*^.>

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

t/.

1.0

1.1

1.25

UIM 12.5

ISO ■'^~ H^B

ui liii

2.0

12.2

!!: ti&

1.4

1.6

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notas techniques et bibliographiques

%^The Institute has attempted to obtain the best
original copy available for filming. Features of this
copy which may be bibliographically unique,
which may alter any of the images in the
reproduction, or which may significantly change
the usual method of filming, are checked below.

D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D

Coloured covers/
Couverture de couleur

Covers damaged/
Couverture endommagde

Covers restored and/or laminated/
Couverture restaurie et/ou pellicuiie

Cover title missing/

Le titre de couverture manque

Coloured maps/

Cartes g^ographiques en couleur

Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/
Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire)

Coloured plates and/or illustrations/
Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur

Bound with other material/
Reli6 avec d'autres documents

Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion
along interior margin/

Lareliure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la
distortion le long de la marge int^rieure

Blank leaves added during restoration may
appear within the text. Whenever possible, these
have been omitted from filming/
II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes
lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte,
mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont
pas 6t6 film6es.

L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire
qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details
de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du
point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier
une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger una
modification dans la m6thode normale de filmage
sont indiqu^s ci-dessous.

I I Coloured pages/

D
D

Pages de couleur

Pages damaged/
Pages endommagdes

Pages restored and/or laminated/
Pages restaurdes et/ou pelliculdes

Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/
Pages ddcolor^es, tachetdes ou piqudes

Pages detached/
Pages d6tach6es

Showthrough/
Transparence

I I Quality of print varies/

Qualitd in6gale de I'impression

Includes supplementary material/
Comprend du materiel suppl^mentaire

Only edition available/
Seule Edition disponible

Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata
slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to
ensure the best possible image/
Les pages totalement ou partiellement
obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure,
etc., ont 6t6 filmies d nouveau de fapon d
obtenir la meilleure image possible.

The
to tl

The
post
of tl
film

Ori{

beg

the

sior

oth(

first

sior

or il

The
sha
TIN
whi

Ma|
diff
ent
beg
rigd
req
mei

Additional comments:/
Commentaires suppi6mentaires:

Various pagings. Wrinkled pages may film slightly out of focus.

This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/

Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqui ci-dessous

10X 14X 18X 22X

26X

30X

12X

16X

20X

24X

28X

32X

The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks
to the generosity of:

Library of the Public
Archives of Canada

L'exemplaire film* fut reprodult grAce d la
gAnirositA de:

La bibliothdque des Archives
publiques du Canada

The images appearing here are the best quality
possible considering the condition and legibility
of the original copy and in keeping with the
filming contract specifications.

Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed
beginning with the front cover and ending on
the last page with a printed or illustrated impres-
sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All
other original copies are filmed beginning on the
first page with a printed or illustrated impres-
sion, and ending on the last page with a printed
or illustrated impression.

Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le
plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et
de la nettetd de l'exemplaire film6, et en
conformity avec les conditions du contrat de
filmage.

Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en
papier est ImprimAe sont fiimts en commenpant
par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la
dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte
d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second
plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires
originaux sont filmAs en commenpant par la
premidre page qui comporte une empreinte
d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par
la dernidre page qui comporte une telle
empreinte.

The last recorded frame on each microfiche
shall contain the symbol •^^ (meaning "CON-
TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"),
whichever applies.

Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la
dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le
cas: le symbols — »> signifie "A SUIVRE ", le
symbols V signifie "FIN".

Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at
different reduction ratios. Those too large to be
entirely included in one exposure are filmed
beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to
right and top to bottom, as many frames as
required. The following diagrams illustrate the
method:

Les cartes, pisnches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre
filmfo d des taux de reduction diff6rents.
Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre
reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 d partir
de I'angle supirieur gauche, de gaucha d droite,
et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre
d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants
illustrent la m6thode.

■'Ji-

VOYAGE

TO THE

PACIFIC OCEAN.

UNDERTAKEN,

BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY,

FORMAKINO

Difcoveries in the Northern Hemi(phere.

Performed under the DireOion of Captains COOK, CLERKE, and GORE,
In His Majefty's Ships the Rt/tlution and Difcovtrj ; in the Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 17791 and 1780.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. I. and II. written by Captain JAMES COOK, F.R.S.
VOL. III. by Captain JAMES KING, LL.D. and F.R.S.

Publiflied by Order of the Lords Comtniffioners of the Admiralty.
THE SECOND EDITION.

^V»'>'»r'fl^

VOL. I.

LONDON:

PRINTED BY H. HUGHS,

FOR G. NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, IN THE STRAND;

AND T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND.

M.DCC.LXXXV.

\t^

CONTENTS

OF THE

FIRST VOLUME.

Introduction. Page i

Infcription to the Memory of Captain James Cook. Ixxxvii
Li/loftbe Plates. — • xci

BOOK I.

TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE TILL
OUK BEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND.

CHAP. I.

T/'ARIOUS Preparations for the Voyage. — Omai's Bebavi-
" our on embarking. — Obfervations for determining the
Longitude of Sbeernefsy and the North Foreland. — Pajfage
of the Refolution from Deptford to Plymouth. — Employments
there. — Complements of the Crews ofbothfljips, and Names
of the Officers. — Obfervations to fix the Longitude of Ply-
mouth,— Departure of the Refolution. Page i

Vol. I.

CHAP.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. II.

Pcj,tg£ of the Refolution to Tentriffe.^ Reception there. —
Defcription of Santa Cruz, Road. — Refrefhments to be
met with. — Obfervations for fixing the Longitude of Tene-
riffe. — Some Account of the I/land. — Botanical Obferva-
tions. — Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna. — Agriculture. —
Air and Climate. — Commerce. — Inhabitants, 14

CHAP. III.

Departure from Teneriffe. — Danger of the Ship near Bona-
vijla. — IJle of Mayo. — Port Praya. — Precautions againfi
the Rain and fultry Weather in the Neighbourhood of the
Equator. — Pofition of the Coajl of Brazil. — Arrival at the
Cape of Good Hope. — Tranfa&ions there. — Jun&ion of the
Difcovery. — Mr. Anderfon's Journey up the Country. —
Afironomical Obfervations. — Nautical Remarks on the Paf-
fage from England to the Cape^ with regard to the Cur-
rents and the Variation. 29

CHAP. IV.

'tfje two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope. — Two IJlandSy
named Prince Edward's^ feen, and their Appearance de-
fcribed. — Kerguelen's Land vifited. — Arrival in Chrifimas
Harbour. — Occurrences there. — Defcription of it. 51

CHAP. V.

Departure from Chrifimas Harbour. — Range along the CoaJIj
to diJcQver its Pofition and Extent. — Several Promontories

and

CONTENTS.

and Bayst cf^d a Peninfula^t defended and named. —-Ban-
ger from Shoals.— Another Harbour and a Sound.— Mr.
Anderjon's Obfervations on the natural Produ&ions^ Ani-
mals^ Soil, &c. of Kerguelen's Land. 70

c H A P. vr. »

Paffage from Kerguelen's to Van Diemeri's Land.^Arrival
in Adventure Bay. — Incidents there. '-Interviews with the
Natives.— Their Perfons and Drefs defcribed.— Account of
their Behaviour. — Table of the Longitude, Latitude, and
Variation. — Mr. Anderfon's Obfervations on the natural
Produiiions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and their
Language. ^i

C H A P. VII.

The Paffage from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand.
—Employments in ^een Charlotte's Sound.— Tranfatlions
with the Natives there. — Intelligence about the Mafjacre
of the Adventure's Boat's Crew. — Account of the Chief
who headed the Party on that O ccafion. — Of the t%m
young Men who embark to attend Omai. — Various Re-
marks on the Inhabitants,— AJlronojnical and Nautical Ob-
fervations. jj3

CHAP. VIII.

Mr. Anderfon's Femarks on the Country near ^een Char-
lotte's Sound. — The Soil. — Climate. — Weather. IVinds.

Trees.— Plants.— Birds.— Fijh.— Other Animals.— Of the
Inhabitants.— Defcription of their Perfons.— Their Drefs.—

Ornaments. — Habitations. — Boats. — Food and Cookery.

Arts.— Weapons.— Cruelty to Prifoners. ^Various Cufioms.
•^Specimen of their Language. 14^

A a

BOOK

CONTENTS.

BOOK II.

FRO!* LEAVING NEW ZEALAND, TO OUR ARRIVAL AT OTA-
HKITE, OR THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.

CHAP. I.

Profecution of the Voyage. — Behaviour of the two Ne^v Zea-
landers on board. — Unfavourable winds. — An I/land called
Mangeea difcovered. — the Coajl of it examined. — Iranfac-
tions with the Natives. — An Account of their Perfonsy
Drefs, and Canoe. — Defcription of the I/land. — A Specimen
of the Language. — Difpojition of the Inhabitants, 167

C H A P. II.

The Difcovery of an JJland called Wateeoo.'-'Its Coajls exa-
mined. — Fi^ts from the Natives on board the Ships. — MeJ'.
Gore, Burney, and Anderfon, with Omaiy fent on Shore. —
Mr. Anderfon''s Narrative of their Reception.— Omat's Ex-
pedient to prevent their being detained. — His meeting tvitb
fome of his Countrymen, and their diflrefsful Voyage.— Far-
ther Account of JVateeoOi and of its Inhabitants. 180

\i\

CHAP. III.

Wenooa-ette, or Otakootaia, vifited. — Account of that IJland,
at d of its Produce. — Hervefs IJland, or Terougge mou
Attooa, found to be inhabited. — TranfaBions with the Na-
tives. —Their Perfons, Drefs, Language, Canoes. —Fruit-

3 i^fs

CONTENTS.

lefs Attempt to land there, — Reufons for bearing away for

the Friendly IJlands. — Palmer/Ion's I/land touched at. '^'De^

fcription of the two Places where the Boats landed. — Re^

frejbments obtained there. — Conjedlures on the Formation

offuch low IJlands.— Arrival at the Friendly IJlands. 205

CHAP. IV.

Inter courfe with the Natives of Komango, and other IJlands.
— Arrival at Annamooka. — tranfa&ions there. — Feenouy
a principal Chiefs from Tonga tab.o, comes on a Fijit. — The
Manner of his Reception in the IJiand, and on board. — /;;-
fiances of the pilfering Difpofition of the Natives.— Some Ac-
count of Annamooka. — The PaJfage from it to Hapaee. 225

CHAP. V.

Arrival of the Ships at Hapaee, and friendly Reception there.
— Prefents and Solemnities on the Occafion. — Single Com-
bats with Clubs. — WreJlUng and Boxing Matches. — Female
Combatants. — Marines exercifed. — A Dance performed by
Men. — Fireworks exhibited.— The Night-entertainments of
Singing and Dancing particularly defer ibed. 242

CHAP. VI.

Defcription of Lefooga.—Its cultivated State.— Its Extent

TranfaBions there.— A Female OculiJi.— Singular Expedi-
ents for Jhaving off the Hair.— The Ships change their Sta-
tion.— A remarkable Mount and Stone. — Defcription of
Hoolaiva. — Account ofPoidaho^ King of the Friendly IJlands.
—RefpeFtJul Manner in 'cchicb he is treated by bis People.—

Departure

CONTENTS.

Departure from the Hapaee {(lands. -—Some Account of Ko-
too. — Return of the Ships to Annamooka. — Poulabo ami
Feenou meet. — Arrival at Ton^ataboo. 156

CHAP. VII.

Friendly Reception at Tongataboo. — Manner of dijiributing a
baked Hoq and Kava to Poulabd's Attendants. — T'he Obfer-
vatoryy &c. eredled. — the Filiate where the Chiefs refide,.
and the adjoining Country, defcribed. — Interviews with
Mareewageey and Toobouy and the King's Son. — A grand
Haivaf or Entertainment of Songs and Dances, given by
Mareezvagee. — Exhibition of Fireworks. — Marnier of Wrefi-
ling and Boxing. — Difiribution of the Cattle. — 'thefts com-
mitted by the Natives. — Poulaho, and the other Chiefs, con-
fined on that Account. — Poulaho's Prefent, and Haiva. 278

CHAP. viir.

Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives. — A fijbing
Party. — A Vifit to Poulabo. — A Fiatooka defcribed. — Ob-
fervations on the Country Entertainment at Poulabd's Houfe.
— His Mourning Ceremony. — Of the Kava Plant, and the
Manner of preparing the Liquor. — Account of Onevy, a
little IJland. — One of the Natives wounded by a Sentinel. —
Mefprs. King and Anderfon vifit the King's Brother. — their
Entertainment. — Another Mourning Ceremony. — Manner
of paffmg the Night. — Remarks on the Country they paffed
through. — Preparations made for failing. — An Eclipfe of
the Sun, imperfe&ly obferved. — Mr. Anderfon^s Account of
the IJland, and its Produ^iions. 309

CHAP.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. IX.

A grand Solemnity i called Natche, in Honour of the Kinfs
Sont performed. — 7'Ae Procejions and other Ceremonies^
during the Jirfl Day, defer ibed. — The Manner of paffmg the
Night at the King's Houfe. — Continuation of the Solemnity ,
the next Day. — Conje&ures about the Nature of it. — Depar-
ture from Tbngataboo, and Arrival at Eooa.— Account of
that IJlandy and Tranfadtions there. 336

:!!

CHAP. X.

Advantages derived from vifiting the Friendly IJlands. — Befl
Articles for Traffic. — Ppfrejhmcnts that may be procured. —
The Number of the I/lands, and their Names. — KeppePs
and Bofcawen's IJlands belong to them. — Account of Favaoo
— of Hamoa — of Feejee. — Voyages of the Natives in their
Canoes. — Difficulty of procuring exadl Information. — Per-
fons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes. — Their Colour. — Dif-
eafes. — Their general Char a^ier. — Manner of wearing their
Hair — of puncturing their Bodies. — Their Clothing and Or-
naments. — Perfonal Cleanlinefs. 364

CHAP. XI.

Employments of the Women at the Friendly IJlands. — Of the
Men. — Agriculture. — ConJlruSlion of their Houfes. — Their
ivorking Tools. — Cordage, andjijiymg Implements. — Mufical
Injlruments. — Weapons. — Food, and Cookery. — Amufe-
niotts. — Marriage. — Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead. —
Their Divinities. — Notions about the Soul, and a future

State.

CONTENTS.

Siaie. — 'T'ibeir Places of }For/hip. — Government, — Manner
of paying Obeifance to the King, — Account of the Royal Fa-
mily. — Remarks on their Language^ and a Specimen of
it. — Nautical and other Obfervations. 390

Mil
I
It

iVti

INTRO-

1 • ■ i

I :■ ,,,<.

:i:„.. :f!'

( . t

INTRODUCTION.

TH E fpirit of difcovery, which had long animated the
European nations, having, after its arduous and fuc-
cefsful exertions, during the fifteenth and fixteenth cen-
turies, gradually fubfided, and for a confiderable time lain
dormant, began to revive in Great Britain in the late
reign *• ; and recovered all its former activity, under the
cherifhing influence, and munificent encouragement, of his
prefent Majefty.

Soon after his acceflion to the throne, having happily
clofed the deftrudlive operations of war, he turned his
thoughts to enterprizes more humane, but not lefs bril-
liant, adapted to the feafon of returning peace. While
every liberal art, and ufefal lludy, fiourifhed under his
patronage at hom^,, his fuperintending care was extended
to fuch branches of knowledge, as required diftant exami-

* Two voyages for difcovering a North Weft paflage, through Hudfon's Bay, were
dien performed ; one under the command of Captain Middleton, in his Majefty's (hips the
Furnace, and the Difcovery Pink, in 1741, and 1742. The other under the diredtion of
Captains Smith and Moore, in the fhips Dobbs and California, fitted out by fubfcription,
in 1746, and 1747.

Vol. I.

nation

INTRODUCTl ON.

iii

nation and inquiry ; and his fhips, after bringing back vic-
tory and couqueft from every quarter of the known world,
were now employed in opening friendly communications
with its hitherto unexplored receffes.

In the profecution of an obje<5t fo worthy of the Monarch
of a great commercial people, one voyage followed another
in clofe fucceflion ; and, we may add, in regular gradation.
What Byron * had begun, Wallis + and Carteret | foon im-
proved. Their fuccefs [;ave birth to a far more extenlive
plan of difcovery, carried into execution, in two fubfequent
voyages, conducted by Cook §. And that nothing might
be left unattempted, though much had been already done,
the fame Commander, whofe profeflional ikill could only
be equalled by the perfevering diligence with which he
had exerted it, in the courfe of his former refearches, was
called upon, once more, to refume, or rather to complete,
the furvey of the globe. Accordingly, another voyage was
undertaken in 1776; which, though laft in the order of
time, was far from being the leaft confiderable, with refpe^l
to the extent and importance of its objects ; yet, Itill, far

* Captain, now Admiral, Byron, had, under his command, the Dolphin and Tamer.
He failed in June 1764, and returned in May 1766.

f Captain Wallis had, under his command, the Dolphin and Swallow. He bilti in
Auguft 1766, and retumed,iKth the Dolphin, in May 1768.

% The Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret, having been feparated from
Wallis, and, by keeping a different route, having made different dilcoverics, this may
be confidered as a diftindl voyage. The Swallow returned to England in March
1769.

§ Captain Cook, in the Endeavour, failed in Auguft 1768, and returned in July
1771.

In his (econd vopge, he had the Refolution and Adventure under his conunand.
They foiled from England in July 1772, and returned on the 30th of July 1775.

3 lefs

INTRODUCTION.

Ill

lefs fortunate than any of the former, as thofe objcdts were
not accomplifhed, but at the expence of the valuable life of
its Condudlor.

When plans, calculated to be of general utility, are car-
ried into execution with partial views, and upon interefted
motives, it is natural to attempt to confine, within fome
narrow circle, the advantages which might have been de-
rived to the world at large, by an unreferved difclofure of
all that had been efFeded. And, upon this principle, it has
too frequently been confidered as found policy, perhaps, in
this country, as well as amongft fome of our neighbours,
to tiffcitX to draw a veil of fecrecy over the refult of enter-
prizes to difcover and explore unknown quarters of the
globe. It is to the honour of the prefent reign, that more
liberal views have been now adopted. Our late voyages,
from the very extenfive objects propofed by them, could not
but convey ufeful information to every European nation ;
and, indeed, to every nation, however remote, which cul-
tivates commerce, and is acquainted with navigation : and
that information has moft laudably been afforded. The
fame enlarged and benevolent fpirit, which ordered thefe
feveral expeditions to be undertaken, has alfo taken care
that the refult of their various difcoveries Ihould be au-
thentically recorded. And the tranfadtions of the five firft
voyages round the world having, in due time, been com-
municated *, under the authority of his Majefty's naval
Minifter ; thofe of the fixth, which, befides revifiting many
of the former difcoveries in the Southern, carried its opera-

* The account of the four firft of thefe voyages, compiled by Dr. Hawkefworth, from
the Journals of the feveral Commanders, was publifhed in 1772, in Three Volumes
quarto; and Captain Cook's own account of the fifth, in 1777, in Two \'oliimes
quarto.

a 2 tions

1 1

ItV

^im

1*1

iv INTRODUCTION.

tions into untrodden paths in the Northern hemifphere,
are, under the fame fandtion, now fubmitted to the Public
in thele VoUimes.

One great plan of nautical inveftigation having been
purfued throughout, it is obvious, that the feveral voy-
ages have a clofe connection, and that an exa6t recollec-
tion of what had been aimed at, and efFedled, in thofe
that preceded, will throw confiderable light on our pe-
riod. With a view, therefore, to allifl: the Reader in form-
ing a juft eftimate of the additional information conveyed
by this Publication, it may not be improper to lay before
him a fliort, though comprehenfive, abftra<Sl of the prin-
cipal objedls that had been previoufly accomplifhed, ar-
ranged in fuch a manner, as may ferve to unite, into one
point of view, the various articles which lie fcattered
through the voluminous Journals already in the hands
of the Public ; thofe compiled by Dr. Hawkefworth ; and
that which was written by Captain Cook himfelf. By
thus fhewing what had been formerly done, how much
ftill remained for fubfequent examination, will be more ap-
parent ; and it will be better underftood on what grounds,
though the Ihips of his Majefty had already circumnavi-
gated the world five different times, in the courfe of
about ten years, another voyage fhould ftill be thought
expedient.

There will be a farther ufe in giving fuch an abftra<5t a
place in this Introduction. The plan of difcovery, carried
on in fo many fucceflive expeditions, being now, we may
take upon us to fay, in a great meafure completed; by
fumming up the final refult, we fhall be better able to do
juftice to the benevolent purpofes it was defigned to anfwer ;
and a folid foundation will be laid, on which we may build

a fa-

>.' '4

INTRODUCTION.

a fatisfadtory anfwer to a queftion, fometimes afked by
peevifh refinement, and ignorant malevolence, What bene-
ficial confequences, if any, have followed, or are likely to
follow, to the difcoverers, or to the difcovered, to the com-
mon interefts of humanity, or to the increafe of ufeful
knowledge, from all our boafted attempts to explore the
diftant recefles of the globe ? . . ,.

The general object of the feveral voyages round the world,
undertaken by the command of his Majefty, prior to that
related in this work, was to fearch for unknown tradts of
land that might exift within the bofom of the immenfe
expanfe of ocean that occupies the whole Southern hemi-
fphere. : i* .

Within that fpace, fo few refearches had been made,
before our time, and thofe few refearches had been made
fo imperfedlly, that the refiUt of them, as communicated
to the world in any narration, had rather ferved to create
imcertainty, than to convey information; to deceive the
credulous, rather than to fatisfy the judicious inquirer ; by
blending the true geography of above half the fuperficies
of the earth with an endlefs variety of plaufible conjectures,
fuggefted by ingenious fpeculation ; of idle tales, handed
down by obfcure tradition ; or of bold fidlions, invented by
deliberate falfehood.

It would have been very unfortunate, indeed, if five dif-
ferent circumnavigators of the globe, fome of them, at
leaft, if not all, in tracks little known, and lefs frequented,
had produced no difcoveries, to reward the difficulties and
perils unavoidably encountered. But the following review
will furnifli the moft fatisfa(5lory proofs, that his Majefty's
inftrudlions have been executed with ability ; and that the
repeated vifits of his lliips to the Southern hemifphere,

have

if-

vi INTRODUCTION.

have very confidcrably added to our ftock of geographical
knowledge.

The South Atlantic Ocean was the firft fcene of our ope-
rations. Falkland's lilands had been hitherto barely known
to exift ; but their true pofition and extent, and every cir-
cumltance which could render their exiftence of any con-
fequence, remained abfolutely undecided, till Byron vifited
them in 1764. And Captain Macbride, who followed him
thither two years after, having circumnavigated their coalls,
and taken a complete furvey, a chart of Falkland's lilands
has been conftrudled, with fo much accuracy, that the coafts
of Great Britain, itfelf, are not more authentically laid down
upon our maps.

How little was really known of the iflands in the South
Atlantic, even fo late as the time of Lord Anfon, we have
the moft remarkable proofs, in the Hiftory of his voyage.
Unavoidably led into miftake, by the imperfedl materials
then in the poffeffion of the world, he had confidered Pe-
pys's Ifland, and Falkland Ifles, as diftincl: places, diftant
from each other about five degrees of latitude •*. Byron's
refearches have re«5tified this capital error; and it is now
decided, beyond all contradidlion, that future navigators
will mijpend their time, if they look for Pepys^s IJland in lati-
tude 47° ; /■/ being now certain, that Pepys's IJland is no other
than tbefe iflands of Falkland \.

Befides the determination of this confiderable point, other

* See Lord Anfoti's Voyage, quarto edition, p. 91.

t Thefc are Captain Cook's words, Preface to his rayage, p. 14. ; and the evidence,
on which he forms this judgment, may be met with in Hawkefworth's Joulhal of Byron's
Voyage, Vol. i. p. 23, 24—51, 52, 53, 54.

lands,

INTRODUCTION.

Vll

lands, fituated in the South Atlantic, have been brought
forward into view. If the ifle of Georgia had been for-
merly feen by La Roche, in 1675, and by Mr. Guyot, in the
fhip Lion, in 1756, which feems to be probable, Captain
Cook, in 1775, has Hiade us fully acquainted with its extent
and true poiition ; and, in the fame year, he added to the
map of the world Sandwich Land, hitherto not known to
exift, and the moft Southern difcovery that has been ever
accomplifhed '*'.

II.

Though the Strait of Magalhaens had been frequently
vifited, and failed through by fliips of different nations,
before our time ; a careful examination of its bays, and
harbours, and head-lands, of the numerous iilands it con-
tains, and of the coafts, on both fides, that inclofe it ; and
an exadl account of the tides, and currents, and foundings,
throughout its whole extent, was a tafk, which, if Sir
John Narborough, and others, had not totally omitted,
they cannot be faid to have recorded fo fully, as to pre-
clude the utility of future inveftigation. This tafk has
been ably and efFe£tually performed by Byron, Wallis, and
Carteret ; whofe tranladtions in this Strait, and the chart of
it, founded on their obfervations and difcoveries, are a moft
valuable acceflion to geography.

III.

If the corredt information, thus obtained, about every
part of this celebrated Strait, fhould deter future adven-
turers from involving themfelves in the difficulties and

* See the Chart of Difcoveries in the South Atlantic. Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii.
p. 210.

embarrafTment?

i 'i

I 'I

■t '

■ %'

viii INTRODUCTION.

cmbarraflments of a labyrinth, now kn*)wn to be fo intri-
cate, and the unavoidable fource of danger and delay, we
have the fatisfadtion to have difcovered, that a fafer and
more exjieditious entrance into the Pacific Ocean, may be
reafonably dejjended upon. The paflage roiind Cape Horn,
has been repeatedly tried, both from the Eaft and from the
Weft, and ftript of its terrors. We fliall, for the future, be
lefs difcouraged by the labours and diftrefles experienced
by the fquadrons of Lord Anfon and Pizarro, when we re-
collcifl, that they were obliged to attempt the navigation of
thofe fcas at an unfavourable feafon of the year ; and that
there was nothing very formidable met with there, when
they were traverfed by Captain Cook.

To this diftinguiflied navigator was referved the honour
of being the firft, who, from a feries of the moft fatisfa6tory
obfervations, beginning at the Weft entrance of the Strait
of Magalhaens, and carried on, with unwearied diligence,
round Tierra del Fuego. through the Strait of Le Maire, has
conftru6led a chart of the Southern extremity of America,
from which it will appear, how much former navigators
muft have been at a lofs to guide themfelves, and what
advantages will now be enjoyed by thofe who fliall here-
after fail rovmd Cape Horn. t

IV.

As the voyages of difcovery, undertaken by his Majefty's
command, have facilitated the accefs of fliips into the Pa-
cific Ocean, they have alfo greatly enlarged our knowledge
of its contents.

Though the immenfe expanfc ufually diftinguiflied by
this appellation, had been navigated by Europeans for near
two centuries and a half •', by far the greater part of it,
* MsgalhMH»'s Voyage was undertaken in 1519.

particularly

•lip

INTRODUCTION.

particularly to the South of the equator, had remained,
during all this time, unexplored.

The great aim of Magalhaens, and of the Spaniards in
general, its firft navigators, being merely to arrive, by this
paflage, at the Moluccas, and the other Afiatic Spice Iflands,
every intermediate part of the ocean that did not lie conti-
guous to their Weftern track, which was on the North fide
of the equator, of courfe efcaped due examination. And if
Mendana and Quiros, and fome namelefs conductors of
voyages before them *>•', by deviating from this track, and
fleering Weftward from Callao, within the Southern tropic,
were fo fortunate as to meet with various iflands there, and
fo fanguine as to confider thofe iflands as marks of the ex-
iflence of a neighbouring Southern continent ; in the ex-
ploring of which they flattered themfelves they fliould rival
the fame of De Gama and Columbus ; thefe feeble eltbits
never led to any efFedlual difclofure of the fuppofed hidden
mine of a New World. On the contrary, their voyages being
conducted without a judicious plan, and their difcoveries
being left imperfedt without immediate fettlement, or fub-
fequent examination, and fcarcely recorded in any well-
authenticated or accurate narrations, had been almofl for-
got ; or were fo obfcurely remembered, as only to lei've
the purpofe of producing perplexing debates about their
fituation and extent ; if not to fuggeft doubts about their
very exiflence.

It feems, indeed, to have become a very early object of
policy in the Spanifh councils, to difcontinue and to dif-
courage any farther i"efearches in that quarter. Already
maflers of a larger empire on the continent of America

* See the particulars of their difcoveries in Mr. Dalrymple's valuable Colleftion of
Voyages in the South Pacific Ocean.

Vol. 1. b than

"1?

''Hi'

INTRODUCTION.

than they coultl conveniently govern, and of richer mincn
of the precious metals on that continent than the; couUl
convert into xile, neither avarice nor ambition furniflicd
reafons for aiming at a frelh acceflion of dominions. And
thus, though fettled all along the Ihores of this Ocean, in a
iituation fo commodious for profecutingdifcoveries throiigh-
out its wide extent, the Spaniards remained fatisfied with a
coatting intercourfe between their own ports ; never ftretch-
ing acrofs the vaft gul^h that feparatcs that part of America
from Alia, but in an unvarying line of navigation ; per-
haps in a fingle annual fhip, betwi en Acapulco and Ma-
nilla.

The tracks of other European navigators of the South
Pacific Ocean, were, in a great meafure, regulated by thofc
of the Spaniards ; and confequently limited within the fame
narrow bounds. With the exception, perhaps, of two in-
ftances only, thofe of Le Maire and Roggewein, no lliips of
another nation had entered this fea, through the Strait of
Magalhaens, or round Cape Horn, but for the purpofes of
trade with the Spaniards, or of hoftility againit them : pur-
pofes which could not be anfwered, without precluding
any probable chance of adding much to our ftock of dif-
covery. For it was obviovilly incumbent on all fuch ad-
venturers, to confine their cruifes within a moderate diftance
of the Spanifti fettlements ; in the vicinity of which alone
they could hope to exercife their commerce, or to exe-
cute their predatory and military operations. Accordingly,
foon after emerging from the Strait, or completing the
circuit of Tierra del Fuego, they began to hold a Northerly
courfe, to the uninhabited illand of Juan Fernandez, their
iifual fpot of rendezvous and refrefliment. And after
ranging along the continent of America, from Chili to
I California,

INTRODUCTION.

California, they either reverfed their courfe back to the
Atlantic ; or, if they ventured to extend their voyage, by
flrctching over to Afia, they never thought of trying expe-
riments in the unfrequented and unexplored parts of the
Ocean ; but chofe the beaten path (if the expreffion may
be iifed), within the limits of which it was likely that they
might meet with a Philippine galleon, to make their voyage
profitable to themfelves ; but could have little profpe(St,
if they had been defirous, of making it ufeful to the public,
by gaining any acceflion of new land to the Map of the
World.

By the natural operation of thefe caufes, it could not but
happen, that little progrefs fliould be made toward obtain-
ing a full and accurate knowledge of the South Pacific
Ocean. Something, however, had been attempted by the
induftrious, and once enterprifing Dutch ; to whom we are
indebted for three voyages, undertaken for the purpoles of
difcovery ; and whofe refearchcs, in the Southern latitudes
of this Ocean, are much better afcertained than are thofe of
the earlier Spanifli navigators above mentioned.

Le Mairc and Schouten, in 1616, and Roggewein, in 1722,
wifely judging, that nothing new could be gained by ad-
hering to the ufual paflage on the North fide of the line,
traverfed this Ocean from Cajje Horn to the Eaft Indies,
{ roifing the South tropic ; a fpace which had been fo fel-
dom, and fo ineffectually vifited ; though popular belief,
fortified by philofophical fpeculation, expecSted there to
reap the richeft harveft of difcovery.

Tafman, in 1642, in his extenfive circuit from Batavia,
through the South Indian Ocean, entered the South Pacific,
at its greatefl: diftance fro.m the American fide, where it
never had been examined before. And his range, continued

b a from

i!i'

Xii INTRODUCTION.

from a high Southern latitude, North waul to New Guinea,
and the illands to the Eaft of it near ih j equator, protkitcd
intermediate difcoveries, that have rendered his voyage nie-
morahle in the annals of navigation.

But ftill, upon the whole, what was elTe<ftcd in thefe
three expeditions, ferved only to fhew how large a field
was referved for future and more perfevering examinptioti.
Their refults had, indeed, enabled geographers v, chver-
fify the vacant uniformity of former charts )t * .„ > la,
by the infertion of fome new illands. Bui tiic number, nnd
the extent of thefe infertions were fo inconiicic .ble, that
they may be laid to appear

Rari, nantes in gurgitc /ado.

And, if the difcoveries were few, thofe few were made
very imperfe^ly. Some coafts were approached, but not
landed upon ; and pafled without w.iitiug to examine their
extent, and connedlion with thofe that might exift at no
great diilance. If others were landed upon, the vifits were,
in general, fo tranfient, that it was fcarcely poflible to build
ui»on a foundation, {o weakly laid, any information that
cou1<l even gratify idle curiofity ; much lefs fatisfy philofo-
phical inquiry, or contribute greatly to the fafety, or to the
fuccefs of future navigation.

Let us, however, do juftice to thefe beginnings of dif-
covery. To the Dutch we muft, at leaft, afcribe the merit
of being our harbingers, though we afterward went beyond
them in the road they had firft ventured to tread. And with
what fuccefs his Majefty's fliips have, in their repeated
voyages, penctrate<l ii-to the obfcureft recefles of the South
Pacific Ocean, wil' ;ir»(-: ♦: ^m the ' " >wing enumeration
of their various ai.^ \ -.y CiUenfive operations, which have

drawtv

INTRODUCTION.

xiu

■I
it

iHwn up the veil that hud hitherto heeii thrown over the
geography of lb great a proportion of the globe.

T. The ievcral lands, of which ni^y account had been
given, as U'-n by any ot the prccc(hng navigators, Spanifti
or D»uch, have been carefully looked for ; and moil of
them (at leaft luch as fecmed to b< ' any confequence)
found out md vilitcd; and not vilitcd in curfory manner,
but every means ufed to corredl former i flakes, an<l to
fupply former deficiencies, by making act rate in(iuiries
afliore, and taking fkdful l"urve\ s of ihcir cou 1>, i ly failin ;
round them. Who has not heard, or r- d, ot the boaf cd
Ticrra Aujlralla del Efpiritu Santo of Qi ros ? But its lx)ld
pretcnfions to be a part of a Southern coi riiiei\ could not
lland'Captain C ook\s examination, who faiicl ro .lul it, and
afligned it its i uc jwfition and moderate >unds, in the
Archipelago of he New Hebrides •'.

2. Befidcs peneding many of the* di* ics of their

predcceffors, our ate navigators have enru i. d geographi-
cal knowledge wi. h a long catalogue of tlv. own. The
Pacific Ocean, within the South tropic, r atedly tra-
verfed, in every dire^Stion, was f(>und to n n\ with a
fcemingly endlefs profulion of huibitable 1| of land.

Illands fcattered thn ugh the amazing fpace o-: lear four-
fcore degrees of lonj. tude, feparated at variou diflances,
or grouped in nimierDUS clufters, have, at their nMMoach,
as it were, ftarted intt exirtence; and fuch ampU ,. ovints
have been brought home concerning them and their inha-
bitants, as may ferve e\ ery ufeful purpofc of inquiry ; and,

• Bougainville, in 1 768, did no more than difcover that the land here was not con-
nefted, but compoled of iflands. C iptain Cook, in 1774, explored the whole group.
Sec Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 96.

w ;'
I i

lit

XIV

INTRODUCTION.

ords, who .bore fo conficlerable a

, ibave left little more to be done hi

to life Captain Cook's w
fliare in thole dilcoveries
that part *.•

3. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, had each of them con-
tributed toward increafing oiir knowledge of the illands
that exift in the Pacific Ocean, within the limits of the
Southern tropic; but how far that ocean reached to the
Weft, what lands bounded it on that fide, and the connec-
tion of thofe lands with the difcoveries of former naviga-
tors, was Hill the reproach of geographers, and remained
ablblutely unknown, till Captain Cook, during his firlt
voyage in 1770 +, brought back the moft fatisfadtory deci-
fion of this imiwrtant queftion. With a wonderful per-
fevcrance, and conlummate ikill, amidil an uncommon
combination of perplexities and dangers, he traced this
coaft near two thoufand miles, from the 38° of South lati-
tude, crofs the tropic, to its Northern extremity, within
lo° \ of the equino(ftial, where it was found to join the lands
already explored by the Dutch, in fevcral voyages from
their Afiatic fettlements, and to which they have given the
name of New Holland. Thofe difcoveries made in the lift
(entury, before Tafman's voyage, had traced the North
and the Weft coafts of this land ; and Captain Cook, by
his extenfive oi^erations on its Eaft fide, left little to be
done toward completing the full circuit of it. Between
Cape Hicks, in latitude 38°, where his examination of this
coaft began, and that part of Van Diemen's I>and, from
whence Tafman took his departure, was not above fifty-
five leagues. It was highly probable, therefore, that they
were connedtcd; though Captain Cook cautioufly fays, that
be could not determine whether his New South Wales, that is,

* Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239, t See Hawkcfworth's Collcdlion, Vol. iii

the

■f

INTRODUCTION.

3^V

■tSBP

the Eaft coaft of New Holland, joins to Van Diemen's Land,
or no ••. liut what was thus left undetermined by the ope-
rations of his firft voyage, was, in the courfe of his fecond,
foon cleared up ; Captain Furneaux, in the Adventure,
during his reparation from the Refolution (a fortimate re-
paration as it thus turned out) in 1773, having explored
Van Diemen's Land, from its Southern point, along the
Eait coaft, far beyond Tafman's rtation, and on to the lati-
tude 38°, where Captain Cook's examination of it in 1770
had commenced +.

It is no longer, therefore, a doubt, that we have nuw a
full knowledge of the whole circumference of this vaft
body of land, this fifth part of the world (if I may fo
fpeak), which our late voyages have difcovered to be of fo
amazing a magnitude, that, to ufe Captain Cook's words,
it is of a larger extent than any other country in the known
worldf that does not bear the name of a continent %,

4. Tafman having entered the Pacific Ocean, after leav-
ing Van Diemen's Land, had fallen in with a coaft to
which he gave the name of New Zealand. The extent of
this coaft, and its pofition in any dire(5tion but a part of its
Weft fide, m hich he failed along in his courfe Northward,
being left abfolutely unknown, it had been a favourite
opinion amongft geographers, fince his time, that New
Zealand was a part of a Southern continent, rinming North
and South, from the 33° to the 64° of South latitude, and
its Northern coaft ftretching crofs the South Pacific to an
immenfe diftance, where its Eaftern boundary had been
feen by Juan Fernandez, half a century before. Captain

* Hawkcfworth, Vol. iii. p. 483.
f Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 114.
X Hawkcfworth, Vol. iii. p. 627.

Cook's

i' I

III'

ii'

if.

■

'■y

xvi I N T Tx O D U C T I O N.

Cook's voyage in the Endeavour, has totally deftroyed this
luppqfition. Though Tafman mult ftill have the credit
of having firft feen New Zealand ; to Captain Cook folely
belongs that of having really explored it. He fpent near
fix months upon its coalls in 1769 and 1770*, circumna-
vigated it completely, and afcertained its extent and divi-
iion into two illands +, Repeated vifits fince that, have
]>erfcvfted this imjxjrtant difcovery, which though now
known to be no part of a Southern continent, will, proba-
bly, in all future charts of the world, be diftinguiflied as
the largeft illands that exift in that j^art of the Southern
hemifphcre.

5. Whether New Holland did or did not join to New
Guinea, was a queftion involved in much doubt and un-
certainty, before Captain Cook's failing between them,
through Endeavour Strait, decided it. We will not hefi-
tatc to call this an important acquifition to geography. For
though the great fagacity and extenfive reading of Mr.
Dalrymple, had difcovered fome traces of fuch a pafTage
having been found before |, yet thefe traces were fo ob-
fcure, and fo little known in the prefent age, that they had
not generally regulated the con(lru6tion of our charts ; the
Prelident dc Brolfts §, who wrote in 1756, and was well
verfed in geographical refeafdies, had not been able to

*ii\

* From OiSobcr 6, 1769, to March 31, 1770.

t Its Southern extremity nearly in latitude 47°, and its Northern in 34" J-. Sec Cap-
tain Cook's chart, in Hawkefworth, Vol. ii. p. 281.

X Sec tlie track of Torre, in one of Quiros's fhips, in 1606, between New Holland
and New Ciuinca, ujwn Mr. Dalrymple's Chart of Difcoveries in the South Pacific
Ocean, before 1764.

§ M. de Brofl'es fays of New Guinea: " C'eft une longue ifle, ou prefqu' ifle, fi elle
** touchc a la Nouvcllc HoUandc." Navi^citiom aux Terra Aujlraki-) Tom. i. p. 434.

fatisfy

;^i r!

INTRODUCTION.

fatisfy himfelf about them ; and Monf. de Eougainville, in
1768, who had ventured to fall in with the South coaft of
New Guinea, near ninety leagues to the Weftward of its
South Eail point, chofe rather to work thofe ninety leagues
direilly to windward, at a time when his people were in
fuch diftrefs for provifions as to ea.t the feal-lkins from off
the yards and rigging, than to run the rifk of finding a paf-
fage, of the exiftence of which he entertained the llrongeft
doubts, by pcrfevering in his Wefterly courfe ■•'■. Captain
Cook therefore in this part of his voyage (though he mo-
deflly difclaims all merit t), has cftabliflied, beyond future
controverfy, a fadt of elTential fcrvice to navigation, by
opening if not a new, at leaft an unfrequented and for-
gotten communication between the South Pacific and In-
dian Oceans.

6. One more difcovery, for which ^ve are indebted to
Captain Carteret, as fimilar in fome degree to that lafl
mentioned, may properly fucceed it, in this enumeration.
Dampier, in failing round what was fuppofed to be i>art of
the coafl of New Guinea, difcovered it to belong to a fepa-
rate iiland, to which he gave the name of New Britain.
But that the land which he named New Britain, fliould be
fub-divided again into two feparate large iflands, with many
fmaller intervening, is a point of geographical information,
which, if ever traced by any of the earlieft navigators of
the South Pacific, had not been handed down to the prefcnt
age : and its having been afcertained by Captain Carteret,

* " Le trifte etat ou nous etions reduits, lie nous permettoit de cherclier en faif.mt
" route a roueft, un pafTage au fud de la NouvcUc Ciuincc, qui nous frayat par le (}o!fc
" de la Carpcntcrie une route nouvellc et courtc aux iles Moluques. Run n'eloit « /<?
" vcritephu prohlhmitique que I'ty'ijhnce de ce fajfage." Voyage autour du Monde, p. 259.

f Hawkdworth, \'ol. iii. p. 660.

Vol. I. c deferves

xvn

xviii

INTRODUCTION.

W''

deferves to be mentioned as a difcovery, in the ftridleft fenfe
of the word ; a difcovery of the utmoft importance to na-
vigation. St. George's Channel, through which his Ihip
found a way, between New Britain and New Ireland, from
the Pacific into the Indian Ocean, to ufe the Captain's own
words *, " is a much better and ihorter paffage, whether
from the Eaftward or Weftward, than round all t&e illands
and lands to the Northward +.'*

The voyages of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret were prin-
cipally confined to a favourite objedt of difcovery in the
South Atlantic ; and though acceflions to geography were
procured by them in the South Pacific, they could do but
little toward giving the world a complete view of the con-
tents of that immenfe expanfe of ocean, through which they
only held a dire<Sl track, on their way homeward by the
Eaft-Indies. Cook, indeed, who was appointed to the con-
dudl of the fucceeding voyage, had a more accurate exa-
mination of the South Pacific intrufted to him. But as the
improvement of aftronomy went hand in hand, in his in-
ftru«5tions, with that of geography, the Captain's folicitude
to arrive at Otaheite time enough to obferve the tranjit of
Venus, put it out of his power to deviate from his direct
track, in fearch of unknown lands that might lie to the

* Hawkefworth, Vol. i. p. 563.

t The pofition of the Solomon Iflands, Mendana's celebrated difcovery, will no longer
remain a matter iit debate amongft geographers, Mr. Dalrymple having, on the moft fa-
dsfadlory evidence, proved, that they are the duller of iflands which comprizes what has
fince been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c. The great light thrown on that clufter
by Captain Carteret's difcovery, is a ftrong confirmation of this. See Mr. Dalrymple's
C'olle<Sion of Voyages, Vol. i. p. 16 — 21.

3 South

INTRODUCTION.

xix

Soath Eaft of that ifland. By this unavoidable attention to
his duty, a very confiderable part of the South Pacific, and
that part where the richeft mine of difcovery was fuppofed
to exift, remained unvifited and unexplored, during that
voyage in the Endeavour. To remedy this, and to clear
up a point, which, though many of the learned were con-
fident of, upon principles of fpeculative reafoning, and
many of the unlearned admitted, upon what they thought
to be credible teftimony, was ftill held to be very pro-
blematical, if not abfolutely groundlefs, by others who
were lefs fanguine or more incredulous ; his Majefty, al-
ways ready to forward every inquiry that can add to the
ftock of interefting knowledge in every branch, ordered
another expedition to be undertaken. The fignal fervices
performed by Captain Cook, during his firft voyage, of
which we have given the outlines, marked him as the fit-
teft perfon to finilh an examination which he had already
fo fkilfully executed in part. Accordingly, he was fent out
in 1772, with two fhips, the Refolution and Adventure,
upon the moft enlarged plan of difcovery known in the
annals of navigation. For he was inftrudled not only to
circumnavigate the globe, but to circumnavigate it in high
Southern latitudes, making fuch trayerfes, from time to
time, into every corner of the Pacific Ocean not before ex-
amined, a3 might finally and efFedlually refolve the much
agitated queftion about the exiftence of a Southern conti-
nent, in any part of the Southern hemifphere acceffible
by navigation.

The ample acceffions to geography, by the difcovery of
many iflands within the Tropic in the Pacific Ocean, in the
courfe of this voyage, which was carried on, with fingular
perfeverance, between three and four years, have been al-

c a ready

INTRODUCTION.

III "

ready ftated to the reader. But the general fearch no\r
made, throughout the whole Southern hemifphere, as be-
ing the principal objedl in view, hath been referved for
this feparatc article. Here, indeed, we are not to take
notice of lands that have been difcovered, but of feas fail-
ed through, where lands had been fuppoled to exift. In
tracing the route of theRefolution and Adventure, through-
out the South Atlantic, the South Indian, and the South
Pacific Oceans that environ the globe, and combining it
with the ro ite of the Endeavour, we receive what may be
called ocular demonftration, that Captain Cook, in his per-
fevering refearches, failed over many an extenfive conti-
nent, which, though fuppofed to have been feen by for-
mer navigators, at the approach of his Ihips, funk into the
bofom of the ocean, and, /i^e the bafelefs fabric of a vifion-,
left not a rack behind •'••. It has been urged, that the exift-

ence

;.r

f:;i

* It muft be obferved, however, that Monfieur le Monier, in the Memoirs of the
French Academy of Sciences for 1776, pleads for the exiftence of Cape Circumcifion,
feen by Bouvet in 1738, which our Englifh navigator fought for in vain, and fuppofes to
have been only an ifland of ice. Mr. Wales, in a paper read before the Royal Society,
very forcibly replied to M. le Monier's objedtions ; and the attack having been repeated,
he has drawn up a more extended defence of this part of Captain Cook's Journal, which
he hath very obligingly communicated, and is here infcrted.

jfrguments, tending to prove that Captain Cook fought for Cape Grcumcifton under the proper
Meridian ; and that the ObjeHions which have been made to his Conduit^ in this refpeiif are
not well founded^ ,

In the Memoirs of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris for 1776, printed in 1779,
]ld. Le Alonicr has made fome remarks, with a defign to (hew that Captain Cook fought
the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, in a wrong place ; and that, inftead of looking
for it under the meridian of 9° { or io° of Eaft longitude, he ought to have looked for it
under a meridian which is only 3°, or 3° \ to the Eaftward of the meridian of Green-
wich : and confequently that this land may cxift, notwithftanding all that has yet been

done

INTRODUCTION.

XXI

:i-

«,

[t-

the
on,
5 to
ety,
ted,
lich

optr
arc

ight
cing
or it
ecn-
tiecu
lone

cnce of a Southern continent is ncccffary to preferve an
equilibrium between the two hemifphercs. But however

plauilble

done to find it. M. Le Monier has alfo two additional .W-Tioirs on the fame fubje(5l, in
the volume fpr i779> occafioncd, as it appears, by fome objections wiiich have been made
to his former Memoir before the Academy. For Came reafoii or other, the Academy has
not thought proper to print the objeflions which have been made to M. Le Mon'm'^ hy-
pothefis } nor has he been particular enough in his two Memoirs, which reply to them,
to enable me to fay of what importance the objedlions are. I can only gather, that they
contain fome exceptions to the quantity by which M. Le Monier afTerts the variation al-
ters in 10° of longitude, under the parallel of 54° South ; and which, I conceive, has little
to do in the difpute.

Whether the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, exifts or not, is a point of fmall
importance to geography ; as the mod ftrenuous aflerters of its exiftence muft allow it to
be a very inconfiderable ifland, and of no ufe. This, therefore, is not, in itfelf, a matter
worthy of difpute : but, in aflerting this, M. Le Monier has, and I am forry to obferve it,
with fome afperity too, particularly in his fecond Memoir, endeavoured to cenfure the
judgment and conduft of Captain Cook, whofe memory I have every rcafon to revere, as
well as the judgment of thofe who were with him ; and on this account, I cannot help
feeling myfelf called on to explain the motives which induced Captain Cook to place no de-
pendence on the arguments, now adduced by M, Le Monier, in fupport of his fuppofition ;
and which, M. Le Monier muft know, were not unattended to, at that time, from what
the Captain has faid, p. 236. Vol. II. of his Account of the Voyage. And it may be
proper to obferve here, that what fell from Ctptain Cook, on tliis fuhjefl, was to fliew that
this circumftance was then attended to, and not to throw blame on M. Bouwt, for whofe
memory and abilities Captain Cook entertained great rcfpecl : nor is it incompatible widi
the utmoft refpedl, for a man to have a favourable opinion of his own labours ; or to en-
deavour to fhew why he thinks the difagreement between them and thofe of another per-
fon, when there is one, does not arife from an error committed by himfelf. There could,
therefore, be no occafion for M. Le Monier to exprefs himfelf fo harlhly,, as he has
done, in feveral parts of his fecond Memoir.

The fubftance of M Le Monier's argument is this. In. 1739, when AL Boimet's dif-
covery is fuppofed to have been made, the methods for determining tlie longitude of a
(hip at fea were very defe£live ; and, of coutfe, the longitude of any land which happenc-d
accidentally to be feen by one, was equally imcertain. On a prefumption that tliis was the
cafe with refpe<5l to Cape Circumcifion, AI. Le Aloni-r enquires into the quantity of the
variation of the magnetic needle, obferved by AI, Bouvet at that pL-ice ; and alio into ob-
fervations of the fame kind, made at other places in the n'.ighbourhood of it, about the

fame

I 't!l

-I i

xxU 1 N T H O D U C T 1 O N.

plaufiMc this theory may feem, at fkft iight, experience
has abundantly detedled its fallacy-. In confequence of

Captain

«nte time, as well as both before and finee. And, by compHuig AtSe 6b£trvatioai toge-
ther, he concludes, that at the time when Captain Cook iiaw in tbefe feas, Ac variation
•f the needle at Cape Circumcirton muft have been io° Wcfterly : wfaoreaa, in the moft
VVefterly point of Captain Cook's track, where he was iiifficiendy near the parallel of
54" South, to have feen land fitMat«d in it, the variation was 13° f Wcfterly. This dif-
ference of 3° I, in the variation, anfwers to about 7° of longitude, in this part of the pa-
rallel of 54° South : rnd by fo much did Captain Cook fall in with this parallel to the
Eaftward of what he ought to have done to iee the land in queftion. " Huice (M. Lc
« Monicr infers), that it is not furprizing the Britifh navigator fhould not find Cape
" Circumcirton under a meridian w4iich is 28° f to the Eadward of P'erro, when it if
" really fitiuted under a meridian which is but 21° { to the Eailward of it."

In replying to thefe allegations, I fluli, firft, Ihew, that, granting the dependence which
M. Le Mtmer fuppofes may be placed on obfervations of the variation made at fea, he
has ftated the quantity of the variation, obferved on board the Reiblution, very erro-
ncoufly.

Secofvlly, I fhall prove, beyond contradi£liou, that obfervations of the variation, made
at fea, cannot be depended on, for the purpofes to which M. Lt Mmitr has applied
them.

And, lafVly, that no material error had crept into M. Btuvet's reckoning ; but that if
any error did exifl, it muft have been of a contrary nature to that which M. Le Monitr
iuppofes.

That M. Lt Mtnitr has not given altogether a true reprefentation of the matter, will
appear from hence. On the i6th of February, at noon *, the Refolution was in latitude
54° Z^k' Soutl>i which is fuAciently near the parallel of S4° South, to fee high land, the
Northern extremity of which lies to the Southward of that parallel ; and at that time we
were in 6° Eaft of Greenwich, or 23° \ Eaft of die ifland of Ferro : that is, 4° i Id's
than is alfigned for our fituation by M. Lt Attnier. On tLe evening of the £une day,
the (hip being in latitude 54° 24', and longitude 6° 30', or 24° J Eaft of Ferro, the
variation was no more than t2° Y Weft, which alfo is near a degree and half le(s than
M. Lt Momer fays it was, when we firft arrived in a proper parallel for feeing Cape
Circumctfion. It is true, the next morning, in latitude 54° 21^'' South, longitude

8' e' Eaft,

• I here go by vhe dates in " The Original Aftronomical ObfervationJ," printed by or-
der of the Board of Longitude ; which, after the 14th of February 1775, diifer oae day
(roQ Captaia Cook'* datci.

INTRODUCTION.

xxiu

Captain Cook's voyage, now under confideration, we have
a thorough knowledge of the ftate of the Southern hemi-

fphere,

8° 6^ Eaft, we had 13* 42' Weft variation ; but this was after wc had run more than
two degrees within fight of the parallel of 54° South. It is, moreover, highly pro-
bable, that both thefe variations were loo great ; for, on the 1 7th, in the evening, lati-
tude 54° 35^ South, and longitude 9° 20' Kaft ; that is, t" ^ more to the Eaflward, aid
after we had run 3°! on the parallel wc were then on, the variation was no more than
13° i(/ Weft. It is alfo worthy of remark, that on the 14th, in the evening, latitude
56° 14!'' South, and longitude 4° 50' Eaft, which is but 1° 10' to the Wcftward of the
point, where the Reiolution came firft into a proper fltuatidn to fee land, fituated in th«
parallel of 5,^° South, the variation obfervod was no more than 6° 50' Weft. And we
may further add, that on the ift of March, 1 774, the Adventure had no more than 1%" i
Weft variation, though flie was then confiderably both to the Northward and Eaftward
of our fttuation on the 17th of P'ebruary in the morning, on both which accounts the va-
riation ought to have been greater, inftead of a whole degree lefs. From all thefe cir-
cumftances, there can be little doubt but that the two variations, obferved by us on the
1 6th and 17th of February, were too great; or that the variation, at the point where the
Refolution firft came fuificiently near the parallel of 54° South, to fee land, the Northern
extremity of which is fituated in that parallel, could not be more than 1 1° | Weft, inftead
of 1 3° f , as AI. Le Monitr has reprefented it.

Under this head of enquiry I may alfo obferve, that although the Refolution was to«
much to the Southward of the parallel of 54° South, when (he crofled the meridian which
is 21° I to the Eaftward of Ferro; that is, 3°^ Eaft of Greenwich, the longitude which
M. Le Monier afligns for Cape Circumcifion, to fee it, if it had been in that fituation ; yet,
her confort, the Adventure, was for feveral degrees on each fide of that meridian ; and
cfpecially when (he had 10° J of Weft variation, full as near to the parallel of 54° South,
as M. Beuvet was to the land when he faw it • : and on the day that flie aiftually paflcd
that meridian, had fine clear weather f. Hence, therefore, granting M. Le Monier his
own arguments, which, however, I have proved to be erroneous ; and that obfervations
made at fea, for the variation of the compafs, may be depended on for the purpofc of find-
ing the longitude, it is utterly impoflible that both the Refolution and Adventure could
have paffed Cape Circumcifion without feeing it. But I fhall now fliew, that thefe ob-
fervations are liable to a much greater error than the whole quantity, fo rigoroufly infilled
«n by this gentleman.

I will

• See The Original Aftronomical Obfcrvationi, p. 185, and Bouvet'i Voyage, publilhed
by Mr. Dalrymple, p. 4, and 11.
t See the Obfervations, p. 218.

1(1

xxiv INTRODUCTION.

fphcrc, and can pronounce with certainty, that the equili-
hriiim of the globe is effecSlually preferved, though the

proiwrtion

I will not h«rc nin the ri(k of incurring M. Lt Aionitr't difpleafure, by calling the ac-
curacy of M. Hoifvtt's obfervations in (jiicftion ; but will admit every thing that he him-
telf can think due to the inftruments and obfervations of that defcrving navigator. It ia
enough for my argument, and it is but too evident, from the obfervations themfelves, that
eurs were bv no means capable of determining the variation to fo fmall a quantity as that
which AL Lt Monier reds his whole caufe upon j and if fo, his arguments, which depend
wholly on a fup(iofition, that not only they, but M. Boinxi'i alfo, were capable of deter-
mining it with the utmoft exaftnefs, muft fall to the ground.

iff, It app«ars, from various indances, that the variations obfcrved by the fame com-
pafs would differ 3° to 5', 6°, and fometimes even 10°, from no other caufc whatever, but
putting the fhip's head a contrary way •

2d, That the fame compafs, in the fan. ' fituation in every rcfpe£l, within a few miles,
but at two different times of the fame d;./^ -vould give variations differing from one ano-
ther, 3", 4», 5^ 6°, and even 7° \.

3d, That the fame compafs, on the fame day, and in the hands of the fame obfcrver,
will give variations differing from one another by 5°, on board the fame (hip, when under
fail, and when at anchor in a road-dead %.

4th, Compaffcs, made by the fame artirt, at the fame time and place, but on board dif-
ferent (hips, differed 3°, 4°, and even 5° in the variation §.

Sth, 'I'he fame Compaffcs, on board the fame (hip, and within a few miles of the fame
fltua«ion, but atdifferen' •imes of our being there, gave vari.itions differing by 4° and 5",
t>r upwards ||.

6th, Different

• See the Oricinal Aftronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage, March 11,
•773' P- -7»: Janu.iry 24, 1774, p. 375. and July 28, p. 378.

t Obfervations in the fecond Voyage, February 2, 1773, p. 37!. and January 19, 1775,
p. 382. Alfo Obfervations in hil Voyage. Jul/ 17, 1776, p. 179. Auguft 30, p. 181.
January 24, 1777, p. 192. and Septcmbt-r 15, 1778, p. 20;.

\ Altronomical obfervations of (ccond Voyage, July 14, 177;, P- 38;.

§ Compare the Allroiioniical Obfervations, made in tlie fecond Voy.ige, Auguft 3, and g,
and September 4, 1772, p. 181. with thofe of the fame dates, p. 369. Thoi'c of January
II, and 14, and February 7, 1773, p. 182, with thofe of the fame dates, p. 371. Alfo
Allionomical Obfervations, made in the lall Vi)yaj;;e, of December 27, 1776, p. 191. Fe-
i>ruary 22, 177!^, p. 201. May 5, and 8, p. 102. July 9, and 24, 1779, p. 209. and
January 16, 1780, p. 212. with tliofe of the fame dates, p. 291, 293, 294, 297,
Hnd 298.

II Compare Aftronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voy.igc, February 10, n. 37^.
with Obfervations of December 11, 1774, p. 3iii. Alfo Obfervations, nude in tiK- lilt
Voyage, May 3, and June iS, 1779, p. 20X.

I' I

INTRODUC ion

XXV

II.

d (J.
uiai V

Alfo
Fe-
anil

=9;.

l)ioportion of fca ailually failed through, leaves no fiif-
fiticnt fi)acc for the corrcfponding iii il's ot land, which,

6th, DifTtrent compadbs, at the fame time, on board the fame fliiis and in cvevy re-
(j)cd under tlic fame circumftanccs, will give variations diftcring from one another, 3%
+', 5°, and 6'^ •.

Thcfc dift'crcnces, feveral of which happened very near the place in qucftion, arc all of
them at leaft equal to, mod of them much greater, and fome of them double that which
Af. Lt Mmicr founds his argument on, even according to his own account of it, which I
have already (hewn is by no means admilFible ; and, therefore, totally invalidate it. To
allege that the inftruments made u^ of in Captain Cook's two voyages were bad, or that
the obfervers were not expert in the ufe of them, will anfwcr no purpofe : they are the
inftruments and obfervers which M, Le Mmier'i argument muft reft on ; ajid, therefore,
let thofc of the French, or any other navigator, have been ever fo much better than they
were (which few will be hardy enough to aflert, and fewer ftill found weak, enough to
believe), it will avail nothing to the point in difpute, which muft evidently fall to the
ground, if the obfervations made for finding the variation in Captain Cook's voyage arc
oot fufficient to fupport it. What then muft become of it, if M, Bmwi-t's obfcrvations,
of this kiiul, were liable to .in equal, or a greater error ? which, without any rcafonablc
caufe for oftence, we might fuppofe tlicy were.

It is not necelfary to account for thefe dift'crcnces in the obferved variations in this
place, nor yet to point out tlie rcafons why fuch anomalies have not been noticed in ob-
fcrvations of this kind before. I (hall, however, remark, that I have hinted at fome of
the caufcs in my introdui5lion to the obfcrvations which were made in Captain Cook's
fccoml voyage ; and many others will readily oftcr themfelves to pcrfons who have had
much praiStice in making tliufc obfcrvations, and who have attentively conftdercd the
principles on wliich the inftruments arc conftruifteii, and the manner jn which they are
fabricated. Nor is it at all furprizing, that the errors to which the inftruments and ob-
fcrvations of this kind are liable, (hould not have been difcovered before, fmcc no navi-
gators before us ever gave the fame opportunity, by multiplying their obfcrvations, and
making them under fuch a variety of circumftances as we did.

Having now fully fliewn, that the circumftances, brought forward by A/. Le Motit-r,
in fupport of his ar;^ument, arc ncithci- fuch as can be depended on, nor yet fairly rcnre-

ftnttil

• Obfcrvations made ia the fccond Voyaee, February 2, 1773, p. 371. March 18, p.
372. and January 24, 1774, p- 375' Ste alfo Obfcrvations made iall Voyage, Augull 18,
1776, p. iSo. Oaolicr 7, tirid 14, p. i8g, and igo. December 12, p. ibid. Jiuuary
24, 1777, p. 192. March 10, p. 193. July 9, and 17, 1779, p. 203. January 16, 178^,
p. 212. iVlaich 24, p. 213. and M.iy 19, p. 214.

Vol . I, d

XXVI

INTRODUCTION.

i M

on fpcculative arguments,
celTary >.

liad been muintaineil to be ne-

ftntcd, I (hall next attempt to dcmonftratf, that it is utterly improbable M. Houvct.
could be out, in his account of longitude, fo much as is hiTc fupjuifcJ, in the fliort run
which had been made fumi the ifland of St. Catherine, the place they took their depar-
ture from ; on the contrary, that there is fufHcient reafon to believe the error, of what-
ever miignitude it might be, was of a different n.iture from that contended fur, and that
the two (hips, inftead of being to the W'eftward of their account of longitude, were ac-
tually to the Eaftward of it. For, according to their Journals, cxtrai5\ed from the archivci
of the French Fall India Company, by At. D'Aprn, printed under his inlpciSlion, and
publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple, F. R. S. amongll other voyages made for the purpofe of
examining the Southern parts of the Atlantic Ocean, the longitude, according to the
Ragle's run from St. Catherine's, was 26" 27', and according to the Mary's, 26° 20'
Eaft of 'rencriff; that is, t/ 57', and 9° 50' Fall of Greenwiih, or 27° 43', and 27'
36' Eaft of Ferro. But the Mary, which went to the Cape of (lood Hoik, made 7" 1/
Eaft longitude from the land in qucftion, to that place. Confequently, the C«pe of Good
Hope being in longitude 18° 23' Eaft of (Jrecnwich, CajH- Circumcifion will be in ii'
10' Eaft of Greenwich, or 1° 2c/ more to tlie Faftward than the run by the dime (hip
from the ifland of St. Catherine's makes it. Again, the Eagle made the difference of
longitude between Cape Circumcifion, and the ifland of Rodrigucs, 49' 44'; and by the
obfervations of M. Pi'i^re, this ifland is in 62° 50' of F.aft longitude from Green-
wich : Cape Circumcifion is therefore in 13° 6' Eaft of Greenwich, or 2° 9' more to
the Eaftward than by the F.igle's run from St. Catherine's. Hence, therefore, as tlic
longitude of this land, rcfulting from a comparifon of that (hewn by each of the (hips,
on their making land at places where the longitude is exceedingly well determined, is
greater than that which refults from their run from St. Catherine's, the longitude of
which is not known with certainty within fevcral degrees, we may infer, with great
fafety, that whatever the quantity of M. Bouvet's error might be, when he is fuppofed to
have feen Cape Circumcifion, it muft have been in defcdl, and not in cxcefs, as AT. Le
Menier fuppofes it.

,ni :*

Christ's Hospital,'

April 20, 1784. [

W. WALES.

• The judgment of the ingenious Author of R/cht-ri'k-sfur Ics jfnuricairts, on this qucf-
tion, fcems to be very deltrving (>( a pl.ice here : " Qii'on calcule, comme on voudra,
" on fera toujours contraint d'avoucr, qu'il y a une plus grande portion dc continent
" fitute dam la latitude Icptentrionalc, que dans la latitude auftralc.

«C'eft

INTRODUCTION.

xxvu

If fornicr navigators luvc added more land to the known
^lobe than Captain Cook, to him, at leall, was rclcrvcd the
honour of being forcmoft in dillloling to us the extent of
ica that covers its lurfatc. His own fummary view of the
tranfadlions of this voyage, will be a proper tonclulion to
thcl'c remarks : " I had now made the circuit of the South-
*» ern Ocean in a high latitude, and traverfed it in fuch
" a manner as to leave not the leait room for there being
" a continent, unlefs near the pole, and o\it of the reach
" of navigation. By twice vifiting the Tropical Sea, 1 had
" not only fettled the iituation of Ibmc old difcoveries,
*' but made there many new ones, and left, I conceive,
« very little to be done, even in that part. Thus 1 flatter
" myfelf, that the intention of the voyage has, in every re-

IpeJt, been fully anfwered ; the Southern hemifphere
*' lufTiciently explored ; anil a final end put to the fearch-
" ing after a Southern continent, which has, at times, en-
" groffed the attention of fome of the Maritime Powers
" for near two centuries pad, and been a favourite theory
" amongll the geographers of all ages *."

Thus far, therefore, the voyages to difclofe new tracks
of navigation, and to reform old defe(5ls in geography, ap-
pear to have been profecutcd with a fatisfa<5lory fliare of
fuccefs. A perufal of the foregoing fummary of what had

« C'eft fort mal a-propos, qu'on a foutenu que cette repartition iiitgale ne fauroit cx-
« iftcr, fous pretextc que le globe pcrdroit ("on equilibre, faute d'un contrepoids fuffifant
" au pole meridionulc. II elt vrai qu'un pied cube d'eau falee ne pefe pas autant qu'uii
" pied cube de terre j mais on auroit du rcfltichir, qu'il peut y avoir fous I'ocean dts lits
" & dcs couches de matiircs, dont la pef.inleur fpccifique varic a Tinfini, & que Ic pcu
" de profondeur d'unc mcr, verfec fur une grande fiirface, contrebalance Ics ciidroits im il
" y a mollis de mer, mais oii elle eft plus profonde." — Rechcrches Phihfiphlqucs, Tom. ii.
r- 375-

' Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239.

3 been

XXVIU

INTRODUCTION.

lit

1^ ; > <i

!| 'ii:

■I :f):

'. i

been done, will enable every one to judge what was ftill
wanting- to complete the great plan of difcovery. The
Southern hemifphere had, indeed, been repeatedly vifited,
and its iitmoft acceffible extremities been furveyed. But
much uncertainty, and, of courfe, great variety of opinion,
fubfirted, as to the navigable extremities of our own hemi-
-fphere ; particularly, as to the exiitence, or, at leall, as to
the pradlicability of a Northern paflage between the Atlan-
tic and Pacific Oceans, either by failing Eaftward, round
Alia, or Weftward, round North America.

It was obvious, that if fuch a paffage could be effedled,
voyages to Japan and China, and, indeed, to the Eaft Indies
in general, Asould be much fhortened ; and confequently
become more proiitable, than by making the tedious circuit
of the Cape of Good Hope. Accordingly, it became a fa-
vourite objetSl of the Englifli to efFedluate this, above two
centuries ago ; and (to fay nothing of Cabot's original at-
tempt, in 1497, which ended in the difcovery of Newfound-
land, and the Labradore coaft) from Frobiflier's firft voyage
to find a Wcftern paffage, in 1576, to thofe of James and of
Fox, in 1 63 1, repeated trials had been made by our enter-
prizing adventurers. But though farther knowledge of the
Northern extent of America was obtained in the courfe of
thefe voyages, by the difcovery of Hudfon's and Baffin's
Bays, the wiflied-for i^aflTage, on that fide, into the Pacific
Ocean, was ftill iinattained. Our countrymen, and the
Dutch, were equally unfuccefsful, in various attempts, to
find this pallage in an Eaftern dirc(5tion. Wood's failure,
In 1O76, Iccms to have clofed the long lift of unfortunate
Northern expeditions in that century ; and the difcoveiy,
if not abfolutely defi>aired of, by having been fo often
miffed, ceafed, for many years, U) be fought for.

if:

:;:!;! J

INTRODUCTION.

xxix

Mr. Dobbs, a warm advocate for the probability of a
North Weft paflhgc through Hudfon's Bay, in our own time,
once more recalled the attention of this country to that un-
dertaking ; and, by his adtive zeal, and perfevering folici-
tation, renewed the fpirit of difcovcry. But it was renewed
in vain. For Captain Middleton, fent out by Government
in 174I) and Captains Smith and Moore, by a private fociety,
in 1746, though encouraged by an a<ft of Parliament paffed
in the preceding year, that annexed a reward of twenty
thoufand pounds to the difcovery of a pafTage, returned
from Hudfon's Bay with reports of their proceedings, that
left the accomplifliment of this favourite objedl at as great
a diftance as ever.

When refearches of this kind, no longer left to the foli-
citation of an individual, or to the fubfcriptions of private
adventurers, became cherifhed by the Royal attention, in
the prefent reign, and wai'mly promoted by the Miniiler at
the head of the naval department, it was impoflible, while
fo much was done toward exploring the remoteft corners of
the Southern hemifphere, that the Northern paffage fliould
not be attempted. Accordingly, while Captain Cook was
profecuting his voyage toward the South Pole, in 1773,
Lord Mulgrave failed with two fliips, /o determine how far
navigation ivas praSiicable toward the North Pole. And
though his Lordlhip met with the fame infuperable bar to
his progrefs, which former navigators had experienced *,
the hopes of opening a communication between the Pacific
and Atlantic Oceans, by a Northerly courfe, were not aban-

* See the hiftory of former attempts to fail toward the North Pole, in the IntroJuiilion
to Lord Mulgravc's Journal. Mr. Harrington has coUedled feverid iiiftances of ihips
advaacing to very high latitudes. See his Mifcellanics, p. i. — 124.

doned :

XXX

INTRODUCTION.

doncd ; and a voyage for that purpofe, was ordered to be
undertaken.

The operations propofed to be pxirfued, were fo new, fo
extenfive, and lb various, that the fkill and experience of
Captain Cook, it was thought, would be requifite tr. condu<Sl
them. Without being hable to any ' '^arge of want of zeal
for the public fervice, he might have pafled the reft of his
days in the command to which he had been appointed in
Greenwich I lofpital, there to enjoy the fame he had dearly
earned in two circumnavigations of the world. But he
cheerfully relinquiflied this honourable ftation at home ;
and, happy that the Earl of Sandwich had not caft his eye
upon any other Commander, engaged in the condudl of the
expedition, the hiftory of which is prefented to the Public
in thefc Volumes; an expedition that would expofe him to
the toils and perils of a third circumnavigation, by a track
hitherto unattempted. Every former navigator round the
globe had made his j^aflage home to Europe by the Cape
of Good Hope ; the arduous taflc was now alligned to Cap-
tain Cook, of attempting it, by reaching the high Northern
latitudes betwen Alia and America. So that the ufual plan
of difcovery was revcrfed ; and, inftcad of a paffage from
the Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the for-
mer was to be tried. For it was wifely forefeen, that what-
ever openings or inlets there might be on the Eaft fide of
America, which lie in a diredlion that could give any hopes
of a pafTage, the ultimate fuccefs of it would ftill depend
\ipon there being an open fea between the Weft fide of
that continent, and the extremities of Afia. Captain Cook,
therefore, was ordered to proceed into the Pacific Ocean,
through the chain of his new ifiands in the Southern tropic,
and having crolfed the equator into its Nortlicrn Parts, then
I to

INTRODUCTION.

to hold fuch a courfe as might probably fix many interell-
ing points in geography, and produce intermediate difco-
veries, in his progrefs Northward to the principal fcene of
his operations.

But the plan of the voyage, and the various objedls it em-
braced, will beft appear from the Inftru(5lions binder which
Captain Cook failed ; and the infertion of them here, will
convey fuch authentic information, as may enable the Read-
er to judge with precifion how far they have been carried
into execution.

XXXI

-1

By the Commiss!Oners for executing the Office of Lord
High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c.

SECRET INSTRUCTIONS for Captain James
Cook, Commander of liis Majefty's Sloop the Reso-
lution.

TJr/'HEREAS the Earl of Sandwich has ftgnified to us his Majefty's plea-
fure, that an attempt Jhould be made to find out a Northern pajfage by
fea from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean j and whereas we have, in purfuance
thereof catifed his Majefty's ftoops Refolution and Di/covery to be fitted, in all
refpeSis, proper to proceed upon a voyage for the purpofe above-mentioned, and,
from the experience we have had of your abilities and good conduSl in your late
voyages, have thought fit to intruft you with the conduSt of the prefent intended
voyage, and with that view appointed you to command the firft mentioned floop,
and direEled Captain Gierke, who commands the other, to follow your orders for
his further proceedings -, 2'ou are hereby required and direEled to proceed with the
faid two ftoops direaly to the Cape of Good Hope, unlefs you Jhall judge it necef-
fary to flop at Madeira, the Cape de Verd, or Canary I/lands, to take in wine for
the ufe of their companies ; in which cafe you are at liberty to do fo, taking care
to remain there no longer than may be neccjfary for that purpofe.

^*%i

xxxii INTRODUCTION.

On your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to rcfrejh thejloops com-
f antes y and to cauje thejloops to bejupplicd with as much provi/ions and water as
they can conveniently Jiow.

ToH are, if pojfille, to leave the Cape of Good Hope ly the end of OSloher, or
the beginning of November next, and proceed to the Southward in fearch of/omt
iflands faid to have been lately fcen by the French, in the latitude of \%'' d Souths
and about the meridian of Mauritius, In cafe you find thcje iflands, you are to
examine them thoroughly for a good harbour -, and upon difcovering one, make the
necejlafy obfervations to facilitate the finding it again ; as a good port, in that
fituation, may hereafter prove very iifeful, although it f.wuld afford little ornotbing
liiore than fhelter, wood, and water, Tou are not, however, to fpend too much
time in Jacking cut for thofe iflands, cr in the examination of them, if found, but
proceed to Otaheite, or the Society Ifles (touching at New Zealand in your way
thither, if you JJjould judge it neceJJ'ary and convenient J, and taking care to ar-
rive there time enough to admit of your giving thejloops companies the refrejh-
ment they may fland in need of, before you profecute the farther objeSl of thefe
inflr unions.

Upon your arrive, ! at Otaheite, cr the Society IJles, you are to land Omiah at
fuch of them as he m ly choofe, and to leave him there.

Tou are to diflribute among the Chiefs of thofe iflands fuch part of the pre-
Jcnts with which you have beenfupplied, as ycu Jhall judge proper, referving the
remainder to diflribute among the natives of the countries you may dif cover in the
Northern Hemifphere : And having refref}:ed the people belonging to thejloops un-
deryour command, and taken on board Juch wood and water as they may refpec-
tively fland in need of, you are to leave thofe iflands in the beginning of February,
vrjooner if you Jhall judge it neceffary, and then proceed in as direSl a courfe as
you can to the coafl of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the latitude
c/"45°o' North; and taking care, in your way thither, not to lofe any time in
fearch of new lands, cr to fop at any you may fall in with, unlejs you find it »£'
ceffary to recruit your weed and water.

You are alfo, in your way thither, firiHly enjoined not to touch upon any part
of the Spanip dominions on the Weft em continent of America, unlcfs driven thi-
ther by Jome unavoidable accident ; in whith cafe ycu are to ft ay no longer there
than Jhall be abjolutely neceffary, and to be very careful not to give any umbrage
or offence to any of :he inhalitauts cr fubje£ls of his Catholic Majefty. And if

.if

^■ii

INTRODUCTION.

XXXlll

in your farther progre/s to the Northward, as hereafter direUed, you find any
fnbjells of any European Prince or State upon any part of the coaft you may think
proper to vifit, you are not to dijlurb them, or give them any jujl caufe of offence,
but, on the contrary, to treat them with civility and friendfioip.

Upon your arrival on the coaft of New Albion, you are to- put into the firft con-
venient port to recruit your wood and water, and procure refreftjments, and then,
to proceed Northward along the coaft, as far as the latitude 0/65", or farther,
if you are not obftrutled by lands or ice \ taking care not to lofe any time in ex-
ploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, until you get into the before-
mentioned latitude of dc^'', where we could wifl) you to arrive in the month of June
next. fVhen you get that length, you are very carefully to fearch for, and to
explore, fuch rivers or inlets as may appear to be of a conftderable extent, and
pointing towards Hudjon's or Baffin's Bays ; and if , from your own obfervations,
or from any information you may receive from the natives (who, there is reajon
to believe, are the fame race of people, andfpeak the fame language, of which you
are furnifhed with a Vocabulary, as the Efquimaux), there ftjall appear to be a
certainty, or even a probability, of a water paffage into the afore-mentioned bays,
or either of them, you are, in fuch cafe, to ufe your utmoft endeavours to pafs
through with one or both of thefloops, unlefs you fhall be of opinion that tbe paf-
fage may be effeEled with more certainty, or with greater probability, by fiv.aller
veffels ; in which cafe you are to fet up the frames of one or both tbe f mall
veffels with which you are provided, and, when they are put together, and are
properly fitted, ftored, and viElualled, you are to difpatch one or both of them, un-
der the care of proper officers, with afufficient number of petty officers, men, and
boats, in order to attempt the faid paffage ; with fuch inftruSiions for their re-
joining you, if they fliQuld fail, or for their farther proceedings, if they fiouldfuc-
ceed in the attempt, as you floall judge moft proper. But, neverthelefs , if you
/hall find it more eligible to purfue any other meafures than thofe above pointed
out, in order to make a di/covery of the before-mentioned pajfage (if any fuch
there be), you are at liberty, and we leave it to your difcretion, to purfue fuch
meafures accordingly.

In cafe you ftjall befatisfied that there is no pajfage through to the above-men-
tioned bays,fufficient for the purpofes of navigation, you are, at the proper feafon
of the year, to repair to the port of St. Peter and St. Paul in Kamtfchatka, or
wherever clfe you ftjall judge more proper, in order to ref reft} your people and pafs

Vol. I. c the

(I i

•?-

•li' t

,.1't'-

xxxiv INTRODUCTION.

(be If inter -, and, in the Spring of the enfuingyear ij-^i, to proceed from tbciue
to the Northward, as far as, in your prudence, you may think proper, in further
fearch of a North Eajl, or North Wefi pajfage, from the Pacific Ocean into thi
.■■Itlantic Ocean, or the North Sea ; and if, from your own obfervation, or any in-
formation you may receive, there fhall appear to be a probability offuch a pajfage,
you are to proceed as above directed : and, having difcovered fuch pajfage, or failed
in the attempt, make the befi of your way back to England, by fuch route as yoit
may think befi for the improvement of geography and navigation ; repairing ta
Spithead with bothfloops, where they are to remain till further order.

At whatever places you may touch in the courje of your voyage, where accurate
cbJervatit,Ks of the nature hereafter mentioned have not already been made, you
are, as far as your time will allow, very carefully to objerve the true Jituation of
fuch places, both in latitude and longitude ; the variation of the needle j bearings
of head-lands ; height, direSlion, and courje of the tides and currents j depths
and foundings of thefea ; Jhoals, rocks, &c. ; and alfo to furvey, make charts^
and take views of fuch bays, harbours, and different parts of the coafl, and to
make fuch notations thereon, as may be ufeful either to navigation or commerce.
Tou are alfo carefully to objerve the nature of the foil, and the produce thereof i
the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it j the fifties that are to be found
in the rivers or upon the coafl, and in what plenty ; and, in cafe there are any
peculiar to Juch places, to dejcribe them as minutely, and to make as accurate
drawings of them, as y. « can : and, if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable
ftones, or any extraneous foj/ils, you are to bring home Jpecimens of each j as alfo
of the feeds of Juch trees, fisrubs, plants, fruits, and grains, peculiar to thoje
places, as you may be able to colleSl, and to tranjmit them to our Secretary, that
proper examination and experiments may be made of them. Tou are likewife to
cbferve the genius, temper, difpofition, and number of the natives and inhabitantSy
where you find any ; and to endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friend-
fiiip with them ; making them prefents offuch trinkets as you may have on board,
and they may like befi -, inviting them to traffic ; and fhewing them every kind of
civility and regard; but taking care, never tbelefs, not to fuffer yourfelf to be fur -
prized by them, but to be always on your guard againft any accidents.

Tou are alfo, with the conjent of the natives, to take poffeffion, in the name of
the King of Great Britain, of convenient fituations in Juch countries as you may
dijcover, that have not already been dijcevered or vifiled by any other European

power ;

INTRODUCTION.

XXXV

:t:^.

power ; and to dijlribute among the inbabitanls fucb things as will remain as
traces and teftimonies of your having been there; but if you find the countries fi
dif covered are uninhabited, you are to take pojfeffxon of them for his Majejiy, by
fetting up proper marks and infcriptions, asfirft difcoverers and pojftjfors.

But forafmuch as, in undertakings of this nature yf ever al emergencies may arife
not to be forefeen, and therefore not particularly to be provided for by inJlruSlions
before-hand \ you are, in all fuch cafes, to proceed as you Jhall judge mofl ad-
vantageous to thefervice on which you are employed.

Tou are, by all opportunities, to fend to our Secretary, for our information,
accounts of your proceedings, and copies ofthefurveys and drawings you Jhall have
made -, and upon your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to this
office, in order to lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole courfe
of your voyage \ taking care, before you leave tbefloop, to demand from the officers
and petty officers, the log-books and journals they may have kept, and tofealthem
up for our infpeSlion j and enjoining them, and the whole crew, not to divulge
where they have been, until they Jhall have permiffionfo to do: and you are to di-
reSi Captain Gierke to do the fame, with refpeil to the officers, petty officers, and
crew of the Difcovery.

If any accident Jhould happen to the Rejolution in the courfe of the voyage, fs
as to dif able her from proceeding any farther, you are, in fuch cafe, to }-emove
yourfelf and her crew into the Difcovery, and to profecute your voyage in her -, her
Commander being hereby Jlri£lly required to receive you on board, and to obey
your orders, the fame, in every refpeEt, as when you were ablually on board the
Rejolution: And, in cafe of your inability, by ficknefs or otherwife, to carry
thefe InJlruilions into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with the
next officer in command, who is hereby required to execute them in the bejl man^
ner be can.

Given under our hands the 6th day of July, 1776,

By command of their Lordjhips,

SANDIVICH.
C. SPENCER.
H. PALLISER.

PH. STEPHENS.

e 2

Befides

xxxvi INTRODUCTION.

Befidcs ordering Captain Cook to fail on this important
voyage, (Government, in earnelt about the object of it,
adopted a meafvu'e, which, while it could not but have a
powerful operation on the crews of the Relbhition and Dif-
covery, by adding the motives of interel^, to the obligations
of duty; at the lame time encouraged all his Majetty's Tub-
Je(fts to engage in attempts toward the projjofed dilVovery.
By the adl of parliament, pafled in 1745 -, a reward of
twenty thoufand pounds had been held out. But it had been
held out only to the Ihips belonging to any of his Maje/lfs
Jubje&Sj exclufive of his Majefty's own (hips. The adl had
a ftill more capital defeat. It held out this reward only to
fuch fliips as fhould difcover a paffage through Hudfon's Bay\
and, as we fliall foon take occafion to explain, it was, by this
time, pretty certain, that no fuch paflage exifted within thofe
limits. Effectual care was taken to remedy both thefe de-
fe(5ls, by palling a new law ; which, after reciting the pro-
vifions of the former, proceeds as follows : ** And whereas
" many advantages, both to commerce and fcience, may be
*' alfo expedled from the difcovery of any Northern pajfage
" for vefTels by fea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans
" — be it enacSled, That if any fliip belonging to any of his
** Majefty's fubjedls, or to bis Majejly^ lliall find out, and
" fail through, any paflage by fea, between the Atlantic
" and Pacific Oceans, in any dire&iony or parallel of the
" Northern hemifphere, to the Northward of the 52° of
" Northern latitude, the owners of fuch fliips, if belonging
" to any of his Majefty's fubjedls, or the commander^ officers,
" and feamen, offuchPsip belonging to his Majejly, Ihall re-
" ceive, as a reward for fuch difcovery, the fum of twenty
" thoufand pounds.

* Sec the Statutes at Large, 18 George II. chap. 17.

« And

W ^-1

INTRODUCTION.

xxxvii

« And whereas Ihips employed, both in the Spitzbergen
" Seas, and in Davis's Straits, have frequent opportunities
" of approaching the North Pole, though they have not
" time, during the courfe of one fummer, to penetrate into
" the Pacific Ocean : and whereas fuch approaches may
" greatly tend to the difcovery of a communication between
" the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, as well as be attended
" with many advantages to commerce and fcience, &c. be
" it enacted, That if any fliip fliall approach to within i"
" of the North Pole, the owner, Sec. or commander, 8cc.
" fo approaching, fliall receive, as a reward for fuch firft
" approach, the fimi of five thoufand pounds •'•■."

That nothing might be omitted that could facilitate the
fuccefs of Captain Cook's expedition, fome time before he
failed, in the beginning of the fummer of 1776, Lieutenant
Pickerfgill, appointed Commander of his Majefty's armed
brig the Lion, was ordered " to proceed to Davis's Straits,
" for the protedlion of the Britifli whale fiflicrs ;" and that
firft obje<St being fecured, " he was then required and di-
" reded to proceed vip Baflin's Bay, and explore the coafts
" thereof, as far as in his judgment the fame could be done
" without apparent rilk, taking care to leave the above
" mentioned Bay fo timely, as to fecure his return to Eng-
« land in the fall of the year ;" and it was farther enjoined
to him, " to make nautical remarks of every kind, and to
" employ Mr. Lane (Matter of the veflTel under his com-
" mand) in furveying, making charts, and taking views of
" the feveral bays, harbours, and different parts of the coaits
" which he might vifit, and in making fuch notations there-
on as might be ufeful to geography and navigation +."

* See the Statutes at Large, 1776, 16 Getjrge III. chap. 6.
{ From his MS. Inftrudtions, dated May 14, 1776.

Pickerfgill,

((

xxxvni

INTRODUCTION.

\\\ I [

I '

Pickerfgill, wc fee, was not to attempt the difcovery of
the paffage. He was diredled to explore the coalh of Baf-
fin's Bay, only to enable him to bring back, the fame year,
fome information, which might be an ufeful dire«5tion to-
ward planning an intended voyage into that bay the en-
fuing fummer, to try for the difcovery of a paflage on that
lide, with a view to co-operate with Captain Cook ; who,
it was fupix)fed (from the tenor of his inftrudtions) would
be trying for this paflage, about the fame time, from the
oppofite fide of America.

Pickerfgill, obeying his inftruiSlions, at lead in this in-
flancc, did return that year ; but there were fufficient rea-
ions for not fending him out again ; and the command of
the next expedition into Baflin's Bay was conferred on Lieu-
tenant Young; whofe Inftrudtions, having an immediate
connedlion with our voyage, are here infertcd.

i^M

f ■:

EXTRACT of INSTRUCTIONS to Lieutenant
Young, commanding the Lion armed Vcflll, dated
13th March 1777.

Rffolut'm, '^iT'HEREAS, in purfuance of the King's pleafure, fignified to us by the

Difcovery. ^ Earl of Sandwich, his Majefiy's floops named in the margin have been

Jent out under the command of Captain Cook, in order, during this and the en-

Juingyear, to attempt a difcovery of a Northern paffage, by fea, from the Pacific

to the Atlantic Ocean ; and, for that purpofe, to run up as high as the latitude

•/ 65° North, where it is hoped he will be able to arrive in the month of June

next ; and there, and as much further to the Northward as in his prudence he

fhall think proper ^ veiy carefully tofearchfor and explore fuch rivers or inlets as

may appear to be of a conftderable txtent, and pointing to Hudfon's or Baffin's

Bays,

"*^

I-

,£

INTRODUCTION.

Bays, or the North Sea ; and, upon finding any pnjjage through, fufficient for
thepurpojcs of navigation, to attempt furh paffage with one or both of thefloops j
or, if they are judged to be too large, with fmalkr veffcL, the frames of which
have beenfent out with him for that purpofe : And whereas, in purfuance of his
Majefly's further pleaffre,ftgmfied as aforefaid, the armed vejjd under your com-
mand hath been fitted in order to proceed to Baffin's Bay, with a view to explore
the JVeJiern parts thereof, and to endeavour to find a pajfage, on that fide, from
the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, and we have thought fit to intruft you with the
condiiil of that voyage ; Tou are therefore hereby required and direlfed to put ta
fea in the f aid armed vejfel, without a moment's lofs of time, and make the beft of
your way into Baffin's Bay, andfo ufe your beft endeavours to explore the fVeftern
fbores thereof, as far as in your judgment the fame can be done, without apparent
rifque, and to examine fuch confiderable rivers or inlets as you may di/cover ; and,
in cafe you find any, through which there may be a probability ofpaffing into the
Pacific Ocean, you are to attempt fuch paffage j and if you fucceed in the attempt ^
and pall be able to repafs it again, fo as to return to England this year, you art
to make the beft of your way to Spithead, or the Nore, and remain there until you
receive further order \ fending us an account of your arrival and proceedings.
But if you fijall fucceed in the attempt, and floall find the Jeajon too far advanced
for you to return the fame way, you are then to look out for the moft convenient
place to winter in, and to endeavour to return by the f aid paffage as early in the
next year as thefeafon will admit, and then to make the beft of your way to Eng'
land, as above direiled.

In cafe, however, you fhould not find, or floould be fatisfied there is not any
probability of finding, any fuch paffage, or, finding it, you fhould not be able to get
through in the veffel you command, you are then to return to England, as before
mentioned, unlefs you fhall find any branch of the fea leading to the IVeftward
which you fhall judge likely to afford a communication between the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans, and which you fhall not be able to explore in the courje of this
year, it being, in that cafe, left to your difcretion to ftay the Winter in the moft
commodious fituation you can find, in order to purfue the difcovery next year, if you
fhall find it advifable fo to do; and, having difcovered fuch paffage, or notfuc-
ceeded in the attempt, you are to make the beft of your way to England, as above
dircifcd.

XXXIX

!(; ..

INTRODUCTION.

It was natural to hope, that fomcthing would have been
done in one or other, or in both thefe voyages of the Lionj ]
that might have ojwncd our views with regard to the prac-
ticability of a pafTige from this lide of America. But, un-
fortunately, the execution did not anfwer the expe<5lations
conceived. l'icker(gill, who hat'i acquired profeflional ex-
perience when ading under Cai>tain Cook, juftly merited
the cenfure he received, for improper behaviour when in-
trufted with command in Davis's Strait ; and the talents of
Young, as it afterward appeared, were more adapted to
contribute to the glory of a vidlory, as Commander of a line
of battle fliip, than to add to geographical difcoveries, by
encountering mountains of ice, and exploring unknown
coafts •••'.

Both Pickcrfgill and Young having been ordered to pro-
ceed into Baffin's Bay; and Captain Cook being dircdled
not to begin his fearch till he fliould arrive in the latitude of
65°, it may not be improper to fay fomething here of the
reafons which weighed with thole who planned the voyages,
and framed the inftru<5lions, to carry their views fo far
Northward, as the proper fituation, where the paflage, if it
exirted at all, was likely to be attempted with fuccefs. It
may be alked. Why was Hvidfon's Bay negledled on our
fide of America ; and why was not Captain Cook ordered to
begin his fearch on its oppofite fide, in much lower lati-

• In the Philofophical Tranfa£lions, Vol. Ixviii. p. 1057, we have the track of
Pickerfgill's voyage, which, probably, may be of ufc to our Greenland fhips, as it con-
tains many obfer ations for fixing the longitude and latitude of the coafts in Davis's Strait.
But it appears f.fiat he never entered Baffin's Bay, the hlgheft Northern latitude to which
he advanced being 68° 14'. As to Young's proceedings, having failed abfolutely in
making anv dilcovery, it is of lefe confcquence, that no communication of his joiirruJ
could be procured I

tudes ?

>,■}::

,''■(■■

■^

INTRODUCTION.

tudcs ? Particularly, why not explore the Itr.vit leading into
the Weltera lea of John de Fuca, hetween the latitudes of
47° and 48° ; the Archipelago of St. I.azarus of Adnural dc
Fonte, between 50" and 55^? ^"** ^^^ rivers and lakes
through which he found a palFagc North Eaftward, till he
met with a fliip from Bofton ?

As to the pretended difcoverics of de Fuca, the dreek
Pilot, or of de Fonte, the Spanhh Admiral, though they
have fometimes found their way into (itftitious maps, or
have been warmly contended tor by the cfpoufers ()f fan-
ciful fyltems ; to have diretf^ed Captain Cook to Ipend any
time in tracing them, would have been as wife a meafure
as if he had been diretSted to trace the fituation of Lilli-
put or Brobdignag. The latter arc, indeed, confeiredly,
mere objedls of imagination ; and the former, deftitute of
any fufficient external evidence, bear fo many rtriking
marks of internal abfunlity, as warrant our pronovuicing
them to be the fabric of impofture. Captain Cook's in-
ftrudlions were fo;inded on an accurate knowledge of what
had been already done, and of what ftill remained to do ;
and this knowledge pointed out the inutility of begin-
ning his fearch for a paffagc till his arrival in the lati-
tude of 65°. Of thi> every fair and capable inquirer will
be abundantly convinced, by an attention to the following
particulars.

Middleton, who commanded the expedition in 1741 and
T742, into Hudfon's Bay, had proceeded farther North than
any of his predcccfTors in that navigation. But though,
from his former acquaintance with that Bay, to which he
had frequently failed in the fervice of the Company, he
had enter! uned hopes of finding out a paifage through it
into the I'acific Ocean, the obfervations which he was now

Vol. 1. f enabled

xli

1 1 '
t '1:'

[■i I

•r.

xlii INTRODUCTION.

enabled to make, induced him to change his opinion ; and,
on his return to England, he made an unfavourable report.
Mr. Dobbs, the patron of the enterprize, did not acquiefce
in this ; and, fortified in his original idea of the pradlica-
bility of the paflage, by the teftimony of fome of Mid-
dleton's officers, he appealed to the Public, accufmg him
of having mifreprefented fadts, and of having, from in-
terefted motives, in concert with the Hudfon's Bay Com-
pany, decided againft the pradlicability of the paflage,
though the difcoveries of his own voyage had put it with-
in his reach.

He had, between the latitude of 65° and 66% found a very
confiderable inlet running Weftward, into which he entered
with his fliips ; and, " after repeated trials of the tides, and
" endeavours to difcover the nature and courfe of the
" opening, for three weeks fucceflively, he found the flood
" conftantly to come from the Eallward, and that it was a
" large river he had got mto," to which he gave the name
of Wager River *.

The accuracy, or rather the fidelity of this report was
denied by Mr. Dobbs, who contended that this opening is a
Strati, and not a frejh water river-, and that Middleton, if
he had examined it properly, would have found a paflage
through it to the Weftern American Ocean. The failure
of this voyage, therefore, only ferved to furnifli our zeal-
ous advocate for the difcovery, with new arguments for at-
tempting it once more ; and he had the good fortune, after
getting the reward of twenty thoufand pounds eftabUftied
by ad of parliament, to prevail upon a fociety of gentle-
men and merchants to fit out the Dobbs and California ;
which Ihips, it was hoped, would be able to find their way

* Sec the Abftrail of his Journal, publiflied by Mr. Dobbs.

into

'•S»

.|i.j|ji

INTRODUCTION.

xliii

into the Pacific Ocean, by the very opening which Middle-
ton's voyage had pointed out, and which he was beheved to
have' mifreprefented.

This renovation of hope only produced frefh difappoint-
ment. For it is well known, that the voyage of the Dobbs
and California, inftcad of confuting, ftrongly confirmed all
that Middleton had aflerted. The fuppofed Strait was found
to be nothing more than a frefli water river, and its utmoft
Weftern navigable boundaries were now afcertained, by ac-
curate examination. But though Wager's Strait had thus
difappointed our hopes, as had alfo done Rankin's Inlet,
which was now found to be a clofe Bay ; and though other
arguments, founded on the fuppofed courfe of the tides in
Hudfon's Bay, appeared to be groundlefs ; fuch is our at-
tachment to an opinion once adopted, that, even after the
unfuccefsful iffue of the voyage of the Dobbs and Califor-
nia, a paffage through fome other place in that Bay was,
by many, confidered as attainable ; and, particularly, Chef-
terfield's (formerly called Bowden's) Inlet, lying between
latitude 63° and 64% fucceeded Wager's Strait, in the fan-
guine expeftations of thofe who remained unconvinced by
former difappointments. Mr. Ellis, who was on board the
Dobbs, and who wrote the hiftory of the voyage, holds
up this as one of the places where the pafllige may be
fought for, upon very rational grounds, and with very good
€ffe£is *. He alfo mentions Repulfe Bay, nearly in latitude
67° ; but as to this he fpeaks lefs confidently ; only faying,
that by an attempt there, \ve might probably approach
nearer to the difcovery +. He had good reafon for thus
guarding his expreflion ; for the Committee, who direded
this voyage, admitting the impradicability of effecfli ng a

* Ellis's Voyage, p. 328. f Ibid. p. 330.

f 2 paflage

■■;;!

'i;

jl!

xliv INTRODUCTION.

paflhge at Repiilfe Bay, had refufed allowing the fliips to
go into it, being j^Hhfied as to thai place *.

Setting Repulfe Bay, therefore, afidc, within which wc
have no reafon for believing that any inlet cxifts, there
did not remain any part of Hudfon's Bay to be fearched,
but Chefteriield's Inlet, and a fmall tradl of coaft between
the latitude 62°, and what is called the South Point of
Main, which had been left unexplored by the Dobbs and
California.

But this laft gleam of hope has now difappeared. The
averfion of the Hudfon's Bay Company to contribute any
thing to the difcovery of a North Well paffage, had been
loudly reported by Mr. Dobbs ; and the Public feemed to be-
lieve that the charge was well founded. But Hill, in juftice
to them, it mull be allowed, that, in 1720, they had fent
MefTrs. Knight and Barlow, in a Hoop on this very Ufco-
very ; but thefe unfortunate people were never morr .. d
of. Mr. Scroggs, who failed in fearch of them, i ,--2,
only brought back proofs of their fhipwreck, but no frelh
intelligence about a paffage, which he was alfo to look for.
They alfo fent a floop, and a fluallop, to try for this difco-
very, in 1737; but to no purpofe. If obftru6lions were
thrown in the way of Captain Middleton, and of the Com-
manders of the Dobbs and California, the Governor and
Committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, fince that time,
we mull acknowledge, have made amends for the narrow
prejudices of their predeceffors ; and we have it in our
power to a})peal to fads, which abundantly tcllify, that

• Account of the Voyage, by the Ckrk of the California, Vol. ii. p. 273. Mr.
Dobbs himlelf fiiys, Tliat he tba/^/.'t the p'ljpige would be improSlicabli'., or, at Icajf, very
diffiiiui, in caji there was one farther North than 67°.— Account of Hudfon's Bay,
p. 99.

every

INTRODUCTION.

every thing has been done by them, that coiild be reqviired
by the Pubhc, toward perfedling the fearch for a North
Weft paflage.

In the year 1761, Captain Chriftopher failed from Fort
Churchill, in the Hoop Ch\irchill ; and his voyage was not
quite fruitlefs ; for he failed up Chefterfield's Inlet, through
which a paflage had, by Mr. Ellis's account of it, been fo
generally expedled. But when the water turned brackifli,
which marked that he was not in a ftrait, but in a river,
he returned.

To leave no room for a variety of opinion, however, he
was ordered to repeat the voyage the enfuing fumnier, in
the fame floop, and Mr. Norton, in a cutter, was appointed
to attend him. By the favour of the Governor and Com-
mittee of the Company, the Journals of Captain Chrifto-
pher, and of Mr. Norton, and Captain Chriftopher's chart
of the Inlet, have been readily communi* nted. From
thefe authentic documents, it appears that the fearch and
examination of Chefterfield's Inlet was now completed. It
was found to end in a frefh water lake, at the diftance of
about one hundred and feventy miles from the fea. This
lake was found alfo to be about twenty-one leagues long,
and from five to ten broad, and to be completely clofed
up on every fide, except to the Weft, where there- was a
little rivulet ; to furvey the ftate of which, Mr. Norton
and the crew of the cutter having landed, and marched
up the country, faw that it foon terminated in three falls^
one above another, and not water for a fmall boat over
them ; and ridges, moftly dry from fide to fide, for five or
fix miles hicrher.

Thus ends Chefterfield's Inlet, and all Mr. Ellis's expciSla-
tions of a paffage through it to the Weftcni Ocean. The

other

xlv

J l

xlvi

INTRODUCTION.

iii i

■im

!■■•■

Other parts of the coaft, from latitude 62', to the South Point
of Main, within which limits hopes were alfo entertained
of findir'T a paflage, have, of late years, been thoioughly
explored. It is here that Piftol Bay is fituated; which the
author who has writ laft in this country, on the probability
of a North Weft pajfage 'i-, fpeaks of as the only remaining
part of Hudfon's Bay where this Weltern communication
may exiit. But this has been alfo examined ; and, on the
authority of Captain Chriftopher, we can afllire the Reader,
that there is no inlet of any confequence in all that part of
the coaft. Nay, he has, in an open boat, failed round the
bottom of what is called Piftol Bay, and, inftead of a paf-
fage to a Weftern Sea, found it does not run above three
or four mUes inland.

Befides thefe voyages by fea, which fatisfy us, that we
muft not look for a paflage to the South of 67° of latitude ;
we are indebted to the Hudfon's Bay Company, for a jouY-
ney by land, which has thrown much additional light on
this matter, by affording what may be called demonftra-
tion, how much farther North, at leaft in fome part of their
voyage, fliips muft hold their coux'fe, before they can pafs
from one fide of America to the other. The Northern In-
dians, who come down to the Company's forts for trade,
had brought to the knowledge of our people, the exiftence
of a river ; which, from copper abounding near it, had got
the name of the Copper-mine River, We read much about
this river in Mr. Dobbs's publications, and he confiders the
Indian accounts of it as favourable to his fyftem. The Com-
pany being delirous of examining the matter with precifion.

';:;il

* Printed for
" fearched for thi
« Bay." P. 122

T ffrcys, in 1768. His words arc, "There ixmains then to be
icovcry of a pafTage, the opti.inir called Piltol Bay, in Hudfon's

inrtruclcd

'■}' ,

INTRODUCTION.

inftnuSted their Governor of Prince of Wales's Fort, to fend
"a proper perfon to travel by land, under the efcort of forae
trully Northern Indians, with orders to proceed to this
famous river, to take an accurate furvey of its courfe, and
to trace it to the fea, into which it empties itfelf. Mr.
Hearne, a young gentleman in their fervice, who, having
been an officer in the Navy, was well qaalified to make ob-
fervations for fixing the longitude and latitude, and make
drawings of the country he fliould pafs through, and of
the river which he was to examine, was appointed for this
fervice.

Accordingly, he fet out from Fort Prince of Wales, on
Churchill River, in latitude 58° 50', on the 7th of Decem-
ber 1770 ; and the whole of his proceedings, from time to
time, are faithfully preferved in his written Journal. The
publication of this would not be an unacceptable prefent to
the world, as it draws a plain artlefs pidlure of the favage
modes of life, the fcanty means of fubfiftence, and indeed
of the fingular wretchednefs, in cv^ery refpedl, of the vari-
ous tribes, who, without fixed habitations, pafs their mi-
ferable lives, roving throughout the dreary deferts, and
over the frozen lakes of the immenfe trait of continent
through which Mr. Hearne pafled, and which he may be
faid to have added to the geography of the globe. His ge-
neral courfe was to the North Weft. In the month of June
1771, being then at a place called Conge cat ha wba Cbaga, he
had, to \ife his own words, two good obfervations^ both by
meridian and double altitudes, the mean of zvhich determines
this place to be in latitude 68" 46' North, and, by account,,
in longitude 24° 2' Wejl of Churchill River. On the 13th
of July (having left Conge catha "joba Chaga on the ad,
and travelling ftill to the Weft of North) he rcachc.l tlie

I Copper-

Xlvii

xlviii

INTRODUCTION.

5''

I ,;

Copper-mine River ; and was not a little fiirprized to find
it differ fo much from the defcriptions given of it by the
natives at the fort ; for, inftead of being likely to be navi-
gable for a fliip, it is, at this part, fcarcely navigable for ail
Indian canoe ^ three falls being in fight, at one view, and
being choaked vp with flioals and llony ridges.

Here Mr. Hearne began his fvu'vcy of the river. This he
continued till he arrived at its mouth, near which his
Northern Indians mafiacred twenty-one Efijuimaux, whom
they furprized in their tents. We fiiall give Mr. llearne's
account of his arrival at the fea, in his own v.ords : " After
" the Indians had plundered the tents of the Efquimaux of
" all the copper, Sec. they were then again ready to aflifi:
*' me in making an end to the iVirvey ; the fea then in fight
" from the North Weil by Weft to the North Eaft, diftant
" about eight miles. It was then about five in the morning
" of the 17th, when I again proceeded to furvey the river to
" the mouth, ftill found, in every refpekSl, no ways likely,
" or a pofllbility of being made naviga\)le, being full of
" flioals and falls ; and, at the entrance, the river emptying
" itfclf over a dry flat of the fiiore. For the tide was then
" out, and feemed, by the edges of the ice. to flow about
" twelve or fourteen feet, which will only reach a little
" within the river's mouth. That being the cafe, the wa-
" ter in the river had not the leaft brackifli tafte. But I am
" lure of its being the fea, or fome part thereof, by the
*' quantity of wliale-bone and feal-fliins tbe Efquimaux had
" at their tents ; as alio the number of feals which I law
" upon the ice. The lea, at the river's mouth, was full
" of illands and lioals, as far as I could fee, by the affift-
•■' nnce of a poc ket tolefcope ; and the ice was not yet broken
" up, only thawed away about three (piarters of a mile

from

■M

■-fi!

