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'i A 1^ U* !• f' P p f: ' "^ ■^. j-#> Elitnburgi) Cabtnrt l^ibrarg— Nets Edition. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE AMD PB00RE8S Of ^mmx^ in \^t ^ntifir d^nu, PROM THE VOTAGE OP MAORrLAN TO THrE DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK. " Wh»» peiili dare him r not the mighty deep TV'ith all iti pMiopljr of rave* and stonni! Kot the round world itself, itith northern ice And tnrriil lonri, and touthem ice again ! Man has dared all, that, liko th« Ariel (pilte. He girdlet round the world." LONDON: T. NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTEB BOWi AMD EDINBURGH. MOCCCLIL Win) PREFACE. The object of the present Work is to give a compre- hensive History of the yarious Circnmnavigations of the Globe, and to describe at the same time the Progress of Discovery in Polynesia. The innumerable islands which are scattered over the vast expanse of the Pacific, have in all times excited the liveliest regard. In few regions of the earth does Nature present a more fascinating aspect, or lavish her gifts with more bountiful profusion. Favoured by mild and serene skies, the fertile soil of these insular terri- tories produces the most luxuriant vegetation, which, with its many rich and varied hues, clothes the whole land from the margin of the sea to the summits of the loftiest mountains. As the voyager soils along their picturesque shores, he is refreshed by perfumes borne on the breeze, from woods which at the same time display the bud, the blossom, and the mature fruit. Nor is the character of their inhabitants less cal- culated to inspire interest. In countries where the bread-tree affords ** the unreaped harvest of unfurrowed 2601^1 PREFACE. J tielfls," where the people neither plough nor sow, nor do any work, their first visiters believed that they had at length discovered the hnpj>y region with which poets ndorned the golden nge. To later explorers, as has been rrniarked by Humboldt, " the state of half-civilisation in which these isljuulers are found gives a peculiar '' charm to the description of their manners. Here a king', followed by a numerous suite, comes and presents the productions of his orchard ; there the funeral-festi- val embrowns the shade of the lofty forest. Such pic- tures have more attniction liian those which portray the solemn e^ravity of the inhabitants of the Missouri or the Maranon." In every compendium of voyages, from the days of Purclias downwards, a prominent place has been as- signed to the discoveries and exploits of those navigators whose course has led them to encompass the world, — whether in search of imaginary continents, in quest of warlike adventure, or in the peaceful pursuit of scien- tific knowledge. But the manner in which the History of Circumnavigation is given in most of the works al- luded to, tends to repel mther than to invite the attention of the common reader. In the imperfect abridgments which have from time to time appeared, no endeavour is made to supply the deficiencies or to illustrate the obscurities of the original narrative oy the light of more recent discovery. The mind is wearied by innu- merable repetitions, and perplexed by irreconcilable discrepancies. The vast extent, too, of some collections cannot fail to deter a majority of inquirei-s : in one of PREFACE. which (Bil)liotheque Uiiiversjille uos Voyages par M. Albert Montcfmont, in-8^ Piuis, 1033-1836), the "Voy- ages autour (lu Monde" occupy about twenty volumes. The excellent work of the late Admiral Burney may be said to be almost the only one in which an attempt has been made to digest this nr.ass of crude materials in a methodical and connected narrative, possessing the advantages of jterspicuous arrangement, and elucidated by the investigations of rece\!. navigatoiu. Of the " Chronological History of tic Discoveries in the South Sea" every one must speak witii respect, as of a book distinguished by great erudition and by laborious re- search. It chiefly addresses itself, however, to the pro- fessional and scientific student ; and is, indeed, obviously rendered unfit for g.neral p.-rusal by the copiousness and minuteness of its technical details. Though bring- ing down the annals of maritime enterprise no farther than to the commencement of the reign of George III., it occupies five volumes in quarto, — leaving the history of the short period comprehended between that epoch and the death of Cook (undoubtedly the most mterest- ing of the whole) to be pursued in works extending to more than three times the same amount. Nor must it be overlooked, that however excellent the performance of Admiral Burney may have been in its own day, it has now become in some measure antiquated) from the great accessions which geographical science has received since his work was submitted to the public. To our knowledge of the Archipelago of Tonga and Feejee, great contributions have been lately made by 8 PREFACE. lC Mariner and D'Urville. Otahcite and the Society Islands have been elucidated with singular fidelity by the Reverend Mr Ellis, as well as by Messrs Bennet and Tyernian. The labours of the gentlemen just nsmed, with those of the American missionary, Mr Stewart, of the officers of H. M. S. the Blonde, and of MM. Morineau and Botta, have greatly enlarged our acquaintance wit'i the Sandwich group. Much light has been thrown on New Zealand by the writings of Cruise, Rutherford, Yate, Earle, D'Urville, and the contributors to the Missionary Register. The Ladrone or Marian Islands, the Navigators', and the vast range of the Carolines, have been for the first time satisfac- torily illustrated by the inquiries of Freycinet and Kotzebue. The voyager last mentioned, as also his countryman Billinghausen, M. Duperrey, and Captain Beechey, have completed the discovery of the Low or Coral Archipelago ; and the researches of Dillon and of D'Urville have supplied much valuable information on the state and productions of the New Hebrides. In preparing this volume, the greatest pams have been taken to turn to advantage the important investi- gations of the writers just named ; and while much interesting matter has been derived from the collections of Debrosses, Dalrymple, and Burney, the work, it is hoped, will afford evidence that in no Instance where they were accessible have the original authorities been neglected. For some valuable information embodied in the ac- count of Cook's Voyages, which occupies so considerable PREFACE. 9 a portion of these pages, the Publishers have been indebted to the relatives of his family. By the kind- ness of the late Mr Isaac Cragg-Smith, they were fur- nished with the original manuscript of the great voyager's Observations of the Transit of Venus, and a fac-simile of tills interesting relic accompanies the book. It may also be stated, that the Portrait (engraved by Hoi-sburgh after Dance) which is prefixed to the work was pro- nounced by Mrs Cook — now no more — to be the most accurate of all the likenesses of her illustrious husband. The scenery of the different countries visited by that eminent seaman, the appearance of the natives, as well as their dress and arms, are successfully illustrated by numerous beautiful engravings from the able hand of Mr Jackson. The present volume comprises the History of Circum- navigation from Magellan to Cook, — a period of more than two centuries and a half, — and details the proceed- ings of those navigators who effected discoveries in the Pacific during the same time. It will be followed by a second, bringing down the narrative to the present day ; exhibiting a copious view of the recent French, Russian, and German voyages, hithei-to but little known in this country. The achievements of three circumnavigators, — Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier, — seemed to deserve a more minute description than was compatible with the design of this Work, and an early Number of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library was devoted to an account of their lives and actions. To the former impressions of that 10 PREFACE. volume waa prefixed a brief notice of some of the firat discoveries in the South Sea, which, as it is rendered superfluous by the more ample details now given, has been withdrawn in order to make way for several in- teresting facts and illustrations, derived from various books that have appeared m Great Britain and ou the Continent since it was originally is<'ued. EniKBrncH, June 1. liA>\ 'i'l rONTENTS CHAPTFJl 4. DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA — 1618. Gco^^raphical Kiiowledjje of the Ancients — Their I^rnorance of a Sea to (he East of China — First «een by Marco Polo <1271- 1295)— Projfress of Modern Discoivery — Columbus (1492)— Pa- pal Bull of Partition (I494j— Cabral ( 1 5(«))— Cabot (1497-16 17) Cortereal (1500j— Pinzon (1600)— Vasco Nunez ie Balboa hears of the South Sea — Its Discovery (26th Sept. 15Id}j. .Pa^e 17 CHAPTER II. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN— 1519-1522. Magellan's Birth and Services — Proposals to the Spanish Court ac- cepted—Sails on his Voyajfe (20th Sept. 1619 - Anchors at Port San Julian — Transactions there — Description of the Natives — Discovers the Strait (21st October 1520}— Enters the South Sea (28th November) — The Unfortunate Islands — The Ladrones (0th March 1521) — The Island of Mazaj;uaor Limasava— Ztbu — Intercourse with the Natives — Death of Ma^llan (27th April) — His Character —Fleet proceeds to Borneo — Arrives at Tidore — The Ship Vitoria reaches Spain (f>Ui Sept. 1622)— Fate of the Trinidad— Results of the Expedition,.. «)3 CHAPTER III. DISCOVERIES AND CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY— 1622-16()Ul Expedition of l.oyasa (1526)— Discovery of Papua or New Guine<( (1526)- Voyages of Saavedra (1627-1529)— Of Villalobos (1C42) 12 CONTENTS. — Of Legaspi (1564)— Of Juan Fernandez (1563-1574)— Expe- dition of Mendana, and Discovery of the Solomon Islands (1567) — John Oxenharo, the first Englishman that sailed on the Pacific (1675)— Circiimnavijration of Sir Francis Drake (1577-1580)— Expedition of Sarmiento (157U) — Circnranavij^tion of Cavendish (1586-1588)— His Second Voyage ( 1591)— The Falkland Islands discovered (1592)— Expedition of Sir Richard Hawkins (1593) — Second Voyage of Mendana (1595) — The Marquesas— Santa Cruz — Expedition of five Dutch Vessels (1598) — Circumnaviga- tion of V .n Noort a598-l601)_Retrospect, Page 62 CHAPTER IV. CIUCUMNAVIGATICNS AND DISCOVERIES OF THE SEVEN- TEENTH CENTURY— 1600-1/00. Voyage of Quiros (1605-1606) — La Sagitaria — Australia del Es- piritu Santo — Luis Vaez de Torres discovers the Strait bptween New Holland and New Guinea (1606) — Circuranavii^jition of ipilbergen (1614-1617)— Of Schouten and Le Maire (1615-1617) — Discovery of Staten Land and Cape Horn — Cocos, Good Hope, and Horn Islands^New Ireland — Expedition of the Nodals (1618)_DiscoveryofNew Holland by DirckHatichs(16l6)-Cir- cumnavigation of the Nassau Fleet (1623-1626) —Voyage of Tasman (1642)— Discovery of Van Diemen's Land, of New Zea- land, and the Friendly Islands — Voyages of Hendrick Brower (1642) and La RiKhe (1675) — Expeditions of the Buccaneers (1683-1691)— Discovery of Davis' or Easter Island (1687)— Voyage of Strong, and Discovery of Falkland Sound (1690) — Retrospect^ 91 CHAPTER V. CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS FROM THE BEOINNINO OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO THE REIGN OF GEORGE III. —1700-1761, Circumnavigation of Dampier and Funnel (1703-1706), of Woodes Rogers (1788-1711), of Clipperton and Shelvocke (1719-1722), of Roggewein (17'?1-1723) — Easter Island— Pernicious Islands — Circumnavigation of Anson (1740-1744) — Objects of the Ex- pedition — Passage of Cape Horn — Severe SuflFerings of the Crew — Juan Fernandez — Cruise oa the American Coasts — Burning t. CONTENTS. 19 of Payta— Loss of tlie Gloucester — Tinian — Capture of the Ma- nilla Galleon — Return of the Centurion to England — Fate of the Wager, Page ^^ CHAPTER VI. CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OF BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET— 17t)4-17«>y. Voyapre >( Byron (1764.17«6)— Its Objects— Vain Search for Pepys' Island — Discovery of the Islands of Disap|H)intment, King George, Prince of Wales, Danger, and Diike of York — Circum- navigations of Wallis and Carteret (1766-I76y) — Their Sepa- rati«)n (1767) — Wallis discovers the Islands of Whitsunday, Queen Charlotte, Egmont, Cumberland, and Osnaburg — Arrives at Otaheite— Transactions there — Sails for Tinian — Anchors in the Downs (17^58) — Carteret discovers Pitcairn's Island (1767) —Santa Cruz or Queen Charlotte's Islands — The Solomons- St George's Channel and New Ireland — New Hanover— Arrives at Spithead (1760), 167 CHAPTER VII. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE— 1766-1769. Project for colonising the Falkland Islands (1763) — Their Cession to Spain (1767)- Disputes with England (1769-1771)— Settle- ments abandoned (177'<2) — Bougainville discovers the Dangerous Archipelago (1768) — Maitea — Otaheite — Incidents during his Stay there — Takes a Native with him — The Grand Cyclades or Australia del Espiritu Santo — Louisiade or the Solomons — Bouca — Choiseul and Bougainville Islands— Return to France (1769) — The Otaheitan in Paris — Voyage of Marion (1771)— Expedi- tion of Surville (17''9)— Terre des Arsacides — Voyage of Short- land (1788)— New Georgia— Retrospect, 209 CHAPTER VIII. LIFE OF COOK PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE— 1728-1768. Birth and Parentage of Cook— His Education— His Indentures with a Draper — Apprenticeship on board a CoUier — Volunteers into tlie Navy (1755)— Appointed Master of the Mercury (1769) 14 C0NTKNT8. — Hi"4 Services atQuebec- Hairbreadth Kficape — He first stixliea Euclid — His Marriaji^e (17fi2)— Made Muiine Surveyor of New» iuiindland and Labrador (17'»4) — ConHniinicates a» Observation ot* nn Eclipse to the iJojal Society (17W7) — History <»fthe Transits of Venus — Predicted in 1629 by Kepler — Discovery and Obser vation of Hnrrox (1039) First Appreciation of its Uses — Pro- fessor James Grejrory (1663) — Dr Edmund Halley (1677-1716) — His Exhortation to future Astronomers — Transit of 1761 — Preparations for that of 1769 — Pro|)osai to send a Ship with Oi)server8 to the South Sea -Cook promoted to the Hank of Lieu- tenant, and appointed to conduct it (2dtii May 1766) — His Choice of a Vessel — Sir Joseph Banks determines to join the Ex{>edi- tioD — Prt^paratioos and Instructions lur tlie Voya^^e^ . Pay;e 241 CHAPTER IX FinST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF CoOK— 176lM77i' Dcfmrture (26th August 1766) — Adventtiro on Tierra del Fuey;o (16th January 1/69) — Discovery of La(^..on, Thrum Cap, Bow) The Groups, and Cliain Islands — Arrival at Otabeite — Observa- tion of the Transit and Incidents dining their Stay — Discovery of the Islands of Tcthuroa, Hiiabcine, Uliatea, Otalia, Tuba;., Bolabola, Maurua, and Gheteroa— Makes the I'-ast Coast of New Zealand (7th August) — Affrays with the Natives— Doubles the North Ca]ie — Discovers Cook's Straits, and circumnavigates the Islands — Sails for the East Coast <if New Holland — Discovery of New South Wales (19th April IJJO)— Botiiny Bay—Inter- course with the Natives — Port Jackson— Dangerous Position of the Ship— Reaches the most northerly Point of Australia — Re- discovery of Torres' Strait — New Guinea — Timor — Batavia — Mortality among the Crew — Arrivid in England (12th June 1771), 257 CHAPTER X. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK— 1772-1775. Objects of the Voj'age — Departure (I3th July 1772) — Search for Bouvet's Land — The Southern Continent - Aurora Australia — Arrival at New Zealand — Visit to the Low Archipelago — Otabdte — Huaheine — Ulietea— Re-discovery of the Tonga or Friendly Islands — Second Visit to New Zealand — Separation of tlie Ships — Search fur Uie Terra Australia lesuroed — Highes* CONTENTS. 15 South Latitude attained (liOth January 1774)— Dangerous Ill- ness of Cook— Easter Island Las Maniuesas —The Society Isl- ands—The Ton^ra Islands— New Hebrides— Disrovery of New Caledonia— Norfolk Island— Third Visit to New Zealand— Run across the Pacific- Survey of Tierra del Fueiro and Staten Land Discovery of New South Georgia and San;iwich Land — Hettirn to the Cape of Good IIo|)e— Adventures of Captain Furneaux— Conclusion of the Voyajfe (IJOtli July 177''i) — Honours paid to C»H)k His nariative of the Expedition— Oinai in Enjfland,..PH{,'e 204 CHAPTER XL cook's THIRD VOYAGE— 177fiI75{l'« Oltjects of the Expedition— Departure (12th July 177fi)— Ker- jruelen's or Desolation Island—Van Diomen's Land — New Zealand — Mauj^oea, Wenooa-ette and Wateeoo — Piihuerston IslanrI — Trai'sactions at the Friendly Islands — the Society Isl- ands -Otaheite — Eimeo—Huaheine— Settlement of Omai there, and Notice of his Life — Ulictoa- Bohibola — Cook sails north- ward—Christmas Island — Discovers the Sandwich Archipelajjo (IHth January 177'!)— Mi'kes the Coast of New Albion — Nootka Sound - ('ook's Hiver — Behriufr's Slrait-Icy Ca|)e — Proirress to the North arrested — Revisits the Sandwich Islands — Reception by the Natives— Cook is worshipped as their God Orono — Sails from Karakaooa Ray, but is obli)^edto return to it — Hostile Disposition of the Natives — The Discovery's Ciitter is stolen— Cook goes on Shore to recover it -Interview with the Kinjr— A Chief slain — Attack by the Natives — Death of Cook I4th February 1779)— Recovery and Burial of Part of his Re- mains — The Voyaj^e is r(>sumed — Death of Captain Clerke — The Ships reach China — Fur-trade — Arrival in England (4th OctolHjr 1700), 341 CHAPTER Xn. OBSEHVATIONS ON THE CHAUACTEtt OF COOK. Honours paid to him — Personal Appearance — Temper and Habits — His Children and Widow — Energy and Perseverance — Self- education — His vast Contributions to Geography — Skill in deli- neating and fixing his Discoveries — Discovery of the Means of preser'^ing the Health of Seamen — Advantages derived from his Voyages —Progress of Civilisation u. Polynesia — Conclusion..4l0 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE. CHAPTER I. Discovery of the South Sea, Ge<^japhical Knowledge of the Ancients — Their Ignorance of a Sea to the East of China — First seen by Marco Polo — Progress of Modern Discovery — Columbus— Papal Bull of Partition — Cabral — Cabot— Cortereal — Pinzon — Vasco Nunez de Balboa hears of the South Sea — Its Discovery. • The existence of the vast ocean which separates the con- chap. i. tinents of Asia and America was never imagined by the , , — r., . 11, '^eas of the ancients ; nor, indeed, do they appear to have had any ancients. certain knowledge that Asia on the east was bounded by the sea. Homer had figured the world as a circle begirt by Homer. " the great strength of ocean," and this belief in a cir- cumambient flood long continued to prevail. It was implicitly received b^ many geographers, and, being carried onwards with the advance of science, was from time to time reconciled to the varying theories and con- jectures of the increased knowledge of succeeding ages. discovehy op the south sea. Supposed fiieircling lh>\% of Aristotle, S«ncca, iind Hcrodolua. CHAP. 1. Thus, long after the spherical form of the earth was tauQ;ht, the existence of its ocean-jfirdlc was credited ; and in the geoffraphical systems of Eratosthenes, Straho, Mela, and others, the waters of the Atlantic were de- picted as lavinjj^ on the one hand the shores of Europe, and encirclintj on the other the inystcrious regions of Scythia and India. Nay, so fur had the speculations of philosophy outstripped the rude navigjition of the times, that the possibility of crossing this unknown ocean was more than once contemplated. Having formed an esti- mate of the circumference of the globe, Aristotle con- ceived that the distance between the pillars of Hercules and India must he small, and timt a communication might be effected between them. Seneca with more con- fidence affirmed, that with a fair wind a ship would sail from Spain to the Indies in a few days. But these notions were far from beiiig universally received. Herodotus had early denied the existence of this circle of waters ; and those who maintained the affirmative, reasoned on grounds manifestly hypothetical, and beyond the narrow limits of their knowledge. Of the northern countries of Asia they knvw nothinu:, nor were they acquainted with the extensive regions beyond the Gni,i.';es, — a vast space that they filled wiCh their Ejistern Sea, which thus com- menced whirc their information stopped, and all beyond was dark. The progress of discovery at length brought to light the existence of lands in those portions of the globe supposed to be covered by the ocean ; but, proceed- ing with undue haste, it was next imagined that Asia extended eastwards in an indefinite expanse. It was figured thus by Ptolemy, the last and greatest of the ancient geographers. He removed from his map the Atlanticum Mare Orientale (the eastern Atlantic), which had so long marked the confines of geographical research, and exhibited the continent as stretching far beyond the limits previously assigned to it. His know- ledge did not enable him to delineate its eastern ex- tremity, or the ocean beyond : he was therefore induced to terminate it by a boundary of " land unknown." PmCTCss of discovery. rioV-niy. r DISCOVBllY OP THE SOUTH SEA. 10 With Ptolemy ceased not only the advance of science, chap, l but even the memory of almost all that had been former- Decline of ly known. The long night which succeeded the decline S?""*' of the Roman empire was now closing in, and a dreary space intervened before its shadows were dispelled by the dawn of a brighter day than the world had yet witnessed. The first gleam of light came from the East, where Arftbian the Arabs i>ursued the stndy of geography with the 6wugr»»i' >»-'»3. utmost ardour. Their systems again revived the belief in a circumambient ocean, which bound the earth like a zone, and in which the world floated like an egg in a basin. That portion of this belt of waters which was imagined to flow round the north-eastern shores of Asia, they called by the name of "The Sea of Pitchy Dark- ness." The Atlantic had by the Greeks been regarded The Atinntie as a fairy scene, where the Islands of the Blest were j)luccd, in which, under calm skies, suiTounded by un- ruflled seas and amid groves of the sweetest odour, the favoured of the gods enjoyed everlasting peace and happiness. This fable found no place among the Arabs, who bestowed on that ocean the name of " The Sea of Darkness," and filled their imaginations with appalling pictures of its storms and dangers. Xerif al Edrisi, one ^oHfai of the most eminent of their geographers, who wrote about the middle of the twelfth century, observes, — ** No one has been able to verify any thing concerning it, on account of its difficult and perilous navigation, its great obscurity, its profound depth and fnquent tem- pests ; through fear of its mighty fishes and its haughty winds ; yet there are many islands in it, some peopled, others uninhabited. There is no mariner who dares to enter into its deep waters ; or, if any have clone so, they have merely kept along its coasts, fearful of departing from them. The waves of this ocean, although they roll as high as mountains, yet maintain themselves with- out breaking ; for if they broke, it would lie impossible for a ship to plough them." But the mystery of this " Sea of Pitchy Darkness " was 20 DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SUA. CHAP. I. Murco Polo. Tlie court of Kublui Kliaiv Islands of the Indian Ocuan. ZInnngu or Japan. at length removed. Townrds the end of the thirteenth century, the celehmted Venetian traveller, Marco Polo, succeeded in penetrating across the Asiatic continent, and reached the farthest shores of China. He brought l)ack to Europe tales of orii-ntal pomp and magnificence fur beyond any previous conception. His work exer- cised the greatest influence on the minds of that age, which, prone to belief in marvellous stories, found un- bounded gratification in the glowing descriptions of the "^.vealth of those eastern countries ; the extent and archi- tectural wonders of their cities ; the numbers and glit- tering array of their armies ; and, above all, the incon- ceivable splendour of the court of the great Kublai Khan, his vast palaces, his guards, his gny summer- residences, with their magnificent gardens watered by beautiful streams, and adorned with the fairest fruits and flowers. Among these visions of immeasurable riches, a prominent place was occupied by the sea whicli was found to be the eastern boundary of China. He drew a picture of it, widely differing from the gloom and tempests with which the Arabs had invested its waters. He spoke of its extent, so great, " that, accord- ing to the report of experienced pilots and mariners who frequent it, and to whom the truth must be known, it contains no fewer than seven thousand four hundred and forty islands, mostly inhabited." As to their products, he told that no trees grew there that did not yield a fragrant perfume. He dwelt on the abundance of their spices and drugs, and summed up the whole by declar- ing, that " it v\ as impossible to estimate the value of the gold and other articles found in these islands ! " But all others were outshone by the more lavish splendours of Zipangu, the modern Japan. There, were to be found abundance of precious stones, and large quantities of pearls, some white, and others of a beautiful pink colour. The inhabitants were of a fair complexion, well mp.de, and of civilized mannera. " They have gold," it is said, " in the greatest plenty, its sources being inex- haustible ; but as the king does not allow of its being DISCOVERY OF Tllfi SOUTH SEA. 21 Piilace of the Bovereign of Jupiia. exported, few merchants visit the country, nor is it frc- CllAP. I. quented by much shipping from other parts. To tliis circumstance we are to attribute the extraordinary rich- ness of the sovereign's pulace, according to what we are told by those wlio liave acce&s to tlie place. The entire roof is covered with a plating of goM, in the same man- ner as we cover houses, or more properly churches, with lead. The ceilings of the halls arc of the same l)rccious metal ; many of the apartments have small tables of pure gold, considerably thick ; and the windows altjo have golden ornaments. So vast, indeed," exclaims tlic Venetian, " arc the riches of the palace, that it is impossible to convey an idea of them !"* Marco Polo was careful to explain, that the sea hi which Zipangu and its neiglibouring islands were placed was not a gulf or branch of the ocean, like the English or the Egean Soas, but a large and boundless expanse of waters. Tims early was the Asiatic margin of the South Sea made known ; but more than two centuries elapsed before its opposite boundary was reached, or a Europeon ship was launched upon its waves. The Atlantic shores of Africa were the first scenes rortuKiteso of that career of modern discovery which characterized ^n the^]^fri- thc spirit of the fifteenth century. The main object can coast, wns the circumnavigation of that continent, in order to open a direct path to India, the grand source of com- merce and wealth ; and, under the auspices of Prince Henry of Portugal, this end was pursued with a steadi- ness and perseverance which produced the most important results. There was inspired a confidence, hitheii;o un- felt, in the art of navigation ; its capabilities were much advanced, and the range of its enterprise extended far beyond all previous limits. A passion for maritime adventure was also spread throughout Europe, and men's minds were excited to daring undertakings and bold speculations. Attention was turned to the un- The Travpls of Marco Polo, a Venetian, in tlie Thirteenth cntury, translated from tlie Italian, with Notes by Wiilian Mars* tin, F.U.$. London, lUlii. 4to, p. 561^, et i,eq. C den. ; t CIIaP. I. Influence on Europe. : i ; s I i Columbus. Supposed cir- cuiiiference ot the earth. Departure of Colunibui DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. known waters of the Atlantic, and imagination wantoned in figuring the wealth, the wonders, and the mysteries of the lands that were hidden in its hosom. The fables of antiquity were revived ; the Atalantis of Plato came again to be believed ; and to its classic fictions were added the marvels of many a Gothic and monkish legend, and the visions of splendour st-en in the glory of the setting sun. Yet all these glittering fancies failed to tempt any mra'iner to sail boldly forth into the ocean, and explore the secrets of its depths. At length arose Christopher Columbus, — a man of whom it has l)cen happily remarked, that the nar- rative of his life is the link which connects the history of the Old World with that of the New. From the study of ancient and modern geographers he became convinced of the existence of lands wlrich might be reached by sailing westward. He argued that the eartli was a sphere, and, following Ptolemy, he assigned to it a circumference of twenty-four hours. He esti- mated that fifteen of these were known to the ancient;?, and that what remained to be explored was occupied by the eastern countries of Asia and the sea seen by Marco Polo, which he believed to be identical with the Atlantic. He was therefore firmly assured, that, by proceeding westward across this ocean, he would arrive at the shores of the Asiatic continent and its neighbouring island of Zipangu, of which the glowing description leit by the Venetian traveller seems to have constantly haunted his thoughts. After many years of doubt and disappointment spent in soliciting various princes to engage in the enterprise, he at length set ssiil from Spain on the 3d of August 1492, and the 12th of October following landed on San Salvador, one of the Bahama Islands. After cruis- ing for some time among this cluster, believed by him to be part of the great archii)elago mentioned by Marco Polo, he discovered the island of Cuba, which he con- cluded to be a portion of the continent of Asia. He next visited the beautiful island of Hayti or St Domingo, DISCOVERY OF TOE SOUTH SEA. 23 and, having loaded his vessels with specimens of the CHAP. I. ii)habitants and productions of this new country, re- pigcJJ^y of turned to Europe. In his third voyage, Columbus dis- the continent covered the continent of America, and looked upon it ^ ^^'^^^^ as the Aurea Chersonesus of the ancients, — the penin- sula of Malacca in modern maps. As he sailed along its shores, he received tidings of a great water situated to the soutli, and, conceiving tliat it must be connected with the Gulf of Mexico, determined to search for the strait or channel of communication. His last voyage was dedicated to this fruitless attempt ; and he died in the firm conviction that this southern sea was the Indian Ocean, and that the land" he had visited be- longed to the eastern boundary of Asia. How very far did he under-estimate the grandeur of his acliievemcnts ! He thought that he found but a new path to countries Mi,t„];pri known of old, while he had in truth discovered a con- estimatL' of tinent hitherto uninip.gined, yet rivalling the ancient coveiy. world in extent. Who will not share in the regret which has been so eloquently 'xpressed, that the gloom, the penury, and disappoihtment which overcast his latter years, were visited by none of those bright and consoling l"^pcs which would have flowed from the re- velation of the future glory of " the s])lendid empires which were to spread over the beautiful world he had discovered ; and the nations, and tongues, and languages, wliich were to fill its lands with his renown, and to revere and bless his name to tlie latest posterity ! " * To secure the possession of the vast countries dis- p, , jf^ ^^^ covered by Columbus, the King of Sjjain applied foi tiicNow the sanction of the Pope. Martii. V. and othei |, mtiffb had granted to Portugal all the countries whieli it might discover from Cape Bojador and Cape Nun to the Indies ; and the Portuguese monarch now com- World. * History of tlie Life and Voyages of Cliristoplier Columbus, by Wasliint^ton Irving-, vol. iv. p. 01, — an adniiiahle book, i . wliioh jflustry of rosearcli, elegance and loftiness of tlioiif;lit and diction, liave combined to rear a work, whicli, surpssiny' uli others in the subject, will itself probably' never be surpassed. 24 DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. t \ CHAP. I. plained that his neighhoiir in visiting America had violated the rights conferred on him hy the Holy Father. While this complaint was undergoing investigation, the court of Castile exerted its influence with Pope Alex- ander VI. ; and on the 4th of May 1493, a Bull wa« issued, which most materially influenced the future Niitnrcof the coursc of maritime discovery. By this important docu- Papai Bull, ment, the head of the Catholic Church, " with the plenitude of apostolic power, by the authority of God Omnipotent granted to him through blessed Peter, and of the vicarship of Jesus Christ, which he exercises upon earth," assigned to the Spanish sovereigns " all the islands and main-lands, with all their dominions, cities, castles, places, and towns, and with all their rights, jurisdictions, and appurtenances, di.-covered, and which shall be discovered," to the west of an ideal line drawn from pole to pole, at the distance of a hundred leagues westward of the Azores. Thus did Spain at once ac- quire " an empire far more extensive than that which seven centuries of warfare obtained for the Romans ! " * This munificent grant was accompanied with one im- portant injunction : Alexander adjured the sovereigns ** by the holy obedience which you owe us, that you appoint to the said main-lands and islands upright men and fearing God, learned, skilful, and expert in instruct- ing the foresaid natives and inhabitants in the Catholic faith, and in teaching them good morals, employing for that purpose all requisite diligence." The terrors of Divine wrath were thundered against those who should infringe the papal grant. " Let no person presume with rash boldness to contravene this our donation, decree, inhibition, and will. For if any person pre- sumes to do so, be it known to him that he ill incur Important injunction. • Memoir of Columbus, hy D. G. B. Spotorno, Profpssor of Eloquence in the University of Genoa, published in " Memorials of Columbus, or a Collection of authentic Documents of that cele- brated Navijfator, now first published from the ori|rinal Manu- scripts, by order of the Decurions of Genoa. Translated from the Spiinish and Italian." London, 1823. 8vo. mSCOVERY OP THE SOUTH SEA. 2i"j the indignation of Almighty God, and of the blessed CHAP. I. apostles Peter and Paul." * Even by orthodox princes, cont"^,^ of however, these threatenings were held light. As has the rapui been remarked by Purchas, "the Portugalls regarded '^'*^^" them not ; and not the Bull, but other compromise stayed them from open hostilitie." By an agreement between the two nations of the Peninsula, concluded in ] 494, it was covenanted, that the line of partition describ- ed in the ecclesiastical document should be extended 270 Apreemont leagues farther to the west, and that all beyond this ';i'tweei> l)oundary should belong to Castile, and all to the east- "['ortujlaL ward to Portugal.t Thus their territories were defined with sufficient certainty on one side of the globe ; but the limits on the other were left perfectly vague, and became a fertile subject of dispute. * Tlie original Bull may be consulted in Purchas, vol. i. p. lJi-15. A translation from a copy exhibiting some variations, but i'i no ^eat consequence, is inserted in the " Mi'morials ol' (Colum- bus" above quoted, document xxxvii. p. 17'2-1>!3. This last has been followed in the ({notations given ni the present work. The copy in Purchas is accompanied by a chapter of '' Animadversions on the said Bull of Pope Alexander," which cannot fail to gratify the curious in abuse and invective, in which it will scarcely yield the palm to any of the " Hytings " of our earlier Scottish poets, or to the controversial writings or Scaliger, Milton, or Salmasius. In one sentence Alexander is called " Heire f)f all the Vices of all the Popes," — " the Plague-sore into that Chayre of Pestylence," — "the Alonster of Men, or indeed rather an incarnate J)evill," — so necessary did Purchas consider it " not to suffer this Bull to passe unbaited !" f This agreement (sometimes called the treaty of Tordesillas) was concluded on 7th June, but was not subscribed by Ferdinand till 2d July 14y;{, and by John not till 27th February 1494. It was confirmed by a Bull in 15U6. The late Adnural Burney, whose work we will have occasion so often to mention with re-ipect," writes of this agreement, — '• At the instance of the Portuguese, with the cou- M-'Ht of the Pojie, in I4ij4 tiie line of )>artition was by agreement removed 270 leagues more to the west, tfiat it niu/ht accord with their possensions in the Brazils." — Chronological History of the Discoveries in the South Sea, vol i. p. 4. It is impossible to admit the existence of the motive here assigned ; for Brazil was not discovered by Cabral until six years after the date of the agree, men t— Purchas, vol. i. p. 30. Robertson's Hist, of America, book ii. Irving's Columbus, iii. 147, and authorities there quoted. — It is proper to mention that Burney is by no means singulai in Uiis mistake. 26 DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. CHAP. I. Passage of tlie Cape of Cuod Hope. Brazil. Meantime, the Portuguese had achieved the grand ohject which they had so long laboured to attain. In 1486, Bartholomew Diaz reached the southern extre- mity of Afi'ica, which he named the Cape of Storms ; but the Portuguese monarch gave it the more auspicious title of Good Hope. Eleven years after, Vasco de Gama doubled tliis dreaded promontory, and conducted a fleet to the rich shores of India, — an event which was destined to exercise on the career of American discovery more than an indirect influence, powerful as that was. The vast treasures which Portugal drew from countries where the harvest of the adventurer was prepared before he visited the field, mightily inflamed the avidity of Spain, and breathed a new spirit of ardour into her enterprises. Nor did the former kingdom fail to contri- bute her exertions towards extending the knowledge of Discovery of *'^® *^^^ continent. In the year 1500, the second expe- dition which was fitted out for India, under the com- mand of Pedro Alvarez de Cubral, standing westward to clear the shores of Africa, discoverc'l the coast of Brazil, and took possession of it in name of the Portuguese crown. It has been well observed by an eminent writer on this subject, " that Columbus' discovery of the New World was the effort of an active genius, enlightened by science, guided by experience, and acting upon a regular plan, executed with no less courage than pt•^^e(U)ytilis perseverance. But from this adventure of the Portu- discovery. guese, it appears that chance might have accomplished that great design which it is now the pride of human reason to have formed and perfected. If the sagacity of Columbus had not conducted mankind to America, Cabral, by a fortunate accident, might have led them a few years later to the knowledge of that extensive con- tinent." * * Uobert.son'.s Historj' of" America, book ii. Care must be taken not to overvalue tlie merits of Cabral. It sboiild be recollected that his discovery was the result of chance; and farther, that Brazil had been visited some months previously by Diego Lepe, and still earlier by Vicente Yanez Pinzon, who was tlie first to cross the equator in the Atlantic. Ideas su?- DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. 27 We have seen that even Portugal yielded but a chap. i. scanty deference to the right which the Pope had EnEiisiT usurped of bestowing the world at his will ; and Eng- adventure. land was still less inclined to acquiesce in such an assumption of power. So early as 1497, an armament sailed from this country, conducted, under letters-patent from Henry VII., by John Cabot, a native of Venice settled at Bristol, and by his three sons, Louis, Sebastian, and Sanchez.* The object appears to have been to find a western passage northwards of the new Spanish dis- coveries, and by this route to reach India. In prosecu- voynpc of tion of this great scheme, Cabot, on the 24th of June Joim Cabot. 1497, approached the American continent, probably at Newfoundland ; and his son Sebastian, in two successive voyages, performed in 1498 and 1617, explored a large extent of the coast, from Hudson's Bay on the north as far as Florida on the south. Although unsuccessful in the attainment of their immediate purpose, these expe- ditions have justly entitled the English to the high distinction of being the first discoverers of the mainland of America, — Columbus not having seen any part of it Discovery of till the 1st of August 1498. In 1500, three years after tiieinainiiina the first voyage of Cabot, Caspar Cortereal, a Portuguese gentleman, under the sanction of King Emanuel, pur- sued the track of the Cabots with the same views. Sailing along the east coast of Newfoundland, he reached the northern extremity of that island, and entered the mouth of the St Lawrence, which, with no small show of proluibility, he concluded to be the open' ng into the west that he was seeking. He proceeded a) jo along the coast of Labrador, and appears to have advanced nearly as far as to Hudson's Bay. * A late acute writer has started a question as to the compara- tive ajjency of John and Sebastian Cabot. (Memoir of Sebastian Cabot. London, 1831 ; p. 42, et sen.) This point lias been amply considered in a previous volume of this Library, to which reference is made for a minute relation of the discoveries of the Cabots. — His- iorical View of the Progress of Discovery on the more Northern Coasts of America, eliap. i., and Append* x. Edinburgh Cabinet Library, No. IX. 28 DISCOVERY OP THE SOUTH SEA. CHAP. I Zeal nnd nctivity of Nntional entlinsiusm excUed. i \ Spanish Aoyiigerat While England and Portugal were thus examining the coasts of the New World, Spain, which had first opened the path, pursued it with unabated zeal and activity. The peculiar circumstances of that country afforded much encouragement to the spirit of adventure. The long war she had waged with the Moors, and the high and romantic feelings wliich animated that contest, fostered a strong desire of excitement, and an ardent love of enterprise, which found in the regions discovered by Columbus an ample and inexhaustible field. " Chi- valry left the land and launched upon the deep ; the Spanish cavalier embarke<l in the caravel of the disco- verer." Year after year her ports poured forth fresh expeditions, while national enthusiasm was almost daily excited by rumours of new countries far richer and more fertile than any previously known. The details of these navigations, however, more properly belong to another work ; and it will be sufficient in this place briefly to allude to their chief results. In 1500, Rodrigo de Bastides explored the northern coast of Tierra Firmn, from the Gulf of Daricn to Cape de Vela, from about the 73d to the 79th degree of west longitude. In thu same year, Vicente Yanez Pinzon doubled Cape Sin Augustine, discovered the Maragnon or River of Ama- zons, and sailed northward along the coast to the island of Trinidad. The same active voyager engaged in several other expeditions ; and in one of these, in which he was accompanied by Diaz de Solis, made known to Europeans the province of Yucatan. Almost contem- poraneously with the first voyage of Pinzon, his towns- man, Diego Lcpe, pursuing nearly the same path, added largely to the knowledge of the coasts of Brazil. In 1612, Juan Ponce de Leon set sail in quest of the fabled island of Bimini, where flowed the miraculous Fountain of Youth, whose waters were of such wonderful power that whosoever bathed in them was restored to the vigour of early manhood. Though this fairy region was in vain sought for, the important discovery of the blooming coast of Florida was achieved. DISCOVERY OP THE SOUTH SEA. 20 imcz In the succeeding year, 1513, the Spaniards at lenc^th cilAF. I. nachcd that ocean of which they had heard many vague — rumours from the natives of Tierra Firma. The honour of this discovery is due to Vasco Nunez de Balboa, av^senx man sprung from a decayed family, and who, first '« i^«ii>""- appearing in the New World as a mere soldier of for- tune, of dissolute habits and of desperate hopes, had, b / courage and intrigue, raised himself to the government of a small colony established at Santa Maria in Darien. In one of his forays against the native inhabitants, when in this command, he procured a large quantity of gold. While he was dividing the treasure among his followers, ni^povny much disputing took place in the presence of a young di goui cacique, who, disdaining brawls for what seemed to him bo mean an object, struck the scales with his hand, and scattered the gold on the ground, exclaiming, " Why should yon quarrel for such a trifle \ If this gold is indeed so precious in your eyes, that for it you forsake your homes, invade the peaceful lands of strangers, and expose yourselves to such sufferings and perils, I will tell you of a province where you may gratify your wishes to the utmost. Behold those lofty mountains !" ho said, pointing to the south, " beyond these lies a mighty sea, which may be discerned from their summit. It is navigated by people who have vessels not much less than yours, and furnished like them with sails and ofirs. All the streams which flow down the southern side of those mountains into that sea abound in gold ; and the kings who reign upon its borders eat and drink out of golden vessels. Gold is as plentiful and common among these people of the south as iron is among you Spaniards." From the moment in which he heard this intelligence, ^ew object the mind of Vasco Nunez became occupied with this ofanibitiou one object, and he steadfastly devoted all his thoughts and actions to the discovery of the southern sea indicated by this chief. Many difficulties, however, retarded the undertaking, and it was not till the 1st of September 1613 that he stt forth, accompanied by no more than a hundred and ninety soldiers. After incredible toil ii DISCOVERY OP THE SOUTH SEA. CHAP. I. Discovery oi tlie Pacific Ucuun. Pcliffions c'litliusiasm and avarice. Bay of San Miguel. marching through hostile trihcs, he at length approached the base of the last ridge he had to climb, and rested there for the night. On the 26th of September, witli the first glimmering of light, he commenced the ascent, and by ten o'clock had reached the brow of the moun- tain, from the summit of which he was assured he would sec the promised ocean. Here Vasco Nunez made bis followers hjilt, and moimted alone to the bare hill-top. What must have been his emotions when he reached the summit ! Below him extended forests, green fields, and ■winding rivers, and beyond he beheld the South Sen, illuminated by the morning sun. At this glorious sight he fell on his knees, and extending his arms towards the ocean, and weeping for joy, returned thanks to Heaven for being the first P^uropean who had been permitted to behold these long-sought waters. He then made signs to his companions to ascend, and when thoy obtained a view of the magnificent scene, a priest who was among them began to chant the anthem " Te deum laudamus," all the rest knetling and joining in the solemn strain. This burst of jpious enthusiasm is strangely contrasted "with the feelings of avarice to which, even in the mo- ment of exultation, their leader surrendered his mind, Avhen he congratulated them on the prospect " of becom- ing, by the favour of Christ, the richest Spaniards that ever came to the Indies.*' After this he caused a tall tree to be felled, and formed into a cross, which was erected on the spot whence he first beheld the western deep. He then began to descend from the mountains to the shores of the new-found ocean ; and on the 29th of September reached a vast bay, named by him San Miguel, from the festival on which it was discovered. Unfurling a banner, whereon was painted a figure of the Virgin with the arms of Castile at her feet, he marched with his drawn sword in his hand and his buckler on his shoulder knee-deep into the rushing tide, and, in a loud voice, took possession of the sea and of all the shores it washed. He concluded the ceremony by cut- ting with his dagger a cross on a tree that grew in tlio DISCOVERY OP THE SOUTH SKA. 31 water ; and his fonowers, dispersing themselves in the chap t. forest, expressed their devotic hy carving siniihir marks with their weapons. Vasco Nunez then hetook hin)silf "^poi'sof the to pillage : he exacted from the natives contributions in gold and provisions ; and being told of a country to the south, where the people possessed abundance of gold, and used beasts of burden, the rude figure of the lama traced on the beach suggested to him the camel, and confirmed him in the opinion that he had reached " the gates of the East Indies." From the circumstance of Nnmo of the tiie ocean having been first descried from the Isthmus of ""^ "'^'''"'' Darien, which runs nearly east and west, it received the name of the South Sea, — a title which, however accurately applied to the part first seen, is employed with little propriety to designate the M'hole vast expanse of the Pacific. Tidings of this great discovery were imme- diately transmitted to Spain, and received with delight and triumph. But instead of rewarding so important a service, the court despatched a governor to supersede Balboa, who, by the pei-fidy of his successor, was publicly executed in 1617.* Meantime the colony on the Davien continued to ex- Darion tend their knowledge of the western ocean, to make ex- ^"'ouy. cursions in barks, and to form small settlements in the vicinity. Larger vessels were soon const, ctcd ; and violently taking possession of some small islands in the Gulf of San Miguel, which they named the Pearl Islands, the Spaniards extorted from their conquered subjects a large annual tribute drawn from the treasures of the deep. As the hope decayed of finding a passage to India Settlement through a strait in the American continent, the design "'^ i'**"'^""*- Avas formed of establishing a regular intercourse by the Isthmus of Darien ; and a settlement was accordingly fixed at Panama, whence vessels were to visit the eastern * The extraordinary career of Vasco Nunez de Balboa has of ate been invested with a new interest by the elej^ant memoir of Don Manuel Josef Quintana. — an English translation of which, by Mrs Hodson, appeared at Edinburj^h in IU32. 32 DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. CHAP. 1 Cnuscs of failure. Timid navi- iriition of tlie I'ucitic. shores of Asia. This scheme, however, failed of success. Within a month after the ships destined for the voyage liud been launched, their planks were so destroyed by worms as to render them quite useless. No better suc- cess had followed an attempt which was made in 1515 to find an opening into the Austral Ocean, in more southern latitudes. The commander of the expedition, Juan Diaz de Solis, in exploring the country at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, fell into an ambuscade and lost his life. Upon this disaster, the undertaking was abandoned, and the vessels returned to Spain. Such was the knowledge obtained of the South Sea prior to the year 1619. Its waters had indeed been discovered, and the highest hopes formed of its treasures as well as of the rich lands washed by its billows. But all attempts to explore its vast expanse had failed ; and the seamen who boldly crossed the broad Atlantic were content to creep cautiously along the gulfs and creeks of this newly-reached ocean. No strait had yet been found to connect its waves with those of seas already known and navigated ; it seemed to be hemmed in by inaccessible barriers ; and the great continent of America, which had been regarded as a main object of discovery, was now in some degree considered as an obstacle in tlie ^•ath to further enterprise. CmCUMXAVIOATION OF MilOELLAN. 33 CHAPTER II. Ch'cumnaviyation of Mayellan. Maj^ollan's Birth and Services — Proposals to tlie Spanish Court ac- cepted — Sails on hi^iVoyajj^e -Anchorsat Port San Julian — Tmns- actions there — Description of the Natives — Discovers the Strait — Enters the South Sea — The Unfortunate Islands — The La- drono^ — The Island of Maza^^ua or Limasava — Ztbu— Inter- coifrst with the Natives — Death of Ma^rellan — His Character — Fleet proceeds to Bo»-neo,— Arrives at Tidore — The Ship Vitoria reaches Spain — Fate of the Trinidad — Results of the Expedition. The glory of dhcovcring a path to tlie South Sea, and CHAP IL of overcoming the difficulties which had hitherto im- Fernando do peded the navigation of its waters, is duo to Fernando MugciijuL de Magalhanes, Magalhaens, or, as it has hcen more commonly written in this country, Magellan.* He was hy birth a Portuguese, and sprung from a nohle family. He had served in India with much honour under the standard of the famous Albuquerque, and had there made considerable acquirements in practical sea- manship. To these were added no mean scientific at- tainments, and much information, derived from a cor- respondence with some of the first geographers and most • In Hawkeswortli's account of the first voyaj^e of Captain C(M>k (Hawkes. Coll , vol. ii. p. 41, London, 1773), appears the following note : — " The celebrated navijjator who discovered this strei^ht was a native of Portugal, and his name, in the lanj^uaji^e of his country, was Fernando de Magalhaens; the Spaniards call him Jlernundo Mu(/alhanes, and the French Magellan, which is the orthoy^raphy that has been {^^enerally adopted : a jjentleman, the iifth in descent from this great adventurer, is now living in or near London, and communicated the true name of his ancestor to iVIr [Sir Joseph] Banks, with a request that it mi^lit be inserted in this work." [CHAP, II ^lotlves for lili uiiilor- tuUititf. 'I i t f Snpposcii ili^covuries uf Mttrtlii Luliein. Rejection of MiiSelliiii's pi'opui-alS' 34 CIHCUMNAVIOATION OF MAGKLLAN. successful navigators of those days. The grounds on which he projected liis groat undertaking have not been accurately rcconled. It has l)een supposed he was struck with the circumstance that the South American continent trends still more to the westward in proportion as the higher latitudes are attained ; tlmt he concluded from this, that in shape it was probably similar to Africa ; and that its southern extremity must be washed by an open sea, through which there would necessarily be an entrance into the ocean beyond. There have not been wanting persons, however, to ascribe the honour of this discovery to Martin Beheni, — a distinguished geographer of that age, to whom also has been given the merit of having anticipated Columbus in finding the New World. But the pretensions sot forth in be- half of this individual have been traced to an error in attributing to him the construction of a globe made many years after his death, which took place in 1606.* This date is fatal to his claim, as at that time the South Sea itself was not discovered. It must be remembered, likewise, tlmt for many yeai-s afterwards, the best mariners of Spain searched unsuccessfully for the strait in question, which they could hardly have missed, if, as is alleged, it had been laid down in the charts of Behem. Magellan first made an offer of his service to his own sovereign, who, says Fray Gaspar,-J- " did not choose to * Irviiii^'s Columbus. Appendix, No. xii. vol. iv. p. 205-212. See also Biirney's Discov. in the South Sea, i 4r)-4J{. f Ctinquest of the Phi!i;piiie Islands. The principal authorities for the voyage of iVlauollan are Herrera, Barros, and Pij>af'elta. This last autlior, a nativi> of Vicenza in Italy, accompanied the ex- pedition. From an imperCcct copy of his narrative, an account was compiled by Purchas, vol. i. book i, chap. ii. The first })erfect edition was published from a manuscript in the Ambrosian Library, by C. Amoretti : — " Prime Viag^io intorno al ^lobo terraccpieo. Milano, IJJOO." This has since been translated into the French and English lanjruaj'es. In the "Historical Cullection of the several Voyajjes and Discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, by Alexander Dalrymple," London, 17^9, will be found translations of Herrera, Barros, and Caspar, arranged in a manner that much facilitates a comparison between their varyini;^ statements. It is to be regretted tliat Dalrymple has only treated of th»» voyage \ CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP MAOKLLAN. %') lu'ur it, nor to give it any confidence, but dismissed him with a frouii and singulftr disu'raco, very dirtennt from whiit was due to the ])roposal of Magalhanes, and the reptitation he had nc(|uiriMl for his vnlour." Thus did I'ortugal, after having njcctcd the greatest honour in the career of discovery, — the finding of America, — siiurn away the second, — the glory of tlje first circum- navigation of the globe. — Magellan, accompanied by Ruy Falero, a native astrologer who was associated with him in the enterprise, then determined to go to the Spanish court an<l tender the fame and ])rofit of his undertaking to the Emperor Cliarles V. lie arrived at Valladolid, where his majesty then was, al>out 1517, and his proposals were listened to with attention and respect. We are told by Ilerrera that he brought with him a globe fairly painted, on which he had described the lands and seas, and the track he meant to pursue, but carefully left the strait blank, that they might not anticipate his design. This precaution (if the tale is to be credited) was a bitter satire on the little faith to be reposed in the honour of princes, but it was not used without good reastjii ; for Magellan had before him the example of John II. of Portugal, who, having gathered from Columbus the theory of his great project, with singular meanness, secretly despatched a vessel to make the attempt, and rob the discoverer of his honours. The emperor, on considering the proposals of Magellan, was so much gratified as to confer on him several dis- tinctions. Articles of agreement were drawn out to the following etfect : — The navigator, and his countryman, Ruy Falero, agreed to reach the Moluccas by sailing to the west ; it was stipulated that they were to enjoy a ten years' monopoly of the track which they explored, and to receive a twentieth part of all the revenue and profits, which, after deducting the expenses, should of Mag^ellan down to his entry into the Pacific. Burney has dili- irently examined all the autliuritics with his usual acumen and pei- suverunce, and has woven the wliule into a comprehensive and dis- criminating narrative. q CHAP. II. Dlstnlssnl fioin I'or- tttgaL Visit to thj Spaiiisli court. i'tispiclnns prucuutions. Articles of agreement ^p ill \SltM CIIAl'. II. Title and privilutres conceded. ^Tnproll.".n'3 &quiidi'uii. Moan jen- luisy of tlic Poitugueso ki.ig. P^pjivturo oi M..;iclluii. ClIICrRlNAVIGATION OP MAGELLAN. accviie from their discoveripfj. He was ah* to enjoy the title of Adt'lantado over the seas and Jands he should hajipcn to make known. Certain privileges of mer- chandise were conceded to him and his associate, includ- ing a fifth i)art of all that the 8hii)s should bring home in the first voyage : the emperor agreed to furnish lor the expedition fivi^ vessels, two of 180 tons, two of ninety, and one of sixty ; and this fleet was to be victualled for two years, and provided with 2o4 men. These articles were concluded in Saragossa, and Ma- gellan then njiaircd to Seville, where, in the church of Santa Maria de la Vit(iria de Triana, the royal standard of Spain was fojnially delivered to him ; and he took a soleii.n oath that he would perfoim the voyage with all faithfulness as a good vassal of the emperor. His squad- ron was composed of the Trinidad, the San Antonio, the y itoria, the Concepcion, and the Santiago ; but the period of sailiiig was retarded by the interference of the Portuguese king, who thre\v every obstacle in the way of the enterprise which he hi'useli had not either the spirit or the generosity to encourage. He even endea- voured to entice Magellan from the Si anish service by promises of more advantageous tcims. Failing i.i this, he is supposed to have countenanced various reports which we^e circulated against the lame of the adven- turer ; while others among his countrymen ])redicted, thiit " the King of Spain 'vould lose the expenses, for Fernando Magalhanes was a chattering fellow, and little reliance to be placed in him, and that he would not execute what ht' pvomised."* At length this renowned leader sailed from San Lucar on th>? 20th, or, according to some acccv.nts, on the 21st of September 1519. His first destination was the Canary Islands, where he stojipod to take in wood and water ; and on tlu IStli December following he came to uncl.or in a })ort, which was named Santa Lucia, in 23^ degrees of soutii latitude, and on the coast of Brazil. * Jleriera, dci-. ii. lib. iv. cap. x. 7 \ ^ CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP MAGELLAN. 37 f 'i liis has someiimt'd been supposed the Rio de Janeiro of chap. ii. the Portuguese ; but modern observation docs not con- j^^.^j"^ „( firm the opinion. The natives appeared a confiding, south credulous, good-heurted race, and readily gave provi- '^'"*'' ^"' bions in exchange for trifling wares ; half-a-dozen fowls were obtained tor a king of spades, and the bargain was considered to be equally good by both parties. Piga- fetta siiys, — " They were very long lived, generally reaching 105 and sometimes 140 years o; age." Weighing anchor on the 27th, the squadron sailed pio ,13 i^ southward, and or. the 11th January 1520, reached i'^^'-*- Cape Santa Maria on the Rio de la Plata, where they took in sujiplies. Near this place Juan Diaz de Solis about five yeaie before had been murdered by the natives, .n which account they kept at a distance from their visiters. Putting again to sea, and touching at diff^orent places, the fleet, on Easter Eve, came; to anchor in a port which was named San Julian ; and there Magellan remained five months. Discontent, and at last oiJcn mutiny, broke out in his shi})s, the ringleaders being Mutiny in certain Sjiani-h officers, who felt mortified at serving thesqiuiiiim. under a Portuguese commander. The first step taken to restore ordei', however much it might accord with the character of that rude age, cannot be reconciled with our notions of lionouraole conduct : a pei'son was de- spatched with a letter to one of the captains, with orders to stab him whilst he was engaged in reading it. This commission being unscrupulously execut'Hl, and followed up by measures equally prompt in regard to the other mutineers, the authority of the captain-general was soon fully re established. "While the fleet l;iv in this harbour, the SfUitiago, one ri . » 1 " ' ~ ' Cruise &x\<\ 01 the ships, made an exploratory cruise ; and on the 8d wm k oi tiio May, the anniversiry of the Finding of the Holy Cross, ''^"''"S"- discovered the river named Santa Cruz. Having ad- vanced about three leagues farther to the south, the vessel was wiecked, though the crew, after suffering very great hardsjjips, ultimately rejoined the squadron. The long period which they passed on that coast enal d 38 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. ciiap. II. the Spaniards to form an intimate acquaintance with — the natives. Tliey had at first concluded that the coun- Tntprvicw try was uninhabited ; but one day an Indian, well made Willi a native. ^^^ ^j gigantic size, came capering and singing to the beach, throwing dust upon his head in token of amity. A seaman was forthwith sent on shore, and directed to imitate the gestures of this merry savage, who was of such immense stature, says Pigafetta, that a middle- sized Castilian only reached to his waist. He was large Personal np- ^^ proportion, and altogether a formidable apparition ; iicaiaiice. his broad face being stained red, save p. yellow circle about his eyes, and two bcart-shaped spots on his cheeks. His hair was covered with a white powder. His cloth- ing, formed of the skin of the guanaco,* covered bis body from head to foot, being wrapped round the ar > and legs, and sewed together all in one piece, like the dress of the ancient Irish. Shoes fabricated of the hide of the same animal, which made the feet ajipear round and large, procured for his whole tribe the name of Pata-gones, or clumsy-hoofed. The arms of this indivi- dual were a stout bow and arrows, — the former strung with gut, the latter tipped with flint-stones sharpened. He ascended the ship of the captain-^,eneral, where he appeared quite at his ease, ate, drank, and made merry, till, seeing his own image in a large steel mirror, he started back in alarm, and threw down four Spaniards. The good reception of this giar. .; brought more to the beach, who were taken on board and feasted, six of them eating as much as would have satisfied twenty seamen. The first Indian liad pointed to the sky, as if to inquire whether the Europeans had descended thence ; and they all wondered that the ships should be so large and the men so small. They were in general dressed and armed alike. They had short hair, and carried their arrows stuck in a fillet bound round tbeir heads. They ran • The camelus huanacns of IJnnaeu.s, a species of luma. This aniiiiiil, described by Pigafetta as iiavin^ the body of a camel, the legs of a stag, the tail of a horse, and the head and ears of a mule; excited great amazement among the S])anish seamen. N.'Uivcs on board tlio sliii)S. i ! I I ! ! CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 39 with amazing swiftness, and devoured their meat raw as CHAI-. ii. soon as it was obtaiiied. These savages practised bleed- iug by rudely cupping the part affected, and produced vomiting by thrusting an arrow pretty far down the throat of the patient. Magellan wished to carrj' home i\>rfi,iinns some of this singular race; and European craft was ^'''''f'"'' "^ basely opposed to Indian confidence and credulity. Fixing on two of the youngest and most handsome, lie presented to them knives, glass beads, and mirrors, till their hands were filled ; then rings of iron were offered ; an<l as they were eager to possess them but could not take hold of any more articles, the fetters were put upon their legs^ as if to enable them the move conveniently to carry these ornaments away. On discovering the treachery, they vainly struggled for freedom, and shrieked to their god Setebos.* Besides these prisoners, the cap- Attempt to tain-general was desirous of securing two females, that 8<"'='« "tiier the breed of giants might be introduced into Europe ; but though the women, whose stature was not so re- markable, were far from beautiful, their husbands be- trayed considerable symptoms of jealousy ; and, as they were more seldom seen, an opportunity of entrapping them could not be found, ^i was therefore resolved to seize other two men, in the hope of effecting an exchange. Force, however, was not so successful as stratagem, and it was with difficulty that nine of the strongest Spaniards threw them down. One of the savages broke loose even natives. * "They say," writes Pigafetta, "that when ar>y ^^f them die, there appears "ten or twelve devils loapinij;' and dam iiij>; about tlie h(Kiie of the dead, and seeme to have tlieir bodies painted with divers colours, and that amonj^ otliers there is one scene bi^r^er than the residue, who niaketh |j;reat mirth and rejoycing. This great Devili they call Selebos, and call the iesse Clieleule " — Pur- chas, vol. i. p. o5. It lias been supposed that from this passaji^e Shakespeare borrowed the demon Setebos, introduced iu the Tem- pestj act i. scene ii. : — " I must obey : his art is of such power, It would control my dam's j^od, Setebos, And make a vassal of him." There are other passajjes in the play of which the hint may have been taken from the narrative of r igsifetta ..J J 1J>.. -' ' '•"■Tlp'^^^ff ^WWI Deparhire fiiim San Julian. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. CHAP. II. in spite of every effort to detain him ; and in the end EscinTIifa *'^^ P^^" failed, for the other made his escape, and captive. MagelUm lost one of his own men, who was shot with a poisoned arrow in the pursuit. His companions, who fired on the runaways, " were unable," says Pigafetta, " to hit any, on account of their not escaping in a straight line, but leaping from one side to another, and getting on as swiftly as horses at a full gallop." On the 21st August, the fleet left Port San Julian, after taking possession of the country for the King cf Spain by the customary ceremonial of erecting a cr ^f he symbol of salvation, so often degraded into an ei< i of rapacity and cruelty in the fairest portions of the New World. Two months were afterwards passed at Santa Cruz, wliere the squadron was well supplied with wood and water ; and, on the 18th October, standing southward, they discovered Cape de las Virgines, and shortly afterwards the desired strait. After careful examination of the entrance, a council w£is held, at which the pilot, Est^van Gomez, voted for returning to Spain to refit ; while the more resolute spirits recommended that they should proceed and com- plete their discovery. ■" Magellan heard all in silence, and then firmly declared, that were he, Instead of the slighter hardships already suffered, reduced to eat the hides on the ship's yards, his determination was \o make good his promise to the emperor. On pain of death, every one was forbidden to speak of the short- ness of provisions or of home, — which, though a some- what unsatisf The strait discovered. Ill sfactory stifling the pangs of hungei ♦Gomez was by birth a Portuj^uese; and it has been alle^red, that the in'<i(liou3 advice wiiich he j^ive on this occasion, and his mutiny and desertion at a later period, were dictated by a desire to promote the interests of Portuy^al. See Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 121). — Another motive for tlie treachery of Gomez has been assigned by Pigafetta, viz. that he had previously engaged himself in the Spanish service, and had been appointed to, or promised the command of, a small squadron, to sail on a projected enterprise, vt^liich was laid aside on the arrival of Magellan i:i Spuiu. I ( CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. '^l Firmness of MiigelLin. Exp1oi1ni» thu Strait. or the longinc:s of affection, equally well answered the CHAP. IL purpose of the captain-general. Pigafetta makes no mention of the council ; but siiys the whole crew were persuaded that the strait hr.d no western outlet, and would not have explored it but for the firmness of Magellan. Two vessels were sent to examine the opening, and a hurricime coming on drove them violently thirty-six hours, during which they were in momentary alarm Icbt they should be i'orced ashore. The coasts more than once seemed to approach each other, on which the voyagers gave themselves up for lost ; but nevv channels successively opened, into which they gladly entered. In this manner they were led on till they had penetrat- ed the First and Second Gut, when the gale having abated, they thought it most prudent to retrace their course, and report what they had observed to the com- mander. Two days had already passed, and the captaui- general was not without fear that his consorts must have been cast away in the tempest ; while smoke being observed on shore, it was concluded to be a signal made by those who had had the good fortune to escape. Just at this instant, however, the ships were seen returning under full sail, with flags flying ; as they came nearer, the crews fired their bombards and uttered shouts of joy. These salutations were repeated by their anxious companions ; and, on learning the result of the search, the whole squadron advanced, liaving named the land where the smoke was seen Tierra del Fuego. On reaching the expanse into which the Second Gut opens, an inlet to the south-east was observeil, and two vessels were despatched to explore it, while the others steered to the south-west. Estevan Gomez was pilot in one of the ships sent on the former service; and, knowing that Magellan no longer lay Estevan' between him and the open sea, he incited the crew to Gi'Hiez. mutiny, threw the captain into chains, and under the darkness of night put about the helm and shaped his course homeward. This recreant had on board wiili SaiUnpof llie whole fleet. I I I 42 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. CHAP. II, Death of one of the cap- tives. First sifflit of the Paciflc Ocean. Knme of the Strait. Northward Course. Islnnd of San him one of the giants, whom he calculatocl upon being the first to present at the court of Spain ; but the poor prisoner pined under the heat of the tropical regions, and died on approaching the line. In the mean time, the commander of the expedition pursued the channel to the south-west, and anchored at the mouth of a river, where he resolved to wait the arrival of the other vessels ; he ordered a boat, however, to proceed and reconnoitre, and on the third day the sailors re- turned with the intelligence that they had seen the end of the strait, and the ocean beyond it. " We wept for joy," says Pigafetta, " and the cape was denominated II Capo Deseado, for in truth we had long wished to see it." Public thanksgiving was also made ; and after spending several days in a vain search for the deserter, and erecting several standards in conspicuous situations, the three remaining ships stood towards the western mouth of the strait, Avhich they reached thirty -seven days after discovering Cape de las Virgines. Magellan entitled this long-sought passage the Strait of the Pata- gonians, — a name which has been justly superseded by that of the discoverer. He found it to be so deep, that anchorage could only be obtained by approafliing near to the shore ; and estimated the length of it at 110 leagues. Pigafetta relates, that during the voyage he " talked with the Patagonian giant " on board of the captain-general's ship, and obtained some words of his native language, so as to form a small vocabulary, which, as far as subsequent inquiries afford the means of judg- ing, is substantially correct. It was the 28th of November when the small squad- ron gained the open sea, and held a northerly course, in order to reach a milder climate (the crews having already suffered severely from extreme cold), as well as to escape the storms usually encountered about the western opening of the strait. On the 24th January 1621, they discovered an island, which was named San Pablo in memory of the Pata- gonian, who had died, after being baptized, it is alleged. i. ClRCUMNAVIGATIOiN OF MAGELLAN. 43 at his own request ; and on the 4tli February another chap. ii. small island was seen, and called Tiburones, or Sharks' rpj,j^,'j;^j, ^^^ Island. The crews had now suffered so much from the "^iin !<»' want of provisions and fresh water, and from the ra- vages of the scurvy,* that, depressed by their condition and prosjjccts, they named these discoveries Las Desven- tur.ulas, or the Unfortunate Islands. Their sufferinus, for three months and twenty days after entering the Pacific, were painful in the extreme. Nineteen died of scurvy ; and the situation of the remainder, reduced to chew the leather found about the ship, and to drink putrid water, was in the highest degree deplorable. Even sawdust was eaten, and mice were in such request as to sell for half a ducat a-piece. Their only solace was a continuance of delightful weather, and of fair winds which carried them smoothly onwards. To this circum- oripin of the stance the South Sea owes its name of Pacific, — a title "'"J^<^ Pucuic which many succeeding seamen have thought it ill de- serves. On the 6th of March were discovered three beautiful and apparently fertile islands, inhabited, and therefore likely to afford succour to the fleet. The In- dians immediately came off in their canoes, bringing cocoa-nuts, yams, and rice. Their complexion was olive-brown, and their form handsome ; they stained Native the teeth black and red, and some of them wore long supi'iit-^ beards, with the hair of their heads hanging down to the girdle. On these poor islanders, whose pilfering propensities obtained for this group the appellation of the Ladioncs (or Tliieves), the captain-general took * As Piiraf'etta describes the effects of this disease without nam. intj it, it is obvious that to its severity was then added the terror of" a new and stranjre visitation. " Our j^reatest misfortune," he sa^'s, " was hein^- attacked by a malady in wliich the (rums swelled so as to hide the teeth as well in the upper as the lower jaw, whence those affected thus were incapable of chewing; their food. Resides those who died, we had from twenty-five to thirty sailors ill. who suffered dreadful pains in their arms, lej^s, and other parts of the body." Some years later, when the crews of Cartier were seized by the same disorder, it appeared to them also equally novt»l and loathsome. — See Historical View of the Proi^ress of Discovery on the more Northern Coasts of America, p. 64. 44 CIKCUMNAVIOATION OF MAGELLAN. CHAP. II. s^igrml vongeance for a small offence. A skiff was stolen CrueTie- from the stern of tbe capitnna, or admiral's ship, upon ven>?e on the which Magellan landed with ninety men, plundered natives. their provisions, and burnt fifty or sixty of their houses,* which were built of wood, having a roof of boards covered with leaves about four feet in length, probably those of the bananier (musa pisang). lie also killed some of the natives, to whom the arrow was an unknown weapon, and who when pierced by the shafts of the Spaniards, excited pity by vain attempts to extract them. incffcotniii 1'bt'y had lances tipt with fish-bone ; and when the retaiiutioii. invaders retreated, they followed with about 100 canoes, variously painted, black, white, or red, and showed fish, as if disposed to renew their traffic ; but on getting near they pelted the people in the ships with stones, and then took to flight. The boats of these savages re- sembled gondolas, and were furnished with a sail of i \ * P. le GoSien, in liis History of the Ladroneor Marian Islands, has asserted, tlmt at tlie lime jMajyellan arrived, the natives were altogether ignorant of fire, and that, when for tlie first time they saw it consuming their houses, they rega«"ded it as an animal which attached itself to tlie wood, and fed u|K)n it. This tale has been jidopted by the Abbe U.iynal, in his Ilistorj' of the F.ast and West Indies, and has sewed him as a topic for ample declamation: and tlie Abbe Prevost, in his " Histoire generale des Voyages," has also given it credit, quoting as his authority the narrative of Piga- fctta. As, however, was very early remarked by the President de Brosses, in his " Histoire des Navigiitions aux Terres Australes," Pigafetta, credulous and fabulous as he is, has made no mention of this circumstance. This alone mif'ht be held sufficient to disprove the unsupported assertion of Le Gobien. But, as Malto-Brun has observed (Knglish Translat. vol. iii. p. H18), ^^ these inlands are filled with volcanoes,^' — a circumstance of which Raynal was not aware, as he accounts for this supposed ignorance of fire, by assum- ing the fact that here there are " none of those terrible volcanoes, the destructive traces of which are indelibly marked on the face of the globe." Nor is this all; a later French navigator remarks, " Les insulaires chez qui on assure que le feu etoit incimnu avoient dans leurs langues les mots fev, hiulei\ churbon, hraise, four^ piiller, hoiiillir. Sec, et fahriquoient, avant Vaniree des Evro- fieens dans leurs iles, des pnteries cvidemment souvtises a Faction du feu.** — Voyage autour du Monde, execute sur les Corvettes de S. M. I'Uranie et la Physicienne pendant les anm es 1817-18-19 et '20. Par M. Louis de Freycinet — His;orique, tome ii. p. 106. See also pp. 322, 4<^i. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF .MAGELLAN. 45 pnlm-leavcs, which was hoisted at the one si.'c, while, CllAr ri. to halance it, a heam oi* out- rigger was fastened to the K,itiu^ other. Vessels of the same construction were af'terwavds vcsscb. ohserved in the South Sea hy Anson and Cook, who very much admired the ingenuity of the contrivance. From the 16tli to the 18th of Marcli, other islands were discovered, forming the group then called the Archi- pelago of St Lazarus, hut now known as part of the Disrovory d Philippines. The inhahitants were found to he a friendly pi',^Ji'^',',',\'i^ and comparatively civilized people. They wore orna- ments of goM ; and, though otherwise nearly naked, displayed cotton head-dresses embioideied with silk. They were tattooed, and had their bodies perfumed with aromatic oils. They cultivattid the land and form- ed stores of spices ; they nsed harpoons and nets in fishing ; and Vza cutlasses, clubs, lances, and bucklers, some of them ornamented with gold. On the 26th, the fleet left Humunu, the principal member of the group, and afterwards touched at some others in the same archipelago. At a small island named Mazagua, and supposed to be Communir.i- the Limasava of modern charts, a slave on board, by '"'" ^^'^'' ""* name Enrique, and a native of Sumatra, was able to make himself understood by the savages, lie accord- ingly acted as the interpreter of Magellan in explaining the reasons of this visit on the part of the Spaniards, and in imfolding the terms of comm.crce and friendly intercourse which they wished to establish with them. Mutual presents were made, and ceremonial visits exchanged ; the captain-general doing every thing likely imprcssJona to impress the Indian king with the power and superi- produced on ority of Europeans and the dignity of the emperor his master. For this purpose he caused a sailor to be clothed in complete armour, and directed three others to cut at him with swords and endeavour to stab him. On seeing the mailed man remain unharmed amid this shower of steel, the island-prince was greatly surprised, and remarked, that a warrior so protected would be ablu to contend with a hundred. "Yes," replied the into 46 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. CHAP. II. preter, in the name of the cftptiiin, " and each of th<» tliree vessels has 200 men armed in the same manner." l{(!ccption on With this chief Magelhm formed a close friendship; and two Spaniards being invited on sltore to inspect the * curiosities of the country, the chronicler of the voyage was sent as one of them. They partook of an entertain- ment with tile Rajah CoLimbu, as he was called, and were served in vessels of porcelain. The king's manner of eating was to take alternately a mouthful of pork and a spoonful of wine, lifting his hands to heaven before he helped himself, and suddenly extending his left fist towards his visiter in such a manner that, on his first performing the ceremony, Pigafetta expected to receive a blow on the face. Seeing all the rest of the company go through tiie same gesticulations, the polite Vicentinc conformed to the customs of the place, and having finished his repast, was otherwise very graciously treated, being introduced to the heir-apparent, and left at night to repose on a comfortable matting of reeds with pillows of leaves to support his head. Among the luxuries of Mazagua were candles made of gums, rolled up in the foliage of the palm-tree. The sovereign was a remarkably handsome man, of olive complexion, with long black hair ; his body elegantly tattooed, and per- fumed with storax and gum-benjamin. He was adorned with gold ear-rings, " and on each of his teeth," says the narrator, " were three golden dots, so placed one would have thought his teeth had been fiistened with this metal." * About his middle he wore a tunic of cotton cloth embroidered with silk, which descended to the knees ; around his head was wrapped a silken tur- ban or veil ; while a dagger at his side, having a handle of gold and a scabbard of exquisitely carved wood, completed the costume of this barbaric ruler. It was Tlic Rove- ri'ij,'!! I If • Peron montions small s[)ots of silver on the fore-teeth of some of the people of Timor, fixed to the enamel by a kind of mastic, so firmly that he cotild not pick them off with his nails ; and the man who wore them ate before him without seeming to feel any inron« vcuience from their whimsical finery. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP MAOELLAV. 47 observed that liis subjects enlivened tl)eniselves by con- ciiAP II. stantly chewing betel and arcea, mixed with a portion of lime. They acknowledy;ed one Supreme Being, liiens of a whom they called Abba, and worshipped, by lifting ij"j',^g"'" their hands towards heaven. At this time was Magellan first seized with the violent desire of making proselytes, in which he easily succeeded. On Easter Day, a party landed to say mass, and all their ceremonies were exactly imitated by the natives. Some of the Spaniards afterwards received the communion ; which being ended, " the captain," says Pigafetta, "exhibited a dance with swords, with which the king and his brother seemed much delighted." A large cross garnished with nails and a crown of thorns was then erected on the top of a hill, and the Indians were told that, if duly adored, it would defend them from thunder, tempests, and all calamities. The men then formed into battalions, and having astonished the savages by a discharge of mus- ketry, returned to the ships. Such were the first mis- sionary labours among these islands! Gold was seen in some abundance ; but iron was obviously much more Value nt- valued, as one of the natives preferred a knife to a l"^'"^*^ ^^ doubloon in exchange for some provisions. Tiie com- modities brought to the ships were hogs, goats, fowls, rice, millet, maize, cocoa-nuts, oranges, citrons, ginger, and bananas. At the request of the rajah, part of the Spanish crew went on shore to help him in gathering in his crop of rice ; but the poor prince, who had assisted on the previous day at mass and afterwards at a banquet, had yielded so far to intemperance that all business was deferred till the morrow, when the seamen discharged this neighbourly office, and shortly afterwards saw harvest-home in Mazagua. On the 5th of April the fleet sailed, the king attena- snninRof tha ing it in his pirogue. Being unable to keep up with ^''^'• the squadron, he and his retinue were taken on board ; and on the 7th of the same month they entered the harbour of Zebu, — an island rendered memorable by the first settlement of the Spaniards in the Philippines. CHAP, Tsliiiid of ZuUu. 4n CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP MAGELLAN. Kcccptlon of MiiKflian by thu king. The accounts wliicli the captain-general had received of the riches and power of the sovereign, made it a point of good policy to impress him and his suhjects with tlie greatness of their visiters. The ships therefore entered the port with their colours flying ; and a grand salute from all the cannon caused great consternation among the islanders, ahout 2000 of whom, armed witii speara and shields, stood at the water-side, gating with astonish- ment at a sight so new to them. An ambassador, attended by the interpreter Enrique, was sent on shore, charged with a message importing the high consideration which " the greatest monarch on earth," and his captain- general, Magellan, entertained for the King of Zebu. He also announced that the fleet had come to take in provisions, and give merchandise in exchange. The prince, who actod through his ministers, made the strangers welcome, though he insisted on the payment of certain dues. These, however, were dispensed h, in consequence of the representations of a A » merchant then in the island, who had heard of the Portuguese conquests in the East ; and in a few days, every requisite ceremony being observed, a treaty of- fensive and defensive was formed. In manners and in social condition this people did not appear to differ from the natives of Mazagua. Their religion, it is true, version wi iiie whatever it was, sat but li^'htly upon them ; for in a few days Magellan converted and baptized half their number. The rite was administered on shore, where a rude chapel was erected. Mass was performed, and every ceremony was observed which could deepen the impres- sion of sanctity ; among wliich, tlie firing of guns from the ships was not forgotten. The royal family, the Rajah of Mazagua, and many pei-sons of rank, were the first converts ; the king receiving the name of Carlos, in honour of the emperor. Among these sudden Chris- tians were also the queen and ladies of the court. Baptism was likewise administered to the eldest princess, daughter of his majesty and wife of his nephew the Ucir-apparent, a young and beautiful woman. She Sudden cfin- l; CIKCUMNAVIGATION OF MAQKLLAN. ^ usually wore a robe of black and white cloth, and on cii.\P ii.' htr luad a tiara of date-lcavi-s. " lit-r inouth ft*id .,. "T",. nails," adds PigatVtta, "were of a very lively red." or theqneiii One day the queen came in state to hear mass. She "' """*''*• was dressed in a garment like that of her daughter, with a silk veil strijjcd with gold flung over her head and shoulders ; and three young girls walked before her, each carrying one of the royal hats. The attendants were numerous, wearing small veils and girdles, or short petticoats of palm-cloth. Her majesty bowed to the altar, and having seated herself on a cushion of em- broidered silk, was with the rest sprinkhd by the captain-general with rose-water, — " a scent," says the writer already quoted, " in which the women of this country much delight." A cure performed on the king's brother, who after oaro effcotci being baptized recovered of a dangerous illness, com- ''^ ^i»«''""»« pleted Magellan's triun^ph. Pigafetta gravely relates, " we were all of us ocular witnesses of this miracle." By way of help, however, to the supernatural agency, a restorative cordial was immediately administered, and repeated during live days, until the sick man was able to go abroad. The fashionable religion of the court spread rapidly. The cross was set up, idols were broken, amid zealous shouts of " Viva la Castilla!" in honour of the Spanish monarch, and in less than fourteen days from the arrival of the squadron the whole inluibitants of Zebu and the neighbouring islands were baptized, save those of one infidel village, which the captain-gemral burnt in punishment of their obstinacy, and then erected a cross amidst the ashes and ruins. Among other customs, the Zebuians drank their wine Cntertain- by sucking it through a reed. At an entertainment iJI""f„f'^^" given by the prince, the heir-apparent, four singing girls imucc. were introducer^ One beat a drum, another the kettle- drum, the third two smaller instruments of the same description, and the fourth struck cymbals against each other ; and as they kept excellent time, the effect was ]deusing. The kettle drum was of metal, and in form 50 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. Native music. Exnction ol iiibute. CHAP. II and tone somewhat like European bells. Other j'ounj^ women played on j^ongs ; and the islanders had a miisieal instrument resembling the bagpipe, as well as a sort of violin with copper strings. Their houses were raised on 2*03ts, and divided into chambers, tlie open space below .lorving as a shed for domestic animals and poultry. Provisions were plentiful, and the Indians everywhere showed hospitalit}' to their visiters, constantly inviting them to eat and drink. Tliey appeared indeed, to place much of their enjoyment in the pleasui'es of the table, at which they often remained four or five hours. Magellan availed himself of the submissive and re- spectful demeanour of these people, and exacted from them and the chiefs of the neighbouiing islands a tribuie, which seems to have been willingly paiJ. The King of Matan alone refused . "> acknowledge this new sovereignty, and with much spirit replied to the demand, tliat as strangers he wished to show them all suitable courtesy, and had sent a present, but he owed no obedience to those he had never seen ])efore, and would pay theni none. This answer greatly incensed the captain-general, now above measure elated'with the success which hadat- a'uack on the tended his late labours. He forthwith resolved to punish natives. the refractory chief, refusing to listen to the arguments of his officers, and particularly to those of Juan Serrano, who remonstrated with him on the impolicy of his de- sign. Accordingly, on the 27th of April, being a Satur- day, wliich Magellan always considered his fortunate day, he landed with forty-nine of his people clotluM^. ij mail, and began an attack on about 1500 Indians. Tii6 King of Zebu attended his ally with a force ; but his tictive services; were declined, and his men remained in their boats. The battle between crossbows and mus- ketry on the one side, and arrows and wooden lances on the other, raged many hours. The natives, brave from the onset, rose in courage when they became familiar- ized with the Spanish fire, which did comparatively little execution. A party of the latter was detached to burn a village, in the hope that the destruction of their CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 51 houses would overawe and induce them to disperse ; ')ut CHAP. IT. the sight of the flames only exasperated them the more, c.,„r^ ane and some of them hastening to the spot, fell upou their skill of tiio enemies and killed two. They soon learned to take aim at the legs of the assailants, which were not protected by mail ; and pressing closer and harder upon their ranks, threw them inco disorder, and compelled them to give way on all sides. Only seven or eight men now remained with their leader, who, besides, was wounded in the limbs by a poisoned arrow. He was also re- peatedly struck on the head with stones ; his helmet was twice dashed oflF ; a lance thrust between the bars wounded him in the temple ; and his sword-arm being disabled, he could no longer defend himself. The fight continued till they were up to the knees in water ; and at last an Indian struck Magellan on the leg. Ho fell Death of on his face, and as the islanders crowded about him was ^^ i^"""'- seen to turn several times towards his companions ; but tliey were unable either to rescue him or revenge his death, and made for the boats. " Thus," says Pigafetta, "perished our guide, our light, and our support !" Though the rash warfare waged with the unoffending ciianu tev of cliief of Matan cannot be vindicated on any principle ol "'® Aaniu\ii. justice, the premature and violent death, in the very middle of liis career, of a navigator and discoverer second only to Columbus, will ever be a cause of regret. Magel- lan was eminently endowed with the qualities necessary to a man engaged in adventures like those in which he spent his life. He had a quick and ieady mind, ever fertile in expedients, and never wanting in self-posses- sion. He possessed the rare tdent of command ; being no L'ss beloved than respected by his crews, though Spanish pride and national jealousy made the officers sometimes murmur against liis authority. He was a skilful and experienced seaman ; prompt, resolute, and inflexible ; having a high sense of his own dignity, and maintaining it with becoming spirit. When, on one occasion, certain of the pilots re jnstratcd with him on the direction of i\is course, his only answer was, that CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. CHAP. II. Pors'inul ap- pearance. III ' Hatred of Mm liy tlic Tortuj^uese. their duty was to follow him, not to ask questions. In personal appearance, he was rather mean ; his stature was short, and he was lame from a wound which he had received in battle with the Moors. His former voyage to India, which he extended to Malacca, and the success- ful one he had just made, entitle him to be named the first circumnavigator of the globe. The unfortunate circumstances which led him to abandon his native country, in order to serve her foe and rival, long ren- dered his memory odious in Portugal. The only land, indeed, in which his fame was not acknowledged was the country which gave him birth. " The Portugall authoio," says Purchas, " speake of him nothing but treason, and cry out upon him as a traitor for sowing seeds likely to produce warre 'twixt Castile and Por- tugall : Nor doe I in those thingcs undertake to justifie him. But out of his whatsoever evill, God produced this good to the world, that it was first by his meanes sayled round : Nor was his neglect of his countrey ne- glected, or rcvengefull mind unrevenged, as the sequele manifested by his untimely and violent death." It is impossible to condemn Magellan for carrying his rejected services to the Spanish court ; though the necessity of such a step must for ever be deplored, both for his own and for his country's sake.* • A {i;'enoroii.s feelinjif has hiirrieil iraiiy the Kiny: of Portiitral. tlie iuslice of which i writers into censures on m^ cit Portugal, tlie justice ot wliicli maj' perliaps he doubted. It must he recollected, that the proposal of Magellan to Emanuel went no farther than to undertake the douhtfid search of a danger- ous passage to the Moluccas ; and that the Portuguese already en- joyed the monojwly of a safe iind shorter route than that which he eventually explored. His majesty miist also have been aware, that the discovery of a western passage to the Spice Islands was likely to give SjKiin an opportunity of asserting a right to those valuable possessions under the treaty of Tordesillas. These power- fill reasons of state-jmlicy, in an age when self-interest only was con- sulted in undertakin|};s of discovery, ought surely to have heen al- lowed some weight m favour of the Portuguese court, and, at any rate, to have ooviated such obloquy as that of Dalrymple in (he following sentence : — " Every pisblic-spirited Portuguese must lar lueut tliat oblivion has concealed the names of those ministers who CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 53 Kight Spaniards fell with their leader, and twenty- two were wounded. During the heat of the engagement the King of Zebu sat in his balanghay, gazing on the combat, which had doubtless produced a considerable change in his notions as to the prowess of his new allies ; but towards its close he rendered some assistance which iacilitated their re-embarkation. Though tempting offers were made to the people of Matan to give up the body of the captain-general, they would not part with so proud a trophy of victory. The result of this fatal battle put an end to the friendship of the new Christian king. He wished to make his peace with the offended sovereign of Matan, and by means of the treacherous slave Enrique, wlio, on the death of Magellan his master, refused, until compelled by threats, to continue his services as inter- preter, formed a plan for seizing the ships, aims, and merchandise. The officers were invited on shore to a banquet, where they expected to receive, previous to their departure, a rich present of jewels, prepared before the death of Magellan for his Most Catholic Majesty. A party landed accordingly to tlie number of twenty- four ; but from certain appearances which met their eyes, Juan Carvallo tli f)ilot, and another Spaniard, suspected treachery, and j. turned to the ships. Tin y had scarcely reached them, wlien the shrieks of the victims were heard. The anchors bein? instantly raised, the vessels were laid close to the shore and fired several shots upon the town. At this time Captain Juan Serra o was seen dragged to the edge of the water, wounded and tied hand and foot. He earnestly em eated his countrymen to deslat from firing, and to ransom him from this cruel and treacherous people. They tuined a deaf ear to his prayers ; and he was thus hl^ ., the mercy of the islanders. Pigafetta relates that, nnding all his entreaties were vain, he uttered deep imprecations. merit the eternal execration of their countr},', for hv'ms Instnimonta in depriving it of the services of" so jfreat a man as Alagaihanes." — Hi&t. Collect, of Discov. in the South Sea, vol. i. {% 4. CHAP. IL Loss of tlie Spaaioi'UA. Treachery of the kiny of Zebu. ^tiissaprc of ihc Span- 54 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 1; i: ■ yi chap. n. Heartless de- sertion of their com- rades. Fate of the captives. Kcduction of tile anna- uient. DimcuUy of olraininjj Viovisions. and appealed to the Almighty on the great day of judg- ment to exact account of his soul from Juan Carvallo, his fellow-gossip. His cries were, however, disregarded," continues the narrator, " and we set pail ^ ithout ever hearing afterwards what hecame of him." This cruel abandonment of a friend is imputed to the hope which Carvallo entertained of succeeding to the command on the death of Serrano, the captains of the other ships being already massacred. It is but justice to the people of Zebu to mention, that one narrative of the voyage imputes the indiscriminate slaughter of the Spaniards to a quarrel arising between them and the natives, for in- sulting their women. Some years afterwards it was incidentally learned that, instead of being all murdered, eight of the Europeans were carried to China and sold as slaves. But the truth was never clearly ascertained. The armament of Magellan next touched at the island of Bohol, where, finding their numbers so much reduced by sickness and the battle of Matan, they burned one of the ships, first removing the guns and stores into the others now commanded by Carvallo. At Zebu they had already heard of the Moluccas, tlieir ultimate destina- tion. They touched at Chippit in Mindanao on their way, and afterwards at Cagayan Sooloo, where they first heard of Borneo. In this voyage they were so badly provided with food, that several times hunger had nearly compelled tliem to a])nndon their ships, and establish themselves on some of the islands, wheie they meant to end their days. This purpose appears to have been particularly strong after leaving the last-mentioned anchorage, where the people used hollow reeds, through which by the force of their breath they darted poisoned arrows at their enemies, and had the hilts of their pon- iards ornamented with gold and precious stones. The trees, moreover, grew to a great height, but none of the necessary supplies could be obtained. They therefore sailed with heavy hearts and empty stomachs to Puluan, where provisions being very abunlant, they acquired fresh courage to persevere in their ^'oy^ge. Here a pilot I! \ 1 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 55 wfts procured, with whose assistance tl y steered towards chap. li. Borneo, which island they reached on the 8th July . .-— 1521, and anchored three leagues from the city, which bonieo. was computed to contain 25,000 families. It was built within high-water-mark, and the houses were raised on posts. At full tide the inhabitants communicated by boats, when the women sold their various commodities. The religion of Borneo was the Mohammedan. It abounded in wealth, and the natives are described as exhibiting a higher degree of civilisation and refinement than has been confirmed by subsequent accounts. Let- ters were known, and many of the arts flourished among them ; they used brass coin in their commerce with one another, and distilled from rice the spirit known in the East by the name of arrack. Presents were here exchanged, and after the ceremo- deception of nial of introduction, permission to trcide was granted, tiic Spanish Elephants were sent to the water's side for the Spanish '^'"""^^y embassy ; and a feast of veal, capons, several other kinds of fowl, and fish, was placed before them on the floor, while they sat on mats made of palm. After each mouthful they sipped arrack from porcelain cups. They were supplied with golden spoons to eat their rice ; in their sleeping-apartment two wax flambeaux in silver candlesticks, and two large lamps with four lights to each, were kept burning all night, two men being appointed to attend to them. The king was a stout man about forty. When admitted to an interview, the deputation first pnssed through a large saloon thronged Uoruea with courtiers, and then into an ante-room where were 300 guards armed with poniards. At the extremity of the apartment was a brocade curtain, and when this was drawn up the king was seen sitting at a table with a little child, and chewing betel, while close behind him were ranged his female attendants. No suitor was per* mitted to address his majesty personally, but communi. cated his business in the first place to a courtier, who told it to one of a higher rank, who again repeated it to a still greater dignitary, who, in his turn, by means of a Productions of Borneo. Attack bythc Spaniai'da. Piratical pro ceudings. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. hollow cane fixed in the wall, breatlu/d it into the inner chamber to one of the principal officers, by wiiom it was ultimately conveyed to the royal ear. The monarch received the Spanish gifts with merely a slight move- ment of the head, discovering no eager or undignified curiosity, and returned presents of brocade, and cloth of gold and silver. The courtiers were all naked, save a piece of ornamented cloth round their waists. On their fingers they wore many rings ; and their poniards had golden handles set with gems. The curtain of the royal saloon, which was raised when the ceremony began, dropped at the conclusion, and all was over. Pigafetta was told that the king had two pearls as large as pullets* eggs, and so perfectly round that, placed on a polished table, they rolled continually. The productions of Borneo were rice, sugar-canes, ginger, camphor, gums, wax ; fruits and vegetables in great variety ; and among the animals were elepliants, camels, horses, and buffaloes, asses, sheep, and goats. The people were peculiarly skilful in the manufacture of porcelain, which constituted a principal article of their merchandise. Theiv pirogues were ingeniously formed, and those used for state pur- poses had their prows carved and gilt. The Spaniards, who seldom or never left any port they visited on good terms with the people, in real or affected alarm for an attack, seized several junks in the harbour, in which they knew there was a rich booty, and kidnapped some persons of quality. The authority of Carvallo, which had never been respected, was now set aside by the choice of Espinosa as captain-general. Sebastian del Cano, a Biscayan, was also made a commander ; and the squadron fortli- with commenced what more resembled a privateering cruise than a peaceful voyage of discovery and traffic, pillaging all the small vessels they met, and holding the passengers to ransom. Between the north cape of Borneo and the island of Cimbubon, they found a com- modious port for careening, — a labour which occupied them forty-two days. They were destitute of many i^^k^J^Ji CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 57 things necessary for ninking repairs ; but the most cilAP n. serious ineonveuience was the difficulty of procuring — timber, whicli, altliougli barefooted, they were obliged to drag from among the tangled and prickly bushes. It was among these thickets tliat Pigafetta found the Extroordi- famous animated leaf, the account of which tended so "'""y ?''<-'"<>- much at first to stamp his narrative with the character served. of fable. " What to me seemed most extraordinary," he says, " was to see trees, the leaves of which as they fell became animated. These leaves resemble those of the mulberry-tree, except in not being so long. Their stfilk is short and pointed ; and near the stalk, on one side and the other, they have two feet. Upon being touched they make away ; but when crushed they yield no blood. I kept one in a box for nine days ; on -j |,g „„(. opening the box at the end of this time, the leaf was mated leaf. nlive and walking round it. I am of opinion they live on air." Subsequent travellers have observed a similar phenomenon, and some conjecture that it is moved by an insect within ; while others describe it as a species of bat, the wings of which exactly resemble a brown leaf with its fibres Continuing their piratical voyage, they encountered a dreadful storm, and in their alarm vowed to set free a slave in honour of each of the three saints, Elmo, Nicholas, and Clare. The desired lights, pjectiic the tokens of safety, having appeared on the mast-heads, Ugiits. and continued to shine two hours, the storm abated, and the promised oflFering was made.* Touching at Sarran- gan, they seized two natives, whom they compelled to act as their pilotsto the long-sought Moluccas, which they at length reached, and on the 8th November anchored at Tidore. They met with a hospitable and kind re- • It may be proper to explain, that tlie electric li^jlits, which in stormy weather are frequently seen flickering- on the tips of the masts, were believed to represent the body of'Siiint Elmo, and regard- ed as a sure sign that there was no danger in the tempest. When the lights were three in number, two of tliem were supposed to mark the presence of Nicholas and Clare. The appearance of these lambent fiauies was hailed with the chanting of litanies and orisuniii. * 58 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP MAOBLLAN. CHAP. II. ception. Arrival nt tlio Mdluccas. suveroign Prndnctlon.s oflhcitjhiiuU I I Abandon- ment 01 tho Trinidad. The ships were visited by Ahnanzor, the of tho inland ; a traffic in spices was com- menced, and a factory establislied on shore, where trade soon became brisk, the native productions being readily given in exchange for red cloth, drinking-glasses, knives, and hatchets. This king was a Mohammedan, to which faith the Moors, at a period comparatively recent, had converted as many of the native princes of the Efist Indian Islands as they had stripped of their power. The Moluccas, which had been discovered by the Portuguese in the year 1611, were found to be five in number, lying on the west coast of a large island called Gilolo. They were named Tidore, Ternate, Motir, Biichian, and Maquian. Their best spices were nut- megs, cloves, ginger, and cinnamon, which grew almost spontaneously. The houses were built on piles or posts, and fenced round with cane hedges. The King of Bachian sent as a gift to the emperor two dead birds of cxqaislte beauty, which, the natives called " birds of God," saying they came from Paradise. These animals, as well as the clove- tree, of which Pigafetta gives a description, are now well known. By the middle of December the cargoes were completed ; and the Span- ish commander, ready to depar. . was charged with letters and presents, consisting of the rarest productions of the island, sent to the emperor his master by the King of Tidore. When about to sail, the Trinidad was found unfit for sea ; and t'le Vitoria proceeded alone on the homeward voyage, with a crew of forty-seven Europeans, thirteen Indians, and also Molucca pilots. These native mariners entertained tlie Europeans with many a marvellous legend. While steering for Min- danao, before coming to the Moluccas, Pigafetta had heard of a tribe of hairy men, inhabiting a cape on the island Benaian, very fierce and warlike, and who were said CO consume the hearts of their prisoners with lemon or orange juice ; and he was now told of a people whose ears were so long, that the one served them tor a mat- " ZTTMiumt!^' "-' ""' CmCUiMNAVIGATlON OF MAGELLAN. 69 !\ i I tress and the other for a coverlet.