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SKETCH OF THE LIFE

JAN AUGUST MIERTSCHING,

INTERPRETER OF THE ESQUIMAUX LANGUAGE

THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION

ON BOARD H.M.S. "INVESTIGATOR," CAPTAIN M'CLURE,

1850, 1851, 1862, 1863.

ILLUSTRAT^n WITH A PORTRAIT.

DANIEL BENHAM.

LONDON:
WILLIAM MALLALIEU AND CO.

MORAVIAN MISSION HOUSE, 97 HATTON GARDEN.
1854.

As a thankful tribute to commemorate the g-oodness, and wonderful direction,
and providence of God, in conducting- and preserving", amidst countless hardships,
privations, and dangers. Captain M^Clure and his associates, throug'hout their
voyage in search of the lamented Sir John Franklin and his companions, during*
the years 1850, 1851, 1852, and 1853 ; by which voyag-e, prosecuted by British
Officers ard British Sailors, under the benig-nant auspices of Her most
Gracious Majesty QUEEN VICTORIA, the problem of an arctic oceanic con-
nection between the Great Pacific and the Atlantic was affirmatively solved, —
this Portrait, of Jan Aug-ust Miertsching", Interpreter to the Expedition, and
the sketch that accompanies it, are dedicated to the service of the Mission of the
United Brethren on the Coast of Labrador.

The Portrait is engraved from a photograph by Philip Henry De la Motte,
F.S.A., 1C8, New Bond Street, and a daguerreotype by Fehi'enbach, of the Strand.

The sources of information from which the sketch is drawn, are : —

1. Facts and incidents communicated by Br. Miertsching himself.

•2. Periodical Accounts relating to the Missions of the Church of the United
Brethren.

3. Papers presented to Parhament in 1854, by command of Her Majesty, relative
to the recent Arctic Expedition in search of Sir John Franklin and the crews
of H.M. ships "Erebus" and "Terror," &c. &c.

SKETCH OF THE LIFE

JAN AUGUST MIERTSCHING.

Jan August Miertsching, whose portrait is prefixe(' to this sketch, was
born on the 2 1st day of Aag-ust i817, at Groeditz, a village in Upper Lusatia, about
two miles from Budissiu (Bautzen).

His parents were Jan Miertsching", a Servian Vend, and Erdmuth, daughter of
Frederick Naacke, a German. His father died when he was two j-^ears old, and his
mother married a second husband, Joseph Baresch, a Bohemian, from Semtesch
near Czaslaw, in the district of Chrudim. Humble in circumstances, his step-father,
following" the trade of a shoemaker, had very little means of providing him
with schooling ; but he taught him the Bohemian language, and at the age of
fifteen sent him to Kleinwelke, a settlement of the United Brethren in the neigh-
bourhood of Bautzen, ciginally established for the religious and moral instruction
of those Vends, who, though living in the midst of their German oppressors,
are a distin t nation, with a language of their own, which is a dialect of the
Sclavonic, and of which they are very tenacious.

At this settlement, and while following the trade of his step-father, the Lord
touched the heart of Miertsching, and he became united in church-fellowship with
the Brethren. Possessing an ardent desire to acquire knowledge, both human and
divine, the leisure which he here enjoyed wss eagerly embraced, and he soon
attained considerable proficiency.

He continued at Kleinwelke about twelve years, during the whole of which period
he devoted himself to the service of the Lord, and spent a year's probation, in J 835-6,
at Herrnhut the principal settlement ojfthe Brethren. When called to the service of
the mission at Labrador he joyfully obeyed the call. It was enough for Miertsching*
to recognize the voice of Him who inspired his will, and he made His call his choice.
On the 3rd of June, in the year 1844, he, and two other single brethren, arrived
in London, on their way to that ice-bound and inhospitable coast ; where for more

fci

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than a century the Brethren have mamtained mission settlements for the benefit of
the benig-hted Esquimaux, and to lig-ht —

" Beneath the shadow of the polo,

Tho tenfold darkness of the huninn soul.
To man — a task more hopeless than to bless
With Indian fruits that Arctic wilderness ;
With God — as possible when xinbegun
As though the destin'd miraelo were done."

They sailed in the brig; " Harmony" from the river Thames on the 11th of
June, and had a favourable voyag-e across the Atlantic, but the vessel was becalmed
oft" the coast, and in imminent dang-er of being- driven by a viole nt swell from the
eastward upon the frightful precipices of the promontory of Kig-lapeit (Cape
Mug'ford). By the mercy of the Lord the vessel and all on board were delivered
from this peril, and the breeze which He caused to spring* up from the shore, g-ently
bore them in safety to Okak, where they landed on the 10th day of August.
Here Br. Miertsching" took up his abode ; and, led by the hands of his Brethren
who had preceded him in the heavenly mission, he was favoured during" the winter
months to assist in the day-school, which he found to be a useful employment, and
the means of advancing- his own knowledge of the Esquimaux lang-uage. The
fondness of the natives of these regions for music is well known, and Miertsching
was encourag-ed in his work among- his thirty-eig-ht little ones, of whom the choir
consisted of ten singers and eight players, by evidences of advancement in the right
direction. In 1845, he united with his fellow-labourers in reporting* on the generally
favourable progress of the Esquimaux undei the teaching of the Holy Ghost ; — a
source of unspeakable comfort to their own hearts. The schools were a great
pleasure to him ; they were attended then by about one hundred and thirty
children, were always opened by praise and prayer, and fifteen of the scholars had
learned to write with great proficiency.

The year 1846 was a season of famine in this always sterile land, but towards
its close both land and sea so yielded their increase, that a feeling* of heart-
felt thankfulness was excited. The dreaded absence of this timely supply would have
been deplorable indeed. In the month of April Br. Miertsching was appointed
to accor iy Br. Hertzberg, a fellow missionary, on a visit to one of the brethren
at Hebron^ who had been seized with serious illness. This he did on a sledge drawn
by twenty dogs. As by such excursions, and by uniting with the Esquimaux in their
adventurous occupations, Br. Miertsching no doubt was preparing- for a far more
dangerous enterprise in a much higher latitude of the regions of ice, it may not
be uninteresting to give a narrative of this journey in his own words : —

" In March last we received intelligence from Hebron that Br. Glitsch was

^mrnmmmmmmm

seriously ill, nnd wished for the medical aid of Br. Hertzberg. As Br. H. could
not be permitted to travel alone, on account of his own delicate state of health, I
was appointed to accompany him. On the 3rd of April, we set out on a sledge
drawn by twenty dogs,* the driver of which undertook to convey us in one day to
the end of our journey. He had provisions given him for his dogs, which, however,
we afterwards learnt, their master had found it convenient to devour himself, leaving
the poor animals without any food. We ourselves were provided with only one
day's stock of eatables, and even this small quantity was nearly spoiled by the frost.
We started at five o'clock in the morning, and by noon had performed the half of
our journey. We now halted, lighted a fire, and warmed our coffee, which had
already become a lump of brown ice. Thus far we had proceeded upon the ice,
close to the shore, but we were now compelled by its extreme ruggedness to pursue
our way overland, and that by a route altogether unknown ; the worst dogs of our
team were unspanned, and left to their fate ; having eaten nothing for two days,
they were quite unable to proceed. Our driver ran before us to discover a track over the
steep, often precipitous hills, and. the many cavil, as on the earth's surface ; leaving me
to drive and to keep up with him as well as I could : the heavy whip with its lash,
eighteen feet in length, was put into my hand, but, for some time, I struck myself
instead of the dogs as often as I attempted to use it. Practice, however, at length
made perfect, and I became as dexterous as any Esquimaux. Poor Br. Hertzberg
sat meanwhile upon the sledge, well clothed in fur from head to foot, and still further
defended from the cold by a leathern case. Yet the cold was so intense, (45 degrees
of Fahrenheit below the freezing point), that his moans never ceased till w^e reached
Hebron, I was, indeed, often very uneasy about him j and doubted whether he

* An Esquimaux sledge is druwn by a species of dog not unlike a wolf in sbape. Like the wolf,
these dogs never bark, but howl disagreeably. They are kept in greater or smaller packs or teams
proportionate to the means of the master. They quietly submit to be harnessed for their work, and are
treated with little mercy by the heathen Esquimaux, who make them fag hard for the little food they
allow them. This consists chiefly of offal, old skins, entrails, such parts of whale flcbh as are not fit
for other use, rotten whale fins, &c., and if there is none of this kind of food, they are left to them-
selves to seek dead fish or muscles on the sea-shore. When pinched with hunger they will swallow
almost anything, and on a journey it is necessary to secure the harness within the snow-
house over night, lest by devouring it, they should render it impossible to proceed in the morning.
When travellers arrive at their sleeping quarters, the dogs are unharnessed, and left to burrow in the
snow where they choose, and in the morning are sure to come to the call of the driver, who then
gives them some food. Their strength and speed even with a hungry stomach is astonishing. In
fastening them to the sledge, care is taken not to let them go abreast. They are tied by separate
thongs, of unequal lengths, to a horizontal bar on the fore part of the sledge. An old knowing one
leads the way, running ten or twenty paces a-head, directed by the driver's whip, which is often
twenty-four feet long, and can be well managed only by an Esquimaux. The other dogs follow like
a flock of sheep. If one of them receives a lash, he generally bites his neighbour, and the bite goes
roxmd. — Periodical Accounts of the Missions of the United Brethren, vol. iii, p. 226, 227.

fit
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would reach that place aUve. Our g-iiide w« soon lost siffht of. I did my best to
follow his track, driving* over stock and stone. I or great part of the way I was obliged
to run by the side of the sledg-e, and, where the track was narrow and precipitous, to
keep it from falling' down the declivity. Some of the precipices were, indeed, so
frightful, that had not the Lord given His angels charge concerning us, we must have
been subjected to some serious, if not fatal accident. Thus we proceeded over one
8t?ep eminence after the other, when, all at once, the sledge, the dogs, and myself were
driven backwards along the slippery snow ; nor did we reach the summit of the hill
we were ascending, till this accident had happened to us three times. Eighteen such
eminences we had to surmount with our emaciated dogs. Intense as was the cold,I was
in a profuse perspiration, owing to the constant exertion I had to make. When the
night overtook us, it became scarcely possible to discover the track of our forerunner,
or to see the dangers which beset our way. We lievertheless proceeded, and by nine
o'clock we overtook our guide. Hunger and thirst tormented us ; we had still ten
biscuits, and two bottles of beer, but the beer being changed into ice, we were obliged
to moisten our biscuits with snow ; we then proceeded, our guide assuring us that
Hebron must be on the other side of the hill. So far was this from being the case, that
we had ten more hills to cross, before we reached the neighbourhood of that settlement.
Shortly after midnight, we came upon a sledge-track, and pursued our way ^ith some
degree of confidence. At length, after more adventures than I could easily describe,
we were permitted to reach the end of our toilsome and hazardous journey, truly
thankful for the help and preservation we had experienced. Having spent three
pleasant days with our brethren and sisters at Hebron, we returned to Okak in
another sledge, performing the journey with ease in twelve hours." *

On another occasion, Br. Miertsching made the journey alone, and accom-
plished the distance, between sixty and seventy miles, with twent^'-six dogs, in
about eight hours.