INTRODUCTION.

xlix

'Am

« from the fhore, and a little way round the iflands and
« flioals.

« By the time I had completed this furvey, it was about
" one in the morning of the i8th ; hut in thcle high la-
'• titadcs, and this time of the year, the fun is always a
« good height above the horizon. It then came on a thick.
" drizzling rain, with a thick fog ; and, as finding the river
" and fea, in every refpedt, not likely to be of any utility,
" I did not think it worth while to Avait for fair weather, to
" determine the latitude exadly by an obfervation. But, by
" the extraordinary care I took in obferving the courfes
" and diilances, walked from Congecathawhacbaga^ w^here
" I had two good obfervations, the latitude may be de-
" ]iended on, within twenty miles at fartheft."

From the map which Mr. Hearne conftrutfted of the
country through which he pafTed, in this fingtdar journey,
and which we have been permitted to copy upon our gene-
ral chart, it apjiears that the mouth of the Copper-mine
River lies in the latitude 72°, and above 25" Weft longitude
from the fort, from whence he took his departure *.

The confequences refulting from this extenfive difcovery,
are obvious. We now fee that the continent of North Ame-
rica ftretches from Hudfon's Bay fo far to the North Weft,
that Mr. Hearne had travelled near thirteen hundred miles
before he arrived at the fea. His moft Weftern diftance
from the coaft of Hudfon's Bay was near fix hundred

* Mr. Hearne's journey, back from the Copper-mine River, to Fort Prince of Wales,
iafted till June 30, 1772. From his firft fctting out till his return, he had employed
near a year and fcven months. The .i.paralleled liardftiips he fiiffered, and the cfll-ntial
fervicc he performed, met with a fuitable reward from his maftcrs, and he is wuw die (jo-
vernor of I'ort i'riii.cc of Wales, where he was taken prifuner by the French 11. 1782;
and lalV fummer returned to his ftation.

Vol. I.

miles

;iS'l

INTRODUCTION.

miles •■• ; and that his Indian guides were well apprized of
a vaft tradt of continent llretthiiig farther on in that direc-
tion, is certain from many circumftances mentioned in his
Journal ; one of which, as, befides eltablifliing this fadl, it
prefents us with a very ftriking pidture of favage life, has
been tranfcribed in the following note f .

What

I
I!

* The Hudfou's Bay Company have a trading poft, called Hu.lfiii's Houf,-^ above five
hundred miles up the country, in lat. 53° o' 32'^ and in long. 106" 27' 30''.

f This day, Jan. 11, 1772, as the Indians were hunting, fome of them faw a ftrange
fnow I10C track, which they followed, and at a confiderable diftancc came to a little hut,
where they found a young woman fitting aloriC. They brought her to the tents ; and,
on examining her, found that fhe was one of the Wcftern Do^-ribbed Indians, and had
been taken prifoner by the Anithapcfcow Indians in the furnmer 1770 ; and when the In-
dians, who took her prifoner, were near this part in the furnmer 1771, (he eloped from
them, with an intent to return to her own country ; but it being fo far off, and, after being
taken prifoner, having come the whole way in canoes, with the winding of rivers and
lakes, (he had forgot the way ; and had been in this little hut ever fince the firft fetting
in of the fall. By her account of the moons pad, fince her elopement, it appears to be
the middle of laft July when fhe left the Arathapefcow Indians, and had not feen a hu-
man face ever fince. She fupported herfelf very well by fiiaring of rabbits, partridges,
and fquirrels, and was now in good health and flefh ; and, I think, as fine a woman, of a
real Indian, as I have feen in any part of North America. She had nothing to make
fiiares of but the finews of rabbits legs and feet, which flie twifted together for that pur-
pofc ; and of the rabbits fkins had made hcrfclf a neat and warm winter's clothing. The
ftock of materials fhe took with her, when (he eloped, confiilcd of about five inches of an
iron hoop for a knife ; a ftone fteel, and other hard ftones as flints, together with other
fire tackle, as tinder, &c. ; about an inch ajid half of the (hank of the flioeing of an ar-
row, of iron, of which flie made an awl. She had not been long at the tents, when half
a fcore of men wrelUed to fee who (hould have her for their wife. She lays, when the
Arathapefcow Indians took her prifoner, that they ftole on the tents in the night, when
the inhabitants were all adcep, and killed every foul except herfelf and three other young
women. Her father, mother, and hulljand were in the fame tent with her, and they were
all killed. Her child, of about five months old, (he took with her, wrapped in a bundle of
her clothing, undifcovercd, in the night. Hut when arrived at tlie place v/here the Ara-
thapefcows had left their wives, which was not far of}', it being then day-breaic, thefe In-
dian women immediately began to examine her bundle ; and having there found the child,

took

fe:"l,r!l|

¥1

•t

INTRODUCTION.

What is now, for the firft time, authentically laid before
the Public, with regard to the difcoverics made by the
Hudfon's Bay Company, was well known to the noble Lord
who prefuled at the board of Admiralty, when this voyage
was undertaken ; and the intimate connexion of thofe dif-
coverics with the Plan of the Voyage, of courfe, regulated
the inftrudlions given to Captain Cook.

And now, may we not take it upon \is to appeal to every
candid and capable inquirer, whether that part of the in-
lh-u6lions which directed the Captain not to lofe time, in
exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account y till he
got into the latitude of 65°, was not framed judicioully;
as there were fuch indubitable proofs that no palTage ex-
irted fo far to the South as any part of Hudfon's Bay, and
that, if a paffage could be effedled at all, part of it, at
leaft, muft be traverfed by the fliips as far to the North-
ward as the latitude 72°, where Mr. Hearne arrived at
the fea ?

We may add, as a farther confideration in fupport of this
article of the Inftru(Slions, that Beering's Afiatic difcoveries,
in 1728, having traced that continent to the latitude of 67%
Captain Cook's approach toward that latitude was to be
wiflied for, that he might be enabled to bring back more

took it from her and killed it immediately. The relation of this fhocking fcene only
ferved the favages of my gang for laughter. Her country isfofar to the TViJiiuard, that (he
fays (he never faw any iron, or other kind of metal, till taken prifoner ; thofe of her tribe
making their hatchets and chifels of deers horns, and knives of ftone and bone ; tlieir ar-
rows are (hod with a kind of (late, bones, and deers horns ; and tlicir inftrumcnts, to niiJcc
their wood work, are nothing but beavers teeth. They have frequently heard of the ufc-
ful materials the nations to the Eafb of them are fupplied with from the KngIKh ; but,
in(\ead of drawing nearer to be in the way of trading for iron work, &c. are obliged to
retreat farther back, to avoid the Arathapefcow Indians, as they make furprizing flaugliter
amongft them every year, both winter and uunmer. Hearne's.MS, Journal,

g 2 autkcutic

I N T U O D U G T I O N.

"'■n^

y r

authentic information than the world had hitherto ob-
tained, about the relative lltuation and vicinity of the two
continents, which was abfolutely netcH'ary to be known,
bct\)re the pradlicability of failini»; between the Pacific and
Atlantic Oceans, in any Northern ilire<5tion, could be afcer-
tained.

After all, that fearch, in a lower latitutle, which they
who i^ivc crctlit (if any I'uch there now be) to the pretended
tlifcoveries of de Fonte, aft'ein; to wilh had been recommend-
ed to Captain Cook, has (if t)iat will cure them of their
tredvdity) been iatisfadlorily matle. The Spaniards, roufed
from their kthaigy by om* voyav^es, and having- caught a
fpark of enteriirize from our repeated vilits to the Pacific
Ocean, have followed us more than once into the line of our
difco\XTies within the Southern tropic ; and have alfo fitted
out expeditions to explore the American continent to the
North of California. It is to be lamented, that there llioukl
be any reafons why the tranfaiitions of thole Spanilh voyages
have not been fidly difcloled, with the lame liberal fpirit of
information which other nations have adopted. But, for-
tunately, this exceflive caution of tlie court of Spaiii has
been defeated, at leall in one inftance, by the publication of
an authentic Joiunal of their lail voyage of difcovery upon
the coall of America, in 1775, for which the world is in-
debted to the Honourable Mr. Daincs Barrington. This
j)id:)lication, which conveys fome information of real con-
fequence to geography, and has therefore been referred to
more than once in the follow ing work, is particularly va-
luable in this refpedt, that fome parts of the coafl which
Captain (]ook, in his progrefs Northward, was prevented,
by unfaNourable w inds, from approaching, were feen and
examined by the Spanilh fliips who preceded him; and
I the

111^

*t»

INTRODUCTION.

tlic pcrufal of the following extradl from their Journal,
may be rccommemlcd to thofc (if any fuch there be) who
would reprcfcnt it as an imperfe^Slion in Captain Cook's
voyage, that he had not an opiK)rtunity of examining the
coalt of America, in the latitude afligned to the difcoverie*
of Admiral Fontc. " We now attempted to find out the
" Itraits of Admiral Fonte, though, as yet, we had not dif-
" covered the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, through which
" he is faid to have failed. ' With this intent, we fearched
" every bay and recefs of the coaft, and failed round every
" headland, lying to in the night, that we might not lofe
" fight of this entrance, ylfter thefe pains takeny and being
" favoured by a ^oilb IVeJl ivind^ it may be pronounced that
" no Jucb Jlraits are to be found '''= ."^

In this Journal, the Spaniards boaft of " having reached
" fo high a latitude as 58% beyond what any other naviga-
" tors had been able to efleifl in thofe feas +." Without
diminifliing the merit of their performance, we may be
permitted to fay that it will appear very inconliderable, in-
deed, in comparifon of what Captain Cook effedted, in the
voyage of which an account is given in thefe volumes. Be-
fides exploring the land in the South Indian Ocean, of which
Kerguelen, in two voyages, had been able to obtain but a
very imperfc(Sl knowledge ; adding alfo many confiderable
accelfions to the geography of the Friendly Iflands ; and
difcovering the noble group, now called Sandwich Iflands,
in the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean, c which not

* Journal of a voyage in 1775 by Don Francifco Antonio Maurelle, in Mr. Barring-
ton b MifccUaiiies, p. 508.

t Ibid. p. 507. We learn from Maurelic's Journal that another voyage had been foinc
time before performed upon the coaft of America ; but tlie utmolt Northern progrefs gf
it was to latitude 55°.

the

liii

ft .'i

liT 1 N T U O D U C r I O N.

the fainteft trace can be met Avith in the account of any
former voyage; helulcs thefe preliminary dilcoveries, the
Reader of the followini^ work will (ind, that in one fum-
mer, our En^lifli Navigator difcovered a much larger pro-
portion of the North Welt coaft of y\merica than the Spa-
niards, though fettled in the neighbourhood, had, in all
their attempts, for above two hundred years, been able to
do ; That he has put it beyond all doubt that Beering and
Tfcherikort' had really difcovered the continent of America
in .1741, and has alio ertabliflied the prolongation of that
continent Wcihvard oppofite Kamtfchatka, which fpecula-
tive writers, \\eddcd to favourite fyftems, had afFecfted fo
much to dilbclieve ■', and which, though admitted by Mul-
ler, had, lince he wrote, been confidered as difproved by
later Ruffian difcoveries + ; That, belides afcertaining the
true pofition of the Weltern coalls of America, with fomc
inconfiderable interruptions, from latitude 44° up to beyond
the latitude 70°, he has alfo afcertained the pofition of the
North Eallcrn extremity of Aiia, by confirming Beering's
difcoveries in 1728, and adding extenfive acceffions of his
own ; That he has given us more authentic information
concerning the illands lying between tlie two tx)ntinents,
than the Kamtfchatka traders, ever fincc Beering firft taught

I' i

• Dr. Campbell, fpeaWng of Beering's voyage in 1741, fays, " Nothing can be plainer
" than tiiis truth, that his dil'covery docs not warrant any fuch fuppofition, as that tlie
■*' country he touched at was a great continent making part of North America."

t See Coxe's Ruffian Difcoveries, p. 26, 27, &c. The fidlions of fpcculative geo-
graphers in the Southern hemifpherc, have been continents ; in the Northern hemifphere,
they have been feas. It may be obferved, therefore, that if Captain Cook in his firll
voyages annihilated imaginary Southern lands, he has made amends for the havock, in his
third voyage, by annihilating imaginary Northern feas, and filling up tlie vaft fpace,
•which had been allotted to them, with the folid contents of his new difcoveries of Ame-
/ican land farther Weft and North than had hitlierto been traced.

them

INTRODUCTION.

them to venture on this fea, had been able to procure *;
That, by fixii\i^ the relative fituation of Afia and America,
and (Ufcoverinir the narrow bounds of the ftrait that divides
them, he has thrown a blaze of light upon this important
part of the geography of the globe, and folved the puzzling
problem about the peopling of America, by tribes deilitute
of the neceiFary means to attempt long navigations ; and,
laftly. That, though the principal obje(5t of the voyage fail-
ed, the world will be greatly benefited even by the faib.irc,
as it has brought us to the knowledge of the exiftence of
the impe Hments, which future navigators may expedt to
meet with in attempi ing to go to the Eaft Indies through
Bcering's ftrait.

The ex( nded review we have taken of the preceding
voyages, and the general < 'itline we have fketched out, of
the tranfadlions of the >a% which are recorded at full
length in thefe volumes, will not, It is hoped, be confidered
as a prolix or wuicj eflary detail. It will ferve to give a
juft notion of the whole plan of difcovery executed by his
Majefty's commands. And it appearing that much was
aimed at, and much accompliflied, in the unknown parts
of the globe, in both hemiipheres, there needs no other

* l^hc Ruffians feem to owe much to England, in matters of this fort. It is fingular
enough that one of our countrymen, Dr. Campbell [See his edition of Harris's voyages.
Vol. ii. p. I02I.J has prefcrvcd many valuable particulars of Beering's .firft voyage, of
which Muller himfclf, the Hiftorian of their earlier difcoveries, makes no mention ; that
it fhould be another of our countrymen, Mr. Coxe, who firft publiftied a fatisfa£tory ac-
count of their later difcoveries ; and that the King of Great Britain's fliips fhould tra-
vcrfe tl , ;SV«<; in 1778, to confirm to the Ruffian empire the pofleffion of near thirty
degree, -<; : .bovc fix hundred miles, of continent, which Mr. Engel, in his zeal for the
practicability of a North Eaft pafTage, would prune away from the length of Afia to the
Ealtward. See his Mcnwires Gfographir/ui's, &c. Laufanne 1765 ; which, however, con-
truis much real information ; and many parts of which are confirmed by Captain
Cook's American difcoveries.

confuleration,

tf'l

IVi INTRODUCTION.

confulcration, to give full fatisfacflion to thofe who poffels
an enlarged way of thinking, that a variety of ufefnl pur-
pofes mult have been eft'eded by thefe relearches. But
there are others, no doubt, m ho, too diffident of their own
abilities, or too indolent to exert them, would wifli to have
their reflections aililtcd, by pointing out what thofe ufeful
purpofes are. F'or the Icrvice of fuch, the following enu-
meration of particulars is entered upon. And if there
Ihould be any, who aifedt to imdervahie the plan or the
execution "f our voyages, what lliall now be offered, if it
do not convince them, may, at leaft, check the influence of
their unfavourable dccillon.

I. It may be fairly confidercd, as one great advantage
accruing to the world from our late fvu^veys of the globe,
that they have confuted fancifid theories, too likely to give
hirth to impradticable iindcrtakings.

After Captain Cook's peii'evering and fruitlcfs traveries
through every corner of the Southern hemifphcre, who, for
the future, will pay any attention to the ingenious reveries of
Campbell, de Broffes, and dc Euifon ? or hope to eltablifli an
intercourfe with fuch a continent as Maujicituis's fruitful
imagination had pi6tured ? A continent equal, at leaif , in ex-
tent, to all the civilized countries in the known Northern
hemifphcre, where new men, new animals, new inoduClions
of every kind, might be brought forward to our view, and
difcoveries be made, which wo\ild open inexhaidtiblc trea-
fiu'cs of commerce ■. We can now boldly take it upon us

* Sec Maupcrtuis's Letter to the King of Pruflia. The author of the Preliminary
Difcourfe "o Bougainville's I'jyagt' uux Ijla ALilcuiius, computes that the Southern co]i-
tinent (for the exillence of which, he owns, we muft depend more on the conjc£lurcs of
philofophers, than on the tcftimony of voyagers) contains eight or ten millions of fquarc
leagues.

INTRODUCTION.

to difcourage all expeditions, formed on fuch reafonings
of fpeculative philofophers, into a quarter of the globe,
where our perfevering Englilh navigator, inftead of this
promifed fairy land, found nothing but barren rocks,
fcarcely affording flicker to penguins and feals ; and dreary
feas, and mountains of ice, occupying the immenfe fpace
allotted to imaginary paradifes, and the only treafures there
to be difcovered, to reward the toil, and to compenfate the
dangers of the unavailing fearch.

Or, if we carry our reflections into the Northern hemi-
fphere, could Mr. Dobbs have made a Angle convert, much
lefs could he have been the fuccefsful folicitor of two dif-
ferent expeditions, and have met with encouragement from
the legiflature, with regard to his favourite paflage through
Hudfon's Bay, if Captain Chriftopher had previoufly ex-
plored its coafts, and if Mr. Hearne had walked over the im-
menfe continent behind it ? Whether, after Captain Cook's
and Captain Gierke's difcoveries on the Weft fide of Ame-
rica, and their report of the ftate of Bearing's Strait, there
can t>e fuflicient encouragement to make future attempts
to penetrate into the Pacific Ocean in any Northern direc-
tion, is a queftion, for the depifion of which the Public will
be indebted to this work.

2. Bat our voyages will benefit the world, not only by
diftouraging future unprofitable fearches, but alfo by lef-
fening the dangers and diftrefles formerly experienced in
thofe feas, which arc within the line of commerce and na-
vigation, now adually fubfifting. In how many inftances
have the millakes of former navigators, in fixing the true
fituations of important places, been redlified ? What accef-
fion to the variation chart ? How many nautical obferva-
tions have been colleded, and are now ready to be confulted.

Vol. I. h in

Ivii

.y^i

Iviii

INTRODUCTION.

■,r'-!||

I .)

■fli

in dire<Sling a lliip's coiirfe, along rocky fliores, through
narrow ftraits, amulft perplexing currents, and dangerous
fhoals } But, above all, what numbers of new bays, and
harboiu^s, and anchoring-places, are now, for the firlt time,
brought forward, where fliips may be flieltered, and their
crews find tolerable refrefliments r To enumerate all thcfc
would be to tranfcribe great part of the journals of our fcvc-
ral Commanders, whofc labours will endear them to every
navigator whom trade or war may carry into their tracks.
Every nation that fends a fliip to fea, will partake of the
benefit ; but Great Britain herfelf, whofc commerce is
boundlefs, mull take the lead in reaping the full advan-
tage of her own dilcoveries.

In confequencc of all thefe various improvements, lefTen-
ing the apprehenfions of engaging in long voyages, may
we not reafonably indulge the pleafing hope, that frefli
branches of commerce may, even in our own time, be at-
tempted, and fuccefsfully carried on? Our hardy adven-
turers in the whale-filliery, have already found their way,
within thefe few years, into the South Atlantic ; and w ho
knows what frefli fovirces of commerce may Hill be opened,
if the profpedt cf p;uin can be adtled, to keep alive the fpirit
of cnterprizc ? It the fituation of Great Britain be too re-
mote, other trading nations will affuredly avail thcmfclvcs
of our difcoverics. We may foon expedt to hear that the
Ruffians, now inftruded by us where to find the American
continent, have extended their voyages from the Fox lllands
to Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound. And if Spain
itfelf fhould not be tempted to trade from its moll: Northern
Mexican ports, by the frefh mine of wealth difcovered in
the furs of King George's Sound, which they may tranf])ort
in their Manilla Ihips, as a favourite commodity for the
10 Chinefe

- M

INTRODUCTION.

Chinefe market ; that market may probably be fupplied by
a diredt trade to America, from Canton itfelf, with thofe
valuable articles which the inhabitants ol China have hi-
therto received, only by the tedious and expenlive circuit
of Kamtfchatka and Kiachta.

Thefe and many other commercial improvements may
reafonably be expedled to refvdt from the Britifli difcoveries,
even in our own times. But if we look forward to future
ages, and to future changes in the hiftory of commerce, by
recolledting its various paft revolutions and migrations, we
may be allowed to pleafe ourfelves with the idea of its find-
ing its way, at laft, throughout the extent of the regions
with which our voyages have opened an intercourfe ; and
there will be abundant reafon to fubfcribe to Captain Cook's
obfervation with regard to New Zealand, which may be ap-
plied to other trails of land explored byh im, that " al-
*' though they be far remo<-e from the prefent trading
*' world, we can, by no means, tell what ufe future ages
** may make of the difcoveries made by the prefent *." In
this point of view, furely, the utility of the late voyages
muft ftand confefled ; and we may be permitted to fay, that
the hiftory of their operations, which will be completed in
thefe volumes, has the jufteft pretenfions to be called nT^fix
ig civ, as it will convey to lateft pofterity a treafure of inte-
rcfting information.

3. Admitting, however, that wc \n:rr have exprefled too
fanguine expedations of commcrti.il advantages, either
within our own reach, or gradually f.) be unfolded at fome
future period, as the refult of our voyages of difcovery ; we
may ftill be allowed to confider them as a laudable effort to
add to the Itock of human knowle>\i;c, with regard ^ aii

* Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. j . 92,

h 2 objea:

lix

-Jl'

,ll' '

' 111

Ix INTRODUCTION.

obje(5l which cannot but deferve the attention of enlight-
ened man. To exert our faculties in devifing ingenious
modes of fatisfying ourfelves about the magnitude and
diftance of the fun ; to extend our acquaintance with the
fyftem to which that luminary is the common centre, by
tracing the revolutions of a new planet, or the appearance
of a new comet ; to carry our bold refcarches through all
the immenfity of fpace, where world beyond world rifes to
the view of the aftoniflied obferver; thefe are employ-
ments which none b\it thofe incapable of purfuing them
can depreciate, and which every one capable of purfuing
them muft delight in, as a dignified exercife of the powers
of tjie human mind. But while we diredt our ftudies to
diftant worlds, which, after all our exertions, we muft
content ourfelves with having barely difcc^vered to exift, it
would be a ftrange negle<St, indeed, and would argue a
moft culpable want of rational curiofity, if we did not ufe
our beft endeavours to arrive at a full acquaintance with
the contents of our own planet ; of that little fpot in the
immenfe univerfe, on which we have been placed, and the
utmoft limits of which, at leaft its habitable parts, we jwf-
fefs the means of afcertaining, and defcribing, by adlvial ex-
amination.

So naturally doth this refletflion prefent itfelf, that to
know lomething of the terraqueous globe, is a favourite
obje(5t with every one who can tafte the lowed rudiments
of learning. Let us not therefore tliink fo meanly of the
times in which we live, as to fuppofe it poITil^lc that full
juftice will not be done to the noble plan of difcovery, fo
fteadily and fo fuccefsfuUy carried on, fnice the acceffion oi'
his Majelly ; which cannot fail to be confidcrcd, in every
fuccecding age, us a fplendid period in the hiftory of our

country}

lift:.

INTRODUCTION.

country, and to add to our national glory, by diftinguifhing
Great Britain as taking the lead in the moft arduous under-
takings for the common benefit of the human race. Be-
fore thefe voyages took place, nearly half the furface of the
globe we inhabit was hid in obfcurity and confufion. What
is rtill wanting to complete our geography, may juftly be
termed the minutia of that fcience.

4. Let us now carry our thoughts fomewhat farther. It
is fortunate for the interefts of knowledge, that acquifiti "".s
in any one branch, generally, and indeed imavoidably, lead
to acquifitions in other branches, perhaps of ftill greater
confequence ; and that we cannot even gratify mere curio-
fity, without being rewarded with valuable inftru6lion.
This obfervation applies to the fubjedt before us. Voyages,
in which new oceans have been traverfed, and in which
new countries have been vifited, can fcarcely ever be per-
formed, without bringing forward to our view frefli ob-
jedls of fcience. Even when we are to take our report of
what was difcovered, from the mere failor, whofe know-
ledge fcarcely goes beyond the narrow limits of his own
profeflion, and whofe inquiries are not direcSled by philofo-
phical difcernment, it will be unfortunate indeed, if fome-
thing hath not been remarked, by which the fchchr may
profit, and ufeful acceffions be made to our old flock of in-
formation. And if this be the cafe in general, how much
more muft be gained by the particular voyages now under
confidcration ? Befides naval officers equally fkilled to exa-
mine the coafts they might approach, as to delineate them
accurately upon their charts, artifts •■• were engaged, who,

* MelT. Hodges and Webber, whofe drawings have ornamented and illuftrated this ani
Captain Cook's fecond voyage.

Ixi

s! t

I^UiK

Ixii INTRODUCTION.

by their drawings, might ilhiftrate what could only be im^
perfedlly defcribed ; matliematicians *, who might trealure
up an extenfive ferici oi" icientitlc obfervations ; and per-
Ibns verfed in the vario'-.s dcpartnuni; of the hiftory of
nature, who might col le<it, v)r record, ," that they Ihould
find new and valuaijlc, f.h.v>uv^'. jui ;.': wi<le extent of
their refciirchc;. But \vhile molt of tlicle alTociates of oiir
naval diicoverers, were liberally rewarded by the Public,
there was one gentleman, who thinkino; it the noblell re-
ward he coulc! receire, to have .ui jppoitunity of making
the ample iortune he inherited fruui his ancellors, fubfer-
vient to the improvement of / ience, Hepped forward of
his own accord, and fubn^tting to the hardlhips and dan-
gers of a circumnavigation of the globe, accompanied Cap-
tain Cook in the Endeavour. The learned world, I may
alfo fay the unlearned, will never forget the ol^ligations
which it owes to Sir Jofeph Banks.

What real acqxntitions have been gained, by this mu-
nificent attention to fcience, cannot be better exprelfed than
in the words of Mr. Wales, who engaged in one of thefe
voyages himfelf, and contributed largely to the benefits de-
nized from them.

" That branch of natural knowledge which may be
*♦ called nautica/ a/hofwmy, wasundowhteiWy in its infancy,
" when thefe voyages were firil undertaken. Jioth inftru-

'ir,> I

* Ml. Green, in the Eiiuvuvour ; MelTrs. Wales and Bayly, In the Rcfolutiorv and
Adventure ; Mr. Bayly, a lecond time, jointly with Captains Cook arJ King in tiiis
voyage ; and Mr. Lyons, who accomi'iinied Lord Mulgravc. 'I'he obfervations of
MefTrs. Wales and Bayly, dining Captain Cook's rccond voyage, are already in the
hands of the i iiblic, by rhe f. cur uf the Board of Longitude ; and thofe of Captains
Cook and King, and Mr. Ba\ly, during this !;Jl, will appear immediately after our i'ubli-
catiori.

" mcnt5-

I N T R O D U C T I O N.

Ixiii

■> K

" ments and obfervers, which deferved the name, were
" very rare ; and lb late as the year 1770, it was thotight
" neceirary, in the appendix to Mayer's TaOles^ puhlifhed by
" the Board of Longitude, to ftate fadls, in contradidlion to
" the airertions of fo celebrated an aftronomer as the Abbe
*' de la Caille, that the altitude of the fun at noon, the
*' ealieft and moll fimple^ of all obfervations, could not be
*' taken with certainty to a lefs quantity than five,- fix,
" leven, or even eight minutes *. But thole who will give
" themfelves the trouble to look into the ajtronomical ob"
" fer-jations, made in Captain Cook's laft voyage, will find,
" that there were few, even of the petty officers, who
" could not obferve the diftance of the m(jon from the
" fun, or a ftar, the moll delicate of all obfervations, with
" fuflicient acciviacy. It may be added, that the method
" of making and computing obfervations for finding the
" variation of the compals, is better known, and more fre-
" quently pra(5liled by thofe who have been on thefc voy-
" ages, than by moll others. Nor is there, perhaps, a per-
" Ion who ranks as an officer, and has been concerned in

* The Abbe's words arc, " Si ceux qui promettent une fi grandc precifion d;ins ces
" fortes de mcthodes, avoient navigue quclque temps, ils auroient vu fouveilt, que dans
« I'obfervation la plus fimple de toutes, qui eft celle de la hauteur dii foleil a midi, deux
" (>l)fcn'ations, munis de bons quartiers de reflexion, bicn redVifies, different entr'eux,
" lorfqu'ils obfervent chacun a part, de 5', b', f, & W" Ephcmcr. 1755 — 1765.
ItitroduStkn., p. 32.

It muft be, however, mentioned, injufticetoM.de la Cailir, that he attempted to
introduce the lunar method of difcovering the longitude, and propofcd a plan of calcula-
tions of the moon's diftance from the fun and fixed ftars ; but through the impcifection
of his inftruments, his fuccefs was much lefs than that method was capable of afford-
ing. The bringing it into general ufe was refcrvcd for Dr. Malkelyne, our Aftronomer
Royal. Sec the preface to the Tubles for correcting the Ef.ih of R.faaion and Parallax,
publiihed by the Board of Longitude, under the Dircdtion of Dr. Shepherd, Plumian
TrofciTor of Aftionomy and Experimental I'hilofophy at Cambridge, in 1772.

" them.

"rrn-^jj

Ixiv INTRODUCTION.

<' them, who would not, whatever his real fkill may be, feel
" afliamecl to have it thought that he did not know how to
" obferve for, and compute the time at fea ; though, but
** a Ihort while before thefe voyages were fet on foot, fuch
** a thing was fcarcely ever heard of amongrt Teamen ; and
*' even firll-rate artronomcrs doubted the pofTibility of do-
" ing it with fufficient exadnels '■'•.

** The number of places, at which the rife and times of
** flowing of tides have been obferved, in thefe voyages,
" is very great ; and hence an important article of ufeful
" knowledge is afforded. In thefe obfervations, fome very
** curious and even unexpedled circumftances have offered

,j.i

• In addition to Mr. Wales's Remark, it may be obferved, that the proficiency of our
navfei officers in taking obfervations at fea, inuft ultimately be attributed to the great at-
tention paid to this iiTiportant objciS by the Board of Longitude at home j liberal rewards
having been given to mathematicians for perfecting the lunar tables, and facilitating cal-
culations ; and to artifts for conftruifting more accurate inftruments for obferving, and
watches better adapted to keeping time at fea. It appears, therefore, that the voyages of
difcovery, aiid the operation.^ of the board of longitude went hand in hand ; and they muft
be combined, in order to form a juft eftimate of the extent of the plan carried into execu-
tion fijice his Majelly's acccnion, for improving aftronomy and navigation. But, bcfides
the cftablifhmcnt of the Board of Longitude on its prefent footing, which has had fuch
important confequences, it muft alfo be ever acknowleuged, that his prefent Majefty has
extended his royal patron.\gc to every branch of the liberal arts and ufeful fcience.
The munificent prefent to the Royal Society for defraying the expcnce of obll-rving
the tranfit of Venus ; — the inftitution of the Academy of Painting and Sculpture ;— the
magnificent apartments allotted to 'nj Royal and Antiquary Societies, and to the Royal
Academy, at Somerfet Place ; — the fupport of the Garden of Exotics at Kew, to improve
which, Mr. MafTon was fent to the extremities of Africa ; — the y«//7^/«/;W encouragement
afforded to learned men and learned works, in various departments j and particularly, that
afforded to Mr. Hcrichcll, which has enabled him to devote himfelf entirely to the im-
provement of aftronomy ; thefe, and many other inftances which might be enumerated,
would have '/reatlv Jifti;iguifhc-d his Majcfly's reign, even if he had not been tlie patron of
ti'.ofe fuccgfji'ul ulf.mpts to peifcil geography and navigation by fo many voyages of difco-
very.

" thein-

T 1 ■

INTRODUCTION.

" themfelves to our confideration. It will be fufficient to
" inrtance the exceedingly fmall height to which the tide
" rifes, in the middle of the great Pacific Ocean ; where it
" falls Ihort, two-thirds at leaft, of what might have been
" cxpeded from theory and calculation.

" The dire<5tion and force of currents at fea, make alfo
«* an important objedl. Thefe voyages will be found to
*< contain much xileful information on this head; as well
*' relating to feas nearer home, and which, in confequence,
" are navigated every day, as to thofe which are more re-
" mote, but where, notwithftanding, the knowledge of
" thefe things may be of great fervice to thofe who are
** dertined to navigate them hereafter. To this head alfo
" we may refer the great number of experiments which
" have been made for inquiring into the depth of the fea,
" its temperature, and faltnefs at different depths, and in a
" variety of places and climates.

" An extenlive found:\don has alfo been laid for improve-
" ments in magnetifm, for difcovering the caufe and nature
" of the polarity of tho needle, and a theory of its varia-
*' fiDns, by the number nnd variety of the obfervations and
" experiments which have L.-C' • made, both on the variation
'■'■ and dip, in almoll all parto of ihc world. Experimentr. alfo
" have been made, in confequence of the late voyages, on
" the effedls of gravity, in different and very diltant placi
"=' which may ferve to increafe our rtock of natural knov/
" ledge. From the fame fource of information wc have
" learned, that the phaenomenon, ufually called the aurora
« borcalis, is not peculiar to high Northern latitudes, but
" belongs, equally, to all cold climates, whether they be
•' North or South.

" But, jierhaps, no part of knowledge has been fo great

Ixv

Vol. 1.

((

a gainer

Ixvi

INTRODUCTION.

^ "t|

•I'l ■l-J

" a gainer by the late voyages, as that of botany. We are
« told ■•= that, at kail, twelve hundred new plants have
'' been added to the known 1/ftem; and that very confi-
" d'jrablc additions have been made to every other branch
" of natural hiftory, by the great fkill and induftry of Sir
" Jofuph Banks, and the other gentlemen + who have ac-
" companied Captain Cook for that purpofe."

To our naval officers in general, or to their learned af-
foiiu'.cs 111 iiie expeditions, all the foregoing improvements
of knowledge may be traced ; but there is one very lingular
improvement indeed, ftill behind, for "hich, as we are
folely indebted to Captain Cook, let us ftate it in his own
words : " Whatever may be the public judgment about
♦* other matters, it is with real fatisfa<5lion, and without
" claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty,
" that I can conclude this account with an obfervation,
" which fadts enable me to make, that our having dif-
" covered the poffibility of preferving health amongft a
" numerous fhip's compare, for fuch a length of time, in
" fuch varieties of climate, and amidlt fuel: continued hard-
" fliips and fatigues, will make this voyage' remarkable, in
" the opinio'i of every benevolent perfon, when the dif-
»' putes abouv a Southern continent fhall ha\ c ceafcd to en-
" gage the attention, and to divide the judgment of i)hilo-
'* fophers X"

* See Dr. Shepherd's Preface, as above.

t Dr. Solander, Dr. Forfter and hi? foil, and Dr. Sparman. Dr. Forfter has given
us a fpecimen of the botanical difcoveries of his voyage in tlie Cljtiraf.Ures Gencri'm Pkin-
tarutn, &c. and much curious philofuphical matter is contained in his OhjerviiUons made
in a yoyiige round the jyorld. ])•■. Sparman alio, on his return to Sweden, favoured us
with a publication, in which lie cxpatiaf-s on the advantages accruing to natural hiftory,
to aftrononiy, geography, general phyfics, and navigation, from our South Sea voyages.

t Cook's Voy.igc, Vol. ii. p. 293,

I 5. But

' ■H

But

I N T 11 O D U (J T 1 O N.

5. But while our late voyages have opened fo many chan-
nels to an increafc of knowledge in the leveral articles al-
ready enumerated ; while they have extended our acquaint-
ance with the contents of the globe ; while they have faci-
litated old tracks, and have opened new ones for com-
merce ; while they have been the means of improving the
fkill of the navigator, and the fclence of the aftronomer ;
while they have procured to us fo valuable acceHions in the
feveral departments of natural hiftory, and fvirnifhed fuch
opportunities of teaching us how to preferve the healths
and lives of feamen, let us not forget another very impor-
tant objedt of ftudy, for which they have afforded to the
ipecidative philofopher ample material ; : I mean the Ihidy
of human nature in various fituations, equally interefting'
as they are uncommon.

However remote or fecluded from frequent intercourfe
with more polifhed nations, the inhabitants of any parts of
tlic world be, if hiftory or our own obfervation fhould make
it evident that they have been formerly vifited, and that
foreign manners and opinions, and languages, have been
blended with their own, little ufe can be made of what is
obit rved amongft fuch people, toward drawing a real pic-
ture of man in his natural uncultivated ftate. This feems
to be the fituation of the inhabitants of moft of the iilands
that lie contiguous to the continent of Afia, and of whofe
manners and inltitutions the Europeans, who occafionally
vifit them, have frequently given us accounts. But the
iflands which our enterprizing difcoverers vifited in the
centre of the Smth Pacific Ocean, and are, indeed, the prin-
cipal fccnes of their operations, were imtrodden ground.
The inhabitants, as far as could be obferved, were unmixed
with any different tribe, by occafional intercourfe, fubfe-

i 2 quent

Ixvii

Ixviii

INTRO iJUCTION.

'■"• 'tti

i!l

"A ^

lilt i

11 ^

''' • i

! «

qucnt to their oni^inal rcttlemeiu there ; left entirely to
their own jw)\vers for every iut of life; and to their own re-
mote traditions for every jxilitical or religions ciiftom or in-
lUtution ; iininfornKd by fcience; unimproved by educa-
tion ; in fliort, a fit foil from whence a c arefid obili ver
could coUcdl t\i£ts for forming a jndgment, how far unaf-
lilled human nature will be apt to degenerate ; and in what
refpedts it can ever be able to excel. Who could have thought,
that the brvital ferocity of feeding upon human flclh, and
the horrid fuperllition of ofFermg human facrifices, fliould
be found to exilt amongll the natives lately difcovercd in
the Pacific Ocean, who, in other rcfpcifls, appear to be my
llrangers to the fine feelings of humanity, to have arrived
at a certain llagc of focial life, and to be habituated to fub-
ordination and government, which tend fo naturally to re-
prefs the ebullitions of wihl pallion, and expand the latent
powers of the underftanding ?

Or, if we turn from this melancholy pidurc, which will
fuggell copious matter for philofophical fpeculation, can
we, without allonifiiment, obferve to w hat a degree of per-
fection the fame tribe (and indeed we may here join, in
fome of thofe inftances, the American tribes vifited in the
courfe of the prefent voyage) have carried their favourite
amufements, the plaintive fongs of their women, their dra-
matic entertainments, their dances, their Olympian games,
as we may call them ; the orations of their Chiefs ; the
chants of their priefts ; the folemnity of their religious pro-
cefiions ; their arts and manufatflurcs ; their ingenious con-
trivances to fupply the want of proper materials, and of effec-
tive tools and machines ; and the wonderful produflions of
their perfevering labour under a complication of difadvan-
tp.ges ; their cloth and their mats ; thek weapons ; their fifli-

•''/'

INTRODUCTION.

Ixix

ing-inftrumcnts ; their ornaments ; their uttnfils ; which in
tlefi'jin and in execution, may vie with whatever modern
Europe, or claHical anticjuity tan exhibit ?

It is a favourite Ihuly with the fcholar to trace the re-
mains of CJrecian or Roman workmanlhip ; he turns over
liis Montfaucon with learned fatisfaition ; and he gazes
with rapture on the noble collctStion of Sir William Hamil-
ton. The amiifement is rational and inftrudtive. But will
not his curiolity be more awakened, will he not find even
more real matter for important reflection, by palling an
hour in furveyin^j, the numerous fpecimens of the inge-
nuity of our newly-dilcovcrcd friends, brought from the
utmort rcceffes of the globe, to enrich the Britifh Mufeum,
and the valuable repofitory of Sir Afliton Lever ? If the
curiofities of Sir Afhton's Sandwich-room alone, were the
only accjuiiltion gained by our vifits to the Pacific Ocean,
who that has tafte to admire, or even eyes to behold, could
hefitate to pronounce, that Captain Cook had not failed
in vain ? The expence of his three voyages did not, per-
haps, far exceed that of digging out the buried contents
of Herculancum. And we may add, that the novelties
of the Society or Sandwich Iflands, feem better calculated
to engage the attention of the lludi is in our times, than
the antiquities^ which exhibit pr " Roman magni-

ficence.

The grounds for making thi i ,ilv cannot be better

explained, than in the words of ;. !\ -igenious writer:
»' In an age (lays Mr. Warton *), ad aa^ed to the highett
" degree of refinement, that fpecies of curiofity com-
" menccs, \/hich is bufied in contemplating the progrefs
" of fecial life, in diipla ying the gradation of fcicnce,' and

• Preface to hi-, Hiftory of Englifh Poetry.

"Ms

ii jiF

:|:

\%i ■ '?i

li !l;

L k

I'?

P^*i:

((

\KK« INTRODUCTION.

" in tracing the tranlition from barbarifm to civility.
" That thefe fpeculations fliould become the favourite to-
" pics of fuch a period is extremely natuial. We look
" back on the favage condition of our anceltors with the
" triumph of fupcriority; and are plcafed to mark the
** fteps by which we have been raifed from rudenefs to
" elegance ; and our refledtions on this fubje<5t are accom-
" panied with a confcious pride, arifmg, in a great mea-
** fure, from a tacit comparifon of the infinite difpropor-
tion between the feeble efforts of remote ages, and our
prefent improvements in knowledge. In the mean time,
** the manners, monuments, cuftoms, pra<5tices, and opi-
" nions of antiquity, by forming fo ftrong a contraft with
** thofe of our own times, and by exhibiting human na-
** ture and human inventions in new lights, in unexpected
" appearances, and in various forms, are obje<Sts which
" forcibly ftrike a feeling imagination. Nor does this fpec-
" tacle afford nothing more than a fruitlefs gratification
to the fancy. It teaches us to fet a juft eftimation on
our own acquifitions, and encourages us to cherifh that
** cultivation, which is fo clofely connedled with the exilt-
" ence and the exercife of every focial virtue." We need
not here obferve, that the manners, monuments, cuftoms,
praSfices, and opinions of the prefent inhabitants of the
Pacific Ocean, or of the Weft fide of North America,
form the ftrongejl contrajl with thofe of our own time
in polilhed Europe ; and that a feeling imagination will
probably be more ftruck with the narration of the cere-
monies of a Natcbe at Tongataboo, than of a Gothic
tournament at London ; with the contemplation of the
cololTufes of Eafter Illand, than of the myfterious remains
of Stonehenge.

Many

((

ii,.

INTRODUCTION.

Ixxi

Many fingularities, refpe<5ling what may be called the
natural hiicory of the human fpecies, in different climates^
will, on the authority of our late navigators, open abun-
dant fources for philofophical difcuflion. One queftion of
this fort, in particular, which had formerly divided the
opinions of the inquifitive, as to the exiftence, if not of
" giants on the earth," at leaft of a race (inhabiting a dif-
tridt bordering on the North lide of the ftrait of Magal-
haens), whofe ftature confiderably exceeds that of the bulk
of mankind, will no longer be doubted or difbelieved.
And the ingenious objections of the fceptical author of
Recbercbes fur les Americains *, will weigh nothing in the
balance againft the concurrent and accurate teftimony of
Byron, Wallis, and Carteret.

Perhaps there cannot be a more interefting inquiry than
to trace the migrations of the various famiUes or tribes
that have peopled the globe ; and in no refpedl have our
late voyages been more fertile in curious difcoveries. It
was known in general (and I Ihall ufe the words of
Kaempfer f ), that the Afiatic nation called Malayans, " in
" former times, had by much the greateft trade in the In-
" dies, and frequented with their merchant Ihips, not only
" all the coafts of Alia, but ventured even over to the
" coafts of Africa, particularly to the great idand of Ma-
" dagafcar |. The title which the king of the Malayans

" aflumed

• Torn. i. p. 331.

f Hiftory of Japan, Vol. i. p. 93.

X That the Malayans have not only frequ ented Madagafcar, but have alfo been the
progenitors of fome of the prefent race of inhabitants there, is confirmed to us by the
teftimony g', Monfieur dc Pages, who vifited that ifland fo late as 1774. " lis m'ont
" paru provenir des diverfes Races ; leur couleur, leurs cheveux, et leur corps I'indif
" quent. Ceux que je n'ai pas cru originaircs des anciens naturels du pays, font petits

pi?' j

:.¥

^ '•

\
\ ■

:;i

Ixxii INTRODJGTION.

*< affumed to himfelf, of Lord of the Winds and Seas t9
<' the Eajl and to the IVeJl, is an evident proof of this ;
" but much more the Malayan language, which fpread
*' moft all over the Eaft, much after the fame manner as
" formerly the Latin, and of late the French, did all over
*' Europe." Thus far, I fay, was known. But that from
Madagafcar to the Marquefes and Eafter Illand, that is,
nearly from the Eaft fide of Africa, till we approach to-
ward the Weft fide of America, a fpace including above
half the circumference of the globe, the fame :ribe or na-
tion, the Phoenicians, as -we may call them, of the Oriental
world, fhould have made their fettlements, and founded
colonies throughout almoft every intermediate ftage of this
immcnfc tra(5l, in iflands at amazing diftances from the
mother continent, and ignorant of each other's exiftence ;
this is an hiftorical fadl, which could be but very imper-
fetftly know n before Captain Cook's two firft voyages difco-
vered io many new inhabited fpots of land lurking in the
bolbm of the South Pacific Ocean ; and it is a fadl which
does not reft folely on fimilarity of cuftoms and inftitutions,
but has been eftabliflicd by the moft fatisfa6tory of all
proofs, that drawn fj'om afBnity of language. Mr. Marfden,
who feems to have confidered this curious fubjeifl with
much attention, fays, that the links of the latitudinal chain
}'emain yet to be traced'''. The difcovcry of the Sandwich

Illands

*' et trapus ; ils ont Ics che\'eux prefque uiiis, et font elivatns comme les Malayes,
" avec qui ih ont, en gaifia/, me ijpm de nfemblanci." — Voyagci des M. des Pages,
T, ii. p. 90.

♦ Archajolog. Vol. vi, p. 155. Sec alfo his Hiftory of Sumatra, p. 166. from which
the following puHagq is tranfcribcd. " Befidcs thi Malayc, there are a variety of Irn-
•' guages fpokcii on Sumatra, which, however, have not only a manifeft affinity among

" tlieiiifclvcs,

INTRODUCTION.

niands in this laft voyage, has added fome Hnks to the
chain. But Captain Cook had not an opportunity of carry-
ing his refearches into the more Wefterly parts of the North
Pacific. The Reader, therefore, of the following work will
not, perhaps, think that the Editor was idly employed when
he fubjoined fome notes, which contain abundant proof
that the inhabitants of the Ladrones, or Marianne illands,
and thofe of the Carolines, are to be traced to the fame
common fource, with thofe of the iflands vifitcd by our
lliips. With the like view, of exhibiting a ftriking picture
of the amazing extent of this Oriental language, which
marks, if not a common original, at leaft an intimate inter-
courfe between the inhabitants of places lb very remote
from each other, he has infertcd a comparative table of
their numerals, upon a more enlarged plan than any that
has hitherto been t .ecuted -.

Our Britifli difcoverers have not only thrown a blaze of
light on the migrations of the tribe which has fo wonder-
fully Ipread itfelf throughout the iflands in the Eaftern
Ocean ; but they have alfo favoured us with much curious
information concerning another of the families of the earth,

" themfelves, but alfo to that general language which is found to prevail in, and to be
" indigenous • ,-, all the iflands of the Eaftern feas ; from Madagafcar to the remoteft of
" Captain Cook's difcoveries, comprehending a wider extent than the Roman or any
" other tongue has yet boafted. In different places, it has been more or lefs mixed and
" corrupted ; but between the moft diflimilar branches, an eminent famenefs of many
" radical words is apparent ; and in fome very diftant from each other, in point of fi-
" tUiicion : As, for inftance, the Philippines and Madagafcar, the deviation of the words
" is fcarcely more than is obferved in the dialects of neighbouring provinces of the fame
" kingdom."

* V\'c are indebted to Sir Tofeph Banks, for a general out-line of this, in Hawkef-
worth'i Collcdtion, Vol, iii. p. 777. The Reader will find our enUrged Table at the
end of tin; third volume, Appendix, N° 2.

Ixxiii

.. ^H

1? J;

I',

Vol. I.

whofc

frfW

i :':

i !'

■J

U:.^^

Ixxiv INTRODUCTION.

v/hofe lot has fallen in lefs hofpitable climates. We fpeak
of the Efquimaux, hitherto only found feate<l on the coafts
of Labradore and Hudfon's Bay, and who differ in levefal
charaiSleriftic nnarks from the inland inhabitants of North
America. That the Grcenlanders and they agree in every
circiimftance of culloms, and manners, and language, which
are demonftrations of an or'ginal identity of nation, had
been difcovered about twenty years ago ■'■. Mr. Hearne, in
1 77 1, traced this unhappy race farther back, toward that
part of the globe from whence they had originally coafted
along in their fkin boats, having met with fome of them at
the mouth of the Copper -mine River, in the latitude of 72°,
and near five hundred leagues farther Weft than Pickerf-
gill's moft Wefterly ftation in Davis's Strai neir being

the fame tribe who now ad:ually inhabi' illands and

coafts on the Weft fide of North America, o\) .lite Kamt-
fchatka, was a difcovery, the completion of which was
referved for Captain Cook. The Reader of the follow-
ing work will find them at Norton Sound ; and at Oona-
laihka, and Prince William's Sound; that is, near 1500
leagues diftant from their ftations in Greenland, and on
the Labradore coaft. And left fimilitude of manners
fhould be thought to deceive us, a table exhibiting proofs
of affinity of language, which was drawn up by Captain
Cook, and is inferted in this work t, will remove every

♦ Sec Crantz's Hiftory of Greenland, Vol. i. p. 262 ; where we are told that the
Moravian Brethren, who, with the confcnt and furtherance of Sir Hugh I'ailifer, then Go-
vernor of Newfoundland, vifitcd the Kfquimaux on the Labradore coaft, found that their
language, and that of the Ci reenlandcrs, do not differ fo much as that of the High and
Low Dutch.

t See Appendix, N° 6. The Grcenlanders, as Crantz tells us, call thenifelves Ku~
ralit ; a word not very unlike Kanagyji., the name afTumcd by the inhabitants of Kodiack,
one of the Sthumagin illands, as Staehlin informs us,

doubt

INTRODUCTION.

doubt from the mind of the moft fcrupulous inquirer after
truth.

There are other doubts of a more important kind, which,
it may be hoped, will now no longer perplex the ignorant,
or furnifh matter of cavil to the ill-intentioned. A fter the
great difcovery, or at leaft the full confirmation of the great
difcovery, of the vicinity of the two continents of Alia and
America, we truft that we Ihall not, for the future, be ridi-
culed, for believing that the former could eafily furnilh its
inhabitants to the latter. And thus, to all the various good
purpofes already enumerated, as anfwered by our late voy-
ages, we may add this laft, though not the leaft important,
that they have done fervice to religion, by robbing infide-
lity of a favourite objedlion to the credibility of the Mof'aic
account of the peopling of the earth ^^.

6, Hitherto we have cc fidered our voyages as having be-
nefited the dijcoverers. Bui 't will be afked. Have they con-
vey ed» or are they likely ever to convey, any benefit to the
dffcn^s.-red ? \l would afford exquifite fatisfa(flion to every
berw^rolent mind, to be inftru<5ted in fa6ts, which might
e/i d^le U.H, without hefitation, to anfwer this queftion in the
affirmative. And yet, perhaps, we may indulge the pleaf-
ing hope, tfiMf even in this refpedl, our fhips have not

* A contempt f>f Kevclitu.'// ., goic rally the refult of ignorance, conceited of its pol-
fcfling fiiperior knowledge. Obferve how thi. Author of Recherchcs Phibjcphiques fur la
Amirkalm^ exprefles himfdf on this very point. " Cette diftance que Mr. Antermcny
" veut trouvcr fi peu importantc, c(l .1- peu-prcs de hint cent I'uim Gauloifes au trovers d'un
" ocean perilleiix, ct unpofTihle ;i franchir avcc dcs canots aufli clietifs et aufli fragiles que
" le font, ail rapport d'Yfbrand Ides, les chaloupes des Tungufes," &c. &c. T. i.
p. 1 1;6. Had this writer known that the two continents are not above thirteen leagues
(inftcad of eight hundred) diftant from each other, and tliat, even in that narrow fpacc of
fca, thsre arc intervening iflmids, he would not have ventured to urge tliis argvimcnt in
ftppofition to Mr. Bell's notion of the quarter from whic'.i North America received its
original inhabitants.

k 2 failed

Ixxr

1|
i il

'■i\

Tfl

*-;■!■•

Ixxvi

INTRODUCTION.

If'

if'

Mk.

«• ;.jji

^i^

i ;

■||

'^•1

■ iU

failed in vain. Other difcoveries of new countries have,
in effetSl, been wars, or rather maffacres ; nations have been
no fooner found out, than they have been extirpated ; and
the horrid cruelties of the conquerors of Mexico and Peru
can never be remembered, withoiii Mufhing for religion
and human nature. But when th.. receflcs of the globe
are inveftigated, not to enlarge private dominion, but to pro-
mote general knowledge ; when we vifit new tribes of our
fellow-creatures as friends; and wilh only to learn that they
exift, in order to bring them witliin the pale of the offices
of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfe<5t
Hate of fociety, by communicating to them our fuperior
attainments ; voyages of dillovery planned with fuch bene-
volent views by George rhe Third, and executed by Cook,
have not, we truft, totally failed in this refpedl. Our repeated
vifits, and long-continued intercourfe with the natives of
the Friendly, Society, and Sandwich lilands, cannot but have
darted fome rays of light on the infant minds of thofe poor
people. The uncommon objects they have thus had oppor-
tunities of ol)ferving and admiring, will naturally tend to
enlarge their ilock of ideas, and to fvu-niih new materials
for the exercife of their reafon. Comparing tbcmfelves
with their vifiters, they cannot but be ftruck with the deepell
convidlion of their own inferiority, and be impelled, by
the llrongeft motives, to ftrive to emerge from it, and to
rife nearer to a level with thofe chil(hcn of the Sun who
deigned to look upon them, and left behind fo many fpcci-
mens of their generous and humane attention. The very
introduction of our ufeful animals and vegetables, by add-
ing frefli means of fubliltence, will have added to their com-
forts of life, and immediate enjoyments ; and if this be the
only benefit they are ever to receive, who will pronomicc

that

•.^

INTRODUCTION.

that much has not been gained ? But may we not carry
our willies and our hopes ftill farther ? Great Britain it-
felf, when firft vilited by the Phoenicians, was inhabited by
painted Savages, not, perhaps, bleffed with higher attain-
ments than are poflelTed by the prefent natives of New Zea-
land ; certainly lefs civilized than thofe of Tongataboo or
Otaheite. Our having opened an intercourfe with them, is
the firfl: ftep toward their improvement. Who knows, but
that our late voyages may be the means appointed by Pro-
vidence, of fprcading, in due time, the blellings of civi-
lization amongft the numerous tribes of the South Pacific
Ocean ; of abolifliing their horrid rcpalts and their horrid
rites ; and of laying the foundation for future and more
effedtual plans, to prepare them for holding an honourable
ftation amongft the nations of the earth ? This, at leaft, is
certain, that our having, as it were, brought them into ex-
iftence by our extenfive refearches, will fuggeft to us freili
motives of devout gratitude to the Supreme Being, for hav-
ing bleffed vis with advantages hitherto withheld from fo
great a proportion of the liviman race; and will operate
powerfully to incite us to pcrfevere in every feafible at-
tempt, to be his inftruments in refcuing millions of fellow-
creatures from their prefent ftatc of humiliation.

Ixxvii

The feveral topics, which occurred, as fuitable to this ge-
neral Introdudion, being now difcuffed, nothing remains
but to ftatc a few particulars, about which the reader of
thefc volumes has a right to expcift fomc information.

Captain Cook, knowing, before he failed upon this laft
expedition, that it was expedled from him to relate^ as well
as to execute^ its operations, had taken care to prepare fuch
a journal as might be made uie of for publication. This

journal,

) ;

IV ;l

Ixxviii INTRODUCTION.

journal, which cxilh in his own hand-writing, has been
faithfully adhered to. It is not a bare extradl from his log-
books, but contains many remarks which, it appears, had
not been inferted by him in the nautical rcgifter ; and it is
iilfo enriched with confidcralilc communications from Mr.
Anderfon, Surgeon of the Pefolution. The confeflcd abi-
litiC: , and great afliduity, of Mr. AndcHon, in obfcrving
every thing that related either to nat\iral hiilory, or to
manners and language; and the delirc which, it is well
known. Captain Cook, on all occafions, flicwed to have
the affiftance of that gentleman, ilampcd a great value on
his colledlions. That nothing, therefore, might be want-
ing to convey to the Public the bell poflililc account of the
tranfadlions of the voyage, his joun.al, by the order of
Lord Sandwich, was alfo put into the hands of the Editor,
who was authorized and tliredted to avail himielf of the
information it might be *bund to contain, about matters
imperfedtly touched, or altogether omitted, in Captain
Cook's manufcript. This talk has been executed in fuch
a manner, that the reader will fcarcely ever be at a lofs to
diftinguifh in what inftances recourfe has been had to Mr.
Anderfon. To preclude, if poflible, any miftakc, the copy
of the firft and fecond volumes, before it went to the
printer, was fubnMttcd to Captain King; and after it had
been read over and c()rre<5led by one fo well qualified to
point out any inaccuracies, the Earl of Sandwich had the
goodncfs to give it a perufal. As to the third volume, no-
thing more need be laid, than that it was completely pre-
paixxl for the prefs by Captain King himfelf. All that
the Eiiitor ot the work has to anfwer for, are the notes oc-
cafionally introduced in the courfe of the two volumes,
contributed by Captain Cook ; and this introdudion, which

was

INTRODUCTION.

was intended as a kind of epilogue to our Voyages of dif-
covery. He mult be permitted, however, to fay, that he
confiders himfelf as intitled to no inconfidcrablc fhare of
candid indulgence from the Public ; having engaged in a
very tedious and troubleforae undertaking upon the moft
dlftnterejled motives ; his only reward being the fatisfacftion
he feels, in having been able to do an eflentiul fcrvicc to the
family of our great navigator, who had honoured him, in
the journal of this voyage, with the appellation of Friend,

':hey who have repeatedly afked why this piiblication
has been fo long delayed, need only look at the volumes, and
their attendant illuftrations and ornaments, to be fatisfied
that it might, with at leaft equal reafon, be wondered at,
tnat it has not been delayed longer. The journal of Captain
Cook, from the firft moment that it came into the hands of
the Editor, had been ready for the Prefs ; and Captain King
had left with him his part of the narrative, fo long ago as
his departure for the Weil Indies, when he commanded the
Refiftance man of war. But much, befidcs, remained to be
done. The charts, particularly the general one, were to be
pi-ci)arcd by Mr. Roberts, who gives an account of his work
in the note * ; the very nupioi'r>Ms and elegant drawings of

' ^h^

* Soon after our departure from England, I was inftrufled by Captain Cook to com-
pki ■ ■• m;jp of tiie world as a y,eneral chart, from the beft materials he was in poireinon
(V for that purpofe ; and before his death this bufmefs was in a great meafure accom-
plifhed : That is, the grand outline of the whole was arranged, leaving only thofe parts
vacant or unfinifhed, which he cxpefted to fall in with and explore. But on our return
home, when the fruits of o'lr voyage were ordered by tlie Lords CommifTioners of the
A dmiralty to be publilhed, the care of the general chart being configned to me, I was
c retted to prepare it from the lateft and beft authorities ; and alfo to introduce Captain
Cook's three fucceflive tracks, that all his difcoveries, and the different routes he had
takjn, might appear together ; by this means to give a general idea of the whole. This
tafk having been performed by me, it is neccllary, for the information of the Reader, to
3 flate

Jxxix

IX'^X

INTRODUCTIO 1/.

( ,'

II:

Mr. Webber were to be rc'ucetl by him to the proper fize;
artifts w ere next to be fomul out who would undertake to

en^r?.vc

ftatc the heads of the fcvcral authorities which I ha\c foIluwcJ in fuch parts of the chart
as differ from what wa.s drawn up immediately under the infpe£lion of Captain Coolt :
And when the J'ublic are made acquainted, that many material-., i\cccflary to complete
and elucidate the work, were not, at the time, on board the Rcfolution, or in his poflef-
fion, the rcafon will appear very obvious, why thefc alterations and additions were in-
troduced contrary to the original drawing.

Firft then, I have followed clofely the very excellent and corretfl charts of the Nortliern
Atlantic Occ;ui, publifhed by Meilis, de Verdun de la Creiine, de iJorda, et I'ringre, in
1775 and 1776 ; which comprife the coaft of Norway from the Sud Hoek, in the lati-
tude of 62 degrees North, to Trclleburg, Denmark, the coaft of Holland, North coafl
of Great Britain, Orkneys, Shetland, Ferro Ifles, Iceland, coafts of ]■' ranee, Spain, and
Portugal, to Cape St. .Maria on the coaft of Africa; including the Azores, Canaries,
Cajie dc Verd, Antilles, and Weft India iflands from Barbadoes to the Eall end of Cuba ;
the North part of Newfoundland and the Labradore coaft, as far as the latitude of 57
degrees North.

Ireland, and part of the coaft of Scotland, is laid down from Mr. Mackenzie's late
furvcys ; and the Ibuth coaft of England from a ch;u-t publiftied by Mr. Faden in 1780,
taken fiom Mr. I'Abbe Dicquemare.

The North part of the coaft of Labradore, from the latitude of 57° North, to Button's
Iflands in the entrance of Hudfon's Strait, is t.iken from Monfieur Bellin's chart, as is
alfo the North coaft of Norway and Lapland, including the \N'hitc Sea, Gulf of Bothnia,
Baltic Sea, and the Eafl coaft of Greenland.

The Gulf of Finland, from a large (MS) chart, now engraving for the ufe of tome
private merchants.

The Weft India iflands, from the Eaft end of Cuba to the Weft end, including Ja-
maica and the Bahama iflands, are from a cliart publifhed in London by Sayer and Ben-
nett, in 1779.

The South fide of Cuba, from Point Gorda toCajK- de Cruz, is laid down from Mon-
fieur Bellin, in 1762.

The coafts of Newfoundland, and the (nilf of St. Laurence, from the furveys madu
by Captain Cook, and Mefl'rs. Ciilbert and Lane.

Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Ifland of St. John, River St, Laurence, Canada, and New
England to the River Delaware, from J. F. \V. des Banes, Efq; in 1777 and 1778 ;
and charts publiftied in France by order of the King, in 1780, intituled, Neptune
Americo-Scptentrion:d, kc. And from thefe charts alio are taken tlie coalh of J'en-
fyivania, Nev/ Jerfey, Maryland, Virginia, North and South Caroliiii;, Georgia, 1 afl

aud

INTRODUCTION.

engrave them ; the prior enga,q;ements of thofe artifts were
to be fulfilled before they could begin ; the labour and (kill

and \Veft Florida, as well as the interior parts of the country to the Eaft fide of Lake
Ontario.

Th other parts of this lake, as likewife Lakes Eria, Hurons, Michigan, and Superior,

wriT ipied from Mr. Green's iniips of America : The Northern "of this lad-men-

tioi kc is fixed from the allronomical obfervations made by «>■■.;;. , lludfon's Bay

at Mifliippicottoii Houfe.

"' ' • of Hudfon's Bay I took from a chart, compiled ■ Aii ?■ ;e/, from all the

maps he could procure of thofe parts, with which I was favoured by Samuel

'. R. S. and Governor of that Company, who alfo politely furniihcd mc with

Ai. . .cariic's Journals, and the map of his route to the Copper-mine River, which is

faithfully infertcd on the chart, together with the furvey of Cheflerfield Inlet madebyCap-

t.iin Chriftopher and Mr. Mofes Norton, in 1762 ; and the difcovcriss from York Fort

to Cumberland, and Hudfon Houfes (this laft is the moft VVefternfcttlement belonging to

the Company), extending to Lake Winipeg, from the drafts of Mr. Philip Tumor, made

ini778 and 1779, corrected by aftronomical obfervations. And from this lake, the difpo-

fition of the other lakes to the Southward of it, and which communicate with it, is formed,

and laid down from a map conftrudlcd by Mr. Spurrcl, in the Company's fervicc. The

Albany and Moofc rivers to (Jlouccfter Houfe, and to Lake Abbitibbc and Superior, are

alfo drawn from a map of Mr. Tumor's, adjufted by obfervations for the longitudes.

The W'eft coaft of Greenland, is chiefly laid down from the obfervations made by
Lieut. R. Picktrfgill in the Lion brig in 1776, which determine the line of the coall
only, as the immcnfe quantities of ice choak up every bay ;uid inlet on this coall, which
formerly were, in the fuinmer feafon, quite free and oiK;n.

From the mouth of the Miflifippi River, including its fourcc, and the other rivers
branching from it ; all the coaft of New Leon to Cape Rozo, and the Wcftern coaft of
America, from Cajie Corrientcs to the Great Bay of Tccoantejiec, is taken from JMon-
fieur D'Anville.

The Gulf of California I have laid down from a German publication in 1773, put into
my hands by Sir Jofeph Banks, Bart. P. R. S. ; and the Wcftern fide of it is brought to-
gether from a Sp.inilh MS. cliart, with which A. Dalryinplc, Efq; F. R. S. obliged mc.

The coaft of Brazil, from Sera to Cape Frio, is copied from a fmall chart of ihat piut
by Mr. Dalrt'mple.

For the Southern pait of Africa, from the Cape of Good Mope to Point Natal, I ha\c
taken the authority of the chart of Major J. Renncls, F. R. S. fticwing the extent of the
bank of LaguUus.

For the exiftence of the fmall iflands, (hoais, and banks to the Ealb.vard of Madagafcar,

together with the Archijielago of the Maldive and Laccidivc I (lands j for the coafts of

Vol. I. 1 Malacca,

Ixxx*

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

s !^ IIL

I'o i|2.0

12.2

U III 1.6

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 873-4503

1 .;f

i.n

[■

I ■

i'^^'

^'^;

■':»W

Ixxxii INTRODUCTION.

to be exerted in finifliing many of them, rendered this a
tedious operation ; paper fit for printing them upon was to
be procured from abroad ; and after all thefe various and
unavoidable difficulties were furmounted, much time was
neceflarily required for executing a numerous impreflipn of
the long lilt of plates, with fo much care as might do juftice
both to Mr. Weblxir, and to his feveral engravers. When
all thefe circumftances are taken into confideration, we truft

Malacca, part of Cambodia, and the Ifland Sumatra, I have ufed the lateft authority of
Monfieur D'Apres de Manne\ illctte's publications in the Neptune Oriental.

The coafts of Guzerat, Malabar, Coromandel, and the oppofite fhore, contaifiing the
Great Bay of Bengal, and the llland of Ceylon, and exhibiting the Heads of the Ganges,
and Barampooter or Sanpoo Rivers, are inferted from tlie work of the ingenious Author
of the map of Hindooftan, publifhed in 1782.

The China fea is laid down from the chart publifhed by Mr. DalrjTnple ; but the longi-
tudes of Pulo Sapata, Pulo Condore, Pulo Timoan, Straits of Banca and Sunda, and the
parts we faw, are as fettled by us, together with the Eaft coaft of Niphon, the principal of
the Japancfe Iflands.

The Jefo and Kurile iflands, the Eaft coaft of Afia and Kamtfchatka, as well as the fea
of Okot(k, and the iflands lying between Kamtfchatka and America that were not feen in
the voyage, are taken from a Ruflian MS. chart, got by us at the Ifland of Oonalafhka.

The Northern countries from Cape Kanin, near the White Sea, as far Eaft as the Ri-
ver Lena, I have given from the Great Ruflian Map, publifhed at Peterfburg in 1776,
including the Euxine, Cafpian, and Aral Seas, as alfo the principal lakes to the Eaftward ;
the intent of which is to fhew the fource of the large rivers that empty themfelves into
the different oceans and Teas.

Every other part of the chart not mentioned in this account, is as originally placed by
Captain Cook.

The whole has been corrcfled from the lateft aftronomical obfcrvations, fcledled from
the Tables compiled by Mr.William Wales, F. R. S. and mathematical mafter of Chrift's
Hofpital, for the Nautical Almanacs ; From thofe in the Mariner's Guide by the Rev. Dr.
Maflcelyne, F. R. S. and Aftronomer Royal, publiflied in 1763 ; From the ConnoIfEince
des Temps for 1780 and 1781 ; From ProfefTor Mayer's Geographical Table; From
the Voyages of MefTrs. d'Evcux de Fleurieu, Verdun, de Borda, and Chabet, &c. ; From
the Table lately publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple for the ufe of the Eaft India fhips ; From
the Philofophical Tranfaftions of the Royal Society ■ and firom the Obfervations of our
late Navigators.

HEN». ROBERTS.
Shoreham, Sussex, May 18, 1784.

that

INTRODUCTION.

that we ftiall hear no more of the delay ; and only be grate-
ful to that munificent Patron of Science, who not only di-
redted the hiftory of the voyage to be publifhed ; but to be
publifhed with fuch a fplendid train of ornaments, at the
public expence, as will ftill add to the merit of having or-
dered the voyage itfelf to be undertaken. (. . '

And here it feems to be incumbent upon us to add, as
another inftance of munificent attention, that care has been
taken to mark, in the moft fignificant manner, the juft fenfe
entertained of the humane and liberal relief afforded to our
fiiips in Kamtfchatka. Colonel Behm, the commandant of
that province, has not been rewarded merely by the plea-
fure which a benevolent mind feels in reflecting upon the
blefl[ings it confers ; but has been thanked in a manner
equally confiftent with the dignity of his own fovereign
and of ours, to whofe fubjedts he extended protedlion. A
magnificent piece of plate was prefented to him, with an
infcription, worthy of a place in the fame book where the
hiftory of his humanity to our countrymen is recorded, and
which, while it does honour to our national gratitude, de-
ferves alfo to be preferved as a monument of our national
tal^.e for elegant compofition. It is as follows :

Ixxxiii

'1 1

1 1 'fVcW

ViRO EGREGio MAGNO DE Behm ; qut, Imperatrtcis Augvf-
tijfimce Catharine aufpiciis, fummaque animi benignitate, Java, qtiibus
preeerat, Kamtfchatka Ihtora, navibus nautifquh Britannicis, ho/pita
prabuit ; eofque, in term nis,Jt qui ejjent Imperio RuJJico,fruJlra explo-
randis, mala multa perpejfos, iteratdvice excepit, refecit, recreavit, ct
commeatu omni cumulate auSlos dimijit ; Rei navalisBritannic^
Septemviri in aliquam benevolentice tarn infignis memoriam, amicif-
Jimo, gratijjimoque animo, fuo, patriaque nomine, D. D. D.

MDCCLXXXI.

1 2

This

'*'

'ii^'

r 1^1

rtN

Ixxxiv INTRODUCTION.

• This teftimony of public gratitude, reminds the Editor,
that there are iimilar calls upon himfelf. He owes much
to Captain King for his advice and direction, in a variety of
inftances, where Captain Cook's Journal recjuired explana-
tion ; for filling up feveral blanks with the proper longi-
tude and latitVile; and for fupplying deficiencies in the
tables of aftronomical obfervations.

Lieutenant Roberts was alfo frequently confulted, and
was always found to be a ready and effectual affiftant, when
any nautical difiiculties were to be cleared up.

But particular obligations are due to Mr. Wales, who,
befides the valuable communications which have been
adopted in this Introdudlion, feconded moft liberally the
Editor's views of ferving Mrs. Cook, by cheerfully taking
upon himfelf the whole trouble of digefting, from the log-
books, the tables of the route of the lliips, which add fo
greatly to the utility of this publication.

Mr. Wegg, befides Iharing in the thanks fo juftly due to
the committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, for their un-
referved communications, was particularly obliging to the
Editor, by giving him repeated opportunities of converfing
Avith Governor Hearne, and Captain Chriftopher.

The Honourable Mr. Daines "^rrington had the good-
nefs to intereft himfelf. witi' ufual zeal for every

work of public utility, in procuring fome neceflary in-
formation, and fuggefting fome valuable liints which were
adopted. ■« .

It would be great injuftice not to exprefs our acknow-
ledgments to Mr. Pennant, who, befides enriching the third
volume with references to his Ar^iic Zoology^ the publica-
tion of which will be an important acceflion to Natund
Hiftory, alfo communicated fome very authentic and fatis-
fadtory manuicript accounts of the Ruffian difcoveries.

The

\-l

ili

introduction;

The vocabularies of the Friendly and Sandwich Iflands,
and of the natives of Nootka, had been furnilhed to Cap-
tain Cook, by his moft ufeful aflociate in the^voyage, Mr.
Anderfon; and a fourth, in which the language of the
Efquimaux is compared with that of the Americans on the
oppolite lide of the continent, had been prepared by the
Captain himfelf. But the comparative Table of Numerals,
which is marked N° 2. in the Appendix, was very obli-
gingly drawn up, at the requeft of the Editor, by Mr.
Bryant, who, in his ftudy, has followed Captain Cook,
and, indeed, every traveller and hiftorian, of every age,
into every part of the globe. The Public will conlider this
Table as a very ftriking illuftration of the wonderful mi-
grations of a nation, about whom fo much additional in-
formation has been gained by our voyages, and be ready to
acknowledge it as a very ufeful communication.

One more communication remains to be not only ac-
knowledged, but to be inferted at the clofe of this Intro-
diidion. The tejlimonies . of learned contemporaries, in
commendation of a deceafed Author, are frequently dif-
played in the front of his book. It is with the greateft
propriety, therefore, that we prefix to this pofthumous
work of Captain Cook the tejUmony of one of his own
profeflion, not more diftinguilhed by the elevation of
rank, than by the dignity of private virtues. As he wiflies
to remain concealed, perhaps this allufion, for which we
int^reat his indulgence, may have given too exadt direc-
tion to the eyes of the Public where to look for fuch a
character. Let us, however, reft fatisfied with the intrinfic
merit of a compofition, conveyed under the injuncSlion
of fecrecy ; and conclude our long preliminary diflertation
w ith exprefling a wilh, or rather a well-grounded hope,

that

IXXKV

texxvi

INTRODUCTION.

V,/ I

*!■

IfiM ,,

that this voUime may not be the only place where pofte-
rity can meet with a monumental infcription, commemo-
rative of a man, in recounting and applauding whofe fer-
vices, the whole of enlightened Europe will equally concur
with Great Britain.

T O

4 1^ [ Ixxxvii 3 ( / ,

:"A}:tt

■ fy: ■ - - J . 1 ,

TO THE MEMORY OF

Captain JAMES COOK,

The ableft and moft renowned Navigator this
or any country hath produced.

JLTE rai/ed himfelf, folely by his merits from a very obfcure
birtby to the rank of Pofl Captain in the royal navy,
and was, unfortunately, killed by the Savages of the ijland
Owbyhee, on the i^th of February 1779 ; -ivbicb ijland bs bad,
not long before, difcovered, when profecuting hi: third voyage
round the globe.

He poffeffed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications
requifite for his profeffion and great undertakings ; together
with the amiable and worthy qualities of the befi men.

Cool and deliberate in judging : fagacious in determining :
aStive in executing : fleady and perfevering in enterprifing
from vigilance and unremitting caution : unfubdued by labour,
difficulties, and dif appointments : fertile in expedients : never
wanting prefence of mind : always pojjejjing himfelf, and the
full ufe of a found underflanding.

Mild, jufi, but exaB in difcipline ; be was a father to his
people, who zvere attached to him from affedfion, and obedient
from confidence.

His knowledge, his experience, hisfagacity, rendered bimfo
entirely mafier of his fubjedt, that the greatefl obfiacles were
furmounted, and the mofi dangerous navigations became eafy^
and almofi fafe, under bis diredlion.

10 He

\ m

:.r^

Ixxxviii

INSCRIPTION TO THE

^ ■ f

I' 'i

He explored the Southern bemifphere to a much higher la-
iitude than had ever been reached, and with fewer accidents
than frequently befal tbofe who navigate the coajls of this
ijland.

By his '■tnevolent and unabating attention to the welfare
of his Jbip's company, he dif covered and introduced a fyflem
for the prefervation of the health of feamen in long voyages,
which has proved wonderfully efficacious : for in his fecond voy-
age round the world, which continued upwards of three years,
be lofi only one man by dijlemper, of one hundred and eighteen,
of which his company confjled.

the death of this eminent and valuable man was a lofs to
mankind in general; and particularly to be deplored by every
nation that refpe&s ufeful accomplijhments, that honours fci-
ence, and loves the benevolent and amiable affediions of the
heart. It is flill more to be deplored by this country, which
tnayjuflly boafl of having produced a man hitherto unequalled
for nautical talents ; and that forrozv is farther aggravated
by the refleSlion, that his country zvas deprived of this orna-
ment by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might
have been dreaded, but from whom it ivas not deferved. For,
actuated always by the mofi attentive care and tender com-
pajjion for the fav ages in general, this excellent man was ever
ajfiduoujly endeavouring, by kind treatment, to diffipate their
fears, and court their friend/hip ; overlooking their thefts and
treacheries, and frequently interpojing, at the hazard of his
life, to protedl them from the fttdden refenttnent of his own
injured people,

The objtSl of his lafl mifp.on was to difcover and afcer-
tain the boundaries of Afia and America, and to penetrate in-
to the Northern Ocean by the North Eafi Cape of AJia.

Traveller ! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this
great majler in his profejjion ; whofejkill and labours have en-
larged

MEMORY OF CAPTAIN COOK.

Ixxxix

targed natural pbilofopby ; have extended nautical fcienee ;
and have difclofed the long-concealed and admirable arrange-
ments of the Almighty in the formation of this globe., and., at
the fame time., the arrogance of mortals ^ in prefuming to ac-
count, by their fpeculations, for the laws by which he was
pleafed to create it. It is now difcovered, beyond all doubly
that the fame Great Being who created the univerfe by his
fiat, by the fame ordained our earth to keep ajufl poife, with-
out a correfponding Southern continent — and it does fo! " He
" firetcbes out the North over the empty place, and hangetb
** the earth upon nothing.^'' Job, xxvi. 7.

If the arduous but exaB refearches of this extraordinary
man have not difcovered a new world, they have difcovered
feas unnavigated and unknown before. They have made us
acquainted with ijlands, people and prc,du£iions, of which we
had no conception. And if he has not been fo fortunate as
Americus to give his name to a continent, his pretenjions to
fuch a diflinSiion remain unrivalled; and he will be revered^
while there remains a page of his own modefl account of his
voyages, and as long as mariners and geographers fball be in-
flruBed, by his new map of the Southern hemifphere, to trace
the various courfes and difcoveries he has made.

If public fervices merit public acknowledgments ; if the man
who adorned and raifed the fame of his country is deferving of
honours, then Captain C( ■ f. deferves to have a monument
raifed to bis memory, by a generous and grateful nation.

Virtutis uberrimum alimentum eft honos,

Val. Maximusj Lib. ii. Cap. 6.

'1 . 1-

i' I

Vol. I.

LIST

Ill

' . i

L' ,

F' '

'IV

V • ! < • < . ■^

C xci ]

LIST OF THE PLATES,

With Directions for placing them.

[As many of the Purchafers of this Work may chodfe to prcfervc
the largcr-fized Plates in a feparatc volume in folio, thefc
have been here marked with AfterifltS; and Bookfellers are
cautioned not to have them bound up, with 'he reft of the
Plates, in the places of thefe volumes pointed out by the rc-
fpedtive References, unlefs they receive particular diredlions
for that purpofe.]

V O L. I.

Page Plate N'
I *General Chart exhibiting Captain Cook's

difcoveries - - - I.

51 Chart of Kerguelen's Land, with a fketch of

Prince Edward's Iflands - - II.

61 Sketches of Chriftmas Harbour, and Port

Pallifcr, in Kerguelen's Land - - III.

71 *View of Chriftmas Harbour in Kerguelen's

Land - - - - IV. •

83 Views on the Coaft of Kerguelen's Land f LXXXII.

91 Chart and Views of Van Diemen's Land - V.

96 *A Man of Van Diemen's Land - VI.

101 *A Woman of Van Diemen's Land - VII.

1 09 * An Opoffum of Van Diemen's Land - VIII.

t A few of the Plates art not numbered in the order in which they are to be placed ;
but no inconvenience can enfue, as the references to the Pages of each Volume will
remedy this unavoidable imperfei^ion.

m 2

F^j

V '

I:'

/ liff

-■I ■■ ■

^ I i

xcii LIST OF THE PLATES.

Page Plate N*
117 Plan of Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's

Land - - - - IX.

157 ♦The Infide of a Hippah, in New Zealand X.

173 *A Man of Mangca - - _ XI.

225 Chart of the Friendly Iflands - - XII.

230 ♦View at Annamooka - - XIII.

144 ♦The Reception of Captain Cook in Hapaee XIV.

246 ♦A Boxing Match in Hapaee - - XV.

249 ♦A Night Dance by Men in Hapaee - XVI.

250 ♦A Night Dance by Women in Hapaee - XVII.
264 ♦Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands - XVIII.
277 Sketch of Tongataboo Harbour - - XIX.
312 ♦Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands,

drinking Kava _ - . XX.

314 ♦A Fiatooka or Morai, in Tongataboo - XXI.
337 ♦The Natche, a Ceremony in honour of the

King's Son, in Tongataboo - - XXII.

355 ♦A Woman of Eaoo or Eooa - - XXIII.

VOL. II.

5 Sketches of Mangea, Vol. i. p. 170; — of
Wateeoo, Vol. i. p. 180 j — of Wenofla

ctte. Vol. i. p. 205 J — and of Toobouai - XXIV.

32 ♦A Human Sacrifice in a Afor<7;, in Otaheite XXV.

51 *A young Woman of Otaheite bringing a

prcfent . - - - XXVII.

52 ♦The Body of Tee, a Chief, as preferved af-

ter death, in Otaheite - - XXVI.

58 ♦A Dance, in Otaheite - - XXVIII.

69 ♦A young Woman of Otaheite, dancing - XXIX.
79 Sketch of two Harbours on the North fide

ofEimeo - - - XXX.

205
2S«

LIST OF THE PLATES.

Page Plate N'

91 *A view of Huahcinc . - - XXXL

179 Chridmas Ifland - - - - XXXH.

aoo 'A Moral in Atooi - - - XXXIII.

202 *The InQde of the Houfc in the Morai, in

Atooi .... XXXIV.

♦An Inland View in Atooi - - - XXXV.

Views on the Weft coaft of North America LXXXVI.
269 ♦Chart of the North Weft coaft of North

America, and North Eaft coaft of Afia - XXXVI.

279 Sketch of Nootka Sound - - - XXXVII.

295 ♦A Sea Otter - - .- - XLIII.

301 ♦A Man of Nootka Sound - - - XXXVIII.

303 ♦A Woman of Nootka Sound - - XXXIX.

306 ♦Various Articles at Nootka Set. rd - - XL.

1. A bird, made of wood \ hollow, with ftonet

in the infide, which the Natives fhake
when they dance.

2. A Seal's head, made of wood, worn upon

their heads.

3. A bird's head, compofed of wood and Tea*

thers, alfo worn upon their heads.

4. Another for the fame purpole, and orna-

mented with green talc.

313 ♦View of the Habitations in Nootka Sound XLI.'

317 ♦The Infide of a Houfc in Nootka Sound - XLII.
353 Chart of Cook's River, and Prince William's

Sound - - - - XLIV.

361 ♦A view of Snug Corner Cove in Prince

William's Sound - - - XLV.

367 ♦A Man of Prince William's Sound - - XLVI.

369 *A Woman of Prince William's Sound - XL VII.

xcui

'«F

» V

1 ":'

•Si i .'i

■ jl' ■

mtr.

*e*^ List Of tHE <»LATES.

Page Plate N*
410 Views on the Weft coaft of North America,

to the Weftward of Cook's River - - LXXXVII.

421 *AManof Oonalaflika - - - XLVIII.

422 *A Woman of Oonalalhka - - - XLIX,

423 *Canoes of Oonalafhka - - - L.

424 Sketch of Samganoodha Harbour at the

IHand Oonalafhka . _ _ LV.

446 *The Tfchuktfchi, or Tfchutfki, and their

Habitations - _ - - LI.

456 *Sea Horfes _ _ - _ LII.

/^6o Chart of Norton Sound and Beering's Strait LIII.

470 Views on the coaft of Afia _ - _ LXXXIV.

483 *Inhabitants of Norton Sound, and their

Habitations _ - - _ LIV.

509 *Caps of the Natives of Oonalafhka - - LVI.

5 1 1 *Natives of Oonalafhka, and their Habita-
tions - - _ _ - LVII.

513 *The Infide of a Houfc in Oonalafhka - LVIII.

529 Views of the Sandwich Iflands -. .. . * LXXXIH.

•lit

VOL.

'U.

in.^

I Chart of the Sandwich Iflands, and View of

Karakakooa Bay . . .

13 *An Offering before Captain Cook in the

Sandwich Iflands

17 *Tereoboo or Terreeoboo, King of Owhyhee,

bringing prefents to Captain Cook - -

27 *A Man of the Sandwich Iflands, dancing -

54 * A View of Karakakooa in Owhyhee -

125 * A young Woman of the Sandwich Iflands -

LIX.

- LX.

LXI.
LXII.
LXVIII.
LXIII.

LIST PF THE PIRATES.

Pagp Plate N*

1 26 *A Man of the Sandwich Iflands, with his

helmet . . _ - LXIV.

1 39 *A Canoe of the Sandwich Iflands, the Row-

ers maflced - - - - LXV.

1 40 * A Man of the Sandwich Iflands in a maflc LXV.I.
151 *Various Articles at the Sandwich Iflands - LXVII.

N" I. A wooden Inftrament or Weapon, fct round
widi die teeth of Sharks, with which they
cut up their prifoners. , . ' ; " '

.a. Another, for the fame purpofe.

3, A mufical Inftrument ; the upper part wicker-

work, covered with feathers j the bottom
part a gourd with ftones in it, which the
dancer fhakes about. — See Plate LXII.

4. An Idol upon wicker-work, covered witli

feathers ; the eyes mother of pearl, with a
black nut j the mouth fet with teeth of
dogs.

5, A Bracelet, compofed of the tuflcs of hogs.

6. A wooden Dagger called Pabooab.

184 Sketch of Awatflca Bay in Kamtfchatka - LXIX.

201 *A Man in Kamtfchatka tri^/elliiig in winter LXX.

202 *A Sledge in Kamtfchatka - - - LXXI.
215 *A View at Bolcheretflc or ijolcheretzkoi in

Kamtfchatka LXXII.

*A white Bear - . - . LXXIII.

*A View of the Town and Harbour of St.

Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtfchatka - - LXXIV.

Views on the coaft of Kamtfchatka - - LXXXV.

*A Man of Kamtfchatka - - _ LXXV.

*A Woman of Kamtfchatka - - - LXXVI.
373 *Summer and Winter Habitations in Kamt-
fchatka LXXVII.

Xcv

252
281

358
359

* 'I

Hi' 'I

xcti LISTOFTHEPLATES.

Page . Plate N*

375 *The Infide of a Winter Habitation in

Kamtfchatka - - - - LXXVIII.

395 Chart of the Coaft of Japan - - LXXIX.

407 Sketch of Sulphur Ifland - - . - LXXX.

417 Sketch of the Typa and Macao - - LXXXI.

[N. B. The longitude in thefc Volumes is reckoned from
the meridian of Greenwich, and after paiHng it to the Baft, in
the South Atlantic, is carried on Eafterly beyond the i8oth
degree, to the utmoft extent of the voyage j and back, to the
fame meridian.]

I r .

A VOYAGE

I' )

VOYAGE

TO THE

PACIFIC OCEAN.

BOOK I.

TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE TILL
OUR DEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND.

C H A P. I.

Various Preparations for the Voyage. — Omat's Behaviour
on embarking. — Obfervations for determining the Lon^
gitude of Sheer nefs, and the North Foreland. — Pajfage
of the Refolution from Deptford to Plymouth. — Employ-
ments there. — Complements of the Crews of both Ships,
and Names of the Officers. — Obfervations to fix the Longi-
tude of Plymouth. — Departure of the Refolution.

HAVING, on the ninth Day of February 1776, re-
ceived a commiffion to command his Majefty's
floop the Refohition, I went on board the next day, saturdayT
hoifted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the fame
time, the Difcovery, of three hundred tons burthen, was
Vol. I. B purchafed

February.

:i ; •

;«t^S^

• "'I**

1776.
February.

March.
Saturday 9.

A VOYAGE TO

purchafed into the fervice, and the command of her given
to Captain Gierke, who had been my fecond Lieutenant on
board the Refolution, in my fecond voyage round the world,
from which we had lately returned.

Thefe two fliips were, at this time, in the dock at Dept-
ford, under the hands of the Ihipwrights ; being ordered to
be equipped to make farther difcoveries in the Pacific Ocean,
under my direction.

On the 9th of March, the Refolution was hauled out of
dock into the River ; where we completed her rigging, and
took on board the ftores and provifions requifite for a voy-
age of fuch duration. Both fhips, indeed, were fupplied
with as much of every neceflary article as we could conve-
niently ftow, and with the bell of every kind that could be
procured. And, befides this, every thing that had been
found, by the experience acquired during our former ex-
tenfive voyages, to be of any utility in preferving the health
of feamen, was fupplied in abundance.

It was our intention to have failed to Long Reach on the
6th of May, when a pilot came on board to carry us thither;
but it was the 29th before the wind would permit us to

Thurfday 30. movc ; and the 30th before we arrived at that ftation, where
our artillery, powder, ftiot, and other ordnance ftores were
received.
June. While we lay in Long Reach, thus employed, the Earl of

Sandwich, Sir Hugh Pallifer, and others of the Board of Ad-
miralty, as the laft mark of the very great attention they
had all along (hewn to this equipment, paid us a vifit on

Saturday 8. the 8th of Junc, to examine whether every thing had been
completed conformably to their intentions and orders, and
to the fatisfa<5lion of all who were to embark in the voyage.
They, and fcveral other Noblemen and Gentlemen their

friends,

May.

Monday 6.

■^;

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

friends, honoured me with their company at dinner on that 1776.
day ; and, on their coming on board, and alfo on their go- > ^^^ _j
ing alhore, we faluted them with feventeci guns, and three
cheers.

With the benevolent view of conveying fome permanent
benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other
iflands in the Pacific Ocean, whom we might happen to
vifit, his Majefty having commanded fome ufeful animals
to be carried out, we took on board, on the loth, a bull, Monday 10.
two cows with their calves, and fome flieep, with hay and
corn for their fubfiftence ; intending to add to thefe, other
ufeful animals, when I Ihould arrive at the Cape of Good
Hope.

I was alfo, from the fame laudable motives, fumifhed
with a fufficient quantity of fuch of our European garden
feeds, as could not fail to be a valuable prefent to our newly-
difcovered ifiands, by adding frelh fupplies of food to their
own vegetable produdlions.

Many other articles, calculated to improve the condition
of our friends in the other lemifphere in various ways,
were, at the fame time, delivered to us by order of the
Board of Admiralty. And both ftiips were provi led with a
proper afTortment of iron tools and trinkets, as the means
of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a friendly inter-
courfe with the inhabitants of fuch new countries as we
might be fortunate enough to meet with.

The fame humane attention was extended to our own
wants. Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate,
was ordered for our crews : and nothing was denied to us
that could be fuppofed in the leaft conducive to health, or
even to convenience.

Nor did the extraordinary care of thofe at the head of the

B 2 naval

l>A

'■! ;■

&.'■

J- m

A VOYAGE TO

%>'

1776. naval department ftop here. They were equally folicitous
^ "*'t^f to afford us every aiiiRance towards rendering our voyage
of public utility. Accordingly, we received on board, next
TuefJayii. day, fevcral aitronomical and nautical inftruments, which
the Board of Longitude intrufled to me, and to Mr. King,
my fccond Lieutenant ; we having engaged to that Board to
make all the neceffary obfervations, during the voyage, for
the improvement of aftronomy and navigation ; and, by our
joint labours, to fupply the place of a profeffed obfervator.
Such a perfon had been originally intended to be fent out in
my Ihip.

The Board, likewifc, put into our poffeflion the fame
watch, or time-keeper, which I had carried out in my laft
voyage, and had performed its part fo well. It was a copy
of Mr. Harrifon's, conllrudled by Mr. Kendall. This day, at
noon, it was found to be too flow for mean time at Green-
wich, by 3' 31'% 89; and by its rate of going, it loft, on
mean time, i", 209 per day.

Another time-keeper, and the fame number and fort of
inftruments for making obfervations, were put on board the
Difcovery, under the care of Mr. William Bayly ; who,
having already given fatisfa6lory proofs of his fltill and di-
ligence as an obfervator, while employed in Captain Fur-
neaux's fliip, during the late voyage, was engaged a fecond
time, in that capacity, to embark with Captain Gierke.

Mr. Anderfon, my furgeon, who, to flcill in his immediate
profeflion, added great proficiency in natural hiftory, was
as willing as he was well qualified, to defcribe every thing
in that branch of fcience which Ihould occur worthy of no-
tice. As he had already vifited the South Sea iflands in the
fame ftiip, and been of Angular fervice, by enabling me to
€nrich my relation of that voyage with various ufeful re-
3 marks

I77«.
June.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

marks on men and things^*, I reafonably exped^ed to derive
conliderable affiftance from him, in recording our new pro-
ceedings.

I had feveral young men amongft my fea-officers, who,
under my direction, could be ufefully employed in conftrudl-
ing charts, in taking views of the coafts and headlands near
which we Ihould pafs, and in drawing plans of the bays and
harbours in which we fliould anchor. A conftant attention
to this I knew to be highly requifite, if we would render
our difcoveries profitable to future navigators.

And, that we might go out with every help that could
ferve to make the refult of our voyage entertaining to the
generality of readers, as well as inftn.i6live to the failor and
fcholar, Mr. Webber was pitched upon, and engaged to em-
bark with me, for the exprefs purpofe of fupplying the un-
avoidable imperfedlions of written accounts, by enabling us
to preferve, and to bring home, fuch drawings of the moft
memorable fcenes of our tranfadtions, as could only be exe-
cuted by a profeffed and fkilful artift.

Every preparation being now completed, I received an
order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Difcovery
under my command. I accordingly gave Captain Gierke
two orders ; one to put himfelf under my command, and
the other to carry his Ihip round to Plymouth.

On the 15th, the Refolution failed from Long Reach, Saturday 15.
with the Difcovery in company, and the fame evening they
anchored at the Nore. Next day the Difcovery i)roceeded,
in obedience to my order ; but the Refolution was ordered

<t I.

■fi

""''■''' H

* The very copious Vocabulary of the language of Otaheite, and the comparative
fpecimen of the languages of the feveral other idands vifited during the former voyage,
and publiflied in Captain Cook's account of it, were furni/hed by Mr. Anderfon.

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

June.

iH.»

*i-.

.1 i

iilp

''f''

to remain at the Norc till I fliould join her, being at this
time in London.

As we were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Iflands,
in our way to the intended fcene of our frelh operations, it
had been determined not to omit this opportunity (the
only one ever likely to happen) of carrying Omai back to
his native country. Accordingly, every thing being ready
for our departure, he and I fet out together from London
Monday 2+. on the 24th, at fix o'clock in the morning. We reached
Chatham between ten and eleven o'clock; and, after dining
with Commiflioner Proby, he very obligingly ordered his
yacht to carry us to Sheernefs, where my boat was waiting
to take us on board.

Omai left London with a mixture of regret and fatisfac-
tion. When we talked about England, and about thofe
who, during his flay, had honoured him with their protec-
tion or friendfliip, I could obferve that his fpirits were fen-
fibly afFe<5ted, and that it was with difficulty he could refrain
from tears. But, the inftant the converfation turned to his
own iflands, his eyes began to fparkle with joy. He was
deeply imprefled with a fenfe of the good treatment he had
met with in England, and entertained the higheft ideas of
the country and of the people. But the pleafing profpedl he
now had before him of returning home, loaded with what,
he well knew, would be efteemed invaluable treafures there,
and the flattering hope which the poffeffion of thefe gave
him, of attaining to a diftinguiflied fuperiority amongft his
countrymen, were confiderations which operated, by de-
grees, to fupprefs every uneafy fenfation; and he feemed to
be quite happy when he got on board the fliip.

He was furnifhed, by his Majefty, with an ample provi-
fion of every article which, during our intercourfe with his

country,

* •:d

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

1776.

June.

country, we had obferved to be in any ellimation there,
cither as ufeful or as ornamental. He had, befides, received
many prefents of the fame nature from Lord Sandwich,
Mr. * Banks, and feveral other Gentlemen and Ladies of his
acquaintance. In Ihort, every method had been employed,
both during his abode in England, and at his departure, to
make him the inftrument of conveying to the inhabitants
of the iilands of the Pacific Ocean, the moft exalted opinion
of the greatnefs and generofity of the Britilh nation.

While the Refolution lay at the Nore, Mr. King made
feveral obfervations for finding the longitude by the watch.
The mean of them all, gave 0° 44' o"y for the longitude of
the fliip. This, reduced to Sheernefs, by the bearing and
eftimated diftance, wUl make that place to be 0° 37' o" Eaft
of Greenwich ; which is more by feven miles than Mr.
Lyons made it, by the watch which Lord Mulgrave had
with him, on his voyage toward the North Pole. Whoever
knows any thing of the diftance between Sheernefs and
Greenwich, will be a judge which of thefe two obferva-
tions is neareft the truth.

The variation of the needle here, by a mean of different
fets, taken with different compafTes, was 20° 37' Weft.

On the 25th, abovit noon, we weighed anchor, and made TuefOay 25.
fail for the Downs, through the Queen's Channel, with a
gentle breeze at North Weft by Weft. At nine in the even-
ing we anchored, with the North Foreland bearing South
by Eaft, and Margate Point South Weft by South.

Next morning, at two o'clock, we weighed and ftood Wednef. 26.
round the Foreland ; and when it bore North by the com-
pafs, the watch gave 1° 24' Eaft longitude, which, reduced

Now Sir Jofeph,

"f)n>

^'^" i

hi.i

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

June.

to the Foreland, will be i*" 21' Eaft. Lunar obfervations
made the preceding evening, fixed it at 1° 20' Eaft. At
eight o'clock the fame morning, we anchored in the Downs.
Two boats had been built for us at Deal, and I immediately
fcnt on fliore for them. I was told that many people had
aflcmbled there to fee Oraai ; but, to their great difappoint-
ment, he did not land.

Having received the boats on board, and a light breeze at
South South Eaft fjiringing up, we got under fail the next
ThurfJay 27. day at two oVJock in the afternoon. But thi breeze foon
died away, and we were obliged to anchor again till ten
o'clock at night. We then weighed, witli the wind at Eaft,
and proceeded down the Channel.

Sunday 30. On the 30th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we an-
chored in Plymouth Sound, where the Difcovcry had arrived
only three days before. I faluted Admiral Amherft, whofe
flag was flying on board the Ocean, with thirteen guns, and
he returned the compliment with eleven.

It was the firft obje<5l of our care, on arriving at Ply-

^louth, to replace the water and i)rovifions that we had

July. expended, and to receive on board a fupply of Port Wine.

Monday i. Tliis was the employment which occupied us on the ift and

Tuefday 2. 2d of July.

During our ftay here, the crews were ferved with frefh
beef every day. And I ftiould not do juftice to Mr. Omman-
ney, the Agent Victualler, if I did not take this opportunity
to mention, that he fliewed a very obliging readinefs to fur-
nifli mc with the beft of every thing that lay within his de-
partment. 1 had been under the like obligations to him
on my fctting out upon my laft voyage. Commiffioner
Ourry, with equal zeal for the fcrvice, gave us eyery af-
liftancc that we wanted from the naval yard.

i^^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

It couUl. not but occur to us as a fingular and afFeding 17, -A
circumllance, that at the very inltant of our departure up- >_ j_"^ ,
on a voyage, the ohjedl of which was to benefit Europe by
making frefli difcoveries in North America, there Ihould
be the unhappy neceflity of employing others of his Ma-
jefty's fliips, and of conveying numerous bodies of land
forces, to fecurc the obedience of thole parts of that con-
tinent which had been difcovered and fettled by our coun-
trymen in the laft century. On the 6th, his Majelly's fliips Saturday 6.
Diamond, Ambufcade, and Unicorn, with a fleet of tranl-
ports, confifting of fixty-two fail, bound to America, with
the laft divifion of the Heflian troops, and fome horfe, were
forced into the Sound by a ftrong North Weft Wind.

On the 8th, I received, by exprefs, my inftrudlions '••• for Mjnday «.
the voyage, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good
Hope with the Refolution. I was alfo directed to leave an
order for Captain Clerke to follow us, as foon as he fliould
join his fliip; he being, at this time, detained in London.

Our firft difcoverers of the New World, and navigators
of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, were juftly thought to
have exerted fuch uncommon abilities, and to have accom-"
pliflied fuch perilous enterprizcs, that their names have
been handed down to ix)rterity as fo many Argonauts.
Nay, even the hulks of the fliips that carried them, though
not converted into conltcllations in the Heavens, ufed to be
honoured and vifited as facred reliques upon earth. We,
in the prefent age of improved navigation, who have been
jnftruded by their labours, and have followed them as our
guides, have no Inch claim to fame. Some merit, however,
Jieing ftill, in the public opinion, confldered as due to thole

ii, I

Vol. I.

* See the inftruilions, in tlic Introtludioii.

who

-I >h

biii

hi'

July,

10 AVOYAOETO

who fail to unexplored quarters of the globe, in conformity
to this favourable judgment, I prefixed to the Djcount of
my lall voyage the names of the officers of both my (hips,
and a tabic of the number of their refpe(flivc crews. The
like information will be expcdled from me at prefent.

The Rciblution was fitted out with the fame complement
of officers and men ffie had before ; and the Difcovery's
ellablilhmcnt varied from that of the Adventure, in th ;
iinglc inftance of her having no marine officer on hu.i cl,
This arrangement was to be finally completed at Plyi. . juti ;
Tuefday 9. and, on the 9th, we received the party of mari.ies aUc.u .1
for our voyage. Colonel Bell, who cominan . i the divi-
fion at this port, gave me fuch men for the dctachmertt as
1 had rcafon to be fatisfied with. And the fupernumerary
fcamen, occafioncd by this reinforcement, being turned
over into the Ocean man of war, our feveral complements
remained fixed, as rcprefented in the following table :

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

XI*

■77'!?

RESOLUTION.

DISCOVERY.

Officers and Men.

Officers Names,

Oncers Names,

Captain, - -

James Cook. - —

Charlr Clcrke.

Lieutenants, - -

John Gore. — —
James King. - -
John WiUiamfon.

■z

James du rcy.
John Rick ui.

Mafter, -

William BUgh. -

Thoma* Edgai

Boatfwain, - -

William Ewin. -

Eneas \\ kins.

Carpenter, - -

James C level y. -

Peter Rc> .Ids.

Gunner, — —

Robert Andcrfon.-

William! kovci

Surgeon, - -
Mailer's Mates, -

William Anderfon.

Jol 1 Law.

■

« - -

Midftiipmcn, -

- - -

Surgeon's Mates, -

....

Captain's Clerk, -

. ^ —

Mafter at Arms, -

...

Corporal, - -

Armourer, — -

...

Ditto Mate, - -

. _ _.

Sail Maker, - -

...

Ditto Mate, - -

...

Boatfwain's Mates,

...

Carpenter's Ditto,

. . -

Gunner's Ditto, -

...

Carpenter's Crew,

. - -

Cook, - -

...

Ditto Mate, - -

Quarter Mafters, -

...

Able Seamen,

■M ■■ W

Marines.

Lieutenant, — -

Molcfworth Philii s.

Serjeant, - -

- - _

Corporals, - -

. . -

Drummer, - -

— . —

Private, - -

- - -

Total - -

I 12

_ - -

^I'.il'

C 2

^t^:

A VOYAGE TO

1776,

July.

i' ■ 1

1(1

' 'I

■M

J'.

On tlie loth, the Comniiflioner and Pay Clerks came on
board, and paid the officers and crew up to the 30th of laft
Wcdnef. 10. month. The petty officers and feamen had, befides, two
months wages in advance. Such indulgence to the latter is
no more than what is cuftomary in the navy. But the pay-
ment of what was due to the fuperior officers was humanely
ordered by the Admiralty, in confideration of our peculiar
fituation, that we might be better able to defray the very
great expence of furnilhing ourfelves with a ftock of necef-
faries for a voyage which, probably, Avould be of unufual
duration, and to regions where no fupply could be expedled'.

Nothing now obftrudling my departure but a contrary
wind, which blew ftrong at South Weft, in the morning of
Thurfdayii. the iitli, I delivered into the hands of Mr. Burney, firlt
Lieutenant of theDifcovery, Captain Clerke's failing orders;
a copy of whicli I alfo left with the Officer ••■'• commanding
his Majefty's fliips at Plymouth, to be delivered to the Cap-
tain immediately on his arrival. In the afternoon, the wmd
moderating, we weighed with the ebb, and got farther out,
beyond all the fliipping in the Sound ; where, after making
an unfuccefsful attempt to get to fea, we were detained
moft of the following day, which was employed in receiving
on board a fupply of watev ; and, by the fame velFcl that
brought it, all the empty cafks were returned.

As I did not imagine my ftay at Plymouth would have
been fo long as it proved, we did not get our inftruments on
fliore to make the necelTary obfervations for afcertaining
the longitude by the watch. For the fame reafon, Mr. Bayly
did not fct about this, till he found that the Difcovery would
probably be detained fome days after us. He then placed

FriJav 12.

• Cainain Le Crals, Admiral Amherft having fiiuck his flag fome days before.

hit-

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

his quadrant upon Drake's Ifland ; and had time, before
the Refohition failed, to make obfervations fufficient for
the piirpofe we had in view. Our watch made the illand
to lie 4° 14', and his, 4° 131', Weft of Greenwich. Its lati-
tude, as found by Meflrs. Wales and Bayly, on the laft
voyage, is 50° 21' 30" North.

We weighed again at eight in the evening, and ftood
out of the Sound, with a gentle breeze at Nonh Weft by
Weft.

1776.

July.

; f-

C U A P.

! J '

A VOYAGE TO

CHAP. II.

