^itlvthe Mfual cere-
monieihi lie ncxi^'uiiy (ne Captain appointed Mr.
Charle«CleK, a ttxing i||n, jib adt ip the room of
Mr. Hicks.
Wc now every day drew nearer our defired haven ;
but what m(ift ba the condition of our once good ftiip,
the Endeavour, nuy eafil^ be imagined, from a flight
recollection of the hardflups (be had furmounted, and
the dangers Ihe had ptovidentially efcaped, At this
time our rigging and lails were fo weather-beaten,
that every day fomething was giving way. However,
we held on our courfe, without any material occur-
rence that might endanger our fafety, till Monday the
joth of June, when, toourgreatjoy, Nicholas Young,
the boy »hu iirft difcovcred New Zealand, called out
land from the maft head, which proved to be the Li-
zard. The next day, being Tucfdtiy, the eleventh, we
proceeded up the channel. On Wcdncfday the lath,
with the pleafing hopes of feeing our relatives and
friends, exciting fenfatjons not to be defcribcd by the
pen of the moft able writer, wc paflcd Bcachy Head.
At noon, to our incxprcfliblc ioy we were a-brealt of
Dover; and about three o'cIock. P. M. we came to an
anchor in the Downs. When we landed at Deal, our
fliip's company indulged freely that mirth, and fociablc
jollity, common to all Englifh failors upon their return
from a long voyage, who as readily forget hardfliips
and dangers, as with alacrity and bravery they en-
counter tnem.
We cannot clofc this book without joining in that
oetieral cenfurc, which has been juftly beftowe^ on Dr.
Hawkefw^rtfl, the late compiler of a former adcount of
this voyage of the Endeavour. An infidel may imbibe
what deiftical chimeras may be bcft adapted to the
glo6m]| temper of his mind; but we Catinot but thii^
him highly Culpable in, forcing them iftto a ^VO!;-k •f
this ktnd; foi' though it may be faid, that. With riefpedt'
to efficient and final caufes, the opinion of a general'
and particular Providence will form one and the fame
concjufion, yet we think it is, of great comfort to all
men, particularly to thofe who can trace the svohders,
of an almighty hand in the de
the commahd of the AdVenture. 'Ilie RcToluttpt^ had'
onehurtdrei ahd twelve hahds on board^ oltke^s. in-
.luded.: inidthi Advchturecidwy-one. lii the former,
fames Cook Wis captain, Rdbcft P. Cooper,^ Plvles
Clerk, and Richard Pickcrfcill, were appointed lieu-
tinanti'. /tofejih dilbert was, maften Japict Grey,
boatTwairi; Tames Wallis, carpenter; Robert Anderfon,
.^iinneri and j[iines Patten, (ui^eoii. JohnEdgCi mbe
\\a»lieutenartt of t!ie marines; under whoni weir one
(cncant, tw^p corporals, one drumraes and fifteen pri.
vatcs. The Ve ft of she ere w conlifted. of three maftqr's
mates, fix midfliipmcn, two fu^eon*s nwtes. onecap'
tain's clerk, one matter at :kr^s, one coiporal, one
Hriuourer, his inate, one fail-maker, hii nutr», three
boatfwam's mates, carpentet^s three, gunner^s two, four
carpenter's creW, one cook, his ^te, fix quartet ipaftipre,
and forty-Hi/i iUe feamen. In the Adventure, Tobias
furneaux waicapuin, Jofeph Sti^ntc, and Arthur Ifl^mpe,
lieutenants- Pttcr Fannin wa«. appointed naltc^ Bd-
\vardJohnsboatfWain,WilliimOnardcarpenter, Andrew
Gloag }i;unner, Thonus Andrews furgeon: ofmafier's
mate?, midfhipmen, &c. as above, the number was
twcnty-cighr, and thirty-three able-bodied feamcn.
James Scott was lieiitcnant of the marines, under wholh
con>ma;id were one f? rjeaot, one corpoal, one drum«
n^sr, and eight pcivatcs.
The two fhips were ordered to be got |n readine(«
with th^ utniolt expedition, artd both the Navy and
Vifluallii^ boards paid aii uncommon a^cn^ion to their
equipment 1 even the firfi: lord, of thie. Admiialty vificcd
them from time tq time ; in cofi(equenre of which
they were not rcfiraincd.by ordinary cAablithmcnts,
every extn^ article thought necellary being allowed, in
order that they m|a|u he fiued completely... and in every
rc^e4 to the fatisni^i^i) of thofe who were to embark
in them. Indeed. C>pl. Conk failed with greater ad«^
vantages in this expedition, than any of bis predcccfibrs .
who had gone out before on diiiLpveries ) and wc may ,
venture to fay, no future commander will ever have at
commi|Iioaof a raorelibcral kind, i>or he furnilhtd
with a greater profufion of the very bell fUves and 9^9- >
vi^s^ He had thcj^amc of a veiTcl of tmxmy ton>i,,
oneiprofch fhip, to fcrvp ocCafioiu^lly,; or ^pon an\-
emergcocy, as tenders: he had po bniniiiQjing-neis,,
lines aqd hooks ot every kind; h^ wasfup^icd with,
innum/crahlc articles of fn^a^l value-, adapird to th^,
comtncrce of the tropical iflandi: .be had on board,
additional doathing fur the (camen, particularly fuii^.
to a cold climate, to all which were added th« boit in-,
firumoip ibr afironomical and nautical obfcrvafions -. >
in which were included four timepieces on Mr. Hai-;
riibn's principles, conftrudled by Mcfl*. Arnold and
Kendal. And that nothing might be wanting to pro>
cure information, and that (;ould tend to the uicccfa of.
the voyage, a landfcape painter, Mr. William Hodges,
was engaffcd for this inuxutant undertaking, accom-
panied bji Mr- (now D|^) John Reinhold Foficrand Son,
who wi;r^ ^housht the moH proper perfpns fpf the line.'
of Natur3|!( Hifrory, to which they were appointed with)
parliameittarr encouragement. Mr. William Wales
i and Mr. William Bailey, were iikewife engaged to make
j aftronomicai obfervations t the former being placed by
the board of kuigitude, in tho Refolution, and Mr.
Bailey
COOK't SECON D VOYAGE— for making Difcovcrie* in the Sou/i Seat tx. Round the ll^orM. 1 09
Bt^ey in the Advenone. Nor muft we omit to tncn-
llon the number of medal* ftruck by ordrr of the Lordi
of the Admimtty, and intended to be ieft both ai
pretent* and tclUmoniei in new difcovered coun>
trlet.
The two diipi were vt^alled and provided with all
manner of neceflariei for a three year* voyage j among
ivhich wci« the following extra articles : i . Malt, lor
fweet wort, clcfigned for thofe whofe habit of body
might engender the fcuryy, and as a remedy for fucn
who might be alflldcd with that difordcr. The quan-
tity prelcribed for each patient, from one to fix pints a
day, at thedifcrction of the furgeon. 2. SourKrout,
of which each fcaman was to be allowed two pounds a
week. This is cabbage faltcd down, and dole packed
in caiks, after having been properly fermented. It is
cl^ccrncd by our navigators an excellent antifcorbutic.
3. Cabh.igc cut fmall and failed down, to which is
added juniper berries, and annifccds, which arc liko
wifc put to the four krout. 4. Portable foup, very
notirilhin<:;, and of great utility both for invalids, and
thofc that -tre in good health. 5. Oranges, rob of le-
mons, and faloup, for the ufc of the lurgcons, to be
adniiniftcicd to the fick and fcorbutic only. 6. Mar-
m:\Ia(tc (if Carrots, rcconinirnded by Baron iStorch of
llerlin, as a vt^ry great antifcorbutic t but it did not
as luch anfwcr our cxpcttbtion. I'his fyrup is ex-
tradccl from yellow carrots, by evaporating the finer
part!), till it is brought to a confillcncc oi treacle,
which it much refcmblcs both in tade and colour.
7. Juice of wort and beer, infpiflatcd, as the foregoing
article, and intended to fupply at times the place of
beer, by mixing it with water. For this we were in-
debted to Mr. I'clhim, Secretary of the Viftualling-
offitei the comniiffioners of which ordered thirty-one
half barrels of this juice to be prepared for trial j nine-
teen whereof were (lowed in the Kcfolution, and twelve
on bj«rd the Adventure, 'llius all the conveniences
necefliiry for the ;prefcrvation of health during a long
voyage, were provided in abundance 1 and even fome
alterations were nude in the cuftomary articles of pro-
vifionsi wheat being fubftitutcd in the room of «
quantity of oatmeal, and fugar indead of oil.
A propofed voyage attended with fuch extraordinary
preparations, patronized by parliament, as well as roval
bounty, and the execution of which being fupcrintended
by the firft officers of the adminilty, the navy, and by
Capt. Cook himfelf. we do not hclitatc to pronounce
one of the mod important that w as ever perlbrmed iu
any age, or by any country j and we may alfo with truth
alTert, that the aole navigator made choice of by his
majeliy, was equal to the talk in which he was embark-
ed. Every thinking pcrfon cannot but admire his (kill,
his fortitude, his care of his men, his vigilance in at-
|tending to the minuted intimations of former r.ivi^a-
tors, his perfevcrance ainidH the dangors and hardlhi{>s
of rigorous fcafons, his prowefs in leading his com-
pany jud fo far as the<- were capable of proceeding ; in
thort, his condud throughout, which, while he kept
every man fingly in (Irid obedience to his duty, he
conciliated theaffedions of all, and I'ecurcd their elleem.
The Hiflory of his Second Voyage, which we arc now
about to fubmit to the judgement of our numerous Sub-
fcribcrs, will, we are perfuaded, confirm the truth of
this opinion ; and we are happy in having received their
unanimous approbation of the maps, chart;, portraits,
and views, wnich have been hitherto introduced, and
which are all engraved froiA the originals by our mod
eminent artids. We hope for a continuance of their
good opinion, which, in the execution of this v» ork, wc
mall endeavour by all laudable means to merit and pre-
ferve.
=Stl
BO O K IL
CHAP. I.
Sbf Endfozctir Uthcs her dftariiire frm Dfpt/orJ—^Toucbts at the Ifland of St. yaro, m of the Cape de f^erJt-^Purfuei
her voyage to the Cape of Good Hope— Account oftranfallimu there , and incidents that happened in her pajfage — Her de-
parture frm the Cape— Continues her voyage infeatcb rf a Southern Continent— Sequel of this /earcb, betxcern tlje
tiundian oft It Cape of Good Hope and that of New Zealaiid— Separation
veniently purchafe.
The Madeira, or Madera iflandi are only three in
number; namely, Madeira, properly fo called 1 the
ifland of Puerto, or Porto Santo ; and Ifla Deferta, or
the Dcfolate Iflc. They are fitnatcd to the N. of
the Salvages, and in the Atlantic ocean, between thirty-
two and thirty-three deg. and feventccn and eighteen
dcj- W. longitude, two hundred and fifty miles N. by
E. fron) Tcncriff, three hundred and fixty from Catie
Cantin on the coafl of Africa, and three hundred N.
of the illand of larro. They were thus named from
the principal of them, which was called by the Portu-
piezc Madeira, tignifying a wood or forefl, from ^t«
being overgrow n w jth trees. They were tirft difcovered
by an Englifli gentleman, and manv years after by the
Ponu^clc ! and as there is fometning extremely (in-
gular in both thefe occurrences, but more particularly
the firtt, we^thall, for the entertainment of our rea-
ders, relate the circumflances attending it.
In the reign of Edward III. king of England, a
young gentleman, named Robert Machin, conceived
a violent paflion for Ann D'Arfet. a beautiful and ac-
compliflicd lady of a noble family. Machin. with re-
(\>cH CO birth and fortune, was inferior to the lady ;
but his perfonal qualifications overcame every fcruple
on that account. :ind the rewarded his attachment with
a reciprocal afl^edion. Their friends, however, beheld
the young gentleman in a different light ; they fancied
their blood would be contaminated by an alliance w ith
one of a lower rank, and therefore determined tofacri-
fice the happinefs of the young lady, to the hereditary
pride of blood, and theirown mercenary and interefted
motives. In confequence of thefe ideas, a warrant
was procured from the king, under the fandion of
which Machin was apprehended, and kept in clofe
confinement, till the objc rofe colou|-: here ateaUbdie niaflic
an4
CC#01 t S R('ON f i VOY AG B—for making Dijitvtriti in th« Stuth Stmi fc Round th« IfVA/. 1 1 j
is com*
eight, cx-
wnich, on
ith vinc-
incrchants
ntlcr the
rate than
fertile in
ndalmod
ood rivers,
hint to
leira from
incrcafc of
foil.
I, pcachcs».
Its ; with
ions (vLC.
:tion : and
tmeats of
eel in pre-
narmaladc
•fc of Ge-
ld has the
the fiift
feton foot,
•fterwai-dft
extremely.
Hand were
:cad, that
of Lord
by Pro,
[ants of the
trait, tall,
__ of th«
dbe nu(li«
an4
and n'liii-iU igoi' tiwi i and bWWtrs iiuit-trcc* rheic yn I
• variety of ■•»>■,: urn, which are common btJth to
Furo^ and Afru.t. The evertallinft-Howcr it a (treat
curioCity i for when It » uluckcd it caimot \k perceived
to fiide I it Rfowa like hmc, flawem like camonille, and
always appcan frcfli and bbpr^inv. Vinca atr in
abundance I and from the gra^M's which they produce
• vi^ quarwity of the nwft tkliikHu winei arc made.
Indeed tlw foil i« To well adapted tor the cultivation of
vinei, that the ffrapc* exceed the leaves in number, and
fome of the bunches are futcrn jt eighteen inches in
length. Here are fevcral forts of thel'e wine* ; one is
pf the colour of champagne, but is not much valued:
another fort is a white wine, much Dronger than the
former. A third fort is excellent, and refcinble» malm-
fy, it beinu of the fame nature with that which grows
in TcncrilF : and another rcfembles Alicaiu wine, but
is much inferior to it in talte, and is never drank alone,
but mixed with the other forts, to which it gives a
colour and llrangth to keep. It is obfervabic nf the
Madeira wiiils, that they are greatly improved by the
heat of the fun, when cxpoTed to it in the barrel, after
the bung is taken out. In the whole iflaml they an.
nuallv make about twenty-eight thoufand pipes, eight
thoufand of which are drank there, and the rel> export-
ed, the greateil part being fent to the Weft-lndic».
The wines that arc liraugnt direClly to tjigland, are
not equal in goodnefs to uich as are firft carried to the
\Veft'lBdicsi and thei/ Havour is exceedingly hcieh
encd, if they remain fmne time in Barbaaacs. Tlv
praduift ai each vineyard is ufually divided cqua!i)
between the proprietor, and the pcrfon who gathert
and prcfl'cs tne grapes ; it commonly happens, how.
ever, that while mt merchant is rich, the gatherer is poor.
The people here trade among themfclves, or barter.
. The principal town in the whole ifland is Fonchal, or
Funchiale, and is fcated in the fouth part of the
ifland at the bottom of a large bay, in bititudc 31 de^.
33 min. ')4 fee. N. and in 1 7 dcg. 1 3 min. W. longi-
tude. We deduced the longitude from lunar obfcrva-
tions, and Mr. Wales reduced the fame for the town by
Mr. Kendal's watch, which makes the kMgitude of
Fimchiale, 17 deg. 10 min. 14 fee. W. Towaida the
fca it is fonilicd by a high wall, with a battery of can.
non, betides a ca
fome Englith proteftants, and a prodigious num^vr of
negroes and mulattoes, both freemen and flaves. ''."■■".
ftrocts arc ftraight. and drawn by a line, anu . /
fcoufes are puBtty well built 1 their ohurch« are well-
built beautiful Urudures, enriched with gilding, fine
pi<3ures, and plate, and people arefaid to mert m (hem
■pan buiincfs that has little relation to dc^ . .«n.
Thofc women who have no domefVir ■ .tipeU, never
{»» church bat on Sundays md ol.days; when, if
inerc be teveral daughters, they walk two and two
before the mother, each having a large thin vail over
her face ; butsheir biwft, and ihoulden vHt quite b«re.
^ their tide walks » venerable old man, Wifh a flrinc|
ofheada in hiii hand, tind anMd with afword and dM-
ger. Thia town is the 'fee of a bithop, ,who hu the
wholcjnandimderhisfpiriti»liorifdi^ion.and iafiif-
fragan to the artlhblihop df iLilbon. The covtrtvr of
the iOand sNb ralides here.
In the Uand are two other towns 1 one called Man-
•5*"' *hfcii has a church named Santa C™«, or the
>Mf CroA, and a convent of Bemardine-frian 1 the
o*er town 11 named Moncertto. In fhort, the iOimd
toly cemainedthirty-flx parithtt. a eollege, and a mo-
awcry of jefuiia, Ave other rooitafterica, eighty-two
• No. tj. ..-^.. .• 1 ,-.
hcmiitaccs, and five hoTpitals. There are feveral fine
feaia and callles about the country, in which the mer>
chants chicAy rtlide.
The ordinary fond of the poorer people, in the time
of vintage, is little rife than bread ami rich grapes 1 and
were it not for their abftcmiiHirnrfs. fever* in the hot
feafons would be frequent 1 hrrcfnre even the rich, in
the hot months, are very ninderate in their diet and
drinking. Ilie generality of the people »9iei\ great
gravity in their deportment, and ufually drefs in bbck 1
•It they cannot difpenfe with the fpado ami (higgcr,
which even fervants wear 1 fo that yiMi may fee a fimt-
inan waiting at table with a fvord ni leaf) a yard
long, and a arrat balkct hilt to it. The houfes iit
geiK-ral are plain, as the inhabitants put themfilvrs at
no great expence in ftimilliing them. The windows
arc I'ecured by wooden lliutters nt night, and inOcad of
beiiij; (I'.lnxed, are latticed. With rcfpeCt to their piar-
riai^ci, arteClion is never conlidered, the principal en-
quities are into family deftent and circumftaarcs 1 the
women arc pnihibitcd from marrying Englillimcn. nr-
lefs the latter confcnt to einbrare the Roma;i cathtlic
religion. Murders are very frequent, on account of
the great numbers of places deemed fan«ihiarics, and
the cafe with which a murderer can thereby fcrecnhim-
felf from julHcc. But if the criminal is taken before
he can reach the fanrtuaiy, the puniHiment is only
either baiiirtiinci.i or iinprifonmcnt, both which, by a
pecuniary comp' .cion, may be evaded.
Here arc a grc .t number of clergy, who arc gcnerali)r
ri< h; but nine who arc defccnded from Moors or Jew*
are arJmitt.;'' to take orders. The churches are made
rcf. 'itorie for the dead, and the corpfe is curioufly
drcfTcd and adorned: yet in i» interment, (\oreof lime
is ufed, i order tc mfunir the body as fpccdily at
pofFble, which ufu ' ' happens in a fortnight 1 fo that
there is then ro«"" .,» anotner corpfc. The bodies of
protcftanti are it allowed to be nuricd, but mutt be
throw intr the tea 1 neverth' '"■ they are oermitted to
be int nt '. .n confecrated grc/.. .'., providcti a handfome
(urn "f m< "ly is paid to the clergy.
Pii.-rto Santo is generally tenricd one r ' &.. Madeirik
idands, and lies to the north-eaft of Miu .i.iv, jn 3i
dcg. 30 min. N. latitude, and in 16 deg. 5 min. W^
longitude from London, and is only about 1 j miles in
circumference. It was difcovered in the year 141 2, b»
two Pbrtuguefe gentlemen, one of whom was Eton Juan
Gonft"' >>, fent by prince Henry, fon to John I. king of
Portugal, to double Cape Bajador, in order to mako
farther difcoveries i but being furprifcd by a violent
ftorm, were driven out to lea, and, when they gave
themfelves over for loll, had the happinefs to find thia
idand, which proving a fafe afylum to them, they called,
it Puerto Santo, or the Holy Port.
This ifland produces wheat and other com, juft fulfil
cient for the lupport of the inhabitants : here aHb are
plenty of oxen, wild hogs, and a vatl number of rabbits.
There arc trees which produce the gum called dragon's
blood, and likewifc a little honey and wax, which arc
extremely good. It has properly no harbour, but thc^
is good mooring in the road, which affords a convenient
retreat for (hips going to Africa, or coming from the
Indies 1 fo that merchantmen often ftop there, which
affords confiderable profit .to the inhabitants, %ha arc
defcended from the Portuguefe, to whqm the ifland
is fut^edi. The inhabitants are all Roman cathoiicks,
'being under the fpiritual jurifdiiftion ocf the biffiop of
^mami in Madeira. They would live a very quiet
■ life, were' it not for the pirates, who often pay mem
troublefome vifits. In the year 161 7, they landed here,
and carried off fix hundred and fixty-three prifonen,
befides plundering the place.
There is a little ifland called the De&rt, which t«p9.
ducea only orchilla-weed, and fonve goats are on
lies on the eaft-fide of Madeira, at about fix lea^,.. s
difhuice.
On Saturday the ift of AugulV, havjng (lowed on.
board a fupply of water, wine, and othef necetTaries,
we fet fail, ioH fight of Madeira, and flood to the
3 F fouthwart).
m
■\'k
'
Il*
Capt. COOK 'a VOYAGES COMPLETE.
i; 1 1
fouthward, with a gentle gale at N. E. On Tucrday
the 4th, we faw the pleafant ifland of Palma, bearing
S. S. W. diftant about three or fbUr leagues. Thii it
one of the Canary iflea. It may be feeh, on account of
its height, twelve or fourteen leagues at fea, and lies in
latituM 38deg. i8 min. N. and in 17 deg. 58 min. W.
longitude. (^ WcdncTday, the 5th, we paflcd the ille
of Ferro, at the diftance of fourteen leagues.
The ifland of Palma lies about fifty miles to the W.
of Tencriffe, and two hundred W. of the continent of
Africa. It is about thirty miles long, twenty broad,
and feventy is ciicuit. On the N. E. part of the ifland,
within land, is a high and fpacious mountain, deep on
all fides. This is called La Caldera, or the cauldron,
from a hollow like that on the pike of Tencriffe. The
fummit is about two leagues in circumference, and on
the infidc the cauldron dcfcends gradually from thence
to the bottom, which is a fuace of about thirty acres.
On the declivity of the infidc fpring fcvcral rivulets,
which joining together at the bottom, ifTucin one dream
through a pafl*age to the outfide of the mountain from
which this brook defccnds ; and having run fomc dif-
tancc from thence, turns two fugar-mills. The water
of this ftream is unwholefomc, on account of its being
mixed with fome water of a pernicious quality in the
cauldron ; all .the infide of which abounds with her-
bage, and is covered with palms, pitch-pine, laurel,
lignum-rhodium, andrctamas; which laflhave in this
ifknd a yellow bark, and grow to the fizc of large trees ;
but in the others they are only flirubs. The people here
take great care not to let the he-goats feed on the leaves
of the rctama, on account of their b<^cding a Oonc in
the bladder, which is mortal. Two rivulets fpring on
the outfide of the cauldron ; one of thefe runs nonh-
ward to the village of St. Andrew, and turns two fu-
gar-mills, and the other runt to the town of Palmas,
which lies to the eaftward. Thefe arc the only rivu-
lets or dream« of any confequenre in the ifland : on
which account the natives build tanks, or fquare refer-
voirs with planks of pitch-pine, which they make tight
with caulking. Thefe they fill with the torrents of
rain-water that in the winter feafon rufli down from the
mounuins, and preferve it for thcmfclves and cattle:
but the flieep, goats, and h(»t, in places at a diflance
from the rivulets, feed almolt all the year round on the
roots of fern and afphodil, and therefore have little or
no need of water, there bemg moiflure enough in thofe
roots to fupply the want of that element. "Hiough the
Ibuth quarter of the ifland is moll deftitute of water,
yet there is a medicinal well of hot water fo clofc to the
fca-fliorc, that the tide flows into it at full fea.
At Uguer is a cave, that has a long narrow entrance,
fo tlraignt that people pafs through it backwards, with
their face to the moutn of the cave ; but after they
have got through this paflage, thev enter a fpacious
grotto, where water diflils from octween the laige
Hakes of flate ftones that hang from the roof: the
lead blow given to thefe, refoundt with a noife like
thunder through the cave. In the diftricfl of Tifuya is
a mountain, wnich appears to have been removed by an
earthquake from iu original fituation. The natives
have a tradition, that the loot on which it now (lands
was a plain, and the molt fertile fpot in the whole
ifland, till it was deflroyed bv the burning lava/ and
the fall of the mounuin. Indeed, the cflTeds of vol-
canos arc to be feen in almod every part of the ifland t
for the channels where the burning matter, melted ores,
and calcined ftones and aflics ran, may be cafily dif-
tinguiflied by a curious obferver. Nunno de Pcnna, in
his Hiftorical Memoirs, relaus, that on the 13th of
November xf>^^, a little after fun-fct, the earth fhook
for thirteen leamies with a dreadful noifc, that conti-
nued five days, during which it opened in fcvcral places ;
but the greatcftgap was upon the mountain of ta Cal- Q
dcra, a mile and a half from the fea, from whence pro-
ceeded aercat fire, which cafl up (tones and pieces of
rock. Tne like happened in feveral places thcitabouu,
and 'in Icfs than a quarter of an hour were twenty-
right gaiM about the foot of the mounuin, which caft
forth abundance of flames and burning ftones. The
fame perfon adds, that on the 10th of November fol-
lowing, there was a fecond eruption of the fame mount,
from whence came forth ftones and fire, with great
earthquakes and thunders for feveral days, fo that black
cinders were taken up at fcven leasues diftance : the
adjacent ground was entirely wafted, and the inhabi-
tants forced to quit their dwellings. The lafl volcano
that happened in this ifland wu in 1750, when one of
thefe rivers of fire ran, with great rapidity, from the
mounuins towards the town of Pklmas, and difcharged
itfelf about a mile to the northward of the town, out
we have not learnt that any confiderable eruption hath
happened fince that time. <
If we take a view of Palma at the diftance of three
leagues oHT at fea, the mountains feem full of gutters
or beds formed by torrents of rain water ; but thefe
only appear little from their height and diftance ; for
we find them to be large vallies, abounding with woods,
on a nearer approach. In many places on the Ihoreof
this and the other iflands, is found the black (hining
fand ufcd to throw upon writing, to prevent its blotting.
It appears to have been caft out of volcanos, for the
load hone, when held near it, will draw up every grain
of it.
The air, weather, and winds arc nearly the fame as
at Teneriff and Canaria, except that the wefterly winds
and rain arc more frequent at Palma, on account of
its lying more to the weftward and northward, and on
that account is not fo far within the verge of the N.
E. trade winds as thofe iflands > whence it is particu-
larly expofcd to the S. wind, which moftly prevails in
the latitudes adjacent to thofe of the N. E. trade-windv
as well as to variable winds from other quarters.
The climate here, and in Tenerifl!e, Canaria, and
Goincra, differs greatly, according as a perfon lives in
the mountains, or near the fea flwrc. Ehiring a calm,
the heat feems almoft intolerable near the fhorc, in the
months of July, Auguft and September ; but the air
is at the fame time quite frefh and pleafant on the
mounuins. In the middle of winter the houfea upon
thefe, fomc of which are near the ckiuds, muft be cx>
tremely cold, and the natives keep fires burning ia
their habiutions all day long 1 but this is far from be-
ing the cafe near the fea, where "Sey ufe fires only in
their kitchens. The fummiu of all the Canary ifles,
except Lancerou and Fuerteventura, are generally co<
vered with fnow for eight months in the year. The
fummit of Palma formerly abounded with trees, buts
great drought in 1 54$ deftroyed them all ; and though
others began to fpring up fome time after, they were
deftroyed by the rabbits and other animals, which find-
ing no pafture below, went up there, and deftroyed all
the young fhrubs and trees, lb that the upper part of
the ifland is at prefent quite bare and dcfolate. Before
the trees and fhrubs were deftroyed, a great deal of
manna fell there, which the natives gathered and fenc
to Spain. The rabbits were firft brought to Palma by
Don Pedro Fernandez de Lago, the Icvned lieutenant-
general of Tencriffe, and have fincc encreafcd in a fur-
prifing manner.
Pahna affords nearly the fame produdiont as Ca-
naria, but a great quantity of fugar is made here, par-
ticularly on the S. W. fide of the ifland. The princi-
pal port is called by the fame name, and is fituatcd on
the routh fide of the ifland. The road is about a quar-
ter of a mile from the fhore, where veflels generally
ride in fifteen or twenty fathoms water s and with good
anchors and cables, notwithfbnding the cafteriy winds,
tlicy may ride with great fafetv in all the winds that
blow in this part of the world. The town is large,
containing two parifh churches, feveral convenu, with
many private building], though they arc neither fa
good nor fo large as thofe in the city of Palnus in Ca-
naria, or of the towns in TenerilTe. Near the mde ia
a caftle or battrry, mounted with fome pieces of can*
non, for the defence of the fliips in the bay, and to pre-J
vent the landins of ati enemy. There are no other
townsof notein Talmai but many villages, the chief
of which is called St. Andrew, where uicre are four
engines for the nuking of fugar; but the laQd hcre-
abouik
Mtadki
COOK'S SECOND VOYAOE-*for fnaking biJMirki in the Stuth Seas & Round the fTor/Ji 1 1 5
abouU is very poor, (a that the inhabiunts are run>l>ctl
from the idand of TpnciiiTt w'.th grain and other rte-
ccflary articles.
For the amufement of uninformed reac«rs, wethall
here add an account of the ifland of Ferroi and alfo a
particulardefcription of theprefent natives of the iflanda
of Canaria, TcnerifTc, Pialma. Gomera. andFerro; their
pcrfons. habit, diet, buildings, manners, cuHoms, &c.
The Spaniards call the ifland of Fcrro, Hierro, and
the French the ifle de Fer, or the ifland of Iron : it is
the mod weflcrly of all the Canaries, and is about
thirty miles loim, fifteen broad, and fcventy-fivc in
circumference. The French navi^tors formerly placed
in the center of this ifland their firft meridian for
reckoning the longitude, as the Dutch did theirs at the
pike of Tcncrifte ; but at prefent moft geographers
reckon their fird meridian from the capital of their
own country, as the Englilh from London, the French
from Paris, &c. It bcmg more convenient, and con«
veying a more diftindt idea to fay. that fuch a place
is fo many leagues diflant E. or W. from the capital
of his own country, than to reckon the longitude from
a diftant land.
This ifland of Fcrro rifcs on all fides ftccp and craggy
from the fca-ftjore above a league, fo as to render the
afcent extremely difficult and fatiguing ; but after tra-
velling thus far, the reft of the ifland will be found to
be tolerably level and fruitful, abounding with many
kinds of trees and (hrubs, and producing better grafs,
herbs, and flowers, than any of the other iflands, whence
bees thrive and multiply here in a very extraordinary
manner, and excellent honey is made by them. There
arc but few fpringo in the whole ifland ; and on account
of the fcarcity of water, the (Iieep, goats, and fwine,
do not drink in fummer, but quench their thirfc at that
feafon, by digging up and chewing the rrou of fern.
The great cattle are watered at a place where water
diftils from the leaves of a tree. Many authors have
made mention of this tree, fome of whom reprefent it
as miraculous ; while others deny its very exiftence :
but the author of the hiftorv of the Difcovcry and
Conqueft of the Canary Iflands, gives a particular ac<
count of it, which we fluU here infert for the fadsfac-
tion of the curious.
In the cliff or flcep rocky afcent by which the whole
ifland is furrounded, is a narrow gutter which com-
mences at the fea, and is continued to the fummitof the
clilf, where it joins, or coincides, with a valley termi-
nated by the ftecp front of a rock, on the top of which
grows a tree called in the language of the anticnt inha-
bitants garie, or facred, which for nuiny years has been
Srefeived entire, found, and frefh. Its leaves con-
antly diftil fo great a quantity of water, that it is fuf-
ficicnt to furntfh drink to every living creature in
Hierro, nature having provided this remedy for the
drought of the ifland. It is diRind from other trees,
and ftands by itfelf : iu trunk is about twelve fpans in
circumference ; its height from the ground to the top
of the higheft branch is forty fpans, and the circum-
ference ot all the branches t<^ether is one hundred
and twenty feet. The branches are thick and extend-
ed, and the loweft begin about the height of an eU from
die eround. Its fruit refembles an aconi, but taftes
like the kernel of a pine apple, only it is Ibfter, and
niore aromatic ; and the leaves refemUe thoTe of the
laurel, but are larger, wider, and more curved. Thefe
come forth in a perpetual fucceflion, whence the tree
always remains green. Near it grows a thorn, which
fallens on man)r of in branches, with which it is in-
terwoven, and Ibme beech trees, brefos. and thorns,
are at a fmall diflancc from it. On the north fid« of
the trunk are two large tanks or ciftems of rou^ ftone,
or rather one ciftcm divided ; each half beiiw twenty
feet fquare, and fixtecn fpans deep. One of thefe con-
uins water for the drinking ot the inhabitauu, and
the other that which they ufe for their cattle, wafliinK.
and the like purpoTes.'
A cloud or mift riib from the fea every morning,
which the fouth and callcriy winds force againft the
•bovc-mentioncd fteep cliff, when the cloud having
no vent but by the gutter, gradually afccnds it, and ad-
vances flowly from thence to the extremity of the val-
ley, and then refls upon the wide-fpreading branches of
the tree, from whence it diftils in drops during the re-
mainder of the day, in the fame manner as w »:cr drips
from the leaves of^ trees after a heavy fliowcr of rain.
This diftillation is not peculiar to the tree, for the
brefos which grow near it alfo drop water ; but their
leaves being only ttw and narrow, the quantity is fo
trifling, that though the natives fave fome of it, yet
they nuke little account of an^ but what diftils froni
the tree j which, together with the water of fome
fprings, is fufficient to ferve the natives and their cat.*
tie. It has been remarked, that this tree yields moft
water in thofe years when the cafterly winds have mofl
prevailed ; for by them alone the clouds or mifts are
drawn hither from the fea. A perfon lives near the
fpot on which the tree grows, who is appointed by
the council to take care of it and its water, and is al-
lowed a certain falary, with a houfc to live in. He
daily diftributes to each family of the diftrid feven
vefTels filled with water, bcfidcs what he gives to the
principal perfons of the ifland.
Mr. Glafs fays, he is unable to determine whether
the tree which yields water at prefent be the fame here
defcribed, but juftly obfervcs, that it is probable there
have been a fucceflion of them. He himfclf did not-
fee this tree, for this is the only ifland of all the Ca'-
naries which he did not vifit ; but he obkrvcs, that he
has failed with the natives of Hierro, who, when quef-
tioned about the exiftence of this tree, anfwcred in the
affirmative; and takes notice, that trees yielding wa-
ter are not peculiar to this ifland, fince one of the fame
kind in the ifland of Sc. Thomas, in the gulfof Guincy,
is mentioned by fome travellers.
By reafon of a fcarcity of water, the foil, in fome
parts of this ifland, is very barren ; but in others it is
fertile, and produces all the necclTary articles for the
fupport of the inhabitants. The fhcep, goats, and
hogs, that are brought up in thofe parts difiant from the
rivulets, feed almoft all the year round on the roots of
fern and afphodil, and therefore have little occafion for
water, as the want of that element is fupplied by the
great moifhire that is naturally in thofe roots.
There is only one finall town in this ifland, and the
moft diftinguilhed building in it is a parifli church.
Many fmallvillagcs are difperfed about the town, but
there are not any of them that deferve a particular de-
fcription.
Small cattle, brandy, honey, and orchilla weed, are
the chief articles of the trade carried on by the inhabi-
tants of this ifland.
As to the original natives of the ifland of Ferro, we
are told by travellers, that before it was rendered' fub-
jed to Spaiii they were of a middle ftature, and cloathed
with the fkint of^bcafts. The men wore a cloak of three
flieep-fkins fewed together, with the woolly fide out-
wards in fummer, and next their bodies in winter.
Tlie women alfo wore the fame kind of cloak, befidea
which thc^ had a petticoat, which reached down to the
middle of^ their legs. They fewed their fkins widi
thongs cut as fine as thread, and for needles ufed fmall
bones (harpencd. They wore nothing on their heads,
and their long hair was made up into a number of fmall
plaitt. They had Oioes nude of the raw fltint of fheep,
iMjgs, or goau. Thefe people had a grave turn of
mind, for all their longs were on ferioiis fubjeds, and
fet to flow i^intive tunes, to which they danced in a
rii^ joining hands, and lometimes jumping up in
Kirs, fo regularly that they feciiKd to be united; they
II piadife in Ferro this manner of dancing. Their *
dwellings confifted of circular inclofures, formed by a
fUme wSl without cement, each having one narrow en-
trance. On the infide they placed poles or fpars againft
the wall, one end rcfting on the top, and the other ex-
tending a coofiderable diftancc to the ground ; and
thefe they covered with fern, or blanches of trees.
Each of thefe inck>fuj-es contained about twenty fami-
lies. A bundle of fern, with goat-fltin fpread over it.
iecved thqn for a. bed, and for bcd-cloaths and covcr-r
ings
IV
ii6
Cipt. COOK'i VOYAGES COMPLETE.
n
i
-t
im ^
in^ they ufcd drcflcd seiaC flcini to keep them warm.
Bctore they offiercd the breaft to a new-born child, they
gave it fern roots roafted, bruifed, and mixed with but-
ter; andarprefcntthe^givethemflourand barley-meal
roailed, ana mixed with bniilcd chee(c.
The nativei ufiially bake the fleih of Ihcep, goats,
and hogsi and as they had no kind of grain, their bread
was made of fern roots, of which, with milk and but-
ler, the principal part of their diet was compofcd.
One king governed them all ; and having never any
occalion to go to war, had no warlike weapons: they
indeed carried long Ifaivcs i but thefe were only to aflift
them in travelling i for the country being fe rocky, as
to make it necefFary frequently to leap from one
ftone to another, this they performed by means of thefe
poles.
Polygamy was not allowed ; but they had no redric-
tions with refpeifl to their marriages, except a man's
not being allowed to marry his mother or Itdcri for
every man misht uke the woman he liked belt, and
whole confent nc could obtain, without the lead regard
to rank or nobility. Indeed all, except the king, were
in this rcfpcd tipon an equality: the only difhiK^n
amona them connftcd in the number of their ik>cks. It
was ufual for the man, when he chofe a wife, to make a
prefent of cattle to her father, according to his ability,
m return for the favour of letting him have his daugh-
ter. The king received no particular tribute from his
fubje<5iS| and every one made him a prefent of cattle;
for they were not obliged to give him any thing, but ac-
cording to their plcaforc or circumflances. At a fcaft,
they killed one or two fat lambs, accoiding to the num-
ber of their gucfts : thefe they placed in a veflcl on
the ground, fitting round it in a circle, and never rifing
till they had eaten the whole. Thefe feafts are flill
continued among their defccndants. If a perfon icll
lick, they rubbed his body all over with butcer and
(hcep's marrow, covering him well up to keep him warmi
but when a nun happened to be wounded, they burned
the part affeded, and afterwards anointMl it with but-
ter. They buried their dead in caves ; artd if the de-
ccafcd was a man of wealth, they interred him in his
tfloaths, and pat a board at his feet, and the pote he
ufcd to travel with at his tide; and, in order to pre-
vent his being devoured by ravens, they clofed the
mouth of the cave with fl^nes.
. Murder and theft were the only crimes for which
they inHicted corporal puniihment. The ntmderer was
put to death in the fame manner as he had killed the
dcctafcd : and the thief, for the lirft oiffence, was pu-
•ilhcd with the lois of one of bis eyes, and lor the fc-
cond, of the other. This was done that ht might not
fee to Ileal any more. The office of executioner on
thefe occalions, wai pe i fann ed by a partfcutar perfon
fct apart for thitt purpole.
\s to their religion, they worfhipped two deities^
(snc of whom was male, the other female ,* the mtrie
was named Eraorancan, ahd #as the ol:geA of ific men's
adoration ; the other, worfhipped by the women, was
called Moncyba. I'hey had no inuwes, or vifible re-
prefcntatinns of thefe deities ; nor did they ever facri-
fice to them, but only prayed to them fn their nccef-
lities, as when tiKy wanted rain to bring nthi graft
for the fubttftence of their cattle. &c. i he natives
pretended, that when the gods were inclined to do
(hem good, they came fo the illand, and flighted on
two great rocks, which are in a place to which they
gave the name of VeHta/ca, whefe they received the
petitions of the peopli', and afterwatds returned to
their cctcftial abode ; thefe rttcks are how called by the
Spaniards Los Antillos die l6s AhfiqiMs, «r the hillsof
^e antients.
We Ihall now give a particular defoription of the
prefent natives ot CSnaria, TenerifTe, Pilma, Gotnera,
and Fcrro, with anaccowttof their'perfent,dfe
ahnoft unintelligible manner, fo that they are fcarcelf
underftoodby fltrai^rs.
The greateft part of the nativa are fmall of (lature.
well mide, and have good featttres j but they ai« more
fwnrthy than the inhabitants of the fouthem ports of
Spain; their eyes, however, are fine, large, and fpark-.
ling, and their countenances exceedingly exprelfivei
but the old people have a very difagreeabie afpei5t'. Peo«
pie of diftindion wore in common a camblet cloak of
a dark red or Mack cel6ur, a Ibien night-cap, bordered
with lace; and :i broad flouched hat. When they
pay vifits, a coat, fword, and white peroke are addetJ,
the latter of which fbrm a very odd contrail to theif
dulky complexions, and what is Hill mote Angular, they
keep their large douched hat upon their heads always
in the houfe ; but when they are out of doors, they
carry them under their arm. Neither do they put on
their perukes, upper coats, or fwords, but when they
walk m proceffion, pay formal vifitt, or gato church,
on high fedivals. The lower clafs of people wear their
own black, bufliy hair, and tuck fome ofit behind the
right ear ; and their principal garment is a white loofe
coat with a friar's cape, and girded round the middle
with a fafli. This garment is long and narrow, and
made of the wool of their own dieep.
Women of inferior rank wear a piece of gauze on
their heads, which falls dowh the Ihoulders. is pinned
under the chin, and covers the neck and bread. A
Eart of their drefs is a broad^irimmed douched hat,
ut they ufe this with mote propriety than the men ; foe
abroad they wear it bpon their heads, whereby their
faces are fcrecned from the fcorchitw beams of the fun.
They throw a mantle over their dioulders, the ^odnefs
of which is in proportion to the condition of the wearer.
Thev wear jackets indead of days, and are all very
fond of s Kteat number of pettkoats. The principal
kidies of Grand Caniria and Tenerifle dtcfi after the
fiidimn of France and England, and pay vifits in cha-
riots J but none walk the dreets without being vailed,
though fome are fo carelefs in the ufe of their vails, that
thejr take care to let their faces and necks be feen. Some
bdies have their hair cMriottdv plaited, and bftened to
the crown of their head with a gold comb, Theif
mantles are very rich, and they wear a profofion ol
jewels ; but they imiet their appearance ridicutous to
drangers, from that chimfihefs or drcTs, andaukward-*
nc6 of gait, which is obfervable in both fexes.
The poorer fort of people are afflided with manjr
toathfomediforclers, atid are naturally verv filthy ; the
gentry, however, affed great dejicKcy. Both fexes go
every morning tohear mals; aha mod of them go be*
fore they take any refreflnnent. Their breakfidl is,
ufually chocolate : they dine at neon : and fhut up the
dbors till three o'clock. People in good cireumfhincea
have four ^ourfiis brouffht to table. The fird dilh con-
fdhoT Ibup niodeef Mef, mutton, pork, bacon, po-
tatoes, turhlps. carrots, onions, and faflron, dewed
Ther, itim thin iKces of biead put into the difh.
fecond courfe confids of riiifted meat, fowls, &c.
The third is the olio, or ingredients cf which the foup
was made. After «rhich, comes the defht, confiding
of fruit and IWeet-M^tB. The company drink iinteiy^
of wine, or wine ahd trater, while at dinner ; but have:
no wirie after the cloth is lemoved. While drinking^
(heir :o«fls ihre much Kke ours. When dmner is over,
a laigc filver difli, filled with water, is fct upon the ta-
ble ; when the whole companV', all at once, *-adi in lt»
and then a fervant, vfko'flanas at 'the lowc<-i(nd of the
table, tfries, " BleflM and pratfed be the mod holy fa-
crament of the altar, and the clear and purt conccptiorf
of the nrioft holy virgin, conceived in grace from the
Slit tnftMt of her MMral exiftence. I^n and gen-
tiemen, rtnich gtJOd may it do you ?" After which,
making a low bSw » the company, he retires. Thcy^
then me. and cadi goes lo his apartment, to tike a nap
for about an heur^'whieh droves a great refirefhment ia
this warm climate. Thofe of higfwr fhrtiMts have ge-
nenillyafrlarlbroneorthenrgfleRs, who we may fup.
pofc is the CMfttiir to fome of the fiimily, and frc-
I^fMuHf baliana wMi graac nukMcfi ; yft neither the
I malkr
COOK'S SECO^^D VOYAGEi-for making Difcoveries in the South Seas & Round the fTor/J. 1 1 7
nufter of the hourc, rtof arty of the tomptUty, chufe
to ukc much notice of it. Mr. Clafi wa» once invited
to dine with a gcndcrtutrt, where a Franc ifcan friar'
made one of the connpany ; but no fooner had they
begun to eat. than the friar aiked him if he wat a chris-
tian? HeanfWcred, that he hoped fo. He was then
defircd to rehcarft the Apoftlc's creid 5 but anfwering,
that he knew nothinc about it, the reverend father ftared
full in his face, and exclaimed, " O thou black afs !"
OtTcndcd at thia piece of ill manners, our author a(kcd,
wiiathe meant by tre:arbary.
Some think their being fubjeA to the itch, is owing tb
their eating fo much a( this lad food. In the fum'mer
feafon ficlh filli is pretty plentiful, but more fcarce and
dear at other times of the yiar.
People of rank here have houfcs two ftorics high,
which are handfomc ri]uare buildings, of ftonc and
mortar, with an open court in the middle like our pub-
lic inns in Kngland. and like them have balconies run-
ning round, voiich are on a level with the floor Of the
feconJ llory. The flrcet-door is placed in the middle
of the front of the houfe, and within that door is a fe-
cond, the fpace between them being the breadth of the
rooms of tnc houfe. The court.yard, which is on the
inlidc, is large or fmall according to the fizc of the
building, and i$ ufually paved with flags, pebbles, or
other ftoncs. In the centre of the court is a fqu;>re or
circular ftoAe-wall about four feet high, flilcd with earth,
which arc ^.ommoniy planted orange, banana, or
m
dthcr trees common in thefe parts. The lower ftory of
each quarter of the houfe confifls entirely of ftore-
f'ooms, or cellars. The flairs leading to the focond
ftory ufually begin at the right or left hand comer of
the entrance of the c^ourt, and confifl of two flights of
fleps, which lead into the gallery, frpm which one
may enter any room on the fecond ftory. The princi-
pal apartments are generally in that quarter of the houfe
facing the ftrect. which contains a hail with an apart-
ment at each end. Thefe rooms are the whole breadth
of the quarter, and the hall is twice the length of any
of the apartments at its extremities. The wmdows of
thefe rooms are formed of wooden lattices, curioufly
wrought J none of them looking inwards to the court ;
but tncy arc all in the outflde wall. Some great houfes
have balconies in the middle of the front, on the out-
tide above the gate, cqtial \t'ith the floor of the fecond
ftory : and fomc have a gallery which runs from one
<;nd of the front to the other, but the outfide of the
houfe has feldom any. They whitc-wafli all the apart-
nunts ; and thofc at the extremities of the great halls.
With fomc of the reft, arc lined with fine mats about
five feet high, and the floor is fomctimes covered with
the fame, 'fhe fides of the windows of ail the rooms
are lined with boards to prevent people's cloaths being
w hitcned ; for they coniiiionly fit in the window, there
being benches. on each fide of it for that purpofc ; and
when the mafter of the houfe intends to fliew a ftrangcr
fvCpeii, he always condudfa^ him to the window, t» con-
virfc with him. The grtat halli and the walUi of fome
of the apartments, anThung with paintings, reprefent-
ing the virgin, the twelve apoftles, faints, and martyrs.
ufually drawn as large as lilt, and diftinguiflied by fomc
ciroiniftance of their Wftory. Thus St. PWer it ufually
reprefented looking at a cock and Weeping, and a gmt
bunch of keys always hangs at hiftglrdle. St. AnAony
preaching to the flfl«M, is one of flfcir fiivourite paint-
uigs. Their beds have feldom any curtaim, for thefe
they confider as receptaclea Sir fleas and bugs, which
No. i^
abound hete extremely. They chiefly ufe matrafles
fprcad on the flbor upon fine matst bcfides the Ihects,
there is a blanket and above that a filk quilt. The
ftieets, pillows, and quilt are frequently fringed or
pinked, like the fliroUds ufed for tlie dead with us.
There is a place, in a particular apartmehti raifed a
ftep higher than the floor, covered with mats or carpets ;
and there the women generally fit together upon cuftii-
ons, both to receive vifits from their own fex, andgive
dircdtions concerning their houftiold aflairs. fhc
houfcs of the peafants and loWcr fort of pcople,though
only one ftory high, are built of ftonc and lime, and the
roofs cither thatilied or tiled. Thefe are generally
neat, clean, and commodious. Indeed there is but
littlcdirtorduftinthefeiflandstomakethemuncleanlyj
for the ground is moftly rocky, and feldom wet, from
the aUnoft continual fine weather.
The deportment of the natives is grave, but at the
fame time tempered with great quicknefs and fenfibi-
lity ; the women, in particular, are remarkable for their
fprightlincfs, and vivacity of their converfation, which
is faid greatly to exceed that of the Englilh, French, or
northern nations. The great families in thefe iflands
would be highly offended fiiould any one tell them, they
arc defcended from the Moors, or even from the an-
cient inhabitants of thefe iflands ; yet it would not per-
haps be difficult to prove, that moft of their cuftoms
have been haitded down to them from thofe people.
The gcntiy boaft much of their birth, and indeed that
they arc defcended from the beft families in Spain, there
is no rea(()n to doubt.
They have the utmoft contempt for the employment
of a butcher, taylor, inillcr, or porter. It is not in-
deed very furprifing, that they fliould not have any
great cfteem for die profcHion of a butcher, or that ths
employment Of a tay lor fiiould be confidered as fome-
\^hat too etl'eniinatc for a man; but it is difficult to
imagine why millers ami porters fhould be defpifed.
efpeciaWy tiie former ; but it mufl be confidered, that
tilt millers here are generally efteemed great thieves ;
and as the mafier of every family fends his own com
to be ground, unlcfs it be narrowly watched, the miller
will take too niuch toll. It is faid that when any crimi-
nal is to fiiffer death, and the executioner happens to
be out of the way, the officers of juftice have the
power of fciziiif; the flrft butcher, miller, or porter they
can find, and of obliging him to difcham: that oflke ;
fuch is 'heir dillikc to pcrfons of thele occupations.
Mr. Glafs, once touching at the ifiand of Gcmera to
procure frefli water, hiretl fomc poor ragged fiftiermen
to fill the water calk.s, and bring them on board ; but
fomc time after, going to the watering place to (cv*
what proga-fs they had made, he found the calks full,
and all ready for rolling down to the beach, with the
filhermcn Handing by, and talking together, as if they
had nothing fiirther to do. He reprimanded them for
their lazinefs in not difpatching the bufinefs in which he
had employed them ; when one of them, with a dif-
daintul air, replied, " What do you take us to be. Sir i
" Do you imagine we are porters ? No, Sir, we are fea-
" men." Notwithftanding all his intreatics and pro-
niifes of reward, he was unable to prevail upon any of
them to roll the cafl( to the water fide ; but was at laft
obliged to hire {porters, to do the bufmefs. But the
gentry of thefe iflands, though for the moft part poor,
yet are extremely polite and well bred, the very pea>
rants and labouring people have a confiderabic fluue of
good manners, with little of that furly rafticity which
IS too common among the lower clafs of people in
England > yet they do net feem to be abalhed in the
praence of their fupcriors. A beggar aflcs charity of
a gentleman, by faying, '* For thclove of God, Sir,
" pleafe to give me half a rial ;" and if the other gives
him nothing, he returns, " For the love of God, fbeg
your worfhip's pardon," and then departs.
The common people and (ervants here are much ad-
dicted to private pilferii^, for which they arc ufually
puniflied t^ being difcharged the fcrvice, beaten, or
imprifoned for a fnort time. Highway robberies are fel-
dom or ever known -, but murder is more common
3 G thi^
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Its
C«pt. COOK'S VOYAGES COMPLETE.
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than in England; and thev have no notion of duels,
for they cannot imagine that becaufc a nun has the
courage to fight, he thereby atones for the injury done
to another, or that it ought to give him a ridit to do
him a greater. When the murderer has killed a man,
he flies to a church for refuge, till he can Qnd an op-
portunity toefcape to another ifland; and if he had
been greatly provoked or injured bv the deceafed, and
did not kill him defignedly, every iwdy will be ready to
ailill him to cfcape, except the near relations of the
perfon who has lofl his life ; yet quarrels arc far from
being frequent here, which may be owing to the want
of taverns and other public houfes, their polite beha-
viour, the little intercourfe there is between them, and
their temperance in drinking. Perfons of the lower
clafs never fight in public, but if one perlbn puts ano-
ther into a violent paflion, the injured party, if able,
ukcs his revenge in the bed manner he can, till he
thinks he has had fatisfadion, without any regard to
the equity of the method he ufes for this purpofc.
The inhabitants of the Canary idands are in gene-
ral extremely temperate; or at lead, if they are other-
wife, it is in private only ; for nothing can be a greater
difgrace there, than to be feen drunk ; and a man who
can be proved a drunkard, is not permitted to give evi.
dcncc, or take his oath, in a court of judicature.
Plence thofe that are fond of liquor, intoxicate them-
fclves in their chambers, and then lie down, in order to
fleep till they are fober. Thofe of all ranks in thefe
iflands are extremely amorous ; but their notions of
love are pretty lingular ; which may perhaps be attri-
buted to the Want of innocent freedom between the
fexcs. However, they do not feem to be inclined to
jealoufy, any more than the Englifli or French. It is
ufiial for young people here to fall in love at fight ; and
if the parties agree to marry, but find their parents
averfe to their union, they complain to the curate of
the pariih, who goes to the houfc where the girl lives,
and endeavours to perfuade them to agree to her mar-
riage : but if they refiife to confent to their union, he
takes her away before their faces, without their being
able to hinder him, and either places her in a convent,
or with fome of her relations, where ihe mufl; remain
till they confent to her marriage. We have been in-
formed that a lady will fomctimes fend a man an offer
of her perfon in an honourable way ; if he declines it,
he keeps the matter fecret till death, fliould he do
otherwife, he would be looked upon ^ all people in
the mod defpicable light. Young men arc not albwed
to court the youth of the other fcx without an intention
to marry them ; for if a woman can prove that a man
has, in any inftance, ciideavoured to engage her affec-
tions, ihe can oblize him to marry her. This, like
many other good laws, i* abufcd ; for loofc women
uking advantage of it, frequently lay fnare-s lo entrap
the (imple and unwary ; and fometimes worthlefs young
men, form defigns upon the fortunes of ladies, without
having the leail regard for their perfons : there are not,
however, many mercenary lovers in thif part of the
wofid, their notions in general being too refined and
romantic to admit the idea of that pafTion being made
fubfervient to their ambition or intereft; and yet there
arc more unhappy marriages here than in the countries
where innocent freedoms being allowed between the
fexes, ioven arc not fo blinded by their {nfliora, aa
not to perceive the frailty and imperfedions of their
miArcflres. On the death of a man's wife, it is ufual
for fome of his relations to come to his houfe. and re-
fide with him for fome time, in order to divert his
grief, and do not leave him till another relation comes
to relieve the firft, the'fecond is relieved by a third, wd
thus they iuccecd each other' for the fpace of a year.
Each of the Canary iflands, as well as every town
and fiimiiy, hath a peculiar tutelary faint for its patron,
whofe day is celebrated as a fefiival, by a femnon
preached m honour of the faint, and a fervice fuited to
the occafion. On thefe days, the flicet near the church
is ftrewed with ftowcrs ana leaves, a multitude of wax
candles are lighted, and a confiderable number of fire',
works pbyed off.
A kind of f«ir i# generally held on the eve of thefe
fefUvals, to which the people of the adjacent Country
rcibrt, and fpend the greateit part of the night in mirth
and dancing to the found of the guittar, accompanied
t with the voices not only of thofe who play on that in-
ftrument, but by thofe of the dancers. The dances
pradUcd here arc farabands and folias, which arc flow
dances ; thofe ^hich are quick are the canario, firft
ufed by the Canarians ; the fandango, which is chiefly
pradlifcd by the vul^; and the rapetes, which nearly
refemblet our hornpipe. Some of thefe dancers may
be termed dramatic, as jhe men fin^ verfcs |o their
partners, who anfwer them in the fame mattiicr. MofV
of the natives of thefe iflands can play on the guittar,
and they have in general excellent voices. .
For the entertainment of the populace, plays artf
atfled in the ftrcets, at the feafts of the tutelar faints of
Tcneriffe, Canaria, and P^ma;,but the penfonnerf
cannot be fuppofcd to rife to any dcgre^ of perfe<^ion,
as they are not profefTed adors, andonly fome of the
inhabitants of the place feem to have a natural turn for
ading.
The gentry frequently take the atron horfebick ; but
when the ladies are obliged to travel, they ride on alTet^
and inflead of a faddlc, they ufe a kind of chair, ii|
which they fit very commodioufly. The principal roads
are paved with pebble-ftones, like tlune ufed in the
fireets of London. There are a few chariots in Cana-
ria, the town of Santa Cruz, and the city of Laguna
in Tcneriffe ; thefe are all drawn by mules, but they are
kept rather for fliew than ufe ; for the roads ai:e not pro-
per for wheel carriages, being fleep and rocky. - The
lower clafs of people divert themielves with dancing,
Angingi and playing on the guitur; like wife with
throwing a ball through a ring placed at a great dif-
unce, cards.wreflling, and quoits. The pcafants, particu-
larly thofe of Gomera, have the art of leaping from
rock to rock when.they travel, which is thus perform-
ed : the long flaff or pole ufed on thefe occafions, has
an iron fpike at the end of it, and when a man wants
to defcend from one rock to another, he aims the point
of the pole at the place where he intends to alight, and
then throws hirafelf towards it, pitching the end of the
pole fo as to bring it to a perpendicular, and then Aides
down it to the rock on which he fixed it.
In the conventt, children are tauj^t reading, wri-
ting, Latin, arithmetic, logic, and other branches of
phUofophy. lite fcholars read the dallies ; but the
Greek is never taught here, and is entirely unknown
even to the fhidents in divinity. They are particu*
larly fond of civil law and logic, but thelatter is chiefly
preferred.
The people bclongiiu; to thefe iflands have a genius
for poetry, and compote verfes of different mcafures,
which th<^ fet to mufic. Some of their fongs, and
odicr poetical pieces, would be greatly efteemcd in a
country where tafle for poetry prevails. Few of thofe
books called pro£me (to diflinguifli them from thofe
of a religious kind) are read here, fince they cannot
be imported into the ifland without being firfl examined
by the inquifition { a court which nobody cares to have
any concern with. The hiflory of the wars in Granada
is in every body's hands, and is read by people of all
nnks ; they have alfo fome plays, mofl of which are
vety good. Hiomas a Kempis, and the Devout Pil-
grim, are in every library, and much admired. But
the books tnoft read by the laity are the Lives of
the Saims and Martyn, which may be confidercd as a
kind of relisious romances, fluffed with legends, and
the mOftabwrd and improbable florics.
Wi^t^^x^ to the civil govenunent of the iflands
of Canaria, Tcneriffie. and nima, which are called the
king's iflaads, jt will be proper to obferve, in thefird
place, that the natives, on their fubmitting to the crown
of Spain, were fo fiu- from being deprived of their li-
berty, that they were put on an equality with their con-
qucfors. in whic^ the Spanianls fliewed oreat wifdom
and policy i but how they came afterwards to ad in a
U quite contrary maaner ui America, is hard to deter-
mine ; perhaps they might be apprchcnfive, that if they
pro-
I Hit l>
COOK*« S Ecgy p VOY AqE-for making Pifcoveriet in die ^euihSetU fc Koiihd ^h« Wim. Ti »
■ ■ ■- ■'] I -- -I-- -• .1- ->.-■• --A... '..,.. . t. .. ' :...■ .L--. ..
proceeded witfTtoo mucH rigour 'ogainfTthem iX'tKtl,
they might in time be induced to fluke off xht ybkr«
ana dirpoflefs their tyrannical maften. which we arc
informed, hf late eventi, has proved; to be th« cafe in
South America, a* the following ^itce of InteTligence,
publiflied in September i7«i, annbunccJ : •• Tou have
repeatedly heard it reported, thilt there Was a rebellion
in Chili and Peru, in South America ^ and though the
Spaniards do all they can to keep it a fecret, 1 can af-
fyre yoii, from undoubted authoritv. that all the mines
in Peru and the city of Pez, which is fituate^ in the
interior part of the country, where they lodged their
bars of gold and filver, and other valuables, arc taken
from them, and there were one hundred and fifty mil-
lions of piaflrcs taken out of the flrong chefts. I'hc na-
Jives will very foon have the whole country in their pof-
eflk>n, for they dedroy cve^ white man,' woman, and
child, and even kill every one begot betwctih a Spa-
niard and a native." But to return. After the con
qucd of the Canary Idands, the Spaniards incorpo-
rated with the natives in fuch a manner as to become
one people with them, and in confequcnce of this po-
litical union, the king of Spain is able to raife in thefe
idands more Ibldiers and feamcn than in any other put
of his dominions of three times their extent. The jd-
cade, who is a juHice of peace, '\i the lowed officer
except the alguazils ; there is one of them in every
town or village of note. Thefe magi Urates arc ap-
pointed by the royal audience of the city of Palmas,
m Canana t they hold their places only for a ccruin
time, and, in cafes of property, can take cognizance of
no difputes where the valuCof what is contended for ex-
ceeds (cventeen rials, or fevcn Ihillings fleriing. Over
thefe magiftrates is the alcade major, who is appointed
inthe fame manner as the other, and cannot decide any
cafe relating to property, that exceeds the fumoftwo
hundred dmlan. From the decifion of thofe magif-
trates, appeals He to the tiniente and corrcgidor : the
frft of whom is a lawyer, and nominated by the royal
audience: but the latter, who is appointed by the
king, is not obliged to be a lawyer, yet mud have a fe-
cretary, clerk, or afliftant bred to the law. The corrc-
gidor generally holds his place Ave years, and fome-
timea longer. Few of the natives enjoy this honour-
able office, which is commonlv filied by Spaniards.
The proceedings of the corregidor's court, and in that
of the tiniente, arc theiame v^hefe courts feeming to
have been originally intended as a check upon each
other. Appeals are made from the corrcgidor and ti-
niente to tne royal audience of Grand Canaria : a tri-
bunal compofed of three oidones, or judges, a regent,
and fifcal, who are ufually natives of Spain, and are
always appointed by the king. The governor-general
is prefident of this court, though he refides in Tene-
rine. In criminal cauTet there u no appeal from their
determination ; but appeals are carried to the council
or audience of Seville m Spain, in natters refpedling
property.
In the Canary Idands, the danding forces amount
only to about an hundred and fifty men; but there is a
militia of which the govemor-general of the ifland is
always commander in chief, and the officen, as colo-
nels, captains, and fubaltems, are appointed by the !
}ur%. There are alfo governors of (om and cadles,
ibmc of which are appointed by the king, and others
by the twelve regidors of the idands, called the cavildo j
fbme or the forts bdons to the king, and the red are
under the diredion of the regidors, or fub-governors,
who alfo take care of the repair of the highways, pre- '
vent nuifances, and the plague from being brought into
the idaitd by fliipping t for no man is allowed to land
in thefe idands from any fliip, till the mader produces
• bill of health from the lad port, or till the crew have
been examined by the proper officers. The royal re- 1
venue arifcs from the following articles: a third of the
tithes, which fcarpely amounts to a tenth part of them,
the clergy approwiaiing almoft the whole to thcm-j
?. "• c i * """' **" *'• tP*'™ ^ '^^ I'OP' » the I
king of Spain, in confidcratton of his inainuinins a '
perpetual war agunft the infidels. The fccoiid bram:h
donflfti ittthffiMwi»«irwfTJrt«ctod water. We
alfo recruited our live dock, fuch as nogs, goats and
poultry, fomf'jOf which continued alive during the re-
mainder of uii. voyage.
The Cape de Verd idands are fituated in 14 deg.
10 min. N. latitude, and 16 deg. 30 min. W. lon-
gitude. They were lo called from a cape of the fame
name oppofite to them, and were difcovered bv Anthony
Noel, a Genocfe. in the fervice of Portugal, in the year
1640, and are about twenty in numbers but fome of
them are only barren uninhabited rocks. The cape
took its name from the perpetual verdure with which it
is covered. The Portugueze give them the name of
Les Ilhas de Verdes, either from the verdure of the
cape, or elfe from an herb called faigaflb. which is
freen, and floats on the water all round them. His
brtuguefe majedy appoints a viceroy to govern them,
who condantly refides in the ifland of St. Jago. The
Dutch call them the Salt Iflands, from the great quan-
tities of that commodity produced in feverd of them.
The principal of thefe are, i. May, or Mayo ; 2. San
Jago, or Sawt James's : 3. Sal or Salti 4. Buena, or
Bono Vida, or Good Si^t; c. St. Philip's, otherwife
called Fuego, or the ifland of Fire ; 6. St. John, or San
Juan I 7. St. Nicholas; 8. St. Vincent; 9. St. Anthony;
10. St. Lucia ; 1 1 . Bniva. Their foil is very flony and
barren ; the climate exceeding hot, and in fome of
them very unwholefome ; however, the principal part
of them are fertile, and produce various forts of grain
and fruits, particulariy nee, maiz, or Indian wheat,ba-
nanas, lemons, citrons, oranges, pomegranates, cocoa-
milSk md figs. They have alfo calavanes, a fort of
EuITc nke French beans, and great Quantities of pump-
ins, on which the inhabitanu chiefly fubfid. They
produce alfo two odier fruiu of a renMriurt)lc nature,
viz.
'
ill
1
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viz. die cuftard apple, and the papah. The fonncr of
thde u as large its a pomegranate, and nearly of the
fame colour. The outQde hu(k. flicll, or rind, ii in
fubfiancc and thickne(s between the (hell of a poinegni-
nate and the peel of a Seville orange, foftct than thf
femner, yet niore brittle than the latter. The cceii. or
rind ii alfo remarkable for being covered with . ,nall
reeular knobs or rilincst and the infide of the Ouit is
full of a white foft pulp, which in iu form, colour and
ufte, greatly refemblcs a cuftard, from whence it re-
ceived its name, which was probably fird given it bv
the Europeans. It has in the middle a few fnuU blacic
floncs, but no core, for the whole uf it is entire pulp.
Ilie tree that K-ars this fruit is about the lizc of a
quincc-trce, and has k>ng (lender branches that fprcad
a confldcrable way from the trunk. Only foinc of the
branches bear fruit, for thpugh thefe trees are large,
yet in general fuch trees do not produce above twenty
or thirty apples. The frak grows at the extremity of
thefe branches, upon a (lalk about nine or ten inches
long. The other fruit, called the papah, is about the
fizc of a mulk melon, and refemblcs it in fliapc and
colour both within and without ; only in the middle,
inftead of flat kernels, which the melons have, thcic
have a quantity of fmall blackiih feeds, about the fizc of
pepper-corns, the taHe of which is much the fame as
that fpice. The tree on which this fruit grows, is about
ten or twelve feet high ; the trunk is thickcil at the
bottom, from whence it gradually decrcafes to the top.
where it is very thin and taper. It has not any fmiul
branches, but only large leaves, that grow immediately
on the ftalks from the body. The leaves are of a
roundiHi form, and jagged about the edges, having
their ftalks or Humps longer or fmaller, as they grow
nearer or farther from the top : they begin to fpringout
of the body of the tree at about fix or fcvcn feet high
from the ground, the trunk being below that entirely
bare, and the leaves grow thick all the way from thence
to the top, where they are veryclofe and broad. I'he fruit
grow only among the leaves, and mod plentiful wherc
the leaves are thickcft ; fo that towards the top of the
tree the papahs fpring forth from it in cluflers. It is,
however, to be obferved, that where they grow fo thick,
they are but fmall, being no bigger tnan ordinary
turnep : whereas thofe nearer the middle of the trunk,
where the leaves arc not fo thick, grow to the iirft-
incntioncd fize.
Vario«is forts of poultry abound in thefe iflands,
particularly curlews, Guiney hens, and flamingoes, the
latter of w hich are very numerous. The flamingo is a
large bird, much like a heron in Ihapc, but bigger, and
of a reddilh colour; they go in flocks, but are fo ^y,
that it is very diflicult to catch them: they build their
nefts in (hallow ponds, where there is much mud,
which they fc rape together, making little hillocks, like
fmall iflands, that appear about a foot and a half above
the furfacc of the water. They make the foundations
of thefe hillocks broad, bringing them up taper to the
top, where they leave a fmairhollow pit to lay their eggs
in : they never lay more than two eggs, and feldom Ids.
The young ones cannot fly till tl^y are almofl full
grown, but they run with furprizing fwiftnefs : their
tongues are broad and long, having a large lump of tit
at the root, which is delicious in its tafle, and fo greatly
admired, that a difh of them will produce a very con-
fiderablc fum of money. Their flefh is lean, and of a
dingy colour, but it neither ufles fllhy, nor atiy ways
unplcafam. Here are alfo feveral other forts of fowls,
as pigeons and turtle doves ; miniotas, a fort of land
fowl, as big as crows, of a grey colour, and the flefli
well u(ted ; crufuu, another fort of grey-coloured fowl,
ainraft as large as the former; thefe are only feen in the
night, and their flefli is faid to be exceeding (aluury to
people in a decline, by whom they are ufed. They
have Ijkewife great plenty of partridges, quails, and
other fmall htrds. and rabbets in prodigious numbers.
Many wild animals abound here, particularly lions,
tigers and camels, the latter of which arc remarkably
mp. There are alfo great numbers of monkies, ba-
bgwis, and civet-cats, and vjtrious kinds of repule*.
3^
The tame animals are horfea. alTes, flieep, mules, cowj,
goats and hqgs > and here the European fltipii bound (i>r
thcEaft Indies, ufyitly flop to take in fre(h water and
provifions. with whjcn fhivare always otcnti folly fuppi ied.
Fi(h of various fons abound in the fea, particularly
dolpbini. bonettas. mullets. frttpfKrs, filver lifiS, itc.
and here is fuch plenty of turtle, that fevcrat foreign
fliips come yearly to catch them. In the wet feaion
the turtles go afliorc to lay their eggs in the fund, which
they leave to be hatched by the heat of the full. The
flein of the turtles, well cured, is as great a fupply fo the
American plantations, as^cod-filh >s to liuropc. The
inhabitants go out by liight and catch the turtfes, by
turning them on their backs with poles j for they are lo
large that they cannot do it with their hands.
In thefe iflands are many European families, all of
whom profefs the Roman Catholic religion. The na-
tives arc all negroes, and much like (hrir African neigh-
boun, from whom they are fuppofed to Ik- dofcendcd i
thou^, as they are fubjcd to the Portiigiiaze, their owfi
religion and language prevail among them. Uoth men
antfwomen are flout, and wcH limbed, and they arc in
general of a civil and quiet dirpofitiun. Their drefs
(particularly in the ifland of St. John) is very trifling,
cOnflfKng only of a piece of cotton cloth wound round
the waift. The women fomctimcs throw it ovier the
head, and the men acrols the (boulders. Neither fex
M'ear fhoes or (dockings, except on certain fcflivalj.
The men arc particularly fond of wearing breeches, if
they can get them, ami are ver^j happy if they ha\'e but
a waiftband and lisp before, be they ever fo ragged.
The ifland ofM.nvo, or May, obtained its name from
its being difcovcred on the firft of that month. It is
(ituattd m i < dcg. 5 inin. N. latitude, near 300 miles
from Cape Vera, and is about 17 miles in circum-
ference. The foil is i^ general very barrel^ ;)nd wat^r
fcarce: however, here ar* plenty of cows, g6ars, anil
alTes i and alfo fume corn, yams, potatoes ancT plantains.
The trees are (Ituated on the fldcs of the hiffs, and the
natives have foinc water-melons and tigs. The fea
likcwileabounds with wild tbwl, fifli and turtle. There
frows on this ifland, as well as on molt of the others, »
ind of vegetable ftonc, extrpmely porous, of a grc}-ifli
colour, w hich flioots up m (Veins, and forms fomething
like the head of a cauliflower.
On the weft (ide of the ifland is a fand.bank that runs
two or three miles along the flio^c, within which is a
large falina, or falt-pond, cnconipalTed by the fand-
bank, and the hills beyond it. The 'whole falt-{rand it
about two miles in length, and half a mile wide ; but the
greater part of it is generally dry. The north end,
which is always fupplied with water, produces fait from
November tilt May, thofe months being the dry feafon
of the year. The waters yield this fait out ot the fea,
through a hole in the fand-bank, and the quantity that
flows into it is in proportion to the height of the tides:
in the common courle it is very gentle, but when the
fpring tides arife, it is fupplied in abundance. If there
is any fait in the pond, when the flufli of water comes
in. it foon dilfolves t but in two or three days after it'
b^nsto congeal, and fo continues till a fre(h fup) ly of
water from tnc fea comes in agaio. A coniiderable
trade for fait is canied oh by the Englifli, and the armed
fliips deflined to fecurr the African commerce, afford
the veflcis thus engaged their protes come hither, fo that the Englifli arc the chief on
whom ihcy depend for trade i and though they arc fub-
jcAs of Portugal, they have a particular efteem for the
Englifh nation. Aflcs are alfo a great comniodity of
trade here i and are fo plentiful, that feveral European
(hips from Barbadoes and other plantations, come an-
nually to frciriit with them to carry thither.
The ifland of St. Jago, or St. James's ifland, is
fituated about four leagues to the weftward of Mayo,
between the isth and i6th dcg. N. lat. and in the 23d
of W. long. This ifland is the moft fruitful and beft
inhabited of all the Cape dc Verd iflands, notwithftand-
ing it is very mountainous, and has a great deal of
barren land in it. The principal town is called after
the name of the ifland^ and is iituated in 1 $ deg. N.
latitude. It ftandsagainfl the fides of two n.ountains,
between which there is a deep valley two hundred yards
wide, that runs within a fmall fpace of the fea. In
that part of the valley next the fea is a ftraggling ftrcet,
with houfes on each fide, and a rivulet of water in the
bottom, which empties iifelf into a fine cove or fandy
bay, where the fea is generally very fmooth, fo that
fiiips ride there with great fafety. A fnnall fort ftands
near the landing place from this b:iy, where a guard is
conftantly kept, and near it is a battery mounted with
a few fmall cannon.
The town of St. John contains about three hundred
houfes, all'built of rough ftonc, and it has one fmall
church and a convent. The inhabitants of the town
are in general very poor, having but little trade. Their
chief manufadlurc is flriped cotton cloth, which the
Portuguefc (hips purchafe of them, in their way to
Brafil, and fupply them with feveral European conimo.
ditics in return.
A tolerable large town is on the eaft flde of the ifland,
called Praya, where there is a good port, vhich is fel-
dom without fliips, efpccially in peaceable times. Moft
of the European ihips bound to the Eaft Indies touch
at this port to take in water and pmvifions, but they
feldom nop here on their return to Europe. The town
of Praya docs not contain any re^iiarkable building.cx-
cept a fort, iituated iin the top of a hill, which com-
mands the harbour. When the F.uropean fliips are here,
the country people bring down their commodities to
fell to the feauien and paflengers ; thcfe articles gene-
rally conflft of bullocks, ho(ip, goats, fowb, eggs,
Slanuins, and coioa-nuts, which they exchange tor
lirttidniwers, handkerchiefs, hats, waiftcoau, breeches,
and lioenof anv kind.
The port of Praya, a fmall hay, is Iituated about the
middle of the fouth iide of the ifland of St. Jago, in
the latitude of 14 dcg. 53 min. ^o fee. N. and 23 deg.
30 min. W. longitude. It is difcovered, efpccially in
coming in from the eaft, by the fouthermoft hill on the
iOand, and which lies weft from the port. The entrance
of die bay is formed by two points, rather low, being
W. S. W. and E. N. E. half a league from each othtr.
Near the weft point are funken rocks, whereon the Tea
contiittially breaks. The bay lies in N. W. about half
a league. We watered at a well, behind the beach, at
the head of the bay. The water ii fcatce, but it is
difficult to get it aboard, on account of a great furf on
the beach. The refrdhtncnts to be procured here will
Wo.1^
be found in the cdurfe of oifl* accognt of the iflands.
Other articles may be purchafed of the natives in ex-
change forold cloaths, &c. Bullocks can only be bought
with monejf I the price twelve Spanifli dollars per head,
weighing between 250 and 300 pounds ; hut the fale of
them is confined to a company of merchants, to whom
this privilege is granted, and who keep an agent redding
on the fpot. 1 he bay is protected by a fort well Iitu-
ated for the purpofc of defence.
The cnmple}:ion of the natives of this town and St.
Jngo inclines to black, or is at Icaft of a mixed colour,
except fpmc few ofthc better fort that rdide in thelattcr,
among whom arc the governor, the bilhop, and foinc
of the padres (fathers) or priefts. 'i'he jKople ol Ht.
Jago town, as they live under the governor's eye, are
pretty orderly, though generally very |)oor, having lit-
tle trade; but thofe atioui Praya arc naturally of a
thievifl) difpofition, fo that ftrnngcrs who deal with
them mull be very careful, for if they fee an opportu-
nity, they will fteal their goods, and runaway.
Sal, or Salt, is the windwardmoft of all the Cape dc
Verd iflands, and is (ituated in the 17th deg. of N. lat.
and 5 dcg. 1 8 min. W. long, from the l ape. It re-
ceived this name from the great quantity of fait natu-
rally produced herefrom fait water, that frum time to
time bvertloiv s part of the land, which is mollly low,
having only five hills, and ftretches from north to fouth
about eight or nine leagues, but it docs not exceed one
league and a half in brc.-idth. In this illand are only a
few people. Thcfe live in wretched huts near the fea-
lide, and arc chiefly employed in gathering fait for
thofe fliips that occafionally call here for that article.
The beft account of this barren ifland is given us by
Capt. Roberts, who landed here, and relates the fol-
lowing ftory, which he fays he was told by one of the
blacks that refidcd in it. '• About the year 1705, not
long before I went afliore, the ifland was intircly de-
fcrtcd for want of rain by all its inhabitants except one
old man, who refolved to die on it, which he did the
fame year. The drought had been fo extreme for fomc
time, that moft of the cows and goats died for want of
fuftenance, but rain following, tney increafed apace,
till about three years after they were again reduced by a
remarkable event. A French fhip coming to fifti for
turtle, was obliged, by ftrcfs of weather, or from fome
other caufe, to leave behind her thirty blacks, which flic
had brought from St. Antonio to carry on the fifliing.
Thefe people, finding nothing clfe, fed moftly on wild
goats, till they had deftroyed them all but two, one
male and the other female ; thefc were then on the
ifland, and kept generally upon one mountain. A
fliort time after an Englifli fliip (bound for the ifland
of St. Mayo) perceiving the fmokc of feveral fires, fcnt
their boat on more, and thinking they might be fome
fliip's company wrecked on the ifland, put in there ;
when they underftood the (ituation of the people, they
commiferated their cafe, took them all in, and landed
them on the ifland from whence they were brought."
The ifland of Bucna Vifta. or Bona Vifta. thus named
from its being the firft of the Cape de Verd iflands dif-
covered by the Portuguefc, is fituated in the 16th de-
gree of N. lat. two hundred miles W. of the coaft of
Africa, and is twenty miles long, and twelve broad,
moftly coniifting of low lend, with fome ikndy hills, and
rocky mountains. It produces great quantities of in-
digo, and more cotton than all the other Cape de Verd
iflands 1 yet there is nut one of them where there are
fewer cotton cloths to be fold : for the natives will not
even gather the cotton before a fliip arrives to buy it ;
nor will the women fpin till they want it. They have,
in general, the fame animals as in the other iflands. with
plenty of turtle, and many forts of fifli. When the
Englifli land to take in a lading Of fait, they hire men
ana aflcs to bring it down to the feas for which riiey
pay them in bilcuits, flour, and old cloaths. lUiit
ifland had alfo formerly a pretty good trade for honk
and alTes, which are the -beft of aU that are upon thn
iflands. The people are very fond of filk, with wlhicR-
thcy work the bofoms of their fliirts, ihifts, ca|^, Vo.
nvoi's waiftcoau, &c. \
a H 1^
'<
9";
'i'
Ki^l^
laa
Ctpt. COOK't VOYAGES COMPLETE.
'■ #■
liO
ill
The people of thii ifland prefer the Englith dreft
to their own i for nioA of them have fiiitt of ciMtht
bought of the En{(tt(h, md have teamed to make cot-
ton cloch to imkate the EurapcAt fadiien. Thewomm
have one, two, or three cotton clothi wrapped about
them like pcnicoati, tied on with avinflc afaauk the
hipi, and ibmetimei without a rMk. Their (hifta
are made like a inan^t fliirt^ but To (hort) as f:arccly to
reach to*. capain of the
ntounuins, has the manaoement of this revenue, and
no pcrTon dares, without his Uccnce, kill any one of
them.
St. John's h fituated in fifteen dcgiees twenty-five
min. N. lat. and fcven deg. two min. W. of Cape Verd,
and is very high and rocky. It ha* more falt-petre than
any of thefe Ulands ; this is found in firvenl caves, co-
vering the (ides Hke a hoar-frofl, and in (bme holtow
rocks, like iflcles, as thick as a man's thumb. This
ifland abounds with pr>mpions, bananas, water-melons,
and other ihiit, and aUb with fbwU, g«ua,«flei> hqgs.
f?^^^n»«'« ■« rtenty of fUh in the feas nboiit St.
Johrt"*, and molt oT the fifli here have remarkiibic fliarp
i?* ' ^t*"*? |i«i»eraUy ule crab* and inledfs lor
baits. Fifhing is the principal employment of the na-
tive* , hence they mifs no opportunities of wrecks, or,
when fliips touch hire, to procure all the bits of iron
tlMnrcan.
In this ifland, the fait is made hy the heat of the
lurt, which (hining on the water in the holes of the
•Jfl". '•*w*b)' wmed, and fometimet lie* two Act
thick. The natives ufijally go and get a quantity of fait
early in the morning, hfli the greatcfl part cf the day,
dry, fplit, and fait their filh in the evening, and, h«>-
ing hraped them up let them lie in the fait all iiiKht. C)n
the cnftiing morning they fprcad them out to dry in the
"»n»«nd they are fit to ufe when wanted.
The bahas, a fort of whale or grampus, is very com-
mon near this ifland i and fome affirm, that amberpri*
IS the fperm of this creature. A great quantity of am-
bergris WM formerly fcund about this ifland, but it is
Icfs plentifiil at prefent. Some years before Capt. Ro-
belts was here, Juan Camvira, a Portuguefc, who was
banifhed from Lifbon for fome crime, hWing procured
a little fliip or fliallop, traded among thcle iflands :
meeting at length with a picceof ambergris of an un-
common bigncfs, he not only procured his nbertv, and
leave to return before the term of his exile was expired,
but had fiiARriem left, after dcfrayii^ nil tharges, ta
put himiclf into a comfortable way of li%ing. and a
rock near to which he found the ambergris, is called by
his name to this day.
The natives of this ifland do not amount to above
two hundred fouls, and are c^itc black. They are the
moft ignorant and fuperflitious of .wy of the inhabi-
tantsof thcfc iflands. But in their difpofuion thc-y are
(imple and harmlefs, humble, chai itable, humane, and
friendly ; pay a particular rcfpc('> to their equals, re-
verence their elders, are fubmiflive to their fuperior*-,
and dutiful to their parents. People wear I'n common
only a flip of cotton faflened to a flring befoie, which
pslting between the thiehs, is tied to the fame flring be-
hind ; but when fiiil arefl<:d they alfo wear a piece of
cotton cloth, (fpun and wove by themfelves) which the
men hang over their fliouldcrs, and wrap round their
waifts, wliile the women put it over their heads, and
then wrap it about their bodies j and on both of them
it extends to the calf of the leg, or lower. I'hey ufe
in tifliiiw, long canes for rods, cotton tines, and bent
nails for hooks. As to their hunting, the governor hav-
ing the fole privilege of killing the wild goats, none
dare hunt without his confcnt. This wss a law made
by the Portuguefe when they peopled thefe iflands from
the coofl of Africa, in order to prevent the entire lot's
of the breed.
. When a gcnenl hunt is appointed by the governor,
all the inhabkants are aflemUcd, anu the dogs, whictt
are between a beagle and • greyhound, are called.
At night, or when the governor thinks proper to put
an end to the ibort, they all meet together, and he parts
the mats flelh between them as he pleffis, fending what
he tninks proper to his own houfe, with nil the fkins ;
and after he comes home, he fends piccci to tho(}; who
are old, or were not out a hunting ; and thv* (kins he
diflributcs amongfl them as he thinks their ncrefTlticA.
require, rcfcrving the remainder of then) for t\x lord
of the foil. This is one of the principal piiviieges en-
joyed t^ the governor ; who is alfo the only magiflratr,
and decides the littk differences that fometimcs happen
among the people. Upon their not fubmittirg to thia
decition» he confines them till they do, in an open place
walled round like a pound : but, inflcad of a gate.
they generally lay only a flick acrofs the entrance, and
thofe innocent people will flay there without attempt-
ing to efcape, except when overcome by paflton, and
then they ru(h out in a rage ; but thefe are foon caught
again, tied hand and foot, and a ccntinel fet to watch
them, till they i^ree with rfjcir antagonifl, alk the gwxr-
nor's pardon for braakincout of his prifon. and have re-
mained there as long as ne thinks they have dcfervetl.
Nay, if one kills anmhet, which hardly happegs in an
age*
COOK'S SECOND VOYACE-for miking Difiovtrits in the Siiti Sets tt. Rcund the frorU. i a 3
•se. the aovemor can only confine him till he h««.P«<:>-
ftd the relation, of the dcceafed, bjr the mediation of
hii friend., who are bound for the criminal .appear-
ance, in cafe a judge Ihould be ever fent from Portugal
to execute juftice, but imprifonment u here reckoned
fuch a fcandal, that it i. a. niuch dreaded a»Tybum
wa. by criminal, here. j^rc «.-.«»
About forty five mile, from the inandrtf Salt i. St.
Nichola. Ifland.thcN. W-pdnt of which i. in 17 deff.
10 min. N. latititdc. lind 6 deg. ja min. W. longitude
from Cape dc Verd. It ii the larMft of all the Cape
de Verd ifland.. except St. Jago. The land 1. high,
and rife, iike a fugar-loaf, out the fummit of the mOlt
elevaied part i. flat. The coaft of thl. iflarid i. entire-
ly clear from rock, and IhoaU. T^e liay of PUnighifi i»
very fafc, but the other ro«d< 4re inlccure till the trade
wind* are fettled. Here 1. a vaUttr which ha. a fine
fpring of water in it, and many penon. empl«iy them-
Wvc3 in fupplyiiig different paru with th« ufefui arti-
cle, with which they load afla, and carry it a confide-
rablc way at a cheap rate. Water may likewife be
obtained in aliiioll any part of the inand, by digging a
well.
The town of St. Nichola. is the chief place in the
idand ; it i. clofe built and populout, but all the houfes
and even the church, are covered with thatch. Capt.
Avery, the celebrated piiiaie, having once received fdmc
wit'encc from the inhabinnt., burnt this town ; but it
Viu aflernard. n-built, much in the fame manner, and
10 the fame extent a. before.
ITic people arc nearly black, with frizzled hair.
Theyfpeak the Portuguife language tolerably well, but
aie thievifh and bidod thiritjr. The women here arc
more ingenious, and better houfcwive. than in any
other of the Cape dc Verd ifklnd.. Moft families have
horfe., hogs, and poultry i JUid mitny of the people of
St. Nikhoia. underflartd the art of boat-building, in
%hich the inhabitint. of the other ifldnd. are deficient;
They tikewiie make good rloth.< and even cloath.,
being toletdble Uyion, nunufiiAuK cotton quilu, knit
cotton ftockingt, make good lht>e«. aiH) tan leather.
They arc Areita Roman Catholic., but their difpofi-
tion. art To obftinate, that their prieft. And It very
difficult to hile therti. This ifland abounds irt brangcs,
lemons, plantains, banaou, poinpioni, muflt, iMter-
tnelons, fugar-caacs, vinu, guPii but in
the dry feaiSh the people are greatly diflrcflcd for
Mater. The principal people l«re are a governor, a
captain, a prieft, and a fchoolmafter, all of whom take
much Up«n themfelves, fo that the people have fiime
jingling verfes concerning them, which imply, that the
governor's ttaff, the beads of the pricfl, the fchuolmaf'
tcr's nld, and the captain", fword, give them a licence to
fcart on the natives, who ferve as flaves to fupport their
luxury lind grarideui'.''
St. Lucia lies in latitude 17 deg. 18 min. N. Ii is
high land, full of hills, and is about eight or nine
leagues long. On the 9. E. end of it are two finall
illcH, very near each othef. On the E. S. E. fide i. the
harlmur, where the fhore i. of white fand : here lies a
fmall idand, round which thefe is a very good bottom,
and fiiips may ride at anchor in twenty fathom water,
over agnittft the ifland of St. Vincent.
Brav4 or the ravage, or the Drfart Ifland, is about
four leagues to the S. W. of Fuego. There are two
or three fmall ittn.-s to the north of it. The befl
harbour lies on the S. E. fide Of the ifland, where
(hips may anc^hor next to the Ihorc in fifteen ftthom
water. There is an hermitage and an hamlet juft above
the harbour. On the wefl-lide of the ifland there is a
very commodiou. road for fuch fliip. as want to get
water.
On Friddy the 14th 6f Aucuft, both fliip. having got
on board a fupply of refrrfninent. and provifion., wa
wcichcd dnchOr, put to fea, and continued oUr voyage
to the c ipc of Good Hope. On Sunday the 1 6th, in
the evening, a luHiinou. fiely meteor made it. appear-
ance i it Was of a bluifh colour, an oblong flupc, ami
had a quick defcertding motion. After a momentary
duration, it difiippeareu in the hdrizoni its courfc was
N. W. We obfcrvcd a fwallow following our veffel,
and inalfing numbcrlefs Circles round it, notwithftand-
ing our diltance from St. Jago wa. between fifty and
fixty leagues. This harmlcfs bird continued to attend
the fliip in her courfc the two following day.. We
olifervcd many conito. in the fea, which (hot paft u.
with great velocity ; but we could not take a fingle onct
thougn we endeavoured to catch them with hook., and
ftrike them with harpoons. We were more fuccefs-
flil in hooking a (hark, about five feet long. On this
fi(h we dined the next day. We found it rather dif-
ficult of digeftion, but, when fried, it wa. tolerably
good eating. Nothing very remarlcablc happened "on
board our fliip the Relolution, except that on the 19th,
one of our carpenter's mates fell overboard, and was
druwned. He ^as fitting on one of the fcuttles, fnm
whence it WaaAinx>fed he felL All our endeavours to
fave him were in vain, for he was not feen till the iiv-
fiant he funk under the fliip's ftem. Wc felt his loh
very fehfibly, he being a fober man, as well as a good
workman ; and be was much regretted even b/ his fliip-
mates.
(XtThurfday the 30th, the rain dcfcended nor in
dtops, but in ftreams, and, at the fame time, the wind
wa. fqually atid variable, fo that the people were ol>-
liged to keep deck, and of courfe had all wet jackets,
an inconvenience very common, and often experienced
by fcaineiu However, this difegreeable eirc'imftince
was attended with good,, as it gave us on opportuni-
ty of fpreading our awnings, and filling icveri empty
puncheons wiln frefli water. This, heavy rain was (uc-
ceeded by a dead calm,, whkh continued twenty-fouf
hours, aiid wai fellewed bf a breeze finom S, W. Be'*
tween this and tliefouth point it held for feveral days,
at timet blowing in fqualls, attended With rain and hot
fultiy weather. On the a*7th inftant, one of captain
F^meaux's petty officer, died onboard the Adventurci
but on board the Rclblution, we had not one man fick,
although a deal of rain fell,.which,'infuch hot climates,
i. a great promoter of fKkiiQfif Capt. Cook took every-
necdfiuy
1
* i:
U4
C«pt. COOK 'I VOYAGES COMPLETE.
I.
I
I) ,
mi
p.,.
ncccflary pre(autinn for the prcfcrvMion of our health,
by airing and drying the Ihip with tim made between
decks, and by making the crew air their bedding, and
wa(h their cloatha, at every opportunity. Two men
were puni(hcd un board the Adventure i one a private
marine tor i|uarrellinff with the quarter-nianrr ; the
other a conmton Tailor for theft. Each of thvin re-
ccivcd one docen. I'his wc mention to (hew what Ari^t
difcinlinc it \va< ncccflary to preferve on board, in order
to ellabliih a regular and peaceable behaviour in fuch
hazardous voyages, when men, unaccuftonicd to con-
troul, are apt to prove mutinous.
On Tucfd.-iy, &-ptcnibcr the 8fh, we croflcd the line
in longitude M dee. W. Some of the crew, who had
never paflcd the line before, were obliged to undergo
the ufual ceremony of ducking, but fomc bought thcm>
felves olf, by pa>ina the required forfeit of brandy.
I'hofe who fubiiiitted to an imnKriion, found it very
faluury, as it cannot well be done too often in warm
weather, and a frequent change of linen and cinaths ii
exceeding rcfa-lhing. On the 1 4th, a Hying ftlh fell
on our deck i wc caught fevcral dolphins ; taw fomc
aquatic birds s and, at various intervals, obfcrved the
fea covered w ith numbcrlefs animai:i. On Sunday the
37th, a fail was difcovercd to the W. (binding after us;
flic appeared to be a fnow , and (hewed either Portugucfe
colours, or St. (ieorgc's enlign. Wc did not chufe to
wait till flic approached nearer, or to fpcak 10 her. Hie
winds began now to be variable, fo that >«e made but
little way, and not any thing remarkable happened till
Odlober the 1 iih, when wc obfcrved an cclipfe of the
moon. At twenty-four niinurcs, twelve feconds, after
tix o'clock, by Mr. Kendal's watch, the moon rule about
four digits eclipfedi after which the following obferva-
tions were made with diftcrent inflruments and time-
(ffcccs, by our aflronoiners and others.
5 By Capt. Cook
2 By Mr. Forfler
By Mr. Wales
By Mr. Pickerfgili
By Mr. Gilbert
By Mr. Hervy
Mean
{Watch flow of
apparent time
h. m. f.
with
53
5S
54
55
5J
55
^ la common reftador.
57 a quadrant telefcope.
30 a three feet refractor.
24 the naked eye.
34 a quadrant tclefcopel
]
6 54 46^ by the watch,
o 3 59
Apparent rime 6 $8 45;. End of the cclipfe.
Ditto 7 25 00 At Greenwich.
Dift'crence of long, o 26 14^ = 6* 33' 30*
Longitude from Mr. Wales's Obfervations.
fiythemoonandflar Aquilae c» ii'lxM^^ £.9 .V «"
Bjthcdiao&do.AldX«n 6 35 {Mean 6» 13
By Mr Kendal's Watch 6 S3i
On Monday the i ath, the weather being calm, we
antufed ourfclves with fluoting fea fowl. We were
now accompanied by flicerwaters, pintadocs, &c. and
by a fmall grey petcrcl. This U(i is lc(s than a pigeon,
hiasa gray back, whiti(h bdly, and a black (trokc acrofs
from the tip of one wing to that of the other. Thefe
2.K fouthern birds, and, we believe, never fecn within
the tropici, or north of the line. They vifttrd us 'n
great flights ; and about the fanK tinK we faw fcveral
animals of the molufca kind, within our reach, to-
getj)cr with a violet-coloured (hell, of a remarkable thin
texture, and therefore feenu calculated to ke.p the
open fea t and not to come near rocky placet, it oein|r
ea(iiy broken. Saturday the 1 7th, we difcovcred a fail
to tne N. W. which hoifled Dutch colours. She kept
us company two days, but on thetliiid wc out-failed her.
From the i ith to thia dav, we had the wind between
the N. and E. a gentle gale. On Wcdnefday the 3 1 ft.
our latitude was 35 des. 30 min. S. and our longitude
X deg. 4 min. 30 fee. Ei Frmn this time to tlw 33d
I
the wind continued eafterly, when it vecretl to the N.
and N. W. Alter fome hours calm, wc faw a (Val, or
as fome thought, a fea lion. I'he wind now lixcd ac
N. W. which carried us to our intended port. As we
drew near to land, the fra fowl, which had aicoiii-
panict) us hitheno, began to leave ua : at lca(t the) did
not apiK-ar in fuch numbers) nor did we feegannets
or the black bird, commonly called the Cape Hen, till
we were nearly within flght of the Cape. On I'hurf-
day, the 29th, at two o'cbck P. M. we made the hnd
of the Cape of C»ooti Hopei for a particular dcfcrip-
tion of which, and of the adjacent country, fee page
93. &r. of this worfc. 'Ihc Tabic Mounuin.over the
Cape I'own, bore Ii. S. K. diflant twelve or fburtrcn
leagues : had it not have been obfcured by doudi. it
might, from its height, have been fecn at a much greater
dKbnce. Friday the 30th, we flooil into Table Bay,
with the Adventure in company, and anchored in five
fathom water. We were now vifited by the mailer-
attendant of the fort, fome cither oflkers iKJonging to
the coiii(Mny, and Mr. Bramtt. This hll gentleman
brought oH to us many articles that were stry accep-
table : and the inaflcr-attendant, as is cuftomary, took'
an account of the two fltips, enquiring particularly, if
the fnuil-|H)x was on board, a difordcr dreaded above
all others by the inhabitants of the capc; for which rra-
fon a furgcon always attends on theic viflts. This day
Capt. Cook fent an oflicer to wait upon Baron Plcttcr-
berg the governor, to infoiin him of our arrival ; to
which he returned a polite anfwer; and on the return of
our oflicer, we faluted the (brt with eleven guns, which
compliment was acknowledged by the faliic number.
The governor, when the captain .iccoinpanied by foii.c
of our gentlemen, waited upon him, told- them, thrt
two French fliipa fmm the Mauritius about eight
months before, had difcovcred land, in 4K deg. S. lati-
tude, and in the meridian of that ifland, along which
they failed forty miles, till they came to a bay, into
which when they were about to enter, they were driven
ofl^and feparated in a hard gale, after having luft fome
of their people and boata, who had been fent out to
found the bay ; but the IJi Fortune, one of the fliipt,
arrived foon after at Meurithit, the captain of which
was fent home to France with an account of the dif-
covery. We alfo learned from the governor, that two
other French fliips from Mauritius, in March la(t,
touched at the capc in their palTage to the Pacific
Ocean, to which they were bound upon.difcoverics,
under the conunand of M. Marion. Aotourou, the In-
dian, whom M. de Bougainville brought fromOtahcitr,
was, had he been living, to have returned home with
M. Marion. Having vifitcd the governor and fomc of
the principal inhabitants, wc took up our abode at Mr.
Brandt's, the ufual rclidence of mofl oHiccrs belonging
to Englifli (hips. With refpeCl to accommodations,
this gentleman fpam neither cxpence nor trouble, in
order to render hia houfe as agreeable as pofTible to
thofe who favour him with dieir company. Wc con-
certed meafum with Mr. Brandt for fupplying us with
provilions, &c. all which he procured without delay,
while our men on board were employed in overhauling
the rigging, and the carpenters in caulking the fliim
fides, &-C. At. the fame time Mr. Wales and Mr.
Baylcy made rervations for regulating the\^atchci.
and other purpofes. The refult of thcfc was tliat Mr.
Kendal's watch had anfwcred beyond our expcc'lations,
by determining the longitude of this place to within one
minute of time to what it was oblervcd in 1761, by
Meflh. Mafon and Dixon.
At this place two Dutch Indiamen arrived before us.
from Holland. Their paflaoc was near five months,
in which one of the (hips loll by "the fcurvy, and the
other 1^ putrid fevers, in all 191 men. One of thcfc
(hips touched at Port Praya, and departed a month from
thence b^ire we came there, yet we arrived at the
Capc three days before her. During our (lay here, Mr.
Forfter, who employed his time wholly in the purfuit of
Natural Hiftory and Botany, met with one Mr. Sparr-
man, a Swedifli gentleman, who had (ludied under
Linnanu. Mr. Forfter importuned (Irongly Capt. Cook
to
COOK't SECOND VOY AO^fottrnkiag D^veriet in the StuthStiu 6c Round ihs ^«/-/./. 1 25
before IIS.
months,
and the
neof thefc
inth froii)
ed at the
here, Mr.
purfuit of
it. Sparr-
icd under
ipcCook
to
to take him ■bourd 1 aod Mr. SfMraiui being willing
to cmbvk, the Uptain ccnTcmed 1 artd he was en-
gaged under Mr. Forfter, who bore his ekpcncis on
bwrd, and allowed him a yearly ftipend bclides. Mr.
Hodges alfu employed hintrdf in tskins views of the
Cape, town, and parts adiaccht, in oil colours 1 all
which were kd with Mr. Brandt, to be forwarded by
him to the admiralty, by the flrft (hip bound for Vjng-
land. ,
On the 1 8th of November we had got every thing on
board > but it wM the 3 ad before we could put ty fea.
In this interval the crews of both (hips were fervcdevtry
day with frclh beef, or mutton, new baked bread, and
what Quantity of greens they thought fuflicientt and
the two (hips, in every rclpcdl, were put in as good
condition as when they len England. At this time
fomc removes took place in the Adventure. 'I'hc firil
lieutenant, Mr. Shank, defircd leave to refign, in or-
der to n-ttirn to England for the recovery of his health,
which W.1S urantetl. Mr. Kemp was Appointed firft
lieutenant, and Mr. Burney, one of our midlhipmen,
Mas maiit fcctind lieutenant, in the room of Mr. Kemp.
On the i id we repaired on board, having firft taken
leave of tlic governor, and other olliccrs, u no in a molt
obliging manner had afforded us all the necefliiry af-
liOamc wc niiuired. At three o'clock, P. M. we
weighed, and (alutcd the fort with flftcen guns, which
compliment was inlhntly returned. We now ftood
all night to the weftward, toget clear of the land, du-
ring which time the fra made the fame luminous ap-
parance, which has been already, in the courfcofotir
ni(\ory, noticed and defcribed. As fuon as we had
cleared the land, we dircc'^ed ourcourfe, as ordered, to
Cape Circumcilion. We had a moderate pale from the
N. W. iwirtt until the s^th, when the wind fliiftcd to
ihc eal'wnrd. This day by obfcrvation, at noon, we
found ourfi'lvcs to be in .|$ deg. 15 min. S. lat. and 29
min. W. of the Cape of Good Hope. As wc wire now
directing our courfe toward the antar^ic circle, and ex-
pciilcd to encounter foon With cold weather, tSc Cap-
tain ordered a wade of frelh water to he a« much as
poITiblc prevented 1 at the fame time he fupplied each
man with a fearnought jacket, and trowfer^, allowed
by the Aiimiralty, and alfo flops to fuch who wanted
them. Obfcrving a great numocr of albatroflcs about
us, we put out hooks and lines, with which we caught
fcveral, and the (hip's company, though ferved with
mutton, rclifhed them ver>- much. On the 29th a
heavy (\orm came from the W. N W. with few inter-
vals of moderate weather, for nearly a week ; the fea
ran very high, and fretiucntly broke over the (hips.
On Sunday, December the ''th, wc were in lat. 48
dcg. 41 min. S. and in 18 drg. 24 min. E. longitude.
The rtonn continued, and the roaring of the waves,
together with hail, rain, and a great agitation of the
vcflll, w ere circumftances that rendered our (Ituation
cxtrcincly difagreeable. A boy in the fore part of our
(hip hearing a noife of water running among the chells,
turned out, and linind himfelf half way up the leg in
water ; upon which all hands worked at the pumpy, but
the water increafed upon us. This was at laA difco-
covercd to come in through a fcuttle in the boatfwain's
(lore-room. This gale, attended with hail and rain,
continued till the 8th, with fuch fury, that we could
tarry no fails ; and being driven by this means far to
the eaftward of our intentled courfe, not the leaft hope
remained of our reaching Cape Circumcifkm. Our
ilinrifs was augmented by the lofs of a great part of our
live RiKk wc had brought from the Cape. Every man
felt the ciVcdsof the fudden tranfition Kom warm to ex-
treme cold weather ; for which rcafon an addition was
made to the men's allowance of brandy in both (hips.
On the morning of the 7th, the rifing fun gave us a
flattering profpc(fl of fercne weather 1 out our expe^la-
tions foon vanifhed; the barometer wa* unufualiy low t
and by one o'clock P. M. the wind, which was at N. W.
blew with fuch violence as obliged us to ftrikc our lop-
gallant-mafts. On the 8th the gale was fomewhat
aliated { but the fea ran too high nr u
than the fore-top-inaft ftay-ftu.
No. 15.
tor us to carry more
dn Wedncitlay, the 9th, at three A. M. wc wore
(hip to thefouthWanl,fliowersof liiow fell withfqually
weather. At eight mdde fignal tor the Adventure td
make fail. On ine lOih made another (ignal for her to
lead, and faw ikTi ice-ifland to the we(\ward of vn. in
5odeg. 40 min. S. latitude, and a deg. IL lungitudeof
the Cape of Good Hope. I'he wcathn beinu hn/.v,
Qapt. Cook by flgnal called the Advcnt wc were obliged to ftand to the
northward, in order to avoid it. On the eighteenth
we got clear of the field of ice, but was carried among
3 I the
(1^
ia6
Opt. COOK'i VOYAGES COMPLETE.
'.»
!
the icc idamU, which it wai difticuU to kc«p clear of.
The danger to whicl« Hc were now cxpored, wainre-
lorable to being entangled among inimenfc iield« of ice.
'I'here were two men on tward tnc Kefbiutiiui, who had
been in the (ircenUnd trade i the one had bin nine
Meeki, and the other flx, (luck fall in a flcUl of ice.
That which n called a field of ice 'i very thick, an«i
ionlilU but of one piece, be it exd tiMzeiher, and in
ibmc pUces hciiKU u|)on each othei . How long fuch
ice nuy hu\c lain here, it rtot ealily deteimincd. In
the GrcenlaiMl Teas, fuch ice ii (inind all the fummer
long, and it cannot be colder there in fummer time
Chan it i« here. Upon the funpofition that this ice
which we Lurhccn fpeakinc of u generally foniied in
l)a>!i and rivcrit, ui iinaginca that land wat not far fmm
lu, and that the ice alone hindered our ipproaching it.
We therefore determined to fail to the eailward, and
afterward* to the lotah, and, ifwc met with no land or
impediment, there to get behind the ite, that this
matter might he put out of iloubt. We found the
weather much coluer, and all the crew complained of
it. Tlnife jackets which were mo Hiort were lengthen-
ed with baize, and etch of them had a cap nude of
the fame llulf, which kept them a.i warm a* the cli>
liMte would admit. .Scorbutic f)mptoms appearing on
foil of the jM'ople, the fiirgcons gave them frcfli wort
every day, made from the itialt we took with u« for
that nur)Mife.
VV e ftocxl once more to the fouthward on the t wenty-
fccond inftant. On the twenty>third, ue hoided out
a boat to make fuch experiment!) as were thought nc*cef-
fary. We examined fevcrul fpeciei of birds, which
we had Ihot as they hovered tound ui with Cceming
curiolity.
On the twenty-fifth, lieing Chridnus-day, we were
very chearful, and notwithllanding the furmundinj
rocks of ice, the failors fpent it in favage noife am
drunkenncfs. On the twcnty-fixth, wc failed through
Urge ouantitica of broken ice. Wc were dill furround-
cd with idands, which in the evening appeared very
beautiful, the edges being tinged by the letting fun.
Wc were now in latitude 5)1 deg. 31 min. S.
On the twcnty-feventh we had a dead calm, and we
devoted the opnortunity to fliooting petrcla and pen-
guins. This atiorded great fport, though we were un-
hiccefsful in our chacc of pei^ins. Wc were obliged
to (rive over the purfuit, as the birds dived fo frequent-
ly,' and continued fo long under water. We at lall
wounded one repeatetlly, out waj forced finally to kill
it with a ball; its hard gloffing plumage having con-
ftantly turned the (hot a(idc. The plunugc of this
bird is very thick, the feathers long and narrow, and
lie as clofe as fcalct. Thcic amphibious birds are thus
fcctired againft the wet, in which they almoll continual-
ly live. Nature has likcwiTc given them a thick (kin,
in order to refill the perpetual winter of thcfe inhofpi-
table climates, llic penguin wc (hot weighed eleven
|N)unds and a half. The petrels arc likcwifc well pro-
V ided againll the feverity of the weather. Thcfe latter
have an adonilliing quantity of feathers, two feathera
inftcad of one proceeding out of every root. Glad were
wc to be thus employed, or indeed to make any mo-
mentary rcHectiotu on any fubjcd, that we might in
tome mcafurc change that gloomy uniformity in which
we fo (lowly palTcd our time in thcfe delblatc and un-
frequented feas. We had conHant ditagrccable wea-
ther, confiding of thick fc^s, rain, fleet, hail, and
fnow ; wc were furroundcd with innumerable quantities
of ice, and were in conftant danger of being fplit by
them i add to w hich, we were forced to live upon fait
provifioits, which concurred with the weather to infofl
our mafs of blood. Our Teamen coming fre(h from
Englaml did not yet mind thefe fcverities and fatigue,
their fpirits kept them above repining at them {l}ut
amoi^ IbnK ot us a wi(}i prevailed to exchange our
lituation for a happier and more temperate one. The
crew were well fupplicd with portable broth and (bur
krout, which had the dclired ciredl in keeping them
from the (curvy. I'hc habit of body in one nuui wu
not to be relieved by thofe rx|Kdicnrt, but he was curri
by the conllaiu ufe of frefli wort. This ufettil remedy
ought never to be forgoiirn in ttthn hotmd on long
voyages, or the encomiums on the eincacy of malt can-
not be exaggerated t great! are miifl Jlfo be taken toprr-
vent its becoming damp and iiMiuldv.fiir if it is futteied
to do fo, its lalutary qualities will occoaie impaired in
a long v"yage.
On f' . 29th, the commanders came to a rcfulution,
provided they met with no impediment, to run at far
weA as Cape Circunuriflon, ilnce the fca fcemed to be
Erctty clear of ice, and the dillanre not more than eighty
lagues. We (leered for an illand of ice this day, in-
tending to take fome on hoard, and convert it into frcfh
water. On this illand we faw a great number of pcn-
giiins. The light of thefe birds is faid to Ik a fiire in-
dication of the vicinity of land. This may hold gofxl
where there are no ice idaiuls, but not fo when tnere
arc any, for there they liml a reding place. We will
n It detenuine whether there are any females among
thrm at fo great a didance from land, or whether they
go tin (bore to breed.
On the ,)id, we dood for this ifland again, but rould
not take up any of the loofe ice, fbr the w ind incrcafed
fo conliderably, as tu make it dangerous for the diips to
remain among the icci befides which, wc difcovered
an immenfe Field of ice to the north, extending fur-
ther than the eye could reach. We had no time tu
deliberate, at we were nut aliovc two or three milet
from it.
On the I d of January, the gale abated, . r^
but there fell a good deal of fnow .ind licet, '*• "' '"'3*
which froze on the rigging of the fliips. The wind
continued moderate the next day, and we were favour-
ed with a light of the nwion, whofc face we h.id not
feen dnce we left the Cauc of fioore ice, at did the Ad-
venture. Some perfona on board, who were ignorant
of natural philoTophy, were very much afraid tnat the
unmelted tee, which wat kept in calkt, when the wea-
ther altered, would diflbive and burd the caflti in which
it was packed, thinking that, in its melted date it would
uke up more room than in its frozen one. In order to
undeceive them, Capt. Cook placed a little pot of
damped ice in a temperate cabbin, which, a* it gra-
dually.
COt)K'i SECONH VOY AOR— for mnkinnnifcovertei in the Smtth Sttt ft Round ihe H^er/J. 177
[ids, which
wc came
about it.
u to, and
icy could,
rtcr-dcck,
ncited, wc
little fait
this pro-
ic melting
xpcditioui
obfcrvcd
In two
the Ad.
ignorant
that the
the wca-
I in which
:e it would
n order to
dc pot of
u it gra-
dually,
diMllydiflblvcd. look up much left fp«t« than brfiMre.
Thit wa* a convincing wgunKni. *nd their (can of
thia brt fubfldcd, Aa wc hmi now revcral Ane daya,
we had frequent opportunitica of nuking obfcrvationi,
•nd trying caperimwKa, which were very ferviccable
to ui on many accounu. The ucople likewife took
ihc opportunity of walhiiw their cloatha in freih water,
which i« very neceflary In long voyage*.
On the 17th, before noon, wc cmiFcd the ^ntarftic
ririlc) and advanced into the fouthem frigid rone,
which to M tbrmcr naviptora had remained im|)ene>
trable. We could fee uvenl leaguci armmd u>, at
the weather was tolciablv clear. In the al'ternoon we
faw the whole fra coveivu with ice, from S. E. to S. W.
Wc faw a new fuecift of the petrel, of a brown colour,
with a white belly and rump, and a large white fpot on
the wingt 1 we faw great flight* of tnrm, but never
any of them fell into the (hip*. Wc calleil it the An-
tar^tit petrel, at fuch numberi of ihciii were fecn
licrcabcMiti.
In the afternoon we faw thirtv-cigiu ice IHand*, large
andfniall. Thit immenfe field wai comiMtfrd of dif-
ferent kindt «jf ice I fuch a« ficld-ici-, ai foiallctl by
the Grernlandmcn, and packrd ice. line wc faw
fevcral whalea playing ahimit the ice, :inrc rcfolved to do
dircdiy tn fcarch < f the land lately difcovend by the
French.
On the iQth, in the evening, wc faw a bird, which
in Capt. Cook't fonner voyaf^ wat called the Port
Egmont hen 1 fo called, bccaiiCc there arc great num-
bers of them to be fcen at Port llgmont m Falkland
iflandt. They arc about the (i/.e of a laige crow, Ihort
and thick, ot a chocolate colour, with a white fpeck
under each wing, lliofc birdt arc faid never to go
far from land 1 and we were induced from this circum-
flancc to hope that land wat near, but we were difap-
E Dinted; ihc ice iflandt had probably brought thit bird
ither.
On the 3 1 ft, we faw white albatroflcs with black tipped
wings. On the 39th. fevcral porpoifcs paflcd us with
anuiing fwifuwfsi thev had a large white fpot on
their fioca, which came atmolt up to their backs. They
went at leaft three timet as iad as our >c(rcls, ami
wc wcntat the rate of fcvcn knou and a half an hour.
On the 31ft, w« paflcd a Urge ice ifland, which at the
lime of our failinji by wu tumbling to piecet. The ex-
plofion equalled uwt of a cannon.
On the I ft of February, wc faw large quantities of
fea weed floating by ,thc fliipt. Capt. Fumcaux ac-
Juainted Capt. Cook, that he had Icen a number of
ivers. which very much refemblcd thofe in the Englifti
feas, and likewile a large bed of floating rock-wced.
Thefe were certain fignt of the vicinity orland t but we
could not tdl whether it waa to the E. or W. Wc
imagined that ik> land of any extent lay
- - ■ - - ■ ' • N. K.
to theW.
bccalife the fca ran fo high from the N. fv N. N. W.
and W. we therefore ftrercn to the K. lay to in the nighr.
and rcfumed our courfc in the morning. We faw two
or three egg birds, and palTed fevcral pieces of rot k-
weed, but no other llgns of land. Wc fleered north*
ward, and made flgnal for the Adventure to follow, a«
ftie was rather thrown aftem by her movement to the
eaftward. V^> could not find land In that dirc^ion,
and we au.n . ftrcred fouthward. There was an ex-
ceeding thick fog on the 4th, on which wc loft fight
of the Adventure. We fired fevcral fignaU, but were
not anfwerrit 1 on which account we had too much reafon
to think that a feparation had taken plai c, though we
could not well tell w hat had been the caufe of it. Capt.
Cook had directed Capt. Fumcaux, in cafe of a repara-
tion, to cruize three days in that place he laft faw the
Refolution. Capt. Cook accordingly made ft)ort boards,
and flred half hour guns till the afternoon of the 7th,
when the weather cleared up. and the Adventure wat
not to be fcen in the limits of that horizon. Wc were
obliged to lie to till the loth, and notwithftanding we
kept firing guns, and burning fatfc fires all night, we
neither faw nor heard any thing of the Adventuro, and
were obliged to make fail without her, which was but
a difinal profpciit, for we were now expofcd to the
danger of the frozen climate without the company of
our fcllow-voyagcrs, which before had relieved our
fpirits, when wc confidcred that we were not entirely
alone in cafe we loft our own velTel. The crew univer-
fally regretted the loft of the Adventure 1 and they fcl-
dom looked around the ocean without cxprcfTing fome
concern that we were alone on this unexplored expanfr.
At this time we had an opportunity of feeing what we
ha leave them on the approach of night ; but before wc
parted Mrs. Talkative gave us a dance.
On the feventh we nude them another vifit, and prc-
icnted them with feveral things; but they beheld ever/
thing with indifference, except hatchets and fpike nails.
Wc now faw all the man's family, as wc fuppofed,
which confided of two wives, the young woman wc
mentioned before, a boy about fourteen years old, and
three fiiiali children. Excepting one woman (who
3
p L e. T E.
had a large v en upoii Ker "npcr"Tip), they were
well favoured t oi\ account of her dilagreeable appear-
ance, (he fceiTwd to be Mgled^ by the nun. We
were conduced to their habitation, which conf)fted of
two mean huts, (ituated near thi; (kirts of a wood.
Their canOe lay in a fmall crJH^. near the huts, and
watjull ^rgc enough totranfport tne whole family from
Stace to place. A gentleman of our party made
Letches of thena. which occafioned their calling him
Toe-Toe t which, it feems; Is a word which ftgnlfin
marking or painting. On taking leave, the man prc-
fcntcd Capt. Cook with fbme triflei, and a piece of
cloth of tncir own manufadure t And pointed to a boat
ct9ak, which he wiflied to have. The hint was taken,
and one Was ordered to be made for him of red baize.
On the 9th wc paid the natives another vific, and (igni-
fied our approach by hallooing to them t but they nei-
ther met us on (hore, nor anfwercd usasufual; the
rcafon of which was, that their time was fully occupied
in drcfTIng themfelves to receive us. They had tneir
hair combed and oiled, (luck with white feathers, and
tied upon '.he crowns of their heads, and had bunches
of feathers fluck in their ears. N\'e were received bjr
them w ith great courtcly in their drefs. The man was
fo well pleafcd with the prcfent of the cloak, that hp
took his i\uta-patue from his fide, and gave it to C.ipt.
c ook. VVc cpntinued here a little time, and took leave,
fpcndmgthc reft of the day infurvcying the bay.
On Monday the twelfth this family paid usa villt ii\
their canne, but proceeded with caution as they ap-
proached the lliip. Wc could not by any means per-
i'uadcthcm to come on board, but put ainure in a little
creek near us, and fat themfelves down near enough to
fpeak to us. Capt. Cook ordered the bagpipes to play,
and the drum to beat ; the latter only they regarded.
They converfcd very familiarly (though not w cll undcr-
llood) Mith fuch oiliccrs and feamen as went to them,
and paid a much greater regard to fome than to others ;
we fuppofed that they took fuch for women. One of
the females (hcwetl a remarkable fondnefs for one man
in particular, until Ihc fouml out his fex ; after which
(he would not let him approach her. Wc cannot tell
whether (he had Ix-forc taken him for a female, or whe-
ther, in difcovering himfelf, he had taken forac liber-
ties w ith her. In the evening the natives of Dullcy Bay
took up their quarters very near our wafering-place,
which was a clear proof that they placed a great deal of
confiilence in us, We rafTed two or three days in exa-
mining the bay and inaKing nereffary experiments and
obfervations. Wc likcwife (hot great quantities of wild
fowl.
On Monday the nineteeth, the mail and his daugh-
ter before- mentioned ventured on board our fliip, while
the left of the family were fidiing in the canoe. Be-
fore the man would com^ into the (hip, he ftruck the
fide of it with a green branch, and muttered fome
words, which we took for a prayer; after which he
threw away the branch and came on board. We were
at hreakfaft, but could not prevail on them to partake
with us. 'liiey viewed every pArt of the cabin w ith ap-
parent curiofity and furprifr ; but wc could not fix the
man's attention to any one thing for a moment. A II w c
fticwcd him feeiiied beyond his conipreheiilion, and the
works of nature and art were alike reganicd. The
ftrcngth and number of our decks and other parts of
the fhip feemcd toftrike him with furprife. The man
was Aill bttter pleafed with hatchets and fpike-nailsthan
any thing our fhip produced ; when he had once gut
poffefTion of thefc, he would not quit them. Capt.
Cook and three other gentlemen left the fliip as foon ba
they could difengagc themfelves from the viliton,whnm
they left in the gun-room, and went out in two boats to
examine the head of the bay ; at which place they took
up their night's lodging; the next dav they continued
their obiicrvations ; and fired at fome aucks. Upon the
report of the gun, the natives, who had not difcovercd
themfelves before, fet up a moft hickous roar in diftc-
rent places. The gentlemen hallooed in their turn,
and retreated to their boats. The natives did nor fol-
low thcn>, ncithet indeed could they, bccaufe a brat^K
cook's SECON D VOYAGE— for making Di/ccvtrits in the South Seas & Round the World, 129
(covered
in ditTc-
icir turn,
nor fol-
abrwKli
or
or (he river feparateJ them, but ftill made a great
noife. , A* they continued (hooting and making their
obfervaiions, they frequently heard the nativci in 'he
woods. A man and woman appeared :>. laft on i^e
banks of the river, waving fomething in their hands as
ft token of friend(hip. The gentlemen could not get
near them, and the natives retreated into the woods.
Two others appeared ; but as the gentlemen advanced,
they retreated likewife, and the woods afforded them
thiflt cover. The captain and his party paiTcd the
next night in the fame place, and after breakfaft cm-
barked to return on board j but faw two men on the
oppofitc fliore, who hallooed to them, and they were
induced to row over to them. Capt. Cook with two
other gentlemen landed unarmed, and advanced all to-
S ether, hu: the natives retreated, nor » ould they (land
ill till Capt. Cook went up alone, li was with fomc
dillknlty that he prevailed on one of them to lay down
his fpear 3 at laft he did it, and met the captain with a
grofs plant in his hand, giving Capt. Cook one end
to hold whiKt he himfclf held the other. In this po-
sition they IUx)d while the native made a fpccch, which
the captain did not underhand, but returned feme fort
of anmcr ; they then falutcd each other, and the na-
tive took his coat from his back, and put it on the cap-
tain. The Captain prcfcnted each of them with a
hatchet and a knife, having nothing elfe with him.
They invited the gentlemen to their habitation, and
wanted them to eat, but the tide preventet'. their ac-
cepting of this invitation. More people appeared in
the (kirts of the woods, but did not approach any
nearer. The two natives accompanied thi.- gentlemen
to their bo.its, but feemcd very much agitated at the
appearances oi the mufqucts, which they looked upon
as inftnmicnt!, of death, on account of the (laughter
they had ohfcr\rd among the fowls. It was ncceflary
to watch thcin, for they laid their hands on every
thing except the mufqucts. They alTiAed the feamen
in launching the boat. It did not appearthat theyhad
any boats or canoes with them, but ufed two or three
logs of wood tied together, which anfwered the fame
purpofcs i for the navigation of the river, on the banks
of which they lived, was not very difficult, and fwarm-
cd w ith iilh and Ibul. We apprehend that all the na-
tives of thiK bay did not exceed more than three fami-
lies, litis party took leave of the man about noon ;
ami in the evening returned to the (hip, when they
found that the vilitors had (laid on board till noo.it that
he and his tainily remained near them till that day, and
went into the woods, after which they were never feen 5
this appcADi rather extraordinary, as they never went
away without fome prcfcnt. Several parties were
made in order to catch feals, which were very ufcful for
Idotl, (iir oil, an.! their (kins were cured (or rigging.
'I he Hclh of tJieiii is nearly as good as beef-(lcaks, and
their entrails are equal to thofc of a hog. We likewife
took thi' funuuit of the mountains in this bay, and
iiade oiher reiti:\rkx.
t)n Saturday the twenty-fourth Capt. Cook took five
pcefe and a gander, which were .ill that remained of
ihofe broiigl.t Irom the Ooe of Ckwd Hope, and car-
ried them to a cove, which on this account he called
goofe-oove ; this was a convenient place, for they were
Bot likcl) to l)c diHurbed by the inhabitanu, there was
plentv ol tbod lor them, and they were likely here to
breed and f^H tad the lountry with their fpccies. We
had now fevcr.il d.i; s fair weather, which gave us a (inc
opportunity of nuking necedary preparations for de-
parture.
On Tiicfdav the twenty -fevtnth we found an arm of
the fea more convenient than that by which we entered
the bay ; we fliot fevcr.il due k<, and were much pleafed
with the day's ex|)editioii. All we now wa-ted (or was
wind to carry us out of harNnir bv the new paiTage we
had difcovered. The tents an 1 all other articles were
got on boanl. The rubbidi wc hail made on (horc,
which conliftcd chiefly of pieces of wood. &c. we frt
gn (ire in order to dry the ground, which being done,
Vapt. Cook fcwcil the fpot with various forts of garden
IcMjf. 'Ihis WIS the bcH plate we could find to place
No. ij. '
them in. We made feveral efforts to fail, but the wind
proving c<)ntrary we made but little way, and were
obliged to anchor on the firft of May on the north fide of
Long I Hand. Here we found two huts with fire places,
which appealed to be lately inhabited. Capt. Cook
was deuined on botrd by a cold, and fent a party to
explore an arm of the fea which turns in to the cad.
This party found a good anchoring place, with plenty
of w ild fowl, fifh, and frelh water. We made icvcral
(hooting parties when the wind would not pcmiit us to
fail. Before we leave Du(ky Bay, we think it necef-
fary to give our readers fome defcription of it.
There arc two entrances to this Bay, w hich are by
no means dangerous 1 and there are numerous anchor-
ing places, which are at once (afe and comm(xliou.s t
at Cafcade Cove, fo called on account of the magnili-
cent cafcade near it, is room (or a fleet of lhi|w, and a
very good pafliigc in and nut. 1'hc country is very
mountifinous, and the profiled is rude and craggy.
The land bordering on the ka-coafl, and all m laiitis,
are covered with wood. There arc trcen of various
kinds which are common in other countries, the rjin-
ber of which is remarkably fine. Here arc likewife a
great number of aromatic plants, and the w 01 :1s are
k> over-run with fupple jacks, that it is dilHcult to make
way through them. The foil is undoubtedly coiiipofed
of decayeuv^tables, which make a deep black mould ;
it is very loolc, and finks at every Hep. This may be
the reafon why there are fo many large trees blown
down as wc meet with in the woods. Except flax and
hemp, there is very little herbage. The Hay abounds
with fi(h, which wc caught in great numbers. Seals
are the only amphibious animals to be found nerc, but
there are great numbers of them. Various kinds of
ducks are to be found, as well as all other wild fowl.
Here is likewife a bird which we called the wattlcbiid,
becaufe it has two wattles under its beak like thofc of a
dunghill cock. Its bill is Ihort and thick, its feathers
arc dark, and is about the fize of an Englilh black-
bird. I'his wc called the poy-bird, on account of two
little tults of curled hair which hang under its throat,
called its poics, which is the Otaheitan word for ear-
rings. The feathers of this bird arc of a fine maza-
rine blue, except thofe of his neck, which arc of a
filvergrcy. The fweetnefs of its note is equal to the
beauty of its plumage ; its flefh is likewife luxurious
food, though it is a great pity to kill them.
The fmall black (imd flie< arc here vciy numerous
and troublefomc; they carfe a fwelling and intolerable
itching wherever they bite. Another evil attemling
this bay is the almnfl continual rains that fall, but hap-
pily our people felt no il! etfedU from them. 'I lie
place muft certainly be healthful, as thofe of our crew ,
who were in any degree indifoofed when wc came in,
recovered fjKcdily.
The inhabitants of Dulliy Bay are the fame with
thofe in other parts of New Zealand -, they fpeak the
fame language, and adopt the fame culloiiis. It is
not eafy to divine what could induce thcfo few fainilie*
to fcparate thcmfelves from the fociety of the reft of
their fellow-creatures. It feems probable that there are
people fcattered all over this fouthcrn illand, by our
meeting with inhabitants in this place. 1 hey appear
to lead a wandering life, and don't fecin to be in pr:^-
fofl amity with each other.
On Tuefday the nth of May, we again made il,
but met with more obllnie'Hons. Wc obicrved on i fud-
('.■n a whitilh fixx on the (ca, out of w hich a column
aTofe which looked like a glafs tube. It appeared that
^ixxher of the fame fort came down from the clouds
to nKCt this, and they made a coalition and formed
what is called a watcr-fpout 1 (cveral others were fbnr:-
ed in the fame mannei foon after. As we were not
very well acquainted with the nature and caufcs of thefe
fpouts, we w ere very curious in examining them. Their
baf^e was a broad fpot, which looked bright and yel-
lowilh when the fun (hone upon it; this appeared when
the fe& was violently agitateti, and vapours rofc in a
fpiral form. The columns were like a cylinder, and
moved forward on the furface of the fea, and frequently
3 K appeared
n^
.f'
'■ ' \'
M
It'
I30
Capt. COOK'S VOYAGES COMPLETE.
R. ]
'»#
i
'i;
IttJi
Bppcaml croning each other, ihry at h(i broke one
Ktttr another, thit «'as owing to the i louJs nut InlloM -
inj; them with equal rapidity. I'hc fca appeared more
and more covered with (nort bn>kcn waves as the
clouds rame nearer to us; the wind vccnd about, and
did not fix in any one point. Within 3oo fathoms of
us, we faw a fpot in the Tea in violent agitation ; the
water afccndcd in a fpiral form towards the clouda ;
the clouds looked bkck and louring, and foine hail
(tones fell on board. A cloud gradually tapered into a
long (lender tube direifUy over the agitated fpot, and
fcemcd dcfcending to meet the riling fpiral, and foon
united with it. The la(\water>fpout broke like others,
no explofinn was heard, but a flalli of lightning attend-
ed this disjuniftion. The oldcll mariners en Ixiard had
never been fo near water-fpouti before, they were there-
(brc ver>' much aLrmed . Had «vc been drawn into the
vortex, it was generally believed that our mads and
yards mull have gone to wreck. From the (irft ap-
pearance, to the Lid difTolution, was three quarters of
an hour.
On May the 1 8th, at five o'clock in the morning, we
opened Queen Charlotte's Sound, and faw three fla(hes
arifing from a ilrong hold of the natives. We inugin-
ed them to tic (ign.ils of the EurAi)cans, and probably
of our old friends in the .Adventure ; when wc fired
fomc guns. Me were anfwcrcd, and in a Ihort time faw
the Adventure at anchor. We were faluted by Capt.
Furneaux with 13 guns, which we very chcarfully re-
turned ; none candcHribethe joy wc feit at this nioft
happy meeting.
As it mufl be plcafing to our Stibfcribers and Readers,
whofc generous encouragement wc gratefully ac-
knowledge, and it being our intention, in return, to
render this work as complete, in every rcf|)cft. as
potnbic, we here prcfent them w ith a Narrative of
Capt. Furncaux's proceedings, and of the various
incidents that happened, during the fcparation of
the two Ihips, to their joining again in Queen Char-
lotte's Sound ; with fomc account of Van Dicmcn's
Land.
A D mi nr HE Adventure, on Sunday the 4th
■ ''>»■ X of February, after having loftfight of
the Kcfulution, in a very thick fog, had no other means
of again meeting with her, but by cruizing in the place
were they parted company, or by repairing to Char-
lotte Bay, the tirft appointed place of rendezvous, in
cife ftich a misfortune Hiould hapncn. Soon after their
fcparation, the j»coplc of the Adventure heard a gun,
the report of which they judged to be on the laiboard
bea.ii; upon which, they hauled up S. E. and fired a
four iKiui.der every half hour; but receiving no return,
nor light of their companion, they kept the courfc they
h.id llcerc; before the fog came on. In the evening
it began to blow hard. The ftorm was attended witn
a pr(Kligious fall of r.iin, every drop of the li/.c of a
roiiiiuoii pea; and the fca broke over the ihip's bo>«s
to the height of the yard arms; yet, at interval', the
weather Mas more clear; but at thcfe lavnurable op-
portunities, they could not fee their ^^i^lcd for object,
the Hcfi)hiti«)n, which gave them many moments re-
plete with inexpiiiilible uncafmcfs. They then Hood to
the weUwaril, to cruize in the latitude where they laft
faw her, according to agreement, in cafe of fcparation ;
but the rtorm returned with renewed fury, and the
weather being again exceeding hazy, they wetc com-
(>elled to bring to, uhich unroward circumftance pre-
vented tiKin from reaching the intended place ; how-
ever, they cnii'/.cd as near the fame as they could for
three days, when, after having kept beating about the
tii, in the mud terrible weather that any Ihip could
poflibly endure, and giving all hopes over of joining
their loll conipanion, they bore away for winter-quarters,
1400 leagues didant from them; and, having to travcric
a fca entirely unknown, they took every precaution lor
their fafcty, and reduced the allowance of water to one
quart a day (i>r each fcaitKin. On the the Hth, they
kept between the kitiludc ^i .mnt that they come into this bay from
their wigwams or huts, which are formed of boughs,
either broken, or fplit, and tied together w ith grafs :
the larg^ft ends are uuck in the ground, and the (inaller
are brought to a point at the top ; making the whole of
a circular form, which is covered with fern or bark, in
the middle of which is the fire-place, furrounded ,/ith
heap* of mufclc, pear fcallop, and cray-fifh (hells.
In one of their huts we found the ftone they ftrike fire
with, and fome tinder made of the bark of a tree. In
others of their wigwams were one of their fpears, (harp
at one end, with fome bags and nets made of gra(s,
which contained, we imagine, their ,>rovifions and
other nece(raries. We brought inoft of thofc things
away, leaving in their room medals, pun- flints, a few
nails, and an old iron-hooped empty barrel. The huts
of thcfc people fecmed to be built only for a day, the
workmanlhip being fo (lender, that they will hardly
keep out a (hower of rain. The inhabitants lie on the
ground, on dried grafs, round their fires. They \v.in-
tv about, in fmall parties, from one place to another
in fearch of food, the chief end of their exiftencc;
and, from what wc could judge, they arc altogether
an ignorant, wretched race of mortals, though natives
of a country capable of producing every necelfary of
life, and a tiimate the fineft in the world. Having
got on Iward our wood and water, wc failed out of Ad-
venture Bay, intending to coa(\ it, with a view (>f dif-
covering whether Van Diemcn's Land is part of New
Holland.
On 'I'licfday the i6th, we paflTcd Maria's Iflandj:,
and on the 1 7th Schouten's, when we hauled in for thi
main land, and ftood off two or three leagues along
ihorc. Here the country appeared well inhabited, and
the land level ; but we diJcovercd not any ligns of a
harbour or bay, wherein a Oiip might anchor with
fafcty. 'Ihe land in lat. 40 dcg. coniin S. trends to
the wtftward, and from this latitude fo that of 39 deg.
50 niin. is nothing but iflands and (hoals ; the land ap-
pearing high, Rxky, and barren. Wc now ft(K)d to
the northward, and again nwde lan(l piudent to leave the toaft,
and make the bell of his way for New Zealand.
On thi- 24th, having left Van Diemen's land, a very
fcvere fijuall reduced us to reefed courfts. We
Ibipped manv waves, one of which ftove the large cut-
ter, an 1 with much difficulty we prevented the fmall
one from being walhed over-noaid. After this heaw
gale, which continued twelve hours, we had more tem-
perate weather, actompanicil with calms. At length
we made the coaft of Nlcw Z^land in 40 deg. 30 min.
S. latitude, having nin tw.;nty-four deg. of loijgitude
from Adventure Bay, in a palTage of fifteen days. When
we firft camcin fight of land, it appeared high, f(^rm-
ing a confided group .if hills and mountains. We
(tiered along fliore to the northward, but our courfe
was much retarded by the fwcll from the N. \i.
On .Saturday, Apnl the 3d, at fix o'clock, A. M.
w« dvfcricd land, which .ipon a nearer approach wc
knew to be that which lies between Rock Point and
Cape Farewell, fo named by Capt. Cook, when on
his return ^m his la(l voyage, c ape Farewell, the
fouth point of the entrance of the well fide of the
(traits, bore E. by N. half N. three or four leagues
dilYant. Sunday, the 4th, wc continued our courfe,
and (^ood to the eadward for Charlotte's Sound. On
Monday, the 5th, we worked up to windward under
Point JackfOn. From Stephen's liland to this point,
the coutfe is nearly S. E, difiance eleven leagues. Wc
fired feveral guns while (landing ofl^ and on, but faiv
not any inhabitants. At half pad rwO P. M. we an-
chorea in thirty-nine fathoms water, muddy ground ;
Point Jackfon being S. E. half E. three leagues. At
eight we weighed and made fail. Tuefday, the 6th, at
eight o'clock A. M. had the Sound open, and worked
up under the wedern (bore. At ten came to, clofe to
fome white rocks, in thirty-eight fathoms, and on the
7th anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms water, and
moored the bed bower to the N. N. E. In the night
heard the howling of dogs, and people hallooing on the
cad (bore. Capt. F'urneaux now ordered the large cut-
ter to be manned, and fent her, with & proper guard,
toexamine, whether there wcrcjiny figns of the Refo-
lution having arrived at that harbour. The boat re-
turned, witnout the lead difcovcry, but that of the
pod, ere(fled by the Endeavour's people, on the top
of a hill, with her name and time of her departure in
1 770. Upon this, wc indantly prepared to fend the
tents a(horc, for the accommodation of thofe who were
afflided with the fcuny ; w hilc fuch who enjoyed health
were very alert in catching fi(h, which proved of great
fervice in recovering our fick, to whom frelh provitions
were both food and phyfic.
On Friday, the 9th, three canoes came along-fidc
the Adventure, having fifteen Indians of both fexes,
all armed with battle axes, and with other oReniive
weapons made of hard wood, in the form of our of-
ficers fponiooni, about four feet in lenu;th ; but they
had neither bows n»r arrows. A kiniT of mat was
wrapt round their (houlders, and tied about their
waids with a girdle made of grafs. Doth men and
women exhibited a mod favage appearance, and were
very unwilling to venture on board. The Captain
made them prefcnts, and by (igns invited them to
trade. They accepted the prefcnts, and fome of them
alfumcd courage enough to trud theinfelves on deck.
One of our gentlemen, feeing fomething wrapt up,
had the curiolny to examine what it was, when, to his
great furpri/.e, he found it to be the head of a man,
which, by its bleeding, feemed to be frelh cut off.
As Capt. Cook had expreded his abhorrence of fuch
unnaivral ads, the Indians were very apprehenlive of
its being forced from them, and the man, to whom it
tjclonged, trembled for fear of being puniflicd. They
therefore, with furprizing dexterity, in order to con-
ceal the head, diifred it from one to another, till it was
conveyed out of fight ; endeavouring, at the fame
time, 10 convince us by figns, that no fiich thing was
in their polTcllion. They then left the diip, and went
on (hore, not without fome vilible fi ns of difpk-afure.
In this vifit they often mentioned '^^ . name of Tupia,
and upon being infonned he died at Bat.ivia, fome of
them with much concern enquired •.vhether wc killed
him, or if he died a natural death. By thcfc c]uif-
tions, wc concluded thefe Indians were fome ol the
fame tribe who had vifited the EnJca\our'i >-ompnny.
They returr.id in the afternoon, with filli and fern
roots, which they bartered for nails, to thcni the mod
valu.iblc articles j but the man and woman w ho had the
head were not anwng them. Having i\ csralogtie of
wonis in their language, we called fevcral ihing.s by
name, at which they iccmed much fiirprizcd, and of-
fered a quantity of filh iot the catalogue. On Satur-
day the lOth about eight in the nwrning, five double
canoes came along-fiae the Adventure, with aliout
filiy Indians, at the head of whom was their chuf Wc
purthafcd of them, for nails, and bottles, their imple-
ments of war, done hatchets, cloth, &c. upon ^'Adx
tliey fet a high price. Several of their head men raraa
on
*.i.
':i\
V)
^.
131
Capt. COOK '8 VOYAGES COMPLETE.
i ,11*
■ t .
tt
:j t*
ir . f
*.
fii
oh tKMrd, nor would cliey quit the (hip by fair meant (
but u(>on prcfcnting a niufquet with a bayonet Hxcd,
they quickly took leave of us, feeniingly in uttit good
humour ; and atb rwards they viliccd us daily, bringina
with them lilh in abundance, which they exchanged
for nails, beads and other tritlcs. They behaved quite
peaceably, and, having difpofcd of their caigoci, de-
parted at all times, fcemincly, well pleafed. We now
placed a guard on little ilTand, which, at low water,
IS joined to Mortuara, called the Hippah, at which
place was an old fortified tow n, that had been aban-
doned by the natives. We took poflcflion of their
houfes, and by finking a fort within fide, nude them
very (omfortahle. Here our aftronomer crctftcd his eb-
fervatory ; at the fame time wc tlruck our tents on
Mortuara ; and having run farther into the cove with
the fliip, we moored her for the winter, on the weft
fhore, and gave her a winter coat to prcfcrvc her hull ;
then after lending adiorc the fpars and lumber of the
decks to be caulked, wc pitched our tents near the
river, at the watering-place.
On Tuefday, the 1 1 th of May, fcvcral of our crew,
who were at work on (horc, very fenfiWy felt thefltock
uf an earthquake, froi;i which circumftance wc think
it probable, that there are volcanos in New Zealand, as
thefc pha-noniena generally go together. On the 1 3th,
the weather continuing fair, and the Indians friendly,
the Captain and oHlccrs were preparing to go afliore,
when about nine A. M. no left than ten canoes came
padling down the .Sound. Wc counted one hundred
and twenty natives all armed. When along-lidc of the
(hip, they cxprcllcd a dclirc to be admitted on board;
but Capt. Furncaux, not liking their looks and gef.
turt^i, g;u c orders, that a few only fhould be admitted
at a time. 'Ihcfc behaved fo diforderly that thcfailors
were obliged to turn them out, and it now appeared
plainly 'hat the intentions of our vifitors were to make
thtmlclvts mailers oi the iliip ; however, (inding the
crew to be upon their guard, they became more civil,
but not lulore a j^rcat gun was difcharged over their
headii, which alone intimidated them. Ik'ing thus re-
duced to order, the people on board pnxluced fevcral
articlds, fuch as beads, fmall clafp knives, IcilFars,
iloth, paper, and other triries, which they bartered
liir hattif axes, fpeais, weapons of various Ibrts, (ifh-
hooks, and otiicr curiolitics, the manufacture of the
country. Ik-ing \i(ibly liifappointcd in the execution
of their grand dclign, they KK>k to their canoes, all
gabbling together in a language, a word of which no
line on board could underllaml : but previous to their
#i-parturc, the capisin and oilicers made prcfcnts to
thole among them \\ho appeared to Ix: their chiefs,
wimh they accepted with great apparent fatisfasH ion.
I'hree months wen- now elapfed linrc the Adventure
\fi\} light of the Rifolution ; but on the 17th ihc was
Ifci) at Jackfon Point. We immediately fent out boats
to her allillance, it bciiv^ calm, to tow her into the
Sound. In the evening llie anchored about a iiule
nitluiut Us, and next morning weighed and uarped
\uihm u.i. The pleal'ure the ihips companies telt at
meeting can only be conceived by thofc who have been
in like circumltances, each were as eager to relate as
the others were to hear. Having thus related the pro-
grcl's of the Adventure, we now come to record the
rranlactions of both (hips after their iuncltion. It were
•little more than a rejictition of the Adventure's dillrelles
to reiap;.ulatc the elleots of the boilkrous weather that
were felt by the crew of the Refolution ; txring fomc-
timcs furroundcd with iflanJs of ice, out of which they
could onK extricate thenifclves In' the utmod exertion
of ihcir IkiU in fcaiiianfliip, (()metimes involved in
llicets of licet and fnow, anil in mirts fo dark, that a
man on the forecalUe eould no: be fccn from the quar-
ter ileck ; fumctimcs the fca rolling mountains high,
while the runninj^t.Kkle. made biittK by the feverity of
the froft, was frequently fnapping, and fomctimcs rcn-
ilercd immoveable. Amidit the hardlliips of fuch a
intvcrfe, there is nothing more a(b)ni(hing, than that
tjie crew (hould continue in perfcit health, (carcc a man
being lo ill u to be incapable of duty. Nothing can
I
li
redound mon/ to the honour of Capt. Cook, than Ihh
paying Lortii^uUr attention to the prefcrvation of health
amftng his company. By obferving the ftridleQ difci,
pline from the higheft to the lowed, his cominandt
were duly obfcrved, and puniSuallv executed. When
the fervicc was hard, he tempered the feverity thereof
by frequently relieving thofe employed in die pertbrm-
ance, and haWnp all lutnds at command, he wu never
under the ncceflity of continuing the labour of any f«
of men beyond what their ftrength and their fpirit*
could bear. Another neccflary precaution was, that in
fine or fettled weather, the captain never fuflered any
of his men to be idle, but conftantly einployed the ar-
mourers, the carpenters, the profcfTed navigators, foie-
maftmen, &c. in doing fomething each in his own
way, which, though not immediately wanted, he knew
there might be a call for before the voyage was com-
pleted. Having by this means left no fpare time for
gaming, quarrellii^ or rioting, he kept them in ac-
tion, and puniflicddrunkenncfs with the utmoft feve-
rity J and thus bv pcrfcvcring in a ttady line of con-
dud, he was enabled to keep the fca till reduced to a
very fcanty portion of water 1 and when he defplircd
of finding any new land, and had fully fatisfied himfrif
of the non-cxiftence of any continent in the quarter he
had traverfed, he diredled his courfe to Cnarlotte's
Sound, the place appointed for both (hips to rcndcz-<
vous in cafe of feparation, and appeared otf the fame,
(as has been already related) on Tuefday, the 1 8th of
"'ay, 1773, and here wc difcovcred our confort the
Adventure, by the (ignals (he made to us, an event every
one in both (hips felt with inexpreflibic fatisfiidion.'
The next morning after our arrival, being Wednef-
day, the 19th, Capt. Cook went oft" in the boat, at
day-break, to gather fcurvy grafs, celery, and other
vegetables. At breakfaft time he returned w ith a boat
load, enough for the crews of both (liips ; and knou -
ing their falutary cflicacy in removing fcorbuiic com-
plaints, he ordered that they lliould be boiled with
wheal and portable broth, every morning for breaktad,
and with pcafe and broth for dinner, and thus drelTed
they arc extremely beneficial. It was now the Cap-
tain's intention to vifit Van Dicmen's land, in order to
detenninc whether it made a part of New Holland ;
but as Capt. Furncaux had cleared up this point, it waa
refulvcd to continue our refearchcs to the ca(l between
the latitudes of 41 dcg. and 46 deg. In confequencc
of this determination Capt. Cook ordered out his men
to alTift the crew of the Adventure in preparing her
for fea. He was induced more efpccialiy to this, lie-
caufe he knew rcfrelhments were to be prtKurcd at the
Society Iflcs. Ontheaoth, wc vilited the fortificati-
ons of the natives where the obfervatory was fixed. It
is only acceffiblc in one place, and there by a narrow,
difticult path, being (ituated on a (lce|) rock. The
huts oi the natives iTood promifcuoudy within an in-
clofurc of pallifadoes ; they confilU-d only of a roof,
and had no walls. I'erhaps thcfe are only occalionat
abodes, w hen the Indians find themfelvcs in any dan-
ger. Capt. Furncaux had planted before our arrival, a
great quantity of garden feeds, which grew vcrv well,
and produced plenty of fallad and European greens.
This day C^apt. C<»k lent on (horc, to the watering-
place, near the Adventure's tent, the only ewe and ram
remaining of thofc we brought (rom the Cape of (iood
Hope. On the nil wc went over to Long Ifland.
w hich conlifts of one long ridge, the top nearly level,
and the (ides (Veen. Fierc we (i^und various kindK of
(lone, and fowcd iJi(ferent kinds o( garden feeds u{X)n
fome f\ynt% which wc cleared (or that purpofe. On
Saturday, the lad, we (bund the ewe and ram dead,
whofe dea'h we fuppofcd to have been occafioned by
fome poifoiwus plants. About noon we were vilited by
two final! canoes in w hich were five men. They dined
w ith us, and it was not a little th;y devoured. In the
evcn'ng they were difmiffed with pirfcnts. ITiey re-
fembled the people of Dulky Bay. t)ut were much more
familiar, and did not appear concerned at feeing us,
which was probably owing to their having before vilited
the crew of the Advcntur j. Sonic of our crew made
uis
cook's second VOYACJK— lorimkinRDifcovcricJ in the 5«//A 5m/ & Round the A'///. 133
ufc of their canoes- to fct themfclvci athorc, on which
they complained to the Captain 1 nnd, upon their ca-
noes being reftorcd, they feemed highly delighted.
On Monday the a4th, early in the morning, Mr.
Gilbert, the maftcr, wa» dirpatched to found about the
rock we had difcovercd in the entrance of the found 1
at the fame time^Capt. Cook, accompanied by Capt.
Furncaux and Mr. Forfter, fct off in a boat to the well
bay on a (hooting party. They n>ct a large canoe,
in which were 14 or 15 people ; and the firit (juelUon
they aflced was concerning the welfare of 'iupia. Ifc-
ing told he was dead, they cxpreflcd fome concern.
The feme enquiry, as has been obfcrved, was made of
Capt. Furneaux when he firll arrived, and on our
getting aboard in the evening, we were informed, that
lome Indians in a canoe, who were ftrangers to our
iKopIc, had alfo enquired for Tupia. Mr. Cilbert
navmg founded all round the rock, which he found to
be very fmall and Hcep, returned Lite in the evening.
This day the Kcfohition received another vilit from a
family who came with no other intent than partaking
of our food, and to get fome of our iron work. We
wanted w know their names, but it was a long time
before we could make them underftand us. At laft we
found that the oldeft was called Towahanga, and the
others Kotugha-a, Koghoaa, Khoaa, Kollakh, and Tau-
pua|)enia. The laft was a boy about twelve years of
aj;e, very lively and intelligent. He dined with iiii, cat
voracioully, and was very fond of the crull of a pie
made of wild fowl. He did not much relilh Madeira
w ine which the captain gave him, but was very fond of
fome fweet Cape wine, which elevated his fpirits and
his tonp^ie was perpetually going. lie very much
wanted the captain's boat cloak, and feemed much
hurt at a refufal. An empty bottle and a tuble-clorh
being alfo denied him, he grewexceedirg angry, and
at length was fo fullen, that ne would not fpeak a word.
On Saturday the 29th inllant, a great number of natives
furrounded us w ith canoes, who brought goods to ex-
change, for which they got good returns, owing to the
cagernefs w ith which our failor^i outbid each other, all
of them being delirous of having Ibmc of the produc-
tions of this country. Among thefe Indians we faw
many women whole lips were of a blackilh hue, and
their checks were painted with a lively red. They had
large knees, and (lender bandy legs, owing to want of
cxcrcife, and lilting in their canoes crofs legged.
Thefe ladies were very .igrccable to our crews, who had
no opportunity of indulging an intercourfc with other
Koincn liiue our departure from linglami; and they
foon found out, that chartity was n t a dilUnguifliing
pan of their charader. Their confent was ealily pur-
tliafcd: a fpike nail, or an old lliiit, was a fuHicient
bribe: the lady was then left to make her man happy,
and to exact from him another prefent for herfelf. We
muft obfirvc to the credit of fome of ihcfe women, and
to the difrrcdit of their men, that fevcral of the former
i'.ibinitted to this proftitution with much fccniing re-
luchuKc ; and they wcrefometimes terrified into a com-
pliance iiy th authority and even menices of the
men. The New Zealanders encoutuf;ed by the gain of
this ilifgraceful commerce, went thr()Uj,'h both the (hips,
olTeriiigiheir daughters and fillers to the proniifcuous
embraces of every one for iron, tools, A:c. but the mar-
fieil women were not obliged to carry on this infamous
kind of irathr. Indeed it feems to be an edabiiihed
curtnm in New /'ealand for a girl to bellow her iiivour
on a number of men, without the lead infringement on
her character J but after m, riage, the ftrictclT conjugal
fidelity i- expected frciu her. Sketches of the moll
eharaClerirtic of their ti>ce» were taken by our draughtf-
mcn. Several of the old men in particular, had very
exprelli\e cimntenanccs; and fome of thevoung one's
looked very lavage, owing to rhcir biilliy hair hanging
over their faces. Their drof. is like what is exactly
defcribed in our copjw-f hrn for this work. In the
evening they all went on luoir, imd --eelrd temporary
huts oppolite to the (hipsi. H:,i d.. , made fires, and
prepared their fuppcrs, which eonlilKd of frelli filh,
w huh they caught with great dexterity. One of thefe
,No. 15.
Indians Capt. Cooit took over to Mortuara, and flicwed
him fome {wtatocs, in a thriving condition, which
were planted by Mr. Fannen, maftcr of the Adventure.
The man was fo well pleafcd with tliem, that of hi'*
own accord, he began to hoc up the earth round the
plants. He was tncn conduced to other plantations
of turnips, carrots, and parfnips, of which it was eafy
to give them an idea, by comparing them with fuch
roots as they were well acuuainted with. We mull
further remark of thefe people, that not any of our me-
thods of fifliing arc equal to theirs.
On the 30th inflant, we went over to lx)ng Ifland,
to colleift fome hay which the crews had made, and to
bring fome vegetables on board. In this trip we found
feveral new plants, and Ihot fome fmall birds, which
we had not feen before. In the afternoon, leave was
given to fome of our failors to go on fliore, where
they again piirchafed the embraces of the women.
Thefe fellows muft have lieen very keen indeed, or ,
they would have been difgulled with the imcleanlinefs
of their doxies, all of whom had a difagieeable fmell,
which might be fcenteil at a confiderable diftancei
and their clothes as well as hair fwarined with vermin
to a very gre.it degree ; which they occalionally cracked
Ix-twecn their teeth. It is furprizing how men, who
had received a civilized education, could gr.itily the
animal appetite with fuch loathfome creatures. VVhile
this party were on ftiore, a young woman on board ftolc
one of our feamcn's jackets, and gave it a young man
of her own tribe; upon the failor's taking it from the
Indian, he received feveral blows on the fai.e by the
young fellow's lift. At lirft the failor took this as in
joke, but upon perceiving thcafliiiLmt to be m earneft.
It. gavf iiim a hearty Englifti drubbing, and maile him
cry out t(>r quarters. At this time Capt. Cook con-
tinued his employment of lowing, in diircreiu fpots
cleared for th- purpofe, all forts of vcgetaSlcs that he
thought wouK' grow in this country, lucii as potatoes,
beans, peas, t jrn, &c.
OnTuefday the ill of June, we were vilitid by fe-
veral natives whom we had not feen before, and who
brought with them fundry new articles of commerce j
among thefe were dogs, fome of which we puich.ifcd.
Of thefe people we law a few oddly marked in their
faces, by ipiral lines deeply cut in them. Such kind
of marks were very regular in the face of a middle-aged
man, named Tringho Waya, who appeared to be a
perlbn of note, and to have autluirity over his brethren.
This company feemed to underftand [)erfeclly well how
to trallic, and did not like we fliouUl make hard bar-
gains. Some of them entertained us with a dance on
the quarter deck, previous to w hich they parted w ith
their upper garments, and ftood in a row. Thev fung
along, and its chorus all loj^'thcr, making during the
performance many frantii. gcllurLj. Mufic accom-
panied this fong and dince, but is w.is not >cry
narmonious.
On Wednefday the 2d, we fet afticre on the caft-fidc
of the found a male and a female goat. The Litter,
which was nuire than a year old, had two line kids,
that were killed by the cold fome time btforc wcLiriivud
in Dulky Bay. Cipt. Furneaux likewile put on llicre,
in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding lows, wliicli
were left to range in the woods at pleafure. Should
they remain unmolefted by the natives till they become
wild, they will then be in nodanf,er. and in time this
country may be flocked with thefe ul'eful aniviv.ils. In
an excurlion made this day by fome of j)iir people to
the call, they met with the iargeft leal they had ever
feen. They difcovered it fwimming on the furlacc of
the water, and got near enough to fiie nt it, bur without
elfed i ami after purfuing it near an hour, tliey were
obliged to give over the chafe. By the lize of thi»
animal, it probably was a fca-lioneli> ; Capt. Cook was
of this opinion from having feen a fca-lioti when he
entered this found, in his lormer voyage ; and he
thought thefe creatures had their abode in liiiiie of the
rwks. that lie off Aeimiralty Bay, and in the ftrait.
On the -^d, fome boats were lent to I.ong liland, to
bring away the retiuinder of the hay, and ;>ur carpenter
3 L went
1^
«J*
Ctpt. COOK'S VOYAGES COMPLETE.
! i-
m
^ U
went ever to the eaft-fide of the found, to cut down
fimie fpn. which were much wanted. On their re-
turn, one of the boatt wu chafed by a targe double
canoe, containing above Rhy men. Prudence diifhtcd
to efftdl an efcape by faihng, for thou|(h the Indians
might have no hodile intentions, yet this wu a neccf-
farv caution.
Friday the |th of June, being hit Majefty's birth<
day, we hoifted our colours, and prepared to celebrate
the day with the ufual fcftivittcs. Early in the morn-
inp our friends brought us a large fupply of filh. One
of them promifed to accompany us in our voyage, but
afterwards altered his mind, u did alfo fome others
who had made a like promife to the people of the Ad-
venture. It was very common for thefe people to
bring their children with them, not with the unnatural
intention of felling them, M was reported, but in ex-
peifUtion that we would make them prefcnts. A man
Drought his fon, a boy about ten years of age, and pre-
fentcd him toCapt. Cook, who thought .it firft he
wnnicd to fell him : but we foon found tne deflre of the
tsithcr was inclined only towards a white (hirt, which
was given to his Ion. The boy was fo highly dclighteil
with nis new garment, that he went all over the Ihip,
prcfenting himfelf before every one who came in his
way. This freedom, or perhaps the colour of his drefs,
or the boy's an . gedures, offer Jr \ old Will, the ram
goat, \vho by a fudckn butt knocked him backwards
on the deck. The Ihirt was dirtied ; the misfortune
fcei^ed irrepar'blc to the boy, who feared to appear
be', re li.^ fnth.' in the cabbin. until brought in by Mr.
Forfter i vhcjihrtrld .i very lamentable ftory againlt
Crourf y, . he JL^rcai I'log (for fo they called all the quad-
ri'^jeds wt ha«i a'ocjrd) nor would he be reconciletl till
Ihs ibirt 'Hi walhed and dried. From this trifiint'
Jlorv ii'iy lie I'etn ho> liable we are to miflake theft
nccpU .1 ii,-aning ,i.iid to afcribe to them cuftoins they
■>r(. ut'rr '- ftood af the head of the canoe,
and another at . .)c ftern, while the roll kept their feats
One of them held a green bough, the New Zealani'
flag in his hand, and fpoke a few words. The othei
made a locq ha.Tingue, in folcmn and well articulated
founds. Biitiig invited aboard, he at lall ventured,
and was followed foon by the reft, who eagerly traded
with us. They direvflly faluccd the natives on board, by
an application of their nofes, and paid the fame compli-
fticnt to the gentlemen on thequarter-deck. The chiefs
name was I'eiratu. They all enqtyred for Tupia, and
were much concerned at hearing of his death. Thefe
ncoplc were taller than any we had hitherto feen in
New Zealand, and their drefs and ornaments bef|X)ke
them fupcrior to the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's
Sound. I'heir tools were made with great attention,
and were elegantly carved : we obtained a few of thefe,
and alfo fome mufical indruments from them. They
made but .-v fliort ftay, and, embarking, they a'! v ent
o\er to Mortuara, where, by t'.ie help of our g'\[le\ we
difcovcred four or five canoes, and feveral people on the
fhorc. About noon Ca[.t. Cook, accompanied o levera!
other gentlemen followed them, and were rec( \\ ^ wit'n
t\cry iTiaik of friendihip. "The capuin d f ributcd
feveral pnlcnts, among which were a great ni i -"ber ot
brafs nicii.ils inHribcd with the king's title or or • f?de,
ami the llilp « hich undertook this voyage an the other.
i'eiratu appeared to be the chief among thefe people,
by the great degree of rcfpcdl i ..d him. Capi C> ok
condii(fled Teiratu to the garden he had planted, at.'d
obtained a promilc from him that he would not fuifer
it to be derfroyed.
Karly in the morning of the 7th of June, we failed
from thi? place in company with the Adventure, but
had frequent hindrances from contrary winds. On the
twenty-fccond of July we were in lat. 32 deg. 30 min.
long. 1.}-} deg. 40 min. W. And now the weather was
(0 v.arm, that we ucic obliged to put on lighter cloaths.
We did not fee a finglc bird this day, which was
.1
rather remarkable, as not one da^ had hitherto palTcd
fince we left the land without feeing feveral. Capt.
Cook having heard that the crew of the Adventure
were fickly, went on board the 39th of July, when he
found the cook dead, and 20 men ill with the fcurvy
and flux. Only three men were on the (ick lift on
board the Refolution, which was certainly owing to the
captain's abfolutelv enforcing the eatiiig celery and
fcurvy-grafs with the food, though at firft the crew did
not like it.
All hopes of difcoverins « continent now vanifhed,
as we had got to the nortnward of Caut. Carteret's
tradls, and we only expeded to fee iflands till our
return to the S. Every circumftance confidercd, we
were induced to believe that there is no Southern Con.,
tinent between New Zealand and America ; it is very
certain that this palToge did not produce any fure ligns
of one.
On the 6th of Auguft, Capt. Fumeaux came on
board the Refolution to dinner, and rcponed, that his
people were n\uch better, that the flux had ouite left
them, and that the fcurvy was at a ftaml. The
fcorbutic people had been well fupplieJ with cyder,
which in a great meafure contribute' to this happy
change. I^ind appeared to the fou^n on the eleventh
inOant at day break, which we jirdged to be one of
thofc iflands difcovered by Monf. Bougainville. Wc
called it Refolution Ifland, it lies in the latitude of 17
deg. 24 min. longitude 141 deg. 39 min. W. Wc
did not flay to examine ir, as it did not appear large
enough to fupply our wants j we therefore determined
to make the belt of our way to Otaheite, where wc
were fure of a plentiful fupply cf refreflimenrj. In
the evening wc faw land again, which in all probability
was anothcrof Monf. Bougainville's difcoverics. This
wc called Doubtful Ifland. On the morning of the
1 2th inllant at day-break, we difcovered land at abouc
two miles ahead of us, fo that we were advifed of our'
danger but juft in time. This was another fniall half
dro« ned ifland. The fea broke againft it in a dread-
ful furf. This ifland is in latituTc 17 deg. j min.
longitude 143 deg. 16 min. W. We called it Fur-
ncaux Ifland. On the 17th, wc faw another of thefe
iflands in latitude 17 deg. 4 min. longitude 144 dtg.
30 min. W. It is with very great propriety that
Monf. Bougainville calls thefe low overflowed iflands
the Dangerous Archipelago. Wc were under the ncccf-
fity of proceeding with the utmolt caution, efpecially
in the night, as we were furroundcd by them, which
the fmoothncfs of the fea fuflieicntly indicated. On
the 14th, wc found ourfelves clear of^th.fe iflands, and
ftcered our courfe for ()LD'icite. Wc faw Ofnaburg
Ifland (which was difco'\ii,ii by Capt. Wallis) ontho
t5th, at five in the monang, and acqur'iit d Capt.
Fumeaux that it was our intention tc | Jt ini^ Oati-
piha Bay, near the fouth end of Otaheite, and get what
refreflimcntc we c.^u.d in that paitof the illand, before
'*e went to Matp.vii.
On the «'!». wc were within a Itugue of the reef.
On accr unt of the breeze failing us, we hoifted out
our boats to tow the fliips ofl", but the <■ nld not keep
us "rom being carried toft near thv, i.;' Many in-
habitants came on board from diflercnt parts, who
brought fr-its, &c. to exchange; ri xy molt of them
knew ( ■ pt Cook again, and enqu- < 1 .ur Mr. Banks
and otic rs, hut none of them aik^d tor Tupia. Our
fuuation became ftill more dangerous as the calm con-
tinued. On fendii^ to examine the weftem point of
the reef, in order to get round that way into the bay,
we found that the/e was not fuflicicnt depth of water.
Both fliips were carried with great iinpetuofity towards
the reef, and all the horrors ot fliipwreck now flared us
in the face. The breakers were not two cables IciyH
from us, and wc could find no bottom to anchor. 1 k
Refolution came at three fathoms water, and ftruck at
every fall of the fea, but the Adventure brouf h* up
under our bow without ftriking. The dreadK ' urf
which broke under our fiern threatened our fhipw c.A
every moment. At length we found ground a little
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COOK.*! SECOND VOYAGE— for making Difcoveriis in the Snuth Seas & Round the World. 1 35
vmif the bower anchor, and the ride ccafed to adirtthe
Sum ditefiion. We happily towed offthc Refolution,
and all the boati were ordered to aflift the Adventure.
Wc happily got once nwre fafe at fea, after narrowly
taping ftiipwreck. A number of the natives were on
board Se fliipi while we were In thii perilous fltuation,
but were totaHy infenfible of any uanger, even while
we were ftriking, and when ihr / parted with us they
feemed quite unconcerned. Wc anchored in Oati-piha
Bay, veiy near the ihore, and were viiitcd by a great
number of the natives, who brought roots, fruit, &c.