* He was also informed of a tree, vvliich gave shelter to birds of suffi- cient size and strength to pounce upon an elephant, and bear him up into the air. The Vitoria touched at different places in the voyage to Spain, and, after a mutiny and the loss of twenty-one men, paased the Cape of Good Hope on the 6th May 1522. Being reduced to the greatest extremity for want of provisions, the officers anchored in the harbour of Santiago, one of the Cape de Verd Islands belonging to the Portuguese, on what, according to their reckon- ing, was Wednesday the 9th July, but which, in fact, proved Tliursday the 10th — a difference which was ex- ti'emely perplexing at first, though a little reflection soon enabled Pigafetta to perceive the reason.+ Some provisions were obtained before the quarter whence the ship had come was suspected ; but the truth being at length discovered, in consequence of a sailor offijring some spices in exchange for refreshments, the boat was seized, and the people on board seeing preparations making for an attack, crowded sail and escaped. On Saturday the 6tli September 1522, after a voyage of throe years' duration, in which upwards of 14,000 * The classical reader will be amused bytlie coincidence between tlie narratives of the Molucca pilots and the wonders related by Straljo, who recounts this amon^ other lefjfcnds broujjht from the Kast by the soldiers of Alexander the Great. f To illustrate the fact mentioned in the text, let us suppose a ship sailintf westward keeps pace with the sun, it is evident that the crew would have continual day, or it would be the same day to them during their circumnavigation of the earth ; whereas the people, who remained at the place the vessel departed from, would iuive a tiight in the mean time, and conseciuently must reckon a day more than the voj'agers. If the ship sailed eastward, an opposite effect w<iuld be produced ; for, by constantly meeting the sun every morning at an earlier hour, a whole day is gained in the tour of the globe. Hence, if two ships should set out at the same time from any port, and sail round the world, the one eastward and the other westward, so as to meet again at the same port, they will be found to differ two days in reckoning their time at their return. — Keith on the Use of the Globes, p 42. A beautiful illustration of the jihenomenon will aWo be found in Sir J. F. W. Herschers Treatise on Astronomny (Lardncr's Cabinet Cyclopa:dia), p 1^7* CHAP. n. Extravngiint marvels. Passiijjo of the Ciipu of Gooil Iliipe. Difference of reckoning,'. Attempt to seize tlie vessel. 60 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. CHAP. IL Arrival at Sun Lucar. Thanksfflr- ing services. Rewards of Setmstian del Cano. Fate of the Ti-iuidad. Rpsultso'fthe voyage. longues of sea Imd been traversed, Sebastian del Cano brought the Vitoria into San Lucar, and on the 8th proceeded up the river to Seville. Pigafotta, from whom every historian of this remarkable voyage bor- rows so largely, concludes his narrative in language almost poetical : — " This, our wonderful ship, taking her departure from the Straits of Gibraltar, and sailing southwards through the great ocean towards the An- tarctic Pole, and then turning west, followed that course so long that, passing round, she came into the east, and thence again into the west, not by sailing back, but proceeding constintly forward ; so compassing about the globe of the world, until she marvellously regained her native country Spain." The crew on reaching Seville walked in their shirts, barefooted, and carrying tapers in their hands, to church, to offer thanks for their safe return ; eighteen men, out of sixty who sailed from the Moluccas, being all that came home in the Vitoria. The vessel itself became the theme of poets and romancers ; but though some have asserted that she was preserved till she fell to pieces, Oviedo, a contemporary writer, states that she was lost on her return from a voyage to St Domingo. The commander, Sebastian del Cano, escaped the neglect which was the common fate of Spanish discoverers. He was liberally rewarded, and obtained letters-patent of nobility, with a Globe for a crest, and the motto Primus me circumdedisti (You first encompassed me). The Trinidad was less fortunate than her consort. After having refitted, she attempted to recross the Pacific, but was nearly wrecked ; and being driven back, the crew were made prisoners by the Portuguese, whose jealousy of Spanish enterprise in these parts was now viokntly inflamed by ;the late transactions at the Moluccas. The voyage of Magellan was attended by the most important results ; it effected the communication so long desired between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans, and removed the barriers which had hitherto obstructed \\ CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF MAGELLAN. 01 European navigation in the latter sea. It opened a new .CHAP, IL path to the riches of India and the spices of the conti- New"way i;uous islands ; and in fact achieved what Columhus ami opened to O ' lit his companions had so long endeavoured to accomplish. It ascertained the southern boundary of the American continent, and the extent of the great sea which divides Asia from that portion of the globe. In its progress he discovered the Unfortunate Islands, the islands Saypan, Tinian, and Aguigan, four others of the group of the Ladrones, and the Philippines or Archipelago of St Demonstm- Lazarus. He also demonstrated the spherical form of *'°" °' *•'*' the earth beyond the possibility of doubt ; and accom- torm of the plished what had baffled, eve a on the threshold, every **''*''• drevious navigator. ■ '\t .. ' CHAP. III. Assumption by Spain. Dispntctl of iSp!ini»li Claims by roitugaL 62 FROM MAGELLAN TO TUE END CIIAI'TER TIT. Discoveries and Ciirumnavigatiori/t from Magellan to the. End of the Sijitecuth Century. Expedition r>:"IiOyaM(i — Discovery of Papua or New Guinea^ Voy- age of Saavedra— of Villalobos — Of Legaspi— Of Juan Fernan- dez — Expedition of Mcndann, and Discovery of the Solomon Islands — Jolin Oxenhani, the first Englishman that sailed on tim Pacific — Circumnavigation of Sir Francia Drake — Expedition of Sarniiento — Circumnavigation of Cavendish — His Second Voy- age — The Falkland Islands discovered — Expedition of Sir Richard Hawkins — Second Voyage of Mendanu — The Manpie- sas— Santa Cruz — Expedition of five Dutch Vessels — Circum- navigation of Van Noort— Iletrospect. Altj the seas and lands discovered by Magel'un were declared by Spain to be her exclusive possession, — an assumption which the other European States, especially Portugal, were unwilling to acknowledge. The privi- lege of sailing by this track to the Moluccas, as well as those islands themselves, the principal advantages gained by the recent discoveries, were claimed on the double title of the papnl grant and the alleged cession by the native princes. But John III., the Portuguese monarch, was equally tenacious of his rights. The old dispute as to a boundary and partition line was renewed, and referred to a convocation of learned cosmographers and skilful pilots, who met near Badajos, and parted as they met ; the commissioners of both crowns being alike obstinate in their claims. The respective governments were thus left to establish their rival pretensions as they should find most convenient ; and Spain, accordingly, lost no time in fitting out an expedition to secure the full benefit of Magellan's labours. } :U... OF THE SIXTl-KNXn CENTUIIY. 63 This nrniaincnt consisted of seven vessels, of which CHAP. III. Garc'ft Jofre de Loyasn, n kiii;>ht of St John, wns np- Nov.- armn- pointed captain-general ; Sehastian del Cano and other '"'^"' '^"'-'^ hurvivors of the former enterprise poing ont under his command. Tl'c squadron sailed from Corunna on the 24th July 1625. Every precaution havinrr hrjn taken to ensure the success of the voyage, the fleet at first proceeded prosperously. But accidents soon occurred, P.',^il^,*,^ ","/* and to the still imperfect state of nautical science we the voyage, must impute many of the suhsequent disasters of Loyasa. The captain-general was separated from the other ships ; the strait so lately discovered had already hecome uncertain ; Sehastian del Cano's vessel was wrecked near Cape de las Virglnes ; the others were injured ; one of them was forced to the southward,* and two, after suffering much damage, appear to have been conducted back to Spain. In short, it was April before they entered the sound ; the passage proving tedioub and dismal, and the crew having suffered much from the extreme cold. Few natives were seen, and ^''Pfrt',""^y those who appeared showed signs of a hostile disposition, probably from recollecting how their confidence was abused by their former visiters. On the 26th May, the fleet reached the South Sea, but was almost immediately dispersed in a storm. Two of the vessels steered for New Spain, and in their course endured much from Wnnt of pro- want of provisions ; the sailors having little else to subsist on than the birds which they caught in the visions. Of the two remaining ships, one ran aground * Tho Spaniards claim an important discovery in consequence of tliis accidental circiimsiance. Tlie San Lesmcs, a bark commanded by Francisco de Hozes, is reported to have been driven to 65° south in the j?ah?, anrl the laptain affirmed tiiat he had seen the end of Tierra del Fiiej^o. This a Spanisii writer supposes to have been Cape Horn ; while Burney thinks it more probable that it was Sta- ten Land, the certain discovery of which is, however, of much later date. The extent of projectinj^ land between the eastern entrance to the strait and Cape horn makes it unlikely that it could have been seen by the crew of the San Lesmes. — ChiiJii. Ili.t. of Discov. in South Sea, vol. i. p. 134. 64 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END llutiny and deaths. SufferinRs and priva- tiuns. CHAP. in. at the island of Sanghir, after the crew had mutinied and thrown overboard the captain, liis brotlier, and the j)ilot ; while the other, which carried the admiral and his second in command, held north-west. Both these officers were now sick ; and, four days after crossing the line, being the 30th of July 1626, Loyasa died, and Del Cano, who had weathered so many dangers, expired in less than a week. Alonzo de Salazar, who succeode*^ to the charge, steered for the Ladrones, and, in 1^*^' north, discovered the island which he named San Bar- tolome, the native appellation of which has been lately ascertained to be Poulousouk.* Between Magellan's Strait and the latitude now specified, thirty-eight of the seamen perished, and the survivors were so enfeebled that they thought proper to entrap eleven Indians to work the pumps. Salazar, the third connnander, died ; and it was November before they came to anchor at Zamafo, a port in an island belonging to their ally the King of Tidore. On reaching the Molucqis, disputes immediately arose between the Spaniards and the Por- tuguese governor settled at Temate ; and a petty mari- time warfare ensued, which was prosecuted several years with various degrees of activity and success, — the people of Tidore supporting their former friends, while those of Ternate espoused the cause of their rivals. In the course of this j^ear, 1626, Papua was dis- covered by Don Jorge de Meneses, in his passage from Malacca to the Spice I4ands, of which he liad been ap- pointed governor by the court of Portugal. About the same period, Diego da Rocha made himself acquainted with the islands De Sequcii'a ; believed to be a part oi those which in modorn times bear the name cf Pek w, and belong to the extensive archipelago of ttie Caro- lines.t In the course of the following summer, the DiscoTcry of I'apua. * Voyage aiitoiir du Monde, pa- M. L. de Freycinet. Hislorique, tcrme ii. pp. d9, 7<>' f " Leslies qu'il [Dio^'o du Rocha] norama Seqiieira, ne j)arois. sent etre aiitres, eii eft'el, que les Matelotas^ sitnecs dans I'E. N. E. des Palaos." — Freycinet, bi op. cit., tome ii. p. 7tJ. OP THE SIXTEENTH CENTCRY. 65 fourth captain-general of Loyasti's squadron died, as was alleged, by poison administered at the instigation of the Portugueae governor ; and shortly afterwards, liis ship, wliicli had been much damaged by repeated actions, was declared unfit for the homeward voyage. In the same season, the celebrated Ilernan Cortes equipped tiiree vessels for the Spice Isles, which sailed from New Spain on the eve of All Saints under the command of his kinsman Alvaro de Smivedra. Two {)f them were almost immediately separated from tlie admiral, who, pursuing his course alone, after leaving the Ladrones, discovered on Twelfth Day a cluster of islands, to which, from this circumstance, he gave the name of Los Reyes, or The Kings.* The men were naked, Sfive a pL'ce of matting about their middle, — tall robust, and swarthy, with long hair, and rough beards They had large canoes, and were armed with cane lances. When Saiivedra, after a run of little more than two months, reached the Moluccas, he was immediately attacked by the Portuguese, but supported by his countrymen, the residue of Loyasa's fleet, who had now built a brigantine. Having completed his cargo, he sailed for New Spain on the Sd June 1528, — an eastward voyage that for a series of years baffled tlie most skilful navigators. Land was reached, which the Spaniards named Isla del Oro, in the belief that it abounded in gold. TJ^ere is, however, reason to con- clude that it was Papua, afterwards called New Guinea, fron, the resemblance between the natives and the negroes on the coast of Africa. They were black, with short crisped hair, and had the featuies of that dis- tinctive race of Polynesia, since termed Oceanic negroes, who are found in many of those groups which are scattered throughout the vast Pacific, sometimes mixed with the other great family by which these islands are CHAP. III. Treafliury of the Tditu- guese. Hcmnn Curtes eqiiipj an cxpeiii- tion. Arrival at the Koluccas. Pnpna or New Guinea • They are included in tlie Carolii'e ranpi. and are supposed to be identical with tin; K^oi IsUnds oi the jjreMiut iuuj>!>. — i' nycinet, tome ii. p. 7i>> ->.^,f>»V* MRMIIP m PROM MAGELLAN TO THE END Second voyiiKC for New Spain, Islaiult). CHAP. III. peopled, but generally apart. Saavcdra, finding the — wind unfavourable, was obliged to return to the Mo- luccas ; nor was his second attempt to reach New Spain, in the following year, more fortunate. In this voyage he once more touched at Papua. When formerly there he had made three captives, two of Avhom, on again seeing the beloved shores of their native land, plungid into the sea M'hile the ship was yet distant ; but the third, who was more tractable, and had by this time been baptized, remained as envoy from his new friends to his ancient countrymen, and to establish an amicable traffic. When the vessel neared the beach, he also left htr, in order to swim ashore ; but, without being allowed to land, he was assailed and murdered, as an outcast and renegade, in presence of his Christian pa- Thti Cnvoiine trons. A group of small islands (part of the Carolines) in 7° north, were, from the circumstance of the natives being tattooed or painted, named Los Pintados. To the north-east of this cluster, several low ones, well peopled, were discovered, and named Los Buenos Jardines.* At this place Saavedra dropped anchor, and the inhahitants drew near the shore, waving a flag. A number of men came on board accompanied l>y a female, who touched each of the Spaniards in succession, and was from that circumstance supposed to be a sorceress brougiit for the purpose of discovering what kind of beings they were. Both sexes were light-complexioned and tattooed. The women were beautiful, with agreeable features and long black hair, and wore dresses of fine matting. Saavedra, on landing, was met by a promiscuous band advancing in a certain order, with tambourines and festal songs. To gratify the curiosity of their chief, a musket was fired, which struck them with such terror that the greater part immediately fled in their canoes to a station Appearance fit the women. * " Nous recnnnoissons dans les prnmicros [Los Piistados] iiiie portion des iles Ralik, et dans les secor.des [Los Buenos Jardinrsj iV'xtremito noid des liadak, jrroupe explore long-ti-irps apres [nnO-17] par le capitaine russe Kotzebue." — Froycinot, Lome ii. OP THE SIXTEENTH CENTl'RY. 07 three leagues distant, whence they were with difficulty chap. iir. induced to return. These islands afforded abundance of ^isn^s of cocoa-nuts and other vegetable productions. The com- tiie Spmiish mander died soon after leaving the Good Gardens ;* ^'^y"^"'^^'*- and, after vainly attempting to reach New Spain, the sliip once more returned to the Moluccas. After sus- taining many varieties of fortune, the Spaniards, finding that they could procure no reinforcements from their own country, consented to abandon the settlement, on condition of being furnished with means to convey tl'cm home. They accordingly departed fur Cochin in Return to 1534, but did not reach Europe till 1537, after an ^"''^i'*-'- absence of twelve years. " 'J'hough the honour," says Barney, " of sending forth the second ship that en- circled the globe cannot be claimed by the Spanish nation, it is nevertheless a justice due to the memory of the few of Loyasa's and Saavedra's men who reached their native country, to notice them as the navigators who the second time performed tliat tour." 'I' Several voyages had in the mean time boon attempted Privnto i u by private adventurers ; but they all proved abortive, ^'^'^'^^"''■"i"* • To Saavedra is ascribed the bold idea of ciittiii!^ a canal from sea to sea ihroii^li tlie Istiimus of Daricn. Tins project, which has been often nnived, V(*ry eur.y enj^aned the attention of Spain. It is discussed in Jos. Acosta's Ilistoiy of the Iiuiies, — wIjo ur^es against the desitrn an opinion, that one sea beinj^ hi^lu-r than the otl>er, the undcrtukinj^ must be atter.di'd by soino awl'nl calamity to the ji^lobe. Observations made under the patrona;^e of Bolivar, and completed in 182!i, seem to show that ihe levels of the two oceans are different ; but as our ideas of a canal no l'in>>-er imply a channel through which the waters ot the one sea should f!()W into the other, the approhens^ions that occurred to tlio Spani><li historian have ceased to appal us. The chie!' ob: tade is tlie enor- mous expense ; tor it seems now to be sulliciently proved that either a canal or a railway is (juite practicable (See Ri.vai So- ciety Tran.-actioos lor IfJMO; ; — indeed, it is reported that the con- •strnctiun of tin; latter has been licterminod on by ihe ^'overnment of New Granada. A cut was in fact made in IjliBj connect inj^ a tributary of the San Juan with a biauch of the Quito, and thus openiuL^ a coniuiunicatiun between ihe Atlantic and the Pacilic, durin;; ihe rainy i-ea^on, for the canoes of the countiy, \Nhich draw liom one to two I'eet of water. •|- Cliron. Hist, of Discov. in South Sea, vol, i. p. IGl. t^ 68 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END \\ ■f CHAP. IIL and the passage by Magellan's Straits, as well as the schemes which began to be entertained for opening a communication through the Istiimus of Darien, were abandoned, when, in 1629, the Emperor Charles V. mort- Cession of gaged or ceded to Portugal his right to all tiie ishxnds the Spanish west of the Ladrones, for 350,000 ducats (£1 08, 1 81 , los.) cliiims to till mi T • • ■ ii ^ ti rortuguese. ihe discoveries now openmg in other quarters likewise contributed to divert attention from this point. Tlie peninsula of California was visited a few years after- wards. Its gulf and outer shores were examined by Cortes in 1536 ; new settlements were also every year rising in Mexico and Peru, which engrossed the cares of the Spanish governor ; and it was not till the year 1642, New Spanish that, forgetting the cession to Portugal, a squadron was squadiou. once more fitted out, destined for the Archipelago of St Lazarus. This was the work of Mendoza, viceroy of Mexico, and the command was intrusted to his brother- in-law, Ruy Lopez de Villalobos. He discovered the island of San Tomas, in latitude 18° 30' north, and a cluster, whicli he named EI Coral. On the 6th January 1543, at 85 leagues from the Coral Isles, the fleet passed ten islands belonging to the group of the Carolines, and probably the same with Saavedra's Gardens. — The Fctticmentin squadion coasted along Mindanao, and on reaching Sar- rangan, an island near the south part of Mindanao, re- solved to establish in it that settlement which was the chief purpose of their expedition. This the natives, though at first hospitable and friendly, stoutly opposed ; but the captain-general, having already taken formal possession of all the islands for the emperor, deleruiined to make good his point, and accordinj^iy, attacking their forces, compelled them to retreat. Here the Spaniards raised their first harvest of Indian corn in the Philip- I)ines, — the name now given by Villalobos to the archi- pelago, in compliment to the Prince- royal of Spain. The inhabitants of several islands in a short time be- came more friendly ; traffic was established ; and this success once more excited the jealous apprehensions oi the Portuguese, and induced them to foment intrigues tli^' Philip, pines. OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 60 Is r among the native chiefs who favoured the different European leaders. In the progress of events, the con- duct of Villalohos was maiked by perfidy to the allies he had gained, and by treachery to his sovereign. In despite of the remonstrances of his officers, he accepted unworthy terms from the Portuguese, and provided himself a passage home in one of their ships. But his main object was defeated, for he died at Amboyna of sickness and chagrin, — thus eluding the vengeance of the country which he had betrayed. The commencement of a new reign is a period pro- verbial for energy and activity. Among the first acts of Philip II. was an order issued to the Viceroy of Mexico ibr the final conquest of the Philippines. The Fray Andres de Urdaneta, a celebrated cosmographer and navigator, who, after sailing with Loyasa, had be- come a monk, was requested to accompany an expedi- tion for this purpose ; and to him the honour was given of nominating the captain-general, his own profession forbidding him to hold any secular rank. His choice fell upon Miguel Lopez de Lcgaspi, a person of great prudence, who sailed with four ships from Navidad in New Spain on the 21st November 1504. On the 9th January following, they discovered a small island, which they named De los Barbudos, on account of the large beards of the natives, and next morning a circle of islets, which were called De los Plazeres, from the shoals which ran between them. A similar group were perceived on the 12th, named L^-.s Ilermanas, or The Sisters ; and are supposed to be the same with the Pes- cadores and Arrecifes of modern charts. The squadron touched at the Ladrones, and without seeing other land made the Philippines, where, according, to the sealed orders received from the king, they were to form a settlement. On the 13th of February, they anchored near the east part of the island Tandaya. The natives wore the semblance of friendship ; and an alliance was made with the chiefs, according to the customs of their country, the parties drawing blood from their arms and CHAP. HI. Renewed jealousy jif the Poitu- gucse. Accession of Philip II. , New exposi- tion ol dis- covery. Arrival at tlie Phdii)- piues. FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END SitiRuliir ])le(lgi; of inutiml fldciity. violence of tlie Spanl ards. s t CHaP. III. breasts, and mingling it with wine or water, in which they pledged mutual fidelity.* In this ceremony the captain-general declined to join, alleging that there was no person on the other side of sufficient rank to contract with him. The Indians, however, could not be so far ensnared as to become the dupes of European policy, re- marking that the Spaniards gave " good words but bad workij." The fleet sailed from place to place, but small progress was made in gaining the confidence of the people, who were now fully alive to the intentions of their visiters. One station after another was abandoned, and though a good understanding was established with the chief of Bohol, with whom Legaspi performed the ceremony of bleeding. Zebu was at last selected as the Jealousy and centre of colonization. There the Spaniards carried matters in a higher tone than they had hitherto as- sumed. The tardiness of the people to acknowledge the offered civilities of the voyagers was used as a pretext for aggression, and the foundation of the first Spanish colony in the Philippines was laid in the ashes of the sacked capital. Ilostilitirs continued to be waged for a time between the islanders and the invaders ; but at last a peace was concluded. Tlie news of the settle- ment was cariied back to America by the Fray Andres Urdaneta, the pilot-monk, who sailed on the first June, and on the third of October reached Acapulco, — an ex- ploit highly extolled at the time, as the passage across the Pacific from west to east, so necessary to facilitate the communication between the Philippines and the mother-country, had hitherto baffled every navigator. By following a course to the 43d degree of north latitude fair winds were obtained ; and the homeward voyage long continued to be made to Now Spain by the same track, which acquired the name of Urdaneta's Pas-age. The occupation of Manilla soon followed that of Zebu, Urdaneta's passage. * The classii'!\I reader will not need to ho reminded that Ilero- d<^tiis reconls similar customs as prevalciit anion^ the Scythians uiid ulhei' nations. M mmmmmir^ ^B!F OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTUItV. 71 le re le and became the insular capital of the Spaniards in the cnAP. ill. eastern world. Geograpliical discovery and maritime enterprise were Oc":ipiitioii now to receive a new spirit from that extraordinary "*^^'*"'^"- • career of conquest which, commenced by Hernan Cortes almost contemporaneously with the voyage of Magellan, had already extended over the greater part of the west- ern coast of South America. In the year 1663, Juan jnnTi Fernandez, a Spanish pilot, in the passage from Peru to i'i;"""»'^»' the new establislmients in Chili, had stood out to sea in the hopes of finding favourable winds, and in his progress descried two islands ; one of which was called Mas-afuera, while the other received the name of its discoverer, and has since acquired much celebrity as the supposed scene of Defoe's romance of Robinson Crusoe. In the year 1567, Lopez Garcia de Castro, the viceroy ExpcfUtinn of Peru, fitted out the first expedition which sailed fjj,\fpen7 from that country expressly for the purpose of discovery. He intrusted the command to Alvaro de IMendana de Neyra, who departed from Callao, the port of Lima, on the 10th of January. Having directed his progress westward a distance which is variously stated by dif- ferent writers, he reached a small island inhabited by copper-coloured savages, and named it the Isla de Jesus. Shortly after, he discovered a large shoal, which he islands dis- called Baxos de la Candelaria (Candlemas Shoals), and ^"^ '^'*^'^- from this descried an extensive land, for which he set sail, and anchored in a harbour, that received the ap- pellation of Santa Ysabel de la Estrella (St Isabel of the Star). The inhabitants were of a bronze complexion, had woolly hair, and wore no covering save round thoir waists. They were divided into tribes, and engaged in continual warfare with one another. They seemed to be cannibals ; but their usual food consisted of cocoa- nuts, and a species of root which they called venaus. Having first, with the characteristic devotion of the age, caused mass to be celebrated on these new-found shores, Mendana constructed a brig large enough to carry tliiity men, which was despatched to explore the 72 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END il i»Iillldd. CFJAP. iiL neighbouring coasts. The result was the discovery ot ArchTpeiago ^^ archipelago consisting of eighteen islands, some of of eiRiitccn which were found to be 300 leagues in circumference, "* " * though of several others no definite knowledge was obtained. The names of Santa Ysabel, Guadalcanal, Malaita, San Christoval, and El Nombre de Dios, were bestowed on the principal ones ; while the group re- Tiio s-iiomon ceived the general appellation of the Solomon Islands, from a belief that they had supplied the gold and treasure employed in the building of the Temple.* The air was extremely salubrious ; the fertile soil offered ample resources for a dense population, and the rivers washed down great quantities of the precious metals. Tliis archipelago, however, was not explored without several rencounters taking piaffe between the Spaniards and the savages, who fought with much valour. After this rapid survey, Mendana returned to Peru in the beginning of March 1568. Many years passed ere any farther knowledge of his discoveries was sought ; and their situation long furnished a perplexing theme for the discussion of geograpliers. In the year 1574, Juan Fernandez visited two small islands lying near the continent of America, which were named San Felix and San Amber. About the same period, a discovery is ascribed to him of a more doubtful character. Sailing from the coast of Chili, Juan Fciuandez. * The minds of the early discoverers seem to liave been con- stantly inflamed by the description of the wealth of Solomon, who " made silver to be in Jerusalem as stones," and whose " drinking vesseU were of fjold, and all the vessels of the house of the forest of Lebanon were of pure gold ; none were of silver ; it was nothing accounted of in the daj's of Solomon." — 1 Kings, x. 21, 27. The land of Ophir, from which the navy of Hiram brought gold ami "great plenty of almug-trees, and precious stones," was the object of continual search; and Columbus, among his other dreams, be< licved that he found this source of Jewish splendour in Hispaniola and Veragua — Irving's Colnmbus, vol. iii. p. 251, and vol. iv. p. 51). Tiie true position of Ophir is yet a questio vexata among geo- graphers. It has been placed in India, in Arabia, in Africa, and even in Peru. Etymolo^j', the never failing support of such spe- culations, comes in aid of this last hypothesis with tlie expressior " gold of Parvaim." i i ! OP THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 73 tihoiit the latitude of 40° south,* he is reported to have chap. ill. reached, after a voyage of a month, the coast of a con- -— ■ tinent which seemed to be very fertile and well culti- discoveiies. vntcd. The people were white, wore fine attire, and were of an amiable and peaceful disposition. Several large rivers fell into the sea, and altogether it "appeared much better and richer than Peru." This country has been supposed by some to be New Zealand ;. others are inclined wholly to discredit the voyage; and the data are certainly too meagre to warrant the identification of this supposed continent with any of the islands in the Pacific known to geography. The year 1575 witnessed the first launching of a bark j^^^ oxm- by an English seaman in the waves of the South Sea, — ham. a feat which was accomplished by John Oxenham, a native of Plymouth. Landing on the north side of Darien, he marched across the neck of land ; and having built a small vessel, he intrusted himself to the ocean, and steered for the Pearl Islands. There he captured {;j,c(.j,j,8 and two rich prizes, and returned with his spoil to recrosa late. the isthmus, — an attempt in which he was slain. Unfortunate as was the issue of this enterprise, it did not chill the ardour nor damp the courage of our * It is to be ro^retted that tlie learned Bnrney shouhl have les- sened the value of liis important work by the h)ose and unschohirlike i'asliion of departing' from the words of liis author, even while pre- tending to nuote literally. This practice has led him into numerous mistakes. 1 bus, in relatinjr the discovery of Fernandez, he takes oc- casicm to quote the Memorial of Doctor Juan Luis Arias, published by Ualrymple (Hist. Coll., vol. i. p. 53), as to the following ef- fect: — "Arias says, ' The pilot, .Juan Vernandez, sailed from the coast of Chili, a Utile more or less than forty degrees, in a small ship, with certain of his companions,' &c." — Ciiion. Hist, of Dis- cover}', vol. i. p. 300. But the passage, as it stands in Dalrym- ple, 's materially different: "A pilot, named Juan Kernandez, who discovered the track from Lima to Chili, by ti^oing' to the westward (which till then had been made with much difficulty, as they kept along shore, where the southerly winds almost constantly prevail), sailing from the coast of Chili, about the latitude of forty de- qrees. little more or less, in a small ship, with some of his compan- ons," &c. — Vol. i. p. 63. It will be seen that Burney thus quotes Arias as specifying the longitude, while :a truth he only indicates the latitude. .«»«tMBMWA» MMklW 'N 71 FROM MAGFLT.AN TO THE END Sir Francis DruUe. ! I R^firms In tliu i'acific. CliAr. TIL countrymen. Within two years Avas conimonced the first voyage round the globe performed by tiie British, in the person of the renowned Sir Francis Drake. When, from a "goodly and great high tree" on the Isthmus of Daricn, this bold navigator first saw the South Sea, we arc told that "he besought Almighty God of his goodness to give him life and leave to sail once in an English s'iip in that sea." Several years elapsed before this wish was gratified ; but at length, on the 13th December 1677, he was enabled to set sail from Plymouth with a fleet of five vessels, bearing 164 men. He made the eastern inlet to the Straits of Magellan on the 20th of August, and in seventeen days after entered the Pacific. Here he encountered a succession of storms, during one of which he was driven far to the southward, when, it is probable, he discovered Cape Horn. " He fell in," says an old naiM or, " with the uttermost part of land towards the South Pole ; which uttermost cape or headland of all these islands, stands near in the SGtli degree, without which there is no main nor island to be seen to the southwards, but the Atlantic Ocean and the South Sea meet in a large and free scope." When the weather became fair, Drake stood to the northward, and cruised along the coasts of Chili, Peru, and Mexico, cap- turing the vessels of the Spaniards and plundering their towns. In the hope of finding a north-east passage or strait, he still continued his course, and explored a country, which he named New Albion, to the 48th de- gree of north latitude. It was tlien determined to run westward, and return to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope. After sailing sixty-eight days, he discovered some islands, to which he gave the name of the Thieves, and which have been conjectured to be identical with some of those called the Pelew in the Caroline archi- pelago.* From these he proceeded to the Philippines ; Cnpture of prizes. I-lanf1s dia- cijvered. * " Drake decouvrit des lies, qn'il nomma Islands of Thieves, et qui paroissent etre les iles situees au siid de Yap. Elles portent sur lu carte No. 7 de notre Atlas hydro^raphique, le noni d'iles OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 7'» and after touching nt Java and other places, set sail for CIIA?. III. England. On the 15th June 1500, he passed the southern p,,sfiiure of point of Africa, wliicli> ^ays an old author, " is a most "/« ti.ipe of stately thing, and the fairest cape we m\v in the whole ^^ ^^' circumference of the earth ;" * and on the 20th of Sep- teniher anchored safely at Plymouth, after an absence of two years and nearly ten months. In geographical dis- covery Drake's voyage was barren, but it gave a new spirit to the maritime enterprise of Britain, and brought wealth and fame to its commander. Queen Elizabeth iiononmbio honoured him by dining on board his ship, where she n^'i"''" "*" also conferred the distinction of kniglithood ; for many years his vessel was preserved at Deptford ; and a chair, made from one of her planks and presented to the Uni- versity of Oxford, lias been celebrated by the muse of Cowley.t Tiie unexpected appearance of Drake in the South Aiiim of tiie Sea was a matter of serious alarm to the Spaniards. Si.auiaids. Their exclusive navigation of that ocean was now gone ; and instead of gathering in peace the treasures which the islands in its bosom, and the opulent empires on its margin, might afford, they perceived that henceforth they would have to contend for their riches with a powerful and ambitious enemy. In fact, they soon saw the English successfully penetrating the Magellanic Renpwcd Straits, — a channel so difficult as to have given rise to a attention to saying, "that the passage had closed up.'* It had, lauicsfn ■'« indeed, been little frequented by the Spaniards, who, it may be conjectured, found a more profitable employ- ment in the colonization of their lecent conquests. But the havoc which Drake carried along their coasts once more attracted their attention to the Straits, and, in 1579, Pedro Sarmiento do Gamboa was despatched Lamnleao Ouron. I^'ile Yap est nominee aussi Eup par quehiuea auteurs." — Freycinet, tome ii. p. 77» • Ilakluyt, vol. iii. p. 742. ■f A copious narrative of the Life and Voyafi^es of Drake has already appeared in the Edinburj;h Cabinet Library, No. V. Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendihh, and Dainpier. ^PBWsniBS 76 CHAP. III. Kxpedltion of Do Glim- buu. Piifferlnps Hlld fililUl'C ot the colony. I Expedition of Cuveuilisli. Plunclorinff of tlie Spaul- uidd. I ■• i' PROM MAGELLAN TO THE END from Lima to survey them, ond report the result of his observations. In pursuance of his advice, it was deter- mined to fit out a powerful armament, with a design of fortifying the narrows, and thus closing against hostile intrusion what they considered the only portal of the Pacific. The fate of this expedition was singularly disastrous ; nor was it until after making repeated attempts and sustaining much loss that they effected an entrance. Two cities were founded, named Nomhre de Jesus and San Felipe, and peopled hy Europeans, who had a supply of provisions for only eight months. On his voyage to Spain, the captain was token prisoner by an English cruiser belonging to Sir Walter Raleigh. II is unfortunate colony was speedily reduced to the greatest miseries ; no attempt was made to send them succours from home ; and, being thus abandoned to want and the frightful inclemencies of the weather, sad ravages were made among them. Only two who sur- vived these dreadful suiferings returned to their native country. The path to the South Sea once laid open, no long time elapsed ere it again became the scene of English adventure. In 1586, Mr Thomas Cavendish, a gentle- man of the county of SuiFolk, fitted out, at his own expense, an expedition to the Pacific, and sailed from Plymouth on the 21st July. He reached the Straits of Magellan on the Gth January following, and cleared their farther outlet on the 24th of February. Like Drake, the object he had in view was plunder ; and, like that navigator too, he stood along the western coast of America, cp.rrying fire and sword wherever he went. At Icngthj in November, glutted with spoil, he steered across the ocean, and in January 1588 made the Ladrone Islands. In the passage homeward he touched at St Helena, and first communicated to England its capabilities and advantages. He arrived at Plymouth on the 9th September, having circumnavigated the globe in two years and fifty days, — a period shorter than that required by either of his predecessors. OP THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 77 The chief contrlbut which iscovcry " '^ ik' to CHAP. IJo.<ults of Isluiids. this voyage geography was the discovery of Port Desire on the cast coast of Patagonia. In a lucrative point of view it was tiic voyugo. 80 successful, that Cavendish resolved to engage in another expedition to the same quarter of the globe. Accordingly, he again left England, and, after a voyage of seven months, he entered the Striit of Magellan, on the 14th cf April 1692. Dispirited by the storms which he encountered there, he determined, on the 15th of May, to retrace his course towards the coast of Brgzil, and soon afterwards died on his pissage home. The voyage, though its results were not very gratify- niscovpr>- of ing, was marked by an incident of some imjjortnnce. tiu! FaikhuiJ After repassing the Straits, one of the vessels under the command of Captain Davis, was aeparated from the squadron, and having met with adverse gales, was " driven in among certaine Isles never before discovered by any knov en relation, lying fiftie leagues or better from the shoare, east and northerly from the Streights, in which place, uulesse it had pleased God of his won- derful) mercie to have ceased the winde, wee must ot necessitie have perished." * On this group he seems to have bestowed no name ; but they are now known by the designation of the Falkland Islands.t After this occurrence Davis succeeded in reaching tlie South Sea ; but, returning almost immediately, his sliip eventually (aptain arrived at Bearhavcn in Ireland, in June 1593, with J^Jivis. only sixteen persons remaining of seventy-six who left England. Of the expeditions now briefly noticed, which constitute so important an era in the naval history of this country, and abound with spirit-stirring adventures, a copious narrative has been given in a preceding volume of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library. J • Haklryt, vol. iii. n, tu 8,6. •)" Burn y seems to have been amontr the first to vindicate Davis' claim to tlie discovery of this {^ronp, wnicli it was supposed was for- irerlyseen by Sir Ricliard Hawkins. — Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iu p. 103. ;}: Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendish, and Danipier. For a further account of Davis, one of England's most intrepid seamen, t 78 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END Capture of his vessel. CHAP. IIL We hav shortly to mention yet another expedition fitted out in the reign of Elizabeth. This was under- Expeditionof taken by Sir Richard Hawkins, who sailed from Ply- .sir ijiciuud mouth on the 12th of June 1593. In his passage towards the Strait, he observed the islands formerly seen by Davis, though he appears to have considered them as r.ltogether unknown. " The land," he says, " for that it was discovered in the "ligne of Queene Elizabeth, my souereigne lady and mistris, and a niayden queene, and at my cost and aduenture, in a perpctuall inen^.ory of her chastitie, and remembrance of my ende- vours, I gave it the name of Hawkins' Maiden- land."* Si>' Richard reached the South Sea, and began to follow the example of his more illustrious predecessors, Drake and Cavendish ; but his fortune proved very different. On the 22d of June 1594, his ship was cai)tured near Cape de San Francisco, and carried into Panama, in honour of which event that city was illuminated. This was the last voyage in the Pj>oitic made by English navigators for many years Tlie course of our narrative accordingly turns again to the expeditions of the Spaniards. In 1594, Philip IL, in a letter to the Viceroy of Peru, recommended " the encouragement of enterprises for new discoveries and settlements, as the best means to disembarrass the land Irom many idle gentry ;" and, in compliance with this suggestion, an armament was prepared next year to effect a settlement in the island of San Christoval, one of the Solomon archipelago, visited, as has been already narrated, in 15(57. Tlie fleet con- sisted of four vessL'ls supplied with 878 men, of whom 280 were soldiers ; it was commanded by Alvaro de Mend ana, by who n the islands had been discovered, under the title of Adelantado, and the chief pilot was Plans of Philip iL who, having pflPected discoveries in the extreme refriona of the north and the south wliich have imniortahzed his ninve, was doomed to uerish in a quarrel in tiie Kast Indies, the reader is referred to the K arr.itive olDiscovery and Adventure in tlie Polar Seas and Uegions. • Turclias, vol. iv. p. 1384. i!!l^ r'i lie ilS, OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTLUY. 7t Pedro Fernandez de Quiroo, — a name whicli afterwards chap. Iif. became famous in the annals of nautleal adventure. „ "" . mi 1 1 1 • 1 1 I • -r" 1 lA PlO]iMratl"i'..'J Ihe adelantado was accompanied by Ii;s wite, tlic Donna lo: coioniza- Ysabel Berreto, and, as was usual in those days, a cer- '^°"' tain number of priests sailed on board tlie armada. On the 16th of June 1595, Mendana, leaving Payta, pursued a course nearly due west until the 21.st July, when he was in bititude 10° 60' S., and, by the reckon- ing of Q,uiros, 1000 leagues distant from Lima. On that day an island was di-jcvercd and named La Madalena ; Discovery <f and the adelantado, believing it to be the land he sought, '"'"' •^''"" there was much rejoicmg among the crew, and 2e JJeum laiidamus was sung with great devotion. Next day, when they drew near the shore, there sallied forth in rude procession about seventy canoes, and at the same time many of the inhabitants made towards the ships by swimming. They were in complexion nearly white, of good stature, and finely formed ; and on their faces and bodies were delineated representations of fishes and other devices. TIk Spanish chroniclers extol the gentle manners and the beauty of these natives very highly. " Thei'e came," says Figueroa,"' '• among others, two lads piddling their canoe, whose cj'es were fixed on the ship ; they had beautiiul faces, and the most promising animation of countenance ; and were in all things so becoming, that the pilot-mayor (Quiros) affirmed nothing in his life ever caused him so much regret as tlu; having such fine creatures to be lost in that country." Short TnTitmrnt ..f as was the mtercourse whieli the Sj)aniaras had witii these gentle savages, it was marked by bloodished and * " IIi'clios (le Don Carcia Iliirtado di' Moiidoza Quarto iNfar- quos de C;iii<'to, por I'-l Di rtnr Cliristoval Siian'Z de I'lgiicroa. iNladiid, KJKJ." An almost lilcral translation of so niiKli of this work as relates to MendMna's voy li^e will tie loiuid i;i I 'ali Nniole's Ilisl. Coll., vol i. pp. 'i7-I(4and l!»;')--JO;{. i'liis transiatioii hasheeu used in tlie present jiecouiit. 'I'iirre lias hien preserved another narrative of tlie voya^^^e in a letter written by I'eiiro Kei naiidez de Qiiiios, the pili.t-inayir, to Don Antonio Meij^a. and pnhlished hy iiim in "Siicesos de i.'.s Philipiiuv'. Mexieo, ItiU'J." Tliis is also lo be found in Dalr\i!ij,)!eV e.wedent wmk. If m m % 80 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END CHAP, !!I Nnmpsof Uu RlMlip ut IttlunUs. Ceremony of t.'iking pos- New cotir'^e imrsucU. Pissntisfac- tidii ol'tlio crew. violence. When Mendana had passed the south end of La Madalena, he descried three otlier islands, and this civeumstance for the first time convinced him that he was not among the Solomon group. He named these newly discovered ones La Dominica, Santa Christina, and San Pedro, and gave to the whole cluster the title of Las Marquesas de Mendoza. A spacious harbour was soon observed in Santa Christina, and named Port Madre de Dios ; and the fleet having been safely anchored, the adelantado and the Lady Ysabel landed. On tliis occa- sion mass was performed with much ceremony, tlie natives standing silently by, kneeling when tlie strangers knelt, and endeavouring generally to imitate their ges- tures. Prayers were then said, and in the name of the King of Spain possession was taken of the islands, — a formality which was completed by the sowing of some maize. A large party of soldiers being left on shore, soon fell into hostilities with the natives, drove them from their houses, and hunted them with slaughter into the woods. ' At length, on the 5th of August, the adelantado set sail from Las Marquesas, assuring the crews that on the third or fourth day they would reach the Solomons. More than a fortnight passed, however, and no land was seen, till on the 20th they discovered four small and low- islands with sandy beaches, and covered with palms and other trees. Tiiese were named San Bernardo, and a similar one, descried nine days alter, was, from its lonely situation, called La Solitaria. It has been conjectuied to be identical with one of the Desventuradas of Magel- lan.* The ships passed on, pursuing the same course, but discontent and disappointment soon broke out on board. Of the land, long since predicted by the adelan- tado as near at hand, no signs had yet apiieared ; and some of the crew scrupled not to say that they were going no one knew whither. Amid these nuirinurs ot dissatisfaction, Mendana, we are told, went about with 11 Burney, Chroii. Hist Discov., vol. ii, u. 1/5. OP THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 81 >nnti\ Cr;iz (U . SCO ve roil. n rosary evr in his Imnd, wearing an air of devotion CHAP, ill, and severely veprchcnding all profanene.ss of speech. On tiie night of tlie 7th of September, land was at length perceived; and on that same night one of the vessels disappeared and was no more seen. At snnrise the land was ascertained to be an is]an<l of large extent ; and was forthwith named Santa Cruz. Another wa.s seen to the northward, on which there was a volcano in great activity. When first observed, it had a regularly formed peak ; but this \^as destroyed a few days after by an eruption of such violence as to be fejt on boavd the ships, though at the distance of ten leagues. The natives were immediately recognised by Mendana as of a kindred race with the inhabitants of tiie Solomons, yet they appeared to speak a ditfercnt language. Their hair was woolly, and frequently stained wliite, red, and other colours ; they had ornaments of bone or teeth round their necks, and used bows and arrows. Their \yaif<'«owi;h warlike disposition was evinced by their commencing an attack on the Spaniards. This was, indeed, (juiekly repelled ; but the ferocity of the savages and the cruelty of the voyagers kept up a continued warfare during- tlieir stay. The adelantado at length detcrmineci to form a settlement on the margin of a boy, which from its goodly aspect was named La Graciosa. The ground was soon eieared and several liouses built. Sedition and mutiny, however, now made their appearance, and it ^'^"^^'"5' ""'^ was found necessary to punish three of the conspinit(n's with death. The hdmmanity of his people towards the natives reached at the same time a htiight altogother nnj)recedcnted- A chietj Malipe, whoui Quiros calls " our greatest friend and lord of the island," was mur- dered by some of the crew, apparentiy without the slightest cause or pretext ; though, to tlie honour of Mendana, it should be m.entioned tliat he inflicted d(iatU on the perj)etrators of this cruel outrage. But this was among the last of liis acts, disease and care having aireatly reduced hi.ii to the utmost extremity. On the 17th of October, which wua marked by a total eclipse of the :m f WWWNHHKlW^lilMIUilMVBHIIIIIIi^^ MMIIlii 82 FUOM MAGELLAN TO THE END n Df'.Hl! of Meadaua, Ills diarac li.r. CHAP. III. 11100") ^^6 made his will, leaving liia authority to his wife. Donna Ysahel, and constituting her brother, Don Lorenzo Berreto, captain-gencrai under her. He was so weak that ho could scarcely subscribe his name to this document, and he only 8\irvivcd tiil midjiight. His character mav be given in the words of Figueroa : " He was known to be very eager to acconiplish what- ever lie put haiid to ; he was zealous for the iionour of God and the service of the king ; of higii mind, which had engaged luia in tlie former voyages and discoveries ; good actions gave him pleasure, and he detested bad ; he was very courteous and sweet- tenjpered ; not too apt to give reason?, and therefore not desirous of tliem ; more solicitous of works than words. He appeared to be well in regard to his owii couj'jcience. He never passed ibr high,, so that it was the opij\ion that he knew more than lie performed.'"'' The melancholy rites of burial were celebrated with suitable pomp. The coffin wa>ji borne on tlie shoulders of eight officers, and tlie soldiers marched with, muskets reversed, and dragging their colours in li»e dust. Penth i!f {he. Shortly after, tlie new captain-general was wounded new cHptaiu- j^j g^ skirmish with the natives, and died on the 2d November. The vicar soon followed him, — " a loss," savs Figueroa, "such as the sins of these unfortuna!:e pilgrims deserved ; it served as a stroke to tell them tlu'y were displeasijig to God, when,, after so maJiy cor- poreal aiHictions, he took from tlicm their spiritu:il * I3uniey scenss to have been disposed to inolv only on the ilaik siJo of ;MeH(lana\s cliaractcr; " His nicrit.s," it is ohservefl, "as a navi,,;atvir, or as a couunaricier. liave not coiiti'il)iiti''d towards itni- tieiinjj; liiin conspicuous; i.i/id it is remarked in liijueroa thai I'lis death nuis htnwnled ONLV bi/ hig r(latio»s and his J'avoiirilet'." — Cliron. Flist. Disoov., vcif ii. p, H'y2, Tliis cortaiaiv i-, not a iair n'piesfiita<i(>ii of Fii.>;oonia''« statenunit, which T\\n-< tluis: — "'Tlie 'j^'oveiiioss and licr fiscMids \veii> nr.icli allVcted by iiis diatii, oihiT.s \v(>re {;la(! cf it. Ji is fo ha .ytijijioscti titti^i; were liie u-u/t<t people in the voin party ^ to whom his t/imdness gnve nffmca ; for it is iinpossilile for one win? livp.s in dioad to love that, whicli occasion.s his firar; and purtiiulavly wiicn tlic uictcd iiavo x\n- ^ood vojiul^e oftla.il evil wo:!.-."' — .!i)a!ryn)i,'c, liiist. (Jo!L, \(1. i. p. 1,.0. OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 83 V i\ '<! comfort." Continued misfortunes had now reduced the Cil\i». iif. st.'ttlement to a state so helpless that twenty determined j|,(, co'o-iy savages could have destroyed it without danger ; and a 'iindoneiU the Donna Ysiibel, bereft of her husband and brother, and discouraged by so many evils, resolved to abandon the projected colony. Having accordingly embarked all the settlers, and taken on board the corpse of the adehtntado, the three vessels which now composed the fleet set sail on the 18th of November, after a stay at Santa Cruz of two months and eight days. It was intended to seek the island of Sim Christoval ; !^;?")Thr^ " but," says Q,uiros, " when we continued on the course Carolines. two days and saw nothing, on the petition of all the people, wIjo spoke aloud, the governess commanded me to take the route for the city of Manilla." In their voyage thither, an island was discovered about thirty leagues in circuit, and clothed with trees and herbage. No name seems at that time to have been assigned to it, and tliough its position is very imperfectly indicated, it may be conjectured to be one of the Carolinesr* Two of the vessels reached the Philippines after much priva- tion ; the third was found stranded on the coast with all her sails set, but her people were dead.t Shortly after this disastrous expedition, the Spaniards Appearance were filai'med by the appearance of a new foe in the |!,vds^)n'tiio" occau which they hud ever regai'ded as their own. This SuuUi -Sci* unexpected enemy was the Dutch, who, fired alike l)y the hatred of the nation whi(;h had so long oppressed them, and stimulated by hopes of gain, determined to carry the hostilities, hitherto confined to the plains of the Low Countries, far beyond the l>ounds of Europe, nii'i to attack the possessions of their fvrmer tyrants in India and the South Seas'. * ll \.i lUiiH ||(»(|i'>'H I'V iM. t]p Fr.-^ycinet, apparently on (he an- itiority (if 'if xi'iru : — " In Iftilf), (Jniroc, siiccesscur de Mendana, fit la decouveitf dn I'ile Hopnleu, (jui d'almrd re iif des I'^spagnols le nnni (Ic QiiiiO'-n, puis ocliii de Torrc'!, (1^10 ca[)itiiiii(> de rotte nation." — VoyiiffP iiiitpur i\\\ IMonde. Ilistoriqiie, V>mi.' ii. p. 77* f haliyiiiple, Hist, (loll., vol. i. j). 5U, note. ^ m I ^ i f i : ;i!ll ,M!i ii H 84 FllOM MAfJELLAN TO THE END CHAP. III. First Dutch t*.\itedition. I' 'I' III June l/;f)B, five vessels left Holland for the pur- pose of suilin^^ to the East Indies by the Straits of Magellan, and crnising against the Spaniards on the coasts of Chili and Peru. On the 6th of the following April, they entered the Straits ; but in consequence of some unforeseen difficulties, thoy were obliged to winter in Green Bay, where they suffered much from cold and want, many of the men dying of hunger. They had also repeated conflicts with the natives, who are de- scribed as being of formidable stature, with red bodies and long hair, and animated with such implacable hatred against the Dutch, that they tore from their graves the bodies of some sailors, which they mangled nisporsion of or altogether removed. On the 3d of September, the tiiu >(iua- squadron reached the South Sea, but was soon dispersed in a storm, and never again met. Sibald de Weert re- passed the Straits, and after seeing some of the islands discovered by Davis, and which now received the name of Sibald de Weert, brought home to the Maes, in July 1600, the only ship that returned to Holland. Dirck Gherritz, in the yacht comnianded by him, Avas driven to 64° south latitude, where he got sight of land, sup- posed to be the South Shetland Isles.* An English- man, named William Adams, acted as chief pilot in the squadron, and the vessel in which he sailed stood over to the const of Japan, where they were detained, but kindly treated. Adams built two ships for the emperor, and became so great a favourite, that he granted him a living " like unto a lordship in England, with eightie or ninetie husbandmen " for servants ; but he failed to ob- tain permission to return home, though he greatly desired to " see his poore wife and children, according to con- science and nature." t Finding that he could not pre- vail for hi Hi self, he interceded for his companions, who, William ,Ailams tlie cliiel" pilot. • This fiict sconis to liavo been little remarried, and does not af- fect tlie merit of Captain Smith s discovery in 181M. f " Wilham Adams, — his Voyaj^e by tlie Magellan Straits to Jajian, written in two letters by himselfe." — Purchas, vol. "u p. 12». tl t^r^mm^mmm lit'. Its u III OF THE 6IXTKEM1I CENTl'HV. 85 being allowed to depart, joined a Dutch fleet under chap. iif. General Matelief. Their caT)tain was killed in an en- ... :~" , ' Ills rtcatli Ht gagenient with tlie Portuguese oIt Malacca, after which riiancio. all trace of them is lost. News of the death of Adams, at Firando in Japan, was brought to this country in 1C21. Almost contemporaneously with this expedition, some Socnmi Dutch merchants fitted out four ships under Olivier Van aitiou. " ""' Noort, who sailed from Goree on the 13th September 1508, with objects similar to those contemplated by De Weert. A voyage of a year and seven days l)r(»u,L',ht them to I'ort Desire, where they careened their three vessels, having previously burned one as unserviceable ; and, according to Purchas, they took in this jdace pen- guins to the number of " 50,000, being as bijzge as geese, with cgges innumerable, which proved very re- freshing to the diseased."* Some natives being ob- served on the north shore, the general landed with twenty men, and as the savages had disapjieared they proceeded into the country. Five sailors left in charge of the boats straggled to some distance ; upon which Connift about thirty Patagonians, tall, fierce, tawny, and "paint- )|,',['i'^ J^^' ed to the degree of terror," attacked them, murdered three, and wounded another with an arrow. By the time the general and his party returned, the assailants had all lied, and none were again seen near the place. After entering the Straits, the ships were appioached from the south coast by a single man, who was pursued and ineffectually fired at. A more convenient oppor- tunity, as the Dutchmen conceived, for revenging the death of their three comrades occurred at the smaller of Oonirrrroo the Penguin Islands. As the boats nenred the land, "' •' "j^/I'f, about forty natives, thinking; they came in search of the birds which abound there, threw some from the top of a cliff, made signs for them not to land, and discharged arrows when these intinifitions were disregarded. Tbo Hollanders were not slow to retaliate with musketry : * Purchas, vol. i. p. T^ \ li 86 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END Sill 11" liter of thu uativcd. i ^\ iiiiiiatioii. ! ;; iiii'iMli It i CIIaP. tit. which soon drove the savages from the rock. They again rallied, however, on the side of a hill at the mouth of a cavern, and fought with the utmost determination until the destructive fire of the Dutch left not one man alive. In the interior of the grotto were found huddled together the women and children ; mothers had placed their own bodies as a protection before their offspring, and many of both were wounded. The invaders com- mitted no farther outrage, except carrying off four boys Cinci extcr- and two girls. One of the former having been taught to speak Dutch, afterwards informed his captors that they had exterminated the males of a whole tribe, — a deed which, as it is related without any expressions of regret or pity, was probably never regarded by the per- petrators as being in the least more atrocious than if they had cut down so many trees for the use of their squadron. Sibald de Weert's ship was seen in the Straits, and that commander made a request to be sup- plied with some biscuit ; but his countryman coolly answered, that he had no more than was sufficient for his own use, and if he should exhaust his stores, this was not a part of the world where bread could be pur- chased. Along the west coast of South America some prizes of little consequence were made, and when near the equator they stood across towards the Philippines. At Guahan, in the Ladrones, about 200 canoes came off to barter, the people in them shouting, " Hierro, hierro ! " (iron, iron!) aud in their eagerness oversetting each other's boats, — a catastrophe which occasioned much confusion, but no loss of life, as they were all expert swimmers. The Dutch did not find them honourable in their transactions, as they covered baskets of shells with a thin layer of rice at top, and if they had an op- portunity, pulled a sword from the scabbard, and leap- ing into the sea, eluded, by diving, the bullets of the enraged owners. The women were no less expert in such exere. than the men, as was ascertained by dropping bit^ iron, Avhich they fetched up fiom the Visit t" the riiiliiipiiics. Tl'oft o- tho IllltlVUfi. OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTl'RV. «7 bottom. Thence Van Noort proceeded in a leisurely chap, in manner, capturing trading vessels, burning villages, and captures and carrying off provisions as occasion served. His force spoliation. was now reduced to two ships, the Mauritius and Een- dracht. He learnt from some Chinese that the capital of the Spanish settlements was well fortified, and the harljour sufficiently protected. He therefore anchored off the entrance of the bay to intercept the craft bound thither. After some tiuic, tlie colonists sailed out to attack them ; when their admiral, Do Morga, con- fident in a large superiority of numbers, ran directly aboard of the Mauritius, and, getting possession of the deck, pulled down the flag. The Hollanders, however, Fiffhtwith continued to fight, though in a skulking manner, when iiiaVu':i! Van Noort, tired of this tedious and ineffectual warfare, lold his men, that if they did not come out and en- counter the enemy more vigorously, he would set fire to the magazine and blow up the ship. They did so accordingly, and drove the Spaniards back into their own vessel, which, having been damaged in boarding, soon after went down. Most of the seamen were saved by the country-boats ; but numbers also were shot, knocked on the head, or killed with pikes by the Dutch, who refused quarter. The Eendracht, seeing the colours of the Mauritius lowered, and thinking the captain-general had surrendered, took to flight, but was pursued and captured ; upon which the pri- soners being conveyed to Manilla, were immediately executed as pirates. Without any farther adventure npttim lo of consequence, and having added nothing to the know- ^ '^" " ledge of the South Sea, Van Noort brought his ship to anchor before the city of Amsterdam on the 20th of August lf)01. This was the first circumnavigation performed by the Dutch, and was remarkable for the rigour with which discipline was enforced. In many of the Spanish ex- peditions mutinies broke out which could not be sub- dued without the sacrifice of several lives ; but here, although a spirit of insubordination was repeatedly (i I 'M rfn FllOM MAGELLAN TO THE END ]{i)^oi'ous severity of clLci])liiit'. Siimmnry of ry, CifAP. III. displayed, it seems to liave bicn uniformly checked 1)i'fore spnading to any considerable extent. Indi- viduals who had been found guilty were put ashore at various points ; and, among others, the second in com- mand was left in Patagonia with a little bread and wine. Every thing of this nature was done with the sanction of a council of war,* whose sentences were occasionally marked by no little severity : in one case they caused a seaman's hand to be pinned to the mast with a knife, where ho was condemned to remain till he could release himself by slitting it open. This cruel punishment was formerly usual in cases where an assault had been committed upon the pilot or com- mander. The voyage of Van Noort closes the long list of enter- !;f uibcovery! P^'i^^'^ made in the sixteenth century ; and, before passing on to the events of the seventeenth, it may not be improper briefly to glance at the progress of discovery among the islands and along the coasts of the South Sea since the iime when Vasco Nunez, from the mountain- peak of iJarien, beheld "below him extended a vast chaos of rock and forest, and green savannas and wander- ing streams, while at a distance the waters of the promised ocean glittered in the morning sun." + * Bnrnoy (Cliron, Hist. Discov., vol, ii. p. 209) sajs, it does not appear who composed this tribunal ; but the original account of the voyaj|;e mentions that the "council of war" jrave a judgment which it also attributes to the " j^enoral and his officers." This makes it sufficiently plain of whom the council in a Dutch fleet consisted ; and further, one of the letters of William Adams states, that all the pilots in the squadron expressed in the council an opinion which so displeased the captains that they excluded them for the future from their deliberations. — Purchas, vol. i. p. 129. •j- Voyajies of the Companions of Culnmbus, p. 173. Wasliihff- ton Trvin;^' has described this evi«t, "one of the most beautiful and strikiu';' incidents in the history of the New World," with even more than his usual eleirance. It is in itself so picturesque as to !)e liarely susceptible of farther embellisliment from poetry, thoujrh ]Mr Irving considers that the fate of Nunez "nii^ht furnish a theme of wonderful interest for a noem or a drama." His great dis- covery has been happily alluded to in a beautiful sonnet by a jounfT poet, who, however, has confounded him with the conqueror of JNlcjcico : — 111 in ill OF Tlin SIXTF-KNTII CKNTURY. 89 Islands dia- covcred. The continent of Ainerici, constituting the western chap. hi. boundary of this vast ocean, had already l)cen explor- jrxtcnTof cd from tlic white clill':i of New Albion, in 48° nurtli iimi ix- latitude, to Cape Pilaris on Tierra del Fuego, in 64° '''°''-'*^ south. Some imperfect kuowlodge had been obtained of lands even still farther south : Drake had seen the promontory which afterwards received the dreaded name of Cape Horn, and the Dutch bad descried tlie bleak islands now called New South Shetland. Magellan had laid open the strait which bears his name, and was then looked on os the only entrance from the Atlantic into the South Sea. Along the coast had been dis- covered several islands, the principal of which were Chiloe, Mocha, Mas-afuera, Juan Fernandez, San Felix, San Amber or Anibrosio, Lobos, Los Galapagos, Cocos, San Tomas, and the Pearl Islands. The eastern bound- ary of the South Sea was less accurately known. Yet on that side the Japan Islands, Formosa, the Phi- lij)l)ines or Archipelago of St Lazarus, Borneo, the Moluccas, Papua or New Guinea, had all been more or less minutely examined, and might be held to define with sufficient accuracy the eastern limits of the Pacific, from the latitude of 40° north to that of 10° on tho ojiposite side of the equator. Southward of this all was luiknown and unexplored ; and the geographers of the period, bold in their ignorance, delineated the capes, the gulfs, the promontories, bays, islands, and coast of a ^"'"!''""''>' great continent extending from the vicinity of Guinea to the neighbourhood of Tierra del Fuego, under the name of Terra Australis nondum cognita. Of the innumerable clusters of islands with which the South Sea is studded, very few had been at this time discovered. Las Desventuradas, the Ladronos or Ma- si.utheni New coutiuenr. " Then felt I like some watcher of the skies When a new planet swims int<» his ken.. Or like stout Cottez, when witli esif^le eyes He stared at the Pacific, and all his men Looked at each otiier witii a wild surmise, Silent, upon a peak in Darien." - 1 1 m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // Co ^ *^^ 1.0 I.I 12.8 m m •»». I£ u U4 £ kS, 12.0 11:25 HI 1.4 I' i 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 7 ; WiST MAIN STRUT WHSTIR.N.Y. 145M (716) 872-4503 ^\ •SJ ^v \ :\ '^ ^ fl ' 90 FROM MAGELLAN, Ace. CHAP. in. nans, the Sequeira or Pelew, and several others of the Carolines ; the islands of San Bernardo, Las Marquesas, Solitaria, the Solomons, Santa Cruz, and a few smaller groups, were all that were known of those countries and islands, the extent and number of which have at length claimed for them the rank of a fifth division of the globe. During this period the earth had been sailed round four times. Of these circumnavigations, the first was effected by Spaniards under a Portuguese commander ; the second and the third by the English^ and tho fourth by the Dutch. Islands di!>- covered in the South Sea. CircnmnaTl gallons of the globe. Ill •-*:gt*-:jt.-: " 'wMw he M, [er nd th lie CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES, Stc 91 ad as p; CHAPTER IV. Circumnavigations and Discoveries of the Seventeenth Century. Voyage of Quiros — La Sanitaria — Australia del Espiritu Santo — Luis Vaez de Torres discovers the Strait between New Holland and New Guinea — Circumnavigation of Spilbergen — Of Schouten and Le Maire — Discovery of Staten Land and Cape Horn — CocoH, Grood Hope, and Horn Islands — New Ireland — Expedition of the Nodals— Discove yof New Holland by Dirck Hatichs — Cir- cumnavigaiion of the Nassau Fleet — Voyage of Tasman — Dis- covery of Van Diemen's Land, of New Zealand, and the Friendly Islands — Voyages of Hendrick Brower and La RiKhe — Expedi- tions of the Buccaneers — Discovery of Davis* or Easter Island — Voyage of Strong, and Discovery of Falkland Sound — Retrospect. There had long been an abatement in the ardour of chap. IV. that passion for adventure which formerly inflamed the causeTof hearts of the Spanish nation, afforded to her chivalrous abatement of youth so many harvests of gain, and extended her for adveil- sceptre over regions of great extent, wealth, and beauty. *'*''*• Avarice had become sated with the gold already obtained, - or, chilled by the frequent disappointment of its eager hoprs, had become suspicious and distrustful of future promises. Enthusiapm had been quenched by the mis- fortunes of those wh(>8e beginning had been the most prosperous and seemed most certain of success. Reli- gious zeal had found, in the lands already explored, ampler bounds than it could occupy. National policy memsTif required rather the permanent security and improve- policy. ment of conquered countries, than a search after new regions. There had even arisen a superstitious feeling against the discovery of the South Sea, as if it had been m CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES CHAP. IV. Sup rititious tcui& Pi'ilro Tor- ii uidez do (^uiros. Arpuments for tlie exist- ence of a fi'Mitliern coutiutiut. an impious intrusion into the secrets of nature. The untimely fate of all who had been principally concerned ir. this great event was now recollected. It was told, that Vasco Nunez had been beheaded, — that Magellan had fallen by the hands of the infidels, — that his com- panion, the astrologer Ruy Falero, had died raving mad, — ^and that the seaman De Lepe, who had first descried the Strait from the topmast,, had abandoned Christ to follow Mohammed. But the spirit which had glowed so long was not wholly dead, and we have yet to record the actions of one of the most distinguished navigators whom Spain has produced. Undaunted by the hardships and ill success of the last voyage of Alvaro de Mendana, the pilot, Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, returned to Peru, eager to engage in fresh adventures, and, as one of his memorials expresses it, " to plough up the waters of the unknown sea, and to seek out the undiscovered lands around the antarctic pole — the centre of that horizon."* Arguing upon grounds which were received by many, even down to our own day, he asserted the existence of a vast southern continent, or at least of a mass of islands, the antipodes of the greater part of Europe, Africa, and Asia. The viceroy, to whom he detailed his views, heartily approved of the project ; but the limits of his authority hindered him from furnishing means for its execution, and he therefore sent him to Spain with letters of recommendation to the king and his ministers. These were successful. Quiros left the court " with the most honourable schedules which had ever passed tho • Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i. p. 98. The chief authorities for the voyage of Quiros are his own memorials (which are inserted in Dalrymple, vol. i. p. 145-174; and in Purchas, vol. iv. p, 1427), together with the relations of Fi^iieroa and Torqnemada (Monar- chia Indiana, Seville, Uil5, and Madrid, 1723), botii translated by Dalrymple, vol. i. p. 95-144. In Burney's Citron. Hist. Discov., vol. li. p. 467-478, Appendix, No. i. was printed, for the first timet the " Relation of Luis Vaer. de Torres, concerning' the discov- eries of Qiiiros as his almirante. Dated Manilla, I2th July 16(>7;" translated by Mr Dalrymple from a Spanish M S. in his possession. ^ Z^^^J^SVtl^^^^^^- <4MBBaMMMa OP THR SEVKNTEENTIl CENTURY. 93 council of state," and arriving at Lima and " throwing chap, iv into oblivion all that he had endured for eleven years i>..„J~ir* ... 1 • « ji, t 1 Preparations .n the pursuit of so important an object, * he began to for new dis- prepare for his long-cherished enterprise. covery. Having built two vessels and a zabra (a kind of vessels pro- launch), the strongest and the best armed, says Torque- viifiti for tim mada, of any that had been seen on either sea, on *^^^^ tho 2ist of December 1605, he set sail from the port of Callao, having under him, as second in command, Luis Vaez de Torres.+ Six Grey or Fran- ciscan Friars accompanied the expedition ; and, in con- formity with their wonted respect for religion, guns were ^red on the 25th during the day, and the ships were illuminated during the night, in honour of the solemn festival of the Nativity. On reaching the lati- tude of 26° south, Quiros considered it proper to pursue a more northerly track, in oppos a to the advice of Torres, who thought that by advancing to SO" south there was greater probability of finding the desired continent. On the 26th of January 1606, between the First di-w parallels of 24** and 25'' south latitude, and 1000 leagues [^^J^ "' west from Peru, land was seen. It was a low flat island, with a sandy surface, here and there diversified by a few trees, though apparently without inhabitants, and it received the name of La Encarnacion. Three days after another island was discovered ; it was " plain and even a-top,*' might contain about twelve leagues, and was called San Juan Bautista.J From this Quiros sailed in a north-westerly direction, and on the 4th of February saw an island or group of islands, encircled by • Torqnemada. Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i. p. 104. •f" Cook, in the introdnrtion to his second voy.nge, falls into tlie siniriilar mistake of representinfr Torres as commander of t!»e expe- dition, and Quiros oniy as pilot. Vovau:e towards the South P'>l' :ind round the World, in the Years 1772-1775. 3d edition. London, 177y> — Gen. Introd. p. xii. :}: It may be proper here to state, that the memorial of Torres has preserved a totally different nomenclature of the lands from that given by Quiros, and that for obvious reasons we hare adopteil the names bestowed by the latter. mL LJ.- fSBm^^mm ■NPV 94 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES CHAP. IV. Group of Islands dis- covered. La Dcccna. Appearance of the nutives. \§'\ m Reception of the voyagerSi \i a reef and having a lagoon in the cencre. This land, which was ahout thirty leagues in circuit, received the name of Santelmo. The next day four other islands were seen ; they were barren and uninhabited, and resembled in all respects those previously discovered. They were called Los Quatros Coronadas ; and two of a similar character, observed in the vicinity, were named San Miguel Archangel and Conversion de San Pablo. On the 9th of February an island was seen in the north-east, and, from the circumstance of being the tenth which had met their eyes, received the appellation of La Decena. It appeared to be like those previously in- spected, and the ships passed on. The next day a sailor on the topmast gave the cry of " Land a-head ! " to the great joy of all on board. " It was," says Torres, " a low island, with a point to the south-east which was covered with palm-trees ;" * and the columns of smoke which rose from different parts showed that it was in- habited. The zabra was directed to search for an an- chorage, and having found it in ten fathoms the boats were sent to effect a landing. About 100 Indians were seen upon the beach making signs of joy ; but so great was the surf which broke upon the rocks, that the crews, with heavy hearts, abandoned their intention of landing and resolved to row back to the ships. " They were thus returning quite disconsolate," says Torque- mada, " when a brave-spirited young man, Francisco Ponce, a native of Triana, slighting the danger, got up, saying, that if they should thus turn their faces from the first perils which their fate presented, what hope could there be of success in the event V* and with this threw himself into the sea and swam ashore. The islanders welcomed him with much apparent affection, frequently kissing his forehead, and encouraged by the example now set them, some others leapt into the sea and swam to land. The natives were in colour mulat- toes, well limbed, and of good carriage ; they were * Burncy, Cliron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii. p. 408. OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. m raked, and armed, some with la ces of thick wood, burnt nt the ends and about twenty-seven palms in len^j^th, some with swords of the wood of the palm-tree, and not a few with great clubs. They lived in thatched houses, situated by the margin of the sea among groves of palms. A person who appeared to be a chief had on his head a kind of crown made of small black feathers, but so fine and soft that they looked like silk. In one of the woods was discovered what seemed to be an altar, rudely formed of stones ; and " our people," says the Spanish chronicler, *' solicitous where the Prince of Darkness had dwelt to place the royal standard whereby the Prince of Light gave life to us, with Christian zeal cut down a tree with their knives, which they formed into a cross and fixed in the middle of the place."* The island was found to be divided by a narrow isthmus which was overflowed at high water ; its latitude was between 17" 40' and 18° 30' south, and its longitude, as computed from the different accounts, has been fixed by Barney at 147° 2' west from Greenwich, t This dis- covery was named La Sagitaria, and ha-, by the most eminent geographers, been generally considei'ed as iden- tical with Otaheite. This opinion has been founded on the coincidence of position, on the similarity of the iUhmus, on the resemblance in extent and form, and, above all, on the circumstance that no other island, widely as the Pacific has now been searched, is known to which the description will at all apply. But it must not be concealed that there are many and material ob- jections to this theory. Torres expressly describes it as a " low island," — a remark which is quite irreconcilable with the mountain-peaks of Otaheite ; and even the account of the isthmus, in so far as regards its being overflowed at high water, does not agree. The other discrepancies are, that the shores of Sagitaria afforded no anchorage, and that its smaller peninsula must have been at least CHAP. IV. Arms and (IwellinKS of the Islanders. Cliristian zeal of the voyagers. Supposed to be Otaheite. Discrepan- cies now ob- servable. • Torqiiemada. Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i. p. 113. f Chron. Hist. Discuv., vol. ii. p. 2U2. 96 CIUCUMNAVIOAllUNO AM> DISC'OVERIKS CHAP. IV. LHter con- clusions. VoynRc I'eiiunicd. J'li iny niiiong the bcuiuen. N' w Itind discovered. 1 ;; eight Spanish leagues in extent, — facts which ore alto- gether inapplicable to Otaheite. * Little weight, how- ever, has been given to these remarljs, and the identity of the two islands is now generally admitted ; though, when all circumstances are considered, doubts may still be entertained as to the soundness of the conclusion. On the 12th of February, Quiros resumed hb voyage, and, while yet in sight of La Sagitaria, saw a very low island, which he named La Fugitiva. On the 21st, an- other discovery was made of a plain and uninhabited spot, which was called El Perogrino. About this time a mutiny broke out on board his ship, headed by the chief pilot ; it being the intention of the disaffected to make themselves masters of the vessel and sail in a direct course to the Philippines. The only punishment which Quiros inflicted, was to send the pilot as a pri- soner on board the vessel commanded by Torres. On the 2d of March, a level island was seen to the west- ward ; and on a nearer approach it was found to be inhabited. The intercourse with the natives was unfor- tunately hostile, and much blood was shed ; but the beauty of their forms so struck the Spaniards, that they gave them the appellation of La Gente Hermosa. There is reason to believe that this is the same with the San Bernardo of Mendana. Quiros continued to sail westward in the parallel of 10° south upwards of thirty days. Towards the end of that period frequent signs of land were observed, and on the afternoon of the 7th of April a high and black coast was discovered. They failed to reach it, however, be- fore the 9th, when it was found to be inhabited : many houses were descried on the beach and among the woods ; and on a small islet, which had been converted into a rude fort, were about seventy dwellings. This island-fortress was taken possession of by the Spaniards * Wales' Remarks on Mr Foster's Account of Captain Cook's Last Voyaire round the World io the Years 1772-1775. London, 1778. Pp. 24,25,26. OP THE SKVENTEENTH CENTURY. 97 without opposition, — the vicinity of Santa Cruz, and a knowledge of Mendana*8 transactions there, having taught the savages the fatal efficacy of fire-arms. The appellation of this country was Taumaco, and its inhab- itants were apparently of diflFerent races, — some having a light copper-colour, with long hair, — others resem- bling mulattoes, — while a third class had the black skin and frizzled hair of the Oceanic negro. Their arms were bows and arrows, and they had large sailing canoes. From the chief, whose name was Tumay, Quiros obtained information of upwards of sixty islands, and, among others, of a large country called Manicolo. He determined to sail in quest of these, and on the 19th quitted Taumaco ; and, changing his course to the southward, reached an island, which in appearance nnd in inhabitants resembled the one he had just left, and was by the natives denominated Tucopia. The voy- agers still proceeded southward till they passed the lati- tude of 14', at which point they pureued a westerly direction ; and after one day's sailing, discovered a vol- cano surrounded by land, about three leagues in circuit, well wooded, and inhabited by black people with large beards. When near this island, which was named Nuestra Senori de la Luz, land was perceived to the westward ; while in the south, and " towards the S.E." was seen " other land still larger, which seemed to have no end, and was full of great mountains." After some deliberation it was resolved to make for the island in the west, which received the name of Santa Maria ; but, after touching there, Quiros determined to steer towards the high regions that lay to the south. On the 2d of May, he moved the vessels into a large bay, and, believing that he had at length discovered the great southern con- tinent, gave it the name of Australia del Espiritu Santo. The bay, in honour of the festival on which they had entered it, was named San Felipe y Santiago ; while a port far within, where they anchored, was called La Vera Cruz. This hai'bour, which could have con- CHAP IV. Appearancu 01 the imtiveH. Information obt.iined of oUier Islands Snpposed discovery of the Southuni contiuunt. I PB CIRCUMNAViaATIONS AND DISCOVERIES CHAP. IV tttined above a thousand ships, was situated between iiHibtTuT aud *^^o streams, one of which was named Jordan and the iivuis. other Salvador. Of these rivers one was equal in size to the Guadalquivir at Seville. " The strands of this bay," says Torquemada, " are broad, long, and clear ; the sea is here still and pleasant, for although the winds blow strong, within the bay the water Is scarce moved. There are in all parts in front of the sea pleasant and agreeable groves, extending to the sides of many moun- tains which were in sight ; and also from the top of one, to which our people climbed, were perceived at a distance extremely feiiile valleys, plain and beautiful ; and various rivers winding amongst the green mountains. lT!«h esHma- f j^g whole is a country which, without doubt, has the uuw laud, advantage over those of America, and the best of the European will be well if it is equal." * — " From the breaking of the dawn," says Quiros, " is heard through all the neighbouring wood a very great harmony of thousands of different birds, some to appearance night- ingales, blackbirds, larks, and goldfinches, and infinite numbers of swallows, and besides them many other kinds of birds, even the chirping of grasshoppers and crickets. Every morning and evening were 'enjoyed sweet scents wafted from all kinds of flowers, amongst them that of oiange-flowera and sweet basil." t As the boats rowed towards this second Eden, the isl- anders crowded to the beach, and endeavoured, by friendly signs, to prevent their landing. The Spaniards, however, leapt on shore ; upon which a native chief drew a line on the ground with his bow, and made signs that the strangers should not pass beyond it. But Luis Yaez de Torres, thinking this would appear cowardly, stept across the boundary, and strife instantly ensued. A flight of arrows, on the one side, was re- sponded to by a discharge of musketry on the other, which killed the chief and several of his followers. • Torquemada. Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i. p. 137. + " Relation of a Memorial presented by Captain Pedro Fernan- dez de Quiros." Dalrymple, Hist Coll., vol. i. p. 170. Collision with the nutivea. OP THE SEVENTEENXn CENTURY. 90 From this time all peace was at an end ; the savages re- ciiAP. iv. jected every offer of conciliation, and by sudden ambus. y^,,a,Jdon- cado and open attack sought revenge for the blood of mcnt of the their leader. This ceaseless enmity, and the failure of *="'*"*'T^- provisions, determined Quires to quit the place before a month had elapsed. He had, however, previously taken possession of the country in the name of the king, and founded a city under the title of La Nueva Jcrusalen. The natives are described as black, cor- pulent, and strong. Their houses are built of wood and thatched, and they have plantations enclosed with pali- sades. They are possessed of musical instruments re- sembling the flute and drum ; they manufacture some sort of earthen vessels, and build large canoes adapted to long voyages. In endeavouring to quit the harbour of San Felipe y Departiive Santiago, much stormy /eather w^iis encountered, and *"'" ^^""•'''co. for some reasons, which cannot now be nscci'tained, Quiros parted company with his consort. After a vain search for the island of Santa Cruz, he agreed, in com- pliance with the opinion of his officers, to sail for Mexico^ where he arrived in the middle of October. Still thirsting after discovery and adventure, he once' Return to more repaired to the court of Spain, and continued Spain. there several years, beseeching the throne for assistance to pursue the starch of new lands. So great was his importunity that he is said to have presented no fewer than fifty memorials. One of these, after discussing in glowing language the beauty and fertility of the Australia, thus concludes:— "Acquire, sire, since you Enffemess if can, acquire heaven, eteraal fame, and that new world lincwed ' with all its promises. And since there is none who ^^venture solicits of your majesty the rewards for the glad tidings of so groat and signal a blessing of God, reserved for your happy time, I, sire, supplicate them, and as such my despatch, for the galleons are ready, and I have many places to go to, and much to provide and to do. If Christoval Colon's conjectures did make him perti- nacious, what I have seen, what I have felt, and what I CHAP. IV Dentil of Qui 108. rrocccding ol Torres. * Position occupied by the Dutch. 1 Reconcile- ment and union of Simin and Foitu»;aL ! i 100 CIUCUMNAVIOATION8 AND DISCOVERIES oflfer, mu8t niuko me so importunate." * The solicita^ tions of Quiros were at last crowned with success, and in 1614 he set out on his way to Lima, in order to arrange another expedition. But this gratification he was doomed never to enjoy ; he died, while on his journey, at Panama. We now return to Torres, who, during two weeks after the departure of Quiros, remained in the Bay of San Felipe y C^aniingo. On leaving this he sailed along the west side of the Australia del Espiritu Santo, which he found to be well watered and possessed of many ports. He also ascertained that it was no continent, but an island. He continued to steer to the south-westward, till he reached the 21° of south latitude, when he changed his course to the north-east, and in 11 J° en- countered what he believed to be the eastern extremity of New Guinea. Being unable to weather this point, he directed his course to the westward, along the southern coasts, and having sailed through the strait between New Holland and New Guinea, which he was the first to penetrate, arrived at Manilla in May 1607. Holland was now rising fast in the scale of maritime importance, and gradually assuming that station which the Spaniards had so long occupied. Following the example first set by the English, the Dutch had already sent two fleets into the South Sea, as is related iu the preceding chapter ; and, in pursuing the course of the narrative, we now reach a period at which they hold the most distinguished place in the history of navigation and discovery. The cession of the Moluccas by Spain to Portugal put an end for some time to the disputes between these powers in the Pacific, and the union of the two crowns in 1681 prevented any renewal of the contests. The islands themselves, however, never wholly submitted to the dominion of either of those masters ; and when the Dutch, in 1599, first visited Ternate, they found encouragement to establbh a fac- * Oalrymple, Hist Coll., vol. i. pp. 173, 174. OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 101 tory ; where, from that time, they steadily pursued chap. iv. pinns for securing an exchisive trade. Their East India » .7^ » Company (established in 1602) fitted out six vessels, imiia cum- which, under George Spilbcrgen, sailed from the Texel ^""y- on the 8th of Augnst 1614, destined to penetrate through the Straits of Magellan to the South Sea, there to cruise against the Spaniards, and to strengthen the power of their countrymen in the Spice Islands. They were furnished equally for war or for trade ; and so ably was the expedition conducted, that the five largest vessels reached the Moluccas in safety, after defeating Roderigo de Mendoza with . ; greatly superior force near the American coast. The Peruvian admiral had boasted Vain bonst that he would make prisoners or slay the whole of his I'emvinn enemies : — " Two of my ships," he said, " would take admiral. all England ; how much more those Hens of Holland, after so long a journey has spent and wasted them ! " * In the encounter, the Low Country warriors betrayed nothing of the spirit of the fowl to which they were insult- ingly compared ; but the arrogant governor did not sur- vive to encounter the ridicule which he had justly merited, for his vessel, aficr escaping from the conflict, went down at sea. It was not to be expected that a Dutchman, whose orders were to employ himself in fighting and traffic, should deviate from the accustomed thTvoytue. track in search of new lands, or spend much time in investigating the character and manners of the people ; his voyage accordingly presents nothing that is now in- teresting in either of these respects, though the survey of the Straits of Magellan and of Manilla furnished to mariners better charts of these channels than any before executed. On the 29th March 1616, Spilbcrgen arrived at the Moluccas, and till the end of the year continued occupied with the affairs of his employers. He seems then CO have left his own vessels, and, coming home in command of the Amsterdam and Zealand, arrived on the 1st July 1617. * Purchas, vol. i. p. 81. »«^»--»»*fc . ■■ ■■»^fjffU!f muLji T CHAr. IV. Exclusive charter of th Dutch East India com- pany. Southern ciimpany funned. Ti'ie gold 102 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVEltlES By the charter of the Dutch East India Company, no other merchants were allowed to pass round the Cape of Good Hope or through the Straits of Magellan to the Moluccas, — a prohibition supposed to be sufficient to secure to that body an exclusive trade in the spices. Many English pilots were, however, about this time in the service of the United Provinces ; and by their means, it is probable, was the fact made known, that Drake had discovered an open sea to the south of Tierra del Fuego. Accordingly, about the year 1613, some merchants, proceeding on this ground, imagined that a new passage might be found to India, and that they might thus acquire a right to participate in the gainful traffic to these regions. An expedition was accordingly planned, chiefly, as appears, by Isaac le Maire, a wealthy citizen of Amsterdam, and by William Schouten, a native of Hoom, and an experienced mariner. Their object was not openly avowed : they obtained from the States-general the privilege of making the first four voyages to the places which they miglit discover, and formed themselves into an association under the name of the Southern Company ; but as the destination of the vessels was not disclosed to the seamen, who were engaged to sail whithersoever their commanders chose, the other merchants were displeased because they could nat penetrate the designs of their neighbours, and those w^ho engaged in the enterprise were derisively denomi- nated Gold Seekers.* * It Is proper to observe, that the details of the voj'age of r-houten and Le Maire are in many instances involved in doubt. Two accounts oftiieir voyajye were published slmrtly after its com- pletion, written bv the respective friends of the two navigators, and the discrepancies between these narratives, though they do not affect the more important events of the voyage, involve the minuter details in much perplexity. There is sometimes a difference between th' i- reckonings of from twenty-five to forty-five minutes of latitudt ; they vary in their dates to the extent of eight or nine days ; and even while thej^ agree as to the substance of events, they differ as to the order of their occiii rence. In the ff>llowing account, we have en- deavoured to reconcile their conflicting statements so far as possible ; »nd where that was not practicable, have generally given preference OF THE SEVENTKEMll CENTURY. 103 Schouten, accompanied by Jacob le Maire, tbe son chap. iv. of Isaac, in the capacity of supercargo, sailed from the _ ... — . Texel on the 14th of June 161^, with two ships, the somhcm Eendracht and Hoorn. It was not till the 26th ot^^P*'*'"""- October, after they had crossed the line, that the crews w^ei"e informed of the intentions of their leaders ; and when told that they were steering by a new passage to the south of the Straits of Magellan, for the " Terra Australis" (probably the Australia del E^piritu Santo of Quiros), some of them, that they might not forget the name, wrote it in their caps with chalk. The ships were conducted into Port Desire, where, during the Disaster nt process of careening, the Hoorn was accidentally burnt. On shore were found multitudes of birds like lapwings. A man, standing in one spot, could with his hands reach fifty-four nests, each containing three or four eggs. Thousands of these were carried on board and Port Desire. to the authority of the first-published account, the Journal of the Voyage of IViHiam Schouten., which ap[>earcd at Amsterdam in 1617, in the Dutch and French langna^es, hearing in the latter the title of "Journal ou Description du Aleiveilleux Voyag« de Guil- laume Schouten." It was translated into Latin by De Bry in 1619, and an English tran.xlation appeared at London in the fame }'ear, and afterwards in Purchas, vol. i. p. 88-107. The second narra- tive of the voyage was printed at Amsterdam in 1G22, under the title of "Journal et Miroir de la Navigation Australe de Jacques Le Maire, Chef et Conducteur de deu.\ Navires." In addition to these have appeared various other relations, to which it is not ne- cessary to advert, as they are of no authority, and contain nothing but what will he found in the two original uuthorities. But one ex- ception must be made from this judgment,— the "Navigation Aus- trale par Jac. le Maire et par W. Corn. Schouten," said to be compiled from the Journal of Adrian Claesz, and published in the " Recueil des Voyages a I'Ftablissement de la Comp. des Indes Orient " Translations of the Journals of Schouten and of Le M aire, andof parts of that attributed to Claesz, are inserted in Dalrymple's Hist. Coll., vol ii. p 1-64. An able and critical narrative will be found in Burney's valuable work. This author, though he seems fre- quently to have preferred the account given by the friends of Le Maire, states with much candour tiiat "on comparison, the fact appears that the greater portion of the Nuvigution Au.\trule de Lt Maire is taken I'rom the Journal du Merveillevx Voyage de fV. Schouten, and that, the editor has endeavoured to disguise the plagiarism by verbal alterations." — Chron Hist. DiscoV , vol. ii. p. MO. - : • v^Ti ;y,-. vviy « j- . 'v:aifc7sa ia_-g aw«Mt.-& »ic— i CMAP. IV. Game and provi8ion& Sepnlchral piles of Btoneik 1C4 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES used as food, to the no small saving, doubtless, of the five cheeses, and other provisions, which had been ap- portioned to each sailor for the voyage.* On the main- land some pools of fresh water were found, by following the direction in which certain animals with long necks, supposed to be harts, but probably horses, were ob- served daily to repair for the purpose, as was rightly conjectured, of drinking. On the summits of hills and on elevated rocks were observed piles of stones, which some of the people had the curiosity to remove ; and beneath, without any pit being dug, were found human skeletons, several of which, it is alleged, measured ten or eleven feet in length, and " the skulls,*' it is said in the description which accompanies the plates inserted in the " Journal du Merveilleux Voyage de Schouten," " we could put on our heads in the manner of helmets." On the 13th of January 1616, the Eendracht left Port Desire,+ and stood to the southward. On the 18th * " It was ordered tliat every man should have a can of beere a day, fuure pound of bisket, and half'e a pound of butter (besides sweet suet^ a weeke, and five cheeses for the wliole voyajfe.' — Pur- olias, vol. 1. p. Uil. f When Sir John Narboroiigh lay at Port Desire in 1670, he discovered a relic of the visit of Schouten and Le Maire. " One of my men," he writes, "found a piece of sheet lead, which had tlsis inscription engraved on it : — ' MDCXV. EEN SCHIP EKDE EEN JACHT OENAEMT EEN- DRACHT EN HOORN OGARRIVEERT DEEN VIII DECEM- BER VERTROKEN MET EEN SCRIP D'EENDRACHT DEN X. JANUARY; MDCXVI. C I. LE MAIRE. S. W. C. SCHOVTS. AR. CLASSEN. I. C SCHOVTS. CL. lANSEN BA.V.' (t e. MDCXV. A ship and a yacht, named Eendracht and Hooro, arri^o'l here on the 8th December. Departed with the ship Een- dracht 10th January mdcxvi. In a hole of the post lay a tin box, with a siiuet of written paper enclosed in it, but so eaten by the rust of the box that it could not be read. We found several pieces of board of the wreck of some ship that had been burned." — Journal kept by Captain John Narborough. Burney, Chron. Hist. Discov , vol. iii. pp. 334, 335. These fragments must have belon),if- ed to the Hoorn, which, as has been mentioned, accidentally took fire while bein^ careened. Ttiere is a discrepancy of three days between the date of departure in tiie inscription and in the accounts uf the voyage. OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 105 It. tliey saw the islands of Sibald de Weert (the Falk- chap. iv. lands), and two days after, at noon, passed the latitude — of the entrance of the Straits of Magellan. It was now cntnmce of that the most critical part of their voyage commenced, ^'*' straits of and the winds, soundings, and appearances of the land and water, were observed and noted with the greatest minuteness. On the 24th, they came to the most easterly point of TieiTa del Fuego, and saw another country still farther in the same direction, which they nuined Staten Land, in honour of the States of Holland. Passing through the channel, which afterwards in a meeting of their council was entitled the Strait of Le Maire, the coast on the left was found to diverge towards the east, while that on the right turned west- south-west ; and the mariners knew they had a wide sea before them, the colour of the water being blue, and long waves coming from the south-west. At last, on the SOth, they passed the most southerly point of P'f=sn-"e of Tierra del Fuego, which was named Cajo Horn or '^''^ Hoorn, in honour of the town of Hoorn in West Fries- land, the birthplace of Schouten. The land was high and hilly, covered with snow. In some parts of this ocean, whales were so numerous that the pilots were incessantly obliged to alter their course in order to avoid running against them, while in others the sea- wimioa and birds, unused to the sight of human beings, alighted in ^^'^' " ^ the ship and suffered themselves to be taken by the sailors. The weather was frequently tempestuous, and they never wanted rain or mist, snow or hail. On the 3d of February, they were in 69° 30', their greatest southern latitude, from which, standing north-west, they reckoned on the 12th that they had again attained the parallel of the Straits of Magellan, and consequently had effected a new passage into the Pacific Ocean ; for joy of which, an allowance of three cups of wine was dealt out to all the men. At Juan Fernandez they missed the anchorage, but A' tI ^a* obtained a little water, and were most successful in Fernantioz. their fishing, the bait being caught the moment it was 106 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES SuccessUil fishing. CHAP. IV. dropt, 80 that those emploj'ed "continually without ceasing did nothing hut draw up" bream and corcobados. From this island, in a course north-west by north, they crossed the southern tropic, then stood north-west aa far as 18° of south latitude. On the 10th of April was discovered a circular strip of land full of trees, with sea-birds perched on the branches, the interior having the appearance of being overflowed at high water. No in rks of inhabitants could be perceived, but three dogs were seen, which, as the Dutchmen allege, could neither bark nor growl ; and from this circumstance it was itos Island, denominated Honden or Dog Island. On the 14th, they came to another narrow border well covered with wood, surrounding a salt-water lake in the middle, and styled it Sonder-grondt, or Bottomless, because they failed to obtain soundings. A great number of natives, of a copper colour, with long black hair fastened up behind, were seen ; some of whom pushed off in a canoe, and addressed themselves to the Dutch by signs and speeches, in which they became so emphatic as to over- set their bark. Those on shore waved their garments and branches of trees, thereby inviting, as was supposed, the strangers to land. By and by their skilfs ventured nearer the ship, and one of them getting into the gallery, showed that he knew the value of iron, by vlthTmUuna. drawing the nails from the cabin windows and concealing them in his hair. As it was understood that hogs and fowls were plentiful, a party went ashore in the boat for the purpose of trading ; but immediately on their landing, about thirty islanders rushed from the woods and assiiultcd them. The discharge of three muskets soon put them to flight ; but from this inauspicious beginniiig it was thouglit needless to attempt any farther to es ablish a friendly intercourse. The noses of these people are described as flat, " which," as Burney re- marks, " is no part of the general character of the inhabitants of any of the islands at present known in the South Seas." '*^ On the 16th, our navigators filled four ' Cliron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii. p. 381. OP TUE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 107 J CHAP. I v; Fly hluad. casks of water from an island resembling those previously visited, and which thej named Waterlandt. Two days after, another being descried, some of the crew landed and entered a wood, where, seeing a native with what appeared to be a bow in his hand,* and having no arms themselves, they hastened back to the ship covered with black flics, which infested all on board three or four days. The name of Vlieghen or Fly Island was in consequence bestowed on the place. O 1 the 8th of May, when out of sight of land, an J^JJ^ J"'''*" Indian vessel was observed standing to the north, across covered, the course of the Eendracht, from which three guns were fired as a signal that the other should lay to. It was strange that Schouten, who must have been aware that fire-arms were entirely unknown to many of these poor islanders, should have expected such a signal to be understood, or thought that, upon their failing to com- ply, he might justly use violence. The Indian^ at first paid no attention to the summons, and on its repetition made every endeavour to escape. A boat was, however, lowered with ten musketeers, who speedily out-man- ^^*P*"^^J|' oeuvred the fugitives, and, when within half-range, mercilessly fired four shots among them, by which one was wounded, and immediately leapt into the sea. Fifteen or sixteen otliers, in terror, blackened their fm-es with ashes, threw overboard their merchandise, which consisted of small mats and some fowls, and committed themselves to the waves, one man carrying an infant with him. The Dutch found in the vessel eight women with three children at the breast, and several others nine or ten years old, an aged man also, and the * " They saw a savajj^e who seemed to them to hare a bow in his hand," says the Journal of Schouten ; and it is remarked, in the description o\ an island subsequently visited (see below, p. IIH), that *' these were the first bows we saw at the islands in the South Sens." The Navigation Anstrale of Le Maire 8|)eaks positively of having " perceived a sava^^e man with his bow in his hand, as if to shoot fish." But the observations of modern navigators tend, without exception, to establish the fact that bows and arrows aie not in use on Fly Island. 108 CIUCUMNAVIQATI0N8 AND DISCOVERIES Kescueof the survivors. Departure of tliu eunoe. CHAP. IV. wounded youth who had returned on board ; but no weapons of any kind. Wlien the canoe hud been taken alongside of the Eendracht, the boat returned to the assistance of the Indians in the water, of whom only two were saved, who pointed downwards, to signify that all the rest had gone to the bottom. They fell on their faces before their conquerors, kissing their feet and hands ; and on being presented with knives and beads, gave in return two mats and two cocoa-nuts, although tiiey had little provisions left for their own use. Their whole stock of fresh-water being exhausted, they drank from he sea, and supplied their children with the same beverage. Towards evening, the Indians were put on board their canoe, " that were welcome to their wives, which claspt them about the necks, and kissed them ;*'* one of the women, however, appeared to be in much affliction, lamenting the loss of her husband. Their hopes of a prosperous traffic b^'.ng blasted by this cruel disaster, the savages now steered a course the reverse of that they had formerly held, on their return, no doubt, to the place whence they had adventurously sailed, quitting sight of land without any of the aids which render such a navigation safe. On the 11th May, the ship anchored at Cocos Island, cocos Island. gQ named from the abundance of that species of fruit : another island lay about a league to the south-south- west. Canoes soon flocked to the place, and by degrees a few of the natives ventured on board, and being enter- tained with some tunes by a seaman who played on the fiddle, they danced and " showed themselves joyful and delighted beyond measure." Numerous groups speedily resorted to the vessel, admiring every thing they saw, and pilfering whatever they could carry off. " They wondered at the greatnesse and strength of the shippe, and some of them crept downe behind at the rother (rudder), under the ship, and knockt with stones upon the bottome thereof, to proove how strong it was."f Arrival at • Burchas, vol. i. p. 96. t Ibid. p. 97. OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 109 They brought for traffic plenty of cocoas, bananas, chap. iv. yams, and some small hogs, "which were purchased at — an easy rate for old nails and beads ; and so eager were tiie nativeai they, that those in the outer canoes secured their com- modities in their teeth, and dived under the rest, endeavouring to cut them out from the advantage of lying closer to the ship. The king of the southern island had sent a present to the Eendracht, and received one in return. The next day he came with a large assemblage of his people, ostensibly for trade, which was carried on as usual for some time ; but, on the striking Trcnchery of of a drum, the whole of them, amounting to about 1000, "'« Indians, set up a shout, and assailed the Hollandei's with stones. The great guns and musketry soon dispersed these rude warriors in consternation, and Schouten set sail, naming their country Verraders or Traitors' Island. The voyagei-s remarked among them one man perfectly white. On the 14th, in searching for anchorage near an island which they called Good Hope, from its pre- senting a fair promise of supplying their want of fresh water, an affray took place with the natives ; for which reason they again thought it advisable to continue their course. On the 18th May, they were in latitude 16° 6' south, General and on this day a general council was held to decide on ^^o""*'** the future direction of their voyage. Schouten repre- sented, that though they were now at least 1600 leagues westward from the coast of Peru, they had discovered no part of the Terra Australis, and that no indications even of its existence had yet been met with. There was, he stated, little likelihood of their success, and they had besides sailed much farther to the westward than was their original intention. The result of continuing in their present track, he said, must be tliat they would full upon the southern coasts of New Guinea, and in the event of their not finding a passage on that side of the island, they must without doubt be lost, as the constant trade-winds would altogether preclude their return to 1 CHAP. IV. Change of course adopted. nutiTtis. 