Br. Miertsching and his fellow servants could this year say with heartfelt
thankfulness to the Lord, that among the members of this congregation Avere many
faithful souls, whose conduct did honour to the Christian profession

In August, 1847, the mission family at Okak reported with gratitude of heart,
that the past year had been in almost every respect a season of prosperity to them-
selves and their flock. Their Heavenly Father sent them provision in such abun-
dance, that want was banished from their dwellings — and of the operation of the
Spirit of God in the hearts of their people, they had encouraging evidences. The
one hundred and thirty children who attended their school examination, showed that
the pains bestowed upon them had not been fruitless, and their improvement in
reading and writing was considerable.

* Periodical Accounts, vol. xviii. p. 81, 82,

est to
bliged

Having" now made some proficiency in the Esquimaux langfung-e, an unrestrained
intercourse with the youn}»^ people under his care became very agreeable to him. He
relates, however, " It is not till a matter has been long discussed that we can get
into anything like clearness with our pupils ; the fault of which must be in part laid
to my own door, as I am not yet fully competent to carry on a discussion in the
Esquimaux language." So difficult i] its acquisition.

At the same time, the brethren at Okak were enabled to record the gratify-
ing fact of the meetings of the congregation, now reaching to four hundred
persons, being more crowded than ever they had been before.

The report from Okak of August, 1848, conveys the pleasing intelligence, that
the children and youth under care of the brethren continued to give much satisfaction,
by regular attendance at school and diligence and progress in learning. By far
the majority read very fairly, and possessed a satisfactory acquaintance with the
narratives and doctrines contahicd in the Holy Scriptures ; and had become exceed-
ingly desirous to obtain copies of the Hymn-book in their language. In the
knowledge of arithmetic and geography they were still very backward, but their
advancement in spelling was truly pleasing.

The difficulties to be overcome in the education of so rude a people as the Esqui-
maux, led the labourers to a humbling sense of their own insufficiency and weakness,
and to consider themselves rather as hindrances than as instruments in the Lord's
hand, toward the gathering in of the reward for the travail of His soul. To Him,
theu" blessed Saviour, they looked for that patience and resignation, so much required
for the continuance of their arduous exertions among this benighted nation ; who
like themselves were the purchase of His own most precious blood. It will readily
be conceived that it was no small pleasure to the missionaries when they found a
diligent Bible student among a people whose general indolence and mental torpor
is to an European almost inconceivable.

Br. Miertsching's winter evenings (winter being the only period of the year that
can be devoted to learning), were mostly spent in conversation with his young men,
usually on some passage of Scripture, and occasionally on subjects of general history,
of which he endeavoured to give them some idea. He observes, " their questions and
remarks were certainly very curious, but at the same time they elicited the best
proof of their attention having been awakened." He also speaks of a small fine-
toned organ, which had in the previous year been sent from Europe, as a source
of no small gratification to his Esquimaux, who were inexpressibly delighted on
hearing it played by him for the first time.

In April, the one hundred and forty-seven pupils underwent a public exa-
mination, when it was found that seventy-eight of them could read with tolerable
correctness and fluenc}'. Of those in the lowest class, five years and under.

r'sw

several hud made a hopeful beginning", and were consequently promoted to the
second class, from which ag-ain others advanced to the first. Their writing- books
g-ave evidence in most cases of satisfactory progress, and some of the orthographical
exercises were almost faultless. Their recitation of various portions of Sci'ipture,
and no doubt of hymns too, was equally satisfactory.

In the year 1849, Br. Miertsching, having occasion to visit Germany, left Okak

for that purpose in the "Harmonj ' on the 13th of September, and reached London

on the 23rd of the following month, in company with Br. and Sr. Hertzberg,

who had faithfully served the cause of Christ in Labrador many years, and were

now retiring to close their d'^clining days of service in their native land. The

voyage was somewhat tedious and boisieious, but it was rendered memorable by

having on board nine sailors, the survivors of the barque Graham, Captain Froud,

which had been lost in the ice near to the entrance of Hudson's Bay. They had

landed at Okak in most wretched circumstances, after twenty-four days of

unparalleled distress. The poor sufferers, who had not the remotest idea of a mission

on this coast, and were apprehensive of being murdered by its inhabitants, did not

venture to accept the invitation of two christian Esquimaux, who had cautiously

approached them in their kayaks j* but when at length, all hope of other relief

being extinguished, the few that were able to walk ventured on shore, and heard

the melodious voices of the women, chanting a hymn of praise to God for their

deliverance from impending death ; when they afterwards saw some of them occupied

in washing their clothes, and others preparing a meal of fish and seal's flesh to

revive and refresh them, their hardy spirits were quite overpowered, and they burst

into tears. Here was a powerful evidence of the great change wrought in the

* The kaj-ak or fishing boat of the Esquimaux is six yards in length, pointed at the liead jind stem,
nud .shaped like a weaver's shuttle ; it is at the same time scarcelj' a foot and a half broad over the
middle, and not more than v. foot deep. It is wd'At of a slender skeleton of wood, consisting of a keel
a id lonr: side laths with cross ribs like hoops, but not qxutc round. The whole is covered with seal's skin.
I; the ;iiiddle of this covei'ing there is a round apertiu'e, supported with a strong rim of wood or bone.
Ti. '^'quiuiMux slips into tho cavity with his feet, aud nits down upon a board covered with soft skin ;
)iij t.ht'i) tucks his water-pelt, or great coat, so tight about him (the rim of the opening forming a girdle
r. nd his loins), that uo water can penetrate into his little skiff. His lance, harpoon, and fishing tackle
are all arranged in due order before him. His pautik or oar (made of red deal and strengthened with
bone inlaid) he uses with admirable dexterity. This, except when he is u liug his weapons, he grasps
with both hands in the middle, strilung tho water on either side alternately, by which moans he can
propel himself at the rate of twenty or even t renty-four leagues a day. In his kayak the Esquimaux
fears uo storm so loiig as he can keep his oar, which enables him to sit upright amousr the roughest
breakers, or if capsized, wliile the head is downward under water, with one stroke he can recover
himself; but if he lose his oar in a high sea, he loses all. — Montf/omrry^s Greenland, cdat, 1819, p. 145.
Caique, contracted to Caic, French, a skiif belonging to a galley. The Turkisli merchant vessels
navigating the Black Sea are called Caiks.

Ji'ipture,

character and conduct of the Esquimaux b}' our Lord, throug^h his feeble servants
employed in the mission of Labrador, who can also bear many other testimonies
to the happy effects of the g-ospel of the blessed G \ on the lives and conduct of the
people, in the work of whose conversion and civilization they have felt it to be their
heart's delig-ht to serve.

Shortly after the return of Sir James C. Eoss, from his unsuccessful voyag-e in
the Polar Reg-ions, in search of the lamented Sir John Franklin and his adventurous
companions, the British Government determined to re-commission the ships " Enter-
prize " and " Investig-ator," which Sir James had commanded, for a renewal of the
search. The Board of Admiralty, at the sug-g'estion of those disting-uished Arctic
explorers, Sir Edward Parry and Sir John Richardson, were hereupon induced to
apply to the Mission Board of the Brethren for the co-operation of a Labrador or
Greenland missionary in this humane and beneficent enterprise j it being" held to be
of great importance that a means of ready and satisfactory communication with the
Esquimaux Avho mig-ht be fallen in with on the western or northern shores of the
Polar seas should, if possible, be secured. Though aware of the serious inconvenience
and loss to which either of the northern missions would be subjected by the indefinite
absence of one of its more experienced servants, the Elders' Conference of the Unity,
following the mind and will of their gracious Lord, cheerfully and cordially
acquiesced in the application, under the belief that in yielding assistance towards the
carr^'ing out of an object so noble and benevolent, the servants of the church would
bt acting in the spirit of Him who came not to destroy but to save the lives of men.
They were animated also with the hope that an opportunity might thus be afforded
in the good providence of God, of scattering the precious seed of the Gospel
among hitherto unvisited tribes of the Esquimaux race ; and by the persuasion
that it was a duty owing to the British Government thus to manifest a grateful
appreciation of the favour with which the missions of the Brethren among the heathen,
especially the one on the coast of Labrador, had ever been regarded by it, and of
the protection and assistance which it had constantly received at its hands. The
result Avas, that Br. Miertsching, then in Germany with his friends, was appointed
by the Board of Admiralty to the office of Esquimaux Interpreter to the proposed
expedition, a coram ission which he accepted in dependence on the gracious help of
the Lord.

Br. Miertsching, after a somewhat tedious and trying journey across the north of January,
Germany — the railway trains being not unfrequently stopped by the snow which
covered the land— reached London on the 16th of January, 1860, whence, after a halt
of thirty-s'x hours, in the course of which he was liberally supplied with everything
necessary for his outfit, he proceeded to Plymouth, arriving* just in time to join the
expedition. It was originally intended that he should be received on board the

1850.

■~l'i

April, 1850.

" Enterprize," commanded by Captain Collinson, C.B., but there being- no vacancy
for him in the ship, he was obliged to take a berth in the " Investig-ator," under
the command of Captain Robert M'Clure. The expedition sailed from Plymouth
Sound on the 20th of January, 1850 ; its intended course being" throug-h the Strait
of Mag-ellan to Valparaiso, thence to the Sandwich Islands, and finally to Behring's
Strait and the Polar Sea.

• • • " There to steer their dangerous way,
To regions in the twilight verge of day.

Through barriers of eternal ice.
Generous and hopeful on the voyage they move,
And fearless tempt this venturous deed of love."

On board the " Investig'ator," Br. Miertsching* experienced every kindness and
attention, both from the officers at whose table he dined, and the rest of the ship's
company. The crew altogether consisted of sixty-eight persons, including ten
officers, with whom he wos classed, and two surgeons. His cabin being very
confined, he was kindly permitted to spend great part of his time during the outward
voyage in that of the Captain, where he employed himself in reading and writing* or
in learning English, of which previously he had but a slight knowledge. In point
of outward comfort he had never fared so well before, and probably never would
again ; one thing only was wanting — the fellowship of his brethren.

Three da3's after leaving* port, they encountered a storm, which at night carried
away the ship's topmasts and one of the j'ards, while he lay asleep happily uncon-
scious of what was going on upon deck. On the 11th day of sailing they lost sight
of their consort, and did not rejoin her until they reached the Strait of Magellan.
Contrary winds prevented them from making Madeira, and fi'om the report of a
fearful epidemic raging at Rio Janeiro, tiiey did not venture to touch there. Br.
Miertsching suffered much from the heat between the tropics, which, however, was
not so great as he expected.