' Prefents were made to their chiefs of (hirts. axes, and
other articles, in return for which they promifed hogs,
fowls, &c. but we believe they never mtendcd to keep
their promifc. In the afternoon. Captains Cook and
Fumeaux landed to found the difpofuion of the natives,
and to view the watering-place. The natives behaved
with great civility, and we had a very convenient
fupply of water.
Wc recovered the Refolution's bdwer Anchor, which
we were obliged to leave ; but the Adventure loft three
in the time of our extremity, which were never recover-
ed. We were ftill dipplied with fruit and roots, but
not in large quantities. A party of men were trading
on Ihore, under the protecflion of a guard. We could
not get any hogs from the natives, though plenty were
(aid to be feen about their habitations, they all faid they
bclonged-to Wahcatow, their chief, whom we had not
fe?n. A man who pretended to be a chief came on
board with feveral of his friends, to whom prefents
were made, but he was detc&ed in handing feveral
things over the quarter gallery ; and as complaints of
the fame nature were alledged againft thole on the
deck, the capuin took the liberty to turn them all
out of the fhip. The captain was fo cxafperated at
the condud of the pretended chief, that he fired two
mufquets over his head, which terrified him fo much,
that he quitted his canoe and took to the water. On
fending a boat to take up the canoe, the people from
the ihore pelted the boat with Hones. The captain
went himlelf in another boat to proted her, he likewife
ordered a cannon loaded with ball to be Hred along
the coaft, which-tcrrificd them fufliciendy, arid he
brought away the canoes without any oppoiition.
They foon became friends again, and the canoes were
returned. Two or three people began to enquire after
Tupia, but ; hey were foon fatisfied when they heard the
caufe of his death. Several people afkra for Mr.
Banks, and other people who were at Otaheite with
Capt. Cook before. We were informed by thefe pco-
ple^ that there had been a battle fought between the
two kingdoms, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater
fcninfula, was (lain, and that Otoo reigned in his (lead,
n this battle Tubourai, Tannaide, and feveral of our
old friends fell. A peace was now fully eftabliihed.
On the 19th, the two commanders made an excur-
iion along the coaft, and were entertained by a chief
(whom mey met) with fome excellent fifh, &c. to
whom in return they made feveral prefents. On the
20th, one of the natives fliblr a gun from the people on
ihore. ' Some of the natives purfucd him of their own
accord, who knocked him down and twought back the
mufquct. Wc imi^ine that fear operated more with
them in this bufinos than any other motive. On the
3ift, a chief came to viiit us, who brought in a pre-
fent of fruit, which proved to be fome cocoa-nuta that
we had drawn the water from and thrown overboard.
He had io artfully tied them up, that we did net foon
difcovcr the deceit. He did not betray the leaft
cknotion when we told him of it, and opened two «r
three of them himfelf, as if he knew nothing of the
matter; he then pretended to be fatisfied that it was
really fo, and went on (horc, from whence he fe*tt fome
bananoeg and plantains. Wc were informed that
Waheatow was come into the neighbourhood, and
wilhed to fee Capt. Cook, who accordingly went in
company with Capt. Fumeaux and fome gentlemen:
they Were likewifealiended by fome natives. About a
mile fixxn the laitdif^ place th-y met the chief, ad-
• vincing to meet them with a numerous tnin. When
the prince perceived the company, he halted. He
knew Capt. Cook vety well, as they had feen each othe^
feveral times in 1769. He went at that time by the
name of Tcrace,andtook his father's name at his death.
We fbund him fitting on a ftoOl ; and as foon as the
ufual faluution was over, he feated Capt. Cook on
the fame (hx>l with himfelf s the reft fat on the ground.
He enquired after feveral who had been on the former
voyage, and feemed forty when we told him we muft
fail me next day, offering the captain that if he would
ftay he (hould have hogs m plenty. Capt. Cook made
him many prefents, and ftaid with him the whole
morning. This party returned onr board of fhip to
dinner, and made this chief ^inothei* Vifit in the after-
noon, made him more prefents, and he mve us two
hogs. At the different trading places Tome ethers
were gOt, fo that a meal's frefh pork ferved for the crews
of both ihips.
Early in the morning of the 34th, we put to fea, and
were accompanied by feveral canoes, who brought
cargoes of fruit for falc ; neither did they return till
they had difpofcd of them. The fick people on board
the Adventure got much relief from thefe fruits. We
left a lieutenant on (hore, in order to bring fome hogs,
which they promifed to fend by him. He returned
on the 35th, and brought eight pigs with him. Wd
arrived at Matavai Bay in the evening of the 25 th, and
our decks were crowded with natives before we could
get to anchor, almoft all of them were acquainted with
Capt. Cook. Otoo their king and a great crowd were
got together on the fhorc. Capt. Cook was going on
fhore to pay him a vifit, but was told that he was gone
to Oparce in a fright) which feemed very cxtraordinaty
to the captain, as all others were much plcafed to fee
him. Maritata, a chief, was on board, and advifed the
captain to defer his vifit till next morning. The cap^
tain fct out on the 26th for Oparce, after having givea
diredions to fetch tents for the reception of the fick,
&c. Capt. Furneaux, Maritata and his wife, and fome
others, went with the captain. They were condudled
to Otoo as fb. .1 as they were landed, who fat on the
ground under a ihady tree, with a great number of
people around him. Capt. Cook made him feveral
prefents, after the ufual compliments had paffed, being
vety well perfuaded that it was much to his intercft to
eftablilh a friendfhip with this man. His attendants
alfo had prefents made to them, they offered cloth in
return, wnich was refufed, being told that what was
given was merely out of friendfhip. Otoo enquired for
all the gentlemen who had been there before, as well as
for Tupia, and promifed to fend fome hogs on board,
but was vety backward in faying he would come on
board himfelf, being, as he laid, much afraid of the
great guns., He was certainly the moft timid prince,
as all his a&ions dcmonftrated. He was a pcrfonable
well made man, fix. feet high, and about thirty years
of age. His ftther and all his ful^eds were uncovered
before him, that is, their heads and ihouldcrs were
made bare.
On the 37th, the king Otoo came to pay us a vifit,
attended by a numerous train ; he fent before him two
large fifh, a hog, fome finiits, and a large quantity of
cloth. After much perfuafion he came on board him-
felf, accompanied by his fifters, a younger brother, &c.
with many attendants, who all received prefents ; and
when they had breakfafted, carried them home to
(^aree. Upon landing, an old lady, the mother of
Toutaha, met Capt. Cook, feized him by both hands,
and, weeping bitterly, told him that her fon and his
friend Toutaha were dead. Had not the king taken
her from Qq>t. Cook, he muft have joined her lamenta-
tions. It was with a good deal of difficulty that the
captain prevailed on the king to let htm fee her again,
when he made her fome prefents. Capt. Fumeaux
gave the king a male and female goat, which we hope
will multiply. A lieutenant was fent to Attahourou on
the 28th, to purchafe lu^. The king, with his fifter
and fome attendants, paid us another vifit foon after
fun-rife, and brought with them a hog, fome fruit, and
fome more cloth. They likewife went on board the
Adventure,
136
Capt. CO OK "8 VOYAGES COMPLETE.
<:/.)
I
'I
le'
Adventure, and made Capt. Furneaux the fame pre-
fcnts. Soon after they returned, and brought Capt.
Furneaux with them. Capt. Cook made them
a good return for the preicnts they brought, and
drelFed out the king's filter to the greated advantagCi
The king was carried again to Oparcc, when his Ota-
hcitan majclly thought proper to depart, and was en-
tertained as he went with bagpipes and the feamen
dancing. Some of hit people danced alfo in imita-
tion of the feamen, and performed their parts tole-
rably well. Toutaha's mother again prcfented herfcif
to Capt. Cook; but could not look upon him without
llicddmg many tears. The next day the king promifcd
to vilit us agam, but faid we mud firfl wait upon him.
The lieutenant whom we fent for hogs returned only
with a promife of having fomc, if he would go back in
a few days.
On the tM"cnty-niuth the commanders took a trip to
Oparec, early in the morning, attended by fome of-
ficers and gentlemen, .and made the king fuch prcfents
as he had not before fcen. One of them was a broad
fword ; at the fight of which he was very much inti-
midated, and defired it might be taken out of his fight.
With a vafi deal of argument he was prevailed upon to
fuffer it to be put on his fide, where it remained a very
fliort time. We received an invitation to the theatre,
where we were entertained w ith a dramatic piece, con-
fiding of comedy and dance. The fubjedl we could
not well find out; though we heard frequent mention
of Capt. Cook's name during the performance. The
performers were one woman, which was no lefs a pcr-
fonage than the king's fifier, and five men, and tneir
mafic confifted of only three drums. The whole en-*
tertainmcnt was well conduced, and lafted about two
hours. When this divcrfion was over, the king de-
fired us to depart, and loaded us with fruit ancTfifii.
The king fent more fruit and filh the next morning.
In the evening of the thirtieth we were alarmed
with the cry of murder from the fliorc. A boat was
immediately armed, and fent on fiiorc, to bring off
any of our people who might be found there witnout
orders, and to difcovcr the occafionof thcdifiurbancc.
The boat foon returned, with a feaman and three ma-
rines ; others were taken, who belonged to the Adven-
ture, and even put under clofe confinement till the
morning, when they were fcverely puniflied accord-
to their demerits. "The people would not confefs any
thing, and it did not appear that any material injury
hai' been done. The difiurbancc might beoccafioned
by the fellows making too free with the women : not-
w ithlVanding this, the alarm was fo great, that the na-
tives fled from their habitations in the night ; and the
inhabitants of the whole coaft: were terrified. The
king hinifelf had tied a great way from the place of his
abode ; and w hen Capt. Cook faw him, he complaihcd
tovhim of the difiurbance. Capt. Cook prefented the
king with three Cape fliecp, as it was his laft vifit.
With this prefent he was very well pleafed, though he
had not much reafon to be fo, as they were allwea-
thcrs ; this he was made acquainted with. The king's
fears were now difiipated, and he prefented us with
three hogs, one of which was very fmall, which we
took notice of. Soon after a pcrfon came to the king,
and feemcd to fpcak very peremptorily about the hogs,
and we thought he was angry with him for giving us
fo many, and more fo when he took the little pig away
with him ; but wc were much mifiaken, for foon after
we were gone, another hog was brought to us, larger
than the other two. The king feemed much aflrdted
when Capt. Cook told him he fhould leave the ifland
the -next day. They embraced each other feveral times,
and departed. ,
On the fird of September we determined to depart,
as the fick were nearly recovered, the neceflary repairs
of the fliip were completed, and plenty of water pro-
vided. Moft of the day was employed in unmooring
the (hips ; and in the afternoon the lieutenant returned,
who had been fent for the hogs promifed. With him
came Pottatou (the chief of the diftrid of Attahou-
nou), with his wife, to pay Capt. Cook a vifit^ and
4
made him a prefent of two hogs and fomc fiih. The
lieutenant got likcwifc two more hc^s. As the wind
was wefterfy, wc were obliged to difmifs our frienda
fooner than they withcd j but they were very weli fatis-
fied with the reception they met with. A young man;
named Porco, came on board fome hours before we got
under fail, and defired to go with us, to which wc
confcnted ; and at the fame time he alked for an axe and
a fpikc nail for his father, who camewith him on board.
They were accordingly given him, and they parted
with great indiftercnce, which feemcd to indicate that
they had deceived us, and no fuch confaii^inity fub-
fifted. Prefently a canoe, conduced by two men,
came along-fide, and demanded Porco in the name of
Otoo. Wc informed them that wc would part with him
if they would return the hatchet and fpikc nail, but they
faid they were aihore ; fo the young gentleman failed
along with us, though he wept when he faw the land at
our ftern. On the fccond we (leered our courfc for
the ifiand of Huahcinc, and the' Rcfolution anchored
in twenty-four fathoms water on the third in(iant, but
the Adventure got a(hore on the north fide of the chan-
nel, but (he was happily got off again without receiv-
ing any damage. The natives received us with the ut-
moft cordiality, feveral of whom came on board be-
fore our commanders went on (hore. Some prefcntit
were diftributcd amongfi them, which were gratefully
returned by a plentiful fupply of hogs, fruit, &c. Here
wc had ^ fine profped of being plentifully fupplied
with frefli pork and fowls, which was to us very plca-
fing. Two trading parties were fent aihore on the
fourth inftant, which were very well condudled. Capr.
Cook was informed that Orec was ftill aliye, and waited
to fee him. The commanders, with Mr. Forfter, went
to the place appointed for the interview, accompanied
by one of the natives. 1 he boat was landed before the
chiefs houfe, and we were defired to remain in it till
the necelTary ceremony was gone through. There flood
clofe to the (hore five young plantain trees, which are
their emblems of peace : tnefc were, with fome cere-
mony, brought on board feparately. The firfl three
were each accompanied by a young pig, whofc ears
were ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres; the fourth
plantain tree was accompanied by a dog. All thefe
had particular names and meanings, which we could
not underfland. The chief had carefully prefcrved a
piece of pewter, with an infcription on it, which Capr.
Cook haa prefented him with m 1 769, together with a
piece of counterfeit Englilh coin, which, with a few
beads, were all in the fame bag the captain made for
them ; thefe the chief fent on board. This part of the
ceremony being over, we were defired by our guide to
decorate three young plantain trees with nails, looking-
glalTes, beads, medals, &c. With thefe in our hands
we landed, and were conduced through the multitude.
We were direk, fell on his neck, and
kifTed him. A great cfiufion of tcan fell down the ve>-
nerable cheeks of this old man ; and if ever tears fpoke
the language of the heart, furcly thefe did. Prefents
were made to all his attendants and friends. Capt.
Cook regarded him as a father, and therefore prefented
him with the mod valuable articles he had. He gave
the capuin a hog, and a good deal of cloth, with the
promife that all his wants fhould be fupplied. Soon
after we returned on board, fourteen hogs were fent us,
with fowls and fruit in abundance. In the morning of
the fifth inflant we were vifitcd by this good old man,
who brought a hog and fome fruit ; indeed he fent the
captain every day ready drelTed fruit and roots in great
plenty. This morning the lieutenant went on ftiore in
fcarch of more hogs, and returned in the evening with
twenty-eight, and about feventy more were put-chafed
on (hdrc.
On Monday the fixth of September the tradii^
party went on fiiore as ufual ; it only confiHed of three
people. Ci^t. Cook went on (hore after brcakfiill, aitd
learat
COOK'a SECOND VOYAGE— for making Difcoveries in the South Seat Ac Round the fVorlJ. 1 37
learnt that one of the inhabiuntt had been very infolcnt
and troublcfomc. This man wai flicwn to the captsKn,
equipped in hii war habit, and he had a club in each
hand. The captain took thcfe from him, as he per-
ceived him bent on mifchicf, broke them before his
face, and obliged him to retire. The captain being
informed that this man was a chief, became a little
fufpicioui of him, and fcnt for a guard. About ihis
time a gentleman had gone out botanizing alone ; two
menaflault^ him, and (tripped him of every thing but
his trowfera; luckily they did him no harm, though they
llruck him fcveral times with hi« own hanger. ~hcy
made off when they had done this, and another of the
natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him. This
gentleman prefentW appeared at the trading place,
where a nuinbcr of the natives were aflcmblcd, who all
fled at feeing him. Capt. Cook perfuaded (t>me of
them to return, aflurinc them that none fliould futTi r
who were innocent. When the king heard this coni-
}>laint, he and his companions wept bitterly ; and as
bon as his grief was alfwaged, he made a long harangue
to the people, telling them the bafenefs of fuch adior.s,
when the captain and his crew had always behaved lb
well to them. He then took a particular account of
the things the gendcman had loft, and promifed they
fhould be returned, if it was in his power to find them.
After this he dcfired Capt. Cook to follow him to the
boat, but the people bcmg apprehenfive of his fafct^,
ufed every argument to dilTuade him from it. It is
impoflibic to defcrilx: the grief they exprefied in the
• intrcaties they ufed j every face was bedewed with
tears, and every mouth was filled with the nioft dif-
fuafive arguments. Oree was deaf to them all, and
infilled on going with the captain ; when they both
were in the boat, he dcfired it might be put olF. The
only perfon who did not oppofe his going, was his
lifier, and fiie lhe\(cd a magnanimity of Ipirit equal
to her brother. We proceeded in fearch of the rob-
bers, as far as it was convenient by water, arid then
hnded. The chief led the way, travelled feveral miles,
and enquired after them of all he faw. We then
went into a cottage, and had fome refrefiiment. The
kiiu; wanted to proceed farther, and was with great
diflteulty difluaded from it by Capt. Cook. When we
retunied to the boat, we were met by the king's filler,
Vho had travelled over land to that place, accom-
panied by feveral other pcrfons. The king infilled
on going into the boat with us, as well as nis fiAer.
Wc returned to the (hip, and the king nude Ji very
hearty dinner j though his filler, according to cuftom,
* ate nothing. We made them fuiuble preients for the
confidence they had placed in us, and fet them alhore
amidd the acclamations of multitudes. Peace was
now perfei£Uy re-eftablilhed, provifions poured in from
all quarters, the gentleman's hanger and coat were
returned, and thus ended thefe troublefomc tranfac-
tions.
We went to take our leave of Oree while the (hips
were unmooring, and prefented him with things both
valuable and ufeful. We left him a copper-plate,
with this infcription. •• Anchored here, his^riunnic
Majefiy's (hips Kcfolution and Adventure, September
I773-" After we had traded for fuch things as we
wanted, we took our leave, which was a very affec-
tionate one. On returning to the (hips, they were
Xiouded, as on our arrival, with canoes fified with hogs,
fowls, &c. Soon after we were on board, the king
came, and informed us that th^ robbcn w(re taken,
and defired us to go on fliorc, that wc might behold
their exemplary punifiiment. This we (hould have
been glad to have done, as fo much pains had been
^keh to difcover them f but it was out of our power,
m the Adventure was out of harbour, and we were
under (ail. The good old king flaid with us till we
^ere near two miles out at (i;a, and then, after taking
another afledionate leave, parted. Dwring our (lay
here, we procMred.upwards of three hundred hogs, be-
sides fowls and fruit in great abundance. While at
this m*nd, Capt. Furneaux engaged a yojing man,
named Omai, a native of VUtca. who had been dif-
' ^- 16.
poficlfcd of his property by the people of Bolabola, to
accompany him on his voyage. This young man ha»
a good underdanding, honed principles, and a natural
S'ood behaviour. But his hiltory is fo well known in
England, that we will not enlarge upon it.
On Wednefday the 8th, we entered the harboitr of
Ohamahcno 1 the natives croudcd about us with hogs
and fruit as foon as wc were anchored. We refuted
the hogs, as we had already more than wc could
manage t but feveral of the principal people obliged us
to take them whether we would or no. Wc made a
vifit on the oth to Oreo, who is the chief of this part
of the ifland of Ulitea. He expreifed great fatisfadion
on feeing Capt. Cook again, and defircd him to ex-
change names with him, which the latter agreed, tot
this is a didinguilhing mark of fricnd(hip. Here wc
traded as ufual, but the balance of trade was much in
our favour. On the loth, the chief entertained us
with 8. comedy; a very entertaining part of which was
a theft, committed, with amaziiigdexterity, by a man and
his accomplice. Bclbre the thief has time to carry off
the prize, he is difcovcrcd, and a fcuflic enfues ; the dif-
covcrcrs are vanquilhcd, and the thieves go off in
triumph. We returned to dinner after the play was
over, and as we were walking on fiiore in the evening,
one of the natives informed us that there were nine un-
inhabited iflands to the wedward.
Oreo and his fon paid us a vifit early in the morn-
ing of the 1 1 th of September, and brought, as ufual,
hogs and fruit with them. We dreflcd the youth in
a inirt, and fome other articles, of which he was not a
little proud . After day ing Ibme hours, they went alhorc,
and io did Capt. Cook foon after, but to another part
of the fiiore. When the chief heard he was landed,
he went of his own accord and put a hog and fome
fruit in the boat, ahd returned without faying any
thing of it to any other perfon. He afterwards came
with fome friends to dinner. After dinner, Po-oorau,
who is the mod eminent chief of the iflanJ, made us a
vifit. He was introduced by OrcO, and brought a pre-
fent with him; for which he received a handfome re-
turn. Wc promifed to vifit both the chiefs the next
morning: which we accordingly did, in company with
leveral gentlemen. Another play was sded, and two
very pretty young women pcrformea, othcrwife this
piece was not fo enteruining as the one wc faw be-
fore.
On the 14th, wc fent on (hore for a fupply of bananocs
and plantains, for fca fiore. Oreo ana fome friends
paid us a pretty early vifit, when we informed him,
that we would dine with him on fiiore, and defired he
would let us have two pigs for dinner, drefied in their
fafiiion. We found the floor of the chief's houfc
(Irewed thick with leaves, and we were (bon ieated
round them. Soon after the pigs came tumbling over
our heads upon the leaves ; and they were both fa
hot as fcarcclyto be touched. The table was orna-
mented with hot bread-fruit and plantains : we had
likewife a quantity of cocoa-nuts to drink. We never
faw yidluals drelTed cleaner nor better in our lives, and
it had a mod exquifite flavour, much fuperior to
vtdhials drelTed inour mode; how they contrived it we
cannot tell, but though one of thefe hogs weighed fifiy
poimds at lead, it was well done in every part, and not
too much done in an^. Oreo and his ion, with-fome
male friends, dined wftth us. We had a great number
of attendants and people who came to fee us thus dine
in public, to whom pieces of pork were handed. The
chief did not refufe his glafs of Madeira whenever it
came to his turn, and we never at this, or any other
time, faw him aifeded by it. The boat's crew took
the remainder when we had dined. In the afternoon
we were again entertained with a play.
Oo the 15th, we had a fuflicient proof of the timor-
ous dUpolition of thefe people. We rather wondered
that none of them came to the diips as ufual. We
were afraid that as two men of the Adventure's crew
(laid out all night contrary to orders, that the natives
had dripped them, or done them fome other injury,
and were afraid w; (}io^ld revenge their condudl. We
Il
-38
Capt. COOK 8 VOYAGES COMPLETE.
went afliore, and found the neighbourhood nearly
defcrted. Prefently the two men made their ap-
pearance, and reported that they had been very civilly
treated. We could get no account of the caufe of thci r
flight, and could only learn from a few pcrfons who
ventured near us, that fevcral were killed and wounded,
and pointed to their bodies where the balli of the guns
went in and out. Capt. Cook was very uneafy at this
relation, fearing for the fafety of the pemic gone toOtaha.
In order to get the bed information, the captain deter-
mined to so to the chief himfelf, whom, after much
fearching ror, he found fcated under the fliade of a
hoUfe, with a great many people round him. There
was a great lantentation as foon as Capt. Ctx)k ap..
proarhcd, the chief and all his company burfting into
tears. After all this piece of work, it was found that
the caufe of their alarm was on account of our bodta
being abfcnt, fuppofing that the people in them had
defertcd us, and that we fliould adopt violent metho«li
to recover them. They were fatisfied when Capt,
Cook afliired them there was no caufe for alarm,
and that the boats would certainly return. On tl.c
morning of the 16th, we paid the chief a vifit, who was
in his own houfc in perfect tramjuillity. At thi;i tiipe
Porco left us.
p-ts
6x:<^.
iM
\ii >:
CHAP. III.
A Spanijbjbit'* vijits Otabeite—Stitlf of the ijlands — Raitarkt on ibe difiui/es and rn/tms qf.th' ttativfSy—Mifahen noliant
fottcertiing Ibe womn, corrfffed—PaJfage^from Ulilfa to the Friendly Ijles—hhrvey's Jjknd difiOVcred—Luideiits at MiJ.
d!ibttrgb—the livo Jhips arrive at AmfterJam—A tlace of -worfuip dtfmM—liiddents ibal happened during their
flay at that ifland—The abwe ijlands defcribed— Their frodm—CuJlivatioii—Houfcs—CMioei — Navigation— 'Maiiu^
failures — IVcapons—Cuftmns — Government — Religion and language if the itibaiitants.
ON the 17th of September, being Friday, we de-
termined to put to fca, having a good fupply of
all kinds of refrefhments. Before wc failed, Oreo and
his fon paid us a vifit. Several canoes filled with fruit
and hogs furroundcd us : of the latter we could re-
ceive no more, our decks being fo crouded with them
that wc could fcarcely move. In both ftiips were about
three hundred and fifty. Oreo and his friends did not
leave us till we were under fail, and camefily impor-
tuned us to tell them when we fliould return. Capt.
Cook, as many young men offered to come away with
us, took one on board, about 1 8 years of age, named
Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of
the great Opoony, chief of the idand. When wc
were out of the harbour and had made fail, a canoe was
obfcrvcd following us conduced by two men ; where-
upon wc brought to, and when along-fide, they deli-
vered to Capt. Cook a prcfent of roaded fruit, and
foots, from Oreo. The captain after having made
them a proper return fet fail to the weft, with the Ad-
venture in company. We fliall here give fomc further
account of theie iflands, fome things, which are rather
interefting, having been omitted in the relation of daily
tianfadtions and incidents.
A few days after our arrival at Otaheitc wc were told;
that a (hip, about the fize of the Refolution, had vifited
Owhaiunia Harbour, at the S. E. end of the ifland; at
wliich place, after having remained three weeks, flie
departed about three months before our arrival. Fdur
of the natives went away in her, whole names were
pebedebea, Paoodou, Tanadooee, and Opahiah. We
conjcfhired flie was a French ihip, but at the Cape of
Oood Hope, we w ere informed flie was a Spaniard, fcnt
Out from America. The natives of Oiaheite com-
clained of a diforder communicated tp them by the
people in this fliip, which they defcribed as affefting
the head, throat, and ftomach, and at l«!ngth they faid
it killed them. This fliip they called Pahai-jio Pcppc
(fliip of Peppe) and the difeafe they named Apano
Pcp-pe, juft as thcjr call the venereal difeafe Apano
Prctane (Englifti difeafe) yet to a rtan, they fay this
loathfomc diftcmper was introduced amohg thtm by
M- ^e Bougainville s and they thought he came from
Preune, as well as every other Ihip that touched at the
ifland. Wc were of opinion^ that long before thefe
iflandcrs were vifited by Europeans, this, or a difeafe
near a -kin 10 it, had exifted among theiri ; for they told
yg people died of a diforder, which we imagiiitedf to be
venereal, before that period. But be this as it may,
the difeafe is far lefs common among them than it waa
in 1769, when we firft vifited thefe ifles.
Ill the years 1767 ^nd 1768, the ifland ofOuheite,
u it were, fwarmed with nogs and fowls; but at this
fijP.Q fi was fo ill fupplied with thefe «niinals» that
hardly any thing cuild tempt the owners to part with
them t' and the little ftock they had fccmcd to be at
the difpofal of their kings. When we lay at O.iiti-pilia
Bay, in the kingdom ofTlarrabou, or Iclfcr Peninfula,
wc were given to underftand, that every hog and fo\»l
belonged to Waheatoua ; and that all in the kingdom of
Opoureonu, or the greatei- Pcninfula, belonged to OtoQ.
While at this ifland we got only 24 hogs m 17 dayjj
half of which came from tHe kings thciiifcivcs, and thf
other half we were inclined to think were Ipld u> \of
their permiflion; But with rcfpcift to all the.fruitp
produced in the ifland, with tViefc we were abundantly
lupplied, except bread-fruity which- was qot in l«afoi|.
Cocoa-nuts and plantains, wc got the^ mqft ofi, thp
latter, with a few yam* and ot^ler roots', fuppped the
place of bread. At Otaheitc wc procured great pleht/
of apples, and a fruit rcfem^ding s^ nciiarine, <;al|«Hy
the natives Ahpcya. Tfhis fruit was cornmon to all the
ifles. Of all the fecd^ brought by Europeans to thofe
iflands, none thrfvicd fo well as pumpkins, but thrfe
they do not like. We attributed the fc^city of hoM
to two caufcs: firft to the great number of thefe
animals which have been conuimed, and carried away
for flock, by the fliips that have touched here of lat&
years ; fecpnoUr, to the frequent wars between the two
Kingdoms. Twq wc know have commenced fince the
year 1767; but at prcfent peace reigns among thein,
though they do not leem to entertain a cordial friend-
rtiip for each. Pther. We could not learn the occaiion
of the late war, rtdor whP were vidtorious in' the con-
fli(ft i but wc learnt, that in the laft. battle which
terminated the di(j[>ute, numbers were killed on botb
fides. On the part of Oppureonu, Toutaha, our very
good friend was killca, and feveral other chiefs.
Toutaha was buried in his family Mora! at Oparrec ;
and feveral- women of his hou'fliold, with hlis mother,
are how iiilder the prPt^ion, and uken, care of by
Otdp, the reignfng prince ; one, who. did not appear
to us, at fiHl, tP much advantage. We could learn bu(
little of Waheatoua of TiwtnbbM ; but we obfcrvcd.
that this prince, not more than io years of age, a{>. .
peared ijn public* with Ml the gravity of a man of fifty :
yet his fubjeds do not uncover before him, or pay hiin
that outward obeifance as is done toOtoo; yet they '
' (hewed him equal rcitM^fl, and when abroad, or in
' council, he took upon him rather more flate. HU
' attendants were a few elderly mcn» who feemed to bp
his printipal advilers. Such was the prefent (late of
Otaheite, but the other iflands, that is Huaheine.v
Ulietea, and^Otaha, appeared in a more flourifliing
condition, than they were at the time when wc firtt
vifited them t fince which, having enjoyed the blefling^
of peace, the people poflefs not only the neccfljtri^s, but,
many of the luxu -s of life in great profufions biit
COOK"8 SECOND V^VXCj^-^fot- making J^i/lov/N'eAn'the South Stat fc Round tlic fVorlJ. i •^
ai wc have treated at farge of theft iflandi' ih our
•Journal and narrative of Capt. Cook'i firft voyage, wc
'ihall not trouble our reader* with uhncceflrary' repeti-
tion! I but only add, under this head,' new m:itter, or
clear up any mlftako, and feeming Inconfiftcnclcs.
In our firft voyage tothcfe places, we were inclined to
believe that tne nativw at tinus ottered to their fu-
prcme deity human facrificei. To clear up this mat-
ter the two captains. Cook and Furncaux, with IbiiK*
othen went to a Marai, in Matavai. In our company
wc had, as upon all other occalions, an intclligcnr, Tcn-
fible man, belonging to the Kefolution, whofpokc the
langtiage of the natives tolerably well. In this Marai,
or burying place, was a Tupapow, on which lay a dead
body, and fomc viands. Wc firft enquired, it' the
plantains, &c. before us, were fbr the Etua, and if
they offered to him hogs, dogs, and fowls ? They art-
" Iwered in the affirmative. We then, after a fe* more
introdutflory qucfttons, afkcd,' if th(^ facrificcd Oany
of the human fpecicstothe Etua? They anfwcred, yes,
Taata-eno, that is bad men, who they 'firft beat till
they were dead; but good men were not: faCriHcfcd.
We aflced him if arty karees were I Th«y t«^lli|d« that
hogs were given to Etua, and only Taata-etfo. A11 the
anlwers fcemed to tend to the fam6 point, artd meant,
that men for certain crinicl were condemned to be
facrificed, provided they had not whei'cwithal to re-
rtiftn
fathiliarities. That the proportion
of proftitutes are greater than that of other toiinrrics
iniy be true, amrnioll of them were fuch who fit-
qiicntrd our ihips and tents on (hore. IJyobferving
tnefe t<) iriix indifcriminatcly with womrn of the firft
rank, wc concluded haftily, that all females were of
the fame turn, and that the only diffcreme was in the
price 1 but the truth is, as wc have more than once be-
fore obferved, the woman who proftitutes herfelf, does
not ftcm, in the popular opinion, to have committed
a crime, which ought to exclude her from the cflcem
and fociety of the community in general. It niuft be
confeflTcd that alt the women in this part of the world arc
complete cOqucts, and that few among them fix any
bounds to their converfation; therefore it is no wonder
that they have obtained the charadler of women of
picafure ; yet we IhoOld think it very unjuft, if the la-
dies of England were to be condemned in the lump,
tVom the condudof thofe on boafd of lliips in our na-
val ports, or of thoft who infcft the purlieus of Co-
vent-garden, and Drury-Ianc.
Rclpcding the geography of thefe ifles, we think it
necenary to add to what has been faid in the narrative
of our former voyage, that we (bund the latitude of the
bay of Oaitipiha, in Otahelte, to be lydcg. 46min;
18 fee. S. and the eaft longitude from Point Venus, to
beodcg.li mill. 21; fee. and an half, or 149 deg. \-\
min. 24 fee. W. from Greenwich. It is highly pro-
bable, that the whole ifland is of greater extent than at
firft wc fupppfed it to be in 176^. by two miles, and
4 m. 3 quarters refpedtively. Whenoiiraftronomcrs
made their obfervations on Point Venirs, they found the
latitudctobe i7dcg. 29 min, 13 fee. S. whichditfcis
but two fcconds froili that determined by Mr. Green
and Capt. Cookj and its lonrritudc, namely, 149 deff.
34mJn.49fcc. and an half W. may be asaccuratcly
laid down, for any thmj^ yet known to the central y.
After out dc|>arturc iVom the Society Ides, and leav
ing tJlietea, it was our intention to get into the lati-
tudes of the iflands of Middlcburgh and Amfterdam.to
which end, oh Friday the lyih of September, we
rtecred tO the weft, inclining to the fouth, with a view
of getting clear of the tracks of former navigators,
Wc proceeded at night with great circumfpcdlon,' fre-
quently laying to, left wc ihould pafs any land unob-
lerved. On the 21ft, and theSvhole of the 22nd, wc
had rain, thunder, lightning; a large fwell from the
fouth, and the wind blew from the N. W. for feveral
; dsys 5 a fign to us, that, in that diredion, no land wa4
near us. This was difcovercd from the maft-hcad, on-
Thurfday, the 23d, fttetching from S. by W. to S. W.
by S. We hauled tip with the wind at S. E. and found
it, to confift of two or three finall iflots, united by •
ijreakers, as- are moft of the low ifles in the fea ; the
;;ioIe being ih.a triangular form, and about fix leagues
!(! circuit. Thia ifland is'in latitude 19 deg. 18 min.
. h. -and it! 158 deg. '^4 min. W. longitude. Each of
the fmall connedcd iflcs are cloathcd with wood, par-
ticularly of the cocoa-nut kind ; but we faw no traces
of inhabitants, and had reafon to believe there were
none. To thefe iflots we gave the name of Hervey's
Ifland, in honour of Capt. Hervey of the navy, one of
the lords of the Admiralty, and now earl of Briftol.
As the landing oh this iflc would have occafioned a de-
lay, wc rcfumed our courfc to the weft, in which wc
faw fome men of war, tropic birds, and flying flfli.
On Saturday, the ajth, we aga'n began to ufb our fea
bifcuit, the fruit being all confumed; but of frcfli pork
each man had every day a nccefTary allowance. On
Wcdnefday, the 29th, in latitude 21 deg. 26 min.
S. we altered our courfe at noon W. half S.
On Friday, the ift of Odober, at two o'clock P.M.
we made the ifland of Middlcburgh, and the next
morning bore up for the weft fide thereof, pa fling be-
tween the fame, and a fmnlUfland that lay off it, where
we fbunda clear channel two miles Broad. After run-
Uing about two thirds of its length, half a mile from
the (hore, we obferved it affiimed another afped, and
offered a pn>rpedt borii of anchorage and landing-.
Upon this wjlplicd in under the ifland. We were now
vifitcd by jib canoes, vyhich came boldly along-fide of
us.
140
Capi. COOK'* VOYAGES COMPLETE.
I
,:
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ut, and fcvcrol of the Indiant entered the RcfolutiM
wkhout hcHution i which mark of confidence deter-
mined ut to vifit them if poiTible. Ailcr making a few
tript,wc foundgood anchorage, and come to ina5nthonu
%yater, at three cables length from the (liore. Wc had
fcarccly anchored, when wc were furroundcd with
Indiani, fome in canoei, and fotiK fwimmins, fcvcral
came on board, and among them a chief, namcuTioonv,
to whom Capt Cook prclcntcd a hatchet, fpikc-nails,
and other articles, with which he was highly plcaf-
cd. A party of our people, in company with Tioony,
went on fhorr, who were conducted to a little creek
formed by the rocks, right abrcad of the (hips, where
landing was very eafy, and the boats fecure againft the
furf. Here wc were faluted with loud acclamations,
by an immcnfc croud of people, who Ihcwcd the mod
evident ligns of pacific intentions, not one of them
having Co much as a ftick, or any weapon in their
)unds. They thronged fo thick round the boats with
ploch, matting, &c. that it was (bme time before we
could make good our landing. Many of them, who
could not get near the boats, threw over the other*
heads whole bales of cloth, and retired immediately,
without either afking, or waiting to get any thing in
return. At length the chief caufcd them to open to
the right and Ictt, and make room for lu to land. We
were then condudlcd up to his houfe, which was fltuatcd
•bout 300 yards from tnc fea, at thenurr (Uit.
In the evening we returned on board, and on Saiui^r
the ad ofOflober, the fhip« were croudcd with pM*
the whole day. trafficking in pvfcA youd order, Qn
the .id, early in the morning, while the (hips were pre*
paring to get under fail. Captains C«uk and Furncaux.
accompanied by Mr. Forfter, went off in the boat, to
take leave of our hofpiubic chief. He met u* at the
landing-place, and had we not cxcufed ourfclvea, he
would have entertained u« at hi» houfe. We thei«-
forc fpent half an hour with him, f^ted on the grails, in
the midd of a vad crowd of the natives, who fccmed to
vie with each other in doing what they thought would
give us pleafure. Having made the chief a prr&nt,
confiding of various articles, iic was given to unocrdand
that we were going 8wa)f. at which he fecmcd not at
all affofled. He *eM with us into our 1am, with two
of his friends, intending to accompany u| aboard,
but when he faw the Relolution under fail, he and hi*
companions went into a canoe, and returned on flwre.
It is rchiarkable. that on fhorethi* friendiv Indian never
made the lead nchangCt but now. during his day in
the boat, he bartered fidi-hooks for nails, and en-
groflcd the trade in a maimer wholly to himfelf.
On Saturday, OAober the 3d, as foon as Capt. Ox>k
came on board, we departed from Middlcbui^, and
made fail down to Amfterdanv. When we were alrauc
half w«y between the two ifles, we were met by three
canoes, and the people made feveral attempts to come
OQ board, but without ef&A, ai the rope wc threw out
to them broke, and we did not (hortcn fail. They
were likewifc unfucccfsful in boarding the Adventure.
We ran along the fouth-wcd coad of Aindcrdam, at
the didance of half a mile from the (horc, whereon the
fea broke in a creat furf. By the help of glafftj, wc
faW the face ofthe whole ifVtnd, which, in every part
that came under our obfcrvation, appeared covered
with planutions. Akmg the diorc wc perceived the
natives running in great numbers, and difplaying finalL
white flags, the emDlems 0/ peace, which f^gnalt we
anfwered I>y hoidin^ a St. Geoige's Eiidgii, At thia
time three ofthe natives of Middlebutig, who had con-
tinued too k>ng on board the Adventure to return,
quitted her, andfwam to the (bore, from whence w«
concluded they had nofhrong inclination to accompany
us in our vovagc. Wc had no boner opened the weft
fide of the iflc, than feveral canoes, having four m^o
in each, cahte boldi;r aloqg-fide, and, when they had
prefcnted us with fome ava not, came on board without
the lead ceremony. Having got into Van Diemen't
Road, we anchored, in 18 mnonu water, little more
than a cable's length from the breakers; and our coafl-
ing anchor, to keep the (hip from tailing on the rock^
lay in 47 fiithomk water. By this time we were fur-
rounded with people, and our fcamen were fo eager in
purchafiis their curiofities, even at the expence of
cloaths, that Capt. Cbok found it abfolutely necefTary
to prohibit aiw fiuther commerce of this (brt. The
good ctR/& or this order, was, that on the 4th, the
natives brought us fowl^p^ tnnanoes, and cocoa-nuts
in abuhdanee, ibr which we exchanged fmall naila and
pieces of dodi, even oU rags woula purchafe pigs and
fowls. A trading party wai now fettled, and our com-
manders went on fhon^ attended by Mr. Foiiler an^
other efficert, in compnv with a chief named Attago,
who had attached himfelf to Capt, Cook, the fir(\ mo.
ment of hit coming aboard, which was before the
(hips cartie to anchor. This perfon of fonu; note pre-
fcnted the captain with feveral articles, and as a
greater tedimony of friendfhip exchanged names widi
him ; a cudom, which, as we have obferved, is prac,-
tifed at Otaheite, and the Society Ifles. Wc were re-
ceived on fhore with the fame demondrations of joy as
at Middlcburg, and the gentlemen' fet out into th»
country, except the two commanders, who dlftributied
prefenu to fuch ofthe natives as Attago pointed out,
who were afterwards difcovered to be of fuperior rank
to himfelf; though at this tim^ by ^e attei^tion paid
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COOK'i SECOND VOYAOE*«-fbr making Difio^eries fti the South Seat & Round the fTor/J. 141
to him, he Appeumi to be the princitMl perfon. Hev-
iBgcompiunedof dw heat.. Atugo (hewed andTcated
wunderthe (hade of a.lai|p.tieet and the people,
iritoweKOKlei«dtoibtiii«ci|Pcle« never attempted to
paft the preTcribcd bounds, and ctoud upon ui, a* did
' thoTe of Oubeite. After having been here fiyne time,
.we hinted oiir de(tre to (^ the countryt whereupon
Atttop immediately conduced ui along a lane that
tenmmted in anonai green, on one fide of which we
.lawalMaccof worlhip, built on a, mount about eigh-
teen (eec bigb.. ItwwanoUoqgfqoare, inclofedbya
>$i»e puapet wbU, about three ieet in height i from
which the mount, covered with green turf, rofe to the
building with a gnuJtNtl dope. The buUdii^ was
twenty lir fiwrteen feet, whdi we had advanced
within fifty yards of its front, every one fat down on
the green. Three elderly men.. whom we took for
prielts, begun a prayer, having their fiKes to the
noufe, which lafted about ten minutes, and this b^-
iiu ended, they came and teucd themfelves by us.
We made them prefenuof what we had about us. and
then proceeded to view the premifes. to which they
did noit (hew the lead rehKtance. The houfe was
feuik in every refpefi like their common dwellings, with
polls and rafixrs. covered with palm thatch. The
caves came down within three feet of the ground,
and the open fpace was filled up with ftrong matting
made of palm-leaves as a wall. In the front, leading
to the top of this, were two (tone fteps; and round the
houfe was a gravel walk : the floor alfo was laid with
fine gravel, in the center whereof was an obloog fquare
of blue pebbles, nifed fix inches higher. In one angle
of the building ftood an image roi^ly carved in wood,
and another hv on one fide. This inuge was turned
over and x>ver by Attago, as he would have done any
other log of wood, which convinced us, that they
were not confidered by the natives as objcdb of wor->
ihip. We put feverai quefiions to Attago concerning
this matter, but did not underftand his anfwers ; fi>r
our readers are to be informed, that, at our fird arrival,
-we hardly could underftand a word die people fiiid. We
thought it neceffiuy toleave an offering, and therefore
laid down upon the platform fome mMale. nails, and
other thuigs, which our friend immediately took up
and put in his pocket. We could not tonceive how
th» could cut (uch laige ftones out of the coral rocks,
wiui which the walls were made that inclofed the
mount, ioad leading into the country, about fixteen feet broad,
and as level as a bowling-green, feverai other roads in-
terfedted it, all inclofed on each fide with neat reed-
fences, and (haded by fruit-trees. The country here-
abouts is furprizingly fertile, inlbmiich, that we might
eafily have imagined ourfclves in the moft pleafiuit (uu-
ation that Europe could afford. Here are various de-
Iwhtfiil walks, and not an inch of uncultivated ground.
Nature aflifted by art no where appears to more aovan*
tage than in this fertile foot. The roads, evdt nehig^
puUic one, which was about fixteen, feet broad, occu-
jmed no more (pace than was abfolutety neceffiuy, nor
did the boumnriee and fenoes take up above four
inches each, and in many places of thelc were planted
wfefiiltriwa and plants. On every fide you law the
Ume vpoenfUKtti nor did change of place aherthe
fceoe. m thia uanQwrtii^ blace we met great num-
ben of pcoplifloiilgto, the (hips loaden with fruit, and
coming trota them; all of whom gave us the road, hy
cither tumingto the right or left hand, fining down, or
fiandiiu ftill with their backs to the fences. uU we had
pafled by them. In mmy of the cn>(s roads, were
' No, 16,
A-fi»-tou>cas, whofe mounts were furrounded with
paUiliidoes. After -having walked feverai miles, we
came to a more fpacious one, near to which was a iargc^
houfe, the property of an old chief, who was one of
our company. Here we were regaled with fruit j but
our ftay was (hort, and our guides having conducted us
down to our boat, we returned with Attago to
our (hip. to dinner. When aboard an old man was
u(heredinto the cabbin: we placed him at ubie, and
foon perceived he was a man of confequence, for At-
tago, the chief being almoft blind, eat with his back
towards himi and as toon as the old man returned
alhore, which was after he had ufted the filh, and
drank two glaffes of wine, Attago took his place at
the table, finiihed his dinner, and drank alfo two
glaffes of wine. After dinner we all went alhore again.
We found the old chief, who, in return for his fleoder
meal, prefcnted us with a hog. Before we fet out for
the country, Capt. Cook went down with Attago to the
landing-pucc, where he found Mr. Wales laughing at
his perplexing -fituation. The boats that brought us
aihorc not having been able to get clofe in with the
landing-place, Mr. Wales had pulled off his (hoes and
ftockings to. walk through the water, and, when on
dry ground, fitting down, he put them between his
legs, ii\ order to. put them on, when in an inftant
they were fnatched away by a perlbn behind him,
who immediately mixed with the croud. The man
he could not follow bare-footed over the (harp coral
rocks I the boat was put back to the (hip, all his com,-
panions had made their way through the croud ; and
ne was found by the captain in this forlorn condition :
but the friendly Attago foon fct him at liberty, by find-
ing out the thief, and recovering the (hoes and ftock-
ings. We now began our excui^on into the country.
Having paffed the firft-menrioned Apiatouca, the old
chief (hewed us a pool of frc(h water, though we had
not made the Icaft enquiry for any. It is very proba-
ble this is the bathing place for the king and his no-
bles, mentioned by Tafman. From hence we were
conduded down to the (hore of Maria Bay, or N. E.
fide of the ifle, where we were (hewn a boat-houfe, in
which was a large double canoe not yet launched. Th«
old chief did not fail to make us fenfible that it be-
longed to him. Night now approaching, Attago at-
tended us to the beat, and we returned aboard. As
to the botanizing and (hooting parties, that were out
with us the fame day, they were all civilly treated, and
well entertained by the natives. The party alfo at the-
market on (hore had a bri(k trade, and many advantage-
ous hatpins. They procured plenty of bananas,
yams, cocoa-nuts, pigs, and fowls, for nails and pieces
of cloth. A boat from each (hip was employed to
bring off their care;oes, by which means we obtained
cheaper, and with Tefs trouble a good quantity of re-
fre(hments from thofc of the natives who had no ca-
noe* to carry their commodities off to the (hips.
Gu Toefday the 5th, early in the morning, the cap-
uin's (riend, Attago, brought him a hog and fome
fruit, for which, m return, he received a hatchet, a
fiieet, and fome red cloth. The pinnace having been
fent onlhore to trade, as ufual, foon returned, and wc
were informed that the natives, in many refpoSs, were
exceeding trouUefome. The da]^ befoif thqr lud dole
the boat's grapling, and at this time they were for u-
king every thing out of the pinnace. It was therefore
judoed neceffaty to have on (hore a guard, uid accord*
a;fy the marines were fent, under the connmand of
eutenant Edgcumbe. Thefe were foon after fol-
lowed by the two commanders, Attup, and feverai of
the gentlemen. On landing, the w chief prdented
C^pt. Cook with a pig j and then Mr. Hodges, ac-
companied by the two captains, took a walk into the
countiy, in order to make drawii^ ; after which, they
all returned with Atta^ and two other chiefs on board,
to dinner, one of which hft had fent a hoeon board
die Adventure, fome hours before^ for Capt.Tumeaux,
without requiriiw aiw return, i a fingular inftanceof
Ssnerofity this : but Attaflo did not omit to put Capt.
00k in mind of the pig we old kipg gave hun in the
a N morn'
.1 i|
itfiiil
14a
Capt. COOK '8 VOYAGES COMPLETE.
Mta4
raornin^, for which he hid in return, a chequed (liirt,
and a piece of red cloth. He deiired to put iliem on,
which when done, he went upon deck, and fhcwed him-
fclf to all his countrymen. He had done the fame
with the flieet the captain gave him in the morniite ;
but when we went on Ihore in the evening, the old
'chief took to himfclf every thing Attago and others had
got in their poflfcfTion. This (»y the different trading
Srties procured for both (hips a good fupply of re-
fhmcnts ; the iailors therefore had leave to purchafe
any curiofities they might fancy ; which opportunity
they embraced with great eagemefs ; indeed they be-
came quite the ridicule of the natives from their third
after trifles, who jeeringly offered them (licks and
ftones, io exchange for otncr things ; and one waggifii
boy took a piece of human excrement on the end of a
ftick, and offered it for fale to every one he met. This
day a fellow found means to get into the mailer's cab-
bin, and Aole fome books and other asticles, with
which he was making off in his canoe. On being pur-
fued by one of our boats, he left the canoe, and took
to the water ; but as often as our people attempted to
lay hold of him, he dived under the boat, and at laft,
having unfhipped the rudder, got clear off. Other
daring thefts were committed at the latKling-place.
One nun dole a feaman's jacket, and would not part
with it till purfued and fircdi at.
Wednefday the 6th our friend Attago vifitcd us
■gain as ufual, brought with him a hog, and afFlled
us in purchaling many more. We went af;erwarris on
(hore, vifited the old chief, with whom we flayed till
noon, and then returned on board to dinner, accompa-
nied by Attngo, who never one day left Capt. Cook.
Being about to depart from this ifland, a prc(cnt was
made for the old kmg, and carried on (hore m the even-
ing. When the captain landed, he was informed by
fome of the oflficei*, that a far greater man than any
we had yet fecn, was come to pay us a vifir. Mr.
Pickerfgill faid, he had feen him in the country, and
believed he was a man of great confequenre, by the ex-
traordinary refp«fl paid him by all ranks of people ;
fixne of wIkhh, when they approached him, fell on
their feces, and put their head lictween their feet ; nor
do any pafs him without permiilion. Upon his arrival,
Mr. Pickerfgill and another gentleman took hold of his
arms, and cfcorted him down to the landing-place,
where we found him (catcd with fuch an affedlcd gravity,
that we really thought him an ideot, whom, from fome
fuperflitious notions, the people v ere ready to adore.
When Capt. Cook falutcd and addrclfed him, he nei-
ther anfwered, nor took the lead notice of him. And
as there appeared in the features of his countenance
not any alteration, the captain ntts about to leave him
to his private cogitations; but an intelligent youth
cleared up all our doubts, and from his information,
we wcte now fully convinced, that what we took fo/^'a
(lupid fool was the principal head man, or king of the
ifland. Therefore the prefent, intended for the old
chief, was prefented to him. It confifled of a (hirt,
an axe, a piece of red cloth, a looking glafs, fome
nails, medals, and beads ; all of which were put upon,
«r laid down by his majelly, without his fpeaking one
word, or turning his head either to the right or left.
We departed ftotn this living (latuc, and had not been
long on boardi befbrc he fent us a prefent of provifions,
conliding of about twenty bafkets of roadcd bananas,
four bread attd yams, and a roadcd pig, w^ighine
about twenty pounds. We now no longer queftionra
the real dignity of this fulien chief. When thefe things
were brought down to the water fide. Mr. Edgecumoe
and his party were coming off to the vcffels, and the
bearers of the prefent faid it was fhwn the Arccke,
(that is king) of the ifland, to the Arccke of the (hip.
On ThurTday the 7th of 0£bber, early in the mom-
itig, our two commanders, accompanied by Mr. Forder,
Went atttOK, to make a return to the Areekc of the
ifland fyr hit kft night's prefent. They foon found
Attaim, of whom we learnt, that hia majefly's name
was Ro-haghee-too-Fallaiwou. Ader fome little time
he appeared with a very tew attendants. Bj Att^'s
w
delire we all fat down under a tree, and tttc kinti; ftatcd
himfelf on a rifing ground, about twelve yaras flwn
ua. We continued fome minutes Tacii^ each ikhit,
cxpedHng Attago would (ntmdiice us idhitmajtHyt
but obTerving no figns of this, the two captaias wei*,
and havAig lahited the king fat down by him. Th^
then put on him a white fliirt, and laid down befbrc him
a few yartis of red cloth, a brafs kettle, a ftw, tUti
laigc foikcs, three looking glaties, twelve rtiedals, and
fome firings of beads. AH this time he behaved in the
manner before related, fittiiw like a (latue ; his antia
fecmed immoveable ; he fpMC hot one word, nor IJM
he fecm to know what we were about. ' When we gave
hln to underdand by ligns and words, that we dioutd
foon depart from his iftand, he made not the Ieaft.rc-
ply ; but when we had took leave, we perceived he con-
vcrfed with Attago, and an old womah ; and in ihb
courfeof this converfation he laughed heartily in ({>ite
of his alfumcd gravity ; for it could not be his real dit-
pofition, feeing he was in the prime of life, and thcTe
iflanders, like all others we had lately been acquainted
with, are much given to levity. We were now intro*-
duced by Attago in j another circle of ft^fpedhible old
people of both fexes, among whom were our friend,
the aged chief, and the pried, who was generally in
his company. We concluded, that the juice of pep-
per-root, had the fame effcdl that drang liquors nave
on Europeans, when they drink too much of them ;
for we obfervcd, that the reverend father could walk
very well in the morning, but in the evening was gene*
rally led home by two friendly fupporters. Wc were
a little at a lots how to take leave of the old chief, hav-
ing, wc feared, almod exhauded all our choiccd dorfi
on the king ; but having examined our pockets, and
Capt. Cook's treafury &g, which he always carried
with him, wc colicrted together a tolerable good pre-
fent both for the chief and his friends. This old chief
had a natural air of dignity, which the king had ndt.
He was grave, but not fulien ; would talk at times in a.
jocular manner, and when convcrfing only on indiffe-
rent fubjedts, would endeavour to underdand us, and
be underdood himfcIf. The pried in all our vifits
would repeat a (hort prayer, which none in the com-
pany attended to, and which for our parts we did not
underdand. Having continued a focial converfation
with thefe friends near two hours, we bid them fkrc-
well, and repaired to our (hip with Attago, and a fc#
of his friends, who ader brcakfiift were diimiired k»dcd
with prefcnts. Attago very drongly importuned us tj>
call again at this ifle on our return, and requeded of
the captain, more than once, to bring him a fuit of
clothes like thofc he then had on, which was his uni-
form. This friendly iflander, during our day, was,
on fevcral occaiions, very fcrviccabic to us. He daily
came on board in the morning, foon after dawn, and
frcquendy dayed with us till the evening. When on
board or on (hore, he performed every kind office for
us in his power, the cxpcnce for his fervices was tri-
fling, and wc thought hiin a very valuable friend.
1 he fupplies wnich we procured from this ifland
were ^bout one hundred and fifty pigs, double that
number of fowls ; as many bananas, Src. as we could
find room for, and, had we continued tenger, we
might have had more than our wants require^. We
were now about to depart, when, in heaving the coad-«
ing cable, it broke, by being chadded by the rocks ; by
which accident wc lod neariy half the cable, together
with the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water,
without any buoy to it ; from whence ajudgment may
be formed of this anchorage. At ten o'clock P. M.
we got under fail, but our decks being encumbered
with fruit, fowls, &c. we kept plying under the land
till they were cleared. Before we continue the hidory
of this voyage, wc (hall here give a particular account
of this ifland, and its neighrauring one of Middle-
burgh, a dcfcription of which wc doubt not U'ill afford
an agreeable entertainment to our reader^, and very
numerous tubfcribers, who have favoured thh worK
with a generous encouragement, equal to our mod fanc-
euinc expedbtions and wi(h«s.
* ^ Thefe
f * \
It'
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i 1 ■
ind lively. The women are cfpecially very merry and
fociable, and would chat with us, without being invited,
or if wcfeemcd attentive, without conflderin^ whether
we undcrfteod them or not. They appeared in f[eneral
to be modcA : yet inftancn of thole of a different
chandler were not wanting; and having (bme venereal
complaints, Capt. Cook took all poffible care, that the
diforder (hould not be communicated to them. When-
ever opportunity ferved, they difcovered a (trong pro-
penfity to pilfering, and in the art of thieving arc full
as knowing and dexterous as the Otaheiteans. Their
hair, particularly of the females, is black, but fome of
the men have a method of (laining their hair with various
colours, as white, red, and bkie, which we faw upon the
fiime head. It is wore cut (hort, and we met with only
two exceptions to this cuftom. The boys have only a
iingle loctc on the top of the hcnd, cobbed upwards,
and a fmall quantity od each fide. The beards of the
men are (haved quite clofe with two (hells ; and even
thofc of an advanced age have fine eyes, and in general
good teeth. They are tattoawed from the middle of
the thigh to above the hips t but among the women,
the fliin is pundurcd veiy (lightly, and that only on
their arms and Hn^ers« Their drcfs Confifts of a piece
of cloth or mattmg, hanging below the knees, but
from the waift upwards they are generally naked. Their
ornaments arc bracelets^ amulets, and necklaces, com-
pofed of bones, (hells, and beach, of mother of pearl.
The women have a curious apron made of the outward
fibres of the cocoa>nut (helf : fmall pieces of this ftuif
are fewed together in fuch a manner as to form ftars,
half moons, and fquares, &c. and the whoh: is (ludded,
and decorated with red feathers, fo as to have a plcaf-
ing ettcdl. They wear alfo rings on their fingers made
of tortoifcfhell, and pendants of the fame, about the
fnc of a fmall quill ; but though all have their ears
bored, yet thefe lall kind of ornaip -n"; are not worn in
tommon. The natives of tlvic i (lands make the fame
forts of cloth, as the inhabitants ut Otahcitc ; but they
have not fuch a variety, nor any of fo fine materials ;
yet having a method of glazing their cloth, it is more
durable than that at Otaneite, and will tc-fid: rain for
Ibmc time. Their matting is of vairiou6 kinds j fomc
very fine, and generally ufed for cloathing ; another
fort is thick and ftronger, which ferves them for fails,
and to deep on. The colours of their cloth are black,
brown, purple, yellow, and red; all extra(5ted from
vegeti^s. They make many little toys, which fuf-
fkiently evinces their ingenuity: and among their
utenfils are various forts of curious ba(kcts, fomc made
of the fame materials as their mats, and others of the
twitted fibres of cocoa -nuts; which prove in the work-
manlhip, that thefe people want neither tafte to de-
fign, nor (kill to execute. How they amufe themfelves
in their leifure hours, we cannot particularly and po-
fitively fay, being but little acquainted with their di-
vcrfions. We were entertained frecjueatly with fongs
from the women, in an agreeable (tile, and the muUc
they accompanied by fnapping their fingers, fo as to
keep time to it. Both this and their voices arc very
harmonious; and they have a confiderablc compafs in
their notes. Among their muflcal inftruments, which
came under our knowledge, they have a drum, or rather
an hollow log of wood, on the fide of which they beat
with two drum fticks, whereby is produced adoleiiil
found, not quite fo mufical as that of an empty ca(k.
We faw one of thefe drums five feet and a half kmg,
and thirty inches in girt. It had a flit in it frona one
end to the other, about three inches wide, by means of
which it had been hollowed out> They have alfo two
mufKal pipes ; one a lai|^ flute made of a piece of
bamboo, which, they fill with breathing throurii their
nofes : thefe have four ftops, whereas thofi: at Otdieite
have only two. The other inftiumcm ia co mp ofed of
to or II fnuil reeds of unequal lengths, bound t
mauwe, out wc had fuch a hard gale for two days, that
drove us off the land jull as wc were in fight of port.
^ This was very mortifymg ; but two favourable circum-
' nances attended it, for we were in no danger of a lee-
Ihofe, and it was fair over head. In the evening of
the twenty-fifth wc endeavoured to find the Adventure,
which the fiorm had feparated, but without etiiedl, the
weather being fi> hazy, that we could not fee a nulc
lound us. 61 the twenty-eighth we faw the Adventure
about five miles to leeward, and we kept company with
her till the night of the twenty-ninth, when (he difap-
pcared. nor did wc fee her at day-light. Ghadottc
No. 17.
Sound was the appointed place of rendezvous 1 and al
wc had feparated from the Adventure, we were obliged
to make tor it. otherwife Capt. Cook would ha\c fought
a fupply of wood and water further fouth. We flood
to the callward, in hopes of meeting with the Adven-
ture. On the fccond «f November the morning was
very clear, and we kept a fharp look-out for the Ad-
venture s but as we could not iec her, we judged (he
was got intothe Sound. Wc accordingly n.ailc .or the
iliorc of Eakeinomauwe. In doing which we d fcp-
vered an inlet, which the captain had never obferved
before, on the eaft fide of Cape Teerew hitte. We an-
chored in twelve fathoms water, at the entrance of this
inlet ) and fcvcral of the inhaljitants came on board,
who were extravagantly fond of nails. We ran up into
Ship Cove on the third of November, where we ex-
Ktted to fee the Adventure, but were difappointed.
ere we were obliged to unbend the fails, w hich had
been very much damaged in the late fionns. Several
people came on board, who rcmcmbcicd the Endea-
vour when on this coaft, particularly an old man called
Goubiah. The empty cafks were ordered on fliore, and
the neceffary repairs both to them and the fhips were or-
dered to be made. We were unfuccefsful in our fiflurg
parties, who caught no fifli. but were well fuppliedby
the natives with that ufeful article. On opening the
bread cafks, wc found a great deal of it damaged ;
that whicli remained good we baked over again, in or-
der to prefervc it.
On Friday the fifth, one of the natives took an op-
portunity of flealing one of the feamen's bag of cloaths,
which, with fome difficulty, we recovered. This made
our people more cautious in future. Wc found one of
theu>ws which Capr. Furneaux had put on fhore, and
were informed that the boar and other fow were taken to
another part, but not killed. We were mortified very
much when we heard that old Goubiah had killed the
two goau which Captain Cook put on fliore, and were
concerned to think that our endeavours to Aock this
countiy with ufeful animals were likely to l>e rendered
fruitlefs, by thofe very people for whofe benefit they
were defigned. But nature had amazingly afTifted our
intentions in thf gardens, where every thing was in a
flouriihing Hate, except the potatoes, which were moft
of them dug up. Wc put on fliore another boar and
fow, with tyo cocks, and four hens. We purchafed a
laige (Quantity of fifh from the natives, who were very
much mclined to theft; wc detciited them picking our
pockets very frequently. Several llrangcrs came to
vifit us in five canoes, they took up their quarters in a
cave near us, and decamped the next morning with fix
of our fraall water calks. All the people whom wc
found on our arrival likewife went with them. Some
of them returned in a day or two, and fupplied us with
fifh.
On Monday, the fifteenth, we made a party to the
fummit of one of the hills, in order to look tor the
a O Advotjp
I
Mb:-.
h
I4A
apt. COOKi VOYAGES COMPLETE.
if- '
i\~
Adventure, but were (lifappointed, and totally at a
loft to know what wo* iKcoincof her. When we re-
turned, the natives were collci^ted round our boat, to
whom we made fome prefents, and went on board. We
were very well fupplicd with fifli during our (lay here.
On the twentv-fecond we took one boar and three fows,
together witn fome cockt and hem, into the uoodi,
where we left them with provifion funicicnc tor ten or
twelve days, with hopes that the natives would not dif-
cover them till they had bred. Our olficerii having vi-
fitcd the dwelling>places of fevenil of the natives, ftnmd
fbmc human bones, from which the Hefli appeared to
be lately taken 1 and on the twentv-third, they Dcing on
(hore, (aw tht head and bowels of a youth, lately
killed, lying on the beach 1 his heart was (luck on' a
fork, and fixed at the fore part of one ot the targed ca-
noes. The head was bought, and brought on board,
where one of the natives broiled and eat it before the
whole (hip's company, and the (ight made fcveral of
them fick. Oedidee, whom we had brought with us,
exprelTed his horror at this tranfaction in terms which
it IS impofllble forus to defcribe. It is certain that the
New Zealandcrs are cannibals, which this circumftancc
fully proves ; but from all we could learn, they only
eat the flevilions and vegetables, and wc had, at this
time, neither a fcorbutic nor fick perfon on board.
Before we quitted the Sound, we left a memorandum,
fetting forth the d.iy of our departure, what courfe we
intended (leering, &c. and buried it in a bottle, where
it mud be ditcovered, (hould Capt. Furneaux touch
here, though we did not place any great expedation
in fuch an event. We failed from hence on the twenty-
fifth of November, and fought the Adventure in Ic-
ral harbours, but without eticCt. All hopes of feeing
lier again were now vanilhed, and wc fet about our in-
tended difcovcries by ourftlvcs. The (hip's company
were perfctflly fatislied with Capt. Cook's care and con-
duifl, and did not cxprefs any uneadncfs at our being
unattended.
On Friday, the twenty-fixth, we (leered to the fouth,
and on Monday the (ixth of December found ourfclves
antipodes to our London friends. We were then in
3. latitude co dcg. 17 min. and E. longitude 179 deg.
40 min. We met with feveral flights of our old con>-
fianions, albatrolTcs, petrels, &c. Wc failed through
arge quantities of loofe ice on the fourteenth of No-
vember, and difcovered many ice iflands. Wc were
foon embayed by the ice, and were obliged to (Iretch to
the N. W. Wc were now in much danger, owing to the
Ice iflands and the fog. Wc attempted to take lomc of
the ice on board, but without cfTed; but on the fcven-
tecnth we fuccecded, and got on board as much as wc
CQuld manage.
Tucfday, the twenty-lirft, we came the fecond time
within the antardlic circle; and on a Hidden got a-
mong a great quantity of loofe ice, and a cluder of ice
illands, which it was very diflicult to deer clear of, as
the fog was very thick. On the twenty-fourth they in-
crcafed fo fad upon us, that wc could fee near an hun-
dred round us, befldes an adonilhing quantity of fmall
pieces. Here wc fpcnt the twenty fifth, being Chrid-
mas-day, in much the fame manner as we did the pre-
ceding one.
A n mi A On thp fecond of January, wc dccred
A. L»- 1774- N. W. in order to explore great part of
the (ea between us and our track to tne fouth ; but were
obliged to deer north-eaderly the next day, and could
not accompli(h our dc(ign. Many of the people were
attacked with (light fevers while wc were in thefe high
latitudes, but happily they were cured in a few days.
Taking cvciy circumdance into confideration, it is not
very probable that there is any extcnfive land in our
track firom Ouheite. which was about two hundred
leagues s and that any lay to the weft is ftill lefk pro-
bable i wc therefore uccred N. E. There was no fign
of land t and therefore on the eleventh wc altered our'
courfe, and deercd S. E. On the twenty-titih we
found ourfclves in a pleafant climate, and no ice in
view I on the twcnty-lixth came a third time within
the antarClic circle. On Sunday, the thirtieth, we faw
a very extcnfive field of ice, and within the field wc
dinindly enumerated nioety-feven ice hills of varioua
(izes t it is probable that luch mountains of ice were
never feen in the Greenland feas. On this account, the
attempt to get farther to the fouth, though not abfo*
lutely impouible, was yet both rafli and dangerous.
The majority of us were of opinion that this ice ex-
tended to the {K)le, as it might |x)iribly join frme land
to which it has been contiguous liiicr the earlicll times.
Should there be land to tne fouth behind this ice, it
certainly can afford no better retreat for man, bead, or
birds, than the ice itfcif, with which it mud certainly
be covered. As wc could not go any farther to the
fouth, we thought it advifeable to tack, and dand back
to the north, wing at this time in the lat. 71 dcg. 10
min. S. and 106. deg. 54 min. W. Happily for us we
tacked in good time ; for we had no fooner done it, than
a very thick fog came on; which would have been
highly dangerous when we fell in with the ice.
On the nrd of February we were able to take in fome
more ice, which, though it was cold work to colled,
fcrved us for prefent confumption when melted. Capt.
Cook was now well fatisficd that no continent was to oe
found in this ocean, but that which is totally inaccef-
(iblci he therefore determined to pafs the enfuing win-
ter within the tropic, if he met with no other objedl
worth purfuing. It was dttermined to deer for the
land difcovered by Juan Fernandez, or, in failure of
this purfuit, to fearch for Eader Illand or Davis's
Land, which wc knew very little about. The failors,
and all on board acceded to thefe' defigns, and were
happy at the thoughts of getting into a warmer cli-'
mate. We had continual gales from the eighth to the
twelfth indant, when it fella dead calm. 'The weather
varied every day confiderably till the twenty-fifth, when
Capt. Cook was perfuadcd that the difcovcry of Juan
Fernandez, if any fuch was ever made, could be no-
thing but a fmall idand, not worth notice. On the
twenty-fifth, Capt. Cook was taken fo ill as to be
obliged to keep his bed, and recovered very flowlv.
It is fomething very extraordinary, that when he could
eat nothing elle he had a mind to a dog of Mr. Forder's,
which was killed, and he relilhed K>th the fledi and
the broth made of it. This feems very odd kind of
food for a fick man ; and, in the opinion of manv peo-
f>le, would create much greater (icknefs than it was
ikely to be any means of removing.
On the nth of March land was feen from the mad-
head, which proved to be Eader Ifland : and on the
13th, wc came to an anchor in 36 fathoms water, be-
fore the fandy beach. One of the natives came on
board the (hip, where he daid two nights. He mea-
fured the length of the diip, and called the number b^
the fame names as the Ouhciteans do ; but otherwile
we could not underdand his language. A party of us
went a(horc on the 1 4th, and founda great nismber of
the natives a(remblcd, who were pacifically inclined,
and fcemed defirous to fee us. Wc made figns for
fomcthiiw to cat, after we had didributed fome trinkets
among them ; they brought us fome fugar-cancs, pota-
toes, and plantains. Wc very foon found out that thefe
gentlemen were as expert thieves as any before met
with; we could fcarce keep any thing in our pockets,
and it was with fome difficulty that wc could keep our
hats upon our heads. Thefe people fcemed to under-
dand the ufc of a mulket, and to be very much afraid
of it. Here were feveral plantations of potatoes, fugar.
canes, and plantains ; but othcrwifc the country ^ap-
peared barren and without wood. We found a well of
oracki(h water, and faw fome fowls. As the natives
did not feem unwilling to part with thefe articles, and
aaw'e were in want of them, wc determined to day a^
few davs. A trade was accordingly opened with the.
natives, and we got on board a few ca(Ks of water. A
party of officers and men were fen: up the country itx
prdcr
cook's second V0YAC;E— Jiir making Uifcovcries in the Soul/> AVfli& Round O^clVorU. 147
order to examine it| and Lapt. Cook remained on Ihorc
•mong the natives. AnaJvantagcouii trade lor |)otaio.'i
«a« oMncd, but foon put a Hop to by the owners of the
f|)ot Imiu whence they were dug. It fecnis that the;'
had ftolcn thcfc |x)tatoes 1 for they all ran away at his
appimch. From this cirrumftance it Is pretty evident
that they are not more (tridiiy honcA artiongft thcm-
fclvcs than to ftrangers. This reconnoitring party were
followed by a crowd of natives 1 and bef«)rc they had
proceeded far, they were met by a middle-aged man,
with his face uaintcd. lie had a fpcar in his hand,
•rid w.ilked along with him, keeping his countrymen
at a dilhncc, that our people might receive no molcf.
Cation from them. This man was pundUircd from head
to foot. They found the greatel> part of the illand
barren; though in many places there were planta.
lions of the roots before mentioned. They met with
the ruins of three platforms of ftone work. On each
oTthefe platforms had flood four very large Ihtues,
made of (tone, but ihey were now fallen to the ground,
and much defaced. Thefe ftatues were fifteen feet
long, and fix feet broad acrofs the (houlders. On the
hca^ of each flatue was a round red ftonc. of confider-
•blc magnitude. Travelling on, they found in fome
places a poor fort of iron ore, and afterwards came to
a fruitful part of the ifland, on which were fevcral
plantations. They could get no (|ood water in their
journey ; but they were obliged to drink what they could
Kct, on account of the extremity of their thirlh They
found the natives fo addi(tlcd to theft, that they were
obliged to tire fome fmall (hot at a man, who took
ftoin them their bag of provilions and implement-.
The (hot hit this rellow in the back, on which he
dropped the bag and fell 1 but he foon afterwards got
up and walked olt'. Some deliy was occalioned by
this aifair. 'I he man before mentioned ran round them
and repeated fcveral words, which they could rtot un-
derhand I and afterwards they were very good friends
together, no one attempting to Ileal any thing more.
A numbc.- of the natives were alFcmbled together on
a hill at fome dilYance, with fpears in their hands, but
difpcrfcd at the delirc of their countrymen. There ap.*
peared to be a chief among them, which wore a bet-
ter cioth than the reft. He had a fine open counte-
nance, and was very well made. His face was painted*
and his body pun(5lured. Thr' met with fome prcttjr
freth water towards the caftcrn end of this illand, but
it was rendered dirty by acuftom which the inhabitants
have oi walliing themfelvcs in it as foon as they have
drank. I^t the company be ever fo large, the firfl that
gets to the well jumps into the middle of it, drinks his
fill, and wafhes hlmfelf all over 1 the next docs the
fame, and fo on till all of them have drank and
wafhed. ♦
Great numbers of the gigantic (latues, before de-
fcribed, are to be feen on this part of the ifland ; one
of which they meafured, and found it to be twenty.*
feven feet long, and eight fcetbroadacrofs the (houlders.
One of thcfc figures, of an aftonifliing height, being
(landing, it afforded (liadc for the whole pany to dine
under, which confiftcd of thirty perfons. Many gained
the fummit of a hill, but could not fee any bay or
creek, nor difcovcr any (Igns of fre(h water. They re*
turned to the (hip in the evening. No (lirubs worth
mentioning were found in this cxcurfion, neither did
they fee an animal of any fort, and but very few birds<
They could not difcovcr any thing in the whole ifland
to induce (hips, in the utmod diltrefs, to touch at it.
\-n
CHAP.
V.
fbe Refohitiiinfailtfi-em Eafler Ijland to the Marqurfas — TratifafJions and imdertts wbikpe lay in Rrjoliition Bay, in thi
ijlandqf St. Chrijhna — Depart J from the Marque fas — The/e ijUmds defcribed, with an account {/" the inhabitant), their
euftoms, i^c, — The Rcfolution prepares to leave Utaheite — Another naval review — A defcription of the ifland — Her ar
rival at the ifland of Huaheine — An expedition into the fame — Furious incidents related — The flbip proceeds to Ulietea^^
Her reception there — Incidents during her flay — Qbarallerof Oedidee— General ohfervations on tlte iflandsi
ON Wcdnefday, the i6th of March, wc took our
departure from Eafter IHc, and (leered for the
Marquc(as iflands, intending to make fome flay there
if nothing material intervened. On the 6th of April,
we difcovcred an ifland, when we were in latitude 9
dcg. 10 min. and longitude 138 deg. 14 min. we were
about nine leagues diflance from it. Wc foon difco-
vcred another, more extenfive than the former, and
prcfcntly afterwards a third and a fourth ; thefe were
the Marquefas difcovered in 1 595 by Mcndana. After
various unfuccefsful trials to come to an anchor, we
ciime at lafl'beforc Mendana's port, and anchored in
thirty-four fathonu water, at the entrance of the bay.
Several canoes appeared, filled with natives, but it was
with fome difficulty they were pcrfuadcd to come along-
fide ; they were at lafl induced by fome fpike nails and
9 hatchet. From thefe people we got fume fifh and
fruit. Great numbers of them came along-fide ntxt
morning, and brought with them one pig, fome bread-
fruit and plantains, for which they received nails, &c.
We often detedcd them in keeping our ^lods, and
making no return ; which pradice was not put a ftop
to till Capt. Cook fired a mufket-ball over the head of
one man, who had repeatedly ferved us fo. Wc wanted
to get farther into the bay, and accordingly fought after
a convenient place to moor the (hip in. When Capt.
Cook faw there were too manv natives on board, he dc-
fired that they might he well looked after, or they would
ceruinly commit many thefts. Before the capuin was
well got into the boat, he wu told that a canoe, with
fome men in her, were making off with one of the
iron (lanchions from the oppofite gangway. The cap-
tain iinmcdiateljr ordered (hem 10 lire over the canoe.
but not to kill any body. There was fuch 1 noifc on
board, that his orders were not diflindly heard, and
the poor thief was killed at the third (hot. The reft
that were in the canoe leaped overboard, but got in
again jufl as Capt. Cook came up to them, and threw
overboard the (lanchion. One of the men fat !n"^hing
as he laded the blood and water out of the boat, but the
other looked very ferious and dejeifled. Wc after-
wards had reafon to think that the father of the latter
had been (hot. The natives retired with great precipi-
tation at this unhappy accident ; but their fears were in
fome meafure allayed by the captain's following them
into the bay, and making them prefents. We found
fre(h water a(horc, which wc very much wanted. One
would have imagined that the fetality attending one
poor fellow's thieving, would have difcouragcd thera
from making any more attempts of the like nature t
but no fooner was our kedgc anchor out, but two men
came from the (hore, wanting to take away the buoy,
not knowing what was faftened to it. I^eft they fbould
take away the buoy, a (hot was fired, which fell flwrt
of them: of thi| they took not the leaft notice ; but
when another was fired, which went over their heads,
they inftantly let go the buoy, and returned to the
(hore. This laft fnot had a mwd t{[c&. ; for by this
they faw that they were not Tafe at any diflance. and
they were ever afterwards much terrified at the fight of
the mufket. However, they (lill continued to pradife
their art of thieving; but it was judged better to
St up with it. as we did not intend making a long
y here. A man who had the appearance of a chief
came off to us with a pig upon his (houlder ; he waa
prefcntcd with a hatchet in return, and afterwards great
numbers
m
148
C«pf. COOK* VOVAOE8 COMPLETE.
ill
|l
It !
numbcn of the nativei came alnng.nuts, but of
thcfe not in abundaiK-e. TriHct highly valued at the
Society Ides, are lightly cftecmcd here, and even naih^
at laft, in their opmion, loft their value.
The natives, in general, are the Hncf) nice of people
in thit fea. They furpafs all other nations for (hap«
and regular features. I'he affinity of their langtMge to
that of Otaheite, and the Society Ittn, flxws that thcv
are of the fame nation. Oedidee could converfe witn
them, though we could not. I'he men are curioufl/
tattoawed. from head to toot, with various figures, that
fcem to be diredled more by fancy than by cufloin.
Thcfe punduret caufe the ikin to appear of a dark
I i but the women who arc not much punAured, and
youtht who are not at all, are as fair as fome Euro-
iicans. The men are about -five feet fix inches high 1
out none of them were fat and lufty like the Earces of
Otaheite, yet we faw not any that could be caUad
meagre. Their eyes ai:c neither full nor lively 1 their
teeth not fo good as thofe of other nations, and their
hair it of many colours, except red. Sonte have it
long ( xhe moft prevailing cuftoin is to wear it lltort 1
but a bunch on each ftde of the crown they tie in •
knot. In trimming their beards, which is in general
long, they obferve difTerent modes : fome part it, and
tie it in two bunches under the chini fome plait it, fome
wear it loofe, and others quite Oiort. Their cloathing
is murh the fame as at Otaheite, but not fo good, nor
in fuch plent)'. The men, for the moft part, cover
their nakcdncfs with the Marra, which is a Ilip of cloth
paired roiiiul the waift, and between the legs. I'hit
iimple drefs is quite fufficlent for modefty, and the cli-
mate. The women wear a pi<-ce of 4loth round their
loint, like a petticoat, reaching below the middle of
their legs, and a loofe mantle over their (houldert. '
Their head-drcfs, and what krms to l>c their principal
ornament, is a broad fillet, made curioufly of the fibrea
of the huflis of cocoa.4iuts, in the front of which is
placed a mother-of-pearl (hell, wrought round to the
(ize of a tea-faucar. Near this it one fmaller, of very
fine tortoifefhell, perforated in niriout figureti and in
the center is another round piece of mother-of-pearl,
about the fize of half a crown; before which is another
piece of perforated tortoifcfhell tha fize of a fliilling.
Some have this decoration on eteh fide, in fmalldr.
pieces I and all have annexed to them the tail-feather*
of cocks or tropic birds, which ftand upright, and the
whole raaket a very fingular ornament. Round the
neck they wear a kind of rufl^or necklace of light wood*
covered with fmall red peat, fixed on with gum.
Round their legt and arms they have bunches of hu-
man hair, fiiftened to a ftring. Inftead of hair thtf
fometimet ufe fhort feathers 1 but all thefe oraamenu
we feldom faw on the fame perfbn. The chief, indeed,
who came to vifit us,wascompIetelydre(redin thisnum-
nert but their ordinary ornaments are necklaces and
amulets compofcd of fhelis, &c. All had their cars
pierced, yet we law not any with ear-rings.
Their houfes are in the valleys, and on the fides of
hills, near their planutioni, built after the fame man-
ner ar at Ouheitc, but much meaner, being only co-
vered with the leaves of the bread-tree. Mtnt of them
are built en a pavement of fhone, an oblong, or fquare.
which is lailM above the levd of the sround. Thefe -
pavements arc liitewife*nsar their dwelitngt, on which
they eat and amufe thrnifdves. In their eating thefe
ptootc are not veryctaady. They are alfo diinr in
their cookery. They drefe their pork in an oven ot hoc
ftones; but fiuit and roou tjM^ roaft, and having
taken ofl^ the rind, they pot them into a Uough wii^
water, out of which we nave feen both menmdiwgs
eat at the fame
ceeding beautiful, and their notes fwcctly varied. Wc
did not (hoot as many of them as we might have done,
from apprchcnfions of alarming and terrifying the na-
tivcsi
On Sunday, the 17th, at ten o'clock A. M. having
ftcercJ W. by S. land was fcen bearing W. half N.
being a chain of bw iflots, connected tttoethcr by a
reef of coral rooks. We ranged the N. W. coaft till
we came to a creek or inlet, and which Teemed to have
a comimmication with a lake in the center of the ifland.
Having a dciirc of furvcying thefe half drowned iflots,
we hoifled out a boat, and fent the iiiafter in to found.
While the Kefolution ran along the coafl, the natives
were feen in different places armed with lorig fpcars and
clubs, and a group of them were obfervcd on one fide
of the creek. As they fhewed fome figns of a friendly
difpofition, two boats were Tent afliorc well armecl,
under the command of Lieutenant Cooper, who was
accompanied by Mr. Forfter. Wc faw our people land
without any oppofition from a few natives handing on
the fliore ; but perceiving, a little time after, forty or
fifty, all armed, coming down to join them, we flood
clofer in Ihore, with the view of fupporting our people
in cafe they fliould be attacked -, but our boat returned
without any thing of this kind having happened. By
Mr. Cooper we were informed, that many of the na-
tives hovcrtxl about the fl« with fifh and fruit fuflicient for
the whole crew. Our firfl bulincfs was to erect tents
for the rccepf'onof fuch of our people as were required
on fliore- Sick we had none, for the rcfrefliments we
got »' the Marquefas, had been the incans of removing
vvery complaint of the fcorbutic kind, and of pre-
ferving the whole crew in good health; We alfo lint
afliore Mr. Wales's inftruments i our thief rcafon fiir
putting into this place being to afford him an onpor-
tunity to afcertain the error of the watch by the know n
longitude, and to determine precifcly its rate of going.
. On Sunday, the 34th, Otoo and other chiefs, with a
train of attendants, brought us ten large hogs, bclidcs
fruit, which made their vUit exceedingly agreeable. A»
^ P the
•
i
150
Capt. COOK'S VOYAGES CO'MPLfeTE.
i
i' ''
1
i'^
the king's coining had been announced to us, and know-
ii^ how'inuch it was our intcreft to keep this chief our
fncnd, Capt. Cook met him at the tenu. andconduded
the whole of this retinue, with himfcif, on board,
where they (laid dinner, and appeared highly pleafed
with their reception. Next day, notwithUandmg we
had much thunder, lightning, and rain, the kingcame
again to fee us, and brought with him another prcfent,
confiding of a large quantity of refrefhmente. When
at Amilerdam, we had colleded, aitwng other curio-
fities, fomc red parrot feathers. Thefc precious va-
luables procured us hogs, fruit, and every other thing
the idand afforded. Our having them was a fortunate
circumftance ; for our Hock in trade bcii% greatly ex-
haufted, without thefe we thould have foum) it diffi-
cult to have fupplied the (hip with nccelTary refrcfh-
ments. When we put into this ifland, we intended to
ftay no longer than Mr. Wales had made the ncceilary
obfervations for the purpofes already mentioned ; and
fuppofing we Ihould meet with no better fuccefs than
we did the laft time we were here. But the reception
we had already met with, and the few excurlioas we had
made to the plains of Mauvai and Oparrce, convinced
us of our error ; for at thefe two places we found built,
and building, a large number of canoes and houfes of
ever)' kind : people living in fpacious houfes, whohad
not a place to fheltcr themfelves in eight months be-
fore ; alfa feveral hogs in every houfc, with many other
figns of a rifing Itatc. On account of thefe favourable
circumftanccs, we refblvcd to make a longer (lay at
this ifland, and to repair the (hip, which was now in-
difpcnfably neceffary. Accordingly the empty cafks
and fails were got afhore, the (bip was ordered to be
<;aulked, and the rigging to be overhauled.
On Tucfday, the e6th, Capt. Cook, accompanied
by foine of the ofliccrs and gentlemen, went down to
Oparrce, to vifit Otoo by appointment. When arrived,
we faw a number of laige canoes in motion, but were
much furprized at perceiving more than three hundred
ranged along fliore, all completely equipped and
manned ; bcndes a vad number of armed men upon
the (liore. We landed in the midfl of them, and
were received by a vafl multitude, fomc under arms,
and fome not. The cry of the former was Tiyono
Towha, and of the latter was Tiyo no Otoo. Towha,
we afterwards learnt was admiral, or comnnander of
the fleet. Upon our landing we were met by a chief,
named Tee, uncle to the king, of whom we enquired
for Otoo. Soon after we were met by Towha, who re-
ceived us in a friendly manner. He took Capt. Cook
by the one hand, and Tee by the other, and dragged
him, as it were, through the crowd that was divided
into two parties, both of which proclaimed themfelves
his friends, by crying out Tiyo no Tootee. One party
wanted him to go to Otoo, and the other to remain
with Towha. When come to the ufual place of au-
dience. Tee left us to go and bring the king. Towha
infilled on the captain's going with him, but he would
not confent. When Tee returned, he took hold of his
hand in order to condud him to the king. Towha
was unwilling he fhould fit down, and defired him to go
with him ; but this chief being a flranger, he refiifed to
comply . Tee was very defi rou s of conducting the cap-
tain to the king; lowha oppofed, and he was obliged
to defire Tee to defifV, and to leave him to the admiral
and bis party, who condw^ted him down to the fleet.
Here we found two lines of armed men drawn up be-
fore the admiral's vefTel, in order to keep olF the crowd
that we might go on board ; and when the e<(puinmade
an cxcufe, a man fquattcd down, and offered to carry
him , but he would not go. At this timeTowha quhtcd
us, without our feeing which way he went, nor woula
any one inform us. We were now joftled about in the
croud. We faw Tee, and imjuirinc of him for the
king, he told us he was gone into the county of Ma-
taou,' and he advifed us to repair to the boat, which
we accordiiffily did, as foon as we could get coliedcd to-
gether. When in our boat we took our time to recon-
noitre the grand fleet. We told an hundred and fixty
large double canoes, equipped, inanaed. and anncd t
I
but we believe they had not their full complement of
rowen. The chiefs and all thofe on the fighting
ftages, were habited in cloth, turbans, bread plates,
and heintKU. Some of the latter feemed much to n.
cumber the wearer. Be this as it may, the whole of
their drefs added a grandeur to the profpedl, and they
were fo complaifiint as to (hew themfelves to the bcfl
advantage. Their veflels were full drcffed with flags,
dreamers, &c. fo that the whole fleet made fuch a
noble appearance, aa we had never before feen in
this fea, and what no one could haveexpeded. Their
indruments of war were clubs, fpears, and dones.
The veflels were ranged clofe along fide of each other,
having their head* to the diore, and their dcrns to the
fea. The admiral's veflcl was nearly in the center. We
counted, exdufive of the veiTels of war, an hundred
and fevcnty fail of fmaller double canoes, all rigged
with mad and fail, which the '>var canoes had not.
Thefe vc judged were defigned for tranfports, vidu-
allers, &c. for in the war canoes were no forts of pra-
vifions whatever. We conjcSured that in thefe tnree
hundred and thirty vefTels there were no Icfs than feven
thoufand feven hundred and fixty men, a number in-
credible, efpecially as we were told they all bcloiu;ed
to the didridsof Attahourou and Ahopatca. Moft of
the gentlemen, by their calculations, thought the num-
ber of men belonging to the wii canoes exceeded this,
allowing to each war canoe forty men, and to each of
the finall canoes eight. Having viewed this fleet, >t
was our intention to have gone on board, could wc have
fcen the admiral. We enquired for him but to no pur-
pofe. At lad Tee came, by whom we were informed,
that Otoo was gone to Matavai. This intelligence gave
ri fe to new conjedures. When we got to Matavai , our
friends told us, that this fleet was part of the arma-
ment intended to go againd Eimeo, whofe chief had
thrown off the yoke of Otaheite. Wc were dill at a
lofs to account for the flight of Otoo from Oparree, for
wc were informed he neither v/as nor had been at Ma-
tovai. We therefore went thither again in the after-
noon, where we found himj and learnt, that the rea-
fon of his abfcondii^ in the morning was, becaufc fome
of his people had dole fome of the captain's clothes
which were walhing at the tents, and he feared reditu-
tion would be dentuinded. He repeatedly afked Capt.
Cook if he was not angry, nor could he be eafy till af-
fured, that the pilferers might keep the dolen things.
Towha alfo was alarmed, thinking that Capt. Cook was
difpleafed, and jealous of feeing Tuch a force fo near us,
witnout knowing its dedination. It happened unluckily
that Oedidee was not with us in the morning ; for Tee,
who was the only man wc could depend on, ferved ra-
ther to increafe our perplexity. Thus by mutual mif-
underdanding, we loft a favourable opportunity of
fcrudnizing ale na\nd force of this ifle, and making
ourfelves better acquainted with its manoeuvres. It
was comnunded by an intelligent and brave chief, who
was difpofed to have fatisded us in all quedions we had
thought proper to tSk. ; and from the nature of theob-
\e£ts, which were before us, we could not well have
mifunderdood each other. All midakcs being now
re&ified, and prefenu having paflTed between Otoo
and Capt. Cook, we took leave and returned on board.
On Wednefday, the 17th, in the morning, Towha
fent us by two of his fervanu, two large hogs, and
fome fruit. The bearers of this prefent had orders
not to receive any thing in return, nor would they
when offered thenu Some of our gentlemen went
with the captain in his boat down to Oparree, where
we found Towha, and the king ; after a flwrt vifit,
we brought them both on board, together with Tare-
vatoo, the king's yoi^ger brother. When we dre^
~«r the diip, the admiral, who had never feen one be*
fore, ^xpicwd ftrong figns of furprize, and whpn oi^
board. n» was duwed, and beheld every part of it
with great attenrion. When Towha retired after din-
ner, he put a hogonboaH without our knowledge, or
waiting for a return 1 and Iomx after Otoo and his a^•
tendants departed alfo. There « the Ijcft
vith flags,
!e fuch a
feen in
1, Their
id (loncs.
»ch other,
rns to the
inter. We.
1 hundred
ill rigged
had not.
rts, vidu-
ts of pro-
thefe tnreC
than fevcn
lUmber in-
I belonged
, Moft of
t the iium-
jedcd this,
to each of
lis fleet, it
Id we have
to no pur-
: informed,
igcnce gave
atavai, our
the arina-
: chief had
re 11 ill at a
)parree, for
een at Ma-
i the aftcr-
lat the rea-
:caufe fome
in's clothes
ired reftitu-
ilked Capt.
cafy till af-
(len things.
Cook was
_ fo near us,
|d unluckily
; for Tee,
ferved ra-
lutual mif-
jrtunitv of
,nd making
;uvre$. It
chief, who
ions we had
of theob-
well have
being now
een Otoo
onboard.
|ng, Towha
nogs, and
Ihad orders
K-ould they
lemeh went
ce, where
[fliort vifit,
I with Tare-
In WC 6XV0
leen one bc<«
lid when on
part of it
1 after din-
Iwlcdge, or
land his ac-
ufy between
'eotit«m{
never*
ncverthclcfs Otoo paid Towha much refpwft, and was
defirous we Ihould do the fiune. Otoo had the day be-
fore frankly declared, that the admiral was not his
friend. When on board, both thefe chiefs requeftcd
our afliftance againft Tiarabou, notwithftanding dicrc
was no rupture at this time between the two ftates, and
they had informed us, that their joint forces wer» in-
tended againft Eimeo. The reafon of this duplicity
we could not find out : perhaps they were dehrous
of annexing that kingdom, by our alliance, to their
own, as it was formerly : be that as it may, «s Capt.
Cook gave them no encouragement, we heard no more
on this fubjcdt. Our endeavours to maintain a neu-
trality, we believe, were well received by both parties j
for next day, being Thurfday, the aSth, Wahea-toua.
king of Tiarabou lent us a prefent of a hog, for which
he requefted a few red feathers, which were accord-
ingly fent him. On the 29th, early in the morning,
. Otoo, Towha, and feveral chiefs, again paid us a
vifit, and brought with them not only provifions, but
fome of the moft choice curiofities oi the ifland, and
among other returns, with which they fcemcd well
pleafed, the capuin did not forget to repay the civi-
lities we had received from the admiral, Towha. Wc
muft not omit uking notice, that the preceding even-
ing, one of the natives was detected in an attempt to
fteal a cafls froju the watering place, and being caught
in the ad, he was fent on board, and we put him in
irons. Otoo and the other chiefs faw the culprit in this
fituaiion, and Otoo earneftly interceded in his behalf,
requefting with many intrcaties, that he might be fat
at liberty ; but he was told by Capt. Cook, that las our
people were puniftied for the Icaft offence committed
agamft the natives of Otahcitc, it was but juftice to
punifti this man alfo, which he was determined to fee
done in an exemplary maniier, efpccially as it was well
known, he, Otoo, would not do it himfelf. The man,
inconfequencc of the captain's refolution, was conduc-
ed aihore to the tents, where a guard was ordered out
under arms, and the offender tied up to a poft, Otoo,
his fifter, and numy of the natives being fpedators.
Otoo and his fdkr begged hard for the man ; with
whom the captain expollulated, telling Otoo, how un-
juft it was in his people to fteal from us who were their
friends, and who never took any thine from them with-
out giving certain articles, which he enumerated, in
exchange. The capuin laboured alfo to convince
Otoo, that the punilhinent he was about to inflift on
this man might prove the means of faving the lives
of others of his fubjeds ; for if they continued in fuch
kind of crimhial pnuaiccs, fome would certainly, one
time or another, be (hot dead. We believe he prettv
well underftood our commander, and fecmcd fatisfied,
only he defired the criminal might not be Matteerpu,
(or killed.) The concourfe of people was by this time
very great. The capuin therefore drew a line for
them at a proper diftance, and then, in the prefence
of them all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lafties
with a cat-o-nine-tails. This chaftifement he received
with great firmnefs, and was then fet at liberty. Upon
this the natives were going away, apparently not much
pleafed ; which Tovha perceiving, who all the time
had remained filent, though very attentive to every
thing going on, he ftepped forward, and haran-
gued them for near half an hour, in ftiort fentences.
Weunderftoodlittleof his fpeech, but from what we
could gather, it was a recapitulation of Capt. Cook's :
he mentioned feveral advantages they had received from
our people ; and having reprimanded them for their
jwclent condud, he exhorted them to adopt and purfue
a different one for the future. His adion was remark'-
ably graceful, and the profound attention of his au-
dience, proved him to be a mafterly fpeaker. Otoo
ikid not one word. When Towha had concluded his
harangue, the marines were ordered to go through
their exercife. They fired in vollies with ball, and
being very quick in chaigine, and in theif tnamsu-
vres, it is fcarcely poffihle to defcribe the aftoniftiment
of the natives durii^ the whole time, particularly the
Xmazcqiq^t pf (hof^ to whom this fight was quite a
novelty. The chiefs with all their retinue, now took
leave, we are apt to think not Icfs frightened than
tdeafcd at what they had feen. In the evening Mr.
Forfter and his party returned from an excurfion they
had made to the mountains, where they had fpent the
night. Mr. Forfter collcded fome new plants, and
found others which grew in New Zealand. He faw the
ifland of Huaheinc, fituated forty leagues to the weft-
ward t whereby -a judgment may be formed of the
height of the mountains of Otahcite.
On Saturday the ^oth, we faw ten war canoes gn
through part of their paddling exercife. They were
properly equipped for war, anH in landing wcobferved,
that the moment the canoe ichcd the ground, all the
warriors leaped out, and with the afliftance of a few
people on fhore, dragged the canoe on dry land to its
proper place; whichaone, every one walked off with
his paddle, &c. Such was their expedition, that in five
minutes time after putting afhore, no one could tell that
any thing, of the Kind had been going forward. The
warriors on the ftage encouraged the rowers to exert
themfelves, and we obferved fome youths in the curbed
ftem elevated above the reft, with white wands in their
hands, placed there perhaps to look out, and give no-
tice of what they faw. Tiie king's brother Tarevatoo,
knowing that Mr. Hodges made drawings of every
thing curious, intimated of his own accord, that he
might be fent for ; and thus an opportunity was un-
cxpedledly afforded our draughtfman, to colledl: ma-
terials for a pidure of .the Otaneite fleet, as it appeared
when affembled at Oparree. Being prefent when the
warriors undreflcd, we could fcarcely conceive how it
was pofTible for them to ftand under the quantity of
cloth with which they were clad, in time of adion.
Many rounds of this compofed a kind of turban or cap,
which, in the day of battle, might prevent a broken
head, and fome by way of ornament, had fixed to thefe
caps dried branches of fmall Ihrubs, interwoven with
white feathers.
On Sunday the 1 ft of May, feveral chiefs fupplicd us
with a large quantity of provifions ; and the day follow-
ing our fnend Towha fent us a prefent of a hog, and a
boat loaded with various forts 01 fruit and roots. We
received alfo another prefent from Otoo, brought by
Tarevatoo. On the 3d, upon examining into the con-
dition of our provifions, we found our bifcuit much
decayed, and that the airing we had given it at New
Zealand was not of the fervice wc expeded ; we there-
fore were now obliged to have it on fhore, where it
underwent another airing and picking, in doing which
we found a great part thereof wholly rotten and unfit
forufe. Wk attributed this decay of our bread to the
ice we frequently took in. which made the hold damp
and cold, which, when to the north, was fucceeded by
a contrary extreme of intcnfe heat ; but whatever was the
realcaufeof our lofs, it put us to a fcanty allowance of
this valuable article, and we had bad bread to eat bclides.
On Thurfday the 5th, in the afternoon, the botanifls
made another excurfion up the country, to the moun-
tains ; they returned the evening of next day, and in
their way made foiuc new difcoveries. On Saturday the
7th, in the morning, we found Otoo at the tents, of
whom the capuin afkcd leave to cut down fome trees
for fiieL He took him to fome growing near the fea
fhore, the better to make him comprehend what fort
we wanted; and he feemed much pleafed when he
underftood, that no trees fhould be cut down that bore
any kind of fruit. This affurance from us he repeated
feveral times aloud to the people about us. In the
afternoon we were honoured, when on hoard, with a
vifit from the whole royal family, confifting of Otoo,
his father, brother, and two fifters : but this was proper-
ly her father's vifit, ^ho brought the capuin a com-
plete mourning drefs, a prefent he much valued ; for
which he had in return whatever he defired. which was
not a little ; and to the reft of the company were pre-
fented red feathers. The whole were then conducl^ed
afhore in the capuin's boat. Otoo and his friends
werefo well pleafed with the reception they met with,
that, at parting, ve were granted the liberty of cutting
down
i
)
I
It
1 »
>5a
Capt. COOK'S VOYAGES COMPLETE.
i
down ia WMMy crccs as wc wanted, and what fort wc
plcafcd.
On SuhiUy the 8th, our fricrtiUy connctli^ions with the
natives were interrupted by the negligence of one of
our ccntincls at the tents, who had his niufket carried
away, he having flept or quitted his poll. We had
received an imperfect account of this att'air from Tee,
but we undcrQood enough to know that fomething had
happened, which alanned the king, who Tec fatd, was
under great apprchenfions of being mattecnHied. We
therefore toil no time in going alliore; and when land-
ed were informed of the whole trartfaiflion Inr the fer-
jeant who commanded the party. Moll of the natives
nad fled at our approaching the tents. Tarcvatoo flipt
from us in a moment, and a few belides Tee had courage
to remain. We went immediately in fearch of Otoo,
and in the way endeavoured to allay the fears of the
people. Havmg advanced (bme diltance from the
ihore into the country. Tec on a fuddcn Hopped, and
advifcd our returning, faying, he would priK'wd to the
mountains, whither Otoo had retired, and inform him,
that we were dill his friends; a quelUcii, and if we were
angry, that had been alkeii a number of times by the
natives. The captain now thought it was to nopurpofe
to go farther, we therefore took Tee's advice, and re-
torned aboard. After this Oedidee was difpatched to
the king, to let him know his fears were groundlcfs,
feeing the captain required of him only what was in
his power, the return of the mufquct. A fliort time after
the departure of Ocdidce, we faw fix large canoes
coming round Point Venus. Surpcding that one be-
longing to thcfe had commicted the theft, it was refolvcd
to intercept them, for which pur^wfc a boat was put
off, and another ordered to follow. One of the canoes
was ahead of the rcll, and fecmingly making for the
fliip. Wc put along tide of her, and found two or
three women whom we knew. They faid, they were
going aboard the fliip with a prcfcnt to the captain,
and that the other canoes were laden with fruit, hogs,
&c. Satisfied with this intelligence, the captain re-
called his orders tor intercepting them, thinking they
alio, as well as this one, were bound for the fliip. We
therefore left this fingle canoe within a few yards of it,
and proceeded for the fliorc to fpeak with Otoo ; but
upon landing wc found he had not been there, llook-
ing behind us we faw all the canoes, the one wc had
left near the (liip not excepted, making off in the
greatert haffe. Vexed at being thus deceived, we
refolvcd to purfuc them, and as wc paffed the fliip,
Capt. Cook gave orders to fend out anot< r boat tor
the fame purpofe. We overtook and brought five out
of the lix along-fidc, but the one by which we were
outwitted got clear off. This, in which were only a
few women, had actually amufed us with falfe (lories,
while the others, in which were moll of their effeds,
M ere to have made their efcapc. In one of the prizes
was a friend of Mr. Forller's, who had hitherto called
himfelf an Earce, alfo three women, his wife, daughter,
and the mother of the late Toutaha. This chief we
would have fcht to Otoo ; but he made many excufes,
Ciying, he w as of a rank too low for fuch an honourable
tmbaliy; that he was no liarce, but a Manahouna;
that an Earee ought to be fent to fix:ak to an Earce ;
and that as there were none of this high rank but
Otoo and the capuin, it would be much more proper
for the captain to go. At this time Tee and Oedidee
came on board, and aflurcd us, that the man who had
ftole the mufquet was fromTiarabou; and that wc might
credit their declaration, they delired us to fend a
boat to Wahcatoua, the king of Tiarabou, offering to
go themfelves in her, and recover the mufquet. This
ftory, though not altogether fatisfaCtory, carried with
it an air ofprobability ; and thinking it better to drop
the affair altogether, the capuin fuftered Mr. Forfter's
friend to depart with his two canoes. ITic other three
belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou chief, on which ac-
count it was determined to detain them ; but as Tee
and Oedidee both affured us, that Maritata and his
people were innocent, they were permitted to go off
with their canoes alfo: and (he captainmo(l violent]y,m order to con-
vince us, how he alone, and to make us fenliblc in
what manner he had killed the thief; when at the fame
time we all knew that he had been at home, and not
out of his houfe the whole tim^e, which flicws that
human nature, rcfpc^dng her original pallions and
powers, are the fame in every clime, where the fame
mflinds, the fame i^erceptive faculties, and the fame
feif love univerfally prevail.
On Monday the 9th, Tee oame again aboard to in-
form us, that Otoo was at Oparree, and requclkd of the
captain to fend a perfon, to let him know if he was (lill
his friend. He was alked, why he had not done thic
himfolf, as he was deiired ; he made a trifling excufe,
but we thought he had not fcen Otoo. As the natives
brought not any thing to market, and a (lop was coni-
fequently put to our trade with them, it was judged
time ill fpent to fend any more fhiitlefs mcflages ; a
party therctbre fet out, w ith Tee in our company, and
hiving reached the utmofl boundaries of Oparree, the
king at la(l, when we had w aitcd a coniiderabic time,
made his appearance. The firll iahitations being over,
and having taken our feats under the Ihnde of fome
trees, Otoodelirtd the captain to parou (or fpeak), Capt.
Cook began with blaming the king forgiving way to
groundlcfs alarms, he having always profeli'ed him-
felf his friend, and was difplcafed only with thofe of
Tiarabou, who were the thieves. The captain was then
afked, how he came to tire at the canoes? By way of
excufe, he told them they belonged to Maritata, one of
whofe people had (lolen the mufquet, and added the
captain, " If I had them in my power, I would deftroy
them, or any other belonging to the di(lri(it of Tiara>
bou." Wc knew this declaration A|'ould pleafc them,
from the natural averlion tlu' one kingdom has to the
other ; and it was enforced by prclents, which wc
believe were the flrongcll arguments in favour of a re-
conciliation : for after theic weighty reafons, things
were foon reflored to their former Hate, by Otoo's pro-
mifing, on the word of a king, that wc (hould be (iij>-
flied next day with provilions and fruit as ufual.
'eace and amity being now once more e(labli(hed, wc
accompanied him to his proper relidence at Oparree,
where he obliged us with a view of fome of his dock-
yards, (for fo they may well be called) where we faw
feveral laige canoes, fome building, and others lately
built, two of which were the largell we had any where
fcen. Having fully gratified our curiofity, we repaired
on board with Tee in our company, who, alter he had
dined with us, went to acquamt Happi, the king's fa-
ther, that all differences were brought to a happy con-
cluiion. But we had reafon to think this old chief was
not fatisfied withthe terms of the acconmiodation ; fur
all the women, and thefe not a few, were fent for out
of the fliip, and the next morning, no fupplics whatever
were brought, and wc were obliged (or the prefent,
to be contented with fome fruit (ent us by our, friends
from Oparree. But in the afternoon, Otoo himfelf
came to the tents with a large fupply ; and prefcntly
after more fruit was brought us than wc knew what to
do with : for the natives, we believe, thought themfelvet
i ijured equally with ourfelvcs ; and wc Knew they had
every
H4^
cook's second voyage — for making Difcoveries in the South Seas & Round the World. 1 53
bcin^ over,
Ic ol fomc
rak). Cape,
ng way to
slied hiim-
th thofc of
was then
By way of
;ata, one of
added the
jid deftroy
of Tiara-
cafc them,
has to the
which wc
of a re-
ins, tilings
.)too'.s pro-
be fiii>-
as ufual.
}li(hcd, wc
Oparree,
his dock-
re wc faw
hers lately
any where
e repaired
tcr he had
king's fa-
lappy con-
chief was
lation s for
:nt for out
:s whatever
prefent,
:)ur. friends
00 himfcif
prcfcntly
:w what to
thcinrdvcj
W they had
every
every thing ready for our market, when they were per-
mitted to bring them. Otoo defiring to lee fome of
the ercat guns fired, his wifti was complied with, but
the fight, which was entirely new. gave him as much
pain as pleafure ; but in the evening, whtn we enter-
tained him with a (hew of fire-works, he cxprclfed much
areatcr fatisfadlion. Wc have before had occafion to
obfcrvc, that thefe people were continually watching
opportunities to rob us ; and feeing the oftcndcrs were
continually fcreencd, we cannot but think, that the
chiefs either encouraged, or had not power to prevent
thieviJh pradtices. We thought it more extraordinary
that they (hould fo often attempt what they knew
might coft them their lives ; and they well knew alfo
they fhould be obliged to make rcftitution, if the ar-
ticle ftolen was of any great value. They were fully
fenfibleof thefe confcquences, and therefore, the mo-
ment a theft was committed, every one took the alarm,
and went ofl^ with his moveables as fall as polTible ;
but if the article was a trifle, or fuch as weufually gave
them, no commotion happened, becaufe, in general,
little or no notice was taken of it. Whether we obligc^l
them to make reftitution or not, the chief frequently
fecreted himfelf, and he muft be reconciled before the
people were permitted to bring in any refrefliments:
and we arc perfuaded it was by his orders the fupplics
were dctaintd from us. Thefe they imagined we could
not do without, not confidering, that their war ca-
noes, dwellings, and even fruit, were entirely in our
power. Their propenfity to thieving muft be almoft
irrefiftible, otherwifc our uniform condud towards
them would have had its due weight: for, except de-
taining their canoes for a time, we never touched the
fmalleft article of their property. When two extremes
were under our confideration, wc always chofc the moft
equitable and mild ; and frequently fettled difputcs, or
effeded a reconciliation, by trifling prefents, notwich-
(landing wc were the party aggrieved. A prefent to a
chief always fuccceded to our wi(h, and put things on
a better footing than they hai4 been before. In all 54
Capt. COOK 8 VOYAGES COMP L E T E.
I!
few. Otoo, at our rcqucd, ordered fomc of their
troops to CO through their cxercifc on Ihorc. Two
Jtrties firlV began a battle with clubs t thev then
rocecdcd to fingle combat, and exhibited the va-
rious methods of fishting with furpriling agi-
lity ; parrying oif the blows and pulhcs with great
alcrtnefs and dexteritv. I'heir arms arc clubs and
fpears. In ufing the rlub, all blows aimed at the legs,
^ere evaded by leaping over it, and thofc dcfigned tor
the head, b^ coucning a little, and leaping on one
fide. The ipear, which is ufcd at times as a dart, was
parried, by hxing the point of a fpcar in the ground
right before them, holding it in an inclined pofitiun,
more or Icfs elevated, according as they faw to what part
of the body their antagonid intended to make a pulh,
or to throM his dart at ; and by moving the hand a lit-
Uc to the right or left, cither the one or the other was
turned off w ith great eafe. Thefe combatants had no
fupcrfluous drefs upon them. An unnccelFary piece of
cloth or two which they had on when they began the
combat, were prefently torn off by fomc of the fpeda-
tors, and given to our gentlemen. This review being
over, the fleet departed without any order, as fall as
they could be got a-float ; and Otoo conducted us to
one of his dock-yards, where the two large pahics, or
canoes, were building, each of which was an hundred
and eight feet long. They were dcligncd to form one
joint double canoe, and were almod ready for launch-
ing. The king begged of the captain a grappling
and rope, to which he added an En<<;li(l] jack and pen-
dant, and defircd the Pahic murht be called the Bri-
tannia. This he readily agreed to, und (lie was im-
mediately fo named. When we came to the boat, \\c
found in it a hog, and a turtle of aliout ihty pounds
weight: this had been put in privately by Dtoo's order,
that the chiefs about him might not be otiiiided by
their being deprived of an eiu.rt.iinment. Ihc king
^TOuld likewife have prcfcnted to us a large iliark tliey
had prifoncr in a creek (fome of his lins oeing cut otV
to prevent his efcaping) but the cx..cll(.nt pork, and
fitli, with which we were fupplied at this ide, had
fpoiled our palates for fuch rank food. We were ac-
companied on board by the king, an J Tee, his prime
miniller, who after dinner took an affedionate fare-
well. Otoo had importuned us the whole day, and
moft earncftly requefted of us, that we would return to
Otaheite. When about to depart, he delired of the
captain to pcimit a youth, whom he took by the hand,
to go in the Ihip to Amfterdam, in order to collei't for
him red feathers. The youth was very delirous Oi go-
ing, but as he could not return, the capuin, with the
view of fatisfying Otoo, promifed him, that if any
fliip (hould be fcnt hither from Britain, the important
article of red feathers Hiould not be forgotten. The
captain, we believe, was difpofed to have obliged th>.
king ; but it is to be remembered, we had refolved to
carry no one from the ifles (except Ocdidec, if he chofe
to go) and the captain had juft refufed Mr. Forfter the
liberty of taking a boy with him, for reafons already
mentioned. But if curiofity excited a defire in the
youth of Otaheite to go with us, the treatment wc had
met with at this place had induced one of our gunner's
mates to remain at it. To this end he had formed a
plan, which he knew was not to be executed with fuc-
cefs while we lay in the bay ; and no fooner were wc
out, the fails fct, and the boats out, than he took the
opportunity, being a good fwimmer, to flip overboard,
lie wi's difcovered before he had got clear of the fliip,
and a boat being Iioifled out, prefently returned with
the runaway. About midway between -us and the fhore,
a, canoe was obferved coming after us, intended without
doubt to take him up; for when the people in her faw
our boat, they flood off at a greater diflance. This
we found >tas a preconcerted plan bctw ecn the man and
fome of the natives, with whicti Otoo was acquainted,
and had encouraged. The gunner's mate was an Irifh-
man by birth, and we had picked him up at Batavia,
in our firft voyage. He had neither friends, nor con-
nexions, to confine him to any particular part of the
world, where then could he be fo happy as a: one of
thefe ifles } Here he might enjoy in eafe and plenty,
not only the neceffaries, but the luxuries of life, which
leads us, before we leave this celebrated ifland of Ota.
heite, to give fonK account of its prefcnt flatc, efpe-
cially as it differs much from what it was even eight
months ago ; and in order to give our fubfcribers, and
numerous readers a more diflant idea of its fituation,
general figure, extent, and the charader of its inha-
itants, wc mull beg of them to indulge us with the
liberty of a recapitulation of feveral things, which
have already appeared in detached parts of this work ;
that fo the whole may be brought into one view, and its
diftind heads ranged in their proper order. Wc have
already mentioned the improvements we found in the
plains of Oparree and Matavai. The fame was ob-
ferved in every other part that came und.er our obfer-
vation. It feemed to us almoll incredible, that fo
many large canoes and houfes could be built in fo
Ihort a (pace as eight months ; but the iron tools which
they had got from the Englifh, and other nations, who
have lately touched at the ifland, no doubt, had acce-
lerated the work, and of hands they cannot be in want.
The great increafc in the numb<.-r of their hogs no lefs
excited our admiration ; though, probably, they were
not fo fcarce when we were here before, as we then ima-
gined ; as, not chuflng to part with any, they might
have con\ eyed them out of light.
The fituation of this ifle is perhaps the bed in the
world, being expofed to none of thofe viciffitudes of
heat and cold, which are obferved to have fo fenlible
an efl'ed on the health and fpirits of thofc who live
in remoter regions. Its exad polition is from latitude
1 7 dcg. 28 mm. to that of 1 7 deg. 53 min. S. and from
longitude 1 49 deg. 10 min. to 149 dcg. 40 min. W. Ic
lies nearly N. W. and S. £. and is divided into two
diflinC^ principalities by an iflhmus, or neck of land«
and three miles over. The north-wcfterly divifion is,
however, much larger, and more fertile, but by no
mean • fb w cU cultivated as the fouth-eaflerly divilion ;
which Ihcws, that even the defeds of nature, if we
may be allowed to call them fo, have their ufe, in
prompting men to induflry and art, to fupply their
wants. The figure of the largcfl peninfula, is nearl/
circular, being from N. to S. about twenty miles, and
from E. to wert. about the fame. The whole is fur-
rounded with a reef of rocks. The leffer peninfula is
rather of an oval form, and from the neck of land
on the N. W. fide, to the little ifle of Otooareitte on
the S. E. is about twelve miles ; but from the mouth
of the river Omatea on tlie fouth, to that of Owahe on
the north, not more than eight. The circumference
of the largeft peninfula is about fixty miles, of the
fmalleft alwut twenty-four ; but in failing round both,
the line will be extended to ninety nearly. .
For a particular account of tht produce of the ifland,
we are indebted no doubt to the indefatigable induflry
of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ; in whofc catalogue
are the following particulars, namely, bread-fruit, co-
coa-nuts, bananas of thirteen forts ; plantains, a fruit
not unlike an apple, which when ripe is very pleafant ;
fwcet potatoes, yams, cocoas, a kind of arum ; a fruit
called by the natives jambu, very delicious s fugar-
canc; a root of the faloop kind, called pea; a plant
called etbees a fruit named ahee, not unlike a kidney
bean, and which, when roaftcd, taftes like chefnuts;
a tree called wharra, producing a fruit not unlike i^
pine apple ; a fhrub called nonoj the morinda, which
alio produces fruit j a fpecies ei i-'nj and a pl?.t
called ava, of which the too,.- •pIv are chewed: all
thefe, which ferve the natives for food, the earth pro-
duces fponui^eoufly t bcfides which there are a great
variety of flinibs and plants, which ferve for various
purpofes of building houfes, veffels, tools of different
kinds, manufadurcs, dyes, &c. to enumerate which
would be tedious. Of four foMited animals the ifland
produces but few, none having been fecnby the Euro-
peans on their firft landing, but hogs, d^s, and rats^
of which laft the inhabiunts arc very fond. Their
wild fowl ari; ducks only, and the birds that haunt the
wood, except ftnaU bijds, a^e chiefly pigedns. and pa-
lo^uetsj
COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE— for making i)^«/«r/w in the Sou/A Seas & Round the f^or/J. 1 5 5
and rats.
roquets ; but with fi(h the coaft abounds, of whitn the
varieties arc numberlefs. Poultry is not in plenty, nor
is it fo well flavoured as what we have m Europe. Here
it may be proper to obfcrve, that the two goats, which
Capt. Furncaux gave to Otoo, when we were laft here,
feemed to prorailc fair for anfwcring the end for which
they were put on (hore. The ewe Toon after had two
female kicb, which were at this time ready to propa-
fite their fpccies j and the old ewe was again with kid.
he natives feemed to be very fond of them, and they
to like their fituation ; for they were in exceeding good
condition. We may therefore reafonably hope from
this circumftance, that, in a few years, they msw be
fpread over all the ifles in this ocean. Ihe Iheep
which we left, died in a fliort time after; but we un-
dcrftood one was yet alive. We alfo fumilhed them
with a (lock of cats, not lefs than twenty, befidcswhat
we left at Ulictca and Huahcine.
The natives, particularly the chiefs, are in fizc, ra-
ther above the largeft Europeans. Their food, which is
of the finipleft kind, is not fach as to promote glut-
tony, nor tncir drink, which is chiefly water, calcu-
lated to provoke intemperance. Their daily intercourfe
with the ocean acculloms them from their youth to
exercife ; and the bufinefs ef fifliing, which in nor-
thern countries is the mod laborious of all employ,
rnents, is by thcni pradifcd as their amufenicnt. They
who have rcprcfcntcd them as indolent, becaufc nature
fupplies liberally all their wants, have midaken their
charadcr. Even their chiefs are artifts, and their
houfcs, public edifices, canoes, and manufaifturcs,
their utenlils, inftruments of war, working tools, their
boats, and filhing tackle, are all jproofs inconteftiblc of
their induftry. Employments or this kind tend to ba-
ni(h doth ; and no pcrlon was ever known to languifli
with an incurable difcafe among them, though it docs
not appear, that the medical art has yet made any con-
lideral progrefs. Much has been faid, and in general
w ith ftridt truth, of the gracefulncfs of their perfons j
yet if we were to judge of the whole by Autorou, and
Omia, who were brought to England, they might be
thought to have liitle claim to that perfedion 1 ^et their
chiefs have undoubtedly a comparative dignity; but
that comparifon is to be confined at home between
prince and peafant, and not extended to European
countries, where grace and dignity arc leading cha-
radcrs. Their women differ from each other in pcr-
fonal charms as in all other countries ; but in flaturc,
thofe of fuperior rank take efpecial care to prefcrvc the
family diftindion. It is not uncommon tor ladies of
the firft rank to flngle out a handfome well-propor-
tioned youth, to prevent degeneracy, when the ftature
of the family is in danger of being reduced ; but they
are otherwife fcrupulous in nothing fo much as in mix-
ing with the canaille, and there is fcarcely an inflance
of their cohabiting indifcriminately with the lower
clafa of people. '1 nere is, perhaps, no nation where
the pride of anceftry is carried to a greater height, and
yet they have no means of recording their pedigree,
but bv oral tradition, nor any rule for continuing the
line, but what nature has imprefTed upon the mother.
Having no fchooU, nothing is to be acquired by edu-
cation, example is their prmcipal inflrudlor and guide :
the patterri fet by the father is followed by the fon, and
what the mother docs, that the daughter learns ; but
this is not to be undcrdood to perpetuate hufbandry and
arts, as in China, in particular families ; for in Ota-
heitc hufbandry and arts arc not impofcd as taiks, but
^rc rather amufements to pafs away time. None ate
(Compelled to work, yet all are employed ; their ^vetal
ftations chance fecms to have allotted ; and here is no
murmuring againll providence for not being more
bountiful. One precaution obferved among the great
in order to give vigour to their chiefs muft not be
pmitted, and that is, they never fuffer an intercourfe
between the fexes till both parties arrive at full matu-
rity. The very reverfc of this is pradticed by the mul-
titude, who in general are as much below the common
ttandard as their chiefs exceed it. They are almoft all
tatfOMcd, women as well as men. In this there fecms
to be Ibmething myflical 1 the prieft performs the ope-
ration, and the very children are encouraged by ex-
ample to endure the pain, than which nothing can be
more acute. To have a thoufand pundurcs all at
once, with the blood flatting at every pundure, is
more, one would think, than a child could bear, yet
they fuffer it with a fortitude of which in Europe an
inflance cannot be found. Their hair is ahiiofl uni-
verfally black. The men wear it long, waving in
ringlets dowa their flioulders ; but the womeq cut it
fhort round their cars : both fexes fuflfcr none to grow
under their arms ; and are very delicate in keeping
every part about them fwcet and clean. To this end
they frequently bathe, feldom fuffcring a day to pafi
without jgoing into the water more than once. Indeed
they anomt their heads with an oil expreffed from the
cocoa-nut, which fomctimes proves rancid, and emits
a difagreeable fmell ; otherwife in their perfons they arc
without a taint. Mr. Banks faid, " that If our failors
quarrelled with thefe people, they would not agree with
angcla," which fufficicntly denotes thecoodncls of their
dilpofition. We have mentioned that Waheatoua is re-
lated to Otoo. The fame may be faid of the chiefs. of
Eimeo, Tapamannoo, Huahcine, Ulictea, Otaha, Bo-
labola, for thefe are all related to the royal fainily cf
Otaheite. It is a maxim with the Earccs, and others
of fuperior rank, as we have juft obferved, never to in-
termarry with the Toutous, or others of inferior rank ;
and probably this cullom might give rife to the efla-
blilhmcnt of the elafs calt^rd Earceoies : it is certain
thefe focietics prevent greatly the increafe of the fupe-
rior clafFes of people, of which they are compofcd, and
do not interfere with the lower or Toutous ; for we ne-
ver heard of one of thefe being an Earrcoy ; nor that a
Toutou could rife in life above the rank in which he
was placed by his birth.
Tnecuftomsof thefe people obferved in their cjiting,
as our readers muft have perceived from what has al-
ready been faid on this fubjed, are very fingular, and
they fecm to entertain fome fuperftitious notions, not
eafily difcoverable by ftrangers. The women are not
permitted to eat with the men ; not, as it fhould fccm,
to mark their inferiority, but in conformity to a cullom
which habit has eftablilhcd into a la)y ; nor is it ufual
for any of them to eat in company, except upon cer-
tain days of fcftivity, when great numbers of them af^
femble together. A mefTenger from one of our Eng-
lifh captains found Oberea, the then fuppofed queen of
the illand, entertaining a company, which he fuppofed
could not be lefs than a thoufand. The mefTes were all
brought to her by the fervants, who had prepared
them ; the meat being put into the fliclls of cocoa->
nuts, and the fliells into wooden trays ; and fhe diftri-
buted them with her own hands to the guefts, w ho were
featcd in rows. This done (he fat down herfelf upon a
feat fomew hat elevated above the reft, and two women
placing themfelves, one on each fide, fed her like a
child. When flie faw the mefTenger, fhe ordered a
mefs for him. They have two ways of drefling their
animal food, namely, broiling and baking. The firfl
is performed over hot flones, without any other con-
trivance than that of placing the meat upon the clean
flones, and when done enough on one fide, they turn
it, and broil the other. Their manner of baking is
very fingular and curious. They firfl dig a hole in the
ground, in depth and dimenfions proportioned to the
thing they have to drefs ; they then place a layer of
wood at bottom, and over that a layer of ftones ; and
fo alternately a laver of wood and a layer of ftones, till
the hole is full : the fire is then kindled, and the ftones
made hot; this done they uke out the fire, and
placing the flones that are leaft heated one belide the
other at the bottom of the hole, they cover them w ith
frefh leaves ; and on thefe they put the meat intended to
be baked; then after laying another layer of green
leaves, they fill up the hole with the remaining hdi
(loncs, and elofc the whole with the mould that was firfl;
dugout of the pit. In this fituation the meat is fuf-
ftttd to remain for three or four hours ; and w hen
; taken out is then fo favoury, as not to be exceeded by
the
156
Capl. COOK'8 VOYAGES COMPLETE.
:1
tl
1 iiii«i y^ i
I
the beft European cookery. Alinoft all the Ht(h and
fifti eaten by the chiefs in the ifland is dreUld in one
or the other of the above two ways : the latter is niofl
in ufe among the gentry i and the former among the
Commonalty, whofometimes indeed eat their fifli with-
out drefling. Tnh'-! they have none, and thofc of the
higheft oi'-.-ity dine on the ground under the ftiadc of a
fpreadmg tree; frelh green leaves fcrve them fiir a
cloth, and a balket which is fct down by them holds
their provifion ; thcfc, and two C(Koa-nuts, one filled
with fait water, the other with frefli, complete the
whole preparation for a meal. When this is done, they
wafli their hands and mouths, and then, if nothing
calls them abroad, they ufually lay thcmfclvcs doun to
flccp. It was long before any of thcni could be pcr-
fuaded to eat with Europeans, and they certainly, like
the Jews, have fome fupcrftitious ceremonies to be ob-
fcrvcd in the preparation of the food they cat, which,
if omitted, renders it unclean, or they would not have
continued fcrupulous fo long. Even the food of their
women is differently prepared from that of the men j
And if touched by unhallowed hands, is accounted un-
fit for ufe. Some of the gentlemen, when invited to
their houfes, eat out of the fame balket, and drank out
of the fame cup with their hofts j but it was obfervcd,
that the elderly women were always offended with this
liberty ; and if they happened to touch the viduals of
any of the anticnt matrons, or even the balket that held
it, they never failed to exprefs their diflikc, and to
throw It away ; nor could the women of falhion ever be
pcrfuadcd to eat with the gentlemen, when dining in
company : but what fecms moft ft range, and hardly to
be accounted for, they would go, five or fix in com-
pany, into the fervants apartments, and cat heartily of
whatever they could find ; nor did they fcem in the
leaft difconcerted, if they were difcovcred ; yet it was
not eafy to perfuade any of them when alone, in pri-
vate with a gentleman, to eat with him, nor would
they ever do it but under the moft folcmn promifcs of
fccrecy.
Their amufements arc various, fuch as mufic, dan-
cing, wreftling, fhooting with the bow, darting their
lances, fwimming, -^wing, and flinging of (tones.
Their mufic it mu. c confcffcd is very imperfect,
confifting only of a Hutc and drum, yet with thefe,
companies go about che country, and frequent t^eir
feftivals, being in equal eftimation with them as mau-
rice dancers were formerly with us, and the diverlion
they make is notunfimilar. In Ihooting the long bow,
or in throwing the lance, they by no means excel ; nci-
thcrare they very dexterous at wrcftlingj but at throw-
ing ftones, and fwimming, they are perhaps equal to
any people upon earth. Among other divcrfions, they
have their heivas, nearly corrcfponding with our Eng-
lifti wakes. The young people meet together to dance
and to make merry ; and at thefe times their minftrels
and players conftantly attend, as formerly perfons of
the fame charadler were wont to do all over England,
and in fome counties the veftiges of that antient cuC-
lom remain to this day. At thefe heivas. however,
their female performers, in their dances, have no re-
gard to decency ; and though the fame end was no
oubt in view in the inftitution of the wake and heiva,
yet what in England was concerted with the utmoft fe-
crecy, is publickly avowed and pr;K tifed in Otaheite.
But though the inflrumcntal mulic of the Otaheiteans
is much confined, their vocal mufic is by no means con-
temptible; yet in the fwcetncfs of the voice confifts all
the melody, for they have no rules to regulate the
tones. Their fongs are accompanied with words of
their own compofing, which they can vary into long
and fliort verfes, fprightly or iblcmn, as occafion pre-
fcnts ; and as their language is exceeding harmonious
and mulical, a ft^rangcr is no lefs delighted with the
arranteft nonfenfe, than he would be with the moft
fublime compofition. The heivas are indifcriminately
frequented by all ranks of people ; but there is dill a
more exceptionable meeting held by thofe of high rank,
to which fuch only are admitted who are properly ini-
tiated. Thefe people form a dillin(ft fociety. in which
.4
every woman is common to every man ; and at their
meetings, which are dirtinguiflicd by the name of Ar-
reoy, the fpoits they pradtife arc beyond imagination
wanton. We may trace fomewhat like this in the hif-
tory of the anticnt inhabitants of our own ifland. Per-
haps it woulil be no exaggeration to add, that in the
city of London, there arc as many men as the whole
ifland of Otaheite contains, who devote themfelves en-
tirely to the plcafures of fenfuality, and who attach
themfelves to no one woman, but enjoy indilcrimi-
natcly all they may ; and that there are an equal num.
ber of women to be met with, who are at all times
ready to gratify their delires.
Drefs, among the ladies of Otaheite, fecms to be as
much ftudicd, as in more civilized nations. However,
neither the feet or legs, even of the quality, have any
covering, or any defence from the ground, or the
fcorthing heat of the fun, which at ibme fcafons is
very iiuenfc : but they are very nice in ornamenting
their heads, and in ftiading their faces. That part of
their hcad-drefs, in which they pride thcmfclvcs moff,
is threads of human hair, fo dcficatcly plaited, that it
is not unufual for them to have garlands of this manu-
fadure wound round their heads ; the plaits w hereof be-
ing interwove with flowers have a very pretty effe
times they hold one of thefe bunches, and at others,
only two or three feathers between the fore- finger and
thumb.
COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE— for making Difi«vtriu in the South Seat & Round the World. \ 57
ine ungracc-
thumb. and fay a prayer, not one word of which wc
could underftand. Whoever makes a voyage Co thia
ifiand, will do well to provide himfelf with red lea-
thers, the fineft and fmallcft that arc to be got. l^Iu
mud alfo have a good ftock of axes and hatchcti.
fpike-nails, files, knives, looking-glaflca, beads, ami
cfpecially Ihects and fliirts, which our gentlemen found
the ladies very defirous of having.
The arts in the ifland of Otahcite may be reduced to
five, namely, architcilturc, carving, (hip-builJing, na>
vigation, and painting. Of their architcdurc there is
one remarkable fpccimcn exiting in the greater ifland,
which is the Moral, or fepulchral monument of Obcrca.
It is a prodigious pile of (lone 267 feet long, and 87
wide at the bafc, raifed by flights of (Icps to the height
of 44 feet. ThcTe fleps are each four feet high, nar-
rowing gradually, till they end in a fmall entablature,
on which near the middle Hands the figure of a binl
carved in wood ; and at fome diftance the broken frag-
ments of a fi(h cut in done. This pile makes a con-
fiderable part of one fide of a fquare court, whofc area
is 360 feet by 354, inclofed within a ftone wall, and
paved with the Jame materials through its whole extent.
As this (quare isfurrounded with trees, and has many
§ rowing within it of a particular kind, it forms at a
iftance the mod delightful grove that imagination
can paint. At what time it was eredcd could not be
learnt, for they have no records of paft tranfadions ;
but being conltrudcd of coral nones, many of large
dimenfions, neatly fquared and polifhed, and fo nicely
joined as hardly to difcovcr a feam, it mud fill the
mind of a nice obferver with admiration and rapture,
while he examines all its parts. To think how fuch a
mafs of materials could be brought together in an
idand wherein no quarries are to be found ; how thefc
materials could be cut with fuch exadhiefs, as to form a
pile by rain, without cement, and that with tools little
harder than the fubdance to which they were applied ;
and, ladly, how thcfe enormous blocks of done could
afterwards be raifed to the height of 44 feet, to clofc
and cover in the building, mud furely excite the won-
der of every ordinary beholder; but to mark the fym-
metry of the whole, fo judly proportioned in every
part, as to difplay the mod confummatc judgment,
mud afford a fead to an enlightened mind, of which an
ordinary feaman can have no relidi. This noble druo-
ture, and drong proof of genius, will remain the ad-
miration of all who may have t^e pleafurc of feeing it,
perhaps, as long as the ifland itfcif fliall endure ; for
being folid, and without a cavity, no time, that will
not equally afled the ifland, can dedroy It. Of their
carving in dortt there are but very few ipecimens to be
produced, and indeed, when their tools they have to
work with are confidcred, it is more to be admired,
that there are any, than tliat there are fo few ; but wc
have reafon to hope, that now they are made acquainted
with the ufe of iron, and have conliderablc quantities
of that rnetal among them, that their improvements
will fpeedi'y be proportioned to their advantages, and
the acutenefs of their underdanding. But of their
carving in wood, we faw not a tool, or ordinary utenfil,
that did not difcover evident proofs of their expcrtnefs
in this art. Their veflels for navigation arc all adorned
With it ; and in fome of their penormances an excel-
lence is difcemable, which, with fuch tools as they
have to work with, no Eutopcan carver could exceed.
With regard to their fliip-building, they arc upon a
footing with their neighbours, if not at piefcnt fupe-
rior to them. Their ordinary veflels arc well adapted
to the feas they have to navigate, and we never heard
of a iingle indance of one of them being cad away.
Mod ofthem^re elevated at the head and dern, for
the purpofc of defending the rowers from the furf,
which on thefc iflands breaks upon the fhorc with un-
common violence, Thofc of Otahcite are in form
not unlike the punt boats, with flat bottoms, fuch as
are ufed by our fifliermen on the river Thames, or ra-
ther like thofc ufed for the fame purpofc on the Severn :
they arc no where wider than three feet, though fome
Of them arc more than 60 feet long, nor arc they an
inch deeper in the body, though at the head and dern.
they rife with a curvature more than 1 1 tect. As if
would be impofllble to navigate thefc vcfTcts, fo long„
and fo narrow, without fume contrivance to keep them
upright, they place two of them as near as can be of
the lame dimenfions, along-fidc of each other, at three,
four, or five feet didance, and with drong fparsjoin
them together ; then raifing a mad in each, they lioid
a fquare fail, the yards of which are fadencd above and
below to the corrcfponding mads, and thus«quipt, with,
a cabin ercdcd between them to dow their provilions,
they will keep the fqa for fcvcral days. In rigging their,
double canocs,'thcy have a rule for proportioning the
height of the mads to the length of the keel, and of
fitting the fail to the height of the madj they like wife
have a contrivance of failing in fingle canoes by means
of out*riEgers, which project on the lee-fide of the
veflcl, ana prevents their ovcr-fctiing : to this out-
rigger one corner of the fail is made fad, which fail
being wide at the bottom, and rounding to a point
at the top, very much rcfcmblcs what the bontmon
call a (houlder of mutton fail, fretiuently ftcn on the
river Thames. To thofc who have been told, that the
mafon can joint with fo much nicety as to be imper-
vious to water, it will not fccm drangc that their car-
penters can do the fame w ith refpcct to timber ; yet it
certainly mud require much art, and incredible l:ibour,
fird to fell the tree, then to cleave it out into planks,
then to hollow it out into the intended (hape ■, next to
fmooth and polifli it, after that to joint it, and lad of
all to put it together, and faw it ; for they w ere w holly
ignorant oi the art of bolting it with wooden bolts, or
jointing it together by means of mortices, till the Eu-
ropeans vifited them. It is no wonder, therefore, that
they dreaded nothing fo much as the dedrucUon of
their boats, when threatened by the Enj!;lini for any of-
fence, nor that they fhould be more careful in covciing
their boat-houfcs from the fun and rain, than they arc
infecuring their dwellings from the funic injury. As
the whole art of navigation depends ujwn their minutely
obferving the motions of the heavenly bodies, it is afio-
nidiing with what exadlnefs their navigators can de-
fcribe the motions, and changes of thole luminaries.
There was not a dar in the hemifpherc, fixed, or er-
ratic, but Tupia could give a name to. tell when, and
where, it would appear, and difappear ; and, what
was dill more wonderful, he could tell, from tlie afpcA
of the heavens, the changes of the wind, and the al-
terations of the weather, feveral days before they hap-
pened. By this intelligence he had been enabled to
vilit mod of the iflands for many degrees round that of
which he was a native. By the fun they deer in the
day, and by the dars in the night; and by their fliill
in prefaging the weather, they can, w ithout danger,
lengthen or fliorten their voyage as appearances are for
or againd them. Having no medium wherewith to
trade, their voyages fcem wholly calculated for difco-
very, or to increafe their acquaintance with other na-
tions. Riches they do not fcem folicitous to acquire.
They certainly interchange their commodities among
themfelves, as well as with drangers j the fid\erman
barters his fidi for the planter's bread-fruit, and fo of
the red; yet every man feems to be a fiflierman, and
every man a planter: this diews, that wc are dill
drangers to their civil oeconomy. It had been good
policy to have fufl^ered two er three young perfons, who
were defirous of daying behind, to have fettled among
thctn, cfpecially, as there was reafon to believe, that
the ifland would again be vifited, if for no other rea-
fon than to redore to them the native who had volun-
tarily undertaken a voyage to Europe ; but againd this
Capt..Cook fccms to have been carefully guarded. With
rcfpedl to the art of painting among thefc people, to us
it appeared to be in a rude date, being chiefly confined
to the figures reprcfented on their bodies, and the or-
naments on their canoes. The figures on their bodies
arc gcncrallv thofc of birds and fidies, fomctimes after
nature, and fomctimes the cfTufions of fancy; but
whatever is reprcfented, the outline is traced with fur-
prizing exadnels. This art is folely confined to the
3 R pried-
158
Capt. COOK'i VOYAGES COMPLETE.
prtefthood, and i* performed like baptifm ai a rite,
without which, after a certain age, none an accounted
worthy of tociety. From twelve to fourteen is the pe-
riod allotted for the performance of this rit(, fbr bc-
fort that age children are thought unable to etulnre the
firurt. The other fort of painting in ufe among thefc
iflandera may be rather called daubing, confining only
in colouring the rude carvings in their ptcafurc ooau,
8k. fometimcs with one colour, ibmctimes with ano-
ther, but mod commonly with red. We fhall clofe
this head with a few remarks on their marine force, or
war canoes, confidercd as their grand fleet. Capt.
Cook when lad at Otaheite conceived rather an unfa-
vourable opinion of Ofoo's capacity and talents ; but
the rapid improvements fincc made in the ifland con-
vincca us, that he mud be a man of good parts { and
it i» certain that he has fome judicious, fenfible men
about him, who have a great (hare in the gcivernment ;
but we cannot fay how tar his power extends as king,
nor how far he ran command theaflldancc of the other
chiefs, or is controulablc by them : this however is cer-
tain, that all have contributed towards bringing the iflc
to its prefent flourifhing date : yet we found it not with-
out divifions among tneir great men. The king told
us, that Towha, the admiral, and Foatatou, were not
his friends. Thefc being two leading chiefs, Otoo
mud have been jealous of them on account of their
creat pow er ; yet on every occafion he feemcd to court
tneir intered. We are inclined to think they raifed by
far the greated number •( vcflels and men, to go againd
Eimeo, and were to be the two conimamlcrs m the ex-
pedition, which, according to common report, was to
uke place five days after our departure. Waheatoua,
king of Tiarabou, was to join this fleet to that of Otoo,
and that young prince was to be one of the comman-
ders. One would think fo fmall an illand as Eimeo,
would have endeavoured to ftttic matters by negotia-
tion rather than rcfid the united force of thole two
powerful nations ; yet nothing was heard or talked of
out fighting. Towha faid more than once, that he
ihould die in the adlion. Oedidec thought the battle
would be fought at fea ; but we thought it mod proba-
ble, that the people of Eimeo would remain at home
on the defeniive, as we were informed they did about
five or dx years ago, when attacked by the people of
Tiarabou, whom they repulfed. We were told, that
fivegcncral officers were to command in this expedition,
of which number Otoo was one; and, if they named
them in order according to the pods they held, Otoo
was only the third in command ; which (eems probable
enough ; for he being but a young man he could not
have fudicient experience to be commander in chief,
where the greated (kill and judgment fecmed to be nc-
ccfTary. Capt. Cook was difpofed to have daid five
or fix days longer, had he been furc the expedition
would have taken place in that time, but it feemcd they
wanted us to be gone*fird. It was fometimcs reported,
that it would not be undertaken before ten moons ; as if
it was neccfTary to have that time to put every thing in
order. For feveral days before we failed, Otoo and
the other chiefs had ceafedto folicit our alliance and af-
fidance, which they were continually doing at fird ; and
after Capt. Cook had alTured Otoo, that if they got
their fleet ready in time he would fail with them down
to Eimeo, we heard no more of it. Probably they
thought it more political to be without us, knowing it
was in our power to bedow. the vidtory on whom we
pleafed. Be this as it may, they undoubtedly wanted
us to be gone before they undertook any thing ; and
thus we were deprived, much againd our inclination,
of feeing the whole fleet aflemblcd on this occafion,
and, perhaps of being fpedators of a well conduded
engagement at fea. What number of vefTels were ap-
pomted for this grand expedition we could not learn.
We heard of no more than two hundred and ten, bc-
fides a number of fmall canoes for tranfports, and the
allied fleet of Tiarabou, the ftrength of which we could
not gain the lead intelligence : nor could we learn the
number of men neceflary to man this fleet. Whenever
4k quedion was gSke^ the anfwcr wu Warou, warou^
3
warou te Tata, that it many, many, men. Allowing
forty to each war canoe, and four to each of the others,
which ii ■ moderate computation, and the number
will amount to nine thoufand i an adonidiing number,
if we confider they were to be raifed in only four dif-
tridls, and one of them, namely, Matavai, did not
equip a fourth part of the fleet. That of Tiarabou it
not included in this account j and many other didrida
might be arming which we knew nothing of i yet we
think the whole ifland of Otaheite did not arm on thia
occafion, fbr we faw not any preparations making at
Oparree. We believe that the chief, or chiefs, of each
didridl, fuperintended the equipping of the fleet be-
longing to that didrid t after which they mud pafs in
review before the king, who by this means knows the
date of the whole intended to go on fervirc. The num-
ber of war canoe* belonging to Attahourou and Ahopata
is an hundred and ftxty { to Tettaha forty s to Mata-
vai ten; now if we fuppofe every didrict in the illand,
of which there are forty-three, to raife and equip the
fame number of war canoes as Tettaha, according to
this edimate, the whole ifland can raife and equip one
thoufand feten hundred and twenty war canoes, and
fixty-eight thoufand able men, allowing forty to each
canoe ; and feeing thefe cannot amount to above one
third part of the number of both fcxes, children in'
eluded, the whole ifland cannot contain lefs than twu
hundred and four thoufand inhabitants. This at firlt
light exceeded our belief; but when, upon a review
of this calculation, wt confidered the vad fwarms of
natives which appeared wherever we went, we Were
convinced our edimate was not much, if at all too
great. There cannot, in our opinion, be a drongcr
£roof of the richncfs and fertility of Otaheite (not forty
agues, or 120 miles, in circuit) t' ; n that of its fup-
porting fuch a number of warriors and warlike inhabi-
tants, all artids, and pofTcflcd of? P.cet both their glory
and defence. Such is the prefent date of the arts in
this celebrated idand, which, had Tupia lived to have
come to England, and to have returned' again to his own
countiy, would, no doubt, have received dill mor*
rapid improvements ; for he was a man of real genius^
a pried of the fird order, and an excellent artid. Hii
boy Tayota was the darling of the Endeavour's craw,
being of a mild and docile difpofition, ready to do any
kinaoffice for the mcaned in the fhip ; never com*
plaining, but alw >; 1 pleafed. They both died much
lamented at Batavia, the occafion of which has been re*
lated in its proper place.
The manufadhires of Otaheite are of various kinds |
that of cloth is in the highed eftimarion among them.
The material of which one fort is made is neither fpun,
nor woven in a loom, but in every refp^tft is prepared
adcr the fird fimple maiuier of making paper befora
mills were applied to facilitate the ia'jour. The berk is
fird dripped from the tree and laid in the water, as wa
do flax, to foak : it is then divedcd of the rind by
fcraping, till only the fibres of the infide remain.
When properly cleanfed, it is placed upon leaves, one
layer by the fide of another, till it is of fufficient
breadth ; and in the fame manner it is extended to
what length the manufadurer chufes, or the ground
will admit; and to drcngthcn it and incrcafe it$
br^th, one layer is laid over another till it is of the
fubdance required. This done, it is left to drain, and
when jud dry enough to be raifed fmm the ground, it
is placed upon a kind of dage, made of fmooth boards,
and beat with a fquarc beater about a foot long, and two
or three inches broad. On each of the four fide? o(
this beater parallel lines are Cut lengthwife: thefe
lines differ in finenefs, in a proportion from fhuU
twine to a filken thread. They fird begin with th^
coaricd fide of the beater, and finifh with the finelT.
By the continual application of this beater, in which
two people are continually employed, who dand oppo>
fite to each other, on each fide of the dage, and rMuIat*
their drdtes like fmiths on an anvil, the cloth, itclotll
it may be called, in its rough fta^e thins apace, and M
it thina, it of couife increafes in breadth. When i^
has undergone f bU proccft, ic ii then fpreat) out w
vhtttot
lAta
J.
COOK't SECOND VOYAGE— for making Diltoveriei in the Souti St^ Ac Round I ;« h
»59
whiun, which when fufiicicndyr done, it i> delivcrt-d
10 the ladies, whore pravince ii to look it cafHully
over, and to remove all blemifhcv, 'I'hui far loin-
pleted, it ii coloured, generally red or yellow, aftef
whii h it i> rolled and laid up for ufe. By thii proi *l«
the reader will readilv comprehend in what manner the
fabric may be varied into fine or coarfe, according to
the material! of which it ii made, and the labour be-
ftowed upon it. In Otaheite the bark of three diffe-
rent treei ii made ufe of in thii manufacture; the
Chincfe paper mulberry, the bread-fruit tree, and the
wild flg-tree. Of the iirft and fccond the linctl fortt
are madci but of the la(l, the mod durable. The
lirft and fecond imbibe water like paper t but the lat-
ter will rcfift the rain. They have a method of wa(h-
Ing this cloth, after it has been worn, and when waflied
it IS again beaten i by this laft proccfs it is rendered
Tery loft and pliable. Another confiderable manufac-
ture is that of matting, made likcwifc of the rinds of
plants and Ihrubs, which are worked to a degree of
finenefs not to be equalled by any thing of the kmd
known in Europe. Of this manufa»Jhirc are made
their fails, the covering of their beds, and their cloath-
ing in rainy weather. Their cordage is another con-
fiderable article, which is made of the rind of a plant
not unlike a wild nettle. In this manufadurc they
iikewifc excel, but we do not learn that any of it was
purchafcd for the Ihip's ufe. Their lines made for fifli-
ing arc much fuperior to any thing of the kind iifcd in
Europe, being ftroiiger and infinitely nwrc durable.
Their fifliing nets have the fame advantages; but the
cords made of human hair, » hich the ladies wind round
their heads, and which, like iwttiig, is the chief
amufement of the ladiea there, is incomparably be-
yond any thing that can be conceived in twifting. Mr.
Banks is faid to have had in his poffefTion a fpccimen
of it, near two thoufand yards in length, and as fine as
our finell thread, not having one knot, or apparent
joining, neither have they any engine to afTift them in
the performance, but all is done by the hand, and with
a quickncfs that almolt exceeds belief. They have
likewife a manufadturc of balket, or wicker work, of
which every native is a proficicnr. ; and as they have a
iind of emulation in excelling in this kind of work, it
is not to be wondered at. that there fliould be as many
different forms, as there arc different makers, fomc of
them incomparably neat. But amon^ the curiofitics of
this kind, that which was moft admired by the Endea-
vour's people, when at this ifle, was the figure of a
man upwards of feven feet high, reprefentcd in bafkct
Vork, which they imagined was a reprefentation of one
of their deities. This wicker (keleton was completely
covered with feathers, white where the (kin was to ap-
pear, and black in thofe pans which it is their cuflom
to paint or flain. and upon the head, where there was
to be a reprefentation of hair. Upon the head were
ibur protuberances, three in front, and one behind,
which the natives called Tate-etee, or little men.
Other manufactures of !efs account, yet not unworthy
of notice, are their weapons of war, which feem to be
the workmanfhip of the owners, their fifliing tackle of
various forts, their working tools, and their jewe'ery ;
but in this lad it cannot be expedited, confidering their
tools, they fhould have any fcopc to difplay or exercife
their ingenuity.
We come now to fpeak of their civil ^vemmcnt, of
which we have it not in our power to give our readera
8 diflind and perfedl idea. This ifland of Ouheitc
made formerly but one kingdom ; how long it has been
divided into two we cannot pretend to fay, wc believe
not long. The kings of Tiarabou, are a branch of the
fiuQily of Opoureonu ; at prefent the two are nearly rc-
bted, and we believe the former is. in fome meaiure,
dependent on the latter. Otoo is ftiled Earec de hie
of the whole ifland ; and we were told, that Wahea-
toua, the king of Tiarabou, muft uncover before him,
{n the fame manner as the lowed order of his fubjeds
do. This homage is not only paid to Otoo, but to
Tarevatou, his brother, and his fecond fider, to the
pne'as heir, and to the other as heir apparent. We
have foaictimcs kai the Eowai (uul Whanooa cov^rod
in
be
an
his attcndan(
negiXiatR matters
..y
t VN'haiitio^ . ways tat
of any on xing cx-
thc I'outoL . , tur ns tu
ibfcrvej, they nc\cr
lirfbre the king, but whctiier by ctxirt>.-ry or by -irtuc
I thtirollice. we could not learn. Thci^r «i*n, who
i the prin<.i()a! pcrfons about the king, itui f n
court, are generally, if not always his rcUi
K} ofiry\ nicntirxned in this narrative, was on
.1. V Fxiwas, who hold the firfl riink, atttn
ii i», I c< itain nui wr tach day, lo that thty nw
call' '1 loWfi in wi»'" ig. Wc felJom linind I ve aU
.as ncccfTary, as beinj^ btfl 1)li >
:t\kec'n Capt. Cook and the chici
on thi3 fervicc h? \> . * always ci twl, and h<- 'xctutta
the feme, we have rt*lbi\ to i>. , to the i ikli«m
of both parties. The t«»»«
with the king ; nor do we ki
eluded from this privilege, .
the women, as we have alf ''
eat with the men, let their lanli lie ever lit itiuth tie
vated. Notwithflanding thcfc crtabliflitd orders, there
was very little alx>ut Otoo's pcrfon or court, m hereby a
flrangcr could dillinguilh the king from the fubjcdt.
We rarely faw him drcfl'cd in any thing but a ccminon
piece of cloth wrapped round his loins ; fo that he
teemed to avoid all outward pomp, and even to demean
himfrlf more than any of his Earecs around him. Wc
have feen his mft)efly work at a paddle, in coming to
and going from the fliip, in common with othcis in
the boat ; and even when fome of his Toutous fat look-
ing on ; and fuch is the tincontroulcd liberty oi' this
happy ifle, that every individual has free acccfs
to nim without the leaft ceremony i hence it is,
that the Earecs and other chiefs are more be-
loved than feared by the bulk of the people. We
ihould think ourfelves happy in knowing more »>! thi»
mild and equal government, than the general out-line ;
for as to the orders of the tonl\itucnt parts, how con-
flrudled, difpofcd, and conncdtcd, lb as to form one
body politic, we can fay but little. I'rom what we
have been able to difcovcr, and gather from informa-
tion, it feems very evidently to be of the feudal kind ;
and a remarkable conformity appears between the po-
litical eflablilhmcnt of Otaheite, and that of the an-
tient Britons, which coniifted of fcvcral fmalt nations,
under feveral petty princes, or chiefs, who in cafes of
common danger united under one head. Thefe chieft
had all of them their refpedive families, who multi-
plying, became a diflind clafs from the common peo-
ple, and prcferved by their perfonal courage, and le-
nity, a very great influence over them. Of thefe two
clalfes, added to that of the prieflhood, the whole bodf
politic confided ; fo that among them, what one clafs
found neceffary to command, the other was ready t*
execute. Hence it was that indudry took place, and
arts were invented; and this feems to be the prefent
date of the iflanders of w hom wc are now fpcaking.
Laws they had none, but fuch as arofc from the idea of
fuperiority ^ind fubiniflion. fuch as excite parents to
correct the faults of their children ; neither have the
Otahciteans any other at this day. There is no crime
among them that fubjedls a man to death, and when
life is taken away, it is always in the heat of paflion or
refentment, and not the cffe&. of formal accufation and
deliberate puniihment. The contentions that arofe
among the chiefs became the quarrels of the whole
community, and thofe quarrels nccelFarily led the par-
tics to have recourfe to arms, and in proportion as the
contentions grew more frequent, the weapons that were
contrived for defence, grew more defperate. It was
not, however, till after civilization took place, that
contentions for liberty began to fpread devadation
among people of the fame community. In their pri-
mary date of fubje(flion, the people never entertained
a thought that they were in flavery : they obeyed as
children do their parents, from a principle originating
in nature, which induces the weak to fubmit to the
ftrong, and thofe of uninformed underdanding to be
foverned by thofe whofe wifdom and courage they rea-
lly acknowledge. This, in our opinion, is an impar-
tial and juft rcprefenution of the Itate of the civil go-
vernment in Otaheite, wherein none think themfelves
flaves, yet few are free.
At to the Kltgion of thispco{>le, we arc as much at a
lots
i
m.i
i6o
capt. c o o K t V o Y A Cf E s c o M p L i: I i;.
I-
Inft Inr nutrriali to form in npi lion on ihii Aihlecl ai
former navi^aiun. The lialr mtoniiation wc have hi-
therto rrcrivetl i» To va^ienml < onirAilictory, that no.
thing with certainty lan he (iiid about it. Wc have
fail! thev have iiloN, yet they appear m>t to be iilo-
latcr* I that they h;nc pliKTi of worlhip, yet never af.
femble in ron|;re|^tionH to |wiy adoration t that they ac>
knowlf ilgf ileitiet of (ivcrfli orilcM, but that they have
no tiirm* of aiUltillinj,' thcin i aiul that they mutter
fomeuhat like extcin|M>riry pr.iM'M, yet have no ora-
tories, or formj of ilcvotion, nor any fct tiiuei for
private or public worlhip. Thoy have priclU likewife
of fcvcral orilern, who have (iilfcrent otlices afTigncili
but few of thofc olliion .ire particularized, except that
they prcliile ami pr.iy at liincralit. anit arc the principal
attendants at their Mora i, or burying places i though
it docs not a; pear that any ceiemnnies of devotion
arc performed there. 'I'hc otlicci that have been ob-
fcrveil as appertaining to the priellluKHl are three,
naimiy, cinuiiv ilini^ tattowing, and praying at the
funeral i of the dead. I hat of cirruniciling is not pcr-
foniud after the manner of the Jews, but after a pc-
rulinr manner of their own, and has no doubt the pu-
rity of the circumcifed liirits objeCl, in bringing every
part about thein into contact with the water, witn
\Oiiih they conHantly walh three times c\cry day.
'lattowing, whatever its objeOl, is never omittca i and
^inlying for the dead it a proof that they believe in the
foiii's exifting in a lennrate Hate, after death, which ii
confirmed by their placing meat anil drink in their bu-
rying places. In thiscuimm, they are far from being
lingular. Among th<' anticnt Komaivi, in the infancy
111' their flat , they placed meat upon the tombs of
their deceafed friends, that the gholis might come out
.Tiul cat. ai. they believed they would j and when they
intended to exprefs the moli abjcCt flate of human
V rctc+iednefn, they ufed to fay, " fuch a creature gets
his food from the tombs." 'I he characTtcr of the Ta-
howa in Otahcite, very nearly corrcfponds w ith that of
l)ruid among the antient Britons. lie is the chief
prielt, and his erudition conlilh in learning the feveral
traditional memorials of anticnt times ; in being made
acquainted w ith the opinion of their anccllors, concern-
ing the origin of things ; and in the repetition of fliort
niyfterioiis fentcnccs, in a language which none but
thofct)f their I wn orders can underftand. The Bra-
mims of the eail have their mylUc, unknown tongue,
as have alfo all the followers of the great Zoroaftcr.
'I'hc prielhs arc fupcrior alfo to the reft of the people in
the knowledge of navigation and aftronomy, and in
all the liberal arts, of which thcfe people have any
idea. Thus far the character of the lahowa agrees
with that of Uruid, in every particular. The Druids
were the only perfons of any fort of learning, which
< onlilkd in the obfcrvation of the heavens, knowledge
of the ftais, whereby they prefaged future events ; they
had the care of ail religious matters, and their authority
wasabfoluie. The chief of the Druids, was pontiff
or high priel^, whofe dignity was cleclive. Thus we
iii'c;ht trace the conformity of the cuftoms and manners
of nations remote from each other, in their infant flate,
but wc wave fuch an enquiry, as it might be thought
foreign to our bufinefs in hand.
Wc fliall conclude this hiftorical ITtetch of Otahcite
with a brief account of their funeral ceremonies, in
which the prieft and the people jointly artilt. When
a native is known tabe dead, tht houfc is filled with
relations, who deplore their lofs, fomc by loud lamen-
tations, and fonie by lefs clamorous, but more genuine
expreflions of grief. Thofc who arc the neareft de-
gree of kindred, and moft aflbdfcd by the event, arc
liient ; the reft arc one moment uttering paflionate cx-
prclHons, or exclamations in a chorus, and the next
laughing and talking, without the leaft appearance of
concern, much like the manner of the wild Irifli ;
but this folcmnity is continued for a day and a night,
whereas by the Iriih it is continued feveral nights. On
the next morning the body is flirouded, and conveyed
to the fea fide on a bier, upon the shoulders of the
bearers, and attended by the priclt, who having prayed
over the boily, repeat* hit fentcnccs tiuring the pro-
ccdion. When they arrive at the watem edge, it ti fet
down on the bcm h: the pricl* renew* hi* prayer*, and
taking up foine of the water in hit hand, fprinklo it
toward* the hotly, but not uiwn it. It i* then carried
back forty or fifty yard*, and foon after hruiight again
to the beach, where the prayer* and fprinklmg arc ic-
pcated. It is thus removed baikwaids ami lluward*
feveral time«i and during thepcrdiman. etit this cere-
mony, A houfc has been built, and a fiiiall piece of
ground railed round, in the lentre of which a llage i«
iT.Chil whereon they place the bier, and the btnly i*
left to putrify, till the fldh is waded from the Ixmc*.
A* foon a* the IkxIv i* depolited in the Moral, the
mourning is renewe«l. The women now airemblc, and
are led to the d«x)r by the ncarelt reLition, whoftriken
a Ihark's tooth feveral time* into the crown of her head :
the blood copioully follow*, and is caieliilly received
upon piece* of cloth, or linen, which are thrown un-
der the bier. The rel^ of the women fiillow this exam-
ple, and the ceremony is repeated at the interval of
two or three days, as long as the zeal and (iirrow of the
parties hold out. 'J he tears alfo which are llied upon
thi* occalion are received upon piei es of cloth, and of-
fered a* oblations to the dcail. Some of the younger
people cut oil their hair, which is liktwile thrown un-
der the bkr. This cuftom is foundcjl on the notion,
ai fomc of our gentlemen thought, that the foul of
the deceafed is hovering alwut the place where the body
is depufited i that it obferves the actions of the fur-
vivors, and is pratifieti by fuch tellimonies of their af-
fection and grief) but whether this is jiart of the na-
tives faith ill very problematical! neither, in our opi-
nion, is it certain, that the priell is an attendant in
the funeral procedion down t<) the waters edge i for in
the funerals at which Mr. Danks was a ) aity,' no men-
tion is made of a pried j and Tiilierai 'I'uinaide, who
wa» chief mourner, performed the whole of the fu-
m rul fcrvice. 1 i.e natives arc all laid to fly before thefe
piocefTions, and the rcafon a(Iij;ned is, becaufe the
chief mourner carries in his hand a long flat flick, the
edge of which is fet with lliarks, aiulin a phrenfy,
which hi« grief is fuppofed to have infpircd, he run* at
all he fees, and if any of them happen to be over-
taken, he drikcs them moft unmercifully w ith his in-
dented cudgel, which cannot fail to W( und them in a,
moft dangerous manner; but this rcafon, though a
plaufible one, does not, in our judgment, feem to como
up to what is faid in the courie of the relation, by the
compiler of Capt. Cook's voyage, who tells us, that
while the corpfe is carrying in procedion, the people
every where fly and hide thcmfelves in the wood*, and
that none but thofc immediately concerned in it, if
they can avoid it, come in fight. Were it only for fear
of the cudgel that thefe people fled, they needed not
run fo far as the woods, nor to quit their houlcs (as Mr.
Banks obferved they did when the corpfe of an old
woman, whofe funeral he attended, came by in pro-
ccfTion) to hide thcmfelves in holes j it would have
been fudicicnt for them to have kept out of the reach
of the cudgel j but they niuft be aw ed by fome fccrct
motive 5 fome fuperftitious dread of fome misfortune
happening to them, fliould they meet the corpfe, ci-
ther in an unlucky place, or in an ominous lituation |
as at this day many people in the northern parts of Bri-
uin get out of the way of a corpfe when carrying to
the grave, for thcfe or the like rcalbr.?. The people of
Otahcite, wc think, arc not intimidated by the appre-
henlion of being beaten ; but they may have a dread
upon them of they know not what ; yet it is fuch a
dread as infcnfibly impels them to keep at a diftancc,
and if they are by accident furprizcd, and meet a
corpfe at the comer of a ftrect, or the rounding of a
hill, they never fail to bicfs thcmfelves, and turn the
way the corpfe is carrying, and walk in the fame di-
redion for feveral paces to avert the bad cfledls of the
unlucky omen, which they always interpret againfl
tbcmfclvcs. In an account of the funeral ceremonies
pf the iflandcrs in the South Seas, the writer, who
judged from what he himfclf faw, and not from wha^
was
^•-■rot making uijnvtritJ
Louiul the trarlt
W» refioned to him, lelU m, thtt the prleft, «cf om-
panicil with twuboyi ptintcd Mark, •iicnd the Monti,
or pl«:« where the corpfe U depoHted, to receive the
hngi. fi(h, ami och«r proviflmu, which on thefe occa-
flont arc offered to th« Eihoo*, or deity of the place,
Knd to lay them upon *n alnr. Thii prieft i» alfi> em-
ployed In ftrrwing iwer the body of the defum't Irnvc «,
an(( ftowen of bamboo j and for two or three day» he
oetallonally rangeathc adjacent Md> and wooHi, (roin
whit >\ every one retire* on hit approach. The rela-
tions, in the mean time, build a temporary houfe near
the Vtorai, where they aflemble, and tne fetnairi mourn
for the dcceafed, by flnaing fongt of grief, howliiiir,
and wounding their bodici in cRlTcrcnt placei with
(harks teeth i afVrr which they bathe their wounds in
the next river or Tea, and again return to houl and cut
themfelvet, which they continue for three day«. After
the bodv ii corrupted, and the bonei are become bare,
the (kcleton in dcpolited in a fort of ftone-pyramid
buiht for that purpofc. Thcfc Moraii are frequented
by 'WO birda (acred to their gtxii, namely, the grey
h( M, and a blue and brown king-filher i but whether
thcfc birds, or the pried and hit attendants eat the of-
ferings that are made to the prefiding deitv, or whether
they are eaten at all, we are not informcii, though we
have fparcd no pains in making enquiries among our
friends and fellow voyagers, concerning this and fcveral
other doubtful and queftionable (mrticiilars. It is
agreed, however, that the piety of the natives it in no
inAnncc fo (Irongly exprefTed as in ihe profulion of co-
vering they beftow upon the remains of their dcceafed
friends, and in the ornaments with which they decorate
their Morais, but thefe Morais arc not the receptacles
of the ordinary dead, but appropriated folcly to the
ufc of the principal families to which each rcfpcd-
fully belongs : how it farei with the bodiei of thccom-
mon herd we could not learn, whether they arc fuf-
fcred to rot upon the ground, or under it i nor have
our principals atforded us information concerning this
particular i indeetl they fecm to have l>een moft intent
upon what is ftriking in hish life, without regarding
the ordinary occurrenc"s that daily pafs among the
nuiltitudei thefe did not much attrad their notice.