110 CIRCITMNAVIGATIONS AND DI8C0VERIi:S the eastward.* He bade them remember also that their store of victuals was but small, and that there was little prospect of increasing it-; and concluded by asking, if it were not butter, considering all these things, to alter their course and to sail northward, thus passing by the upper shorts of New Guinea, and reach the Molucca Islands. This suggestion was at once adopted, and their line of motion changi^d to the north-north-west. To- wards evening of the next day, they catne in sight of land, divided apparently into two Islands, distant from each other about a cannon-shot. They directed the ship towards them ; but, owing to contrary winds, it was not until the noon of the 21st that they got within a league's distance. About twenty canoes instantly came off, filled with people much resembling the inha- Conflict witii bitants of Good Hope Island. As they approached the vessel they made a great hallooing, which was inter- preted by the navigators into a salutation of welcome, and answered with the sound of trumpets and shouting. One of the natives, however, having been observed to shake his wooden asaayay or spear in a warlike manner, and the theft of a shirt from the gallery having been discovered, a cannon and some muskets were dischar<5ed against them, by which two of the savages were wounded, and the whole put to flight, the linen (which belonged to the president) being thrown into the sea. A boat which was afterwards despatched to search for a more convenient anchorage was attacked, and, in the conflict which ensued, six of the islanders were killed, several wounded, and one canoe captured. On the 23d, the ship was drawn into a bay, and safely moored at about the distance of a stone's throw from the shore, and so near to a stream of fresh water that a supply could be procured by the boats within range of the guns. Here the adventurers remained seven days, * This rcasonin{r shows that Schouten was i(>nnraDt of the strait hetween New Guinea and New Huliaud, discuveied by Luis Vaez t\i\ Torres. See above p. 100. Bay of lefiige. OP THE SEVENTLENTII CENTURY. HI holding a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants, and chap. IV. receiving provisions from them, in return for knives, prie,i^y beads, nails, and trinkets. Immediately on their an- intercourse choring, these last flocked in vast numbers to the beach, nativea!' and soon after came oiF to the ship in their canoes. Towards night an old man brought four bunches of cocoa-nuts as a present from the ariki or herico, the title by which, here as well as at Cocos Island, the chief or king was distinguished. He refused to accept any gift in return, but invited the Europeans to go on shore. Accordingly, on the morning of the next day, three of ^.^,^''to*ti>o' them landed, six of the natives having been first put on king. board the ship as hostages. Tliey were welcomed with much ceremony, and found the sovereign seated on a mat in an open house or shed, called a belay. On their approach, he joined his hands and bowed his head down- wards, remaining in that position nearly half, an hour ; when the Hollanders having at length put themselves into a similar posture, he resumed his usual attitude. One of his attendants, supposed to be a chief of high rank, kissed the feet and hands of one of the Dutchmen, " sobbing and crying like a child, and putting the foot of Adrian Claesz upon his neck." A present was given Acceptable ..11 /. 1111 11 presentH to to the prmcipal ruler, of two hand-bells, a red bonnet, tiio king. and some trifling articles, all of which were received with much joy, expressed by repeated exclamations of **Awoo!" In return, the visiters were gratified with four small hogs. During the time the sailors were taking in water, " when any of the Indians came neere the boat, the king himselfe came thither and drave them thence, or sent one of his men to doe it." His subjects seemed to yield him implicit obedience, and to hold him in great awe. A native having stolen a cutlass, a com- plaint was made to one of the royal attendants, who in- stantly caused the criminal to be brought back and beaten with staves. The weapon was restored ; and the stran- gera were informed by signs, tliat if the ariki knew of it, the thief s head would be cut off'. After this, says the Journal of Schouten, " we had nothing stolen from Cnptin e of a tliieU CHAP. IV. Terror for fire-ann8. Unsuccessful attempts ut barter. Prosent of flsli to the kiug. Excursion into the interior 112 CIHCUMNAV1GATI0N8 AND DISCOVERIES US, neither on the shore, nor in the ship, nor elsewhere ; neither durst they take a fish that we angled for." Tho report of a musket produced great consternation among the islanders, and caused them to run off quak- ing and trembling. Their terror was still greater at the discharge of a cannon, which was fired at the desi a of the king. They all with one accord, accompanied by his majesty, fled to the woods ; " but not long after they came againe, scarce halfe well assured." * On the 25th, three of the navigators again tried to barter for hogs, but were unsuccessful. The king, how- ever, " after he had said his prayers, which he used to doe every time that they went on shore," showed much kindness towards them. On the 26th, Jacob le Maire landed, and made some trifling presents. He met with much respect, though he failed to procure a supply of stock. The aviki and his son bestowed upon him and his companion a headdress, consisting of feathers of various colours, which they themselves wore. This cap seems to have been a mark of honour peculiar to the king and his family ; while every member of his council was distinguished by having a dove sitting on a perch beside him. On the evening of the 27th, some fish which had been caught during the day were presented to his ma- jesty, who immediately devoured them raw, " heads, tails, entrails, and all, with good appetite." The night closed in festivities, some of the Hollanders remaining on shore, and mingling in the moonlight dances of the natives. Two of the sailons performed a mock fight with swords, — ^a spectacle which excited much admira- tion among the islanders. On the 28th, the voyagers, attended with trumpets, went on shore in state, to visit the king ; when they became spectators of au interview between him and a neighbouring prince. On the 29th, Le Maire, accompanied by three of the seamen, made an excursion into the interior of the country, having a son and a brother of the ariki for * Purckas, vol. i. pp. 99, 100. OF THE 8EVENTEKNTII CENTURV. 113 >ii guides. They saw nothing worthy of remark, except chai*. IV. a red earth used by the natives for paint, and several xppiicatit caves and holes in the mountains, with divers thickets '"r provi- and groves where they lay in ambush in time of war. ''""'" On their return, the young nobles went with the cap- tain on board his vessel, and evinced much satisfaction on being informed, that if a few hogs and yams could be obtained the ship would sail in two days. In the afternoon, the monarch, with sixteen of his attendants, appeared on deck with the donation of a hog and a bas- ket of cocoa-nuts. He delivered these with much cere- mony : having placed the basket on his neck, he pros- trated himself, and in this posture offered his gifts to Le Maire, who raised him up, and sat down beside him. At the command of the ariki, his people lifted the Dutch officer and another, and placed them upon their shoulders as a token of reverence. The chief was then conducted fJ'*"}'',""," through the various parts of the ship, expressing his the king, wonder at what he saw. When led into the hold, " he fell down upon his face and prayed," — a ceremony which he performed when he first came on board. His atten- dants kissed the feet of the seamen, and placed them on their own heads and necks, in sign of an entire submis- sion. In the evening, one of the Europeans having been successful in taking a quantity of fish, went to present some to the king, when he found a number of girls dancing to the music of a hollow piece of wood like a pump, " which made a noyse, whereat the yong wenches danced after their manner, very finely, and with a good grace, according to the measure of the noyse of the instrument.*'* The king, on the morning of the SOth, sent to the Present of ship two small hogs. On the afternoon of the same day j'^*^*" he received a visit from a neighbouring ariki, who was accompanied by 300 men, bringing with them sixteen hogs. As the stranger chief drew near to his brother * Purchas, vol. i. p. lUO. Interview between the kinff and u cliief. Kiiva fcnst lit CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES ciiAr. IV. sovereign, he began at some distance to perform stranf^e ceremonies, and bowing down his body, fell to the ground on his face, and remained there " praying" with a loud voice, and apparently with great fervour. The native prince advanced to meet his visiter, and went through the same forms. ** After much adoe, they both rose up on their feete, and went and sate together under the king's behiff and there were assembled together at least 900 men." In the afternoon the Dutch witnessed a kava-fcost. A number of the people having chewed the kava (a sort of green herb) in their mouths for some time, deposited it in a wooden vessel ; they then poured water on it, and having stirred it, the liquor was par- taken of by the arikis and their attendants. The islanders, says the Journal of Schouten, ** presented that notable drinke (as a speciall and a goodly present) to our men ; but tliey had enough, and more than enough, of the sight thereof.'** On this occasion, like- wise, the discoverers observed the manner in which these savages cooked their hogs. Sixteen were pre- pared for the present banquet as follows : being ripped up, the entrails removed, and the hair singed off, they were roasted by means of hot stones placed in the in ternal cavity. Each of the arikis presented to the foreigners one of the hogs thus dressed, along with a number of the same animals alive ; receiving in return ** three copper beak- ers, foure knives, twelve old nayles, and some beades, wherewith they were well pleased." Early on the morning of the 31st, preparations were made for sailing. After breakfast, the two chiefs came on board with six additional hogs. On this occasion they wore green cocoa-tree-leaves round their necks, which it was presumed was customary with them in taking leave of friends. They were entertained with wine, and received presents of various articles ; while a Jlodo of cuokinf;. rmtlicr pre- Kc-nts of liog» * Purchas, vol. i. p. 100. OP THE 8EVENTEENTU CENTURY. 115 nnil was bestowed on each of their attendants. Le • CIIAP. iv. Muire accompiinicd them on shore, when gifts were onco DepaTiure of more exchanged. At noon the ship proceeded on her ^^ '^^ voyage, and the Hollanders bade adieu to the natives, on whose island they bestowed the name of Hoom, in honour of the birthplace of Schouten. Tlie inhabitants are described as of large stature and well-proportioned limbs. They ran swiftly, and were very expert in swimming and diving. Their complexion was a tawny yellow, approaching to the hue of bronze. Much care was bestowed on the dressing of their hair, and they aiTanged it in several different manners. The ariki had a long lock hanging down to his thighs, and twisted into knots ; his attendants wore two such locks, one on each side ; and some of the islanders had four or five. The females are described as having a very repulsive appear- Appojirnnce ance and being of small stature ; they wore their hair cut o|'|>c females closely to their heads. Such of the habitations as were bitiitutiona. seen along the margin of the land, were of nearly a conical form, about twenty-five feet in circumference, ten or twelve in height, and covered with leaves. Their furniture consisted of a bundle of dried herbs resembling hay, which served for a couch, one or two fishing-rods, and sometimes a wooden club or staff. The hut of the ariki himself could boast no further decorations. ** We could not perceive," says the Journal of Schouten, " that they worshipped God, or any gods, or used any devotion, neither the one nor the other, but lived with- out care like birds in the wood." * It appeared to them ^^^9 f also that the inhabitants subsisted on the spontaneous fruits of the soil : " They neither sowe nor reape, nor doe any worke ; there the earth of itselfe yeelds all that they need to sustaine their lives, .... so that * Purchas,Tol. i. p. 101. On this passa^^e it must be remarked, that the ran^ of their observation was very limited, and can by no means be admitted as pr«>of that these islanders had no religion ; though the "prayers," which the ariki is so often described as iwing, apparently meant, not devotional adorations, but words of ceremony. ! i)\ New group of iiilundd. 116 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES CHAP. IV. there mt u may plainly behold and see the golden world whereof the poets write." * On leaving Iloorn, the adventurers pursued a north- westerly course, and on the 21st of June fell in with a group of small islands covered with trees. Some of the natives came off to the ship in canoes : they are de- scribed as in all respects resembling the inhabitants of the former place, except in their complexion, which was of 3 more dusky hue, and in their arms, which were bows and arrows, the first that the voyagers had seen in the South Sea. Some beads and nails were presented to them, who, having nothing to give in recompense, pointed to the west to signify that their king dwelt there, in a country abounding with every species of wealth. The next day, sailing in the same course, they passed at least twelve or thirteen islands grouped to- gether ; and on the 24th discovered three low ones, which, from their being " very green and full of trees," they named the Green. Another was in sight, on which were discerned seven or eight hovels. This they named St John's, from their having seen it on the 24th of June, the nativity of the Baptist. On the morning of the 25tli, they obtained a view towards the south-west of a high land, which they conjectured to be the point of Coast of New New Guinea, but which in reality was the country since called New Ireland. About noon tliey drew near to it, and sailed along the shore in a north- M-esterly direction. The coast is described as very high and green, and of a pleasant aspect. The inhabitants spoke a language totally different from that used by the natives of all the other places at which the vessel had touched. The • Pnrchas, vol. i. p. 101. This passage m.iv perhaps remind the reader of some lines in Lord Byron's poem of " The Island ;" " The bread-tree, which without the ploughshare yields The unreap'd harvest of unfurrow'd fields. . . . lands .... Where all partake the earth without dispute. And bread itself is jrather'd as a fruit; Where none contest the fields, the woods, the strer.ms :— The ^ddless a^e, where gold disturbs no dreams ! " OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 117 ship's boat, when employed in sounding for an anchor- chap iv age, was attacked by a party in canoes with volley's of — stones thrown from slings ; but a fire of musketry tiie"nativea. speedily put the savages to flight. In the evening, after the vessel had anchored, some others came off^, and addressed the sailors in a dialect which they did not un- derstand. They remained watching the ship all night, and the Europeans perceived signal-fires lighted along the shore. In the morning eight skiffs arranged them- selves round her ; one of them containing eleven, and the others from four to seven men each. The Dutch threw beads to them, and made friendly signs ; but the savages all at once commenced an attack with their slings and other weapons. The assault was returned with discharges of cannon and muskets, whereby ten or twelve were killed. At the same time they captured four canoes, and made three prisoners, one of whom died shortly after he was taken ; and at noon the two others were carried towards the land in order to be ex- changed for provisions. A pig and a bunch of bananas ^ ,^ were thus procured, and one of the captives was set at rausyui! liberty. Two days after, some of them came to the ship, but refused to ransom their countryman ; and on the evening of that day the Eendracht proceeded along the coast in a north-westerly direction. Several islands were seeu to the northwards ; and on the 1st of July she again came to anchor, having an island about two leagues long on the north, and the coast of New Ireland on the south. Here twenty-five canoes commenced an attack, attack of but were repulsed, a number of tli*» '^at'vcs being killed, canoea. and one taken. Here, too, one of the Hoiltinders was wounded, " being," says the Journal, " the first that was hurt in all our voyage ;" and after him the captive was named Moses. They continued to sail along this coast till the 8d, when they lost sight of it : and having passed several small islands, on the 6th they cr me in sight of the northern coast of New Guinea. About the middle of September, they arrived at the Moluccas, whence, in the end of that month, they sailed to Java. ?':J 118 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES CHAP. IV. Confiscation oft)io Eendracht Alarm of the Spaniards. New Spnnish e.\pedition. Discovery of New Holland On the 1st of November, while lying oflF Jacatra, the Eendracht was confiscated by the Dutch East India Company, on the ground that the owners were not partners of that body, and had made the voyage with- out their leave. Their ship being thus taken from them, several of the seamen entered into the service of the Company, and the remainder embarked for Europe on board the Amsterdam and Zealand, which sailed from Bantam on the 14th of December. Le Maire died a few days after leaving Java ; but the rest of the voyagers arrived safely on the 1st of July 1617, having been absent from their native country two years and seventeen days. The finding of this new passage into the Pacific ex- cited much interest in Europe. To Spain it caused more alarm than any of the hostile armaments which Hol- land had sent forth against her South Sea possessions, and no time was lost in fitting out an expedition to ex- plore the new discoveries of Schouten and Le Maire. The command was intrusted to two brothere, Bartolome Gracia de Nodal and Gon9alo de Nodal, who, having engaged several Dutch pilots, set sail from Lisbon 27th September 1G18. They followed the track of the late adventurers, and in passing Cape Horn saw some small rocky islands lying to the south-westward of that pro- montory, and named them the Isles of Diego Ramirez. They then steered northward, and, penetrating the Straits of Magellan, completed. the circumnavigation of Tierra del Fuego, and arrived at Spain in July 1619. Contemporaneously with the discovery of Cape Horn, the Dutch effected another of still greater importance, — that of the vast island or rather continent of New Hol- land or Australia. It does not fall wit- i the limits of this work to enter on the difficult question how far this country was known to the early Portuguese voyagers. Neither is it in our province to decide whether the honour of its discovery is not due to Luis Vaez de Torres, who, in sailing between New Holland and New Guinea, saw land on the south, which must have been part of this OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. ]U) great island.* It may be doubted if the Portuguese CHAP. IV. were aware of the nature of the lands they are said to RpsiiitTof have visited ; it is certain, moreover, that Torres con- previous ceived them to be parts of a large archipelago ; and, at «^»e'^^«t'°"^ all events, these visits led to no beneficial result, and had passed into oblivion. The honour of discovering New Holland, therefore, so far as utility and the advance- ment of science are concerned, may be safely awarded to the Dutch. In October 1616, the ship Eendracht, commanded by Dirck Hatichs (or, as it has been more commonly, but less correctly written, Hertoge), in her passage from Holland to the East Indies, discovered, in latitude 25°, the western coast of Australia, and called it Land Eendracht, — a name which it still retains. Only a few years elapsed after the completion of the NTew Dutch voyage of Schouten and Le Mairc before another arma- cxpcditioiu ment left Holland for the South Sea. The truce which for twelve years had subsisted between Spain and the United Provinces having expired in 1021, both parties hastened to resume active hostilities. Among other measures, the Dutch, early in the year 1023, fitted out a naval armament against Peru ; and it is to the pro- ceedings of this fleet that we have now to direct the reader's attention. It consisted of eleven ships, mount- ing 294 cannon, and supplied with 1G37 men, of whom 600 were soldiers. The command was intrusted to Jacob I'Hermite, an officer who had acquired celebrity in the service of their East India Company ; and the squadron, which, in honour of Prince Maurice of Nassau, one of its chief promoters, was named the Nassau Fleet, sailed from Goree on the 29th April 1623. On the 11th August, they anchored off Sierra Leone, StayatSieiTa and remained there till the beginning of September. During their stay they experienced the fatal effects of that pestilential climate, from which Europeans have since suffered so much. They buried forty-two men, and many more suffered severely, among whom was Lcoiie. * See above, p. 100. 120 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES CHAP. IV. Fatal effects of the flimata Passage of tlie Strait Le Muire. Delay from contrary winds. Nassau Bay. ""le Admiral I'lTermite, who contracted a disease from which he never recovered. After leaving this coast, they visited the islands of San Tomas and Annabon, at the latter of which they remained till the beginning of November. It was in their instructions, that they should not touch at any part of the South American continent northward of the Rio de la Plata, and that they should penetrate into the South Sea by the newly- discovered Strait of Le Maire, which was considered to afford a more certain passage than the Straits of Magel- lan. It was the 1st of February before they made the Cape de Penas on Tierra del Fuego, and on the 2d they entered Strait Le Maire, which the Journal of the Voy- age says they would not have known, had not one of the pilots who had previously passed through it recognised the high mountains of Tierra del Fuego. Some of the ships anchored in two bays near the northern entrance, which thev named VervSchoor and Valentine, and are tlie same with the Port Mauritius of modern maps and the Bay of Good Success. Althougli the whole fleet had passed through the strait just described on the evening of the 2d of February, yet, owing to contrary winds, they were on the 14th still seven leagues eastward of Cape Horn. The next day they doubled that promontory, and saw " a great gulf between that cape and the cape next to the west," which they were prevented from entering by b id weather. On the 16th, Cape Horn lay to the eastward, and they disco- vered two islands, which, according to their reckoning, were distant to the westward fourteen or fifteen leagues. The following morning, they perceived that they had lost ground, and fearing that they should still fall to leeward, they entered a large bay and cast anchor. In this harbour, which was afterwards named Nassau Bay, they remained ten days. On the 23d, some boats, which were sent to procure water, were compelled by a sudden and violent storm to return, leaving nineteen of the crew on shore wholly destitute of arms, of whom next day only two were found alive. The savages, it OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 121 appeared, as Boon as night came on, attacked them with CHAr. rv. clubs and slings, and killed, all except the two, who had FataUttack contrived to conceal themselves. Only five bodies were "^ »a™ges. discovered, some of which were cut into quarters, and others strangely mangled. Not a single native was seen after this unfortunate event. A party which had been sent to examine the neighbouring coast, reported that the Tierra del Fuego was divided into several islands ; that without doubling Cape Horn a passage into the South Sea might be effected, through the Bay or rather Gulf of Nassau, which was open to the east as well as to the west ; and that through some of these numerous open- ings it was presumed ships might penetrate into the Strait of Magellan. Such parts of the Tierra del Fuego Appenrnrco as were seen, appeared decidedly mountainous, though dei'Fuetfo "* not wanting in many fine valleys and watered meadows. The hills were «;lad with trees, all of which were bent eastward, owing to the strong westerly winds which pre- vail in these parts. Spacious harbours, capable of shel- tering the largest fleets, were frequently observed be- tween the islands. The natives are described as differ- ing little in stature from the people of Europe, and as being well proportioned in their limbs. Their hair is long, black, and thick, their teeth " as sharp as the Appearance blade of a knife." They paint their bodies of different ua^yea, colours and with fanciful devices ; their natural com- plexion, however, seemed to be as fair as that cf a European. Some of them were observed to have one side of their body altogether wliite, ard the opposite entirely red ; others were remarked wi h the trunks of their bodies white, and the face, arms, f nd legs coloured red. The males were perfectly nuked ; the females, Drcsi who were painted like the men, wore only a little piece of skin about tbe waist, and a string of shells round their neck. Their huts were constructed of trees, in a conical form, having an opening at the top to let tbe smoke escape ; the floor was sunk two or three feet below the level of the ground ; and the sides of the walls were covered with earth. Their fishing-tackle consisted of lines, stone hooks, and harpoons, and were 122 CIUCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES CHAP. IV. Mnn of Tierra del Fuego, Arms and CUllOCS. Dcpartnro from Nassau Bay. generally fabricated with some degree of neatness. For arms they had sharp knives made of stone ; slings, bows, and arrows with stone heads ; lances pointed with bone, and clubs. Their canoes measured in length from ten to sixteen feet, and about two in width ; they were built of the bark of large trees, resembling in shape the gondolas of Venice. In regard to their manners and habits, the report is very unfavourable : They more resemble beasts than human beings ; " for besides that they tear flien to pieces, and devour the flesh raw and bloody, there was not perceived among them the smallest indication of a religion or government ; on the contrary, :licy live together like beasts." * The fleet left Nassau Bay on the 27tb February, and for some time met with westerly winds, so that they Burney, Chron, Flist. Discov., vol. iii. p. IS. 'Vkiwjf OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 123 or ?s, th )m re le ad re at id St Id y did not reach the island of Juan Fernandez till the chap, i v. beginning of April. Having taken in water here, they jgiandof sailed on the 13th for the coast of Peru, and on the 8th Juan of May were oif Callao, where they remained until the *®™*°"*^^ 14th of August. On the 2d of June, Jacob I'Hermite, the admiral, died of the lingering illness contracted at Sierra Leone, and which was aggravated by the hard- ships and misfortunes of the expedition. He was buried j^^^^^ ^f jj,q on the island of Lima, the Isla de San Lorenzo of acimiraL modern charts ; and the vice-admiral, Hugo Schappcn- Imra, succeeded to the command. On leaving Callao, they proceeded northward, and after various delays arrived at Acapulco on the 28th of October. Here they remained some time, and having at last finally resolved to proceed westwards to reach the East Indies, on the 29th of November they bade adieu to the shores of Mexico, and directed their course across the Pacific. On the evening of the 25tli January 1626, they came Guaiian. in sight of Gualian, one of the Ladrones or Marians, having on the 15th passed some islands supposed by them to be those of Graspar Rico, but wliich more pro- bably belonged to the group San Bartolome, discovered in 1526 by Loyasa.* They left Guahan on the 11th of February, and in the beginning of March arrived at the Moluccas, where the fleet having been broken up. Breaking up the expedition may be said to have terminated. The admiral, Schappenham, embarked in the Eendracht for Holland, but died while off the coast of Java. The vessel proceeded on her voyage, and en the 9th of July 1626 anchored in the Texel ; having the first journalist of the expedition on board, who thus reached his native country after an absence of three years and seventy days. This armament failed in effecting the hostile designs with which it was undertaken, and was nearly as unsuccessful in adding to maritime science. It con- tributed little or nothing to geography but the know- ledge of Nassau Bay, and a more accurate examination of the southern shores of Tierra del Fuego. • See above, p. 04 ; and Burney, Chron. Hist Discov., vol. iii. p. Ji3, ami vol. I. p. lys. of the fleet i i CHAP. IV. Prosecution ot tlio discovery of New IlulUnd Discovery of Van Die- Dicn':i Land. 1 Stntcn LanJ, or New Zealand. 124 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES The discovery of New Holland, which had been commenced by Dirck Hatichs, continued for many years to be occasionally prosecuted by the Dutch ; but not before 1642 was it ascertained what were its south- ern limits, or how far it extended to the eastward. This was effected, at least within a rude degree of accu- racy, by Abel Jansen Tasman, one of the most illustrious of the Dutch navigators, and who found a generous and liberal patron in Anthony Van Diemen, the governor of Batavia.* Tlie expedition, which was fitted out by him and his council, sailed from Batavia on the 14th August 1642. On the 24th November, they discovered Anthony Van Diemen's Land, so named, says Tasman, " in honour of our high magistrate, the governor-general, who sent us out to make discoveries :" they continued to coast along that island till the 6th December, when they directed their coui*se to the eastward. On the 13th, a shore was discovered, to which Tasman gave the name of Staats or Staten Land, from a belief that it was a part of the country of the same name discovered by Schouten and Le Maire, to the east of Tierra del Fuego ; but the name was afterwards changed into New Zealand. Dur- ing his progress along the coast, he was attacked by the Bavages with that courage and ferocity which later navigators have so fatally experienced. For some time after leaving New Zealand the ships pursued a north-easterly course, till, on the 19th of January, they reached a high island, two or three miles * For many j'ears the only account of Tasman's voyajje was to be found in a curtailed abridgment of bis journal, published at Am- sterdam in 1674, and a more copious relation inserted in Valentyn's East Indian Descriptions. About 1771j however, a MS. journal of Tasman (supposed to be the original) fell into the hands of Sir Joseph Banks, and was found to be much more complete than any previous narrative. An English translation, executed in 1776 by he Rev. C. G. Woide, was published by Burney, — Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iii. p. 63-1 10. The journal thus commences : — "Journal or Description by me, Abel Jansz Tasman, of a Voyage from Ba- tavia for making Discoveries of the unknown South Land, in the Year 1642. May God Almighty be pleased to give His Blessing to this Voyage ! Amen. OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 125 in circumference, on which they bestowed the name of Pylstaart or Ti.)pic-bird, from the number of these fowls which frequented it. On the 21st, two more were dis- covered, distant from each other about a mile and a half. The northern was named Amsterdam, because, says Tasman, " we found plenty of provisions there ;'* and to the southern they gave the title of Middleburgh. By the natives, the latter is called Eooa, and the former Tongataboo ; and the one last mentioned is the principal of the cluster now called the Friendly Islands. Some of the savages approached in a canoe : they are described as exceeding the common stature of Europeans, of a brown complexion, and wearing no other dress than a slight covering round the waist. They called out loudly to the voyagers, who shouted in return, and after show- ing them some white linen, threw a piece overboard. Before the canoe reached the spot, the cloth had begun to sink ; but one of the natives dived in pursuit of it, and after remaining a long time under water brought up the linen, and, in token of his gratitude, placed it several times on his head. They also gave them some beads, nails, and looking-glasses ; these the islanders ap- plied in like manner, and in return presented a small line, and a fishing-hook made of shell like an anchovy. The Dutch in vain tried to make them understand that they wanted fresh water and hogs. In the aiternoon, how- ever, they were observed in great numbers running along the shore displaying white flags : these were con- strued as signs of peace, and returned by a similar token hoisted on the stern. On this, a canoe bearing white colours came off^ to the ship. It contained four individuals with coverings of leaves round their necks, and with their bodies painted black from the waist to the thigh. From the nature of their present, which consisted of some cloth made of the bark of a tree, and from the superior- ity of their vessel, it was conceived that they came from the chief or sovereign. The officers bestowed upon them a mirror, a knife, spikes, and a piece of linen ; a glass was also filled with wine, and having been drank en A p. IV. Further discovery of lan'J. Natives of the Friendly hlanUa. Presents niiidc to tlie nutivca. Gifts sent in return. f * Iliiitcr with the uativeit. \ Bii 126 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES CHAi'. IV. olF, was again filled and offered to the natives ; but thoy poured the liquor out, and carried the glass on shore Shortly after, many canoes arrived to barter cocoa-nuts for nails. A grave old man, who, from the great respect paid to him, seemed to be a leader, also came on board, and saluted the strangers by placing his head upon their feet. He was presented with a piece of linen and several other articles, and conducted into the cabin. On being shown a cup of fresh water, he made signs that there was some on the island. In the evening, one of the natives was detected in the act of stealing a pistol and a pair of gloves ; but the mariners contented themselves with taking the things from him " without anger." To- wards sunset, about twenty canoes came from the shore and drew up in regulai order near the ship ; the people that were in them called out several times in a loud voice, Present from " Woo, WOO, WOO !" Upon which those who were on the King. board sat down, and one of the skiffs came alongside with a present from the king, consisting of a hog, cocoa- nuts, and yams. A plate and some brass wire were given in return. The exchange of provisions for nails continued until night, when the savages went back to the shore, leaving only one of their number. The following morning, they resumed their station, and the barter was renewed. This day, several females appeared, and it was observed that the elder women had the little finger cut off from both hands. The meanmg of this custom the Dutch could not discover ; but, as appeared to them, it was confined to the more aged individuals.* * Later vovai^ers have found that this is by no means the case. '^ The most singular circumstance which we observed ainon^^ these people was, that many of them wanted the Utile finder on one and sometimes on both hands; the difference of sex or a^e did not exempt them from tliis amputation ; for even amongst the few children whom we saw running about naked, the greater part had already suffered this loss. Only a few grown people, who had pre- served both their little fingers, were an exception to the general rule." — Forster's Voyage round the World, vol. i. p. 435. Of the origin of this remarkable usage, Forster s))eaks in the following sen- tence: — *'The native told us that a man lay buried there, and, [^uinting to the place where his little finger had formerly been rut SincTiilar native custuin. OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 127 The wonders of the ship were shown to the natives ; chap. iv. and one of the great guns was fired, wliich at first occa- TenoTof sioned a considerable panic among them ; but, on per- tire-m-ms. reiving that no harm followed, they quickly recovered their courage. The men sent on shore to procure water, found the wells so small that they were obliged to take it up in cocoa-nut shells. Next day, they made signs to the chief that the fountains must be made larger. He instantly ordered this to be done by his attendants, and in the mean time conducted the sailors into a pleasant valley, where they were seated on mats, and supplied with cocoa-nuts, fish, and several kinds of fruit. The people of Amsterdam Island, says the captain, " have no idea of tobacco, or of smoking. We saw no arms among them ; so that here was altogether peace and friendship. The women wear a covering of mat-w^ork that reaches from the middle to the knees : the rest of their body is naked. Thoy cut their hai: shorter than that of the men."* Between the islanders and these tYiaiidiy their first European visiters there seems to have existed w^'^J'tho an uninterrupted feeling of kindly good-will. Before aativea. departing, Tasman records, that he "ordered a white flag to be brought, and w.e went with it to three of their chiefs, to whom we explained that we wished it to be set up in that valley (where they had been entertained with cocoa-nuts, fish, and fruits), and that it might remain there as a sign of peace between us ; at which they were much pleased, and the flag was fixed there." A display of the same kindness on the part of the natives led Captain Cook, a century afterwards, to bestow on away, he plainly si|j^nified, that when his madnas or parents died they mutilated tlieir hands."— Ibid. vol. i. p. 451. The accuracy of this view is doubtful ; it is more probable that the mutilation is made as a propitiatory sacrifice to avert death. — J. G. Dalyell's Darker Superstitions of Scotland, Edinburuh, 1834, p. lUU, and authori- ties there quoted. It may be addeo, that tlie rite is not confined to the natives of the Friendly Isles, but has been observed among the Hottentots of the Cape of Good Hope, the Guaranos of Parajj^ay, and the natives of California. * Burney, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iii. p. 84. New cluster of IsIanilH * discuvci'ud. 128 CIUCUMNAVIQATIONS AND DlSCUVEltlES CHAP. IV. their country the name of the Friendly Islands. This visit of the Dutch was brought prematurely to a close, by the winds having driven one of their vessels from her anchorage. A few hours' sail in a north-easterly direction brought the voyagers to a cluster of islands, the largest of which, called by the natives Annamooka, they named Rotter- dam. They remained here some days, maintaining an amicable intercourse with the savages. During an ex- cursion into the interior, they "saw several pieces of cultivated ground or gardens, where the beds were re- gularly laid out into squares, and planted with different plants and fruits, bananas, and other trees, placed in etraiglit lines, which made a pleasant show, and spread round about a very agreeable and fine odour." Tlie inhabitants are represented as resembling those of Am- sterdam Island, and so addicted to thieving that they stole every thing within their reach. They appeared to possess no form of govenimcnt, and to be without a king or chief; but one of them detected in stealing^ was punished by being beaten with an old cocoa-nut on the back until the nut broke.* They are represented as entirely ignorant of any religion ; they practise no worship ; and are without idols, relics, or priests, though they seem to observe some singular supersti- tions. " I saw one of them," says Tasman, " take up a Thievish propensities of tlie natives. • With rejfard to the {government of these islanders, tliere is a discrepancy in the Journal of Tasman, which his translators and commentators ha', o overlooked. In eivin^ a j>;enerai description of the natives, he pv| vessly says, — "llie people of this island have no kinjj^ or chieC."- -Durney, Ciiron. Hist. Discov., vol. iii. p. 89. But, in narratinjT his transactions there, he not only mentions the existence of a cliief, but specifies the name by which the natives culled him : — "• 'i'hey took us," he saj^s, " to the east side of the island, where six large vessels with masts were lyinj^. They then led us to a pool of water, which Wius about a mile in circumference ; but we were not yet come to the aigy or latoun, as they call their chief. When we had rested, we again asked where the aigy was, and they pointed to the other side of the pool of water ; but the day being far advanced, we returned by another way to our boats." — Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iii. p. 88. Modern discoveries have ehowu that this last passage is correct. wate| respt watcl ous, dent^ princ lie si of thl form] Oi nortll eight and Islan dang< visite OP TUB 8EVENTEENTU CENTURY. 129 water-snake which was near his boat, and lie put it chap. iv. respectfully upon his head, and then again into the cri",' water. They kill no flies, though they are very numcr- uuiivo iaea\ ous, and plague them extremely. Our steersman acci- dentally killed a fly in the presence of one of the prhicipal people, who could not help showing anger at it." lie seems to have formed a viry unfavourable estimate of their character, and styles them " peoj)le who have the form of the human species, but no human manners." On leaving this group, he directed his course west- PHncp north-west, and, after six days' sailing, came to about isi'j[llj |.' ' eighteen or twenty small islands, surrounded with shoals and sandbanks, which were named Prince William's Islands and Ileemskerke's Shoals, and which, from tho dangerous reefs surrounding them, have been rarely visited since their first discovery. The remainder of his voyage possesses little interest, as his track was pretty nearly the same which had been pursued by Schouten and Le Maire. He arrived at Batavia on the 15th June, in the year 1643, after an absence often months and one day. While Tasman was engaged in this voyage, which Iy"*A ,, ascertained the southern boundary of the Terra Aus- company's trails, another expedition, fitted out by the Dutch West "^P»='i'i"^n- India Company to cruise in the South Sea, dispelled the delusive notions which had been entertained regarding the extent of the Staten Land discovered by Schouten and his colleague. The command of this entcrpi ise was intrusted to Ilendrick Brower, who sailed from the Texel on the 6th November 1642, and reached the en- trance of Strait Le Maire on the 6th of March following. The day was very clear, and the whole surface of Staten Land was plainly revealed ; and instead of being part of a large continent extending to New Holland, was found to be a small island, nine or ten of their miles, as they calculated, in length. The winds were unfavour- able for their passage through the strait, and they re- solved to sail to the east of the isle. This they did without meeting any obstacle, and thence pursued the passage by Cape Horn into the South Sea, where no better fortune awaited them than had been experienced CHAP. IV. Browne's Strait Tasman's second voyage. Discovery by La li.che. Adventures of the Lucc-aneers Vci'iJlcjiity. 130 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES by the ill-fated Nassau Fleet. Tlie nc«me of Brewer's Strait was given to the track whic^ he had pursued round Staten Tsland, from a belief that there existed lands to the eastwaid. After this voyage, a long period elapsed, marked by an almost total cessation of maritime enterprise. In 1644, it is true, Tasman was again sent out, with instructions to ascertain whether New Guinea, New Holland, and Va:i Diemen's Land, were one conti- nent, or separated by straits. No record of his voyage, however, has been preserved, and if he made any dis- coveries they soon passed into oblivion. In 1676, a merchant of the name of La Roche, born in London of French parents, observed, to the east of Staten Land, an island which appears to be identical with the New Georgia of Cook ; and these are the only expcuitions on record, from the date of Erower's voyage till we come to the adventures of the Buccaneers, in the latter pari of the century. Many of these rovers became desirous of trying their fortune in the South Seas, and fitted out for that pur- pose a vessel of eighteen guns, in which they sailed from the Chesapeake 23d August 1683. They were commanded by Captain John Cook, and among their number were several who were afterwards known to fame, — William Dampier, Edward Davis, Lionel Wafer, and Ambrose Cowley. On tlie coast of Guinea they captured a ship whijh they christened the Bachelor's Delight, and, having burned their old vessel " that she might tell no i-ales," embarked on board the^'r prize. In January 1684, they saw the islands first visited by Davis, and at that time distinguished by the appella- tion of Sibald de Weert. The editor of the journal left by Cowley, one of the historians of the voyage, anxious to flatter the Secretary of the Admiralty, re- presented these as a new discovery, and gave to them the name of Pepys, — a circumstance which we shall hereafter see occasioned much perplexity and useless soai oh. After passing Cape Horn, the Buccaneers touch- ed at Juan Fernandez, and thence set sail for the coast OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 131 of Mexico, having been joined in their cruise by the ship Nicholas of London, under the command of John Eaton. In July, Captain Cook died, and was suc- ceeded as chief officer by Edward Davis ; and in Sep- tember Eaton and Davis parted company, — the former, with whom went Cowley, sailing for the East Indies, and the latter remaining in the South Sea. Shortly after this event, Davis was joined by tho Cygnet, Cap- tain Swan, as also by a small bark, manned by Buc- caneers ; and with this united force, which was still farther augmented by French adventurers, the rovers continued to carry on their depredations with varying success until August 1685. At that time serious dis- sensions arose, and Swan, leaving his consorts, determin- ed to sail northward to the Californian coast, with the intention of proceeding to the East Indies. In this voyage he was accompanied l)y Dampier, who has left a narrative of the expedition. It was the 31st of March 1686 before they quitted the American coast and stood westward across the Pacific, nor did they reach the Ladrones until May. After departing from these, they visited in succession the Bashee Islands, the Phi- lippines, Celebes, Timor, and New Holland. In April 1688, they were at the Nicobar Islands, and here Dam- pier quitted the expedition, and found his way to England in 1691. The Cygnet afterwards perished off Madagas- car. In the career of Davis, who, as has been mentioned, remained in the South Sea, the most remarkable event was the discovery of an island named after him, and now generally identified with Easter Island. In 1688, this bold mariner returned to the West Indies.* The last ten years o^ the seventeenth century are almost entirely barren in discovery. In 1690, an ex- pedition, fitted out partly for privateering, partly for trading purposes, and placed under the command of Captain John Strong, brought to light, in their course to the South Sea, the passage between the two larger * For a minute narrative of this voyaj^e, and an account of the rise and history of the Buccaneers, the reader is referred 1 tho Lives and Voya>res of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier. CHAP. IV. Death of Captain Jamea Cook. Nrtrrat'vc of Dumpier. ^-'!scn^•prv hi t!ie South Sea. Fxpertitinn of Ciiptaiii Strong. CHAP. IV. Falkland Sound. Dampler's voyage. Progress ot discovery in tlie seventeenth century. Adv^inces in gcoKi-aphi' cal tiuience. 132 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES islands of the Falkland group. He named this channel Falkland Sound, — a term v/hich has since been generally applied to the islands themselves. In 1699, M. de Beauchesne Gouin, a French commander, detected an island to the east of Tierra del Fuego, and bestowed on it his own name, which it still retains. The same year was marked by a voyage under the auspices of the British government expressly for the extension of geo- graphical science. It was placed under the direction of Dampier, and its object was the more minute examina- tion of New Holland and New Guinea. It added much to our knowledge of these countries, and is the most import- ant contribution to science made by that navigator. In reviewing the progress of discovery in ti>e sf^ en- teenth century, it will be seen that enterprise Inr ii' I during its latter years, and that almost every addition made to our knowledge was effected in the earlier por- tion of it. During that time were made the important acquisitions of Staten Island, Strait Le Maire, and Cape Horn, and of several harbours and islands of Tierra del Fuego. In the more central parts of the Pacific there were visited the New Hebrides, the groups of the Society and Friendly Islands, and mrny of the smaller isles scattered over the great ocean. On. the Asiatic side, some information had been obtained of New Holland, Van Diemen's Land, and New Zealand. The coasts of New Guinea were more ai curately examined, and many of the islands which stretch along its shores were ex- plored. The existence of a strait between New Guinea and New Holland was ascertained ; though, from acci- dental circumstances, the memory of this achievement was soon lost. Such were the advances made in geo- graphical science during the first forty years of the century ; the remaining portion was undistinguished by any acquisition of great importance. In this long space we have to enumerate only the discoveries of one of the Carolines, which gave its name to the group, of New Georgia, Easter and Beauchesne Islands, Falkland Sounl, and a survey of some parts of Australia. Of the three circumnavigations made in the course of OP THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 133 t> Preocciipa- tion of England this age, all were performed by the Dvitch.* Spain had OHAP. iv. now withdrawn from the field of enterprise into which DutciTenter- she was the first to enter ; and during tlie seventeenth prise. century but one expedition for South Sea discovery of any note ^as fitted out from her ports. England, dis- tracted by the great civil war and other events, had neglected to follow up the career so boldly begun by Drake and Cavendish ; and, with the exception of Dam- pier's voyage to New Holland, her only adventurers in the Pacific were the lawless Buccaneers. To the United Provinces is due the honour of having, during this period, kept up the spirit of investigation, and widely extended the limits of geographical knowledge. * We Iiave followed Biirney and Bougainville in not assigninjj the title of circuninavijj^ations to the expeditions of the Buccaneers between 1683 and 1691, above narrated. We may here also state, that we can neither rank Gemelli Careri (1697) nor M. de Pages (1767-1776) among circumnavigators, because that word can hardly be applied to travellers who, mdeed, encircled the globe, but diil so by crossing the Isthmus of Dariun and several pans of Asia. M. de Pages can have been styled a circumnavigator only by those who hi>d read no farther than the titlepage of his book, and were ignorant of the meaning attached by the 1' rench to the word voyage. -"Voyages autour du Monde et vers les deux Poles. Par Ai- de Pages." Paris, 17»2, 2 vols 8vo. J 34 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE CHAP. V. English CHAPTER V. Circumnavigations from the Beginning of the Eighteenth Century to the Reign of George III. ' '- Tinavijiption of Dampier and Funnel, of Woodes Rogers, Jlipperton and Shelvocke, of Rog^ewein — Easter Island — i ^rnicious Islands — Circumnavigation of Anson — Objects of the Expedition— Passage of Cape Horn — Severe Sufferings of the Crevr — Juan Fernandez — Cruise on the American Coasts — Burn- ing of Payta — Loss of the Gloucester — Tiuian — Capture of the Manilla Galleon — Return of the Centurion to England — Fate of the Wager. The early part of the eighteenth century was marked by numerous privateering voyages to the South Sea, voyages to tlie South Sea. privateering generally undertaken by English merchants ; expedi- tions which, inde< d, served little to advance either ma- ritime science or the reputation of British seamen. Tlie principle which almost invariably regulated them M'as, " No prizes no pay," and this led to continual disorder and insubordination. The commanders, too frequently, were men of no education, of dissipated habits, and of violent and avaricious dispositions. Altogetlier, the narrative of these buccaneering adventures is one of the least creditable in the naval annals of our country. The first of them which we have to notice, was directed by one whom Captain Basil Hall has not unjustly styled " the prince of voyagers," — ^William Dampier. This skilful navigator sailed from Kinsale in Ireland, on the 11th September 1703, in command of two ships, the St George and the Cinque Ports galley, and entered the South Sea in the beginning of the fol- Dami;ier. EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 135 lowing year. But even his talents and resolution were chap. v. unable to preserve order among his boisterous crews, nisseiision and the history of their proceedings accordingly is an ft"*! tumult unbroken series of dissension and tumult. On the 10th "I^w?^ of May, these disputes had reached such a height that the vessels agreed to part company. The Cinque Ports, which sailed to the southward, was eventually run ashore, and the people taken prisoners by the Spaniards. In September, anotlier quarrel broke out on board the St George, which led to the desertion of the chief mate, John Clipperton, with twenty-one of the seamen. In January 1705, differences again occurred, and the re- mainder separated into two parties. One of these im- mediately sailed for the East Indies, and, returning to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope, arrived in the Texel in July 1706 : a narrative of their voyage has been left by Funnel. Shortly after this secession, Dampier was Misfortnnus forced to abandon the St George, and to embark in a ^' ^'*"'i'^''- prize which had been taken from the Spaniards. In this he proceeded to the East Indies ; but being unable to produce his commission, which had been stolen from him, it is said, by his mate Clipperton, his vessel was seized by the Dutch, and he himself detained some time a prisoner. In 1708, we again meet this bold seaman as a cir- Posers nnd cumnavigator, in the capacity of pilot to Woodes Rogers, '""^'*'^' who sailed from Cork on the 1st September, in the com- mand of two ships, fitted out by the merchants of Bristol to cruise against the Spaniards in the South Sea. In December, the squadron reached the Falkland Islands, and after being driven to the latitude of 62" south in doubling Cape Horn, arrived in January 1709, at Juan Fernandez, the well-known rendezvous of the Buccaneers. Their visit was the means of restoring to Delivery o civilized life the celebrated Alexander Selkirk, whose Selkirk. residence on this island upwards of four years became, as has been already hinted, the groundwork of Defoe's romance of Robinson Crusoe. After this nearly a twelvemonth was spent in cruising on the coasts of «fl ^?«?=T7srs=!5aRWP»PTEwaBi 13f) FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE CHAP. V. Success of the expedition. New expedi- li ' Peru, Mexico, and California. In January 1710 they sailed across the Pacific, and in March made the Ladrone Islands. They arrived in the Thames on the 14th of October 1711, loaded with a booty which rendered the enterprise highly lucrative to the owners. With this voyage closed the long and checkered life of Dampier ; on his return to England he sunk into an obscurity which none of his biographers has yet succeeded in re- moving.* Tlie success of this expedition led soon afterwards tion pUiuKd. ^Q another of a similar description. In 1718, the war which was then waged between Spain and the German empire appeared to some " worthy gentlemen of London, and persons of distinction," to afford a favourable op- portunity of cruising against the subjects of the former country in the South Sea, under commissions from Charles VI. Accordingly, two ships, the Success of thirty-six guns and the Speedwell of twenty-four, were fitted out in the river Thames. To give some colour to the design, their names were clianged into the Prince Eugene and the Staremberg ; and this latter vessel was despatched to Ostend, under the command of Captain George Shelvocke, to take on board some Flemish officers and seamen, and to receive the commioolon from the emperor. The conduct of this gentleman, while en- gaged in these preparations, was by the owners con- sidered imprudent, and, on his return to England, he was superseded in his office of commander-in-chief by Clipperton (who had sailed as mate with Dampier in the St George), though he was allowed to continue in charge of the Staremberg. During the course of these arrangements. Great Britain declared war against Spain ; the imperial authority was in consequence laid aside, and the Flemish officers and seamen discharged ; the Commission from tlie emperor. • For an account of the voyages and circumnavigations in which Dumpier bore a part, more full and detailed than was compatible with the plan of the present volume, the reader is referred to " Lives and Voynges of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier." EIOnXEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 137 ships recovered their original names, and were manned with English crews. Thus fitted out, the Success and Speedwell sailed from Plymouth on the 13th February 1719. Six days after, a violent storm arose, and both ships were obliged to pass the niglit under bare poles. The gale abated on the following evening, when they again proceeded, the former under Clipperton holding a south-easterly di- rection, while Captain Shelvocke in the latter stood to the north-west, — a difference of course which so effec- tually disjoined them, " that from that day they never saw each other till they met in the South Seas by mere accident." It will be necessary, therefore, in the notice of this expedition, to give distinct narratives of the pro- ceedings of the two commanders. When they parted company, the whole stock of wine, brandy, and other liquors, designed for the supply of both ships, was on board the Speedwell ; and this cir- cumstance has generally been admitted as evidence in favour of Clipperton, that the separation could not be designed on his part. It is certain that, after losing sight of his consort, he immediately set sail for the Canary Islands, the first rendezvous which had been agreed on in case of losing each other. He arrived there on the 6th March, and, after having waited ten days in vain, set sail for the Cape de Verd Islands, the second place appointed for their meeting. Having cruised here also an equal period, and hearing nothing of Shelvocke, he directed his course for the Straits of Magellan, at the eastern entrance of which he arrived on the 29th May. During this passage several of the seamen died, and much hardship and privation had been experienced ; and on the 18th of August, when he reached tlie South Sea, the crew were in such an enfeebled condition, " that it was simply impossible for them to undertake any thing immediately." In conformity, therefore, with his instructions, which appointed Juan Fernandez as the third rendezvous, Clipperton immediately proceeded thither, and remained about a month, after which he CHAP. V. Departure ot tlie Success ind Speed- well. i Separntlon of the ships. Good faith of Clippuituii. Hardsliiis and privu^ tions. 130 CHAP. V. Capture of prizes. Loss of Ills booty. Jloeting of tliti cuusorts. Fate of Clipperton. PROM THE BEGINNING OF THE departed for the coast of Peru, which he reached in October. Although he had lost upwards of thirty of his men prior to the time of his quitting the island just named, he was so successful as, in the course of little more than four weeks, to have taken five prizes, some of them of considerable value, besides one which he captured, but which subsequently made her escape. On the 27th of November, he despatched a vessel to Brazil, loaded with booty valued at more than £10,000 ; but she never reached her destination, having, there is reason to think, been intercepted by the Spaniards. From this time to the beginning of 1721, he continued to cruise on the Ameri- can coast with indifferent success. On the 25th Janu- ary in that year, he met with Shelvocke near the island of Quibo, and, after exchanging a few stores, parted company on the succeeding day. During their stay on the Mexican shore, they again met on four different oc- casions. On three of these, they passed each other without speaking ; and on the fourth, a proposal made by Clipperton, that they should sail in company, met with no success. This took place on the 13th of March ; and, four days afterwards, the last-named officer sailed for China. About the middle of May, he made Guahan, one of the Ladrones, his departure from which was hastened by an unfortunate quarrel, which ter- minated to his disadvantage. On the 2d of July, he arrived in China, when the disputes which ensued re- garding the division of plunder were referred to the judgment of the native authorities. These awarded to the proprietors £6000, to the common seamen £97, ISs. 4d. each, and to the captain £1466, lOs. The owners' share was committed to a Portuguese ship, which took fire in the harbour of Rio Janeiro, and not more than £1800 of the property was saved. Clipperton's vessel was sold at Macao, and her crew returned home. The unfortu- nate commander reached Gal way in Ireland, in the be- ginning of June 1722, where he died within a week after his arrival. On parting with his consort, Shelvocke contrived so to EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO OEORQE III. 139 manage hi8 course that he did not reach the Canaries chap. v. until the l7th of March, two days after the other had proci^nRs departed. Having icmained there more than a week, of sheivocke. he proceeded to the Cape de Verd Islands, where he also waited some time for Clipperton. After plunder- ing a Portuguese vessel on the coast of Brazil, he passed Strait Le Maire, and in rounding Cape Horn experienced such tempestuous weather, that he was driven to a high southern latitude. He seems to have been much struck Driven into ■with the bleakness of these cold and steril regions : ''''^H^""i" ,, __r , , „ , ,, , . , „ « , « cm latitude. " We had not, he says, " the sight of one fish of any kind since we were come to the southward of the Streights of Le Maire, nor one seabird, except a discon- solate black albatross, which accompanied us for several days, hovering about us as if it had lost itself ; till Mr Hatley, observing in one of his melancholy fits that this bird was always hovering near us, imagined from its colour that it might be an ill omen ; and so, after some fruitless attempts, at length shot the albatross, not '"'°*^^**'*°'"' doubting that we should have a fair w^ind after it." * * This incident is believed to have ^\\en rise to tlie late Mr Sanniel Taylor Coleridge's wild and beautiful poem of " The Rime of the Ancient Mariner." <' And now there came both mist and snow, And it grew wond'rous cold, And ice mast high came floating by, As green as emerald. « « « * * Nor shapes of men nor beasts we ken, The ice was all between. « ♦ • » ♦ At length did cross an albatross. Thorough the fog it came. And a good south wind sprung up behind. The albatross did follow ; And every day for food or play. Came to the mariner's hollo ! In mist or cloud, on mast or shroud It perch'd for vespers nine. fl I shot the albatross. * * with my cross-bow 140 FROM THE BEGINNING OP THE CIIAP.V. Arrival at tlie InIuikI of Cliiloe. ^. 'recked on tlic island of . I nan l-'ernandez. Capture of a i^paniiih ship At length, about the middle of November, he made the western coast, and on the 30th of the same month an- chored at the island of Chiloe. His instructions were, that on entering the South Sea he should immediately proceed to Juan Fernandez ; but it was not until the nth of January 1720 that he repaired thither to inquire about his colleague, who Lad been there about three months previously. He remained only four days, and then steered towards the shores of Peru, along which he cruised till the beginning of May, capturing several vessels, and burning the town of Payta. On the 11th of the same month he returned to Juan Fernandez, off which, partly for the purposes of watering and partly detained by bad weather, he remained until the 25th, when his ship was driven on shore and became a wreck. With the loss of one man, the crew succeeded in gain- ing the land, carrying along with them a few of their stores. Little unanimity subsisted among' the seamen ; and hence the building of a new vessel in which they were employed proceeded but slowly. It was not until the 5th of October tliat their rude bark was launched, which even then was considered so insufficient, that twenty-four of them chose rather to remain on the island than trust themselves to the ocean in such a feeble structure. On the 6th, Shclvocke and forty-six others put to sea, and stood eastward for the shores of the continent. After two ineffectual attempts on different vessels, he succeeded in capturing a Spanish ship of 200 ions bur- den, into which he transferred his crew, and abandoned the sloop. Being once more in a condition to commit hostilities, he continued to cruise along the coast, from Chili northward to California, until about the middle of the year 1721. During this period, as has been al- Then all averr'd I had kill'd the bird That broufrht the fo}r and mist ; 'Twas ri^ht, said they, such birds to slay That bring the fog' and mist." Coleridyes Foetical IVorks. Lend. 1834, vol. ii. p. 3-fi. EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. Ill ready mentioned, he met Clipperton, with whom he chap. v. finally parted towards the end of March. On the 18th -. of August he sailed from California for China, and on from the 2l8t discovered an island to which his own name ^t'l??"!"'.* ' was given, though there seems good reason for suppos- ing it to be the same with Roca Partida, one of the Revillagigedo Isles, seen by Spilbergen and other early voyagers.* On the 11th November he reached his des- tination, and anchored in the river of Canton, where he sold his prize, dividing the plunder which he had acquired among his crew. On this occasion, the able seamen received £440, 7s. 2d. each,and the commander's share amounted to £'2642, 10s. He soon afterwards Arrival In procured a passage to England in an East Indiaman, KuRiand a »l and landed at Dover on the 30th July 1722. He was arrested, and two prosecutions instituted against him, — the one for piracy, and the other for defrauding his proprietors. Of these the first was abandoned for want of evidence, and the second was interrupted by his escape from prison and flight from the kingdom. He afterwards succeeded in compounding with the owners, and having returned he published an account of his voyage. The next circumnavigation was that accomplished by Jacob Jacob Roggewein, a Dutchman.t An injunction to ^^^^gewc n, prosecute the search for southern lands had, it is said, been laid upon him by his father a short time before his death. This last had, in the year 16G9, presented a memorial to the Dutch West India Company, con- taining a scheme for discovery in the South Sea, and * Bnrney, Chron. Hist, Discov., vol. iv. p, fioL •f" Two accounts of Rof^jjewein's vojajj^e exist. The first appear- ed without the author's name at Dort, in 17-'^ under the title of " Twee Jaari^e Reyze rondom de Wereld," — A Two Years' Voyage round the World. The second, written in German, was printed at Leipsic in 1738; — a French translation was published at the Hajijue in 1/39. This work was written by Charles Frederick Behrens, a native of Mecklenburg, who was sergeant and commander of the troops in Rojjgewein's fleet. Both accounts have been translated by Mr Dalryinple (Hist. Coll., vol. iL p. t]a-I2U), who termiuutfs his valuable work with this voyage. r ■ i t \ \ ,;■ , ' ''- .1 ! ■ ': U 1 ^^ ■p 142 FROM THE BEGINNING OP THE Plan of file elder lioggcwcin Expeditious picimrution of vcsaels, . II CHAP. V. his proposals weu so wi'll received, that some vessels were equipped for the purpose ; but the disturbances between the United Provinces and Spain put a btop to the project. In 1721, it was renewed by his son, in an application to the same association, which bore a refer- ence to the memorial of his fatlier. It has been in- sinuated, that the readiness with which the request of Roggewein was conceded, had its origin, less in a desire for the advancement of science than in interested mo- tives. No time, it is certain, was lost in preparing the expedition, which consisted of three vessels, the largest carrying 36 guns, and manned by 111 men. These sailed from the Texel on the 21 st August 1721, and in November were off the coast of Brazil, from which they " went in quest of the island of Auke's Magdeland (Hawkins* Maiden-land), but could find no such place."* Tiiey were equally unsuccessful in another attempt to identify the same island under the different name of St Louis ; but on the 21st December y had the good fortune to see one, to which they the appellation of Belgia Australis, and in which, tiiough they chose not to perceive it, they only re-discovered the Maiiien-land and Isles of St Louis. On the same day, one of the vessels was separated from her consorts in a violent storm. On the 10th March, Roggewein came in sight of the coast of Chili, and on the eighteenth anchored at Juan Ferrandez, where he remained three weeks. On leaving this port he directed his course for Davis* Land, which, like Hawkins* Maiden-land, he failed to trace, or at least affected not to recognise : pretending that he had made a new discovery, he exercised the privilege of a first visiter in bestowing on it a name, that of Paaschen, Oster or Easter Island. While they were sailing along the shore in search of anchorage, a native came off in his canoe, who was kindly treated, and presented with a piece of cloth and a variety oi Arrival lit Juan Fernandez. Assumed discoveries. Dalrj'niple, Hiiit. Coll., vol. ii. p. 88. EIOUTEENTII CENTURY TO OEOROE III. 113 CHAP. V, baubles. Ho was naturally of a dark-brown complex- ion, but his body was painted all over with figures, and his ears were of a size so unnatural ** that they hung nplj^uranro down upon his shoulders," occasioned, as the Europeans "» » nutiva conjectured, by the use of largo and heavy earrings. " A glass of wine," says one of the journals of the voyage, " was given to him ; ho took it, but instead of drhiking it, he threw it in his eyes, which surprised us very much." Ho seemed so fascinated with the strangers that it was with difficulty he was prevailed on to depart ; — " he looked at them with regret ; he held up both his hands towards his native island, and cried out in a very audible and distinct voice, *Odorroga! odorroga!'"* — exclamations which were supposed to be addressed to his god, from the many idols observed along the coast. The succeeding day the discoverers anchored close to inteiTievr the island, and were invnediately surrounded by many with tiio thousands of the inhabitants, some of whom brought with them fowls and provisions, while others " remained on the shore, running to and fro from one place to another like wild beasts." They were also observed to make fires at the feet of their idols, as if to offer up their prayers and sacrifices before them. On the following day, as the Hollanders were preparing to land, the savages were seen to prostrate themselves with their fiaces towards the rising sun, and to light many fires, apparently to present burnt-offerings to their divinities. Several of them went on board the ship, Native pvicst. among whom one man quite A'hite was conjectured, from his devout a'.d solemn gestures, to be a priest, and was distinguished by wearing wl ite earrings of a round shape and of size equal to a man's fist. The sailors, upon returning this visit, commenced an attack, ap- parently unprovoked, on the natives, and by a heavy slaughter taught them the deadly efficacy of the musket. They are desdibed as having " made the most surpris- • Dalrymple, Hist Coll., vol. ii, pp 90, 91. f Hi \4i FROM XnE BEGINNING OF THE I ! CHAR V. Unprovoked slaufrliter of tlie natives. Recrets of tlicir assailants. Appearance of t'le K-ster Ii^ijulers. ing motions and gestures in the world, and viewed their fallen companions with the utmost astonishment, wonder- ing at the wounds the bullets had made in their bodies." Though dismayed, they again rallied and advanced to within ten paces of their enemies, under an impression of safety, which a second discharge of fire-arms too fatally dissipated. Among those wlio fell was the in- dividual that first came on board, — a circumstance, says the journalist " which chagrined us much." Shortly after, the vanquished returned and endeavoured to redeem the dead bodies of their countrymen. They approached in procession, carrying palm-branches and a sort of red and white flag, and uttering doleful cries and sounds of lamentation ; they then threw themselves on their knees, tendered their presents of plantains, nuts, roots, and fowls, and sought, by the most earnest and humble attitudes, to deprecate the wrath of the strangers. The lustorian represents his companions as :o affected with all these demonstrations of humility and submission, that they made the islanders a present " of a whole piece of painted cloth, fifty or sixty yai'ds long, bead^, small looking-glasses, &c." They returned to their ships in the evening with the intention to revisit the island on the succeeding day ; but this design was frustrated by a storm, which drove them from their anchors and obliged them to stand out into the open sea. The inhabitants of Easter Island are described as being of a well-proportioned stature, thou^,J rather slender, of complexions generally brown, but, in some instances, of European whiteness. They delineate on their bodies figures of birds and other animals ; and a great piupoHion of the females were "painted with a rouge, very bright, which much surpasses that known to us ;" and had dresses of red and white cloth, soft to the touch like silk, with a small hat made of straw or rushes. They were generally of a mild flisposition, with a soft and pleasing expression of countenance, and so timid, that when they brought presents to the EIGHTEENTH CtHTURY TO GEORGE 111. 145 CHAP. V. m w Womai. of Easier Island- voyagers, they threw the gift at their feet and made n ExtrcTno precipitate retreat. Their ears, as already noticed, timidity. were so elongated as to hang down to their shoulders, and wefe sometimes ornamented witii large white rings of a globular form. Their huts were about fifty feet Their hutsw lo!ig and seven broad, built of a number of poles cemented with a fat earth or clay, and covered with the leaves of the palm-tiee. They had earthen vessels for preparing their victuals, but possessed few other articles of furniture. No arms were perceived among them, and their sole defence from the cruel hostilities of their visiters appeared to be reposed in their idols. These were gigantic pillar. " stone, having on the top the figure oi u human head adorned with a crown or ; I ( H. 146 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE CHAP. V. Names of their idola. Nature of their govern- ment Gicantic size. Course of t!io voyagers. garland, fonned of small stones inlaid with considerable skill. The names of two of these idols have been pre- served, — Taurico and Dago ; and the Hollanders thought they perceived indications of a priesthood, the memberi of which were distinguished by their ponderous ear- rings, by having their heads shaven, and by wearing a bonnet of black and white feathers. The food of the inhabitants consisted entirely of the fruits of their land, which was carefully cultivated and diided into en- closures. No traces were found of a supreme chief or ruler, nor was any distinction of ranks observed, except that the aged bore staves, and had plumes on their head?^ .And that in families the oldest member appeared to exercise authority. It would be improper to pass without notice the fabulous account of the immense stature of the natives, given, in one of the accounts of the voyage, with the strongest protestations of its truth: — "AH these savages are of more than gigantic size ; for the men, b^ing twice as tall and thick as the largest of our people, they measured, one with another, the height of twelve feet, so that we could easily — who will not wonder at it ! — without stooping, have passed betwixt the legs of these sons of Goli.ah. According to their height, so is their thickness, and all are, one with another, very well proportioned, so that each could have passed for a liercules." It is added, that the females do not altogether come up to these formidable dimensions, " being commonly not above ten or eleven feet!"* From Easter Island the Dutchman pursued a course nearly north-west, and about the middle of May caine in sight of an island, to which he gave the name of * Dalrymple, vol. ii. p. 113. " I doubt not," adds the Journal- ist, " but most people vvbo read this voyage will give no credit to what I now relat*^, and that this account of the height of these giants will probably pass with them for a mere fable or fiction; but tins I declare, that I have put down nothing but the real truth, and that this people, upon the nicest inspection, were in fact of such a surpassing height as I have here described." EIGHT r.KNTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 147 Carls-hofF, which it still retains. After leaving this, one of his vessels suddenly ran aground and was wrecked, on a cluster of low islands, which he distinguished by the epithet of Schaadelyk or Pernicious. These are generally supposed to be identical with Palliser's Islands ; and modern voyagers seem to have observed in the vicinity traces of Roggewein*s visit and shipwreck.* Among these he sailed five days, and on the 2.5th May discovered two small ones, probably the Bottomless and Fly Island of Schouten and Le IVIaire.-}- A few days later, he perceived a group, to which he gave the appellation of Irrigen or the Labyrinth ; and, continu- ing in the same westerly course, on the 1st of June reached an island which he denominated Vcrquikking or Recreation, and which is supposed to be Uliatea, one of the Society cluster, — a conjecture rendered more probable by the tradition prevalent among the natives, of their having been visited by Europeans. The navi- gatore found their landing opposed by the inhabitants, who were armed with pikes, and who did not withdraw tiieir opposition until they were overpowered by fire- arms. On the succeeding day another conflict ensued, wlien the event wa litFcrent; the invaders were ob- liged to retreat, aftci iuiving some of their men killed and many severely wounded. The jH<oplc are described as robust and tall, their hair long and Mack, '"'eir bodies painted, and their dress consisting of a kind oi network round the waist. Shortly after quieting Recreation Isla; 1, it was de- termined in a general council of officer, that to sail back by the co- .vSe which they had traversed was im- possible, and that they were therefore under tl neces- sity of going home by the East Indies. In ^ordance with this resolution, they continued to steer westward, and on the 15th of June reached a cluster of islands, which they called Bauman, supposed to be the Navi- CIIAP. V. Wreck of one of the sliiifl. Recrc:i:ior Island. Conflict with tiie natives. rui'thor route ile;cr- uiiued Jii. • Rnrnoy, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iv. \\ 6/'). •f* See above, pp. 106, lOj. J 48 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE CHAP. V. gators* Isles of the present maps. From this point the Siitr.iinKs of ^^^^^^ ^^ Ruggewcin coincided too closely with that ol tlie crew. Arrival at Java. Appeal to General. War Tietwoer Spain ai.d Britain. Schouten and other discoverers, to offer much of novelty or interest ; nor has this part of his voy ige been very clearly narrated. The scurvy broke out among his crew and committed frightful ravages : " There was nothing," says a journalist of the voyage, " to be seen on board, but sick people struggling with inexpressible pains, and dead carcasses that were just released from tliem, and from which arose so intolerable a smell, that such as yet remained sound were not able to endure, but frequently swooned with it. Cries and groans were perpetually ringing in their ears, and the very sight of the people moving about was sufficient to excite at once terror and compassion." In the month of Sep- tember, he arrived at Java, with the loss of not fewer than seventy men by sickness, besides those killed in his conflicts with the islanders ; and in October proceeded to Butavia, where his ships were arrested by the Dutch East India Company, condimned, and sold by public auction. The crews were sent home free of expense, and landed at Amsterdam on the 28th July, " the very same day two years that they sailed on this voyage." Against these proceedings, the West India Company sought redress in an appeal to the States General, who ordained the East India Company to make full com- pensation for the vessels, — a decision which, when the judgment in the more favourable case of Schouten and Le iMaire is considered, it may be not uncandid to sup- pose, proceeded more from the superior influence of the appellants than froni the array of legal arguments on their side. After tlic voyage of Roggewein, twenty years passed without witnessing one expedition to the Pacific of the slightest importance. When war broke out between this country and the Spaniards in 1739, among other measures adopted l)y the British administration, it was resolved to send an armament into the South Sea?: to attack their trade and settlements in that part of ihe world, in the hope EIGHTEENTU CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 1-IS) Geortju An:ion. of cutting off the supplies which they derived from chap. v. their colonies. The original \> in of this expedition jj was as magnificent as the actual equipment of it was equipment mean. It was intended that two squadrons should he gnil^jjy/^ despatched, the one to proceed directly by the Cape of Good Hope to Manilla, in the Philippines ; the other to double Cape Horn, and, after cruising along the western coast of South America, to join the former, when both were to act in concert. But of this romantic scheme only one-half was put in e\ecution ; and that, too, in a spirit of petty econoir.3; quite inconsistent with the success of the enterprise. The attack on Manilla was abandoned, and the design limited to the fitting out of a few ships to cruise in the South Seas, under the com- mand of Captain George Anson. This officer received his commission early in January Captain 1740 ; but so tardy were the proceedings of the govern, ment, that his instructions were not delivered to him until the end of June ; and when in virtue of these he repaired to his squadron, in the expectation of being able to sail with the first fr.'r wind, he found that he liad to encounter difficulties which detained him nearly three months longer. Three hundred able seamen were wanting to complete the crews ; and in place of those. Commodore Anson, after a tedious delay, was able to inemcient obtain only 170 men, of whom thirty-two were drafted the vessels from sick-rooms and hospitals, ninety-eight were marines, and three were infantry officers; the remainder, amount- ing to thirty-seven, were regular Kiilors. It was part of the original plan to furnish the squadron with an entire regiment, and three Independent companies of 100 men each ; but this design was laid aside, and the ships were ordered to be supplied with 500 invalids collected from the out-pensioners of Chelsea Hospital. These consisted of such soldiers as, from their age, wounds, or other in- firmities, were incapable of serving ; and Anson re- monstrated against the absurdity of sending them on an expedition of so great length, and which must be attended by so many hardships and privations ; but )| 750 FROM THE BEQINNINO OP THE CfiAP. V. hU representations, though supported by those of Sir Ciiarles Wager, only drev forth the answer, "that Unsuccess- ful remon- strance of Anson. Dissatisfac- tion of tlio crews. persons who were supposed to be better jiidges ot soldiers than he or Mr Anson, thought them the pro- perest men that could be employed on this occasion." * This admitted of no reply, and the veterans were ac- cordingly ordered on board the squadron. Instead, however, of 600, there appeared no more than 269 ; for all who were able to walk away had deserted, leav- ing behind them only the very dregs of their corps, men for the most part sixty years of age, and some of them upwards of seventy. The embarkation of these aged warriors is described as having been singularly affecting. Their reluctance to the service was visible in their countenances, on which were seen also apprehension of the dangers they Avere to encounter, and indignation at being thus dragged into an enterprise which they could noways assist, and in which, after having spent their youthful vigour in the service of their country, they were * " A Voyage round the World in the Years 1740-1-2-3-4, by Gcor^;e Anson, Esq., Commander-in-Chief of a Squadron of his Ma- jesty's Ships sent upon an Expedition to the South Seas. Com- piled from Papers and other Materials of the Right Honourable George Lord Anson, and published under his Direction. By Richard Waiter, M.A., Chaplain of his Majesty's Ship the Centurion. London, 1740,'' 4to, p. 6. This is the principal authority for the circumnavigation of Anson, and has ever been popular and highly admired for the beauty of the narrative and vividness of the de- scriptions. In this last point, indeed, there is reason to fear that accuracy is sacrificed to effect. An attempt was made to deprive Walter of the honour of this work, which is attributed to Benjamin Robins, F.R.S,, author of Mathematical Tracts, London, 1 701, 2 vols Uvo, and otiier works. This question has .been amply dis- cussed; but there appears no decisive evidence of Robins claim. Those wlio are anxious to enter into the discussion may be refer- red to the preface, by James Wilson, to the Mathematical Tracts above mentioned ; to Nicol's Literary Anecdotes of the Eigh- teenth Century, vol. ii. p. 20fi; to the Biographia Britannica, voce Anson ; and to the Corrigenda and Addenda to that Article inserted in the 4th volume of the work. Besides Walter's narrative, them appeared " A True and Impartial Journal of a Voyage to the South Seas, and round the Globe, in his Majesty's Ship the Centurion, under the Command of Commodore George Anson. By Pascoe Thomas, Teacher of the Mathematics oa board the Centurion. London, 1745," 8vo. EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 151 le too probably doomed to perish. To expose the cruelty chap. v. of this measure, it need only be stated, that not one of — these unhappy men wiio reached the South Sea lived to procculihiga!" return to his native shores.* To supply tlie room of the 241 invalids who had deserted, raw and undisciplin- ed marines, amounting to nearly the same number, were selected from diflFercnt ships and sent on hoard ; upon which the squadron sailed from Spithead to St Helens, to await a favourable wind. It consisted of eight vesselsofti vessels, the Centurion of sixty guns ; the Gloucester and squadron the Severn of fifty each ; the Pearl of forty ; the Wager of twenty-eight ;t the Tryal sloop of eight ; and two store-ships ; and, exclusive of the crews of these last, contained about 2000 men. After being thrice forced back by adverse winds, they finally sailed from St Helens on the 18th September 1740; and, having touched at Madeira, anchored on the 18th December at the island of Santa Catalina, on the coast of Brazil, where they remained about a month. They arrived at Port San Julian in the middle of Entranpc of February 1741 ; and on the 7th March entered Strait Llfi?"''' Le Maire, where, though winter was advancing apace, they experienced a brightness of sky and serenity of weather which inspired them with high hopes that the greatest difficulties of their voyage were past. " Thus animated by these delusions," says Mr Walter, " we traversed these memorable straits, ignorant of the dread- ful calamities that were then impending and just ready to burst upon us ; ignorant that the time drew near when the squadron would be separated never to unite again, and that this day of our passage was the last cheerful day that the greatest part of us would ever live to enjoy." ij: The last of the ships had scarcely cleared Chamrc of the straits, when the sky suddenly changed, and ex hibited all the appearances of an approaching storm, which soon burst with such violence, that two of them • Burney, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. v. p. 40. + According to Thomas (p. 2) the Wager can led but 20 gv.as. $ Waher, p. 76 luire. woatncr. CHAP. V. Drciulful btonn. ':i Injuries to tliesuuuii'U. SnfferinRS and extromo Diortiility of the crew. 102 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE with difficulty escaped being run ashore on Staten Land. From this time to the 25th May, the expedition en- countered a succession of the most tempestuous weather. The oldest mariners confessed that the fury of the winds and the mountainous waves surpassed any thing they had ever witnessed. " Our ship,'* says Thomas, who sailed in the Centurion, " was nothing to them ; but, notwithstanding her large bulk and de<>p hold iii the water, was tossed and bandied as if she had been no more than a little pitiful wherry." * The sails were frequently split in tatters, and blown from the yards ; the yards themselves were often snapped across ; and the shrouds and other rigging were repeatedly blown to l)ieces. The upper works were rendered so loose as to admit water at every scam ; the beds were almost continually wet, and the men were often driven from them by the rushing in of the waves. The rolling of the vessel was so great, that the seamen were in danger of being dashed to pieces against her decks or sides ; they were often forced from the objects they had taken hold of to secure themselves from falling, and, in spite of every precaution, met numerous accidents ; one had his neck dislocated, anoth' who was pitched below, had his thigh fractured, and a I)oatswain's mate had his collar-bone twice seriously injured. To add to their misery, the scurvy broke out with great violence ; at first carrying off two or three a- day, but increasing in virulence till the mortality amounted to eight or ten. Few of the crew escaped its attacks, and on these the labour of managing the ship fell so heavilly, " that," says Thomas, " I have on that account seen four or five dead bodies at a time, some sewn up in their hammocks, and others not, washing about the decks for want of help to bury them in the sea." t The disease at last attained such a height that we are informed there were not above twelve or fourteen men, and a few officere capable of doing duty. On the invalids, who had been * Thomas, p. 21. t Ibid. p. 22. Eir.IITEENTII CENTURY TO GEORGE III. i:>3 so cruelly sent on tliis expedition, the disease prodiuted chap. v. the most extraordinary effects ; wounds wliich had been pccuiia^Riir. healed many years now opened, and appeared as if they fuiini-rsoftiie had never been closed, and fractures of bones wliich had been long consolidated now again appeared, as if the cal- lus of the broken bone had been dissolved l)y the disease. The wounds of one aged veteran, which had been re- ceived more than fifty years previous, at the battle of the Boyne, broke out afresh, and seemed as if they had never been healed.* At length, after a period of intense suffering, on the morning of the 8th of May, the crew of Anson's own ship, the Centurion, saw the west- ern coa.st of Patagonia, the high mountains of which were for the most part covered with snow. The island island of of Nuestra Senora del Socorro, whieh had l)een appointed scljlj^ra'dei as the rendezvous of the fleet, was also visible ; but, Sucono. from the weak condition of his crew, the commodore waited here two days, when he set sail for Juan Fer- nandez, abandoning the design whieh had been formed of attacking Baldivia. Short as was Anson's delay on tliis occasion, he has been severely censured for it by Thomas, who declares, — " I verily believe that our touching on this coast, the small stay we made here, and our hinderance by cross winds, which we should have avoided in a direct course to Juan Fernandez, lost us at least sixty or seventy of as stout and able men as any in the navy." t It was not until daybreak of the A"'val 0th of June that they descried the island now named, rernuudcz. which, notwithstanding its rugged and mountainous aspect, says Walter, "was to us a most agreeable sight." An anecdote whicii has been preserved by Dr Beattie may perhaps present a livelier idea of the distress en- dured than a lengthened description : " One who was on board the Centurion in Lord Anson's voyage, having got some money in that expedition, purchased a small estate about three miles from this town (Aberdeen). I have had several conversations with him on the subject of the 1 Walter, p. lOi + Thomas, p. 27. 154 FHOM THE BEGINNING OP TUB Appearanco of land. CHAP. V. voyage, and once asked hiin whether ho had ever read — the liistory of it. He told me he had read all the of extreme history, except the description of their suflFerings during suffeiinjf. ^jjg y^j^ f^^,,^ Capc Horn to Juan Fernandez, which he said were so great that he duret not recollect or think of them." * On the succeeding day they coasted along the shore, at about the distance of two miles, in search of an an- chorage. The mountains, which at first view had ap- peared bare and steril, they now perceived to be covered with luxuriant woods, and between them they could see fertile valleys of the freshest verdure, watered by clear streams, frequently broken into waterfalls. " Tliose only," says Walter, " who have endured a long series of thirst, and who can readily recall the desire and agita- tion which the ideas alone of springs and brooks have at that time raised in them, can judge of the emotion with which we eyed a large cascade of the most transj)arent water, which poured itself from a rock near 100 feet high into the sea, at a small distance from the ship. Even those amongst the diseased, who were not in tlie very last stages of the distemper, though they had been long confined in their hammocks, exerted the small re- mains of strength that was left them, and crawled up to the deck to feast themselves with this reviving pros- pect." t The succeeding day, the Centurion anchored on the north-eastern side of the island ; in the passage from Brazil 200 of her men having died, and 130 of the remainder being on the sick-list. No time was lost in erecting tents and conveying the sick on shore, — a labour in which Anson assisted in person, and exacted the aid of his officers. He continued here some months to recruit the health of his crew, and to wait the arrival of the rest of the squadron. Of the seven vessels which accompanied him from England only three, the Glou- cester, the Tryal sloop, and the Anna store-ship, suc- Delight of the sullui'd'a Time spent at Juan Fei'Hundez. * Sir William Forbes' Li(e of Beattie, vol. ii. p. 36. t Walter, p. 111. EIGHTEENTU CENTUUY TO OEOUGE III. jr>5 ceeded in reaching Juan Fernandez. The Industry had chap. v. l)ccn dismissed on the coast of Brazil, while the Severn and „ .., ~~<. l*carl, which had separated from the commodore in the the Sivei n passage round Cape Horn, returned homewards without "'"' ^''''''''' having entered the South Seas. The Wager, the only remaining one, reached the western coast of Patagonia, where she experienced disasters and sufferings which will be hereafter noticed. Before leaving Juan Fernan- dez the Anna was broken up, and her crew distributed among the other vessels, which stood much in need of this aid ; for, since leaving St Helens, the Centurion oio«t had lost 292 men out of her complement of 606 ; in the mortality. Gloucester there remained only 82 out of 374 ; and in the Tryal, out of 81 there survived but 39.* In short, of upwards of 900 pereons who had left England on board these three vessels, more than 600 were dead. On the 8th of September, while the expedition was Rich prize still at anchor, a strange sail was discovered and chased, *^"^'""^'*' and though she escaped, the English, duriikg lue jiursuit, were fortunate enough to capture another, which proved to be a rich merchantman, bound from Callao to Val- " paraiso, and having on board dollars and plate to the amount of about £18,000 sterling. Intilligence ^\'as obtained from this prize, that there were several su -h vessels on their voyage from Callao to Valparaiso, and, accordingly, no time was lost in despatching the Tryal sloop to cruise off the latter port. In a few days the P"''''"''* "*' Centurion sailed, along with the captured ship, to join the Tryal, leaving the Gloucester at Juan Fernandez, with orders to proceed to Payta, and cruise there until * These statements are made as the nearest approach to acrn- r»i-v which is now attainahle. The numbers of the crews are so loosely mentioned, that, according); to Walter, in one place (n. 14) the Tryal had 100 men, and in another (p. 160) only 81. Witn him the men on board the Centurion are at one time 525, and at another (p. 159) 506; and Pa>coe Thomas rates them in different places (p. 42) 518, 512, and (Appendix, p. 8) 510. The latter author makes the number alive in the Gloucester considerably higher than Walter. " We found," he says, " in a miserable condition, not many above one hundred p-ople alive."— 1\ 31. J5G FROM THE UEOTNNING OP THE Tlie 'Iryal's prize. Attack on I'.iyta. •1:1 CHAP. V. re-enforced by the others. When the commodore fell Jn with the sloop, he found that she had taken a j)rize ; but, being herself in a shattered condition, sluvwas sunk, and her crew transferred to the foreigner, which was n';w commissioned under the name of the Tryal's )'rize. Having disposed his fleet so as best to command the dilferent cities and their trade, Anson continued to cruise along the coasts of Chili and Peru, until nearly the middle of November, when, from information he obtained from a vessel which he had captured, he determined to make an attempt on Payta. Fifty-eight men"* were selected .< '>r this purpose, who embarked in three boats, and rowed for the harbour, whi(!h they had just entered when they were discovered by a ship's crew, who manned their barges, and pulled towords the town shouting, " The English ! the English dogs !" In a few minutes, the hurrying of liglits to and fro, and 'other signs oi" pi-eparation, gave notice that the inhabit- ants were alarmed, and before the assailants could roach the landing-place a cannon-ball from ihe fort whistled over their heads. But ere a second Jischarge could take place the seamen had landed, r.iid, forming into a body, marched in the direction of the governor's house. The noise of the drums which they carried, " the shouts and clamours of threescore sailors confined so long on shipboard, and now for the first time on shore in an enemy's country, joyous, as they always are when they land, and animated in the present case with the hopes of an immense pillage," joined to the sudden nature of the attack and the darkness of the night, struck such a panic into the inhabitants, that in less than a quarter of an hour, and with the loss of one killed and two wounded, the assailants were masters of the town, the governor fleeing from it half-naked and with such precipitation that he most ungallantly left P.iptnvc ot tlie town. * Accordingly t(. Thomas (p. 5b) there were onlj' forty-nine; and this is confirmed by the description of the " plan of Payta," which accompanies Walter's voyage, p. 189. EIOIITEKNTII CnNTUItY TO GRonnR IIT. 157 C'oniplofo MlCfC!<S of tliu IIH.^uil- obtaiiu.'d. behind him his lady, to whom lie hud been but three or chat, v four days married, and who afterwards made her eseape " Avith no other clotlies to eover her but her shift." '* Two uuy2 were occupied in conveying the phinder to the vessels ; and tiiis being eft'eeted the town was set on fire, and, witl> the exception of two churclie.", burned to tile ground ; and, ol' the six ships in the bay five having been sunkt and one cavried olf, " we weighed and came to SCO," says Tjjomas, *' with all our prizes, l)eing six sail, and left this place entirely ruined." The value of the silver coin and plate taken in Payta was reported to jinmenso exceed £30,000,1 and to this there were to be added I'yyty rings, gold watches, and jewels, besides what ])ilhige fell into the hands of the individuals engaged in the attack. Walter mentions a report, that the inhabitants, in their representations to the Spanish court, estimated their loss at a million and a half of dollars. Two days after Success this exploit, Anson was joined by the Gloucester, wliicli (j'i'uLi,^ti, he found had also captured several prizes, having on board bullion to the amount of about .£18,000. It was now resolved to cruise off Cape San Lucas or Cape Corrientes for the Manilla galleon, and the squadron accordingly sailed in that direction. On the .5th De- cember, they anchored at the island of Quibo, where * Thomas, p. .56. Walter, p. 194. From a note in Rmnoy, Cliron. Hist. Discov., .ol. v. p. o7i vve learn that lliis lady was alive in 1791, and acknowledged to an Enj^lish seaman "the lihoral con- duct observed towards prisoners in Commodore Anson's expedition." '|- Burnej', Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. v. p. ftH, states that the five ships were burned; but both Walter fp. 202) and TliomaR (p. ♦•;{) menticm their bein^ sunk. Indeed, one of the illustr. .tions in Wal- ter's voyage (plate 24, p. 201) represents the vessels in the act oF goinij down. ^ This is probably above the truth. IMr Thomas j^ives a spe- cific account of the number ot'ounces ot'bullion captured, and oltheir value, by which ho "makes the whole amount £24,415, 10s. 4(1." He adds, however, as a reason lor his estiniatinjif the value at about £32,000, that though " I know not certainly whether there was any thinj^ in specie farther in this capture, yet I know that j7 was genernllii esteemed to ha near £*J2.000 sterling'' (Ap- pendix, p. 4). The exaggerating effects of a common rumour like this are too well known to be valued as of any bi^h authority. ♦ " 158 FROM THE BKGINNING OF THE ' i Ai : ll OlAP. V. Missing the Manilla galleon. Disappoint- ment oi Ai.son. Setting snil lor Cliinn. they took in a supply of wuler, and remained about three days, wlien they resumed their voyage to the northwards. A succession of unfavourable weather rendered their progress so extremely slow, that they did not make the Mexican coast, a little to the north- west of Acapulco, till the end of January. This was past the usual time of the galleon's app( arance ; hut Anson con- tinued to sail along the coast in hopes of inter. ,;ep'dng her till a late period in February, when he received information that she had arrived the previous month, about twenty days l)cfore he had reached the coast. Tliis intelligence, however, was accompanied with the more gratifying information, that she was to leave Acapulco to return to Manilla in the beginning of March, and with a cargo infinitely more valuable than that which she had brought from the Philippines. The cruise was therefore continued, and with increased strict- ness, every precaution being taken, and the most scru- pulous vigilance observed, until long after the period fixed for her sailing, when the search was abandoned on the supposition, which afterwards proved to be correct, that her departure was delayed for that year, on account of the English fleet. Thus disappointed, Anson formed the resolution of attacking Acapulco, and by that means possessing him- self of the object of his wishes ; but this plan fell to the ground, and, leaving his cutter to watch the Manilla ship, he sailed for the harbour of Chequetan, about thirty leagues westward, to obtain a supply of water. During his stay there, the different vessels which had been cap- tured were destroyed ; and it was resolved that the squadron, which i-.ow consisted of only two ships, the Centurion and Gloucester, should quit the South Seas and sail for China. Various accidents, however, contri- buted to postpone their departure, and it was not until the 6th of May tha*^ they lost sight of the moun- tains ot Mexico. They experienrod much difficulty in getting into the track of the trade-winds, which they e:;pectcd to reach in a few days, but did not meet until ' EKJnXEENTII CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 150 8even or eight weeks after leaving tlie coast. This dis- chap. V. appointment pressed on them the more severely, owing "" to the crazy condition into which their ships had now fallen, more particularly the Gloucester, which sailed very heavily. The scurvy, too, again made its appear- Rpnp\yc(i ance, and raged with a violence little less fatal than that the trews"* which had marked its attacks in the passage round Cape Horn. Though the trade- wind had constantly favoured them from the end of June to the latter part of July, their progress, owing to the distressed condition of the crews, had been so very slow, that by their reckoning* they were still 800 leagues from the Ladrones. At this time they met with a westerly breeze, succeeded by a violent storm, which so damaged the Gloucester as toAbnndon- render her abandonment necessary. Two davs were?.',*;'"' "'^1'.'^ employed in removing her crew and part of her stores on board the Centurion ; and, on the 16th of August, she was set on fire, to prevent her falling into the hands of the Spaniards, to whom the valuable prizo-poods on board would have rendered her a welcome acciuisition. " She burned," says Walter, " very fiercely the whole night, her guns firing successively as the flames reached them ; and it was six in tlie morning, when we were about four leagues distant, before she blew up ; the re- port she made upon this occasion was but a small one, but there was an exceeding black pillar of smoke, which sliot up into the air to a very considerable height."* Though re-enforced by the additional crew, An^on had *^.']i]^'",".^'* Still to struggle with difficulty and distress. The late and distress. storm had drifted him from his course ; there was a leak in his vessel which it was found impossible to btop ; and the scurvy ra^ed with such violence, tliat no day passed in which he did not lose eight or ten, and some- times twelve of the ship's company. At length, at daybreak of the 23d, two islands were discovered to the westward, — " a sight which," says Walter, " gave us all great jo^ , and raif^ed our drooping liiifr \Valt( •r, p HOO. M ]()0 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE jii. I ■ i 1 1 LaiuUng fha sick. CHAP. V. spirits ; for before this a universal dejection had seized Discovery of 'i^j and we almost despaired of ever seeing land again." land. These proved to be two of the Ladrones ; but the ex- hausted seamen remained in sight of them three days without being able to come to an anchor. On the 2Gth three -others were discovered, and the ship's course was directed towards the one in the centre, which was ascer- tained to l)e the island of Tinian. They moored here on the evening of the 28th, and the next day proceeded to hmd their sick, — a labour in which Anson here, as at Juan Fernandez, personally assisted. The accounts which the journalists have left us of this island repre- !>ent it in the most favourable colours ; they dwell on its sunny slopes and gentle declivities, — the beauty ot its lawns, — the luxuriance of its flowers and vegetation, — the grandeur of its forests, and the richness and variety of its fruit-trees. " The fortunate animals, too," it is added, " which for the greatest part of the }ear are the sole lords of this happy soil, partake in some measure of the romantic cast of the island, and are no small addi- tion to its wonderful scenery ; for the cattle, of which it is not uncommon to see herds of some thousaiuls feed- ing together in a large meadow, are certainly the most remarkable in the world ; for they are all of them milk- white, except their ears, which are generally black. And though there are no inhabitants here, yet the cla- mour and frequent parading of domestic poultry, which range the woods in great numbers, perpetually excite the ideas of the neighbourhood of farms and villages, and greatly contribute to the cheerfulness and beauty Dosci'iption ot the island 01 Tinian. of the place. >j * * Walter, p. 30'J. After tJie lapse of nearly u century, a memo- rial of Anson's sojourn at Tinian has been lately broujj;l)t to light. By the Nautical Mag'azine for July WM (vol. iii. p. 429), it appears that " a whaler lately, on woityhing her anchor at the i.sland of Tinian, hooked np the anchor of the Centurion of 64 j^uns, which was lost by that ship in the year 1742, wiien Commodore Anson touched there to refnvsh his crew. It was comparatively little cor- roded, having on a thick coat of ru.st; the wooiien stock was com- Jileteiv rotted oil." KIGIITLENTII CENTURY TO GEOIIGE III. ICl At this plensiint island Anson remained until the 21st chap. v. of October, when, the health of his crew having been ~" restored and the vessel supplied with fresh provisions, Mncnoin he set sail for Macao in China, where he arrived on tho '^'""'^ 12th of November. The live months which he passed here were employed in refitting his shattered ship and still farther confirming the health of his men. He added also to their number some Lascars and Dutch, and was once more in a condition to resume hostilities. On leaving Macao, he gave out that he was bound Dcsipns of for Batavia, on his homeward voyage for England ; but '^"^""• his real design w'as very different. From the sailing ot the Manilla galleon of the previous year liaving been prevented by his appearance off Acapulco, he calculated that this season there would be two ; and he resolved to cruise off the island of Sanial, in the hope of intercept- ing so rich a prize. This flesign he had entertained ever since he left the coast of Mexico, but had prudently abstained from revealing it. When his ship, however, was once fairly at sea, he summoned the whole crew on deck, and informed them of his intentions. In allusion to some absurd fables wliieh prevailed regarding tho strength of the Manilla ships, and their being impene- trable to cannon-shot, he said he trusted there was none present so weak as to believe , uch a ridiculous fiction ; " for his own part, he did assure tlu in upon his word, that whenever he met with them, he would fight them so near, that they should find his bullets, instead of be- ing stopped by one of their sides, should go through them both."