At length, on the 12th of April, they reached Cape Virginia and entered
the Strait of Magellan ', but, as it was nearly dark, and the tide rose foVty
feet, they cast anchor. Next morning, under favourable wind and tide, they con-
tinued their course close in shore. Struck with the scenei ■', Br. Miertsching
exclaims, " What a beautiful countr}', compared with Labrador ! It is an extended
champaign diversified only by gentle slopes. During the day we saw more than
six thousand llamas grazing. This animal is about as large as a middling sized
cow, brown and white in colour, with a long neck and small head." In the after-
noon they came up to the steam vessel, which was waiting to tow them through
the strait. Here they saw a large number of the natives on horseback, besides
women and children, who all seemed to be well proportioned, and of large stature ;

ship's

Br.

of a tawny complexion, and wearing- long" ga'*ments of llama skins. Br. Miert-
sching expressed delight at the appearance of the children. But " oh to think of so
fair a land with so many people, and all heathen, without a missionary."

When the " Enterprize" and " Investigator" met in the Strait of Magellan, it
was the intention of Captain Collinson to take Br. Miertsching into his own ship,
having provided accommodation for him ; but as he was very happy and comfort-
able, he begged hard to remain where he was until they should arrive at the
Sandwich Islands ;— to which request the Captain acceded. Captain M'Clure and his
oflScers having spoken of him in the highest terms, and being as sorry to lose him
as he was loth to leave them.

At Port Famine, which is a penal settlement belonging to Chili, they bought
two oxen, two pigs, and a dog. There was a Spanish priest at this place, whose
outward aspect had very little to remind them of a pastor in the service of Christ.

At Port Gallant, in whose bay contrary wind and fog obliged them to anchor,
they found the " Enterprize" and six American vessels. It had been intended to
take in fresh provisions at Valparaiso, but they now received instructions to sail
direct for the Sandwich Islands. Br. Miertsching had seen from the ship in her
progress four large settlements of the Patagonian Indians, and availing himself of
a short delay, caused by a strong head wind, he went on shore, where he found the
grass more than two feet high, with box-trees in abundance, and an uncommon
variety of flowers. Hills a thousand feet high skirted with impenetrable forests ;
and multitudes of birds, rabbits, deer, and llamas, gave life to the landscape. Not
far from a spring' he found an Indian wigwam.* He also saw two canoes made of
the bark of the birch tree, and some small articles left by the natives — but the
inhabitants had disappeared.

Leaving Port Gallant on the ISth of April, they reached Honolulu, in Oahu,
Sandwich Islands, on the 1st of July, after a rather boisterous and unpleasant voyag'e,
having finally parted from the " Enterprize" on the 21st of April. They had to
struggle long against a violer.t north-Avest wind. It was a trying period, the waves
broke incessantly over the deck, several of the sailors fell sick, and this state of
things continued with little intermission, until the end of May.

In Br. Miertsching's cabin the water stood two inches high ; every night he
had to sleep in a wet bed, so that at last he became unwell, and was not entirely
recovered when the ship arrived at Honolulu. The weather was calm during the first
three days of June, but afterwards the wind sprung up and was most favourable.
This part of the voyage presented but little of interest, nothing having been observed
except large shoals of flying fishes. On the 20th they saw land j it was the great

* An Indian cabin or liut, so called in America. It is sometimes written JTeeA'it'om.— Wxbstee.

•itwit^mmmammm^

volcano of Mouna Roa, sixteen thousand feet high, on the island of Owhyhee.
They then passed three islands before entering^ the port of Honolulu. At Honolulu
they learned that the " Enterprize" had left on the previous day for Behring's Strait.

As the Captain purposed remaining here a fortnight, Br. Miertsching was
advised by the doctor to take up his quarters in the town, which he considered
necessary for the complete recovery of his health. Adopting this advice, he inquired
for the American Missionaries resident there : by them he was kindly received, and
provided with lodgings. In reference to his stay at this place, he could not express
himself too highly or gratefully of the generous hospitality shewn him by the Mission
family. The friendly intercourse he enjoyed with the Missionaries, Clark and Rice,
and the sailors' chaplain, the Rev. S. Damon, as well as with several Christian families
in the town, was very encouraging to him. His spirit was truly refreshed by a
parting service, at which all the families belonging to the Mission united, and thus
he was enabled with renovated health and courage, to resume his berth on board the
ship when she proceeded on her voyage. Br. Miertsching was unable to judge as to
the spiritual life of the large congregations of Christian natives in the Sandwich
Islands, with which however the Missionaries appeared to be satisfied ; but he found
that their more favoured flocks were in no respect further advanced in civilization
than the Esquimaux on the inhospitable shores of Labrador.

On the 4th of July, the anniversary of the day on which the Americans declared
their independence, the "Investigator" left the harbour of Honolulu, and Br.
Miertsching having received from London a vocabulary of the language spokts by
the Western Esquimaux, commenced a systematic investigation of it, hoping soon
to become acquainted with its peculiarities, as he found it to be a dialect of the one
spoken by the Esquimaux in Labrador, the primitive words being the same in both.
He had already made it his daily practice to devote a portion of his time to the
study of the English and Esquimaux languages, especially the latter, cherishing the
hope that, should it be the will of the Lord, he might yet return to the service
of the Mission in Labrador.

Among the incidents of the voyage, Br. Miertsching was favoured to observe a
work of grace in the heart of his friendly attendant, who at first appeared to him to
be nothing but a merry thoug'htless person. On getting a little better acquainted
with the Esglish language, he had many conversations with him, and gave him
several religious books to read. Not long after this he observed that he had
altered his manner of life, and had become more quiet and retired, and on the arrival
of he ship at Honolulu, he, with the rest of the crew, obtained leave to go
on shore, when he immediately proceeded to the Rev. Mr. Damon, the sailors'
chaplain, in order to buy of him some religious books and tracts. In the course
of the subsequent voyage, Br. Miertsching not unfrequently noticed several sailors

e service

reading- these very attentively, instead of joining in the worldly amusements,
in which they formerly took pleasure.

The " Investig-ator," instead of following the track of all former navigators, that
is to say, running- to the westward first, stood directly north ; her progress from
Honolulu having-, under a most favourable wind, been between the Aleutian islands^
Amlia and Tschunam, on the 20th of July.

On the 24th she sailed by Gore's Island ; and on the 29th, having passed Law-
rence's and King-'s Islands and Cape Prince of Wales, she was in Kotzebue Sound.
She made the ice on the 2nd of August, and exchanged numbers with the ship
" Plover," on the 6th, under a press of canvass. To a signal of recall her Captain
is said to have replied, " Important duty," — " Own responsibility."

Encountering the ice until the 7th, when the wind failed, the boats having been
manned, towing commenced to clear it amidst songs and cheers, and their laborious
work was soon brought to a successful termination in perfectly clear water, in Smith's
Bay, from whence under a light breeze they worked to the eastward ; and on the
8th, being off Point Drew, Mr. Court (second master) was sent on shore, with
Br. Miertsching, to erect a cairn and deposit a notice of the ship having passed.
Upon landing they were met by three natives, who at first were very timid, but upon
exchanging signs of friendship, which consisted in raising the arms three times over
the head, to an angle of forty-five degrees, they approached the boat, and after
the ceremony of rubbing noses, which is their most approved mode of saluta-
tion, they became very communicative. By the assistance of Br. Miertsching,
who was declared by Captain M'Clure to be an " invaluable interpreter," and the
selection of whom to this important office did infinite credit to the discernment of
those who sent him, it was found that the tribe, consisting of ten tents (this being the
only approach to their numbers he could obtain,) had arrived only three days before,
and that they held communication with a party inland who trade with the Russian
Fur Company. The previous evening, they had observed the ship, but could not
imagine what large trees they were (the masts) moving about, and all the tribe
assembled on the beach to look at them, when they agreed that it was something
very extraordinary, and left the three men, who met the boat, to watch.

These men gave the pleasing intelligence that open water would be found along
the coast from about three to five miles distance during the summer; they
also stated that the heavy ice very seldom came in, or never left the land to a
greater distance than at present. They did not appear to know of any islands further
north, as they found it impossible to go in their kayaks, when in pursuit of seals,
beyond one day's journey to the main ice ; and then the lanes of water allowed
of their proceeding three-quarters of a day further, which brought them to very
large and high ice, with not space enough in any part of it to allow their kayaks

29th July,
1850.

2nd Aug.
1850.

8th Aug.
18.^0.

t
i

jhlfiiii iii.iiili ll.lljWWWWWNWPWi

to enter. Br. Miertsching", from his knowledge of the Esquimaux habits, estimated
the probable distance to be about forty miles off shore, which was thong-ht by
Captain M'Clure to be perfectly correct. They moreover mentioned seeing" boats with
white men going- eastward last year, but had not seen any other M'hite persons or
anything- like this vessel before ; they had, therefore, no name of sufficient g-randeur
to g-ive the great " Oraiac,"* as they called her, meaning the " Fast moving Island."
Several of them came off to the vessel but had little to barter, as " all their hunters
were away j but immediately we had been observed, they were sent for, and would
soon arrive ; then," said they, "you will be gone, and how disappointed they will
be !" These appeared a simple kind people ; very poor, very filthy, and looked
exceedingly Avretched. The period when the ship would return was repeatedly
inquired for ; as by that time they would have a quantity of skins — they were anxious
for us to wait a little while, that they might send oft' a 3upply of reindeer, but the
boat returning, and the wind being fair, the ship made sail to the eastw.ard. Captain
M'CIure continues — " We had a gi*eat number of visitors, many of whom had been
their whole lives between theOo ppermine and Point Barrow ; these could give no in-
formation of the missing expedition. I am certain that had any of Sir John Franklin's
people reached these shores, we must have heard of it. The coast is inhabited
throughout, and the natives are, to all appearance, a kind and merry race, and when
we gave them tlie presents through the medium of the interpreter, we told them that
we were looking for our lost brothers, and if they saw any white men in distress,
they were to be very kind, to which they assented by saying they would, and give
them plenty of deers' flesh."

While running along the land, which is exceedingly low, two conical mounds
were observed upon Point Pitt ; these were found to be old Esquimaux caches, in
which they deposit their venison.

AVith much auxiety, great labour, and imminent risk the vessel rounded Cape

Halkett, about forty miles from the entrance to the river Colville, on the 9th of

9tli August, August, when the ice set in close to the shore. On the 11th, oft' Jones' Island, where

a notice was deposited, about thirty natives came alongside in two baidars,f from

1850.