We diall juft add to what has been faid under this
head, that the Otaheiteans have neither phyHciaiii or
furgeons, by profcHion, except the prieft, whofc relief
confiftt in prayers and ceremonies, not in dnigs or prc-
fcriptions ; yet we muft not conclude from hence, that
they arc dehcicnt in' the art of healing. Two or three
initances occur in the relations of different voyagers,
which, to fay no more, are ftriking proofs of their
knowledge in what is neccflary toprefervclife. Tupia
was pierced through the body with a lance, headed with
the jagged bone of the fting-ray: the weapon went in
at hitrack, and came out ju(t under his brcafl ; yet he
was pcrfcdlly cured, and never complained of any bad
etFedts of his wound. One man had his h' d almoft
crufhcd, his face beat in, his nofc Hatted, ,iid one eye
beat out, the hollow of which would almofl admit one's
fift ; yet this man, we are told, was cured, and to all
appearance felt no remaining pain. A third had a
(lone through his head with a ding, in the time of
aflion, and yet, (Irangc and improbable as it may
fecm, h. like the others, wc arc informed, appeared
to enjoy i good ftatc of health. We will not vouch
for the truth of all the circumdanccs in thcfc relations,
which we think are rather of the marvellous kind, yet
we may \<. allowed to infer from the fads thcmiclvcs,
that they are inconteftiblc proofs, that the natives of
Otaheitc have a knowledge of the virtues oi balfams,
of which wc arc either not poircfTed, or arc ignorant
of their healing qualities. From this narrative of the
ifland of Ouhcite and its inhabitants, fome will be
ready to envy them their felicity ; but it muft be re-
membered as a foil to this, that they do not always
flcep iff fecurity : they are frequently lurpriied by their
warlike neighbours, and whole diftrida arc depopu.
kted ; for if in the inva(ions of one another's temto-
ries, they happen to prove fucccfsful, the vidors fparc
neither man. woman, nor child. But it is time now
No. 19.
to return to tht fliip, which on the 14th of May wc
ictr under fail, and that night (he cleared the reef.
()n Sunday the 1 jth, we had an open fea, with A
fine breete in cnir favour, and nurftied our voyage to
the N. W. ind N. W. by W. Tne fame night we inadt^
the idand of Hu.iheinr, and anchored in the north
entrance of O'Wharrc harbiiie red fcithert, which he held
in hit hand, and muttered over them a pravcr. This
morning the i>eoi)le began to bring ut fruit. The
chief fcnt in two nogs, whii h were followed by hiin-
felf and friends who came to dine with tit. Oree
afked for axc4 anil nailt, which were readily givcrt
him. Thefe he diftributedaihetileafed, butbelloMcd
the largell fliarc uimn a )ntith wno ap|>earcd to b«' hit
grandlon. After tne dilUibution w.xi over they all re-
turned alhore. Mr. Forfter, and a party with him,
went up the country to examine its produdiont 1 whic h
he continued at a daily talk during the fhip't conti-
nuance in this harbour. At a fervant of Mr. Forftcr'j
was walking along the Oiorc, without a cnmp.inion, he
wat befet by fcveral ftout fellows, who would have
dripped him, had not fome of our people arrived to
his adldance. One of the men made otf w ith a hatchet.
This day the niiinbcr of nativet that came about the
fliip wa< fo great, that it was found neccflary to place
fentinclt in th'.- gangwayi, to prevent the men front
coming on Iward ( but no oppontion wat made to the
women, lo that the Oiip watcrouded with them.
On Tuefday, the lyth, wc found Oree, and a great
number of the priiicmal people alRnibled in a houfe
confulting together. Wc heard the late robbery men-
tioned by them fcveral timet 1 but the chief allured us,
neither himfelf nor his friends had any hand in the
fame, and defircd Capt. Cook to kill with his guns
thofe that had. Wc could not learn where the rob-
bers were gone, and therefore, at prefenc, took no
more notice of the affair. In the eveninq; a dramatic
enteruinment was exhibited. The fubjcA of the piece
was that of a girl running away with us from Otaheitc.
Tliis was not wholly a fiction, for a girl had taken her
padage with ui from Ulietea. and was at this time prc-
lent when her own advcntum were reprcfentcd : (he
could hardly refrain from tears whilethc playwasadingt
and it was with much difficulty wc perfuaded her to
day out the entertainment. At the conclufion of
the piece, the girl's return to her friends was reprc-
fentcd J and the reception die met with wat not a fa-
vourable one. It is very probable that this part of the
comedy was dedgned to deter others from going away
with Ub.
On Wednefday, the i8th, king Oree came and
dined on board, and the Capuin, at his dedre. or-
dered the great guns to be diotted, and fired into the
water, by way of falutc at his arrival and departure :
indeed he had by Oedidce given us to undcrftand, that
he cxpcdcd the fame honours to be paid to him, as
had been (hewn to the chiefs of Otaheitc. A party of
petty officers having obtained leave to amufc themfelvcs
in the country, they took with them fome hatchets,
nails, &c. in bags, which were carried by two natives,
who went with them at their guides, to fhew the way.
Thefe fellows madcoflr with the truft repofed in them,
and artfully enough effeded their efcapc. The party
had with them two mufquets j and after it had rained
fome tim«, the natives pointed out fome birds for them
'o dWot. One of the guns went off. and the other
nided fire fcveral times. At this indaiit, when the fel-
lows Isw thcmfelves fecure from both, they took the
opporttmity to run away, and not one of the party,
bcingall much furprized, had prefence of mind enough
to purfue them. On the i9tn a report was current,
that the natives intended to rife and atttck the (hip.
The captain, though he did not think them ferious m
fuch ail attempt, yet was unwilling toully to diftegard
the inthnhation: he therefore ordered twenty ftand of
arnu to be in rcadiners, to cafe any commotion (boulc*.
« S h.
be obfcrvcd among them ; but though the rumour in-
creafed throughout the day, yet no preparations could
be perceived to countenance fuch a report ; and the
king continued hi« vifits as ufual, never coming empty
handed.
On Friday, the 20th, the firll and fccond lieutenants
with one of the mates, being out on a fliooting party,
they were befet by more than fifty of the natives, who
tirft took from them their arms, and then robbed them
of what artidcs they had carried with them to trade.
In the fcufflc the firft lieutenant loft the Mtt of his
coat, and one of the other gentlemen received a fcverc
blow. When the robbers had ftripped them of their
merchandizes, they reftored to them their fowling
pieces. When this tranfaiilion came to the knowledge
of Cipt. Cook, he went immediately with a boat's crew
on Ibore, and entered a large houfe wherein were two
chiefs. This, with all their cffeds, he took polTeflion
. of, and remained there, till he heard that the gentle-
men had got fafc on board, and had all their things re-
ftorcd to them. Oedidce informed us, Orce was fo
much art'eded with the relation of this, that he wept
much. When on board, we learnt from the officers
thcmfelves, that a fmall infult on their part was the
occafion of the affray; but fomc chiefs interfering,
took the officers out of the croud, and . caufcd every
thing which had been taken from them to be reftorcd.
On the 2 1 ft, we faw upwards of lixty canoes, moft of
the people in th« (n being Eareeoics, fleering for Ulictca,
and we heard they were going to vifit their brethren in
the neighbouring iflands. It fcems thefe people have
cuftoms among thcni peculiar to thcmfelves ; andaffift
each other when neceffity requires ; we may therefore
call them the Free Mafons of Huahcine. This day
Orce fcnt a melTagc to Capt. Cook, dei. ng he woul^
come on ftiore, and bring twenty-two men with him,
in order to fearch for and chaftife the robbers. Oedidce
brought with him twenty^two pieces of leaves to affift
hismemor)-, a cullom vcrV common among thefc peo-
ple. This meflage fcemed to us an extraordinary one,
and therefore the captain went to the chief for better
information. Orce mformed him, that thefe fellows
were a fct of banditti, who had formed thcmfelves
into a body, and had refolvcd to rob all they met, fur
which purpofe they vcre now aflcmbled and armed.
Thefe robbers Oree wanted us to attack, the captain
faid they would fly to the mountains ; but he affured
us to the contrary, and defired we would dcflroy both
them and their habitations, only fparing their canoes.
This requeft feemed extraordinary, but the captain was
refolvcd to comply with it in part, left thefe fellows
fliould make more head, and become formidable ; and
alfo w ith a view of preventing the report from gaining
ground in Ulictca, where we intended going, and wc
were apprehenlive aflbciations might be formed in like
manner, and the people might treat us in the fame
way, or worfe, they being more numerous. Capt.
Cook and his officers made ready to accompany king
Oree in the expedition againft the robbers ; and havine
ordered fifty marines with fome failors to be well
armed, they landed near the palace of the king, and
having required him to condud them according tq his
promife, he very readily confcnted, and they all fct out
together in very good order. The party incrcafcd at
wc proceeded ; and Oedidce told us, that fcveral of the
banditti had joined us, with the view of decoying us
into a place, where they might attack us to advantage.
As we could place no confidence in any other perlon,
we took his advice, and proceeded with caution. Wc
inarched fevcfal miles, when Capt. Cook declared he
would proceed no Cirther ; befidcs, we were informed
that the men had fled i- the mountains. At this lime
we were about to crofs a deep valley, with fteep rock$
' 9fl each fide, where our retreat might have been rendered
. difficult, by a few men aflaulting us with ftones.
Oedidce perfifted in his opinion ; and we marched
bjick. in the fafnc order as we came. As wc went aiong>
we obicrved fcveral people coming down the iidex of
the hills with clubs, which they immediately hid when
they ifound wc faw them. Thb WHS fepM CQofinnt-
r 3
tion of Ocdidec'* fufpiciuns 1 but we could not pcr-
fuade ourfelvcs that the chief had any fuch intention,
whatever might be the defigiu of his people. In our
return we huted at a convenient place, and wanting
fome refreflimenu, they were immediately broiight us.
When we arrived at the landing place vie difchaqjcd
fcveral volleys, to convince the natives, that we could
fiipport a continutd fire ; after which we returned on
board, and the chief dined with us ; having brought
with him a hog ready drefled. After dinnct wc re-
ceived a great number of prefents as peacc-oflcrings.
Two chiefs brought each of them a pig, a dog, and
fbmc young plantain trees, and with due ceremony
prefcntcd them fingjy to the captain^ Another brought
a very large hog, with which he had followed us to the
fliip. A quantity of fruit was brought us by others {
fo that we ^i^ere likely to make more by this little ex-
curfion, than by all the prefents we had made them ;
and the expedition had one good elFcd at leaft, for the
people were convinced that tnufqucts were more terri-
ble things than they at firft imagined. We were pro-
mifcd a larger fupply of hogs and fruit the next day ;
but the chief was not fo good as his word. W? went
afliorc in the afternoon, and found him fitting down to
dinner. The people about him immediately began
chewing the pepper root ; a cup of the juice was pre-
fcntcd to Capt. Cook, but he did not like ihc method
of brewing it. Oedidce was not fo nice, and immedi-
ately fwallowed what the captain refufcji The chief
w allied his mouth with cocoa-nut water after he had
taken the juice of the pepper root, and ate a large
quantity oi plnntain, rcpc, and nnlice, and finiflied
his dinner by eating and drinking a compofltion of
plantains, bread-fruit, mahee, &c. of the conliftcnce
of a cuftard ; of this he took about three pintsj lie
dined in the open air, at the outfide of his hoiifc, aiid
during dinner time a play was pcrfonnitig within the
houfe.
On Monday f '-.c jjd, we put to fea. The chief and
Capt. C«x>k took an alFcdionate leave of each other.
When Orce heard that we never intended coming there
any more, he faid, Let your fona come, we will treat
them well. Wc did not get a fufticient fupply of hogs
at this ifland, though they did not appear to be fcarce;
but wc obtained more fruit than we well knew what to
do with. Our ftock in trade bcii^ nearly cxhaufted,
we found it ncceflTary to fct the fmiths to work, in ma-
king diftcreni forts of iron tools, that an influence might
be kept up at the other iflands, and to enable us to pro-
cure refreflimcnts.
On Tuefday the 24th, we anchored in Ulietea, and
was vifited by Oreo the chief, who brought with him a
handfome prefent. A party of us went afliore to make
the chief a prefent. and as we entered his houfe we
were met by five old women, who lamented very bit-
terly, and cut their faces in a Ihocking manner. This
was not the worft part of the ftory, for we were
obliged to fubmit to their amiable embraces, and get
ouriclves covered with blood. Afur this ceremony
was over, they waflied themfclvts, and appeared as
chearful as any other perfon.
On Friday the 27th, Oreo paid us a vifit, in com-
pany with his wife, fon and daughter, and brought
with them a very handfome prefent of all kinds of re-
frelhments. We accompanied them on fliore after din-
ner, and were entertained with a play which con-
cluded with the reprcfentation of a woman in labour,
performed by a fct of brawny fellows i the child that
was brought forth was at Icaft fix feet high. As fooA
as the child was delivered, they prcflisl his nofe, which
fcemed to indicate that they really ukc thii method
with all their children, which occafions tlut flatnefs
which their nofes generally have. On the a9th fevcral
thing* were flolen out of our boau, which lay at the
buoy ; but on application to the chief, we had them
all returnol, except an iron tiller, and in lieu of that
they brought us two largo hogs. On Monday, the jorii,
a party of us fet out for Oedidee's eftatc on the thir-
tieth inftant, accompanied by the chief and his family.
When wc vriyed there, we found that Oedidce could
not
'^ECONb VOYAGE— for making Difcoveries in the South Seas & Round the JVorld. 1 63
hot command any thing, though he had promifcd us
hogs and fruit in abundance ; they were now in poiTcf-
fion of his brother. We had here an opportunity of
feeing them kill and drefs a pig, which wAadone in the
following manner : three men iirft ftraneled the hog ;
the hog was laid on his back, tMO men laid adick acrofs
hit throat, pretTing at each end, the third man ftuffcd
up his fundament with grafs, and held his hind legs.
The hog was kept in this pofition for ten. minutes, be-
fore he was dead. An oven, which was clofc by, was
heated. They laid the hog on the fire as (bon as he
was dead, and linged otfhis hair; he was then carried
to the fea-fide and waflied. The carcafe was then laid
on clean green leaves, that it might be opened. They
Ard took out the lard, and laid it on a greeii leaf, the
cntrniis were then taken out and carried away in a baf-
ket : the blood was put into a.large leaf. The hog was
then waihed quite clean, and feveral hot l^bhes wcte put
into his body ; it was then placed in the oven on hii
belly, the lard and fat were put in a veflel, with two
or three hot (loncj, and placed dion'g-lidt the hog; the
blood was tied up in it leaf, with a not (lone, and put
into the oven ; they covered the whole with leaves, dn
which were placed the remainder of the hot ftones;
they afterwards threw a great deal of rubbiih in, and
covered the whole with icarth. A table was fpi-ead with
ercen leaves, while the hog was baking, which took up
little more than two hours. We fat down at one end of
the table, and thb natives, whb dined with us, at the
other; the fat and blood were placed before them, and
the hog before us. We thought the pork exceeding
good indeed, and evef)' part of it was well done. The
natives chiefly dined of the fat and blood, and faid it
was very good viduals. The whole of this cookery vas
condutttea with remarkable cleanlinefs. This eftatc of
Ocdidce Was fmall, but very pleafant i and the houfes
formed a pretty village. After we had dined, we re-
turned to the (nip. In 0;ur w-a/ ^^ **!* 'o"'' wooden
images, each two feet loiig. They ftood on a (hclf,
had It Lirge piece of cloth round tne middle, a tiirbin
on their heads, ftuck with cocks feathers. They told
us thefe were their fervanis gods.
On Tuefday the jift, the people hearing that we
intended failing, brought abundance of fruit on board,
which" continued on the i ft of June. We were inform-
ed that two fliips had arrived at Huahieinc. The pcr-
fon who brought the information defcribed the perfons
of Capt. Fumeauxand Mr. Banks fo well, that we had
no doubt of the truth of the alTertion ; we therefore
thdught of fending a boat over there, but a man came
onboard, and declared the whole to be a lye. We
could not confront the fellow who brought the intelli-
gence, foi- he was gone away, and the danger offending
the boat was put a ftop to.
On Saturday the 4tn of June, the chief and his family
came on board to take leave, bringing a handfome pre-
fcrtt with thcni. Thefe people denied that there were
any (hips at Huaheine. We were very much importun-
ed to return to this place ; when we told them we could
not, their grief was bitter, and we believed it to be
real. They defired Capt. Cook to acquaint them with
his burial place, and (aid they would be buried with
him, A (trong proof of a(fe(ftion and attachment.
We ieft Ocdidce here, as we could not promife that
more (hip4 would be fent from England to ihofe iflands :
he left us with infinite regret. Oedidce did not leave
lis till we were Out df the harbour, and (laid to (ire fome
guns, it being his MajcHy's birth-daj-. This youth
Was of a gentle docile, humane difpofition, and would
have been a better fpecimen of the natives than
Omiah.
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CHAP. VI.
I^efafturt' of the Re/olutionJhmiHi'etea^neidenis at Savag^e Ijhnd^—hftance'of the fencity of the natives— Defcript ion of
tbisijland — Paffagefrom hence to Rotterdam — Remarkable tranf aft ions at this place, and the infolence of the natives — An
account of the people iH turtle JJland — Ow calledby the natives Ambrym difcwcred-r-Tranfanions •a.hilehere, and ferocious
Mavioulr of the inhabitants— A particular defcripticn of thefe people — The Refolution continues her courfe frmn Port
Sandtvich-^PaJfesT'hree-hillandjhepberifs Ijlamls — Steers in a direiiion for Sandwich Ijland, in order to difcover the
Southern extremity of the Archipelago — HoJIile iehaviour of the natives of Sandwich Jfte, ami of feveral iflands, particular-
ly Tanna, and Erromango — An account of a Volcano — Cbardi^erofParMangagrcatchief—Adefcription of the country,
^Ci — Departure of the Rrfilutionfrom theifland of t anna — The natives defcribed — Arrives at Erromango— The weftem
eoafi of the New Hebrides explored— More new iflands difcwered^-Inhabitants and country about Cape Calnctt defcribed
— fhe ifland if Pines difcovered, nilban atcount of tbejfe and other trees.
(parly; they threw their darts, and appeared very feroci-
bus. We difchargcd (bmt mufquetS in the air. but
this did riot intimidate them, for they ftill threw darta
and ftones. Capt. Cook's mufquet midcd (ire. other-
wife he would certainly have killed the ring-leader of
them. The men dnlwH upon the tock fired at fome
who appeared on the heights, which rather allayed the
ardour of Our antagonifts, and wc had an opportunity
to join the tnarinest We do not think any of the n»-
tives were hurt, but they all retreated into the woods;
and feeitig we could make nothing of them, we returned
to the fh^. Capt. Cook named this place Savage Ifland,
from the condud dnd afpei5l of the iflandcrs; its (itua-
tionis fouth latitude 19 deg. i min. weft longitude 169
deg. 37 min. its foiln is circular, and is about 1 1 leagues
in circumference. The countty appears entirely cover-
ed with trees and (hrubs. Nothing but coral rocks
were to be feen along the (hores. The inhabitants do
not appear to be very numerous ; they go entirely naked,
except round the waift, and feem ftout well made men.
Some of them had their thighs, breaft. and faces painted
black.
We (leered for Rotterdam, and as we drew near it
feveral canoes laden with fruit came along-fide of us,
but we did not (horten fail. The people on board them
wanted us much to go towards thegr coaft, telling us, as
well
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TH E day aftcj' we left Ulictci ive fdw laiidj which
proved to be a low ifland difcovered by Capt.
Wallis, and called by him Howe Ifland. Wt faw land
again on the i6th, which we called Palmerftdn Ifland,
in honour of lord Palmcrfton, one of the lords of the
Admiralty. On the 20th we difcovered land again,
and inhabitanu appearing upon the fliore 1 we equipped
two boats, and as wc approached, the inhabitants re-
tired into the woods. When we landed, wt took poft
on a high rock, to prevent a furprife. and the botani-
fing party began colleaing plants, with which the
country feemed covered. Capt. Cook took two men
with him and entered the woods, but on hearing the
inhabitants approach they returned. We made every
friendly (Ign in our power, but were anfwered by
menaces ; and one of the natives threw a ftone, which
ftfuck one of our party. Two mufquets were fired
mdifcnminately, and they all retreated into the wtMds.
Having embarked, we proceeded along the coaft till
wc came to a place where four canoes lay. In order
to prevent being furprifed, and to fecure a retreat, the
men were drawn up upon a rock. Awn whence they
had a view of the heights. Capt. Cook and only four
genderoen with him went to look at the canoes. Veiy
toon after the natives ruihed out of the wood upon us,
and wc endeavoured to no purpofe to bring them to a
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well af they wtre able, wc midit fafely anchor there.
They enquutd for Capt. Cook by name. Wc came to
anchor on the north-fide of the ifland on the a6th
il^nt. The inhabitants brought to us great quanti-
tk* of yatitsand haddocks, for which wc gave them old
rags anid nails. A party of us went afiiore to look for
water, and wert civilly "received by the natives. We
got fome water, but it was rather brackifli. We got a
plentiful fupply of fruit and oats, as well as water, but
happened to leave the furgcon on (hore. He got a
canoe to bl'inghim off; but jud as he was getting into
it, 6nc of the natives fnatchcd away his mufquet and
ran oif with it, after which no pcrlen would bring him
on board. He ccruinly would have been ftripped,
had he not prefcnted a tooth-pick cafe to them, which
they took for a little gun. Wncn Capf. Cook heard of
this tranfatfbion, he went alhore ; but the natives fled at
his approach. We did wrong in not taking any (leps
for the recovery of the gun, as it encouraged the in-
habiunts to make more depredations. A boat was
fcntafhore on the 28 th for (omc water, when the peo-
ple behaved in a rude and daring manner : it was with
difficulty they got their water-calks filled, and into the
boats again. The lieutenant who commanded this
party had his gun fnatchcd from him, and molt of
the people had fomcthing or other taken away from
them. This was the eiTcct of ill timed lenity. Capt.
Cook landed foon after, and refolved to have the gun
redored. All the marines were onlcicd afhorc armed.
As the botanifing party were in the country, three guns
were fired from the (hip to alarm them, as wc dicTnot
know how the natives might behave to them. The
natives knew well enough what we mtended, and
brought the muPiuct lone oefore the marines got afhore.
When the lieutenant andihe marines arrived, they all
fled; Capt. Cook feized two double canoes in the cove,
and threw a few fmall (hot into a fellow's legs, who
made feme rcfiflanc^. Wc very foon obtained the other
mufquet, and thenj^thc canoes were reftored. When
wc returned to thcMve, the people wanted to perfuade
Mi that the man Caj)*. Cook fired at was dead, which
Mc thought very iHiprobablc. Capt. Cook defired a
nun to rcdore a cooper's adze which had been (lolcn
that morning, and he went away, as we thought, to fetch
it ; but we were miftaken, for he foon returned with
the wounded man (Iretched out on a board apparently
dead. The furgeon was fent to drefs his wounds,
which in his opinion were but flight, and of no confc-
qiicncc. Capt. Cook fliH infifleaupon the adze, uid
with a great deal of difliculty obtained it. An old
woman prefented a young girl to Capt. Cook, giving
liim to undcrftand that flie was at his fervice. The
girl was artful enough, and wanted tobaigain for a fhirt
and a fpikc nail, neither of which the captain had with
him. He was then given to underftand that he might
retire with her upon credit, which he refilled. The old
procurcfs then abufed him, faying he was infcnfibfetoher
charms; the girl was very pretty, and wanted to go
aboard a fliip with the capuin ; but he would not taxe
her, as he had given orders nn women (hould be skU
initted thcrp.
On the 29th Me failed, and a great many canoes cune
up with us, loaded with fruit. Sec. which were exchang-
ed for the ufual commodities. The paflion of our
pe»ple forcuriofities was at f;reat as ever, and they were
tlripped of moll of the cWhes the ladies ofOtaheite had
(etc them. We llretched out for Amattafoa on the 30th,
and fcvcral canoes came to us from all pans with the
cominun articles 1 out of one of them we got two
pigs, which in this part of the world are a fcarce
(Commodity. v
On Friday the iirfl of July «%difcovefcd land, the
matter ami the boat were fent inlo the found to find.
. anchorage, four or five people weie^^ifcovered on the
fhore. who retreated as the boat aig^Mced, and they a4i
tied to the wooils \Chen the boat landed. The muter
returned, and brought word there were rte fotNidiog*
without the reef; that he rowed in for the (hore, incoid-
ing to fpcak to the (icople, who were about twenty in
number, armed with clubs and fpears s but they all
returned into the woods on his approach. He left fome
trifles upon the rocks, which they certiinly found, foiT
feveral people were fecn at the place Toon afterwards.
The number of inhabiunu an tint ifland Are fuppofed
to Ik very few, and it is very probable that the few -who
are there only came to catch turtlu, of which there aiiB
a great number here. This ifland is fituaecd S. latitude
19 deg. 48 min. W* longitude 178 deg. 3 min. W« ,
called it Turtle Ifland. ; •?
After a good deal of ftormy weather we favi^ an
ifland. called by the natives Ambrym, on the a in of
July. We difcovered a creek as we drew nearer ^t^
ihore, which had the ajwicanincc of a good harbouftV
many people were affcmbled, who invited us on (hor<^\
but. we did not chufe to go, as they were armed with ;
bows and arrows. ^We fent out two armed boautc dif* ^*>
cover a port about a league more to the fouth, where >
we anchored in #cvcn ftuioms water. Seven) of the
natives came m. to us, but aSed with great cautinfi ;
at la(t they trufted diemielves aloagfide, uid exchan^
arrows forpiccesef cloth. The arrows were pointed with
bone, and dipped in a green gumimr fiibltance, which
we imagined to be poifonous. IVqcWb were made to
two ftien who ventured on board, a^ others came at
night for the Suae puipof^ Jb*^ dik WM^aot ad.>
mitted.
On the 32nd, in the nor
round usi fome fwam, WlL^^^
We prevailed on one man wlwHSBodmittilty to come
on board, and he waa&llowcdby more than wc «rKhed.
Various articles were given to four of chcm, whtch^Mf"
taken into the cabin ; thetc they (hewed toothen i#tli
canoes, who were vtry-well pWed with their recep-
tion. We were all put in coniiifion by an accident
which hi^pcned while thefe were in the cabin. One
of the natives who had been refofed admittance int«
one of our boats bent his bow at the boat-keeper, to
(hoot a poifoned arrow at him; he was. prevented by
feme of his countrymen, and Capt. Cook was ad-
quainted with it. Capt. Cook went on deck, and faw .
a man Itrumling with him, who had leaped out of the'
cabin wiraow for this purpofe. The fdfow again
pointed hb arrow at the boat-keeper ( and on Capt.
Cook's calling out, he pointed the arrow tf the Capt
tain, who ininntiy fired a mufquet at hiio. This ftng-
gercd him for a little v^ile, but he again pointed his
arrow t a fecond (hot oUised lum to defifL Several
began to flioot arrows on me other fide ; but they were
all fent off in the utmorft confofion, by a four pound
fliot being difchatged over their heads. They all to a
man ka^xd overboard. We peimittcd them to come
and take away their canoes, and fome again came along-
fiide the (hip. We heard the beating of drums on
(hore as foon as the four pounder was fired, which wc
took for the fignal for the country ro alTcmble under
arms. However, wc determined to go on (hore' and
feck for wood and fome refivfiunentt, which we wen
very much in wane irf*.
We landed in the bee (^ five hundred men. arsKd
with bowS) arrows, -fytun, and clubs, but they made
no omsofitien. Oipi. €obk advanced akme, with no-
thing but a toten branch in lus hand i on (ceing this, a
peAfon wholeetned to be a chid" gave his bow and ar-
rows to anotfter. and. came to meet him in the water,
took the capuin by the hand, and led him up to the
crowd. "The marines were at this time drawn up on
the beach. Capt. O>ok diitributed feveral prefenu
among them. We made figns that wc wanted wood,
for not one word of their language could we under-
(hind. and in return they made figns for us to <5ut down
the trees. They biwight a fmal| pig for « peace offer-
ing, and welbtttmdoutfelveswidh.thehqxs.of pro-
c^«g more, but thefc were vain and delufivrt for
we «Hy got a fmall quantity of waier. and about half a
t doKn cacoa-out*. They parted fieely with their ar-
rows, but we OBuW not psirehafc of them a^ bowa
without agieat deatof difficulty. Theyi
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cook's second voyage— for making Difcvutriet tn the South Stat 6c Round the World. i6<
evening wc did not chufc to proceed any furtlur, but
Hood off and on all night, when the llirt roic next
morning it difuppcarcJ, and wc fuw not any iaiul b(it
the coart wc were near. On the _3(i, we fi u a boat on
fhore to get fome wood if pofllblc, being nvuh in >yant
of that Reticle % but our pciiplc Could nui land on ac-
(.ount of a high furf oi the (eat and they faw not any
natives on that part of the ille. Having anchonxl in
fcventecn fathoim water, under the N. W. fide of the
head of the land, we faw feveral people on tiie Ihorc,
fome endeavouring to Avim off to \x%\ but they all rc«
tired when they perceived our boat approach toward*
ihetn. On the 1 4th, a partv went out armed to find a
a proper landing place, ana where wc might gain a
fupply of wood and w atcr. We gave the mhabitants
fome medals, &c. with which they appeared much
plcafed,* and direded us to a bay fit for our purpofc.
Ai we went along the fliorc their numbers incrcafcd
prodigioufly. We tried feveral places to land, but did
n«)t approve of their (ituation. At length wc caine to
a fine landy beach, where Capt. Cook ftepped out with-
out wetting his foot. He took but one man with him
piit of the boat, and landed in the face of a large num-
ber of people, having only a green branch in his b.ind.
The innabitants received him with great jwlitcncfs.
One of them, who appeared to be a chief) made the
natives form a femicircle round the head of the boat,
and chaftifed fuch as attempted to prevent it. The
captain gave this pcrfon feveral articles, and by figns
fignified his want of frefli waters upon which a little
was prcfently prefented to him in a bamboo, and having
made figns for fomcthhig to eat, they brought him
yams and cocoa-nuts. Their behaviour was in every
rcfpctt agiecable, yet we did not much like their ap-
pearance, as they were all armed with bows, arrows,
clubs, fpcars, and darts. On this account we kept a
good ly, b-jt
femcwhat woolly. The women were not very invitim,
being father uglv. They wear a penicoat made ofa
plant like pahn leaves ; and the men go in a manner
tuked, having only a belt and wrapper round their
waift. They Nve m houfes covered with thatch, and
their plantations are hid out by line, and fenced round.
Wc faw no canoes in any part of the ifland.
On Thurfilay the 4th of ^ ugull, at two o'clock P. M .
we cleared the bay, and ftcered for the fouth end of the
Kland. Wc dircovcKd on the S. W. fidie of the head
a pretty deep bays its (horcs low, and the hnd appeared
very fertile, but being expofcd to the S. £. winds,
until better known, wc thmk that on the N. W. fide
prefcraMe. The promontory or pcmnfula, which dif-
joins thcfe two bays we named Traitor's Head, fcnrn
the treacherous behaviour of its inhabitants ; it forms
the N. E. point of the ifland, and is fituatcd in the lati^
tude of iS d<^. 43 min. S. and in 169 dec. 38 min. E.
longitude. It tenninates in a faddle hill, which may
be Icen 16 or i ft leagues otVat fca. We continued our
courfe to the S. S. K. when the new ifland we had be-
fore difoowercd, appeared over the S. E. point of one
near us, diltant abmic ro les^ues. Leaving the tal>,
we fteercdfoe the eaA end of the former, being directed
by a great light we fiiw upon it. On the 5th, at fun
rife we came in fight of an ifland, being high table land,
bearing E. by S. and aNb difcovered another little low
ifle which wc had pafifcd in the night. Traitor's Head
was (till in (ight, and the ifland to the S. extended from
S. 7 deg. W. to & (7 deg. W. diflant four miles.
The light feen in the night wc now found toha\-cbeen
a volcano. A rumbtiw noife was heard» and it threw
up great quantities of moke and (ire. We now (Peered
for the iflaind ; aii^ dircovcied a fmaU inlet which had
the appearance ofa good harbour. Two armed boatH
under the command of Lieut. Cooper, wercfent off in
order to found, while the (hip Aood on and ufF. to be
ready to follow or to afford any afllftancc that might be
Suited. We obferved a number of the natives on the
[ point of the entrance, alfofeveral canoes; and when
our boata eiuxred the harbour they launched fomc, but
came not near. At this time Lieut. Cooper made the
fignal fiw anchorage, and wc ftooil in with the (hip. The
wind having left us when wc were widtin the entrance,
we were (bilged to drop anchw, in fourfinhoms water.
The boata were now fcnt out to findabetter anchon^ ;
and while we were thus empknred, many of the natives
came in parties to the fea^fideaU annied, (ome fwam
off to ux, odiers came in cumxw At firft they feemed
afraid of ut, and kept at a diftance, but bv degrees
waxed bolder, and at length came under our ftcm, and
made fomc excnangea. Thofe in one of the firft canoca
thiew towards us ^ne cocoa-mitt. .The captain went
out in ]i boar, picked them up, and in retom fjKvt them
ieveral articles. Others were induced by thu to come
along-fide, who bdnved in a moft infolent manner.
They axtanpted to tear our flag fiom the ftaiT, would
have knockra the rings from the rudder, and we had
no fooner thrown out the buoys of the anchor i)-om the
boMs than they ||at hold ef them. We fired a fhr
mniqueta in the air. of which they took no notice, bm
a four pnuMicr akrmcdthetn (6 much, tfiat they quitted
dieircanM%aiidtooktethti«iter. But flmling them,
fdvea unhurt, ritey got again into thrir caileaa, SmMh*
ed thrir weapon^ halfiiwtd in itfUnrt, and wmi
again tn the bum, but a few nwrquctoon (hot foondii;
pcrTed them. They all ittiitd In hafte w the (hon,
and we At down 10 dinner, unmoieftcd. Irt the inteiu
vai of thoTe tranliiaiomk ■» old man, who Ceemcd to be
amicably difpd'cd, came feveral times, in a fmall canop
between us and the (here, bringing olf each time coco«.>
™"* S?^ y.*"^ ** '^^^'^^ ••* ••** in exchange whatevw
*eoltered him. Another was in the fingway when the
great gim was lired, after which we could not prevail
on him to (hiy. In the evening we landed at the head
of the harbour, with a fxrty ofniert weH armed. The
natives made not the teaft oppofition. though we had
one bedy on oar right, and anodier en our left, all
arvned. We diftributed among the old people foine
prefeata of cloth and medals, and filled two caflcs with
frelh water, an article we gave them to underfland we
much wanted. We sot in return plenty of cocoa>niits,i
bat could not pievail on them to pan with their w -
pons, which they held conftantly in a pollure of de-
fence. The old man was in one of theie parties, but
bv his behaviour, we judged his temper R> be pacilk*.
We thought, by their prening fo much, in fpite of all
our endeavours to keep them at a diflance, that little
would be wanting to induce them to atuck us; but
we rc^mbarked very fooo, and thus, probably, their
fchcme was diicoiKerted.
Saturday the 6th, we brought the (hip as near the'
landing place as poffible, that we might overawe the
natives, and cover the party on ftioK, who were td get
a fupply of wood and water, which we much wanted.'
While we were ujM>n thia bufinefe, we Obferved the na-
tivcs alTembling from alt parts, all armed, to the amount
of fomc thourands, who formed themfetvea into two
divifionji, as they did the preceding evening, on each
Me the landing place. At intervals a canue came ofT,
at times conducted by one, two or three men, bringing
us cocoa-nuts, &c. for which they did not require anf
thing in return, though we took care they (hould alwaya
have fomething : but their principal intention feemed
to be, to invite us afhore. The old man before men.
tioned. came off to u» feveral times, and the captain
with a view of making him underftand, thar he wanted
to e(labli(h a friendly intereourfe, tuck his weapons
that were in the canoe, and threw them overboard, and
made him a prefent of a piece of cloth. He undcr-
fteod the meaning of this, for we faw him frequently
in cenverfittion with his countnmen, to whom ne
niide our requeft known, going firft to one party, then
to anodier, nor did we afterwards fee him with hia
weapons, or in a warlike manner. Soon after a canoe^
in which were three men, came under our ftem, one of
whom behaved very outrageoufly» bvandUhing his clut^
and ftrikingwith it the Slip's udc 1 at taft he offered
to exchange his weapon for a (bring of beads, and other
trifleit thde we teia down to him by a line, of which he
had no(bottrrotpo(1e(rieo, than he made off, with.i
out delivering his club. Wc were not forry for thi%
as it aflbrded us an opportunity of fliewing the pc«>le
on (hore the effeift of our fire arms. We thererore '
without heiitatiop, complimented this fellow with th^
contents of a fowling puce, loaded with fmall (hor»
and when the others w
mand die whole haibeur, itnd then embs^rkcd wit^ a
party of feament fig>poited l^ the marinct, and towed
to the landing pUce, where we have before obferved
the natives were drawn up in two divifions. The in-
termediate fpace between them was about 40 yards, ii\
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COOK'a SECON D VOYAGE—for making Di/coiien'es In the Soutl Seas & Round the ff^or/J. 1 67
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which were Uili a few jrfanuini, t*o br three roow,
ind a yam. Between thefe and the water, four fimll
ivedi were (hick upri^t iit the Tand, in a line at right
angles to the Oiore, tot whatpiarpofc wtcbuld not learn.
Thejr renuined here for fome dayt. By thefe th^old
tnan ftdod, and two companicMt, whb l^ various ugns
invited us to bknd, but we thought thefe a decoy, and
looked fomethiiv like the tt*p wetekd liken> have
been caught in «t. the laft iilattd. We ntade figns for
}M divifions to retire back, but to thefe they paid not
■the leaft rqasird, their number everv moment wu aug-
iMnted, and, ettqx two or three dd men, not one un-
armed. From all thefe circumftances we concluded
they meant to attack ui u foon u we landed; but this
we wiihed to avoid, as many of them muft have been
killed or wounded, and w^ could not expeft to come
f^ff without fome damage. We thought it therefore
better to frighten them into a more peaceable beha-
viour, and therefore a mufquet was firra over the party
on our right, which for about a minute had the defired
effedl, but they foon returned to their daring behaviour.
The (hip'was then ordered, by fignal, to fire two or
threeereat guns, which prcfcntly difperfcd them. We
immraiately landed, and marlccd out the limits on the
ri|^rand left, by a line. Our old friend, who flood
his grbund, we rewarded ^ith a prefent. Some of the
hitives retuhied, with a more friendly afped. Many
Came without their weapons, but the greatefl part with
them. We made figns thai they ihould lay them down,
and they gave us to underfland, that we mud lay down
burs f\tn. Thus both iidcs flood under arms, and the
prcfcots we made to the old people had little influence
bn their tondu ftand to our arms. Mr. Edge tmbe. one of the
lieurenants who commanded the jarty, fired, and
wounded a man with a fwan-ftiot, after which the
others behaved better, and when our people embarked
they all retired in a peaceable manner. While we were
at dinner an old man came on board, and after havine
examined ftveral pom of the fliip, returned to his
tmnta on Oiow. ^e were now on a tolerable footinir
with fuchof the natives wholived in the neighbourhooJr
who only made their appearance, fo that a fenreant'i
guard was thought fuflicient for the piotcdtion of the
wood and water parties. Some of our people had
left an ax on the beach or iii the woods< which Paowan^
returned to us ; alfo a few othcir articles which had been
loft through negligence; The natives inVited fome of
our people to gb home with them, on condition that
they would (trip themfclves naked as they were; a
proof of their not harbouring a deflgrt Of robbing themi
whatever other they roighf have. On the 8ch, early in
the morning, the launch was (eilt under the protoaioit
of a party of nMrines in artothft boat, to tstke ih wood,
water, and ballaft, when the nsktives Ibemcd ptvtty well
reconciled to us. On the 9th, our people were cm-;
ployed about the fame bufinefs, and Capt. drnVi was
received very courteoufly by the natives, thoi^ armed,
irifomuch that there was no loneer any ocdtfion to mark
out the limits by a tine, feeing they obferved them with-
out this precaution. He prevailed on a young man,
named Wha-a^gou to accompany him on board, but
nothing in the fliip feemed to en^ge his attention.
The gOats, dogs, and cats, he called by the lame namei
which in his language (ignifies hogs. He feemed
more fond of a dog and bitch than of any other ani-
mals, and wc prefentcd him with one of each. He fut
down to dinner with us, but would only jull tafle our
fait pork ; however he eat pretty heartily of yam, and
drank a glafs of wine. Some of this young man's
friends were probably doubtful of his fafcty, and there-
fore follov/ed him ina canbcbut on his fpeakingto them
out of the cabin window, they went on (hore, and foon
rctumed with a cock, fome cocoa-nuts, and a fugar
cane. After dinner he was conduced a(horc loaded
with prefents. Upon landings fome of his friends took
Capt. Cook by the hand, and, as Wc underftood, would
have led him to their habitations, but on the way, they
made a fudden flop, and were unwilling he (hould
proceed. The captain was defired to iit down. Du-
ring this interval fcveral of our geiitlcmen pafTcd us,
at which ihcy expreflld great uneafincfs, and impor-
tuned the captain fo much to order them back, that
he was obliged to comply. Indeed they were not only-
jealous of our going up the country, but even along the
fliorc of the harbour, \^'hi!e we were waiting here, our
friend Paowang brought us a prefent of fruit and roots^
by a party of 20 men, though they might all have
been carried by two ; perhaps this might be done with
the view of making the prefent appear the greatcf; for
one had a bunch of plantains, another a yam, a third a
cocoa nut, &c. The captain paid thefe porters, though
the prefent was in return for one he had made in the
morning. Wha-a-gou and his friends were ftiil for
detaining us, and feemed to wait with impatience for
fomething to give us in return for the dogs, but niglit
approaching, we defired to depart ; and they coftipfied
with our folicitations. We now learnt, by means of
Mr. Forfler's enquiriei, that the proper name of this
ifland is Tanna. The natives alfo told us the names of
other neighbouring ifles. I'hat we touched at laft is
called Erromaneo ; the fmall one which we faw tht
morning we landed here, Immer; the table ifland tb the
eaft, difcovered at the fame time, Erronan, or Footbona :
and one that lies to the S. £. Annattom ; all which
iflands are to be feen from Tanna. It is a little re-
markable, that the natives of this ifland were more
fcrupulous in taking any thing from the ft.ilors, than
thole of any other nation, and never would touch with
their bare hands what was given them, but always r6&
ceived it between green leaves, which they dfterwards
tied up and carried upon the ends of their clubs ; lind if
any of our feamen touched their (kin, they always
rubbed the part with a green leaf. When thefe peo-
ple make a wonder at any thing, they cry Hebow, and
fluke their right-hands. They wear bracelets, tike as
the Indians of Venemous Bay, in which they (lick their
hair pricker, and fikewife their flings, with which they
throw their javelinai;«nd it is aflonifHMig with what
dexterity and force foim ivf them will hit a mark. One
of them, in the prefencc of the firft lieutenant, fliot a
fifli as it fwam along in the fea, at the di(iance of 26
yards, with a bow and .nrrow, which gfli the lieutenant
carried on board with the arrow flicking in his body
it'
as a proof of what he had fccn performed. But not-
withlianding their delicacy and (kill as markfmcn, they
;;avtus toundcrftand that they cat one another; and
one day when the inhabitants about the bay had
marched forth anned, on an expedition, to a didant
part of the ifland, thofe that remained invited us to
feait upon a man whom they had barbiqucd, which
invitation our gentlemen rcfufed with the utmoft dif-
gud. It has &en faid,' that no nation could be can-
nibals, had they other flefh bcfidcs human to eat, or did
not want food ; but we cannot afcribc thefavage cudom
.of thefc people to neceflity, fince the ifland abounds
with plenty of hogs, fowls, vegetables, and fruit.
While fome of our people were employed in fcaiehing
for ballad, they difcovered water illuing from the
crevices of a rock, hot enough to draw tea; which cir-
cumdance led to the dtfcovcry of fome hot fprings, at
the foot of the diff, below high-water mark. In one
place the waters were fo hot, that there was no bearing
the finger in them: in another they were juft hot
enough to bear to plunge the w hole body, but not re-
main long therein. Two of the fliip's company, who
had been troubled with rheumatic complaints, at times,
throughout the voyage, went accompanied with the
furgcon, tooneofthcie fprings, but found the flones fo
hot that they could not Hand upon them, without firll
plunging in fome of their cold garments, to keep the
Iblcs of their feet from touching them j but the effect
of thefc waters was found to be only a temporary re-
lief.
On Wednefday the loth, Mr. Wales, accompanied
by fome of the officers, proceeded for the firrt time
into the country, and met wirh civil treatment from the
natives. They faw in the courfc of this and another
excurfion, fevetal fine plantations of plantains, fugar-
. canes, Sec. and by this time, the natives in our neigh-
bourhood, appeared (b well reconciled to us, that they
expreflcd no marks of difplcafure at our rambling
(hooting parties. But after we had been feveral days
taking in wood and water, they began again to be
troublefome, watching every opportunity to level their
arrows at the guard, and fccmcu to be red rained only
by the fear of their mufqucts from proceeding to ex-
tremity. It is more than probable, however, that an
act of violence on the part of our men, might, by a
wanton ufe of their fire-arms, have caufcd their refent-
ijicnt ; for in the afternoon of this day, a few boys,
having thrown two or three ftones at the wood-cutters,
ihcy were fired at by the petty ofliccrs prefent on duty.
Haying occalion for fome large timber to repair the
decays of the Ihip, orders had been given a few days
before, to cut down a tree of vaft growth; and for the
convenience of getting it aboard, to faw it into three
pieces. This tree fo divided, the natives eyed with
pleafure, not fufpedling our men intended to carry it
off, but to leave it in compliment to them, as it fuited
cxaiitly their ideasof conrfruding juft double the num-
ber of canoes. To the cutting down and fawing the
trees the natives made no oppofition; but when they
faw the failors employed in mlling down the body of
the tree to the water's edge, they could not help look-
ing furly; and one of them, probably more interefted
than the reft, was frequently feen to offer his fpcar
at the labourers, but was refti-ained for fear of the
guard: at length he watched his opportunity, and,
ftarting from behind a bufti, was levelling an arrow at
the commanding officer, w hen he was dilcovered, and
ftiot dead. The ball tore his arm to pieces, and en-
tered > 'S fide. His companions inftantly carried off
the body, and laid it in the wood, where the ftiip's fur-
gcon went to examine it, but found the man totally
deprived of life. Capt. Cook was much difplcafcd
with the condud of thefe officers, and took meaiiires to
prevent a wanton ufe of fire-arms for the future. The
Ihip's company were now permitted to go aftiorc only
by turns, for the prefervation of their health; and the
captain knowing the natives wanted nothing fo much
as an opportunity to revenge the death of their com-
panions, ftriitly enjoined them never to walk alone ;
nor toftray moce than too yards from the guard.
On Thurfday the nth, during the night, the vol-
cano was very troublefome, and threw put great quan-
tities of fire and fmokc, with a moft tremendous noifc »
and fometimes wc faw great ftones thrown into ths
air. In feveral parts of the harbour, places were found
from whence a fulphurous fmell iffucd, and the ground
about thefe was very hot. Mr. Forftcr and his bo-
tanizing party, on one ilde of the harbour, fell in with
our friend Paowang's houfe. Moft of the articles h«
had received from us were feen hanging about the
buflies and trees near hit dwelling. On the 12th, th«
volcano was more furious than ever, and wc were
much molefted with the afhes. Some of our gentle-
men attempted to afcend a hill at fome diftance, wit|i
an intent of obferving the volcano more diftindtly j but
they were obliged to retreat .precipitately, the ground
under them being fo hot, that they might as well have
walked over an oven : the fmell too ot the air was in-
tolerably fulphurous, which was occafioned by a fmoKe
that iffued from the fiflures of the earth; yet in this
fmokc the natives feck a remedy for cutaneous dil^
orders. Mr. Forfter obcfcrving a man holding a child
over the fmoke, had the curiofity to enquire the reafon,
who made him underftand, by (liewing the child's
eruptions, that it was troubled with the itcn. The rain
that fell this day was a mixture of water, fand, and
earth; fo that wc had, properly fpeaking, ftiowcrs of
mire. The natives pretended to be unwilling, that wc
(hould this day go far up the country by ourfclves, and
offered their fcrvices to conduft us to the mouth of the
volcano. Wc readily accepted their offer, but inftead
of {hewing us the way to the place, we found our-
fclves near the harbour before we difcovered the
trick.
On Saturday the 1 3th, Paow ang came on board to
dine with us. We took this opportunity of (hewing
him every part of the ftiip, and a variety of trading
articles, hoping he might fee fomcthing that he liked,
and fo a traflu: be carried on w ith the natives for re-
freftiments, of which what wc had hitherto obtained
were very trifling. But Paowang beheld every thing
with the greateft indifference, except a wooden fand-
box, of which he took fome notice. On the 14th, a
party of us endeavoured to get a nearer view of the
volcana, and took our rout by the way of one of thofe
hot places already mcntioiKd. In the way we dug a
hole, into which was put a thermometer of Fahrenheit's
conftruction. The mercur)- rofc to 100 degrees; but
the inftrumcnt remained in the hole near three mi-
nutes without its rifing or falling. At this place the
earth was a kind of white clay, and had a fulphurou*
fmell. It was foft and moift under the furface, over
which was a thin dry cmft, having upon it fome ful-
phur, and a vitriolic fubftance, talhng like alum. The
place affected moft by the heat, and w here we made
the experiment, was not above eight or ten yards
fquare. Near this was a fig-tree which fcemed to like
its litiiation. We proceeded up the hill through a
country entirely covered with plants, (hrubs, and trees,
infomuch that the bread-fruit, and cocoa-nut trees,
were in a manner choaked up. Here and there we
met with a few people, a houfe or two and fome plan-
tations in different ftfltes ; one appearing ollong ftand-
ing; another lately cleared ; and feveral ju*^ ready lor
planting. The clearing a piece of ground nuift be a
work ot much time and labour, feeing their working
tools, though the fame as thofe ufcd in the Society
Ifles, are inferior to themj neverihelcfs their method
is judicious, and as expeditious as well can be. They
dig under the roots of the large trees, and there bum
the branches, plants, and fiiiail riirubs. In fome parts,
the foil is a rich black mould ; in others a kind of com-
poft formed of decayed vegetables and the aflies of the
volcano. We now came to a plantation where w^c faw
a man at work, who offered to be our guide. We had
not walked far before we came to the junction ot two
roads, in one of which ftood a man with a fling and
ftonc, which he would not lay dov.n till a mufquct was
pointed at him; he fecmed, however, determined to
difputc the road with us, and partly gained his point.
OOK's SECOND V'U V AGE — for making Difcoveries in the South Seas & Round the World. 1 69
point,
for our gwiSe W ui another way>' The other man foU
knredi hallooing, ai we fuppofed, for arcinforccment,
and, indeed, we were prefcntly joined by others of tht
natives, among whom was a young woman with a club
in herhairf. Thtfc people conduded us to the brow
<>f a hill, *nd pointed to a road leading down to the
)utb(mr. ' But riot chboflhg to take this, we returned
ny that we had left, ind here our guide refufed to go
*af fkrther with us. Having afcendcd another ridge.
We Jaw other hills between us and the volcano, which
itemed as far ofFas at our firft fetting out. We therc-
Ibre'refolved to return, and juft as we were about fo
dmnd laid
!ii* arrow acrofs his bow, fo that he apprehended him-
elf in danger ; but this had been frequently done, out
of a bravado, to ihew they were armed, and prepared
equally with ourfelves. Capt. Cook was highly exaf-
perated at this rafcal's rafli condwfl ; and moft of the
people flrd with the utmofl precipitation. As they
ran off, we obferved one man to fall ; and the capuin
went with the fuiveon, who was fcnt for to the man,
whom they fiMind expiring. His left arm was much
(hatttred, and from hence the ball had entered his body
'by the (hort ribs, one of which was broken. What
Tendercd-thissincident the more aifedling was, that the
man who bent the bow was not fliot, but one who Rood
by him. The natives were thrown into fuch conftcr-
nation, that they brought abundance of fruit, which
they laid down at our feet. They all retired when we
returned aboard to dinner, and only a few appeared
in the afternoon, among whom were Paowang, and
Wha-a-gou.
On Saturday, the aoth, the wind was favourable for
vetting out of the harbour ; for during the nieht it
had veered round to the S. E. At four o'clock A. M.
we therefore began to unmoor, and, having weighed
our anchor, put to fea. As we failed we heard a noife,
not unlike plalm filling. It was now too late to en-
ouirc imo the cauic ; probably the natives were per-
forming fome religious aifls. We thought that the ead
point of the harbour was facrcd to relieion, for fome
of our people had attempted to ^ to inis point, and
were prevented by th6 natives. They were always jea-
lous of our proceeding into the country b^ond certain
limits: they might be apprchcnfivc of an invafion, and
that we meant to take their country from them. All
we can fay is, that no part of our condud juflified
fuch a concluiion. We never gave them the Icall mo-
Icltation ; nor did we touch any part of their property,
not even their wood and water, without having fim ob-
tained their confcnt. Even the cocoa-nuu hangiiu;
over the heads of the workmen, were u fafc as thote
in the middle of the ifland. We caught a laige quan-
tity of filh, and were tolerably well fupplicd by the na-
tives with fruit and roots t and (hould ceruiol^ have
obtained more refreihments, had we had any thing on
board that fuited their tafte. Our cloth was of no ufe
to thofc who go naked, and they had not any know-
ledge of the utility of iron. Inough the people of
this ifland, after fi:cling the efiedls of the European fire
arms, were peaceable, thev were not in goieral friendly t
nor were they like the Indians in the Society Iflcs, fond
of iron : they wilhed for fome of the tooli with which
they faw our icamen cut down wood ; but, except an
adte or two, they never attempted to ftcal any thing.
The cdopers Icn their caflu during the night un-
guarded t nor were they under any apprchcnti*ns about
their cloaths, which they fullered to lie cartlefly here
and there while they were at work. Thifc people dif^
covered none of that difpofition to thievery which it
has been faid every Indian inheriu naturally. In their
courfe of trade, they totally difrrgarded beads and
baubles, and feemed to prefer Rotterdam fifli hooks,
and turtle-flicll, to every thing elfe that wu oiEettd
them. They would not permit the failors to have any
communication with their wives ; no.- ^ere they eafily
perfuaded to part with their arms on any account. The
produce of the ifland they freely parted with, not re-
Suiring any thing in return t but on whatever was be-
owed labour in the conflrudion, they fct a high
value.
This ifland of Tanna jproduces abundance of plan-
ains, cocoa-nuts, bread fruit, yams, a kind of potatoe,
a fmit like a n^dbirine, wild figs, fusar-canc, and ai
fruit not unlike an orange, but wliich is never eaten.
The bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, are neither
fo plentiful, nor fo good, as at Ocaheite i but fugar-
canes and yams are of fupcrior quality, and much
laiccr. We faw here a few fouls, and a great number
of nogs, but the latter did not fall to our lot ; and we
did not fee in all our cxcurfions any other domvftic
animals. We met with fome fmall birds, with a muft
beautiful plunuye, which we had never feen before.
Our botanifls found many curious plants and trees ; as
treat a variety as at any iflaiK) v e had viiiicd. The in-
abiuntt appear to rublift chicfljr on the productions of
the land, and ate not much indebted to the fea,
though there are plentv of iifli on the coafl. We never
found any filhing tackle among them, nor faw any one
out a fiflung. except on the Ihoals, or along the liiorea
of the harbour, where they would ftrike with a dart
fuch fifh as came within their reach, and in this art
they were very expert. They were furprizcd at our
method of catching fifh with the feine, and, we be-
lieve were not well plcafed with our fuccefs. The
fmall ifle of Immer was chiefly inhabited by fifhermen,
and the canoes we faw pafs to and fiom the ifle, and the
call point of the harbour, we obferved were fifhing ca-
noes. Thefe were of unequal lizes, and compofed of
feveral pieces of wood clumflly fewcd together. The
joints are covered on the outflde by a thin batten cham-
?;red off at the edges, over which the bandages pafs.
he fail is lattcen, extended to a yard and boom,, and
hoifted to a fliort maft. Some of the large canoes have
two fails, and all of them out-riggers. They are navi-
gated either by paddles or fails.
Thefe people have litte refemblance or affinity to thofe
of the Fwendly Iflands, and thofe of Mallicollo, except
in their hair, which is much like what the people of
the latter ifland have. The colours arc black and brown,
growing to a tolerable length and curly. They part
It into Unall locks, which they cue round with the rind
of a flender plant, down to about an inch of the ends.
Each of thefe locks is fomew hat thicker than the com-
mon whip-cord { and they appear like a parcel of fmall
ftrings hanging down from the crowns of their heads.
Their beards are generally fliort, flrong and bufhy. The
women wcartheir hair cropped, as do the boys, till xhef
approach manhood.
We took fome pains todifcoverhow far their geogra-
phical knowledge extended, and found it not to ex*
ceed the limits of their horizon. To Erronan we maf
afcribe one of the two languages they fpeak, which i#
nearly, if not exadUy, the fame as th; c fpoke at the
Friendly Iflands. It it thercforcfore probable, that by
a long intercourfe with Tanna, and the other neigk*
bouring iflands, each hath learnt the others language
which they fpeak indifcriminately. The other language
which the people 01 Tanna, Erromaiiffo, and Aniutom
fpeak, is properly their own. It ia different from any
we had before met with, and bearv no affinity to that '
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cook's second voyage— for making Z)i«'«*r/w in the SoutbSeas & Round the IVorld. 171
made, and of the middle free. They have a^rfcable
countenances, good features, and are very adti* and
nimble, like the other tropicsj inhabitants. The fe-
males, are put to all laborious works ; and the men
walk unconcerned by their fide, when they are loaded
With heavy burdens, befides a child at the back.
Perhaps the men think, that their carrying their arms,
and defending them, is fufficient. We often faw large
parties of women carrving various kinds of articles, and
a party of men armea with clubs and fpears to defend
them, though now and then we have fecn a man carry
■ buiden at the fame time, but not often. The women
of Tanna are not very beautiful, yet they are cerainlv
handfomc enough for the men, who put ihem to all
kinds of drudgery. Though both men and women arc
dark coloured, they are not black, nor do they bear any
itlWnblance to negroes. They make themfelves
blacker than they rc3ly arc, by painting their faces of
the colour of black-lead. Thcv ufe alto a fort of pig-
ment which is red, and a third fort brown, all thefe,
cfpecially the ftrft, they lay on with a liberal hand, not
only on the face, but on the neck, fhouldets, and brcaft.
The women wear a petticoat nude of leaves, and the
men nothing but a belt and wFa|>per. Bracelets, ear-
ringi, and amulets, are indifcriminately worn by both
fexes. The amulets are made of the green ftone of
Zealand ; the braceleu of fea.(hells or cocoa-nut ; and
the necklaces, chiefly worn by the women, moftly of
feufhells. The valuable ear-rings are made of tor-
toifefhell. Some of our people having got fbme at the
Friendly Iflanda, brought it to a good market here,
where it was nH>re ellecmed than any thing we offered
to falc. Hence we concluded thefe people caught but
few turtle, though one was feen iuft as we got under
fail. Towards the time of our departure, the natives
begfM to enquire after hatchets and large nails ; from
which we concluded, that they had found iron to be
of more value and t than (lone, (hells, or bones, ^
which their tools are made. Their Aone hatchets are
not (haped like an adze, as in the other iflanda, but more
like an ax; and in the helve, which is pretty thick, is
made a hole, into which the (lone is fixed.
If we except the cultivation of the ground, thefe peo-
fdc have few arts worth mentioning. Thev make a
coarfc kind of matting, and cloth of the baric of a tree,
ufed chiefly for belts. The workmanfhip of their
canoes is very clumfy; and their arms come far fhort
of others we had feen. Their weapons arc bows, ar-
rows, (loncs, clubs, fpears, and daru. On the lad they
place mod dependence, and thefe are pointed with three
bearded edges. In throwiiw them, they make ufe
of A becket, that is a piece of ftilf plaited cord about
fix inches long, with an eye at one end, and a knot at
the other. The eye is fixed on the fore finger of the
right-hand, and the other end is hitched round the
dart, where it is nearly on an equipoife. Thw hold
the dart between the thumb and rcnuining nngers,
which fcrve only to give it diredlion, the velocity being
communicated by the becket and fore finger. The
former flies off from the dart the indant its velocity be-
comes greater than that of the hand, but it remains on
the finger ready to be ufed again. They kill both
birds and fifh with darts, and are pretty certain of
hitting die mark, within the compalsofacrown of a
hat, fuppofc the obictfl to be diflant eight or ten yards j
but if twice that didancc, it is chance if they hit a
mark the file of a nwn's body, though they will throw
the weapon 60 or 70 yards t for they always throw with
all their might, let the didancc be what it may. Their
arrows arc made of reeds pointed with hard wood.
Some are bearded : fomenot; and thofc for (hooting
jjirda have two, three, and four points. The done* in
general, are branches of coral rocks, from eight to four-
I*^" j'."'^''" ''"'C' ""<1 from an inch to an mch and a
half dumeter. Thefe are generally kept in their beln.
livery one carries a dub. and befides that, cither d*rts,
or a bow and arrows, but never both. One of our gen-
tlemen on board, made the following remark on the
arnia of thefe people, which we ftiall here infert in his
ownworrs. " I rouft coolcfii, I have often been led to
think the fean which Homer rcprefents his heroes aa
performing with their fpears, a iitdc too much of the
marvellous to be admitted into an heroic poem ■, I mean
when confined within the drait days of Ariftotle. Nay,
even fo great an advocate (or him aa Mr. Pope, ac-
knowledges them to be furprizing. But lincc I have
feen what thefe people can do with their wooden fpears,
and thofe badly pointed, and not of a very hard nk-
ture, I have not the lead exception to any one palHige
in that great poet on this account. But if 1 fee fewer
exceptions, I can find infinitely more beauties in him 1
as he has, I think, fcarcely an aifHon, circumflance, or
defcription of any kind whatever, relating to a fpear,
which I have not feen and recognifed among thefe
people { as the whirling motion, and whidling noife, as
the fpears flyi their quivering motion, as they dick in
the ground ; the warrion mediatii^ their aim, when thev
are going to throw ; and their (baking them intheirhancf,
or bnndi(hing them, as they'advancc to the attack, &c."
As to the religion and government of thefe people^
we are little acquainted with the lad, and to tne fird
are utter drangers. Chiefs they feem to have among
them ; at lead fome were announced to us u fuch, but
they appeared to have very little authority over the
red of the people. Old Grcogy was the only one to
whom we faw a particular refpcdl paid ; but whether
this was owing to his rank or age, we cannot fay. On
many occafions we have feen the old men refpedlcd and
obeyed. Pkowang was fo, yet we never heard him
called chief, nor could we perceive he had any more
power than his neighbours, and we may fay the fame
of every other perfon in our neighbourhood.
The Refolution being the fird (hip that ever entered
this harbour, Capt. Cook named it Port Refolution.
It is fituated on the north fide of the mod cadern point
of the ifland, and about E. N. E. from the volcano, in
latitude 19 deg. 33 min. 35 fee. and half fouth. and in
169 deg. 44 min. 35 fee. cad longitude. It is but a
finall creek, running in S. by W. haif W. three quarters
of a mile, and isabmit half that in breadth. The depth
of water in the harbour is about fix to three fathoms,
the bottom fand and mud. The landing place is ex-
ceeding convenient for taking in wood and water, both
of thelc nece(rary articles-being near the (hore. After
the water had been a few days on board it dunk, but
turned fwect again t and when at the word the tin ma-
chine would, m a few houn, recover a whole ca(k.
We now firctched, with a frefh gale, to the eadward,
in order to have a nearer view of Erronan. Having
paired this ifland at midnight, we tacked, and on Sun-
day the aid, deered S. W. intending to get to the
fouth of Tanna, and nearer Annatom ; for though the
morning was clear, we had made no difcovery of any
iflands to the ead. At tvton, in latitude 20 deg. 33
min. 30 (ec. Port Refolution bore north, 86 deg. wed,
didant about 18 miles: Tanna extended from fouth,
88 deg. W. to N. 64 deg. W. Traiton Head north
58 deg. W. didant 60 miles; the ifland of Erronan,
north, 86 deg. E. didant 1 5 miles ; and Annaiom from
S. half E. to S. half W. didant 30 miles. At two
o'clock P. M. feeing no more land ahead of us. we
bore up round the S. E. end of Tanna, and ran along
the fouth coad at one league from (hore. It fecmqd
to be a bold one unguarded by rocks, and the country
made a fine apjpearance, full as fertile as that in the
vicinity of the harbour. At fix o'clock we faw over
the wed end of Tanna, in the diredlion of north i#
deg. W. the high land of Erromango. We pafTed the
iflwid at eight, and (hnied our couife for Sandwich Ifle,
in order to conmlete our obfervations on that, and of
the ifles ro the N. W. At four o'clock P. M. we ap-
proached the S. £. end. We found it to trend in the
direAion of W. N. W. In the middle of this range,
very near the fhore, we difcovered three or four fmall
ifles, behind which appeared a fafe anchorage. We
continued our run along the coad to its wcuern ex-
tremity and then (leered N. N. W. from the S. £. end
ofMallicolIo.
On the a3d, we came in fightof the iflandi P^-oom,
Apee, and Ambrym. The fird of thefe S4>peafed now
t»
' t ir
'4
i
'1
li,' 11
W
\\
172
Capt. C O O K'l VOYAGES COMPLETE.
^i^'
to Ik; two ifland*. Wc continued ourcourfc to within
half a Icacue of Mailicollo, on the S. W. iiiie, which
wc ranpcdat chat diHancc. The direction of the land,
from the S. E. point is W. by S. for about fix league*,
and then N. W . by W. for three league*, terminating
in a high point or head land, in latitude 16 dc^. 39
min. to vinich the name was given of S, W. Cape.
The coaft \tt low, indented with creeks, and pro)e
the return of the boats wc were informed by Mr.
Cooper and others, that they had landed at the head
pf the bay, near a fine ftream of freth water. W«
ftccrcd down the bay, being not in want of any things
and the w ind kaving thifted to S. S. E. Throughout the
fore part of the ni^t, on the weft fide of the more, the
country was illupunatcd with firca, from the fea (hore
to.,th<) fummit of the Qiounuitii. ■ On Saturday the
37th, at dayi-break, we found ourtelves two thirds
dawn the bay, and at noon wc were the length of the
N. W. point, which bore N. 83. deg. W. diftant Ave
miles |. and by obfervation our latitude was 14 deg. 39
min. ,30 fee. . Some of our gentlemen were doubtful of
this being the bay of Sc. Philip and St, Jago, becaufe no
place anlwercd (o the pon of^ Vera Cruz : but the cap-
tain gave very good realbns for a contrary opinion. A
port . is a very vague term, like many others in geo-
graphy ; and what Quiro* calls the port of Vera Cnu^
might be the whole haven or harbour, or the anchorage
at^c head of the bay, which in fomc place* may ex.>
tend farther off than where our boats landed. The
river was probably one of thofe mentioned by Quiros*
and, if we were not deceived, we faw the other.
The bay is every where free from danger, and of an
unfathomable depth, except near the thores, which are
for the moft part low. It hath fixty miies fea coaft ;
eighteen on uic eaft fide, which lies in the dircdlion of
S. half W. and N. half E, fix at the head ; and thirty-
fix on the weft fide, the diredion of which is S. by E.
and N. by W. from the head down to two thirds of itf
length, and then N. W. by N. to the N. W. point,
■The two poinu which form the entrance of the bay,
arc in the direction of S. 53 deg. E. and N. 53 deg.
W. diflant from each other thirty miles. The bay, as
well as the flat land at the head of it, is bounded by a
ridge of hills : one to the weft is very high, and ex-
tends the whole length of the ifland. Upon this ap-r
ucarcd a luxuriant vcgeution wherever the eye turned.
Kioh plantations adorned the fides of the hills, foreft*
: narcl their towered heads; and every vajley was wa-
teiei with a running ftream » but of all the produc-
itiqns of nature the cocoa-nut trees were the mgft con-'
;fpicuws. Capt. CooK named the eaft point of the
'bay C^pe Quiros, in memory of it* firft difcovercr. It
His ip lat. i4cleg. 56 rain. S. mUfki^l deg. 13 min. E.
longi-
^E-^fur making Di/etveriet in the South Seat 2c Round the IVorid. 1 7 3
longitude. The N. W. point he nanwd Cipe Cum-
berUnd, in honour of his royal highndb the duke. This
lici in latitude of t4deg. 38 min. 45 fee. S. "nd "i
longitude 166 dcg. 40 min. 30 fee. E. It ii the N. W.
extremity of this Archipelago. On the 3 »th, and 29th,
we toolc every opportunity, when the horizon wa» clear,
to look out for more land, hut none was feen : it is pro-
bable that there is none nearer than Queen Charlotte's
Ifland, difcovcred by Capt. Carteret, about 90 leagues
N. N. W. from Cape Cumberland, and the Captam
thought this to be the fame with Quiros's Santa Cruz.
On Tucfday the 30th, we plyed up the eoall with a
frefh breeze.
On Wcdncfday the 31ft, we weathered the S. W.
point of the idand. The coaft which trends eaft,
northerly, is low, and feemcd to form fome creeks or
coves I and as we sot farther in:o the palTage, we per-
ceived feme fmall low ifles lying along it, which fccmrd
to extend behind St. Bartholomew Ifland. Having
now explored the whole Archipelago, the fcafon of the
year made it neccflary to return to the fouth; but we
had yet romc t at
which m\ place the Captain intended to touch, in order
to recruit our ftock of wood and water for another
fouthcrn courfe. To this end, at five o'clock P. M. we
tacked, and hauled to the fouthward, with a frcfli gale
at S. E. At this time the S. W. point of the ifland
Ticrradel Efpirltu Santo, the only remains of Quiros's
continent, bore north 82 deg. W. which Capt. Cook
nanKd Cape Lifl^urne. It lies in latitude 15 dig. 40
min. and in 16 j dcg. 59 min. eaU longitude. It may
perhaps be plcafing to our readers to give a funmiary
and more accurate view of the iflands in this Archi-
pelago, as the foregoing account, being given journal-
« ifc, may not be thought perfpicuous, or plain enough,
either as to lituation or dclcription.
The iflands which compofc this Archipelago are not
eafily numbered. Wc counted upwards of leventy in
fight at one time; and they feem to be inhabited by
people of very diirtrciit natures and complexions.
Some wc faw were woolly headed, and of the African
race; others were of a copper colour, not unlike the
New Zcalandcrt ; fome were of the mulatto colour, and
not a few like the natives of Rotterdam, of a brownilh
black, with long hair and (horn beards. The high
notions, however, that were entertained of the vaft
riches of thcfc iflands, of their abounding in pearls,
filver ore, and precious (tones, do not feem well founded,
neither docs the illand of Manicola anfwer by any
means, the pompous defcription given of it by the
Spanifli writers, who found their report on the relation
of an Indian chief, and on that of a captive, whom
Quiros feizcd, and carried to Mexico. From the
former Quiros learned, that to the N. W. of his country
(Taumaco) there were more than 60 iflands, and a large
country, which he called Manicola; that, to explain
which were fmall, he made circles, and pointed to the
fca with his finger, and made figns that it furrounded
the land ;' and for the larger he made greater circles, and
the fanrie figns j and for that large country he opened
both his arms, without joining them again, thereby in-
timating, that it extended without end ; and by ligns
he (hewed which people were whites, negroes, Indians,
and mulattoes. and which were mixed ; that in fome
iflands they eat human fle(h ; and for this he made figns
by biting his arm, (hewing clearly thereby his abhor-
rence ofTuch people. He alfo gave them to underftand,
mt in the great country, there were cows or buflaloes.
From the cajitive Quiros learnt, that in fome of thofc
iflands. there were pearls as large as fmall pebbles , that
the pelFIs were white and (hining; and that when
they looked at them againft the fun„the (hining luftre
dazzled their eyes; that, at Ave days of their
failing from a country which he named, lay that great
^""'"'y Manicola inhabited by many people, dun-
aoloured, and mulattoes, who lived in large towns ; that
th» country was high and mounuinous, with many
laigjrivcrs ; that he. with many when, had gone to 11
{none of their embarkations, in queft of the trunk of «
great tree, of the many that arc in it, to nuke a parla-
gua I and that he (aw there a port larger, and the
entrance narrower, than that of^ Sr. Philip and St.
Jago, and that the bottom was fand, and the Ihore
(hingic: be added, that the inhabitant:, had warlike
inflrunients pointed with lilver. This captive, after he
had learnt the Spanifli tongue, conHrmccl what he had
faid of the Great Country, and what the chief had faid
of the many iflands, and of the ditfcrent nations with
which they were peopled ; fome lufty, having their
bodies pundtuatedi others not fo, of various colouis.
long hair, red, black, curled and woolly. And being
(hewn fome (tones impregnated with filver, he faid, in
the great country he had feen fuch kind of ftones, and
likcwifc at fuamaco, where the natives ufed fome to
punduate themfelves, and others for ornament. From
thefc intimations, feveral Navig
24 miles. The N. W. end is 16 miles broad 1 and
nearer the middle one third of that breadth. Thefc
a X unequal
m
11
•ft.
uneqtmt incafurcmcnti, particularly iMsr fh* CCMre, aM
caiilcil by a wiilc and pretty deep buy, o» the S. W.
lidr. It uc iiiiiy tiirni a iiidgnivnt ol the whole of this
ifland fnini what uu law of it, wc mull cotKludc it is
very fertile arul jxipulous. The hills arc in the cenccr
of the iiland, from which 'he land dcfccndt, with ai>
eafv (lope to thtr fca coall, w here it is rather low.
IV. St. Bartholomew, Ikuated bctwn n the S. E. end
of iiorra del F.fpiiitu Santo, and the north end of Mal-
lirollo I the diltancc bctMcen which latter iiland and
St. Bartholomew is eight miles. The middle o( it
is in latitude t c de^. 4S min. Between this iiland and
that of Mallicotlo, is the piilHigc through which M. dc
Bougainville went ; whole dclcripttons have very little
pretcnfions to accuracy,
V. The Ide of L.cpcrs is fituated between Efpiritu
Santo and Aurora, being dillant from the former eight
leagues, and from the latter thrco. It lies nearly under
the lame meridian as the S. b. em) ofMallicoUo, in
fatitudc 15 deg. 22 nun. Its figure approaches iKarcIl
to an oval; and it i» near 60 miles in circumference.
\Vc determined its boinklsbv feveral bearings; but the
lines of the fliorc were tracea out by infpedtion, except
the N. E. part, where there is an anchorage half a mile
from the land. We muft here obfervc, that, Aurora,
VVhitfuirtidc, Ambrym, Paoom, and its neighbours
Apec, Three-hills, and Sandwich Illands, lie all under
the fame meridian of 167 deg. 29 inin. E. extending
from the latitude of 1 4 dcg. 5 1 min. 30 fee, to 1 7 deg.
y} min. ;jofec.
VI. .\urora Iiland lies N. by W. and S. by E. in
which direolion it is j 3 miles in length ; but in breadth,
we think, it fcarccly exceeds fcven miles, except where
the natives have their plantations, its furfacc is hilly,
and every where covered with wooii.
VII. Whitfuntide Iiland, one league and a half to
the fouth of Aurora, of which it is the fame length,
but fomcwhat broader; and lies in the diredion of
north and fouth. Except fuch parts that fecmcd to be
cultivated, and which arc pretty numerous, it appeared
conliderably high, and covered with wood.
VIII. Ambrym, from the north lidc to the fouth end
of Whitfuntide Ifland, is two leagues and an half. In
ciiciimfcrencc this ifland is about 17 leagues. The
ihorc is rather low, and the land rifes with an unequal
afccnt to a high mountain. Wc judged it to be well
inhabited from the quantity of fniokc which we pcr-
reivcd to afccnd out of the woods, in fuch parts of the
ifluid as paired under ourobfcrvation; for the whole of
it "c did not fee.
IX. Paoom, of this aixl its neighbourhood wefaw but
little, and therefore can only fay of this ifland, that it
(oars up to a great height in the form of a hay-cock.
I hf extent of this and the adjoining iflc (if they are two)
Jii not exceed three or four Icngucs, in any dircc-
lion i tor the diftanc9 between Ambrym and Apec is
ftaaely live leagues, and they are lituatcd in this fpace,
and cad from Port Sandwich, didant about eight
leagues.
X. Apec. The dircdion of this ifland is about
24 miles N. W. and S. E. and it is not Icfs than 60
miles in circumference. It has a hilly furface, rifing to
« conlidcrabic height, and is diverfificd with woods
and la« ns : we fpeak here only of the weft and fouth
parts, for the others wc did not fee.
XI. Shepherd's Ifles, which are a duller of fmall
ones, of dirtercnt dimenfions, in the diredlion of S. E.
and extending oft' from the S. E. point of Apce, about
five leagues.
XII. Three-hills. This ifland lies four leagues fouth
from the coall of Apce, and is diftant 17 leagues, S.
li. half S. from Port Sandwich. A reef of rocks, on
which the fea continually bLats, lies W. by N. five miles
from the weft point.
XIII. Sandwich Ifland is fituated nine leagues, in
the diredUon of fouth from Three-hills. To the eaft
and well of which line arc,
XIV. Two-hills Ifland.
XV. The Monument.
which
XtI. MoilMHt IntHdli
XVII. ri tiwlii l wrt M ifc' V ■
XVIII. TWO orfcw* f:t»« ilkt^ ,
Hinchinbrook and Sandwich Ifland, to which thcyari
connci'led by breakert. Sandwich Illond it 7J miles
in circumference, and its greatcft extent ii 30 miles*
It r.es in the dircdion of N. W. by W. and S. E. by K.
We viewed the N. W. coall of this ifland only at a dif-
tance. Fmm the fouth end of Mallicollo, to the N. W.
end of S,-indw ich Iflc, the dillancc, in the direction of
S. S. E. i» 32 league*.
XIX. Erramang!i> lies in the fame diredlioni and it
fltuated 1 8 leagues from Sandwich Ifland. It is about
75 miles in circumference. The middle of it is in la-
titude 18 dcg. 54 mm. longitude 169 deg. 19 min. E.
From the dillance wc were off when wc hrft faw it, it
apr«ared of a good height.
XX. Tanna. This iiland is fituated fix leagues from
the fouth fide of Erromango, extending S. E. oy S, and
N. W. by N, It is aoout 24 miles long in that direc-
tion, and every where about nine or twelve milca
broad.
XXI. Annatom. This is the fouthcrnmoft iflandi
and lies in latitude 20 deg. 3 min. longitude 170 dcg.
4 min. and 1 2 leagues from Port Kefolution, fouth 30
dcg. E. Its furtace is hilly, and of a tolerable height »
more V.C cannot fay of it.
XXII. Iinmcr, which is in the dircdlion of N. by
E. halfE. four leagues from Port Kefolution in Tanna; .
and,
XXIII. Erronan.orFootoona.cafl, lies in the fame
direction, diftant 1 1 leagues. This ifland is the moft
(■allern of all the Hebrides, and appeared to be more
than live leagues in circumference. It is high, and on
the toj) rtat. A fmall peak, fecmingly disjoined froiTV
the iflc, though we thought it was connci^tcd by low
land, lies on the N. E. fide. This is an accurate def-
cription of the principal illands in the Archipelago,
to which our commander gave the name of the
Hebrides; but, as wc have before obfervcd, there arc
many others of lelTcr note, of which wc had only a
tranlient view, and therefore cannot pretend todef-
cfibc.
To this account, in order to render it complete, we
fliall annex the lunar obfervations, made by our aftro-
nomcr, Mr. Wales, for afcertaining the longitude of
thcfc iflands, concerning which Capt. Cook obfcrves,
" That each fet of obfervations confifting of between fix
and ten obfcrved diftanccs of the fun and moon, ormooit
and rtars,the wholenumberamounts to feveral hundreds »
and thcfe, by means of the watch, have been reduced to
alt the iflands; fo ch.it the longitude of each is as well
determined as that of the two ports undermentioned,
namely. Sandwich and Kefolution. To prove this we
need only obfervc, that the longitude of the two ports,
as pointed out by the watch and by the obfervations, did
not diflxrr two miles. This fticws likewifc, what degree
of accuracy thcfc obfervations are capable of, when mul-
tiplied to a confiderable number, made with different
inftruments, and with the fun and ftars, or both fides
of the moon. By this laft method, the errors which mav
be either in the inftruments or lunar tables, deftroy each
other, as alfo thofe that may arifc from the obfervt*
himfelf ; for fome are more critical, and cloferobfervers
than others. If we confidcr the number of obferva-
tions that may be obtained in the courfe of a month,
(fiippofing the weather to be favourable) we fliall per-
haps find this method of afcertaining the longitude , ''t. rr',:
^Mi* <: -'i^i;-
•H**
•■■■ll■\^ .
///•
,^tN^::
r ;■
:^>
f-Kv
m^
Af,
liV.
%
!Hl|
I
M
COOK'i SECOND V' 3.1" |
i ditto, at 168 a 37 V
ao dittos 167 5a $7
M:an ofthcfe meani 167 57 23 |E.Li>iig.
IL PORT RESOLUTION.
Meanof aofetiofobrerv. before 169' 37' 35"
5 ditto, at 169 4> 48
ao ditto, after
Mean of thefe nteaiu
169 47 aa;
"69 4+ 3S
»"<«aai
>-M»':«i
CHAP. VII.
VfW OtteJoxi* iijcavrred — Ificidtnts — TJr nnmry ifferihfi — An accmtnt of Ibt cuflmt, mmmeti, m4 arts ef ibf nalivfl
— Olfjervaiions m tbt eoitjl and/ome lew iJlanJs — R/markable iitcifUms whilf exploring lbe/e—7'be Ref»lulieH it ttliffd le
itpart fmn New Caledonij — This, in Qtpt. Ook's opinim, it the largeft ijknd in the ^mth Pacific Ocean, except S,-cv
Zealand — Remarks upon it — Cmtinues her voyage to New Zealand — Okfervalions refpelltng the di/cwery (/Norfolk
JJlaiid — Sbt! arrivtt at H^ueen Charlotte's Sound— An account of incidents while the pip lay there.
ON September the ill, being Thurfday, we wrre
out of tight of land, and no more wa.i to be fccn.
We continued our courfe to the S. W. and on the 3d
at five o'clock, fotind ourfelvei in 19 dcg. 49 niir and
in 165 deg. E. longitude. On the 4th, at eight or 'Kk
A. M. wedifcovcrcdland, which at noon extended loin
S. S E. to W, by S. diftant Six leagues. At five F, M.
wc were (Ix leagues oft", »»hen we were flopped by a calm.
At thia time the land extended from S. h. by S to W.
by N. round by the S. W. but as fomc openings wne
fccn in the weft, we could not determine whether it was
one conncdled land, or a clufter of I (lands. The road
to the S. E. feemcd to terminate to the S. E. in a high
promontory, which waa named Cape Colnet, after one
of our midlhlpmen, who firfl dilcovcrcd this land.
Wc faw two or three canoes under fail, and wc thought
thev had come off" to us, but thev ftruck their faiU a
little before fun fet, and wc faw them no more. On
the 5th, wcobferved the coal extended to the S. E. of
Cape Colnett. and round by the S. W. to N. W. by
W. Wc bore down to N. W. and came before an
opening, that had the appearance of a good channel.
we dcfired to enter it, in order to have an opportunity
of obferving an cclipfc of the fun, which was foon to
happen. Wc therefore fcnt out two armed boats to
round the channel ; and at the fame time we faw i a
laisc failing canoes near us. All the morning we had
obicrved them in motion, and coming off" from dif-
fcrent parts j but fomc were lying on the reef, fifliing as
we imagined. When we hoifted out our boats tncy
were pretty near us; but upon feeing this, t'-'-v return-
ed, and our boats followed them. Wc now - , '■ con-
vinced, that what wc had taken for openii ^ in the
coaft was low land, all conncded, except the wcftern
extremity, which, as wc afterwards learnt, was an
lOand, called Balabca. The boats havin 7 made a flg-
nal for a channel, wc flood in witls j/e (hip. The
commanding officer of the bo»u - .>rted, that there
was good anchorage, and that iho natives were very
civil and obliging. He gave them fomc medals, and
in return, they prcfente^ him with fomc fifh. Having
aot within the reef, wc hauled up S. half E. forafmafl
low fandy ifle, lying under the (hore, being foUowcd by
all the canoes. We proceeded up the b.iy more than
two mUen, and at length anchored in five fathoms
water, the bottom a fine fand mixed with mud, and wc
were well (heltered from the wind and fca. At thia
time the low bady ifle bore E. by S. diftant three
quarters of a mile, and from the Ihorc of the main we
were one niile. The ifland of Balabca bote N. W. by
JN. and the channel through which wccame north,
diftant four miles. A great number of the natives fur-
rounded us before we had well got to anchor, in 16 or
1 8 can«vs, without any fort of weapons, and we pre-
vailed upon nebont to come near enough to receive
fomc nrcfenf In return, they tied two filh to the
rope, tnat flu k intolerably. An intercourfe being thua
opened by mutual exchanges, two of the natives ven-'
tured cii board the fliip, and prefcntly after Ihr was
6lled <' 'hthcm. Some dined with us, but they would
not cai our fait beef, po''k, or peafe foup: we happened
to \ 'c fomc y? ■ s left >ich they were very fond of.
Thcfc they call j Oi)bee, a name not unlike Oofce by
which they nrc •- lied at moft of the illands, except
Malllcollui .v:rthelrfs we found thefe people fpoke
a langiiige 10 which wc ere entire ftrangers. They
W' .1.. i' ite naked, exccp . ^ belt and wrapper, which
t irvui (^ as the inhabitannot the other iflands. They
l.ia no knowledge of our dogs, cats, .nd goats, &c. not
having even a name for them; bu' ' cwcd a re-
markable attachment to pieces of red .loth and fpikc
nails After dinner-time, a party of us went alhorc
with two armed boats, and landed amid (I a great num-
ber of people, who were induced by curiofitv alone to
fe .'s, for they had not fo much as a ftick in their
hands, .ind received us with great courtefy. I'hey ex-
prclfed a natural furprizc at feeing nwn and things fo
new to them as we were. Prcfents were made to fuch,
as a man, who had attached hiiiifelf to Capt. Cook,
pointed out t but he would not f\sffcr the captain to
givQ the women, who ftood behind, any brads or mck
dais. We faw a chief whofe name wai Teabooma, wIk>
called for filence foon after wc landed. Every pcrfon
inftantly obeyed him. and liftened with extraordinary
attention. When he had fini(hcd his harangue, ano-
ther fpoke, who was no Icfs rcfpe^fully attended to.
Their fpecchrs were compofed of ihort fentenccs. We
thought ourfclves to be the fubjed of them, though we
could not underfhind them. Having by figns enquired
for frcfti water, fomc pointed to the caft, others to the
weft; but our friend undertook to conduA us to it, and
for that purpofc embarked with us. The ground we
pafled was beautifully cultivated, laid out in feveral
plantations, and well watered. Wc rowed near two
miles to the caft, where we obferved the (hore to b&
moftly covered with mangroves. We entered among
thefe by a narrow creek or river, which brought us to
a little ftraggling village where we were (hewn frcih
water. Near this fpot the land was richly adorned with
f>lantations of fugar-canes, yams, &C. and watered with
ittfe rills, conduced by art from the ma * ' ^nga,
whofe fourcc was in the hills. Wc faw fever ».oa-
nut trees which had not much fruit on them, aiiu heard
the crowing of cocks, but faw none. Some roots were
baking
m
I ■it ■
t: . ii, I
!^
!• /
-I J
bakiitc on a fire, in an eanhcn.jar, which would hold
fix gallons, and we did not doubt, but that this was of
their own manufadure. Mr. Forfter Ihot a duck as it
flew over our heads, and explained to the captain's
friend how it was killed. He defircd ^o have the duck,
knd informed his country-men in what manner it was
Ihot. The tide not permitting us to Oay longer in the
creek, wc took leave of thcfe amicable people, from
whom we had nothing to expedl but good nature, and
the privilege of vifitinc their country without molcfta-
tion, as it was cafy to lee thcfc were all they cotild be-
llow. Though this did not fatisfy our demands, it
gave us much cafe and fatisfadion, for they certainly
rccellcd all the natives wc had hitherto met with in
friendly civility,
On'Iucfday, the 6th, in the morning, hundreds of
the natives came to vilii us: fome ("warn, and others
came in canoes. Hefore ten o'clock our decks, and other
parts of the (hip, were quite full of them. The cap-
tain's friend brought fome fruit and a few roots : the
reft had with them only their clubs and darts, wliith
they exchanged readily for nails, piccw of cloth, and
, and Mr. CIcrke. the lati-
tude of the ifle, at the place of obfervation, was found
to be 20 deg. 17 min. 39 fee. S. 'I'he longitude by the
diftance of the fun and moon, and moon and ftars,
48 fets, 164 deg, 41 min. 21 fee. E. I'he fame by
the watch 163 deg. 58 min. Mr. Wales meafured the
quantity edipfed by Hadley's quadrant, a method ne-
ver before thought of. Thecaptain was of opinion,
that it anfwcrs the purpofc of a micrometer to a great
degree of certainty : if fo, it is a great addition to the
ufe of this valuable inftrument. In the evening we vi-
fited the watering place, which was a fine ftrcam, at
the head of a fmall creek. The calks were conveyed
by a fmall boat down the creek to the beach, over which |
they were rolled, and then put into the launch. The
boat could enter the creek only at high water. Near
this watering place was plenty of excellent uood for
fuel, an article we did not at prefent want. In the
evening of this day, about feven o'clock, died Simon
Monk, our butcher. His death was occalioned by a
fall down the fore hatchway, the preceding night. We
could not but lament "the lots of fo ufeful a hand, ef-
pccially as he was well refpcded and much cftcemed
on board the (hip.
On Wednefday, the 7th, wc made a party to take a
view of the country. VVhcn we had landed, two of
the natives undertook to be our guides. We afcendcd
the hills by a pretty good path ; and in the way met fe-
veral people, who accompanied us, fo that in a fliort
time our train became numerous. From the fummit
of one of the hills wc faw the fea in two places, v hereby
we could detcnninc the breadth of this country, » hicn
docs not exceed thirty miles. A large valley lay be-
tween the ridge wc were lipon, and the advanced hills,
through which glided a terpentine river, and on the
fides of the hills were feveraf ftracgling villages. The
valley appeared rather romantic, by the villages, inter.
fpcrfcd with woods, winding llreams, and beautiful
planationg, which much improved the fcenc. The
other parts of the ifland were moftly rocky and barren.
The uttle foil that is upon the mountains and high
places is burnt up by the fun ; yet it ,is coated with
8
coarfe grafs and plants, and here and there trees- a.n(l
ftuubt. There is a great limilitudc between this ifftun-
try and New Holland, under the fame parallel qthti-
tude, obvious to every one who had feen both places.
Wc returned by a different road to that wc came jiy .^nd
palled through fome of the planutions in the plains,
which were laid out with great judgment, and appeafeU
to be well cultivated. All the nations in thcfc law «-
emit their land by letting it lay in fallow, but th^fcem
not to have any idea of manuring it, except ^i^sing
fire to the grafs with which it u ovcr-nin. mving
fmiflicd our excurfion by noon, we returned oni^pArd
to dinner, with one of our guides with us, whofei^tcnr
tion and fidelity were rewarded ut a very- trifl|ng|ex.
pence. In the afternoon, the captain's clerk,. being
aftiore, purchafed a filh which one of the natiurt had
ftmck. It had a Urge, long, ugly head, and bort fome
refcmblance to the fun filh. It was ordered for/
as wc had no fufpicion of its being poifonous. |t,
dcntially, the time the draughtfman took uptf
traying this filh, made it too late for us to have itf
but the captain, and the two McfTrs. Forfters 6
the liver and row ; and in the middle of the ni|M
found themfclvcs feized with a weakneli and^
which affeded their whole frame. The captaiji
mort loft his fenfe of feeling, -not being able td
guilli between light and heavy bodies ; a quart (
feather feemcd the fame in his hand. An emci ,
after that afweat, were taken by thefegcntlcmenjiihich
proved an efficacious remedy. When they rofe l^ the
morning, they found one of the pigs dead, who had
eaten the entrails ; and when the natives c.infc on
board, and faw the fifli hang up, they cxprejrcd their
abhorrence, fignifving it was not wholefome icod.
It is a little remarkable they did not do this whetwiic
filh was to be fold, nor after it was purchafed. c3n the
8th in the afternoon, Teabooim, the chief, brought a
prefent to the captain, coiififting of a few yams, anc}
fugar canes. In return for which, among other arti-
cles, a dog and bitch was fent him, nearly full grown.
The dog was red and white, but the bitch was the co-
IcMr of an Englilh fox. This was done with the view
of flocking the country with this fpecies of animals.
It was fome time before Teabooma could believe the
prefent was intended for him ; but when he was con-
vinced of this, he lent them immediately away, and
fcemed loll in exctfs of Joy. On the 9th, lieutenanc
Pickerfgill and Mr. Gilbert were dilpatchcd in the
launch and cutter to explore the coaft to the well,
which could not be fo well cfTedlcd by the fliip, on
account of the reefs. A party of men was alfo fent
aftiore to cut brooms ; but Capt. Cook and Meflrs.
Forfters were confined aboard, though much better.
On the I oth, Mr. Forfter was fo well recovered as to
go into the country in fearch of plants. On Sunday,
the nth, in thcjevening, the boats returned, and we
were informed by the commanding officers, that hav»
ing reached an elevation the morning they had fet out,
they had from thence a view of {he coall j and both
Mr. Gilbert and Mr. Pickerfgill were of opinion, that
there was no paflagc for the (hip to the weft. From
this place, accompanied by two of the natives, they
went to Balabed. They were received by Teabi, the
chief of the ifland, ana the people w ho came in great
numbers to fee them, with ftrong intinutions of friend-
fliip. Our people, that they might not be crowded,
drew a line between them and the natives, whouadcr-
ftood and complied with the rcftric'lion. One of thcfc
had a few cocoa-nuts, which a failor would have bought,
but the man being unwilling to part with them, walked
off, and, being lollowed by the failor, he fat down on
the fand, made a circle round him, as he had fccn our
people do, and fignified that the other was not to
come within it, and the injundion was ftridly ob-
ferved. This excurfion to Balabca was rather a fruit-
lefs one; for they did not reach the ifle till near fun-
fet, and left It again before fun-rifc, the next morning ;
and the two following days were fpent in getting up
to the (hip. In going down to the iOe, they faw a
great numbw of tuiUci, but could not (Irikc any. jche
■ wind
COOK'S SECOND VO YAOE-kfor mMngDt/coVeries irt the SdUtiSeas & Round the frar/J, i jj
wind and fca being rather tempeftubuj. The cutter
fprung a leak, and fuddenly filled with water, fo that
tney were obliged to throw fcveral things over bbard,
to prevent her being loft, and by lightening her, to flop
the leak. From a fUhing canoe they njet, they got as
much (ilh as they could eat. , ,
On Monday, the i ath; early iii the morning, the
carpenter was ordered to repair the cutter. The cap-
tain being dcfirout of ftockirig this country with hi^s
as well as dogs, the fontier being more ufcful of the
two, he took with them in the boat a yoiing bt»r and
fow, and went up the mangrove creek in fearch of his
friend, the chief, in order to give them to him. We
were informed by the natives, that he lived at foinc di-
ftance, but they would fend for him: but he not
cpming ii foon as we expedled, Capt. Cook refolved to
give them to the firft man of confcquence he might
meet with. In confcquence of this determination, tney
were offered to a grave old nnan, who (hook his head,
and made figns for us to take them into the boat again.
On our refufing to comply, they fcemed to hold a con-
fultation what was to be donb. After this, our guide
offered to condu one tenth of^an inch from each other.
No. ii.
The dthcf ehds, that are ^ little pointed, fpl-ead out
like the fticks of a fan. Some havfe thcii- hair tied up
in clubs, and others, ai. ^cl| as the wdmen, wear it
cropped ftiort. They alfo wear their beards cropped
in the fame manner. I'hcy arc much fubjeifl to fwelled
and ulcerated legs, particularly the hicn, .as olfo to a
fwelling of the fcrotum: When they go cat in their ca>
noes, and when unemployed, they weai- a cbarfe kind
of matting, of their own manufadurc, and the men
of note have a ftiflf, cylindrical black cap^ which ap-*
pearcd to be a capital ornament, and mark of diftinc-
tion among them. The drefs of their wbmcn is a ftiort
petticoat, made of the leaves of the plantain treci
faftened by a coi-d round their waifts. I'his is at leaft
fix inches thick^ but not one longer than neceflary for
the ufe defigned. The outer filaments are dyed blacky
and the right fide is ornamented with pearl Oyfter-
ftiells. Both fexes are adorned with car-rings, ncck^
laces, amulets, and brncelets, made of large fliells,
which arc placed above the elbow. Various parts of
their bodies are puniftured. They appear to be 4
race between the natives of Tanna, and thofe of the
Friendly Idandlt and they bear fome refemblance to
thofe ot New Zealand; their language, in fome re-
fpedts, appears to be collcded from thefe three coun-
tries. In honefty and a friendly difpofition, they cer-
tainly exoel all others. However, notwithftanding
this, they inuft fometimes be engaged in war. other-
wife they would not be fo well provided as they jtrc.with
weapons of various forts. Their clubs are near thrctf
feet in length, and varioUfly formed, fome with heads
like an hawk, others with round heads. They arc all
made very neatly. Their darts and fpears are orna-
mented with carvings; They take (bme paint to ftiap*
the ftoiies for their flings^ which are in the form of an
e|^. only pointed alike at both ends. In ftriking filh
with a dart, they are very dexterous, which we believe
is the only method they have of catching them, for We
faw neither hooks nor lihcs in their polfeflion. Their
tools arc much the fame as in the other iflands. They -
build their houfes circular, rcfembling a bee-hive, and
full as clofe and warm ; into which they enter by a
fouare opening, juft big enough to admit a man upon
his knees. Tne roof is lofty and brought to a point at
top ; the fide walls are five feet and a hiilf high t botik
roof and fides are covered with thatch, made of coarA
long grafs. On the top of moft of theil- dwellings is »
wowlen poft, which is generally ornamented either with
carving, or ftiells. or both. Within are platforms for
the conveniency of laying any thing on. and in fome
houfes are two floors, one above the other. On the
floors dry grafs is laid, and mau are fpread for the prin^*
cipal people to fleep, or fit on. In moft of them \\c
found a hre burning, and in fome two fire places, buc
they arc very fmoaky and hot, having no chimney, nor
vent for thefmoak but the door ; anatmofphere which
to Europeans muft be very difagreeable, and as to our-
felves we could fcarcely endure it a moment ; but with
refpcdl to the lutivcs, the fmokc is a ncceflary evil, as
it prevents the mufquitoes from molefting them, and
thefe are very numerous. Their houfes arc better cal-
culated for a cold than a hot climate { and it is owing
to their internal heat, that thefe people are fo chilly
when in the open air, and without exercife. We often
faw them make little firel at different places, and fquac
down round them, only to warm themfelves. In fom?
particulars their houfes are very neat ; for befides the
ornaments at top, we faw fome with carved door-pofts.
There are not any partitions in them.confcqucntly they
cannot have any of our ideas that make privacy ne-
ccflary. They cook their viduals in the open air,
without doors ; and the earthen jar, before mentioned,
fccms to be the only article of their houfliold utenfili
worth notice. In this they bake their roots and fifti.
They ufe three or five ftoncs, in the form of a fugar-
loaf, to keep the jars from refting on the fire, and
thrt it may bum the better. On thefe the jars lie in-
clined on their fides ; and three ftoncs are for one jar,
five for two. 1 he flones arc fixed in the ground, and
their pointed ends arc about half a foot atwve the fur.
1 Y face.
•n
>rle (ccmcd to relifli the ufte of it* which is fweet and
nfipid. Their fruit trees do not yield much fruit.
Plantains are not in abundance t fugarcahes and bread-
fruit are very fcarce ; and the cocoa-nuts are but thinly
planted.
Notwithftanding nature has been rather fcanty in
fier fikvours tp the ifland, it is not thinly peopled on
the fea coaft. and in the valleys that are capable of
cultivation. We faW, it is true, great nunnbers of the
natives every d^^r^ but we believe they came from all -
partt on our account. Down the coaft, to the well,
there are but few inhabitants, but from the eaft, they
came daily in large bodies, over the mountains, to vifit
us. We muft, however, confcfs, that what parts of
this country we faiw, arc not'iic to fupport many inha-
bitants, moll of thefc being barren rocky mountains,
the grafs growing on which is ufclefs to people who
have no cattle. The fea, perhaps, may compenfatc
for the (lerility of the land. A coaft encircled with
reefs and Ihoals, cannot fail of aflbrding a plentiful
fupply of fifli. Our botanical party did not complain
tor want of employment. They obferved feveral
plants, common :o the eallem and northern idands i
and, among other produdions, difcovcred the tree,
the bark ot which, being eaftly peeled oif, is ufed in
the Ead-Indies for caulking of Ihips. I'he bark is
foft, white, and ragged j the wood very hardi the
leaves long and narrow, in colour, of a pale dead green,
and in fmell, a fine aromatic. I'hcy found alfu a fiie-
cics of the padion flower, which, wc arc informed has
never before been known to grow wild any where but in
America. Of the land birds, which are very nume-
rous, wc faw feveral to us unknown, as a kind of tur-
tle doves, very beautiful, many fmall birds, and one
lelcmbling a crow, though much fmallcr, and its fea-
tlKts are tinged with blue. We endeavoured, but in
vain, to obtain the name of the whole illand { but we
got the names of feveral dillrici:i, w ith thofe of their
chiefs. Balade was the name of the diftrid we were
at, and Tea Booma the chief. Tea is a tide prefixed to
the names of all, or mod of their great men. The
captain'! friend, by wayof diftindlion, called him Tea
C6ok. Their canoes arc very clumfy, though fome-
what like thofe of the Friendly Ifles. Mod of them
are double canoes. They are navigated by one or two
lattcen fails. The fdil is made of pieces of matting ;
the ropes of the coarfe Ulamenu of the plantain tree.
They fiiil well, but are not cakmlated for rowing or
paddling. They are about thirty feet long, and the deck
or platform, about twenty-four in length, and ten in
breadth. In our traffic with thefc people, fmall nails
vere of little value, nor did they admire beads, idok-
ing-glaflcs, &c. and evert a hatchet was not Co valuable
as a ^ikt nail. Their womcH here as well as at Tanna,
arc very chafle, and we neverheard, that one of our
people ever obuincd the lead &vour from any one ojf
them: Indeed their ladies would fometimi-s divert
themfclves by going a little afide with our gentlemen,
as if they meant to be kind,' and then would in a mo-
ment run ai^ay laughing at them. Thcfe people de-
podt thdr dead in the ground. Some of our gentle- ,
men faw a grav<;, refemnling one of Roman tumuli, in
which, they Were informed lay the rei , ains of a chief,
(lain in battle. Round his grave fpcars, diuta, and
paddles, were (hick upright in the ground.
On 'Itiefday, th« 13th of September, |t fun rife,
we weig^Mi and dood fbi' the fame tiiannel we came
■ in by. At half Mid fevcn wt were in the mkldic of b,
when the'ifle of Balabca boir W. N. W. As foon u
we were dear cf the reef, we bore up aloMr the outfide
of it, ftcering N. W. by W. as it ocnded. Ac noM
the ifland of Balabca bore S. by W. diduK abMitibur
loniMt and at diree o'cktek P. M. it bert S. by E.
half E. From this place the retf iifeltnc4 to die-lll<
and then to N. W. Advancii^to N. W. we UtBA
More land, fo that Mr. Gilben mit iniSaken,Mid di(l
not fee die extremity of the coift. At five dik land
bore W. bv N. half N; difhuit itcar ieven leagues.
On the 14m, the reef dill trended N. W. along whicli
we fteered, with a liriit brectc, at E. S. £. At nooK
we had lolt.liB^ of mlabea, and at three o'clock^ wt
run l)^ aWtttKly ifle, the fptce between which, and
the nortlwwedelnmod land was drewed with ftnaJs.
At fun-fet, we could but jud fee the land, which bore
S. W. by S. about ten leunies diflant. No land was
feen to the wcftwaidi of this di(etton>i the reef too -
trended away Wt by Ni ahd ftom«he mad-head fecmed
to terminate in a-point ; lb that cmry apptarance flat«-
tercd oiir expcSgdons, and induced tfM to believe, that
we diouki foon «et round ti^e dwals. Ort thetjth, fee-
ins neither laniT nor breakers, we bore awiylK. W. by
W. but the fhoals dill continuin|^ we plied up fort
clear fea to the S. $• by doing which, we did but jud
weather the point pf dw reef we had pafTed the prece*
ding evening. To render our tituation the more dan-
gerous,- the wind began to fkil us t .in the afternoon it
fell a calm ; and we were left to the metcy of a gran
fwcll, fetting diredly for the reef, which was wot more
than a league from us. The pinnace and cutter were
hoided out to tow the fliip. but they wereaf little fer*
vice. At feven o'clock, a light air at NJ N. E. kept
her head to the fea; and on the 1 6th, at cteven o'clock
A. M. we hoided in the baits, and made fall to S. £»
A tide or current had been in our favour all nighi;, and
was the caufe (under God) of our getting founexpededly
clear of the Ihoals. On IViefday the stxh, at noon^
Cape Colnet bore N. 78 d^. W. diflant dx leaKues.
From hence the land extemfed round by the S. to E. S.
E. till it waa k>d in the horizon, and the country ap-
peared variegated with many hills and valleys. We
dood in diorc till fun-fet, when we were about three
leagues off. Two fmall iflots lay difhint from us five
miles, and others lay between us and the fltore. The
country was mountainous, and had much thk fiimc af-
pedt as about Balade. iki the atd, we foundourfelves
about fa leagues from the caid. On tfie a id, we dood
in for the land, which at noon extended from N. 78 de&
W. to S. 31 dec. half E. round by the S. The coad,
in thi!,lali direaion, feemed to trend more to the S, in
a lofty promontory, which, in honour of the day, was
named Cape Coronation, in latitude 22 deg. i min. and
in 167 deg. 7 min. 30 fee. E. longitude. On the sjd.
at day-break, a high point apj^arcd in dght, beyond
the cape, which proved to be' the S. E. extremity of
the cai|d, :to which we gave the name of Queen Char-
lotte's Foreland; It lies in latitude i23 deg. 16 rain. S:
and in 167 deg. 14 min. E. longitude. At noon, as .
we^rew near Ctpe Coronation, wefilw in a valley to
the fouth a vad number of elevated objedls, from whenc«
a great deal of fmoke kept ridng ail the day. Capt.
Cook was of (pinion thcfe were a fingular foft of trees,
being, as he thousht, too numerous to refcmble anjr
thing elfe. Some low Isind under the Foreland was en-
tirely covered with them. iThe wind having veered
round to the fouth, we- tacked, and nr4t oft^BlNr
thinking it fafe to approach the flioi«mir«tliirdtrk.
We dflod inagidnatday-brcak, en the 24th, an^ at
noon obTcrvcd in litimde at deg. 59 min. 30 fctrirXjipe'
Coronatwn bearimr' wed, fdurh*>r|yi didant (event
leagues, and tRe North Foivland fouth, ^S.d^. W.;
At fiiui-fet we difcovwed a ' k>w land, lying Si S. E.'
about feven milea from the Foreland, furraunded with
(hoab and faicakenb
Sunday the a jth, we dood to S. S. W. with a view of .
gettiog'tnlsnd die Florriand, but aa wc advanced, we
Mfceived man tow Me% b^ond tbi .eift alieady men-
dwiadt WitHitMAireAoodioriieMdi, toloekl^ra
riieft. We gataUdh^(m:e«Cf o'clock,
MS (o Hcer out E. S. E. mi to fpend
wttMeftawdcty. On the a6di, we ftrcuhcd
~ ' MfMkMl^lMant&deaiiKst Mid^dit
MdiL i*B BM^ Mid llud to S. W. widi the hopai of
wiid>«iMii^ mm twonUlo^hait. whkhoMigtd
^'^ -^ thfecrillkteofdi^inMi^
- 'V.bvN.toS.W.d«
off me S. £ pointy S,
byW, ipiift WIflMdifdtotecoancasdwidi d«
Iu0
m tMMll ai— i Idh wnnithn ci
till MtffHNK bcWMf wpos N. W,
hn W. Mif iMwMS iiH^ lyiwal
en leaoue*.
long which
AtnooK
I'dock, wt
vhich, and
vith flxMb.
which bore
9 land wu
le reef to*
Eadfecmed
innce flat>>
lieve, that
€tan, Tee-
fif.Vf.hy
d up for a
id but juft
theprece*
raoredan-
ftemoon it
of a great
■ not more
utter were
r little fer'
•I. E. kept
ren o'clock
II to S. £i
ligh^ and
expedledljr
I, at nooHi
X leainiet.
S. to E. S.
>untry ap>
leys. Wc
bout three
om ut Ave
ore- The
M fame af-;
iourfelvet
I, we flood
N.7gdegw
The coaft,
the S, in
e daf, waa
t min. and
n the S3d.
It, beyond
trcmity of
lecn Chai^
i 6 min. S.'
: noon, aa
1 valley to
Hn whenc*
ly. Capt.
)ft of trees,
*cinble anf
nd was en-
ing veered
d offwnpt^
«tlirdtrk.
th, and at
I rcc;X4ipe>
ant kvtit
i.deg. W.'
gSiS.Fj
ndcd witb
I a view of
anccd, we
lady men-
loc*%ra
tf o'clock,
dtofpend
eftrttched
uidonthc
* hopeHof
f
i^^i:.
i
J^:-,.?t-
* r:^.
4«"
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:'^ •>,
'H^r
Mt :?..
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C/2
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hll
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iv* .'nj.
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:.id.;
^1^'t.
lAiik
COOK'S SECb M D' VOTfi&E^for makitig DircoV^ries in the SiutA Sias Sc Rtiund the f^or/d. 1 79
brt>per for rpan, ot which wc were very much 11^ •'■"V
Th< carpenter and hii crew, after dinner, Were, t^
afliore, to cut down fuch trees as would bed ahlWerour
burpofe. While this work was dfting, Ca|M;. tbp'k
UDK ,d(Hvn the bearii^ of the f<;veral circumjtt^
land*; kt: The hin on the ifle of oines bd^e 1^. 56
deg. JO "nin. E. dte low point of Quee'n.ChiiiiMtf^
fbKWid'ndrth 14' dw, ^p min. WT t)^e i}kh ]||nfl
libovfr h, fecn over two tow iflei^ north. 20 de^:^. cm)
the niolt advanced point bf land to this weft, bore W.
half a point' S'. diiont feven leamies. Iliis point the
cap;;m nuned the Prince of Wueiv Foitland. It tiet
bun Idand by breaker*. The (kirttof this i'hwiVfre
corned with the elevationa before mentioned, which
had ^nuch the appetrahce of tall pl*et, iiidtherefok*
the captain nwiKd the iflaiid from thewf. The roonfl
hilt on the S. W. fide may be feen fcurteorltagueioff.
Thi* Hie of pinea iinboiit athlle in circuit, m latitude
«9 dak. 3« min- S- «•»<* '" ' *? deg. 40 «"•"• E. Having
madetWo attempts to weather the ifland before fun-fet,
*ith no better fiiccefs than before, we ftretchcd off
(ill midnlrfit. On the a«th. at day-break, we found
burfelvd reviWl leagues to windward of the ifle of
PiiWt.' Thb dbaft fi'Am the 9. E. roiind by the footh to
tht weft. i*e tM was ftrcw^ with fand banks, breakers,
ahd fmall low ifle*. We ranged the outfide of thefe at
nearly a iMoue Jiftsnce, and as we pafTcd fomc others
•ripttrM sTo that they fcemcd to form a chain cxtend-
InKto the ifles that lie off the Foreland, in the aftet-
n<»n, we fteercd N. W. by W. with a fine gate at eaft.
with a view of Ailing in with the land j but we difco-
vered two low ifiots, bearing W. by S. They weit con-
nefted by breakers, which fcemcd to jom thofe on our
fhirboard « oix which accoum we found it neceffanr to
haul off S. W. to get dear of them an. At three
o'clock P. M. more brcdcers appeared. M(hich from the
maft Head were fccn to extend as far as eaft-fouth j
and from the fmoothncfs of the fca, wc conjedhired,
that ihcy might alfo extend to the north-eaft ; fo that
we were in a manner fiirroundcd with them. Having
Tnad(* a fliort trip to N. N. E. we'ftood again to the
fouth, and again had the alarming iight of a fea full of
Ihoals. which we Could only clear by returning in the
track we came before. Wc tacked again nearly in the
fame place, and then anchored in a frrong gale, in a
bottom of fine fand, having a chain of breakers to the
IttevfiiVd. We fpcnt the night in making fliott boards
«Ver the known J^accwehiid travertVd in the day ; but
tinder the uncafy apprchehfioiis of bfcing in the moft
thiminent danger. This waS very evident on the 29th,
at day-light, which Ihewcd our fears were not ill-
founded, having had breakers continually under our
fee, and at a very little diftance from us. The people
on the forccaftle and lee gangway, fa* breakers under
the lee bow, which we avoided by quickly tacking.
We now kept a good look out, and managed the Ihip
brilkly, but after all the moft pnidcntial endeavours o^i
our part, wc rauft afcribe glory to God. being fiilly
convuiced, that we owed our fafety and prcfcrvation.to
the Intcrpofition of a Divine Providence. Capi. Cook -j
was now inclined to quit this dangerous coaft, but, how-
ever, he rcfolved firlV to fee what thofe trees were,
which had been the fuhjeA of our fpeculations. and
concerning which many, contrary opinions had been
nuintaineu. Befidcs. he thought the difcovery might
be uiisful to future navigators. Being now but a few
miles diftantfrom the low iflands lying off the Foreland,
mentioned in our journal' on the 45tn inftant, we hire
down to that which was ntarcft to us. As we ap-
proached, wc perceived it was unconnected with the
neighbouring (noals. and thought we might get to an-
fch«r under its weft and lee fide. Having hauted there-
fore round the point of the reef, wc attempted to ply
p windward; but another reef to thci north, whicn
fbrnwd a narrow channel, thmugh which ran a cuntfnt
^gainft us, rendered this attempt fruitlefs. Wc there-
fore anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water, about a
knik from the ifland, and having hoifted out the boat,
^t a party on (hore, acconmanicd by the bptaniftt,
Who found the trees to be a fort of fpruce piiwsj'ye»
srbper for fpars, of which wc were very much i^ WiW^
f
in latitude 22 deg. ao min. S. and in 166 drg. $7
min. E. longitude: when firft feen above the horizon,
by rcafba or'iu height, it looks like an ifland. The
trub aireftlon of the coafl from the Foreland to this
pdlnt; ha(l been afceruincd from fcveral bearings.
On chi< fmall Ifle, which is not quite a mile m cir-
cumifcrenc^, grew, befidcs the pines, a variety of other
trees, fhrubs, and plants t and thefe having fiifliciently
employed the botaniftn during our flay, on this account
the captain named the little ifland iJotany Ifle. Wc
nw here fcveral pigeons, duvei, and water-fnakca, dif-
ferent fiom any we ji^q l^chs likcwifc a hawk of the
fame kind as our E^glifh fifhing hawks. A number
offirc-placcii. and Tome reqnain^ of turtle, were iignsof
people having lately vilited this place. In the fand lay
the wreck ofa canoe, cxadlly of the fame make as thofe
we had feen at Balade; and wc no\y were convinced,
that of thefe pines they made their canoes. Some of
thefe trees mcafurcd 20 inches in diameter, were 70 t'cct
long, and would have fervcd very well for a foremaft,
had we wanted one. As trees of fo large a fize arc
the produce of fo fmall a fpot. it is reafonable to fup-
ppfe, that larger ones arc the growth of the main. This
difcovery may be valuable to future navigators; for
except New Zealand, we know of no ifland in the
Pacific ocean, w here a fhip can be fupplied with a maft
or yard, were Ihe ever fo niuch diftreffed for want of
one. This was the opinion of our carpenter, who was
both mafl-nukcr and fhipwright in IDeptford-yard.
Thefe trees fhoot out their branches fmallcr and fhortcr
than other pines, fo that when wrought for ufe their
knots difappcnr. We obfcrved that the largeft had the
flM)rtcft branches, and were crowned at the top w ith a
head like a bufh. The wood is white, clofc i;rained,
tough, yet light. Turpentine had oozed out of moft of
the trecs^ which the fun had fomKd into rofin. This
Was found adhering to the trunks, and laying about
theroois. The feeds are produced in cones. We found
here another fmall tree or flirub. ofthe fpruce fir kind:
alio a kind of Icurvy-grafs, and a plant which, when
boiled, cat like fpinnage. The purpofc being an-
fwercd for which w*^ landed on this ifland, the cap-
tain determined, not tp^ ^haziird the ftiip down to lee-
ward, but to try to get to the fouihward ofthe thoals.
The extent of this S. W. coaft had been already pretty
veil determined; a more accurate furvey might beat-
tended with great ri(k and many dangers; it vtas too
late to let up and enijploy the frame of the little vefTcl
we had on board, and mould the Refolution be henuneJ
ih, we might by that means lofe the proper feafon for
getting to the fouth ; thefe reafons induced thcCaptaia
to make fomc trips to weather the flioals to the lee-
ward of Botany Ifle. But when this was thought to
be cficded.
On Friday the 30th, at three o'ckxrk P. M. it fell
calm, the fwell, aflifted by the current, fet us fafl
tbwards'the breakers, which were yet in fight to the
$. W. but at ten o'clock a breeze fpringing up. we
fleered E. S. £. not venturing farther fouth till day
light. ,
On Saturday pflobcr the ift, we had a very flrong
wind at S. 3. W. attended by a great fea, fo that we had
reafon to rejoice at.hAviiie'gpt clear ofthe fhoals befotv
'thiiigalc overtook uis. We were now obliged to ftrctcb
to the S. E. and at noon were out of fight of land.
On the ad, in the afternoon, we had little wind, and
a great fwell i but at eleven, a frefh breeze fpringing up,
we flood to the fputh. We were now in the latitude
Qtiiieg. 1 8 min. and in 1 69 deg. 49 min. E. longitude.
On the 3d, at eight o'clock A. M. we had a ftrong
gale with fqualls from the S. W. and the Captain laid
afidc all thoughts of returning to the land we had left.
Nor fould fuch an attempt be thought a prudent one.
^I^en.wccopfider. that.we bad a vafl ocean yettoex-
plyjretQtlieloutlisiiiat the (hip was already in want
ofiie;;;clIary (lon^s ;, that fMmmcr was approaching very
fikft, and that anv confiderable accident might detain us
from purfuing the great objc& rf this voyage another
year. Thus ncceflity compelled u$ to leave a coaft, for
the firfl time, which wc had difcovcrcd, but not fully
explored.
l8o
Capt. C O O K'a V O Y AGE 8 COMPLETE.
tu;
I I
exptored. The capuin named it New Caledonia, and
in his opinion, it it next to New Zealand, the largeft
ilUnd in the South PaciAc Ocean. The extent it
from latitude 19 deg. 37 min. to 33 dcg. .-)0 min. S. and
From longitude 163 dcs. 37 min. to 167 deg. 14 min,
E. It Iwi neariy nTw. half W. and S.E. half E.
Mid ii about ft? Ingue* long, but its breadth does not
any where exceed 10 leagues. It here mud be noted,
that in the extent given to this ifland, it included the
broken or unconneaed lands to the N. W.
On Thurfday the 6th, we continued our courfe to
New Zealand, with this view we (ailed S. S. E. havii^
a blowing frcfli gale, but at noon it fell calm. At this
time we found ourfelves by obfervation, in latitude
17 deg. JO min. S. and in 171 dcg. ^3 min. E. longi-
tude. During the calm, which contmued all this day,
the carpenters were employed in caulking the decks.
Thit wat done with vamifli of pine, coverra with coral
fand, as they had neither pitch, tar, nor rofin left. The
experiment with refpofl to the cement, fiir exceeded
their expedationi. In the afternoon, two aibatroflct
were ihot, which, at thit time, we thought equally good
asRcefe.
On the 7th a breeze fprung up, and fixed at S. E.
by S. The day following we had a gentle gale, at-
tended with fine weather. On the ath we were in
latitude 28 deg. 35 min. and in 170 aeg a6 min. E.
longitude. In the evening, Mr. Cooper (truck a por-
poilc. It wat fix feet long, and a female, called by
naturalifis the dolphin of the ancients, and which differs
from the common porpoife in the head and jaw, which
are long and pointra. This had 88 teeth in each jaw.
It was fird foaked in water, then roafted, broiled,
and fried. To us who had lone fublUled on fait meat,
it was more than palauble ; and we thought the hafiet,
and lean fle(h, a delicious feall.
On the lothwedifcovered land, fituatedin latitude
39 dcg. 2 min. 30 fee. S. and in 168 deg. 16 min. E.
longitude. Caut. Cook called it Noirolk Ifiand, in
honour of the Howard family, who have the title of
the duke of Norfolk. We anchored here in 33 fathoms
water, on a bank of coral fand, mixed with broken
(hells. After dinner, a pirty of us embarked in two
boats, and landed on the idand behind fome laive
rocks. It was uninhabited, and we were undoubtedly
the firfi who ever fet foot upon it. We obfervcd many
trees and plants common to New Zealand, particularly
the flax plant, which grows very luxuriant here. We
found in great abundance the fpruce pine trees, firaight
and ull, and many of them as thick as two men could
fathonn. The foil of thit ifland is rich and deep, the
•woods pet fcdly clearfrom underwood,and for about.200
yards from the (hore, the ground is covered with (hmbs
and plants. We found here many fea and land fowl, of
the (anK kind as in New Zealand ; likcwili: cabbage-
palm, wood-forrel, fow-thiftle, i>
ing to us in Shag Cove > but when we landed, and drew
neartotheir habitations, they all fled, except two or thre^
men, who maintained their ground, with their weapon*
in their hands. The moment we landed they knew us,
and their fears fubfided. Thofe who had fled returned
from the woods, embraced us over and over ag^n. and
exprelTed their joy at feeing us, by jumping and
danciiig in a frantic manner t but the men would not
fuflfer (ome women we faw at a dilhince to conne near
us. We made them prefenu of hatchcu and knives,
and in return they gave ut a quantity of fi(h they had
jud caught. The next nwmiitt they brought ut more
fifli, which they bartered for Otaneitean cloth. Wealked
them on what account thev were afraid of us, and alfo
what was become of our old friends ? To thefe quefliont
we got no (atisfadlory anfwersi but thev talked much
about killing, which wat varioufly underftood by us.
On' Wednefday the 26th. fome of the natives went to
the tents, and told our peq>le, that a (hip like oura
had lately been lod, that fome of the men landed at
Vanna Aroa, near Terrawhitte, on the other fide the
drait; that a difpute happened between them and the
natives t that feveral of the latter were fliot 1 and that
the natives got the etter of them when they could
fire no longer, and both killed and ate them. One of
the relators of this drange ttie, faid it was so or 30
days aco; but another (aid it Mas two moons fincc^
and. deteribed, as well as he could, in what manner the
(hip wat beat topiecei. The following day they told the
fame dory to othert, which made the captain, and i»i.
deed all of ut, very uneafy about the Adventure, but
when the captain enquired himfelf, and endeavoured to
come at the truth of thefe rcporu, the very people who
raffed them, denied every fy liable of what they had ^id^
and feen^d wholly ignorant of the matter; (b that w^
t.»m to. think tKe whole relation had reference only to
their own pcofde and boau. On the aSth,^ again
went on diore. but found no appearance of the BSSI •nd
fowit we had left behind. Having been a (hoduqg to
the wed biff, in our tetum we got fome filh from the
QBtivea
ToOl?nECONDVOY AGE— for maklri:,' Di/ceDerift in the South Seas & Round the fVorJJ. i 8 1
iwtivei for a few triHini^ prcfentt. A> we came buck,
fomc of the party thousht they hcird a pig fqiioak in
the wooili. We Ihot tnii clay a|;ood many wilii fowl
and fiiMll bird*. On the 31ft, it was fomewhat re-^
markabic that all the natives left us.
Tuefday, the 1 ft of November, wc were vifited by a
number of ftrangen, who came from up the fotmd. I'hc
principal article of trade they brou{^ht with them was
green ftone, fomc of which were the largeft pieces vc
had ever fcen. On the 3d, a large black fow was fcen
by the botanizing party, which we dilcovered to be the
fame that Capt. r'urncaux left behind him. Suppoling
it to be a boar we carried over to Long Idand a fow,
but feeing o«ir miftake, we brought her back. This
incident afforded us foine hopes, that this ifland in time
will be ftockcd with fuch ufcfiil animals. Lieutenant
PickerfKiil was told the fame ftory by one of the na-
tives, of a Hiip having been loft, but the man de-
clared, though many people were killed, it was not
by them. On the cth, we ol)taincd a fcafonabic and
plentiful fupply of fifti from our old friends. Early in
the morning Cajit. Cook, accompanied by Mr. Sparr-
man, and the Mcflrs. Forftcrs, embarked in the pin-
nace, and urocecdcd up the found, in order to difcovcr
a piilTagc that way out to fea by the S. E. Wc were
met by fome fifhemien, who all declared, there was no
ytalFage by the head of the found t and foon after four
men in a canoe concurred in the fame opinion, con-
lirming what the others had faid, but they gave us to
iinderftand, that there was fuch a paflagc to the eaft.
We therefore laid alide our firft delign of going to the
head of the found, and proceeded to this arm of the
lea, on the S. E. fide, which is about five leagues above
the ifle of Mortuara. Within the entrance, at a place
called Kotieghenooee, we came to a large fcttlemcnt of
the natives. Their chief, Tringo-bohec, and fomc of
his attendants had lately been on board the (hip, by
whom we were received with great civility j and theft
people encouraged us to purluc the objcdl we had in
view. Wc therefore continued our courfe down this
arm of the fea, E. N. E. and E. by N. having a view
of feveral fine coves, which wc pafled, and at length
we found it open, by a channel about a mile wide,
into the ftrait. A ftrong tide ran out, and we had ob-
fcrved another fetting down the arm. Near four o'clock
P. M. this tide cealed, and was fuccccdcd by the flootl.
The outlet lies S. E. by E. and N. W. by W. from
Terniwhitte. A little within the entrance, we found
thirteen fathoms water; but, from its fituation, it
fccmed necellary to have a trading wind either to go
in or out of this channel 5 but having determined to
return on board before night, we had not tiinc to make
other ncccffary obfervations. Wc faw a Hippah, or
ftrong hold, about two miles within the entrance, built
on the north rtde, which we omitted vifiting, though
the inhabitants made figns for us to come on Ihoie ; but,
without paying any regard to them, we made the bcft
•I our way for the ftiip, and returned on board about
ten o'clock, bringing with us a few fifli and birds;
among which laft were fomc ducks wc had ftiot, of the
fame kind as ihofe in Dulky Bav. The natives knew
thcfc, and feveral other fons. by the drawings, and had
a particular name for each.
On Sunday, the 6th, our old friends returned, and
I
took up their abode near the tenit. An old man, named
Pedi-ro, made Capt. Cook a prcfcnt uf a ftalf of h»"— The Re/olulMH departs from Chriflmas Sound— Douiles Cape Htm— Her parage-
tbimgbfirait UMaire, and round Stolen Ifland— A harbour in this ifle difcovered—The coafls de/criied— Geographical
utjcrvatms—Remayki on ijlands, and the animals found in them, near Staten Land—Departurefrm Staten ifland— Nau-
ticat obfervations— The fland of Georgia difccvered, and a defcripiive account of the fame.
npHURSpAY.Nov. 10, at day-break, weweighed
VT ^" , ?"?* ^"^ ^i^"^ Charlotte's Sound, in
^fewZ«land, having a fine breeze at W, N. W. All
No, 31,
our fails being fet, we got round the Two Brothers, arid
ftretched for Cape Campbell, at the S. W. entrance of
the ftrait. We pafled this at four o'clock P. M. diftant
a Z five
'a
kII
m
kII
\$-
If
1 '
1 1/
1
1 H
1
h .^il
i 1 .
4'
Kl
■■r."
1
M;i
1
i8s
Ave Icaguci, uid thtv. <\ttni $. S. B. half E On the
nth, at fevcn o'clock P. M. ^pe Pkllil^r bore N.
half W. diftafit Ihteen lea^uei, from which Cape, for
the third tiine, wc took our departure. We new ftecred
S. by E. in drdcr to get into the latitude of j4 or 5 (
deg. Capt. Cook'i intention being to crofi thii valt
ocean in thefc parallel, hoping by this courfc to pafi
over thofe paru, which, the precedins fummcr, were
left unexplored. On the lath, A. NlTwe were in la-
titude 41 deg. 13 min. 30 fee. S. and in 176 deg. 41
inin.E. fongitude, whcnwefaw an uncommon fith'tt'che
whale kind ; and, in the afternoon, the Pintado i'e-
terels began to appear. On the nth, at fcvcn in the
evening, ue hauled up toward* a log bank, which we
took for land 1 after which wc ftecred S. K. by S.
and faw a feal. At noon, by obfervation, wc found
Our latitude to be 44 deg. 3$ min. S. longitude 177
deg. 31 min. E. On the 14th, we faw another fcal in
tititude 45 deg. 54 min. and 179 deg. 29 min. K. long.
On the 1 5 th, having palTcd the great merid i.nn of 1 8odcg.
E. which divides the globe into two equal parts, we be-
gan to reckon our longitude weft of Greenwich. At
noon our latitude obfcrved was 49 deg. 33 min. longi-
tude 1 7j deg. 3 1 min. W. On "1 hurlilay the 1 7th, wc
faw a (eal, fome penguins, .ind pieces of fca weed.
On the 1 9th we were in latitude 53 deg. 43 min. .ind on
the 20th, at noon, in latitude 54 deg. 8 miii. longi-
tude 162 deg. 18 min. W. Monday, the 21ft, we
fteered S. E. by S. and at noon wc faw abund»nce of
blue petercis, in latitude 55 deg. 31 min. longitude i6o
deg. 29 min. On the :2d, at noon our latitude by ob-
fervation was 55 dig. 48 min. longitude 156 dig. 56
min. W. In the afternoon, having a light brcc/.e at S. S.
E. we ftecred caft, northerly ; and, in the night, uas a
faint appearance of the Aurora .Vuftralis. On the
Bjd, we were in latitude 55 deg. 46 min. .S. longitude
156 deg. 13 min. VV. when a trcfh gale bkw from the
weft, and we fteered now E. half N. Oii the 26th, we
were in latitude 55 deg. 8 min. S. and in 148 deg. 10
min. W. longitude.
On Sunday, the 27th, wc ftecred caft, having a
fteady'frcfti gale; and at noon, were in latitude C5
deg. 6 min. S. and in 138 deg. 56 min. W. longitude.
In this parallel, not a hope remained of finding any
more land in the fouthern PacificOcean. Weretolved
therefore to ftcer for the weft entrance of the ftraights
of Maghellan, with a view of roafting the fouth lide
of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the Strait
Lc Maire. We tnought this track might be an ad-
vantage to navigation and geography, as the world is
little acquaintcowith that fhore. In the afternoon we
had fqually weather, which carried away our top-gal-
lant maft. On the a 8th A. M. the bolt rope of the
main top-fail broke, whereby the fail was fplit. The
ropes, to our fquarc fails efpecially. are not of a lize and
ftrength fufficient to wear out the canvafs. At noon we
were in latitude 55 deg. 20 deg. S. and in 134 dec.
16 min. W. longitude. On the 29th, the wind abated ;
and on the 30th, at 8 o'clock P. M. the wind veering
to N. E. wc tacked, and ftood to E. S. E. Wc were
now in latitude 55 deg. 22 min. S. and in 128 deg. 4$
nun. W. longitude. Sc\cral albatrolFcs and petercis
Were fccn.
On Thurfday, the ift of December, at 3 o'clock
P. M. it fell a calm, but at about feven, we got a wind
at S. E. w ith w hich we ftood N. E. On the 5th, a line
pale at ff)Uth, enabled us to fteer caft. with very little
deviation to the north ; and the wind now altering to
S. W. and blowing aft eady gale, we continued to fteer
eaft, inclining a little to fouth. At Ttx o'clock in the
evening, we v\ere in latitude 53 -^g* ^ min. and in 1 1 5
deg. 58 min. W. longitude. On the 6th, we had fome
fnow fhowers ; and on Wednefday, the 7th, a fine plcft-
fant gale, with fhowers of rain. On the oth, at noon.
We found ourfelves by obfervation, in latitude 53 deg,
37 iTun. and in 103 deg. 44 min. weft longitude. The
wind veered now to N. E. and afterward«, came infen-
libly round to the foutii by the E. and S. E. On the
I oth we paiTcd a fmali bed of fea weed, in latitude 54
, deg. longitude 102 deg. 7 nita. W. On the i ith, wc
fteered E. half a point N. and on the i jth, at fii in
the evening, we were in latitude jj deg. 35 min. Umi-
gitudc 95 deg. 5 2 min. W. Many and various liwtHof
albatrofrn were hoverina about the fliip. On Mundav,
the nth, we had a calm which continued till mid-
night, when a breexe from the fouth fixing at weft, we
fteered eaft. On the ^4th, in the morning, we found
the variation of the compafi to be 13 deg. 35 min. K.
in latitude 53 deg. 25 min. kingi'Mdc 87 dig. $3 min.
W. which increafcd in I'ucha manner, that on the 1 5th,
in the latitude of 53 deg. 30 min. longitude 82 deg. 2 j
min. W. it wai 170 E. 'This day wc faw a |xnguini
and on the i6th, a fcal, and fome diving petcreU. On
Saturday the 17th, the variation incrcaled to 21 deg.
38 min. being in latitude 53 deg. 16 min. S. and in
75 deg. 9 min. weft longitude. All this day wc fteered
caft by north, and eaft half north, under all the fail*
wc could carry, in hopes of feeing the land before
night t but not making it till tcno'cl(K.k, we fteered
ealV, in order to make fur« of falling in with Cape De-
feada. Atniidnight wc made thelaml.cxiendiMg liom .V.
E. by N. to E.by S. about fixicagues diftant ; u)X)n feeing
which we brought to with the fhip's head to the fouth.
Having founded, we found fevcntv-five fathoms water,
the bottom good. The land before us we < oiicIudeJ
to be the welt coaft of Terra del Fuego, near the \ulk
entrance of the ftraights of Maglu-Ilan. This beitiK
the firft run made by Capt. Cook in a high fouthern la.
titude, ue have been very particular in noting all the
material circumftances we could colled tcgrtner. In
this couric the weather had been neither unufually
ftormy, nor cold. Before we arrived in the latitude
of 50 deg. the mercury in the thermometer fell gradu-
ally from fixty to fifty ; and in the latitude of 5 5 deg.
it was generally l)etween fbrty-feven and forty-live;
once or twice it fell to forty-three. Thclic ohlcrva-
tions were made at noon. Wc had now entirely left
the fouthern Pacific CXrean, and we tnift the world
will give our captain fome credit for having well ex-
Klored the fame j nor could, in our opinion, more have
rcn done towards obtaining that end, in one voyage,
than h.is been cffedled in this. We muft not omit to
obferve, that foon after we left New Zealand, Mr.
Wales contrived, and fixed up an inftrument, which
mcafiired with giv.it accuracy, the angle the ftiip rolled
in, when failing large, and in a great fea ; and that in
which
liriitciunn
hail (lirdivcrtti tlic il.iy hclbri-. IT romiiiLf trom (i.i,
it ii iifi vdarv ti) liMvc all the riKki ami ill.iiuN, !> in^ otl
nnd Mithitt York MinlKr, on thi- larlHianl-lKli', iiii.l the
W.Kk rrxk, olK the foiuh-rnil of Shaj; Kl.uul, im tin-
|hrl)«iaiil. Wlu-n ahrtaH n» iho foiith-ciul ol that
illaml, Mthaiiiiil t)viT (or the \w(l (liorc, taking laro
to avoid the hiilx of « ceili, itulicationi iit r«K k», Ionic
of which Wire li fathomi umkr -vatcri but wi- thoiifjlu
it the fa fell wav always to keep clear of them. 'I he
entrance into the larf;e harliour, which wc called Poit
Clerk, is to the north of fomc low rw ks, lyiiii!; oil a
point on SIur Illanil. This harlioiir lies in \V . by S.
a mile and a half. Ir hath wiwd and frefli water, and
from 12 to 14 fathoiiKs deep. To the fouthward of
port Clerk, feeined to be another harbour, l<)riiicil by a
lar^^c illand ; without this, between it and York MinlUr,
the whole fea appeared Ihewed w ith illots, roi ks, anvi
breakers. At tlic fouth end o( Sha),' Ifland the lliaj^s
breed in vaft numbers, in the cliU's of the roi ks. VVe
fliot fomc of the old ones, but could not come at the
young ones, whjch arc bv much the b»ll caring,. We
likew ifc brought dow n three w ild geefe, a raluable acqui-
fition at this tmie. \\'e returned and got on board at
feven o'clock in the evening. Mr. I'ickerlgill, who had
jufl l)efore arrived, inlormed us, that the landoppolite
loourllation is an illand j that on another, more to
the north, he found many terns eggs; and inaearcd to be of the fame
r.uion, wc h.iii formerly fccn in Succefs Bay; and which
M. de Hmigainvillc calls Pecharas, bccaufe they con-
tinuiUy ui'ed thi.s word. They are a diminutive, ugly,
half-rtarveil, beardlefs race; almoft naked, being only
lliihtly covered with a feal-lkin or twojoined together,
lb as to make a cloak, which reached to their knees ;
but thegreatttV part of them had but one Ikin, which
fcartelv covered their Ibouldcrs, and all their lower
t)arrs were quite naked. The women arc clothed no
letter than the men, except that they cover their nakcd-
nels with a feal-lkin H.ip. They arc inured from their
infan( y to cold and luirdiliips, lor wc faw two young
chililien at the breall entirely naked. They remained
all the tmie in their canoes, having their bows and ar-
rows with them, and haipiwns, made of bone, with
which wc imagined, they llrike and kill fifli. Both
they and their cloaths finclt niofl intolerably of train
oil. Wc threw them fome bifcuit, but they fccmcd
inuch better pleafed with our prefents of medals, knives,
&c. Their canoes were made of bark, and on each
of them was a lire. They had alfo large fcal hides,
which may fervc is covering to their huts, on iliore, in
foul weather. Tlu y all departed before dinner, nor did
wc believe, any one invited them to partake of our
Chriftmas cheer, which confillcd of gcefe, roalV and
boiled, goofc-pyc, ivc. a treat little known to us; and
which was heightened by Madeira wine, the only article
of our provifjons that was mended by keeping. Pqr-
I
haps our liiendj in l'",iigland did mif ofihol'e filthy
people, and by ibe (Kin h the) always tarried about
them. Wc called this place Chrillmas Sound, in ho-
noiirof the day, and the joyful tWlival wc had cr hbrainl
here. On the jfith, wc wcre.igain vilitcd by fome of
the natives, and as it was vefy i old in the evening, and
thrv 'h)ol lliivering on tht deck, the i aiitain lioiii an
impulleof humanity, gave thcin fon»c old canvas and
Iwi/e ((»r covering.
On Tiulday the ayth, every thing on (liort: was or-
dered on U)ard. '!"he weather Ixing (ine and plcal'ant,
aoartynl us went round by the lotith lide of tiool'c
Kland aiul picked 110 )i of thcic kind of birds. On
the call- lide of the illand, 1 1 thcnoith of the call point,
Is a good pIa(T for (hips to lay in thut are bound lor
the well. When we returned o'l Ihurd, we (()und all
the work doni-, and the laiimh in, fo that we no.v
only waited lor a fair wind to put to lea. Thecntr.incc
of Chrlllinas Sound, whn h vie exin> ftil loon to ItaVe,
IS three leagiies wide, and fiiiunted in latitude 51; deji;.
2-) min. S. and in 70 deg. i6min. W. longituile 1 in
the direction of north _{•/ dig. W. from Si. JldelonUi
nil s, ilillant I o leagues. We think thefe illcs to be the
l)t U land mark (or (inding the found. It is advifeabic
(or no one to anchor very near the (bore, (or we gene-
rally (bund there a rocky bottom. The rel'rellinuius to
be procureil at this place are wild ll)wl, very good
celery; and plenty of mufcles, not larpc, but well tailed.
The gecfe are fmaller than our I'.nglilli tame ones, but
eat as well as the bell of them. The gander is all
white; the female fpottcil with black anil wliiie, with
a large white Ipot on each wing. Here is alii) a kind
of duck, vvhii h our people called the race-horfe, on
account of its fwiftnels on the water, (or the wings be-
ing too lliort to fupport the liody in the air, it i annot
(ly. We believe, (roin certain circumltanccs, the peo-
ple do not live here throughout the whole of the wiiuer-
(calon, but retire to parts where the weather is Icf*
(cvere. To appearance, they arc the moll wictilKd of
all the natives wc have fccn. Thev live in an inhofpi-
table clime, and do not feem to have fagncity enough
to proviile thcmfelves with the comlorts of life, parti-
cularly in the article of cloathing. Barren as this coun.
try is, our botanills found therein many unknown ])lani>.
In the woods is the tree which produccth the winter's
bark ; alfo the holly-leaved barberry ; and jilenty of
berries, whii h we called cranberry; with many other
forts comiiu>n in ihefe llraits.
On Weilnefday the 28th, we failed from this found,
with a light luee/cat N. W. At noon Point Nativitv,
being the call |)art of the found, bore N. hall W. dil-
tant one league and a half. M'c lleered S. I',, by E.
and I'.. S. v.. till (bur o'clock, P. M. w hen wc hauled to
the fouth, lor the fake of a nearer view of St. Ildcfonlb.
The coall appeared indented as iifual, and at this tiiiu;
wc were abreall of an inlet lying I*".. S. K. At the well
[joint of this are two high peaked hills, and below tlicm,
to the call, two round ones, or fmall illes, in the iluec-
tion of N. K. and S. W. from each other. At halt pall
five o'clock, we had a good light of IMetonlb Illes.
Thefe are (ituatcd about (ix leagues from the main, in
latitude 55 deg. 53 min. S. and in 69 ikg. 41 min. NV .
longitude. We now rcfumcd and continued our 1 ourfc
to thecal^. At fun-fctthc ncarell land bore S. I„by I.,
three fourths E. and the well point ofNallhu U.u, dif-
covered by Admiral Hermite in if) 24, bore 1101 th 80
deg. E. (ix leagues diflant. This jioinr, in fome < iiart»,
is called Falfe Cape Horn, as being the foiitlu rn (xunt
of Terra del Fuego. It lies in latitude 5 ; deg. (v "im.
S. From the above mentioned inlet to this (aile i ape,
the diredUon of the coall is nearly E. hall a point S.
dillant 14 or 15 leagues.
On the 29th, at three o'clock .'* . M. wc (leered S. I-".,
byS. at four Cape I lorn, (or which we now made fail,
bore E. by S. at a didancc it is known by a round bifh
hill over it; and though to the V\'. N. W. there is .t
point not unlike thij, yet their lituation.s will always
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COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE— tor mMng Di/ioveri,-j in the Sout/jScas & Round the IVortJ. j 8 j
be fufficient to diftinguifh the one from the other. At
half part fcven we palfcd this cape, and entered the
Southern Atlantic (Xean. Two peaked rocks are on
the N. W. fide of the cape, refembling fugar loaves ;
alfo other low ftraf?};linff rocks to the weft, and one
fouth of it. From Chriftmas So*md to this Cape, the
courfc is E. S. K. one fourth E. dirtant 31 Icaj^uw.
The rocky imint three leagues from Cape Horn, in the
direction E. N. E. we called Miftakcn Cape. It is
the fouthern txiint of the eaftcrnmort of Hermite Klos.
There ieenjcd to be a padage between thcll- two capes
into NafTau Bay. In this paflage fome iflcs were fc-cn,
and on the wcrt fide, the coaft had the appearance of
forming good bays and harbours. In fome charts Cape
Horn is laid down as part of a linal! illand, which we
had not in our power to confirm or comradii!:t, as th*
hazy weather londcrod every objei-'t indiftinct. From
hence we fteered E. by N. half N. without the rorks
that lie off Miftaken Cape. Having palfid thofe, we
rteered N. E. half E. and N. !•'.. tor Strait le Maire.
At eight o'clock in the cvcniii;;. finding oiirfelves nr.\t
the Itrait, we fliortened fail, and hauled the wind.
The fugar-loaf on Terra del Fuc>;o l»ore north w\ deg.
W. the |ioint ofSucccfs Bay jull open of the cape ot
rtie fame n.une, bearing north 20 deg. F".
On the .}oth, during the calm, we were driven by
tl c current over to Staten IjiuI ; b' •. a light bree/.c
fpringing up at N. N. W. we (lood over for .Succcfs
Bay. We hoi(lcd our colours, and having lu'f )re firrd
two guns, we perceived a fmokc rif • ou": of the wrtoiis,
Mude by then.itives above the fouth point of the lny,
which was the plnce where they rcfideil wlu-n we were
here in 1769. A party was now fent into .Sucrefs B.iy,
in order todifcovcr if any traces of the .\dvfnture were
to be feen there ; but they returned without having
found any. Oiir Ihip's name, ivc. were written on a
card, and nailed to a tree which llooil near the place
where it was likely the Aiheniurc would water, fliould
flic be behind us, and put into this place. When Mr.
Pickcrfgiil landed, the natives received him and his
aolfciates with great courtcfy. They were clothed in
feal Ikins, had bracelets on their arms, ;.nd ajipcarcd to
be the fame kind of people we had ken in Chrilbnas
Sound. The bracelets were made of lilvcr wire, wrought
fomcwhat like the hilt of a fword, and no doubt, the
workmanlhip of an J'.unipean. .Aci dniing to Vfr.
Fickerfjriir.s rci>orr, the hay w.as full of while- uul
feals, and we had ohfervcd the Catne in the llrair, p.ir-
ticularly on the Terrel del Fuego fide, where the w hales
are exceeding numerous. H.ivmg now explored the
fouth coall of Terra del I-ucgo, we refolved to do
the fame by Staten l.and. At nine oMock rhewin.l
veering to N. W. wc t.i< ked, and rtooil to S. W.
On Saturday the 3 ill in the morn iig, we Ix)it up
foithecaft cud olStaten Land; which, ar half p.ill four
iKire f«)uth 6ode<.v F. the weft end fouth : deg. F.. an J
I'l ira del Fuego ii)urh 40 deg. W. The weather being
ha/y, we couUl only now and then get light oF the
coal! ; but as wead's.mced to the rail, feveral illands
were fien ot' iuu\|iial extent. We were abreaft of the
moft eallern one at eight o'clock, .\. .M. wlim we
waited ti)n)e time for dear Wv-ather : but .is it f'ld not
clear up as we wilhed, we hauled round the eait end ot
the ifland, for the fake of aiu horage, if we Ihould think
it neiclFary. We were now dillaiir trom the iflc two
miles, and founding timnd only :.; fathoms water. As
wc continued our courJe, wt fa« on this ifland a gre.it
number ot feals ami birds, a Itrong temptation to our
iK-opIc whi) were in want offielh provifionsi and in
hauling round it, we had a llrong ra( e of a i iirrent, like
unbroken water. At length, alter filhing lorthe'bcft
ground, wc (aft anchor in : t fathoms water, about a
mile from the illaml, whieh extended from north iS
d.-g. E. to N. 55 deg. and halfW. The weather
.laving foon after cleared up, we had a fight of i ape St.
John, or the cart end of Staten Land, bearing fouth
75 dog. E. diftant four leagues. Ihe ifland Iheltered
u» from the north wind, and Staten Land from the
UKith. The other ifles lay to the weft, and fecured us
from the north wind ; yet wc were not only own to
the N. F-. and V.. but to the N. W. winds. We might
have avoided this fituation, by anchoring more to the
weft, but the Captain was dcdrous of being near the
illand, and of having it in his |>owerto get to fea with
any wind. In the afternoon a large party of us land-
ed, fome to kill feals, and others birds or filh. The
iftand was fo ftocked with the former, which made fuch
a continual bleating, that wc might have thought our-
felves in Effex, or any other country where cows and
calves are in abundance. Upon examination we found
thcfc animals different from feals, though they refein-
bledthcm in Ibiipc and motion. The male having a
great likencfs to a lion, we called them on that account
lioss. Wc alfo found of the fame kind as the New
Zealand feals. and tliefe we named fea-bears. We
ftiot fome of the large ones, not thinking it fafe to go
near them ; though, in general, they were fo tame, iliat
we knocked fome down with our ftii ks. Here were a
few gcel'e and ducks, and abuiulanre ot penguins
and fti.igs i the latter of which had joung ones ahnoil"
fledged, confeiiutntly '\\\\\ to our tafle. In the even iij.'
ourpartv rcuirned fuf^itien.ly laden with proMtions uj
various ibrts.
On the I fl of January, being Sunday, Mr. Gilbert
was fent out to Staien Lmd, in fearch of . .^
a goiKl harbour, nothing morelifing want- ' ' ' '^'
ing, in the opinion of ("aptain Cook, to make this place
a good port for fbip.i to touch at for rclrelluiunts.
Another party went to bring on bnjid the lieafis wc
Iwd killed the preceding day. l he old lion* aiij
beaiTi were good lor nothing but their blubbei, ot'whu li
we made odi but the tiefh ol'lhe yoiini; ones wc liked
xery well: even the Helh of the old lionelici was
not much amil's; but that of the old iiuilcs was ah 1-
iiiinable. Captain Cook took an (bleivation of the
fun's meridian altitude (his height at noon) at the
N. E. end of this illand, which determined Its latitude
at 54deg. 40min. 5 fee. S. Havin;^ llmt a few gecic,
lijme other birds, and fuppliedouri'clvesplentifully with
young ftiags, wc returned on board in the evening.
About ten 01 lock the party rtttirned from Staten l.and,
where they t()und a good port, in the direction of
north, a little callerly, from the N. E. end of the
FjOern Illand. and diftant three leagues t ) tiic well-
ward of Cape St. John. The marks whereby it may
be known, arc fomcfmall iflands lying in the entrance.
The channel, which is on the call fide of thefc iflands,
IS half a mile broad. The courfe is in S. W. by S. turn-
ing gradually to W. by S. and W. The harbour is
almoll two miles long, and near one broad. The
bottom is a mixture of mud and fand, and hath in it
from I o to 50 fathoms water. I lere are feveral Ilrcams
of fredi water, with good wood for fuel. On this illand
are an innumerable number of fea-giills, the air was
quite darkened with them, upon being difturhed oyour
people ; and when they rofe up, wc were almofl fuf-
loAted with Uieirdung, which they feeined to emit by
way of defence; and it Hunk worfe than what is vul-
garly called Uevil's-duni'. This port was named New-
Year's Harbour, fmm tiie day on wliich it was dif-
( overcd,and is ceininly a v inlets aiul illands, may be compared to the loall of
Nor«a\ i tiir we believe wiihin the extent of three
leagues there is an inlet or harlwiir, which will re-
ceive and llKliir the liift rale lliips ; but, till thefe
.ire belter know 11 cm ry navigator iiuill, as it were, lilh
lor anchorage: add to this, there are feveral roiks on
thecoall; though a» none lie (ar from land, the ap-
proach to iluiu niay 111- l.nown by founding, if they
cannot be Iceii; fo that u|)en the whole, we cannot
think thi^ the dangcrocs mall it has been reprefented by
other sova-'ieis. Staii'ii land is thirty miles in length,
and neaiK twelve broad. Its furfaee eonlillsofcraj'gy
hills, touring up to a v.ilt height, efpccially near the
well end, ami the coall is rotky. 'Ihe grcatell part ol
tlie hills, theii luiiiiuiia excepted, is covered with tieis
ihriibs, and herbage. We cannot fay any thing, that
navigators iiiav dcpenil on, concciniiig the tides and
tiirrents on thel'e coalls ; but we oblerved ilut in
Strait l.e \I; b) keeping out to li.i, ihiy
vouKl avoid the cuncnts. whuh, we are coiuiin cd,
lofc their ftiice at twelve Icaguis tiom land ; aiul at .1
greater d;llaiue they would (ind none to iinpide tlicir
coinfe. We woulil jull atld to thefe nautii ai oblirva-
t;on>, that all the time of our being upon the loall, we
had I'loie calms than (lorms ; the winds were v.uiahle ;
nor ilkl we i\i-.erieiKe any feverecold weather. 'Ihc
mercurv in the thermometer, at nocm, wa^ never below
/)ti deg. and iluring our llav inlhrillmas Sound, it vv.i^
gciierallv aliove temperate.
The illand we landed on, ami the fame mav be fait!
of tlic ncighliouiing illes, is very unlike Staten land.
lt> furfaee i-. ofei.|ual height, having anelevationoi iliiii\
or tortv feet above the lea, from whuh it is fceiired by
a rockv eoall. It is toveied with fword i;iafs, ol a
beautiful ver.lure, and of great kiigth, growing in
tulis, on li;t!e hiilorks. .Among ihife are ihetrackN
cil fea bears and penguins, by wlmh ihcy retire into
the tentre of the ille. 'Ihtfc paths rendered our ex-
lurfifliis rather difagreeable. for wc were foiuetimcs up
10 our knce< in iiurc. Indeed the whole furfaee i»
nioill and wit. I he animals on thisJittle fpot are fea
lions, fea biars, a variety ol Ua low Is, and fomc land
birds. 'I'lie largell lion we law was liiurteen feet long,
and eight or ten in cireumlerence. The back of tlie
head, the net k aiul Ihoulders, arc covered vtith long
hair, like tholi of the lion ; the other p.iris a Imoii,
rcfemlilc iv.inll vurlews. Their piimag.' is vane..
gainl, tlieir bills long and crooktd, .i;h1 t'leir j)riiH i-
j.al loiours ;iie light grev . Ml tlie aiiiii.als ol this
iuiie Ipi I live in p( rieci hanuoir. , and I'd 111 laicful
not to iliiliirb e.ii h other', trani|u.lli;y. The fea lions
pcilltis Uioll of the fea loall j the bears tike up their
tjuarteis within the ille; the flags lodge in [he hij'.ialt:
ilill>; the [Hiiguins liavi tluii fei'aiate abode where
tlicie i.> the moll caly comii.uiiit ation to and liom the
fea ; ami the otlur bints have their plates of leCiie-
mi nt ; yet we have obtirved tlum all, with muMal
iv.-oiu li. nieiu, mi.\ togetlur, like ilomellie cattle ami
poiiltiv in a larm-vaul: nay we have fecii il-.e t.ig! ?s
.iiul vukure-. li:r:ng together aiioiig tie llwgi, tin iluir
liillo' ks, without the lattr;-, either young 01 oKi, beiii;;
dilU ilkd at llieir prcfeiii c.
It will be icMiemlKieil, that wc left Staten llland on
the jti, and this day, being W cilnefday the .jth, we faw
tl-,e lanti again, at three oclock A. M. and at ti\ i)'..lcn. k
in the atternoon a heavy Kjuall came lo fuddeniy upon
us, that itcarrietl away a to])-gallant-mall, a lliulding-
fail boom, anil a tore lludding-fail. This endeil in a
heavy ihower of rain; and we now fleercl S. W. in
order to dikovcr the gulph of St. .Seballian, if fuch a
eoall ixilteil, in w hu h that gulph h.-is been lepiefenied,
Itirof till, we ( iitiitained a doubt; however, this ap-
peared to Ik- the bell courfe to t lear it up, and tf> ex-
plore the liiuthern part of thisotean. On the ^tli.by
obfervation, we were in l.'.titude c,- deg. 1) iiiiii. and
5 tleg. : m:n. b'.. longitude from Cape St. John. Cw the
6th, at eight o'clock in the evening, we were in lati-
tutle 5S deg. 9 min. S. and « j deg. t .) iii'ii. W . the
litiiation, nearlv. alTigned for the S. \\ . point of the
gulph ol St. .Seballian ; but feeing no ligns of land, wc
were Hill tloiilitliil of itscxillcBti ; and fetig alio tear-
ful, that bv kte()ing to the louili, we might mils the
laml fiidto be difcoveretl bv l.a Koche in i()7s,and by
thelhip I I in, in 175,6 ; liir ifele realoi'.s we i-.auled tO
the north, in onlcr to get into the parallel laid ilown by
Dalrvniple as loon as poliibie. On the ;ih, we were,
ncai midnight, in the latitude ol :i> deg. 4 min. S.
longitude 5_< tltg. ■{(> min. W. On ilie Sth, at noon, a
be.' f fca-wetd palletl the thip ; ami in the afternoon
we were in latitude cj deg. 4 min. longitude 51 ileg.
45 min. On Mondav, the t^ih, we taw a fcal, and
fea-wttd. On the loih, t twooV'ofk A. M. we Ixirc
away call, and at eigiit 1.. N. \i. At noon, by obfer-
vation. we were in latitude C4 deg. jj nun. S. and in
47 deg. 56 min. W. longitude. We had at this time a
great tuunbvx 0] albaiiolfts and blue petereis about the
f- ftip.
illii's ; lor
L' up ilu-ir
t wlitn wc
ay. 'Ihii
iiphibioi: '
doMd .1:i
; Mi»i vciy
.11 in uuiic
ncs. Here
ncils near
: a fiiialL-r
the rocks.
Chiilhiias
inoifc ex-
)!' the fort
Ih'iI tliirty
tern, I'ort
(.jooil cat-
l.iiul birds
.idcil vul-
iirds. 'I'wo
■ our n;mi-
I pluiiiaj^c
:n uc tirrt?
•r fimw pc-
md lolour.
ily to their
ly pick lip
Jis a Ikiuii,
• IS \arii.'.-
Kir j>riiu i-
..ils oi this
Mil (aitliil
R' I'tM lions
ke vp their
ihc-lii-JKlf
jode « here
d iVoin the
■s ol' retire-
vith iiiiitiial
c cuitle and
II tl'.e i.i(;l(?s
(^'!, nil liieir
I old, being
.*n I (land on
.|th, Me law
II li\ I)'', loi. k
.Ideiiiy ujion
a l\iuldiiig-
, ended in a
el S. W. ill
in, it liieh a
rcinelenied,
er, this ap-
1, and to cx-
11 the nth. by
1) iiim. and
[ohn. C.i\ the-
«cie in lati-
lu'ii. \V. the
[oint ol' the
isot' land, \\c
:^\^)I, alio t'car-
lijllu mils the
I 167s, and by
ue haiiied ti>
i laid d(i\\n by
■;lh, v\e were,
v^. 4 nun. S.
iih, at noon, a
the arteinoon
;itude 51 dej;.
\v a leal, and
A. M. we bore
oon, by ob'er-
iiiin. S. and in
dat this time a
;ert!s about the
h'
'M'
(.!■ .'-'I --
:1
I m
'A^, -
COOK'i SECOND VOYAGE— for making Difcovcries in the SoutliSeas Sx. Round the lyorld. 1 87
ii "
\
(hip. Wc now (leered due eslli and on the nth,
were in latitude 54 deg. 38 min. longitude 4$ dcg. 10
min. W. On the 1 ath, being Thurfday, we (leered
call northerly; and at noon obfervcd in latitude 54 dcg.
38 min. S. and in 43 deg. 8 min. W. longitude, which
is near \ dcg. E. of the fttuation, laid down b^ Mr.
Dalrym'pic lor the N. V.. |»int of thcgulph of St. Sc-
baftian; but wc had no other intiiiutiona of land,
thanfecinj a fcal, and a few penguins ; and wc had a
fvvcll fmiu lu S. E. which we think umild not have
been, had any cxtcnlivc track of land lay in that di-
rc^^ion. On Friday, the i i;th, wc ftood to the fouth
till noon, when finding ourlclvcs in latitude 55 dcg.
7 min. wc llrctthcd to the north. Wc now faw le-
vcral penguins and a fnow pcicrcl, which wc judged
to denote the vicinity of ice. Wc allu found the air
much colder than we had felt it lincc wc left New
Zealand. In the night wc Hood to ilie N. K. On Sa
turd.iy, the 14th, at twoo'clock, F. M. m latitude 53'
dcg. 56 min. 30 fee. S. and in longitude 39 dcg. 24
min. W. wc dilcovcrcd land, in a manner wholly co-
vered with fnow. Wc foumlcd in one hundred and fc-
vcnry-fivc fathoms, mudily bottom. 'I he land bore
E. by .'>. dirtant twelve leagues. On the 15th, the wind
blew in fijiialls attended with fnow and licet, and wc
h;ul a<;rcat fca to encounter. At pall lour 1'. M. we
flood to the S. W. under two courlts 1 but at nildnif^ht
the llorin abated, (o that wc could carry our toj<-laiU
double reefed. t)a the i6th, at four o'clock, A. M.
we llooiJ to the cal>, with a iiHKlerate breeze, and at
eipht fa-v the land extemliiig liom E. by N. to N. E.
by N. At mion, by obfcrvaiion, wc were in latitude
<4 dcg. 25 min, 30 fee. and in jSdcg. 18 min. W.
wngitudc. li.c land was now alwut eight leagues
dilVanr. It proved to be an illand, and wc called it
Willis IdanJ, from the name of the perfun who lirll
difvovcrcd it from the mall head. It is a high rock
of no great extent. Wc bore up to it with a view of
exulormg the northern coart j and as we advanced per-
ceived another iflc to the north, between that and the
main. Obferving a clear pallagc iKtwccn both we
flecicd for the fame, and in the midway founti it to be
two miles broad. Willis's illc is in the latitude of 54
dcg. S. and in 38 dcg. 23 min. W. longitude. The
other, which was named Bird Illand, a number of
fowls bcinu iVin upon the loaft, is not fo higli, but
more excenlivc 1 and is near the N. E. point of the
main laiul, which (.'apt. Cook named Cape North.
Wc law li-vcial maHe.'; of fnow, or ite, in the IxMtoms
of lomc bay.s on the S. E. coall of this land, particu-
larly in one which lies about three leagues to the -S. S.
K. of Bird ifle. On Monday, the 16th, having got
through the pafTagc, w c obfervcd the north coall trciuleil
E. by N. for about three leagues, and then F.. and E.
by S. to Cape Buller, which is eleven miles. We
nuigcd tlic coaft till near night, at one Iciguc dillancc,
when on founding we found liftj' fathoms, and a muddy
bottom. On the 17th, at two o'clock, A. M. we
made f.>r the land. Wc now fleered along ftiore till
fevcn, when, feeing the appearance of an inlet, wc
hauled in Ibr it. The cajitain accompanied by Mr.
ForOcr, and others went oH in a boat, to reconnoitre
I ? bay before wc vcnti.id in with the Ihip. They
landed m th'ce dini'icnt places, difplayed our colours,
and took polFcHion of the country in his majclh's
name. The hiad of rlic bay was terminated by ice-
clitFs of confukrablc height ; pieces of which were
continual!, brcakipp oil", uhich made a noifc like a
t.innon. Nor were the interior |>arts of the country
Kij horrible. Tl.t: favarri rtxks i.iircil their lofty fum-
iiii(.s till loll ii'. the clouds, and valleys were covered
w itli iLcn.ingiy p.-rpi.tual fnow. Not a tree, nora (hrulj
of any Ib.c ^^■c•re 10 be ii en. The only figns of vege-
tation were a Ihong bla led grafs, growing in tutts,
wild burnet, and a plant like inofs. fecn on the rocks,
iiea-bci'fs, or feals, were numerou : ne fliores fw armed
wiih young cubs. Here were alfo the largcft jko-
piins wc ha«l yet fecn. Some wc brought aboard
weighml above thirty pounds. We found the fame
^a-fuwL as at the lall il.ands aJfo divers, the new
?
white birda, and fnudl onei, rcfcmbling thufe at the
Cape of Good Hope, called yellow birds, which, hav-
ing Ihot two, wc found molt delicioua morfcls. Wc
faw no other land birds than a few fmall larks, nor did
we meet with any quadrupeds. The rocks borderinu
on the ri*a were not covered with fnow like the inland
partSj and they feemed to contain iron ore. When the
party returned aboard, they brought with them a quan-
tit) of feals and iienguim. Not that wc wanted provi-
lioni but any kind of freOi meat was acceptable to
the crew j and even Capt. Cook acknowledged, that
he was now, for the hrfl time, heartily tired of fait
diet of every kind ; and that though the Helh of pen-
gtiins could fcarcly be compared to bullocks liver, yet its
being frtlh was luff.cient to make it palatable. The
captain named the bay he hadfurveycd, Polfcllion Ikiyj
though according to his account of it, we think it to
be no dclirabic appendage to his majelly's new pof-
fcllions. It lies in latitude 54 dcg. 5 min. S. and in
37 dcg. 18 min. W. eleven le.\gues tothecaftof f'apc
iSoith. To the weft of roli'.irion Bay, and between
that and Cape Hullcr, lies the Bay of' IMes, fo called
from the number of fmall illes lying before and
in it.
On Tuefday, the 17th, wc made fail to the eaft,
along the coartj the ducclion of which from Cape
Biillcr, is 72 deg. 30 min. E. for the fpace of twelve
leagues, to a projecting point, which was named C.ipe
Saunders. Beyond this is a pretty large bay> which
obtained the name of Cumberland Biiy. At the bot-
tom of this, as alfo in fomc other fmallcr ones, were
vail tracks of frozen ice, or fnow, notyct broken loofe.
Bcinj^ now jud part Cumberland Bay, we hauled oil" the
coalt, from w hence wc were diflant about four miles.
On the I Kth, at noon, by obfervation, we were in lati-
tude 54 deg. 30 min. S. and about three leagues from
the coart, which I'.rctchcd from N. 59 dcg. W. to S.
13 deg. W. In this direction the land was an iflc,
which fccmcd to be the extremity of the coaft to the
call. At this time the nearcft land was a proje: :<■■
:,■ 'm
> > I
'',! >... 1 ill
I
1 88
Capt. C O O K $ VOYAGES C O M !• L E T K.
wc had (een, and taken the bearin(; ol°, the day We firll
came in with it, and left ti* not a finglc doubt, that
thii land which we had taken for part of a great con-
tinent, was no more than an inanii, aio inilc* in cir-
cuit. Wc thought it very extraordinar)',that an iOand
hotu'cen the latitude of 54 and 5; degrees, lliould, in
the ver>' height of fuiniiicr, be ainioll wholly covered
with fn>zen I now, in foinc places many fathoms deepi
but more efiKcially the S. W. coall. Nay, the very
Men of the lofty mountains, were cafcd with ice ; but
the quantity of ice and fnow that lay in the vallcyi ia
incredible, and the bottom* '"-f the liavi were bouniicd
by walls of ice of a confidt rablc height. We arc of
opinion, that a great deal of the ice formed here in
w inter, is broken olV in fpring, and Hoats into the lea :
but we queftion, wheihcr a ten thoufandth part oi what
wc faw is produced in this ifland ; from whence we
are led to conclude, that the land wc had fcen the day
bt-fore might Inrlong to a more extcnlive track; and we
Hill had hopes of difcovering a continent. As to our
prefcnt difapjmintment, wc were not much alfeCh-d
thereby; for, were we to judge of the whole by this
fainple, whatever its extent might be, it would be un
acquilition fcan ely worth notice. This inhofpitablc,
and dreary land, lies between the latitudes of 5 { liv^.