* The station on which Anson had determined to cruise station was the Cape Espiritu Santo, part of the island of Samal, ""fiy crui/a"" and he arrived there on the 20th of May. After a month spent in the greatest impatience and anxiety, a general joy was diffused among the crew by the sight of a sail at sunrise of the 20th June. They instantly (stood tow^ards it, and by mid-day were within a league's Walter, [>. 371. if;2 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE CHAP. V. Fight witli a SfmniHh galleon. Disorder anionj: t!io Spanish crew. iTrmenso booty obtained. Iloweward voyage. distance, — the galleon, to their surprise, continuing in her course, and bearing down upon them. Tlie fight was commenced by Anson, who, in order to embarrass the Spaniards, whom he observed busy in clearing their decks, gave directions to fire, though his previous ordei-s had been not to engage till within pistol-shot. Immedi- ately after he took up an advantageous position, by which he was able to traverse the most of his guns on the enemy, who could only bring part of theirs to bear. At the commencement of the battle, part of the netting and mats of the galleon took fire ; but, upon being ex- tinguished, the fight continued with unabated deter mination. Symptoms of disorder, however, were soon observed on board the merchantman ; their general, " who was the life of the action," was disabled, and the men could hardly be prevailed on to remain at their posts. Their last effort was marked by the discharge of five or six guns with more skill than usual ; when, as a signal that the contest was abandoned, the standard of Spain was struck from the mast-head, — the ship's colours having been burned in the engagement. The treasure in specie found on board the prize has been estimated at upwards of £300,000 sterling. Anson at the siime time learned that the other had set sail much earlier than usual, and was most probably moored in the port of Manilla long before he had reached Samal. As notiiing was now to be gained by remaining among the Philippines, he at once set sail for the river of Canton, where he arrived about the middle of July, and remained until the beginning of December. Tlie homeward passage was not attended with any remark- able event, and on the 15th June 1744, after an absence of three years and nine months, the Centurion anchored at Spithead. General joy was diffused through the nation by the return of the expedition, diminished though it was both in men and ships ; and the treasure tnken from the galleon was carried through the streets to the Tower in thirty-two waggons, in the same man ner as the silver taken hy Blake. EIGIITEEiNTII CENTUV<Y TO CfEOROE III. 1()3 Catitps of the suflfcrins: endured. The distress which was experienced on boiird this chap, v, squadron is to be ascribed solely to tlv^ ill-judged measures which were adopted in its equipment ; while the unflinching perseverance and courage displayed by the seamen, and the intrepidity and prudence of tlie commander, are worthy of a place in the brightest page of the naval annals of our countrv.* The disastrous fate of the Wager, one of the ships Fatcofthe which put to sea under Lord Anson, has been already >c^f (>' the alluded to. In addition to the sufferings endured by the rest of the ileet in their stormy passage round Cape ilorn, her crew were dispirited by evil omens and superstitious fears. Tlie captain who (commanded them when they left England died ere they reached tlie Straits of Le Maire, and it was currently rumoured, both among officers and seamen, that shortly beiore his death he had predicted, " that this voyage, which both officers suiHrstitiPiw and sailors had enijagcd in with so much cheerfulness i^.i ;"i;iiea- 'a"o and alacrity, would prove, in the end, very far from their expectations, notwitlistanding the vast treasure they imagined to gain by it ; that it would end in poverty, verni'n, famine, death, and destruction." -|- These gloomy forebodings appear to have deeply im- pressed all on board, more especially as the defective equipment of the vessel rendered their fulfilment too • A curious illustration of the Iii;rh o|)inion entertained of the conduct of Anson's expcditioti will he found in the " Jonrual of » Cruise mude to the Pacific Ocean, hy Ca|)tain David I'orter, in the United States frigate Essex, in the Years 1J512, l»i;*), and UU4. 2 vols 8vo. Philadelphia, l!ll.")." Ci ptain I'orter informs us, tliat the fame of Anson served only to " rouse his amhitioii," and as an incentive "to make the name of the Essex as well known in the Pacific Ocean as that of tlu> Centurion;" and he {fives it as his opinion, that "the voyage of tlw; Essex oui^lit not to vield the pahn to those of Anson and C<H)k." The gallant ciptaln, fiis vi-ssel, and all her prizes but one, were captured hy a British frijcate of inferiur force; yet he cannot refrain from summing up his fancied tiiumpli over Anson by the reproacli that "he had no trophies of his success to exhibit!" ' 'f A Vo3'aife to the South Seas, in the Years 1740-1. By Jolin nulkelj', ann John Cummins, late {junner and carpenter of the W'a^er. Second edition. Loudon, 1757» p- 5. St ns. ^ Ml 11 <n ) i i ? li 1 1 ! : T3BBe" mm ■n \ 11)4 FROM Tilli liKtilNNING OF THE CTTAl*. V. The Wa.rer Kciiamted from tlie equMdron. 1) iven on blioi'O. SulTerinKS ol the slr.p- vrecked crew. probable. She was separated from the squadron in the end of April ; upon which Captain Cheap, in obedience to his orders, immediately proceeded to search for the aj)i)ointed rendezvous, — the Isle of Socorro. On the 14th of May, it was discovered that the vessel was driving right on shore, and though her course was instantly altered and every precaution used, the next morning at daybreak she struck on a hidden rock, and grounded between two small islands about a gunshot from the beach. The scene which ensued was of the most revolting nature, and the description which has been left of it by the Honourable John Byron, then a midshipman on boai'd, is perhaps little interior in real iiorror and sublimity to the most imaginative concep- tions of his noble grandson.* The ship held together for a considerable period, and the whole crew might have got to the land in safety, had not many, in the phrensy of despair and intoxication, obstinately refused to quit her. Among the miserable beings who reached the shore heart-burnings and dissensions speedily appeared ; and the history of their abode on this desolate coast is one wearisome succession of insubordination, discord, and crime. Afier five months thus consumed, during which, out of about 140-|- wha were shipwrecked, no fewer * Narrative of the Hon. John Byron, bein^ an Arcount of the Shipwreck of the Waiter, and the subsequent Adventures of her Crew. Written bj' Himself. — The editor of the late edition of By- ron's works, in tracing the poet's imitations, appears to have over- looked a passage in tlie Narrative which may iiave suj^g-ested the lines — " Then shriek'd (he timid, and stood still the brave, — Then some leap'd overboard with dreadful yell, As eager to anticipate their grave.'" Don Juan, canto ii. st. 52. The following' sentence occurs in Commodore Byron's Narrative : — "So terrible was the scene of foaminjj breakers around us, that one of the bravest men we had could not lielp expressinjr his dismay at it, saying it was too shocking a sight to bear, and would have thrown himself over the rails of the quarter-deck into the sea had he not been prevented." — Second edition, p. 12. + Thei<e numbers arc stated as the nearest approximation to the t EIGUIEENTU CENTUIIY TO GEORGE III. IGJ than fifty died, the long-boat was at last converted into a schooner ; and on board of her and the ship's cut- ter, seventy-one of the survivors departed, in order to proceed to Brazil by the Straits of Magellan. Thirty survived to reach Ilio Grande, about the end of January 1742 ; nineteen were abandoned to their fate on differ- ent parts of the coast, only three of whom survived to reach Europe ; and twenty- two perished, chiefly through hunger and fatigue. Among the twenty who remained on the coast where the Wager was wrecked was the captain, who had been made prisoner by part of his crew, and was left there at his own desire. Cheap and his unfortunate companions determined to proceed north- wards in the barge and yawl, which had been left to them. The hardships they experienced made frightful havoc among their little band ; only six of whom, after a series of almost unparalleled sufferings, arrived at the island of Chiloe.* The melancholy fate of the Wager led to an import- ant alteration in the laws of our naval service. Much of the crime and misery was justly atUibuieU to the circumstance that the pay of a ship's (rompany ceased immediately upon her wreck ; and a rule was in conse- quence established " that, in future, every person enter- ing into the service of his majesty's navy should be truth which can be made. The tlitlerent iiarratii cs ji^ive very con- tradictory accounts of the numbers. Burney ((Jiiron. Hist. Dis. CUV., vol. V. p. 91) makes tlie number on board at tlie date of the sliijivvreck 130, and states (vol. v. p. 101) that i.t 24th June forty- five had died and seven deserted, which reduces the whole at tiiat time to seventy-eight. Yet afterwards (vol. v. p. lOti), he states that in October the number reniaininj^, inciudiMg' tiie seven desert- ers, was ninety-two. Bulkely makes the number shipwrecked 152. Byion rates them at 145. * Captain King, in the course of the surve}' which he made of the southern extremity of the American continent in the years 11)26-7-^5-9-30, discovered, near the west end of the easternmost of the Guaineco Islands, the beam of a vessel, wiiich there is riivson to believe was a relic of tlie unfortunate Wager. From this circum- stance, he bestowed upon the island the name of that ship. — iTourn^l of the Royal Geogniphical Society, vol. i. p. 159. CHAP. V. Attempt to e>ciiiie in the lonK-boatoud cutter. Proceed I nga of Captain Chcup. Altorution in the nuval laws. 166 FROM THE BEGINNING, &c. CHAP. V held attached to that service, and be entitled to the pay, maintenance, or emoluments belonging to his station, until such time as he should be regularly discharged by an order of the Admiralty or of his superior officer." * Retrulai discharce required. • Biirncy, Cliron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii. pp. 127, 12H. We liave now to take leave of this va!ual)le and iinpurtant work, and cannot do so without an acknowledj^mont of the ^reat assistance which it has aft'oided us. CIKCLMNAVIGATIONS OF DYUON, Ac. 167 CHAPTER VI. Circumnavigations of Bi/ron^ Wallis^ and Carteret. Voyn^e of Byron — Its Ohjocts — Vain Search for Popys' Island — Discovery of tlie Islands of Disappointment, Kinjj Georf^e, Princo of Wall's, Danj^er, and Duke of York — Circumnavigations «)f Wallis and Carteret — Their Separation — Wallis discovers the Islands of Whitsunday, Queen Charlotte, Ejrniont, Cumberland, and Osnabur^ — Arrives at Otaheite — Transactions there — Sails for Tinian — Carteret discovers Pitcairn's Island — Santa Cruz or Queen Charlotte's Islands — The Solomons — St Georj^e's Channel and New Ireland — New Hanover — Arrives at Spithead. England had hitherto held only a secondary place in chap. vi. the annals of maritime enterprise. Spain and Portugal, Kevive7i which first occupied the field, had achieved the great spirit o; discoveries of the American continent, the Pacific Ocean, KngiaiuU^ '" and the passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope. At the end of the sixteenth century, the empire of the deep passed to HoU.nnd. After a short and brilliant career, the spirit of adventure began to languish, and continued nearly 100 years almost entirely dormant, when it again broke forth in Britain with a strength and lustre which have procured for our country, as the liberal promoter of geographical science, an equal, if not superior rank to any nation of ancient or of modern times. We have now arrived at the reign of George III., — a neicn of period which will ever be memorable for the value and "'^'-^'^ ^^ extent of its discoveries, effected, as has been justly re- marked, " not with a view to the acquisition of treasure or the extent of dominion, but the improveuient of 1^ I 1GB CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP 1 < CiiAP. VI. commerce and tlie increase and diffusion of knowledge." „ — The love of science, and the ecosraphical learning which tastes and nc- the young monarch lumselt possessed, secured a favour- qniemciits f^],!^ hearing to every undertaking for exploring new "*'" lands ; and the design which for this purpose he had formed immediately after his accession, he proceeded to put in execution so soon as the peace of 17G3 left his mind free from tiie cares of war. The views which were entertained in the i.quipment of his first expedi- tion are briefly expressed in the instructions delivered to the commodore, — a document which deserves to be Libcrnl views Quoted for its elevated sentiments : " When-ai nothing enteitainea. can redound more to the honour of this nation, as a maritime power, to the dignity of the crown of Great Britain, and to the advancement of the trade and navi- gation thcivof, than to make discoveries of countries hitherto unknown ; 1 whereas there is reason to be- lieve that lands and islands of great extent, hitherto un- visited by any European power, may be found in the Atlantic Ocean, between the Cape of Good Hope and tlie Magellanic Streight, within the latitudes convenient for navigation, and in climates adapted to the produce of commodities useful in commerce ; and whereas his majesty's islands called Pepys* Island and Falkland's Islands, lying within the said tract, notwithstanding their having been first discovered and visited by British navigators, have never yet been so sufficiently surveyed, as tliat an accurate judgment may be formed of their coasts and product ; his majesty, taking the premises into consideration, and conceiving no conjuncture so proper for an enterprise of this nature as a time of profound peace, which his kingdoms at present happily enjoy, has thought fit that it sliould now be under- taken."* Pepys' nnd Fiiiklvimrs Islands. • An Account of the Vov ijj^es inidei taken by the Order of his present Majesty for makinjr Discoveries in the Southern Hemi- spliere. Drawn np from tlie Journals of the Commanders, and from the Papers of Josepli Banks, Escj. By John Ilawkesworth, LL.D. •in M BYRON, WALLIS, AND CAUTICKKT. It'I}) These instructions wore dated the 17th of Juno 1704, rii\r VI. and on the 3d of July the snuadron sailctl froni I'ly- ,. "."" •II' I • 1111 S j'lnilioii mouth. It consisted or two ships, — the Dolphin oi fi t.i u>v twenty-four puns, n^.anned by 150 men and forty-one ''''"^"^'"i- officers ; and the Tamar, carrying sixteen guns, with a crew of ninety seamen and twenty-six officers. 'J'ho first of these vessels was sheathed with copper, the better to prepare her for the voyage, and is said to have been the first ship so furnished in the British navy. The command of the expedition was intrusted to the Cm^nK, ijio Honourable John Byron, whose sufferings, when a '•}"'"• midshipman on board of the Wager, liave been alrea ly alluded to. From that disastrous enterprise he returned to his native country at the age of twenty-two, and having gone through the various steps of promotion, had now attained the rank of |)ost-captain. The greatest secrecy was preserved as to the precise object in view ; nroat and so far was this carried, tliat the seamen were J'l'jlj'ii'j'tjinca. engaged to sail for the East Indies. Tlu>y were not undeceived as to their real destination until the 22d of October, when, after leaving Kio Janeiro, they were called on deck and informed that they were bound on a voyage of discovery, in consequence of whieh they were all to be allowed double pay, Tiiis intelligence was received with the greatest joy imaginable, and their course was shaped towards the coast of Patagonia. They arrived at Port Desire on the 21st of November, an<l re- mained there until the 5th of the next month, when, London, 177IJ' 'i vols 4to. Gpncral Introduction, pp. i. ii. Tliis vork is the chief anthoiity (or the three voyaj^f-es narrated in tlie present cliapter. Its pubhcation was fatal to the author's char- acter. The danji^erons tendency of iiis views on lehj^ion, tlie fi^ra- tiiitons lubricity of liis descriptions, and his j^ross and slovenly in- accuracy, at once excited a storm of popular indij^nation, in vvi.ich perished all tlie honour and reputation j^ained hy his previous vviil- iiif^s. He was ambitious to make his hook " •'noiher Anson'.s Voyage ;" but he lias imitated that lively and spirited nan alive iu no respect but in inattention to the strictness of truth. Hewasen- ffaged to undertake (he work by Lord Sandwich, the fir.st lord of the Admiralty, and his services were remunerated by the munifict-iit sumofA'GOOO. 1 M i TT 170 CIRCUMNAViaATIONS OP I/>ok out for the i-liiii(la of SibaliUlu CHAP. VI. liavinpf conn)letc(l tlieir supplies, they sailed in search of pii'for 1^'^'Py^' Islt'ntlj — one of the chief objects set forth in their r.pys' instructions. The land, to which this name was given Iitiaud. Ijj honour of the celebrated Secretary Pepys, was sup- posed to have been discovered, as has been already stated, in 1G04, by the Buccaneers under Cook, in the latitude of forty-seven degrees and forty nunutes.* After cruis- ing in search of it six days, Byron, being now certain that no such land existed in the situation laid down by the editor of Cowley's Journal, determined again to re- turn to the American continent, keeping a look-out for the islands of Sibald do Weert, which, by all the charts he had on board, could not be far from his track. t The hopes which seem to have been cherished of finding in these regions a mild climate were now dissipated, and it was at,M et'd by all, that, except in the length of the day, there was no difference between the height of summer hove and the diptli of winter in England. After a storm, which, the commodore declares, surpassed any ho experif>nced in weathering Cape Horn with Anson, he arrived at the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, where he anchored in the vicinity of Cape de las Virgenes. A number of horsemen were perceived riding back- wards and forwards on the coast opposite the ship, and waving something of a white colour, as if inviting the voyagers to land. Two boats were accordingly maimi d, and as they drew near the shore, they observed about 500 peoj)le, the greater part of whom were on horse- back, waiting their approach, still making signals and hallooing with great vociferation. No weapons were seen among the'u ; but Byron, notwithstanding, con- sidered it prude'.it to intimate by signs that they should retire to ^^ome distance, — a request with which they instantly complied. As soon as he landed, he drew up the boats' crews on the beach, and ha vuig given orders that none of them should leave their ranks until he called or beckoned on them to do so, he advanced alone TTorsemcn at Ciipe (lelus Vii'gcnci * See ubi)ve, p. 130. f Hawkeswortlis Coll , vol. i. p. 25. BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 171 luitivcs. towards the savages. These continuing to retreat as he cilAP. VI. approached, he made signs that one of them should i^.^j!^^ come near, when an individual from among their leaders with the walked towards him. " This chief," says he, ** was of n '"*"y^'*' gigantic stature, and seemed to realize the tales of mon- sters in a human shape ; he had the skin of some wild hcast thrown over his shoulders, as a Scotch Highlander wears his plaid, and was. painted so as to make the most hideous appearance I ever hcheld ; round one eye was a large circle of white, a circle of black surrounded the other, and the rest of his face was streaked with paint of different colours. I did not measure him, but if I may judge of h.'s height by the proportion of his sta- ture to my own, it could not be much less than seven feet."* With "this frightful colossus," us the com- (-.ip^n^jp modore terms him, he walked towards the natives, who, nj/ooj tho at his request intimated by signs, sat down, when he presented them with beads, ribands, and other trinkets, — all which they received with becoming composure. He describes the whole of them as " enormous goblins," and adds, that " few of the men were less than the chief who had come forward to meet me." His lieutenant, T\Ir Gumming, " though six feet two inches high, became at once a pigmy among giants; for these peo]»le may indeed more properly be called giants than tall men." Another account of the voyage, professing to be written by an officer of the Dolphin,t says of these savages, such was their extraordinary size, that when sitting they were almost as high as the commodore when standing ; and adds, that Byron, though he measured fully six feet, " and stood on tiptoe, co:ild but just reach the crown of one of the Indians' heads, who was not by far the tallest among them." — " The women," it is said, " seemed Appearanco to be from sevoii and a half to eight feet high ; but the '^l^^lj^^ m n were for the most part about nine feet in height, * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i. p. 21J. •f" A Voyage round tlie World iii liis Majesty's Ship the Dolphin, roiiimandecl by the IIonoiiral)le Commodore Byron. Jiy an Officer on board the said Ship. London, 17*»7. P. 45-53. i T I ■?i \ ii Vf 172 CllJCTMNAVIGATIONS OP I ^ !'. ' -i of the aaiT'tivG Cimiiiuiig'3 account. i! 1 CHAP. VI. and some Tnon*." The stature of Lieutenant Gumming Probable seems to have recomraeixdcJ him to the favour of these exiifrgeiation savages, some of whom, we are told, " patted him on th? shoulder ; hut their hands fell with such force that it affected his whole frame." That these statements much exaggerate the size of the people on the IMagel- laric Straits there con he little doubt, while it is equally certain, on the other hand, that the^ ire not without some foundation.* Byron's own statement makes them less than seven feet, and even this he docs not give as the result of actual measurement, but as the conclusion he cnme to from comparing his own figure with that of the chief. Making allowance for the uncertainty at- tending such a mode of computation, there seems to be no ground for questioning the veracity of the commo- dore, though the stories in the anonymous account aro evidently fabulous. Lieutenant Gumming, who acts so prominent a part in these relations, when afterwards questioned on the subject, evinced some reluctance to enter on the discussion ; " 1/ut at length it was i)artly gathered and partly extorted from him, that had the occurrence taken place any where else than at Patagonia, they should have set them down as coed sturdy savage:;, and thought no farther about tl'ein."t • See Lives and Voyn^reR of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier, p. 101, note. Mr Weddel ( Voya>.;e towards iJieSonth Pole, in tlie Years ir)22-24, London, lH2o) thinks " tliat tliose with whom Commodore Byron communicated wcreprohaMy chiefs; l)ntit is more than pro- bahle tliat tiiis tribe, of wiiatever size, were not inhabitants of the shore, hnt of the interior, and from t!ie country farther to tlie nortli- wanl., and of course seldom, perhaps never, on the shores of the Straits when any ve'-sels touched tliere, since that time." He adds, that more northern Pj. la^onians bad been seen by his officers, " who descrilK'd tliem to be generally about gix feet bi<jh, well proportioned, and appearin^^ upon tlie whole above the ordinary size." - P. 20^5. -|- T!<is anecdote appears in a Memoir of the Honourable John Byron, prefixed to an edition of his Narrative published at Kdin- burjrh in 1H12 by .John Ballantyne & Co. Mr Cnmniin^'s statement was made to the late Captain Uoliert Scott of Rosebank, \mcle of Sir Walter Scott. " The writer of this Memoir," it is said, " had the pleasure of Capt.iin Scott's personal acqunintance, from whom he had this anecdote."— P. 36. l._. BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 173 Byron now sailed up the Straits as far as Port Famine, chap. vt. to procure a supply of wood and water before he i^xnriaTifo proceeded to search for the Falkland Islands. It was aiu\ uauty the month of December, the midsummer of these re- ^iu|[r>-. gions, and their wild shores Avere clothed with a luxuriance of vegetation. The voyagers oi)served the ground covered with flowers of various hues, which loaded the air with their fragrance ; innumeralfle clusters of berries glistened en the bushes ; amid the rich grass ftnd pea-blossoms there were seen feeding large flocks of birds of uncommon beauty ; and forests grew by the banks of the rivers, abounding with trees fit to be masts for the largest ships in the British navy. Woods spread up the sides of the hills from the water's edge ; but the mountains farther inland were bl-nik and bare, and their rugged summits, covered with snow, were seen towering high above those nearest the shore. Drift- wood was also found in large quantities. Alter a short stay the vessels completed their stores, and on tiie 4th of January 1765 weighed anchor and steered back through the Strait?. On the 11th, high, craggy, barren rocks were ob- pi^poTeTjr ser;ed, much resembling Statcn Land ; innumerable J'.^,{|'J],n^| quantities of seals and birds were remarked, and many Islands. whales approached the ships, some of tliem of a very great ai;;c. On the 15th, a harbour was discovered, so capacious that the whole navy of England might ride in it ; to which, in honour of the first lord of the Ad- miralty, the name of I\">rt Egmont was given. Byron now beu..me convinced that the islands he bad reached were the Pepys' Island of Cowley, the Ahiiden-land of Hawkins, and the Falklands of later geographers ; and under this last name he took possession of tliem ior the British crown, — a ceremony which, it has hi m remarked, the tenor of his instructions rendered super- fluous. On leaving this group, he stood towards Port Desire, where he met tlie store-ship which had been tlespatciied from England with provisions. He then returned to the Straits, to pass into the South Sea ; . 174 CmCUMNAVIGATIONS OP cnAi». VI. Wfttcriiig pliice sdectccL Dis.nppf.int- ineiU Islands. i ii N<>ccjsity of aoaiuloniiig tile islttiKls. which, however, he did not reacli till tlic beginning of April, the passage having occupied seven weeks and two days. With the view of preserving secrecy, the island of Mas-afuera had been selected as a watering-place, in preference to that of Juan Fernandez ; but a heavy surf which broke on its rocky shore prevented hini from ol)tnining a full supply. Hence Byron steered nearly due north, until he attained the latitude of 20° 40', when he changed his course to the westward, in order to bear down upon Davis' Land or Easter Island ; hut, finding his progress slow, he soiled to the north- west, in order to profit by tiie trade-wind. On the morning of the 7th of June, he was in the latitude of 14° 5' south, and longitude 144° 68' west, when he dis- covered two islands, to the smaller of which he directed his prow. As he drew near, it presented the most heautiful appearance ; tiie sea broke upon a beach of the finest white sand, and the interior was covered with tall trees grouped into dtlightful groves. Many of the natives, armed with sp >ars, appeared on the strand wIk ^ they lighted several fires, apparently as signals; for similar tokens instantly blazed upon ' le other island. A boat was despatched to search for anchorage, but returned witl;out having found any. 'J'he scurvy had by this time made dreadful havoc among the crews, and such of the sick as were r^blb to crawl on deck "stood gazing at this little j/aradiso, which nature had forbidden them to enter;' where they saw cocoa-nuts hanging from the trees in laryo clusters, the shore strewed with the sliells of turtle, while the wind wafted to them the fragrance of the finest fruits. As no anchoring-ground was Ibuml near the other island, the cajitain was compelled to quit these inaccessible shores, on which he bestowed the name of Disappointment. The natives were of a deep copper- colour, well prop(>rtioned in their limbs, ami oi" great activity and vigour. On tl'ic evening of the Otb, land was again descried, m EYRON, WALLTS, AND CARTER FT. i7r) and, on more minute examination, Avas ascertained to chap. VL eon-ist of two islands, which, in honour of his majt"itv, „. — , . * Kin "5 were called King Geor^jj'o's. Wliile the boats sailed (icurye's along the coast of one of them in search of anchorage, ^'^i*"^'*- the hostile intentions of the natives were so clearly manifested that it was deemed necessary to fire. 'I' wo or throe of them were slain ; one of whom, after being pierced by three balls, seized a large stone, and died in the act of throwing it against his eneniv. No anelioragc was discovered ; but it was neverthele.>*s thought expedient to land part of the crews, in order LniKHnjr ff to procure a supply of cocoa-nuts and scurvy-grass. '""' ^'* '''° CIVWS. As the people iiad fled, their dvellings were totally deserted, except by their <logs, which kept up an inets- sant howling as long as the seamen continued on sliore. Ju the neighbourhood of tlie huts, beneath the ti)ick shade of lofty trees, were observed stone buildings, which, from their description, seem to have somewhat resembled the cromlechs of the ancient Britons?, and were conjectured to be burying-places. When th^' boats drew near to the shore of the other island, an old (^ve^ti'j'e,, ,,f• man of a veuerableappearance, and wearing a long white tin; isiujiiicit beard, acc(>mpanjcd by a youth, came forward from the crowd of savages, lie ajipeaved to bi; a chief, and in one hand held the green i;raiieh of a tree, wliile with tl)e other he prosed his beard to his bosom, and in this attitude c(>nunenced a long oration, the periods of which had a musical cadence by no means disagreeable. During this speech the people in the boats threw him several presents, Init these he would not suffer to be touched until lie had finished his harangue ; upon whieli ad- vancing into the ^^ater, he threw the green branch to the seamc'i, and then picked up their gifts. Encouraged by these friendly signs, one of the midshipmen swaux through tlie surf to the shore, an<l several of tlie natives came otl' to thn boats, bringing with them cocoa-nuts suVpIks. and fresh-water. Tins island lies in latitude 14' 41', and longitude 149^' IT/. On (juitting it Byron stood to the westward, and in m t i; I ?Tr 176 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OF ii' \ 'is' if !f Si \ A rvince of \Viiie3' Oianpe of course. CHAi\ VI. tlie afternoon of the next day discovered a small island, of a green and pleasant appearance, but surrounded hy many rocks and i.slets, which occasioned dreadful hreakerg. It appearing, however, to be inluabited, was named after the i*rince of Wales ; and is now believed to be the same with the Fly Island of Schouten and Le Malre.* While in this vicinity the commodore became impressed Avith tiie opinion that land existed not far to the south, as well from tlie discontinuance of a heavy swell which had prevailed for some time, as from the vast ilocks of birds which, as evening closed in, always took tbcir iiight in that direction. The un- healtliy state of his crew, however, prevented him from going in search of it ; and the discovery of Otaheite and the Society Isles was accordingly reserved for the more auspicious fortuiie of Waliis. Byron's course was now directed north-westwards ; and, after liaving sailed more than (300 leagues, he observed, on the 21st of June, a cluster probably identical witli the San Bernardo of Mcndana,t winch, from the shoals and stormy sea that forbade approach to tliera, he denominated the Islands of Danger. Three days later, while pursuing his course in a westerly direction, he perceived another i^^land, to which he gave the name of the Duke of York ; and on the 2d of July, in latitude 1'^ 18' south, longitude 17«3'^ 46' east, he approached one, low and flat, but well covered with wood. About 1000 natives appeared on the beach, and more than sixt^v canoes pulled off from the shore, and ranged themsc^lves round the ships. The savages were tall and well formed ; their complexion a bright copper colour ; their hair long and black, in some tied up beliind in a great bunch, in, others arranged into three knots ; their features good, and marked by an expression of cheerful intrepidity. Tliey wei'c perfectly naked, weaving no- thing on their persons but some ornameiits of shells ai tiieir necks, wrists, and waists. One, who appeared to t Ibid. 11. 80. Intercourse villi ihe niuivc& w ! i BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTKRi:!. 177 he a chief, had «'i string of human tet'th round his body. ciiAP. VI. Their arms consisted of a kind of spear, broad at tlie r. — 1 roco'^dtnp's end, and stuck full of shark's teeth as sharp as lancets, oi om oc liVe One of these savages swam to the ship and ran u]) tiie "'''^^^^' side like a cat, and having stepped over the gunwale sat down on it and burst into a violent fit of laughter, then started up and ran all over tlie ship, attempting to tteal every thing that came in his way. A jacket and trousers were put upon him, and his gestures, which were like tliose " of -a monkey )iewly dressed," juo- duced much merriment among the sean)en ; and, after playing a thousand antic tricks, he leaped overboard, and swam in his new garments to his canoe. Finding it impossible to procure refreshments for the sick, the ships were obliged to make Siiil from this place, which was named Byron's Island. On the 30th of June, the squadron came in sight of Different Tinian, and on the 31st, ancliored in the very same spot «^^^''"i''"'"3 where Lord Anson formerly lay with the Centurion. The aspect of things was to them, however, very dif- ferent from the high-wrought description of the former voyage. " I am indeed of opinion," says tlie commo- dore, " that this is one of the most unhealthy spots in the world, at least during the season in which we were hare. The rains were violent and almost incessant, and the heat was so great as to threaten us with suffocation. . . . We were incessantly tormented by the flies in the day, and by the musquitoes in the night. The island also swarms with centipedes and scorpions, and a large black ant scarcely inferior to either in the malia- rity of its bite. Besides these thcj'e were venomov.s insects without number, ahogether unknown to us, by which many of us suffei'td so s<'vereiy that we were afraid to lie down in our beds."* Till the period of \th oi'llvrd tliere, not one of tlie crew had dicv ; but Vk lillfl at that island two were lost in a fever ; those oi liiiiuiu • Huwkeswortii's Gill,, ygl, i, p. 118, r i ' u 1^ '! \\ m CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OF Provisions and return home Cnptain Wallis's cxpudltion. t ! 1 i i i i iiii CHAP. vf. afflicted with the scurvy, indeed, recovered ver^r quickly. He stayed nine weeks, when, the health of his crew being re-established and a stock of provisions hiid in, he proceeded to Batavia, where he remained till the 10th of December, at which time he set sail for England. An accident having happened to the Tamar which ren- dered it necessary that she should run down to Antigua to be repaired, the vessels parted company on the 1st of April 1766 ; and on the 7th of May, the Dolphin made the islands of Scilly, after a voyage of something more than two and twenty months. In little more than three months after the return of Commodore Byron, another expedition was sent out to prosecute the same general design of making discoveries in the southern hemisphere. It consisted of the Dol- phin, which was equipped as before, and of the Swallow, a sloop mounting fourteen guns, with a complement of ninety men, besides twenty-four officers. The latter was commanded by Captain Philip Carteret ; while Captain Samuel Wall is, who hoisted his pendant in the Dolphin, was intrusted with the general superintend- ence of the enterprise. The vessels sailed from Ply- mouth on the 22d August 1766, attended by a store- ship which, after landing her cargo at Port Famine, proceeded with a load of drift-wood and young trees for the use of a British colony established that year at Port Egmont in the Falkland Islands. On the 16tli of December, they anchored near Cape do las Virgencs, at the eastern entrance of the Straits of Magellan. Several of the natives were observed riding along the beach abreast of tiie ship, and during the night they made great fires and frequently shouted very loud. In the morning, some boats were manned and stood towards the shore, where, having landed, Wallis distributed several trinkets to the savages, and took an oi)portunity of ascertaining their height by actual measurement. One of them was six feet seven inches ; several reached six feet and a half ; and the average of their stature, S^i-nits of Wugfllan. Intov^ icw vitli tlio iiiitivcs. tarn HUB T BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 179 according to liim, was from five feet ten to six ftet ; c:iap. vi. while Carteret says, " they were in general all from six AnivaTnt feet to six feet five inches."* In the afternoon of the Toit ramiuo. same day they entered the Straits, and on the 26th arrived at Port Famine, where they remained till the middle of January 1/(57 ; the sick heing sent on shore, and tents erected on the hanks of the Sedger River. Their passage thence was so stormy and tedious that they did not reach the western mouth of the Straits till the 11th of April, "after," says the author, "having been for near four months in a dreary region, where we were in almost perpetual danger of shipwreck, and where in the midst of summer the weather was cold, gloomy, and tempestuous."t On the very day that they entered the South Sea the two vessels parted company, and did not again meet. Captain Wallis, who held his course to the north- Sufforines » . ciinnrec! by west, suffered much from the severity of the climate wuUis. and the attacks of the scurvy. At length, on the 8d of June, several gannets were seen, which, along witii the variahlencss of the winds, led to tiie hope that land was not far distant. The next day a turtle swam jiast the ship ; many birds were seen on the 6th ; and on tlie succeeding noon the sight of a low island at the distance of five or six leagues diffused universal ioy on board. As they drew near, a second was descried to i"i"|™" ^^' the north-westward, and two canoes were seen paddling quickly from the one to the other. The shores were examined in vain for an anchorage ; but the boals wh'ch landed procured cocoa-nuts and scurvy-grass : no inhabitants were seen, though some huts and skiffs attested their recent presence. The captain gave it tlie name of Whitsunday Island. He describes it as about * "A Letter from I'hilin Ciirteret, Ivsq., Ctiptain of the Swallow Sloop, to Matliew AIat\', M,J)., Sec. 11. S., on the Inhabitants of the Coast of Pata;;-onia." — Philosopliical Transact ioMs, vol. Ix. p. '20-2(5. Carteret sailed with Commodore Hyron, and expresses his rhai^riii that Captain Wallis m-j^lected to acquire a jj^reater know- le(l_''e of these savages. •f- Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i. u KJ:>. i i •tjit IHO CiKCUMNAVlGATlONS OF "I Queen C;lliUlOtt0'3 Iblund. til 'i CHAP. VI. four miles in length nnd three in breadth ; but a later voyager has reduced its length to a mile and a half, and assigned to it a situation forty miles westward of that mentioned by his predecessor.* He now stood for the other island, and sent out the boats, which sailed along the beach until dark ; but, though they procured some water and cocoa-nuts, they returned to the ship without finding safe ground. Next morning, they were again despateiied with instructions to effect a regular landing ; which they no sooner did than all the inhabitants em- barked, and sailed away to the westward. This island, where Wallis remained two days longer, he named after Queen Charlotte. It is estimated by him to be about six miles long and one broad, and is said to abound in cocoa-nut trees ; but these appear to have been completely eradicated since the time of liis visit.-j- Having directed his course to the westward, on the afternoon of the same day, which was tiie 10th June, he discovered another island, on which he found congre- gated the savages who had fled from Queen Charlotte's, along with some othei-s, amounting in all to about four- score. The men were armed with pikes and firebrands, and advanced before the women and children, making a great noise, and dancing in a strange manner. This island, which seema to have been selected as a place of retreat, for which its inaccessible shores rendered it well adapted. Captain Wallis denominated Egmont, in honour of the earl of that name, the first lord of the Admiralty.^ The next morning, another island was Eflmont laiunds. ^ * Narrative of a Voj'age to tlie Pacific and Beeriti^'s Strait, in the Years lB2r)-2(i-27-2y, to co-operate with the Polar Kxpeditions. Hy Capt. F. W. Beechi-y. 2 vols 8vo. London, llJiil, vol. i. p. 20a. Wallis placed it in latitude 19° ::«' S., longitude 137" 5ti W. Cap- tain Beechey makes its latitude l'J° 2'i' 'M" S., and its iontritude 138° 'M) 4H" W. ■f 1 'lie}', vol. i. p. 207. No cause has been assigned lor this sin;;ul>i ' antje. + Tlu tiiude assigned by Wallis is 19° 20' S., the longitude 131) 30 \\ . ('aptain Beechey's tables give the latitude of the north auii south-\vot,t extremities, ibe former 19° 22' 59" S., the / nVIlON, WALLIS, AND CAUTERFT. m cliiinis to discovery. seen, rcsemblinc: the one just described in all respects chap. vr. except in breadth ; but a high sea which broke on its; gioucJ^ r rocky beach rendered landing impossible. Sixteen isluaO. natives were observed, armed like the others. It was called Gloucester ; and later navigators, while they assign to it a different position, bear testimony to the accuracy of his deserij)tion, though its present form and extent arc said to ditFer materially. On the 12th, an island was observed, which was denominated Cumber- land ; while the name of Prince William Henry was bestowed on a small low one descried at a distance on the daybreak of the 13th. The varii ty of longitudes assigned to these places has led succeeding observers to Repeated claim them as new discoveries ; and, exercising the privilege of a first visiter, the French officer Duperrey seems to have conferred on Prince William Henry's the new title of L'Ostange.* On the 17th, land was seen in the north-west : it was high, and covered with cocoa-trees ; but as no anchorage could be found, Wallis, after procuring a few articles of refreshment, pursued his course, bestowing on the country the title of Osnaburg, — a name which has since given place to the native ap- Muitea pellation of Maitea. In about half an hour after, very lofty ground wa.*- P''*?"^^'"-^ discerned to the west-south-west ; but though the ship was immediately steered toward it, owing to adverse weather, she did not reach it that night. The next morning, which broke clear and fair, showed it at the distance of five leagues At eight o'clock, they were close under it, when a thick fog obliged them to lie to, and for a time concealed from them the shores of Ota- heite. At length the mists rolled away, and they saw before them a country of "the most delightful and ro- mantic api)earance that could be imagined ;" along the latter U»°24'2fi", tlio lonptii<le oftlie same spots KW 12 03" W., and U^!)° 14' lU". Captain Beeclicy calls this "tlie sfcniid dis- covery oi" Captain Wallis," vol. i. p. 210, apparently forgettinj^ Queen Charlotte's Island. * Beechey? vol. i. pji. 241), 250. » I ^4 '. i I i 1 i 1 1 ! 8 ih I! ;i 1 i 182 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP CHAP. VI. coast extended fertile plains covered with fruit-trees of BeauTvana v^^'io"^ kinds, and embosomed amonc^ these were seen the ft'i-tlllty of tlie.isluud. a native pro phecy. iii! if illH houses of the natives ; the interior rose into towering "■ mountains crowned with wood, and large rivers were seen falling from the rocks in picturesque cascades. Around the ship, the water was studded with some hundreds of canoes of various sizes, containing about 800 individuals, who sat gazing at her in great astonish- ment, and by turns conversed one with another. Their wonder was excited by other circumstances besides the vast bulk and strange construction of the Fulfilment of Dolphin ; they beheld the fulfilment of a prophecy, which had been handed down to them from remote times, but was of a nature so incredible, that they scarcely expected it would ever come to pass. One of their sages, named Maui, had in an inspired moment foretold, that " in future ages a vaa ama ore, literally, an outriggerless canoe," would come to their shores from a distant land. An outrigger being indispensable to keep their barks upright in the water, they could not believe that a vessel without one could live at sea, until, on looking on the magnificent structure before them, they unanimously declared that the prediction of Maui was fulfilled, and that the fated ship had arrived.* * Polj'ncsian Resoarclies, dining a Residence of nearly Ei^ht Years in the Society and Sandwidi Islands. By William lillis. 2d edition, London, UV.i) . vol. i. p. 'dlYi. Mr Ellis' account of the native tradi- tions reg'arding the arrival of Wallis is hardly reconcileahle with facts. He says, that when the people first saw the ships, they were indnced to siip{)ose them " islands inhahited hy a supernatural order of heinjfs, at whose direction lightnings flashefl, thunders roared, and the de- stroying demon slew with instantaneous but invisible strokes the most daring and valiant of their warriors. But when they afterwards ivent alongside, or ventured on hoard^^ iScc, they discovered them ID be ships, and " were confirmed in this interpretation when theij saw the small boats belonging to the ships emploi/ed in fiussing to and fro between the vesacl and the .shore." — Vol. i. E. 3H4. But in point of fact, the natives came alongside, ventured on oard, and became famili^ir with the boats, before they knew any thing of the " lightning- Hash and thunder-roar," or the deadly effects of fire arms. There are one or two smaller inaccuracies in jMr Ellis' valuable work with regard to the early visiters. He BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. jra After havinj? consulted together for some time, tliey citap. vf. paddled tluir canoes round tlic vessel, mnkinc: various f,.j,.,^ signs of friendship, and a person, hohUng in his hand <i niiviiiKi's of Ijranch of the plantain-tree, spoke ahout fifteen minutes, "'" "''"v'-'*- and concluded by throwing the hougli into the sea. Soon after, one was prevailed on to come on l)oard, hut would not accept the presents offered to him until some of liis companions, after " much talk," threw a few similar twigs on the deck. Several of tlie others soon hnitated his example. One of them was attacked hy Ainrmata a goat, which butted at him, and, on turning hastily s^at round, the appearance of an animal so new to him, raised on its hind legs preparing to repeat the blow, struck him with such terror that he instantly leapt into the water, and was followed by all his countrymen. In a brief space, however, they again ventured on deck, and were presented with trinkets and nails ; their visit being terminated by one of them snatching a new laced liat from a midshipman's head, and springing with his plunder over the ship's side. No anchorage being found here, Wallis stood along iTn<;tiic pro- the shore, the boats keeping close to the land to sound. the"uativt6 In the afternoon, they reached a large bay, where a great number of canoes came around them ; and the captain, suspecting their hostile intentions, made a sig- nal for his people to join, while, to intimidate tlie savages, he fired a nine-pounder over their heads. Though startled by the report, they endeavoured to cut off the boats, and made an attack with ytoncs, which wounded several seamen, when a musket was fired at seems almost to have forj^otton that Wallis was expressly sent out to prosecute tlie discovery of new lands; for lie attrii)utes tlie arrival at Otalieite to "accident, so far as Ca|)tain Wallis was concerned." — Vol. ii. p. 1. The result of a concerted expedition can scarcely be called " accident ;" nor can we see the distinction on which the discoveries of Cook are attributed to a desire for "the advancement of knowledge," and those of Wallis ascribed to chance. The discovery of Sanitaria by Quiros occurred in the beginning of the seventeenth, not " towurds the end of the sixteenth century," as stated by Mr Ellis, vol. i. p. 6. H- m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) &^ ..V K<^ 4i^ :/. V i.O 1.1 121 1^ ja liJ 12.2 ^ lift Its u 140 IL25 iU Photographic _Sdences Corporation ^ V « N? <^ 2^ ' .'iST MAIN STRUT WiBSTER,N.Y. 145«0 (716) 872-4503 ;\ ■ > *f'^ 184 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP Alarm at fiic-arms. Jinchorage of the Dolpliin. I CHAP. VI. the man who had commenced the assault. Tlie shot pierced his shoulder, and as soon as the wound was perceived by his companions, they leapt into the sea ; while the others paddled away in great terror and con- fusion. Not long after, a canoe came off to the ship, and one of the natives having spoken about five minutes, threw a branch of the plantain-tree on board, — a token of peace which the English accepted, and gave him some trinkets, with wiiich he departed apparently well pleaiied. Next morning, the search for anchoring-ground was renewed, and continued during all that day ; in the evening, the Dolphin lay to abreast of a fine river, and a great number of lights were observed along the shore throughout the night. At dawn, anchorage was ob- tained ; and as soon as the vessel was secured, the boats were sent out to examine the coast and seek for a watering-place. When they approached the land, the canoes which were engaged in traffic with the crew sailed after them, and three of the largest ran at the cutter and staved in her quarter, while the islanders made themselves ready to board her. The party fired, and two of the natives fell into the sea ; on which the naUves. attack was instantly abandoned. Their companions pulled the men who had fallen overboard from the water and set them on their feet ; finding they could not stand, it was tried if they could sit upright ; one of them, who was only wounded, was able when sujiported to retain this posture ; but the other, who was dead, they laid in the bottom of the canoe. Notwithstanding this affray, some of them speedily resumed their traffic, and an amicable intercourse was maintained during the time the Dolphin lay there. The men despatched to procure water, found the beach lined with inhabitants, who endeavoured to entice them on shore by every ex- pedient they could devise ; but, unwilling to trust those whose hostile dispositions they had so lately experienced, landing was postponed until the ship should be moored so as to cover them with her guns. At daybreak on the 28d June, while standing off to Renewed I i;i BYIION, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 185 effect this object, a bay six or eight miles to leeward chap, vi was discover <fd from the mast-head, and Wallis imme- Danfferous d lately bore away for it. As he stood in to this harbour, lorai rec;.. the Dolphin suddenly struck on a coral reef; but after beating against it about an hour, a fresh breeze springing up, slie swung off, and shortly after came to an anchor within it. The next morning they procc eded to wnrp the ship fartliet in, when a great nun ber of people came off and engaged in traffic, by which hogs, fowls. Traffic with and fruit, were exchanged for knives, nails, and beads. ""^ "**'"«* As the day advanced, the canoes gradually increased ; and the captain observed with some anxiety the appear- ance of those w hich last arrived. They were double, and of a very large size, containing ittle else but round pebble- stones, and each was manned by twelve or fifteen stout fellows. From these circumstances, it was judged prudent to keep one of i^>e watches constantly under arms, while the rest of the crew were engaged in warp- nig the shipt Meanwhile more of the small craft continued to arrive ; although those which now moved from tbe shore presented any tiling? but a warlike aspect. They were filled with females, who tried every art to attract the attention of the sailors: while the double canoes were closing round the Dolphin, some of the savages on board of them sung m a hoarse voice, others sounded the cjnch, and a third party played on an instrument rf.semblmg a flute. One, who sat on a Ho<<tiic <i<-- ^^ ' »> 1^1 It ar I'll run canopy fixed on his small boat, now came alongside and handed up a bunch of red and yellow feathers. Wallis received this with expressions of friendship, and was preparing to present the dor or with some trinkets in return, when the latter, having paddli-d off to a little distance, threw into the air n br«\nch of a cocoa-nut-tree. At this signal a univei'sal sloiit burst from the islanders ; all theii canoes at once m( ved towards the man-of-war ; and a shower of stones ^v-m poured into her from all directions. The watch were instantly ordered to fire and t'Vo of the qimrter-deck swivels loaded with small hhot were discharged neai-ly at the same time. The iiioustiuduuc i ^i m M f i' if 111 ffl;i I86 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP native TesselSi Violent assault on the ^ip. CHAP. VI. natives appeared to be thrown into confusior . but in a FieeroT ^^^ minutes renewed tlie attack. At this time there were about 300 of their vessels round the ship, with at least 2000 men on board ; many thousands were observed crowding the 8hoi*e ; and others were paddling towards the Dolphin in the greatest haste from all sides. The crew having now got to their qiiarters, a fire was opened from the great guns, which soon put to Hight those near the ship, and also checked the embarkation of more warriors from the land. The savages, however, were not dispirited ; the firing having ceased, tiie canoes soon gathered together and lay for some time looking at their antagonist from the distance of about a quarter of a mile. Suddenly they were observed to hoist white streamers ; they then paddled towards the stern, and began a discharge of stones, each about two pounds in weight, and slung with such force and an aim so true that many of the seamen were woimded. Several canoes, at the same time, were making towards the bow, and among these was one which appeared to have a chief on board. Two cannon were now run out abaft and pointed ut the assailants in that quarter, while others were run forward and fired from the stem. A shot from one of these struck the vessel which contained the supposed leader, and cut it asunder ; which was no sooner perceived than the others dispersed with such haste that in half an hour there was not a single canoe in sight. The people who lined the shore were observed running over the hills in great precipitation, and no farther token of hostility appearing, the English pro- ceed to moor the ship and to sound the bay. About noon of the succeeding day, it was ascertained that the beach afforded good landing in every part ; no canoes were visible, and Lieutenant Furneaux was ordered to go ashore. This was effected without oppo- sition ; and having erected a pole, on which he hoisted a pendant, and turned a turf, he took possession of the country by the name of King George the Third's Island, title which has been superseded by the indigenous Taking pos- session ot the isknd. ! I; BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 187 appellation of Otaheite, or, as it is now sometimes writtcii, Tahiti.* Two old men were discovered on the opposite side of a river which flowed into the bay, and signs having been made that they should come over, one of them complied and advanced towards the lieutenant on his hands and knees. He was presented with some trinkets, and as soon as the boats put off he began to caper round the flag, and threw down some green boughs before it. He was afterwards joined by ten or twelve others, who brought with them two large hogs, which they deposited at the foot of the pole, and, after a pause, began to dance. The quadrupeds were then put on board a canoe, into which the old man accompanied them ; and, coming alongside of the ship, he made a for- mal oration and presented some plantain-leaves, one by one, each accompanied by a few wr i slowly and solemnly spoken. He concluded by v. jring the two hogs, for wliich he would accept nothing in return, but eagerly pointed to tbo land. During the night, innumerable lights were seen along the coast, and the sound of drums, conchse, and other in- struments, was heard ; and, when the morning of the 26th broke, the pendant >vas found to have been carried away. The lieutenant again landed, and while he was engaged in fllling the water-casks, the old man appeared with some fruits and a few fowls. At this time Captain Wallis, who was confined to the ship by ill health, observed through his glass a multitude of the savages * The latter spelling is said by Mr Ellis to approximate more nearly to the native pronunciation; but, from a feeling (which we share with Captain Beechey and others) of '< veneration for the name as it is written in the celebrated Voyages of Cook," we shall adhere to his orthography. The name Tahiti is, besides, in itself objectionable. " By tiie natives," says Mr Ellis, " their isbind in called Ta-hi-ti. The i having the sound of e in their language, it is pronounced as if written in English Ta-he-te." — Vol. i. p. 7. If Otaheite is to be set aside, because not consonant with the native pronun<"iati(>n, why should Tahiti be retained when liable to thu same objection ? Even on Mr Ellis* own showing and principles, Tahiti should in turn give way to Tahete. CHAP. VI. Name ol the new dis- covery. Renewal of friendly de- monstrations The British pendant carried away. I PM m (' ■ i '!'■■■ fA ■, * ■' ) (. li: . V ■ , - lU 188 CIRCUMNAVIOATIONS OP CHAP. VI. Nnmcrous muster of natives. Reassem- bling of the native fleet. Piepprflon of t)ie wliule fleet. i!,i:. Consterna- tion ot tiie natives. coming over a hill at about the distance of a mile ; a great number of canoes were seen making towards the watering-place from behind the two points of the bay ; many thousands of the natives were perceived advancing through the woods in the same direction ; and a large party was discovered creeping behind the bushes close to the caterers. A boat was instantly despatched to warn them of their danger ; but before it reached the shore they had seen the islanders lurking in tlie thicket and had embarked. The bay now exhibited a spectacle of singular interest. The canoes from both sides ad- vanced rapidly towards the same point, and, as they came near, stopped to take on board more warriors and great bags of stones. The margin of the beach was thronged with people all hastening to the river, and a hill which looked down on the harbour was crowded with women and children, who had seated themselves to view the approaching conflict. At length the preparations of the native armament were completed, and the whole flotilla made towards the Dolphin, which immediately opened a destructive fire. The rude armada was almost instantly dispersed ; the canoes on the east side of the bay paddled round the point, and were soon beyond the reach of shot ; while those on the west side were run on shore, and deserted by their crews. The fire was now directed into dif- ferent parts of the wood, and the savages, driven from this shelter, ran up the eminence on which the women and childrtn had taken their position. The hill was thronged with several thousand people, who considered themselves beyond the reach of danger, when, to im- press on them the tremendous power of his artillery, Wallls ordered some of the guns to be fired at this vast multitude. Two of the balls struck the ground near a ti-ee where a great number were sitting in fancied security, and created such a consternation " that in less than two minutes not one of them was to be seen." To complete his victory, he sent the carpenters to destroy BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. ]m ir ' all the canoes which hnd been run aground. More than chap. VI. fifty, some of them sixty feet in length, were demolbh- ed in a few hours. These severe measures at length produced the desiriv' Thcisinnders effect ; the islanders were now completely dispirited. «ii»rir't*;d- and submitted to keep peace with tho:«e strangers, whose terrible superiority made war hopeless. A few hours after the battle, about ten of them issued from the wood bearing green boughs, which they stuck up on the shore, and deposited beside them some hogs, dogs, and bundles of cloth. Thb peace-ofFering was accepted, and returned by a present of hatchets, nails, and some other articles ; and, from this time, a friendly feeling was displayed in all their transactions. The next dav, the 27th June, the sick were landed I^nnf^ing the and a tent erected for their residence. A traffic wa^ commenced for provisions, and continued to be carried on amicably, chiefly through the medium of the old man on behalf of the islanders, and the gunner on the part of the English. Iron was the object which the natives * prized most highly, and for a small portion of it they willingly parted with every thing they had. " To discover what present would nvst gratify them," says Wallis, " I laid down before them a Johannes, a guinea, a crown- piece, a Spanish dollar, a few shillings, some new half- pence, and two large nails, making signs that they should take what they liked best. The nails were first seized Native ralue with great eagerness, and then a few of the halfpence, Imt the silver and gold lay neglected."* No event of importance occurred until the 11th July, when the gunner conducted on board a tall woman, apparently about forty-five years of age, and, says the eaptain, " of a ple.ising countenance and majestic deponment." She visit of the displayed a freedom and ease of carriivge which appeared Queen, to have been formed by habitual command ; while she accepted the presents which were given her with a very good grace. Understanding that the commander had fi' !■ J ii' Hawkeswortirs Coll., vol. i. p. 240. t i ■i 190 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP CHAP. VL Her residence. Visit by Wall is to the Queeu. Attention to the iuvalid& Presents of native cloth. been ill, she made signs inviting him to land. The gun- ner conducted her ashore, and, on his return, reported that her house was spacious, and furnished with many domestics and guards, and that another mansion which she possessed " was enclosed in lattice-work." The next morning, Wallis landed for the first time, and " my princess, or rather queen," says he, ** for such by her authority she appeared to be, soon after came to me." She ordered her attendants to take him, and two of the officers who had been sick, in their arms and carry them to her house ; and when they approached it they were met by numbers of both sexes, whom she pre- sented to the captain as her relations, and taking hold of his hand she made them kiss it.* They were then ushered into the dwelling, which was large and commo- dious, and on the invalids being seated their arms and legs were gently chafed by young girls. During this operation, the surgeon, heated by his walk, took oflF his wig to cool himself ; " a sudden exclamation of one of the Indians who saw it, drew the attention of the rest, and in a moment every eye was fixed upon the prodigy, and every operation was suspended ; the whole assembly stood some time motionless in silent astonishment, which could not have been more strongly expressed if they had discovered that our friend's limbs had been screwed on to the trunk." t When the chafing was finished, their hospitable entertainer ordered bales of cloth to be brought, with which she dressed them after the native fashion. On their departure she accompanied them to the boats ; and Wallis having declined the honour of being again carried, the supposed queen, says he, " took • An engraving of this scene inserted in Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i. p. 242, is entitled " A Representation oF the Surrenderor the Island of Otaheite to Captain Wallis, by the supposed Queen, Obe- rea."— Description of the Cuts, p. xxxvi. It seems difficult to ac- count for the origin of this strange title ; there is certainly nothing even hinted at in the text of such a *' surrender," nor had this ima- ginary queen the power of giving away what was not her own. f Hawkeswortlrs Coll., vol. i. p. 243. «! BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. J91 me by the arm, and whenever we came to a plash of chap. Vt water or dirt, she lifted me over with as little trouble x?ative"fea«t as it would have cost me to have lifted over a child." The next morning a present was sent to her of some hatchets, bill-hooks, and other things, and the gunner, who convoyed them, found her conducting an entertain- ment given to about 1000 people. She distributed the viands to the guests with her own hands, and when this was done, seated herself on a place elevated above the rest, and was fed by two female servants. On the 14th, the same officer observed an old woman S|nguLir on the opposite side of the river weeping bitterly. A woniun. young man who stood by her crossed, and, coming to the Englishman, made a long speech, and laid a plan- tain-bough at his feet. He then repassed the stream to bring over his aged friend and two large hogs. " The woman," says the captain, " looked round upon our people with great attention, fixing her eyes sometimes upon one, and sometimes upon another, and at last burst into tears. The young man who brought her over the river, perceiving the gunnei-'s concern and astonishment, made another speech longer than the first. Still, how- ever, the woman's dirstress was a mystery ; but at h ngth she made him understand that her husband and three of her sons had been killed in the attack on the ship During this explanation she was so affected that at last she sunk down unable to speak, and the two young men, who endeavoured to support her, appeared to be nearly in the same condition ; they were probably two more of her sons, or some very near relations. The gunner did all in his power to sooth and comfort her ; and when she had in some measure recovered her recol- lection, she ordered the two hogs to be delivered to him, ^^^^ and gave him her hand in token of friendship, but would accept nothing in return, though he offered her ten times as much as would have purchased the hogs at market." * * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i. pp. 244, 245. Present of i' ,' I • M it 1 * ; ■ f it, •• 192 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP :t — - CMAP. VI. rresent from tliu Qucuii. Explorlngf Eclipse of the sun. Attention ol tilt Queen. ■1 On the 2l8t July, the queen again came on board, and brought several hogs as a present, for which, as usual, she would accept no recompense. On her de- parture, the captain accompanied her on shore, whtre he was very kindly treated, and remained during the day. As he was parting in the evening, he intimated that he would leave the Island in seven days, which she instantly comprehended, and expressed a desire that he would extend them to twenty. " I again," says the commander, " made signs tl.at 1 must go in seven days, upon which she burst into tears, and it was not without great difficulty that she was pacified." On the morning of the 25th, a party, consisting oi forty seamen and all the marines, was sent out to explore the interior of the island. The instructions given to them would almost lead us to think that the expedition had been fitted out with the expectation of discovering regions abounding in gold and silver : They were directed to " examine the soil and produce of the country, not- ing the trees and plants which they should find, and when t^«^v saw any stream from the mountains, to trace it to its source, and observe whether it was tinctured with any mineral or ore." While they were absent an eclipse of the sun was observed, and the queen was sliown the powers of the telescope, which excited in her " a mixture of wonder and delight which no language can describe." With a view to the security of the party, Wallis invited her and several of the chiefs on board, to partake of a dinner which was prepared for the occasion ; but her majesty would neither eat nor drink. In the evening the men returned, and reported that they had " proceeded up the valley as far as they could, searching all the runs of water, and all the places where water had run, for appearances of metal or ore," but had found none. Shortly after, the great lady and her attendants departed, and on leaving, asked her host if he siill persisted in quitting the island at the time he liad fixed ; " and when," sjiys he, " 1 made her under- Vtand that it was impossible I should stay longer, she Ifv X^SEgBs y-.iS!wisi™*- im. 1» ■4 !^*'- ii-!i^ ■- "»% ^ |H H • I ll ■ ; r ■ '1 ■^ '. i 102 ■ ^■-^ "7 111 H CHAP. VI. ri'csent fi'om tliO QUL-Jll. Exploring EcUpse of the sun. On the u«f, and l)rouj :.■ u^% ..„' ^ i. , as usual, sIm r«o*nu|n UK'. On Ijh-i tie- jtarture, i . . nnii. i Jur on sluti'p, \>ufp"r lie was V Atc<i, rtiid retuuine'l thtrin^ thr day. A» ,-■ itits;;; in iUc wvcrjint?, lie i».ti»nat' rl that he ^ .<Atc lin' ialniid in wvcn ilays, whic'i ^hi." instantly fvii»'/uleJ, and »xj'ifss d u d«>iire that he would ex thiiu to t>u;ut\. ''I ti^ain," aaya the command , " iruul*- sigjis that i iiiu«it gu in swven day.s, upon whi . flhc biirst into toinii, v.il it wu» not «itli. )t great dIflF :lly tJmt »hc wi.-s juu r.u'd," On th< ui'Tiiintj r-f tlv; ^'Hh, h ]"!k«ty, consisting oi forty se;n 'i: and all th<' nsru int-s, waj> sent out to cxj'lore tlie intei •• ui the isl.ind. Th* instrnctiuns givtu to them wo d «,hiu»*«) WvA an to 'Mnk that th** (fXiM-dition had beei iil ti ring regions a to " exa inj^ the when tb it to its with an I ■ 1 1 ut.ted .' ' i't4tttn\ not- >uinUuitd. ij J iiud to tra<:o ..,►4 >l»i. V*' wlierlu-r it wa8 tinctmvd Wliile llit. V wero al'S«.'Ht uu le. eclipse tin- suu \\m < ^.served, and the ^jiiftu wiw shown t powi 18 (d the rclcbi'ope, whicli oxciud in her " a mi J V \f wundt'f and d(di|4:ht vvJiieh no ]anj;uage can des party, ' board, i the drink ■^U■'^t Kit \hv Bfcurity <d" ilui ' liv r^'iefH on tt. ■if: •k,« for occ II >>u< Wcf majj-^ty sft-oulij In tfu « v.;nii>/if thi' ju<'jj rtuiru<*d, ai*d f»"^j.>< sttd that th y had •* pi '.ict^'d^^d yp tlie >alley aa f'lr <*» t»i'-*y could, ."..ij-cdn'n^: all iho run-i of watir, jind all tliopbutes Attention of thti Queuu. when ■e at( r iiad run, foi* .ujtjicarui toi's ct* metal or ove. but ha^ i'juii^ nt'l ii. d her attendants departed, and on leaving, asked her host if he still i)ersisted in quitting the island at the time he Viad fixed ; " and when," says he, " 1 made her under- hand that it was impossible I should stay longer, she I Hi t y 'Iff ] ♦ ll i, i •"il!P»ipPliP!!pp||||P!||Wl!i^^ I % r \ i *. WWW^'f^ BYRON, WALLIS, ANI> CARTERET. 195 expressed her ngret by a flood of tears, which for a chap. VI. while took away her speech." * The next day, the ship being completely supplied ivcpamtion with wood and water, preparations were made for sail- '•*' **«!*»*' *"*«^ iiig. The island princess came on board with presents, and renewed her solicitations that Wallis would remain ten days longer, and on receiving a negative, burst as usual into tears. She then inquired when he would return, and on his intimating in ififty days, she tried to reduce the period to thirty. She remained in the Dol- phin till nighty and when told that the boat was I'eady to conduct her on shore, she threw herself down on the arm-chest, and wept very passionately ; and it was with the greatest difficulty that she was prevailed on to quit the vessel. The next morning, that of the 27th July, she again came to see her friends, " but not being able rasrfonato to speak, she sat down and gave vent to her passion by ofthe Queea weeping ;" and it was not until they were under sail that she took her departure, " embracing us all," says the narrator, " in the most affectionate manner, and with many tears." Soon after, the ship was becalmed, when the queen again came off in her canoe, in the bow of which " she sat weeping with inconsolable sorrow." The captain gave her various articles which he thought would be of use to her, and others that were merely ornamental ; and, as he remarks, " she silently accepted of all, but took little notice of any thing." About ten o'clock, a fresh breeze springing up, the ship cleared the reef, when the natives, and particularly the queen, once more bade them farewell, " with such tenderness of affection and grief," says the navigator, " as filled both my heart and my cyes."+ To tlie harbour in wliich 1^ }'■ I * Huwkesworth's CnW., vol. i. p. 251. + Ibid p. 239. The account of liis interview with this lady has eijMtSi'd Wallis to a good deal of" ridicule. Mr BaiTow (Eventful History of the Mutiny of the Bounty, London, 18111, p. 16) remarks,—" Tiie tender passion had certainly caujrht hold of one or both of these worihios, and if her majesty's lanfrnaife bad been as well understood by Captain Wallis as that of Dido 196 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP Isknd of Eimea Craiy state of the Dolphin. CHAP. VI. he had moored he gave the name of Port-Royal ; but it MatavafBay. *8 better known by the native designation of Matavai Bay. He now sailed along the shores of the neighbouring island of Eimeo, which he named after the Duke of York, and on the next morning discovered the one which he dedicated to Sir Charles Saunders, though the native appellation seems to be Tabuaemanu.* Another, about ten miles long and four broad, called after Lord Howe, was the next discovery ; while a dangerous group of shoals was denominated the Scilly. The ship's course was continued westward until she made the Traitoi-s and Cocos Islands of Schouten and Le Maire, which the captain designated Keppel and Bos- cawen. The crazy state of the Dolphin now determined him to return to Europe by the west, instead of braving again the stormy climate of Cape Horn or i,he Straits. He accordingly shaped his course for the Ladrones, and arrived at Tinian on the 19th of September, having discovered on the way two small islands enclosed within a coral reef, which his officers, in honour of him, called vras to iBneas, when pressing him to stay with her, tliere is no doubt it would have been f'uuna not less pathetic, — " Nee te noster amor nee te data dextera quondam Nee moritura tenet crudeli f unere Dido ? ' " Nor couhl my kindness your compassion move, Nor plit^hted vows, nor dearer bands of love ? Or is tlie death of a despairinir queen Not worth preventing, though too well foreseen? — DnVDEK. Dalrympie has characterized Captain Wallis as " him who left the arms of a Calypso to amuse the European world with stories of enchantments in the New Cytherea, mistaking the example of Ulysses, who never wished to return home till he had achieved that for which he went abroad." But it should be kept in view, that the narrative, though it runs in Wallis' name, was in reality the com- position of another; and that the blunt and unsuspecting seaman may not have been very likely to discover the ridiculous colouring which the account was made to assume. * This is the name by which Mr Ellis usually calls Sir Charles Saunders' Island ; but he also uses tliat of " Maiaoiti."— Vol. i. p. 8. h. BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 197 ■'Vallis.* At Tinian he remained about a month, when li set sail for Batavia ; in his passage to which he en- countered many tempestuous gales, " While one of these blasts was blowing with all its violence, and the darkness was so thick that we could not see from one part of the ship to the other, we suddenly discovered by a flash of lightning a large vessel close aboard of us. The steersman instantly put the helm a-lee, and the sh:^> answering her rudder, we just cleared each other. This was the first ship we had seen since we parted with the Swallow." The remainder of this voyage was marked by no incident of any interest. The Dolphin anchored in the Downs on the 20th of May 17C0, just 637 days from the time she had spread her sails in Plymouth Sound. The separation of Wali is and Carteret at' the western mouth of the Straits of Magellan, however muc'.i re- gretted by the commanders at the time, cannot no'.v be regarded as otherwise than fortunate. Had the vessels kept company, the knowledge of Otaheite and of a few small islands would, in all probability, have been the only acquisition ; but while the one was exploring its coasts, the other, by pursuing a track more to the south- ward, made discoveries of equal importance, and brought back to Europe tidings of the long-lost lands of Quiros and Mendana, as well as of a strait betwixt New Britain and New Ireland. As was formerly noticed, it was on the 11th April 1767, when the vessels had just come in sijilit of the South Sea, that the Dolphin caught a favourable breeze, before which she stood away and soon cleared Cape Pill res, leaving the Swallow in the narrows, where siio * This discovery is spoken of in the text us rDnsistinjf of only one island, wliile the acconi[)anying' chart shows two. It were cer- tainly to be wished that there had been no discrepancy; hut we have the authority of Hawkesworth for follow inj^ the latter. " Great care," says he, " has been taken to make the charts and the nautical part of the narrative coincide; if there should be any difterence, which it is hoped will not be the case, the charts -are to be confided in as of unquestionable authority." -General Intrcd. p. vii'. CHAP. VI. WalliJt Islands. Providential escape^ Hesultsoflhe si'pn ration ot W.I His and Carteret. Parting of tiicir vesscli I il It i. 198 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP i ]' CHAP. VL Insufficient BuppUe& Course of Captain Carteret Pitcaim's laluuiL Peopled by tlic muti- neers of tlie Bounty. remained four days. Captain Carteret ascribes much of his detention to the crazy state of his ship and the want of proper supplies, — a subject to which he frequently recurs during his voyage. On leaving the Straits, he stood to the north for the island of Mas-afuera, where he stopped some time to procure a supply of water. He then sailed to the west\^ .rd, and searched, though in vain, for the islands of San Felix, and for Davis' Land or Easter Island. His first discovery was that of a spot the romantic history of which has attracted in later times so much attention. On the 2d of July, he descried land, which on a nearer approach aj)peared " like a great rock rising out of the sea :" its circumference is described as not exceeding five* miles ; and it is added, that it was covered with trees, but without any appearance of in habitants. The surf, which broke with great violence on every side of it, forbade landing, and in honour of the young gentleman to whose eye it first appeared, it was called Pitcaim's Island. It was a perusal of Carteret's description of this spot that led Christian and the mutineers of the Bounty to seek in it a retrent from the vengeance due to their guilt.t It was well adapted for their purpose ; approach was difficult ; it seemed to be uninhabited, afforded fresh water, and the trees with which it was covered showed it to be fertile. They found in it, indeed, every thing which they de- sired from external nature, and had no hinderance to their hopes of happiness but in their own evil passions, which in a short time brought down upon them punish- ments as deadly as those they sought to fly from, and stained this fair isle with crimes as dark as ever ti-agedy recorded. Pitcairn's Island has been supposed to be the La Encavnacion of Q,uiros ; but the description which that navigator gives, — "low and flat, with a • Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i. p. 341. By the accompanjir.g chart the circumference appears to oe about nine milcti. f Beechey, vol. i. p. 80. It BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 199 sandy surface, here and tLere diversified by a few chap. vi. trees," * — is quite inconsistent with the hilly land, the supposed summits of which Beechey found to be 1109 feet above aKreement the sea. Captain Cook's conjecture, that it is identical diwovwier with Quiros' second discovery, — the Island of San Juan Bautista, — seems also untenable. This last is described as " plain and even a- top," and as containing about twelve leagues ; circumstances which are by no means applicable to the other, t Mr Barrow remarks, that " we muc ; look for La Encarnacion somewhere else ; and Ducies Island, in that vicinity, very low, and with- in 6° of longitude from Pitcairn's Island, answers pre- cisely to it." I About six days after his departure hence, Carteret Omnbnrg discovered southward of his track a small, low, flat "'"""^ island, almost level with the water's edge, and covered with green trees. He bestowed on it the name of the Bishop of Osnaburg, and, according to his calculation, its latitude was 22° south, its longitude 141° 84' west. Captain Beechey searched in this neighbourhood two days, but was unable to find it ; and he therefore imagines it to be identical with one on which he discovered the marks of a shipwreck, supposed to be that of the Matilda whaler, lost near this in 1792. This he pro- J^™?J/*^' poses should be called Osnaburg and Matilda Island. Whaler. We are reluctant to dissent from so able a navigator as the gallant captain ; but his theory appeal's irreconcil- able with the facts. Carteret speaks of Osnaburg Is- land as " small, low, and flat, and covered with green trees ;"§ and, as Captain Beechey himself remarks, the crew of the Matilda " describe themselves to have been m i • See above, p, 94. + A Voyage towards the South Pole and round the World, 1772- 177^) vol* !•) General Introduction, p. xii. Captain Cook has beea led into an error from a misinterpretation of the Spanish text, the meaning of which seems certainly rather ambiguous. But, however it may be construed, the " level top," on which all are agreed, makes ft inapplicable to Pitcairn's Island. ± Kventful History of the Mutiny of the Bounty, p. 28U, nota 6 Hawkesworth's ColL, vol i. p. 343. yii 200 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP Dlscrepan cies in various accounts. I Olonoester isluuds. CHAP. VI. lost on a reef of rocks ; whereas the island o a which these anchors are lying extendsyot<r/&en mxlea in length, and has one of its sides covered nearly the whole of the way with high trees, which, from the spot where the vessel was wrecked, are very conspicuous, and could not fail to be seen by persons in the situation of her crew." * In attempting to remove this striking dis- crepancy by the hypothesis " that a considerable al- teration has taken place in the island," he must have foi'gotten, that if this be Osnaburg, it was " small " and covered v.ith trees in 1767, the date of its discovery. How improbable is it that it should have been wooded then, have become a bare reef of rocks in 1792, and again bear trees, and extend *' fourteen miles in length," in 1826 ! The next day, Carteret saw two small islands, wliich he called after the Duke of Gloucester ; they were re- plenished with wood, but apparently uninhabited, and the long billows rolling from the southward convinced him that there existed no continent in that direction. He continued his course to the westward, until he had sailed, according to his reckoning, 1800 leagues from the shores of America ; when, finding his en- deavours to keep in a high southern latitude ineffectual, and his crew in a sickly condition, he determined to approach the equator, to get into the trade- wind. His object was to reach some island where he might procure refreshment ; after which he hoped to be able to resume his voyage towards the south. On the 26th of July, he was in latitude 10° south, ° and longitude 167° west, where he expected to fall in with the Islands of Solomon, and for that purpose kept in the same parallel until the 3d of August, when, having attained the latitude of 10° 18' south, and longi- tude of I77g° east, " five degrees to the westward of the situation of these islands in the charts," he came to the conclusion, "that if there are any such islands their Scnrch for the isliuuls £>oIumon. • Beechev. vol » p. 217. I \ I BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 201 Indeflnlte- ncfs of fonncr discoverers. DeUplit of tlie crew at sight of land. situation is erroneously laid down." Had the construe- chap. vi. tors of tliese maps examined the original authorities, they would have scarcely ventured to assign any certain position to these islands. The latitude in which the ancient writers place them varies from 7° to 19° south, and the longitude from 2400 miles to 7500 miles west of Peru ; and so imperfectly was their situation ascer- tained, that even their discoverer was baffled in an attempt to revisit their shores.* At daybreak on the 12th of August, land was seen, and so distressed were the crew that, says the captain, " the sudden transport of hope and joy which this in- spired, can, perhaps, be equalled only by that which a criminal feels who hears the cry of a reprieve at the place of execution.'* It proved to be a cluster of islands, of which seven were counted, but there was reason to believe that there were many more. In the evening, the ship anchored off the largest, and the natives were discovered to be black, woolly headed, and naked. The lext morning, the master was despatched in the cutter to explore the coast for a watering-place ; and the long- boat was sent on shore in the afternoon to endeavour to establish a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. These, however, either disregarded or did not understand the amicable signs made to them, but resolutely ad- vanced within bowshot of the boats, when they dis- charged their arrows, and instantly fled into the woods. No harm was sustained by this attack, which was re- turned with a fire of musketry equally unsuccessful. Shortly after, the cutter came alongside, with the master mortally wounded by three arrows which were still sticking in his body, and three of the seamen in the same condition. The savages, it appeared, had at first received them with marks of friendship, and only com- menced an attack on the master when they saw him wantonly cutting down one of their cocoa-nut trees. * Sep above, pp. 80, 82; and Dalry.nple's Hist Coll., vol. i p. 44-46. Attack of the nativeaL P^ mmm 202 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP Determined hnstility of tlte naUves. CHAP. VL The next, and several succeeding days, were spent in ob- taining a Binnll supply of water ; but such was the deter- mined hostility of the people that the party were obliged to keep within shelter of the guns. There was no hope of obtaining the refreshments required, and on the l7th, therefore, the anchor was weighed, and the vessel pro- ceeded to coast the northern side of the island. It ap- peared to be very populous, and numerous villages were observed, from some of which the inhabitants came out as the ship passed by, *' holding something in their hands, which looked like a wisp of green grass, with which they seemed to stroke each other, at the same time dancing or running in a ring." * On arriving at the west end of the island, the sickly condition of his crew, his own bad health, the frail state of his ship, and other considerations, determined Carteret immediately to stand to the north, abandoning all thoughts of southern discovery, or of more closely ex- amining the interesting group which he had reached. To the whole cluster he gave the general appellation of Queen Charlotte, and distinguished seven of them by individual titles. The largest was called Egmont or New Guernsey, — and, says he, " it certainly is the same to which the Spaniards have given the name of Santa Cruz ; " — the native term seems to be Andany or Ni- tendy. One which exhibited volcanic appearances, and seems to have been remarked by Mendana,t was desig- nated Vulcano. The most northerly of the group was named Swallow or Keppel.J Three to the south and Qneen Charlotte Islands. 1 ■I • Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i. p. 359. + See above, p. 81. The identity of Queen Charlotte's Islands with the archipcliigo of Santa Cruz, discovered by Mendana in 1595, was triumphantly established by M. le Comte de Fleurieu in a work entitled '' Decouvertes des Fran9ais dans le sud-est de la Nouvelle Guinee. Paris, 1790," 4to. This volume is distinguished by the most laborious research, sin^lar acuteness, and critical discrimi- nation. An English translation appeared at London in 1791 . X In the chart, this island is called Swallow — in the text, Kep. pel. M. Balbi (Abrege de Geo^fraphie, Paris, 1833, p. 1267) conjectures it to oe identical with what he calls *' le groupe de Fi. BYRON, WALLI8, AND CARTERET. 203 cast of Egmont were called respectively, Lord Howe's chap.vi. or New Jersey, Lord Edgecurabe's or New Sark, and jfameTgiven Ourry or New Alderney ; and the name of Trevanion to tho was bestowed on a small one at the north-west comer isiamiT of Santa Cruz. The two islands of Edgecuinbe and Ourry, modern geographers represent as only one, bear- ing the appellation of Toboua. It has been proposed by French writers to withdraw the name of Queen Char- lotte, as applied to this cluster, and to substitute the "Archipelago of La Pcrouse," in honour of that un- fortunate navigator, who perished on one of them, a^ we shall hereafter have occasion to narrate. On leaving this group, Carteret held a west-north- Oowcr's, west course, and on the evening of the second day, dis- anIJ cart". covered a small, flat, and low island, which he called vtt'8 isiunds Gower's. The inhabitants resembled those of Egmont ; ^^^'f^'^'^' no anchorage was found, and during the night tht- cur- rent drifted his ship to the southward, and brought him in sight of two other islands. The smaller of these was denominated Simpson's ; and to the other, which was lofty and of a stately appearance, the captain gave his own name, which he seems to have been rather fond of linking to his discoveries, as his voyage presents us with Carteret's Island, Carteret's Point, and Carteret's Har- bour. The inhabitants were quite naked ; their arms were bows and arrows, and spears pointed wiih flint, and, says tlie gallant author, " by some signs which they ^"[,',^,^ pT" made, pointing to our muskets, we imagined they were fire-arm^ not wholly unacquainted with fire-arms." Tliis know- ledge they most probably received from a triditiontl account of the visit of Mendana, about two ceiturics previous; for it is completely established th t these islands are part of the archipelago which bears the name of Solomon. Gower's, for exai jple, is identified with the Nombre de Jesus of the Spaniards, and with loli;" but as he mentions this as " compos6 de huit ilots," and Carteret describes Swallow Island as ''al^n^ilat island;" his theory does uot seem to be tioable. 204 CIKCUMNAVIGATIONS OP CarterctV nine islandi). CHAP. VI. the Inattendue of the French navigator Surville ; and Carteret's is supposed to be the JNIalaita of Mendana.* He now changod his course to the north-west, and on the 24th discovered nine islands, which he imagined to be the Ontong Java of Tasnian, — an hypothesis which has not been adopted by all modern geographers, sonivi of whom assign this to Carteret as an original discovery, M, d'Urville considers a group lately made known by the American captain, Morrell, and named by him the Massacre, to be identical with Carteret's Nine Islands.t On that same night another was seen, and called after Sir Charles Hardy ; it was of considerable extent, flat, green, and of a pleasant appearance, and numerous fires which blazed upon its shores showed it to be well peopled. It is supposed to belong to the Green Islands t visited by Schouten and Le Maire.;}; At daybreak of the 26th, they saw one to the southward, large and high, which was named Winchelsca'? or An8on*8,§ and about ten o'clock next morning, they descried another to the northward, which was conjectured to be the St John's ^nphorjnjr In Island of Schouten. Soon after, the elevated land of Wy, New New Britain was visible, and light winds and a strong current bore the Swallow next day into the gulf which Dampier had named St George's Bay. Here Carteret anchored, and remained several days for the purposes of refreshment ; during which time he visited some small islands and harbours, and took possession of the whole country, " for his majesty George the Third, king of Great Britain." While attempting to get off the land, in order to double Cape St Mary, he was met with a violent gale lirituiu • See above, pp. 71» 72. f Observations sur Ics Decouvertes dii Capitaine Americain, J. Morrell. Par M. J. d'UrviHe. Bulletin de la Societe de Geogra- phie, tome xix. No. cxxi. p. 272. t See above, p. 116; and Burney's Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii, p. 418 § This discovery receives the name of Winchelsea in the text and of Anson in the chart, ft seems to be tlie Bouca of Bougainville. BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 205 right a-hcad, and a strong current at the same time set chap. vi. tlie ship into St George's Bay. Finding it impossible p„s,;j^of to get round the cape, he determined to attempt a pass- st. (ieorgc'8 age through the inlet, which, from the flow of the sea, ^'''*""'^'' he was induced to tliink must open to the westward. He accordingly stood in that direction, and passing a large island * which divided the channel, found, on the morning of the 11th September, that he had lost sight of New Britain, and that the supposed bay was indeed a strait. It was named by him St George's Channel, while the land on the north, which had been hitherto supposed a part of Nova Britannia, was forthwith de- nomiMated New Ireland. Carteret pursued his course Now Ireland, along the south side of this country, and on the same night discovered an island larger than the former, to which he gave the appellation of Sandwich. During his stay, some canoes, manned by the people of New Ireland, rowed towards the ship. These were black and woolly headed, and much resembled the people of Queen Charlotte's group. Like them, they were naked, ex- Native cept a few shell ornaments on their arms and legs. Adornment. " They had, however," says the navigator, " adopted a practice, without which none of our belles and beaux are supposed to be completely drest ; for the hair, or rather the wool upon their heads, was very abundantly powdered with white powder, and not only their heads but their beards too." f Steering nearly westward, in a short time he came to the south-west extremity of New Ireland, which was named Cape Byron ; while to an island, divided from the other by a narrow strait, he gave the title of New Hanover. This is described as * The perplexinff discrepancies between the text and charts of this voj^age, render it almost impossible to present a clear account of the situation of these inlands. The island, called in the chart " I. Man," seems to be wliat in the text is called the Duke of York's Island ; and the Isle of Man of the text seems to be the small oblong' island, north of the promontory named in the chart Cane Stephens. T Hawkesworth's Coll., vol i. p. 379. 206 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OF CHAP. VI. Portlund lidjuU. A«lmlrr,lty Ittlandtti Evidences of n distinct race in ilie »utlvti& Arrlvnl nt tlie riiilippine Islundti. high, " finely covered with trees, among which are many plantations, and the whole has a most beautiful appearance." Next morning, six or seven islands were perceived to the westward ; their extent was vcjry con- siderable, and they were named after the Duke of Port- land. The swell of the sea now convinced Carteret that he had passed through the channel and was clear of all the land. On the 15th September, he reached some islands, of which the inhabitants resembled those of New Ireland ; but this cluster, called by him the Admiralty, he was obliged to leave after a very superficial and imperfect ex- amination. Four days later, he discovered two small ones, which he called Durour's and Maty's ; and on the 24th, other two, to which he gave the name of Stephens* Islands.* The next day, he observed a group, consist- ing of three, surrounded by a reef. The natives were of a copper colour, with fine long black hair and pleas- ing features, evidently of a distinct race from the people of New Ireland. One of them who came on board, re- fused to leave the ship, and accompanied the voyagers to Celebes, where he died. The captain called him Joseph Freewill, and named the islands after him ; though the original designations were ascertained to be Pegan, Onata, and Onello. On the 12th of October, a spot of land scarcely bigger than a rock was seen, and denominated Current Island ; and the next day, two nearly as small were observed, on which the title of St Andrew was bestowed. On the 26th, the adventurers made the coast of Min- danao, one of the Philippines, where they spent several days in endeavouring to establish a friendly communi- cation with the natives. On the 4th of November, ♦ The late French n^Tigator, Duperrey, having in vain sought for the islands last named in the situation assigned to them hy Carte- ret, has come to the conclusion that they are the Providence Islands of Dampier. — Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier, chap. xi. ; and Rapport fait k 1' Academic Royale des ftciences, sur le Voyage de la Coquille, commandee par M. L. J Duperrey. 4to, p. iv. ";! BYRON, WALLI8, AND CARTERET. 207 i' 1 finding themselves diHappointed in their hopes of pro- chap. vi. curing refreshments, they set sail for the island of ^,,„p,^ ^y ^ Celebes. In their progress, they were attacked at mid- pimtu. night by a pirate, who endeavoured to board them. De« feated in this attempt, he commenced a discharge with swivel guns and fire-arms, which the Kngiishman re- turned with such deadly effect, ** that shortly after he sunk, and all the unhappy wretches on board perished. It was a small vessel ; but of what country, or how manned, it was impossible for us to know." At length, Anrborinfr after a tedious and stormy passage, on the 15th of De- •" "'^ 1'"^ "' cember, Carteret anchored off the town of Macassar, from which he removed in a few days to the Bay of Bonthain. The jealousy of the Dutch, which had pre- vented him from remaining at the former place, wrought him considerable annoyance during the five monchs he stayed at the latter. On the 22d of May 1760, he set sail fcr the i»land of Java, where his vessel ui\^erwent extensive repairs before proceeding on her homeward voyoge. He stopped at the Cape of Good Hope on the 28th November, and continued there till the 6th of Ja- nuary 1769. On the 19th of February,* nearly three weeks after leaving the island of Ascension, a ship was discovered bearing French colours ; and at noon of the next day she was so close to the Swallow as to be able to hail her. " To my great surprise," says the captain, ^".j?'^!''^J^y , ** the French vessel made use both of my name and that ;,'uiuvlllo. of the ship, inquiring after my health, and telling mc, that alter the return of the Dolphin to Europe, it was believed we had suffered shipwreck in the Streight of Magellan, and that two ships had been sent out in quest of us." The officer here alluded to was M. Bougain- ville, who had just sailed round the globe, and was now directing his course homeward. JNo other incident • The date assi^^ed to this rencontre by Bougainville, in the text of his book (p. 3U6), is the 25tli of February, and the 18th is that given in the Introduction (p. 7). where lie says Carteret ar» rived m England in June, two months later than the true date. #: ! 1 ! 1 n 208 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS, Ac Return to Spitlieud. Departure of Captain Cook. CHAP. VI. worthy of notice occurred during the voyage. On the 7tli March, the Swallow made the Azores, or Western Islands, and passing between St Michael and Terceira,* dropped anchor on the 20th at Spithead. More than six months before the return of Carteret, Captain Cook had sailed from England on the first of those expeditions which brought him such imperishable honour, and so widely enlarged the bounds of science. But before we proceed to the relation of the life and actions of this illustrious navigator, we have to record the circumnaviyjation of the Frenchman just named, and tlie voyages of one or two less distinguished dis- coverers. * The Bibliotlieaue Universelle des Voj'ages, par M. Albert Montemont, Paris, U533, translates this part of Carteret's Journal as follows : — " Le 7 Mars nous arrivames anx lies Hebrides, et nous passames entre Saint-Michel et Tercere." — Vol. iii. p. 229. Who could have imagined that St Michael and Terceira were among tlie number of the Hebrides ! (i CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 209 CHAPTER VII. Circumnavigation of Bougainville. Project for colonising the Falkland Islands — Their Cession to SpaiiT — Disputes with England — Settlements abandoned — Bougainville discovers the Dangerous Archipelago — Maitea — Otaheite — In- cidents during, his Stay there — Takes a Native with him— The Grand Cyclades or Australia del Espiritu Santo — Louisiadeor the Solomons — Bouca — Cheiseul and Bougainville Islands — Return to France — The Otaheitan in Paris — Voyage of Marion — Expe- dition of Surville — Terre dcs Arsacides — Voyage of Shortland— New Georgia — Retrospect. •4 St; France was among the latest of European nations to chap, vil embark in South Sea discovery. Her career may be ^ — •^ Commence- said to comn.^nce with Bougainville ; for before his day mcnt of the she had produced very few eminent navigators, and of ^.'.[J:^"^,!^^^ these the adventures are so imperfectly recorded, that it aiscovcry. is almost impossible to separate what is certain from what is doubtful, or to distinguish between truth and fiction. In 1503, the Sieur Binot Paulmier de Gonnevillc is ;';fi|'|;^'."^ reported, in sailing to the East Indies, to have obtained (!( x,\v a view of a southern land, by some imagined to be ]M"W ^'"^^'^"'^ Holland ; though, with a greater show of reason, it is supposed by others to be the island of Madagascar. The discoveries of La Roche and of De Beauchcsne Gouin, in the latter years of the seventeenth century, have been already mentioned.* The beginning of the i:'4 ! I See pp 130, 132. 210 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. CHAP. VIL Fmitlcss French expeditionSi Le Gentil rie la Bur- binaiSk Proposprt col<iiiisation of the Fiilklani Islands.] succeeding age was marked by several French expedi- tions into the Pacific, but which were attended by no results of any interest or importance. It is only neces- sary to advert to one of them, — that of Le Gentil de la Barbinais, — and even this is involved in so much doubt, that the acute Bumey has questioned " if such a voyage was really made by such a person."* This officer is said to have engaged as supercargo of a French ship, under an English commission, bound for the South Sea. He left France in August 1714, was at Concepcion in March following, and about a twelvemonth afterwards proceeded to China. Subjected there to various delays, he embarked on board another vessel, and returned home in 1718. His narrative is disfigured by the grossest ignorance, and is perfectly useless for any geo- graphical purpose. As a specimen of his accuracy, it may be mentioned, that he places Port Desire on Tierra del Fucgo ; assigns to Staten Island a more southerly latitude than Cape Horn ; and tells that this latter pro- montory was discovered by a certain Captain Hoorn, who gave it his own name. The first French circumnavigation had its origin in a design of colonising the Falkland Islands, — a project which, as we have seen, occupied a prominent place in the expedition of Commodore Byron.t Louis Antoine de Bougainville was born at Paris in 1729, of a family of which he was not the only dis- tinguished member, — the writings of his elder brother, Jean-Pierre, having assigned him a high rank as a geo- * Chron. Hist Discov., vol. iv. p. 508. •)- Bougainville, who had appeared as an author before liis circ.im- naviiration, himself wrote the history of his voyag- ander the title of " Voyage antour dii Monde par la Vretnite dn Roi La Boiideuse et Ja Flute L'Etoile, i;({6-17«!). Paris, 17/1," 4to. Another edition anpeari'd in 1772, in two volumes 8vo; and in the same year, an abridf^ed translation into the German langnaf^e was |)ublished at Lelpsic, in one volume 8vo. An English translation, bj' John Rein- hold Forster, was printed pt London in 1772, in one volume 4to. Occasion will be taken to point out a few of tlie blunders wliich disfigure this publicatiou. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP B0U»3AINVILLE. 211 grapher, a critic, an antiquary, and a poet. The early life of the former was marked more by activity than by steadiness of purpose. He passed through a variety of professions, and was successively a barrister, secretary to an ambassador, an adjutant, a captain of dragoons, an aide-de-camp, and a colonel of infantry. In all these capacities he discharged his duties with great reputa- tion, and among other honours which he received, his sovereign conferred on him the order of Saint Louis. When the peace of 1763 deprived him of a field for the exertion of his military talents, he turned his attention to naval affairs ; and, struck with the happy situation of the Falkland Islands as a place of refreshment for vessels sailing to the Pacific, he proposed to the French government the establishment of a settlement there. The expense of the expedition he undertook to dis- charge from his own private resources, aided by his relatives ; and having procured two vessels, the one of twenty,* the other of twelve guns, he set sail from St Malo on the 15th of September 1763. After touching at Santa Catalina and at Monte Video, to procure a stock of horses and horned cattle, he arrived at the Falklands on the 31st of January in the following year; and, having sailed along the northern coast in search of a harbour, came to a great bay in the eastern extremity of the cluster, which seemed to be well fitted for the proposed colony. On landing, he discovered the cause of an illusion which had deceived many of the early voyagers, to whom it appeared that these islands were covered with wood, — an effect produced by a gigantic rush, not less than five feet in height. He remarked, too, the singular fearlessness with which the animals, hitherto the only inhabitants of these bleak regions, approached the colonists ; and that the birds permitted * Burney, on what authority we know not, describes the larger of the two vessels as carrying twenty-four guns. — Chron. Hi»t. Discov., vol. V. p. 143. M. de Bougainville's words are, — " L'Aigle de vingt canons et le Sphinx de douze." — Voyage autour du Monde, p. 48. CHAP, vir Efliication of De Bou- gainville Ilononrs conferred ou him. ExpefllMon iiiKlcr liis guidauce. Can^f* of ♦(>ria r Uiuaions. 212 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOTTOAINVILLE. CHAP. VII. Fearlessness «r the natlvo aaiiuala.. Poutrain- ville's colonists. M. de >fcrville. return of Bouciiin- ville to the colonists themselves to be taken by the hand, and even voluntarily alighted on the persons of the new settlers. When the islands were lately visited by his majesty's ships Tyne and Clio, the British officers made a similar observa- tion. " The snipes were abundant in the marshy places, and so heedless of approach as almost to submit being trodden upon before taking to flight ;" and the wild geese are described as " standing goggling with out- stretched necks at their assailants, merely trying to get out of the way with feet, when wings would have served them better." * Bougainville's little establishment consisted of no more than twenty-seven individuals, five of whom were females, and three children. On the l7th of March, Ihey commenced the construction of their future habi- tations, which were merely huts covered with rushes. They also erected a magazine capable of containing provisions for two years, and a small fort mounting fourteen pieces of cannon. To encourage this feeble community, M. ^e Nerville, cousin to the navigatoi*, consented to remain in charge of their interests until his relative should return from France with supplies ; and, having made these arrangements, the latter so- lemnly took possession of the country in his sovereign's name, and on the 8th of April set sail for France. In October, he again departed from St Malo, and reached the Falklands on the 5th January 1765, having during the voyage made a fruitless search for Pepys' Island. He found the settlers in perfect health, and, having landed those he had brought with him, he proceeded to the Straits of Magellan, in order to take in a cargo of wood for their use. From this voyage, in which he saw the fleet of Commodore Byron, he returned on the 29th of March ; and on the 27th April following, mailed again for his native country, leaving behind him no * Narrative of Visit to tlie Falkland Islands, bv an Officer ot the Tyne ; published in the Atheneeum, Numbers Sli'j and 300, 20th and 2/th July 1U33. fi CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 213 fewer than eighty persons.