* Or Umiac, the name given by the Esquimaux of Greenland to the large women's boat, which
is managed chiefly by women, and used in summer to transport the whole family with theii tents and
baggage from place to place. It is generally from twenty -four to thirty feet long, four or five wide,
and two or three deep. It is flat bottomed, but sharp at both endb, and consists of a wooden skeleton
knit together by thongs or straps,, and covered with the strongest seal skin. It is not liable to upset,
and lives in the roughest sea. — Moravians in Greenland, p. 41.

t Called Omiac by the natives. See previous note. Baidar is tlie name given by the natives of the
Kurilly islands, and of the north-western coast of America. See Eces' Cyel. artt Baidars, where a
minute description is given of it, somewhat diiFerent from that quoted above.

which some fish and ducks wero oltained in exchang-e for a little tobacco. They
had been about two months on the coast and traded with the Russian Fur Company.
Their surprise of course was very great, particularly at the size of our handkerchiefs
(the sails). The whale boats on board attracted their attention^ and they asked if
trees grew in our country suflSciently large to make them. The head man possessed
a gun with the words " Barnett, 1840/'* upon the lock ; this he obtained of the
Kussians. As a fair specimen of the ubservation of these people and their aptitude
for trade, the foUort'ing remarks of Captain M'Clure may be taken. " Seeing that
we cut the tobacco into pieces to give in exchange for their fish (salmon trout) they
beg-an to do the same with the fish ; this, however, we would not admit, so they were
obliged to come to our terms." " During the afternoon of the same day, while
standing" along* a low flat island, observed a flag (a pa^r of seal skin trowsers) upon
a lofty pole, and many natives around it ; we stood for them, but when the boats
were pulling* in they appeared to regret their temerity, for down came the signal,
and away they ran. Shortly gaining" courage they returned, and as we approached,
arranged themselves in line upon the beach, and commenced extending their arms
above the head, which beinf answered from the boats, perfectly assured them of
our amicable intentions. Upon landing they evinced the most manly confidence,
rubbing noses, and embracing most vigorously. These were very cleanly, so that
the operation was not so unpleasant as it otherwise might have been." Through
Br. Miertsching' it was learned that these people had never before seen an European,
neither had they the smallest article of European manufacture about them. They
live during the summer months upon these desolate islands, and in the winter retire
a short distance on the main land to their warmer residences. Their women and
tents were upon another island.

They are a fine active set of young men, averaging about five feet six inches
in height ; they barter skins, «Scc. with a tribe further west, who in their turn do the
same with others, until they reach the Russian post upon the river Colville, to which
post a despatch was forwarded for England under a faithful promise that it should
be delivered. A few presents were then made to them, together with a boat's ensign,
in commemoration of the first man-of-war whose flag had ever floated in these
sterile regions. They could not comprehend, for some time, the maw-uificence of
the gifts, and were loth to touch them, but at length Br. Mierisching made them
understand that they were sent them by a great chief, and in return they were to
be very kind to all white men they met, and shew them to them. To all this they
agreed ; and the chief man seizing the presents in his arms, ran across the island to
his canoe, followed by the remainder of his tribe, and no doubt hurried with the joyful
tidings to the women.

* A gun-maker iu the east of Loudon.

12th Aug.
1S50.

14tli Aug.
1850.

24tli Aug.
1850.

On the morning- of the 12th four baidars came alongside, containing- the whole
of last nig-ht's tribe and some who had been seen two days before, from which it
appeared that they were migratory. They broug-ht with them a supply of fish and
venison, but the latter was putrid. Most of the men were allowed to come on board,
and althoug-h (aware of their thievish propensities) a sharp look-out was kept upon
them, they most adroitly manag-ed to slip into one of their baidars both handles of a
winch and a small ice anchor, of which the women became the receivers. The theft
was by mere accident discovered by the end of one handle protruding from beneath
the ample proportions of one of the ladies, who, when taxed, immediately returned
the articles and informed upon her husband. For this immorality the whole boat
was interdicted from receiving any present.

Working to the eastward with a current setting in-shore, the ship had to con-
tend with loose ice in rapid motion, the larger floes of which created an eddy that
frequently turned her right round against helm and sails. Besides thi^ she had to
drive through heavy ice in the midst of fogs, which necessitated a constant look-out
to avoid shoals, yet despite of such vigilance she Avas hemmed in, pitched ashore,
and obliged to be lightened, in which calamity eleven casks of salt-meat were
irrecoverably lost by the upsetting of one of the whale boats. At length by means of
warping and kedging among heavy streams, and large masses of ice striking the vessel
with thundering force, and after having been driven back many miles, she reached
Port Warren on the 24th of August, where natives were observed, by whom it
was expected a despatch home might be forwarded. From the contiguity of this
tribe to the Mackenzie river, Captain M'Clure war led to imagine they traded with
the Hudson's Bay Company ; he was therefore greatly surprised upon approaching
the shore to find, instead of being greeted with the usual friendly signs, that two
savages with gesticulations the most menacing, and ai*med with bended bows, and
arrows on their strings presented themselves, one of whom most significantly
brandishing a large knife,waved the boat off. Taking no heed of these hostile de-
monstrations, the boat was pulled in, and they retreated, yelling furiously. " Upon
our reaching the beach," relates Captain M^Clure, " we made the same signs of friend-
ship which we had used with the Esquimaux farther west, but without any effect
until joined by the interpreter, who appeared in his full native costume. This
gave confidence, and upon explaining our friendly intentions they approached, but
when within about thirty yards, observing some muskets in the hands of the boat's
crew, their fury revived. To pacify them the muskets were laid upon the ground,
where they became the object of a cautious examination. Still unsatisfied, they
beckoned to take them to the boat. Seeinjr that nothing- short of this would allow

of any communication, the muskets were sent away ;
permitted us to examine their bows and arrows."

they then apprDached, and

and

By the conversation which ensued, it wns elicited that the ship having* been
observed early in the morning", the whole tribe immediately took to their baidars
with their most valuable skins, and left the settlement ; the chief and his son only
remaining-, as it would have been undig-nif ed in them to retire from the defence of
their property when dang-er was apprehended. A sick sou and his mother seeing
our friendly disposition, soon joined us ; the poor lad's foot was examined by the
Dr. (Armstrong:) ind found to be frightfully mortified. The chief stated that they
were at war with the neig-hbouring* tribes, and had occasional skirmishes with the
Indians ; that they had no intercourse with any person belonging* to the Great lliver
(Mackenzie), nor had they seen any whiie people before. It appeared, however,
that when the sea freezes, towards the latter end of September, the whole tribe
proceeds west, and trades with the Esquimaux who had been met with near Jones's
Island. The interpreter told the chief that he had found a brother in the chief of
one of those tribes, whose name was TJttauwas. The old chief clapped his hands,
and said he knew him well, that he was the great chief with whom he traded, and
the reason for going to such a distance in preference to the Mackenzie was that tbe
white me A had given the Indians very bad water, which killed many and made
others foolish (drunk), and that they would not have any such water. From this it
evidently appeared that the Hudson's Bay Company lose annually many valuable
skins, which find their way to the river Colville, instead of the Mackenzie.

Noticing an old brass button suspended from the ear of the chief, he said it was
taken from a white man that had been killed by one of his tribe, who went away in
his kayak when the vessel was seen. The white man belonged to a party which had
landed at Point Warren, and there built a house. Nobody knew how they came, as
they had no boat, but that they went inland. The man killed had strayed from the
party, and ha and his son buried him upon a hill at a little distance off. The only
answer that could be obtained as to the probable time when this took place, was that
" it might be last year, or when I was a child." The spot was examined, but there
was no indication to be found of the missing expedition. Br. Miertsching, from his
knowledge of the customs of the Esquimaux, was of opinion that the story of the
white man was traditionary. Probably some of the early discoverers had been en-
gaged in an affray with the ancestors of the present chief, and one of them had
been killed. The present generation inherit the honour, and so identifying themselves
with their forefathers, speak of the affair in the first person as if they themselves
were the actors, which is very likely, from the vague definition of the time, " It
might be last year, or when I was a child."

Under date the 30th of August, Captain M^Clure relates, " I proceeded in the ^°[^ -J"?-
first whale boat, accompanied by Dr. Armstrong and Mr. Miertsching, followed by
Lieut. Cresswell and a party of officers in a cutter, bringing a variety of presents.

Wo were met upon laiidinnp by two femnles, who greeted us cordinlly, and

throue^h the njedium of the interpreter, acquainted me that the ren. <;r of the tribe
was at Cape Bathurst catching* whales, whicli was at no ^eat distance, and they
world be our g-uldes. Gladly availing* ourselves of this incident, the boats were
directed to pull along the shore, while we, ascending the cliffs, reached a fine level
plain extending" several miles north and south, rich with verdure, and abounding in
moss and excellent pnsturag-e for i ein-deer." After walking until towards nig^ht,
the party returned to the ship without finding* the tribe at Cape Bathurst — hence
it appears that time and distance are alike disregarded by the Esquimaux.

Next morning, however, determined to find the whale fishers, Captain M'Clure
and his party, after coasting in his cutter about ten miles, discovered upon the ex-
tremity of Cape Bathurst a large encampment, consisting* of thirty tents and nine
winter houses, numbering a little over three hundred people. Upon landing on a
very low isthmus, which connects within a few yards the islands and the main land,
a commotion at the village was observed, and a number of men rushed down the cliffs,
launched their kayaks, and crossed to meet them. Hauling these light and elegant
skiffs on the beach, they advanced with knives drawn and bows bent, evidently pre-
pared for hostilities. The Esquimaux finding by the gestures of the party that their
intentions were amicable, returned their bows to their seal-skin cases, but the knives
were still retained. The interpreter told them that the visit was a friendly one, and
that they should put away their knives. " Yes," said they, " when you do your guns."

To be allowed to carry the musket appeared a great favour, for which in return
they presented their knife as a token of friendship. Br. Miertsching conversed
with the chief, a fine intelligent middle-aged man, for about an hour, upon the
necessity of his forwarding despatches to the Mackenzie, which he promised most
faithfully to perform. For this he was to receive a musket and ammunition, and
on delivering the packet a further reward, equal in value to a silver fox-skin. Br.
Miertsching* from his knowledge of the Esquimaux character, was of opinion that
although the despatch would have to pass through three tribes of heathen before it
came to the abodes of civilized man, it would safely reach its destination by the hands
of the chief himself, whose tribe did not_, as was expected, trade with the Mackenzie,
but with another tribe further south, oho in their turn trafficked with Indians in the
service of the Hudson's Bay Company. The perfect ease with which Br. Miertsching
understood and conversed with these interesting people, surprised them very much,
and they were most anxious that he should remain among them ; the chief, as an in-
ducement, presenting his daughter, a very pretty girl of about fifteen years of age,
who should be his wife, to which were to be added tents, with all their appurtenances.