57 mm. and 54 deg. 57 min. S. and between 38 dcjr.
13 min. and .^5 deg. 34 min. W. longitude. We
named this the Ifle of (ieorgia, in honour of his Ma-<
jerty. Itextcnds S. K. by h. and N. W. by W. and is
9{ miles lot^, and about 10 broad. 'I'hcN.K. coaft
appears to have a niimlwr of bays, but the ice mull
prevent accefs to rhem |hc greatell part of the year ;
and at any time they will be dangerous harbours, on
account of the continual breakingaway of the icecliHs.
We are inclined to think, that the interior parts, on
account ot their elevation, never enjoy heat enough to
melt the (now in fuch quantities as to produce a river ;
nor (lid we lind even a Ihcam of frelh water on the
whole coad ; ami the N. K. liilcof this, only receives
fuftiricnt warmth to melt the fnow. Wc now quitted
this coatV, and directed our courfe to the E. S. K. for
the land we had lien the preceding day, A flrong
gale overtook us, and wc thought ourfelves very toitu.
natc in having got clear of the land before this came
on.
On the 21ft, the ftorm wai fucreeded by a thick
fog, attended with rain ; but having got a foutherly
brce/e, we ftoo<1 to the eatt till three in the ai'ternoon 1
and then ftcered north in fearch of the land. On the
2 2d, we had thick fi>ggy weather ; but in ihe c-cning
it was ft clear that we could fee two leagues round
u* i and thinking we might be to the call of the land,
«e (leered wed.
On the 23d, a thick fog at llx o'cock, A. M. once
more C(im|x-lled us to haul the wind to the (iiuth ; but
at eleven, w e were favoured w ith a \ icw ol three or (iuir
riKky ifliKs, extending fn>m S. K. to l-'.. N. l-'.. alxnit one
league didant ; and this, being the extcntofour horizon,
might be the reafon why we did not fee the fugar-lcuf
peak belore mentioiuil. We were well aflured, this
was the land we had (ccn before, and which we had
now circuinnavigateil ; condlling of only a few de-
tached r(Kks, the receptu les for birds. They are fili-
ated in latitude 5; dii|^ S. 12 leagues (roiii Cooper'i
l(le, and we named them Clerk's Kocks, Mr. Clerk, one
of our lieutenants having lii II ilifcov( red them. I hu
interval of dear weather was (iiccecded by as thick a
(cij; as ever, on which we (looil to the north. Thus
we were undings, iitid faw
not aii\ diags.
On the 24th, we f.iw the rocks braring S. S. W. half
\V.di(lant lour miles, but wc did not (lill lee ihe fugar-
loaf peak. A: lour o'lloi k, I'. M.judj^ing ourlelvvs to
be three or lour leaj:;uc.s K. and \V. ot them, wc deercd
fouth, being i)uiie lircil w ith cmi/ing in thick fogs, only
to have a li^lit ot ;i lew (Ira^^gling rocks. Having, at
intervals, a dculky to the weft, at (even o'clock we faw
the illc of (Jeorgia, bearing W. N. W. didant eight
leagues: at eight we llcend S. K. by S. and at tenS.
h.. by li.
set-
I
CHAP.
IX.
1*- i
;i^ I
■]'l.v Rifttiition roiilt'iitfs Ivr itiHrfe-—Nrtdiind anJ SMUtJcrs f/k< liifcffirrfj — Cjnji;1mrs, and fomc rc/ifiin thiil tbnr m.iy ht
liiiiJ alxiul ihi- South Poir — Tbf Rrfolulnn ,iUers Lvr conyfi foiilh to ibc i\ijl — EiiJfiivnurs to fin.l (Upc Cirrumn/ion — (J/>.
Ji rtaiimu on ivhatjbe hid doiif in llw vmi<(f — I'roardinj^i till hrr arrnal ,ii the C.tp ■ o/'(l)jJ Hope— Sails for ih- ijU of
. Fi!\id—A>id tvtitfit.' to Eti^ltind — Capt. hurnrain's narialiiv, fim tbr tinir ll.v .Lhrntuiv K'./v j'tparatcd from ihi- Rifu-
tuti'jn, to btr arrival in Enj^lanJ, iiuiiding ibt rtpirt of Lnut. liurnry, tcnummf^ tbf untimrh death rf Ibe boat's- ere 'M
•U'bo "were murd red hy/ome "/ the natives 0/ intern Charlotte's Sound, in Ack' Zealand.
uml
0\ Wednefday the 2 ah. we dcered K. S. E. We
had a iVeili gale at N. N. E. but the \ieather Hill
ct)ntinued foggy, till towards the evening, at which
time it Heared up. On the 26th, we held on ourcoiirfe
w ith a tine gale liom the N. N. \V. but at day-light,
feeing iH> land to the cad, and being in latitude 56 deg.
3} mm. S. and in 31 deg. 10 min. W. longitude, we
idecrfd fouth. On the ;7th, at noon, wc were In the
latitude of 59 deg, 46 min. S. and had fo thick a fog
ThatwecouKI not fee a Ihip's length. Wc expciled
foon to fall in with the ice, and on this account, it being
no longer fale to fail before the w ind, wc hauled to the
call with a gentle gale at N. N. IC, When .nc fog
cleared away, we refumcd our courfe to the fouth; but
it returned again, which obliged us to haul upon a
wind. }iy our reckoning we were now in the latitude
of 60 deg. S. and unlets we difcovcrcd f. uie certain
ligns of loon falling in with land, the Captain deter-
mined to nvike this the limit of his voyage to the
fouth. Indeed it would not have been prudent to have
tquandercd away time in proceeding farther to the
fouth, when there was as great a probability of finding
a large crack of lanti near Cape Ciaui»cilion. Befides
it was an irkfunic talk to travcrfe in high fwithem lati-
tudcs, where nothing was to be difcovcrcd but i( c. At
this time a long hollow fwell from the wed, indicated
that no l.md w ai to be cxpciileil in fuch a direction ; and
upon the whole, we may venture to alfcrt, that the cx-
tenfivc coaft laid down by Mr. Dalrymplc, and his
Gulphof St. Sebaftian, do not exid. The fog having
receded from us a little, at feven o'clock in the evening,
we faw an ice-idand, penguins, and fnow pctcrels. In
the night, being vilitcd with a return of the log, wc
were obliged to go over again that fpace which wc
had, in fomc degree, made ourfelves acijuainted with
in^the day.
On the 28th, at eight o'clock, A. M. wc dood^-w
the cad, with a gent^ breeze at nouh. The weather
cleared away, and wc perceived the fca llrcwcd with
large and fmall bodies of ice. Some whales, penguins,
fnow pctcrels, and other birds were fcen. We had
now fun-(bine, but the air was cold. At noon, by oh^
fervation, wc were in 60 deg. 4 min. S. and in 29 deg,
23 min. W. longitude. At half paft two o'clock,
having continued our courfe to the eaft, wc fuddenly
fell in w ith a vaft number of large icc-Wlands, and a
fea ftrewcd with loofe ice, and the waather becoming
hazy, made it dangerous to ftand in among them.
We
COOK'i SECOND VOYAGE— for making Di/toverui in the StutA Seat & Round tlit ff^orM. 1 89
-U u t-
We therefore wclccd. »nd ftcwd back to the weft, with
the wind at north. Wc were now (iirroundcd with ice •
ifland*. ail nearly of an equal height, with a flat level
furface ; but of varioua extent. The loofc ice, with
which the fca appeared ftrewed, had broke from thefe
illM. ^
On Sunday the 19th, havinff little wind, we were
obliged to travcrfc in ftich courlci, a» wore moft likely
to cany ui clear of them, fothat wc hardly made any
progreft, one way or other, throughout the whole day.
The weather wai fair, but remarkably gloomy, and wc
were vifited by penguins and whales in abundance.
On the 10th, we tacked and ftood to the N. E. and
almoft tnroughout 'he day if was foggv, with either fleet
or fnow. At noon wc were in latituac 59 dcg. jomin.
S. and in 29 dcg. 24 min. W. At two o'clock, pafftd
one of the largcft ice-iflands we had fcen during our
voyage ; and Tome time after two fmallcr ones. We
no* ftood to N. E. over a fea ftrewed with ice. On the
Jlift we (iifcovcrcd land a-hcid, diftant about one
caguc. Wc hauled the wind to the north i but not be-
ing able to weather it, we tacked in 175 fathoms water,
a league from thcilrore, and about half aone from foine
breakers. This land confifted of three rocky iflots of
conliderablc height. The outmoft terminated in a
loft) peak, like a fugar-loaf, to which we gave the name
of rreezland Peak, after the man who (irft difcovcrcd
it. The latitude is 59 deg. S. and 17 dcg. W. longi-
tude. Totheeaft of this peak, was fcen ?n elevated
coaft, whofc fnow-cap'd fummits wire above tiir clouds.
It extended from N. by E. to E. S. E. and wc named
it Cape Briftol, in honour of the nublc family of
Harvey. Alfo in latitude 50 deg. 1 3 min. jofec .S. and
in 17 dcg. 4j min. W. another elevated coaft appeared
fh fight, bearing S. W. by S. and at noon, it extended
from S. E. to S. S. W. diftani from fourto eight leagues.
This land we called Southern Thule, bccaufe the moft
fouthcm thai has yet been difcovcrcd. Its furface rifcs
high, and is every where covered with fnow. There
were thofe of our company, who thought they faw
land in the fpace between Thule and C.ipc nriftol.
We judged it more than probable that thefe two lands
arc ronnedled, and the fpace is a deep biy, which,
though thefe arc mere fuppofitions, was rallcil Forfter's
Bay. Being not able to weather Southern Thule, we
t:irkc(l and ftood to the north, at one o'clock, and at
four I'reezland Peak was diftant four Icigucs. Soon
after the wind fell, and wc were left to the n\ercy of a
frcat weftcrly fwell, which fct right upon the ftiorc 1
ut at eight o'clock, the weather clearing up, we faw
Cape Briftol. which bore E. S. E. ending in a point to
the north, beyond which we coulJ fee no land. Thus
we were relieved from the fear of being carried away by
the f'.vcll, and caft on the moft horrible coaft in the
world , \\'e continued our courfc to the north all night,
with a light breeze at weft.
On Wednefday the firft of February, at four o'clock
in the morning, we had a view of a new coaft. At lix
it Iwrc north 60 dcg. E, and being a high promontory,
wc named it Cape Montague. It is fituatcd in latitude
58 deg. 27 min. S. and in 26 deg. 44 mir , W. longi-
tude ; eight leagues to the north of Cape Buftol. We
. faw land in fcvcral places between them, whence we
concluded the whole might be connedled. We wifli it
had been in our power to have determined this with
greater certainty, but prudence would not permit the
attempt, nor to venture near a coaft the dangers of
w hich have been already fufliciently pointed out. One
icc-ifland, among many othrn on this coaft, particu-
larly attradkd our notice. It was level in furface, of
great extent both in hcitht and circuit, and its fides
were perpendicular, on wnich the waves of the fea had
not made the leaft impreftion. We thought it might
have come out from fomc bay in the coaft. At noon
we were eaft and weft of the northern p.irt of Cape
Montague, diftant five leagues. Freczland Peak was
1 2 leagues, and bore fouth 1 6 deg. E. By obfervation
we found our latitude to be 58 deg. 25 min. In the
afternoon, at two o'clock, when ftandingtothe north
wc faw land, which bore north 25 deg. L, It cxtcnd-
No. 22.
ed from north ao deg. to 5a dcg. E. and it was imagined
more land lay oeyond it to the eaft. Cape Montague
at this time bore fouth 66 deg. E. at eight 40 dcg. and
Cape Briflol S. bf E-
On the 3nd. at flx o'clock A. M. having ftecrrd to
the north during the night, new land was difcovered,
bearing north 1 3 deg. E. diftant 1 o leagues. We fa w two
hummocki jull above the horizon, of w hich we foon
loft fight. We now flood, having a frefii breeze at
N. N. E. for the norrhernmoft land wc had fecn the
preceding day, which, at this time, bnrc E. S. E.
by ten o'clock we fetched in with it, but not having
it in our power to weather the fame, we tacked at three
miles from the coaft. This extended from U. by S.
to S. E. and appeared to be an ifland of about 10
leagues circuit. The furfiicr was high, and its limmit
loft in the clouds. Like all the neighbouring lands,
it was covered with a fticet of fnow and ire, except on
a point on the north fide, and on two hills fcen over it,
which probably were two iflands. Thefe were not only
clear of fnow, but feemcd covered with green turf Wc
faw alfo large ice-iftands to the fouth, and others to the
N. E. .At noon we tacked for the land again, in
order if jwAfiblc to determine whether it was an ifland 1
butn thick fog foon prevented the difcovery, by making
it unfafc to ftand in for the (hore ; fo that having re-
turned, we Mcked and ftood to N. W. to make the
land we had fcen in the morning. Wc left the other
under the fuppofition of its Ixing an iftand, and named
it Saunders Iflc, after Cnpt. Cook's honuurabic friend
Sir Charles Saunders. It lies in latitude 57 dcg. 49
nun. S. and in 26 deg. 44 min. W. longitude, diflunt
13 leagues from Cape Montague. The wind having
fliiftcd at fix o'clock, wc ftood to the north ; and at
eight we faw Saunders Ifland, extending from S. E.
by S. to E. S. E. Wc were ftill in doubt if it were an
illand, and could not at this time clear it up, as wc
found it neccftary to take a view of the land to the
north, before we proceeded any farther to the ea(h
With this intent we ftood to the north, and on the 3d,
at t;\o o'clock A. M. wc came in fight of the land wc
were fearching after, which proved to be two iflei.
On account ol the dav on which they were difcovcrcd,
we called them Candlemas I Acs. 'They lie in latitude
57 deg. 1 1 min. S. and in 27 deg. 6 min. W. longitude.
Between thefe wc obfervcd a fmall rock ( there may
perhaps be others ; for the w eather being hazy occafion-
ed us to tofc fight of the iflands, and we did not ftv
them again till noon, at which lime they were three or
four leagues oft'. We were now obliged, by reafon of
the wind having veered to the fouth, to ftand to the
N. E. and at midnight came fuddenly into water un-
commonly while, at which appearance the officer on
watch was Co much alarmed, that he immediately or-
dered the ftiip to be put about, and we accordingly
tacked inftantly. There were variou-s opinions aboaid
concerning this matter 1 probably it might be a flioal of
fifti ; but fomc faid it was a flioal of ice ; and otbcrj
thought it was fliallow water.
On Sunday the 4th, at two o'clock, A. .M. wc rc-
fiimed our courfc to the eaft, and at lix tried if there
were any current, but found none. At this time fomc
whales were playing, and nuiiibcrs of penguins retcd, or conncdcd with earth, Mhich
iiuifl nrccflarily adhere to it, were ihia cunjedurc
tnic. Furthermore, we arc not certain whether there
arc any rivcro in thefc countriei, a« we Taw neither rivcra
nor Hreaini of frcfli water there. Hie ice-inantla, at
leal) in thofe part*, mul) be formed from fnow and fleet
conliilidated, uhich gather* by degree*, and are drifted
from the iiirMintains. In the winter, the fcan or the ice
clilft n)ull iill up the bay*, if they arc ever fo lur^e.
I'he continual fall of I'now occalion* the accumulation
of thefc cliHs, till they can fupport their wciuht no
longer, and large pieces break otf from thefc icc-illands.
We are inclined to believe, that thefc ice clifT*, where
they are llieltcrcd from the violence of the winds,
extend a great way into the fea.
On the 5th. having (ben no penguin*, we thought
that we were leaving land behind us, and that we hud
pafled it* northern extremity. At noon we were j dcg.
of longitude, to the cad ofSaundcrii' lllciandbyob-
fervition in the latitude of 57 dcg. 8 min. S. and in
3.1 dcg. 34 nun. W. longitude. In the afternoon we
again lUetchcd to the fouth, in order that wr might
again fall in with the land, if it took an caO JinVtion.
On Monday the 6th, we held on our courfc till the
7th at noon, when we lound our latitude to Iv cs dcg.
T 5 min. S. and longitude zi dcg. 34 min. W. nul not
feeing any ligns of land, wc concliHled, that what hail
been denominateii .Sandwich liind, wa&eithera group
ofillandt. or a point of the continent : for in Capt.
Cook's opinion, the ice that i* fpread over this vail
Southern Ocean, mufl originate in a track of land,
which he firmly believes lies near the pole, and cxtendii
farthcll to the north, oppolitc the Southern Atlantic
and Indian Oceans : for ice being found in thefc fnithcr
to the north, than any where ell'e, induced the (^iptain
to conclude, that land of confiderablc extent inuft cxill
near the fouth. Upon a contrary fuppofition it will
follow, that wc ought to fee ice every where under the
fame p.-irallcl ; but few fliip* have met with ice going
round Cajx; Horn; and for our part, wc faw hut little
below the fixticth degree of latitude in the .Southern
Pacific Ocean ; on the other hand in this fea, between
the meridian of 40 dcg. W. and fifty or fixty degrees
tall, «c li)und ice as liir north as j i deg. Others nave
IccH it in a much lower latitude. Ia.! 11:, iu)vv rup|V)fe
there i.s a Southern Continent within the polar circle.
The quell ion which readily (KCirs, will be; What end
«.in be anfwered in difcovcring or exploring fuch a
I o:<.rt .' Or what life can the l^iinc bt; cither to navigation,
geography, or any other Itience,' And what Ijcnelits
can rehilt therefrom to a coinmcicial ftatc.' Conlider
for a moment, what thick foj;s, fnow, flonns, intenfe
cold, and every thing dangerous to navigation, muft be
encountered w ith by every hard)r advcn"irer ; behold
the horrid afpeiil oi' a country impenctrabie by the
animating heat of the fun's raysj a country doonied to
be immerfed ii; cverlafting fnow. See the iflands and
flouts on the coafi, and the continual falls of the ice
clilFs in th" jxyrts : thefc difficulties, whiih might be
heightened b) others nof Icfs dangerous, are fuflicient
tnia, extend.s from Ch'li ami I'aragiiay to the utiiioit
extremity of .South America, that is, from {;; aliiioll tu
54 degrees of finith kititude, being 700 miles long,
ami {oo broad where widell. I'he northern parts con-
tain an almofi inexh.iiilliblc Hock of large limber, but
in the l()uthern diftric'ls there is fcarrcly a tree to lie
feen (it fntaneouf1y.
This country aboumls with an animal called camel-
fheep by foinc authors, but theirtnic name is guanacoes.
They partake of the nature of a camel, though they
have no bunch on the back, and thrv were fclrmerly
made ufe of to carry burdens. They li.ivc alio a bird
called an oftrich, but not fo large, ami they diflL-r froiti
the African oftrichcs in having three toes, whereas thole
have but two. A great nunmer of iflands, or clulkr*
of illands, lie on the coaftsof Patagonia.
The ifland of Terra del Fuego, or the Land of Fiics,
as it was called by the firft difcoverers. on account of
their having obferved fome great lircs upon it (fup|)ofed
to be volcanoes) as they palfcd it in the night, is kpa~
rated from the continent by the Magellanic Straights <
has a rough appearance, being very mountainous, but is
interft^flcd with deep narrow vallies, and is well
watered. The natives of this country arcftiort in their
pcrfons, not exceeding five feet llx iiKhes at moft, their
heads large, their faces broad, their cheek-bones very
prominent, and their nofes very flat. I'hcy have little
brown eyes, without life; their hair is black and lank,
hanging about their heads in difordcr, and befme.-kreJ
with train oil. On the chin they have a few ftraggling
(hort hairs inftcadofa beard, and fiom their nofc ihcic
n rriiiii tite
ihi'ik of
ICll loHUlT,
the (Viirvv
an) hcmhI
iMicil : wc
, inuiulinj;
icilion, ai\tt
re Wf ton-
ay not l'^
tioiiii t'roin
iiita, I'aia^
Ihuits, (ho
lllaiuls.
IVkIim.uhI
^^»\^■ n.iiin:
iilh to the
MII'Jl tlu-iii.
oil) a prin-
Htiij, The
wv ol I'aia-
the utinolt
^ aliiiol) lu
iiilcs lui)^,
I parts cou-
tiiiibcr, btic
tree to hi."
olty moiin-
mtury truiii
irncJ cattle
licr by the
te pafturago
:tii water is
fee how tho
cattle could
th few or no
of the belt.
fevcral In-
[)11are«, &c.
if a copper
coarfe bhtck
addidtcd to
n their tacea
having only
nude of tha
, which they
)ld weather;
wit on their
at nionllrout
o lalicr than
other placet,
\\rhicn they
e on lifli ami
lontaneoully.
illed cameU
is ).',uanacue3.
ihouijh they
ere (cfriuerly
e alio a bird
y diller from
vhereas tholb
s, or clurtert
.and of Fires,
n account of
n it (lup|)ofcd
lipht. is fep -
nic Straights j
[ainous. but is
and is well
:ftiort in their
at m«H\, their
[rk-bones very
hey have little
ac|( and lank,
,nd befnicarcJ
few ftriggling
icir nofc there
i»
"?»
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
1.1
■ii|21 125
■^ Uii 12.2
lU
14.0
||0
li
•
|L25 |||,.4 |,.6
^
6"
►
Hiotographic
Sdences
Corporalion
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) S72-4S03
^ .^%
K^
Z
^
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(
■ If;
cook's second VO VAGB— for making Di/coveries in the South Seas 6c Round the JVorlJ. 1 9 1
ii a conftant difchargc of mucus into their wgly open
mouth. The whole alTeittblage of their features fprins
the moft loathfomc pidurc of mifcry and wretchednefs
to which human nature can polTibly be rcduccdi jThiy
had no other cloathin^ than afmall piece of feaUfkin. ;
which hung from their (houlders to the middle of the
back, being faftcned round the necic with a ftring. The
reft of their body was pcrfcdlly naked, not the Icaft re-
gard being paid to acccncy. Their natural colour
Icems to be an olive-brown, with a kind of glofs re-
fembling that of copper ; but many of tliem difguifc
themfelves with ftreaks of red paint, and fometimes,
though feldom. with white. Their whole charadcris
the urongeft compound of ftupidity, indifference, and
inadlivity. Thev have no other arms than hows and ar-
rows, and their mftruments for fifhing a kind of iifli-
gags. They live chiefly on feals flefli, and like the fat
oily part moft. There is no appearance of any fubor-
dination among them, and their mode of living ap-
proaches nearer to' that of brutes, than that ot any
other nation. The children go naked, and the nnlv
weapon of the men is a long ftick generally hooked,
and pointed at the end like a lance. They live in huts
made of boughs, and covered with mud, branches,
&c. One fide is open, and the fire place is in the mid-
dle : and a whole family herd together in one of thcfe
miferablc hovels.
The above-mentioned iflands are all very barren and
mountainous; but from what Mr. Forfter fays, in his
voyage to the South Sea, the climate would not appear
to be fo rigorous and tempefhious as it is ropreiented
in Anfon's voyage. Upon the lower grounds and
iflands, that were (heltered by the high mountains, fe-
veral forts of trees and plants, and a variety of birds,
were found. Among the trees, was Winter's bark-
tree, and a fpecies of arbulus, loaded with red fruit
of die fize of fmall cherries, which were very well
tafted. In fome places there is alfo plenty of celeri.
Am^ng the birds was a fpecies of duck of the fize of
a goofe, which ran along the fea with amazing velocity,
beating the water with its wings and feet : it had a grey
plumage, with a yellow bill and feet, and a few white
quill feathers : at the Falkland iflands it is called a log-
gerhead duck. Among the birds are alfo plenty of
geefe and falcons. The rocks of fome of the iflands
are covered with large mufcle-fhells, the fifh of which
is faid to be more' delicate than oyfters.
Falkland's iflands were firft difcovcred'in 1 594, by
Sir Richard Hawkins, who named the principal of
them Hawkins' Maidcniand, in honour of queen Eli-
zabeth. The prefent name Falkland was probably
given them by Capt. Strong, in 1689, and afterwards
adopted by Halley.
"The late lord Egmont, firft lord c." the Admiralty
11111764, then revived the fcheme of a fettlement in
the South Seas ; and commodore Byron was fcnt to
take pofTeffion of Falkland's iflands in the name of his
Britannic majcfty, and in his journal reprefents them
as a valuable acquifition. On the other hand, they arc
rcprcfcntcd by Capt. M'Bride, who in 1766 fuccceded
that gentleman, as the outcafts of nature : " We
found (fays he) a map of iflands and broken lands, of
which the foil was nothing but a bog, with no better
profpedl than that of barren mountains, beaten by
ftorms almoft perpetual. Yetthis is fummer; and if
the winds of winter hold their natural proportion, thofc
who lie but two cables length from the Ihore, muft pafs
weeks without any communication with it." The
herbs and vegeublcs .vhich were planted by Mr. By-
ron's people; and the fir-tree, a native of rugged and
cold climates, had withered. In the fummer-months,
wild celeri and forrel are the natural luxuries of thefe
iflands. Goats, fheep, and hogs that were carried
hither, were found to increafc and thrive as in other
placet. Geefe of a fifliy tafte, fnipcs. penguins, foxes,
and fea^ions, ar^alfo found here, and plenty of Kood
water.
'Though the foil be barren, imd the fea tempeftuous, ,
an Eijglifh fettlement was made here, of which we were •
fjifpofltfrcd by the Spaniards in 1770. Jhat violence
was, however, difavowed by the Spanifh ambaffudor,
and fome conceflions were made to the court of Great
Britain ; but in order to avoid giving umbrage to the
court of Spain, the ficttlenient was afterwards aban*
doned. .1
' On Tueiday, the 7th, we refumed our courfe to the
eaft, and this day only three ice iflands were fecn. At
eight o'clock in the evening, we hauled the w ind to the
S. E. fcr the night. On the 8th, at day-light, wc
continued our courfe to the eaft, being in latitude 5 8
deg. 3omin.tion, or an illand of ice : for after
we had left the fouthern iflcs, to the prefcnt time, not
the lead veftigc of land had been difcovcred. We faw,
it is true, fome feaU, and penguins { but thefe arc to
be found in all parts of the louthcrn ocean, and iws be-
lieve (hags, ganncts, boobies, and men of war birds,
arc the mod indubitable ligns that denote the vicinity
of lands, as they feldom go very far out to Tea. Being
at this time only two degrees of longitude from our
route to the fouth, when we took our departure from
the Cape of Good Hope, it was in vain ror ut to con-
tinue ourcourfe tothceaft, under this parallel { but
thinking we might have feen land farther to the fouth,
for this reafon, and to clear up fome doubts, wc deerod
S. E. in order to get into the fituation in which it was
fuppofed to lie. On the 23d, from obfcrvations on fe-
veral didanccs of the fun and moon, we found ourfclves
in the latitude of 55 dcg. 25 min. S. and in 23 dcg.
22 min. E. longitude; and having run over the track
in which the land was fuppofed to lie, without foeuig
any, we now was well alTured the icc-iflands had de-
ceived Mr. Bouvet ; as at times they had deceived us.
During the night the wind veered to N. W. which ena-
bled us to deer more north ; for we had now laid afide
all thoughts of fearching farther after the French dif-
coveries, and were determined to diredt our courfe for
the Cape of Good Hope, intending only by the way to
look for the ides of Denia, and Marfevcen, which by
Dr. Hallcy are lai^ down in the latitude of 41 deg. 5
min. and 4 deg. E. longitude from the meridiaaof the
Cipc of Good Hope. On Friday the 25th, wedeered
N. E. and were at noon ih latitude 52 deg. 52 min.
^. longitude 26 deg. 31 min. E. This day we faw the
lad ice-ifland.
On Wcdncfday, the fird of .March, wc were in la-
titude 46 deg. 44 min. S. and in 23 deg. 36 min. W.
longitud* ; and we took notice, that the whole time the
wind blew regular and condant northerly, which in>
eluded fcveral days, the weather was always cloudy and
very hazy ; but as foon as it came fouth of wed, it
cleared up. We alfo obferved, that the barometer be-
gan to rife fcveral days before this change happened.
On the 3d, in the afternoon, we had intervals of clear
weather, but at night the wind blew a heavy fquall
from S. W. whereby fcveral of our fails were fplit, and
a middle day-fail was wholly lod. Our latitude was
45 deg. 8 min. S. longitude 30 dcg. 50 min. E. On
Wcdncfday, the 8th, the thermometer rofe to 61 dec.
and we were obliged to put on lighter cloaths. We
were now in latitude 41 deg. 30 mm. S. longitude 36
deg. 5 1 min. E. Wc had not yet feen any ligns of
land, but albatroifes, pctercls, and other fea birds,
were our daily vifitors. On the i ith, the wind diided
fuddenly from N. W. to S. W. which occafioned the
mercury to fall as fuddenly from 62 to j 2 deg. fo dide-
rcnt was the date of the air between a northerly and
foutherly wind. Our latitude this day was 40 dcg. 40
min. S. longitude 23 deg. 47 min. E.
On Sunday, the 1 2th, fome albatroflcs and peterels
were fliot, which proved an acceptable treat. This
day we were nearly in the fituation, in which the iflcs of
Denia and Marfevcen are faid to lie, and not the lead
hope of finding them remained. On the 13th, we
flood to N. N. W. and at noon, by obfervation, were
in latitude 38 dcg. 51 min. S. which was above thirty
miles more than our log gave us ; to what this dide-
rence was owing, wc could not determine. The watch
alfo fliewcd that wc had been fet to the cad. At this
time wc were two degrees north of the parallel in
which the iflcs are laid down, but found not any en-
couragement to perfeverc in our endeavours to find
them. This mull have confumed more time, we think,
in a fruitlcfs fearch ; and every one, all having been
confineda long time to dale and fait provifi:ns,was im-
patient to get into port. We therefore, in compliance
with the general widi, refolved to make the bed of our
way to the Cape of Good Hope. We were now in la-
titude 38 dcg. 38 min. S. and in 33 deg. 37 min. E.
longitude.
On Thurfday, the i6th, at day-break, we dcfcried
4
in the N. W. quarter, danding to the wedwatd, two
lail, one of which diewed Dutch colours. At ten
o'clock we dood to the wed alfo, and were now in the
latitude of 35 dcg. 9 min. S. and in longitude 23 deg.
38 min. E. About this time, a quarrel arofe betwem
thrceofficen, and the diip's cooks, which was not re-
conciled without ferious confequenccs. Thofe three
gentlemen, upon fome occafion or other, entered the
cook-room with naked knives, and with oaths, unbe-
coming their charader, fwore they would take away
the lives of the fird m ho dared to adront them. It
feems they had formerly met with fome rebu^ for too
much frequenting the cooks apartments, which had hi-
therto padcd in joke ; but now a regular complaint
was laid before the captain, of their unwarrantable be-
haviour, and of the danger the men were in of their
lives : into which complaint the captain was under a
necelTity of enquiring ; and upon finding it jud, «f
confining the oficnders in irons. While they were
in this fituation, the articles of war being read, it was
found that the od'cncc was of fuch a nature as hardly
to be determined without a reference to a court martial,
in order to which the two who appeared nfwd cut]xible,
were continued prifoners upon parole, and the third
was cleared. After this bufincfs had cngroded the Cap-
tain's attention, he called the diip's crew together, and
after recounting the particulars of the voyage, the
harddiips they had met with, the fatigues they had un-
dergone, and the chearfulnefs they hadcondantly diewn
in tnc difcharge of their duty, he gave them to under-
dand, how much it would dill more recommend them
to the Lords of the Admiralty, if they would prefervc
a profound filence in the ports they had yet to pafsand
might enter, with regard to the courfes, the difcove*
rics they had made, and every particular relative to
this voyage ; and likewife, after their return home, till
they had their lorddiips pcrmidion to the contrary ; re-
quiring, at the fame time, all thofe officers who had
kept journals to deliver them into his cudody, to be
fcaled up, and not to be opened till delivered to their
lorddiips at the proper office. In the interim they were
to be locked up fafely in a ched. This requed was
chcarftilly complied with by every commiflioned of-
ficer.
On Friday, the 1 7th, we obferved at noon in the la-
titude of 34 deg. 49 min. S. in the evening we faw
land, about fix leagues didant, in the diredhon of E.
N. E. And there was a great fire or light upon it,
throughout the fird part of the night. On the 1 8th,
at day-break, wc faw, at the fame didance, the land
again, bearing N. N. W. At nine o'clock, wefent out
a boot to get up with one of the two diips before no-
ticed ; wc were fo defirous of hearing news, that wc
paid no attention to the didance, though the ihips were
at lead two leagues from us. Soon after wc dood. to
the fouth, a breeze fpringing up at wed. At this
time three more fail were feen to windward, one
of which (hewed Englidi colours. The boat returned
at one o'clock P. M. and our people in it had been on
board a Dutch Indiaman, coming home from Bengal ;
the fliip was the Bownkerk Polder, the Captain Cor-
nelius Bofch. The captain very politely made us a
tender of fugar, arrack, and of any thing that could
be fpared out of the diip. By fome Englidi mariners
on board her, our people were informed, that our con-
fort had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve
months ago ; adding, that a boat's crew had been mur-
dered and eaten by the natives of New Zealand. Thh»
intelligence fuflkientJy explained the myderious ac-
counts wc had received from our old friends, in Queen
Charlotte's Sound.
On the 19th, at ten o'clock in the morning, the
Englidi fliip bore down to us. She was the True Bri-
ton, Capt. Broadly, on her return from China. A
letter to the fecrctary of the Admiralty was committed
to the care of the captain, who gencroufly feiit us freft
provifions, tea, and other articles. In the afternoon,
the True Briton dood out to fea, and we in for hind.
At fix o'clock, wc tacked within five miles of the fliore,
dilhni^as wc conjo^red. about fix leagues from Cape
• Aquilas.
COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE— for making Dtfcweries In the $outb Seas & Round the World. 1 93
AffuiUs. On the 20th, we ftood along (horctothc
werti and on the aift, at rt*n, the TaSlc Mounuin,
OYcr the Cape Town, bore N. E. by E. diftUnt ten
leagues. The next morning we anchored in Table
Bay J with us, in our reckoning, it was Wednefday
the 22nd, but with :he people here, Tuefday the 31 ft,
we having gaincJ a day by running to the eaft. In the
bay we found fnips of diflFerent nations, among which
was an Englifti Eaft Indiamanj from China, bound
diretfVly to England. In this fliip Capt. Cook fent a
copy of his journal, together with feme charts and
drawings to the Admiralty. We faluted the garrifon
with thirteen guns, and the compliment was returned
with an equal number. We now heard the deplorable
ftory of the Adventure's boat's crew confirmed, with
the addition of a falfc report, concerning the lofs of a
a French ftiip upon the fame ifland, with the total de-
ftrui::lion of the captain and his crew, propagated, no
doubt, by the Adventure's people, to render an *ft of
favage barbarity, that would fcarcely admit of aggra-
vation, rtill mdre horrible. But, which gave us full
ratlsfadion about this matter, Capt. Furneaux had left
a letter for our commander, in which he mentions the
lofs of the boat, and ten of his men, in queen Char-
lotte's Sound. The day after our arrival at this place,
Capt. Cook, accompanied by our gentlemen, waited
on Baron Plcttenberg, the Dutch Governor, by whom,
and his principal officers, they were treated with the
greateft politencfs ; and as at this place rcfrefhments of
all kinds may be procured in great abundance, we
now, after the numerous fatigues of a long voyage, be-
gan to tafte, and enjoy the Tweets of repofe. It is a
cuftom here for all the officers to refide on fliore ; in
compliance with which, the captain, the two Forfters,
and Mr. Sparman took up their abode with Mr. Brandt,
well known to our countrymen for his obliging readi-
ncfs to ferve them. Our people on board were not ne-
cleded ; and being provided daily with frefh baked
bread, freflimeat, greens, wine, &c. they werefoon
reftored tr) their ufual ftrength, and as foon forgot all
paft hardftiips and dangers.
All hands' were employed now to fupply all our de-
feds. Almoft »very thing except the ftanding rigging
was to be replaced anew ; and it is well known the
charges here for naval ftores are moft exorbitant ; for
the Dutch both at the Cape and Batavia, take a fcan-
dalous advantage of the diftrefs of foreigners. That
our cafks, rigging, fails, &c. (hould be in a fhsttered
condition, is eaflly accounted for. In circumnaviga-
ting the globe, we mean, from leaving this place to
our return to it again, we had failed no lefs than fixty
thoufand miles, equal nearly to three times the equa-
torial circumference of the earth t but in all this run,
which had been made in all latitudes, between 9 and
71 deg we fprung neither low-mafts nor top-maft j nor
broke fo much as a lower, or top-maft fnrowd. At
the Cape, the curiolity of all nations was excited, to
learn the fuccefs of our difcoveries, and in proportion
to the carneftnefs of the folicitations, wherewith the
common men were prefTed, by foreign inquifitors, they
took care to gratify them with wonderful relations.
Hence many flrangc ftones were circulated abroad, be-
fore it was known oy the people at large at home, whe-
ther the Refolution had pcrifhed at fea, or was upon her
return to Europe. Dunng our ftay here feveral foreign
Ibips put in and went out, bound to and from India,
namely, Englifh, French, Danes, and three Spanifh
fhips, frigates, two going to, and one returning from
Manilla. We believe it is but lately, that fhips of this
nation have touched here ; and thefe were the firft to
whom were allowed the fame privileges as other Euro-
pean ftates. We now loft no time in putting all
things in readinefs to complete our voyage ; but we
were obliged to unhang our rudder, and were alfo de-
layed for want of caulkers ; and it was ablblutely ne-
ceflary to caulk the (hip before we put to fea.
On Wednefday, the 26th of April, this work was
finifhed, and having got on botnl a frefh fupply of
provifions, and all neceUaryfhwcf, wc took leave of the
No. 23.
governor, and his principal officers. On the 37th, wc
went on board, and foon after, the itrind cohiing fair*
we weighed, and put to fea. When Under fail we fa-
luttd the ^rrifon as is cuftohiary, wnA they ieturned
the compliment. When clear of the bay We parted
company^ with fome of the fhips who failed out with
us : the Dartifh fhip fteeted for the Eift Indies, the Spa-
nilh frigate, Juno, for Europe, and we and the Dutton
Indiam;kn, forSt.Helena, Depending on the goodhefs of
Mr. Kendall's watch, we determined to attempt to
make the ifland by a direA courfe. The wind, in ge-
neral, blew faint all the pafllage, which made it longer
than commont
On' Monday the 1 5th of May, iX day-break, we faw
the ifland, diftant fourteen leagues, and anchored, at
midnight, before the town, on the N. W. fide of the
ifland. Governor Skett6we, and the gentlemen of the
ifland, treated us, while we continued here, with the
greateft courtefy^ In our narrative of Capt. Cook's
former voyage, we have given a full defcription of this
ifland i to which we fliall only add, that the inhabi-
tants are far from exercifing a wanton cruelty towards
their flaves. We are informed alfo, that wheel carri-
ages and porters knots have been in ufe among them
for many years. Within thefe three years a new church
has been built 5 fome other new buildings are eredlihg,
a commodious landing-place for boats has been nude,
and other improvements, which add both (irength
and beauty to the place. Here we finiflied fome necef-
fary repairs, which we had not time to complete du-
rii^ our ftay at the Cape. Our empty water caflcs were
alfo filled, and the ihip's company had frelh beef, at
five-pence per pound. This article of refrelhments is
exceeding good, and the only one to be procured
worth mentioning. On the ai ft in the evening we
took leave of the governor, and then repaired on
board. The Dutton Indiaman, in company with u4,
was ordered not to fall in with Afcenfion, for which
we fteered, on account of an illicit trade, carried Oit
between the Company's fhips, and fome veflcls from
North America, who of late years, had vihted the
ifland on pretence of fifliing, when their real defign was
to wait the coming of the India fhips. The E)utton was
therefore ordered to fteer N. W. by W. or N. W. till
to the northward of Afcenfion. With this fhip wc
were in company till the 24th, when we parted. A
packet for the Admiralty was put on board, and fhc
continued her courfe N. W. On Sunday, the 2 8th, we
made the ifland of Afcenfion ; and on the evening an-
chored in Crofs Bay, in the N. W. fide, half a mile
from the fhore, in ten fathoms water. The Crofi-hill,
fo called on account of a flag ftalf erected upon it in
form of a crofs, bore S. 38 deg. E. and the two extreme
poinu of the bay extended from N. E. to S. W. Wc
had feveral fifliing parties out every night, and got
about twenty-four turtle weighing between four and
five hundred weight each. This was our principal ob-
jeft, though we might have had a plentifiil fupply of
fiftj in general. We have no where fcen old wives in
fuch abundance s alfo cavalies, congor cell, and various
other forts.
This ifland lies in the diredtion N. W. and S. E. and
is ten miles broad, and five or fix long. Its furface is
very barren, and fcarceljr produces a fhrub, plant, or
any kind of vegetation, in the fpace of many miles ;
inftead of which we faw only ftones and find, or rather
flags and afties : hence from the general appearance of
the fece of this ifland, it is more than probable, that,
at fome time, of which we have no account, it has
been deftroyed by a volcano. We met with in our ex-
curfions a fmooth even furface in the intervals between
the heaps of ftones ; but as one of our people obferved,
you may as eafily walk over broken glafs bottles as over
the ftones f for if you flip, or make a fidfe ftep, you
are fure to be cut or lamed. At the S. E. end of the
ifle is a high mountain, which feems to have been left
in its original ftatc; for it is covered with a kind of
white mari, producing purflain, fpui]g, and one or two
fons of grals. On dfefe the goaa feed, which are to
3C be
I
! J'
I
194
Capt. COOK'S VOYAGES COMPLETE.
I '
I
^i '^i.
1 i
■t
^u
be found in this part of the iflc. Here are Rood land
craba, and the Tea abounds with turtle from January to
June. They always come on fhorc to lay their eggs in
the night, when they arc caught by turning them on
their backs, in which podtion tncy are left on the beach
till the next morning, when the turtle-catchers fetch
tlicm a\yay. We are inclined to think, that the turtles
come to this ifland merely for the purpofe of laying
their eggs, as we found none but females; nor had
thofe we caught any food in their ftomachs. We faw
alfo near this place abundance of .iquatic birds, fuch as
tropic birds, men of war, boobies, &e. On the N. E.
fide we found the remains of a wreck ; (he feemcd to
have been a velTol of one hundred and fifty tons bur-
then. We were informed, that there is a fine fpring in
a valley between two hills, on the top of the moun-
tain above mentioned ; bcfidcs great quantities of frelh
water in holes in the rocks. While the Refolution lay
in the road, a Hoop belonging to New- York anchored
l^y her. She had been to the coaft of Guinea with a
cargo of goods, and came here under a pretence to take
in turtle ; but her real intention was, we believe, to
traffic with the olliccrs of our homeward bound Eaft-
Indiamcn ; for flic had lain here near a week, and had
got on board twenty turtle ; whereas a (loop from Ber-
muda, had failed but a few days before, with one hun-
dred and five oi\ board, which were as many as flic
could take in; but having turned feveral more on dif-
ferent beaches, they inhumanly ripped open their bel-
lies, for the fake of the eggs, and left the carcafes to
putrify. The centre of this ill.nnd of Afccnlion is (itu-
ated in the latitude of 8 deg. S. and 14 deg. 28 min.
20 fee. W. longitude.
On WtdncfJ.iy, the 31 ft of May, wc departed from
the ifland of Afceniion, and ftecred, with a line gale
at S. E. by E. for that of Fernando dc Noronha, on the
coaft of Brafil, in order to determine its longitude. In
our palfage for tliis place, we had very good weather,
and fine moon light nights, which alJoidcd us many
opportunities of making lunar obfervatioui. On the
9tn of June we made the ifland, which had the ap-
pcarance of feveral detached hills ; the largeft of which
very much rcfcmblcd the ftccplc of a church. As we
advanced, and drew near it, we found the fea broke in
a violent furf on fome funken rocks, which lay about a
league from the fliorc. We now hoiftcd Englifh co-
lours, and bore up round the north end of the ifle,
which is a group of little iflots ; for we perceived plainly,
that the land was unconneded, and divided by narrow
channels. On one of thefe, next the main, are fe-
veral ftrong forts, rendered fo by the nature of their
fituation, which is fuch as to command all the anchor-
ing and landing places aboutthe ifland. Wecontinucd
to fail round the northern point, till the fandy beaches,
before which is the road for fliipping, and the forts were
open to the weftward of the faid point. As the Refo-
lution advanced, a gun was fired, and immediately the
Portugucfe colours w ere difplayed on all the forts : but
not intending to flop here, we fired a gun to the lee-
ward, and flood away to the northward, with a frefh
breeze at E. S. E. The hill, which appears like a
church tower, bore S. 27 deg. W. five miles diftant;
and from our prefent point of view it appeared to lean,
or over-hang to the eaft. Fernando de Noronha is in
no part more than iix leagues in extent, and exhibits
an unequal furface, well cloathed with wood and her-
bage. Its latitude is 3 deg. 53 min. S. and its longi-
tude carried oa by the watch, from St. Helena, is 32
deg. 34 min. W. Don Antonio d'Ulloa, in his ac-
count of this ifland, fays, " that it hath two harbours,
capable of receiving fliips of the grtatell burden ; one
is on the north fide, and the other on the N. W. The
former is, in every refped, the principal, both for
ihelterand capacioufncfs.and thegoodncfsof its bottom;
but both are cxpofed to the north and weft, though
thefe winds, particularly the north, are periodical, and
of no lon^ continuance. You anchor in the north har-
tfoxit (which Capt. Cook called a road) in thirteen fa-
thoms water, one third of a league from the fliore, bot-
3
torn of fine fand j the peaked hilt bearing S. W, ^ deg.
foutherly." Thisrtad, o^(iu Ulloa terms it) harbour)
is very fecure for fliipping, being fteltered from the
fouth and eaftg winds. A mariner • in our fliip, had
been aboard a Dutch Eaft Indiaman, who, on account
of her crew being fickly, and in want of refrefliments,
put into this ifle. By him wc were informed, that the
PortUguefe fupplicd them with fomc buffaloes j and
that they got their water behind one of the beaches,
from a fmall pool fcarcely big enough to dip a
bucket in.
On Sunday, the i ith of June, at three o'clock P. M.
in longitude 32 deg. 14 min. wc croflid the line. Wc
had fqually weather from the E. S. E. with'fliowers of
rain, w hich cotitinued, at times, till the 1 2th, and on
the 23th the wind became variable. At noon were in
the latitude of 3 deg. 49 min. N. and in 31 deg. 47
min. W. longitude. We had now for moft part of the
day, dark, gloomy weather, till the evening of the 1 5th,
at which time wc were in latitude 5 deg. 47 min. N.
and in 31 deg. W. longitude. After this we had
three fucceflivc calm days, in which wc had fair wea-
ther and rains, alternately ; and fometimes the flcy was
obfcured by dcnfc clouds, which broke in very heavy
fliowcrs of rain. On Sunday, the 18th, we had a
breeze at eaft, which fixed at N. E. and we ftretched
to N. W. As we advanced to the north, the gale in-
crcafed. On Wcdnefday, the 21ft, Capt. Cook or-
dered the rtill to be fet to work; with a view of making
thegreateft quantity poflible of frefli water. To try
this experiment, the ftill was fitted to the largeft cop-
per «e had, which held about fixty-four gallons of fait
water. At four o'clock, A. M. the fire was lighted,
and at fix the ftill began to run. The operation was
coni^iniied till fix in the evening: at which time we had
obtained thirty-two gallons of frefli water, and con-
fiimed one bulhel and a half of coals. At noon, the
mercury in the thermometer was eighty-four and a
hilf, as high as it is generally found to rife at fea.
Had it been lower, more water would have been pro-
cured; for it is well known, that thecokler the air is,
the cooler the ftill may be kept, whereby -.hefteam will
be condenfed fafter. This invention u()on the w hole
is a ufcful one, but it would not be prudent for a navi-
gator to trurt wholly to it ; for though with plenty of
fuel, and good coppers, as much water may be ob-
tained, as w ill be neccflary to fupport life, yet the ut-
moft efforts that can be employed in thjls work, will
not procure a fufiiciency to fupport health, efpccially in
hot climates, where frefli water is moft wanted j and
in the opinion of Capt. Cook, founded on experience,
the beft judge of this matter, nothing can contribute
more to the health of feamen, than their having plenty
of fweet frefli water.
On Sunday, the 25th, we were in latitude 16 deg.
1 2 min. N. and in 37 deg. 20 min. W. longitude. Ob-
ferving a fliip to windward, bearing down upon us, wc
fhortencd fail ; but on her approaching, we found by
her colours flic was Dutch ; we therefore made fail
again, and left her to purfuc her courfe. On the 28th,
wc obferved in the latitude of 21 deg. 21 min. N, lon-
gitude 40 deg. 6 min. W. and our courfe made good
was N. by W. On the 30th, a fhip palfed us within
hale I but fhe was prefently out of fight, and we judged
her to be Englifli. We were now in the latitude of 24
deg. 20 min. N. longitude 40 deg. 47 min. W. In la-
titude 29 deg. 30 min. we faw fome fea-plants, com-
monly called gulph weed, becaufe it is fuppnfcd to
come from the gulph of Florida ; it may be fo, and
yet it certainly vegetates at fea. We continued to fee
this plant in fmall pieces, till in the latitude of 36-deg.
N. beyond which parallel we faw no more of it. On
Wcdnefday, the 5th of July, the wind veered to the
eaft ; and the next day it was a calm. On the 7th and
8th wc had variable light airs; but on the 9th, the wind
fixed at S. S. W. after which we had a frefh gale, and
fteered firft N. E. and then E. N. E. our intention be-
ing to make fome of the Azores, or Weftem Ifles.
OnTuefday, the iith, wtf were in latitude 36 deg.
45 min.
COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE— for making Difcoveries in the SoUthSeai ic hound the H^orU. 195
45 min. N. and in 36 deg. 45 min. W. longitude, when
we defcricd a fail accringto the weft; and on the nth,
we came in fight of three more.
. On Thuriifiy, the 13th, we made the ifte of Fayal,
and on the 14th, at dajr-break, we entered the bay of
De Horta, and at eight o'clock anchored in twenty fa-
thoin* water, about half a mile from the (hore. Our
defign in touching at this place, was to make obfcrva-
tions, from whence might be determined with accu-
racy the longitude of the Azores. We were dirci^ted
by the mafter of the port, who came on board before
we cart anchor, to moor N. E. and S. W. in this ftation,
the S. W. point of the bay bore S. 1 6 deg. W. and the N.
E. point, N. 33 deg, E. The church at the N. E. end
of the town N. 38 deg. W. the weft point of St.
George's ifland N, 4a deg. E. diftant eight leagues j
and the iflc of Pico extending from N. 74 deg. E. to
■S. 46 deg. E. diftant five miles. In the H'.y wc found
the Pourvoyer, a large French frigate, an Ameritan
floop, and a brig belonging to Fayal. On thfc 14th,
the Captain fent to the Englifli conful, and notified our
arrival to the governor, begging his pcrmifTion to grant
Mr. Wales an opportunity tO make his obfcrvation.s
on (hore. "This was readily granted, and Mr. Dent,
who aifted as conful in the ablcncc of Mr. Gathorne,
not only procured this permifiion, but accommodated
Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden to fct
up his inftrunicnts ,' and in fevcral other particulars, this
gentleman difcovcred a friendly readinefs to oblige us :
even his houfe was always at our command both night
and day ; and the entertainment we met with there was
liberal and hofpitable. All the time we flaid at this
place, the crew of our Ihip were fupplicd with plenty
bf frcfti beef, and we purchafed about fifty tons of
water, at the rate of about three ftiillings per ton. To
hire (hore boats is the moft general cuftom here, though
Ihipsare allowed, if they prefer many inconvenicncics
to a trifling expencc, to water with their own boats.
Fre(h provifions may be got, and hogs, flicep, and
poultry, for fea-ftock, at reafonable rates. The (hccp
are not only fmall, they are alfo very poor ; but thi
bullocks and hogs are exceeding good. Here is plenty
of wine to be had.
■ Before we proceed with our own obfervations, made
during our abode at Fayal, it may be agreeable to our
readers, to give them a brief account and dcfcription of
all the Azores, or Weftern lllands. Thcfc have by
different get^raphers, been varioufiy dccined parts of
America, Africa, and Europe, as they are alniolt in a
central point ; but we apprehend they may with more
Sropriety be confidered as belonging to the latter,
hey are a group oi' iflands, (ituated in the Atlantic
ocean, between twenty-five and thirty-two degrees of
welt longitude, and between thirty-feven and forty
north latitude, nine hundred miles weft of Portugal,
and as many eaft of Newfoundland. They are nine in
number, viz. St. Maria, St. Miguel or St. Michael,
Terceira, St. George, Graciofa, Fayal, Pico, Flores,
and Corvo,
Thefe iflands were firft difcovered by fomc Flemilh
fhips in 1439, and afterwards by the Portuguefe in
1447, to whom they now belong. The two wefl:ern-
moft were named Flores and Corvo, from the abun-
dance of flowers on the one, and crows on the other.
They arc all fertile, and fubjedt to a governor-general,
who refides at Angra in Terceira, which is alfo the feat
of the bi(hop, whofe diocefe extends over all the
Azores, The income of the latter, which is paid in
wheat, amounts to about two hundred pounds uerling
a year. On every ifland there is a deputy-governor,
}vho dire^ the police, militia, and revenue ; and a
juiz, or judge, is at the head of the law department,
from whom lies an appeal to a higher court iit Terceira,
and from thence to the fupreme court at Liftxin. The
natives of thefe iflands are faid to be very litigious.
St. Miguel, the largeft, is one hundred miles in
circumference, contains about twenty-nine thoufand
inhabitants, and is veryTertilc in wheat and flax. Its
chief town is Panta del Gado. This ifland was twice
ravaged by the EngU(!i in th? Um? of queen Eliiabeth,
Terceira it reckoned the chief ifland, on account of
its having the bed harbour ; and its chief town, named
Angra, being the rcfidence of the governor-general
and the bifliop. The town contains a cathedral,: five
other churches, eight convents, feveral courts of Of-
fices, fkc. and is defended by two fortii.
The ifland of Pico, fo called from ta mountain of
va(t height, produces excellent wine, cedar, and
a valuable wood callci'. teixos. On the (buth of
the ifland is the principal harbour, called Villa das
Lngcns.
The inhabitants of Flores having been many years
ago infcdted with the venereal difeale by the crew of a
Spanifli man of war, that was wrecked upon their coa(t,
the evil, it is faid, (till maintains its ground there, none
of the inhabitants being free from it, as in Peru, and
feme parts of Siberia,
Travellers relate, that no poifonous or venomous ani-
mal is to be found in the Azores, and that if carried
thither, it will expire in a few hours. One tenth of
alt their produdlions belong to the king, and the arti-
cle of tobacco brings in a confiderable lum. The wine,
called Fayal wine, is chiefly raifed in the ifland of Prco,
which lies oppofite to Fayal, From eighteen to twenty
thoufand pipes of that wine are made there yearly. AH
of thcfc iflands enjoy a falubrioiis air, but are expqfcd
to violent earthquakes, from which they have frequently
fuffcred.
Villa de Horta, the chief town in Fayal, like all the
towns belonging to the Portuguefe, is crowded with
religious buildings ; there being no Icfs in this little
city, than three convents for men^ and two for women.
Here are alfo eight churches, including thofe belonging
to the convents, and that in the Jcfuits college. This
college is a noble ftrudure, and featcd on an elevation
ill the plcafantcft part of the city. Since the expul-
(ion of that order, it has been fuHercd to go to decay,
and, in a few years, by the all confuming hand of time,
may be reduced to a heap of ruins. The principal,
produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which
the inhabitants fupply Pico, which in return fends
them wine more than fuflicicnt for their confumpribn,
■great quantities being annually fhipped from De Horta
(for at I'ico there is no road for (hipping) for America,
whence it has obtained the name of Fayal wine. The
Villa de Horta is fituated in the bottom of a bay, clofc
to the edge of the fca. It is defended by two caftles,
one at each end of the town, and a (tone work extend-
ing along the fca fliorc from the one to the other. But
thefe works ferve more for (hew than defence j but it is
a pity they (hould be fufFcred to run to decay; feeing
they heighten greatly the profpcdl of the city, which
is very beautiuil from the road ; but fetting afldc the
religious houfes and churches, we faw not another edi-
fice, that has any thing either within or without to re-
commend it. J t is not the cultom in thefe parts among
the Portuguefe, or Spaniards, to have glafs windows,
but in this town the churches, and a country houfe
lately belonging to the Englifh conful, have their win-
dows glazed : all others are latticed, which gave them
in our eyes the appearance of prifons. Before this
Villa, at the ealt end of the ifland, is the bay or road
of Fayal, which faces the welt end of Pico. It is a
fcmi-circle, about two miles in diameter ; and its depth,
or femi-diametcr, is three-fourths of a mile. The bot-
tom is fandy, and the depth of water from fix to twenty
fathoms ; but near the (nore, particularly at the S. W.
head, the bottom is rocky ; as it al(b is without the
line that.conneds the two points of the bay ; on which
account it is not fafe to anchor too fai out. The bear-
ings which wc have laid down when moored in this
road, are fulficient to dircd; any (teerfman to the beft
ground. The winds to which this road lies molt ex-
pofed are thofe that blow from between the S, S. W.
and S. E, but as you can always get to fea with the lat-
ter, this is not fo dangerous as the former j and we were
told, there is a fmall cove round the S. W, point, called
Porto Piere, where fmall vclTels are heaved down, and
wherein a (hip may lay tolerably fafb. Upon the whole,
wc by no means think this road of Fayal a bad one. Wc
were
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Capt. COOK't VOYAGES COMPLETE.
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Were informed, by • Portugucfc capuin of the follow-
ing piRiculan, which, if true, arc not unworthy of
notice. However, hii account may be attended to by
captaini of (hipi, though not entirely relied on. This
Portusucfe told ui, that in the direction of S. E. about
half aleague from the road, and in a line between that
and the fouth (idea of Pico, lies a concealed funken
rock, covered with twenty-two liithom water, and on
which the Tea brealu from the fouth. He alfo gave us
to underftand, that of all the diggin*;, foon found a bottle
corked and waxed, down, wherein was a letter from
Capt. Cook, informing us of their arrival at this place
on the 3d in(lant,and thoii departure on the 24th, and
that they intended fpeoding a few days in the entrancq
of the Straits to look for us. We immediately fet
about the necefftiY repairs of the (hip, with an intention
of getting her to lea a* (bon as pofTible. On the i ft of
December, the tents were carried on (bore, thearmou.
rer's forge put up, ani every preparation made for th«
recovery of^ the fick. The cooper* were difpatchcd on
(hore to mend the cafks, and we began to unftow the
hold to get at the bread ; but upon opening dw cafks,
we found a great quantity of it entirely fpoilcd, and
moll part fo oamagcd, that we were obliged to bake it
over again, which unavoidably delaved us fome time.
At intervals, during our (lay here, the natives came on
board as ufual with great familiaritv. They gcnenlly
brought fUb, or whatever they had to barter with us,
and feemed to behave with great civi'ity; though
twice in one night they came to the tents with an inten.
tion of ftealing, but were difcovered before they had
acctMnplifhed their defign. A party alfo came down
in the night of the i3tn, and robbed the aflrttnomcr's
tent of every thing they could carry awav. This they
did fo quietly, that they were not fo much as heard, or
fufpedled, till the aflronomer getting up to make an
obtervation, miffed his inflruments, and charged the
centinei with the robbery. This brought on a pretty
fevere altercation, during which they fpicd an Indian
creeping from the tent, at whom Mr. Bailey fired, and
wounded him ; neverthelefs he made a Ihift to retreat
into the woods. The report of the gun had alarmed
his confederates, who, inilead of putting off from the
ihore, fled into the woods, leaving their canoe, with
moft of the things that had been Rolen, a-ground on
the beach. This petty faureny, it is pn^bable, laid the
foundation of that dreadful cataflrophe which fooi^
after happened.
On Friday, the 1 7th, at which time we were preparing
for our departure, we fent out our large cutter, manned
with 7 feamen,uiider the command of Mr. John Rowe,
the fiiil mate, accompanied by Mr. Woodhoufe, mid-
(hipman, and James Tobias Swillor, the carpenter's
fervant. They were to proceed up tne Sound to Grafs
Cove, to gather greens and celery for the (hip's com-
pany, with orders to return that evening t for the tents
had been ftrtick at two in the afternoon, and the (hip
nnade ready for failing the next day. Ni^t coming on,
and no cutter appearing, the capuin ami others began
to exprcfs great unca(inefs. They fat up all night, in
expedation of their arrival, but to no purpole. At
day -break, therefore, the Captain ordered the launch
to be hoiftcd out. She was double manned, and under
the command of our fecond lieutenant, Mr. Bumey,
accompanied by Mr. Freeman, mailer, the corporal of
marines with five private men, all well armed, and hav.
ing plenty of ammunition^ two wall pieces, and three
days provifions. They were ordered flrfl to look into
eafl bay, then to proceed to Grafs Cove, and if nothing
was to be feen or heard of the cutter there, they were
to go further up the cove, and return by the weft (liore.
Mr. Row having left the (hip an hour before the time
propofed for his departure, we thought his curiofity
might have carried him into eaft bay, none of our peo-
ple having ever been there, or that fome accident might
nave happened to the boat ; for not the lead Ibfpicion
was enteruined of the lutives, our boats having been
higher up, and worfc prodded. Mr. Bunicy returned
about eleven o'clock the fame night, and gave us a
pointed defcription of a moft horrible fcene indeed ;
the fubftance, and every material particular of whofe
, report, are conuined in the folfowing rclatioiv which
includes the remarks ofthofe who attended Mr. Burnev.
3 D On
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On Sanirdav the i8th, purfuanc to our orderi, we
left the (hip, aoout nine o'clock in the morning. H«v-
in^f a light breeze in our favour, wc foon got round
Lxiii(T llUnd, and L na Point. We continued faitinff
and row ing for Eall Bay, keeping clofe in fhorc, and
examining with our glafTct every cove on the lar-
board (\m, till near two o'cliKk in the afternoon, at
which time we ftop(Kd at a bearh on our left going
up liart Bay, to dref* our dinner. While we were
cooking we Taw an Indian on the oApofite Ihoro, run-
ning along a beach to the head of the bay i and when
our meat was jttiV done, we uerceived a con^pany of
the native* fccmingly verv bufy i ujjon feeing which, we
got immediately into the boat, put off, and rowed
quickly to the place where the favages were aflcmblcd,
which was at tne head of thi.t reacn i and here, while
approaching, we difcemed one of their fettlement*.
An we drew near fome of the Indians came down upon
the rocks, and w aved for us to depart ; but perceiving
wc difregarded them, they altered their gefturcs, and
wild notes. At this place weobferved fix large canoes
hauled upon the beach, moft of them being double
ones ; but the numlicr of people were in proportion
neither to the fize of thefc canoes, nor the number of
hnufcs. Our little company, confifting of the con
porni and his five marines, headed by Mr. Burney,
now landed, leaving the boat's crew to guard it. U|)on
our approach the natives Hcd with great precipitation.
Wc followed them clofcly to a little town, which we
found deferted ; but while we were employed in fcarch-
ing their hues, the natives returned, making a (hew of
rcliftancc ; but fomc trifling prefents being made to
their chiefs, they were very loon appcafed. However
on our return to the boat, the favages again followed
Vs, and fomc of them threw Rones. As wc came dow n
to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle
of Hepatoos, or long fpears, but feeing Mr. Mumey
looked very earneftly at him, he walked about with
Teeming unconcern. Some of his companions appear-
ing to DC terrified, a few trifles were giviin to each of
them. I'rom the place w here we now landed, the bay
feemed to run a full mile, N. N. W. where it ended in
a long Tandy beach. After dinner wc tonk a view of
«hc country near the coaft with our glafTes, but faw not
a canoe, or (igns of inhabitants, alter which we fired
the wall pieces as fignals to the cutter, if any of the
people thould happen to be within hearing. We now
renewed our fcarcn along the eafl (bore; and came to
another fcttlemcnt where the Indians invited us afhore.
IVe enquired of themaliout the cutter, but they pre-
tended ignorance. They feemed very friendly, and fold
«is foine fifh.
.\z about five o'clock in the afternoon, and within
an hour after we had left this place, wc opened a fmall
bay adjoining tii" Grafs Cove, and her6 wc law a large
«ioublc canoe, juft hauled upon the beach, with two
men and a dog. The two favages, on feeing us ap-
wroach, inftantly fled, which made us fufpedt, it was
here we ihould have fome tidings of the cutter. On
landing, and examining the canoe, the firft thing wc faw
therein were one of our cutter's rullock ports, and fome
ilioes. one of which among the latter, was known to be-
long to Mr. Woodhoufe. A piece of flelh was found
by one of our people, which at firft was thought tc be
ioitie of the fait meat belonging to the cutter's men,
but upon examination, we fuppofed it to be dog's fiefh ;
a inoli horrid and undeniable proof foon dearcS up our
doubts, and convinced us wc were among no other
than cannibals; for advancing further on the beach, we
faw about twenty balkets tied up, and a dog eating a
piece of broilea flefh, which upon examining we tuf-
peded to be human. We cut open the bafkets, fomc
of which were full of roafted flelh, and others of fern
root, which ferves them tor bread. Searching others
we found more Ihoes, and a hand, which was imme-
diately known to have belon^d to Thomas Hill, one
of our fore-caftic men, it havuig been tatowed with the
initials of his name. Wc now proceeded a little way
ill the woods, but faw nothing elfc. Our next deflgn
was to launch the canoe, intending to doftrojr her;
but feeing a great fmoke afcending over the ncarcfV
hill, we made all pollible hade to be with them before
fun-fet.
At half after (Ix we opennl (Jrafs Cove, where we
faw one Unglc, and three double canoes, and a great
many natives affemblcti on the beach, who retreated
to a fmall hill, within a (hip's length of the water-
fide, where thev ftootl talking to us. On the top of
the high land, beyond the woods, was a large lire,
from whence all the way down the hill, the place was
rhronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a
iTiufquctoon was fired at one of the canoes, as wc ima -
ginal they might be full of men lying down ( fur thty
were all afloat, but no one was fcen in them. Being
doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear, or
a defirc to decoy us into an ambufca.'e, we were deter-
mined not to be furprifed, and therefore running dole
in (1iore,we dropped the grappling near enough to reach
them with ot;r gunsi but at too great a diftance to be
under any apprehcniions from tncir treachery. I'hc
favages on the little hill kept their ground, hallooing,
and making ligns for us to land. At thefc we now
took aim, refolving to kill as many of them as our
bullets would reach ; yet it was fome time before wc
could dillfldge them. The firft volley did not fccn> to
affect them 'much; but on the fecond, they began to
fcrambic away as fall they could, fome howling and
others limping. Wc continued to fire as long as we
ix)uld fee the leaft glimpfe of any of them through
the bufhes. Amon^ thefe were two very robuft men,
who maintained thcirground, without moving an inch,
till they found themfelves forfaken by all their compa-
nions, and then, difdaining to run, they marched ofi'
with great compufurc and (deliberation. One of them,
however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled
away on his hands and feet ; but thcothcr efcaped with-
out any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved
their panic, and, fupported by the marines, leapt on
(hore, and purfued the fugitives. Wc had not ad-
vanced far from the water-fide, on the beach, before
we met with two bundles of celery, which had been
gathered by the cutter's crew. A broken oar was ftuck
upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied
their canoes ; whereby we were convinced this was the
fpot where the attack had been made. We now fearched
all along at the back of the beach, to fee if the cutter
was there, but inftead of her, the moft horrible fccne
was prefented to our view, that was ever beheld by
any European; for here lay the hearts, heads, and
lungs of Icveral of our people, with hands and limbs,
in a mangled condition, fomc broiled and fome raw ;
but no other parts of their bodies, which made us fuf-
pe£t, that the cannibals had feafted upon, and de-
voured the reft. To complete this ihocking view of
carnage and barbarity, at a little diftance, wc faw the
dogs gnawing their intrails. Weobferved a large body of
the natives coUeSed together on a hill about two miles
off; but as night drew on a-pacc, we could not ad-
vance to fuch aaiftance; neither did wc think it fafe to
attack them, or even to quit the ihore, to take an ac-
count of the number killed, our troop being a very
fiwallonc, and the favages were both numerous, fierce,
and much irriuted. While we remained almoft ftupi-
iicd on the ^t, Mr. Fannen faid, that he heard the
cannibals affembling in the woods ; on which we re-
turned to our boat, and having hauled alongfide the
canoes, wc demoliftied three of them. During this
tranfadion, the fire on the top of the hill difappeared,
and we could hear the favages in the woods at high
words ; quarrelling perhaps, on account of their diire-
rent opinions, whetner they (hould attack us, and try
to fave their canoes. They were armed with long
lances, and weapons not unlike a ferjeant's halbert in
fhape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone in-
ftead of iron. We fufpeded, that the dead bodies of our
people had becoilivided among thofe different parties
of cannables, who had been concerned in the mairacre;
and it was not improbable, that the group we faw at a
diftance by the fire, were feafting upon fome of them,
as thofe on ftiore had been, where the remains were
found
"V'>
: remauis were
fiiund, bcft)rc they had heen difturbtd by our imcx-
jKi\cA vifit : be- that ai it nuy, we could difcovcr no
tracri of inorc than four of our friend* hodici, nor
could wc find the place where the cutter WMtonceiiled.
It now grew dark, on which account, we collciited
carefully thr rcinainn of our mangled friends, and put-
ting off, made the beft of our way from thi« j)olliitcd
Elacc, not without a few execrations iK-ftowcd on the
lood-thirfty inhabitant*. When wc opened the upper
part of the Sound, we faw a very lar^r.e I'u-c aliout three
or fw miles higher up, which formed a complete oval,
reaching from the top of a hill down almoO to the ws-
tcr-fidc I the middle fpace being inclofcd all rmiml by
the fire, like a hedge. Mr. iTurney and Mr. I'annen
having confulted togctlur, they were Iwth of opinion,
that we could, by an attempt, reap no other advantaEC
than the poor fatisfaelion ut killing fomc more of the
favagcs. Upon leaving (irafs Cove, wo had fired a
volley towardi where wc beard the Indiana talking t
but by going in and out of the boat, our pieces had got
wet, and tour of them mifled fire. What rendered our
fituation more critical was, it began to rain, and our
ammunition was more than half expended. Wc, for
thcfc reafons, without fpcnding time where nothing
could be hoped for but revenge, pro<:eeded for the (hip,
and arrived fafc aboard before midnight. Such it the
account of this tragical event j the poor vidlims were
far enough out of hearing, and in all probability every
man of them muft have been butchered on the fpot.
It may be proper here to mention, that the whole
number of men in the cutter were ten, namely, Mr:
Row, our firft mate, Mr, Woodhoufc, a midlhipman,
Francis Murphy, quarter-mailer, James Sevilley, the
Captain's fervant, John Lavcnaugh, and Thomas Mil-
ton, belonging ti» the after-guard i William Facey,
Thomas Hal, Michael Bell, and txlward Jones, fore-
caftle-mcn. Moft of thcfe were the ftoutell and moft
healthy people in the ihip, having been felcdcd from
our bell feamen. Mr. Burncy's party brought on board
the head of the Captain's fervant, with two hands, one
belonging to Mr. Kowc, known bv a hurt it had re-
ceived ( and the other to Thomas Hill, being marked
with T. H. as before mentioned. Thefe, with other
mangled remains, were inclofed in a hammock, and
with the ufual ceremony obferved on board Hiips, were
committed to the fca. Not any of their arms were
found t nor any of their cloaths, except fix Ihocs, no
two of which were fellows, a frock, and a pair of
trowfers. We do not think this melancholy cataftrophe
was the cfTedl of a premeditated plan, formed by the
ravages ; for two canoes came down, and continued
all the forenoon in Ship Cove, and thefe Mr. Kowc met,
and bartered with the natives for fome fifli. We are
rather inclined to Leiievc, that the bloody tranfadlion
originated in a quarrel with fome of the Indians, which
was decided on the fpot; or, our people rambling
about too fccure, and incautious, the fairnefs of the op-
portunity might tempt them to commit the bloody
deed ; and what might encourage them was, they had
found out, that our guns were not infallible ( they had
feen them mifs lire ; and they knew, that when dif-
chargcd, they mud be loaded before they could again
do any execution, which interval of time they could
take proper advantage of. From fome circumllanccs
wc concluded, that after their fuccefs, there was a ge-
neral meeting on the cad fide of the Sound. We know
the Indians of Shag Cove were there, by a long finglc
canoe, which Ibmc of our people with Mr. Kowc had
feen four days before in Shag Cove. After this (hock-
ing affair, we were dcuined four days in the Sound by
coi|trary winds, in which time wc (aw none of the in-
liabitints. It is a little remarkable, that Captain Fur-
neaux had been (evcral times up Grafs Cove with Capt.
Cook, where they faw no inhabitants, and no other
figns of any, but a few dcferted villages which ap-
peared as if they had not been occupied for many
years; and yet, it) Mr. Burncy's opinion, when he en-
tered the fame cove, there could not be Icfs than fifteen
hundred, or two thoufand people. Had they been ap-
p0zed of his comiiig, we doubt not they would have at-
tacked him ) and feeing not a probability remained of
any of our people being alive, frum thefe conlidcnf
tions, wc thought it would be impnidcnt to renew the
fearch, and fend a boat up again.
On Thurfdav, the ajd of December, we departed
from, and made fail out of the Sound, heartily vexed
at the unavoidable delays we had experienced, fo con-
trary toourfunguine willies. We (Ioo(ition was ever more clearly de*
monftratcd, that there is no continent undi(covcred
ih the Ibutiicrn hcmi(pherc, between the equator and
the joth dcg. of foutnem latitude, in which fpace all
who have contended for its eiti(teiKC hive included,
if not the w hole, at iea(t the mad confiderable part.
Butat the fame time that we declare ourfclves thus clear-
ly convinced of the non>i«xiftenceof a continent within
the limits jull mentioned, we cannot help acknow-
ledging our ready belief, that the land our navigators
have chfcovcred to the S. E. of Staten Land, is part of
a continent, proje
order with fcamen 1 whereas others who live in as high
a latitude, but in a difierent manner, are free from it.
Thus we are informed by Linneus, that the Laplanders
are unacquainted with the fcurvy ; for which no other
rcafon can be afiigned, than their never eating falted
meats, nor indeed faltwith any thing, but their ufijig all
the frefh flefti of their rein deer. And this exemption of
the hyperborean nations from the general diftemper
of the north, is the more remarkable, a» they fcldom
tafte vegetables, and bread never. Yet in the yery
Crovinces, bordering on Lapland, where they ulc
read, but fcarcely any veectables, and eat falted meats,
they are as much troubled with the fcurvy as in any
other country. But hi-re wc may properly obfervc,
that the late improvements in agriculture, gardening,
and hufbandry, oy extending their falubrious influence
to the remoteft paru of Europe, and to the loweft clafs
of people, begin fen(ibly to leffen the frequency of that
complaint, even in thole climates wherein it has been
moft brief uid fiital. Again, it has been aflerted, that
thoTe who live on ftiore. or landfmen, will be afleded
with the fcurvy, though they may have never been con-
fined to fait meats : but of this we have not met with .
any inftances, excqit anMms fuch who have breathed a
marfhy air, or what was otnerwUe putrid t or annong
thofe wtw wanted exercife, (ruits, and the common
vegetables : under which particular circumftances we
grant, that the humoHn will corrupt in the iiuue ouoi-
ncf.
^1 i\
COOK'» SECOND VOYAGE— for making Dijhvtfin in the SMb ^i'/r/ 6c Round xhltH^erlJ. %oi
■cr, ihotigh noc in the f«mc dci^rre, with thorc »)f
fcamen. In the war, when Sidnghurll Callle m Kfnf,
«ai tilled with French prifoncri, the fciirvy hrnkc out
anions them, notwithitanUinf' thry hiul luvcr been
fcrvcd with raited victuali in r'n^j^lanJ, Imu had daily
an allowance of frefh meat, and bread iit proportion,
though without vegetables. And hctidoi the warit of
fhi» neccflary fupply of greens, the ward* were crowd-
ed and foul, the houfc damp, bv reafon nCa circum-
ambient moat, and the bounds allotted for caking the
air were fo fmall, and in wet weather fo fwampidi,
that the men fcldom were difpofrtl to (|iiit the houli,-.
A reprelentation having Inrcn made of thcllilrncicnciei,
in confeqiience thereof the prifoncra were funplied
with roots and greens for boiling in thir hrotn, the
tick were quartered out in n dry lituation, where they
had the liberty of air and excrnfe i and by thefc means
they all qiiicklv' recovered. VVc think it probable
that the fcurvy rooner appeared among thefe (Grangers,
from their having been taken nt fra, and therefore, from
their dirt, they were more difp.iftid to the dircnfc.
Such is the niture and caulV of that (Icknefs moft de-
Rruiflivc to faiiors.
Let us now take a tranfinit view of irs dreadful ra-
rages t and by » contrail between the old and prefcnt
times, we (hall fee, more evidently, the importance
and value of the means propoftd, and which have
been moH fuccefsfully employed by Capt. Cook, for
its prevention and cure. In the firft voyage for the
clhblilhment of the EnO-India Company, a fquadron
was fitted out, and under the comiiland of l.anca(ler
(who was then Riled general) in the year 1601. The
rquipincnt confided of four Ihips, with four hundred
and eighty men on board. Three of thole vcflTels
were fo weakened bv the fcui^y, when they had got
only three degrees beyond the equinoxial line, that
the merchants, who had embarked on this adventure,
were obliged to do duty as common failors. At fia,
on fliorc, ami at Soldania, the then place of refrelh-
tnenton this fide the Cape of Good Hope, there died
in all, nearly a fourth part of their complement, and
that before they had proceeded halfway to the place
of their deAination. Sir William Hawkins, who lived
in that age, an intelligent and brave fea-oHicer. has left
it upon record, " that in twenty years, during which he
had ufed the fea, he could give an account often thou,
land mariners who had been confumed by the fcurvy
alone." If then in the very infancy of the naval power
of England, fo many were deflroycd by that bane of fea-
faring men, what muft have been the havock made
Jincc that early date, while our fleet has been gradu-
ally incrcafing, new ports for commerce ojiening, and
yet fo little advancement made in the nautical part of
medicine. And within our own remembrance, when
it might have been cxpeded. that whatever tended to
aggrandize the naval power of Great Britain, and to ex-
tend her cortimcrce, would have received the Ingheft
inipi-ovcment: yet, even at thefe latter dates, we fliali
ftid lew tneafures were adopted to prefervc the health
of fcatncn, more than had been known to our un-
informed ancertors. The fuccefsful, but mournful ex-
pedition of Commodore Anfon, afterwards an admiral,
iind lord, alfords a melancholy proof of the truth of
this aflcrtion. After having pafled the ftraitsofLa
Mairc, the fcurvy b^an to Tage violently in this little
fquadron; and by the time the Centurion had ad-
vanced but a little way into the South Sea, forty-fcven
failors died of it in that fliip ; nor were there fcarcely
any on board, who had not, in fomc degree, been
toiichcd with the diftemper, though they had not at
that time been quite eight months from England, In
the ninth month, when abrcaft of the ifland of Juan
I'crnandez, the Centurion loft double that number ;
and fuch an amazing fwift progrefs did the mortality
make in this fingle thip, that before they landed 00
that ifland the had buried 200 of her hands ; not be-
iiig able to mufler any more in a watch, capable c£
doing duty, than two quarter mafters, and fix ten.
mart men. This was the condition of one of the three
fliips which reached that ifland j and the other two
No. 24.
futfercd in proportion; Nor did the deftrbyer ftophcre
hit cruel ranges, but, after a few months refpite, re-
newed hi* atiacMi for the lame difeafe broke out
afrell). making fuch havock, that before the Centurion
(in which were the whole furvivino crews of the three
(hips) hid reached the ifland of T'inian, there died
fuinciimes eight or ten in a day, fn that when they had
bct-n only two years on their voyage, they had loft a
larger proportion than of four in live of their original
numh.T, and all of them after having entered the
Sifnony of Capt.
Cook and others, in lavour of Sweet Wort, as being
the bcft antifcorbutic medicine yet known. •' I have
found (obfcrvcs this gentleman) the wort of the utmoft
fervicc in all fcorbucic cafes duHng the voyage. Ai
many took it by way of prevention, few cafes occurred
where it had a fair trial i but thefe, however, I flatter
myfcif, will be futlkicnt to convince every impartial
pcrfon, it is the bed remedy hitherto found out for the
cure of the fea fcurvy j and I am well convinced, from
what I have fxn the wort perform, and from its mode
of operation, that if aided by portable foup, four-krout,
fugar, fago, and currants, the fcurvy, that maritime pef-
tilence.willfeldom.or never make itsappearance among
a fliip's crew, on the longcft voyages ; proper care with
regard to cleanlinefsand provilions being obferved." It
hath been conftantly oblerved by ouf fea-furgeons, that
in long cruizes, or diftant voyages, the fcurvy never
makes its alarming apfxarance. lolongasthc men have
their full allowance of fmall beer j but that when it is all
expended, the diforder foon prevails : it were therefoiv
to be wiflied,that our fliips would afford fulficient room
for this wholefome beverage. But, we are informed, the
Ruflians both on board, as well as on land, make the
following middle quality between wort and fmall beer.
They take ground malt and rye meal in a ceruin pro-
portion, which they knead into fmall loaves, and bake
m the oven. Thefe they infufe occafionally in a pro-
per quantity of warm water, which beginsTo foon to
femient, that in the fpacc of 34 hours, their brewage
is completed, and a fmall, brilk, acetous liquor pro-
duced, to which they have given the name of quaa.
Dr. Mounfey, who lived long in Ruffia, in writing to
his friends in England, obferves. that the quas is the
common and faluury drink both of the fleets and
armies of that empire, and that it was peculiarly good.
The fame gentleman having vifited thefeveral pnfons
in the city of MoTcow, was fuiprized to find it foil of
3 K . mal .^uStora
ill I
m
1 ■ ';
202
Cijit. C O O K's V 6 V A O E S COMPLETE.
: 1 :. I
c:
W il ''
:lf^
malcfatSton, but more To when he could difcovcr no
fever among them, nor learn that, any acute didempcri
peculiar to jails, had ever been know/i there. He ob>
fcrved, that fome oi'thofe places ifat confinement had a
yard, for the ufe of the prlfonen, but in others with-
out that advantage, they were not' Ikklv: fo that he
could aflign no other k-eafon for the healthful condition
of thoftmcn, than their kind of diet, which was the
lame with that of the common people of the country,
who live moftly on rye-bread (a (trorw acefcent) and
drink quas. Upon his return to St. Peterfburgh, he
had made the fame enquiry there, and with the fame
refult. From this account it (hould feem, that the
rye-meal both quickens the fenncntation, and adds
more fixed air, fincc the malt alone could not fo readily
produce fuch a tart, brifk liquor. And there is little
doubt, but that whenever the other grains can be
brought to a proper degree of fermentation, they
will more or lefs in the fame way become ufeful. That
oats will, we are convinced from an experiment made
by Capt. Cook. When on a cruize in the EiFcx, a
74 gun Ihip. and the fcurvy breaking out among his
crew, he rccolleded a kind of food moft proper on that
occafion, which he had fecn ufed in fome parts of the
north, called Sooins. This is made by putting fome
oat-meal into a wooden veflcl ; then pouring hot water
upon it, let the infufion continue until the liquor be-
gms totaflc fourifl), that is, till a fermentation comes
on, which, in a place moderately warm, may be pro-
duced in iibout two days. The water muft then be
poured oH'from the grounds, and boiled down to the
conliftence of a jelly. This the Captain ordered to be
made and dealt out in meflcs, being firfl fweeteneti with
fugar, and fcafoncd with fome prize French wine,
which, though turned four, improved the tade. This
diet chiefly, not lefs palatable than medicinal, and by
abdaining from fait meats, quite recovered his fcor-
butic lick, not only in this, but in fubfequent cmizes,
without his being obliged to fend one of them on ihore
becaufe they could not recover at fea. Before the power
of the fixed air in fubduing putrcfaiflion was known,
the efficacy of fruits, greens, and fermented liquors
was commonly afcribed to the acid in their compo-
fition; and we have flill reafon to believe, that the
acid concurs in operating that cffed. In cafe of a
farcity in thefe articles, or a deficiency of malt, or when
the grain Ihould be fpoiled, other fubflitutes may be
found very lerviceable; as diflilled water, acidulated
with the fpiritof fea fait, in the proportion of only ten
drops to a quart; or with the weak fpirit of vitriol,
•hirtcen drops to the fame meafure, which may be given
to thofe who are threatened with the fcurvy, at lead
three quarts of this liquor daily, to be drank with dif-
grounded
clafs of alcalefccnts was fuppofed to be a promoter.
III. Portable Soup was another article with which
the Refolution was plentifully fupplicd. An ounce to
each man, or fuch other quantity as circumftances
pointed out, was boiled in their pcafc daily, three days
in every week; and when vegetables were to be had it
was boiled with them. Of this were made feveral
nourifhing meffes, which occafioncd the crew to cat a
greater quantity of vegetables than they would other-
wife have done. This broth being freed from all fat,
and liaving by long boiling cvapoiatcd the moft putrc-
fcent parts of^ the meat, is reduced to the confiftence of
a glue, which in effed it is, and will, like other glues,
in a dry place, keep found for many years.
IV. The Rob of Oranges a;id Lemons, which the
furgeon made ufe of in many cafes, with great fuccefs.
Capt. Cook, it has been obfervcd. did not much rely
on thefe acids as a prcfcrvativc againft the fcurvy ; for
which the following reafon has been afllgncd by one
of our moft eminent phyfical profciTors. Tbcfc pre-
parations being only lent out upon trial, the furgeon
of the fhip was told how much he might give wr a
dofe, without ftricUy limiting the quantum. The exr
periment was made with the quuntity fpecified. but
with fo little fuccefs, that judging it not prudent to
lofe more time, he let about the cure with the wort
alone, of the cfhcacy of which he was fully convinced ;
while he referved the robs for other purpofcs j more
particularly for colds, when to a large draught of
warm water, with fome fpirits and fugar, he added i|
fpoonful of one of them, and with thefe ingredients
made a grateful fudoritic that anfwered his intention.
To which we may add, as worthy of notice, that as they
had been reduced to a fmall proportion of their bulk
by evaporation, it is probable they were much weaken-
ed, and that with their aqueous particles they had, by
the fire, loit not a little of their aerial. If therefore a
further trial of thefe juices were to be made, they (liould
be fent to fea purified and entire in caiks, agreeable
to a propofal lent into the Admiralty (bmc yer.rs ago,
by an experienced furgeon of the navy. Upon the
whole, the teftimonics in favour of the falutary qualities
of thefe acids are fo numerous, and fo ftrong. that w^
(liould look upon fome failures, even in cafes where their
want of fuccefs cannot fo well be accounted for as in
this voyage, not a fuflicicnt reafon for ftriking them out
of this lift of prefervatives againfl the confuming ma-
lady to which feamen are particularly fubjct^i:. Nor
muft we omit obfcrving under this head, that Capt.
Cook fays not more in praife of vinegar than of the
robs, as appears from an extrad of a letter, which he
wrote to the prefident of the Royal Society, dated
Plymouth Sound. July 7th, 1776. " I entirely agree
with you, (fays the Captain) that the dearncfs of the
Rob of Lemons., and oiOranges, will hinder them f-om
being purchafed in lai^ge quantities ; but I do not
think thefe foneceflary; for though they may afTill other
things, I have no great opinion of them alone. Nor
have I a higher opinion ot vinegar. My people had it
very fparingly during the late voyage ; and towards the
latter part, none at all ; and yet wc experienced no ill
cfFeds from the want of it. The cuftomof walhinK
the infideof the fhijp with vinegar I fcldom obfervcd,
thinking fire and unoke anfwered the purpofe much
better." We will not controvert the poiition here laid
down by Capt. Cook, nor would wc infer from hence,
that he thought vinegar of little I'ervice to a (hip's
company, but only that as he happened in this voyage
to be fparingly provided with it. and yet did well, he
could not therefore conlider a large ftore of vinegar to
be fo material an article of provilions, as was common-
ly imagined : but notwithftanding the Captain fup-
plied itt place with four krout, and truftcd chiefly to
(ire
COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE-rfor making Difcoveriei in the SauthSias & Round the World.
%K for purifying his dccki, yet it is to be hoped future
oavigators will not wholly omit fuch a rcfrcihing and
I'fcful article. It is. at (call a wholcfome variety in
feafoning, very proper for cleanfing the receptacles of
the lick, and may be ufcd at times, fuccersfully as
• medicine. The phyficianhimfclf will fniell to vine-
gar to prevent infeaion from contagious difcafes, and
the fmell is certainly agreeable to tlK< lick, crpecially to
fuch who may be confined to a foul and crowded
ward. Thus much for the falutary articles that have
af late been added to the naval (lores of all the king's
ftips on long voyages, which Capt. Cook ordered to
be difpenfcdT as occafion might require, in a bountiful
manner ; to which he added the following regulations,
cither wholly new, or hints from Sir Hugh Pallifer,
Captains Campbell, Wallis, and other experienced
friends ; and as from thcfc he formed a plan to which
all his (hip's company were to conform, he made them
his own, and we may therefore juQIy place the merit to
our (kilful commander's account.
. V. CaptainCook put hiscrew at three watches, indcad
of two ; that is, he formed his whole crew into three
divifions, each of which was ordered upon the watch
by the boatfwain four hours at a time ; fo that every
man had eight houra free, fur four of duty : whereas
at watch and watch, the half of the men being on
duty at once, with returns of it every four hours, they
can have but broken deep, and when cxpofed to wet,
they cannot have time to get dry before the whiOlc
calls them up, or they may lie down to rdt thenifelves.
When fervicc requires, hard(hips niuft be endured,
and no men in the world encounter theni fo readily,
and with fuch alacrity, as our thorough bred Eng-
lifh feamen do ; neverthclefs. When there is no prelTing
call, ought not our brave, hardy mariners to be in-
dulged with as much uninterhipted rcll as our com-
mon labourers ? Indeed it is the pradicc of all good
officers to expofe their men as little to wet weather as
pofTible J and we doubt not but they will pay attention
to what was made an cdential point with our humane
commander. In the torrid zone he (haded his peoj)le
from the fcorching rays of the fun by an aw ning over
his deck s and in his courfe under the fouthern pqlar
circle, he provided for each man what the faiiors called
their Maghellanjacket, made of a fubftantial woollen
ftulf, with the addition of a hood for covering their
heads ; and this garb they found moft comfortable for
Working in rain and fnow, and among the loofe ice in
high fouthern latitudes. If Rome decreed a civic
crown to him who faved the life of a (ingle citizen,
what honorary rewards, what-j^aifes are due to that
hero, who contrived, and employed, fuch new means
to fave many ; means, whereby Britannia will no more
lament, on the return of her fhips from didant voyages,
the lofs of her bold fons, her intrepid mariners, who by
braving every danger, have fo liberally contributed to
the profperity, opulence, and glory of her maritime
empire !
VI. Unremitted care was takciLto guard againft pu-
trcfadion, and a variety of nicafurcs purfued, in order
to procure, and maintain, a purity of air in the ftiip.
To this end, feme wood, and that not fparingly, being
put into a proper (love, was lighted, and carried fuc-
cc(rively to every part below deck. Wherever fire is,
theairneared toit, being heated, becomes fpecilically
lighter, and by being lighter rifes, and palTes through
the hatchways into the atmofphere. The partial va-
cuum is filled with die cold air around, and that being
heated in its turn, in like manner afcends, and it re-
placed with other air as before. Thus by continuing
the fire for fome timcr in any of the lower apartments,
the foul air is in a good meafure driven out, and the
frefli admitted. Bcfides, the acid fleams of the wood,
in burning, adl probably here as an antifeptic, and cor-
rcdl the corrupted air that remains. The fbip was ge-
nerally thus aired with fires once or twice a week. It
has been obferved by an officer of diftinguilhed tank,
that all the old twenty gun (hips were remarkably lefi
fickly than thole equal iii dimenfions, but of modem
conarudlwa} which circutuftancc he could no«ther>
4
I
wife account for, than by the former having their fire*
place or kitchen in the fore part of the deck immedi-
ately above the hold, where the Hue vented fo ill, that,
when the wind was a-ftern, every part was filled with
fntokc. This was a nuifance for the time, but which
was abundantly compenfated by the good health of the
(everal crews > for thofe fire places dried the lower
decks, much more when placed below, than they can
now under the forc-caflle upon the upper deck. But
the niofl beneficial end aiifwered by thefe portable
(loves was, their drying up the damps, and foul
moifturc, efpecially in thofe places where the air was
mod likely to be corrupted for the want of a free cir-
culation. This foul moifture is formed of the breath,
and pcrfpirable matter of a multitude of men, of the
animals, or live flock, and of the fleams of the bilge
water from the well, where the flagnated corruption is
the greatcft. This putrid humidity, being one of the
principal fouroes of the fcorbutic difcafe, was, in order
to its removal, particularly attended to ; and while the
fires were burning, forae of the hands were employed
in rubbing hard, with canvafs, or oakum, every part
of the fhip that was damp and aocefTible. But the
advantage of thefe means, for preferving the health of
mariners, appeared no where fo confpicuous, as in pu-
rifying the well : which being lituated in the lowed
part of the hold, the whole leakage runs into it, whe-
ther of the (hip itfelf, or the calks of fpoiled meat, or
corrupted water. Yet this place was rendered both
fafcand fweet by means of an iron pot filled with lire,
and let down to burn therein : we fay fafe, becaufe the
noxious vapours, from this (ink alone, have often been
the caufe of inllantaneous death to thofe who have un-
warily approached to clean it ; and not to one only,
but to feveral fucccffivcly, when they have gone down
to fuccour their unfortunate alTiflants. When this
wholefome procefs could not take place, by reafonof
flormy weather, the fliip was fumigated with gunpow-
der, mixed with vinegar or water. The fmoke could
have little effedl in drying, but it might correcflthe pu*
trid air, by means of the acid fpirits from the (\ilphur
and nitre, a(7ided perhaps by the aerial fluid, then dif-
engaged from the fuel, to counterad putrefaction.
Theic purifications by gunpowder, by burning tar, and
other refinous fubdances, are fufficiently kuown. Wc
wifli the fame could be faid of the ventilator, invented
by Dr. Hales, the credit of w hich, though wc are con-
vinced of its excellence, is far from being eftabliftied
in the navy. Perhaps Capt. Cook had not time to exa-
mine it. and thcretoK would not encumber his fliip
with a machine he had polTibly never feen worked, and
of which, he had, at bed, received but a doubtful
(haradler; and wc find he was not altogether unpro-
vided with an apparatus for ventilation. He had the
windfalls, which he found very ferviccable, particularly
between the tropics. They take up little room, require
no labour in working, and the invention is fo fimplc,
that they can fail in no hands ; but, yet their powers
are fmall in comparifon with thofe of Haless venti-
lator » add to which, they cannot be put up in hard
gales of wind, and they are of no ufe m dead calms,
when a circulation of air is chiefly necelTary, and re-
quired.
VII. The attention of Capt. Cook wasdireifted not
only to the fliip. but to the perfons, hammocks, bed-
ding, cloaths, &c. of the crew, and even to the uten-
flls they ufed, that the whole might be condantlykept
clean and dry. Proper attention was paid to the fliip's
coppers ; and Ae fat which boiled out of the fait beef
and pork, the Captain never fuflcred to be given to the
people, being of opinion that it promotes the fcurvy,
Cleanlincfs is not only conducive to health, it alfo tends
to regularity, and is the patron of other virtues. If
you can perfuade thofe who are to be under command,
to be moiie cleanly than they are difpofed to be of them-
fdves,:tfaoy will become more fober, more orderl)-, and
roort- attentive to their duty. The practice in the
army verifiei this obfervation i yet, we confefs, a ma-
riner has indifferent means to keep hiinfclf clean, had
he the indtnation to. danit; but. in our opinion, fea
officers
i :
104
dipt. C O O K'l
VOYAGES COMPLETE.
I.
' H
K
>
Ifi
' Sii^
t !
bflkcn might avail themrdves of the Kill for ^vi-
ding frcfh water (br the purpore of vi»OAnffi feeing it
U well known thit fait water will not inik with ibap. and
linen wet with brine fcldom thoroughly driet. as for
Ci^pt. Cddk, one morning, in every weeki he pafled
hit ihip't compitny in trvitw. and faw that every liian
had chariged his linen, and was in other poinM at
clean as circumftances would permit ; and the finequeht
opportunities he had of uking in frefh water aihOng
the iflands in the South Sea, enabled him to allow his
crew a fufficient quantity of this wholefimte article for
every ufe ; and this brings us to another ufeful means
conducive to the health of Icamen.
VIII. Capt. Cook thought frefli water from the fliore
preferable to that which has been kept fome time on
board a (hip, and therefore he was careful to procure
a fupply of this eifential article wherever it was to be
obtained, even though his company were not in want
of it : nor were they ever at an allowance, but had al-
ways fufficient for every neceflary purpofe. Nor was
the Captain without an apparatus for dillillingfrelh wa-
ter; but thoug!-. lie availed himfelf fometimes of the
invention, he did not relv on it, finding by experi-
ments, that he could not obtain by this means nearly fo
much as was expedlcd. This was no difappointinent
to him, fince within the fbuthcm tropic, in the Pacific
Ocean, he difcovcred fo many iflands, all well flored
with whoicfomc fprings j and when in the high lati-
tudes, far from a lingle fountain, he found the.hard-
iliips and dangers infeparabic from the frigid zone, in
feme degree compeniatcd by the lingular felicity he
enjoyed. Of extraoing incxhauflible fupplics of frefh
water from an ocean (Irewcd with ice, Tiiofe Very
flioals, fields, and floating mountains of i<:e, among
which he fleered his perilous courfe, and which pre-
ftnted fuch terrifying objeds of dcitrudion, were the
very means of his fupport, by fupplying him abun-
dantly with what he mod wanted. I'hat all frozen
water would thaw into fi'fh, was a paradox that had
been alTetted, but met with little credit : even Capr.
Ceok himfelf expcded no fuch tranfmutation ; and
therefore was agreeably fuipriftd to find he had one
difficulty Icfs to encounter, namely, tl»t of preferving
the health of his men folong«n fait and putrid provi-
fions, with a fcanty allowance of, perhaps, foul water,
or only what he could obtain by the ufe of the ftil). An
antient writer of great authority, no lefs than one of
the Pliny's, had affigned. from theory, bad qualities
to melted fnow ; but our judicious commander affirm*,
that melted ice of the fca is not only frefli, but fofi, and
fo wholefome, as to fhew the Macy of human rcafbn
unlUpported by experiment*. And what is veiy re-
markable, though m the midfl of fleets, fidls of mow,
thick fogs, and much moift weather, the Refblution
enjoyed nearly the fanw flate of health, fhe had ex-
perienced in the temperate and torrid zones. Indeed
towards the end of the (everal courfes. JbnM of the
mariners b^n to complain of the fcurvy, but thk
difeafe made little progrefs ; nor were odier diforden,
colds, diarrhoeas, intermittentt, and continued
as
fevers, either numerous, alarming, or iittal. Nor
muft we omit here the renaark of a celebrated phy-
ftcian; who juftly obferves, " that much commendation
is due to the attention and abilities of Mr. Fatten, the
furaeon of the Refolution, for having fo wdl fecond-
edhis Captain in the difcbaive of nisdiflv. For it
muft be allowed, that in defpite of the bdt regulati-
ons, and the beft provifionsr there will alwtya be among
a numerous crew, during a long voyage, fome cafu-
altiea more or lefs produdive of fickneft,- and unlefs
thefe be an intelligent medical aflUfauiton boafd,many,
under the wifeft commander, will perifh, that other-
wife might have been fiiTed^ Wojhall cMiwe once
IX. ThittCapt. Cook was jwt only cncfiil to lepk-
niOi, whenever oppoitunity permined, hit caflu with
water) bat be pravided his mca with all kindi «f ic^
ficihmenu. both animal and mgoMe, dntheomld
meet with, and by -ewnr tatuu in hia power : *«fe.
evcnif aotpkaOiftttliep^Be^ heobGyrfhia peo-
3
pie to Ufe, both by examine and authoi-ity r bu^.tRy
benefits arifing from refreflunents of any kind foon be
^ame fo dbvious, that he had little occafion to reconv
mend the one, or exert the other. Thus did this ex'i
pert and humane navigator eihplqy aU the means and
ri^lations, which the art of hitin fuggcfted, or th#
God of nature provided for the moft benevdent pur*
pofe, even that of preferving the health and lives of
thofe intrufted to his care, mre is greater merh: than a
difcovery ct frozen unknown countries could have
claimed ; and which wiltexifl, in the opinion of everj"
benevolent mind, a fubjed of admiration and praife,
when die dilutes aboiut a fouthem continent, fnall no
longer en^[age the atteiition, or divide the judgment of
phUofophical enquirer^. This is a memorial more lafl'
ing than the mimic bult, or the emblazoned medal j
for this can never perifh, but will remain engraven pnl
the hearts of Englifhmen to their latcft poftenty. ti/lkf
future navigators fpring out of this bright eximipte,
not only to perpetuate his iuflly acquired fame, but to
imitate his labours for the advancement of natural
knowledge, the good of fociety, and the tnie glory of
Great Britain.
A TABLE of the Lamgi'aoe ufed by the NATivet of
the SbciiTV Isles, in Grammatical Order; to
Which is affixed an Explanation of their m£amno
in English.
1
Noi'NS.
Warradce
Aȣfr
Momoa
An Ancle
Maa
Al'tnent
Tacrcc
Adion
Fefc
Abfcefs '
Nohora
Abode
Tccho
Adulterer
Toe
Axe
Eteourooa
Affcmhly
Miffln
• imjperity
'' JrAze (body i/J
Taan, ton
Tarra
Owba
Omoa
■ •PeiHt ef ditto
Eoome
■ Arrow
Oomaia
Aufwtr
Madoohowhy
Reemii
Apfnbatm
Arm
Ee
AriHpit
Evarre
Araet
Waura
Alive '
Oopeere • '■•
Adbefive
Nana
Awry
Arra. Era
Awake
Parou. mou
True
Fata, hoito
Aoerfe
Ptepeere
Avarrtuus
Ama. Heaim ^
Emotto
Mamed
A Battle
Poe
Bead
Eteoe. Eatee
Bag
Eraeunoo
Bait
Eeneeou
Bambof
Epaa
Hohote
Bank
Bark
Moene
Bajket of cocoa leavet
Errevy
PkpaMaieea
Ditto a fijber's
Ditto of plaintain flock
Apoaira
Ditto if cocoa leaves large
Vaihee
Dittoef ditto fmall
Hena
Dittotf twigs round
Fannatoonea
Bclftard
Peeretec
Beetle
Erao
Bu
Eraee.Moia
Bed
Oome oome
Beard
Omorre
Battle-axe
Mydiddc
Bate
Eevee. totu
Batebekr
Etama
Brother
EevM
Bme
fd'e
COOK'i SECOND VOYAGE— for making Difeeveries in the Souti Seas & Round the fTor/J. 20^
NOUNI.
Fefe
BUI
Evaa
Boat, or tmne
Toto.Ehi»oei
Blood
Meiec
Blifttr
Toona, tuu
BU/phmer
Totunceme
Bladder
Oore. cooha
Bitch
Eawou
Boldnefs
Manoo
Bird
HORM
Benevolaue
Tapatoo
Beggar
Pcpe
Butterfly
Eu
Bunch {of fruit)
Te, amhaoo
Buds
Peerara
Bonetto, afijb
ETanna
Bmo
Aroahooa
Bow-flriHg
Mydidde
Boy
Eama
Branch
Teeteere
Brifknefs
Ooroo
Bread-fruit
Epatea
£hoe
Ditto {ti particular kind)
Ditto (pafteof)
Tappnooroo
Bread-tree (gum of the')
Edaooroo
Ditto (leaf of the)
Ditto (pith of the)
Poooroo
Taoome
Breaft.plate
Ery
The Brow
Oma
Breaji
Ahooha
Brain
Era
Boards (carved of a Maray)
Tooa
Back
Frno
Bad
Ecoonoo
Baked
Oopobooto
BaldJieaded
Tatum
Bare 1
Fenooa Maoure
Barref-land '
Ere, ere
Black
Mattt-po
Blind
Maneea
Blunt
Ooaweera]
Broiled
Motoo
Broken
Auraura
BrmiH
Pappa
A Crab
Ooora
Cray.fijh
Torea
Curlerv
OhoDC
Convolvulus
Orahooc
Cork
Taura
Cordage
Epecho
Corner
Pee, pccrc
Covetoufnffs
Mare
Cough
Pccceya
Covering ofajijh's gills
Nonoa
Coynefs
Roowa
Crab (land)
M0tO3
Crack
Teitci
Cripple
Arawcrcwa
Coekoe (a irown)
Toopooe
the Crown ofthj head
Emotootoo
Cramp
Boe
Core of an apple
Faout*
Cloth-ploMt
Aceoo
Claw u Converfation
Wahcine, pooha Contempt (name of)
Madoo, howhy Confent
Evaheea CmfufedH^s
Tatou Computation
Teeya Company
Marcede Cold(fenfeof)
Ey Coitim
^"'wy Cloth round the waifl, and 4
Jhirt
Heappa.heappa,Aade,pooee
ei, CV>np<)oeeei
Ooairara
Ahcerc, Ooa
Pooheere
Ooerai
Tceboota
Ahoo
Ewhou, arra
Etoo
Porhaoo
Eoore, tehai
Fanou, cvaho
Wara
Matamatea
Teeteere, Etirre
Poore, poore
Epooneina, Erooy
Goama, Eooee
Teate
Evahee
Ecoo, Eeewera
Ooa, peeape, Ehotto
Ooopeeo
Motoo
Etec
Epee
Hawa, hawa
Ehoonoa
Oo. atahai
Maheine
Heeva
Panee
Ooboota
Aouna
Adooa
Ooree
Eohoo
Mateina
Pkhoo
Mora
Eoo
Poeeree
Marama rama
Cotataheita
Matte noa
Tareea, tooree
Mona
Aheaoo
Erepo
Ehoonoa
Eeea
Faoooiic
Ewaou
Mattou
Topocta
Efao
Oomaro
Pammo
3F
Ditto (yellow)
Ditto (gummed)
Ditto (nankeen)
Ditto (dark brown)
Ditto (brown thin)
Ditto (an oblong piece of)
Ditto of any kind
Cl
AFIy
mute
Fh-catcher (a bird)
Hg
FM
Pkvl
Farunculus {a boil)
Flejh-mark
Fijfure
Fijbing'rod
Ftjb-pot
Fijbinr-wall
Fifl, *
Ditto [the cuckold)
Ditto (flat green and red)
Ditto (a yellow and flat) ^
Ditto (green and flat)
Ditto (fly'ig)
Finger
Fillip
Pdn
Fart
Father . " '
Ditto (a fief)
Feather
The Face
Fern-tree
Fin ofafijb
Flonvcr of a plant
Foot ^
Forehead
trapping of a flute
Fruit (yellow)
Ditto (ferfuthe)
Fruit
FriHioH '
Freckles
Flowers for ear-ornaments
Ditto (open)
Dittoofaplant
Flatnefs
Flapper {a fly)
Fifl (flrmng with in dancing)
Fire
Feeling (fenfe of)
Feeilenefs
Hooroo, hooroo, te manoo Feathers (red)
Mattou Fear
Mace Fat of meat
Moc, momjr Fainting
faattaatu Facetious
Hawarre Falfe
Peea Fat
Eheieu, Faca Fatigued
• 3
NOUNI.
Tcmy de poaree
Eooha
Fcnooa, maa
Eotc
Mahouta
Ooaro
Erepo
Eanna, anna
Sa, Oopya, Paya
oboona
OUFOO
Too boona tahetoo
Tooboona
Taata Aee, Erapoa nooe
HccoceoM
Tatooy
Tooncea
Tatooa
£ho-oo
Avoutoo
Orabooboo
Aaoo
Horoa
Anonoho
Tapa
Poorc, poore
Arahai
Tomo
Mamahou, Maro0
Efarre
Awhatta
Efarrepota
Ehamoote
Matau
Eeaoure
Erooa
Boa
Maoo, Maooa
Talha
Otoo
"trapappa
Totera
Toe
Tootou
Oraro
Eteete
Eroroo
Hinnahcina
Ehoo
Peepce
Oetoeto
Epoote
Ereema
Peelcoi
One one
Oopo
Evoua
Enanea
Ahoutoo
Peerc, pecrc
Po>oorou
Etooec, Eoowha
Etohe
Tamorou
Epace no t'Enee
Niahcine, Amauhattoi
Eeaoure
E&o
En, eta
Mahanna, hanna
Teimaha
Mato
Poheea
,Fa, atn.ata
Pororce, Pocca
Motoo
Fellno (a young clever one, tr
ky)
Female kind
Fertile, land
Few ,. ,
FbwH
Ftrgot
Fau
Frtfl}
rUl (fatisfied)
■A Grandfon
Great-great-prandfather
Creat-erandfatber
Gratitffather
Glutton
Gta/s (Ming)
Girthing manufaSure
Girl
Girdle
Gimblet
Garland of flvwers
Gut (the blind) , , ,
Cuts ofanitnals
Generofity ,
Grafs
Groin (the)
Green
Great
Grafping
Good-natured
A Hit, orhoufe
tbttfe on props
Ditto (a targe one)
Ditto (of office)
Hook (fiflb)
Ditto (a particular fort)
Hole
Hig
Hill
Ditto (called one tree)
Heron (a blue)
Ditto (a white)
Hedge-hog (thefea)
Hatchet
Harbour
Harangue
Hammer
the Hair
Ditto (grey)
Ditto (red)
Ditto (^curled)
Ditto (wooelly or frizzled)
Ditto (tied up)
Hand
Ditto I deformed)
Ditto \a motion with)
Head
Ditto (/horn)
Head-ach, tccqfioned by dnm*
kennefs
Heart of an animal
Hibifcus (a flower)
Ditto (tvitbyellow flowers)
Hiccup
Hips
Ditto (puniluatedl^
Horizon
Houfe-wife (the induflriats)
Honejh
Hearfenefs
Hardineft
Heat
Heavy
High
m
Jf&mrmt
UiHgty,9rbiuger
Anl/bt
Miheine
■^ssKsssasHSB?
COOKrs SECOND VOYAGE— for mtkingDtytowiries iii the Sdut6 Seas & Round the WorU. a 07
NouNf.
Maheine Opataieehu
Etee
Eta
Taboone
Weeata
Oore, ceeooe
Teohe
Tawytte
Teepy
Taeea
Erahoo
Myro
Peepeere
Tec, tee
Roa .*
Poo
Tccpy
Tapona
Vanodoo
Teebona
Tec, poo
Etooree
Ootno .. .
Erooro
Earee, dahai
Emoteea
Fooahooa
Matte
Ootoo
Ehoonoa
Hawa, hava
Heeoeeotta
Teeonai
Mo-o
Taata, hawarre
Tao
Ewhaouna
Eraa, Eara
Fenooa. W^eaooa
Paraou
Inguifitivt (a tatling «
. man)
Image of a human figure
Jaw {the lower)
Jealoufy (in a woman)
Ignorance
ill-natured
Imft
Incejl
Indolence
Indu/iry
Ink [for funHuatitti)
Itch (the)
Inhospitable
Indigent
Immenfe
Immature
Indolent, idle
A Knot
Ditto (a double one)
Ditto {a female one)
Knuckle
Knee
Kite that boys flay with
King-fijher
King
Kernel of a eocoa nut
Kidneys (the)
Killed
4 Loufe
Lover
laofenefs
Looking-glafs
Lobjier
Lizard
Liar
Lance, irjfear
Lagoon
Ladder
Land, a country
Language
Tiniorodee,teTiinorodeeZ)'//o ujedin dancing
Nooe
Teepy
Awy
Maramarama
Oowaira
Ootoo
Teetoo, arapoa
Oopeca
Hea, hea, Papoo
Aooweew4
Eawawa
Mama
Eete
Tei, tei
Arahai
Aeo
Toohai
P06, poo. Poo
Kou ou
Taato toa
Worou, worou
Miooa. Moua
Madooa, waheine
^lepe
'Whattarau
Marama
Atoonoa
Rypoeea
Ea
Teera
Evanne
Moea
Poorou
Eeerce
Ottaha
Largenefs
Laztnejs
Leg (the)
Day-light
Lightning
Lips (ti^
Lungs (the)
Lujiy
Lew
Loofe
Loathfome
Light
Little
Lame
Large
Lean of meat
Lean, /lender
A hlujket, or any kind of fire
arms
lAufcU-Jhell
Murderer
Multitude
mountain, or bill
Mother
Moth
Monument (funeral)
Month (lunar)
Mole, or mark
Mift, or fog
Meafure
Maft of a came
Mat
Ditto (afilky kind)
Ditto (a coarjifort)
Mark Ca black et^ ,fi tbe
fitn)
Man of war bird
NOUKI,
Taata, Taane
Taata, hamaneenb
Tooreea
Etoa
Teropoo
Marama
Oopoeepoee
Evaha
Hceva
Ecva
Tapaoo
; Ooata
I Mouateitei
I Mouahaha
I Pereraou
I Mamma, haoo
; Otoora, heipo
; Ehoohoo
Worou, worou,
manoo
Para, Pe
Wararee
Patea
Matte. Matteroa
Fatebooa
Eeeoa
Taatatooboo
Oopaia
j Oporo
JEoo
j Eriha
1 Aree
! Eeehee
' Popoheo
,' Aeeoo
Eure
Aec
Tatou
'• Wawatea
! Po. Eaoo
Narreeda
Taturra
jPeere, peerc
Erepo
iHou
i Poto. Whattata
jEmoo
Oohoppe, pooaia
Ooomoo
Ewhatto
Iteea
Pahooa
Erapaoo
Ty, Meede
Ooapee
Maray Wharre
Tooee, tareea
Warawara
Monoe
Oopeea
Nonoa
Orawheva
Eatea
Ferei
Watoowheitte
Tahoua
Eoua
Oorahdo
Omo
Erabo
i Epeeho
' Hooahoua
Eroope
Oooopa
Oooowydero
Popoee
Hawa, hava
Taata po Erapaoo.
Man . .
Ditto (a bad one)
Maid, er girl
Tbe Male of any animal
'Middle of any thing
Moon
Morning
Mouth
^ufic
fuming
pitto (leaves, ufedon that ec-
eafion)
Motion
Mountains of thefirjl order
Ditto of the fecond ditto
"Ditto of the third dittt
Modejiy
Midnight
Maggots
irnanoo,
Many
Mature
Moijl
Motherly
Murdered
Mute
A Noun, er name of a thing
Native
Net (fijhing one)
Night Jhade
Nipple
Nit
Nut (cocoa)
Ditto a large comprejfed dittt
The Nojlrils
Nail
Ditto of iron
Neck
Numeration
Noon
Night
Needles
Naked
Narrow
Najly
New
Nigh
Noify
An Orphan
Oven
Owner
Oyjier (large fort)
Ditto (another fort)
Ointment plafier
Tbe Ocean
Outfide of a thing
Ornaments (burial)
g^itto (for the ear)
rder
Oil (perfumed)
Obefitjy (fatnefs)
Odoriferous
Old
Open (fpacious)
Ditto (notfhut)
Oppofite
Apriefi
Porpoife
Poll
Plant
Ditto (afmallftrt)
Plain
Pintle
Pigeon (a wood)
Ditto (green arid white)
Ditto (black and white)
Pudding
Purring
PhyJIaan
Aroo
• VOYAGES COMPLETE.
NOUM*.
Aroumaicea
Awa
Teaoo
Poe
Pye. py*
Eara
Earetea
Parooroo
Eaa
Cveenee
Medooa
Anoho
Ehoe
Etanea
Apooreema
Etararo
Amaa, Eatta
Oe, oc, or oi oi
Ahooa
Oomam
Awaawa
Faiee
Maicea, Maya
Patooneha
Mamma
Mamy
Meatee
Kee
Pacta
Maroo
Teetec
Wahapoo
Teeopa
Eooee
Pceha
FatlebQpa
Etirre
Hoe, fahcrre
Taun
Apoo, Ea
Faoo
Eaou
Eeea. Taata
Eara
Maino
Awao
Ehoonooa
Yorcc. Eyone
Oo-ec
Maitoe
Euooa
Maiho
Pooance
T, Ewahci
Enooa
Tooroore
Coatapone
Tooe, tooe
Eooa
£wao wao
EotU
Parourc
Oora, oora. Matde
F.wlia
Epotoo
Para. Pu Ooopw
Ooawaira
Koope.
Tarra, tarra
Eroo
Hornwai
Tarooa
Papa. Papa, rooa
Pitttaai ef ffaintain Itavtt
Peffer-fltmt
PeaH
Pavement
Path, or road
Pap, r- fir ait
Partiu,a
Parnquet (green)
Ditto (blue J
Parent
Pair
Paddle of a tantt
Tbe Palate
Palm of the hand
Part below the tonne
Tbe fedunele, or ftalk of «
fhta
Point of any thing
Pumpkins
Potatoes (Fuieet)
Pol/on (bitter J
plantains (bo^)
Plantain tree (the fruit of
tbe)
Perfons of dijiin/lion
Pc^e {a fermented)
Pap
PainCthefenfetf)
Petty (/mail)
Plane (/moeth)
Pleafed (not croft)
Poor
Pregnant
Prone, or face downwards
Pure, clear
A Siijiver
^ietnefs
S^icineft
A Rudder, or fleering paddle ef
a canoe
Rape
Root
Rock
Reef of rocks
Robier, or thief
Road, or path
Ring
Rib
Refu/al
Rat
Rafp, or file
Raft of Bamboo
Rainbow
Rail (fpotud with black,
&c.)
Ditto (another fort)
The Remainder
Ringworm (a difeafej
RaUing of thejbip
Running (to efcape)
Refpiration
Ram
Rank (infmell)
Raw meat
Raw fruit
Red
Rent
Rich
Ripe
Reafied, or broiled
Rotten
Rifugb
A Sw3l (of the fed)
Surf of thejea
Storm
Stool, to ley tbe head on
wbentfmf
Noun*.
Owhay
5/«w
Paiaoo
Ditto (polijhed, H «m4» tht
Tame
Stick (a walking)
Everee
Star-Jjb
Efaitoo. Hwett*
Star
Etootee
Stage (afgbting)
Tao
Spear
aore
Ewhaeono
Opai
Heeva
Song
Myde
Sen
Hoonoa
Son-in-lavf
Tcetce
A Snipe, or rather « ti^^rf
jemblinr on*
Snake ifia)
Pooheearo*
Ema
Sling "^
Tooeinc
Sifler
Shirt (white)
Parooy
Pahce
Ship
Porchoo
SbeU(3yger)
DittoTafmaU one)
Otco
Mao
Shark
Towtow
Servant, or common ferfin
Moray
Papa
Fatoo whaira
Sepulchre
Seat
Seam, between txi» planks
Heawy
Sea-egg.
EUU
Stoop, with vsbicb veater
is emptied from a cu'
me
Etona
Scab
Eecoo
Saw
Ewhoee
Skate-fifb
Mahanna. Era.
Tbe Sun
Teincea tc Mahanna
Ditto (the meridian)
Eaha
String of a auiver
Ponau
Stopper of data
Paraeea
Stomach
Tapooy
SoU of tbe foot
Eraee
Skin
Eerec '
Ereeawo
Side
Atou, ataou
Ditto (the right)
Ditto (the left)
Aroode
Eata
Shore .
Etoroo tc paia
Seyne(a net)
Seed of a plant
Hooatootoo, Ehoocro
Tacc, Mccde
Sea
Poohc
Sea-cat
Eeeai
Sail of a came
Tyty, Mcede
Salt, orfalt-vitaea
Eone
Sand
Whatihca
Saturn
Eoora
Smoke
Tabooa, Manoo
Sauiider's ifland
Poa
Scales of afijh
Otoobo, Otoobo
Sciffart {a peur of)
Ehcco
Seeing (tbe fenfe of)
Arawha
Shipwreck
Tana
Shoes (mud, orfiJhin£^
Matte my Mamy
Sicknefs
Faea
Fattcbooa
Sighing
Silencf
Moeroa
Sleep, or death
Fatatoo, Ootoo, too,too Smelling (the fenfe of)
Bappara
Smutting (with charcoal, at
funeral ceremonies)
Machccai
Sneeung
Hoope
Mucus
Teireida
Stbernefs
Softnefs
Maroo
Mamay
Sorenefs, or pain
Pacena
Sound
Mattaareva
Squint-eyed
Euhaaou
Suicide
Eto, Too
Sugar-cane
Wccala
Stupidity
Apet
Striking in dantint)
Tootoone
COOK'i SECOND VQYAGfi^Jfor making Dijt*utrieshn the Soiith ^>di& Rftfhd the WorU. 309
r/»-
TootooM
NOUNI.
Namooa, Neeneo ,
Pahoore hoore
Maroo, maroo
Ooee
Popotoo
Opanee, Poopeepe
Oowhyada
Marra, marroa. Fata
Eete
Pays
Mato
Peere, peere j
Oomara
AbooU
Poheea
Fateenba
Aow
Etapayroy
' llaneeo
Too, pappou
Ehonoo
Efarre pootoo pootoo
Erao
Toa Erao
Manooroa
Etaec
Ero
Ehoppe
Epiro^
Too
Oeeo
Tamata
Eneeheeo
Arapoa
Ereema, erab^
Erero '
Mahea
Evaeero^ Paraoti, ttbu
Aoiidou
Fafa
Otoootteepo
Pateere
Hoeoire
Fatebooa
Paraou, no te «pe6
"Wahecy
Meoomeoo
Apeubau
Tooe, tooe
Eworeroo, Eworepo
Ahoooue
Opfii
Areeoi
Poo
Epao
Maniuhouna
Oomutte
Aiboo
Tourooa
. Ewoua
Ara, ha(, Mai, vajm
Nana
Mouna
Ootee
Waheine
Waheine mou
Evaroiwit Eatopa
Ereou
Malaeeoup^ee
Maheine
Watooneea
EnM
Ho. a j.
5/0;;^/, fuch as fland ii^gbt
\ btfore tbt buts
. Stinking - ■ ' ''
Scratched
Shady
Sharp ("keen idgtd)
Short
Shut ("not 9fen)
Similar
Slow '
Small
Smooth
Steep (approaching to a per-
pendicutar)
Strait (not wide)
StrongCasaJirfingmnJ '
Struck- '^ .
Sultry »^^t:/ *'
Supine (with thefau lip)
A Tide, or current
Title {belonging to a Woman
of quality J
Toe
. Tomb
Torloife
Town
Tree
Ditto from v)hich tlubs, &c.
are made
Tropic bird
Turban
Tail
Ditto of a bird
Tetotum
Teat, or dug
Tern (a bird)
TaJtiugCfenfeof)
The Teeth
Throat
Thumb I
Tongue '' _ i
Twins
Truth
Trembling
Touching
Time (a fpace from 6/010.
at night
Thunder \
Throwing (in dancing)
Thoughtfulnefs '
Thoughts
Thirfl
. Thickntfs (infolid bodies)
:. Tenants
Thick Cfubjlanct)
Ditto (muddy J
Tough'
An Ulcer
Unmarried perfoH
Unripe
A Vapour (luminous)
Vagal \j>rfubjetf)
Vejftl (in which liquor is
Ditto (any hollow ent)
■ Venus
, Veins (the) [
Vafi
A Vvry-neck
Wr^ler
Wou»d
H^oman
Ditto C a married on/ey
■ Wifh (to one whoffutTsts)
■ ^'."S C'f « tijdj
Window
mfe
Widow
Wtdgt
Noun a.
Toria
Taatatoa
Mattay
Mattacc
Momoa
EpQuntt ^^*
Avy
Patoa
Erao
Eimeo
Peenata
Heappa
Mceo, meco
Wart
Warrior (or rather a nun*
killer) ^ 1
Wind (the) '
Ditto (the South'EttffS
Wri/l (the)
Whi/lling (ufed tt Ctttl the
people to meals)
Water
■Water-creffes
Wood of any kind
Terk IJland
Tounir
Telliw
Wrinkled
- Promovmi.
Wou. Mee
Nooo
Totaooa " . ,-
No-oe \
Taooa, Aroorooa
Oe
Nana
/, myfelf, me
Mine
Thing
We, both of ui
Tou
He
Verbs.
Eteci
Eooawai
Ehootee
Homy, Hapymy
Fyroo, tooty ,
Taprahai '.
Oboo
Tcimotoro
Toopy
Erookoo
I'arry
Erooy
Fafefe
Etatce
Aahoo
Fatte
Ehooee, Ehoo-o
Etooo
To Abide
'^ Agitate
' Angle
Ajkfor a thing
- Wipe the baekjidt
Bajlinade
To Bathe
Bawl
■ Beat upon
Beat a drum
Befpatter
Belch
• Bend any thing '
■ Bewail
Bite, as a dog
Blow the mfe
Bore a hole
Bow with the head
.1
Owhattc, Owhanne, VMtBreak a thing
Watte weete wc teaho
Homy
Doodooe
Too-Qtooooo
Eamo
Evaha
Popoee. Peert)
Amawheea' ' ^
Ehoote
Ey
Ehee, te, me, «yty
Taharee
Tararo
Encat
Aaooa
Taee
Eparoo
Otee
Oono
Eooepoeunoo,
il little time, a fmallfpacei'
Tatnoo,
- A long time, a great while*
Areeana, j|
lyait.ftay a little.
WounI, wocara,
fyell recovered, or wellefcapedt
Poorotoo,
It is Well, charming finei
Ehara, Eharya, Ycnaeea,
IVbat's tbatf (inqui/itively)
Owy te aceoa,
H'Ttat do you call that .' What is the name of itt
Wheca,
IVbcnf at what timet
"tehca^
Where is it t \
Owy, tanna, Owy nana.
Who is that t what is be called t
Aceoo,
Will I not do it f (expreffed angrily)
Terra, tanne,
She is a tnarried woman, fbe has got another bufband.
Explanation of the foregoing and following TAaLBS»
fo far as rcfpeds the pronunciation of the worda.
V^hatever rules n«y be laid down for pronouncing
a living language, they caii be of little fervice to a pcr-
fon defirous of fpealqng the fame with purity : that
pronunciation being bed, ifjiotonlyi attained, by living
m the country, and a friendly communication witn
the natives. However, for the better underrtanding
the language in thefe tobies, we (hall make a few ob-
fervatiofis on the powers of the vowels, viz.
A. is founded the fame as A long in the Englifli
tongue, as in the word angel i e has three powers, and
has the fame fimple founds as in the words eloquence,
bred, then. '
/. in the middle of words, founds like that vowel in
the word indolence. Sometimes it is reprefented by j.
And fometixnes by the proper diphthong ee.
O. is oftefi expreffed by ♦«», and founds the fame as in
vMMiomgpod.
U. is generally expreflcd by eu, and has a long and
fhort found, as in the words unity, umlrage.
T. in the middle or end of words, founds like /, as
by, «y. But before a vowel or at the beginning of a
word, it is a confonant, as in the Engl^ words yes,
yell. •'
The diphthongs ee and oo are proper, and make but
one fimple found.
pi
.h&
n
S
I
I
If
&il
. \\
i
TABLE
ait
Ctpt. COOK'i VOYAGES C O M P L E T E.
. ULliitf
■»"■•"*■
I
uiat
'■
^
CQ
I
H
«9
a
CO w
iu
»3
f
Ml
^2
1 1 si 8^ il^^l
il
i
S z IzSj
r
•^,i\A\ r
N
E.
I II I lllll llllalll
< &
I
3
I
•fi s
li;
i.\iis%
§3
(2 \t&^>^(
< 2 w ^ o <
S
w
^ |;§l£"lsllll'(5lll
ll g.
Illls
iai
HWH<;z;
1 lit'
Eiia
Liili?
S o »
.<<<<<<<<<
8
r( 8 O ije9vtriet in the Som$i Seask. Round »!u IVorM. % 1 3
LiiT of the Bark ENDEAVOUR'i OrriciRi and Paukmuim in Capt. CpoK'a FtatT Vovavi round the World.
OrrictRi, &c>
Namis.
CoMMANDiR, Capt. Jamrs Cock,
3d. Lteutrnant Zacharifb tVicks,
* 3d. LitulftMHt Jtbn Corr,
MAtTiR, R*^trl Molintmi,
BoATtWAiN, JnbnGalberay,
Cakpentih, tyiUiam SatUrif,
Cook, ydm tbomfon,
GuNNiR, Stephen Forwood,
Surgeon, tVtlliitm Brougham MoHkbotf/e^
MAtTiR'iMATt, Charlei Clerkf,
Ditto,
Ditto,
MlUIHIPMAN,
Ditto,
Ditto,
Ditto,
Ditto,
Ditto,
Richard Puker/gill,
Alexandrr IVeir,
John lyilliam Bootif,
Jonathan M
RINES, John Edgeeumte,
PASSENGER S.
yo/epbBanlu,Effi
Dr. Daniel Solauder,
DRAUOIITaMEN of
Mr. Banks. Herman Diedrieb Sporeing,
Sydney ParUtffn,
— Buchan,
AiTRONOMIB, Charles Green,
Died at Deptford foon after hia return.
A lieutenam of the royal navy.
Navy fuiveon, loft on Scilly in the Nancy Packet from
A purfcr of the royal navy.
Ditto.
»
Now a captain.
The prefcnt prefident of the Royal Society, now $if
Jofcph.
Died lately m Londoiu
A Sweede, died of a flux after leaving Bauvia.
A Qi{aker. dilto.
Diedaftera (hort ilintfaat Otaheite of fatigue.
Died of an inverted gout, after leaving Batavia.
• Capt. Gore ha» complcated four Voyaget round the World, befides rervijig long in th« former war on board the Windfin
&c. tK.
\L
List of the Sloop RESOLUTlONa OrrieERa and Mi«, in Capt. Cooit'a SicoUD Voyaoi rauftd the Woiiu».
■i 1
Tub RESOLUTION.
Opficbrs, &c.
captain.
Lieutenants,
Mafter,
Boatfwain,
Carpenter,
Gunner,
Surgeon,
Matters Mates
Midfliipmen
Surgeon's Mates
Captain's Gerk
AlTiftant,
Mafter at arms
Names.
James Cook.
Richard Pickerfgill.
Robert P. Cooper.
Charles Clerke.
Jofeph Gilbert.
James Gray.
James Wallis.
Robert Anderfpn.
James Patcen.
3
6
Hogg.
Cbrporal
Armourer
Mate
SaiUimker
Mate
BoatfWain's Mates
Carpenter's Mates
Gtinner't Mates
Cartmtter'sCrew
Coek
Mate
.Quarter Mafters
Able Seamen ,,
Lieutenant of Marines. John Edgcumbe.'
Serjeant i
Corponia %
Dnmuner i
Pirivatet 15
t
I
t
I
I
3
3
3
4
I
I
6
45
W.
..:ri
M
!!'!
No. 25.
JH
Lt«T
314
Cip«. COOK* VOYAGES COMPLETE.
I-
il
11'
LiiT ofchc AuviN ruKt'iOrrii-kiii and M«n in Capt. Cook's SkonuVoyaue round the WuRLit,
Tm« ADVENTURE
OrricKRs, ice.
N;«MIIS.
Captain,
Tobias Funieaux.
Lieutenants,
Arthur Keinpc.
luCcph Shank.
Peter Fannin.
Maftcr.
Doaifwain,
luiward Johns.
Carpenter,
WilUaniOHbrd.
Ciunncr,
Andrew Gloag.
Siirffcnn,
Mttrter'n Mates
Thomas Andrews.
8
Midfliipiiien
Surgeon's Mate
Ca)iuin's Clerk
Maftcr at Arms
Corporal
Armourer
Mate
Sail-maker
Mate
Boatfwain's Mutes
Carpenter'* Mates
Gunner's Mate
Carpenter's Crew
Cook
Mate
tjuarter Maftcrs
Able Seamen
Licuteoaat of Marines,
Serjeant
Corporal
Drummer
Privates
4
JanKs Scott.
I
I
I
,• Having prepared a nmpletf narrative (from dupli-
Ciiifs of the triiiihil journals cX fntrid offictrs, who
failed in the Refolulm when (he was dcOined to
explore the Pacijic Otean) of Capl. Cook's Third
VoY;«or, theft/z/or^of thisfow/*/*-/^ COL1.ECTICW
of VoYAUEs ROL'Nt) TiiK WoKLD, thought it their
duty to lomfitiiY it with all the dijferttit acctunis hi-
therto publifliedof that fflfiral, J voy.ij^r, merely to
corrcd any circumftancc which might have been
placed in various points of view by the fcvcral
writers. The //m-»/ relalims of this Voyage as
already given to the public by Evohs, Nnckry,
Moorf, Ellis, Joiifs, himr, &c. &c. together with
llvfv publiJM in all the Maftts.mes and News-
papers, as well as thofc faid to be pi^lijhtd ky and
dfdualed to the Lords of the Admirally, have been
carefully confultcd, and have not only been found
to contradifl each other very materially, but alfo to
vary in fome imporlatit points from tne maimferipls
and materials which have furniflied mr tarn account. —
We think it necdiary therefore to bcftow fime time,
and eotf/ideralle pains, to luvf/ligaie the inconfiftencies
here alluded to, in order that we may be enabled to
prefcnt too«ir very numerous fuhfcrihers (in the conrfe
of this uork) what we pledged ourfcives to do in
our Propofals, viz. to give a nctv, authentic, full,
and complete Account oi Cook's last Voyage to the
Pacific Ofctm, and which wjU cpfiuin ail.t\^/a^fj*
"'iftiideiit.-f and ci'rcumjlaiicf si' relucd ia % /atisjalfory
manner. In the mean time, nothing (hall be want-
ing to render this work ahj'olutrly the 1>,-Jl extent j all
the large fplcndid copper-plates, map, charts, flee, will
be delivered as they are received (roiii the feveral «•«-
gravers, yt,\\\{:\\ will be diredled to be placed right iii
the laft Number: an J t\\c strand general Chart oi t)M
World will certainly be given in our next numter,
which will (hew Capl. (j>ok's ditferent routs in his three
/u,cct:lJive ■i-oyages, and all his diffcveries in one point
of view. In the week after next will be delivered
to the Subfcribers a lar^e folio print, finely engraved,
rcprefentingthci/crt/ifrol tapt. Cook. Wc (hall now
proceed to give a ne^v ami accurate Account of Com-
modore Byron's Voyaoi round the IVorld, as it waa
the firjl undertaken and performed during the r>rii-
/ent reign j after which wc intend to record tnofe
of Wallis, Carteret, &c. and the public may
depend, that the only rcafon wc have not given
Cook's Third Voyage in this part of our Col-
lection, is, that we may be able to give a morefull
AnA/atisfanory account of this celebrated voyage, than
has ever beentublijbed by any pcrfon or perrans what-
ever ; and after having perrorroed our arduous talk,
we doubt not, but our Subfcribers, and the Public,
will readily acknowledge, that -by our care and cir-
cuinfpe£tion, we (hall nave detected numerous fal-
fities which have been foifted on the public, and
rcpj cfcntcd SaiiL-aiA. artuiijlattees aa they reallf
happened.
A NEW
/ '
NEW, AOTHESTIC, and COMPLETE ACpOUMT and NARRATIVE, of
A VOYAGE Round the WORLD,
UNDERTAKEN lind PERFORMED !!
By the Hon. Commodore (now Admiral) BYRON,
In hifi Majeily's Ship the DOLPHIN, accompanied by
Capt. M O U A T in the Tamar Sloop.
UNDERTAKEN PRINCIPALLY
For making Difcovcrics in the Southern Ocean, between the Cape of Good Hope,
and the Magellanic Straits }
And Conttining, among a Variety of other intcrcfting Particularj,
A genuine Account of the Straitt of Magellan, and of the gigantic race of People called Patagonians t
alfo a Survey of reverallflandidifcoveredin the Southern Hemifpherc i together with a minute, cir-
cumftantial, and full Defcription of the fevcral Places, People, Anirnnh, Vegetablei, and Natural
Curiofitiet, difcoveitd and feon in the Courfe of this remarkaule Voyage ; which was begun on the
3d of July 1764, and compleatcd the Qthof May, 1766) containing a Period of little more than
Twenty-two Months, and included in the Ye«r 1764, 1765, and 1766.
■«»#
Extraordinary ftfparat'mt m^it, mJ ffecautioiu ujed,
H, Aj
p. I.
s vtyag* — Namft nfwe hv»fl>ips, rnimier of nun, (Jc.-^Cir-
tumftoHcts previ9u$ !• IwJitHg Ibt brmdpemi.ini, and eurjriliiif; /a$l — Tb* Delpbin talus in btreuns at Long Rtjib, and
is ibtrejomrd by the Tamrjrigalt — TbeyfailfYom tbt Dmous, and arrive at I'lynmth — Anchor in th foumi-^PaJfage
fnm Plymouth h Madeira — Ob/trvalions oh this iJland—Htm Jrom bence to St. Jiigo one of the Cape de Frrd Ijkiids, end
Mchor in Port Praya—Ob/ervatiolis m the ijland and port — They make the (oaji of Brazil, and enter the harbour of Hit
ie Janeifo-~Qhftrv*ti(ms — Departure from this port, ioiad, as we thought, to the Eajl Indies — Ordtrs made limnun,
which were to go tit difcoveriet to the South Hea — -Tif UmphtH and Tamur make Cape Blanco, Penguin /Jle, and the bar-
tour of Port Delire— The Dolphin in danger ^ being lojt at tbii laft place — Ohfcrvatiout on the harbour and adjacent
tountiy-^Uipiirlure from Port Dejire in fiarcb of Pepy's fjknd-^ Anchor on the coafi of Patagonia, ten lei'.gues ivilbin the
mouth of the Straits of Magellan— An account of the extratrdinay jlature of fome inhabitant sfeen there— 'Proceed up the
Straits of Magellan to Port Famine — An account of the harbour, coajl, and inhabitants-^- A dtfription of the country^
particularly the woods; and the beautiful Sedgtr—Famourabte andpletf/ing tircumjlances during ourjlay here.
A D nfi T T I S prefent Majcfty, very early in life
A.u. 17 4. £-^ formed a plan ef diHinguifhing hi*
reign, by patronizing the profccution of New Difcove.
rics in the unknown regions of the Southern Hemir'
phere ; and we have been told, that he declared his in-
tention, foon after he came to thccrown, of appropria-
ting a great part of his revenue for that particular pur-
pole. In 1764, orders were given for carryifig this
laudable deiign into execution t in confequcftcc of
which, on the i8ih of April, preparations were made
to fit out the Dolphin (nip of war, and the Tanur
frigate, for a fuppsied voyage to the Eaft Indies. The
Dolphin was a tixth rate, niountining 14 guns, and had
three lieutenants, 37 petty officers, and i^ofcwnenon
board ; the Tainar mounted 16 guns, having on board
three lieutenants, a 2 petty officers, and 90 teamen.
The honourable Commodore (now Admiral) Byron
was appointed commander in chief, in the Dolphin,
and the command under him, of the frigate, was given
to Cant. Mouat. Both of thcfe veffels were fitted out
lor the purpofe of making difcoveries of countries
hitherto unknown, within the high fouthcrn latitudes.
convenient for navigation, and in climates adapted to
the produ«^ion of commodities ufcful in commerce,
particularly in the Atlantic Ocean, between the Cape
of Good Hope, pnd the Straits of Magellan. The
indrudions from the Admiralty-board to the commo-
dore, likewifc direded him to make an accurate furvcy
of Pepy's Ifland, and thpfe w hich had been named by
Sir John Narborough, Paulkland's Itlands, in honour
of lord Faulkland ; which, though firll difcovcrcd, and
fince vifited by Britifh navigators, had never iKcn fuf.
ficiontly examined, fo as that an accurate judgement
might be formed of their coads, natives, and produc-
tions. Greatcarc wastakcn and extraordinary precau-
tions ufed in preparing for this voyage. The bottom
of the Dolphin was flieat!\. v .h copper; as were like-
wife the braces and pintles for the ufc of the rudder,
which was the firft experiment of the kind, that had
ever been made on any veflel. On the 14th of S*-\y,
being ready tor fea, flic left the dock, when we received'
a number of men from the old hulks, which had been
for fomc time ufed to receive on board materials for
the ufc of the lliip. The next day we got in our maft^
m
l'M,i
K-
'Mi
i!^
ii6
VOYAGES ROUND the W O R L D C o m p l e t~e.
H 1
i, »
j(;i
il
and Mt^ith all expedition poflibtc, began to put up the
rigging ; the greatell part of the hands being now,
from the time of her leaving the dock, principally
employed In receiving the ftores, and in (hipping the
abiell feamcn, tiU the pth of June, whpn ttom, fwung round 1 howevert the ground
being very muddy, it kion gave way, and thla accident
Was attended with no other confequence, than her lying
in the mud about two hours. This .ciicumftance »t
our firlt fettipg out, which oCcafioncd only a fmlll
delay, inftcad of checking the '.rdour of our men, ferved
only to infpirc them with hopes of meeting with fewer
croifes in the profccution of tneir voyage. On the 1 6th
we anchored in the Downs, and moored the (hip. , Dur-
ing our continuance here, we fent the pilot on fliore,
and received from Deal a large twelve-oared barge for
the fcrvice of our fliip, with a quantity of frefli beef and
greens. This day the Tamar pafled us for Plymouth,
and on the day following we received the honourable
Capt. Byron on board.
I'hurfday the 21(1, we weighed and failed from the
Downs ; and in the night had a violent fquall of wind,
which, at that featon of the year, might be reck ned
rather uncommon. On the 33nd, at eieht o'clock,
A. M. we anchored in Plymouth Sound, and faluted the
a^lmiral with 13 guns; and at nine, having received a
pilot on board, failed into Hamouze, and lafhed along-
lide the Sheer Hulk. As the Dolphin had ukcn the
ground, the men on board were, according to orders,
employed in getting out the guns and booms fof dock-
ing; it being thought advifeablf to examine iffliehad
futUined any damage, when it appeared, that the (hip
had happily not received any hurt. On the 38th (he
came out of dock, and having replaced her guns and
ilorcs, we failed into the found, where we moored, and
found the Tamar lying between the ifland and the
main, having unhung ner rudder, to repair fome fmall
damage (he had fuitained. While we remained at
Plymouth, our men received two months pay advance,
in order to enable them to purchafe nccefTaries; a pri-
vilege granted to all his Majeity's (hips bound to diltant
ports ; at which time the inhabitants on (bore have the
liberty of coining on board to fell them ihirts, jackets,
and trowzers, which arc termed flops. After a flay of
four days, the honourable John Byron, ourCommodore,
hoi (led his broad-pendant, he bding, as was reported,
appointed commander in chief of all his Majefly's (hips
in the Eafl Indies. Immediately upon this a fignal
vas ma'.'.e tor (atling, by firing a gun, and loofingour
.top tails, which being fet, and another gun fired, we
took our dcpartuse from Plymouth on the 3d of July,
having his Majefly's frigate the Tamar in com-
panv.
On Wcdnefday the 4th df July, we (haped our courfe,
with a tine breeze, for the ifland of Madeira, during
w hich run, we had the vexation of obferving, that our
contort was a very heavy failer. On Thurfday the
1 2th, in the evening, we defcried the rocks near Ma-
deira called the Defcrts, from their defolate appea-
rance ; and on the 13th we came to an anchor in Fun-
chiale Bay ; fo named from the great abundance of a
beaut ilul kind of fennel that grows on the fliore.
It is on the fouth part of the ifland. and at the bottom
is the city of the fame name, feated on a fmall plain,
from which three rivers run into the fea, forming an
ifland called Loo Rock, it being entirely barren. Upon
this is plnced a caftlc, and the town is alfo defended by
1 high wall, and a battery of cannon. This ifland
is compofed of one continued hill of a confiderabic
height, extending from eaft to weft ; the declivity of
which on the fouth-fide is intcrfperfed with vineyards;
and in the midfl of this flopc are the countrj-fcats of
4'
the
the mei-chants, which add greatly to the beauty of the
profpciih The air is lb temperate, that the inliabitants
feel littlo inconvenience from heat and cold, there be-
ing here » perpetual fpring, which proJuces bloflbitis
and fruit throughout the year. Thcfu^l.ig lp.feuiic,
that It producers rrtors com than any of the ai^acMit
iflands of double the extent. The grafs flioots up li>
high, that they are sbliged to butn it ; asd w hen they
Iplant fugar canct inthca.lMs, in flix months time dwy
win produce a cori(!derablC quantity' of hi[v.ir. ^m
ifland abounds with fine cedar-trees, and ainiofl ail kinds
ofrich fruits, ptirticulnrfy gn}ies as large as our com-
mon plumbs ; but all the hne fruits are loo lulcious to
be eaten in any great quantities. The "ativfs arc (aid
to make the beft fwcct-meats in the world: theyc;*!
eel too in preferving oranccs. as alfo in I'nakinK i"^!*-
malades and pqrfymed paltes. The fugar made here
it nor on)y rcnuirkabiy tine, but b^s t|ie finell of
violets ; and the wine of this ifland will keep better
in long voyages and in hot countries, than that of any
other place in the known world, on which account
great quantities of it are bought up for the ufc of fliips,
and exported to the \Vcft Indies. Their convents have
a venerable appearance, from their age and flrudur«(.
Some of the iiiins belonging to them arc handfotiSe,
and, at particular hours, have the liberty of converflng
with flrangers. through a double barred grate. Their
chiet employment conflfls in making curious flowers of
all (brts, little baflcets. and other trinkets, in needle-
work, which they fell to their vifitors, and the money
is appropriated to the ufe of the convents. Notwith-
flancling the cxtraordiiury fertility of the ifland, pro-
viiionsofail kinds are very dear, the , iphabitantii Jiv-
ing chiefly on fruit and roots. There are foinc hogs
and fowls; but they cannot be procured without great
difficulty, except by way of exchange for old cloaths,
which in whatever condition, or of whatever kind, arc
e^rly fought after by the poor among the natives.
While we continued here, we were fupplied with frefli
beef, very indiflerent of the kind, as their bullocks.
[ either from want of fweet pathire, or from nature, arc
both lean, and under the common flzc. On our arrival
in the road of Ftinchiale, wc found the Ferrit and
Crown floop lying at anchor, who faluted our Gmi-
modore on his hoifling the broad-pendant, the fort alio
returned our falute with eleven guns; and on the 14th,
Commodore Byron waited on the governor, by whom
he was received with great politenefs ; and on the day
following the governor returned his viflt at the houle
of the conful. Having taken in our water, wine, and
other refrefliments for the ufe of both the ftiips com-
panics, on the 1 9th we began to prepare for proceeding
on our voyage.
On Friday the 20th, we took leave of the governor
by firing eleven guns, which compliment he returned
from the ciudeT; and at three o'clock, A. M. wc
weigheit anchor and (ct fail, in company with his Ma-
jefly's (hips the Crown, Ferrit, and Tamar. It is ob-
fervable, that in leaving this ifland flilps are in a man-
ner becalmed, till they get four or live leagues to the
leeward, where they are (lire to And a britk trading
wind. The next day we made the ifland of Palma,
one of the Canaries. ' Wfc now parted company with
the Crown and Ferrit, and on the 22d f|K>ke with his
majefly's (hip Liverpool from the Eaft Indies, by whom
we fent letters to England. This day we examined our
watcr-catks, and concluded, we were under a necelTity
to touch at one of the Cape dc Verd iflands ibr a
frelh fupply. On the 26th, our water being foul and
ftinking, we were obliged to have recourle to a kind
of ventuator, which forced the air through the water in
a continued ftream, whereby it was purified. On the
27th in the morning, we made the ifle of Sal, one of
the Cape de Verds, when obferving fcveral turtles on
the furface of the fea, we hoifled out our boat, in order
to ftrikc fome of them, but they a|l dilappearcd fa«tbre
our people were within reach of them, indeed we had
little chance of catching any forts of fl(h, for none of
the finny tribe would come near the (hip, becaufc (he
was (heathed with copper.
On
^UMMMUMW
Commodore BYRON's VOYAGE— for making Difcoverics in the Soui hern OcEA^;,&C. 417
On Monday the 30th, at two o'clock P. M. wc faw
the idand of St, Jagoj and at three came to an an-
chor, about a mile from the ftiore, in the bajr called
Port Praya, in nine fathoms water, having faluted a
fmall fortification bclongine to the Portuguefe, who re-
turned the compliment. At this time it was near the
lainy feafon, which, when fet in, renders this harbour
very unfafe j for a rolling fwcll from the fouthward
makes a frightful furf on the ftiorc. and every hour a
tornado may be expefted, which at times is very fu-
rious, and may produce fatal confequences to Ihip-
ping ; on which account no vcffcl comes here after the
I cth of Aiiguft, till the rainy feafon is over, which is
in the month of November. St. Jago is the largelt and
outward appearance, are moft
indigent wretxhes. A (hip no fooner arrives, than the
natives flock from all parts of the ifland with different
kinds of pttivilions : and thefe they exchange for old
clothes, particularly black, on which they fct the
higheft Value, and for a mere trifle of that kind, you
may be provided with a futTicient quantity of turkeys,
gcefc, fruit, and other ncceflary articles of fca-ftock.
ut, however wretched thefe people may appear at
the firft view, they live in the greateft plenty, and
from the fertility of the foil, enjoy not only the nccef-
faries, but what, in other places would be efteemed the
luxuries of life. Having by this time got on board a
fii{^ly of water, frelh provifions, and fruit, wc un-
moored, fignal having been made for our depar-^
ture.
On Thurfday, the and of Auguft, wc got under
foil, and put to fea, with the Tamarin company. Soon
»fter, the fcorching heat, and unccofing rain, aftcdlcd
the health of our crew, many of whom began to fall
down in fcvcrs, notwith(tanding the commodore took
the utmoft care to make the men, who were wet, fhift
themfclves, before they laid down to deep. On the
feth wc lod a good deal of way, by fliortening fail till
the Tamar came up, who had her topfail yard carried
away, tn thefe hot latitudes, (hips generally take fi(h
In plenty, but we were not able to catch one, the caufe
of which difappointmem, wc have already noticed.
On Thurfday, the 1 ith of September, we defcried
Cape Frio, on the coaft of Brazil, in the 23d degree
of fouth latitude, and the 42nd deg. 30 min. W. lon-
gitude from London. The next day, about noon, wc
entered the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, and anchored
in eighteen fathoms water, fort St. Acroufc bearing
S. E. half S. a remarkable peak, in the form of a fu-
i'ar-loaf, prefcnting itfelf to our view on the larboard
ide, at the fouth by eaft, and Snake's Idand, which is
the larged in the harbour, appearing clofe by the town
«t W. N. W. and the north end of 3ie town at W. half
N. On the 14th, we received a pilot on board, and
ran in between the idand and ntain, not a quarter of a
mile from the ihore, and at noon faluted the citadel
with eleven guns, which were immediately returned.
Our firft care was to get on board fredi providons for
the ftiips companies, which began to be m great want
of them, efpecially of greens, the fcurvy having al-
ready made its appearance among th? men on board.
On the 19th, our Commodore vifited the governor,
who received him in ftate putting the guard under
«rms : the nobility condui.:cd him to the viceroy's pa-
lace, while 1 5 guns were fkcd in honour of the Britift)
flag : his excellency afterwards returned the viflt, and
Was received by the Contmodorc on board the Dol-
phin, in a mnnner fuitable to his high rank. On this
occafton all hands manned the fliip, (landing on the
jrards with their arms extended juft to toucbeacn other i
No. 26. I
and a falutc was given with 15 guns, which was re-'
turned by an equal number from the citadel. On the
9th of Oiftober, Lord Clive, in the Kent Ihdiaman,
paid Commodore Byron a vifit, when he likewifc re-
ceived the fame compliment, both at his coming on
board, and his going away. The fame day a pilot
came on board to condudt us into the road, and at tix
o'clock P. M. we weighed, and fct our fails ; but
having little wind, we were obliged to come again to
an anchor, and wait till the next morning, during
which time wc had an opportunity of making a few
obfcrvations on the harbour, which fcemt capable of
receiving an hundred fail of diips in good anchorage,
with fumcient room for them to ride in fafcty. Tlie
town of Rio de Janeiro is commodiodlly fcated at the
back of Snake's idand, which being not al»vc five
hundred prds from it, commands, from the fortifica-
tions eredted on it, every thing that can poflibly conic
to annoy the town ; and there are fcvcmf other idands
at the entrance fortified with diiferent batteries. Thefe
fortifications appear fo forn>idable in the eyes of the
Portuguefe, that they are (o vain as to think, the whole
power of Europe would not be ftiflicient to deprive
them of their poflcflion i yet we may lafelyafTiim, that
fix '' •! of our men of war of the line would be able
tooLiuoy all their batteries in a few hours.
From the i jth of September to the 1 8th of Oiflobcr,
our men were employed in watering, .wooding, raulk-
ing, &c. We had fix Portuguefe caulkers to alTift our
carpenter, who were paid at the rate of fix Ihillings
fterling per diem, though it is certain, that one of our
EnglHh caulkers would do as much in one day, as they
could do in three; but though dow and inadive, they
perform their work very cornplctely. In this port the
air is refredied by a conftant fuccclTionof land and fea-
breezes ; the former comes in the morning, and con^
tinues till towards one o'clock, and foon after is rrgu<
larly fuccecded by a ftrong fea-brceze. Thefe contri-
bute to render the port very healthy and plcafant, and
arc juftly efteemed fo falutary, that the negroes term the
fea-breezc the Dodlor. The foil of Brazil is generally
fertile, it producing a variety of lofty trees fit for any
ufe, many of them unknown in Europe ; and the
woods abound with rich fruits, among which arc a con-
fideraUc number that are neither known in Europe, nor
in any parts of America. Oranges and lemons grow
here in as great plenty, as nuts in our woods in Eng*-
land.- The fugar-cane fk>uri(hes here in the utmoft
perfedlion, ana great quantities of excellent fugar, in-
digo, and cotton, arc exported from hence into Eu-
rope. Great quantities of gold are alfo found by the
flaves, numbers of whom arc employed in fearching
for it in gullies of torrents, and at the bottom of rivers ;
and this country is alfb famous for its diamonds. With
refpeft to the animals of Brafil, all the horfes, cows,
dogs and cats arc faid to have been brought from Eu-
rope : among thofc natural to the country are a great
variety of monkeys, Peruvian fticep, deer and hares t
the racoon, the armadillo, the flying fquirrcl, the guano,
the opofTum, the ant-bear, and the doth. Among the
fowls are many parrots, parroquets, ma :aws, and other
birds remarkable for the beauty of their pluivagc ; with
a great variety of finging birds, and fevcral fpccies of
wild geefe, wild ducks, common .poultry, partridges,
wood-pigeons and curliews. However, the country of
Brazil is no lefs remarkable for the multitude, the va-
riety, and incredible fize of its fnakes, and other veno-
mous reptiles. In Rio de Janeiro the viceroy is in-
verted with the fame power over the natives, as the king
of Portugal enjoys over his fubjeds in Lifbon. The
inhabitants, who arc of a brown complexion, have a
great number of negro daves, which they purchafc in
the public markets, where they are chained two and
two together, and generally driven round the town to
be expofcd to view. The women here are very fwarthy,
and have difagrecabic features ; but thofc of a fuperioc
rank are feldom fcen, as they are never fuftered to go
out of doors but by night The Portuguefe arc natu-
rally of fo jealous a dif(K>(ition, that ftrangers, merely by
looking at their women incur tlieii rcfentmcnf, and are
3 1 ^n
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2l8
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complete.
in danger of fuflfering by that fpirit of revenge, which
univenally prevails in this country ; on which account
the women are obliged to be always on their guard. In •
deed, they here fcldom enter upon matrimony t but
when tired of each other, they fcparatc by mutual con-
fent, and then endeavour to find out another paramour
to fupply the place of the former. As foon as the
evening approaches, the POrtuguefe of this city go
their rounds, and enter upon fcenes of debauchery,
which we may venture to affirm are asfrccjuent and fla-
gitious a> thofe between the inhabitants ot Lifbon. Rio
de Janeiro is feated near the fide of a number of high
hills, from whence to the fouthward is a very lai^gc aquc-
duifl, which fupplies the whole town with water. This
aqucdud, which extends acrofs a deep valley, conlifts
of above fifty arches placed in two rows, one upon ano-
ther, and in ibmc parts rife upwards of a hundred yards
from the bottom of the valley. By this means the ua-
ter is conveyed into two fountains, from whence the
inhabitants fetch all they want. Thefc ftand oppolitc
the viceroys palace, which is a ftately (lone building,
and the only one in the whole city that has wmdows ;
the other houfes in the town having only lattices. At
the further end of the palace (lands the jail for crimi-
nals, which from its ftrudure, and the multiplicity of
its iron grates, is far from adding any beauty to the
palace, to which it joins. The churches and the con-
vf "^ts arc extremely magnificent, and calculated to ftrikc
the paflions of the people who rcfort to them. On the
altar pieces, and other parts of thofe ftrudlurcs, arc
many fine figures of our Saviour, the Virgin Mary,
the Apoftles, and other faints. In thefc churches a
great number of friars and monks of different orders
are conftantly employed to celebrate mafs to as many as
happen to alfemble ; the churches being always open,
and waxupcrs kept continually burning; whence, in
palling by thefe (lru)lphin, and nine from the Tamar, were fcdutcd j
the latter were recovered, but the former- were clfec-
tually fccreted." All hands were now, being the 16th of
October, employed to complete the fitting the Dolphin
and Tamar lor ica, having all the rcafon poiliblc to be-
lieve, that we were bound to the Eall-Indies, and that
we fliould now proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, ihc
fcheme having been fo well concerted by the Commo-
dore, as even to deceive Lord Clivc, who prcflcd him
with great importunity to allow him to take his palliige
in the Dolphin, we being in much greater rcadmefs (or
fea than the Kent, which had befidcs the misfortune to
have many fick on board : but to this the Commodore
could not confent ; yet flattered his lordfhip with the
hopes of his taking him on board on their meeting ac
the Cape. _
On Saturday, the 20th, wc left this port, and the
coatl of Brazil, bound as we thought for the Cape of
Good Hope, but when at fea, by fleering to the fouth-
ward, we toourgreatfurprize found our midake; and
on the 22nd, we were relieved from our fufpencc; for
a fignal being made for the commander of the Tamar
frigata^to come onboard, he and our own company
were informed, that the Commodore's orders were to
go on difcoveries into the South Sea: a circumfiance
that, from the manner of which it was received, (ur-
nilhes the greateft rcafon to believe, that no one on
board had before the leaft notice of the voyage in which
they were now engaged. To this information the
Commodore added, that the good behaviour of our
company, by order of the lords of the Admiralty,
would be rewarded, with double pay, and other eiiu)-
lumcnts. This declaration was received with marks of
the highcft fatisfadion ; the crew promifcd obedience
to the Commodore as. to any orders he (liould give, and
exprelFcd their willingnefs to do ail in their power for
the fervice of their country. Some French writeti
have given a forced and very malevolent turn to this ge-
nerous condud; but the daring fpirit which charac-
terizes Britifh fcamen is too well known, for any one
to fuppofe, that an incrcalc of pay was nectfl'ary to
prompt them to do their duty in perilous fervice: and
the indances of diiintcrclled gencrolity which diftin-
guifh the Briti(h nation, cannot leave the true motive
which aduated the board of Admiralty, when it thus
dillributcd its bounty, any ways equivocal, or expofcd
to the mifconilrudion of invidious men. To make
the acquicfccnce of the French iaiiors, under the in-
attcntionof theirgovcrnment, when M. de Bouganvillc
failed round the world, an oicalion for calling a reflec-
tion on the Lnglilh faiiors, for the contr.-\ry condud of
government, in a fmiiiar cirrunWlancc, bcipcaks a fpe-
cics of mean fubtlety, uhiih can difgraie non? but
thole
Commodore BYRONs VOYAGE — for making Difcovcries in the SouintRN OctAM, &c. aiy
fpc«
but
thofe
thofc who pradice it, and which the Ipiritcd rivallhip
of that poliihcd nation docs not countenance.
On Monday, the 29th, it blew a violent hurricanci
and during the ftorni wc were obliced to throw lour of
our guns overboard. It continued ail nigiit, but tub.
fidcd on the morning of the .{oth, when v.c made fail,
and being arrived in latitude 35 dcg. 30 niin. S. wc
found the weather exceeding cold, though at this time
the latter end of October, which anfwcrs to our April,
in the northern and teniperatc xone, and wc were bc-
fides fixtcen degrees nearer the line than -it London.
A little more than a week before, we had fuHercd into-
lerable heat, fo that fuch a fuddcn change was moll fe-
verely felt. The feamen, having fuppofed, that they
were to continue in a hot climate during the whole
voyage, had difpofcdof all their warm cloathing at the
ports where we had touched, as alfo their very beddingj
fo that now, finding their midake, and being pinched
with cold, they applied for flops, and were iurnilhtd
with the necelFary articles for a cold climate.
On Friday the 2nd of November, the Commodore
delivered to the lieutenants of both fliips their commif-
fions, they having hitherto aded only under verbal or-
ders from him. On the 4th, the (hip was furrounded
with vaft flocks of birds, among which were fome
brown and white, and feveral pintadoeS, fomcwhat
larger than pigeons. Wc alfo in latitude j8 deg.
53 min. S. and in 51 deg. W. longitude^ faw a quanti-
ty of rock weed, and feveral fcals. On the i oth, we
perceived the water difcoloured ; and the next day we
flood in lor land, being in latitude 41 deg. 16 min. S.
and in 55 deg. 17 min. W. longitude. On the nth,
we ftcercd all night S. W. by W. and on Monday the
1 2th, we found ground at the depth of 45 fathoms : our
latitude was 42 dcg. 34 mtn. S. longitude 5 8 dcgj 1 7
min. W- About four o'clock, P. M. our people m the
fcrecaftle called out, " Land right a-hcad 1" At this
time it was exceeding black round the horizon, and we
had a good deal of thunder and lightening: the Lom-
modore himfclf imagined what wc firft defcried to be .
an ifland, which feemed to rife in two rude craggy hills;
the land adjbining to it appeared to run a long way to
the S. E. We were now fteering in a S. W. diredion,
and founded in 52 fathoms water. Our commander
thought himftlf embayed, and entertained little liope
of getting clear before night. We now (leered E. S. K.
the land ftill keeping the fame appearance, and the
hills looking blue, as they generally do at a fmall dif-
tancc, when feen in dark rainy weather. Many on
board aflerted, that they faw the fea break uoon the
fandy beaches, but after having made fail about an
hour, what had been taken for land, in a moment
vaniihed ; and, to the alloniihmcnt of every one, proved
to have been a mere deceptio vijiis, which feamen
call a fog-bank. Thefe delufions are frequently oc-
cafioncd by ridges of clouds, and fometimes, iii the
higher latitudes, by an extraordinary quality of the air.
to be accounted for only by the dodrine of refrailion.
Others have been equally deceived by thefe kind of il-
luftons. The mafter ofa veflel, not long (incc made
oath, that he had feen an ifland between the welt end of
Ireland and Newfoundland, and even diftinguiflied the
trees that grew upon it; yet it is now well known, that
no fuch ifland' exifts, at Icaft it could never be found,
though feveral fhips were afterwards fent out on purpoic
to feck it. And Commodore Byron was of opinion,
tha^if the. weather had not cleared up foonenoiitrh for
us to fee what wc had taken for land difappear, livery
man ot\ board would freely have made oath that land i
had been difcovered in this latitude of 43 dcg. 46 min.
S. and in 60 deg. 5 min. W. longitude. This falfe
appearance was fucceeded, on Tuefday the 13th, by
a fuddcn and tremendous hurricane. Notwithltanding
the weather was extremely fine, in the afternoon the
Iky grew black to windward, and a noifc was heard,
which refemblcd the breaking of the fea upon a fliailow'
beach, The thirds were obferved flying from the
quarter wlience the ftonn ilFued, and Ihrieking through
.the apprehcnlion of its approach. It was not pbftible ■
to make the necelFary preparations before it reached us. i
The fea rolled on towards us in vail billows rovcrod with
foam. Orders were inftantly given to ha«l up the fore
fail; and let go the main Ihcctj but before we could
raife the main tack, the Dolphin was laid upon her
beams. We now cut the main tack, for it was ira-
poffible to cart it oft", upon which, the main (heet llruck
down the fird lieutenant, much bruited him, and beat
out three of his teeth. The main-top fail not being
quite h.mded was fplit to pieces. The Tamar fplit her
main-fail, but being to the leeward, fhc had more time
toc prepare; and had not fufticient warning been given
by the agitation of the fea, the Dolphin mull have been
overfet, or her malls would have been tarried away:
It was the opin of all our people, that bad this florin
approached with lefs warning, and more violence, or had
it overtaken us in the night, the lliip mufl: have been
loll. Our Commodore thought this guft of wind more,
violent than any one he had encountered ; it lafled
about twenty minutes, and then fubfidcd. It blew,
however, hard all night, and on the 14th, we had -X
great fwell. The fea alfo appeared as if tinged witli
blood, owing to its being covered with fmall red cray-
filh, of which great quantities were taken up in bafkets
by the Ihip's company.
On the 15th, our three lieutenants and the ma^Qer
were fo ill as to be mcapabic of duing their duty ; but
the reft of our hands were in good health. Our latitude
this day was 45 dcg. 21 min. and longitude 63 deg.