* In the latter part of the chap. vii. same year, he despatched a vessel from France, which provisions was accompanied with a store-ship belonging to the mui ainmnui- 1 . . . . , ••• i .1 iii tidii sent to kmg, carrymg provisions and ammunition to the settle- the settle- ment. These left the colony in a prosperous condition ; '"""'• its numbers were about 150 ; the governor and com- missary (I'ordonnateur) were provided with commodious mansions of stone, and the rest of the population had houses built of turf. There were three magazines for public and private stores ; of the wood brought from the Straits several vessels had been built, besides two schooners destined to make a survey of the coasts ; and a cargo, consisting of oil and the skins of sea-wolves, was consigned to the mother- country. It will be in the recollection of the reader, that, in '['jiyj^^^'* January 1765, Commodore Byron had taken possession iKtween of the Falklands in the name of his Britannic Majesty, ElfgiamL"^ and liad rapidly surveyed their coasts and harbours.t In 176G, an English settlement was made at Port Eg- mont (the Port de la Croisade of the French) ; and in December of that year. Captain Macbride, of the Jason frigate, having touched at the establishment formed by Bougainville, claimed the islands as belonging to the British crown, and threatened to force a landing if it were not amicably conceded. His tlneats did not re- quire to be executed ; he was permitted to go ashore, and, having visited the governor, left the colonists in peace. Before this period, however, the Spaniards had ei^in'^" advanced a claim, which the court of France were not inclined very seriously to resist, as they had found by this time that there was small chance that tacir parti- cular views would ever be realized. Accordingly, in * SnantsTi I I ■ • « La colonie se trouvait composee de^ quatre-vingtx pei- sonnes," says M. de Bougainville, p. 52. This Mr J. R. Forster translates, — "The colony consisted of twenty-four |j)ersons."— P. 41. The same statement is repeated at p. 135, vol. iv. of " An Historical Account of all the Voyages round the World." 4 vols 8vo. London, 1773. •|- See above^ p. 173. q to Spain. I!*: 214 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. CHAP. VII. the month of November 1766, the French administra- Isiandsceded *^**" acknowledged the right urged by Spain, and deter- mined to cede the islands accordingly. M. de Bougain- ville has omitted to mention the grounds on which this demand was based ; but from the expression " le droit primitif," and his attempt to give to the Spaniards the honour of first visiting the Falklands, It may be conjec- tured that their claim was made on this footing. " It appeal's to me," says he, "that the first discovery of them may be attributed to the celebrated Amerigo Vespucci, who, during his third voyage for the discovery of America, in the year 1502, sailed along the northern coast. He was ignorant, indeed. If it belonged to an island or was part of a continent ; but it is easy to con- clude from the route which he followed, from the latitude at which he arrived, and from his description of the coast, that it was the shore of the Malouines."* But M. de Bougainville, in forming this theory, must have misunderstood the main facts on which he pro- ceeds. " We found this land, says Vespucci, " altogether barren, without harbourSy and destitute of inhabitants." These remarks cannot apply to the Falkland Islands, which, says Burney, " in every quarter present good harbours, where safe anchorage may be found." But even if tlie merit of making it known is to be attributed to Vespucci, still it confers no " droit primitif " on the Spanish crown, as that navigator, during the voyage in question, was in the service of Emanuel, king of Portugal.t Jlistakon ideas of >I. dc iJougaiii- ville. • Voyngp, p. 47. The Malouines is the name commonly applied by tlic French to this chister, which to tlie grievous perplexity of geojrraphers, has at different times received the names of Davis' i^outliern Island, Hawkins' Maiden*land, Sihaidde VVeert's Islands, Pepys' Island, Belda Australis, Isles of St Louis, Malouines, Islea Nouvelles, and Falkland Islands. •j" It has been already stated (above, p. 77) that these islands were discovered by Captain John Davis, and any lengthened discussion of Vespucci's claim were here out of place. It may be mentioned, tliat his voyages are involved in much doubt, and that better evidence than lias yet been adduced must be brought forward before we can place implicit reliance on his alleged discoveries. The reader will Wi. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 215 France having, on whatever grounds, recognised the chap. vit. claim now mentioned, M. de Bougainville received NewlxpetU- orders to proceed to the colony, and, after formally tion of m. de delivering it up to the Spaniards, to make his way to ^"Jf**"' the East Indies by pursuing a course between the tropics. For this expedition he received the command of the frigate La Boudeuse, mounting twent y-six twelve- pounders, with power to reinforce himself at the Falk- lands by taking the storeship L'Etoile. He put to sea Rptnm to on the 16th of November 1766, but on the 21st wasV'^''^- obliged, by stress of weather, to seek refuge in Brest. Here he made various alterations in the equipment of his vessel, in particular, exchanging his heavy cannon for the same number of eight-pounders. On the 5th December, he resumed his voyage, with a crew, consist- ing of eleven officers, three volunteers, and 203 sailors, warrant-officers, soldiei's, cabin-boys, and servants. He was also accompanied by M. Le Prince de Nassau Sicghen, who had obtained the king's permission to join the discoverers. On the morning of the 31st of January 1767, h^ Monle N^idco arrived at Monte Video, where he found two Spanish frigates commissioned to receive the formal cession of the Falklands. In company with these he sailed on the 1 u find an instructive discussion on Vespucci in tlie Appendix No. ix. to Mr WashinfTton Irvinjy's History of Columbus (vol. W. pp. 157, 191 ). We are certainlj' of the opinion expressed bj' Dr Ronertson, tliat several years after the alleged voyaye of Vespucci, the farthest extent of discovery did not exceed "tliirtv-fi''e dej^rees south of the equator." It is singular that Malte brun should have been ignorant of the theory put forward by Bougainville. ".Permetty and Bougainville are of opinion," he says, "that iliese islands were discovered between the years 1700 and 170U, by five vessels that set out from Saint Malo; hence the origin of their French name." — Malte Brun (English translation), vol. v. p. 482. Since tliis note was written, the author has seen the Voj-age autour du Monde of M. Duperrey, who has come to the same conclusion, that Ves[)ucci did not discover the Falklands. RI. Duperrey thinks that the lanri discovered by Vespncci was the New South Georgia of Cook, which he sup[)oses to have been previously visited by La Roche and Duclos Guyot. — Voyage de la Couuille, Partie Hislorique, vol. i. p. 98. I ^1 ii^flEn i um% tmmm mi 216 CIIICUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. CHAP. VII Delivery of the settle- ment to the Spanish officers. Fate of til e settlers. Arrival of liostilo fri(rntca at Port Egmont 1- i 1 I i 28th of February, and on the evening of the 23d of March anchored off the islands. On the 1st April, ho delivered the settlement to the proper officers, who took po-ssession of it by hoisting their national standard, which, at sunrise and at sunset, was honoured with a salute of twenty-one guns as well from the shore as from the ships in the port, A letter from the French king was read to the colonists, granting them license to re- main under the dominion of their new sovereign, — a permission of which several families availed themselves. The rest embarked in the Spanish vessels, which sailed for Monte Video in the end of April, leaving Bougain- ville to wait tlie arrival of the Etoile. Before entering on the narrative of his voyage, it may be proper briefly to advert to the fate of the settlers on these contested islands. In November 1769, an Englisli frigate, which cruised in those seas, fell in with a schooner belonging to Port Solidad, as the station was now named. The claims of the British captain were met by strong assertions of right on the side of the Spaniard ; but the parties contented themselves with formal protests and declarations, and no hostilities en- sued for some months. On the 4th of June 1770, a vessel of the same nation put into Port Egmont, under pretence of distress, but the arrival, three days after, of four other frigates, her consorts, speedily led to the dis- closure of the real objects of the visit. This force con- sisted of five ships, bearing 134 guns and upwards of 1600 men, including a party of soldiers and marines, who were accompanied by a train of artillery, compris- ing twenty-seven pieces, besides four mortars and some hundred bombs, Tlicse extensive preparations are cer- tamly placed in a ludicrous point of view, when it is mentioned that they were directed against " a wooden block-house, which had not a port-hole cut in it, and only four pieces of cannon, which were sunk in tlie mud, to defend it." * The officer in command saw the im- * Annual RefJ•i^tc^ for 1771> p- 9. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 217 Embarking were of tho possibility of making any effectual resistance, and only chap, vir waited the actual commencement of hostilities that he might demand articles of capitulation. These concluded on the 10th of June ; and shortly afterwards '^"^'^'^*- all the settlers embarked in tlie frigate, and reached this country in September. Tlie intelligence of these transactions excited a strong sensation here, and the popular voice was loud in demanding redress for this act of injustice. Ministers were charged with meanness in tamely submitting to an insult on the nation, and several motions on the subject were made in parliament. After much negotiation, the matter was amicably aiTanged, by a declaration of the Spanish sovereign, that " he disavowed the said violent enterprise." At the same time he gave liis consent that the English Restoration should be reinstated in the same condition as before the '5,**"'^^. 10th of June, — coupled, however, with a reservation, tlie lidiisii. that this concession should not anywise "affect tho question of the prior right of sovereignty of the islands.'* In virtue of this explanation, Port Egmont was formally restored to the British, in September l77l ; but the settlement, which had led to so much discussion, and nearly involved the country in war, was found so un- profitable, that it was abandoned the succeeding year. The history of the establishment which our qovernment has recently made in these islands belongs to another part of our work. We now return to M. de Bougainville, who, having Course pnr- remained at the Falklands during the months of March, Bouguhi. " April, and May, 1767, without being joined by the ^'iie- store-ship that was to accompany him, at length set sail for Rio Janeiro in the beginning of June. This port had been appointed as a place of rendezvous in the event of L'Etoile failing to reach the Malouines ; and on his arrival, he found that his consort had been in the harbour about a week. He continued there until the middle of July, when he proceeded to Monte Video ; where he was so long detained by various accidents that he did not resume his voyage till the month of Novem- I mmmmmmmmmm CHAP. VII. Interview witli tliu nutivcs of Tlerrn tlel Kuego. Size cf til o' Piitugoiuun.'i Search for Davis' Lund. L'lle cle la 218 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. her was fur advanced. The Cape do las Virgenes was made on the 2d December^ and on the 2dd of January 1768, he cleared the western entrance of the Straits of Magellan. During this passage, he had various inter- views with the tribes, both on Tierra del Fuego and on the continent. In a group of Patagonians which he describes, there was none taller than five feet ten inches, nor below five feet five, French measure ; which, being reduced to the English standard, gives as the greatest stature six feet 2*5704 inches, and as the smallest, five feet 10'3d4 inches. We are told at the same time, that the crew of L*Etoile had, on a previous voyage, seen several natives whose height exceeded by four inches that now stated^ His first object, on entering the Pacific, was to search for Davis' Land, which, like many previous navigator^ he did not find. He then directed his course in a more w^esterly direction, and, on the 22d of March, discovered four small islands, to which he gave the name of Les Quatre Facardins. The wind prevented him from approaching this group, and he therefore bore westward for a small island about four leagues distant. So heavy a sea broke on all sides, that it was found impossible to get ashore on this little spot, which, from the appear- ance of its inhabitants, was named L*Ile des Lanciers. At daybreak on the 23d, land was again visible ; which, on examination, proved to be an islet in the shape of a horse-shoe very much elongated, whence he was induced to bestow on it the name of L'lle de la Harpe. Captain Cook supposes Les Quatre Facardins to be identical with the Lagoon Island discovered in his first voyage, and L'lle dcs Lanciers and L'lle de la Harpe to be the same as his Thrum Cap and Bow Island.* In this hypothesis he has been followed by M. Fleurieu, Captain Beechey, and some other writers ; but much as we are disposed to respect his opinion, we cannot, in this instance, yield • General Introduction to Cook's Second Vo\'age, p. xviii. below, pp. 2H2, 263. See CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 219 onr assent. Bow Island and L'lle de la Uarpe are evi- chap, vil dontly one, and Les Quatre Facardins may with some ^„ppJJ^ probability be regarded aa only another name for the coincidence Lagoon, though Cook's remark, that « the whole looktd "^'^»«"^««'* like many islands," is rather opposed to M. de Bougain- ville's description of " quatre ilots." But our chief ob- jection is to the identification of Thrum Cap with L'lle des Lanciers. In the French officer's account of the latter, one of the most prominent features is the cocoa- tree. " Tout I'interieur," says he, " etoit couvert de bois toufFus, au-desms desqucls a'elevoient les tigesfeconde* des cocotiera;** and again, *^ Les cocotiara nous offroknt partout leurs fruits^ ct leur ombre sur un gazon emaiUe defleurs*** Of Thrum Cap, Cook says, " Nor could Cook-i we distinguish any cocoa-nut-trees, though we were isj^nd! within half a mile of the 8hore."t There is a still more material discrepancy in the extent of these islands ; for while the one just named is described as " n t much above a mile in compass,"! we are told that L'lle des Lanciers is a league in diameter. Captain Beechey, in supporting the theory of Cook, mentions a circumstance which, had he attended to Bougainville's description, must have convinced him it could never apply to Thrum j Cap. That island, the gallant captain remarked, was " well wooded, and steep all round.^* As we approached L'lle des Lanciers, says the Frenchman, *' we perceived that it was surrounded by a very level shore of sand."§ These striking differences lead us to the conclusion, that Thrum Cap is a discovery of which the honour is due to Cook, and that L'lle des Lanciers must be sought for in some other island of the same archipelago. On the 26th, La Boudeuse was near a very low island stretching from south-east to north-west, in length * Voyajfe, p. 179. f Hawkesworth's Coll.. vol. ii. p. 73. :J: Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. ii. p. 73. Captain Beechey saj'f", "Thrum Cap is only 1700 yards lon^, by 1200 broad." — Voyage to the Pacific, vol. i. p. 255, et ibid. '210 'M' UDie. § '( Nons decouvrimes qu'elle est borde d'une plage dc sable tres lie." — Voyage, p. 1/9. Tlic Island of Muitua. 220 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. criAP. viL about twenty-four miles ;* and for two days her course L' ArphT (1 ^^y *"^o"l? several others, which, being partly over- Dangereux, flowed and surrounded by rocks and breakers, rendered tlie navigation very perilous. To the whole, lying between Lcs Quatre Facardins and these last, was given the general name of " L'Archipel Dungereux." Eleven were sten, but it was conjc eturcd that there were many more, and M. do Bougainville was of opinion that Quiros discovered the south part of t!ie chain in 1606, and that it is the same to which, in 1722, lloggewein gave the name of the Labyrinth. The voyagers still pursued a westerly course, and, on the morning of the 2d of April, descried a high and very steep mountain, which they named Le Boudoir or Le Pic do la Boudeuse. This is the Maitea of our modern maps, the Osnaburg Island of Wallis, and probably the La Decena of Quires. As they drew near, they beheld land more to the westward, of Which the extent was undefined. They immediately bore down for this ; but it was not until the morning of the 4th that they were sufficiently close to hold any communi- cation with the inhabitants. These came off in their skiffs, and presented a small hog and a branch ot banana in token of amity ; and very soon after, the sliips were surrounded with more than 100 canoes, engaged in a brisk traffic. The French voyager seems to have been as strongly impressed with the beauty ef Otaheite as was his predecessor Wallis. " The as- pect of the coast," says M. de Bougainville, " wtis very pleasing. The mountains rose to a great height, yet there was no appearance of barrenness, all parts were covered with woods. We could scarcely believe our eyes, when we beheld a peak clothed with trees, even to its solitary summit, which rose to the level of the mountains in the interioi^part of the isle. Its breadth grew grad- ually less towards the top, and at a distance it might * " Vin^t-qimtr« milles." — Voyage, p. 182. This is tranoldl.d oy J. H. Forster *' twenty-four leu(/ue:i." AiTlval at Otaiicite. CIl have beer which the with garhi our eyes cascade, \ tops, and village w there app* On Ian strations < trict forth he found their han< the word mansion, the Btran courtesies nor curio navigator and wate several pi A prof shore w( was info stay on to their urged h( to which days, to reduc • Voya + Durii of one of descriptio a note on and willi looked up would liai not say, philosoph CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 221 have been taken for some pyramid of a vast height, ciiAR vir. which the hand of a tasteful decorator had en wreathed r. "77. . With garlands of fonage. As wo sailed along the coast, of tiiu iitiuud. our eyes were struck with the sight of a beautiful cascade, which precipitated itself from the mountain- tops, and threw its foaming waters into the sea. A village was situated at the foot of the waterfall, and there appeared to be no breakers on the shores." * On landing he was received with mingled demon- Roroption hy strations of joy and curiosity ; and the chief of the dis- "'cWunJti* trict forthwith conducted him to his lesidence. Here he found several women, wlio saluted him by laying their hands on their breasts, and repeating several times the word tayo. An old man, also an inmate of the mansion, seemed to be displeased with the appearance of the strangers, and withdrew W'ithout answering their courtesies, but he manifested neither fear, astonishment, nor curiosity. After having examined the hou8e,-j- the navigator was invited to a repast of fruits, broiled fish, and water, on the grassy turf in front, and he received several presents of cloth and ornaments. A proposal made by the stranger to erect a camp on ||'»JectioTis to shore was received with evident displeasure, and he remaining was informed that though his crew were at liberty to ^° ^^'^^^ stay on the island during the day, they must retire to their ships at night. On his wishes being farther urged he was asked if he meant to remain foi* ever ; to which he answered that he would depart in eighteen days. An ineffectual attempt was made by the natives to reduce the period to nine ; but they at last con- • Voyage, pp. 187, 18«. + During this examination, M.de BonrainviHe observed an image of one of tiie deities of the natives, and has given a very graphic description of it in his work. His translator, Mr J. R. torster, in a note on this passage, denies the exis-tence of idolatry in Otaiieite, and with coul arrogance remarks, that '' had M. de Bougainville looked upon many ihings with a mote philosophical eye, his account would have proved less subject to mistakes." — P. 2^1. We need not say, that in this instance the mistake exists only in the ^' d: .><« philosophical eye " oi the trauslator. * •M> I 1 222 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINTII LB. CHAP. VIL liii '\ Friendly rS tentioiiH to the sick. Fertility ani*. beauty of tlio eountry. Dunclna Womnn of OtaUjiU. rented, and at once resumed their former amicable Gearing. Tlie chief set apart a large shed for the ac- commodation of the sick ; the women and children brought antiscorbutic plants and shells, when they learn- d that these were prii^ed by the French ; and the males gave their cheerfal assistance iii supplying the vessels with wood and water. Every house was open to the strangers, and the natives vied with each other in e\:ces8 of hospitality. They welcomed them with songs anc^ feasts, and exhibited their dances and wrestling- matches before them. " Often, as 1 walked into tho interior," says Bougainville, " I thought I was trans- ported into the garden of Eden ; v/e crossed grassy plains covered with iair fruit-trees, and watered by small rivulets which diffused a delicious coolness around. Under the shade of the groves lay groups of the natives, all of ^ hom gave us a friendly salutation ; those whom we met in the paths stood aside that we might pass, and CTRCUMNAVIOATION OP BOUOAINTILLE. 223 every where we beheld hospitality, peace, calm joy, chap, vii, and all signs of happiness." * But this paradise was n,,j.~ perfect only in appearance ; for the possessors of it were pilfering. such accomplished pilferers, that nothing was safe with- in their reach. " We were obliged," says he, " to take care even of our pockets ; for the thieves of Europe are r ot more adroit than the inhabitants of this country." Murder, too, was soon introduced into this Elysium ; several of the islanders were found slain, >»nd evidently by the arms of the Europeans; though the efforts of Perfidy o( tie the captain were in vain exerted to discover the culprits, "^i'^'*"'^ The natives shortly after withdrew from the neighbour- hood of the camp, the houses were abandoned, no canoe was seen on the sea, and tlie whole island ap- peared like a desert. The Prince of Nassau, who was sent out with four or five men to search for the people, found a great number of them, with the chief Ereti, about a league distant. The leader approached the prince in great fear ; while the women, who were all in tears, threw themselves on their knees and kissed Native his hands, weeping, and repeating several times, " Tayo, appeal. mate ! " (You are our friends, yet you kill us I) The prince succeeded in a short time in inspiring them with confider.ce, and their former intercourse was re- newed, even with greater demonstrations of kindneris jn the part of the savages. Vhe bad ground, which in nine days cost him six ^"**''7'f,r! "* anchoi-s, proved a powerful reason for shortening his stay. When the chief perceived them setting sail, he leaped into the first canoe he could find on shore and rowed to the vessel, where he embraced his visiters, and bade them farewell in tears. He took by the hand an islander who had come off in one of the skiffs, and pre- sented him to the commander, stating, that his name was Aoiourou, that he desired to go with him, and beg- ging that his wish might be granted. The young man then embraced a handsome girl who seemed to be his * VoiOiie, p. lUa. 224 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. Aotouron, a native's cnibarcation Oumaitia Island. criAP. vn. mistress, gave her three pearls from his ears, kissed her once more, and, notwithstanding her grief, tore himself from her arms and leapt on board. " Thus," says Bou- gainville, " we quitted that good people ; and I was no kss surprised at the sorrow which our departure occa- sioned to them, than at the affectionate confidence they showed on our arrival." The French navigator testified his sense of the beauty and enchantments of this coun- try by bestowing on it the name of Nouvelle Cythere, — ^an appellation which, like that givven by his prede- cessor Wallis, has been supplanted by the native title of Otaheite. As they continued their course westward, they disco- vered an island which Aotourou called Oumaitia, and which is, perhaps, identical with that of Sir Cha '. ■•^ Saunders, one of the indigenous appellations of which is Maiaoiti.* It was now the 16th of April, and M. de Bovgainville shaped his course so as to avoid the per- nicious Islands of Roggewein. One night when there was not a cloud in the sky, and the constellations shone in all their tropical brilliancy, Aotourou, pointing to a star in the shoulder of Orion, bade tliem direct their progress by it, and in two days they 'vould reach a fruit- ful country which he knew, and where ho had friends. Finding that his suggestions were not complied with, he endeavoured to seize the' helm and turn tlie vessel to- wards the desu'ed point. It ^ /as with great difficulty that he was quieted, and the refusal evidently gave him much sorrow. At daybreak he climbed to the topmast, and remained there the whole morning, looking stead- fastly in the direction of the territory which he wished to reach. To the islands which he had passed since he quitted the Dangerous Archipelago, Bougainville gave the name of L'Archipel de Bourbon. On the 3d of May, land was seen to the north-west. reslred course of Aoioiu'uu. * EIli3* Polynesian Researches, 2d edition, vol. i. p. 8. The position BBsigned to Oumaitia does Dot agree, however, witli tlie situatioa uf JNIaiaoiti. ■*^ " CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 225 and, on a nearer approach, proved to be one of a cluster of islands, among which the French captain sailed severrJ days. The information yvhich he has collected regard- ing this group (the Bauman Islands of Roggewein) is, however, very scanty, and he may be said, indeed, to have effected nothing more than to give an assurance of its existence. The inhabitants spoke a language distinct from that of Otaheite, and appeared to belong to a dif- ferent and more savage race. He named their abode L'Archipel des Navigateurs ; and to a small island which lie sav/ shortly aiter, he gave the appellation of L'Enfont Perdu. At daybreak on the 22d, a long and high land was discovered to the westward, and when the sun rose two islands were discerned and named He de la Pentecote and He Aurore. As they sailed along the eastern coast of the latter, a small but very lofty eminence was seen ; it resembled a sugar-loaf in shape, and was called Le Pic de I'Etoile.* Shortly after, some mountains were perceived towering above Aurora Island, and at suiiset the voyagers were full in view of the coast of a high and very extensive land. In the morning they sailed along its north-west shore, which was steep and covered with trees ; no huts were per-eptible, but several canoes descried at a distance, and columns of smoke rising from the forest, showed that it was inhabited. About nine o'clock, a party was sent on shore to procure wood ; they found the beach crowded with natives, who were armed with bows and arrows, and made signs to forbid their landing. As the French continued to advance, the savages gradually drew back, but still in the attitude of attack, and the distribution of a few pieces of red cloth only produced among them a sort of sullen confidence ; they still kept to their arms and watched the voyagers with undisguised suspicion. M. de Bougainville landed " This peak, in nnn^aiiiville's cliart, is ca'led Pic de VAverdi, — a discrepancy we sliould not have noticed, had it not been trans- f-Tred to the excellent chart prefixed to Captain Cook's second voja^^e, and thus apt to perplex tho English reader. CHAP. VIL Tl)e Bauiiiun Islands. lie de la Pen- tecote anil.Ilo A arove. .iiS: Hostile ap- pearance 01 the natives. '' Bi I' ;S! 226 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. CHAP, viil in the afternoon to perform the ceremony of taking Attackbv possession of the new territories, -and the boats having tiie naUve* completed their lading, the whole party received orders to return. Scarcely had they left the shore, when the natives-advanced to the edge of the water and directed against them a shower of stones and arrows. A few muskets were fired into the air ; but the savages still pressing on to the assault, a more deadly discharge was directed against them, and they fled into the woods with great cries. Bougainville divides these islanders into two classes, — black and mulatto. Their lips are thick ; thtP o-^ir woolly and frizzled ; their bodies small, ugly, and i 1e ; and their language diff^erent from that of Otaheiie Their arms were bows and arrows, clubs of iron-wood, and slings for projecting stones ; they wore ornaments in their nostrils, a sort of bracelets on their arms, and plates of turtle-shells on their necks. Their condition seemed to be very miserable ; they appeared to be engaged in intestine war ; and the harsh sound of a sort of drum was frequently heard in the interior of the woods calling them to the combat. From the pre- valence of the loathsome disease of leprosy, Bougain- ville named this L'Isle des Lepreux. For several days he continued to sail among numerous islands, the uiha- bitants and general appearance of which exactly resem- bled that which he had visited. He was unable, however, to determine either the number in the cluster, or to examine any of them so closely as to warrant the im- posing of separate names. He had no doubt that this archipelago was the Australia del Espiritu Santo of Quires, and even concluded that he had re-discovered the Bay of San Felipe y Santiago of that navigator.* Notwithstanding this conviction, he gave the group the title of L'Archipel des grandes Cyclades, — a name which has been superseded by that of New Hebrides, bestowed by Cook. A late French geographert has proposed a third * See above, p. }>7. f Abrejje de Gi:oj;raphie, par Adrien Bulbi, p. 12C7. Miserable conditio;: of tlie natives. Hbbridjs. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 227 designation, that of Archipel de Quiros, in honour of chap vtl the first visiter. While the voyagers were among the Grand Cycladcs, CnHons a singular discovery was made on board the Etoile. bJiiJi-d liio "^ The figure, voice, and beardless chin of Bare, the ser- Etoile. vant of M. de Commer9on the naturalist, had excited suspicions of his sex, which were removed only by the hardihood with which he endured toils and privations. The quick eyes of the Otaheitans, however, pierced his disguise the moment he set foot on shore ; and after this recognition, finding it vain to attempt concealment any longer, Bare confessed to the captuin that she was a History of woman, and told him the tale of her life. At an early ||^e volunteer age she became an orphan, and the loss of a lawsuit involved her in such distress as induced her to assume the dress of a man. Slie entered into the family of a Genevese gentleman at Paris, and served him as valet for some time ; when, anxious to make the voyage of the world, she offered her services to M. de Commer9on at Rochefort, just as he was on the point of embarking. " Je lui dois la justice," says the commandant, " qu'elle s'est toujours conduite a bord avee la plus scrupuleuse sagesse. EUe n'est ni laide ni jolie, et n'a pas plus de vingt-six ou vingt-sept ans. II faut convenir que si les deux vaisseaux eussent fait naufrage sur quelque ile deserte de ce vaste ocean, la chance eut ete fort singu- liere pour Bare." * M. de Bougainville lost sight of the Grand Cyclades La Bntnre on the 29th of May, and continued to bear nearly due west till the night of the 4th of June, when the moon enabled him to discover that he was in the vicinity of a low sandy coast. As morning advanced, he found it to be a small islet, nearly level with the water ; he named it La Bature de Diane. Next day, several pieces of wood and some unknown fruits floated by the ship, and on the 6tli many slioals and rocks were perceived. These appearances induced him to alter his course to * Vc>yaj;e, p. 254. . . i ; I It '\ i) I l!i 5 f I li ance. s 11 M i w 1 ' iH^ ji ' 1 iii. Hi ij Hf H "! H-' fl H'' 1 H':' 1 f- 228 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. CHAP. VIL the north, in which direction he stood for three days Cui-fieTnc do without seeing land. Long hefore dawn, however, on roiangerio. . the moming of the 10th, a delicious odour indicated that, he was approaching a coast, and with the increase of light he found himself in a large and beautiful gulf, to which he gave the name of Cul-de-sac de I'Orangerie. " I have seldom seen," says he, " a country of a feirer aspect. A low land, chequered with plains and groves, spread along the margin of the sea, and rose in an amphitheatre to the mountains in the interior, whose heads were hid in clouds. But the melancholy condi- tion to which we were brought, did not allow of our visiting this magnificent country." He once more altered his course, and steered to the eastward along the shore of this new land, which he coasted until the 25th, when, having doubled its eastern point, which he named CapeL>eliver. (jap de la Delivrance, he saw towards the north an open sea, into which he gladly entered. He gave the name of Louisiade to this discovery, of which he ascer- tained little more than the existence, and which is still very imperfectly known. On the 28th, land was once more perceived in the north-west, which, on a closer approach next day, was found to consist of two islands. The inhabitarts were perfectly black ; their hair was curled and long, and stained of various coloui's, white, yellow, and red ; they wore bracelets, and small plates of a white substance on their necks and foreheads ; they were armed with bows and spears ; and their cries and general demeanour in- dicated a warlike disposition. The boats, in searching for an anchorage, found a capacious bay, into which a river discharged itself ; but, while engaged in examin- ing it, they were assailed by about 150 of the natives, embai'ked in ten canoes. These savages fought with much bravery, but were soon put to flight, and two of their skitFs captured. One of them had carved on it the head of a man, the eyes being mother-of-pearl, the ears of tortoise-shell, and the lips stained of a very bright scai'let ; the appearance on the whole, was that of a He ChoIseuL Attack by the uuUvcai CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 229 mask with a very long beard. The jaw of a man, half chap, vil. broiled, was found in one of the canoes. In noticing inrti«itlon or this affray, Bougainville makes an observation which cunnibaiiam. has been amply verified by succeeding navigators : " We have observed throughout this voyage, that the savages of a black complexion are generally more barbarous than those tribes that approach more nearly to white.** The bay where this attack took place, and the land to which it belonged, were named He et Baie Choiseul, and the island has since been identified as one of the Solomons of Mendana, the Arsacides of Surville, and the New Georgia of Shortland. He now determined to seek a passage through the noujrain channel which seemed to divide the two islands, and vnie's soon had the satisfaction to find that it was a strait which gradually opened as he proceeded. It was named Bougainville's Straits, and a current at the southern en- trance received the appellation of Raz Deni3. On the morning of the 3d July, the island of Choiseul was no longer visible, and he stood along the shore of the west- ern land just called after himself, which rose into very high mountains, and was terminated towards the south- west by a lofty promontory, denominated Cap I'Averdi. Land was again perceived still farther to the north-west, and distinctly separated from the cape just described by a strait or gulf. Some of the natives came near the ship, and continued to crv out, " Bouca I Bouca ! ""»''* Onelle !" from which the Frenchman designated their island Bouca. It is believed to be the same with the Anson or Winchelsea Island of Carteret, and is remark- able for the density of its population.* The inhabitants had their ears pierced and drawn down ; and many had their hair stained red, and white spots painted on differ- ent parts of their bodies. Their canoes were smaller, and of a different construction from those of Choiseul. On the afternoon of the 6th, two diminutive islands were perceived towards the north and north-west • ill t .' * See above, p* 204. P StanairiR to the noi ill. 11^ ; li.^- II 230 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. CHAP. VII. and almost at the same moment, a larger one between NewTrdand "orth-west and west, which also presented the appear- Coaat. ance of aoveral good bays. He immediately shaped his course in that direction, and on the evening of the 6th anchored in a capacious inlet. A few days after, a piece of a leaden plate was found, having inscribed on it ... . . . HOR^D HERB ICK majesty's and curiosity having been thus awakened, a farther search discovered numerous and recent marks of the visit of an English vessel. In fact, Bougainville was now on the coast of New Ireland, and the harbour in which he was moored, and which he had called Port Praslin, was within two leagues of that which Carteret had examined, and distinguished by his own name. He remained here till the 24th, when, ignorant of the passage which had been discovered between New Britain and New Ireland, he stood to the north, and then sailed westward along the coast of the latter. He passed the north-western extremity of this country in the beginning of August, and on the 8th saw a low flat island about throe leagues long, covered with trees. It was called Anachoret's or Hermit's Isle ; and a cluster of low islands, among which they were entangled the next day, received the name of L'Echiquier or the Chessboard, On leaving these they discovered the high shores of New Guinea, which they continued to coast till the end of the month, when they entered the group of the Moluccas ; and early in September an- chored at the island of Boero, where they were hospitably received by the Dutch governor. From this they sailed on the 7th, and in three weeks reached Batavia, " one of the finest colonies in the world,'* says Bougainville, " and where we looked on each other as having terminated our voyage." The native of Otaheite who accompanied them, perhaps esti- mated that city more justly, when he described it as " enoua mati " — (the land which kills). On the 16th of October, they again set sail, and having touched at HeriTiit's Islaud. AiTival at BaUvio. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 231 the Isle of France and the Cape of Good Hope, reached cuap. vii. the island of Ascension on the 4th of February 1769. juinnTTot They learned that Captain Carteret had departed hence Ascension. only five days before their arrival, and, as has been al- ready mentioned, they succeeded in overtaking him be- fore he reached Britain.* On the 16th of March, the Arrival discoverers entered the port of Saint Malo, " having," sujnt'jmo, says their commander, ** lost only seven men during the * In tlie Memoirs of Dr Burney by his daughter, Madame D'Arbhiy, London, 1U32, 3 vols ovo, occurs this passage : — '< The following note upon Captain Cook is copied from a me. morandum-book of Dr Burney 's: — <In February, I had the ho. nour of receiving the illustrious Captain Cook to dine with me in Queen Scjuare, previously to his second voyage round the world. Observing upon a table BougainvilWa Voyage autour du Monde, he turned it ovei, and made some curious remarks on the illiberal conduct of that circumnavigator towards himself when they met ' \d crossed each o*hpr, which made me desirous to know, in cxa* mining the chart of M. de Bougainville, the several tracks of the two navigators, and exactly where they had crossed or approached each other. Captain Cook instantly took a pencil from his pocket-book, and said he would trace the route; which he did in so clear and scientific a manner, that I would not take fifty pounds for the book I ' " — Vol. i. pp. 270, 271. While we admire the Doctor's enthusiastic adoration of this relic of Cook, we cannot help smiling at his ignorance. He must have totally misunder- stood his "curious remarks," elucidated as they were by the penciUsketch. Cook and Bougainville never *^met or crossed each other," as the Doctor might have known if he had carefully read the book on which he put so high a value. The time during which Cook and Bougainville were at sea together extends from 26th August 1768, to Ulth March 1769. At the first of these dates the former left England, and on the same day the latter crossed the line in the neighbourhood of New Guinea. la September, Cook was at Madeira, and Bougainville at Batavia, where he remained till the 16lh of October. On the 7th December, the Knglishnian left Rio Janeiro, and on tha 12th the other departed from the Isle of France. On the 14th January 1769, Cook entered Strait Le Maire, and a few days after, the Frenchman doubled the Cape of Good Hope. He arrived in France on the 16th of March, at which time Cook was in the South Sea. At no time were they much nearer one another than half the circumference of the globe. Cook's remarks may have applied to the meeting of Carteret and Bougain. ville (above, p. 2U7, 2U8) ; but the tale is so incorrectly told, that aav further comment were useless. i ■■■■« PB« mmmmmmmmmmm Aotonrou's want of in- telligence. 232 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. CHAP. VIL two years and four months which had elapsed since we — left Nantes : — *" Puppibus et laeti natits imposuere coronas.'" Interest ex- The interest excited in Paris by the appearance of otaheitouin the Otaheitan who had accompanied the voyagers to Europe. Europe was very great ; and, says the leader of the ex- pedition, I spared neither money nor trouble to render his visit agreeable and useful to him. The account which has been left of his emotions and conduct, in a scene and under circumstances to him so extraordinary, is unfortunately very defective and meagre. Mr Forster, the translator of Bougainville, tells us it cannot be denied, that Aotourou ** was one of the most stupid fellows ; which not only has been found by English- men who saw him at Paris during his stay there, and whose testimony would be decisive with the public were I at liberty to name them, but the very countrymen of A-otourou were, without exception, all of the same opinion, that he had very moderate parts, if any at all."* The same opinion seems to have been enter- tained by many of the Parisians ; and though the com- manding officer combats it warmly, he has certainly failed to adduce any proof of even moderate intelligence or capability in his barbarian ward. The only sight which roused his curiosity was the opera. Of this we are told he was passionately fond, — ^knew well on what days the house was open, — and went there alone, paying at the door like any ordinary visiter. In March 1770, he left Paris, and embarked at Ro- chelle on board a vessel bound for the Isle of France, from which the government engaged to convey him to his native island. Bougainville very liberally contri- buted thirty-six thousand francs (about £1600 sterling), the third part of his fortune, towards the fitting out of this expedition ; and the Duchess of Choiseul expended a considerable sum in purchasing cattle, tools, and seeds, * Forster's Translation, p. 265, note. Departure Lorn France. T CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 233 to be taken out to Otaheite. Aotourou arrivid in safety at the Isle of France, which he left on the 18th of October 1771, on board the Mascarin, commanded by M. Marion du Fresne, who had also under his orders a ship called the Marquis de Castries, conducted by M. du Clesmeur. Marion's instructions were to convey Aotou- rou (or, as he is called in the account of this voyage, Mayoa) to Otaheite ; then to explore the Southern Pacific in search of new lands ; and, finally, to examine more closely the lately re-discovered islands of New Zea- land. At the island of Bourbon, the Otaheitan was at- tacked by the smallpox, of which disease he died shortly afterwards at Madagascar. Marion then pursued his voyage to the south-east ; and, in the course of it, he discovered a few small islands, of which the chief are Cavern, Marion, and Marion and Crozet. On the 10th of February 1772, he arrived at Van Diemen*s Land ; on the 24th he made Cape Egmont, on New Zealand ; and shortly after anchored in the Bay of Islands. The horrible massacre, which took place here, of M. Marion and twenty-six of his crew, is too well known. After that catastrophe, the survivors steered for the islands of Rotterdam and Amsterdam, two of the Tonga or Friendly group, and, without having made any dis- covery, visited the Ladrones and the Philippines, and then returned to the Isle of France. This expedition was so closely connected with the re- cent enterprise from the same nation, that though a little inconsistent with strict chronological arrangement, we have given it a place here instead of inserting it after the first voyage of Cook. For a similar reason, and to preserve uninterrupted the narrative of the discoveries of our great countryman, we shall here notice the en- deavours of Surville and Shortland, both of which bear an intimate relation to the navigations of Carteret and Bougainville. The enterprise of Surville had for its object a com- mercial speculation, the nature of which it is not now easy to develop. M. de Fleurieu, to whom the public CHAP. VII. Arrival at the Isle of France. Death from small-pox. MflAMcre ot M. Marion %ad crew. Order of successive expeditionsL I Surrille's enterprise. 234 CIRCUMNAVIUATION OP BOUGAINVILLK. Supposed motives of the voyuge. Extravagant anticipations. I; CHAP. vir. are indebted for the most complete history of it,* has alluded to the motives with a haste and brevity which seem to indicate a desire that something should be concouled or forgotten. This may be considered as a partial corroboration of the account of the Abbe Rochon,+ who maintains that this officer was sent out to discover a new El Dorado, — a marvellous island, abound- ing with gold, and riches, and fine cloths, and inhabited by Jews, — reported to have been lately seen by the English about seven hundred leagues west from the coast of Peru. The acute and learned author of the French Discoveries may well be supposed anxious not to promulgate that his countrymen, in the days of Cook, listened to a tale better fitted for the dark times and heated imaginations of the earliest adventurers ; when Juan Ponce de Leon sailed in search of the Fountain of Youth ; when golden regions were sought for day ; and when the lost tribes of Israel were found in the islands of the Caribbean Sea, oi he sliores of Tierra Firme. Whatever was the aim of Surville, the results of his voyage, in a scientific point of view, were most important. If he foand not the fairy land he sought, he mainly contributed to restore to Europeans a knowledge of the Islands of Solomon, which, since their discovery by Mendana in 1667, had so often eluded the seatch of the most active navigators, that their very existence had become doubtful. Having completed his cargo, he sailed from Pon- dicherry on the 2d of June 1769, in the Saint Jean Baptiste, a vessel of seven hundred tons, carrying twenty-six twelve- pounders and six smaller cannons. He directed his course towards the Philippines, which he passed, and, holding northward, arrived in the end of August ai the Bashee Islands. On quitting these, he steered cowards the south-east, with the intention very Arrival at the Basheo IblunUsi * D6couvertes des Fran9ais dans le sud-est de la Nouvel'e Giiinoe. Paris, 1790. f Voyages a LMadagascar et aux Indes Orientates. Paris, 1791. CIRCIIMNAVIOATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 235 of entering the South Sea in the neiglihourhood of chap. Vll. New Guinea. He erossed the Line on the 23<l Septem- j,^ dTilTrrc. bcr, and on the 5th October was in latitude 4° 38' south, mioro Vuew Frequent signs of Innd had been perceived for sonio days ; and on the 7th an island was seen, which was named He de la Premiere Vue, and on the succeeding day a country of great extent presented itself. He continued to sail along the coast till the 13th, when he reached an excellent harbour, which he called Port Praslin. Here he anchored, and remained nine days port Prasiiiu in the expectation of getting a supply of water and refreshments, of which his crew, though the vessel had been victualled for three years, stood already much in need. These hopes, however, were in a great degree boffled by the treachery and hostility of the savages, which soon led to a battle in which Surville acted a part of questionable propriety. Not contented with vioienco having dispersed the natives by several murderous dis- ["T'v'^!'*' '''° charges of fire-arms, he formed the resolution of taking some of them prisoners ; and, in prosecution of this design, did not hesitate to fire into a canoe, although the people on board seemed inclined to peace. He killed one, and succeeded in securing another, a lad about fifteen years of age, whom he named Lova Sarega, and carried with him. Having procured a few necessaries he left Port Praslin on the 21st, designating the country to which it belonged Terre des Arsacides, or Assassins, Tcrre dos with a view to express the fierce character of the in- ^^^'^^ *^^ habitants, who, in dress, arms, manners, and physical conformation, reserr.uled those described by Bougain. ville at Choiseul Island. The Land of the Assassins is, indeed, identified as belonging to the great archipelago of the Solomons, discovered by Mendana. It was the 6th of November before he cleared the Supposed southern point of this insular territory, of which the inuttendue. knowledge he obtained was very limited. The island which he named Inattendue is supposed to be the same that Carteret had seen, and called Gower. On the 30th of October, he observed another, which received 236 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. DHAP. VII. Islands dis- covered. Arrival at New Zealand. Sufferings of the crew. Chservations of Lieutenant ShortlunU. i^ the appellation of L*Ile des Contrariete's, and on the 3d of November, ho descried three small ones, called by him Les Trois Soeurs. His other discoveries were, a diminutive island named lie du Golfe ; two called lies de la Delivrance ; and the sout^iern extremity of the Land of the Ai*sacides, on which he bestowed the appellation of Cap Oriental.* On the 7th, he 'ost sight of these shores, and directed his course to New Zealand, where he arrived on the 16th of December, at the very time that Cook was beating about the coast. Close, however, as thjy were to each other, the voyagera did not meet ; and, on the Ist January 1770, Surviile left tht island. All hop js of finding the fabled land were already abandoned ; death and disease had made sad havoo among his crew ; and the only object now entertained was to reach some European settlement to save the survivors, who were h*^^ Jly able, even with the assistance of the officers, to hand the sails. In April, they arrived at Callao ; and the captain, anxious for an interview with the Spanish governor to solicit the assistance he so much needed, rashly put oflF in a small boat, and perished in the surf. Scanty as was the information regarding the archi- pelago of the Solomon Isles acquired by this commander and his predecessors, Carteret and Bougainville, their eastern coasts had, nevertheless, been delineated with some degree of accuracy ; and the voyage of Lier.r jnant Shortland, while guarding a fleet of transporfj from New South Wales to England, scived to detei-mine the leading leatures of the western shores.t This officer left Port Jackson on the 14th July 1788, and on the • It has been proposed to call this cape after its discoverer, and it seems but reasonable that his name should 1x3 connected with some part of the arciiipelago. Cook, in his Second Voyage (3d edit vol. ii. p. 2t>7), fails into an error in representi.Uif Surviile to have given " his own name " to the land he discovered. + A narrative of this r?;pedition will be found in " The Voyape of Governor Philip to Botany Bay. London, 178y," 4tu, p. 183.221. rmmm CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 237 dlst, at noon, discovered land nearly in the same lati- chap. vit. tilde with Surville*s Cap Oriental, and bestowed on it pjsc^y of the appellation of Cape Sidney. He continued to sail Cape Siduey. along this coast till the 7th of August, giving ncnnes to the more prominent capes and bays, but obtaining no certain intelligence of the nature or extent of the land. An interview with the natives showed, that they ag sed in all poinis with the descriptions of the French navigators. On quitting this archipelago he sailed through Bougainville's Straits, and continuing his course to the north-west, visited the Pelew Islands, and arrived at Batavia on the 18th of November. Con- , ceiving the lands he liad seen to be a new discovery, he conferred on them the appellation of New Georgia, and bestowed on the chwmel thiough which he passed the name of Shortland's Straits. Rit in no long time, when their position was more minutely examined, it became evident that the countries observed by him be- longed to the same group with the Terre des Arsacides and the Isle Choiseul. The names imposed by the Name finally English were then dropped ; the absurd title given Sc^onloa by Surville was also abandoned ; and geographers now islands. lecognise this cluster by the name of " The Solomons,'* bestowed by its lirst visiter, Mendana. Having traced the progress of discovery in the Pacific Ocean during two centuries and a half, it may now be convenient to pause ; and, before piaceeding to the history of the greatest nev'gator that ever sailed on its waters, survey what had been . Iready accomplished, and what still remained to be done. Numerous as were the expeditions into the South Resnitsof Sea, by far the greater portion of it was yet unexplored, expeuu""" Northwards of the Equator one track only was followed, — ^namely, that between Mexico, or New Spain, and the Philippines, about the latitude if IS** N. ; and from this line little varict'cn was made, i. r was there any attempt \ 1 i ^1 f? ill ill !■ I f, (In i i ''II 1 I'll 1, -, K lOUS. I \ i 238 RETROSriX'T. CHAP. VII. Limited range of ob- servation. "VVallis and Bougdin- ville's range. Merceraiy viewsof otlier navigators. to examine the unknown sea on either side. The great expanse of the Pacific south of the Line had indeed been more extensively navigated ; yet, with one exception, the courses of the several voyagers lay within very narrow limits. The discoveries of Quiros were between 10'' and 25° of south latitude ; Schouten's route was nearly in the parallel of 16° S. ; Roggewein*s was almost coin- cident ; and Mendana's never lay far from 10° S. The most distant land in that direction reached by Wallis was Whitsunday Island, in 19° S. ; Carteret attained a higher latitude, and saw Pitcairn's Island, in 25° ; but the rcr^^otest discovery of Byron was the group of the Disappointment Islands, in 14° S. To the north of the Equator, Carteret effected nothing ; Byron was equally unsuccessful ; and the most northerly position brought to light by Wallis, was the island, in 13° 18' S., which received his own name. Bougainville's range lay be- tween 19° S., th" latitude of Les Quatre Facardins, and 6° S., the parallel of Bouca. These were the only voyagers (with the exception of Magellan) who followed new tracks ; and it will be seen that they confined themselves to the space between the Line and the twenty-fifth degree of south latitude. The many other navigators whose exploits are re- counted in these pages, more intent on the acquisition of Spanish gold than on the search for unknown re- gions, almost invariably pursued one common and well- frequented path. On entering the Pacific, they stood for Juan Fernandez, in order to recover their health or replace their stores ; they then coasted the American continent to California ; after which, they either re- traced their way to the Atlantic by Cape Horn or tlie Straits, or more usually crossed the South Sea in the track of the Manilla galleon. Such was the route of Drake, Cavendish, Van Noort, Spilbergen, the Nassau Fleet, the English Buccaneers, Dampier, Rogers, Clip- perton, Shelvocke, and Anson. The only adventurer into a high southern latitude was Tasman. Entering the Pacific from the Indian Ocean, RETROSPECT, 230 he advanced to about 44° and discovered Van r)ienien's Land. Thence, pursuing nearly the same parallel, he stood eastward till he encountered New Zealand, and, sailing along its western shores, bore northward till he got into the track of Schouten ; having cHsccvered in his passage the Tonga Islands, on the coniines of tlse Tropic. From this recapitulation, it will be seen, that of th< Southern Pacific there remained altogether unknown the great space bounded on the north by the twenty- fifth parallel of latitude, and by the meridians of longi- tude 86° W. and 170° E. No vessel had yet attempted to traverse this wide extent, and, consequently, with respect to it there prevailed the utmost uncertainty and ignorance. A learned geographer writes in 1771, " So far as to absolute experience, we continue ignorant whether the southern hemisphere be an immense mass of water, or whether it contains another continent and countries worthy of our search." * The portion of the Northern Pacific which remained unexplored was, per- haps, still more extensive. Such were the mighty tracts concerning which nothing had been ascertained. There were, besides, several spacious regions, vhich certain navigators had indeed announced the exisl iice, but wlio stopped shoit before the extent was brought t - li ht. Of New Hol- land, only the western side was known ; the nnrthern limit (the strait discovered by Torres in 160t)) had passed into oblivion, and this great country was gen- erally represented as joming New Guinea ; on the south, there was no certainty whether it exten<I '1 to Van Diemen's Land, or where its termination should be fixed ; to the east, it was involved in utter darknoss ; one point only was clear, that it did not stretch 1^ , und long. 170°, being nearly the meridian of Tasm;! track. The limits of New Zealand were still more indefinite. Only its western shores had been visited, and, for all * Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., toI. ii. — " Invpstigation of wliat may be farther expected in the South Sea," p. If Kew UoUand. CHAP. VII. ! 1 Discovery of Van Die- )■ man's Land. 1 Kxtent of ( inipxplorcd space. - 5 i I ! f Imperfectly 4 observed | regions. . i t m 2(0 RKTROSPKCT. ing New Zealand. T'ncertainty us to the existence of a Boutliern cuntlnent CHAP. VII. that was then known, it might have extended eastwar 1 ideasmjard- ^® within 16° of Chili. Mr Dalrymple remarks, that it is " still a question if Staat's Land, or New Zealand, be part of a continent or only islands ; thougli it is most probably the former, as Tasman supposes it to be." In short, the great problem of geography, the exist- ence of a vast Southern Continent, was still unsolved, riie discoveries of succeeding years had no doubt much circumscribed the bounds assigned to it in the sixteenth century ; yet within the unvisited bosom of the Pacific there still remained ample space for a country exceeding Europe in dimensions, and surpassing, even in its most high and palmy state, the widest empire ever seen in either hemisphere. Nor with the believers in this land was its extent its only merit. Its fancied splendour and fertility were to cast into the shade all that had been told of Mexico or Peru ; for here was to be found the original fountain of their civilization, the parent-country of the first Inca ! And to the nation that should dis- cover it there was promised an accession of wealth and power greater than had flowed to Spain from the con- quests of Cortes and Pizarro, ''■i l; m COOK. CHAPTER VIII. Life of Cook previous to nis First Vopage. Birth and Parentage of Cook— His Education — His Indentures with a Draper — Apprenticeship on board a Collier — Volunteers into the Navy — Appointed Master of the Mercury — His Services at Quebec — Hairbreadth Escape — He first studies Euclid — His Marriage — Made Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland and Labra« dor — Communicates an Observation of an Eclipse to the Royal Society — History of the Transits of Venus — Predicted in 1G29 by Kepler — Discovery and Observation of Horrox— First Appre- ciation of its Uses — Professor James Gregory — Dr Edmund Halley — H is Exhortation to future Astrf lomers — Transit of 1761 — Preparations for that of 1769 — Proposal to send a Ship with Observers to the South Sea — Cook promoted to tiie Rank of Lieu- tenant, and appointed to conduct it — His Choice of a Vessel — Sir Joseph Banks determines to join the Expedition — Preparations and Instructions for the Voyage. James Cook was the son of humble parents. His CITAP. Ti;r. father, also named James, and supposed from his dialect Birtirami to he a Northumbrian, was a labourer or farm-servant, parentage of and his mother was of the same rank. Both of them were highly esteemed by their neighbours for their in- tegrity, temperance, and industry. They appear to have resided, first at the village of Morton, in the North Riding of Yorkshire ; afterwards at Marton in Cleve- land, a small place in the same county, situated between Gisborough and Stockton-upon-Tees. Here, in a mud- cottage, every vestige of which has long been swept ; 242 LIFE OP COOK CHAP. VIIL Sister of Cook. Early education. Oriffinal destination. Introduction to a sealiii'lng Ufe. Ambitious views. away, the subject of this memoir was bom on the 27th of October 1728. He was one of nine children, none of whom survived their parents, excepting himself and a daughter, of whose history nothing is recorded but that she was married to a fisherman at Redcar, and that her home became the abode of her father in the latter part of his life, which was extended to the long term of nearly eighty-five years. Cook was taught his letters by the village-school- mistress. Dame Walker. When he was eight years old, his father was appointed hind, head-servant, or bailiff, on the farm of Airy Holme, the property of Thomas Scottowe, Esq., near Great Ayton, at the foot of Roseberry Topping ; and in the school of this place, at the expense of his father' s employer, he learned writing and the rules of arithmetic. At the age of thirteen he was apprenticed to a draper, in the fishing-town of Staiths, about ten miles north of Whitby ; but this employment little accorded with the bent of his disposition, which now developed itself in a strong passion foi' the sea. A qudrrel having occurred tetween him and his master, his indentures were given up, and he bound himself for seven years to Messrs John and Henry Walker, owners of two vessels in the coal-trade. These worthy Quakers early appreciated his good conduct and great anxiety to acquire skill in his profesision ; and after he had served on board the Freelove, and for a short time in another "hip, they promoted him to be mate of the Three Brotlirrs. Pro- mises were made to him of farther preferment ; but to these, as his thoughts were already turned to a loftier sphere, he seems to have given little heed. Mr John Walker, one of his employers, remarked, that " he had always an ambition to go into the navy." * It was not observed by those who knew him at this period, that he • Memoir of Cook, by Edward Hawke Locker, Esq., in the " Gallery of Greenwich Hospital," ^London, 1831) part i. With the amiable Quakers, his first friends, Cook ^ maiataiued if corre- spondence to the last v^ar of his existence." PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 243 was anywise distinguished for talent ; but no one can chap. vni. doubt that his active mind was then laying the founda- y^^.f„^J]!^ tions of future eminence, or that much of the skill in ment of practical navigation, which he afterwards displayed, was j^«,wiertga. acquired in that admirable nursery of seamen, — the eoasting'trade. Early in 1756, on the commencement of hostilities Commence- with France, there was an active impressment in the ^^^"fimes Thames. Cook, then in his twenty-seventh year, hap- with France, pened to be in a vessel on the river, and was at first desirous to conceal himself ; but, after some hesitation, he resolved to go into the service, and proceeded to Wapping, where he entered as a volunteer on board the Eagle of sixty guns. Captain Hamer. Shortly after- wards. Captain Huorh Palliser succeeded that officer ; Friemisiiip J • 1 1 J- • iv » • of Captain and quickly discemmg the young man s superior sea- paiiiser. manship, afforded him every encouragement, rated him quarter-master, and from that time continued to be his steady patron. Letters in his favour from friends in Yorkshire, — among whom was ?.Ir Osbaldeston, the parliamentary representative of Scarborough, — arrived in the course of a few months, and his commander obtained for him a warrant as master of the Mercury n,'^,st''e"*°Ai, frigate, dated the 16th of May 1759. In allusion to Mercury. similar commissions for the Grampus and the Garland, both rendered abortive by unforeseen circumstances, Dr Kippis remarks, " These quick and successive appoint- ments show that his interest was strong, and that tlie intention to serve him was real and effectual." * The Mercury received orders to join the fleet, which, c^^' j**^ *° under Sir Charles Saunders, was in co-operation with General Wolfe, at that time engaged in the siege of Quebec. A combined attack on the fortified position at Montmorency and Beaupoii had been concerted ; but it was necessary, in the first place, to procure accurate soundings of the St Lawrence, between L'lle d'Orleans and the shore on which the French army lay. This, a * BiogrHphiH Britannica (2d edition), vol. iv. p. lOL 244 LIFE OP COOK Dangerous Bervice en- trusted to lilm. Karrow escape from tbe enemy. FtrlTtlng l; CHAP. VIII. service of great danger, which could only be performed during the night, was, on the recommendation of Captain Palliser, intrusted to Cook, who discharged it in the most complete manner. He had scarcely achieved his task when he was discovered by the enemy, who launched a number of canoes filled wftli Indians to sur- round and cut him off. He instantly made for the British encampment, but was so closely pursued that the savages entered the stern of his barge as he leapt from the bow under the protection of the English senti- nels. The boat was carried off in triumph ; but Cook was able, in the words of one of his biographers, " to furnish the admiral with as correct a draught of the channel and soundings as could have been made after our countrymen were in possession of Quebec." There was reason to suppose that before this period he was entirely ignorant of drawing, having seldom or never capacity and handled a pencil ; and if this conjecture be well founded P'jrsevcranco, it affords a striking proof of his capacity and persever- ance. Not long afterwards he was employed to make a survey of the whole river below Quebec ; and his chart was executed with such skill and exactness that it was immediately published by orders of the Admiralty.* Hiu merits now began to a.... 'act general attention, * Besides these important duties, if we could trust the companion of his last voyage, Cook was er.iployed in others of still greater conseiiuence. " At the sic^ of Quebec," it is said, *' Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge the execution of services of the first importance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency ; conducted the embarkation to the heights of Abraham ; examined the passage and laid buoys for the security of the large ships in proceeding up the river." — Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, for making Discoveries in the North- em Hemisphere (2d edition, l^ondon, Ti785), vol. iii. p. 47- For this statement, no other authority has been observed than that of Captain Kin^, whose sketch of Cook's life is meagre and defective. No allus'on is made to it in the minute narrative of Dr Kippis ; and, as he wrote from the information of Sir Hugh Palliser and oiher friends of our navigator, his silence must be regarded as con. elusive. The passage, mdeed, appears to be a vague exaggeration of the real services of Cook, — to which, it should be noted, thern is no other reference made by Cautaiu King ■i PREVIOUS TO niS FIRST VOYAGE. 245 and, on the 22d of September 1759, Lord Colville ap-cnAr.viii. pointed him master of his own ship, the Northumber- ^pj^'J^Yert land, in which he remained on the Halifax station during mtister of the the winter. He must have long felt the difficulties JJlS"""'*^'" under which he laboured from his defective education ; and we learn that he now took advantage of a little leisure, afforded by the season, to instruct himself in the branches of science most necessary to his profession. "It was here, as I have often heard him say," writes Matiipmnti- Captain King, " that during a hard winter, he first read ^"' »i"'i'^'«^ Euclid, and applied himself to the study of mathematics and astronomy, without any other assistance than what a few books and his own industry afforded him." * He accompanied his lordship to Newfoundland in September following ; aided in its recapture from the French ; and by the diligence which he exhibited in surveying the harbour and heights of Placentia, secured the favourable notice of the governor of the island. He returned to England about the close of the year ; Return ti> and, on the 21st December 1762, married Miss Eliza- beth Batts, at Barking in Essex, — a woman of an ami- able and generous disposition, from whose society, how- ever, he was quickly called away.t In the beginning of 1763, Captain Graves; who, c„Yt.n:\ during Cook's visit, had been goveruvor of Newfound- land, was again appointed to that office ; and being Knglftnd iiad inurriuge. .ii'a\c& * Voyag'e to the Pacific Ocean, vdI. iii. p. 47. Captain Kinj^ places this event under tlie year 17<)iit hut, as he ineutiuns that Cook was at that time master of the Nortluimberiand, the date of liis appointment to that vessel shows that it must have been in the siicceedinj^ winter. At the time when tlie future discoverer thus hejj;;in his second education he was in his thirty-first year. •f An absurd story is told by some of the biographers of Cook, that he " was godfather to his wile; and, at the very time slie was christened, had determined, if she irrew up, on the union which af- terwards took place between them. ' Tiiis tale, as we were assur- ed by the late Mr Isaac Craj^jj-Smith, a relative of Mrs Ct)ok, is with- out the 8liy;htest foundation ; the two families were at the time un- acquainted,— the Owe residinir in the suburbs of the metropolis, the other in Yorkshire, where Cook, then only thirteen years old, was terving his apprentice^liip. . \ 246 LIFE OF COOK CHAP. VIII. Employed In a Bui-vey ot Newfound- land. Viilniible rliui'ts publibliud. Oliservntionu ot an cclipfse of tlio sun. desirous to procure accurate surveys of the colony, he made proposals to our navigator, which were willingly accepted. Towards the close of the year he returned home ; but his stay on this occasion was as short as on the former, for his old friend, Sir Hugh Palliscr, being selected to superintend that settlement, and Cook having agreed to resume his situation, he was, on the 18th of April 1764, nominated marine surveyor. In the dis- charge of this duty he continued four years, occasionally returning to England, and spending the winter there. The manner in which he executed his commission called forth the highest approbation. He explored the interior of the country more fully than had been hitherto done, making several valuable additions to geography ; and the charts which he afterwards published wers distin- guished by unusual correctness. During this period also, he furnished evidence of his success in the study of practical astronomy, by " An Observation of an Eclipse of the Sun at the Island of Newfoundland, August 6, 1766, with the longitude of the place of observation deduced from it," communicated to the Roval Society by Dr J. Bevis, and read 30th April 1767. It occupies only two pages in the Transactions, and is evidently a report "drawn up by the doctor, — Cook having probably been in England when he imparted his notes to that gentleman. This is consistent with the remark of Dr Kippis, who speaks of the year 1767 as " the last time that he went out upon his station of marine surveyor of Newfoundland." * * In Watt's Bibliotheca Britannica, in Chalmers' Biojrraphical Dictionary, and in some other memoirs of Cook, there is attributed to him an octavo pamphlet, which was published in the year 17^9, under the title of " Remarks on a Passage from the River Balise, ill the Bay of Honduras, to Merida, the Capital of the Province of Juratan, in the Spanish West Indies, by Lieutenant Cook." This journey he is saia to have performed in 1 765, with despatches from the admiral on the Jamaica station to the Governor of Jucatan, re- lative to the logwood -cutters in the Bay of Honduras. But at that time, as has been stated, he was engaged in his survey of Newfound- land ; and in 1761), ^vhen the tract appeared, he was in the Suutli PUEVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 247 At this period the attention of men of science in all { nits of the world was eagerly turned to an important astronomical phenomenon, the observation of which must be considered as a leading event in the life of Captain Cook, as it gave a new direction and a higher object to his genius. This was the passage of Venus across the sun. The transits of the planets were little regarded until Kepler, in a work published at Leipsic in 1629, aroused the curiosity of astronomers, by predicting that the solar disk would appear to be traversed by Mercury in 1631, and by Venus in the same year, and a second time in 1761. Before any part of this announcement could be verified, its illustrious autlior died (in November 1630) ; but the transit of Mercury was observed by Gassendi at Paris within a day of the time foretold ;* that of Venus, unfortunately, was not visible to him, having taken place while the sun was under the horizon. This he must have lamented the more, as Kepler h^.d picdicted that a century would pass before the recurrence of a similar phenomenon. But a young English astronomer, Jeremiah Horrox, having been led to turn his thoughts towards the suljoct, discovered, that on the 4th Decem- ber 1639, Venus would again pass across the sun. This information he communicated to his correspondent, William Crabtree ; and, on the day mentioned, these two friends, — the one near Liverpool the other at Man- chester, — beheld a spectacle, of whicli, among all the learned men in Europe, they were the only witnesses. Horrox wrote an account of his observations, but dying within a few days after (on 3d January le^lO), more CHAR VII». lin|H)rtiiiit UNrrMiioiniciil plieiuiiiieiu)n. Kpploron tlic trnii^itsof tile pialiUtS. Transit t)bsfrvwl I y llori'dx aii(!l Crabtrti;. i: Sea. In reply to inquiries made in rejjard to this pamplilet, Mr Isaac CrafJ-jf-Smith, after consiiltinif witii Mrs Cook, assured us she was entirely ignorant of it, and tliat her husband had never been in the Bay of Honduras. * The phenomenon was seen by several astronomers ; but Gas- sendi was the only one who published an account of iiis observatioiis m a tract entitled " De Mercurio in Sole Viso et Veiiere Invina, Harisib, 1631, pro udnionitione Kepleii, &c. Par. 1032," 4to. I?-- 24f] LIFC OF COOK CHAP. VIII. than twenty years elapsed before his work was pub- lished.* rscsofoncii ^^ y^^* however, no one had clearly discerned the ubservHttons. uses to whicli this phenomenon has since beeu applied in the discovery of one of the most important truths in the range of science. By observations made at distant points on the globe, the astronomer obtains the means of determining the Sun*s Parallax^ or the angle which the earth's semidianieter subtends at the sun, by means of which he can ascertain the disttince of the one body from the oth<. r. The honour of fii*st pointing out this important application has been commonly ascribed to Edmund Ualley, .though it is certain that lie was anticipated by one whose name is no less distinguished, — James Gregory, the inventor of the reflecting teles- cope, and the first professor of mathematics in the University of Edinburgh. So early as 1G63, this eminent mathematician, then about twenty-four years of age, proposed and solved the question, — " From the apparent conjunction of two planets to find out Uieir parallaxes ;" to which he annexed the scholiu.n : — " Tliis problem, tliough attended with considerable labour, may be productive of the most admirable ad- vanttiges, by observing the passage of Venus or Mercury over the solar disk, for thereby the Parallax of the Sun may be discovered." f This passage demonstrates that First tlls- coverer (f their iivmti cal value GrpRory's scii'jliu:u. • It wa.s entitled, " Venus in Sole Visa, anno 1639," and first appeared in the " Alerrurius in Sole Visus " of Hcvelius, puh- lisiied at Dantzic in l(it)2. f " Problema Ex duorum Planetarum conjunctione corporali iitriuscjue planetae Parallaxes investigare. SchoUiim. — Hoc Problema pulclierrimum liabet usnm, sed f'orsan lahoriosum, in ob- f-orvationibiis Veneris, vel Mercnrii particnlam Solis obsciirantis : ex talibus enim Solis parallaxis investi^ri poterit." — Optica Pro- vwfn. Anthore Jacobo Gregorio, Abreilonensi Scoto. Lond. ItlHS, p. 12JI-130. The claim of Grejifory to this important su^- tjestion was first vindicated by the gentleman who afterwards so ably filled the same academical chair. Professor Wallace (ArchaBolo{i;ia Scotica, vol. iii. |.. 2>53). But several years previous to this, he observes, " I mentioned this passage to the late Dr Hutton, and he very properly noticed it in the Life of Grefjory, contained in the seco'id eilitio"' Vf his Diclirnary. " ( Lond. 1815, vol. i. pj'. (iOl, 602.) PREVIOUS TO HIS FIItST VOYAGE. 249 its ,iuthor was fully aware of the benefits to be derived citap. >'llt. fi'or.i this rare occurrence, and that llnlh-y was not the n^j^y ,, first to appicoiate them. Still, to that j)hiloso|)her is t'.eotyof due the merit of satisfactorily elucidating the theory ol '""""* transits, of directing attention towards thim, and im- jjvessing upon astronomers the vast importance of tlie results to be obt/iiripd from a careful oDservation. His thoughts were called to the subject in the year 1677, during his residence at St Helena, for tlie purpose of examining the stai-s of the Soutliern Hemisphere. 1'here happened at that period a transit of Mercury, Ohservfttion which he observed with the \itniost cuie. Contrary to !!l u!™'!'.' his expectation, he was enabled to fix the very instant in which the planet, entering the sun's limb, seemed to touch it internally, as also that in which it went off. He thus ascertained the amount of time occupied by the passage of Mercury over the sun's disk, " without an error of a single second ;" for, as he informs us, " the thread of solar light intercepted between the obscure limb of the planet and the bright limb of the sun, though exceed- ingly slender, affected the sight ; and, in the twinkling of an eye, both the indenture made on the sun's limb by Mercury entering into it vanished, and that made by going off appeared." He instantly j)erccived that, by such observations, the sun's parallax might be duly de- termined, provided Mercury were nearer to the earth, and had a greater parallax when seen from the sun. But this planet, though it frequently traverses the solar disk, was, he saw, not very suitable for the pur- pose ; because the difference between its parallax and Ovcitervaine that of the sun is always less than the latter, which is J[ ^'JJ *•"«»*'' the object of the inquiry. There remained, however, the transit of Venus, — a much rarer phenomenon, in- deed, but peculiarly appropriate ; because the parallax of that planet, being almost four times as great as that of the sun, occasions very sensible differences between the times in which she seems to be passing over the solar disk, at diflFerent parts of tl.e earth. From due i euu!i. ! i' ^mmmsfmmsmmmmmmmmmmmm 2')0 LIFE OF COOK Simple re- quisites for observation. Ji<'velop- luent (if 1-1 alley 'a views. CHAP. viii. observations of these, he inferred that the 8un*s parallax might be detennined with extreme accuracy, and with- out any other instruments than good clocks and tele- scopes ; while, on the part of the observers, there were only required diligence, fidelity, and a moderate skill in astronomy. The parallax of Venus being once ascer- tained, that of the sun and thence the earth's distance from the sun may be found. And by Kepler's third law (that the squares of the periodical times are pro- portional to the cubes of their mean distances), the distances of all the other planets from the sun may be determined ; so that, from the observation of this one phenomenon, the transit of Venus, can be calculated the diameter of the planetary orbits, and the extent of the whole solar system. Haliey briefly stated the result of his reflections in his *' Catalogus Stellarum Australium," published in 1679. He developed them more clearly in an Essay, read to the lloyal Society in 1691 ;* and in 1716, he again most earnestly recommended the subject to the attention of that body, and of men of science in general. From his advanced age, he could entertain no hopes of living to witness the next transit in 1761. He there- fore solemnly addressed himself to future astronomers, most impressively exhorting them, " moniti hujus nostri memores," to devote all their energies and to use every endeavour to obtain accurate observations of so unusual an occurrence. With great fervour he de- precated such a state of the atmosphere as might ob- struct their view, and off^ered up the most ardent wishes for their complete and triumphant success, — " Utque tandem," he concludes, *' orbium celestiuin magnitu- dines intra arctiores limites coercitje in eovum gloriam famamque sempiternam cedant." t • " De visibili conjunctione Inf'eriorum Planetanim cum Sole." — riiilosonhical T.ansactloiis, No. cxciii, vol. xvii. p. 311-522. f " Metliodus sin^ularis qua Solis Parailaxis r>ive distantia a Terra, o|)e Veneris intra Solem eonspiciendsB, tiito rleterminari po- tent." — Fhil. Trans. No cccxlviii. vol. xxix. p. 4d4-4f)4. Jaiiu's Appeal to his u.>u onomical euccessors. PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 251 Halley died in 1742 ; but his affecting appeal to ciiap. viii. posterity was not made in vain. About a twelve- Bosco^h's month before the long-expected event, the celebrated ititiresstotiia Boscovich addressed a communication to tlie Royal so^ety. Society, warmly urging attention to the phenomenon ; and from the very next paper in the memoirs of that body, read on the 26th of June 17C0, we learn that they had " come to a resolution to send persons of ability to proper places, in order to observe the approach- observLrs ing passage of Venus over the sun, the 6th of June sent to next year."* Under their auspices, accordin/^ly, and jdaoes.' favoured by royal munificence, the Rev. Nevil Mas- kelyne, accompanied by Mr Waddington, re])aired to St Helena, while Messrs Mason and Dixon were de- spatched to Ber^oolen, in the island of Sumatra. Nu- merous preparations wei"e likewise made at home, and methods devised for securing ample communications from observers abroad. The whole scientific world, indeed, as may be seen from the subjoined note, was alive to an occurrence which had been termed " spec- taculum inter Astronomica longe nobilissimum," and Gpnovii individuals of the highest rank partook of the prevailing Entimsiasm enthusiasm .t Ferjjuson's " Plain Metliod of finding the Distances of all the Planets from the Sun by the Transit of Venus," and Benjamin Martin's "• Venus in the Sun," both pul)li-jhed in 17*>l. were" little m )re than loose translations .jf thi>. tract, with some notes and ad- ditions, partly popular and partly scientific. * Thil. Trans., vol li. p. HHli". ■f- In Britain, the observations at Saville House, by Mr Short and Drs Blair and lievis, were made in presence of their lloval Hii>;hnesses the Duke of York (hrotiier to Gcorf^-e III.), Princes William Henry and Frederick, and I'rincess Aujfusta; Lord iMac- clesfield's Observatory at Siiirburn Castle was supplied bv Messrs Hornsby, Phelps, an(l BartU'tt; Air Bliss attended the ifoyal Ol- servatoiy at Gr<>enwich ; Mr Canton observed at Spittal S(juari'; Kilicott and I 'ollond at Hackney ; Mr Dunn at Chelsea; and Mr Haydon at Liskeard, in Cornwall. In other parts of Ei.'liopr. there were De Lalande, Maraldi. and De Lisle, at the Hoval Observatory in the Palace of Lu.xembonr^r and at the Hotel de Clufrny; De la Caille, Le M(>nnier. and Ferner, at CouHans, &c. ; Zanotti at Bologna ; Mayer at Schweziuj^a, near ll»'idelber[r « » »*■ it^ iM MWt^'ifcA -«^Wiii 252 LIFE OF cook: CHAP. viir. Imperfect results of tlie concerted obscrvatioiiSi rt'iposcd nstrononiicdl (xpediti'n to the South Sea. Gi vernment These extensive arrangements were unfortunately in many cases baffled by untoward circumstances. Some observers failed to reach their appointed stations ; a few were not in good health, and had to intrust the duty to subordinate assistants ; in other Instances, the instruments were disordered, or not ready in time ; and, on the whole, the position of the planet and the state of the atmosphere proved generally inauspicious to nice examination. But, though the discrepancies in the results were considerable, the possibility of success on the next opportunity, on the 3d of June 17G0, was as confidently expected as ever. Nearly two years previous to tliat period, the Royal Society resolved to sand out observers to some part of tlip South Sea, betwei-n the longitudes of 140*' and 180° west of Green vvich. They were, however, in no condition to defray the expense of such an undertaking ; and it was found necessary, in February 1768, to pre- sent a memorial to his majesty, sotting forth the great advantages to be derived from it, and requesting the royal aid. This petition was at once granted, and on the 3d of April, Mr (afterwards Sir Philip) Stephens, the Secretary of the Admiralty, informed the society that a bark would be provided for the purpose. It was intended to intrust the charge of the expedition to an eminent geographer, whose name has been often mentioned in the preceding pages, — Alexander Dai- ry m pie, brother to that distinguished antiquary and scholar, Lord Ilailes. Aware of the difficulty, in such Lulofs at Loyden ; l''ximenus at Madrid ; Mallet and Bergmann at Cpsal; (Jlister at Heinosjand; Planniua at Cajanebiir^ ; VVar^ontin and Kling^en.stierna at Stockholm : Justander at Abo, in Finland ; Hellant at Tornea. In Asia, C'.iappe observed at Tobolsk in Silie. ria; Porter, the Knj;^lish ambi.ssador, at Constantinople; Hirst, cliaplain of one of his majesty's shipfi, at Madras ; Magoe at Cal- cutta ; Tollier at Pe-kinir. In AFlUCA may be enumerated, Ma- i!on and llixon at the Cape of Cood Hope, as they were prevented from reacliin;^ Bencoolen; Maskelyne at St Helena. In Ame- lUCA, it was observed by Winthrop at St John's, Newl'ouridland, Jind by others at Kingston and Port Royal, in Jamaica; whil(> Pin- gie was stationed at the island of Rodri^jues, in the Indian Ocean. i PREVIOUS TO ins FIRST VOYAGE. S53 a navigation, of securing tlie obedience of a evew who were not subjected to strict naval discipline, it waf- proposed that this gentleman sliould receive a brevet- commission to command the vessel ; and it was stated as a precedent, that William III. had, in 1608, appoint- ed Ilalley to be captain of the Paramour Fink, on a vo^'age of discovery to the South Atlantic. This was an unfortunate example to adduce ; for the officers and crews of the learned astronomer had sliyhted Ills au- thonty, refused to obey Ins directions, and at last be- came so insolent and insubordinate, tliat, without liaving effected almost any thing, to use his own words, he " found it absolutely necessary " to return to England, and to incur tlie cost of a second expedition. Tliese circumstances could not fail to be rtniembcred bv the Lords of the Admiralty ; and, when the representJition of the society was laid before them. Sir Edward, after- wards Lord Hawke, then at the head of the board, declared, " that his conscience would not allow him to trust any ship of his majesty to a person who had not regularly been bred a seaman." On the matter being again urged, he replied, that he would rather have his right hand cut off than that it should sign any such commission ; and Mr Dalrymple, t)n the other part, was found equally determined not to proceed without it. In this dilemma, Mr Stephens suggested that an- other individual should be employed. With a discri- mination which does him the highest honour, he had early appreciated the talents of Cook, who was now proposed by him as a person fully qualified for the undertaking, and one wl>o had also been regularly edu- cated in the navy. lie appealed for a confirmation of his views to Sir Hugh Palliser, and that gentle- man most warmly seconded the recommendation, which, fortunately for science, proved successful. Cook, then in his fortieth year, was appointed to conduct the expedition, and was promoted to the rank of lieutenant by a commission dated the 26th of May 1768. The Admiralty having intrusted Sir Hugh with the selection of a suitable vessel, he called its future coui- CHAP. VIII, Proposed brevet coiu- misslou. ObstnciO!' oi'ijiinatii v; in tli:j i>iu- Seli't^tion of (Juyk. Proniotpfl to the nmk '*t' lieulwiuiiU •Mr 251 LIFE OP COOK CHAP. VIH, Selection of a vebsel. Essontl?.! (limlities requisite; Illnstrinus t'xaiiiple in confirmation. mander to his assistance, and proceeded to examine a great number of ships in the Thames. Even in thia first step in tho enterprise, its conductor disph^yed the discernment and sagacity for which he was afterwards so remarkable. At that time there was much discus- sion regarding the size and kind of vessels most proper for such a voyage ; some recommending East India- men, or heavy barks of forty guns ; while others pre- ferred large, good-sailing frigates, or three- decked ships, such as were then employed in the Jamaica trade. With that confidence in his own judgment, which is the result of a strong and sound-thinking mind, Cook dissented from the views of both parties, and chose a bark built for the coal-trade, of the burden of 370 tons. He at once saw that the qualities most essential were, that the ship should be of no great draught of water, yet of suflficient capacity to carry the requisite stores ; of a construction that would bear to take the ground ; and of such a size that she might, if necessary, be laid on shore for repair with safety and convenience. These properties, he remarks, are not to be found in either of the two classes proposed, " nor indeed in any other but north-country-built ships, or such as are built fur the coal-trade, which are peculiarly adapted to this purpose. In such a vessel, an able sea-officer will be most venturesome, and better enabled to fulfil his in- structions than he possibly can (or indeed than would be prudent for him to attempt) in one of any other sort or size." * He probably was not aware that his opin- ions on this subject coincided with those of the illus- trious discoverer of the New World. Of the three ships that first crossed the Atlantic, one only was full decked, the others were caravels or light barks, little superior to the small coasting-craft of the present day. " It was not," says Mr Irving, " for want of large vessels in the Spanish ports, that those of Columbus were of so small a size. He considered them best adapted to voyages of discovery, as they required but • General Iiitrod. to Second Voyage, p. xxv. PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. M^h little depth of water, and therefore could more easily chat viii and safely coast unknown shores and explore bays and rivers. He had some purposely constructed of a very small size for this service." * Before the Endeavour could be completely fitted out, Recomm.n- Walh's returned from his circumiiavigation, and rccom- o|!,'i""iteu» mended Otaheite as the most eligible situation for ob- the stutiuiu serving the approaching transit. It had been proposed to make the observations at one of the Marquesas, or at the islands of Amsterdam, Middleburg, or Rotterdam ; but this intention was now abandoned, and the Royal Society expressed to the Admiralty their wish to have t!ie astronomers conveyed to Port Royal, in the newly- found island. The observers whom they selected were Mr Green, assistant to Dr Bradley in the Royal Obser- vatory at Greenwich, and Lieutenant Cook. During these preparations, permission to join the ex- Appiinition pedition was solicited by Mr (afterwards Sir Joseph) oiMr. iiai.i.s Banks, the well-known President of the Royal Society ex^ediuuu. during a period of nearly fifty years.f The wish which he had expressed was at once acceded to, and he im- mediately made arrangements on the most extensive scale. He procured a large supply of such articles as were likely to be useful ov acceptable in the countries he was to visit. He engaged to accompany him a Swedish naturalist, Dr Solander, the favourite pupil of Linnoeus ; ;{: and besides a secretary and four servants, * Life of Columbus, vol. iv. p. 2li4. In his tliird voyage, when sailinif a!on^ the shores of the Gulf of Fi'ria, he complained of the f-ize of his ship, which was "nearly a Irmdred tons burthen." Vol. i. p. 1»1. + Sir Joseph Banks was horn at London, 13th Fehrtiary 1743. Ho quitted Oxford in 17B3, and three years thereafter made a voyaire to Newfonndland. In 177^5 he was elected I'rosidont of the Iloyal Society; he was created a baronet in 1781, re ived the order of the Bath in 1795, and in lilO'i was elected a forcitrn Associate of the National Institute of France, He died lUth May i820. J Solander at this time held an ap[)ointment in the British Mu- seum. Some interestinjT notices of him are ^iven in the Edinburgh Cabinet Librarj-, No. XVI., Lives of Lminent Zoologists, fr<>ij Aristotle to Linnaeus inclusive, p. 343-34U. 1 I 256 LIFE OP COOK, &c. CHAP. VIII. two of whom were Efficient nssistnnts. ri'ovisions, « fflcers, aud Clew. negroes, he took out two draughts- men, the one hi the department of landscape, the other in natural history. The Endeavour was victualled for eighteen months, and had on board ten carriage and twelve swivel guns. Her crew, besides the commander and other officers, consisted of forty-one able seamen, twelve marines, and nine servants, — in all eighty-five persons. The mstruc- tions given to Cook were, to proceed directly to Otaheite, a»d, after the astronomical observations should be com- pleted, to prosecute the general design for discovery in the Pacific, in which Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, had been employed. He was ordered to sail as far south as the latitude of 40° ; if no land was found, he was then to steer to the west, between the foi-tieth and thirty-filth parallels, till he encountered New Zealand, and having explored that country, he was to return to England }>y hiich route as he might think proper. FIRST CIBCUMNAVIOATION OP COOK. 257 CHAPTER IX. First Circumnavigation ofCcf/fc, Departure — Adventure on Tierra del Fueji;o — Discovery of T.nj^on, Thrum Cap, Bow, The Groups, and Ciiain Islands — Arrival at Otaheite — Observation of the Transit and Incidents durinff their Stay — Discovery of the Islands of Tethnroa, Huaheine, Uiiatea, Otaha, Tubai, Bolabola, IMaurun, andOheteroa — JNIakestbe East Coast of New Zealand — Affraj's with the Natives— Doubles the North Cape — Discovers Cook's Stniits, and circumnavigates the Islands -Sails for the East Coast of New Holland — Dis- covery of New South Wales — Botany Bay — Intercourse with the Natives — Port Jackson — Danjrerous Position of the Ship — Ueaches the most northerly Point of Australia— Re-discovery of Torres' Strait — New Guinea — Timor — Batavia — INIortalitv among the Crew— Arrival in England. On the 27th May 17C8, Lieutenant Cook hoisted his chap. ix. pendant on hoard the Endeavour, then lying in Dept- Departure of ford Yard, and on the 30th July hore down the river Lieuteimnt Cook and proceeded to Plymouth, whence he finally set sail on the 26th of August. While at Madeira, which they reached on the 13th visit to Septemhcr, the navigators visited the convent of Santa *^'^''^'^'^- Clara ; and the simple nuns, hearing that some of the strangers were great philosophers, asked among other questions, " When it would thunder \ " and " Whether a spring of fresh water was to be found any where within the walls of the cloister ? " The voyagers passed the island of TenerifFe on the 23d, and observed, after the sun had sunk below the horizon, that the lofty Peak still received his rays, and, while the rest of the island 258 FIRST CIROUMNAVIOATION OF COOK. CHAP. IX. T.iiminous aii)icnTiince Tiona del I UC{{0. Landintr at Strait Lc Sufi. 'rinse liouicoij. reposed in the darkest shades, glowed with a warmth of colour which no lan<yuage could describe. As they pur- sued their course to Brazil, they had an opportunity of observing that luminous appearance of the sea which has so often excited the admiration of marinei's. They anchored at Rio de Janeiro on the 13th November, but the jealousy of the Portuguese governor would only allow refreshments to be procured under the most rigorous restrictions ; and his ignorance was such, that he could form no other notion of the purpose of the voyage than that it was to witness " the passing of the North Star through tlie South Pole !" On quitting this port, Cook kept a look-out for Pepys' Island ; but nothing was perceived but a fog- bank, which at a distance closely resembled land. On tlie 11th January 17G0, he was in sight of Tierra del Fuego, and three days afterwards entered Strait Le Maire. Tiie morning of the 16th was fair and mild, much like one of our bright days in May, and Mr Banks landed with a party to explore the country. They commenced the ascent of a mountain, the lower region of which was covered with wood ; this was succeeded b}^ what seemed a plain, while the top consisted of bare rocks. About three o'clock, they reached the second stage of the hill, which they discovered to be a swamp, overgrown with low bushes of birch, so interwoven and stiff that it was necessary to step over them, while at eveiy exertion the foot sunk ankle-deep in the soil. The day now became cold and gloomy, and the wind swept down in sudden gusts accompanied with snow. Tliey still pressed on in good spirits, and had crossed about two-thirds of the wooded morass, when Mr Buclian, the landscape-painter, was seized with a fit of epilepsy. A fire having been kindled, he was left in charge of those who were most fatigued, while Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and Messrs Green and Monkhousej continued their ascent. By the time they reached the summit, the day was so far spent that it was hopeless FIRST CIUCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 259 to think of regaining the ship before night ; it.was re- chat ix. solved, therefore, to build a hut in a wood at some di.s p ~ . tance, and the gentlemen last named were despatched t( oi u hut. conduct those who had remained below to a spot froni which all might advance together. It was nearly eigbt o'clock before the whole party were assembled at this rendezvous, chilled with the intense cold, but cheerful and in health, — as Mr Buchan had sufficiently recovered to attempt the remainder of the journey. There was still good daylight, and they set forward to reach the nearest valley, — Mr Banks walking last to prevent any one from lingering behind. Dr Solander, in crossing. F .tal tpn'- the mountains of his native land, had learned that '^'"^^ ** ^^^ '^ fatigue and extreme cold frequently produce an irre- sistible desire for sleep, against which he now cautioned his companions, earnestly exhorting them to keep in mo- tion, however painful the effort might be : " Whoever sits down," he warned them, " will sleep, and whoever sleeps will wake no more ! " The doctor was himself the first that was affected with this inclination for repose ; and so powerful was it, that he insisted on being suffered to lie down, and, in spite of every expostulation and entreaty, stretched himself on the snow. Richmond, one of the black servants, had felt the same effects, and began to lag behind, when five of the party were sent forward to light a fire at the first convenient place. Mr Banks, and four others who remained with him, succeeded in drag- ging Solander and the negro almost to the edge of the wood, when both declared they could go no farther. Prayers and remonstrances were equally unavailing ; D owsiness the black, when told that if he did not proceed he ucr. would be frozen to death, answered, that " he desired nothing but to lie down and die ; " while the naturalist expressed himself willing to go on, " but that he must first take some sleep." It being impossible to carry them, they were allowed to recline themselves, partly supported by the bushes, and in a few minutes both were in a profound sleep. Soon afterwards, the welcome mtelligence was received that a flame had been khidkd 2()0 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. IX. about a quarter of a mile in advance. Solander was Rnpideffects ^^^^^ Wakened ; but though he had not slumbered quite of the cold five minutes, he was hardly able to move his limbs, and the muscles of his feet were so shrunk that his shoes fell off ; it was found imjwssible to make the negro stir, and he was left in charge of the other black and one of the seamen. With much difficulty Mr Banks got the doctor to the fire, when b'* despatched two persons for Richmond, but they returned without having been able to find him. The snow again came on, and fell in- cessantly for two hours. About midnight, those at the fire heard a distant shouting, and having proceeded a little way, found the seaman calling for help, and barely able to totter on. Farther off, Richmond was discover- ed standing, but unable to move, and his companion lay on the ground totally insensible. The united efforts oi" the whole party failed to hr'mg them to the fire ; the nij^ht was extremely dark, the snow very deep, and it was with difficulty that they made their way through the bog, — floundering and stumbling among the bushes. An attempt to kindle a flame at the spot was equally unsuccessful, owing to the heavy fall of snow and the quantities of it wliich every blast shook from the trees. /rpiindon- There ^vas no alternative but to cover the unhappy An^canV^'^ Africar>3 with boughs, and resign them to their lot.* * In a narrative of the voyaj^^e, compiled from the paj)ers of one of the drauu^btsinen employed ny Mr Banks, it is s id that the sea- man, " toucl.ied with sympathy for his companions, told the company of the condition in which he left them; and they were disposed to have yielded them assistance, but it being almost dark, there was not any probability of finding' them, and the attempt would have been attended with tiie risque of their own lives; thei/ therefore declined it." — Journal of a Voj'age to the South Seas, faithfully transcribed from the Papers of the late Sydney Parkinson (London, llT'i), p. 10. It will be seen that this statement is directly con- tradicted by that given in the text, on the authority of Sir Joseph Banks and Captain took, which is in every way preferable. Mr Parkinson was not of the party, and could only learn the details by hearsay in the ship ; his papers were never prepared by him for publi- cation ; and the so-called Journal ./as given to the world after his death, not from the original, but from various loose memoranda and fragments. In such a work, it is evident, little faith can be placed. FIRST CIUCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 2(51 * The coltl to which the pnrty had been exposed in these CIIAP. IX. endeavours nearly deprived some of them of sensation, Extrerno and one suffered so severely that it was thought he «ufferinj» would not live to reach the fire. The night was passed in great misery ; and when the morning dawned, the snow-blasts were so strong that it was found impossible to proceed. At six o'clock, they were able to perceive the place of the sun in the heavens ; but, although the clouds became thinner and began to break away, the snow still fell so thick that they could not venture to quit their fire. A party sent out to ascertain the fate of the blacks found them both dead ; a dog which be- Faitiifiiin.sH longed to one of them was sitting close to the corpse of ' **' his master, and it was with difficulty that he was pre- vailed on to forsake it. At eight, a breeze sprung up, the sky became at length clear, and the snow, dropping from the branches in large flakes, was considered a sure sign of an approaching thaw. They began to prepare for their departure, and made a meal on a vulture, which afforded each person about three mouthfuls. At ten they set out ; and, after walking three hours, found \^^^^^ *'^'''* themselves on the beach, at no great distance from the vessel, where their absence during the night had oc- casioned much anxiety.* Oil the 22d, Cook resumed his voyage through the * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. ii. p. 4(5-53. Sydney Parkinson's Junrn., pp. 9, 10. " It is (juite inexplicable to me," says a late author, "how Dr Solander and his [)arty could possibly feel the effects of cold as they did. We are told that he was seized with a torpor, and that two black servants were actually frozen to death, Hsleep;— and yet, here plants Hourisli«d ! — they returned to the vessel with some hundred new specimens! One would suppose that it would be needless to search for plants in a climate so lij^or- niis in its effects. "—Vovage to the Southern Atlantic, in the yuurs l{'28-9-30, in H. M. sloop Chanticleer, by W. H. IJ. Webster, snrfreon (London, 1»34), vol. i. p. 200. iThe p'-nts which were leathered were '■'■ Alftine plants,'' and .Mr Webster's amazement at their "flonrishin{rin a climate so rijjorous in its effects," is scarcely more misplaced than his astonisthment that two negroes should perisli from exposiire on a hillside dnrinj;^ a whole ni^lit to a severe snow- storm, accompanied by a hard frost and a pieicing wind. j^ 262 FIRST CIUCUMNAVIOATION OF COOK. Capu liuru. DNcovnry of Lai(oua CHAP. IX. strait, and, on the fourth day after, passed Cape Horn. pitss!iK«'of 0" ^'*6 1*** "^ March, he was in latitude 38° 44' S., and longitude 110° 33' W. A log of wood floated past the ship, the sea hecanie suddenly smootli, and it was tl»e general opinion tlmt land lay to windward ; hut none was discovered till tiie 4th of April, when an island was seen three or four leagues towards the south. It was little more than a horder of land, broken in several places, and enclosing a large lagoon, the whole having tJie appearance of many islets covered with wood ; above which towered two cocoa-nut trees bearing a great re8eml)lance to flags. Habitations were descried under the shade of some palms, and to the voyagers, " who for a long time had seen nothing but water and sky, except the dreary hills of Tierra del Fuego, these groves seemed a terrestrial paradise." Several natives were perceived on the shore, and appeared to be tall, of a copper colour, and with long black hair ; some of them held in their hands poles upwards of fourteen feet in length. To this spot was given the name of Lagoon Island ;* and Cook was afterwards of opinion that it was the same which Bougainville had visited the pre- ceding year, and called Les Quatre Facardins.t About sunset, the Endeavour was close to a low woody island, of a circulai* form, and not much above a mile in comjjass. It was covered with verdure oF many hues ; but no inhabitants were seen, nor could any cocoa-trees be discerned. It received the appella- tion of Thrum Cap ; and though Cook believed it to be the He des Lanciers of his French predecessor, we have more reason to regard it as a discovery of his own. rhrnm Ci'.p Inland. 4 With a gentle wind and pleasant weather, he pursued ii ' • Cook placed it in latitude 18° 47' S. and loniritude 139° 28' W. Beecliey {rjves for its position lal. 18" 43' !!»' S., and lonjj^. 138" 47' 13" W. The captain attests the accuracy of the description left by its discoverer, and adds, " Two cocoa-nut trees in the centre of the island, which Cook ohserves liad the appearance of flags, are still waving." — Voyage to tlie Pucific, vol i. p. 208. f See above, p. 218. J See above, p. 2VJ. FIRST CIIICUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 2(U his course to the westward, and on the afternoon of the chap. ix. next day aj)proaehed a lund of much hirger extent than n„w T^mi, that previously visited. Several of the gentlemen re- oriioiicu niainc'd at the mast-head the whole evening, admiring '"'"" its singular shape, which was that of a bow, " the arch and cord of which were land, and the space between theni water ; the cord was a flat beach, ^vithout any signs of vegetation, having notl.ing upon it but heaps of sea-weed ; the horns or extremities of the bow were two large tufts of cocoa-nut trees, and much the greater part of the arch was covered with trees of different height, figure, and hue."* It was designated IJovv Island, and is evidently the same with Bougainville's lie do la Ilarpe, called by the natives Ile-ow ; the cir- cumference was estimated at ten or twelve leagues ; while smoke ascending from different parts showed that it was inhabited. About noon of the 6th, land was again seen to the Blni ibiuu i, westward, and proved to be two islands, or ratlu". clusters, covered with trees of various kinds. Many ratives and canoes were observed, and the place received tlie nome of The Groups. At daybreak of the Tth, another was descried and called Bird Island, from the number of fowls which frequented its shores. It was thought to be not less than four miles round, had a Ingoon in the centre, was partially wooded, and " looked green and pleasant, but we saw neither cocoa-trees nor inhabiUints." About sunset of the succeeding day, the Endeavour was abreast of a double range of low and wooded islets, connected by reefs so as to form one island of an oval form, with a lake in the njiddle. From the appearance of the border, it received the appellation of Chain Island ; its length seemed to be about five leagues, its breadth nearly as many miles ; sc ne of the trees were of a large size, and columns of smoke were seen to rise from sundry places. The night of the 9th was stormy, with thunder and Clinln IsLuiUs. • Ilawkesworth's Coll.} vol. ii, p. 75. I 264 FIRST CIPCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. A' CHAT. IX. Osnalinrg or Maitea Island. Rules for in- tercouiso witi: tliu natives. Int'^rvlcw wifli tv,o cl'icid. » i rain, and a haze enveloped the voyagers till the next niorning was far advanced, vvJien the weather having cleared up, they discovered Osnaburg or Maitea Island. About noon the hi,t,'-h mountains of Otaheite wore faintly discerned ; hut calms and light winds so long delayed the approach of the vessel, that she did not anchor in Matavai Bay (the Port Royal of its discoverer) before the morning of the 13th. The islanders in their canoes immediately surrounded the ship, exchanging fruits and fish for heads and otiier trifles. A set of rules to be observed in conducting a regular +rade, and for the maintenance of a good under- standing with the inhabitants, was now communicated to the crew by Cook, who afterwards went on shore witli Messrs Bardcs and Solander, and a party of men under arms. They were received by the assembled hundreds with the greatest humility, — the first vv'ho approached orouchinu- till he almost crept upon his hands and knees, Avhile he presented a green branch, — an emblem of peace borne by .ach of his countrymen, — and which was accepted with marks of satisfaction. A short march brought the English to the spot where the Dolphin had formerly watered. The natives halted here, cleared away the plants, threw down their boughs, and made a signal that the strangers should follow their e>:.im]de. 