Meanwhile, upwards of a hundred persons descending* from the village, it
was deemed prudent not to excite their cupidity by opening the presents. Re-

, »>

tuniing' therefore to the boat with the chief, he wns instructed in the use of his gun,
with which he soon became conversant, and on receiving* the ammunition, he
expressed himself much gratified at the gift, ond walked towards the village with his
chief men. A line was then drawn on the beach, which the recipients of gifts were
not to pass,* and this being perfectly understood, Br. Miertsching commenced the
distribution. For a short time order was maintained, but the fair sex becoming
clamorous and closing round, the line wos broken, and to prevent being driven into
the water. Captain M'Clure and his party were compelled to retreat to their boat,
which w as lying aground about twenty yards from the beach. By this manoeuvre
they escaped from all who had not water-tight boots ; but still about forty of the
Esquimaux surrounded the cutter, and so eoger and persevering were the women,
that several were lifted on boai'd, in spite of the efforts of the crew to prevent it,
and endeavoured to seize everything within reach. One of the women in the most
dexterous manner slipped the compass out of its box into the breast of her jacket;
and it wns recovered with difficulty.

By great firmnesp and the stoppage of supplies, the natives were reduced to the

necessity of keeping order, or were coujpelled to quit the boat. The presents being

at length distributed, and all restored to good humour. Captain M'Clure and his party

bade them farewell, and by the vigorous assistance of the Esquinaux, launched

the boat. They were escorted to the ship by seventeen men in thf a' fairy kayaks,

who all reached her about a quarter of an hour in advance of the cutter, excepting

one, which getting some little distance off" shore, encountered a fresh breeze and a

rough sea. The cutter shortened sail, and took him in, boat and all. The poor

fellow being drenched, was offered a little brandy, which he drank at a gulp, not

beins: aware of its strength ; he suffered the sensation to subside without evincing;

any vexation, except by hia eyes watering, and then asked for water. Many of the

natives came on board the ship, but only one ventured below ; he was exceedingly

surprised to find that we had not tents but houses (cabins), and he said he should

have manv wonderful things to tell when he w ent home. This tribe is a fine

intelligent race, cleanly, handsome, and well grown, and it is deeply to be regretted

that so little has hitherto been attempted in the promotion of their civilization ; but

it requires a higher motive than that of trade to seek tribes inhabiting this bleak

frontier of the icy north, and by the aid of intelligent and energetic missionaries, to

endeavour to lead tjjem from tL3ir present hopeless state to the blessings of

Christianity.

In the forenoon of the 1st of September the vessel appearing off" Cape Bathurst,

* If a line be drawn on the ground round a party of Europeans engaged on shore or on the ice in
making observations, or otherwise not wishing to be disturbed, the natives will understand it is a
barrier they arc not i pass, and generally speaking will respect it.— Captain Washington.

st Sept.
1850.

many natives in their kayaks went on board witliout the 8Hy;hte8t rehictance, and
through the interpreter informed Captain M'Clure that during* the niglit they had
been preparing a feast, roasting whale and venison, and had salmon and blubber
and other delicacies, besides jjlenty of skins, and they hoped he would come on
shore to enjoy them ; this, however, the precarious j)osition of the vessel prevented,
and as it was understood by those on shore, a large number of both sexes joined
the ship, and being clamorous to get on board, were taken upon deck, kayaks
and all. Making themselves quite at home, they examined every article of
furniture in the vessel most minutely ; the pictures and looking-glasses in the
cabins of the officers were objects of much admiration. Many danced with the
seamen, and so nmtually happy were all parties, that had they not been told that
the ship was going towards the ice, and would not come near their tents again,
it was questionable whether compulsory means would not have been necessary
to get them away. It was ascertained from them that the main ice pack is per-
manent, never separating from the shore more than twelve or fourteen miles.
They designate this ice, "the land of the White Bear," as it abounds with
that animal, which they appear to dread. Their fears induced them to entreat
that they might not be landed on the pack, especially as many of their women
were with them. One mother mentioned that her little child was carried
away by one of these aninmls, a short time previous, while at play on the shore a
little distance from her ; and the poor creature shed tears in relating the catas-
trophe. At parting several presents were bestowed upon them, which elicited pro-
mises of friendship towards the white men— those who might hereafter visit their
coast, as well as these now with them. The natives had no article of European manu-
facture except a few iron pots, for each of which they gave the no less formidable
price than live of the best silver fox skins.* This tribe leave the Cape about the
iiOth of September, when the ice is sufficiently strong to bear their sledges, for the
purpose f bartering with the neighbouring tribe. They then go to their winter
houses, some distance in land, excepting a few families, who reside the entire year
upon this bleak and ruthless shore.

The water between the shore and the pack was now practicable, although en-
cumbered with much loose ice, and the ship on the 1st of September finally left the
Esquimaux on the American coast, and proceeded on her increasingly perilous
voyage. On the 5th a large volume of smoke was seen to rise on shore, and as
the ice-mate had positively reported from the crow's nest at the mast-head that
he could distinguish several persons in white, moving about, and had observed

* The fox skins hero spoken of are black, and, as well as those of sable, are greatly superior to
the fox skins of England, being uncommonly fine, and selling at prices varying from ^£20 to 3640 per
skin, at the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company.

white tents in a hollow of the cliff, Captain MTliiro expected to find there n party
of Europenns in distress. lie, therefore, despatched Lieutenant Cresswell with Dr.
Armstrong- and IJr. Miertsching- in the first whale boat, to ascertain the fact. On
their return they reported that the smoke arose from fifteen small mounds of volcanic
appearance, occupying- a space of about fifty yards ; the atmosphere of the place
being- strongly impregnated with sulphur. The lower mounds were about thirty feet
above the level of the sea, the highest about fifty feet ; the land in the vicinity was
blue clay, much intersected with ravines and deep water-courses, varying in eleva-
tion from three hundred to five hundred feet. Thus the mystery of the white shirts
and tents was at once explained, and the faint hope of discovering a part of the
missing expedition was again disappointed.

On the morning" of the flth hig-h land was observed, distant about fifty miles.
On approaching- it the main pack appeared to be resting upon its western shore,
which it was, if possible, intended to coast. As, however, the eastern side wes com-
paratively clear " of ice as far as could be ascertained from the niast-head. Captain
M'Clure gave the preference to this course, supposing- it to be an island round which
a passage would be found into the Polar Sea. On the 7th they were off the South
Cape, a fine bold headland, whose cliffs rose perpendicularly more than a thousand
feet. This promontory was named " Lord Nelson's Head," in memory of the
illustrious hero, whose early career WuS connected with arctic adventure.* Shortly
afterwards Captain M'Clure landed, and taking- possession in the name of her Ma-
jesty, our most gracious Queen, called the land " Baring-'s Island," in honour of the
First Lord of the Admiralty. Here were observed numerous traces of rein-deer,
hares, and wild fowl : moss, and divers species of flowers, with other things of in-
terest to the naturalist, were also found in g^reat abundance. Latitude 7 1° C north,
longitude 123° west. From an elevation of about five hundred feet a fine view was
obtained towards the interior, which was well clothed with moss, gfiving a verdant
appearance to the range of hills that rose gradually to an elevation of between
two and three thousand feet, and was intersected with ravines, which must
convey a copious supply of water to a larg-e lake situated in the centre of a wide
plain, distant from the point of vision about fifteen miles. The sight seaward was
extremely favourable ; open water with very little ice full forty miles towards the east
insured g-ood progress in that direction.

Promptly availing himself of this advantage. Captain M'Clure proceeded with
his ship until the 9th, when land was olserved about fifteen miles tihead, extending
to the northward as far as the eye could reach. The mountains in the interior were
lofty and snow-covered, while the low ground was quite bare.

* Nelson, when a boy, waa with Captain Lutwidge in the " Carcass," ur.Jer Captain Phipps of the
" Eaceborse," who made the first official voyage to discover the uorth-weat passage in 1/73.

6th Sept.
1850.

■th Sept.
1850.

9th Sept.
1800.

11th Sept.
18,^0.

17th Sept.
1850.

Several very remarkable peaks were discernible, apparently of volcanic origin.
This discovery was named " Prince Albert's Land," in honour of Her Majesty's
Consort ; iat. 72" r N. long-. 119" 25' W. Continuing- their course to the north-
east, on the morning' of the 10th they neared two rocky islets, which they
named after Her Royal Highness the " Princess Royal." The wind becoming
favourable all sail was set in the hope of reaching Barrow's Strait. Their
advance was of short duration, for the wind suddenly changed, and in two
hours the water became so thickly studded with ice floes, that with great
difficulty the ship was kept free until the 11th, when she was beset, and next day
her course was impeded by a very dense pack. Moving ouward through narrow
lanes of water and often stopped by the closing- in of the ice, they proceeded until the
16th, when the ice in the N.E. no longer restrained by the fresh S.W. wind, which
had been blowing for some time, spread itself abro.ia with such rapidity that its
approach could be seen marked as with a clearl}' defined white line, like an unbroken
wave along the dark smooth water. To turn out the ship's crew, and make sail was
but the work of a few minutes, yet with such violence was the ice impelled that
there was scarcely time to get clear of the piece to which the ship had be sn secured,
before it encircled and swept her away, first towards the shore then into deep water,
keeping all on board in dread uncertainty as to what would be her fate. This con-
tinued until near midnight, when its progress was mysteriously arrested, and
gradually opening out, the ice allowed of their running the ship into clear water.
The u'^.niistakeable marks of the season for navigation drawing to a close were now
apparent, anu it became a subject of anxious deliberation what course to adopt with
regard to the safety of the ver-sel ; whether to run the chance of obtaining a harbour,
which, if it failed, Avould place her in a worse situation than at present — or to advance
as long- as the season permitted, and hazard a whiter in the pack. Captain M^Clure
decided on the latter alternative, being, in addition to other weighty reasons, unwilling
to relinquish the ground secured with so much difficulty, labour and anxiety, for
only a remote chance of finding safe winter-quarters, but especially as the ship was
now in the vicinity of Banks' Land, the very direction in which Sir John Franklin
would in all probability have endeavoured to penetrate.

On the morning of the 17th the whid gradually died away, and the vessel was
almost immediately beset. One floe, full six miles in length, in passing' crushed all
before it, and must have cut the ship asunder had not the ice in the opposite
direction yielded to the pressure. The ship was now secured by two stream cables,
(one of iron) two six-inch and two five-inch hawsers to a moderate sized piece of ice,
of a depth of eight fathoms below the surface, and from this she never afterwards
parted. Drifting with it the ship was conveyed to lat. 73" 7', its furthest north-east
position, and then back round Princess Royal Islands, passing the largest floe within

' 1 ffiiTrtaiMito-*"'.'-'-*--*.^-

for

1850.