1 min. E. On the' 16th, wc lluped our courfe for
Cape Blanco, agreeable to the chare of it, laid down in
Anion's voyage j and after many hard gales of wind,
on the 1 7th, wc faw the Cape, and lor two days llrug-
gled hard to reach Port Delire. We now Hood inio
d bay to the fouthward of the Ca-pe, but could find
no port. On the 20th, wc made Penguin Ifland, and
as Pott Delirc was faid to be three leagues to tlii
N. W. of it, ft boat was fent out, and having found it
we flood in for land ; . and anchored four miles from
the fhore.
On Wcdnefday the 21ft, wc weighed in ordei' to
enter the haibour of Port Delirc ; but found it very
rocky, and not above a quarter of a mile from fide to
fide. On our failing up, the wind was at S. S. W.
diredly in our favour, and the weather being remarka-
bly temperate, all our boats were round the (hip ; but
on a fuddcn the wind came about to the N. E. which
being diredly againll us, we made all polTible hafte to
get our fails furled ; but being within the haibour we
could not return, and the tide of flood running with
exceflive rapidity, we were obliged to let go both
anchors, and before wc could bring her up, Ihc took
the fhore. This was follo-Acd by a cold rainy night,
rendered more melancholy and gloomy by the rellcdion,
that the boats were all driven to fea, where every per : 11
in them would probably perilh, and that we ourfelves
had no reafon to exped our ever getting off, as both
the wind and tide were againll us, but chat wc Ihould
be obliged to live, or perhaps perifli, on this dcfert
coaft ot Patagonia, feveral hundred leagues to the
fouthward of any European fcttlement; but at length,
to our great joy, our twelvc-oared barge providentially
drove into the harbour, by which means the Ihip was
prcfcrved, for without thrs timely aflillancc Ihe mult
have pcrilhed, we having no boat to carry oui an an-
chor. After many attempts, we carried out our IVrcam
anchor, which, when the tide turned, enabled us, by
weighing our onher anchors, to get into the n iddle of
the harbour, where, with the I'amar in company, wc
moored both fhips : but as it blew very l-,ard, we were
obliged to take down our yards and topniails. Mean
white two of our boats had been driven on fliore, and
the men fuftcrcd' exbremcly from its raining very hard
all night : bat notwithltanding this they returned the
next dav. Ax to our long boat, it was carried many
leagues out to let, with only tw o men in it ; we had there-
fbre little profpectof feeing them again ; but on the 23d
they returned with the boat into harbour, though they
were almoiij*tti
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Commodore BYRON'i VOYAGE— for making Diitoverica in thcii"u 1 1 n o^ta n, .^tc. J
in the
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«ny immediate intcrcourfc >*ith the SpanianU pr PoC-
tufirucfc of South America. We m*il» not omit, that
before our landing, the greateft part il thii<
niant were on horfebttck, but on feeing
fliore, they difmounted, and left their htn
difttnce. Thefe horfe* were not lai^t, m,
cafe, yet they were well broken, «?u1 very i
bore no proportion to the fizc of their ridci
bridle wata leathern thong, with a fmall piiCCK
that ferved for a bit, and the faddliJ refcmblMl 1 1
in ufe amon^^; the country people in England,
women rode aflride, and Ixith men and women without
ftirrupt I yet they j^alloptd foarlcftly over the ("pit upon
which we landed, the Rones of which were large, loofc
and flippery. Thefe pcinplacency and good
nature. Such is the inforniaticiis we have received
from the papers of our journalift, whof<; veracity re-
quired no proof among thofc who have had thepleafurc
of his actiuaintance ; but as evidences in corroboration
of hid alTertions. and the truth of the fiids, we Ihall in-
fert here the following account of the Patagonians,
which we have received from a gentleman, who was alfo
an oflkcr in one of the fliips, and on (hore at the fame
time with our author.
The Dolphin having entered ten or twelve leagues
into the mouth of the itraits of Magellan, the mch on
deck obferved thirty or forty people of an extraordinary
Mature, Aanding on the beach of the continent, who
looking attentively on them, made friendly figns, by
which they fcemed to invite them to come on Ihorc ;
while others who flood aloft, difcovered with their
glaflcs a much greater number, about a mile farther up
the country ; but afcribed their apparent fizc to the
foggincfs of the air. The fhip happened at this inllant
to be becalmed ; the honourable Mr. Byron, thinking
no time would be lod by going alhorc, rcfolvcd to lano]
in order to fee thefe Indians, and learn what he could
«>f their manners ; he therefore ordered a fix-oared boat
for hin»felf and officers; and one of twelve oars to be
lilled with men and arms, as a fecurity, in cafe there
ihoHld be any attempt to furprizc or injure him, or any
of thofc who went with him ; though the people on
fliorc did not feem to have any thing like an oH'enfive
weapon among them. On the Commodore's landing, in
•company with his lieutenant, he made figns to the In-
dians, who were crouding round him, to retire, which
they very readily did, to the didanceof thirty or forty
yards. He then; attended by his lieutenant, advanced
towards them, about twenty yards, and their number
was fooo UKrcai'cd to upward* of five hundred men.
women, ««»d -hildrcn. SfVirai
paflcd on rtmh Mv*, the Iri li »ns
and fatikfaclion, by linking uftoHiin
hands, and fitting with l(N>ks ot pi'
wives and children round the Comm
buli'd nong them riblxms, and Urn
which rhey appeared highly tUlij^hto'
iiiLfs >und the necks of fevcral ol
fktr I to be from fevcn to eight If
ere for the mofl part about nii
mci
and
Ml U
lue more,
feet, anc'
but jull reach th
who was not, b' '
are well made,
Both fexci an
I lie Commodore 1
t 9t th', tlW
xpicding iheir jtof
l(«ll^», fltaik." t
're, Wio) ihttr
re, wh» diftri-
1)1 beads, Htih
lie I ' n«k-
le » .n, *ho
hi» hut the
Tet inhil^ht,
*!nh he Ho
wn of r>
.the taller
Hid fet, anil
a topptr
U- nwKun;*
on tip- () all navigator*, of whatever
country, a^rcr in alKrmirig the exiftence of a race of
giant* upon chofe coaOti nut during another century,
a much greater nuinher agree in denying the t'*tt,
treating their prrdecelliira at idle fubulilli. Ji,ir/v>iatt
fpeaki of a race of giant* in South America i and
the (/hcii (i.mi/ii/fii «/»• la f^iga in hi* hiftory of /Vr«,
i* dccilivcly on the fame lide of the queUioii. I'or
i/M '«rfi/4 lib. I. chap. 13 and 14, record* the American
tradition* concerning a race of giant*, and a deluge
which hap|)ened in reitiote time*, in thefc part*.
Magellan, Loaifa, Sanniento, and Nodal, antong the
Spandiard* 1 and L'avcndilh, Hawkina, and Knivct,
nntong the- Knglifh 1 Sebald, Oliver dc N(M)rt, Ic
Miiire, and SpillK-rg, among the Dutch, together
with fnnic l-'rench voyager*, all bear tellimony to the
fact, that the inhabitant* of Patagonia were of a
gigantic height: on the contrary, Winter, the Dutch
aclmiral Hennite, Frogcr, in Dc Genncs'* narrative,
imd Sir John Narboro»igli, deny it. Sir l-rancis
Drake, who failed throuirh the llraii*, fav* nothinj^
concerning it ; and hi* (ilence on this head can only
be accounted for on the fuppolition, cither that he
fnw no inhahitantii on the coall in his pnlFagc, or
tlitt there was nothing extraordinary in their .ip-
Iiearancc. To reconcile thcfe dilfcrcni opinions, we
lavc only to fuppofc that the country is inhabited by
dil^inct races of men, one of whom is ot a fize beyond
the ordinary pit< h, the other not gigantic, though
perhaps tall nnd remarkably large limbed ; and that
each polfels parts of the country feparatc and remote
fiom each other. That fomc giants inhabit thefc
rcj'ions can now no longer be aoubtcd ; lincc the
loncurrcnt tcftimony of late linglifli navigators, par-
ticularly Comnxxiore Byron, Captains Wallis and
Carteret, gentlemen of unqucftionable veracity, cfta-
blilh the tni\, from their not only having fecn and
convcrfed with thcfe people, but even mcafurcd them.
But it is time now to proceed with the hillory of our
vojagc.
On Friday the aifl of December, at three o'clock
P. M. wc wciphcil, and worked up the ftrait of
Magellan, which is here about three leagues broad,
not with a view to pais through it, but to take in a
proper ftock of wood and water, not chuling to trurt
wholly to the finding of Falkland's lilands, which we
determined afterwards to feek. At eight in the
evening wc anchored in 25 fathoms water, at the
dirtaiicc of three miles N.N. E. from Port PoirelTion,
in view of t«o remarkable hummocks, which Bulk-
K'T, from their appearance, di(\inguiflicd by the name
of the Alfcs l'.ars. On the 22nd, at three o'clock
A. M. wc weighed and ileered S. W. by W. about
four leagues, w lien the water flioaled to lix fathoms
and A half, wc being then over a bank of which no
notu e has hitherto been taken, and full three leagues
from the ftioic; but in two or three caftsof the log-
line, it deepened to i ;{ fathoms. When the water
was (hallow ert, the Alfcs Ears bore N. W. by W.
mtd the north point of the firft narrow W. by S. dil^ant
foinewhat more than five miles. Wc now fteercd
S. W. by S. two leagues to the firft narrow, as it is
iifually called, which brought us through. "This nar-
row is about three miles over, and is the narroweft
part of the llraits ; and through it a regular tide runs
with great rapidity. In this run wc law an Indian
mxin the foiith ihorc, who kept waving to us as long
as wc were in fight; alfo fomc guanicoes upon the
hills. The land is on each fide furroundcd with
thefe; but the country is entirely barren without a
ft fingle tree, yet wc here obfervcd great quantities of
finokc from diU'erent parts of the Inore. The courfe
of the firfl narrow to a little fea, or the found, is
S. W. by W. about eight leagues. The land on each
lide is of a moderate height, and rather higheft on
the north (hore, but runs low towards the fecond
narrow. On founding from the firft to the fecond
narrow, we found from 20 to 25 fathoms water, with
II gO(Kl anchorage: and it wa» there about U\rn league*
from the north fhore to the illand of leira del
Fuej(U. At the entrance or caft end o( the fecomJ
narrow lie* Cane (Gregory, whuh is u white diUnt u
nuKlerate height ; and a little to the n ithwurd of
it i« a fandy bay, in whieh ymi iiiiy ride in ij)»ht
fathoms water, with \cry gmid an huriKc. Winn
abreall of Cape (;regi)ry we llecnd S. W . half W.
live leagueii, through the fecond nirrow, having i
de|>th ot water from 20 to 35 fatluimi. Wc went
out of the weft end of this narrow ilviiit noon, and
ftecred three leagues Couth tor l.li/.abeth''. Illnnd.
At this part of the narnnv on the lonth llioie, i* a
white headland, called Sweepftakes I Drelaiid. 'I he
wind being right againft us we anchoied in feveii
fathom, 'rhe illand bore S. S. M. alxjut a mile il«(-
tant, and Bartholomew'* Illand bore l-:. S. li. In the
evening lix Indians came down to the water-(ide,
and contmued lor fomc time waving and hnllcwing
to us, but feeing their labour fruitieis, they went
away. Between the firft and fecond narrow* the
Hood fets to the S. W. and the cbh to the \. IC.
but being paft the fecond narrow, the. courfe with
a leading wind is .S. bv F« three leagues between St.
Bartholomew's and hii/.alKth's lilands, where the
channel is one mile and a half over. The Hood fet*
through to the fouthward with great vdieineiice and
rapiiliiy, fo that when near, it appears like bnakers,
and the tide round the illands fets diH'iient \\a)h.
On Sunday the 2jd we had very moderate
weather, but ha/y, with interv.ils ol Irelli hiee/es.
In the niorning we weighed, and wmked haween
the two illands: we got over on the north llioie be-
fore the tide w;is fpent, and anehorcvl in 10 laihom.
St. (Jeorge's Illand bore N. M. by N. dillant three
leagues; a jwint of land, which wc •named Porpoifc
Point, N. by W. diftant five miles, and the fmuliern-
moft land S. by E. dilhnt about two miles. In tho
evening wc again got under fail, and ftecred S. by E.
and at ten o'clock we anchored alwut a mile from tho
north fliorc, in ij fathoms. Sandy Point now bore
S. by E. diftant four miles; Porpoifc Point N. N. W.
three leagues, and St. George's Iftand N. E. four
leagues. On the 24th, we fent the boat to CounA
between Elizabeth's and St. Bartholomew's Illands.
and found it a very good channel, with deep water.
On this occafion we law a number of Indians, who
hallooed to us from Elizabeth's Illand. Both the
men and women were of the middle lize, well niaelc,
and with fmooth black hair. Their complexion waa
olive-coloured, and their boilies were rubbed over
with red earth, mixed with greafe. They arc very
adivc and fwift of foot. Their cloathing confifts of
Ikins of feals, otters, and guanicoes, feweil together
in a piece about four feet fquarc, and wrapped round
their bodies. Tliey have likewife a cap made of the
fltins of fowls with the feathers on ; and upon their
feet were pieces of Ikins to anfwer the purpofc of
Ihocs : belides, fomc of the females had pieces of
Ikin faftcned round their waifts. The women how-
ever had no caps, but wore a kind of necklace formed
of Ihell*. Several of the men had nothing wrapped
round them, but were entirely naked. This day
the Commodore, accompanied by his fecond lieu-
tenant landed upon Sandy Point, where they found
plenty of wood, with exceeding good water, and for
four miles of their walk the lliore was very pleafant.
A fine level country is over the point, and the foil
to all appearance is extremely rich. The ground
was covered with dift'ercnt kinds of flowers, that
periiimed the air with their fragrance, among which,
where the bloflbms had been flicd, wc faw berries in-
numerable, even the grafs was intermixed with peas
in blolfom. In this luxuriant herbage, a multitude
of birds were feeding, which on account of their' un-
conamon beautiful plumage, wc called painted geefc.
In our walk from Sandy Point, which was more than
1 2 miles, wc faw no part of tlie Ihore w here a boar
could land without great danger, the water being
every where Ihoal, aiid the fea breaking verr high.
CoMMODoRK HYKON's VOVA(ii:— lui u.akiii},' Oikovcrii-Mii ehc Sou nii kn t)i i .vn,.V.. .^5
In little rcttflci of the wmxl*, ami iil«a>» iumi- 10
frfrt* water, we difccvercd a «r(at niiinlKT <.[ wi(;-
wami. belonging to the Iniiuni, which h.ul Ikih
very lately oifupiLil. lor in lomc <»» tnc\u Uw iii«
were fcarcely cxtinnuiflu-d. I'knty ol nmU edcry,
nnd « variety of plant*, won- (iin m many plana,
the utility of which to iVanun in a Iomc vii)aj'c u w..l
known. Wc ntuinnl in the cvtnmn to the lliips
which wc fnuml at anchor in S.imly H.iv, m lol.uhon »
water, ami at the .lillance of about halt a inilc liniu
the fhorr. During our ahlincr, fonic ol our nan
were employed in hauling the feme, ami in thiee luuirt
had cuuRht a great quantity of (id), of an txtrnonlinary
fi7,ci among which were (ixty large nuilkt*. A IIkkk-
inK party had good fports lor the place abounds with
Beelc, teal, fnipcM. and other birdi. Thm txcdkiit
food was, cfpecially at thii time, very acceptable, lor
the keen air of this place had made our people lo hun-
crv, that they could have eaten three times their al-
lowance. By a good obfcrvation we found our latitude
to be 53 dec. 10 iiiin. S.
On 1'uefday the 25th, being Chriftmas-day, we
weirhi-d at eight o'cloik, A. M. and with little wind,
ftceild S. by K. along-lidj of theftiorc between two ami
three t iilei, hut had no founding with a line ot 40 la-
thanis. Kvcrv thing here was in the griateH perfec-
tion, \ itii n-lpeilt to the appearance ot the trees, and
the vmiuic ot the lands, whii h in ditVercni [)la( ts
aflord a u\o\\ enchanting prnl'pcftj and many parts
of the ll.ort have paflure for ilieep or cows, winch in
fuch Icnij; voyages arc generally on board. At this
lime rf the year, the fun is 1 7 hours above the horizon,
thcIV- .il.\mis bein;'liiiiattd neaily at the famediltamc
(Vi)iu liic equator, a^ the middle part of Crieat Britain,
only one to the fouth, and the other to the north. In
failing towarils the South Folc. the fame alteration is
found'as in Ihcring towards the north, till >ou run
between do and 70 degrees, when the weflcrly winds
generallv prevailing in the fouthcrn ocean, and blowing
\ -ry furioufly in the months of April, May, June, July.
Augull, and September, there is no probability of fail
ing round the cape in thcfe months, for which reafon
Ihips feldoin attempt it, unlefs in the proper fcafon.
At three P. M. we caft anchor in 18 fathoms water,
Sandy Point bearing N N. W. three leagues, and the
fouth point of Frelh Water Bay, S. E. half E. two
miles. The tide here runs very (low, but rifes confider-
ably by the (horc, where we obfervcd it to flow 1 6 feet.
The land here is diverfified with woods, and abounds
■with water: in fome places it rifes very high, and is
covered with perpetual fnow. On the 26th we
weighed, ami fteered S. S. E. for Port Famine. The
northernmort point, called St. Anne's, at noon, bore
S. by E. half E. diftant three leagues. A reef of rocks
funs out from this ]■ nt S. E. by E. about two miles;
and the water wi.i fuddenly fhoal from 60 to 20
fathoms, at the ditlancc of two cables length from
the reef. The point itlelf is very fteep, and care mull
be taken in (landing into Port Famine, for the water
fhoal< very fuddenly, and at more than a mile from the
Ihore there is but nine feet water, whci} the tide is out.
Soundings will loon be got by hauling clofc round St.
Anne's Point -, but when there is no more than feven
fathoms, it will not be fafe to go farther in.
On Thurfday the 27th, wc anchored at noon in Port
Famine. Our fituation was extremely eligible, for we
were fhcltered from all winds, except the S. ii. which
feldom blows, and was a fhip to be (".t' ven on fliore in the
bottom of the bay, the could not rfcei\»" any damage, for
it is all fine foft ground. In this harbour may be
found a coniiderable quantity of excellent wood, either
green or dry, the latter lying along the fliore on both
lides the flraits, which arc alinou covered with the
trees that have been blown down fVom the banks, and
drifted by the high winds. Thcfe trees are fomcwhat
like our birch, but arc of fo confidcrabie a fize, that the
thinks of fome of them are two feet and a half in di-
ameter, and 60 feet in length. Marly of thcfe were
cut down for our carpenter's ufe, who found, that when
properly dried, they were very fcrviceabic, though not
No, 27.
lit tor itiall«. A* to ilril't wood, there i> a quantity
fuHii iint to have t'urnillicd A thoul.iml fail.
Port laiiiine obtained it.t name lioiii a party of
Si)aniariU, who had plantci) a colony on the tlicirc i but
tor waiuofn regular limply of provilions, were ll.iivrd
to death. There are Itill fome rcin.niis of biiiklii';.M,
tliough they arc now alinoll lovircil with earth. Ui-
law them on a hill, that hai been i Icarcd of woikI, and
which i< not far t'lomwiure our lliip'> lay. The river
Sjilgcr tlifchargcs itillf into the bay. This river ii
about half a ealile length broad at ih.' intram e, ami i <
jiill navigable liir boats. In going into it wc im t with
two lilts. o;ic on the ll.ub.ind-liJi', anil the nthcr on
the larboard, which we ilileoverctl at halUbbi tlud-
render it fomewhat ililiiciilt to go iip the nvcr, exiept
after halt' flood, when it may be nivi|Mied withgre.it
pleafure and cafe, b;, keeping in the niidill/ of the
channel. About twomiUs up the river it is not above
■JO yards over, at which place »e found on our righ',
a line gravelly Ihep beach, fo tint the boats had
the convenience of coming along-tiile of it. in ou)( r
to receive the water in calks, ulii(liv\e found to hi.'
excellent. The Commodore, w iih a party, went up the
river four miles, but could proieed no faitlur. the
trees which had tallen ai ro(s the llnain imptdirg
the boat's way ; one of the Humps of tJKni bavin;; made
a hole in her bottom, llie wai Immediati!)' till d with
water J but, with dillicultv iluv liaiiled lior on Hon-,
and contrived to flop the the leak, lo that they iiuule a
Ihift to return in her to the lliip. 'I'his river ha.^ per-
haps as beautiful an appcaiaiice as it is polljblc f'oi the
moll luxuriant lam y to coi'.ceive. Its a^jrecahlc wiiul-
ini;s arc vaiious ; and on each (ide is a line grovi; ot
(lately trees, whofe lofty heads jut over the river; ai.d
lorm a plcafant thade. .Some of them aic of a >;rea'
height, and more than eight feet in diameier, whieh is
proportionably more than eight yaids in Lircumference ;
fo that foui^men joining hamls could not compa's
them ; among others, we law the pepp«r-tree, or
winter's-bark, in great plenty. To coiiij)lcte this de-
lightful fpot, the wild notes of dill'ercnt kind ot birds
are heard on all tides, and the aromatic fmel! of the
various forts of flowers which adorn its banks, feem to
unite in gratifying the fenicsof the inchanted (I ranger.
The flowers with which in many places the ground is
covered, are not inferior to thi fe that are commonly
found in our gardens, either in bfauty or fragrance.
Such arc the charms which nature has laviflicd on a
fpot, where the Indians alone can behold its beautici;
while they arc pro'-sably infenfible of thole attrading
fcenes, which perfonsof the moll improved tafle might
contemplate with no fmall pleafure ; and were it not
for the fevcrity of the cold in winter, this country, by
cultivation, might be made the finell in the world.
The leaves of the trees, the dimenlions of whole trunks
wc have already noticed, refemble thofe of our bay-trees.
The rind is grey on the outfide and pretty thick. Thin
is the true winter's bark, animc which it obtained from
its being brought in the year 1567, from the Straits of
Magellan, by Mr. William Winter. This bark, on
being taken off the tree and died, turns to the colour
of chocolate. It has an acrid, burning, pungent tatlc,
and is cftcemcd an excellent remedy againll the llurvy.
It is, however, extremely fragrant, and the tree, when
ftanding, has a ftrong aromatic fmell. Wc frequent-
ly made ufe of the bark on board our fliip in pies, in-
Itead of pepper, and being flceped in water it gives a
very agreeable flavour. 1 htfe trees are likcwife found
in the woods, in many other places in the ftraits, and
alfo on the call and w efl: coafts of Patagonia. 1 he land
in the woods, in fome places, coniifls of gravel, in
others of fand, and in others of good brown earth ; bur
old fallen trees and underwood obftrud the palTage
through them. Thefc woods near the Ihore, extend
up the fides of very high hills, but the mountains
further within land rife much higher, and their barren
rugged fummits covered with fnow, arc feen peeping
over the hills next the ftiorc. Indeed, the land on each
fide the ftiore rifes to a great height, particularly en
,the ifland of Terra del Fuego, on the fouth-flde of the
3 ^ ftraits.
m
11
226
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD C o m p l i. i
I
-ftraits, where there arc high barren rocks covered with
cverlafting fnow. Thcfc hav^ ii black dreary afpcift,
and iiiuft have a confidcrablc inHuence on the air,
w hich ihify render cold and iTlotd. This evidently ap-
peared even while wc were there, though this was
their niidfummer, when every thing muft nalturaliy be
in the highcfl perfedlion. But notwithdanding the
weatlKT, when the fun (hone out, was very wann, yet
it was unfettled, and wc had frequently heavy rain
and thick focks. In the woods arc innumerable par-
rots, artd other birds of the mod beautiful plumage.
W'c fhot every day gcefe and CiUcks enough to fcrve
the Commodore's table, and that of feveral others:
we had, indeed, plenty of frefli provifions of all kinds,
particularly fifh, of which wc caught fuch numbers as
lupplicd our men three times a week. Wc muft not
omit here, that we faw many Indian huts, built with
fmall branches of trees, and covered with leaves and
mud, but we never met with a (inglc inhabitant. The
country between this and Cape Forward, which is dif^-
tant about three leagues, is exceeding line : the foil ap-
pears to be very rich, and there arc no Icfs than three
pretty large rivers, bclides many brooks. While we
continued in this port, the Commodore and a party
went one day to Cape Forward. Upon fetting out we
intended to have gone farther ; but the rain having fell
very heavy, we were glad to flop at the Cape, and make
a good fire to dry our clothes. The Indians had de-
parted fo lately from this place, that the wood, which
lay half burnt, was ftill warm. Soon after our fire was
kindled, we perceived another on the Terra del Fucgo
fliore, a lignal, probably, which we did not undcrllaiid.
The rain having abated, we walked over the cape, and
found the ftrait to run about W. N. W. The hills at
far as wc could fee, were of an immenfe height, very
craggy, and covered with fnow from the very bafe up-
wards. The Commodore having ordered a tent to be
ere(5ted on tiie borders of a wood, and near a rivulet,
three feamen were ftationed there to walh linen, and
they lay in the tent. One evening, foon after they had
retired to reft, they were awakened by the deep and
hollow roarings of fome wild beafts, which approached
nearer every mometit. Terrified with apprehenfions
of being devoured, they made and kept up a blazing
fire, round which the beafts walked at a fmall diU
tancc till dawn of day, when they retired. Wc did
not credit this ftory, for the relators could not tell us
what kind of beafts they faw, only they were very large;
yet it muft be acknowledged, that, at different times,
when on fliore, we tracked many wild beafts in the
fand, but never faw one. And as wc were returning
through the woods, we found two very large fkulls,
which, by the tetth, appeared to have belonged to
fome beafts of prey, but of w hat kind we could not
guefs.
CHAP.
II.
!-l
The Dolphin and Tamar fleer back from Port Fumiinc iti /eanl- ./ Falkland's Ijhnds — Airiir at Port Egtnont — 01-
/(Tiiitions en this port and the adjacent country — Ran jrom Falkland's Ijlands to Pert Dcjire, r.iid ihrougb the Straits of
Mai^ellan as far as Cape Monday — The Florida florefbip happily difcovered — Aftraiigefail makes her appearance, and
fhllkvs the Dolphin, u-bich proved to ie the F.agle, commanded ly M. BongainvilU' — A defrtptiontf difjercnt parts of
the Straits — Paffage from Cape Monday into the Sontb Sea — Tbe Dolphin in a cynical filiation — Ohfervations on
'Tiiifda\ Bay— Enters the Pacific Ocean — And touches at Mafa-Fuero — Olfervations on this Ijland.
^ WJ^ began this New-year in Port
A. D. 17^5. yY pamine, where wc enjoyed every
blclllrig, which after fo long a voyage we had reafonto
cxped. Wc had fifti, wood, and water, in abundance :
both our fliip and the Tamar were in good condition,
and the fuccefs of our voyage, with the continued
kindncfs of our Commodore, kept our men in high
fpirits. Having compleated the wood and water of
bothfliips, and provided every neceflary that was wanted,
on Friday the 4th of January, we weighed, and fet
fail from Port Famine, ftanding over to the Ifland of
Terra del Fuego, where wc faw great quantities of
finoke fifing from different quarters, which we lup-
pofcd to be raifed by various parties of Indians. The
intention of the Commodore was now to ftccr back
again in fcarch of Falkland's Iffands. With this view
on the £th, we held on our courfc N. W. by N. four
leagues, and then three leagues north, between Eliza-
beth and Bartholomew Iflands, after which we fteered
N. E. half E. from the fecond narrow to the firft, be-
ing a run of eight leagues. We proceeded through
the firft narrow againft the flood -, but the tide of flood
fetting ftrong to fouthward, drove the fliip dircdly
towards the fouth ftiorc, which might have proved of
faul confequence to the fliip; for as we were under
a very high rocky cliflT in 50 fathoms water, if there
had hi ipcncd a fudden fquall of wind, wc muft have
been inevitably loft : however, the flood fet us back
again into the entrance of the firft narrow, and we caft
anchor in 40 fathom, within two cables length of the
ftiore. On the 6th, at one o'clock, A. M. we weighed,
and had a pleafant northerly breeze with the tibe ofcbb ;
but this breeze pjon abating, the tide fet the fliip to the
N. W. and at five flic took the groilnd on a fand
bank of 15 feet, which reduced us to no fmall ex-
tremity ; but providentially, in about half an hour,
ftie fwung by the force of the tide into deeper water.
This ftioal, not mentioned by any former navigators,
is very dangerous, as it lies diredly in the track be
tween Cape Virgin Mary and the firft narrow, and juft
in the middle bcwccn the nonh and fouth n.orcsi
It is more than two leagues long, equally broad, and
in many places very ftccp ; fo that fliouitl a ft.ip ground
upon it in a hard gale of wind, llie would probably
foon be beat to pieces. When w c were upon this bank.
Point PoircfTien bore N. E. diftant three leagues, and
the entrance of the narrow S. VV^ diftant two leagues.
About fix o'clock, A. M. we anchored, and at noon
worked with the ebb tide lill two, but finding the
water ftioal, we came again to anchor, about half a
mile from the fouth-ftde of the bank : at which time
the Aflcs Fjirs bore N. W. by W. diftant fourlcagues;
On the 7th, about eight o'clock, A. M. we weighed
and fteered about halt a mile S. E. by E. \\'e now
got our boats out, and towed the fliip into the dcepcft
water in the fouth channel s by which means wc an-
chored in 14 fathoms, the tide of flood making ftrong
againft us ; and then being for the diftance of iialf a
mile round us cncompailbd with ftioals, that had only
eight feet water, we fent our boat to found, in order la
find a channel ; and after being difappointcd more
than once, we at length weighed for thelaft time, and
left the coaft.
On Tuefday the 8th, by obfcrvatlon we found our-
felves in latitude 51 dcg. 50 min. We now brought
to for the Tamar, who had come through the north
channel, and was fome leagues aftcrn of us. This day
we had ftrong gales from the weftward : and in the
forenoon a moft violent fquall of wind which fprung
our main-maft, but effedual methods were taken im-
mediately by our carpenter to fecure it. On the 9th,
wc were in latitude 52 deg. 8 min. S. and in 68deg.
31 min. W. longitude, at which time Cape Virgin
Mary bore S. 83 deg. W. diftant 33 leagues. On
the 1 0th, our courfe was N. 18 W. for 13 leagues 1
•nd Qur latitude 51 deg. 31 rain. S. longitude 68 deg.
44 min.
Commodore BYRON's VOYAGE— for makihg Difcovcries in the Southern OceAn,&c. ^27
ve could not
44 mill. VV. On the iith, our courfc wasN. 87 E.
for J3 leagues. Cape Virgin Mary bore S, 73 dc^i
8 mill. W. and Cape Fairweather W. 2 dcg. S. Thi.s
day we had llrong gales at S. W. accompanied with a
great fca. In the evening we cfpicd land, but our
tonfort being fome leagues aftern, we wore Ihip, and
made an caly fail off. On the 1 2th, at day break, we
Hood in again, and at four o'clocic recovered fight of
the land a-head, which was taken for Dc Wcrti Iflands,
and at the fame time wc faw other land to the fouth,
which appeared to be a conlidcrable nun\bcr of iflands
near each other, fome of them fceming very low, and
almoii even with the furfacc of the water, and which
we judged to be what are called in the charts New
Iflands. Intending to ftand in between thefe, wc found
the land which appeared to be unconnedcd, was joined
by fome low ground, and formed a deep bay. When
hauling out of this wc difcovered a long low reef of
rocks, ftretching out for more than a league to the
northward of us, and another between that, and what
wc had taken for the northermoft of De Wcrts Iflands.
This land confifts chiefly of mountainous and barren
rocks, except the low part, which is not fecn till you
approach near it, and the whole has very much the ap-
pearance of Staten Land. Birds and feais abound here,
and wi; faw large whales fpouting roun 1 the Ihip.
When wc were near enough to dilcern the low land,
wc found ourfelves wholly embayed, anJ had it blown
hard at S. W. fo high a fca mult have rolled in, as
would have made it impofTiblc to keep c!:;ir of the
ftiore ; wc mention thefe particulars, that all fliips may
hereafter avoid falling into this bay. At noon we
obfervcd in latitude 51 deg. 27 min. S. and in 6j dcg.
54 min. W. longitude.
On Sunday the 13th of January, at day-break, we
flood in for the north part of the ilbnd by the
coaft of which wc had been embayed. Being about a
knguc to the eallward, it fell calm, and poured down
toiVtnts of rain, after which a moll uncomnjon fwell
cimc from the wcftward, and ran fo high, and with
fuch velocity, that we expedted every moment it would
let us very faft towards the (horc, as dangerous as any
in the world, and we could fee the furge breaking at
Ibme diftance from it mountains high ; very fortunately
for us a frefli gale fprung up at S. E. with which, to
our great joy, wc were able to ftand off, and we would
advife every one, who may hereafter come this way, to
give the ncrth part of this ifland a gcxxl birth. We
now brought to in latitude ft dcg. S. and in 6;{ dcg.
22 min. VV. longitude.
Monday the 1 4th, we difcovered a flat ifland covered
^ith^ufts of grafs as large as bufties. We continued
our courfe along the ftiore fix leagues farther, and then
faw a low rocky ifland, bearing S. E. by E. and diftant
about three leagues from the land wc were coafting,
which here forms a very deep bay, and bears E. by N.
of the other ifland on which had been feen the long
tufrs of grafs. During the night wc ftood off and on,
and on the 1 5th, at three o'clock, A. M. we ftood in
tx)wards the land, and hoiftcd out our boats to found.
Thefe were gone till noon, when they returned with
the agreeable news of having found a fine convenient
(v.u , entirely fecurc from the fiiry of the winds, with its
c ifland, not before
known, lyinp to the well ward of us: it was not inhabited,
and 1 gave it the name of Pcpys's Ifland. Wc found'
it a very commodious place for fliips to water at, and
t.ikc In wood, and it has a very good harbour, where a
tho.iland fail of Ihips mayfafcly ride. Here is great
plenty of fowls, and, we judge, abundance of fifti, by
reafon of the grounds being nothing but rocks and
fands." To this account there is annexed a reprefen-
tation of Pcpys's Illand, in which names arc given to
fcveral points and head lands, and the harbour is called
Admiralty Bay ; yet it appears that Cowley had only a
diflant viewof it, tor ht immediately adds, " rhe wind
being fo extraordinary high that we could not get into
it to water, we flood to the fouthuard, fliapin;; our
courfeS.S. W. till we came into the latitude of 53 dcf;."
and though he fays, that •• it was commodious to take
in wooil," and it is known that there is no wood on Falk-
land's Iflands, Pepys's Ifland and Falkland's Illand
may, notwithllanding, be the fame; for upon I'alkland's
Iflandsthere are immenfe quantities of flags with narrow
leaves, reeds, and ruflies, which grow in clulU-rs, fo a.'*
to form buflics about three feet high, and then ihwz
about fix or feven feet higher: thefe at a dillance have
greatly the appearance of wood, and were taken tor
wood by the French who landed there in the year i76.f,
as appears by Pernetty's account of their voyage. It
has been fuggefted, that the latitude of Pep)s's Illand
might, in the manufcript from which the account ot
Cowley's voyage was printed, be rxprcflcd in ligures,
which if ill made, might equ.illy rcl'emblc 47 and 5 1 ;
and therefore as there is no ifland ir thcfc (l-as in lati-
tude 47, and as Falkland's Iflands he nearly in 51, that
51 might reafonably beconcludcdtobeth nun.bcr tcr
which the figures were intended to fland : rccourfe
therefore was had to the Britifh Mufcum, and a manu-
fcript journal of Cowley's was there found. In this
manufcript no mention is made of an illand not hetbri;
known, to which he gave the name of Pe{)ys's Illand,
but land is meniioned in latitude 47 deg. joiiiiii. ex-
prefl'ed in words at length, which exactly anfwers to
the dcfcription of what is called Pepys's Ifland in the
printed account, and which here, he fays, he fiippofed
to be the Iflands of Sebald de Wert. 1 his part of the
manufcript is in the following words : " January 1683,
This month wee were in the latitude of .^.7 deg. and
40 min. where weeefpied an ifland bearing weft from us,
wee having the wind at N. E. wee bore away for it, it
being too late for us to goeonflioare, wee lay by all night.
The ifland fecmed very pleafant to the eye, with many
woods. I may as well lay, the whole land was woods.
There being a rock lying above water to the eafl ward
of it, where were an innumerable company of fowles,
being of the bigneile of a fmall goofe, v hich fow les
would ftrike at our men as they were aloft : fome of
them wee killed and eat : they feemcd to us very good,
only tailed fomewhat fifhiy. 1 iailed along that iilancl
to the fouthward, and about the S. W. fide of the ifland
there feem;d to me to bea good place for fliipps to ride;
I would have had the boat out to have gone into the
harbour, but the wind blew frcfli, and they would not
agree to go with it. Sailing a little further, keeping
the lead, and having 26 and 27 fathoms water, until
wee came to a place, where wee faw the weeds ride,having
the lead againe found but feavcn fathoms water. Fear-
ing danger went about the fliipp there, were then feare-
full to flay by the land any longer, it being all rocky
ground, but the harbour feemed to be a good place for
fliipps to ride there; in the ifland fceming likcwife to
have water enough; there feemed to me to be harbour
for 5CK) faile of (hipps. The going in but narrow, and
the north-fide of the entrance fliallow water that I could
fee, but I verily believe that there is water enough tor
for any ftiipp to goe in on the fouth-fidc, for there can-
not be fo great a lack of water, but mult needs fcow re
a channell away at the cbbe deepe enough for fliipping
to goe in. I would have had them flood upon a
wind all night, but they told me thc-y were not come
out to go upon difcovcry. Wee faw likcwife another
ifland by this that night, which made me thipk them
the Sibblc D'wards. The fame night wc fleered our
courfe againe W. S. W. which was out our S. W. the
conipafle having two and twenty degrees variation cafler-
ly. Keeping that courfe till wc came in the latitude of
three and fifty degrees."
In both the printed and manufcript account,
this land is faid to lie in latitude forty-lcvcn, to Ic
I liicatcd
Commodore BYRON's VOYAGE — for making Difcoverics in the Southern Ocean, &c. 229
f.
fituated to the woftward of the Ihip when firll difco-
vered, to appear woody, to have an harbour where a
rreat number of (hipi might ride in fafcty, and to be
.'rcqucnted by innumerable birda. It appears alio by
both accounts, that the weather prevented his going
on ftiore, and that he fteered from it weft-fouth-weft,
till he came into latitude fifty -three: there can there-
fore be 4ittlc doubt but that Cowley gave the name of
Prpys's ifland after he came home, to what he really
fuppofcd to be the iiland of Sebald de Wert, for which
it IS not difficult to aflign feveral rcafons; and th-.ugh
the fuppofition of a miftake of the figures does not
appear to be well grounded, yet, there being no land
in forty.feven. the evidence that what Cowley faw was
Falkland's idands, is very llrong. The defcription of
the country agrees in almoft every particular, and even
the map is of the fame general figure, with a llrait
running up the middle. The two principal illands have
been probably called Falkland's iflands by Strong,
about the year 1689, as he is known to have given the
name of Falkland's found to part of the llrait which
divides them. The journal of this navigator is ftiU
unprinted in the Britifti Mufeum. The firll who faw
thcfe iflands is fuppofcd to be Captain Davics, the af-
fpciatc of Cavcndifh ini692. In 1594, Sir Richard
Hawkins faw land, fuppofcd to be the fame, and in ho-
nour of his miftrefs. Queen Elizabeth, called them
Hawkins's Maiden Land. Long afterwards they were
feen by fome French fhipsfrom St. Maloes, and Fre-
2icr, probably for that reafon, called them the Ma-
louins, a name which has been fince adopted by the
Spaniards." So much for the difpute concerning the
difcovery of thefe celebrated iflands, which the Spa-
niards now enjoy unmolefted, while to England only
remains the empty honour of having dilcovered, ex-
plored, and given them a name.
Wc had now completed our watering, furveycd the
harbour of Port %mont, and provided every neccfTary
for our departure. This evening the fmith came on
board, he having been employed on fhore, in nuking
and repairing iron work for the ufc of the ihip. We
continued in the harbour till Sunday the 27th, when, at
eight o'clock, A. M. we left Port Egmont, and failed
with the wind at fouth-fouth-wcft. But we were
fcarccly out at fea, when it began to blow hard, and
the weather became fo extremely hazy, that we could
not fee the rocky iflands. We now moft heartily wiflied to
be fafe anchored in Egmont harbour; but, contrary to
our expedations, in a Ihort time the weather cleared up,
though it blew a hard gale all the day. At ten o'clock,
after having run along the (bore ealt, about five leagues,
we faw a remarkable nead-land, which was named Cape
Tamar. Five leagues farther we pafTed a rock, and
called it Ediftone. We now failed between this and
another head-land, to which was given the name of
Cape Dolphin, in the dircdion of eaft-north-eafl, five
leagues farther. The diftance from Cape Tamar to
Cape I>)lphin, is about eight leagues, and from its
having the appearance of a found, it was called Carltfle
Sound, though it is fince known to be the northern en-
trance of the ftrait between the two principal iflands.
Wc fteered from Cape Dolphin along the fliorceafl, half
north, to a low flat cape, or head-land, and then brought
to. During the courfe of this day, the land we faw was all
downs, having neither trees nor buflies, but large tufts of
grafs in various places. It may not be improper here to
take notice,that as in moft of the charts of Patagonia, an
ifland is defcribed by the name of Pepys's iiland, as
hath already been mentioned, where travellers have
alll-rted, that they have feen trees in abundance, and
many rills of water; but that after feveral attempts in
the latitude where it was faid to be difcovered, no ifland
nor any founding could be found ; in juftice to the
pretended difcovercrs of that and other imaginary
Illands, we here beg leave again to obferve, that they
probably had no intention to deceive, for on this coaft,
w lure you meet with frequent gales of wind, and thick
tofrgy weather, wc found th
take by opening to our view an unbounded profpedt. So
caflly does the mind of man, when fet on one particular
object, form to itfelf chimerical notions of its darling
purfuit, and when harralTed, as we will fuppofc, by the
diftrefTcs that frequently attend an entcrpnze of this na-
ture, make an imaginary L.'zovery of land, where no-
thing but a thick fog, and a vaft extent of fea, are to
be found.
On Monday the 28th, at four o'clock, A. M. wc made
fail, and fteered eaft-fouth-eaft, and fouth-fouth-eaft
to two low rocky iflands, about a mile from the main;
and to a deep found between thefc, we gave the name
of Berkley 's Sound. About four miles to the fouthward
of the fouth point of this found, the fea breaks very
high, on fome rocks that appear above water. The
coaft now wore a dangerous afped ; rocks and breakers
being at a conflderablc diftance from the fhore, and in
all dtredlioDS, and the country appeared barren and de-
folate, much refembling that part of Terra del Fucgo
which lies near Cape Horn. The fea rifing here very
high, we tacked and ftood to the northward, to prevent
our being driven on a lee Ihore. Having now run no
fcfs than feventy leagues of this ifland, we coiKluded,
it muft be of confiderable extent. Some former navi-
gators have made Falkland's iflands, to be about two
hundred miles in circumference, but in the opinion of
our Commodore, they are near 700 miles. At noon
we hauled the wind and ftood to the northward, the
entrance of Berkley's Sound bearing at three o'clock,
S. W. by W. fix leagues off; and in the evening we
ftood to the weftward, the wind having fliiftcd to the
S. W. On Tuefday, the 5th of February, at one o'clock
P. M. we again made the coaft of Patagonia, bearing
S. W. by S. fix leagues diftant. At two we pafTed by
Penguin Ifland; and at three ftanding towards the har-
bour of Port Defirc, which was two leagues diftant, wc
to our great fatisfadion, difcovered the Flora ftorefhip,
which had been fitted out at Deptford, and had on
board a great quantity of new baked bread, piicked in
new cafks, befides brandy, flour, beef, and all fuch ne-
ceflary provifions and ftorcs for the ufc of our two fhips.
This vefTel, whofe arrival was fo opportune for the pro-
fecution of our voyage, was difpatched by the lords of
the Admiralty, with as much fecrecy as the Dolphin,
with refpedl to the ignorance of the men on board as to
their place of deftination. When flie firft failed from
Deptford, fhe was fitted out for Florida ; nor did the
mafter know, till he arrived fouthward of the line, that
he was ordered to recruit the Commodore's vefTels. Wc
had for fome time paft been uneafy, concluding that
this fhip bad probably met with fome accident that had
obliged her to return: but her appearance agreeably rc^
moved all the anxiety we had felt from this groundlefs
conjcihirc; and indeed it was very happy for us, that
we fell in with her at this jundlure, whicli was the more
feafonablc, asforfometime wehad been reduced to a
fhort allowance of certain articles of provifions, which
fhe wasabletofupply us with; but had this not been
the cafe, a worfe confequence muft have enfued, namely^
that of being obliged to fleer to the Cape of Good Hope,
in order to purchafc provifions, and confcqucntly lofing
our voyage ; as by this delay it would be too late for us
to attempt a pafTage into the South Sea, either by paf-
fingthe ftraits of Magellan, or doubling Cape Horn;
confequently an end would be put to all our difcoverics,
and the expcnce of fitting us out be thrown away. At
four o'clock P. M. having anchored in Port Delire,
the mafter of the ftorefhip came on board the Dolphin,
bringing a packet from the lords of the Admiralty to
the Commodore. This perfbn was a midfhipman ii;
his Majefty's fiirvice, and was to have a commiflion as
ibon as he found the Commodore, He had been fe-
veral days infcarch of Pepys's Ifland; but was like us
obliged to defift, and having croffed the latitiide in
which it was fuppofcd to lie, had met with a ftorm thrt
had greatly damaged his nufls and fails. In the cvon-
3 M ^ ing
ff
til
ir
I- i
:.
'1
If
as©
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Compl
E T E.
!Wl
inethe maftcr of the Florida left the Dolphin, and by
oitlcr of the OBmmodore, our carpenters attended
him on board his own (hip, to repair the damages (he
had fulUincd. During our run from Falkland's iflands
10 Pbrt Dclirc, the number of whales about the Dol-
phin rendered our navigation dangerous. One blew
the water upon our quarter deck, and we were near
Rriking upon another ; they were of an uilconunon fize,
much Mrgcrthan any we had yet fcen.
On Thurfday the 7th, the night proved very tempef-
tuous; when both the Tamar and Florida made (ignals
of diftrefs, having been driven from their moorings
up the harbour. They were got clear of the fliorc with
K at difficulty, as they weretne next night, when they
h drove again. Finding the llorcmip was in con-
fbnt danger at being loft, tiw deiign of unloading her
in this haubour was given ufi, and the Omimodore dc-
fermincd to take her with him intto the ftnuit. Cast,
ftfouatof the Tanur having alio informed us, that his
nidder was fprung, it was fecund with iron cUmps in
the beft manner he could, there being no timber to
be found proper for nuking her a new one. Having
by the thirteenth completed the repairs of oar rcfpec>
tive fhips,.we made ready to leave this port, as by the
rapidity of the tide, the boatt could have little or no
communication with the ftore>lhip: ii ~ru therefore
refolved to fail back to the Eaftward, and take in our
ftores at one of the Potts we had before vifited. One
of our petty officers, well acquainted with the ftrait,
and four of our fcamen, were put on board the Flo.
rida, to aiTift in navigating her, and ihe was ordered to
make the bed oi' her way to Port Famine. On the 14th,
wc put to fea, and when, a few hours after, abrealt of
Penguin ifland, we got (ight of the ftorc-fliip a loni;
way to the eaftward. On Saturday the i6th, about fix
o'clock, A. M. Cape Fairweather bore W. S. W. diftant
Ave leagues; and on the 1 7th, we hauled in for the ftrait
(rf° Magellan, and kt fix o'clock A. M. Cape Viigin
Mary bore S. diftant fivie miles. On the 18th, wepa&d
the firft narrow. To our great rurprife, in the mom«
ingof thefecond day after we left Port Defire, w« dif-
covered a ftrange fail, which our Commodore appre-
hended might bea$p«nin) man of war of the line, who
was come to intercept u< t »nd in confcquence of that
furmife, boldly gave orders, that all on board the Dol-
phin and Tamar ftxNild prepare to give her a warm re.
ception, by firing all our guns, and then boarding her
from both (hips: but while we were bringing to and
waiting for her, it grew dark, and we loft fij^t of her,
till the next moi-ning, when we &w her at tuee leagues
diftance, and found (be ftili followed us, while wefuled
towards Point Ff mine. She even came to an anchor
when we did. We were now employed in getting up
our guns, having only four upon deck, which nad
been ufed for fignals, the reft having for a coafidenUe
time before lain in the hold. Wc foon however got
fourteen upon deck, and then came to an anchor, hav-
ing the Tamar »-ftern, with a fpring on our cablet and
that we might give her as warm a reception u poiGble^
we removed all our guns (9 one jiide.pointing to ne place
where the veflelmuftpafs. While we were thua Mifilj
employed in uking all the meafuret pnidcnce could
fuggeftto defend us from an imaginary danger, an ac.
(idcnt tlMt happened (o the ftore-fliip fliewnl that we
Ind nothii^ to fear. m4 that thtr vetlel againft which
we were arming ourilelves, ought not to be confidered
as an enemy t for >vhile the Florida was working 10
the windward, fhe took the (bore, en a brak about
two leagues from our lhip« About the fame time the
ftrange vefTel came up with hev, and feeing her difircfs
caft anchor ; and immediately bcsaa to hoift out her
boats to give her alTiftance: but betere they had reached
the ftore-ftup, our boats had boarded her, and the com*
mandingofiKer had received orders not toletthemcome
on boaroj but to thank them in the poiiteft manner for
their iMetided alTiffamce. Thefe oroen were punAu-
ally obcved, and with the aid of oor boau only, the
ftore-flup was foon after got into deep water. Chir
people repotted, that the French veflel was fiill Of
men, and feemed to have a great mwy ofSccts. At
3
fix o'clock in the evcnining, we worked through the
fccond narrow { and at ten palled the weft end <>f it.
We anchored at eleven off Elizabeth Wand, and th«
French (hip did the fame, in a bad iituation.fouthward
of St, Bartholomew's illand, whereby we were con-
vinced flie was not well acquainted WJth ihc chan-
nel-.
OnTuefdAy the 19th wc weighed, and at fix.p'clock,
A. M. we ftecred between Elizabeth and Bartholomew
Ifhmds, S. S. W. five miles, when we crofTcd a bank«
where amOng the weeds we had feven fathoms water.
This bank is fituated W. S, W. about five miles from
the middle of George's Ifland. To avoid danger, it
is n puft) through the ftrait before the feafon fhould be
too far advanced. At noon we were three leagues dif-
tant from St. Anne's Point, which bore N. W. thite or
fourmiles frrnn Point Shutup, which boreS. S. W. Point
Shutup bears from St. Anne's Point. S. half E. and they
are about four or five leagues afunder. Between thcle
two poina there is a flat-fboal, which runs from Port
Famine before the river Sedger, and three miles to th«
fouthward. At three o'clock, P. M. we pafTed tho
French fhip. which now anchored in a fmall cove.
She had hauled clofe (D.dw fhore. and we could fee
laige piles of wood cutdown. and iyiiK on each fide
of liert Upon our retu^ to England, we learnt this
Chip was the Eagle, commanded by M. Bougainville,
and that her buiineb in the ftrait was, as the Com-
thodore had comefhired. to cut wood for the French
bttlfment in Falklamf s Iflands. From Cape Shutup
to Cape Forward, the courfe is S. W. by S. diftanca
feven lei^es. At eight in the evening wc brought to.
Cape Forward bearing N. W. half W. diftant about
4 mile. This part of the ftrait is eight mUcs over, aod
off the cape wc had 40 fathom* within half a cables
length of the fhorc.
On the 26th, at four o'clock, A. M. wc made fail,
aod at ten we kept working to windward, looking out at
the fame time for an anchoring-place.and endeavouring
to reach a bav about two leagues to the weft ward of
Cape Forward. An officer was fent into this bay to
found, who finding itiit.for our purpofe we entered it,
and at fix o'clock, P. M. anchored in nine fathoms
watc^. On the 37th. at fix o'clock. A. M. we con-
tinued Wit courfe through the ftrait, from Cape Hoi.
land to Ci^ Gallant. This cape is very nigh and
Oeep, and pctween it and the former cape is a reach,
dirce lei^ics over, callcdEhglifli Reach. Five miles
IbiKh of Upe Gallant isOlarles's Ifland. of which it is
ncccflaxf to kttp to the noRhward . Wo fteertd along
the
ough the
lui Qf it.
and th«
buthward
vcre con-
he chan-
c.p'clock,
tholomcw
a bank^
tns water.
niIes:from
janger, it
I. ull the
i fouthcrn
the recti
rd of St.
(1 followed
'•lOandH
id, or that
in which
cd out our
ilito Pdrt
nin|[,«nd
the louth-
>rincipally
nore-lhip^
1 the 35th,
luch A«rcA
the Com*
icei he had
tb exprcfa
in^board-
r hrft cars
ito the fea.
tin, and ail
['atnar. ob-
thc Com
CO the crew
:o proceed-
to return ;
We now
, intending
I (hould be
leagues din>
W, thttc or
;.W. Point
£. and they
tween thcle
from Port
niles to th«
pafled th«
fmall cove>
e could fee
n each fide
; learnt this
ougninville,
; the Cora-
the French
ape Shutup
S. diltanca
brought to,
(Tant about
(s over, and
ilf a cables
made fail,
oking out at
ideavouring
weftward of
this bay to
: entered it,
inc fathoms
A. we con-
Capc Hoi.
y nigh and
ii s retch,
Five miles
r which it is
teenid along
the
^Mt^MJMkMnf^KSMsOr^Mf MrJEF/f^tE^SnwfcT. y.'fA Jk mymf ^ rJl^.
t'»*0t^ drf499
tyir .*rMfM>
CvMMODORi BYROlf'i VOYAGE— for making Difcovrries in the Sburif frn Oceaw, &c. a^i
the north Ihore. at the dUlance of about two miiei.
Ealtward of Cape Holland ii a fpacioiM fiindy bay,
called Wood'a Bay, in which there it good anchorage.
The mountaini on each fide the flrait are niorc de-
folate in appearance than any others in the world, ex-
cept perhaps the Cordeliers, both being rude, rraggy.
Deep, and coVcred from the bottom to their fummits
with fnow. From Cape Gallant to Paflhgc Point, dif.
Unt about three leagues, the coaft lies W. by N. by com-
pafs. Paflagc Point is the eaft point of Elizabeth's
Bay, and ia low land, off of which lies a rock. Be-
tween this and Cape Gallant are feveral iflands, foine
very fmall ; but the eaftcrmon, Charles's Ifland, is fix
miles long : the next is called Monmouth's Ifland, and
the weitcrmod, Kupcrtt Ifland : this lies S. by E. of
Point Paflage. ThcfegnMip of iflands make the (trait
narrow: between Port Tafliige and Rupert's Ifland, it
is not nwrc than two miles over, and it is advifcable
for navigators to go to the northward of them all, keep-
ing the north>lhore on board.
On Wednefday the 27th, at fix o'clock, P. M. we
ftood in for Elizabeth's Bay, and anchored in ten fa-
thoms, good ground. In this bay there is a good
rivulet of frelh water. On the 28th, wc met with ex-
ccflive gales from the W. N. W. which blew with fuch
violence, that we were driven three leagues to the eail-
ward, where wc cad anchor on the top of a rock, in
13 fathoms and a half water, a cable's length from the
bay : but loon after wc parted, or rather darted our
(trcam anchor, and fell oit' the rock : it was very dark,
and the Ihip dill kept driving with her whole cable
out, and was in the greatcll danger of being loft ; how-
ever, we let go both bowers in 1 7 fathoms water. The
wind fiill continued to blow very hard, and the (hip
was fo near the rocks, that the^ boats could but juit
keep clear of the furfott the Ihore: but that provi-
dencc which had hitherto attended us, ftill continued
to be our friend» and preferved us from impending
(heftruAion 1 for the next morning we hove in the cable
of our ftream<«Khor, both the nukes of which where
broke ; and being thus rendered ufelcfs, it was thrown
overboard. Wc now with our gib and fiay>fails ran
out into 10 fathemt, till vre were cxadlly in the fitua.
tion from whence we had been driven, where we an-
chored with our bcft bowtr.
On Friday the lA of March, at five o'clock, A. M. we
weighed,attended with light gales and moderate weather.
At (even paflicd Mufcle my, a league to the wed ward of
Elizabeth's, OB the feuthem ihore. At eight we were
two ieajptes W. bv H. of thia bay, and abrcaft of
Bachelor's River, wiick i» on kLe north flnre. A league
from hence lies the catnnce of St. Itrom'a Sound, which
we paflcd at nine. In our ctNUle aloiig.this coafi we
&w a finokc, Md bm after difcovcred a great number
of Indiana in dMchcd pucicf^ fome of whom, on feci: g
us, pat their CMQM into the water, and made towards
our (hip. When within mufltet Ihot, they began a
moft hideous flnuCinK. and we hallooed, and waved
our hands, u %nals rar tJaem tocome on board, which
after having frequently repeated, they did. On enter-
ing the fliip thejr furveyed it with no fmall figns of
aftoniihment, at if they had never feen a veflTcl of the
like kind before. Thefe Indians were in general of a
middling ftature, and of a very brown complexion,
with long black hair, that hung down to their (boulders.
Their holies were coverea with the (kin of fome ani-
mals unknown to us t but many of the poor wretches
had not a fufficient quantity to cover their nakedne(s.
Wc trafficked with them, or rather gave them abun-
dance of things, particularly cloaths, w-hich they feemed
to receive with thank(ulne(s: they were alfo exceeding
fond of the bifcuit, which we diftributed among them
pretty fitedy, though they appeared rather unwilUng to
iMft with any thing in return. Some of thefe people
bad bows and arrows, made of fuch hard wood, that it
fccmed almofl, impenetrable » the bowa were not only
exceeding tou^ and (i(Kxtth» but wrought with vci/
curious workmanfbip: and the ftring was fbraied of a
twifted gut. The arrows, whidi were about two feet
long, were pointed with flint fhapcd like a harpoon.
and cut with as great nicety, as if they had been
fhapcd by the mofl cxatt Lpidary 1 and at the other
end a leather was fixed to dinti its flight. They
have alfo javelins. Thefe Indians feem to be ver)* poor
and perfectly harmlefs, coming fiirth to their rdTpective
employments at the dau n of day. and when the (un fets,
retiring to their diHTcrcnt habitations. They live
aln',oft entirely on fifh, and partiailarly on limpets and
mufcles, the latter of which they have in great plenty,
and much larger than thofc wc met with in England.
Their boats are but indifferently put together ; they are
made chiefly of the bark of trees, and arc jufl big
enough to hold one family ; when they land, being very
light, they haul them upon fhore, out of the reach of the
tide, and fcem very careful in prefcrving them. In the
firudturc of fome of thefe boau no fmall degree of in*
genuity is evident. They ire formed of three pieces,
one at the bottom, which ferves for the keel and part
of the (ides, and is fa(hioned both within and without
by means of fire; upon this arc placed twoupper pieces,
one on each fide, which are fewed together, and to the
bottom part, like a fcem fewed with a needle and thread*
All their boats in general are very narrow, and each end
formed alike, both (harp, and rifing up a confiderable
height. I'hefe Indians are very dexterous in flriking
the fifh from their canoes with theirjavelins, though they
lie fome feet under water. In thefe infhmces, they feem
to (hew the utmofl extent of their ingenuity ; for we
found them incapable of underflanding things the mofl
obvious to their fenfes. On their firff coming abmrd,
among the trinkets wc gave them were fome knives and
fciffars, and we tried to make them fenfible of their ufci
but after our repeated endeavours, by (hewing the man-
ner of ufing them, they continued as infenfible as at
firfi, and could not learn to diftinguifli the blades from
the handles. There are plenty of feals in this part of
the fltaits. but we did not meet with many fowl, owing
doubtlcfi to tiie intenfe cold, nor did we find the
woods infelted with any kind of wild beifts. On faiU
ing to the weftward we found an irregular tide, which
fonietimes ran 1 8 hours to the eafiwanl, and but fix to
the weftv«ard ; at other times, when the wefterly winds
blew with any degree offtrength, it would conftantly
run for feveral days to the ealt. At intervals we had
hard gales of wind, and prodigious fquslls from the high
mountains, whofe fummits are covered with fnow. Tl.e
(traits are here four leagues over, and it is difficult to
get any anchorage, on account of the uncvennefs, and
irregularity of the bottom, which in feveral places clofe
to the fhore has from ao to 15 fathoms water, and in
other paru no ground is to be found with a line of 159
'athoms. Wc now fleered W, S. W. for Cape Quod.
Between this and Elizabeth's Bay is a reach about four
miles over, called Crooked Reach. In the evening of
the 4th, we anchored abreafl of Bachelor's River, ia
14 fathoms. The entrance of the river bore N. by E.
difiant one mile, and the northemmofl: point of St.
Jerom's Sound, W. N. W. diftant three miles. About
three quarters of a mile cafbvard of Bachelor's River
lies a (hoal, upon which there is not more than fix feet
water when the tide is out t it is diftant about half
a mile from the (horc, and may be known by the weeds
that are ujpon it. We here faw feveral Indians dif*
Sierfcd in ^fFe" •' ' crs, among whom we found a
amily whic> \ our attention. It was compofed
of a dccripid old man, his wife, two (bns and a daughter.
The latter appeared to have tolerable features, and an
Engii(h &ce, which they fccmed dcfirous of letting us
know; they making a long harangue, not a fyllable of
which we underftood, though we plainly perceived it
was in relation to the woman, whofc age did not exceed
thirty, by their pointing firit at her, and then at them-
felvec. Various were the conjofhires wc formed in regaid
to this circumftance. though we all agreed that rtieir
figns plainly fhewed that they offered herto us, as being
of the fame country. In one particubr they appeared
to be quite uncivilized, for when we came up to them,
they were tearing to pieces and devouring raw fifh. On
the 5th, we fent the boats a-head to tow, but could not
gain a bay on the north fliore, which appeared to be
an
; t
»M
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD C •!« n t t r. .t....j
I?
in excellent harbour, fit to receive five or fix fail) we
were therefore obliged to call anchor on a bank, with
the ftrcain anchor, Cape Qi>od bearing W, S. W. dif-
tant about fix miies. An oiliccr was now fetkc to look
out for a harbour, but he did not fuccecd.
On Wednefday the 6th, we itraored in a little bay
oppofitc Cape Quod ; khd the Tamar, which could not
work up fo fu, abuut fix miles to the eafiward of it.
This part of the ftmit is only four miles over, and its
afpcdl dreary and dcfolate beyond imagination, owing
to the prodigious mountains on each fide of it, which
rife above the clouds, and arc covered with perpetual
fnow.
On Thurfday the 7th, at eight o'clock we weighed,
and \v,orked with the tide. At noon, Cape Quod bore
E. by S. and Cape Monday, the wcdcrmoll land in
fight on the foutn fiiorc, W. by N. dillant ten leagues.
The tides here arc very llrong, and the ebb feu to the
wefiwand, with an irregularity for which it is vry
difficult to account. At one the Tamar anchored op-
pofite Cape Quod, in the bay wc had jud left ; and in
the evening we anchored in a fmall bay on the north
Ihorc, five leagues to the wcfiward of Cape Quod.
The marks to know this bay are two large rocks that
appear above water, and a low point, which makes the
calt part of the bay. The anchorage is between the
two rocks, the eafiennoft bearing N. E. halfE. difiant
about two cables length, and the wcilermod, which is
near the point. W. N. W. half W. at about the fame
dillance: there is alfo a fmall rock which (hows itfelf
among the weeds at low water, and bears E. half N.
dillant about two cables length. .Should there be more
Ihips than two, they may anchor farther out in deeper
water. We found in this part of the firait few birds
of any kind, and but a fmall quantity of mufcles along
the fiiore ; and though we fcnt out our boat into a bay
to haul the feinc, it returned without fuccefs, not any
filh being to be found. However, we frequently found
great quantiticw of red berries, fomewhat refembling
our cranberries, which being wholefome and refrefhing
proved of conliderable fcrvice to the fliip's company.
'I'hcy arc about the fize of an hazlc nut, and the chief
provifions of the Indians in thefc parts. On the 8th,
we found abundance of Ihcll-fifii, but faw no traces of
people. In the attcmoon, the Commodore went up. a
deep lagoon under a rock, at the head of which was a
fine fall of water, and on the eaft-fide of it feveral
fmall coves, calculated for the reception of (hips of the
grcatcll burthen. He returned with a boat load of
very large mufcles. On the 9th, we got under way, at
feven o'clock, A. M. and at eight faw the Tamar very
far aftern. We now ftood to tnc N. W. with a plea-
fant breoze at S. by E. but when abreaft of Cape Mon-
day Bay, :hc wind took us back, and continued from fix
o'clock to eight, at which time Cape Monday Bay
bore E. half N. fix leagaei. On the i oth, at fix o'-'lock,
A. M. Cape Upright bore E. by S. didant three leagues.
From Cape Monday to Cape Upright, which arc both
on the fouth (hore, and didant from each other about
five leagues, the courfe is W. by N. At ten a violent
ftormofwind came on, which was very near efTcdling
our dcftrudtion : for it was very 'Tlie.ncarclt
(hore was a low ifland between us and the cape, from
which ifland wc lay about half a cable's length. We
had at this place frequent (bowers of rain and hail,
with the air all the time exccfllvc (tiarp.
. On Saturday the i6th, at fix o'clock, A. M. wc un-
moored, and at eight a (Irong current fet m to the calf-
ward. In this perplexing fituation were \tc driven
aboiit from place to place, lofing perha|>H in a few
hours, what wc had been fix days and nights working
to the weftward I for when the wind continues with
violence there is no regular tide; but on the contrar)-, a
' confbmt weflcrly current running two miles an hour.
Perceiving wc lofl ground, we came to an anchor, but
finding the ground to be rocky wc weighed again ; and -
svery man on board the red of the day, and the whole
night, continued on deck, during which time the rain
poured down in unremitting torrents. Notwithdand-
ing this inccflant labour, on the 1 7tlT, we had the mor-
tification to find we had been lofing way on every
. t^ck, and at nine o'clock, A. M. we were glad to an-
chor in the vtry bay wc had left two days bc(bre. it
, continued to rain, and blow violently for two days
longer, fo that we began to think, without a fiivourabic
, wind.
CoMMoboRB BYRON'i VOYAGE — for making Dilcoverics in the Sou jiiekn Ocean, &c. 233
wind, it would be our ill Cortunl: to Tpcnd the winter
;|uartcr in one of thefe cdvet. The Commodore had
cm out t boat to found the bay on the north Iborc,
but no onchorage could be found. On the 3 1 It, we fee
fail, the wind veering from S. W. by W. to N. N. W.
we worked to windward with continual fquatln, which
at intervuU obliged ui to clue all our (ails. In the
incan while the Tamar, whom till this time wc had
iKver'loit iishtof, by a favourable breeze, got a few
leagues to tnc weftward, where (he lay two days in
Sood anchorage. Marrafled as wc were by continual
ifappointments, to add nill more to our vexation and
concern, we £uuiulour men were attacked by the fcur-
vey, wrhich had made its appearance on many of
Chemt however, by the alTldance of vegetables, and
th
vcrfion, defircd one of our midlhipmen to play on the
violin, while fome of the feamen danced. 1 he poor
Indians were extravagantly delighted; and one of them,
to teftify his gratitude, took to nis canoe, and fetching
fome red pamt, rubbed it all over the face of the
hiulician; nor could the Commodore, but with the
utmoil difficulty, cfcape the like compliment. When
they had been diverted fome hours, it was hinted to
ihcm, that they fhould go on fhore, which they at
length did, though with the utmofl rclu(fbincc.
On Sunday the 7th, at fix o'clock, A. M. we weighed,
and got under fail, with the wind at £. S. E. At this
fortunate change of weather joy appeared in every coun-
tenance, and never were people in higher fpirits. For
fix weeks we had been Mating to wmdward, having
been fcveral times driven back, and narrowly efcaped
the greatcft dangers : but we now flattered ouifelvcs,
tliat we fliould fhortly arrive in the Pacific Ocean, the
ultimate end of our withes j bufat eleven o'clock the
wind ceafed, and the current drove us two leagues, Cape
Upright bearing S. E. five leagues, on which we came
to with the dream anchor, in 1 10 fathoms water. At
fcur o'clock, P. M. the boat belonging to the Tamar,
which had, as wc mentioned, been fent out fome time
t^ibre. returned from the weftward, having been to the
fouthward of Cape Defiada, on the fouth fhore, and
^und many convenient places for anckorage ; but the
pieople in the boat were much fatigud by their long
and laborious rowing. On the 8in, at two o'clock,
A. M. wc fei fail, with the wind at W. by N. and at
eicven, came to an anchor in a very good bay, between
Gipc Upright, andQipe PiU«r. In this bay we found
plenty of excel! At filh not much unlike pur t4ils. wheh'fuir grown, are from 12 to 20 feet
id' length, and from 8 to 15 feet round. The head is
fAUll In proporlidn to the body, arid terminates in a
ftMUr* ' In each jaw they have a row of large pointed
teeth, two thirds of which are in fockets : but thi
tremities, and each toe is furnifhed with a nail. I'hey
are fo extremely fat, that on cutting through the (kin,
wlii'h is near an inch in thicknefs, there is at Icall a
foot of fat before you come to either lean or bones ;
.ind yet they are fo full of blood, that if deeply wounded
in 10 or I a places, there inllantly guflics out as many
fountains of blooil, fpouting to a conliderablediflance.
Their flcfli refcmblcs in tafle that of beef; and their fat,
on being melted, makes good oil. The males are of a
much larger lize than the females, and both of them
continue at fea all the Aimmer, and coming afliorc at
the beginning of winter, (lay there during that fcafon,
when they engender, and bring forth their young,
having commonly two at a birth, which they fuckie wiili
their milk. On (hore they feed on the verdure that
grows near the water: andfleep in herds, in the mo(\
miry places they can find, with fome of the males at a
liiHaiae, who arc Aire to alarm them, if any one ap-
proaches, fomctimes by fnorting like horfci, and at
ithtrs by grunting like hogs. The males have fre-
quently furious battles about their females.
This ifland is lU'ually called by the Spaniards, the
Lclfcr Jmn Fernandcs, it being about 22 leagues to
the W. by & of the ifland more frequently called by
that name : and is ternned Mafa-Fuero, from its being
at a greater diflancr from the continent. In his way
to this place, tii.- Commodore was not far from the fpot,
where' n« had endured the extremity of wrctchednefs
24 years before, when he was a midfliipmnn, under
Captain Cheap, on board the Wager, a frigate of
28 guns, one of the fquadron which was commandeJ
by Commodore Anfon, in his memorable expedition to
the South Se.i, and which was wrecked on the fliore of
an ifland on the coatt of Chiloe. In many rcfpcifb tliis
illand and that of Juaa Fcrnandes refemblc c.nch other :
the fliorc of both is deep, and for the mod part have
little frclh water; but no fpring was here found com-
y arable to that of the Watering place at the Greater
uan Fcrnandes: they are both mountainous, and
adorned with a variety of trees, which with the different
bearings of the hills, and the windings of the valley*
form, even from the fea, the mod rude, and at the fame! '
time the mod elegant profpeds. None of the trees of
the greater Juan Fernandcs are large enough for' any
confiderable timber, except the myrtle, the trunks of
fome of which arc of fuch a fize, as to be worked 40. feet
in length. But the goats of the greatei' Juan Fcr-
nandes are much fewer in number than at Mafa-Fuerb;
the Spaniards having placed no doga on the latter
ifland, in ofder to deftroy them. WitK refpciS to
the plenty of excellent filh, and the number of amphi-
bious animals, as feals and fea-lions, which line the
diores of both, they perfedly refemblc each other. In
Mafa-Fuero are many cafcades, or fine falls Qf water,
pouring down its fides into the fea. But our day here
was fo fllort, and wc were fo feldom on (hore, that we
had neither leifure nor opportunity to view this little
' illand, with the accuracy and precifion tHat might be
widied, and that was abfolutely nectlTary for taking a
full view of the delightful fpots which wc faw, with the
confufion that ncce^rily attends a didant profpedl.
I'he greated difadvantage belonging to this ifland is
that of not having fuch a commodious harbour, as the
I illand of Juan Fcrnandes.
While we were taking in water for the (hips, when-
: ever our meii found any great furf, they by order of th?
> Cotnmodorc, fwam to and from the boats in cork
.jackets ; for he would by no means admit of their going
into
".f'!
1 '
a. (6
Y A C; t S K O V N I) the W O R l. |) Co M r i »; i
into (he wttcr without putting thcni on, he bcinu fully
fcnttitle, that when properly ircurrtt on the boJjr, the
pcriiin who ufc* them cannot poltibly link, or Atlfcr any
cimlUlcrabIc inconvenience, it he itoei but lake care to
keep hi* head above the furfacc nf the watrr, which
ii caflly done. But thcfc jackets nllbrded no defence
■Kainii the lhark% which were oltrn viry near the
Tm ininirrs, and would dart even intothc very fiirlto fcizc
thmi : our oeoptc hoMcverprovidrntially tlVaped thon.
One (if theic voracious fill) feized a large fcal dole to
one of the vtatering boats, and devoured it in an in<
Pant : and the Conuiiodore law another do the fame,
clofc to the Hern of the Htip. Ihc following little
advcnture alfo took place while we lay otf this iDand.
The gunner and one of the fcamrn, who were with
others, on Iliorc for water, were left behind all night,
being afraid to venture in the boat, as the fea ran high.
I'hc commodore being informed of this circumilance.
Tent them word, that as blowing weather might be
rx|Kt!lcd,theniip might be driven from her moorings
in the nighti in whic-h cafe they would infallibly be left
behind. This meflogc being delivered, the gunner
fMain to the boati but the faiUir faying, he had rather
die a natural death than Ik dmwned, rcfufed to nvike
the attrin|K : and taking a melancholy farewell of his
companions, rcfolvcd to abide his fatei when jull as the
boat was going to put otV, u midfliipmaii tcMik the end
of a ro)K' in his Itand, and fAam on Ihorc, where he
rrmonftraied with the difconfolatc tar on the f(K)lilh
refiilutiiHi he had taken, till having an opportunity of
throwing ihc ro|>e, in which was a running knot, round
his bodv, he called to the buati crew to haul awny,
\«ho in/tantly dragged him through the furf into the
tM)at ', he had, however, fualloucd lt> much water thai
he appeaivd tt) be diad i but by holding him up by the
herii, he was fiMn recovered t and on the day follow-
ing was perfectly v«ell.
I laving taken in as much wood and water as the
wrnihrr Mould permit, the furf fomctimes fuelling in
fuch a innniirr, as to prevent our bouti coming near
the lliorc, we thought of leaving the ifland i but ncfoil-
our departure, in the evening of the igth, the Com-
modore removed Captain M()U.-it from tne I'anuir, ami
appointed him Captain of the Dolphin, all flag-oHicer*
having n commander under them. This nccafionrd
feveral other changes. Mr. Cumming, our Hrft lieu-
tenant, was appointed Camnin of the Tamar, and we
received in hi» room Mr. Caitcret, her firft lieutenant.
The CoiuiiHKlore alfo gave Mr. Kendal, on- nf the
niatri of the Dolphin, a k^ommidlon as fecond lieute-
nant of the Tamur. Aticr thcfc promotions, mt the
;{oth, wr weighed, and llcered along the K. and N. E.
fide of the ifland, but could find no anchoring place i
wc bore away therefore, with a Irefh breeze at b. F. and
at iHxin the ceuterof thi ifland was dil\ant eight leagues
in the direction of S. S. ]i.
CHAP. III.
tbf Dnlfi1n ive tff irrlaiu leaHti/ul IjhnJs,
ivhub tirf tiamrJ ihr Ijtaihls of Di/iiffoinlmeiit, btcMft iiofUns if Mihcriij^e could />»• fuiiiid — The iidlivvs of ibrfe
Ijliindi di-ftrihid — A'i>/f Ofor^f's Tjknds difiovncd — /tmlhtr f/liind is fecn, and ialUd iIm- I'riuce of ll\,\'i'i Ijhnd — 4
di/irip/ion of ih-ff ijlundi — Alfo a piirluuUir iiaouit/ oj ibe inbti/'itmih, and of feveral mculents tbal bjpfiiiid wbile tbt
jbips n-iTf (xploriiif^ ibchi — Tbf Ijliindof Dutif^tr poffed — Ibc DukcoJ }'ork IjJaiu' di/iovered — Aiiotbtr New ijlaiidJoi4nJ,
■u;bub rcceiws Ibt uatue of Bonn's Ijland — Tie ptifum and tebavkur ^' ibt Indians defcriLd.
ON the lirl^ of May, being Wcdncfday, we con
tinucd to fleer N. by W! but on the 2nd, at
noon, we altcro.1 ourt ourfc, and fleered due wefl, with
the view of faliinj:; in with an ifland, which is laid down
ill the charta b\ the name of Davis's Land, in latitude
a7deg. ,10 iiiin. S. but on Thurfday the 9th, the Com-
nindoie laid afidu his defign, being in latitude 36 deg.
46 min. S. and in 94 deg. 45 min. W. longitudci and,
having a great run to make, he determined to fleer a
N. \V\ courfe, till he Ihould fall in with a true trade
wind, and tnen tofearch for Solomon's Illands ; but the
dilcovcry of both thcfe fpots of land was refcrvcd for
a future navigator; fur the Commodore, in eroding the
fouthcrn ocean, inilTcd of the iflands, which have lince
been named the Society Ifles ; and about the fame dif-
tancc to the fouthward of the Marqucfas, difcovcrcd
by Mondana, a Spaniard, in the year i<97, and after-
wards explored by Captain Cook. Wc had hitherto
enjoyed a Continued (erics of fine weathers but the
nearer we approached the line, the crew began to
fall down witn the fcurvy very fafl, and everyday, to
the end of this month, brought with it an incrcafc of
that dreadful diforder. On the 10th, and following
day, wc law feveral dolphins and bonctcas round the
fliip,and obfervcd a few birds which had a (hort beak,
all their bodies being white, except the back, and the
upper part of their wings. On the 14th, in latitude
24 deg.' 30 min. S. and >n 97 deg. 45 min. W. longi-
tude, we faw more of thele birds, and feveral gram-
pufes, from whence imagining we mi^ht appro.ich
toward fomc land, we kept a gwd look out, but found
our expcdations difappointed.
On I'hurfday the 1 6th, two remarkable birds, as large
as gccfe, with wHitc bodies, and black legs, were o5-
firvcd flying very high, from whence it was conjcdurcd
that we hA paucd fome main-land, or iflands, to the
fouthward of us ; 'for the laH night w« obfervcd, thitt.
notwithflanding wc had a great fwcll from that quarter,
yet th^ water became quite finooth for a few hours,
aflcr which the fwetl returned. On Wcdncfday the
22nd, being in latitude 20 deg. 52 min. S. and in
II 5 deg. ;{8 min. W. the fwcllfrom the (buthward
was fo great, that we cxpoflcd every minute, to fee our
mafts roll over the Ihip's fide 1 to prevent which, and
to cafe the lliip, wc hauled more to the northward.
This day we caught, for the tirll time, two boncttas,
and were vifitcd by fomc tropic birds, larger than any
we had fecn before. Their whole plumage was white,
and they had in each of their tails two long feathers.
On Sunday the 26th, wc were in latitude 16 deg.
5 c min. S. and in 127 deg. 55 min. W. longitude,
when wc faw two large birds about the (hip, all black,
except their necks and beaks. The feathers of their
wings and tails were long, vet they flew very heavily.
We fuppofcd them, from tnis lafl circumflance, to be
a fpccies that did not fly far from the (horc. Wc had
imagined, that before wc had run fix degrees to the
northward of Mafa-Fuerd, we (hould have Ixcn favoured
with a fettled trade wind to the S. E. but the winds
flill continued to the north, though wc had a moun-
tainous fwcll from the S. W. On the aSth, two other
birds, one black and white, and the other brown and
white, would have fettled on the yards, but were in-
timid.-ited by the working of the (hip. On the 31(1^
our people b^g-an to fall ilown with the fcurvy very fafl,
which made us wilh for land. At length, after a paflage
of 31 days.
Friday the' 7th of June, atone o'clock, A.M.
the 1'amar made the (ignal of feeing land t en which
wc brought to till day light -, and in the mean time
flattered ourfelvcs with the pleaflng hopes uf gettiiig
fome kinds of refrclhmcnts, of which we Hood in
great need, efpccialiy for thofc who were fickt vsA
wc knew, that the UlanJ^ which are fltUftiMl wfthiit
twenty
CoMMODom BYRON •« VOYAGE— lor making I)i(iov<-icMn the So i iii '.n oTTTnTs^^T
twenty define* of ihc line, »rc Jreiiuently well lUirtil
with fruit of >ll kindi. S»n aftir «l«y.brcak. \»f ha^l
the plnrure of TcrinK ■ low finoll iflami coveinl wuli
beautiful treci. titul on ftilina to the leeward, wc wrro
regaled with the fmell of the lined fruitt. The wmr
wrctchea who were able to trawl upon deck. llooU
CMinff on thia little paradife. which howc.er nature
had ftirbidden them to enter, with fcnfutioiw which
cannot eaflly be conceived. They faw tocoa-nuti in
abundance, the milk of which ia (lerhapa the moll
powerful antifcorbutic In the world i and to intrcafe
their mortification, they faw the fliclli of many turtlci
fcaitered about the flwrc. Thefe refrelhmcnti, tor
want of which they were lan|;ui'ouchrafcd lb much as to touch,
but with great expedition hauled five or fix liise canoea,
which we faw on the beach, up into a woocT When
thia was done they waded into the water, '^nd (eemed
to watch for an opportunity of laying hukl of the boat,
that they might drag her on (liore.
On Saturday the 8ch, the boats having reported a
Iccond tinfK, that no anchoring ground could be found
Hbaut thia illand, we worked, at fuc o'clock, P. M,
II
uiiUr the lee of the oiher ifland, which lay to the
Mi'flviard of the farmer, ami fent cntt «mr cutter to
found lor a place to anchor in. We now ohl" rvnl
rcver.il other low illaiuU, or rather iKninlulm, tmoII of
them being joined one to the other l)v a neck ol laiul,
very n.irrow, and almoll level with tne ruil.iceor (lie
w.itcr, which breaks high over it. Il< iv, to our great
difappoinimeni, no relrelliments rotilil he piocuicd,
owing to the itucceirtble nature of the coall ; aivl wc
faw a much greater number of Indians fiirroiindiiig the
fliorr, who, with f|Kar.i o> cqu'il length, lollowid us
in Ilk manner, fcveral hundred* of thcin running alKiut
thecii.iil in great diforder; and at the fanie iiiiic wc
belicUl the illand covered with a prodigious ntinber
of cucoa-niit, plantain, and (amariiui tuts, ilavng
waited fome time with great impatience liir the rcriiin
of our cutter, we lired a gun, as a lignal lor our nun to
come on board, which terriblv alaimtd the Indians,
who feemed to conluli among thcmlc Ives m hut iiiealurcM
it would be moll prudent tc>r them to take. Tluy kept
abr.^all of the boats, n» they went fouiullng along the
fliorr, and ufeil many threatening gelUias, to lUter
them from landing. I'helr canons tiny dragged into
the wooils, and at ihc (ametimc the women came witli
great Hones in tlicir haiuls, to allKl the men tn pre-
venting, what they doubtlcfs tliou>.;lit to be, our hoililc
intcniions. 'i he cutter returned near ikmh, bi ingiiii;
much the fame account ot thi'- :>s ol tl-,c o'lur inaivf,
there being no I'uuiulings at a laMc's liiij.'ili 1 10m ihc-
fliore, wicit a line of 100 lathoms. This gave ux in-
exprclliblc concern, as we had now jo lii k on Imaid,
to whcmi the land air, the fruit and vincrahlrs, that ap-
peared lb bcaiititiil andatirai'.tive, wouhl have alfbrittd
immediate relief and returning heakh. Mtulln;.^ it i'n-
(wlfible to obtain thofc tempting rcfrcninRnts vliich
lung full in our view, we quitted, with longing eyes,
this p.iradife in appearance, to which the nam'; was
with propriety given of the Iflands of Difappoiiun.ent,
Continuing our courfeto thewellwaid, on the yih wc
faw land again, at the dillantc of liven leagues,
W. S. W. At feen o'clock, P. M. we b:ought to for
the night. In the morning of the loth, being «ithin
three miles of the Ihore, we found it to be a long low
ifland, with a white beach of a pic lant appearance,
covered with cocoa-nut and other tiers, and I'lrrounded
with a rock of red coral. Wc flood along the N. E.
fde, within half a mile of the ftiore, and the natives, on
feeing us, made great fires, and ran along the beach,
abreatlof the (hips in great numbers, armed like the
natives ofihciHands wchad laft vifitcd, and like iliem,
they appeared to be a robufl and fierce race of men.
Over the land we could difccrn a large lake ot falt-
watcr, which apjiearcd to be two or three leagues wiiie.
and to rc»ch within a fmall diflance of the oppolitc
fliore. Into this lake we obfervcd a liuall inlet, about a
league from the S. W. point, where is a little town
feated upder the (hade of a fine grove of cocoa-nut-
trcc*. The Commodore immediately fent oil" the
boats to found ; but they could find no anchorage, the
fliore being every where perpendicular as a wall, ex-
cept at the mouth of the inlet. Wc flood clofe in with
the ftiore, and faw hundreds of the natives ranged in
good order, and flanding up to their waifts in water:
they were all armed, like thofc we had fecii in the other
iflands, and one of them carried a piece of mat, faftened
to the top of a pole, which we imagined was an enlign.
They made a loud and incelfant noife j and in a little
time, many large canoes came down to the boats, but
with no friendly intentions, for we foon perceived their
main deflgn was to haul our boats on fliore. One of
theni went irito the Tamar's boat, and with the greatcft
adroitnefa fcized a feaman'sjacket.and jumping over-
board with it, never once appeared^ove water, till
he waa clofe in (hore among his com;>arion» : another
gotholdof amidfhipman's hat, but not knowing how
to take it olT, he pulled it downwards, inllead of lifting
it up J fo that the owner had time to prevent his
ttking it away. Our feamci} bore thefe infults with
much patience, as tiwif^ifions of the Omplc children
of nature.
i O Finding
i
,i
238
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Compiete.
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11
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It'!
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fn
[i^ •
111
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I''
I
Finding about noon, that there was no anchorage
here, we iteered along the (horc to the weftcrmoft point
of the ifland,and when we came to it wc faw another
ifland, bearing S. W. by W. at about four leagues dif-
uncc. We were now about one league b^ond the
inlet, where we had left the natives : but they were
not contented with our havins quietly left themt
for we now obferved two large double canoes failing
after the (hip, with about 30 men in each, all armed
after the manner of their country. The boats were a
good M ay to leeward of us ; and the canoes pafling be-
tween the (hip itti the Ihors, feemed to chace tliem
with great refolution. Upon this the Commodore
made a (ignal for the boats to fpeak with the cano^,
which they no fooner perceived, than they turned
towards the Indians, who being inlbintly feized with a
fudden panic, hauled down their laiis, and paddled away
at a furprizing rate. The boats, however, came up
with them; but notwithftanding the dreadful furf that
broke upon the fhore, the canoes pulhed through it,
and were inftantlv hauled upon the beach. Our boats
f> Ilowed them, when the natives, dreading an invafion
of their country, prepared to defend it with javelins,
clubs, and fioncs : upon feeing this our men fired, and
killed two or three of them ; one of whom who Rood
dofe to the boats, received three balls, which pofled
Suitethrough his body ; yet he afterwards tookupalaige
one, and died in the adion of throwing it. The
Indians carried off the reft of their dead, except this
one man, and made the beft of their way back to their
companions at the inlet. The boats then returned,
and brought off the two canoes they had purfued. One
of them was 33 feet long, and the other fonKwhat lets :
both were of a very curious conftrudlion, and mutt have
been fc.-med with prodigious labour. They confifted
of planks exceedingly wefl wrought, and in many places
adorned with carving ; thefc pbinks were fewcd together,
and over every feam there was a (lip of tortoifeflieli, very
ingenioufly Mened to keep out the weather. Their
bottoms were as fharp as a wedge ; and the boats being
very narrow, two of them were joined laterally together
by a couple of ftrong fpars, fo that there was a fpace of
about ctcht feet between them. A mad was hoided in
each, andafailwasfpread between themafts : this fail was
made of matting, and remarkable for the ncatneis of its
workmanftiip. Their paddles aUb are very curious, and
their cordage as good, and as well made as any in
England, though it appeared to be made only of the
outer covering of the cocoa-nut. When thefe veflcls
fail, feveral men fit on the fpors which hold the canoes
together. The furf which broke high upon the ihore,
rendering it impofTible to (nocurc refreflunents for the
fick, in this part of the ifland, we returned back to the
inlet, in order to try yhat more could be done there ;
but the boats being fent to found the inlet again, re-
turned, and confirmed their former account, that it
atlbrdcd no anchorage for a (hip. While the boats
were abfcnt, a great number of the natives were feen
upon the foot where we had left them in the momii^
who feentcd very bufy in kwdine and manning fome
canoes which lay clofe to the beach. The Commodore,
thinking they mi^t be troubieibme, and being unwiH*
ing to have recourfe to the fanguinary means v^tch had
before been ufed, fired a (hot over their heads, which
produced the intended effort, for they in(tantly dif-
d:d. Jufl before the clofe of the evening, our boats
cd.and brought 4>fr a few coco»-nuts, but (aw none
of the inhabitants.
On Tuefday the | ith, in the morning, the Com-
modore, with all the men who were ill of the fcurvy,
and capablcof doing it, went on fhore, where they con-
tinucd the whole day. ' The houl^ were totally defertcd,
except by the dpgs, who howled ineeflantly, from the
tiine we came on (hore, till we returned to theibip.
The wigwams were low mean (truAures, thatched wkh
the leaves of cocoa-nut tfees; but they were delight-
fully lituatcd in afmegroveof flately trees: maliy of
which were fuch as we were entirely unacquainted with.
The (horc was covered with eofal, «id (hells of very
r^/ge pearl oyllers, and the Commodore fttfnly bdlevca,'
2
that as profitable a pearl filhcry mlRht be cfiablifhcd here
as any in the world, in one of the huts was found the
carved head of a rudder, which had evidently belonged
to a Dutch long-boat. It was very old and worm-
eaten. A piece of hammered iron, a piece of bra(s, and
fome fmall iron-tools, were alfo found, all which had .
mod probably been obtained from the fame (liip to
which the boat belonged, llie inhabitants of thefe
iflands were not over-burdened with cloathing: the
men uy faw were naked, but the women had a piece of
cloth of fome kind hanging from the waifi as low as the
knee. The cocoa-nut tree feeins to furnifli them with
all the nece(raricsof life, particularly food, fails, cordage,
timber, and vefifelsto hold water. Clofe to their houfcs
we difcovered buildings of another kind, which ap-
peared to be bury ing-puccs. They were fituatcd under
lofty trees that gave a thick gloomy (hade : the (idc<
and tops were of ftone, and they fomewhat refembled
in their figure, the fquare tombs with a flat top in our
country church-yards. Near thefe buildings we found
many neat boxes, full of human bones; and>upon the
branches of the trees that (haded them, hung a great
number of heads and bones of turtles, and a variety of
other fifli, inclofed with a kind of bafliet-work of
reeds. We here faw no venomous creature ; but the
mufquetocs covered us from head to foot, and infefied
not^only the boat, but the fliip, bcii.g an intolerable
torment. We obferved a great number of parrots,
and parroquets, with a variety of other birds, altogether
unknow n to us. We faw alfo a beautiful kind of doves,
fo tame, that fome of them frequently came clofe to us,
and followed us into the Indian huts. The fic(h water
here is good but rather fcarce : the wells that fupply
the natives being (b fmall, that when two or three
cocoa-nut (hells have been filled from them, they are
dry for a few minutes i but as they ptcfently fill a^in,
if a little pains were uken to enlarge them, they would
abundantly fupply any fliip with water. We obtained
cocoa-nuts and fcurvy.grafs in great quantities, which
were moll ineftiraable acquifitions, as by this time there
was not a man on board who was wholly untouched with
the fcurvey. All this day the natives kept thcmfelvca
clofoly concealed, and did not even make a fmoke
upon any oart of the ifland, as far as we could fee.
In the evening we all returned on board, highly plcafcd
with this day's amufcment and work. This ifland lies
about 67 leagues from the iflands of Difappointmenr,
in the direduon of W. half S. and in the latitude of
i4deg. 39 min. S. longitude 148 dcg. 50 min. W.
The inhabitants feem to have fome notions of religion,
OS we faw a place, which we concluded to be appro,
priated to their manner of worfliip. A rude, but very
agreeable avtoue opened to a (jpacious area, in which
was one of the ItrgcA and molt fpreading cocoas wc
faw in the place ; before which were feveral lai^e (tones,
probably atears ; and from the tree hung the figure of a
doR adorned with tieathers.
On Wednefday the i3th, we vifitcd another ifland
which had been feen to the weflward; and fleered
S. W. by W. clofe along the N. E, fide of it, which is
about f» or fcven leagues long. This ifland nukes
much the&me appearance as the other, having a large
^t lake in the middle of it. The (hip no fooner came
in light, than the natives repaired in great numbers to
the beach, armed in the fame manner as ihofc already
defrribed. but not of fuch boiflerous manners. Tlw
boats founded as ufual along the flwre, but had (IriA
orders not to mded the Indians, except it ihovld be
abfolutely neoeflTary in their own defence; hut on tha
contrary, toufe every gentle method in order to obtain
. their cmfidence and good will. They rowed as near
the fliore at they duHl for the furf; arid making figns
6f their wanting water, the Indiana readily underAoofl
them, and dircded them to run down fimher alon^ the
(hore, which they did, till they came abreail of fi«;h a
.duller of houics, as we had jull left upon the other
ifland. The Indians followed them thithi;r, and were
there joined t^ many others. The boats iaiinedi%tcly
hMfed clofe into the furf, and we brought to with t)ie
(hibs, at a little diftance from the flwre; upon wniicb^a
Commodore BYRON'S VOYAGE— for making Difcoverics in the Southern Ocean. &c. 239
IhHJt old m«n, with a long white beard, came down
from the houfe* to the beach, attended by a young
man, and appeared to have the authority of a chief or
king. On hi» malting a fignal, the reft of the Indians
retired to a fmali diftance, and he then advanced to
the water's edge, holding in one hand the green bra|ich
of a tree, and in the otner grafping his beard, which
he preiled to bis bofom. In this attitude he made a
UmfT fpcech, or rather fong, for it had un agreeable
cadence. We were forry that we could not underftand
Mm, but to (hew our good will, while he was fpeak-
ing. we threw him fome trifling prefenu, which he
would neither touch himfelf. nor fuifer them to be
touched by others, till he had done. He then walked
into the water, and threw to us the green branch t
after which he took up the things which had been
thrown from the boau. Every thing having now a
firiendly appearance, we made figns that they Ihould lav
down their arms; and moft of them having complied,
one of the midlhipnMn, encouraged by thu teftinnony
of confidence and friendfliip. leaped out of the boat
with his clothes on, and fwam through the furf to the
ihiore. on which the Indians flocked round him. finging
and dancing as if to cxprefs their jo^. and began to
examine his ckxhes with feeming cunofity t they par-
ticularly Ihewed figns of admiration on viewiiw his
waiftcoat 1 upon which he took it off, and prelented
it to them. This adl of generofity had a dilagree J>lc
tffeA i for he had no fooner given away his waiftcoar,
than one of the Indians untied his cravat, and the next
moment fnatched it from his neck, and ran away with
it. He therefore, to prevent his beihg ftripped, made
thebcftof his way back to the boat. We were dill
however upon good terms, and feveral of the Indians
fwam ofi^ to us, wme of them bringing a cocoa-nut. and
others a little frclh water in a cocoa-nut (hell. We
endeavoured to obuin from them fome pearls, but we
could not make ourfelves underftood. We (houk). how-
ever, probably have fucceeded better, ha' mi intcrcourfe
of any kind been eftabliflicd between us, but unluckily
no anchorage could be found for the Ihips. In the lake
•me faw two very large veflcls, oncof which had two mafls.
and fome cordage aloft. To thefctwo iflands the Coin-
Riodoregavethc name of KingGcorae'sIflands,in honour
of his prefcnt Majefty. That which we iaft vifited lies in
latitude 1 ^dcg. 41 min. S. longitude 1 49 deg. 1 5 min. W.
On Thurroav the 13th, having continued our courfe
to the weftward, about three o'clock. P. M. we defcried
land, bearing S. S. W. diflant fix leagues. We im-
mediately flood for it. and found it to lie E. and W.
and to be about 60 miles in length. It is diAant from
King George's Iflands about 48 leagues, in the direc-
tion of fouth 80 deg. W. fituatcd in the latitude of
15 d^. S. and the weftermoft end of it in iji deg.
53 mm. W. longitude. We ran along the fouth-fide '
of it, and the appearance of the country exhibited a
plcafant green furface; but a dreadful furf breaks upon
every part of the fliore. with foul ground at fome dif-
tance, and at about three leagues are many rocks and
iflots. It has a narrow neck of land running S. by W.
and N. by E. We faw a number of Indians, and feveral
canoes difperfcd about different parts of the ifland, to
which was given the name of the Prince of Wales's
Ifland. From its weftem extremi^, we (leered north
S3 deg. W. and on the i6th at noon, obferved in la-
titude 14 deg. 38 oiin. S. and in 156 deg. 33 min. W.
longitude. The mountainous fwell from the fouthward,
which to this day we had loft, now returned ; and we
were attended '^ith vaft flocks of birds, which in the
evening took thcii fltsht to the liawthward ; from which
appearances we c< aduded, more land lay in that direc-
tion I the difcovery of which we fliould have attempted,
had not the ficknefs of the crews in both fliips been
an infiiperablc bar to fiich an attempt. On the 1 7th.
the fwell continued, and various kinds of birds flew
about thefliipi fuppofing therefore land to be not far
diftant, we proccedr J with' caution, for the iflands in
this patt of the ocean .r >der navigation very dangerous,
thc^ being To k>w, that a Ihip may be ck>re in with thetii
before the]ra(c4eeB. Nathing jiuterial occurred on *
the 1 8th and 19th. On the 20th, we found ourhtitude
to be 1 3 deg. ;).) min. S. longitude 167 deg. 47 min. W,
The prince of Wales's Ifland, diftant 313 leagues.
On Friday the 3 1 ft, at fcven o'clock, A. M. we again
faw land a-hcad. bearing W. N. W. and diftant about
eight leagues. It had the appearance of three iflands •
from this point of fight s and the.Commodore took them
for Solomon's Iflands, fcen by Quiros, in the beginning
of the 1 7th century, and very imperfcdUy defcribed by
him. But on our nearer approach, we found only a
tingle illand. about 1 3 miles in length, furrounded with
ftioals ;ind breakers, on which account it was named the
Ifland of Danger. The reef of rocks which we firft
faw. when wc approached this iflc, lies in latitude
10 deg. 15 min. S. and in 169 deg. 38 min. W.
longitude -, and it bears from this reef W. N. W. dif-
tant nine leagues. From the Prince of Wales's Ifland
it bean north 76 deg. 48 min. W. diftant nine leagues.
As you run in with the land, you fee the fands, and
about feven leagues ofl^from the mofl caftem parts of
the ifland, lies a ridge of rocks, near a quarter of a mile
in length, and when abreaft of thefe, die ifland bears
W. by N. We failed roimd the north end. and upon -
the N. W. and W. fide faw innumerable rocks and
(hoals. which ftrctched near two leagues into the fea,
and were extremely dangerous. But as to the ifland
itfelf, it had a more beautiful and fertile appearance
thanany we had fcen before, and, like the reft, abounded
with people and cocoa-nut trees. I'he habitations of
the natives we faw ftanding in groups all alonz the
coaft. At a diftance from this we obferved a large
velTcl under fail. It was with much 1 egret that we
could not fuflicicnily examine this place, \vnich we were
obliged to leave by rcafon of the rocks and breakers,
that furrounded it in every diredion, which rendered
the hazard attending a minute furvey, more than an
equivalent to every advantage we might procure.
On Sunday the 23d, having ftill proceeded in our
courfe to the weftward, at nine o'clock, P. M. the
Tamar, who was a-head. fired a gun. and our people
imagined they faw bickers to the leeward t but we
were foon convinced, that what had been taken for
breakers, was nothinfr more than the undulating re-
fledion of the moon, whica was going down, and (hone
fiiintly from behind a cloud in tne horizon. We had
this day exceflive hai- i (bowers of rain, on which we
feizcd fuch a favourable opportunity of filling our
calks with a frefli fupply of water. 'This is performed
on board of (hip, by extending large pieces of canvafs
in an horizontal pofition, hanging them by the comers*
and placing a cannon ball, or any heavy body in ths
center; by which means the rain running trickling
.down to the middle, pours in a ftream into the cafks
pUccd under. In this manner the Manilla (hips,
during the long paflages they make through the South
Seas, recruit their water, from t'ne great (bowers of rain
which at this feafon of the year fall in thefe latitudes,
for which purpofe they always carry a great number of
earthen-jars with them. On the 34th, we had moderate
fair weather, and at ten o'clock, A. M. we defcried
another ifland, bearing S. S. W. diftant about feven
or eight leagues. We found it to be low, and covered
with wood, among whitzh, were cocoa-nut trees in great
abundance. But though the place itfelf has ^ plnfant
appearance, a dreadful fea breaks upon almoft every
part of the coaft. and a great deal of foul ground lies
about it. A large lake is in the middle of this ifland,
and it is near 30 miles in circumference. It is about
four leagues in length from E. to W. nearly as much
in breadth, and lies in latitude 8 deg. 33 min. S. and
in 178 deg. 16 min. W. longitude from London. Wc
failed quite round it. and. when on the lee-fide, fent
our boats out to found for an anchomng-place. They
returned with the unfavourable news that no foundings
wercto begot near the (hore. However, having been
difpatched a fccond time ro procure fome refrefhmencs
for the fick, they landed wi^ great difficulty, and
brought off about 200 cocoa-nuts, which to perfbos in
our circumftances, were an incftimable treafurc. They
foitnd on fhore tiioufands ^| fca-fowl fitting on theit
ncfts,
CIS
Ml
}?
t. f
24<3
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complete.
)i ■
i '
n.'fts, and f« diverted of (car, that 'hey did not attempt
to move at the approach of the feanien. but fuHcred
theiTifelvcs to be knocked down, having no apprchen-
fion of the mifchief that was intendra thcni. The
ground was covered with land crabs ; thcfc were the
only animals we faw, nor did we obfcrve the leart fign
(if any inhabitants ; and it was fuppofed never before
to have received the mark of human foot fteps. The
Commoilore was inclined to believe, that this ifland
was the fame that in the French charts is laid down
about a degree to the eartward of the great ifland of
Saint Elizai)eth, which is the principal of Solomon's
Illands.but being afterwards convinced of the contrary,
he named it the Duke of York's Ifland, in honour of
his late roval highnels.
On Friday the 38th. wc gave up all hopes of feeing
Solomon's Iflands, which we had expedcd to vifit, and
fhould certainly have found, had there been any.fuch
iflands in the latitude in which they are placed in our
maps. Thcfe iflands are faid to have been difcovercd
by Ferdinand dc Qui'ros, who reprefcnted them as ex-
ceeding rich and populous; and Icveral Spaniards who
have pretended thit they were driven thither by ftrefs of
weather, have faid, that the tiatives, with rcfpcift to their
behaviour, were much like thofe of the continent of
America, and that they had ornaments of gold and
lilver ; but though the Spaniards have at different times
lent fcveral pcrlons in fearch of thefe iflands, it was
always without fucccfs : which mull probably proceed,
either from the uncertainty of the latitude in which
they arc faid to be found, or the whole being a fidion.
There is indeed good rcafon to believe, that there is
no good authority &r laying down Solomon's Iflands in
the lituation that is afligncd them by the French: the
only perfon who has pretended to have feen them, is
the above mentioned Quiros.and wc doubt whether he
left behind hini any account of thcrti, by which they
might be found by future navigators. However, wc
continued our courfe in the track of thefe fuppofed
iflands, till the 39th, and being then 10 dcg. to the
weftward of their lituation in the chart, without having
feen any thing of them, wc hauled to the northward,
in order to crofs the line, and afterwards to fliape our
courfe for the Lad rone I Hands, which though a long
run, we hop>ed to accomplifh, before we fhould be diu
trcfTcd tor water, notwithftanding it now began to fall
ihort. This day we obfcrved in latitude 8 d«g.
13 min. S. and in 176 min. 20 min. E. longitude.
On Tucfiliy the and of July, at four o'clock, P. M.
.we difcovercd an ifland bearing north, diftant fix leagues.
Wcrtood for it till fun-fet, and then kept ort'anid on
for the night. In the morning wc found it to be a low
tiat illand, of a moll delightful afpeiil, full of wood,
among which the cocoa-nut tree was very confpicuous.
However, we had the mortification to find niuch foul
ground about it, upon which the fea broke with a
threatening furf. We fleered along the S. W. fide of
it, which we Judged to be about four leagues in iengtli, .
and foon perceived that it was not only inhabited, but
very populous. Immediately about 60 canoes, or rather
pruis, put oft' to the fliips, none of which had fewer
than three, nor more than fix perfons on board. Thefe
Indians had nothing of that fierce difpofition, which
had, in many inrtances, totally cut oft" all friendly in-
tercourfe. After gazing at the fhips for fonie time, one
of them fuddenly fprung out of his proa hitothe fea,
and fwam to the Dolphin, then ran up the iidcs like a
cat. He had no fooner readied the decks, than fitting
down, he buril into a violent fit of laughter ; then
rtarted up, and ran all over the fhip, attempting to rteal
whatever he could lay his hands on ; but, bemg ftark
naked, he was always foiled. A Teaman put him on
a jacket and.trowfers, which caufed great diverfion, as
he difplayed all the antics of a monkey. At length he
leaped over-board, with his new habiliments, and fwam
back to his proa. The fucccfs of this adventurer en-
couraged feveral others to fwim to the fhip, and what-
ever they could feizc they carried olF with aftonilhing
agility. Thefe Indians are tall, well-proportioned, and
Clean limbed j their fkin of a bright copper colour ;
their features exceeding regular; and their coun>
tenanccs exprefling a furprifing mixture of intrepidity
and cheerfulnefs. Their hair is black and long, which
fome wore tied up behind in a great bunch, others in
knots: fome had long beards, fome only whifkers, and
fome nothing more than a fmall tuft at the point of
the chin Except their ornaments, they were all (lark
naked : thefe confirted of (hells very prAtily difpofed>
and rtrunc together, and were worn round their necks,
wrirts and waifls. All their ears were bored, but no
ornameats were feen in them; though as the lobe»of
their ears hung down almort to their (houlders, it is
highly probable, tliat fomething of confidcrable we^t
. is at times affixed to them by way of ornament. One
man in the group appeared to be a perfon of confe-
quence; he had a firing of human teeth nwind hii
wairt, which nothins that was fhewed him could in-
duce him to part with. Some were uniirmcd, but other.,
had a very formidable weapon, confilHng of a kind of
fpear, very bnxid at the end, and iluck full of fltark's
teeth, which are as (harp as a lancet at the fides, for
about three feet of its length. The officers fhcwcd
them cocoa-nuts, and made figns that they wanted more ;
but inflead of giving any intimation that their country
fiimifhed fuch fruit, they endeavoured to feize upon
thofe they faw. To this ifland we gave the name of
Byron's Ifland. It is feated in latitude i deg. 18 min.
S. and in 1 73 deg. 46 min. E. longitude.
Os=
C H A P. IV.
^heiivojbips dt'purl from Byron's Ifland— JCnfi the Eauiaoxial Line— Arrive at Tinian— Anchor in the very /pot where
ijji-d Aiifjii hiy in ibe Ciniurion — A dejcriptie^t of IM ifland, -with remarkable incid'-ls and trimfailioiis — Ohfervationt
»tt the Indians, and the conjlruilwH ef their proas — They /ail from the Ladrone Iflands — Touch at the ifle of Pulo Timoan.
— An acnurit of the MalAys— Arrive at Batavia — jt particular de/cription 0/ the fiale and fituation of ibis country —
i'ajfa^e/rom Balaiia to the Cape of Good Hope — Oh/erva/ions during our flay there — Set /ail and pa/s the ifland of St.
Helena— -The 'tamar fleers fir ylnlipta in order to refit — Ami the Dolpbiu on the ^tb of May, 1 766, anchor in the
Dozvns.
ON Wcdnefday the third of July, we fent out the
boats to found, foon after we had brought to off
Byron's Ifland; uhen returned, they reported, that
there was depth of m-oimd at 30 fathom, within iwo
cablci length ot the fliore, but as the bonom wascoial
rock, and the foundings much too near for a (hip to lie in
fafety, wc were obliged to make fail, without havinat
procured any refrclhiitents tor our fick. We now flecicd
nearly due north, and crofl'ed the line two dqi^Rct be-
yond the extremity of wellcrn longitude from London^
or in 17S deg. K. In our courfe, wc faw great qvan-
I
titles of fifh, but none could be ukcn, except fliarks,
which were become a good difh even at the Commo*
dore's own table.
On Sunday the 3 1 (I, all our cocoa-nuts by this time
being expended, the nwn began to fall down again with
the fcHrvy. Thefe nuts had, in an artonifhing. man-
ner, checked the progrefs of this dreadful diforder :
many whoTc limbs were become as black as ink, who
could not move without the affiftance of two men, and
who, befidcs being entirely difablcd, fuffcred excruciate
ingpain. had been in a few days, b/ eating thefe nun^
(a
' • • ■ - ' — ' • • iiiriiiMiiii I— ii I •■••TTi-
CoMMObORE BYRON's VOYAGE— for iritking Dlfcoveriw in the Sovthbrn Ocb an» &e. «4i
fo far rtcovcred, 4s W do their dUty, and tvtn go aloft
as well as they did before they were feized by this dif-
temper. The favoortble report which the wHter of.
Lord Aflfon's voyage had made Of Tiniart, one of the
Ladroncs. (i range ofidands fo named by Magellan,
on One of which fie loft his life, in an encounter with
the natives) induced our Commodore to proceed to fo
friendly an afylum, as that was defcribed to be, for djf-
eafed and exhauftcd mariners. Accordingly on the
aSth, in latitude 13 deg. min.N. and in 158 deg.
CO min. E. longitude 1 and being now nearly m the
parallel of Tinlan, we (hapcd our courfc for that ifland.
On the 30th we again faw land, which proved to be the
iflands of Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan, which are be-
tween two and three leagues diftant from each other.
On the 3 1 ft, we fteered along the eaft-fide of them, and
kt noon,' hauling round the fouth point of Tinian, be-
tween that ifland and Aiguigan, anchored at the S. W.
point of it, in 16 fathonu n-ater, on good ground, and
m the very fpot where Lord Anfon lay in the Centurion,
in Auguft 1 742. As foon as the ftiip was fecured. the
Cofhmodore went on fliore, to fix upon a place where
tents might be creAed for the fick, not a fingle man
being at this lime free from the fcurvy, and many
were in the laft fta^ of it j yet not one on board had
died fince our fcttme out from England. We found
fevcral huts which had been left by the Spaniards and
Indians the year before ; for this year none of them as
yet had been at the place, nor was it probable that thev
fhould come for fome months, the fun being now almou
vertical, and the rainy feafon fet in. The Commodore
affirmed, that he never felt fuch heat, either on the coaft
of Guinea, in the Weft Indies, or upon the ifland of
St. Thomas, which is under the line. The thermo-
meter which was kept on board the Dolphin, generally
ftood at 86 degrees, which is but degrees lefs than the
heat of the blood at the heart, and had it been on ihorc,
it would have rofe much higher. After a fpot had been
fixed upon for the tents, fix or feven of the men en-
deavoured to pufti through the woods, in fearch of the
beautiful lawns and meadows defcribed in Anfon's
voyage ; but the trees ftood fo thick, and the place was
fo overgrown with underwood, that they could not fee
three yards before them ; they were therefore obliged to
be continually hallooing to each other, to prevent their
being fcparatcly loft m this tracklcfs wildernefs. As
the weather was intolerably hot, they had nothing on
but their flioes, flilrts, and trowfcrs ; and thefe.were foon
torn to pieces by the bufties and brambles : at laft, how-
ever, they got through, with incredible labour and dif-
ficulty ; Diit found the lawns entirely overgrown with a
ftubborn kind of reed or brufli, in many places higher
than their heads, and no where lower than their middles,
which continually entangled their legs, and cut them
like whipcord. During this excurfion, they were covered
with flies from head to foot ; and whenever they offered
to fpeak, they were furc of having a mouthful, many ot
which never failed to get down their throats. After
having walked three or four miles they faw a bull, which
they killed, and a little before night got back to the
beach, ah wet as if they had been dipt in water, and fo
fatigued, that thev were fcarce able to ftand.
On Thurfday the ift of Auguft, a party was difpatch-
ed t^o fetch the bulij and our people were employed in
fctting up more tents. As the Commodore himfelt
was very ill of :he fcurvy, he ordered a tent to be pitched
for himfelf, and took up his refidence on fliore, where
we alfo erofled the fmitn's forge, in order to repair the
iron work of both (hips. We were likewifc employed
in getting the water caflts on (hore, and clearing the
well at which they were to be filled. This well we
thought to be the fame the t cnturion wateied at, but
it was the worft we had met with during the voyage,
for the water was not only brackifli, but full of worms.
Alfo the road wlierc the fliips lay was a dangerous
lituation at this feafon, for the bottom is a harcffand,
and large coral rocks, and the anchor having no hold
in the fand, is in perpetual danger of being cut to pieces.
Wc did not perceive thefe dilagreeable circumftances
No. 29.
I
when we firft caft Mchdr, thinking then the ground td
1>e good ; bnt finding the contrary afrer having moored,
to prevent any bad confequences, we rOuiidcd the cables
and buoyed them up with emptv calks. Afterw!trd<
finding the cables much damageOi we refolved to l\6
fingle for the future, that by veering awAy, or hcaVing
in, as wit fliould have mcn-e or leTs wind, Wc might
always keep them from being flack, confcquentlv from
rubbing, and this expedient uicdecdcd to our wiftii At
the fiilfand change of the moon, a prodigious fwell
tumbles in here t and it once drove in from the Wbft-<
ward with fuch fiiry, that we were obliged to put to
fea for a week ; for had our cable parted in the night,
and the wind been upon the (hore, which fometimes
happens for two or three days together, the ihip muft
inevitably have been loft on the rocks. Thus had we
arrived at this delightful ifland, after a pafTage of four
months and twenty days, from the Straits of Magellan,
with this furprifing and happy circumftance, that during
this long run, though many had great complaints of
the fcurvy, from the fait provilions they had oecn ob-
liged to live upon, yet through the care of the Com-,
modorc, in caufing the people to be fupplied at ftated
times with poruble foup, and the refrefninents we had
obtained from feveral iltajidt, we had not buried a fingle
man ; and we had now, by being favoured with fair
weather, an opportunity of fending our fick on fhore,
into the tents, which fome of our nien had foon pre-
pared for their reception. But while we flayed here
two died of fevers ; and in the Commodore's opinion,
from the almoft incelTant rains, and violent heat, during
the feafon we were here, this beautiful and fertile ifland
is one of the moft unhealthy ipots in the world. We
frequently dilpatched parties mto the woods in fearch
of cattle, which, from theaccountpubliflicd in the hiftory
of Commodore Anfon's voyage, we expeded to find in
numbers ; but to our difappointment, a few only were
difcovered at a great diftance from the tents, fo very
(hy, that it was difiicult to get a (hot at them 1 and
moie fo to drag them fix or feven miles to the tents, the
wo<
parted this life ; and foon after died Peter Evans, one of
the feamen belonginq to the Tamar. This dav we got
our copper oven on ibore, and baked bread, wtiich we
ferved to the fick ; the whole being under the indy is formed of
two pieces joined end ways, and neatly fewed together
with bark : and as the ttrait run of her leeward fide, and
her fmall breadth, would certainly caufc her to overfet,
a frame called an out-ric^r, is laid out from her to the
windward, to the end oTuhich is fattened a log, made
hollow, in the ttiape of a fmall boat : thus the weight
of the frame balances the proa, and that, with the fmall
boat, always in the water, prevents her overfettiiw to
the windward. The vcflel generally carries fix or (even
Indians, two of whom fit in the head and ftern, who
ftcer the proa alternately, with a paddle, according
to the tack flie goes on; he in the flern being the
fteerfnoan; the rctt are employed in fctting and trim-
ming the fail, or bailing out the .water Ctie may acci>
dentally ttiip. Thus by only flufting the fail, thefe
veflels with either end forcmajl, can, with aftonifliing
fwiftnefs, run from one of thcie iflands to another, ana
back again, without eyer putting about. While wc
lay at this place, the Tamar was fent to examine the
ifland of Saypan, which is much larger than Tinian,
rifes higher, and has a much pleafanter appearance.
The Tamar anchored to the leeward, at the dittance of
a mile from the fliore, and in to fathom water, with
much the fame kind of eround as we had in the road
of Tinian. Some of ne Tamar's company landed upon
a fine fandy beach, which is fix or feven miles long,
and walked up into the woods, where thm difcovered
nuny trees very fit for top mafts. They faw no fowls
nor any tracks of cattle, but plenty of bqes and guaoi-
coes : alfo Urge heaps of pearl oyfter-fhclis thrown up
together, ana ether figns of people having been there t
pofTibly the Spaniards may go thither at fome feafons
of the year, and carry on a pearl fifhery. As we (haU
have an opportunity of again mentioning thefe places
in our accounts of other voyages, we here, for thfc amufo*
ment of our numerous fublcribers, infett what other
navisntors, and judicious writers, have related both 6f
the rhilippihe iUid LJidroiic Iflands, bothlttuatttl in
the
Commodore BYRON's VOYAGE— for making Difcovoies in the SoirruKUN Ocean, &c. 24^
the ftclfic Ocean, and at no great dillancc from each
other.
An Mcma tf the Pbilipbint, and Ladrone, or Marian
Iflamis.
THE Philippine Iflamis arc fituatc in the Chinelian
Sea, part of the Pacific Ocean, between 114 and 130
degrees of eaftern loneitucje, and between 5 and 1 9
dcffrcet of north latitude, about 100 leagues S. \l. ol
China, Thei« arc noo of them, and fcvcral very
large. The chief of the moft northerly of them is
MaKila or Luconia, which is the largtft of the Philip-
pine!, and is fituate in r 5 deg. of rtorth latitude, being
about 400 miles long aiM above 1 80 broad in moil
places. . « . u
The capital of thU ifland; md of all the rcit, is the
city of Manila, fituate on a bay in the S. W. part of
the ifland, being two miles in circumference, fu .round-
ed by a wall and other works, a very com-nodious
harbour, but of difficult acccfs, r
. I.
\0 .
k, '.If
A
ft
d44 VOYAOE8 R O U-N D the WORLD CoMPtEtE*
H
MedicuMi indfweet gunu, ifluing from the bodies of
tieet are put of the prrauce : fcrpents of varioua kinds
are found in diefe ilnnds i but the fathers who relate
that fome of theni are fo laige, they will fwailow a (tag,
horm and all, furely do not expetft to be believed, any
more than when th^ relate, tmt riie leaves of trees are
converted into ii^eos i but the lad of thefc (lories may
proceed from a ihi(hkke, for it is certain that fome in-
fo^ depofit their eggs (as they do with us) upon the
leaves of trees, whicn are hatched there, as is tnc cafe
of the cochinod fly i and they might ignorantly imagine
that thoTe infedb prweed from tlw leiu. The alligators
are very dangerous ; and the ignana, a kind m land
allisator, does a great deal of mifchief. Among their
birds, are pcacocKs, parrots, cocatoos, and turtle-doves,
which are very beautiful, fowls with black bones, and the
bird uvan, which lays a number of eg;gs in trenches in
the (and, and leaves them to hatch tKcrc. The faliein
faftens her ncds to fome rock, as a nuitin does againft a
wall, which diflblving into a kind of jelly in warm
water, is efteemed delicious food. Here is alfo the
xdobird, which eats likeaturkev; the camboxa is a
well tafted fowl peculiar to thefc iflands. The herrero
or carpenter, is a fine laigc green bird. It is called
the carpenter, becaufe its beak is fo hard, that it digs a
hole in the trunk, or (bme large branch of a tree, in
order to build its neft.
' Their fruitsarenuneoes, plantains, bananoes, cocoas,
tamarinds, cadla, and the cocoa or chocolate nut, which
has been brought oyer from Mexico t oranges, lemons,
and all manner of tropical fruiu. The cinnamon and
nutmeg-tree have been planted here i but dq^enerate.
and are good for little.
A great deal of good timber and dying woods grow
in thefc iflandsi and thecalamba, or fwcct-wood, a icind
of cane, grows in the mountains, which, if cut, yields
a draught of water, and is of great fervice to the
natives.
They have one plant that has all the properties of
and is ufed u a fubftitute for opium; of this the natives
are very fond, and fitquentJy intoxicate themfclves
with it.
, flowenandfwcet-herbaerowwildhere.butthcydonot
cuUivate them in their gardens, and there are abundance
of medicinal, as well as jpoifonous hcrb|s and flowers,
which do not ool|r kill tho(e that touch or ufte them,
but fo infed the air, that many people die in the time
of their Uoflbminz : on the contrary, thcfe iflands are
Erovidcntially well furnifhed with antidotes, particu-
iHy the bezoar ftone, which is found in the belly of
a creature much like a deer s and the root dilao, which
is like ginger, and heals wounds made by any ve-
nomous besdl, bcin^ btuifed and boiled with oil af
cocoas.
The tree camondog is fo venomous, that the pilchards
eating the leaves wmch fall into the fea die r as -will
the perfons who eat thejpoifonedfifh. The liquor which
flows from the trunk of this tree fcrves thcfe people to
poifon the points of their darts which they blow through
the trunks abovementioned : the very (hadow of the tree
is fo deflnultive, that, as far as it reaches, no herb or
grafs grows, and if tranfplanted. it kills all the other
plants it (lands near, except a fmall flirub which is an
antidote againft it, and always with it : a bit (^ a twig
of this (Imib, or a leaf carried in a man's mouth, is
laid to be a fecurity againft the venom of the tree, and
therefore tiie Indians are never without it.
The maka.bukay, which (ignifics the giver of life,
is a kind of ivy which twines about any tree, and srows
to the thickiwfs of a man's finger; it has long (noots
like vine branches, of which theindians make bracelets,
and eftceni them a prefervative againft poifon. There
are many other trees and plants m extraordinaiy virtue
ih thcfe iflands ; amoi^ others, there is the lenfitive
^iit, in all rcfpeds like a coiewort, which growing out
of.a Eock* avoids the touch, and retires under water :
l|!ere.'i» another that ^rovfo on St. Peter's Hill about
MiMtili)^ .whick^ .not very tall,;04j^ little leaves,
vHuclLwheneyier it is touch(edy,<)ijkWs'back and cloTctall
ju' leaves tt^tliier ; for whi(^ reaifon the Spaniard* call
it la yc(pK cofa, that is, tj|^^(hful.
Ul
There grows near Cathalagan, in the ifland of Samrtr,
a plant ota furpriflng virtue, difcovercd by the fathers
of the foCiety, as they tell us, of late years : the Dutch
have alfo fome knowledge of it, and, il is faidi wil[
?ive double the quantity of goM for it. The plant is
Hke ivy, and twines about any tree it grows pear; th*.
fruit which grows out of the knots and leaves iVfentMcs
a melocotoon in bismcfs and colour, and within h«^.
eight, ten, or fixleen itemals as big as a hazel nut, each
green and yellow, which when ripe, drop out of >hemk
ulvcs.
Theufual dofe siven of it is the weight bf half a
royal, that is the fixteonth part of an uuncc, powderrd
and mixed in wine or water j if it has no til^ the (irlt
time, the dofe is repeated, aild is a pqwenul antidote
asninft any poifon. either Of venomous herbs or dart*
which are iMed by the natives of Macafliir, Borneo, and
the Philippines.
The general langUMC fpokcn in thefc iflands is the
Malayan tongue iMOdes which, every pec^le have a
hngtnge peculiar to themfdves. They i*rite on cocoa-
nut leaves, with an iron ftyle or pen i and arts and
fciences have been introduced by the Spaniards, the
natives having nothing of this kind to boaft of before
their arrival.
All thefe iflands, excet^t Mindanao and Paragoo,
are under the iurifdi^on of a Spanifti vie- roy, who has
governors under him in every other ifland and town of
confcquence, and the like courts are etedcd tor the
trial « civil and criminal caufes. as in old Spain. Ihe
archbiftiop of Manila, the bifhops and their commif-
(aries, determine eccleflaflical caufes as in Euro()c;
but there lies an appeal from them to the pope's dc-
lagate, who refides in one of the iflands. The court o(
inquifition has alfo a commifTary here. But notwith-
ftandins the Spaniards are rcprefentcd as fovcrcigns of
thefe illands, this muft only be undcrftood of the open
country and the fea>coafts, in which there may be
309,000 fouls : but thefe are not a tenth part of the in-
habitants, the reft look upon themfelves as a free
people: every mountain almoft is poflTelTed by a different
tribe, who make war upon one another, the Spaniards
fcldom intemneddling in their quarrels. The Chincfc
were formeriy fo numerous here, that tliey difputcd
-the authority of the Spaniards: over (hem: it is com-
puted that 40,000 of them refided in and about the
city of Manila; but the Spaniards compdied them to
fubmit, and baniflied fome thoufands of them, the
reft were permitted to remain here, to carry on their
manu&dures ; for they are almoft the only artificers.
Their amu are bowa, arrows, and fauices or fpean.
broad iwords, and tubes or trunks, through which they
blow poifoned arrows, the flighteft wounds whereof are
moral, if immediate remedies are not applied. Thoy
have cane fliields alfo covered with a bufiidoe's hide,
and a head-piece for defenfive arms.
Thefe favages, as the Spaniards call them, worfhip one
fupreme Cod, and their anceftors, as the Chinele do,
from whom moft of them are defcended ; they worftiip
alfo the fun and moon, and almoft every thing they fee,
whether animate or iiuuiimate, groves, rocks, nvers,
and one particuliv tree, which they would efteem it a
fiKrilege to cut down, believing the fouls of fome of their
friends may refide in it, and that in cuttii^ the tree
they may wound a near relation. Inftead of temples,
thejr have caves, wherein they place their idols, and
facrifke to thcnk Some beautiful young virgins firft
wounds the vidUm with a fpnr, and then the priefts
difpatch the aninul 1 and, having drefTed the meat, it
is eaten by the company. Supemition prevails among
them; they have their lucky and unlucky days; and if
certain animals cn^s the way when they arc going upon
bufinefs, they will return home, and go out no more
that day. 1 he Spaniards tolerate them in their idola-
trous worfhip ( and fufier them to game, on paying to
the government 10,000 crowns per annum. They arc
alfo much given to a deteftable vice : and did not ima-
gine it to DC a crime, till the Spaniards punifhed them
for it.
The men purchafe their wives here as in Qiina ; and
the marriage ceremony is performed bjr aprieftefs, who
4 facriiices
Commodore BYRON's VOYAGE — tor making UU'covcrics in the Southern Ocean, &c. 245
1 paying to
They arc
facrifices fomc aniinal on thcoccalion i attcr which, ihe
bride is led home, and thi whole concludes with an
entertainment as at other places. They marry in their
own tribe, and with their ncarcll relations, except the
fifft degree; fome of them arc confined to one wife,
other tribes allow a plurality of women, and divorces
for rcafonable caufes on cither lide. Children arc cither
named after heroes or flowers, or from fomc accidental
circumftance that occurs at the time of their birth ; but
as foon as they marry, they chufc new namcii, and their
parents are obliged to make ufe of their old ones.
The dead arc wafhed and perfumed, wrapped in filk,
and put in a dofe coffin, near which a chell is placed
that contains the arms of a man, or domelHc utcnlils
ofa woman: mourners arc hired to adill in making a
difmal noife. They bury their dead as in China,
and do not burn them: as foon as the body is buried,
an entertainment is made, and all is converted to
mirth and fcllivity. In general, they mourn in black
garments ; and (have their heads and eye-brows.
The next Spanilh ifland to that of Manila is Samar
or Philippina, between which and Manila is a narrow
channel, called the Straight of Manila, the N. E.
point whereof is called Spirito Sandto ; the illand is
near 400 miles in circumference, the chief town, Ca-
thalagan, governed by a Spanifli alcade. The ifland
of Sebu, which lies in 10 deg. S. latitude, is the place
where Magellan M} fet up the Spanilh colours ; the
chief town named Nombre dc Dios, afterwards made
a bilhop's fee, has in it a cathedral and fcveral other
churches and nionafteries. The idand of negroes lies
weft of Sebu, and Mbs fo named becaufe it is inhabited
chiefly by blacks. Mindanao lies the moft Ibutherly of
any of the Philippine Klands, and is the largefl of them
except Manila, bei:ig near 100 miles in length, and 150
in breadth. !t it poflcfled by people of dittertnt na-
tions "nd different religions ; but the Mahometans, who
arc date on the fea-coafts, are much the moll nu-
merous, whofe fovereij^n is Oiled Sultan of Mindanao.
Thofc who pofTefs the middle of the illand arc called
Hillanoons, and another nation lliled Sologncs, arc
fituate on the N. W. coaft. The air of this iflami is
not fo hot as fnight be cxpedled, being refrclhcd fre-
quently by the fea breezes, and the periodical rains,
which lay the flat country under water. The winds
blow from the eaft, from Odobcr to May, and then
turn about and fet wefterly ; next month the rains and
ftorms fucceed ; at firll there are not more than two
or three Ihowers a day j they afterwards come oftencr,
with violent hurricanes and loud thunder, and the
wind continues wefterly until November, during which
time they have fuch ftonns that trees are blown
up by the roots, the rivers are overflowed, and they do
not fee the fun or ftars fometimes in a week: about
Auguft the air is very cool, the rain and wind are mo-
derate in September, and in Odlobcr the wind blows
from the eaft again, and it continues fair till April, and
fometimes May.
Mindanao, the capital city, lies on the fouth-fide of
the ifland, in 123 deg. 15 min. of eallem longitude,
and 6 deg. 20 min. north latitude, near the mouth of
a river, and about two miles from the fea ; the houfes
being built on bamboo pillars, 16 or 18 feet above the
furface of the ground, on account of the annual floods,
when they have no communication with one another
but by boats. The city is about a mile in length,
built along the winding bank of the river; the Sultan's
palace is fupported by 180 trees, and has 20 cannon
mounted in the front ; and (jveral of the nobility have
great guns in or before their houfes. Large fliips
cannot come up to the town, there being fcarce 1 1 feet
water on the bar, at the entrance of the river.
The natives are held to be men ofa fprightly genius,
but very lazy and indolent, and will rather thieve than
work ; but none arc more adtive when they find there
is a necefllty for it ; and there may be two rcafons for
their laZy difpofitron. one from the heat of the cli-
mate, and the other from the tyranny of the govern-
rnent, no man being fure he Ihall enjoy what he acquires
by his induftry.
No. 39. II
1 he Mindanayans are of a low ftature, and vcr/
flender, of dark, tiv;ny complexions, black fyes and
hair, flat faces, .(hort nofes, wide mofjths^ and black
teeth, vvhich thev take abundance of plains to dye of
that colour ; and they wear the nails'of their left hands
almod as long again a^ their fingers', ifcraping and dying
them with Vermillion.
The men have a haughty mein, and yet are faid to be
very complaifant to foreigners, unlefs they are infulted,
and then triey feldom fail to rcfent the alfrcuit, and des-
troy their enemy by poifon or a dagger, never hazarding
their pcrfons in a duel.
Their habit is a linen frock and drawers, and a fmall
piece of linen cloth, tied about their heads, but they go
bare-foot: the complexion, and features of the women
are better th.in thofc of the men j but yet they too much
refemblc the other fcx, and cannot be admired for their
beauty ; they wear a frock like the men, and a piece of
cloth round their waifts ; the Hccvcs of the frock be-
ing large, and coming down to their wrifts. Their
hair is tied up in a roll at the hinder part of their heads.
The men ftiave their heads, all but a lock that is left in
the middle of the crown, like other Miiliometans; their
beards arc very thin, being pulled up by the roots with
tweezers.. People of figure are cloathed in filk or fine
callico ; the women go barefoot as well as the men, and
adorn their arms anq fingers with bracelets and rings.
They arc not reftraincd from convcrfing with their
countrymen or foreigners.
The food of people of condition is flclh, fifh, and
fowl of all kinds, except hogs flefh, which the Ma-
hometans never touch. The poorer fort content them-
felves with rice and fago. Rice is the principal part
of the meal with all ofthun; they take it up with their
hands, ufing neither knives or fpoons ; and their
meat, whatever it be, is boiled to r.igs, that it may very
ealily be pulled to pieces wi:li tlieir fingers. They
ufually drink water, but make a pretty llrong liquor
with plantains ; they wafti before and after every
meal, and bathe fcveral times ,1 day. Swimming
is one of the chief divcrfions of the women, as well
as the men, to which they are ufed from theh- in-
fancy.
Upon joyful occafions the dancinpj girls, as they arc
called, arc fent for to divert the company; but this
dancing confifts only in flcrewing tliemfelvcs into
lafcivious poftures, and nddtelTing their <:;reat men with
flattering fpeeches. They have plays and mock fights
alfoadled before them, and huaanf bread, having firll baked
or roafted it in the embers : it is in fcalbn eight iiionth!i
in the year, and grows only in thefe inandn.
Dampier relates, that when he was there (about the
year 1700) there were not above icxj Indians upon
the ifland, though he was informed there had been
3 or 400 fomtimc before : and the reafon given why
there was no more at that time was, becaufe moft of
them had burnt their plantations, and fled to other
iflands on their being ufcd ill by the Spaniards.
Iheir fwift-failing flciops. or tiying prons, are the
admiration of all that fee them ; the bottom of the
veflcl, or the keel, is of out piece, made like a canoe,
J 8 feet in length, built fliarp at both ends, one fide of
the floop Hat, and the other rounding Mith a pretty
krrge belly ; being four or five feet broad, with a niaft
in the middle. They turn the flat fide to the wind,
and having a head at each end, fail with either of them
foremaft, and have never any occafion to tack. Dtti:i-
pier computed they would fail 24 miles an hour.
The tide never rifes above two or three feet at this
ifland.
The writer of Lord Anfon's voyage relates, that they
arrived at the ifland of Tinian or Bonavifta, one of the
Ladrone Iflands, which lies north of Guam, on the
27th of Augufl, 1742, being fituatcd in 15 dec. 8 min.
north latitude, and 1 14 deg. 50 min. weft of Acapuico
in America. This ifland is 1 2 miles in length, and fix
in breadth, extending from the S. S. W. to N. N. E.
The foil is dry and landy, and the air healthful; the
land rifes in gentle flopes from the fhore to the middle
of the ifland, interrupted by valleys of an eafy defient.
The valleys and gradual fwellings of 'the ground arc
beautifully divcrfincd by the encroachments of woods
and lawns ; and the woods confift of tall fprcading
trees, celebrated for thair afped or their fruit j the
turf of the lawns clean and uniform, compofed of fine
trefoil, intermixed with a variety of flowers ; the woods,
in many places, open, free from buflies, and under-
wood, aflording moft elegant and entertaining prof-'
peds.
The cattle on this ifland were computed to amount
to 10,000, (we fuppofe he means horned cattle) all per-
fedtly white except their ears ; befides which there were
hogs and poult^ without number. The cattle and
fowls were fo fat, that the men could run them down,
and were under no ncceflity of fhooting them. Their
flefh is well tafted, and very eafy of digeftion.
About the beginning of the prefent cehtur>', this
ifland was laid to conuin at leaft 30,000 inhabitantA, .
when a dreadful mortality raging among them, pro-
digious numbers died, and the calamity prevailing
Vith equal violence in the iflands of Kota and Guam,
the Spaniards obliged thofe that remained at Tinian to
remove to Guam, in order to make good the deficiency
by the number of the fouls that had periflied in that
illaml ; fmce which time, Tinian has been wholly un-
inhabited. The ruins of the buildings in Tinian, fome
of which are of a particular form, evince it to have been
once a p(^ulous place. The ifland of Rota has not any
thing in it that demands particular attention. Its chief
produce is rice, which is cultivated by a few Indians,
who live there undifturbed, but arefubjedt to theSpanifh
governor.
Though the other iflands are uninhabited, they are in
general exceeding fertile, the air good, and the climate
temperate. They alfo produce plenty of provifions ;
but they are feldom vifitcd, on account of the great io-
conveaience arifing from the want of water for anchor.*
age.
Commodore BYRON's VOYAGE— for making Difcoveriei in the Southern Ocban, &c. 947
age.
tge. Tlnian is more commodioui in thii p«riicular,
but eren there it it very unfafe from June to CXitober.
In the month of Scpfcinbcr, the Tamnr, one of Com-
modore Byron's fliips. met vith an accident, that «a»
attended with fatal confeouenccs to two of her belt
feameni (he had, as ufual. rent her boat onlhore, when
the furf fuddenly rofc fo high as to fill the boat with
water, by which meana the men were dalhcd agamft
the fteep craggy rocks near the fliore, and two of them
drowned 1 and the reft who were lix in number, with
great difficulty efcaped fuffcringthe fame fate, byfwim-
ming to (horc, they being frequently repelled by the
unuiual fwell which prevailed at that time.
Several other iflands have lately been difcovered to
theeaftward of the Philippines) and from them called
the New Philippines, of which father Clan, in a letter
from Manila (mferted in the Philofophical Tranfac-
tions) gives the following ;:ccount : that he happening
to be at the town of Guivana, in the ifland of Samar,
found JO palars, or inhabitants of certain newly dif-
covered iflands, who were driven there by the callcrly
winds which blow in thofe feu from December to
May. They had run before the wind for 70 days to-
gether, according to their own relation, wit.iout being
able to make any land till they came in fight of Guivam :
they were 35 pcrfons, and embarked in two boats, with
their wives and children, when they firft came out, but
feveral pcriflicd by the hardfhips they underwent in
the voyage ; they were under fuch a confternation when
a man from Guivam attempted to come on board
them, that all the people which were in one of the veffcls,
with their wives and children, jumped over board ;
however, they were atJencth perfuaded to fteer into the
harbour, and they landed the 28th of December, 1696.
They eat cocoa-nuts and roots which were brought them
very freely, but would not touch boiled rice, the com-
mon food of the Afiatics. Two women, who had
formerly been call on fliore from the fame iflands, were
their interpreters ; they related that their country con-
fifled of 12 iflands, and by the form of their veflcls
and fails their country fcemed to be in the neighbour-
hood of the Mariana's, or Ladrone Iflands 1 they re-
lated that their country was exceeding populous, and
that all the iflands are under the dominion of one king,
who keeps his court in the ifland of Lamaree: the
natives go half naked, and the men paint and ftain their
bodies, making feveral forts of figures upon them, but
the women and children are not painted; the com-
plexion and fliape of their face is much like thofe of
the tawny Philippines or Malaycs : the men wear only
a cloth about their loins which covers their thighs, and
another loofe about their bodies which they tic before.
There is littlo difl^crencc betwixt the drcfs of the men
and women, but that the cloth which covers the wo-
men hangs a little lower on their knees 1 their language
is different both from the people of the Philippines
and the Ladrone Iflands, and comes nearefl to that of
the Arabs : the woman that feem molt conflderable
among them, wear necklaces, bracelets, and rings of
tortoifefliell. They fubiifted themfelves all the time
they were at fea with the fifh they catched, in a kind
of wicker baflict with a great mouth, ending in a point,
which they hauled after them ; and their drink wa*
rain water, which they happened to be fupplied with :
they have no cows, or dogs, in their iflands, and they
run away at the the fight of the one, and the barking
of the other ; neither have they any horfes, deer, cats,
or any four tooted beads whatever ; or any land fowls
but hens, which they breed up, and never eat their eggs:
they were furprizcd at the wnitenefs of the Europeans,
having never feen any people of this complexion, as
they were at their manners or cufioms : it does not ap-
pear that they have any religion, nor do they ufc any
let meals, but eat and drink whenever they arc hungry
or ihirfty, and then but fparingW. They falute any one
by uking him by the hand or foot, or gently ftroaking
hit face : among their tools thay have a faw made of
a bi^c fliell, (harpened with a flone, having no iron or
other metals in their country ; and were furprifed to
fee the many ;ooU ufcd in building a fhip. Their
arms are lances or darts, headed with human bones and
flwrpenedi They feem 10 be a people of much lite and
courage, but of a peaceful diipofition 1 and are well
proportioned, but not of a large fize. We now pro*
ceed with the narrative of our voyage>
On Monday, the (oth of September, after having
been at the ifland of* Tinian nine weeks, we found our
lick pretty well recovered i and this day the tents were
ordered to be firuck, and to be brought, with the forge
and oven on board the fhips. We alio laid in two thou-
fand cocoa-nuts, and a quantity of limes, for the ufc of
the feamen, the Commodore having experienced them
to be cflkacious antidotes againfl the fcurvy. On Tuef.*
day, the 1 ft of Oiflobcr, we weighed, and failed from
Tinian and the reft of the Ladrone iflands. Havini^
finilhed our bufincfs on which we were fent, by the dis-
covery of thofe iflands in the South-Seas, according to
our original dei\ination, we bent our thoughts to-
wards returning home, and it was propofed, fliould wc
be fo fortunate as to find the N. E. monfoon fet -n, be-
fore we flwuld get the length of the Baflie iflands, to
touch at Batavia, which our Commodere preferred to
any port of China for recruiting his fliips, he being de-
tcricd from touching at the latter, and particularly at
Canton, bythebafcand ungenerous ufagc which Lord
Anfon received there, after a voyage of much longer du-
ration, and attended with a ferics of the mofl dreadful
diflreircsandniisfbrtunes.thatcallcdrorpityandafiiflancc.
We had very little wind this day and the next, till tho
evening, when it came to the wcftwa d and blew frefli.
Ontiicjrd, in the mornin^' wc Itood to the northward,
and made the ifland of Anatacan, remarkably high, and
the fame that was firft fallen in with by Lord Anfon.
On the loth, we obferved in latitude 18 dog. 33 min.
north, and in i;j6 deg. 50 min. caft longitude. On Fri-
day, the 1 8th, feveral land birds were fcen about the
fhips, which appeared to be very much tired : a vciy
remarkable one was caught; it was about the fize of a
goofe, and all over as white as fnow, except the legs
and beaks, which were black : the beak was curvra,
and of fo great a length and thicknefs, that it is not
eafy to conceive how the inufcles of the neck (which was
about a foot long, and as fmall as that of a crane) could
fupport it. We kept it alive about four months upon
bifcuit and water, but it then died, apparently for want
of nourifliment, being almoft as light as a bladder. It
was very difTcrent from every fpccies of the toucan that
is rcprefented by Edwards; and, in the opinion of our
Commodore, has never been defcribed. Thefe birds
appeared to have been blown off fome ifland to the
northward, that is not laid dow 1 in the charts. On
Tuefdav the 22nd, at fix o'clock A, M. the northernmoft
of the ikflie iflands, being Grafton's, bore fouth, dif-
tant fix leagues. We proceeded without touching at
this place, which was propofed, and ftf'^.ed weftward
again. By our reckoning, which however the experi-
ence of Captain Gore has fincc difproved, it lies in la-
titude 21 deg. 8 min. north, and in 1 18 dcg. 14 min.
caft longitude, The principal of thefe iflands are five
in number, but we were induced not to touch at any one
of them, on account of the dangerous navigation front
thence to the flraits of Banca. On the 24th, we were
inhtitude 16 deg. 59 min. north, and 113 deg. i min.
call longitude. We therefore kept a good look-out for
the Triangles, which lie without the north end of the
Prafil, and occafion a moft dangerous Ihoal. On tho
3Gth, we found ourfelves in latitude 7 deg. 1 7 min. north,
and in 1 04 dee. aimin. eaft longitude. This day we
obferved feveral large bambcxM floating about the fhip.
On Saturday the 2nd of November, we found by ob-
fervation, our latitude to be 3 deg. 54 min. north, lon-
gitude 103 deg. 20 min eaft; and on the 3rd, wc came
in fight of the ifland of Pulo Timoan, bearing S. W,
by W. diftant about twelve leagues. On the jtli, we
anchored in a bay on ihe eaft fide of the ifland, in fix-
teen fathoms water, and at about the diftance of two
miles from the fltore. On Wedncfday the 6th, we
landed, in hopes of procuring frefh provifions, but
found the inhabitants, who are Malays, a furly infolcnt
fet of people. On feeing us approach the fhore, they
came
,'!'':
, I' ) r
■{I.-
1
\i
1'
#■
came down to tb«: beach in grea nuniben, each man
havingalong knife in one hand, a fpcar hcadtd with
iron in the other, ami a dagger by hisi lidc. Notwith-
Randing thcfc hol\ilc appearances, we landed, but could
only purchafc about a dotcn of tuwU, a suat, and a kid ;
fofr which wc /itfered them knivtH, hatchets, lUUhooki,
and the like, which they rct'ufcd w ith ^rcat lontenipt,
and demanded rupees in pauncnt. Having none ol°
thcli* pieces, \vc were at a lols how to |>ay for what we
had purchafed, but recollecting we had Ibmc pocket
handkerchiefs, they accepted of them, though they took
only the bc(K Thcfc |x:opIc are well nude nut fmali in
(laturc, and of a dark c()i)pcr colour. There wai
among thcman oldman.dreflcd fnmeuhat in the fafliion
of the Perfians, but all the icft were naked, except
fome pieces of cloth, whiihwcrc faftcned with filver
clafps round their wailh; and they wore kind of tur-
bans, made up of hamlkcnhicfs, upon their heads.
We law not any of their women, whom they probably
took care to keep out of our light. Their houfes arc
neatly built of Hit b.miboo, and raifed upon pillars
about ci^ht feet from the ground. Their boats arc of
an admirable go.'d conllruCtion, and Ihinc of them of
large dimenftons. In thefe they probably trade to Ma-
lacca. This illand is mountainous, woody, and pro-
dQccsthe cccoa-niit, and cabbage tree, in great abund-
ance! but the natives would not permit us to have any
of their fruit. We faw alfo fome rice grounds; but
what may be the other produdions of this illand we
cannot fay. In the bay is excellent filliing, though the
furf runs very high. We hauled our fcync with great
fucccfs, but could cafily perceive that by fo doing we
oflended the inhabitants, who conddcrcd all the filh
about the illam) ns their own property. Two "line ri-
vers run Hitoihis bay, and the water is excellent; wc
tilled as many calks with it as loaded the boats twice.
Some of the natives brought down to us an animal,
which had the body of a hare and the legs of a deer.
One of our officers bought it ; and wc would have kept
it alive, had it been in otir power to have procured pro-
per fuftcnanccj but this being impoiliblc, it was killed,
and wc found it excellent fixid. We liaid here only
two nights and one day, and all the time, had the mol>
violent thunder, lightning, and rain wc had ever known.
This illand of PuloTimoinlicsoli" the eallcrn coaflof
the pcninfula of Malacca, in latitude 3 dcg. 12 min.
north, longitude 105 dcg. 40 min. eal>. Finding that
nothing more was to be procured at this place.
On Thurfday the 7th, in the morning wc fet fail, and
after arriving in the latitude of Pulo Condone, we h.id
nothing but tornados, and tcnipclhious weather. On
the loth, at fcven o'clock A. M. the call end of
Lingcn bore S. W. by W. diltant twelve leagues. At
noon we anchored with the kcdgc in twenty fathoms;
and at one o'clock P. M. we faw a fmall illand, which
bore S, W. half S. diflant ten leagues. On Monday the
I ith, we weighed, and, having made fail, we dcfcricd
fome fmall iflands, which we luppofed to be Dominet,
bearing W. half N.diftant fcven leagues. At noon by
obfcrvation wc found our latitude to be 1 8 min. fouth.
On the 1 2th, at ten o'clock A. M. wc faw a fmall
Chincfcjunk; and on the 13th, a fmall illand, called
Pulo Tote. At four o'clock, P. M. we came to an an-
chor, and faw a fmall (loop about four miles diftant
from us, which hoifted Dutch colours. In the night wc
had violent rain with hard fqualls. On Thurfday the
14th, wc weighed, and at nine o'clock A. M. made
fail. The vclTcl we had feen the day before ftill laying
at vnchor, we fent a boat with an officer to fpcak with
her: the officer was received on hoard with great civi-
lity ; but w a& njuch furpri/ed at finding, that he could
not make hinifclf underftood, for the [>cople on board
were Malays, without a lingle white man among them;
they made tea for our men unuicdiotely, and m every
refpciit behaved with great hofpitality. This veflel was
of a lingular form ! her deck was of flit bamboo, and
flic was Itcored, not by a rudder, but by two large pieces
of timber, one upon each quarter. This day the wind
became more moderate and variable from N. N. W. to
W. S. W. On the 1 5th, wc fgr fad. and at two o'clock
4
the VV () R L I> C o m i- l k 1 1
P. M. Monopin hill bore S. by 1''.. diilant ten league*,
having the appearance iila fmall illand. It Ixar* b. by
W. fr(Mii the i( ven iflandi, md in dillai\t from tlicin fe«
ven leagues, in the latitude of two dcg. fuuth. Fioiii
thcfevcn illar "i wc ftccrcdS. W. by S. ami foon after
faw (he coall of Sumatra, bearing from W. S. \V. to
W. by N. dil^ant fcven leagues. In the evening we an-
chored; andonthe i6ih,at fiHir A.M. wc continued our
courfe .S. by E. till the peak of Monopin Hill bore call,
and Uatacarai.g Point, on the Sumatra llore S. W. in
order to avoid a flioal called Krederii k Hendrick,
which lies nearly midv«ay between the Iknca and Su-
matra fliorc. Wc then II cored V. S. !•'.. and kept mid-
channel, tofliun the banks of Palamb.im River, and that
which lies ot)° the weflernii>n point of Hanea. When
abreall of Palambain River we regularly ilioaled our
water, and when wc had pallid it, wc deepened it again.
We held on our courfe L. S. K. Utween the third and
fourth points of Sumatra, which arc aliout ten Uagiica
dillant frcin each other. The liijih land of (^eda
Banra appeared over the thiid point of Sumatra, bear-
ing 1'^. S. 1£. From the third point ;i) the (leoiui, the
courfe isS, E, by .S. at the dillaiU ot ilt\cn l(;i|.;iies.
The high lanil ut Queda Bama, and the Ici oiul jioinc uf
Sumatra bearF". n7i£. and VV. S. W. fioiu each other.
The llrait is live leagues "ver, and the mid tliannel is
twenty- tour •'a'hnms. .\t lix o'clock in the evening,
we anthored; and at five in the morning on the 17th,
wc weighed, with a moilertue gale at well. On Tucf-
day, the lath, we met with an FnglHli Ihow, belonging
to the F".alt Fndia Company, whole Captain with great
gcneroiity, pi''fentcd our Cominmloic with a flicep, a
do/cnof fowls, and a turtle. Tliis was a moll atiept-
able prcfent, t()r we had now nothing to cat but the
Ihip's proviiions, which were become siry bad. Our
beef and pork Hunk intolerably, and our bread was rot-
ten and full of worms. In the afternoon wc anchored.
and fent a boat to found for the (lioals which lie to the
northward of Lalipara. which illand bore from us S.
E. by S. diftiint fix leagues. On the 20th we worked
between the Ihoals and the coaft of Sumatra, and hav-
ing got through the ftratt, well known to navigators, on
the 27th, we ftcercd between the illands of Edam and
Horn, and entered the road of Uatavia, where wc an-
chored without the (hipping.
On Wedncfday the 18th, we moored nearer the town,
and falutcd the fort with eleven guns, w hich were re-
turned. We here obfcrvcd, that.fince our leaving Eng-
land, we had lofl: a day in our reckoning, by having
(\ccred weltward a year; fo that by the Dutch account
this day was the 29th of November, Wc counted in
this road more than one hundred fail great and fmall;
among which was an Englifli (hip from Bombay, alfo
the Falmouth man of war, which wc found condemned
and lying alhore, and all the men cleared for England,
except the warrant officers, who were left here till the
Lords of the Admiralty (hould think proper to recall
them. A Dutch Commodore belonging to their com-
pany is always Rationed here, who in the eyes of his
countrymen is a perfon of very great confequcnce. He
thought fit to fend his cockfwain. a very dirty ragged
fellow, who aflted the Commodore many irnpcrtiiunt
((uenions, as whence we came, ficc. at ths fame timu
pulling oat a book, pen, and ink, in order to fet down
the anfwers ; but our gentlemen being impatient to favc
him any more trouble, dclircd him mimediatcly to walk
over thclhip's lidc, and put off his boat, with which he
was gracioufly pleafed to comply. The Commodore
went on (hore, and vifited the Dutch Governor m his
country -houfe, by whom he was received with great po-
litencfs, and told, that he might take a houfc in any part
of the city, or be lodged at the hotel. Any inhabitant
of Batavia permitting a (Granger to ilecp, though but
for a fingle night in his houfe, incurs a penalty of 500
dollars: the hotel being the only liccnfed lodging-
houfe, the governor appoints the keeper of it, who was
at this time a Frenchman. This hotel is the mod fu-
pcrb building in the city, having more the air of a pa-
lace than an inn. During our Itay at this place, wc
were fupplied with good greens, fmits of all kinds, and
plenty
Commodore BYRON « VOYAGE— lew miki»« Difiovcrio* in tlw Son ihumn Ocbak, Lc. 249,
fieatf ol' frelli iiicat: \vu ttiok alio on Ixurcl 4 ^rrai
quantity of water, ac the rate Of five HiillliiH'. * Icajjir.
or a hundred and filry uallom. A fliip ol four hun-
dred and fifty torn, built at Uomhay. «a» emptoycJ in
caulking the Dolphin, andpayinghcr bottom and tiiku
with varniQi. when we arrived heir. \\c h;ul not imc
man fick in cither lljip»i but knowing Batavia tit lie
more unhealthy than any other |«rt of the liall Inilics,
and a* the rainy feafon wa» at hand, and our men ( onld
procure arrack at a very low rate, it wai »br thcfc rcii-
ton> reiblved to make our ftay at fliort as pofliblc : how-
ever, we had an opportunity of enquiring into ihc (late
of thin country, and wc hope the following pariitular
account of what wc learnt wili not be difikgrccablc to uur
friends and readers.
The illand of Java, the capital whereof is Batavia,
lies lix degrees fouth of the line, and is diviiicd from Su-
matra, difiant therefrom five fcaguci, by the ftraits of
Sunda. It i» fuppofed to be 420 miles in length ex-
unding almoft due caft and weOj but its breadth,
which IS hardly any where more than 1 50 milus, is dif-
fcrrni in different places. On the north coatt of Java
are fevcral g«xxl harbours, conrmodious creeks, and
UourifliinK towns, with many iOands near the fliore.
Though Java is fituated fo near the ciiuator, few climates
arc more temperate .ind healthful a' particular fcafons,
the call and weft winds blowing all the year all along
the Ihoic, bcfulcs the general land and fca-breezes, but
in the month of DcccMiber the coall is very dangerous,
on account of the violence of the weuerly winds.
In February the weather is changeable, with ftorms of
thunder and lightning: and in Mav the rains are fome-
timei fo violent, for three or four days together, t!:;it all
the low countries arc laid under water: oiu- git.it con-
venience attends this di/agreeable circumliance, which
is that of dedroying infinite broods of infeds, that
would otherwifc dellroy the fruits of the earth. Their
fiigar and rice ripen in July and Otitober, which months
not only furnidithc inhabitants with all kinds of fruits,
but with every neccflary and luxury of life. The land,
which is very fertile about the fca-coad, is finely divcr-
lified with hills and valleys, which, near Batavia, is
highly improved by rich planutions, fpacious canuls,
and whatever can add to the charms of a country natu-
rally plcafant and agreeable. But the Dutch have
made a very inconfiderablc progrefs in the cultivation
of the country beyond the neighbourhood of that city.
the entrance to the inland parts being almoft every
where obi) ruded by inipaflablc forefts.orby mountains,
whofe heads fccm to touch the clouds. Java produces
a great variety of fruit : there arc here cocoa trees in
abundance; and in the plains is found a tree, whofe fruit
is called jamboos, the juice whereof is ufed by the na-
tives as an infallible remedy againft the flux, which often
rages with great violence. The Indian forrel, which
has no refemblance to that in England, is eaten by the
inhabitania !" larr; quantities with their faladi, a id its
leaves mixed with faw-diiflof fandal wood is ufcc as a
certain cure for the tooth-ach. Their fruits are, in ge-
neral, very rich, particularly their pompions, the inv dc
of which are red, and taftc not unlike our cherrii s.
With refpedt to their fliapc, they bear the ncareft refem-
blance to an orange, but arc of a much larger fize; a
lingle one fometimes weighing eight or ten pounds.
This fruit, if left on the tree, continues in perfection all
the year round, and when gathered, will, with care,, keep
foMT or five months. Wc thought them fo excellent,
that we brought many of them to England. The
mango fruit rites from a white flower that grows on the
finall twigs of a tree, every way as large as our Englilh
oaks. Pepper and coffee alfo grow in the country, and
ac a fmall diilancc from Bauvia are fcveral plantations
of fugar canes, from which is made a confiderablc
{Quantity of fucar. What is here called the Indian
oak, isas durable as any that can be found in Europe,
the wood being of fuch a confiAence. as to be proof
■gainftthe worms, and, what is more, againft the mict,
which will gnaw a paffage through almoft every other
fort of wood. The leaves of this tree boiled in water,
till one half of them ii confumed, is, among the natives.
No. 3.0.
tli( general tciiicdv a^v.iinll pknnl ei, In (1 ort we were
tiilU, thutaliiioll all loriH ol ^aiJui Ihitf ihiivc fn Ua-*
tavin, iiiiil th:u rhofc brou^jht not only from Surat and
IViiia, I'lic Iruin Kuiope, yield mar that city a great in-
cicale, lo that their kifhen };ardrns produce (icafcand
bcanv u i[h routs and herbs futlicicnt finr the confump-
liiinor ihL- jnhabitHncs: however rice is the only com
that j^ti»tt!i in the illanJ. Ihc woods and fiiirlls of
Jjv.i al ouiul with a pru«Ji)>ioui variety of wild beaft*^
ns iluiioecrofcs, tygcrs, lokcs, biiftiiloes, apes, wllot
hurles, jackals, and crocodiles. Their cows are nearljr*
ns lar^'.c as ours in England, and have generally two or
three calves at a time : their Iheepare alfo nearly of the
li/e of ours. 1 hey hjvc likewile a prodigious number
of ho^s whofe fleftj is eftefmcd excellent, and far pre-
ferable to beef or mutton. Here arc a variety of fowls,
partieiilarly partridges, pheafants, wood-pigeons, wild
piaeotks, and bats fo large, that the body of ohl- of
ihcmis us big as that of a rat, and their wings vilun
extended reach at leaft three feet, from the extremity of
one to that of the other. With refpcd to reptiles, they
have many that are very pernicious, particularly fcor-
pions, among which we faw feveralthat wcic at leaft a
quarter of a yard in length 1 but thofe of a fmaller fize
are fo common, that it is hardly pofliblc to remove a
cheft, a looking.glafs, or a large pidlure, without find-
ing them, and being in danger of fullering b\ their
fting. 'I he fame creature fmothcrcd in oil, and ap-
plied to the wound is a general remedy againft their
noilon. IJelidcs thefe, there arc a great number of
rn.ikcsof illlirrent lizcs, from one loot in length to ten.
Among a variety of valuable animals ufc fill to man,
there arc none more plentiful than fifti, of which there
;irc many kinds, and very good, as alfo a great number
of turtle.
'I he illand of Java was formerly divided into fevera!
petty kingdoms, which arc at prefcnt united under the
jurifdiiiiion of the king of Bantam, who is in the pof^
ItfTionof ihceaftcrn part of the ifland, as the Dutch
are of thcwcflcrn, and fone parts of the coaft. The
iwtivcs of Java are, according to the Dutch, not only
proud beyond meafurc, but (killed in all the arts of im-
pofture. 1 heir faces are Hat and of a brow n caft, with
ftnall eyes, like theantient Chinefe, from whom they
boaft their original dcfcent. The men, who are ftrong
and well proportioned, wear round their bodies a piece
of calico, which among the more wealthy is flowered
with gold. The women arc in general fmall of ftaturc,
and have a piece of calico, which re.nchcs from their
arm-pits to their knees. The principal part of them,
cfpcciallv thofe near the coaft, arc Mahomcdans, and
the reft t'agans. In the weftern part of the ifland arc
many towns, and in the eallern, the cities of Balambuan
and Mataram are thofe in which the king of Bantam
relides, who is fliled the Emperor of Jai/a, Batavia
was formerly no more than an open village inhabited by
Pagans,andrurroundedby a palifado of bamboos; but
•fince the Dutch have eftablifhed a fcitleinent. it is be-
come one of the fineft cities in the Indies. It lies in c
deg. 50 min. fouth latitude, and is watered by many
fmall rivulets which unite into one ftrcnni, befoic they
difcharge thcmfclves into the fea. The city is of a
triangular form, fortified with a ftone wall that has
twenty-two baftions. and four great gates, twt) of which
arc exceeding magnificent. The harbour is very capa-
cious, being large enough to contain a thoufand vciftis
in perfect fccurity from the violence of the winds. It
is ftiui up every night with a chain, through which no
fhipcanpafs without permi<7ion,and paying a fixed duty
to enforce which ordinances it is guarded by a ftrone
party of foldiers. The ftreets run in right lines, and
are moft of them thirty feet broud, and paved' with
brick near the houfes. Fifteen of the ftreets have ca-
nals of water running through them, and over one of
thofe canals arc four ftrong bridges, each confifting of
four arches twelve feet broad : but in the city there arc
fifty-fix bridges, b«fides many draw-bridges without
the walls. The ftreets are fo crowded, that from four
in the morning till late at night it is difficult to pafs
through them, on account of the concourfe of people
i ^ ' continually
I
m
if
•59
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD CoMrtBTK.
v!
^ ...
? I
I II
il
eoncinually enipacd in burinrfi. Wc may obfcrvc of
tin public builaingt, (hat (he (.liincre htirpital ia a
neat ftniAure, Aipportnl by a tax laid on iivarriagis,
buritU, and public fhcwi, at well ai (he voluntary ron>
tributian of the Chinerc-mcnhant*. In the fame ftrcet
li • feundling-hoTpiul, and alfo a buiUlina, in which
art lodged all the artisana in the Duuh l<.a(t-lmiia Com.
^ny'a fcrvicc. The company have likawife a grra(
fope^yard, (hat employi a conliilcrahlt* nuntbcr ot'(hc
poorer Ton of people, who work iimler (he (hade of (he
nut-^rcea planted on each tide. Tu the weft end of
thia yard are the company's warehoufct, for mace,
cinnJinKin, clovea, and other coinmoiiitiei. In (he
c*n\t, which ii of a quadransular (igurr, built u^mn a
lla(, arc apartmanti for all the mcnilKm ol the council
of the Inaiei. The palace it within the walU of the
caflle, and ii appropriated to the ul'r of the ^rovi-rnor.
It ii built wim brick, but is cxtrrincly mugniiicent,
aod loftier than the other buildinp of the city. On
the top of the turret bc'onging to the palace, ii placed
an iron fliip curioufl^ wrotight, for the nurpnlc of a
weathercock, which » fo large that it may no fcen fttme
leagues out at fca. Round the city forts are ereClcd,
to proteifl the inhabitants of the plain from the incur-
Sons of the original natives, who before thev were
crcAcd, frequently came down upon the peo()le, and
plundered their plantations. Among the principal
public buildings are a very handfomc town-noule i a
fpinhuyS( or noufe of correction; alfo four or five
cnurches for the Dutch QilvaniOst bcfides a great
number of religious ftrudures for the ufc of pcrfons of
other religions. The garrifun coniilh of foot i and
there is a troop of horfc, as a guard for the company'it
poircfTions Mgcd in the city: thcfc men are of good
feature, and when drawn up in their uniform, make no
defpicable appearance.
The inhabitants of Batavia are a compound of various
Nations, among whom the Dutch arc the moll power-
ful and wealthy. Next to thcfc are the Chincic, who
•re, perhaps, the mod ingenious cheats in the world.
They farm the excife and cuftoms, and indeed arc fure
to be concerned in every thing from which they have
a chance of deriving the lead profit. They live under
t governor of their own, and drefi in the fame manner
as thofe in China t but wear their hair long and neatly
braided, paying, in this lad circumftance, no manner
of regard to the Tartarian edi
zens, (snon of whpm keep their carriages, it being
almoin a difgrare to be fcen on foot) where they fpenJ
as much of their time as pofTible, the (huation being
Icfs unwholefome than the city, which it built on ^
fwamp I and the trees, though they have a plcafant ap-
pearance, mull undoubtedly prevent the noxious vapours
that are perpetually ariting, from bcingdifperfed, by
nbdruifling the circulation of the air. Thus wc have
given a particular account of every thing wc faw in
Hatavia worthy of obfervationi of which place the
reader will find a (till more circumllantial, i'ull, and
complete defcription, in the hillury of Capt. Cook's
fird voyage, page 81 of thii work. We now prcpareil
for our departure j and having fitted the lX>lphin,
taken in our water, and a fuAiiicnt (lo«.k of frclh
provilions, together with a quantity of rice and ar*
rack,
On Monday the loth of December, we weighed
anchor, and fct fail with the Tamar in company, being
falutcd, on our leaving the road, by the KngliOi fliip,
the Dutch Comnxklure and the fort. We pafTed by
the Thoufand Illands, which extend along the north,
fide of Java, almoft to the weft point of New Guinea.