'J'his ceremony, it was conjectured, not only implied a treaty of fricmlsliip, but was preparatory to the cession of the watering-place. Cook, however, did not tliink it suitai)le for his purpose ; and the people whom he had as yet seen not being of the highest class, he resolved, after perambulating the adjoining country, to endeavour the next day to meet with some of the chiefs. Two of these anticipated his wishes by paying a visit eaily in the morning, and inviting him to their resif^ences, where he was received with much courtesy. In a short time, however, two of the English had the mortification to find that their pockets had been picked of a snuff-l.ox and an opera-glass in a shngreen case. The announcement of this depredation produced a panic ii FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. among the natives, and the chief offerrd a large quantity ciiAr. IX. of cloth as a conn)ensition ; hut on tliig heing refusid _ ~~ he set off, and eventually succeeded in recovering the ot stohn lost articles. '""l'^''^' A theft much more distressing in its conscqn.cnccs iiicft ofa was committed on the ].5t]i, at tlie tent i)itciied on t'.ie '■^'"i;"';^''* i musket. site of the fortress which it was designed to erect, partly for defence and partly for astronomical purposes. One of the savages, watching an oppoi'tunity, Miatched and carried o'F a S'Mitincl's musket ; u})()n which (in the ahsence of Cook) the officer on duty, a. young mi(lslii[i- man, ordered the marines to fire, hut fortunately widi- ont effect, among a crowd of the natives, amounting to more than 100. The culprit was then pursued and shot dead. Having reprehended the conduct of the ofheer as equally harharous and impolitic, the commander took measures for the restoration of harmony, and in a bhort time peace was re-estahlished and traffic resumed. Hitherto the tender-hearted princess, who made so T^'f^ Pi""'^'tss distinguished a figure in the account of Wallis' voyage, had not heen seen. She was at last recognised, ai)par- ently denuded of all authority, sitting with great com- posure among a numher of women, and althougli she had now lost many of her ])ersonal attractions, she became an object of great attention. Her name was ascertained to be Oberea, and she was the mother of the heir-apparent to the sovereignty, Terridiri, a boy about seven years of age. Among the presents made to hei was a child's doll, which threw her into raptures, and prove 1 such a source of envy to Tootahah, the uncle of the prince, and regent of the kingdom, that it became necessary to propitiate him by a similar compliment. On the 1st of May, the observatory was set up, and Constm-M n ' ot the the astronomical instruments taken on shore. To the ouuv.iu'iy. great surprise and anxiety of every one, the next morn- ing, the quadrant was nowhere to l)e found. It was at first suspected that some of the ship's company, ignoiant of the real contents, bad abstracted tiie box hi which it was packed ; but nothing occurring to corroborate this (! 'i *l > { I I [! I 2 i 1 1 ■■Hainii , ^ _» .».-*.-. ,^.'JW^".«» .»»^-)»»V|V*-'"»^»**'"' I ■!'«<•■"'■* iP*" ■ 266 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 4 t ppcovery of the Ins'.nimcnt. K.tivo pvo' nunciutiun, CTTAr. fX. opinion, a search among the natives was undertaken by Mr Banks, with the assistance of a chief, Tubourai Ta- niaidc, who had some knowledge of the route taken by the culprit. They fortunately succeeded in recovt ring the instrument so essential to the main object of the voyage ; but, in the absence of Cook, l\)otahah had J)ccn seized, to the great terror of the islanders, who never doubted that he would be put to death as a p ui- ishment for the theft. He himself had the same p.a*- suasiontill the very moment when he was set at liiierty — an event which gave boundless joy to the people, who Hocked round and embraced him as a father. On the 10th, the voyagers discovered the native de- signation of the island to be Otaheite ; and were, at the same time, much amused by the attempts of the inhab- itants to pronounce the names of their visiters : Cook became Toote ; Solander was changed into Torano ; Banks assumed the form of Tapane or Opaiie ; " Moli- neux they renounced in absolute despair, and called the master Boha^ from his Christian name Robert." * As the day of the predicted transit c rew near, it was resolved to send t "o parties to observe at distant situa- tions, in order to lessen the chance of failure from a clouded atmosphere ; and, on the 1st June, Mr Banks, with a few attendants, proceeded to the island of Eimeo, about twelve miles west from Otaheite ; while, on the morrow, Mr Hicks, with some others, sailed in the pinnace to fix on some spot to the eastward of Matavai Bay. At Eimeo, the evening preceding the important phe- nomenon was beautiful ; but the solicitude of the party did not allow them to take much rest during the night ; " one or other of them was up every half hour, who satisfied the impatience of the rest by reporting the changes of the sky , now encouraging their hope by telling them that it was clear, and now alarming their fears l)y an account that it was hazy." They were on foot Cbscnin paiaca. * ILiwkesworth's Coll., vol. ii. p. 12H. Parkinson's .riMirnal, p. 05. K'l'!H;5..N;:il[T:r]Hy'VENU;:i iio I. 'a -i i K 'im M ^ I * i ! \ n \ \ \ i i 1 1 r^'c :iimL% of vm ii-'!['ri ,; (nmi 03 f IL- )!!' xy A. T'lO^i :; :jr i^ii '? TEi- !-^::ilT ;m:*' VENH. "31 C c (JrmJit^ ^JafKLnJ'//^9 fiar/i i rlf < "^ /. « > o f^ "X /... . 40 f •■• ^i. tA^ena '/ i' 1^. 1 Z//' r / t* ^ieurx. /- /S--/ /■n^ C: t/'^ 5- i. F s 5B- 10 c / tynMynai i ^f^ /air py /h L:-> % C.AI /^-Z- erf /^ Q/siA^ A/A/P^-^ /l • tit t P^ ^0-. 10 ^ 'm/7i^^ ? 2.-~Cp \it o ) M. /* y/eeri. tf^c&u: &<■£&* //7 '•'/7 TftO il-itxt // rucffi iira./llJ t^x^ •/fris i„ir-l off/ie.ifS irarif)ri;( 3~ y (''V .<) /%^ t/'jf-^rvi^rrt ihf ^"A /A yL» A '' /lA-tO^^ /ts ^C<_, •^N / ? ) fi cyfhj^ >f a n i) /£, /> /Ac>- / y> cr' t^.x^-C) '■f rho f-A' fi// /^''■' yf^^-^ Cef-tl£^ ^i e-/^ /-e. ^ ( id fv a y '"''V. ;»•■ <• y*. / <;)^ f^'*-*- ^/ ^^ ^ •^* <^n J^ a //iy^/ 7 H H /rt-V^i o Urht (T^ *f(Zn.it-fn.syit '1^a.r i'l'/ii/jt O w^f^J^ y. <p- MtJ/^) hoU '/rdut/t^- Clri^ il^i:7/tr-M.r-'d ■:^ tht^ ^/7 ^ a^ f tu e^-£u: ^ /^ /^ « / / Y / u/'/l\ f H <k / 'J ^f*^<^LM,rvc^ ^ (y^ c:-t2. ^^^-^^") RN^KAVeTl ruH vu|i:«iartt«IN»t i'^WlMM L!I*H4RV —■Br i i 'i ftr-«-..-i«Kfc)3 ..,^-y i l lJ W I FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. l(\7 by dayhrcak, and saw tlie sun riso from the soa without ciiAP. IX. a cloud. E(|ual success attended the persons sent to the „ :, east end ot tlie island ; while " at the luit, says Cook, state of tiio " there not beini,^ a vapour in tlie sky from the risinj^ atino>i)licie. to the settinn; of the sun, the whole passage of Venus over the sun's disk was observed with great advantage by Mr Green, Dr Solander, and myself." An atmo- sphere or dusky haze, which surrounded the body of the planet, rendered it difficult to fix the precise times of contact, and the observations made by different per- ohso ■■viitim'? sons varied considerably. According to Mr Green, oi .Mr. Gicci). h. ' " Tlio first external contact, or fust appearance of Venus on the Sun, was The first internal contact or total immersion was Tlie second internal contact, or bej^inninjr of the emersion, was .... The second external contact, or total emersion, The latitude of the observatory was ascertained to be 17° 20' 35" S., and the longitude 149° 82' 30" W. of Greenwich.* 25 42 y 44 4 :i 14 8 3 32 10 * Ilawkoswortli's Coll., vol, ii. p. 141. Part of tlie orig^inal ma- nuscript of Cook's oiiservations has lieeii preserved, and an eiij^'raved fac-siniile of tliis interestiii«r relic has heen procured for the present work. The result is thus given in the Philosophical Transactions, vol. Ixi. part ii. p. 410: — Time p- clock- *♦* '>! 'iO ' '^''^ ^^^^ visible appearance of 9 on the 0's limb, ' ( see li<;-. 1. ..,j Q/j ( First internal contact, or the limb of 9 seemed to ( coincide with the • 's, fij^. 2. i A small thread of light seen below the pennmbra, i fig. ;{. , Second internal contact ot the penumbra, or the thread I of light wholly broke, Conk's ori^'iiiiil notes. 40 20 3 10 15 10 47 i S'^^'f'^'l internal contact of the bodies, and appeared *" ' ( as in the first. 27 24 Second external contact of the bodies. 28 04 Total egress of penumbra, dubious. Tiie part of the MS. missing, seems to have ccmtained the times of tiie second contacts, and the first draught of some general ob servations printed in the I-iiil. Ttans,, as cited above, and ending nearly as in the engraving: — " The breadth of the penumbra ap- pi'Lued to me to be nearly equal to ^tli of Venus' semidiaraeter." , / 'H I'on CHAP. IX. General anxiety anionK scicn- tilic uii.n. At i:iln- Lurgii. FIRST CIRCU3INAVIGATI0N OF COOK. In other parts of the world, the approach of the phe- nomenon was watched with eriiial anxiety, A transient obscurity in the heavens and a gentle shower were more appalling on that forenoon than a hurricane on another day. In some jdaces philosophers had to deplore an evenii j; black with thunder-clouds and heavy rain ; while in others the storm was over and the sky clear he- fore tlie hour for observation arrived.* At Edinl)urgh, Lord Alemoor, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, considered himself to be peculiarly favoured. " The morning," f-ays one of his party, " promised ill. About noon the day was terrible, with thick clouds, and like settled rain. You mav imagine how we felt ! About two o'clock the wind began to change from the south to the westward ; about three it was west, and the clouds breaking. There was about four a very hard thunder-shower, and calm ; after which the wind began to blow briskly from the north-west ; the clouds blown away, and those mar the horizon depressed and held down ; the sun shone clearer than I ever saw it, and not a cloud was to be seen in that quarter. It remained so till after both contacts, when, not half a minute af- * In the lapse of eight years several clianges had occurred, and the list of tlfi'se wlio <.I)-ervo(l this plienonienon is considerahly diH'erent from the catalogue oiven in pa^es 'Jf)!, 2r)2. Lord Mac- ciestiehl, Messis Iloriisbv aiul Hartlett, observed at Shirhurn Castle; Alessrs Horsley, Cyril Jackson, Lucas, Syl<es, and Sluick- hnr^h, at O.xibni ; Dr Bevis at Kew; Canton at i^nittal Scjuare; Harris, of tlie Mathematical Scliool in Christ's lIos[)ital, at Wind- sor Castle ; Ludluui at Leicester ; Francis Wollaston at East Dere- ham, in Norfolk ; Drs Wilson, Irvine, and Heid, at Glasgow; Lord Alemoor and Dr Lind at Ilawkhill, near Edinhurj^h ; Rev. Mr Bryce at Kirknowton ; Mason at ('avan, in Ireland; Messier, Du Sejiuir, Cassini, De Fonchj', Bailiv, IJe Borj, Maraldi, Le Alon- nier, Fouguere, the Duke de Chaulnes. and others in various parts of France ; Lieutenant Jardine at Gibraltar; Ferner at Stockholm ; h'ather Hell at Wardhuus; Mallet at I'onoi, in Lapland; Ru- monsky at Kola; Rayley at tlie North (ape; Wales and Dyniond at Piince of Wales' Fort, dson's Bay ; Wright near Quebec ; Leeds in the province of Mar\ <\ ; Sniil h, Ritterhouse, and others, at Norriton. Pennsylvania; Fid. , ('■ at Cape Francis, St Domingo* Chappe in ("alifbrnia ; Mohr at Batavia ; Degloss at Dinapoor, and Rose at Phesabad, in the East Indies; Dr Solander, Mr Green, aiul Captain Cook, at Otaheite. .1 I'; ll FIRST CIRCIMNAVIGATIO.N OF COOK. im %f tenvards, small flyinj? clouds passed over tlie sun ! " * CHAr. ix. The intercbt with which the unlearned watched the pnpula7 event, appears to have heen almost equal to that of the inti;>est at individuals who more fully understood its importance. At Glasgow, " it was apprehended that the smoke of the town might hurt the observations; and, to prevent this as much as j)ossible, an advertisement was put in the newspaper, hcgging the inhabitants, in cases where it would nut be very inconvenient, to put out their fires from three o'clock that afternoon till sunsetting." This request was cheerlully complied with, " insomuch that there was not a sjjiiu of smoke to be perceived in th.vt quarter from which the observations could be incom- moded." t At Philadelphia, Dr Smith was attended At Philacki- by a great concourse of people, and afraid that the curio- ^' '""" sity natural on such occasions might interrupt the ob- servations, he informed them that success depended on there not being the least noise till the contacts were over. " And," says the doctor, " during the twelve minutes that ensued before the first contact, there could not have been a more solemn pause of expectation and silence, if each individual had stood ready to receive the sentence that was to give him life or death." % On the whole, the numerous observations were satis- factory, and the results deduced from them scarcely differed more than the quarter of a second in the sun's l)arallax, which they determined to be 8.6". 'J'his agrees with the calculations of La Place, deduced from the lunar equation in longitude ; but Professor Bessel having combined and recomputed the original observa- tions, has recently introduced a small correction, which makes the parallax to be only 8.676", and consequently the mean distance of the sun 95,168,440 English miles ; while, according to the calculations of Encke, the paiallax is 8.5770", and the distance of the sun i)5,l 30,040 miles. During Cook's observations on the transit at Otaheite, * riiil. Tran?., vol. lix. p. 340. f Ibid. p. 334. J Ibid. p. 3l;y. Patisfactciy iLSUitS. I ( ? J'sl t "270 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COoK. CHAP. IX. some of the crew broke into a, storeroom and abstractiMl a T. ~\. hunilreilwei^lit of spike-nails, — a tlicft of a serious oiUiccicw. nature, as '', coukl not fail j^reatly to ucprociate tiie value of the coin circulated anion^ the natives. One of the depredators was detected with ])art of the stolen goods in his possession, and punishetl with two dozen lashes ; but he refusi-d to impeach his accon)plices. jMonikiy, the oth of June, was celebrated as the anniver- sary of liis majesty's ])iith, and several of the chiefs drank to the health of Klhhuujo^ as they pronounced King George. Circumnnvi- ^^ ^^^'^ 2()th, Cook, accompanied by Mr Banks, set ptioiioithc out to circunmavigate the island, and that day visited the harbour in which Bougainville had lain, where they saw the chief Ereti or Oretti, mentioned by the French navigator, and were informed that Aotourou was his brother. At night they reached the isthmus which joins the two peninsulas of Otaheite, — the lesser of which, it was acertained, bore the appellation of Tiaira- bou or Otaheite Etc, and had a chief designated Waheatua for its ruler ; while the other, called Opoureonu or Otaheite Nuc, was governed ))y a youth named Ootoo or Outou, the nephew of the regent Tootaliah, and Oamo, the husband of Oberea. They completed the circuit of the whole on the 1st of Julv, and estimated its circumference at about thirty leagues. Soon afterwards, they began to dismantle their fort, on which they had bestowed the name of Venus, and to make preparations for their departure. On this occasion, we discover for the first time an instance of that fasci- nation which this lovely island, its gentle people, and their manner of life, have so often exerted over the rude hearts of uncultivated men. Two of the marines stole from the fort on the night of the 8th of July, and, as was gathered from the natives, had taken refuge in the mountains, with the intention of remaining in the country, where they had attached themselves to wives. Cook resolved to recover them, but was loath to termin- ate, by any rigorous measures, the harmony which I'rop.iriitioiis for departure. niiST CinClI.MNAVinATION OP COOK. £71 subsisted hctwceii him and the iHlMiilcrs. Ho was com- chap. IX. pelk'd, however, to dctiuu several chiefs, ftmont? wliom t), "." was I ootahah, till the deserters should he brought hack, itciuiincii. (iineral alarm was the cousequciice ; and in retaliation two petty oflicers were seized, along with the arms of two more ; hut (|ulct was at last restored through the intervention of Tootahah, who gave efi'eetual orders for the delivery of the fugitives. On the 12th, a native of the name of Tupia, a priest T„pi,ia who had l)een hrst minister to Ohcrca when in the "aiivc iikst. height of her power, came on hoard accompanied by a hoy, who was his servant, and rcffuested leave to sail with the voyagers, — a wish which was at once complied with. " To have such a person on board," says the lieutenant, " was certainly desirable for many reasons ; by learning his language, and teaching him ours, we should be able to acquire a much better knowledge of the customs, policy, and religion of the pco])le, than our short stay amongst them could give us." Early on the succeeding morning, the ship was crowded with chiefs, while the sea around was thronged with the canoes of the inferior classes. About noon, the anchor was rin-ewdior weighed, and the vessel getting under sail, the natives *'"-' ''*^""^i^''3- on board took their leave, " and wept with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something very striking and tender ; the people in the canoes, on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in the loudness of their lamentations, which we considered rather as affectation than grief." * In this scene Tupia evinced great firm- ness ; he could not indeed restrain his tears, but ho struggled to conceal them, and having sent his last present on shore, climbed to the mast-head, where he continued to make signals, till the winds had wafted him awav from the friends he was never again to behold. Cowk first directed his course to a small island called Tetliuroa, about eight leagues to the north of Otaheite ; and .11 tlie 14th he passed two others, Eimeo and Ta- r \\ \ (- « lIa\vkes\vorth'.s Cull., vol. ii. p. 181. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ 4^ 1.0 [|_U_ 11.25 IfilM 125 ■JO ^^~ MH m lU |A0 InHSBBE U III 1.6 -B* .^ ^^ r 4W .1 ^:^* ■^ '/ # Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) t72-4S03 '^ .^\ t^^ ^ 272 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIOATION OP COOK. Islands discovered. Iluahcine. CHAP. IX. buaemanu, assigned by Wallis to the honour of the Duke of York and Sir Charles Saunders. The 16th was hazy, with light and changeable winds, and little way was made ; Tupia frequently prayed to his god Taiie for a favourable gale ; and as he never began his address till he perceived that a breeze was close at hand, he was enabled to boast of his influence with his deity. At length a gentle wind sprang up, and, on the morning of the 16th, the voyagers were close to an island named Huaheine, about seven leagues in compass, and with a hilly and uneven surface. Several canoes came off, and in one of them was Oree, the sovereign, who, with fre- quent expressions of astonishment and wonder, ventured on board ; and, as a proof of amity, exchanged names with the chief officer, from whom he received several presents, among which was a small plate of pewter, with the inscription, " H is Britannic Majesty's Ship Endea- vour, Lieutenant Cook, Commander, 16th July 1769. Huaheine." Two or three days were passed at this island, the inhabitants of which, though rather stouter and of larger make, in other respects very closely resembled the Otaheitans. A sail of a few hours brought the navigators to Ulietca or Raiatea, which was observed to be enclosed within the same reef that surrounded Otaha, and several lesser islets. A small low island seen to the north, was by the natives called Tubal, and contained only three families. Sailing a short distance to the north-west- ward, on the 29th, tliey were close under the high and craggy Peak of Bulabola or Borabora ; but, finding the land inaccessible at that part, they stood off to weather the south end. The next morning, they got sight of the small island Maurua, and afterwards anchored on the w^est side of Ulietea, for the purpose of stopping a leak in the powder-room and taking in more ballast. The lieutenant embraced the opportunity of waiting on Opoony, the warlike sovereign of Bolabola, who had conquered this and some of the neighbouring countries. I'rom the reports of his achievements and the teiTor in Xlalatca. Opoony, Rovereiijn of Lulabola. FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 273 whicli he was held, th? English expected to behold a CHAP. IX. formidable personage ; but there appeared before them 71,^ society a poor weak creature, infirm, decrepit, and sluggii^h, LJouds. half blind from age, and wholly stupid. To the six islands now visited, Ulietea, Otaha, Bolubola, Httaheine, Tubal, and Maurua, with their dependent islets, Cook gave the mime of The Society Islands, by which they are still distinguished. They lie between 16° 10' and 16° 55' S. latitude, and 160° 67' and 162° W. longitude. Oheteroa, considerably to the south or south-west, was OIicti.3 oa. reached on the 13th August. The natives, s])lendidly dressed in coloured cloths and feathers, stood on the shore with long lances and clubs, ready to oppose a landing. Attempts to conciliate them were fruitless ; and the commanding officer having sttisiied himself that no safe anchorage could be found, determined to continue his course *o the southward. On the 25th, the voyagei-s celebrated the anniversary of their de- parture from England, " by taking a Cheshire cheese from a locker, where it had been carefully treasured up for this occasion, and tapping a cask of porter, which proved to be very good, and in excellent order." * On the 29th, they saw the remarkable comet of 1769 ; and f^i"^ct cf Tupia, on observing it, exclaimed that as soon as it should be seen by the people of Bolabola, they would make war on those of Ulietea, and drive them to the mountains. The Endeavour was in latitude 40° 22' S., and longitude 174° 29' W., on the 1st of September, with a heavy sea from the westward, and no signs of land. She then stood northward, and on the 24th, a piece of seaweed and a bit of wood were observed in '"'I'cntions latitude 33° 18' S., and longitude 162° 61' W. A seal " "^ was seen asleep in the water on the 27th, and three days after innumerable flocks of birds were met with. On the 6th, it was thought that there was a change in the colour of the wator ; and at last, on the 6th, land was seen from the masthead ; in the evening, it could 1 • Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. II. j). 281 ; 274 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. CHAP. IX. be descried from the deck, and appeared to be of great extent* Arrivni at As the voyagers slowly approached on the succeed- Kcw Zcuiund j^g Jay, its dimensions still increased as it was more distinctly seen. Four or five ranges of hills were dis- cerned rising one above another, while, far inland, a \ chain of mountains of vast height towered high over all. Speculation was busy in conjectures on this great country, and the general opinion on board was, that the Terra Austbalis Incognita was at length dis- covered. As they drew nearer, tliey could see that the hills were clothed with wood, and that the valleys sheltered some gigantic trees ; canoes were perceived crossing a narrow bay ; houses, small but neatly built, were descried ; beside one of them a crowd of people were sitting on the beach ; and much curiosity was excited by t high and regular paling which appeared to enclose the summit of a hill. In the evening. Cook, Banks, and Solander, went ashore with a party, and endeavoured to open a friendly communication with the islanders, but were obliged to shoot one of them in self-defence. On examining his dress, it was found to answer the representation given in an account of Tas- man's Voyage ; and, indeed, our navigatora were now on the New Zealand of that discoverer,* but on the opposite coast to that which he had visited. On the morning of the next day, the 9th, the lieu- tenant again rowed to the beach, and found about fifty of the natives waiting his landing. They started from the ground, and brandished long pikes and short stone weapons ; nor did they desist from defiance although addressed by Tupia in the Otaheitan tongue, until they saw the effect of a musket in striking the water at a distance. As soon as the marines were brought up, the English approached the savages, when their interpreter again spoke to them, " and it was with great pleasure," sjiys Cook, " that we perceived he was perfectly under- Inton'icw with ilic I'utives Sec ubijve, p. 124. FIUST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 275 stood." They expressed their willingness to trade for chap. ix. provisions and M'ater, and desired tlie strangers to cross Hostlio" the river which flowed between ; but they would not atiitiuio lay down their arms, and Tupia saw good reason for zUkiiaci^ advising his friends to be prepared for hostility. The islanders being in turn invited over, first one, then two and, soon after, twenty or thirty, almost all armed, r swam across. They attempted to seize the weapons of the discoverers, and, though assured of death if they persisted, one of tliera snatched a hanger, with which he ran off, waving it round his head in exultation. The rest now grew more insolent, and others were observed coming from the opposite bank to their assistance. It was judged necessary to take some measures to repress nicirrcfisat them, and Mr Banks accordingly fired at the thief, who was wounded, but still retreated, though more slowly, flourishing the cutlass as before, '"r Monkhouse took a more fatal aim, and the savage opped ; upon which the main body, who had previously retired a little, began to advance ; three pieces, loaded only v/ith small- shot, were therefore discharged, when they again fell back, and went slowly up the country, — some of them evidently wounded. Cook, intent on establishing an amicable intercourse I'nsncccssfni with these intractable barbarians, determined to make an\^c"f,|p"^ some of them prisoners, and to treat them with kind- inteicguiso. ness in the hope of inspiring general confidence. Two canoes were soon after observed coming in from sea, a !d boats were despatched to intercept them ; but they endeavoured to escape, regardless of the fair promises shouted after them by Tupia. A musket was then fired over their heads, in the hope that " it would eithi r make them surrender or leap into the water;" but thry stripped for the combat, and assailed their pursuers so vigorously with stones and other missiles, that t' ^ English were obliged to fire. Their discharge killed four men ; while the rest of the crew, consisting of three boys, one of whom offered a stout resist ince, were made ' captives. Justice to the memory of Cook requires us «■ 276 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. IX. to give a place to his own remarks on this most un- Benovoient fortunate incident : — " I am conscious," he says, " that rcflf-ctions of the feeling of every reader of humanity will censure me for having fired upon these unhappy people ; and it is impossible that, upon a calm review, I should ap- prove it m^'self. They certainly did not deserve death % for not choosing to confine in my promises, or not consenting to come on board my boat, even if they had apprehended no danger ; hut the nature of my service required me to obtain a knowledge of their country, which I could no otherwise effect than by forcing my way into it in a hosale manner, or gaining admis^sion through the confidence and good-will of the people. I had already tried the power of presents without effect ; and I was now prompted, by my desire to avoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as the only method left of convincing them that we intended them no harm, and had it in our power to contribute to their gratification and convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal ; and though in the contest, wliich I had not the least reason to expect, our victory might have been complete without so great an e:rpcnse of life, yet, in such situations, when the comnvmd to fire has been given, no man can restrain its excess, or prescribe its effect."* On being brought into the boat, the prisonere, who had squatted down in expectation of death, were clothed and amply fed. They soon became quite cheerful, and asked questions with every appearance of pleasure and curiosity ; but when night came on their spirits failed them, and they sighed often and loudly. When pacified in some measure by Tupia, they began to sing a slow mournful song to an air much resembling a ])salm-tune. Daylight, however, and another copious meal roused them to cheerfulness ; they were dressed and decorated, and fell into transports of joy when a.siured that they would be restored to their friends. B'linvionr of tliu captives. Hawkpswortli's Coll., vol. ii. p. 200. k ""flW*- mmm w^ yj ll U P ^n iip iw rf . ' — . w wi wjf i w:.' I' e )t n 3 "^ Hi: S' »r i ». , n n '^* ¥ ii?^ 2/6 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. CHAP. IX to pive reHfctions of tlie fee me tor it is io prove i % for noi consenl ftppreln require \vhicli \\'ny in throng! had all mid I A hostilit mcthoi no har: gratific certain which might ■u^!,■" he s. B hnvionr of tlie capUvea. of life., fire ha proscri On had sq and a: and at and ci failed pacific a slov psjilm- meal i and d ttssureu . ..;■ humanity will eev^ire , the«j unhiip}ty peo])Ie ; «»vl ■:, {.■>n a <'«lmrovn>\v, I bIh-u!'! >; - Fhoy cf i-*innly did noMii'wrve d..*:'* 'i»Hif.'^ to cdiifi.le in my |iromisfSj or •'•''t >g to omn* on h-- .j-d my boat, eVvu if tltiy li-ttl idc'i Jio i\f,wi(fr ; Imt the nature of my ^o^vi^.*• ini' to oiUftiii n ki!owkd.^e of their counir^, could no olliorvvifit <fff<"t that} l>v t'orciii..' t"v' I it in a l;0'^il« ii^aoMi r, or ^iuiuuig .'uliiMs.u a the c'onfuienuc find gund-vvin of the p'iH>plf, i uly picil thf po»M'r of prijseaUj without i^lV.^'t^ ;s i;ow prompb'd, hy my deijiiv to avoid furvlirr * ^ ■' •: ■ ' '.i»fd, ai ihc oi ly ii:tiJi JoJ :!:'j'.n •utfil'Ute 10 tlifir .« •« my ii.tcuiioDS '••.»gii HI ilu.! wmtcst.' ,. w .< I .; ■• H : ■.' II mj ixp<tt, <jur victoiy \\iit hvi ;i coiufd«tL: withoiit hj gnat an cxp-.MHo /et, in Siifh hituaLiuus, wiion Lht; couini.tiu! to 'teen e"iven, no laan c-an robtnln Ma txcesd, •.^r jt.staV.ct."* • hrun,:;ht into f.he hoat, the p-riboru-rs, who IdcwiJ • ;.'itu »i *.f Je.'itli, wv-ri' cUfthoJ ^*-^.- ti b(.*3ft;ne quitii cKcerfnl, *"i fipp.rtraric.e of plc;wuve rM?,y ; iiut ^'«vcf., ^..>{jfeit r^mi- i>n their i^pirits V in, and t!>fv -ipfi^'ii *"U'n niid loudly. VV'hcn ii^. =.ome nie»i*«ure hy 'I'upia, they ho^ai t6 siii:;; uvuiTnt'il ymg tu ;in air miuh rt-.suuiiiing a 'U\ Unylight* however, and anotlitr copious ,si'd them to cheeifuineK? ; they wci-o dres^'d ■ ivatcd, and fell int;) traa.si)o;-ts of jwy when -. ,• ..,- ".T|^ -.,1, i' ',.' r,.-. • Hawke.swortli's Coll., vol. ii. p. 200. K 1/ 2 3 S- O I: =8 I I 9 I'lii 'ill3illl'"v "■' ^iii^^:piiiv:;!i:i'i;;''W|i| M\f ' ■.:..V:r| i H HHIi. BHBHI'^"^ H^BI :i 1^ Iiii '' ill ' :;i H . It ' l1 l'' ,.'1''' „:. "'ill i'i ''' !l ' i IM m jl ,ilil ■ s /'^^vH 1 u^^BSI^^^^^^p ^^HHJill^^^^^l^^BI^^^^^^^^^^^^^K If]'* 11 IjUI li « ,11 -•' '^^■;''!p !'^^'o ' i* 1 - :i^ ■^"^;7 wm f 1/ 1 -^ i 1 iil"^^HHI ' II 1 i ^r- -*»» ■■ ''■* II .♦> :' * h V t- i'^- »■" •■#»■ I FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 27U Being at first unwillingly put ashore on a point of the chap ix. coast which they said belonged to their enemies, who Landinffof would certainly kill and eat them, they had soon after- th« captiTviL wards to seek protection in the boat. When landed a second time, they waded into the water, and earnestly re- quested to be again taken on board ; but the sailors had positive orders to leave them, and they were in a short time seen to join some of their associates. To the bay in which these transactions took place Cook gave the appellation of Poverty, — because nothing but wood could be obtained : according to his calculation, it was in lat. 38° 42' S. and long. 181° 36' W. Leaving it on the 11th of October, he sailed south- cape Turn- ward along the shore for six days, till he reached, '^n^^^ in lat. 40° 34' S., a high bluff head with cliffs of a yellow tint, on whhh he bestowed the name of Cape Tumagain. Finding no suitable harbour, and perceiv- ing that the country manifestly altered for the worse, he changed his course to the northward, and in two days passed the spot where he first made the coast. Still pursuing its windings, on the 30th he doubled a high promontory of white rocks, which, from its position, he called East Cape. He now found the land trending i:.,st Cii] e in a north-westerly direction ; and, as he ran along it, observed increasing signs of cultivation and fertility. The next day a number of skiffs came off crowded with warriors, who flourished their arms and uttered loud shouts of defiance, frequently repeating Uaromaiy harO' mai, harre uta a patoo-patoo oge ! " Come to us, come on shore, we will kill you all with our patoo-patoos [stone hatchets] !'* In the flotilla was a canoe, by far the largest which had yet been seen, having no fewer Wui Canoe. than sixteen paddles on each side, and containing in all about sixty men. It was making directly for the ship, when a gun, loaded with grape, was fired ahead of it ; this caused the rowers to stop, and a round shot, which was fired over them, falling in the water, filled them with such terror that " they seized their paddles and made towards the shore so precipitately that they seemed s I 280 FTR8T CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. CHAP. IX. scarcely to allow themselves time to breathe." The Cape *P*^* where this took place wns named Cape Runaway ; KuoAway. and a creek, in which the Endeavour anchored three days after, was called Mercury Bay, from an observation of the transit of that planet here made. This harbour lay In latitude 36° 47' S., longitude 184" 4' W. ; and Cook did not quit it before the 16th of November, after taking formal possession in the name of his sovereign, and recording upon a tree the date of his visit to the country. Cape Brett The coast still trended north-westward, and as he sailed along, he kept as close to it as was consistent with safety. On the 26th, he passed a remarkable point, which he named Cape Brett, and three days after, anchored in a creek lying to the west of that promontory, which received the title of the Bay of Islands. He did not leave it till the 6th of December ; and passing, on the third day, a harbour on which he bestowed the appellation of Doubtless, he was informed by the natives, through the medium of Tupia, that, ** at the distance of three days' rowing in their canoes, the land would take a short turn to the southward, and from thence extend no more to the west." The same tribe also said that there was to the north-west a large country, called Ulimaroa,* to which some people had once saUed in a very large canoe, and found that its inhabitants eat hogs. On the I7th, after encountering much adverse weather. Cook made the North Cape, northern extremity of the island, which he named North Cape, in latitude 34° 22' S. and longitude 186° 66' W.+ He stood o£r and on this promontory till the 24th, when he discovered the Three Kings* Islands of Tasman ; and. I ' ^■ * *^ Ulimaraa — qu*il faut lire sans doute Oudi-Mara^ peuple d*un lieu expose i lachaleur dii soleil." — Voya^ autour du Monde, par M. J. Dumont D'Urville (8vo, Paris, 1832), tome ii. p. 291. f Another European vessel was at this time off the coast of New Zealand,— that of M. de Surviile (see above, n. 236). The Doubt- less^ Bay of Cook seems to be the same with tluit which the French navigator, in honour of Law the celebrated projector, designated Lauriston. FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 281 on the SOth, perceived the Cape Maria Van Diemcn of ciur. ix. the same navigator, — the north-western point of the^ "jj^^^i country. Two remarkable circumstances are recorded V'lin Dieni.tn. by Cook as occurring while he sailed round the ex- tremity of New Zealand, namely, that in latitude 85'' south, in tlie midst of summer, there was a gale of wind, such as, for strength and continuance, he had scarcely ever experienced before ; and that five weeks were spent in getting fifty leagues to the westward, — no less than three of them in making only ten. Happily, during the storm, hi«> ehh^ was far from land, — " otherwise," he says, " it is higl.'y probable that we should never have returned to relate our adventures." From Cape Marie, the coast was found to stretch Motmt nearly south-east by south, and to present every where •^^K"*""*- a barren shore, consisting of banks of white sand. In proceeding along it. Cook sailed in the track of Tasman, though in an opposite direction. On the 10th January 1770, he came in sight of a lofty mountain, in latitude 39° 16' S., longitude 186" 16' W., which, in honour of the earl of that name, he designated Mount Egmont. In appearance it resembled thti Peak of Teneriffe ; and its summit, when occasionally seen towering above the clouds which almost constantly enveloped it, was observ ed to be covered with snow. The country at its base was level, of a pleasant appearance, and thickly clothed with wood and verdure. On doubling a cape, which received the same title, he found himself in a large bay or opening, the southern end of which he could not distinguish. He sailed into it as far as latitude 40° 27' S., longitude 184° 39' W. In this position, besides the continuance of the same coast, there appeared an island towards the south, with several inlets, in one of which he resolved to careen the ship and take in a stock of wood and water. On the Ifith, accordingly, he anchored in a convenient harbour, about four long cannon shot from a fortified village, the inhabitants of which came off in canoes, and, after surveying the ship, made signs of defiance, and began the assault by a shower of stones. Native assuult. 282 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. Reception of a native. Cook's Strui ta- li^ '^ CHAP. IX. Tupia having expostulated with them, an old man came on board, in spite of his countrymen's remon- strances. He was kindly received, and dismissed with presents, and on rejoining his companions, they imme- diately commenced dancing, in token of peace. The Otaheitan was sufficiently understood by them, and learned that they had never before seen or heard of such a vessel as the Endeavour ; from which it was con^ cluded that no recoUection was preserved of the visit of Tasman, in 1642, though this must have been near the place which he termed Murderers' Bay. During his stay here. Cook, having ascended one of the neighbouring hills, beheld, to his surprise, the sea on each side of the island communicating by a passage or strait, on the south side of which his ship now lay. He soon after learned, what he had never before sus- pected, that the country was divided into two islands, the southern of which was called by the natives Tavai Poenammoo, and the northern Eaheinomauwe.* Having taken possession of the country in name of his sovereign, he left the inlet (on which he bestowed the appellation of Queen Charlotte's Sonnd) on the 6th of February, and soon found himself rapidly borne through the channel, which, in honour of its discoverer, geographers have unanimously recognised by the name of Cook's Straits. To the two capes which marked its eastern outlet, he gave the titles of Palliserand Campbell, and on doubling the former he stood to the northward, to determine a question on which there virere some doubts, whether Eaheinomauwe was really an islands On the 9th, he came in sight of Cape Turnagain (termed by the natives Topolo-Polo), and the point being thus clearly esta- blished, he resumed his course to the south-east ; and : unning quickly along the shores of Tavai Poenam loo. Circnmnavi Ration of New Zealand. * M. Diimont D'Urville, in January 1827, was assured hy two natixes, that the southern island bore indifferently the title of KaV- Kohoura or Tavai-Pounamou; and that the northern was called Ika-Na-Mawi. — Voyajre autour du Monde, tome ii. p. 80. FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 283 on the 9th of March reached its farthest extremity, in CIIAp. ix. latitude 47° 19' S., longitude 192« 12' W., whicjh he — named Cape South.* A sail of three days brought him to Cape West, in latitude 46° 54' S. and longitude 193° 17' W., from which, along a coast trending townrds the north-east, he proceeded so rapidly, that on the 26th he reached a small island at the entrance of Q,ueen Char- lotte's Sound. Having now completely circumnavigated New Zea- iinmcwarJ land, and being resolved to return home, Cook considered *""'®- it proper to take the opinion of his officers on the route to be pursued. His own wish was to go back by Cape Horn, and thus determine the question of a southern continent ; but, to effect this, it would have been neces- sary to keep in a high southei-n latitude in the very depth of winter, — an undertaking for which the vessel was insufficient. The same objection was urged against proceeding directly to the Cape of Good Hope ; and ** it was therefore resolved," says our navigator, " that we should return by the East Indies, and that with this view we should, upon leaving the coast, steer westward till we should fall in with the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the north- ward till we should arrive at its northern extremity ; but if that should be found impracticable, it was farther resolved that we should endeavour to fall in with the land or islands said to have been discovered by Quiros." f With this view, at dawn of the 31st March, Cook put Cape to sea with a fresh gale, and took his departure from a '^ ^ which he named Cape Farewell. His course. « point which lay almost due west, between the latitudes of 38° and 40°, was nearly coincident with that of Tasman from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand. On the 16th cap Slid de Cook forme aujourd'hui la pointe la pliiA mi»« le lie qui a mis le nom de Stewart, et qui s'est troiivr* I ny ' •• r»_r i_ j' a- J.. J'* u J_ I,'.. * «Le trale d'une detache de Tavai-Pounamou \>&r la decoiiverte du detroit de Fo- veaux."— D'Urville, tome ii. p. 339; M. Balbi, Abr%e d« Geo- graphie, p. 12H9. f Hawkesworth's Coll , voL m. p. 29. See above, p. 96-100. 284 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 8ign» of vicinity of land. Hicks' Point ■Ji \^' CHAP. IX. of April, the voyagers observed an egg-bird and a gannet, and on the next day a small land-bird alighted on the rigging, but no bottom was found ivith 120 fathoms. A pintado-bird and two Port Egmont hens were seen on the succeeding morning, and were con- sidered certain signs of the vicinity of land, which indeed was discovered on the following day, the 19th, stretching from north-east to west. The most southerly point, which received the name of Lieutenant Hicks, who first descried it, was estimated to lie in latitude 38° S. and longitude 211° 7' W. ; but Cook could not determine whether it joined Van Die- men's Land. Ho instantly made sail to the northward, and on the 28tli was in latitude 34° S., when he dis- covered a bay, in which he remained eight days. The coast, so far as yet visited, was of a pleasing aspect, di- versified by hills, valleys, and lawns, and almost every where clothed with lofty trees. Smoke arose from the woods in several places, and some inhabitants, four of whom carried a small canoe upon their shoulders, were observed walking briskly along the shore ; but, owing to the surf which broke on every part of the beach, it was impossible to approach them. On entering the bay, a few huts and several natives were seen ; four small canoes were likewise discerned, with one man in each, so busily occupied in striking fish with a long spear that they scarcely turned their eyes towards the ship, which passed them within a quarter of a mile. The anchor being cast in front of a village, preparation was made for hoisting out a boat; during which an aged female, followed by three children, issued from a wood. They were loaded with boughs, and on approach- ing a hut, three younger infants a-'vanced to meet them ; but though they often looked at the ship, they expressed neither fear nor wonder. The same want of interest was shown by the four fishermen, who hauled up their canoes, and began to dress their food at the fire which the old woman had kindled. A party were sent out to efiect a landing; but no sooner had they ap* Native fisliers. Indifference oitlionutivei. FIRST CIRCUMNAYIOATION OF COOK. 285 proached some rocks than two of the men, armed with chap. ix. lances about ten feet long, and short sticks, which it Tiireatof was supposed they employed in throwing their spears, hostilities, came down and called aloud in a harsh language quite unknown to Tupia, brandishing their weapons in evi- dence of their determination to defend the coast. The rest ran off, abandoning their countrymen to an odds of forty to two. Having ordered his boat to lie on her oars. Cook made signs of friendship, and offered presents of nails and other trifles, with which the savages seemed to be pleased ; but, on the first symptom of a nearer approach to the shore, they again assumed a hostile bearing. A musket was fired between them, the report of which caused the younger to drop a bundle of lances, which he again snatched up, and a stone was thrown at the English. Cook now directed small shot to be used ; Effect of when the elder, being struck on the leg, ran to a hut, **'earujs, from which, however, he instantly returned, bearing a sort of shield ; when he and his comra ie threw each a lance, but without inflicting injury. The fire of a third musket was followed by the discharge of another spear ; after which the savages ran off. It was found that the children had hid themselves in one of the huts ; and, without disturbing them. Cook, having left some beads and other articles, retired with all the lances he could find. Next morning, not one of the trinkets had been moved, nor was a single native to be seen near the spot. Small parties were met with at other places during Appearanoo ,, * . . u * i • • J oftheuutivcs. the excursions m search of water, provisions, and na- tural curiosities. The people were perfectly naked, very dark coloured, but not black ; their hair was bushy, and some very old men were observed with long beards, while the aged females had their locks cropt short. They subsisted chiefly on fish, dressed at fires both on shore and in their canoes. The country was stocked with wood, of which, however, only two kinds were thought worthy the appellation of timber ; shrubs, palms, man- groves, and a variety of plants, — many unknown to the naturalists, — were plentiful ; birds, some of great beauty, 286 FmST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. IX. fiotany Bajr. Cape ri'ibulation. \ ' » abounded ; and there were several strange quadrupeds* Such, to its first European visiters, appeared the charac- teristics of Botany Bay, so called from the profusion oi plants with which, through the industry of Messrs Banks and Solander, that department of natural history was enriched. To a harbour about three miles farther north, " in which there appeared to be good anchorage," Port Jackson. ^Jook gave the title of Port Jackson, — a name which has since become familiar in every quarter of the world. On the banks of this noble inlet have risen the town^; of Sydney and Paramatta, and its waters, on which 1000 ships of the line might ride in safety, are whitened by the sails of almost every people of Europe. On the 6th May, our navigator resumed his progress northward along the coast, and in about a month had advanced nearly 1300 miles. On the 10th of June, he was off a point which he afterwards named Cape Tribu- lation, in latitude W €' S., and longitude 214° 39' W. near the position assigned to some of the discoveries of Quiros, which certain geographers were of opinion formed part of some great mainland. With a view to see whether there were any in the offing, and to avoid two low woody islets ahead, he hauled from the shore, intending to stretch out all night, with the prospect of a fine breeze and clear moonlight. About nine o'clock, the water, which had deepened from fourteen to twenty- one fathoms, suddenly shoaled, and, within the space of a few minutes, fell to twelve, ten, and eight. Prepara- tion was immediately made for putting about and com- ing to anchor ; but the next cast of the line showing deep water, it was thought the vessel had got over tho shoals. Full twenty fathoms were next sounded, and the de pth continued to increase ; so that the gentlemen who had been summoned on deck retired to bed in perfect security. A few minutes before eleven o'clock, how- ever, Jhe water shallowed suddenly to seventeen fathoms, and, before the lead could be again cast, the Endeavour struck on a rock, and remained immovable except by the heaving of the surge. Boats being immediately TTie Endea your on a rock. FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 287 hoisted out, it was found that she had been lifted over a ledge, and now lay in a sort of basin, with only from three to four fathoms of water in some places, and in others not so many feet. An anchor was carried out from the stern, in hopes that it would take ground with sufficient firmness to resist the action of the cap- stan, so that the ship might be moved into deep water ; but every exertion to effect this was fruitless. Mean- while the vessel beat on the rocks with such violence, i\\at the crew could scarcely keep their footing ; and to increase their dismay the light of the moon showed them that the sheathing-boards had been separated from the bottom, and were floating around. The false keel followed, so that the only chance of safety seemed to lie in lightening the ship. But she had struck at the height of the tide, which was now fallen considerably, and the next flow must return before that process could be of any advantage. That all might be ia readiness, however, the water was started in the hold and pumped up ; all the guns on deck, the iron and stone ballast, casks, and many other articles, were thrown overboard ; while the crew became so impressed with their danger that not an oath was heard, — ** the habit of profaneness, however strong, being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt when death seemed to be so near." At daybreak land was seen about eight leagues off ; the ship still held together ; and the wind having hap- pily fallen, and a dead calm ensuing, anchors were got out and every thing prepared for heaving her off the rock ; but, though lightened to nearly fifty tons, she did not float by a foot and a half, so &r short was the tide of the day to that of the night. Greatly discouraged, the crew proceeded to diminish her weight still more, by throwing overboard every thing that could be spared ; but now the water, hitherto nearly excluded, rushed in 80 fast, that two pumps, incessantly working, could barely keep her afloat ; and about two o'clock she lay heelmg to starboard, while the pinnace, which was under her bows, touched the ground. There could, CHAP. IX Fruitlem exertiunit. Critical pubitiun. Preparations lor iieaviiiK off the rock. Rnshof water into the hold. 288 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF COOK. : CHAP. IX. The Endea- vour afloat Fothering successfully employed. Providential escape. I I EndeaTOi:r lilver. N therefore, be no hope of getting her cff till the mid- night-tide, which began to rise by five p. m. About that time the leak was observed to be rapidly increas- ing ; and though by nine the ship righted, the water, notwithstanding the action of three pumps, gained con- siderably. Shortly after ten she floated, and was heaved clear from the ledge into deep water. The labour at the pumps had now totally exhausted the men, none of whom could work beyond a few minutes, when, falling down on the deck, their places were sup. plied by others. Still they gained so considerably on the water, that, by the following morning, no doubt was entertained of the ship's ultimate safety. As the leak, however, continued, and the toil of pumping was excessive, Mr Monkhouse, who had formerly been in like danger, suggested tlie expedient of fothering the vessel, — that is, girthing round the bottom a sail pro- perly covered with oakum, a >'l kept stretched by means of ropes. It was tried, and answered so well, tha^ the use of two pumps could now be dispensed with. On the evening of the 12th, they cast anchor about seven leagues from the land ; but it was not till the l7th, that, a safe harbour having been found, the ship was hauled ashore to undergo repairs. It was then discovered that her preservation was due to a very singular circum- stance. " One of the holes," says the commander, " which was big enough to have sunk us if we had had eight pumps instead of four, and had been able to keep them incessantly going, was in great measure plugged np by a fragment of the rock, which, after having made the wound, was left sticking in it ; so that the water which at first had gained upon our pumps was what came in at the interstices betw^een the stone and the edges of the hole that received it." * A small stream near the spot where the vessel wa» refitted received the name of Endeavour River. Here, for the first time, Cook himself obtained a sight of the * Hawkeswortirs CoIL, vol. iii. |x 155. FIRST CIRCCMNAYIOATION OF COOK. 289 kangaroo, — a species of quadruped before that time un- chap, ix, known to European naturalists. It had previously been .j^^ — observed by some of his companions, and astonished Kangaroa them by its extraordinary leaps, the speed of which set a greyhound belonging to Mr Banks at defiance. It was described by one of the sailors, who almost took it for the devil, to be ** as large as a one-gallon keg, and very like it ; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the grass, that if I had not been a/eard I might have touched him." The navigators left this spot on the 6th August, with ^"|^^ the resolution of pursuing a north-east course, and keep- ing the pinnace in front to guide them by signals ; but they were speedily compelled to cast anchor by sudden shoal-water. On the following day, nothing was in view but breakers extending on all sides, and far out to the open sea, into which there seemed no entrance, ex- cept through a labyrinth of coral rocks, in some parts as steep as a wall, at others edged with patches of sand, covered only at high water. Nearly a week passed among these and other perils, when, getting between the mainland and three small islands, they thought they had discovered a clear opening. But the appellation Cape Flattery denotes its deceptive promise, and they still found themselves obliged to keep near the shore. After a few days, they reached a channel which con- ducted them beyond the breakers. Early on the morning of the IGth, they were alarmed Dnngeron* by the roaring of the surf, which at dawn they saw foaming to a vast height at about a mile's distance ; while the depth was so great, that they could not reach the ground with an anchor. In the absence of wind to fill a sail, the waves drove them rapidly towards the reef. Boats were immediately sent ahead to tow the vessel off, but they would have failed to save her had not a light breeze moved her obliquely from the reel when she was within 100 yards of it. In less than ten minutes the wind again fell, and the ship was driven towards the breakers ; it once more sprung up, and a {\ t ::.^£s= 2S)0 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. Critical position, York Capo, New South 'Wuicai CliAP. IX. abort space was gained. Meanwhile an opening appeared in the reef, by which, though not broader than the length of the vessel, it was d«itermined to attempt a passage Into the smooth water behind. But, before it could be reached, the tide of ebb rushed out of it like a miil-stream, and drove her off. This, though a consi- derable disappointment, enabled the navigators, with much exertion, to make an offing of nearly two mill s. Their situation was nevertheless critical in the extreme, till another narrow opening was seen to the west, tlirough which they were hurried with amazing rapidity ; and shortly afterwards cast anchor within the reef in nine- teen fathoms, gratefully naming the passage through which they had escaped Providential Channel. On the 21st, Cook made York Cape, the most north- erly point of the coast, in latitude 10° 37' S., longitude 218° 24' W. ; and having landed on a small Island, he hoisted the English colours, and took possession of the whole eastern coast of New Holland, from latitude 38° to latitude 10^° S., by the name of New South Wales. The discovery made by the companion of Quires, in 1606, of the strait between Papua and Australia, was, it has been already mentioned, at this time entirely for- gotten ;* and Cook, in sailing between them, settled the much-agitated question, " Whether New Holland and New Guinea were separate islands V* To the channel which divides them he gave the name of his ship, by which it is sometimes recognised, although more com- monly known by the name of its first explorer, Torres. Its length, from north-east to south-west, was reckoned ten leagues ; and its breadth five, except at the north- east entrance, where it was conti'acted to less than two miles by certain islands. The voyagers left it on the 23d of August, and two days after had a narrow escape from some shoals, which they approached within lialf- ft^cablc's length. On the 3d of September, they landed Torres SUaitfi. * See above, pp. 97, 109, 119, 132. 239, and 240. FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 291 CRAP. IX. New Galnea. on New Guinea, near the Cape de la Colta St Bonaren- tura, in latitude G° 15^ S. The natives resembled those of Australia, but their skin was not so dark ; they were equally naked, quite as hostile, and in possession of a species of fire-arms which emitted ilame and smoke like a musket ; but the short sticks from which these sin(mlarii«- i3sued, and which were swung sideways from the bearer, "^° *"°* made no report. It was uncertain if they projected any thing that could do mischief at a distance ; for the whole phenomenon, though it excited wonder at the time, was impeifectly observed ; nor are we aware that it has since been satisfactorily explained. Our navigator now determined to proceed west^-ard Arrival at towards the Straits of Sunda. On the 9th, he came in ^*^^ sight of Timor, and six days after anchored at Savu, or Sou, an island to the west-south-west, colonized by the Dutch, who succeeded the Portuguese in its occupation, but at the time so little known to Europeans, that Cook considered it as a new discovery. Leaving it on the 2l8t of September, he came to anchor on the 9th of the following month in the road of Batavia, where it was intended to repair the vessel. On their arrival, all the ship*s company, except the Otaheitan, were in good health, and even he, delighted with every thing he saw, continued for a few days to improve in strength and spirits. But, soon after, Tupia and others becanu' Sickrrss alarmingly indisposed, and in a short space the sickness crew.**, spread so much that only a very small number could per- form duty. Mr Monkhouse, the surgeon, was the first vic- tim to this pestilential spot ; Dr Solander was barely able to attend his funeral ; Mr Banks lay confined to bed ; some of his servants* were dangerously affected ; Tupia and his boy were evidently sinking apace ; Cook himself was taken ill : in short, the work of death had com- menced, and threatened, if not speedily arrested, to overtake the whole. Befom the Endeavour took her departure, on the 26th of December, seven of her com- plement had died, and the number of sick amounted to forty. Among the deceased were Tayeto and his kind iwmi II niaiaratiM •M^m J 292 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF COOK. CHAP. IX. Death of Tnpia and Tayeto. Dangerons condition uf tlie ship. Great mortality. Arrival in the Dowua Great inter- est excited at home. protector Tupia, ** who sunk at once after the loss of the boy, whom ho loved with the tenderness of a parent." On inspecting the ship, it was found that two planks and the half of a third, under the main channel, near the keel, had the extent of six feet so worn, as not to be above the eighth of an inch in thickness ; :.nd even this gauze-like partition, on which the lives of so many had depended, was perforated by worms. The remainder of the voyage was marked by an alarming mortality, the seeds of which were no doubt sown at Batavia. In the run from the western mouth of the Straits of Sunda to the Cape of Good Hope, which was reached on the 15th of March 1771) few nights passed without a corpse being committed to the deep, and those still able to move could not answer the demands of the sick. In the course of six weeks, the pestilence carried off Messrs Sporing and Parkinson, both in the establishment of Mr Banks ; Mr C i-een, the astronomer, and various others ; in all twenty-three persons, besides the seven who died at Batavia, and Mr Hicks, the first-lieutenant, who soon after fell a victim to consumption. The Endeavour left the Cipe on the 14th of April, and on the 12th of June came to anchor in the Downs. This memorable voyage excited among all classes the most intense interest. " If," wrote Linnseus, from Upsal, " I were not bound fast here by sixty-four years of age, and a worn-out body, I would this very day set out for London, to see my dear Solander, — that great hero of botany. Moses was not permitted to enter Palestine, but only to view it from a distance ; so I conceive an idea in my mind of the acquisitions and treasures of those who have visited every part of the globe." At home, Mr Banks and his companions be- came the objects of general curiosity ; their conversa- tion was eagerly sought by the learned, the noble, and the wealthy ; and even royalty found delight in listen, ing to the adventures of the discoverers, and examining the specimens of the arts and manu£Eictures which they FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. *^93 had gathered in the distant countries they had ex- chap. ia. plored.* The manner in which Cook had discharged his duty nonnam anu secured him almost universal approbation. He was ^H^^*^*^' honoured with an introduction to his majesty at St James's, when he presented a journal of his voyage* with illustrative maps and charts ; and by a commis- sion, dated 29th August 1771) he was promoted to the rank of commander. With a becoming pride and con- sciousness of his own merits, he was desirous to obtain a higher station ; but his wish could not bo gratified without violating the rules of the naval service. * Interest attached itself even to the animals which were on board the Endeavour in her eventful navi^tion; and Dr Johnson condescended to write an indifferent epit^m on a goat wliich Mr Banks had carried with him round the t;h)be : — ** Perpetua ambitA bis terra pnemia lactis Use habet altrici Capra secunda Jovis." - -^--^ S94 8EC0>D CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. CHAPTER X. Second Circumnav^athn of Cook, Ohjerts of the Voj^afife - Search for Bouvet's Land- The SouUipm Continent— Aurora Australia — Arrival at New Zealand — Visit to the Low Archipela^-Otaheite — Huahcine — Ulieteu— Re- discovery of the Tonga or Friendly Islands— Sectind Visit to New Zealand — Separation of the Ships— Search for the Terra Australis resumed — Highest South Latitude attained — Danger- ous Illness of Cook— Easter Island— Las Marquesas— The So- ciety Islands — The Tonga Islands — New Hebrides— Discovery of New Caledonia — Norfolk Island — Third Visit to New Zea- land—Run across the Pacific — Survey of Tierra del Fuego and Staten Land — Discovery of New South Georgia and Sandwich Land — Return to the Cape of Good Hope — Adventures of Cap- tain Furneaux — Conclusion of the Voyage— Honours paid to Cook — His narrative of the Expedition— Oniai in England. CHAP. X. Pcsiilts of Cook's voyage. New expedi- tion pro- tected. Although, by circumnavigating New Zealand and exploring the eastern coasts of New Holland, Cook had exploded- the opinion so long cherished, that these countries belonged to the great Terra Australis Incog- nitay yet the question of a vast southern continent re- mained undecided, and a belief in its existence was still strongly entertained, both on physical and historical grounds, by some of the most distinguished men of that day. '' Soon after the return of the Endeavour, it was re- solved to prepare an expedition expressly to settle this much agitated point. The Earl of Sandwich, then at the head of the Admiralty, prosecuted the design with ardour ; it received the cordial approbation of the king ; ;; II I liiWI pj f i SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 29b nnd Cook was at once chosen as the intlividunl to whom chap. x. the execution of it ought to be intrusted. On considering the nature and dangers of the voyage, 7.1,^. nu^iu. it was deemed advisable that two vessels should act in tion und concert. These were similar in size and construction to the Endeavour, and had been built at Whitby by the same person. The Resolution, of which Cook had the command, was rated at 462 tons burden ; and the Adventure,* of 336 tons, was placed under Captain Fuineaux, who had sailed as second lieutenant under Wallis. The former had a complement of 112, and the latter of 81;, officers and men. Both were equipped Etiuipment in the most complete manner, according to the science ""^^ "*"** and experience of the period, under the eye of Lord Sandwich ; and, besides the very best stores and provi- sions, the Navy and Victualling Boards supplied a variety of articles, intended for the preservation of the seamen's health. Among these were malt, sour crout, salted cabbage, portable broth, saloop, and mustard, — all well- known antiscorbutics ; to which were added, for the sake of trial, marmalade of carrots, and the inspissated juice of wort ond beer. Clothing suitable to a cold climate was put on board the ships, together with ample materials for fishing, and articles to serve as pre- * From an anecdote preserved by Boswell, it appears that it was Ntmes of the originally intended to bestow other names on the vessels. " 21st vtss^ela. March 1772. A i^ntleman haTin^^ come in who was to po as a mate in the ship along with Mr Banks and Dr Solander, Dr John- son asked what were the names of the ships destined tor the ex- pedition. The gentleman answered. They were once to be called the Drake and tne Raleigh, but now they were to be called the Resolution and the Adventure. JoHKSOK. — * Much better; (or had the Raleigh [the Drake ?] returned without goint^ round the world, it would have been ridiculous. To give them tne names of ihe Drake and the Raleigh, was laying a trap for satire.* Bos- WELL. — ' Had not you some desire to go upon this expedition, sir?' J0HN8OK.— ' Why, yes, but I soon laid it aside. Sir, there is very little of intellectual m the course. Besides, I see but at a small distance. So it was not worth my while to go to see birds Hy, which I should not have seen fly ; and fishes swim, which I should not have seen swim.'" — Boswell's Lite of Johnson (Mr Croker's ed.), vol. ii. p. 138. t 1 CHAP. X. Native presents. Abandon- ment ot the expeditions Ly Banlia. 296 111 construc- tion of the Resolution. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. sents for the natives of the countries visited, and as money for the purchase of provisions. Each vessel had likewise the framework of a tender, to be set up, it required, on any emergency. Nor were the interests of science neglected ; Mr Hodges, an accomplished artist, was engaged as draughtsman ; and Messrs Banks and Solander having abandoned their design of ac. company ing the expedition,* Mr John Reinhold For- * An attempt has l)cen lately made to ascribe the change in Mr Banks' intentions to the alleged moroseness of Cook^s tem|)cr. In a report Irom a committee of the Geographical Society of Paris (Annales Maritimes, January 1831), it is said: — '^Du reste le caractere indexible et morose de cet intrepide marin rendit sou- vent aux personnes appelees a servir sous ses ordres leur position desagrcable. On se souvient que Banks renon9a a I'accompagner dans son second voyage, bien qu'il efit tout dispose dans cette in- tention." This charge appears destitute of the si i^ litest foundaiiwn. During the first voyage, which extended to nearly three years, Sir Joseph could not fail to become intimately acquainted with the pe- culiarities of Cook's disposition; and knowing these so fully, it is quite inconsistent with the decision and whole character of the late President of the Royal Society, to suppose that he would have determined to join the ex))edition, and made expensive arrange- ments, only to ibrego his design when the hour of sailing was at hand. Indeed, it is well known that he gave up his project only ** because the Navy Board showed no wilHngneas to provide that accommodation which the extent of his preparations and the num- ber of his scientific followers reqiiired." Ihe ibllowing statement is given in the Annual Register for 177^ ({>• iO^)^ under the dateot 11th June: — " Mr Banks and Dr Solander were not consulted on the choice of the ship; and on their olyecting to her want of ac- commodation for their draughtsmen, &c., as well as to her want ot room to stow the crew, the Navy Board undertook to give all those conveniences, and patched the same ship with a round-house and square deck, and without considering whether she could bear it, manned and equipped her for the voyage. INIr Bunks, Dr Solander, &c., examined her a second time ; found her convenient if she could sail, of which they doubted, and reprted her top-heavy. Their observations were disregarded; but a gale of wind arising, laid her on her side without her having' a single sail unreeled, and she could not for some time recover ; tliey ordered the long-boat to save the crew, when unexpectedly she recovered. Notwithstanding this accident, she was rejjorted good, and fit for the voyjige, and was ordered to Plymouth. The pilot obeyed these orders, sending word he could not ensure her out of the river. At last it was found the farce could not be carried on longer, and the reports on which the Navy Board proceeded were found false; expresses were sent along tlie coast to Deal, &c., to order her into the nearest SECOND CIRCUMNATIOATION OF COOK. 297 ster * and his son were employed as naturalists. Parlia- chap X. ment made a grant of £4000, *' as an encouragement for Pftrii7inK5»- the more e£fectually prosecuting the discoveries towards lury panL dock to Sheerness, if they could overtake her: this was no difficult task; for while the other ships cleared the Downs, she did not make one knot an hour. She was put into dock; they cut oiF her round-house and part oC her deck, reduced the cabin, and put her in the same unfit situation she was in when first objected to ; and then the question was politely put to Mr Banks, Take this or none. Mr Banks has laid out several thousand pounds for instruments, &c., preparatory for the voyage ; Mr Zoffani (a well-known piiinter) near £1000 for necessaries, and the other gentlemen very considei^ able Slims on that account." * This voluminous author was bom at Dirschau, in Polish Prus- joj,j, Reln- sia, on the 22d October 1729. He came to Enjfland in 176*), and jiold Foster, was enjraged by the ArlmiraUy as naturalist to Cook's expedition a* *lie brief warning often days. His unfortunate temper involved him in continual broils with his shipmates, one of whom informs us, that Forster in these disputes so often used the threat, " I will complain to the king !" that the expression became proverbial among the seamen, and was jocularly employed by them on the most trifling occasions. He took with him in this expedition his sou John George Adam (more commonly allied George), then 17 years old, who published an account of the circumnavigation under the title of " A Voyaji;:: round the World in his Britannic Majesty's Sloop Resolution," London, 1777* 2 vols 4to. A translation into German ap[>eared at Berlin in 1779-17^0. The numerous and of- fensive attacks upon the conduct of the officers and crew called forth ii cutting pamphlet from the astronomer, entitled, " Remarks on Mr Forster s Account ol'Captain C«M)k's Last Voyage. By VVm., Wales, F.R.S.," London, l77o, Uvo; which occasioned a "Reply to Mr Wales' Remarks, by Mr Forster," Loudon, 1778, Hvo. In the succeeding year, he published " A Letter to the Earl of Sand« His works, wich," London, 1779, 4to, in which he attempted to prove that he and his father were not rewarded sufficiently, nor agreeably to the contract, for their services. It was commonly supposed at the time, that the account of the voyage was the joint pmdiiction ot both; but this was denied by George. The style is inflated and pompous, the reflections are for tl." n.oFt part in a verv false taste, and the work is disfigured throughout by thai 'Superficial and fanci- ful philosophy which the writings of Lord Kainies have rendered well known in Scotland. John Reinhold gave to the public '• Ob- servations made during a Voyage round the World on Physical Geography, Natural tlistory, and Ethical Phil(>.s(»pliy," London, 1770, 4to. He died at Halle in Germany, on the 9th December 179f{, aged 70; his sou deceased at Paris on the I'itli January tl'M, in tile 40th year of his life. — Memoirs by Evries. in Biograpliie Universelle. vol. xv. p. 282-290. Nichols' I^itcuuv Anecdott'S, vol. iii. p. 90 92, note. i 298 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIOATION Of COOK. \-i Sailing of the expedition. Objects to \>i aimed at. CHAP. X. the South Pole ;" and, by agreement with the Boai-d of Longitude, two gentlemen of distinguished acquire- ments, Messrs Wales and Bayly, furnished with the best instruments and timepieces, undertook the astronomical department. The ships thus equipped joined in Plymouth Sound, on the 3d of July 1772 ; and, after a farewell visit from Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser, Cook received his instructions, dated the 25th of the preceding month. They directed him to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, where he was to refresh his crews, and take in provi- sions. He was then to sail to the southward in quest of a point of land named Circoncision, said to have been discovered in latitude 64° 20' S., and between nine and eleven degrees of east longitude. In the event of falling in with it, he was to satisfy himself whether it belonged to an island, or formed part of the Terra Aus- tralia so long sought and to explore it as diligently and extensively as possible. This being accomplished, or in case he should not find the cape, he was to proceed to the southward, so long as he thought there was a likeli- hood of falling in with a continent, and thence towards the east with the same view : and, generally, he was instructed to discover such islands as might exist in the unexplored part of the southern hemisphere, keeping in high latitudes, and prosecuting his inquiries as near the pole as possible, until he had circumnavigated the globe. The cape mentioned in the instructions had been visited, it was reported, by a French officer, M. Lozier Bouvet, who, on the 19th July 1738, sailed from Port POrient in command of two frigates, to search for land about the latitude of 44° S., longi*"de 366" eastward from Teneriffe, where some ancient i.iarts had placed a promontory of the Southern Continent. On the ist January 1739, in latitude 64° 20' S., longitude 26° 47' east from the same meridian, he got sight of land, which, in honour of the day, was named Cape de la Circonci- sion. It was high and steep, the mountains were for the most part covered with snow, and the coast was Royiortcd French discuveries. i. ,-"^ SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 299 Sovore weather. bordered with ice. From the state of the weather no CHAP. X. boat could prudently attempt to reach it ; and the navi- gators left it without being able to determine whether it was part of a continent or an island.* Cook took his departure from England on the 13th July ; made the Cape of Good Hope on the 29th Octo- Anciiorinff in ber ; and next morning anchored in Table Bay, where "^^^^^ '*'*>• he remained till the 22d of November. Before sailing, he was induced, by the solicitation of Mr Forster, to receive on board, as an assistant to the naturalists, Dr Sparrmann, by birth a Swede, and a disciple of Linnseus. The course was first directed towards the discovery of Bouvet ; but adverse and stonny winds drove the navi- gators far to the eastward of their intended track, and left them no hopes of reaching the desired promontory. They likewise lost the greater part of their live stock, and underwent no little inconvenience by the rapid transition from the warm climate of the Cape to that incident to the latitude of 48° 41' S., which, in the lon- gitude of 18° 24' E., they had attained on the 6th of December. On the 10th, they found themselves two degrees farther south, and for the first time descried islands of ice, some of which were upwards of fifty feet in height ; while such was the fury of the waves, that the sea broke quite over them. The latitude of Point Low ten-.- Circoncision was attained on the 13th ; but the voyagers r*^''*'^''' '^"'^ considered themselves about 118 leagues to the eastward of its position. On the morning of the next day, their course to the south was arrested by an immense field of ice, to which they could see no end, either in the east, west, or south. Some of them, and Cook himself at one time, thought land was discernible over it ; but tliis de- lusive appearance, it was soon discovered, had been occa- sioned by ice-hills observed through a hazy atmosphere. Several days were spent in sailing along this impene- trable mass, or in clearing various islands which were floating near it. The weather, meanwhile, was gen- • '■ • Burney, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. v. p. 30-37. i 300 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. X. Symptoms of scurry. Search for a southern continent l>! Crossing tho Aiitartic circle. Field ice. erally foggy, with sleet and snow, from which the whole crew suffered much, though the thermometer did not descend below 30". Symptoms of scurvy in both vessels, at the same sime, excited some uneasiness ; but by the copious use of fresh wort, these were removed. On the supposition that the ice which had been en- countered was formed in bays and rivers, it seemed pro- bable that, as land could not be far distant, it might lie beyond the large field which alone barred the approach to it. Cook determined to run thirty or forty leagues to the east, then endeavour to steer southwards, and, by getting behind the ice, set the question at rest. But, though he proceeded in this direction for some time, and afterwards sailed both to the south and the west of the alleged position of Bouvet*8 discovery, he neither fell in with it nor observed any certain indication of land. Penguins, indeed, were seen in abundance, birds which, as is commonly believed, never go far from shore. On the 4th of January 1773, he quitted a part of the sea which he had amply explored, and took a course more to the south. On the l7th, he crossed the antarc- tic circle in the longitude of 39° 36' ; but about six o'clock the same evening, in latitude 67° 16' S., he found that farther progress in that direction was imprac- ticable, " the ice being entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent from east to yest-south-west, without the least appearance of any opening.'* This vast body was composed of masses in the various forms of high hills, loose or broken pieces packed closely together, and what the Greenlandmen call field-ice. One floating portion of this last kind, to the south-east, was of such size, that no end to it could be aeen from the mast-head ; it was sixteen or eighteen feet in height, and pretty equal on the surface. In this situation many whales were observed ; the brown, white, and blue petrels were met with in considerable numbei-s, together with a few dark-gray albatrosses ; but the pintados, so common in lower latitudes, had wholly disappeared. Amid the dangers and privations to which the discoverers had been \ r ^ SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 301 SO long exposed, they were enabled to command an in- chap. X. exhaustible supply of fresh water, by dissolving portions guppiT^f of ice which had been allowed to remain on deck a fresh water, short time, for the purpose of draining off the salt which adhered to the surface ; and in this manner, in the space of a few hours, no less than fifteen tuns were obtained. It was perfectly sweet and well tasted. The summer of those southern regions was already change of half spent, and Cook did not consider it prudent to p6r- <'"""®' severe in the attempt to reach a higher latitude, espe- cially as some time would be consumed in getting round the ice, even if this were practicable, which he doubted. He therefore resolved to proceed in search of lands said to have been lately discovered by some French officers, of whose enterprises he had received a meagre report at the Cape o'c Good Hope. In prosecution of this object, he first sailed north over part of the sea already tra- versed, and then north-east, till, on the 1st of February, he reached latitude 48° 30', nearly in the meridian of the Mauritius ; but though he used the precaution of keeping some miles distant from the Adventure, with a view to more extensive seaich, neither that vessel nor his own got sight of land. On the day last mentioned, ^"'^^'^f'/'n^^ indeed, Captain Furneaux pointed out circumstances which seemed to indicate its vicinity ; but there was no possibility of determining whether it lay to the east or the west ; and the state of the winds prevenced com- plete investigation. Other signs of a similar kind were subsequently noticed ; but they 1 id to no result ; and our navigator, when in latitude 48° 6', and longitude 68"^ 22' E., being satisfied that if there was any land near him it could only be an island of inconsiderable extent, bore away to the east-south-east. A separation between the two vessels took place on the 8th, " though," tiie"e»se^" says Cook, " we were at a loss to tell how it had been effected." He continued to pursue a south-east course, and was tantalized by some indications of land, espe- cially the appearance of penguins and other birds, but found them deceptive. On the l7th, for the fii-st time. 1 !^ I, 302 SECOND CIRCUHNATIOATION OF COOK* CHAP. X. Anrora Australia Luminous arch. Dangers from Ice. he saw luminous appearances in the heavens similar to those in the other hemisphere, which have been named Aurora Borealis or Northern Streamers. " The natural state of the heavens," says Mr Wales, " except m the south-east quarter, and for about 10° of altitude all round the horizon, was a whitish haze, through which stars of the third magnitude were just discernible. >11 round, the horizon was covered with thick clouds, out of which arose many streams of a pale reddish light that ascended towards the zenith. These streams had not that motion which they ave sometimes seen to have in England, but were perfectly steady, except a small tremulous motion which some of them had near their edges." This remarkable phenomenon recurred several times ; and on one occasion, writes the astronomer, " the evening was very clear, and the Southern Lights were exceeding bright and beautiful, and appeared of a semi- circular or rainbow-like form, whose two extremities were nearly in the east and west points of the horizon. This bow, when it first made its «\ppearance, passed a considerable way to the north of the zenith ; but rose by degrees, turning, as it were, on its diameter, and, passing through the zenith, settled at length towards the southern horizon. These lights were at one time so bright that we could discern our shadows on the deck."* On board the Adventure, as we are assured by Mr Bayly, " they were so bright that large print might have been read by their light" Cook had intended again to penetrate beyond the an- tarctic circle, notwithstanding the advanced season of the year and the severity of the weather ; but huge masses of ice, broken and driven about by a heavy sea, and with which, during dark nights, it was scarcely possible to avoid coming in contact, deterred him from the de- sign. He therefore stood to the north-eastward, and on the 8th of March attained latitude 69° 44' S., in longi- \ * Astronomical Observations made in a Voyaue towards the South Pole, Lond. 1777 4to, po. 343, 344. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 303 J tude 121° 9' E., where, besides the pleasure of a bright chap. x. sky and an atmosphere as serene and mild as had oc- aeTerestorm curred since leaving the Cape of Good Hope, there was that of having not a single island of ice in sight. In the afternoon, however, the heavens portended a storm, which speedily came on, and lasted till the evening of the 10th, attended by a very high sea, and followed by a long hollow swell from S.S.E. and S.E. by S. "Who- ever attentively considers this," says Cook, " must con- clude that there can be no land to the south but what must be at a great distance." A return of moderate weather would have inclined him to venture in that direction ; but he was soon convinced that he had gone far enough, and that the time was approaching when those seas could not be navigated. On the 17th, he was in latitude 5Q° T S., and Dusky Bay, longitude 146° 63' E., when, having determined to quit New Zealand the high southern latitudes, he bore away north-east and north, and on the 2Sth of March came in sight of New Zealand. The next day he anchored in Dusky Bay, after being 117 days at sea, and having in that time sailed 8660 leagues without once seeing land. It might have been apprehended that a voyage of such length, in a region so inclement, could not be performed without the prevalence of scurvy ; but only one man suffered much by that disease, to which he was predis- posed by a bad habit of body and by a complication of other disorders. The general good health of his crew was by Cook attributed mainly to the liberal use of sweet wort, and to the frequent airing of the ship by fires. A more commodious harbour having been discovered harbour^*'^ by Lieutenant Pickersgill, whose name was given to it, the ship was removed thither on the 28th, and all hands were speedily busied in obtaining water, cutting down wood, setting up the observatory, forge, and tents, brewing beer from the branches or leaves of the spruce- fir, seeking provisions, botanizing, and exploring the country. The transition from their late wearisome 1 <'i 1 304 SECOND CIRCrMNAVIGATION OF COOK. General delight of the crew. Description of the scenery. I CHAP. X. monotony of life to such employments was made with general delight. For a long time the crew had been en- gaged in continual struggles to evade masses of ice which threatened destruction every moment, amid storms and mists, and without either refreshment or sight of land. They now found themselves in a genial climate and a fertile country, the woods of which were mellowed by the tints of approaching autumn, and re- sounded with the songs of strange birds. " The view of rude sceneries in the style of Rosa," writes Mr Forster, "of antediluvian forests which clothed the rock, and of numerous rills of water which every where rolled down the steep declivity, altogether conspired to complete our joy ; and so apt is mankind, after a long absence from land, to be prejudiced in favour of the wildest shore, that we looked upon the country at that time as one of the most beautiful which nature, un- assisted by art, could produce."* The more sober- minded Cook tranquilly "hoped to enjoy with ease w^hat in our situation might be called the luxuries of life." An examination of the bay convinced him that there were few places in New Zealand yet visited which afforded the necessary refreshments so plenteously ; and we are informed, that notwithstanding the rains, which were frequent at this season, " such as were sick and ailing recovered daily, and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous, which can only be attributed to the healthiness of the place and the ^sh provisions it af- forded." The navigators left Dusky Bay on the 11th May, and proceeded along the shore towards Queen Charlotte's Sound, meeting with nothing worthy of remark till the l7th, when a gentle gale having sunk into a calm, and a clear sky becoming suddenly obscured by dense clouds, several waterspouts were seen. Four of them rose and spent themselves between the ship and the land ; the fifth was outside the vessel ; while the sixth, which Water Bpuut^ A Forster*s Voyage, vol. i. p. 124. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 305 first appeared in the south-west at the distance of two or three miles, and had a progressive motion in an irregular line to the north-east, passed harmlessly with- in fifty yards of the stern. ** I was then below looking at the barometer," says Mr Wales ; " when I got upon deck it was about 100 yards from the ship. It is im- possible to say what would have been the consequences if it had gone over her ; but I believe they would have been very dreadful. ... I think that none of these spouts continued entire more than ten minutes, perhaps not quite so long. I saw four complete at one time ; but there were great numbers which began to form, and were dispersed, by what cause I know not, before the cloud and water joined." * Queen Charlotte's Sound was reached at dawn of the following day, and general satisfaction was diifused by the tidings that the Adventure was in the harbour. Captain Fumeaux had lost sight of his consort in a thick fog, and after firing a gun every half hour as a signal without receiving an answer, and having passed three days, according to agreement, in a cruise as near as possible to the same place, he bore away several degrees north of Cook's track towards Van Diemen's Land. He made the farther extremity of this island on the 10th March, and having, examined its southern and eastern shores, came to the opinion, " that there are no straits between New Holland and Van Diemen's Land, but a very deep bay." On the 19th, when in about 39 degrees of latitude, with land in view, finding "the ground very uneven and shoal- water some distance off," he discontinued his northerly course and stood away for New Zealand. A passage of fifteen days having brought him to the coast of that country, he entered Ship Cove on the 7th April, from which period till the arrival of the Resolution he had held a peaceable intercourse with the natives. No long stay was made in the sound after the junction CHAP. X Danger to be appreheoded Queen Charlottrt'a Sound. Rennion of the Resolu- tion and Endcai'our. * Astronomical Observations, p. 346. 306 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. Prosecution of the voyage. CHAP. X. of the vessels, Cook resolving, notwithstanding the season of winter, rather to traverse the ocean as far as the longi- tude of 136° or 340° W. between the latitudes of 41** and 46°, than to remain idle, and thus increase the work to be performed in the ensuing summer. He had in- tended to visit Van Diemen's Land, in order to deter- mine whether or not it made a part of New Holland ; but he remarks, " as Captain Fumeaux had now in a great measure cleared up that point, I could have no business there." * Before leaving New Zealand, he en- deavoured to benefit it as far as possible by sending two goats on shore, and by sowing or planting many seeds and roots of useful vegetables. Tlie voyage to the e.istward commenced on the 7th June. It was prosecuted till the 17th July, when, in latitude 39° 44', longitude 133° 32' W., and nearly in the middle between his own track to the north in 1769, and his return to the south in the same year, Cook, seeing no signs of land, steered noi*th-easterly, with a view to explore the sea down to latitude 27°, — "a Benevolent proceedings. Unsuccessful search fur land space; t9 he says. "that had not been visited by any preceding navigator that I knew of." On the 1st August, he was near the situation assigned by Carteret to Pitcairn's Island ; but, failing in his hope of finding it, without a delay which the sickly state of his consort's crew rendered inexpedient, and being convinced there could be no continent between the meridian of America and New Zealand, unless in a very high southern lati- tude, he turned his course towards Otaheite. Daybreak of the 11th revealed land in the south. It proved to be an island about two leagues in extent, and * It is to 1)6 re£rretted that Cook, in his reliance on Captain Fur- neanx abandoned his design of personally investigating this point: had he done so, without over-estimating his skill or sagacity, we may express our confidence that he would have anticipated the im- portant discovery^ made by Messrs Flinders and Bass in i7U8, of the channel named Bass's Strait, separating Van Diemen's Land from Australia. An interesting account of this gallant expedition will be found in Flinders* Voyage to Terra Australis (Lond. 1814, 4to), vol. i. p. 138.193. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIOATION OP COOK. 307 covered with wood, '* above which the cocoa>nut trees CHAP. X showed their lofty heads." It was reckoned to he in Rpgoj^tion latitude 17° 24' S. and longitude 141° G9' W., and and Doubtful received the name of Resolution. The same day, **''"'^ another was discovered, and called Doubtful. One which was seen the next morning was entitled Fur- neaux ; and the designation of that officer's ship, the Adventure, was given to a third descried in the morning of the 13th. " I must here observe," says Cook, " that amongst these low and half-drowned isles (which are numerous in this part of the ocean) M. Bougainville's discoveries cannot be known to that degree of accumcy which is necessary to distinguish them from others. We were obliged to have recourse to his chart for the latitudes and longitudes, as neither the one nor the other is mentioned in his narrative. . . . He \ery pro- perly calls this cluster the Dangerous Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced us that we were surrounded by these isles, and how necessary it was to proceed with the utmost caution, especially in the night." * At length, on the 16th August, he came in sight of MaHca Osnaburg Island or Maitea, when he apprized Captain Fumeaux of his intention to put into Oaitipiha Bay, near the south-east end of Otaheite, to get what refresh- ments he could before resuming his old station at Mata- vai. But in this attempt, which was made early next day, he barely escaped total shipwreck on the coral reefs, in presence of many of the natives, who, probably from ignorance of his danger, showed not the slightest con- cern. When safely within the harbour, few of them by'the' inquired after Tupia, but many for Mr Banks, and natives, others whom they had known during the previous visit. The cause of their countryman's demise, as explained to them, was deemed quite satisfactory ; and, " indeed," says Cook, " it did not appear to me that it would have caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one. Rpcosmitioo 11: Voya^ towards the South Pole, vol. i. [). 142 ^» ' SOS SECOND CIRCUAINAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. X Native cupidity. Visit and gifts to l(ing Otoo. Grief of the deceased reitcnt's muiLcr. Kative enter taiiiiucQU. had his death been occasioned by any other means than by sickness." The captain's rigid system of policy, for tlie protection or recovery of stolen goods was soon found to be as necessary and as efficacious as on the former occasion. The vessels removed to Matavai on the 26th, by which time the crew of the Adventure had greatly re- covered. The voyogers met with many acquaintances among the crowd who speedily thronged the decks ; and next day Cook visited Otoo, tiien sovereign of part of the island, whose friendship was essential in obtaining a supply of provisions. Suitable presents were accord- ingly offered and accepted, and, in return, his majesty promised some hogs, but was loath to go on board, being, as he said, " mataou no te jMupoue;** that is, afraid of the guns. Indeed, all his actions showed timidity ; though he at last ventured to visit the ship, attended by a numerous train. A more touching interview took place with the mother of the regent Tootahah, wl?o, seizing the commander by both hands, burst into tears, and told him his friend was dead. " I was so much affected with her behaviour," he writes, " that it would have been impossible for me to have refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and taken me from her." He afterwards learned that Tootahah had fallen in battle, and that his remains, after being exposed on a tupapow or open shed, where they were honoured with the customary rites of mourning, were deposited in the family marai at Oparee. The good understanding thus commenced was kept up by reciprocal acts of kindness and attention. The island- monarch and his people were gratified by the music of the bagpipe, their favourite instrument, and by the dances of the seamen ; while the English were enter- tained with a dramatic play, or heava^ a medley of dancing and comedy. All the fruits which the country produces they obtained abundantly, except that of the bread-tree, which was not then in season ; but owing to intestine wars and other circumstances, bogs and fowls we foi tec isl B( to w hi w n c li c ( \ ■HHH SECOND CIRCUMNAVIQATIOK OF COOK. 300 caAP.x. Uuubuiua Tiipnpow and Chief Mourner. were procured witli difficulty,— only twenty-four of the Tapapow. former lur *ng been received during a residence of seven- teen days. On the Ist of September, our navigator set sail for the Reception island of Huaheine, which he made the next day. Before landing, the king, his ancient friend Oree, sent to the ships the piece of pewter which had been left with him in July 1769. Cook wished to go to this kind- hearted prince ; " but I was told,*' he says, ** that he would come to me ; which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck, and embraced me. This was by no means ceremonious ; the tears which trickled plentifully down his venerable cheeks sufficiently bespoke the language of his hearts" During their short stay the English re- ceived every mark of friendship, and procured no fewer jriendahipi than 300 hogs, besides fowls and fruits. On the 7th, Cook bade adieu to this gentle monarch, leaving with him a small copper plate, with the insciiption, " An- chored here, his Britannic Majesty's Ships Resolution Murk of ■^k im^mmmmmnmf I CUAF. X Omia re- ceived on buard. Oharaaneno iiurbour. Native diamttlc BkilL Vow re pui'suud. 310 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. and Adventure, September ■'V73." Before his depar- ture, Captain Furncaux consented to take on board a young mar named Omai, a native of a neighbouring island. In the opinion of Cook at that time, " he was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank, nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion." The ships reached Ulietea the same evening, and spent the night in beating off and on the island, guided by the lights of the fishei*s on the reefs and shores. On the morning oi:* the 8th. they anchored in the harbour of Ohamaneno, and the natives immediately crowded around them, eager to barter hogs and fruit. The chief, Oreo, displayed a great affection for the Europeans, and grati- fied them with the performance of a keavn. The scenes which most interested them in this rude drama repre- sented a theft, which was accomplished in so dexterous a manner as clearly to indicate the genius of the people. Cook looked for the termination of the piece with some curiosity, — anticipating the death, or at least hearty beating of the culprits ; but in this he was disappointed, both principal and accomplices escaping in triumph with their booiy. At this place he took on board a youth of about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named Oedid^e or Mahir3, a native of Bolabola, and nearly related lo Opoony, the warlike sovereign of that island. The discoverers departed from Ulietea on the l7th, and steered to the west, inclining to the south, that they n ight avoid the tracks of former voyagers, and get intc the latitude of the islands discovered by Tasman and named Middleburgh and Amsterdam,* but now known as two of the principal of the Friendly or Tonga archipelago. On the 23d, in latitude 19"^ 18' S., longi- ttige 168° 54' W., they fell in with two or three small islets, surrounded by breakers, like most of the low isles in this sea, and gave them the appellation of Hervey. On the 2d October, they got. abreast of Middleburgh * See above, p. 125-128. » i SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 311 (called by the inhabitants Eooa), where an immense crowd gave them welcome wiih loud shouts, thronged round the boats, in which they rowed towards the land, ulfered native cloth and other articles in exchange for beads, and seemed more anxious to give than to receiv?. A chief conducted them to his dwelling, which was built on the shore, ** at the head of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock-trees, in a situation which was most delightful." Here they were enter- tained with songs, and invited to join in a cava feast ; but, says Cook, " I was the only one who tasted it ; the manner of brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else,'' The unceasing kindness of the people, who vied w'*h each other in their endeavours to please, made our countrymen regret that the season of the year precluded a longer stay. On the 3d, they weighed anchor, and bore down for Amsterdam or Tongataboo, when they were met mid- way by some canoes. As they sailed along the coast, they observed the natives running on the shore, and displaying small white flags, which, being looked on as tokens of peace, were answered by hoisting a St George's ensign. Cook landed on the 4th, and was conducted over part of the country by a chief called Attago. He was much surpristed by tlie aspect of the island, and could have fancied himself transported into the most fertile plains of Europe. Not a spot of waste ground was to be seen, — the roads took up the least possible space, the fences were not above four inches in breadth, and were often formed^ of some useful plants. " It was,** lie writes, " every where the same ; change of place altered not the scene. Nature, assisted by a little art, nowhere appears in more splendour than at this isle. In these delightful walks we met nurabera of people : some travelling down to the ships with their burdens of fruit ; others returning back empty. They all gave us the road, by turning either to the right or left, and sitting down or standing with their backs to the fences, CHAP. X. Reception at Middleburgh. Native cava feast. Tongataboa Fertile aspect of the island. I .f; ;i;i^ ■. 1 ^?5T ■ipa^a TTntM »»V»^rm>% 312 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP.JL Native confidence. Return to New Zealand. Separation of the Kesolu- tion and Adventure. Prospects of the voyage. till we had passed."* They showed neither distrust nor suspicion of their visiters, whom they permitted freely to ramble wherever curiosity or pleasure invited. In physical peculiarities, in language, and in many arts and customs; political and religious, they bore a striking resemblance to the Society Islanders. As the period for prosecuting his researches in the high southern latitudes now approached, the commander judged it advisable to revisit New Zealand, where wood and water could be procured for the next portion of the voyage. The vessels accordingly quitted Amsterdam on the 7th October, and on the next day made the Pylstaart or Tropic- bird Island of Tasmai), In latitude 22'* 26' S., and longitude 176° 69' W. On the 2l8t, they descried the land of . t . Zealand ; but, in consequence of baffling winds and dangerous gales, in one of which the Adventure was lost sight of, Cook did not reach the rendezvous in Queen Charlotte's Sound till the 3d November. Here he remained noie than three weeks without any tidings of his consort j and henceforward, as they did not again meet, our at* tention must be confined to the solitary course of the Resolution. Notwithstanding the absence of their former attendant, the commander assures us that his crew, far from being dejected, looked as cheerfully on their expedition to the south " as if the Adventure, or even more ships, had been in company." Accordin i,o Mr Forster, however, as the expectation of meeting '. . . new lands had become faint, a cruise to the south, oPc*; so full of promise, appeared no. longer inviting. " h any thing," says he, " alleviated the dreariness of the prospect with a great part of our shipmates, it was the hope of completing the circle round the South Pole, in a high latitude, during the next inhospitable summer, and of returning to England within the space of eight months." •[• ♦ Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. i. ^ 20L t Forster's Voyage, vol. L p. 626. SECOKD CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 313 Ijd Iv le le in ler, rht '* This navigation was perhaps one of the dullest ever chap. X. performed. The voyagers left New ZerJand on the KetunTto 26th November, and steered to the south, inclining to the suutii. the east, with a favoarable wind. On the evening of the 6th December, they calculated themselves to be at the antipodes of London.* Ice was first seen on the 12th, in latitude 62° 10' S., longitude 172° W., being 11° 30' farther south than that first met with in the pre- ceding year ; and on the same day an antarctic petrel, gray albatrosses, and some other birds, were observed. On the 14th, several ice-islands and a quantity of loose ice island*. ice occurred ; and these became more numerous as the course to the south-east by east was pui-sued. Next morning, there appeared an immense field, through the partitions of which it was not deemed safe to venture into " a clear sea beyond," as the wind would not have permitted return. A stretch to the north, with some tacks, was therefore made, but not without very great risk from the floating islands. On the 22 !, they had attained a higher parallel than they had before reached, 67^ 31' S., in longitude 142° 54' W. ; but next day, in a little lower latitude, another quantity of ice wholly obstructed the passage to the south. At this time the cold was most inteube, and there was a strong gale at Intense old, north, attended with snow and sleet, which froze to the ""J^J^' ''"^ rigging as it fell, and made th'- ropes like wires. Ad- vancing to the north-east, the ice-islands were found to increase in number, nearly a hundred of them being seen at noon of the 24th, besides an immense quantity of small pieces ; but, by taking advantage of every light • "We are the first Europeans," says Mr Forster, "and, I be- lieve I may add, the first human beings who have reached this point, where it is probable none will come ai'ter us. A common report pre. Tails, indeed, in England, concerning Sir Francis Drake, who is said to have visited ttie antipodes, which the legend expresses, by < his having passed under the middh arch of London Brid^^e;' but (his is a mistake, as his track lay along the coast of America, and probably originates from his having passed the perioed, or the point in i8U° longitude, on the same circle of north latitude, on the coast of Cbliforoia." — Voyage, vol. i. p. 627. i I 1 t ''I I , ! I? mm !VnR^ I IIM < i l CHAP. X A Christmas fcaat SIcknt the crew. Abandon- ment of further research. 314 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. air to drift along with them, a tolerably easy berth was obtained, in which, nearly in the same manner as during the voyage of the previous year, our navigators held their Christmas feast. They were fortunate at this time in having continual daylight and clear weather, for " had it been as foggy as on some of the- preceding days, nothing less than a miracle," says Cook, " could have saved us from being dashed to pieces." Still the dangers of the situation were so great, that on the 26th, in lati- tude 6(5° 16', it was judged prudent to make another trip towards the north, and, by the 9th January 1774, he found himself in latitude 48° 17', in longitude 127° 10' W. At this period most of his crew were becoming diseased, though not seriously. " A general languor and sickly look were manifested in almost every face," says Mr Forster, " and the captain himself was pale and lean, and had lost all appetite." On the 11th, the course to the south was resumed, and, on the seventh day after, the voyagers were in latitude 61° 9' S., longi- tude 116' 7' W. They crossed for the third time the antarctic circle on the 26th, and on the 30th reached the highest southern latitude which had been then at- tained by f ny discoverer, namely, 71° 10', in west longi- tude 106° 64'.* The obstacles which arrested Cook's farther progress, and the reasons which induced him to abandon any at- tempt in other directions, cannot be better stated than in his own words : — " At four o'clock in the morning, we perceived the clouds, over the horizon to the south, to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, which we knew announced our approach to field-ice. Soon after it was seen from the top mast-head, and at eight o'clock we were close to its edge. It extended east and west, * Only one navi^tnr hes penetrated beyond this point. On the 20th February 1822, Captain Weddel reached the latitude of 74" 15', in the longitude of 34° 16' 45" W. In this situation no land was visible, and only four ice-islands were in si^ht ; but the wind blowing fresh at south prevented his farther progress, and he was reluctantly constrained to return. — Weddel's Voyage towards the South Pole, p. 37. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 315 far beyond the reach of our sight. . . . Ninety- seven ice-hills were distinctly seen within the field, besides those on the outside ; many of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, rising one above another till they were lost in the clouds. The outer or northern edge of this immense field was com- posed of loose or broken ice close packed together, so that it was not possible for any thing to enter it. This was about a mile broad, within which was solid ice in one continued compact body. It was rather low and flat (except the hills), but seemed to increase in height as you traced it to the south, in which direction it extended beyond our sight. I will not say it was im- possible any where to get farther to the south ; but the attempting it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and what, I believe, no man in my situation would have thought of. It was, indeed, my opinion, as well as the opinion of most on board, that this ice ex- tended quite to the pole, or perhaps joined to some land, to which it had been fixed from the earliest time ; and that it is here, that is to the south of this parallel, where all the ice we find scattered up and down to the north, is first formed, and afterwards broken off by gales ot wind or other causes, and brought to the north by the currents, which we always found to set in that direction in the high latitudes. As we drew near this ice some penguins were heard, but none seen ; and but few other birds, or any other thing that could induce us to think any land was near. And yet I think there must be some to the south behind this ice : but if there is, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. I, who had ambition not only to go farther than any one Iiad been before, but as far as it was possible for man to go, was not sorry at meeting with this interrup- tion, as it, in some measure, relieved us, at least shortened the dangers and hardships inseparable from the naviga- tion of the southern polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther to the south, no CHAP. X. Appearance of the ice. Supposed source of southern icebcr^'Si ImposflibiHty of further progress. ^????" ^!i . > .