8th Oct.
1850.

10th Oct.
1850.

five huudred yards, and returning along the coast of Prince Albert's Land to where

she was finally frozen in on the 30th of September, in lat. 72° 60', long-. 117° 55'.

During this compulsory circumnavigation the ship, especially on the 25th when the 25th Sept.

danger she encountered of being crushed was most imminent, received many severe

nips and was frequently driven close to the shore, from which the deep iceberg happily

kept her off. The exposed position of the ship rendered every precaution necessary,

and preparations were made for a twelve months' subsistence on the ice or on shore,

should any emergency arise to make it imperative to quit her. These perplexities

were however terminated on the 8th of October by a nip that lifted the vessel a foot,

while a large tongue of ice getting beneath heeled her on one side. She was righted

by blasting the hummocks around her, and the pack beinfr speedily compressed

with a temperature 7° below zero, the crew completed housing the vessel over and

making other arrangements for their winter-quarters.

This done, and the weather being calm and the ice quiet, on the 10th Captain
M'Clure, accompanied by Lieutenant Cresswell, Dr. Armstrong and Br. Miertsching,
with a party of seamen, landed over the ice, and took possession of Prince Albert's
Land in the name of her Majesty. Walking to the highest eminence observable at
a distance of five miles, they found the country to be hilly, intersected with deep
ravines and large lakes, and this was the general character of the land on both
shores. On their return, they were mortified to find the land and sea ice separated
about a hundred yards along the whole line of coast, and being thus cut off from
the ship, it was not until half-past two on the following morning they were able to
reach her, which was done with great difiiculty by means of Halkett's boats,*
without which the whole party must have been exposed to the severity of a polar night.
The annexation, however, of " Prince Albert's Land" to the British crown, was
considered to have terminated so favourably, that an extra supper and allowance of
grog was directed to be issued to the energetic crew as a reward for their eight
hours' vigorous exertions.

Beirg dissatisfied with the view obtained from Prince Albert's Land as to a con-
nexion between the waters wherein they now were and Barrow's Strait, the settlement
of vr'hich point would solve the problem of a North-west Passage, Captain M'Clure,
as soon as he could safely quit the vessel, determined to proceed in the direction of
that Strait. This was done in nine days by means of sledging, having at 3.45 p.m.
of the 26th of October, 1850, had the extreme satisfaction of pitching his tent upon
the shores of Barrow's Strait, nearly on the line represented on the charts where Sir
Edward l^arry had correctly marked the loom of the land. Thus he
question which was started more than three centuries ago, and the solution of which
had enlaced the attention and called forth the heroism of some of tlie ablest and

2Cth Oct.
1850, N. W.
Passage dit-

decided a covered.

•«5"o'

* Captain M'Clure speaks in high terms of the excellency of these valuable little boats, whoso
whole fitting ia but twenty-five pounds in weight.

•'■^yjmmfmmmjfgim

18th April,
1851.

bravest of men. But no traces of the missing* expedition had yet been discovered.
During the absence of Captain M'Clure, a party joined by Br. Miertsching, while
sporting upon " Prince Albert's Land," encountered a herd of so-called musk oxen,*
two bulls, a cow, a heifer and a calf, and most adroitly shot the whole, which yielded
a timely and unexpected supply of excellent and nutritious meat, and was regarded
as a very favourable termination of the season's operations. This consisted in
seizing the advantages that an invisible power had scattered along their road,
through fields of ice, where all human exertion would have been equally unavailing
with the feebleness of a child to advance them a single j'ard —

" Through untold dangers, toils and death
God safely clear' d their way."

The dreary period of winter, which had been contemplated with much apprehen-
sion, passed mildly away with very little snow or wind, and the health of the ship's
company was graciously preserved unimpaired.

All arrangements being made for the searching parties, and the weather
favourable for travelling, they were started on the 18th of April, 1851, in three
divisions, one to the south-east, one to the north-west, and the third to the north-
east shores.

The first division, commanded by Lieutenant Has well, returned on the 29th
of May, having been absent forty-two dajs, and traced the coast to lat. 70° 38',
long. 116°, and having met with a party of eighteen natives, encamped in the ice
in quest of seals.

The second part}', directed by Lieutenant Cresswell, reached lat. 74° 16', long.
117° 40', and returned on the 20th of May, two of the men being severely frost-
bitten, but they were exchanged for others, and the Lieutenant started again on the
22nd. He came back on the 10th of June, having searched Baring's Island to lat.
71° 10', long. 123° 4'. This was found to be the most fertile part of the polar regions.
Both shores were covered with wild fowl of every description ; musk oxen, deer, hares,
ptarmigan, t p.nd golden plover abounded, and evidently this was their breeding-
place. Though now uninhabited by man, it had apparently once been thickly peopled
by Esquimaux, the moss-covered ruins of whose dwellings were to be seen in all
directions.

The third party, under Mr. Wynniatt, (mate), returned on the 6th ol' May, their
leader having broken his chronometer. The}' were sent off again on the same da}',
and returned on the 7th of June, having been fifty days absent, and made
lat. 73° 21', long. 112° 30'.

* A species of the genus Bos, which inhabits the country about Hudson's Bay. It has large
horns united at the skull, but turned downward on each side of the head. The hair of this animal is
very long and fine. The natives call it mxmgmak.

t A bird of the grouse kiud, generally weighing about a pound, and seldom more. — Cartwright.

Thus a close examination over a vast extent, embracing more than eight
hundred miles of coast, was made. The explorers engaged in this arduous service
were eagerly and constantly on the watch —

•• Where'er some distant speck a sail implies,
With all the thrilling gaze of enterprise :"—

but without the slightest trace of Sir John Franklin, who certainly could not have
penetrated the polar sea in this direction without leaving some traces of his course.
Captain M'Clure, resolving to proceed to the party of Esquimaux seen by Lieut.
Haswell, took with him his " invaluable interpreter," and on the 3rd of June they
met them. They conversed freely with Br. Miertsching, and gave all the informa-
tion they knew about the coast, which they did by tracing it upon a large sheet of
paper brought for the purpose from the ship to their tents, containing a sketch made
by Br. Miertsching, which they at once comprehended. They only traded with
the Esquimaux of the south-east, and had not the slightest article of European
manufacture about them. The use and sight of iron was perfectly new, all their im-
plements were of copper, their spears and arrows being barbed with it. The copper
ore is remarkably fine, but an opportunity of inquiring whence it was procured was
unfortunately lost. It probably comes from the south-east tribes, in their bartering
transactions, inasmuch as the few and simple ornaments they possessed were of
that metal, and obtained from thence. These are a kind, simple, and purely fishing
tribe, devoid of the knavish propensities so characteristic of those upon the Mac-
kenzie and Colville rivers, where intercourse with civilised man has demoralized the

savage.

" Lucre-love true love for man forsakes,
Engenders all imaginable iU,
Turns hearts of flesh to flint, and makes
The untam'd man more savage still."

Upon displaying the presents brcight for them the utmost propriety was
observed; and, although doubtless all were anxious to participate in those treasures,
there was not that eagerness to seize, which rendered the intercourse with the other
Esquimaux so troublesome. So far was it from these to do so, that it was with diffi-
culty they could be persuaded to accept the presents without returning an equivalent.
A piece of scarlet cloth which Captain M'Clure had tied round a girl's neck,
remained there until they were leavhig, when she ran up to Br. Miertsching to ask
what she was to give in exchange, and when assured it was a gift from the
chief, she gracefully acknowledged it with a smile. No weapons were observed
upon them, except such as are used in the chase. They live near their present
locaHty nil the year, not going further northward; neither do they believe

3rd June,
1851.

] 3th June,
1851.

that there are any Esquimaux in that direction ; but to the south-east, along"
Victoria and WoUaston Land, opposite which latter is the American maiii, pointed
out by them under the name " Nunavak Saraluk," the coast is thickly populated.
It appears very extraordinary that they do not even possess traditionary legends of
their ancestors having" been north, where the numerous traces met with on both sides
of the Strait, as well as upon the larg-e Princess Eoyal Island, show that the whole of
this coast must at some period have been d^^nsely peopled. Br. Miertsching found
their language to be identical with that spoken on the coast of Labrador. This he
thoroughly understood and conversed fluently with them, though with the Esquimaux
of the river Colville and Cape Bathurst, he had some difiieulty ; '^ was, therefore,
thought highly probable that ti.d forefathers of these have crossed from Hudson's
Strait, and keeping along the coast line of Victoria and WoUaston Land, have thus
retained the purity of their language, which those upon the north coast of the Ame-
rican continent have, to a certain extent, lost by constant intercourse with the Indians.

On the 13tli of June, every one being on board, and the ship in all respects
rendered as efficient for service as on the day she left Plymouth, with a trifling sick
list arising out of frost-nips and foot-soreness from travelling. Captain M'Clure and
his men now awaited with no small anxiety the disruption of the mighty masses of
ice by which they were surrounded, and the consequences dependent upon that event,
which could not be contemplated Avithout deep apprehension.

The description of the breaking up of the ice is terrific.

" Bcncntli, tlic threatening ground-swells rise,
And, undulating, wave, the sea of ice ; >. '

Then burst its barriers, that disrupted roar
In deafening thunders echoed from the shore ;
Batterj' on battery ! — on every side
Yawn tlie deep gulfs, tlie plain in chasms divide ;
Gathers the storm and rises now the wind,
ihe icy masses dash'd disrupted grind.
In horrid crash on every side are seen
The bellowing waves tliat foam and dash between."

On one occasion the corner of the floe to which the ship was attached, and which
had floated from its winter bed, coming in contact with some of the masses, gave
way, casting pieces of twelve and fourteen feet square completely out of the wate..
It grazed the hard bottom with a sound not unlike distant thunder, as it crashed,
crumbled, and upheaved, throwing an enormous mound up in its centre as if under
the influence of volcanic agency, and then rent asunder ; the part to which the ship
was secured remaining firmly grounded, while the other and lighter portion being
forced onward with accelerated speed, came directly toward her unprotected stern.

In a minute the warps and anchors were let go, and had this not been done, and
had the position of the vessel been less favourable, nothing could have saved her
from immediate destruction. After being- tossed and tumbled about by the ice in all
directions, and after sailing-, warping, and drifting with incessant labour, watchfulness,
and care, until the 16th of August, the passage into Barrow's Strait was found to
be impracticable, although the ship was within twenty-five miles of it, and had
advanced in that direction to lat. 7S° 13', long. 115° ii2'.

Under such circumstances Captain M'Clure bore away in the hope of reaching
the Strait by the western side of Baring's Island, being assured that at Banks's
Land there was a passage into the Polar Sea. As they passed the Princess Royal
Islands with a fine breeze, not a parti^sle of ice was to be seen in any direction,
which only a month before had presented enormous floes and heavy grounded masses
that had been considered to have been there for years. Even the huge pieces that
had been thrown upon the shore had vanished, so that every vestige of that
formidable frozen element, in Avhose trammels the vessel had been held nearly
eleven months, had disappeared.