Commodore Roggcwein failing through the midll of
of them, and finding it impoflible to count them, gave
them, wc are told, the general name of the Thouland
Ifiand*. They are inhabited by a favagc people of
a black coinplex ion, who arc almoin naked, ami thefe
iflands arc famous ibr producing a beautiful kind of
bird, known among us by the name of the bird of
paradifc. We alfo pafTed by a multitude of other fmall
illands, commonly called the Hed of Kofcs. After
which we entered the Straits of Sunday, where the land
on each fide is very high, both on the Ihore of the ifland
of Sumatra, and that of Java, the palTage 'jctwcen
which conOitutes the Straits of Sunila. The land of
the laft mentioned ifland is very irregular, and the in-
habitants extremely poor. They trafficked with us
chiefly for old cloaths ; and we had an opportunity of
fupplying ourfclves with a great quantity of the fine(t
green turtle, fowls, and fruit of all kinds. The Com-
modore bought for 10 rixdollars, as many turtle at
weighed upwards of 1000 pounds weight, part of
which he gave to our (hip's company, and alfo fcnt
a part to that of the Tamar. On the i4xh, at fevcn in
the evening, we came to an anchor on the north-fid^
of Prince's lOand, which lies within the fouth entrance
of the Rraits, in order to recruit our wood and water.
Wc found this ifland well flocked with provifions of
all kinds, and particularly fowls. The inhabitanu are
to all appearance free from the dominion of the Dutch ;
though according to the accounts given by the natives,
they often fall viftims to their unprovoked cruelties,
as they fr quently fcize them, and reduce them to the
condition of flaves ; and even fell thein in tife fame
manner, as the negroes arc purchafed on the coafl of
Guinea. We layoff this ifland till the 19th, during^
which time, we repaired an inaonfiderable damage the
Dolphin had fuflained, by having had fome pieces of
copper torn off the larboard bow, by the fmall bower
ancnor. This done, and having taken in as much:
wood and water as wc could flow, we weighed, .ind,
working to the windward, before night got without.
Java Head. By this time a putrid fever raged among
our crew, whereof three of our hands died, and many
others lay in fo dangerous a condition that wc had littlc
hopcs of their recovery. On the 25th, being Chriflmas.
day, our people were in high fpirits, and not a little
troublefomc t but at this time wc had an accident
which gave us fome concern. William Walter, a
quarter gunner, was lining aflccp with a pipe in his
mouth, and fell overboard ; when, nntwithnanding all
peflibic means were ufcd to fave him, he was never
fcen more. This unfortunate man was a very good,
feacnan, and univerfally refpedled by the officers and all
on board.
OnMonday the I oth of February, at . p, .^
fix o'clock, A. M.wc came in fight of ^' "' •'"'*•
the coaft of Africa, in latitude 34 dra. 1$ min. fouth,
and in 31 deg. 4$ min. eftfl longitude. On the 12th,
at three P. M. ^c made land to the eallwai'd of Cape
d'Aguila^,
CoMMODOiit BVRON'i VOYAGE— for making DU'covcrJei to the SouTMsaN Ociax.^c. a.n
1766.
lin. fouth,
Ithc 1 2th,
1 of CajK
i'Aguilas
d'Asuilai. but had comrary wiiwl* for fcveral davi
fqShcr. From henr « the coalJ lie. VV. N. W. to t^c
Cape of Gootl Hope, diftam about 30 Icaipici. ()n the
I ith. we pafTed between Penipiln llland and Oreen
litch ftiipa and Indlamcn, bound for
lurope: In thii bay the S. E, wind blew fo ftrong. ai
to oblige ui to lie with our yardi and top-maft« ftruck 1
andltwa* fometimci with the greateft difficulty that
our boat* rca'-hed the (hore, through the violmce of the
fqualls. whin at particular timea are here fo great, at
to drive fl»ip» fron» their anchor* out to fca. On o«jr
entering the bay we faluted the fort, which compliment
watidimediatcly returned 1 and on Friday the 14th, the
Commodore waited upon the governor, who fent hi*
coach and fix to the water, fldc to receive him. The
Cape i» a moft excellent place for ftiip* to touch at 1
it it a healthy climate, a rtne country, and abounda with
rcfrefhmcnw of every kind. The i ompany'i garden it
a delightful foot, and at the end of it it a paddock be-
longing to tne governor, in which are kept a great
number of very curious animalt 1 among other* were
three tine oftrichet, and four zebrai of an uncommon
fi7.e. The fquare, in which the old governor livet, it
encompaflcd by many other grand buildings, bclkltt
what is appropriated to the ufe of thai great orticer, who
here appears with the dignity of a prince. Our Com-
modore during his ftav, refided in ahoufe adjoining to
the govcmor's, where he had a xntinal always at the
door, and a fencant who atten' -d hii' whenever he
went abrrod. In the middle o( ':his fquare is a very
fine foimtain, which fupplies thi greatcit part «.f the
town with water. The officera of both '>iips r -dcd
chiefly at Mr. Prince's, and as for a long time v.e had
enjoyed no recreation, we now f^-.-nt our ti' c very
agreeably. The people alfo on board hac^ all leave to
g») on (hore by turns, and they always contrived to get
completely drunk with cape wine before they returnee
This was chiefly owing to the civility of the inhabifants,
whoai they depend on the foreign (hips who u-ut ' here,
think it their intcreft to behave with go » J ma ng hair. The bul-
locks are large, and ufed for the inoft part in teams,
for which they arc preferred to horfes ; eight or ten of
them being harneiTcd together, and conduAed by a
(lave, who goes before to guide them. The horfct are
iinall, but very fpiritcd : an'i we were told an odd cir-
ciiindance concerning them. ' .> h is, that they are never
known to lie down but v..:: ck, and that this is an
infallible fign by which their owners know when they
are out of order.
With refpcct to the country in general, it is fituatcd
in35 deg. of fouth k..Liide,and in a temperate climate,
where the extreme"- .>f heat and cold arc equally un-
known. It al . u ids with the moil beautiful landdapes,
the (kirts effhc mountains being interfperfed with lofty
groves of the fined trees, and the valleys and plains con-
ViR of deluhtful meadow lands, adorned with a variety
of the rooff beautiful flowers, that fill the air with their
fragrance. The land alfo produces the fineft vegetable
Erodudlions, and thericheh fruits, while mo(\ of thofe
rought from the Eaft and Wed Indies, fiouridi here
as well as in their native foil. One of the moft beauti-
ful, and a native, is the aloe, of which arc many fora,
fcen not only in the gardens of the company, but in the
clefts of the rocks, and, it it faid, that throughout the
year, one fort or other is continually in bloom. The Indian
gold-tree islikewifca remarkable curiofity.havinggold.
coloured lcave9lpe<;kled witb red, with fmall grcenifh
4
blonbm*. Ilereare alfo numbers of quince-trees, whofc
fruit is faid to be nut only larger, but belter than the
quinces of any other country in the known woild. I'hc
Dutch have difcovered fcveral excellent methods of
prefcrvina them, and not only make great quantities of
mannalaae for their own ufe, but fell it to the (hipa
that touch here for refrcdiments. No country abound*
with a greater variety of animals. Among the wild
bea(\t H re the elephant, the rhinoceros, and the buft'alo,
with iiocM, tygers, leopards, wolves, wild dogs, porcii •
pines, elks, ham, goats of various kinds, wild horfes,
the lebra, and many othen. Among the moO extraor-
dinary of thefc iaa fmall animal, fooKwhat larger than
a fquirrel, with a head that has fome refemblance to
that of a bear. It is called a rattlcmoufe, from its
frequently nuking a rattling noife with its tail. This
it nehher very hairy, nor very kmg. Its back is of a
liver colour, and us fides nearly olack. It purs like
a cat, and lives fur the moft part on trees, leaping like
a fquirrel from one tree to another, feeding upon acorns,
nuts, and the like. The feathered trilx are no Icfs
numerous 1 for befides many of thofe known in Europe,
here are olirichet much larger than thofe we law in the
ftraits of Magellan, flamingoes, fpoon-bills, blue-birds,
Sreen-peaks, the long-tongue and many others. The
amingo is larger than a fwan, and a very ftately bird.
Both the head and neck are as white as inow, and the
latter is conliderably longer than that of a fwan. The
bill is very broad, and black at the point, and the reft
of it of a deep blue. The upper part of the wing-
feathers are of a flame colour, and the lower black 1
but the legs, which are much longer than thofe of a
ftork, are of an orange colour, ana the f2et refcmble
thofe of a ooofe. Though th. y live upon fifti, their
flefti is both wholefome, and well ufted. The green-
peak is -U over green, except two red fpots, one on itf
reaft, M.A another on its head, and is a very beautiful
'tird. K feeds on infeds, which it picks out of the
I Ark of trees. The long-tongue is aoout the fize oi
a bull-flneti, and his tongue is not only very long, but
faid to I J)s hard as iron, and the end as ftiarp as the
point O'^ needle t thia being a weapon given it by
the authtn- of natu'e for its prciervation. The feathers
on the bcllv are yelk^w, and the reft fpecklcd. At the
Cape are alfo many < excellent fifti, a confiderable
number of which arc comnwn in Europe, and others
pediliar to thefe feu. The reptiles and inleifls are
likewife extremely numerous, and among thefe are a
variety of ferpents, fcorpions, and . fome centipedti.
Thus to counterbalance the advantage this country
affords, from the abundance of ufeful animals, there arc
alfo thrown into the fcale many that arc prejudicial and
extremely dangerous ; as if it was intended to (hew to
man, that amidft the greateft bleftiiigs and advantages
beftowed on one of the moft enchanting fpots in
the univerfe, it was necefTary to mix a certain pro-
portion of evil, to reduce it more to a level with thofe
countries that are in fome refpedb left defirable.
Both our (hip and the Tamar by this time had re-
ceived a frefh fupply of wood, water, and all neccflary
ftorcs, and being completely fitted for failing to our
native country, on Thurfday the 6th of March, our
Commodore took leave of the good old governor, and
the next day we got under way, and failed with a fine
breeze at S. E. On Sunday the i6th, at (ix o'clock,
A. M. we faw the rocks off the ifland of St. Helena,
bearing W. by N. dillant about eight leagues 1 and at
9oon, in 8 deg. 16 min. fouth latitude, we oibfcrved a
ftrange fail which hoifted French colours, but in the
evening ran her out of fight. We purfued our courTe
without any thing material occurring till tlie soch,-
when we were alarmed by the (hip's running foul of a
whale or grampus, on which (he ftruck her head, and
then her urbetrd bow. This put the Commodore and
officers in no fmall conltcination, left the Dolphin
(hould have fufl^ered from t ' olence of the ihOck,
as we were at that time runm .1 the rate of iix knota
an hour; however we found tiie (hock, though a rude
one, auended with no bad confeqilence. We perceived
the fea near the place vvhere the jbip ftrucx, tilled
ttiOl
:\ I', I
1 ' t';,
ii i
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'M
:a5«
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complete.
Ir
I
w ith blooj, by which wc fuppofed the whale was killed,
or at lean deeply wounded. On TucfdAy the 15th, we
croflcd the equator, in longitude 17 dr|^. 10 tnin. and
the next morning Captain Gumming of the I'imar,
made the fignal to bring to, and cameon board the Dol-
phin to inrorm the Comniadore, that the rudder braces
were broke from the ftem>poft, whereby the rudder waa
rendered intirel/ ufclefi: upon which the Corannodore
Cent his carpenter with aflmants on board the Tanuir,
who went to work upon a machine after the model of
that which had been fixed to the Ipfwichv and Gntfton,
e;u:h of which (hips, at dificrent tiinea, fteercd home
from Lpuilbourg by the help of fuch a (tibftitute for a
rudder. This machine was completed in about iix days,
and received fomc improvements from the ingenuity of
the conltrudor : but it was thought better to fend the
Tamar to Antigua, in order to rent; accordingly on the
til of April, the Tdmarpartcd company with the Dol-
phin, fleering for the Caribbee iflands. In their paf-
fage they found the difference of failing with: the ma-
chine, to be only about five miles in forty-eight hours.
After the departure of the Tamar, which was the firft
time of our being feparatod wholly from her iincc our
leaving England, and in latitude 34 deg. ndith, longi-
tude 3 5 deg. well, wc had a nH>ft violent gale of wind,
which drove us to the northward of the weftem iflands,
and into latitude 48 deg. north, longitude 14 deg. weft.
Wc came within two hundred leagues of the land, and
fpokcwith fevcral (hips lately from England, who gave
us very erroneous accounts of the bearing of the coafl.
We had now a (Irong eaflerly wind, which lafled feveral
days, and the weather appeared to us piercing cold,
from our iiaving uecn, during fo long a time, ufed to a
warm clinuue. However, wc at laft had a favourable
wind, and on Thurfday, the 7th of May, faw the illand
^ of Sciliy. On the 9th, in the morning, we arrived in
the Downs, where wccaft anchor > having been nine
weeks' running from the Cape of Good Hope, and
fumewh^t more than two and twenty months in the cir-
cumnavigation of the globe.
Thus ended a voyage, originally planned by his Ma-
jefty, George the Third, and which produced thedif-
covery of tnofe idands, that have lately engrofltKl the
attention of the public. We have endeavourcoto defcribe
them, and our courfes with accuracy, and with truth
and authenticity, that mightJufUy be exp«fled from one
who faw every i;hing of which we have given a defcrip.
tion. By the afTiflance of divine providence, and the
tcndrrnefs of our excellent Commodore, in caufing the
crews to be fcrved with portable foup, and with the
' greated humanity diftributing prpvifions to the fick
j from his own table, that dreadful difeafe the fcurvy was
rendered Icfs inveterate andi fatal ; and we loft, including
thole who were drowned, a verv inconlidetable number
of men. a number fo inconfldcrablc, that it is highly
probable, more of them would nave died, in the courle
of a year, had they llaid on (hore. From our arrival
at Spithead, till our leaving the fhip in the river, no
boats were fuffered to come on bqard us, nor any anfwera
to be given to enquirers, with refped to who we were,
or from what port wc were come, Ca that a variety of
conjediures were formed as to our late voya^. After
having waited a few days, each man, according to the
pronufe of the Commodore, received double pay for his
' fervices, and had an opportunity of enjoying thofecomv
forts, which we, afceranab^nceof twenty-two months
from our native country, might be fuppofed ardently to
wiflifor.
A NEW, ACCURATE, GENUINE and COMPLETE HISTORY of
A VOYAGE Round the WORLD,
PERFORIVIED
By Captain SAMUfiL W ALUS, Efq.
In his MAJESTY'S Ship the DOLPHIN;
Having under his Command the Swallow iStoop and Princb Frederic Store-Ship,
of which Mr. CARTERET and Lieuteitant BRINE were appointed Mailers:
1
UNDERTAKEN PARTICULARLY
With a view to make Difcoveri^s in the SOUTH SEAS.
Which remarkable circuit of the Globewas hemai on Friday, the 22nd of August 1766, and
rompletedon Friday the 20th of May 1708, containing a Period of 637 Days, and included
in the Years 1766, 1767, and 1768. j
i N T R O D iU C T I O N.
NEVER was there perhaps colleded together in any
language, a more copious fund of rational enter-
tainment than will be found in this comprehcnflve and
complete work, of which the prefcnt voyage ii a part.
To trace the progrefs of the difcoveries that have fuc-
cefTiVf^y been made, in pfling rouiid .the globe, mufl
fill the /eadcrs mind with fuch a virictjt of new infor-
mation, a> cannot fiiil to raife hit wonider, and cnteruin
him with ineiprelTiblc delight. In the courfe of this
>f^, to be made ac-
quainted with the genius, the arts, the various purfuits,
the cudoms, the manners, the religious notions, the dif-
tiniflions of rank, and the fubordination that is to be
met with among the people of various iflands and coun-
tries, diftind from each other, and from us, in language,
habits, learning, and ways of living. Who can read
of the poverty and mifcry of the wretched inhabitants
of Terra del Fuego, who have nothing but the fl
mand, whofe mailer was lieutenant Brine.
On the 1 9th of June, Capuin Wallis, having received
his commillion, went on board the Dolphin, and the
fame day hoifted the broad pendant, and began to enter
feamcn ; but agreeable to his orders, he took no boys
either for himlcif or any of his officers. The Dolphin
being now Htted for her intended voyage, the articles
of war, and the adl of parliament were read on board.
On the 26th of July, flic failed down the river, and on
Saturday the i6th of Augud, at eight o'clock, A. M.
anchored in Plymouth Sound. On Tuefday the 19th,
Captain Wallis received his failing orders, with inllruc-
tions refpecting the Swallow Sloop, and the Prince Fre-
derick florefliip ; and this day we took on board 3000
u'cight of ^rtable foup, and a bale of cork Jackets.
Every part of the fliip was filled with (tores of various
kinds, even to the flcerage and ilate room ; and an ex-
traordinary quantity of medicines being provided by
the furgeon, which confided of three large boxes, and
thefe were put into the Captain's cabbin.
On Friday the 22nd, at four o'clock, A. M. the
Dolphin, (on board of which was our journalid) de-
parted from Plymouth, in company with the Swallow
and Prince Frederick ; and too foon, to our mortifica-
tion, we found the Swallow to be a very heavy failor.
On Sunday the 7th of September, we had a view of
the iiland of Porto Santo, due well, and near noon
came in light of the call end of the ifland of Madeira,
.^t five we ran between this and the Deferters, and at
fix anchored in Madeira Roa««, about a mile from the
ihorc, in 24 fathoms water, with a muddy bottom.
About eight the Swallow and Prince Frederick canK
alfo to an anchor. I'hc next morning we faluted the
governor with 13 guns, and the compliment was re-
turned with an equal number. We failed fiom hence
on the 1 2th, after having taken in beef, wine, and a
large quantity of onions, as fea-ftores. On the i6th,
when oti the ifland of Palma, failing at the rate of eight
miles an hour, the wind ftiddcnly died away, and for two
minutes the velFcl had no motion, though wc were at
lead four leagues dillan' from the flwrc ; and we found
the fliip 1 5 miles to the fouthward of her reckoning.
Saturday the aoth, we caught eight bonettas, out of a
great number which furrounded the fliip, and this day
we faw two herons flying to the eaflward. The Swallow
parted from us in the night, between the 21 fl and 22nd,
and on Tuefday the 23rd, at noon, the ncarelt land of
the ifland of Bonavifla bore from S. to W. S. W. and
the eafl-cnd bore at the lame time well, diflant two
leagues. We now thought it neccflary to found, and
had only 15 fathoms, rocky ground; at the fame time
we perceived a great rippling, occalioned, as we fap-
pofcd, by a reel; alfo breakers without us, diflant about
one league in the dircdion of S. E. We fleered between
the rippling and the breaken, and the frince Frede-
rick paired^very near the laft, in the S. E. but had no
foundings ;" yet thefe breaktn are thought to bf dan-
gerous. On Wedncfday the 24th, at fix o'clock, A M.
the iflc of May bore W. S. W. diflant fix leagues , and
foon after our confort, the Swallow, joined company
again. At ten o'clock the weft end oi the ifland of
May, one of the Cape de Verd Iflands, bore north, dif-
unt five miles ; and at noon the fouth end of St.
Jago bore S. W. by W. diflant four leagues. Between
thefe two places we found a current, fetting to the fouth-
ward, at the rate of 20 miles in 24 hours. At near four
o'clock, P. M. we caft anchor in Port Praya, in com-
pany with the Swallow, and Prinoe Frederick, in eight
tathoms water, upon fandy ground. During the night
we had much rain and lightning. On the 25th, we
obtained leave from the commanding officer at the fortj
to get water and other neccflaries. Thi.ofcd to be a prayer ; for he nuny times
lifted up his hands and eyes to the heavens, and fpoke
in a manner and tone very different from what we had
obfervcd in the converfation of his countrymen. His
oraifon feemed to be rather fung than faid, and we
found it impoHiblc to diiHnguith one word from ano-
ther. When the Capuin intimated that it was time
for him to go into the Ixxit, he looked up at the fun,
then moved his hand round to the weltem horizon,
paufed, laughed, and pointed to the (hore, by which
atflions, we eafily underAood, that he petitioned to (lay
on board till evening : and wc took no linle pains to
convince him, that wc could not continue fo long upon
that part of the coad. At length, however, we prevailed
upon him to go over the (hip's (ide with his companion,
and as foon as the boat put off, they all began to fing,
not ceafing till they reached the (hore, where many of
their companions prefled eagerly to lie taken into the
boat, and were highly a.fronted at Ixing refufed. Be-
fore our departure we founded the ihoal, that runs out
from the ix>int, and found it about three miles broad
from N. to S. and to avoid the fame it is necelTary to
keep four miles off the Cape, in i^ fathoms water. The
fignal was now node for weighing, and at the fame
tiitie the Swullow received orders to lead/and the Prince
Frederick to bring up the rear. The wind bcin^
againll ui, and blowing frelh, we turned into the Strait
of Magellan, with the flood tide, between Cape Virgin
Mary and the Sandy Point that refemblei Dungenefs.
At tlK diftance of two leagues, weft of Dungends, wc
fell in with a (hoal, upon which, at half fkxxJ, we had
but feven fathoms water. Between eight and nine
o'clock in the evening, we came to an anchor, one
league from the (hore, in 30 fiithom,' with a muddy
bottom: Cape Virgin Mary bearing N. E, by E- Half
E. Point Boffetrmn W. half S. didant five leagues.
When abread of the Sandy Point, we faw many people
on horfeback hunting the guanicoes, which ran up the
country with prodigious fwiftnefs. The natives lighted
fires oppolite the (hips, and about 400 of them, with
their horfes feeding near them, were obfervcd encamped
in a fine green valley. The guanicoes were purfued by
the hunters, with (lings in their hands ready for the
cad i but not one of them was taken while they ui-re
within the reach of our fight. This being the fpoi
where Commodore Byron faw the Patagonians, on
the 1 8th, a party with fome officers were lent towards
the (hore, but with orders not to land, as the (hips were
too far off to adid them in cafe of neccHity. When
they came near the land, many of the natives flocked
to fee them, among whom m ere women and children,!
and fome of the very men we had feen in the morning
of the preceding day. Thefe waded towards the boat,
frequently calling out, " Englidimen come on (hore,"
and were with dimculty redrained from getting into the
boat, when they found our people would not land.
Some bread, tobacco, and toys were didributed among
them, but not an article of provifions could be ob-
tained in return. We had got under fail about fix
o'clock, A. M. and at noon there being little Wind, and
the ebb running with grrat force, the .Swallow, who was
a-head, made the fignal and came to an anchor j upon
which we did the fame, and fo did the dore-fliip which
was a-dern.
On Friday the 19th, at fix o'clock, A. M. we
weighed, the Swallow being a-hcad, and at noon wc
anchored in PofTeffion Bay, having 12 fathoms water,
bottom a clean fand. Point Poircflion bore ead didant
three leag^ps : the Aflcs Ears wed ; and the entrance
of the NarrowsS. W. half W. Upon the point we faw
a great number of Indians, and at night, large fires on
the (hore of Terra del Fuego. From this day to the
22nd, we made but little way, having flrong gales and
heavy fcas. We now anchored in 1 8 fathoms, muddy
bottom. The AlTes Ears bore N. W. by W. half W.
Point PofFefnon N. !•". by E. and the point of the Nar-
rows, on the fouth-Lide, S. S. W. didant nearly four
leagues. In this (ituation, we found, by obfervation,
our latitude to be 52 deg. 30 min. fouth, and our longi-
tude 70 deg. 30 min weft. On the 23rd, wc got under
way and made fail, but the tide was to drong, that the
Swallow was fct one way, the Dolphin another, and the
Pnnce Frederick a thiid. Wc had a fredi breeze,
ncverthelefs not one of the vcfTels would anfwer her
helm. However wc entered the fird narrow ; and at
fix o'clock in the evening, we anchored on the fouth-
(hore, the Swallow on the north, and the dore-(hip not
a cable's length from a fand-bank, about two miles to
the eadward. The drait here is only a league wide,
and, at midnight, the tide being flack, we weighed and
towed the diip through. On Wednefday the 24th, we
dcered from the fird narrow to the fecond, S. W. and,
at eight, A. M^ we anchored two leagues from the (hore.
Cape Gregory bearing W. half N, and Swcepdakcs
Foreland S. W. half W, On Thurfday the 2sth, we
failed through the fecond narrow. In our run through
this part ofthe drait we had 1 2 fiithoms within half a
mile of the (hore. At five o'clock in the evening, the
Dolphin fuddcniy (hoalcd from 1 7 to 5 fathoms, St.
Bartholomew's Iffand then bearing S. half W. dillant
four miles, and Elizabeth's Ifland, S. S. W. half W.
didant fix miiei. The weather being tempedpous and
rainy, at eight o'clock in the evening, wc cad anchor
under Elizabeth's Iflahd ; whereon wc found great
quantities of wild celery, which being boiled with
portable foup and wheat, the crews breakfaded on it
every morning for feveral days. On this ifland we ob-
fervcd feveralhuts, and places where fires had been re-
ccntly made, but none of the natives. We alfo faw
two dogs, «nd trefli fliclh of mufcles and limpets (cat-
tered
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Captain WALLIS's VOYAGE— for making Difcoverics in the Soutmihn Ocean, &:c. 257
.MM^U'..
'*^.>
H»-..
tered about. The wigwams confifted of younj; trees,
which, being (harpencd at one end. and thrtiA into the
ground, in fuch a manner as to form a circle, the other
ends were brought to meet, and fadened together at
the top. We (hw likewife man^ high mountains, which,
though the midd of fummer m this part of the world,
had their fummitt covered with fnow ; but about three
parts of their height they were covered with wood, and
above with herbage, excq>t where the fnoMr was not yet
melted. On Friday the 26th, at two o'clock, A. M.
we weighed ; and at five, being midway between Eli-
zabeth's Ifland, and St. George's, we (truck the ground,
but the next cad had no bottom with so fathoms. The
Prince Frederick, who was about half a league to the
ibuthward of us, had for a conliderable time not feven
fathoms : the Swallow which was two or three miles to
the fouthward had deep water, for (he kept near St.
George's Ifland. We thmk it is fafeft to run down from
the north-end of Elizabeth's Ifland, about two or three
miles from the fliore, and fb on all the way to Port
Famine. At noon, being three miles from the north-
fliore, we found bv obfervationour latitude to be 53 deg.
II min. fouth, longitude 71 deg. 20 min. wefl, from
London. About four o'clock, we anchored in Port
Famine Bay, and with all the boats out, towed in r'.ic
Swallow and Store-fliip. On the 27th, the fick were
lent on fliore. where a tent was ereded for their recep-
tion, as was another for the accommodation of the
fail-makers, and thofc who landed to get wood. This
day, the weather being fqually, we warped the fliip far-
ther into the harbour, and moored her with a cable each
way in nine fathoms. Cape St. Anne now bore N. E.
by E. diflant one mile, and Sedger River S. half W,
On Sunday the a 8th, all the fails were unbent and fent
on fliore to be repairrd j the empty calks were alfo
landed, with the coopers to trim them, and ten men
towafli and fill them. We alfo hauled the feine, and
caught plenty of fifli rcfembling mullets, but the flefli
vras very foft ; and among others were fmclts, fome of
which weighed a pound and a half, and were 20 inches
long. Indeed all the time of our flay at this ph.ce. we
caught fifli cnouch to furnifli one meal a day both for
the lick and the healthy : we gathered alfo great plenty
of celery, and pea-tops, which were boiled with the
pcafe and portable foup : befldes thefe we found fruit
that refembles cranberries, and the leaves of a flirub
(bmewhat like our thorn, which were remarkably four.
When we arrived here, many of our people had the
fcurvy to a great degree ; but by the plentiful ufe of
vegetables, and bathmg in the lea, within a fortnight
there was not a fcorbutic perfon in either of the fliips.
Their recovery alfo was greatly promoted by the land
air, and by beingobltged towafli their apparel, and keep
their pcrfons clean. All hands were now employed in
repairing the fliip and making her ready for the fea.
To this end the Jorge was fet up on fliore ; and in the
meantime a confldcrable quantity of wood was cut, and
put on board the ftore-fliip ; and thoufands of young
trees were carefully token up with the mould about
them, to be carried to Falkland's Iflands, which pro-
duce no timber. The Prince Frederick received orders
to deliver thefe to the commanding officer at Port
Egmont. and to (ail to that place with the (irft fair
wind.'
A. D.^ 1 767 ^" Wedncfday the 1 4th of January, the
'" nufler of the cutter, which was vidualed
for a week, was fent to look out for anchoring places
on the iiorth-fliore of the ftrait 5 and this day we got
all ourpeoplc and tents on board, having token in 75
tons of water, and 12 months of ptovifions for ourfclves,
and- ten months for the Swallow, from on board the
ftore-Oiip. On the 17th, the maftcr of our cutter re-
turned with an account, that lie had found anchoring
£*"?•»,*«* this day the Prince Frederick failed for
Falkland's Iflaads. The mailer reported, that between
*^ *« '•y ■«* C»pe Forward, he had been on fliore
«t bur placet, where was good anchorage, and plenty
of wood and water ckife to the beach, with abundance
•fcnnbemea and wUd celery : that he had alfo feen a
fiw numb* af cummt bufhcs fall of fruit, and a
variety of beautiful flirubs in full bloIToni, bclidt., Prcat
plenty of winter's bark, a grateful fpice, which we have
already particularly dcfcribed. On Sunday the i8th,
at five o'clock, A. M, we failed i and at noon, obforved
in latitude 54 deg. 3 min. fouth; here we found the
ftrait to be two leagues wide. On the 19th, we came
to an anchor, half a mile from the fliore, near Cape
Holland, oppofite a current of frelh water, that fails
rapidly from the mountains. Cai^e Holland bore
W. S. W. half W. diflant two miles ; Cape Forward
eafl ; and bv obfervation our latitude was 53 deg.
3 8 min. fouth. As a more convenient anchoring place,
and better adapted for procuring wood and water, had
been difcovered, we made fail on the 22nd, and at
nine in the evening, being about two miles diflant from
the fliore, Cape Gallant bore W. half N. diflant two
leagues ; Cape Holland E. by N. fix leagues ; and Ru-
pert's Ifland W. S. W. At this place the flrait is not
more than five miles over.
On Fridaj^ the 23rd, we came to an anchor in a bay
near Cape Gallant, in 10 fathoms water, a muddy bot-
tom. The boats being fent out to found found good
anchorage every where, except within two cables length
S. W. of the (hip, where it was coral, and deepcneifto
16 fathoms. In this fituation the caft point of Cape
Gallant bore S. W. by W. one fourth W. the extreme
point of the caflcrmoflland E. byS. a point making
the mouth of a river N. by W. and the white patch on
ChaHes's Ifland S. W. We now examined the bay and
a large lagoon. The la(t was the moft commodious
harbour we had yet feen, having five fathom at the
entrance, and four to five in the middle. It is capable
of receiving a great number of vcfltls, had three large
frefli water rivers, and plenty of wood and celery. We
had here a feine fpoiled, by being entangled with the
wood that lies funk at the mouth of the rivers; but
though we oaught not much fifti, we had wild ducks
in fuch numbers as to afford us a very fcafonable re-
lief. Near this place are very high mountains, one of
which was climbed by the matter of our cutter, with
the hope of gctdnga viewof the South Sea ; but, being
difappointed in his expeifUtion, he ereded a pyramid,
and having written the (hip's name, and the date of the
year, he left the fame, with a fliilling, within the ftmc-
ture. On the 24th, in the morning, we examined
Cordes Bay, which we found much inferior to that in
which the ftiips lay, the entrance being rocky, and
the ground within it foul. It had, it is true, a more
fpacious lagoon, but the mouth of it was very
narrow, and barred by a flioal, whereon was not M-
ficient depth of water for t fliip of burden to float.
Here we faw an animal that refembled an afs ; as fwift
as a deer, and had a cloven hoof. This was the fiift
animal we had feen in this ftrait, except at the entrance,
where we found the guanicoes, and two dogs. The
circumjacent country has a dreary and forbidding
afpeft. The mountoins on both fides are of a ftupcnd-
ous height; whofe lower parts are covered with trees
above which a fpace is occupied by weathered ftinibsl
higher up are fragments of broken rocks and heaps of
fnow ; and the tops are tottlly rude, naked, and defolate.
To fee their fummits towering above the clouds in valt
crags, that are piled upon each other, affords to a fpcc-
tator the idea, that they are the ruins of nature, devoted
to everiafting ftcrility and dcfolation. This day we
founded about the Royal Iflands, but found no bottom •
wherever we came to an opening, we found a lapid tide
fet through ; and they cannot be approached by fliip-
pmg witTiout the moft imminent danger. And here,
tor the information of future navigators, we would ok!
ferve. that in a run through this part of the ftrait. they
ftiould keep the north-flwre clofc on board all the way
and not venture more than a mile from it till the Royal
Iflands are pafTed. Through the whole day the cur-
rent lets eafterly, and the indraught fliould by all means
be avoided.
On Tuefday the 27th, we weighed with all expedi-
tion, and departed from Cape Gallant Road, which
lies in C3 deg. 50 min. fouth latitude. At noon on the
aSth, the weft-point bore W. N. W. half a mile dif-
3T tarn.
^
wri
ifcilJ
'8f
tr-
J'
'U
¥
M'H
858
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD CompleYe.
Unt. At two o'clock, the weft point bore cad, dilUnt
three leagues, and York Point W. N. W. didaitt Hve
Icagiicii. Ac five, we opened York Road, the point
bearing N. W. dillant halt'a milci at which lime the
Dolphin wai taken a>back, and a (Ireng current with a
heavy fquall drove usfofiir to leeward, that it was with
great dilUculty wc gut into Elizabeth's Bay, and an-
chored in 1 2 fathoms m atcr, near a river. The Swallow
being at anchor oft' the point of the bay, and very near
the rocks. Captain W'allis ordered out all the boau with
anchors and haulers to her ainilancc, and the was hap-
pily warped to windward in'o good anchorage. At
this time York Point bore W. by N. A Ihoal with
weeds upon it, at thcdiflanceof a cable's length, W.N.
W. Point Pallagc S. 1£. half E. dillant half a mile ;
a rock near Rupert's lilc S. half E. and a rivulet on the
bay N. E. by E. dillant about three cables length.
Having thisd.iyat fun-fct feenagreat fmoke on the
fouthcrn lliorc, and on Prince Rupert's Illand, early in
the morning of the igih, the boats were fcnt on Ihort
for water. Our people had no foonei landed, than
feveral of the natives came otf to them in three canoes ;
and having advanced towards the failors, made ligns of
friendlliip, w hich being anfwcred to their fatistiidion,
they hallooed, and our men Ihouted in return. When
the Indians drew near th y were eating the flefli of
fcals raw, and w ere covered with the Ikins, which lUmk
intolerably. I'hcy had bows, arrows, and javelins, the
two laltot v.fcicli were pointed with flint. Thili: peo-
ple were of a midJling Itattire, thetalleft of thcin not
exceeding live feet Six inches, i'licir complexion «a<
of a '.Icep copper colour. Three of them beinn ad-
mitted on board the Dolphin, they devoured whatever
food was olfcred them ; but like the Patagonians would
only drink water; like ihcjr too, they were highly di-
verted with a lookiiig (-ilufs, v\ «hich they at (irll Itared
with artonilhmenc; but 'nviug become a little more
familiar with it, liicy l",!r' J ai u., i_.rect; and lindinga
correfponding fmilc i.. \< !i._ ii,ijj;c in the glafs, they
burft into immodcraLt !: ^ olLmghter. The Captain
going on Ihore with them, prLleiucd fome trinkets to
their wives ami children, and received in return fome
of their weapons, and pieces of mundic, of the kind
found in the tin mines ot Cornwall. The fails of the
canoes bclon^'iiigto thefe Indians were made of the feal
fkin. To kindle a lire they ftrikc a pebble agiiinll a
piece of mundic, holding under it, to catch the fparks,
fome mofs or down, mixed with a whitifh earth, which
takes fire like tinder: they then take fome dry grafs,
and putting the lighted nu)fs into it, wave it to and fro,
and in a minute it blazes. When they left us, they
(leered for the fouthern fliore, where we faw many of
their huts ; and we remarked, that not one of them
luokcd bi-hind, either at us or the (hip, fo little im-
prell'ion had the curiofities they had feen made upon
their minds. As this feems to be the moft dreary and
inhofpitable country in the world, not excepting the
word parts of Sweden and Norway, fo the natives feem
to be the lowed and mod deplorable of all human be-
ings. Their perfect indifference to every thing they
faw, which marked the difparity between our (late and
their own, though it may prcfervc them from the regret
and anguilh of unfatisfied defires, feems, notwithdand-
ing, to imply a detcdl in their nature; for thofc who
are fatisfitd with the gratifications of a brute, can have
little preteniion to the prerogatives of men. Thefe
Indians when they gave to the gentlemen of our (hip
feveral pieces of mundic, intimated, that this fubllance
was found in the mountains, and Capuin Wallis is of
opinion, that not only mines of tin, but more valuable
metals arc fu'ufiiling there.
On Tuefday tne jrd of February, wc weighed, and,
in a fudden fquall, were taken a-back, fo that both (hips
were in the moll imminent danger of bcine driven
afhore on a reef of rocks ; the wind, however, fuddcniy
(hifting, we got oflP without much damage. At (ive
o'clock, P. M. we anchored in York Road, Cape Quod
now bore W. half S. dillant fix leagues ; York Point
E. S. E. didant one milc; Bachelor's River N. N. W.
three fourths of a milc ; the entrance of Jerom't Sound
3
N. W. by W. and a fmall illand, on the fouth iliorc,
W. by S. In the evening we faw live Indian canoct
come out of BaLhelur'., River, and go up Jetom's Sound. .
Having fcnt out the boats, in the morning of the 4th,
wc were inforn\cd on their return, that there was |;our power
to keep the Ihip deady, and as the cables did not
part, we were again wonderfully prefervcd, which, con-
lidering the narnownefs of the (Irait, and the fmallneft
of the bay in which wc were ftationcdi might in th«i
judgment
Captain WALLIS's VOYAGE — for making Difcovrrics in the Southern Ocean, &r. 259
judgment of human wililoin be thought iiupolliljlc- :
for nad the cablci parted, wc could not have run out
with a fail, and not naving room to bring the Ihip up
with any other anchor, wc mul^ without divine aid nuvc
been daflicd topiecei in a few minute. ; ami under fuch
circumnanccs it ii highly probable, that every foul
would immediately have pcrilhed. liy eight o'clock
in the evening the gale occanu- more ilHKlerate, and
gradually dccrcafed durin).r the night. On the 2 lit,
wc had the fuiiiiaiiUon to /ind that our cable was found,
but our haufcrs were much rubbed by the rocks. Aa
to the Swallow, the (lorm had little aU'eCtcd her j but
two (lays before fhc had v( r; near been loll by the ra-
pidity of the tide, in pudiii.'; through the illands. An
altccatioii had been made in her rudder, neverthclefs
flic Ikered and worked fo ill, that it was apprehended
(he could not faiely be brought to an anchor again.
Her commander was of opinion, that Ihe could be of
very liltle fervice to the expedition, and theicfore re-
quellcd of Captain VVallis to direct what he thought
bed for the f ;rvice. The captain returned for anfwer,
•' That as the Lords of ihir Admiralty had appointed
her to accompany the LXilphin, flic mull continue to do
it as long as it was polTible j that as' her condition ren-
dered her a bad I'ailer, he would wait her time, and at-
tend her motions; and that if any difalUr ftiould happen
to cither of us, the other fliould be ready to alford luch
allilbnce as might be in her power." In this bay wc
remained eight days, taking in wood and water, and
repairing the little damage we had fullained in the late
florm. We caught lilh of various kinds, among which
were miifcles near fix inches long ; alfo a fine hrin red
filh, not unlike a gurnet, molt of which were from
four to live pounds weight. I'he mountains in this
neighbourhood have a niofl rugged and defulate ap-
pearance t but their height could not be afcertaimd,
their heads being loll in the clouds ; and fome of them,
on the fouthern (liore, were fo naked, as not to have
upon them a iingle blade ofgrafs. Our mafler having
been fent out in fearch of anchor.ige, landed upon a
large illand on the north-lideofSnow Sound, and being
almofl perillu'd with cold, the tirll thing he did was to
make a large lire w ith fome trees which he found upon
the fpot. 1 le then climbed one of the rocky mountains,
with Mr. Fickerlgill a midfliipman, and one of the
feamcn, in order to take a view of the flrait, and the
difmal regions that furround it. He obferved the
entrance of the found to be full as broad its feveral parts
of the ftrait, and to grow but very little narrower on
Terra del Fuego (ide. The country on the fouth, he
faid, was more dreary and horrid than any he had yet
feen : the mountains hid their heads in the clouds;
while the valleys were equally barren, being intirely
covered with fnow, except where it had been waihcd
away, or converteil into ice 1 and even thefe bald patches
were as dellitute of verdure as the rocks between w hich
they lay.
Sunday the 1 ft of March, at four o'clock, A. M. our
companion, the Swallow, was feen under fail, on the
north fliorc of Cape Quod. At fcvcn we fet fail, and
ftood out of Butler's Bay ; and at noon fent the boats
to feek for anchor.ige on the north Ihorc. Cape
Notch now bore W. by N. half N. diftant four leagues,
and Cape Quod E. half N. diftant three leagues.
At three o'clock, P. M. we anchored in a finall bay,
which wc named Lion's Cove, on account of a fteep
rocky mountain, the top whereof rcfembles the head of
a lion. On the 2nd, wc made fail again, and at five in
the evening came to anchor in Good Luck Bay, in 28
fathoms water. A rocky ifland, at the wcftern extre-
mitf of the bay, bore N. W. by W. about a cable's
length and a half from the Dolphin ; and a low point
which forms the eallcrn extremity of the bay, bore
E. S. E. diftant one mile. In the interval between
this point and the fliip are many ftioals ; and two rocks
at the bottom of the bay, the largeft of which bore
N. E. by N. the fmalleft N. by E. From thefe rocks,
ihoals run out to the S. E. which may be known by the
weeds that arc upon them. Cape Notch bore from us
W. by S. half W. diftant one league. In the interme-
diate fpacc i:i a large lagoon, init, the wind biou ing hud
all the time ofour laying here, we could not louiv.l it.
I laving moored, we fent two boats to aftill the Swallow,
by which (lie was towed intoafiiiall bay, where, as the
wind was fouthcrly, and blew frefli, (lie wan in great
danger, for the cove was expofed to S. E. winds,
and was alfo full of rocks. On the four following days
we encountered fuch terrible weather, that wc had no
other profpedl before us than that of iinniediatc def-
trudlion; and our feamcn were fo prcpofllired with the
notion, that the Swallow could not ndc out the ftorm,
that they even imagined they liiw fome of her hands
coming over the rocks towards them. The ftorm at
length fubfidcd, and the gale became more moderate on
.Saturdav the 7th ; we therefore at four o'clock, A. M.
fent a boat to cmjuire after the Swallow, who in the
afternoon returned with the welcome news that the fliip
was fafe ; but the fatigue of the people had been in-
credible, the whole crew having been upon the deck
near three days and three nights. The gufts returned
at i.idnight, t'houj'h not with equal violence, but at-
tended with hail, iTeet, and fnow. On the 8ih, Captain
Wallis ordered up, the vcaiher being extremely cold,
aiii'i the crews never dry, 11 bales of the thick woollen
Ihilf, called fear-nought, and employed all the taylors
to make them into jackets, of whiih every man in the
Dolphin had one. Seven bales of the fame cloth were
alfo fent on board the Swallow, which made every man
on board a jacket of the fame kind. Three bales of
liner cloth were cut uj) for the ollicers of both fliips,
which were very acceptable. On Sund.iy the ijth,
feeing the Swallow under fail, we fent (11 our launch,
whereby llic was towed into a vciy good harbour on tl c
fouth lliore, oppolitc to where we lay. The favourable
•iccount we received of this harbour daermincd us to
dep.-irt from Cood Luck l].iy, and wc thought oiirfclves
happy when we got fale out of it. Whci abreaft of the
place where the Swallow lay at anchor, we fired feveral
guns, as lignals for her boats loalfill m, and in a llioit
time the maftcrcameon board, and piloted us to a very
commodious nation, where we call anchor in 28 fathoms,
bottom muddy. This bay, which we called Swallow
I larbour, is Iheltered from all winds, and excellent in
every refped. There arc two narrow channels into it,
but neither of them dangerous.
On Monday the 16th, at nine o'clock, A. M. we
weighed, and took the Swallow in tow. At fne, P. M.
being little wind, we' call her oH". At nine wc had
fielh .rales, and at midnight Cape Upright boreS, S. W.
half VV. On the 1 7th, by the advice of Captain Car-
teret, wc bore away for U()right Bay, and, he being ac-
quainted with the place, the Swallow was ordered to
lead. At cle\ en o'clock wc opened a large lagpon, and
by means of a current, which fet ftrongly into it, the
Swallow w. IS driven among the breakers dofe ujwn the
lee-lliore : flic made fignals of diftrefs, and notwith-
fl.-inding the weather w;is hazy, and the furf ran high,
our boats took hjr in tow, but their utmoft clforts to*
lave her would have been in vain, had not a breeze
from the fliore happily relieved her. At noon a great
fwcll came on, th^- waves ran high, and the K.g was fo
thick, that we narrowly cfcaped lliipwreck, in what we
conje(itured to be, the B.-iy of Iflands; we therefore
endeavoured to haul out, asthconlychanceof cfcaping;
this we found no cafy talk, being obliged to tack con-
tinually, to weather fome ifland or rock ; but at four
o'clock, P. M. the weather clearing up a little, wc had
a light of Cape Upright, for which wc immediately
fleered, and between live and (ix came (nMy to an
anchor in the bay, in 46 fathoms, with a muddy bottom.
A high blurt' land on the north-lhore bore N. W. half
N. diftant live leagues, and a fmall ifland within us
S. by E. half E. The Swallow, who was driven to
lee-ward, notwithftanding ftic had two anchors a-hcad,
was brought up about a cable's length aftem of us, in
70 fathoms water. To clear her anchors, for whi^h
purpofe we fent a conliderable number of our hands,
and to warp her into a proper birth, coft us the whole
daj;, and was not only a work of time, but of the
utmoft difficulty and lalwur. On the 1 8th, we fent out
boats
-I*';
/
a6o
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Comfi. m.
botu to found qm'nc crofii the ftrait, and thii day we
moored the fhipin 78 fathomi, with the ftream anchor.
On the 19th, two canoc», having in them fevcral In-
dians, came alonif-fidc the Dolphin. Thcv were equally
miferable and abject, with thofc wc had before fccn.
A feanian gave one of them a fi(h, which he had iud
caught with a line, and it was then alive. The Inciian
fcit'ed it ai a dog wouM a bone, and inftantly killed it
by biting it near the giiU ; he then began ar the head,
and proceeded on to the uil, champing up the bones,
and devouring both the fcalci anu tnc entrails.
Thefe people would drink no other liquor than water,
but they eagerly tore in pieces and (wallowed down
f>rovirions of any kind, wncther boiled, roafted, raw,
iilt, or frcfli. Though the weather was very cold, their
only covering was a (caUfliin, and even that they jput
off when rowing. We obferved that they all had lore
eyes, occalioned probably by tht finokc of their fires,
and their filthy way of feeding .■fidc was
fmcarcd w ith rcfm or gum, which prevented the water
from foaking into the bark. To the bottom and fides
were kwed tranfverfely 1 5 (lender branchas, bent into
an arch ; and fomc fliait pieces were placed crofs the
top, from gunwale to gunwale, fccurely laflicd at each
end ; but upon the whole the workmanfliip was very
rough, nor liad thefe people any thing among them,
wherein there was the lean appearance of ingenuity.
The Captain prefentcd them a hatchet or two, fome
beads, and a few other baubles, with which they de-
parted, fccmingly well fatisfird, to the (buthward.
iDuring our Oay here, we fent our boats as ufual in
fearch of anchoring places. Several fmall cqves were
difcovercd, but iiiuir of them dangeroui. Twenty-two
of the failora belonging to one of the boats, ftaying one
night on an idand, about 30 Indians landed, ran im-
mediately to the boat, and began to make oft' with every
thing they could carry away ; the failors difcovered what
they were tloing, and had but juft time to prevent their
depreJacions. When oppofed, they went to their ca-
noes, and armed thcmfelves with long poles and pointed
javelins. 1 hey flood in a threatning attitude, and our
people on the defendvc; but the latter parting with a
tew trifles to them, they became friends, and peace and
bannony were a(^in rcdored. From this time to the
30th, \^ had hard gales, and heavy feas, accompanied
with hail, lightning, and rain. Neverthelefs, the men
were fent frequently afliore for exercifc.whichcontributed
not a little to their health, and by them we had almoft
a condanc fupply of mufclcs and vegetables. On
Monday the 30th, we improved the firft interval of
moderate weather, in drying the fails, and airing the
fpare ones, which lall wc found much injured by the
rati. Weanions, m ho,
without fpcaking, intlantly handed do*n the children,
and jumped into the canoes, which hurried after t! c
boat, while the poor Indians cried in a mol) dillrcraful
tone. When our boat was near land, fomc women
were feen among the rocks, to whom the Indians called
aloud, and they all ran away 1 but the boats crew having
remarked their jealous fears, lay on their oars, to con-
vincethem that no injury was intended. The Indians
landed, drew their canoes on fliorc, and haflily followed
theobjedls of their afTedlions. Thisdav the malUr of
the Swallow, who had been fent out to icck fur anchor,
ing places, returned with an account, that he had found
three on the north fhorc, moft of which were very j oodj
one about four miles to the eaftward of Cape Providence,
another under the eaft.fide of Cape Tamar, and a thiid
about four miles to the eallward of it ; but it mutt be
obferved, that the ground onder Cape Providence i*
rocky. Our men at this time began to be troubled w ith
fluxes, on which account, at the requeft of our fiirgcon,
it u'as ordered, that no more mufclcs (which had Ix-cu
found continually in abundance) fhould be brought on
board. On Friday the loth, we made fail in company
with the Swallow. At noon, Cape Providence bore
N. N. W. diflant five miles. At four P. M. dpe Tamar
bore N. W. by W. half W. diftant three leagues, and
Cape Pillar W. diflant ten leagues. Cape Upright
bore K. S. E. half S. diflant three leagues. On the
I Ith, having fleered W. half N. all night, we found, at
fix o'clock, A. M. that we had run 38 miles by the log.
At this time. Cape Pillar bearing S. W. diftant half
mile, the Swallow was about three miles aftern of us,
and txing but little wind, we were obliged to croud all
the fail we could, to get without the ftraits mouth.
The Captain, at eleven o'clock, would have (liortened
fail for our confort, but it was not in our power, for it
was abfolutely neceflary for us to carry fail, in order to
clear the ifles of diretftion. Soon after we loft fight of
the Swallow, and faw her not again during the remain-
der of our voyage. At noon our latitude by obfervation
was 52 dcg. 38 min. and our longitude by computation
76 dcg. weft from London. The iflands of Diredion
now bore north 21 jtel^i diftant three leagues. St,
Paul's Cupola, and Cape Vidtory in one, north, diftant
feven leagues, and Cape Pillar eaft, diftant fix leagues.
Happy did we now think ourfelves in having cleared
the Straits of Magellan, a dreary and inhofpitable re-
gion, in which wc had contended with, innumerable
difficulties, and efcaped moft imminent dangers, in a
paflage of almoft four months, lumely, from l>:ccmber
the 1 7th, 1 766, i» the nth of April, 1 767.
Our Journalift now proceeds to a defcription of the
places in which the (hips anchored, during their paf-
fage through the ftraits, from whence wc have extradted
fuch particulars, as may be of ufc to future navigators,
furnith real improvement to thofe of our fubfcritiers
who Ixlong to his majefty's navy, and afford an agree-
able entertainment to our various and numerous dafFcs
of readers.
(1.) Cape Viigin Mary. This is a fteep white clifl;
which fomcwhat refcmbles the South Fon-land. By
obfervation and our reckoning, it lies in latitude 5 1
dec. 24 min. fouth, and in 68 dcg. 22 min. weft loiwi-
tudic from London. Under this cape, when the wind is
wefterly, is a good hariwur, but we faw no appearance
either of woodor water. About a mile from the ftiorr,
you may anchor in ten fathom water, with coarfe fandy
ground. (2.) PofTefTionBay. The point of this lies in
latitude 52 deg. 23 min. fouth, and in 68 deg. 57 min.
weft longitude. Here the foundings arc very irregular,
but the ground is throughout a fine foft mud antlclay.
The landing appeared to be good, but we could fee no
figns of either wood or water. It is neceffary, in faiU
iiig into this bay, to give the point a good birth, there
being a reef that runs about a mile right otf it. (3.)
Port Famine. This is an excellent t>av, capacious
enough for many (hips to moor therein with the utmoft
Cifcty. Wood and water arc to be procured with cafe:
gecfe.
Captain WALLIS'j VOYAGE— lor making Dilcovcrivi in jhc Sou riirRN Dckan.^ci-. afii
gcff, dui k«, tful, ike. are in eriat ulcnty, ami tilh ui
abiiii(|jn< r. It is (icuatcil in latitude ( { di-e. 41 iiiin.
foutli.anil 71 dcg. iK niin. weft lon^jituili'. We ii\(K)rcil
in nine fathom, having braciou.s lagoon,
where a fleet of ftiipsmay moor in perfect fecurity. ihc
lagoon abounds with wild fowl, and we found in, and
a^ut it, wild celery, inufcles, and limpets in plenty.
(6.) Elizabeth Bay. Its latitude is 5 { deg. 43 min.
fouth, and its longitude 73 deg. 24 min. weft. Sufti-
cipnt quantities of wood may be procured here for the
ufc of ftiips, and they will find good watering at a fiiiall
river. We gathered a little celery and a few cranber-
ries, but met with neither filh nor fowl. The bcft an-
chorage is at Paflagc Point, at half a mile diftancc,
bearing S. E. and the river N. E. by E. diftant three
cables length ; in this ftation, a Ihoal, which may be
known by tie weeds, bears W. N. W. diftant one
cable's length : the ground is coarfe fand and ftiells. At
the entrance of this bay arc two fmall reefs, that appear
above witcr. The moft dangerous of the two is at
the call i)oint of the bay, but this may eafily be
avoided, t)y keeping at the diftancc of about two
cables length from the road. (7 ) York Road. This
lies in latitude 53 deg. 39 min. fouth, and, by our
account, 73 deg. 52 min. weft longitude. The land-
ing in all parts of this place is very good s and we
found celery, cranberries, mufck-s, limpets, wild fowl,
and foinc lifti, but not fufticient to fupply our ftiip?
company with a lingle meal. About a mile up aa.
chelor's River is good watering, and plenty of wofxl
all round the bay. From the Wcftern Point a reef
runs otF about a cable's length, which, when known,
may eafily be avoided. To anchor with fafety in this
bay, bring York Point E. S. E. Bachelor's River
N. by W. half W. The reef N. W. half W. and St-'
Jerom's Sound U'. N. W. at the dillaiue of h.ilf a
mile from the (Iwire. The current here frciiucntly
lets in three dillWeiu diro'tion^ i the water riles ana
falN about eight feet 1 but the tide is irregular. (H.)
Butler's Bay. This is litiiated in latituile 53 ileg.
37 min. fouth, and in 74 dig. i^ mm. well longitude.
It is not only fmall, but entirely eiu irelcd with riKks,
on whiih account we would caution every navigator
ii}{.iiiift anchoring at ihu pl.ue, il he can pollibly avoid
it. Here are fome rmk iiih, and .1 few wild tiiul, but
celery and cranberries arc very ftarce. (<;.) l.ion'l*
Cove. The fame m.iy be laid of this as we have ob-
ftrved of the preceding luy i but though the water
up a fmall creek is good, here i^ no wcmkI. The la-
titude is 53 deg. 2h min. luuth i longituile, by our
account, 74 dejj. 25 mm. wift. (10 ) Ciood l.uck
Bay. This is jiiuated in l.ititude 5 { deg. .23 min.
and in 74 deg. i^ min. well longitude. Like feveral
others, it is fmall, and the rocks with which it is fur-
rounded, render it very dillicult of accef*. We pro-
cured here a fullicient quantity of frelh water, but very
little wood. Nut any kindt of refa*fliments arc to be
expected at this place t iiulced we caught only a few
ruck tilh with houk and line. The ground is very
coarfe, and the cable of our bell bower anchor was lo
much rubl)cd, that we were obliged to condemn it,
and bend a new one. Circumftances may arife under
which It may be thought good luck to get into this
bay, but we thought it very good luck when we got
out of it. (11.) Swallow Bay. This lies in latitude
53 deg. 29 min. fouth, and in 74 deg. 35 min,
weft longitude. The entrance is narrow and rocky,
but when once entered, it is very fafe, being ftieltercil
from all winds. The lucks, by keeping a good look-
out, may be eafily avoided. As to the mountains that
furround it they have a moll horrid appearance, and
fcem to be deferted by every thing that has life ; and
we found no fupply of piovilions, except a few rock
filh and mufcles. The landing is very good, and the
tide rifes and lalls between four and five feet, (i 2.)
Upright Bay. This is in latitude 53 deg. 8 min.
fouth, longitude 75 deg. 35 min. weft." The entrance
is very fafe, and the water excellent. A fufticicncy of
wood may Ik procured for ftock, but provifions arc
rather fcarce. The landing is not good, the tide very
irregular; and the water riles and falls above five feet,
iklides thefe 12 bays, there arc three others, a little
beyond Cape Shut-up, which we named River Bay,
Lodging Bay, and W^aliis's Bay, the laft of which is
the bcft. Alfo between Elizabeth Bay and York Road
lies Mufcle Bay, wherein is exceeding good anchorage
with a wefterly wind. The ground of Chance Bay is
very rocky, and therefore to be avoided. Nof far from
Cape Quod, to the eaftward, lies Iftand Bay, which is
by no means an eligible fituation for Ihipping. There
is likewife a bay with good anchorage, oppofitc to
York Road i and another to the eaftward of Cape
Crofs.tide, but this latter one will hold only a finglc
(hip. Between Cape Crofs and St. David's Head lies
St, David's Sound, on the fouth-fidc of which we
found a bank of coarfe fand and ftiells, with a depth
of water from 19 to 30 fathom, where a fliip might
anchor in cafe of neceflity; and the mafter of the Swal-
low found a very good fmall bay a little to the eaftward
of St. David's Head.
r
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1.
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I 1 I-
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aso-
CHAP. n.
71fr Dohbitt proceeds oh her voyage from the ftrait lo the iveftward—Sevcral ijlands difcmered in the South Sen, namely
—lyhitfuH Jfland—^eeH Charlotte's— Epnont—Gloucejler— Cumberland— Prince f William Henry's— O/naiiirgh^
king George the Third's, called fy the natives Otabeite, with a particular, ftill^ and complete defer ipt ion 0/ tho/e i/lands
~-Tbe cuftoms, manners, (^c. of the natives— The feviral incidents wbicb happened en board the Jbtp and alhore-—
Particularly, a very circumftanltal account of the inbaiitauts of Otabcite— Their arts, trade, domeftU life, and charafier.
No. n, 3 u An
I
s6a
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complhth.
Ah exftdilvm H iiifivX'tt the imt^utd pari *J' ibt tmniry — Ami a xantly ^ madtnit Md Iranfiii 'ittu, lilt v.f ifHilltJ ibt
I/ImJ i» (OHlimu mtr vtytf/t.
\ ■
. t
I .
ON Sunday the nth of April 17A7, after having
cleared the (trait, we held on our courfe to the
weftward. Here it ma^ be proper to obTerve, that, m
all the hard galea by which \\c fuircrcd, blew from the
weftward, we thipt«*lt advifcable ro Rand about 100
league* and mor: to the weftward, after failiP' out of
the Strait of Magellan, that the fliip may not be endan-
Erred on a lee-innrc, which at prefent ia wholly un>
nown. At we continued our courfe a number of
Iheerwaten, pinodoet, ganneti, and other birda. Hew
about the Ihip 1 the upper worki nf which being open,
and the cloathi and bedding continually wet, the failora
in a few days were attacked with fever* t and having
a cotKinuation of ftmng gale*, haiy weather, and heavy
fea*, we were frequently broughc under our courfea. On
Wedncfday the 1 2nd, we ooferved in latitude 41 deg.
g4min. fouth, and in 95 deg. 46 min. weft longitude;
and on Monday the 27th at noon, we found our btitude
to be 36 deff. 54 min. fouih. and our longitude, by ac |
count, 1 00 deg. weft from London. This day being
fair, and the weather moderate, the Tick were brought
on deck, to whom were given fatop, and portable foup,
in which wheat had been twilcd. The violent gales re-
turned, fo that the beds were again wet through, and it
was feared that the (hip* would loTe her maftsi we there-
fore began to think of altering our courfe, in hc^ of
better weather { and the rather, u the number of our
fick encrcafcd fo faft, that there was danger of foon
wanting hand* to navigate the vcfTel. On Monday the
4th o( May, by obfcrvation, we found ourfclves in lati-
tude i8 deg. 20 min. fouth t and in 96 deg. ai min.
weft longitude. On the .*th, we faw feveral (heer-
watcn and fea fwalluwsi and on Tuefdav the 12th, we
obfcrvfd the fame kind of birds, and (ome porpoifes
about the (hip. On the 14th, we faw the appearance
of what wc imagined to be high land, towards which a
flock of brown birds were obTcrved to fly; we therefore
ftecred all ni|;ht fur this fup|Mfcd land; but at day-
break could (ec no figns of it. As the weather now
became moderate, wc found our people recovered very
tuft i and the car{Knters were buticd in caulking the
upper works of the (hip, and repairing the boats. On
the 1 5th, our latitude was 24 dm. 50 min. fouth, and
our longitude 106 deg. weft. On MonJay the 1 8th, a
Ihccp, by the captains order, was diftributed anwng our
people who were lick and recovering. On Tlmrfday
the 2 1 ft, wc faw a number of flying fi(h ; and on the
22nd fomc bonettas, dolphins, and Nying-fi(h. ALout
this time, fuch of the fcanKn on board as had been re-
covcrinj^ from colds and fevers, began to be attacked
by the Kurvy, upon which, at the fui]geon's rcprefenta-
tion, wine was I'ervcd t* themt wort was aifo made
from malt for their ufe; and each of the crew had half
a pint of pickled cabbage tvery day, notwithftandinc
which the men began to look very (ickly, and to hU
a prey to the fcurvy very fiift ; to repel which thsy had
winelerved inftead of fpirits, with denty of fwcct-wort
and falop : portable foup was boiled in their peas and
oatmeal ; their births and cloathswere kept conftantiv
clean ; the hammocks were every day brought upon deck
at ei^t o'clock in the morning, and carried down at
four m the afternoon ; fomc or other of the beds and
hammocks were wafhed daily : the ftiip's water was ren-
dered wholefome by ventilation, and every part between
decks was clcanfed with vinegar. This day our latitude
was 20 deg. 1 li min. fouth, and 1 1 1 deg. weft longitude.
On Tucfday the 26th, wc law two grampufes ; and on
the :7th, a variety of birds, one of which was taken for
a Ian J-bird, and rcfeinbled a fwallow. On the 3 1 ft, wt
found by obfervation our latitude to be 39 deg. 38 min.
fouth, longitude 127 dec. 45 rain. weft.
Un Monday the i ft of June, wc faw feveral men of war-
birds, and, on the 3rd fome ganncts; and, the weather
iKtng at this tinu* very various, wc conceived hopes that
wc drew near to land. On the .^h, a turtle fwam clofc
I
by the (hip, and the nctt day a gmt variety nf birds were
feen. On .Saturday the 6th, the lung willied-for IjikI be-
came vifible from the mafl-head, the man ( r-ying mit
" Ijnd in the north- weft." Thisinthecuurfc oliheday
proved to be a low ifland, diflant alxMit lix Iragurii.
When within live miles of this iHaitil, wc diCtitvcrcd a
fecomi to the W. N. W. The (irft lirntcniint Iwing
at this time very ill, Mr. Furncaux, the fecund lieu-
tenant, was frnt with two tionti to the lirft idand, the
crews of each being well provided with arnt«. When
the boats canKnear the iHand, two canoes were ohil-rved
to put oH'to the adjacent onei and no mhabitants were
feen to remain where our party landrd. I Icre feveral
cocoa-nuts, and a large quantity of fcurvy-graf* ucre
obtained, which proved a valuable acouilition to the
iick, and a grateful refrefttmcni to tnofe in health.
They returned in the evening to the (hip, bringing with
them fome (tlh-hook*. which the iflanders had (ormcJ
ofoy(U-r-(hells. In this cxcurfion they tlifcovercd three
huts, fup|torted on polls, and open all round, liut
thatched with cocoa-nut and |xilm leaves. As no an-
chorage could be fo«ind, and the whole illand wan cncuiii-
SfTca with rocks and breakers. Captain Wallis re-
ved to fteer fur the other illand, giving the n.inic of
Whitfun Iflaivl to this, becaufc it was difiovcred on
Whitfunday's Eve. Having approached the other illand,
Mr. I'urneaux was again fent otf with the boats, man-
ned ami armed. At this time about jo of the natives
were feen running about with flrc-brands in their hands.
Mr. Furnetux was inftrutlted to fteer to that part of
the (hore, where the natives had been feen, u> avoid
giving otfrnce. When Mr. Furneaux drew near with
the boats to the fliure, the natives put themfclves in a
pofture of defence, with their pikes ( but the lieutenant
nuking (igns of amity, and expoling to view a few
trinkets, (bme of :he Indians walked into the water:
to whom it was hinted, that fomc cocoa-nut* and water
would be acceptable : which was no (boner underftood,
than they ventured with a fuull qiuntity of each to the
boat* I and received luils and other trities in exchange.
While bartering with them, one of the Indians ftole a
filk handkerchief with its contenu, but the thief could
by no meam be difcovcred.
On Monday the 8th, Mr. Furneaux was again dif>
patched with the boats, and received orders frum Cap-
tain Wallis to land, if he could do it without oflending
the natives. As this party drew near to the ihore, they
obfervcd faven large canoes, each with two mafts, lying
ready for the Indians to embark in them. 'Ittelc
having made (tgns to the crew to procrcd higher up^
they complied, and immediately the Indians embarked
on board the feven large canoes and quitted the fpoc,
being joined bv two canoes at another part ot the illand.
Thele latter the Indians fleered in a diredlion of W. .S.
W. They were divided, two being brought along-(ide
of each other, and faftcned together, at the diflanre of
about three feet afunder, by crofs beams, pafling from
the larboard ^(unwale of one to the ftarboard gunwale
of the other, in the middle and near each end. They
appeared to be 30 feet in length, four in breadth, ana
three in depth. The people had long black hair hang-
ing over their fliouldcrs, of a dark complexion, nf »
middle fizc, and were drefTed in a kind of matting
made faft round the middle. The women are beauti-
ful, and the men juftly proportioned. In the afternoon
the fecond lieutenant being again fent on ftiore, the
Captain commanded him to take polTeinon of the
ifland in the kir«'s name, and to call it Qtieen Char-
lotte's Illand. The boats returned loaded with cocoa-
nuts and fcurvy-grafs, after having found two wells of
excellent water. Provilions for a week were now
allotted for a mate ^tid ao men, who w ere left on (hore
to Ail wiater s the lick were landed for the benefit of the
air; and a number of hands were appointed to climb
the cocM-trccf and gathrr the nuts, u hich in our litua.
tloil
i
Ca FTAiii WALLB'i VOYAGE— fof making Di(covcriei in ih«SouTMrm« Orr,AN, &c. a6j
lion were vera dcflnbk. Thew«erwMbiwJKhionb«i«rd
onihr loih, but the coem-nuii mkI vegctablet, which the
cutter WM bringing off, were l«>ft by the rolllnji of the
wivei, that •Imoft Ailed her with %wtcr. Afterward*
they made an ifland whcra were found fcireral tooli, re-
TemMing adtc*, awU. and chilTeU, which were formed
of (hell* and ftonea. The dead bodies were not buried,
but left under a kind of canopy, to decay above ground.
Thii day tht (hipfkilid again, after uking noflcfilon of
the inanda for the king i in teftimony of which v - ' ft
• flag flying, and carved hit majefty'f name on a piece
of wood, and on the bark of feveral treci. We left
ihillinn. flKpencei, halfpence, bottles, naiU, hatchett,
and other thingi for the ufe of the natives. It was
■emarkable, that on this ifland we feimd the very peo-
Ele who had fled from Qiwen Charlotte's Ifland, with
rveral othen. in the whole near lOO. It lies in 19 deg.
ao min. fouth latitude, and 13I deg. 30 min. weft lon-
gitude, and received the name of Egmont Ifland. On
Thurfdav the nth, we obferved about 16 perfona on
an ifland which was called Gloucefter Ifland 1 but u it
was furroundeil with rocks and breakers, wc did not at-
tempt to land . This day we likewife difcovered anc ther,
which was called Cumberland Ifland t and. on thi: day
following, a third, which received the name of Prince
WillianiHenry's Ifland.
On Wedncula^ the 17th, we again difcovered land,
and at ten at night faw a light, which convinced us
that it was inhahitrd, and remarked, that there were
plenty of cocoa-trees, a ccruin proof of there being no
want of water. Mr. Fumeaux was fent on fliorc the
day following, with inftrudtioiu to exchange fomc toys
for fuch things as the ifland produced. He faw a srcat
number of the petmie, but could find no place wncrc
the (hip might ancnor. Some of the natives, who had
« hitc fticks in their hands, appeared to have an autho-
rity over the reft. While the lieutenant was trafiicking
with them, an Indian diving into the water, feized the
grappling of the boat, whi^ his companions on (horc
laia hold of the rope by which (he wu faftencd, and at-
tempted to draw ner into the furf, but their endea-
vours were fniftratcd by the firins of a mufquet, on
which they all let go their hold. Tnefe Indians were
drefledin akind of cloth, a piece of which was brought
to the (hip. It was concluded from the number of the
people Teen, and their having fome larae double canoes
on the (hore, that there were larger il^nds at no great
diftance : the Captain, therefore, having named this
Elace Ofnabuigh ifland, nude fail and foon difcovering
igh-land, came to an anchor, becaufc the weather was
very foggy. The next morning early we faw land,
diftant four or five leagues ; but, after having failed to-
wards it fome time, thmght it prudent again to anchor,
on account ofthe thicknefs of the fog 1 mit it no fboner
cleared away, than we found the (hip etKompalTed by a
number of canoes, in which were many hundretb of
peQplc. Havine approached the fliip, they beheld it
with wonder, and talked with great earncftnefs. Some
baubles were now (hewn them, and figns were made for
them to come on board, on which they rowed the
canoes towardii each other, and a general confulution
took place 1 at the conclufion of which thcv all fur-
rounded the Ihip with an appeannce of frienolhip, and
one of them dfelivcred an oration, at the coiKluuon of
which he threw into the Tea the branch of a planuin.
tree, which he had held in^his hand. This being done,
a young Indian, of more apparent courage than the
reft, ventured on board the (hip. The Capuin would
have given him fome baubles, but he refufed the accep-
tance nf them till thofc in the canoes came alorg.(ide,
and, having held a confulution, threw on board Icveral
brances of the plantain-tree. Others now ventured on
board j but it was remarked, that they all got into the
(hip at foniK improper part, not one of them, even by
accident, finding the right place of afcent. A goat be-
longing to the (hip, having run his horns agsinft the
back of one of the Indians, he looked round with fur-
Erizc, and feeins the animal ready to renew the atuck
ifprug over the ftiip's fide, and was inftantly foUewcd
by all his countrymen. Their terror, however, lixm
fubftdfd, and they returned to the fliip 1 and the flucp,
hogs, and poultry being fliewn iheni, they intiiiiaicd
that they pMnrlfed the two tatter r|)ecic«. The Captain
then gave them nails and other triRcs, and made H^m
thai he wanted hogs, fowls, and fruit 1 but iheyinulj
not comprehend him. They were dctcCk-d in ftvcral
attempts to uke away any thing thcv (imiM lay hold
of) but one of them at length jumpco overboard with
a laced hat which he had fnatchcd from one of the
officers.
The interior parts nf the ifland abounds in hills,
cloaihed with timber-trees, above thcin arc high pc.ika,
from which large riven defcend to th>: fcai the houlca,
when feen at a diftance, refcmble barns, having no
ftwiterbut a roof 1 the land towards the fea is level, and
produces the cocoa-nut, with a va;iety of other fruits,
and the faceofthe whole country is pn'lurercjiic tnyond
defcriptinn. We now failed aUmp thi- (i,orc, while the
canoes, which could not keep pace with ii>, m.idc tu^
wards the land. In the afternoon the fliiu brou);ht to,
and the boats being lent to found a bay that promifed
good anchorage, the Indian canoes HcKJced rouna them.
The Captain, apprehcniivc that their drli,;ns were hof-
tile, made a lignal for the hoatx to return to the fliip,
and fired a gun over the headi of the Indians. Thoiigli
they were irightened at the rrp«)rt, thev attempted to
firevent the return of the cutter; hut ihc eailv out-
iiilcd thcin. This being obferved by (01110 canm-s in a
dift'ercnt ftation, they intencptcd hvr, and wounded
fome of her people with ftoncs, which oicafioncd the
firing a mufquet, and fume (hot were lodged in the
(houlder of the man who began thcattarkj which 'he
Indians obferving, they all made utf with the utmoft
precipitation. The boats having reached the (hip pre-
parations were made for failing, hut a large canne
making towards her at a great rate, it was rclolved to
wait the event of her arrival ; on which an Indian,
making a fpeech, threw a plantain branch on board,
and the Captain returned the coiiitiliincnt of peace,
by giving them a branch, which nad been left on
board by the other Indians) fomc toys being likewife
given them, they departed very well fatistied. Wc now
iailcd.and the next morning wercott'a peak of land which
was almoft covered with tnc natives and their houfcs.
On the 3 1 ft the fliip anchored, and feveral canoes came
along-fideof her, bringing a large quantity of fruit, with
fowls and hogs, for which they received nails and t())s
in exchange.
The boats having been fent to found along the coaft,
were followed by large double canoes, three of whic h
ran at the cutter, ftavcd in her quarter, and otherwife
danuged her, the Indians at the fame time, armed
with clubs, endeavouring to board her; the crew now
fired, and wounded one iiian dangcroufly, and killing
another, they both fell into the fea, whither their com-
panions dived after them, and got them into the
canoe. They now tried if they could ftand or lit, but
as one wu quite dead, they laid him at the bottom of
the canoe, and the wounded man vtas fupportcd in a
fitting pofture. The (hips boats kept on their way,
while fome of the canoes went on fliorc, and others re-
turned to the fliip to renew their incrchandifc. While
the boats continued out in fcveial foundings, the
natives fwam off to them with water and fruit. The
women were particularly urgent for the failon to land,
and, putting oflf all their cloaths. gave hints, of the moft
iadelicate nature, how acceptable their company would
be. The boats being fent on (hore with fome fmaU
cafks to get water, the Indians filled two of them, and
kept all the reft for their trouble. When the boatt
cameoif, theflwre was crowded with thoufandtof men,
wonwn, and children. During this time, feveral canoca
remained along-fide the (hip, but the Captain would
not permit a finale Indian to go on board, as there wai
no Euarding agauift their artful difpofitions.
On Monday the 22nd, the tutives brought hogs,
poultry, and fruit to the fhip, which they bartered for,
knivesand other thingi.fothat the wholecrewwasfupplied
viih
I
; ■
ii
t64 VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Completb.
with meat for two days, bv means of this traffic. The
boats having bttn this day fcnt for water, every in-
ducement vM ufcd by the inhabitants to perfuadc them
to land, and the behaviour of the women was (till
more lafcivious than before. Having procured a
fmall quantity of water, the boats put olT: on which
the women (lioutcd aloud, pelted them with apples and
banana.t, and (hewed every mark of contempt and dc-
teftation. On the 23rd, we made fail, with intention
to anchor off the watering-place, but, the man at the
imft-hcad difcovering a bay a few miles to the leeward,
we immediately ftood for it. The boats which were
a- head, making a fignal for an anchorage, we prepared
to bring to; but when the fliip had almofl reached the
place, (lie fuddenly (Iruck, and her head remained im-
moveable, fixed on a Cv>ral rock ; in which lituation (he
remained near an hour, vhen (he was happily relieved
by a breeze from the (norc. During the whole time
that (he was in danger of being wret-kcd, llic was cn-
compafTedby hundreds of Indians in their canoes ; but
not one of them attempted to board her. The Dolphin
was now- piloted round a reef, into an harbuur,^wherc
fhe was moored. The mafler was tiieii fcnt to found
the bay, and found fafe anchorajje in every part of it.
In the mean time fomc fmall canoes brought provilions
on board ; but as the (hore was crowdeil with large
canoes, (illed with men, the Captain loaded and primed
his guns, fupplied hislx>ats with nuifquetecrs, and kcjit
a number of men under anns.
On Wednefday the 24th, the (liip failed up the liar
bour, and many canoes followed us, bringmg provi-
(ions, .vhich were exchanged for nails, knives, ike. A
number of very I;irge canoes advanced in the evening,
laden with (^oncs, on which the Captain ordered the
ftrideft watch to be kept. At length fome canoo
came off, which had on board a number of woincn.
who being brought ainiod under the fliip, began to
Eravflife tnofc arts of indelicacy already mentioned,
luring this lingular exhibition the large canoes came
round the fnip, Ionic of the Indians playing on a kind
of a flute, others (inging. and the reft blowing a fort of
flu'lls. Soon after a large canoe advanced, in which
was an awning; and on the top of it fit one of the na-
tivcs, holduig fome yellow and red foaxhers in his
hands. The Captain having confenttd to his coming
along-fidc, he delivered the feathers, and while a pre-
fent was preparing for him, he put back I'rom the ll>ip,
and threw the branch of a cocoa-tree in the air. This
was, doubtlefs, the (ignal for an onfct, for there w a« an
intrant (hout from all the canoes, which, approaching
the fliip, poured volleys of (tones into every part ot
her. On this two guns, loaded w ith fmall dun, were
find, and the people on guard difchamcd theirmufquets.
The number of Indians round the (hip were full 2000,
and though they were at iirlt difconccrted, they Coon
recovered their fpirits, and renewed the attack. Thou-
fands of the Indians were now obferved on Ihorc, em-
barking as fart as the canoes could bring them olF:
orders were therefore given for (iring the cannon, fomc
of w hich were brought to bear upon the (liore. This
firing put a ftop to all ho(\ilitics on the part of the
Indians, for a (mall time; but the fcaitcred canoes foon
got together again, and, having hoirted white ftreamers,
advanced, and threw ftones of two yound weight from
(lings, by w hich a number of the fcamen were woui\d-
cd. At this time fevcral canoes approached the bow of
the (liip, from whence no (hot had been yet difchargcd.
In one of thefe was an Indian, who appeared to have an
authority over the re(t, a gun was tncrelbre levelled at
his canoe, the (hot of which fplit it in two pieces. 'ITiis
put an end to the contcft, the canoes rowed off w ith the
utniolV fpccd, and the people on (hore ran and con-
cealed themfelves behind the hills.
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Captain WALLIS's VOYAGE— ibr making Dlfcoveriej in the Sou THEkN Oci:an,8cc. 265
who, according to orders, dcftroycd all the Indian
canoes which could be met with. At length a fmall
party of the natives came to the beach, ftucic up fomc
Wall branches of trees, as if for tokens, and then rc-
trcatccl to the woods ; however they came agam, and
breugi i fome hogs and dogs with their legs tied, which
they left on the fliorc, together with a quantity of fuch
< loth as they wore, all wh ich they made (igns to the
failors to take away. On this, a boat was difpatched
which conveyed the hogs on board, but left behind the
other articles ; hatchets and nails were alfo dcDofitcd
on the beach in return for thcfe prclents, but the Indians
would by no means accept them till the cloth was taken
away. .
On S.iturday the 27th, a party bcmg employed in
filling water, the old Indian was feen on the oppofitc
tide of the river. After having delivered an oration in
his manner, he came over, when the officer referred him
to the b.igs and ftoncs which had been brought down,
and ufed his endeavours to convince him that the
Englilh in the late adion had aUcA only from monves
of felf defence. The old man. however, fecmcd to
think his countrymen much aggrieved, and with grelt
openncfs intimated his opinion. However at laft he
fuffcrcd himfelf to be reconciled, (hook hands with the
lieutenant, and accepted fomc prefents from him. It
wag then hinted to him that it would be bell for the
people of the ifland to appear only in fmall parties for
the future, with which terms the Indian appeared
fatisfied, and an advantageous traffic was afterwards
ertablilhed with the natives. Matters being thus fettled,
the lick were fent on ftiore. ami were lodged, under the
care of the fiirgeon, in tents near the watering place.
This gentleman (hooting a wild duck, it dropped on
the oppofitc fide of the river, in the prefence of fomc
Indians, who fled diredlyj but ftopping within a (hort
fpacc, one of them was at laft perluadcd to bring the
ifuck over, which he laid at the furgeon's feet, but, at
the fame time, the agitation of his mind was vifibic in
his .ountenance. Three ducks were killed by a fecond
(hot, and the natives were by this time poflencd with
fiich a notion of the elFeifls of fire arms, as whilft it
raifed their admiration, was fuppofed to contribute in
a great nuafure to their good behaviour towards the
Englilh diiring their ftay in thcfe parrs, though there
might be another reafon affigned for this before their
departure, as will be apparent in the fequ';l. The gun-
ner was now appointed to manage all affairs of trade
between the Indians and the failors, in order to prevent
quarrelling and pilfering. This was a judicious choice ;
the natives fometimes Hole certain trifles, but imme-
diate rcftitution was made On the light of a gun. Be-
lidcs, the old Indian m.ide himfelf very ferviceablc in
recovering any thing that might have been taken away.
In particular, an Indian fwam one day over the river,
and pilfered a hatchet, on which the gunner making
preparations, as if he meant to go in fearch of him, the
goods «-erc reflored by the old man's means, and the
oircndcr was alfo delivered up 10 the gunner. Though
he had romrr.itted other roljlnrits, yet the Captain dif-
charged him ; and all his punilhment conlifted in his
terrible apprrhenfions. Being rellored to his country-
men, he was condudtcd to the woods in the midft of
their fhouts ofapplaufc. This man had the gratitude
to bring a roafted hog and fome bread fruit to the gun-
ner next day, as an acknowledgement for the lenity
(hewn him. The Captain, firfl lieutenant, and purfer,
wei -■ at this time very ill ; fo tliat the charge of the
velfel, and the care of the fick, wrre comnJtted to Mr.
Furneauv, the fecond lieutenant, who difoharged his
duty with zeal and fidelity; and fruit, fowls, and frefh
!;ork, were procured in fuch plenty that at the end of
burteen days almolt every man had pcrfet'tly recovered
his he.iih. A piece of fait petre, of the (i/.e of a fmall
egg, iiH'^ been found on the 25th on the (hore; but
whcth'^r it w: brought from the (hip or not, could not
be icarri^^xi, ..I'vithe moft diligent enquiry; but how-
ever, no other piece was found. On the 2nd of July,
vc began to want fruit and frelh meat, owing to the
No. 32.
abfcncc of the old Indian, but \»c had ftill a fufficient
fupply for the (ick. On the 3rd, the fliip's bottom
was examined, when its condition Was found to be-
nearly the fame as when (he left England. This day a
(hark was caught, which proved an atceptable prefcnt
to the natives. The old Indian, who had vifited the
interior parts of the ifland in queft of provilions, re-
turned on the 5th, and brought with him a roalled hog
as a prefent fiir the Captain, who in return, gave him
a looking.glafs, an iron pot, &c. His return was foon
followed by fomc of the natives, who had ncvir yet
vifited the market, and who brought fomc hogs that
were larger than any yet purchafed. Another fort of
traffic was now elfablilhcd between the Indian giiis
and the failors. The price of a female's favour:, was a
nail or two ; but as the leamen could not always get at
the nails, they drew them out of fcveral parts of the
Ihip; nor could the oflenders be difcovcred b)' the
lyrietcft enquiry. The damage done to the VLdi 1 might
have been ealily irp^ired ; but a worfe C(mre-]uencc
arofe from this traliic ; for on the gunner's oH'i'iing
fmall nails for hogs, the Indians produced large fpikt a,'
demanding fuch as thofe. Some of tlje men made ufi;
of a particular device to gratify their paffions ; for when
they could procure no more nails, they cut lead into
the (liapc of them, and paffcA thofe pieces on their
unful|)ecting paramours. When the Indians difcover-
ed the (iauci, they demanded nails for the lead ; but
this jull demand could not be granccd, becaufc it would
have promoted the ftealing of lead, and likcwife in-
jured the traliic with iron. In confequcnce of their
connection with the women, the failors became fo im-
patient of coiitroul, that the articles of war were read,
to aw'e them into obedience ; and a corporal of marines
was feverely piinifhed, for ftriking the matter at arms.
The Captain's health being nearly rellored, he went in
his boat to (urvcy the ifland, which he found extreme-
ly delightfiil, and ever)' where wt^l peopled,
()n Wednefday the 8th, the wood-cutters wcreen-
tert.iined in a friendly manner by certain Indians, who
feemed to be of a rank above thofe they had yet fecn,
and I'ome ol thcfe vifiting the Captain, he laid before
them a thirty-fix-fhilling piece, a guinea, a crown-
piece, a dollar, fome (hillings, (bine new half-pence,
and t"(> lar^c nails, intimating that they might take
their choice, when they eagerly fcized the nails, and
then took a ttw half-pence, but left all the other pief the vallc, ic.roiigh
which the river flowed, the f( 1 v> js b. i. k, and there
were feveral houfes with walled ganlcns, anJ plenty of
fowls and hogs. In many 'ihces channels were rut to
condudl the water from tl. • Hills to the plantations.
No underwood was found be. c.^ih the tiers, but there
was Roodgrafs; the bread-fruit and apple-titrs were
fct ill rows upon the hill«, and ihectroa lutgrew upon
the
/).*,#';
Captain WALLIS's VOYAGE — for making Difcovcries in the Southern Ocean, &c. 267
the lerel ground. The ftreams now meandered through
varioui windings, and the crag« of mountains hung over
the travellcn heads. When they had walked about
four miles they refted, and began their breakfall under
•n apple>tree. At this time they were alarmed by a
loud (hout from a number of the native}. On this
they were going to betake themfelves to their arms,
but the old Indian made (igns that they (hould fit (till.
He then went to his countrymen, and it was prcfently
obferved that they became nlent and withdrew. They
afterwards returned, bringing with them feme rcfrclh-
ments, in exchange for which they received buttons and
other tritlcs from the lieutenant. The party then
Eroceeded, looking everv where for metals and ores,
ut found nothing of that fort worth attending to.
And now the old Indian being tired, gave his Englilh
companions to underftand tliat he was dcfiious of re-
turnmg^ but he did not leave them till he had given
diredions to the Indians to clear the way over a moun-
tain. After his departure his countrymen cut branches
from the trees, and laid them in a ceremonious man-
ner at the feet of the feamen ; they then painted them-
felves red with the berries of a tree, ami ftained their
garments yellow with the bark of another. By the af-
liilance of thefe people, the moll difficult parts of the
mountains were clmibed, and they agam rcfrcfhvd
themfelves at its fummit, when they faw other moun-
tains fo much above them, that they feenied as in a
valley. Towards the fea. the profpcdt was inexprcflibly
bc.iutiful, the (ides of the hills being covered witn
trees, ami the valleys with grafs, while the whole country
W.1S iiitcrfperfed with villages. They faw but few
houl'es on the mountains above them, but as fmoke was
obferved in many places, it Was conjeClurcd, that the
higheft were inhabited. Many (prmes gufhed from
the fides of the mountains, all of Whicn were covered
with wood on the fides and with fern on the fummit.
The foil even on the high land was rich, and the fugar
cane grew without cultivation; as did hkcwife tur-
meric and ginger. Having a third time refrelhed
themfelves, they dcfcended towards the fliip, occaiion-
ally deviating from the dircft way, tempted by the
pleafant fituation of feveral houfes, the inhabitants of
wiiich entertained them in the moft hofpitable manner.
They faw parrots, parroquets, green doves, and ducks.
The lieutenant planted the Rones of cherries, peaches
and plumbs, feveral kinds of garden feeds, and oranges,
lemons and limes. In the afternoon they refted on a
delightful fpot, where the inhabitants drtfTed them two
hogs and feveral fowls. Here they ftaid till evening,
when they rewarded the diligence of their guides, and
repaired to the (hip.
On the 26th, the Captain was vifitcd by the queen
with her ufual prefents, and this day we difcontmued
taking in wo;k1 and water, and prepared for failing. A
greater nuiwbcr of Indians now came to the fea-fliore,
than we had ever yet fccn ; and of thefe feveral appeared
to he i^rfons of copfcquence. In the afternoon the
q\iecn vilited Captain Wallis, and folicited him to
nmain ten days longer; but being informed that he
fliouid . irtainly fpil on the following day, (he burft into
tears. She now demanded when he would come again,
and wa.s told in 50 days j Ihc remained on board till
evening, when being informed that the boat waited
for her, Ihe wept with more violcm e than flie had yet
done. At length this affeiiiionate woman went over
the fliip's (idc, as did the old Indian who had been fo
(erviccabic to the crew. This man had ftgnifieH that
his fon fhculd fail with the Captain ; but wh .n 1 lie tunc
came the youth «as not to be foiinJ, froii. whence it
was coiicluiled that parent il atVcdion hai.. caufi'd the
old man ro forfeit his word. The next ri "•niiij» eai ly
two boats were fen to fill a tew calks ot ivatt'r ; but
the ofKcer, alaii.ml at lindinj^ the (hore ennded with
the natives, prepared to return. This oc( .liioned the
queen to come iorwai\l, who ordered the Indians to
retire to the other fide of the river, after which fhe
made (igui for the bo.us to come on llwi\. While
they were (illing the water ll.t oukicJ fomc paimts to
be put into the boat, and earnellly delired to go o.icc
more to the (hip, but the officer being ordcrra not to
bring olF a (ingle native, (he ordered her double canoe
out, and was followed by many others. When flw had
been on board for an hour, weeping and lamenting, wc
took advantage of a fre(h breeze, and got under fail.
She now embraced t he captain and officers, and left the
(hip ; but as the wind fell, the canoes put back, and
reached the (liip again, to which the queen's was made
fad, and advancing to the bow of it (he there renewed
her lamentations. Captain Wallis prefented her w ith
feveral articles of ufe and ornament, all which (he re-
ceived in mournful fllence. The breeze fpringing up
again, the queen and her attendants took their final
leave, and tears were (hed on both fides.
The place were the (hiphad lain at anchor, was called
Port Royal Harbour, and is fituate in 1 7 dcg. jo min.
of fouth lat. and t jo deg. of well long.
The following are the particulars we have fcledled of
the cuftoms, manners, &c. of the people of Otaheitc.
With regard to their flature, the men arc from five feet
feven to five feet ten inches high, the ftandard of the
women, in general, near three mches (horter, the tallcft
among them being about (ive feet fcvcii inches, they
were moflly handfome, and fome of them are defcribed
as being really beautiful. The complexion of fuch of
the men as are much employed on the water is reddifh,
but their natural colour is what u called tawny. Ihe
colour of their hair is not like that of the Ea(l Indians
and Americans, black, but is diverfificd like that of the
Europeans, having among them bhck. browni red,
and flaxen ; mod of the children having the latter :
when loofe, it has a ftrong natural curl, but it is ufually
worn tied in two bunches, one on each (idc the head,
or in a (ingle bunch in the middle. They anoint the
head with the oil of the cocoa-nut, mixed u ich a root of
a fragrant fmell. The women, as we have before obferved,
do not coniider chaflity as a virtue, for they not only
readily and openly trafficked with our people for pcr-
fonal favours, but were brought down by their fathers
and brothers for the purpofe of proftitution : they were,
however, confcious of the value of beauty ; and the (izc
of the nail that was demanded for the enjoyment of the
lady, was always in proportion to her charms. When
a man offered a girl to the carefTcs of a failor, he (hew cd
a dick of the fizeof the nail that was to purchafc her
company; and if our people agreed, (lie v. as fentovcr
to them, for our feamen were not permitted tocrofs the
river.
Their cloaths are formed of two pieces of cloth,
made of the bark of a (Imib, and not unlike coarfe china
paper. In one of them a hole is made for the head to
pafs through, and this hangs down to the middle of the
leg, from the (houlders tx)th before and behind ; the
other piece which is between four and five y.-irds long,
and nearly one broad, they wrap round lisc bo.ly, and
the whole forms an eafy, decent, and trac-ful ^Irefs.
They adorn themfelves with flowers, fo 'hts, li.clls,
and pearls. The lad are worn chiefly by the women j
the Captain purchafcd two dozen of a fmall lize and
Pood coloifr, but they were all fpoiled by boring. Mr.
urncaux faw feveral, in his excurfion to the weft, but
he could purchafe none with any thing he had to offer.
It is a univcrfal cuftom with both fexes, to mark the
hinder part of their thighs and loins with black lines in
various forms. This is done by (Iriking the teeth of an
indrumcnt, fomcwhat like a comb, jud through the
(kin, and rubbing into the pundurcs a kind of paf»c
made of foot ana oil, which leaves ao indelible (tain.
The boys and girls under twelve years of age arc
not marked, but we faw a few men whofe legs were
punduated, and thefe appeared to be pcrfons of dif-
tindtion.
I One of the principal attendants on the queen, wan
'Tiiich more difpofed to imitate our m.nnncrs than the
reft; and our people, with whom he foon became a fa-
vourite, diftinguilhed him by the name of Jonathan.
Ihis man Mr. Furneaux clothed completely in an Eng-
lilh drcfs, and It became him extremely w ,1. As".
WW
£68
VOYAGES ROUND tJ.c WORLD C o m p i f t r.
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was lluwl water at the landing place, our oHkcrs were
tarrietl by the inJians on flioro, anil Jonathan, airiiminj;
ttatcwith his new liiiery, uouiiJ btMurricil by fiinic ot
his people in the fame manner. In attempting to ul'c
a knit'canJ tiirkat meals, at lirll his hand always came
to his mouth, and the vichiaU, on the end ot the fork,
went a« ay to his ear. Ik-lides the articles alreaily men-
tioned, thefe people cat the Hefli of doas. Kats abound
in the illami, but, as far aswc could diUovcr, they make
no oart oV their food. In their rivers arc good talU-d
niiillets, but they are neitlier large nor in plenty. On
the reef are ;lly healed. Our fun^eon af»
terwaids ufed this vulnerary balfam with grrtu fuc
lefs. In this illand arc feveral llieds encloleuwithin a
wall, and the aiea is generally paved with targe ruiiiut
Hoiiesj but it appeared not to be much trodden, (or the
gials grew every w here between them. On the outdjc
ol the wall were leveral rude figures reli:mbling men,
women, hogs and dogs, carved on polls, that were
Ijxed in the ground. We do luit think thele places arc
let apart tiir religious worOiip, of which we could not
difcoN er the leaH traces amonu thefe people ; but w e con-
jecture thev may be repolitories of the dead, for we law
many of the nattvA enter them, with a (low pace and
dejected countenance.
They have three kinds of canoes. One are formed
out of tingle trees, ufed chicHy (or (ilhing, and carry
from two to lix men. We faw many of thefe upon the
reef A fccond fort arc made of planks fewed neatly
together, and large enough to hold (brty men. Two o(
them are generally lathed together, having two malls
fet up between them; but, if fingle, they have an out-
rigger on one Tiile, and only one mart in the middle.
I hey fail in thefe beyond the light of land, probably to
other illands, and bring home piaintains, banaiws, and
otherfruiis. A third Kind, not unlike the gondolas of
Venice, ate intended principally for lliew, ami ufed by
parties of pleafure. Thefe are very large, but have not
any (ails. The middle is covered with a large awning,
and fome of the people tit U|)on it and fome under it.
On thelirll ami iVcoiul day alter our nrn\al, fome of
thele vellels came ucar thetliipi but al'ienvards we only
f,iw, three or Inur tunes a week, a piocellion ol eight
or ten of them p.illinj; at adillaiice, with Iheameis tly-
iiig.aml a great niimberof fmall canoe; attending them.
rtiey frcmieiitly lowed to the uutwanl poiiit ot a nxf,
that lay about tour mills to the wcllwaid of us, where
tiiey conlinm-d about an hour and then returneil. 'I'lltfc
pioccllions arc made only in line weather, and on fuch
uccalions the 4)cii])le on board are dielled; thouj;,h in
the other canovs, they have nothing but a piece of cloth
wrapped round the middle. 'Ihofc in the large ca-
niH-s, who rowed and Itccrcd, were drelled in white;
ihofe who fat upon t!;c a'.uiing and under it,in white and
red; anil two men, wliu wore mounted on the prow of
each vein I, in red only. 'I'hc plank of thele \ elicit i«
made by Ipliituig a tree, with the grain, into as iii.iny
thin pieces as vhey can. The tree is tirll felled with ii
kiiidof hatchet, or adze, made of a hard grctnilh Hone,
fitted very completely into a handle: it is then cut into
Inch lengths, as arc required li>r the plank, one end of
which is heated till it begins to crack, and il.en with
wedges of hard w(xkI they fplit it down: lome of thefe
planks are two feet broad, and from i 5 to 2U feet long.
They fminith them with adzes of the fame materials
and conllruCtion, but of a fmaller (izc. We law tix or
eight men fumetimcs at work ujwn the fame plank, aiul,
as their tools fiM)n lofc their edge, every man has by hint
a cocoa-nut thcll tilled with water, and a Hat Hone,
whereon he tliarpcns his adze aliiioH every minute.
The planks are generally brought to the thicknefs of
about an inch, and are afterwards titted to the boat with
the fame exact nefs as would be expci.'ted from an expeit
joiner. To fallen thefe planks together, holes are bored,
through which a kind of plaited cordage is palled, but
our nails anfwcrcl the purpofe of fallening them toge.
ther much bett> r. '''('he fcams are caulked with dried
rulhes, and the whfilcoutlidcof the canoe is paid with
a gummy fubrtance, produced from their trees, aiul
which is fubHituted in the rotim of pitch. The wood
which they ufc for tlu-ir large canoes, is that ot the ap-
ple tree; which grows very large and Hrail. Many of
thefe HKafured near eight leet in the girth, and from
twenty to forty in the branches, with very little diminu-
tion in the lize. Their fmall canoes are nothing more
than the hollowed trunks of the bread-fruit-tree, which
is Hill more light and fpongy. The trunk of this tree
is lix lectin girth.
In the opinion of Captain Waltis, this ifland of Ota-
heite
Captain WALLIS'i VOYAtJC— for making Dilcovctka In the 5o07 hern Ockau.&c. i6()
nd of Ota-
heite
heite it one of the liion healthy iii well as dchj^htful
hxKi in the world. The diniaic appcan to be very
oood.and we faw no appearance of difcalc anions the
nativei. The hilU are covered with woi)d,and il»c val-
leys with hertMge. The air in general i* (o pure, that,
notwithlbnding tht he«t, our Helh meat kept very well
twodayi.and our Alt) one. We met with mi lro}{, toad,
fcorpion, centipietl, or ferpent, of any kind; and the
only troublcfomc infetiUthat wc faw were ants, ol which
thert were but few. The fouth-eall part ol the illand
fecnufobe better cultivated and inhabited than where
we lay, for we faw every day boati come round from
thence laden with plantainsi and other fruiu. While wc
lay off thii ifland, the benefit we received, with refpcd
to the (hip'i company, wa« beyond our moll fanguine
cxpcdationi, for we had not now an invalid aboard,
except the two lieutenanu, and the captain, and they
were recovering, though Hill in a feeble condition.
Many aflertiont have been advanced with rcfpciil to
the firft introducer* of the venereal difeafc into thin
ifland. " It it certain, (obferves Captain VVallis) that
none of our people contratled the vctica-al difcalc here,
and therefore, a* they had free commerce with jgrcat
numbers of the women, there is the gretitcll probability
that it was not then known in the countrv. It wa*.
however, found here by Captain Cook in the I£ndcay.
our, and as no European veffel it known to have vi-
fited this ifland before Captain Cook's arrival, but the
Dolphin, and the Boudcule and Etoil, rominandcd by
M. Bougainville, the reproach of liav. ig contaminate j
with that dreadful pert, a race of happy people, to w hoiu
' its miferies had till then been unknown, mull be due
either to him or to me, to England or to France : and
I think myfelf happy to be able to exculpate m)lclt'
and my countrv beyond a pollibilitv of a doubt. Ic is
well known, tnat the furgeon on board his majcfly's
fhips keep* a till of the pcrfont who are flck on board,
fpecifying their difeafes, and the times when they came
under his care, and when they were difchargcd. It
happened that I was once at the pay table on board a
fliip, when fevcral failors obiected to the payment of
the furgeon, allcdging. th.-it although he had difcharged
them from the lilt, and reported them to be cured, yet
their cure was incomplete. From this time it has been
my conflant practice when the furgeon re|Jortcd u man
tobecured, who had been upon the fick lift, tn cull the
man before me, and a(k him whether the report was
true: if he allcdgcd that any fymptotna of his com-
flaint remained, I continued him uion thelifl; if not,
required him, as a contirnution of tnc furgcon's report,
to iign the book, which was always done in my pre-
fence. A copy of the lick lid on board the Dolphin,
during this voyage, figned by every nun in my pre-
fcnce, when he was difcharged well, in confirmation of
the furgeon 's report, written in my own hand, and con-
firmed Dy my alHdavit. I have depoiited in the admi-
ralty t by which it appears, that the laft man on boird
the fhip, in her voyage outward, who was upon the fi:k
lifl for the venereal Jifcafc, except one who was fent to
England in the flore Ihip, was difcharged cured, and
figned the book on the 37th of December 1766, iK-ur fix
months before our arrival at Otahciti which was on the
19th of June 1 767 i and that the firfl man who was upon
the lift ror that difeafc, in our return home, was entered
on the 26th of February 1 768. lix months after wc left
the ifland, which w as on the 26th of July 1 767 > fo that
the (hip's company vvas intirtly free fourteen months
within one day, the very middle of which time wc fpent
at Otaheite; and the man who was< voyage with hik friends
for his own pleafurc. in vilirs, at table, and in walk-
ing, he endeavoured to iinlt.ite' the manners and cuf-
toms of the l'^ro|>eans. When M. de BougainvilL- Uli
Aotourou on bo:ird, on his lirft vilit to the governor, ho
imagined the umiflion was owing to hiii knees being
beiu inwards, and with (greater limpliiity than good
fcnfe. he applied to foine of ihc fiainen to get upon
them, fuppoling they would, by that mean., be lorced
into a lira ght ilirei.tion, I le \\.is very earnell to know
if I'aris was as fine as the Dutch f.iClory where he theit
was. At Hatavia, the delight which he lilt on his lirlt
arrival, from the lightoftheobjeCtsthat )>iefented thciii'
felves might o|M:rat^, in fome degree, ub an antidote to
the [loifon of the placci but luring the latter part of
their Hay here, he fell fick. and continued ill aconlider-
able time through the remainder of the ' jyage ; but his
readincfs in taking phytic, was equal to a man Utrn at
Paris. Whenever he fpokc of Iktavi.i afterwards, he
always called it enoue nute " the land that kills. " This
Indian, during a rclidenceof two years in 1' ranee, does
not appear to have done much credit to himl<:lf or hi:*
country. At the end of that time he could only utter
a few wordsof the language; which indocile difpolition
M. de Bougainville exciife:; with great ingenuity and ap-
parent realon, by obferving. that. " he was at leall thirty
years of age : that his memory had never been exer-
cifed before in any kind of fliidy. nor had his mind
ever been employed at all. He was totally dillc-rent
from an Italian, a Cierman, or an Knglilliman, w ho can,
in a twelveiiKinih's time, fpcak a French jargon tolerably
well; but thenthefe have a limilar grammar; their mo-
ral, phylical. political, and fo<:ial ideas are much the
fame, and all exprelFctJ by certain words in their lan-
guage asthey are in the F'reneh tongue; they have there-
fore little more than a tranflaiion to lix in their memo-
ries, which retentive fiiculiiej have been exercifed from
their infancy. The Otaheitc«n man, on the contrary,
having only a fmall nunil^rof ideas, relative on the one
hand, to ihemoll finipleamt limited fucieiv.and, on the
other, to wants which arc reduced to the I'mallelt num-
ber polfible, he would have, firlt of all, as it were, ta
create a world of new ideas, in a mind as indolent as his
boily; and this prcvi' is work nuirt be done before he can
come fo far as to adapt to them the words of an Euro-
E;an language, by which they arc to be exprclfed."
ut Aotourou feems to have kept very much below the
flandard, which the French apologill pleads he was noc
required to furpafs; for he really was not able, after two
years inltruCtion, to tranilate his Otaheiteaii ideas, few
and Ample asthey were, into F'rcnch. This itineranc
cnib.-irked at Uochelle A. D. 1770, onbu-ird the Urif.
fon, which was to carry him to the ifle of France, from
whence, by order of the French miniflry, he was to be
fent by the intendant to his native country, and for this
puqwfe, M. de iiougainville intbrms us that he gave tit-
teen hundred pounds llerling, (a third part of his whole
foitune)towanJs the equipment of the Uiip intended for
this navigation. But notwithltanding thefe endeavours
to reflore the adventurous Aotourou to his country and
connexions, he had not reached them when Capt. Cook
w as at Otaheite in 1 774.: and Mt. Forller fays he died of
the fmall pox.
'•'J,
'V.
i
3Y
CHAP. in.
I
870
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Compute.
* i
'*■'/ I
ii i
,:«*;.
CHAP. III.
TV D*lffruit,
and apple-trccs. On the }8th, we difcovered land,
which wai called Sir r>-,irlci Saunderx's Ifland. It ii
alwut iix miles Icia Irnm Ii. to W. and lies in latitude 1 7
dec. 3 8. inin. foulh, and in 151 deg. 4min. welHongi.
tuuc. On the weather fide are marw ^rent breakers,
and the ler-dde is rocky, ncverihcleU, m many places
there appears to be good anchora(|^. In the center is a
mountain, which feenis to be fertile. The few inhabi.
tants we faw appeared to live in a wretched manner, in
finall huts, very ditt'erent froi 1 the ingenious natives of
King George's Ifland. Cocoa-nut and other trees
ga-w on the Ihore, but all of them had their tops blown
away. On the 10th, we again nude land, at day-break,
bearing N. by £. to N. W. We ftood for it but could
find no anchorage, the whole ifland being encircled by
dangerous breakers. It is about ten miles in length,
and four in breadth, and lies in latitude 1 6 deg. 46 inin.
fouth, and in 154 deg. 13 inin. wclUangitudc. l)n
the lee part a few cocoa nuts were growing, and we
perceived fmoke, but no inhabitants. The Captain
named this new difcovered land Lord Howe's Illand.
In the afternoon wc difcovered in latitude 16 dvg.
a 8 min fouth, longitude 155 deg. 30 min. weft, a group
of illands or flioali, exceeding dangerous; tor in the
night, however clear the weather, and by day, if it is
hazy, a fliip may run utwn them without feeing
land. At live o'clock we dcfcried the breakers, run-
ning a ^Kii way to the Ibulhwardi and foon after low
laad to the S. W. We turned to windward all night,
and at nine o'clock, of the 3 ill, got round the fhoals
and named them Scilly Illandi.
On Thurfdayhc 13th of.Vuguft, having continued
ur courfe v.eftward, two fmall iflands came in view.
The firll, ar noon bore W. half S. diltant five leagues,
and had the appearance of a fugar loaf. The center of
the fci und role in the form of a peak, and bore W. S.
W. dilhnt fix le.^giic$. Toone, which is nearly a circle,
in diameter three miles, wc gave the name of Itofcawen's
Illand i and this we believe to be the only inftance
which jKTCun, of an ifland receiving the name of a de-
ceafcd great man. .\dmiral Bofcawcn died in the year
1761. The other iiland, which is three miles and a
half in length, we called Keppel's Ifle. Port Royal at
this time bore eaft 4 deg. fouth, diflant 478 leagues.
At two o'lluck, P. M. we faw frveral inhabitants upon
Bofcawen'b Illand j but Kejipel's bcingto windward, and
appearing more likely to afford uj ptxxl anchorage,
we hauled up for it. At fix, being dillant therefrom
nearly two miles, w e obfervcd, by the help of our glaffes,
many of the nativca upon the beach •, but we did not
attempt to anchor, on account of fomc breakers at a
confickrablc diftancc from the ifland. However, on
the 14th, early in the morning, the boats were dif-
patchcd to found and vifit the illand. At noon they
returned, without having found any gro«jnd, within a
cable's length of it ; but fceinj; a reef of rocks, they had
hauled round the fame, and got into a Iqrge deep bay
full of rocks: without this was anchorage from 14 to
20 fathoms, bottom fand and coral; and within a
rivulet of good water ; but the fhorc Iwing rocky, they
went in fearch of a better landing place, which they
found about half a mile farther, and went albore. Our
people reported, thf.t the inhabu.inti were not unlike
thofe ol Otaheitc; they were cloatned in a kind of
nutting, and were remarkable for having the firll joint
of their little Rngen cut ofl'. They fecmed to be peace-
ably inclined, and thrceof them from their ranocs came
into the boau when they put off, but Aiddcniy jumped
overboard, and fwam back to the illand, where atiout
50 of their countrymen flood on the fhore ready to
receive rhem, but who would not advance nearer than
about 100 yards to our people. Thefe brought on
board two !nwlt, and fome fniit, but they faw not any
ho^. 'i'illthit day, Ccptain Wallii had entertained a
defign of rt;uriiinK to England by the way uf the Ma-
gellanic Straits 1 but as no convenient watering place
was to be found at this iOand, and as the fhip Ind re«
ceived fume damages, that had rendered her unfit to
encounter a rough fea, he determined to fail for Tinian,
from thence to Butavia, and fo home by the Cape of
Good Hope. By this route, as far as we could judge,
we cxpeded to be fooner at home, and fuppoling the
fhip might not be in a condition to ipakc the whole
voyage, we lliould Dill have a greater probabili'y of
faving our lives, as fn?m this place to Uatavia, we fliould
have a calnt fea, and be not far from port. Wc think
it rather extraoidinary that a thought (hould be enter-
tained by Captain Wallis, 0.' returning by the way we
came < as, independent of the prodigious unneceflar/
rifk that would Dc run, the honourof navine gone over
the entire circumference of the globe would have been
lofl : for a vcwage into the Soutn Sea would have had
nothing attractive in its found ; but a voyage round the
world, was calculated to draw general attention. In
confequence of the above refolution, we palfed Bof-
cawen's Illand, which is well inhabited, and abounds
with timber; but Keppel's is by far the largeit and
beft Illand of the two. I'he former lies in latitude
'5 ^^^K- 5° "^'n- iouth, longitude 175 dee. weft;
and the latter in latitude 15 ucg. 55 min. longitude
1 75 deg. 3 min. welt from London. We continued
our courfe W. N. V, . and,
On Sunday tl.e i6th, at ten o'clock, A. M. wc dif-
covered land bearing N. by E. and at noon were within
three leagues of it. Within fhore the land appeared
to Ik high, but at the water-flde it was low ; and teemed
to he furrounded with reefs that extended two or three
miles into the fea. The coaft is rocky, and the trees
grow almoft to the edge of the water. We hauled
without a reef of rocks, to get round the lee-fidc of the
ifland, and at the fame time fcnt oft the t)oats to found
and examine the coaft. Our people found the trees to
be of different forts, luanv of tncm very large, but
all without fruit : on the Ice-lidc indeed were a few
cocoa-nuts, but not a fmgle habitation was m be fcen ;
norany kindof nnimals, cither birds or bealts, except
fea fowl. S
Hmtographic
Sdences
Corporaiion
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.y. 14S80
(716) 872-4503
•SJ
i\
<^
^
^A^
,u
11
Captain WA^LIS's VOYAGE—for making Difcpveries in the Southern Ocean, &c. 271
canoes, all along the reef till they got to the breach,
and then they rowed back. Wc (hall here remark, ai
an extraordinary circumnance, that although no fort
of metal wa« feen on any of the latdy difcovcred iflands,
yet the natives were no fooner poflcfled of a piece of
iron than they bqgan to flwrpen it, but did not trrat
copper or bra's in the fame nunner. When the boats
returned, which wu about fix in the evenini^ the malter
reported. that all within the reef was rocky, but thwt
at two or three placet without it there was good an-
chorage in 18, 14, and la &thoms, upon land and
coral. The opening in the reef is 60 fathoms broad,
where, if prefled by nccellitjr, a fliip may anchor, or
moor, in eight fathoms ; but it will not be fafc to moor
with a greater length than half a cable. This ifland
the officers called after the name of our commander,
Wallis's Idand. It is fituated in latitude 13 dcg.
1 8 min. fouth, and in 1 77 deg. weft longitude. Having
hoi (led in our boau we ran down four miles to leeward,
where we lay till the morning; and then, finding that
the current hadfet us out of fight of the ifland, we made
fail totheN. W.
On Friday the 28th, wccroflcd the line into northern
latitude, our longitude being, by obfcrvation, 1 87 deg.
34 min. wed from London. During this courfe many
birds were feen about the (hip, one otwhich was caught,
and refemblcd exadlj^ a dove in fize, Ihape, and
colour. On the 29th, in latitude 2 deg. 50 min. north,
and in 188 dea well longitude, wc croflcd a great
rippling, which mctched from the N. E. to the S. W.
as for as the eye could reach from the mall-head. We
founded, but found no bottom, wicha line of 200 fathoms.
On the 3rd of September, being Thurfday, wc faw
land, which was thought to be two of the Pifcadone
Iflands. The latitude of one of them is u deg. north,
longitude 192 deg. 30 min. wed, and that of the other
II deg. 20 min. north, longitude 192 dcg. 58 min.
At five o'clock, A. M. we faw more land in the N. W.
and at fix, in the N. E. obferved an Indian prow,
iuch as is defcribed in the account of. Lord Anfon's
voyage. Perceiving (he made towards us, we hoifted
Spanifii colours : but Ihc came no nearer than within
two miles, at which dillance flic tacked, (luod to the
N. N. W. and was out of fight in a ftiort time. On
the 7th, we faw a curlew, and on the oth, we caught a
land bird, very much refemblinga darling. On Tliurf-
day the 1 7th, we obferved in latitude 1 5 deg. north,
longitude 212 deg. 30 min. W. On the i8th, at fix
o'clock, A. M. we dcfcried the ifland of Saypan, bearing
W. by N. didant ten leagues. In the afternoon we
came in fight of Tinian, made fail for the road ; and
on Saturday the 19th, we came to an anchor in 22
fathoms, fandy ground, at about a mile diftant from
the fliore, and half a mile from the reef. We loft
no time, after the fliip was fecurcd, in fending the
boats on Ihore, to erca tents, and procure fome re-
frefliments. In a few hours they returned with oranges,
limes, and cocoa-nuts. The futgcon, with all the in-
valids, were landed with the utmod expedition ; alJTo
the fmith's forge, and a ched of carpenter's tools. The
Captain and fird lieutenant, both being in a very fickly
condition, went likewife aihorc, ukjng with them a
mate and 1 2 men to hunt for cattle in the country.
Qn the aoth, the mafter informed us, that there was a
better fituation to the fouthward ; we therefore warpod
the (hip a little way up, and moored with a cable each
way. At fvx o'clock in the evening, our hunter* brought
in a fine young bull, of near 500 weight, part of which
wckept on fiiore,.and fent the remainder on board,
with a good fupply of fruit. The amount of the peo-
ple now on fliore, fickand well, was 53. On the aift,
we began the neceflary repairs of the fliip. The car-
penters were fet at work to caulk her : all the fails were
got on fliore, and the fail makers were employed to
Biend them: while the armourers were buTy on the
iron work, and making new chains for the ru^r.
The fick recovered verv ft& from the day they firft
breathed the land air : this, however, wu fo different
from what we found it in Ouhcitc, that Sdb mcMt
which there kept fweet two days, could here be fcarcely
kept fweet one. Mear the landing-place we faw the
remains .of many cocoa-nut trees, which had all been
wantonly cut down for the fruit ; and we were obliged
to go three miles into the countiyto procure a finglc
nut. The hunters alfo fufferecl incredible fatigue,
going frequently 10 on 3 miles, through one continued
thicket, and the cattle were fo wild, that it was very
difficult to come near them. On this account one
party was ordered to relieve another ; and Mr. Gore
with 14 men were dationed at the north part of the
ifland, where cattle were in much greater plentjr. At
day-break every morning, a boat went off to bring io
what they caught, or killed, and in this ifland we pro^
cured beef, poultry, papaw apples, and all the other re*
frefliments, of which an account is given in Lord Anfon'a
voyage t but which differs in fome particulars from
the report made of this place by Commodore Byron.
During our day at this place, the (hip was laid down
by the dern, to get at fome of the dieitning which had
been much torn; and in repairing the copper, th^
carpenter difcovercd and dopped a leak under the
lining of the knee of the head, by which we had Veafon
to hope mod of the water, that the velTel had lately
admitted ^n foul weather, came in.
On Thurfday the 1 5th of Odlobcr, all the fick being
recovered, iiur wood and water completed, and the
Dolphin maae fit for fea, every thing was ordered 6a
board from th^ fhore ; and all our men were embarked
from the watering-place, each having, at lead, coo
limes ; and we had fevcral tubs full of the fame fruit
on the quarter deck, for every one of the crew to
fqucczc 4nto his water what he fhould think (it. On
the 16th, at day break, we weighed, and failed out of
the bay, fending the boats at the fame time to the north
end of the ifland, to bring off Mr. Gore and his hunters.
At noon they came on board with a fine large bull
which they had jud killed. On WedncfJay the 2ifl,
we held on a wederly courfe; and on the 2 and, Tinian
being didant 277 leagues, we faw fevera! birds, parti-
cularly three refembling gannets, of the fame kind that
we had feen when within about 30 leagues of Tinian.
On the 23 rd, and the two following days it blew a
violent dorm, and we had much thunder, lightning,
rain, and a great fea. The fhip hboured very much:
the rudder became again loofe, and fliook the dern, a
defed which we had before experienced, and which we
thought had been remedied at Tinian. The gales in-
creafing fplit our gib and main-top-mad day-fail: the
fore-fail, and mizen fail were torn to pieces ; and,
having bent others, we wore, and dood under a reefed
fore-fail, and balanced mizen. The eRe&n of the dorm
were more dreaded, as the Dolphin admitted more
water than (he had done at any time during the voyage.
Soon after we had got the top-gallant-mads down upon
the deck, and took in the gib-boom, a fea druck the
(hip upon her bow, and wafhed away the round-houfes,
with all the rails of the head, and every thing upon the
forexember, wc iaiuted the go-
vernor with 13 gunt, which, contrary to the ufual cuf-
tom, he retuined with one more, inftead of «ne Icfs,
frdm the fortj and permilTion having been obtained to
purchdfe provifions, we were foon uipplied with beef,
and plenty of vegetables, which the Captain ordered to
bcferyed immediately: at the fame time he told the
(hip's company, that he would not fufier any liquor to be
brought on board, and would fevertly punifli thofe who
made fuch an attempt, obferving, in order to reconcile
them to this regulation, that intcmucrancc, particularly
in a too free uTc of arrack, would inevitably dcftroy
them. As a further prefervative, the captain would not
fulfcr a man to go on (hate, except upon duty, nor were
even thclc permitted to go into the town. At this time
14 fail of Dutch Eaftlndiamcn, and a great number of
finall velTels were laying in this road. Here alfo mc
faw the Falmouth, an Eitglilh man of war, of 50 gum,
lying upon the mud in a rotten condition. She touched
at this inhofpitablc place, on her return from Manila,
in the year 1 762, and was condemned. On examin-
ing the (lores and (hip, every thing was found in fo
decayed a ftate, as to be totally ufelefs. TTie officera
and cm- of this ftiip were in a miferable condition.
The boatfwain throui;h vexation and diflrcfs had lo(l his
fenfes, and was at this time in a Dutch hofpital : the
carpenter was dying; and the cook a wounded cripple.
The warrant officers belonging to this wreck prefented
a petition to Captain Walfis, requefting that he would
take them on. board the Dolphin. They ftatcd, that
nothing now remained for them to look after; that they
had ten years pay due, which they.^|^ld gladly rclin-
quiih. to be relieved from their prcfenf fu(fcrings, as the
treatment they received from the Dutch was moft in-
human. They were not permitted to fpend a (Ingle
night on (hore, and in ficknefs no one vifitcd them on
board : they were befidcs robbed by the Malays, and in
continual dre.id ot being murdered by them. Captain
Wallis told them, with the utmoft regret and compaf-
fion, that the relief they prayed for, it was not in his
power to render ; ihnt as they had received charge of
ftorcs, they muft wait for orders from homci but he
alTured them he would do all in his power to relieve
them : and with this remote confolation only, tlie poor
negteitlcd, forgotten, unaflifted fuffcring Englifhmen
took their leave with tears in their eyes. About fix
months before Captain Cook touched at Batavia, on
board the Endeavour, in 1770, the Dutch thought fit
to fell the Falmouth, and all her damaged (fores, by
public audioo, and fcnt the officers home in their own
(hips.
The exorbitant prices which were demanded for
cordage, and every other article which the Dolphin
ftood in need of, obliged Captain Wallis to leave the
place without procuring any thing of that kind, although
his need of them was very great. During our flay at
this place, which was eight days, the molt falutary re-
gulations were cftabliflied, in order, if polTible, to prc-
ferve the crew from the malignity of the climate; and
the mo(b bendficial confcqucnccs enfued. The (hip's
company continued fpber and healthy the whole timet
f.r, except a Tailor who had been amided with rheu-
matic pains ever fince we had left the Straits of
Magellan, only one man was on the fick lift.
On Wcdnefday the 3nd, our boatfwain and carpenter
wertfent to examine fuch of the ftorcs, belonging to
the Falmouth, aj> had been landed it Onmft, with
orders, that if any were fit for our ufe they (hould be
gurchafed. On their return they reported, that aH the
ores they had furvcyed were rotten, except one pair
of tacks, which they brought with them: .the ma(h.
yards, and cables, were all dropping to pieces; and even
the iron work was fo nifty that it was worth nothing.
They alfo examined her hulk, and found her in a moft
(battered aondition. Many of her ports were walhed
into one ; the ftern poft was quite decayed ; and there
was no place in her where a man could be (hdtered
from the Weather. The few unhappy fuiferers who
remained m her, were in as wretched a (htt a« the
(hip, being quite broken and wore dpwn, and cxpeCf
ting to be drowned at foon as the monfoon (hould fee
in. AiMng other ne<:c(rariei, we were in want of an
aiKhM',
■m-iii
^ij,^
' -•■-■>■»■■
«>kk
Captain WALLIS's Voyage— for making DifcoVcries in the Soi)TriEfeN.OctAii<&c; 27 j
tnchor. and of three inch rope for rounding the cables j
but the oflficeri, whom the Captain fcnt to prbcurj thefc
articles frotn the CKitch, as he cduld not be fupplied
with them from the Falmouth, reported, :hit the price
MVhich hid been dema.ided for them was fo unrea-
fonable, tiiat they had not agreed to give it. On
SaturdaV the 5th, therefore, the Captain himfclf went on
Ihore, for the firft tirtie, but found it impollible, after
having viitted the various ftore-houfcs and arfcnais, to
make i better bargain than his officers would have
done. We now fu^>eruifed, and tmny of his bones were broken. In
his fall he ftruck two other men. one of whom was fo
much hurt, that he continued fpeechlefs for a few days.
and then died ; but the other had only one of his
toes broken. While at this ifland, we buried three
more of our hands, among whom was George Lewi.«,
eur quarter-mafier, a dill :ent, fober man, and exceed-
ing ufeful, as he fpoke both the SpaniOi and Portuguefe
languages. On Sunday the 20th, at fix o'clock, A. M.
We made fail, and from this time to the 24th, many of
(^r people began to complain of an intermitting dif-
Order fomething like an ague.
A. D. 1768 ^" Friday the ift of January, not lefs
' ' than 40 of our crew were down upon the
fick lift, laid up with fluxes and fevers of the putrid
•kind, difeafes efpecially fatel on board a fliip. The
furgeon's mate was of this number ; and even thofe
ivho were appointed to attend the fick, were always
taken ill in a day or two after they had been upon that
fervice. The attention which our commander paid to
the fick docs him honour. He caufed a commodious
birth to be made for them, which he ordered to be hung
with painted canvafs, keeping it always clean, and
diredlmg it to be wafhed with vinegar, and fumigated
6nce or twice a day : the water, though well tafted, was
ronftantly ventilated : a large piece of iron was alfo
heated red hot, and quenched in it, before it was given
out to be drank : the fick had alfo wine inltead of grog,
and falop, or fago, every morning for brcakfaft : two
days in a week they had mutton broth : fometimes a
Ibwl or two on the intermediate days : bcfides all which
reftoratives and nourifhment, they had plenty of rice
and fugar.and frequently malt maflied for them. We be.
•jevc people in a fickly fhip had never fo many re-
frelhmerits before Nor was the fui^con lefs affiduous
in difcharging, with unremitted attention, the duties of
his office ; yet, notwithftanding all thefe advantages,
licknefs gained ground from the malignant and con-
tagious nature of the fevers with which the men were
feized. To augment thefc our afflidiong, the Hup,
grew very leaky, Iter upper work* were loofe, and
No. 33.
■hatbbtailH
CUl
Ihc made more than three feet water iti a watch;
Howeverj through fhc divirtc bjeftiiig upon huthaii
means, by Qie loth, the licknefs began to abatd, but
more than half the crew were fo feeble,, that they cduld
fcarcely crawl about. This day we faw niany trbpic
birds about the ihip, and on the 17th, wc obfcrved
feveral albatroffes, ami caught fome bonetta^. On the
24th, in latitude r) deg. 40 min; foucb, longitude 328
deg. 17 min. weft, wc encountered a violent floVrti,
which tore the maih-tO'p-fail td piece*. A dreadful
fea broke over the (liip, by v^hich the ftarboafd rudders
chain was dcniolifheu. and feveral pf the booms were
wafhed overboard ; yet during the ftorm We obfcrved a
number of birds ; and after it fubfided all hands \ter6
cmpidycd in drying tnc bedding, and in Repairing our
fliattcred fails. On the 27th. we were by obfervatioil
in latitude 34 deg. 16 min. and in lortgitude 323 deg»
30 min. weft, and on the 30th, at fix o'clock in the
evening, we faw land.
February the 4th, being thurfday. We arrived at tli■'
474
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Comhletb.
«-■
conduct of the Dutch at Baiavia, and at the Cape.
The Aliutic Dutch can fcarcely be induced to render
the common offices of humanity to fuch of their
fpccics who rcfort to them to be f»vcd fVom the jawi
of death, and their rapacity knows no bounds: the
African Dutch arc difpbfed to adminifter every com-
fort tu thofe who Wiint relief, and in doing this no ex-
tortion isi phtflifed. The principle upon which the
peopic at each fettlenient aa is eafil^ to be ti aced : at
tl>c tirrt place, they fufpcdt every foreign European (hip
which enters their port as endangering a fecure poflcf'-
(ion of the moft valuable branch of their commerce i
in the latter, the wealth of the inhabitants, as well as
the emoluments of government, arc derived from the
offices of humanity which they difchargc. This day,
at five o'clock, A. M. we put 56 gallons of falt-water
into thoftilli at fcven it began to run, and, in little
more than five hours, afTordcd us 42 gallons of frefli
water, at an expencc of nine pounds of wood, and 69
pounds of coals. What we drew off had no ill taftc,
nor, as we had often experienced, any hurtful quality.
C aptain Wallis never once put the (hip's company to an
allowance of water, during the whole voyage, always
ufing the Aill, when we were reduced to 45 tons, and
prefcrving the rain water with the utmoll diligence!
nor would he permit water to be fetched away at plea-
furc; buttheofliccr of the watch had orders to fcrve
out a fufficient quantity to thofe who might want it
for tea, coffee, grog, and provifions of any kind. On
Thurfday the 26th, we had nearly got on board all our
wood and water; all our hands, and the tents were
brought oft" from the (horc j and, upon a general mufter,
we had the happincfs to find, that in our whole com-
pany, three only were incapable of doing duty, and that
wc had loft only the fame number, fincc our, departure
from B.itavia, by licknef*. This day the Captain came
on board ; and on the 37th and 28th, after having (lowed
all our bread, a condderable quantity of ftraw, and above
;p (beep for fea (lores, we unmoored, and lay waiting
for a favourable wind.
On Thnrfday the 3rd of March, wc got under fail.
From many obfervations wc had an opportunity of
making at Green Point, we determined 1 able Bay to
lie in latitude 34 deg. 2 min. fouth, and in 18 deg.
8 min. eaft longitude from Greenwich. On the 7tn,
we were in latitude 29 deg. 33 min. fouth, longitude
347 deg. 38 min. irom London. On Saturday the 13th,
we found a day had been loft by having failed weftward
360 deg. from the meridian of London; wc therefore
called the latter part of this day, Monday the 14th of
March. On Wednefday the i6th, at fix o'clock, P. M.
we came in fight of the ifiand of St. Helena, diftant
14 leagues; and on the 17th, at nine o'clock, A. M. wc
eaft anchor in the Bay. Wc found riding here the
Northumberland Indiaman, Captain Miltbrd, who
faluted us with 1 1 guns, and we returned nine. All
our -boats being hoifted out as Toon as pofTible, we fcnt
one party to fill our empty calks with water, and others,
to gather purfiain, of which there is great plenty. The
Captain going on (hore was faluted with 1 3 guns from
the fort, which compliment wc returned. The ^
vemor and principal gentlemen of the ifland met kim
upon landing ; and having conduded him to the fort,
requefled that he would make that place his refidencc,
during his (lay ; but our water bemg completed, and
the ffiip made ready for fea, on the 1 8th, Capuin
Wallis returned on board ; upon which wr unmoored,
at five o'clock, P< M. got under way, and fet fail for our
native country, happy old Endand. On Wednefday
the aird, at five o'clock, A. M. we had in view the
iflandof Afcenfion ; and at ei^t a (ail was f«en to the
caflwani, which brought to^ and hoiftcd a jack at her
3
main-top-maft head ', but we had no fooncr (hewed
our colours than Ihc went about, and ftood in fur the
land again. Palling by the N. E. fide of the illand, we
looked into Ine bay, but feeing no velUj there, and it
blowing a ftilf gdle, we held on our couife. On Mon-
day the 28th, we crofied, for the fourth time, the cquu
noxial line, getting again into north latitude.
On Wednefday the 13th of April, wc palTcd a great
quantityofgulph weed, andonTucdlay the 19th, per-
ceiving the water to be difcoloured, we founded, but
could find no bottom. On the 24th, at five o'clock, A;
M. wccame in fight of Cape Pico, bearing N. N. E.
diftant 1 8 leagues ; and at noon, by obfervation, wc
found Fyal to lie in latitude 38 deg. 20 min. north, and
in s^Sdeg. 30 min. weft longitude from London.
On Wednefday the i ith of May, we faw the Savage
Sloop of war Captain Hammond, iri chace of a (loop, at
which he fired feveral guns. Ori this we alfo fired, and
broucht her to. She belonged to Liverpool, was called
the Jenny, and commanded by Robert Chriftian. Cap-
tain Hammond informed us, that when he firll faw her,
(lie was in company with an Irifh wherry, and that as
foon as they di (covered him, they took dilTereni ways:
the wherry hauled the wind, and the Jenny bore away.
At firft he ftooil after the wherry, but finding he gained
rio ground, he bore away after the Jenny, who probably
would likewifc havcoutfailcd him, a:id efcaped, had wc
not brought her to. She was laden with tea, brandy and
other goods, from Rofcoe in France. Ilcr brandy and
tea were in finall kegs and bags. Captain Wallis de-
tained her, in order to her being fent to England, as
from all appearances, which were ftrongiy againll her,
we judged mifs Jenny to be a fniuggler; for though
failing a S. W. courfc, (he pretended to be Iwimd to
Bergen in Norway. On the 13th, at five o'clock, A.
M. the iilands of Scilly appeared ; and on Thurfday
the 19th, Captain Wallis landed at Haftings in SulTcx.
On the following day this voyage was happily com-
pleted, and the circumnavigation of the globe (iiccofs-
lully accompli(hcd ; for on Friday, the 20th, the Dolphin,
came to an anchor in the Downs, having been 6j7
days from the time that (he took her departure from
Plymouth Sound. As the main end propofcd by this
arduous and hazardous undertaking was to make dif-
coveries. Captain Wallis, when navigating thofe parts
of the South Sea, which were imperfcClly known, that
nothing might efcape him, conftantly laid to every
night, and made fait only in the day; notwithftanding
which confiderable delay in failing, he accomplifhed his
voyage a month and a day fooner than his prcdeccfTor
had done in the fame circumnavigation. The ill health
which the Captain complains of almoft through the
voyage, may fervc as a fufficient apology for the want
of a more copious information in his narrative, con-
cerning the places which he vifited, particularly Ota-
heitc, the Indian name of which he does rot mention;
In the relations of this commander, wc fee little of that
watchful attention, curiofity, and ardent defirc, to
" catch the manners, living as they rife," whi<;h were
pofTeflTed by Captain Caneret, and which appear fo
eminently confpicuous in Captain Cook, wherever he is,
and in whatever manner he is engaged ; yet injuftice to
the rerpe<5l .Lie chara(fter of Captain Wallis, we muft
obfervc, that he conftantly and indcfatigably purfued
the grand objedl of his voyage ; and if we confidcr his
nautical abilities, his amiable philanthropy, apparent in
his condudtand behaviour to thofe under his command,
together with his judicious obfervations as a mariner,
at the feveral ports, and the various fituations of the
Dolphin at fea, we cannot but think he is defervedly
worthy of being placed in the firft rank of our able and
flulful circumnavigators.
I
A ITEW, AUTHENTIC, RtMARKABLE, and ENTERTAINING
HISTORY and NARRATIVE, of
A VOYAGE Round the WORLD;
UNDERTAKEN and PERFORMED,
By that NEGLECTED and GALLANT OFFICER,-
Capt. PHILIP CARTERET, Efq.
In his MAJESTY'S Sloop the SWALLOW;
During the Years 1766, 1767, 1768, and 1769. '
CONTAINING.
•
A lively defcription of the generous nature of Captain Carterctj the inattention which was fhewn
to his fitting out; and his fcanty fupply of neceflaries; togctlier with an affedting and complete account
of the perilous lituation of the Swallow, on the weilern extremity of the Magellanic Straits ; who,
notwithAanding her bad failing, dangerous fituations, and Shattered condition, without any marks of
dcfpondency from her company, continued her voyage, after her feparation from the Dolphin, and
accomplished the circumnavigation of the Globe; having fet fail from Plymouth Sound Augufl the
22nd, 1766 — Parted from her con fort, the Dolphin, on the nth of April, 1767 — and anchored at
Spithead on the 20th of March 1769 — The whole being drawn up from authentic journals and pri-
vate papers, and illuftratcd with a rich variety of communications from Captain John Hogg, late of the
Royal Navy.
INTRODUCTION.
CAPTAIN Philip Carteret, the hiftory of whofe
voyage round the vfoM wc arc about writing,
had failed with Commodore Byron on his expedition,
and foon after his return, was appointed to the com-
mand of the Swallow Sloop, deflincd to accompany the
Dolphin, and Prince Frederick Store-fhip. The Cap-
tain having received his commifTion, bcariQg date July
the I ft, 1766, was ordered to fit out the Swallow, which
then lay at Chatham, with all polTible expedition. This
irallant officer defcribe.i emphatically, and in a moil
beling manner, like his predeceflbr, Commodore An-
fon, tne inattention which was fhewn to his fitting out.
It had been hinted to him, that he was to go out in the
Dolphin, but the amazing difparity of the two fhips,
and the di&inguifhed fupcriority in the equipment of
one to th^ other, induced him to conclude, that they
coiitd not be intended for the fame duty ; for whilft
the Dolphin was furnifhed with every thing reouifite for
a long and dangerous navigation, the negieifted Swallow
Sloop had only a fcanty fupply of jiecefTaries. Be-
fidcs, (he was an old vefTcl, having been built 30 years,
and was by no means fit for a long voyage. Upon her
bottom was only a flight thin flieaihing, which was not
even filled with nails to fupply the want of a covering,
that would more eiFeiflually keep out the worm. Cap-
tain Carteret obferving the Swallow to be totally un-
provided with many things, which particular fituations
might render abfolutely necelTary for her prefervation,
applied for a forge, fome iron, a fmall fliift, and feveral
Other things ; not one of which articles he could obtains
but was told, that the vefTel and her equipment Wert
very fit for the fervice fhe was to perform j though, at
the fame time, flie had not a fingle trinket or toy put
on board her, to enable her commander to procure re-
frefhments from the Indians of the Southern Hemif-
pherc. Add to all this, there was a deficiency of junk
on board, an article effentiaily neceflary in every voyage t
and when application was made for this at Plymouth,
the Captain was told, that a fufficient quantity was
put on board the Dolphin. Thus citcumftanced, it
cannot be even fuppofcd, that a commander of Cap-
tain Carteret's difcernment. would think of being a
confort with the Dolphin in her hazardous expedition »
and we cannot but credit the declaration of this brave
officer, when he tells us. he was therefore confirmed in
his opinion, that if the Dolphin was to go round the
world, it could never be intended that the Swallow
fhould go farther than Falkland's Iflands, where the
Jafon. a fine frigate, which was. like the Dolphin
thcathcd with copper, and amply equipped, would, in
the Captain's opinion, fupply her place. Nothing can
place a commander of fcamen in a more refpeCtabl^
point of view, than his appearing to pofTefs equanimity
and fortitude under the mod difheartenimg circum-
ftances. Numerous and great as thefe were, Captain
Carteret refolvcd to fcrve his country in the line of hii
profeffion -, and therefore proceeded to Plymouth Sound
with the Swallow, in company with the Dolphin, under
the command of Captain Wallis, and the Prince Fre-
derick Store-fhip, commanded by Lieutenant James
Brine,
zj6 VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Co^pi.stb,
Brine. While the Swallow lay at this place, not being
yet acquainted with his dcflination, Captain Caiterct
reprcfcntcd to Captain Wallishis being in want of junk,
who fent him 500 weight, a quantity lb fmall and in-
AilHcient. that wc were Aion redurcd to the dlfiigrce''
able ncccllity qf cuttiitg off iuiiio of the t;»bl«i to lavo
our rigging.
CHAP. I.
fix Szval/cw fails in rompany tdlb ibe Dolphin, and FfvJrriik Store-Jhip, from riyiimtb Smnd, FriJiiy the Zititl 0/
Aiig^ufl, 1^66— Pj/fiJf^e from tbaice to the Ijlatid of MuM-ini — Proceeds en bcr voyaj^e to the Straits of Magellan-^
And anchors off Cape Virgin Mary — The hid condition of the Sivallnv in ber naviyation tbrouji^b the Straits'— H'tib
great difficulty reaches Port Pttniwe — Is olliged to continue her voyage, after i,,r commander had rci/uejled of Qiptain
H'allis to alterber deJUtialion—On the iithqf April, 1767, is feparated from bercoiifoil, the Dolphin, ■uilheiil the Iciill
hope of feeing ber during the remainder of the voyage — The gallant iehaviour of Captain Carteret in Ibis alarming
fituaiion — The run of the SwallffW from the 'xfjhrn entrance of the Strait of Magellan to the i/land of Miifii/uerO'^
Iniidents and IraHfaflitms li-biljl tbejhip lay off this ijlvid — d/fervati'j)is—~She departs frm Mafafuero and maket
^een Charlotte' t Ijlands^A defcriptionofibeje and their inhabitants — An oljliiiale Jkirmijlj -u'tth the natives ofKgwenI
fjiand difcribed , wttb an account of their country, canoes, and weapons.
A D n66 ^^^ Thurfday the 2 1 ft of Augurt, our
"■ ■ ' ■ V-/ (hip's company on board the Swal-
low received two months pay; and the next day,
Friday the 22nd, wc weighed and made fail, with the
Dolphin and Frederick ftorc-ftiip. Wc proceeded to-
gether without any material occurrence, till the 7th of
beptcmbcr, when wc' came to an anchor In the road of
Madeira. On Tuefday the 9th, nine of our prime Tea-
men left the (hip fecretly, and fwam on (hore naked.
They left behind them all their clothes ; and took only
their money, which they had fecurcd in handkerchiefs
that were tied round their waifts. They proceeded to-
gether till they came very ncer the furf, when one of
them, fomewhat terrified at the dafliing waves, which
here break very high on the (hoic, returned to the
Swallow, and was taken on board, but the reft boldly
pulhed through. While Captain Carteret was writing
to the conful, entreating his afliftance to recover tho(c
brave but imprudent fellows, whofe lofs would have
been feverely felt, he received a melTage, by which he
was informed, that they had been found by the natives
naked on ftiore ; that they had been taken into cuftody,
but would be delivered up to his order. A boat was
inftantly difpatched to bring them on board, where
they cut a moft ridiculous figure, and feemed heartily
adiamed of what they had done. When our noble
Captain came upon deck, he appeared plcafed at feeing
the marks of contrition in their countenances, and aikcd
in the mild tone of humanity, what could be their
reafonsand motives for quitting the (hip, and deferting
the fervice of their country, at the rifk of being de-
voured by (harks, or da(hed to pieces by the furf
againft the (hore. To this they replied, that though
they had indeed, at fuch ri(ks, ventured to fwim on
fhore, yet they had never entertained a thought of de-
ferting the (hip, which they were determined to ftand
by as l'<"g »i (he could fwim t but that being well
nJTured they were going a long voyage, and none being
able to tell who might live or who might die, they
thought it hard to be deprived of an opportunity of
fpending their own money, and therefore refolved once
more to get a (kinful of liquor, and then to have fwani
back to the fliip, which they cxpcfted to have done
before they were mi(red. The Captain having deter-
mined fecretly not to inflidl the puniftimcnt by which
they (ccmed moft heartily willing to expiate their fault,
did not fcrutinizc feverely their apology, obfcrvingonly,
that with a (kinful of liquor they would have been in
a very unfit condition to fwim through the furf to the
(hip i and, hoping they would expofc their lives only
upon more important occafions, and that he (hould in
future have nocaufe to complain of their condud, upon
thcfe conditions, he would for this time be fatisticd
with that (hame and regret, which he perceived plainly
imprinted on their countenances, and which indicated
a proper fpnfc of their milbchaviour; at the fame time,
he advifcd them to put on their clothes and turn in.
being confident they wanted reft ; adding, that ni good
fwimmcrs miwht probably be wanted in the courle of
our voyage, he was very glad that he knew to whom
he might apply. Captain Carteret endeared himfcif
verv much to thcC: men by this ail of tcndernefi, and
he had fcarcely difmilTed thcnj when he was infinitely
gratified by the murmur of fatisfacftion which inftantly
ran through the fliip's company ; and the future con-
duct of the offenders amply repaid his well timed
lenity, there being no fuvice, during all the toils and
dangers of the vny.igc, which they did not perform,
with a zeal and alacrity that Mere much to their
honour, and our advantage, as an cxanhplc to the
reft.
Friday the 1 2th of September, we failed out of the
road of Madeira ; and were now convinced, wc were
fent upon a fervice, to which the Swallow and her
equipment were by no means equal ; for this day bur
commander received from Captain VVallis a copy of
his inrtru(5tions, whoalfo appomted, in cafe of a lepa-
ration, Port Famine, in the Strait of Magellan, to be
the place of rendezvous. We continued^ our voyage,
without any material incident, till we reached Cape
Virgin Mary, where wc faw the Patagonians, a full ac-
count of whom has been given in our hiftory of the two
expeditions performed by Commodore Byron and Cap-
tain Wallis, in their circuit round the world 1 and n«
the particulars in the narrative before us arc the fame,
it will be needlcfs to recite them. With much labour,
and at no inconfiderablc rifle, (for we could but fcldom
make the Swallow tack, without a boat to tow her
round) wc anchored in Port Famine, on the s8th of
December; where we unhung our rudder, and having
made it fomewhat broader, we hoped to obtain an aa>
vantage in working the fliip, but m this particular we
were entirely difaopointcd.
AD 176-7 Tuefday the 1,7th of February, after
* ■ ' '■ having encountered many difficulties and
dangers, wc fteered into Ifland Bay ; and at this place
our commander, in a letter to Captain WalUs, fet forth
in affeding language, the ill condition of the Swallow,
requcfting of him to conUder what was bcft for the
king's fervice, whether flic fliould be difmiflcd, or con-
tinue the voyage; to which Captain Wallis returned
for anfwer, that as the Lords of the Admiralty had
ordered the Sw allow on this fervice, in coniun.it being ne«C/
* far7
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878
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD CoMFLtTt.
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fary to carry all wc could fprcad, for fear of running
foul of fome rocky illand*, which, in Narborough 1
voyage, are called the iflandi of Dircdtiom nor could
%ve now go back into the (\rait, without the danger of
funningfoul of a lce-(hore, toward* which the fliip
fettled very faft, notwilhllanding our utmoft cttbrts.
Thus circumOanced, we were obliged to ftave the
vtatcr-cadu on and between the decks, in order that
fhe might carry better fail, and by this expedient we
efcapctl the threatened deftru^Hon. Wc now got into
the open fca, after a very providential deliverance, fur
had the wind again (hiftcd, the Swallow mull have been
unavoidably loft. I-(aving got clear of the Strait of
Magellan. w% Peered to the northward along the coa(\
of Chili, intending to make the ifland of Juan Fcr-
nandes, or Mafafuero, that wc might incrcafe our Hock
of water, which at this time amounted only to between
four and five and twenty tons, a quantity not fuAicient
for fo long a voyage as was probably before us. On
the 16th, the wind, which had hitherto been favourable,
on a fuddcn Ihifted, and continued contrary till Satur-
day the 1 8th. Wcliad now failed nearly 100 leagues
from the (Iraits mouth when our latitude was 48 deg.
39 min. fouth, and our longitude, b^ account, 4 dcg.
33 min. well from Cape Pillar. From this time to
the 8th of May, the wind continued unfavourable, and
blew an inccflant dorm, with fuddcn guds dill more
violent, accompanied at intervals, with dreadful thun-
der, lightning, rain, and hail. In our paflagc along
this coaft wc uw abundance of fea birds ; among which
were two forts, one like a pigeon, of a dark brown
colour, called by feamen the Cape of Good Hope hen,
and fometimcs the black gull ; the other pintado birds,
which are prettily fpotted with black and w hite, and
conftantly on the wing { but they appear frequently as
if walking on the water, like the pcterels t and thcfe
our failors call Mother Carey's Chickens. During nine
days we experienced an uninterrupted courfc of dan-
gers, fatigues and misfortunes. The Swallow worked
and failed very ill, the weather was dark and tcm-
Reduous ; and the boats, which the exigencies of the
lip kept condailtly employed, were in continual dan-
Ser of being loll, as well by the gales which blew con-
antly, as by the fudden gulls which rufhcd frequently
upon us. with a violence that can fcarcely be conceived:
thofc off the land were fo boifterous, that not daring to
ihew any canvafs, the fliip lay to under her bare poles,
and the water at times was torn up, and whirled round
in the air, much higher than the mads heads. This
diftrefs was the more fevere, by its being unexpelc number
ur pieces of
litle of the
a fort with
i round it,
re than 30
of the hilt<,
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two large
ich ii faced
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pifli out of
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followed by
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criand Bay,
ght coming
ily Englifti
ild not fup-
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fliments, of
sur Captain
1 the neigh-
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; our ftation
place where
ut two yoan
a our moor-
noming the
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u, anddif-
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as to carrf
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uftaiiting lb
lat the car.
in repairing
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ic furf foon
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Cap r AIM CARTERET'i VOYAGE— for makinR Dilcoveriei in the Soutmihn Ocean. 6cc. tyt)
■II mcunt of pnMuring aflinancc from the h«Mt, «hicIoth in his cabin %
and in this he caught fo much rain water, at a very little
expence of trouble and attendance, that the crew were
never put to ftiort allowance of thii neceflitry article
during the voyage. This metbo^ of obtaining rain
water we have already particularly deicribcd, and if
conftantly pra<5Uccd by the Spanifli ihipt, which an*
nuallyeroU the South Sea from the'Maniluto Aca.'
pulco, and io \\i$v tsVixn.
The »wping aUb afforded
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Captain CARTERET's VbVAGE— for making Difcoverics in the SouTHEkN Ocean, &c. a8i
flicker from the inclemency of the weather. The fir-
seon likewife mixed a fmall quantity of fpirits of vitriol
with the water, which wa« thus prcfcrved i and to thcfc
precautions the Capttio imputes the efcapc which our
men had fo long had from the fcurvy. On Saturday the
I ith, in latitude 21 deg. fouth, and longitude 14" a^g-
weft, another fmall, low, flat ifland was difcovered, which
we called the Biftiop of Ofnaburgh'i Ifland, in honour
of hi» prefent majefty'a fecond fon 1 and as Captain
Wallis had given the fiime name to another ifland, that
Erince holds two honorary fiefs in the South Sea. This
>w piece of land, which appeared to be almoft level
with the waters edge, is well cloathed with verdure ; but
being to the fouth, and direftly to the windward of us,
we could not fetch it.
On Sunday the i ath, we faw two more fmall iflands,
on one of which a boat's crew landed, and found birds
fo tame, as to be taken by the hand. They were both
covered with green trees, but appeared to be uninha-
bited. The louthermoft, with which we were clofe in,
is a flip of land in the form of a half moon, low, flat,
and fandy. From the fouth end thereof a reef runs out
to the diftance of about half a mile, whereon the fea
breaks widi gr^t fury. Notwithftanding its pleafant
afpedl it affords neither vegetables nor water; and the
6me may be faid of the other ifland, which Is diftant
from it about five leagues. One of them lies in latitude
sodeg. 38min. fouth, longitude 146 dee. weft; the
other in jo deg. 34 min. fouth, longitude 146 deg.
1 5 min. weft, and we called them the Duke of Glou-
ccftcr's Iflands. They may be the land feen by Qyiros,
as the fituation is nearly the fame ; but however this be,
we went to the fouthward of it, and the long billows
we had here, convinced us that no land was near us in
that direcftion. Captzin Carteret was peculiarly un-
fortunate in having feen four iflands, not one of
which was capable of yielding the leaft refrcftiment
to the ftiip's company, in the important articles of
fruit and water; in confequence of which the men
became very fickly, and the fcurvy made fwift progrcfs
among them. The wind here being to the caftward,
we hauled to the fouthward againj and on the
13th, in the evening, as we were fteering W. S. W.
we loft the long rolling billows in latitude 21 deg.
7 min. fouth, and got them again on the 14th, at fcvcn
o'clock, A. M. in latitude 2 1 deg. 4J min. fouth, lon-
gitude 1 49 deg. 48 min. weft ; from whence our Captain
conjedlurcd, that there was then fomc land, not far off,
to the fouthward. From this day to Tuefday the 1 6th,
the winds were variable, and blew very hard, with
violent gufts, one of which was verv near being faul
to us. Thefc were accompanied with thick hazy wea-
ther, and heavy rain. We were then in latitude 22 deg.
fouth, and in 70 deg. 30 min. weft, of our departure.
After fome time the wind fettled in the W. S. W. which
drove us again to the northward, fo that on Monday the
20th, we were in latitude 19 deg. fouth, and in 75 deg.
30 min. weft of our departure. On the 22na, we
were in latitude 18 deg. fouth, longitude 161 deg. weft
of ]^)ndon, and 1 800 leagues weftward of the continent
of America; yet in all this run not any flgns of a con-
tinent were difcovered. As the fcurv]|was now daily
increafing among our people, and finding all our endea-
vours, from the badnefs of the weather, and the defcdts
of the Swallow, to keep in a high fouthem latitude,
were eftcdual, Captain Carteret thought it abfolutely
necefliuy to fix upon fuch a courfe as might moft pro-
bably tend to the prefervation of the veflel and her
crew. In confequence of this refolution, inftead of
attempting a S. E. courfe, in which, corrfidering our
condition, and the advanced feafon of the year, it was
fcarcely poflible to fucceed, we bore away to the north-
ward, with a view of getting a trade wind; but at the
lame time keeping fuch a track, as, if the charts were
to be trufted, was moft likely to bring us to fome
ifland, where refreftiments, of which we flood fo much-
in need, might be obtained 1 we propofed then, if the
ftiip could be put into a proper condition, to have pro-
ceeded at the proper feakm to the fouthward, and to
No. 34.
have attempted farther difcoveries ; and ftiould a con-
tinent have been difcovered, and a fupply of provifion*
procured, we, in this cafe, intended to keep along the
coaft to the fouthward, till the fun had crofted the cqui-
noxial line; and then, after having got into a high
fouthem latitude, to have ftecred cither weft about to
the Cape of Good Hope, or returned to the eaft ward,
and in our way to England, to have touched, if necef-
fary. at FalklanJ's Iflands. Wcdncfday the 22nd, in
latitude 16 deg. fouth, and not before, we found the
true trade wind ; and to Saturday the 25 th, we had foul
weather, hard gales, and a great fea to the caftward.
We were now in latitude 12 deg. rj min. fouth. and
feeing great flocks of birds, we were inclined to chink,
that we were near fome land, particularly fcveral iflands,
one of which was called by Commodore Byron, the
ifland of Danger ; none of which, however, could we
fee. On the 26th, in the morning, we were in latitude
10 deg. fiuth, and in 167 detj. weft longitude. We
kept nearly in the fame parallel, hopins to fail in with
Solomon's Iflands, this being the latitude in which the
fouthermoft of them is laid down. At this time we had
a ftrong trade wind, with violent fqualls, and mu^h
rain.
On Monday the 3rd of Atiguft, we were i deg. to
the weftward of the fituation of thofc iflands in the
charts; and about 2100 leagues diftant from the con*
tinent of America. Wc were this day in latitude
lodeg. 18 mn. fouth, and in 177 deg. 30 min, eaft
longitude by account; yet it was not our good fortune
to fail in with any land; but probably we might pafs
near fomc. which thehazinefs of the weather prevented
our feeing; for in this run great numbers of fca-bird*
were frequently hovering about the fliip : however,
obfcrves Captain Carteret. " as Commodore Byron, in
his laft voyage failed over the northern limits of that
part of the ocean in which the iflands of Solomon arc
faid to lie, and as I failed over the fouthem limits
without feeing them, there is great reafon to conclude,
that, if there are any fuch iflands. their fituation. in all
our charts, is erroneoufly laid down." This day the
current was obferved to fet ftrongly to the fouthward,
though it had hitherto, from the Straits of Magellan,
ran in a contrary direcflion ; whence we concluded, that
the paflagc between New Zealand and New Holland
opcned'here in tbis latitude. The difficulties which
our able navigator had to contend with, will appear xo
have been as great as the beft feamen and the firmeft
minds were capable of making head againft, from the
following defcription which he gives of his perplexity
at this time. " Our ftock of log-lines, obfcrves the
Captain, was now nearly exhaulfed. though we had
already converted all our fifhing lines to the fame ufc.
I was for fome time in perplexity how to fupply this
defed ; but upon a very diligent enquiry found that we
had, by chance, a very few fathoms of thick untarred
rope. This, whicl. ;•» our fituation. was an ineftimable
treafure, I ordered to be untwifted; but as the yarns
were found to be too thick for our purpofe. it became
neceffary to pick them into oakham ; and when tliis
was done, the moft difficult partof the work remained 1
for this oakham could not be fpun into yarn, till by
combing, it was brought into hemp, its original ftate.
This was not feamcns work, and if it had, we (liould have
been at a lofs how to perform it for want of combs,
and it was neceffary to make thefe before we could try
our flcill in making hemp. Upon this trying occafion
we were again fenfible of the danger to which we were
expofed by the want of a forge: neceflity, however, the
fmitful mother of invention, fuggefted an expedient.
The armourer was fet to work to file nails down to a
fnaooth point, with which was produced a tolerable fuc- •
cedaneum for a comb ; and one of the quarter mafters
was found fufficiently fliilled in the ufe of this inftru-
wcm to render the oakham fo fmooth and even, that
we contrived to fpin it into yarn, as fine as our coarfe
fmplements would admit ; and thus wc itudp tolcrabi«
log.lines, although we found it much marc dSfi^t than
to make cordage of our old cafbtei, after thcjr had been
4 B converted
'I
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28i
VoVAGfeS ROUNd Ihd WoftLD Courtifn.
.MUUa
cortv'crtcd into junk, which was an expedient wc had
been obliged to pradtice long before; We alfo had
long befo're ufed all our fowing faiUt#inci and if
{knowing the quantity with which I had been fup-
plied was altogether inadequate to the wants of fuch
a voyage) i Had not taken the whole quantity that
had b«n put on board to repair the feine into my
own cuftody, this deKciency might have been fatal to
Us all.*
Wc had attw failed over upwards of no deg. of
longitude, in a dull Ihattercd ve^l, that, on account of
her bad condition would fcarcely amfwcr the helm, nor
Iiad we met with any fpot of earth which would aftbrd
iis elfedual relief. The fcurvy continued to make great
progrcfs : infomuch. that thofe funds which were not
tendered ufelefs by difeafe, were worri down by exccf-
fivc labour ; and, to render our Ikuation completely
didrefsful. on the loth of Auguft, the Swallow fprung
a leak in her bow<, which Iscinfg under water, it was
impofllblc to come at while we were at Tea. Our fitua-
tion was now in the highelt degree perilous; but on
Wedncfday the 1 2th, at break of day, land was dif-
covcred, which gave frcfli fpirits to our aliiwft dcf-
ponding crew, and the rrartfport of joy which this prof-
ped occafioned, may bccomparcd to that which a crimi-
nal feels who hears the cry of a reprieve at the place of
execution. I'hc Captain counted fcven iflands, and
we made fail towards two of them which were right
a-hcnd, and fay very near together. In the evenmg
wc canw to an anchor on the north-eaft fide of the
largcll and highelt of them, whereon wc faw two of the
natives, who were negroes, with woolly heads, and who
Mere not covered with any kind of clothing. A boat
having been fcnt on fliorc, the two negroes fled, and
an account was brought back by our people, that there
was a fine run of frelh water oppofitc to the fliip, but
that it would be difficult to procure the water, the
whole country being covered with wood quite to the
fia-fliorc. That no vegetables for the reftoration of
the fick could be found, nor any habitations, as far as
the country had been examined, which appeared wild,
forlorn, and mountainous. Thefe circumtlances, added
to the danger there might be of the natives attackinjg us
from the woods, determined the Captain to look for a
more convenient landing-place. On the 13th, there-
fore, at day-break, the mailer, with 1 5 feamcn, well
armed, and provided, were fcnt off in the cutter to the
wcliward, in fcarch of a watering-place, rcfrcftiments
for the fick, and a convenient fituation, where the (hip
might be laid down in order to examine and ftop her
leak. He received llrict orders to be upon his guard
dgainfi the natives, but at the fame time to conciliate
their good will, to procure which ht took with him a
few beads and other trifles, which by chance happened
to be among the lliip's company $ he wa» alfo enjoined
particularly by the Captain, to return to the (hip if any
occurrence happened that might occalion hofiilitics:
he was likcw ifc charged on no account to leave the boat,
nor to fuffer more then two men to goon (horc at a time,
while the reft ilood ready for their defence s and the
Captain recommended to him, in the (Irongell terms, a
diligent difcharge of his duty, in finding out a proper
plac»for the Ihip ; » hich fervice, of the utmoft impor-
tince to us all, w hen performed, he was to return with
all potllble fpce J. At the time the cutler was difpatch-
ed on tliis expedition, the long boat was likewife fcnt
oft", with ten men on board well armed, which foon
returned laden with water. She was dilpatched a fecond
time, but upon our obferving fame of^ the natives ad-
vancing to the landing-place, a fignal was made for her
to return ; for we knew not to w hat number they might
be expofed, and wc had no boat to fend off with afhf-
tance, in cafe they iliould have been atucked. After
our men had returned on board, we faw three of the
Indians, who fat down on the fliore, looking ftedfaftly
on the (hip for feveral hours. The lieutenant was fent
to them m the long boat, with a few trinkets, to en-
dtevour to c{tabli(h fome kind of intercourfe, by their
means, with ibc reft of the itatives ; but when the three
men faw the boM approaching, they quitted ttiefr
nation, and moved along the coalt, where they were
joined by three others. When they had conferred to-
gether, the fonner went on, while the latter advanced
haftily towards the boat. This being obferved from
the (hip, « fignal was tnlRde for the lieutenant to atil
with caution, who, feeing only three men of the natives,
backed the boat into fhorc, and offered them fome
prefents as tokens of friendfhip, at the fame time con.
cealing carefully their arms. The Indians regardlrf^
of the beads and ribbattds, advanced refolutely, and
then difcharged their arrows, which went over the
boat without doing any mifchief; opon which they ran
away inftantly iiKo tm: woods, and our people fired in
their turn, without doing any execution, not one of
them being wounded by the fiiot. In a Ibort time
after this the- cutter came under the (hip's (idc, the
maftcr who commanded her having three arrows flicking
in his body. We needed no other proof to convince
us he had aK^I contrary to the Captain's orders, as
appeared folly ftotxi h'lo own report, which was, in
fubftance, as follows: He faid, that having fccn fome
Indian houfes, but only a few of the natives, at a place
about i4miles to the weflward of the (hip, became to a
erappling, and veered the boat to the beach, where he
landed with four men, armed with mufquets and pif-
tols : that the Indians, at firft, were afraid of him, and
retired, but that foon after they came down to him^,
and he gave them a few trifles, with which they fcemcd
to be much pleafed : that in retum they brought him a
broiled ftfli, and fome broiled yams : that, encouraged
by thefe appearances of hofpitality, he proceeded with
his party to the houfes, which were not more than
20 yards from the water-fide, and foon after faw a great
number of canoes coming round the weftern point of
the bay, and many Indians among the trees : that being
fomewhat alarmed at their motions, he left haflily the
houfe where he had been entertained, and made the
bed of his way towards the boat ; but that before he
could embark, a general attack was made, with bows
and arrows, as well on thofe in the boat, as on thofe
upon the fliore. Their number, according to his ac-
count, was between three and four hundred : their
weapons were bows and arrows ; the bows were fix feet
five inches long, and the arrow;s four feet four, which,
he faid, they difcharged in platoons, as regularly as the
bed difciplined troops in England : that, being thus at-
tacked, his party found it neceflary to fire upon the
Indians, which they did repeatedly, killing fome, and
wounding many more: fiill however they were notdif-
couraged ; but maintained the fight, prefltpg forward,
and tlifcharging their arrows in almoll one continued
flight : that when our people arrived at the boat, a
delay was occafioned in hauling her oiT, by the grap-
pling being foul ; during which time, he, and half of
his crew were defperatcTy wounded : that at lafl they
cut the rope, and ran otT under their fore-fail, dill keep-
ing up their fire with blunderbuffes loaded with eight
or ten balls, which the enemy returned with a (hower
of arrows, and waded after them bread-high into the
fea: when they got clear of thefe alTailants, the canoes
purfued them with great vigour, nor would they retreat
till one of them was funk, and many of the people in
the others were killed. This is the account of the
mader, which, it is reafonable to fuppofc, was as fa-
vourable to himfelf as he could make it. I'his rafli
man, with three of our bed hands, died fome time
afterwards of the wounds they had received. It
appeared from the avidence of the furvivors, that
the Indians behaved with the greatcd confidence and
friendlh'ip, until the mader arrogantly ordered the peo-
ple who were with him, and who had been gencroufly
entertained, to cut down a cocoa-tree ; and even pcr-
fided in that order, notwithdanding the natives dif-
covered drong marks of difpleafure. The Indians
hereupon withdrew, and mudering ihcir whole force,
proved by their manner of attack, that their courage
was equal to their hofpitality. After this Sifader,
Capuin Carteret dropped all tboughu of removing to
m
iMik
Captain CARTERET'i VOYAGE— for making Difcovcries in the Southern Ocean, &c. 283
a more cliKiblc harbour, but he determined to try
what could be djnc towards putting tlic Oiip in a
better condition, while we continued in our prcfcnt
ftation.
Accordingly, Friday the 14th, (he was brought down
by the ftern, and means were found by our carpenter,
the only one of the whole crew in tolerable health, to
reduce the leak, though he could not quite Hop it.
in the afternoon the Swallow rode with her Hern very
near the (hore ; and we obfervcd feveral of the natives
fculking among the trees upon the beach, watching our
motions. On the 15th, in the morning, the weather
beine fine, the (hip was veered clofe in fliore, upon
which, having a fpnng upon our cable, we brought her
broadfide to near. It was now become abfolutely nc-
ceiTary, for the prefervation of all on board, that water
flioula be procured ; but the only fpring that had been
Teen on the idand was fkirted with a thick impenetra-
ble wood, from whence the Indians could difcharge
their arrows unperceived ; the Captain was thcrclore
reduced to the painful necedity of driving them from
that lurking'place, by difcharging the ftiip's guns, which
caufed the lives of many of the natives to be facri-
ficed ; for at the time the people were at the watering-
place, their ears were alTailed oy dreadful groans from
different parts of the wood, like thofv of dying men.
Captain Carteret had long been ill of an iiiHammatory
and bilious diforder, of a nature limilar to that which
had feized Captain Wallis ; yet, hitherto, he had been
able to keep the deck ; but this day the fymptoms be>
came fo violent as to compel him to take to his bed, to
which he was confined for fomc time afterwards. To
aggravate our misfortunes, the mafter of the Swallow
wasdyingof his wounds; Mr. Gowcr, our lieutenant,
was very ill ; the gunner and 30 of our feamcn were
unfit for duty ; among which laft were feven of the moft
healthy, who had been wounded with the mafter, three
of them mortally i the recovery of the Captain and
lieutenant was very doubtful ; and, except thefe two,
there was no one on board capable of navigating the
fhip home. It has already been obfervcd, that we were
Unprovided with any toys, iron tools, or cutlery ware,
\vhich might have given us a chance for r<;covering
the good-will of the natives, and ef^ablifhing a traflic
with them for thofe rcfrefhments we moft needed, and
^vhich they could have furnifhcd us with. Under thefe
tircumftanccs, whereby our people were greatly dif-
pirited, our commander was obliged to lay afide all
thoughts of profecuting the voyage farther to the fouth-
ward, which the Captain intended, as foon as the
prOpef feafon (hould return. On Monday the 17th,
therefore, we weighed, having called this place Eg-
mont's I (land, in honour of a noble earl of that name ;
but Captain Carteret, in his chart, has called this ifland
New Gucrnfey, of which he was a native. In his
opinion it is the fame as that to which the Spaniards
gave the namt of Santa Cruz. The place in which we
lay was called Swallow Bay ; the eaftermoft point
thereof Swallow Point ; the weflermoft, Hanway's Point.