| ! . P »,.^ iW JIUI. ■iH H liI 316 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. X. Opinions as to tho pro- vpect of discovery. Search of new land. : I Dan pe. JUS illneiiS of Cook. ," he continues, " at this time, to have quitted this , with a good ship expressly sent out on discoveries, other reason need be assigned for my tacking and stand- ing back to the north." * On the 4th of February, he found himself in latitude 66° 42' S. and longitude 99° 44' W., and though now convinced that there was no continent except in ex- tremely high latitudes, he was of opinion that " there remained, nevertheless, room for very large islands in places wholly unexamined ; and that many of those which were formerly discovered are but imperfectly ex- plored, and their situations as imperfectly known. For me, sea a healthy crew, and not in want either of stores or of provisions, would have been betraying, not only a want of perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing the South Pacific Ocean to have been so well explored that nothing remained to be done in it." He therefore resolved to proceed in search, first, of the land said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez towards the end of the sixteenth century, then of Davis' Land or Easter Island of Roggewein ; and, finally, of the Aus- tralia del Espiritu Santo of Quiros.f Cook had for some time concealed from every person on board a dangerous obstruction of his bowels, and en- deavoured to overcome it by taking hardly any sus- tenance ; but this treatment aggravated rather than removed the malady, the symptoms of which at length, when he had reached a more northern latitude, were so alarming that his life was in danger. The disease fortu- nately abated after a week's confinement to his couch ; but still so great was his debility, that no one could doubt the urgency of hastening to a place of refreshment as the only chance of preserving hia existence. He speaks of his own condition at this time very briefly. " I was now taken ill of the bilious colic, which was so violent as to confine me to my bed ; so that the man- * Voyfiffe towards the South Pole, vol. i. pp. 267, 268. t See above, pp. 72, 73; pp. 131 and 142 147; and p. 97-9y. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 31/ agement of the sliip was left to Mr Cooper, the first CHAP, x officer, who conducted her very much to my satisfaction, j, — It was several days before the most dangerous symptoms of the of my disorder were removed When I c«'n'°">der. began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr Forster fell a sacrifice to my tender stomach ; and I could eat of this fiesh, as well as broth made of it, when I could taste nothing else." * On the 26th February he was in latitude 37° 62' S., and west longitude 101° 10' ; and having now crossed his track to Otaheite in 1769^ he was satisfied that the large and fertile land, " richer than Peru," said to have been visited by Fernandez, could be no more than a small island, if indeed any such discovery was ever made. He then stood away to the north to get into the latitude of Easter Island, which had been unsuccess- fully sought by Byron, Carteret, and Bougainville. On the morning of the llth of March, in latitude 27° 6' 30" S., longitude 109° 46' 20" W., land was descried from Discovery of the mast-head, and by noon Cook had no doubt it was '*"**• that discovered by Edward Davis in 1687. " The joy," says Forster, " which this fortunate %vent spread on every countenance is scarcely to be described. We had been a hundred and three days out of sight of land ; and the rigorous weather to the south, the fatigues of con- tinual attendance during storms, or amidst dangerous masses of ice, the sudden changes of climate, and the long continuance of a noxious diet, all together had emaciated and worn out our crew."t A landing was effected on the 14th, and the natives interview behaved in a peaceable manner, though expert and daring thieves ; they appeared to know the fatal powers of the musket, which they regarded with much awe, — arising probably from traditionary accounts of Rogge- wein's visit. The commander was, however, disappointed to find, that though there were several plantations of ! ' Wth nativcSi I * Voyage towards the Soiith Pole, vol. i. p. 274. + Forster's Voyajje, vol. L'p. 652. ''mmmmit ■•■^ II I HH I H I lanp ■'mmmmm CHAP. X. Inferior ac- commoda- tion. Scarcity of proviaiouai Native stature. Singular Mouuiucnta. 318 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. sweet potatoes, plantnins, and sugar-canes, few places could afford less accommodation. There was no secure anchoring-ground, no wood, and only a scanty supply of fresh water of the most wretched quality ; even fisli were so rare that none could be caught, at least with hook and line ; while both land and sea birds were very scarce, and except a few small fowls and some rats, sup- posed to be eaten by the natives, no animal food was to be had. In his opinion, nothing will ever induce ships to tcuch at this island but the utmost distress. The inhabitants, whose numbers he estimated at 600 or 700, resembled in many respects those of the isles towards the west, but had made less progress in some of the arts, and were worse provided with huts and household uten- sils. Their affinity to the other tribes of Polynesia at the same time was so striking, " that,'* we are assured, " no one will doubt that they have had the same origin." It was not observed that any man reached the stature of six feet ; *^ so far are they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's voyage asserts." Only three or four canoes, very mean, and built of many pieces sewed together with small line, were seen in the island. They bad outriggers, in the manner so common in the South Sea, but were small, and by no means fit for distant navigation. Cook saw only two or three of the statues described by the Dutch, but some of his companions who travelled over the country observed many more. They were from fifteen to twenty-seven feet in height, and from Hx to nine in breadth over the shoulders ; and each had on its head a large cylindric block of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The stone of which they were made was gray, and seemingly different from any naturally belonging to the island. The carving at the upper part, which commonly represented a sort of human head and bust, was rude but not altogether con- temptible : in particular, the nose and chin were pretty fairly delineated, while the ears were long beyond pro- portion ; and, in the bodies, there was hardly any re- 1 SECOND CIRCUMNAYIGATIOK OF C00&. 31 9 n CUAP. X. { Monumentt on Euter IikuM) bemblance to the human figure. Their magnitude was Supposed such as to make their erection a subject of perplexity, 'j*,JiTOe?°!cft especially when it was considered how little the natives were acquainted with the mechanical powers. In the opinion of Cook, the present inhabitants had no con- cern in rearing them, as even the foundations of some were carelessly suffered to fall into ruin. Besides these monuments of antiquity, many little heaps of stones were piled up along the coast, and some of the savages possessed human figures carved with considerable neat- ness from narrow pieces of wood about two feet long. Of these images, the native of Bolabola, Oedidee, pur- chased several, conceiving they would be much valued in his own country, the workmanship of which they surpassed. The navigators sailed thence on the IGth March, and. Voyajreto favoured by a pleasant breeze, steered to the north-west ^est. to make the Islands Las Marquesas, which had not been visited since their discovery in 1595. Shortly after putting to sea, the commander was afilicted with a re- I 320 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. Fleet of Tin- tive cunoeft CHAP. X currcnce of his bilious disorder ; but its attack was less HooiTwanA violent than formerly. On the 6th of April, in latitude 9° 26' S., and longitude 1 38° 14' W., an island was seen, and named Hood, in honour of the gentleman who first perceived it. Two hours after another appeared ; and when a third was discerned the next morning, every one was satisfied that the cluster was that explored by Mendana.* Cook coasted the south-eastern shore of La Dominica, and, passing through the channel which divides it from Santa Christina, ran along that island in searchof the port Madre dc Diosof his Spanish predecessor, in the entrance of which he anchored on the 7th. Ten or twelve canoes immediately approached from the shore, but some address was required to get them along- side of the vessel. At length, a few presents brought one of them under the quarter-gallery, when the restfollowed ; and, after exchanging bread-fruit and fish for nails, they retired peaceably. Each canoe was observed to have a heap of stones on its bow and every man had a sling tied round his hand. Many more appeared next morn- ing, bringing similar provisions and one pig, which were bartered as before ; but not with perfect honesty, till a musket-ball was fired over the head of one man whose unfairness was conspicuous. A great many of the natives were at this time on board, and the commander, who was then in one of the boats, having been informed of the theft of an iron stanchion, gave orders to fire over the canoe in which the plunderer was making off, but not to kill any one. In the tumult which ensued, his commands, unfortunately, were not distinctly heard, and the depredator was shot dead at the third discharge. The iron was instantly thrown overboard, and the two other persons in the skiff leapt into the sea, though in a short time they clambered again into their vessel. " One of them," says Coc4i> "a man grown, sat baling the blood and water out of the canoe in a kind of hys- teric laugh ; the other, a youth about fourteen or fifteen Unforttinnte collision with the natives. • See above, pp. 79, SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 321 years of age, looked on the deceased with a serious and ciiAP. x, dejected countenance ; we had afterwards reason to j . — believe he was his son." This unhappy event was fol- sumed with lowed by the precipitate retreat of all the savages. Their **•* i"!^*!*-** fears were, however, after a short space, allayed, and for a time barter was carried on with them advantage- ously, — various fruits, pigs, and fowls, being obtained on exceedingly reasonable termsy till the indiscretion of some gentlemen introduced new articles of trade, espe- cially red feathers, collected at the island of Amsterdam. This effectually put an end to the intercourse ; nails and all other things were despised in comparison ; and, in the absence of a sufiicient stock of feathers, there re- mained no alternative but to quit the country. This was a serious mortification to the erew, who had now been nineteen weeks at sea, and confined all that time to a salt diet. So serviceable, however, had the many antiscorbutic articles proved, that at this period there was scarcely one sick person in the ship. On the afternoon of the 11th, Cook departed from Departure Resolution Bay, as he named the harbour where he lioi^Buy*^^'^* had lain, and steered nearly south-west, with a fine wind, till the morning of the l7th, when he fell in with the most easterly of the King George's Islands of Byron, and ascertained its native appellation to be Tiookea. Another of the same group was seen the next day ; and on the 19th, four small and half-overflowed islands were observed, and named after Sir Hugh Palliser. The succeeding evening, a great swell rolling from the south, convinced him that he was now clear of those low lands , on which account, and being favoured by a strong gale, he bore down for Otaheitc. A pleasant voyage, of little more than a day, brought Arrival at them within view of that island, and spread general joy ^taheite. on board. " The forests on the mountains,'* says Mr Forster, " were all clad in fresh foliage, and glowed in many variegated hues. . . . The plains shone forth in the greatest luxuriance of colours, the brightest tints of verdure being profusely lavished upon their fertile I'i 322 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIQATION OF COOK. CllAP. X. Anchor in Mataval fiuy. Abundance of hogs au(! fruit Departure from Otalieite. groves ; in short, the whole called to our mind the de- scription of Cttlypso's enchanted island." The Re8olu> tion anchored in Matavai Bay on the £2d ; and no sooner was her arrival known, than the friendly natives visited their old acquaintances witli every demonstration of gladness. Provisions had become very plentiful dur- ing the eighteen months' absence of the discoverers, and the desire to possess the red feathers, which had been obtained at the Tonga Islands, rose almost to a phrensy among the people. The improvement in the general state of the country surprised even those who had thought most highly of its capabilities, and induced Cook to pro- tract his stay much longer than he originally intended. Hogs were now abundant, fruits of every kind equally so, and industry had displayed itself in the erection of habitations and the construction of an immense number of canoes. Many of the latter were destined for an ex- pedition against Eimeo, which had thrown '>if the yoke of Otaheite ; and our countrymen had f oportunity of witnessing a grand naval review of th , ?r part of the island-forces. The war-canoes, each from fifty to ninety feet long, and double or joined together by strong transverse beams, amounted to 160 ; and of smaller craft, designed, it was supposed, to ser^re as transports or victuallers, there were 170 ; in all 330 vessels, carrying, by Cook's calculation, 7760 men, warriors and rowers. The former wore vast quantities of cloth, turbans, breastplates, and helmets ; and their weapons were clubs, spears, and stones. Having executed those repairs on his vessel which the tempestuous weather of the high southern latitudes had rendered necessary, he again set sail from Otaheite on the 14th of May. As the ship was clearing the bay, one of the gunner's mates, who had determined to re- main in the island, slipped overboard with the intention of swimming to the shore, but was instantly taken up. " When," says the commander, " I considered this man's situation in life, I did not think the resolution he had taken so extraordinary as it may at first appear. . . SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 323 Attempted desertion of rcnnner'f mate. R< optiDn lit Uualiuinu I never learnt that he had cither friends or connexions chap. x. to confine him to any particular part of the world ; all nations were alike to him. Where, then, could such a man be more happy, than at one of these isles, where, in one of the finest climates in the world, he could en- joy, not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in ease and plenty!"* On the afternoon of the next day, the English an- chored at Huaheine, where they found tlie old chief Oree as kind as ever. When paying him a farewell visit. Cook told him that they would meet no more ; on which he burat into tears, and said, ** Let your sons come ; we will treat them well." The commander esteemed him as " a good man, in the utmost sense of the word," but surrounded by peraons of less worth, some of whom took advantage of his old age, and, en- couraged by the carelessness of many of our voyagers, committed acts of violence, " which no man at Otaheite ever durst attempt." Leaving this on the 23d, a few hours brought the vessel to Ulietea, where she anchored on the following morning. Cook speaks with great feeling of the hospi. table manner in which he was treated at this island, more especially by Oreo and his family. At parting, he writes, " the chief, his wife, and daughter, but especially the two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping His last request was for me to return : when he saw he * Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. i. p. 346. These re- flections may perhaps recall to the recollection of the reader a pass* a^^ In T.'.e Island : — " Men without country, who, too lonjr estranfrpd. Had found no native home, or found it changed, And, half uncivilized, preferr'd the cave Of some soft savage to the uncertain wave, — The gushing fruits that nature gave untili'd ; * The wood without a path but where they will'd ; The field o'er which promiscuous Plenty pour*d Her horn ; the equal land without a lord ; The earth, whose mine was on its face, unsold. The glowing sun and produce all its gold." Byron's Works, vol. xiv. p. 3(!2. Hospitable treatment ut Ulietea. I I 324 SECOND CIRCU31N^VI0ATI0N OP COOK. CHAP. X could not obtain that promise, he asked the name of my Singnia* marai (buryfng-place). As strange a question as thia inquiry. was, I hesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney, the parish in which I live when in London. I was made to repeat it several times over till they could pronounce it ; then, * Stepney marai no Toote/ \/as echoed through a hundred mouths at once. I afterwards found the same question liad been put to Mr Forster by a man on shore ; but he gave a different, and indeed more proper answer, by saying, no man who used the sea could say where he should be burled. What greater proof could we have of these people esteeming us as friends, than their wishing to remember us even beyond the period of our lives ! They had beer repeatedly told that we should see .hem no more ; they then wanted to know where we were to mingle with our parent dust." * He quitted Ulictea on the 5th June, leaving Oedidec behind him, to their mutual regret. Final depar. At one time he intended to visit Bolabola, but this Sode^™™ ''" design was abandoned for want of leisure ; and " taking Islands. a final leave of these happy isles, on which benevolent Nature has spread her luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand,'* he directed his course to the west. On the next morning, he fell in with the Howe Island of Wallis, and following a track a little more to the south, in ten days he found another insular reef, which he named after Lord Palmerston. On the 20th, he saw one that was inhabited, and from the indomitable fierceness of the people, through which even his life was in danger, denominated it Savage, it lies in lati- tuc'e 19° 1' S., longitude 169° 37' W., is about eleven leagues in compass, of a circular form, and has deep water close to its shores. Favoured by a gentle trade- wind, the Resolution pursued her route to the south- west, and passing, on the 25th, through various islets, several of which were connected by breakers or reefs of rocks, anchored on the succeeding day about a mile * VoYa;;e towards the South Pole, vol. L p. 373. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 'S'Jb CHAP. X. from the northern shore of Annamooka or Rotterdam, one of the Friendly or Tonga group. Here the gallant „ officer experienced no small trouble from the dishonesty disiionesty. of the natives, which he was obliged to check by prompt and severe measures, — seizing some of their canoes, and firing small shot at one of the most resolute of the culprits, who, besides trifling articles, had pos- sessed themselves of two muskets. These were forth- with given up, and mutual good feelings restored. The productions of this place were found to be the same as those of Eooa or Amsterdam ; but hogs and fowls, with some kinds of fruit, were not so plentiful : there seemed also to be more waste land, and the people generally were poorer. He departed from Annamooka on the 29th, and steered to the south-west, passing between two islands of the same group, of which the native titles are Kao and Tofooa. Continuing his course to the Turtle Island. west, on the 1st of July he fell in with an island about a league in length and half that extent in width, situated in latitude 19° 48' S., and longitude 178"' 2' W. He named it Turtle Island, and its few inhabitants, though armed with clubs and spears, fled at the approach of a boat. For thirteen days the Resolution held on her westerly Discovery of, track, followed by strong and steady gales. On 16th July, the weather changed, the sky became foggy, the wind blew in heavy squalls, and was attended with rain, signs which, within the tropics, generally indicate the neighbourhood of some mountainous country. On the same afternoon, high land was seen bearing south-west, an<l " no one doubted that this was the Australia del Espi.itu Santo of Quiroa," — L*Archipel des Grandes Cyciades of Bougainville.* Cook sailed round the north end of the He Aurore of his French predecessor ; and during the 18th continued to ply be- tween it and L'Isle des Lepreux. On the 20th, he stretched across to He de la Pentecote, and passing an- r if thfi ^'"^ "® •""^ Aurore. * Sec above, p. 224-227. fmrnm 326 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. MallicoUo Island. Arpearunce of the nntives. CHAP. X. other called by the natives Ambry m, anchored the next day on the north-east side of an island, of which he discovered the name to be MallicoUo,* The natives were evidently of a race in every respect different from the inhabitants of any of the countries he had yet visited, " They were," says he, " the moot ugly ill- propoitioned people I ever saw ;" their stature was di- minutive ; they had " flat faces and monkey counten- ances ;'* their complexion was very dark, and their hair short and curly. But few women were seen, and these had their heads, shoulders, and faces, painted of a red colour. The languaf^e spoken was distinct from that of the other South Sea Islands : " Of eighty words," writes Cook, " which Mr Forster collected, hardly one bears any affinity to the tongue of any other place I had ever been at." From hence, on the 23d, he pro- ceeded towards the south, inclining eastwards, till, hav- ing passed Ambrym, Paoom, Apee, Monument, Three Hills, Shepherd's, Montagu, Hinchinbrook, and Sand- wich Islands, he anchored on the dd of August on the south-east side of Erromango, The treachery of the natives led to a skirmish, in which some of them lost their lives ; and the following evening, he sailed for the neighbouring island of Tanna, where he found an anchor- age on the 5th, The next day, the ship was moored close to the shore, so as to afford to the landing-place and to the whole harbour the protection of her artillery. Some thousands of the inhabitants were drawn up on the beacli, evidently with hostile intentions ; but the dis- charge of a few guns speedily dispersed them, and the voyagers, though watched with strict jealousy, were allowed to explore the country in peace. The natives were considered as a distinct race from those of Malli- coUo or of Erromango ; they were of the middle size, Sklrmi-h witli the n.itivps • " Some of our people," it is added, " pronounced it ManiroU* or Manicola." — Voyage towards the South Pole, vol, ii. p. 32. There can be no doubt that it is the same country of which Quir(»» leceived tidings from tiie diiuf of Taumaco. See above, p. U?. SECOND ClRCCMNATiGATlON OP COOjJ. 327 CHAP. X. Man of the Island of '1 anna* rather slender Mimble and active, and having for theLanctiaRo most part goiM* features and pleasing countenances, ""^^jjl!^*®* They were found to possess two language . ; the one, peculiar, it was understood, to themstlvcs and to the inhabitants of Erromango aiul Annatom, the other the same with that of the Tonga group. Their omplexion was very dark, their hair for the rnost part black or brown, of considerable length, av \ crisp and curly. " They separate it," we are told, " into small locks, which they woold or cue round with the rind of a slender plant, down to about an inch '' aie ends ; and as the hair grows, the woolding is conunued. Each of these cues or locks is somewhat thicker than common whip-cord ; and they look like a parcel of small strings hanging down from the crown of their heads," * They • Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii. p. 7H X •■1 i l' I 1 it ;. ■pMPVwta i 328 CHAP. X. Native arms. New Hebrides Islands. Luxuriant TCt^etation. Savvey cuoipleted. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. were amied with clubs, spears or darts, bows and arrows, and staves, and wore bracelets of marine shells or cocoa- nuts, ear-rings of tortoiseshell, necklaces and amulets of a greenish stone. Having taken in a large supply of wood and water. Cook made sail on the 20th with a fresh breeze, and stretched to the south ; but, seeing no more land in that direction, he altered his course and steered north-north- west along the eastern shores of I'anna, Erromango, Sandwich, and MallicoUo. The night of the 23d found him in Bougainville's Passage ; and on the 25th, he entered a large and spacious harbour, which he was convinced was that named by Quiros San Felipe y San- tiago.* The port of La Vera Cruz was recognised in the anchorage at the head of the bay, one of the two rivers mentioned by the Spaniards was visited, " and, if we were not deceived," says Cook, " we saw the other. . . . . An uncommonly luxuriant vegetation was every where to be seen ; the sides of the hills were check- ered with plantations, and eveiy valley watered by a stream. The columns of smoke we saw by day, and the fires by night all over the country, led us to believe that it is well inhabited and very fertile." By the 31 st, he had circumnavigated the island, which proved to be the largest and most western of the cluster ; it was sixty leagues in circuit, and the name of Tierra del Espiritu Santo was given to this, " the only remains of Quiros' continent." The survey being now completed, the group was found to extend from latitude 14° 29' to 20° 4' S., and from longitude 166° 41' to 170° 21' E., 126 leagues in the direction of north-north-west half west, and south-south-east half east. " As, besides ascertain- ing the extent and situation of these islands," he remarks, " we added to them several new ones, and explored the whole, I think we have obtained a right to name them, and shall in future distinguish them by the name of the New Hebrides." t • See above, pp. 97i 98- f Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii. pp. 93, 94, 96. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 329 Appearance Having spent more than forty days in examining this chap. x. archipelago, he made sail f -om it on the Ist of Sep- — tember, and with a steady wind stood to the south-west, of New^'^ On the 4th, he came in sight of an extensive coast beset Cuiedonio. with reefs, on which the sea broke with great violence. A passage through this dangerous barrier having been discovered, he came to an anchor on the 6th, when his ship was immediately surrounded by a great number of natives in sixteen or eighteen canoes. They were of a peaceable and friendly disposition, and offered no oppo- sition to a landing; which was effected in the afternoon. The country much resembled some parts of New Holland ; the hills and uplands were rocky, and incapable of culti- vation ; the thin soil which covered them being scorched and burnt ; and, " indeed," we are informed, " were it not for some fertile spots on the plains, and a few on the sides of the mountains, the whole country might be called a dreary waste." The natives were robust and well made, in colour nearly approaching those of Tanna, of the but surpassing them in stature, and having finer features "**'^^* and more agreeable courtenances. Their language ap- peared to have many words in common with that used in New Zealand, in the Tonga Islands, and in Tanna. In affability and honesty, they excelled the people of any place yet visited. On the 13th, Cook quitted his anchorage, and for Dangerous two days sailed to the north-west, when, finding a ter- "^^'K'^"""- mination to the land in that direction, and a reef ex- tending as far as the eye could reach, he altered his course to the south-east, and again came in sight of the coast on the 17th. He ran rapidly along it, and, on the 23d, reached its south-eastern extremity, which was called Queen Charlotte's Foreland. In attempting to get round this point, some islands were discovered stretching in the same direction as the mainland ; the largest received the name of the Isle of Pines, while the designation of Botany was conferred upon one on which a party landed. The whole of this survey was attended with the greatest danger ; and, consideiing the vast rl 830 SECOND OIRCUMNAVIGATIOM OP COOK. CHAP. X- il Partial exploratioa Voyage re- newed Man of New Zealand* extent of sea yet to be investigated, the state of hia vessel and her crew, and the near approach of summer, our navigator, to use his own expression, was obliged, •* as it were by necessity, for the first time, to leave a coast he had discovered, before it was fully explored." lie gave it the appellation of New Caledonia, and fixed its position between latitude 19° 37' and 22° 30' S., and west longitude 163° 37' and 167° 14'. With the excep- tion of New Zealand, it exceeds in size all the islands of the Austral Ocean, extending in length about eighty- seven leagues, though nowhere more than ten in breadth.* He lost sight of land on the 1st of October, and pur- sued his course to the south till the morning of the 10th, when in latitude 29° 2' 30" S., longitude 168° 16' E., • Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii. p. 103-145, Forster's Voyage, vol. ii. p. 377 442. 1 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF COOK. 331 he discovered an island to which the name of Norfolk chap. K. was applied. It was of considerable height and about norfoiiT five leagues in circuit, fertile and luxuriantly wooded, island. but uninhabited, and our voyagers were, perhaps, the first that ever set foot upon its shores. On the I7th, they came in sight of New Zealand, and New Zealand could distingu ish the summit of Mount Egmont " covered with everlasting snow." The next day, they anchored in Queen Charlotte's Sound, for the third time, nearly eleven months after their former visit. Immediately on landing, they looked for a bottle, containing a me- morandum which had been left for Captain Fumeaux. It was removed, and circumstances soon occurred which showed that the Adventure had been here ; while, from conversing with the natives, of whom only a few ap- peared, and those in a state of unusual timidity, it was inferred that some calamity had befallen her crew. On the 10th of November, Cook departed from New Course d«?ter- Zealand, and with all sails set steered south by east, °^ned on. to get into the latitude of 64° or 65° S., with the view of crossing the Pacific nearly in these parallels, and thus exploring those parts left unnavigated in the pre- vious summer. On the 27th, he was in latitude 66° 6' and longitude 138° 66' W., when, abandoning all hope of finding land, he determined to steer directly for the western mouth of the Straits of Magellan, which he reached on the 18th of December. With the ex- ception of that achieved by his colleague, of which he was then ignorant, this was the first run directly across Run di'wtiy the Pacific in a high southern latitude. " And 1 must p^clflj***^ observe," he writes, ** that I never made a passage any where of such length, or even much shorter, where so few interesting circumstances occuiTed ; for, if I except the variation of the compass, I know of nothing else worth notice I have now done with the Southern Pacific Ocean, and flatter myself that no one will think that I have left it unexplored ; or that more could have been done in one voyage, towards obtaining that end, than has been done in this." * • Voyages towards tlie South Pole, vol. ii. pp. 170, 171* '' I '^^^mmm'^'sm'm! 332 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. X, The southern shores of Tierra del Fuego, and the Chri^s Strait of Le Maire, being still very imperfectly known, dayntTiemhe now resolved to survey them. On the 20th, he del Fuego. anchored in a large liarbour, which received the name of Christmas, from his keeping that festival there. " Roast and boiled geese," he remarks, " and goose-pie, was a treat little known to us, and we had yet some Madeira wine left ; so that our friends in England did not perhaps celebrate the day more cheerfully than we did." Cape Horn was doubled on the 29th, and, two days after, the Resolution anchored off Staten Land. Survey of the Having explored those dreary regions. Cook proceed- Atiam™ ^^ *<* examine the southern part of the Atlantic, in search of an extensive country, laid down in Mr Dai- ry m pie's chart of the ocean between Africa and America. This new enterprise commenced on the 3d January 1775. On the 6th, he found himself in latitude 68° 9' S., longitude 53° 14' W., nearly in the situation assigned to the south-western point of the Gulf of St Sebastian in this supposed shore. Perceiving no sign of land, he altered his course to the north, looking out for the coast discovered by I " Roche in 1676,* and revisited by the Spanish ship Lieon in 1756. On the 12th, in latitude 54° 28' S., longitude 42" 8' W., nearly three degrees east of the north-eastern point of the fancied gulf, he experienced a swell from east-south-east, which he deemed sufticient proof that no considerable land existed in that direction. On the 14th, a small rocky islet was seen, and the next day a more extensive region presented itself at the distance of eight leagues. It was covered with snow, and offered several bays or inlets, in which large masses of ice were observed. * See above, p. 130. It has I)een already incidentally stated (p. 215, note), that the French navigator, Duperrey, is of opinion that La Roche was anticipated in his discovery by Amerigo Ves- pucci ; but this hypothesis seems more unfounded even than that stated by Bougauiville. With much more probability says Don M. F. de Navarrete, " Esta tierra pudo ser al^j^una de las islas de Tristan de Acuna, de Diejro Alvarez 6 la de Gouhs." — Coleccion de Via^s y Oe8cubrimianto« (Madrid. 1829 J* vol. iii. p^ 2/8, note. New Sonth Georgia. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 333 He landed on the I7th, and, displaying the ship's colours CIIAP. X. amid a discharge of sinali arms, took possession of the Dggoj^ island by the title of New South Georgia. It was appearance found to be about seventy leagues in circuit, but utterly ° *'*® '" *" desolate, covered with frozen snoWyand without a stream of water. Quitting this " poor apology for a continent" on the southern 25th, he stood to the south-east, and on the 27th had '^^^^^ attained the latitude of 60° S., where he met with a long hollow swell from the west, — a decisive sign of an open sea in that direction. Four days later, land was discovered at the distance of three or four miles ; it proved to be three rocky islets, and over tlie outer- most there appeared " an elevated shore,, whose lofty snow-clad summits were seen above the cloudL" A coast of the same nature which was shortly after per- ceived still farther to the south, received the appellation of Southern Thule, and was considered to be in latitude 69" 13' 30" S., longitude 27° 46' W. On the next morning, a new territory was descried to the north, and other portions were observed on succeeding days. Cook gave to his discovery the name of Sandwich Land, Sandwich though he was uncertain whether the whole were a^''*"*^* group of islands or the point of a continent ; " for I firmly believe," lie says, " that there is a tract of land near the Pole, which is the source of most of the ice that is spread over this vast Southern Ocean." He was anxious to clear up this question ; but he felt that he could not justify himself in now encountering the hazards of thick fogs, snow-storms, intense cold, islands or mountains of ice, a sea unknown and almost un- navigable, and risking all that he had done for the sake of exploring so dreary a country, "which, when dis- covered, would have answered no end whatever, or been of the least use either to navigation or geography." * The condition of his ship and company, after thei. * Modern discoverv has fthown that Saudwicii Land is a cluster of small islands. ill a34 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. CHAP. X. lengthened voyage, almost precluded the hope of success, even had the inducement been greater. Search for On the 6th February, accordingly, he made sail Cn^ncis^on. towards the east, in order to renew his search for the Cape de la Circoncision. He held on in the same direction till the 22d of February, when he found that he had run down thirteen degrees of longitude in the very latitude assigned to Bouvet's discovery, and had crossed his own track of 1772. Being now only about forty miles from his route to the south when he departed from Table Bay, he considered it unnecessary to pro- ceed any farther eastwards, as he had already satisfied himself in that quarter. " Having now," he says, Conciustons *' run over the place where the land was supposed to lie, without seeing the least signs of any, it was no longer to be doubted but that the ice-islands had de- ceived M. Bouvet ;" * and he accordingly determined to yield to the general wish of his companions and get arrived at Siihsoqnent discovery of Cape de la Circoncision. • Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii. p. 238. The opinion here expressed by Cook, though not unopposed by some trench writers, received the general sanction of geop^phers ; but, after a lapse of more than thirty years, the cape seen by Bouvet was a^^in accidentally discovered. On the 6th October IBUB, two English whalers, in latitude 5'i" 58' S., and about the lonu^itude of 'd ' 65' E., came in sight of an island about five leagues in length. It was covered with snow and surrounded by ice, and no doubt could be entertained of its identity with Cape de la Circoncision. — fiurney, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. t. p. 35-37. Cook's nearest approach to it was on the IJth February 1773, in the latitude of 54" 20' S., and longitude of 6' 33' E., when he had *^a prodigious high sea from the south, which assured us no land was near in that direc- tion." — Voyage, p. 235> In fact, at this time Douvet's discovery lay to the northward. It may be remarked, that, on another occa- sion. Cook was in the vicinity of land in the South Atlantic Ocean without perceiving any signs of its existence. On the 17th of Jan- uary 1773, he was in latitude 67^ 15' S., and longitude 39 ' 35' E., not far to the south-east of Enderby's Land, discovered on the 27th February 1831, by Captain Biscoe, in the brig Tula, in latitude bo" 57' S., and longitude 47" 20' E. Eight days previous to his dis. covery, Captain Biscoe informs us that he " crossed Cook's track in 17/3, and found the field-ice precisely in the position in which he left it." — Journal of the Royal Geogra|)iiical Society, vol. iii. p. 108. Bulletin de la Societe de Geographie, tome xx. No. cxxiv. (Aout 1833), p. 71' — Nouvelies Annales des Voyages, tome xxix, p. 303L SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 335 into port as soon as possible. From latitude 88** 88' S., chap. x. in longitude 23^ 37' E., on the 13th March, he steered — for the Cape of Good Hope, which ho made after a voyage of eight days. Here he found a letter from his colleague, who had Arrivni at reached this colony about a year before. It cleared up Good'ijope' the mystery which had perplexed Cook on his last visit to New Zealand, by acquainting him that a boat's crew, ten in number, had been massacred at Queen Charlotte's Sound by the savages, who, not content with an indis- criminate butchery, had feasted on the mangled remains of their victims. After this unfortunate calamity. Captain Furneaux, despairing to meet his consort, ran eastward across the Pacific,* and, doubling Cape Horn, reached Table Bay on the 19th March 1774. The anchorage at the Cape may be regarded as the Extent and termination of Cook's second voyage, during which, J^g^'y^^L reckoning from his departure to his return to this place, he had sailed over no less than 20,000 leagues, — an extent nearly equal to thrice the equatorial circumfer- ence of the earth. In this navigation only four men had been lost out of the whole company, and but one of them by sickness, — a proportion considerably below that shown by the bills of mortality in Europe. Many, indeed, were weakly, and all, it may well be iniagined, in need of refreshment ; but only three required to be sent on shore for the recovery of health, and the rest, state of the by an improvement in diet, speedily regained their usual '^'®** strength. Almost all the sails and tackling of the Re- solution were worn out, though the standing rigging * Durin^i^ this naTiration, hn narrowly .^uissed seein^i^ the islands called South Shetlann (seen by Dirck Gherritzin 1599, rediscoTered ill 1818 by Mr William Smith, in the bri^ William, and fifteen months afterwards by the U. 8. brijf Her^ilia — see Voyages by Edmund Fanning, New York, 1833, p. 428.434) and South Orkneys. ** He passed," says Captain Weddel, '* within forty-five miles of the east end of Shetland, and seventy-five miles of the South Orkneys: hence twenty miles, we may presume, of a more southerly course would have given us a knowledgeof'South Shetland fifty years ago." — V(wa^e towards the South Pole in 1822-24, p. 28. See Bulletin de la Societe de Geographie, tume xvii. p. 58. 336 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. X. Condition of tliu vcaiMiL 4 Reception of C(iol< ut hunia Honours and rewards con- ferred oa liiiu. was still of service. " In all this great run," he states, " which had been made in nil latitudes between 9"* and 71% we sprung neither low-masts, top-mast, lower nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast shroud ; which, with the great care and alilities of my officers, must be owing to the good properties of our ship." He left the Cape on the 27th of April, and, on the 30th of July 1775, anchored at Spithead, having been absent from England three years and eighteen davs. The design of the voyage now completed was, in vast- F'^ss and grandeur, without a parallel in the history of nmritime enterprise ; and never, perhaps, had any expe- dition been conducted with greater skill, perseverance, or success. Cook was received with every mark of approbation and honour ; he was raised to the rank of post-captain, by a commission dated the 9th of August, and three days thereafter be was named captain in Greenwich Hospital, — an appointment which afforded him the means of spending the rest of Ms days in hon- ourable and easy retirement. In February 1776, he was unanimously elected a Fellow of t lie Royal Socitty ; and on the 7th March, the evening of his admission, a communication was read, in which he detailed the means he had employed to preserve the health of his crew in their long and perilous navigation.* For this most * Phil. Trans., vol. Ixvi. p. 402, et sen. In addition to a liberal use of tlie various antiscorbutics rnrnisiied by the Navy and Vic- tualling Boards (see above, p. 295), Cook had recourse to various other arrangements, which he thus details : — " The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordi- nary occasions. By this means they were not so much ex[)Osed to the weather as it' they had been at watch and watch ; and they had (j^eneraliy drj' clothes to shift themselves when they happened to sei wet. Care was also taken to expose them as little as possible. Proper methods were employed to keep their persons, hammocks, bedain^, clothes, &c., constantly clean and dry. Equal pains were taken to keep the ship clean and dry between decks. Once or twice a-week she was aired with fires; and, when this could not be done, she was smoked with g^unpowder, moistened with vinep^r or water. I had also frequently a fire made in an iron pot at the hot. torn of the well, which ^eatly purified the air in the lower parts o< I SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 3^7 valuable and important essay, the council awarded to cii.vr. x. him the Copley Medal ; and on the occasion of its do- deception .it live'y, the president, Sir John Pringle, delivcrc<l a dis- the Uoyai course highly encomiastic of the great discoverer: — ^^^^^'' " If," concluded the worthy baronet, ** Rome decreed the '^ivj,: crown to him who saved tlie life of a single citizen, what wreaths are due to t!u.c man, who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your Transactions the means by which Britain may now, on the most dis- tant voyages, save numbers of her intrepid mariners, who, braving every danger, have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the maritime em- pire of their country \" The account of his first voyage, along with the Arconnt of narrative of the expeditions of Byron, Wallis, and^l^yJl^^ Carteret, had been prepared for publication by Dr Hawkesworth. The manner in which that gentleman executed the charge intrusted to him gave little satis- the ship. To this and cleanliness, as well in the <:hip as amnn^rst the people, too |rreat attention cannot be paid. The least nej^lect occasions a putrid offensive smell below, which nothing but tires will remove ; and if these be not used in time, those smells will he attended with had consequences. *' Proper care was taken of the ship's coppers, so that they were Means for kept constantly clean. The fat, which boiled out of the salt beef and 'ccurinj? tlm pork, I never suffered to be |>;iven to the people, as is custoniarv ; J^^*"" o' t''6 Deinjr of opinion that it promotes the scurvy. 1 never failed to talte "^^ ' in water wherever it was to be procured, even when we did not seem to want it; because I look upon fresh water from on shore to be much more wholesome than that which has been kept some time on board. Of this essential article we were never at an allowance, but had always an abundance for eve^y necessary purpose. I am convinced, that with plenty of fresh water, and a close attention to cleanliness, a ship's company will seldom f'<e much afflicted with the scurvy, thoiijch they should not be provided with any of the anti- scorbutics mentioned. " We came to few places where either the art of man or nature did not afford some sort of refreshment or other, either of the ani- mal or vefjretable kind. It was my first care to procure what could be met with of either by every means in my power, and to ohlijre our people to make use thereof, both by my example and authority ; but the benefits arisintr from such refreshments soon becfne so ob- vious, that I had little occasiin to employ either the one or the oilier." «■ mm 838 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. -; t CHAP. X. Preparation of the narra- tive of the second voyage. ] Modesty of the author. Omid. Moderate knowledge oi Englislu faction ; and on this occasion it was deemed more advisable that the history of the enterprise should be written by him who had so ably conducted it. In submitting his work to the public, Cook considered it necessary to plead in excuse for any inaccuracies of CO u position, or deficiencies in the elegance of style, which might be observed in his narrative, " that it was the production of a man who had not had the aivan- tage of much school-education, but who had been con- stantly at sea since his youth ; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, he had passed through all the stations belonging to a seaman, from an apprentice- boy in the coal-trade to a post-captain in the royal navy, he had had no opportunity of cultivating letters." But, in truth, the " Voyage towards the South Pole" stands in no need of such an apology. The sentiments and reflections are in every instance just, manly, and saga- cious ; the descriptions are clear and graphic ; and the style is free from affectation, — plain, flowing, and ex- pressive. Omai, the native of Ulietea whom Captain Fumeaux took on board at Huaheine, was the first inhabitant of the South Sea Islands seen in Britain, where his presence naturally excited intense curiosity. He was at once introduced into the highest circles, and patronised by the rank, fashion, and beauty of the metropolis. He was honoured by an interview with his Majesty George III., who settled on him a pension during his residence in this country, and made him several presents. He does not seem to have attained to great proficiency in the English language ; but, by the aid of signs and gestures, he was able to make himself generally under- stood, and in a short time acquired such a knowledge of the town, that he could traverse it without guide or in- terpreter. For the opera, which had so many charms for the Otaheitan brought to Paris by Bougainville, he appears to have cared little. But we are assured by Madame D'Arblay, that nothing could be more curious or less pleasing than one of the songs of his native land^ ^m SECOND CIRCUMNATIOATION OP COOK. 339 which he chanted in the presence of her father : "Voice CHAP- X. he had none ; and tune or air did not seem to be even unmusical aimed at, either by composer or performer ; *twas a "ona* mere queer, wild, and strange rumbling of uncouth sounds. His music, Dr Bumey declared, was all that he had about him of savage."* The ease and grace of his manners, indeed, excited much wonder. With the talent for mimicry which is characteristic of his nation, he readily copied the forms of the society in which he mixed ; and as his intercourse was with the most re- fined circles, he imitated only admired and elegant models. Dr Johnson, whose vision, however, was none Dr. Johnson's of the keenest, tells us, that dining at Streatham with ** *®"^*^'*"* Lord Mulgrave and the Ulietean, '* they sat with their backs t ) the light fronting me, so that I could not see distinctly ; and there was so little of the savage in Omai, that I was afraid to speak to either, lest I should mistake one for the other." t We are informed by another writer, that the island-barbarian was frequently contrasted with Mr Stanhope (the son of Lord Chester- field), who, after all that could be eflFected for him by the care and knowledge of a fond father, by the best teachers, and the most advantageous circumstances, was far surpassed, at least in the outward graces of personal demeanour, by the rude and ignorant native of a remote island of the Pacific. But unfortunately his acquirements were limited to fcquhrementf the superficial observances of social life. No greater oi Omai. proof of his intelligence has been re orded than his knowledge of the game of chess, in which he became singularly proficient. With that zeal in good works for which he was so distinguished, the benevolent Granville Sharp laboured to instruct the Ulietean in the principles of writing, in which, it is said, he acquired sucii skill as to be able to pen one letter to Dr Solander. Mr Sharp • Memoirs of Dr Burney, by his Daughter, Madame D'Arblay, vol ii p. 7. f Boswell's Life of Johnson (Mr Croker's edition), vol. iii. p. 374, ft 340 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. CHAP. X. Benevolent efiuitR of OranvilJe Sharp. Motives of Oinai's visit to England. Distinpiiisli- ed iuvuur& endeavoured likewise to impart to him a knowledge of religious principles; but the attempt met with little success. He appears, indeed, to have possessed a very ordinary intellect, and was far inferior in genius and observation to the unfortunate Tupia, who embarked in the Endeavour, and died at Batavia. The opinion which Cook at first expressed as to the talents of Omai was im- questionably just, although partiality for his savage ward afterwards induced him to think differently. The rank which he held in his own country was by no means elevated ; he belonged to neither of the dominant classes, — the chiefs or the priests. His object in ac- companying Captain Furneaux to England appears to have been, a desire to obtain the means of successfully waging war with the men of Bolabola, expelling them from Ulietea, and regaining possession of his paternal domains. It has been remarked, that few savages have enjoyed so distinguished a destiny as Omai ; he was painted by Reynolds, sung by Cowper, and befriended by Cook ; while he enjoyed the society of Johnson, Banks, Lord Sandwich, Burney, Solander, Sharp, Lord Mulgrave, and many others illustrious for their rank or their learning. In his own estimation, perhaps, he was more fortunate, in having been favoured with the notice of the most celebrated beauties of the day, the Crewes, the Cravens, and the Townshends of tlie last century. COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 311 CHAPTER XI. CooWs Third Voyage. Objects of the Expedition — Kerpuelen's or Desolation Island — Van Diemen's Land — New Zealand — Manj^eea, Wenooa-ette and Wateeoo — Palmerston Island — Transactions at the Friendly Islands — the Society Islands— Otaheite — Eimeo — Huaheine — Settlement of Omai there, and Notice of his Life— Ulietea— Bola- bola — Cook sails northward — Christmas Island — Discovers the Sandwich Archipelag«) — Makes the Coast of New Albion — Nootka Sound —Cook's Biver — Behrinj^'s Strait— Icy Cape — Progress to the North arrested — Revisits the Sandwich Islands — Reception by the Natives— Cook is worshipped as their God Orono — Sails from Karakaooa Bay, but is obliged to return to '.i, — Hostile Disposition of the Natives— The Discovery's Cutter is stolen — Cook goes on Shore to recover it— Interview with the King — A Chief slain — Attack by the Natives — Death of Cook — Recovery and Burial of Part of his Remains — The V{»yage \» resumed — Death of Capts'n Gierke— The Ships reach China — Fur-trade — Arrival in England. While Cook was exploring the deptlis of the Southern CHAP xi. Hemisphere, the British government prepared an expe- Northern dition to investigate the seas and regions of the Arctic "R^*'A',i'j'" Circle. In 1773, Captain John Phipps, afterwards Lord riiipps. Mulgrave, sailed from England in order to determine how far ifiavigation was practicable towards the North Pole ;* and, though the general result of his lordship*8 enterprise could not be regarded as very favourable, • A notice of this expedition will be found in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, No. I., Narrative of Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas and Regions (3d edition), p. 3'JG-Ij3o. i v'9 ■WIHMPIinn 342 cook's third voyage. !!: 1 Hopes of further disco vury. Enthusiasm of iiwk. CHAP. XI hopes were still cherished that a channel between tlie Atlantic and the Pacific might be discovered on the northern verge of the American continent, and it was resolved that a voyage for this purpose should be under- taken. Lord Sandwich, anxious to consult Cook as to the management of the enterprise, invited him to dine at his house, along with Sir Hugh Paliiser, and Mr Stephens, the secretary to the Admiralty. In the discussion that followed, the importance of the design, the advantages which it would confer on science and navigation, and the fair field which it opened for honour and distinction, were so strongly represented, that the great discoverer, becoming exceedingly animated, at length started to his feet, and declared that he himself would take the com- mand of it. His active and restless spirit seems to have looked with impatience on retirement and repose, how- ever honourable ; and scarcely had he returned from his second voyage when we find him longing to engage in a new expedition.* The offer which he now made * We are indebted to Mr Locker (Gallery of Greenwich Hospi. tal, part i.) for the following letter from Cook, addressed within a week after his appointment in Greenwich Hospital to one of his earliest friends and patrons, — the worthy Quaker to whom he waa apprenticed at Whitoy : — « Mile End, August 19th, 1775. L*?tter of " Dear Sir, — As I have not now time to draw up an account of Cook. such occurrences of the voyage as I wish to communicate to you, I can onl^ thank you for your obliging letter and kind inquiries after me durmg my absence. I must, however, tell you, that the Reso- lution was found to answer on all occasions even beyond my expecta- tions, and is so little injured by the voyage that she will soon he sent out again. But I shall not command her: my fnte drives me from one e.xtream to another. A few months ago, the whole South- ern Hemisphere was hardly big enoiigh for me, and row I am going to be confined within the limits of Greenwich Hospital, which are far too small for an active mind like mine. I must, however, con- fess it is a fine retreat, and a pretty income ; but whether I can bring myself to like ease and retirement time will show. Mrs Cook joins with me in best respects to you and all your family, and be- lieve me to be, dear Sir, your most affectionate friend, and humble ervant, "James Cook." <* To Captain John Walker, at Whitby, in Yorkshire." cook's third voyage. 343 gratified the secret wishes of his noble entertainer, and was most willingly and joyfully accepted. On the 9th of February 1776, he was accordingly re-appointed to the Resolution ; Captain Gierke being placed under his orders in command of the Discovery, a vessel of 300 tons, fitted out exactly as the Adventure had been in the former voyage. The instructions for conducting this expedition were dated on the 6th of July 1776. They directed the cap- tain to make his way to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence " proceed southward in search of some islands said to have been lately seen by the French, in the latitude of 48° S., and about the meridian of Mauritius," that is, 67° 28' 30" E. He was then to steer for Ota^ heite, with power to touch, if lie judged it necessary^ at New Zealand ; and having refreshed his crews there, to run directly for the shores of New Albion, about the parallel of 46° north. Having sailed along the coast till he reached the latitude of 65°, he was ordered " very cai-efuUy to search for and to explore such rivers, or inlets, as may appear to be of a considerable extent, and pointing towards Hudson's or Baffin's Bays, and if there should appear to be a certainty, or even a probability, of a water-passage into the afore-mentioned bays, to use his utmost endeavours to pass through.'* Failing in this, he was to winter in the port of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschatka, and in the spring to renew the search for a north-east passage into the Atlantic* By an act of the legislature passed in 1745, a reward of £20,000 was held out tc any ship not in his majesty's service, which should discover a channel leading from Hudson's Bay into the Phcific ; and, with a view of cn- CHAP. XI. Tliird voyage determiuifd on. Instntctlona for the voyage. Exploration tor a riortli- east passiige. Keward offered. [fy' cou raging the crews. the statute was now amended, so * Voyage to the Pacific Ocean for making' Discoveries in the Northern Hemisphere (3 vols 4to, 2d edition, London 17B5), Intro- duction, p. xxxi-xxxv. Of this work, the first and second volumes were written by Cook, the third by Captain King, wliile the long and valuable introduction, and the erudite notes and illustrations, were from the pen of Dr Douglas, afterwards Bishop of Salisbury 1:1 :i44 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. Departure ot the Kesolution. " CHAP. XI. as to bring this noble premium within the reach of the Co-operative pi^esent enterprise. To co-operate with Cook, a vessel expedition, was despatched to Baffin's Bay to examine its western shores for an opening into the same ocean ; but Lieu- tenant Young, to whom the command was intrusted, returned without having effected any thing. The Resolution, with Omai on board, sailed from Plymouth Sound on. the 12th July 1776, and was joined by the Discovery at the Cape of Good Hope on the 10th of November. They put to sea on the 3d December, and proceeded south-east, according to their instructions, in search of the alleged French discoveries, the position of which was by no means fully determined.* On the 12th, they fell in with the islands seen by Marion and Crozet in 1772. Leaving these, they shaped their course to the southward, and on the 24th, got sight of some small ones about the latitude of 48° 29' S., and longitude 68° 40' E., which had been visited and named by Ker- guelen in December 1773. On the same day, standing to the south-south-east in search of land seen in the morning, they reached a more extensive coast indented by several bays, among which they expected to find a good harbour. This proved to be the true Kerguelen's Land of which our navigator was in quest ; but, in place of being a continent, as was at one time supposed, he found it an inconsiderable and steril island, worthy of the name of Desolation, if delicacy to the discoverer had permitted a change of title. No spot in either hemi- sphere under the same parallel of latitude according to the report of Mr Anderson, the surgeon, who officiated * The discoveries so vaffuely mentioned in the instructions were those made by M. Kerguelen, who sailed from the Isle of France in January 1772, and on the 12th of February, in lat. 60° 6' S., dis- covered a hijjli land to which he gave his own name. On his re- turn to France he represented his discovery in such glowinj^ co- lours, that Louis X V. gave him the cross of St Louis, and sent him out to complete its survey. He reached it in December 1773, and continued to explore its coasts till the 6th of January fojlow- \n^. On reaching France he was accused of misconduct, deprived of his rank, and thrown into prison. Kerjfuelen's Laud. hi COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 345 a yere ce in dis- re- co- scnt 773, low- rived ns naturalist, presented less employment to the botanist ; chap. xr. and its only living creatures were of the marine species, — chiefly ursine seals, and birds, as penguins and alba-paunaand trosses. The hills, though of moderate height, were^'o"^*- covered with snow, even at this season, which corre- sponded with the month of June in England ; and the land, where not frozen, was for the most part a mere bog, which yielded at every step. Tlie voyagers quitted this bleak shore on the 30th vrrivni at of December, and steered east by north for New Zea-^"",^i°' , ' 1 -1 .,1 nan s LuiiJ.. land. On the 24th of January, they descried the coast of Van Diemen's Land, and two days after, anchored in the bay fonnerly visited by Captain Fumeaux, and by him named Adventure. Here wood and water were procured in abundance ; but fodder for the animaL on board was not so readily obtained. While some of the crew were engaged in procuring these supplies, others carried on a successful fishery, and a party was employed in surveying the bay. The natives, who ap-ifativea. proached without fear, had no weapons of offence except pointed sticks about two feet long, occasionally used as darts. They were destitute of clothes or ornaments of any kind, but small punctures were observed on dif- ferent part of their bodies, some in straight lines and others in curves. They were of the common stature, but rather slender ; their skins were black, as also their hair, which was woolly ; but they were not re- markable for the other peculiarities of the negro race, — thick lips, or flat noses. On the 80th, the ships weighed anchor and put to Arrival at sea, pursuing their course to the east, till the 10th of February, when they came in sight of New Zealand, and on the 12th, anchored in the well-known station of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Several canoes in no long time made their appearance, but very few of those who occupied them would venture on board. Their shy and timid behavioui Cook considered to arise from a dread of punishment for the murder of the boat's crew belong- ing to the Adventure, and used every means to reassure ' New Zealand. I ■B i I 5- !i 346 CHAP. XL Restoration of native confidence. Cau«e of former colH- Bion with tho natives. COOK^S THIBD TOTAGE Weapons of New Zealand* them of his friendly intentions. In this he was sue-, cessful ; their distrust gradually gave way, every sign of fear vanished, and as amicable an understanding wa» established as if no evil had ever happened to mar it. The inquiries which he made, as to the melancholy fate of his former companions, were readily answered, though considerable discrepancies appeared in the accounts which he received from different individuals. The party, it should seem, left their boat in charge of a black servant, and, unsuspicious of danger, sat down to dinner about 200 yards off, surr unded by the natives, who, at that period, there is reason to believe, entertained no unfriendly designs. During the repast, some of the savages snatched away a portion of the bread and fish, for which they were punished with blows ; while, about the same time, one of them de- tected in pilfering from the boat received a severe stroke from the keeper. His cries alarmed his countrymen. COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 347 e h who imagined he was mortally wounded ; and as their CHAP. xi. resentment had been excited by the usage which they FatalquarreL themselves experienced, they readily yielded to the desire of revenge. A quarrel instantly ensued, in which two of them were shot dead by the only muskets dis- charged ; more would probably have fallen, had they not rushed upon the English, armed with their stone weapons, and, overpowering them by numbers, left not one alive. Kahoora, one of the chiefs, acknowledged Eaboora. that he attacked the commander of the party ; but en- deavoured to justify himself on the ground that one of the muskets fired was levelled at him, and that he only escaped by skulking behind the boat. Whatever truth there might be in his vindication, the natives frequently importuned Cook to kill him, and were surprised that he did not comply with their request. " But if I had followed the advice of all our pretended friends,*' says he, ** I might have extirpated the whole race ; for the people of each hamlet, or village, by turns applied to me to destroy the other." * The voyagers left Queen Charlotte's Sound on the saii for tiic 25th February, carrying with them two native youths, igj^^j^ and stood for the Society Islands. On the 29th of March, they came in sight of one, small but inhabited, called by the natives Mangeea, situated in latitude 21° 57' S. and longitude 201° 53' E. Its appearance was very pleasing, and indicated a fertile soil. The people, who seemed a fine and vigorous race, were of a tawny colour, and had strong, straight black hair and long beards ; the insides of their arms were tattooed in the manner adopted by several of the other islanders of Polynesia ; their language was a dialect of that which is * Voya^re to the Pacific, vol. i. p. 124. In 1827, Mr Earle met with an a^ed savage who, in answer to inquiries put to him, said he did not remember Cook, but ^ well recollected Captain Furneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat's crew; and, from other information," adds the author, '* which I received, I believe his assertion to have been correct." — Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand, by Augustus Earle^ (Loudon, 1832), p. 23. . h IS ««ltaMWM El 348 cook's third voyage. Wiiteeoo Island discovered. i:. CHAP. xr. common throughout the South Sea. One of them, wlio ventured on board, happening to stumble over a goat, asked Omai what bird it was. Leaving this island on the afternoon of the 30th, the next day brought the navigators in sight of another similar in appearance and extent, and situated only a few leagues ♦HHher to the north. On approaching its shores, a third was observed right ahead ; but as it was much smaller. Cook sent boats to look for anchorage and a landing-place on the one first discovered. As they were putting off, some natives rowed to the ships in their canoes, and, when asked, gave a few cocoa-nuts, seemingly without any notion of barter or care for the value of the presents made in return. Soon after their departure, another party arrived, whoso conductor brought a bn^ch of plantains, — a donation which was afterwards n- icrstood to be from the chief of the island, and wa3 acknowledged by an axe and a piece oi red cloth. In a short time, there came alongside a double canoe, in which were twelve men, who, as they drew near, recited some words in concert, one of them first standing up, and giving note of preparation. This ceremony over, tiiey asked for the commander, to whom they offered a pig, a few cocoa-nuts, and a piece of matting. They were then led through the ship, some of the contents of which surprised them considerably, though none fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid of the cows and horses, but the sheep and goats did not seem wholly strange to them, though, like the native of Mangeea, they supposed these animals to be birds. In most points they resembled the inhabit- ants of that island, although several of them were of darker complexion. No landing having been effected on this day, the attempt was renewed the next mori> ing by Messrs Gore, Burney, and Anderson, who, ac- companied by Omai, at length reached the shore, but amid dangers which occasioned much anxiety to their companions. Having anchored within 100 yards of the land, two Inlerconrso with tho nativcai COOK S TUIRD VOYAGE. 349 canoes came off to give assistance, which they thought chap. xr. proper to accept ; and their conductors, watching the — movements of the surf, caught a fit opportunity to push jjfo^a "" "" through, and placed them on the retf. On the beach, they were met by several natives, bearing green branches in their hands, who led them among a crowd whose curiosity was so troublesome that it was necessary to repress it by blows from some persons in authority. The party were then guided through an avenue of cocoa-palms, to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, among whom sat a chief cross-legged on the ground, and cooling himself with a leaf used as a fan. After saluting this personage, who was distin- guished by large bunches of red feathers placed in his cars, the party approached two others seated in the same posture, and wearing similar ornaments ; one of them was remarkable for size and corpulence, though not above thirty years of age ; the second, who was ap- parently older than either, desired the strangers to sit down. The people were then directed to stand aside, p,,^pp ^j and make room for the performance of a dance by about women. twenty young women, adorned like the chiefs. Their motions, which were dictated by a prompter, or master of the ceremonies, were accompanied by a slow and serious air sung by all the dancers. This entertainment was followed by a mock club fight. The island, though never before visited by Europeans, Evidence of was found to contain three countrymen of Omai, natives ^^^ ^P^^ ^ of the Society Isles. They were the sole survivors of islands. about twenty persons of both sexes, who, in a voyage from Otahc'ite to Ulietea, were driven by contrary winds to this spot, — a distance of nearly 200 leagues. They had been liere probably twelve years, and were so thoroughly satisfied as to have no wish to return. This incident, says tlie intelligent navigator, " will serve to explain, better than a thousand conjectures of specu- lative reasoners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the South Sea, may have been first peopled, especially those that lie 850 COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE. CHAP. XI. Fine charuc- tor of tho pvoplo. Otokootaiai Hervcy IsluucL remote from nny inhabited continent, or from each other." * The native name of the island was ascertained to be Wateeoo ; it is described as a place of great beauty, agreeably diversified by hills and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues ; it lies in latitude 20^ 1' S. and longitude 201" 46' E., and is about six leagues in circumference. Mr Anderson pronounces the inhabitants a well-made race, more especially those of rank. Many of the young were perfect models in point of shape, and had delicate complexions. Accord- ing to the report of Oinai, their manners and religion were nearly the same with those of the Society Islands ; and their language was equally intelligil)le to the Oto- heitan and to the New Zealunders. On the morning of the 4th April, Cook proceeded to visit the neighbouring island, which the natives of that which he had left termed indifferently Wenooa-ette and Otakootaia. It lay in latitude 19° 61' S., and did not exceed three miles in circuit. No human beings were seen ; but many traces occurred to show that it was occasionally visited ; some deserted huts were observed, and under the shade of trees were found monuments of stone, and enclosed spots which had perhaps been used as sepulchres. The voyagers now shaped their course towards Hervey Island, observed in the preceding voyage.t To the great surprise of the captain, who had believed the place to be without inhabitants, several canoes put off from the shore. From three to six men were in each, but not one of chem could be persuaded to venture on board. Although they differed much in appearance from the natives A Mangeea, — their complexion being of a darker l»ne, and their aspect more fierce and warlike, — no doubt could be entertained that they were of the same race. The name of their island was Terouggemou Atooa, and they acknowledged tliat they were subject to the King of Wateeoo j their language was very * ^'oyajfe to the PanifiCi vol. u p. 202. f Se« above, p. 3 JO. 1 C00K*8 THIRD VOYAQE. 351 similar to thai of Oiaheite. They said they had seen chap. XL two great sliip^ sail past, but did not speak with them : """ these must have been the Resolution and Adventure during the former voyage. Cook resolved, on the 6th, to bear away for the raimemton Friendly Islands, at which he was sure to obtain the i»i'i»a. supplies which the groups he just passed had been found to deny. On the Idth, when in danger of losing his cattle from want of food, he readied Palmcrston Island, which he had discovered in 1774.* Here he fortunately procured scurvy-grass, palm-cabbages, and young cocoa- trees for the animals on board ; while his crew fared sumptuously on birds, fish, and cocoa-nuts. This cluster, which is uninhabited and without water, com- prehends nine or ten low islets, which are probably the summits of the coral-reef that connects them together. One, on which a landing was made, was scarcely a mile in circuit, and not more than three feet above the level oV the sea ; its surface appeared to be merely a coral- isand, with a small mixture of blackish mould ; but notwithstanding the poverty and thinness of this soil, trees and bushes were both numerous and varied. Several small brown rats were seen, conveyed thither, it was conjectured, in a canoe, a fragment of which still re- mained on the beach.t From this position, which he left on the l7th, the Friendly navigator proceeded westward. On the night of the ^'^ 24th, he passed Savage Island, discovered in his second voyage ; 4. on the fourth day after, he came in sight of some of the Friendly group, and moored about five miles off Komangc* or Mango, the natives of which brought cocoa-nuts^ plantains, and other articles, in ex- change for nails. * See above, p. 324. + By some continental geograpliers the name of Cook's Arclii- pela^> has been applied to Man^eea, Otakootaia, Hcryey Islana, and their dependencies. See Baibi, Abrej^e de Geographic, p. 1277* 31 array's Encj'clonaEdia of Geography, p. 1523. 1 See above, p. i24. I 'i 352 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. li:l theft. CHAP. XI. On tiie 1st of May, he dropped anchor at Anna- Aunamooka n^ooka (the Rotteiinra of Tasman), in the same spot which he had occupied three years before. A few days after his arrival, he met with a chief, whose name has since acquired a European renowii, — Feenou or Fino^", — who was then only tributary lord of Hapai, hut was introduced to Cook as king of all the Friendly Islands, one hundred and fifty-t! ree in number. This individual was found very serviceable in forwarding the object of the voyagers, who experienced no little annoyance from the thievish disposition of the comihon Putiisiimer.t people, and even some of the chiefs. After punishing ?Krf!^'^'' one of the latter by inflicting a dozen lashes and tem- porary confinement, the nobles no longer pilfered in person, but depi'edations were continued by their slaves, on whom, we are told, a floirging appeared to make no greater impression than it would have done on the inain-mast. The only means by which they could be effectually restra'ned from pillage was shaving their heads ; which at oncp jxpodcd them to the ridicule of their countrym.en, and enal)led the English to keep them at a distance. Finding the supply of provisions almost exhausted in little more than a week. Cook meant to visit Ton- gataboo ; but, by the advice of the king, he proceeded to a group of islands called Hapai, lying to the north- east, of which the principal are Lefooga, Foa, Haano, Wilia, and Hooaleva. After a dangerous passage through a sea studded with shoals, rocks, and small islands, the ships came to an anchor on the l7th May, and soon after, Feenou and Omai undertook the task of formally introducing the captain to the natives of the island. He was conducted to a house on the margin of the sea, where he was seated beside his patrons ; while the chiefs and a muiiitude of people were ranged in a circle outside and in front of the erection. Taipa, a friendly noble, then addressing his countrymen hy order of Feenou, exhorted them to behave witii kindness and honesty to their visiters, and bring to them supplies of Hapai Iblauds. COOK'g THIRD VOYAGE. 3o3 provisions, for which they would receive valuable articles chap. xi. in exchange. ~~ Early next morning, the latter cliief came on board, y^^^^y^ and persuaded the discoverer to accompany him to hospitality. the shore, where they found a great concourse of the inhabitants. A large quantity of yams and other ar- ticles having been presented with much pon.p, the spectators formed them.selves into a ring to witness a succession of single combats, in which the parties fought with clubs Wrestling and pugilistic matches were also performed, 'in.l the voyagers saw with surprise " a couple of lusty wenches step forth and begin boxing, without the least ceremony, and with as much art na the men." These diversions took place in the presence of 3000 people ; and the gifts offered on the occasion loaded four boats, and far surpassed any donation yet received in the islands of the Pacific. On first landing, Cook's quick and sagacious eye perceived " that some- thing more than ordinary was in agitation ;" but he seems afterwards to have considered that the magnitude of the preparations was sufficiently explained by the munificence of the present. How little was he aware of the dangers which surrounded him ! Snares were TrencTioroui laid for his d vstruction ; and the chiefs and their fol- '•'-'^'^i"'*- lowers, who seemed to outvie each other in kindness ftnd hospitality, only awaited a token from Feenou to commence a general massacre. Fortunately, disputes arose among the conspirators which led to the abandon- ment of the treacherous design, and the games passed c^ without the expected signal being made.* The • Mariner's Ton^a Islands (3<1 edition), Edinburgh, 1827j vol. ii. pp. 7U 72. *' Mr Mariner," it is said, ''had tliis informa- tion at different times from several ehief's who were present, and in K articular from Feenou himself, the son of the chief who was at the ead of the conspiracy." Had (Jook discovered their treacherous intentions, he woidd have p.ohably hesitated to apply to these islanders the epithet Friendly, which so many events have shown to be sini^ularly undeserved. A witty Frenchman writes, " Nons dimes adieu auxhabitanadea lies ues hnit., doiit le noin, ainsi uue ^11 •^ #'1 ,'! '.rl ii- Ii * i a. i m 't »fm r »m M i 354 COOK 8 THIRD ViiVAGE. CRAP. XI Friendly pio- Kssionsintei- chtUigccL Pe\iew nnd fireworks. I I. King of I'uugataboo. treacherous chief, on whose nod the lives of the strangers had depended, accompanied them on board, and havhig been entertained at their table, mvus dismissed with re- newed marks of their liberality and fiieadship. " As soon as he got ashore," says Cook, " he sent via a fvesh present, consisting of two large hogs, a considerable quantity of cloth, and some yams.'* It v ould be dif- ficult to determine the feelings by whicii the savage was actuated in this step ; whether he wa.^ swayed by remorse or by gratitude ; if his generosity was a cunning device to obviate suspicion, or if it flowed from a heart softened into penitence by unmerited kindness, and anxious to expiate the crime which it had meditated. Two days after, the islandei-s were gratified by wit- nessing a review of the marines, and by a display of fireworks. The music, performed for their amusement, obtained no praise ; the French Iiorns were absolutely despised ; and even the drum, which they most ad- mired, was not thought equal to their own. The natives on their part exhibited numerous dances and other en- tertainments, which were prolonged through a great portion of the night. On the 27th, a large canoe ap- peared, having a personage on board not previously seen, who was said to be the real king of Tongataboo und all the neighbouring islands. It was with difficulty the commander could be persuaded that Feenou was a sub- ordinati^ chief ; and it was only from the urgent repre- sentation of the natives, that he was induced to acknow- ledge the supremacy of this new visiter. Futtafaihe or Poulaho, lor he went by both names, was accordingly invited into the ship, which he was desirous to inspect ; and he brought with him a present of two fat hogs. " If weight of body could give weight in rank or power," says the captain, " his majesty was certainly the most eminent man we had seen." When introduced into his les bienveillantes dispositions, nous rnppellaient si bien nos aminda 1U15." — D Urville, Voyage autour du Munde, tome iv. p. i{92. COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 355 presence, Feenou paid precisely tlie usual obeisance, chaf. xi. saluting the sovereign's foot with his head and hands, Q^^jgaiice to and retiring when the monarch sat down to eat.* the chiet Poulaho invited Cook to Tongataboo, whi<^'h they reach™ ed on the 10th June, after a passage dangerous fro!U the number of coral rocks, on whi{;h both vessels struck, fortunately without receiving damage. Their reception was friendly in tlu> extreme, a house ^,.ipj„i,y was set apart for their use, and tlicy were welcomed rcccpti.'n i.t with the acclamations of the people. Feenou j;rovod '*J"i5*'!'^''"'^ very serviceable, and the treatment experienced from other chiefs, though a little capricious and mercenary, held forth every hope of an amicahie intercourse. Feasting occupied a considerable portion of the time, both in the ships and on the shore. It was frc(|uently troublesome in the former, owing to the number who Troubiosfune thronged into the cabin, provided neither the spiritual "atiTe visits. sovereign nor Feenou was there, — the presence of either generally operating as an exclusion to all the rest. His majesty's visits were, consequently, much prized by his host, and appeared to be far from disagreeable to him- self. He was soon reconciled to English fare : " But still, I believe,"' says the former, " he dined thus fre- quently with me, more for the sake of wiiat we gave him to drink, than for what we set before; liim to eat. * Cook failed to acqiiiifl a correct knowledge of the ppcnliar gov- ernment of the Toiij^a Archipeirtgo. I'oulaho was Ti.uitvngn. that ChicI pilct. is. a divine '"hiof of supreme rank, and of ah^oh\(e power in rehg'ious aftVvirs, bat jf little aiithoritv ia seoolar matters. His jhtsop is ron- sidered spcred, and the highest chiefs; must perform towarls htm the hnmiliatinf^ coieniony of sahitiujif lij.s fool. '■ Dans h^s ataibn- tionii du touit-in^a;" says DTIrviiK-, "ii est diificilo dc no pas snisir sur-le-c'iavnp line resspvnhiar.oe asvcz frafjpaiito avv-c le tarattere et les hf'iineurs doiit lea chretiens cathoiiijuos avaieiit cnvirojine la pi-r- Sonne dn chef de leiir relipon : puissance spirituelle sansi honicH, une demi-divinife, aiitoiite trmporello \s\\\i on moinh etendne, buise- me'is d(? pieds et tiihnts nniversHs." \^>\aue, t.om<i iv, p. 2i)o. l''pen()U was in possession of tlie totnporul and c.\(.vnitivj' power of thf Hfate, in virine of an office somewhat. ana(oi.^o\!s to that of tlie Maire du Palais in France' and his family evenUially s«cceedi;J in Jcposing Toniton^a, I ; Is' I', m •'i ':) n 1% ■*««Bn««lP<Vin BC'C'SC»W-.~rj!E.'iJ*K ^';r,«^r:«.^\'««SKSt^»W^«SS&*!S»»s!te\'!ft^ LWkt\\w),k\<»i«vp lil 1 356 cook's THIltU VOYAGK. Ife H !' I; llesohite 01 Cook. CliAr. XL For he had taken a liking to our 'v\'ine, could empty ^, J . his hottle as well as most men, and wa8 as cheerful Continued • x- va . x njitive over it. Ihis social communication did not prevent depredaiiona ijpjjjj-,y depredations hy the lower orders, whose re- peated and daring offences became at length so cerious, that it was necessary tliey should be effectually checked. On the disappearance of a kid and two turkey-cocks, Cook had recourse to a mesisure, which, he had found not unsuccessful on former occasions. " I could not be so simple," he says, " as to suppos(.^ that this vvjis merely an accidental loss ; and I was determined to have them figain. Tlie first step I took was to seize on tixree canoes that happened to be alongside the ships. I then went ashore, and, having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, in the house that we occupied, I immediately put a guard over them, and gave tliem to understand, that they must remain under I'estraint, till not only the kid and the turkeys, but the other things that had been stolen from us at different times were restored. They concealed as well as they co'ild their feelings on finding themselves prisoners ; and, having assured me that every thing should be restored as I desired, sat down to drink their kavay seemingly much at tlieir ease. It was not long before an axe and an iron wedge were brought to me. In the mean time, some armed natives began to gather behind the house ; but, on a part of our guaxr) marching against them, they dispersed, and I advised the chiefs to give orders that no more should appear. Such orders were aecordingly given by them, and they were obeyed. On asking them to go aboard with me to dinner, they readily con- sented ; but some having afterwards objected to the Vis5f by the king's going, he instantly rose up, and declared he would be the first man. Accordingly, we came on board. I kept them there till fo\ir o'clock, when I conducted them ashore, and soon after the kid and one of the turkoy~<?ocks were brought back. The -'j.^r, they said, should be restored the next morning. I believed this would hap>pen, and released both them and lioaiiL 11 COOK S TUIRD VOYAGE. 3r>7 the canoes." * This confidence was verified hy the chap. XI. result ; the remaininer fowl and most of tlie articles that r. "~"T, had heen stolen were soon after returned, and the expe- of stokn dient which had heen adopted iiad not tJie slightest P^P^^^'^y* prejudicial effect on the friendly dispositions of the king or lii.s nobles. A few days before his departure, Cook entertained pm-tini cn- Poulaho at dinner. The monarch was ol)served to take tLTtainment particular notice of the plates, and having obtamed one of pewter, mentioned two remarkable purposes to which he meant to apply it. When he had occasion to visit an^ other island, he would leave the dish at Tongataboo as a representative, to which the people would pay the same obeisance as to his own person ; and, on being asked what had performed this service before, he re- plied, " A wooden bowl in which he washed his hands." Sinpniar The other use was for a species of ordeal : when a theft "^'i^e ordoaL was committed, and the guilty person could not be discovered, the people were assembled before him, and when heihad washed his hands in the plato, they ad- vanced one after another to touch it, in the same manner as they touciied his foot on other occasions. If the robber ventured to lay his hands on the sacred vessel, he was overtaken by instant death, not by violence, but by the finger of Providence ; if, on the contrary, he declined the test, his refusal was considered a clear proof of his guilt.t * Voyage to t'le Pacific, vol i. p. 304. + Voyajj^e to the Pacific, vol. i. p. 'S'2H, More than thirty years Native taboo, aftcrward.s, Mr Mariner saw this <u^\\ in the possession of Toiiiton- j^a's son. Cook does not seem to have heen made fully aware of the purposes to which it was Of.stined, which are th'is explained hy the olhfr:- -" If any one is ^</6f>ocfy [consecrated or .set apart] hy touching the person or garments of Touitonga, tiiere is no other chief can relieve him from his tab<y), because no chief is eijtiai to him in rank; and to jt void the inconveniencf, arising fr*<vii hisahsence, r» consecrated bowl (or some wnch flii<ig) belonging {■> Touitonga U »i|i|/lied to and touched instead of his feet. In l . Afariner's time, I'oiiitongH always left a pewter dish for this purpose, which ili4i was given to liis father hy Captain Coi k." — Mariner's Tonga Islands, vol. ii. p. IBfJ. Tiiis ceremony is termed mot-moe^ and l! I ' i. i! > J m I I "1hH » i ti»l 'i i toJii?"-i i»!M>e NMHM> n Will <i" 3r)8 look's third voyage. CHAP. XT. Departure ft-om the Tonga Islands. Toobonal Island. ncceptlon of Omul. Tmpmdent extrara- gince. After a sojourn of nearly three months, during which time the most cordial friendship was maintained, our countryman hade adieu to the Tonga Islands on the l7th of July. The time which he passed among them was by no means unprofitably spent, as the season for pro- ceeding to the north had gone by before he resolved to visit them, and more especially as the abundance of fresh provisions enabled him to spare his sea-stock. He like- wise benefited the people, by leaving with them several useful animals, while he recruited those which were destined for Otaheite. On the 8th of August, in latitude 23° 25' S., longi- tude 210° 37' E., the voyagers discovered a small island, called by the natives Toobouai, and surrounded by a coral reef, on which there was a violent surf. The inhabitants, who spoke the language of the Society Islands, appeared to be unarmed.* From this he steered northwards, and, on the fourth day after, came in sight of the S E. end of Otaheite, whence several canoes came off. Those on b^rd seem- ed scarcely to recognise the travelled Ulietean, and tht meeting even with his brother-in-law was cold and dis- tant, until he presented him with a few red feathers ; upon which the heart of the latter warmed, and he begged that Omai and he might be tayos or friends, and exchange names. The crimson plumes produced an alteration equally favourable on the rest of his country- iHen. Our navigator counselled him to economize the treasures with which he had been loaded in Britain, so that he might be respected in his own land ; but the advice was little regarded, and he allowed himself to be cheated by every cunning flatterer. " His first in- until it is performed no person who is tabooed will dare to feed liim- Belf'with his own hands. The " wooden bowl," which was formerly used in this rite, it is said, was ^\\&n to the ancestor of Poulaho by Tasman, in 1(543. — Quarterly Review, vol. ii. p. 32. • Tills place, wiiere Christian and the mutineers of the Bounty en- deavoured to effect a settlement in 17^9, Lord Byron has selected as the scene of his poem of The Island, altering the name for the sake of e^uiiony into Toolwnai. cook's tuird voyage. 3".9 terview with his sister," we arc told, " was marked witli cHA?. XI. expressions of the tenderest affection, easier to be con- — - ceived than to be described ;" and an old woman, sister his sister. to his mother, equally fervent in her joy, fell at his feet and bedewed them with her tears. Having an- chored in Oaitipiha Buy,* Cook proceeded to inspect • On jfoin|j; ashore at this place. Cook founrt a wooden house Snujiish erectod on the martjin of the sea, and near it a cross, witli tlic in- voyaj;ot scription,"CHRisTrs vincit — Cahohis III. nirFHAT. 1774." Tliey had been raised, he was told, by the crews of two vessels, wliich had recently visited the island, and whicli he rij^htly conjec- tured had been des[)atched from the Spanish settlements in South America, ile was not able, however, to obtain any certain infor- mation regarding the voyage; and it is only within the last year that an account of its transactions has been brou^lit to li^jht, hv a manuscript presented to the Geoirraphical Society of Paris by M. H. Ternaux. An alistract of this interesting- document, by M. D Urville, is inserted in the Bulletin of tlie Society for March ]H'M (2nrt serie, tome i. p. 145-IH4); and some farther details of the enterprise have appeared in the Journal of the Royal Geojjraphical Society of London (vol. iv. p. 182-191). In October 177U the court of Spain, alarmed at the late visits of the Knglish to the Snutli Sea, gave orders to tlie Viceroy of Lima to preiMire, without delay, an expedition to examine the Society Archi|>elago, and particularly Otaheite, and to report ujion the capa- bilities, population, and resources of these islands. The viceroy in consequence fitted out the Aguila frijjate; which, under the command of IJon Dominjjo Bonechea, sailed from Callao on the 26th of September 1772 She reached Otaheite on the lUth of November, and on the 26th of March 177^ arrived at Vat{)a- raiso. The commander made a very I'avourahle representation of the countries ho had been sent to explore ; and, in conveying his journals and observations to the king-, " I could not," says the vice- roy, " but .it the same time strongly express my own opinion to his majesty, as to the great prejudice which would result to his domin- ions in these seas if any other power were permitted to take |)re- vious possession of them." These views met the approbation of tlie court of Madrid, and Discovery of Captain Bonechea was again despatched to tiie Society i^roup. the Society He sailed from Callao on the 20th September 1774, havi i}j on I^lauda. board two monks of the order of St Francis, a portable house, sheep and cattle, seeds and implements, two natives bronght away in the previous voyage, and a linguist, to be left at Otalieite with the mis- sionaries. On the tiOth October, he discovered an island, which he named San Narcisso, and which is believed to be the same with lie Dangier of Duperrey. The next day, he descried another, which he called I^as Animas (the .Mnller of Billinghausen, and the Frey- ciuet of Duperrey). On the 1st of November, he discerned one i 1^ ' h MM 360 cook's third voyage. CHAP. XI. Spanish immitiR of the Society Ibluuds. Dnnth of liouocliCii. I I'! Unsnccessful mission of Spanish luoiika. il ; ■■' his provisions, caulk the vessels, and make other neces sary arrangements. Knowing the excellence of the wliich he liad seen in liis previous voyaj^e, and denominated San Simon et Jiidcs ; it is supposed to be identical with the Resohition of Cook (see above, p. 307). On the morninfr of the 3d, he saw a low isle (tlie Doubtful of the fjreat Enfjlish navij^ator), whicli he entitled I.os Martines; and, in the eveninj^ of the same day, an- other, which he desi|^nated San Quintin ; the latter seems to be that on wliich Beecliey, in 182*», bestowed the appellation of Croker, in honour of the very learned and talented Secretary to the Admi* rahy. The followini^ afternoon, he observed a third, on which he conferred the title of Todos Santos, and which is apparently the Chain Island of Cook. At .sunset of the Hth, the summits of Ota- heite (or, as he designs it, Amat) came in sight ; and on the 27th, he anchored in the harbour of Oaitiniha, The building of tht» wooden mansion was comi)leted towarns the end of the year ; and on the Jst of January 1775, the symbol of Christianity seen by Cook was erected on the shore with great [)omp, amid the chanting of masses and discharges of muskets and artillery. Having landed the cattle, the captain set sail on the 7th, and passing by Eimeo and Huaheine, touched at Ulietea ; and having descried IJolabola, Tabu- aemanii, Tethuroa, and Maupete or Maurua, returned to Ota- htite on the 20th. Six days after, Boncchea died, and was interred with becoming ceremony at the foot of the cross. The comniand now devolved on Don Tomas Gayangos, who on the 28th made sail for Jiima, where he arrived in April, having seen and named in his route the islands Santa Rosa (the Ravavai or Vavitou of modern maps), San .Tuan (the Melville of Bcechey), San Julian (the Adventure t)f Cook), and San Bias (the Tchitshagofl^' of Billinghausen). " The result of this voyage," we are told, " was the examination of twenty-one islands, nine of which were low, and the others lofty. A particular account of them, as well as the track of the frigate correctly laid down, and all the details of the interesting expedi- tion, were immediately forwarded to Spain." Anxiety for the fate of the missionaries left at Otaheite prompted a third visit; and, on the 27th September 1775, the Aguila, under the comniand of Don Cayetano de Langara, once more set sail from Callao. After a voyage of thirty-six days, the captain an- chored in the harbour of Oaitipiha. He found that the mis- sionaries, who were determined to abandon their task, had made no progress in the conversion of the natives, and were so alarmed by the human sacrifices prevalent in the island, that nothing but a Spanish garrison would have induced them to remain. It was in vain that the commander called to their recollection their high and holy vocation, and exhorted them to persist in the glorious work * 'ley had begun. Having embarked in the Aguila, they returned I' Callao on the 17th of February 177''- " 11 est remarquable," wi s M. D'Urville, "qu'a I'epque des deux expeditions en 1772 et 177^ l<^s Espagnols n'aieat point senti ni meme soup9onne que COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. 361 cocoa-nut liquor, he was desirous of prevailing on lu!« seamen to exchange for it part of their allowance of spirits during their stay at the island ; and having as- senil)led the ship's company, he represented the advan- tages of this measure, in an address so clear and judicious, that his own crew first, and afterwards that of Captain Gierke, readily concurred in the proposal. On the 23d, the vessels were removed to Mataval, where the caulking and other operations could he more conveniently carried on. Cook found the sovereign, his ancient friend Otoo, as anxious as ever to relieve his wants hy ample supplies of provisions, and to contribute to his amusement by sports and entertainments. In return lor these important services, the Englishman made him various presents of poultry and other animals. Omai here conducted himself with such imprudence, that he soon lost the friendship and respect of the king and every chief of rank : " lie associated," says Cook, " withnone but vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to plunder him ; and if I had not interfered, they would not have left him a single article worth the carrying from the island." The voyagers here met with their former companion, Oedidee, who, in 1773, had accompanied them from Ulietea and visited the Tonga Archipelago, New Zealand, and the Marquesas, and who now took pains to evince his superior civilisation by constant repetitions of " Yes, sir," or " If you please, sir." He entertained his ancient shipmates at a dinner of fish and pork, — the latter consisting of a hog weigii- ing thirty pounds, which was killed and served up at table within an hour. On the fourteenth of September, the two captains mounted on horseback, and rode round the whole plain of Matavai, " to the very great surprise of a great train of people who attended on the occasion, gazing on them with as much astonishment as if they had been Tai'ti (Otalieite) et iMaitea (Maitea or Osnahiiri;) pouvaient se rap- porter aux lies Saifittaria et Dezena, decoiivcrtes au commeuce- Hient du xvii siecle par leur computriote Qdiros." CHAP. xr. Cocnu-imt liquor. Fricnfllv 'TCl-Jltl'M lit Matavai. Impni'lpnco ot Umui. Hospttdllly Oedidee. I{ide round MatavaL ■i! ; ; 5 mmmmmm 3f)2 cook's xninn voyage. I : CHAP. XI. Curiosity of the '^utivca. Natlvo u Ui :l centaurs." Though this feat was repeated daily, the curiosity of the islanders continued unahated. They \vere exceedingly delighted with the animals, whicli perhaps impressed them with a higher notion of tho greatness of I'^uropcan nations than all the noveUiea previously exhihited. On the 22d, the commander submitted to a ri dve treat merit of cure for a rheumatic affection, under which he at that rheuuiati:>m. ^j^^^ laboured. The process, called romee, and gen- erally performed by female.s, was of the same nature with that to which Wullis and two of his officers had been subjected. " I was desired," says he, " to lay myself down. Then, as many of them as could get round me began to squec ze me with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my flesh became a perfect mummy. In short, after undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away from them. However, the operation gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to ftnother rubbing-down before I went to bed ; and it was so effectual, that I found myself pretty easy all the night after. IVIy female physicians repeated their pre- scription the next morning, and again in the evening ; after which I found tlie pains entirely removed." * The repeated visits of our countryman had created a persuasion among the natives that the intercourse would be continued ; and Otoo enjoined Cook to request the Earee rahie no Pretaitey the King of Britain, to send to him, by the next ships, red feathers, with the birds which produced them, also axes, muskets, powder, shot, and horses. He followed this solicitation with an as- surance that, should the Spaniards, who had recently been there, return, he would not permit them to occupy Matavai Fort, which he said belonged to the English. This remark showed with what facility a settlement might be made at Otaheite, which, however, the great * Voyage to the Pacific, vol. ii. p. 63. Viitivc desire f;>r t'lirtlmr iutorcourse. 1^ COOK s Til in 1) voYAr.n. 3()3 na'iHgator hdpcd would never hai)j)en ; npprehonding ciTAP. XI that, conducted as most Kui()|)ean cstul)lislunent8amonL' — wivagc nations nave untoitunately been, it would pivc risuitxot tlie nionle just cause to lament that their island had •"^'"'"I't'in cver heen discovered. " Indeed," he adds, " it is very lamn. unliki'ly that any measure of tin's kind should ever l>e seriously thought of, as it can neither serve the purposes of puhlic amhition nor of private avarice ; and, witliout such induccnionts, I may pronounce that it will never be undertaken." * On the 29th, Cook took his departure from Otaheitc, n^ooptlon it and the next day anchored in Kimeo, which he now Knneo. visited for tiie first time. Durini^' a stay of six days, he was hospitably entertained, and tiie greatest harmony subsisted between him and the inhabitants ; hut when Jie was on the eve of quitting the island, one of his goats was stolen, — a loss which interfered with hia views of stocking other places with these animals. Having resolved to use every possible expedient for ita Thoft of recovery, he in the first i)lace employed menaces, but f^^"'* with so little effect, that in the mean while another was taken away. Some of the natives alleged tliat it had strayed into the woods, and went off as if in quest of it ; but not one of them returned ; and the peo])le began to leave the neighbourhood, — the usual indication of con- * Voyaj^e to the Pacific, vol. ii. p 77. Cowner would seem to have had this pa^saj^e in his view wlicii he wrote his verses o:i Omai, which thus coachule : — " We found no halt To tempt us in thy country. Doinj^ ^"od, Disinterested jfood, is not our trade. We travel far, 'tis true, but not lor noutjht ; And must he bribed to compass earth a^ain By other iiopes and richer triiits than yours." "The sliip Duff had not sailed," says iSIr Kllis, in allusion to these lines, "and the spirit of missionary enterprise was not aroused in the British churches. Had ^Jowper witnessed these operations of Christian benevolence, he would have cheered with his own numbers those who had gone out from Britain and other hivd'-, not only to civilize, but to attempt the moral renovation ot the iica- thea." — Polynesian Ilesearches, vol ii. p. ujS. IS |l IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) LO I.I 2.2 lit lU u IL25 in 1.4 Ui 12.0 m 1.6 JS V] o> /S '^.^• ■^ ^/ Hiotographic .Sciences Corporation S: *'fST MAIN STRUT WEbSVER.N.Y. M5S0 (716) 872-4503 M \ ^V •s^ \ :\ ^\^\ ■ ^^% 4^ ,-fr r . isam, ' Wmm mwummjumm.. : n ■■'■u^rja aTri'ti i r' -i 364 COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. CHAP. XI. Intimidation oftlie natives. .• Restorntion of tlic stolen Koods. r-\travai,ant desires ot Omai. scious delinquency. Havinpj regained the animal first abstracted, Cook, in order to obtain restitution of the other, despatched a boat to that part of the country where it was said to bo. The officers intrusted with the duty liaving returned after a fruitless search, he pro- ceeded the next morning with thirty-five men across the island, three armed boats being at the same time ordered to support them if necessary. The inhabitants fled at their first approach, but, on being assured of safety, remained in their dwellings. Still no benefit re- sulted from the expedition, which was more than once artfully misdirected, and in danger of being attacked. Having gathered some of the natives together, he in- formed them, that unless the goat were immediately delivered np, he would set fire to their houses and boats. Even this menace failed ; and, in consequence, six or eight huts and several war-canoes were consun.ed. The day however passed, and the animal was not re- stored till next evening, nor without a repetition of the same severities. The following morning, he took his departure, and at noon of the 12th October anchored at Huahcine. The chief object entertained in visiting this island was the establishment of Omai in safety and independence. It was his own desire to settle in Ulietea, where, as was formerly mentioned, his father had been deprived of some territorial possessions when the island was con- quered by the wavriDrs of Bolabola. " I made no doubt," says the captain, " of being able to get the paternal in- heritance restored to the son in an amicable manner ; but lie was too great a patriot to listen to any such thing, and was vain enough to suppose that I would reinstate him by force.'* This belief seems, indeed, to have taken strong possession of his mind. From the commence- ment of the voyage, the defeat and expulsion of the invaders were his constant themes, and he delighted to indulge in dreams of their flight, when the tidings of his return with the powerful sftrangei's should be spread cook's third voyage. 365 throughout the islands. For some time no remon- strances could dispel these delusions, and " he flew into a passion if more moderate and rctisonahle counsels were proposed for his adrantage ;" but, as he drew nearer to his home, his sanguine hopes sank into despondence, and he would have willingly remained at Tonga under the protection of Feenou. He appears, however, still to have cherished some expectations that the English would employ their arms to replace him in his father's lands ; and it was not until Cook peremptorily declared, that he would neither assist in such an enterprise nor allow it to be undertaken, that the Ulictean consented to take up his abode in Huaheine, along with the youths who had come on board at New Zealand. The grant of a piece of ground on the seashore having been obtained from the chiefs by the influence of our country- man, the carpenters of both ships proceeded to erect a house. A small garden was enclosed, and stocked with shaddocks, vines, pine-apples, .melons, and the seeds of several other vegetables. Tiie European arms which Omai possessed were a musket, bayonet, and cartouche- box, a fowling-piece, two pairs of pistols, and several swords or cutlasses ; besides these he was furnished with a helmet and coat of mail, numerous toys and trinkets, a portable organ, an electrical machine, fire- works, hatchets, iron tools, and kitchen utensils ; and tliere were left with him a horse and marc, a boar and two sows, and a male and female kid. To conciliate the chiefs and secure their protection, he made them valuable presents ; wliile Cook threatened them with the weight of his resentment if his friend were injured. On the second of November, a favourable breeze springing up, the vessels got under weigh. Long after the other islanders had taken their departure, Omai, melancholy and dejected, lingered on deck. It is related by a journalist of the voyage, that he so much dreaded lest, after the departure of the squadron, he should be despoiled of his wealth, and reduced to his former in- significance, that he- earnestly entreated to be taken back CHAP. XT. Passioiiiite demandai Establloh- ment ut iluaheine. European acquisiliuna. Fears of OmuL 366 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. ' Grief at parting. Fate of Omai. Cowpcr's lines in tho CHAP. XI. to Britain ;* and it wa8 not until the ships were uut at sea, that ht proceeded to bid farewell to the >fficer8. When he came to part with the captain he burst into tears, and continued to weep bitterly as tlie boat con- veyed him to the shore. For many years the fate of this " gentle savage " was an interesting topic for speculation in England ; and, as Cook predicted, with " luturo navigators of that ocean, it could not but be a principal object of curiosity to trace his fortunes." But a long time elapsed ere a sail returned from those favoured islands with tidings of his lot, to contrast the harsh reality of truth with the glow- ing picture which the fancy of Cowper had delineated : — '' The dream is past ; and thou hast found a^ain Thy cocoas and bananas, palms atid yams. And homcstall tliatch'd with leaves.' But liiist thou iuuud I'heir former charms ? And, having seen our state, Our paluces, our hidiei , and our pomp Ot'e(iuipa(>:e, our ^rdens, and our sports. And heard our music; are thy simple Cricnds, Tiiy simple (are, and all thy plain delights, As dear to thee as once? And have thy joys Lost nothin|r by comparison witli ours ? Bude as thou art (for we returned tiiee rude And ijf noraiit, except of outward show), I cannot think thee yet so dull of heart And spiritless, as never to regret Sweets tasted here, and lei't as soon as known. Alethinks I see thee straying on the beach, And asking of the surge, that bathes thy ibot, If ever it has wash'd our distant shore. I see thee weep, and thine are honest tears, A patriot's for his country: thou art sad At thouirht of her forlorn and abject slate, From which no power of thine can raise lier up. Thus Fancy paints thee, and, though apt to ci r, Perha|vs errs little, when she paints thee thus. She tells me, t«To, that duly every morn Thou climh'st the mountuin-top, with eager eye I'.xploring far and wide the wat'ry waste For sight of ship from England. Every speck Seen in tlie dim horizon turns thee pale • Journal of Captain Cook's last Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, faithfully narrated from the original MS. Lond. IJilLSvo. Ana- lyzed in the GeQtlfcinan's Magazine, vol. 11. pp. 231-234, 278, 279. COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. 