Ill

Piiffa^e of the Refolution to 'Teneriffe, — Reception there, —
Defcription of Santa Cruz Road. — Refrejhments to be met
with. — Obfervations for fixing the Longitude ofteneriffe.-^
Some Account of the Ifland. — Botanical Obfervations.--
Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna. — Agriculture. — Air
and Climate. — Commerce. — Inhabitants.

Friday 12.
Sunday 14,

Tufifday 16.

Wednef. 17.
'I'Jiujfday 1 8.

WE had not been long out of Plymouth Sound, before
the wind came more wefterly, and blew frefli, fo
that we were obliged to ply down the Channel ; and it was
not till the 14th, at eight in the evening, that we were off
the Lizard.

On the i6th, at noon, St. Agnes's Light-houfe on the Ifles
of Scilly bore North Weft by Weft, diftant feven or eight
miles. Our latitude was now 49° 53' 30" North, and our
longitude, by the watch, 6° 11' Weft. Hence, I reckon that
St. Agnes's Light-hovife is in 49° 57' 30" North latitude, and
in 6° 20' of Weft longitude.

On the 17th '■■ and i8th we were ofFUfliant, and found the
longitude of the ifland to be, by the watch, 5° 18' 37" Weft.
The variation was 23° o' 50'', in the fame dire<n:ion.

* It appears from C.iptain Cook's log-book, that he began his judicious operations
for prcfcrving the health of his crew, very early in the voyage. On the 17th, the (hip
\^ tnokcd between decks with gun-powder. The (pare fails alfo were then well
aired.

With

J ■■ m

THE PACIFIC OCEAN".

1776.

July.

With a ftrong gale at South, on the 19th, we flood to
the weftward, till eight o'clock in the morning; when,
the wind fhifting to the Weft and North Weft, we tacked Friday 19.
and ft retched to the Southward. At this time, we faw
nine fail of large fhips, which we judged to be French
men of war. They took no particular notice of us, nor we
of them.

At ten o'clock in the morning of the 22d, we faw Cape Monday zz,
Ortegal ; which at noon bore South Eaft, half South, about
four leagues diftant. At this time we were in the latitude
of 44° & North ; and our longitude, by the watch, was
8° 23' Weft.

After two days of calm weather we pafled Cape Finif-
terre, on the afternoon of the 24th, with a fine gale at Wednef. 24.
North North Eaft. The longitude of this Cape, by the
watch, is 9° 29' Weft; and, by the mean of forty-one lunar
obfervations, made before and after we pafled it, and re-
duced to it by the watch, the refult was 9° 19' 12'^

On the 30th, at fix minutes and thirty-eight feconds paft Tuefday 30.
ten o'clock at night, apparent time, I obferved, with a
night telefcope, the moon totally eclipfed. By the epheme'
riSf the fame happened at Greenwich at nine minutes
paft eleven o'clock ; the difference being one hour, two
minutes, and twenty-two feconds, or 15° 35' 30" of longi-
tude. The watch, for the fame time, gave 15° 26' 45' lon-
gitude Weft ; and the latitude was 31° 10' North. No other
obfervation could be made on this eclipfe, as the moon was
hid behind the clouds the greater part of the time ; and,
in particular, when the beginning and end of total dark-
nefs, and the end of the eclipfe, happened.

Finding that we had not hay and corn fufficient for the
fubfiftencc of the ftock of animals on board, till our arrival

:' '

A VOYAGE TO

1-76.

lulv.

Wcdnef.

Aiifjuft.

TluirUiiiv 1

■4

:* '■

at the Cape of Good Hope, I determined to touch at Tene-
rirte, to get a lupply of thefe, and of the xiiual refrclhments
for ourfelves ; tiiinking that illand, for fuch purpofes, bet-
ter adapted than Madeira. At four in the afternoon of the
3 1 11, we faw TeneriiFe, and Iteered for the eallern part. At
nine, being near it, we hauled up, and ftood oif and otv
(Un'ing the night.

At day-Ught, on the morning of the ift of Auguft, we
failed round the Eail Point of the illand ; and, about eight
o'clock, anchored on the South Eall fide of it, in the Road
of Santa Cruz, in twenty-three fathoms w ater ; the bottom,
land and ooze. Punta de Nago, the Eait point of the Road,
l)orc North 64° Eail ; St. Francis's church, remarkable for
its high lleeple. Weft South Weft ; the Pic, South 65° Weft ;
and the South Weft point of the Road, on which ftands a
fort or caftle. South 39' Weft. In this fitviation, we moored
North Eaft and South Weft, with a cable each way, being
near half a mile from the fliore.

We found, riding in this Road, La Bouflble, a French fri-
gate, commanded by the Chevalier de Borda ; two brigan-
tines of the fame nation ; an Englifli brigantine from Lon-
don, bound to Senegal ; and fourteen fail of Spanilh veftcls.

No fooner had we anchored, than we were vifited by the
Mafter of the Port, who fatisiied himfelf with alking the
lliip's name. Ujion his leaving us, I fent an officer alhore,
to prcfent my refpeds to the Governor ; and to alk his leave
to take in water, and to purchafe fuch articles as wc were in
want of. All this he granted m ith the grcateft politenels ;
and, loon after, fent an officer on board, to com[)liment me
on my arrival. In the afternoon, I waited upon him in per-
Ion, accompanied by Ibmc of my officers ; and, before I
returned to my lliip, befpoke Ibmc corn and ilraw for the

live

«.t

,'i*

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

live ftock ; ordered a quantity of wine from Mr. M<Carrick,
the contradlor, and made an agreement with the mafter of
a Spanifli boat to fupply us with water, as I found that we
could not do it ourfelves.

The road of Santa Cruz is lituated before the town of the
fame name, on the South Eaft fide of the illand. It is, as I
am told, the principal road of TenerifFe, for fhelter, capa-
city, and the goodnefs of its bottom. It lies entirely open
to the South Eaft and South winds. But thefe winds are
never of long continuance ; and, they fay, there is not an
inftance * of a Ihip driving from her anchors on Ihore.
This may, in part, be owing to the great care they take in
mooring them ; for I obferved, that all the fliips we met
with there, had four anchors out ; two to the North Eaft,
and two to the South Weft; and their cables buoyed up with
cafks. Ours fufFered a little by not obferving this laft pre-
caution.

At the South Weft part of the road, a ftone pier runs out
into the fea from the town, for the convenience of loading
and landing of goods. To this pier, the water that fupplies
the fliipping is conveyed. This, as alfo what the inhabit-
ants of Santa Cruz ufe, is derived from a rivulet that runs
from the hills, the greateft part of which comes into the
town in wooden fpouts or troughs, that are fupported by
{lender polls, and the remainder doth not reach the fea ;
though it is evident, from the fize of the channel, that

* Though no fuch inftance was known to thofc from whom Captain Cook had
this information, we learn from Glas, that /ome years irforc he was at Tenerifte, n!-
maft all the fliipphg in the road ivcre driven en Jhcre. See Glm's HijL of the Cnuiry
Jjlauds, p. 235. We may well fuppole the precautions now ufcd, have prevented
any more fuch accidents happeniii-^. This will fufficicntly juitify Captain Cook's ac-
count.

1776.
Augufl.

r ' '1 all

' f.

Vol. I.

fometimes

'^'

■I' I

Augull.

,.-l''

■Jl /i.

A VOYAGE TO

fometimes large torrents rufli down. At this time thefe
troughs were repairing, fo that frefh water, which is very
good here, was fcarce.

Were we to judge from the appearance of the country in
the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded
that TenerifFe is a barren fpot, infvifficient to maintain even
its own inhabitants. The ample fupplies, however, which
we received, convinced us that they had enough to fpare
for vifiters. Befides wine, which is the chief produce of
the ifland, beef may be had at a moderate price. The oxen
are fmall and boney, and weigh aboxit ninety pounds a
qviarter. The meat is but lean, and was, at prefent, fold
for half a bit (three pence fterling) a povmd. I, unadvi-
fedly, bought the bullocks alive, and paid confiderably
more. Hogs, flieep, goats and poultry, are likewife to be
bought at the fame moderate rate ; and fruits are in great
plenty. At this time we had grapes, figs, pears, mulber-
ries, plantains, and mufk melons. There is a variety of
other fruits produced here, though not in feafon at this
time. Their pumpkins, onions, and potatoes, are exceed-
ingly good of their kind, and keep better at fea than any I
ever before met with.

The Indian corn, which is alfo their produce, coft me
about three fhillings and fixpence a bufhel ; and the fruits
and roots were, in general, very cheap. They have not any
plentiful fupply of fifli from the adjoining fea ; but a very
confiderable lifliery is carried on by their veflels upon the
coaft of Barbary ; and the produce of it fells at a reafonable
price. Upon the whole, I found TenerifFe to be a more
eligible place than Madeira, for fliips bound on long voyages
to touch at; though the wine of the latter, according to my
tafte, is as much fuperior to that of the former, as ftrong
3 beer

rr^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

beer is to fmall. To compenfate for this, the difference of
prices is conliderable ; for the beft Teneriffe wine was now
fold for twelve pounds a pipe ; whereas a pipe of the beft
Madeira would have coft confiderably more than double
that fum -'^

The Chevalier de Borda, commander of the French fri-
gate now lying in Santa Cruz road, was employed, in con-
junction with Mr. Varila, a Spanifh Gentleman, in making
aftronomical obfervations for afcertaining the going of two
time-keepers which they had on board their Ihip. For this
purpofe, they had a tent pitched on the pier head, where
they made their obfervations, and compared their watches,
every day at noon, with the clock on fliore, by lignals.
Thefe fignals the Chevalier very obligingly communicated
to us; fo that we could compare our watch at the fame
time. But our ftay was too fliort, to profit much by his
kindnefs.

The three days comparifons which we made, affured us
that the watch had not materially, if at all, altered her rate
of going ; and gave us the fame longitude, within a very
few feconds, that was obtained by finding the time from
obfervations of the fun's altitude from the horizon of the
fea. The watch, from a mean of thefe obfervations, on
the ift, ad, and 3d of Auguft, made the longitude 16° 31'

* Formerly, there was made at Teneriffe a great quantity of Canary fack, which the
French call Vin dt Malvefie \ and we, corruptly alter them, name Malmfey (from Mal-
vefia, a town in the Morea, famous for fuch lufcious wine). In the lafl century, and
ftill later, much of this was imported into England ; but little wine is now made there,
but of the fort defcribed by Captain Cook. Not more than fifty pipes of the rich Canary
were annually made in Glas's time; and he fays, they now gather the {^-apes when
green, and make a dry hard wine of them, fit for hot climates, p. 262.

D 2 Weft ;

1776.

Auguft.

•776.
Augud.

'I*

A VOYAGE TO

Weft ; and, in like manner, the latitude was found to be
28^30' 11' North.

Mr. Varila int'ormed us, that the true longitude was 18^
35' 30 '» from Paris, which is only 16° 16' 30" from Green-
wich ; Icfs than what ovir watch gave by 14' 30". But, far
from looking upon this as an error in the watch, I rather
think it a confirmation of its having gone well ; and that
the longitude by it may be nearer the truth than any other.
It is farther confirmed by the lunar obfervatiouG that we
made in the road, which gave 16° 37' 10". Thofe made be-
fore we arrived, and reduced to the road by the watch,
gave 16" 33' 30"; and thole made after we left it, and redu-
ced back in the fame manner, gave 16° 28'. The mean of
the three is 16° 30' 40".

To reduce thele fcvcral longitudes, and the latitude, to
the Pic of TeneritFe, one of the moft noted points of land
with Geographers (to obtain the true fituation of which, I
have entered into this particular difcuflion), I had recourfe
to the bearing, and a few hours of the Ihip's run after leav-
ing Santa Cruz road; and found it to be 12' 11" South of
the road, and 29' 30" of longitude Weft of it. As the
bafe, which helped to determine this, was partly eftimated,
it is liable to fome error ; but I think I cannot be much
miftaken. Dr. Mafkelyne, in his Britijb Mariner's Guide,
places the Pic in the latitude of 28° 12' 54''. This, with the
bearing from the road, will give the difference of longitude
43', which confiderably exceeds the diftance they reckon the
Pic to be from Santa Cruz. I made the latitude of the Pic
to be 28' 18' North. Upon that fuppofition, its longitude
will be as follows :

THE PACir 1 OCEAN.

r The Time-keeper - 17° o' y/")
By "I Lunar obfcrvations - 16" 30' 20" > Weft.
/.Mr. Varila - - 16° 46' o'J
But if the latitude of it is 28" 12' 54", as in the Briii/lb Ma-
riner's Guide, its longitude will be 13' 30" more wefterly.

The variation, when we were at anchor in the road, by
the mean of all our compafles, was found to be 14° 41' 20"
Weft. The dip of the North end of the needle was 61° 5a'

30 •

• Some of Mr. Anderfon's remarks on the natural appear-
ances of TenerifFe, and its productions ', and what he ob-
fcrved himfelf, or learnt by information, about the general
ftate of the illand, will be of ufe, particularly in marking
what changes may have happened there fmce Mr. Glas vi-
fited it. They here follow in his own words :

" While we were ftanding in for the land, the weather
being perfedlly clear, we had an opportunity of feeing the
celebrated Pic of TenerifFe. But, I own, I was much dif-
appointed in my expedlation with refpedt to its appearance.
It is, certainly, far from equalling the noble figure of Pico,
one of the Weftern Ifles which I have feen ; though its per-
pendicular height may be greater. This circumftance, per-
haps, arifes from its being furrounded by other very high
hills ; whereas Pico ftands without a rival.

Behind the city of Santa Cruz, the country rifes gradu-
ally, and is of a moderate height. Beyond this, to the
South Weftward, it becomes higher, and continues to rife
toward the Pic, which, from the road, appears but little
higher than the furrounding hills. From thence it feems to
dccreafe, though not fuddenly, as far as the eye can reach.
From a fuppofition that we fliould not ftay above one day,
I was obliged to contrail my excurlions into the country ;

otherwife,

AugUR.

1776.

Auguil.

A VOYAGE TO

otherwife, I had propofed to vilit the top of this famous
mountain *.

To the eallward of Santa Cruz, the ifland appears per-
fedlly barren. Ridges of hills run toward the lea ; between
which ridges are deep valleys, terminating at mountains or
hills that run acrofs, and are higher than the former.
Thofe that nui toward the fea, are marked by imprelfions
on their fides, which make them appear as a fucceflion of
conic hills, with their tops very rugged. The higher ones
that run acrofs, are more uniform in their appearance.

In the forenoon of the ift of Augult, after we had an-
chored in the road, I went on fliore to one of thefe valleys,
with an intention to reach the top oi the remoter hills,
which feemed covered with wood ; but time would not
allow me to get farther than their foot. After walking
about three miles, I found no alteration in the appearance
of the lower hills ; which produce great quantities of the
euphorbia Canarienfts. It is furprifing that this large fuccu-
lent plant, fliould thrive on fo burnt-up a foil. When broken,
which is eafdy done, the (^uantity of juice is very great ;
and it might be fuppofed that, when dried, it would Ihrivel
to nothing ; yet it is a pretty tough, though foft and hght
wood. The people here believe its juice to be fo cauftic as

• See an account of a journey to the top of the Pic of Tcneriffe, in Sprat's Hi/iorj
tf the Royal Society, p. 200, &c. Glat alfo went to the top of it. Hi/lory of the Canary
IJkndsy p. 252 to 259. In the Phiiofophical Tranfaftions, vol. xlvii. p. 353 — 356, wc
have Ohfervat'tons made. In going up the Pic of Tentriffe, by Dr. T, Heberden. The Doftor
makes its height, above the level of the fea, to be 2566 fethoms, or 15,396 Eiigliih feet j
and fays, that this was confirmed by two fubfequent obfervations by himfelf, and another
made by Mr. Crofle, the Conful. And yet, I fijid, that the Chevalier de Borda, who
mcafured the height of this mountain in Auguft 1776, makes it to be only 1931 French
toifes, or 12,340 Englilh feet. See Dodtor Forftcr's Obfervatiom during a Voyage round
the World, p. 32.

\i:

THE PACIFIC OCEAK.

to erode the Ikin *i^ ; but I convinced them, tho igh \v ith 1776,
niuth difficulty, to the contrary, by thrufting my finger . '^"'"^' .
into the plant full of it, without afterward wiping it off.
They break down the buflies of euphorbia^ and fufFering
them to dry, carry them home for fuel. I met with nothing
ehe growing there, but two or three fmall Ihrubs, and a
few fig-trees near the bottom of the valley.

The bafis of the hills is a heavy, compadt, blueilh (lone,
mixed with fome finning particles ; and, on the furface,
large mafles of red friable earth, or ftone, are fcattered
about. I alfo often found the fame fubftance difpofed in
thick Jlrata ; and the little earth, ftrewed here and there,
was a blackifli mould. There were likewife fome pieces of
flag ; one of which, from its weight and fmooth furface,
feemed almoft: wholly metalline.

The mouldering fiiate of thefe hills is, doubtlefs, owing
to the perpetual adlion of the fun, which calcines their fur-
face. This mouldered part being afterward wafhed away
by the heavy rains, perhaps is the caufe of their fides be-
ing fo uneven. For, as the different fubftances of which
they are compofed, are more or lefs eafily affedled by the
fun's heat, they will be carried away in the like propor-
tions. Hence, perhaps, the tops of the hills, being of the
hardeft rock, have ftood, while the other parts on a decli-
vity have been deftroyed. As I have ufually obferved, that
the tops of mofl mountains that are covered with trees
have a more uniform appearance, I am inclined to believe
that this is owing to their being fhaded.

The city of Santa Cruz, though not large, is tolerably

* Glafs, p. 231, fpeaking of this plant, fays, that he cannot im,iglne why the natives
ef the Canaries do not extraSl the juice-, and ufe it inj}ead of pitch, for the bottoms of their boats,
Wc now learn from Mr, Anderfon their reafon for not ufing it.

well

■/

1776.

AuguR.

FriJay z.

A VOYAGE TO

well built. The churches are not magnificent without ; but
within arc decent, and indifferently ornamented. They arc
inferior to fome of the churches at Madeira ; but, I ima-
gine, this rather aiifes from the different difixjfition of the
l)eople, than from their inability to fupport them better.
For the private houfes, and drefs of the Spanilh inhabitants
of Santa Cruz, are far preferable to thofc of the Portuguefc
at Madeira; who, perhaps, are wdling to Urip themfelves,
that they may adorn their churches.

Almoll facing the ffonc pier at the landing-place, is a
handlbme marble column lately put up, ornamented with
ibme human figiues, that do no difcredit to the artift ; with
an inlcription in Spaniih, to commemorate the occafion of
the cre<ftion ; and the date.

In the afternoon of the 2d,, four of us hired midestoride
to the city of Laguna •••, lo called from an adjoining lake,
about foiu' miles from Santa Cruz. We arrived there be-
tween five and fix in the evening; but found a fight of it
very unable to compenfate for our troidile, as the road was
very bad, and the mules but indifferent. The place is, in-
deed, pretty extcnfive, but fcarcely deferves to be dignified
with the name of city. The difpolition of its Ib'cets is very
irregular ; yet Ibme of them arc of a tolerable breadth, and
have Ibme good houfes. In general, however, Laguna is
inferior in appearance to Santa Cruz, though the latter is
but fiiiall, if comjiared with the former. We were inform-
ed, likewife, that F^aguna is declining fait; there being,
at prclciit, fome vineyards where houfes formerly fiood ;
whereas Santa Cruz is increafing daily.

* Its extended name i-. St. Chriftobal de l;i Laguna ; and it iifed to be reckoned
the capita! (»t' the ifland, the gentry and lawyers living there ; though the Governor Ge-
neral (if the Canary Iflands refides at Santa Cruz, as being the centre of their trade,
fcotli yvi'di Luropc .uiJ Anitrita. Sec C.'us's ll'ijl. p. 24S.

The

^ 'I

»<

THE P A C I F 1 C OCEAN.

'I'hc road leading from Santa Cruz to La^iina runs up
a Itccp hill, which is very barren ; but, lower down, we
law fome fig-trees, and fcveral corn fields. Thelb are but
i'mall, and not thrown into ridges, as is pra«5lired in Eng-
land. Nor does it appear that they can raile any corn here
without great labour, as the ground is lb encumbered with
Hones, that they are obliged to colle<fl and lay them in
broad rows, or walls, at fmall diftances. The large hills
that run to the South Wert, appeared to be pretty well fur-
nilhed with trees. Nothing elfe worth noticing prelented
itl'elt" during this excurfion, except a few aloe plants in
flower, near the fide of the road ; and the cheerfulnefs of
our guides, who amuled vis with fongs by the w ay.

Mort of the laborious work in this iiland is performed
by mules ; horfes being to appearance fcarce, and chiefly
referved for the ufe of the officers. They are of a fmall
fize, but well fliaped and fpirited. Oxen are alfo employed
to drag their cafks along upon a largo clumfy piece of wood ;
and they are yoked by the head, though it doth not feem
that this has any peculiar advantage over our method of
fixing the harnefs on the flioulders. In my walks and ex-
curfions I faw fome hawks, parrots, which are natives of
the ifland, the fea fwallow or tern, fea gulls, partridges,
wagtails, fwallows, martins, blackbirds, and Canary-birds
in large flocks. There are alfo lizards of the common, and
another fort; fome infedts, as locurts; and three or four
forts of dragon flies.

I had an opportunity of converfing with a fenfible anil
well-informed gentleman refiding here, and whole veracity
1 have not the leart realbn to doubt. From him I learnt
fome particulars, which, during the lliort ihiy of three
days, did not fall within my own obfer\ ion. He in-

VoL. I. E formed

1776.

Aiiguft.

i My

1776.
Augull.

L>i

A VOYAGE 10

formed me, that a fhnib is common here, agreeing exadtly
with the defcription given by Tournefort and Linnjeus, of
the teafhrnby as growing in China and Japan. It is rec-
koned a weed, and he roots out thoufands of them every
year from his vineyards. The Spaniards however, of the
illand, fometim^s ufe it as tea, and afcribe to it all the qua-
lities of that imported from China. They alfo give it the
name of tea; but what is remarkable, they fay it was
found here when the illands were firft difcovered.

Another botanical curiofity, mentioned by him, is what
they call the impregnated lemon *'. It is a perfedl and dif-
tin<5l lemon, indofed within another, differing from the
outer one only in being a little more globular. The leaves,
of the tree that produces this fort, are much longer than
thofe of the common one ; and it was reprefented to me as
being crooked, and not equal in beauty.

From him I learnt alfo, that a certain fort of grape
growing here, is reckoned an excellent remedy in phthifi-
cal complaints : and the air and climate, in general, are
remarkably healthfiU, and particularly adapted to give re-
lief ill fuch difeafes. This he endeavoured to account for,
by its being always in one's power to procure a different
temperature of the air, by refiding at different heights in
the illand ; and he exprefled his fuq^rize that the Englifli
phyficians fliould never have thought of fending their con-
fumptive patients to Teneriffe, inflead of Nice or Lifbon.
How much the temperature of the air varies here, I myfelf
could fenfibly perceive, only in riding from Santa Cruz up
to Laguna ; and you may afcend till the cold becomes in-

* The ^VI■iter of the Rcln'ion of Tencriffi\ in Sprafs Hiflory, p. 207, takes notice
of this lemon :is produced here, and calls it Pregnada. Probably, emprennada, the Spa-
nifh word for iinpiy^iuitit/^ is the name it goes by,

tolerable.

)

''\

;lf

itice
Ipa-

1
t

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

tolerable. I was aflvired that no perfon can live comfort-
ably within a mile of the perpendicular height of the Pic,
after the month of Auguft *.

Although fome Imoke conftantly iffues from near the top
of the Pic, they have had no earthquake or eruption of a vol-
cano fince 1704, when the port of Garrachica, where much
of their trade was formerly carried on, was deftroyed +.

Their trade, indeed, mull be confidered as very confider-
able ; for they reckon that forty thoufand pipes of wine are
annually made, the greateft part of which is either con-
fumed in the ifland, or made into brandy, and fent to the
Spanifh Weft Indies |. About fix thoufand pipes were ex-
ported every year to North America, while the trade with
it was uninterrupted ; at prefent, they think not above
half the quantity. The corn they raife is, in general, in-
fufiicient to maintain the inhabitants ; but the deficiency

• This agrees with Dr. T. Heberden's account, who fays that the fugar-loaf part of
the mountain, or lapeiicofa (as it is called), which is an eighth pari of a league (or 1980
feet) to the iopy is covered with /now the greatejl part of the year. See Philofopbical Tranfac-
tions, as quoted above.

t This port was then filled up by the rivers of burning lava that flowed into it from
a volcano ; infomuch that houfes are now built where fhips formerly lay at anchor. See
Glas's Hiji. p. 244.

X Glas, p. 342, fays, that they annually export no lefs than fifteen thoufand pipes
of wine and brandy. In another place, p. 252, he tells us, that tlie number of the
inhabitants of TenerilFe, when the laft account was taken, was no lefs than 96,000.
We may reafonably fuppofe that there has been a confiderable increafe of population
fince Glas vifited the ifland, which is above thirty years ago. Tlie quantity of wine
annually confumed, as the common beverage of at lead one hundred thoufand perfons,
muft amount to feveral thoufand pipes. There mufl: be a vaft expenditure of it, by
converfion into brandy ; to produce one pipe of which, five or fix pipes of wine muft be
diftilled. An attention to thefe particulars will enable every one to judge, that the ac-
count given to Mr. Anderfon, of an annual produce of 40,000 pipes of wine, has a
foundation in truth.

1776.
Auguft.

''t^'

le.

E 2

ufed

17:6.

Augulf.

h''*

A VOYAGE TO

iifecl to he fupplied by importation from the North Ameri-
cans, who took their wines in return.

They make a Httle lilk ; but unlefs we reckon the filter-
ing-ltones, brought in great numbers from Grand Canary,
the wine is the only conliderable article of the foreign
commerce of TenerifFe.

None of the race of inhabitants found here when the
Spaniards difcovered the Canaries, now remain a diftindl
people *, having intermarried with the Spanilh fettlers ;
but their defendants are known, from their being remark-
ably tall, large-boned, and ftrong. The men are, in gene-
ral, of a tawny colour, and the women have a pale com-
plexion, entirely deftitute of that bloom which diftin-
guiflies our Northern beauties. The Spanilh cuftom of
wearing black clothes continues amongft ii>em; but the
men feem more indifferent about this, and in fome mea-
fure drefs like the French. In other refpe6ls, we found
the inhabitants of Tenerift'e to be a decent and very civil
l)eople, retaining that grave caft which diftinguifties thole
of their country from other European nations. Although
we do not think that there is a great limilarity between our
manners and thofe of the Spaniards, it is worth obfei-ving,
that Omai did not think there was much diflference. He
only faid, " that they feemed not fo friendly as the Eng-
lifh ; and that, in their perfons, they ai>proached thofe of
his countrymen."

• It was otherwifc in Glas's time, when a few families of the Gtuvichei (as they are
called) remained dill in TenerifFe, not blendtd with the Spaniards. Gla!, p. 240.

CHAP.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

CHAP. III.

Departure from T'eneriffe. — Danger of the Ship near Bona-
vifia.^IJle of Mayo. — Port Praya. — Precautions againjl
the Rain and ftiltry Weather in the Neighbourhood of the
Equator. — Pofition of the Coqft of Brazil. — Arrival at the
Cape of Good Hope. — T'ranfaBions there. — Jun£iion of the
Difcovery. — Mr. Anderfon^s Journey up the Country. — Af-
tronomical Obfervations.-— -Nautical Remarks on the Paf-
fage from England to the Cape., with regard to the Cur-
rents and the Variation.

HAVING completed our water, and got on board every ,776.
other thing we wanted at TenerifFe, we weighed an- ^^^g^*^-^
chor on the 4th of Auguft, and proceeded on our voyage, Sunday 4.
with a fine gale at North Eaft.

At nine o'clock in the evening on the loth *, we faw the Saturday 10.
illand of Bonavifta bearing South, diftant little more than
a league ; though, at this time, we thought ourfelves much
farther off: but this proved a miftake. For, after hauling
to the Eaft ward till twelve o'clock, to clear the funken rocks
that lie about a league from the South Eaft point of the
illand, we found ourfelves, at that time, clofe upon them,
and did but juft weather the breakers. Our fituation, for a
few minutes, was very alarming. 1 did not choofe to found,

* As a proof of Captain Cook's attention, both to the difcipline and to the health of
his fhip's company, it may be worth while to obfcrve here, that it appears from his log-
book, he exerdfed them at great guns and fmall arms, and cleaned and fmoked the Jliip betwixt
daks, twice in the interval between the 4th and the 10th of Auguft.

h I

i :! vl

tMi

Aiiguft.

Sunday 1 1,

l^-l'l

Monday i;

A VOYAGE TO

as that might have heightened the clanger, without any
poiribility of leffening it. I make the North end of the
illand of Bonavifta to lie in the latitude of i6° 17' North,
and in the longitude of 22° 59' Weft.

7\s foon as we were clear of the rocks, we fteered South
vSouth Weft, till day-break next morning, and then hauled
to the Wcftward, to go between Bonavifta and the iile of
Mayo, intending to look into Port Praya for the Difcovery,
as I had told Captain Gierke that I fhould touch there, and
did not know how foon he might fail after me. At one in
the afternoon, we faw the rocks that lie on the South Weft
lide of Bonavifta, bearing South Eaft, diftant three or four
leag\ies.

Next morning, at fix o'clock, the ifle of Mayo bore South
South Eaft, diftant about five leagues. In this fituation we
founded, and iound ground at fixty fathoms. At the fame
time the variation, by the mean of feveral azimuths taken
with three different compaffes-, was 9° 32 1' Weft, At eleven
o'clock, one extreme of Mayo bore Eaft by North, and
the other South Eaft by South. In this pofition, two
roundifli hills appeared near its North Eaft part ; farther
on, a large and higher hill; and, at about two-thirds of
its length, a fmgle one that is peaked. At the diftance we
now faw this illand, which was three or four miles, there
was not the leaft appearance of vegetation, nor any re-
lief to the eye from that lifelefs brown which prevails in
countries under the Torrid Zone that are unwooded.

Here I cannot help remarking that Mr. Nichelfon, in his
Preface to Sundry Remarks and Obfervathns made in a Voy-
age to the Eajl Indies '■•-, tells us, tliat " with eight degrees

* On board his Majefty's fliip Elizabeth, from 1758 to 1764 ; by William Nichel-
fon, Maftcr of the faid fliip. London, 1773.

"Weft

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

« Weft variation, or any thing above that, you may ven-
** ture to fail by the Cape cle Verde Illands night or day,
" being well affured, with that variation, that you are to
«' the Eaftward of them." Such an affertion might prove
of dangerous confequence, were there any that would im-
plicitly truft to it. We alfo tried the current, and found
one fetting South Weft by Weft, fomething more than half
a mile an hour. We had reafon to expedt this, from the
differences between the longitude given by the watch and
dead reckoning, which, fmce our leaving Teneriffe, amount-
ed to one degree.

While we were amongft thefe iflands, we had light
breezes of wind, varying from the South Eaft to Eaft, and
fome calms. This ftiews that the Cape de Verde Illands are
either extenfive enough to break the current of the trade
wind, or that they are fituated juft beyond its verge, in that
fpace where the variable winds, found on getting near the
line, begin. The firft fuppolition, however, is the moft
probable, as Dampier '> found the wind wefterly here in the
month of February ; at which time the trade wind is fap-
pofed to extend fartheft toward the equinoctial. The wea-
ther was hot and fultry, with fome rain ; and, for the moft
part, a dull whitenefs prevailed in the fky, that feems a
medium between fog and clouds. In general, the tropical
regions feldom enjoy that clear atmofphere obfervablc
where variable winds blow ; nor does the fun fliine with
fuch brightnefs. This circumftance, however, feems an
advantage ; for otherwife, perhaps, the rays of the fun,
being uninterrupted, would render the heat quite unfup-
portable. The nights are, neverthelcfs, often clear and
ferene.

1776.

Auguft.

J.\ V-^

f!;i|

.t,?3

' i :

! I

Dampier's Voyages, Vol. iii. p. 10,
T

''. ' "I

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

AiigulL

Wednef. 14.

Friday 30.

p.-::'

■,-jl

At nine o'clock in the morning of the 13th, we arrived
l)efore Port Praya, in the illancl of St. Jago, where we faw
lucfday 13. two Dutch Eall India Ihips, and a fmall brigantine at an-
chor. As the Difcovery was not there, and we had ex-
pended bxit little water in our paflage from Teneriife, 1 did
not think proper to go in, but ftood to the Southward.
Some altitudes of the Sun were now taken, to afcertain the
true time. The longitude by the watch, deduced there-
from, was 23° 48' Weft ; the little illand in the bay bore
Weft North Weft, diftant near three miles, which will make
i^^ longitude 23° 51'. The fame watch, on my late voyage,
made the longitude to be 23° 30' Weft ; and we obferved
the latitude to be 14° 53' 30" North.

The day after we left the Cape de Verde Illands, we loft
the North Eaft trade wind ; but did not get that which
blows from the South Eaft till the 30th, when we were in
the latitude of 2° North, and in the twenty-fifth degree of
Weft longitude.

During this interval ■•'■', the wind was moftly in the South
Weft quarter. Sometimes it blew frefli, and in fqualls ; but
for the moft part a gentle breeze. The calms were few,
and of fliort duration. Between the latitude of 12" and of
7° North, the weather was generally dark and gloomy,
with frequent rains, which enabled us to fave as much wa-
ter as filled moft of our empty cafks.

Thefe rains, and the clofe fultry weather accompanying

* On the 1 8th, I funk a bucket with a thermometer fcventy fathoms below the fur-
face of the fea, where it remained two minutes ; and it took three minutes more to haul
it up. 'I'he mercury in the thermometer was at 66, which before, in the air, flood at
78, and in the furface of the fca at 79. The water which came up in the bucket con-
tained, by Mr. Cavendifh's table, j'^, 7 part fait ; and that at the furface of the fea ,'j,, 4.
As this laft was taken up after a fmart ihowcr of rain, it might be lighter on that ac-
count. Captain Giok's hg-btok,

them,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

them, too often bring on ficknefs in this paflage. Every
bad confeqiience, at leaft, is to be apprehended from them ;
and commanders of fhips cannot be too much upon their
guard, by purifying the air between decks with fires and
fmoke, and by obliging the people to dry their clothes at
every opportunity. Thefe precautions were conftantly ob-
ferved on board the Refolution * and Difcovery ; and we
certainly profited by them, for we had now fewer fick than
on either of my former voyages. We had, however, the
mortification to find our fliip exceedingly leaky in all her
upper works. The hot and fultry weather we had juft
pafTed through, had opened her learns, which had been
badly caulked at firft, fo wide, that they admitted the rain
water through as it fell. There was hardly a man that
could lie dry in his bed ; and the officers in the gun-room
were all driven out of their cabins, by the water that came
through the fides. The fails in the fail-room got wet ; and
before we had weather to dry them, many of them were
much damaged, and a great expence of canvas and of time
became neceflary to make them in fome degree ferviceable.
Having experienced the fame defedt in our fail-rooms on
my late voyage, it had been reprefented to the yard oflficers,
who undertook to remove it. But it did not appear to me
that any thing had been done to remedy the complaint.
To repair thefe defedls the caulkers were fet to work, as
foon as we got into fair fettled weather, to caulk the decks
and infide weather-works of the fliip ; for I would not truft
them over the fides while we were at fea.

* The particulars arc mentioned in his log-book. On the 14th of Auguft, a fire
was made in the well, to air the (hip below. On the 1 5tli, the fpare fails were aired
upon deck, and a fire made to air the fail-room. On the 17th, cleaned and fmoked
betwixt decks, and the bread-room aired with fires. On the 21ft, cluar.ed and fmoked
betwixt decks ; and on the 22d, the men's bedding was fpread on deck to air.

Vol. I. F On

1776.

Auguft

■i

l''i

A VOYAGE TO

i7;6.
September.

■ f

|) !i

On the firft of September ^^ we croffed the Equator, in the
longitude of 27° 38' Weft, with a fine gale at South Eaft by

Sunday i. South; and notwithftanding my apprehenfions of falling in
with the coaft of Brafil in ftrctching to the South Weil, I
kept the fliip a full point from the wind. However, I found
my fears were ill-grounded; for on drawing near that coaft,
we met with the wind more and more eafterly ; fo that, by
the time we were in the latitude of 10° South, we could
make a South Eafterly courfe good.

Sunday 8. On the 8th, we were in the latitude of 8° 57' South ; which
is a little to the Southward of Cape St. Auguftine, on the
coaft of Bralll. Our longitude, deduced from a very great
number of lunar oblervations, was 34° 16' Weft; and by the
watch, 34° 47'. The former is 1° 43', and the latter 2° 14'
more Wefterly than the iiland of Fernando de Noronha, the
lituation of which was pretty well determined during my
late voyage +. Hence I concluded that we could not now

* The afternoon, as appears from Mr. Anderfon's Journal, was fpent in performing
the old and ridiculous ceremony of ducking thofe who had not crofled the Equator before.
Though Captain Cook did not fupprefs the cuftom, he thought it too trifling to deferve
the leaft mention of it in his Journal, or even in his log-book. Pernetty, the Writer of
Bougainville's Voyage to the Falkland Iflands, in 1763 and 1764, thought diiFerently;
for his account of the celebration of this childifli feflival on board his Hiip, is extended
through feventeen pages, and makes the fubjeil of an entire chapter, under the title of
Bapthne de la L'igne,

It may be worth while to tranfcribe his introdiiftion to the defcription of it. " C'eft
" un ufage qui ne remonte pas plus haut que ce voyage celebre de Gsuna, qui a fourni au
" Camoens le fujet de la Lufiade. L'Idee qu'on ne f^auroit etre un bon marin, fans avoir
" traverfe I'Equateur, I'ennui infeparable d'une longue navigation, un certain efprit repub-
" licaiii qui regne dans toutes les petites focietes, peut-etre toutes ces caufes reunies, ont
" pu donncr naiflance a ces efp?ces de faturnales. Quoiqu'il en foit, elles furcnt adoptees,
" en un inftant, dans toutes ies nations, et les hommes les plus eclaires furent obliges de fc
" foumeitre a une coutume dont ils reconnoiftbient I'abfurdite. Car, partout, des que le
" peuplc parle, il faut que le fage fe mette a I'unifoni" Hijlmre d'un Voyage tiiix JJles Ma-
kiilnes, p. 107, 108.

■f See Cook's Voyage, Vol, II. p. 278.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

be farther from the continent than twenty or thirty leagues
at "loft; and perhaps not much lei's, as we neither had
foundings nor any other figns of land. Dr. Halley, how-
ever, in his voyage, publiflied by Mr. Dalrymple, tells us *,
that be made no more than one hundred and two miles, meri-
dian diJiance,from the ijland [Fernando de Noronha] to the
coajl of Brajil \ and feems to think that currents could not
be the whole caufe of his making fo little. But I rather think
that he was miftaken, and that the currents had hurried
him far to the Weftward of his intended courfe. This was,
in fome meafure, confirmed by our own obfervations ; for
we had found, during three or four days preceding the 8th,
that the currents fet to the Weftward ; and, during the latt
twenty-four hours, it had fet ftrong to the Northward, as
we experienced a difference of twenty-nine miles between
our obferved latitude and that by dead reckoning. Uix)n
the whole, till fome better aftronomical obfervations are
made on fhore on the Eaftern coaft of Brafil, I fliall con-
clude that its longitude is thirty-five degrees and a half, or
thirty-fix degrees Weft, at moft.

We proceeded on our voyage, without meeting with any
thing of note, till the 6th of Odlober. Being then in the
latitude of 35" 15' South, longitude 7° 45' Weft, we met with
light airs and calms by turns, for three days fucceflively.
We had, for fome days before, feen albatrolTcs, pintadoes,
and other petrels ; and here we faw three penguins, which
occafioned us to found ; but we found no ground with a line
of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We put a boat in the
water, and fhot a few birds ; one of which was a black pe-
trel, about the fize of a crow, and, except as to the bill and
feet, very like one. It had a few white feathers under the

* P. ir.

F 2 throat;

vfti

35.

1776.

September.

ili

Oftober.
Sunday 6.

'Il

1776.

Oftober.

TucfJay S.

A VOYAGE TO

throat ; and the uiuler-fule of the quill-feathers were of an
afli-colour. All the other feathers were jet black, as alfo the
bill and legs.

On the 8th, in the evening, one of thofe birds which
failors call noildics, fettled on our rigging, and was caught.
It was fomcthing larger than an Englifli black-bird, and
nearly as black, except the upj^er part of the head, which
was white, looking as if it were jwwdered ; the whiteft fea-
thers growing out from the bafe of the upper bill, from
which they gradually alTumed a darker colour, to about the
middle of the upper part of the neck, where the white Ihade
was lolt in the black, without being divided by any line.
It was web-footed ; had black legs and a black bill, which
was long, and not unlike that of a curlew. It is faid thefe
birds never fly far from land. We knew of none nearer the
ftation we were in, than Gough's or Richmond liland, from
which our diilance could not be lefs than one hundred
leagues. But it muft be obferved that the Atlantic Ocean,
to the Southward of this latitude, has been but little fre-
quented ; fo that there may be more iflands there than we
are acquainted with. <

We frequently, in the night, faw thofe luminous ma-
rine animals mentioned and defcribed in my firft voyage *•.
Some of them Teemed to be confiderably larger than any I
had before met with ; and fometimes they were fo nume-
rous, that hundreds were vifible at the lame moment.

This calm weather was fucceeded by a frefli gale from
the North Weft, which lafted two days. Then we had
again variable light airs for about twentyrfour hours ; when
the North Weft wind returned, and blew with fuch ftrength^

* Sec Hawkefworth's ColleiUon of Voyages, Vol. II. p. 15.

that

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

that on the 17th we had fight of the Cape of Good Hope ;
and the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms
water, with the church bearing South Weft i South, and
Green Point North Weft I Weft.

As foon as we had received the ufual vifit from the Mafter
Attendant and the Surgeon, I fent an officer to wait on Ba-
ron Plettenberg, the Governor ; and, on his return, fainted
the garrifon with thirteen guns, which compliment was re-
turned with the fame number.

We found in the bay two French Eaft India Ships : the
one outward, and the other homeward bound. And two or
three days before our arrival, another homeward bound
fhip of the fame nation had parted from her cable, and been
driven on fhore at the head of the bay, where ftie was loft.
The crew were faved ; but the greateft part of the cargo
ftiared the fame fate with the fliip, or (which amounted to
the fame) was plundered and ftolcn by the inhabitants, ei-
ther out of the ftiip, or as it was driven or carried on lliore.
This is the account the French officers gave to me ; and the
Dutch thcmfelves could not deny the fadt. But, by way of
excufing themfelves from being guilty of a crime difgrace-
ful to every civilized ftate, they ende-avoured to lay the
whole blame on the French Captain, for not applying in
time for a guard.

As foon as we had fainted, I went on lliore, accompanied
by fome of my officers, and waited on the Governor, the
Lieutenant Governor, the Fifcal, and the Commander of the
troops. Thefc gentlemen received me with the greateft ci-
vility ; and the Governor, in particular, promifed me every
affirtance that the place afforded. At the fame time I ob-
tained his leave to let up our obfervatory on any fpot I
Ihould think moft convenient ; to pitch tents for the fail-
makers

1776.

Oauber.
t .v—^

Thurfday 17,
Friday itl.

■h 'i'

1776,

Oftc

ober.

TuefJay 22.

Wednef. 23.

Saturday 26.
Sunday 27,

Thurfday 31.

\ VOYAGE TO

makers and coopers ; and to brinj; the cattle on (horr, to
cjrazc near our encampment. Before I returned on board*
1 ordered loft bread, fre(h meat, and greens, to be provided,
every day, for the (hip's company.

On the 22d, we fet up the tents and obfervatory, and be-
gan to fend the feveral articles out of the (liip which I
wanted on Ihore. This could not be done fooner, as the
militia of the place were excrciling on, or near, the ground
which we were to occupy.

The next day, we began to obferve equal altitudes of the
Sun, in order to afcertain the rate of the watch, or, which
is the fiime thing, to find whether it had altered its rate.
Thefe obfervations were continued every day, whenever the
weather would permit, till the time of oiu- departure drew
near. But before this, the caulkers had been fet to work to
cavilk the Ihip ; and I had concerted meafures with MeflTrs.
Brandt and Chiron, for fupplying both fhips with fiich
provifions as I fhould want. Bakers, likewife, had been or-
dered, immediately after our arrival, to bake fuch a quantity
of bread as I thought would be requifite. As faft as the fe-
veral articles deftined for the Refolution were got ready,
they were carried on board.

On the 26th, the French (hip failed for Europe, and by
her we fent letters to England. The next day, the Hamp-
(liire Eaft hidia (hip, from Bencoolen, anchored in the bay,
and faluted us with thirteen guns, which we returned with
eleven.

Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the
31ft, when it came on to blow exceifively hard at South Ea(t,
and continued for three days; during which time there
was no communication between the (hip and the fhore.
The Refolution was the only Ihip in the bay that rode out

the

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

1776.

November.

Sunday y

the gale without dragging her anchors. Wc felt its efFe»5ts
as fcnlibly on Ihore. Our tents and obfcrvatory were torn
to pieces ; and our agronomical quadrant narrowly efcaped
irreparable damage. On the 3d of November the ftorm
ccafcd, and the next day we relumed our dilFerent employ-
ments.

On the 6th, the Hampfhire India ftiip failed for England. WcJnef. 6.
In her I fent home an invalid, whom Captain Trimble was
fo obliging as to receive on board. I was afterward lorry
that I had not availed myfelf of this opportunity to part
with two or three more of my crew, who were troubled
with different complaints ; but, at this time, there was fome
hope of their health being re-eft abliflied.

In the morning of the loth, the Difcovery arrived in the Sunday 10.
bay. Captain Gierke informed me that he had failed from
Plymouth on the ift of Auguft, and IhoiUd have been with
us here a week fooner, if the late gale of wind had not
blown him off" the coaft. Upon the whole, he was {even
days longer in his paflfage from England than we had been.
He had the misfortune to lofe one of his marines, by
falling over-board ; but there had been no other mor-
tality amongft his people, and .hey now arrived well and
healthy.

Captain Clerke having reprcfented to me that his lliip was
in want of caulking ; that no time might be loft in repair-
ing this defe(St, next day I fent all my workmen on board Monday i »
her, having already completed this fervice on board the Re-
folution. I lent every other afliftance to the Captain to ex-
pedite his fupply of provifions and water, having given him
an order to receive on board as much of both articles as he
could conveniently itow. I now found that the bakers had
failed in baking the bread I had ordered for the Difcovery.
3 They

I.
s

'>!

isi

■^

¥>

1776.

November.

■iifi

Thurfday 1 4.

"'I'

A VOYAGE TO

They pretended a want of flour ; but the truth was, they
were doubtful of her coming, and did not care to begin
till they faw her at anchor in the bay.

I have before made mention of our getting our cattle on
Ihore. The bull and two cows, with their calves, were fent
to graze along with fome other cattle ; but I was advifed to
keep our fheep, fixteen in number, clofe to our tents, where
they were penned up every night. During the night pre-
ceding the 14th, fome dogs having got in amongft them,
forced them out of the pen, killing four, and difperfing the
reft. Six of them were recovered the next day ; but the two
rams, and two of the fineft ewes in the whole flock, were
iimongft thofe mifling. Baron Plettenberg being now in the
country, I applied to the Lieutenant Governor, Mr. Hemmy,
and to the Fifcal. Both thefe Gentlemen promifed to ufe
their endeavours for the recovery of the loft flieep. The
Dutch, we know, boaft that the police at the Cape is fo
carefully executed, that it is hardly poflible for a flave, with
all his cunning and knowledge of the country, to effedluate
his efcape. Yet my flieep evaded all the vigilance of tne
Fifcal's officers and jieople. However, after much trouble
and expence, by employing fome of the meaneft and loweft
fcoundrels in the place (who, to ufe the phrafe of the per-
fon who recommended this method to me, would, for a
ducatoon, cut their mafter's throat, burn the houfe over his
head, and bury him and the whole family in the afhes), I
recovered them all but the two ewes. Of thefe I never
could hear the leaft tidings ; and I gave over all inquiry af-
ter them, when I was told that, fince I had got the two
rams, I might think myfelf very well off. One of thefe,
however, was fo much hurt by the dogs, that there was
realbn to believe he would never recover.

Mr.

>^i

^V'i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

Mr. Hemmy very obligingly offered to make up this lofs,
l)y giving nie a Spanifli ram, out of fome that he hail lent
for from Lifbon. But I declined the offer, under a perfua-
fion that it would anfwer my purpofe full as well, to take
with me fome of the Cape rams : the event proved, that I
was under a miftakc. This Gentleman has taken fome
pains to introduce Euroi)ean flieep at the Cape ; but his en-
deavours, as he told me, have been frurtrated by the obfti-
nacy of the country people, who hold their own breed in
greater eftimation, on account of their large tails, of the fat
of which they fometirnes make more money than of the
whole carcafs befides * ; and think that the wool of Euro-
pean flieep will, by no means, made up for their deficiency
in this rcfpe<5t. Indeed, I have heard fome fenfible men
here make the fame obfervation. And there feems to be
foundation for it. For, admitting that European flieep were
to produce wool of the fame quality here as in Europe,
which experience has fhewn not to be the cafe, the Dutch
have not hands, at the Cape of Good Hope, to fpare for the
mamifadluring even their own clothing. It is certain that,
were it not for the continual importation of flavjs,,this fet-
tlement would be thinner of people than any other inha-
bited part of the world.

While the fliips were getting ready for the profecution
of our voyage, fome of our officers made an excurlion to

* " The moft remarkable thing in the Cape flieep, is tV' 'ength and thicknefs of their
tails, .s'hich weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds. The fat is not fo tallowifli as that
of Kciropean mutton, and the poorer fort ufe it for butter." Kolbeni Qtpe of GojJ
Hope [Knglifti trandation], Vol. II. p. 65. De la Caille, who finds every thing
wrong in Kolben, fays, the weight of the tails of the Cape flieep is not above five or fix
pounds. Foyage de la Cii/le, p. 343. If the information given to Captain Cook may
be depended upon, it will prove that, in this inftance at leafi-, K jlbcn is unjiiftly accufed
of exaggeration.

Vol. I. Ci take

1776.

November.

i ,ut\

i: '

fl.

A VOYAGE TO

. 'I

mil

1,- *■ .

1776.

November.

Saurdav 16,

take a view of the neighbouring country. Mr. Anderfon,
my Surgeon, who was one of the i^arty, gave me the fol-
lowing relation of their proceedings * :

" On the 1 6th, in the forenoon, I fet out in a waggon,
with five more, to take a view of fome part of the country.
We crofled the large plain that hes to the Eaftward of the
town, which is entirely a white fand, like that commonly
found on beaches, and produces only heath, and other fmall
plants of various forts. At five in the afternoon we pafled
a large farm-houfe, with fome corn-fields, and pretty con-
fiderable vineyards, fituatcd beyond the plain, near the foot
of fome low hills, where the foil becomes worth cultivating.
Between fix and feven we arrived at Stellenbofli, the colony
next to that of the Cape for its importance.

The village does not confift of more than thirty houfes,
and ftands at the foot of the range of lofty mountains,
above twenty miles to the Eaft:ward of the Cape Town.
The houfes are neat ; and, with the advantage of a rivulet
which runs near, and the flicker of fome large oaks, planted
at its firft fettling, forms what may be called a rural pro-
fpe«St in this defert country. There are fome vineyards and
orchards about the place, which, from their thriving ap-
pearance, fcem to indicate an excellent foil ; thoiigh, per-
haps, they owe much to climate, as the air here has an \\n-
common ferenitv.

1 t

* In the Ihiiofophical Tranfadions, Vol. licvi. p. 268 to 319, is an Account of Thru
'Jouritki frotn the Qipc Town into the Sauthini Ports of Africa-, in 1772, 1773, and 1774 ;
by Mr. PVancis Maflbn, wlio had been fcnt from England for the difcovery of new phuits,
towards the improvement of the Royal Botanical Garden at Kcw. Much curious
information is contained in Mr. Maflbn's account of thefc journics. M. de PagcF, who
was at the Cape in 1773, gives fome remarks on the (late of that fettlemcnt, and alfo the
particulars of his journey from Falfe Bay to the Cape Town. Voyage vers le Ptle
du Slid, p. 17 to 32.

I employed

jjgM|

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

i \'i

1776.

November.

1 employed the next day in fearching for plants and in-
fers about Stellenbofli, but had little fuccefs. Few plants
are in flower here at this feafon, and infedls but fcarce. I Sunday 17.
examined the foil in feveral places, and found it to confift
of yellowifli day, mixed with a good deal of fand. The
fides of the low hills, which appear brown, feem to be con-
ftituted of a fort of ftone marie.

We left Stellenbofli next morning, and foon arrived at Monday 18
the houfe we had pafled on Saturday ; the owner of which,
Mr. Cloeder, had fent us an invitation, the evening before,
to vifit him. This Gentleman entertained us with the
greateft hofpitality, and in a manner very different from
what we expedled. He received us with mulic ; and a band
alfo played while we were at dinner; which, confidering
the lituation of the place, might be reckoned elegant. He
fhewed us his wine-cellars, his orchards, and vineyards ; all
which, I muft own, infpired me with a wifli to kno in
what manner thefe induftrious people could create fuch
plenty, in a fpot where, I believe, no other European nation
would have attempted to fettle.

In the afternoon we croffed the country, and pafled a few
plantations, one of which feemed very conflderable, and was
laid out in a tafl:e fomewhat different from any other we
faw. In the evening we arrived at a farm-houfe, which is
the firft in the cultivated tra<5l called the Pear/. We had, at
the fame time, a view of Drakenftein, the third colony of
this country, which lies along by the foot of the lofty hills
already mentioned, and contains feveral farms or planta-
tions, not very extenflve.

I went, on the 19th in the forenoon, in queft of plants Tuefday ly
and infedls, which I found almoft as fcarce as at Stellen-
bofli ; but I met with more flirubs or fmall trees, naturally

G 2 produced,

1 . 1 ■

4?^

1776.

Novtinber.
v.. -^—1/

A VOYAGE TO

produced, in the valleys, than m any part of the country I
had hitherto feen.

In the afternoon, we went to fee a ftone of a remarkable
fize, called by the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or
the Pearl Diamond*. It lies, or Itands, upon the top of
fome low hills, at the foot of which our farm-houfe was
fituated ; and though the road to it is neither very Iteep nor
rugged, we were above an hour and a half in walking to it.
It is cf an oblong fhape, rounded on the top, and lies nearly
South and North. The Eall: and Weil fides are fteep, and
almoft perpendicular. The South end is likewil'e fteep, and
its greateft height is there; from whence it declines gently
to the North part, by which we afcended to its top, and
had an extenfive view of the whole country.

Its circumference, I think, muft be at leaft half a mile ;
as it took us above half an hour to walk round it, includ-
ing every allowance for the bsd road, and flopping a littlc-
At its higheft part, which is the South end, comparing it
with a known (ibjedt, it fecms to equal the dome of St. Paul's

* Tn the Philofophical Tranfaclions, V(>\. Ixviii. Part I. p. 102. we have a Letter
trom Mr. Aiu'.orfon to Sir John Pringle, dffcribiiig this remarkable ftoiic. The account
fciit home from the Cape, and read before the Royal Society, is much the Hime with thar
now publiflied, but rather fuller. In particular, he tells Sir John, that he went to fee it
at Air. Alaj/oii's dtfitr, who, probably, had not had an opportunity of fufficiently examin-
ing it himfelf. In the account of his journies, above referred to, p. 270, he only fays,
" ilyre are two lar^ejoiul racks on the Ptvel lierg^ each of which (he beiuvrs) is mere than <i
mile in circunifciencc at the buff; and nfKvards of two hundred feet high. Their furfaces are
marly pnooth., without chink 'jr fijfurcs ; and they are found to be afpecies of gramteydiffire\t
from that which compfcs the leii'/j/ouring mountain:."

Mr. Andcrfon having, with his Letter to Sir John Pringle, alfo fcnt home a fpecimcn
of the rock, it was examined by Sir ■** illlam Hamilton, whofe opinion is, that " thisfm-
gular, iriimenfe fragment of granite, moj. ^ roliabfy has been raifcd by a vclcanic explofwn, or fome
fuch caufe." See his Letter to Sir John Pringle, annexed to Mr. ,\rAlcrfon's, in tlie I'hi-
lofoi hical Tranfadions.

church .

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

1776

November.

chvirch. It is one uninterrupted mafs or ftone, if we except
feme filTures, or rather impreflions, not above three or four
feet deep, and a vein which runs acrofs near its North end.
It is of that fort of ftone called, by Mineralogifts, Saxum con-
glutinatum^ and confifts chiefly of pieces of coarfe quartz
and glimmer, held together by a clayey cement. But the
vein which crofles it, though of the fame materials, is much
compadler. This vein is not above a foot broad or thick ;
and its fvirface is cut into little fquares or oblongs, difpofed
obliqiiely, which makes it look like the remains of Ibme
artificial work. But I could not obferve whether it pene-
trated far into the large rock, or was only fuperficial. In
defcending, we found at its foot a very rich black mould ;
and on the fides of the hills, fome trees of a confiderable
iize, natives of the place, which are a fpecies of <?/<?«*.

In the morning on the 20th, we fet out from the Pearl \ wedncf.
and going a different road from that by which we came,
paffed through a country wholly uncultivaced, till we got
to the 'Tyger hills, when fome tolerable corn-fields appeared.
At noon, we flopped in a hollow for refrefliment ; but, in
walking about here, were plagued with a vaft number of

* It is ftrange that neither Kolben nor de la Caille fliould have thought the To'ivcr of
Babylon worthy of a particular defcription. The former [Vol. II. p. 52, 53, Englilh
Tranflation] only mu-ntions it as a high mountain. The latter contents hiinfi.'lf witl'. tell-
ing us, that it is a very low hillock, un tres has monticule. Voyage de la C.iHh\ p. 34.1. Wv
are much obliged to Mr. Anderfon for his very accurate account of this remarkable rork,
which agrees with Mr. Sonnerat's, who was at the Cape of (Jood Hope fo late as 1781.
His words are, " La Montagne de la PerU\ mcrite d'etre obfervee. C'cft un dcs plus
" hautes des environs du Cap. Elle n'eft compofee que d'un feul bloc de granit crcvaiit-
" dans pluficurs cndroits." Voyage aux Iniks^ Tom. II. p. 91.

Mr. Sonnerat tells us, that Mr. Gordon, Commander of the troops at the Cape, li;Ht
lately made three journies up the country, from which, when he publilhes his iourii;il, \\i
may expei^ much curious information.

nuiiquitocs

'I i ■

A VOYAGE TO

m''

yf.

J I

1776.

November.

Joturday 23.

mufquitoes or fand flies, which were the firft I faw in the
country, hi the afternoon we fet out again, and in the
evening arrived at the Cape Town, tired with the jolting
waggon."

On the 23d, we got on board the obfervatory, clock, &c.
By a mean of the feveral refults of the equal altitudes of the
Sun, taken with the altronomical quadrant, the aitronomi-
cal clock was found to lofe on fidereal time, i' 8",368 each
day. The pendulum was kept at the fame length as at
Greenwich, where the daily lofs of the clock on fidereal
time, was 4".

The watch, by the mean of the refults of fifteen days
obfervations, was found to be lofing 2",26i, on mean time,
each day ; which is 1^,052 more than at Greenwich : and
on the 2 1 11, at noon, flie was too flow for mean time by
i'- 20' 57",66. From this, 6' 48^,956, is to be fubftradted,
for what flie was too How on the nth of June at Green-
wich, and her daily rate fince ; and the remainder, viz.
i"" 14'. 08^,704, or 18° 32' 10", will be the longitude of the
Cape Town by the watch. Its true longitude, as found by
MelTrs. Mafon and Dixon, is 18° 23' 15". As our obferva-
tions were made about half a mile to the Eail of theirs, the
error of the watch, in longitude, is no more than 8' 25'^
Hence we have reafon to conclude, that flie had gone well
all the way from England, and that the longitude, thus
given, may be nearer the truth than any other.

If this be admitted, it will, in a great nieafure, enable me
to find the diredlion and llrcngth of the currents we met
with on this paflage from England. For, by comparing the
latitude and longitude by dead reckoning, with thofe by
obfervation and the watch, we fliall, from time to time,
have, very accurately, the error of tlie fliip's reckoning, be

tlic

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

the caiife what it will. But as all imaginable care was taken
in heaving and keeping the log, and every neceflary allow-
ance made for lee-way, heave of the fea, and other fuch
circumftances, I cannot attribute thofe errors that did hap-
pen, to any other caufe but currents ; but more particularly
when the error was conftantly the fame way, for feveral
days fucceflively.

On the contrary, if we find the fhip a-head of the rec-
koning on one day, and a-ftern of it on another, we have
reafon to believe that fuch errors are owing to accidental
caufes, and not to currents. This feems to have been the
cafe in our paflage between England and TenerifFe. But,
from the time of our leaving that ifland, till the 15th of
Auguft, being then in the latit\ide of 12" North, and longi-
tude 24° Weft, the fhip was carried 1° 20' of longitude to the
Weftward of her reckoning. At this ftation, the currents
took a contrary diredlion, and fet to Eaft South Eaft, at the
rate of twelve or fourteen miles a day, or twenty-four hours,
till we arrived into the latitude of 5° North, and longitude of
20° Weft ; which was our moft Eafterly fituation after leav-
ing the Cape de Verde Iflands, till we got to the Southward.
For in this fituation the wind came Southerly, and we tacked
and ftretched to the Weftward ; and, for two or three days,
could not find that our reckoning was aifedled by any cur-
rent. So that, I judged, we were between the current that
generally, if not conftantly, fets to the Eafl upon the coaft
of Guinea, and that which fets to the Weft toward the
coaft of Brafil.

This Wefterly current was not confiderable till wc got
into 2° North, and 25° Weft. PYom this flation, to 3" South
and 30° Weft, the fliip, in the fpace of four days, was car-
ried one hundred and tifteen miles in the direction of South

I Weft

1776.

November.

■■ ■ .i:

* ¥

.V8

17;6.
Xov*mbcr.

.,5

A
■ (

A V O V AGE TO

Well by Weft, beyond her reckoninq; ; an error by far too
great to have any other caufc but a ftrong current running
in the fame diredion. Nor tlid its ftrength abate here ; but
its courfe was, afterward, more Wefterly, and to the North
of Weil; and off Cape Augulline, North, as I have already
mentioned. But this Northerly current did not exift at
twenty or thirty leagues to the Southwartl of that Cape ;
nor any other, that 1 could perceive, in the remaining part
of the paifage. The little difference we afterward found
between the reckoning and obfervations, might very well
happen without the afllllancc of currents ; as will appear
by the Table of Days Works.

In the account of my laft voyage ''■', I remarked, that the
currents one meets with in this paffage generally balance
each other. It happened fo then ; bccaufe we croffed the
line about 20' more to the Eailward than we did now ; lb
that we were, of coniequence, longer under the influence
of the Eafterly current, which made up for the Werterly
one. And this, I apprehend, will generally be the cafe, if
you crofs the line 10° or 15" to the Ealt of the meridian of
St. J ago.

From thefe remarks I fliall draw the following conclu-
fion. That, after palling the Cape de Verde lllands, if you
do not make above 4° or 5° Ealling, and crofs the line in, or
to the Weftward of, the meridian of St. Jago, you may ex-
pert to find your fliip 3° or 4° to the Weftward of her reck-
oning, by the time you get into the latitude of 10° South.
If, on the other hand, you keep well to the Eaft, and crofs
the line 15° or 20" to the Eaft of St. Jago, you will be then
as much to the Eaft of your reckoning ; and the more you
keep to the Eaftward, the greater will be your error ; as has

* Captain Cook's X'^oyage, Vol. I. p. 14.

been

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

been experienced by fome India ftiips, whofe people have
found themfelves dofe upon the coaft of Angola, when
they thought its diftance was above two hundred leagues.

During the whole of our pafTage from England, no op-
portunity was omitted of obferving, with all the attention
and accuracy that circumftances would permit, the variation
of the compafs, which I have inferted in a Table, with the
latitude and longitude of the fliip at the time of obfervation.
As the longitude may be depended upon, to a quarter or
half a degree at moft, this Table will be of ufe to thofe na-
vigators who correal their reckoning by the variation. It
will alfo enable Mr. Dun to corre<St his new Variation Chart,
a thing very much wanted.

It feems ftrange to me, that the advocates for the varia-
tion (hould not agree amongft themfelves. We find one * of
them telling us, as I have already obferved, that with 8"
JVeJt variation^ or any thin^ above that, you may venture to
foil by the Cape de Verde IJlandSy by night or day, being well
ajjuredj with that variation, that you are to the Eajhvard of
them. Another, in his Chart +, lays down this variation
ninety leagues to the Weftward of them. Such a difagree-
ment as this, is a ftrong proof of the uncertainty of both.
However, I have no doubt, the former found here, as well
as in other places, the variation he mentions. But he (hould
have confidered, that at fea, nay even on land, the refults
of the moft accurate obfervations will not always be the
fame. Different compalTes will give different variations ;
and even the fame compafs will differ from itfelf two de-
grees, without our being able to difcover, much lefs to re-
move, the caufe.

* Nichelfoii,

Vol. I.

t Mr. Dun.

1776.

November.

Whoever

A V O Y A G E T O

i,v<

. i

Jsdvcmbcr,

Whoever imagines he can llnd the variation within u
degree, will very often fee himlclf much deceived. For,
belides the imperfe»^tion which may be in the conftniiStion
of the inftrumcnt, or in the ix)wer of the needle, it is cer-
tain that the motion of the Ihip, or attraftion of the iron-
work, or fome other caufe not yet cUfcovered, will freqvient-
ly occafion far greater errors than this. That the variation
may be found, with a fliare of accuracy more than fuffi-
cient to determine the Ihip's courfe, is allov/ed ; but that it
can be found fo exactly as to fix the longitude within a de-
gree, or fixty miles, I abfolutely deny.

I !i'

4- -f.

'■

CHAP.

■5,1

[.-.«

! I

7»

»r..l

■T — I — rr-rr

L,- L t I '

linM ii .vrni I'.K.'K

KKlK'.r

'.*V'' '^

.s"''

"<)

1..1 1- I - '

CM i.<

Dil'.K.'K

1,1. 1. 1 1.1 111

cz/'':

. \;. /': .'h t.l..l '•.'..II /

.l'-tllll.//*» .l.llil.Ull'.l

s,.,,„.

/>w./,i, I..,,', 'l.l.-.viit'.'ii.. / /:/. ■,/ .

.„ ...,.„.,,., 1 y

<S^

/,„. //.».v. .-./>«'

fcWi.H.. .'..,.

<M)

I .'.ililinrr

lil.ii.il. . ."

,M .Mil „..i.l,.l'vi-...

-«f

I'.);

*--

Cill

I -f

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

CHAP. IV.

The two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope. — Iwo I/lands^
named Prince Edward's^ feen, and their appearance de^
fcribed. — Kerguelen's Land vifited. — Arrival in Cbrijlmas
Harbour. — Occurrences there. — Defcription of it,

AFTER the difafter which happened to our Iheep, it
may be well fuppofed I did not truft thofe that re-
mained, long on fliore ; but got them, and the other cattle,
on board as fall as poflible. I alfo added to my original
ilock, by purchafing two young bulls, two heifers, two
young ftone-horfes, two mares, two rams, feveral ewes and
goats, and fome rabbits and poultry. All of them were in-
tended for New Zealand, Otaheite, and the neighbouring
iflands, or any other places, in the courfe of our voyage,
where there might be a profpe6l that the leaving any of
them would be ufeful to pofterity.

Toward the latter end of November, the caulkers had
finiflied their work on board the Difcovery, and (lie had re-
ceived all her provifions and water. Of the former, both
Ihips had a fupply fufFicient for two years and upward.
And every other article we could think of, neceffary for fuch
a voyage, that could be had at the Cape, was procured;
neither knowing when, nor where, we might come to a
place where we could furnifli ourfelves fo mcII.

ri 2 Having

1776.

November,

' "'I

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

November.

['•■4:

December.
Sunday i.

Taefd«y 3.

Thurfday 5.

Friday 6.

«■

Having given Captain Gierke a copy of my inftrudions,
and an order dire<5ting him how to proceed in cafe of fepa-
Saturday 30. ration; in the morning of the 30th, we repaired on board.
At five in the afternoon a breeze fprung up at South Eaft,
with which we weighed, and flood out of the bay. At nine
it fell calm, and we anchored between Penguin Ifland and
the Eaft fhore, where we lay till three o'clock next morn-
ing. We then weighed and put to fea, with a light breeze
at South ; but did not get clear of the land till the morning
of the 3d, when, with a frefti gale at Weft North Weft, we
ftood to the South Eaft, to get more into the way of thefe
winds.

On the 5th, a fudden fquall of wind carried away the
Refolution's mizen top-maft. Having another to replace it,
the lofs was not felt; efpecially as it was a bad ftick, and
had often complained. On the 6th, in the evening, being
then in the latitude of 39° 14' South, and in the longitude of
23* 56' Eaft, we pafled through feveral fmall fpots of water
of a reddifti colour. Some of this was taken up ; and it was
foimd to abound with a fmall animal, which the micro-
fcope difcovered to be like a cray-fifh, of a reddilh hue.

We continued our courfe to the South Eaft, with a very
ftrong gale from the Weftwari , <^' 'Howed by a mountainous
fea ; which made the fliip roll anJ tumble exceedingly, and
gave us a great deal of trouble to preferve the cattle we had
on board. Notwithftanding all our care, feveral goats, efpe-
cially the males, died ; and fome fheep. This misfortune
was, in a great meafure, owing to the cold, which we now
began moft fenfibly to feel.

On the 1 2th, at noon, we faw land extending from South
Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft. Upon a nearer ap-
proach,

ThurWay 12.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

proach, we found it to be two iflands . That which lies moft
to the South) and is alfo the largeft, I judged to be about
fifteen leagues in circuit ; and to be in the latitude of 46' 53'
South, and in the longitude of 37° 46' Eaft. The moft Nor-
therly one is about nine leagues in circuit; and lies in he
latitude of 46° 40' South, and in 38° 8' Eaft longitude. The
diftance from the one to the other is about five leagues.

We pafled through this channel, at equal diftance from
both illands ; and could not difcover, with the afliftance of
our beft glafles, either tree or ftirub on either of them.
They feemed to have a rocky and bold fhore ; and, except-
ing the South Eaft parts, where the land is rather low and
flat, a furface compofed of barren mountains, which rife to
a confiderable height, and whofe fummits and fides were
covered with fnow, which in many places feemed to be of a
confiderable depth. The South Eaft parts had a much
greater quantity on them than the reft ; owing, probably,
to the Sun adling for a lefs fpace of time on thefe than on
the North and North Weft parts. The giound, where it
was not hid by the fnow, from the various fliades it exhi-
bited, may be fuppofed to be covered with mofs, or, per-
haps, fuch a coarfe grafs as is found in fome paits of Falk-
land's Illands. On the North fide of each of the illands is a
detached rock : that near the South illand is fliaped like a
tower, and feemed to be at fome diftance from the fliore.
As we pafled along, a quantity of fea-weed was leen, and
the colour of the water indicated foundings. But there was
no appearance of an inlet, unlefs near the rod: 31 .ft men-
tioned ; and that, from its fmallnefs, did not promife a good
anchoring-place.

Thefe two iflands, as alfo four others which lie from
nine to twelve degrees of longitude more to the Eaft, and

nearly

1776.

December.

'A 'i

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

December.

nearly in the fame latitude, were dilcovered, as I have men-
tioned in my late voyage •^■, by Captains Marion du Frefne,
and Crozet, French Navigators, in January 1772, on their
paflage ni two fliips from t)ie Cape of Good Hope to the
Philippine Illands. As they have no names in the French
chart of the Southern hemifphere, which Captain Crozet
communicated to me in 1775 +, I (hall diltinguifli the two
we now faw, by calling them Prince Edward's Illands, after
his Mrjefty's fourth fon ; and the other four, by the name
of Marion's and Crozet's Illands, to commemorate their dif-
coverers.

We had now, for the moft part, ftrong gales between
the North and Weft, and but very indifferent weather ; not
better, indeed, than we generally have in England in the
very depth of Winter, though it was now the middle of
Summer in this hemifphere. Not difcouraged, however,
by this, after leaving Prince Edward's Illands, I fliaped our
courfe to pais to the Southward of the others, that I might
get into the latitude of the land difcovered by Monfieur dc
Kerguelen.

I had applied to the Chevalier de Borda, whom, as I have
mentioned, I found at Teneriffe, requefting, that if he knew
any thing of the ifland difcovered by Monfieur de Kergue-
len, between the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland, he
would be fo obliging as to communicate it to me. Accord-
ingly, juft before v/c failed from Santa Cruz bay, he lent

* Cipimn Coot') Foyage, Vol. ii. p. 266. Thefc iflands are tliere faiJ to be in the la-
titude of 48' South i tliat is, two degrees tarther Soutli, than wliat h-^re appears to be
their real pofition.

t Sec Cook's Voyage., as abo\e. Dr. Forfter, in his Ohfrvations made durb^! that
voya^t, p. 30, gives us this defcription of the Chart then communicated by Monfieur Cro-
zet: that it was pul/!iJJjid under tbi piUroinjgc of the Duke de Cicye^ iy Robert de Vaugondy.
Captain Cook tells us, lower in tliis Chapter, that it was published 'v\ 1773.

3 nie

\^>

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

me the following account of it, viz. " That the Pilot of the
<' Bouflble, who was in the voyage with Monfieur de Ker-
" gtielen, had given him the latitude and longitude of a
** little illand, which Monlieur de Kerguelen called the
" I lie of Rendezvous, and which lies not far from the
" great illand which he faw. Latitude of the little ifle, by
" feven obfervations, 48" 26' South ; longitude, by feven ob-
« fervations of the diftance of the Sun and Moon, 64° 57'
" Eaft from Paris." 1 was very forry I had not fooner known
that there was on board the frigate at TenerifFe, an officer
who had been with Monfieur de Kerguelen, efpecially the
Pilot ; becaufe from him I might have obtained more in-
terefting information about this land than the lituation
alone, of which I was not before entirely ignorant *.

* Captain Cook's proceedings, as related in the remaining part of this Chapter,
and in the next, being upon a coaft newly difcovercd by the French, it could not but
be an objcdt of his attention to trace the footfteps of the original explorers. But no
fuperiority of profeflional (kill, nor diligence in exerting it, could polEbly qualify him
to do this fuccefsfully, without pofleffing, at the fame time, full and authentic intelli-
gence of all that had been performed here by his predcceflbrs in the difcovery. But that
he was not fo fortunate as to be thus fufficiently inftruiited, will appear from the following
fadls, which the Reader is requeftcd to attend to, before he proceeds to the perufal of
this part of the Journal.

How very little was known, with any prccifion, about the operations of Kerguelen,
when Captain Cook failed in 1776, may be inferred from the following paragraph of his
Inftruflions : " You are to proceed in fearch of fome iflands faifl to have been lately fcen
" by the French in the latitude of 48° South, and in the meridian of Mauritius (a)."
This was, barely, the amount of the very indefinite and imperfect information, wliich
Captain Cook himfelf had received from Baron Plettenbcrg at the Cape of Good Hope,
in November 1772 ("ij ; in the beginning of which year Kerguelen's fiijl voyage had
taken place.

The Captain, on his return horn'. ' .ud, in March 1775, heard, a fecond time, fome-
thing about this French difcovery at the Cape, where he met with Monfieur Crozet,

(d) See the Inflrudtions in the Inirndviftioi
(b) See Captain Cook's Voyage, Vul. i. p.

1776.

December.

"i\M

who

A VOYAGE TO

hii

■A

1776. My inftriKftions dire6ting me to examine it, with a view

to difcover a good harbour, I proceeded in the fearch ; and

who Vtty eblig t^'y communicated to him a Chart of the SoutJwrn H<"niifp}i<;re, whT^m were
delineated not only his own dif-overies, but alfo that ofC:^!.fi)n Ki'gtffLen (ai. But what little
infomiation that Chart could convey, was ftill neci-flarily u,<ined to the oix-rarjons of
the £{?; voyage ; the Chart here referred ti, having been publin>'''l in Franc-; \'.\ . "^3 j
tluU is, before any intelligence could pofTib! be conv. vc J from i!.e Sonuicrn Ik :. Inhere
of the refult of Kerguelen's fecord vifit to tfsi? new \za^ \ which, we now know, hap-
pened towards the cku"" of the fairo v«»r.

Of thefe latter oper.'vions, the M;'.y account (if that can be called an account, wliich
conveys no particular information) leceivfd by Captain C'.,ik from Monficur '..'vozct,
was, that a later Voyage hud been iindciiaken ly the Ft-fuh, under ths id/MW.d of i^ptai>i
Kiiguel ;, which had eiiiLi much to the dij^raf ofthul commander (b),

Wha? Crozet had not communicated to our Autiior, and wh . ' e arc fure, from a
variety <l circumllances, he had «arr heard of from any ether quarter, he miffed an
opportunity of ItMining at TcnerifFc. He exprcfll's his being forry, as we have juft
rta-i, iha! he did mt 'vnrMJuoner that there was on hoard the frigate an officer who had been
«"'..') KergueLi, as he might hrve obtained from him more interejling information about this
f'lfij'', than it) fttuation. And, indeed, if he had convcrfed with that officer, he might
iiave obtained information more interejling tlian he was aware of; he might have learnt
that Kerguelen had aduilly vifited this Southern land a fecond time, and that the little
ifle of which he thon received the name and pofitiorj from the Chevalier de Borda, was
a difcovery of this later voyage. But the account conveyed to him being, as the Rea-
der will obferve, unaccompanied with any date, or other diflringuifliing circumftance, he
left TenerifFe, and arrived on the coafts of Kerguelen''. Land, under a full perfuafion that
it had been viiited only rnce before. A.^d even, with regard to the operations of that
lirft vopgc, hfc had notlung to guide him, but the very fcanty materials afforded to hitn
by Baron Plcttcrbtrg and Monfieur Crozet.

The truih is, the French feem, for fomc reafon or other, not furely founded on the
importance of Ktiguelen's difcovery, to have Seen very (hy of publifhing a fiill and
diftin£l account of it. No fuch account \ai been publifhed while Captain Cook
lived. Nay, even after the return of his fliips in i7*'o, the Gent>man who obligingly
lent his affiftance to gi\c a view of the prior obfcnations of the French, and to con-
ne<Jl them on the fame Chart with thofc of our Author, though his afliduity in procur-
ing geographical information can be equalled only by his readinefs in communicating
it, had not, it fliould fecm, been able to procure any materials for th-t purpofe, but

(j) Sec Cook': Voyajc, Vol. ii. p. ifiO.

(^] Ibid. f. a68.

fuch

•f!

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

on the i6th, being then in the latitude of 48° 45', and in the 1776.
longitude of 52" Eall, we faw penguins and divers, and , '^''^"^"'i
rock-weed floating in the fea. We continued to meet with Monday 16.
more or lefs of thele every day, as we proceeded to the Ealt-
w^ard; and on the 2il\, in the latitude of 48' 27' South, and Saturday 21.
in the longitude of 65° Eaft, a very large feal was feen.
We had now much foggy weather, and, as wc expedted to
fall in with the land every hour, oiu* navigation became
both tedious and dangerous.

At length, on the 24th, at fix o'clock in the morning, as Tucfday 24.
we were fleering to the Eaflward, the fog clearing away a
little, we faw land *, bearing South South Eall, which,

upon

fuch as mark the operations of the firft Frendi voyage ; and even for thcfc, he was in-
debted to a MS. drawing.

But this veil of unnecefTary fecrecy is py length drawn afidc. Kerguelen himfclf has,
very lately, publiCied the Journal of Ins proceedings in two fucceflive voyages, in the
years 1772 and 1773 ; and has annexed to his Narrative a Chart of the coafts of tliis
land, as far as he had explored them in both voyages. Monficur de Pages, alfo, much
about the fame time, favoured us with another account of the fecond voyage, in fome re-
fpeiSls fuller than Kerguelen's own, on board whofe (liip he was then an officer.

From thefc fources of authentic information, we arc enabled to draw every neccfliiry
material to coiredl what is erroneous, and to illuflrate what, othcrwifc, would have re-
mained obfcure, in this part of Captain Cook's Journal. We {hall take occafion to do
this in feparate Notes on the paflages as they occur, and conclude this tedious, but, it is
hoped, not unnecedliry, detail of fa£ts, with one general remark, fully expreflive of the
difadvantages our Author laboured under. He never faw that part of the coaft upon
which the French had been in 1772 ; and he never knew tliat they had been upon ano-
ther part of it in 1773, which was the very fccnc of his own operations. Confcquciuly,
what he knew of the former voyage, as delineated upon Crozet's Chart, only ferved to
perplex and miflead his judgment ; and his total ignorance of the hitter., put it out of his
power to compare his own obfervations witli thofc then made by Kerguelen ; though we,
who arc better inftrutSled, can do this, by tracing the plaineft maiks of coincidence and
agieement.

* Captain Cook was not the original difcovcrcr ot thefe frnall iflands which he now

fell in vvitli. It is certain that they had been fecn and named by Kerguelen, on liis fecond

voyage, in December 1773. Their pofition, relatively to each otlier^ and to the adjoin-

V oL. I. I ing

Mv;%

I ■•■■ ' V

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

Oeccinbcr.

t,3

Upon a nearer approach, wc found to be an illand of con-
iiderable height, an<l aboxU three leagues in circuit *. Soon
after, we law another of the fame magnitude, one league
to tlie Ealhvard + ; and between thefe two, in the direction
of South Eart, ibme Imaller ones j. In the direction of
South by Eaft { Ealt, from the Eafl: end of the firft illand,
a third § high iiland was leen. At times, as the fog broke
away, we had the appearance of land over the fmall illands ;
and 1 had thoughts of fteering for it, by running in be-
tween them. B\it, on drawing nearer, I found this would
be a dangerous attemjn, while the weather continued foggy.
For if there fliould be no paflage, or if we Ihoiild meet with
any ludden danger, it would have been impoflible for us to
get off; the wind being right a-rtern, and a prodigious fea
ranning, that broke on all the Ihores in a frightful furf.
At the fame time, feeing another iiland in the North Eaft
diredion, and not knowing l^ut that there might be more,
1 judged it prudent to haui off, and wait for clearer weather,
left we flioidd get intangled amongft imknown lands in a
thick fog.

We did but juft weather the ifland Lift mentioned. It is a
high round rock, which was named Bligh's Cap. Perhaps

ing coafts of the greater land, as reprcfeiitcd on the annexed Chart, bears a ftriking re-
fcinblaiice to Kerguelen's delineation of thcni ; whofc Chart, however, the Pubfie may be
afTured, was unknown in England till after ours had been engraved.

* This is the ifle to which Kcrguelcn gave the tumc of Cray or Crouy. Befides deli-
neating it upon his Chart, he has added a paiticular view of it, exadly corrcfponding with
Captain Cook's account of its being of confukrable height.

f Kergiielen called this Ijlt Rollwd., after the name of his own (hip. There is alfo a
particular view of it on the French Chart.

t The obfervations of the French and Englifli navigators agree cxa(rHy, as to the
pofition of thefe fniJItr iflcs.

§ The fituation of Kcrguclcn's Ijli ik Oiignyy as marked on this Chart, (hews it to
be the third high ijlatul Cveu by Captain Cook.

this

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

tills is the fame that Monfieur dc Kcrgiielen called the Illc
of Rendezvous * ; but I know nothing that can rendezvous
at it, but fowls of the air ; for it is certainly inacceflible to
every other animal.

At eleven o'clock the weather began to clear up, and we
immediately tacked, and fleered in for the land. At noon,
we had a pretty good obfei'vation, which enabled us to de-
termine the latitude of Bligh's Cap, which is the northcrn-
moft illand, to be 48" 29' South, and its longitude 68'' 40'
Eaft +. We paffed it at three o'clock, ftanding to the South
South Eaft, with a frefli gale at Weft.

Soon after we faw the land, of which we had a faint view
in the morning ; and at four o'clock it extended from South
Eaft i Eaft, to South Weft by South, diftant about four
miles. The left extreme, which I Judged to be the North-
ern point of this land, called, in the French Chart of the

* This idc, or nci; was the fingle point about which Captain Cook had received tlie
Icaft information at TenerifFe ; and we may obfervo how fagacious he was in tracing
it. What he could only fpeak of as probable, a comparifon of his Chart with that lately
publiftied by Kerguelen, proves to be certain ; and if he had even read and copied what
his predcceflbr in the difcovcry fays of it, he c lid fcarcely have varied his account of
its (hape. Kerg J -n's words are, " JJle de Reunion, qui n'eft qu'une Rock; nous fervoit
•' tie Rindezvous, ou de point de rallienicnt; & refTemblc n uii '/« de min."

t The Frem h and Engli/h agree very nearly (as mi;^ -.t be ;xi)e£led) in their accounts
of the latitude of tiiis ifland; but the obfervations by which ihey fix its longitude, vary
confiderably.

The Pile: at Teneriffe made it only 64° 57' Eaft from Paris, which is about
6;" 16' Eaft from London; or i" 24' more Wefterly tlian Captain Cook's obferva-
tions fix it.

Monfieur de Pages fays it is 66° 47' Eaft from Paris, that is 69° 6' Eaft from Lon-
don, or twenty-fix miU-s more Eafterly than it is placed by Captain Cook.

Kerguelen himfelf only fays that it is about 68^ of Eaft longitude, par 68' di- hn-
gitudf,

I 2 Southern

December.

imi

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

December.

J-

Southern Ilemifphere, Cape St. Louis*, terp*l. .etl in a
perpendicular rock, of a conlldcrable heigbf • and the right
one (ncnr which is a detached rock) in a high indented
poin' I. I'j n this point the coaft fecmed i ) turn fliort
roiHii to Jic Southward; for we could fee no land to the
Weftward of the direction in which it now bore to us, but
the illands we had obferved in the morning ; the moll
Southerly I of them lying nearly Weft from the point,
about two or three leafnT^- diftant.

About the nudule of the land there appeared to be an
inlet, for which we fteered ; but, on approaching, found it
was only a bending in the coaft, and therefore bore up to
go round Cape St. I^ouis §. Soon after, land opened off" the

* Hitherto, we have only had occafion to fupply dcfcifls, owing to Captain Cook's
entire ignorance of Kcrguelen's fecond voyage in 1773; we muft now corrcdt errors,
owing to his very limited knowledge of the operations of tlic firft voyage in 1772. The
Chart of the Southern Hcmifphere, his only guide, having given him, as he tells us, the
name of Cape St. Louis (or Cape Louis) as the moft Northerly promontory then feen
by the French ; and his own obfervations now fatisfying him that no part of the main
land ftretchcd farther Nortii than the If/i extreme now before him ; from this fuppofed
fimilarity of fituation, he jiul^ed :hat his own perpendicular 'c. ' muft be the Cape I.ouis
of the firft difcoverers. By looking upon our Chart, we Ihall find Cape Luuis 'ying
upon a very different part of the coaft ; and by comparing this Chart with that lat. 1
publiftied by Kcrguelen, it will appear, in the clearcft majincr, that the Northern poii.
now defcribed by Captain Cook, is the very fame to which the French have given the
name of Cape Francois.

t Tliis right extrene of the coaft, as it now ftjewcd itfclf to Captain Cook, (cems to
be what is rcprelcnted on Kerguelen's Chart under the name of Cape Aubcrt. It may
be proper to obiervc here, that all that extent of coaft lying between Cape Louis and
Ci'p-; Francois, of which tl)' French faw very little during their firft vifit in 1772, and
may be called the North W eft fide of this land, they had it in their power to trace the
pofition of in 1773, and have alligned names to feme of its bays, rivers, and promon-
tories, upon their Chart.

X Kcrguelen's Ille de Clu^rny.

§ Cape Francois, as already obferved.

Cape,

.h i

i¥

» »

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

1776.

December.

Cape, in the dircdion of South 53° Eaft, and appearci ;\) h^
a pt)int at a tonfulcrablc dillancc ; for the trending ot the
coall from the Cape was more Southerly. We alio law
ieveral rocks and iilands to the Ealhvard of the above di-
rections, the moll diilant of which was about fevcn leagues
from the Cape, bearing South SS" Eaft •>.

We had no fooner got off the Cape, than we obferved the
coaft, to the Southward, to be much indented by projcdling
points and bays ; fo that we now made fure of foon finding
a good harbour. Accordingly, we had not run a mile far-
ther, before we difcovered one behind the Cape, into which
we began to ply ; but after making one board, it fell calm,
and we anchored at the entrance in forty-five fathoms wa-
ter, the bottom black fand ; as did the Difcovery foon after.
I immediately difpatched Mr. Bligh, the Mafter, in a boat to
foimd the harbour; who, on his return, reported it to be
Tafe and commotlious, with good anchorage in every part ;
and great plenty of frefli water, feals, penguins, and other
birds on the fliore ; but not a ftick of wood. While we lay
at anchor, we obfervetl that the flood tide came from the
South Eaft, running two knots, at leaft, in an hour.

At day-break, in the morning of the 25th, we weighed Wednef. 25.
with a gentle breeze at Weft; and having wrought into the
harbour, to within a quarter of a mile of the ^ndy beach
at its head, we anchored in eight fathoms waa. i ^ bottom
a fine dark fand. The Difcovery did not lu till two

o'clock in the afternoon; when Captain ( , ., u'^ormed
me, that he had narrowly efcaped being dnvu - • i i .0 South

* The obfervations of the French, round Cape Frrin^ois, remarkably coincide with
Captain Cook's in tliis paragraph ; and the rocks and jflands here mcntic.icd by him, alfo
appear upon their Chart.

point

*,, «^, :.,

Ifilt^'

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

December.

&*■•

point of the harbour, his anchor having ftarted before they
had time to fliorten in the cable. This obliged them to fet
fail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to
heave it up ; and then they found one of its palms was
broken off.

As ibon as we had anchored, I ordered all the boats to
be hoilled out ; the fliip to be moored with a kcdge anchor ;
and the water-cafks to be got ready to fend on fliore. hi
the mean time I landed, to look for the moll convenient fpot
\\'hcre they might be filled, and to fee what elfe the place
afforded.

I found the fhore, in a manner, covered with penguins
and other birds, and feals. Thefe latter were not nume-
rous, but fo infenfible of fear (which plainly indicated that
they were vmaccuftomed to fuch viliters), that we killed as
many as we chofe, for the fake of their fat or blubber, to
make oil for our lamps, and other ufes. Frefli water vis
in no lefs plenty than were birds ; for e>'ery gully afforded
a large ftream. B\it not a iingle tree or llirub, nor the lealt
fign of any, was to be difcovered, and but very little herb-
age of any fort. The appearances, as we failed into the
harbour, had flattered us with the hope of meeting with
fomething confiderabie growing here, as we obferved the
fides of many of the hills to be of a lively green. But I now
foi:nd that this was occafioned by a llngle plant, which,
with the other natural produdions, (liall be defcribed in
another place. Before I returned to my fliip, I afcendcd
the firft ridge of rocks, which rife in a kind of amphithe-
atre above one another. I was in hopes, by this means, of
obtaining a view of the country ; but before I reached the
top, there came on fo thick a fog, that I could hardly find
my way down again. In the evening, we hauled the feine

■n

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

1776.

December.

at the head of the harbour, but caught only half a dozen
fmall fifli. We had no better fuccefs next day, when we
tried with hook and line. So that our only refource here,
for frefli provifions, were birds, of which there was an in-
exhauftible ftore.

The morning of the 26th proved foggy, with rain. How- Thurfday 26.
ever, we went to work to fill water, and to cut grafs for our
cattle, which we found in fmall fpots near the head of the
harbour. The rain which fell, fwelled all the rivulets to
fuch a degree, that the fides of the hills, bounding the har-
bour, feemed to be covered with a flieet of water. For the
rain, as it fell, run into the fifl\ires and crags of the rocks
that compofed the interior parts of the hills, and was pre-
cipitated down their fides in prodigious torrents.

The people having wroiight hard the two preceding days,
and nearly completed our water, which wc filled from a
brook at the left corner of the beach, I allowed them the
27th as a day of refi:, to celebrate Chriftmas. Upon this Friday 27,
indulgence, many of them went on fliore, and made excur-
fions, in different directions, into '.he country, which they
found barren and defolute in the higheft degree. In the
evening, one of them brought to me a quart bottle which
he had found, fattened with fome wire to a projedling rock
on the North fide of the harbour. This bottle contained a
piece of parchment, on which was written the following
infcription :

'A'

^' .

?■■■ ■

;?■ ■ .

■ i'

Ludovico

?K-

1 4'"*'^

1776.

December.

A V O Y A G E TO

Luiiovico XF GaWarum
regey et d. ••'• de Boynes
regi a Secret is ad res
marit'imos annis 1772 et

From this infcription, it is clear, that we were not the
firft Europeans who had been in this harbour. I i'uppoied it
to be left by Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, who went on
fliore in a boat on the 13th of February 1772, the fame day
that Monlieur de Kerguelcn difcovered this land; as ap-
pears by a Note in the French Chart of the Southern He-
mifphcre, publiflied the following year +.

* The (tl)^ no doubt is a coiuiaiSlion of die word Domino, The French Secretary of
the Marine was then Monfieur de Boynes.

f On perufing this paragraph of the Journal, it will be natural to afk, How could Mon-
fieur de Boifguehenneu, in the beginning of 1772, leave an infcription, which, upon the very
face of it, commemorates a tranfa£lion of tiic following year ? Captain Cook's manner of
cxprefling himfelf here, ftrongly marks, that he made this fuppofition, only for want of
information to enable him to make any other. He had no idea that the French had vi-
lilcd this land a fecond time ; and, reduced to the neceflity of trying to accommodate
what he faw himfelf, to what little he had heard of their proceedings, he confounds a
tranfaiSion whicli we, who have been better inftrufted, know, for a certainty, belongs to
the fecond X'oy.ige, with a fimilar one, which his Chart of the Southern Hemifphere has
recorded, and which happened in a different year, and at a different place.

The bay, indeed, in which Monfieur de Boifguehenneu landed, is upon the Weft
fide of tlii-> land, confiderably to the South of Cape Louis, and not far from another
more Southerly promontory, called Cupe Bourbon ; a part of tlie coaft which our fhips
were not upon. Its fituation is marked upon our Chart ; and a particular view of the
bay ilu Lion Marin (for fo Boifguehenneu called it), with the foundings, is preferved by
Kcrguelen.

But if the bottle and infcription found by Captain Cook's people were not left here by
Boifguehenneu, by vvhoir and when were they left ? This we learn moll fatisfaiSorily,
from the accimit^ of Kerguelcn's fecond Voyage, as publiihcd by himfelf and Monfieur
de Hages, which prcfeiit us with the following particulars : 1 hat they arrived on the
Weft r.Je of this land on the i4tli of December 1773 ; that, ftcering to the North Eaft,

they

1-4 if

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I 1776.

wrote on the other fide of the parchment,

Naves Refolution
et Difcovery
' ' ' de Rege Magna Britannia^

■ '■;: <: Decembris 1776.

December.

■ m

I t

I then put it again into a bottle, together with a filver two-
penny piece of 1772 ; and having covered the mouth of the
bottle with a leaden cap, I placed it, the next morning, in Saturday 28.
a pile of ftones eredled for the purpofe, upon a little emi-
nence on the North fliore of the harbour, and near to the

place

they difcovered, on the i6th, the Ijle de Reunion, and the other fmall ifland' as mentioned
above ; that, on the 17th, they had before them the pruicipal land (which they were furc
was conne£ted with that feen by them on the 14th), and a high point of that land, named
by them Cape Francois ; that beyond this Cape, the coaft took a South Eafterly direc-
tion, and behind it they found a bay, called by them Bale de I'Oifeau, from the name of
their frigate ; that they then endeavoured to enter it, but were prevented by contrary
winds and blowing weather, which drove them off tlie coaft Eaftward; but that, at laft,
on die 6th of January, Monfieur de Rofncvet, Captain of the Oifeau, was able to fend his
boat on (hore into this bay, under the command of Monfieur de Rochegude, one of his
officers, who took pojfejjtor of that bay, and of all the country, in the name of the King of
France, with all the requif'e formalitiis,"

Here then we tr.ice, bv tb'; moft unexceptionable evidfince, the hiftory of the bottle
and infcription ; tiic leaving of which was, no doubt, one of the requifitc formalities ob-
ferved by Monfieur de Rochegude on this occafion. And though he did not land till fhe
6t]i of January 1774, yet, as Kcrguelen's (hips arrived upon the coaft on the 14th of
December 1773, and had oifcovered and looked into this very bay on the 17th of that
month, it was with the ftrideft propriety and truth that 1773, and not 1774, was men-
tioned as the date oi ihe difcovcr}'.

We need only look at Kcrguelen's and Cook's Charts, to judge that the Baie de
rOifeau, and the harbour where the French infcription was found, i^ one and tl)c fime
place. But befides this agreement as to the general pofition, the fame concKifmn refults
more decifively ftill, from another tircumftance worth mentioning : The French, as well

Vol. I. K as

: I

'■• '-ill.

t776.
December.

iPl '

A VOYAGE TO

place where it was firft found ; in which pofition it cannot
ef tape the notice of any European, whom chance or defign
may bring into this port. Here I difplayed the Britifli flag,
and named the place Cbri/imas Harboury from otir having
arrived in it on that feltival.

It is the firft, or northemmoft inlet that we meet with on
the South Eaft fide of Cape St. Louis *, which forms the
f " orth fide of the harbour, and is alfo the Northern point of
this land. The fituation alone is fufficient to diftinguifh it
from any of the other inlets ; and, to make it more remark-
able, its South point terminates in a high rock, which is
perforated quite through, fo as to appear like the arch of a
bridge. We law none like this upon the whole coaft t. The

harbour

as the Knglifti vifitcrs of this bay and harbour, have given us a particular Plan , and
whoever compares ours, publifhed in this Volume, with that to be met wit' ^ue-

len's and de Pagcs's Voyages, muft be ft ruck with a refemblance that could only \ii o-
duced by copying one common original with fidelity. Nay, even the foundings are the
fame upon the fame fpots in both Plans, being forty-five fathoms between the two Cap«s,
before the entrance of the bay j fixteen fathoms farther in, where the ftiores begin to con-
trail ; and eight fathoTis up, near the bottom of the harbour.

To thefc particulars, which throw abundant light on this part of our Author's Journal,
I (hall only add, that the diftance of our harbour from that where Boifguehenneu landed
in 1772, is forty leagues. For this wc have the authority of Kerguelen, in the following
pafl'age : " Monfieur de Boifguehenneu defcendit le 13 de Fevrier 1772, dans un bale,
" qu'il nomme Bale du Lion Marin, & prit pofleffion de cctte terre au nom de Roi ; i!
" n'y vit aucune trace d'habitants. Monfieur de Rochegude, en 1774, a dcfcendu danj
" un autre biiie, que noiij avons nomme Baie de I'Oifeau, & cette feconde rade ell a qua-
" rantes lieues de la premiere. II en a egalement pris pofleflion, & il n'y trouva egale-
" ment aucune trace d'habifrits." Kcrguekn^ p. 92.

* Cape Francois, for reafons already alTigned.

t If there could be the leaft doubt remaining of the identity of the Baie de I'Oifeau,
and Chriftmas harbour, the circumftancc of the perforated rock, v/hich divides it from
another bay to the South, would amount to a ftridt dcmonftration. P'or Mooifieur de
Pages had obfervcd this difcriniinating mark before Captain Cook. His words are as
follows : " L'on vit que la cote de I'Eft, voifine du Cap Fran9ois, avoit deux baies ;

« clles

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

«7

harbour has another diftingiiifliing mark within, from a 7778.
fingle ftone or rock, of a vaft fize, which lies on the top of ^^' -^"^
a hill on the South fide, nei'.r its bottom ; and oppolite this,
on the North fide, there is another hill, much like it, but
fmaller. There is a Imall beach at its bottom, where we
commonly landed; and, behind it, fome gently rifing
ground ; on the top of which is a large pool of frelh water.
The land on both fides of the inlet is high, and it runs in
Weft, and Weft North Weft, about two miles. Its breadth
is one mile and a (juarter, for more than half its length ;
above which it is only half a mile. The depth of water,
which is forty "five fathoms at the entrance, varies, as we
proceed farther in, from thirty, to five and four fathoms,
as marked upon the Plan. The lliores are fteep ; and the
bottom is every where a fine dark fand, except in fome
places clofe to the lliore, where the, ^ are beds of lea-weed,
which always grows t)n rocky groun. The head of the
harbour lies open only to two points of the compafs ; and
even thefe are covered by illands in the ofling, fo that no
fea can fall in to hmut a Ihip. The appearances on fiiore
confirmed this ; for we found grafs growing clofe to high-
water mark, whici) is a iure fign of a pacific harbour*.

" dies etoient feparees par une pointc tth reconnoifllible par fa forme-, qui repreftntoit unt
" porti- cocl)ere, an travin de Uiquellel'on voyoit le jour.'" Voyages du M. tie Pages, Vol. ii.
p. 67. K very cue knows how exaftly the form <i( a porte coiherr, or arched gateway,
correfponds with that of the arch of a bridge. It is very fatisfadory to find the two navi-
gators, neither af whom knew any thing of the other's dcfcriptioii, adopting the fame
idea ; which both proves, that they hiid the feme uncommon object before tlieir eyes, and
that they made an accuratr report.

* In the Lift Note, we itw how remarkably Monficur de Pages and Captain Cook
agree about the appearance of the South Point of the iiarbour ; I Ihall htri' aibjoin ano-
ther quotation from the former, contaijiing his account of tiie li 'rbour iUiif, in which the

K 2 Reader

!* n

I')

•i

1776.

December.

•«

A VOYAGE TO

It is high-water here, at the fuU and change days, about ten
o'clock ; and the tide rifes and falls about four feet.

After I had iiniflied this bufincis of the inlcription, I
went in my boat round the harbour, and landed in feveral
places, to examine what the Ihorc afforded ; and, particu-
larly, to look for drift wood. For, although no.: land here
was totally deltitute of trees, this might not he the cafe in
other parts ; and if there were any, the torrents would force
fome, or, at leaft, fome branches, into the fea, which would
afterward throw them upon the Ihores ; as in all other
countries where there is wood, and in inany where there
is none : but throughovit the whole extent of the harbour,
I found not a fingle piece.

In the afternoon, I went upon Cape lit. Louis •', accompa-
nied by Mr. King, my Second Lie\itenant. I was in hopes,
from this elevation, to have had a view of the fea-coaft, and

Reader may trace the fame diftinguifliing features obfer\ed by Captain Cook in the fore-
going paragraph.

" Le 6, Ton mit a terre dans la premiere baie a I'Eft du Cap Francois, & Ton prit
" pofle/noii dc ces contrees. Ce mouiilage confiftc en une petite rade, qui a environs
" quatres encablures, ou quatre cents toifes de profondeur, fur un tiers en fus de largeur.
" En dedans de cette rade eft un petit port, dont I'entrec, de quatres encablures de lar-
" geur, prcfcnte au Sud-Eft. La fonde de la petite rade eft depuis quarante-cinq
" jufqu'a treiite brafles ; et celle du port depuis feize jufqu'ii huit. Le fond dcs deux eft
" de fable noir et vafeux. La cote des deux bords eft haute, & par unc pente tres rude ;
" elie eft Couverte de verdure, & il y a une quantitc prodigieufe d'Outardes. Le fond du
" port eft occupc par un monticule qui laiilc cntre lui, et la mer une plage de fable.
" Unc petite riviere, de tres bonne cau, coule a la mcr dans cct endroit ; & clle eft
" fournic par un lac qui eft un peu au loin, au deftus du monticule. II y avoit fur le
" plage bcaucoup dc pinguoins & dc lions marins. Ces deux efpeces d'animaux ne
" fuyoicnt pas, & Ton augura que le pays n'ctoit point habite ; la terre rapportoit de
" I'herbe large, noire, & bien nourrie, qui n'ax'oit cc[)endant que cinque pouces ou plus
" de hauteur. L'on ne vit aucun arbrc, ni figne d'habiution." f^oyage du Monfuur de
" Pages., Tom. ii. p. 6g, 70.

* Cspc Francois.

■•■■'>?•(

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

1776.

December.

of the iflands lying off it. But, when I got up, I found
every diftant object below me hid in a thick fog. The
land on the fame plain, or of a greater height, was vifible
enough, and appeared naked and defolate in the higheft
degree ; except fome hills to the Southward, which were
covered with fnow.

When I got on board, I found the launch hoifted in, the

fliips unmoored, and ready to put to fea ; but our failing

was deferred till five o'clock the next morning, when we Sunday 29,

weighed anchor.

C H A ]\

A VOYAGE r O

CHAP. V.

1776.

December.

Departure *)om Cbrijlmas Harbour.'— Range along the Coafl-,
to difcover its Pofition and Extent. — Several Promontories
and Bays-, and a Peninfula, defcribed and named. — Danger
frofn Shoals. -^Another Harbour and a Sound. — Mr. An-
derfon''s Obfervations on the natural P rod utf ions ^ Animals^
Soil, ^c. of Kerguelen's Land.

AS Ibon as the fliips were out of Chrillmas Harbour, we
fleered South Ealt { South, along the coaft, with a
Sunday 29. fine brecze at North North Weft, and clear weauier. This
we thought the more fortunate, as^ for fome time paft, fogs
had prevailed, more or lefs, every day ; and the continu-
ance of them would have defeated our plan of extending
Kerguelen's difcovery. We kept the lead conftantly go-
ing ; but feldom ftruck ground with a line of fifty or fixty
fathoms.

About feven or eight o'clock, we were off a promontory,
which I called Cape Cumberland. It lies a league and a
half from the South point of Chriftmas Harbour, in the
dirc<5lion of South Eaft \ South. Betw ten them is a bay
with two arms, both of which feemed to afford good flielter
for fhipping. CHt" Cai')e Cumberland is a fmall but pretty
high illand, on the fvuumit of which is a rock like a fen-
try-box, \Nhich <Kvaiioned our giving that name to the
iiland. IVo miles farther to the Eaftward, lies a group of
3 fmall

■r^-

THE PACIFIC OCEAN,

fmall ittands and rocks, vdih broken ground about them :
we iliiled between thele and Sentry-Box Illand, the channel
being a hill mile broad, and mere than forty fathoms deep ;
for we found no bottom with that length of line.

Being through this channel, we difcovered, on the South
fide of Gape Cumberland, a bay, running in three leagues
to the Weftward. It is formed by this Cape to the North,
and by a promontory to the South, which I named Poinl
Pringle, after my good friend Sir John Pringle, Prefident
of the Royr' 'Jociety. The bottom of this bay was called
Cumberland liay ; and it feemed to be disjoined from the fea,
which waflies tbc North Well coaft of this country, by a
narrov neck of land. Appearances, at leaft, favoured fuch
a conjedli '*e.