TheN. E. promontory of the ifland was named Cape By-
ron. From Swallow Point to Cape Byron is about 7 miles
E.and fromHamvay'sPoint to the fame cape isaboutio
miles. Between Swallow Point and Hanway's Point, in
the bottomof the bay is a third point.a little tothe weft-
ward of which we found the beft anchoring-place, but
it is necelTary to give it birth, the ground near it being
Ihoally. When wc lay at anchor in this bay, Swallow
Point bore E. by N. and Hanway's Point W. N. W.
From hence a reef runs, whereon the fea breaks very
high: the outer part ul this reef bears N. W. by W;
and an ifland which has the appearance of a volcano,
was feen juft over the breakers. A little beyond Han-
way's Point it a fnull village, which Hands upon the
beach, furrounded with ctKoa-nut trees. It lies in a
bay between Hanway's Point and another, which wc
called Howe's Pbintt the diftance from the former to
the latter it about five miles. We found clofe to the
Ihore 30 fathoms water, but in eroding the bay, at the
diftance of two miles, we had no bottom. Beyond
Howe's Point, anociier harbour opens, which had the
I
appearance of a deep lagoon, this we called Carhfle
Harbour. Over agamfl its entrance, and north of the
coaft, a fmall ifland was dilcovered, which we named
Portland's Ifland. A reef of rOcks runs on the weft
fide of this to the main j and the paflagc into the har-
bour is on the eall-fidc of it, running in and out
E. N. E. and W. S. W. its width is two cables length,
and it has eight fathoms water. The harbour may be
a commodious one, but a fliip muft be warped both
in and out, and would be in danger if attacked by the
natives, who arc bold even to temerity, and have a
perfeverancc, not common among rude favagcs. Weft
of Portland's Illand, is a fine fmall round harbour, juft
big enough to receive three vefTels, which was named
Byron's Harbour. Our boat having entered it, found
two runs of water, one frefti and the other faltj from
obfcrving the latter we judged it had a communicatiort
with Carlifte Harbour. Having proceeded about three
leagues from where the Swallow lay at. anchor, we'
opened the bay where our cutter had been attacked by
the Indians, which we called for that rcafon Bloody
Bay. Here is a rivulet of f'refli water, and many houlls
regularly built. Near the water-fuie Itood one neatly
built and thatched 1 it fcemed to be a kind of council-
room, or ftate-houfe, and was much longer than any of
the reft. In this the mafter and his party had beert
courteoufly received by the natives, before the wanton
cutting down of the cocoa-nut tree. We were informed
by thole of our people who had been received here, that
a large number of arrows were hung in bundles round
the room, the floor and (ides of which were covered
with matting. In the neighbourhood of this place,
they faid, were many plantations enclefed by ftonc-walis>
and planted with fruit trees ; the cocoa-nut trees we
could difcern from the fliip, in great numbers, among
the houfes of the village. Three miles weftward of
this, we faw another village of conftderable extent,
in the front whereof, towards the fea, was an angular
kind of breaft-work, of ftone, and near five feet high.
Three miles from hence, as we proceeded weftward,
a bay was difcovered. into which a river emptied
itfclf It appeared, when viewed from the maft head,^
to run very far into the country, and we called it Gran-
ville's River. Weftward of it is a point, which we
named Ferrer's Point ; from whence the land forms a
large bay, near which is a town of great extent that
fecmed to fwarm like a bee-hive. While the (hip
failed by, an incredible number of the inhabitants came
forth from their houfes, holding fomcthing like a wifp
of grafs in their hands, with which they appeared to
ftroKceach other, at the fame time dancing, or running
in rings. Sailing on about feven miles to the weftward,
we faw another point, on which was a large canoe, with
an awning over it, 'To this we gave the name of Cape
Carteret. From this a reef of rocks, that appears
above water, runs out to the diftance of about a cable's
length. At a fmall diftance was another village, forti-
fied as that before mentioned. The inhabitants of this
place likewife danced as the others had done; after which
many of them launched their canoes, and made towards
the (hip : upon which wc lay to, that they might have
time to come up; but when they approached near
enough to have a diftindl view of the Swallow, they
lay upon their paddles, gazed at us, but would advance .
no farther. Being thus difappointeid in our hopes of
prevailing upon them to come on board, we made fail^
and left them behind us. From Carteret Point the
lind trends away W. S. W. and S. W. forming a deep
lagoon, at the mouth of which lies an ifland, which
was named Trcvanion's Ifland. There are two en-
trances into the lagoon, which, if it affords good
anchorage, is certainty a iine harbour for (hipping.
Having crolTed the firft entrance, and being olF the *
N. W. part of Trcvanion's Ifland, which was named
Cape Trevanion, we faw a ^reat ripling, caufed by the
meeting of the tides. Havme hauled round this cape,
we perceived the land trend to the fouthward, and
we contiiiued to (land along the (horc, till we opened
the weftern palTagc into the lagoon between Trcvanion's
Ifland and the main ; both of which, at thia place, ap<
peared
«84
VOYAGES ROUNDthe WORLD Comflitk.
petrad to be one continued town, and the inhabitanti
were innumerable. We found in thii entrance a bottom
of coral rock, with very irregular founding. The
natives no fooner obferved that the boat had Icit the (hip,
than they fent off feveral armed canoei, who advanced
to att;v:K her. The firft that came within bow-(hot
difchareed her arrows at our people, who, being pre-
pared, nred a volley, by which one of the Indians was
Killed, and another wounded. We fired at the fame
time from the (hip, a great gun loaded with grape (hot,
on which all the canoes pulled hard for the(horc, except
the one with the wounded man, who bring brought to
the (hip, the furgeon was ordered to examine his wounds,
one (hot had gone through his head, and one of his
arms was broke by another. The furgenn was of opinion,
that the former wound was mortal, in confequence of
this he was put again into his canoe, and, notwith(tand-
ing his condition, he with one hand paddled away to-
wards the (hore. He was a young fellow, almod as
black as a negro of Guinea, with a woollv head ; of a
common ftature, well featured, and, like the red of the
people we had fecn upon this ifland, quite naked. His
car.ne had an out-rigger, without a (ail, but in work-
manihip it was very rude, being nothinjz more than
part of the trunk of a tree made hollow. We were now
at the weftern extremity of the ifland ; and the didance
between that and the caflern extremity is 50 miles
due E. and W. A flronjj current fcts wcftward along
the (hore. The natives o( Egmont Ifland are extremely
nimble, at^ive, and vigorous ; and fccm to be almoll
equally qualified to live in the water as upon land, for
they were in and out of their canoes every minute.
Their common canoes are capable of carrying about a
dozen men, though three or four manage them with
amazing dexterity. The men have a darmg fortitude,
whichproves them to be defcended from the fame (lock
M thole who now inhabit the Philippine Ifles, lying
about 45 degrees more to the weftward, whofe contempt
of death was tcM^ aftonifhing when the city of Manilla
was defended anmft the Englifh, under the command
of Sir William Draper.
As we failed along (hore, to raifc our mortification to
the highed pitch, hogs and poultry were feen in great
abundance, with cocoa-nut trees, plantains, bananas,
and a variety of vegetable produaions, which would
(bon have re(h>red to us the health and vigour we had
lod, by the hardfliips of a long voyage: but no friendly
intercourfe with the natives could now be expefted, and
we were not in a (ituation to obtain what we wanted
by force: bcfides, great part of the crew were difabled
by ficknefs, and the rc(t were much depre(red in their
fpirits, by a continual fucceflion of difappointments
and vexations ; and if the men had been in health, we
bad hot officers to lead them on, or dired them in any
cnterprize, nor even to fuperintend the duties that were |
to be performed on board the (liip j (or even the Cap.
Uin himfcif was ftill confined to hii bed, dangeroiifly ill.
Thus (ituatcd, unable to proceed fanhcr to the fouth,
and in danger of being too late for the monfoon, he
give immediate ordeis for (leering north.wedward,
with a view to fall in with the land which Dimpier hu
diftingui(hed by the name of Nova Britannia, and which
was no •/ diftant about 1 2 deg. of longitude. In our
diftrefsful (ituation, it could not be expcded, that Cap-
tain Carteret (hould examine all the illandi we touched
ijt I curiofity muft yield to the inftindlivc principle of
fclf.prefervation { but we gave particular names to
feveral of thofc we approached i and to the whole cluf-
ter we gave the general name of Queen Charlotte's
Iflands. To the louthcrmod of the two, which when
we (irft difcovered land were right a-hcad, the name was
given of Lord Howe's Ifland, and the other was Einont
Ifland, of which we have already given a particular ac
count. The latitude of Lord Howe's Ifland is 1 1 deg,
10 min. fouth ; longitude 164 deg. 43 niin. cad. The
latitude of Cape Byron, the N. E. point of ^mont
Ifland, is iodeg,*40min. fouth; longitude i64^g. 49
min. ead. Thcfe two iflands lie exaiHy in a line with
each other, about N. by W. and S. by E. and including
the pafl"age between them, extend 1 1 leagues ■, the pa*
fage is very broad. Both of them appear to be fertile,
havea picafant appearance, and are covered with tall
trees of a beautiful verdure. Lord Howe's Ifland, which
is more upon a level than the other, is nevcrthclefs high
land. From Cape Byron, didant 1 3 leagues W. N. W.
half N. by compafs, is an ifland of a ftupendous height!
and in the figure of a cone. Its top is duped like a
funnel, from whence fmokc i(rues, but wc faw no flame;
we thoujrht it, however, to be a volcano, and therefore
called it Volcano Ifland. To a long flat ifland, that,
when Howe's and Egmont's Iflands were right a-head,
bore N. W. we gave the name of Keppcl's Ifland. It
is fituated in latitude 10 deg. 1 5 min. louthj longitude,
by our account. 1 6 j deg. 4 min. caft. Wc difcovered
two others to the S. E. The largely we named Lord
Edgcumb's Ifland, and the fmallerOurry's Ifland. The
former, which has a fine appearance, lies in htitudc
11 deg. 10 min. fouth t lougitude 165 deg. 14 min.
ead, the latter is in latitude 11 dec. 10 min. fouth;
longitude 165 deg. 19 min. ead. Egmont Ifland, in
general, is woody and mountainous, mtcrmixed with
many beautiful valleys. Several fmall rivers flow from
the interior parts of the country into the fca, and we
have mentioned nuny harbours upon the coaft. The
inhabitants, whom we have particularly dcfcribed, do
execution at an incredible diftance with their arrows.
One of them went through the boat's wafli-board, and
dangeroufly wounded a midfliipman in the thigh. They
were pointed with flint, and we faw among them uo
figns of any nvtal.
C H A P. II.
The Swallozv departs from ^ucai Charlotte's iflands — Her run to Nova Britannia — Other iflands difcwered, with x
defcriptiott of them, and their iiibaiitants — Nova Britannia found to be two iflands, with a ftrait between them—.
Several fmall iflands difcovered in the ftrait, with an account of the land and natives on each fide — The Swallmo
enters St. George's Channel — Pajjage from thence to the ifland of Mindanao — A defcription of many iflands that were,
feen, and incidents in this courfc — A geographical account of the coaft of Mindanao, ^nd the iflands near it — Errors of
other navigators corrected — The Swallow continues her voyage from Mindanao to the ifland of Celebes — A par*
ticular dcfmption of the ftrait of Macajfar — Tranfailions while the Swallow lay of the town.
TUESDAY the i8th of Auguft, we took our de-
parture from ^mont Ifland, one of the cludcr
of iflands which the Qpuin named Queen Charlotte's,
with a fredi trade wind from the eadward. On the
suQth, a fmall flat ifland was difcovered, and named after
MK Gower, our lieutenant. It lies in latitude 7 deg.
1 6 min. fouth; loi^itude 158 deg. 56 min. ead. The
natives did not differ in any. thing material, from thofe
of the ifland* we had lately left; but fome cocoa-nuti
were here procured in exchange for nails t and the in>
habiunu had intimatCd, that they would fumidi a
fredi fupply the next morning, being Friday the 21ft,
but, at day break, we found that a current had fct the
diip confiderably to the fouthward of the ifland, and
brought us in fight of two other iflands. Tbev an;
flruated nearly E,-and W. of each other, at the diitance
of about two miles. The rmallefi, which lies to thff
eaftward, wc called Simpfon's Ifland ; and to the other,
■ which
ica the Cap.
ngeratifly iir,
to the fouth,
monfoon, he
th-wertward,
Dampier hu
ai and which
ide. In our
:d, that Cap-
I we touched
principle of
*r namci to
' whole cluf.
t Charlotte's
which when
he name wai
was Egtnont
articular ac-
nd is 1 1 deg.
I. eaft. The
of E{;mont
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1 a line with
nd including
"i thepau
to be fertile,
red with tall
nand, which
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dous height,
lapcd like a
w no flanne;
nd therefore
idand. that,
ight a~head,
ilfland. It
ii longitude,
c difcovcred
lamed Lord
inand. The
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eg. 14 min.
min. fouth;
It liland, in
mixed with
rs flow from
fca, and we
coaft. The
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heir arrows,
-board, and
high. They
ng them no
red, with a
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The Swallow
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t — Errors of
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ay the ail^
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Captain CARTERET 's VOYAGE— for making Difcoverics in the Southern Ocean, kc. 285
--' ?
which has a lofty appearance, we gave the name of
Carteret's Illand. From Gowcr's, the call end bears
fouth, and the diftance between them it nearly 1 1
leagues. Carteret's Ifland is in latitude 8 dcf^. 26 min.
fouth ; longitude 1 59 dcg. 14 min. eaft, and its length
from E. to W. is 1 8 miles. As both thefc iflands were
to the windward of us. we failed ae[ain to Gower's
Illand, which abounds with fine trees, many of them of
the cocoa-nut kind. Here a canoe was fcired, the
natives having attempted to cut oif the (hip's boat ;
in it we found about 100 cocoa-nuts, which were very
acceptable. The canoe was large enough to carry
10 men, and was very neatly built, with planks well
joined. It was adorned with ihcH-work, and figures
rudely painted, and the feams were covered with a fub-
ftancc lomcwhat like our black pi'tty. With refpcifl
to its fize, it was much larger than anyone wc had feen
at Egmonr Ifland. The appearance of thcfe Indians,
and their arms, were much the fame as thofc that had
been feen more to the eaftward, only fpcars made an
addition to their weapons. By fomc figns which they
made, pointing to our muftjuets, we concluded they
were not wholly \inacquainted with fire arms. We faw
fome turtle near the bi^ch. but were not fortunate
enough to take any of them ; but the cocoa-nuts we got
here, and at %mont Idand, were of inexprcfliblt Car-
vict to the (ick. As from the time ol our leaving
Egmontlland we had a current fetting flrongly to the
fouthward, and finding, in the neighbourhood of thcfe
iflands, its force greatly increafed, we now fleered a
north. wcfterly courfe, fearing wc might othcrw ife fall
in with the main land too far to the fouthward 1 and
the badcondition of the (hip, and (icknefs of the crew,
would have rendered it impofTibIc for us ever to have
pot to fca again, if wc had been driven into any gulph
or deep bay. On the 12nd, as we were continuing our
courfe with a frcfli gale. Patrick Dwyer, a marine,
who was doing fomething over the fliip's quarter, by
Ibme accident fell into the fea : we inunediatcly threw
overboard the canoe we had made a prize ofat Gower's
Ifland. brought the (hip to, and hoi(tcd out the cutter,
but the unfortunate man, though flrong and healthy,
funk at once, and was drowned, notwithflanding all
our efforts to fave him. The canoe we were obliged to
cut up, (he having received much damage by flriking
againfl one of the guns as our people were hoiAing her
overboard.
On Monday the 24th, we fell in with nine iflands,
ftretching N. W.and S. E. about 15 leagues, and lying
in latitude 4 deg. 36 min. fouth ; longitude 1 54 deg.
%"} min. ea(h lliefe Captain Carteret fuppofes to be
the fame which were feen by Tafman, and called by
himOhnng Java: the other iflands he believes had
never been vifited by any Etiropea 1 before; and he is
of opinion, that there is much land not yet known in
this part of the ocean. One of thefe iflands is of con-
fiderablc extents the other eight are little better than
large nKks ; but, though low and flat, they are covered
with wood, and abound with inhabitants. Wc (Veered
to the northward of thcfe iflands, W. by S. having a
(Irong fouth-weftcrly current. In the night we fell
in. witii another pleafant ifland of confTdirable extent.
By the many (ires we faw, it appeared to be inhabited,
but wc faw none of the natives. We called this flat,
green ifle. Sir Charles Hardy's Ifland. It is fituatcd
in latitude 4 deg. 50 min. fouth ; and bore weft 1 5
leagues from the northernmofl of the nine iflands. On
the 25th, at day Dreak we difcovcred another large
high ifland, which received the name of VVinchelfea's
Ifland ; and is diltant from Sir Charles Hardy's Ifland
ten leagues, in the diredion of S. by E. On Wednef-
day the 26th, an ifland was difcovered to the north-
waird, which the Captain fuppofed to be the fame that
was feen by Schoutea, and called the ifland of Sc. John.
Not many hoursafter. Nova Britannia appeared, and the
Swallow entered w hat was thought to be a deep bay,
or gulf, which Uampierhaddiflinguiflied by the name of
St. George's Bay. It lies in latitude 5 dcg. fouth ; longi-
tude c 5 2 deg. 1 9 min. call. Here we caft anchor, whilethe
bojrs «ent to fcarch for a good harbour; which, when
No. 34.
they returned, and reported to have found, the united
flrength of the whole (hip's company was not fufficient
to weigh the anchon an inftance of debility foincwhKt
fimilar to that related in Commodore Anfon's voyage^
when the Centurion arrived at Tinian. It was not
until the next day, when our ftrength was fomewhat
recruited, that the anchor was brought up, and it was
then found to have been fo much injured, as to be totally
unfcrviceable. Noflfhcould bccaught.eitherbythefeine,
or hook and line: Come rockoyfters and ciockles were,
however, obtained, and in the country fome cocoa-nuts,
with wood and water. The upper part of the tree
which bears the cocoa-nut, is called the cabbage,
which is a white, crifp, juicy fubftancet if eaten raw it
tafles fomewhat like a chefnut, but when boiled is
fuperior to the bed parfnip. This was cut fmall into
the broth, which was made of the portable foup, and
being thickened with fome oatmeal, made a mo(t com-
fortable mcfs; for each of thefe cabbages we were forced
to cut down a tree, which was done with great regret,
but the depredation on the parent (tock was unavoidable.
This regimen, with the milk of the nut, relieved the
(ick prefently, and recovered them very faft. Here
we found nutmeg-trees in great plenty : they did not
appear to be the bcft fort, which mav be owing partly
to their growing wild, and partly tv. 'Keir bemg too
much in the fliade of taller trees: all the difl^erent forts
of palm were alfo found. Wc likewife received great
refrelhmcnt from the fruit of a tall tree, that refembles
a plumb, and particularly that which in the Weft Indies
is called the Jamaica plumb. Here we faw many
trees, (hrubs, and plants, altogether unknown ; but no
efculcnt vegetables of any kind. In the woods, a large
bird with black plumage was feen, which made a noife
like the barking of a dog. The only quadrupeds fome
of our people faw, were two of a fmall (ize, which
were fiippoftd to be dogs : they were very wild, and
ran with great fwiftncfs. None of the human race ap-
peared, but we found feveral deferted habitations. By
the (hells fcattered about them, with fome fticks
half burnt, and the embers of a fire, it appeared, that
the natives had but juft left the place when the Swallow
arrived, or more probably they fled at her approach.
If the people may be judged of from the appearance of
their dwellings, they muft ftand low even in the fcale
of favage life, for they were the moft miferable hovels
we had ever feen. A fmall ifland in this bay we called
Wallis's Ifland. The harbour, in which our (hip lay,
received the name of Englilh Cove; and here Captain
Carteret took pofTeflion of the country, with all its
iflands, bays, ^rts. and harbours, for the king his
mailer ; nailing upon a high tree a piece of board, faced
with lead, on which was engraved an Englilh union, the
name of the (hip, and her commander ; the name given
to the cove; and the time of coming in and failing out
of it.
On the 7th of September, being Monday, we left this
cove, and anchored on the fame day aimoft clofe to a
grove of cocoa-nut trees, where we plentifully fupplied
ourfelves with fruit and the cabba^. We called this
place Carteret's Harbour, which bemg formed by the
main and two iflands, one of them was named Leigh's,
and the other Cocoa-nut Ifland. The Captain now
refolved to fail for Batavia, while the monfoon con.>
tinued favourable : on the 9th, therefore, we weighed
anchor, and when about four leagues from land, the wind
and current being both againft us, we ftecred round the
coaft ii.to a channel between two iflands, which channel
was divided by another ifland, to which Captain Car.>
teretgave the name of the Duke of York's idand, near
which arefe«reral fmaller iflands. To the fouth of the
largeft of thchi are three hills of Angular form, which
vere called the Mother and Daughters, one of which
we fuppofed to be a volcaco from the large clouds of
fmoke that were feen ilTuing from it. A point we
called Cape Pallifer, lies to the eaft of thefe hills, and
Cape Stephens to the weft { north of which laft, lies an
ifland, which took the name of the Ifle of Man. The
country in general is mountainous and woody, and was
fuppoled to be inhabited, from the numbers of fires feen
f M'
C
on
^intkimm^ik^
286
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complete.
ort it in the night. On the Duke ol -York's llland.the
houlea vrerc lituaced a nong groves of cocoa-nut trees,
and thus formed a, nioft beautiful profpcd. Wc bi-ought
to, for the ni^ht, ind failed again in the morning, when
fomc of the Indidiih put oif in canoes towards the Hiipt
but the wind being tiiir and blowing frefli, \i wa^ not
thought prudent to wait for them. We now (leered
N. W. by W. and loft fight ol'Ne w Britain on the 1 1 thi
when it was found that what h^d been taken for a biy,
ykaa i ftrait, artd it was called St. George's ChartntI,
whilft the ifland ort the north of it received the name of
New Ireland. In Uib evening we difcetvered a hr^e
ifland, well clothed with verdure, which was denomi-
nated Sandwich Illand : oft' this ifland the (hip lay great
part (Wthe night, during which time a perpetual noifc
fcfembling the found of a drum was heard from the
Ihorc. When wc had almoft cleared the ftrait, the
weather falling calm, a number of canoes approached
jthe (hip, and though their crews could not be prevailed
on to go on boards they exchanged fome trifles with us
for nails and bits of iron, which they preferred to cvefy
thing clfe that was olfered them. Though the canoes
of thcfc people were formed out of fingle trees, they
were between 80 and 1 00 feet in length. The natives
Were negroes, and their hair was of the woolly kind ;
but they had neither thick lips nor flat nofes. They
wore (hell-work on their legs and arms, but were othcr-
.Wife naked. Their hair and beards were powdered
with white powder, and a feather was ftuck into the
head of each, above the ear. Their weapons confifted
of a long flick and a fpear; and it was ob(ervcd, that
they had fifliing-ncts and cordage.
Sailing from hence weftward, wc came in fight of the
S. W. point of the illand ; it was called Cape Byron ;
near which is an ifland of confiderable extent, which
received the name of New Hanovcr. The ftrait we
hiid now paflcd was called Byron's Strait j one of the
largcft iflands we had feen, Byfon's Ifland, and theS. W.
point of New Hanover, Queen Charlotte's foreland.
On the following day, we (aw feveral fmalt iflands,
which received the name of the Duke of Portland's
Iflands. Having completely navigated St. George's
Channcl,the whole length of which is about 100 leagues.
We held on a weftward courfe, and on Monday the
14th, difcovercd feveral iflands. The next morning
fome hundreds of the natives came off in canoes to-
wards the (hip, and vere invited on board by every
token of firiendfliip and good will ; notwithilanding
which, when they came within reach, they threw feveral
lances at the feamen on the deck. A great gun and
feveral mufquets were then (ired at them, by which
fomc were kUIcd or wounded ; on which they rowed
towards fliore ; and after they had got to a diftance, a
(hut was (ired, f^o as to fall beyond them, to convince
them that they were not out of the reach of the guns.
Soon after, fomc other canoes advanced from a diftant
part of the iflanJ, and one of them coming nearer than
the reft, the people m it were invited on board the fliip :
inftcdd of complying, they threw in a number of darts
and lances. This alfault was returned by the firirtg of
feveral mufquets, by which one of the Indians was
killed; on which his companions jumped over-board,
«nd fwam to the other canoes, all of whom rowed to
the ftiorc. The canoe being taken on board, was found
- Eb contain turtle, and fome other fi(h, alfo a fruit of a
fpecics between an apple and a plum, hitherto unknown
to Kuropeans. Thefe people were moftly negroes,
with woolly hair, which they powdered, and went
naked, except the ornair-^nts of (hells round their arms
^d legs. We now coafted along the iflands, to which
wc gave the general name of the Admiralty Iflands,
They have a beautiful appearance, being covered with
woods, groves of cocoa-nut trees and the houfes of the
natives. The largcft wc computed to be about 50
miles in length ; and they produce many valuable arti-
cles, particularly fpiccs. We difcovcred two fmall ver-
dant iflands, on Saturday tl«! 19th, which were called
Durour's Ifland and Matty's Klartd, the inhabitants of
which laft ran along the coaft with lights during the
night. Wc had (ight of other two (inall iflands on the
24th, which were called Stephens's Iflands, and which
abounded with beautiful trees. Wc faw alfo three
ifliknd^ on Friday the 25th, in the evening, when the
natives catheoH^ in canoes, and wentt)n board the fliip.
Theyt. bartered cocoa-nuts for fome bits of iron, with
which metal they did not fccm unacquainted, and ap-
peared extravagantly fond of it. They called it parram,
and hinted that a fliip fometihies touched at their
iflands.' Thefr |)ctiple were of the copper colour,
and had fine blade hail-; but their beaids were very
fmall, as tncy wcl-e continually plucking the hair from
their faces. Their teeth were c\cn and white, and
their Countenances Very agreeable. They were fo cx-
trcmelyadivethatthcyranup tothcmaft head quicker
than the failoi-s. Every thing that was given them
they ate and drank with freedom, and fccmed to have
no fort bf refcrvfc in their behaviour. A piece of fine
matting Airappcd found their waifts, conHitutcd the
whole of their drcfs, and good nature appeared to he
the only rule of their atlions. The cufrcnt carry inii
the ftiip fwiftly along, the Captain had Hot the oppor-
tunity of landing ; and was therefore obliged to refufe
gratifying thcfc friendly people in that particular,
though they very readily offiercd that fomc of their
people ftiould remain as hoftagcs for the fafc return of
any of the ofliccrs or (hip's company who (hould chu(c
to go on fliorc. Finding that their offer was not ac-
cepted, one of tlie Indians abfblutcly rcfufed to quit
the fliip : he was carried in confcqucncc, as far as the
ifland of Celebes, where he dictl. This man was
named Jofeph Frecw ill, and wc called the largcft of the
ifles. Freewill Ifland, (by the nativcJi called Pegan.)
The names of the two other iflands were Onata and
Onello;.
An ifland was difcovcred from the maft-head as w c
held on our courfe, on Monday the 28th, in the even-
ing, but wc neither landed there nor gave it a name.
Monday the I2th ofOdtober, we faw a fmall iflc which
wc named Current Ifland, from the great ftrcngth of
the foutherly curreni in thofe parts ; and the next day
two iflands were difcovcred, to which we gave the name
of St. Andrew's Ifland. The next lancl appeared to
be Mindanao, along the S. E, part of which we coafted,
feeking for a bay which Dampicr had defcribed ; but
this we could not find. I'hc boat, however, found a
little creek at the fouthcrn extremity of the iflc, near
which a tow n and a fort were feen. The people having
defcried the boat from the fliore, a gun was fired, and
feveral tanocscame off after it. . The lieutenant there-
fore retreated towards the (hip, which when the canoes
difcovcred, they retired and made towards the (hore.
We now flood to the caftward, and on Monday the 2d
of November, anchored in a bay near the fliorc, whither
the boats were difpatched to take in water. No figns
appeared of that part of the ifland being inhabited ;
a canoe however came round a point, fcemingly with
a view of obfcrving us, which rowed back again, after
having taken a furvcy of the vclFel. In the night, a
great noife was heard on the fhorc, fomcwhat like the
war-fong of the Americans. The Captain therefore
made proper preparations to defend himfclf in cafe
hoftilities ftiould be commenced on the part of the
idanders. One of the boats was fent on ftiorc for
water the next morning, and the other was ordered to
hold herfelf in rcadincfi, in Cafe her aftiftancc ftiould
be neceffary. The crew had no fooncr landed than
feveral armed men came forward from the woods, and
one of them held upfomething white, which being con-
ftrued as a fign of amity, the Captain having no white
flag on board, determined to fend the lieutenant U-ith
a table cloth in order to anfwcr the token of peace.
For the prefcnt this had the dcfired eft'cd. Two In.>
dians, who fpoke bad Dutch and Spanift), having at
laft made themfelves undrrftood by the oiHcer, in the
latter language, made feveral inquiries which chicflv
turned upon defiring to be informed whether the (hip
belonged to the ftatcs of Holland, and whether (he was
iMund to Batavia or clfewhcrc. He alfo wanted to
know
I
r E.
Hands on ihc
Is, and which
w alfo three
„ «hcn (he
>ard the fliip.
of iron, with
'cd, and ap-
ed it parrani,
lied at their
Ppcr colour,
;ls were very
he hair from
white, and
were fo cx-
icad quicker
given them
>ied to Jiavc
piece of fine
iflitutcd the
reared to be
nt carrying
the oppor-
;cd to refufe
particular,
nc of their
ifc return of
lliould chufc
was not ac-
fed to c]uit
5 'ner to the Cape of Good Nope — Anchors in Table Hay — Malces the tjland of St. Helena — Proceeds to
the iJlaiid of Afcenfon, and comes to an anchor in Cnfs Hil! Hay — Conlimifs her 'iovrftr — /i hailed hy a I'reinh jhip,
commanded by M. l}oii«ainville — Enters the F.iii^lijh Cha inel — Ami, after a tine pajfa^e, and fair ivnid, from the
Cape of Good Hope, amb-jrs at Spithead, on Saturday the icihof Manh, \-jt>*), baiin^leett abfent two years and /even
, months.
ON Tucfday the 15th, we anchored, as wc have
obfcrved, at the diHance of four miles from rhc
town of .VlacaHar, which, by our reckoning, lie in
latitude 5 dog. 10 min. S. and in 117 deg. 28 m!n. E.
longitude, having been in our run from the S'.rait of
Magellan not Icfs than .35 weeks. On Sundav chc 20th,
w e failed, at day-break, and in the aften.oon of the
enfuing day, anchored in the road of Bonthain. The
guard boats were immediately moored clofe to the
liior?, to prevent all cominuiiicatton between our boats
and thofe of the country. Captain Carteret having
waited upon the rcrulcnt,'to fettle the price, and mode
of procuring provifions, a houfe was allotted to his ufc,
fituated near the fea-fidc, and clofe to a fmall fort of
eight guns, the only one in thif^ place. The houfe
being fitted up as an hofpital, the lick were landed,
and as foon as our people were ' n Ihore, a guard of {6
privates, two fergcants, and two corporals, under the
command of I .e Ccrf, was fet over them, who were not
permitted to above 30 yards from the hofpital, nor were
anyof the natives futtered to come near enough to fell
them any thing ; fo that the profits of the traffic fell
into the hands of the Dutch foldiers, whofe gains were
immoderate ; fo great indeed, that fome ofthem fold
various articles at a profit of more than a thoufand per
cent after having extorted the provifions at what price
they plcafed from the natives ; and if a countryman
ventured to exprefs any figns of difcontent, a broad
fword was immediately flouriihcd over his head ; this
was always fufficient to filcnce complaint, and fend the
lufferer quietly away. The Captain having remon-
ftratedwith Mr. Swcllingrable on the injuftice ofihis
procedure, he reprimanded the foldiers with becoming
fpirit ; but this produced no good effed; and after this,
Le Ccrf "s w;fe fold provifions at more than double the
prime coft, while it was fufpcftcd, that he fold arrack
to ijie feamen. It was the duty of one of th^ foldiers,
by rotation, to procure the day's provil^on for the whole
guard, which fervice he performed by going into the
country with his mufquct and bag ; nor was this honeft
provider fatisfied with what his bag would hold, for
one of them, wnhout any ceremony, drove down a
young buffalo, and his comrades fupplied themfelves
with wood lodrefs it from the pallitadoes of the fort.
The Capuin thought the report of this fad fo ex-
traordinary, that he went on ihore to fe« the breach,
and found the poor blacks repairing it. On the 26th
and 27th, three veffels arrived here, one of which had
troops on board, deftined for the Band* Iflands, but
their boats not hcing allowed to fpeak with any of our
people, the t iiptain prevailed oifthe refident, to pur-
thafc for his ufc four calks of very good fait provilioas,
two being |virk, and two beef. On Monday the 28th,
above roo country vctU'ls, called proas, anchored in the
bay (if l5onthain. Thefe vcllels lilh round the illand
of Celebes, going out at one monfoon, and coming back
with the other: they carry I3urch colours, and fend the
pmi Ihe was found to have fevcral leaks; and
as little 'ould be done to thefc, we were reduced to an
entire dependance on our pumps. Her main-mad
was alfo fprung, and appeared to be rotten. As no
wood could be procured here to make a new one, wc
patched it up, without cither iron orforge, as well as we
could. On the 19th of February, Le Ccrf, the military
officer was /tcalled, m order, as was reported, to make
preparations for an expedition to the illand of Bally ;
and on Monday the -th of March, the largeft of the
guard boats, a lloop of 40 tons, was likewifc ordered to
return ti Macaflar, with part of the foldiers. On the
9th, the relident received a If ft 1 from the governor,
enquiring when Captain Caritret would fail for Batavia,
though he nuift have known this would not be before
theeaftern monfoon fet in, which would not be till May.
Thefe were fufpicious circumftanccs, which gained
flrength toward the conclulion of the month, at which
time a canoe was obfcrved to paddle round the ihip,
feveral times in the night, and to retire as foon as *>i-
was fecn. It is proper coobferve here, that the t'^-vn ot
Macaflar is in a dillrid called Macaflar, or Bony, tliC
king whereof is an ally of the Dutch, who have fre»
quently been repulfcd in their attempts to reduce otncr
parts of the ifland, one of which is inhabited by a peo-
ple called BiigguelFcs, and another W.iggs, or Toibra.
The lalt place is fortified with cannon; for the natives
were acquainted ^^ ith the ufe of fire-arms, and were fup-
plied with them from Europe, before the Dutch
fettled themfelves at Macalfar in the room of the
Portugucfc.
On TuelUaythe 29th, a black man delivered a letter
to
\
■IMI
Captain CARTERET's VOYAGE— for making DHcoveries in the Sow the* n Ocean, &c. 189
10 our lieutenant, diretfted to " The Commander of the
Ertglifti ftiip at Bonthain," the purport of which wa«
to acquaint the Captain, that the kins of Bony, in con-
jun(flion with the Dutch, had formed a dcfign to cut us
ofTi they were not to appear in the bulincfs, but the fon
of the king of Bony was appointed the principal agent.
Bcfides the plunder of the Swallow, he was to receive
a gratuity from hii employers. The letter intimated
that he was now at Bontham, with 800 men, ready to
execute the projcdl, which was formed from a jealoufy
of our being conneifled wit;h the enemies of the Dutch,
with a view of expelling them out of the ifland t or at
lead they fufpedted, that by our intelligence, a fchcmc
of that kind might be planned, on our return to Eng-
land. This letter became a new fubjed of fpeculation,
and though ill written, with refpedt to ftylc and man-
ner, yet It did not therefore deferve the Icfs notice j
efpecially when we recolledled the recall of Lc Ccrf, and
otner remarkable circumftances, which have been
already related. However, whether the intelligence,
and our conjectures, were true or falfe, it was our duty
to take proper meafures for our fecurity. Accordingly
all hands were immediately fct to work. Wc rigged
the (hip, bent the fails, unmoored, got fprings upon our
cables, loaded all our guns, and barricadocd the deck.
Every one (Icpt under arms during the night ; and the
next day being the 30th, wc fixed four fwivel guns on
the fore part of the quarterdeck ; and warped the fliip
farther ofT from the bottom of the bay, towards the
eadern fliore, that, in cafe of neceffity, wc might have
more room for adlion. At this time the rcfidcnt was
up the country, tranfading bulinefs for the company,
and, before his departure, he told the Captain, he (hould
ceruinly return l^ the ill of April. It was now the
4th, and we had neither feen him, nor received any
anfwer to a letter the Captain had wrote him; but on
Tuelday the 5th, he came on board, and a few minutes
convinced us, he was not in any refpedl privy to the
fuppofcd defign asainft us. He acknowledgeci, that a
miniller of the kmg of Bony, had lately paid him a
viflt, and had not well accounted for his being in this
part of the country ; and, at the Captain's requeft, very
readily undertook to make farther enquiries concerning
Bony and his people ; and a few days after he fent us
word, that having made a very ftridl enquiry, whether
any perfons belonging to the king of Bony had been
at Bonthain, he had Men informed, that one of the
princes uf that kingdom had been there in difguife ;
but that of the 800 men, who were faid, according to
our intelligence, to be with him, he could find no
traces. At this viiit, while aboard, Mr. Swcllingrabel
took notice of the (hip, obfcrving, that it was put in a
(lateof defence, and feeing every thing ready for im-
mediate aiAion, he faid, that the people on fliore had
informed him of our vigilance and adHvity, and in
particular, of our having exercifcd our men at fmall
arms every da^. In return, the Captain told him,
V c thould continue' on our guard, which he feemed to
approve, and wc parted with mutual promifes of
triend(hip and good faith.
On Saturday the 1 6th, the refidcnt, M. LcCcrf, with
another officer, who was likewife an enfign, came on
board and dined with us. After dinner, the Captain
alked Le Ccrf, what was become of his expedition to
Bally, to which he anfwered drily, that it was laid aflde,
without faying any thing more on the fubjedt. On
the 231x1, he returned to MacafTar, and the other eniwn
took upon him the command of the foldiers that (Ull
renuined at this place. The fcafon now advanced
apace, when navi^^ion to the wedward wouM again
be pradicable, which gave ui all great pleafure, efpeci-
ally as putrid fevers began to make their appearance
among ut, by which feveral were attacked, and one was
carried off. On the 7th of May, Capttin Carteret re-
ceived a long letter, written in Dutch, from the gover-
nor of Macalur, the general purport of which was, to
exculpate himfelf from the charge of having, in con-
jundion with the king of Bony, formed a defign to cut
us off. He denied, in the gioft folemn manner, his
No. 35.
having the lead knowled^ of fuch a projed, and re-
quired the letter tobe put into hit handst that the writer
might bebrouj^t toiuch punilhnKnt as he dcfervcd ;
but the Captain wbuld riot deliver up the letter^ know-
ing that the writer would certainly haVe been puni(hed
with equal feverity, whether the contents were true or
falfci and it mull be confeiTed, we hdd the greateft
reafon to believe that there was not fufficicnt ground
for the main charge contained therein, thdugh it is not
equally probable that the writer believed it to be falfe.
By the 32nd, we were ready to fail from this place, but
before we uke our departure, we (hall make a few ob-
fervations ; and alfo give a particular account of the
fituation, trade, and produce of the Sunda Iflands, the
manners and cufloms of the inhabiunts, dec. as thcfe
places are generally mentioned, and fame of thctii
touched at, by all our circumnavigators.
I. Of the Celebes, or the ijland of Macajfaf.
Southward of the Philippines (of which wc have
given a full dcfcription) lies the ifland of Celebes,
or MacalFar, extending from i dcg. jomin. N. latitude,
to 5 deg. 30 min. S. having the great ifland of Borneo on
the weft, and the Molucca's onthe eaft. The length xti
it from the S. W. point to the N. E. is about 500 miles,
and in the broadeft part of it, it is near 200 miles over.
The fourh part of the ifland is divided by a bay feven
or eight leagues wide, which runs forty or fifty leagues
up into the country, and on the eaft-fide of the ifland
are feveral bays and harbours, and abundance of fmaJl
iflands and fhoals : towards the north there is fome high
land : but on the eafl the country is low and Hat. and
watered with many little rivulets. This ifland is di-
vided into fix petty kingdoms or provinces, the princi-
pal whereof are Celebes, on the >l. W. lying under the
equinodiali and MacafTar, which ukes in all the fouth
part of the ifland : the reft of the provinces were ufually
under the dominion of one of thcfe ; whereupon the
ifland fometiniKs receives its name from one, and fome-
times from the other.
The air is hot and moift, the whole country lying
under or very near the line, fubjedt to great rains. It
is moft healthful during the northern moafoons: if they
fail of blowing at their accuftomed time, the ifland
grows fickly, and great numbers of people are fwept
away. They have mines of copper, tin, and gold, but
we do not find they are much wrought ; the gold they
have is found chiefty in the fands of their rivers, and
at the bottom of hills, wafhed down by torrents. In
their woods they have ebony, calambac and landers,
and feveral forts of wood proper for dying; and no
place, it is faid, affords larger bamboos, fome of them
being four or five fathoms long, and above two foot
diameter, which they make ufe of in building their
houfes and boats. Their fruits and flowers are much
the fame with thofe in the Philippines, and therefore
we (hall not tire the reader with a repetition of them,
only mention fome of the principal. "They have pepper
and fugar of their own growth, as well as betel and
arek, in great plenty ; but no nutmegs, mace or cloves :
however, oi thefe they ufed formerly to import fuch
quantities from the fpice iflands that they had fuflicieat
for their own ufe, ana fold great quantities to foreigners.
Their rice is faid to be better than in any other parts of
India, it not being overfkiwed annually as in other
countries, but watered from time to time by the huf-
bandman as occafion requires; and from the goodnefs
of their rice, the lutivcs are of a ftrongcr conftitution
than thofe of Siam or other parts of India. Their fruits
arc alfo held to be of a more delicious taftc than the
fruits of other countries which are expofcd to floods;
the plaint here are covered with the cotton (brub which
bears a red flower, and when the flower £dlt, it laves
a head about as big at a walnut, fiom whence the cotton
it drawn t and that which conies irem Macaflar it ac-
counted the Jineft in India. Of all their pbnti, opium
it what they moft admire ; it m a (hrub which grows
at the bottom of mountains, or in ftoa/ ground : the
4 D branches
t I
\
^
(
4 >'
290
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD CoMPteTK.
..
n
1
branchrs ati\hn\ a liquor which ii drawn out much after
the (aiuc manner as palm wine, and being (hip|ird up
clufc in a \rm, comes to a contilicncy, when they make
it up in little pills : they often dilFolvr f^"- of thcfe pills
in water and fprinkic their tol\-,cio w ith it ; and tnofc
uho are ufcd to take it can neVcr leave it otV: they arc
lulled into a pleuling dream, and inioxicitcd as with
ftron^r liquor 1 but it infcnlibly piTvs u|K>n their fpirits
and Ihurtens their lives : they will take the quantity of
two pins heads in a pipe ol tohacto, when they enter
into a battle, and become almoll inlcniibic of wounds
or danpirtill tht: ellett of it is worn oiK
The natives of this illand arc famous tor the jwifons
they compound of the venomous drugs and herbs their
country produces; of which, it is faid, the very touch
or fmcll occalions prcfent death: their yoiuiggcmlcmcn
arc inlhuctcd how to blow their little poilbncd darts
through a tube or hollow cane, about lix feet in lcn{{th ;
with thifc they engage their enemies ; and if they make
the Icall wound with thtl'e darts, it is liiid to be mortal.
'Ihough thcfe weapons would not be much dreaded
among people that are well cloathed, yet as the natives
engage naked, their Ikins arceafily penetrated, and the
poifun operates fo fpecdily, that it is not cafv to cure
then^: they will Itrikc a nun with thefc darts at near an
hundred yards diAance.
MiKali'ar, the chief city here, is lituatcd on the banks
of the river of the fame name, near the S. W, corner
of the illand. 1 lere the Dutch have a very ftrong fort,
mounted with a great number of cannon ; and the gar-
rilbn coiilills of Koo mer». The Urects of the town are
w ide anv.i neat, but not paved, and trees arc planted on
each iiilc ol them. 'Ine palaaes, mofque, and (."^reat
hoiifcsarc of ftone, but the houfes of the meaner fort
of wobk«V^haii^,«itaidi is tied iip.and
I dwitd t u k
covered with a turbant, or cloth wound about thcif
heads when »hey arc dreflcd, b»it at olhc timet they
wear a kind of hat or cap with little brims.
They continually rub and fupplc the limba of their
infants with oil, to render them nimble and ai'Mvc 1 ami
this it thought to be one rcafon there is hardly ever
fcen a lame or crooked pcrlbn among them.
Their male children of the Ijctterfort, it is faid, are
always taken from their mothcrt at lix or fcven year*
of age, and conuuittcd to the care of tome remote re-
lation, that they may not be t(x> much indulged and
efreminated by the cardies of the mother : they arc fent
to fchcnJ to their priells, w ho teach them to write ami
read and cart accountt, and the precepts of the koran:
their cliara*;lcrs very much rcfcmblc the Arabic, which
is not llrange, lince their aiKcrtors, many of them, w-.rc
Arabians.
Betides their books, every child it bred up to Ibmc
handicraft trade ; they arc alio taught feveral (ports ami
martial cxerrifes, if they are of quality ; but the meaner
fort arc employed in hulbandry. (illiing, and ordinary
trades, as in other places.
rhisptH)plc fccinto be irtfpircd with juft notions of
honour aiul fritndfliip, and there arc inllances of manv
of them who have cxjwfed their lives cscn in defence
of foreigners and Ch»ilUans; and of others who ha\c
gcntroully relieved and maintained people in dillrels.
and even fullered them to fliarc their cllatcs. They re-
tained that love of liberty, th:vt they were the laH ot" the
Indian nations that were enllavcd by the Dutch, which
did not happen nciilicr till after a long and very ex-
penlivc war, wherein almoll the whole fince cif the
Hollanders in India was employed. Ihc people 111
general are very much fubjcet to paiiion; and. they
will coiKlemn their own rallmels it they arc in the
wrong.
The women are remarkable cliallc and referved, :it
loall they cannot help appearing lo ; for the Icafl fmile
orglaiKc on any but their hulbands, is held a fuflicieni
realbu fora divorce : nor dare they admit of a vifit even
from a brother, but in the j)rclciKc of the hulbandi
and the law indemnifies him tbr killing any man he
(hall find alone with his wife, or on whom fljc has con-
ferrcil any mark of her favour. But the inhabitants of
this counu/ are in geiwral fo little addided to in^mous
practice*, or litigious difputes, that they have neither
attornics or bailitlt among them. If any ditTcrcnces
arife, the parties apply pcrfoiwlly to the judge, who
determines the matter with expedition and equity. In
fomc criminal cafes, fuch as murder, robbery, &c. he
has a right to execute julVicc himfclf, by dcrtroying the
ortcnder. On the other hand, the man keeps as many-
wives and concubines as he pleafcs, and nothing can be
more ignominious than the want of children, and the
having but one wife : the bve of women, and the dc-
(irc of children is univcrfal ; and according to the num-
ber of womcu aAd children the man pofleHls his happi-
neft is rated.
To proceed ; though the women of fafhion generally
keep clofc, yet upon certain fcrtivals they are fuftcred
to come abroad and fpend their time in public com-
pany, in dancing and other divcrfions ufed in the coun-
try ; but the men do not mix with them as in this part of
the world» only they have the happinefs to fee and be
fcen, which makes them wait (or this happy time with
impatieiKe.
Their princes and great men wear a garment made
of fcarlct cloth or brocaded (ilk> with large buttons of
gold, they have likewifc a very liandfome embroidered
liilh madeof (ilk, in which their dagger and purfe are
placed^ with their knife, cricc, and other little trinkets.
People of figure dye the nail of the little finger of the
left-hand red, and let it grow as long as the finger.
The women wear a mullin fliift, or lachcr .\raiftcoat,
clufc to their bodies, and a pair of iireecltes, which
reaches down to- the middle of the \ea, made of iilk or
cottoo, and have no other head drelt than their hair
tied up tin a roll, with fome curls hanging down their
necks i they throw a ktoTc piece of linen or luudin over
, . ■ . -all
ilwnJt tbdf
timet thcj
Captain CARTERET* VOYAGE— for making Difcovcrics in the Southern Ocean, &c. 291
all when they go abroad 1 nor have thejr any ornaments
iKI ihnin ahoiit their nicki. Ihey arc fonilot
but a gol „
a line eviuipajic and a great number of fcrvanta to attend
them, and it tl>ey have not lb many ot their own as their
qu:ility requires, they will not ftir out, till they have
got the ufual number, by hiring or borrowinj; them.
The furniture of their houfe« conlill thieHy of carpets
and cufliions, and the couches they (leep on. They
lit crofs-leggeJ on mats ami carpets, as nioll Aliatics
do.
This ifland proiluces moft animals except flieep.
There arc monkeys and baboons in abundance, that will
fet upon travellers s-fome of them arc quite black, fomc
of a Uraw colour, and others white, the latter of which
are generally as big as martitts, and much more mif-
chievous than the others. Some have l(»ng tails, and
walk on all-fours ; others are without tails, and walk
upright, uling their forc-fcet as hands, and in their
ajlions greatly refcmble the human fpccies. Their
going in large companies fecurcs them from the more
powerful bealls of the forclh ; but they are fometimes
conquered by the large fcrpents, which purfue them to
the tops of trees, and deftroy them.
The natives do not fcrupic eating any flelh but pork,
this no Mahometan will touch; but their food u chieHy
rice, filli, herbs, fruit and roots; Hefli they eat but
little of. They have but two meals a day, one in the
morning, and the other about fun-fct; but their chief
int'al is in the evening ; they chew betel and areka,
or fmoke tob.icco mixed with opium moll pari of the
day. Their liquor is tea, coffee, Iherbet, or chocolate,
anil they have palm wine, arrac, or fpirits, which they
fometimes indulge in, though it is prohibited by their
religion, ihey loll upon carpets at their meals, and
cat otfofdilhcs made of China, wood, filver or copper,
which are fet on little low lacquered tables; and take
up the rice with their hands inrtead of fpoons, which
they feem not to know the ufe of. In the celebration
of marriage the hulband receives no other portion with
his wife than the prefentsflie received before marriage.
As foon as the priert has performed the ceremony, the
new-married couple arc confined in an apartment by
thcmfelves for three fuccclTivc days, having only a fer-
vant to bring them fuch mceiranes as they may have
occalion tor, during which time their friends and ac-
quaintances are entertained, and great rejoicings made
at thchoufcof the bride's father. At the expiration of
the three days the parties are fet at liberty, and receive
the congratulations of their friends; after which, the
bridegroom conducts his wife home, and both apply
themlelves to bufinefs, he to his accullomed profeliion,
and flic to the duties belengmg to houfewifery, and the
management of a family. When a man has reafon to
fufpeif his wife of infidelity, he applies to a prieft tbr a
divorce ; and if the complamt appears juft, there is no
difticulty in obtaining it. In this cafe the fecular judge
pronounces the accuSd party guilty, declares her to be
ilivorccd, and fettles the terms ; both parties, after this
judgment, have liberty to marry again.
'I'hc Macaflarians had originally ftrange notions of
religion: they believed there were no other gods but
the fun and moon ; and to them they facriticcS in the
public fquarcs, not having materials which they thought
iufliciently valuable to be employed in creiovilion
while in health, by afligning a certain fum to defray
the ncccffary cxpencts attending it. As foon as a
pcrfon is dead, the dead lio the flatcounh-y near the
fea or the mouths of rivers, are for the molt part builr
with wood or cane, and Itand upon high pillars on ac-
count of the annual flood, when they have a communi-
cation w ith one another only by boats.
About the Celebes arc feveral iflands that go by the
fame name, the principal of which is lituated about five
leagues from the S. E. corner. This ifland is about 89
miles long, and 30 broad : on the eaft-flde of it is a
large town and harbour called Callacaffong. the ftrcets
of which arc fpacious, and enclofed on each fide with
cocoa trees. The inhabitants are governed by an ab-
folute prince, fpeak the Malayan tongue, and arc Ma-
hometans. The Itraits of Patience are on the other
fide of this ifland ; they arc fo called from the great
difliculty in pafllng thcih, which arifes from the violence
pf the currents, and the cpotrariety «f the winds.
U. 0/
f " ■
I ■
life 9
nually pour down, intermixed with violent florms of
thunder and lightnin^r ■ and at this time it is very rare
to have two hours fair weather together on the fouth
coaftofthe ifland, whither the Europeans principlly
refort. The dry feafon begins ufually m Aprd and con-
tinues till September; and in this part of^ the year too,
they fcldom fail of a (hower every day, when the Tea
breeze comes in.
The harbours of greatcft note, and to which the
Europeans ufually refort, are Banjar MaflTecn, Suc-
cadanca and Borneo, but much more to Banjar Maf-
feen than either of the other; thegreatcH quantities of
pepper growing towards the fource of that river, which
falls into the fca j deg. 1 8 min. S. latitude. The town
of Banjir formerly IImkI about 1 2 miles up the river, and
was built partly on wooden pillars, and partly on floats of
timber in the river; but there is now no (Ign of a town
there, the inhabiunts being removed to Tatas, about
fix miles higher.
The citv of Borrjeo, formerly the reddcncc of the
principal fultan or king of the illand, lies on the N. W.
part of the ifland, in 4 deg. 55 min. N. latitude, and is
a very commodious harbour. This city is very large,
the ftrects fpacious, and the houfes well built; they arc
in general three ftorics high, covered with flat roofs, and
the fultan's palace is a very elegant and cxtenfivc build-
ing. It is the chief feat of commerce in the ifland, and
the port is continually crowded with fliips from China,
Cambodia, Siam, Malacca, &c. The Englifh and Por-
tuguefe have fome trade here, though no lettled fatflory.
The port of Succadane4 lies on the wefl-fide of the
ifland, in 1 5 min. S. latitude, and was heretofore more
rcfortcd to by the Europeans than any other. Over
againft this, on the eafl-fioe of the ifland, (lands another
fea-port town, called Paflcir, in i j min. S. latiiudc, but
is not a place of any great tnde.
One of the moft confidenble inland towns is Cay-
tonge, the ful»n whereof is now the moft potent prince
in the ifland : this city liei about too miles up the river
I
Hanjan and about 200 nnlcs hiKtwr ftamis the town of
Negiree, the rcfidence of another fulun. The name*
of the other princi4>ul towns arc Tanjongbuoro, Scdang,
Tanjongdatoo, Sambas, Landa, Pi'ugadan, Cotnpan-
jang Sampit, Tanjong, Selatan, Gonwarengen and Po-
manoocan.
Their chief rivers are, 1. Banjar. a. Tatas. 3. Java.
4. Succadaru-ai and, 5. Borneo.
Banjar in a fine river, riflng in the moimtains in the
middle of the illand, and, running fouth, difcharKCs it'*
fclfintoa Kay on the S. E. part of the ifland, being
navignbL for fcveral hundred miles ; the banks are
planied with tall ever-green trees. The river Tatai
falls into the mouth of Banjar Kivcr, am\ is frc.
quently called the China River, beciiifc the Chinajunks
lie in the mouth of it. The rivers Java and Succa-
danca run from the N. E. to the S. W. and fall
into the bay of Succadanea in the S. W. part of the
ifland.
The river Borneo &1U into the bay of Borneo, in the
N. W. part of the ifland. The tides in the river Ban-
jar flow but once in a^ houn, and that in the day-time t
they never rife more than half a foot in the night (un-
lefs in a very dry feafon) which is occafioned by the
rapid torrents, and the land winds blowing very ftrong
in the night-time. There lie three iflands within the
entrance of the river, the firft of which is co\'cred with
tall trees, that may be Icen at ten, and are a good mark
for (ailing over the bar. If a fliip be aground, the ebb
is To very ftrong, occafloned by the land floods, that
ihe will run the hazard of beiiw broke to pieces ; and
the trees continually driving down the river, render
the navigation ftill more dangerous. The bcft anchor-
ing place is a mile or two within the river; it is br{l
to fail up with the flood, the tide of ebb runs fo ftror^.
There are a great many line bays and harbours uii :l:r
coaft, but that moft reforted to is at the mouth of the
river Banjar.
The natives of Borneo confift of two diflerent peo-
ple, that are of difierent religions; thofe upon the lea
coaft are ufually called Banjareena, from tne town of
Banjar, to which moft nations refon, to trade with them.
The Bonjareens arc of a low ftaturc, very fwarthy, their
features bod, rcfembling much the neratMs of Guinea,
though their complexion are not fodarlc ; they are well
proportioned, their hair is black, iivi fliincs with the
oil with which they perpetually ettut it. The women
are of a low ftaturc and fmall Kmbs, as the men are,
but their features and complexion much better, and
they move with a oood grace. The lower clafs of
people go almoft naked i iSey have only a litde bit of
cloth before, and a piece of linen tied about their heads.
Their betters, when they are drefled on davs of cere-
mony, wear a veft of red or blue filk, and a loofe piece
of filk or fine linen tied about their loins, and thrown
over their left flioulder. Thev wear a pair of drawcra,
but no ftiirt, and their legs ana feet are oare ; their hair
is bound up in a roll, and a piece of muflin or callico
tied over it ; they alwavs carry a crice or dagger in
their fafli when they go abroad. The Byaios or moun-
uinccrs are much tuler and larger bodied men than
the Banjareens, and a braver people, which their fltua-
tion and manner of life may account for, being inured
to labour, and to fi>llow the chace for their dauy food ;
whereas th« Banjareens ufe very little excrcifc, travelling
chiefly by water. The Byaios have fcarce any cloath-
ing, but, not admiring their tawny Ikins, paint their
bodies blue, and, like all other people that live in hot
climates, anoint themfelves with oil, which fmells very
ftrong; and the better fort, it is faid, pull out their fore-
teeth, and place artificial ones, made of gold, in their
ftead ; but their greateft ornament confifts of a number
of tygers teeth, which are ftrung together, and worn
about the neck. Some of them arc very fond of having
lam can j to obtain which, they make holes in the
foft parts of them when young ; to thcfe holes arc fiiften-
ed weights about the breadth of a crown piece, which i*
continuallyprcflingon the cars.and expand them tofuch
a length, as to cauTe them to reft upon the flwuldecs.
4 The
i\
l^im
the co«n vt
Tbc iMiitet
on, ScJang.
Cotnpaiw
n ami Cu.
• J* Java.
itaini in the
fcharKCs it'*
land, being
banks are
river Tatai
mi ii rrc>
Chinajunlcs
iiid Succa-
and fall
part of the
neo, in the
river Ban>
day-time i
night (un>
ncd bv the
very rfrong
Mithin the
ivcrcd witii
good maric
ltd, the ebb
Doudi, that
>iccet| and
ycr, render
tcfl anchor-
r; it it bcH
s fo rtror^.
GUIS oil trie
outh ot the
Tcrrnt peo-
pon the lea
pe town of
: with them,
arthy, their
of Guinea,
ley are well
n with the
Phe women
le men are,
better, and
ler ciafs of
little bit of
heir heads,
iva of cere-
ioofc piece
nd thrown
>f drawcra,
their hair
1 or callico
dagger in
! or moun-
mcn than
:heir fitua.
ing inured
laily food ;
travelling
ny cimth.
aint their
ive in hot
Tiells very
their forew
, in their
a number
and wont
9f having
ies in the
>te fiiften-
, which it
mtofuch
•uldeis.
Tile
Cai"i ain'C'ARTRREI 's' V(1YAC}E— for mal-.inp Dilcovoiics in the SoiiTHr.RN Ocn\ ,, vki, sqj
I'hc Iknjarcens are an ftofpitihlc li icmlly people,
where they are not »\viM. or auprchcml forcignera have
a liclij^n upon their liberties i they firm to he men of
Ijofxi fi-nfc, but m)t being acqoijintcd with the world,
are (rnjiioiuly impofcd upon in their traffic with the
« r.ifty (Ihind'c. The chief part of their foo»l here i«
riic, ai it ii in other hot countries, hut with it they
CM veiiiCon, fllb, or fowl, ami almoft all kind of meat,
except \v)^r•i flclh I and men of fi|^ure arc fcrveil in jjold
or (ilver plate t the common people arc content with
brafs or earthen ili(hc«, and all lit crofi-legged upon
mat or carpers at their meals, ami indeed almoll all
il.iy long, chewing iietcl and arek.or fiiioaking tobacco,
which lK)th fexes arc very fond of when it is mixed with
opium. The whole ccr grows on the fame tree as the black |>cppcr dues,
and Iwais twice the price: it is conjccJlurcd to be the
bed of the fruit that drops of itfelf, and is gathered up
by the poor people in fmall quantities, before it turns
black, aitd the fcaicity of it oc(;alions it to be fo dear;
but wc fcemto want a nioie fatisfadlory account of this
matter.
The animals here are the fame as on the continent of
India, vi?.. bears, tygers, elephants, bulfalocS, deer, &c.
but the mod remarkable am'iVial, and which is aimofl
peculiar to this in,jnd, is that monllrous monkey called
the orun-outang, dr man of the woods, near fix feet high,
and walks upon his hinder legs. He has a face like a
man, and is not fo ugly as fome of the human fpccics,
particularly the Hottentots ; he has no tail, or any hair
on his bo to md
weight, lead, i n. ocs, cutlery wares, iron barn,
fmall (Iccl h»ri, li , iht ff^iallcll ((irx of fpike nails,
twcnry-iitnny nails, aplini* d 40 poind* »^ eight, red
leather \)oot», /p«l, !«.«, i) ck-«ork '"mall arms with
brafs mountihgt, h' 'r \yiUiU, 1 ' ;dtrliulHs, gun-
|)owder and lo'kini; lalfcs. The] chafing gold is »
proliialiie article, and Jiamonds mav x bad rciiloniMy,
though they arc generally fmall (ifif'K. hey iffviul »»->
chale (,'ol(| with dollars, giving a ( crr«in ounit . vf
filver dollars for the weight of one ilollar in gnh* I ho
current money is dollars, halfand quarter iloll. and
for finall change they have a fort of money , e of
lead in the form of rings, which are ftrung ort;' V iid of
dry leaf.
The language of the inhabitants on the coaft is.thc
Malayan ; hut the illamlers have a language peculiar to
theml'elv.s. and both retain the fuperftitious cuitoms
ot ttic C'hinele. 'I lu y are intirely ignorant of alho-
nomy; and when an edipfe happens, they think the
world is going to he ilellroyeil. Arithmetic they know
hut little of; and their only method of calculating, is,
by parallil lines and moveable buttons on a board.
They havr likewife little knowledge of phyfic; and the
lettui;;()l blood, how ilefpcrate loevcr the cafe of the
patient may be, is to them a circumftance of -a very
al.inning nature, as they fuppofc, by the' opcriuiwi,
we let out our very fouls and lives. It is their.opinion,
that mod of thiir dillempcrs are caufcd througlvthe
nnlice of fome evil demon; and when a perfon i» fick,
indeid of applying to medicine, they make an cntcr-
tunn.ent ot' various kinds of provitions, which they
hold under fome confpicuous tree in a field ; thcfc pro-
yili.ms, which conlift of rice, fowl, filb, &:c. they offer
foe the relief of the perfon afllided; and if he recover,
they repeat theolfering, by wav of returning thanks, for
the blelling received 1 but if the patient dies, they cx-
prels their refentment againll the fpirit by whom he
is liippofed to have been afflided. Hoth Pagans and
Mahometans allow a plurality of wives and cpncubines;
and the marriage ceremonies of both are the fame asiii
other Mahometan countries. The girls are generally
married at the age often, and leave child-bearing bc-
f irj they are twenty-five. The women arc very coiv-
llant alter marriage; but are apt to bellow favours with
great freedom when tingle; and however indifcrcet
they may have been in this point, thev are not con-
lidereil the worfe l()r it by their hulbands, nor dare any
one reproach them for what they ha\ e committed pre-
vious to their marriage. They in general live to an
advanced age, which is attributed to their frequent ufc
of the water; for both men and women b.ithe in th»
rivers once in the day ; and from iJiis pradicc they arc
very expert fwimmcrs. In burying their dead, they
always place the head to the north, and they throw into
the grave fevcral kinds of provi lions, from an abfurd
and lupcrlhtious notion that thcfc may be ufeful 10
them in the other world. Thev fix the place of inter-
ment out of the reach of the floods ; and the mourners,
as m japan and China, arc drefTcd in white, and carry
lighted torches in their hands.
In the inland part of this country, arc fevcral petty
kingdoms, each of which is governed by a rajah, or king.
All the rajahs were formerly fubjed to the rajah of
Borneo, who was eftcemcd the fuprcme king over the
whole illand; but his authority has been of "late years
greatly diminifhed ; and there are other kings equal if
not more powerful than himfelf; particularly the king
of Caytongc. The town where this prince rcfides is
fttuated about 80 miles up the Banjar River. His
palace is a very elegant building creded on pillars, and
IS open on all lidts. lkti>re the palace is a lar-^e build-
ing, coniifting only of one room, which is fct apart for
holding councils, and entertaining foreigners. In the
centre of the room is the throne, covered with a rich
canopy of gold and lilvcr brocade. About the palace
arc planted fcveral caunof, which' are fo old, and
* ' moynted
*M
■|
i ■■
^
n.
v-
«'H
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complitb.
..
,.
f)
S
ill
r
indJiUeu 01) AilH wretched cariiagcn, th«c tliry arc
Iteiihcr nrnaiitcnul nor ufelut. ')'hii prime i> cltecmcil
the (;rcatcl^ on tircounc of the runotiM he reccivet at
the |Mrt of H.uijar Vbflccn, which are vlliiiuuil at 8000
Kecct of eight per annum. 'lite king or Sulun of
egarc* ii the niort conliderable prince, nexi to the
above: hit palace ii riiuateJ at a pUcc called MctnjHinra,
■bout loinilct from Caytonue. I here ii a hamtfonie
aniKMiry before the satcitof nil nalacc, which contain*
a gmi number of hre-uruu, ana levcral caninn. I Ic
i« always on gooii term* with his neighbour the prince
of Ciyrongc, and the rcD are fubordinate to thcl'e two
primes I great homage is paid them by the natives, and
It isdillicult for a llianger to getacccfs to them: the
unlv mean* to efted this, is, by complimenting them
with foinc valuable prefent, lur avarice is their darling
pairmm and the llran^cr will be treated with refpcct in
proportion to the pretent he makes,
Sumatra ii one of the Sunda Illandi, fltuate in the
Indian (Kean, between 93 and I04dcg. ofealU-rn longi-
tude, and between 5 dcg. jo min. N. latitude, nnd 5 dcg.
^o min. S. latitude, thcequino\.'tial line running cmfs the
middle of It I havi ng Malacca on the N. Itorncoonthelv
Java on the S. E. and the Indian ocrun on the weft, and
II Soo miles long, and about 1 50 bioad. The air is
generally uiiliealihful near the coall, the country being
very hot, and very moid, nnd changing fuddenly from
iiiltry heat in the day-time, to cold chilling windx in the
n gin. It is the firll of the remarkable iflands that form
the great Archipelago of the eaft, the entrance of which
is, as it were, blocked up by this idand and Java, which
form a barrier fe|iarating the Indian fmin the Chincfc
ocean; except that in the center between the two iflands
there is an opening, w hirh ap()cars as if pur|iol'ely dc-
(igncd to admit a free palFagc for the advantages of com-
merce. This o|>ening is called the Ihait of Sunikt, the
fouth part oi which is the north of Java, and railed Java
Head ; and the north point is the fouth of Sumatra,
callcil Flat Point. Thcfc two are about lix leagues
afunder, between which (hips pafsfrom Europe directly
to Ikuvia or China, without touching at the Indies:
they ftrctch awav eaft from the Cape of Good Hope,
and make nolana till having traverfed the whole Indian
fea they arrive at Java Head.
In Sumatra are no phyficians, but they rely upon the
(km and experience oi fume good old women, who arc
acquainted w ith the luturc of their limples. The Hux
is the diftemper that ufually carries off foreigners,
againft which the fruit guava and the pomegranate are
certain remedies, if taken before the dillem)ier becomes
violent j but mod other fruits promote the difeafe.
Ikthing in cold water is efteeined another remedy for
the Hux. Tlieir water, unboiled, as well as therbet, is
very unuholefome; full meals of Hefli ought to be
n^oided, occasioning a didcinpcr called the Mort
Diichin, whicn is attended with a violent vomiting aad
purging, and ufually carries oH the patient in 34 hours.
Ihofe gentlemen that drink (Irong liquors to excefs,
ufually avoid the flux, but arc carried oft" by fevers.
The cholic and fmalUpox arc often fatal to the natives,
as well as foreigners > but they are fcldum troublcti
w ith dropfics, gout, or ftone. People who are careful
of their health, cat and drink moderately, and boil their
watL-r; nor do they avoid wine or arrack punch alto-
;Tet!ier, for thefe drunk moderately in this nioift air pre-
ftrvc, rather than deftroy health.
There is a chain of mountains which runs the whole
length of the ifland. from the N. W. to the S. E. and
here the air is fomething better rhan on the coaft; but
the European fa<^tories arc generally fituated at the
mouths of rivers near the fea, fur convcniency of trade ;
; and here three years may be reckoned a long life, the
fait (linking oufc fends upfuchunwholefoinc vapours as
. perfectly poifon foreigners that arc fent thither. The
luonfuons, or periodical windi, (hift here at the equi-
noxes, as they do in other parts of the Indian feas, blow-
ing fix months in one dii«£lion, and lix months in the
nppolirc direction; and near the coaft there are other
periodical winds, which blow the greatcft part of the
day from the lea, and in the night lime and part of th«
morning from the laiidi but theic fcarce ritend (even
miles friMii the road. Here is alfo a mountain called
Single-ilemiMid, about 40 miles S. E. of Heiicoolen,
which i» a mile In he^ht iKrpendiculari the rock* near
the well cnall arc gi-ncmlly barren, producing little bc-
liiles Ihrubn; but tnwanl* the bottom of them gruwi
fome good tiiiit>cr. The country bat a great many
fnull rivers, but none of thrm navigable imich aKnc
their nuiuthi, falling from high muuntaini, and dif.
charging themfelvei precipitately into the fea, either on
the E. or W. after a very (hurt courfc; the rainicon.
tinuing here, ai they tlo in mod placei near the equi-
noetial, (ix months and upwardi, every year, and no
where with more violence. The watCM of the river
Indaimora, during rains, look red for two miles beyond
the iiMNith out at (ca, occniioncd, it is faid, by the great
number of oaks that grow in their boggy grounds, and
are almoll covered when the flood* are highelt. 'I'he
waters of all their riven, which nve.-flow the low coun>
tries, arc very unwholcfome, foul, and not lit to be
drunk till they are fettled, nor indeed till they have
Ixren boiled, and tea or fome other whulcfume hcibs
infufed into them t and this, no doubt, is one caufc
of the unw holefomencfs of the air, it being a very
jud ohfervation, that wherever the water is bad, the air
M fo UMI.
The illand of Sumatra was anticntly, and is at pre-
fent, divided into a great iiuny kingdoms and dates, of
which Achen is :he mod conliderable, whofe king is the
mod powerful monarch in the iddfld, the north part of
it being in a manner fubjedt to him. Iklides this prince,
rhere an- feveral orancayas, or great lords, mthis king-
dom, who exercife fovereign authority in their refpcc-
tive territories j but they .-ul acknowledge the king of
Achen their fiiperior, and accept of the great officers
in his court. In furmcr times the kings have excrcilcd
fuch defpotic power as to difplace fome vt thel'c, n^
depofe others ; and, on the other hand, indances have
been known where thcfc princes have depofeJ the king,
and placed another on the throne. There have been
frequent druggies between the king sf Achin and thcfc
princes for /oweign power; and if the former has in
ibmc reigns been abfolute, he has in others had a very
limited authority. The king has the power of difpof.
ing of the crown, during his life, to fuch of his children
as he thinks proper, whether born of a wifcoracnn.
cubinc: but if the king does not difpofc of it in his life
time, there are fometimes feveral compctiton for it ; and
he who is mod favoured by the orancayas, or valTal
princes, ufualjy carries his points fo that the crown ia
eleiiiivc in theie cafes.
Achen, the metropolis of the kingdom of the fame
name, is (ituated at the N. W. end of Sumatra, in oj
deg. 30 min. E. longitude, and in ( deg. 30 min. N.
latitude, and is much the mod conflderable port in the
illand. It (lands in a plain, furroundcd with woods
and mardies, about live miles didant from the fea, near
a pleafant rivulet: it is an open town, without wall or
moat, and ilie king's palace dands in the middle of it,
being of an oval figure, about half a league in circum-
ference, furroundcd by a inoat 35 feet broad, and as
many deep: and about the palace there arc cad up
great banks of earth indeadofa wall, well planted witn
reeds and canes, that grow to a prodigious height and
thicknefs, infomuch that they cover the palace, and
render it almod inaccefTiblc; thcfc rccds alfo are con-
tinually green, and not eafily fet on (ire. There is no
ditch or draw. bridge before the gates, but on each fide
a wall of (lone about ten feet high that fupports a tcr*
race, on which fome guns are planted ; and a fmall
dream rum through the middle of the palace, which
is lined witli done, and has dcpi down to the bottom
of it, for the conveniency of bathing. There arc four
gates, and as many courts, to be pafled before we come
to the royal apartments; and in fome of thefe outward
courts are the king's magazines, and the {landings of
his elephants : as for the inward courts of the palace,
foreigners, or even the natives, hardly ever approach
lhem»
ill
Captain CARTFRET'* VOYAOK— for imkinn Difcnvcrie* in tlic Sou i iikhn Oci an, ice. it)^
ihcmi nmt iherftore •jnH tJeUnption ol chcfc it nn to
be ex}>«ctfil. B«it notwithlUmiinf» the fortilkiiimn* ol
ihit palareorcilHf. «• it ii fomctiinM called, nrcviry
mean »nA inconliiJcrablf, yet the ■vemir* t«i jt arc natii.
rally well defended i for the rountry round about A* tun
i«full of rivuleu, n»iwrt»<', and thick wixkIi nt c.iiuor
iMmboo, which are •IniiiU impenctrablr, and very h:uil
to cut: there arc fivcril little forti rrec^nt alio at pro-
per dilUncet in the iiurlhes where qnardt are planted
to prevent any furpri/.e. In the kin^'n mapcn/inci, Come
Authors tell ui, are tbtind a nuniiTuits artillery, nml a
[Hmni quantity of lirc-arnti. and that hi* guanU (onlill
of many tluwfand n\(h|hut that hi»nrcatell llrciiKth is
in hi» elephant!, who are trained up to trample u|Min
fire, and (land unmoved at the re|)ori of a cannon i but
this we Dull examuu; more partidilarly when we come
toTpeuk of the maiatenante of the priiuc, Iwth with
refpeifl to dsmelb and military fupplica, for later
iravcllvr* do ncK fr u to admire hti power or grandeur.
The city confilh i 7 or 8ooo lioule», which take up
the more ground becaufe thev are not continuoiu, ever)'
perron furrounding his dwelling with a pulhl'ado pale
chat nandi feme yards dillant from it 1 except in two or
three of the principal Wreets where the markets arc
kept, and where foreigners inhabit who cliufc to Use
near one another, to defend thenifclvcs from thieves,
robi)eric« being very co.nmon here. The harbour
which ii fo large as to be capable of containini; any
number of the largeO fliioj, is iiniimandcd by a (|iacioiiH
fortrefs cncompafrcd with a ditch well fm 11 lie J acconl-
iiig to the Italian manner, and mountfil wiih cannon.
The Englilli, Dutch, Danes, Fortugucfe, (Juziirats, aiul
Chincfe, are the chief traders in this city. The kin^
has a great number of horfes, which, ns well an the
elephants, have rich and magnificent tfappin(.^s. I le
is at no cxpence in times of war, for all M»s lubjech arc
€)bligcd to march at their own expcnce, and carry with
them provifions for three months: he only fiirnilhcs
them with arms, powder, lead, and ric •, whii.h is very
trifling. In peace, it docs not coft him any thin^,
even for the mainteiancc of his family, for his fiibjei^ts
fupply him with ail kinds of provilions: they alio pro-
vide him and his concubines with deaths. He is
heir to all his fubjcdts who die without ifl'ue male, and
to all foreigners who die within his territories ; and
fuccecdi to the crates of all thofc who are put to death.
From all which it appears, that the revenue of this
prince, though not paui in money, is very confiderablc.
The inhabitants of Achcn are more vicious than in
other places on the coalt : they ire proud, envious,
and treacherous; defpifc their neighbours, and yet pre-
tend to have more humanity than the inhabitants of any
other nation. Some of them are good merhanirs,
ef|)ecially iii the building ofgallies; and they arc very
dexterous in doing all kinds of fmiths work : they alio
work well in wood and copper, and fonie of them are
fkilled in making artillery. They live very abdemiouf-
ly, their chief food being rice, to which fomc of the
better fort add a rmnii quantity of fidi, and their ufual
drink is water. They are very fond oi' tobacco, though
they have but little ot icirown raifing; and for want
of pipes, they finoke 1,' a bunco, in the fame manner
as the inhabitants on the coaft of Coromandel. The
buncho is the leaf of a tree, rolled up with a little
tobacco in it, which r.ir light at one end, and draw
the fmoke through the other till it is nearly burnt to
the lips. Thcfc rolls arc very curiouny formed, and
fold in the public markets in great quantities.
They hold a court of juftice live times a week, for
determining all matters of controverfy, in which one
of tbe chief orancayas prcfldes as judg^. There is alfo
a criminal csurt, where cognizance is taken of all
quarrels, roblKries, murders, Recommitted in the city :
and there is a third court, in which the cadi, or chief
pricft, prelkles.whojudgcsconcerning all infringements
of an ccclcfuAical nature. Bcfidcs thcfe, there is a court
for detennining difputes between mer(:hant$, whether
foreigners or natives. An cxaft account is kept here of
all the cuftoms, gifts, fines, and commodities, bclong-
i
ing to the king, with a lil) ul all the (icrliin* whu buy
(tf hiK in.ijelly, pay the dnty, or make prclenti to him.
(Jirenders are brought to a tpwdy tii.il, and the puniftw
ment it infliv'ted iminediniely aftv their conviction. It
the ol'rme be of a triHin|{ nature, the punilhment for
the hrll tunc is the loft only of a hand or foot, and the
fame tor the fecoml 1 but lur the third, or if they rob id
a confidcrable amount, they are impaled alive. When
the hand or foot ii tu be cut off, the limb u laid on the
edge of a broad hatchet, and ihcexceutiorer ftrikcs it
with a large mallet till the amputation is perfeolcd 1 ar.J
then they put the Hump into a hollow bamlMio llulfed
with rags or moft, to prevent the criminal frtim dying by
lols of blood. After ne hai thus futfcrcd whether by the
king's command, or by the fcntence of the judge, all
the Ignominy of his crime is wiped oiV| and if anf One
upbraids him with ir, he may kill him with impunitf.
Murder and adultery arc punillied with death) and,
III this cafe the triniinal has many exetuti<'ncri, he
being placed amiillb a numkr of p
fon ; the rcll efcaping in their boats to fea.
Bencoolcnis Icnown at fea by a high (lender mountain
th.u rifes 10 miles beyond it in the country, called the
Sugir-loaf. Iktinre the town of Bencoolen there lies an
idand, w ithin which the (hipping ufually ride ; and the
point of .Sillabar extending two or three leagues to the
fouihward of it, makes a large bay; betides thefe
maiks the old Knglityi fort, which fronted towards the
fea, might have been dilcerned when a (hip came
within fevcn or ei^^ht miles of the place. The town is
almoft two miles in compafs, and was inhabited chiefly
by the natives, who buili their houfes upon bamboo
pillars, as in oth. r parts of the iflan.l. The Portuguefe,
Chincic, and EngliHi had each a feparace quarter. The
Chincfe people built all upon a floor, after the cuftom
of their country. The Englith hoiifei were after their
own model ; but they found themfclvcs under a necef-
(ity of building with timber, (though there wus no want
of brick or ttone), upon account ot the frequent earth-
quakes. The adjacent country is mountainous and
woody, and in fomc parts are volcanoes that frequently
vomit lire. The air is very unwholefomc, and the
mountains ire generally covered with thick clouds that
burA in (torms cf thunder, rain, &c. The foil is a
fertile clay, and the chief produce is grafs ; but near
the fea it is all a morafs. There is a fmall river on the
N. W. fide of the town, by which the pepper is brought
here from the inland part of the country ; but there is
a great inconvenience in (hipping it, 0.1 account of a^
dangerous bar at the mouth of the river. Tlie road is
alfo dangerous for Ihips, as it has no other defence from
the violence of the fea during the S. W. monfoons,
than a fmall place called Kat Kland, which, with the
land point of Sillabar, makes theliaven.
The
>.f 'i
i: ,.'
29^
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complete.
u
Ha
, 1
The pepper brought here comes from the territories
of the two neighb uring rajahs, one of whom rcfides at
Sindk'.'demoiul, at the bottom of a bay lo or 12 miles
to the north ; and thcothcrof Bafar. 10 miles to the call.
There two ni'mhs have hoiifes in the town, whither they
roine when they have any biilincfs to tranfadt with the
Knglilli, who pay them half a dollar duty for every 560
poun.ls weight of pepper; ami they alio pay to the
owner for every fiich quantity 10 Spaniih dollars, weigh*
ing each 17 penny weij^hts and 12 grains.
The Englilh have alio other fcttlemenis to the N. VV.
of the abine, particularly at Cattoun, lituated about 40
miles from iJencowIcn; I ppo, about jo miles farther to
the north ; Uanrail, wiiich is upwards of lOo miles north
of H'jncoolcn ; and Mocho, fituatcJ a I'ttleto the fouth
of Indrapour. There are likewife feveral good Dutch
lettlcnients on this illand, the molt confiderabic of which
is Pullainbani or Fullamb-.;-., fituatc about 1 20 miles
N. E. of Ikncoolcn. The chief article of trade here is
pepper, of which the Dutch have prodigious quaniiiics,
being under contract with the king of VuUamban, and
other Indian princes, to take it at a certain price, one
half of which they pay in money, and the other in cloth.
All other nations arc prohibited from trading except
the Chinefc. by means of whom the Engiilli get a (liaie
of their pepper, as our lliips pafs through the llraics of
Hanca. The Dutch formerly carried on a great trade
here in opium ; but as that was found to mipoverilli
the country, by drawing away its ready calli. the king,
in I 7cS, ordered only three chefls of about 1 ho poumis
eudi, to be imported ; and that if any Ihould be detected
in acting contrary to this order, they fliould forfeit not
onlv their goods, but their lives alfo.
I'ullambam is a veiy large town, and ploafantly
lituated on the banks of a line river, which divides it-
fi.lf into levcial branches that run by fourchanniU into
the fca. It continued to be a confidcrable ciry till the
year it>59, when it was deftroyed by the Dutcli, in
revenge for Ibme injuries they pretended to have re-
ceived from the natives. About this time tlic Dutch
reiluced the chief of the kingdoms in the foiiih part of
this illand ; but feveral of them were afterwards re-
covered by the natives, who have ever lince remained
indcpendant. The Dutch have feveral other factories
here; namely, (1.) limcalis, fituated nearly oppofitc to
Malacca, on the banks of a fpacious river of its own
name. The chief articles fold by the company here
arc, cloth and opium ; in return for which, they receive
gold-dulK The country is very fertile, and in the
wochIs and mountains arc prodigious numbers of wild-
hogs, whole flelh is exceeding fwect and fat. They have
likewife Ibme good poultry, and there arc various kinds
of Mill in the river. (2.) Slack, (ituate on the river
Andraghima : this is a very inconfiderabic place, on
account of the unwholcfomenefs of the air, which is
attributed to the great number of fliads caught in the
river ac a particulir fcalbn of the year, for the fake of
the roes j and the reft of the lilh being thrown in heaps,
corrupt, and exhale pcftilcntial vapours. Thcfc roes
the natives pickle, and then dry in fmoke ; after which
they put them in large leaves of trees, and then fend them
to different countries between Achen and Siam. They
call it Turbow, and reckon it a great delicacy. (;j.)
Pedang, which is fituatcd about 60 mile* fouth of the
equator, and has a fine river, where large fliips may
come up, and ride in fatety; but it is the moft inlig-
nificant fcttlement the Dutch have on this illand : it
produces but a fmall quantity of pepper; and the trade
in gold is fo trifling, as hardly to defray tne natural
expenccs attending it. Many other places on this
ifland are independant of the Kngliih and Dutch ; the
chief of which arc the following.
Priaman, it lies nearly oppofitc to Pedang, alwur too
miles N. W. of Indrapour. It is very populous, and
plentifully fupplicd with moft kinds of provifions.
The natives carry on a conlidcrable trade with the in-
habitants of Manimcabo. The Dutch had a factory
here for many years, but were at length driven from it
by tlie king of Acheifts,
licow, another very confidcrable place, which is
(itu.-'.ted alwut fcven leagues from Dalfaman, in lodeg.
S. latitude. The inland part of the country is very
high J but that next the fca is low, covered with woods,
and watered with feveral fmall rivers, which render it
marlhy. There are, however, many plcafant meadows
well ftocked with buftalocs and other horned cattle,
which arc purchafcd at a very cafv price. It likewife
alTords plenty of rice, poultry, and feveral forts of friiitj,
as durians, ananas, oranges.'citrons, pomegranates, me-
lons, mangoes, cucumbers, and potatoes : but its moll
yaluablf.- produce is pepper, with which it abounds, and
is in qualify elleemed fiipcriorto that of any other place
on the ifland. The pepper chiefly grow s at the Iwttom
of the mountains; for which rcafon thole parts arc ex-
ceedingly populous. The city ftands about two miles
from the fca, oppolite to a fmall ifland. It is but a
little mean place, for the city and fuburbs do not con-
tain 800 houfcs, which are chiefly built with reeds, and
are neither ftrong or commotlious. The king is fub-
ject to the kings of Achen. who appoints a new gover-
nor every three years, and without him the king of
Ticow cannot execute any hufinefs of importance. The
governor, tiiercforc, is the peifonapplied toby foreigners
in the tianfacting of buflnefs, and even the natives pay
him the moft diftinguiflicd refpeoK The inhabitants of
the city arc Malayans, but the inland parts arc po)"-
ll-lled by the natives, who difown the king of Achcn's
authority, and have a peculiar language and king of
their ow;:. I'his part of the country produces great
t; -ntitics of gold, which the natives cxchan^'c with
tne Dutch, or the inhabitants near thecoaft, lor pepper,
fait, iron, cotton, red-cloth, and Siirat pearls. The air
here is very unhealthy, particul.irly from July to Octo-
ber, and the people arc very lubject r<> fevers, which are
fo violent in their laturc, as icidom to admit of a cure ;
fo that were it not for the pepper, no ftiangcr would
venture to go near them. Kvery pcrlbn who trades to
this place, muft have a liicnce lijr that j)urpofe from
tiic king of Achen ; and when that is obtained, they
cannot be interrupted either by the king or governor
of Ticow. They fell their pepper by bahars of 116
|iounds avoirdupois : and the king of Achen has 15 per
cent, out of all that is fold, that is, fcven and a half for
the export ol tile pepper, and fcven and a half for the
import of the merchandize given in exchange for that
commodity.
Htrras, which belongs to the king of Achen, is one
ofthemort conlidcrable places on the weftcoaft; it is
iituatcd on a flne river near the center between Ticow
and Achen, and, like the former, no perfon muft trade
here without permiflion fioin the king. This place
produces great plenty of gold, camphir.-, and benjamin,
the latter of which fcrves the natives inltead of money
The country is very plcafant, and abounds with rice,
and feveral forts of the moft delicious fruits. The
Dutch and Englifti, as alfo the inhabitants of the coaft,
buy up the camphirc here, in order to carry it for Surat,
and the ftraitsof Sunda.
The province of Andziijzi is fmall, but remarkable
f<)r producing great quantities of pepper: and gold is
cheaper here than in any other part ol the ifland.
Jamly is fituatcd on a river on the eaft-lide ol the
ifland, about 50 miles from the fea, in 2 deg. .S. lati-
tude. Great quantities of pepper arc produced in it,
which is laid to be much fuperior in quality to that
of Andrigri. The Dutch had a factory here, the molt
conlidcrable of all their fettlements on the coalt, but
they withdrew from it in 1710. 1 he Kni'liih had like-
wile a fadtory near it, which they alfoquitted on account
of the obftructions they met with from the Dutch in
their trade.
Pedir is fituatcd about 30 miles eaft of Achen, and
is a large territory 1 it has the advantage of an excel-
lent river. The foil is very fertile, and the country
produces fuch quantities of rice, that it is called the
granary of Achen. It alfo produces a large quantity
of (ilk, part of which is wove by the natives into
ftutii, that arc valued in molt parts throughout the
ifland,
Cavtain CARTERET'S VOYAGE— for making Difcoverics in the Southkrn OcKAN.fcc 297
Jl
idand, and the reft is fold to the inhabitants of the coaft
ofCoromandei. . _. , .
PalFaiiiian, almoft under the equinO(ltial, is a large
place, fitiiated at the foot of a very high mountain, but
IS remarkable only for producing pepper, which is both
large and excellent in its quality.
Cinquele produces annually a large quantity of cam-
phire, which the inhabhants of Surat, on the coaft of
Coromandel, purchafc for 1 5 on 6 rials the cod", or 28
ounces. Daya abounds in rice and cattle.
In the idand of Sumatra, they have a fmall breed of
horfcs ; they have alfo buffaloes, deer, goats, hogs,
tygers, hog-decrs, nionkics, fquirrels, guanoes, porcu-
pines; alliga.ors, fcrpents, fcorpions, niulkatocs, and
other infeds : from the hog-deer is obuined a fpecies
of the bezoar-ftone, which is of a dark brown colour,
and hai two coats; a fmall quantity of this ftone, dif-
folvcd in any liquor, will remove an opprcfllon.of the
ftomach, rectifies foul blood, and reflorcs the appetite :
it is alfo very ellii'acious in other difordcrs incident to
haman nature. Here arc alfo hens, ducks, and other
poultry ; pigeons, doves, parrots, parakeets, maccaws
and fmall birds; fca and river fifti alfo are very plenti-
ful, and turtle or fea tortoife. They have elephants,
but they arc fuppofcd not to be natives. Rice if much
the greateft part of their foot! in all their meals : ftrong
foup. made of flcfli or fifti, and a very little meat high
feaioned, ferves to cat with their rice. The Maho-
metans that inhabit the coaft, abftain from fwines Hefti.
and from ftrong liquors, as they do in all countries of
the fame faith. The mountaineers will cat any ftefli,
except beef, the bull being one of the objeds of their
worfliip, and if uc could give any credit to their neigh-
bours, the people of Achen, they eat human flcfti ; but
the world is pretty well fatisfied by this time that there
are no nations of cannibals. Their common drink is
tea, or plain water j but they fometimes ufe the liuuor
of young cocoa-nuts, which is very coaling and plealant.
They always ftt crofs-legged on the floor at their meals.
Their falutations arc much the fame' as in other Afiatic
countries.
Learning is not to be cxpeifled here. The common
language is the Malayan tongue, and the koran and re-
ligious books of the Mahametans are written in Arabic,
which is now a dead language. They have indeed the
ufe of letters here, as they have almoft in every other
caftern nation except China ; but thofc gentlemen were
fo felf-fuftictcnt, fo much above being taught by peo-
ple they look upon as their inleriors, that they have now
the Icart pretence to learning of any nation on the face
of the earth. The Mahometans of Sumatra fpcak and
write the Malayan language. The Pagan mountaineers
have a language peculiar to themfelves. As the Ma-
layans write iron) the right-hand to the left, the
mountaineers write as wc do, from the left-hand to
the right; and inflcad of pen, ink, and paper, they
write, or rather engrave, with a ftilc on the outfide of
a bamboo cane ; the Malays, indeed, ufe ink and a
coarfe brown paptr. Both nations are poor accomp-
tants, and are forced to make ufe of the Banians that
relide amongft them as their clerks, when they have
any conftdcrable accounts to make up, the Banians
being faid to be potreft'ed of great abilities in this par-
ticular, and arc alfo fome of the iharpcA traders in the
world.
The inhabitants of this iftand are in general of a
modcratie ftature, and a very fwarthy complexion: tticy
have black eyes. Hat faces, and high cheek bones : their
hair is long and black, and they take great pains to dye
their teeth black : they likcwife bclmear themfelves
with oil, as in other hut countries, to prevent being
ftung by the infee^s ; and let their nails grow exceed-
ing long, fcrapinj; thcin till they arc tranfparent, and
dying them with vcrmillion : the poorer fort go almoft
naked, having only a fmall piece of cloth faftcned round
the waift; ami aboui their heads they wear a piece of
linen, or a cap made of leaves, rcfcmbling the crown
of a hat } but they have no fliocs or ftockings. The
better fort wear drawers or breeches, and a piece of cal-
No. 36.
licoor fi k wrappeil aliout their loins, and thrown ovcj-
the left ftioulder, and they wear fand.iU on their feet,
when in towns. They arc very proud and icvcngclul
in their difpofitions; and are fo imlnlfMit, that they will
iicither endeavour to improve thi-inrdvcs in arts and
fcicnccs, orin hulbandry, but fuller ihcir luanufadurcs
to be ncgleded, and their lands to lie without cultiva-
tion. If foreigners, therefore, were not to ftipply their
dcfedts, they would in all probability fulFcr themfelves
to be reduced to a favagc ftate, and only preferve their
cxiftencc, like the beafts of the country, with what the
earth fpontancoufty produces. The king has no other
ftandiiig forces than his guards, but depends on his
militia, which, as wc hinted above, areas numerous as
the people in his kingdom, all who are able to bear
arms, are obliged to appear under arms whenever thejr
are fiimmoncd. They have fcarce anv fortified towns
and caftles, but what arc natural ; and the country feems
to be fo inaccelliblc. thut the natives boaft it has never
been conquered by any f ireign power ; but this murt be
a miftake. for the prcfent generation, who arc mafters
of the north part of the illand and the fea-coaft, are
not the original inhabitants, but came from Kgypt and
Arabia, and having driven the Pagans up into the
mountains, fucceedcd them on the fea-coafts. Thii
religion of Mahomet is profelFed at Achcii, and upon
all the coafts of Sumatra ; but they are not fuch bi-
gotted zealots as they arc in fome other Mahometan
countries. Their temples or mofques are but meanly
built, fome of them no better than cottages. The
chief pricft reftdes at Achen, and has a great influence
on aftuirs of ftate. Tiieir marriage contradls are made
before their pricfts, who are judges in ci-.fes of divorce,
as well as in civil caufes. Their prierts alfo aftift at their
celebration of their funeral rites, as in other Mahometan
ftatcs.
This, as well as the reft of the Indian iflands, was,
no doubt, firft peopled from the ncighhouringconti-
nent. The Phoenicians, tlgyptians, and Arabians after-
wards trafticed with them ; and wc find Solomon dc-
firing Hiram, king of Tyre, to fend him fkilful mari^
ncrs to pilot his fleet into thefe feas ; and the Ophir
mentioned in fcripture, is fuppofed to be this very
ifland, from whence he fetched his gold. The Ara-
bians and other nations bordering on the red-fea, after-
wards planted colonies here, and became fo potent,
that they drove the former inhabitants up into the
mountains, and poftefled the coaft. The Portugucfe
found the defcendants of t'lofe nations fixed on the
Ihores of the Indian continent as well as the iftands
when they arrived there. The Portugucfe enjoyed the
fole traflic with this and the adjacent iflands for near
1 00 years, viz. from the year 1500 almoft to the year
of our Lord 1 6oo, when other nations followed them
round the Cape of Good Hope, and put in for a Iharc
of the Indian trade. Some writers affurc us, that this
kingdom has been ever governed by queens ; others
aftirm that there never was a queen regent here ; we
may, however, take the middle way, and allow that
it has been fubjcdt both to kings and queens : certain
it is, a king was upon the throne when we firft vifitcd
this ifkind, bccaufe we have his letter which he w rote
to queen Elizabeth, and kings have of late years filled
that throne.
The inhabitants of the mountains are governed by
the chiefs of their refj>c it blows ftill harder, and the
ipins continue very heavy till the middlcof February ,when
both the windand rahis become more moderate and de-
crealCj till thccndotMaich. Their fair rcafoncominencei
in April, the winds arc then variable, and it is fomctinics
calm, only at the change of the moon there arc fuddeii
gufts of wind from the weft. In the beginning of May
theeaftem hionfoon becomes cqfiftant, and in June and
July there is a little rain ; but in this monfoon they have
generally clear, wholefome weather, until the end of
September. In Qftober the eafterly wind blows faintly,
and in November the wefterly monfoon fcts in again;
when the wcfteriy wind and currents arc ftrongcft here,
namely, in December, January and February, there \i
no failing againft them. The eafterly winds and cur-
rents are more moderate; fliips may fail againft this
monfoon, and a fliip may come from the wcftward
through the ftraits of Sunda to Batavia almoft at any
ti«ic. There is good anchorage on the Java fide, in
20 or 30 fathonris water : near the coaft of Java and
Borneo, from April to November, they have land and
fea breezes from different poinu ; the wind blows from
the land between one and four in the morning, and con^
tinues till noon ; at one or two in the afternoon it blows
frefli from the fea for five or fix hours.
A chain of mountains runs through the middle of
the ifland ftom E. to W. which arc covered with fine
woods. It is faid thcfc mountains produce great quan-
tities of gold ; but the natives conceal it from the Eu- '
ropeans. The moft diftinguiflicd of thefe mountainfl
is called the Blue Mountain. The low lands are flooded
in the time of the rains. Along the north coaft of Java
are fine groves of cocoa-nut trjees, and wherever we fee
one of tnefc groves, we do not fail to meet with a vil-
lage of the natives.
The ifland was antiently divided into abundance of
petty kingdoms and ftates, and when admiral Drake
vifited this ifland in his voyage round the globe, in
the year 1579, he relates there were five kingdoms in
it. We may now divide it into two parts, t . The north
coaft, which is under the dominion of the Dutch; and,
2. The fouth coaft, fubjcdl to the kings of Palamboan
and Macarara. Bantam was, till lately, the moft con-
fiderable kingdom of Java, but this king is now a vaflal
to the Dutch. We ftiall heregive fomc account of that
city.
bantam, once the metropolis of a great kingdom,
(till the Dutch deftroyed it, and dcpofed the king,)
is feated in a plain at the foot of a mountain, out of
which iflues three rivers, or rather one river dividing
itfelf into three branches, two whereof furround the
town, and the other runs through the middle of it.
The circumference of this city, when in its glory, was
not lefs than 1 2 miles, and very populous. It lay
open towards the land; but had a very good wall
to the fea, fortified with baftions, and defended by a
numerous artillery; and the palace, or rather caftle,
where the king refided, was no mean fortification!
befides which there were feveral public buildings and
palaces of the great men, which made no ordinary figure
m this country. It was alfo one of the grcateft ports
in the eaftcrn feas, to which all nations rcfortcd, but ia
now become a wretched poor place, and has neither
trade or any thing to render it dcfirable. The principal
inhabitants are removed, and the buildings ruined, their
king deprived of his fovercignty, and Income a vafliil
to the Dutch.
Batavia, by the Indians named Jacatra, and by the
natives and Chincfe Calacka, or Calappa, as they call
the fruit of the cocoa-trees, (which arc very common
here, and faid to be fupcrior to any in the Indies) lie*
in 6 deg. S. latitude, longitude from London 106, and
ftands about 40 miles to the eaftward of Bantam ; it is
ficuated at the bottom of a fine bay, in which there are
17 or 1 8 fmall iflands, which break the violence of the
winds and waves; infomuch that 1000 fail may ride
here very fecurely. Two lai^ge piers runs out half a
mile into the fea, between which 100 flaves arc con-
ftantly employed, in uking up the mud and foil which
is waihed out of the town, or the mouth of the river
would be foon choaked up. The city of the fame name
ftands in a flat country, and is almoft fquarc, and ab9Ut
the bignefi of Bciftol, regularly built like the towns in
Holland,
Captain CARTERET'8 VOYAGE— for making Difcovcries in the Southern Ocean, &c. 299
Holland, but with white ftonc. Iheir ttrccts arc wide
and ftrait, artd in 12 or 15 of the principal are canals,
faced with ttone, and planted with ever-grcens: the
fides of the ftrects alfo are paved, and over their canals
are reckoned no Icfuhan 56 ftonc bridges ; after which
defcription there cannot be much occaiion to tell the
reader that the place is extremely plcafant, and that
travellers arc furprized with its beauty. It is furround-
ed with a good wall, and ii baftions wdl furniflicd with
cannon, and (b contrived as to be of equal fcrvicc againd
an infurredlion in the city, as againft a foreign enemy;
the guns being eafily brought to point down the prin-
cipal ftreets.
The houfes are plain, but very neat, and behind them
arc large gardens well ftocked with herbs and vegeta-
bles, and moft kinds of fruit. They have feveral hand-
fome public buildings, fuch as the great church : the
Aadt-noufc, the ho^itals, the (jpin-houfe or houfc of
corrcdion, the peft-houfe, Chineic hofpital, the houfc of
artifans, &c. And there arc two churches built for the
reformed Portugucfe, and another for the Malays; but
they do not allow cither the Papifts or Lutherans the
public exercife of their religion. The fort ftands upon
the weft fide of the city, and commands both the town
and road : it is ver)t lai^ge, and has four royal baftions
faced with ftonc, but has no moat except the canals,
•which lie ix. fome diftance from the rampart, may have
been miftaken for moats : they are about 25 feet broad,
and fordable in moft places ; the infide of the fort is
crowded with buildings, there being the general's houfc,
as well as the houfes of moft of the principal officers,
and companies fervants : in the middle of the city there
is a large fquare, which ferves as a parade for the gar-
rifon, on the weft-fide of which ftands the great church,
on the fouth the ftadt-houfe, on the north a fine range
of buildings, and on the caft is one of their great canals :
there are alfo feveral fpacious market-places in the city.
The fuburbs reach almoft half a league into the country,
and form a town larger than the former but not fo com-
pa(i>- being intermixed with kitchen gardens and or-
chatds. Here the Chinefc chiefly live, and here they
have their temples and burying places, and the free ex-
ercife of their religion, which is denied the Lutheran
[>roteftants. In this part of the town alfo live the Ma-
ays, and native Javans, and other nations, w hich the
tXitch have tranfplanted from Banda, Ainboyna, &c.
There are firnall forts ereded eery way, at two or three
leagues diftance from the town, to defend the avenues;
the Dutch being confcious that the king of Mataran
and the natives would lay held of any opportunity of re-
poflcfTing thcmfelves of their country, and driving the
Hollanders from their coaft^, however they may feem
to acquieicc and tacitly confent, according to the mo-
dem phndc, to be infulted and tyrannized over by the
Dutch, there is not a nation in India but would gladly
throw oft' the yoke, and declare in behalf of liberty, and
for any prince who fliould come to their relief.
The people who inhabit the city and fuburbs of Ba-
tavia being formed of various nations, who all pre-
fervc the drefles, modes, and cuftoms of their refpec-
tive countries, they confequently exhibit a very ftrange
appearance ; we (nail therefore, for the information of
our readers, give a particular defcription of them.
The Chinefc do not only drive the greatcft retail
trade here, hut arc many of them good mechanics ; they
alfo generally farm the fiftiery, cxcifc and cuftoms, and
apply themlclves to huftiandry and gardening; to ma-
nure and cultivate the rice, cotton, and fugars which
grow in the fields, about Batavia and other great towns ;
and exceeding the Dutch, it is faid; in their thriftinefs,
as well as in cozening and over reaching thofe they deal
with. They drefs in a veft and gown of filk or callico,
after the fafliion of their country, and wear their hair
wound up in a roll, on the hinder part of the head, and
faftened with bodkins ; for which every one pays a cer-
tain tribute to the EXttch. The Dutch company allow
feme privileges to the Chinefc; for they^ have not only a
governor of their own nation, who manages their aifkirt,
but arc alfo allowed a reprefcntative in the council.
They bring tea and porcelane hither from China; but
they who are employed for this purpofe, muft not con*.
tinue on the iftand longer than iix inonth». They have
fingular maxims in the interment of thdr dead i for
they will never open the fame grave where any ohc tias
been buried; their burial grounds, therefore, in the
neighbourhood of Batavia, cover a prodigious fp.nce of
ground, for which the Dutch make thc.11 pay large
funis. In order to prefcrve the body they mike the
coffin of very thick wood, not with pi»iiks fiftened to*
gether, butcutout ofa folid peace like a canoe; the
coffin, being covered and put into the grave, is fur-
rpunded with a kind of mortar about eight iiiclics
thick, which in time becomes ns hard as ftonc. A
great number of weeping women, hired on purpofe, at-
tend the funeral, befidcs the relations of the deceafcd.
In Batavia, the law requires that every man fliould be
burieJ according to his rank ; fo that if the deccafed
his not left money fufficient to pay his funeral cxpcnces,
an officer takes an inventory of his goods, which arc
fold, and out of the produce he buries him in the man-
ner prefcribcd.
The greatcft merchants here are the Dutch, who are
alfo very good mechanics ; they keep the chief inns and
moft places of public entertainment. They pay two
reals a month for their licence, and 70 for every pipe
they fell of Spanifli wine: but thefc inn-kcepcrs arc t;ir
from being obliging to their guefts, and particularly to
foreigners. Here are alfo great numbers of Portu-
gucfe; and in order to dil\ingufti them from other
Europeans, they arc called by the natives Oran-ferante,
or Nazarene men. They in general fpeak the Ma-
layan language, but fome of them a corrupt dialed of
the Portugucfe; and they have all renounced their
religion, by profcffing the principles of Luther. They
arc chiefly employed in the moft fervile offices : fome
ofthcm arc handi^raftfmen, others get their living by
hunting, and the greatcft number by waftii.ig linen.
They have fo clofcly followed the cuftoms and manners
of the Indians, that they are only diftinguiflicd from
them by their features and complexion, their fkin being
confiderably lighter, and their nofes not fo flat ; and
the manners ofadjufting their hair conftitutes the only
dilFcrence in their drefs. Moft of the inhabitants have
very tawny complexions. The Malays wear a ftiort
coat with ftrait fleevcs, and a cloth about their loins,
binding their temples with a piece of linen, in which
they enclofe part of their hair, the reft hanging down.
The women wear a waiftcoat and a cloth about their
waift, which reaches half way down their legs, and
ferves inftcad ofa petticoat; they wear nothing but their
hair on their heads, and go bare-foot. The men get
their living by fifliing, and have fome retail trade,
though not comparable to the Chinefe. They piofefs
the Mahometan religion; but are naturally very pro-
fligate, and will not fcruple to commit crimes of the
moft infamous nature.
The Amboyncfc wear vefts, and wrap a piece of
callico feveral times about their heads, the ends whereof
hang down. Their women only wrap a piece of callioo
about their loins, throwing part of it over their breafts
and flioulders, their legs and arms bare; the men are
moft of them carpenters, and fome of thefe, as well as
of the other nations, the Dutch inlifl in their troops,
being efteemed brave bold fcllo\('s, but given to mu-
tiny, as the Dutch relate, by which they probably mean,
they are not yet reconciled to flavery. Their houfes
arc made of wood, and covered with branches of trees;
they are pretty lofty, and the floors are divided into
feparate apartments, fo that one houfc will contain
feveral families. The native Javanefe wear a kind
of fcull cap, but their bodies are naked to the middle,
wrapping a piece of filk or callico about their loins.
which reaches below the middle of their legs, which
are bare. The women cover their bodies with a piece
of filk or callico, and have another piece wrapped
about their loins, and drefs in their hair. The men
are employed in huftiandrjr and fiftiing, or in build-
ing country boats. There 13 likewife a mixed breed,
calkd
■ ft' -
m
"w
V
I'
100
VOYAGESROUND the WORLD Complete.
called TopafTc* or Maruiikers, confining of fevcral na-
tions, incorporated with the Dutch, and have greater
privileges than the rclt. Many of thefe are merchants,
and diner but little in their habits, or way of life from
the Dutch, only the men wear large breeches or trow-
fcrs, which reach down to their ancles. The women
tie up their hair in a roll on their heads, wear a waift-
coat, and a petticoat of lilk or callico, which reaches
down to their feet. Thefe live both in city and fuburbs,
their houfes are fevcral ftories high, built of brick or
ftonc, and very neatly furnilhed within. The Macaf-
fars, whofe anccltors poflclFcd the illand of Celebes,
and were enflaved by the Dutch; though they went
almoft naked in their mother country, wear cloathing
here. Several of the Timorcans, inhabitants of an
illand of Eaft China, having been brought hither by
the Dutch, now conl^ltutepart of the people of Batavia.
The habits and cuftoms of thefe and of the Macaffars,
are marly the fame: their chief Ci.jployment is huf-
bandry and gardening. As many of them profcfs
ChrllVianity, and are confonuablc to the Dutch in their
religion and cullonis, it is to be prefumcd they clothe
themfelves as the Hollanders do. Some of the negroes
here are (Kdlars, and haw k about the ftrcets glafs-bcads
and coral ; others follow mechanical trades ; but the
mod conliderable of them deal in free-Hone, which
ihey bring from the neighbouring illands. Thefe peo-
ple are chiefly Mahometans. All the inhabitants en-
joy liberty of confcience ; but they arc not allowed to
cxcrcifc their dirterent motlcs of worfliip. Pricfts and
monks are permitted to live here, but they are prohi-
bited from being publjckly fecn in the rcfpcdive habits
of their prieftly orders.
As the women of Java are remarkable for their amo-
rous difpofition and conftancy to the man they efpoufe,
and cxpetS that the man Ihould be equally conftant, if
her lover goes aftray, flie makes no fcruple to prepare a
dofc for him. An old traveller, who feems much
enamoured with the Javanefc ladies, gives this def-
cription of them: he obfcrvcs that they are much fairer
than the men, hare good features, little fwelling breads,
a foft air, fprightly eyes, a moft agreeable laugh, and a
bewitching mien, cfpecially in dancing: that they cx-
prefs the greatell fubmifllon to their hulband, proftra-
tingthcmlelves before him when he enters the houfe.
Poivgamy prevails here ; the Javanefc have fcveral
wives belides fem:ilc (laves, of whom they make con-
cubines when they fee lit. There being a fcarcity of
European women, the Dutch are allowed to marry a
native, provided Hie will profefs Chriltianity, which fhe
is fcldom averfc to, as it gratifies her pride j a Chrif-
tian and the wife of aDutchman taking place of a native
Javanefc, and being allowed a great many privileges,
» hich the natives cannot enjoy j and her hulband is
•bligcd to confme himfelf to hur bed, and bring no rivals
into the family.
Rice is the principal grain that grows here. They
have alfo plantations of fugar, tobacco, and coffee : their
kitchen gardens are Mcll replenilhed with cabbages,
purflain, lettice, parfley, fennel, melons, pompions,
potatoes, cucumbers, and radidies. Here are alfo all
iuannerof Indian fruits, fuch as plantains, bananas,
cocoas, ananas, m.-mgoes, inangofteens,durions, oranges
sffcvernl forts; limes, lemons, the betdand arck nut;
g«uu> of fevcral kinds, particularly bcnjamm: in March
ihey plaiU rice, and their harvelt is in July. In Odlober
they have the greatelt plenty of fruit, but they have
fome all the year. They have good timber, cotton,
and other trees proper to the climate, belides oak,
cedar, and fcveral kinds of red wood. The cocoa-tree
is N cry common, which is of univerfal ufe, affording
them meat, drink, oil and vinegar; and of the fibres cf
the bark they make them cordage; the branches cover
their houfes, and they write on the leaves with a ftcci
lUlc, and with the tree, and the great bamboo cane,
they build their houfes, boats and other veffels. Here
aie buffaloes and fome oxen, and a fmall breed of
horfes. The few fheep we find here have hair,' rather
than wool, and their flclh is dry. Their hogs, wild and
I
umc, are the beft meat wc find there, or in any other
countries between the tropics j and their venifon is
good: here arc alfo tygers and other wild beaffs, cro-
codiles, porcupines, ferpents, fcorpions, locufts, and a
multitude of infedh. Monkies of various kinds are
found here, alfo flying fquirrels; and a remarkable
animal called jackoa ; it is iilmod like a lizan), is very
malicious, and darts its urine at every thing which
offends it : the urine is of fuch a quality, that it will
canker the fleih, and if the part is not immediately cut
out, the ohjedl on which it falls muff immediately
perifli. Few accidents, however, happen from this
creature, as it always gives notice of its (irtjation from
the fingularity of its voice, fo that the natives, as well
as animals, have an opportunity of cfcaping it. The
food, falutations, and divcrfions of the Indians in this
illand, are the lame as in Borneo and Sumatra, and
therefore neal not to be repeated here. The Dutch
travel in coaches, and on horfeback, and fometimcs in
pelanquins, or covered couches, carried on men's
Ihoulders, as the Indians'do, with a grand retinue. Not
any of the nations ofFurope are fiiffered to trade tojava,
but from China 14 or 15 junks of 200 or 300 ton, ufed
to come every yeai -n November or December, and re-
turn hoine injure; which furniflied the Dutch with
the merchandize of China upon eafier tenns than they
could purchafe it in that country : and this is the rea-
fon the Dutch fo feldom vifit that kingdom, and per-
mit other nations to , trade thither, w hich they could
prevent if they pleafed, by (hutting up the ftraits of
Sunda and Malacca, which the fquadrons of men of
war they always keep in India, enable them to do.
Belides the goods imported to Batavia by the Chinefe,
the Dutch themfelves import the produce of Japan, the
Spice Iflands, Perfia, Surat, Bengal, the coaft of Coro-
mandel and Malabar, and all the .ncrchandize of Eu-
rope and Africa. Never were fuch magazines of goods
laid up in any city, as ^c to be found in Batavia, ex-
cept in AmAerdam itfcif ; and as they barter the goods
of one country for another, the Indian trade is fo far
from diminifhing their treafure, that it brings them in
more gold and filver than any other traflic.
The Dutch governor of Batavia takes great ftate upon
him, and has in reality the power of a fovereign prince.
A troop of horfe-guards precede his coach when he goes
out, halberdier* lurround the coach, and a company of
foot-guards march after it, cloathed in yellow fattin,
enriched with filver lace and fringe; and the governor's
lady has her guards, and is attended in all r»f[icds,
both within and in public, with a dignity equal to that
of a queen. The mod conliderable otTicer next to him
is the dircdlor-general, whofe bufinefs is to purchafe
fuch commodities as are bmught to the port, and to
difpofe of fuch as are taken from it. He is fole maffcr
of all the magazines, and has the fupremc diredion of
every thing that relates to the commercial intercll of
the company.
Batavia being a place of the greateff trade in India,
the cuftoms mufV be very confiderable; niorc cfpecially
as the inhabitants are in general wealthy, and almoft
every article is fubjedl to a duty. The taxes are paid
monthly ; and to favc the charge and trouble of gather-
ing them, on the day they become due a Hag is dif*
played on the top of a houfc in the center of the town,
and all parties are obliged immediately to pay their
money to the proper officers appointed to receive the
fame. The money current here confifls of fcveral forts t
as ducats, which are valued at ij^fUvers; ducatoons,
at 80 tlivcrs ; imperial rix-dollars, at 60 ; rupees of Ba-
tavia, at 30 ; fchellings, at fix ; double cheys, at two
divers and an half; and doits, at one-fourthof a (liver.
Some of thefe coins arc of two forts, though of the fame
denomination, namely, milled and unmilled, the former
of which is of mod valuer a milled ducatoon is worth
80 divers, but an unmilled one is not worth more than
72. All accounts are kept in rix-dollars and divci^
which are here merely nominal coins, like our pounds
ftorling. The Dutch, befides their land forces, which arc
very oumerous, have men of war fuHicicnt to engage any
fleets
C API- AIM CARTERE'l 's VOYAGE — for making Difcovcrics in the Southern Ocean, &c. 301
ly other
lifbn is
b, croi
andi
nds are
arkable
, is very
which
it will
tely cut
i^diatety
^m this
)n from
as ucil
The
in this
ra. and
Dutch
Hects they arc likely to meet «ith on the Indian fcas :
ami from their great ftren};th and importance in this
part of the globe, they aflliine the title of " Sovereigns
of all the fcas, from the Cape of Good Hope caftwaid,
to Cape Horn in America." - ^„
Chcrebon isfltuatc about 80 miles eaft of Uatavia : it
is a place of conlidcrable extent, and where the Dutch
have a failory. The country is very fertile, and pro-
duces moft ItinJs of provifions, particularly dec. The
inhabitants arc under the dominion of four great lords,
called fultans, one of whom is particularly attached to
the Dutch, and for that rcafon is dillinguilhed from
the red by the nanle of the company's fultan. Thd reft,
indeed, iriay not be undcfervinR of the like epithet, as
they arc in alliancd with the Dutch, whofe friendlhip
they endeavour to pfefcrvc, and whom they conlider as
their fole protedors; for had it not been for them,
thefc petty princes wbuld have been reduced to the fub-
jedion of the king of Bantam, who made inroads on
their diltrid, but was rcpulfed by the interpofition of
the Dutch. Since this circuinftance, the fuluns have
teftified their gratitude by granting many diftinguiftied
privileges to their protedtors in thefe dominions. The
chief pcribn belonging to the Dutch fadory here is called
the refident, who corrcfponds with the governor-general
of Batavia, but is folcly indcpendant ofany other officer.
Here is a good fort, where the Dutch have a garrifon
conlifting of 80 nicri; about. a mile and a half from
which is a large temple containing the tombs of feveral
of the princes of Cnerebon. It is A lofty building of
variegated (hmes, and very elegantly ornameilted within.
The generality of their prielh relide near this temple,
the whfile order of whom are treated with the moft dif-
tint^uillicd rcfped by the inhabitants. We ftiall now
proceed to the defcription of Palamboan and Mataram,
the latter of which is fubjcct to the Dutch*
^^alainl)i/an, the capital of the kini^dom of that name,
is iituatc in 1 1 4 «.Ug. of K. lonp;. and m 7 deg. 3CJ min. S.
lat. on the ilraits of Bally, through which the Eaft In-
dia fliips fomjcinics p:ir.,\vhen iheyare homeward bound
from Borneo; fuchfliips touch at the town of Palamboan
for frelh water and provilions; but the furf often beats
with (iich violence on the fliore, that makes it difficult
watering tlicrc. Tliis kingdom, which is indepcndant of
the Dutch, lies at the S. E. end of Java, in a pleafant
fountry, watered with feveral rivulets, which fall on each
• lide of the town into the neighbouring ftraits. The
rajah, or king of this country, generally rcfides either at
Palatnhoan, or at a fort 1 5 miles from the fea. His do-
minions reaches from the eaft end of Java, 80 miles
along the fouth coalV, and about 60 miles from N. to S.
but its extent up the country is not known. This king-
dom is faid to produce gold, pepper and cotton, alfo
rice, India corn, roots, and garden ftufF. Their animals
are horfcs, bufTalocs, oxen, deer, and gOits, and they
have great plenty of ducks, geefe, and other fbtta of
poultry. The fovcreign and his fubjedts arc Pagans,
but there arefomc Mahometans among them^ and a few
Chinefe.
Mataram, when in its moft flourifliing ftatc, exterided
ita dominion over the whole idand, and even now takes
up a confiderable part of it: this kingdom was the laft
in the iftand which the Duch reduced under their go-
vernment ; having continued its ftruggles for indepen-
dency till the year 1 704, when the Dutch took the ad.
vantage of an opportunity that otfered in a difputc re-
lative to the fucceflion of the crown, between the fon
and brother of the deceafed fovcreign. Thefe two ri-
vals produced an univerfal divifion in the nation* He
who was intitled to the crown by order of fucceflion had
fo much the advantage over his antagonift, that had it
not been for the Dutch, who declared in favouf of hit
rival, he would certainly have pofTeflcd himfelf of the
fupreme power. After a fefiet of contefts, the party
efpoufed by the Dutch at length prevailed : the young
prince was deprived of his fucceflion, and his uncle, who
was unworthy of the charader, afliimed the fove-
reignty. After the death of this princ« the company
placed the legal heir on the throne, and didUtcd fuch
' No. ^6.
laws to him as they thought beft calculated to anfwer^
their (inifter ptirpofes. They chofe the plate wherd
his court was to be fixed, and fecured his attachment
by ereding a caftle, i» which a guard was kept with no
other apparent view than to prcited the prince: They
employed evety artifice to lull his attention by pleaj
furcs, mad(i him valuable prcfents, and foothed hini
by pomf)ous cmbafltcs. I'Vom this time the prince and
his fucceflbrs have become mere tools of the com-
pany. The neceflary protedion allowed them by thd
company conflfts of 300 horfe and 400 foot ; but [hd
expencesf he company are at on this accdunt are amply
repaid by the advantages that accrue to them.
The harbours aflbrd docks for building all the fmall
vcflels employed in the fervjce t and they afe fupplicd
from hence vtith the! chief part 6f the timber that is
ufed in their refpeclive fcttlcmcnts. Belides thefe ad-
vantages, they are fiiniflied with various produdions of
the Country at ftipulated priced, which arc fo low as td
be extremely profitable to therh.
This country is in general vdry fertile, and produce*
great quantities of rice, as alfo plenty of fruit. Ther^
are alfo various fjrts of anihials, particularly horfcs^
flieep, goats, and remarkablfc large oxen. The rivers
abound with ftfti, and the woods produce great plenty
ofgamej but the moft valuable articles in this kingdom
are, rice, pepper, cad iang, cotton, yafn, cardaWum and
indigo i the latter of which is efteemed to be as good irt
quality as any found in this part of the worlcJ; Thd
refidence of the king is ufually at Mataram, the capital
of the kingdoin. His palace is a very handfome fpacious
building, adjoining to which are many good houfcs
belonging to his ndbles, who continually wait ort
him, and the greateft homage is paid him by his
fubjeds in general ; for though thefe princes arc
vaflals, yet they are permitted to live in as great
ftatc ai when they were indepcnddnt riionarchs ; and
the orders of the E)utch are always executed in their
names. They therefore aflTumc a dignity not inferior
to that of the moft defpotic prince, and when they go
abroad, a very diftinguilhcd mark of loyalty is beftowed
on them.
japara is the lift plact of irilportance that remains td
be mentioned in this ifland ; it is (ituated at the bottom
of an eminence called the Invincible Mountain, on the
top of which is a fort built of wood. It is a very con-
fldefablc town, and has a good road Iccured by two
fmall iflands. The Englifti had once a f:tdory here,
but they were driven from it by the Portuguefe, who at
that time were riial^rs at the pldfcc. This country pro-
duces almOft eveiy necelta/'y of life, efpecially cattle^
hogs, and poultry : they have alfo gieat plenty of rice,
with various forts of the moft delicious fruits; and their
waters abound with the beft of fifli; But the moft vaj
luable commodities here arc pepj>cr, ginger, cinnamoni
and indigo. In the woods and mountains are feveral
kinds of wild bcafts, as buftiilucs, flags, tygers, and
rhinoceros's ; the latter of thefe the natives hunt for the
fake of their horns, which arc much admired, becaufii
they will not contain poifon; for they will immediately
break to pieces ifaiwiuth compofition is put into them.
As to the riatives of this country, they very much rc-
femble thofe of other Indian nations, and have the fame
kind of cuftoms and ceremonies. They are fond of
public dJVerfions, particularly the reprefentation of
comedies, which principally conlift in fing
4
pilgrimage to Mecca, to make vowi. and pray for hit
prorpcrity, and that of hit iamily and government.
The ifland of Balla, or leifer Java, i« only divided
from the lareer by the ftraiu of Bally, and eadward of
thii are the iflands Lambock, Combava, Florcs, Solor,
Timor, and fcverai more, upon which the Dutch have
forts and fettlementi, and tatcc the liberty of governing
and even tranfplanting the natives whenever they pleafc,
from hence they frequently recruit their troops, and
thus make one nation of Indians contribute to keep an*
other in fubjeiflion.
Timor is the largeft of thefe iflanJs, being about
300 niiles in length, and 50 in breadth, and is divided
into feveral petty Rates, which the Dutch oppofe agninlt
one another, and by that means govern the whole. It
has not any navigable rivers or harbours, but there are
feveral commodious bays. The Portueuefe had for-
merly colonies here, whofc defcendants are now fo inter-
mixed with the original natives, that they arc fcarce to
be diflinguifhed from them, efpecially as they profefs
the fame religion. The principal kingdoms m this
ifland are Namquimal, Lortriby. Pobumby, and Am-
aby: each of which has an independant and abfolutc
fovereign : thefc have feveral Rajahs, and other diRin.
Kuifhed officers under them ; all of whom, with their
lubjedls in general, pay them the greateft homage.
Each kingdom has a language peculiar to itfclf, but
the manners and c r- here, is to defend the avenues to the fpioe
iflam yyntch lie in their neighbourhood. On this laft
mentioned ifland there is a Portuguefe fettlement, called
Laphao: it is fituatcd by the fca-fide, about three
leagues to the eaft of the Initch fort, called Concordia.
It IS a very fmall place, containing only a few mean
houfes, and a church made of boards, covered with
palmetto leaves. There is a kind of platform here, on
which arc fix iron guns ( but the whole ajK fo much
decayed, as to be rendered almofl ufelefs. The people,
in general, (peak the Portuguefe laimiage; and the
nauves have been fo intermixed with the Portuguefe by
marriages, that it is difficult to know one from the
,other. Moft of them profefs the Roman catholic faith ;
but in the other paruof the ifland they are either Ma-
homctants or Pagans.. The chief trade is carried on at
Poru Nova, fituated at the caft end of the ifland, and
'where the Portuguefe governor ufually refides. Some
years ago a pirate attacked, plundered, and then de-
ftrmed feveral of the buildings in thu town, with that
of Concordia bcloi^ng to the Dutcn.
Mandura is an ifland oppofite the eaffemmoff point
of Java, the moft valuable produce of which, for foreign
markets, are deer fltins. Itt principal town is Arabia,
fituated near a deep bay, about eight kagfies from the
wcftcmioft land of Java. The foil of this ifland is very
fertile, and produces feveral forts of grain, particularly
rice ! alfo leveral kinds of the moft delicious fruits.
The chief animals are buflfaloes, horfes, flicep, and
oxen, the latter are remarkably large, and the flefli little
inferior to thofe of Europe. Their buildiius. maxims,
cuftoms, &c. refemble thofe of other Indian nations :
fome of them are Mahometans, and others Pagans.
The men arc in general very robuft and courageous, for
which rcafon, when there is any deficiency in the fixed
number of the Dutch troops, they recruit from them
their forces at Batavia and other fettleracnu.
We now proceed to the continuation of the hiftory of
our voyage. By our account the town of Macalfar tics
in latitude 5 dcg. 10 min. and in 117 deg. 28 min.
Eaft longitude from London. It is built upon a point,
or neck of land, and is watered by a river or two which
cither run through, or very near it. It fecmcd to us
to be large, and there is water for a fl»ip to come within
half a cannon fliot of the walls. The country about it
is level, and has a moft bcautiftil appearance; it a-
bounds with plantations, and groves of cocoa>nut trees,
with a great number of houfes interfjierfcd. At a dif-
tancc inland, the country rifes into hills of a great
height, and becomes rude and mountainous.
The Bay of Bonthain is large, with good foundings,
and a foft bottom of mud i wherein (hips may moor
with perfinft fecurity ; nor is there any danger coming
ini for the rocks at the entrance arc above water, and a
Sood mark for anchoring. The higheft land in light
ere is Bonthain hill 1 and a fliip in the offing, at the
diftance of two or three miles from the lan^ fliould
bring this hill N. or N. half W. and then run in and
anchor. We laj^ right under the hill, at the diftance of
about a mile from the ftiore. In this bay are many
fmall towns : Bonthain lies in the N. E. part of it ; and
the fort which we have mentioned, is intended for no
other purpofe than to keep the country people in fub-
jedioi). The Dutch rclidenc has the command of the
place, and of Builocomba, which lies about twenty
miles farther to the caftward. There are feveral fmall
rivers from whence water may be got upon occafion :
indeed wood and water are here in great plenty : wc cut
our wood near the river, under Bonthain hill : our wa-
ter was procured partly from that river, and partly
from another j when from the latter, our boat went a-
bove the fort with the caflcs that were to be filled,
where there is a good rolling way ; but as the river is
fmall, and has a bar, tlie boat, after it is loaded, can
come out only at high water. Frefh provilions were
purchafed here, at reafonn' rates : the beef is excel-
lent, but not in plenty ; I . rice may be had in any
quantity, as may fowls and fruit. In the woods are
abundance of wild hogs, and as the natives, who are
Mahometans, never eat them, they may be purchafed
at a fow price. The natives at times, fupplied us with
turtle ; for this, like pork, is a dainty which they never
touch. The b;^llocks here are the breed that have a
bunch on their backs. The arrack and fugar that are
confumed are brought from Batavia. Celebes is the
key of the Molucca or fpicc iflands, which, whoever
is in po(rc(rion of it, muft necclTarily command : moft
of the (hips that are bound to them, or to Banda, touch
here, and always go between this ifland and that of So-
layer. The latitude of Bonthain hill is j deg. 30 min.
S. longitude 1 1 7 deg. 53 min. E.
On Sunday the 22nd of May, at day break, we
fililed from Bonthain Bay, keeping along ihore till the
evening, when we anchored in the pafTage between the
two ilunds of Celebes and Tonikaky ; the latter of
which, according to our account, lies in latitude 5 deg.
31 min. S. longitude 117 deg. 17 min. E. On the 23d.
we weighed, ftecred to the fouthward of Tonikaky, and
ftood to the weftward. At three o'clock P. M. we
were abreaft of the eaftermoft of three iflands, called
by the Dutch Tonyn's iflands. Thefe make a right
angle triangle with each other; the diftance between
the eaftermoft and weftermoft is eleven miles, and their
relative bearings are nearly eaft and weft. At fix o'clock,
after we had founded and got no ground, we fuddcnly
found ourfelves upon a fhoal, having not three fathoms
water d in fight
ing, at the
nd, fhould
run in and
diftance of
are ouny
of ic; and
dcd fur no
pie in fub-
and of the
)ut twenty
veral fmall
occafion:
ty: wccuc
: our wa-
md pardy
•at went a-
bc filled,
he river is
>aded. can
lions were
f is exccU
od in any
woods are
>, who are
purchafed
ed us with
they never
at have a
>r that are
bes is the
, whoever
uid: moll
>da, touch
hat of So.
5. 30 mjp.
break, we
re till the
twecn the
latter of
de 5 deg.
J thf 23a,
kaky, and
'. M. we
is, called
c a right
between
and their
t o'clock,
fuddeniy
: fathoms
ed us the
bottom,
id provi-
ery dan-
ie fouth*
rmoft of
bout the
igen we
I and the
i wcftcr.
le cader-
moft
m
''n 'I
It
Captain CART^RET's VOYAGE — for making Difcoverici in the Southern Ocean, &c. 303
nioft i» diftant 34 miles due W. from Tonikaky. and
the wcftcrmoft lies ten miles farther. On the 15th P. M.
we f' -nd the water much difcolourcdi foon after wc
went over the northermoft part o( a ftioai. Here wc
found the water very foul when to the fouthward, but
to the northward of us it appeared to be clear. At 1 1
o'clock we faw to the northward of us, the fouthcrmoft
iflands of Salombo, in latitude 5 dcg. u min. S. at the
diftance of eighty-two leagues weft of Tonikaky. Wc
n>uft here remark, that off the ifland of Madura, the
winds of the monfoons are commonly a month later in
fettling than at Celebes. On Thurfaay the 26th P. M.
wc faw from the mart head the ifland of Luback, which
it in latitude 5 dcg. 43 min. S. and in longitude 5 deg.
i|6 min. W. of Tonikaky, and diftant from thence 1 12
eagucs. To the northward of this ifland we found a
current fetting W. N. W. On the 29th we faw the
clvfter of fmall iflandi. called Carimon Java, diftant
from Luback 4J leagues. The eaftermoft ifland is the
lanKft, and is m latitude 5 deg. 48 min. S. longitude
7 dcg. $2 min. W. of Tonikaky, from which it is dif-
tant about I j8 leagues.
Thurfday. the and of June, wc made that part of
the ifland of Java which makes the eaftermoft point of
the bay of Batavia, called Carawawang. When mc firft
got fight of the land we decreafcd gradually our found-
ings, and, having fteered alon^ the fhore for Batavia,
we had thirteen fathoms, in which depth, night coming
on, wc anchored, in fighr of Batavia, near the two
fmall iflands called Leyden and Alkmar. On the 3d
we came to an anchor in the road, which is fo good
that it may be conftdercd as a harbour. Wc thought
ourfelvcs happy in having attained our prefent fituation ;
for with great difficulty we had prevented the Swallow
from finking by the conftant working of the pumps,
during her who!.* pafTagc from Celebes. In this road of
Batavia wc found laying eleven large Dutch fliips, bc-
fidcs fcvcral that were lefs, one Spanifh fhip, a Portu-
guefc fnow, and fcvcral Chincfe junks. On the 4th
we falutcd with 1 1 guns, which number was returned ;
and this being his Majefly's birth day, we afterwards
fired 21 guns more on that occafion. In the afternoon
captain Carteret waited upon the governor, rcquefting
pcrinifTion to repair the defeds of the fhip ; but he was
diredcd to petition the council. Accordingly on Mon-
day the 6th when the council met, the captain fent a
letter, Rating to them the dcfedts of the (hip, and rc-
quefting permifTion to repair her ; adding that he hoped
they would allow him the ufe of fuch wharfs and ftorc-
houfcs as ftiouid be neceffary. On the 7th in the after-
noon, the fhebander, Mr. Garrifon, a merchant, as in-
terpreter, and another perfon, came to the captain,
faying, that he was fent by the governor and council
for a letter, which they had heard he had received
when at Bonthain, that the author of it, who had in-
jured both him and their nation, might be punifhed.
Captain Carteret acknowledged he had received infor-
mation of a defign to cut off the fliip, but faid, he had
never told any one it was by means of a letter. The
fhebander then defired to know if the captain would
ukc an oath, of his not having received the letter in
queftion ; to which the captain returned, that if the
council had any fuch extraordinary rcquifition to make
of him, he deiircd it might be in writing, and then he
would «ivc fuch a reply, as, upon mature confideration,
he (hould think proper. He then afkcd the fhebander,
what anfwcr he had been inftruded to givtto his letter,
concerning the refitting of the (hip ; to which the (he-
bander replied, that the council nad taken offence, at
his having ufed the word hoped, all merchants having,
upon a like occafion, ufed the ftilc of reaiieji -, captain
Carteret in return faid, that no offence nad been in-
tended on his part, and that he had ufed the firft words
that occurred, which he thought moft cxprcflivc of his
meaning. On the 9th the fame gentlemen vifi:ied the
captain a fecond time, when the fhebander required a
writing under his hand, importing, that he believed
the report, of an intention tbnned at the ifland of Ce-
lebes tocutotf the Swallow, was folfc and inalicioui.
ohferving at the fame time, that he hoped the captain
had a better opinion of the Dutch nation, than to fup-
pofe them capable of fuffering fo exccrah'o a deed to
be perpetratea under their government. After this al-
tercation Mr. Garrifon read a certificate, which, he
faid, had been drawn up, by order of the council, for
captain Carteret to fign. This the captain rcfufed to
do, becaufc it appeared to be made a condition of com-
plying with his requeft refpeding the fliip. During
this converfation,,the captain defired to lee by what
authority the Shebander made his requifition : he re-
plied, he had no teftimony of authority, but that of the
notoriety of his bcng a public ofliccr, and the evidence
of the gentlemen who were prefent, who would confirm
his declaration, that he aded in this particular by the
exprefs order of council. The captain now repeated
his requeft of having the reuuifition of the council in
writing; the Shebander faid, he could not do this
without an order from his fupcriors ; the captain upon
this abfolutely refufed to fign the paper, and they parted
not in very good humour with each other.
On Wednefday, the 15th, the fame three gentlemen
paid capuin Carteret a third vifit, informing him, that
the council had protefted againft his behaviour at Ma-
caffar, and his refuting to fign the certificate, as an
infult upon them, and an ad of injuftice to their nation.
The captain faid, he was not confcious of having, in
any inftance, aded contrary to the treaties fubfming
between the two kingdoms, unworthy of his charadcr
as an oflicer, honoured with a commiflion from his
Britannic Majefty, or unfuitable to the truft repofed in
him; nor did he think he had been ufed by the go-
vernor of Macaffar as the fubjed of a friend and aUy 1
he then requefted, that if they had any thing to alled^e
againft him, it might be reduced to writing, and laid
iKfore the king his maftcr, to whom alone ne thought
himfeif to be refponlible. With this anfwer they de-
parted i and, the next day, the captain w rote a fecond
letter to the governor and council, in which he rcpre-
fentcd, that the leaks of the Swallow were every day
increafing, and urged, in more prcfTing terms, his re-
queft, that fhe might be repaired. In confequencc of
this application, on Saturday the 18th the Shebander
informed us, that the council had given orders for the
repair of the fhip at Onruft, and, as there was no ftorc-
houfe empty, they had appointed one of the company's
vcfTels to receive our ftores. The captain inquired of
the Shebander whether he had not an anfwer to his
letter ; he faid he had not ; nor was this the ufual mode
with tlie council, a mcffage by him, or fome other of-
ficer, being always thought fuflicient. All difputes be-
ing now terminated, without any improper compliances
on the part of this intrepid commander, he was, after
this, fupplied for his money with every thing he could
delire from the company's ftores, and a pilot was or-
dered to attend us to Onruft, where we came to an-
chor on Wednefday the 22nd. We immediately began
to clear the fhip, and put her ftores on board the com-
pany's velTel. On examination we found the poor
weather-beaten Swallow in a very decayed ftate. Her
bowfprit and cap, as well as her main yard, were rot-
ten, and altogether unferviccable, her (hcathing was
every where eaten off by the worms, and the main
planks were fo much damaged, that it was abfolutely
neceffary to heave her down, before (he could be fufii-
ciently repaired ; but the wharfs bein^ at this time pre-
engaged by other (hips, her repairs did not commence
till the 24th of July. When the Dutch carpenters
came to examine her bottom, they were all of one o-
pinion, that the whole (hould be (hifted. This the
captain ftrcnuoufly oppofed, being afraid, as the Swal-
low was an old (hip, that (hould her bottom be opened,
and (bund worfe than was imagined, flie might under-
go the fate of the Falmouth, anj be condemned : he
therefore defired, tliat a good (heathinj only might be
put over all ; but the Ba\yfe, or mafter caipenter, would
not undertake the required repairs, unle» the captain
would certify under his hand, that what (hould be done
was in confeqiience of his own exprefs orders, judg^.
ment.
it I'll
■.■''I
ii
i-at:
m
m
304
VOYAGES ROUND ihe WORLD Completb.
rncnt, and ilirc>.tioii t which the Dutchman thouuht
was nccclTary for his own juftificatiorii for, faid nc,
flioulil the Swallow never reach England, the bl.iine, it
1 jro accoriling lo your dircdions, will nevcrthclefs con-
fi-ijucntly fall upon inc. This being thought a rra'bn-
nbtc pro^iolition, the Captain readily aflented to it i but
being by this act become refixmlibic for the fate of the
Ihip, he thought proper to nave her furvcycd carefully
by our own carpmtcr and mate, he himfelf with hiil
officers always attcmling. .\mong oiher ^cfcAs, fcvcn
chain-plates were iiftlcfs ; the iron work was in a very
tk'cayed llate i fevcral of the knees were loofe, oilers
were broken, aiul the biitt-ciuls of the planks that joined
the ftern were fo ojK-n, that a man's hand might be
thnift in between.
During our flay at this jwrt, we l()und, among other
ptivatc (iiips from India, the Dudley, frt)m Bengal ; and
application having been made to the council, leave had
been granted to careen her, but as the wharfs had been
kept in continual ufe, ilic had been put oif above
four months. The Captain apprehending, that if he
futfcrcd « delay much longer, the worms woul.J eat
through the bottom of his veU'el, applied to our Com
niander to intercede for him with Admiral Houting,
which hcdid w'ithfuch fuccefs, that a wharf was im-
mediately allotted her. " Admiral Houting," fays Cap-
tain Carteret, " is an old man, in the Icrvicc of the
Hates, with the rank of Commander in chief of their
marine, and the (hips belonging to the Company in
India. He received his firlV maritime knowledge on
board an Englifli man of war, fpcaks Englifli and
French extremely well, and docs honour to tnc fcrvice
both by his abilities and politencfs : he was fo obliging
as to give me a general invitation to his table, in con-
fcquence of which I was often with him, and it is with
pleafure that I take this opnortunity of making a pub-
lic acknowledgement of tne favours I received from
him, and bearing this tcllimony to his public and pri-
vate merit : he was, indeed, the only officer from whom
1 received any civility, or with whom I had the lead
communication ; for I found them, in general, a re-
fcrved and fupertilious fct of people." The fpirited
behaviour of Captain Carteret to the governor at this
Dutch fcttlcmcnt, in rcfuling to pay him an extrava-
gant homage, which is exaoled ol the Captains of all
merchant fliips which touch here, defcrves alfo par-
ticular notice. The governor of Batavia, although a
fcrvant of the republic, atfumes the ftate of a fovcreign
prince. When he goes abroad, he is efcortcd by a
party of horCe-guards, and two black footmen run be-
fore his coach, each having a large cane in his hand,
with which they take the liberty of chaftifing thofe
wh)do not make the obcifancc that is cxpccled froni
perfons of all ranks, whether belonging to the country
or ftrangcrs. In this fettlemcnt almoll every one keeps
a carriage, which is draw n by two horfcs, and driven by
a man upon a box, like our chariots, but is open in front.
When any one of thcfc coaches meets that of the gover-
nor's, cither in the town, or upon the road, it is drawn
on one fide, and the perfons in it muft get out to pay
their rcfptds, while his excellency's coach goes by ; nor,
if a coach is behind, muft it drive part that of the go-
vernor's, however prcfling ncccflity may require fpecd.
A fimilar homage is likewifc required by the members
of the council, called Edele Heeren, only that the jicr-
fon docs not quit his carriage, but ftanding up in it,
pays them a refpcdlful.homagc. One black 'nan, with
a Itick in his hand, runs likcwife before the coach of
every member of the council, nor muft any one pre-
fume to pafs it any more than that of the governor's.
It was hinted to Captain Carteret by the landlord of the
hotel where he lodged, that his carriage muft ftop, if
he fliould meet the governor, or any one of the Edele
Heeren ; this ceremony being generally complied with
by .tfe captains of Indiamen, and other trading fliips;
and he intimated, that the Shebander had ordered him
to give the Captain this information : but our Com-
. mandei" difdaining to pay a degree of fervilc homage to
' the fcr vanes of the Sutes of Holland, which is not paid
. -•• I
to the kingof CircatUritain, would not lonfcnt to perform
any fuch ceremony j and when the landlord iiuntioncJ
the black men with their fticksi, he pointed tohi« pif-
tols, which then hapuened to lie upon the table, ami told
him, that he would Ik u|M)n hisgunrd i and lliould any
infult lie offered to his pcrfon, he knew well how to de-
fend himfelf: upon this he went out, and in a lew houis
after told the Captain, he had orders from the governor,
to let him know, that he might do as he pleated. Wc
had now been at liatavia iKtwccn three and four months,
and during that time, fays Captain Carteret, " I had the
honour to fee the governor l)tit twice: the firfl tiuu*
was at my arrival, when I waited upon him at one of
his houfes, a little way in the counti; i the next was in
town, ai he was walking before his hoiilc there, when I
addrelTcil him upon a particular occalion. .Soon alter
the news of the Prince of Orange's marriage arrived at
Batavia, he gave a public entertainmciii, to which I
had iiic honour of being invited- but having heard,
that Commodore I'inker, upirh a|)iW4rantc they Itccp the
inhabitant* in uwc. Ihc l.irgd* of thelc i»»«nd», which
lii'i moft to the fouth. i» 40 "»''" '""«> ""'* ' i '"'"i^'
the fouth cm! i« mountainous and there are fonic flcen
nxki ncarthcfeai the reft ot the ifland it covered wiin
woods, but hai no hiuh land. It ii a rii h loil, that
would produce almoft any ({rain, if it was cultivated.
TIk- i;rovcs of cocoa-nut trees that grow in the Hat
country near the fea.arc exceeding pleafant ; but we do
not find an account of any town*; only, a* we fail by
ica, we can perceive Rrouns, containing each five or fix
houfc-H in every creek ano bay, which arc built on bam-
boo pillars, eiyht or nine feet above the ftirface of the
ground, the nxif being neatly arched with bended cane,
and covered w ith paJm branches.
Thcfe iflanderi are of the middle ftaturc, their com-
niexion a deep olive, their long hair and eyes black.
The men wear no cloaths, but a piece of linen cloth
about their loins i that of the women reaches IkIow the
knees. Their women might be efteemcd handfomc, if
it was not tkc cuftomto pull the hairoif their eyebrows
by the nioti. They neglect to clear the country, and
cuttivatc the ground, which is over-run with wood ;
and they live chicHy on filh, and fuch fruits as the
country produces fpuntancoudy. They have tittle trade
or commerce with any other people ; but as fliips fiul
in their way to and from the ftraita of Malacca, they
bring off hogs, pmltry, and fuch fruits as the country
affords, taking tobacco, linen, and other nccelTaries in
return.
(2.) The Andoman, and C(Koa Idands. The former
arc lituated in the bay ot Ik-n^al, north of the Nicobar
Idandii, in between 10 and 15 degrees of north latitude,
longitude 92 degrees call. Theic i Hands do not lecm
to diflcr much from thofe of Nicobar, except in pro-
4lucing rice, which <' cultivated and eaten by the natives
as weU as fifli n.iO fruit. The Cocoa Klandj lie {5
leagues W. S. W. of Cape Ncgrais ; they produce great
abundance of cocoa-trees, but are uninhabited.
(j.) The famous illandofCcvloni which lies between
f dc\, 30 min. and lodeg. lomin. N. latitudei and
oetwei !i79 deg. 40 min. and 82 deg, 45 min. E. lon-
gitude ; at the dillance of about 190 miles from Cape
Comorin, Ptolemy dcfcribed this ifland under the
name of Taprobane. It is 900 miles in circumference,
300 in length, and 140 in breadth. It is for the moll
part a mountainous country, covered with wood ; but
there are feveral fruitful plains and valleys, well watered
by rivulets. A very remarkable mountain, which Hands
on the fouth-fide of Condula. the name of tkc northern
divtfion, is, by the natives, called Hamalcl; but by the
Europeans, Adam's Peak, being of a pyramidal form,
only on the top is a little rocky plain, with a print of a
roan's foot on it, near two feet long, to which the natives
CO in pilgrimage once a year, to worlhip the impret
Son, having a tradition, according to Tome, that their
SkI Buddow afccnded to heaven from hence, leaving
is print of his foot, which the Portuguefe, when they
pofleflcd this ifland, called Adam's foot, and the moun-
tain Pico de Adam; but others affirm, that it received
its name from a tradition of the natives, that Adam
was created and buried here. In this nnountain rife
the principal rivers, which run into the fea in diiTerent
directions. The Urged of thefe is the Mavillagonga,
which runs N. E. of the cities of Candy and Alatneur,
difcharging itfclf into the ocean at Trincomale. Thefe
rivers mn wit li fuch rapidity, and are fo full of rocks,
that none of them are navigable: the rains, which hap-
pen when the fun is vertical, increafe their waters, and
create abundance of torrents, which are not viliblc in
the dry fcafon. The air is for the molt part healthful,
except near the fea, and the north part of the ifland,
where they have no fprings, or rivers ; and if the rain
fiiils them, they are (urc to be afflided with famine or
ficknefs. The chief towns are, i . Candy, the capiul
of the ifland, and fituate near the center of it, in lati.
ttide 8 deg. N. and 79 deg. E. longitude. This is an
open town with fortifications, and yet almoft inacccfli-
No. 37.
As the boys grow up, they are entered
d land fervice ; and the girls are married
hie, being furrounded by rocks and thick w(ioilublc, except thiough foiue lanrs, which are
fenced with gates ot (hong thorns : and yet it aiipeirs
that the Portuguefe made thcmlelves mailers of C'aiidy,
and almoft demolilhcd it, obliging the king to retire to
Digligyneur, live miles 8. K. of Candy. 2. Columho,
the capital of the Dutch fcttlements, is a great port
town in the S. W. part of the ifland, in 7 deg. N. la-
titutle, and in 78 deg. E. longitude. It has a goo«l
harbour, defended by a caftle, and feveral batteries of
guns. In this caftle refides the governor, merchants,
orticers and foldicrs, belonging to the F.aft India Com-
(tany: and 4000 (Uvea nave their huts between the
caftle and the fea. The Dutch have twO hofpitals
here : one for the fick and wounded, and another for
the orphans,
into the fea and
at 12 or 13 years of age I and they have a Malabarian
fch(M)l for teaching the Indian language. 3. Negumbo,
which is alio a m>rt town, lie:i atiout ?c miles north of
ColunilMJ. 4. Jatfnapatan, the capital of the province
oftlic lainv name, and the northern divifion of this
ifland. '1 here is no cinnamon in this part of the ifland,
neverthclefs the IXjtch have fortified it all round, to
prevent any other nation fending colonies thither. 5.
rrincomale Is lituateonthccaft-lideof the ifland, about
Ko miles fouth of Punta Pedra, the moft northerly pro-
montory of the ifland. 6. Battadalio is another fortrefs,
50 miles fuuth of the former : belides which places,
there are the fcven little iflands Ourature, Xho, De-
fcrla, AnaUtiva, Caradiva, Pongardiva, and Nainan-
diva.
With regard to the hiftory of this ifland, the country
villii(;esof the natives are very irregular, being not laid
out ill Itreets, but every man indoles a fpot of gi ound,
w itii a bank or pale luitable to his circumftuuccs, and
there are frequently 20 or 30 of thofe inclofurcs pretty
near together. The buildings are mean, the houfes of
the generality of the people, low thatched cottages,
coniifting of one or two gitMind rooms, the fides
whereof are fptintered with rattans or cane, which they
do not always cover with clay, and if they do, it feems
they arc not pennitted to white-wafh them, this being
a royal privilege. The better fort of people have a
fquaie in the middle of their houfes, and as many
rooms on the fides of it as the number of the family
requires, with banks of earth raifed a yard high above
this fquare court, whereon they fit crofs-legged, and eat
or converfe with their friends. Their meat is drefTed
in their yards, or a corner of the room. Their furni-
ture conlifts of a mat, a ftool or two, a few china plates,
with fome earthen and brazen veflTels for water, and to
drcfs their meat in, except)onc bcdftead, which is allotted
to the mafter of the houfe to lit or fleep on, and this is
corded, if wc may ufc the expreflion, with rattans or
fmall canes ; and has a mat or two and a ftraw pillow
upon it, but no tefter and curtains. The women and
children lie on mats by the fire-fide, covering them-
felves only with the cloth they wear in the day time ;
but they will have a fire burning at their feet, all night,
the pooreft among them never wanting fuel, wood be-
ing fo plentiful that no one thinks it worth while to
claim any property in it. Their Piigodas or Teiriples,
whiclrare of any antiquity, are built of heWn frone,
with numbers of images tx>th on the infide ami but,
but no windows in them, and in all other refpedts like
thofe on the neighbouring continent of India; but
their temples of a modern date are little k>w buildings
with clay walls, almoft in the form of a dove-houfe ;
and befides their public temples, they have fmall
chapels in their yaixls, fometimes not more than tw«
feet fquare, which they fet upon a pillar four feet high,
and having placed in it the image they reverence moft,
they light candles and lamps before it, and everv
morning ftrew flowers while performing their devo-
tions.
The natives are efteemed men of good p«rt« and
addrefs, grave, yet of an eafy temper. They eat and
fleep moderately, but are lazv and indolent, which ii
4 H the
J
.'1
■1,1;
■V I
1o6
V O Y A G E 8 ROUND the WORLD t o m f l r r k.
t
the i»fc ill luoft lio( ilimatw. It it ftiit, thm they are
not (liven to thieving, but »rc much aiWiCtcJ to IvinK,
whiJh fccnw to Ik a paradox i for a man who will lye
and deceive, would not niakc much fcniplc to cheat.
'I'hcy arc far (roin being jcaloui, or rcllraining of their
women from taking innocent frcedomi. The men are
of a moderate ftaturc, and well |troportioncd, wear long
l»eard», and have good feature* i their hair and eyca arc
black I they have dark complexion*, but not black a*
the nativei uiH»n the neighbouring continent ol India
are. They tit on mati and carpeti on the Ho<»r, but
have a rtool or two for (Krfoni of dillinulgar arc prohibited the ufc of rtool*. Young men
of (igure wear their hair long and combed back i but, in
a more advanced age, cap» m the form of a nutre arc
worn. Their dreU is a wairtcoat of callic», and a piece
of the fame wrapped round their wailU, in which they
i)ut their knivei and trinkets, and they have a hanger
iy their fide, in a lilver fcabbani : bclidcs which they
walk with a cane or tuck, and a boy carries a box with
betel and areca after them. Ihc betel is a leaf of the
fliapc of a laurel leaf, and the arcca-nut »bout the big-
neUof a nutmeg, which they cut in thin flicci, with
an inftrumcnt made on purpofc for it, and this, with a
pane made of lime, they chew together al;-.-;! «11 day
long, as moft other Indiana do: tni» mixture fecma
to be a kind of opiate, and fenders them perfotUy cafy
while they ufc it. They have a jperfon to carry a co-
vercd lilver pot, or one made of fomc other metal, to
fpit in: for this compolition has a naufeous fmell,
and it would be the grcateft affront imaginable to fpit
on the carpets or floors in a friend's houfe, and thofe
that chew it fpit perpetually. It makes their lips very
red, of which they are proud, and this may be one
reafon for their taking it; but there is nothing inviting
in the uftc of this luxurious dainty, though univcrfally
chewed, and is the firft thing offered a llratwcr when
he makes a vifit. The women wear their hair long
without any covering, and make it rtiine with cocoa-
nut oil, which has a very rancid fmell, though the na-
tives ertrem it a perfume, for cuftom will bring people
to like almoft any thing. The women are drcllcd m a
callikO waiftcoat, which difcovers their fliape, and they
wrap a piece of callico about them, which falls below
their knees, and docs the fervicc of a petticoat: thefc
are longer, or (hortcr, according to the quality of the
perfon who weara them. They bore holes m their ears,
in which they hang fuch a weight of jeweN. or fome-
thing ihat refcmblcs them, that you may put a half
crown through the hole of their ears: they load their
necks alfo with weighty necklaces, which fall upon their
breafts. containing a great many ftrings or rounds of
beads: their arms are adorned with braccleu i and they
have a number of rings on thei. -ingcra and toes j and
a girdle of filver wire furrounds their waifts. When
they go abroad, they throw a piece of ftriped filk over
their neads. which fometimca refembles a hood. The
peopje arc obliged to go bare-footed, becaufe none but
the king is allowed to wear (hoes atid (lockings. The
ufual falutation among thefe people, ia the fame aa in
other paru of India, namely, the carrying one or both
hands to their heads, according to the quality of the
pcifon they falutc. Talkative people are in no repute ;
for the neattrt relations, or moft particular friends, do
not talk much when they vifit, but lit filcnt a great part
ef the time. A man before marriage, fends a fnehd to
putchafe the woman's deaths, which (he fnely fells for
aftipuhucd fum. In the evening he carries them to
her. fleeps with her all night, and in the momiiw ap-
poinu the day of marriage s on which he provides an
entertainment of two courletfor the friends of both par-
ties. Thefeaft is held at the bride's houfe, when the
young couple eat out of thclame di(h, flecp t(»ether
:hat night, and on the enfuing morning depart for the
bridegroom's habitttion. The meaning of making
a purchafc of the bride's doaths is, that (lie and her
friends may be Satisfied with refpcft to the man's cir-
rumftawe*. they are permitted to part with each
rther arc lo inclined to avail
themfelvesofthm lilnTty, that Come of them hive brcn
known to change a do/.eii imici. The prnfcffion of a
midwife is unknown, »% the wonipn, in gciirnl, me
both willing and qualified on chatoiialion tuadill caih
other.
I'his ifland (irniluccs ricc,of\vhi(h thcvhave fivcral
kindi : one ol them wilt he fcvcn niotithit before it
comes to maturity, fmne lix. ,ind othi ih live, iHtwcm
the feed time and harvrll : that \»hiih grow* falleft
is the beft tailed, but yield* the It.iH iiHic.ifei and ii«
all forts of rice grow in water, the inluiliiiaius arc at
Srcjtt lawiour andexpciue in levelling thegiound duy
elignlbr tillage, and making channels from their well*
and rciwlitories of water, to convey to tiiife tkWU:
they cut out the fides of their hills fiom the top to the
bottom, into little level plains, one almve another, that
the water may Hand in them till the corn is ripci and
thefe levels not being more than fix or eight feet wide,
many of them look like ftairs to afccnd the mountain,
at a little dillance. In the north part of the ifiand,
where there are lew fprings, they (ave the rain water
in great ponds, or tanqucs, of a i.Mie in compafs, in
the time of the monfoons. and when their feeds ar«
Town, let it down into them gradually, fo that it may
liold out till harveft. They do not thrafii, but tread
out their corn with oxen and buffaloes, frequently in
the (icid where it growi, Wh' it is reaped, they lay
out a round fpot of ground for this purpofc, about li
feet over, which they dig r, foot and a half deep, and
the women, whofc bufincis it is, bring the corn in bun-
dles on their heads, after which the cattle arc driven
round the pit till they have trampled it out of the
firaw : then a new floor is laid i and with half ador.en
oxen they will trample out 40 or 50 bulhels a day.
Before they begin to tread out the corn, they aluayi^
perform a religious ceremony, and apply to their
idols for a blelting on their labours. They have
feveral other kinds of grain, which they eat at the
latter end of the year, when rice begins to be fcarce,
particularly coracan. which is as finail as a mufiara
iced. Having beat this, and ground it into flour,
they make cakes of it. This grain grows in .dry
|;round, and is ripe within three or four months after it
IS fown. They have alfo a feed, called tolla, of which
they make oil, and anoint themfelvcs with it.
In this ifland are a great variety of fruiu, but th^
natives fcldotn eat them ripe, or cultivate any but
thofe which ferve to make pickles fortheirfoup or curree,
and for fauces, when they are green, to eat with their
rice. Of the betel they have great abundance, which
they formerly exported to the coafl of Coromandel, to
great advantage, before the Dutch excluded them from
all trade with foreigners, llic fruit called jacka, ii
part of their food. They grow upon lara;e trees, at«
rouiKl in their Ihape, and as big as a peck foaf. They
are covered with a green prickly rind; have feeds and
kernels in them a* big as a chcfnut ; and arc in colour
and tafte like them. Tlicy gather thefc jackas before
they are ripe ; and, when boiled, they eat much like
cabbage ; if fuffercd to grow till ripe, they are very
good to eat raw. The natives roall the kernel in the
embers, and carry with them when they take a journey,
for their provifion. There is another kind of fruit
called jumbo, which is very juicy, and taftcs like an
ai^le : it is white, ftreakcd with red, and looks very
beautiful. They have alfo fome fruits that rcfcmblc
our plumbs and cherries; nor do they want any of the
common Indian fruits, fuch as mangoes, cocoas, pine-
apples, melons, pomegranates, oranges of feveral forts,
citrons, limes, &c. They frequently dedicate their
fruit to fome dxmon, to prevent their being flolcnt
after which their neighbours dare not touch them,
left the dsemon. to which they are devoted, (hould
puni(h them for the theft ; and before the owner catss
of it himfclf, he offers part of it to the idol. Their
kitchen gardens are well ffored with roots, plants, and
herbs, for the Pottuguefc and Dutch have introduced
aU
Captain CARTERFT'i VOYAGE— fur making Dilcoverif* in fheSoif nu hn 0>. mill
10 asail
\vf Uevn
ion ot u
ril, me
flill each
fivp to the
her, thai
ipci and
■ct w ide,
lountain,
iHand,
in natcr
pafi, in
fccdit ara
•II manner ol lunoiJcan planli that grt)W in oiirkitclien
Sirdeiu. '1 hiy alloalwund in niedii inal hcrlw, whuli
ey know >ery well how to apply, and with whii h thry
perform many noialilecurc».
Nor are they in want of floweri of various colours,
and a deliciou* ftent, which grow f^iomancoully 1 hut '
arc never cultivated : with thefe, the younn pi-opic ul \
both lexe* adorn their hair. With a variety o» Oilicri,
thry have white and red rofi-i, as fwect and brautihil
as tljolc in Furope, and a white Mower refcnililiuK jcf-
faniine, whiih the king refervca for his own u(e, no
fubieck iKiiipt allowed to wear it. There is another
flo.ver, whii h is ohferved to open about four every
cvrning, and clofe again at four in the morning.
Amonir their trees the talipot, which grows very
tall and Sraii, is in high repute. A finglc leaf of tins
will cover 1 5 or 10 men. and will fold up like a fan :
they wear a piece of it on their heads, when travelling,
to (kreen them from the fun. They alfo fcrvc the
foldiers for tenti to lie under in the fields 1 and their
leavea are fo lough, that they make their way w ith them
through the thickets without tearing them. There is
likewife a tree called kettule, a kind of palm, a* high
at a cocoa-tree, from whence they draw a plcnfant
liquor > an ouliiury tree yielding three or four galloni
a day ; and when boiled, it makes a kind of hrown
fugar, called jaggory. The wood of this tree is black,
hard, and very heavy. But that ot nioft value to the
Dutch, as it was formerly to the Arabs, «nd the Purtu-
guefe, is the cinnamon-tree, which grow* commonly in
the woods, on the S. W. part of the ifland. The tree
is of a middle fr/.c, and has a leaf of the form of a
laurel leaf. When the leaves firft appear, they are as
fed as fcarler, and being rubbed between the fingers,
fmcll like clove*. It Dears a fruit like an acorn,
which neither fmcllt nor tafles like the bark ■ but if
boiled in water, an oil fwimt on the top, which fmells
fwectly, and is ufed at an ointment in feveral dil^em-
Ccrt : but as they have great plenty of it, they frequently
urn it in their lamps. 1 he tree having two barks,
they ftrip off the outhdc bark, which is good for little,
and then cue the inner bark round the tree with a
f)runing knife t after w hich the^ cut it long ways in
ittle flips, and after they have flripped thefe piecei otf,
lay them in the fun to dry, when they roll up in tlie
manner we fee them brought over. 'I'he body of the
tree is white, and fcrves for building, and other ufes, but
hat neither the fmcll nor tafle of the bark. When the
wind fets off tl^ ifland, tlic cinnamon groves perfume
the air for many miles out at fra, of which we have
incontcilible evidence ; 4nd mofl likely it in at that
time of the year, when the cinnamon trees arc in
bloflbm.
Of the animals that abound in this ifland, are ele-
i>hants of a very large ftzc i alfo oxen, buflalocs, deer,
logs, goats, monkeys, and fome wild bcafts; but they
had neither horfes, alFcs, or Ihecp, till they were im.
|)orted by the Europeans i nor have they any lions or
wolves. The elephants feed upon the tender twigs o(
trees, corn, and graft, as it is growing, and do the huf-
bandmen a great deal of mifchicf, by trampling down
their corn, at well as eating it, and fpoiling their trees.
The monkeys have black faces and white beards, much
refembling old men. Alligators and crocodiles aboXind,
ns do alfo fer{)cnts of a monftrout lizc s and here it an
animal in all rcfpeds like a deer, but nut bigger than
a hare. Vermin and infcn of allies. Union juice,
and fait. The bite of thefe ( rraturci 11 f) far from
being atceiuled with any ill confec|ucncc), that the
bleeding, which ii the etfec't of it, is cflcented vrry
w lif)lrl()riic. Their fowls are gcefc. dui k , turkeyn, hen*,
woodiDcks, partridges, fnipes, wild ptatock*, parro-
qucts, and a beautiful fparrow at white as fnow, all
but its head, which is black, \('itli a plume of teathrrt
ftanding upright upon it. The tail of thefe birds ii a
f(K>t in IriiL^th,
In tliis ifland the inhabitants m.nke favoiiry foups of
flcdi or llfli, which they eat with their rice : ucople of
cemlition will hav0fcvcr.1l difliet at their t.-iblcs, but
they conlifl chiefly of rice, foups, herbs, garden-roots,
and vegetables. Of fleflj and lilh thry cat but little.
Their meat is cut intolinallfquare pieces, and two or
three ounces of it laid un rhe fide of the difli by thc.^
rice, and, being feufoncd yery high, gives a relifli to
that inli|)id food. They ule no knives or forks, but
have ladles and fpoons made of the cocoa-nut fliell.
Their plates arc of brafs or china-ware j but the poor
have a broad leaf inflead of a plate, and fometimes
fcverul leaves fcwcd together with bents, where broad
ones arc not to be had. Water is their ufual drink,
which they (xiur out of a crucc or bottle, holding it
more than a foot above their heads i and fome of them
will fwallow near a quart of water in this manner with-
out gulping once. Neither wine nor beer is made in
this country, but arrack and fpirits are drawn from
rice. They never cat beef, the bull and cow being
objcifls of adori^pon. Neither the people in a high or
low flatiun eat with their wives : the man fltt by nim-
felf, and the women and children cat after he 'las
dined. In this woody and mountainoui country arc
no wheel carriages, unlefs what belong to the Dutch
near the fcacoafl. The baggage is carried ufually upon
the backs of their Haves. The chief manii^a*lturcs here
arecallico and cotton cloths: they make -Mo brafs, cop.
per, and earthen vcfTelt, fwords, knives, and working
tools : they alfo now riuko pretty good fire-arms ; and
goldfmith't work, painting, and carving, are performed
tolerably well. We may trace their foreign trade up
to the carliefl ages. They fupplicd Perua, Arabia,
Egypt, and Ethiopia, with their fpiccs, before Jacob
went down into Egypt, which it above jocx) years
iince, as appears by the hiflory of Joi'eph's bring fold
to Ifl^maehtc merchants, who were travelling with a
caravan acroft Arabia to Egypt with the fpiccs of
India, of which the cinnamon of Ceylon, that lies near
thecoaft of hither India, was no doubt the chief; and
fo profitable was ihit branch of trade, ^t|iat ail the nations
above inentwned (cntcolonies hither,' ^vhofe defccndants
were planted here when the Portugueie firft vifitcd this
coaft.