3G7 With conflict oF contending hopes and fears. But comes at last the dull ami dusky eve, And sends tliee to tliy cabin, wpII prepared To 'Irt'am all ni^ht ot what the day denied.' CITAP. XI. How different from this was the real lifu of Omai ! Rct"ni to Specjdily abandoning his European dress, and adopting hubiFi tiie costume of the islanders, he sank into their indolence, barbarism, and vice. The horses which were left with him, he regarded only as means of exciting the fear or the wonder of his countrymen ; and, far from lamenting their forlorn state with the tears of a patriot, his childish vanity found constant gratification in the superiority which the English presents enabled him to assume. Ills fire-arms rendered him a powerful subject, and secured Abuse of iiis for him the hand of his sovereign's daughter, with the influence, dignity or title of Peuiri (wise or instructed). Hence- forth he continued the inglorious tool of the king's cruel and wanton humour, assisting him with ' musket in time of war, and in peace frequently ^musing the monarch by shooting at his subjects at a distance, ot gratifying his revenge by despatching with a pistol in the royal presence those who had incurred his wrath. He died within three years after his celebrated voyage, and the New Zealanders did not long outlive him. It was expected by many that, by imparting the arts and civilisation of Europe, he would acquire the title of his country's benefactor ; but his name is now rarely men- pj^g^j^tion ^f tioned except with contempt or execration. The site tiis name. of his dwelling is by the natives still called Beritani (Britain) j and amid the ruins of the garden, they show a dark and glossy-leaved shaddock- tree, which they love to tell was plarited by the hands of Cook. The horses which he left did not long survive, but the breed of goats and pigs yet remains ; many of the trinkets, part of the armour, and some of the cutlasses, are als') preserved, and the numerous coloured engravings of u large quarto Bible are objects of general attraction. * The Task, book i. 308 cook's third voyage. Interesttnf; associations. Arrival at L'lictcu Attempted recovery ( f deserters CHAP. XL Tliere is, perhaps, no place in the island to which greater interest is attached ; for, besides its associations with the names just mentioned, on this spot was reared the first building in which the true God was publicly worshipped in Uuaheine ; and here also was erected the first school for the instruction of the benighted inhabitants in the knowledge of lettere and the principles of Christianity.* Cook now stood over for Ulietea, where he moored on the 4th of November. A few days afterwards, a marine, yielding to the enticements of the natives, deserted with his musket and accoutrements. He was speedily apprehended ; but little more than a week had elapsed when a midshipman and a sailor were missing from the Discovery. Captain Clerke set out in quest of the fugitives, but returned after a fruitless day's toil, impressed with the belief that the inhabitants were desirous to conceal them. The commander resolved to undertake the search in person ; but he proved not more fortunate than his colleague ; and, as a last resort, he determined to detain the chiefs son, daughter, and son-in-law, till the deserters were delivered up. Oreo, deeply alarmed for the safety of his family, lost no time in making every exertion for the recovery of the runa- gates ; while the common people bewailed the captivity of such eminent personages with long and loud excla- mations of sorrow. Not trusting for their release to the stipulated condition, or too impatient to await its fulfil- ment, they formed a conspiracy to secure the person of Cook and that of his second in command. The former had been accustomed to bathe every evening, often alone, and always without arms; but, after confining Katiie plots, the chiefs family, he deemed such exposure imprudent ; and, at the same time, cautioned his officers against going ftir from the ships. Oi-eo betrayed his knowledge of tile design by repeatedly asking him, if he would not go to the bathing-place. Being thus disappointed, it was determined to seize on Messrs Clerke and Gore, * Kills, Pulyne&ien Researches, vol. ii. p. 304-372. ,,» COOK S THIRD VOYAOE. 3(59 who had landed ; and accordingly, a pai-y of the natives chap. xr. armed with clubs advanced against them, while some canoes were preparing to intercept their retreat to the Recovery of ship. A few shots^ though they fortunately wounded tii& iiescrtcia no one, dispersed these assailants ; and the next night, the deserters having been recovered, the prisoners were set at liberty. On the seventh December, the voyagers quitted Bartfiat Ulietea and steered for Bolabola, in order to purchase ^"'"^^'i*'' an anchor which had been lost by Bougainville at Otaheitc, and brought hither by the natives as a present to the warlike Opoony. Cook's wish to possess it arose, not from his being in want of such an implement, but from the necessity of having iron tools to trade with, and from his original stock being exhausted. He lost no time, therefore, in offering for it a night-gown, a shirt, some gauze handkerchiiTs, a looking-glass, some beads, with other toys, and six axes. At the sight of these last articles there was a general shout, and the chief refused to accept the commodities till the English were put in possession of the anchor. It was found to be so greatly mutilated, that Opoony probably considered it quite inadequate to the value of the goods proposed in exchange ; but our navigator, gratified by the fair conduct of the chief, took it, and sent in return all the articles originally intended. The Bolabola men were Estimntinn of esteemed invincible by their neighbours, and had ex- tended the fame, if not the terror of their arms, as far as to Otaheite. The present of the anchor was a j)roof of the awe in which they were held ; nor was this the only gift which they had acquired, for a ram, left by the Spaniards, had been transported hither from the same island. The captain, on being informed of this fact, put a ewe on shore, in hopes of producing a breed of sheep. At Ulietea he left pigs and goats, and from the numerous presents which he had dispensed, he was of opinion, that in a few years this archipelago would be stocked with all the valuable domestic animals of Europe. " When once this comes to pass," he remarks, the BolabolA meiL S70 cook's third voyage. CHAP. XL H( pes of a breed of domestic animala. Departure on a northward Tnnat Island discovered ** no part of the world will equal these islands in variety and abundance of refreshments for navip:ator8. Indeed, even in their present state, I know no place that excels them. After repeated trials in the course of several voyages, we find, when they are not disturbed by intes- tine broils, but live in amity with one another, which has been the case for some years past, that their produc- tions are in the greatest plenty ; and particularly the most valuable of all the articles, their hogs." * On the eighth of December, he took his departure from Bolabola, and made sail to the northward. Seven- teen months had elapsed since he left England, yet he was aware, " that with r.gard to the principal object of his instructions, tlie voyage was at this time only be- ginning." He had now reached the limits of his former navigation, and entered upon a region rarely traversed, and never thoroughly explored. In the night between the 22d and 23d, he crossed the equator in longitude 203° 16' E. ; and, soon after daybreak on the 24tli, saw a low island, of a very bai'ren appearance, on which he bestowed the title of Christmas. It was uninhabited, was about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference, and ' f semicircular form. No fresh water could be found on it, and only a few low trees ; but it abounded with turtle, of which about 300 were caught, " of the green kind, and perhaps as good as any in the world." The voyagers weighed anchor on the 2d January 1778, and resumed their course towards the north, favoured by serene skies and gentle breezes. On reaching the latitude of 10° 30' N., various birds and turtles were seen every day, and regarded as indications of the vicinity of land. None, however, was discovered till the morning of the 18th, when an island appeared bear- ing north-east by east ; soon after, another was seen bearing north ; and, on the 19th, a third, in a west- north-west direction. Doubts were entertained whether the second, which lay most convenient for approach, had * Voyage to the Pacific, vol. ii. p. 134. cook's third voyage. 371 any inhabitants, till some canoes came off, having in chap. xi. each from three to six men, who, to the agreeable sur- jf„„~ prise of our navigators, spoke the language of Otnheite. canoes. Though easily pi-c vailed on to come alongside, they could not be persuaded to venture on board. The name of their island was ascertained to be Atooi or Tauai ; they were of a brown complexion, and a considerable diversity was observable in their features, some of which were not very different from those of Europeans. The greater number hnd their hair, which was naturally Appenmnco black, but dyed of a brown colour, cropt short ; others ami «'"!*»- permitted it to flow unconfined in loose tresses ; and a few °**""^ wore it tied in a bunch on tlie crown of the head. In general they had beards ; no ornaments were observed on their persons, nor were their ears bored ; some showed punctures on their hands or near the groin ; and the pieces of cloth worn by them were curiously stained of various hues. On certain rare occasions they wore a kind of mask, made of a large gourd, with a perforation for the eyes and nose ; the top was adorned with small green twigs, and from the lower part hung stripes of cloth. No anchorage being found here, the vessels bore Nntlvo away to leeward, when tlie canoes departed ; but as ^"""'■• the discoverera sailed along the coast others succeeded, bringing roasting-pigs and some fine potatoes, which the owners readily exchanged for whatever was offered to them. Several villages were seen, — some on the margin of the sea, others in the interior of the country ; and the inhabitants were perceived thronging to the shore for the purpose of viewing the ships, which passed the night standing off and on. In the morning, as they were moving towards the land, several canoes approached, and some of the natives had the courage to come on board. Never before, in the course of his voyages, had Aslfnis)!- our navigator witnessed such astonishment as these njahea. savages displayed. Their eyes wandered from one object to another in restless amazement ; they endeavoured to pciie every thing they came near ; and the wildness of cook's third toyaoe. CilAP. XI. !. Mail ot Sandwich hlaiiJH in a MasK Idoiw ofiion. their looks and actions proved them to be totally un- used to European visiters, and ignorant of all their commodities, — iron alone excepted ; and of this it was evident that they had merely heard, or obtained a small quantity at a distant period. When asked what it was, they replied, « We do not know ; we only understand it as toe or Aamai7e,"— the former signifying a hatchet, and the latter, probably referring to some native instru- ment, in the construction of which iron might be ad- vantageously substituted for stone or bone. When Indifference beads were shown to them, they inquired " Whether ibr beada they should eat them »" When their use was explained, they were given back as of no value, and a looking-glass was regarded with equal indifference. Plates of earthen- ware and ohina-cups were so new to their eyes, that they asked if they were made of wood. i COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. 373 About three o'clock, the vessels succeeded in anchor- Cir.VP. xr. ing, and Cook rowed to the land with three ai-mcd boats Reception and a party of marines. " 1'he very instant," he says, «h"rt'. " I leaped on shore, the collected body of the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble posture till by expressive signs I prevailed upon them to rise. They then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to me, with plantain-trees, present* using much the same ceremonies that we had seen practised on such occasions at the So<'iety and other islands ; and a long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which others of the assembly sometimes joined. I expressed my acceptance of their proffered friendship, by giving them in return such presents as I had brought with me from the ship for that purpose." * The same deferential obeisance was afterwards paid to nefcrcntial him during an excursion which he made through the country ; and he believed it to <>e the mode in wiiich the natives manifested respect to their own chiefs. The people assisted his men in rolling casks to and from the watering-place, readily performed whatever was required of them, and merited the commendations of their visiters by fair dealing ; there having been no attempt to cheat or to steal after the first interview. On the morning of the 23d, a breeze sprung up at pj^s^huwifj north-east, when, to avoid being driven on shore, it be- on bnee- came necessary to stand out to procure sea-room ; and ®"** the adverse winds and currents having drifted the vessels far from the harbour, after several unsuccessful attempts to regain it, they anchored off the neighbouring island of Oneeheow or Is'i-Hau. Here the captain deposited some goats, pigs of the English breed, and various useful seeds, which he had intended for Atooi. The provisions obtained at these islands were reckoned sufficient for nearly four weeks* consumption ; and, having thus re- cruited his stores, on the 2d of February he made sail with a gentle breeze to the northward. " Of what UII * Voyage to the Pacific, vol. ii. p. 198. ma 374 cook's third voyage. Tho Sand- wicli IslundflL Phrovcry of Ncw Albiun. I I CHAP. Xt number," he says, " this newly-discovered archipelago conbists, must be left for future investigation." Besides those visited, three others were seen, Woahoo or Oahu, Oreehoua, Tahoora orTaura. This group, l"ing between the latitudes of 21° 30' and 22° 16' N., and 199° 20' and 201° 30' east longitude, received, in honour of tho first lord of the Admiralty, the name of The Sandwich Islands. On the 7th, the wind, having veered to south-east, enabled the voyagtis to steer north-east and east till tho 12th, when another change induced them to stand to the northward. About a fortnight after, when proceeding more towards the east, they met with rockwecd or sta- leek, and now and then a pitce of wood floated past. During the whole of this course, scarcely a bird or living creature was seen ; but, on the 6th of March, two large fowls settled near the ships. The next day, two seals and several whales were observed ; and tho dawn of the '7th revealed the anxiously-ex|*!Bcted coast of New Albion, in latitude 44° 33' N., longitude 235° 20' E. It was richly wooded, of moderate height, and diversified with hills and valleys. To its northern extremity Cook gave the name of Cape Foulweather, from the gales which he experienced in its vicinity, and which obliged him to tack off and on several days. At length, after \ariou3 hazards, a large opening was observed on the 29th, in latitude 49° 16' N., longitude 233° 20' E., and from its promising appearance received the title of Hope Bay. Into this inlet he sailed four miles, when the night closing in, he came to anchor in deep water, within a hawser's length of the shore. It was certain that the country was inhabited ; a village was observed on the western side of the sound ; and three canoes shaped like Norway yawls came off. When they drew near, a native rose and made a long oration, apparently inviting the strangers to land, and at the same time he continued strewing feathers to- wards them, while some of his companions scattered handfuls of red powder. The speaker, who was dressed of tnhubit- br.t& SI': cook's TUIRU VOYAQB. 375 a a iff. CHAP XL Man of Nootka Sound. in the skin of an animal, held in each hand a kind of Native rattle ; and when he sat down, another began to declaim «P«e«J>c* in his turn, in a language wholly unintelligible to their visiters. They then quietly conversed among them- selves, betraying neither distrust nor surprise ; some of them occasionally stood up and made harangues ; and one sang a very pleasant air, with a softness quite un- expected. The next day, the vessels were removed to a safer Wcndiy anchorage, amid a great concourse of the inhabitants. Their disposition was quiet and friendly, and they will- ingly supplied the voyagers with such provisions as they possessed, though their refusal to accept any thing but metal in exchange gave rise to some perplexity. They preferred brass to iron ; and we are told that, to gratify their demands, " whole suits of clothes were stripped of every button, bureaux of their furniture, and copper-kettles tin-canisters^ candlesticks, and the 2 A . iMH Ml 376 COORDS THIRD VOTAOB. CHAT. XL Woman of Nootka Sound. Nootk^ °' like, all went to wreck." The name of the sound was Sound. Nootka ; and the natives are described as being under the common size, with full round visages and small black eyes. In many individuals the ears were per- forated in two or three places, for the purpose of sus- pending bits of bone, quills fixed on a thong of leather, shells, bunches of woollen tassels, or pieces of thin copper. Ornaments of iron, brass, or copper, shaped like a horse's shoe, were frequently introduced into the septum of the nose, from which they dangled over the upper lip. The sexes so nearly resembled each other in dress and stature, that it was difficult to distinguish them ; the females, it is said, ** possess no natural deli- cacies sufficient to render their persons agreeable."* * Voyage to the Pacific, vol. ii. p. 303. The reader will find ome dtttaUs of Cook's proceedings on the American shores in the cook's third voyage. 377 »* Nearly a month was passed in uninterrupted friendship chap. xt. among these savages ; and when the ships weighed Friendly anchor, they followed the strangers to the mouth of the parting dound, importuning them to repeat their visit, and pro- mising an ample supply of skins. The voyagers reached the opipn sea on the 26th of storm at sea. April ; but scarcely had they cleared the land, when a storm coming on, accompanied with such darkness that they could not see beyond the ship's length, they were obliged to stand out from the shore with all the sail which the vessels could carry. They did not regain the coast till the 1st of May, in the parallel of 65° 20' ; on the 4th they saw Mount St Elias, in latitude 58° 52', and nine days after came to anchor in an inlet two degrees towards the north, on which they bestowed the name of Prince William's Sound. The natives were Prince ^ strong chested, with thick stout necks, and heads dispro- sound.™ ' portionately large ; their hdr was black and straight ; and their beards, which wei'e generally thin, were in many altogether wanting. ** A mark," says Admiral Bumey, " which distinguished these people from every other known, was their under lips being perforated or slit through in a line parallel to the mouth, and about three quarters of an inch lower, through which they wore pieces of carved bone ; and sometimes, which had a hideous effect, they would remove the bone-ornament, ^'"j'^"!"[ and thrust as much as they could of their tongue deformity, through the opening." * This incision, indeed, was not universally adopted, and the sailor who iirst noticed it, called out that the man had two mouths. The ears, however, were generally pierced, and bunches of beads suspended from them ; while the nose was ornamented by thrusting through the septum a quill of three or four inches in length. They wore high truncated caps of straw or wood, like those observed at Nootka. The Edinburgh Cabinet Library, No. IX., Pro^rress of Discovery on the more Northern Coasts of America, p. 104-1 10. • Blimey 's Chronological History of North-Eustem Voyages of Discovery (London, liifU), p. 222. 378 cook's third tot age. CHAP. XI. Female onuuueuta Cook's River. Promontory of Alaska. Cape Oouamiik. females allowed their hair to grow long, and the majoiity tied a small lock of it on the crown. In some the lower lip was bored in several places, to admit tho introduc- tion of strings of shells or beads of such length as oc- casionally to hang below the point of the chin. The commander saHed hence on the 20th, and pur- sued his course along the coast, which now trended to the southward. On the 2dd, he reached an opening to the north, into which he steered the ships, in the expec- tation of finding the desired termination of the Ameri- can continent. It was, however, soon discovered to be only an inlet or an arm of the sea leading to the mouths of two rapid streams : no name was bestowed on it at the time, but the Earl of Sandwich afterwards directed that it should be called Cook's River. Eleven days were spent in its examination, and the vessels did not clear its entrance before the 6th of June. They now sailed south-westward along the great promontory of Alaska, passing several islands in their course, till the 19th, when some natives came off and delivered a wooden box, containing a note written in Russian characters. Unfortunately these w^ere unintelligible to the voyagers, but they deciphered the dates 1776 and 1778 ; and the captain was of opinion that it was a paper left by Russian traders to be delivered to any of their countrymen who should next visit these regions. On the 2Cth, the vesf Js reached a large island, which was found to be one of the Aleoutian or Fox Archipelago, called No wan Al- sacha or Oonaloska ; and two days after they came to an anchor in the small bay of Samgonoodha, on its south, eastern shore. On the 2d ur July, they again made sail, and doub- ling Cape Oonamak, coasted the northern side of the peninsula till they arrived at a large bay, which re- ceived the name of Bristol, while its northern point was called Cape Newenham. On the 3d of August, they had attained the latitude of 62° 34' N., and on that day died Mr Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution. " The reader of this journal," says Cook, " will have observed OOOK^B THIRD VOYAGE. 370 CHAP. XL Man of Prince WUiiiun'i Sound. how useful an assistant I had found him in the course Death of Mr of the voyage ; and had it pleased God to have spared ■*^°^«™'°- his life, the public, I make no doubt, might have re- ceived from him such communications on the natural history of the several places we visited, as would have abundantly shown that he was not unworthy of this commendation. Soon after he had breathed his la<'t, land was seen to the westward ; it was supposed to be an island ; and to perpetuate the memory of the de- ceased, for whom I had a very great regard, I named it Andcnon'i Anderson's Island." * Island. * Vo^ai^ to the Pacific, vol. ii. pp. 439, 440. Burney's Chron. Hist, of North-East. Voya^^es of Discovery, p. 232>284. From the circumstance tliat Anderson's Island has not been seen by subseqaent visiters, there might have been some grounds for qufmtioning Cook's accuracy i but Beechey has informed us, that he ** discovered a note by Captain Bli^^h, who was the master with Captain Cook, writtsa in pencil on the margin of the Admiralty copy of Cook's Third 380 cook's thikd voyage. CHAP. XI. I Defective clioi'is. Woman of Prince William'i Sound. The discoverers were now at the southern entrance of Behring's Strait, though, from the defective nature of the charts then in use, they were not aware of this important fact. On the 5th, they anchored near a small island off the continent, and Cook, after landing, gave it the name of Sledge, from having found one on the shore, though no inhabitants were seen.* Four Voyage, by which it is evident that the compilers of the chart have overlooked certain data collected oiF the eastern end of St Law. rence Island, on the return of the expedition from Norton Sound, and that the lard named Anderson's Island was the eastern end ot the island of St Lawrence. Had Cook*s life been spared, he would no doubt have made the necessary correction in his chart." — Voyage to the Pacific, vol. r, p. 29SL * The native name has since been ascertained to be Ayak ; and Captain Beechuy remarks the singular coincidence, that this word. in the language of the Esquimaux, signifies a sledge' — Vojage to the Pacific, vol. i. p. 400. cook's third voyage. 381 ce re lis a on ur ive iw- nd, lot uld iga ind >rd. I to days after, in the latitude of 65° 46' N., and longitude ciiap. xi. 168° IS' W., he reached a remarkable promontory, the -r- most westerly point of America yet known, to which he of Waie& gave the title of Cape Prince of Wales. In the even- ing, the coast of Asia came in view, when he stood across the strait, and having passed three islands,* an- chored on the following morning in a harbour of the Tschuktschi territories, where the natives^ though much alarmed, received the voyagers with unexpected polite- ness, taking o^ their caps and making low bows. From this port, which he named the Bay of St Lawrence, ^ ^^gj^ he stood over to the north-east to prosecute his ex- Luwreuce. amination of the American coast. On the l4tli, he was in latitude 67° 45', near a cape which was named Point Mulgrave, and three days after he encountered a field of ice, dense and impenetrable, extending from west by south to east by north, as far as the eye could wander. The following day, he reached the parallel of 70°' 44' N., when his progress was arrested by the ice, which was ten or twelve feet in height, and com- pact as a wall. The remotest point in sight towards icy Capa the east, named, from the glaciers which surrounded it. Icy Cape, lay in latitude 70° 29' N., and longitude 161° 42' W., and nearly half a century elapsed before the limits of European discovery were carried beyond this dreary headland.t * When in B£hrin^*8 Straits, in 1816, the Russian commander, Behrinp;'a Kotzebue, fancied that he saw /our islands; and as that which he StraitSi conceived himself to have discovered considerably exceeded the others in size, he was 8urprii<ed *<that neither Cook nor Clerke should have seen it, as Imth their courses led them close by it ; and," he adds, "it has occurred to me that it may have since risen from the sea." — Voyage of Discovery into the South Sea and Behring's Straits, in the years 1815-1818 (L(»ndon, 1821), vol. i. p. 198. But Captain Beechey subsequently found that Kotzebue's supposed discovery has no existence, and that " the islands in the strait are only three in number, and occupying nearly the same situations in which they were placed in the chart of Captain Cook." — Vo\'ageto the Pacific, vol. i. p 3;{5-338, and pn. 399, 400. -)■ In 1826, the expedition of Beechey extended our knowledge of the American coast 126 miles north-east of Icy Cape, to a promon- tory named Point Barrow, in latitude 71° 23' 31" N., longitude 382 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. CHAP. XL Abandon- ment of northern exploration. Natives of Oonalaaka. Present of a ■almon-pie. The season was now too far advanced to leave any hope that the great object of the voyage could hi ac- complished before winter. Abandoning, therefore, all attempts to find a passage into the Atlantic, Cook turned his course to the southward, and, on the 2d September, passed the most eastern promontory of Asia, ascertain- ing the breadth of the strait, where narrowest, to be thirteen leagues. He coasted its western shores till he made the point called Tschukotzkoi Noss, when he again crossed to the American continent ; and having explored the large gulf named Norton Sound, anchored on the 8d of October in Samgonoodha Harbour, in the island of OonalatJca.* The natives of this place were the most peaceable and inoiFensive people he had met with. Their stature was rather low ; their necks short ; their faces swarthy and chubby, with black eyes and small beards. Their houses were large oblong pits in the ground, covered with a roof, which was tliatched with grass and earth, so that, in external appearance, they resembled dunghills. Towards each end a square opening was left, one of which served as a window, while the other was used as a door, the ascent or de- scent being facilitated by a post with steps cut in it. A few days after their arrival, the captains were sur- prised by the present of a salmon-pie, baked in rye- ilour, which, with a note in the Russian language, was delivered to them by two natives from a distant part of the island. John Ledyard, afterwards distinguished as a traveller, then a corporal of marines, volunteered his services to proceed with the messengers, and discover 156" W. — Yo3^e to the Pacific, vol. i. p. 425. Prnc;res8 of Dis- covery on the more Northern Coasts of' America, p. 289. * "Here," says Burney, "closed our first season of northern discovery, — a season of unremittin^r activity. The ability and dili- gence exercised will best ai)pear by comparing tlie map of the world, as it stood previous to this voya^re, with the map of the world drawn immediately after ; and by keepin)r in miud, that tlie addi- tion of so large an extent of intricate coast, before unknown, was effected by the labour of a single expedition, in little more than half a-year."— Chron. Hi/tt o*' ^orth-East. Discov., p. 251 M ■ %:r^ m 382 COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. CHAP. XL The season was now too far advanced to l«rtv#» «ny Abandon- ment of northern exploratioD. Natives of Oonalaska. Present of a lalmon-piei. B.. : JtC- th'.'reforo, all • %}ok turned . «.'l'^"Uun- ■^ to be tm I, V* Iwn he (ifld having i^ anclvoTt'd .iour, ill the hope that the f complished beA attempts to find his course to th passed the most ing the breadtl thirteen league he made the po again crossed t Uw *^Ju. . explored the lai t Kulf t^au '. - on the 3d of 0< >hvv in .SauiK island of Oonal ka.'^' Tli-: nativt^u vt ihis pUco wcro the most peacci I« and inofit usivc peuplo he had met with. Their st .uiu whh ratlior low ; tJioirnei-ks short ; their faces swa ! vilnv ' - yes uiui small beards. •'■"■- ' >ts in the ground, co \:.'ted with grass and ;ipj>)KHrance, they resembled . .sicb tn*| a iKiuave opening was 1< > . .^i. <■»', vk ui-. a divert <w i> vtinduw, while the othe waa tmd a» h dno ., tlu asceut or de- scent being faci! uud hy a pest vvitli i.iops o\«& in it. A few days a ''i- ciieiv nrvivaj, the captains wero sur- prised by the ■ resent of a »!ilnK>u-]ue, baked in f^t- flour, which, w * a mtti in tiic liiiwian langnagt% vaS delivered to the ^' '• * ■ art of the island. J rvhtd as a traveller, t . !:«;r«l his services to p tfia dibcover 156» W Voyage > tho l'a«.ifu\ v<^J. i p. 42'i5, Vixp-asfi (A' Dis- covery on the mon NoriJiBin ("ijaMfs of'.AitiL^rka, jx iJJiy. * "Here," says llurrsey, '-ohrti-d n.ur lirst *«ya!»«)ii oi' nort^orn discovery, — a seas* i uf »ii>>vmit(i:?j4 miivit^. Tin? al>ihly »**.! ..',iv- gence exercised wi 'ifsi ar^^car i)y ciiiti|)ant)g iUf. mn\i oi tl-m- w^rU, as it stood previo : lo tins voyage, wiili tin* niaji ti( '.!r>- wfjfMi drawn immediatel' ' ■ - ' ' ' tion of so large an cAicut ut iiitiicuie uuuAit uetuit; uu&uuwii, was eiFected by the labour of a single expedition, in little more than haU'a-year."— Chron. Hi«t o^^orth-Kast. Discov., p. 2d) 4 I n 3- C e 7 > Fr- a I ft « 11 s 1 5 li »• >• s t \ ^< m»m ' I I - I I II" ^•^ ^ • .tu-^ -*^»* -'-fW.. * ■■%*' 4 cook's third voyage. S85 by whom the friendly gift had been sent. He returned after two days, along with three Russian traders, whose visit was shortly followed by that of Mr Ismylofl; the principal person in the island, with whom, as far as signs and figures permitted, mutual communication of geographical knowledge and kindly intercourse took place. To this hospitable and excellent individual, Cook intrusted a letter to the Admiralty, enclosing a chart of his discoveries, which was faithfully transmit- ted. On the 26th, our navigator set sail for the Sand- wich Islands, where he now proposed to pass the winter^ if he should find sufficient supplies of provisions. On the 26th of November, nearly in the latitude of 20° 59' N., ho discovered Mowce or Maui, one of the Sandwich group, lying farther west than those visited in his voyage towards the north. The country seemed well wooded and watered, and the inhabitants were evidently of the same nation with the tribes to leeward. On the evening of the 30th, another and a much larger island, Owhyhee or Hawaii, was discovered to windward ; and as he drew near its northern shores, the captain saw with surprise that the tops of the mountains were covered with snow to a considerable depth. Nearly seven weeks were passed in sailing round it in search of a harbour ; but at length a large bay named Kara- kaooa was observed on the western side, and he came to anchor on the morning of the l7th January 1779. " I had nowhere," says he, ** in the course of my voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place ;" the ships were covered with the natives ; vast multitudes came off in canoes ; many hundreds were swimming around ** like shoals of fish," and even the shores of the bay were thronged with spectators. One feeling of pleasure seemed to pervade this great crowd, and was expressed in shouts, in songs, and a variety of wild and extravagant motions. In gazing on the lofty vessels of the English, the people of Owhyhee beheld the fulfilment of an ancient prophecy. At an early period of their history, when CHAP. XL Visited by Russian traderti OiscoTeiy of Mowee liluad. i Karakaona Bay, OwliyliMk ■Sa*^' 3H6 COOK'S THIRD V0TA6B. Divine bououm CRAP. XL the peace and plenty of the golden age prevailed among I7stiv7~ them, there lived, near Karakaooa, a god named Rono, The beautiful goddess Opuna having proved unfaithful to his bed, he threw her from the summit of a precipice; but soon becoming frantic with remorse, he roamed throughout the islands, boxing and wrestling witli every one he could meet. Having deposited the mangled body of hb consort in a morai, near the bay, he remained there for a long time in the deepest dejection and sorrow, and at length determined to quit the country where so many objects reminded him of his loss and of his crime. He accordingly set sail for a foreign land in a strangely shaped canoe, having promised that he would one day come back on a floating island, fumbhed ^vith all that man could deiire.* After his departure, he was worshipped as a god, and annual games were established in his honour. Tha fulfilment of his assurance to return was eagerly looked for ; and when the vessels under Cook arrived, it w«n believed that the prediction had come to pass ; the ships Native »n)ff'. * '^^^ American missiunaries have preserved one of the songs in which this tradition is embodied, entitled, O RoNO Akua. 1. Rono, Etooah ^or Akua, that t«, Grodl of Hawaii, in ancient times resided with his wife at Karakaooa. 2. The name of tlie goddess, his love, was Eaikiranee-Aree- Opuna. They dwelt beneath the steep rock. d. A man ascended to the summit, and, from the height, thus nd< dressed the spouse of Rono : — 4. ^ O Kaikiranee-Aree-Opuna, your Ipver salutes you. Keep this— remove that : one will still remain." 6. Rono, overhearing this artful speech, killed his wife with a hasty stroke. (i. Sorry for this rash deed, he carried to a morai the lifeless body of his wife, and made great wail over it. 7' He travelled through Hawaii in a state of phrensy, boxing with every man he met. 8. The people, astonished, said, << Is Rono entirely mad ?** He replied, ** 1 am frantic on her account, I am frantic with my g^reat love." 9. Having instituted games to commemorate her death, he em- barked in a triangular boat [piama lau] and railed to a foreign land 1C. Ere he departed he prophesied, <* I will return in after-times, on an island bearing cocoa* nut-trees, and swine, and dogs. " — Voyag> of H. M. S. Blomte to the Sandwich Islands (London, 1826^ p^ W. cook's third voyage. 387 were regarded as mottu or islands, and their commander CHAT. XL was hailed as the long-nbsent Rono, who had at length snnpMcd re-appeared to restore the reign of content and happi- choractor of ness.* It is to be regretted that this belief was not ^*^^ known to the English ; and in perusing the following details of the divine honours and worship with which Cook was received, the reader must, in justice to our great countryman, bear in mind that he was ignorant of their true intent. Shortly after the Resolution was moored, two chiefs nis wonhtp brought on board a priest named Koah, who, approaching ^^^y^^^ the captain with much veneration, threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, and having retired a few paces, made an offering of a small pig, while he pro> nouuced a long oration. This ceremony performed, the holy sage sat down to table, eating freely of the viands before him ; and, in the evening, the commander, with Messrs King and Bayly, accompanied him on shore. On /mding. they were met by four men, bearing wands tipped with dog's hair, who advanced before them shouting a few words, among which Rono, or Orono, was very distinguishable. Of the immense crowd pre- viously collected the whole had now retired, except a few who lay prostrate on the ground beside the adjoining Moi-uL village. Near the beach there stood a moral, consisting of a pile of stones, fourteen yards in height, twenty in brt>adth, and forty in length ; the summit of this erection was well paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were iixed several skulls. In the centre was an old wooden building ; at one side, five poles, more than twenty feet high, supported an irregular scaffold ; and on the other were two small houses, between which there was a covered communication. The voyagers were conducted to this spot by an easy as'.'ent, and at the * Ellis* Polynesian ResearcheR, vol. iv. p. 134 Kotxebne's Voyaee round Ihe World in 1823.182S, (London, 1830), vol. I. p. l()f-16e, and p. 179-184. Voyage of the Blonde, p. 24-28. Frej- cioet, Voyage autour du Monde, tome U. p. 1(96. 388 COOK 8 THIBD VOYAGE. CHAP. XL Native ido]& Ceremonial presentti. Proceedings before tbe idola. entrance, where they saw two large idols with distorted features, they were met by Kaireekeea, a tall young man with a long beard, who jiresented Cook to the statues, and having chanted a hymn, in which Koah joined, led him to that part of the moral where the poles were erected. Under these stood twelve images ranged in a semicircle, and before the idol in the centre was a high table, containing a putrid hog, pieces of sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, and other fruit. The priest, placing the captain under this stand, took down the carcass, and held it towards him; then, addressing him in a long speech delivered with great fervour and rapidity, he dropped the animal, and lei him to the scaffold, which both ascended, not without great hazard. At this time appeared in solemn procession ten men, who bore a live hog and a large piece of red cloth, and, advancing a few paces, prostrated themselves and delivered the latter to Kaireekeea. He carried it to Koah, who, having wrapped it round the Englishman, offered him the pig, which was brought with like ceremony. These two personages now began to chant, sometimes together, and sometimes alternately, while the navigator remained on the scaffold, swathed in red. When the song was over, the priest threw down the hog, and having descended with Cook, led him before the images, each of which he addressed, seemingly in a sneering tone, snapping his fingers as he passed, till, coming in front of that in the centre, supposed to be of higher estimation than the others, he threw himself prostrate and kissed it. The commander was desired to do the same, and, we are told, ** suffered himself to be directed by Koah through- out the whole of this ceremony." The party was next conducted to another division of the moral, sunk about three feet below the level of the area, where Cook was seated between two idols, the sacred functionary sup- porting one of his arms, and Captain King the other. When in this position a second procession drew near, bearing a baked pig, with bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, the first of which Kaireekeea presented to him, and I cook's tdird totaoe^ 380 again began to chant; while his companions made chap. xr. regular responses, in which they frequently used the preparations word Orono. On the conclusion of this ritual, which toraiwwu occupied the fourth part of an hour, the natives, sitting down in front of the strangers, began to cut up the hog, peel the vegetables, and prepare avOf by the same pro- cess as that practised in Tonga and elsewhere. Part of a cocoa-nut was taken by Kaireekeea, and having been chewed by him and wrapped in cloth, was rubbed on the navigator's face, head, hands, arms, and shoulders. Then the ava was handed round ; after which the priest and another chief began to feed their visiters by putting pieces of the flesh into their mouths. *' I had no great Unpalatable objection," says Captain King, " to being fed by Pareea, '*'*°'^^ who was very cleanly in his person ; fcui Captain Cook, who was served by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel ; and his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not diminished, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him." * This was the last part of the ceremony, and the English, after distributing iron and other articles, quitted the moral, and were coPaucted to the boats by men bearing wands as before, — the people again retiring, and the few who remained fulling down before them as they walked along the beach. Several days pas jd without any event of interest : ^^^'^tory the observatory was erected, supplies of provisions were procured, and the necessary repairs executed on the ship's. Whenever the commander landed, a sacred herald marched before him, proclaiming the approach of Orono, and desiring the people to prostrate themselves. Offerings were made to him ; and, in a temple called Harre-no-Orono, he was subjected to a repetition of the various rites with which he was worshipped on his first landing. The priests daily supplied both the ships and the party which was stationed on sliore with hogs and vegetables beyond what was really needed, and not only • Voyage to the Pacific, vol. iii. p. 8. A lii 392 cook's third voyaob. CHAP. XL Preparations for a parting gilt Valuable donations. Departure from Kiini- luooa Bay great consumption of hogs and vegetables, the desire expressed for their absence can excite little surprise ; but, so far was the monarch from entertaining any hostile feeling towards them, when he made inquiry as to the day of sailing, that it is manifest he was actuated only by a wish to prepare suitable gifts for the occasion. He was told that the voyagers would leave the island in two days, and a proclamation was immediately made throughout the villages, commanding the inhabitants to bring hogs and vegetables to be offered to Orono on his departure. At the time fixed, Terreeoboo invited the two commanders to visit him ; and, on arriving at his residence, they saw the ground covered with parcels of cloth, a vast quantity of red and yellow feathers, and a great number of hatchets and other instruments of iron, procured in barter with the ships ; while at a little distance they observed a large herd of hogs, with an immense quantity of vegetables of every kind. The king, having set apart about a third of the iron-ware, feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, ordered the remainder of the robes, with all the hogs and vegetables, to be presented to the English, who were astonished at the value and magnitude of the donation, *' which far ex- ceeded every thing of the kind they had seen, either at the Friendly or Society Islands." Captain King was among the last to quit the island, and the natives crowded round him, lamenting his approaching departure. They ui*ged him to remain among them, and even made offers of the most flattering kind ; and when he informed them that Captain Cook, whose son they supposed him to be, would not quit the bay without him, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited on the commander, and requested that his colleague might be left behind. Unwilling to give a direct refusal, he parted from them with a pr lise, that he would revisit the island the succeeding year, and en- deavour to gratify their wishes. Ho sailed from Karakaooa Bay on the 4th of Feb- ruary, with the intention of completing his survey of the archiyclago. On the 8th, he was still in sight of cook's third voyage. 3J)3 of Owhyhee, when it was perceived that the foremast of the chap xi. Resolution had given way during a gale which sprang j^^j,^^. up at midnight. Before this injury could be repaired, the Buy. it was necessary to take out the mast, — an ojioration which could only be performed in some secure anchor- age ; and no other harbour having been discovered, it was determined to return to that which had been so lately quitted ; and on the 11th, the vessels came to moorings nearly in the same place as before. That, and part of the following day, were employed in sending workmen and materials on shore, together with the as- tronomical apparatus, under guard of a corporal and six marines ; and the friendly priests tabooed the posi- tion against annoyance from the inhabitants. The voyagers were struck with the altered appear- Chnn«:H«t ance of the bay, which was now silent and deserted, "f tUciliiy? except by one or two canoes. Some individuals, indeed, came off with provisions, but they were few in number, and the vast multitude which had been assembled on the former visit seenoed to have dispersed on the depar- ture of the ships. On the evening of the 13th, several chiefs interfer- Wnriiko.io- ed to prevent the natives from assisting the sailors in monstiauons. rolling the water-casks ; and shortly afterwards, the islanders armed themselves with stones, and became insolent and tumultuous. Alarmed by these indications, Captain King went to the spot ; and on his remonstrat- ing with the leaders, they dispersed the mob, and allowed the casks to be filled in quietness. He then went to meet Cook, who was rowing towards the land in the pinnace, and having communicated to him what had just passed, was directed, in the event of any attack on the part of the people, to fire on them with ball. In a short time after, they were alarmed by a continued dis- charge of muskets from the Discovery, against a canoe which was seen paddling hastily towards the shore, pursued by a small boat. The commander, concluding that a theft had been committed, ordered King to follow him with an armed marine, in order to seize the dclin- 2b 394 COOK*S THIRD VOYAGB. CHAP. XT. Affray with the natives. Apprehen- sions uf the chiet III RpRtets cf Cuok. quents as they landed. These, however, escaped into the country, and Cook, having pursued them about three miles without success, returned to the beach, ignorant that the stolen articles had been recovered. Meanwhile, the officer in the small boat, not content with this success, seized the canoe of the offender, when Pareea, one of the principal nobles, claimed the skiff as his property. A violent affray ensued, in which the chief was knocked down by a blow from an oar. This was no sooner observed by his followers than they at- tacked the English with a shower of stones, and forcing them to retreat, began to ransack a pinnace belonging to the Resolution, which would have been forthwith demolished, had not Pareea driven away the crowd. He made signs to the voyagers to return and take pos- session of their boat, which they did, while he promised to use his endeavours to get back the rest of their pro- perty. As they were proceeding to the ships, he fol- lowed them, and restored the cap of Mr Vancouver, one of the midshipmen, and some other trifling articles. He appeared much concerned at what had happened, and inquired " if Orono would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next day !'* Being assured that he should suffer no harm, he joined noses with the officers, the usual token of friendship, and paddled off towards the village of Kowrowa. On learning these events, which had occurred during his pursuit of the fugitives. Cook appeared deeply mor- tified at their unfortunate result, and said to Captain King, " 1 am afraid that these people will oblige me to use some violent measures ; for they must not be left to imagine that they have gained an advantage over us." It was too late to take any steps that evening ; and this officer, having executed the orders he received to re- move all the natives from the vessels, returned to the shore. Feeling less confidence in the barbarians, he also posted a double guard on the moral where his party was lodged. About eleven o'clock, five men were observed creeping round the building, who, on finding them- COOK 8 TUrRD VOYAGE. 395 »> ,0 re- solves discovered, retired out of sight ; and, about an hour afterwards, one of them, having ventured up close to the observatory, a musket was fired over liim by tlie sentinel, which put the whole to flight. No other interruption was offered, but " those who were on duty," says Mr Sam well, " were disturbed during the night with shrill and melancholy sounds, issuing from the adjacent villages, which they took to be the lamenta- tions of the women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might have filled their minds with apprehensions for the safety of their husbands ; but, be that as it may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels with unusual awe." * With daylight of the next morning, Sunday the 14th, it was discovered that the six-oared cutter of the Dis- covery had been stolen. It was moored to a buoy close by the ship, in such a manner that its gunwale was level with the surface of the sea, and though under the eye of the watch, it had been cut from its fastenings and carried off without observation. On being informed of this theft. Cook desired his colleague to go on shore and endeavour to pei'suade the king, Terreeoboo, to exert his authority for the recovery of the boat. Unfortunately, Captain Clerke was so • Narrative of tlie Deatli ot'Ca|)taiii James Cook, &c., by David Samwell, Surgeon of the Discovery (Lond. 17H<)), p. 8. It may be pn>per liere to indicate the sources from whicli the account given in the present work of the unfortunate transactions which took place during this and the foHowing day has been drawn. Tliey are, ls<. The relation of Captain King in tiie Voyage to the Pacific, vol. iii. p. 35-62. 2d, The narrative of Mr Samwell, quoted alwve. 3rf, That; of the late Admiral Burney, in his Chron. Hist, f f North- East. Voy. of Discov., p. 2o5-26(). [These writers were eye witnesses of the whole or part ot the events which they describe.] 4//i, The anecdotes collected from a resident in and natives of the Sandwich Islands, by IVIr Mariner, in his Account of the Tonga Archipelago, vol. i. p. 72-74. 6lhi The account gathered from the natives by Mr Ellis, Polynesian Researches, vol. iv. p. 13U I^IB. 6///, The narrative of Kotzebue, New V^oyage round tlie World, vol. i. p. 17!^-liiB. As might be expected, these authorities exhibit various discrepancies, which it has been our endeavour to reconcile as far as possible. The account given by Kotzebue has been used with considerable caution, as its accuracy has been impeached. See Mr Ellis' Vindication of the Soutl iSea Mis.siuns (I.oud. Iii31), |). 13. CJIAP. XI. Difitnrbanca JurInK tlie night Cutter of tha discovery Btoleu. Ciptatn Cicrke de- sired to vhit the king. n96 CO0K*S THIRD VOYAGE. CHAP. XI. weak as to be unable to undertake the expedition, and TookTt - the great navigator determined to go in pereon. At tliia mines to go time King came on board the Resolution, where he found In person, ^j^^ rapines getting ready their arms, and the commander loading his doubie-barrelled gun. While relating the events which had occurred at the moral during the night, he was interrupted by the other " with some eagerness," and made acquainted with the loss of the cutter, and the plan which he had formed for its recovery. This was, as on similar occasions,* to get possession of the sovereign, or some of the principal chiefs, and detain tliein till the stolen property was restored. In the event of this method failing, he resolved to make reprisals on the vessels in the harbour, and with this view ordered three boats to stations near the outer points of the bay, with directions to give no molestation to the small skitfd, but to prevent the departure of any large canoe. KNTieditiontc A little before eight o'clock, Cook left the Resolution visit the kintr. a^d rowed towards the village of Kov/rowa, where the king resided. He landed along with Lieutenant Philips, a sergeant, two corporals, and six private marines, and as he proceeded towards the hamlet, he >»as received with all accustomed respect, the people prostrating themselves at his approach, and presenting him with small hogs. On inquiring for Terreeoboo and his sons, the latter, two 3'ouths who had been his constant guests on board ship, came to him in a short time, and instantly conducted him towards the house where their father Offers ot pi u- was. On his way, he was joined by several chiefs, some of whom more than once asked if he wanted any hogs or other provisions ; to which he replied, that he did not, and that his business was to see the king. On reaching the royal residence, he ordered some of the natives to inform the monarch of his desire to speak with him ; but these, returning without an answer, only presented pieces of red cloth ; when he, suspecting from this circumstance that his majesty was not there, • See above, pp. 271, 356; 3(i8. Vibiuns. COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 3i)7 »» directed Lieutenant Philips to enter. This gentleman CIIAP. xl found the prince newly wakened from sleep, who, confluence of though apparently alarmed at the message, at once came leirceoboo. out. The captain took him by the hand, and invited him to spend the day on board the Resolution, to which he at once consented, and the party proceeded towards the boats, — Terreeoboo leaning on the shoulder of the lieutenant, while his youngest son, Kaoowa, had reached the shore and taken his seat in the pinnace. Cook was perfectly satisfied from what he had learned that the cutter had been stolen without the knowledge of the king. It was while these things were passing, that the boats UnfortnnjTte placed near the south point of the harbour, oliscrving a with t|,c "^ large canoe endeavouring to leave the bay, fired several "utivcs. muskets over the heads of her crew, with the view of preventing their escape. One of the balls unfortunately killed a chief who happened to be on the shore ; and two islanders immediately proceeded to the ships to complain to the commander, and finding that he was at Kowrowa, followed him thither. Terreeoboo, accompanied by his English friend, had ^Vllrlikc vm- already advanced almost to the water's edge, when his P^'"'"""*- people, conscious of transgression, began to put on their war-mats, and to equip themselves with spears, clubs, and daggers. One of his favourite wives came after him, and throwing her arms about his neck, with many tears and entreaties besought him to go no farther ; and with the help of two chiefs, she even forced him to sit down by the side of a canoe, telling him he would be put to death if he went into the ship. No ardour of expostulations could overcome their fears ; and the natives, in the mean while, collecting in great force %long the shore, began to throng around their sovereign. While they did so, an old priest advanced towards the captain holding out a cocoa-nut as a present, and, in spite of all entreaty or remonstrance, singing aloud, with the purpose, it was thoughtj of diverting attention from his countrymen, who were every moment growii g 398 cook's third totaqb. DaiigeroiM pmitlon of the party. Moderntlon of Couk. CHAP. XI. more tumultuous. Perceiving the dangerons position in which the voyagers were now placed, and that his men were too much crowded together to use their arms with effect, the marine officer proposed to withdraw his party to some rocks close to the water-side, at the dis- tance of about thirty yards, — a measure which was promptly adopted, the crowd making way without re- luctance. Previously to this, it is related by Mr Samwell that Koah was observed lurking near with an iron dagger partly concealed under hb cloak, with the intention apparently of stabbing Captain Cook or Lieu- tenant Philips. The latter proposed to Are at him, but was forbidden by his commander ; the savage, however, still pressing nearer, the officer struck him with his piece, on which he retired ; another islancier seized on the musket of the sergeant, and attempted to wrench it from bis grasp, but a blow from the lieutenant forced him to abandon his hold. Terreeoboo remained seated, Alarm of the in a state of alarm and dejection, while our navigator urged him in the most pressing manner to proceed, and such was the irresolution of the monarch, that his per- suasions might have prevailed, if the chiefs had not interposed, first with earnest entreaties, afterwards with threats of violence. The captain held the timid prince by the hand ; but seeing the general alarm of the natives, he let go his grasp, observing to Lieutenant Philips, that it would be impossible to force him on board without much bloodshed, and that other means must be employed to recover the boat. The perplexed ruler was immediately taken away, and was no more seen ; while Cook, in company with the lieutenant, slowly turned his steps towards the beach. At this moment, a native from the opposite shore of the bay rushed into the crowd, almost breathless, ex- claiming, " It is war ! The foreigners have commenced hostilities, — have fired on a canoe from one of their boats, and killed a chief!" * This announcement occa- king. War declarcli * F.llis' Pol}'nesiaa Researches, vol. It. p. 131. COOK*S THIRD YOYAOB. 399 sioned a violent ferment ; the women and children CHAP. XL immediately disappeared; while such of the men as coIMot had not already armed themseVes, hastened to put on with the their war- mats and seize their spears. One of them '"'**^''^ advanced towards Cook, flourishing a long iron spike or pahooOy hy way of defiance, and threatening to throw a stone which he held in his hand. Although called en to keep back, he continued to draw nearer, when our navigator considered it necessary to fire on him with small shot. The savage received the full discharge on his thick mat, which he held up in derision, crying out " Matteemanoo /*' — The gun is only fit to kill birds,— and poised his spear as if to hurl it at his antagonist, who, unwilling to take away his life, knocked him down with the butt-end of his musket. The only object now contemplated by the discoverer was the safety of his party ; but the remonstrances which he addressed to the islanders on their turbulence were answered by a vulley of stones, which brought do^vn one of the marines. A native was observed in the act of darting a spear at him, when, in self-defence, he discharged his piece, but, missing his aim, killed another near the assailant, wiio was equally engaged in the tumult. This was instantly Gcrerai followed by a general attack with stones, which was *''*'^ answered by musketry from the marines, succeeded by that of the people in the boats. The captain, expressing his astonishment at the conduct of the lattor, v\'aved his hand towards them, and called on them to cease firing and pull close in to receive the marines. The pinnace accordingly approached as near as it could without touching the ground ; but the launch, apparently from misunderstanding the signal, was unfortunately drawn farther off. There was on that morning a considerable swell in the bay, and the surf on the shore was greater than usual, so that the boats were obliged to lie off on their oars ; and from the noise of the waves on the rocks and the uproar of the multitude, it was impossible for them to hear their commander's orders with dis- tinctness. m 400 cook's THlllD VOYAQR. Hotrrnt tn the buulii. CHAP. XL The natives, contrary to expectation, had stood the Coiiratfrof fire with great firmness, and though they fell back the natives, at first, they advanced before the murines had time to reload, and broke in upon them with frightfiul yells. After this all was horror and confusion. The soldiers were borne down and forced into the water, where four of them were slain and three dangerously hurt. Among the latter was the lieutenant, who, after he had gained the pinnace, perceiving one of his men left on the shore, gallantly leapt overhoard, and, swimming to the .rocka, succeeded in bringing him off in safety.* Cook, who had lingered behind, was now observed walking towards the boats ; ho held his musket in one hand, and the other was placed against the back of his head, to protect it from the stones showered hy the natives. A man followed him, but cautiously and timidly, stopping once or twice, irresolute whether to strike or not ; and it was i*emarked that, when the captain's face was towards the barbarians, none of them offered any violence. On reaching the water's edge, he turned about to give orders to the boats, when his pursuer, advancing una- wares, struck him on the back of the head with a club or stave, and immediately retreated.t Stunned by the Cook wounded. • Burney compares this with a similar exploit performed diirin^^ the cruise of the Nassau Fleet off tiie coa'^t of New Spain in No- vember 1624. A boat's crew, who bar! lundod to procure water, fell into an ambuscade laid by the Spaniards, in which four of them lost their hves, while the rest were forced to embark in great con- fusion. " In the haste made, one man was left beliind on the beach ; but his Ciiptain, Cornelys de Witte, who bad gone himself on this service, returned to the shore in the face of the enemy, and took him into his boat, — 'an act of ^enerositj',' as is justly observed b^ the French translator, ^ worth a wound which he received in his side, and of which he was afterwards cured.'" — Burney, Chron. Hist. Di.scov., vpl. iii. pp. 31, 32, note. Hist of North-Eastern Discov., p. 265. •\' Mr Mariner was informed that this individual was a native carpenter, and that he struck Cook, '' either in the apprehension that he was at that moment ordering his men to increase their fire, or not knowing him to be the extraordinary beiny: (Rono) of whom he had heard so much; for be lived a considerable distance np the country, and was not personally acquainted with him. The natives cof>K*8 Tnmn voyaoe. 40] I l)low, he totteri'd forward a few paces, and then fell on ciiAr. xi. his hand and knee, letting his nnibk(>t drop, while n Thpfiuai great shout hurst i'roni the islanders. As he was rising, l>luw. and hefore he could regain his footing, another savn^e stahbed him in the back of the neck with an iron spike, on which he again fell into a pool among the shelves, scarcely more than knee-deep. Unable to swim, and dizzy from the wounds he had received, he turned to- wards the rocks, and was imnuiliately surrounded by the natives, who crowded about him and endeavoured to keej> him under the water. He struggled violently against them, and succeeded in raising his head, when he turned his eyes towards the pinnace, as if beseecliing that aid which, in the confusion of the scene, it was impossible to afford. Though again forced under water deeper than before, lie was once more able to lift his head above it, and, almost exhausted, had laid hold of a rock for support, when a savage struck him with a club, and he was seen alive no more. They then dragged indipniUfs his body from the water, and were observed to snatch *" *''" ^^'^^' the daggers from each other's hands in order to pierce the corpse ; nor did they desist for some time, though a Are was directed against them from the boats, and several were seen to fall by the side of their victim.* had no idea that Cook could p«)S8ibly be killed, as they considered liim a siinernatmul being', and were astonished when they saw him lull." — loHfja Island?, vol. ii. p. 74. SaniweM'H Narrative, p. IH. • The anxiety manifested by the islanders to manfjle the body of f^«n»e of tlie our great countryman was, at the time, commonly attributed to "a ""*'vcs cou- saviige eagerness to have a share in his destruction." But it has ' "^ been remarked by Dr Martin, that, "in all probability, this eager- ness to seize the dagger was prompted in each by the wish to be possessed of an instrument which had become consecrated, as it were, by the death of so great a man ; at least, this is presumed from what would have been the sentiment had it happened at the Tonga Islands." — Mariner's Tonga Islands, vol. ii. p[). 74. 7.% Tliat tiie seeming barbarity exhibited on this occasion arose from some superstitious notion, such as that mentioned by Dr Martin, is a supposition which derives conlirmation from the belief which the islanders entertained with regard to Cook, from the honours after* wards rendered to his remains, and from the expressions used by (he natives to Mr Ellis,—'' After lie was dead, we all Wailed I"— Foiynesian Researches, vol. iv. p. 132. 402 COOK*S THIRD VOYAOB. CHAP. XL Sorrow and dlunay. Danger of Captain King. Unsnccesflful attempt to recover Cook't body. When they at Inst gave way, a small skiff, manned by five young midshipmen, pulled to the shore, where they saw the bodies of their companions lying on the ground without any signs of life ; but considering it dangerous to land with so small a force, they returned to the vessels, where the tidings of this great calamity spread univei-sal sorrow and dismay. Animated by their success, the natives began to gather round the moral in another part of the harbour, where Captain King with some men had been left in charge of^ the astronomical instruments, the foremast of the Re- solution, and the greater portion of the sails of both vessels ; but after a brief conflict, a truce wos agreed to, and the voyagers were permitted to withdraw, carrying their effects with them, without molestation. The savages, however, seemed to be still bent on hostilities ; an immense concourse was drawn up on the shore, and several went off in their canoes till within pistol-shot of the ships, challenging the people on board with marks of defiance and contempt. In the afternoon, King rowed towards the land, where he had an interview with some of the chiefs ; and, in answer to his inquiries after the body of his late commander, was assured that it had been carried up the country,- but would be restored the next morning. This promise was not fulfilled; but, after nightfall of the 15th, a person who had constantly attended Cook when on shore, came off to the ship and presented to Captain King a small bundle wrapped up in cloth, containing a piece of flesh about ten pounds in weight. This, he aud, was all that remained of the body of the unfortunate navigator ; — that the rest had been cut off and burned ; and that the head and all the bones, except those of the trunk, were in the possession of the king and the chiefs. Before departing, he asked with great anxiety, " When Orono would come again *.'* and " What he would do to them on his return !'*— questions which were frequently repeated by others. The impression of the islanders that the murdered leader w^as their ancient deity was not even yet wholly dia- CUOX*S THIRD TOY AGE. 403 gipated ; and although some, when they saw his blood chap. xi. Htrcaniing and heard his groans, exclaimed, ** This is ni-iienn his not Rono I" others still believed in his divinity, and divinity. cherished the hope that he would once more appear among them. On tt J I7th, a party, who landed to procure water, AmAnit on experienced so much annoyance from the inhabitants, "'« «»ti>«* that it was necessary to bum down a few straggling huts which afforded them shelter. Those to whom this order was intrusted carried it far beyond the proper limits : the whole village was set on fire and consumed, along with the houses of the priests, at whose hands nothing but friendship had been experienced. This act, followed by the death of several of the savages, who were shot in attempting to escape from the flames, con- veyed a suitable terror of the English power ; and, on the evening of the 18th, a chief came with presents from Terreeoboo to sue for peace. On the morning of the 20th, the mast of the Resolu- Manpiod tion was replaced, and the same day the remains of the '^JJJ^.'"* **' lamented commander were delivered up to his successor, wrapped in a large quantity of fine cloth, and covered with a cloak of black and white feathers. " We found in this bundle," says Captain King, **both the hands of Captain Cook entiie, which were well known from a remarkable scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from the fore-finger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone ; the skull, but with the scalp separat- ed from it, and the bones that form the face wanting ; the scalp, with the hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it ; the bones of both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to them, the thigh and leg bones joined together, but without the feet. The liga- ments of the joints were entire ; and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several places and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of preserving them. The scalp had a cut on the back part of it, but the skull was free from I ■■■il 404 ,.» COOK S TlllUD VOYAGE. CHAP. XI. any fracture." ^ The lower jawhone and the f et were CommTtted f^-'stored on the morning of tho 21st ; and in the after- to the deep, noon, these remains having been enclosed in a coffin, the burial-service was read over them, and, with the usual military honours, ihey were committed to the deep. " What our feelings were on this occasion," says Captain King, " I leave the world to conceive ; those who were present know that it is not in my power to express them." Part of the bone?, it may be observed, were retained by the natives ; and several of them, held sacred as those of the god Rono, were de- posited in a temple dedicated to that deity. They were preserved in a basket of wit ker- work, covered with red feathers ; religious homage was paid to them, and they were annually borne in procession through the island by the votaries of Rono, when gathering offerings for the maintenance of their worship. They were thus pre- served and honoured for a period of forty years, until the abolition of idolatry, and the establishment of the Christian faith in 1819. At that date they disappeared, having probably been carried off by some of the priests, and the English missionaries have hitherto failed to dis- cover their destination. -I* By the next day all was ready for s^a, and on the S:iiictity nttaelicd to rcuiuiiis. Worsliip ol tiono. * Voyaj^e to tlie Pacific, vol. iii. p. 80. •f* " All tliose," says Mr F.llis, " of whom inquiry has been made, iiave Hnif'ormly asserted, that they were formerly kept hy the priests of Ro.u), and worship[)ed, but a&vj never jriven any satisfactory information as to where they a'e now. Whenever we have asked the kinj;, or Hevaheva the chief priest, or any of the chiefs, they have either told us they .vere under the care of those who had them- selv'is said they knew nothing about them, ortliat they were now lost." —Polynesian Researches, vol. iv. p. 137. Mariner's Ton^i^a Islands, vol. ii. p 7*>- The last-quoted author was informed " that the nalives of Owhyhee returned very few of the bones of Captain Cook, but chiefly siibstitutcd the iiones of some other Englishman that was killed on that melancholy occasion." But this statement seems to require co-roboration — ** Not only,*' says Mr Ellis, " w _re the bones of Cook worshipped but almost every relic left with them; amon^' other things, a sledge from the north-west coast ot America, whiriv they called Opaitauariii a crab or shrimp for a chief to fst on." — Vol. iv. p. 133. cook's tuird voyage. 405 22J of February our navigators stood out of the bay ; chap. XL while the islanders, collected in great numbers on the shore, received their last farewell with every mark of affection and good-will. After visiting other islands of the Sandwich group, ncmvn to about the middle of March they proceeded once more *''^" ''"»'»• to the northward, and came to anchor in Awatska Bay in Kamtschatka near the end of April. They were motD hospitably treated by the commander of that re- mote province, the celebrated Major Behm, who refused any remuneration for the liberal supplies with which he furnished them. They did not quit this friendly har- bour till the 16th of June, " at least a mrmth later," snys Burney, " than should li?.ve been desired, as, in a pur- suit like ours, it, v.us our business to have been ^arly in the year to the north." They reached Beiiring's Reach Strait on the 6th July, and on the 19th, attained the i^'.;[i"^'' latitude of 70^^ 33'. Beyond this point, which was five leagues short of that which had been attained the pre- vious season, they were not able to penetrate, nor did they succeed in advancing so far along the coast of either continent. On the 27th, all farther attempts were abandoned, and tlie course bent to the southward. " I will not," says Captain King," endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the countenance of every indi- vidual, as soon as this resolution was made known. We were all heartily sick of a navigation full of danger, and in whv)Ii the utmost perseverance had not been repaid with the smallest probability of success. We there- fore turned our faces toward home, after an absence ""'^.t^'"'* of three years, with a delight and satisfaction which, notwithstanding the tedious voyage we had still to make, and the immense distance we had to run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had been already in sight of the Land's Knd." * Three days after, they repassed the strait, and on the 21st of August, came in sight of the mountains of • Voya{»e *o the Piicific, vol. iii. p. 200. 406 cook's third Voyage. Death of Captain Clerke. i'Hi CHAP. XL Kaintschatlca. Captain Clerke had been long and seii- ously indisposed, and all hopes of liis recovery had been for some time relinquished by every one but himselP. He died on the 22d, in the thirty-eighth year of his age, and was interred on the north side of the harbour of St Peter and St Paul, vhere the vessels arrived two days after his demise. Ills body was attended to the grave by the officers and crews of the ships, and by the Russian garrison ; the service was read by the priest of the settlement, amid the firing of minute guns ; and the melancholy ceremony was concluded by the discharge of three volleys from the marines. An escutcheon was placed in the neighbouring church, setting forth his age and rank, and an inscription of the same purport was affixed to the tree under which he W8s buried.* Captain Gore now assumed the command of the i- - pedition, on board the Resolution, while Captain KiHq' removed to the Discovery. The instructions from the Admiralty directed that, if the vessels failed to find a passage into the Atlantic, they should return to Eng- land by such course as seemed most likely to advance geographical knowledge. On this point Captain Gore requested the opinions of his officers, who unanimously thought that the largest field for discovery, the sea between Japan and Asia, could not be safely explored in the present condition of the vessels, and chat it was Course deter- therefore advisable to keep to the eastward, along the mine on. I^ui-jigg^ ^nd examine the islouds lying nearest the northern coast of Japan ; then to survey the shores of that country ; and, lastly, to make the coast of China at as northerly a point as possible, and run along it to Macao. Of this judicious plan only a small part could be carried into effect. The attempt to reach the islands Captains Gore and King. * In 17fi7i tiie unfortunate I.a Perouse placed a brass plate on the tomh of Ciiptain Clerke; and more lately the Russian admiral, Krusenstern, erei-terl a monument to his mcniorj- ; which, before Captain Beecitey's visit in 1827, had, for better preservation, l>een removed to the ffoveruor's i^arden. — Voyage to the Pacific, vol. ii. p. 245. COOK S TIIIllD VOYAUE. 407 a. north of Japan proved fruitless ; and the ships, driven chap XI. from those latitudes by contrary winds, anchored at ^^n^^^j Macao early in December. Macaa The discoverers here received information of the public events which had occurred in Europe since the commencement of th'^ir voyage ; aad, in consequence of tlie war which had arisen between Great Britain and France, they prepared their vessels for meeting theQgj,p„,y, enemy. Fortunately their precautions were rendered conduct unnecessary by the generous conduct of their adversaries. ** ""'^®' In March 1779, the court of Versailles issued orders to the captains of their ships, stating the objects of the ex- pedition, and the advantages which would result from it to all nations, and directing that Cook should be treated as the commander of a neutral or allied power. This measure, so honourable to the French character, was, we are informed by the Marquis de Condorcet, adopted on the advice of the enlightened Turgot. Benjamin Frank- lin, then in Paris as the plenipotentiary of the United Different States, addressed to the officers of the American navy an su^d by ^^^' earnest r.3Commendation to spare the ships of " that I "'cica ««nd most celebrated discoverer Captain Cook ;" but the noble feelings which dictated this letter found no re- sponse in Congress, who instantly issued orders thut especial care should be taken to seize our voyagers. The same mean policy was pursued oy the government of Spain. While lying at Macao, the sailors engaged m an active TrntTe with trade with the Chinese for the furs of the sea-otter, which the}' had procured, without any view to sale, at Cook's River on the North American coast. " One of our seamen," says King, " sold his stock for 800 dollars ; and a few prime skins, which were clean and had been well preserved, were sold for 120 each. The M'hole amount of the value, in specie and goods, that was got for the furs in both ships, I am confident, did not fall short of £2000 sterling ; and it was generally supposed, that at least two-thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the Americans were spoiled and worn out, or the Chinciie. ! t, 408 COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. InfUciitions of succcsstul tritding. Thvcnt of nmuiiy. R I CHAP. XI liad been given away and otliervvise disposed of in Kamtschatkft. When, in addition to these facts, it is (remembered that the furs were at first collected without our having any idea of their real value ; that the great- est part had. been worn by the savages, from whom we purchased them ; that they were afterwards preserved with little care, and frequently used for bed-clothes and other purposes, during our cruise to the north ; and that probably we had never got the full value for them in China i the advantages that might be derived from a vo3'age to that part of the American coast, undertaken with commercial views, appear to me of a degree of infiT'tance sufficient to call for the attention of the pul .' The seamen were astonished at the high prices ich they received for an article they had so easily procured ; and their eagerness to return to Cook's Inlet, and by another cargo make their fortunes, led them to the brink of mutiny. The profits of the barter produced a whimsical alteration in the appearance of the crews, who, on their entry into the river, were clad in a motley mixture of rags, skins, and the rude cloth of the savage countries they had visited — ga'^ments which they soon exchanged for the gaudiest silks and cottons of China. urn!io:ne. The ships took their departure from Macao on the 1 3th January 1780, and touched at the Cape of Good Hope on the 13th of April. They made the western coast of Ireland on the 12th August, anchored on the 22d at Stromness in Orkney, and arrived at the Nore on the 4th of October, after an absence of four years, two months, and twenty- two days. During this long period the Resolution lost only five men by sickness, while no death had taken place in the Disco very .+ Another cir- * Voj'ape to the Pacific, vol. ill. p. 435. •f" The bark which bore MajreKan in his eventful voyage became a favourite theme with the p«)et.s and romancers of Spain; and the stiip in which Drake sailed round the gh>be received equal honours.* * One of the uses to which " the ship of fnmous Draco " was applied, is p inted out in the old play of " Eastward Hoe," (by Chapman, Ben .Ton- am, and Marstun), where 8ir Fetronel Flash is introduced, saying, cook's thibd voyaob. 409 cumstance) attended this voyage, which, if \C8 consider its CHAP. XL duration, and the nature of the service on which they uninterrnpt. were engaged, will appear scarcely less singular, namely, «* co-opera- that the two ships never lost sight of each other fur a ibipB. whole day together except twice. The destiny of the vessel of a greater circumBav^tor than either may be seen from the following notice : — ** Cook's old ship, the Dis- covery, was, some time since, removed from Woolwich, and is now moored oiF Deptford as a receiving ship for convicts ."—hondoa NewHpnpers, Au^ist 20, 1834. "We'll have our provided supper brought aboard Sir Francis DralMs ship, that hath compassed tiie world, where, with full cups and banquets, we will do sacrifice for a prosperous voyage My mind gives me that lom* good spirit of the watci^ should haunt the desart ribs of her, and be aus- |):cious to all that honour her memory, and will with like orgies ent«r their voyages."— Act iii> trame tdthe purs.* lied, is .Jon- lying, 410 0B8ERY AXIOMS ON TUB CHAPTER XII. CHAP. XII. Sorrow at the death of Cook. Pension and honours to bis family. Monuments to his memory. Observations on the Character of Cook, Honours paid to him — PerAonal Appearance — Temper and Habita — His Children and Widow — Energy and Perseverance — Self- education — His vast Contributions to Geography — Skill in deli- neating and fixing his Discoveries — ^Discovery of the Means of preserving the Health of Seamen — Advantages derived from his Voyages— Progress of Civilisation in Polynesia — Conclusion. The tidings of the melancholy fate of Cook excited a deep and general sorrow throughout Europe, and distin- guished honours vrere rendered to his name alike hy foreigners and by his countrymen. The Royal Society caused a medal to be struck, containing on one side the head of tlieir late associate, \nth the inscription Jac. Cook, Oceani Investigator Acerrimus ; on the other, the figure of Britannia holding a globe, with the words NUi Inx ENTATUM NosTRi LiQUERE ; and on the eyrgue, Reo. Soo. Lond. Socio suo, and Auspiciis Georoii III. His majesty conferred on the widow of Cook a pension of two hundred pounds a-year, and on each of his sons an annual sum of twenty-five pounds. Honourable armorial bearings, symbolical of his achievements, were assigned to his family. Sir Hugh Palliser, on his estate in Buckinghamshire, erected a monument to the memory of his old and dear friend ; in 1812, the parishioners of Marton placed a marble tablet to his memory in the church where he was baptized ; a handsome obelisk, fifty- one feet in height, was built on the hill of Easby, near Rosberry Topping, in 1827 ; and the officers of the Blonde raised on the place where the body of the distinguished voyager « CHARACTER OF COOK. 411 ^hire, dear ped a Ire he jt in jerry hiised rager was burned a cross of oak, ten feet in height, with thid CHAP. xir. inscription,-— — Sacred Monument at to the memory of Owbytiee. Capt. James Cook, R.N. who discovered these Islands in the year of our Lord 1778. This humble monument is erected by iiis countrvmen in the year of our Lord 1825. Few visiters leave Owhyhee without making a pilgrim- age to the spot where its discoverer met his untimely end, and many cany away pieces of the dark lava-rock on which he stood when he received his death-wound. The place is marked by the ruins of a morai, and by some stunted cocoa-trees, in which the natives show perforations, produced by the balls fired on the fatal morning of the 14th February 1779. In person, Cook was of a robust frame, and upwards of six feet in height. His head was small, and his face Personal animated and expressive, though his prominent eye- *^c^j^"*^* brows imparted to it an appearance of austerity. His eyes, of a brown colour, though not large, were quick and piercing: his hair, which was of a dark-brown hue, he wore tied behind, after the fashion of the day. His constitution was strong, and capable of sustaining great labour ; he was exceedingly temperate, and his stomach bore without difficulty the coarsest viands. In his address he was unaffected and retiring, even to bash- fulness : his conversation was modest, lively, and agree- able ; although at times he appeared thoughtful, wrapped up in his own pursuits, and apparently under a pressure of mental fatigue when called on to speak upon any other. Like Columbus, he seems to have been some- what passionate ; yet of him, as of the discoverer of America, it may be said, that the quickness o Iiis tem- per was counteracted by the benevolence and generosity of his heart. The calumny that his disposition wajs harsh, gloomy, and morose, has been already disproved. He was beloved by his people,'* says Mr Sam well, Address and munuei'. M 412 OB8ERTATION8 ON TBB Attachment ot hl« crew. Portmlte of Cook. CRAP. XII ** 'v^ho looked up to him as to a father, and obeyed hit commands with alacrity : the confidence we. placed in nim was unremitting ; our admiration of his great talents unbounded ; our esteem for his good qualities affection- ate and sincere." Two representations of his features hare been pre- served ; one by Hodges, the artist who accompanied him in hb second voyage ; another, which was executed by Dance, is now in Greenwich Hospital, and an engraving front this fine portrait is prefixed to the pre* sent Work. It was at the pressing request of Sir Joseph Banks that Cook sat for this picture, on the eve of his departure to explore the southern hemisphere, when all his thoughts were devoted to his arduous undertaking ; and his active mind impatiently regretted every hour that he was absent from his duties. These circumstances may account for the deep thoughtfulness and the stern expression visible in this delineation of his countenance ; for, while the painter was busy with his features, doubtless his mind was ** occupied in great waters." * Few of his days were passed in the quiet scenes of private life ; but though his fortunes called him too often from the society of his family, not many men present a more amiable character as a husband and a father. His hours were divided between the instruction and amusement of his children, and the study of his favourite sciences, — ^navigation, astronomy, and mathe- matics. He was fond of drawing; but did not take much delight in music or poetry, or in any of the pur- suits of rural life. Captain Cook had six children, of whom three died in infancy. Nathaniel, when sixteen years old, was lost in 1780 with Commodore Walsingham, in the Thunderer; Hugh, who was educated at Cambridge * Memoir of Cook in Gallery of Greenwich Hospital. " His widow," says Mr Locker, *' has more than once expressed her re- gret that a portrait, in all other respects so perfect, should convey this erroneous expression to the eye of a stranger." Domestic character. Family. CHARACTER OF COOK. 413 an for the dmrch, died in 1793, in his seventeenth year. James, who, at the age of thirty-one, was drowned in 1794, the only S(m who attained to manhood, displayed much of his father's intrepidity. When pushing off from Poole to join the Spitfire sloop of war, of which he was the commander, he was advised to wait till the storm which was raging should abate : — ** It is blowing hard,'* he replied, ** but my boat is well manned, and has weathered a stronger gale ; we shall make the ship very well, and I am anxious to be on board." He perished in the attempt, along with the whole of his crew. The widow of the great voyager survived him for more than half a century. To the last she cherished the most devoted affection for his memory ; and even after the lapse of so many years, could not speak of his fate without emotion. Such was her sensibility, that on receiving tidings of the death of her son James, in the vain hope of banishing from her mind the recollec- tion of her losses, she committed to the flames almost all the letters she had received from his father. F*": a long period she resided at Clapham, where her unpftected goodness and generosity secured universal !ove and respect. Her latter years passed away in intercourse with her friends, and in the discharge of those offices of charity and kindness in which her benevolent mind de- lighted. The afflicting loss of her husband and children, though borne with submissive resignation, was never effaced from her memory ; and we are informed tliat there were certain melancholy anniversaries which, to the end of her days, she devoted to seclusion and pious observance. She died on the Idth May 1835, in the ninety-fourth year of her age. Her body was deposited in a vault in the church of St Andrew the Great, at Cambridge, where her sons James and Hugh were interred. To the parish in which she was buried she assigned £1000, under the conditions, that, from the interest of that sum, the monument she had erected to the memory of her family shall be kept in peifect CHAP. XII. Death of hla ]ut Borviv- tng aon. His widow. Residence at Clapham. Interment nt Cambridge. CHAP. XIL Beqnests to the parish of St Andrew the Great. Legaclea. ^rental characteris- tics of Cook. Pnrcnti of Cook. 414 ODSERVATIONS ON THB repair ; that tho parochial clergyman shall receive a small annual remuneration for his attention to the due discharge of the trust ; and that the remainder shall ht: equally divided yearly, on St Thomas' Day, among five poor and aged women residing in the parish, but deriving no relief therefrom. Besides many legacies to her rela- tives and servants, she left to the poor of Clapham £760, and to the Schools for the Indigent Blind and the Royal Maternity Charity about £1000. The Copley Medal awarded to her husband, and one of the gold medals struck in his honour by the Royal Society she be- queathed to the British Museum.* The great characteristics of Cook's mind were energy and perseverance. By the aid of these properties, and stimulated by an honourable ambition, he was able, amid the bustle and toil of active service, not only to acquire a knowledge of his profession rarely equalled, but to supply the deficiencies of a very imperfect edu- cation, and raise himself to an eminent station among men of literature and science. After he had reached his thirty-first year, with no assistance from teachers, he mastered, in the few leisure hours which his situa- tion afforded, the study of mathematics and astronomy. * Gentleman*8 Map^zinc, July 1835. — Nautical Magazine, .July lR3o and February 1836. Cook's mother died in 176d, a^red (i3 ; <* the tombstone wliich records her death, and that of two sons and three daughters, most of whom died in infancy, is understood to have been carved by her husband, wiio about ten 'years after re- moved from Ayton to Rcdcar to spend ihe evening of his days with his daughter Margaret, the wife of Mr .lames Fleck, a respectable fisherman and shopkeeper. . . . The father of Cook outlived his son only a few weeks; and never heard of his untimely end. He was interred at Marske, April 1, 1779> in the eighty -fifth year of his age. His son-in-law died a few years ago. The captain's i^'ster had three sons, all master mariners, and four daughters; her descendants are numerous. One only of Cook^s nephews is living ; but three of his nieces yet survive.' —Life and Voyages of Cook, by the Rev. George Young (Lond. 183H), pp. 16, 450. From the same source we learn that the elder Cook is said to have been Imrn at Ednam on the Tweed. About the time that his son entered the navy he became a mason, and a house which he built for his owp residence at Ayton is still in existence. Here he was visited by his son in the brief interval between his second and third voyages. -c.. CIIARACTBR OP COOK. 415 Unoer similar circumstances, ho attained great profi- ciency in drawing. Tlie literary talent and information displayed in the narratives of his second and third cir- cumnavigations will ever excite astonishment in those who reflect on the few opportunites for the cultivation of letters which their author enjoyed. His mental ac- tivity was conspicuous throughout all his voyages. " No incidental temptation," says Captain King, ** could detain him for a moment ; even those intervals of re- creation which sometimes unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that persons who have experienced the fatigues of service will readily excuse, were submitted to by him with impatience.'* The immovable constancy with which he pursued his objects was equally remarkable ; and there are perhaps few instances of perseverance on record more worthy of note than his survey of the coast of New Holland, car- ried on by him amid continual dangers ; or his search for a Southern Continent, in which he persisted in spite of every privation, concealing from all a dangerous ill- ness that brought him to the brink of the grave. His courage and resolution were invincible, yet unaccom- panied with temerity ; hia self-possession never failed ; and we are told, that " in the most perilous situations, when he had given the proper directions concerning what was to be done while he went to rest, he could sleep during the hours he had allotted to himself with perfect composure and soundness." His mind was equally ready and copious in resources ; and his designs were marked by a boldness and originality which evinced a consciousness of great powers. These charncteristics were demonstrated in the very outset of his first expe- dition, when, differing from the opinions of every one, he selected his vessel upon principles which the result most amply vindicated. It may be justly said, that no other navigator extended the bounds of geographical knowledge so widely as he did. The great question of a Southern Continent, which had been agitated for more than two centuries, CHAP. XII. Literary iie- qulrotueoU Kcmarkflbla contitancy. Ready resources. Uneqnnllcd as a navi- gator. 416 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHAP. XII. Extent of his dlflOOTeriei. Exploration within the Antarctic circle. Obsenratlons on the north- west coast of America. he completely set at rest. He first made known the eastern coast of New He land, more than 2000 miles in extent, and presenting; perils of the most formidahlt^ nature. He ascertained the northern limit of Australia, and restored to Europeans the knowledge of the long- lost Strait of Torres. He diseipated the belief that New Zealand was a part of the Terra Australis Incognita, brought to light its eastern boundary previously un- known, and circumnavigated its shores. He completed the labours of Quiros and later voyagers in the archi- pelago of the New Hebrides, and first delineated an ac- curate chart of their coasts. Ho discovered New Cale- donia, with one exception the largest island in the Austral Ocean. He investigated the depths of the Southern Atlantic, made us acquainted with Sandwich Land, fixed the position of Kerguelen's Island, visited the almost-forgotten Isla Grande of La Roche, and sur- veyed the southern shores of Tierra del Fuego with a fidelity at that time unprecedented. During this navi- gation, he twice crossed the antarctic circle, and attain' a higher latitude than had been reached by any fon voyager. He explored the Tonga Archipelago and tnat of Las Marquesas, neither of which had been visited since the days of Tasman and Mendana, and added greatly to our knowledge of their situation and pro- ductions, their inhabitants, manners, and customs. Easter, or Edward Davis' Island, which had been sought in vain by Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Bougainville, did not elude his researches. He greatly increased our acquaintance with the Low or Coral Archipelago, and completed the discovery of the Society Islands. In other parts of the South Sea, he brought to light the islands of Norfolk, Botany, Pines, Palmerston, Savage, Hervey, Mangeea, Wateeoo, Otakootaia, Turtle, Toubouai, and Christmas. Along: tl*** north-west coast of America, he effected more in one season than the Spaniards had ac- complished in two centuries. Besides rectifying many mistakes of former explorers, he ascertained the breadth of the strait ^hich separates Asia from the New World — CHARACTER OF COOK. 417 a point which Behring had left unsettled. Passing thr chap. XIL arctic, as he had crossed the antarctic circle, lie pene- »,ctiT" trated farther than any preceding navigator; and as exploration. more than half a century expired without a nearer ap- proach being made to the Southern Pole than he had achieved, a like period elapsed before our knowledge of the American coast was extended beyond the point to which he attained. Among the latest and greatest of his discoveries were the Sandwich Islands, — which, in sandwich the sentence wherewith his journal abruptly terminates, ^^'^^'^ he truly characterizes as " though the last, in many respects the most important that has hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean.*' * But it would be injustice to him if we were to esti- inflnence on mate his merits only by the extent, number, or import- JSencel''"*** nnce of the countries which he added to the map of the world. It has been remarked by a distinguished cir- cumnavigator of a neighbouring nation, that his labours created a new era in geographical science.t Unlike his precursors, he was not content with being able to an- nounce the existence of new lands, but delineated the bearing and figure of their coasts, and fixed their position with an exactness which can hardly be surpassed even by means of the improved instruments of our own days. While great errors have been detected in the longitudes Errors of his of Byron and his successors, and still greater in those of the earlier voyagers, every succeeding navigator has borne testimony to the accuracy of Cook's determina- tionii. So late as 1815, his chart of the southern coast of Tierra del Fuego was characterized by Admiral Bumey as the best guide wliivii the seaman possessed to that region. Of a more juvenile performance, his map of the shores of Newfoundland, the late surveyor of the island, Captain Bullock, speaks in terms of warm commendation. Rraise equally high has been awarded to his representation of * Voja^ to the Pacific, toL iL p. 548. f M. D'Urville, Voyage autour du Monde, tome L p. zii. 418 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHAP. XII. Accnrocy of his charts. Testimony of Mr. EUifl^ Discoveries relative to tlie health 01 crews. IB! the coasts of New Zealand, by M. Crozet, the companion of the unfortunate Marion. " As soon,", says he, " as I had got hold of the voyage of the English, I compared with care the chart which I had drawn w^ith that taken by Captain Cook and his officers. I found it to possess an exactness and minuteness which astonished me beyond all expression. I doubt whether our own coasts of France have been delineated with more precision." La Perouse never mentions the name of the great seaman without expressing warm admiration of his accuracy ; and M. D'UrvillR assigns him the title of " fondateur de la veritable geographic dans I'Ocean-Pacifique : ceux," he adds, " qui sont venus apres lui sur les memes lieux n*ont pu pretendre qu*au merite d'avoir plus ou moina perfectionne' ses travaux." * Testimony of no less weight has been borne to the correctness of hio delineations of people, manners, and countries. " A resider.ce of eight years in the Society and Sandwich Islands," says Mr Ellis, " has afforded me an opportunity of becoming familiar with many of the scenes and usages described in his /oyages, and I have often been struck with the fidelity with whicli they are uniformly portrayed. In the inferences he draws, and the reasons he assigns, he is sometimes mistaken ; but in the description of what he saw and heard, there is throughout a degree of ac- curacy, seldom if ever exceeded in accounts equally minute and extended." f Great as are the contributions which Cook made to geographical science, they are perhaps surpassed in utility and importance by his discovery of the art of preserving the health of seamen in long expeditions. The reader * Voyage aiitour du Monde, tome i. p. xiii. ■f Polynesian Kescarches, vol. iv. p. 3. See also Mariner's Ton^'a Islands vol. i. p. xv. A later voyaffpr. Captain Waldejifrave, who visited the Frienoly Archipelago in lb30, writes, "In our tour through these islands we had great reason to admire the general accuracy of Captain Cook ; his description of the houses, fences, manners of the Hapai Islands, is correct to the present day." — J«iurn. of the Roy. Geog. Soc., vol. iii. p. 186. CHARACTER OF COOK. 419 who has perused the details which have been given of chap, xil the sufferings of Anson's expedition, will not be at a suffering* on loss to appreciate what praise is due to him who re- fonnerexp©- moved the scurvy from the list of diseases incident to a *^ * nautical life, and first showed that a voyage of three yeai*s' duration might be performed with the loss of but one man by sickness. To use the words with which he concludes the narrative of his second circumnavigation, — " Whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the pos- sibility of preserving health amongst a numerous ship's company for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fa- tigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent shall have ceased to engage the at- tention and to divide the judgment of philosophers."* Indeed, had he made no other discovery but this, he would have been justly entitled to the praise and grati- tude of mankind. There still remains one important view in which his New fields of voyages must be regarded, namely, as having added to euterprisa the power and riches of his country, by laying open new fields of commercial enterprise, disclosing sources of wealth previously unknown, and extending the limits of her territorial possessions. The shores of New South Wales, which he was the first to explore, have become the seat of a vast and flourishing colony, whose wealth and resources are daily increasing. The ports of New Zealand are frequented by British shipping ; settlements of our countrymen have been formed on its bays ; and its vegetable treasures — its trees and flax — have been rendered available to the wants of our navy. His dis- coveries on the northern coast of America gave rise to a J ♦ Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii. p. 293. 420 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHAP. XIL valuable and extensive trade in furs. The Sandwich Trade result- Is^*'*^*' h*^*^ become so great a mart of traffic, that it Ing from his has been found necessary to establish an English con- discoveries, gyiate at their capital. The Southeni Pacific is every where the resort of whaling- vessels, engaged in a lucra- tive fishery, and deriving their supplies of sea-stores from those fertile islands, the various ports and harbours of which he was the first to make known.* Even the barren rocks of New South Georgia, which he visited in his second voyage, have been far from unprof.table ; it South Sea ^^ believed that, besides the skins of the fur-seal, they lisheiy. have yielded no less than 20,000 tons of the sea-elephant oil for the London market. Kerguelen's, or Desolation Island, has proved a scarcely less fruitful source of ad- vantage ; and it is calculated " that, during the time these two islands have been resorted to for the purpose of trade, more than 2000 tons of shipping, and from two to three hundred seamen, have been employed annually in this traffic." t Advantage to While SO many advantages have accrued to the civil- Uie natives. J2e(j world from the voyages of the illustrious navigator whose history has just been narrated, the countries and nations which he made known have likewise reaped a rich harvest of benefit ; and it is consolatory to reflect, that the fears which troubled his benevolent mind lest the islanders of the Austral Ocean might have "just cause to lament that our ships had ever found them out," have not been realized. The labours of the good and pious men who sailed in the ship Duff to spread the glad tidings of salvation among " the isles of the sea," though long unsuccessful, have at length been crowned with a prosperous issue. Throughout the principal groups of the Pacific idolatry has been overthrown, and * " Le nombre des navires Anglais et Am^ricains, nrincipale- ment de baleiniers, qui abordent ^ Tahiti, est de 200 a 250, terme moyen en six mois. On dit que la population blanche y est de 200 a 3(H) personnes, et augmente chanue jour." — Singapore Chronicle, quotedin Nouvelles Annates des Voyajjes (1B33), tome xxx. p. 111. f Weddel's Voyage towards the South Pole, pp 63, 54. CHARACTER OF COOK. 42] 7t along with it tlie darker crimes and more Iratal vices of raAP. XIL the natives. Those desolating wars, in whieh mercy Desolating was altogether unknown, and neither sex nor age was a native wan protection from the exterminating fury of the victors, have ceased. The barbarous sacrifices of human beings, and the still more sanguinary usage of infanticide, which prevailed to an extent almost incredible, have been abolished. Peace, order, and tranquillity are estab- lished ; not a few of the customs and comforts of Europe introduced ; schools and churches erected ; and a know ledge of letters extensively diffused. A printing-press *^J}.^..^ has been established in the Society Islands, from which a translation of the New Testament into the native language, a number of initiatory treatises, and a code of laws ratified by the nation, have already issued. Many of the inhabitants have made so great progress in learn- ing, that they have been able to take on themselves the character of missionaries, and go forth to preach the Gospel to their benighted brethren in less favoured places. Others have acquired the arts of the smitb, the mason, the weaver, the cotton-spinner, the turner, the ftgi'iculturist, or the carpenter. In the trade last men- tioned they have made such proficiency as to build, after the English style, vessels of seventy tons burden, for commercial enterprises to «' rent parts of Polynesia. The people of the Sanci Archipela^^o have ad- vanced still farther in civilisation. The Bay of Hon- ororu, in the island of Woahoo, almost resembles a European harbour. Fifty foreign vessels nave been .^een in it at one time. In the latter part of the year 1833, it was resorted to by more than 26,000 tons of shipping, employing upwards of 2000 seamen, and bej'ing the flags of England, Prust^iU, Spain, America, and Otaheite.* It is defended by a fortress mounting forty guns, over which, and from the masts of the native barks, is sus- pended the national ensign,+ which has alreai^ ueen * Canton Register, ftth May 1834, quoted in the Asiatic Journal (March 183ft S vol. xvi. p. 191. f " Le pavilion Satidwiciiien, se compoaoit d'un jacht Angkis, Pay of lioiiuioru. 422 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHAP. XI Town of Uonororu. Missions established. Seeds of civiiizaUon ti()wn. seen in the ports of China, the Philippines, America, Kamtschatka, the New Hebrides, and Australia. The town is regularly laid out in squares, the streets are care- fully fenced, and numbers of the houses are neatly built of wood. It possesses a regular police, contains two hotels, the same number of billiard-rooms, and nearly a dozen taverns, bearing such inscriptions as " An Ordi- nary at One o'Clock," "The Britannia," and "The Jolly Tar." It is the residence of a British and of an American consul, and of several respectable merchants of the United States.* Education and a knowledge of religion are widely spread throughout the islands ; nine hundred seminaries, conducted by native teachers, are established, and fifty thousand children receive instruc- tion in reading.t Within a little distance of the very spot where Ck)ok was killed, a school has been opened, and a building erected for the worship of the true God. The fortune of some others of the countries explored by him has hitherto been less auspicious ; but in most of them missions are already planted with every pro- spect of success, and we may confidently look forward to the day when teachers of Christianity shall be estab- lished in all. It may be said, indeed, that in almost every quarter of Polynesia the seeds of civilisation are now sown, and it is a plant (as has been remarked) which seldom withers or decays, however slowly it may advance in growth. The hopes, therefore, can hardly be considered visionary which have been expressed by a late distin- guished voyager, who, in sailing along the shores of sur un fond raye lionzontalinipnt de neiif bandes alternatives, blanclies, roiifjes et bleiies : 1p blanc etoit place le plus baiit et le 3'aclit a I'an^le sitpeiienr, pres la lalingue." — Freycinet, Voyage autour du Alonde, tome ii. p. 621. * '* Dans cette ville naisaante, fondee dans un pays dont les ha- bitans, il y a dix ans, etaient tout-a-tait sauvages, on trouve deja prescjue toutes les commoditesdes villes d'Europe,"— Observations sur les Hahitans des lies Sandwich, par M. r. E. Botta. — No velles Annales des Voyajjes, tome xxii. p. 135. t Quarterly Journal ot Education, vol. iii. p. 376. CHARACTER OP COOK. 423 New Zealand, anticipated the period when that magni- CHAP. Xli. ficent country shall become the Greait Britain of the Prospects of Southeni Hemisphere, when its now solitary plains NewZeuiauA shall be covered with large and populous cities, and the bays which are at present frequented but by the frail canoe of the wandering savage, shall be thronged with the commercial navies of empires situated at the opposite ends of the earth.* When that day shall arrive, and the fertile islands of the Pacific become the seat of great and flourishing states, we may confidently predict, that Cook will be revered, not with the blind adoration Reverence offered to the fancied Rono, but with the rational re- ^^^ ^'»° spect and affection due by an enlightened people to him cook. who was the harbinger of their civilisation ; and that among the great and good men, commemorated in their annals as national benefactors, none will be more highly extolled than the illustrious navigator who, surmount- ing the dangers and difficulties of unknown seas, laid open the path by which the benefits of knowledge and the blessings of religion were wafted to their distant shores. * D'Urville, Voyage autour du Monde, :ome ii. pp. 114, 115. of MM**Miiwan««aHaMaaaM m CATALOGTJE OF litUSTRATEB loOiCS FOR THE FAMILY LIBRARY, BOOKS FOR PRESENTS. 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