To the southward of Point Pringle, the coaft is formed
into a fifth bay ; of which this point is the Northern ex-
treme ; and from it, to the Southern extreme, is about four
miles in the dire(5tion of South South Eaft j Eaft. In this
bay, which obtained the Name of JVhits Bay, on account of
lome white fpotr, of land or rocks in the bottom of it, arc
leveral leifer bays or coves, which feemed to be fheltered
from all winds. Off the South point, are leveral rocks
which raife their heads above water ; and^ probably, many
more that do not.

Thus l-»i our courfe was in a dire«5lion parallel to the
coaft, and i;^^t more than two miles from it. Thither our
glafles we^ 2 continually pointed ; and we could eafily fee
that, except the bottoms of the bays and coves, which, for
the moft part, terminated in <andy beaches, the Ihores were
rocky, and, in many places, I'warmed with birds ; but the
country hul ihe fame barren and naked appearance as in
the neighb >nrhood of Chriftmas Harbour.

1776.

D«c«inb*r.

■:■ -'

; '1

1776,

December.

A VOYAGE TO

We had kept, on our larboard bow, the land which firft
opened otf Cape St. Louis*, in the diredtion or South 53" Eall,
thinking that it was an illand, ^ ;• , hat we flioiUd find a
paffage between it and the main. We now difcovcred this
to be a mirtake ; and found that it was a peninlula, joined
to the rell of the coaft by a low iithmus. 1 called the bay,
formed by this peninfula, RepiiJfe Bay ; and a branch of it
feemed to run a good way inland towards the South South
Well. Leaving this, we fteered for the Northern point of
the pcninfida, which we named Howe's Foreland^ in honour
of Admiral Lord Howe.

As we drew near it, we perceived fome rocks and break-
ers near the North Weft part; and two illands a league
and a half to the Eaftward of it, which, at firft, appeared
as one. I fteered between them and the f'orelandf, and
was in the middle of the channel by noon. At that time
our latitude, by obfervation, was 48" 51' South; and we
had made twenty-fix miles of Eaft longitude from Cape
St. Louis \.

From this fituation, the moft advanced land to the South-
ward bore South Eaft ; but the trending of the coaft from
the Foreland was more Southerly. The illands which lie
off Chriftmas Harbour bore North ; and the North point of
the Foreland, North 60" Weft, diftant three miles. The land

I'";

* CiiiK Francois.

t Though Kerguclen's ftiips, in 1773, did not venture to explore this part of the
coaft, Moiifieur de Pages's account of it anfwcrs well to Captain Cook's. " Du 17
" au 23, Ton ne prit d'autrc connoiflance que celk- de la figure de la cote, qui, couraiU
" d'abord au Sud-Ell, ii rcvcnant enfuite au Nord-Eft, formoit un grand goifc. II ctoit
" occupc par des brifaiis & dcs rothers ; il avoit aufli une iflc bafle, & afTez etendue, &
" Ton ufa d'unc bien foigncufe prcc.wtion, pour ne pas s'aft'alcr dans ce golfe." Foya^e
du M. de Pagh^ Tom. ii. p. 67.

X Cape Fraji^'ois.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

of this Pcninfula, or Foreland, is of a moderate height,
and of a hilly and rocky luhilancc. The coaft is low, with
rocky points fhootinc; out from it ; between which ixnius
are little coves, with Inndy beaches ; and thcfe, at this time,
were mollly covered \\ith fea birds. We alfo Hiw upon
them fome feals.

As foon as wc were clear of the rocks and iflands before
mentioned, ;, e orders to fteer South Eaft by South, alo' ■
the court. II fore thefe orders could be carried int'» ' ,v-

caution, ' '-^d the whole fea before us to 1 .it -

(piered wi Js of rock-weed, which we knew to be

fart to the .. ai, and to grow on rocky flioals. I had
often found a great depth of water on fuch (hoals ; and 1
had, as often, found rocks that have raifed their heads
nearly to the fiirface of the water. It is always dangerous,
therefore, to fiiil over them before they are well examined ;
but more efpeciaUy, when there is no furge of the fea to
difcover the danger. This was the cafe at prefent, for the
fea was as fmooth as a mill-pond. Confequently we endea-
voured to avoid them, by fleering through the winding
channels by w hich they were feparated. We kept the lead
continually going ; but never ftruck ground with a line of
fixty fathoms. This circumftance increafed the danger, as
we could not anchor, whatever necelTity there might be for
it. After running in this manner above an hour, we difco-
vered a lurking rock, juft even with the furface of the fea.
It bore North Eaft i Eaft, diftant three or four miles, and
lay in the middle of one of thefe large beds of weeds. This
was a fufficient warning to make us ufe every precaution
to prevent our coming upon them.

We were now crofs the mouth of a large bay, that lies
about eight miles to the Southward of Howe's Foreland. In

Vol. I. L and

7.i

1776.

December.

inS> ^vv>

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

/.Q

«.

.V^fe

1.0

I.I

1^128 |2.5

£ li£ 12.0

"« i

.25 i 1.4

IE
1.6

Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WIST MAIN STRUT

WEBSTER, NY. M5S0

(716) 873-4503

... 1^

<*.

^'h'-

t/.

^°

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

December.

■■'*' ■

f ^-

,; ■

ri'

iiil

li'

'd ■

■vS''
I'-

and before the entrance of this bay are feveral low iflands,
rocks, and thofe beds of fea-weed. But there feemed to be
winding channels between them. After continuing our
courfe half an hour longer, we were fo much embarraffed
with thefe fhoals, that I refolved to haul off to the Eaft-
ward, as the likelieft means of extricating ourfelves from
the danger that threatened us. But ib far was this from
anfwering the intended purpofe, that it brought us into
more. I therefore found it abfolutely neceffary to fecure
the Ihips, if poffible, in fome place before night ; efpecially
as the weather had now become hazy, and a fog was ap-
prehended. And feeing fome inlets to the South Weft of us,
I ordered Captain Gierke, as the Difcovery drew lefs water
than the Refolution, to lead in for the fhore ; which was
accordingly done.

In ftanding in, it was not poffible to avoid running over
the edges of fome of the Ihoals, on which we found from
ten to twenty fathoms water ; and the moment we were
over, had no ground at the depth of fifty fathoms. After
making 1 few boards to weather a fpit that run out from
an illand on our lee, Gaptain Gierke made the fignal for
having difcovered an harbour ; in which, about five o'clock,
we anchored in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of
fine dark fand, about three quarters of a mile from the
ihore ; the North point of the harbour bearing North by
Eaft i Eart, one mile diftant ; and the fmall illands in the
entrance, within which we anchored, extending from Eaft
to South Eaft.

Scarcely were the fhips fecured, when it began to blow

very ftrong ; fo that we thought it prudent to ftrike top*

gallant yards. The weather, however, continued fair ; and

the wind difperfing the fog that had fettled on the hills, it

I was

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

was tolerably clear alfo. The moment, therefore, we had
anchored, I hoifted out two boats ; in one of which I fent
Mr. Bligh, the Mafter, to furvey the upper-part of the har-
bour, and look, for wood ; for not a fhrub was to be feen
from the Ihip. I alfo defired Captain Gierke to fend his
Mafter to found the channel that is on the South fide of the
fmall illes, between them and a pretty large illand which
lies near the South point of the harbour. Having given
thefe dire<Slions, I went myfelf, in my other boat, accompa-
nied by Mr. Gore, my firft Lieutenant, and Mr. Bayly, and
landed on the North point, to fee what I could difcover
from thence.

From the higheft hill over the point, we had a pretty
good view of the fea-coaft, as far as Howe's Foreland. It is
much indented, and feveral rocky points feemed to llioot
out from it, with coves and inlets of unequal extent. One
of the latter, the end of which I could not fee, was dif-
joined from that in which the fhips were at anchor, by the
point we then ftood upon. A great many fmall iilands,
rocks, and breakers appeared fcattered along the coaft, as
well to the Southward as Northward ; and ■ I faw no better
channel to get but of the harbour, than by the one through
which we had entered it.

While Mr. Bayly and I were making the obfervations, Mr.
Gore encompaffed the hill ; and joined us by a different
route, at the place where I had ordered the boat to wait for
us. Except the craggy precipices, we met with nothing to
obftru(5t our walk. For the country was, if poflible, more
barren and defolate than about Chriftmas Harbour. And
yet, if there be the leaft fertility in any part of this land,
we ought to have found it in this, which is completely
fheltered from the predominating bleak Southerly and

L 2 Wefterly

1776-

December.

I I J

Ij-

«1 i-4

1I '■.:i

is '

■ M

A VOYAGE TO

l.i!

i7;6. Wefterly winds. I obferved, with regret, that there was
Decemben^ neither food nor covering for cattle of any fort ; and that,
if I left any, they muft inevitably perifh. In the little cove
where the boat waited for us (which I called Penguin Cove,
as the beach was covered with thefe birds), is a fine rivulet
of frefli water, that may be eafily come at. Here were alfo
fome large feals, (hags, and a few ducks ; and Mr. Bayly
had a tranlient fight of a very fmall land bird ; but it flew
amongft the rocks, and we lofi: it. About nine o'clock we
got on board. ■'"■> '■'

Soon after, Mr. Bligh returned, and reported, that he had'
been four miles up the harbour, and, as he judged, not far
from the head of it. He found that its diredlion was Weft
South Weft ; and that its breadth, a little above the (hips,
did not exceed a mile ; but grew narrower toward the head.
The foundings were very irregular, being from thirty-feven
to ten fathoms ; and, except under the beds of fea-weed,
which in many places extended from the fliore near half
channel over, the bottom was a fine fand. He landed on
both fhores, which he found barren and rocky, without the
leaft figns of tree or (hrub, and with very little verdure of
any kind. Penguins, and other oceanic birds and feals, oc-
cupied part of the coaft ; but not in fuch nur s as at
Chriflmas Harbour.

Finding no encouragement to continue our refearches,
Monday 30. and, the next morning, both wind and weather being fa-
vourable, I weighed anchor and put f? fea. To this harbour
I gave the name of Port Pallifer^ in honour of my worthy
friend Admiral Sir Hugh Pallifer. It is fituated in the lati-
tude of 49° 3' South, in the longitude of 69° 37' Eaft, and
five leagues from Howe's Foreland, in the diredion of South
25° Eaft. There are feveral iflands, rocks, and breakers

lying

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

lying in and without the entrance, for which the annexed
Chart of the coaft, and fketch of the harbour, may be con-
fulted. We went in and out between them and the North
head ; but I have no doubt that there are other channels^

As we were Handing out of Port Pallifer, we difcovered a
round hill, like a fugar-loaf, in the direction of South 72°
Eaft, about nine leagues diflant. It had the appearance of
an illand lying at fome diftance from the coaft ; but we af-
terward found it was upon the main land. In getting out
to fea, we had to fteer through the winding channels
amongft the Ihoals. However, we ventured to run over
fome of them, on which we never found lefs than eighteen
fathoms, and often did not ftrike ground with twenty-four ;
fo that, had it not been for the fea-weed growing upon all
of them, they would not have been difcovered.

After we had got about three or four leagues from the
coaft, we found a clear fea, and then fteered Eaft till nine
o'clock, when the Sugar Loaf hill, above mentioned, which
I named Mount Campbell, bore South Eaft, and a fmall
ifland that iies to the Northward of it, South South Eaft,
diftant four leagues. I now fteered more Southerly, in or-
der to get in with the land. At noon, the latitude by double
altitudes was 49° 8' South ; and we had made eighty miles
of Eaft longitude from Cape St. Louis *. Mount Campbell
bore South 47° "W eft, diftant about four leagues ; a low
point, beyond which no land was to be feen, bore South
South Eaft, at the diftance of about twenty miles ; and we
were about two leagues from the ft«.ore.

The land here is low and level +.

about

* Cape Francois.

t This part of the coaft feems to be what the French faw on the 5th of January 1 774.
Moiifieur de Pages fpeaks of it thus : " Nous recomiumes une nouvelle cote etendue de

" toutt

December;

The mountains endincr

• i
', j

• ■ .'Mi

■'i

; i:':.

A VOYAGE TO

December.

:|. I

lli,

about five leagues from the low point, a great extent of low
land is left, on which Mount Campbell is fituated, about
four miles from the foot of the mountains, and one from
the fea coaft. Thefe mountains have a confiderable eleva-
tion, as alfo moft of the inland ones. They feemed to be
compofed of naked rocks, whofe fummits were capt with
Inow. Nor did the valleys appear to greater advantage.
To whatever quarter we directed our glaffes, nothing but
iterility was to be feen.

We had fcarcely finilhed taking the bearings at noon,
before we obferved low land opening off the low point jult
mentioned, in the diredlion of South South Eaft, and eight
miles beyond it. This new point proved to be the very
Eaftern extremity of this land, and it was named Cape Dig-
by. It is lituated in the latitude of 49° 23' South, and in the
longitude of 70° 34' Eaft.

Between Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, ihe fliore
forms (befides the feveral leffer bays and harboiu's) one
great bay that extends feveral leagues to the South Weft,
where it feemed to lofe itfelf in various arms running in
between the moimtains. A prodigious quantity of fea-
weed grows all over it, which feemed to be the fame fort of
weed that Mr. Banks diftinguiflied by the name oi fucus
giganteus^'. Some of this weed is of a moft enormous length,
though the ftem is not much thicker than a man's thumb.
I have mentioned, that on fome of the flioals upon which it
grows, we did not ftrike ground with a line of twenty-four
fathoms. The depth of water, therefore, muft have been

" toute veu dans I'Eft, & dans le Oueft. LeS terres de cette cote etoient moins elcvees
" que celles que nous avioiis veues jufques ici ; elles etoient auiB d'un afpedl moins rude."
De Pages, Tom. ii. p. 68.

• See Hawkefwortb's Collcflion of Voyages, Vol. ii. p. 42.

greater.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

greater. And as this weed does not grow in a perpendicu- 1776.
lar direction, but makes a very acute angle with the hot- ^^*"°*'*'^;
torn, and much of it afterward fpreads many fathoms on
the furface of the fea, I am well warranted to fay, that
fome of it grows to the length of fixty fathoms and up-
ward.

- At one o'clock (having run two leagues upon a South
Eaft i Eaft courfe, from noon) we founded, and found
eighteen fathoms water, and a bottom of fine fand. Seeing
a fraall bending in the coaft, on the North fide of Cape
Digby, I fleered for it. It was my intention to anchor there,
if 1 fliould And it might be done with fafety, and to land
on the Cape, to examine what the low land within it pro-
duced. After running in one league, we foimded again,
and found thirteen fathoms ; and immediately after, faw a
fhoal right before us, that feemed to extend oflf from the
fliore, from which we were diflant about two miles. This
difcovery obliged us to haul off, Eaft by South, one league,
where our depth of water increafed to twenty-five fathoms.
We then fleered along fhore, and continued in the fame
depth, over a bottom of fine fand, till Cape Digby bore
Wefl, two leagues diflant, when we found twenty-fix fa-
thoms.

After this we did not flrike ground, though we tried
feveral times ; but the fhip having a good deal of way, ran
the line out before the lead could reach the bottom ; and
being difappointed in my views both of anchoring and of
landing, I would not fhorten fail, but pufhed forward, in
order to fee as much of the coatl as poffible before night.
From Cape Digby, it trends nearly South Wefl by South
for about four or five leagues, or to a low point, to which,

ill

!-;l:;

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

December.

f \ "^

M' '

M ■

*■

F ; ^' '

r.i

J-;

ill honour of her Majefty, I gave the name of Pomf Char-
hti€y and it is the Southe -nmoft on the low coaft. ..

Six leagues from Gape Digby, in the diretStion of Sovitli
South Weft \ Weft, is a prettv high proje<Sling point, which
Avas called Prince of Wales's /j' eland \ and fix leagues be-
yond that, in the fame diredlion, and in the latitude of 49°
54' South, and the longitude of 70° 13' Eaft, is the moft
Southerly point of the whole coaft, which 1 diftinguilhed by
the name of Cape George., in honour of his Majefty. ^'<

Between Point Charlotte and Prince of Wales's Foreland,
where the country to the South Weft began again to be
hilly, is a deep inlet, which was called Royal Sound. It
runs in Weft, quite to the foot of the mountains which
bound it on the South Weft, as the low land before-men*
tioned does on the North. There are iflands lying in the
entrance, and others higher up, as far as we could diftin-
guifli. As we advanced to the South, we obferved, on the
South Weft fide of Prince of Wales's Foreland, another
inlet into Royal Sound; and it then appeared, that the
Foreland was the Eaft jxjint of a large illand lying in the
mouth of it. There are feveral fmall iflands in this inlet ;
and one about a league to the Southward of Prince of Wales's
Foreland.

All the land on the South Weft fide of Royal Sound, quite
to Cape George, is compofed of elevated hills, that rife di-
rectly from the fea, one behind another, to a confiderable
height. Moft of the fummits were capt with fnow, and
they appeared as naked and barren as any we had feen.
The fmalleft veftige of a tree or flirub was not difcoverable,
either inland or on the coaft ; and, I think, I may venture
to pronounce that the country produces none. The low

land

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

land about Cape Digby, when examined through our glaffes,
refembled the reft of the low land we had before met with ;
that is, it appeared to be partly naked and partly covered
with a green turf ; a defcription of which Ihall be given in
its proper place. The ihore is compofed of fandy beaches,
on which were many penguins, and other oceanic birds ;
and an immenfe number of Ihags kept perpetvially flying
about the ftiips as we failed along. w,, ., ,y » vj;.^'

Being defirous of getting the length of Cape George, to
be aiTured whether or no it was the moft Southerly ix)int of
the whole land, I continued to ftretch to the South, under
all the fail we could carry, till half an hour paft feven
o'clock ; when, feeing no likelihood of accomplifhing my
defign, as the wind had, by this time, Ihifted to Weft South
Weft, the very dire<ftion in which we wanted to go, I took
the advantage of the ftiifting of the wind, and ftood away
from the coaft.

At this time Cape George bore South ^^^ Weft, diftant
about feven leagues. A fmall ifland that lies off the pitch
of the Cape, was the only land we could fee to the South
of it ; and we were farther confirmed that there was no
more in that quarter, by a South Weft fweU which we
met as foon as we brought the Cape to bear in this direc-
tion.

But we have ftill a ftronger proof that no p ^^t of this land
can extend much, if at all, to the Southwa d of Cape
George ; and that is, Captain Fumeaux's track in February
1773, ^ft^'* ^^5 feparatioii from me during my late voyage.
His log-book is now lying before me ; and I find from it,
that he croffed the meridian of this land only about feven-
teen leagues to the Southward of Cape George ; a diftance
at which it may very well be feen in clear weather. This
Vol. I. M feems

»i

1776. ,

December.

■v:. I

^l!'!^

r' 1 '

■m

■ i^'-'--''f^r.-rP>.v'^ '--.t^s:"

|':|

(1 ■• "r 1

1 : ,■; ,.

(5 :

"' n !

HI I

;,' '

Ufa ^"

December.

''/

A VOYAGE TO i

fecms to have been the cafe when Captain Fumeaux pafTed
it. For his log-book makes no mention of fogs or hazy
weather ; on the contrary, it exprefsly tells us, that, when
in this fituation, they had it in their power to make obfer-
vations, both for latitude and longitude, on board his (hip ;
fo that, if this land extends farther South than Cape George,
it would have been fcarcely poflible that he Ihould have

pafled without feeing it. ^^.u*. i^ui^&i ^.. u.. i^^iiu.-.^h .^.J .

From thefe circumftances we are able to determine,
within a very few miles, the quantity of latitude that this
land occupies ; which does not much exceed one degree
and a quarter. As to its extent from Eaft to Weft, that
ftill remains undecided. We only know, that no part
of it can reach fo far to the Weft as the meridian of 65°;
becaufe, in 1773, under that meridian, I fearched for it in
vain *.

The French difcoverers, with fome reafon, imagined Cape
St. Louis + to be the proje<5ling ix)int of the Southern conti-
nent.

■ 'A

* If the French obfervations, as marked upon Captain Cook's Chart, and ftill more
authentically upon that publifhed by their own difcoverers, may be depended upon, this
land doth not reach fo far to the Weft as the meridian of 68°; Cape Louis, which
is reprefentcd as its moft Wefterly point, being laid down by them to the Eaft of that
meridian.

+ The idea of Cape Louis being this projc(£ting point of a Southern continent, muft
have foon vaniflied, as Cape Francois, within a year after, was found, by the fame difco-
vercr, to lie above one third of a degree farther North upon the fame land. But if Ker-
guelen entertained any fuch imagination at Arft, we are fure that, at prefent, he thinks
very differently. This appears from the following explicit declaration of his fentiments,
which defervcs to be tranfcribed from his late publication, as it docs equal honour to his
candour, and to Captain Cook's abilities. " La terre que j'ai decouverte eft certainc-
" ment une IJle; puifque le c61ebre Capita ie Cook a pafle au Sud, lors de fon premiere
" voyage, fans rien rencontrer. Je juge memc, que cette iflc n'rfi pat Hen grandi. II y
** a auffi appareoce, d'apres le Voyage de Monficur Cook, que toute cette etendue de

" Mcrs

'•tj.. lU

¥/'

I'llli r \ii .\ .7 .\l I Iii'il 1 '( li II (,.'// /i/'

— r*wv..

•A i<fi,ii .\\' I'l I I'.'iiil A,//., ,v' • .• /

^ H'\^ .V /i /, .• . / .' ,' ''. ^ /''■/■

MtiSiMMilMl

\ M

t ■ ' . . , / > !•/.

•//, ,v ; ; 1 1 ' r

i^..

ii%»l,».

iljr.l I ullH ..'/.■ hl'l^'t r> I \ v I. t.\ /'.

,\i' !m '■! r.'iiit A,//..' .V''.' • ///,'/. ,/.■■.'.////

'. : ■ I J : ■■. ^ /'"■/./.• Av// .,/•./,//

mmmimm

wmm

WSilffml^

mil.

MMl««i«a>^

'-^fg^^W

/r.. //

^ m

!,:«■ .; >

I .^ y ■" ,

ffii

H *!•( -a«2SiiS^^K'

...jlS^i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

nent. The Englifti have fince proved that no fuch continent
exifts ; and that the land in queftion is an ifland of no great
extent*; which, from its fterility, I fhould, with great pro-
priety, call the IJland of Defolation, but that I would not
rob Monfieur de, Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his
name +.

Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who, as I have already men-

" Mere Meridionales, eft femce d'Ifles ou de rochers ; mais qu'il n'y a nl continent ni
" grandt terrt." Kerguelen, p. 92.

* Kerguelen, as we fee in the laft Note, concurs witli Captain Cook as to this.
However, he tells us, that he has reafon to believe that it is about two hundred leagues ia
circuit; and that he was acquainted with about fourfcore leagues of its coaft. " J'en
" connois environs quatre-vit<^t iieues des cotes ; et j'ai lieu de croire, qu'elle a environ
" deux cents Iieues de circuit.*' Kerguelen^ ibid.

t Some of Monfieur de Kerguelen's own countrymen feem more defirous than wc
are, to rob him of this honour. It is very remarkable that Monfieur de Pages never once
mentions the name of his commander. And, though he takes occafion to enumerate the
fcveral French explorers of the Southern Hemifphere, from Gonneville down to Crozet,
he affects to preferve an entire fdence about Kerguelen, whofe firft voyage, in which the
difcovery of this confiderable trad ofland was made, is kept as much out of fight, as if it
never had taken place. Nay, not fatisfied with refufing to acknowledge the right of an-
other, he almoft alTumes it to himfelf. For upon a Map of the World, annexed to his
book, at the fpot where the new land is delineated, we read this inlcripr'on ; Ij!cs nouvclki
Aujirales vuees par Monfieur dt Paghf en 1774. He could fcarcely have exprefled himfelf in
ftronger terms, if he had meant to convey an idea that he was the conductor of the difco-
very. And yet we know, that he was only a Lieutenant [Enfeigne de vaiueau] on board
one of the three Ihips commanded by Kerguelen ; and that the difcovery had been already
made in a former voyage, undertaken while he was aftually engaged in his fingular jour-
ney round the world.

After all, it cannot but be remarked, that Kerguelen was peculiarly unfortunate, in
having done fo little to complete what he had begun. He difcovered a new land indeed}
but, in two expeditions to it, he could not once bring his fhips to an anchor upon any
part of its coafts. Captain Cook, as we have feen in this, and in the foregoing Chapter,
had either fewer difficulties to ftruggle with, or was more fuccefsful in furmounting
tliem.

1776.
December.

^ ilp

|H|

t : ^'.

lij

'■'M

1*1

Mil

M 2

tioned,

I
'I

1776.
Dcceokbcr,

A VOVAGE TO

tioned, had made Natural Hiftory a part of his ftudies, loft
no opportunity, during the Ihort time we lay in Chriftmas
Harbour, of fearching the country in every diredlion. He
afterward communicated to me the obfervations he made
on its natural productions ; and I fhall infert them here in
his own words.

" Perhaps no place, hitherto difcovered in either hemi-
fphere, under the fame parallel of latitude, affords fo fcanty
a field for the naturalift as this barren fpot. The verdure
which appears, when at a little diftance from the fhore,
would flatter one with the expecSlation of meeting with
fome herbage ; but in this we were much deceived. For
on landing, we faw that this lively colour was occafioned
only by one fmall plant, not much uitlike fome forts of
faxifrage, which grows in large fpreading tufts, to a con-
fiderable way up the hills. It forms a furface of a pretty
large texture, and grows on a kind of rotten turf, into
which one finks a foot or two at every ftep. This turf,
dried, might, in cafes of neceflity, ferve for fuel, and is the
only thing we met with here that could poflibly be applied
to this ufe.

There is another plant, plentifidly enough fcattered about
the boggy declivities, which grows to near the height of
two feet, and not much unlike a fmall cabbage, when it
has (hot into feeds. The leaves about the root are nume-
rous, large, and roundefl; narrower at the bafe, and ending
in a fmall point. Thofe on the ftalks are much fmaller,
oblong, and pointed. The ftalks, which are often three
or four, all rife feparately from the root, and run into long
cylindiical heads, compofed of fmall flowers. It has not
only the appearance, but the watery acrid tafte of the anti-

fcorbutic

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fcorbutic plants, and yet differs materially from the whole
tribe ; fo that we looked upon it as a produ^ion entirely
peculiar to the place. We eat it frequently raw, and
found it almoft Hke the New Zealand fcurvy-grafs. But it
feemed to acquire a rank flavour by being boiled ; which,
however, fome of our people did not perceive, and efteemed
it good. If it could be introduced into our kitchen gardens,
it would, in all probability, improve fo far by cultivation,
as to be an excellent pot-herb. At this time, none of its
feeds were ripe enough to be preferved, and brought home,
to try the experiment.

Two other fmall plants were found near the brooks and
boggy places, which were eaten as fallad ; the one almoft
like garden crefles, and very fiery ; and the other very mild.
This laft, though but fmall, is in itfelf a curiofity ; having
not only male and female, but what the botanifts call an-
drogynous plants.

A coarfe grafs, which we cut down for the cattle, grows
pretty plentifully in a few fmall fpots about the fides of the
harbour, with a fmaller fort which is rarer; and, upon
the flat ground, a fort of goofe-grafs, and another fmall
plant much like it. In fliort, the whole catalogue of plants
does not exceed fixteen or eighteen, including fome forts of
mofs, and a beautiful fpecies of lichen, which grows upon
the rocks, higher up than the reft of the vegetable produc-
tions. Nor is there even the leaft appearance of a flinib in
the whole country.

Nature has rather been more bountiful in farnifliing it
with animals ; though, ftri<Slly fpeaking, they are not inha-
bitants of the ^Hce, being all of the marine kind ; and, in
general, only ufing the land for breeding, and for a refting-

place.

« '776-
December.

,Miru^

1 ■ !'-'iC

A VOYAGE TO

1776.

December.

place. The moft conliderable are feals, or (as we ufed to
call them) fea bears ; ])eing that fort called the tirfine feal.
Thel'e come afliore to reft or breed ; but they were not very
numerous, which is not to be wondered at, as it is known
that thefe animals rather frequent out-rocks, and little
iflands lying off coafts, than bays or inlets. They were, at
this time, Ihedding their hair, and fo tame, that we killed
what number we chofe.

No other quadruped, either of the fea or of the land;
kind, was feen ; but a great number of birds, vis. ducks,
petrels, albatrofles, fhags, gulls, and fea-fwallows.

The ducks are about the fize of a teal or widgeon ;
but fomewhat different in colour from either. They were
in tolerable plenty about the fides of the hills, or even
lower ; and we killed a conliderable number, which were
good, and without the leaft fifliy tafte. We met with
fome of the fame fort at the ifland of Georgia, in our late
voyage.

The Cape petrel, or Pintado bird ; the fmall blue one,
which is always feen at fea ; and the fmall black one, or
Mother Carey's Chicken, are not here in great numbers.
But we found a neft of the firft with an egg in it, about the
fize of a pullet's ; and the fecond, though fcarce, was met
with in fome holes like rabbit-burrows.

Another fort, which is the largelt of all the petrels, and
called by the feamen Mother Carey's Goofe, is in greater
numbers; and lb tame, that at firft we could kill them
with a ftick upon the beach. They are not inferior in fize
to an albatrols, and are carnivorous, feeding on the dead
carcafTes of feals or birds, that were thrown into the fea.
Their colour is a footy brown, with a greenifli bill and

3 feet ;

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

feet ; and, doubtlefs, they are the fame that the Spaniards
call quebrantabueffbSj whofe head is figured in Pernetty's
Voyage to Falkland lilands ^s

Of the albatrofles, none were found on Ihore except the
grey one, which is commonly met with at fea in the higher
Southern latitudes. Once I faw one of thefe fitting in the
cliff of a rock, but they were frequently flying about the
harbour ; and the common large fort, as well as the fmaller
with a black face, were feen farther out.

Penguins form, by far, the greateft number of birds
here ; and are of three forts : The firft, or largeft, I have
feen formerly at the ifland of Georgia t. It is alfo men-
tioned by Bougainville % ; but it does not feem to be fo fo-
litary as he reprefents it, for we found confiderable num-
bers flocking together. The head is black, the upper part
of the body a leaden grey, and the under part white, with
black feet. It has two broad ftripes of fine yellow, that
begin on the fides of the head, and defcending by each
fide of the neck, meet above its breafl:. The bill is partly
reddifli, and longer than in the other forts.

The fecond fort of penguin fcarcely exceetls half the fize
of the former. The upper part of the body is a blackifli
grey, with a white fpot on the upper part of the head,
growing broader at each fide. The bill and feet are yel-
lowifli. A very accurate figure and defcription, both of
this and of the preceding, is given by Mr. Sonnerat §.

The third fort of penguin met with here, had never been
feen by any of us before. Its length is twenty-four inches,

* Fig. 3. Plate VIII.

+ Pennant's Patagonian penguin. Sec his Genera of Birds. Tab. 14. p. 66.

\ Voyage autour du Monde-, p. 69.

§ Voyage a la NouvelU Guince, p, i8i, 182. Tab, 113. 115.'

^ '776.
December.

V -I

; )'

'"si" -■ ' 'i'

'" F'*

1776.

December.

A VOYAGETO '

and its breadth twenty. The upper part of the body and
throat are black ; the rell white, except the upper part of
the head, which has a fine yellow arch, looking backward,
and ending on each fide in long loft feathers, which it can
ere A as two crefts.

The two firft forts were found together on the beach ; the
large ones keeping by themfelves, and walking in fmall
flocks amongft the others, which were more numerous, and
were fometimes feen a confiderable way up the fides of the
hills. The third fort were only found by themfelves, but
in great numbers, on the outer Ihores of the harbour.
They were breeding at this time ; and they lay, on the
bare ftones, only one white egg, larger than that of a duck.
All the three forts of penguins were fo tame, that we took
as many as we pleafed with our hands.

The fliags of this place are of two forts ; the lefler cor-
vorant or water crow, and another, which is black above,
with a white belly ; the fame that is found in New Zealand,
Terra del Fuego, and the ifiand of Georgia.

We alfo met with here the common fea-gull, fea-fwallow,
tern, and Port Egmont hen ; the laft of which were tame
and numerous.

Another fort of white bird, flocks of which flew about
the bay, is very fingular ; having the bafe of the bill co-
vered with a horny cruft *. It is larger than a pigeon, with
the bill black and the feet white, made like thofe of a cur-
lew. Some of our people put it in competition with the
duck, as food.

The feine was hauled once ; but we foimd only a few fifh
about the fize of a fmall haddock ; though quite different

The fhc.ith-bill. Sec Pennant's Gentra of BirJs^ p. 43.

from

• 3'''Q

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

from any we knew. The fnout is lengthened ; the head
armed with fome ftrong fpines ; the rays of the back-
fin long, and very ftrong ; the belly is large ; and the body
without fcales. The only Ihell filh are a few limpets and
miifcles ; and, amongft the ftones, a few fmall ftar-fifh and
fea-anemonies were foimd.

The hills are of a moderate height ; yet many of their
tops were covered with fnow at this time, though anfwer-
ing to our June. Some of them have large quantities of
ftones, irregularly heaped together at their foot, or on their
fides. The fides of others, which form fteep cliffs toward
the fea, are rent from the top downward, and feem ready
to fall offf having ftones of a confiderable fize lying in the
fiffures. Some were of opinion that froft might bo the caufe
of thefe fiflures, which I ftiall not difpute ; but how others
of the appearances could be efFedted, but by earthquakes,
or fome fuch fevere fliocks, I cannot fay.

It appears that rain muft be almoft conftant here, not
only from the marks of large torrents having ruftied down,
but from the difpofition of the country, which, even on the
hills, is almoft an entire bog or fwamp, the ground finking
at every ftep.

The rocks, or foundations of the hills, are compofed
chiefly of a dark blue, and very hard, ftone, intermixed
with fmall particles of glimmer or quartz. This feems to
be one of the moft univerfal productions of Nature, as it
conflitutes whole mountains in Sweden, in Scotland, at the
Canary Iflands, the Cape of Good Hope, and at this place.
Another brownifli brittle ftone forms here fome confider-
able rocks ; and one which is blacker, and found in de-
tached pieces, inclofes bits of coarfe quartz. A red, a dull
yellow, and a purplifli fand-ftone, are alfo found in fmall

VcL. I. N pieces;

December.

,. «-

•■|! ?'

^« , I'

r ' r

i^^

P '5'i

.776.

JJecember.

AVOYAGETO

l)ieces ; and pretty large lumps of femi-tranlparent quartz,
(Ufpofed irregularly in polyedral pyramidal cryftals of long
fhining fibres. Some fmall pieces of the common fort are
met with in the brooks, made round by attrition ; but
none hard enough to refift a file. Nor were any of the
other ftones a(5led on by aqua fortis, or attradled by the
magnet.

Nothing, that had the leaft appearance of an ore or me-
tal, was feen."

I;v

'1. i.1

TwKK^'

* •■"

CHAP.

i- "

'ii'

fim^ms' i

_ jsac''*- ::!;■_.

. fA ^lttt f < ^y , i iiLt . .WT

-»r/''

.JL:..^l2^

Vli-.i. y IM.T Dlf.Uf.y.'- /,.iA|i ,.i, ,• Hiili-.l '.'.11.. , I. A. /I .Hulilli l'.i|>f *..(/,< .V.VAjV. .////.i/i/ 'mill.'

IViivmlii lll.iii.l
View .;/ /A, /..l.v/ nul.'il f.ll.i. „/„., IVn^iiiii lll.iii.l /. Wl-I.ir , i „i,l, ,ll//,l„l

'^<itf£'^]Bii09"!l9»t-'S-:y;-^

'*^^^aBf^'"

Vifw.y iM.v /iit.Mr.i'y /..i.Yii „/„„ ,/„ .\|,.»i|„iii' /!,,.,., \!f: ,>,//„„i .: ,

JkLu

t') M—ll.,,,,

IV. In. »l.ui«. -,

K.lilvllo

•;.^"n>

1 1

1 4-i -

-^i-'-^i^S^ : ' ■■ ;.LJ:t

m|7

-i-'-i f 1 M-i-i-

I „
I »17 _______

PpTt^PB^^ t -! Ill t-TrT

i|<H

■ .Y. ■ I , T+ ?-FF=F=^-Ff7^' 4n-_H-H-r rl-i-.r-^:i /[ tyj r- ?l^T?TT . -t-rT^Tr{?yr. 7 1^ ."FTr 51 1'*|

L*^%fiiit.# wj M|i j#m^ '!?'^.

^I\l<l.VS

Ul.n

t',llt«-

HuUil I'.tlH-

:i|irKir(lci'i<'kll('iil'V

>.*■• V ^

IVii^iiit lll.iiiil

lb*- ■ < ^* ^ ' v

' fflfhuti ..' ''/«(.

i.v/w/..'//;.v.< /,.i.Y/»

■i.,„tl..I.^1I..Ml

Sniilll ('.III!

..//..' S»illv ».'//. .VIV.-111I1

' I/""

j-i.-

I'.i ,1 -L-L-x irt I "n7j__L_i_.

-H-?^
'l,«"

4-'

-tI

=E5?^j^" "Sr-.'nrilj

H,irnutTj,-njtt

-{-T

I I

M^HiKAW

l»«, • \

Vi»w .y V.t.y DlfMt.iy A.I *l> .•».>• riiili-.l I

.•*.r'.

■3

> ■->

Virw ../ <*. t.l.T/i Kliili'.l t'.l| A.

^]n

Vu'w '/

iM.> liit,Mi.y'.i A.i.Y/i «/«

S W (

^^H|

, «

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

CHAP. VI.

Pajfii^e from Ker^uelcrCs to Van Diemcn^s Land.-- rrivnl
in Adventure Bay. — Incidents tbere.'-'Interviezvs ivith the
:Iatives. — Their Perfons and Drefs dvkribed.— Account of
fbcir Behaviour. — Table of the Lonjritiidei Latitude^ and
Variation. — ^fr. Anderfon's Ohfcrvations on the natural
Prodtitiions of the Country^ on the Inhabitants^ and their
Langna^^e.

AFTER leaving Kcrguclen's Land, I ftccrvc' Ealt by 1-7^..
North, intending, in obedience to my inftrucHons, to ^^"'^^'"^-"''•^
touch next at New Zealand ; to recruit our water, to take
in wood, and to make hay for the cattle. Their number,
by this time, had bctii confiderably diminilhed; two voung
bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and feveral of the goats
having of late died, while we were employed in expl )ring
this defolate coall.

The 3x11 in the morning, being the day after we itood Tucfdavji
out to fea, we had feveral obfervations of the fun uid
moon. Their refults gave the longitude 72" 33' 36" l-alt.
The time-keeper, in this fituatitMi, gave 'j'f 38' 15 '. Th I'iii
obfervations were the more ufeful, as we had not b( n
al)lc to j^et any for fonie time before, and they now fcr\ d
to afl'urc us that no material error had crept into the tinu-
kcepcT.

On tlic III of January, being then in the latitude of 48° 41 ' \Vc'j'"c

N 2 South,

janii.iry.
1.

A VOYAGE TO

f anuar\ .

Thurldijr J.

^uefday ;

Siiiii.

South, longitude 76^ 50' Eaft, the variation was 30" 39' Weft ;
and the next day, in the latitude of 48'' 22' South, longitude
80° 22 Eaft, it was 30" 47' 18' Weft. This was the greatcft
variation we found in this paflage ; for afterward it began
Friday 3. to dccTcafc, hut fo flowlv, that on the 3d, in the evening,
being then in tlie latitude of 48 16 South, longitude 85'
Eaft, it was 29" 38 Weft.

Thus far we had frcfli gales from the Weft and South
Weft, and tolerably dear weather. But now the wind veered
to the North, where it continued eight days, and was at-
tended with a thick, fog. During this time, we ran above
three hundred leagues in the dark. Now and then the wea-
ther would clear up, and give us a light of the fun ; but
this happened very feldom, and was always of fhort conti-
nuance. On the 7th, I hoifted out a boat, and fent an or-
der to Captain Gierke, appointing Adventure Bay, in Van
Diemen's Land, as our place of rendezvous, in cafe of fepa-
ration before we arrived in the meridian of that land. But
we were fortunate enough, amidft all this foggy weather,
by frequently firing guns as fignals, though we feldom faw
each other, not to lofe company.

On the 12th, being in the latitude of 48° 40' South, lon-
gitude 110° 26' Eaft, the Northerly winds ended in a calm;
which, after a few hours, was fucceeded by a w iiid from
the Southward. This, with rain, continued for twenty-four
hours ; when it freftieiied, and veered to the Weft and North
Weft, and brought on fair and dear Aveather.

We continued oiu' co\irle to the Eaftwanl, without meet-
ing with any thing worthy of notice, till lour o'clock in the
morning of the 19th; when, in a iudden r<iiiall of wind,
though the Dikovery received nodamagcjour fore-top-mait
went by the boartl, and carried the main-top-gallant-m:ift

with

Si.nJ..\ I J.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

^777-
January.

with it. This occafioned Ibme delay, as it took lis up the
whole (lay to dear the wreck, and to fit another top-maft.
The former was accompliflied without lofing any part of
it, except a few fathoms of fmall rope. Not having a fpare
main-top-gallant-mall on board, the fore-top-gallant-mall
was converted into one for oiu" immediate ule.

The wind continued Wefterly, blew a frefli gale, and was
attended with clear weather ; fo that Icarcely a day paffed
without being able to get obfervations for fixing the longi-
tude, and the variation of the compafs. The latter de-
creafed in fuch a manner, that in the latitude of 44' 18'
South, longitude 132'' 2 Eail, it was no more than 5^ 34 18"
Well ; and on the 22d, being then in the latitvide of 43"^ 27' wednef.
South, longitude 141' 50 Eail, it was 1° 24' 15'' Eall. So
that we had croffed the line where the compafs has no va-
riation.

On the 24th, at three o'clock in the morning. Me difco- Friday 24.
vered the coail of Van Diemen's Land, bearing North f
Well. At four o'clock, the South Well Cape bore North
North Well i Well ; and the Mewllone, North Eall by Eall,
three leagues diilant. There are feveral illands and high
rocks lying fcattered along this part of the coalt, the South-
ernmoll of which is the Mewllone. It is a round elevated
rock, five or fix leagues diilant from the South Well Cape,
in the direction of South 55' Eall.

At noon, our latitude was 43° 47' South, longitude 147^
Eail ; and tlie fituation of the lands round us as follows :
An elevated round-topiKd hill bore North x'j'^ Well; the
.South Wt<l: Cape North 74 Well; the Mewllone Well i
No'tb ; Swilly Hie or Rock South 49' Ealt ; and the South
Eall or South Cape North 40^ Eall, diltant near three leagues.
The land between the South Well and the South Capes is

briiken

■'I'll

22.

''H r

li.

vhi^

i- '

.SuiiJ.:)'

26.

A V O Y A G E T O

lirokcu and hilly, the coail binding, with points fliooting
out from it; but avc were too far off, to be able to jii(li;c
M'hcther the bays formed by thefe points were flieltered
from the fea-winds. The bay which appeared to be the
largclt and decpell:, lies to the Welhvard of the peaked hill
above-mentioned. The variation of the compafs here, was

5^ 15' Eart.

At fix o'clock in the aftirnoon we founded, and found
fixty fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and
Ihclls. The St)iith Cape then bore North 75'' Welf, two or
three leaq;ues dillant ; Tafman's Head North Eall; and
Swilly Kock South by Weft J Weft. About a league to the
Ealhvard of Swilly, is another elevated rock, that is not
taken notice of by Captain Furneaux. 1 called it the Etldy-
Jionc^ from its very great relemblancc to that light-houie.
Nature leems to have left thele two rocks here, for the lame
purpofe that the Eddyftone light-houl'e was built by man,
^'iz. to give navigators notice of the dangers around them.
For they are the confpicuous lummits of a ledge of rocks
under water, on which the lea, in many places, breaks very
high. Their liuface is white with the dung of fea fowls ;
It) that they may be fecn at ibme diftance, even in the night.
On the North Eaft fide of Storm Bay, which lies between
the Sovith Cape and Tafman's Head, there are fome coves
or { reeks, tlrat feemed to be flieltered from the fea-winds ;
ami I am of opinion that, Mere this coaft examined, there
would be found fome good harbours.

Soon after we had light of land the Wefterly winds left
US :ind were fiuceeded l)y variable light air^ and alternate
calms, till the 26th at noon. At that time a breeze fprung
\ip and frefhcned at South 1 .ift, whidi \)\\X it in my power
to carry into execution the delign 1 had, upon due confi-
1 deration.

'^ f

' '?'!

:'1

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

deration, formed, of carrying the fliips into Adventure
Bay, where I might exped^ to get a fupply of wood and of
grals for the cattle ; of both which articles we fliould, as
I now found, have been in great want, if I had waited till
our arrival in New Zealand. We therefore ftood for the
bay, and anchored in it at four o'clock, in the afternoon,
in twelve fathoms water, over a bottom of land and ooze.
Penguin liland, which lies dofe to the Eail point of the
bay, bore North 84" Eaft; the Southernmoil point of
Maria's Illands bore North 76' i Eaft ; and Cape Frederic
Henry, or the North point of the bay, bore North 33" Ealt.
Our tliltance from the neareft Ihore was about three quar-
ters of a mile.

As foon as we had anchored, I ordered the boats to ])e
hoifted out. In one of them I went myfelf, to look for the
moft commodious place for furnifliing oinielves with the
neceffary fupplies ; .and Captain Clerke went in his boat
upon the fame fervice. Wood and water we fouiul in
plenty, and in fituations convenient enough, efpecially the
firft. But grafs, of which we ftood moft in need, was fcarcc,
and abb very coarfe. Neceflity, however, obliged us to
take fuch as we could get.

Next morning early, 1 fent Lieutenant King to the Eaft Monda
fide of the bay with t\\ o parties ; one to cut wcK)d, and the
other to cut grals, under the protedlion of the marines,
whom I judged it prudent to land as a guard. For although,
as yet, none t)f the natives had appeared, there coidd be no
doubt that fome were in our neighbourhood, as we had
feen columns of fmoke, from the time of our approaching
the coart ; and fome now was obferved, at no great diilance
up in the wootls. I alio fent the launch for water; and

;iiai\\ard

!777-
January.

if >

I,inu.irv.

Puefdav iS.

lis;

A VOYAGE TO

nfterward viiitetl all the parties myfelf. In the evening, we
drew the feinc at the head of the bay, and, at one haid,
taught a great (]iiantity of filh. We flioidd have got many
more, had not the net broken in drawing it afliore. Moll
of them were of that fort known to feamen l)y the name of
elephant filli. After this, every one repaired on board with
what wood and grafs we had cut, that we might be ready
to fail whenever the wind Ihoidd ferve.

This not hapj-)ening next morning, the people were fent
on Ihore again, on the fame duty as the day before. I alio
employed the carpenter, with part of his crew, to cut fome
Ipars for the ufe of the Ihip ; and tlifpatched Mr. Roberts,
one of the mates, in a i'mall l)oat to furvey the bay.

In the afternoon, we were agreeably furprifed, at the
place where we were cutting wood, with a vifit from
fome of the natives ; eight men and a boy. They ap-
proached us from the woods, without betraying any marks
of fear, or rather with the greatelt confidence imaginable ;
for none of them had any weapons, except one, who held
in his hand a Itick about two feet long, and pointed at
one end.

They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments ; un-
lefs we confider as fuch, and as a proof of their love of
finery, fome large pundlures or ridges railed on different
parts of their bodies, fome in itraight, and others in curved
lines.

They were of the common ftaturc, but rather flender.
Their fkin was black, and alio their hair, which was as
woolly as that of any native of Guinea ; but they were not
diltinguiflied by remarkably thick lips, nor flat nofes. On
the contrary, their features were tar from being difagree-

ablc.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

able. They had pretty good eyes ; and their teeth were
tolerably even, but very dirty. Moil of them had their
hair and beards fniearcd - irh a red ointment; and lome
had their faces alio painted with the iame compolition.

They received everv preicnt we made to them, without
the leail appearance of fatisfadtion. When Ibme bread was
given, as foon as they underilood that it was to be eaten,
they either returned it, or threw it away, without e\en
tailing it. They alio refuled Ibme elephant iifli, both raw
and drefl'ed, which we offered to them. But upon giving
Tome birds to them, they did not return thele, and eallly
made us comprehend that they were fond of fiich food. I
had brought two pigs aihorc, with a view to leave them in
the woods. The inilant thefe came within their reach, they
feized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and
were for carrying them off immediately ; with no other in-
tention, as we coidd perceive, but to kill them.

Being defirous of knowing the ufe of the Hick which one
of our vifiters carried in his hand, I made iigns to them to
fliew me ; and lb far fucceeded, that one of them let up a
[)iece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the dillance of
al)out twenty yards. But we had little reaibn to commend
his dexterity ; for, after repeated trials, he was Hill very
wide from the obje<5l. Omai, to fliew them how much iu-
perior our weapons were to theirs, then lired his mufquet
at it ; which alarmed them fo much, that notwithllanding
all we could do or lay, they ran inllantly into the woods.
One of them was lb frightened, that he let drop an axe and
two knives, that had been given to him. From us, how-
ever, they went to the ])lace where lome of the Dii'covery's
people were emplovcd in taking water into their boat. The
ollicer of that patty, not knowing that they liad paid us fo
Vol-. I. t) tViciitlh

V77-
January.

v»

A VOYAGE TO

lanuary.

Wcdncf. 25.

tVicntUy a vilit, nor wh:it their intent might be, firecl a muf-
(jiict in the air, nliich Tent them off with the grcatcll pre-
cipitation.

Thus ended our fivi\. interview with the natives. Imme-
diately after their final retreat, judging that their fears
would i)revent their remaining near enough to obferve what
was palling, 1 ordered the two pigs, being a boar and fow,
to be carried about a mile withm the wotxis, at the head of
the bay. 1 law them left there, by the fide of a frefli-watcr
br(X)k. A young bull and a cow, and fome Ihecp and goats,
were alio, at firit, intended to have been left by me, as an
additional prelbnt to Van Diemen's I .and. But I foon laitl
alide all thought of this, from a perfualion that the natives,
incapable of entering into my views of improving their
country, would dcftroy them. If ever they ihould meet
with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. But
as that race of animals loon becomes wiki, and is fond of
the thickell cover of the woods, there is great probability
of their being preferved. An open j)lace muft have been
chofen for the accommodation of the other cattle ; and in
fucli a fituation, they could not pollibly have remained
concealed many days.

The morning of the 2gth was iilhcred in with a dead
calm, which continued all day, and elfectually prevented
our failing. 1 therefore lent a party over to the Eait ix)int
of the bay to cut grafs; having been informetl that fome of
a fuperior <iuality grew there. Another party, to cut wood,
Avas ordered to go to the ufual place, and I accompanied them
myfelf. We had obferved feveral of the native's, this morn-
ing, fauntcring along the Ihore, \\hich allured us, that
though their conlttrnation had made them leave us lb
abruptly the day berbre, they were tonvimcd that we in-
tended

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

tended them no mifchief, and were defirous of renewinc^
the intcrcourfe. It was natural that I Ihould wifli to be
prelbnt on the occafion.

Wc had not been lont^ landed, belore about twenty of
them, men and boys, joined us, without exprelhng the
lealt fign of fear or dillrurt. There was one of this com-
pany confpicuoully deformed ; and who was not more dil-
tinguifhable by the hump up)n his back, than by the drol-
lery of his geftures, and the fceming humour of his
ipeeches ; which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we
fuppofcd, for our entertainment. But, unfortunately, we
could not undcrlfand him ; the language fpoken here being
wholly unintelligible to us. It appeared to me, to be dif-
ferent from that fiwken by the inhabitants of the more
northern parts of this country, whom I met with in my
firft voyage ; which is not extraordinary, fincc thole we
now faw, and thofc we then vifitcd, differ in many other
refpedts ■'••^ Nor did they feem to be fvich milerable

1777-
January.

♦ The moft ftriking difference feems to be with regard to the texture of the hair.
The natives whom Captain Cooic met with at Endeavour River in 1769, are faid, by
him, to have niiturally htig and bhuk hair, though it be universally cropped Psart. In general
it isjlraity hut fometima it has a jlight curl. IFe faw none that was not matted and filthy.
Their beards were of the fame colour with the hair, and bu/hy and thick. Sec Hawkefworth's
Collcftion, Vol. iii. chap. 8. p. 632.

It may be nccefTary to mention here, on the authority of Captain King, that Captain
Cook was very unwilUng to allow that the hair of the natives now met with in Adventure
Bay was woolly, fancying that his people, who firft obfcrved this, had been deceived, from
its being clotted with ji;rcafe and red ochre. But Captain King prevailed upon him afti-r-
ward, to examine carefully the hair of the boys, which was generallv, as wtll as that of
the women, free from this dirt; and then he owned himfelf fatisfied that it was natniiilly
woolly. Perhaps wc may fuppofe it pofliblc, that he himfelf had been deceived w hen ho
was in I'.ndeavour River, from this very circamfl.incc j as he exprcf^ly ii\>, th.it r/ ly.^e
none that uas not mailed and filthy.

( '•

■:\ ■

w ret the s

100

januarv.

A VOYAGE TO

nrctchcs as tlic natives whom Dampier mentions to have
Icen on its wclkrn coall '•.

Sonic of our i>rcl"cnt group wore, looie, round tlieir
netks, three or tour tbl<ls of fmall lonl, made of the fm* of
fomc animal ; ami others of them had a narrow Ihp of the
kafn^ooroo Ikin tied roimd their ankles. I ,i^ave to each of
them a Itrini; of heads, and a medal; which 1 thoiii^ht they
received with Ibme latisfadion. 'I'hey I'eemed to let no
value on iron, or on iron tools. They were even ignorant
of the ule of lilh-hooks, if we might Judge tri)m their
manner of looking at forae of ours which we Ihcwetl to
them.

We cannot, however, fujii^ofe it to he poflihle that a peo-
ple \N ho inhal)it a fea-coalt, and who i'eem to derive no part
of their fulkMiance from the i)rodui!ftions of the ground,
ihould not he accprainted with fome mode of catching lilh,
though we (lid not happen to lee any y)( them thus employ-
ed ; nor ohlLrvc any canoe or veHel, in which they covdd go
upon the water. Though they ahlblutely rejedted the fort
of filli that we oH'ered to them, it was evident that Ihell-

* And )ct Dampicr's New Holl.uulcrs, on the Weftern coaft, bear a ftriking rcfcm-
blancc to Captain C\iok.\ at \'aii Dieiueii's Land, iiv many remarkable inilanccs ;

I ft, As to their becoming I'ainiiiar with the llrani^eis.

2illy, As to their ix-rfoiis ; being ft raight- bodied, and thin ; their ftcui blaek ; and blaek,
(hort, curled hair, hke the Negroes ot' Ciuinea ; witli wide mouths.

3dly, As to their wretched condition ; ha\ ing no houles, no g.irment, no canoes, no
inftruinent to catch large lifti ; teeJiiig on bmikd miiUler-, cockles, and |x;riwinklcs ;
h.ivinrr no tiiiits ot" the earth ; their weapons a ftraight pcile, ftiar|)ened and hardened at
the cud, (\\-. iVc.

! he liiiet peculiarities of Dampicr's ;/;.]//;<//'/< icn/i/.r; are, I ft. Their eve-lids being
always half doled, to keep the flies out, which were exceflivcK troubielonie there ; and,
2dly, Their wanting the two fore-teeth of the upjxr jaw, ami their having no beards.
See Ditinpift's /'nrii^ts, Vo\. i. p. 464, 5^c. Thcie leems to he no realon for fuppofing
that Dampier was n;iftakcii in the ajove account of what he law.

full,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

loi

fifli, at \eaft, made a part of their food, from ti. many
heaps of mufde-fliclls we iliw in different parts near the
Ihore, and about lome delbrted hal)itations near the head of
the b;iy. Thefe were little Iheds or hovels built of llicks,
and covered with bark. We could alfo perceive evident
figns of their fometimes taking up their abode in the trunks
of large trees, which had been hollowed out by fire, moll
probably for this very puri^ole. In or near all thefe habi-
tations, and wherever there was a heap of Ihells, there re-
mained the marks of fire ; an indubitable proof that they
do not eat their food raw.

After Ihiying about an hour with the wooding party and
the natives, as I could now be pretty confident that the lat-
ter were not likely to give the former any diihirbance, I left
them, and went over to the grafs-cutters on the Eall point
of the bay, and found that they had met with a fine patch.
Having iecn the boats loaded, ! left that party, and returned
on board to dinner ; where, fome time after, Lieutenant
King arrived.

From him 1 learnt, that I had but jurt left the fliorc, when
feveral women and children made their ai)pearance, and
were introduced to him by iome of the men who attended
them. I le gave prefents to all of them, of fuc h trifles as he
had about him. Theib females wore a katTi^ooyoo ikin (in
the fame fliapc as it ca'me from the animal) tied over the
Ihoulders, and round the waiil. But its only ufc iccmed to
be, to fui)port their children \\hen carried on their backs;
for it did not cover thofe parts which moll nations conceal;
being, in all other rcfpe«ils, as naked as the men, and as
black, and their bodies marked with fears in the lame man-
ner. But in this they iliffered from the men, that though
their hah- was of the fame colour and textiu'e, fome of them

had

1777-
January.

If J

',\

xo:

Ijiiuju')'.

A VOYAGE TO

had their heads completely fliorn or Ihaved ; in others this
ojieration had been performed only on one lide, w hile the
relt of them had all the upper part of the head fliorn clofe,
leaving a circle of hair ;l11 round, fomewhat hke thctonfure
of the Romifli EcclelialHcs •'. Many of the children had fine
features, and were thoui^ht pretty ; hut of the peilons of
the xvomcn, cfpecially thole advanced in yeans, a lei's fa-
vourable rejHirt was made. However, fome of the Centle-
mcn belonging to the Dillovery, 1 was told, i)aid their ad-
drelles, and made libend offers of prcfents, which were rc-
jecled with great difdain ; whether from a fenle of virtue,
or the fear of difplealing their men, I lliall not pretend to
determine. That this gallantry was not very agreeable to
the latter, is certain : for an elderly man, as foon as he oh-
ferved it, ordered all the women and children to retire,
which they obeyed, though lonie of them Ihewed a Uttle
reludtance.

This condutfl of Europeans amongfl Savages, to their wo-
men, is highly blamcable; as it creates a Jealoidy in their
men, that may I e attended with conle(iuences fitil to the
fuccefs of the con.mon entcrprize, and to the WiUle body
of adventurers, without advancing the private purpofe of

i. h:

* Captain Ccx)k's account ot the natives of Van Diemen's Land, in this Chapter, no
doubt proves that they differ, in many njpeih, as he fays, from tlic inhabitants of the more
northerly parts of the taft coaft of New Holland, whom he met with in his firft voyage.
It feeins very rem.iikablc, however, that the only woman any of his people came clofe to,
in Botany Hay, fhould have hi-r hijr (nppid jhrt ; while the man who was with her, is
faid to have had the hair ef his hfnd hi/hy, tindhis btardhng ami rough, f lawkefworth's Ctil-
leclion. Vol. iii. p. 502. Could the lutivcs of \'an Jiiemai's Land be more accurately
defcribcd, tlian by faying that the hair of the men's heads is Injly., and their beards lon^ and
rough, and that the iLomens hair is crcpped jh:rt '<' So far Noith, therefore, as Botany Bay,
the natives of the Eaft coaft of New Holland fcem to rcfembic thofc of Van Dien»cn's
Land, in this circuniftancc.

3 the

i" ' f:

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

the indivitluiil, or cnabline; him to gain the ()bjcvi\ of his
w illics. 1 believe it has been generally found anionglt un-
civilized people, that where the women are eafy of atcefs,
the men are the (irlt to oft'er them to llrangers ; and that,
where this is not the caib, neither the allurement of pre-
fents, nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have
the defired effecSl. This obfervation, 1 am fure, will hold
good, througlu)ut all the parts of the South Sea w here I have
been. Why then fliould men ad fo abfurd a part, as to rilk
their own fafety, and that of all their companions, in pur-
fuit of a gratirtcation which they have no probability of
obtaining?

In the afterncK)n I went again to the grafs-cutters, to for-
ward their work. I found them then upon Penguin lUand,
where they had met with a plentiful crop of excellent grafs.
We lal)oured hard till lun-fet, and then repaired on board,
Ihtisfied with the quantity we had colleded, and w hich I
judged fufficient to lalt till our arrival in New Zealand.

During our whole Ihiy, we had either calms or light airs
from the Eaftward. Little or no time, therefore, was lolt
by my putting in at this place. For if I had kept the lea,
we fliould not have been twenty leagues advanced faither
on our voyage. And, fliort as our continuance was here,
it has enabled me to add fomevvhat to the imperfect ac-
quaintance that hath hitherto been accjuired, with this part
of the globe.

Van Diemen's Land has been twice vifited before. It was
fo named by Tafman, who dilcovered it in November 1642.
I'rom that time it had efcajied all farther notice by Euro-
pean navigators, till Captain Furncaux touched at it in
March 1773. 1 hardly need fay, that it i;. the Southern
lioint of New Holland, which, if it doth not deferw the

nunie

177-

Janu«r;'

I •

{

104

I"*

Unuarv.

i»

A V o ^ A c. i: T o

iianK' of a loiitiuciit, is by t'.ir the l.iru,cll ill.ind m the
\\oiKl.

The land is, for the molt part, of a ^ood height, divci lilicd
\\ith hills and valleys, and every where of a ^reeiiilh hue.
It is well wooded ; ami, if one may judife from aj)i)earancc8,
and from what we met with in Adventvne Hay, is not ill
iiipplied with water. We found plenty of it in three or
tovir places in this hay. The hell, or what is moll conve-
nient foi Ihips that tovuh here, is a rivulet, which is one of
leveral that fall into a iH)nd, that lies behind the beach at
the head of the bay. It there mixes with the fea-water; lb
that it mull be taken up above this [H)nd, which may be
done without any great trouble. Fire-wood is to begot,
with great eale, in leveral places.

The only w ind to w hii h this bay is cx|X)fed, is the North
Eall. Hut as this wind blow> from MariaN Illands, it can
Ining no very great lea along with it; and therefore, upon
the whole, this may be accounted a very fafe road. The
lM)ttom is clean, good holding ground; and the depth ot
water from twelve, to live and four fathoms. Hut the
annexed Chart will convey a better idea of every thing
necelfary to be known about Adventure Hay, than any dc-
icription.

Captain Furneaxix's Iketch of Van Diemen's Land, pid)-
liflied with the Narrative of my lalt \ Dyage ■, appears to me
to be w ithout any material error, except w ith regard to Ma-
ria's Ulands, which have a different lituation from what is
there reprelcnted. What my idea of them is, will be lien
in the fketch of that coalt here inferted ; und 1 inlert it, not
as the reiidt of a more faithful, but merely of a l'econ<l

* \'ol. i. Y- 115.

cxaminatioii-

■^'].

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

examination. The longitude was determined by a great
number of lunar oblervations, which we had before we
m.ide the land, while we were in light of it, and after wc
had left it; and reduced to Adventure Hay, and the fevc-
ral priiu ipal points, by the time-keeper. The following
Tabic will ex.hibit both the longitude and latitude at one
view :

Latituile South.

Longitude Kaft.

Adventure Bay,

43°

21'

20"

147" 29

Tafman's I lead.

- 43

147 28

South ('ai)e,

4^-

-—146 56

South Welt Cai)e, -

- 43

?>7

■ J f% mm ^»

140 7

Swilly llle, -

- 43

147 6

10:

1777-
Jauuar).

Adventure Bav, J "^'^""^^^'"'^ "^' ^^^^^ ^^^"M^^l"^ 5^ ^5' Eaft.

■ I Dip ot the South End ot the Needle 70" 15; .

We had high-water on the 29th, being two days before
the lall cpiarter of the moon, at nine in the morning. The
perpendic ular rife then w as eighteen inches ; and there
was no appearance of its having ever exceeded two feet and
a half. Thele are all the memorials uleful to navigation,
which my lliort Hay has enabled me to i)rei"erve, with re-
fpekll to Vai\ Diemen's Land.

Mr. Anderlon, my Surg'^on, with his ufual diligence,
fpent the few days we remained in Adventure Bay, in exa-
mining the country. His accoiuit of its natiual prodvu-
tions with which he favoured me, will more than coni-
penlate for my lileiu e about them : fonie of his remarks on
the inhabitants w ill liii)ply what 1 may have omitted or rc-
preleiued imperfectly ; and his i"iK'cimen of their language,
lioucvcr Ihort, will be thought worth attending to, by rholc
who with to collect materials for tracing the origin of na-
Voi.. I. 1* tions.

-.1

10()

A V O Y A C^, E r O

f.imi;irv.

:!«■:

'%i

lions. I fliall onlv prcmilc, that the tall lhMi;^lu tbiclt
trees, whuh Mr. Aiiderlon dcicrihes in the tbilowinu ac>
count, arc ot" a ditterent fort from thole which are tbiuul in
the more XoriJicrn parts of tliis coall. The wood is very
long and clofe-uirained ; extremely tou_i>h ; fit for fpars,
oars, and many other iiies ; and woidd, on oicalu)n, make
good malls (perhaps none better), if a method could be
fonnd to lighten it.

" At the bottom of Adventnre Bay is a beautiful fandy
beach, which feems to be wholly formed by the particles
walbed by the fea from a very iine white iand-llone, that
in many places bounds the Ihore, and of which Fluted
Cape, in the neighboiniicM)d, from its appearance, ll'ems
to be ct)mpofed. This beach is about two miles long, and
is excellently adapted for hauling a feinc, which both Ibips
did repeatedly with fuccefs. Behind this, is a plain or tiat,
with a fait, or rather brackilli lake (rimning in length
parallel with the beach), out of which we caught, with
angling rods, many whitilli bream, and fome fmall trout.
The other parts of tlic country adjoining the bay are (piite
hilly; and hot), thole and the Hat are an entire forell of
very tall trees, rendered almoll impallable by Ihrubs,
brakes of fern, and fallen tree^; except on the fides of
fome of the hill^, where the trees are but thin, and a coarfe
grals is the only interruption.

To the Northward of the bay there i'- low land, liretc hing
farther than the eye can reach, which is onlv covered with
wood in certain Ipots; but we had no opportunity to exa-
mine in what reipects it ditliied troni the hilh countrv.
The Ibil on the flat land is either landy, or conl'ills of a
yellowiih moidd, and, in loine |>lace^, of a lecldith clay.
The fame is found on the lower [)art of the hilK ; but

farther

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

f;irthcr u]"), cipcciiilly where there arc few trees, it is of a
grey tou^h calt, to appearance very poor.

hi the valleys hetween the hills, the water drains down
from their lides ; and at lail, in fome places, forms iinall
brooks ; liich indeed as m ere fufilcient to i'lipply iis witl)
water, hut by no means of that fize we might expecl in ib
extenlive a country, eipecially as it is both hilly and well
wooded. Upon the whole, it has many marks of being
naturally a very dry country ; and perhaps might (inde-
pendent of its wood) be com[)ared to Africa, about the Cape
of CJood IIo]ie, though that lie^ ten degrees farther North-
ward, rather than to New Zealand, on its other fide, in the
fame latitude, where we find every valley, however fmall,
fnrnilhed with a confiderable Itream of water. The heat
too ai)ix;ars to be great, as the thermometer Itood at 64, 70,
and once at 74. And it was remarked, that birds were
leldom killed an hour or two, before they were almoft co-
vered with iiiiall maggots, which I would rather attribute
merely to the heat ; as we had not any reaibn to luppolb
there is a jkc xdiar diliK)lition in the climate to render fub-
fiances loon putrid.

No mineral bodies, nor indeed ftones of any other fort, but
the white fand one already mentioned, were obfervcd.

Amongll the vegetable produdf ions, there is not one, that
we could iind, which afforded the fmallelt fublirtence for
man.

The foreft trees are all of one fort, growing to a great
height, and in general cjuite Itraight, branching but little,
till toward the top. The bark is white, which makes thciu
appear, at a diltance, as if they had been peeled; it is alio
thick; and within it are lometimes colle»f\ed, pieces of a

I' 1 redd lib

107

•777-
January.

.!.!>

io8

A V O Y .\ C, E r o

'■'■"'•
l.uiuarv.

J^f

'/■

It''* .(■
jlC'l

rcddifh tranfparent gum or rclin, which has an aftringcnt
talle. Tlic leaves of this tree arc long, narrow, and pointed;
and it bears clufters of I'mall white flowers, whofe cups
were, at this time, plentifully Icattcred about the ground,
with anotlier fort reiemblinc; them fomewhat in lliape, but
much larger; which makes it probable that there are two
ipecies of this tree. The bark of the Imaller branches,
fruit, and leaves, have an agreeable pungent tafte, and
aromatic fmell, not unlike peppermint ; and in its nature,
it has fome aflinity to the nivrtus of botanills.

The moll common tree, next to tliis, is a fmall one about
ten feet high, branching pretty much, with narrow leaves,
and a large, yellow, cylindrical flower, confifting only of a
vait number of lilamcnts ; which, being flied, leave a fruit
like a pine-top. Both the above-mentioned trees are- un-
known in Europe.

The underwood confifts chiefly of aflirub fomewhat re-
fembling a myrtle, and which leems to be the leplojpeymum
fcopariian^ mentioned in Dr. Foriter's Char. Gen. Plant. ;
and, in fome places, of another, rather Imaller, which is a
Yiiiw /pedes of the melateuca of Linnx'us.

Of other plants, which are by no means numerous, there
is a /pedes of ^ladiolus^ rufli, bell-fiower, famphire, a fmall
fort of wood-forrcl, milk-wort, cudweed, and Job's tears ;
with a few others, peculiar to the ]>lace. There are feveral
kinds of fern, as polypody, fpiecnwort, female fern, and fome
nioiTes ; but \\\c /pedes arc cither ( ommon, or at lealt found
in fome other countries, efpecially New Zealand.

The only animal of tlic <]uadrupcd kind we got, was a
fort of opoJJ'ufH., aXiowx twice the lize of a large rat; and is»
nioft probably, the n)ale ot that fpicics found at Endea-

VOVU'

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

109

vour River, as mentioned in Hawkefworth's Colledion of
Voyages '■. It is of a dufky colour above, tinged with a
brown or rufty caft, and whitilli below. About a third of
the tail, towards its tip, is white, and bare underneath ; by
which it probably hangs on the branches of trees, as it
climbs thef>i, and lives on berries. Mr. Webber's drawing
will give a better idea of it than any defcription. The kari'
^ooroOf another animal found farther Northward in New
Holland, as defcribcd in the fame Voyage +, without ail
doubt alfo inhabits here, as the natives we met with had
fomc pieces of their Ikins ; and we feveral times faw ani-
mals, though indillindlly, nm from tl c thickets when we
walked in the woods, which, from the lize, could be no
other. It fliould feem alfo, that they are in confiderable
numbers, from the dung we faw almoft every where, and
from the narrow tracks or paths they have made amongft
the fhrubbery.

There are feveral forts of birds, but all fo fcarce and fhy,
that they are evidently harraflcd by the natives, who, per-
haps, draw much of their fubfillence from them. In the
woods, the principal forts are large brown hawks or eagles ;
crows, nearly the fame as ours in England ; yellowifli pa-
rocpiets ; and large pigeons. There are alfo three or four
fmall birds, one of which is of the thrufli kind ; and ano-
ther fmall one, with a pretty long tail, has part of the head
and neck of a moft beautifid azure colour ; from whence we
named it motacilla cyanea. On the fliore were feveral
common and lea gulls ; a few black oyfter catchers, or fca-
pies ; and a pretty plover of a itone colour, with a black
hood. About the pond or lake behind the beach, a few

» Vol. iji. p. 586.

t Ibid. p. 577,

1777.
January.

i r

t..

i 'v

wild

::|

■/"

;i-'J,

I 10

lanuan'.

\ \ () Y A Ci K T O

M ild (kicks were iccii ; and lume Ihngs nfcd to perch upon
tlie high leaflcfs trees near the fliore.

Some prettv large blackilli inakes were fecii in the
woods; and we killed a large, hitherto unknown, lizard,
hfrecn inches long and fix nnuid, clegantlv clouded with
!)laik and yellow ; heluk''^ a Imall lort, of a brown gilded
colcnu- al)<)ve, and rully below .

The fea affords a much greater plenty, and at leall: as
great a variety as tlie land. Of theic the elephant iilh, or
/>(^/>^r///o, mentioned in Irezier's \'ovage ••^', arc the moil
numerous : and though inferior to many other lilh, were
verv p:'.!atable food. Several large rays, ninies, and iinall
leather-jacketN were caught; with iome fmall white bream,
which were iirmer arid !>etter than thofe catight in the
lake. We likewile got a few Ibles and flounders ; two
fort> of gin-nards, one of theni a ncw/'/^icics; fome fmall
I'potted mullet; and, very ■.'ne^.j)ecledlv, the fmall filh
with a (liver ])and on it> fide, called atberina hcpjctus by
Haircl<iui1l I.

but tliat next in numl)cr, and fuperior in goodnefs, to the
elephant filh, Avas a Ibrt none of us recolled:cd to have 'i^^nw
liefore. It partakes of the nature both of a round and of a
Hat fifli, having the eyes jilaced very near each other ; the
fore-part of the body much flattened or deprelfed, and tlic
rell rounded. It is of a brownini fandv colour, w ith rufty
fpots on the upjur part, and whitilh below, from the
cpiantity of llime it was alwavs covered with, it feems to
live after the manner of Hat fifli, at the luntom.

U]ion the rocks are plentv of muicles, and fome other
fmall Ihell-iilh. There are alfo great nun^ibers of fea-lfars ;

Tom. ii. p. 211. i2mo. 1'I.mchc XV'II.
J

■t ha- P,i!,r!li}:iim.

lome

5 I

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fomc fmall limpets ; and large quantities of fponge ; one
Ibrt of wliich, that is thrown ou lliore by the fea, but not
very common, has a moll delicate texture ; and another, is
the fjion'j^ia dicbotonia.

Many pretty Medufa's beads were found upon the beach;
and the linking laplyjia or fea-hare, which, as mentioned
by Ibme autliors, has the projierty of taking off the hair by
the acrimony of its juice ; but this fort was deficient in this
refpedt.

hiieds, though not numerous, are here in confiderable
variety. Amongil them are grafsho[)pers, butterflies, and
feveral i'orts of imall moths, iinely variegated. There are
two forts of tlragon-flies, gad-flies, camel-Hies ; feveral forts
of fpiders ; and fome Icorpions ; but the lail are rather rare.
The molt troublcfome, though not very numerous tribe of
infeiils, are the mulijuitoes ; and a large L>lack ant, the
pain of whole bite is almolt intolerable, dining the fliort
time it lalts. The mulquitoes, alfo, make up the defici-
ency of then" number, by the feverity of their venomous
probofcis.

The inhabitants w bom we met with here, had little of
that licrcc or wild appearance common to people in their
fituation ; but, on the contrary, feemed mild and cheerful,
without referve or jealouly of Grangers. This, however,
may arifc from their having little to Icil'e or care for.

With rcfpevil to perlbnal acfivity or genius, we can fay
but httle of either. They do not feem to ix)irefs the liril in
any remarkable degree; and as for the lalt, they have, to
appearance, lefs than even the half-animated iniiabitants
of 'I'erra del Fuego, who have not invention fuiiicient to
make clothing for defending themfelves from the rigor of

their

III

Jaiiuajy.

\ •

i» 5'

■!?

112

lanii.iry.

A V C) Y A G E TO

their climate, though furnilhed with the materials. The
ihiall Itick, rudely j^ointed, which one of them carried in
his hand, was the only thing we law that re<iuired any n\e-
chanical exertion, if wc except the fixing on the feet of
fome of them pieces of kan^^ooroo Ikin, tied with thongs ;
though it could not he learnt whether thelc weic in ufc as
flioes, or only to defend fome fore. It mull he owned, how-
ever, they are mailers of fome contrivance in the manner
of cutting their arms and hodies in lines of different lengths
and dirciiUons, which are railed confidcnhly ahovc the fur-
face of the Ikin, fo that it is dilFicult to guefs the method
they ufe in executiiig this emhroidery of their perfons.
Their not exprcffing that furi)rize w hich one might have
cxj^ectcd from their feeing men fo much unlike themfelves,
and things, to which, we were well aifurcd, they had heen
hitherto utter Grangers ; their indifferenc e for our prelents ;
and their general inattention ; were I'ullicient proofs of their
not ]>()ireliing any acutencfs of underlhuuling.

Their colour is a dull hlack, and not (piite fo deep a.^
that of the African Negroes. It Ihould fcem alfo, that they
fometimes heightened tlieir hlack colour, hy fmutting theii-
hc^dies ; as a mark was left hehind on any clean fuhllance,
fuch as white paper, when they handled it. Their hair,
however, is perfectly woollv, and it is clotted or divided
into fmall parcels, like that of the Hottentots, \\ itli the ui'c
of fome fort of grcafe, mixetl with a red paint or ochro,
which they fmear in great al)undancc over their heads.
This practice, as fome might imagine, has not the cffedl of
changing their hair into the frizzling texture we ohfervcd ;
for, on examining tlie head of a hov, which appeared never
to have heen fmeared, 1 found the hair to be of the fame

kind.

■ ^, 1

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

kiml. Their noll's, thc)ii<j,li not ll.it, arc broad and t'uli.
'I'he lower i)art of the face projed:s a good deal, as is the
cafe of moll Imlians I have iixn ; fo that a line let fall from
the forehead, would cut oil' a nuich larger portion than it
would in Eurojx,>ans. Their eyes are of a midtUing fize,
with the white lefs clear than in ns ; and though not re-
markably cjuick or piercing, iuch as give a frank cheerful
call to the whole countenance. Their teeth are broad, but
not ecpial, no^' well fet ; and, either from natvue or from
dirt, not of lb true a white as is ufual among people of a
black colom". Their mouths are rather wide ; but this ap-
pearance leems heightened by wearing their beards long,
and clotted with paint, in the fame manner as the hair on
their heads. In other relpedl:s, they are well-proportioned;
though the belly leems rather projeiling. This may be
owing to the want of compreflion there, \\ hich few nations
do not ufe, more or lefs. The pollure of which they feem
fondell, is to ftand with one lide forward, or the upper part
of the body gently reclined, and one hand grafping (acrofs
the back) the oppofite arm, which hangs down by the pro-
je(!:ling fide.

What the ancient Poets tell us of Faufis and Safyrs living
in hollow trees, is here realized. Some wretched conilruc-
tions of Hicks, covered w ith bark, which do not even defcrvc
the name of huts, were indeed found near the fliore in the
bay ; but thefe feemed only to have been erecled for tem-
porary pvn'i)oles ; and many of their largeil trees were con-
verted into more comfortable habitations. Thefe had theii'
trunks hollowed out by fire, to the height of iix or fevcn
feet ; and that they take up their abode in them I'ometimcs,
was eviilent from the hearths, made of clay, to c ontain the
Vol. I. Q I'nv

•777-
January.

' :; " r

i .i'>"

114

l.iiuiary.

^i-

A VOYAGE TO

fire in the middle, Icavini; room for four or five ix^rfons to
lit round it \ At the fame time, tliefe plates of Iheltcr arc
diuahk' ; for they take care to leave one lide of the tree
ft)vuid, which is fuiruient to keep it growing as luxuriantly
as thofe which remain untouched.

The inhabitants of this place are, doid)tlcfs, from the
fam<' Itock with thofe of the Northern parts of New Hol-
land. Though i'omc of the circumltances mentioned by
Dampier, relative to thofe he met w ith on the Weltern coall
of this country. Inch as their defective light, and want of
fore teeth, are not found here; and though Hawkel worth's
account of thole met with by Captain Cook on the Ealt lide,
fhews alio that they ditl^er in many relpedts ; yet (till, upon
the whole, 1 am jierfuaded that dillance of place, entire re-
paration, diverlity of climate, and length of time, all concur-
ring to operate, will account for greater dilVerenics, both
as to their perri)ns and as to their cuihims, tlian really cxift
hetween oui" \'an Dienien's Land natives, and thofe defcribcd
by Dampier, and in C'aptain Cook's lirll voyage. This is
certain, that the ligurc of one of thofe i'ccn in Endeavour
River, and reprefenteil in Sidney I'arkinlbn's Journal of that
voyage, very much relembles our vifiters in Adventure Hay.
That there is not the like refemblance in their language, is
a circumltanie that need not create any ditiicultv. For
though the agreement of the languages of people living
dillant from each other, may be alFumed as a ihong argu-
ment for their having fprung from one common lource ;

* Tafman, when in the buy of Frederick Hcnrv, adjoiiiiiij^ to Ail\'cnture Hav, found
two trci one of which was two fathoms, a, id the other two fuhoms and a half in girth,
and fixty <>r fixty-five feet high, from the root to the branches. Sec his yoyagc, in Hur-
rU's Q,t!i\'lioiii Gimpit/r! lijition.) Vol. i. p. 326.

3 difagreemcnt

iifc

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

(lilagrecmcnt of language is l)y no means a proof of the
contrary •''.

However, we miilv nave a far more intimate acciiiaintantc
with the hxnguages ipokcn here and in the more Northern
parts ot New lloUand, hefore we can be warranted to pro-
noiuice that they are t(nally (iitferent. Nay, we have good
grounds for the oppoiite opinion ; for we h)und that the
aniniid called kaii'^ooroo at Endeavour river, was known un-
<ler the fame name here; and I need not ohferve, that it is
fiarcely pollihle to iuppole that this was not traniinitted
from one another, i)ut accidentally adopted by tw o nations,
dirtering in language and extrad\ion. Belides, as it feems
very improbable that the Van Diemen's l^and inhabitants
fliould have ever lolt the ide of canoes or faiUng veflfels, if
they had been originally conveyed thither by fea, we mnit
necellarily admit that they, as well as the kaiv^ooroo itfelf,
have been llragglers by land from the more Northern parts
of the country. And if there be any force in this obftrva-
tion, while it traces the origin of the people, it will, at the

* The in^jcnioiis Author of Rdhocha fur Is /hncviduiu^ illullratcs tht- grouiiiJj of this
allertiori in the following f.itistaclory manner: " Ccft quclqiiu chi/il' de (lirprennnt, que
" 1.1 foulc dcs idiomcs, tous varies cntr'cux, que parlent Ics naturcls de rAmcriqiic Scp-
" tentrionalc. Qi^i'on rcduifc ccs idiomes a dcs racincs, qu'on Ics finiplifie, qu'on en
" fepare Ics dialeClcs et les jargons derives, il en rcfultc toujours cinq ou fix langues-meres,
" refpetSlivement incompreheniibles. On a oblerve la meme fuigularite dans la Siberic et
'■• la Tartarie, ou le nombrc des idiomes, et des dialci^cs, ett egalemcnt multiplie ; ct ricn
" i\'tft plusconimun, que d'y voir deux hordes voifines qui nc fc comprennent point. On
" rctrouve cettc menie nuiltiplicite dc jargors dans toutes les Provinces dc I'Anierique
" Meridionale." [He might alfo have included Africa.] " II y a beaucoup d'apparencc
" que lit vie /(luvagi", tn Jjfperjiint i'j himnui pur pdhrs troupi'i ij:hrs Jims firs hois cpiiit^ ocdi-
" Jmti' \ucfJJWirnntnt cctu griindf dvverfitt da iangua^ dont Ic nombre diininue ii tnefure que
" la fociete, en rafTemhlant Ics barbarcs vagabonds, en forme un corps de nation. Alors
" I'idiome le plus riche, ou Ic moins pauvrc en mot-, dcvicnt (lon\in.uit, ct ablorbc Ic-
" autrcs." Tom. i. p. 159, 160.

Q 2 fame

IIS

«777-
January.

i '

ii6

J.inu.irv.

A V O Y A O E TO

lame time, fcrvc to fix another point, if Captain Cook and
Captain Furncaiix have not already decided it, that New
Holland is no where totally divided hy the fea into iilands,
as fome have imagined '•*.

As the New Hollanders Teem all to be of the fame extrac-
tion, li) neither do I think there is any tiling peculiar in
them. On the contrary, they much relemble many of the
inhabitants whom I have I'een at the iilands Tanna and
MallicoUa. Nay, there is even Ibme foundation for hazard-
ing a fujjpofition, that they may have originally tome from
the fame place with all the inhabitants of the South Sea.
For,ofonly abcnit ten words which we could get from them,
that which expreHes co/dj differs little from that of New
Zealand and Otaheite ; the lirtl being Mullcireedc, the fecond
Makkareede^ and the third Mai cede. The reil of our very
fcanty Van Diemen's Land Vocabulary is as follows :

Quadne, J zvomatt.

Everai, The eye.

Muidje, The nofe.

Kamy, '■the tecfb, mouth, or tongue.

Laerenne, AJviall bird, a native of the woods here.

Koygec, The ear.

Noonga, FJevated fears on the body.

Tcegera, To eat.

Togarago, I mufi be gone, ov, I zvill go.

Tlieir pronunciation is not difagreeable, but rather quick ;
though not more lb than is that of other nations of the
South Sea ; and, if we may depend upon the affinity of lan-

♦ Dampicr fccms to be of this opinion. Vol. iii. p. 104. 125.

guages

"W': <l

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

giiages as a clue to guide us in tliiVovcrinvv the orii^iii of
nations, I have no doubt but we (hall find, on a diligent
in(iuiry, and when opportunities offer to collc»fl accurately
a fuffii ient number of thele words, and to compare them,
that all the people from New Holland, Ealhvard to Eatter
lUand, have been derived from the lUme common root '*."

117

1777-
January.

\mr^

r^'^iX

rT^

..i< .- 1

Jp!!

:• ^'i '

«"""*

, , ••*• <■ .

Sj .v

'ph

m/j^

N"*- 41

^. J

1 4^^^L

« u>i

V '^V

'•> ,*tM

ft. ^B'

'*' »'jl

V' '"^Mt

*" *jH

l^:^k

'"''^K

""i tI

K!:

"^J wi

):'• I'l

••■ ' ,k

/'*■

" i^ r»

/ • "■

... *

* VV'c find Mr. Andcrfon's notions or. this fubjccl conformable to thofc of Mr.
Marfden, who has remarked, " that one general language prevailed (however mutilated
" and changed in the coiirfc of time) throughout all this [virtion of the world, from
" Madagaftar to the molt dilhint dil'tov cries Kail ward 1 of which the Malay is a di.ilctit,
'• much corrupted or refined by a mixture of other tongues. This very extcnlivc funi-
" larity of language indicates a common orii;inof the inh.iliitants ; hut the circumftances
«« .niid progrcfs of their reparation are wrapjK-d in tiie darkell veil of oblcurity." Ilijhrf
if Sumatrn^ p. 35,

See alio his very curious paper, read before the Society of Antiquaries, and publifhcJ
in their Jiihieologlu, Vol. vi. p. 1 55 ; where hi> fentiineiits on this I'ubjecl are e;<|)ijined
more at large, and illuUratcd by two Tables of toriefponding XS'yrds.

r^ (^ -

C II A P.

) ';

■i

4 ■

liS

A \ O Y A G E T O

CHAP. VII.

i-f

T'/m' Pajjli:^^ from rn)i Dicwcn's Land to New Zealand, —
Emplo\f}icnts in 'i^ucen Charlotte's Sound. — Tranfai- lions
■ivilb the Natives there, — hitelTv^ence about the Mafacre
nf the .adventure's Boat's Cmv. — Account of the Chief ivbo
headed the Parfv on that Occajioii. — Of the fjco youn;^
Men zvho embark to attend Oinai.'— Various Remarks
on the Inhabitants. — /Ijlronomical and Nautical Ob/er-
vations.

'■" A ^ ciffhr oVIock in the mornino; of the -^othof Janmrv,

t_ -,-ij -tTjL :i li.i^ht hrcL/c ipringiiii; up :^t Well, we weighed an-

Thuffdayjo. t hoi", uiid put to \'c\\ tVoHi Advcntiue Hay. Soon after, the

wind veered to the Southward, and increafed to a perfcdl

Itorni. Its fury ahated in the evening, when it veered to

the Ealt and North Eaih

This gale v/as inchcated hy the barometer, for the wind
no fooner began to blow, than the niernu'y in the tube
began to fall. Another remarkable thing attended the
coming on of this wind, whic h was very faint at firlt. It
brought with it a degree of heat that was almoft intolerable.
The mercury in the thermometer rofe, as it were inlhmta-
neoully, from about 70 to near 90". This heat was of fo
fliort a (ontinuance, that it feemed to be wafted awa\ be-
fore the breeze that brought it; lo that fome on board did
not perceive it.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

119

February,

We purfued our conrfe to the Eaftward, without meeting
with any thing worthy of note, till the night hetwcen the
6th and 7th of Fcbriuiry, when a marine belonging to the Friday 7.
Difcovery fell over-board, and was never feen afterward.
This was the fetond misfortune of the kind that had hap-
pened to Captain Clerke fmce he left England.

On the loth, at four in the afternoon, we difcovered the Monday 10.
land of New Zealand. The part we faw proved to be Rock's
Point, and bore South Eall by South, about eight or nine
leagues dillant. During this run from Van Diemen's Land,
the wind, for the iirrt four or five day>, was at North Ealf,
North, and North North Weft, and blew, for the moft part,
a gentle breeze. It afterward veered to South Eaft, where
it remained twenty-four hoius. It then came to Weft and
South Weft ; in which points it continued, with very little
deviation, till we reached New Zealand.

A.fter making the land, I fteered for Cape Farewell, wliich
at day-break, the next morning, bore South by Weft, dilhint Tuefday 1 1.
about foiu" leagues. At eight o'clock, it bore South Weft
bv South, al)out (i\e leagues diftant ; and, in this iituation,
wc \\\\(\ fortv-(ive fathoms water oxer a Tandy ])ottom. In
n)ui"nling the Cape we had lifty fathoms, and tlie fame fort
of bottom.

I now fteered for Stephens's Illand, which we came up
with at nine o'clock at night; and at ten, next morning, Wcdnef. li
aiuhored in our old ftation, in Queen Charlotte's Sound *.
rmvilling to loft* any time, our operations commenced tl'.^.t
very afternoon, when we landed a number of enipty w ater-
lalks, atid began to clear a place where we migb.t fet up

* Sec llic Chan of Qiiccu Charlotte's Souiui, in Hawkclwortli's Collection, Vol. ii.

the

\ '.i

f20

A VOYAGE TO

iTiurfd.iy 13,

the two obfcrvatories, and tents for the reception of a guard,
and of fuch of our people whofe bufincfs might n. ike it ne-
cellary for them to remain on Ihore.

We had not been long at anchor before feveral canoes,
iilled with natives, came along-lide of the fliips ; but very
few of thon\ would venture on board ; which appeared the
more extraordinary, as I was well known to them all. There
wa> one man in particular amongrt them, whom 1 had
treated with remarkable kindnefs, dining the whole of my
ihiy when I was latl here. Yet now, neither profeflions of
friendlhip, nor prefents, couKl prevail iiix)n him to tome
into the Ihip. This Ihynefs \vas to be accounted for only
upon this i\ipi)olUion, that they were apprL-henfive we hat!
revifited their country, in order to revenge the death of
Captain Kurneau\\ people. Seeing Omai on boanl my Ihip
now, whom they muft have remembered to have feen on
board the Adventure when the melancholy affair hap-
pened, and \\hofe firll converfation with them, as they
approached, generally turned on that fubjt-ifl, they mult
be well aliiired that I was no longer a llrangcr to it. 1
thought it necertary, therefore, to iii'e every endeavour to
afTiu'e them of the continuance of my friendlhip, and that
I Ihould not dilhirb them on that account. I do not know
whether this had any weight with them ; but certain it is,
that they very foon laid afide all manner of rellraint and
dillruft.

On the 13th we fet up two tents, one from each fliip; on
the lame Ipot where we had {)iti bed them formerly. The
obiervatories were at the fame time erected ; and Melfrs.
King and Bayly began their operations immediately, to lin<l
the rate of the time-keeper, and to make other oblervations.
The remainder of the empty water-calks were alio lent on

fliore,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

lit

fliore, with the cooper to trim, and a fufficient mii^^'^er of
lailors to fill them. Two men were appointed to brew
fpruce bejr ; and the carpenter and his crew were ordered
to cut wood. A boat, with a party of men, under the di-
recStion of one of the mates, was fent to collefl grafs for our
cattle ; and the people that remained on board were em-
ployed in refitting the fliip, and arranging the provifions.
In this manner we were all profitably bufied during our
ftay. For the protedion of the party on lliore, I appointed
a guard of ♦^en marines, and ordered arms for all the work-
men ; and Mr. King, and two or three petty officers, con-
stantly remained with them. A boat was never fent to any
confiderable diftance from the Ihips without being armed,
and under the diredlion of fuch otFicers as I could depend
upon, and who were well acquainted with the natives.
During my former vifits to this country, I had never taken
1 ome of thefe precautions; nor were they, I firmly believe,
'iiore neceflTary now than they had been formerly. But after
the tragical fate of the Adventure's boat's crew in this
found, and of Captain Marion du Frefne, and of fome of
his people, in the Bay of Hlands *, it was impofilble totally
to divell oiufelves of all apprehenfion of experiencing a
fimilar calamity.

If the natives entertained any fufpicion of ovir reveng-
ing thefe ad:s of barbarity, they very foon laid it aiide.
For, dm'ing the courfe of this day, a great number of fa-
milies came from difierent parts of the coaft, and took up
their refidence dole to us ; fo that there was not a fpot
in the cove where a hut could be put up, that was not
occupied by them, except the place where we had fixed

♦ In 1772.

»777-
February.

Vol. I.

our

.5 ,

1:2

Fibriiarv.

A VOYAGE TO

our little encampment. This they left us in quiet poflcf-
lion of; but they came and took away the ruins of fomc
old huts tliat were there, as materials for their new erec-
tions.

It is curiou <o obferve with what facility they build thele
occailonal places of abode. I have feen above twenty of
them erciftetl on a fpot of ground, that, not an hour before,
was covered with Ihrubs and plants. They generally l)rlng
fome part of the materials with them ; the rell they find
upon the premifes. I was prelent when a number of people
landed, and built one of thele villages. 'I'he moment the
canoes readied the Ihore, the men leaped out, and at once
took poillilion of a piece of ground, by tearing up the plants
and Ihrubs, or kicking up fome part of the framing of a
hut. They then returned to their canoes, and lec\ired their
weapons, by letting them upagainll a tree, or placing them
in fuch a [H)rition, that they could be laid hold of in an in-
Itant. 1 took particular notice that no one neglected this
precaution. While the men were employed in railing the
huts, the women were not idle. Some were Ihitioned to
take care of the canoes ; others to fecure the provillons,
and the few utenfils in their poilelliori ; and the reil went
to gather dry Hicks, that a lire might be: prei>are(l for drcf-
ling their vicluals. As to the children, I kept them, as
alfo fome of tlie more aged, fullic iently occupied in ic ramb-
ling for bead-, till 1 had en^ptied mv pockets, and then I
left them.

'I'hef'e temporary habitations are abundantly fuHicient to
afford llielter from tlie wind and rain, which is the only
purjxjfe they are meant to anfwer. I obfer d that, gene-
rally, if not always, the fame tribe or family, thougli it
were ever io large, afibeiated and built together; fo that

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

12'

we frequently law a village, as well as their larger towns,
divided into different diltricils, by low pallitades, or fome
fimilar mode of reparation.

The advantage we received from the natives coming to
live with us, was not inconliderable. F'or, e^'ery day, when
the weather would permit, fome of them went out to
catch filh ; and we generally got, by exchanges, a good
iharc of the produce of their labours. This liipply, and
what o\ir own nets and lines afforded us, was fo ample,
that we il'ldom were in want of lifli. Nor was there any
deflcieniy of other refrefliments. Celery, fcurvy-grafs,
and portable foiij) were boiled with the peafe and wheat,
for both fliips companies, every day during our whole
Itay ; and they had fpruce-beer for their drink. So that,
if any of our people had contracted the feeds of the fcurvy,
fuch a regimen ibon removed them. But the truth is,
when we arrived here, there were only two invalids (and
thefe on board the Relblution) upon the lick liils in both
fliips.

Belldes the natives who took up their abode clofe to us,
we were occafionally viiited by others of them, whofe refi-
dence was not far olf ; and by fome who lived more remote.
Their articles of commerce were, curiofities, lifli, and wo-
men. The two firll always came to a good market ; which
the latter did not. The feamen had taken a kind of diilikc
to thefe people ; and were cither unwiUing, or afraid, to
afTociatc with them ; w hich produced this good effed, that
I knew no inftance of a man's quitting his ilatiun, to go to
tlieir habitations.

A connexion with women 1 allow, becaufe I cannot j^rc-
\ ci\t it ; l)ut never encourage, bccaul'c I always dread its
conlc(piences. 1 know, intleed, that many men are of o[)i-

II 2 nion,

»777-
Febru.iry.

i ■':

'tl I

124

Fcliruarv.

Hi!

A VOYAGE TO

nion, that fuch an intercourfe is one of our greateft fecuritics
amongit favages ; and perhaps they who, either from ac-
(cflity or i lioicc, are to remain and fettle with them, may
lind it fo. But with travellers and tranlient vifiters, fuch as
we were, it is generally othenvifc ; and, in our fituation, a
connexion with their women hetrays more men than it
faves. What elfe can be reafonably expcifted, fiiicc all their
views are felfiih, without the leall mixture of regard or at-
tachment ? My own experience, at leall, which hath been
pretty extenfivc, hath not jwinted out to me one initance to
the contrary.

Amongll our occafional vifiters, was a chief named Ka-
h(X)ra, who, as I was informed, headed the party that cut
off Captain Furneaux's people, and himfelf killed Mr. Rowe,
the officer who commanded. To jvidgc of the chara<fter of
Kahoora, by what I heard from many of his countrymen,
he feeined to be more feared than beloved amongll them.
Not fatisfied with telling me that he was a very bad man,
fome of them even importiuicd me to kill him : and, I be-
lieve, iliey were not a little furpril'ed that I did not liften to
them ; for, according to their ideas of equity, this ought to
have been done. But if I had followed the advice of all
our pretended friends, I might have extirpated the whole
race ; for the people of each hamlet or village, by turns,
ai)])licd to me to deftroy the other. One would have al-
mod thought it impoihlile, that I'o flriking a proof of the
divided Itate in which this miferable i>eople live, could
have been afTigned. And yet I was fure that 1 did not
mifconceive the meaning of thofe who made th^fe Ib'ange
applications to me ; for Omai, whofe language was a di;dei5t
of their own, and perfectly underllood .lU that they faid,
was our inter])reter.

t.i L p -L-r

. l_j.j: -tzrr ^ -L- 1 a- Ijfr

4-^^^^f.

■^,'?''

.i* -' i' T^. .■*0 A'ltiJhi fitifif

i.\ ■' •■- *v y* *

'■W

.'.■ ,1'. •»..»•■ :■>' •J' 'S^' • • <

-» w

\ -<•

•«!)'

.(7-

' \

■\o>.

.■'

.»>'

,ii>

K;io f 1 ^

1 _i_4_ I 1 - 1 - I—Z-

r-^Jr_ki '■ i-LJ:

r-^

.}— I J -( rn-TrJT -j 4-:i-rT-T r.'.x^j:j_~i jT .■ :p;j_i-4 -i 1 1 i--ij_x.j

■f

l-3.:y-fc:r-t-L-i-i.-l i' f4 =i=c£-ryiH^nT-r-i-t--=^r4H -f ti^a

.. •{]

.•^„«:..„„

hi/rif'Ui}i>'.t I..',

^//,;u.;f,, l,':i,>ii

M-,./,, ,. /.„,„

'1 i 'I -• -FT 1- |_1 ; : 1 ,. L i— l-J 1^ 1 1 j- 1 1 I

'^J;

lM(i

! U

rooi-iyi- ^"")

fl'-

Ki'jrIH!. Kniv.i! .:"-'»^

/'■"

-1_1«J

\,iii III,.' I' . :i» j

(. II A K I-

o/'l/if

ruiKsni.r Is i.Ay ns-

:1.-J I ; 1 i: - ' iiiri-':;. f-!

-J-

r;i33=zkL-L=e

L q:-i- ■•■ t- r^^za^j^

r— T

iU-

1 1

,i-

S-*

"//'■'•'"■/•'JV \'-..\ .i- /, ;;,'•. I

1 . ,r.. »_

l,,.<:,£V-*'^^'^

fl^

/;.,.vv,.-,.. f, O . /''^'''''^'M

■ r--:i^>';> 7 B

y,v-- Qtal.-m' -

\SliS.

- 1__L y J_

iMU

1 8.;

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

February.

On the 15th, I made an excurfion in my boat to look, for
grafS) and vifited the Hippah, or fortified village at the
South Weft point of Motuara, and the places where our Siturday 15
gardens had been planted on that iiland. There were no
people at ti.-;: former; but the houfes and pallifades had
been rebuilt, and were now in a ftate of good repair ; and
there were other evident marks of its having been inha-
bited not long before. It would be unneceflary, at prefent,
to give a particular account of this Hippah, fufficient notice
having been taken of it in the Account of my firft Voyage,
to which I refer * ; and to the annexed drawing, which re-
prefents part of the infide of the \illage, and will convey a
better idea of it, than any written dcfcription.

When the Adventure arrived firft at Queen Charlotte's
Sound, in 1773 +, Mr. Bayly fixed upon this place for mak-
ing his obfervations ; and he, and the people with him, at
their leifure hours, planted feveral fpots with Englifh gar-
den feeds. Not the leaft veftige of thefe now remained. It
is probable that they had been all rooted out to make room
for buildings, when the village was reinhabited : for, at all
the other gardens then planted by Captain Furneaux, al-
thovigh now wholly over-run with the weeds of the coun-
try, we found cabbages, onions, leeks, purllain, radifties,
muftard, 8r.c. and a few potatoes. Thefe potatoes, which
were firft brought from tl c Cape of Good Hope, had been
greatly improved by chai ge of foil ; and, with proper cul-
tivation, would be fuperior to thofe produced in moft other
countries. Though the New Zcalanders are fond of this
root, it was evident that they had iwt taken the trouble to
plant a fmgle one (much lefs any other of the articles which

* Hawkefworth's Colleftion, Vol. ii. p. 395, &c.
t Cook's Vopge, Vol. i. p. 120.

:^'

^Ll?

ia6

«777-
February.

Sunday i6.

■i

A VOYAGE TO

we had introtluccd) ; and if it were not for the difficidty of
clearing ground where iwtatocs had been once planted,
there would not have been any now remaining.

On the i6th, at day-break, I fet out with a party of men,
in five boats, to collect food for our cattle. Captain Gierke,
and fc -^ral of the officers, Omai, and two of the natives,
accompanied me. We proceedetl about three leagues up
the found, and then landed on the Eall fide, at a place
where 1 liad formerly been. Here wc cut as much grafs as
loaded the two launches.

As we returned down the found, we vifited Grafs Cove,
the memorable fcene of the Malfacre of Captain Furneaux's
people. Here I met with my old friend Pedro, who was
idmoft continually with me the lalt time 1 was in this found,
and is mentioned in my Iliftory of that Voyage •••. He, and
another of his countrymen, received us on the beach,
armed with the pa-too and fpcar. Whether this form of
reception was a mark of their courtefy or of their fear, I
cannot fay ; but I thought they betrayed manifert figns of
the latter. However, if they had any apprehenfions, a few
X»rcfents foon removed them, and brought down to the
beach two or three more of the family ; but the greateil
part of them remained out of fight.

Whilft we were at this place, oiu' curiofity prompted us to
inquire into the circumitances attending the melancholy
fate of our countrymen ; and Omai was made ufe of as our
interpreter for this purpofe. Pedro, and the reft of the na-
tives prefent, anfwered all the queftions that were put to
them on the fubjedl, without referve, and like men who
are under no dread of punifliment for a crime of which
they are not guilty. For we already knew that none of

* Captain Cock's Voyage, Vol. li. p. 158, 159.

them

.SR

i H

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

them had been concerned in the unhappy tranfaiftion. They
told us, that while our people were fitting at tUnner, fur-
rounded by feveral of the natives, fome of the latter ilolc, or
fnatched from tlicm, Ibme breail and fifli, for which they
were beat. This being relented, a quarrel enfued, and two
New Zealandcrs were fhot dead, by the only two muftiuets
that were fired. For before our people hatl time to dif-
charge a third, or to load again thofc that had been fired,
the natives rufhcd in upon them, overpowered them with
their numbers, and put them all to death. \'edro and his
companions, befidcs relating the hillory of the mafiUcre,
made us acquainted with the very fpot that was the fccn ' of
it. It is at the corner of the cove on the right- aand. '"hey
pointed to the place of the fun, to mark to us at what hour
of the day it happened ; and, according to this, it mull have
been late in the afternoon. They alfo Ihewcd us th niace
where the boat lay ; and it appeared to be about two hiui-
dred yards diftant from that where the crew were feated.
One of their number, a black fervant of Captain Furncaux,
was left in the boat to take care of her.

We were afterward told that this black was the caufc of
the quarrel, which was faid to have happened thus : One of
the natives ftealing fomething out of the boat, the Negro
gave him a fevere blow with a ftick. The cries of the fel-
low being heard by his coiuitrymen at a diftancc, they
imagined he was killed, and immediately began the attack
on our people ; who, before they had Jr/.e to reach the
boat, or to arm themfelves againft the unexpected im-
pending danger, fell a facrifice to the fury of their favage
aflTailants.

The firfl: of thefe accounts, was confirmed by the tefti-
mony of many of tlic natives, whom we converfed with, at

1 different

127

February.

^H^

If ^

iff'

*'T.

III ^

1 ^M

lf'!f

•1

'.-/

pf .'

1? - .

ij^f,

::i^,
M..^

i^^ ;•■

la8

1777'
February.

A VOYAGE TO

different times, and who, I think, could have no intereft
in deceiving us. The fecond manner of relating the tranf-
adlion, refts upon the autiiority of the young New Zealan-
der, who chofe to abandon his country and go away with
us, and who, confequently, could have no poflib)" view in
difguifing the truth. All agreeing that the quarrel hap-
pened when the boat's crew were fitting at their meal, it is
highly probable that both accounts are true, as they per-
fedlly coincide. For we may very naturally ^nppofe, that
while fome of the natives were ftealing from the man who
had been left in the boat, others of them might take the
fame liberties with the property of our people who were
on fliore.

Be this as it will, all agree, that the quarrel firft took its
rife from fome thefts, in the commiflion of which the na-
tives were detedled. All agree, alfo, that there was no pre-
meditated plan of bloodflied, and that, if thefe thefts had
not been, unfortunately, too haftily refented, no mifchief
would have happened. For Kahoora's greateft enemies,
thofe who folicited his deftrudlion moft earneftly, at the
fame time confeffed that he had no intention to quarrel,
much lefs to kill, till the fray had a(flually commenced. It
alfo appears that the imhappy vidlims were under no fort of
apprehenfion of their fate; otherwife they never would
have ventured to lit down to a repaft at fo confiderable a
dillance from their boat, amongft people Avho were the
next moment to be their murderers. What became of the
boat I never could learn. Some faid flie was pulled to
pieces and burnt ; others told us that Iht was carried, they
\new not whither, by a party of ftrangers.