But this was of short duration, for as the ship progressed in the direction intended,
she was again constantly beset by floes of ice, one of which Ufted her bodily up six
feet, and would have proved fatal had it not been rent asunder by its concussion
with the piece to which she was anchored. Another having- caught the piece to
which she was attached, raised it thirty feet in perpendicular height, presenting a
frightful aspect to all on board, and had it been thrown over it must have crushed
the ship beneath its weight ; it however was rent by the concussion, and giving several
fearful rolls, was hurried onward with the drifting mass. By another the vessel
was heeled over fifteen degrees, and lifted bodily up eighteen inches, with a grind
that shook every mast, and caused the beams and decks to groan as she trembled
beneath the violence of the shock.

Thus labouring with unceasing toil, amidst difiiculties that must be witnessed
to be understood, the voyage was prosecuted with heroic courage and perseverance
until the 24th of September, when, at daylight, observing Barrow's Strait full of
ice. Captain M'Clure determined to take up his winter-quarters in a bay which
subsequently proved a most safe r.nd excellent harbour, and which, in grateful
remembrance of the many perils they had escaped, he named the " Bay of Mercy,"
in latitude 74° 6' north, longitude 117° 45' west, thus finally terminating this short
season's operations, in which the ship had actually been under ^^•eigh only five days.

Here the ship was frozen in on the same night, and has never moved since.

" The cruel ice came floating on,
And closed beneath the lee ;
'Twas ice around, behind, before —
And now there is no sea.

E :

16th Aug.
1851.

24th Sept.
1851.

■;

Ist October,
1851.

1st April,
1852.

Tlie night ia neither bright nor short,

The singing breeze is cold ;
But ice ia not so strong as hope,

Each seaman's heart is bold."

No traces whatever had been met with, nor any information obtained from the
nativts, which could by any possibility lead to the supposition that Sir John
Franklin's expedition, or any of his crews had ever reached the shores visited or
searched by Captaui M'Clure and his men ; nor had they seen anything" of the
"Enterprize" since parting company in the Strait of Magellan, on the 20th of
April, 1850.

In the month of September shooting* and other parties made daily excursions on
land, aud in their rambles they met with an exceedingly old Esquimaux encampment,
and made a most interesting discovery of a range of hills composed of one entire
mass of wood in every stage of transmutation, fi-om a petrifaction to a log fit for
firewood. Many large trees were .^mongst it, but in endeavouring to exhume them,
they were found too much decayed for removal j the larg'est piece they were able to
bring away being three feet ten inches in girth, and seven in length. These were
found at an elevation of about three hundred feet above the beach, which, as well as
the water courses and ravines, was strewed with chips and small bits of the wood,
evidently washed down during the thaws from these ligneous hills.

The hip*hest latitude reached in the course of the voyage wrs 75° north, Avhich
is about ten degrees north of the parts now inhabited by manj yet everywhere
remains of former habitations of Esquimaux were seen, indicating that a change of
climate had led to a change of dwelling*. It is also remarkable that the aurora
harealis was often seen, not of a brilliant appearance as in Labrador, but of a yery pale
colour, and in the higher latitudes beyond the magnetic pole it was lumen australe,
being invariably observed in the south-west, south, and south-east, never northward.

The so-called "ice-blink" was never seen during the vo3'age, nor is it ever
observable at Labrador, but only in Greenland where there are glaciers.

On the 1st of October the vessel was housed in, and the crew were placed upon
two-thirds alloAvance of all sorts of provisions; but before the setting in of the
winter shooting parties were successfully employed in procuring a considerable
supply of deer, hares, and ptarmigan, all in fine condition, the former having from
two to three inches of fat.

This winter, although much more boisterous, was less cold than the last, so that
the crew were enabled, except in the month of January, to ramble over the hills in
quest of game, which afforded all hands a fresh meal of venison three times a fort-
night ; and besides being kept in health and excellent spirits during another tedious
winter, they had upwards of a thousand pounds weight of venison at the yard arms
on the 1st of April, 1852. This sport is sometimes attended with considerable

9th May,
1852.

danger, as was illustrated on one occasion, when a sergeant of marines, while
in pursuit of a wounded deer, unexpectedly met a couple of musk bulls. He
succeeded in killing- both j but /.is soldier-like coolness and intrepidity were severely
testea. Having expended all his shot, he fired his worm, as one of the wounded
and enraged monsters rushed towards him ; but though only at a few yards
distance, it was without much effect, and the animal continued to advance. The
infuriated beast had approached within six feet, and was putting his head to the
ground to make a final rush upon him, when the sergeant, as his last resource, fired
his ramrod, which dropped his prey dead at his feet, and saved himself from
inevitable destruction.

The Esquimaux, probably fi'om want of seals, without which luscious food they
cannot exist, have deserted Baring's Island, notwithstanding that it abounds with
game, and is comparatively fertile.

In April, Captain M'Clure and a sledge party proceeded to Winter Harbour, April, 1S32
where they found an inscription cut in the sandstone by Captains Parry and Lyddon
in 1819-20 ; they returned on the 9th of May, having deposited a testimony of
their visit. In the next month the take of venison afforded an increased supply of
fresh meat ; but in July, the crew having been severely tasked in cleansing the ship's July, 1852
hold, and in ballasting and watering preparatory to her expected removal, exhibited
symptoms of debility, there being no less than sixteen cases of decidedly scoi'butic
tendency on board. The progr^'ss of the malady was, however, happily counter-
acted in great measure by the use of sorrel, of which a great quantity was found on
the island.

The winter of this year set in very early indeed ; the whole past season might
be considered one long* sunless day, since from the end of May to the close of August
that luminary had scarcely been visible at all, and now the bay was entirely frozen
over with young ice, two and a half inches thick. The sea ice that had separated
from the shore for a short time, and had given promise of release for the ship now closed
again and never afterwards moved. Parry's Sound continued all the summer
blocked with masses of ice entirely across it. The flowers, which for a short time
cheered this frost-bound land all withered, the hardy herbage was unable to
withstand the rigorous climate be3'ond the 15th of August, and the winter closing
in, totally annihilated every hope of a release this year.

" The winter went, the summer went,
The winter came around ;
But the hard green ice was strong as death,
And the voice of hope sank to a breath ;
Tet caught at every sound !"

The vessel, however, had sustained no damage, being as sound as on the day

May — Aug.
1852.

15th Aug.
1852.

26th Oct.

1852.
N.W.Pas-
■ sage.

she entered the ice ; and as a favourable season would be sufficient to run her throuj^h
Barrow's Strait, and admit of her safely reaching- England, Captain M'Clure
announced, on the 8th of September, the plan by which he proposed to carry out the
grand object he had in view. This was to achieve the long* sought and almost
hopeless discovery of the North-west Passag-e, between the Atlantic and Pacific
oceans, which during- so many centuries had baffled maritime Europe, and which
discovery the gallant leaders of the expedition believed would amply compensate
for the sacrifices made and the hardships endured in accomplishing" it. This plan
was well received by the officers and crew, and the ship was housed again in her
present bed of immoveable ice, with eve^y indication of a most severe winter.

The 20th of this month was the second anniversary of the discovery of the fact
that a North-west Passage really does exist, and the occasion being- celebrated
as it had been last year, by " splicing- the main brace" as the sailors call it, or the
dealing out of an additional allowance of provisions and an extra g-lass of g^rog, it
had the effect of invigorating- the courage of all, so that the evening- was spent with
hilarity.

It was ascertained that the rein-deer on this coast do not migrate to the south as
had before been generally supposed, but they bear the extreme rigour of the climate,
and exist upon the scanty herbage, chiefly the dwarf w illow, from oif which they break
the snow with their feet, the tapping of which can be heard at a considerable distance
in calm weather, and often led to their discover}-. This was a providential source
of g-reat comfort to the crew, and as the hares and ptarmigan also, descended from
the high ground to the sea ridg-es, the supply of game was such as to allow of two
issues weekly, and of the usual Christmas festival passing off with great cheerful-
ness. The crew, determining to render it menu lo, exerted themselves with
complete success ; each mess-party gaily illuminated and decorated its berth with
original paintings, produced by the genius of the lower deck artists, exhibiting- the
ship in her perilous positions during- their transit in the polar sea, &c. But the
grand features of the day consisted in enormously large plum -puddings, venison,
hares roast and stewed, ptarmigan and sea pies ; dainties which perhaps had never
before graced a ship's lower deck so profusely. Any stranger witnessing this scene
could faintly indeed imagine he beheld in that cheerful company, happy in the enjoy-
ment of robust health, a crew which had passed more than two years in these dreary
regions, and three entirely upon their own resources. Such a mirthful assemblage
under any circumstances could not but be g-ratifying- to a British officer — but in the
lonesomeness of his situation Captain M'Clure felt it deeply. AVliile impressed with
the spectacle as presented before him, he could not be unmindful of the multitude and
magnitude of the kind and beneficent providences, which had been extended towards
himself and his faithful men by the goodness and mercy of God. To Him alone

were due the heartfelt praise and thanksgiving^s of all for the gjeat blessing's they
hiid hitherto witnessed, in positions of almost inconceivable dreariness, darkness,
and desolation. Br. Miertsching", while participating" in the social g-ood cheer, could
sing" —

" Christ, our Light, our Leading-star,
Who hast kiudly uh directed
And protected,
When Tliy mercies, daily new,
We review.
In the dust we fall before Thee,
Lost in wonder, and adore Tiiee ;
None can give Thee praises due."

On the 3rd of March, 1853, after enduring' an extremely hard winter, the ther- 3rd March,
niometer being" in one week as low in average as 02" below zero, Captain M'Clure "^ '

found, on inquiry, that the ship's provisions could not last until November, and he
resolved, according" to the pl.iu referred to above, to lessen the number of mouths, by
sending" twenty-six of the men who had been suffering* from scurvy and dropsy,
but were now to a certain extent convalescent, with sledg'es to Port Leopold, and
Br. Miertsching" and seven others to the Mackenzie River, from whence they could
trace their way through the wilds of North America to New York.

The 15th of April was fixed for their departure, and their sledg^es and all else
were ready, when most unlooked-for and joyful tiding-s were suddenly announced,
which superseded these arrang"ements.

On the 14th of October, 1852, Lieutenant Mecham, of her Majesty's ship "Re-
solute," commanded by Captain Henry Kellett, C.B., on his return from searching*
for Sir John Franklin, visited the Parry Sandstone at Winter Harbour (see
page 27 antea), and found on it the record deposited by Captain M'Clure in
the pre\ious month of April. The winter, however, was too far advanced to
admit of a party being' then sent to him, but on the 10th of March, the earliest loth March
moment of the spring- of 1853, a party was despatched, althoug"h with only the
slightest hope of reaching- the " Investigator" before she should (as supposed) have
been deserted by Captain M'Clure.