Mere the Portuguefc language it fpokcn ; however,
the natives have alangiiageof their own, which comes
nearefl to that GN)ke|i on t^e Malabar coafl : the Bra-
mins or pricfls Ipeajc a dead lak^agp^' in which the
bookt relating to their religion are written. They
write upon the leaves of the talipot cut into pieces
of three fincers bropd, and two foot tong, with a ^eel
ftyle orlxKWin. They haye long (ludiod aftronomy.
which they learnt from the Arabiant, and foretell cclipica
tolerably welt; they are great pretenders alfo to aflro-
logy, And by the |ik»fits calculate nativitijCi^ aoddire^it
pcoplcfwhen will be (he moll lucky days to enter upon
anyailiiirof mom«;it,> oC.lobefpnajouriKiyi and they
find thofe who r.rc weak enough to be in>poicd upon,
though they itay have been many titnos dtfappointed.
Their year itidiviekd into 136$ days, and every day into
30 paysdrptttfli «nt) thei<>nj^t into as manyi ai\d
they have a little eoppcutrdifli, with a hole in the bo^pm
.ofiit, wbich being put into .a ttib of water^, is tilled
during one or their pays, when it links, and then it
M' t
•f
II
^••^
308
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLDComf.Lete.
i-3;f
m
ii put into the water again to incafuic another pay ;
for they have neither Tun-dials nor clocks.
In Ceylon, the criminals are frequently impaled
alive ! others have ftakcs driven through their bodies;
fofne are hung upon trees; and many arc worried by ■
dogs, who arc fo accuftontd to the horrid butchery,
that, on the days ap{x>inted for the death of criminals,
they, by certain tokens, run to the place of execution. '
But the moft remarkable puniflimcnt is inflidk-d by the
king himfelf, who rides an elephant trained up on pur-
potc. The beaft tramples the unhappy wretch to
death, and tears him limb from limb. Some are pu-
nilhed by fines and imprifonmcnt, at the difcrction of
the judges. When the fine is decreed, the officers
fcire the culprit, wherever they meet him, llrip him
naked, his cloaths going as part of pyment^and oblige
him to carry a large ftone, the weight being increalcd
daily, by the addition of others that arc fmaller, till the
remaimkr of the multft is cither paid or remitted. Any
of the male cingloflcs may indirferently cfiarge another
within hearing (as wc do the conftables) to aid and
aflift them in the execution of their duty, or upon any
emergency ; but the women are not permitted to men-
tion the king's name, upon the fevcre penalty of having
their tongues cut out for the offence. A creditor
fometimes w ill go to the houlc of the debtor, and very
gravely affirm, that if he docs not difcharge the debt
he owes him immediately, he will dcftroy himfelf: this
fo terrifies the other, that he inftantly colleds all the
money he can, even felling his wife and children rather
than be deficient in his payment of the fum demanded.
This IS owing to a law, which fpecifics, that, if any
man deftroys himfelf on account of a debt not being
difcharged, the debtor Ihall immetliately pay the money
to the lurviving relations, and forfeit his own life, un-
lefs he is able to redeem it by a large fine to the king.
They have two modes of decidinc controverfies ; the
one is by imprecating curfes to fall upon them if they
do not (peak the tnitn ; and by the other, both perfons
are obliged to put their fingers into boiling oil, when
the perlon who can bear the pain the longefl, and with
the leaft appearance of bcii^ affetfted, is deemed in-
nocent. 1 ney have, however, methods of evading
boththefe laws; the firft, by ufing ambiguous expret
fions; andthe latter, by certain preparations, which
Ercvent the oil from doing them any injur)-. It is not
iw ful to beat a woman without permitrion from the
king ; fo that the females may thank his majefty for all
the blows they get. But they may be made to carry
heavy baflccts of fand upon their heads as long ai the
man pleaics, which is much more dreadful to theni
than a hearty drubbing. The circumftances bf the
children depend upon thofe of the mother ; for if the
mother is a free woman, they are free, but if fhe isa flave,
they are always vafTals.
They have neither phyficians nor fumcons among
them ; yet, as to phyfic, every one almoft underftands
the common remedies, applying herbs or roots, ac-
cording to the nature of the complaint; and they have
an herb which cures the bite of a fnakc. As they
abound in poifonous herbs and plants, fo they have others
that arc antidotes againft them. Their difeafes arc
chiefly fevers, Huxcs, and the fmall-pox. They arc
ncvtfr'let bloodj except by the leaches, already mention-
ed, from which they acknowledge they have fometimes
received great benefit.
With regard to the religion of thefe people, they
worfttip God, but make ne image of him ; however,
they have idols, the reprefi^ntatives of fome great men,
who formerly lived upon the earth, and arc now, they
imM[ine, mediators for them to the fupreme God of
heaven. The chief of thofe demi-g^ is Baddow,
who accordiftg to their tradition originalljr came from
• heaven to procure the happinefs of men, and afcended
thither again from Adam'a Mountain, leaving the im-
preflion of his fi»t upon tht rock. They are faid,
fifccwife, toworihip thedevili thtt heflwatd do them
no mifchief; an«J another of their objefb ofworftip is
the tooth of 4 monkey. They w«^ aWb the fun,
3
moon, and othi 1 planets. Every town has its tutelar
daemon, and ivery famify their penates, or houfhold
gods, to whom they build chapels m their courts, pay.
ing their devotions, and facrificing to them every morn-
ing ; but to the fupreme deity they eredt ho temples or
altars. Tliere arc three dalles of idbls, and as many
orders of priefts, who have their, fcveral temples, to
which eftates in land ati- appropriated. Buddow is
thechief of thefe fubordinatc deities, and his priefts
in the greateft eftccm, being all of the higheft caft or
tribe in the nation. They wear a yellow vert and
mantle, have their heads (haved, and their beards grow
to a great length. Their difciples fail down on thWr
faces before them ; and they have a ftool to fit on
wherever they vifit, which is an honour only (liewn to
their princes and great men. Thtfc priells have no
commerce with women, drink no ftiong liquor, and
eat only one meal a day ; but they are not debarred
fmm flelh, except beef. They are (tiled fons of the god
Biiddow, and cannot be called to account by the civil
power, whatever crimes they commit. There is a
fccond order of prielh, that officiate in the temples of
other idols; thefe are allo\ved to follow any fccular em-
ployment, and are not diftinguilhed from the laity by
their habits, but have, however, a certain revenue.
Every morning and evening they attend the fervice of
their temples ; and when the people faciitice rice and
fruits, the pricft prefents them before the idol, and
then delivers them to the finging men and women, and
other fcrvants that belong to the temple, and to the
poor devotees, who eat the provifions: no flelh is
ever facrificed to the idols of this clafs. The third
order of priefts have no revenues, but build temples
for themlelves, without any eledtion or confccrat^oii,
and beg money to maintain themfelvcs. 'Ihefc men-
dicants are mountebanks in their "vay, ITiewing a variety
of whimfical tricks for their bread. They are prohi-
bited by law, from touching the waters in wells or
fprings, nor muft they ufc any but what is procured
from rivers and ditches. They are confidered in Co
defpicablc a light, that it is held difgraceful to have any
connections with the.n. Wetlncfdays and S- urdays are
the days they refort to their temples; and at the new
and full moon rhey offer facrifices to the god Bud-
dow { and on new year's-ddy, in the month of March,
they offer a folemn facrifice to him, on a high moun-
tain, or under a fpreadiRg tree that is deemed facred.
The principal feftival of the Chingulays is obferved Tn
the month of July, in honour of the moon, when a
prieft goes in folemn proceflion with a garland of
Ho«cr9, to which the people prefent their offerings.
The ridiculous pageantry attending riils feftival, was
attempted to be abolifhed in 1664; but the attemjrt oc-
cafioned an infurredion, fo that the kings of Ceylon arc
obliged to let them continue tiie pompous mummer)'.
They have alfo idols of nnonftrous (hapes and forms,
made of filvef, braft, and other metals, and fometimes
of clay i but thofe in Buddow's temples are the figures
of men fitting crois-le^ed, in yellow habits, like his
priefts, reprclenring fome holy men, who, they fay,
wert teachers of virtue, and benefadors to man-
kind.
The ifland of Ceylon was fonnerly divided into nine
monarchies, bur, at prefent it is under the dominion of
one king, whole court is kept in the center of the ifland,
at a place called Digiigy-Neur: the palace is but newly
built, the gates large, ftatcly, and finely carved : the
window-frames are made of ebony, and inlaid with
(ilver : the kings elephants, troops, and concubines,, are
numerous. The guards arc commanded by Dutch and
Portuguefe rcnegado officers. This monarch affumes
great dignity, and demands much rcfpcdl, which his
lubjeifb readily pay him, as they imagine, that all their
kings immediately on their demife, are turned into
foSs. He expcdti that Chriftians (hoiild falute him
n ,
In thefe iflands the natives are very robufl, of an
olive complexion, and well featured. They are natu-
rally ingenious, and apply themfclves with great in-
duftry to various manufaClurcii, particularly the mail-
ing of (ilk and cotton. They are cautious, and (haip
in trading, courageous, and well (killed in arms. The
common people go almoft naked, having only a piece
of cotton faftened round the waift, except on fellival
days, when they wear cotton or lilk jerkins, m ith waifl-
coats, the fleeves of which reach only to their elbows.
The wealthier fort tie a piece of cloth between their
legs, and round the Wailt, next to which they have a
piece of blue, or red cotton, that reaches to the knees,
and to that is joined a large jiiece of cotton and filk,
reaching to their ancles, and girded with a fquare
handkerchief embroidered with gold or filver ; and the
whole is fecured by a large filk girdle fringed, the ends
of which hang down before ; and within this girdle, on
the left fide, they keep their money and betel, and on
the right fide a knife. They fet great value on this in-
ftrument, from its being their only weapon ; for none
but the king's. ofKcers and fbldicrs are permitted to
wear any or er. The rich have filk turbans on their
heads, richly adorned, but thofe of the poor are made
of cotton, and only ornamented with ribbons of va^'
rious colours. The wornen are fairer than the men,
and, in general, of a ver) agreeable difpofition. They
wear a coat of cotton, or filk, that reaches down to
the ancles, over which they have a long robe of taffety,
or fine cotton, that extends from the flioulders to the
feet, and is faftened round the neck by two gilt but-
tons. Their hair, which is cfteemed a great ornament,
is black ; and to obtain this, thoy keep their daughters
heads fhaved till they are eight or ten years of age, leav-
ing only a little hair on their foreheads to diftinguifh
them from the boys. They wafti their heads and hair
in water, to make the latter thick and long, and let it
hang loofe that the air may dry it ; after which they
perfume it with an odoriferous oil. When this is done,
they ftroke all the hair backwards from the forehead,
and tie it behind in a knot, to which they add a large
lock of a man's hair ; and the whole is curioufly ortia'
mcnted with flowers of various forts. The common
people have houfes built of cocoa-wood, and covered
with leaves fewed one within another ; but the fUperior
fort build their houfes of ftone, which is taken from
under the flats and rocks in the following manner : a-
mong other trees in this ifland, is one called Candou,
exceedir^ly foft, and, when drv, and fawed into planks,
is much lighter than cc>rk : the natives, who are ex-
cellent fwimmers, dive under water, and, having fixed
upon a ftone for th.it purpofe, they faften a ftrong rope
to it : after this, they take a plank of the Candou-
wood, which, having a hole Ixired in it, is put on the
rope, and forced down quite to the ftone : they then
run on a number of other boards, till the light wood
rifes up to the top, dragging the ftone along with it.
By this contrivance the natives weighed up the cannon
and anchors of a French (hip that was call away near
their coaft about a century ago.
The Maldivians, in general, are very polite, particu<
larly thofe on the ifland of Male j but they are very
libidinous, and fornication is not confidered as any
4 I crime:
m
.1
51 "} ■!
•^11 ;
■I'
1
3>o
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complete.
If
neither muft any pcrfon offer inrult to a woman I
f water.
The portal is Wil% like a fquare tower ; and on feftival
days
Captain CARTERET's VOYAGE — for makinjjUifcoveries in the Southern Ocean, &c. 311
tbc rich-
table ay-
lund it are
Cmdke of
Ipcople af-
|are 'placed
»lc, ac-
|ricfts, and
the whole
Ich pofture
[en the reft
lerved with
:ircly over,
tabic, and
|the utmoft
itc of mar-
ie pandiare,
willine to
is anmcr-
[ns the pa>
it, thewo-
■icd in the
:r the ccrc-
Irhufband's
nd a grand
The bride-
bride like-
the queen.
his bride,
nee of the
ur he muft
Hie think*
le. A wo-
his confcntt
however,
d, fhc may
idercd as a
d by one of
each ifland
is wrapped
)n the right
1 laid on the
d carried to
[riends, and
ithout being
rge piece of
It, bccomca
laid in the
tomb { and
white fand,
loth to and
rics, for thff
d and iilver
:s of the dc-
ig the ccrc-
rdations in-
theirgrave»
. fm for any
fuch refpedt
»ot even the
cafion they
e mourners
tinuc fo for
Ifapcr-
hcd, it put
tioning hii
et with the
y then fing
ceremonies,
u wood.
> fituated in
in circum-
livided into
ly one (lory
:: however,
!d with gar-
• pf water.
I oa fcftival
days
days the muficians fing and play upon the top of it.
The ground floors of the rcfpciflivc apartments -are
nifed three feet, to avoid the ants, and are covered
with filk-tapcftry, fringed, and flowered with gold.
The king's beds are hung, like hammocks, between
two pillars ornamented with gold, and when he lies
down his attendants rock him to (Icep. His drefs is
ufually a coat made of fine white clotii or cotton, with
white aiid blue edgings, faftened with buttons of folid
gold : under this is a piece of red embroidered tapeftery
that reaches down to his heels, and is faftened with a
large filk girdle fringed, with a great gold chain before,
and a locket formed of the moft precious Hones. On
his head he wears a fcarlet cap, which is a colour fo
cftcemed, that no other pcrfon may prefuinc to wear it.
This cap is laced with gold, and on the top of i: is a
large gold button with a precious ftonc. The grandei.'s
«na foldicrs wear long hair, tit the king's head is
Ihavcd once a week j he goes bare legged, but wears
fandalsof gilt copper, which arc worn only by the royal
family. When he goes abroad, his dignity is diftin-
gaifhed particularly by a white umbrella, which no
other pcrfons, except ftrangers, are pcnnitted to ufe.
He has three paces near his perfon, one of whom car-
ries his fur, another his fword and buckler, and a third
his box of betel and arcca, which he alnioft conftantly
chews. He goes to the mofque on Fridays in great
pomp, his guards dancing, and IVriking their fwords
on each others urgets to the found of niulic ; and is
attended on his return, by the principal people of the
ifland. He either walks, or is carried in a chair by
flaves, there being no beafts of burden. When the
queen appears in public, flie is attended by a great
number of female flavcs, fome of whom go Ixrfore, to
give notice to the men to keep out of the way ; and
lour ladies carry a veil of white filk over her head, that
reaches to the ground; on this.occafion, all the women
Irom the fcvcral diftricls meet her with flowers, fruits,
6ic. She and her ladies frequently bathe in the fea for
th>::r altn, for the convenience of which they have a
pur- tl; fliore clofe to the water, which is indbfed,
ar.,; of it covered with white cotton. The only
ligl 1^ ' '. chambers of the queen, or ihofe of the
iadics of quality, is what lamps afl^prd, which are kept
continually burning, it being the cuflom of the country
never to admit day-light. The drawing room, or that
part where they ufually refide, is blocked up with four
or five rows of tapeftry, the innermoft of which none
muft lift up till they have coughed, and told their
names. The guards appointed to attend on the king's
Kcrfon confift of fix hundred, who are commanded by
is grandees; arul he has confiderable magazines of
>arms, cannon, and (evcial forts of ammunition. His
revenues confift chiefly of a number of iflands, appro-
priated to the crown, with certain taxes on the various
produdlions of others ; in the money paid to purchafe
titles and ofiiccs, and for licences to wear fine cloaths.
-Bcfldes thefe, he has a claim to all goods imported by
fliipping: for when a veflcl arrives, the king is ac-
quainted with its contents, out of which he takes what
he thinks proper, at a low price, and obliges his fub-
jcdls to purchafe them of him again, at what fum he
pleads to fix, by way of exchange, for fuch com-
modities as beft (uit him. All the ambergris found in
this country f which produces more than any other part
of the Indies) is alfo the property of the king; and fo
narrowly is it watched, that a pcrfon would be puniflied
with the iofs of his right hand, if deteded in convert-
ing it to his own ufe. Moft of the nobility and gentry
live in the north part of this ifland, for the convenience
pf iKing near tlie court; and fomuch is this quarter .
eftcemed, that when the king banifties a criminal, the
JTcmJing him to the foufh is thought to be a fufiicient
punifhment.
The government here is abfolute monarchy, every
thing depending on the king's plcafure. Each attoloi\, or
province, has a naybe, or governor, who is both a prieft
and dodor of the law. He not onlv prefides over
the inferior priefts, and is vefte4 with the management
3
of all religious affairs, but he is likewifc intruftcd with
the adminiftrurion of jufticc, both in civil and criminal
cafes. They are in fiiil fo many judges, and make four
circuits every year throughout their jurifdidlion; but
they have a fupcrior, called the pandiare, who refidei
in the ifle of Male, and who is not only the fupreme
judge of all caufcs, but alfo the head of the church : he
receives appeals from the governor of each province,
but does not pafs fentcnce without confiilting feveral
learned doctors ; and from him appeals arc carried to
the kiiig, who refers the matter to nx of his privy coun-
cil. 'Itic pandiare makes a circuit once a year through
the ifland of Male (as does every governor in his re-
fpcdiveprovince) and condemns all to be fcourged who
connot fay their creed and prayers in the Arabic tongue,
and conftrue them in that of the Maldivian. At this
timcthe women muft not appear in the ftreet unveiled, on
pain of having their hair cut ofl; and their heads fliaved,
which is very difgraceful. They have various modes
of punilhmcnt for crimes. If a man is murdered, the
wife cannot profccute the criminal ; but if the deccafe^
has left any children, the judge obliges him to main-
tain them till they are of age, when they may either
profccute or pardon the murderer. Stealing any thing
valuable is puniflied wiih the amputation of a hand,
and, for triflin;; matters, ^hey are baniflied to the
fouthcrn ifl.inils. An adultrefs is puniflied by having her
hair cut oil', and ihofc guilty of perjury pay a pecuniary
inulcl. Notwithflanding the law makes homicide
death, yet a crimin.il is never condemned to die, unlefs
it is cxprelsly ordered by the king ; in which cafe he
orders his own foldicrs to execute ihc fentcnce.
The chief articles exported from thefe iflands arc
cocoa-nuts, cowries, and tortoife-fliells, the latter of
which is exceeding beautiful, and not to be met with
in any other place, except the Pliilippine Iflands. The
imptirted articles are, iron, fteel, Ipiccs, china, rice, &c.
all which, as has been obferved, are ingrofled by the
king, who fells them to his fubjeds at his own price.
They have only one fort of money, w'nich is filver, called
lorrins, each of which is about the v-'.je of eight pence.
It is two inches long, and folded, the king's name being
fet upon the folds in Arabic charadlers. One thoufand
two hundred cow rics make one lorrin. In their own
market they frequently barter one thing for another.
Their gold and liUer is all imported from abroad, and
is current here as in all other parts of the Indies, by
weight.
The Maldives are happily placed, with refpe(ft to each
other, for producing mutual commerce, to the refpec-
tivc inhabitants; for though the 13 Attolons are in
the fame climate, and all or them very fertile, yet they
produce fuch diftl-icnt commodities, that the people
in one cannot live without what is found in another.
The inhabitants have likewifc fo divided thcmfelves, as
greatly to enhance this commercial advantage ; for all
the weavers live in one ifland, the goldfmiths in ano-
ther, and the like of the different manufadhires. In
order, Kowever, to render the communication eafy,
thefe artificers have fmall boats, built high on the fides,
in which they work, fleep, and eat, while failing from
one ifland to another to expofe their goods to falc, and
fometimes they arc out a confiderabfe time before they
return to their fixed habitations.
(c.) Bombay. This is feated on an ifland near the
weft coaft of India, in 19 deg. N. latitude, and in 72
deg. B. longitude. It is an excellent harbour, from
whence the Portuguefc, the firft pofleflbrs of the
Europeans, gave it the name of Boonbay, now cor-
ruptly called Bombay. Ihe ifland on which it ftands,
is about 20 miles in circumference: the chief town is a
mile in length, meanly buih : the fort ftands at a dif-
tancc from it. The ifland is inhabited by Englifh,
Portuguefc, rnd Moors: there are three or four moie
fmall towns on the ifland. The foil is barren, and the
water bad ; they preferve therefore the rain water in
ciflerns; and there is a well of pretty good frefli water
about a mile from the town. The king of Portugal
transferred this ifland to Charles II. king of England,
as
■■^.'sl;
3««
VOYAGES ROUND ihe WORLD Complete.
1'
\
t(
^3 part of the portion ot the Intanta Kathcrinc, whom
he married in the year 1662, and the king afterwards
pave it to the Eaft India Company. The Joxx. has been
beficgcd both by the Mooul and the Dutch, but neither
of them were able to take it> Kotwithfhinding Bom-
bay lies within the tropics, yet the climate is not dif-
agrceable .j the conHitution of Europeans 1 there being
but few days in the courfc of the vcar, in which the
weather is in any extreme. The (hort hot fcafon precedes
the periodical return of the rains: the night dews,
however, are very dangerous, therefore great care ihould
be taken hot to be expofed to them. If people would
but live temperately in this place, they need not be
afraid of the climate, which is far healthier than in any
other of the Europeans fcttlements; and there are fome
good phyficians on the ifland. They have wet weather
at Bombay about four months in the year, whici) is
commonly introduced by a very violent thunder dorm :
during this fcafon all trading vclTcIs are laid up. The
rains beg'n about the latter end of May, and continue
tillScptr mber, when the black merchants keepa fedival,
gilding a cocoa>nut. which they confecrate and commit
to the waves. What they abound in mod is their
groves of cocoa-nut trees, their rice fields, and onion
grounds. Their gardens alfo produce mangoes, jacks,
and other Indian truits; and they alfo make Targe quan-
tities of fait, with very little trouble, from the fea-
water.
The town or city of Bombay is a mile long, and fur-
rounded by a wall or ditch ; it has alfo a pretty good
caftle; fo that it is well fecured, and efteemed one of
the (IrongcH places belonging te our Ealt India Com-
pany. The houfes of the Englifti confid, in general, of
a ground floor, with a court both before and oehind, in
which are out-houfes and offices. Mod of the windows
are of tranfparcnt oyder-lhe!!], which admit a tolerable
good light. The flooring of their habitations is a fort
of (lucco, compofcd of (hells that have been burnt ; this
they call chunam, w hich being well tempered, and be-
coming hard, receives an excellent polifli. The Englifh
church is a very neat building, fituate on a pleafiuit
green, round which are the houfes of the Englim : as to
thofe in which the black merchants rcfide, they are, in
general, ill contrived flruftures ; and the pagodas of the
gentoos, are mod wretched edifices.
The government is entirely Englidi, fubordinatc to
the India Company, who appoint by commiflion a pre-
lidcnt and council ; and the maritime and military force
isunder the immediate direction of the prelident, who
\fi diled commander in chief, llie common foldicrs
are of many nations ; but w hat are called topaflfcs, arc
for the moH part black, or of a mixed breed from the
Portugiiefe. There are alfo regular companies of the
natives, who arc called feapoys. Any popifh pried,
except a Portugucfc, may odiciate in the churches of the
three Romaa catholic priflies, into which Bombay is
divided ; but the Englifli formed an objeng-
tngto their madcr: however, there are nodifputes m
this town about profciTions in religion, all alike being
tukrated. Liberty of confciencc, freedom of fpeech,
riches, and honour^ didinguiih the people and clmie.
Bombay is inhabited by a mixture of all nations ;
Englifli, Portuguefe, and Indians, amounting, as it is
laid, to 50 or 60,000. The prefident of Surat is ufually
governor of the place, who has a deputy here, and courts
of jullice, regulated as in England. The governor,
when he -is upon the ifland, appears in greater date
than the governor of foit St. George, beiiw attended,
when he goes abroad, by two troops of Moors and
Bandarins, with their dandards. The natives, and
thofe who are fcafoned to the country, enjoy a tolerable
good date uf health, and, if they ufe temperance, live to
■ good old age. Near Bombay are feveral iflands, the
•tains a sreat number of handfome
churches, convents, and doilcn, with a (bitely large
hofpiMl,
Ca'ptA'in CARTERET'S voyage — for making Difcovcrics in the Southern Ocean, &c. 31 j
hant cut in
icarancc of
ur of that
one* entire
there is «
ifity is fup-
ligh. It i»
d above 40
k cut Hat.
Itand the
vcvf r, have
when they
ind injured
ibie. This
each other;
disfigured,
ith a drawn
ther. The
ias an area
range of
mcnt orna-
corniccs of
f this tem-
ntoo-build-
gehius and
xcn made.
ig about 76
nated place
s in rock»,
fuch Euro-
me)y fertile,
land, which,
ceabic fitua-
ider the re-
me the pro-
was given to
:fe defrauded
the invafion
nt bordering
)eofgentoos,
int of arms.
I the mouiii>
;ported to be
fo well and
lemy caA zp^
eflible rocks.
lis court, and
n the avowed
making war.
It his intereft
arc all bred
former they
rpcnd greatly
a piftol, and
\mds are ex-
ion, but thcic
fcs are fmail,
European
icouragement
:irown coun-
n them front
id 74 deg. 30
ind, about 20
the large and
lal place h -
Has taken by
nee of a fine
}f the greateib
E town. The
rreat number
nurches, and
; town is veiy
It fo well in-
:e is'H noUe
from the city,
1 by a beauti-
rof handfome
I (hteiy large
hMpttiil,
hofpital, all well endowed, and kept in good repair.
The mnrket-place takes up an acre of ground ; and in
the (hops about it may be had the produce of Europe,
Bengal, China, and other countries oi lefs note. Every
church has a fct of bells, fome of which are continu-
ally ringing. Their religion is Koman Catholic, and
they have a moft horridcruel inqiiifition. There are
a great number of Indian converts, who . generally
retain fomc of their old cuftoms, particularly, they
cannot be brought to cat beef. However, there are
many gentoos in the city, who are tolerated, bccaiife
they arc more indultrious than the Chriftians, and better
artilh. The clergy arc very numerous, and illiterate;
but the churches are finely embelliihed, and have
numbers of images. Their lioufcs, which are of ftone,
are fpacious and handfome, and make a fine fliew ; but
ihey are jX)orly linirticd within. The inhabitants arc
contented witn greens, roots, and fruit, which, with a
little bread, rice, and fill, is their only diet, though they
have hogs and fowls in plenty. They arc much ad-
didtdd to women, and are generally weak, lean, and
feeble. Captain Hamilton, w hen he was in this ifland,
flood on a hill near the city, and counted above 80
churches, convents, and monafteries, and he was told,
that there' w ere about -^0,000 priefts and monks. The
body of St. Francis Xavier is buried in St. Paul's
Church, and, as they pretend, performs a great many
miracles. None of the churches, except one, have
glafs windows, for they make ufeof oyfter-ftiells inftead
of glafs. The town itfelf has few manufadtures, or
produ'>chor off Prince's Ifland, in
the (trait of Sunday.
Friday the 25th of September, we weighed, arid god
under fail ; for wC could not get a fufficicnt quantity of
wood and water at Prince's Ifland, to complete our fiock<
the wet monfuon having butjuft fet in, and confe-
qucntly not rain enough had fell tofuppiy the fprings.
We would have departed from this part of the ifland
fooner, but wc had the wind frefti from the 3. E. which
made a lee fliorc j but it being this day in our favour,
and more moderate, we worked over to the Java fhore.
Wc anchored in the evening, iri a bay c.-llcd by fom«
New, and by others Canty Say, which is formed by an
ifland ^of the fame name. In fhefe parts New Bay is
the bc'ft place for woodirig and watering; the water
being fo clear and cxcejlent, that, in order to get a freflli
fuppTy, wc ftavcd all that had heeii take. \ on board at
Batavia and Prince's Ifland It is fo i,^ Sad from a
fine ftrong run on the Java fhore, whici; ; iown froiti
i
'■^M
.11
1 .
■i
3»4
VOYAGES ROUND the WORLD Complex 8.
Ml .
m
I
the land into the fca, and by means of a hoafc it may
be laded into the boats, and the caflu filled without
putting them on Ihorc, which renders the work very
eafy and expeditious. There is a fmall reef of rocks
within which the boats go, not in the lead dangerous,
and the boats lie in as fmooth water, and as efTciflually
flieltered from any fw ell, as if they were in a mill-pond ;
and if a (hip, when lyine here, fliould be driven from
her anchors by a wind tliat blows upon the (hore, (he
may, with the grcatcd eafe, run up the palTage between
New Ifland and Java, where there is fulficient depth of
water for the langcfi velTcl, and a harbour, in which,
being land locked^ the will find perfedl fccurity. Wood
may be procured any where, either upon Java or New
Idand, neither of which at this part are inhabited. In
our prefent ftation, we had 14 fathoms water, with a
fine fandy bottom. The peak of Prince's Ifland bore
N. 13 W. The weflcrmoft point of New Ifland S. 82
W. and the eaflermod point of Java that was in fight,
N, E. We were diftant from the Java (hore a mile and
a quarter, and from the watering-place a mile and a
Jialf. In a few days having completed our wood and
water, we weighed, and Hood out of the (Irait of Sun-
day, with a fine frelh gale at S. E. which continued
till we were diftant from the ifland of Java 700 leagues.
On Monday the 23rd of November, we had in view
the coiH of Africa; on the 28th, at day-break, we
tnadc the land of tlr: Cape of Good Hope ; and, in the
evening, call anchor in Table Bay. Here we found only
a Dutch n.i]i fioni Europe ; and a fnow belonging to
the C'pe, which was in the company's fervice, for the
inhabr.ants are not pcnnitted to have any (hipping.
This liay, in fummer, is a good harbour, but not in
winter j on which account the Dutch vc(rcls lay here no
longer :haa the i '1 of November, after which thc^
go to Falfe Bay, where they are Iheltered from the N.
W. winds, which blow here with great violence. At
this place we breathed a pure air, had wholefome food,
went freely about the country, which is exceeding plea,
fant i and found the inhabitants hofpitabic and polite ;
there being fcarcciy a gentleman, either in a public or
private ftution, from whom we did not receive fome
civility ; and Captain Carteret obfcrves, " he (hould ill
deferve the favours they bcftowcd, if he did not par-
ticularly mention the Am and fecond governor, and the
fifcal." We continued near fix weelu atthe cape, in
order to recover our fick.
On Wcdnefday the 20th of Januaiy, in the evening,
A D 760 *^ ^^^ '*''' ""** before tt was dark cleared
'9' the land. After a fine and pleafant paf-
Cige, on Wedncfday the 20th, we anchored off the
ifland of St. Helena, from whence we again failed on
Sunday the 24th. 0^ Saturday the 30th, we came in
fight of the N. E. part of Afcenfion Ifland, and early in
the morning ran in clofe to it. We fent out a boat to
difcover the anchoring-place, and in the afternoon
came to an anchor in Crofs Hill Bay. To find this
place, bring the larged and moft confpicuous hill upon
the illand to bear S. E. When the (nip is in this po-
fition, the bav w ill be open, right in the middle between
two other hills, the wellcrmou of which is called Crofii
Hill, and gives name to the bay. A Pag-ftaff is upon
this hill, which, iia (hip brings to bear J. S. £. half E.
or S. £. by E. and runs in, keeping fo till (he is in 10
fathom water, (he will be in the bed part of the bay.
In our run along the N. E. (Idc of the ifland, we ob-
ferved fevcral other fmall fandy bays, in fome of which
our boat found good anchorage, and faw plenty of
turtle. At this jSace, where wc lay, they alfb abound.
In the evening we landed a few men to tum the turtle,
that (hould come on (hore during the night, and in the
morningthey had fecured 1 8, froia 4 to 6cx> weight
each. There being no inhabiunti on this ifland, we,
according to a ufual cuflom, left a letter in a bottle,
with our names, and dellination, the date, and a few
other particulars.
On Monday the ift of February, we weighed, and
fet (Ml. On the 1 gjh, we came in fight of a (hip, in
thefbuth quarter, which hoiftcd French colours 1 and
on Saturday the 20th, the ucked it) order to fpetk with
1
us. Her commander, wt, after (he had left ui. found
to be M. de Bougainville, whofe frequent traces of th«
Englifli navigators had very remarkably occurred in the
courfe of the three vovagcs, which they made round
the world. This gentleman made a voyage to Faulk-
land's iflands, called by the French, after the Dutcl?,
Mauritius, in the year 1765, and was (cen by commo*
dore Byron, in the ftraits nf Magellan, as we have re-
lated in our hillorv of that voyage. Soon after his re-
turn home, he failed from port L'Orient, in November,
1 766, on board the Bourdcufc frigate, attended by the
Etoile floop, on a voyage of difcovery, and to encoiti..
pafs the world : but being baffled in his attempts topaft
the (traits of Magellan, he returned to the caflern coaft
of South America, arid wintered at Buenos A>res. Oi\
the return of the feafun, he renewed his attempt with
better fucccfs, touched at the ifland of Juan Fernandez,
where he flayed two months, followed Captain Wallii
and Capuin Carteret, in the manner already related,
and, bv fuccefsfully completing his defign, became
the fir(t native of France, who had gone round the
world, at Icaft in one continued voyage. At this time
he Mils on his return in the Dourdcufc^ having left the
Etoile at the Mauritius: he had alio touched at the
ifland of Afcenfion; and after having hailed us, fent
an olliccr on hoard, in order to receive fome letters,
which were to be conveyed to France, who, under co-
lour of general converfation, endeavoured to obtain in-
formation concerning the route and incidents of our
voyage, while by a ft ring of plaufiblc fidions he con-
cealed their own; but Captain Carteret could not be
brought to be communicative, fo that all the endeav-
ours of the Frenchman proved fruitlcfs: on the other
hand, the crew of the boat in which the ofiicer had ar-
rived fcon imparted all they knew to thofe of our fai-
lors who convcrfed with them. Captain Carteret ob-
ferves very iuftly on this tranfadlion, "that an artful
attempt to draw him into a breach of his obligation to
fccrecy, whilft the French commander impofed a fidion,
that he might not violate his own, was neither liberal
nor juft."
Wc had now a frefli gale, and all our fails fet, when
the French fliip, though foul fronft a long voyage, and
we had been juft cleaned, fliot by us as if we had been
at anchor. On Sunday, the 7th of March, we paflcd be-
ttt-ecn the weftern iflands of St. Michael and Tercera.
As we proceeded tartiic: to the weftward, the gale in-
creafcd, and on the i tth it blew very hard from W. N^
W. with a great fca, which blcwour fore-fail all to pieces,
before we could get the yard down; this obliged us t*
bring to; and having bent a new fail, we bore away
again. On Tuefday, the 1 6th, we were in latitude 49
deg. 1 5 min. north, and on the 1 8th, we found ourfelves
by the depth of water in the channel. The next day
we had a view of the St.irt-Point; and on the 20th
after a line palTage, and a fair wind from the Cape of
Good Hope, to our great joy, the Swallow came to an
anchor at Spithcad : and to what can we afcribe her ar-
riving fafc at laft, after having gone through, appa-
rently, infurmountable difticulties, but to the merciful
interpofition of a particular Providence. In following
her and her brave ci^w, through this voyage, our afto-
ni(hment is excited, not Co much at the number and im-
portance of the difcoveries made, but that fuch wants,
fuch embaraflments, and fuch dangers, as theic neg-
Icded and devoted people had to encounter, (hould hava
been overcome, in a (hip that had been thirty years in
the fervice! It is alfo no lefs furpriling, how it came to
pafs, that fo able and gallant an ofticer (hould have
been fo cruelly treated, when fent upon a fervice, which,
in almoft evqry other inftance, has been particularly at-
tended to, and received the mod ample fupplies: and,
to conclude, if we confider the many impediments
which lay in the way of Captain Carteret, beyond what
any other navigator had to (Iruggle with, we mud ac-
knowledge that this voyage does great honour to him
as the condudor of it : indeed this fcnfible ofticcr ieems
to have been animated with the true fpirit of difcovery,
and to have pofltrlTed fuch an uncommon (hare of forti-
tude and pcneverance,. as nothing (hort of death could
fubdue. A
iU Tct, when
voyage, and
*'c had been
^e pafled be-
nd Tcrcera.
he gale in-
fromW.N^
allto pieces,
>liged us t*
E bore awajr
latitude 49
nd ourfelves
lie next daf
in the 20th
the Cape of
came to an
:ribe her ar-
JUgh, appa-
:hc merciful
In foHowing
;e, our ado-
>bcr and im-
fuch wants,
t thefe ncg-
Ihould hava
irty years in
w it came to
(hould have
vice, which,
rticularly at-
pplies: and,
mpedimenti
Kyond what
ve mud ac-
lour to him
Qliicer items
>f difcovcry,
are of forti-
dcath could
A
NEW, Authentic, and complete account and narrative, «f
A Voyage Towards the North Pole^
UNDERTAKEN and PERFORMEDi
Bythe Hon* Com. Phipps^ (now Lord MulgRave)^
In his Majefty's Ship the RACEHORSE, accompanied by
Capt. LUTWYCH in the Carcase Sloop^
TO WHICH IS PREFIXED.
^ genuine Account of the fcveral Voyages undertaken for the Difcoverjr of a
North-East Paffage to China and Japan.
INTRODUCTION.
IT is fortunate for comnwrce, and the intcrcourfe of
nations, that there is implanted man's nature a
defire of novelty, which no prefent gratification can
fttiafy I that when he has vifited one region of the
earth, he it ftill, like Alexander, fighing for another to
explores and that, after having efcapca one danger in
his progrefs, he is no lefs eager to encounter others, that
may cbnce to oMlrudl him in tbc courfe of his pur-
fuiu.
If the hiAory of former hardfhips could have de-
ten«d men from engaging in new aidventures, the voy-
age, the ptrticulan of which we ure now about to re-
late, would probably never have been undertaken. The
dreary regions that furround the poles arc fo little ac-
cuftomedto feel the kindly influences of the enlivening
fun, and are fo deftitute of the ordinary produdions of
the earth in happier climates, that little Icfs than one
whole quarter of the globe is, by its (Icrility, rendered
uninhabitable by human beings, and but thinly occupied
by a very inconftderable numl^r of the race of qua
drupedes. The many and almod infuperablc difficul-
ties that mull therefore be expe(flcd in traveriing thefe
forlorn defarts, where no relief is to be expedled, but
from the favourable interpofition of that power, whofc
merciful providence extends to the remoteft comers of
the earth, are, upon refl»aion, enough to cool the ar-
dour of the moll enterprifing, and to dagger the rcfo-
lution of the mofl intrepid.
In the contention between powers, equally formed
by nature to meet an oppofition, it may be glorious to
(^v,.'Comc; but to encounter raging fcas, tremendous
rocks, and bulwarks of folid ice, and defperately to pcr-
fift in attempts to prevail againft fuch formidable ene-
mies; as the contli£l is hopelefs.fo the event is certain.
The hardiefl and mod (kilful navigator, after expofing
himfelf and his companions to the mod perilous dan-
gers, and fufTering in proportion to his hardincfs the
molt complicated difueiTc^, muil at laft fubmit to re-
turn home without fuccefs, or parifli in his peffcvcrance.
This oblervation will be fufficiently juftified, by \
brief recapitulation of the voyages that have been un-
dertaken, v/ith a view to the difcovcry of a north-eafl
paflagc to China and Japan.
Jm firft who atumpted thii difcovcry wa»Sir Hugh
Willoiighby, with three fliips, fb early as the year 1 553,
the sera of perilous eriterprizcs. This gentleman failed
to the latitude of 75 degrees north, within fight, as it
is imagined, of Now Greenland, now calitd Si)itlber-
gen; but by a llorin was driven back, and obliged tqf
winter in the river Arzcm, in I^pland, where he was
frozen to death with uli his company. He left upon
his table a concifc account of .ill his difcoveries, in
which he mentions, having Tailed v. ithin fight of a
country in a very hitjh htirude, about which geogra-
phers are divided ; lome affirming, as hat been faid,
that it could be no other than New Greenland, after-
wards difcovered.atul named by the Dutc!. Spitlbcrgen;
others, that what he faw was only a fog-bank; and of
this latter opmion is Capt. Wood, in able navigator, of
whom we (hall have occafion n fpeak hereafter.
To Sir Hugh Wiiioughby fucceeded Captain Bur-
roughs, afterwards Comptroller of the Navy to Queen
Elizabeth. This gentlcnaaii attempted the pa(!age
with better fortune, and returned full of hope, but
without fuccefs. HepafTcd the North cape in 1556;
advanced as far north as the 78th deg. dilcovcrcd the
Wy gate or flrait that divides Nova Zembta from tl>e
country of the Sammoyds, now fubjcd to Rufili: and
having palled the cafternmoft point of that Hi ii, ar-*
rived at an open fea, from whence he returned, having,
as he imagined, difcovcrcd the palTage fo painfully
fought, and fo ardently ilciired. Some affirm, his dif-
coveries extended beyond the 80th deg.of latitude, to a
country altogether defolate, where the mountains wer«
blue ai^d the valleys fnow.
Be that as it may, the favourable report of Captain
Burroughs encouraged Queen Elizabeth to fit out two
ftout velTels to perfciit the difcovcry. The command
of thefe (hips v.as given to the Captains Jackman and
Pctt.who, in I J 80, failed through the fame ftrait, that
had been difcovcrcd by Burroughs, an i entered thi
eaftcrn fea; where the ice poured in fo fall Upon them,
and the weather became (o tempeftuous, that after en-
during incredible hardfhips, artd fuftaining the moft
dreadful (hocktof ice and Teas, terrible even in the re-
lation, they were driven back and fcparated; and nei-
tiicr I'ett nor his fb'p or crew were aver heard of after-
wards.
After
m
r
316 Commodore PHIPPS (now Lord MULGRAVE's) VOVACiE
iiii-
After this diraftcr and difappointmcnt, the dcfirc
of vilitlnj!; the iro/.cn fcas to the N. K. began to abate
among the Knglidi, but was airuiuciJ by the Dutch
with an olillinate |>erfeverance, peculiar to that phlec-
nntit: naiion. 'l"hc firft Dutchman we read of who
made the attempt was John Cornelius, of whofe voyacc,
in 1595. we have but a very imperfect account; he
was Ibllowid however in 1606 by William Uarrans,
or, as fomc write, Barents, an able and experienced
fcaman and mathematitian, who being fupplicd with
every nccelfary for fo hazardous a voyage, by the gene-
rofity and patronage of Prince Maurice, proceeded in
the fame ccKirfe which had been pointed out to him
by the l-jiglilii n.ivij^ators ; but having palFcd the
VVygate, found the like incumbrances, and the like
tempelh whkh the Knglifli had experienced; and not
being able to bear upaganirt them, returned thoroughly
convinced, that the wilhed-for patfage was not to be
attained in that diredion. However, he traverfed the
coaft of Nova Zcmbla, gave names to fcveral promon-
tories and head-lands, and planned to himfelf a new
courfe to Iker, by which he hoped toaccomplifh what
he had failed in difcovering, by following the fleps of
thofe who ha.l gone before him.
In 1607, animated rather than difcouraged by dif-
appointment, he entered upon his fecond voyage, with
the fpirit of a man fully prepoirefled with fuccefs. He
had heard, that fomc of the whalers, who had now be-
gun to frequent the north feas, had, either by defign or
accident, advanced much farther to the northward
than thofe w ho had been jnirpofely fitted out upon dif-
coveries ; he therefore determined to lleer to the north-
ward of Nova Zenibla, till he fliould arrive at the
heii^ht of the polo, under which he was perfuaded he
fliould find an open fea ; and by changing his courfe
to the fouthward, avoid thofe obftrudions which had
retarded his paflage to theN. K.
In this hope he continued till he arrived on the coaft
of Nova Zembla, where before he had reached *he
77th deg. he was fo rudely attacked by the mountains of
ice, that every where afliiiled him, that not being able
to withrtand their fury, he was driven againft the rocks,
and his fliip dalhr'' to pieces. Barents and the greateft
part of his crew got lafc to land, but it was to ex-
perience greater mifer)- than thofe underwent who
peri Hied in the attempt. They were obliged to winter
in a country, where no living creature bcfides thcm-
ftlvcf appeared to have cxiuence; and where, not-
uithllanding their utmoft clforts to preferve their
boiliis from the cold, the He(h perilhcd ujion the bones
of fome of them, and others died of the moft excruciat-
ing pains.
In this extremity, and notwithftanding the anguilh
they endured, thofe who furvived had ftill the fortitude
and ingenuity to frame a pinnace from the wreck of
their broken (hip, in which, at the approach offum-
mer, they made lail for Lapland ; but before they ar-
rived at Colu, their Captam died, and with him the
hopes of pel feding his difcovery.
It was now the adive feafon for naval chtcrprizcs.
Prixate adventurers began to fit out (liips for the north
feai. Innumerable fea animals had been obferved to
balk upon the ice ; the tuflcedwell broke her main-
top-fail-yard in the ftings, the firft difafkr that had
happened, which, however, was cafily repaired. The
weather now began to grow hazey, a circumftance that
frequently happens in the polar regions, and darkeiu
the air with the obfcurity of night.
from this time till June 22, when they fell in with
the ice in latitude 75 deg. 59 min. N. nothing material
occurred. On that day, at noon, they obferved a con-
tinent of ice ftretching to an imperceptible diftancc, in
a diredion from E. S. E. and W. N. W. They bore
away along the ice till the 28th, when they found it
join to the land of Nova Zembla.
On the 29tb, they ftood away to the fouth. to get clear
of the icci-but unfortunately found themfclves embayed
in it. At 1 1 at night the Profperous bore down upon
the Speedwell, crying out, ice upon the weather-bow, on
which the Speedwell clapt the helm hard a weather, and
veered out the main-fail to ware the ftiip; but before fl»c
could be brought to on the other tack, fhe tf ruck on a
ledge of rocks, and ftuck faft. They fired guns of dif-
■ ' trcCi.
|\Vffl.\nr().^
fcarch ol'
in 1610,
Juf otlu-M,
fiuau' [KT-
Y, cxaMiiii-
cnntinq^c
»lirc>.*ti(J>i
liilcJ, that
jction, ami
|cr mutcciaV
ifccution of
Kngli/li;
jworld with
[() the pole,
the arrival
ll Sir John
iea, with a
lilians, and
:hlng from
u.
:inn board the
om the Buoy
m {he 4th of
ound. where
' and recruit
hor and con-
' entered the
of the year
e her nuin-
:er that had
aired. The
mftancc that
and darkens
' fell in with
ling material
rrved a con-
: diOance, in
They bore
ey found it
I, to get clear
ves embayed
: dowa upon
thcr-bow.on
weather, and
ut betbrc flie
Itruck on a
guns of dif.
trcCi,
For making DISCOVERIES towards the NORTH POLE, &.c,
3'7
trtfi, but were not heard, and the fog being To thick,
that land could not be difccrncd, though clofc to the
flcrn of their Ihipt no relief was now to be cxpedU
cd, but from providence and their own endeavours.
In fucb a fituation, no defcription can cquil the rela*
tion of the Captain himfcif, who, in the language of
the times, has given the following full and pathetic
account.
" Here, fays he, wc lay beating upon the rock in a
moft frightful manner, for the ^ace of three or four
houn, uftng all polPible means to fave the fliip, but in
vain I forit olew fo hard, that it was wholly out of our
power to carry out an anchor capable to do us any fer-
vice. At length we faw land dole under our Aern.to the
great amazement of us all, which before we could not
lee for the foggy weather > fo I commanded the men to
get out the boau before our mad came by the board,
which was done. I fcnt the boatfwain towards the Ihore
in the pinnace, to fee if there was any poiribilit]^ of
landing, which 1 much feared, becaufc the fea ran fo high,
tn halfan hour he returned with this anfwer, that it was
impoflible to land a man, the fnow being in high cliffs,
the Ihorc was inaccclTible. This was tnd tidmgs t fo
then it was high time to think on the fafety of our fouls,
and we went altogether to prayers, to belcech God to
have mercy on us, for now nothing but individual ruin
appeared befbre our eves. After prayers, the weather
cleared up a little, and looking over the Item, I faw a
fmall beach diredly with the (Vem of the (hip, where I
thought there might be fomc chance of getting on fliorc.
I therefore fentolf the pinnace a feconatime, with fome
men in her to be iird landed, but (he duril not venture
to attempt the beach. I then ordered out the long-boat
widi twenty men to land, who attempted it, and got
ftfc on (hors. They in the pinnace feeing that, foU
lowed, and landed their men likewife, and Mth vefleU
leturned to the (hip without any accident. The men
on Ihore dclired fomc iire>arms and ammunition, for
there were many bears in light. I therefore ordered
two barrels of powder, fome fmall arms, fome provi.
iions, with my own papers and money, to be put on
board die pinnae*] but as (he put off from the (hip's
fide, a fea ovcrfet her, fo that all was loft, with the life
of one nun, and fcveral others uken up for dead. The
pinnace likewife was daihed to pieces, to our great for-
row, as bv that difafter, one lueans of efcaping from
this difmal country, in cafe the Profperous defertcd us,
was cut off*. The long-boat being on board, and the
fea running high, the boatfwain and fome others would
compel me and the Lieutenant to leave the (hip, faying
it was impotfible for her to live long in that fea, and
that they nad rather be drowned than I; but deliring
me when I came on (bote, if it were potTiblc, to fend
the boat again for them. Before wc got half way to
(hore the ftiip overfet, fo making all polfible hafte to
land the men we had on board, I went off to the (hip
again, to &vethofe poor men who had been fo kind to
woe before. With great hazard I got to the quarter of
the (hip, and they came down theudder into the boat,
only one man was left behind for dead, who had before
beencaft away in the piniucc; fo I returned to the
ihore, though very wet and cold. We then hauled up
the boat, and went up the land about a flight (hot,
where our men were making a fire and a tent with can-
vafs and oars, which we had faved for that purpofe, in
nrhich we all lay that night wet and weary. Ine next
morning the man wc len on board having recovered,
got upon the mizen-maft, and prayed to oe uken on
Store, but it blew fo hard, and the lea ran fo high, that
tho'he was a very pretty failpr, none would venture to
brinshimoff.
"The weather continuing blowing with extremefogs,
and with froft and fnow, and all the ul-compaded wea-
ther that could be imagined put together, we built
more tents to preferveourfelvest and trie (hip breaking
In pieces, came all on Ihore to the fame place where we
landed, which fcrved us for (helter and firing. Befides,
there came to us fomc hogfliewb of flour, and brandy in
No. 3«.
good lltwe, which was no little cmniurt in our grea' ex-*
trcmity. We now lay between hope and defpa r, pray-
ing for fair weather, that Captain 1 lawcs nnulit find
us, which it was impoiTible for hiih ever to do while
the weather continued foogyi but fearing at the famd
time that he might be calTaway as well as we*
" But fuppofing we nevcrwere td fee Kim again, t waa
refulved to try the utmoll to fave as many as 1 could in
the long-boat. In order thereunto ^e raifed her tw«
feet, ami laid a deck upon her (o kc«p the fea out m
much as potTiblei and with this boat, and thirty men,
for Ihc would carry no more, 1 intended to row and fail
to RufTia, but the crew not being fatisfied who (hould be
the men, began to be very unruly in their mind and be-
haviour, every one havinnumuch reafon to fave him-
felf as another, fomc holding confuiution to fiive the
boat, and all to run the like fortune i but here brandy
was our beft friend, for it kept the men always fox'd,
fo that in all their dcfigns I could prevent them. Some
were in the mind to go by land, but that 1 knew was
impolTible to any man ; neither had we provilions nor
ammunition to defend us from the wild beafts; fo the
paffage by land L cins impradicaMc and nopaffage by
fea to be attempted till forty men were dcftroycd, I will
Iviave it to the confideration of any, whether wc were
not in a moft deplorable condition, without the interpo-
fition of divine providence.
" The weathercontinued ftill very bad, with fogs,fi»Bw,
rain, and froft, till the 9th day of our being on (hore,
which was the 8th day of July, when in the morning it
cleared up, and toourgrcntjoy one of our people cned
out a fail, which proved Captain Flawest lowefet fire
to our town, that he might fee where we were, which
he prefently difcovered, fo came up, and f^nt his boat
to us : but before I went oft. I wrote a brief relation of
the intention of the vo;^age, with the accident (hat had
befallen us, and put it into a glafs bottlci and left it irt
the fortification I had there built > fo by twelve o'clock
wc all got fafe on board, but left all on (hore that wc
had faved from the fliip ; for wc much feared it would
prove fogey again, and that we (hould be driven once
more on this miferable country ; a country, for the moft
part.covered perpetually with fnow, and what is bare being
like bogs, on whofe furface grows a kind of mofs, bear-
ing a blue and yellow flower, the whole produd): of the
earth in this defolate region. Under the furface, about
two feet deep, we came to a firm body of ice, a thing
never heard of before; and againft the icc-cliifs. which
are as high as either of the fore-lands in Kent, the Vdk
has waflied underneath, and the arch overhanging, moft
fearful to behold, fupports mountains of fnow, which, I
believe, hath lain there ever fince the creation."
Thus far in Claptain Wood's own words. He ^iddi*
that by the tides letting diredlly in upon the (hore, it
may be affirmed «ith certainty, that there is no p^age
to the nonhward. One thing remarkable in his rela-
tion, and which feettls to Contradid the report of formed
navintors, is, that the fea is there falter than he had yet
taftra it elfewhere, and the deareft in the world, for
that he could fee the (hells at the bottom, though the
fea was four hundred artd eighty reet deep.
Beinsall embarked On board the Profp«t«us, dn the
!thof July they changed tlieir courfe. ind ftecrcd for
ijlgland; and, on the 23rd of Auguft, they arrived
fafe in the Thames, without any remarkable accident
intervening.
After the milcarriage of this voyaget on which the
higheft expedations had been formed, the moll cxpe^
rienced navigators in England feemed to agree, that a
paiTagc by the N. or N.£. had no exiftence. They
were the more confirmed in this error, for an error it is,
by the reafons afligfied by Capuin Wood, for changing
his opinion on this matter; for,before he went upon the
dlfcovery, he was fully peifuaded himfelfj and like- Te
pcrfuaded many others, that nothing was more renain.
When, however, he firft faw the ice, he imagined it was
onlv that which joined to Greenland, and that no folid
body of ice extended fiuther from land than twenty
4 ^ leagues 1
3i8 CoMMODOKi PHIPP8 (now Lord MULORAVE'i) VOYAGE
i I
M
leagues ; in thi» pcrfuafion he altcrcil hi« courfe, and
coaOrd along in thediroltion in which the ict '«y, ex-
pelling, at every cape or hcad-lami of ice, after running
icertain diftancc, to lind un ojjening into the Polar
ocean I but after running two or three glafles to the
northward in one bay, he found himfelf entangled in
another j and thusit continued till his ftiip was wrecked.
By thi« experiment, he found the opinion of Barents
confuted, namely, " that by Hearing the middle courfc
between Spitlbereen and Nova Zcmbia, an open fea
might beatraincd, in which i fliip might fafcly fail as
fiiiras the pole." From his own experience, he there-
fore pronounced, that all the Dutch relations were for-
ccricJ which aflcrted, that any man had ever been under
the pole; vcrilybelteving, that if there be no land to
the northward of 80 degrees, that the fea is there fro/rn,
and always continues fo; and grounding his m>inion
Mtion this remark, that if the body of ice which he
faw were to be conveyed ten degrees more to the fouth-
ward, many centuries of )car8 would elapfe before it
would be melted.
To thiii pofitivc aflcrtion. however, may be oppofcd,
the tertiinony of many credible perfons, feme of whom
have thcinfeivcs failed beyond the 80th degree of north
latitude, and others upon evidence whofe veracity there
is no rcafonable caufe to bring in quellion.
Among the latter, the teftimony of Mr. Jofeph
Moxon, member of the Royal Society of London, mult
have confiderablc weight. In a paper which this gen-
tleman caufcd to be printed in the Philofophical Tranf-
atftions, is this remarkable relation.
" Eteing about twcntv years ago in Amfterdam, 1 went
into a public houfe to dri«k a cup of beer for my thirft ;
and fitting by the public fire, among feveral people,
there happened a fcaman to come in, who feeing a
frii'nd of his there, who he knew went the Greenland
voyage, wondered to fee him, b<;caufc it was not yet
time for the Greenland fleet to come home, and alked
him, what accident had brought him home fo foon?
His friend (who was the ftccrfman) anfwercd, that their
Ihips went not out to fifli, but only to ukc in the lad-
ing of the fleet, to bring it to an earfy market. But,
faid he, before the fleet had caught filh enough to lade
us, we, by order of the Greenland Company, failed
nrlto the north pole, and came back again. Where-
upon, fays Moxon, I entered into difcourfe with hiin,
and fecmcd toqucftion the truth of what he faidj but
he did aflure me it was true, and that the fhip was then
in Amfterdam, and many of the feamen belonging to
her ready to juftify the truth of it ; and told nx, more-
over, that they had failed two degrees beyond the pole.
I aflted him, if they found no land or illands about the
pole? Heanfwcred, no; there was a free and own fea.
Iafkedhim,if they did not meet with a great deal of
ice? He told me, no; they faw no ice about thciwlc.
j alked him, what weather they had there? He told me,
fine warm weather, fuch as was at Amfterdam in the
fummer-timc, and as hot. 1 ftiould have aflted him
more qucftions. but that he was engaged in difcourfe
withhisfriend.andlcouldnot, in modefty, interrupt
them longer. But I believe the ftcerfman fookc
truth; for hcfcemed a plain, honeft, and unaflWla-
tious perfon, and one who could have no dcfign upon
To authenticate this relation it has bce» obferved,
that under the poles, the fun in June being 23 degrees
hidi, and having little or no depreflion towards the
hwizon, always, as it were, fwimming about in the fame
elevation, might invigoralt that part of the hcmifpheie
with more heat than he docs our climate ; when he is,
in the winter, no more than i c degreci at the higheft,
and but eight hours above the horizon; in which ipacc
the earth has time to cool, and to lofe, in the night, the
influences of heat which it receives in the day.
Another report upon like evidence was made to ■
King Charles the Second, by Capuin Goulden, whof
being a Greenland whaler himlelf, fpoke with two
Hollanders in the North Seas, that had failed within
one degree of the pole, wHerc they met with no ice, but :
a hollow grown fea, like chat in the Bay of Bifcay.
A ftill more rrediblr tcftimony i«, that about thc^ear
670, application being madetotheftatrsgencral for a
charter to incorporate a company of merchants to trade
to JapnnandC'hina.byanewpafliige to the nor'h eaft;
the then Eiul India Company opiiolrd it, and that fo
ert'eOluall)^; that their Hi|^h Migliiinellcs rcfufed tognint
what the merchants rcqueftcd.
At that time it was talked of in Holland, as a matter
of no difficulty to fail to Japan by the way of Green-
land! and it was publickly aflcrted and believed, that
fevenil Dutch (hips had adually done it. The mer-
chants being re(|uiml to verify this fkl, defired that the
journals of the Greenland fouadron of 1655 might be
produced 1 in feven of whicn there was notice taken
of a fliip which that year had failed as high as the lati-
tude of 891 and three journals of that Ihip being pro-
duced, they all Agreed, as to one obfervation taken by
the mafter, Auguft i, i6jj, in 8ft dc^^rees 56 minutes
north.
But a proof inconteftible, is the teftimony of Captain
Hudfon, who failed in 1607 to the latitude of 81 dcg.
30 min. north, where he arrived on the 1 6th of July,
the weather being then pretty warm.
Add to all thek', that the IXitch who v^xre employed
in 1670, in endeavouring to lind a N. l-'.. palfage, ad-
vanced within a very few degrees of that open fea, which
is now commonly navigated by the KuHians, and which
would infallibly have brought them to the coafts of
China and Japan, had they pcrfevcrcd in the courfe
they wtre purfuing.
It does not apj^ear, however, from any authentic ac-
counts that \vc can colled, that any voy:i[;e, profelltdly
for the difcovery of a N. E. pafl"age, has been undertaken
by either public or private adventurers in England, fince
that of Captain Wood in the year 1676, till the prcfent
year: and it is more than probable, that if the Ruflian
difcoveries on the north of Afia had never taken place,
the thoughts of finding a pradlicable paflage from Eu-
rope in that diredion, would have laindonnant foe
ever.
But the vaft and enterprizing genius of Peter the
Great, in forcing his fubjedts out of that obfcurity in
which they had long been involved, has opened to the
maritime powers new fources of commerce, and fur- .
niflied freln motives for new enterprizes. From a peo-
ple unacquainted with a vcfTel bigger than a bark, and
who knew no navigation but that of their own rivers,
that wonderfiil Prince not only taught them the ufe of
(hips, but inftru(fled them in the true principles of
building and equipping them. Nay, he did more;
for after making himfelf known and admired through-
out Europe, he conceived the defign of opening a com-
munication with the rcinotefl parts of the globe, and
difcovering to the world new countries which no Euro-
pean nation had ever yet explored.
' With this defign, he planned one of the boldefl: en-
terprizes that ever entered into the heart of man ; and
though he did not furvive to fee it executed, the glory
of the atchievement is wholly his.
The country of Kamtfchatka was as much unknown
to his prcdeccflbrs, as it was to the reft of the civilired
nations of the earth ; yet he formed the defign of mak-
ing that favage country the centre of the moft gloriptn
atchicvements.
It was in the laft year of this great Monarch's lift,
that he commiAioned Captain Behring to traverfc the
wild, and then almoft deiolatc, country of Siberia, and
t9 continue his route to Kamtfchatka, wlierc he #as
to build one or more veflfcls, in order to difcover irW-
thc country towards the north, offWhich at that time
they had no diftind knowledge, was a part of America,
or not; and if it was, his inftrudions authorized him to
endeavour, by every poflibic means, to fcek and cnW-
vate the acquaintance of fome European people, and to
leam from them the ftate of the country at which he
(hould arrive. If he failed in this, he was to mi^rfuch
difcoveries ascircumftancct Ihould prefent, and cornittit^
to writing the rcfult of his obfervations fortKe ufe of Ms
imperial mafter.
To enter minutely into the particulars of Captain
Bchring's
f
GE
HJtthc^'car
ncral fur a
t« to trade
nor'h cart I
nnd that to
fed to grant
II a matter
of Grccn-
licvcd, that
The tncr-
rcd that the
might be
nice t4ken
as the iati-
being pro-
m taken by
56 minutes
of Captain
of 81 dcg.
)th of July,
reemployed
palfagc, ad-
Mi fea, V, hich
i, and which
ic coafts of
I the courfe
uthentic ac-
, profefliilly
n undertaken
ngiand, fince
II the prcfent
the Ruflian
r taken place,
ipe from Eu-
donnant for
of Peter the
obfcurity in
opened to the
rcc, and fur-
From a pco-
I a bark, and
ir own rivers,
:m the ufc of
principles of
K did more;
ired through-
tcning a com-
le globe, and
lich no Euro.
leboldeft en-
of man ; and
ed, the glory
uch unknown
the civilized
cHgn of mak-
mofl gloripns
anarch's lift,
> traverfc the
r Siberia, and
liere he #as
lifcovcr wh*-
1 at that time
t of America,
orized him to
ck and cnW-
xopie, and to
at which he
toms^cfuch
:, atidcomitiii^
the ufc of Ms
•s of Captain
Bchring's
For making DISCOVERIES twartli the N O R T H i POL E, &c
,<'9
f
Bchring'.i je of Kamtfchatka, is open to the
iflcs of Japan, and from a fubfequent account of RufTian
voyaged, publiflied in the Philofophical Tranfadtlons,
from a paper communicated by the celebrated Euler, it
appears, that they pafled along in fmall veflels, cuafting
between Nova Zcmbla and tM cdntmcnt, at divtrs
=times in the middle of fummer, w1le*i thofe fcas were
t>ptn. The firft expedition was froin the river Oby,
latitude 66 dcg. N. longitude 65 deg. E. from Londbn,
and at the approach of winter, the vclFels (hcltercd
themfelvcs by going up the Janiflta, the moUth of which
is marked m our maps in latitude 70 deg. N. and in
longitude 81 dcg. E. from whence the next funnner
they proceeded to the mouth of the Lena in latitude
72 deg. N. and in longitude 1 1 5 dcg. into which they
again retired for the winter feafon. The third ex-
})edition was from the mouth of this river, to the
artheft nsnh capeof Afla, in 72 deg. of north latitude,
and in 172 deg. ofcaft loncinide from London. Thus
the Ruffians having paffed between the continent and
Nova 2^embla, and failed as far as the eaftcrnmod north
cape, and the Engliih and I>itch having repeatedly
faiied through the (traits that divide Nova Zembia from
the continent, nothing can be a plainer demonftration
of the reality of the N. E. paflkgc, than :h- fum of the
voyages here cnumehited, when added together. The ,
En^ifh and Dutch fail to Wygatr,, or the ftrait of.
Nova Zembia; the Rufliani fail from Wygatr to the
north cape of Afia; and Bchring from the north cape
to Japan. This is an incontrovertible demonftration ;
yet it is obvious, that this o )u '-fc can never be pradicable
TO (hips employcid in trade. The Ruffians, by taking the
advantage of an mien fea and mild weather, in three
years time accompliflicd biit part of a voyage, which,
by the Cape of Good Hope, mav be made in lefs than
one. Who therefore would run the hazard of fo dtf-
pcratea'pairagc,forthefakeof reaping imaginary ad-
vantages by an intercourfe with favages, who, for aught
we know, have nothing to exchange for European com-
moditicsi but the (kins of bears, or the bones of inon-
flers. •
But though the pa(rage to the northern countries of
the eaft was known to be impradlicable to European
navigaton in this diredlion, it was worthy the great-'
nets of a maritime people, to endeavour to determine
the poflTibility of attaining the fame end by another
courfe.
The mifcarriage and death of Barcntz. and the ftip-
4
wreck nfLaptatn W tMid, had Jeh iU<- qmlhon unde-
termined whether the regions adioinina to the ^wle arc
land or water, (roz-cn or o()cn fea. The advaiifagcs
from this ilifio render it fuccefsful, was in every refpcd pro-
portioned tothe iin|)ortnnce ofthedifcovery.
The velfol* that were made choi.e of were thr pro>
pcrclt' that could bedevifwl. Homl) ketches are in the
rtrit intlan. e (Voutly built, and not being over lar^je, arc
Mi adaptcti (or navigating (can tiiai are known to
ab.niiul >*ith llioais and covered rocks: tliefe veflels,
belides Ihcir natural Hrength, were (heathed w ith plank
«f leaContd oak tlinc inches thick, to fortily them
agaiiiU the fliocks and preliiire ol the ice, that, in their
progrefs, they mu(t infallibly encounter. They were,
belidi-;, fiirnilhed with a double fet of ice jwles, an-
chors, rabies, fails and rigging, to provide againlV the
terrible ttleCts of the feverc and lempclluoiis weather,
thai Ircqiicatly happens in hif«h latitudes, even in the
mkltMeof the n\ol\ temperate feafons.
Nor was his lordtliip lefs careful to [)rovide for the
comlorrable (viblillcncc of the men, than for the prefer-
vaiion of thtir lives, by his Aife directit)ns in equip-
Eing their (hips. His lirf\ care was, to ifluc orders for
ilhng and curint; " '"'''' '«^nt quantity of beef and pork
in the beft manner poflibie, that their provilions might
be good and (ftlh » and his next, to caufc 100 buts of
porter to be brewed with the bell malt and hops, that
they might have proper drink to fortify them againft
the rigour of the climate they were about to pafs. Their
peafe, oatmeal, rice, and molaiTes, were all provided
with equal care, and when all things were in readincfs,
the beer was flowed in the holds, and the vacancies
filled up with coals, which ferved as ballaft, that firing
might not be wanting to warm and dry them when
cold, or wet with labour, or with watching. Add to
this, that a double quantity offpirits were put on board,
with a large proportion of^wine, vinegar, mulbrd, &c.
&c. and what, we believe, was never before thought of
in the fitting out of any king's (hips, a confiderable
quantity of tea and fugar for the fick, in cafe any
(hould be feized with that dreadful difordcr, which
rendered (hip proviC'ons loathfomc to Captain James's
men, who were conft ained to winter in Charitori Ifland
in i'63l. Thefe mei fell ficjc and had fore mouths,
and could neither cat Secf, pork, fifh, nor potage; the
furgeon was every mirning and evening obliged to
Sick their teeth, and . ut away the pieces of rotten
elh from their gums, y ?t they could cat nothing but
bread pounded in a mortar, and fried in oil, on which
they fubfifled for feveral months. In cafe of accidents
of this kind, and that tea (hould fail to anfwer the pur-
pofes of nourifhmcnt, a quantity of portable foup was
likewife provided. And to complete the whole, a ftock
of warm cloathiiig was laid in, confining of fix fear-
nought jackets for each man, two milled caps, two pair
df fcarhought troWfers, four pair of milled ftockings,
and an excellent pair of boots, with a dozen pair
of milled mitt*, two cotton (hirts, and two hankcr-
chieft.
Thus equipped and provided, the command ofthe
Race Hor(c was given to the Hon. Conftantine Phipps,
as Commodore, and that of the Carcafc to Captain
Skifllington Lutwych 1 the firil mounting eight fix
pounders and 14 fwivels, burthen 3 50 tons; the latter
(bur fix pounders and 14 fwivels, burthen 300 tons.
Let us now proceed to the journal ofthe voyage.
ALL
'Ml
^1
t
'I
vt
r V
3ae CoMMoboKi PHIPPS (now Load MULORAVB'i) VOYAGE
A'
or (hn
r
1 5
W*
LL thing* hiing now in rradineft, the oflken on
hoard, iinil the men paid their bounty-money
three pound* per man, accordinK *<* ^'* Mtfitty't
ruy«l proclamation, for the encouragemcm of thme
w ho (hould voluntarily enter to underuke the voyage.
On the jrd of June 1773, the Commodore node the
lit^nat to weigh t but prcvioui to their departure, the
Ctrcafc having been judscd too deep to navigate thoTe
heavy Teas through which (he waa to paii, the Capcain
obtained leave from the board of Admiralty to re-land
10 of her complement of men, and to put afliorc fix of
the eight fix-poundcn with which Ine waa equipped,
with a quantity of proviliont, pixiportianed to the
number of men that it had been tnought proper to
difcharsc.
On Friday the 4th, being oft' Sheemefi, the wind W.
by N. and a frcfli breeze, they took their departure, and
continued their voyase without any material occurrence
happening till Tucfday the 1 5th, when 'he GNnmodorc
made the (ignal to lie to. They were then oiTBnfley
Illand, and many Aihing-boati from Shetland being in
fight, the men were invited on board, and fome filh
purchafcd of them at a cheap rate.
On the 1 7th, thev took a new departure from Shet-
land, but the day folkiwinB the fog thickened lb much,
that it almod approached to total darkncfi. During
the contintuuicc of the fog, thcQimmodorc kept tiring
gum and beating dnima, to prevent the Carcafi; from
bting conapany. Ai it wu impoiTible that one couU
fee the other at a (hip's length, it waa found the more
necclTary to repeat and rctum the firing, left they
fhould run foul of each other before they coukl be ap-
prized of their danger. About five in the morning tne
milt cleared up, and about nine the Commodore bcuv
in light, made the fignal to the Carcafe to fteer N. E.
They were then in latitude 60 deg. the wcadwr
haxy I heard three guns fire at a diltance, but Taw no
(hip or other obJeeF. The whalea are here in no gnat
plenty, and few fliips appear in the open fea in pur-
fuit of them. They generally at this feafon frequent the
bays and creeks near the fhore, and only bicak away
when they are purfued or wounded.
On Thurfday the 34th, the Coinnu>dore changed hi*
courfe to E. N. E. and on the a ah, they were in lati-
tude 74deK- 7 "^'n- N. and in 8 deg.ja min. E. longi-
tude from London. Served out to the (hip's company
plenty of muftard, pepper, vinegar, &c. The weather
extremely cold and variable. At eight in the evening
thick fogi at two in the morning fretn breezes ; at eight
clear weather ; at eleven fqually , and at noon calm, with
fleet and fnow.
On Saturday the 36th, at midnight, they had an ob.
fervation, ana found themfelves in latitude 74 deg. 17
min. N. frcih gales, fometimes rain, fleet, and mowi
at feven in the morning clear weather and an open
fea.
Sunday 37, light airs from the fouthward, and cloudr
weather 1 much warmer than the preceding day. It
is renurkable, that the viciflitudes of heat and cold are
more frequent here than in the more foutherly latitudes.
It often changes from temperate to extreme cold; and
that fuddenly.
It fliould fcem likewifc. that the ice frequently
changes its place in thi* latitude 1 or that it ia more
folid near land than in the open fea t for, on the 33rd
of June, 1676, Capuin Wood, being more to the caft.
w.ird. fell in with ice right a-head, not more than a
league diftant. He fteercd akmg it, thinkJiw it had
openings, but found them to be bavs. He loundect
and found ground at 1 j8 fathom, foft green oar. In
fome places he found pieces of ice driving oflT a milp
from, the main body in ftran^ flupes. refembling
ftiips, txecs, buildings, beafts, fafhes, and even nwn*
The main body of ice being low and craggy, he could
fee hills of a blue colour at a diftance, and valleys that
were white as fnow. In (bme places he obferved diift
wood among the ice. Some of the ice he melted,
and found it frefli and good. This navigator never
could advance farther to the north ( but in (eekir^ to
penetrate the ice was (hip-wrecked, as has been already
related in the Introduction. He therefore judged tKe
ice impenetrable, and that land or ice furrounded the
pole. Qur navigators found al(b much wood in this
latitude floating about the (hips, and (aw great flocks
of birds.
Monday 38, the weather altered ; the wind weft.
Frcfli breezes, with rain and fleet. Latter part thick
Tucfday 39, being in latitude 78 deg. N, and in
loi^itude 6 drg. 39 min. E. from London, icame in
fight of land, when the fliipsi brought to, and the Cap-
tauu held aconfultation concerning their future courfe.
"the appearance of the land lav from E. S. E. to N. E.
and this day they fpoke with the Marquis of Rocking,
ham, Greenlandman. who by their reckoning, were
then
IB
having
I a happy
:icv«ii
IwidCar.
I on boani
[ing cold I
tuuc, in a
the call-
tland to
nor had
relating,
lor brealu
kit ivf ir
|rain froze
ftanding
lihecouid
(iiiig to
weather
iit law no
no great
in pur-
jucnt the
eak away
For making DISCOVERIES towardi the NORTH P () I, E, «cc. i a
uidcloudr
dajr. It
id cold are
X latitudei.
icoldj and
then in latitude 70 df^. 40 mm. N. thatRh by that of
the Commodore, ineir latitude »»i<>nl^ 7II dej;. 3 min,
Thi« dirtcrence, It ii probable, anlcii Irnm not making
the proper allowance lor rrlVaiftion in thii hif(h lati-
Hide. The Greenlandmen prerented each ofihc Coin-
m^mieri with a deer anJ a half, which thev found
well-flavoured venifon, though not over fat. tie like-
wife informed, that he had jull come fromth: ce, and
that the day Ixforc, three whaler* had been crulhcd to
pirrt* by iti doling u|ion them I'uddcnly.
Wedncfday ^o,, purfued ihcir courfe. Cloudy
weather, l-iall paft four in the morninc founded 1 1 2
fiithomt, foft blue mud. At thin time lilack I'oint, To
called from iu d.irk appearaiKc, born N. K. by K. three
nuarteri E. at the diltanec of fcvcn or einht leaf(uci.
At half part fevcn in the morning, f:uv two fail in the
N. W. quarter. At half part twelve tacked and (Inod
to the calh Sounded, and found ground at 11 5
fathom.
Thurfday July I, lijjht breeze* and clear weather at
midnight: the fun aa bright as at noonday. Black
Point E. one half S. dillant fcven league*. At three
in the morning made Charle*'* Ifland, and at nine faw
a fail to the weftward whaU ing 1 they were then in
latitude 78 dcg. 18 min. N. byobfcrvation. Sounded,
and foiiml (he fame depth a* before.
Friday 3, light air* and moderate weather. Lay to
and took the altitude of a mountain, which they named
Mount Pamaflu* 1 found it from the level of the fea
to be 3960 feet high, covered with fnow, and at a
diftancc refenibling un ancient building, witn fome-
thing like a turret a-top. The foot of tni* mountain,
with the hillt adjoining, have fometimes a very fiery
appearance, and the ice and fnow on their fldei re-
re:iil>ling tree* and (hrubs, gliftcn with a brilliancy that
exceed the fplendor of the brighted gem*. When
thi* h,ippcn*, a violent (lorm generally fuccecd*. Here
they fliot foii.e fea IumI, but of an oily tafte.
Saturday 3, proved a perfedl calm. They fpoke
with a H(»l!ander, who foretold, that a degree or two
fiirther north was the utmoll extent of their urogrcft
this feafon. Having doubled Cape Cold, they an-
'choied in 15 fathom water, about three mile* from the
land, and fent the boats alhorc for water, which they
found in abundance, pouring down in little ftreams
from the rocks. At five in the afternoon, by the mean
of four azimuth*, the variation was found to be 1 8 dcg.
36 min. W. Sounded, and found only 6( fathoms,
loft brown mud. Mount Parnaflus E. N. E. three or
four leagues. Among other reafons which Captain
Wood gave for williing to be employed on the dif-
covery of the N. E. palTage, one wa*, that he might
have an opportunity of approaching the pole, in onJer
to fettle an hypothefis, which he had long framed,
whereby the inclination of the magnetical neralc under
the horizon, in all latitudes and m all longitude*, with
the variation of the compaft, might be eiia apixar. At three In
the alirrnonn the ConuiMMlorc haulc«l up from a large
bl.
Thurfday 8, the weather Rill remaining cloudy, and
the wind variable, both fliius ftill were entangled in
the ice I and the Carcafc being driven to leeward,
hoidcd out her long-boat to tow up with the Com-
modore. But the icc clofing very fatt, it was impolTi-
ble for the boat* to live. Order* were then given to
tack ind ftand to the fouthward 1 but the Ihip* not
bein^ ible to make head r.^ inlV the accumulation of
ice r.i.it continually garherco round them, were under
a nccunt/ of -pplyii.,_ to their ice anchor* and pole*,
in order to wap thioi' ,,h it. At half pall right in the
evening, the ii\; beg. .ning to open, they again hoilled
out th. f boats, ?-\ with difbculty . ved the fliips
round a cape of i< c projeiilin ,om ti\.' main body,
and at laft got tie.ir. At ten ■ l)oats were hoilled on
board. In cxtricatiiigrh. 'eves from this daiigerout
fituation, the Race l-iorfe id her beft bower-anchor
fnapt in the fba • . c ufc to the Hock, »■ the Carcafc
loft her ftarbo.1 .'. t>><;;'pkin and head-ra;
It frequent!' hap^. ns, that (hipt befet amoni^ the
ice in the manner above related, pcrifli by being dai' rd
to piecet againft the folid fields of icc, or crulhcd b/ ., .
broken piecet crowding upon one another, and rifing
fo fall about the fhip, as to exceed the height of her
fides, and then there is no efcaping. They were told
by fomc cxperirnced feamen, that the ice rifes out of
the fea as higi .bmetimcs as mountains 1 and that
fevcrat of thele mountains, by flriking together and
coalefcing, form thcfc iflands of icc that arc frequently
feen in the lower latitudes, driving up and down the
fea u the wind and tides diredl them.
Thcgreateft danger to be apprehended, it, however,
from the loofe icei for the whalert often moor their
fhipt to the folid fields of ice, that at certain feafona
r- ; -n to reft upon the earth, and appear fixed to it, and
: re find the beft fifbing. In fuch fituationt it often
iiappcnt, that little or no loofe icc it to be fecn ; yet
prelcntly upon a change of wind, or the blowing of a
ftorm, it fliall pour in upon them (o fuddenly, that they
fometimet perift) in it. It is not pofTiblc ta account for
the aftoniftiing quantity that will gather in this manner
in left than an hour's ume.
Though it feeri'.s to be agreed, that many of the
largcft fields of icc are frozen to the depth of the fea
in which they are found, and that they are bedded on
the folid earth, vet it it equally certain, that they are
often rent afunder by the raging billowt ; and that in
breaking, they produce the moft terrifying noife in
nature \ luy, it is afferted, that the dalhing ot the pieces
of loofe ice againft each other, on any cxtraordinaiy
agitation of tne waves, it attended with a roaring 16
loud, that a man who it near it can hardly hear the
found of hi* own voice.
Friday the 9th, they hauled up to the weftward, and
loft light one of the other i but about nine next morn-
ing they came in fight, and joined
clear, and the fun fliincs full upon thefe mountains,
the profped is inqonceivably brilliant. They fome-
times put on tht bright glow of the evening rays of
the fetting fun, when reflcdcd upon glafs, at his going
down; fometimes they appearof a bright blue, like fap-
phire, and fometimes like the variable colours of a
prifm, exceeding in luftrc the richert gems in the world,
difpofed in Ihapes wonderful to behold, all glittering
with a luftre that dazzles the eye, and (ills the air with
aflonifliing brightnefs.
Smearingburgh harbour, where they landed, was firll
difcoveredby the Dutch. Here they ereded Ihedsand
conveniences for boiling the oil from the fat of the
whales, inftead of barrelling it up to be boiled at home.
Here alfo, allured by the hope of gain, they built a vil-
lage, and endeavoured to fix a colony: but the firft
fettlers all pcriflied in the enfuing winter. The re-
mains of the village may be traced to this day ; and
their ftoves, kettles, kardels, troughs, ovens, and other
implements, remained in the fliape of folid ice long
after the utcnfils themfelves were decayed. Our
voyagers were told, that the Ruffians have lately at-
tempted the fame thing, and that loout of 1 5 periflied
laft winter in this fecond attempt.
Where every objed is new. it is not eafy fora ftranger
to fix which firft to admire. The rocks are flriking
objedls: before a florm they exhibit a fiery appearance,
and the fun looks pale upon them, the fnow giving the
air a bright rcfledion. Their fummits are a'moft
always involved in clouds, fothat it is but juft poflibic
to fee the tops of them. Some of thefe rocks are but
one ftone from bottom to top, appearing like an old
decayed ruin. Others conlift of huge maffes, veined
differently, like marble, with red, white, and yellow,
and probably, were they to be fawed and poliflicd.
would equal, if not excel, the fineft Egyptian marble
we now fo much admire. Perhaps the diflancc and
danger of carrying large blocks of ftones, may be the
realon that ho trials have been made to manufadlure
them. On the foutherly and wefterly fides of thefe
rocks grow all the planu, herbs, and moffes peculiar
to this country ; on the northerly and eaftcrly fides
the wind ftrikes fo cold when it blows from thefe
quarters, that it pcriflies every kind of vegetable.
"Thefe plants grow to perfedion in a very ftiort time.
Till the middle of May the whole country is locked up
in ice; about the beginning of July the plants arc in
flower, and about the latter end of the fame month, or
bcginninsof Auguft, they have perfeded their feed.
The earth owes its fertility, in a great mcafuie, to
the dung of birds, who build and breed their young
here in the fummcr, and in the winter repair to more
favourable climates.
Ihe plants that are moft common in Spitftx:rgen arc
fcurvy-graft and crows-toot; there are befides fmall
houfe-leak, and a plant with aloe-leaves; an herb like
ftone-crop ; fome fmall fnake-weed ; moufe-car ; wotod-
ftrawbcry; periwinkle; and a herb peculiar to the
country which they call the rock>plant. The leaves
of this plant are in ihape like a man's tongue, above fix
(eit long, of a dull yellow colour. The ifalk is round
and fmooth, and of the fame colour with the leaf; it
rifes tapering, and fmells like mufcles. It is an aquatic,
and riles iniieight in proportion to the depth of water
in which it is found. There arc other plants and herbs,
but thefe arc the chief. Of flowers, the white poppy
feems the principal.
The rocks and precipices are full of fiffures and
clefts, which afford convenient harbour for birds to lay
their eggs, and breed their young in fafety, MoA of
thefe birds are water-fowl, and feck their food in the
fca. Some, indeed, are birds of prey ; and purfue and
kill others for their own fufteoancc, but thefe arc rare.
The wat«r-fowl eat ftrong and filhy, and their fat i«
not to be endured. They ar:- fo numerous about the
rocks, as fometimes to darken the air when they rife
in flocks; and they fcreaia fo horribly, that the rocki
ring with their notfe.
I There
For making DISCOVERIES towards the NORTH POLE, &c. 323
I ■■ - '-- ■--- - ,
Thcfc
There are a few fmall bird* like our fnipcs, and a
kind of fnow-bird, but different from that found about
Hudfon's bay. 'The ecntlenicu (hot fomc of the water-
fowl, but they were iTrong and ill-iafted.
The ice-bird is a very beautiful little bird, but very
rare. He is in fize and (hapc like a turtle-dove, but
his plumaRC, when the fun Ihines upon hiin, is of a
bright yellow, like the eoldcn rinc in the peacocks
tail, and almoft daxiles the eye to look upon it.
The other inhabitants of this forlorn country arc
white bears, deer, and fo::cs. How thcfc creatures
can fubfil^ in the winter, when the whole earth is co-
vercfl with fnow, and the fea locked up in ice, is
hardly to be conceived. It has been faid, indeed, that
when the ocean is all frozen over, and no fuftcnancc
fo be procured in this country, they travel foutherly to
the warmer climates, where food proper for them
abounds in the immenfc forefts of the northern con-
tinent. But whoever confiders the vaft diftancc be-
tween Spittbergen and the neareft parts of the northern
continent, will be as much at a lois to account for the
fubfiftencc of thcfc creatures in their journoy, as in the
defolate region where they undoubtedly remain. The
bear is by ftr the bell accommodated to the climate of
which he is an inhabitant. He is equally at home on
land and water, and hunts diligently for his prey in
both. In fuinmer he finds plenty of food from the re-
fufcof the whales, fea-horfcs and feals, which is thrown
into the fea by the whalers, and cover the (horcs during
the time of whaUng ; and thev have befidcs a wonder- _
ful fagacity in fmelling out the carcafes of the dead,'
let them be ever fo deeply buried in the earth, or co-
vered with (tones. The dead therefore that annually
are buried here may contribute, in fomc degree, to the
fubfillcncc of a few' of thcfc creatures in winter ; but the
queftion will ftill recur, how the race of them fubfifted
before the whale-fifhery had exiftencc, and before men
found the way to this inhofpitable (hore. Dif^uifitions
of this kind, as they arc beyond the reach ot human
comprchenlion, fervc only to raife our admiration of
that omnipotent Being to whom nothing is impolTiblc.
Thcfc creatures, -s they differ in nothing but their
colour and (ize from tl. '
m ,■
I
en the tcntlcrcil parts ot' the wiaic s boviy, bciwet.ii his
fins, on his Ihcath. and on his lips, and cats pieces out
of his Helh, as if eaten by vultures.
They found no fpiings of frcrti water in Spitlbcrgen ;
but in the valleys, between the mountains, are niuny
little rilU cau;td by the rain and melting of the fnow in
fummcr ; and from thefc rills the ihips arc fupplied.
Some arc of opinion, that this water is unwholclbme,
but they are more nice than wife. The whaling peo-
ple have drank of it for ages, and have found no ill
efteifls from the ufe of it. Ice taken up in the middle
of thcfe feas and thawed, yields alfo good frefli water.
On boarxl the Race Horfe, Dr. Irvtnc, the gentleman
who received the premium by a grant of parliament,
for his difcovcry of an eafy procefs for making falt-
water frelh at fea, tried many experiments at Spitf>
bcrgcn, and in the courfe of the voyage: the refult of
which will appear at a proper time. That gentleman
had formed a projcd tor preferving flelh-meat frelh
and fwcct in long voyages, but it did not anfwcr in
this.
In calm weather they remarked, that the fea about
the iflands appeared uncommonly ftill and fmooth;
that it was not fuddcnly moved at the firft approach of
blowing weather ; but that when the ftorm continued,
the waves fwelled gradually, and rofe to an incredible
height. Thefc fwelling waves fucccflively follow one
another, and roll along before the wind, foaming and
raging in a frightful manner, yet they are thought lefs
dangerous than thofe that break ibort, and are lefs
mountainous^
1 hey obfcrved likcwifc, that the ice that reded on
the ground was not ftationary, but that it changed
place i and they learnt alio, that in fome feafons there
was no ice, where this fcafon they were in danger of
being embayed. There docs not, however, from thence
appear the lead reafon to conclude, that any pradti-
Cible paifagc tv the Indian ocean can ever be found m
this direction j for were it certain that the feas were
always open under the pole, yet great bulwarks of ice
evidently lurround it funictimcs at a lefs, and fome-
tinies at a greater dillance. Moreover, were it pof-
fible that chance (hould diteti fome fortunate adven-
turer to an opening at one time, it would be more than
a million to one, if the fame opening were paflable to
the next who fliould attempt it.
There are many harbours about Spitlbergen, befides
that of Smcaringburg, where fliips employed in the
whale fifliery take flicker in llormy weather; and there
are fonic ilVands, fuch as Charles's Ifland, the Gifted
Rock, ReJ-Hili, Hacluit's Headland, &c. that fcrve
as land-marks, by which feamen dircd their courfe.
Tlicfc illands arc full of the nefts ot birds; but their
eggs are as naufcous as the flelh of the fowls that lay
them. The failors fomctimes eat them, but they are
tiliiiy food. Even the geefe and ducks on the neigh-
bouring illands cat fifliy and ftrong.
The air about Spitlbergen is never free from ificlcs.
If you look through the lun-bcams tranfverfel; as you
fit in the ihade, or where you fee the rays confined in
a body, inftead of dark motes, as are leen here, you
fee myriads of fliining particles that fparkle like dia-
monds ; and when the fun ihincs hot, at it fomctimes
docs, fo as to melt the tar in the feams of (hips when
they lie ihcltered from the wind, thefe (hining atoma
fecm to melt away, and dcfccnd like dew.
It is feldom that the air continues clear for many
days together in this climate ; when that happens, the
whalers are generally fuccefsful. There is no differ-
ence between night and day in the appearance of the
atmofphere about Spitlbergen, one bemg as light as
the other, only when the fun is to the northward, you
may look at him with the naked eye, as at the moon,
without duKKling. The fogs here come on fo fuddenly,
that from bright fun-lhine, you are prefcntly involved
in fuch obfcurity, that you can hardly fee from one
end of the fliip to the other.
While our lournalid was bufy in makiiw hii obfcr-
vations, all belonging to the fliipt were diKrcntly co-
cj;agcd in one employment or other; fome in taking in
water, fome in filliing, fome in huntinj^, fome in
handing the fails, and fpreading thcni out to dry,
fome ill fcnibbing the fliip, and fome in viewing the
country. The Commanders and oHicers, with Mr.
Lyon, Mr. Robinfon, &c. buficd themfclves in making
obfervntions, being furnifhcd with an apparatus, that
is fnid to have cod at lead 1 5CX} pounds. From iuch a
fet of indruments, in the hands of the abled obferven,
the nation can boad, fome very confiderable difcoverics
in the phenomena of the polar regions may be cxpcdU
ed. They landed their indruments in a fmall illand.
in Vogle Sound, and had fever?! opportunities during
their day of ufing them to advantage. Having eredtea
two tents, the Captains from the filhcry frccjuently
viflted the obfervers, and cxprclFed their adnuration
not only at the pcrfc(^li6n of the indruments, but
likewife at die dexterity w ith which they were accom-
modated.
The ice began to fet in a-pacc, yet the weather was
hot. The thermometer from 56 in the cabin rofe to
90 in the open air. It was dill 10 drg. higher on the
top of a mountain to which it was carried. The ifland
on which the experiments were made, they called
Marble Ifland, from the rock by which it is formed.
Having watered, and finifhed their obfervations, the
(hips prepared to depart.
Monday July the 19th. the Commodore made the
lignal to weigh; at two in the ademoon the (hips were
under lail, and as foon as they had made their offing,
dood to the eadward. At three they tacked and deer-
ed northward; and before four were again entangled
among the loofc ice, through which they failed, di-
recting their courfe along the main body, whick lay from
N.W.toS. S. E.
Tucfday the 20th, they continued their courfe along
the ice, but could difcover no opening, though they
fcarchcd every creek, and left no bay or turning un-
examined. This day they obfcrved what the failors
call a mock-fun, a phirnomenon well enough known in
this climate. Hacluit's Headland bore S. W. one half
S. 46 leagues ; the weather cloudy, with rain ; cxcefTive
cold. Thermometer 37 dcg. 46 min.
Wcdnefday the 2 id, the feverity of the weather in-
creadng, an additional quantity of brandy was fcrved
out to the people, and every comfortable refrefhment
adbrded them, that they themfclves could wifh or re-
quire. The courfe of the ice lay this day N. E.
Thurfday 22, nothing remarkable.
Fridaythe 23rd, they faw land from E. by S. to S.
£. by S. At tour in the morning, Hacluit's HeiKlland
bore S. E. 10 leagues; the wind variable, and the
weather cold, with fleet and fnow. Thermometer 40
deg.
Sunday 3S> . _
weather, and were engaged among fome pieces of ice.
jnday 3(, they had gentle breezes, with cloudy
feparated from the main body, which kept them con-
tinually tacking and lufllii^. At length they entered
among mountains and illands of ice, which came
upon them fo fad, that it was with the utmod diff.c;.!-
ty they could proceed ; the Carcafe having feveral times
(truck againd them with fuch violence, at to raife her
head four feet out of the water. They now imagined,
from the folidity and extent of thefe iflands, that the
late drong gales had caufed a fcpanition from the
main body, the Commodore therefore changed his
courfe with a drong gale to the eadward ; in the morn-
ing the weather became moderate.
Monday 26, at fcven in the morning, they came in
fight of Red Hill, a fmall nnount which commands an
open idain, known by the name of Decrs Field, by rea-
fon of its futile appearance, it being the only fixx on
which they dtw no drifts of fnow. To the eadward lies
Muffin's Ifland. Here they founded, and found 4$
fiithoms water; rocky ground. Captain Lutwych fenc
out tha longboat, with orders to foundalongtn«lhor«.
and to exuninc the foil. This ifland Bi «Mut « mile
long, very low, and looks at a difhnce UJce a black
fpeck. I'hough the Ibil is modly fandand Igolie dones.
in taking in
n;,', fofne in
out to dry,
viewing the
, with JVlr.
es in making
paratus, that
From luch a
:ft obfervcri,
Ic difcovcries
y be cxpciU
fniall illand.
initics during
aving ercdcd
ry frci^uentl/
admiration
uments, buc
were accom-
weathcr waa
:abin rofc to.
higher on the
The ifland
they called
it is formed,
rvations, the
)re made the
hc(hi]>s were
; their offing,
ed and flcer-
lin entangled
ry failed, di-
hick lay from
courfe along
though ihcy
turning un-
it the lailors
igh known ia
I. W, one half
iiin s exceflive
e weather in-
ly was fervcd
: refreflimcnt
i wifli or re-
N.E.
. by S. to S.
t's Heidland
blc, and the
rmometcr 40
with cloudy
liecei of ice,
)t them con-
they entered
irhich came
10ft difr.ci.l-
feveral times
I to raife her
w imagined,
ids, that the
n from the
;hanged his
Ji the mom-
hcycamein
tnmuidt an
ield, by rca-
Niiy fpot on
iftward lies
1 found 4j
utwych fenc
igthvflwre.
WMt* aiile
Jce a black
loofe flonei,
and
For making DISCOVERIES towards the NORTH I'OLE, occ. 325
tnd hardly fo much as a green weed upon it, yet it is
remarkable for the number of birds that rcfort to it in
fummer to lay their eggs, and breed their young; and
thefe not of one kind only, but of many different forts,
as geefe, ducks, burgomafters, ice-birds, malamucks,
kirmews, rotgers, and almoft every other fpccics of
biids peculiar to the climate : infomuch, that the eggs
wete m numerous, and lay (o thick upon the ground,
that the men who landed found it difficult to walk
without filling their ihoes.
While the crew of the boat, 10 in .number, with their
Valiant officer at their head, were examining the ifland,
after having founded the fliores, they obferved two
white bears making towards them, one upon the ice,
the other in the water. Major Buz. for that was their
officer's travelling title, like Falflaif, was always the
botdeft man in company over a cup of fack, and mind-
ed killing a bear no more than killing a gnat : brt
feeing the hears approach very faft, efpecially thit
which came in the water, he ordered his men to fir>.
while yet the enemy was at a dtftance, as he did not
think it prudent to hazard the lives of his little com-
pany in clofe iight. All of them pointed their muf-
Kets, and fome of the party obeyed orders ; but the
greater part judging it fafer to depend upon a rcferved
Are, when they had feemingly difcharged their pieces,
pretended to retreat. The Major, a full fathom in the
Dclly, endeavoured to waddle afler his companions ;
but being foon out of breath, and feeing the bear that
came in the water had Jud renched the (hore, thought
«f nothing now but falling the firfl facrifice. His hair
alieady flood an end ; and looking behind him, he faw
the bear at no great diftance, with his nofe in the air
fnuffing the fcent. He had all the reafon in the world
to believe it was him that he fcented,and he had fcarce
breath enough left to call to his men to halt. In this
critical fituation he unfortunately dropt his gun, and
in ftooping to recover it Humbled againft a gw>fe-nc(l,
fell fqualh upon his belly into it, and had very nigh
fmothered the dam upo^ her eggs. The old faying is,
misfortunes feldom come alone. Before he could well
rife, the enraged sinder came flying to the alTiftanceof
his half-fmotnerra confort, and making a dart at the
eye of the aflailant, very narrowly milled his mark, but
difchaified his fiiry plump upon his nofe. Hie danger
now being preffing, ana the battle fcrious, the bear
near, and the gander ready for a fecond attack, the
men, who had not fled far, thought it high time to re
turn to the relief of their leader. Overjoyed to fee
them about him, but frighted at the bear juO behind
him, he had forgot the gander that was over his head,
againft which one of the men having levelled his piece,
lired and he fell dead at the Major's feet. Animated
now by the death of ont enen^, he recovered his gun,
and^aced about to aflill in the attack of the fecond.
By this time the bear was fcarce ic yards from him,
and beginning to growl, the Major jufl in the inflant
was feized with a loofcnefs, dropt his accoutrements,
and fell back, that he might not be in the way of his
party to impede the engagement. In the hurry he was
in. for in a man of fuch valour, we mud not fay the
fright, he entangled his buttons, and not being able to
hold any longer, he filled his breeches. The crew in
an inflant hw brought down the bear, and now it was
time for their leader to do fomcthing great. Having
Recovered his arms, and feeing the poor bnft groveling
on the ground, and growling out his laft, like a ram in
a pinfold, making a fliort race backwards in order to
redouble his force, he came with nine long llrides for-
wards, and with the flrength and flercenefsof an en-
rased bull, thnift his lance full four feet deep in the
dying bear's belly. And now, fays the Major, cocking
lus hat, have not I done forthe bear bravely fThe failors,
who $xt iilways in a ^od humour upon fuch occa-
.fioiisi but C^puin. faid they, you have but half done
vour work, you have another bear to kill vet. The
Major, whore fituation began to be troublclomf, con.
tent with the honour he had already acquired, my lads,*
Aid he, as I hiVc been the death of one bear, furc fix;
No. 3^.
of you in;iy kill tiie pthcr; h ordering four of them to
row him on board, he left the remaining fix to kill the
other hear.
On this ifland two bears wei^ killed, and a fea-horfe;
The fea-horfe made a defperate defence, being attacked
in the warer; and had there been only one boat en-
gaged in the combat, hfc certainly would have come
oft vidtorious ; but the crew of the Race Horfc having
Icamt that there were bears and fea horfes on this little -
fpot, were willing to fiiare in the fport of hunting them,
as well as in the plcafure of ufling their flefh. They
accordingly landed in their boats, and came in good
time to allifl in purfuing the conqucll. h happened,
however, tiiat their ammunition being ahnoll fpcnt,
one great bear came up to revenge the death of his
fellows, and advanced fo furimidy, growling and bark-
ing, that he put the whole company to flight, and fome
ofthcm, it IS fiid, had no great reafon to laugh at the
Major.
On founding the fliores they remarked, that when
the north iflands bear N. 45 E. feven or eight leagues,
and Red Hill E. by S. five mile.s, there is generally
from 25 to 30 fathom hard ground ; but that clofer oit
fliore, when Red Hill bears E. one-fourth S, about one
mile, it increafcs to 1 1 5 fathom, with foft black mud.
The current about one mile an hour to the N. E.
Tuefday 27, the air being perfectly fercnc, and the
weather moderate, the filhes feemed to enjoy the tem-
perature, and to exprcfs it by their fporting. The
whales were feeii fpouting their fountains towards the
Ikies, and the Hn-Hfli following their example. They
likewifc this duy faw dolphins; the whole profpedl iii
ftiort was more plcaling and pidurefque than they had
yet beheld in this rcniotc region. The ivery ice in
which they were befct looked beautiful, and put forth
athoufand glittering form.^, and the tops of the moun-
tains, which they could fee like fparkling gems at a
vaft diftancc, had the appearance of fo many filver
flars illuminating a new firmament. But this flattering
profpcftdid not continue long. By an accurate ob^
fervation, they were now in longitude 80 deg. 47 min.
N. and in longitude 21 deg. 10 min. E.from London;
and in fight of feven iflands to the north, to which they
dircifled their courfe.
Wednefday 28, they had freflieaflerly breezes, whichi
from moderate weather the day before, changed trt
piercing cold. At midnight the weft end oT Wey-i
gate Straits bore S. by E. (0 that they were now in the
very fpot where Barentz had fiippofed an opening
would be found into the polar fea. Yet fo far from
it, they could difcover nothing from the mad head,
but a continued continent of folid ice, except the ifland*
already mentioned. On this ice, however, there were
many bears, fome of which came fo near the (hips as to
be mot dead with fmall arms. Thefe bears are very
good eating, and where no better is to be purchafcd,
the whalers account them as good as beef. They arc
many of them larger than the largefloxen, and weigh
heavier. In many parts of their body they are mulkot
proof, and unlefs they are hit on the open chcft, or
on the flank, a blow with a mufliet ball will h:iidly
make them turn their backs. Some of the bears killed
in thefe encounters weighed from 7 to 800 weight t
and it was thought, that the bear that routed the
failors on Muffin'slfland, could not weigh lefsthan 1000
weight. He was, indeed, a vcr}' monllerl
'Thurfday 29, failing among innumerable iflands of
ice, they found the main body too folid for the fliips to
make the leafl impreflion upon it, and finding no
opening, the Commodore refolved to fend a party un-
der the command of the firfl lieutenant to examine the
land, which at a diftance appeared like a plain, divetrt-
fied with hills and mountains, and exhioited in their
fituation a tolerable landfcape.
On trying the water, it was lefs flilt than any Tea
water they had ever tafled ; and they found likewifo,
that the ice was no other than a body of congealed frefli
water, which they imagined had been froKn in the iiw
ioncy ofthecar|h»
4 N Tuflfd«r
.1'. 'I
M
3t6 CoMMODORK PH IP PS (now Lord MULORAVE'i) VOYAGE
]
. Tuefda^ 30, the weather being clear, they ran clofe
to the main body of the ice, and the fun continuing to
ihine, made them almoft forgct'the climate they were
fiiiUng in, but it was not long before they had reafon
for fevcrc recollcdlion. In coafting along, they ob-
ferved many openingi, and were in hopes, from their
dillant appearance, that a paiTage might be made be-
tween them : but upon trial it was found, as the Dutch
fiflierman had foretold, that thcfe appearances were
deceitful. At one in the morning fine clear fun-diine,
they founded in 16 fathom water, and found fmall
ftonei at bottom. They were then about four miles
from the N. E. part of the northcmmod land ; the
eaftemmoft land in fight, didant above five or fix
leagues.
Sitiirdaj^ 71, at midnight, the cadernmoft land in
fight lay E. N. E. one half E. which they could not
make out to be an iOand. They rather Judtjed it to
be a continent, but found it inipoflible to determine
with certainty, as it lay beyond their reach. At nine
in the morning the Carcafc hoificd out her cutter, and
filled her empty water-calks with water from the ice.
On this ice lie great quantities of fnow, and as foon as
a pit is dug, it fills with fine foft clear water, not in-
ferior to that of many land fprings. At noon they
founded in 95 fathoms, the ground foft mud. This
day a bear came over the ice to vifit them, the firft they
had feen fince ihcy left Muffin's Ifland. They faluted
him with a volley of fmall arms, and he returned
the compliment, 'cy turning his back uj»n th
aniiufHifly agreed, that their deliverance was hopclefsi
and thattheymuft either provide to winter upon tnead-
jicent idands, or attempt to launch their boats into the
open fca, which was already at a confiderable diftan<;ei
for the loofe ice had poured into titc bay in whiiii they
were at anchor with fo much rapidity, and in fuch
aflonilhing quantities, that the open lea was already
far out of light. Before anv thing farther was under-
taken, the men were ordered to their quarters, that they
might rcfrefli thcmfelvcs with fleeu.
While their commanders prclcrVe their fortitude^
the failors never lofe their courage. They roifc in the
morning with as much alacrity and unconcern, af If
they had been failing with a fine breeze in the, BHtifla
Channel.
Auguft 2j it was now thought advifcable to nujca
one defperate attempt to extricate the (liipa, by c^ttiag
a channel to the wellward into the open fca.' *hic
fco iping out the dock with fo much expedition, by
a party only of one (hip, ralfed high expedUtions of
what might be performed by the unitea l^boiita of
both the crews. No body of men evo: undertook A
work of fuch diflkulty with fo much cheaiiulnefi' $ni
confidence of fuccefs, as the failors dbferved on thip
occalion. Their ice-fa ws, axes, (ledges, poles« and tht
whole group of fea-tools, were in an inftant all employ-
ed in facilitating the work; but after cutting tl^rougl^
blocks of folid ice from 8 to 1 5 feet deep, and iromii^
to others of many fathoms, that exceeck-d the powers
of man to feparate, that was laid afide as a hopclcl*
nrojeei ; and another more promifing, though not Icf*
i.>ix)rious, adopted in its room.
On the 3rd of Auguft, after the men had ag>iD,i«-
frcllied themfclves with fleep, it was refolved ttnH u^
the boats belonging to both the (hips with fuch cover-
ings as were moft eafy to be accommodated, and of
lighted conveyance ! and by Ikating them over the ice,
endeavour to launch them in the open fea. Could
this be ctTedled, they hoped, that by failing and rowing
to the northcmmoft harbour of Spitdxi]gen, they might
arrive at that ifiand, before the departure oftheuft
fliips belonging to the fiflicry for Europe. '
While the boats were getting rcadv for this ex-
pedition, a fccond party wfcre difpatched to the iti^ni,
with ordera to take the diftance as exad as it was pqf-
fible to the neareft open fea. As alt the people be-
longing to the fbip were nor to be engaged in Ihefe
ferviccs, thoffi who were unemployed diverted tnitin.
felves in huntii^ and killing the bears, that'botf, at-
traded perhaps by the favory fmell Ojf the pi^in^ni
dreflcd on board the fliips, came every day oyer thf ^f
to repeat their yifits. Several of thcfe wci« i^ftd c^Ol-
fionally, and this day they fought a fea.hbiif(i^ ih ^i/ih
engage/nent the fecond heutenartt of thcparcitfe^miUo
lizcd his courage in. a moft drfpcratr r6ieb^m^,yi
which, however, he (iicceeded, tl)ough hU lU^ 9SMp'i|i
immitient daAMr. "•■.'"
-Oil
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3«8
CoMMonoRK PHIPPS (now Lord M U L O R A V Eg) VOYAGE
'*,?;
ThurfJay K, at fix in the morning all handi were
ordered to turn nut, and a detachment of fifty men
from each fliip, headed by their refpcdivc officers,
were appointca to begin the hani talk of hauling the
launcc* along the ice. The bravcll and gallantetl ac-
tions performed in war, do not fo t^rikingly mark the
true charaifier of a fea commander, as the readincfs
and alacrity with which hiaordtrs are obeyed in timbs
of imminent danger. Every one now ftrove who
(hould have the honour to be lifted in the band of
haulers, of whom the Commodore took the direction,
leaving Capt. Lutwych to take care of both the (hips,
that if any favourable turn (Iiould happen in the difpo-
fltion of the ice, he might make ufc of the rcmainmg
part of both the crews to improve it. Upon a general
ronfultation of oflicers, previous to this undertaking, it
had been agreed, and an order ilTucd accordingly, that
DO perfon on board, of whatever rank, (houlJ encum-
ber himfelf with more cloaths than what he wore up«n
his back. Upon this occailon, therefore, the oHiccrs
dreflcd themfelves in flannels, and the common men
put on the cloaths which the officers had thrown off.
It was inconceivably laughable to fee thcfe motley band*
yoked in their new harnefs ; and, to fay the truth, there
was not one folemn face among the two companies.
That headed by the Commodore drew ftoutly for the
honour of their leader, and that headed by their Lieu-
tenants had their mufic to play to them, that they
might dance it away, and keep pace with the Com-
mander in chief. Indeed the officers who headed them
were defcrvcdly U'loved as well as their commanders,
particularly lieutenant Beard, whofcltcady and uniform
conduA in times of the grcateft danger, cannot be fuf-
ficiently admired or applauded. Neither fwayed by
palllon, nor difconcerted by the fudden embarraffments
that often intervened, his condu(fl was always calm, and
his orders refolute. He never was heard, during the
whole voyage en the mo(\ prefTing emergencies, to en-
force his commands w ith an oath, or to call a failor by
any other than his ufual name ; and fo fenfible were
they of his manly behaviour, that, when the fliip was
paid off at Deptford, they were only prevented by his
mod earned rcqucft from ftripping themfelves to their
Ihirts, to cover the flrcets with their cloaths, that he
might not tread in the dirt in going to take coach.
In fix hours, with the utmoll cnbrts of human la-
bour, they had only proceeded a Angle miles and now
it was time for them to dine, and recruit their almofl
cxhaufled fpirits. As the Commodore had laboured
with them, it was in charaifter that he (hould dine with
themalfo; and an accident happened that made it ne-
cclTaryforhim foto do. The cook, with his mates,
(who uere bringing the Commodore and the officers
their dinners under coven) to keep out the cold after
coming from a warm fire-fide, had made a little too
free with the brandy bottle before they fet out, and be>
fore they had got half way to the launces, the liquor be-
gan to operate; the cooks were fometimes very near
boarding each other, fometimes they hauled off, and
lonictimes (Peered right a-head. At length coming to
a chafm, or parting of the ice, which they were obliged
to leap, down came the maftercook, with difh, cover,
meat and all ; and what was ftill worfe, though It wa*
not then thought of much value, the Commodore's
lommon fcrvice of plate, which the cook carried for
the oflicers to dine on, fell in the chafm, and inftantly
funk to the Iwttoin. lliis accident brought the cook
a little to himfelf, and he now Hood paufing whether
he (hould jump down the gulph after the pliUe, or pro.
cecd to tlir Commodore to beg mbrcy and make his
apology. His mates perfuadcd him to the latter, as
the GsmuKKiflic was a kind-hearted gemman, and
would never take a man's life away for a flip on the ice.
Ikiides, it was a great jump for a ht man, and Com-
niodore, tliey were fure, had rather k>re all the plate in
the great cabin, than lofe cookie. Comforted a little
by this fpecch, the cook proceeded, but let his mates
goon firit with what remained, to carry the tidings of
what bcfell'thc red. When the CotnnMxlore had heard
thrflory, he judged how it was with thctn all. But
where is the cook, faid he to the matai? He's crying
l)chind, an pleafc your honour. In the mean time ths
cook caive up. Cook^ faid the ComiiKxIorc, bring me
your dinner. I will dine to.day with my comrades.
My dinncrl Ay, a pound of thcHefh next my heart, if
your honour likes it. The promptnefs of the ivply
fliewed the linccrity of the cook's good-will, and plcaW
the Conmiodore better than a fcad upon turtle. He
difmilled him with a fniile, and |>artuoK with the ofh»
cers in what was left, who made up their dinners with
a mefs fmm the common men.
They had ju(\ begun to renew their labour, when
word was brought, that the whole body of ice had
changed its fituation, and was moving to the weft,
ward I that the (hip^wcrc both a-Hoat ; and that the ice
was parting. 1'he joy w hicli this news difjfiifl'd thtONgb
the two companies of haulers is caficr to conceive than
cxprefs. They inOantly fhuuk off their harnefs, ran to
atiifl in working the fhips, and once more to lefume
their proper employments. When they arrived at the
ftiips. Captain Lutwych, who was no le(s beloved by his
men than the Commodore, had by his example and hit
judicious dircdtions done wonders. Both fliips wert
not only a-float, with their fails fct, but adlually cut and
warped through the ice near half a mile. 'This ray of
hope, however, was foon darkened ; the body of ice
fuddcniy afTumcd its former direction to the caflward,
and clofcd upon them again as fad as ever. While the
(hips remained in the ice-dock, they were laflied tone,
ther for their greater fecurity, but now being launched
and a-float, the ice prelTcd upon them with fuch
weight, that it was every moment expelled that the
hawfer would break that held them tc^cther; orders
were therefore given, that the hawfer (hould be (lack-
ened, and the (hips releafcd.
For the remainder of the evening, and till two iii the
morning, the drift continued eadward, and all that while
the (hips were in danger of being crufhed by the clo-
fing of the channel in which they rode. They had rtow
drifted two miles to the eadward; the men were worn
out with fatigue in defending the fhip* with their ice-
poles from being engulphoj; and how nothing but
fcenes of horror and pcixiition appeared before their
eyes. But the Omnipotent, in the very monnent. when
every hope of deliverance from their own united en-
deavour had relinquifhcd them, interpofed in their fii-
vour, and caufcd the winds to blow, and the ice to part
in an adoniihing manner, retding and cracking With
a tremendous noife.furpafllng that of the louden thun-
der. At this very inftant the whole continent of ice,
which before was extended beyond the reach of fight
from the highed mountains, moved together in vari-
ous diretflions, fplining and dividing into vaft bodies,
and forming hills and plains of various figures and di-
menfions. All hearu were now again revived, and the
profped ef being once more relcafed from the froxeii
chains of the north infpired the men with fixlh vigour.
Every officer and every idler on board laboured now fi>r
life. The fails were all fpread. that the (hips might
have the full advantage of the breeze to force thrim
through the channels that were already opened, and to
help them, like wedges, to rend the clefts that were
but juft cracking.
While the major part of the ciews were employed
in warping the fhips with ice-aiKhors, axes, faws and
Eles. a party from both (hips were difpatchcd to
inch the boats. This was no eafy ttfli to accom-
pli(h. The ice, though fblit in many thoufand pieces,
was yet frozen like an ifland round the launces, and
though it was of no great extent, yet the boatt were of
a weight hardly to be moved by th« fmall force that
could be fpared to launch them. They were befides,
by the driving of the ice, at more than five miles did
unce from the (hips ; and at this time no chinneb of
communication were yet opened. But IVovidence wu
manifeft even on this occalioat for the ifland on which
the launces finod, parted while the men were hauliiw
them.and by that luckycircumihmcethwwere launched
with great facility, without the lofs of a man, though
the ice cfKkcd. as it were under their (eet,
Th«
For making DISCOVERIES toward* the NORTH POLE, &c. 129
'1 crying
time tha
bring me
omradei.
heart, if
the reply
id pleated
rtle. He
the offio
men with
TI1C
The people on lx»ard had not been able to f<»rcc tlieir
way with tnc fliips much more than a mile, when the
porty in the Uuncei joined them. And now, excited by
what curiolity or inltind ia not eafy to detertninc, fcve-
ral bears came porting over the ire to be fpettjtori of
their departure, and advanced fo near the fliip«, that
they might have been eatily maOcred. had not the men
been more feriouflv employed.
Thii day they altered their foundings from thirty to
fifty fathoms, and from fifty tc «ighty and eighty, five
fathomi. „ c T^ 1 »7
The breeze continuing frefli from E. S, E. and E.
the ice feemed to open at fad at it had before clofed
when the wind blew wefterly, and from the norths a
ftrong prefumptive proof of land to the eailward,
which (topping the current of the loofe ice in driving
from the north and weft, clofei it in courfe, and ren-
ders it compaft. On the contrary, whin the wind
blows off the land, and the current lets to the fea, the
loofe ice being no longer oppofed) difperfes itfelf afpin
in the ocean, where it again floau, till. the fame caufe
produces the fame effeiU. If therefore the land which
our voyagers law on the 30th, and which they could
not determine with certamty to bean iliand, fliould,
upon fome future occafion, bedifcovered to be ;i con*
tincnt, then the clofing of the loofe ice fo fuddcniy
about the fevcn iflands. and its crouding one piece
upon another to a great height, when violently agitated
by tcmpefts from the north or weft, will be fully and
naturally accounted for.
Tuefdaythc 10th, about two in the morning, the
fog being thick, and the weather calm, and the men
very much fatigued, they were ordered to their Quar-
ters, to refrefh themfelvcs with fleep. It was, bcAdes,
very cold, and much rain fell; and as the wind was va-
riable, they could make but little progrefs. The ice,
in the morning early, feemed rather to olofe upon them,
than to divide; and being apprehenfive for their boats^
they attempted to hoift the launces on board, but that
belonging to the Carcafe, being either too i^nweildy,
or the mcAtoo much fatigued^to effcd it, they flung
hertothelhip'sfide. ,,
About eight the breeze fprui^ up ttfOx fiKVP the. N.
E. exceedingly cold, but opening the ice to tl^ weft-
ward. They then made all the fail they could, idnyuig
with the loofcning ice, and parting it wherever it was
moveable with their whole force. Towards noon they
.loft fight of the Seven Iflands. And in a very little
while after, to their great joy, Sphibergen was fecn frain
the maft-head.
Wednefday 11, the men who, with hard labour, cold
and watching, were much difptrited,onthe profpe(fl of
a fpeedy deliverance, and feeing the ice no longer ad-
here in immoveable bodies, began, after a little refrefli-
ment, to refume their wonted chearfulneb. They had
not till the fecond clofing of the ice, after the attempt
to dig a paflage through it had proved ineffedual, and
that the hauling the launces had been tried with little
better fuccefs, difcovered the leaft deljiondency. But
when they had exerted their utmoft efforts, and Provi-
dence, which at firft feemed to fecond their endeavours,
appeared to have forfakenthem; when their pilots had
filled their minds with the terrors of their fituatign;
«nd their officers had giyen the fliips and their moft va-
luable effeifls over for loft, the men then began to re-
fled on the hardftiips they were likely to fuper, and to
be imprcflcd with the fenfe of their common danger.
Their apprchenfions, however, were but temporary,
sind the moment they were rele^ed from their i^cy pri-
Ibn, and that they were within fight of a clear fea, their
forrow was changed to mirth, and their melancholy to
rejoicing. Fcftivity and jollity took place of abfti-
nence and gloomy appKhenfions; and before they ar- '
rived at SKitflxrgen, there was not a failor on board with
a fcriout (ace. , ^
The ice thtt had parted. from the main, body, theyj
had now time to admire. As it no longer obfttu^edj
'their courfe, the various (hapes in which the oipkcn |
fragments appeared, were indeed very curious and!
No. 40. •
a nuifing. One remarkable piece deft rihcd a imigiiifi-
cnit arch fo large and compfcutly (brmed, that a floop
of conlidcrable burden might have failed through it
without lowering her inaft; another reprcfcnted a
church with windaws and pillars, and domes; and a
third, a table with icicles hanging round it like the
fringes of a damaflc cloth. A fertile imagination
might here find entcrtainini-nt enough 1 lor, as has al-
ready been obferved, the fiinilitiuic of all that art or
nature has ever yet produced, might here be fancied.
They continued working all this day through the
loofe ice. Hacluit's Headland bearing fouth 39 weft,
and In their courfe faw a Dutch Greenlandman in the
S. W. quarter.
Thurfday the 1 ath, they cleared the ice, and bore
away with all fails fct (or the harbour of Smearing-
burg, in which they had before caft anchor. At two
in the afternoon thev anchored in North Bay, the north
part of Vogle Sound bearing north 45 eaft. diftance about
four miles. At half after four the Conimoilorc made
the (ignal to weigh; and at half paft nine, came to an
anchor in their lormer ftarion, where they found four
Dutch Grecniandmen lyi.ie m rcadinefs to depart.
Thcfe Dutchmen acquainted the <. < immodore, that all
the Englilh filhing fhips fct fail on the loth of July,
the day to which they are obliged by contrad, to ftay
to entitle their owners to receive the bounty-money, al-
lowed by Pailiament for the encouragement of that
fifliery.
About the fame time the grcatcft part of the Dutch
fct fail likev.ifc ftiom Spitlbergen, oa their voyage
hoijie ; but it is a pradlce with thcfe laft, to take it by^
turns to wait till the feverity of the weather oblige*
them to leave the coaft, in order to pick up fuch men as
may by accident have loft their ftiips in the ice; and
w|)o^ notwithftanding, may have had the good fortune
to,faye their lives by ipcaiis of their boats. This is a
very humane inftitution, and does credit to the Dutch
Government. Did the 'Britilh Government bear an
equal regard for individuals, fo many valuable fubjedls
would never be fulTered to migrate, as now annually
hire fliips to convey thcmfelves to fc^k their fortunes
in pe^ fettlements. It is eftimated, that twelve thoii-
ffind at leaft are yearly fljint oft" fropi Ireland, and not
many lefs from England and Scotland, yet no mea-
li'ires are thought ncccffat^ to be taken to retain them at
home.
The turn of waiting at Spitftjcrgen falls annually to
rt« lot.pf about five Dutch ftiips, who are obliged to
(end out their boats daily infearchof their unfortunate
fellow fubjeds; Came of thcib boats have'thcmfclves
fuftcred leverely, and have been detained feven or
eight da^-s by fcvere weather in thcfe cxcurfions, to the
great anxiety of their friends.
The day of our voyagefs return to Smcaringburg
Harbour being fine, the Commodore ordered a tent to
be raifed oh the lower point to the S. W. where there
was a level plain (br the fpsicc of two miles, and where
all the mathematiical apparatus were again taken on
Ihorefor a fecond trial.
They found, on the examination of the vibration of
the pendulum, that it differed from that at Greenwich
by Hiirrifon's time keeper, only two feconds in foity-
^g^t hours; which time- keeper, at their arrival at
Greenwich, vari«l only one fecond and a half from the
time-pitfces at the obfervarory there. Mr. Robinfon,
who was articled to Commodore Phipps, from Chrift's
Hofpital. and who does honour to that noble fou ndation,
was particularly careful to notethe refult of all the obi
f(;r«itions that were made in this high latitude.
; The ovens were alfb here taken on ftiore, and acon-
fidcraUe quantity of good foft bread baked for the re-
fre(hment of the iheh, '
Hacluit's Headland, of which mention ha* beet»
frequently made In the courfe of this , voyage, i* an
ifland onth* N. W. point of Spitftjwgen, about i<
miles in circumference, oh .which is found plenty of
fcurvy-grafs; and in the Villeys, feme of wliich ex-
tend from two to three miles, there is ftore of other
+ g„ft
Ih
'• ■»• ' I
'I 'r
330 Commodore PHIPPS (now Lord MULORAVE*) VOYAGE
i I
crafs in fumnicr, on which the deer it ruppoTcd to
The people were now full^ employed in overhauling
(he rig(;ins, tarring the (hipi ndet, taking in water,
peying and fecuring the nwfti, ami in preparing the
(liipi for purFuing their voyage upon dirc*very i or,
if that was found impradlicabie, for returning home.
On the 1 6th, two of the Dutch (hipi weighed anchor,
and failed awav in company.
On the 1 7tn, vaO pieces of broken ice, fuppofed to
have fallen from the Icebergs, came floating into har-
bour. When thefe pieces, which are undermined by
the continual agiution of the Tea in ftormy weather,
lofc their fupport, they tumble with a crack that fur.
pflcs the louden thunderi but the^ were told, that no
other thunder was ever heard in this latitude.
The adivity and entcrprizing fbirit of the Ruffians
already noticed, begin to mam feu itfcif every where,
and it is not improbable, but that the maritime powers
may one day or ether have caufe to repent their emula-
tion in contributing to aggrandize the naval power of
that increafiiw people. The dominions of the RufTian
tmpire, are fituated to command the trade of the uni-
verfe ; they arc now adhially crcding a yard for build-
ing (hips at Kampfchatka, to improve their difcoveries
from that quarter, and to open a trade from thence to
China. They have attempted to fettle colonies, as our
voyagers were told, on tne fouthernmoft diftridfls of
SpitiDergen,andthofcof the ncwfcttlers, who furvived
the fird wiiuer, were preparing to encounter the rigour
of the climate in a fccona. This can only be done by
way of experiment, to trjr if a fcttlcment is pnu^licable,
for thofe new fent are faid to be criminals.
During the fix days which the (hips anchored herC
to make obfervations, take in water, refrefh the men,
and refit, our journalift made feVeral excurfions to th<
adjoining idands, where the birds appeared in aftonilh-
ing numbers i it being the feafbn for bringing forth
their young, and teaching them to Ry, and to dive.
Of all the birds that breed in thelc iflands, the bur-
germafter is the latgelt, and the mod ravenous > he is
)o called bv the Dutch, from his flze and hi)s authority,
as he holds all the other birds in fubjehed before he Is
,\ware. Many have been cntoinDed in thcfc clefts, aiul
perilhed in the hcariiu of their companions, without
a poflibility of rciietT To a contemplative mind,
however, even the deformitiea of nature, are .nut un-
plcaflng, the wifilom of the Creator being nunifeft in
all his works.
On the 19th of Augud the (hips unn)oored, and on J
the 30th thev cleared the harbour. They found the ;
tide to flow N. E. and S. W. and to rife three .fcct;
fevtn inches perpendicular hei|{ht.
On the 33nd, they again fouit4 tjieiAfeiyes befet withj
'loofe ice. They were then in latitude SO Heg. 14 ptin.!
N. longitude <^eg. 44. mio-.E. j
Qn the lanio, they bad it heavy foi frbm the S. WJ
■quarter. ,
., On the 33rd, thc'CareaTct being a hcaVtdr (kiler than
the Race I lorfc, lo(» fight of the Commodore, ami fired
a (Ix pounder, which «u anl\»cred. In the evening
they came in light, and purfucd their courfe with fa-
vourable weather, and without any thing worthy of
notice happening till
September 5, when, being clear and calm weather,
the Comnwdore founded, and found ground with 700
fathoms, very foft mud. The people were employed
eight hours in heavin^f up the lead with the capflan.
At three in the morning the fun rifen, took the am-
plitude, and found the variation to be 33 dcg. 53
min. W.
September 7, at five in *c afternoon, they had heavy
fqualls, with raim at feven in the morning moderate
weather. This day, in 60 deg. i c min. W. they found
their longitude, corrcAcd by obfervation of (un ami
moon, to be 5 deg. 5^ min. K. Longitude by time-
keeper 4 deg. 45 nun. E. a very remarkable dif-
ference.
The (hips purflied their courfe home in company
together, with high fcai and variable weather, till Sep-
tember II, wheh. at half after ten, the night dark, and
the weather nMMet'ate, the wind all at once veered to
the fouthward, and a flrohR gale with a great fea came
on. The (hips parted, arid hever man came in fight
till they met olT Harwich, on the EngliHi coalV.
Our joumalilt being on board the Carcafe, can now
only relate what happened to that (loop, till her arrival
in the River ThsAnet.
When the gale came on, the Commodore's iighti not
appearing, the Carcafe ffred a fix-poondcr, bat that
(hot not being reti^tned by the Race Horfe, it was con-
eluded, that the Commodore wat at too great a dif-
tance to hear the flgnal. At four in the morning the
gale increafing, they clofe reefed the top fails, and
ennloyed all hands in lafliingand fecuring the boat*
and booms, and preparing to withltand the threatening
ftorm. At this time they were in latitude 57 deg. 44
min. N. the Nate of NorWay bbariiig S. 88 E. dmarti
31 leagues.
Sunday, September id, fre(h galea, with frequent
flpwcrs of n\p : handed gib and (tay-fall 1 at two ill
the a(^^rndbrt haidftjUfllis and violent >(howcrs of mini
handed fore and mizen top-fail 1 faw a 6A[ to fouth-
ward ftanding to eaflwardi cloudy and obfcure (kyi
at ten at night came on fuddenly a very heavy fquallj
handed all the top-failst ftrong gale, with fevere
flwwers of rain. At midnight blowmg a violent fldrm
of wind, reefed and hahdMl the main-fail and foreu
fail J lowered down the lower yards, balanced the
mizen, and laid the (Itip to under it. with her bead
to the wcflwatti ; the fea making a free pafTage over the
(hip. Shipped (uch heavy fcas, wafhed all the piovi-
fions and ca(ks that were laihed on the deck, over-
board; kept two pumps continually ^ing; obliged to
(kuttle the h6i.U, (o prevent their being wa(hcJ over-
board. At four in tne rooming (hipped fuch heavy
leas, as wa(hed all the booms and fpars that had been
with all poflible care feeured on the deck, over-board .
The (hip moflly under water. No light of the Com-
modore; under great apprehenflons for his fafcty, as
his velTel laboured much more than ours. At this
time one of the mates, the carpenter, and a fore-ma(l.
man, were wa(hed over-board. The carpenter, a very
carefiil fober rtum, who was in the wafle, fecuring the
hikfches and florei, was walhed in and out at the port
three times, before he could fecurc himfclf. - At ten in
the morning rather moderate. Set the mizen-flay-fail;
fwayed the lower jrards up, and fet the courfes. At
halt paft eleven, (trong fqualls and heavy gufts ; haadol
both courfes; and fettled the lower yards.
September 13, ftrong gales and fqually. Continu-
ally (hipping heavy feas. At three in the afternoon
rather more modetate; fet tvcf courfes ; fwayed up the
lower yarijs, and fet the main-top-fail. The ihip now
makiiw lio Water; at feven in the evening fei fore-top
fail aijid gib; Very heavy fea from S. W. quarter. At
eight in the evening moderate and cloudy ; let the third
rwf'OUt'ef the maio-top-fail ; (bunded 35 fitthonis
fine
For making DISCO VER IE S towartli the NORTH I'OLE, &c. 33I
fine brown ftnd. At one in the morninn light «ir».
h«tey neither, and Rre«tfe». Wore (hip. and ftood
to weftward. At four frefti brec-tci, with rain. At
half part ciRht faw a fail to eaftward 1 fupnoftng it the
Commodore, made the private liKnal, and firetl a fu-
Eounder. At nine bore down upon her. and brought
er to. She proved a Hollander from ArchanRfl.
bound to Bremen. Courfe S. 41 W. latitude 56 deg.
4 min. N.
September 14, ftrong jm!e«, and cloudy ; under reef
courlci. At two in the alterniwn moderate i fct main-
top-fail. At three fet forc-top-fail t a great fca from
wellward. At feven in the evening moderate and
cloudy. Out the third reef of the main-top fail 1 un-
certain weatheri fqually, and at times mucn raini at
three great fog. 1 hii day at noon, Flamborough-head
S. 4^ W. diftaiKe 30 leaguei.
September 1 5. light brcczci. and clear weather 1 oiit
all rcefi.and fwayed up the lower yardi. At four in
the afternoon faw a fail to the S. E. bore down and
brought her to. She proved to be a PrulTian fiflierman.
fiadbeen 10 days from Edinburgh) hoiftcd out the
hnall cutter 1 the fccond lieutenant went on board of
her, and bought a fine cargo of filh. At five the boat
returned; we hoifted her on board, with plenty of
mackarel and herrings. Made fail, and ftooti to S, W.
(bunded every half luiurs found from 13 to 1.5 and 1 8
fiithomi. fine brown fand, mixed with black Ibells. At
(even in fhe evening took the firft reef, and hauled in
the top-fails: frcfh ^lea and cloudy. At two in the
morning deepened in wattr to jo fathom. Took in
fccond reef of the top-fails I tacked fliip, and ftood to
N. W. At five in the morning got into 1 5 fathom j
and at fcven into i o. At nine in the morning clofc
reefed the top fails, and at 10 handed them s very frelh
gale, and violent rain.
September 16, rather more moderate; fet the main-
top-fail; fqually, with rain; a confufcd fca from W. ,
N. W. At five in the afternoon foundings from $ to
n, from 2^ to ji and 34 fathoms, fine brown fand,
black fpeckt, frefh galea and cloudy. At eight took in
Brft and fecond reefs of top-fails ; at eleven at night
clofe reefed the nuin and fore-top-fail, and handed the
mizen; frelh gales, and cloudy weather. At four in
the morning moaled water to 22 fiithoms ; brown fand
and broken (hells. At five law fevcral fail to N. W.
fired, and brought one of them to. At ci<4ht fliook
the firft and fecond reefs out of the top-fail ; hove down
upon a floop, which came from Gravcfend ; took on
board the mailer, as a pilot to carry the (hip through
Yarmouth Roads; put on board one ma 1 in his room,
and ordered his vclTel to follow us. Stood to the
fouthward.
September 1 7, frefh breezes, and cloudy weather ;
kept the lead going every half hour; found our found-
ing from 10 to 12 fathoms, fine brown fand. At fix
in the afternoon frelh gales ; clofc reefed the main-top-
fail ; foundings from iotoi6 fathom; broken (hells and
latgc nones. At feven clofe reefed the nuin-top-fail;
kept a light in the poop-lanthorn for the floop. At
ten ftrong gales; hanclcd the top-fails ; laid her to
under the main-fail ; handed the fore-fail. At eleven
at night got into five fathom ; but deepened to eight,
nine and ten fathom brown fand. Loft fight of the
filhin^ veffel ; fired fevcral ^ns, and made a fignal in
the mizen-ftiroud. On fetting the fore-tep-fail ftacil,
it blew to pieces ; bent a new one. A violent gale of
wind; fhipped a great quantity of water. At four
>rather inoaeratc; let the forc-uil. At midnight fet
clofe; reefed top-faiis. At halfpaft fix tacked; at
feven faw the fifhiiw ve(rcl ; bore down and fpoke with
her, who had fplit her main-fail in the night. At ten
£iw the land bearing S. W. by W. and S. and by W.
At eleven being clear and moderate weather, fliook all
.the reefs out of the top-fails, and fet the top-gallant-
fails ; faw Cromer light-houfe bearing S. 55 (Kg. W.
diftancc five leagues.
September 19, frefli breezes and cle«r .weatheri bent
the tticct-cable, and hauled a range oY the belt and
fmall bowcr-cahirs ; bent boih buoy rope* and buoys
(o the anchor. At five light breezes and fniri tacked
and ftood 10 the louthward. At fix tacked and IhNid
to the north-weft. Cramer N. W. and by N. (our
miles; light breezes, and plcafant weather 1 handed in
top-gallant-fails, and handed the main-fail. At feven
in the evening, to our great joy, faw Yarmouth Church,
bearing S. W. At ten at night came to anchor with
the b-ft bower in twelve fathom, tine fand and rlav 1
veered out to half a cable, and handed all the (ails.
Winterftone Nefs lights bore S. and by W. four mil»*.
At two in the morning (nth breezes and cloudy. At
half paft four wcighco, and made fail. Employed in
working from Winterftone Nefs lights, ro Yarmouth
Roads, making fevcral tacks. At irvcn in the morn-
ing fct top-galTant-fails ; at nine came to an anrhor in
Yarmouth Road, with bell bower in fcven tiithoms wa-
ter; (and and clay. Yarmouth church foiith lifccc-ii
weft, diftance two miles. Came on board a pilot to
carry the ftiip to the Nore.
September 10, frelh breezes and clear weather; fent
down top-gallant-yards, and got every thing clear tor
ftriking tokens. At five in tne afternoon moored the
ftiip. Yarmouth church W. S. W. two iniles.
September 21, frelh gales and clo«idy, with fitrqucnt
rain. At four in the afternoon fcnt dow-n top-gnllant-
maft. At eight in the morning fcnt the lung -boat on
(hore for water. We were this day vifited by fcveral
of the inhabitants of Norwich and Yarmouth, who
were genteelly entertained by the officers, but we coulJ
get no intelligence of the Commodore.
September 23, dark cloudy weather. At fix in the
evening fwayed up the top-maft, and lower y.irds; the
wind veered to N. W. we prqiared to unmoor. Frefh
gales, with frequent fbfties of^ lightning. At feven in
the morning fet on top-gallant-maft, and began tu un-
moor. At eight veeied away upon the beft Iwwcr, and
took up the fnuU bower-anchor. At nine wi'i|;hed
and made fail. At ten got up the top-gallaiit-yards.
in company with fevcral mips.
Saturday 2 j, at five came to an anchor in eleven fa-
thoms. Orford light-houfe E. by S. four miles. This
day fomc religious books were diflributed among th(i
fiiilors, which had been fcnt on board by fome pioua
perfon for their particular perufal.
Sunday 26. At fix in the evening came to with the
beft bower in feven fathoms water; Balfey church W.
by S. At two in the morning weighed, and came to
fail; Harwich lights N, W.by W. To their great
furprife, faw the Race Horfe at anchor. Hoiftcrl out
the cutter, and Captain Uitwych waited on the Com-
modore, from whom he learnt, that in the ftorm of the
twelfth they had all their boats waflied over-board 1
and, to eafe the fhip were obliged to heave all their guns
over-board, except two. Came to anchor; Harwich
church N. W.
Monday 37, at two in dte afternoon weighed, and
came to (ail in company with the Race Horfe. At
eight in the evening camr. to in thcSwin. At five in the
morning weighed, m connpany as before. Turning up '
the Swin at lulf paft nip.-, came to; Whiuker Beacon
N. N. E. one mile.
Tuefdav 28, frcih breezes and cloudy weather. Ac
half paft three weighed, and came to fail. At half pail
fix came to with the beft bower in fix fiithom water 1
Shoe Beacon N. W. At half paft five weighed, and
came to fail. Working to windward at eleven in the
forenoon, the Commooore'a boat came on board, with
cffdera to pioceed to Deptford. At noon came to ac
the Nore with the beft bower.
Wednefday 2j|, light breezea and fair weather. At
half paft five weighed, and made fail. Employed in
workmg up the river. At half paft ten came to with
the beft bower in the gallioiu, in three fathoms water.
Woolwich church N. oy S. one half £. At noon a
hoy came along-fide for the gunner's ftores.
Thurfday 30, employed moft of the afternoon in
(Ktting outthc|pins, and gunner's ftores. At nine in
the evening wcrghcd, and came to fiiil. At ten run
i'
J3* CuMMODoKK FHIPFS (now Lomd MUl.OKAVEi) V O Y A (J K
I
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m
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>-^ til
If
HNil of a large cranfiMtrt, and carried away the lar-boirvi
niiccn>lbn>uils, and |mi( of the channel. At one in the
iiutrninK came to anchor ut Dcptlord. Warjoed along-
lidc the Ik-dlord Hulk, and inoored. Ac lix unbent
the fail*, and bc|;ait to unria.
'Iliu* ended a voyage, which fcmii to hav * deter-
mined the qucl>ion To much aKitateii conccrniiit the
navigation to the north pole, and proved what Captain
Wood had before atTerted, that no palFagc would ever
be tmind pradicable in that direction.
From the quantities of ice which that navigator
iiict with in latitude 76 degrees north, he concluded
indeed erroneoully, that the loth degree, would
bound the palVage towards the pole*, and that from
thence the|iular region wai either a continued conti-
nent of foiid ice, or that land filled up the interme-
diate- fpace.
It h.ij been found, however, that thofe Teas arc na-
vi^.-il)lc ai far a« 81 and 81 drg. of latitude; and
it may piiiribly ha|>pen, that in Tome future yean, they
may be ttxind navigable a degree or two farther: but it
may now with certainty be concluded, that a courfe
uiioer the pole can never be purfucd lor the pur|)ofc of
commerce.
We hrtve already Ihewn inconteftibly, that the north
Tea communicates with the eaOern lea, and that the
ptnitge to China and Japan may be |)erformcd with
difliciiltv l»y aN. K courfe, by watching the opportu-
nity, w hen a few days in the year the north Tea m open.
But w ho would think of cx|x>ling a (liip's con)|>aiiy to
the hazard of being frozen to death in a tedious, un-
certain, and danptrous iMffagc. when a fafe, certaia,
and, one may lay, fpeedy paflage at all times lies open
before them.
I'roiu Behring'i difcoveries to the eaft of Japan, and
from the continent he there met with, there feems rca-
fon to believe, that the land feen by Commodore Phipps
to the eallwaidof the Seven Ifiands, might be a conti-
nuation of that continent. In that cafe it is not im-
probable, but that either that continent may join to
the wclU-rn part of America, or that it may extend
fouthu ard; and form a part of that continent fo much
fuuijht after in the fouthern hemifphere.
A fmal! premium of two or three thoufand pounds
fecured by Parliament, to be paid to the owner or ow-
ners of any Greenland lilliing fliip, that (hould be for-
tunate enough todi'iovcr fucn a continent to the caft-
w.ird or northward of the Seven Iflands, might pof-
libly have a better etfoiil, than many ex penfivc expedi-
tions lictcd out fulcly for the purpofes of fuch difco-
.very. This, by a trading nation, were it only to im-
prove the fcicncc of geography, would furely be well
bcfto« cd.
Ic it true, indeed, that the reward fccnred by parlia-
ment for thcdifcovcry of a north-weft pafTagc, has not
yet been attcndetl with that fucccfs, with which the
promoters of the bill had flattered themfelves and the
public, from the liberal fpirit with which it was
•granted.
'1 ho Hudfon's Bay Company, though bound by their
charter to further and promote the diTcovery, were ge-
nerally fufpci ted from intereftcd motives, to oppofc
and difcourapc every attempt to accomplifli it. And
;.Captain Miclcileton, who in 174O was fent in a king>
lliip u[x>n that fcrvice, returning without fuccefs, was
publicly charged with having received a bribe of five
thoufaiid poundstodefeat the undertaking, and by his
report to difcourage any farther anempts in purfuit of
_it. This charge was ftrongly fupported, and generally
'crcditcil And Mr. Dobbs. by wnofc intercft Captain
- Middlcton u as employed, had the addrefs to prevail
with the tlien niinidry, to preclude «ny future icheme
of private corruption, by promoting the public reward
already mentioned.
The preamble to the' aifl will ftatc this matter in the
true light it fets forth, " That whereas the difcovcry of
a north- weft pafTagc through Hudfon's Streight to the
wcftcri) ocean would be of great beiKfit and advantage
to this kiiigdoni, and that it wotdJ be-«f frcM idvan'
tage to the ailventurers to attt'in|ir ihrfaiiu-, il a pub.
lie reward was given to fuch iierlttni as (l)ould make a
[KtfcH difiovvry of the faid (MlFagei it in lltrretbre
ena(!led, that if any Ihipsor vifUlt l)rl(ingin){ to lus
majeHy* fubjei'ti ihall lind out and liiil ihrnugh any
paltiige by (ca hi' ecn Hudfon's Iwy and the wiHcrn
ocean of America, the owners of fuch llu|)» or vcUrN
Hull be entitled to receive as a reward fur fuch ill fcoviry
the funt of Twenty-thouland Pounds." Ami a-i x far-
ther encoumgcment to pnifccutc this difc<>\ir\, and to
prevent obdruClion.i from intciclUd lurloni^ it was
cn.n.'kd. " that all perfoni, fubjivl* of In, MaicHy, le-
fiding in any plate where the faid adventurer* iiiay
come in the profecutionof this difcovcry, lliallgivi the
faid advcntiircr» all allillance, and fliall no way ol>-
(IruOf, molcH.or rclufe the faid advcMtiiiirs leafonablu
fuccour in any ilinrcfi they may fall into in the proft-
cutionof this ilifcover) "
Such wai the ciuouia^rnunt, and fuch the liberal
reward that was and u li-curid by parliament to tin-
fortunate difcovcrers of a north-weft iialliij^c to the
fjreat pacific ocean 1 a palFage which, it is^jciKrally bi-^
leved, would o;kh a trade with nstion* on the nor-
thern continent of America, wholly unknown to the
iiiaritime powers of I'uiope, and fuppoful, liom their
fituation, to abound in cDiiimoditics eijii.illy rare and
precious witb. thofe of any other country uiuler the fun.
The fair profjKCt of alluring tame by enlarging
commerce, the hope of obtaining the parliamciitaiy
reward, and thedelire of expoliiig the difin^enuity of
Captain Middlcton, were incitements fullicient to pre-
vail with Mr. I3obbs to folicit the riiiiipment of two
ftiips for another voyage, whii h he m.ide not the Ifaft
daubt would find out the pn|laj>e lb long fought for in
vain, and by the advama^;es aumding the diiVovery,
exceed the moft fanguinc expci^btions of the adven-
turers.
The command of this expedition was given to Cap-
Hlis, who, on the 1 1 ft of May, 1 746, palled Yarmouth
in the Dobb's Galley, accompanied by the Californi.-s
Sloop, and convoyed to the north fea bv the I.00 man
of war. But in pmportion as Mr. Dobbs had tfattetvil
the avarice of the adventurers who were to fliare in the
reward, and had elated himfelf with the thoii{;hts of
triumphing over the difgrace of Captain Middlcton,
fo it happened, that when the fliips returned without
having elfeded any one thin^; of confajucnce, the cha-
grin of the former for having advanced their money
on a virionar)^ projed, ami the mortification of the lat-
ter in not being able to fupport his charge, Acre in-
creafed by every circumllance that could a^^gravate the
difappoiiitment. Captain Middlcton now triumphed
in his turn, and no fliip from I-'.ngland has fince been
induced to undertake the voyage, notwithllanding the
greatnefs of the reward.
It is ftill, however, believed, that government have
in contemplation another voyage to the north, to which
that of Captain Fhipps w.isonly the prelude; but there
is reafon to conclude, from what has alre.idy been (aid
of thefe latter attempts, and from the ill fuccefs of for-
mer undertakings, triat the difcovery of a north-weft
pafTage is not the fole objetil in view. The figure of
the earth, the phenomena of the winds, the variation
of the compafs, and the atiraclion of the m.-tgnet, are
point) yet unfettled, of infinite importance to naviga-
tion ; and it is not impoffible, but that a more careful
examination of the polar regions may lead to the folu-
tion of problems, that have hitherto baffled the enquirici
of the ableft navigators.
A very Hender acquaintance with the difficulties and
hardfhips attending nonhern difcoveries, will fully ac-
count for our knowledge of the countries fUrrounding
the pole being ftill very imperfcift. A brief recapitu-
lation of the fufferings of thofe to whom we arc moft
indebted for our information, will not, we hope, be
thought an improper conclufion to a voyage folely ua*
dertaken with a view tp enlarge it.
The firft who conceived the idct of explrving the
jiorthem regioni was Sebaftj^n Cabbot. 'That enter-
prizing
For making DISCOVERIES (owardi the NORTH POLK, tu.
3J3
pritinK lU^igMOf, lonR before M«»IUn thought of ■
iMiragc tothc p»tific ocewi by the touth-wcrt, h»d iiuUe
two voyages, with »view to Jiroit hii courfc to|he
fame fea by the north-weft. In thefe voyagci. he dif-
covercil Newfoundland, the cotft of the Efquimeaux
Indian*, and had penetrated at far u the 64th degire
of latitude, when a mutiny ainona hit men. or rather
anobftinatcrtfufal to proceed any further, otjligcd hm»
to return I yet he died in the oerfuailnn that a iMflagc
in that dircdtinn certainly esiftcd. and that he Ihould
have found it but for the oppofition of hit crew.
The next, who prepoflcfled with the fame notion,
undertook a voyage for difcoveriei toward* the north.
wa* Sir Martin I'orbilhcr. He difcovercd (irecniand.
and in the latitude of 61 deg. north, palTcd aftrait,
which, thoiffih it ftill hold* a place in our map*, ha*
never been found navigable flnce. \ Ic made two other
voyage*, difcovercd many bajr* and cape*, to which he
gave name*, but returned without attaining the prin-
. cipal objedl of hi* voyage, though like hi* predcceflbr.
he aflertcd the ccrttiniy of in ekiRcnce to hi* latcft hour.
To him fuccccdcd Sir Humphry Gilbert, whom
ij«3 traverfed the coaft of Labradorc. entered the
mouth of the great river Sc. Laurence, and, furround-
Ing the idand of Newfoundland, laid the foundation of
the cod (ifliery, which ha* been profecutcd with iiiu
roenfc advantage to hi* country ever fince.
The rapid progrcfs of difcoveriei in the fouthcrn
hemifphere, which about thiitimc were attended with
vaft profit to the adventurers, re-animated cotemporary
navigfiton to profecute, with more ardour than ever,
their enterprizci toward* the north. The more the pa-
cific ocean became known, the firmer the belief pre-
vailed, that a paflage into it by way of the north mud
certainly cxift, and that whoever could difcover it,
would not only immortalize hit lumc, but enrich his
country.
The merchants of that time were no lefs eager to
embark their moacy, than the navigator* were to ha-
zard their perfon* ijjany new projca, where the hope
of gain appcarr*^ Tu be well founded. A company
therefore of wealthy perfoni in London agreed to join
a company of merchanu in the weft, and to fit out
two ftiipa for the difcovery of a paflage. which all
agreed was praAicablc. though none could tell readily
where to find it. To the command of this expedition
Capuin John Davis wu ftrsngly recommended as an
able navigator, and of a bold and entcrprifing fpirit.
Accordingly, on the 7th of June. i6Sj, he fct fail
from Dartmouth, in the Sun-fhmc of fifty ton*, and ac-
companied by thcMopn-ihincofthirty-fivc tons.having
on board both veflcis fony-two hardy feamen. On the
19th of July they were alanned by a mighty roaring,
which was the more terrible, as the fog wa* fo thick,
that they could not fee each other at a fliip's lenj^th.
It proved only the crackline of the iflandt of ice,
which was not then very well underftood. On the
breaking up of the fog they difcovercd land, which,
from its horrid appearance, they named the Ljmd of
Defolation. Oa the 34th they were in 64 d^. 1 j min.
north, the fea open and the weather moderate. In
this latitude they difcovercd land, and converfed with
the natives, who appeared to be a harmlefs hdpitable
people, polite in their manners, neatly habited, and
not ill-favoured. Thefe friendly people, obfcrving
that the Englifti admired their fors, went up in the
country to wing down more, with which th^ traded
«rith much fimplicity. To an adjoiqins hill Davis
gave the name of Mount Raleigh. »om which be took
nis departure on the 8th of Auguft. and on the nth
doubled the foutbemmoft cape in view, to which he
gave the name of the Cape of God's Mercy, and en-
tered a ftrait, which bears the name of the dilcoverer
ro this day. In this ftrait he failed fixty leagues, and
on the 1 4th went on fluMv, and found evident fifflu of
human inhabitanu, being met by a pack of do^
(twenty in number) that cxprefled their jov, aa if their
nuftcrs had beeii returned after an Interval of abfence.
One of thofe had on a leathern collar. The Captain
No. 40.
wa* highly pteafcd with the pmmiring appearand- of
the new ftraits, and confuting with the iitalter, agreed
to report, upon their return home, that ihey hud lui'nd
the wi(hcd-for palTage to the wcftcm fea.
The weather changing from temperate to cxcefTivt
cold, on the loth it wa* refolved to fct fail lur F.ng-
land. On the 1 ith of .September they fell in with the
land of Defolation, and on the 30th of the fainetnonth
entered the port of Dartmouth without the lofs of a
man.
The account Captain Davis gave to his owners was
fo well received, that other merchants weredeftrou* of
joining in a fecond expedition, and accordingly he was
again employed, and fumiftied with a much greater
force.
On the 7th of May he failed from Dartmouth in the
Mermaid, of rie tons, in company with the Sun-
(hine and Moon-ftiine a* before, and an idditioiul pin-
nace of thirteen tons, called the North Star.
In the latitude of 60 degree* north Captain Davis
divided hi* force, ordering the Sun-fliine and North
Star to feck a palfage between Greenland and Iceland,
while the Mermaid and Moon-ftiinc continued their
courfc to the ftrait a* before. In the latitude of 64 de-
ercci, and longitude 58 deg. 30 min. north from Lon-
don, they fell again in with the land, and met the fame
people with whom they had traded the former year.
Ovcrjoyetl to meet, they reiKWcd their acquaintance,
and while the bjigliOi wu prcf»ring a pinnace to faci-
litate their difcoveries, the natives came in numben to
carry on trade. As foon as the pinnace was fitted for
fea, Captain Davis difuatched her to examine the in-
lets on the coaft, and to trace their courfe up the
main land ( but that wan prududive of no eflcntial dif-
covery.
Though the natives attended them with anobfe-
quious diligence, yet on their kindling a fire in their
manner, aikd uiiiw fome ftrange ceremonies. Captain
Davis fuppofing them to be uiuig idolatrous forceries,
firft thruft the prieft into the fmokc, and then encou*
I raged his men to tread out the Hame, and to fpurn the
recking coals into the fea. Unable to bear the infult,
the natives for the firft time besan to fliew rcfentmcnt.
They fcizcd the boat from the ftem of the Moon-
fliine, cut the cable belonging to the Memuid, nude
prize of the implcntcnu that la^ upon the fliore, and,
in flrart, declared open hoftilities a^inft the aggref*
fon. who in return difcharoed their artillery among
them, which inftantly difperfed them.
No civilities, however, that could be ftiewn them,
after the indignity offered to their prieft, could ever
after reconcile them, and the year folfowina they fouiid
an opportunity to take a fevere revenge. In the mean
time one of them being made prifoner, was taken on
board the Mermaid 1 wlw, after recovering his fright,
trimmed up his darts, repaired his fifliing tackle, picKcd
oakam, and fet his hand to any thing he was fct about (
and, after a time, became a very picafant companion
onboard.
On the 17th of July, in latitude 63 degrees 8 min.
north, they fell in with a continent of ice, very high,
like land, with bays and caps, and, till they examined
it clofely, could not be convinced that it was a mcM^
congelation. They coafted it till the 30th, when the
weather became fo tempcftuoua and fogar, and withal
fo coU, that the ftiroudi, ropes, and uUs were frozen
and glazed with ice 1 and the men, who the year before
found the fea open aind the weather temperate, beaime
fo dilpirited, that in an orderly manner they addrriTcid
their Commander, and intreated him to confider their
prefent fituation, to have regard to his own life, and
the prefervation of theirs t and not thiou^ boldnela
and an indiftrect zeal for a hopelefs difcovery, leave
their widows and iatherlcis children to blacken his me>
moty with bitter curfes. Moved with their pitiable
repiefentatioii, he difchaiged the Mermaid with thoft
who were molt deiiitxM of returning home, and pm-
cceded in the Moonftiine to proiccute hit voyage.
Changing hit courfc to recover the opf)ditc (hore en
4 P the
I
4
m
■ > 1.1 II
t
'ir.'i
334 Commodore PHIPPS (now Lorb MULORAVE's) VOYAGE
^^.
I
the i(t ot'Auguft, in latitude 66 deg. -ij min. N. and
longitude 70 dcg. W. he difcovcrcd land, without
either ice or fi.ow. On the 2nd, they caft anchor in
( line road, and in a day or two were vifited by the
natives, who came to traflic. On the 14th, they ftt
Tail to the wcftward, and on the i6th, changed their
courfe to the foiithward. On the 1 8th, they difcover-
ed a high promontory to the N. W. which having
no land to the fouth, recovered their hopes of a free
paflbge.
On doubling the Cape, they found the land trending
away to the fouth in broken illands, and coafting along
till ihcy arrived at a fine opening, in latitude 57 deg.
they failed i o leagues, w ith woods and lawns on each
fule, aliouniling with deer and game of every kind.
Here they llaid till the ift of September, and thenfct
fail, coafting along to the northward, where they
were again Hattered with the hopes of a paffage,
by obfcrving a ftrong current rufhing in between two
l.inds to the weftward, which they were very dcfirous
of approaching, but the wind blew diredlly againft
ihem.
On the 6th, returning to their former flation, five of
the caw tell into an ambulcade i for having ventured
on fliore unarmed in their boat, they were fuddenly
allaiilccd from the wooils, two of them killed upon the
(\HH, two gricvoufly woundcil, and the fifth made his
cfcapc by fwimming, with an arrow flicking in his arm.
The fame evening a furious ftorm arofe, which lafted
till the loth, in which time they in a manner unrigj-ed
t'licir Ihip, and were about to cut away her marts by the
bond, the cable of their (licet anchor parted, and they
cvci\ nicmcnt expected to be dalhcd upon the rock.s,
and to be made a prey by the fav.igc cannilnis of the
CO iiitry ; but the ftorm abating, and the fea growing
ralni. they recovered their anchor on the nth, and
nude fail for England.
About the beginning of Odober they arrived at
Dartmouth, where thfv found the Sunfliine, but the
North Star having parted company in a hard gale
on the; coaft ot Greenland, was never more heard of.
This iindaimted mariner had yet the courage to un-
dertake a third voyage, and then failed as tar as the
7jrddcj;ree of north latitude, but being dcferted by
his companions, wa< forced to return in great diftrefs
10 his old port. Upon his return he wrote a letter
to his patron, afluriiig him, that he had found an open
fea in latitude 7 < deg. N. and a llrait 40 leagues broad,
and concluded from thence that the paffage was moft
certain.
I'romthis period till the year 1610, we find no farther
attempts made to revive this difcovery ; but in that
y.ar Mr. Henry Hudfon, one of the moft celebrated
mariners of his lime, was prevailed upon to undertake
a voyage that was purpofcly fet on foot to make trial
of his (kill. He failed April the 7th, 1610, fteering
direiitly to Davis's Strait:, he there changed his couric
to thc,vilh\ ard, aod ftruck out a new track that no
mariner had ever failed before, which led him through
the ftrait that ftill bears his name into the great bay
that bounds the American continent on the N. E.
and fceins to communicate by various openings with
the north fea. Here he continued traverfing for
almoft three months in fearch of a paffage to the weft-
ward, but finding himfelf embayed, he ftood to the
fouth, intending to winter in the mildeft latitude the
buy would admit; accordingly, he is faid to have
wintered in latitude 51 dcg. N. longitude 80 deg. W.
•where on the ift of November his (liip was frozen in,
and being (cantily provided w ith provifions, the crew
■mutinied, and in the end moft barbaroudy contrived,
as the w liter cxpreffcs it, to turn the Captain, the car-
-pcnter, al)d all the fick men out of the Inip, who were
■never more heard of. After which the leaders of the
4iuitiny tkterminedto-make the beft of their way for
iinglandj but in their paffage home not a few pc-
ri(h?il( and thofc who furvivcd fuffered unfpeakable
niifciy.
" but notnith^anding this dilader, and that it was
*. . a
certainly known that the Captain and all who were left
behind were cither drowned, ftarved, or murdcretl, the
ppogrefs he had made in the difcovery erurouiaged
others to follow his track.
The next w ho adventured was Captain Button, a man
of creat abilities, courage, and experience. Patronized
by^^enry, Prince of Wales, he failed in 161 1, and
having paffed Hudfon's Straits, purfued a different
track from that of Captain Hudfon, leaving his dif-
coveries to the fouth, and fhapins his courfe to the
N. W,
After failing more then joo leagues, he fell in with
a large continent, which, from its mountainous appear-
ance, he named New Wales ; but finding no pafmge to
the weflward, he followed the diredtion of the land to
the fouthward, till he arrived at Port Nelfon, where he
wintered in 63 deg. 30 min. N. but, though he kept
three fires in his (hip conftantly burning, and his com.
pany killed incredible numbers of white partridges and
other wild fow 1, yet many of his men pcrifhed dv the
fcverity of the cold, which in that climate was almofl
infupportable.
In 1615, Captain William Baflin undertook the ex-
amination of the extremity of that fea into which
Davis's Straits opened a paffage, aiid he fo far fuc-
ccedcd, as to determine its extent, and to difcover an
outlet marked in our maps, by the name of Sir Thomas
Smith's Sound, which is probably the only communi-
cation between our northern bays and the great pacific
ocean, which nature has provided, in order to maintain
a general circulation, without which it is hardly pof-
fibfe to conceive, that the equipoifc of the globe could
for a moment be prefervcd.
In 1619 Captain John \fonk, at the inftanccof his
Danilh Majefty, undertcok this difcovery, and arrived
fafe at Cape Farewell, where though the tackle of the
(hip was fo frozen and full of ificlcs, that the niarinera
could not handle the ropes, yet next day it was fo hot,
that they were forced to work in their (hirts. He
entered Hudfon's Strait in the month of July, and waa
forced to winter in latitude 63 deg. 20 min. N. on an
ifland that ftill retains his name; but the hardfhips ha
endured almoft exceeded belief. In May 1620, he
found himfelf alone in a cave dug in the earth, fcarco
alive, and almoft morally certain, that all his mariners
were dead. As foon as the weather would permit he
crawled forth, and found, of all his crew, only two left.
By removing the fnow, they found fome frefh herlM
underneath, and by eating them, recovered from the
lirurvy. Unable to navigate their fhips, they abandon-
ed her to the favages, and, by a wonderful Providence,
got fafe to Norway in the pinnace. Being a man of
uncommon refolution, he was ftill folicitous to pcrfedt
a difcovery, w hieh had baffled the refearches of fo many
able navicators, and to acqu're glory, by accomplifliing
that whirli they had failed to attain. He aflerted the
exiftence of fuch a paffapr fo confidently, and laid down
the method of fintling it Co plaufibly, that he had per-
fuaded the merchants of Norway to raife a joint ftock
to defray the expences of a fecond voyage ; but apply-
ing to the King for his pcrmilHon and protcdlion, and
relating to him his own fufferings, and thofc of his
companions in his former voyage, his Majefty told him,
he had alrrtidy been the death of too many of his fub-
jei^s, and wondered at his prefumption to (cek to mur-
der more. To which Monk gave a quick reply, which
provoked the king to ftrike him over his flomach
with his cane. Whether the feverity of the blow,
or the fenfe of the indignity was the occafion, it
not certain ; but he quitted the royal prcfence with
marks of ftrong refentment, and returning to his
chamber, refufed aftiftancc, and three days after
breathed his laft.
Captain Luke Fox and Captain James were the
next who profeffedly engaged in this difcovery ; the
firft in a King's frigate, viduallcd for 1 8 months ;
the other in a fmalf vcffel of 70 tons, built at Brif-
tol on purpo.'e ; viduallcd and equipped by private
adventurers.
Captain
mtirn
were left
Idcrcd, the
Incouiaged
{ton, a man
ratronizcd
|i6ii, and
different
|g his dir.
fc to the
fell in with
piu appcar-
) palTage to
the land to
where he
Ih he kept
his com.
fridges and
hcd by the '
|\vas almoft
k the ex-
nto which
fo far fuc
difcovcr an
>ir Thomas
communi-
reat pacific
o maintain
hardly pof-
{lobe could
lance of his
and arrived
ackle of the
he iharincrs
was fo hot,
fliirts. He
\y, andwai
n. N. on an
lardfhips ho
ly 1620, he
»rth, fcarc*
tiis mariners
i permit he
nly two Icfl.
frefh heriM
[^ from the
cy abandon-
Providence,
ig a man of
8 to pcrfedl
i of fo many
:ompIifliing
affertcd the
d laid down
ie had per-
joint ftock
but apply-
edlion, and
"lofe of his
y told him,
of his fub-
ck to mur-
:ply, which
is (^oniach
the blow,
ccafion, is
;fence with
ng to his
days after
I were the
overyj the
I months;
ilt at Brif-
by private
Captain
For making. D.lJiC ttV E.BHE.S. towards rks^M O EL I H 1? Pi E^ ^. jj^
Captain Fox departed in the fpringof 1631, traced
all the wetlem bays difcovered by former navigators,
examined the wertcrmoll part of Hudfon's Bay, and
returned in dgi. Me piililifccd a pomJabwA »cc0un,t
of his difcoveries, which, however, was never much
regarded. . - , 1
T)nthe jrd*fMa?, \6y; Captain J^mcs fctj Cia
torn ihe Swem's Mouirh, and on ihc «Qth of June
cleared Hudfon's Straits, where he found himfelf lb
pcftercd with broken ice, >u to put it ait of bis power
to profecute his difcoveries to the nbith wcftward, as-
he had intended ; he therefore ordered his matter to
ftcerW. S. W. and on the 27»h of July,after fuftain-
ingmoft dreadful ihocks, found Wihip cnclofcd h,
fa(\ among the ice, that, notwithftanding it blew a hard
gale, and all fails Crt, l\ic ,fttrrcd no mers than if Ihe ,
had been in a dry Bock. It was now that tne min
firft began to murmur, and the Captain himfelf was
not without his fears, left they fhoijd here be frozen
up and obliged to winter in the middle of the fca. By
an obfervation whi^h they made upon the ice, they
found tbar iV^y w'?<"d. They fpoke together, and,
after exchanging mutual civilities, parted.
Ciptain James kept coafting along the (hore to make
difcoveries, and Captain Fox made the beft of his way
for England.
The Captain now began to think of a convenient
place to wmter in. In ttiis attempt they met with fo
many difafters, that at lall'havin^ no hope left, they
began to prepare themfelves to make a good end of a
miTerable life. On ihe 19th they loft their (hallop,
chough lafhed to the (hip by two hawfers, and to their
inexprelTiblc grief their boat was almoft rendered irre-
parable.
Winter now bcga.i to fet in a-pace, the nights long.
the days clofe and fogt^y, the feas rough, and nothing
but f1ioal:i and broken land to navigate. Added to nil
thcfc the men began to lic;kcn, an univerfal dijcdion
\ t