We Hayed here till the evening, when, having loaded
the reft of the boats with grafs, celery, icurvy-grafs, &:c.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

129

•777.
February.

we embarked to return to the fliips. We had prevailed

upon Pedro to launch his canoe, and accompany \is ; but

we had fcarcely put off from the lliore, when the wind

began to blow very hard at North Weft, which obliged

him to put back. We proceeded ourfelves, but it was with

a good deal of difficulty that we could reach the fliips ;

where fome of the boats did not arrive till one o'clock

the next morning; and it was fortunate that they got on Monday 17.

board then, for it afterward blew a perfe(5t ftorm, with

abundance of rain, fo that no manner of work could go

forward that day. In the evening the gale ceafed, and

the wind having veered to the Eait, brought with it fair

weather.

The next day we refumed our works ; the natives ven- Tuefday is.
tured out to catch fifli ; and Pedro, with all his family, came
and took up his abode near us. This Chief's proper name
is Matahouah ; the other being given him by fome of my
people diuring my laft Voyage, which I did not know till
now. He was, however, equally well known amongft his
countrymen by both names.

On the 20th, in the forenoon, we had another ftorm from Thurfday 20.
the North Weft. Though this was not of fo long continu-
ance as the former, the gufts of wind from the hills were
far more violent, infomuch that we were obliged to ftrike
the yards and top-mafts to the very utmoft ; and, even with
all this precaution, it was with difficulty that we rode it
out. Thefe ftorms are very frequent here, and fometimes
violent and troublefome. The neighbouring mountains,
which at thefe times are always loaded with vapours, not
only increafe the force of the wind, but alter its dire(5tion in
fuch a manner, that no two blafts follow each other from
the fame quarter ; and the nearer the Ihore, the more their
cffcds are felt.

Vol. I. S The

•!, 1-;?

a'f

I, :

130

A VOYAGE TO

February.

.., -^

The next day we were vifited by a tribe or family, con-
fifting of about thirty perfons, men, women, and children,
who came from the upper part of the Sound. 1 had never
feen them before. The name of their Chief was Toma-
tongeauooranuc ; a man of about forty-five years of age,
with a cheerful open countenance. And, indeed, the reft
of his tribe were, in general, the handfomeft of the New
Zealand race I had ever met with.

By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of
the Sound had fettled themfelves about us. Great num-
bers of them daily frequented the fliips, and the encamp-
ment on Ihore : but the latter became, b / far, the moft
favourite place of refort, while our people there were
melting fome feal blubber. No Greenlander was ever
fonder of train-oil, than our friends here feemed to be.
They relilhed the very fkimmings of the kettle, and dregs
of the cafks ; but a little of the piire ftinking oil was a
delicious feaft, fo eagerly defired, that I fuppole it is fel-
dom enjoyed.

Having got on board as much hay and grafs as we
judged lufficient to ferve the cattle till our arrival at Ota-
heite, and having completed the wood and water ci hoth
Sunday 23. fhips, on the 23d we ftruck our tents, and carried every
Monday 2+. thing off from the (hore ; and next morning we weighed
anchor, and ftood out of the Cove. But the wind not being
very fair, and finding that the tide of ebb would be fpent
before we could get out of the Sound, we call anchor again
a little without the ifland Motuara, to wait for a more fa-
vourable opportunity of putting into the ftrait.

While we were uni ooring and getting under fail. To-
rn atongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and many more of the
natives, came to take their leave of us, or rather to obtain,
if they could, ibme additional prcfents from us before we
3 left

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

left them. Thefe two Chiefs became fuitors to me for fome
goats and hogs. Accordingly, I gave to Matahouah two
goats, a male and female with kid ; and to Tomaton-
geauooramic two pigs, a boar and a fow. They made me
■a. promife not to kill them ; though I mull own I put no
great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furneaux
lent on fliore here, and which foon after fell into the hands
of the natives, I was now told were all dead ; but I could
get no intelligence about the fate of thofe I had left in
Weft Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in the
courfe of my laft Voyage. However, all the natives, whom
1 converfed with, agreed, that poultry are now to be met
with wild in the woods behind Ship Cove ; and I was after-
ward informed, by the two yoviths who went away with us,
that Tiratou, a popular Chief amongil them, had a great
many cocks and hens in his feparate poffeflion, and one of
the fows.

On my prefent arrival at this place, I fully intended to
have left not only goats and hogs, but flieep, and a young
bidl, with two heifers, if I could have found either a Chief
ix)werfvd enough to protect and keep them, or a place
where there might be a probability of their being concealed
from thofe who would ignorantly attempt to deftroy them.
But neither the one nor the other prefented itfelf to me.
Tiratou was now abfent ; and Tringoboohee, whom I had
met with during my laft Voyage •••'■, and who leemed to be a
perfon of much confequence at that time, had been killed
five months ago, with about feventy perfons of his tribe ;
and I could not learn that there now remained in our
neighbourhood any tribe, whofe numbers could fecure to

131

«777-
February.

* Sec Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 157.
S 2

them

m m

' - f

132

«777-
Februcry.

Tuefda;

A VOYAGE TO

them a fuperiority of power over the reft of their country-
men. To have given the animals to any of the natives who
poffeffed no fuch power, would not have anfwered the in-
tention. For in a country like this, where no man's pro-
perty is fecure, they would foon have fallen a prey to dif-
ferent parties, and been either Separated or killed ; but moft
likely both. This was fo evident, from what we had ob-
ferved fince our arrival, that I had reiblved to leave no kind
of animal, till Matahouah and the other Chief folicited me
for the hogs and goats. As I could fpare them, I let them
go, to take their chance. I have, at different times, left in
New Zealand, not lefs than ten or a dozen hogs, befides
thofe put on Ihore by Captain Furaeaux. It will be a
little extraordinary, therefore, if this race fliould not in-
creafe and be preferved here, either in a wild or in a do-
meftic ftate, or in both.

We had not been long at anchor near Motuara, before
three or four canoes, filled with natives, came off to us from
the South Eaft lide of the Sound ; and a brifk trade was car-
ried on with them for the curiofities of this place. In one
of thefe canoes was Kahoora, whom I have already men-
tioned as the leader of rhe party who cut off the crew of the
Adventure's boat. This was the third time he had vifited
us, without betraying the fmallefl appearance of fear. I
was afhore when he now arrived, but had got on board juft
as he was going away. Omai, who had returned with me,
prefently pointed him out, and folicited me to flioot him.
Not fatisfied with this, he addreffed himfelf to Kahoora,
threatening to be his executioner, if ever he prefumed to
vifit us again.

The New Zealander paid fo little regard to thefe threats,
that he returned, the next morning, with his whole family,

men,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

men, women, and children, to the number of twenty and
upward. Omai was the firft who acquainted me with his
being along-fide the (hip, and defired to know if he Ihould
afk him to come on board. I told him he might ; and ac-
cordingly he introduced the Chief into the cabin, faying,
" There is Kahoora, kill him !" But, as if he had forgot
his former threats, or were afraid that I Ihould call upon
him to perform them, he immediately retired. In a Ihort
time, however, he returned ; and feeing the Chief unhurt,
he expoftulated with me very earneftly, faying, " Why do
" you not kill him ? You tell me, if a man kills another in
" England, that he is hanged for it. This man has killed
« ten, and yet you will not kill him ; though many of his
" countrymen defire it, and it would be very good." Omai's
arguments, though fpecious enough, having no weight
with me, I defired him to afk the Chief, why he had killed
Captain Furneaux's people ? At this queftion, Kahoora fold-
ed his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one
caught in a trap : And, I firmly believe, he expected inftant
death. But no fooner was he affured of his fafety, than he
became cheerful. He did not, however, feem willing to
give me an anfwer to the queftion that had been put to
him, till I had, again and again, repeated my promife that
he fliould not be hurt. Then he ventured to tell us, That
one of his countrymen having brought a ftone hatchet to
barter, the man, to whom it was offered, took it, and would
neither return it, nor give any thing for it '. on which the
owner of it fnatched up the bread as an equivalent; and
then the quarrel began.

The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy af-
fair, differed very littl'' f^:om what we had before learnt,
from the reft of his countrymen. Ht inentioned the rar

rvw

133

'777-
Februarv.

I i

134

A VOYAGE TO

sik

«777-
February.

row efcape he had, during the fray ; a miifquet being le-
velled at him, which he avoided by fkulking behind the
])oat ; and another man, wh,> ilootl clofe to him, was (hot
dead. As loon as the mufquc»: was difcharged, he inft;;i\tly
^ized the opportunity to attack Mr. Rowe, who commimd-
ed the party, and who defended himfelf with his hai^.ger
(with which he wounded Kahoora in the arm), dH he v as
overpowered by numbers.

Mr. Burney, who was fent by Captain Furneaux the next
day ••■, with an armed party, to look for his mifling pe -pie,
uyKiW diJcovering the horrid proofs of their Ihockin;,/ fate,
liad iii'i d levei'ii vollies amongll the crowds vf iiatives
who lliil remained aHembied on the; fpot, and were, pro-
bably, parinkin^^ <jf tlf dt^telliiblc banquet. It was na-
tural to firppofe that he h.u<l not fired in vain; and that,
therefore^ fonie oi Jie murdeiers and devourers of our
unhappy ( ousitrymcn had i\iftcred vmder our juft rcfent-
ment. Upon inquiry, however, into this matter., not
only from Kahoora, but from others who had opportuni-
ties of knowing, it appeared that our fuppofition was
groundlefs, raid that not one of the fliot fired by Mr. Bur-
ney'3 people hud taken eifed, fo as to kill, or even to hurt,
a fingle perfon.

U was evident, that moft of the natives we had met with
fince our arrival, as they knev/ I was fully acquaintec^ with
the hiftory of the maffacre, expe<Sled I fliould avenge it
with the death of Kahoora. And many of them feemed
not only to wifli it, but expreffed their furprize at my for-
bearance. As he co\ild not be ignorant of this, it was a
matter of wonder to me^ that he put himfelf fo often in my

* See his Narrative. Cock's Voy^c, Vol. li. p. 255—259.

power,

.^•f'K

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

135

; '1

power* When he vifited us while the Ihips lay in the
Cove, confiding in the number of his friends that accom-
panied him, he might think himfelf fafe. But his two
laft vifits had been made under fuch circumftances, that
he could no longer rely upon this. We were then at an-
chor in the entrance of the Sound, and at fome diftance
from any Ihore ; fo that he could not have any afliftance
from thence, nor flatter himfelf he could have the means
of making his efcape, had I determined to detain him.
And yet, after his firft fears, on being interrogated, were
ever, he was fo far from entertaining any uneafy fenfations,
that, on feeing a portrait of one of his countrymen hang-
ing up in the cabbin, he defired to have his own portrait
drawn ; and fat till Mr. Webber had finiflied it, without
marking the leaft impatience. I muft confefs, I admired
his courage, and was not a little plea fed to obferve the ex-
tent of the confidence he put in me. For he placed his
whole fafety in the declarations I had uniformly made to
thofe who folicited his death. That I had always been a
friend to them all, and would continue fo, unlefs they gave
me caufe to a<Sl otherwife : that as to their inhuman treat-
ment of our people, I fliould think no more of it, the tranf-
adlion having happened long ago, and when I was not
prefent ; but that, if ever they made a fecond attempt of
that kind, they might rell aflured of feeling the weignt of
my refentment.

For Tome time before we arrived at New Zealand, Omai
had exprelTed a defire to take one of the natives with him
to his own country. We had not been there many days,
before he had an opportunity of being gratified in this;
for a youth about feventeen or eighteen years of age,
named Taweiharooa, offered to accompany him ; and took

1777-
February.

■ii^-

136

A VOYAGE TO

Mil-
Felwuary.

up his refulence on board. I paid little attention to this
at firit, imagining that he would leave us when we were
about to depart, and after he had got what he could from
Omai. At length, finding that he was fixed in his refolu-
tion to go with us, and having learnt that he was the only
fon of a deceafed Chief, and that his mother, ftill listing,
was a woman much refpedled here, I was apprehenfive that
Omai had deceived him and his friends, by giving them
hopes and alUirances of his being fent back. I therefore
caufed it to be made known to them all, that if the young
man went away with us, he would never return. But this
declaration leemed to make no fort of imprefilion. The af-
ternoon before we left the Cove, Tiratoutou, his mother,
came on board, to receive her laft jirefent from Omai. The
fame evening, flie and Taweiharooa parted, with all the
marks of tender affedlion that might be expelled between a
parent and a child, who were never to meet again. But
flie faid Ihe would cry no more ; and, furc enough, flie kept
her word. For when flic returned the next morning, to
take her laft farewell of him, all tlie time flie was on board
flie remained quite cheerful, and went away wholly un-
concerned.

That Taweiharooa might be fcnt away in a manner be-
coming his birth, another youth was to have gone with him
as his fcrvant ; and, with this view, as we fupix)fed, he
remained on board till we were about to fail, when hi*
friends took hini afliore. However, his place was fupplied,
next morning, by anotiier, a boy of about nine or ten
years of age, named Kokoa. lie was prefeiited to me by
his own father, who, I believe, would have parted with his
dog with far Icfs indifference. The very little clothing the
boy had, he ftri])t him of, and left him as naked as he was

born.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

born. It was to no pvirpofe that I endeavoured to con-
vince thefc people of the improbabiUty, or rather of the
impoflibility, of thefe youths ever returning home. Not
onci not even their nearelt relations, fcemed to trouble
themfelves about their future fate. Since this was the cafe,
and I was well fatisfied that the boys would be no lofers
by exchange of place, I the more readily gave my confent
to their going.

From my own obfervations, and from the information
of Taweiharooa and others, it appears to me that the New
Zealanders muft live under perpetual apprehenfions of be-
ing deftroyed by each other; there being few of their tribes
that have not, as they think, fullained wrongs from fome
other tribe, which they are continually upoa the watch to
revenge. And, perhaps, the defire of a good meal may be
no fmall incitement. I am told that many years will fome-
times elapfe, before a favourable opportunity happens, and
that the fon never lofes fight of an injury that has been
done to his father. Their method of executing their hor-
rible defigns, is by ftealing upon the adverfe party in the
night ; and if they find them ung^nrded (which, howt, 'cr,
I believe, is very feldom the cafe), they kill every one indif
criminately ; not even fparing the women and children.
When the maflacre is completed, they either feaft and gorge
themfelves on the fpot, or carry off as many of tlie dead
bodies as they can, and devovir them at home, with adls of
brutaJity too fhocking to be defcribed. If they are difco-
vered before they can execute their bloody pvirpofe, they
generally fteal off again ; and fomclimes are purfued and
attacked by the other party, in their turn. To give quarter,
or to take prifoners, makes no part of their militrvr / . . - ;
fo that the vanquiflied can only fave their lives by fiignt.

Vol. I. T This

137

«777-
February.

,,!

'^^4

138

>777-
February.

A VOYAGE TO

This perpetual llatc of war, and dcrtrudlive method of con-
dii^ling it, operates lb ilroi\i>ly in j)roducing habitual cir-
ciimlpe(5lion, that one hardW ever fuids a New Zealander
ort'his guard, either by mi'i'C ' » by day. Indeed, no other
man can have fuch ,\>\verful iPotive> to be vigilant, as the
prefervation both i)f body and of foul depends upon it.
For, according to their fyllem of belief, the foul oi'ili-* man
whofe flelli is devoured by the enemy, is doomed to a per-
petual fire, while the foul of the man wboO^ body has been
rcfcucd from thofe who killed him, us well a^ th*. fouls of
all who die a natural death, afcend to the habitations of the
Gods. I pflced. Whether they eat the fiefli of fuch of their
friends at had been killed in war, but whofe bodies were
faved from falling into the t.iemy's hands? They feemed
furpri2.cd at the cpieftion, which they anfwered in the ne-
gative, exprefling ibme abhorrence at the very idea. Their
common method of difpoling of their dead, is by depofit-
ing their bodies in the earth ; but if they have more of
their llaughtered enemies than they can eat, they throw
them into the iea.

They have no fuch thing as morals^ or other places of
public worfliip; nor do they ever alFemble together with
this view. But they have Priells, who alone addrefs the
Gods in prayers, for the profperity of their temporal af-
fairs ; fuch as an enterprife againll a hoifile tribe, a filhing
party, or the like.

Whatever the pri triples of their religion may be, of
which we remain very ignorant, its in'llrudlions are very
ftrongly inculcated into them from their very infancy.
Of this I faw a remarkable inltance, in the youth who
was firft dertined to accompany Taweiharooa. He re-
frained from eating the greatclt part of the day, on ac-
I count

' 1 ',S

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

count of his hair heing cut ; though every method was
tried to induce him to break, his rcibhuion; and he was
tempted with the offer of Inch vi(ftuals as he was known to
efteem the molt. lie laid, it" he eat any thini; that day, the
Eatooa would kill him. However, toward evening, the
cravings of nature got the better of the precepts of his
religion, and he eat, though but fparingly. 1 had often
conjedtured, before this, that they had Ibme fuperrtitious
notions about their hair, having frequently obferved quan-
tities of it tied to the branches of trees near lome of their
habitations ; but what thefe notions are, I never could
learn.

Notwithftanding the divided and hoftile Hate in which
the New Zealanders live, travelling ftrangers, who come
with no ill defign, are well received and entertained during
their ftay ; which, however, it is expelled, will be no
longer than is requifite to tranfadl the bufinefs they come
upon. Thus it is that a trade for poenarnnioo, or green
talc, is carried on throughout the whole northern illand.
For they tell us, that there is none of this ilonc to be
found, but at a place which bears its name, fomewhere about
the head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and not above one
or two days journey, it moft, from the ftation of our fliips.
I regretted much that I could not fpare time fufficient for
paying a vifit to the place ; as we were told a hundred fa-
bidous ilories about this ftone, not one of which carried
with it the leall probability of truth, though fome of
their moft fenfible men would have us believe them. One
of thefe ftories is, that this ftone is originally a liih, which
they ftrike with a gig in the water, tie a rope to it, and
drag it to the fliore, to which they faften it, and it after-
ward becomes ftone. As they all agree, that it is fiflied

T 2 out

139

JV7-

140

Fcbriwry.

, I

W i

A VOYAGE TO

out of a large lake, or coUed^ion of waters, the moft pro-
bable coiijcdure is, that it is brought from the mountains,
and tlepolited in the water, by the torrents. This lake is
called by the natives Tavai Poenatnmoo ; that is, the water of
Green Talc ; and it is only the adjoining part of the coun-
tr>, and not the whole Southern illand of New Zealand,
that is known to them by the name which hath been given
to it on my chart '*.

Polygamy is allowed amongft thefe people ; and it is not
uncommon for a man to have two or three wives. The
women are marriageable at a very early age ; and it fliould
feem, that one who is unmarried, is but in a forlorn ftate.
She can with difficulty get a fubllftencc ; at leall, (lie is, in
a great mealure, without a protedor, though in conftant
want of a powerful one.

The New Zealanders feem to be a people perfedly fatif-
fied with the little knowledge they are mafters of, without
attempting, in the leaft, to improve it. Nor are they re-
markably curious, either in their obfervations, or their in-
quiries. New objcdls do not ftrikc them with fnch a degree
of furprize as one would naturally exped ; nor do they
even fix their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, who
was a great favourite with them, would fometimes attradt
a circle about him ; but they feemcd to liften to his fpeeches,
like perfons who neither imderftood, nor wifhed to vuider-
ftand, what they heard.

One day, on om' enquiring of Taweiharooa, how many
fliips, fuch as ours, had ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's
Soimd, or in any part of its neighbourhood? he began with
giving an accoimt of one abfolutely unknown to us. This, he

• See Captain Cook's chart of New Zealand, in Hawkcf. Coll, vol. ii. p. 281.

faid,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

faid, had put into a port on the North Weft coaft of Teera-
witte, but a very few years before I arrived in the Sound in
the Endeavour, which the New Zealanders diftinguifti, l)y
calling it Tupia's fliip. At firlt, I thought he might have
been miftaken as to the tinne and place; and that the (hip in
queftion might be either Monfieur Surville's, who is faid to
have touched upon the North Eaft coaft of Eaheinomauwe,
the fame year I was there in the Endeavour; or elfeMt^nfieup
Marion du Frefne's, who was in the Bay of Iflands, on the
fame coaft, a few years after. But he afliired us, that he
was not miftaken, either as to the time, or as to the place
of this fliip's arrival ; and that it was well known to every
body about Queen Charlotte's Sound and Tcerawitte. He
faid, that the Captain of her, during his ftay here, coha-
bited with a woman of the country ; and that flie had a fon
by him ftill living, and about the age of Kokoa; who,
though not born then, feemed to be equally well acquaint-
ed with the ftory. We were alfo informed by Taweiharooa,
that this ftiip firft introduced the venereal difeafe amongft
the New Zealanders. I wifli that fubfequent vifiters from
Europe may not have their ftiare of guilt, in leaving fo
dreadful a remembrance of them amongft this unhappy
race. The diforder now is but too common here ; though
they do not feem to regard it ; faying, that its efFe<5l3 are
not near fo pernicious at prefent, as they were at its firft
appearance. The only method, as far as I ever heard, that
they make ufe of as a remedy, is by giving the patient the
ufe of a fort of hot bath, which they produce by the fteam
of certain green plants laid over hot ftones.

I regretted much that we did not hear of this ftiip vliile
we were in the Sound ; as, by means of Omai, we might
have had full and corredl information about her from eye-

witnefles^

141

1777.

February.

142

«777-
February.

A VOYAGE TO

witnefles. For Taweiharooa's account was only from what
he had been told, and therefore hable to many miftakes.
I have not the leaft doubt, however, that his teftimony may
fo far be depended upon, as to induce us to beUcve, that
a fhip really had been at Teerawitte prior to my arrival in
the Endeavour, as it correfponds with what I had formerly
heard. For in the latter end of 1773, the fecond time I
vifited New Zealand, during my late voyage, when we were
continually making inquiries about the Adventure, after
our reparation, fome of the natives informed us of a fliip's
having been in a port on the coaft of Teerawitte. But, at
that time, we thought we mull: have mifundcrftood them,
and took no notice of the intelligence.

The arrival of this unknown fhip has been marked by
the New ZeiUanders with more caufes of remembrance
than the unhappy one jull mentioned. Tawciharooa told
us, their country was indebted to her people for the prcfent
of an animal, which they left behind them. But as he had
not feen it himfelf, no fort of judgment could be form-
ed from his dcfcription, of what kind it was.

We had another piece of intelligence from him, more
correctly given, though not confirmed by our own obferva-
rions, that there are Ihakes and lizards there of an enor-
mous fize. He defcribed the latter as being eight feet in
length, and as big round as a man's body. He faid, they
fometimes ieize and devour men ; that they burrow in the
ground ; and that they are killed by making fires at the
mouths of the holes. We could not be miftaken as to the
animal ; for, with his own hand, he drew a very goo<l re-
prefentation of a lizard on a piece of paper ; as alfo of a
fnake, in order to fliew what he meant.

Though much has been faid, in the Narratives of my

Two

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

Two former Voyages, about this country and its inhabi-
tants, Mr. Anderfon's Remarks, as ferving either to confirm
or to corred: our former accounts, may not be fuperliuous.
He had been three times with me in Queen Charlotte's
Sound, during my laft Voyage ; and, after this fourth vifit,
what he thought proper to record, may be confidered as the
refult of fufficient obfervation. The Reader will find it in
the next Chapter ; and I have nothing farther to add, be-
fore I quit New Zealand, but to give fome account of the
aftronomical and nautical obfervations made during our
ftay there.

The Longitude of the Obfervatory in Ship

Cove, by a mean of 103 fets of obferva-
tions, each fet confiiling of fix or more

obferved dillances, was - - - I74''25' i5"Eail:.

By the time-keeper, at Greenwich rate, it

was _ _ _ - - - 1-75 26 30

By ditto, at the Cape rate, it was - - 174 56 12
Variation of the compafs, being the mean

of fix needles, obferved on board the

fhip - - - - - -12400 Eaft.

By the fame needles on fliore, it was - 13 53 o

The dip of the South end, obferved on

fliore, was - - - - 63 42 o

^43

9^" '

By a mean of tiic refults of eleven days obfervations, the
time-keeper was too How for mean time, on February 22 at
noon, by ii"" 50' 37' 5396; and Ihe was found to be lofiiig
on mean time, at the rate of 2",9i3 per day. From this rate
the longitude will be computed, till fome other opportunity
offers to afccrtain her rate anew. The aftronomical ck)ck,

with

I'Fnr"

"irij

Jin

i i' . '

f!S|

1
1
1

: i

B'v.

l^:;,:

144

«777-
February.

A VOYAGE TO

with the fame length of pendulum as at Greenwich, was
found to be lofing on lidereal time 4o",239 per day.

It will not be amifs to mention, that the longitude, by-
lunar obfervations, as above, differs only 6' 45'' from what
Mr. Wales made it during my laft Voyage ; his being fo
much more to the Weft, or 174° 18' 30".

The latitude of Ship Cove is 41" 6' 0", as found by Mr.
Wales. -

i'-.,f

- i

C II A P.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

145

CHAP. VIII.

Mr, Anderfori's Remarks on the Country near ^een Char^
bite's Sound. — The Soil. — Climate. ^^Weather. — Winds. —
"trees. — Plants.—- Birds. —Fijh, — Other Animals. — Of the
Inhabitants. — Defcription of their Perfons. — neir Drefs.-^
Ornaments. — Habitations. — Boats. — Food and Cookery.—
Arts. — Weapons. — Cruelty to Prifoners. — Various Cujioms.
•—Specimen of their Language.

THE land every where about Queen Charlotte's Sound 1777.
is uncommonly mountainous, rifing immediately .J''^''"!'"^^
from the fea into large hills with blunted tops. At confi-
derable dijftances are valleys, or rather impreffions on the
fides of the hills, which are not deep ; each terminating
toward the fea in a fmall cove, with a pebbly or fandy
beach ; behind which are fmall flats, where the natives
generally build their huts, at the fame time hauling their
canoes uix)n the beaches. This fitu don is the more
convenient, as in every cove a brook of very line water
(in which are fome fmall trout) empties itfelf into the
fea.

The bafes of thefe mountains, .it 'eaft toward the fliore,
are conftituted of a brittle, yellowifli fand-ftone, w^hich ac-
qviires a bluiili caft, where the fea walhes it. It runs, at
fonic places, in horizontal, and, at other places, in oblique
firata ; beuig frequently divided, at fmall dillances, by thin

Vol. I. U veins

■Ja He ^

4(\r '^

.'if',"' :■,,

jflj^H

'^(!iiB

'i '

J / ^

■ill

/If" ■

.1!

146

»777.
F«bruary.

A VOYAGE TO

veins of coarfe quartz, which commonly follow the direc-
tion of the other ; though they fometimes interfe<n: it.
The mould, or foil, which covers this, is alfo of a yellowifli
caft, not unlike marl ; and is commonly from a foot to two,
or more, in thick nefs.

The quality of this foil is beft indicated by the luxu-
riant growth of its produ(fl:ions. For the hills (except
a few toward the fea, which are covered with fm?ller
buflies) are one continued foreft of lofty trees, flourifliing
wkh a \igo\ir almoft fuperior to any thing that imagina-
tion can conceive, and affording an auguft profpe6l to thofe
who are delighted with the grand and beautiful works of
nature.

The agreeable temperature of the climate, no doubt,
contributes much to this uncommon ftrength in vegetation.
For, at this time, though anfwering to our month of Au-
guft, the weather was never difagreeably warm ; nor did
it raife the thermometer higher than 66°. The winter,
alfo, feems equally mild with refjpedl to cold : for in June
1773, which correfponds to our December, the mercury
never fell lower than 48° ; and the trees, at that time, re-
tained their verdure, as if in the Summer feafon ; fo that,
I believe, their foliage is never llied, tiU pulhed off by the
fucceeding leaves in fpring.

The weather, in general, is good ; but fometimes windy,
with heavy rain \ which, however, never lafts above a day ;
ror docs it appear that it is ever exceflive. For there are
no marks of torrents rufliing down the hills, as in many
countries ; and the brooks, if we may judge from their
ciiannels, feem never to be greatly increafed. I have ob-
ferved, in the four different times of my being here, that
the winds from the South Eaitward are commonly mode-
rate,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

rate, but attended with cloudy weather, or rain. The South
Weft winds blow very ftrong, and are alfo attended with
rain ; but they feldom laft long. The North Weft winds are
the moft prevailing ; and though often pretty ftrong, are
almoft conftantly conne6led with fine weather. In fliort,
the only obllacle to this being one of tlie fiaeft coun-
tries upon earth, is its great hillinefs; which, allowing
the woods to be cleared away, would leave it lefs proper
for pafturage than flat land ; and ftill more improper for
cultivation, which could never be effected here by the
plough.

The large trees which cover the hills are chiefly of two
forts. One of them, of the fize of our largeft firs, grows
much after their manner ; but the leaves, and fmall ber-
ries on their points, are much liker the yew. It was
this which fupplied the place of fpruce in making beei •
which we did with a ftrong decod:ion of its leaves, fer-
mented with treacle or fugar. And this liquor, when well
prepared, was acknowledged to be little inferior to the
American fpruce beer, by thole who had experience of
both. The other fort of tree is not uniike a maple ; and
grows often to a great fize ; but it only /efved for fuel, as
the wood, both of this and of the preceding, vvas found to
be rather too heavy for maft«, yards, and (jt^Uit fi^Jfi^-'/ < e-
pairs.

There is a greater variety of trees on the fmuU flat fjiots
behind the beaches. Amongft thefe are two that bear a
kind of plum of the fize of prunes ; the one yellow, called
karraca ; and the other black, called maitao ; but neither of
them of a very agreeable tafte ; tlK)».»gh the natives eat
both, and our people did the fame. Th<'id'e of the firft fort
grow on fmall trees, always facing the fea ; but the others

U 2 belong

147

«777-
February.

t0^

f> If

i I

•? -i

148

>777-
February.

A VOYAGE TO

belong to larger trees that ftand farther within the wood,
and which we frequently cut down for fuel.

A fpecies of Pbiladelpbus grows on the eminences which
jut out into the fea ; and alfo a tree bearing flowers almoft
like myrtle, with roundifh fpotted leaves of a difagreeable
fmell. We drank, the leaves of the Pbiladelpbus as tea ; and
found that they had a pleafant tafte and fmell, and might
make an excellent fubftitute for the oriental fort *.

Among other plants that were ufeful to us, may be
reckoned wild celery, which grows plentifully in almoft
every cove ; efpecially if the natives have ever refuleti there
before ; and one that we ufed to call fcurvy-grafs, though
or.tirely different from the plant to which we give that
name. This, however, is far preferable to ours for com-
n ufe; and may be known by its jagged leaves, and
irnall clufters of white flowers on the top. Both fjrts were
boiled every morning, with wheat ground in a mill, and
with ix)rtable foup, for the people's breakfaft ; and alfo
amongft their peafe-foup, for dinner. Sometimes they
were ufed as fallad, or dreffed as greens. In all which ways
they are good ; and, together with the filh, with which we
were conllantly fupplied, they formed a fort of refrefhment,
perhaps little inferior to what is to be met with in places
moft noted by navigators for plentiful fupplies of animal
and vegetable food.

Amongfl the known kinds of plants met with here, are
common and rough bindweed ; night-fliade and nettles, both
which grow to the fize of fmall trees ; a flirubby fpeedwell,
found near all the beaches ; ibw-thiftles, virgin's bower,

* See a reprefentation of this, Plate N* XXII. in Captain Cook's Jccount of his Second
Voyage^ V<4. i. p. loO.

vanelloe,

•"^^^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, and crane's-bill : alfo
cudweed, ruflies, bull-rufties, flax, all-heal, American
nightlhade, knot-grafs, brambles, eye-bright, and ground-
fel ; but the /pedes of each are different from any we have
in Europe. There is alfo polypody, fpleenwort, and about
twenty other different fort of ferns, entirely peculiar to the
place ; with feveral forts of moffes, either rare, or produced
only here ; bef '«s a great number of other plants, whofe
ufes are not yet nown, and fubje(5ls fit only for botanical
books.

Of thefe, however, there is one which deferves particu-
lar notice here, as the natives make their garments of it,
and it produces a fine filky flax, fuperior in appearance to
any thing we have ; and probably, at leait, as ftrong. It
grows every where near the fea, and in fome places a
confiderable way up the hills, in bunches or tufts, with
fedge-like leaves, bearing, on a long ftalk, yellowifh
flowers, which are fucceeded by a long roundifh pod, fill-
ed with very thin fhining black feeds. A fpecies of long
pepper is found in great plenty ; but it has little of the
aromatic flavour that makes fpices valuable ; and a tree
much like a palm at a diftance, is pretty frequent in the
woods, though the deceit appears as you come near it. It
is remarkable that, as the greatcft part of the trees and
plants had, at this time, loft their flowers, we jierceived
they were generally of the berry-bearing kind ; of which,
and other feeds, I brought away about thirty different forts.
Of thefe, one in particular, which bears a red berry, is
much like the fupple-jack, and grows about the trees,
ftretching from one to another, in fuch a manner as to ren-
der the woods almoft wholly impafTable.

The birds, of which there is a tolerable flock, as well as

the

149

1777-
Februtry.

■ I

ilJ

,1 J

iio

'777-
Febiuar}'.

A VOYAGE TO

the vegetable produdions, are almoft entirely peculiar to
the place. And though it be difficult to follow them, on
account of the quantity of vmdervvood, and the climbing
plants, that render travelling, for pleafure alone, uncom-
monly fatiguing, yet a perfon, by remaining in one place,
may flioot as many in a day as would ferve iix or eight
others. The principal forts are, large brown parrots, with
white or greyilli heads ; green parroqucts, with red fore-
heads ; large wood pigeons, brown above, with white bel-
lies, the reil green, and the bill and feet red. Two Ibrts of
cuckoos, one as large as our common fort, of a brown co-
lour, variegated with black ; the other not larger than a
fparrow, of a fplendid green call above, and elegantly va-
ried with waves of golden, green, brown, and white colours
below. Both thefe are fcarce ; but feveral others are in
greater plenty ; one of which, of a black colour, with a
grcenifli caft, is remarkable for having a tuft of w^ite
curled feathers hanging under the throat, and was called
the Poy bird ••• by our people. Another fort, rather fmaller,
is black, with a brown back and wings, and two fmall gills
under the root of the bill. This we called the fmall wattle
bird, to dirtinguifli it from another, which we called the
large one, of the fize of a common pigeon, with two large
yellow and purple membranes alfo, at the root of the bill.
It is black, or rather blue, and has no refemblance of the
other but in name ; for the bill is thick, lliort, and crooked,
and has all together an uncommon appearance. A grofs-
beak, about the fize of a thrulh, ot a brow n colour, \n ith a
reddilh tail, is frequent ; as is alio a fmall greenilli bird,

* Sec a drawing of this bird, P/nh N' LH^. in CnptM* Co<ik\ Account of his Second
Voyage^ Vol. i. p. 97. It had this name from its tuft of feathers, refembling the while
flowers ufed as ornaments in the ears at Otaheite, and called there Poowa.

wliich

.■A
I

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

151

which is almoft the only mufical one here, but is fufficient
hy itfelf to fill the woods with a melody, that is not only
fweet, but fo vari :'. that one would imagine he was fur-
rounded by a hund: id different fortb of birds, when the lit-
tle warblei Is near. From this circumftance we named it
the mocking bird. There are like wife three or four forts
of fmaller birds ; one of which, in figure and tamenefs, ex-
adlly refembles our robin, but is black where that is brown,
and white where that is red. A::otli' " differs but little from
this, except in being fmaller ; and a chird fort has a long
tail, which it expands as a fan on coming near, and makes
a chirpiP"- noife when it yjrd.js. King-fifliers are feen,
thoi'.'h rare, and are about the fze of our Englifh ones,
but i'. ith an inferior plumage.

About the rocks are feen black fea-pies with red bills ;
and crefled fhags of a leaden colour, with fmall black fpots
on the wings and fhoulders, and the refl of the upper part
of a velvet black tinged with green. We frequently Ihot
both thefe, and alfo a more common fort of lliags, black
above and white underneath; that build their nefts upon
trees, on which fometimes a dozen or more fit at once.
There are alfo, about the fliore, a few fea-guUs ; fome blue
herons ; and fometimes, thoiigh very rarely, wild ducks ;
a fmall fandy-coloured plover, a. nI ome fand larks. And
fmall penguins black above, with ^ v/hite belly, as well
as numbers of kittle black diver , fwim often about the
Soimd. We like wife killed two or three rails of a brown
or yellowifh colour, variegated with black, which feed
about the fmall brooks, and are nearly as large a^ a com-
mon fowl. No other fort of game was feen, except a fingle
fnipe, which was Hiot, and differ^ but little from that of
Europe.

The

February.

1 1

PI 'I

. m.»'

i-:?1

■'/

A5-i

<777.
February.

A VOYAGE TO

The principal fifli we caught by the fcine were m\ill/*ts
and elephant fi(h, with a few foles and flounders ; but r > tk-
that the natives moiUy fupplied us with, were a fort ot fea-
bream of a fdver colour with a black fix>t on the neck,
large conger eels, and a fifli in fliape much like the bream,
but fo large as to weigh five, fix, or feven pounds. It is
blackifh with thick lips, and called Mogge by the natives.
With hook and line we caught chiefly a blackifli fifti of the
fize of a haddock, called colc-fifli by the feamen, but dif-
fering much from that known by the fiime name in Eu-
rope ; and another of the fame fize, of a reddifli colour with
a little beard, which we called night walkers, from the
greateft number being caught in the night. Sometimes we
got a fort of fmall falmon, gurnards, fkatc, and nurfes ; and
the natives, now and then, brought hake, paracutas, a fmall
fort of mackerel, parrot-fifli, and leather-jackets ; beiides
another fifli which is very rare, fliaped almoft like a dol-
phin, of a black colour, with ftrong bony jaws, and the
back-fin, as well "iS tb.ofe oppofite to it, much lengthened
at the end. All ?h.;il forts, except the laft, which we did
not try, are excviiont to eat ; but the Mogge, fmall falmon,
and cole-fifli are fupcrior to the reft.

The rocks are abundantly furniflied with great quanti-
ties of excellent mufcles ; one fort of which, that is not very
common, meafures above a foot in length. There are alio
cockles buried in the fand of the Imall beaches; and in
fome places oyfters, which, though very fmall, arc well
tafted. Of other fliell-fifli there are ten or twelve forts,
fuch as periwincklcs, wilks, limpets, and fome very beau-
tifid fea-ears ; alfo another fort which ftick to the weeds ;
with fome other things, as fea-cggs, rtar-fifli, &c. feveral of
whicli are peculiar to the j)lac e. The natives likewife fomc-
3 times

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

153

uitoc ; for vvc fo\ind
of fmall harmlcfs

times brought us very fine cray-filh, equal to our largeft
lobrtcrs, and cuttle fifli, which they cat thcnifelves.

Infeds are very rare. Of thefe, vvc only faw two forts
of dragon-flies, fome butterflies, fmall grafliopi>ers, feveral
forts of fpidcrs, fome fmall black, ants, and valt numbers
of fcorpion flies, with whofe cliirpl 'g the woods refound.
The only noxious one is the far '-t , very numerous here,
and almoft as troublefome as t
no reptile here, except two 01
lizards "**.

It is remarkable, that, in this exiculi . e land, there fliould
not even be the traces of any quadruped, only excepting a
few rats, and a fort of fox-dog, which is a domeftic animal
with the natives.

Neither is there any mineral worth notice, but a green
jafper or ferpent-ftone, of which the New Zealanders make
their tools and ornaments. This is efteemed a precious
articl<^ by them ; and they have fome fuperilitious notions
about the method of its generation, which we could not
perfe<5tly underftand. It is plain, however, that wherever
it may be found (which, they fay, is in the channel of a
large river far to the So\ithward), it is difpofed in the earth
in thin layers, or, perhaps, in detached pieces, like our
flints ; for the edges of thofe pieces, which have not been
cut, are covered with a whitifh cruft like thefe. A piece of
this fort was purchafed, about eighteen inches long, a foot
broatl, and near two inches thick ; which yet feemed to be
only the fragment of a larger piece.

The natives do not exceed the common ftature of Euro-

February.

• In a feparate memorandum-book, Mr. Anderfon mentions the monftrous animal of
the lizard kind, defcribed by the two boys after they left the ifland.

Vol. I. X peans ;

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

11.25

1^ 12.2

L± 11.6

4V^

';'

Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 873-4503

•^

i^^
^

c,\

■; I

("in

154

»777-
February.

A VOYAGE TO

peans ; and, in general, are not fo well made, efpecially
about the limbs. This is, perhaps, the efFe<£l of fitting,
for the moft part, on their hams ; and of being confined,
by the hilly difpofition of the country, from ufing that
fort of exercife which contributes to render the body
ftraight and well-proportioned. There are, however, feve-
ral exceptions to this ; and fome are remarkable for their
large bones and mufcles ; but few that I have feen are cor-
pulent.

Their colour is of different calls, from a pretty deep black
to a yellowilh or olive tinge ; and their features alfo are
various, fome refembling Europeans. But, in general, their
faces are round, with their lips full, and alfo their nofes
toward the point ; though the firft are not uncommonly
thick, nor the laft flat. I do not, however, recolledl to
have feen an inftance of the true aquiline nofe amongft
them. Their teeth are commonly broad, white, and well
fet ; and their eyes large, with a very free motion, which
feems the effedt of habit. Their hair is black, ftraight,
and ftrong, commonly cut Ihort on the hind part, with the
reft tied on the crown of the head : but fome have it of a
curling difpofition, or of a brown colour. In the young,
the countenance is generaUyfree or open ; but in many of
the men it has a ferious caft, and fometimes a fuUennefs or
referve, efpecially if they are ftrangers. The women are,
in general, fmaller than the men ; but have few peculiar
graces, either in form or features, to diftinguifli them.

The drefs of both fexes is alike ; and confifts of an ob-
long garment about five feet long, and four broad, made
from the filky flax already mentioned. This feems to be
their moft material and complex manufaiSlure, which is
executed by knotting ; and their work is often ornamented

with

f .

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

with pieces of dog-lkin, or chequered at the corners.
They bring two corners of this garment over the flioulders,
and fatten it on the breaft with the other part, which co-
vers the body ; and about the belly, it is again tied with a
girdle made of mat. Sometimes they cover it with large
feathers of birds (which feem to be wrought into the piece
of cloth when it is made), or with dog-fkin ; and that
alone we have feen worn as a covering. Over this gar-
ment many of them wear mats, which reach from the
ihoulders to near the heels. But the moft common outer-
covering is a quantity of the above fedgy plant, badly
dreffed, which they fatten on a ftring to a confiderable
length, and, throwing it about the Ihoulders, let it fall
down on all fides, as far as the middle of the thighs. When
they lit down with this upon them, either in their boats,
or upon the Ihore, it would be difficult to diftinguilh them
from large grey ftones, if their black heads, projecting be-
yond their coverings, did not engage one to a ttridler exa-
mination.

By way of ornament, they fix in their heads feathers, or
combs of bone, or wood, adorned with pearl fhell, or the
thin inner fkin of fome leaf. And in the ears, both of
men and women, which are pierced, or rather flit, are
hung fpiall pieces of jafper, bits of cloth, or beads when
they can get them. A few alfo have the feptum of the
nofe bored in its lower part ; but no ornament was worn
there that we faw ; though one man pafTed a twig through
it, to Ihew us that it was fometimes ufed for that pur-
pofe. They wear long beards, but are fond of having them
fhaved.

Some are puncSlured or ttained in the face with curious
fpiral and other figures, of a black or deep blue colour ;

X 2 but

155

«777-
February.

1;''l

liii

156

A VOYAGE TO

«777-
February.

' n

but it is doubtful whether this be ornamental, or intended
as a mark of particular diftin6tion ; and the women, who
are marked fo, have the pundlure only on their lips, or a
fmall fi>ot on their chins. Both fexes often befmear their
faces and heads with a red paint, which feems to be
a martial ochre mixed with greafe ; and 'he women
fometimes wear necklaces of fhark's teeth, or bunches
of long beads, which feem to be made of the leg-bones
of fmall birds, or a particular Ihell. A few alfo have
fmall triangular aprons adorned with the feathers of par-
rots, or bits of pearl fhells, fumilhed with a double or treble
fet of cords to fatten them about the waift. I have fome-
times feen caps or bonnets made of the feathers of birds,
which may be reckoned as ornaments ; for it is not their
cuftom to wear any covering on their heads.

They live in the fmall coves formerly defcribed, in com-
panies of forty or fifty, or more ; and fometimes in fingle
families, building their huts contiguous to each other;
which, in general, are miferable lodging-places. The beft
I ever faw was about thirty feet long, fifteen broad, and fix
high, built exa(£lly in the manner of one of our country
barns. The infide was both ftrong and regularly made of
fupporters at the fides, alternately large and fmall, well
faftened by means of withes, and painted red and black.
The ridge pole was ftrong ; and the large bull-ruflies,
which compofed the inner part of the thatching, were laid
with great exaflnefs parallel to each other. At one end
was a fmall fquare hole, which fcrved as a door to ci cep in
at ; and near it another much fmaller, feemingly for let-
ting out the fmoke, as no other vent for it could be feen.
This, however, ought to be confidered as one of the beft,
and the refidencc of Ibme principal perfon ; for the greatert

part

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

157

part of them are not half the above fize, and feldom exceed
four feet in height; being, befides, indifferently built,
though proof againft wind and rain.

No other furniture is to be feen in them, than a few
fmall balkets or bags, in which they put their filhing-
hooks, and other trifles ; and they lit down in the
middle round a fmall fire, where they alfo probably fleep^
without any other covering than what they wear in the
day, or perhaps without that; as fuch confined place»
pauft be very warm, though inhabited but by a few
perfons.

They live chiefly by fifhing, making ufe either of net&
of diflerent kinds, or of wooden fifti-hooks pointed with
bone ; but fo oddly made, that a ftranger is at a lofs to
know how they can anfwer fuch a purpofe. It alfo ap-
pears, that they remove^ their habitations from one place
to another when the fifh grow fcarce, or for fome other
reafon ; for we found houfes now built in feveral parts,
where there had been none when we were here during our
laft voyage, and even thefe have been already deferted.

Their boats are well bi^ilt, of planks raifed upon each
other, and fattened with fl:rong withef , which alfo bind
a long narrow piece on the outfide of the feams to pre-
vent their leaking. Some are fifty feet long, and fo broad
as to be able to fail without an outrigger ; but the fmaller
fort commonly have one ; and they often fuflen two toge-
ther by rafters, which we then call a double canoe. They
carry from five to thirty men or more ; and have often a
large head ingenioufly carved, and painted with a figure
at the point, Avhich feems intended to reprefent a man,
with his features diftorted by rage. Their paddles are
about four or five feet long, narrow, and pointed ; with

which;,

February.

iri

flfEli*'''!'^

li^a im

:: m

158

1777-
February.

A VOYAGE TO

which, when they keep time, the boat is puflied along
pretty fwiftly. Their fail, which is feldom ufed, is made
of a mat of a triangular fliape, having the broadeft
part above.

The only method of drefling their filh, is by roaftingy
or rather baking ; for they are intirely ignorant of the art
of boiling. In the fame manner they drefs the root, and
part of the llalk, of the large fern-tree, in a great hole dug
for that purpofe, which ferves as an oven. After which
they fplit it, and find, within, a fine gelatinous fubftance,
like boiled fago powder, but firmer. They alfo ufe another
fmaller fern root, which feems to be their fubftitute for
bread, as it is dried and carried about with them, together
with dried fifh in great quantities, when they remove their
families, or go far from home. This they beat with a ftick
tin it becomes pretty foft, when they chew it fufficiently,
and fpit out the hard fibrous part, the other having a
fweetilh mealy tafl:e not at all difagreeable.

When they dare not venture to fea, or perhaps from
choice, they fupply the place of other fifli with mufcles
and fea-ears ; great quantities of the Ihells of which lie in
heaps near their houfes. And they fometimes, though
rarely, find means to kill rails, penguins, and fhags, which
help to vary their diet. They alfo breed confiderable num-
bers of the dogs, mentioned before, for food ; but thefe
cannot be confidered as a principal article of diet. From
whence we may conclude, that, as there is not the leaft
fign of cultivation of land, they depend principally for their
fubfiftence on the fea, which, indeed, is very bountiful in
its fupply.

Their method of feeding correfponds with the naftinefs
of their perfons, which often fmell difagreeably from the

quantity

' !'J

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

quantity of greafe about them, and their clothes never be-
ing waflied. We have feen them eat the vermin, witli
which their heads are fufficiently flocked.

They alfo ufed to devour, with the greateft eagemefs^
large quantities of {linking train oil, and blubber of feals,
which we were melting at the tent, and had kept near two
months ; and, on board the Ihips, they were not fatisfied
with emptying the lamps, but a<5tually fwallowed the cot-
ton, and fragrant wick, with equal voracity. It is worthy
of notice, that though the inhabitants of Van Diemen's
land appear to have bat a fcanty fubfiftence, they would
not even tafte our bread, though they faw us eat it ; where-
as thefe people devoured it greedily, when both mouldy
and rotten. But this muft not be imputed to any defeat in
their fenfations ; for I have obferved them throw away
things which we eat, with evident difguft, after only fmell-
ing to them.

They Ihew as much ingenuity, both in invention and
execution, as any uncivilized nations under fimilar cir-
cumftances. For, without the ufe of any metal tools,
they make every thing by which they procure their fub-
iiftence, clothing, and warlike weapons, with a degree of
neatnefs, ftrength, and convenience for accomplilhing their
feveral purpofes. Their chief mechanical tool is formed
exa<Slly after the manner of our adzes ; and is made, as are
alfo the chiffel and goudge, of the green ferpent-ftone or
jafper, already mentioned; though fometimes they are
compofed of a black, fmooth, and very folid ftone. But
their mafter-piece feems to be carving, which is found
upon the moft trifling things ; and, in particular, the heads
of their canoes are fometimes ornamented with it in fuch
a manner, as not only Ihews much defign, but is alfo an

example

159

Februny.

,1 ' Kl

i Til

" tn

^r' '

> < 'J

r ■Jj'lj^

■I i

if' lli? ! '

H:'l?

1 •!

ibiilil ['

i6o

'77r-

Fehruary.

lii-.

A VOYAGE TO

example of their great labour and patience in execution.
Their cordage for fifhing-lines is equal, in ftrength and
evennefs, to that made by us ; and tht ir nets not at all in-
ferior. But what muft coft them more labour than any
other article, is the making the tools we hrxve mentioned ;
for the ftone is exceedingly hard, and the 'aiy method of
falhioning it, we can guefs at, is by rubbing one ftone upon
another, which can have but a How efFe6l. Their fubftitute
for a knife is a (hell, a bit of flint, or jafper. And, as an
auger, to bore holes, they fix a fhark's tooth in the end of a
fmall piece of wood. It is true, they have a fmall faw made
of fome jagged fifhes teeth, fixed on the convex edge of a
piece of wood nicely carved. But this, they fay, is only
ufed to cut up the bodies of their enemies whom they kill
in battle.

No people can have a quicker fenfe of an injury done to
them, and none are more ready to refent it. But, at the fame
time, they will take an opportunity of being infolent when
they think there is no danger of punifhment ; which is fo
contrary to the fpirit of genuine bravery, that, perhaps,
their eagernefs to refent injuries is to be looked upon rather
as an effedt of a furious difpofition than of great courage.
They alfo appear to be of a fufpicious or miftruftful temper
(which, however, may rather be acquired than natural), for
ftrangers never came to our Ihips immediately, but lay in
their boats at a fmall diftance, either to obferve our motions,
or confuh whether or no they fhould rifk their fafety with
us. To this they join a great degree of dilhonefty ; for
they fteal every thing they can lay their hands on, if there
be the leaft hope of not being detedted ; and, in trading, I
have little doubt but they would take advantages, if they
thought it could be done with fafety ; as they not only refufe

Sl "i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

i6i

to tnift a thing in one's hand for examination, but exult if
they think they have tricked you in the bargain.

Such condudt, however, is, in fome meafure, to be ex-
pedled where there appears to be but little fvibordination,
and confequently few, if any, laws, to punifli tranfgref-
fions. For no man's authority feems to extend farther
than his own family ; and when, at any time, they join for
mutual defence, or any other purpofe, thofe amongft them
who are eminent for courage or prudence, are directors.
How their private quarrels are terminated is uncertain;
but, in the few we faw, which were of little confequence,
the parties con^ierned were clamorous and diforderly.

Their public contentions are frequent, or rather perpe-
tual ; for it appears, from their number of weapons, and
dexterity in ufing them, that war is their principal pro-
feflion. Thefe weapons are fpears, patoos and halberts, or
fometimes ftones. The firft are made of hard wood point-
ed, of different lengths, from five, to twenty, or even thirty
feet long. The Ihort ones are ufed for throwing as darts.
The patoo or emeete is of an elliptical Ihape, about eighteen
inches long, with a handle made of wood, ftone, the bone
' of fome fea animal, or green jafper, and feems to be their
principal dependence in battle. The halbert, or long club,
is about five or fix feet long, tapering at one end with a
carved head, and at the other, broad or flat, with fliarp
edges.

Before they begin the onfet, they join in a war-fong, to
Avhich they all keep the exadteft time, and foon raife their
paflion to a degree of frantic fury, attended with the moft
horrid diftortion of their eyes, mouths, and tongues, to
ftrike terror into their enemies ; which, to thofe who have
not been accuftomed to fuch a pra<5tice, makes them ap-
VoL. I. * Y p?ar

>777-
Febrimry.

N 'i:«

■ '11

'.:a

' -m

■1

Wff w-'

III

162

A VOYAGE TO

1777-
February.

Ir- I

pear more like demons than men, and woiUd almoft chill
the boldelt with fear. To this fucceeds a circumftance) al-
moft foretold in their fierce demeanof) horrid, cruel, and
dilgraceful to hviman nature ; which is, cutting in pieces,
even before being perfedlly dead, the bodies of their ene-
mies, and, after dreliing them on a fire, devouring the
fieih, not only without reluctance, but with peculiar fatif-
f action.

One might be apt to fuppofe, that people, capable of
fuch excefs of cruelty, muft be deftitute of every humane
feeling, even amongft their own party. And yet we find
them lamenting the lofs of their friends, with a violence
of expreffion which argues the moft tender remembrance of
them. For both men and women, upon the death of thofe
conne<Sted with them, whether in battle or otherwife, be-
wail them with the moft doleful cries ; at the fame time
cutting their foreheads and cheeks, with ftiells or pieces of
flint, in large gafhes, until the blood flows plentifully and
mixes with their tears. They alfo carve pieces of their
green ftone, rudely ftiaped, as human figures, which they
ornament with bright eyes of pearl-fliell, and hang them
about their necks, as memorials of thofe whom they held
moft dear ; and their afJeftions of this kind are fo llrong,
that they even perform the ceremony of cutting, and la-
menting for joy, at the return of any of their friends, who
have been abfent but for a Ihort time.

The children are initiated, at a very early age, into all
the practices, good or bad, of their fathers ; fo that you
find a boy or girl, nine or ten years old, able to perform all
the motions, and to imitate the frightful geftures, by which
the more aged ufe to infpire their enemi' s with terror,
keeping the ftridteft time in their fong. They likewife

fing,

1-^

•''■;;

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fing, with fome degree of melody, the traditions of their
forefathers, their a<5tions in war, and other indifferent fub-
jedts ; of all which they are immoderately fond, and fpend
much of their time, in thefe amufements, and in playing
on a fort of flute.

Their language is far from being harlh or difagreeable,
though the pronunciation is frequently guttviral; and what-
ever qualities are requifite in any other language to make
it mufical, certainly obtain to a confiderable degree here,
if we may judge from the melody of fome forts of their
fongs. It is alfo fufficiently comprehenfive, though, in
many refpedls, deficient, if compared with our European
languages, which owe their perfe«Slion to long improve-
ment. But a fmall fpecimen is here fubjoined, from which
fome judgment may be formed. I colle(Sted a great many
of their words, both now and in the courfe of our former
voyage ; and being equally attentive, in my inquiries, about
the languages of the other iilands throughout the South
Sea, I have the ampleft proof of their wonderful agreement!
or rather identity. This general obfervation has, indeed,
been already made in the accounts of the former voyages ^^
I fnall be enabled, however, to confirm and ftrengthen it,
by a frelh lift of words, feledted from a large vocabulary
in my pofleflion ; and by placing, in the oppofite column,
the correfponding words as ufed at Otaheite, the curious
reader will, at one view, be furniflied with fufficient mate-
rials for judging by what fubordinate changes the diflfer-
ence of dialedl has been efFedted.

* See Hawkefworth's CoUeftion, Vol. iii. p. 474, 475, and Captain Cook's Voyage,
Vol. ii. p. 364.

Y 2 Englifli

163

«777-
February.

4 !'■;•

'1 ' i.

' ■ ' if

y-'

^%"

t'"-'l

* t ;:•

i<f '.?■

164

1777-
February.

A VOYAGE TO

Englilh.

Ne^v Zealand.

Qtabeiti

fi^ater^

•'^(- Ewy,

Evy.

A tail of a dogi

' ..'' Wyeroo,

Ero.

Deaths dead^

Kaoo, matte,

Matte, roa.

rofty.

Ererre,

Eraire.

Aboufey ' '■•

' '"■ Ewharre,

Ewharre.

Tojleep^

' '• ' Moca, i

Moe.

AJi/b-booki

" Makoee,

Matou.

Sbuty

Opanee,

Opanee. ■

Abed,

' f Moenga, '

Moera.

A butterfly, ' '

i ' Epaipe,

Pepe.

To cbew, or eat.

• ■ '! Hekaee,

Ey.

Co/dy

Makkarcecle,

Mareede.

To-dayy

Agooanai,

Aooanai.

The bandy

Reenga,

Ereema.

Large,

Keeerahoi,

Erahoi.

Redy

Whairo,

Oora, oora.

We,

Taooa,

Taooa.

fi^ere is it?

Kahaia,

Tehaia.

Aftoney

Powhy,

Owhy.

A marly

Tangata,

Taata,

Blacky

Purra, purra.

Ere, ere.

JVbite,

Ema,

Ooama.

To reflde, or diioeliy

Nohoanna,.

Nohonoa.

Out, not witbiHy

Woho,

Woho.

Male kind (of any animal), Toa,

Etoa.

Fetnaky

Eoowha,

Eooha.

AJbarky

Mango,

Mao.

To underftandy

Geetaia,

Eetea.

Forgoty

Warre,

Ooaro.

Teflerdayy

Taeninnahoi,

Ninnahoi.

One,

Tahaee,

Atahay.

w^ r

'■■' i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

Englilh.

Four,

Five,

SiXy

Seven,
Eight,
Nine,
Ten,

The New Zcalanders to thefe numerals prefix Ma ; as,

Eleven, Matahee.

Twelve, 8cc. 8cc, Marooa, &c. &c.

Twenty, Mangahoora.

New Zealand,

Otabeite.

Rooa,

Erooa.

Toroo,

Toroo.

Faa,

Ahaa.

Reema,

Ereema.

Ono,

Aono.

Heetoo,

Aheitoo.

Waroo,

Awaroo.

Eeva,

Aeeva.

Angahoora,

Ahooroo.

1^5

• 777-
February.

(! -'df

5 ' ■>'

; ,'|

fjj

^^m

' 'jg

■|i

1 '"

Tt,i;f :

'I '. ■ I

■ >

TO THE

PACIFIC OCEAN.

VOYAGE

.■■:i

B O O K II.

FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR ARRIVAL AT
OTAHEITE, OR THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.

CHAP. I.

Profecution of the Voyage. — Behaviour of the Two New Zea-
landers on board. — Unfavourable Winds. — An I/land called
Mangeea difco'vered. — The Coaji of it examined.~—Tranf'
anions with the Natives. — An Account of their Perfonsy
Drefs, and Canoe. — Defcription of the IJland. — A Specimen
of the Language. — Difpofstion of the Inhabitants.

ON the 25th, at ten o'clock in the morning, a light 1777.
breeze fpringing up at North Weft by Weft, we Jij!^
weighed, ftoocl out of the Sound, and made fliil Tuefday25.
through the ftrait, with the Difcovery in company. We had
hardly got the length of Cape Teerawittc, when the wind
took us aback at South Eaft. It continued in this quarter till
I two

^■■m

'!' '11

Pi ' .

i68

A VOYAGE TO

ill ^

>777-
February,

^^"Oi

two o'clock the next morning, when we had a few hours
calm. After which we had a breeze at North ; bvit here it
wednef. 26. fixed not long, before it veered to the Eaft, and after that to
Thurfdayz;. the South. At length, on the 27th, at eight o'clock, in the
morning, we took our departure from Cape Pallifer, which,
at this time, bore Weft, feven or eight leagvies diftant. We
had a fine gale, and I fleered Eaft by North.

We had no fooner loft fight of the land than our two
New Zealand adventurers, the fea ficknefs they now exjie-
rienced giving a turn to their refle(£lions, rej^ented heartily
of the ftep they had taken. All the foothing encourage-
ment we could think of, availed but little. They wept,
both in public and in private, and made their lamentations
in a kind of fong, which, as far as we could comprehend
the meaning of the words, was expreflive of their praifes
of their country and people, from which they were to be
feparated for ever. Thus they continued for many days,
tin their fea ficknefs wore off, and the tumult of their
minds began to fubfide. Then thefe fits of lamentation
became lefs and lefs frequent, and at length entirely ceafed.
Their native country and their friends were, by degrees,
forgot, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to us, as
if they had been born amongft us.

The wind had not remained many hours at South, before
it veered to South Eaft and Eaft ; and, with this, we ftood to
Friday 28. the North, till the 28th at noon. Being then in the latitude
of 41° 17', and in the longitude of 177° 17' Eaft, we tacked
and ftood to the South Eaft, m ith a gentle breeze at Eaft
North Eaft. It afterward frefliened, and came about to
North Eaft ; in which quarter it continued two days, and
fbmetimes blew a frefh ^ale wnh fqualls, accompanied with

fhowers of rain.

Si •■!•■

:f.

:S i

THE P A M F I C OCEAN.

169

«777-
March.

On the 2d of Marc . at noon, being in the latitude of
42° 35' 30'', longitude 180° 8' Eaft, the wind Ihifted to North
Weft; afterward to South. Weft; and between this point Sundays.
and North it continued to blow, fometimes a ftrong gale
with hard Iqualls, and at other times very moderate. With
this wind we fteered North Eaft by Eaft and Eaft, under
all tlie fail we could carry, till the nth at noon, at which Tuefday u.
time we were in the latitude of 39° 29', longitude 196" 4'
Eaft.

The wind now veered to North Eaft and South Eaft, and
I ftood to the North, and to the North Eaft, as the wind
would admit, till one o'clock in the morning on the i6th, Sunday 16.
when having a more favourable gale from the North, I
tacked and ftood to the Eaft ; the latitude being 33° 40', and
the longitude 198° 50' Eaft. We had light airs and calms
by turns, till noon the next day, when the wind began to Monday 17.
freftien at Eaft South Eaft, and 1 again ftood to the North
Eaft. But as the wind often veered to Eaft and Eaft North
Eaft, we frequently made no better than a northerly courfe ;
nay fometimes to the Weftward of North. But the hopes
of the wind coming more Southerly, or of meeting with it
from the Weftward, a little without the Tropic, as I had
experienced in my former viftts to this ocean, encouraged
me to continue this courfe. Indeed it was neceffary that I
Ihould run all rifks, as my proceeding to the North this
year, in profecution of the principal obje<Sl of the voyage,
depended entirely on my making a quick paflage to Ota-
heite, or the Society I Hands,

The wind continued invariably fixed at Eaft South Eaft,
or feldom fliifting above two points on either fide. It alfo
blew very faint, fo that it was the 27th before we crofted Thiwfday 2;
the Tropic, and then we we;.e only in the longitude of

Vol. I. Z ' 20t'

• ■■".31

I 1

It f;i

N'-,-

■Cn ;

fiff

170

A VOYAGE TO

1777-
March.

Saturday 29.

201° 23' Eaft, which was nine degrees to the Weftward of
our intended port, hi all this run we law nothing, except
now and then a Tropic bird, that could induce us to think
we had failed near any land. In the latitude of 34° 20',
longitude 199°, we pafled the trunk of a large tree, which
was covered with barnacles ; a fign that it had been long
at Tea.

On the 29th, at ten in the morning, as we were ftanding
to the North Eaft, the Difcovery made the fignal of feeing
land. We faw it from the maft-head almoft the fame mo-
ment, bearing North Eaft by Eaft by compafs. We foon
difcovered it to be an ifland of no great extent, and ftood
for it till funfet, when it bore North North Eaft, diftant
about two or three leagues.

The night was fpent in ftanding off and on, and at day-
Snnday 30. break the next morning, I bore up for the lee or Weft fide
of the illand, as neither anchorage nor landing appeared
to be pra(5ticable on the South fide, on account of a great
furf *, which broke every where with violence againft the
Ihore, or againft the reef that furrounded it.

We prefently found that the illand was inhabited, and
faw feveral people, on a point of the land we had pafled,
wading to the reef, where, as they found the fhip leaving
them quickly, they remained. But others, who foon ap-
peared in different parts, followed her courfe ; and fome-
times feveral of them collected into fmall bodies, who made
a Ihouting noife all together, nearly after the manner of
the inhabitants of New Zealand.

Between feven and eight o'clock, we were at the Weft
North Weft part of the ifland, and, being near the Ihore, we

* A very ingenious and fatisfa£lory account of the caufe of the furf, is to be met with
in Marfden's HiAory of Sunutra, p. 29. 32.

could

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

could perceive with our glafles, that feveral o^ the natives,
who appeared upon a fandy beach, were all armed with
long fpears and clubs, which they brandilhed in the air
with ligns of threatening, or, as fome on board interpreted
their attitudes, with invitations to land. Moll of them ap-
peared naked, except having a fort of girdle, which, being
brought up between the thighs, covered that part of the
body. But fome of them had pieces of cloth of different
colours, white, ftriped, or cheqviered, which they wore as
a garment, thrown about their Ihoulders. And almoft all
of them had a white wrapper about their heads, not much
unlike a -turban; or, in fome inftances, like a high conical
cap. We could alfo perceive that they were of a tawny
colour, and in general of a middling ftature, but robuft,
and inclining to corpulence.

At this time, a fmall canoe was launched in a great
hurry from the further end of the beach, and a man get-
ting into it, put off, as with a view to reach the fliip. On
perceiving this, I brought to, that we might receive the
vifit ; but the man's refolution failing, he foon returned
toward the beach, where, after fome time, another man
joined him in the canoe ; and then they both paddled to-
ward us. They ftopt Ihort, however, as if afraid to ap-
proach, until Omai, who addreffed them in the Otaheite
language, in fome meafure quieted their apprehenflons.
They then came near enough to take fome beads and nails,
which were tied to a piece of wood, and thrown into the
canoe. They feemed afraid to touch thefe things, and put
the piece of wood alide without untying them. This, how-
ever, might arife from fuperftition ; for Omai told us, that
when they faw us offering them prefents, they alked fome-
thing for their Eatooa, or god. He alfo, perhaps impro-

Z 2 perl)',

171

>777-
March.

't !■*

I id

.c- ■».'■

T72

A VOYAGE TO

' ■ hi

i s

: 'H

!■

f T'
I'*

>777-
March.

pciiy, put the qiieftion to them, Whether they ever eat
human flelh ? which they anfwered in the negative, with a
mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them,
whole name was Mourooa, being afked how he came by
a fear on his forehead, told us that it was the confequence
of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of an
iiland, which lies to the North Eaftward, who fometimes
came to invade them. They afterward took hold of a
rope. Still, however, they would not venture on board ;
but told Omai, who underftood them pretty well, that
their countrymen on Hiore had given them this caution,
at the fame time dire(Sling them to inquire, from whence
our Ihip came, and to learn the name of the Captain. On
our part, we inquired the name of the ifland, which they
called Mangya or Mangeea ; and fometimes added to it Nooey
nai, naiwa. The name of their Chief, they faid, was
Orooaeeka.

Mourooa was lufty and well made, but not very tall. His
features were agreeable, and his difpofition feemingly no
lefs fo; for he made feveral droll gcfticulations, which
indicated both good-nature and a lliare of humour. He
alfo made others which fecmed of a ferious kind, and re-
peated fomc words with a devout air, before he ventured to
lay hold of the rope at the fliip's ftern ; which was pro-
bably to recommend himfelf to the protection of fome Di-
vinity. His colour was nearly of the fame caft with that
common to the moft fouthern Europeans. The other man
was not fo handfome. Both of them had ftrong, ftraight
hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the
head with a bit of cloth. They wore fuch girdles as we
had perceived about thofe on Ihore, and we found they
were a fubftance made from the Morus papyrifera^ in the

fame

'ti,

aiJbt

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fame manner as at the other iilands of this, ocean. It was
glazed like the fort ufed by the natives of the Friendly
Iilands ; but the cloth on their heads was white, like that
which is found at Otaheite. They had on, a kind of fan-
dais, made of a grafly fubftance interwoven, which we alfo
obferved were worn by thofe who flood upon the beach ;
and, as we fuppofed, intended to defend their feet againil
the rough coral rock. Their beards were long ; and the
infide of their arms, from the llioulder to the elbow, and
fome other parts, were pundtured or tatooedf after the man-
ner of the inhabitants of almoft all the other iflands in the
South Sea. The lobe of their ears was pierced, or rather
flit, and to fuch a length, that one of them ftuck there a
knife and fome beads, which he had received from us ; and
the fame perfon had two poliflied pearl-fliells, and a bunch
of human hair, loofely twifled, hanging about his neck,
which was the only ornament we obferved. The canoe
they came in (which was the only one we faw), was not
above ten feet long, and very narrow ; but both ftrong and
neatly made. The forepart had a flat board fallened over
it, and proje<5ting out, to prevent the fea getting in on
plunging, like the fmall Evaas at Otaheite ; but it had an
upright flern, about five feet high, like fome in New Zea-
land ; and the upper end of this ftern-poft was forked.
The lower part of the canoe was of white wood ; but the
upper was black, and their paddles, made of wood of the
fame colour, not above three feet long, broad at one end,
and blunted. They paddled either end of the canoe for-
ward indifferently ; and only turned about their faces to
paddle the contrary way.

We now flood off and on ; and as foon as the fliips were
in a proper flation, about ten o'clock I ordered two boats,

one

173

«777.
March.

;.' I.

174

A VOYAGE TO

March.

5 ) I

ll'f.

•.mam

in--

one of them from the Difcovery, to found the coaft, and to
endeavour to find a landing-place. With this view, I went
in one of them myfelf, taking with me fuch articles to give
the natives, as I thought might ferve to gain their good-
will. I had no fooner put off from the Ihip, than the
canoe, with the two men, which had left ais not long be-
fore, paddled toward my boat ; and, having come along-
llde, Mourooa ftept into her, without being afked, and
without a moment's hefitation.

Omai, who was with me, was ordered to inquire of him,
where we could land ; and he dire<5led us to two different
places. But I faw, with regret, that the attempt could not
be made at either place, unlefs at the rifk. of having our
boats filled with water, or even ttaved to pieces. Nor were
we more fortunate in our fearch for anchorage ; for we
could find no bottom, till within a cable's length of the
breakers. There we met with from forty to twenty fa-
thoms depth, oVer fliarp coral rocks ; fo that anchoring
would have been attended with much more danger than
landing.

While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the
fhore, great numbers of the natives thronged down upon
the reef, all armed as above mentioned. Mourooa, who
was now in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike
appearance hindered us from landing, ordered them to
retire back. As many of them complied, I judged he muft
be a perfon of fome confequence among them. Indeed, if
Ave underftood him right, he was the king's brother. So
great was the curiofity of feveral of them, that they took
to the water, and, fwimming off to the boats, came on
board them without referve. Nay, we found it difficult
to keep them out ; and ftill more difficult to prevent
3 their

:• ,1:

1*1.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

their carrying off every thing they could lay their hands
upon. At length, when they perceived that we were re-
turning to the fhipsy they all left us, except our original
vifiter Mourooa. He, though not without evident figns of
fear, kept his place in my boat, and accompanied me on
board the fhip.

The cattle and other new objects, that prefented them-
felves to him there, did not ftrike him with fo much fur-
prife as one might have expedled. Perhaps his mind was
too much taken up about his own fafety, to allow him to
attend to other things. It is certain, that he feemed very
uneafy ; and the fliip, on our getting on board, happening
to be ftanding off Ihore, this circumftance made him the
more fo. I could get but little new information from him ;
and therefore, after he had made a Ihort ftay, I ordered
a boat to carry him in toward the land. As foon as he got
out of the cabin, he happened to ftumble over one of the
goats. His curiofity now overcoming his fear, he flopped,
looked at it, and afked Omai, what bird this was ? and not
receiving an immediate anfwer from him, he repeated the
quertion to feme of the people uix>n deck. The boat hav-
ing conveyed him pretty near to the furf, he leaped into
the fea, and fwam alhore. He had no fooner landed, than
the multitude of his countrymen gathered round him, as if
with an eager curiolity to learn from him what he had
feen; and iii this lituation they remained, when we loft
fight of them. As foon as the boat returned, we hoifted
her in, and made fail from the land to the Northward.

Thus were we obliged to leave, unvifited, this fine iiland,
which feemed capable of fupplying all our wants. It lies
in the latitude of ai° 57' South ; and in the longitude of

17s

201° 53' Eaft.

Such parts of the coaft, as fell under our

obfervation.

>777-
March.

■ ■" ''IT

176

>777-
March.

' ■ -r ^'i i-i

Wj': . '' ■■

\w' '■ ■

:;^''

ilr •

11 %

it?- i;

A VOYAGE TO

obfervation, are guanled by a reef of coral rock, on the out-
iide of which the fea is of an unfathomable depth. It is full
five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal
height ; though, in clear weather, it may be certainly feen
at the diftance of ten leagues ; for we had not loft fight of it
at night, when we had run above feven leagues, and the
weather was cloudy. In the middle, it rifes into little hills,
from whence there is a gentle defcent to the Ihore, which,
at the South Weft part, is ftcep, though not above ten or
twelve feet high ; and has feveral excavations made by the
beating of the waves againft a brownifli fand-ftone of
which it is comi>ofed. The defcent here is covered with
trees of a deep green colour, very thick, but not high,
which feem all of one fort, unlefs neareft the ftiore, where
there are great numbers of that fpecies of dracana found in
the woods of New Zealand, which are alfo fcattered in fome
other places. On the North Weft part, the fliore, as wc
mentioned above, ends in a fandy beach ; beyond which the
land is broken down into fmall chafms or gullies, and has a
broad border of trees refembling tall willows ; which, from
its regularity, might be fuppofed a work of art, did not its
extent forbid us to think fo. Farther up on the afcent, the
trees were of the deep green mentioned before. Some of
us fuppofed thefe to be the rima^ intermixed with low cocoa
palms ; and a few of fome other forts. They feemed not
fo thick as on the South Weft part, and higher ; which ap-
pearance might be owing to our nearer approach to the
ftiore. On the little hills, were fome trees of a taller fort,
thinly fcattered ; but the other parts of them were either
bare, and of a reddifli colour, or covered with fomething
like fern. Upon the whole, the illand has a pretty afpe^t,
and might be made a beautiful fpot by cultivation.

■i '\

m,::%

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

As the inhabitants feemcd to be both numerous and well
fed, fuch articles of provifion as the illand produces muft
be in great plenty. It might, however, be a matter of cu-
riofity to know, particularly, their method of fubfiftence ;
for our friend Mourooa told us, that they had no animals,
as hogs and dogs, both which, however, they had heard of;
but acknowledged they had plantains, bread-fruit, and taro.
The only birds we faw, were fome while egg-birds, terns,
and noddies ; and one white heron, on the fhore.

The language of the inhabitants of Mangcea is a dialcdl
of that fpoken at Otaheitc ; though their pronunciation, as
that of the New Zealanders, be more guttural. Some of
their words, of which two or three are perhaps peculiar to
this ifland, are here fubjoined, as taken, by Mr. Anderfon,
from Omai, who had learnt them in his converfations with
Mourooa. The Otaheite words, where there rs any re-
femblance, are placed oppofite.

177

ftrcb.

I' 4

Englifli.

Mangeea.

Otaheite.

^ cocoa nut.

Eakkaree,

Aree.

Bread-fruit,

Kooroo,

Ooroo.

A canoe.

Ewakka,

Evaa.

Friend,

Naoo, mou.

A man,

Taata, or Tangata,

Taata.

Cloth, OT clotb plpnt

, Taia, taia aoutee,

Eoute.

Good,

Mata,

Myty.

A club,

Pooroohee.

res.

Aee,

Ai.

No,

Aoure,

Aoure.

A/pear,

Heyhey.

A fight, or battle.

Etamagee,

Tamaee.

A woman.

Waheinc,

Waheine.

Vol. I.

178

A V O Y A c; E r o

1777.

March.

liiiguni.

1 » t-.

■ Man^eea,
Maheine)
Meetaia matooa.
Ou,
Euta,
Ehataieee?
Oo.
EreekeCf

Otabeite.
Maheine.

Wou.
Euta.
Owytaieeoa ?

Erce.

Adau^^btery ^
'The fully

Tbejbore,

What is (batt

There y

A chief,

^ ^ r / 1 Manna fan adjun^l

Great,oTpowerful,\ ,, ,^^_^^.

To kifsy ■ Ooma.

The natives of Mangeca feem to refemble thofe of Ota-
hcite and the Marquefas in the beauty of their perfons,
more than any other nation I have feen in thefe fcas ; hav-
ing a finooth Ikin, and not being mufcular. Their general
difpofition alfo correfponds, as far as we had opportunities
of judging, with that which diftinguiflies the firll men-
tioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as
Mourooa lliewed us, are acquainted with all the lafcivious
gefticulations which the Otaheiteans pradlifc ii. meir dances.
It may alfo be fuppofed, that their method of living is fi-
milar. For, though the nature of the country prevented
our feeing many of their habitations, we obfcrved one
houfe near the beach, which much refembled, in its mode
of conftrudlion, thofe of Otaheite. It was pleafantly lituated
in a grove of trees, and appeared to be about thirty feet
long, and feven or eight high, with an open end, which
reprefented an ellipfe divided tranfverfely. Before it, was
fpread fomething white on a few bullies ; which we con-
jedtured to be a iilhing net, and, to appearance, of a very
delicate texture.

They

hi'.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

179

They fiilute ftrangers much afu r the niannerof the New '777.
Zealanders, by joining nofes ; aduing, howcvei , the addi-
tional ceremony of taking the lia'id of the ^erfon to whom
they are paying civilities, and rul>inng it witii a de-gree of
force upon their nofe and mouth ^K

• The inhabitants of the Palaos New Philippine, or rather Caroline Idandis at the
diftance of tilinoft fift'^n hundred leagues from Mangeea, have the (kine mode of faludrion.
** Leur r' tl (^, < t la marque de leur refpedl, confifte k prendre la main ou le pied de celut
<* k ^.i> 11 ' <il( . '''ure homKur, et s'cn frotter doiicemcnt tout le vi&ge." Liitrti Edi-
JiiiMa tt CHrituj,,, Tom. xv. p. ao8. Edit. 1781.

I f'

. t

A a 2

C; II A P.

t8o

March.

Sunday 30.
Monday 31.

April.
Tuefday 1.

A VOYAGE TO

CHAP. II.

I'be Difcoveiy of an IJland called IVateeoo. — Its Coajls exa-
. mined. —Fiji ts from the Natives on board the Ships. — MeJJ\
Gore, Burney, and Anderfon, with Omai, fent on Shore. —
Mr. Anderfoft's Narrative of their Reception. — Omai's Ex-
pedient to prevent their being detained. — His meeting with
fome of his Countrymen, and their dijlrefsful Foyage.— Far-
ther Account of Wateeoo, and of its Inhabitants.

AFTER leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th,
we continued our courfe Northward all that night,
and till noon on the 31ft; when we again ilxw land, in the
dire(5lion of North Er.il by North, diftant eight or ten
leagues.

Next morning, at eight o'clock, wc had got abreaft of its
North end, within four leagues of it, but to leeward ; and
could now pronounce it to be an illand, nearly of the fame
appearance and extent with that we had fo lately left. At
the fame time, another illand, but much fmaller, was {^tw
right ahead. We could have foon reached this ; but the
largeft one had the preference, as molt likely to furnifli a
fupply of food for the cattle, of which we began to be in
great want.

With this view I determined to work up to it ; but as
there was but little wind, and that little was unfavourable,
we were ilill two leagues to leeward at eight o'clock the

following

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

i8i

>777-
Apul.

following morning. Soon after, I fent two armed boats

from the Rclblution, and one from the Difcovery, tinder

the command of Lieutenant Gore, to look for anchoring- Wcdnef. ?

ground, and a landing-place. In the mean time, we plyed

up under the illand with the fliips.

Juft as the boats were putting off, we obl'erved Teveral
fingle canoes coming from the fliore. They went firft to
the Difcovery, flie being the neareft fliip. It was not long
after, when three of thefe canoes came along-fide of the
Refolution, each conduced by one man. They are long
and narrow, and fupported by outriggers. The flern is
elevated about three or four feet, fomething like a Ihip's
Itern-poll. The head is flat above, but prow-like below,
and turns down at the extremity, like the end of a violin.
Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to
our vifiters; and they gave us a few cocoa-nuVs, upon
our afking for them. But they did not part with them
by way of exchange for what they had received from
us. For they feemed to have no idea of bartering ; nor
did they appear to eftimate any of our i^refents at a high
rate.

With a little perfuafion, one of them made his canoe fall
to the fliip, and came on board ; and the other two, en-
couraged by his example, foon followed him. Their whole
behaviour marked that they were quite at their eafe, and
felt no fort of apprehenfion of our detaining, or ufing
them ill.

After their departure, another canoe arrived, condud'ted
by a man who brought a bunch of plantains as a prcibnt
to me ; alking for me by name, having learnt it from
Omai, who was lent l)efore us in the boat with Mr. (lore.
In return for this civilitv, I gave him an axe, and a piece

of '

(.! i

l82

A VOYAGE TO

1777-
April.

of red cloth ; and he paddled back to the fhore well fatif-
fied. I afterward underftood from Omai) that this pre-
fent had been fent from the king, or principal Chief of the
illand.

Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve
men, came toward us. As they drew near the fliip, they
recited fome words in concert, by way of chorus *, one of
their number firft (landing up, and giving the word before
each repetition. When they had finiflied their folemn
chant, they came along-lide, and afked for the Chief. As
foon as I fhewed myfelf, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were
conveyed up into the Ihip ; and the principal perfon in the
canoe made me an additional prefent of a piece of matting,
as foon as he and his companions got on board.

Our viliters were condu<Sled into the cabin, and to other
parts of the fhip. Some objects feemed to ftrike them
with a degree of furprize ; but nothing fixed their atten-
tion for a moment. They were afraid to come near the
cows and horfes ; nor did they form the leaft conception
of their nature. But the flieep and goats did not furpafs
the limits of their ideas ; for they gave us to underftand,
that they knew them to be birds. It will appear rather
incredible, that human ignorance could ever make fo
ftrange a miitake ; there not being the moft diilant limili-

• Something like this ceremony was performed by the inhabitants of the Marquefas,
when Captain Cook vilitcd thcni in 1774- iVr Ijii Foyuge, Vol. i. p. 301. It is curious
to obferve, at what imnienfc diftaiues this mode of receiving ftrangcrs prevails. Padillo,
who failed from Manilla in 171:^, on a voyage to difcoverthe Falaos Iflands, was thus re-
ceived iherc. 1 he writer of the relation of his voyage fays, " Auflitot qu'ils appro-
" cherent de notre b'jrd, ils fe niircnt a chanter. Us rcgloient la cadence, en frappant
" des mains fur leurs cuilfes."

Lrtires Edlfwnta U (Mrieitfa, Tom. xv. p. 323.

tvule

' U ij

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

183

tude between a Iheep or goat, and any winged animal.
But thefe people leemed to know nothing of the exiftence
of any other land-animals, befides hogs, dogs, and birds.
Our flice}) and goats, they could fee, were very different
creatures from the two firft, and therefore they inferred,
that they muft belong to the latter clafs, in which they
knew there is a confiderable variety of fpecies. I made a
prefent to my new friend of what I thought might be moll
acceptable to him ; but, on his going away, he feemed ra-
ther difappointed than pleafed. I afterward underftood
that he was very defirous of obtaining a dog, of which
animal this ifland could not boaft, though its inhabitants
knew that the race exifted in other iflands of their ocean.
Captain Gierke had received the like prefent, with the fame
view, from another man, who met with from him the like
difappomtment .

The people in thefe canoes were in general of a middling
fize, and not unlike thofe of Mangeea; though feveral
were of a blacker call than any we faw there. Their hair
was tied on the crown of the head, or flowing loofe about
the fhoidders ; and though in fome it was of a frizzling
difpofition, yet, for the moll part, that, as well as the
(Iraight fort, was long. Their features were various, and
fome of the young men rather handfome. Like thofe of
Mangeea, they had girdles of glazed cloth, or fine matting,
the ends of which, being brought betwixt their thighs, co-
vered the adjoining parts. Ornaments, compofed of a fort
of broad grafs, llaincd with red., and ftrung with berries of
the night-fliade, were worn about their necks. Their ears
were bored, but not Hit ; and they were pundlured upon
the legs, from the knee to the heel, which made them ap-
pear as if they wore a kind of boots. They alfo rcfembled
I the

1777-
April.

■ 1 ■,

. i

1777'
April,

1S4 A V Q Y A G E T O

the inhabitants of Mangeca in the length of their beards,
_ and, like the tn, wore a fort of fandals upon their feet.
Their behaviour was frank and cheerful, with a great deal
of good-nature.

At three o'clock in the afternoc i, Mr. Gore returned
with the boat, and informed me, that he had examined all
the Well fide of the ill and, without finding a place where
a boat could land, or the Ihips could anchor, the fliore be-
ing every where bounded by a iteep coral rock, againft
which the fea broke in a dreadful lurf. But as the na-
tives feemed very friendly, and to cxprefs a degree of dif-
apixiintmcnt when they fav/ that our people failed in their
attempts to land, Mr. Gore was of opinion, that by means
of Omai, who could bcft explain our requell, they might
be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats, beyond the
furf, fuch articles as we moft wanted ; in particular, the
ftems of plantain trees, which make good food for the
cattle. Having little or no wind, the delay of a day or two
was not of any moment ; and therefore I determined to try
the experiment, and got every thing ready againft the next
morning.
ThurAiay 3. Soon after (kiy-break, we obferved Ibme canoes coming
off to the fliijis, and one of them dire<5led its courfe to the
Refolution. In it was a hog, with fome plantains and
cocoa nuts, for vhich the people, w ho brought them, de-
manded a dog from us, and rcfuled every other thing that
we offered in exchange. One of our gentlemen on board,
ha})pencd to have a ddg and a bitch, which w'ere great
nuifanccs in tlic ihip, and might have been difpofed of on
this occalion for a purpofe of real utility, by ])ropagating a
race of fo ufcful an animal in this iiland. But their owner
had no fuch views, in making them the companions of his

vovage.

i .■■-!'

''<

ill

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

voyage. However, to gratify thefe people, Omai parted
with a favourite dog he had brought from England ; and
with this acquifition they departed highly fatisfied.

About ten o'clock, I difpatched Mr. Gore with three
boats, two from the Refolution, and one from the Difco-
very, to try the experiment he had proj^ofed. And, as I
could confide in his diligence and ability, I left it entirely to
himfelf, to a6l as, from circumftances, he fliould judge to
be moft proper. Two of the natives, who had been on
board, accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his
boat as an interpreter. The fliips being a full league from
the ifland when the boats put off, and having but little
wind, it was noon before we coxild work up to it. We then
faw our three boats riding at their grapplings, juft without
the furf, and a prodigious number of the natives on the
ihore, abreaft of them. By this we concluded, that Mr.
Gore, and others of our people, had landed, and our impa-
tience to know the event may be eafdy conceived. In order
to obferve their motions, and to be ready to give them fuch
alliftance as they might want, and our refpe<Si:ive fituations
woidd admit of, I kept as near the Ihore as was prudent. I
was fenfible, however, that the reef was as effectual a bar-
rier between us and our friends who had landed, and put
them as much beyond the reach of our protedlion, as if half
the circumference of the globe had intervened. Bill the
iilanders, it was probable, did not know this fo well as we
did. Some of them, now and then, came off to the Ihips in
their canoes, with a few cocoa nuts ; which they exchanged
for whatever was offered to them, without feeming to give
the preference to any particular article.

Thefe occafional vifits fei*ved to leflen my folicitude about
our people who had landed. Though we could get no in-

VoL. I. B b formation

185

»777-
April.

\i'

' >;iJ

i86

A VOYAGE TO

r' t

if :.'

formation from our vifiters ; yet their venturing on board
feemed to imply, at leaft, that their countrymen on fliore
had not made an improper ufe of tne confidence put in
then. At length, a little before fun-fet, we had the fatisfac-
tion of feeing the boats put off. When they got on board,
I found that Mr. Gore himfelf, Omai, V.v. Anderfon, and
Mr. Burney, were the only perfons who had landed. The
tranfadtions of the day were now fully reported to me by
Mr. Gore ; but Mr. Anderfon's account of them being very
particular, and including fome remarks on the ifland and
its inhabitants, I fliall give it a place here, nearly in his own
words.

" We rowed toward a fmall fandy beach, upon which,
and upon the adjacent rocks, a great number of the natives
had aflembled ; and came to an anchor within a hundred
yards of the reef, which extends about as far, or a little
farther, from the fhore. Several of the natives fwam off,
bringing cocoa nuts ; and Omai, with their countrymen,
whom we had with us in the boats, made them fenfible of
our wifli to land. But their attention was taken up, for a
little time, by the dog, which had been carried from the
Ihip, and was juit brought on fliore, round whom they
flocked with great eagernefs. Soon after, two canoes came
off; and, to create a greater confidence in the iflanders, wc
determined to go unarmed, and run the hazard of being
treated well or ill.

Mr. Burney, the firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery, and
I, went in one canoe, a little time before the other ; and our
condmftors, watching attentively the motions of the lurf,
landed us lafely upon the reef. An illander took hokl of
each of us, obvioully with an intention to fupport us in
walking, over the rugged rocksj to the beach, where feveral

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

of the others met us, holding the green boughs, of a fpe-
cies of Mimoja, in their hands, and fahited us by applying
their nofes to ours.

We were condudled from the beach by our guides,
amidft a great crowd of people, who flocked with very
eager curiofity to look at us ; and wo\ild have prevented our
proceeding, had not fome men, who feemed to have autho-
rity, dealt blows, with little dillindion, amongft them, to
keep them off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-
palms ; and foon came to a number of men, arranged in
two rows, armed with clubs, which they held on their
ftioulders, much in the manner wc rclt a mufquct. After
walking a little way amongft thefe, we found a perfon
who feemed a Chief, fitting on the ground crofs-legged,
cooling himfelf with a fort of triangular fan, made from
a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a poliflied handle, of black
wood, fixed to one corner. In his ears were large bunches
of beautiful red feathers, which pointed forward. But he
had no other mark, or ornament, to dirtinguifli him from
the reft of the people ; though they all obeyed him with
the greateft alacrity. He either naturally had, or at this
time put on, a ferious, but not fevere countenance ; and we
were defired to falute him as he fat, by fome people who
feemed of confequence.

We proceeded ftill amongft the men armed with clvibs,
and came to a fecond Chief, who fat fanning himfelf, and
ornamented as the firft. He was remarkable for his fize,
and uncommon corpulence, though, to appearance, not
above thirty years of age. In the fame manner, we were
condu(5ted to a third Chief, who feemed older than the two
former, and, though not fo fat as the fecond, was of a large
lize. He alfo was fitting, and adorned with red feathers ;

B b 2 and

ri.ff

187

«777-

April.

'4A

Wi.:-

1 88

A VOYAGE ro

'777-
April.

V-

and after faluting him as we had done the others, he de-
lired lis both to fit down. Which we were very willing to
<lo, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with
the exceflive heat we felt amongft the valt crowd that fvu*-
rounded us.

In a few minutes, the people were ordered to feparate ;
and we faw, at the diltance of thirty yards, about twenty
young women, ornamented as the Chiefs, with red fea-
thers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a flow
and ferious air, fung by them all. We got up, and went
forward to fee them ; and though we mull have been
ftrange obje(Sts to them, they continued their dance, with-
out paying the leaft attention to us. They feemed to be
directed by a man who ferved as a prompter, and mentioned
each motion they were to make. But they never changed
the fpot, as we do in dancing, and though their feet were
not at reft, this exercife conlifted more in moving the fingers
very nimbly, at the fame time holding the hands in a prone
polition near the face, and now and then alfo clapping them
together •••*. Their motions and fong were performed in
fuch exadl concert, that it ftiould leem they had been taught
with great care ; and probably they were fele<Sted for this
ceremony, as few of thole whom we faw in the crowd
equalled them in beauty. In general, they were rather
ftovit than flendcr, with black hair flowing in ringlets down
the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their features were,
rather, fuller than what we allow to perfedl beauties, and
much alike ; but their eyes were of a deep black, and each

* The dances of the inliahitants of the Caroline Iflands, have a great rcfcmblance to
thofc here dcfcribed. Sec Li-tt>\s Edif. ct Curieufes., Tom. xv. p. 315. See alfo, in the
(ame volume, p. 207. what is faid of the fmging and dancing of the inhabitants of the
Palaos Iflands, which belong to the fame group.

3 countenance

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

T89

countenance cxpreiTcd a degree of complacency and mo-
defty, peculiar to the fex in every part of the world ; but
perhaps more confpicuous here, where Nature prefented us
with her produ<Slions in the fuUeft perfedlion, unbiafled in
fentimcnt by cuftom, or unreftrained in manner by art.
Their fliape and limbs were elegantly formed. For, as
their drefs confifted only of a piece of glazed cloth faftened
about the waift, and fcarcely reaching fo low as the knees,
in many we had an opportunity of obferving every part.
This dance was not finiflied. when we heard a noife, as if
fome horfes had been galloping toward us ; and, on looking
alide, we faw the people an3ded with clubs, who had been
defired, as we fuppofed, to entertain us with the fight of
their manner of fighting. This they now did, one party
purfuing another who fled.

As we fuppofed the ceremony of being introduced to the
Chiefs was at an end, we began to look about for Mr. Gore
and Omai ; and, though the crowd would hardly fuffer us
to move, we at length found them coming up, as much in-
commoded by the number of people as we had been, and
introduced in the fame manner to the three Chiefs, whofe
names were Otteroo, Taroa, and Fatouweera. Each of
thefe expedted a prefent ; and Mr. Gore gave them fuch
things as he had brought with him from the fliip, for that
purpofe. After this, making ufe of Omai as his interpre-
ter, he informed the Chiefs with what intention we had
come on Ihore ; but was given to underftand, that he muft
wait till the next day, and then he Ihould have what was
wanted.

They now feemed to take fome pains to feparate us from
each other ; and every one of us had his circle to furround
and gaze at him. For my own part, I was, at one time,

above

April.

IQO

A VOYAGE TO

>777-
April.

m^': ''f

'■! r

above an hour apart from my friends ; and when I told the
Chief, with whom I fat, that I wanted to i'peak to Omai, he
peremptorily refufed my reqiielt. At the fame time, I
found the people began to fteal feveral trifling things which
I had in my ix)cket ; and when I took the liberty of com-
plaining to the Chief of this treatment, he juitified it. From
thefe circumrtances, I now entertained apprehenfions, that
they might have formed the defign of detaining us amongll
them. They did not, indeed, feem to be of a difpofition lb
favage, as to make us anxious for the fafety of our pcribns;
but it was, neverthelefs, vexing to think, we had hazarded
being detained by their curiofity. hi this lltuation, I alked
for fomething to eat ; and they readily brought to me fome
cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a fort of four pudding, which
was prefented by a woman. And on my complaining much
of the heat, occafioned by the crowd, the Chief himfelf
condefcended to fan me, and gave me a fmall piece of cloth)
which he had round his waill.

Mr. Burney happening to come to the place where I was,
I mentioned my fufpicions , o him ; and, to put it to the
teft, whether they were well-tcunded, we attempted to get
to the beach. But we were ftop^^'^d, when about half-way,
by fome men, who told us, that we muft go back to the
place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai
entertaining the fame apprehenfions. But he had, as he
fancied, an additional reafon for being afraid ; for he had
obferved, that they had dug a hole in the ground for an
oven, which they were now heating; and he could aflign no
other reafon for this, than that they meant to roaft, and eat
us, as is pradtifed by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay,
he went fo far as to afk them the queftion ; at which they
were greatly furprized, afking, in return, whether that was

a cuftom

.4
; • .1 •

il Hi ':

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

191

a cuftom with us ? Mr. Burney and I were rather angry
that they Ihould be thus fufpedlcd l)y him ; there having,
as yet, been no appearances, in their condu<5t toward us, of
their being capable of fuch brutality.

In this manner we were detained the greateft part of the
day, being fometimes together, and fometimes I'eparated;
but always in a crowd ; who, not fatisficd with gazing at
us, frequently defired us to uncover parts of our Ikin ; the
fight of which commonly produced a general murmur of
admiration. At the fame time they did not omit thefe op-
portunities of rifling our pockets ; and, at laft, one of them
fnatched a fmall bayonet from Mr. Gore, which hung in its
flieath by his fide. This was reprefented to the Chief,
who pretended to fend fome perfon in fearch of it. But, in
all probability, he countenanced the theft ; for, foon after,
Omai had a dagger ftolen from his fide, in the fame man-
ner; though he did not mifs it immediately.

Whether they obfervcd any figns of uneafinefs in us, or
that they voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendfliip
when we cxprelTed a defire to go, I cannot tell ; but, at this
time, they brought fome green boughs, and, flicking their
ends in the ground, defired we might hold them as we fat.
Upon our urging again the bufinefs we came upon, they
gave us to underftand, that we mtift flay and eat with
them ; and a pig which we faw, foon after, lying near the
oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai's
apprehenfion of being put into it himfelf ; and made us
think it might be intended for our repaft. The Chief alfo
promifed to fend fome people to procure food for the catti^ ;
but it was not till pretty late in the afternoon, that we fiiw
them return with a few plantain-trees, which they carried
to our boats ^

1777'
April.

IQi

>777'
April.

,.. , , J ? 'Til

■-if "Au

A VOYAGE TO

In the mean time, Mr. Ikirncy and I attempted again to
jC[o to the beach ; but when we arrived, t'oiuul ovuitives
walclied by people, who, to appearance, hail been plac;ed
there for this purpofe. For when I tried to wade in upon
the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes, and dragged
mc back. I picked up fome fmall pieces of coral, which
they recpiired me to throw down again; and, on my refu-
I'al, they made no fcruple to take them forcibly from me.
I had gathered fome fmall plants; but thefe alio I could not
be permitted to retain. And they took a fan from Mr.
Burney, which he had received as a prelent on coming
ailiore. Omai faid, we had done wrong in taking up any
thing; for it was not the cullom here to permit freedoms of
that kind to ftrangcrs, till they had, in fome meafure, na-
turalized them to the covnitry, by entertaining them with
feftivity for two or three days.

Finding that the only method of procuring better treat-
ment was to yield implicit obedience to their will, we went
up again to the place we had left ; and they now promifed,
that we fliould have a canoe to carry us off to our boats,
after we had eaten of a repaft which had been prepared
for us.

Accordingly, the fecond Chief, to whom we had been in-
troduced in the morning, having feated himfelf upon a low
broad ftool of blackifh hard wood, tolerably poliflied, and
directing the multitude to make a pretty large ring, made
us fit down by him. A confidcrable number of cocoa-nuts
were now brought ; and, Ihortly after, a long green bafket,
with a fufficient quantity of baked plantains to have ferved
a dozen perfons. A piece of the young hog, that had been
<lreffed, was then fet before each of us, of which we were
defired to eat. Oiu' appetites, however, had failed, from

the

,:■:■■ i' ■ -

Til K P \ C IFIC OCEAN.

the fatigue of the day ; and though we did cat a little to
plcale them, it was without fatisfadion to ourfelvcs.

It hcini; now near fun-fct, we told thcni it was time to
go on board. Tlii they allowed; and fent down to the
beach the remainder of the viduals that had been drelllvl,
to be carried with us to the fliiiis. liut, before we fet out,
Omai was treated with a drink, he had been ufed to in his
own country ; which, we obferved, was made here, as at
other Ulands in the South Sea, by chewing the root of a
fort of pepper. We found a canoe ready to put us off to
our boats ; which the natives did, with the fame caution
as when we landed. But, even here, their thicvilh difpo-
lition did not leave them. For a perlbn of fome confe-
qvience among them, who came with us, took an opportu-
nity, jult as they were pufliing the canoe into the furf, to
fnatch a bag out of her, which I had, with the greateft
difficulty, preferved all the day ; there being in it a fmall
lHx:ket-pi(lol, which 1 was unwilling to part with. Per-
ceiving him, I called out, expreffing as nuich difpleafiu'e as
1 could. On whic h he thought proper to retm*n, and fwim
with the bag to the canoe ; but denied he had llolen it,
though deteded in the very a<5l. They put us on board
o\ir boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provi-
lions, which they had brought ; and we rowed to the fliips,
very well pleafed that we had at lall got out of the hands of
our troublefome mallicrs.

We regretted mvich, that our reftrained fituation gave us
fo little opportunity of making obfervations on the country.
For, during the whole day, we were leldom a hundred
yanls from the place where wc were introduced to the
Chiefs on landing; and, confecpiently, were confined to the
furrounding ()l)jeds. The lirll thing that prtfentcd irfelf,
Vol. I. C c worthy

191

1777-
April.

^l?

T94

April.

M^^i

A VOYAGE TO

Avoi thy of our notice, was the number of people; which miift
have been, at leaft, two thoiifand. For thofe who welcomed
lis on the fliore, Tjore no proportion to the multitude wc
found amongft the trees, on proceeding a little way up.

We could alfo obferve, that, except a few, thofe we had

hitherto feen on board, were of the lower clafs. For a great

number of thofe we now met with, had a fuperior dignity

in their air, and were of a much whiter caft. In general,

they had the hair tied on the crown of the head, long,

black, and of a moft luxuriant growth. Many of the

young men were perfejft models in fliape, of a complexion

as delicate as that of the women, and, to appearance, of a

difpofition as amiable. Others, who were more advanced

in years, were corpulent ; and all had a remarkable fmooth-

nefs of the fkin. Their general drefs was a piece of cloth,

or mat, wrapped about the wairt, and covering the parts

which modefty conceals. But fome had pieces of mats,

moft curiouily varied with black and white, made into a fort

of jacket without lleeves ; and others wore conical caps of

cocoa-nut core, neatly interwoven with fmall beads, made

of a Ihelly fubftance. Their ears were pierced ; and in them

they hung bits of the membraneous part of fome plant, or

thick there an odoriferous flower, which feemed to be a

fpecies of^^anlenia. Some, who were of a fuperior clafs, and

alfo the Chiefs, had two little balls, with a common bafe,

made from the l)onc of fome animal, which was hunp*

round the neck, with a great many folds of fmall cord.

And after the ceremony of introdu(5lion to the Chiefs was

over, they then ap]ieared without their red feathers ; which

are certainly conlidcred here as a particular mark of dif-

tindlion ; for none but thcmfelves, and the young women

who danced, aHumcd them.

1 Some

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

195

Some of the men were punctured all over the fides and
back in an uncommon manner ; and fome of the women
had the fame ornament on their legs. But this method was
confined to thofe who feemed to be of a fviperior rank ; and
the men, in that cafe, were alfo generally diftinguiflied by
their fize and corpulence, \inlefs very young. The women
of an advanced age had their hair cropped iliort; and many
were cut, in oblique lines, all over the fore-part of the body ;
and fome of the wounds, which formed rhomboidal figures,
had been fo lately inflidled, that the coagulated blood ftill
remained in them.

The wife of one of the Chiefs appeared with her child,
laid in a piece of red cloth, which had been prefented to
her hufband; and feemed to carry it with great tender-
nefs, fuckling it much after the manner of our women.
Another Chief introduced his daughter, who was young
and beautiful; but appeared with all the timidity natu-
ral to the fex ; though flie gazed on us with a kind of an-
xious concern, that feemed to ftruggle with her fear, and
to exprefs her aftonifliment at fo unufual a fight. Others
advanced with more firmnefs, and, indeed, were lefs re-
ferved than we expelled ; but behaved with a becoming
modefty. We did not obferve any perfonal deformities
amongft either fex; except in a few who had fears of
broad fuperficial ulcers, remaining on the face and other
parts. In proportion to the number of people aflTembled,
there appeared not many old men or women ; which may
cafily be accounted for, by fuppofing that fuch as were
in an advanced period of life, might neither have the
inclination, nor the ability, to come from the more diftant
parts of the iiland. On the other hand, the children
were numerous; and both thefe, and the men, climbed

C c 2 the

1777.

April.

•(;;■

■■•I

196

A VOYAGE TO

April.

4; '

ifi'i'

the trees to look at us, when we were hid by the furrouiid-
ing crowd.

Abo\it a third part of the men were armed with clubs and
fpears; anil, probably, thefe were only the perfons who
had come from a diitance, as many of them had fmall baf-
kets, mats, and other things, fattened to the ends of their
weapons. The clubs were generally about fix feet long,
made of a hard black wood, lance-lhaped at the end, but
much broader, with the edge nicely fcoUoped, and the
whole neatly poliflied. Others of them were narrower at
the point, much fliorter, and plain; and fome were even
fo fmall, as to be ufed with one hand. The fpears were
made of the fame wood, limply pointed ; and, in general,
above twelve feet long; though fome were fo fhort, that
they feemed intended to be thrown as darts.

The place where we were all the day, was under the
fliade of various trees ; in which they preferved their ca-
noes from the fun. About eight or ten of them were here,
aU doiible ones ; that is, two lingle ones fattened toge-
ther (as is ufual, throughout the whole extent of the Pacific
Ocean), by rafters laflied acrois. They were about twenty
feet long, about four feet deep, and the fides rounded with
a plank raifcd upon them, which was fattened ttrorgly by
means of withes. Two of thefe canoes were mott curioully
ftaincd, or painted, all over with black, in numberlefs fmall
figures ; as Ajuares, triangles, &c. and excelled, by far,
any thing of that kind 1 had ever {cQii at any other irtand
in this ocean. Our friends here, indeed, feemed to have ex-
erted more fkill in doing this, than in pundluring their own
bodies. The paddles were about four feet long, nearly ellip-
tical; but broader at the upper end than the middle. Near
the fame place was a hut or flied, about thirty feet long,

and

\-l

THR PACIFIC OCEAN.

and nine or ten high ; in which, perhaps, thefe boats are
built ; but, at this time, it was empty.