This party arrived at the Bay of Mercy on the Cth of April, under the command
of Lieutenant Pirn, whose first approach to the " Investigator" is thus related by
Captain M'Clure, by whose side Br. Miertsching was then pacing the ice in front
of the ship. " I would," s ys he, " were it possible, endeavour to convey the state
of feeling- Avhich animated not only myself but every soul on board, when this
sudden and unexpected appearance on the floe about two hundred yards from the
ship was remarked. All description must fall below the reality. Only imagine, if

18.53.

Cth April,
185'2.

fiiWi^yjWE'

7th April,
1853.

19th April,
1S53.

2ii(l May,
1853.

you can, a whole crew which had to this moment no idea of any ship but their own
being" within the limit of these dreary regions, cut off from the world, their isolated
situation, and (in defiance of all exertion) a little despondent ; when, accidentally, a
8trano;e, renmrkable and solitary fig-ure is seen rapidly advancing", showing- gesticu-
lations of friendshij) similar to those used by the Esquimaux, black as Erebus from
the smoke created by cooking" in his tent. My surprise, I may almost add, dismay
was great in the extreme. I paused in my advance, doubting" who or what it
could be, whether a denizen of this or of another world ; — however, the surprise was
momentary. "I am Lieutenant I'im, late of 'Herald;' Captain Kellett is at
Melville Island." As the apparition was thus indubitably discovered to be
solid real Eng-lish flesh and blood, to rush and seize him by the hand was but the
first impulsive g-ush of feeling". The heart was too full for the tongue to articulate,
as this dark stranger communicated his errand of mercy. The sick, forgetting their
maladies, jumped from their hammocks ; the healthy from their despondency — all
flew to the only hatchway that Avas open, and in far less time than it takes me to
write this, all hands were on deck. Such a scene can never be forgotten— all was
now life, activity, and joyful astonishment. In the twinkling of an eye the whole
crew Averv-* changed — but, I shall cease to say more ; for I might write much, but
never could, even faintly, convey the remotest idea of the sensation created by this
most opportur J and providential arrival of your relieving* party."*

Thus, says Br. Miertsching, " the Lord interposed for our deliverance !"
The next day, Captain M'Clure and a part of his company quitted the " In-
vestigator" with Lieutenant Pim, and reached the " Resolute" at Dealy Island, near
the south coast of Melville Island, on the 19th. The distance was accomplished by
six houi's' alternate travelling and rest, which proved to be a great improvement on
the old method of going a-head by day and heaving-to at night ; so that this
wonderful journey of one hundred and sixty-seven miles from ship to ship (crow's
flight) was made in twelve days.

On the loth, a second party, consisting of three officers, Br. Miertsching, and
twenty-four men, followed in three sledges, and arrived at Dealy Island on the 2nd
of May. All were greeted by Captain Kellett, his officers, and crew with that truly
cordial welcome which is so characteristic of the British seaman —

" In cheering grog the rapid course goes round,
And not a care in all the circle 's found.
Forgetful of the past, with festive song,
Young pleasure led the jocund hours along ;
A thousand thankful thoughts their souls employ,
That fondly dance to scenes of future joy."

* Letter from Captain M'Cluro to Captain Kellett, dated 2nd i^Iay, 1853.

[

The latter party from the " Investigator" were nearly nil affected trUk scurvy j
the men, however, rapidly improved under the good diet with which they were now
supplied. As to the sanitary state of the ship's company during the voyagt , it is
remarkahle that up to the day of their discovery by Lieutenant J'im, the number
on board was undiminished, which evidently proved the general gwd health they
enjoyed. But latterly the crew had suffered much, and two men died b«'tween the
7th and 16th of April ; the one of dropsy after a long illness, the other from a few
days' disease of the heart, perhaps caused by excess of joy at his long-yearned-for
deliverance. Br. Miertsching attended both in their sickness, and was with them
when they departed. May we not hope —

" To the haven of eternal rest,

Now for ever blest,
In the radiance of His love,

Wlio to save fall'n man from endlcsa woe

Lived and suffered here below.
But now exalted reigns supreme o'er earth and heaven aborc."

A third man was suddenly removed to eternity by diarrhoea, caused by unhap-
pily drinking off the contents of some medicine bottles which he had been ordered to
wash.

But Br. Miertsching and his companions had yet another severe winter to endure
in the arctic ice. In the month of August, the " Resolute," on board which they
were, loosened from the ice, and the Captain hoped to sail for England ; but in
September his ship and the " Intrepid," her companion, were both frozen in, and
after drifting about until the 13th of November, became stationary in lat. 74° 41'
north, long. 101° 2G' west. Here they remained until April 1854, when Captain
Kellett received orders from Sir Edward Belcher, who had wintered in Wellington
Channel, to abandon the ships. This was done, and the crews travelled across the
ice in sledge parties, a distance of nearly two hundred miles, to Beechey Island, whe^e
they were received on board the " North Stav," in which ship Br. Miertsching and
the crew of the " Investigator " sailed for England on the 27th of August, and
landed at Sheerness on the 8th of October, 1854 ; having been absent four years
eight months and eighteen days.

" Heav'n, to atone for toils and dangers past,
Eestor'd them to maternal shores at last."

Aug. 1853.

Sept. 1853.

13th Nov.
1853.

April, 185Ji.

27th Aug.

ISa-t.

Sth Oct.

1854.

The folloAving verses (a little varied in some lines in order to correct the measure)
were penned by J. H. Nelson, an ordinary seaman of the " Investigator," and given
by him to Br. Miertsching, when about to part in April, 185.3 : —

■ 'i

liii

Farewell to the Innd where I often liavo wondoil
My way o'er itH inountniim and valleys of snow ;
Farewell to the rocks and tlio hills I've ascended
The bleak arctic homes of the buck and the doo.*

J'arcwell to the deep glens where oft has resounded
The snow-bunting'sf song, as she caroU'd her lay
To hill side and plain, by the green sorrel bounded,
Till struck by the blast of a cold winter's day.

Farewell, and for ever, to Baring's bleak mountains,
"Where early I've watch'd for tho sun's dawning light ;
His beams sent a thrill through my heart's rapid fountains,
I thought of the land by his beauty made bright.

Tcs ! — oft turn my thoughts to the land of my r'hildhood,
To bushes, and berries, oiid turf-margin'd stream ;
To rambles through meadows, and down by the wild-wood ;
But time has roll'u on — 'tis to me as a drea>n.

Old England, dear England, fair land of sweet rosea,
I long to revisit thy surf-beaten shore.
The banks where its fragrance the violet discloses.
To dwell in thy green fields, — and part never more.

At last, my lads, we're now to part.

Some for our native shore ;
After revolving years, — perhaps

We part to meet no more —
But to whatever climes you roam,

And wheresoo'er you be.
Oh ! think of Him that sits aloft,

Protecting you and me.

Remember you that fearfid niglit,|

Ah ! 'twas a time to mark.
When icy mountains threaten' d near

To crush our little bark ;
"We all had done what men could do.

No other hope had we ;
And who but He that sits aloft.

Protected you and mo ?

* The rein-deer.

t A small bird which appears in the time of snow, of the genus Emberiza ; called also the Snow-

bird. In the United States of America, the Suow-bird is tho Fringilla nivalis.-
J 25th September, 1S50, see p. 21.

■ Webster.

Jsi^sspse^^'^--

Snow-

Oft Imvo tht> lliick niid dnrkniing cldiKlii

ObHiurt'd tlio uninurkM \\.\y,
Ami nmrky hnzo rollM gloomy on,

Anil hid the fmr of day ;
y»i wt' hiivo briivi'<l tlicm' dnn^crH dir",

Many cscnpt'H hud wo,
For Ho tlittt alwaytt sitB aloft,

Protected you and mo

Slioiild prrila, when wo Hopnmte

Beset our ehecquer'd way,
And troubles oftentimes arise,

Then think on this, and say :
" I'll put my trust in Him above.

Who calms the troubled sea ;
And that bright Evr, that's up alofi,

Will still watch over me."

Br. Miertschiiig" returned home with feeling-s of hnmhle gTatitude to the Lord for
protection nnd blessing" experienced nt His hands during* his long" and chang-eful
journeyingfs, cheered with the fnithfulness with which he had been prayerfully
remembered by his brethren and sisters. In the first part of the voyag-e he employed
himself in attaining the English language, and therefore had but little conversation
until his first winter in the ice ; but from thot time he speni many pleasant hours
with the officers and crew, and had good reason to believe that the grace of the
Lord was in many of their hearts. Divine service was held by Captain M'Clure
every Sunday forenoon, and when travelling ashore every morning and evening, in
which all devoutly united. He was thankful also for the hearty kindness and
consideration he experienced at the hands of the officers and men of the vessels in
which he sailed, and especially for the cordiality and attention with which he was
treated on all occasions by Captain M'Clure and Captain Ii^llett — the recollection
of which will only cease when memory dies. He left England on the 11th of
November to revisit the land of his fathers, and when he shall have complied with
the invitation of its ruler, his Majesty the King of Saxony, to apj)ear before and
relate to him the incidents of his voyage, he will return to the embraces of his aged
mother and step-father, and three sisters, anticipating that he will enjoy their society
for a season, preparatory to resuming his labours of love among- the Esquimaux on
the bleak coast of Labrador ; to whom, by the blessing of the Lord, he will become
the more useful, in as far as he shall be able to serve them better from the experience
he has attained during his long and eventful voyage.

But what shall be said on the subject that gave rise to the benevolent errand

of mercy upon which the enterprise and skill of so many hrave and faithful men
have, ala: I been fruitlessly eng'ag'ed ?

Oh ! thai .t had pleased the Almig-hty to prosper his servants in their heavenly
mission ! They failed in their object : but the friends of the late lamented Sir
John Franklin have no cause to sorrow as those without hope. Like one of old
" he feared God above many."

" Though bound with ice, in depths of Polar night,
Tet tiiis we know, if comfort still we crave,
Into that dark, he took with him a light —
The lamp that can illuminate tlie grave !"

Let us bow with submission to His rig'hteous will, in the assurance that futurity
will disclose what the present hides from our view, and that in the awful catastrophe
that has befallen the " missing- expedition," He has maintained the principles of His
nature, which ever were, ever are, and ever will be, that He is " too Just to injure,
1:.. Wise to err, too Good to be unkind."

DANIEL BENHAM.

No. 18, Eegent Square, Loudon,
27th November, 1854.

:1 faithful men

their heavenly

lamented Sir

ke one of old

that futurity
1 catastrophe
iciples of His
ust to injure.

:nham.