The greateft number of the trees around us were cocoa-
palms ; fome forts of hibifcus ; a fpecies of euphorbia ; and,
toward the fea, abundance of the fame kind of trees we
had fecn at Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa ; and whicli feemed
to furround the fliores of this illand in the fame manner.
They are tall and llender, not much iinlike a cyprefs ; but
with bunches of long, round, articulated leaves. The na-
tives call them etoa. On the ground we faw fome grafs ;
a fpecies of convolvulus ; and a good deal of treacle-mujlard.
There are alfo, doubtlefs, other fruit-trees and ufeUd i)lants
which we did not fee. For, befides feveral forts of plan-
tains, they brought, at different times, roots which they
call taro (the coccos of other countries) ; a bread-fruit ;
and a bafket of roafted nuts, of a kidney -fliape, in tafte
like a chefnut, but coarfer.

What the foil of the illand may be, farther inland, we
could not tell. But, toward the fea, it is nothing more
than a bank of coral, ten or twelve feet high, fteep, and
nigged ; except where there are fmall fandy beaches, at
fome clefts where the afcent is gradual. The coral, though
it has, probably, been expofed to the weather for many
centuries, has undergone no farther change than becom-
ing black on the furface ; which, from its irregularity. Is
not much unlike large maffes of a burnt fubftance. But,
on breaking fome pieces off, we found, that, at the depth
of two or three inches, it was juft as frefli as the pieces that
had been lately thrown upon the beach by the waves. The
reef or rock, that lines the fliore entirely, runs to different-
breadths into the fea, where it ends, all at once, and be-
comes like a high, fteep wall. It is, nearly, even with the-

furface

197

1777-
April.

,t;,.

<?■■■' ■ ■

mw ^ •!

f;;:.

&• ■•

198

1777.

April.

A VOYAGE TO

furface of the water, and of a brown or brick colour ; but
the texture is rather porous, yet fufiicient to withftand the
wafliing of the furf which continually breaks upon it."

Though the landing of our Gentlemen proved the means
of enriching my Journal with the foregoing particulars,
the principal obje<Et I had in view was, in a great meafure,
unattaincd ; for the day was fpent without getting any one
thing from the illand worth mentioning. The natives,
however, were gratified with a fight they never before had ;
and, probably, will never have again. And mere curiofity
feems to have been their chief motive for keeping the
gentlemen under fuch reftraint, and for ufing every art to
prolong their continuance amongft them.

It has been mentioned, that Omai was fent upon this ex-
pedition; and, perhaps, his being Mr. Gore's interpreter
was not the only fervice he performed this day. He was
afked, by the natives, a great many nueftioiis concerning
us, our fliips, our country, and the fort of arms we ufed ;
and, according to the account he gave me, his anfwers were
not a little upon the marvellous. As, for inftance, he told
them, that our country had fliips as large as their ifland ; on
board which were inllruments of war (defcribing our guns),
of fuch dimenfions, that feveral people might fit within
them ; and that one of them was fufiicient to crufli the
whole ifland at one fliot. This led them to inquire of him,
what fort of guns we adlually had in our two fliips. He
faid, that though they were but fmall, in comparifon with
thofe he had juft defcribed, yet, with fuch as they were, we
could, with the greateft eafe, and at the dillance the fliips
were from the fliore, deftroy the ifland, and kill every fovil
in it. They perfevercd in their inquiries, to know by
what means this could be done ; and Omai explained the

matter

mMwlli

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

matter as well as he could. He happened luckily to have a
few cartridges in his pocket. Thefe he produced; the
balls, and the gunpowder which was to fet them in motion,
were fubmitted to inl'pedlion ; and, to fvipply the defedts of
his defcription, an appeal was made to the fenfes of the
fpetStators. It has been mentioned above, that one of the
Chiefs had ordered the multitude to form themfelves into
a circle. This furniflied Omai with a convenient ftage for
his exhibition. In the centre of this amphitheatre, the in-
confiderable quantity of gunpowder, collected from his
cartridges, was properly difpofed upon the ground, and,
by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven, where
dinner was drefling, fet on fire. The fudden blaft, and
loud report, the mingled flame and fmoke, that inftantly
fucceeded, now filled the whole aflembly with aftonifh-
ment ; they no longer doubted the tremendous power of oiir
weapons, and gave full credit to all that Omai had faid.

If it had not been for the terrible ideas they conceived
of the guns of our fliips, from this fpecimen of their mode
of operation, it was thought that they would have detailed
the gentlemen all night. For Omai alTured them, that, if
he and his companions did not return on board the lame
day, they might expedl that I would fire upon the illand.
And as we itood in nearer the land in the evening, than
we had done any time before, of which pofition of the
fliips they were obferved to take great notice, they, proba-
bly, thought we were meditating this formidable attack ;
and, therefore, fufFered their guelts to depart ; under the
expedtation, however, of feeing them again on fliore next
morning. But I was too fenfible of the riik they had al-
ready run, to think of a repetition of the experiment.

This day, it feems, was deftined to give Omai more oc-

caiions

199

>777'
April.

Iff' ]». I 4^'

v} ill;;

'^i'it'

too

«777-
April.

W ■ I il ■•'

A VOYAGE TO i

Gallons than one, of being brought forward to bear a prin-
cipal part in its tranfadlions. The ifland, though never
before vifited by Etiropeans, adlually happened to have
other ftrangers refiding in it ; and it was entirely owing to
Omai's being one of Mr. Gore's attendants, that this cu-
rious circumllance came to our knowledge.

Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he
found, amongft the crowd there alTembled, three of his own
countrymen, natives of the Society Illands. At the diftance
of about two hundred leagues from thofe iflanc's, an im-
nicnlb, unknown ocean intervening, with fuch wretched
fca-boats as their inhabitants r;re known to make ufe of,
and fit only for a paffage where fight of land is fcarcely
ever lolt, fuch a meeting, at fuch a place, fo accidentally
vifited by us, may well be looked upon as one of thofe un-
expedled lltuations, with which the writers of feigned ad-
ventures love to furprize their readers, and which, when
they really happen in common life, deferve to be recorded
for their fingularity.

It may ealily be guefled, with what mutual furprize and
fatisfadion Omai and his countrymen engaged in converfa-
tion. Their llory, as relatetl by them, is an affedling one.
About twenty perfons in number, of both fexes, had em-
barked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to crofs over to the
neighbouring iiland Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arif-
iiig, they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the
former. Their intended paflage being a very fliort one,
their ilock of provifions was fcanty, and loon exhauftetl.
The hardlhips they fuffered, ^hilc driven along by the
ftorm, they knew not whither, are not to be conceived.
They pafled many days without having any thing to eat or
drink. Their numbers gradually diminilhed, \\ orn ovit by

famine

,^^^)iim

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

famine and fatigue. Four men only furvived, when the
canoe overfet ; and then the perdif ion of this fmall rem-
nant feemed inevitable. However, they kept hanging by
the fide of their veffel, during fome of the laft days, till
Providence brought them in fight of the people of this
iiland, who immediately fent out canoes, took them off
their wreck, and brought them afhore. Of the four who
were thus faved, one was lince dead. The other three, \vho
lived to have this opportunity of giving an account of their
almoft miraculous tranfplantation, fpoke highly of the kind
treatment they here met with. And fo well fatisfied were
they with their fituation, that they refilled the offer made
to them by our gentlemen, at Omai's reqxieif, of giving
them a paffage on board our Ihips, to reftore them to their
native illands. The fimilarity of manners and language,
had more than naturalized them to this {\K>t ; and the frefli
connexions which they had here formed, and which it
would have been painful to have broken off, after fuch a
length of time, fufficiently account for their declining to
revifit the places of their birth. They had arrived upon
this iiland at leaft twelve years ago. For I learnt from Mr.
Anderfon, that he found they knew nothing of Captain
Wallis's vifit to Otaheite in 1765 ; nor of feveral other me-
morable occurrences, fuch as the conqueft of Ulietea by
thofe of Bolabola, which had preceded the arrival of the
Europeans. To Mr. Anderfon I am allb indebted for their
names, Orououte, Otirreroa, and Tavee ; the firft, born at
Matavai in Otaheite ; the fecond, at Ulietea ; and the third
at Huaheine.

The landing of our gentlemen on this iiland, though
they failed in the objetft of it, cannot but be confidered as
a very fortunate circumitancc. It has proved, as we have

Vol. I. D d feen,

a6i

Aprii>

..'l^

i02

"77?-
April,

•i

A VOYAGE TO

leen, the means of bringing to our knowledge a matter of
fadt, not only very curious, but very inllrudlive. The ap-
plication of the above narrative is obvious. It will ferve to
explain, better than a thoufancl conjectures of fpeculative
reaibners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in
particular, how the illands of the South Sea, may have been
firlt i>eoplcd ; cfpccially thole that lie remote from any in-
habitetl continent, or from each other 'i*.

This illand is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in
the latitude of 20° i' South, and in the longitvide 201° 45'
Eall, and is about fix leagues in circumference. It is a
beautiful fpot, with a furface compofed of hills and plains,
and covered with verdure of many hues. Our gentlemen
found the foil, where they paffed the day, to be light and
fandy. But farther up the country, a different fort, per-
haps, prevails ; as we lliw from the fliipj by the help of
our glalles, a reddilh call upon the rifing grounds. There

• Such accidents as this here related, probably happen frequently in the Pacific Ocean.
In i6g6, two canoes, having on board thirty perfons of both fexes, were driven, by con-
trary winds and tempcftuous weather, on the iflc of Samal, one of the Philippines, after
iK'ing toft about at fea feventy days, .md having performed a voyage, from an ifland called
by them Amorfot, 300 leagues to the Eaft of Samal. Five of the number who had em-
barked, died of the hardfhips fuft'ercd during this extraordinary paflagc. Sec a particulai'
account of them, and of the iflands tiiey belonged to, in Lellres Edifitintes y CurietiftS.,
Tom. XV. from p. 196. to p. 215. In the fame Volume, from p. 282. to p. 320. we
have the relation of a fimilar adventure, in 1721, when two canoes, one containing twen-
ty-four, and the other fix perfons, men, women, and children, were driven, from an ifland
they called Farroilep, Northward to the Ifle of (juam, or Guahan, one of the Ladror.ts
or Mariannes. But thefe had not failed fo far as their countrymen, who reached Samal
as above, and they had been at fea only twenty daj'S. There fceins to be no reafon to
doubt tlic general authent Ity of thcfc two relations. The information contained in the
letters of the Jefuits, about thcfe iflands, now known under the name of the Carolines,
and difcovcrcd to the Spaniards by tlie arrival of tlic canoes at Samal and Guam, has been
adopted by ail our later writers. See Prefident dc Brofle's Voyages aux Tares AuJlraUsy
Tom. ii. from p. 443. to p. 490. Sec alfo the Mxhrn Univrfd Hijiory,

the

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

the inhabitants have their hoafcs ; for wc could perceive
two or three, which were long an'\ fpacious. Its produce,
with the addition of hogs, we found to be the fame as at
the laft illand we had vifited, which the j^eople of this, tc
whom we pointed out its pofition, called Owhavarouah ; a
name fo different from Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, wliich we
learnt from its own inhabitants, that it is highly probable
Owhavarouah is another illand. - ,u ■ . ?> ii.

From the circumftances already mentioned, it appears,
that Watceoo can be of little ufe to any fliip that wants re-
frefliment, unlefs in a cafe of the moil abfolule neceflity.
The natives, knowing now the value of fome of our com-
modities, might he induced to bring off truits and hogs, to
a Ihip Handing off and on, or to boats lying off the reef, as
ours did. It is doubtful, however, if any frefli water covild
be procured. T'or, though fome was brought, in cocoa nut
fliells, to the gentlemen, they were told, that it was at a
conliderable dillanco ; and, probably, it is only to be met
with in fome ftagnant pool, as no running itream was any
where feen.

According to Omai's report of what he learnt in conver-
fation with his three countrymen, the manners of thefe
illanders, their method of treating llrangers, and their ge-
neral habits of life, are much like thofe that prevail at
Otaheite, and its neighbouring illcs. Their religious cere-
monies and opinions are alio nearly the fame. For, upon
feeing one man, who was painted all over of a deep black
colour, and incpiiring the realbn, our gentlemen were told,
that he had lately been paying the laft good offices to a de-
cealed friend ; and they found, that it was upon fimilar
occalions^ the women cut themfelves, as already mentioned.
I'Yom every circumftance, indeed, it is indubitable, that the

D d 2 natives ■

403

«777'
April.

l!l«-

''■h .'

%-, , '

ft. w,''
I'.

204

«777-
April.

A VOYAGE TO

natives of Wateeoo fprung, originally, from the fame flock,
which hath fpread itfelf fo wonderfully all over the im-
menfe extent of the South Sea. One would fuppofe» how-
ever, that they put in their claim to a more illuftrious ex-
tradlion ; for Omai afl'ured us, that they dignifie<l their
illand with the appellation of IVenooa no te Eatooa, that is,
A land of gods ; efteeming themfelves a fort of divinities,
and poflelfed with the fpirit of the Eatooa. This wild en-
thudadic notion Omai feemed much to approve of, telling
us there were inftances of its being entertained at Otaheite ;
but that it was univerfally prevalent amongft the inhabi-
tants of Mataia, or Ofnaburg liland.

The language fpoken at Wateeoo was equally well un-
derftood by Omai, and by our two New Zealanders. What
its peculiarities may be, when compared with the other
dialedts, I am not able to point out ; for, though Mr. An-
derfon had taken care to note down a fpecimen of it, the
natives, who made no dillinftion of the objeiSts of their
theft, ftole the memorandum book.

CHAP.

m^i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

CHAP. IIL

20^5

' IBf

H^enooa-ette, or Otakootaiay vijited. — Account of that I/land^
and of its Produce. — Hervefs IJland, or 'Terougge mou At'
tooa^ found to bs inhabit ed.^-'Tranfa&ions with the 'Natives.
—"Their PerfonSy Drefs, Languagey Canoes. — Fruitlefs At-
tempt to land there. — Reafons for bearing away for the
Friendly I/lands. — Palmerjion's IJland touched at.-— Defer ip-
tion of the two Places where the Boats landed. —Re frefh"
ments obtained there. — QonjeBures on the Formation offuch
low Iflandss — Arrival at the Friendly IJlands..

'777.
April.

LIGHT airs and calms having prevailed, by turns, all
the nij'^ht of the 3d, the Eafterly fwell had carried the
lliips fome cLftance from Wateeoo, before day-break. But F"***/ 4
as I had failed in my objedl of procuring, at that place,
fome effc(5lual fupply, I faw no reafon for Haying there any
longer. I, therefore, quitted it, without regret, and fteered
for the neighbouring illand, which, as has been mentioned,
we difcovered three days before.

With a gentle breeze at Eaft, we got up with it, before
ten o'clock in the morning, and I immediately difpatched
Mr. Gore, with two boats, to endeavour to land, and get
jbme food for our cattle. As there leemed to be no inha-
bitants here to obftrudt our taking away whatever we
might think proper, I was coniident of his being able to
make amends for our late difappointment, if the landing
could be efte(51:ed. There was a reef here furrounding the

land, ,

it I

VOYAGE TO

I i

'!''«

■'i.

i ,'■ .

■i ■

- (

if'

1 ' ■■'

liiiul, as nt Watccoo, and a ton (idci able furf brcakiiig
a^ainll the rocks. Nolwithlhxndin^ which, our boats iu>
Iboncr reached the lee, or Welt fide of the illaiid, but they
ventured in, and Mr. CJorc and his party got lal'e on Ihore.
J could, trom the Ihip, lee that they had I'ucceeded lo far ;
and 1 immediately lent a Imall boat to know what farther
afliltancc was \\ anting. She did not return till three o'clock
in the afternoon, having waited to take in a lading of what
uleful produce tiie iiland afforded. As foon as flie was
cleared, Ihe was lent again for another cargo ; the Jolly
boat was alio dilpatchcd, and Mr. Gore was ordered to be
on board, with all the boats, before night ; which was com-
plied with.

The fupply obtained here, confiitcd of about a hun-
dred cocoa nuts for each fliip ; and befules this refrefli-
ment for ourfelves, we got for our cattle fome grafs, and a
quantity of the leaves and blanches of young cocoa trees,
and of the ivbana tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the pan-
danus of the Eall Indies. This latter being of a f<ift,
fpungy, juicy na^^ure, the cattle eat it very well, when
cut into Imall pieces ; ^o that it might be laid, without
any deviation from truth, that we fed them upon billet
wood.

This ifland lies in the latitude of 19' 51' South, and the
longitude of 201° 37' Eaft, about three or four leagues from
Wateeoo, the inhabitants of whic h called it ijlakootaia ; and
fometimes they fpoke of it under the appellation c^i H'oiooU'
ette, which lignifies little iiland. Mr. Andcrfon, who was
on fliorc with our party, and walked rcnmd it, gueirecl that
it coidd not be much more than three miles in circuit.
From him 1 alio learned the following partic\dars. The
bcachy within the reef, is compoied of a w hite coral fand ;

3 above

''M

TliR PACIFIC OCEAN.

ao7

above which, the hind within does not rile above fix or
fevcn feet, and is covered with a I'^^^t reddilh foil; but is
entirely delHtiite of water.

The only (onimon trees found there were cocoa-palms,
of which there were fcveral chillers ; and valt numbers of
the ivbarra. There were, likewile, the collophsllufth fu-
r/aiic7t jfuettiuday a Ipecies of iourncfortla^ and tabervKr.
monumtv^ with a few other fhrubs ; and Ibme of the etoa
tree leen at Watecoo. A fort of biml-tveed over-ran the va-
cant fpaces ; exceiit in fome places, where was found a
conliderable quantity of trcacle-tnujlard<t a fpecies oi [purge ^
M ith a few other Ihiali plants, and the niorinda citrifolia ;
the fruit of which is eaten by the natives of Otaheite in
times of fcarcity. Omai, who had landed with the party,
(h'elfed ibme of it for their dinner ; but it proved very in-
different.

The only bird leen amongft the trees, was a beautiful
cuckoo, of a chefnut brown, variegated with black, which
was Ihot. But, upon the fliore, were fome egg-birds ; a
imall fort of curlew ; blue and white herons ; and great
numbers of noddies ; which lall, at this time, laid their eggs,
a little farther up, on the gnnmd, and often refted on the
ivbarra tree.

One of our people c;\vnrht a lizard, of a moft forbidding
.ilpc(St, though fmall, umning up a tree ; and many, of an-
other ft)rt, were ftx.n. The bullies toward the fea, were
fretpiented by infinite numbers of a fort of moth, elegantly
Ipeckled with red, black, and white. There were alfo le-
veral other forts of moths, as well as fome pretty butter-
flies; and a few other infedls.

Though there were, at this time, no fixed 'ihabitants
u]M)n the illand, indubitable marks remained of its being,

1777-
April.

' ^1

208

1777-
April.

i, .

^■s

1vl '

Sunday 6.

A VOYAGE TO

at leaft, occafionally frequented. In particular, a few empty
huts were found. There were alfo feveral large Hones
eredlcd, like monuments, under the ftiade of ibnie trees ;
and feveral fpaces inclofed with fmaller ones ; where, pro-
bably, the dead had been buried. And, in one place, a
great many cockle-fliclls, of a particular fort, finely groov-
ed, and larger than the fift, were to be feen ; from which
it was reafonable to conje<5lure, that the illand had been vi-
fited by perfons who feed, partly, on fliell-fifli. In one of
the huts, Mr. Gore left a hatchet, and fome nails, to the full
value of what we took away.

As foon as the boats were hoifted in, I made fail again to
the Northward, with a light air of wind Eafterly ; intend-
ing to try our fortune at Hervey's liland, which was difco-
vered in 1773, during my laft voyage *. Although it was
not above fifteen leagues diftant, yet we did not get fight of
it till day-break in the morning of the 6th, when it bore
Weft South Weft, at the diftance of aboxit three leagues.
As we drew near it, at eight o'clock, we obferved feveral
canoes put off" from the fliore ; and they came dire(flly to-
ward the fhips. This was a fight that, indeed, furprizcd
me, as no figns of inhabitants were feen when the ifiand
was firft difcovered ; which might be owing to a pretty
brilk wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes ven-
turing out, as the ftiips paflcd to leeward ; whereas now we
were to windward.

As we ftill kept on toward the ifiand, fix or feven of the
canoes, all double ones, foon came near us. There were,
from three to fix men, in each of them. They fto])pe(l at
the diftance of about a ftonc's throw from the fliip ; and it

* See Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. J 90. where this idand is (aid to be about
fix leagues in circuit.

was

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

was fome time before Omai could prevail upon them to
come along-fide ; but no entreaties could induce any of
them to venture on board. Indeed their diforderly and cla-
morous behaviour, by no means indicated a dilpofition to
truft us, or treat us well. We afterward learnt that they
had attempted to take fome oars ovit of the Difcovery's boat,
that lay along-fide, and ftruck a man who endeavoured to
prevent them. They alfo cut away, with a fliell, a net
with meat, which hung over that fhip's Hern, and abfo-
lutely rcfufed to reftore it ; though we, afterward, pur-
chafed it from them. Thofe who were about our Ihip, be-
haved in the fame daring manner ; for they made a fort of
hook, of a long ftick, with which they endeavoiired, open-
ly, to rob us of feveral things ; and, at laft, actually got a
frock, belonging to one of our people that was towing,
over-board. At the fame time, they immediately fliewed a
knowledge of bartering, and fold fome fifli they had
(amongft which was an extraordinary flounder, fpotted like
porjihyry ; and a cream-coloured eel, fpotted with black),
for fmall nails, of which they were immoderately fond, and
called them ^qoore. But, indeed, they caught, with the
greatelt avidity, bits of paper, or any thing elfe that was
thrown to them ; and if what was thrown fell into the fea,
they made no fcruple to fwim after it.

Thefe people feemetl to differ as much in perfon, as in
difpofition, from the natives of Wateeoo ; though the dif-
tancc between the two illands is not very great. Their co-
lour was of a deeper cafl ; and fe^ eral had a fierce, rugged
n.fpe6l, rcfembling the natives of New Zealand ; but fome
were fairer. They had ftrong l)lack hair, M'hich, in general,
they wore cither hanging loofe about the flioulders, or
tied in a bunch on the crown of the heail. Some, however,

Vol. I. E e had

209

«777.
April.

■ :)■

■( '■'

!>:

2IO

A VOYAGE TO

April.

had it cropped pretty fliort ; and, in two or three of them,
it was of a brown, or reddifli colour. Their only covering
was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt feveral times round the
lower part of the body, and which pafled between the
thighs ; but a fine cap of red feathers was feen lying in
one of the canoes. The 111 ell of a pearl-oyfter poliflied^
and hung about the neck, was the only ornamental fafliion
that we obfcrved amongft them ; for not one of them had
adopted that mode of ornament, fo generally prevalent
amongft the natives of this Ocean, of pun<Sturing, or fa--
tooing their bodies.

Though fingular in this, we had the moft unequivocal
proofs of their being of the fame common race. Their
language approached ftill nearer to the dialedl of Otaheite,
than that of Wateeoo, or Mangeea. Like the inhabitants
of thefe two illands, they inqmred from whence our fhips
came ; and whither bound ; who was our Chief; the num-
ber of our men on board ; and even the fliip's name. And
they very readily anfwered fuch queftions as we propofed
to them. Amongll other things, they told us, they had
feen two great fliips, like ours, before ; but that they had
not fix)ken with them as they failed paft. There can be no
doubt, that thefe were the Refolution and Adventure. We
learnt from them, that the name of their iiland is Tc-
rouggemou Atooa ; and that they were fubjedl to Teerc-
vatoocah, king of Wateeoo •'". According to the account
that they gave, their articles of food are cocoa-nuts, (ifli,
and turtle ; the ifland not producing jilantains, or bread-
fruit; and being dcftitutc of hogs and dogs. Their canoes,
of which near thirty were, at one time, in light, are pretty

* The reader will obfcrvc, that this name bears little affinity to any one of the names
vf the three Chiefs of Wateeoo, as prefcrvcd by Mr. Andtilon.

1 large,

! hill

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

laree, and well built. In the conftni(flion of the ftern, they
bear fome refemblanco to thofe of Wateeoo ; and the head
projedls out nearly in the fame manner ; but the extremity
is turned up inftead of down.

Having but very little wind, it was one o'clock before we
drew near the North Weft part of the illand ; the only part
where there fcemed to be any probability of finding an-
chorage for our fhips, or a landing-place for our boats. In
tliis pofition, I fent Lieutenant King, with two armed boats,
to found and reconnoitre the coaft, while we ftood off and
on with the Ihips. The inftant the boats were hoifted out,
our vifiters in the canoes, who had remained along-fide all
the while, bartering their little trifles, fufpended their traf-
fic, and, pufhing for the Ihore as faft as they could, came
near us i;o more.

At ^V> , >'clock, the boats returned; and Mr. King in-
formed ' ^ That there was no anchorage for the fliips ;
and that the boats could only land on the outer edge of the
reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from the dry
land. He faid, that a number of the natives came down
upon the reef, armed with long pikes and clubs, as if they
intended to oppofe his landing. And yet, when he drew
near enough, they threw fome cocoa-nuts to our people,
and invited them to come on fhore ; though, at the very
fame time, he obferved that the women were very bufy
bringing down a frelh fupply of fpears and darts. But, as
he had no motive to land, he did not give them an oppor-
tunity to ufe them."

Having received this report, I confidered, that, as the
fliips could not be brought to an anchor, we fliould find
that the attempt to procure grafs here, would occafion much
delay, as well as be attended with fome danger. Befides,

E e 2 we

2TT

1777-
April.

■}' . !,

I \-

3' T

212

A VOYAGE TO

«777-
April.

I? ' li . ,

we were equally in want of water ; and though the inha-
bitants had told us, that there was water on their 'fland,
yet we neither knew in what quantity, nor from what dif-
tance, we might be t .Jged to fetch it. And, after all,
fuppofing no other obftrudtion, we were fure, that to get
over the reef, would be an operation equally difficult and
tedious.

Being thus difappointed at all the iflands we had met
with, lince our leaving New Zealand, and the unfavour-
able winds, and other unforefeen circiimftances, having
unavoidably retarded our progrefs fo much, it was now
impoffible to think of doing any thing this year, in the
high latitudes of the Northern hemifphere, from which
we were ftill at fo great a diilance, though the feafon for
our operations there was already begun. In this fituation,
it was abfolutely neceffary to purfue fuch meafures as were
moft likely to prefei-ve the cattle we had on board, in the
firlT: place ; and, in the next j^lace (which was ftill a more
capital objedl), to fave the ftores and provifions of the fliips,
that we might be better enabled to profecute our Northern
dilcoveries, which could not now commence till a year
later than was originally intended.

If 1 had been fo fortunate as to have procured a fupply
of water, and of grafs, at any of the iilands we had lately
vifited, it was rny purpole to ha\ e ftood back to the South,
till I had met with a Wcfterly wind. But the certain con-
fequence of doing this, Avithout fuch a fupply, would have
been the lofs of all the cattle, before we could poffibly
reach Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage, with
regard to tlie great objed: of our voyage.

I, therefore, determined to bear away for the Friendly
Iflands, where I was fure of meeting with abiuidance of

every

IV-

THE PACIFrC OCEAN.

213

'777-
April.

every thing I wanted : and it being neceffary to run in the
night, as well as in the day, I ordered Captain Gierke to
keep about a league ahead of the Refolution. I ufed this
precaution, becaufe his Ihip could beft claw off the land ;
and it was very poflible we might fall in with fome, in our
pafTage.

The longitude of Hervey's Ifland, when firft difcovered,
deduced from Otaheite, by the time-keeper, was found to
be 201° 6' Eaft, and now, by the fame time-keeper, dedviced
from Queen Charlotte's Sound, 200° 56' Eaft. Hence 1 con-
clude, that the error of the time-keeper, at this time, did
not exceed twelve miles in longitude.

When we bore away, I fteered Weft by South, with a
fine breeze Eafterly. 1 propofed to proceed firft to Middls"-
burgh, or Eooa ; thinking, if the wind continued favour-
able, that we had food enough on board, for the cattle, to
laft till we fliould reach that ifland. But, about noon, next
day, thofe faint breezes, that had attended and retarded us Monday 7.
fo long, again returned ; and I found it neceffary to haul
more to the North, to get into the latitude of Palmerfton'a
and Savage Iflands, difcovered in 1774, during my laft voy-
age ■'••• ; that, if necelfity required it, we might have re-
courfe to them.

This day, in order to fave our water, I ordered the ftill to
be kept at work, from fix o'clock in the morning to four
in the afternoon ; during which time, we procured from
thirteen to fixteen gallons of frelh water. There has been
lately made Ibme improvement, as they are pleafed to call
it, of this machine, which, in my opinion, is much for the
vvorfe.

Thefe light breezes continued till the loth, when we Thurfday lo.

* See Cook's Vopge, Vol. ii. p. 2. 3.

had,

if
11

i'3
H

('!'':

*'',i.'

ii4

A VOYAGE TO

had, for Ibme hours, the wind blowing frefli from the
North, and North North Weft ; being then in the lati-
tude of t8' 38', and longitude 198° 24' Eall. In the after-
noon, we had fome thunder fqualls from the South, at-
tended with heavy rain ; of which water we colle<5lf d
enough to fill five puncheons. After thefe fqualls had
blown over, the wind came round to tlie North Eaft, and
North Well ; being very unfettled both in Itrength and iti
Friday II. pofition, till about noon the next day, when it fixed at
North Weft, and North North Weft, and blew a frefli
breeze, with fau' weather.

Thus were we perfecuted with a wind in our teeth,
N\ hichever way we directed our courfe ; and we had the
additional mortification to find here, thofu very winds,
which w^e had reafon to expedl 8' or 10° farther South.
They came too late ; for I durft not trvift their continuance ;
and the event proved that I judged right.
Siinday 13. At length, at day-break, in the morning of the 13th, we
faw Palmerfton Illand, bearing Weft by South, diftant about
five leagues. However, we did not get up with it, till eight
Monday 14. o'clock. the uext morning. I then fent four boats, three
from the Refolution, and one from the Difcovery, with an
officer in each, to fearch the coaft for the moft convenient
landing-place. For, now, we were under an abfolute necef-
fity of procuring, from this ifland, fome food for the cattle ;
otherwife we muft have loft them.

What is comprehended under the name of Palmerfton's
Ifland, is a group of fmall illots, of which there are, in
the wliole, nine or ten, lying in a circular diredlion, and
connected together by a reef of coral rocks. The boats firft
examined the South Eafternmoft of the iflots which com-
pofc this grouj> ; and, f;uling there, ran down to the fecond,

where

■ n

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

where we had the fatisfadion to fee them land. I then
bore down with the fhips, till abreaft of the place, and
there we kept ftanding off and on. For no bottom was to
be found to anchor upon ; which was not of much confe-
quence, as the party who had landed from our boats, were
the only human beings upon the ifland.

About one o'clock, one of the boats came on board, laden
with Icurvy-grafs and young cocoa-nut trees ; which, at
this time, was a feaft for the cattle. The fame boat
brought a meflage from Mr. Gore, who commanded the
party, informing me, that there was plenty of fuch pro-
duce upon the illand, as alio of the wharra tree, and fome
cocoa-nvits. This determined me to get a good fupply
of thefe articles, before I quitted this ftation ; and, before
evening, I went afhore in a fmall boat, accompanied by
Captain Clerke.

We found every body hard at work, and the landing
place to be in a fmall creek, formed by the reef, of fome-
thing more than a boat's length in every dircdlion, and co-
vered from the force of the fea, by rocks projecting out on
each fide of it. The ifland is fcarcely a mile in circuit ; and
not above three feet higher than the level of the fea. It
appeared to be compofed entirely of a coral fand, with a
fmall mixture of blackifli mould, produced from rotten ve-
getables. Notwithftanding this poor foil, it is covered with
trees and buflies of the fame kind as at Wenooa-ette, though
with lels variety ; and amongft thefe are fome cocoa palms.
Upon the trees or buflies that front the fea, or even farther
in, we found a great number of men of war birds. Tropic
birds, and two forts of boobies, which, at this time, were
laying their eggs, and fo tame, that they fuffered us to take
them off with our hands. Their nefts were only a few

iUcks

ai5

1777'
April.

«[ i'Q

hm M r

^w r

[^ '

7 ;^-

m..: ,

'.\6

•777-
April.

A VOYAGE TO

fticks loofely put together ; and the Tropic birds laid their
eg^;s on the ground, under the trees. Thefe differ much
from the common fort, being entirely of a moll fplendid
white, nightly tinged with red, and having the two long
tail-feathers of a deep crimfon or blood colour. Of each
fort, nur people killed a confiderable number ; and, though
not the moft delicate food, they were acceptable enough to
us who had been long confined to a fait diet, and w^ho,
confequently, could not but be glad of the moft indifferent
variety. We met with vart numbers of red crabs, creeping
about, every where amongft the trees ; and we caught fc-
veral fifli that had been left in holes upon the reef, when
the &a retired.

At one part of the reei\ which looks into, or bounds, the
lake that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almoft
even with the furface, which afforded, perhaps, one of the
moft enchanting profpecfts, that Nature has, any where,
produced. Its bafe wati fixed to the fliore, but reached fo
far in, that it could not be feen ; fo that it feemed to be
fufpended in the water, which deepened fo fuddenly, that,
at the dirtance of a few yards, there might be fewcn or
eight fathoms. The fea was, at this time, quite unruffled ;
and the fun, fliining bright, expofed the various forts of
coral, in the moft beautiful order ; fome parts branching
into the water with great luxuriance ; others lying col-
lected in round balls, and in various other figures ; all
which were greatly heightened by fpangles of the richert
colours, that glowed from a number of large clams, which
were every where interf])crfed. But the appearance of
thefe was ftill inferior to that of the multitude of filhes,
that glided gently along, feemingly with the moft perfect
fecurity. The colours of the difl'erent forts were the moft

beautiful

.!•:. X^ :

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

217

'^'w^HH^^H

•777;
April.

beautiful that can be imagined ; the yellow, blue, red,
black, &c. far exceeding any thing that art can produce.
Their various forms, alfo, contributed to increafe the rich-
nefs of this fubmarine grotto, which could not be furveyed
without a pleafing tranfport, mixed, however, with regret,
that a work, fo ftupendoully elegant, Ihould be concealed,
in a place where mankind could feldom have an oppor-
tvmity of rendering the praifes juftly due to fo enchanting
a fcene.

There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been
here ; if we except a fmall piece of a canoe that was
found upon the beach ; which, probably, may have drifted
from fome other illand. But, what is pretty extraordi-
nary, we faw feveral fmall brown rats on this fpot ; a cir-
cumftance, perhaps, difficult to account for, unlefs we allow
that they were imported in the canoe of which we faw the
remains.

After the boats were laden, I returned on board, leaving
Mr. Gore, with a party, to pafs the night on fliore, in order
to be ready to go to work early the next morning.

That day, being the 15th, was accordingly fpent, as the Tuefdayij.
preceding one had been, in colIe(5ling, and bringing on
board, food for the cattle, confifting chiefly of palm-cab-
bage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the tender branches of
the wbarra tree. Having got a fufficient fupply of thefe,
by funfet, I ordered every body on board. But having little
or no wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the next
day, by endeavouring to get fome cocoa-nuts for our peo-
ple, from the next illand to leeward, where we could ob-
fei^ve that thofc trees were in much greater abimdance,
than upon that where we had already landed, and where
only the wants of our cattle had been relieved.

Vol. I. F f With

'I
(I

nv.:

*' '1

:t'ltki ■'■!■

i t

I H

3l8

•777-
April.

W.dnef. 16.

Thurfdayj;.

A VOYAGE TO

With this view, I kept ftanding off and on, all night ;
and, in the morning, between eight and nine o'clock, 1
went with the boats to the Well fide of the illand, and
landed with little difficulty. I immediately fet the people
with me to work, to gather cocoa-nuts, which we found in
great abundance. But to get them to our boats was a
tedious operation ; for we were obliged to carry them at
leall half a mile over the reef, up to the middle in wa-
ter. Omai, who was with me, caught, with a Icoop net,
in a very fliort time, as much fifli as IcMved the whole
party on fliore for dinner, befides fending fome to both
fliips. Here were alfo great abundance of birds, particu-
larly men-of-war and Tropic birds ; fo that n e fared lump-
tuouily. And it is but doing juftice to Omai to fay, that,
in thefe excurfions to the uninhabited illands, he was of
the greateft ufe. For he not only caught the fifh, but
drefled thefe, and the birds we killed, in an oven, with
heated (tones, after the fafliion of his covmtry, with a
dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. The
boats made two trips, before night, well laden ; with the
laft, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Williamfon, my
third Lieutenant, with a party of men, to prepare ano-
ther lading for the boats which I propofed to fend next
nlorning.

I, accordingly, difpatched them at feven o'clock, and they
returned laden by noon. No time was loft in fending them
back for another cargo ; and they carried orders for every
body to be on board by funfet. This being complied with,
we hoiftcd in the boats and made fail to the Weftward, with
a light air of wind from the North.

We found this iilot near a half larger than the other, and
almoft entirely covered with cocoa-palms ; the greateft part

-;ti'

■v„tv .*

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

of which abounded with excellent nuts, having, often, both
old and young on the fame tree. They were, indeed, too
thick, in many places, to grow with freedom. The other
produiSlions were, in general, the fame as at the other iflot.
Two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, with
an elliptical paddle, %vere found on the beach. Probably,
thefe had belonged to the fame canoe, the remains of which
were feen on the other beach, as the two illots are not above
half a mile apart. A young turtle had alfo been lately
thrown alhore here, as it was Hill full of maggots. There
were fewer crabs than at the laft place ; but we found fome
fcorpions, a few other infe<5ts, and a greater number of fifh
upon the reefs. Amongft thefe were fome large eels, beau-
tifully fpotted, which, when followed, would raife them-
felves out of the water, and endc.ivour, with an open mouth,
to bite their purfuers. The other forts were, chiefly, par-
rot-filh, fnappers, and a brown fpotted rock-fifli, about the
fize of a haddock, fo tame, that inftead of fwimming away,
it would remain fixed, and gaze at us. Had we been in ab-
folute want, a fufficient fupply might have been had ; for
thoufands of the clams, already mentioned, ftuck uix)n the
reef, fome of which weighed two or three pounds. There
were, bcfides, fome other forts of fliell-fifh ; particularly,
the large periwincklc. When the tide floweii, feveral fharks
came in, over the leef, fome of which our people killed ;
but they rendered it rather dangei <us to walk in the water
at that time.

The party w^ho were left on fliore with Mr. Williamfon,
were a good deal peftered (as Mr. Gore's had been) with
mufcpiitoes, in the night. Some of them, in their excur-
fions, fhot two curlews, exadliy like thofe of England ; and
faw fome plovers, or fand-pipers, upon the fhore ; but, in

F f 2 the

ai9

«777-
ApnI.

f.. L

aso

"777-
April.

^-«

,1 ■

1 ,

'1^

i p

fe.

A VOYAGE TO

the wood, no other bird, bcfidcs one or two of the ruckoos
that were iccn at Wenooa-ette.

Upon the whole, wc did not fi)cnd our time iin profitably
at this laft illot ; for we got there about twelve luuuhed
cocoa-nuts, which were e(}ually divided anionglt the whole
crew; and w^re, doubtlcfs, of great ule to them, both on
account of the juice and of the kernel. A Ihij), therefore,
palling this v\ ay, if the weather be moderate, may expedl
to fut ceed as we did. But there is no water uixiu either of
the illots where we landed. Were that article to be had,
and a paflage could be got into the lake, as we may c;ill
it, furrounded by the reef, where a fliip could anchor, 1
fliould prefer this to any of the iidiabitcd iflands, if the
only want were refrefliment. For the quantity of filh
that might be procured, would be fuflicient ; and the peo-
ple might roam about, unmolelled by the petulance of any
inhabitants.

The nine or ten low illots, comprehended under the
name of Palmeriton's liland, may be reckoned the heads
or fummits of the reef of coral rock, that conneds them
together, covered only with a thin coat of land, yet clothed,
as already obferved, with trees and plants, moil of which
are of the fame forts that are found on the low grounds of
the high Hlands of this ocean.

There are different opinions, amongft ingenious theorifts,
concerning the formation of fuch low illands as Palmer-
fton's. Some will have it, that, in remote times, thcfe little
feparate heads or illots were joined, and formed one conti-
nued and more elevated tradl of land, which the fea, in the
revolution of ages, has waflied away, leaving only the
higher grounds ; which, in time, alio, will, according to
this theory, fliai'e the lame fate. Another conjedlure is,

that

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

that they have been thrown up hy earthquakes, and arc the
eft'edt of internal conviiHions of the globe. A third opi-
nion, and which appears to me as tlie moll probable one,
maintains, that they are formed from (hoals, or coral banks,
and, of confecpientc, intrcaling. Without mentioning the
feveral arguments made iiic of in I'uppoit of each of thefe
fyllems, 1 fliall only delcribe fuch parts of Palmerflon's
llland, as fell umler my own obfervation when 1 landed
upon it.

The foundation is, every where, a coral rock ; the foil is
coral land, with which the decayed vegetables hav., but in
a few places, intermixed, lb as to form any thing like mould.
From this, a very llrt)ng prelumption may be drawn, that
thefe little fpots of land, are not of very ancient dr.; e, nor
the remains of larger illands now buried in the ocean. For,
upon either of thefe fuppofitions, more moidd mult have
been formed, or fome part of the original foil would hav^
remained. Another circumllance confirmed this dodtrii c
of the increafe of thefe illots. We found upon them, fur
beyond the prefent reach of the lea, even in the moft vio-
lent ftorms, elevated coral rocks, which, on examination,
appeared to have been perforated, in the fame manner that
the rocks are, that now compofe the outer edge of the reel.
This evidently Ihews, that the fea had formerly reached fo
far ; and fome of thefe perforated rocks were almoft in the
centre of the land.

But the ftrongeft proof of the increafe, and from the
caufe we have alligned, was the gentle grad ion obferv-
able in the i)lants round the fkirts of the lii . ids ; from
within a few inches of liigh-water mark, to the edge of the
wood. In many places, the divifions of the plants, of dif-
ferent growths, were very diftinguilhablr, elpecially on the'

3 l(^e,

322

A VOYAGE TO

April.

Ice, or weft-fide. This I apprehend to have been the ope-
ration of extraordinary high tides, occafioned by violent,
accidental gales from the Weftward ; which have heaped
up the fand beyond the reach of common tides. The re-
gular and gentle operation of thefe latter, again, thro ' up
fand enough to form a barrier againft the next extraordi-
nary high tide, or ftorm, fo as to prevent its reaching as far
as the former had done, and deftroying the plants that may
have begun to vegetate from cocoa-nuts, roots, r i feed
brought thither by birds, or thrown up by the fea. This,
doubtlefs, happens very frequently ; for we found many
cocoa-nuts, and fome other things, juft fprouting up, only
a few inches beyond where the fea reaches at prefent, in
places where, it was evident, they could not have had their
origin from thofe, farther in, already arrived at their full
growth. At the fame time, the increaie of vegetables will
add faft to the height of this new-created land ; as the fallen
leaves, and broken branches, are, in fuch a climate, foon
converted into a true black mould, or foil *.

Perhaps there is another caufe, which, if allowed, will

* Mr. Anderfon, in his Journal, mentions the following particulars, relative to Palmer-
fton's Ifland, which ftrongly confirm Captain Cook's opinion about its formation. " On
" the laft of the two iflots, where we landed, the trees, being in great numbers, had al-
" ready formed, by their rotten parts, little rifings or eminences, which, in time, from the
" fame caufe, may become fmall hills. Whereas, on vhe firft iflot, the trees being lefs
" numerous, no fuch thing had, as yet, happened. Neverihelels, on that little fpot, tlie
" manner of formation was more plainly pointed out. For, adjoining to it, was a fmall
" iflc, which had, doubtlcCs, been very lately formed ; as it was not, as yet, covered with
" any trees, but had a great many flirubs, fome of which were growin^ among pieces of
" coral that the (ca had thrown up. There was ftill a more fure proof of this method of
" formation a little farther on, where two patches of fand, about fifty yards long, and a
<' foot or eighteen inches high, lay upon the reef, but not, as yet, furniflied with a finglc
" bufli, or tree."

accelerate

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

223

accelerate the increafe of thefe iflands as much as any other;
and will alfo account for the fea having receded from thofe
elevated rocks before-mentioned. This is, the fpreading of
the coral bank, or reef, into the fea; which, in my opi-
nion, is continually, though imperceptibly, effedted. The
waves receding, as the reef grows in breadth and height,
leave a dry rock behind, ready for the reception of the
broken coral and fand, and every other depofit neceffary
for the formation of land fit for the vegetation of plants.

In this manner, there is little doubt, that, in time, the
whole reef will become one ifland ; and, I think, it will ex-
tend gradually inward, either from the increafe of the iflots
already formed ; or from the formation of new ones, upon
the beds of coral, within the inclofed Like, if once they in-
creafe fo as to rife above the level of the fea.

After leaving Palmerfton's lUand, I fleered Weft, with a
view to make the belt of my way to Annamooka. We ftill
continued to have variable winds, frequently between the
North and Weft, with fqualls, fome thunder, and much
lain. During thefe fliowers, which were, generally, Very
copious, we faved a confiderable quantity of water; and
finding that we could get a greater fupply by the rain, in
one hour, than we could get by diftillation in a month, I
laid afide the ftill, as a thing attended with more trouble
than profit.

The heat, which had been great for about a month, be-
came now much more difagreeable in this clofe rainy wea-
ther ; and, from the moifture attending it, threatened foon
to be noxious ; as the Ihips could not be kept dry, nor the
fk littles open, for the fea. However, it is remarkable
enough, that though the only refrefhment we had received
fmce leaving the Cape ol" Good Hoj^c, wris that at New Zea-
land;

April.

'.'1 ■ it

'Ir'

1777-
April.

Thurfday 24.
Friday 25.
Monday 28.

A VOYAGE TO

land ; there was not, as yet, a fingle perfon, on board,,
fick, from the conftant ufe of fait food, or vicifiitude of
climate.

In the night between the 24th and 25th we pafled Savage
Illand, which I had difcovered in 1774*; and on the 28th,.
at ten o'clock, in the morning, we got fight of the illands
which lie to the Eaftward of Annamooka, bearing North by
Weft, about four or five leagues diftant. I fteered to the
South of thefe illands, and then hauled up for Annamooka;
Which, at four in the afternoon, bore North Weft by North,
Fallafajeea South Weft by South, and Komango North by
Weft, diftant about five miles. The weather being fqually,
with rain, I anchored, at the approach of night, in fifteen
fathoms deep water, over a bottom of coral-fand, and
ihells ; Komango bearing North Weft, about two leagues
diftant.

* For an account of the difcovery of Savage Ifland ; a defcription of it ; and the
behaviour of its inhabitants, on Captain Cook's landing, fet; his Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 3.
top. 7.

CHAP.

The pacific ocean.

CHAP. IV.

Intercourfe ivith the Natives of Komango^ and other JJlonds.
— Arrival at Annamooka. — Tranfa&ions there. — Feemu,
a principal Chief , from Tongataboo, comes on a Vift. — The
Manner of his Reception in the Ifland, and on board.-^
Inflances of the pilfering Difpojltion of the Natives. — Some
Account of Annamooka, — The Pajfuge from it to Hapaee.

23?

1 ^' 'H

1 :'■

\ if
' !

»777-
April.

SOO N after we had anchored, two canoes, the one with
four, and the other with three men, paddled toward
us, and came along-lide without the leaft hefitation. They Monday zs.
brought fome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and fugar-
cane, which they bartered with us for nails. One of the
men came on board ; and when thefe canoes had left us,
another vifited us ; but did not ftay long, as night was ap-
proaching. Komango, the illand neareft to us, was, at leaft,
five miles off; which fliews the hazard thefe people would
run, in order to polTefs a few of our moft trifling ar-
ticles. Befides this fupply from the fliore, we caught, this
evening, with hooks and lines, a conliderable quantity of
fifli.

Next morning, at four o'clock, I fent Lieutenant King, Tuefday 23.
with two boats, to Komango, to procure refrefliments ;
and, at five, made the fignal to weigh, in order to ply up
to Annamooka, the wind being unfavourable at North
Weft.

Vol. I. G g It

2,26

1777-
April.

P'.

' i

«! •

A VOYAGE TO

It was no Iboner day-light, than we were vifitcd by fix or
feven canoes from different iflands, bringing with them,
befides fruits and roots, two pigs, fcveral fowls, fome large
wood-pigeons, fmall rails, and large violet-coloured coots.
All thefe they exchanged with us for beads, nails, hatchets,
Sec. They had alfo other articles of commerce ; fuch as
pieces of their cloth, filh-hooks, fmall balkets, mulical
reeds, and fome clubs, fpears, and bows. But I ordered,
that no curiolities Ihould be purchafed, till the fliips lliould
be fupplied with provifions, and leave given for that pur-
pofe. Knowing, alfo, from experience, that, if all oar
people might trade with the natives, according to their
own caprice, perpetual quarrels would enfue, I ordered
that particular pcrfons fliould manage the traffic both on
board and on fliore, prohibiting all others to interfere.
Before mid-day, Mr. King's boat returned with feven hogs>
fome fowls, a quanticy of finiit and roots for oarfelves, and
fome grafs for the cattle. His party was very civilly treated
at Komango. The inhabitants did not fcem to be nume-
rous ; and their huts, which flood clofe to each other,
within a plantain walk, were but indifferent. Not far from
rhcm, was a pretty large pond of frcfli water, tolerably
good ; but there was not any apjiearance of a flream.
With Mr. King, came on board the Chief of the ifland,
named Tooboulangee ; and another, whole name was Taipa.
They brought with them a hog, as a prefent to me, and
proniifed more the next day.

As loon as the boats were a])oard, I flood for Anna-
mooka ; and the wind being ftant, I intended to go be-
tween Annamooka-ette •■•■, and the breakers to the South
lvA\ of it. But, on drawing near, we met with very irre-

* Tliat is, Liitlo AnnamooLi.

gular

THE PACIFIC ocean:

227

>777-
April.

gular foundings, varying, every caft, ten or twelve fathoms.
This obliged me to give up the defign, and to go to the
Southward of all ; which carried us to leeward, and made
it neceffary to fpend the night imder fail. It was very
dark ; and we had the wind, from every direcStion, accom-
panied with heavy fhowers of rain. So that, at day-light
the next morning, we found ourfelves much farther off Wednef. 3a.
than we had been the evening before ; and the little wind
that now blew, was right in our teeth.

We continued to ply, all day, to very little purpofe ; and,
in the evening, anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water;
the bottom coral rocks, and broken fhells ; the Weft point
of Annamooka bearing Eaft North Eaft, four miles diftant.
Tooboulangee and Taipa kept their promife, and brought
off to me fome hogs. Several others were alfo procured by
bartering, from different canoes that followed us ; and as
much fruit as we could well manage. It was remarkable,
that, during the whole day, our vifiters from the iflands
would hardly part with any of their commodities to any
body but me. Captain Clerke did not get above one or
two hogs.

At four o'clock next morning, I ordered a boat to be May.
hoifted owtj and fent the Mafter to found the So\ith Wefl '^^"'^^^^ '"
fide of Annamooka ; where there appeared to be a har-
bour, formed by the iiland on the North Eaft, and by fmall
iftots, and flioals, to the South Weft and South Eaft. In
the mean time, the fhips were got under fail, and wrought
up to the ifland.

When the ?vlafter returned, he reported, that he had
founded between Great and Little Annamooka, where he
found ten and twelve fathom - depth of water, the bottom
coral fand ; that the place was ^ ;r ; well flieltercd from all

G g 2 winds ;

■i -..tVi

•m-

A-

ftaS

'777-
May.

A VOYAGE TO

winds ; but that there was no frefh water to be found, ex-
cept at fome diftance inland ; and that, even there, little of
it was to be got, and that little not good. For this reafon
only, and it was a very fufficient one, 1 determined to an-
chor on the North fide of the ifland, where, during my
laft voyage, I had found a place fit both for watering ai\d
landing.

It was not above a league diflant ; and yet we slid not
reach it till live o'clock in the afternoon, being confiderably
retarded b) tlic great number of canoes that contiimally
crowded amnd :he fliips, bringing to vis abundant fiippli;:;s
of the produ.ce jf their iiland. Amongfl thcfe canoes, there
were fome doviblc onesj v,;ith a large fail, that carried be-
tween forty and fifty men eajt\. Tbele failed round us,
apparently, with the fame c^fc, as if wc had been at an-
chor. TJicre weie fevt;ral women in the canoes, who were,
perhaps, incited by curiofity to viilt vis; though, at the
fame time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and ufed
the padtlle with e;jual labovir and dexterity. I came to an
an<b.or in eighteen fnithoms water, the bottom coarfe coral
fand , the illand extending from Eail to South Wefl ; and
the Weft yannt of the Wefternmoft cove South Eart, about
three qitrrters of a mile diflant. Thus I relumed the very
lame il-vdon wiiich I had occupied v\ lien I vifited Anna-
mooka three years before '^ ; and, probably, almoft in the
iame place where Tafman, the tirfl dilcoverer of this, and
fome of the ncighboviring iflands, anchored in 1643 f.

1 he following day, while preparations were making for

• See Caj'taiti Cook's l:tft Vopge, Vol. ii. p. 9.

f Sec Taf'nan'j account of this iflarul, in Mr. Dalryniple's valuable Colloflion of"
Voyages to the Pacific Ocean, Vol. ii. p. 79, 80. The few particulars mentioned by
Talinan, agree remarkably with Captain Cook's more exttmled relation.

watering,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

229

1777.

May.

Watering, I went afliore, in the forenoon, accompanied by
Captain Gierke, and fome of the Officers, to fix on a place
where the obfervatories might be fet up, and a guard be Friday 2
ftationcd ; the natives having readily given us leave. They
alfo accommodated us with a boat-houfe, to ferve as a tent,
and fhewed us every other mark, of civility. Toobou, the
Chief of the iiland, condu6ted me and Omai to his houfe.
We found it fuuated on a pleafant fpot, in the centre of his
plantation. A fine grafs-plot furrounded it, which, he
gave us to underlland, was for the purpofe of cleaning
their feet, before they went within doors. I had not, be-
fore, oljfcrved fuch an inftance of attention to cleanlinefs
at any of the places I haxl villted in tliis ocean ; but, after-
ward, found that it was very common at the Friendly
Iflands. The floor of Toobou's houfe was covered wich
mats; and no carpet, in the moll elegant En^lilh diawing-
room, could be kept neater. While we were on Ihore, we
procured a few hogs, and fome fruit, by bartering ; and,.
before we got on board again, the fliips were crowded with
the natives. Few of them coming empty-handed, every
necefTary refrefliment was now in the greateft plenty.

I landed again in the afternoon, with a party of ma-
rines ; and, at the fame time, the horfes, and fvich of the
cattle as were in a weakly ftate, were fcnt on fliore. Every
thing being fettled to my fatisfadion, 1 returned to the
fliip at funfet, leaving the command upon the ifland to
Mr. King. Taipa, who was now become our faft friend,
anil who feemcd to be the only a£tive pcrfon about us,
m order to be near our party in the night, as .veil as the
day, had a houfe brought, on men's flioulders, a full
quarter of a mile, and placed dofe to the flicd which our
party occujiied.

'■'". '.

230

A VOYAGE TO

H,,

«777-
Mav.

iJatuitUy J.

Next day, our various operations on (hore began. Some
were employed in making hay for the cattle ; others in fill-
ing our water cafks at the neighbouring ftagnant pool ;
and a third party in cutting wood. The greatelt plenty of
this laH article being abrealt of the Ihips, and in a fituation
the moll convenient for getting it on board, it was natural
to make choice of this. But the trees here, which oiu*
people erroncoully fupixjied to be manchineel, but were a
fptcies of pepper, called faitamo by the natives, yielded a
juice of a milky colour, of lb corrofive a nature, that it
railed blillers on the Ikin, and injured the eyes of our
workmen. They were, therefore, obliged to delift at this
place, and remove to the cove, in which our guiird was
rtatioiied, and where we embarked our water. Other wood,
more fuitable to our purpofes, was there furniflicd to us
by the natives. Thefc were not the only employments we
were engaged in, for MefTrs. King and Bayly began, this
dav, to obferve equal altitudes of the fun, in order to get
the rate of the time-keepers. In the evening, before the
natives retired from our poit, Taipa harangued them for
fome time. We could only guel's at the Aibjccfl: ; and
judged, that he was initrudling them how to behave to-
ward us, and encouraging them to bring the produce of the
iiland to market. We experienced the good ettecl:s of his
eloquence, in the plentiful fupply of provilions which,
next day, we received.

Nothing worth notice ha])pcned on the 4th and 5th,
Mondays. ^.^^ ept that, ou the former pf thefe days, the Difcovery
Jolt her ini;ill bower anc))or, the cable being cut in two
)f)y tlie rocks. This misfortune made it necelfiiry to exa-
mine the cables of the Reiolution, which were found to
be unhurt.

Siindny 4.

:"u

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

431

«777-
May.

On the 6th, we were vifited by a great Chief from Ton-
gataboo, vvhofe name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was
pleated to introduce to us as King of all the Friendly Hies. Tucfday6.
I was now told, that, on my arrival, a canoe had been
difpatched to Tongataboo with the news ; in confcquence
of which, this Chief immediately paffed over to Anna-
mooka. The Officer on fhore informed me, that when
he firft arrived, all the natives were ordered out to meet
him, and paid their obtifance by bowing their heads as
low as his feet, the foles of v hich they alfo touched with
each hand, firlt with the palm, and then with the back
part. There could be little room to fufpecft that a perfon,
received with fo much refped, could be any thing lefs
than the King.

In the afternoon, I went to pay this great man a vifit,
having firll received a prefent of two filli from him,
brought on board by one of his lervants. As foon as I
landed, he came up to me. He appeared to be about
thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had more of the
European features, than any I had yet fcen here. When
the firft falutation was over, 1 alked if he was the King.
For, notwithftanding what 1 had been told, finding he was
not the man whom 1 remembered to have fcen under that
cliara(Ster during my former voyage, I 'ocgan to entertain
doubts. Taipa officially anfwered for him, and enume-
rated no lefs than one htmdred and lifty-three iflands, of
which, he faid, Feenovi was the Sovereign, \fter a lliort
ftay, our new vifiter, and five or fi\ of his attendants, ac-
companied me on board. I gave fuitablc prelents to them
all, and entertained them in fucli a manner, as I thought
would be moll agreeable.

In the evening, I attended them on fliorc in my boat,

into

231

A VOYAGE TO

If?"

M.u.

: mif

i' >' J( i

■ir:iii..-. 'ifi

w :

'^ (,

Wcdnef. 7.

Thurfday 8.

intr) uhkh tlic Chief ordered three hogs to be j)Ut, as a
return tor the prclents he had received from me. I was
now intbrmed of an accident whi»h hatl jull hajipened,
the relation of which will convey lont iilea of the extent
of the authority excrcifed here over the common people.
While Fecnoii was on board my Ibip, an inferior Chief,
ibr what rcafon our people on fliore did not know, ordered
nil the natives to retire from the polt we occupied. Some
of them having ventured to return, he took i.; large
llick, and l)eat tlum moft unmercifully. He Ihiick. one
man, on the iide of the face, with fo much violence, that
the blootl gulhec'. out of his mouth and noibils; and, after
lying ft)me time ii otionlefs, he was, at laft, removed from
the place, in ronvvdlions. The penon who had inflicted
the blow, being told that he had killed the man, only
laughed at it ; and, it was evident, that he was not in the
Icalt lorry for what had happened. Wc heard, afterward,
that the jjoor fufl'erer recovered.

The Difcovery having found again her fniall bower an-
chor, Ihifted her birth on the yth ; but not before her bell
' ower cable had lliared the fate of the other. This day, I
had the comj^any of Feenou at dinner ; and alfo the next
day, when he was attended by Taipa, Toobou, and Ibme
other Chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was al-
lowed to fit at tal)le w ith him, or even to tat in his prefence.
I own that 1 conlldered Feenou as a very convenient gueft,
on account of this etiquette. I'or, before hi" UTival, 1 had,
generally, a larger company than I could well find room
for, and my table overflowed with crowds of both fexes.
For it is not the cuftom at the Friendly lllands, as it is at
Otaheite, to deny to their females the privilege of eating
in company with the men.

I The

\ " '^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

»33

1777'
May.

The firft day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the
natives had ftolen, out of the fliip» a large junk axe. I now
applied to Feenou to exert his authority to get it rcftored to
me ; and fo implicitly was he obeyed, that it was brought
on board while we Avere at dinner. Thefe people gave us
very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert
thieves they were. Even Ibme of thrir Chiefs did not think
this profellion beneath them. On the 9th, one of them Friday 9.
was detected carrying out of the fliip, concealed under his
clothes, the bolt belonging to the fpun yarn winch ; for
which I fentenced him to receive a dozen laflies, and kept
him confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. After this,
we were not troubled with thieves of rank. Their fervants,
or ilaves, however, were Hill employed in this dirty work ;
and upon them a flogging feemed to make no greater im-
preflion, than it would have done upon the main-maft.
When any of them happened to be caught in the a<5l, their
mailers, far from interceding for them, would often advife
us to kill them. As this was a punilhment we did not
choofe to infli<^t, they generally efcaped without any pu-
nifliment at all ; for they appeared to us to be equally infen-
iible of the fliame, and of the pain of corporal chaltifement.
Captain Gierke, at laft, hit upon a mode of treatment,
which, we thought, had lime effe6t. He put them under
the han<' . of the barber, and completely fliaved their heads;
thus pointing them out as objedls of ridicule to their coun-
trymen, and enabling our people to deprive them of futvu'e
opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries, by keeping
them at a diltance.

Feenou was fo fond of aflbciating with us, that he diiud
on board every day ; though, fometimes, he did not partake
of our fare. On the loth, lome of his fervants brougiit a Saturday n

Vol. I. H h mefs,

iff

$'l

t*n

*34

A VOYAGE TO

«777-
May.

¥1

* 1

Sunday 1 1

mefs, which had l)ecn dreffcd for him on Ihorc. It confifted
of fifli, foup, and yams. Inltcad of common water to make
the foup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made ufe of, in which
the filh had been boiled or dewed ; probably in a wooden
veiFcl, with hot Hones ; but it was carried on board in a
plantain leaf. I tailed of the mcfs, and found it fo good,
that I, afterward, had Ibme fifli dreffed in the fame way.
Though my cook fucceeded tolerably well, he could pro-
duce nothing equal to the tlifli he imitated.

Finding that wc had quite exhaufted the ifland, of almoft
every article of food that it attbrded, 1 employed the nth
in moving off, from the Ihore, the horfes, obfervatories, and
other things that we had landed, as alfo the party of ma-
rines who had mounted guard at our ftation, intending to
fail, as foon as the Difcovery Ihould have recovered her bell
bower anchor. Feenou, underftanding that I meant to pro-
ceed dire<5tly to Tongataboo, importuned me ftrongly to
alter this plan, to which he expreflcd as much averfion, as
if he had ibme particular intereft to promote by diverting
me from it. In preference to it, he warmly recommended
an illand, or rather a group of iflands, called Hapaee, lying
to the North Eatt. There, he aflTured us, we could be iiqn
plied plentifully with every refrefliment, in the eafieft
manner; and, to add weight to his advice, he engaged to
attend us thither in perfon. He cartied his point with me ;
and Hapaee w as made choice of for our next ftation. As it
had never been vifited by any European fliii)S, the examina-
tion of it l>ecame an objedl with mc.

The 1 2th, and the 13th, were fpcnt in attempting the re-
covery of Captain Gierke's anchor, which, after much
Wcdncf. 14. trouble, was happily accomplifhed ; and on the T4th, in the
morning, we got under fail, and left Annamooka.

This

Mondny 1 1
Tuef'day 13

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

This illiiiul is ibmewhat higher than the other fmall illcs
tl\at l\irro\iiKl it ; but, Itill, it cannot be admitted to the
rank, of thole of a moderate height, fuch as Mangeea and
Wateeoo. 'I'he fliore, at that part where oin- (hips lay, is
(ompoil'd of a Itecp, rugged coral rock, nine or ten feet
high, except where there are two {l\ndy beaches, \Nhich
have a reef of the fame Ibrt of rock extending crofs their
entrance to tl\e Ihore, and defending them from the Tea.
The fait water lake that is in the centre of the iiland, is
about a mile and a half broad ; anil roiuid it, the land riles
like a bank, with a gradual afcent. But we could not trace
its having any comnumication with the fea. And yet, the
land that runs acrofs to it, from the largell fandy beach,
being flat and low, and the foil fandy, it is moft likely that
it may have, formerly, communicated that way. The foil
on the rifing parts of the ifland, and efpecially toward
the fea, is either of a reddifh clayey difpofition, or a black,
loofe moidd ; but there is, no where, any Itream of frefli
water.

The illand is very well cultivated, except in a few places;
and there are fome others, which, though they appear to
lie wafte, are only left to recover the ftrength exhaurted by
conftant culture ; for we frequently faw the natives at work
upon thefe fpots, to plant them again. The plantations
confift chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of them are
very extcnfive, and often inclofed with neat fences of reed,
<lifpofed obliquely acrofs each other, about fix feet high.
Within thefe we often faw other fences of lefs compafs,
furrounding the houfes of the principal people. The bread-
fruit, and cocoa-nut trees, arc interfperfed with little order;
but chiefly near the habitations of the natives ; and the
other parts of the ifland, efpecially toward the fea, and

H h 2 about

2^5

•777.
May.

U,.

1^
•I

•T

i^} ■

1^.

fkf

1777-
May.

A VOYAGE TO

about the fides of the lake, are covered with trees and
bulhes of a moll hixuriant growth ; the laft place having a
great many mangroves, and the firft a vaft number of the
faitanoo trees already mentioned. There feem to be no
rocks or (tones, of any kind, about the illartd, that are not
coral ; except in one pLice, to the right of the fandy beach,
where there is a rock twenty or thirty feet high, of a cal-
careovis llonc, of a yellowilh colour, and a very clofe texture.
But even about that piacc, which is the higheft part of the
land, are large pieces of the fame coral rock that compofes
the Hiore.

Befides walking frequently up into the country, which
we were permitted to do without interruption, \\e fome-
times amufed ourfelves in fhooting wild ducks, not unlike
the widgeon, which are very numeroub upon the fait lake,
and the pool where we got our water. In thefe excurfions,
we found the inhabitants had often dcferted their houfes to
come down to the trading place, without entertaining any
fufpicion, that flrangers, rambling about, would take away,
or deltroy, any thing that belonged to them. But though,
from this circvmiilance, it might be fuppofed that the
greater part of the natives were fometimcs collected at the
beach, it was iinpoifible to form any accurate computation
of their number; as the continu;il retort of vifiters from
other illands, mixing with them, might eafdy millead one.
However, as there was never, to appearance, above a thou-
fand perfons collected at one time, it would, pcrha}>s, be
fufiicient to allow double that number for the whole iiland.
The place where fuch numbers ailemblcd daily, and the
bay where our boats landed, are faithhdly reprcfcnted in a
drawin;^ by Mr. Webber.

To the Isortii and North Ealt of Annamooka, and in the

dire.a

\H'

i *

I '

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

<lire(Sl track to Hapaee, whither we were now bound, the
fea is fprinkled with a great number of fmall illes. Amidil
the ihoals and rocks adjoining to this group, I coul(i not be
alTured tliat there was a free or f^ii'c palTage for fuch large
Ihips as ours ; tliough the natives failed through the in-
tervals in their canoes. For this fubftantial reafon, when
we weighed anchor from Annamooka, I thought it ne-
ceffary to go to the Weftward of the above illands, and.
ftcered North North Welt, toward Kao ■•':■ and Toofoa, the
two moil Wefterly illands in light, and remarkable for
their great height. Fecnou, and his attendants, remained
on board the Refolution till near noon, when he went into
the large lailing canoe, which had brought him from Ton-
gataboo, and itood in amongft the duller of illands above
mentioned, of which we were now almoft abreall ; and a
tide or ciu'rent from the Weftward had let us, fivQ our
fa'-'uing in the morning, much over toward them.

They lie icattered, at unecpial diftances, and are,' in ge-
neral, nearly as high as Annamooka; but only from two
or three miles, to half a mile in length, and lome of them
fcarcely fo much. They have either lleep rocky flicres
like Annamooka, or reddiih clitfs; but fome have fandy
beaches extending almolt their whole length. Moll of

* As a proof of the greut difficulty of kr owing accurately the exatft names of the
South Sea Iflands, as procured from the native !, I obfervc that what Captain Cook calls
yf^hao, Mr. Andcrfou calls Kno ; and Tafman's drawing, as I find it in Mr. Dalrymple's
Collc(5tion of Voyages, gives the name of Kny/my to the fame idand. Tafman's and
Captain Cook's /Jmutuifoa, is, with Mr. Andcrfou, Tofea. Captain Cook's Konionj.i, is
Tafman's Jiiumgo. There is fcarcely an inllaui v', in wl'.ich fuch variations ave not ob-
fervable. Mr. Anderfon's great attention to matters of this fort being, as we L-arn
from Cafitain King, well known to every body on board, and admitted always by C : ;>:.\n.
Cook himfelf, his mode of f[K'lling has been adopi; J on tlie engra'. ^d chart of the i'ri>.'ndly
Iflands i which has made it nccell'ary to adopt it alfo, in printing the jourjul.

them

237

»777-
May.

238

A VOYAGE TO

«777>
May.

i'^

them are entirely clothed with trees, amongft which are
many cocoa palms, and each forms a prolpeit like a beau-
tiful garden placed in the fca. To heighten this, the ferene
weather we now had, contributed very much; and the
whole might fupi)ly the imagination with an idea of fome
fairy land reaUzed. It fliould feem, that fome of them,
at Icaft. may have been formed, as we fuppofed Palmer-
fton's Illand to have been ; for there is one, which, as yet,
is entirely fand, and another, on which there is only one
bufli, or tree.

At four o'clock in the afternoon being the length of
Kotoo, the Wefternmoil of the above clufter of fmall
illands, we fleered to the North, leaving Toofoa and Kao
on our larboard, keeping along the Weft fide of a reef of
rocks, which lie to the Weftward of Kotoo, till \\c came to
their Northern extremity, round which we hauled in for
the illand. it was our intention to have anchored for the
night ; but it came upon us before we could find a place in
lefs than fifty-five fathoms water; and ratlier than come to
in this depth, 1 chofc tu ipciid the night under fail.

We had, in the afternoon, been within two leagues of
Toofoa, the fmoke of which \vc faw feveral times in the day.
The Friendly Iflanderfi have lome fuperftitious notions about
the volcano upon it, which they call Kollofeea^ and fay it is
an Otooa^ or divinity. According to their account, it fome-
times throws up very large ftones; and they compare the
crater, to the fizc of a fmall illot, which has never ceafed
fmoking in their memory ; nor have they any tradition that
it ever did. We fometimes faw the fmokc rifing from the
centre of the ifland, while we were at Annamooka, though
at the diftance of at leaft ten leagues. Toofoa, we were t(»ld,
is but thinly inhabited, but the water ujwn it is good.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

239

»777«
May.

At day-break the next morning, being then not far from
Kao, which is a vaft rock of a conic figure, we fteered to
the Eaft, for the paffage between the iflands Footooha and Thurfday
Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at South Eaft. About ten
o'clock, Feenou came on board, and remained with us all
day. He brought with him two hogs, and a quantity of
fruit ; and, in the courfe of the day, feveral canoes, from
the different illands round us, came to barter quantities of
the latter article, which was very acceptable, as our ftock
was nearly expended. At noon, our latitude was 19° 49' 45''
South, and we had made feven miles of longitude from Anna-
mooka; Toofoa bore North, 88" Weft; Kao North, 71° Weft ;
Footooha North, 89° Weft; and Hafaiva South, 12° Weft.

After palling Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks ;
and, as there was but little wind, it coft us fome trouble to
keep clear of them. This reef lies between Footooha and
Neeneeva, which is a fmall low ille, in the diredtion of
Eaft North Eaft from Footooha, at the diftance of feven or
eight miles. Footooha is a fmall ifland, of middling height,
and bounded tdl round by a fteep rock. It lies South 67"
Eaft, diftant fix leagues from Kao, and three leagues from
Kotoo, in the direction of North 33° Eaft. Being paft the
reef of rocks juft mentioned, we hauled Lip for Neeneeva,
in hopes of finding anchorage ; but were agu'.u difappoint-
ed, and obliged to fpend the night, making fhort boards.
For, although we had land in every direction, the fea v/as
unfathomable.

In the courfe of this night, we could plainly fee flames
iiTuing from the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great
height.

At day-break in the morning of the i6th, with a gentle Friday i6,
breeze at Sout'i Eaft, we fteered North Eaft for Hapaee,
J which

2^0

A VOYAGE TO

1777-
May.

M'l

Saturday 17.

which was nou in light ; and we could judge it to be low
land, from the trees only apjx^aring above the water.
About aine o'clock ^ve could Ice it plainly forming three
iflands, nearly of an equal fize ; and foon after, a fourth
to the Southward of thefe, as large as the others. Each
feemed to be abovit lix or fcvcn miles long, and of a fimilar
heiglit and appearance. Tue Northernmolt of them is
called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lcfooga, and the
Sourliernmoft Hcolaiva ; but all four are included, by the
natives, under tlie general name Hapace.

The wind icanting uix)n us, Me could not fetch the land ;
fo that we were forced to ply to windward. In doing tiiis,
M'e once palled over fome coral rocks, on which we had
only lix fathoms uater; but the moment we were over
them, found no ground with eighty fathoms of line. At this
time, the illes of Mapaee bore, from North, 50° Eaft, to South,
9"" Welt. We got up with the Northernmolt of thefe ifles by
funfct ; and there fofind ourfelves in the very fame diftrefs,
for want of anchorage, that wc had experienced the two
preceding evenings ; lb that wc had another night to fpend
under fail, with land and breakers in ev'cry dirciftion. To-
ward the cv'cning, Feenou, who had been on board all day,
went forward to Hapaee, and took Omai in the canoe with
him. He chd not forget our difagrecable lituation ; and
kept up a good lire, all night, by way of a Lnd-mark.

As foon as the day-light returned, being then dole in
with Foa, we law it was joinctl to Haanno, by a reef
running even with the furface of the lea, from the one
ifland to the other. I now difpatched a boat to look for an-
chorage. A iiro])cr place was foon found; and we came to,
abrealt of a reef, being that which joins Lefooga to Foa (in
the fame manner that Foa is joined to Haanno), having

twenty-

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

twenty- four fathoms depth of water; the bottom coral
fand. In this ftation, the northern point of Hapaee, or the
North end of Haanno, bore North, i6° Eaft. The So\nhern
point of Hapaee, or the South end of Hoolaiva, South, 29°
Weft ; and the North end of Lefooga, South, 65° Eaft. Two
ledges of rocks lay without us ; the one bearing South,
50° Weft ; and the other Weft by North | North, diftant
two or three miles. We lay before a creek in the reef,
which made it convenient landing at all times ; and we were
not above three quarters of a mile from the lliore.

241

«777'
May.

V ,f.'

Vol. T.

I i

C II A P.

^4-

A VOYAGE TO

' 'I i ^^

Ft ' i

CHAP. V.

Arrival of the Ships at Hapace^ and friendly Reception there. '^
Prefe'i^s and Solemnities on the Occajion. — Single Combats
ivith dubs.—'WrejUing and Boxing Matches. — Female
Co)):'!'^tants. — Marines exercifed. — A Dance performed ./V

i\lcll.

Fircivorks exhibited. — The Nigbt-entcrtaiuments of
and dancifig particularly defcribed.

Saturday 1 7.

i tii>. time we had anchored, the fliips were filled with
the natives, and ivnrounded by a multitude of canoes,
filled alio with them. They brought, from the fliore, hogs,
fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for hatchets,
knivc>, nails, beads, and cloth. Fecnou and Omai having
come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me
to the people of the iiland, I foon accompanied them on
fliore, for that purpofe, landing at the North part of Le-
fooga, a little to the right of the fliip's ftation.

The Chief condxufled me to a houfe, or rather a hut,
fituated dofe to the fea-beach, which 1 had {qcw brought
thither, but a few minutes before, for our reception. In
this Feenou, Omai, and myfelf, were featcd. The other
Chiefs, and the multitude, compofed a circle, on the out-
fide, fronting us ; and they alio lat down. I was then
aiked. Mow long I intended to (lay ? On my laying, Five
days, Taipa was ordered to come and lit by me, and pro-
I claim

THE PACIFIC OCEAN*

243

claim this to the people. He then harangued them, in a
Ipeech mollly (U6tared by Feenou. The purport of it, as I ,
learnt from Omai, was, that they were all, both old and
young, to look upon me as a friend, who intended to re-
main with them a few days ; that, during my ftay, they
mail not Ileal any thing, nor molcil me any other way ; and
that it was expected, they fliould bring hogs, fowls, fruit,
8cc. to the fliips, viiere they would receive, in exchange
for them, fuch ar.. uch things, which he enumerated.
Soon after Taipa had liniflied this addrels to the affembly,
Feenou left us. Taipa then took occafion to fignify to me,,
that it was neccfTary 1 fliould make a prefent to the Chief of
the illand, whofe name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared
for this ; and gave him fuch articles as far exceeded his ex-
pedlation. My liberality to him brought upon me demands,
of the fame kind, from two Chiefs of other ifles who were
prefent ; and from Taipa himfelf. When Feenou returned,
Avhich was immediately after 1 had made the laft of thefe
prefents, he pretended to be angry with Taipa for fuffer-
ing me to give away fo much ; but I looked upon this as a
mere fincffe ; being confident that he adled in concert with
the others. He now took his feat again, and ordered
Earoupa to fit by him, and to harangue the people as Taipa
had done, and to the fame purpofe ; didlating, as before,
the heads of the fpeech.

Thefc ceremonies being performed, the Chief, at my
requeft, condudtcd me to three ftagnant pools of frefli wa-
ter, as he was pleafed to call it : and, indeed, in one of thefe
the water was tolerable, and the fituation not inconvenient
for filling our cafks. After viewing the watering-place,
we returned to our former ftation, \\ here I found a bake<l
hog, and fome yams, fmoking hot, ready to be carried on

\ i 2 board

>777-
May.

• !■■

'it '5

'■■H

M«v.

'■%{

Sunday 1 8.

A V O Y A G E r O

board for my ilinncr. I invited Fccnou, and his friends, to
partake of it ; and we embarked for the Ihip ; but none but
hinifelf fat down with us at the table. After dinner I con-
ducted them on Ihore ; and, before I returned on board, the
Clhief gave me a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams.
Our lupply of provifions was copious ; for, in the coinfe of
the day, we got, by barter, along-fide the fliip, about twenty
fmall hogs, bclide fruit and roots. I ^^as told, that on mv
liril landing in the morniiig, a man came off to the fliips,
and ordered every one of the natives to go on Ihore. Pro-
bably, this was done with a view to have the whole body of
inhabitants [u'efent at the ceremony of my reception ; for
when that was over, multitudes of them returned again to
the ihips.

Next morning early, Feenou, and Omai, who fcarcely
ever quitted the Chief, and now ilept on fliorc, came on
board. The object of the vifit, was to require my prcl'ence
upon the ilia lid. After fome time, I accompanied them;
and, upon landing, was conducted to the lame place where
1 had been leated the day before ; and where I faw a large
concourfe of people already aifembled. I gueired that
fomcthing more than ordinary was in agitation ; but could
not tell what, nor could Omai inform me.

I had not been long feated, before near a hundred of the
natives appeared in iight, and advanced, laden with yam>,
bread-fruit, jilantains, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-cancs. They
depofited their burdens, in two heaps, or piles, upon our
left, being the fitle they came from. Six^n after, arriwd a
number of others from the right, bearing the faiiK^ kind
of articles; which were col!ed;ed into two piles vqxM\ that
i\de. To thei'e were tied two pigs, ami fix K>wls ; and to
thofe, upon the left, fix i>igs, and two turtles. Earoupa

feared

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

Icatcd himfelf before the feveral articles upon the left ;
and another Chief before thofe upon the right ; they
being, as 1 judged, the *■ .) Chiefs who had colledl:ed them,
by order of Feenou, who bemed to be as implicitly obey-
ed here, as h. had been at Annamooka; and, in confe-
qvience of his commanding fuperiority over the Chiefs of
llapaee, had laid this tax upon them for the prefent oc-
cafion.

As foon as this munificent colletlion • ' provifions was
laid down in order, and difpofed to the belt advantage, the
bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle
round the whole. Prefently atier, a number of men en-
tered thi circle, or area, before us, arn ^d with clubs, made
of the gr. n branches of the cocoa-nut tree. Thefe paraded
about, for a few minutes, and then retired; the one half to
one fide, and the other half to the other fide ; feating them-
felves> before the fpedtators. Soon after, they fucceflively
entered the lifts, and entertained us with fingle combats.
One champion, rifing up and ftepping forward from one
fide, challenged thofe of the other fide, by exprefllive gef-
tures, more than by words, to lend one of their body to op-
pofe him. If the challenge was accepted, which was gene-
rally the cafe, the two combatants put themfelves in proper
attitudes, and then began the engagc";iont, which con-
tinued till one or other owned himfeJt , ;viquered, or till
their weapons were broken. As foon is each combat was
over, the vidlor fquatted himfelf down facing the Chief,
then role vip, and retired. At the fiime time, fome old me i,
who ieemed to fit as judges, gave their plaudit in a few
words ; and the multitude, efpecially thofe on the fide to
which the vidlor belonged, celebrated t'.i . glory he had ac-
quired, in two or three huzzas.

This

=4=

May.

I !

J-}

'I-

146

«777'
May.

Mir

A VOYAGE TO

This entertainment was, novv and then, fufpended for a
few minutes. During theli intervals there were both
wreftUng and boxing matches. The firft were performed
in the fame manner as at Otaheite ; and the fecond differed
very little from the method pradtifed in England. But
what ftrurk us with moft furprize, was, to fee a couple of
hifty wenches ftcp forth, and begin boxing, without the
lead ceremony, and with as much art as the men. This
tonteft, however, did not lart above half a minute, before
one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received
the fame applauie from the fpeiftators, which they bellow-
ed upon the fiiccefsful combatants of the other fex. We
expreffed fome diilike at this part of the entertainment;
which, liowever, did not prevent two other females from
entering tlie Hits. They feemed to be girls of fpirit, and
would certainly have given each other a good drubbing,
if two old women had not interpofed to part them. All
theib combats were exhibited in the midlt of, at lead, three
thoufand people; and were condudled with the greateft
goo<l humour on all fidt> ; though fome of the champions,
women as well as mtn, recived blows, which, doubtlefs,
thev miift have felt f;>r tbrnc time after.

As foon as thefe divei lions were ended, the Chief told
n:e, that the heaps of provifions, on our right-hand, were
a prefent to Omai ; and that thofe, on our left-hand, being
about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me.
He added, that I might take them on board whenever it
was convenient ; but that there would be no occafion to
fet any of our people as guards over tlicm, as 1 might be
alTured, that not a lingle ccKoa-nut would be taken away
by the natives. So it proved; for 1 left every thing be-
hind, and returned to the Ihip to dinner, carrying the

Chief

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

247

Chief with mc ; and when the provifious were removed on
board, in the afternoon, not a finale article was miiling.
There was as much as loaded four l)oats; and I lould not
but be rtruck with the munificence of Feenou; for this
prefent far exceeded any 1 had ever received from any of
the Sovereigns of the various Ulands I had vifited in the

«777-
May.

ig my friend,
for, before he
of our corn-
is ertima-
,is fatisfac-

Pacific Ocean. I loft no time in con '
that I was not infenfdile of his liber '
quitted my lliip, I bellowed upon b
modities, as, I gueffed, were moft v.
tion. And the return I made was fo
tion, that, as foon as he got on fliore, he icic mc ftill in-
debted to him, by fending me a frefli prefent, confifting of
two large hogs, a confiderable quantity of cloth, and fome
yams.

Feenou had expreffed a defire to fee the marines go
through their military exercile. As I was defirous to gratify
his curiofity, I ordered them all afhore, from both fliips, in
the morning of the 20th. After they had performed various TuefJay 20,
evolutions, and fired ieveral voUies, with which the nume-
rous body of fpedfators feemed well pleafed, the Chief en-
tertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition, which, as was
acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity
and exa(Slnefs, far furpalling the fpecimen we had given of
our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of a dance, fo en-
tirely different from any thing I had ever feen, that, I fear,
I can give no dcfcription that will convey any tolerable idea
of it to my readers. It was performed by men ; and one
hundred and five pcrfons bore their parts in it. Each of
them had in his hand an inftrument neatly made, Ihaped
lomewhat like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length,
with a fmall handle, and a thin blade; fo that they w^ere

very

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

118

1 2.5
*i^ 1^ 12.2

i
2f B4 ■

I.I i:^ iiiiM

1.8

1.25 1.4 1.6

►

*V>^

.J>A\?

Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WIST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) 873-4S03

i48

1777-
May.

A VOYAGE TO

very light. With thefe inftruments they made many and
various flourifhes, each of which was accompanied with a
different attitude of the body* or a different movement. At
firft, the performers ranged themfelves in three lines ; and,
by various evolutions, each man changed his ftation in fuch
a manner, that thofe who had been in the rear, came into
the front. Nor did they remain long in the fame polition ;
but thefe changes were made by pretty quick. tranfiti(Mis.
At one time they extended themfelves in one line ; they,
then, formed into a femicircle ; and, laftly, into two fquare
columns. While this laft movement was executing, one of
them advanced, and performed an antic dance before me ;
■with which the whole ended.

The mufical inftruments confifted of two drums, or
rather two hollow logs of wood, from which fome varied
notes were produced, by beating on them with two flicks.
It did not, however, appear to me, that the dancers were
much aflifled or dire<Sted by thefe founds, but by a chorus
of vocal mufic, in which all the performers joined at the
fame time. Their fong was not deftitute of pleafmg me-
lody ; and all their correfponding motions were executed
with fo much Ikill, that the numerous, body of dancers
fcemed to a(St, as if they were one great machine. It
was the opinion of every one of us, that fuch a perform-
.mce would have met with univerfal applaufe on a Eu-
ropean theatre ; and it fo far exceeded any attempt we had
made to entertain them, that they feemed to pique them-
felves upon the fuperiority they had over us. As to our
mufical inftruments, they held none of them in the Icaft
efteem, except the drum ; and even that they did not
think equal to their own. Our French horns, in particu-
lar, feemed to be held in great contempt ; for neither here,

nor

■'SW

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

nor at any other of the iflands, would they pay the fmalleil
attention to them.

In order to give them a more favourable opinion of Eng-
lilh amufements, and to leave their minds fully impreffed
with the deepeft fenfe of our fuperior attainments, I directed
fome fireworks to be got ready; and, after it was dark,
played them off in the prefence of Feenou, the other
Chiefs, and a vaft tx)ncourfe of their people. Some of the
preparations we found damaged ; but others of them v.'ere
in excellent order, and fucceeded fo perfeftly, as to anfwer
the end I had in view. Our water and fky-rockets, in par-
ticular, pleafed and aftoniflied them beyond all conception ;
and the fcale was now turned in our favour.

This, however, feemed only to furnifli them with an
additional motive to proceed to frefh exertions of their very
lingular dexterity ; and our fireworks were no focner ended,
than a fucceflion of dances, which Feenou had got ready
for our entertainment, began. As * a prelude to them, a
band of mufic, or chorus of eighteen men, feated them-
felves before us, in the centre of the circle, compofed by
the numerous fpe^lators, the area of which was to be the
fcene of the exhibitions. Four or five of this band, had
pieces of large bamboo, from three to five or fix feet long,
each managed by one man, who held it nearly in a vertical
pofition, the upper end open, but the other end clofed by
one of the joints. With this clofe end, the performers kept
conftantly ftriking the ground, though flowly, thus pro-
ducing different notes, according to the difFere!\t lengths of
the inftruments, but all of them of the hollow or bafe fort ;
to countera(5l which, a perfon kept ftriking quickly, and

• Mr. Anderfon's account of the night dances being much fuller than Captain Cook's,
the reader will not be difpleafed that it has been adopted.

Vol. I. K k with

249

May.

t t

25^

»777-
May.

h : m

U H

i.'';- ' "v

A VOYAGE TO

with two ftieks, a piece of the fame fubftance, fplit, and
laid along the ground, and, by that means, fumilhing a
tone as acute, as thofe produced by the others were grave.
The reft of the band, as well as thofe who performed upon
the bamboos, fung a How and foft air, which fo tempered
the harflier notes of the above inflruments, that no bye-
ftander, however accuftomed to hear the moft perfe6t and
varied modulation of fweet founds, could avoid confefT-
ing the vaft power, and plealing eflfeft, of this fimple
harmony.

The concert having continued about a quarter of an
hour, twenty women entered the circle. Moft of them had,
upon their heads, garlands of the crimfon flowers of the
China rofe, or others ; and many of them had ornamented
their perfons with leaves of trees, cut with a great deal of
nicety about the edges. They made a circle roimd the
chorus, turning their faces toward it, and began by finging
a foft air, to which refponfes were made by the chorus in
the fame tone ; and thefe were repeated alternately. All
this while, the women accompanied their fong with feveral
very graceful motions of their hands toward their faces,
and in other dire(Slions at the fame time, making conftantly
a ftep forward, and then back again, with one foot, while
the other was fixed. They then turned their facee the
aflembly, fung fome time, and retreated ftowly in a ' . ^ , to
that part of the circle which was oppofite the hut where the
principal fpedlators fat. After this, one of them advanced
from each fide, meeting and pafling each other in the front,
anfi continuing their progrefs round, till they came to the
reft. On which, two advanced from each fide, two of whom
alfo paffed each other, and returned as the former ; but
the other two remained, and to thefe came one, from each

fide,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fide, by intervals, till the whole number had again formed
a circle about the chorus.

Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker
meafure, in which they made a kind of half turn by leap-
ing, and clapped their hands, and fnapped their fingers, re-
peating fome words in conjunction with the chorus. To-
ward the end, as the quicknefs of the mufic increafed,
their geftures and attitudes were varied with wonderful
vigour and dexterity ; and fome of their motions, perhaps,
would, with us, be reckoned rather indecent. Though this
part of the performance, moft probably, was not meant to
convey any wanton ideas, but merely to difplay the afto-
niihing variety of their movements.

To this grand female ballet, fucceeded one performed by
fifteen men. Some of them were old; but their age feemed
to have abated little of their agility or ardour for the dance.
They were difpofed in a fort of circle, divided at the front,
with their faces not turned out toward the aflembly, nor
inward to the chorus ; but one half of their circle faced for-
ward as they had advanced, and the other half in a con-
trary direction. They, fometimes, fung flowly, in concert
with the chorus ; and, while thus employed, they alfo made
feveral very fine motions with their hands, but different
from thofe made by the women, at the fame time inclining
the body to either fide alternately, by raifing one leg, which
was ftretched outward, and retting on the other; the arm of
the fame fide being alfo ftretched fully upward. At other
times, they recited fentences in a mufical tone, which were
anfwered by the chorus ; and, at intervals, increafed the
meafvure of the dance, by clapping the hands, and quicken-
ing the motions of the feet, which, however, were never
varied. At the end, the rapidity of the mufic, and of the

K k a dancing,

aSi

1777-
May.

>;■

] '^'

>777-
May.

1/ ^i.

. ' A VOYAGE TO

dancing, increafed fo much, that it was fcarcely poflible to
diftinguifli the different movements ; though one might fup-
pofe the adtors were now almoft tired, as their performance
had lalted near half an hour.

After a confiderable interval, another a£l, as we may call
it, began. Twelve men now advanced, who placed them-
felves in double rows fronting each other, but on oppofite
fides of the circle ; and, on one fide, a man was Rationed,
who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated feveral fen-
tences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus,
replied. They then fung flowly; and afterward danced
and fung more quickly, for about a quarter of an hour, after
the manner of the dancers whom they had fucceeded.

Soon after they had finilhed, nine women exhibited them-
felves, and fat down fronting the hut where the Chief was.
A man then rofe, and ftruck. the firft of thefe women on the
back, with both fifts joined. He proceeded, in the T^me
manner, to the fecond and third ; but when he came to the
fourth, whether from accident or defign I cannot tell, in-
ftead of the back, he ftruck her on the breaft. Upon this a
perfon rofe inftantly from the crowd, who brought him to
the ground with a blow on the head ; and he was carried
off without the leaft noife or diforder. But this did not fave
the other five women from fo odd a difcipline, or perhaps
neceffary ceremony ; for a perfon fucceeded him, who
treated them in the fame manner. Their difgrace did not
end here ; for when they danced, they had the mortification
to find their performance twice difapproved of, and were
obliged to repeat it. This dance did not diflfer much from
that of the firft women, except in this one circumftance,
that the prefent fpt, fometimes raifed the body upon one leg,
by a ibrt of double motion, and then upon the other alter-
nately,

If,' *" 1 ;i '

»-; ?

I '»'

[Lj... i

<._i

in ,' >

! il

ft (

(k1

^ .

1 . '

W^i-

^' '

ik,

: «itl

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

nately, in which attitude they kept fnapping their fingers ;
and, at the end, they repeated, with great agility, the brifk
movements, in which the former group of female dancers
had Ihewn themfelves fo expert.

In a little time, a perfon entered unexpe<Stedly, and faid
fomething in a ludicrous way, about the fireworks that had
been exhibited, which extorted a burft of laughter from the
multitude. After this, we had a dance compofed of the
men who attended, or had followed, Feenou. They formed
a double circle (i. e. one within another) of twenty-four
each, round the chorus, and began a gentle foothing fong,
with correfponding motions of the hands and head. This
lafted a confiderable time, and then changed to a much
quicker meafure, during which they repeated fentences,
either in conjundion with the chorus, or in anfwer to fome
fpoken by that band. They then retreated to the back part
of the circle, as the women had done, and again advanced,
on each fide, in a triple row, till they formed a femicircle,
which was done very flowly, by inclining the body on one
leg, and advancing the other a little way, as they put it
down. They accompanied this, with fuch a foft air as they
had fung at the beginning ; but foon changed it to repeat
fentences in a harfher tone, at the fame time quickening the
dance very much, till they finilhed with a general Ihout and
clap of the hands. The fame was repeated feveral times ;
but, at laft, they formed a double circle, as at the beginning,
danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally clofed with
feveral very dexterous tranfpofitions of the two circles.

The entertainments of this memorable night concluded
with a dance, in which the principal people prefent ex-
hibited. It refembled the immediately preceding one, in
fome refpe<Sts, having the fame number of performers, who

began

WKS

1 ., >i

*»> ii

«54

Mil-
May.

!L./t

. .!<,

®P' milt A

A VOYAGE TO i

began nearly in the fame way ; but their ending, at each
interval, was different : for they increafed their motions to
a prodigious quicknefs, Hiiking their heads from fhoulder
to IhoiUder, with fuch force, that a fpedtator, unaccultomed
to the fight, would fuppofe, thai they ran a riik of diflo-
cating their necks. This was tended with a fmart clap-
ping of the hands, and a kind of favage holla ! or fhriek»
not unlike what is fometimes pradtifed in the comic dances
on our European theatres. They formed the triple femi-
circle, as the preceding dancers had done; and a perfon,
who advanced at tlie head on one fide of the femicircle,
began by repeating fomething in a truly mufical recitative,
wliich was delivered with an air fo graceful, as might put
to the blufh our moft applauded performers. He was an-
fwered in the fame manner, by the perfon at the head of
the oppofite party. This being repeated feveral times, the
whole body, on one fide, joined in the refponfes to the
whole correfponding body on the oppofite fide, as the femi-
circle advanced to the front ; and they finifhed, by finging
and dancing as they had begun.

Thefe two laft dances were performed with fo much
fpirit, and fo great exa<Stnefs, that they met with univerfal
approbation. The native fpe<Slators, who, no doubt, were
perfect judges whether the feveral performances were pro-
perly executed, could not withhold their applaufes at fome
particular parts ; and even a ftranger, who never faw the
diverfion before, felt fimilar fatisfadlion, at the fame inftant.
For though, through the whole, the moft ftridt concert was
obferved, fome of the geftures were fo expreflive, that it
might be faid, they fpoke the language that accompanied
tliem ; if we allow that there is any connection between
motion and ibund. At the fame time, it fiiould be obferved,

3 that

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

that though the mulic of the chorus, and that of the
dancers, correfponded, conftant pradlice in thefe favourite
amufements of our friends, feems to have a great fliare in
efFedling the exacSt time they keep in their performances.
For we obferved, that if any of them happened accidentally
to be interrupted, they never found the fmalleft difficvdty
in recovering the proper place of the dance or fong. And
their perfedt difcipline was in no inftance more remark-
able, than in the fudden tranfitions they fo dexteroufly
made from the ruder exertions^ and harfh founds, to the
fofteft airs, and gentleft movements *.

The place where the dances were performed, was an
open fpace amongft the trees, juft by the fea, with lights, at
ixnall intervals, placed round the infide of the circle. The
concourfe of people was pretty large, though not equal to
the number affembled in the forenoon, when the marines
exercifed. At that time, fome of our gentlemen guefled
there might be prefent about five thoufand perfons ; others
thought there were more; but they who reckoned that
there were fewer, probably, came nearer to the truth.

• In a former note, at p. i88. it was obferved, that the fongs and dar.ces of the Caro-
line Iflanders, in the North Pacific, bear a great refemblance to thofe of the inhabitants
of Wateeoo. The remark may be now extended to thofe of the Friendly iflanders, de-
fcribcd at large in this chapter. That the reader may judge for himfelf, I have iele£i]e(i
the following particulars from Father Cantova's account. " Pendant la nuit, au claic
<' de la lune, ils s'ailemblent, de temps en temps, pour chanter & danfer dev'jit la maifon
«< de leur Tamole. Leurs danfes fc font au fon de la voix, car ils n'o; < <nX. d'inftru-
" ment de mufique. La beaute de la danfe, confifte dans I'exadle unifbrmitt les mouve-
*' mens du corps. Les hommes, fepares des femmes, fe poftent vis-a-vis les tms dcs
" autrcs J aprcs quoi, ils remuent la tete^ les bras, les mains, les pieds, en cadenca.— •
•' Leur tete eft couverte de plumes, ou de fleurs ;— et Ton voit, attachees a leurs orcilles,
" des feuilles de palmier tilTues avec affcz d'art. — Les femmes, de leur cote, — fe regardant
*♦ les unes les autres, commencent un chant pathetique & langoureux, accompagnant le
*' fon de leur voix du mouvement cadence de la tete & des bras," Littres Edifiantts i^
Cutitu/es, Tom. xv. p. 314, 315.

CHAP.

255

>777-
May.

' (■

V ■\]

' n-ifl

256

A VOYAGE TO

C H A P. VI.

DefcriptioH of Lefooga.'—Us cultivated State. — Its Extent.'^
Tranjaiiions there. — A Female Oculijl. — Singular Expedients
forjbaving off the Hair. — The Ships change their Station.-—
ji remarkable Mount and Stone. — Defer ipt ion of Hoolaiva.-^
Account of PoulahOf King of the Friendly IJlands .—-RefpeSl-
ful Manner in which he is treated by his People.'— Depar-
Jure from the Hapaee IJlands. — Some Account of Kotoo.—
Return of the Ships to Annamooka.—Poulaho and Feenou
meet.'— Arrival at 'Tongataboo.

'777- ^^URIOSITY, on both fides, being now fufficiently
y_ y.' , \^ gratified, by the exhibition of the various entertain-
ments I have defcribed, I began to have time to look about
Wednef. 11. me. Accordingly, next day, I took a walk into the ifland of
Lefooga, of which I was defirous to obtain fome know-
ledge. I found it to be, in feveral refpecSls, fuperior to An-
namooka. The plantations were both more numerous, and
more extenfive. In many places, indeed, toward the fea, ef-
pecially on the Eaft fide, the country is ftill wafte ; owing,
perhaps, to the landy foil ; as it is much lower than Anna-
mooka, and its furrounding ifies. But, toward the middle
of the illand, the foil is better ; and the marks of confider-
able population, and of improved cultivation, were very
confpicuous. For we met here ^^^ith very large plantations,
inclofed in fuch a manner, that the fences running parallel

U.I ■■«-^? ;^-r!JrP^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

157

to each other, form fine fpacious public roads, that would
appear ornamental in countries where rural conveniences
have been carried to the grcateft perfetSlion. We obferved
large fiwts covered with the paper mulberry-trees ; and the
plantations, in general, were well flocked with fuch roots
and fruits as are the natural produce of the illand. To
thefe I made fome addition, by fowing the feeds of Indian
corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was
a houfe, four or five times as large as thofe of the com-
mon fort, with a large area of grafs before it ; and, I take
it for granted, the people refort thither on certain public
occafions. Near the landing-place, we faw a mount, two
or three feet high, covered with gravel ; and on it flood
four or five finall huts, in which, the natives told us,
the bodies of fome of their principal people had been
interred.

The ifland is not above feven miles long ; and, in fome
]^ac€s, not above two or three broad. The Eaft fide of it,
which is expofed to the trade-wind, has a reef, running to
a confiderable breadth from it, on which the fea breaks
with great violence. It is a continuation of this reef that
joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile
diflant ; and, at low water, the natives can walk upon this
reef, which is then partly dry, from the one ifland to the
other. The fhore itfelf is either a coral rock, fix or feven
feet high, or a fandy beach ; but higher than the Weft
fide; which, in general, is not more than three or four
feet from the level of the fea, with a fandy beach its whole
length.

When I returned from my excurfion into the country,

and went on board to dinner, I found a large failing canoe

fafl to the fliip's flern. In this canoe was Latooliboula,

Vol. I. L 1 whom

1777-
May.

vl-'r!

M :.

i ';■,:

»!■

»777«
May.

25a AVOYAGETO

whom I had fcen nt Tongataboo, (hiring my lart voyage ;
and who was then fupiwfcd by us to be the King of that
illand. He fat in the canoe, with all that gravity, by which,
as I have mentioned in my Journal S be was fo remarka-
bly diftinguifhcd at that time ; nor could I, by any intrea-
ties, prevail upon him now to come into the (hip. Many
of the illanders were prefent ; and they all called him
Areekee^ which fignifies King. I had never heard any one
of them give this title to Fecnou, however extenfive his au-
thority over them, both here, and at Annamooka, had ap-
peared to be ; which had, all along, inclined me to fufpedt,
that he was not the King ; though his friend Taipa had
taken pains to make me believe he was. Latooliboula re-
mained under the ftern till the evening, when he retired in
his canoe to one of the iflands. Feenou was on board my
fhip at the fame time ; but neither of thufe great men took
the lead notice of the other.
Thurfdayaj. Nothing material happened the next day, except that
fome of the natives Hole a tarpaulin, and other things,

• See Captain doit's Voyagty Vol. i. p. ao6, 207. The name of this extraordinary
perlbniige is there faid to be Kohagee too Fallangou j which cannot, by the mod fkiifiil
etymoldgld, be tortured into the lead mod didant rc(emblance of Latotlihouhi. It is
remarl^ablc, that Captain Cook fliould not take any notice of his having called the fame
perfon by ivo names fo very different. Perhaps we may account for this by fuppofuig one
to be the name of the perfon, and the other the defcription of his title or rank. This
fuppofitioii fecms wl-11 founded, when we confider, that Latoo, in the language of thefe
people, is fomctimcs L-fcd to fignify a Great Chief; and Dr. Forder, in his Otfervatlons,
p. 378, 379. and elfcwhcre, fptok- of the fovcrcign of Tongataboo, under the title of
their Latoo. This very ptrfon i^ ;.u r j, by Dr. Forder, p. 370. Lutoo-Nipooroo; which
furnifhes a very ftriking indance of the variations of our [Xjople in writing down the fame
word as prcnounced by the natives. However, wc can eafily trace the affinity between
Nlpoiroo and Liliouldy as the changes of the confonants are iiich as arc perpetually made,
upon hearing a word pronounced, to which our ears have not been accufiomed. Mr.
Andcribn here agrees with Captain Cook in writing Latooliboula.

from

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

259

1777'
May.

from off the deck. They were foim miiTccU and the thieves
inirfuetl ; but a little too late. I applied, therefore, to
Keenoii, who, if he was not king, was at leail veiled with
the hit>,hell authority here, to exert it, in order to have
my things reftored. He referred me to Earoupa ; who
pirt me off, from time to time ; and, at laft, nothing was
done.

In the morning of the a3d, as we were going to un- rriiUy rj.
moor, in order to leave the illand, Feenou, and his primc-
miniiter Taipa, came along-fide in a failing canoe, and in-
formed me, that they were fetting out for Vavaoo, an
illand, which, they faid, lies about two days fail to the
Northward of Hapaee. The obje<St of their voyage, they
would have me believe, was to get for me an additional
fupply of hogs, and fome red-feathered caps for Omai, to
carry to Otaheite, where they are in high efteem. Feenou
alTured me, that he fliould be back in four or live days ;
and defired me not to fail till his return, when, he pro-
mifed, he would accompany me to Tongataboo. I thought
this a good opportunity to get fome knowledge of Vavaoo,
and propofed to him to go thither with the fliips. But he
feemed not to approve of the plan ; and, by way of divert-
ing me from it, told me, that there was neitl^cr harbour,
nor anchorage about it. I, therefore, confented to wait, in
my prefent itation, for his return ; and he immediately
fet out.

The next day, our attention was, for fome time, taken Saturday 24,
up with a report, induftricufly fpread about by fome of the
natives, that a fliip, like ours, had arrived at Annamooka
fince we left it ; and was now at anchor there. The pro-
pagators of the reixjrt were pleafed to add, that Toobou, the
Chief of that ifland, was haftening thither to receive thele

L 1 2

new-

tDBi^p!

'Km

260

»777-
May.

Sunday 25.

' A VOYAGE TO

new-comers ; and as we knew that he had actually left us,
we were the more ready to believe there might be fome
foundation for the ftory of this unexpected arrival. How-
ever, to gain fome farther information, I went on fhore
with Omai, in quell of the man who, it was faid, had
brought the firft account of this event from Annamooka.
We found him at the houfe of Earoupa ; where Omai put
fuch queftions to him as I thought neceffary ; and the an-
fwers he gave, were fo clear and fatisfadlory, that 1 had not
a doubt remaining. But, juft about this time, a Chief, of
fome note, whom we well knew, arrived from Annamooka ;
and declared, that no fliip was at that illand, nor had been,
fince our leaving it. The propagator of the report, finding
himfelf detedled in a falfehood, inftantly withdrew, and we
faw no more of him. What end the invention of this tale
could anfwer, was not eafy to conje<£lure ; unlefs we fuppofe
it to have been artfully contrived, to get us removed from
the one illand to the other.

In my walk, on the 25th, I happened to ftep into a houle,
where a woman was drelling the eyes of a young child, who
feemed blind ; the eyes being much inflamed, and a thin
film fpread over them. The inl'truments flie ufed were two
flender wooden probes, with which Ihe had brulhed the
eyes fo as to make them bleed. It leems worth mention-
ing, that the natives of thefe illands fliould attempt an ope-
ration of this fort ; though I entered the houfe too late, to
defcribe exactly how this female oculiil employed the
wretched tools llie had to work with.

I was fortunate enough to fee a different operation going
on in the fame houfe, of which I can give a tolerable ac-
count. I found there another woman fliaving a child's
head, with a fliark's tooth, lUick into the end of a piece of

flick.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

dSi

«777-
May.

ftick. I obferved, that flie firft wet the hair with a rag
clipped in water, applying her inllrument to that part which
fhe had previoufly foaked. The operation feemed to give
no pain to the child ; although the hair was taken off as
clofe as if one of our razors had been employed. Encou^
raged by what I now faw, I, foon after, tried one of thefe
fingidar inftruments upon myfelf, and found it to be an
excellent fuccedaneum. However, the men of thefe iflands
have recourfe to another contrivance when they Ihave their
beards. The operation is performed with two (hells ; one
of which they place under a fmall part of the beard, and
with the other, applied above, they fcrape that part off. In
this manner they are able to lliave very clofe. The pro-
cefs is, indeed, rather tedious, but not painful ; and there
are men amongft them who feem to profefs this trade.
It was as common, while we were here, to fee our failors
go afhore to have their beards feraped off, after the fafhion
of Hapaee, as it was to fee their Cliiefs come on board to be
Ihaved by our barbers.

Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the illand
was now brought to the lliips, I refolved to change our
ftation, and to wait Feenou's return from Vavaoo, in fome
other convenient anchoring-place, where refrelhments
might ft ill be met with. Accordingly, in the forenoon
of the 26th, we got under fail, and ftood to tl>e Southward Monday zG.
along the reef of the illand ; having fourteen and thirteen
fathoms water, with a fandy bottom. However, we met
with feveral detached fhoals. Some of them were difco-
vered by breakers ; fome, by the \\'ater upon them appearing
difcoloured ; and others, by the lead. At half jxiftr two in
the afternoon, having already palfed feveral of thefe flioals,
and feeing more of them before us, 1 hauled into a bay,

that

a6a

•1T77.

Miy.

t i,'rf

A VOYAGE TO

that lies between the South end of Lefooga, and the North
end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored in feventeen fathoms
water ; the bottom a coral-fand ; the point of Lefooga bear-
ing South Eaft by Eaft, a mile and a half diftant. The Dif-
covery did not get to an anchor till fvinfet. She had touched
upon one of the flioals ; but backed off again, without re-
ceiving any damage.

As foon as we had anchored, I fent Mr. Bligh to found
the bay where we were now ftationed ; and myfelf, accom -
panied by Mr. Gore, landed on the Southern part of Le-
fooga, to examine the country, and to look for frefli water.
Not that we now wanted a fupply of this article, having
filled all the caiks at our late ftation ; but I had been toid,
that this part of the ifland could afford \is fome, preferable
to any we had got at the former watering-place. This will
not be the only time I fliall have occafion to remark, that
thefe people do not know what good water is. We were
conducted to two wells ; but the water in both of them
proved to be execrable ; and the natives, our guides, aflured
us that they had none better.

Near the South end of the illand, and on the Weft fide,
we met with an artificial mount. From the fize of fome
trees that were growing upon it, and from other appear-
ances, I guefled that it had been raifed in remote times. I
judged it to be about forty feet high; and the diameter
of its fummit meafured fifty feet. At the bottom of this
mount, ftood a ftone, which muft have been hewn out of
coral rock. It was four feet broad, two and a half thick,
and fourteen high ; and we were told by the natives pre-
fent, that not above half its length appeared above ground.
They called ii Tangata Arekee'--:' ; and faid, that it had been

• Tangata^ in their language, is man ; Arckei\ king.

fet

^ If

Z PACIFIC OCEAN.

263

«777-
May.

fet up, and tiie mount raifed, by fome of their forefathers,
in memory of one of their kings ; but how long flnce, they
could not tell.

Night coming on, Mr. Gore and I returned on board ;
and, at the fame time, Mr. Bhgh got back from founding
the bay, in which he found from foiuteen to twenty fa-
thoms water ; the bottom, for the moft part, fand, but not
without fome coral rocks. The place where we now an-
chored is much better flieltered than that which we had
lately come from ; but between the two is another anchor-
ing ftation, much better than either. Lefooga and Hoolaiva
are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which
is dry at low v/ater ; fo that one may walk, at that time,
from the one to the other, without wetting a foot. Some
of our Gentlemen, who landed in the latter illand, did not
find the leaft mark of cultivation, or habitation, upon it j
except a fingle hut, the refidence of a man employed to
catch fifh and tiutle. It is rather extraordinary, that it
fliould be in this deferted ftate, communicating fo immedi-
ately with Lefooga, which is fo perfectly cultivated ;, for,
though the foil is quite fandy, all the trees and plants found,
in a natural ftate, on the neighbouring iilands, are pro-
duced here with the grcateft vigour. The Eaft fide of it
has a reef like Lefooga; and the Weft fide has a bending,
at the North part, where there feems to be good anchorage.
Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount, hke that
at the adjoining illand, has been raifed upon it, as high as
fome of the furrounding trees.

At day -break, next morning, I made the fignal to weigh; Tuefday 27.

and, as I intended to attempt a paflage to Annamooka,

in my way to Tongot-\boo, by the South Wert, amongft

the intervening ifiar^ds, I fcnt the Mafter in a boat to

I found

' il

4, l;.,i

</-'»

'^^m^ \'

7isBfKflBWR.^i5.

264

1777-
May.

:l*

A VOYAGE TO

found before the (hips. But before we would get under
fail, the wind became unfettled; which made it unfafe
to attempt a pafllige this way, till we were better ac-
quainted with it. I, therefore, lay faft, and made the ilgnal
for the Mafter to retiu"n ; and afterward fent him and the
Mailer of the Difcovery, each in a boat, w ith inftru<Stions
to examine the channels, as far as they could, allowing
themfelves time to get back to the fliips before the clofe of
the day.

About noon, a large failing canoe came under our ftern,
in which was a perfon named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or
both ; who, as the natives then on board told us, was King
of Tongataboo, and of all the neighbouring iflands that we
had feen or heard of. It was a matter of furprize to me, to
have a ftranger introduced under this tharadter, which I
had fo much reafon to believe really belonged to another.
But they per filled in their account of the fupreme dig-
nity of this new vifiter; and now, for the firil time, they
owned to me, that Feenou was not the King, but only a
fubordinate Chief, though of great power ; as he was often
fent from Tongataboo to the other illands, on warlike expe-
ditions, or to decide differences. It being my interelt, as
well as my inclination, to pay court to all the great men,
without making inquiry into the validity of their affumed
titles, I invited Poulaho on board ; as I underftood he was
very defirous to come. He could not be an unwelcome
gueft ; for he brought with him, as a prefent to me, two
good fat hogs ; though not fo fat as hinifelf. If weight of
body could give weight in rank or power, he was certainly
the moft eminent man in that refpe<5l, we had feen ; for,
though not very tall, he was very luiwicldy, and almoft
ihapelefs with corpulence. He feemcd to be about forty

years

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

265

years of age, had ftraight hair, and his features differed a
good deal from thofe of the bulk of his people. I found
him to be a fedate, fenfible man. He viewed the Ihip, and
the feveral new objedts, with uncommon attention; and
afked many pertinent queftions ; one of which was, What
could induce us to vifit thefe iflands ? After he had fatisfied
his curiofity in looking at the cattle, and other novelties
which he met with upon deck, I defired him to walk down
into the cabin. To this fome of his attendants objedled,
faying, that, if he were to accept of that invitation, it muft
happen, that people would walk over his head ; which could
not be permitted. I dire(ited my interpreter Omai, to tell
them, that I would obviate their obje«5tion, by giving orders,
that no one Ihould prefume to walk tipon that part of the
deck which was over the cabin. Whether this expedient
would have fatisfied them, was far from appearing ; but the
Chief himfelf, lefs Icrupulous, in this refpetft, than his at-
tendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down without
any ftipulation. He now appeared to be as folicitous him-
felf, as his people were, to convince us that he was king,
and not Feenou, who had paffed with us as fuch. For he
foon perceived, that we had fome doubts about it ; which
doubts Omai was not very defirous of removing. The
clofeft connection had been formed between him and Fee-
nou, in teftimony of which, they had exchanged names ;
and, therefore, he was not a little chagrined, that another
pcrfon now put in his claim to the honours which his
friend had hitherto enjoyed.

Poulaho fat down with us to dinner ; but he eat little, and
drank lefs. When we rofe from the table, he delired me to
accompany him afliore. Omai was afked to be of the party ;
but he was too faithfully attached to Feenou, to fliew any

Vol. I. Mm attention

>777-
May.

1 1 ;l I

L MS

If «l :

ii ' .1

266

1777-
May.

A VOYAGE TO

attention to his competitor; and, therefore, excufed him-
fclf. I attended the Chief in my own boat, having firft
made prefents to him, of fuch articles as, I could obferve,
he valued much, and were even beyond his expedlation to
receive. I was not difappointed in my view of thus fecur-
ing his friendfliip ; for the moment the boat reached the
beach, and, before he quitted her, he ordered two more
hogs to be brought, and delivered to my people to be con-
veyed on board. He was then carried out of the boat, by
fame of his own people, upon a board refembling a hand-
barrow, and went and leated himfelf in a fmall houfe near
the fhorc ; which feemed to have been erected there for his
accommodation. He placed me at his fide ; and his attend-
ants, who were not numerous, feated thcmfelves in a femi-
circle before us, on the outfide of the houfe. Behind the
Chief, or rather on one fide, fat an old woman, with a fort
of fan in her hand, whofc office it was to prevent his being
peftered with the flies.

The fcveral articles which his people had got, by trading
on board the fliips, were now difplayed before him. He
looked over them all, with attention, inquired what they
had given in exchange, and feemed pleafed with the bar-
gains they had made. At length, he ordered every thing to
be reftorcd to the rcfpcd\ive owners, except a glafs bowl,
with which he was fo much pleafed, that he referved it for
himfelf. The pcrfons who brought thefe things to him,
firft fi^uattcd thcmfelves down before him, then they depo-
fited their ievcnil purchafcs, and immediately rofe up and
retired. The fame refi)edtful ceremony Avas obferved in
taking them away ; and not one of them prefumed to fpeak
to him ftanding. I ftaycd till feveral of his attendants left
him, firft paying him obeifance, by bowing the head down

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

267

'777.
May.

to the fole of his foot, and touching or tapping the fame,
with the upper and under fide of the fingers of both hands.
Others, Avho were not in the circle, came, as it fcemed, on
purpofe, and paid him this mark of reipedl:, and tlien re-
tired, without fpeaking a word. 1 was quite charmed with
the decorum that was obferved. I had, no where, fecn the
hkc, not even amongft more civihzed nations.

I found the matter returned from his expedition, w hen I
got on board. He informed me, that, as far as he had pro-
ceeded, there was anchorage, and a paffage for the fliips ;
but that, toward the South and South Eall, he fiiw a num-
ber of fmail illes, flioals, and breakers. Judging, from this
report, that my attempting a paflage that way would be at-
tended with fome rifk, I now dropped all thoughts of it ;
thinking it better to return toward Annamooka by the
fame route, which we had fo lately experienced to be a
fafe one.

Having come to this refolution, I Ihould have failed next Wednef. 28.
morning, if the wind had not been too far Southerly, and,
at the fame time, very unfettled. Poidaho, the king, as I
fhall now call him, came on board betimes ; and brought,
as a prefent to me, one of their caps, made, or, at leafl:,
covered, with red feathers. Thefe caps were much fought
after by us ; for we knew they would be highly vahied at
Otaheite. But, though very large prices were otfered, not
one was ever brought for fale; which fhewed, that they
were no lefs valuable in the eftimation of the people here ;
nor was there a perfon in either fiiip, that could make him-
felf the proprietor of one, except myfclf, Captain Gierke,
and Omai. Thefe caps, or rather bonnets, are compofcd
of the tail feathers of the Tropic bird, with the red fea-
thers of the parroquets wrought u^wn them, or jointly with

M m 2 them.

268

A VOYAGE TO

1777-
May.

ThuriUay 29.

them. They are made fo as to tie upon the forehead with-
out any crown, and have the form of a femicircle, whofe
radius is eighteen or twenty inches. But a drawing which
Mr. Webber has made of Poulaho, drefled in one of thefc
bonnets, will convey the beft idea of them. The Chief
flayed on board till the evening, when he left us ; but his
brother, whofe name was alfo Futtafaihe, and one or two, or
more, of his attendants, continued in the fliip all night.

At day-break, the next morning, I weighed with a fine
breeze, at Eafl North Eaft, and flood to the Weflward,
with a view to return to Annamooka, by the track we
had already experienced. We were followed by feveral
failing canoes, in one of which was the king. As foon
as he got on board the Refolution, he inquired for his
brother, and the others who had remained with us all
night. It now appeared, that they had flayed without his
leave ; for he gave them, in a very few words, f uch a re-
primand as brought tears from their eyes ; and yet they
were men not lefs than thirty years of age. He was,
however, foon reconciled to their making a longer flay ;
for, on quitting us, he left his brother, and five of his at-
tendants, on board. We had alio the company of a Chief,
juft then arrived from Tongataboo, whofe name was Too-
boueitoa. The moment he arrived, he lent his canoe
av.ay, and declared, that he and five more, who came
with him, would fleep on board; fo that I had now my
cabin filled with vifiters. This, indeed, was fome incon-
venience ; but I bore with it more willingly, as they brought
plenty of proviilons with them, as prefents to me ; for
whicli they always had fuitable returns.

About one o'clock in the afternoon, the Eaflerly wind was
fuccceded by a frefh breeze at South South Eall. Oiu" courfe,

now

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

269

May.

now being South South Weft, or more Southerly, we were
obliged to ply to windward, and did but juft fetch the North
fide of Footooha by eight o'clock, where we fpent the
night, making fliort boards.

The next morning we plyed up to Lofanga, where, Friday jo.
according to the information of our friends, there was an-
chorage. It was one o'clock in the afternoon, before we
got foundings, under the lee or North Weft fide, in forty
fathoms water, near half a mile from the lliore ; but the
bank was fteep, and the bottom rocky, and a chain of
breakers lay to leeward. All thefe circumftances being
againft us, I ftretched away for Kotoo, with the expedlation
of finding better anchoring ground under that ifland. But
fo much time had been fpent in plying up to Lofanga,
that it was dark before we reached the other ; and, finding
no place to anchor in, the night was fpent as the preced-
ing one.

At day-break, on the 31ft, I ftood for the channel which Saturday 31,
is between Kotoo, and the reef of rocks that lie to the
Wellward of it ; but, on drawing near, I found the wind
too fcant to lead us through. I, therefore, bore up on the
outfide of the reef, and ftretched to the South Weft, till near
noon, when, perceiving that we made no progrefs to wind-
ward, and being apprehenlive of lofing the illands, with fo
many of the natives on board, I tacked and ftood back, in-
tending to wait till fome more favourable opportunity. We
did but juft fetch in with Footooha, between which and
Kotoo we fpent the night, under reefed topfails and forefail.
The wind blew frefti, and by fqualls, with rain ; and we
were not without apprehenfions of danger. I kept the deck
till midnight, when I left it to the Mafter, with fuch direc-
tions as, I thought, would keep the lliips clear of the flioals

and

rll

I , ii : iJ

B70

A VOYAGE TO

• 777-
M«v.

>:it#

t (

. I

Jane.
Sunday

and rocks, that lay round us. But, after making a trip to
the North, and landing back again to the Sovith, our fliip,
by a Imall fliift of the wind, fetched fartlier to the wind-
ward than was expeded. By this means Ihe was very near
running full upon a low landy ille, called Pootoo Pootooa,
furrounded with breakers. It hapi>ened, very fortunately,
that the peojile hadjull been ordered ujx>n the deck, to put
the fliip about, and the moft of them were at their Itations;
it) that the neccllary movements were not only executed
with judgment, but ;ilfo with alcrtnefs ; and this alone faved
us from deftrudion. The Dilcovery being aflern, was out
of danger. Such hazardous lituations are the unavoid-
able companions of the man, who goes upon a voyage of
dilcovery.

This circumftance frightened our paflengers fo much,
that they exprefled a ftrong dedre to get afliore. Accord-
ingly, as foon as day-light returned, I hoilled out a boat,
and ordeud the Ollicer who commanded her, after land-
ing them at Kotoo, to found along the reef that I'pits otf
from that iiland, for anchorage. For I was full as much
tired as they could be, with beating about amongft the
furrounding ifles and flioals, and determined to get to an
anchor, fomewhere or other, if pollible. While the boat
was abfent, we attempted to turn the fliips through the
channel, between the fandy ille and the reef of Kotoo, in
expectation of finding a moderate depth of water behind
them to anchor in. But, meeting with a tide or current
againltus, we were obliged to defilt, and anchor in lifry fa-
thoms water, with the fandy iile bearing Eail by North, one
mile diftant.

We lay here till the 4th. While in this ftation we
were, feveral times, vifited by the king, by Toobovieitoa,

and

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

•7X

«777-
June.

Monday t.

and by people from the neighbouring iflands, who came
off to trade with us, though the wind blew very frefti
moft of the time. The mailer was now fent to found the
channels between the iflands that lie to the Eaftward ; and
I landed on Kotoo, to examine it, in the forenoon of
the 2d.

This iiland is fcarcely acceflible by boats, on account of
coral reefs that furround it. It is not more than a mile
and half, or two miles, long ; and not fo broad. The North
Weft end of it is low, like the illands of Hapaee ; but it rifes
fuddenly in the middle, and terminates in reddilh clayey
clifts, at the South Eaft end, about thirty feet high. The
foil, in that quarter, is of the fame fort as in the cliffs ; but,
in the other parts, it is a loofc, black mould. It produces
the fame fruits and roots which we found at the other
iflands ; is tolerably cultivated, but thinly inhabited. While
I was walking all over it, our people were employed in
cutting fome grafs for the cattle ; and we planted fome me-
lon feeds, with which the natives feemed much pleafed, and
inclofcd them with branches. On our return to the boat,
we paired by two or three ponds of dirty water, which was
more or lefs brackifli in each of them ; and faw one of their
burying-places, which was much neater than thofe that
were met with at Hapaee.

On the 4th, at feven in the morning, we weighed ; and, Wednef 4.
with a frelh gale at Ealt South Eaft, ftood away for Anna-
mooka, where we anchored, next morning, nearly in the Thurfdayj
fame ftation which we had fo lately occupied.

I went on fliore foon after, and found the inhabitants

very bufy in their plantations, digging up yams to bring to

market ; and, in the courfe of the day, about two hundred

of them had affembled on the beach, and traded with as

I much

.t '! a

a7»

1777.

June.

t'Si

Friday 6.

. .1. . '

A VOYAGE TO

much cac;ernefs, as chiring our 'ate vifit. Their (lock ap-
peared to have been recruited much, though we had re-
turned fo Uwii ; but, inltead of bread-fruit, which was the
only article wc could purchafe on our fnil arrival, nothing
was to be fecn now but yams, and a few plantains. This
fliews the (piick i'ucceflion of the I'cafons, at leali: of the dif-
ferent vegetables produced here, at the leveral times of the
year, it apjwared alfo that they had been very bufy, while
>ve were abfent, in cultivating; tor we now faw feveral large
plantain fields, in places which we had, fo lately, fecn lying
wafte. The yams were now in the greatell perfe<^ion ; and
we procured a good quantity, in exchanges for pieces of
iron.

Thefe people, in the abfencc of Toobou, whom we left
behind us at Kotoo, with Poulaho and the other Chiefs,
feemed to be under little fubordination. For we could not
perceive, this day, that one man alUimcd more authority
than another. Before I returned on board, I vifited the
feveral places where I had fown melon feeds, and had the
mortification to find, that moft of them were delhoycd by
a fmall ant ; but fome pine-apple j l^nts, which I had alfo
left, were in a thriving ftate.

About noon, next day, Fcenou arrived from Vavaoo. lie
told us, that feveral canoes, laden with hogs, and other
provifions, which had failed with him from that illand, had
been loll, owing to the late blowing w'eather; and that every
body on board them had perilhed. This melancholy tale
did not feem to affe<5t any of his countrymen who heard it ;
and, as to ourfelves, we were, by this time, too well ac-
quainted with his charadlcr, to gi\'c much credit to fu.h u
ftory. The truth, probably, was, that he had not been jI^V-
to procure at Vavaoo the fupplies which he expetSle . ' : , it

• he

i \

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

«73

1777'

Juo«.

he got any there, that he had left them at liapaee, which
lay in his way back, ai\d .\here he i.»iild not but receive
intelligence that Ponliho had Ih'h with us ; who, there-
fore, he knew, would, u:, his fupenor, have all the merit
and reward of procuring them, though he h .1 not any
Ihare of the trouble. The invention (tf this lolj, at fra
was, however, well imagined. For theie had lately been
very blowing weather; in fo much, that the King, and
rher Chiefs, who had followed us from Hajwce to
>.otoo, had been left there, not caring to venture to
fea when we did ; but defired I might wait for them at
Annamooka, which was the reafon of my anchoring there,
this fecond time, and of my not proceeding diret^ly to
Tongataboo. '

The following morning, Poulaho, and the other Chiefs Saturday 7.
who had been wirul-bound with him, arrived. I ha )pened,
at this time, to be alhore in company with Feenoi' ; who
now feemed to be fenfible of the impropriety of hi^ con-
dudt, in alTuming a characSter that did not belong ti » him.
For he not only acknowledged Poulaho to be King of
Tongataboo, and the other ifles; but afte<Sled to infift
much on it, which, no doubt, was with a view to make
amends for his former prefumption. I left him, to ' ifit
this greater man, whom I found fitting with a few pc( pie
before him. But, every one battening to pay court to h.m,
the circle increafed pretty faft. I was very defirous of obr-
ferving Feenou's behaviour on this occafion; and had tlie
moft convincing proof of his fuperiority ; for he placed
himfelf amongft the rett that fat before Poiilaho, as atter-
dants on his majefty. He feemed, at firtt, rather abalbcd ;
as fomt of us were prefcnt who had been ufed to fee him
ix£i a different part ; but he foon recovered himfelf. Some
Vol. I. N n little

njilill-:'

274 A V O y' A G E T O

little convcrfation pali'ed between thefe two Chiefs, which
none of us undcrllood ; nor were we fatisficd with Omai's
interpretation of it. We were, however, by this time,
fulficicntly vuideceived as to Feenou's rank. Both he and
Poulaho went on board with me to dinner ; but only the
latter Iht at table. Feenou, having made his obeifance, in
the uiiial way, faluting his fovereign's foot with his head
and hands, retired out of the cabin ^'. The king had be-
fore told us, that this would happen ; and it now appeared,
that Feenou could not even eat nor drink in his royal pre-
fence.
Sunday 8. At eight o'clock, next morning, we weighed and fleer-
ed for Tongataboo, having a gentle breeze at North Eaft.
About fourteen or fifteen failing veflcls, belonging to the
natives, fet out with us ; but every one of them outrun the
fhips confiderably. Feenou was to have taken his pafTage
in the Refolution ; but preferred his own canoe ; and put
two men on board, to Jondu<Sl us to the beft anchorage.
We fleered South by Weft by compafs.

At five in the afternoon we faw two fmall illands, bear-

.?»i'.'

• Marks of profound rcfpedl, very fimilar to thofe paid by natives of the Friendly
Iflands to their fo\crcign, are alfo paid to the principal Chiefs, or Tamoles of the Caroline
Iflunds, as appears from fethcr Cantova's account here tranfcribed. " Lorfqu'un Tamole
" donne audience, il paroit aflis fur une table elevce : Ics peuples s'inclineni devant lui
" jufqu'a terre ; & du plus loin qu'ils arrivcnt, ils marchent le corps tout courbe, & la
•* tcte prefqu'entrc les gcnoux, jufqu'a cc qu'ils foient aupres de fa pcrfonne ; alors ils
" s'afleyent ;\ plate tcrrc ; &, les yeux bailies, ils re^oivcnt fes ordres a\ec le plus profond
" rcfpedl. Qiiand Ic Tamole les congedic, ils fe rctirent, en fe courbant de la meme
" maniere que quand ils font venus, ii ne fe rclevent que lorfqu'ils font hors dc fa pre-
" fence. Scs paroles font autant d'oracles qu'on revere ; on rend a fes ordres une
" obeiflance avcugle ; enfin, on baife les mains & les pieds, quand on lui demande
" quclque grace." Lettra EJifianUi Uf Qirieufes, Tom. xv. p. 312, 313.

ing

1*1

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

275

■c

i ! 1

«777-
June.

ing Weft, about four leagues diftant. Our pilots called the
one Hoonga Hapaee, and the other Hoonga Tonga. They
lie in the latitude of 20° 36'; and ten or eleven leagues
from the Weft point of Annamooka, in the direction of
South, 46° Weft. According to the account of the illanders
on board, only five men relide upon Hoonga Hapaee ; and
Hoonga Tonga is uninhabited ; but both of them abound
with fea-fowl.

We continued the fame courfe till two o'clock next Monday 9.
morning, when, feeing fome lights ahead, and not know-
ing whether they were on fliore, or on board the canoes,
we hauled the wind, and made a lliort trip, each way, till
day-break. We then refumed our courfe to the South by
Weft ; and, prefently after, faw feveral fmall illands before
us, and Eooa and Tongataboo beyond them. We had, at
this time, twenty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of
broken coral and fand. The depth gradually decreafed as
we drew near the ifies above mentioned, which lie ranged
along the North Eaft fide of Tongataboo. By the direc-
tion of our pilots we fteered for the middle of it, and for
the wideft fpace between the fmall ifies which we were to
pais ; having our boats ahead, employed in founding.
We were, infenfibly, drawn upon a large flat, upon which
lay innumerable coral rocks, of difterent depths, below
the furface of the water. Notwithftanding all our care
and attention to keep the fliip clear of them, we could not
prevent her from ftriking on one of thefe rocks. Ni)r
did the Difcovery, though behind us, efcape any better.
Fortunately, neither of the fliips ftuck faft, nor reccivcil
any damage. We could not get back without increafin^
the danger, as wc had come in almoft before the wind.
Nor could wc caft anchor, but with the certainty of having-

N n 2 our

276

A VOYAGE TO

•777-
June.

our cables inftantly cut in two by the rocks. We had no
other relburce but to proceed. To this, indeed, we were
encouraged, not only by being told, but by feeing, that
there was deeper water between us and the fhore. How-
ever, that we might be better informed, the moment we
found a fpot where we could drop the anchor, clear of
rocks, we came to ; and fent the Mafters, with the boats,
to found.

Soon after we had anchored, which was about noon, fe-
veral of the inhabitants of Tongataboo came oft" in their
canoes to the ihips. Thefe, as well as our pilots, aflured
us, that we Ihould find deep water farther in, and a bottom
free from rocks. They were not miftaken ; for, about four
o'clock, the boats made the fignal for having found good
anchorage. Upon this we weighed, and flood in till dark,
and then anchored in nine fathoms, having a fine, clear,
fandy bottom.

During the night we had fome fhowers of rain ; but to-
ward the morning, the wind fhifted to the South, and South
Tuefday 10. Eaft, and brought on fair weather. At day-break we weigh-
ed, and, working in to the fhore, met with no obflru<5tions,
but fuch as were vifible, and eafily avoided.

While we were plying up to the harbour, to which the
natives diredled us, the king kept failing round us in
his canoe. There were, at the fame time, a great many
fmall canoes about the fliips. Two of thefe, which could
not get out of the way of his royal vefTel, he run quite
over, with as little concern, as if they had been bits of
wood. Amongft many others who came on board the Re-
iblution, was Otago *, who had been fo ufeful to me when
J vifited Tongataboo during my lafl voyage ; and one Too-

See a print of him in Captain Cook's Vopge, Vol. i. p. 197.

bou,

at
;^-
;re
of
:s,

e-
;ir
ed
m
ur
od
•k,
ar,

:o-

ith

ill-
:he

in
my
aid
lite

of
fle-
len

00-

ou»

.^''^^o;^

^., ..,..,•

, • - ■».-,(». ^.„ . .^

„^.^ — f

\ 1,11 iii>)

\ .,11.

\ Mil,. ; Mil

IN i<

.V /• /,• r r //

In V ('. ,\ I'.W.oo II \K iioi 1- .

(ll.lliv.il.Mv I'.. ml

I l,.il 21. «.<';.!■.

c:i3

V...V-"

:^J■ ,a.; ; ^^

c:i:3

ft In,,...,.

;

All \T\ \ ,

M.,ll -.1.

I N

Mil.

77,. ir.!/m,'/.,:\,:.:,..i /■: II

)

i
\

•i!

■ \

.¥;

'.^■.1 i'

\<t '.'

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

bou, who, at that time, had attached himfelf to Captain
Furneaux. Each of them brought a hog, and fome yams,
as a teftimony of his friendfhip ; and I was not wanting, on
my part, in making a fuitable return.

At length, about two in the afternoon, we arrived at our
intended ftation. It was a very fnug place, formed by the
Ihore of Tongataboo on the South Eaft, and two fmall
illands on the Eaft and North Eaft. Here we anchored in
ten fathoms water, over a bottom of oozy fand, diftant
from the ftiore one-third of a mile.

277

»777«
June.

CHAP.

*»•

^7«

A VOYAGE TO

CHAP. VII.

fkiik- i

Kl ■■ 'M

Friend/y Reception at Ton-^a taboo. — Manner of dif.ributin^ a
baked Hog and Kava to VouJaho's Attendants. — The Ob'
fervatorVf &c. erected. — The r/7/cJoe zvhere the Chiefs rejide,
and the adjoining Country^ defcribed. — Interviezvs 'with Ma~
reezvageef and Toobou, and the King's Son. — A grand
Haiva^ or Entertainment of Songs and Dances^ given by
Mareezvagce. — Exhibition of Fireworks. — Manner of IVreJl-
ling and Boxing. — Dijiribution of the Cattle. — Thefts com-
mitted bv the Natives. — Poulahoy and the other Chiefs^ con-
fined on that Account. — Poulaho's Prefent, and Haiva.

SOON a
landed,

f *

after we had anchored, having firft dined, I
accompanied by Omai, and fome of the Of-
Tuefday lo. ficers. We found the king waiting for us upon the beach.
He, immediately, condinfled us to a fmall neat houfe, fitu-
ated a little within the ikirts of the wood, with a fine large
area before it. This houfe, he told me, was at my fcrvice,
during our ftay at the illand ; and a better fituation we
could not wilh for.

We had not been long in the houfe, before a pretty Ir^rgc
circle of the natives w ere aflcmbled before us, and ieatcd
upon the area. A root of the kava plant being brought and
laid down before the king, he ordered it to be fplit into
pieces, and dilhibuted to fcveral peoi)lc of both fexes, who
began the operation of chewing it ; and a bowl of their fa-
vourite

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

279

voiirite liquor was foon prepared. In the mean timr a
baked hog, and two bafkets of baked yams, were produtv ,
and afterward divided into ten portions. Thefe portions
were then given to certain people prefent ; but how many
were to fliare in each, I could not tell. One of them, I
obilrved, was bertowed upon the king's brother ; and one
remained undifixjfed of, which, I judged, was for the
king himfelf, as it was a choice bit. The liquor was next
ferved out ; but Poulaho feemed to give no directions
about it. The firll cup was brought to him, which he
ordered to be given to one who fat near him. The fecond
was alfo brought to him, and this he kept. The third
was given to me ; but their manner of brewing having
q\ienched my thirll, it became Omai's property. The reft
of the liquor was diftributed to different people, by direc-
tion of the man who had the management of it. One of
the cups being carried to the king's brother, he retired
with this, and with his mefs of victuals. Some others
alfo quitted the circle with their portions ; and the reafon
was, they could neither eat nor drink in the royal prefence ;
but there were others prefent, of a much inferior rank, of
both fexes, who did both. Soon after, moft of them with-
drew, carrying with them what they had not eat of their
fliare of the feaft.

I obfcrved, that not a fourth part of the company had
taftcd either the vidluals or the drink ; thofe who partook
of the former, I fiippofed to be of the king's houfliold. The
fervants who diltributed the baked meat, and the kava<, al-
ways delivered it out of their hand fitting, not only to the
king, but to every other perfon. It is worthy of remark,
though this was the firft time of our landing, and a great
muny people were prefent who had never feen us before,
3 yet

«777-
June.

iSo

A VOYAGE TO

June.

';■', -jN

Sftii ■;!

yet no one was troublclome ; but the ^rcateil good order
Mas preferved, throughout the whole airembly.

Before I returned on board, I went in fearch of a water-
ing place, and was condut5ted to Ibme ix)nds, or rather holes,
containing frefli water, as they were plcalbd to call it. The
contents of one of thefe, indeed, were tolerable; but it was
at ibme diftance inland, and the lupply to be got trom it
was very inconfulerable. Being informed, that the Uttle
illand of Pangimodoo, near which the flaps lay, could
better furnifli this neccHary article, I went over to it, next
WeJnef. it. momiug, and was fo fortunate as to find there a fmall pool,
that had rather freflier water, than any we had met with
amongll thefe illands. The pool being very dirty, I or-
dered it to be cleaned ; and here it was that we watered
the fliips.

As I intended to make fome ftay at Tongataboo, we
pitched a tent, in the forenoon, jull by the houfe which
Poulaho had alTigned for our ufe. The horfes, cattle, and
flieep, were afterward landed, and a party of marines,
with their Officer, Rationed there as a guard. The obfer-
vatory was then fe • up, at a fmall diftance from the other
tent ; and Mr. King refided on fliore, to attend thv- obfer-
vations, and to fupcrii tend the feveral operations neccflary
to be condudlcd there. Kor the fails were carried thither,
to be repaired ; a party was employed in cvitting wood for
fuel, and plank for the ufe of the fhips ; and the gunners
of both, were ordered to remain upon the fpot, to condu(5l
the traffic with the natives, who thronged from every part
of the illand, with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and other arti-
cles of their produce. In a fliort time, our land poll was
like a fair, and the fliips were fo crowded with vilitcrs, that
we had hardly room to ftir upon the decks.

Fecnou

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

l8i

Fecnovi had taken \ip his refulence in our neighbourhood ;
l)ut he was no longer the leading man. However, we Hill
found hini to be a pcrfon ofconreciuencc, and we had daily
proofs of his opulence and liberality, by the continuance of
his valuable prefents. But the king was equally attentive
in this refped ; for fcarcely a day palled, without receiving
from him fome confiderable donation. We now heard, that
there were other great men of the illand, whom wc had
not, as yet, feen. Otago and Toobou, in particular, men-
tioned a perlbn named Mareewagee, who, they laid, was
of the firll confecjuence in the jilace, and held in great ve-
neration ; nay, if Omai did not mifunderrtand them, fupe-
perior even to Poulaho, to whom he was related ; but, being
old, lived in retirement; and, therefore, woidd not vilit us.
Some of the natives even hinted, that he was too great a
man to confer that honour upon us. This accotmt exciting
my curiofity, I, this day, mentioned to Poulaho, that I was
very defirous of waiting upon Mareewagee ; and he readily
agreed to accompany me, to the place of his relidence, the
next morning.

Accordingly, we fet o\it, pretty early, in the pinnace; Thurf. ij.
and Captain Gierke joined me in one of his own boats.
We proceeded round, that is, to the Eaftward of the little illes
that form the harbour, and then, turning to the South, ac-
cording to Poulaho's dire6lions, entered a fpacio\is bay or
inlet, up which we rowed about a league, and landed amidil
a confiderable number of people, who received vis with a
fort of acclamation, not vinlikc our huzzaing. They im-
mediately fcparated, to let Poidaho pafs, who took us into a
J'mall indofure, and fliifted the piece of cloth he wore, for
a new piece, neatly folded, that was carried by a young
man. An old woman alFirted in drefling him, and put a

Vol. I.

O o

mat

'«-'il

i8i

A VOYAGE TO

'i^

mat over his doth; as \\c lupiHjfcd, to prevent its heing

dirtied when he fat down. On our now alking him nhcrc

Miutcwagcc was, to our .i^rcat furprizc, he laid, he had

i;()ne trom the phue, to the (hip, jult hct'orc wc arrived.

However, he defired us to walk with him to a fnalaecy or

hoiilc of public relort, which Itood about hah" a mile up

the country. Hut w hen wc tame to a lari;c area before it,

he I'at down in tl^e path, and dellrcd us to walk up to the

houfe. We did fo, and Ibated ourfelves in front, while the

crowd tliat followed lis hllcd up the relt of the fpace. After

fittinm a little while, wc rei)eatcd our in([uiries, by means of

Omai, Whether wc were to fee Marecwai^ee ? But receiving

no fatisfactory information, and fufpcdting that the oUl

Chief was piirpofely concealed from us, we went back to

our boats, much picpied at our difappointment ; antl when

I got on board, 1 found that no fuch perfon had been there.

It afterward appeared, that, in this affair, we had laboured

under fome grofs miltakes, and that our interpreter Omai

had either been milinformed, or, which is more likely, had

mifunderltood what w as told him al)()ut the great man, on

whole account we had made this excurlion.

The place we went to was a village, moft delightfully
lituated on the bank of the inlet, w here all, or molt of the
])rincipal perlbns of the illand relide ; each having his houfe
in the midll of a fmall plantation, with leH'er boiifes, and
oflkes for lervants. Thele plantations are neatly fenced
round ; and, for the moll part, have only one entrance.
This is l)y a door, faltencd, on the inlule, 1)y a prop of wood;
lb that a perlon has to knock, l)ef()re he lan get admitt'uice.
Public roads, and narrow lanes, lie between each planta-
tion ; lb that no one trelpaHeth ujH)n another. (Hreat part
of Ibme of thelc inclol'ures is laid out in grals-plots, and

})lauted

I .

!.-M?

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

a83

Iiiniv

planted %vUh imh things as fcem more for ornumcnt tluui
ulc. Ikit hardly any where m ithoiit the kava plant, from
which they make their favourite li<iuor. Every article of
the vegetable produce of the illaiul, abounded in others of
thefe plantatii ns; but thele, I oblerved, are not the rcll-
dence of pct)ple of the firll rank. Tiiere are fonie lar'\e
houfes near the public roads, with Ipacious fniooth grafs-
plots before them, and unintlofed. Thele, 1 was told, be-
longed to the king ; and, probably, they are the places
where their public allemblies are held. It was to one of
thefe houfes, as I have already mentioned, that we were
condudted, foon after our landing at this place.

About noon, the next day, this Mareewagee, of whom FriJayn.
we liad heard lb much, actually came to the neighbour-
hood of our poft on fliore ; and, with hmi, a very conlide-
rablc number of people of all ranks. I w as informed, that
he had taken this trouble, on purpofc to give me an oppor-
tunity of waiting upon him ; having, probably, heard of
the dilpleafure 1 had fliewn, on my difappointment the day
before. In the afternoon, a party of us, accompanied by
Feenou, landed, to pay him a viiit. We found a perfon
fitting under a large tree, near the fliore, a little to the
right of the tent. A piece of cloth, at leaft forty yards
long, was fpread before him, round which a great number
of people, of 1)oth fcxes, were feated. It was natural to
fuppofc, that this was the great man ; but we were unde-
ceived by Feenou; who informed us, that another, who
fat on a piece of mat, a little way from this Chief, to the
right hand, was Mareewagee, and he introduced us to him,
who received us very kindly, and dclircd us to fit down by
him. The perfon, who fat \inder the tree, fronting us,
was called Toobou; and, when I have occalion to fpeak of

O o i him

n>:

''■> A

■f:, '.

2^4

A VOYAGE TO

'-77.

lune.

(I{ ill

i .' 1' :

(if ■ ' *!'■'

$/' ■ I'r

f r

liim afterward, I fliall call him old Toobou, to dlftingiiifli
him from liis namcfukc, Captain Furneaux's friend. Both he
and Marccwagce had a venerable appearance. The latter
is a ilender man, and, from his appearance, feems to be
conliderably above threefcore years of age. The former is
rather corpulent, and almoft blind with a diforder of his
eyes ; though not fo old.

Not expediting to meet with two Chiefs, on this occafion,
I hatl only brought on fliore a prefent for one. This I now
found myfelf under a necellity of dividing between them ;
but it happened to be pretty conliderable, and both of them
fecmed fatisfied. After this, we entertained them, ibr about
an hoin-, with the performance of two French horns, and a
drum. But they I'eemed moll pleafed with the liring otf a
pillol, which Captain Clerke had in his pocket. Before I
took my leave, the large piece of cloth was rolled tip, and,
with a few cocoa-nuts, prefented to me.
Saturday 14. The ucxt morning, oltl Toobou returned my vifit on
board the Ihip. Me alfo vifited Captain Clerke ; and if the
prefent we made to him, the evening before, was fcanty,
the deficiency was now made up. During this time, Ma-
reewagce vifited our people artiore; and Mr. King flie wed
to him cverv thine; we had there. Me viewed the cattle
w ith great admiration ; antl the crols-cut law lixcd his at-
tention for Ibmc time.

Toward noon, I'oulaho returned from the ])lacc where
we hail left him two days before, and brought with him his
fon, a youth al)out twelve years of age. I had his company
at dinner; but the Ion, though prclent, was not allowed to
fit down with him. It was very convenient to liave him for
my gueil. For when he was prei'ent, which was generally
the cafe while we Itayed here, every other native was

exeiudcd

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

iSs

1777-
June.

excluded from the table ; and but few of them would re-
main in the cabin. Whereas, if, l)y chance, it happened
that neither he nor Fcenou were on board, the inferior
Chiefs would be very importunate to be of our dining party,
or to be admitted into the cabin at that time ; and then we
were fo crowded, that we could not lit down to a meal with
any fatisfa^Slion. The king was very loon reconciled to our
manner of cookery. But Itill, I believe, he dined thus fre-
quently with me, more for the lake of what we gave him
to drink, than for what we fet before him to eat. 1 or he
had taken a liking to our wine, could empty his bottle as
well as moll men, and was as cheerful over it. He now
fixed his refidcnce at the houlc, or Mci/aee^ by our tent ; and
there he entertained our people, this evening, with a dance.
To the furprize of every body, the unwieldy Poulaho en-
deavoured to vie with others, in that a6tive amiilemcnt.

In the morning of the 15th, I received a meliage from Sunday ij.
old Toobou, that he wanted to fee me afliorc. Accordingly
Omai and I went to wait upon him. We found liim, like
an ancient patriarch, feated under the lliade of a tree, with a
large piece of the cloth, made in the illand, ipread out at
full length before him ; and a number of refpedVably look-
ing people fitting romul it. 1 le delired us to j)lace ourlclvcs '
by him ; and then he told Omai, that the cloth, together
with a piece of red feathers, ami about a dozen cocoa-nuts,
were his jirefent to me. 1 thanked him for the favoin- ;
and delircd he wo\ild go on board with me, as 1 had nothing
on Ihore to "ive him in return.

Omai now left me, being lent for by Poulaho ; and, foon
after, l-'eenou came, ami accpiaintcil me that young l'"atta-
faihe, Poidaho's ion, delired to fee me. I obeyed the i"uni-
mons, and fountl the prince, and Omai, fitting under a

large

-M A

\A.

■-^i?

zHb

June.

A VOYAGE TO

large canopy of the finer fort of cloth ; with a piece of the
courfer fort, f})rea{l under them and before them, that was
feventy-fix yards long, and feven and a half broad. On one
lide was a large old boar ; and on the other fide a heap of
tocoa-niits. A number of people were feated round the
cloth ; and, amongll them, 1 obferved Mareewagee, and
others of the firil rank. I was delired to iit down by the
print e ; and then Omai informed me, that he had been in-
Ihiiiifed by the king to tell me, that, as he and I \\ ere friends,
he hoped that his fon might be joined in this friendfhip;
antl that, as a token of my confent, I would accept of his
prefent. I very readily agreed to the i)ropofal ; and, it being
now dinner-time, I invited them all on board.

Accordingly, the yoimg prince, Mareewagee, old Toobou,
three or four inferior Chiefs, and two rcfpcdf able old ladies
of the firif rank, accompanied me. Mareewagee wa^ dreired
in a new piece of cloth, on the ikirts of which m ere fixed
fix pretty large patches of red feathers. This drefs ieemcd
to have been made, on piuixjfe, for this vifit ; for, as loon
as he got on board, he put it ofi^", and i)rellnted it to me ;
having, I guefs, heard that it woukl be acceptable, on ac-
count of the feathers. Every one of my viliters received
from me fuch prelents, as, I had reafon to believe, they were
highly fatisfied with. When dinner came upon table, not
one of them would fit down, or eat a bit of any thing that
was ferved up. On exprefling my furprize at this, they
were all fal^oOj as they laid ; wiiich word has a very com-
prehcnlive meaning; but, in general, rignilies that a thing-
is forbidden. Why they were laid under fuch reliiaints, at
preient, was not explained. Dinner being over, and, having
gratified their curiofity, b\ Ihewing to them every part of
the fliip, I then conducted them allK)re.

Ki.-'i ,.• jB-fe.:

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

As foon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou, and
fome others, inrtantly ftepped out. Young Fattafaihe fol-
lowing them, was called back, by Mareewagce, who now
paid the heir apparent the fame obeifance, and in the
fame manner, that I had fecn it paid to the king. And
when old Toobou, and one of the old ladies, had fliewn
him the fame marks of rcfpe<51:, he was fufFered to land.
This ceremony being over, the old people Hepped from my
boat, into a canoe, that was waiting to carry them to their
place of abode.

I was not lorry to be prefent on this occafion, as I was
thus furniflied with the moil unequivocal proofs of the fu-
preme dignity of Poulaho and his fon, over the other prin-
cipal Chiefs. Indeed, by this time, I had acquired fome
certain information about the relative lituations of tlie fe-
veral great men, whofe names have been fo often men-
tioned. 1 now knew, that Mareewagce and old Toobou
were brothers. Both of them were men of great property
in the iiland, and feemed to l)e in high ellimation \\ ith the
people ; the former, in particular, had the very honourable
appellation given to him, by every body, of Motooa 7'o)i>^a ;
that is to fay. Father of Tonga, or of his Country. The
nature of his relationfliip to the king was alfo no longer a
fecret to us ; for we now undcrllood, that he was his father-
in-law; Poulaho having married one of his daughters, by
whom ho had this fon ; fo that Mareewagce was the prince's
grandfather. Poulaho's appearance having fatisficd us, that
we had been under a millake, in conlldering Feenou as the
fovereign of thefe illands, we had been, at firrt, much puz-
zled about his real rank; but that was, l)y this time, afcer-
tained. Feenou was one of Mareewagee's fons ; and Too-
boueitoa was another.

I On

287

1777-
June.

V I

1 ■;■

2S8

A VOYAGE TO

■ S .Mil

On mv landing, I found the king, in the houfe adjoining
to our tent, along with our people who rcfided on fliore.
The moment I got to him, he hellowed upon me a prclent
of a large hog, and a quantity of yams. Ahout the dulk
of the evening, a nimiher of men came, and, having fat
down in a round grgup, hegan to ling in concert with
the mufic (^f hamhoo drums, which were placed in the
centre ••. There were three long ones, and two lliort. With
thcfe they llruck the ground endwile, as hclbre dcfcrihcd.
There were two others, which lay on the ground, lule by
fide, and one of them was fplit or Ihivered; on thefe a man
kept heating with two fmall Iticks. They lung three longs
while I llayed ; and, I was told, that, after I left them, the
entertainment lallcd till ten o'clock. They burnt the leaves
of the zvbnrra palm for a light; which is the only thing I
ever law them make ufe of for this purpofe.

While I was pafling the day in attendance on thefe great
men, Mr. Anderlbn, with fome others, made an excurlion
into the country, which furnhhed him with the following
remarks : " To the Welhvard of the tent, the country is
totally uncultivateil for near two miles, though quite co-
vered with trees and buflies, in a natinal rtate, growing
with the greatert vigotu'. Ecyond this is a pretty large
plain, on which are fome cocoa-trees, and a few fmall
plantations that appear to have been lately made ; and,
fcemingly, on groimd that has never been cultivated before.
Near the creek, which runs to the Welhvard of the tent,

• The fame f<irt of evening cor.ccrt is performed round the houfc of the Chief, or Ja-
moL\ at the CaroIii\e Iflands. " Lc Tumble ne s'cndort iju'.ui bruit d'un concert de
" mufique que fnrmc line troupe de jeiincs gens, qui s'aflemWent !e foir, autour dc fa
" maifon, et qui chantcnt, a Itur inanicrc, certaines poL-fics." Liitrcs Edif.MUi it Qi.
rieujl.', Tom. xv. p. 314.

the

p- ■

>'S

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

289

»777-
June.

the land is quite flat, and partly overflowed by the fea every
tide. When that retires, the furface is leen to be compofed
of coral rock, with holes of yellowidi mud fcattered up and
down ; and toward the edges, where it is a little firmer, arc
innumerable little openings, from which iflue as many
fmall crabs, of two or three difterent forts, which fwarni
upon the fpot, as flies upon a carcafe ; but are fo nimble,
that, on being approached, they difappear in an inltant, and
baffle even the natives to catch any of them.

At this place is a work, of art, which lliews, that thcfe
people are capable of Ibme defign, and perfeverance, when
they mean to accomplifli any thing. This work begins,
on one fide, as a narrow caufeway, ^\ hich, becoming gra-
dually broader, rifes, with a gentle afcent, to the height of
ten feet, where it is five paces broad, and the whole length
feventy-four paces. Joined to this is a fort of circus,
whole diameter is thirty paces, and not above a foot or two
highei' than the caufeway that joins it, with ibme trees
planted in the middle. On the oppofite fide, another caufe-
way of the fame fort defcends ; but this is not above forty
paces long, and is partly in ruin. The whole is built with
large coral ftones, with earth on the furface, which is quite
overgrown with low trees and flirubs ; and, from its de-
caying in feveral places, feems to be of no modern date.
Whatever may have been its ufe formerly, it feems to be
of none now ; and all that we could learn of it from the
natives v.as, that it belonged to Poulaho, and is called
Etchee'''

On the i6th, in the morning, after vifiting the feveral Monday 16.
works now carrying on alhorc, Mr. (jorc, and 1, took a walk
into the country ; in the courfe of which nothing remark-
able appeared, but our having opportunities of feeing the
Vol. I. P p whole

A VOYAGE TO

%^holc procefb of making doth, which is the principal ma-
niita<5lure of thefc illands, as well as of many others in this
Ocean. In the narrative of my firft Voyage *, a minute
defcription is given of this operation, as performed at
Otaheite ; but the procefs, here, differing in fome parti-
culars, it may be worth while to give the following account
of it :

The manufadlurers, who are females, take the flender
ftalks or trunks of the paper-mulberry, which they culti-
vate for that purpofe ; and which feldom grows more than
fix or feven ftet in height, and aliout four lingers in thick-
nefs. From thefe they ftrip the bark, and fcrape off the
outer rind with a mufcle-ihell. The bark is then rolled
up to take off" the convexity which it had round the ftalk,
and macerated in water for fome time (they fay, a night).
After this, it is laid acrofs the trunk of a fmall tree fquared,
and beaten ^^ith a fcjuare wooden inftrument, about a foot
long, full of coarfe grooves on all fides; but, fometimes,
with one that is plain. According to the fize of the bark,
a piece is foon produced ; but the operation is often re-
peated by anotlier hand, or it is folded feveral times, and
beat longer, which feems rather intended to clofe than to
divide its texture. When this is fufficiently effeded, it is
fpread out to dry ; the ]>ieces being from four to fix, or
more, feet in length, and half as broad. They are then
given to aiiotlicr perfon, who joins the pieces, by fmear-
ing jiart of them over with the vifcous Juice of a berry,
called /ooo, which ferves as a glue. Having been thus
lengthened, they are laid over a large jiiece of wood, with
a kind of fiamp, made of a iibrous iubllance pretty clofely
interwoven, ])laced beneath. They then take a bit of cloth>

» Hawkcfwortli's Colledion of Voyages, \'ol. ii. p. 210.

and

-ii 1

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

and clip it in a juice, cxpreiTcd from the bark of a tree,
called kokka^ which they rub brifkly upon the piece that is
making. This, at once, leaves a dull brown colour, and a
dry glols upon its lurface ; the Itamp, at the fame time,
making a llight impreihon, that anl'wcrs no other pur-
pofe that I could fee, but to make the feveral pieces, that
arc glued together, ftick a little more firmly. In this man-
ner they proceed, joining and Gaining by degrees, till they
])roduce a piece of cloth, of fuch length and breadth as
they want; generally leaving a border, of a foot broad, at
the fides, and longer at the ends, unltained. Through-
out the whole, if any parts of the original pieces are too
thin, or have holes, which is often the cafe, they glue fpare
bits upon them, till they become of an ecpal thicknefs.
When they want to produce a black colour, they mix the
foot procured from an oily nut, called dooedooe, with the
juice of the kokka, in difterent quantities, according to the
propofed depth of the tinge. They fay, that the black fort
of cloth, which is commonly molt glazed, makes a cold
drefs, but the other a warm one ; and, to obtain Itrength
in both, they are always careful to join the fmall pieces
lengthwife, which makes it impoflible to tear the cloth in
any diredVion but one.

On our return from the country, we met with Feenou,
and took him, and another young Chief, on board to din-
ner. When our fare was fet u^on the table, neither of
them would eat a bit ; faying, that they were taboo avy.
But, after inquiring how the vidtuals had been drelTed,
having found that no avy (water) had been ufed in cooking
a i)ig and fome yams, the> both fat down, and made a
very hearty meal ; and, on being affvired that there was no
water in the wine, they drank of it alio. From this we

P p 2

conJevStiu'ed,

29 E

«777'
June.

S'j''

I ^ ... j

■Si:<

\^^

-9-

A VOYAGE TO

conjcdured, that, on Come account or another, they were,
at this time, forbicUlen to ule water; or, which was more
probable, they did not Ukc the water we made ufe of, it be-
ing taken up out of one of their bathing-places. This was
not the only time of our meeting with people that were
faAoo avy ; but, for what realon, we never could tell with
any degree of certainty.
Tuefday 17. Next day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Marcewagce, for
giving a grand Haiva^ or entertainment ; to which we were
all invited. For this piirpofe a large fpace had been cleared,
before the temporary hut of this Chief, near our poll, as
an area where the performances were to be exhibited. In
the morning, great multitudes of the natives came in from
the coinitry, every one carrying a pole, about fix feet long,
upon his Ihoulder ; and at each end of every pole, a yam
was fufiKndcd. Thcfe yams and poles were depofited on
each fide of the area, fo as to form two large heaps, deco-
rated with different forts of finall fifh, and piled up to the
greateft advantage. They were Mareewagee's prefent to
Captain Clerkc and me ; and it was hard to fay, whether the
wood for fuel, or the yams for food, were of moll v\alue to
\is. As for the lifli, they might ferve to jileafe the fight,
but were very ofFenfnc to the fmell ; part of them having
been kept two or three days, to be i)rclcntcd to us on this
occafion.

Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock
they began to exhibit various dances, which they call f7iai.
Tlie mufic *■ confided, at firlt, of Icventy meii as a chorus,
"\\ ho fat down ; and amidll them were placed three inllru-
ments, whuh we (ailed drums, though very unlike them.

* Mr. Andcrfon's dcfcription of the entertainments of this day being much fullc. than
Captain Cook's, it has been adopted as on a former occafion.

They

K '.

_ .ill,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

293

They arc large cylindrical pieces of wood, or trunks of
trees, from three to four feet long, fomc twite as thick as
an ordinary fized man, and bmc I'mallcr, hollowed entirely
out, but dole at both ends, and open only by a chink, about
three inches broad, running almoll the whole length of the
drums ; by which opening, the rell of the wood is certainly
hollowed, though the operation mull be dilFicult. This in-
ftrument is called najff'a ; and, with the chink turned toward
them, they fit and beat rtrongly upon it, with two cylin-
drical pieces of hard wood, about a foot long, and as thick
as tlic V, rift ; by which means they produce a rude, though
loud and powerful found. They vary the ftrcngth uiul
rate of their beating, at different parts of the danc c ; and
ulfo change the tones, by beating in the middle, or near the
end, of their drvuTi.

The firft dance confiftcd of four ranks, of twenty-four
men each, holding in their hands a little, thin, light,
wooden inftrument, above two feet long, and, in fliapc,
not unlike a fmall oblong paddle. With thefe, which are
called pagge^ they made a great many different motions ;
fnch as pointing them toward the ground on one fide, at
the fame time inclining their bodies that way, from which
they v/ere fliifted to the oppolite fide in the lame manner ;
then pafiing them quickly from one hand to the other, and
twirling them about very dextroully ; with a variety of
other manoeuvres, all which were accompanied by corre-
Iponding attitudes of the body. Their motions were, at firft,
flow, but quickened as the drums beat fafter ; and they re-
cited fentences, in a mufical tone, the whole time, which
were anfwered by the chorus ; hut at the end of a fliorc
fpace they all joined, and finifiied with a Ihout.

After cealing about two or three minutes, they began as

before^

«777'
June.

m-hhu

0^'l^dn

wm/mm

■04

177'-
|uiir.

A VOYAGE TO

before, ami continued, with fliort intervals, above a ([uarter
of an hoin* ; when the rear rank dividing, Ihifted themfclves
very llowly round each end, and, meeting in the front,
formed the lirll rank. ; the whole number continuing to
recite the fentences as before. The other ranks did the
lame fuccellively, till that which, at firlt, was the front,
became the rear ; and the evolution continued, in the fame
manner, till the lall rank regained its firll fitviation. They
then began a much quicker dance (though ilow at firll),
and fung for about ten minutes, when the whole liody di-
viiled into two parts, retreated a little, and then approach-
ed, forming a fort of circular figure, which finilhed the
dance ; the drums being removed, and the chorus going
oft' the field at the fame time.

The fecond dance had only two drums, with forty men
for a chorus ; and the dancers, or rather a6tors, confillcd of
two ranks, the foremoft having feventeen, and the other fif-
teen perfons. Feenou was at their head, or in the middle
of the front rank, which is the principal place in thefe cafes.
They danced and recited fentences, w ith fome very fhort in-
tervals, for about half an hour, fometimes quickly, fome-
times more flowly, but with fuch a degree of exadtnefs, as
if all the motions were made by one man, which did them
great credit. Near the clofe, the back rank divided, came
round, and took the place of the front, which again re-
fumed its fituation, as in the firft dance ; and when they
finilhed, the drums and chorus, as before, went off^.

Three drums (which, at leall, took two, and fometimes
three men to carry them) were now brought in ; and fe-
venty men fat down as a chorus to the third dance. This
confifted of two ranks, of fixteen ])erfons each, with young
Toobou at their head, w ho was richly ornamented with a

fort

!*■'

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

295

fort of garment covered with red feathers. Thefc danced,
fung, and twirled the poi^^re^ as before ; but, in general,
much (juicker, and performed fo well, that they had the
conlhuit ai)})laulcs of the fpe(flators. A motion that met
with i)articular approbation, was one in which they held
the face afide, as if afliamed, and the pagge before it. The
back rank clofed lieforc the front one, and that again re-
fumed its place, as in tlie two former dances ; but then they
began again, formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each
end of the area, and left the greateft part of the ground
clear. At that inllant, two men entered very haftily, and ex-
crcifed the clubs which they life in battle. They did this,
by firrt twirling them in their hands, and making circular
ftrokes before them with great force and qui'^knefs ; but fo
fkilfuUy managed, that, though ftanding quite clofe, they
never interfered. They lliiftcd their chibs from hand to
hand, with great dexterity ; and, after continuing a little
time, kneeled, and made different motions, tofling the
clubs up in the air, which they cavight as they fell ; antl
then went off" as haftily as they entered. Their heads were
covered with pieces of white cloth, tied at the crown (al-
moft like a night-cap) with a wreath of foliage round the
forehead ; but they had only very fmall pieces of white
cloth tied about their waifts ; probably, that they might be
cool, and free from every encumbrance or weight. A per-
fon with a fpcar, drcfled like the former, then came in, and
in the fame hafty manner; looking about eagerly, as if in
fearch of fomcbody to throw it at. He then ran haftily to
one fide of the crowd in the front, and put himfelf in a
threatening attitude, as if he meant to ftrike with his fpcar
at one of them, bending the knee a little, and trembling,
as it were with rage. He continued in this manner only a
\ few

'777-
June.

•lA

2lj6

A VOYAGE T O

June.

%■:

few fcconds, uhcn ho moved to the other fide, and havinj^
llood in the lame poihnc there, for the lame Ihort time,
retreated from the ^roiind, as fait as when he made his ap-
pearance. The dancers, who had (hvided into two parties,
kept repcatiiit; lomcthin^ How ly all this while ; and now
advanced, and Joined ai^ain, ending with nniverlal applaiifc.
It rtioidd leem that this dance was conlidered as one of their
cai)ital performances, if we miu,ht jiidvi;e from lome of the
principal peoi)le l)ein;i; engai;eil in it. For one of the drums
was heat hy Futtafaihe, tlie hrother of I'oulaho, another hy
Fecnoii, and the third, wliich (Ud not helon.i>; to the chorus,
by Mareewagec himlelf, at the entrance of his hut.

The lall dance had forty men, and two drums, as a
chorus. It conlilled of llxty men, who had not danced
before, dilpofed in three row s, having twenty-four in front.
But, before they began, we were entertained with a pretty
long preliminary harangue, in which the whole body made
refponfes to a fingle perlon who Ipoke. They recited {cn-
tences (i>erhaps verfes) alternately with the chorus, and
made many motions with the poi^j^e, in a very brilk mode,
which were all applauded with inarccai! \\\\(\ fyfogge ! words
exprefling two different degrees of i^raife. They divided
into two bodies, with their backs to each other; formed
again, fliifted their ranks, as in the other dances ; divided
and retreated, making room for two champions, who cx-
ercifed their clubs as before ; and after them two others :
the dancers, all the time, reciting How ly in turn w ith the
chorus ; after which they advanced, and hniflicd.

Tiicle dances, if they can properly be calkd fo, larted
from eleven till near three o'clock ; and though they were,
doubtlels, intended, particvdarly, either in honour of us,
or to fliew a fpecimen of their dexterity, vait numbers of

their

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

their own pc()i)lc attcndctl as ri>e»^ators. Their iiunibcrs
tould not be conipiitecl cxadtly, on aaoiint of the ine(iviaHty
of the i^round ; but, by retkoniii^ the inner i irele, and the
number in depth, uhith was between twenty and thirty in
many i>laccs, we fuppoled that there mull he near tour
thoufand. At the fame time, there were round the tracHn^
place at the tent, and llrau^glin^ about, at leall as many
more ; and fomc of us c:omputc(l, that, at this time, there
were not lefs than ten or twelve thoufand people in our
neighbomiiood ; that is, within the compafs of a quarter
of a mile ; drawn together, for the mott part, by mere
turiofity.

It is with regret I mention, that wc could not luiderftand
what was fix)ken, while we were able to fee what was a«5led,
in thefe amufements. This, doid)tlefs, would have afforded
us much information, as to the genius and curtoms of thefe
people. It was obfervable, that, though the fpcdlators al-
ways approved of the various motions, when well made, a
great fliare of the plcafure they received feemed to arife
from the fentimental part, or what the performers delivered
hi their fpeeches. However, the mere ailing part, inde-
pendently of the fentences repeated, was well worth our no-
tice, both with refnc(^ tu the extenfive plan on which it was
executed, and to the various motions, as well as the exadl
unity, with v\ hit h they were performed. The drawings
whicli Mr. Webber made of the performances at Hapaee,
and \\hi(h .ire equally applicable to thofe exhibited now,
will fer\ c much to illuilrate the account here given of the
order in which the adlors range themfelves. But neither
pencil nor pen can defcribc the numerous adlions and mo-
tions, the fingularity of which was not grcnrci, than was the
eafe and gracefulncfs with which they ^^ ere performed.
Vol. I. gq At

297

»777-
June.

igS

A VOYAGE TO

June.

At night, we were entertained with the l/omaif or night
(lances, on a Ipace before I'^cenou's temporary habitation.
Thev lartcd about three hours ; in which time we had about
twelve of thcrn performed, much after the fame manner as
tholb at Hapaee. But, in two, that were performed by wo-
men, a number of men came and formed a circle within
thcir's. And, in another, conlilting of twenty-four men,
there were a number of motions with the hands, that we
had not feen before, and were highly applauded. The
mufic was, alfo, once changed, in the courfe of the night ;
and in one of the dances, Fcenou appeared at the head of
fifty men who had performed at Hapaee, and he was well
dreffed with linen, a large piece of gauze, and fome little
pidlures hung round his neck. But it was evident, after
the diverlions were clofed, that we had put thefe poor
people, or rather that they had put themfelves, to much
inconvenience. For being drawn together on this vmin-
habited part of their ifland, numbers of them were obliged
to lie down and lleep under the bufhes, by the fide of a
tree, or of a canoe ; nay many either lay down in the
open air, which they are not fond of, or walked about all
the night.

The whole of this entertainment was condudled with far
better order, than could have been expe(5led in fo large an
affembly. Amongft fuch a multitude, there muft be a
number of ill-difpofed people ; and we, hourly, experienced
it. All our care and attention did not prevent their plun-
dering us, in every quarter ; and that, in the molt daring
and infolent manner. There was hardly any thing that they
did not attempt to fteal ; and yet, as the crowd was always
fo great, I would not allow the fentries to fire, left the inno-
cent fhould futfer for the guilty. They once, at noon day,

ventured

'^\ i^ ,

'i- 'i

\ .

p i

^^■^ow

Bi'l

i.J

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

299

«777-
lune.

ventured to aim at taking an anchor from off the Difco-
very's bows ; and they would certainly have fucceeded, if
the flook had not hooked one of the chain plates in lower-
ing down the fliip's fide, from which they could not difen-
gage it by hand ; and tackles were things they were unac-
quainted with. The only a6l of violence they were guilty
of, was the breaking the flioulder bone of one of our
goats, fo that flie died foon after. This lofs fell upon them-
felves, as flie was one of thofe that I intended to leave
upon the ifland ; but of this, the perfon who did it, was
ignorant.

Early in the morning of the i8th, an incident happened, wednef. 18.
that ftrongly marked one of their cuftoms. A man got out
of a canoe into the quarter gallery of the Refolution, and
ftole from thence a pewter bafon. He was difcovered, pur-
fued, and broiight along-fide the Ihip. On this occafion,
three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud la-
mentations over the prifoner, beating their breafts and faces
in a moll violent manner, with the infide of their fifts; and
all this was done without fliedding a tear. This mode of
exprefling grief is what occafions the mark which almoft
all this people bear on the face, over the cheek bones. The
repeated blows which they infli<ft upon this part, abrade the
ikin, and make even the blood flow out in a confiderable
quantity ; and when the wounds arc recent, they look as if
a hollow circle had been burnt in. On many occafions, .
they a(5lually cut this part of the face with an infirument ;
in the fame manner as the people of Otaheite cut their
heads.

This day, I befi:owed uxi Mareewagee fome prcfents, in
return for thole we had received from him the day before ;
and as the entertainments which he had then exhibited for

Q q 2 our

if:'':

^M\

fl l^^

^: »

300 AVOYAGETO

our amufement, called upon us to make fome exhibition in
pur way, I ordered the party of marines to go through their
excrcife on the ipot where his dances had been performed ;
and, in the evening, played off fome fireworks at the fame
place. Poulaho, with all the principal Chiefs, and a great
number of people, of all denominations, were prefent. The
platoon firing, which was executed tolerably well, fecmed
to give them pleafure ; but they were loll in allonifliment
w hen they beheld our water rockets. They paid but little
attention to the fife and drum, or French horns that played
during the intervals. The king fat behind every body,
hecaufe no one is allowed to fit behind him; and, that
his view might not be obftru(5ted, nobody fat immedi-
ately before him ; but a lane, as it were, was made by the
people from him, quite down to the fpace allotted for the
fireworks.

In expedlation of this evening fliew, the circle of natives
about our tent being pretty large, they engaged, the greateil
part of the afternoon, in boxing and wreftling ; the firft of
which cxercifes they call fan^aiooa, and the fecond foohoo.
When any of them choofes to wreftle, he gets up from one
fide of the ring, and croffes the ground in a fort of mea-
fured pace, clapping fmartly on the elbow joint of one arm,
which is bent, and produces a hollow found ; that is rec-
koned the challenge. If no perfon comes out from the op-
ix)fite fide to engage him, he returns, in the fame manner,
and fits down ; but fometimes Hands clapping in the midit
of the ground, to provoke fome one to come out. If an
opponent appear, they come together with marks of the
greateil good-nature, generally fmiling, and taking time to
adjull the piece of cloth which is fallened round the waift.
They then lay hold of each other by this girdle, with a

hand

1:1

1, i

4 1

<:■! i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

hand on each fide ; and he who fucceeds in drawing his
antagonift to him, immediately tries to Hft him upon his
breall, and throw liim upon his back ; and if he be able to
turn round with him two or three times, in that pofition,
before he throws him, his dexterity never fails of procuring
plaudits from the fpedlators. If they be more equally
matched, they clofe loon, and endeavour to throw each
other by entwining their legs, or lifting each other from
the ground ; in which ftruggles they ftiew a prodigious ex-
ertion of ftrength, every mufcle, as it were, being ready to
burft with Itraining. When one is thrown, he immediately
quits the field, but the vicSlor fits down for a few feconds,
then gets up, and goes to the fide he came from, who pro-
claim the vidlory aloud, in a fentence dehvered llowly, and
in a rnufical cadence. After fitting a fhort fpace, he rifes
again and challenges ; when fometimes feveral antagonifts
n ^^ their appearance ; but he has the privilege of choo-
li.i .hich of them he pleafes to wreltle with ; and has,
i.kc.vile, the preference of challenging again, if he fhould
throw his adverfary, until he himlelf be vanquiflied ; and
then the oppolite fide fing the fong of victory in favour of
their champion. It alfo often happens, that five or fix rife
from each fide, and challenge together ; in which cafe, it is
common to fee three or four couple engaged on the field at
once. But it is altonifhing to fee what temper they prefervt
in this exercife ; for we obferved no inflances of their leav-
ing the fpot, with the leaft difpleafure in their counte-
nances. When they find, that they are fo eqvially matched
as not to be likely to throw each other, they leave off by
mutual confent. And if the fall of one is not fair, or if it
does not appear very clearly who has had the advantage,
both fides fing the vidory, and then they engage again.

But

.^oi

<777.
'■::.ie.

■ V

302

•777-
June.

M '

tr^^

A VOYAGE TO

But no pei-fon, who has been vaiKiuilhed, can engage with
his conqueror a fccond time.

The boxers advance lule-ways, changing the ade at every
pace, with one ar ftretched fully out before, the other be-
hind ; and holdiiig a piece of cord in one hand, which they
wrap firmly about it, when they find an antagonilt, or elfe
have done H) before they enter. This, I imagine, they do,
to prevent a dillov. ation of the hand or fingers. Their blG\\ s
are diredled chiefly to the head ; but fometimes to the
fides ; and are dealt out with great adliivity. They fliift
fides, and box equally well with both hands. But one of
their favourite and mofl: dextrous blows, is, to turn round
on their heel, juft as they have Ihnck their antagonift, and
to give him another very fmart one with the other hand
backward.

The boxing matches feldom laft long ; and the parties
either leave off together, or one acknowledges his being
beat. But they never fing the fong of viiftory in thefe
cafes, unlefs one ftrikes his adverfary to the ground ; which
fhews, that, of the two, wreftling is their moil approved
diverlion. Not only boys engage, in both the exercifes,
but frequently little girls box very obllinately for a fliort
time. In all which cafes, it doth not appear, that they ever
confidcr it as the fmalleil difgrace to be van(piiflicd ; and
the perlon overcome fits dov/n, with as much indifference,
as if he had never entered the litis. Some of our people
ventincd to contend with them in both exercifes, but were
always worlleil ; except in a few inltances, where it appear-
ed, that the fear they were in of offending us, contributed
more to the vi<5lory, than the fuperiority of the j 'Ion they
engaged.

The cattle, which we had brought, and which were all

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

303

'^1

June.

on fliore, however carefully guarded, I Avas fenfible, run no
imall rifle, when I confidercd the thievilh difpolition of
many of the natives, and their dexterity in appropriating to
themfelves by Health, what they faw no profi)e<ft of obtain-
ing by fair means. For this reafon I thought it prudent to
declare my intention of leaving behind me fome of our
animals ; and even to make a diftribution of them previ-
ovilly to my departure.

With this view, in the evening of the 19th, I affembled Thurfday 19.
all the Chiefs l>efore our houfe, and m*y intended prefents
to them were marked out. To Poulaho, the king, I gave a
young Englifli bull and cow ; to Mareewagee, a Cape ram,
and two ewes ; and to Feenou, a horfe and a mare. As my
defign, to make fuch a diltribution, had been made known
the day before, moil of the people in the neighbourhood
were then prefent. I inftrudled Omai to tell them, that there
were no fuch animals within many months fail of their
illand ; that we had brought them, for their ufe, from that
immenfe diltance, at a valt trouble and expence ; that,
therefore, they mull be carefid not to kill any of them,
till they had multiplied to a numerous race ; and, laftly,
that they and their children ought to remember, that they
had received them from the men of Britane. He alfo ex-
plained to them their fevcral ufes, and what elfe was ne-
ceflary for them to know, or rather as far as he knew ;
for Omai was not very w(.Il vcned in inch things himfclf.
As I intended that the above ]n\lbnts fliould remain with
the other cattle, till wc were rercly 10 fail, I ilefired each of
the Chiefs to feud a man or r wo to look after th<nr refpe^^ivc
animals, along with my jxopl^', in order that thev might
be better acquainted with tiicm, and with the maniier
of treating them. The king and I'ecnou did fo ; but nei-
ther

■■'«

II.

304

•777-
June.

Friday zo.

A VOYAGE TO

thcr Mareewagee, nor any other perfon for him, took the
leail notice of the flieep afterward ; nor did old Toohou
attend at this meeting, though he was invited, and was in
the neighbourhood. I had meant to give him the goats,
'viz. a ram and two ewes ; which, as he was fo inditfsrent
about them, I added to the king's fliarc.

It foon appeared, that fome were diflatisfied with this
allotment of our animals; for, early next morning, one of
our kids, and two tvukey-cocks, w'ere milHng. I coiUd not
be fo limple as to fupix)fe, that this was merely an acci-
dental lofs ; and I was determined to have them again.
The firft Itep I took was to feize on three canoes that hap-
pened to be along-fide the fliips. 1 then went afliore, and,
having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and fome
other Chiefs, in the houfe that we occupied, 1 immediately
put a guard over them, and gave them to underftand, that
they muft remain under reftraint, till not only the kid and
the turkeys, but the other things that had been Itolen from
us, at different times, were reftored. They concealed, as well
as they could, their feelings, on finding themfelves prifoners ;
and, having alTured me, that every thing fhould be reftored,
as I defired, fat down to drink their Aava^ feemingly much at
their eafe. It w^as not long before an axe, and an iron wedge,
were brought to me. In the mean time, fome armed natives
began to gather behind the houfe; but, on a part of our guard
marching againft them, they difpcrfed ; and I advifed the
Chiefs to give orders, that no more (hould appear. Such or-
ders were accordingly given by them, and they were obey-
ed. On afking them to go aboard with me to dinnc , they
readily confented. But fome having afterward objedtc 1 to
the king's going, he inftantly rofe up, and declared he
would be the firft man. Accordingly we came on board.

1 kept

THE PACIFrc OCEAN.

1 kept them there till near four o'clock, when I condudled
them afhore ; and, loon after, the kid, and one of the
turkey-cocks, were brought back. The other, they faid,
fliould be reftored the next morning. I believed this would
happen, and releafed both them and the canoes.

After the Chiefs had left i:s, I walked out with Omai,
to obferve how the people about us fared ; for this was the
time of their meJs. I found that, in general, they were
at Ihort commons. Nor is this to be wondered at, fmce
moft of the yams, and oilier provilions which they brought
with them, were fold to us ; and they never thought of re-
turning to their own habitations, while they could find
any fort of fubfiftence in our neighbourhood. Our ftation
was upon an uncultivated point of land ; fo that there
were none of the illanders, who, properly, refided within
half a mile of us. But, even at this diftance, the multitude
of ftrangers being fo great, one might have expedled, that
every houfe would have been much crowded. It was quite
otherwife. The families refiding there were as much left
to themfelves, as if there had not been a fupernumerary
vifiter near them. All the ftrangers lived in little tempo-
rary flieds, or under trees and bullies ; and the cocoa-trees
were ftripped of their branches, to eredt habitations for the
Chiefs.

In this walk we met with about half a dozen women, in
one place, at fupper. Two of the company, I obferved,
being fed by the others, on our afking the realbn, they
faid taboo mattee. On farther inquiry we found, that one
of them had, two months before, waflied the dead corpfc
of a Chief; and that, on this account, flie was not to
handle any food for live months. The other had performed
the fame office to the corpfe of another perfon of inferior

Vol. I. 11 r rank,

30s

•777-
June.

3o6

1777-
June.

Saturdays],

|.,.'

i'i.: . f.

m f

1 ■ :'•

;ii

.'i'^.'.l ■

A VOYAGE TO

rank, and was now iindtr the fame reftri<Slion ; but riot for
fo long a time. At another place, hard by, we faw another
woman fed ; and we learnt, that Ihe had affiftcd in wafliing
the corpfe of the above-mentioned Chief. ,

Early the next morning, the king came on board, to in-
vite me to an entertainment, which he propofed to give the
fame day. He had already been luider the barber's hands ;
his head being all befmeared with red pigment, in order
to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark brown
colour. After break fart, I attended him to the fliore ; and
we found his people very bufy, in two pi i^es, in the front
of our area, fixing, in an upright and fquare pofition,
thus [ ° ° ]» four very long ports, near two feet from each
other. The fpace between the ports was afterward filled
up with yams ; and as they went on filling it, they faftened
pieces of fticks acrofs, from port to port, at the dirtance of
about every four feet ; to prevent the jxjfts from feparating,
by the weight of the inclofed yams, and alfo to get up by.
When the yams had reached the top of the firft ports, they
fartened others to them, and fo continued till each pile was
the height of thirty feet, or upward. On the top of one,
they placed two baked hogs ; and on the top of the other,
a living one ; and another they tied by the legs, half-way
up. It was matter of curiofity to obfcrve, with what facility
and difpatch thefe two piles were raifed. Had our fcamen
been ordered to execute fuch a work, they would have
fworn that it could not be performed without carpenters ;
and the cari^enters would have called to their aid a dozen
dirtercnt forts of tools, and have expended, at leart, a hun-
dred weight of nails ; and, after all, it would have employ-
ed them as many days, as it did thefe people hours. But
feamen, like mort other amphibious animals, are always

10 the

V '

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

the moft helplefs on land. After they had completed thefe
two piles, they made leveral other heaps of yams and bread-
fruit on each fide of the area ; to which were added a turtle,
and a large quantity of excellent fifh. All this, with a piece
of cloth, a mat, and fomc red feathers, was the king's pre-
lent to me ; and he feemed to pique himfelf on exceeding,
as he really did, Feenou's liberality, which I experienced
at H apace.

About one o'clock they began the maif or dances ; the firft
of which was almoft a copy of the firft that was exhibited at
Mareewagec's entertainment. The fecond was conducted
by Captain Furneaux's Toobou, who, as we mentioned, had
alio danced there ; and in this, four or five women were in-
troduced, who went through the feveral parts with as much
exadlnefs as the men. Toward the end, the performers di-
vided to leave room for two champions, who exercifed their
clubs, as defcribed on a former occafion. And, in the third
dance, which was the laft now prefented, two more men,
with their clubs, difplayed their dexterity. The dances
were fucceeded by wreftling and boxing ; and one man en-
tered the lifts with a fort of club, made from the ftem of a
cocoa-leaf, which is firm and heavy ; but covUd find no an-
tagonift to engage him at fo rough a fport. At night we
had the bomai repeated ; in which Poulaho himfelf danced,
dreffed in Englilh manufadlure. But neither thcfe, nor the
dances in the day-time, were fo confulerable, nor carried
on with fo much fpirit, as Feenou's, or Mareewagee's ; and,
therefore, there is lefs occafion to be more particular in our
(lefcription of them.

In order to be prefent the whole time, I dined afiiore.
The king fat down with us ; but he neither eat nor drank.
I found that this was owing to the prefencc of a female,

R r 2 whom,

307

"777-
June.

3o8

^777'
June.

A VOYAGE TO

whom, at his defire, I had admitted to the dining party ;
and who, as we afterward underftood, had fuperior rank to
himfelf. As foon as this great perfonage had dined, flie
ftepped up to the king, who put his hands to her feet ; and
then flie retired. He immediately dipped his fingers into a
glafs of wine, and then received the obeifancc of all her
followers. This was the fmgle inftance we ever obfervcd
of his paying this mark of reverence to any perfon. At
the king's defire, I ordered fome fireworks to be played off
in the evening ; but, unfortunately, being damaged, this
exhibition did not anfwer expc(5tation.

ft- <

\h}'

CHAP.

it ^ m

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

309

.~j

CHAP. VIII.

Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives. — A fijhing
Party. — A Vifit to Poulaho. — A Fiatooka defer ibed. — Ob'
fervations on the Country Entertainment at Poulabo's Houfe.
— His Mourning Ceremony. — Of the Kava Plants, and the
Manner of preparing the Liquor. — Account of Onevvy a
little I/land, — One of the Natives ivounded by a Sentinel. —
Meffrs. King and Anderfon vijit the King's Brother. — their
Entertainment. — Another Mourning Ceremony. — Manner
of piaffing the Night. — Remarks on the Country they pajfed
through. — Preparations made for failing. — An Eclipfe of
the Sun, imperfeBly obferved. — Mr. Anderfon's Account of
the IJlandf and its ProduSiions,

^777'
June.

AS no more entertainments were to be expe(5ted, on
cither fide, and tlic curiofity of the populace was,
by this time, pretty well fatisfied ; on the day after Poula- Sunday 2*.
ho's haiva, moll of them left us. We ftill, however, had
thieves about us ; and, encouraged by the negligence of
our own people, we had continued inftances of their de-
predations.

Some of the officers, belonging to both fhips, who had
made an excurfion into the interi ir parts of the illand,
without my leave, and, indeed, A\ithout my knowledge,
returned this evening, after an abfence of two days. They
had taken witl.' them their mufquets, with the necefl'ary
ammunition, and feveral fmall articles of the favourite

commodities \

A VOYAGE TO

June.

Vii

commocUtics ; all which the natives had the dexterity to
Ileal from them, in the coiirle of their expedition. This
afiair was lilcely to be attended with inconvenient confe-
quences. For, our plundered travellers, ujwn their return,
without < onfuUing me, employed Omai to complain to
the kin^ of the treatment they had met with. He, not
knowing what ftep I fhould take, and, from what had
already hapjiened, fearing lert I might lay him again
Monday 2j. under reltraint, went off early the next morning. His
example was followed by Feenou ; lb that we had not a
Chief, of any authority, remaining in our neighbourhood.
I was very much difpleafed at this, and reprimanded Omai
for having prefumed to meddle. This reprimand put him
upon his mettle to bring his friend Feenou back ; and he
fucceeded in the negociation ; having this powerful argu-
ment to urge, that he might depend upon my ufing no
violent meafures to oblige the natives to reftore what had
been taken from the gentlemen. Feenou, trvifting to this
declaration, returned toward the evening ; and, encouraged
by his reception, Poulaho favoured us with his company
the day after.

Both thefe Chiefs, ujwn this occafion, very juftly ob-
fervcd to me, that, if any of my people, at any time, wanted
to go into the country', they ought to be acquainted with
it ; in which cafe they would fend proper people along with
them ; and then they would be anfwerablc for their fafcty.
And I am convinced, from experience, that, by taking this
very reafonable precaution, a man and his property may be
as fafe among thefe iflanders, as in other parts of the more
civilized world. Though I gave myfelf no trouble about
the recovery of the things ftolcn upon this occafion, molt
of them, through Fcenou's interpolition, were recovered ;

except

Tuefday 24.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

311

Jun«.

except one mulViuet, and a few other articles of inferior
value. By this time alfo, we had recovered the tvirkey-
cock, and moft of the tools, and other matters, that had
been ftolen from our workmen.

On the 2Sth, two boats, which I had fent to look for a wednef. 25.
channel, by which we might, moft commodioully, get to
fea, returne<l. The Mafters, who commanded them, re-
ported, that the channel to the North, by which we came
in, was highly dangerous, being full of coral rocks from
one fide to the other ; but that, to the Eaftward, there was
a very good channel; which, however, ^' as very much
contradled, in one place, by the fmall illands ; lb that a
leading wind wovild be requifite to get through it ; th t is,
a Wefterly wind, which, we had found, did not oftei blow
here. We had now recruited the fhips with wood and
water; we had finirtied the repairs of our fails; and bail,
little more to expedl from the inhabit uits, of the , ■ 'vlucc
of their illand. However, as an eclipfe of the fun was to
happen upon the 5th of the next month, I refolved to de-
fer failing till that time had elapfed, in order to have a
chance of obferving it.

Having, therefore, fome days of leifure before me, a
party of us, accompanied by Poulaho, fet out, early next
morning, in a boat, for Mooa, the village where he and the Thurfday 26.
other great men ufually relide. As we rowed up the inlet,
we met with fourteen canoes fifhing in company ; in one of
which was Poidaho's fon. In each canoe was a triangulai'
net, extended between two poles ; at tlx !o- ;^er end of which
was a cod to receive and fecurc the filh. They had already
caught fome fine mullets ; and they put about a dozen into
our boat. 1 defired to fee their method of filhing ; which
they readily complied with. A fiioal of fiih was fuppofed

312

^7?7-
June.

.^r V

p'.i ?

IT-

A VOYAGE TO

to be upon one of the banks, which they inftantly inclofed
in a long net hke a feine, or fet-net. This the fiflicrs, one
getting into the water out of each boat, furrouniled with
the triangular nets in their hands ; with which they fcooped
the fifli out of the feine, or caught them as they ar«-cmpted
to leap over it. They Ihewed us the whole proceis of this
operation (which feemed to be a fure one), by throwing
in fome of the fifli they had already caught ; for, at this
time, there happened to be none uix)n the ba"k that was
inclofed.

Leaving the prince and his fifliing party, we proceeded
to the bottom of the bay, and landed where we had done
before, on our fruitlefs errand to fee Mareewagee. As loon
as we got on fhore, the king defired Omai to tell me, that
I need be under no apprehenfions about the boat, or any
thing in her, for not a fingle article would be touched by
any one ; and we afterward found this to be the cafe. We
were immediately condudled to one of Poulaho's houfcs not
far off, and near the public one, or malaee^ in which we had
been, when we firft vifited Mooa. This, though pretty
large, feemed to be his private habitation, and was fituated
within a plantation. The king took his feat at one end of
the houfe, and the people, who came to vifit him, fat down,
as they arrived, in a femicircle at the other end. The firlt
thing done, was to prepare a bowl of kava^ and to order
fome yams to be baked for us. While thefe were getting
ready, fome of us, accompanied by a few of the king's at-
tendants, and Omai as our interpreter, v/alked out to take a
view of -^ficitooka^ or burying-placc, which ./e had obfcrvcd
to be almoft clofe by the houfe, and was much more cxten-
live, and fccmingly of more confeciuence, than any we had
feen at the other illands. We were told, that it belonged to

the

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

the king. It conliftcd of three pretty large hoiiles, fituated
upon a rifing ground, or rather juft by the brink of it, with
a fmall one, at fome diltance, all ranged longitudinally. The
middle hoiife of the three firft, was by much the largeil:,
and i)laced in a fquare, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight,
raifed about three feet. The other houfes were placed on
little mounts, raifed artificially to the fame height. The
floors of thefe houfes, as alfo the tops of the mounts round
them, were covered with loofe, fine pebbles, and the whole
was inclofed by large flat ftones ••'•■ of hard coral rock, pro-
jy.-ly hewn, placed on their edges; one of which Hones mea-
fured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one
in thicknefs. One of the houfes, contrary to what we had
f;;en before, was open on one fide ; and within it were two
r\i(le, wooden bufl:s of men ; one near the entrance, and the
other farther in. On inquiring of the natives, who had
followed us to the ground, l)ut durft not enter here. What
thefe images were intended for? they made us as fenfiblc
as we could wilh, that they were merely memorials of Ibmc
Chiefs who had been buried there, and not the reprefenta-
tions of any deity. Such monuments, it fliovdd feem, are
feldom raifed ; for thefe had, probably, been eredled fe-
veral ages ago. We were told, that the dead had been bu-
ried in each of thefe houfes ; but no marks of this ap-
peared. In one of them, was the carved head of an Ota-
heite canoe, which had been driven afliore on their coaft,
and deix)fited here. At the foot of the rifing grovmd, was
a large area, or grafs-plot, with different trees planted about
it ; amonglt which were feveral of thole called etoa^ very
large. Thefe, as they refemble the cyprefs, had a fine ef-

* The burying-places of the Chiefs at the Caroline Iflands, are alfo inclofeJ in this
manner. See Ltttia t lifimUs U Cuncup!, Tcm. xv. p. 309.

Vol. I. S f fed;

313

>777-
June.

A VOYAGE TO

1777.

June.

t|:

'ml

fcvH: in fuch a place. There was, alfo, a row of low palms
near one of the houfes, and behind it a ditch, in which
lay a great number of old bafkets. Mr. Webber's draw-
ing of this fiatooka^ will fupply the defeds of my de-
fcription.

After dinner, or rather after we had refreflied oiirfelves
with fomc provifions which we had brought with us from
our Ihip, we made an excurfion into the country, taking a
pretty large circuit, attended by one of the king's minillers.
Our train was not great, as he would not fuffcr the rabble
to follow us. He alfo obliged all thofc whom we met upon
our progrefs, to fit down, till wc had pafTed ; which is a
mark of refpe(5t due only to their Sovereigns. We found
by far the grcatell part of the country cultivated, and
planted with various forts of productions ; and moft of
thefe plantations were fenced round. Some fpots, where
plantations had been formerly, now pioduced nothing, ly-
ing fallow ; and there were places that had never been
touched, but lay in a ftatc of nature ; and, yet, even thefe
were ufeful, in affording them timber, as they were gene-
rally covered with trees. Wc met with feveral large, -n in-
habited houfes, which, we were told, belonged to the ki ig.
There were many pul)lic and well-beaten roads, and abun-
dance of foot-paths leading to every part of the illand.
The roads being good, and the country level, travelling
was very eafy. It is remarkable, that when we were on
the moil elevated parts, at leall a hundred feet above the
level of the fea, we often met with the fame coral rock,
which is found at the ihore, projcdting above the fm'face,
and perforated and cut into all thofc inccpialities which are
ufuully fcen in rocks that lie within the wafli of the tide.
And yet thefe very fpots, with hardly any foil upon them,

were

h .

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

.)'j

>777-
Juiio.

were covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were con-
<lu6lc(l to fevcral little pools, and to Ibme fprings of water ;
but, in general, they were either ftinking or brackifli,
though recommended to us by the natives as excellent.
The former were, moftly, inland, and the latter near the
fhore of the bay, and below high-water mark ; fo that
tolerable water could be taken up from them, only when
the tide was out.

When we returned from our walk, which was not till
the dufk of the evening, our fupper was ready. It coniiiled
of a baked hog, fonie fifli, and yams, all excellently well
cooked, after the method of thefe iilands. As there was
nothing to amufe us after fupper, we followed the cuftom
of the country, and lay down to fleep, our beds being mats
fpread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king,
who had made himfelf very happy with fome wine and
brandy which we had brought, flept in the fame houfe, as
well as feveral others of the natives. Long before day-
break, he and they all rofe, and lat converling by moon-
light. The converfatit)n, as might well be gueifed, tvirncd
wholly upon vis ; the king entertaining his company with
an account of what he had feen, or remarked. As foon as it
was day, they difperfed, fome one way, and fome another ; Friday 27
but it was not long before they all returned, and, with
them, feveral more of then' countrymen.

They now began to prepare a bowl of kava ; and, leav-
ing them fo employed, I went to pay a vifit to Toobou, Cap-
tain Fiuneaux's friend, who had a houfe hard by, which,
for ilze and ncatnefs, was exceeded by few in the place. As
I had left the others, fo I found here a company, preparing
a morning draught. This Chief made a prefent to me of
a living hog, a baked one, a quantity of yams, and a large

S f 2 piece

3i6

A VOYAGE TO

•777-
June.

li + !!

piece of cloth. When I returned to the king, I found
him, and his circle of attendants, drinking the fecond
bowi of ^ava. That being emptied, he told Omai, that
he was going prefently to perform a mourning ceremony,
called Too?^, on account of a Ion who had been dead fome
time ; and he defired us to accompany him. We were
glad of the opportunity, cxpeding to fee fome what new
or curious.

The firrt thing the Chief difl, was to ftep out of the houfe,
attended by two old women, and put on a new fuit of
clothes, or rather a new piece of cloth, and, over it, an old
ragged mat, that might have fcrvcd his great grandfather,
on fome fuch occaiion. I lis fcrvants, or thofe who attended
him, were all drcifed in the fame manner, excepting that
none of their mats could vie, in antiquity, with that of their
martcr. Thus equipped, we marched off, preceded by about
eight or ten perfons, all in the above habits of ceremony,
each of them, befides, having a fmall green bough about
his neck. Poulaho held his bough in his hand, till we drew
near the place of rendezvous, when he alio put it about
his neck. We now entered a fniall inclolure, in which was
a neat houfe, and we found one man fitting before it. As
the company entered, they ]nTlled off the green branches
from roimd their necks, and threw them away. The king
having firft featcd himfelf, the others fat down before him,
in the ufual manner. The circle increafed, by otncrs drop-
ping in, to tlie number of a hundred or upward, moflly
old men, all drcired as above defcril)ed. The company be-
ing completely aifemblcd, a large root of ^at'a, brought ])y
one of the king's fervants, was produced, and a bowl which
contained four or five gallons. Several perfons now began
to chew the root, and this bowl was made brimfuU of

licpior.

1 ■ •!'.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

317

liquor. While it was preparing, others were employed in
making drinking cups of plantain leaves. The firft cup
that was filled, was prefented to the king, and he ordered
it to be given to another perfon. The fecond was alfo
brought to him, which he drank, and the third was offered
to me. Afterward, as each cup was filled, the man who
filled it, afked, who was to have it ? Another then named
the perfon ; and to him it was carried. As the bowl grew
low, the man who diilributed the liquor feemed rather at a
lofs to whom cups of it fliould be next fent, and frequently
confulted tliofe who fat near him. This mode of diilribu-
tion continued, while any liquor remained ; and though
not half the company had a fliare, yet no one feemed dif-
fatisfied. About half a dozen cups ferved for all ; and each,
as it was emptied, was thrown down upon the ground,
where the fervants picked it up, and carried it to be filled
again. During the whole time, the Chief and his circle
fat, as was ufually the cafe, with a great deal of gravity,
hardly fpeaking a word to each other.

We had long waited in expedlation, each moment, of
feeing the mourning ceremony begin ; when, foon after
the kava was drank out, to our great furprize and difap-
pointmcnt, they all rofe up and difperfed ; and Poulaho
told us, he was now ready to attend us to the fhips. If
this was a mourning ceremony, it was a ftrange one. Per-
haps, it was the fecond, third, or fourth mourning ; or,
which was not very uncommon, Omai might have mif-
undeiitood what Poulaho laid to him. I'-r, excepting
the change of (h-efs, and the putting the green bough
rounil their necks, nothing feemed to have paifcd at this
meeting, but what vc faw thcni pra^^ifc, loo frequently,
every day.

« Wc

'777-
June.

*■:*;

^1!^^

318

'777'
JuiiP.

A VOYAGE TO

« vx We liad feen the drinking of l-ava fometimcs, at the
other iilands ; but, by no menns fo frequently as here,
where it fcems to be the only forenoon employment of tlio
principal people. The ^civa is a fpecics of pepper, which
they cultivate for this purpofe, and efteem it a valuable ar-
ticle, taking great care to defend the young plants from
any injury ; and it is commonly planted abinu their boufes.
It feldom grow; to more than a mnn's heigiu; though 1
have iecn fome plants almoft double that. It Vjranchcs con-
iideral'lv, with large hcart-lhaped leave , and jointeil ftalks.
The rooi- i > the orJv part tluif is ufed at the Friendly ifla.uls,
which, btiiig Ut •;- up^ is given to tl'.e fervants that attend,
who, breaking it i,t piece, icrar.. the dirt otf with a fliell,
or bit of Hick : ar.d then eacli 'oegms and chews his portion,
which he fpits into a p>cx of plantain leaf. The perfon,
who i"5 to pi' pare rhe li(pior, collects all thel'e mouthfuls,
and ]r.its then\ into i large wooden dii1i or bowl, adding as
much water as will make it of a pro])er ftrength. h is,
then, well mi.\ed up with the hands ; and fome ioofe Ihiir,
«:f which n"iat- are made, is thrown upon the i'urface,
\\ ni<. h intercepts tiie fibrous part, and is wrung hard, to
get as much licjuid out from it, as is poiTible. The manjier
of diihibuting it need not be repeated. The quantity which
is jnit into eac h cup, is commonly about a cpiarter of a pint.
The immediate efl'cifl of tliis bevefage is not perceptible on
thcfe jKopxC, who ufe it lb frequently ; but on fome a
ours, who ventured to tr\ it, though fo naftily prepared, it
had the fame power as Ipirits have, in intoxicating them ;
or, rather, it produced that kind of <hipefad\ion, which is
the confequence of ufu^g o);ium, or other fubftances of that

The following account ^i kava, to the end of this paragrnili, is infcrtcd from Mr.
And. ! I jh's journal.

kill.].

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

3^9

kind. It fhoiUd be obferved, at the fame time, that though
thefe iflanders have this Hqiior ahvays frefh prepared, and I
have feen them drink it feven times before noon, it is, ne-
verthelefs, fo difagreeable, or, at leaft, feems fo, that the
greateft part of them cannot fvvallow it without making wry
faces, and fhuddcring afterward."

As foon as this mourning ceremony was over, we left
Mooa, and fet out to return to the fliips. While we rowed
dowai the lagoon or inlet, we met with two canoes coming
in from fifliing. Poulaho ordered them to be called along-
fide our boat, and took from them every fifli and fliell they
had got. lie, afterward, ilopped two other canoes, and
fearched them, but they had nothing. Why this was done,
I cannot fay ; for we had plenty of provifions in the boat.
Some of this lifli 1^ gave to me; and his f^-rvants fold
the reft on board the fliip. As we proceeded down the in-
let, we overtook a large failing canoe. Every perfon on
board her, that was upon his legs when we came up, fat
down till we had paffed ; even the man who fteered,
though he could not manage the helm, except in a ftand-
ing polture.

Poulaho, and others, having informed me, that there
was fome excellent water on Onevy, a little illand, which
lies about a leagiie oft' the mouth of the inlet, and oil
the North fide of the Eaftern channel, we landed there,
in order to tafte it. But I fovmd it to be as brackifti as
nioft that we had met with. This ifland is quite in a
natural ftate, being only frequented as a fiftiing place,
and has nearly the fame produdtions as Palmerfton's
Iftand, with fome etoa trees. After leaving Onevy, where
we (lined, in our way to the Ihip, we took a view of a cu-
rious coral rock, which fcems to have been thrown upon

I the

June.

320

A VOYAGE TO

1777.

June

SatiirJav

Iff . , ^1;
ii

the reef where it Hands. It is elevated about ten or twch'c
feet above the lurface of the fea that furrounds it. The
bafe it rclls upon, is not above one-third of the circumfe-
rence of its j)roje*n:ing fummit, which I judged to be about
one hundred feet, and is covered with etoa and pandanws
trees.

When we got on board the fliip, I found that every thing
had been quiet during my ablence, not a theft having been
committed ; of which Feenou, and Futtafaihe, the king's
brother, who had luidertaken the management of his
countrymen, boafl:ed not a Httle. This fliews what power
the Chiefs have, when they have the will to execute it ;
which we were feldom to expc(ft, fince, whatever was
ftolen from us, generally, if not always, was conveyed to
tlieni.

The good condutfl of the natives was of fliort duration ;
iS- for, the next day, lix or eight of them anUiilted fome of our
jieople, who were fawing planks. They were fired upon
by the fentry ; and one was fuppofcd to be wounded, and
three others taken. Thele I kept (onfined till night ; and
did not (lifnnls them without punifliment. After this, they
behaved with a little more circumr{)edl:ion, and gave us
much Icl's trouble. This change of behaviour, was cer-
tainlv occafioned by the man being wounded ; for, before,
they had only been told of the eft'e(Sl of fire-arms, but now
they had felt it. The repeated inlolence of the natives, had
in(hiced me to order the muftjuets of the fentries to be
loaded with fmall Hiot, and to authorize them to fire on par-
fit uliir fKCafions. I took it for granted, tliercfore, that this
man had only been wounded witli fmall ihor. But Mr.
King and Mr. Andcrfon, in an excurllon into the (ountry,
rnet with him, and found indubitable niarks of liis having

been

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

321

»777-
June.

been wounded, hut not dangeroufly, with a mufquet ball.
I never could find out how this mufqviet happened to be
charged with ball .; and there were people enough ready to
fvvear, that its contents were only fmall Ihot.

Mr. Anderfon's account of the excurfion, juft mentioned,
will fill vip an interval of two days, during which nothing
of note happened, at the fliips : " Mr. King and 1 went, on
the 30th, along with Futtafaihc as vifiters to his houfc, Monday 30.
which is at Mooa, very near that of his brother Poulaho.
A fliort time after we arrived, a pretty large hog was killed ;
which is done by repeated rtrok.es on the head. The hair
was then fcraped off, very dextroully, with the Iharp edge
of pieces of fplit bamboo ; taking the entrails out at a large
oval hole cut in the belly, by the fame finiplc inrtrument.
Before this, they had prepared an oven ; which is a large
hole dug in the earth, filled at the bottom with ftones, about
the fize of the fift, over which a fire is made till they are
red hot. They took Ibme of ♦^hele ftones, wrapt up in leaves
of the bread-fruit tree, and filled the hog's belly, ftnfling
ill a quantity of leaves, to preven*- their falling out, nd
putting a plug of the fame kind in the a?ius. The carcalc
was then placed on fome fticks laid acrofs the ftones, in a
ftanding pofture, and covered with a great quantity of plan-
tain leaves. After which, they dug up the earth, all round ;
and having thus eifedlually doled the oven, the operation
of baking required no farther interferen c.

In the mean time wg walked about the country, but met
with nothing remarkable, except a fJatooka of one houfe,
ftanding on an artificial mount, at leaft thirty feet high. A
little on one fide of it, was a pretty large open area; '^d,
not far oif, was a good deal of uncvdtivatcd ground ; whitxi,
on in(piiring why it lay wafte, our guides leemed to fay,

Vol. I. T t belonged

Trai

-■■II

■r.|

322

A VOYAGE TO

1777.

June.

I'M, [1 '

If' ■

(./■■ 'i

belonged to xhcjiatooka (wliich was Poulaho's), and was not,
by any means, to be touched. Tlicre was alio, at no great
tlillantc, anunibcr of <?/(?<^ I , uhidi dung vail num-
bers of the large teriiui^ bats, making a diiagreeablc noife.
We could not kill any, at this time, for want of mufquets ;
but fomc, that were got at Annamooka, meafured near
three feet, when the wings were extended. On oiu' return-
ing to Futtafaihe's houfe, he ordered the hot; ^'-nt had been
drelfed, to be produced, with feveral b:iikets of baked ^ ams,
and Ibme cocoa -nuts. But we found, that, inllead of his
entertaining 'ts, we were to entertain him ; the property of
the feaft bcii ,; entirely transferred to us, as his guelts, and
we were to difj[)ofe of it as we ^/leafed. The fame ixirfon.
who cleaned the hog in the morning, now cut it up (but
not before we defired him), in a very dextrous manner,
with a knife of fi)lit bamboo ; dividing the feveral parts, and
hitting the Joints, ^vlth a quicknefs and Ikill that furprized
us very much. The whole was fet tlovvn before us, though
at lealt fifty poimds weight, until we took a fmall piece
away, and defired, that they would fliare the reil amongft
the people fitting round. But it was not without a great
many fcruples they did that at lafi: ; and then they alked,
what particidar perlbns they fl\ould give it to. However,
they were very well pleafed, when they foiuid, that it was
not contrary to any cuftom of ours ; lome carrying off the
portion they had received, and others eating it upon the
fpot. It was with great diificulty, that we co\dd prevail
upon Futtafaihc himfclf to eat a fmall bit.

After dinner, we went witl\ him, and five or fix people,
his attendants, toward the i^lace where Poidaho's mourning
cereraony was tranfacled, the laff time we were at Mooa ;
but we did not enter tlie inclofure. J very perfon who went

with

■AA

THE I^ACIFIC OCEAN.

with lis, had the mat tied ov er his cloth, and lome leaves
about the neck, as had been done on the former occafion ;
and when we arrived at a large open boat-houfc, where a
few people were, they threw away their leaves, fat down
before it, and gave their cheeks a few gentle Itrokes with
the fiil ; after which they continued fitting, for pbout ten
minutes, with a very grave appearance, and then difperfed,
without having fpoken a fingle word. This explained
what Poulaho had mentioned about T'oo^e ; though, from
the operation only lafting a few feconds, he had not been
obferved to i)erform it. And this feems to be only a con-
tinuation of the mourning ceremony, by way of condo-
lence. For, upon inquiring, on whofe account it was now
I>erformed ; we were told, that it was for a Chief who had
died at Vavaoo, fome time ago ; that they had pradlifed
it ever fince, and Ihould continue to do fo, for a conuder-
able time longer.

In the evening, we had a pig, drcffed as the hog, with
yams and cocoa-nuts, brought for fupper ; and Futtafaihe
finding, -that we did not like the fcruples they had made
before, to accept of any part of the entertainment, afked
us immediately to fliare it, and give it to whom we pleafed.
When fupper was over, abundance of cloth was brought
for us to lleep in ; bui we were a good deal difturbed, by
a fiiigular inftance of luxury, in which their principal men
indulge themfelves ; that of being beat while they are
alleep. Two women l^vt by Fvittafaihe, and performed this
oixration, w hich is called too^e tooge, by beating brifkly on
his body and legs, with both fills, as on a drum, till he fell
afleep, and continuing it the whole night, with fr>vne fliort
intervals. When once the perfon is afleepi they abate a
little in the ftrength and quicknefs of the beating ; but re-

T t 2 fume

V-i

'cy

"777.
June.

%':ii':

UiK-

1777.

June.

Tuclday i,

A VOYAGE TO

fume it, if they obfcrvc any appearance of his awaking.
hi the morning, we found that Futtafaihc's women relieved
each other, and went to lleep by turns, hi any other coim-
trv, it would be fuppofed, that fuch a praiftice woidd pat
an end to all rell ; hut here it certainly ad\s as an opiate ;
and is a llrong proof of what habit may effedt. The noife
of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us
awake ; for the people, who palfcd the night in the houfe,
not only converfed amongll each other frequently, as in
the day ; but all got vip before it was light, and made a
hearty meal on filh and yams, which were brought to them
by a perfon, who feemcd to know very well the appointetl
time for this not^urnal refreflimcnt.

Next morning we let out with Futtafaihe, and walked
down the Eatl fide of the bay, to the point. The country,
all along this iide, is well cultivated ; but, in general, not
fo much indoi'ed as at Mooa ; and amongll many other
jilantain fields that we i)afled, there was one at leart a mile
long, which was in excellent order, every tree growing
with great vigour. \Vc found, that, in traveUing, Futta-
faihe exercifed a power, though by no means wantonly,
which i>()inted out the great authority of fuch principal
men ; or is, perhaps, only annexed to thofe of the royal
family. For he fent to one place for hfli ; to another for
yams ; and fo on, at other jilaces ; and all his orders were
obeyed with the greatelt rcadinefs, as if he hud been abfolutc
mailer of the people's property. On coming to the point, the
natives mentioned fomething of one, who, they faid, had
been fired at by fome of our peoi)le ; and, upon our wilhing
to fee him, they condu<fled us to a houfe,- where we found
a man, who had been Ihot through the flioulder, but not
dangeroully ; as the ball had entered a little above the inner

part

I-

^.)'

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

3*5

•777-
July.

part of the collar-bone, and paflcd out o])liqviely backward.
We were furc, from the (late of the wound, that he was
the pcrfon who had been fired at by one of the fcntinels,
three days before ; though pofitive orders had been given,
that none of them Ihould load their pieces with any thing
but Imall fliot. Wc gave fomc dircdlions to his friends
how to manage the wound, to which no application had
been made ; and they fcemcd pleafed, when wc told them
it would get well in a certain time. Bvit, on our going
away, they alked us to fend the wounded man fome yams,
and other things fwr food ; and in fuch a manner, that we
could not help thinking they confidcred it to be our duty
to fupport him, till he Ihoidd get well.

In the evening we crolVcil the bay to our ftation, in a
canoe, which Futtafaihe had exercifed his prerogative in
procuring, by calling to the firll that palfed by. He had
alfo got a large hog at this place ; and brought a fervant
from his houfe with a bundle of cloth, which he wanted
us to take with us, as a prefcnt from him. But the boat
being fmall, we objedlcd ; and he ordered it to be brought
over to us the next day."

I had prolonged my Hay at this ifland, on account of the
approaching eclipfe ; but, on the 2d of July, on looking Wednef. z.
at the micrometer belonging to the board of longitude, I
found fome of the rack work broken, and the inllrument
ufclels till repaired ; which there was not time to do be-
fore it was intended to be ufed. Preparing now for our
departure, I got on board, this day, all the cattle, poultry,
and other animals, except fuch as were deftined to remain.
I had defigned to leave a turkey-cock and hen ; but having
now only two of each undifpofed of, one of the hens,
through the ignorance of one of my people, was Itranglcd,

und

July.

3^6 AVOYAGETO

and died upon the fpot. I had brought three turkey-hens
to thefe iilands. One was killed, as above mentioned ; and
the other, by an ufelefs dog belonging to one of the officers.
Thefe two ace idents put it out of my power to leave a pair
here; and, at the fame time, to carry the breed to Ota-
heite, for which illand they were originally intended. I
was forry, afterward, that I did not give the preference to
Tongataboo, as the prefent would have been of more value
there than at Otaheite ; for the natives of the former iiland,
I am perfuaded, would have taken more pains to multiply
the breed.
Thurfday j. The ncxt day we took up our anchor, and moved the
Ihips behind Pangimodoo, that we might be ready to take
the advantage of the firft favourable wind, to get through
the narrows. The king, who was one of our company,
this day, at dinner, I obferved, took particular notice of the
plates. This occalioned me to make him an offer of one,
either of pewter, or of earthen ware. He chofe the firft;
and then began to tell us the feveral ufes to which he in-
tended to apply it. Two of them are lb extraordinary, that
I cannot omit mentioning them. He faid, that, whenever
he fhould have occafion to vifit any of the other iilands, he
would leave this plate behind him at Tongatalx)o, as a fort
of reprefentative, in his abfence, that the people might pay
it the fame obeifance they do to himfelf in perfon. He
was afked, what had been ufually employed for this pur-
pofe, before he got this plate ; and we had the fatisfacflion
of learning from him, that this fingular honour had hither-
to been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he waflied
his hands. The other extraordinary ufe to which he meant
to apply it, in the room of his wooden bowl, was to difcovcr
a thief. He faid, that, when any thing was ftolen, and the

thief

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

327

•777'
July.

thief could not be found out, the people were all affembled
together before him, when he wafhed his hands in water in
this veffel ; after which it was cleaned, and then the whole
multitude advanced, one after another, and touched it in
the fame manner as they touch his foot, when they pay
him obeifancc. If the guilty pcrfon touched it, he died
immediately \ipon tae fpot ; not by violence, but by the
hand of Providence ; and if any one refufed to touch it, his
refufal was a clear proof that he was the man.

In the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipfe, the Saturday j.
weather was dark and cloudy, with fliower j of rain ; fo
that we had little hopes of an oblervation. About nine
o'clock the fun broke out at intervals for about half an
hour; after which it was totally obfcured, till within a
minute or two of the beginning of the eclipfe. We were
all at our telefcopes, viz. Mr. Bayly, Mr. King, Captain
Gierke, Mr. Bligh, and myfclf. I loft the obfcrva.lon, by
not having a dark glafs at hand, fuitablc to the clouds that
were continually palling over the fun ; and Mr. i31igh hr:d
not got the fun into the field of his telcfcopc; fo that the
commencement of the eclipfe was only obfcrved by the
other three gentlemen ; and by them, with an xmcertainty
of feveral fcconds, as follows :

H. M. 8.

By Mr. Bayly, at 11 46 2^\
Mr. King, at ii 4O 28
Capt. Gierke, at 11 47 5

I '''I

Apparent time..

•I

Mr. Bayly and Mr. King obfcrved, with the achromatic

tclcfct)pcs, belonging to the board of longitude, of equal

magnifying powers; and Captain Gierke obfcrved with one

of the retlcdlors. The fun ai)pcared at intervals, till about

3 the

i..Y.,,

328

A VOYAGE TO

1777-
July.

m<'s

the middle of the eclipfe ; after which it was feen no more
during the day ; fo that the end could not be obferved.
The dilappointment was of little confequence, lince the
longitude was more than fufficiently determined, indepen-
dently of this eclipfe, by lunar obfervations, which will be
mentioned hereafter.

As loon as we knew the eclipfe to be over, we packed up

the inftruments, took down the obfcrvatories, and fent

every thing on board that had not been already removed.

As none of the natives had taken the leall notice or care of

the three flieep allotted to Mareewagec, 1 ordered them to

be carried back to the fhips. I was appreheniive, that, if I

had left them here, they run great rilk of being deilroyed

by dogs. That animal did not exill upon this illand, when

I firft vilited it in 1773; but I now found they had got a

good many, |)artly from the breed then left by myfclf, and

partly from (ome, imported fince that time, from an illand

not very remote, called Fecjee. The dogs, however, at

prefent, had not found their way into any of the Friendly

Iflands, except Tongatahoo ; and none but the Chiefs there

had, as yet, got pofll-flion of any.

Being now upon the eve of our departure from this
ifland, 1 lli.ill add ibme particulars about it, and its pro-
dudtions, for w hich 1 am indebted to Mr. Anderfon. And,
having fpent as many weeks there, as I had done days *
when I vifited it in 1773, the better opportunities that now
Gcciuretl, of gaining more accurate information, and the
fkill of that gentleman, in dire^ling his encjuirics, will, in
fome meafiire, fupply the impcrfctffion of my former ac-
count of this illand.

" Amfterdam, Tongataboo, or (as the natives :.lfo very

• From the 4tb to the 7th of Odobcr.

frequently

m '^

THE P A C I F* I C OCEAN.

329

frequently called it) Tonga, is about twenty leagues in
circuit, ibmewhat oblong, though, by much, broadcft at
the Eait end ; and its greateft length from Eait to Well. The
South fliore, which 1 law in 1773, is ilraight, and confirts
of coral rocks, eight or ten feet high, terminating perpen-
thcularly, except in Ibme places where it is interrupted by
fmall fandy beaches ; on which, at low water, a range of
black, rocks may be feen. The Weft end is not above live
or fix miles broad, but has a fliore fomewhat like that of
the South lidc ; whereas the whole North fide is environed
with flioals and illands, and the fliore within them low
and fandy. The Eaft fide or end is, moft probably, like the
South ; as the Ihore begins to alTume a rocky appearance^
toward the North Eaft point, though not above fcven or
eight feet high.

The illand may, with the greateft propriety, be called a
low one, as the trees, on the Weft part, where we now lay
at anchor, only appeared ; and the only eminent part,
which can be feen from a lliip, is the South Eaft point ;
though many gently riling and declining grounds are ob-
fervable by one who is afliorc. The general appearance of
the country does not afford that beautiful kind of landfcapc
that is produced from a variety of hills and valleys, lawns,
rivulets, and cafcades ; but, at the fame tiiiiC, it conveys to
the fpctflator an idea of the moft exuberant fertility, whe-
ther we rcfpect the places improved by art, or thofe ftiil in
a natural ft ite ; both which yield all their vegetable pro-
ductions with the greateft vigour, and jicrpctual verdurcJ
A:- a diilapre, the furface Icems entirely clothed with trees
of various fizes ; ibnic of wliieh are very large. But, above
the reft, the t;ill cocoa-palm^ ahvays rail'o their tufted
heads; r.hd arc far from being the finalJeft ornament. to
Vol. I. U u nnv

>777-
July.

mtm

1 ■?'!■'■ IB

330

July.

A VOYAGE TO

aii\ country that produces them. The boo^^Oy which is a
fpccies of fig, with narrow pointed leaves, is the largeft
fized tree of the ifland ; and on the uncultivated fpots, efpe-
cially toward the fea, the inoft common buflics and fmall
trees are \\\q pandanus % fcveral forts of JjibiJCHS\ the/<i!/-
tanoOf mentioned more than once in the courfe of f»ur
voyage ; and a few others. It ought aHo to be obferved,
tliat though the materials for forming grand landfcapes
are wanting, there are many of what might, at leaft, be
called neat piofpefts, about the cultivated grouiids and
dwelling-i^laces ; but, more cfpecially, about xh&jiatookas ;
where fometimes art, and fometimes nature, has done much
to pleiife the eye.

From the fituation of Tongataboo, toward the tropic,
the climate is more variable, than in countries fariher
w ithin that line ; though, perhaps, that might be owing
to the feafon of the year, which was now the winter fol-
llicc. The winds are, for the molt part, from fome point
between South and Eaft ; and, when moderate, are com-
*monly attended wiih fine weather. Wlicn tliey blow
frefher, the weather is often cloudy, though oi)en ; and, in
fuch cafes, there is frequently rain. The wind fometimes
\eers to the North Eaft, North North Eaft, or even North
North Weft, but never lafts long, nor blows ftrong from
thence ; though it is commonly accompanied by heavy
rain, and clofe fviltry weather. The quick fucceflion of
vegetables has been already mentioned ; but I am not cer-
tain that the changes of weather, by which it is brought
about, are confiderable enough to make them percci)tible
to the natives as to their method of life, or rather th.u they
fliould be very fenfible of the diftcrcnt feafons. This,
perhaps, may be inferred from the ftate of their vegetable
I produdions,

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

prochidions, which are never fo much afFe£ted, with re-
Ipedt to the foliage, as to fhed that all at once *, for every
leaf is fucceeded by another, as faft as it falls ; which
caufes that appearance of univerfal and continual fpring
found here.

The bafis of the illand, as far as we know, is entirely a
coral rock, which is the only fort that prefents itlelf on the
fliorc. Nor did we lee the leaft appearance of any other
ftone, except a few fmall blue pebbles ftrewed about the
Jiatookas ; and the fmooth, iblid black ftone, fomething like
the lapis lyd'tus^ of which the natives make their hatchets.
But thefe may, probably, have been brought from other
iilands in the neighbourhood ; for a piece of flatey, iron-
coloured ftone was bought at one t *^ < hem, which was never
feen here. Though the coral projects in many places above
the furface, the foil is, in general, of a confiderable depth.
In all cultivated places, it is, commonly, of a loofe, black
colciu' ; produced, feemingly, in a great meafurc, from the
rotten vegetables that are planted there. Underneath which
is, very probably, a clayey Jlrattim ; for a toil of that kind
is often feen both in the low, and in the ;ifing grounds ;
but efpecially in feveral places toward the fhorc, where it is
of any height ; and, when broken off^, appears f/fmi^tifjiev of
a reddifh, though oftener of a brown ifli yellow C(;lour, and
of a pretty ftiif confiftence. Where the fhore is low, the
foil is commonly fandy, or rather compofed of triturated
coral; which, however, yields bufhes growing with great
luxuriance ; and is fomctimes planted, not unfuccefsfuUy,
by the natives.

Of cultivated fruits, the principal are plar.tains ; of which
tlvey have fifteen diftcrent forts or varieties ; bread-fruit ;
two forts of fruit found at Otaheite, and known there un-

U u 2 der

331

July.

■■'I

il-

'i/HW-f

' (1

i)'t '

•J. I 'J'

332

JuU'.

■4

^T? #;, •

A V O Y A C E TO

fler the names of jambti and eeevee ; the latter a kind of
pUimb; and valt numbers of fliaddocks, which, however,
are found as often in a natural ftate, as planted.

The roots are yams, of whic h are two forts ; one black,
and fo large, that it o*^V_ii weighs twenty or thirty pounds ;
the other white, and long, fcldom weighing a pound ; a
large root, calljd kapp>e ; one not unlike our white pota-
toes, called nunvfjoba ; the taro, or coccos of other places ;
uud .inotber, n\\\\\c([jecjce.

Belidts vart nuiid)ers of cocoa-niTt trees, they have three
othi.r forts of palms, two of ^^ hich are very fcarce. One of
them is called hecoo ; which grows almolf as high as the
•:ocoa-trce, has very large leaves plaited like a fan, and
cbifters or bunches of glol)ular nuts, not larger than a finall
(n.w '. ball, <;rowing amonglt the branches, with a very hard
kernel, v/hich is ibmetimes eat. The other is u kind of
( abbagc-trce, not dillinguifliable from the cocoa, but by
being rather thicker, and by having iti leaves more ragged.
It has a cabbage ihree or four feet long ; at the top of which
are the leaves, and at the bottom the fruit, which is fcarccly
two inches long, refembling an oblong cocoa-nut, with an
infipid tenacious kernel, called, by the natives, nccoo^ooUiy
or •ed c'!Coa-nut, as it aflumes a reddidi call when rijic.
The third fort is called ongo on^o^ and much commoner, be-
ing generally found planted about their //V//0(3/'<r/j'. It feldom
grows higher than five feet, though Ibmetimes to eight;
and lias a vail number of oval comprcifed nuts, as large as
a pippin, fric king iminediitely to the trunk, amonglf the
leaves, which are not eat. There is plenty of excellent
(ugar-canc, which is cviltivated ; gourds ; bamboo ; turme-
ric ; and a fpecies of iig, about the lize of a fmall cherry,
Ctiilc.l huUtCt which, though wild, is fometimes cat. but

the

•>^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

the catalogvie of uncultivated plants is too large to be enu-
merated here. Befides the pempbis decajpermumy mallo-
cocca, maba^ and fome other new genera^ defcrihed by Dr.
Forller •=, there are a few more found here ; which, perhaps,
the different feafons of the year, and his fliort flay, did not
give him an opportunity to take notice of. Although it
did not appear, during our longer ftay, that above a fourth
part of the t '^., and other plants, were in flower; a cir-
cumflance abl(, ately ncceflary, to enable one to dirtinguilli
the various kinds.

The only quadrupeds, bcfides hogs, are a few rats, and
fome dogs, which are not natives of the place, but pro-
duc<;d from fome left by us in I773> and by others got from
Fcejee. Fowls, which are of a large breed, are domefti-
cated here.

Amongft the birds, are parrots, fomcwhat fmallcr than
the common grey ones, of an intlifFerent green on the back
and wings, the tail bluifli, and the rell of a footy or choco-
late brown; parroqucts, not larger than a Iparrow, of a
fine yellowifli green, with bright azure on the crown of
the head, and the throat and belly red ; belldcs another
fort as large as a dove, with a blue crt)wn and thighs, the
throat and under part of the head crimlbn, as alfo jnirt of
the belly, ^iwOi the rcil a beautiful green.

There are owls about the fi/c of oiu- common ri)rt, but
of a liner plumage ; the cuckoos, mentioned at Pnlmerllon's
Uland ; king-lilliers, ul>out the fize of a thrulh, of a green-
ifl\ blue, with a white ring about the neck; and a bird of
the thrulli kind, almoit as big, of a dull green colour, \\\x\\
tv.o vtilow wattles at the bale of the bill, which is the only
fmging one we obferved here; but it compenlatcs a good

* Sec his 0\;r(7.7i/:( G.vuv.'i.vi /'.'(.■/, \v,7-«'/j. Lond. 17-6.

(ic a

333

>777-
July.

\ '

334

July.

1^'--'

f:'^>^

A VOYAGE TO

deal for the want of others by the ftrength and melody of
its notes, which fill the woods at dawn, in the evening, and
at the breaking up of bad weather.

The other land birds are rails, as large as a pigeon, of a
variegated grey colour, with a rurty neck ; a black fort with
red eyes, not hu"gcr than a lark ; large violet-coloured coots,
M ith red bald crowns ; two forts o { fiy-catchers ; a very
fmall fwallow ; and three forts of pigeons, one of which is
/e ramier cuivre of Monf. Sonnerat- ; another, half the flze
of the common fort, of a light green on the back and
wings, with a red forehead ; and a third, lomcwhat lefs, of
a i)urple brown, but whitilh underneath.

Of water-fowl, and fuch as frequent the fea, are the
ducks {q&\\ at Annamooka, though fcarce here ; blue and
white herons; tropic birds ; common noddies ; white terns ;
a new fpecies of a leaden colour, with a black crell ; a
fm;ill bluifh curlew^ ; and a large plover, fpotted with yellow.
Befides the large bats, mentioned before, there is alio the
common fort.

The only noxious or difgufting animals of the reptile or
infccl: tribe, arc fea-fnakes, three feet long, with black
and white circles alternately, often found on fhore ; fomc
fcorpions, and centipedes. There are fine green iiiuinoesy a
foot and a half long ; another brown and fjx^tted lizard,
about a foot long ; and two other Imall forts. • Amongll the
other infe(fls are fome beautifid moths; butterflies; very
large fpiders ; and others ; making, in the whole, about
fifty diftcrent forts.

The fea abounds with filh, thoiK;h the varictv is lefs
than might be expected. The molt troqucnt lorts are mul-
lets ; feveral Ibrts of parr<;>t-filh ; iilver filh ; old w ives ;

• Fcyagt a la NouvtIU Cuiruf, Tab. CII.

fome

:i'.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fome beautifully fpotted foles ; leather-jackets ; bonnetos ;
and albicores; bcHr^es the eels mentioned at Palmerfton's
Illand ; fome Iharl. =i '; rays ; pipe-ufli ; a fort of pike ; and
fome cupous devil-mh.

The many reefs and Ihoals on the North fide of the
ifland, afford fhelter for an endlefs viriety of fliell-fifli;
amongft which are many that are efteemed precious in
Europe. Such as the true bar. ;n« / oyfter ; of which, how-
ever, none could be obtained en^ii^;; a large indentated
oyfter, and feveral others ; but nor e of the common fort ;
panamas ; cones ; a fort of g ;;antic cockle, found alfo in
the T^ait Indies ; pearl fliell oyllcs ; and many others ; fe-
ver .» of which, I believe, have been hitherto unknown to
the moil diligent inquirers after that branch of natural hif-
tory. There are, likewife, feveral forts of fea eggs ; and
many very fine rtar-fifli ; befides a confiderable variety of
corals ; amongft which are two red forts ; the one moft ele-
gantly branched, the other tubulous. And there is no lefs
variety amongft the crabs and cr-xy-fifli, which are very
numerous. To which may be added, feveral forts of fponge;
the fea hare, holoiburia-, and the like."

335

>777'
July.

■i.\

CHAP.

'•PV

33G

A VOYAGE 10

•777
July.

CHAT. IX.

A ^^rcmd Solemnity^ called Natciik, /;; Honour of the King's
Sony /Performed. — T'he ProceUiojis and other Ceremonies^
during the Jirjl Day, defer ibed. — -The Manner of pajjing the
Aight at the King's Houfe. — Con t intuition of the Solemn ityt

. the next Day. — Conjetlures about the Nature of it. — Depar^
ture from Tongataboo, and Arrival at Eooa. — Account of
thot Ijlandi and Tranfailions there.

WE were now ready to fuil ; but the wind being Eiiit-
crly, we had \y<A iiffitient day-light to t^urn through

Sunday 6. thc narrows, either v.uh the morning, or with the evening
flood ; thc one faiii! ip ow: too early, and the other too late.
So that, \\ ithout a IcasHiig wind, wc were under a necellity
of waiting two or three days.

1 took thc opi)ortunity of this delay, to be preient at a
pvdiUt folcmnity, to which the king had invited us, when
we went laft to vifit him, and which, he had informed us,
was to be performed on the Stli. With a view to this,
he and all thc people of note, quitted om- neighbourhood
7- on the 7th, and repaired to Mooa, where thc folcnmity
was to be exhibited. A party of us followed them, the
8. next morning. We undcrllood, from what Poulaho had
faid to us, that his fon and heir w as now to be initiated
into certain prixilcgcs; amongll \'. liich was, that t>f eating

with

Monday
Tuefday

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

^37

with his father; an honour he hail not, as yet, been admit-
ted to.

We arrived at Mooa about eight o'clock, and found the
kini;, with a large circle of attendants fitting before him,
within an inclolure fo fmall and dirty, as to excite my
wonder that any fiuh could be found m that neighbour-
hood. They were intent ujxjn then nal morning occu-
pation, in preparing a bowl of / > this was no li-
qxior for us, we walked out to if o\u- friends,
and to obferve what preparations naking for the
ceremony, which was foon to begu. .\.)out ten o'clock,
the people began to alicmble in a large area, which is be-
fore the nuilace^ or great houfe, to which we had been con-
<lui^ed the firft time we vilited Mooa. At the end of a
road, that opens into this area, ftood fome men with fpears
and clubs, who kept conlfantly reciting, or chanting, Ihort
icntences, in a mournful tone, which conveyed fome idea
of di'lrefs, and as if they called for fomething. This was
continued about an hoiu'; and, in the mean time, many
peo[»lc came down the road, each of them bringing a yam,
tied to the middle of a pole, Mhich they laid down, be-
fore the perfons who continued repeating the fentences.
While this was going on, the king and prince arrived, and
feated themfelves upon the area; and we were defired to
fit down by them, but to pull off our hats, and to untie our
hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each
pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over
their ihoulders. After forming themfelves into companies,
of ten or twelve perfons each, they marched acrois the
])lace, with a quick pace ; each company, headed by a man
bearing a club or fpear, and guarded, on the right, by fevc-
ral others, armed with diflerent weapons. A man carrying

Vol. I. X X ahving

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

^ >^k.

// <y^^'

r/u

1.0

I.I

no ^^

^ as, 12.0

■ 2.2

|||l.25||,.4 |,.6

►

^*-'i'

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WiST MAIN STRKT

WiBSTIR.N.Y. MSSO

(71«) S73-4S03

^.^>

338

A VOYAGE TO

July.

a living pigeon on a perch, clofed the rear of the pro-
ceflion, in which about two hundred and fifty perfons
walked. . - - - -• ./ - .

Omai was defired by me, to afk the Chief, to what place
the yams were to be thus carried, with fo much folemnity i
but, as he feemed unwilling to give us the information we
wanted, two or three of us followed the proceffion, contrary
to his inclination. We found that they ftopped before a
moral or fiatooka * of one houfe ftanding upon a mount,
which was hardly a quarter of a mile from the place where
they firft aflembled. Here we obfervcd them depofiting
the yams, and making them up into bundles ; but for what
purpofe, we could not learn. And, as our prefence feemed
to give them uneafinefs, we left them, and returned to Pou-
laho, who told us, we might amufe ourfelves by walking
about, as nothing would be done for fome time. The fear
of lofing any part of the ceremony, prevented our being
long abfent. When we returned to the king, he defired me
to order the boat's crew not to ftir from the bor>t ; for, as
every thing would, very foon, be taboo, if any of our people,
or of their own, Ihould be found walking about, they would
be knocked down with clubs ; nay mateed, that is, killed.
He alfo acquainted us, that we could not be prefent at the
ceremony ; but that we fhould be condudled to a place,
where we might fee every thing that pafled. Obje(ftions
were made to our drefs. We were told, tiiat, to qualify us
to be prefent, it was neceflary that we Ihould be naked as
low as the breaft, with our hats off, and our hair untied.
Omai offered to conform to thefe requifites, and began to
ftrip ; other objedlions were then ftarted ; fo that the ex-
clufion was given to him equally with ourfelves.

♦ This is rhefiatotka mentioned above by Mr. Anderfon, p. 321.

I did

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

I did not much like this reftridion ; and, therefore, Hole
out, to lee what might now be going forward. I found
very few people ftirring, except thofe drefled to attend the
ceremony ; fome of whom had in their hands fmall poles,
about four feet long, and to the under-pait of thefe were
fattened two or three other flicks, not bigger than one's
finger, and about fix inches in length. Thefe men were
going toward the morai juft mentioned. I took the fame
road, and was, feveral times, flopped by them, all crying
out tadoo. However, I went forward, without much regard-
ing them, till I came in fight of the tnorai, and of the people
who were fitting before it. I was now urged, very ftrongly,
to go back ; and, not knowing what might be the confe-^
quence of a refufal, I complied. I had obferved, that the
i>eople, who carried the poles, pafied this fttoraiy or what I
may, as well, call temple ; and guefling, from this circum-
ftance, that fomething was tranfa6ling beyond it, which
might be worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing,
by making a round, for this purpofe ; but I was fo clofely
watched by three men, that I could not put my defign in
execution. In order to Ihake thefe fellows off, I returned
to the tnalaee, where I had left the king, and, from thence,
made an elopement a fecond time ; but I inflantly met with
the fame three m.en ; fo that it feemed, as if they had been
ordered to watch my motions. I paid no regard to what
they faid or did, till I came within fight of the king's "^xin"
c\\i7\fiatooka or moral, which I have already defcribed''*, be-
fore which a great number of men were iltting, being the
fame perfons whom I had jufl before feen pafs by the other
moral, from which this was but a little diilant. Obferving,
that I could watch the proceedings of this company from

• Seep. 313.

X X 2 the

339

«777'
July.

• "I
> '1

p:J

\ ■

'At

340

A VOYAGE TO

»777-
July.

the king's plantation, I repaired thither, very much to the
fatisfa<5lion of thofe who attended me.

As foon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had
come with me from the lliips, with what I had feen ; and
we took a proper ftation, to watch the refult. The num-
ber of people, at xhejiatooka^ coi„tinued to increafe for fome
time ; and, at length, we could fee them quit their fitting^
pofture, and march off in proceflion. They walked in pairs,
one after another, every pair carrying, between them, one
of the fmall poles above-mentioned, on their flioulders.
We were told, that the fmall pieces of flicks, fattened to the
poles, were yams; fo that, probably, they were meant to
reprefent this root emblematically. The hindmoft man of
each couple, for the moft part, placed one of his hands to
the middle of the pole, as if, without this additional fup-
port, it were not ftrong enough to carry the weight that
hung to it, and under which they all feemed to bend, as
they walked. This proceflion confifted of one himdred and
eight pairs, and all, or moft of them, men of rank. They
came clofe by the fence behind which we ftood ; fo that we
had a full view of them.

Having waited here, till they had all palTed, we then re-
paired to Poulaho's houfe, and faw him going r"«-. We
could not be allowed to follow him ; but were, iwith,

conducSted to the place allotted to us, which was Dchind a
fence, adjoining to the area of tht ^atooka where the yams
had been depolited in the forenoon. As we were not the
only people who were excluded from ocing publicly prefent
at this ceremony, but allowed to peep fnam behind the cur-
tain, we had a good deal of company ; and I obferved, that
all the other inclofures, round the place, were filled with
people. And, yet, all imaginable care feemed to be taken,

that

\A i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

that they fhovild fee as little as poflible ; for the fences had
not only been repaired that morning, but, in many places,
raifed higher than common ; fo that the talleft man could
not look, over them. To remedy this defeil in our flation,
we took the liberty to cut holes in the fence, with our
knives ; and, by this means, we could fee, pretty diftincftly,
every thing that was tranfacSling on the other fide.

On our arrival at our llation, we found two or three
hundred people, fitting on the grafs, near the end of the
road that opened into the area of the f^jrai; and the num-
ber continually increafed, by others joining them. At length,
arrived a few men carrying fome fmall poles, and branches
or leaves of the cocoa-niit tree ; and, upon their firft ap-
pearance, an old man featcd himfelf in the road, and, with
his face toward them, pronounced a long oration in a feri-
ous tone. He then retired back, and the others advancing
to the middle of the area, began to credl a fmall flied ; em-
ploying, for that purpofe, the materials above-mentioned.
When they had finiflied their work, they all fquatted down,
for a moment, before it, then rofe up, and retired to the reft
of the company. Soon after, came Poulaho's fon, preceded
by four or rive men, and they feated themfelves a little afide
from the flied, and rather behind it. After them, appeared
twelve or fourteen women of the firft rank, walking fiowly
in pairs, each pair carrying between them a narrow piece
of wh?te cloth extended, about two or three yards in length,
Thefe marched up to the prince, fquatted down before him ;.
and, having wrapped fome of the pieces of the cloth they
had brought, round his body, they rofe up, and retired in;
the fame order, to fome diftance on his left, and there feated
themfelves. Poulaho himfelf foon made his ap])earancc,
preceded by four men, who walli^ed t^^o and two al^eaft,

and

341

>777-
July.

'*'* i|

A VOYAGE TO

»777-
July.

V. n' f

and fat down on his fon's left hand, about twenty paces
from him. The young prince, then, quitting his firft por-
tion, went and fat down under the ilied, with his attend-
ants; and a confiderable number more placed themfelves
on the grafs, before this royal canopy. The prince himfelf
fat facing the people, with his back to the moral. This
being done, three companies, of ten or a dozen men in
each, rtarted up from amongft the large cix)wd, a little after
each other, and running haftily to the oppofite fide of the
area, fat down for a few feconds ; after which, they re-
turned, in the fame manner, to their former ftations. To
them fucceeded two men, each of whom held a fmall
green branch in his hand, who got up and approached the
prince, fitting down, for a few feconds, three different
times, as they advanced ; and then, turning their backs,
retired in the fame manner, inclining their branches to
each other as they fat. In a little time, two more repeated
this ceremony. ' .

The grand proceffion, which I had feen march off from
the other moral, now began to come in. To judge of the
circuit they had made, from the time they had been abfent,
it mull have been pretty large. As they entered the area,
they marched up to the right of the flied, and, having
proftrated themfelves on the grafs, depofited their pretend-
ed burthens (the poles above-mentioned), and faced rountl
to the prince. They then rofe up, and retired in the fame
order, clofing their hands, which they held before them,
with the moll ferious afpedl, and feated themfelves along
the front of the area. During all the time that this nume-
rous band were coming in, and depoliting their poles, three
men, who fat under the llied, with the prince, continued
pronouncing feparate fentences, in a melancholy tone.
I After

; I

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

After this, a profound filence enfued, for a little time,
and then a man, who fat in the front of the area, began an
oration (or prayer), during which, at feveral different times,
he went and broke one of the poles, which had been
brought in by thofe who had walked in proceflion. When
he had ended, the peoi>le, fitting before the (hed, feparated,
to make a lane, through which the prince and his atten-
dants paffed, and the aflembly broke up.

Some of our party, fatisfied with what they had already
feen, now returned to the fhips ; but I, and two or three
more of the officers, remained at Mooa, to fee the conclu-
lion of the folemnity, which was not to be till the next day ;
being defirous of omitting no opportunity, which might
afford any information about the religious or the political
jnflitutions of this people. The fmall flicks or poles, which
had been brought into the area, by thofe who walked in
proceflion, being left lying on the ground, after the crowd
had difperfed, I went and examined them. I found, that to
the middle of each, two or three fmall flicks were tied, as
has been related. Yet we had been repeatedly told by the
natives, who flood near us, that they were young yams ;
infbmuch that fome of our gentlemen believed them,
rather than their own eyes. As I had the demonflra-
tion of my fenfes to fatisfy me, that they were not real
yams, it is clear, that we ought to have underflood them,
that they were only the artificial reprefentations of thefe
roots.

Our fupper was got ready about feven o'clock. It con-
fifled of filh and yams. We might have had pork alfo ; but
we did not choofe to kill a large hog, which the king had
given to us for that purpofe. He fupped with us, and drank
pretty freely of brandy and water ; fo that he went to bed

with

343

•777'

July.

344

A VOYAGE TO

WediKi; 9

with a fufRcient dofe. We pafled the night in the Hime
houle with him, and levoral of his attendants. 'i

About one or two o'clock in the morning they waked,

and converfed for about an hour, and then went to ileep

again. All, but Poulaho hi . lelf, rofe at day-break, and

went, I know not whither. Soon after, a woman, one of

thofc who generally attended upon the Chief, came in, and

inquired where he was. I pointed him out to her; and

file immediately fat down by him, and began the fame

operation, which Mr. Anderfon had fecn pradtifed upon

Futtafuihe, tapping or beating gently, with her clinched

filKs, on his thighs. This, inftead of prolonging his lleep,

as was intended, had the contrary effedl ; however, though

he awaked, he continued to lie down.

Omai, and I, now went to vifit the prince, who had part-
ed from us early in the evening. For he did not lodge with
the king ; but in apartments of his own, or, at leaft, fuch
as had been allotted to him, at fome dillance from his fa-
ther's houie. We found him with a circle of boys, or
youths, al)out his own age, fitting before him ; and an old
woman, and an old man, who fcemcd to have the care of
him, fitting behind. I'hcre were others, both men and
women, employed about their neceffary affairs, in differ-
ent departments ; who, probably, belonged to his houfe-
hold.

From the prince we returned to the king. By this time
lie had got up, and had a crowded circle before him, com-
pofed chiefly of old men. While a large bowl of ^ava was
preparing, a baked hog and yams, fmoking hot, were
hrought in; the grcateil j^art of which fell to our ihare,
and was very acceptable to the boat's crew : for thefc people
eat very little in a morning; cfpecially the ^tiva drinkers.

1 after-

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

I afterward walked out, and vifitcd feveral other Chiefs ;
and found, that all of them were taking their morning
draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the king, I
found him aileep in a fmall retired hut, with two women
tapping on his breech. About eleven o'clock he arofe
again ; and then fome filh and yams, which tailed as if
they had been ftewed in cocoa-nut milk, were brought to
him. Of thefe he eat a large portion, and lay down once
more to fleep. I now left him, and carried to the prince
a prefent of cloth, beads, and other articles, which I had
brought with me from the Ihip for the purpofe. There
was a fufficient quantity of cloth to make him a complete
ftiit ; and he was immediately decked out with it. Proud
of his drefs, he firft went to fhew himfelf to his father ;
and then condusfted me to his mother ; with whom were
about ten or a dozen other women of a refpeftable ap-
pearance. Here the prince changed his apparel, and made
me a prefent of two pieces of the cloth manufactured in the
illand. By this time, it was paft noon, when, by appoint-
ment, I repaired to the palace to dinner. Several of our
gentlemen had returned, this morning, from the Ihips j and
we were all invited to the feaft, which was prefently ferved
up, and confifted of two pigs and yams. I roufed the drowfy
monarch, to partake of what he had provided for our enter-
tainment. In the mean time, tw^o mullets, and fome Ihell-
fifli, were brought to him, as I fuppofed- for his feparate
portion. But he joined it to our fare, fal 'iown with us,
and made a hearty meal.

When dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony-
would foon begin ; and were ftricflly enjoined not to walk
out. I had reiolved, however, to peep no longer from
behind the curtain, but to mix with the aitors themfelves,

Vol. I. Y y if

345

>777-
July.

r, li

•f-t-

346

A VOYAGE TO

1777'
July.

m pi<iL

1, -Nt 'f'

■ V

■< 'J-

if poflible. With this view, I ftole out from the planta-
tion, and walked toward the ftiorai, the fcene of the folem-
nity. I was, feveral times, defired to go back, by people
whom I met ; but I paid no regard to them ; and they fuf-
fered me to pafs on. When I arrived at the mora if I found
a number of men feated on the fide of the area, on each
fide of the road that leads up to it. A few were fitting on
the oppofite fide of the area ; and two men in the middle of
it, with their faces turned to the moral. When I got into
the midft of the firft company, I was defired to fit down ;
which I accordingly did. Where I fat, there were lying a
number of fmall bundles or parcels, compofed of cocoa-nut
leaves, and tied to fticks made into the form of hand-
barrows. All the information I could get about them was,
that they were taboo. Our number kept continually in-
creafing ; every one coming from the fame quarter. From
time to time, one or another of the company turned him-
felf to thofe who were coming to join us, and made a
Ihort fpeech ; in which I could remark that the word
arekee, that is King, was generally mentioned. One man
faid fomething that produced burfts of hearty laughter
from all the crowd ; others, of the fpeakers, met with
public applaufe. I was, feveral times, defired to leave the
place ; and, at laft, when they found that I would not ftir,
after fome feeming confultation, they applied to me to
uncover my Ihoulders as theirs were. With this requeft
I complied ; and then they feemed to be no longer uneafy
at my prefence.

I fat a full hour, without any thing more going forward,
befide what I have mentioned. At length the prince, the
women, and the king, all came in, as they had done the day
before. The prince, being placed under the Ihed, after

his

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

his father's arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat,
came, repeating fomething ferioully, and put tliem about
him. The affembled people now began their operations ;
and firft, three companies ran backward and forward acrofs
the area, as defcribed in the account of the proceedings of
the former day. Soon after, the two men, who fat in the
middle of the area, made a fhort fpeech or prayer; and
then the whole body, amongft whom I had my place, rtart-
ed up, and ran and feated themfelves before the Ihed under
which the prince, and three or four men, were fitting. I
was now partly under the management of one of the com-
pany, who feemed very alliduous to ferve me. By his
means, I was placed in fuch a fituation, that, if I had been
allowed to make ufe of my eyes, nothing that paffed could
have efcaped me. But it was neceflary to fit with down-
cafl: looks, and demure as maids.

Soon after, the procefllon came in, as on the day before ;
each two pcrfons bearing on their ftioulders a pole, round
the middle of which, a cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. Thefe
were depofited with ceremonies fimilar to thofe obferved
on the preceding day. This firft proceffion was followed
by a fecond ; the men compofing which, brought baikets,
fuch as are ufually employed by this people to carry provi-
fions in, and made of palm leaves. Thefe were followed by
a third procefllon, in which were brought different kinds
of fmall fifti ; each fixed at the end of a forked ftick. The
bafkets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be
the Chief Pricft, and who fat on the prince's right-hand^
without the Ihed. He held each in his hand, while he made
a fliort fpeech or prayer ; then laid it down, and called for
another, repeating the fame words as before ; and thus he
went through the whole number of baflcets. The fifh were

Y y 2 prefented,

347

1777'
July.

348

A VOYAGE TO

'777.

,^r-'f. '

■ t

I'f

1 >

.'Mift

^'9

ill

\£M

prcfentcd, one by one, on the forked fticks, as they cam6
in, to two men, who lat on the left ; and who, till now,
held green branches in their hands. The firft fifli they laid
down on their right, and the fecond on their left. When
the third was prefented, a ftout looking man, who fat be-
hind the other two, reached his arm over between them,
and made a fnatch at it ; as alfo did the other two, at the
very fame time. Thus they feemed to contend for every
fifh that was prefented ; but as there were two hands againft
one, befides the advantage of fituation, the man behind got
nothing but pieces ; for he never quitted his hold, till the
filh was torn out of his hand ; and what little remained in
it, he Ihook out behind him. The others laid what they
got, on the right and left alternately. At length, either by
accident or defign, the man behind got pofleffion of a whole
fifh, without either of the other two fo much as touching
it. At this, the word mareeai, which fignifies very goody or
well (idney was uttered in a low voice throughout the whole
crowd. It feemed, that he had performed now all that was
expetfled from him ; for he made no attempt upon the few
fifli that came after. Thefe fifli, as alfo the bafkets, were
all delivered, by the perfons who brought them in, fit-
ting ; and, in the fame order and manner, the fmall poles,
which the firft proceffion carried, had been laid upon the
ground.

The laft proceflion being clofed, there was fome fpeak-
ing or praying, by different perfons. Then, on fome fignal
being given, we all l^arted up, ran feveral paces to the left,
and fat down with our backs to the prince, and the few
who remained with him. I was defired not to look behind
me. However, neither this injundtion, nor the remem-
brance of Lot's w ife, difcouraged me from facing about.

I now

I'i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

I now faw that the prince had turned his face to the morai.
But this laft movement had brought fo many people be-
tween him and me, that I could not perceive what was
doing. I was afterward aflfured, that, at this very time, the
prince was admitted to the high honour of eating with his
father ; which, till now, had never been permitted to him ;
a piece of roafted yam being prefented to each of them for
this purpofe. This was the more probable, as we had been
told, before-hand, that this was to happen during the fo-
lemnity ; and as all the people turned their backs to them,
at this time, which they always do when their monarch
eats.

After fomc little time, we all faced about, and formed a
femicircle before the prince, leaving a largo open fpace be-
tween us. Prefently there appeared fome me.i com' ^ to-
ward us, two and two, bearing large fticks, oi poles, upon
their fhoulders, making a noife that might be iiUed fing-
ing, and waving their hands as they advanced. When they
had got clofe up to us, they made a fhew of walking very
faft, without proceeding a fmgle ftep. Immediately after,
three or four men ftarted up from the crowd, with large
fticks in their hands, who ran toward thofe new-comers.
The latter inftantly threw down the poles from their flioul-
ders, and fcampered oft"; and the others attacked the poles ;
and, having beat them moft unmercifully, returned to their
places. As the pole-bearers ran off, they gave the challenge
that is ufual here in wreftling ; and, not long after, a num-
ber of ftout fellows came from the fame quarter, repeating
the challenge as they advanced. Thefe were oppofed by a
party, who came from the oppofite fide almoft at the fame
inftant. The two parties paraded about the area for a few
minutes, and then retired, each to their own fide. After

this,

349

I777-
'If-

Jul

■^-;;-^' !

350

1777-
July.

A VOYAGE TO

this, there were wreftling and boxing-matches for about
half an hour. Then two men feated themfelves before tne
prince, and made fpeeches, addreffed, as I thought, en-
tirely to him. ' With this the folemnity ended, and the
whole alTembly broke up.

I now went and examined the feveral bafkets which had
been prefented ; a curiofity that I was not allowed before
to indulge ; becaufe every thing was then tadoo. But the
folemnity being now over, they became, fimply, what I
found them to be, empty bafkets. So that, whatever they
were fuppofed to contain, was emblematically reprefentcd.
And fo, indeed, was every other thing which had been
brought in proceffion, except the filh.

We endeavoured, in vain, to find out the meaning, not
only of the ceremony in general, which is called Natchey
but of its different parts. We feldom got any other anfwer
to our inquiries, but taboo ; a word, which, I have before
obferved, is applied to many other things. But, as the
prince was, evidently, the principal perfon concerned in
it ; and as we had been told by the king, ten days before
the celebration of the Natchej that the people would bring
in yams for him and his fon to eat together; and as he
even defcribed fome part of the ceremony, we concluded,
from what he had then faid, and from what we now faw,
that an oath of allegiance, if I may fo exprefs myfelf, or
folemn promife, was, on this occafion, made to the prince,
as the immediate fuccelTor to the regal dignity, to fland by
him, and to furnifh him with the feveral articles that were
here emblematically reprefented. This feems the more
probable, as all the principal people of the ifland, whom
we had ever feen, affilled in the proceffions. But, be this
as it may, the whole was condudled with a great deal of

3 myflerious

'' .' ' f

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

myfterious folemnity; and, that there was a mixture of
religion in the inftitution, was evident, not only from the
place where it was performed, but from the manner of
performing it. Our drefs and deportment had never been
called in queftion, upon any former occafion whatever.
Now, it was expedled that we fhould be uncovered as low
as the waift ; that our hair fhould be loofe, and flowing
over our fhoulders ; that we fhould, like themfelves, fit
crofs-legged ; and, at times, in the moft humble pofture,
with down-cafl eyes, and hands locked together ; all which
requifites were mofl devoutly obferved by the whole af-
fembly. And, laftly, every one was excluded from the fo-
lemnity, but the principal people, and thoie who affifted
in the celebration. M\ thefe circumftances were to me a
fufficient teflimony, that, upon this occafion, they confi-
dered themfelves as adting under the immediate infpedion
of a Supreme Being.

The prefent Natcbe may be confidered, from the above
account of it, as merely figurative. For the fmall quantity
of yams, which we faw the firft day, could not be intended
as a general contribution ; and, indeed, we were given to
underfland, that they were a portion confecrated to the
Qtooa, or Divinity. But we were informed, ti.at, m about
three months, there would be performed, on the fame ac-
count, a far more imiwrtant and grander foLmnity; on
which occafion, not only the tribute of Tongataboo, but
that of Hapaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other iflands, would
be brought to the Chief, and confirmed more awfully, by
facrificing ten human vi«5lims from amongft the inferior
fort of people. A horrid folemnity indeed ! and which is
a molt fignificant inftance of the influence of gloomy and
ignorant fuperftition, over the minds of one of the mofl

benevolent

351

»777'
July.

1:111 ^"

.^J"

A VOYAGE TO

1777-
July.

I ■ :M !»

f -)

benevolent and humane nations upon earth. On inquiring
into the reafous of fo barbarous a practice* they only faid,
that it was a necelTary part of the Natcbe ; and that, if
they omitted it, the Deity would certainly deftroy their
king.

Before the affembly broke up, the day was far fpent ; and
as we were at fome diilance from the Ihips, and had an in-
tricate navigation to go through, we were in hafle to fef out
from Mooa. When I took leave of Poulaho, he prefled me
much to ilay till the next day, to be prefent at a funeral ce-
remony. The wife of Mareewagee, m ho was mother-in-law
to the king, had lately died ; and her corpfe had, on account
of the Natcbe^ been carried on board a canoe that lay in
the lagoon. Poulaho told me, that, as foon as he had paid the
laft offices to her, he would attend me to Eooa ; but, if I did
not wait, that he would follow me thither. I underftood,
at the lame time, that, if it had not been for the death of
this woman, moft of the Chiefs would have accompanied ns
to that iiland ; where, it feems, all of them have poffeffions.
I would gladly have waited to fee this ceremony alfo, had
not the tide been now favourable for the fhips to get
through the narrows. The wind, belides, which, for feve-
ral days paft, had been very boifterous, was now mode-
rate and fettled ; and to have loft this opportunity, might
have detained us a fortnight longer. But what was deci-
five againft my waiting, we underftood that the funeral ce-
remonies would laft five days, which was too long a time,
as the fliips lay in fuch a fituatiou, that I could not get to
fea at pleafure. I, however, alTured the king, that, if we
did not faL, I Ihoidd certainly vifit him again the next day.
And fo we all took leave of him, and fet out for the ftiips,
where we arrived about eight o'clock in the evening.

I had

HE PACIFIC OCEAN.

I had forgot to mention, that Omai was prefent at this fe-
cond day's ceremony as well as myl'elf ; but we were not
together ; nor did I know that he was there, till it was al-
moft over. He afterward told me, that, as foon as the
king law that I had ftolen out from the plantation, he lent
Ibveral people, one after another, to defire me to come back.
Probably, thefe meflengers .were not admitted to the place
where I was ; for I faw nothing of them. At laft, intelli-
gence was brought to the Chief, that I had adually drip-
ped, in conformity to their cuftom ; and then he told Omai,
that he might be prefent alfo, if he would comply with all
the neceflary forms. Omai had no obj-dlion, as nothing
was required of him, but to conform to the cuftom of his
own country. Accordingly, he was furniflied with a proper
drefs, and appeared at the ceremony as one of the natives.
It is likely, that one reafon of our being excluded at firft,
was an apprehenlion, that we would not fubmit to the re-
quilltes to qualify us to aflift.

While I was attending the Natche at Mooa, I ordered the
horfes, bull and cow, and goats, to be brought thither;
thinking that they would be fafer there, under the eyes of
the Chiefs, than at a place that would be, in a manner, de-
ferted, the moment after our departure. Befides the above-
mentioned animals, we left with our friends here, a young
boar, and three young fows, of the Englifh breed. They
were exceedingly defirous of them, judging, no doubt, that
they would greatly improve their own breed, which is ra-
ther fmall. Feenou alfo got from us two rabbits, a buck
and a doe ; and, before we failed, we were told, that young
ones had been already produced. If the cattle fucceed, of
which I make n., loubt, it will be a vail acquifition to thefe
Vol. I. Z z illands;

.^';3

July.

354

A VOYAGE TO

'777.
ulv.

-,^

iflands ; and, as Tongataboo is a fine level country, the
horfes cannot but be uleful.
Thudday 10. On the loth, at eiglit o'clock in the morning, we weighed
anchor, and, with a fteady gale at South Eaft, turned
through the channel, between the fmall illes called Makka-
haa and Monooafai ; it being much wider than the channel
between the lalt mentioned ifland and Pangimodoo. The
flood fet ftrong in our favour, till we were the length of the
channel leading up to the lagoon^ where the flood from the
Eaftward meets that from the Weft. This, together with
the indraught of the lagoon^ and of the flioals before it,
caufeth ftrong ripplings and whirlpools. To add to thefe
dangers, the depth of water in the channel exceeds the
length of a cable ; fo that there is no anchorage, except
clofe to the rocks, where we meet with forty and forty-five
fathoms, over a bottom of dark fand. But then, here, a
fliip would be expofed to the whirlpools. This fruftrated
the defign which I had formed, of coming to an anchor, as
foon as we were through the narrows, and of making an
excurfion to fee the fimeral. I chofe rather to lofe that ce-
remony, than to leave the fliips in a fituation, in which I
did not think them fafe. We continued to ply to windward,
between the two tides, without either gaining or lofing an
inch, till near high water, when, by a favourable flant, we
got into the Eaftcrn tide's influence. We expedled, there, to
find the ebb to run ftrong to the Eaftward in our favour ;
but it proved fo inconfiderablc, that, at any other time, it
would not have been noticed. This informed us, that moft
of the water, whic h flows into the lagoon, comes from the
North Weft, nnd retm^ns the fame way. About five in the
afternoon, finding that we could not get to fea before it w as
I dark,

j'f ',.

1% '!

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

355

»777'
July.

(lark, I came to an anchor, under the fliore of Tongataboo,
in forty-five fathoms water ; and about two cables length
from the reef, that runs along that fule of the illand. The
Difcovery dropped anchor under our ftern ; but before the
anchor took, hold, Ihe drove off the bank, and did not reco-
ver it till after midnight.

We remained at this ftation, till eleven o'clock, the next Friday u,
day, when we weighed, and plyed to the Eaftward. But it
was ten at night, before we weathered the Eaft end of the
ifland, and were enabled to ftretch away for Middleburg, or
Eooa (as it is called by the inhabitants), where we anchored,
at eight o'clock, the next morning, in forty fathoms water, Saturday 12.
over a bottom of fand, interfperfed with coral rocks ; the
extremes of the ifland extending, from North, 40° Eaft, to
South, 22° Weft ; the high land of Eooa, South, 45' Eaft ;
and Tongataboo, from North, 70" Weft, to North, 19^ Weft ;
diftant about half a mile from the fliore ; being nearly the
fame place where I had my ftation in 1773, ^^^^ then named
by me, Englijh Road.

We had no fooner anchored, than Taoofa the Chief, and
feveral other natives, vifited vis on board, and fecmed to re-
joice much at our arrival. This Taoofa *• had been my Tayo,
when I was here, during my laft voyage ; confequently, we
were not ftrano-ers to each other. In a little time, I went
afliore with him, in fcarch of frefli water ; the procuring
of which, was the chief obje6l that brought me to Eooa. I
had been told, at Tongataboo, that there was here a ftrcam,
running from the hills into the fea; but this w^as not the
cafe now. I was firft condudled to a brackifli fpring, be-
tween low and high water mark, amongft rocks, in the

* In the account of Captain Cook's former voyage, he calls the only Chitf he tlieii

met with, at this place, Tioony.

See Vol. i. p.

192.
2

cove

3S(^

A VOYAGE TO

'777-
July.

cove where we landed, and where no one would ever have
thought of looking for what we wanted. However, I hc-
lieve the water of this fpring might be good, were it pof-
fible to take it up before the tide mixes with it. Finding
that we did not hke this, our friends took us a little way
into the illand ; where, in a deep chafm, we found very
good water; which, at the expence of fome time and
trouble, might be conveyed down to the fliore, by means of
fpouts or troughs, that could be made with plantain leaves,
and the Item of the tree. But, rather than to undertake
that tedious tafk, I refolved to reil contented with the fupply
the (hips had got at Tongataboo.

Before I returned on board, I fet on foot a trade for hogs
and yams. Of the former, we could procure but few ; but,
of the latter, plenty. I put afliore, at this iiland, the ram
and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope breed of flieep ;
intrufting them to the care of Taoofa, who feemed proud
of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewa-
gee, to whom I had given them, as before-mentioned>
ilighted the i)refent. Eooa, not having, as yet, got any dogs
upon it, feems to be a properer place than Tongataboo for
the rearing of flieep.

As we lay at anchor, this ifland bore a very different
afpcd from any we had lately feen, and formed a moll
beautiful landfcape. It is higher than any we had pafled,
fnicc leaving New Zealand (as Kao may jurtly be reckoned
an immcnfe rock), and from its top, which is almoll flat,
declines very gently toward the fca. As the other illes, of
this duller, arc level, the eye can dilcover nothing but the
trce> that cover them ; but here the land, riling gently up-
ward, prefents us with an exteniivc prolpcifl, where groves
of trees are only interfperfed at irregular dillances, in

beautiful

' M

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

357

July.

beautiful tliforder, and the reft covered with grafs. Near
the fliore, again, it is quite fliaded with various trees,
amongft which are the habitations of the natives ; and to
the right of our ilation, was one of the moft extenfive
groves of cocoa-palms we had ever feen.

The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excur- Sunday 13.
fion to the higheft part of the iiland, which was a little to
the right of our fliips, in order to have a full view of the
coimtry. About half way up, we crofled a deep valley, the
bottom and fides of which, though compofed of hardly any
thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. We were
now about two or three hundred feet above the level of the
fea, and yet, even here, the coral was perforated into all the
holes and inequalities, which ufually diverfify the furface
of this fubftancc within the reach of the tide. Indeed, we
found the fame coral, till we began to approach the fum-
mits of the highcil hills ; and, it was remarkable, that
thefe were chieliy compofed of a yellowifh, foft, fandy
ftone. The foil, there, is, in general, a reddifh clay ; which,
in many places, feemed to be very deep. On the moft ele-
vated part of the whole iiland, we foimd a round platform,
or mount of earth, fupported by a wall of coral ftones ; to
bring which, to fuch a height, muft have coft much labour..
Our guides told us, that this mount had been ereiSted by
order of their Chief; and that they, fometimes, met there
to drink kava. They called it Etchee ; by which name, an
eredlion, which we had feen at Tongataboo,, as already
mentioned, was diftinguiflied. Not many paces from it,
was a fpring of excellent water; and, about a mile lower
down, a running ftream, which, we were told, found its
way to the fea, when the rains Mere copious. We alio met

with

1^;

-;i|,f

358

A VOYAGE TO

«777-
July.

with water, in many little holes; and, no doubt, great
plenty might be found, by digging.

From the elevation, to which we had afcended, we had
a full view of the whole ifland, except a part of the South
point. The South Eaft fide, from which the higheft hills,
we were now ujxjn, are not far diftant, rifes with very great
inequalities, immediately from the fea; fo that the plains
and meadows, of which there are here fome of great extent,
lie all on the North Weft fide ; and, as they arc adorned
with tufts of trees, intermixed with plantations, they form
a very beautiful landfcape, in every point of view. While
I was furveying this delightful profpedt, I could not help
flattering myfelf with the pleafing idea, thgit fome future
navigator may, from the fame ftation, behold thefe mea-
dows ftocked with cattle, brought to thefe iJlancb by the
fliips of England; and that the completion of this fingle
benevolent purpofe, independently of all other confidera-
tions, would fufficiently mark to pollerity, that our voyages
had not been ulclefs to the general interefts of humanity.
Befides the i)bnts common on the other neighbouring
ifiands, we found, on the height, a fpecies of acrojiicum^
melajloma, and fern tree; \\\x\\ a few other ferns and
plants, not common lower down.

Our guides informed us, that all, or moft of the land, on
this iiland, belonged to the great Chiefs of Tongataboo ;
and that the inhabitants were only tenants, or valfals, to
them. Indeed, this feemed to be the cafe at all the other
neighbouring iiles, except Annamooka, where there were
fome Chiefs, who feemed to a*5t with fome kind of inde-
pendence. Omai, who was a great favourite with Fecnou,
and thefe people in general, was tempted with the offer of

being

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

359

>777-
July.

being made Chief of this illand, if he wovikl have ftaid
amongft them ; and it is not clear to me, that he would
not have been glad to ftay, if the fcheme had met with my
approbation. I own, I did difapprove of it ; but not be-
caufe I thought that Omai would do better for himfelf in
his own native ille.

On returning from my country expedition, we were
informed that a party of the natives had, in the circle
where our people traded, ftruck one of their own country-
men with a club, which laid bare, or, as others laid, frac-
tured his fkull, and then broke his thigh with the flime ;
when our men intcrpofed. He had no figns of life, when
carried to a neighbouring houfe; but afterward recovered
a little. On my afking the reafon of fo fevere a treat-
ment, we were informed, that he had been difcovercd
in a fituation rather indelicate, with a woman who was
taboo'd. We, however, underllood, that flie was no
otherwil'e taboo'd, than by belonging to another perfon,
and rather fuperior in rank to her gallant. From this
circumftancc, we had an opportunity of oblerving, how
thefe people treat fuch infidelities. But tbe female linner
has, by far, the fmaller fliare of punifliment for her mil-
demeanor ; as they told vis, that flic would only receive a
flight beating.

The next morning, I planted a pine-apple, and fowed Monday 14.
the feeds of melons, and other vegetables in the Chiers
plantation. I had fome encouragement, indeed, to flatter
myfelf, that my endeavours of this kind would not be
fruitlefs ; for, this day, there was ferved up at my dinner,
a difli of turnips, being the produce of the feeds I had left
here during my laft voyage

I had fixed upon the 15th for failing, till Taoofa prefled Tuefday 15.

i.f I

SOo

A VOYAGE TO

«777'
July.

Wednef. i6.

me to ftay a day or two longer, to receive a prcfcnt he had
jnepared for nie. This rcafoii, and the daily expe«^ation of
feeing fonie of our friends from Tongataboo, induced me
to defer my departure.

Accordingly, the next day, I received the Chief's pre-
fent ; confifling of two (iiiall heaps of yams, and fome fruit,
which i'eemed to be coUet^Unl by a kind of contribution,
as at the other illes. On this occalion, moft of the people
of the iiland hail aiTcmbletl at the place ; and, as we had
experienced on fuch numerous meetings amongft their
neighbours, gave us not a little troid)Ie to prevent them
from pilfering whatever they could lay their hands upon.
We were entertained with cudgelling, wrertling, and box-
ing-matches; and in the latter, both male and female
combatants exhibited. It was intended to have {hiiflicd the
fliew with the bo}>uii, or night-dance ; but an accident
either put a total ftop to it, or, at leall, prevented any of us
from flaying afliore to fee it. One of my people, walk-
ing a very little way, was lurrounded by twenty or thirty
of the natives, who knocked him down, and llrippcd him
of every thing he had on his back. On hearing of this,
I immediately feized two canoes, and a large hog; and
iniirted on Taoofa's caufing the clothes to be rertored,
and on the oflbnders being delivered up to me. The
Chief feemed much concerned at what had happened ;
and forthwith took the neceiVary Heps to fatisfy me. This
affair ib alarmed the aflembled people, that molt of them
fled. However, when they found that I took no other
mcafures to revenge the infult, they returned. It was not
long before one of the offenders was delivered up to
me, and a fliirt and a pair of trowfers reftored. The re-
mainder of the Itolen goods not coming in before night,

I was

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

36 r

•777-

July-

w ^

1 was under a ncccfTity of leavin^^ them to go aboard ; for
the fca run fo high, that it was with the grcateft difTitulty
the boats could get out of the creek with c'ay-light, much
Icfs in the dark.

The next morning, I landed again, having provided my- Thurfday 17.
felf with a prefcnt for Taoofa, in return for what he had
given me. As it was early, there were but few people at
the landing-place, and thofe few not without their fears.
But on my defiring Omai to afTure them, that we meant no
harm; and, in confirmation of this afliirancc, having re-
ftored the canoes, and rcleafcd the offender, whom they had
delivered up to me, they rcfumcd their ufual gaiety ; and,
prcfently, a large circle was formed, in which the Chief,
and all the principal men of the illand, took their places.
The remainder of the clothes were now brought in ; but,
as they had been torn off the man's back, by pieces, they
were not worth carrying on board. Taoofa, on receiving
my prefcnt, fliared it with three or four other Chiefs, keep-
ing only a fmall part for himfclf. This prefent exceeded
their expctflation fo greatly, that one of the Chiefs, a vene-
rable old man, told me, that they did not deferve it, con-
fidering how little they had given to me, and the ill treat-
ment one of my jieople had met with. I remained with
them till they had fmiflied their bowl of iava ; and
having then paid for the hog, which I had taken the day
before, returned on board, with Taoofa, and one of
Poulaho's fervants, by whom I fent, as a parting mark, .
of my efteem and regard for that Chief, a piece of bar
iron ; being as valuable a prefent as any I could make to
him.

Soon after, we weighed, and with a light breeze at

South Eaft, ftood out to fea; and then Taoofa, and a

Vol. I. 3 A few

-4' i:

T: ^»

3^»

A VOYAGE TO

• 777.

July.

few other natives, that were in the fliip, left us. On
heaving up the anchor, we found, that the cable had
fuffcred confiderably by the rocks ; fo that the bottom, in
this road, is not to be dei)cnded upon. Be fides this, we ex-
perienced, that a prodigious fwell rolls in there from the
South Welt.

We had not been long under fail, before we obfervcd
a failing canoe coming from Tongataboo, and entering
the creek before which we had anchored. Some hours
after, a fmall canoe, conducted by four men, came otf to
us. For, as we had but little wind, we were, Hill, at no
great dittance from the land. Thefe men told us, that
the failing canoe, which we had feen arrive from Ton-
gataboo, had brought orders to the people of Eooa, to
furnifli us with a certain number of hogs ; and that, in
two days, the king, and other Chiefs, would be with us.
They, therefore, defired we would return to our former
ftation. There was no reafon to doubt the truth of what
thefe men told us. Two of them had adlually come from
Tongataboo, in the failing canoe ; and they had no view
in coming off to us, but to give this intelligence. How-
ever, as we were now clear of the land, it was not a
fufficient inducement to bring me back ; efpecially as we
had, already, on board, a flock of frelh provifions, fuf-
ficient, in all probability, to laft during our paffagc to
Oruheite. Befides Taoofa's prefent, we had got a good
quantity of yams at Eooa, in exchange chiefly for fmall
nails. Our fupply of hogs was alfo confiderably increafed
there ; though, doubtlefs, we Ihould have got ma- v more,
if the Chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, wV\.>lc ;^-"-
perty they moftly were. At the approach of ni^^ ixelc
men, finding that we would not retuin, left us ; as alfo

fome

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fome others, who h:\cl < ome off in two canoes, with a few
cocoa-nuts, and Ihi-Ulocks, to exchange them for what thcv
could get; the cagt:mefs of thele people to get into their
pofleflion more of our commodities, inducing them to fol-
low the fhips out to fea, aiul to continue then iiUcrcomie
with us to the laft moment.

363

1777.

3 A 2

CHAP.

3^4

A VOYAGE TO

CHAP. X.

fT m

Jdvaiitaqes derived from vijiting the Friendly Iflands. — Bejl
Articles for Traffic. — Refrefhnients that may be procured,— -
The Number of the I /lands, and their Names. — Keppel's
and Bofca'wen's I/lands belong to them. — Account oj
Favaoo — of Hamoa — of Feejee. — Voyages of the Natives in
their Caiioes. — Difficulty of procuring exa^ Information. —
Perfons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes. — T'heir Colour. —
Difeafes. — Their general CharaSler. — Manner of ivearing
their Hair — of puncturing their Bodies. — Their Clothing
and Ornaments. — Perfonal Clcanlinefs.

«777-
July.

THUS we took leave of the Friendly Iflands, and their
inhabitants, after a ftay of between two and three
months ; cUning which time, we lived together in the molt
cordial friendlhip. Some accidental differences, it is true,
now and then happened, owing to their great pn-penfity to
thieving; bnt, too often, encovn-aged by the negligence of
our own people. Hut thefe dillerences were never attended
with any fatal confequences ; to prevent which, all my
meafurcM were dired^ed ; and, 1 believe, few, on board our
fliips, left oiu' friends here without ibnie regret. The time,
employed amonglt them, was not thrown away. We ex-
pended very little of our fea provilion^ ; fublilting, in ge-
neral, uj)on the prcKluce of the iflands, while ^^ e Itaid ; and
tarrying away with us a quantity of refrclliments fullicient

«■« t

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

365

to laft till our aiTival at another ftation, where we could
depend upon a frefli fupply. I was not ibrry, befides, to
have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of thcfe
good people, by leaving the ufeful animals, before-men-
tioned, among them ; and, at the fame time, thofe dcfigned
for Otaheite, received frefli ftrcngth in the pallures of Ton-
gataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we
received, by toviching here, were very great ; and 1 had the
additional fatisfadlion to refledl:, that they were received,
without retarding, one moment, the profecution of the
great object of our voyage ; the fcafon, for proceeding to the
North, being, as has been already obferved, loft, before I
took the refolution of bearing away for thefe illands.

But, befides the immediate advantages, which both the
natives of the Friendly Illands, and ourfelves, received by
this vifit, future navigators from Europe, if any fuch fliould
ever tread our fteps, will profit by the kno%\ ledge I acquired
of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean; and the
more philofophical reader, who loves to view human nature
in new fituations, and to Ipeculate on fingular, but faithful
reprefentations of the perfons, the cuftoms, the arts, the
religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated
man, in remote and frefli difcovcred quarters of the i!;lobe,
will, i)erhaps, find matter of amufemcnt, if not of inftruc-
tion, in the information which I have been enabled to con-
vey to him, concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago.
1 fliall fufpend my narrative, of the progrefs of the voyage,
while I faithfully relate what 1 had opportunities of C()llc<5t-
ing on tbcfe feveral topics.

We found, by our experience, that the bcft articles for
traffic, at thefe iilandsy are iron tot)ls in general. Axes and
hatchets; nails, from the largefi: fpike down to tenpcnny

ones;

«777-
July.

'^-

366

1777-
July.

h , '<

i I

A VOYAGE TO

ones ; rafps ; files ; and knives, are much fought after.
Red cloth ; and linen, both white and coloured ; looking-
glafles, and beads, are alfo in eftimation ; but, of the latter,
thofe that are blue, are preferred to all others ; and white
ones are thought the leaft valuable. A ftring of large blue
beads would, at any time, purchafe a hog. But it mull be
obferved, that fuch article as are merely ornaments, may *
be highly efteemed at one time, and not fo at another.
When we firit arrived at Annamooka, the people there
would hardly take them in exchange even for fruit; but
when Feenou came, this great man fet the fafliion, and
brought them into vogue, till they rofe in their value to
what I have juft mentioned.

In return for the favourite commodities which I have
enumerated, all the refrefhments may be procured that the
iflands produce. Thefe are, hogs, fowls, fifh, yams, bread-
fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, fugar-cane, and, in. general,
every fuch fupply as can be met with at Otaheite, or any of
the Society Iflands. The yams of the Friendly Iflands are ex-
cellent, and, when grown to perfe<5lion, keep very well at fea.
But their pork, bread-fruit, and plantains, though far from
defpicable, are, neverthelefs, much inferior in quality to the
fame articles at Otaheite, and in its neighbourhood.

Good water, which fliips, on long voyages, fliand fo much
in need of, is fcarce at thefe iflands. It may be found, it is
true, on them all; but, flill, either in too inconfiderable
quantities, or in fituations too inconvenient, to ferve the
purixifes of navigators. However, as the iflands afford
plenty of provifions, and particularly of cocoa-nuts, fliips
may make a tolerable fliift with fuch water as is to be got ;
and if one is not over-nice, there will be no want. While
we lay at anchor, under Kotoo, on our return from Haj>aec,
I fome

^1'^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fome people, from Kao, informed us, that there was a ftream
of water there, which, pouring down from the mountain,
runs into the fea, on the South Weft fide of the ifland ;
that is, on the lide that faces Toofoa, another ifland re-
markable for its height, as alfo for having a confiderable
volcano in it, which, as has been already mentioned, burnt
violently all the time that we were in its neighbourhood. It
may be vorth while for future navigators, to attend to this
intelligence about the ftream of water at Kao ; efpecially as
we learned that there was anchorage on that part of the
coaft. The black, ftone, of which the natives of the Friendly
Iflands make their hatchets, and other tools, we were in-
formed, is the produdlion of Toofoa.

Under the denomination of Friendly Iflands, we mvift in-
clude, not only the group at Hapaee, which I vifited, but
alfo all thofe iflands, that have been difcovered nearly
under the fame meridian, to the North, as well as fome
others that have never been feen, hitherto, by any Euro-
pean navigators ; but are under the dominion of Tongata-
boo, which, though not the largeft, is the capital, and feat
of government.

According to the information that we received there, this
Archipelago is very extenfive. Above one hundred and
fifty iflands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who
made ufe of bits of leaves to afcertain their number ; and
Mr. Anderfon, with his ufual diligence, even procured
all their names. Fifteen of them are faid to be high, or
hilly, fuch as Toofoa, and Eooa ; and thirty-five of them
large. Of thefc, only three were feen this voyage; Hapaee
(which is confidercd by the natives as one ifland), Ton-
gataboo, and Eooa : of the fize of the unexplored thirty-
two, nothing more can be mentioned, but that they muft

367

1777-
July.

»'l»>

368

A VOYAGE TQ

' 1 _L'j

>777-
July.

he all larger than Annamooka; which thole, from whom
we had our information, ranked amopgft the fmaller ifles.
Some, or indeed feveral, of this latter denomination, are
mere fpots, without inhabitants. Sixty -one of thcfc illands
have their proper places and names marked upon our chart
of the Friendly Illands, and upon the ikctch of the harbour
of Tongataboo, to both which I refer the reader. But it
muft be left to future navigators, to introduce into the
geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean, the
exadt fituation and fize of near a hundred more illands in
this neighbourhood, which wc had not an opportunity to
explore ; and whofc exirtcnce we only learnt from the tefti-
mony of our friends, as above-mentioned. On their autho-
rity, the following lilt of them was made ; and it may fcrve
as a ground-work for farther inveftigation.

Names of the Friendly IJlands, and others^ in that Neigh-
bourhoody mentioned by the Inhabitants of Annamooka^
Hapaee, and Tongataboo ••••.

Komoocfeeva,

Kollalona,

Fclongaboonga,

Kovereetoa,

Fonogoocatta,

Noogoofaecou,

Korecmou,

Failcmaia,

Kowecka,

Konookoonama,

Modooanoogoo noo- Kooonoogoo,
goo, Gccnagcena,

Tongooa, Kowourogoheefo,

Koooa, Kottejcea,

Fonooa ecka, Kokabba,

Novababoo,

Golabbe,

Vagaeetoo,

Gowakka,

Goofoo,

Maf^xnna,

K(5lloooa,

Tabanna,

Motooha,

Looakabba,

* Thofc iilands, which tlie natives rcprcfcntcJ as large ones, are diftinguiflied in
Italics.

VavaoOi

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

369

Koloa,

Fafeene,

Taoonga,

Kobakeemotoo,

Kongahoonoho,

Komalla,

Kouoababoo,

Konnctalle,

Komongoraffa,

Kotoolooa,

Kologobeele,

Kollokolahee,

Matageefaia,

Mallajee,

Mallalahee,

Gonoogoolaiee,

Toonabai,

Konnevy,

Konnevao,

Moggodoo,

LoOamoggo,

Boloa,

Toofagga,

Loogoobahanga,

Taoola,

Maneeneeta,

Fonooaooma,

Fonooonneonne,

Wegafta,

Fooamotoo,

Fonooalaiee,

Tattahoi,

Latte,

Neuafo^

Feejee,

Oowatay

Kongaiaraboi^

Kotooboooy

Komotte,

Konwarra,

Kolaiva,

Kofoona^

Toofanaetollo,
Toofanaelaa,

KogoopoloOf

Havaeeeeke,

Tootooeeltty

Manooka,

Lefhainga,

Pappaiaia^

Loubatta,

Ohoy

Takounove^

Kopaooy

Kovooeea,

Kongaireekec^

To.feedoowaia^

Hamoa^

Neeoofaboofabooy

Fotoonay

Fytooboo,

Lotoojua^

Toggelao^

Talava.

"777.
July.

Konnagillelaivoo,

I have not the lead doubt, that Prince William's Hlands,
difcovered, and fo named by Tafman, arc included in the
foregoing lift. For while we lay at Hapaee, one of the na-
tives told me, that, three or four days fail from thence, to
the North Weft, there was a dufter of fmall iftands, conftft-
ing of upward of forty. This fituation corrcfponds very well
with that ailigned, in the accounts wc have of Tafman's
voyage, to his Prince William's lilands •■.

* Tafman favv eighteen or twenty of thefe fmall iflands, every one of which was fiir-
rouniicd with fands, Ihoals, and rocks, Ilicy arc alfo called, in (ome charts, Hccmjliik's

Vol. I.

B<l:ih.

f.'i

:^*»

3/0

»777-
July.

A VOYAGE TO

We have alfo very good authority to beUeve, that Kep-
pel's and Bofcavven's IllandS) two of Captain Wallis's difto-
veries in 1765, are comprehended in our lill ; and that they
arc i.ot only well known to thefe people, but are under the
fame fovcreign. The foU'^wing information feemed to me
decifive as to this. Upon my inquiring, one day, of Pou-
laho, the king, in what manner the inhabitants of Tongata-
boo had acquired the knowledge of iron, and from what
quarter they had procured a fmall iron tool; which 1 had
feen amongft them, w hen I lirlt vidted their illand, during
my former voyage, he informed me, that they had received
this iron from an illand, which he called Neeootabootaboo.
Carrying my inquiries further, I then defired to know,
whether he had ever been informed, from whom the
people of Neeootabootaboo had got it. I found him per-
fectly acquainted with its hillory. He faid, that one of
thofe illanders fold a club, for five nails, to a fliip which
had touched there; and that thefe five nails afterward
were fent to Tongataboo. He added, that this was the firft
iron known amongft them ; fo that, what Tafman left of
that metal, muft have been worn out, and forgot long ago.
I was very particular in my inquiries about the fituation,
fize, and form of the illand ; exprefling my defire to know^
when this lliip had touched there ; how long flie ftaid ;
and whether any more were in company. The leading
fa(5ls api)earcd to be frefh in his memory. He faid, that
there was but one fliip; that Ihe did not come to an an-
chor, but left the illand after her boat had been on fliore.
. And from many circumftances, which he mentioned, it
could not be many years fmcc this had happened. Ac-

Banki. See Dalrymplc's Collection of Voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, Vol. ii.
p. 83. ; and Campbell's edition of Harris's, Vol. i. p. 325.

cording

fe^i

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

cording to his information, there are two iflands near each
other, which he himfelf had been at. The one he defcribed
as high, and peaked hke Kao, and he called it Kootahee ;
the other, where the people of the fliip landed, called
Neeootabootaboo, he reprefented as much lower. He add-
ed, that the natives of both are the fame fort of people
with thofe of Tongataboo ; built their canoes in the fame
manner ; that their iflands had hogs and fowls ; and, in ge-
neral, the fame vegetable produ<Slions. The fliip, fo point-
edly referred to in this converfation, could be no other
than the Dolphin; the only iingle Ihip from Europe, as
far as we have ever learned, that had touched, of late
years, at any ifland in this part of the Pacific Ocean, prior
to my former vifit of the Friendly Iflands *.

But the moft confiderable iflands in this neighboxirhood,
that we now heard of (and we heard a great deal about
them), are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee. Each of thefe was
reprefented to us as larger than Tongataboo. No European,
that we know of, has, as yet, feen any one of them. Taf-
man, indeed, lays down in his chart, an ifland nearly in
the lituation where I fuppofe Vavaoo to be ; that is, about
the latitude of 19" +. But, then, that ifland is there marked

• See Captain Wallis's Voyage, in Hawkefworth's CoUeflion, Vol. i. p. 492 — 494.
Captain Wallis there calls both thefe iflands high ones. But the fuperior height of one of
them may be inferred, from his faying, that it appears like a fii^ar-loaf. This ftrongly
marks its rcfcmblance to Kao. From comparing Poulaho's intelligence to Captain
Cook, with Captain Wallis's account, it feems to be paft all doubt, that Bofcavven's
Ifland is our Kootahee, and Keppel's Ifland our Neeootabootaboo. The laft is one of
the large iflands mariced in the foregoing lift. The reader, who has been aUcudy apprized
of the variations of our people in writing down what the natives pronounced, will hardly
dciibt that Kottcjeea and Kootahee are the fame.

t Neither Dalrymple nor Campbell, in their accoimts of Tafinan's voyage, take any
particular notice of his having feen fuch an ifland. 'l"he chart here referred to, by Cap-

3 B 2 **"'

371

•777-

July.

-iSil

■■^.

■'^■•' \

372

A VOYAGE TO

J ^^^

7*i f

1 «'

as a very fmall one ; whereas Vavaoo, according to the
united tellimony of all our friends at Tongataboo, exceeds
the lize of their own illand, and has high mountains. I
Ihould certainly have vilited it ; and have accompanied Fee-
iiou from liapaee, if he had not then diicouraged me, by
repreltnting it to be very inconliderable, and without any
harbour. But Foulaho, the king, afterward affured me, that
it was a large illand ; and that it not only produced every
thing in common with Tongataboo, but had the peculiar
advantage of polfelTing feveral ftreams of frefli water, with
as good a harbour as that which we found at his capital
illand. He offered to attend me, if I would vifit it ; adding,
that, if 1 did not find every thing agreeing with his repre-
fentation, I might kill him. I had not the leaft doubt of
the truth of his intelligence ; anil was fatisfied that Fee-
nou, from fome intereilcd view, attempted to deceive
me.

Hamoa, which is alfo under the dominion of Tongataboo,
lies tw^o days fail North Welt from Vavaoo. It was defcribed
to me, as the largell of all their illands ; as allbrding har-
bours and good water ; and as producing, in abundance,
every article of refreiliment found at the places we vifited.
Poulaho, himielf, frequently relides there. It Ihould feem,
that the people of this illand are in high ellimation at Ton-
gataboo; for we were told, that fome of the longs and
dances, with which we were entertained, had been copied
fiom theirs ; and we faw fome houfes, faid to be built after
their falhion. Mr. Andcrfon, always incjuilltive about fuch

1* '•

tain C(X)k, is, probably, Mr. Dalrymple's, in his Collection of Voyages, where Tafman's
fra<3 is markfJ accurately; and '':vcral very fmall fpots ollanJ aic laid down in the fitua-
tion here mcntiyiicd.

matters.

f' ' 1

•ir-

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

matters, learnt the three following words of the
Hamoa.

Tamo/ao ^•, a chief man.

Tamaety, a chief woman.

So/Jet a common man.

edof

Feejee,

• In two or three preceding notes, extracts have been made from the Lettrei Edi^
fianies et Curieufts, as marking a (Irong refemblance between fomc of the cuftoms of the
inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands, and thofe which Captain Cooic defcribes as prevail-
ing at an immcnfe diftance, in the iflands which he vifited in the South Pacific Ocean.
Poflibly, however, the prcfumption, arlfing from this refemblance, that all thefe iflands
were peopled by the fame nation, or tribe, may be refifted, under the plaufible pretence,
that cuftoms very fimilar prevail amongft very diftant people, without inferring any other
common fourcc, befidcs the general principles of human nature, the fame in all ages, and
every part of the globe. The reader, perhaps, will not think this pretence applicable to
tlic matter before us, if he attends to the following very obvious diftinftion : Thofe cuf-
toms which have their foundation in wants that are common to the whole human fpecies,
and which are confined to the contrivance of means to relieve thofe wants, may well be
fuppofed to bear a ftrong refemblance, without warranting the conclufion, that they who
ufe them have copied each other, or have derived them from one common fource ; human
(iigacity being tlie fame every where, and the means adapted to the relief of any parti-
cular nntural want, cfpecially in countries ftmilarly uncultivated, being but few. Thus
the moll diftant tribes, as widely feparated as the Kamtfchadalcs are from the Brazilians,
may produce their fire, by rubbing two fticks upon each other, without giving us the Icaft
foundation for fuppofing, that either of them imitated the other, or derived the in\'ention
from a fourcc of inftrudtion common to both. But this feems not to be the cafe, with
regard to thofe cuftoms to which no general principle of human nature has given birth,
and which have their cftablifliment folely from the endlefs varieties of local whim, and
national fafliion. Of this latter kind, thofe cuftoms obvioufly are, that belong both
to the North, and to the South Pacific Iflands, from which we would infer, that they
were originally one nation ; and the men of Mangeea, and the men of the New Philip-
pines, who pay their refpeifts to a perfon whom they mean to hoiiour, by rubbing his
hand over their flices, bid fair to have learnt their mode of falutation in the fame Cchool.
But if this obfervation fhould not have removed the doubts of the fceptical refiner, pro-
b.ibly he will hardly venture to perfift in denying the identity of race, contended for in the
prcfent inftance, when he fhall obfcrve, that, to the proof drawn from affinity of cuftoms,
we have it in our power to add that mofl: unexceptionable one, drawn from affinity of
language. Tamoloa, we now know, is the word ufed at Hamoa, one of the !■ rienuly Iflands,
tofignify a Chief; and whoever looks into the Lcttrcs EdiJianUs a Curiinffs, will li;ejthat

this

373

»777-
July.

'■■■'I

374

^777-
July.

i5f' f

A VOYAGE TO

Feejcc, as we were told, lies three clays fail from Tonga-
taboo, in the direcflion of North Weft by Weft. It was de-
fcribed to us as a high, but very fruitful ifland ; abounding
with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all the kinds of fruit and roots
that are found in any of the others ; and as much larger
than Tongataboo; to the dominion of which, as was re-
prefented to us, it is not fubjcdt, as the other illands of this
archipelago arc. On the contrary, Feejce and Tongataboo
frequently make war upon each other. And it appeared,
from fcvcral circumftanccs, that the inhabitants of the lat-
ter arc much afraid of this enemy. They xifed to cxprefs
their fenfc of their own inferiority to the Fcejec men, by
bending the body forward, and covering the face with their
hands. And it is no wonder, that they fliould be under
this dread ; for thofc of Keejce are formidable on account
of the dexterity with which they ufe their bows and llings;
but much more fo, on account of the favage pradtice to
which they are addicted, like thofe of New Zealand, of
eating their enemips, whom they kill in battle. We were
fatisfied, that this was not a mifrcprefentation. For we met
with fcveral Fe^jee peoj)le at Tongataboo, and, 'a inquir-
ing of them, the> did not deny the charge.

Now, that I am again led to Ipeak of cannibals, let me
afk thofe who maintain, that the want of food lirft brings
men to feed on human flefli. What is it that induceth the
Feejee people to keep it up, in the midtt of plenty ? This

this is the very name by which the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands diftinguifli their prin-
cipal men. We have, in two preceding notes, infcrted paflages from Father Cantova's
account of them, where their Tumola are fpoken of; and he repeats the word at k-aft a dozen
times, in the courfe of a few pages. But I cannot avoid tranfcribing, from him, tlie fol-
lowing very decifive teftimony, which renders any other quotation fupcrfluous. " L'auto-
" ritie du Gouvernement fe partagc entre plufieurs families nobles dont les Chefs s'ap-
" pellent Tamoh. II y a outre cela, dans chaque province, un principale TamoU^ auquel
" tous Ics autrcs font foumis." Ltttm Edifinnut tt Curieufa, Tom. xv. p. 312.

3 practice

1 /< ' {

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

pra(flicc is detefted, very much, by thofe of Tongataboo,
who cultivate the friendfhip of their favage neighbours of ,
Feejee, apparently out of fear; though they fometimes ven-
ture to fkirmifh with them, on their own ground; and
carry off red feathers, as their booty, which are in great
plenty there, and, as has been frequently mentioned, are
in great eftimation amongtl our Friendly Iflandcrs. When
the two illands are at peace, the intercourfe between them
feems to be pretty frequent ; though they have, doubtlefs,
been but lately known to each other ; or we may fuppofe,
that Tongataboo, and its adjoining illands, would have been
fupplied, before this, with a breed of dogs, which abound
at Feejee, and had not been introduced at Tongataboo, fo
late as 1773, when I firft vifited it. The natives of Feejee,
whom we met with here, were of a colour that was a full
fhade darker, than that of the inhabitants of the Friendly
Iflands in general. One of them had his left ear flit, and
the lobe was fo diftended, that it almoft reached his
fl:\oulder; which fingularity I had met with at other iflands
of the South Sea, during my fecond voyage. It appeared
to me, that the Feejee men, whom we now faw, were much
refpedled here; not only, perhaps, from the power, and
cruel manner of their nation's going to war, but, alfo, from
their ingenuity. For they feem to excel the inhabitants of
Tongataboo in that refpedl, if we might judge from feve-
ral fpecimens of their fkiU in workmanfliip, which we faw ;
fuch as clubs and fpears, which were carved in a very
mafterly manner ; cloth beautifully chequered ; variegated
mats ; earthen pots ; and fome other articles ; all which
had a caft of fuperiority in the execution.

I have mentioned, that Feejee lies three days fail from
Tongataboo, bccaufe thefe people have no other method of

meafuring

37:

17??

Julv

376

VOYAGE TO

1777-
July.

III'!

■ill ik^Hm^

mcaluriiig the dillancc from illaiul to illand, but by cxprcfl-
iiig the time reriuired to make the voyage, in one of their
canoes. In order to afcertain this, with Tome precilion, t)r,
at lead, to form Ibme Judgment, how far thefc canoes tan
fail, in a moderate gale, in any given time, I went on board
one of them, when under fail, and, by leveral trials with
the log, found that flic went feven knots, or miles, in an
hour, doll- hauled, in a gentle gale. From this I Judge,
that they will lail, on a medium, with huh bree/.es as ge-
nerally blow in their i'ea, about feven or eight miles in an
hoiu'. l)Ut the length of each day is not to be reckoned at
twenty-four hours. I'or when they fpcak of one day's fail,
they mean no more than from the morning to the evening
of the fame day ; that is, ten or twelve hours at moft. And
two days I'ail, with them, lignilies from the morning of
the firll day, to the evening of the I'econd ; and fo for
any other number of days, hi thefe navigations, the Tun
is their guide by day, and the itars by night. When thefc
are obfcured, they have recomfe to the points from whence
the winds and the waves came upon the vefi'el. If, during
the oblciUMtion, both the w ind and the waves fliould lliift
(which, within the limits of the trade-wind, feldom happens
at any other time), they are then bewildered, frequently
mifs their intended ix)rt, and arc never heard of more. The
hiftory of Omai's countrymen, who were driven to Wa-
teeoo, leads us to infer, that thofe not heard of, are not
always loft.

Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with
amongft thefe illands, that of Tongataboo is, by far, the
beft ; not only on account of its great fecurity, but of its
capacity, and of the goodnefs of its bottom. The riik that
we ran, in entering it from the North, ought to be a fufli-

cient

I,! i.

^■4 '

.Mi ^.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

377

cient caution, to every future Commander, not to attcmj^t
that palia^e again witli a Ihip of burden ; iinie the other,
by whicli we left it, is fo much more eafy and lafe. To
fail into it, by this Eaftern channel, lleer in for the North
Eaft pi)int of the iiland, and keep along the North Ihore,
with the fmall illes on your Itarboard, till you are the leni;;th
of the Eall point of the entrance into the /ai^oon ; then edge
over for the reef of the fmall illes ; and, on following its
diredion, it will condudl you through between Makkahaa
and Monooafai, or the fourth and fifth illes, which you will
perceive to lie otf the Welt ix)int of the lajroon. Or you may
go between the third and fourth illands, that is, between
Pangimodoo and Monooafai ; but this channel is much
narrower than the other. There runs a very llrong tide in
both. The flood, as I have oblerved before, comes in from
the North Weft, and the ebb returns the fame way ; but I
fliall fpeak of the tides in another place. As foon as you
are through either of thefe channels, haul in for the Ihore
of Tongataboo, and anchor between it and Pangimodoo,
before a creek leading into the lagoon ; into which boats
can go at half flood.

Although Tongataboo has the beft harbour, Annamooka
furnifhes the beft water ; and yet, it cannot be called good.
However, by digging holes near the Tide of the pontl, we
can get what may be called tolerable. This iiland, too, is
the beft fituated for drawing refrefliments from all the
others, as being nearly in the centre of the whole group.
Befules the road in which we anchored, and the harbour
within the South Weft point, there is a creek in the reef,
before the Eaftern fandy cove, on the North ildc of the
iiland, in which two or three ihips may lie very iecurely,
Vol. I. 3 C by

«777.
July.

,'t

378

A VOYAGE TO

1777-
July.

> !''■■ '.

■iiiiil

t i! I. <'

by mooring head and Item, with their anchors or moorings
fall to the rocks.

I have already defcribed the Hapaee iilands ; and fliall
only add to that deicription, by mentioning, that they ex-
tend South Weft by South, and North Eaft by North, about
nineteen miles. The North end lies in the latitude of 19°
39' South, and 33 of longitude to the Eaft of Annamooka.
Between them, are a great many fmall iilands, land-banks,
and breakers ; fo that the fafeft w'ay to arrive at Hapaee, is
either by the courfe I held, or round by the North ; accord-
ing to the fituation of the Ihip bound thither. Lefooga, oft'
which we anchored, is the moft fertile ille of thofe that are
called Hapaee; and, confequently, is the beft inhabited.
There is anchorage along the North Weft fide of this ifland ;
but it will be ncceflary to examine the ground well before
you moor. For, although the lead may bring up fine fand,
there are, neverthelels, Ibme fliarp coral rocks, that would
foon deftroy the cables.

They who want a more particular deicription of the
Friendly Iflands, muft have recourfe to the chart that we
conftruded. There, every thing is delineated with as much
accuracy as circumftances would permit. Recourfe muft,
alfo, be had, to the fame chart, for the better tracing the
feveral ftations of the Ihips, and their route from the one
illand to the other. To have fwelled my journal with a
minute account of bearings, tackings, and the like, would
neither have been entertaining nor inftrudlive.

What has been here omitted, concerning the geography
of thefe iilands, will be found in the narrative of my
laft voyage *. To that narrative I muft alio refer +, for

• Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 211. 213. f Ibid. p. 213. 225.

fuch

u^ %

.J.V-

:^i

■ ll

I.
I

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

fuch particulars concerning the inhabitants, their manners,
and arts, as I had oblerved then, and about which I law no
reafon to change my judgment. At prefent, I fliall confine
myfelf to fuch interefting particulars, as cither were not
mentioned in that narrative, or were imperfedtly and incor-
reftly reprefented there ; and to luch as may ferve to ex-
plain Ibme paffiiges in the foregoing account of our tranf-
a(5tions with the natives.

It may, indeed, be expelled, that, after fpending between
two and three months amonglt them, I (liould be enabled
to clear up every difRculty, and to give a tolerably fatisfac-
tory account of their curtoms, opinions, and inftitutions,
both civil and religious ; efpecially as we had a perfon on
board, who might be fuppofed qualiiied to a6t the part of
an interpreter, by undcrftanding their language and ours.
But poor Omai was very deficient. For unlcfs the objeil or
thing we wanted to inquire about, was acStually before us,
we found it difficult to gain a tolerable knowledge of it,
from information only, without falling into a hundred
miflakes ; and to fuch miilakes Omai was more liable than
we were. For, having no curioflty, he never gave himfelf
the trouble to make remarks for himfelf; and, when he
was difpofed to explain matters to us, his ideas appeared to
be fo limited, and, i')erhaps, lb different from ours, that his
accounts were often fo confufed, as to perplex, inftcad of
inftruding us. Add to this, that it was very rare that we
found, amongft the natives, a perfon, who united the abi-
lity and the inclination to give us the information we
wanted ; and, we found, that molt of them hated to be
troubled with what they, ]irobably, thought idle c[uciUons.
Our lltuation at Tongataboo, where we remained the long-
ell, was, likcwilc, unfavourable. It was in a part of the

^(12 i:()untrv,

.179

»777.
July.

38-0

»777-
July.

j,r ffl«5f I

\m V,, r_ ,<

A VOYAGE TO

country, where there were few inhabitants, except fifhers.
It was ahvays holiday with our vifiters, as well as with thole
we vifitcd ; io that we had hut few opportunities of obferv-
ing, what was really the domeltic way of living of the na-
tives. Under thcfe difad vantages, it is not furprizing, that
we fliould not be able to bring away with us fatisfadlory
accounts of many things ; but ibme of us endeavoured to
remedy thole diladvantages, by diligent obfervation ; and I
am indebted to Mr. Anderfon for a confiderable lliare of
what 'jUows, in this and in the following chapter, hi other
matters, I have only expreffed, nearly in his words, remarks
that coincided with mine ; but what relates to the religion
and language of thefe people, is entirely his own.

The natives of the Friendly Illands feldom exceed the
common ftature (though we have meafured fome, who
were above fix feet) ; but are very ftrong, and well made ;
efpecially as to their limbs. They are generally broad
about the flioulders ; and though the mufcular difpofition
of the men, which feems a confequence of much ad^ion,
rather conveys the appearance of ftrength than of beauty,
there are feveral to be feen, who are really handfome.
Their features are very various ; infomuch, that it is
fcarcely poflible to fix on any general likenefs, by which to
charadterize them, unlefs it be a fuUnefs at the point of the
nofe, which is very common. But, on the other hand, we
met with hundreds of truly European faces, and many ge-
nuine Roman nofes, amongft: them. Their eyes and teeth
are good ; but the laft neither fo remarkably white, nor io
well fet as is often found amongfl: Indian nations ; though,
to balance that, few of them have any uncommon thick*-
ncfs about the lips, a defedl as frequent as the other per-
fedlion.

The

"?■

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

The women are not fo much diftinguilhed from the men
by their features as by their general form, which is, for the
molt part, deftitate of that ftrong flefhy firmnefs that ap-
pears in the latter. Though the features of fome are fo
delicate, as not only to be a true index of their fex, but to
lay claim to a confiderable fliare of beauty and expreflion,
the rule is, by no means, fo general as in many other coun-
tries. B\it, at the fame time, this is frequently the moft
exceptionable part ; for the bodies and limbs of moft of the
females are well proportioned ; and fome, abfolutely, per-
fedl models of a beautiful figure. But the moft remarkable
diftindlion in the women, is the uncommon fmallnefs and
delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in competition
with the fineft in Europe.

The general colour is a caft deeper than the copper
brown ; but feveral of the men and women have a true
olive complexion ; and fome of the laft are even a great
deal fairer ; which is probably the effedt of being lefs ex-
pofed to the fun ; as a tendency to corpulence, in a few of
the principal people, feems to be the confequence of a more
indolent life. It is alfo amongft the laft, that a foft clear
fkin is moft frequently obferved. Amongft the bulk of
the people, the fkin is, more commonly, of a dull hue, with
fome degree of roughnefs, efpecially the parts that are
not covered ; which, perhaps, may be occafioned by fome
cutaneous difeafe. We faw a man and boy at Hapaee, and
a child at Annamooka, perfectly white. Such have been,
found amongft all black nations ; but I apprehend that
their colour is rather a difeafe, than a natural phDeno-
menon.

There are, neverthelefs, upon the whole, fe-Av natural
dcfetfts or deformities to be found amongft them ; though

381

1777.

July.

¥ r

38:

A VOYAGE TO

I777«
July.

we faw two or three with their feet bent inward ; and fome
afflicted with a Ibrt of blindnefs, occafioned by a difeafe of
the cornea. Neither are they exempt from fome other dif-
cafes. The molt common of which is the tetter, or ring-
worm, that feems to aft'edt almoll one half of them, and
leaves whitifh ferpentine marks, every where, behind it.
But this is of lefs coniequence than another difeale, which
is very frequent, and api>ears on every part of the body, in
large broad ulcers with tliick. white edges, difcharging a
thin, clear matter; fome of which had a very virulent
appearance, particularly thofe on the face, which were
Ihocking to look at. And yet we met with fome who
feemed to be ciu^ed of it, and others in a fair way of be-
ing cured ; but this was not effoited without the lofs of
tlie nofe, or of the beft part of it. As we know for a cer-
tainty -^^ (and the fadl is acknowledged by themfelvcs), that
the people of thefe illands were fubjedt to this loathfomc
difeafe before the Englifh firft vifitcd them, notwithftand-
ing the fimilarity of fymptoms, it cannot be the eifedl of
the venerear contagion ; unlefs we adopt a fuppolition,
which I could wifli had fufficient foxuidation in truth, that
the venereal diforder was not introduted here from Eu-
rope, by our fhips in 1773. It, alTuredly, was now found
to fcxift amongll them ; for we had not l)een long there,
before fome of our jieople received the infecftion ; and 1
had the mortification to learn from thence, that all the
cai-e I took, when I firlV vifitcd thele illands, to prevent this
dreadful difeafe from being communicated to their inha-
bitants, had proved ineffedlual. What is extraordinary,

* See Vol. ii. p. 20. of Captain Cook's Voyage, where he gives a particular account
of metting with a pcrfon afflidted with this difeafe, at Amiamooka, on his landing there
in I77j.

they

- . ,%»

|v-' j?l^-

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

they do not feem to regard it much ; and as we faw few
figns of its deftroying effedls, probably the climate, and the
way of living of thefe people, greatly abate its virulence.
There are two other difeafes frequent amongft them ; one
of which is an indolent firm fwelling, which affedls the legs
and arms, and increafes them to an extraordinary lize in
their whole length. The other is a tumour of the fame
fort, in the tefticles, which fometimes exceed the fize of
the two fifts. But, in other refpe(5ls, they may be confidered
as uncommonly healthy ; not a fingle perfon having been
feen, during our ftay, confined to the houfe, by ficknefs of
any kind. On the contrary, their ftrength and adlivity are,
every way, anfwerable to their mufcular appearance ; and
they exert both, in their ufual employment, and in their
diverfions, in fuch a manner, that there can be no doubt of
their being, as yet, little debilitated by the numerous dif-
eafes that are the confequence of indolence, and an unna-
tural method of life.

The graceful air and firm ftep with which thefe people
walk, are not tlie leaft obvious proof of their perfonal
accomplifliments. They confider this as a thing fo na-
tural, or fo neceffary to be acquired, that nothing ufed
to excite their laughter fooner, than to fee us frequently
Humbling upon the roots of trees, or other inequalities of
the ground.

Their countenances very remarkably exprefs the abun-
dant mildnefs, or good-nature, which they poffefs ; and are
entirely free from that favage keennefs which marks na-
tions in a barbarous Itate. One would, indeed, be apt to
fancy that they had been bred up under the feverelt re-
ftri(Slions, to acqmre an afpedt fo fettled, and fuch a com-
mand of their paffions, as well as fteadinefs in condudt.
3 ^"t

383

•777.
July.

V'«-

5S4

1-77-
July.

):^'

A VOYAGE TO

But they arc, at the fame time, frank, cheerful, and gootl-
humoured ; though, fometimes, in the prefence of their
Chiefs, they put on a degree of gravity, and fuch a ferious
air as becomes lliff and awkward, and has an appearance
of referve.

Their peaceable difpofition is fufRciently evinced, from
the friendly reception all ilrangers have met with, who have
vifited them. Inftead of offering to attack them openly, or
clandeftinely, as has been the cafe with moft of the inha-
bitants of thefe feas, they have nevtr appeared, in the
fmalleft degree, hoftile ; but, on the contrary, like the moil
civilized people, have courted an intcrcourfe with their vi-
fiters, by bartering, which is the only medium that unites
all nations in a fort of friendfliip. They underftand barter
(which they call fukkatou) fo perfedlly, that, at firft, we
imagined they might have acquired this knowledge of it by
commercial intercourfe with the neighboviring iilands ; but
we were afterward affured, that they had little or no traffic,
except with Feejee, from which they get the red feathers,
and the few other articles, mentioned before. Perhaps, no
nation in the world traffic with more honefty and lefs
dillrull. We could always fafely permit them to examine
our goods, and to hand them about, one to another ; and
they put the fame confidence in us. If either party repent-
ed of the bargain, the goods were re-exchanged with mu-
tual confent and good-humour. Uix)n the whole, they
feem poffefled of many of the moll excellent qualities that
adorn the human mind ; fuch as indullry, ingenuity, per-
feverance, affability, and, perhaps, other virtues which our
fhort Hay with them might prevent our obferving.

The only defe<St fullying their chara«5ler, that we know
of, is a propenfity to thieving ; to which, we found, thofe

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

of all ages, and both fexes, addided ; and to an uncommon
degree. It fliould, however, be coniidered, that this excep-
tionable part of their condudl feemed to exifl merely with
refpedt to us ; for, in their general intercourfe with one an-
other, I had reafon to be of opinion, that thefts do not
happen more frequently (perhaps lefs fo) than in other
countries, the diflioneft practices of whofe worthlefs indi-
viduals are not fuppoled to authorize any indifcriminate
cenfure on the whole body of the people. Great allow-
ances fliovdd be made for the foibles of thefe poor natives
of the Pacific Ocean, whofe minds we overpowered with
the glare of objedts, equally new to them, as they were cap-
tivating. Stealing, amongft the civilized and enlightened
nations of the world, may well be coniidered as denoting a
charadler deeply ftained with moral turpitude, with avarice
unreftrained by the known rules of right, and with profli-
gacy producing extreme indigence, and negledling the
means of relieving it. But at the Friendly and other illands
which we vifited, the thefts, fo frequently committed by
the natives, of what we had brought along with us, may
be fairly traced to lefs culpable motives. They feemed
to arife, folely, from an intenfe curiolity or defire to polTefs
Ibmcthing which they had not been accuftomed to before,
and belonging to a fort of people fo different from them-
felves. And, perhaps, if it were poflible, that a fet of be-
ings, feemingiy as fuperior in our jvidgment, as we are in
theirs, fliould appear amongfl us, it might be doubted,
whether our natural regard to juftice would be able to re-
flrain many from fulling into the fame error. That I have
afligned the true motive for their propeniity to this pra(5lice,
appears from their Healing every thing indifcriminatcly at
full fight, before tliey could have the leaft conception of
Vol. 1, 3D converting

3S5

>777-
July.

386

i-?7.
July.

.* f

«4

k 1

4.',

fc 1

^'' t

-5 ,1

A VOYAGE TO

converting their prize to any one ufefiil purpofc. But, I
believe, with iis, no perfon would forfeit his reptuation, or
expofe himfelf to puniflimcnt, without knowing, before
hand, how to employ the ftolen goods. Upon the whole,
the pilfering difpofition of thefe illanders, though certainly
difagreeable and troublefome to ftrangcrs, was the means
of affording us fome information as to the quicknefs of
their intelle<5ts. For their fmall thefts were committed with
much dexterity ; and thofe of greater confequence with a
plan or fcheme fuited to the importance of the objedls. An
extraordinary inftance of the laft fort, their attempts to
carry away one of the Difcovery!s anchors, at mid-day,
has been already related.

Their hair is, in general, ftraight, thick, and ftrong;
though a few have it bufhy or frizzled. The natural co-
lour, I believe, almoft without exception, is black ; but the
greateft part of the men, and fome of the women, have it
ftained of a brown, or purple colour; and a few of an
orange call. The firft colour is produced by applying a
fort of plafter of burnt coral, mixed with water; the fe-
cond, by the rafpings of a reddifh wood, which is made up
with water into a poultice, and laid over the hair ; and the
third is, I believe, the effedl of turmeric root.

When I firll vifited thefe iilands, I thought it had been
an univerfal cuftom for both men and women to wear the
hair fliort ; but, during our prefent longer flay, we faw a
great many exceptions. Indeed, they are fo whimfical in
their f: liions of wearing it, that it is hard to tell w hich is
mofl in vogue. Some have it cut off from one fide of the
head, w hile that on the other fide remains long ; fome have
only a portion of it cut fliort, or, perhaps, fliaved ; others
have it entirely cut oflf, excej^t a fingle lock, which is left
1 commonly

li :.

dr"-

I |1 .

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

387

commonly on one fide ; or, it is fufFerecl to ^row to its full
length, without ai.^ of thefe mutilations. The women, in
general, wear it fliort. The men have their beards cut Ihort ;
and both men and women ftrip the hair from their arm-
pits. The operation by which this is performed has been
already defcribed. The men are ftained from about the
middle of the belly, to about half way down the thighs,
with a deep blue colour. This is done with a flat bone in-
ftrument, cut full of line teeth, which, being dipped in the
ftaining mixture, prepared from the juice of the dooe dooe^ is
ftruck into the Ikin with a bit of flick -, and, by that means,
indelible marks are made. In this manner they trace lines
and figures, which, in fome, are very elegant, both from
the variety, and from the arrangement. The women have
only a few fmall lines or fpots, thus imprinted, on the infide
of their hands. Their kings, as a mark of diftin^lion, are
exempted from this cuftom, as alfo from inflidting on
themfelves any of thofc bloody marks of mourning, which
fliall be mentioned in another place.

The men are all circumcifed, or rather fupercifed; as
the operation confiits in cutting off only a fmall piece of
the forefkin, at the upper part ; which, by that means, is
rendered incapable, ever after, of covering the glans. This
is all they aim at ; as they fay, the operation is prailifed
from a notion of cleanlinefs.

The drefs of both men and women is the fame; and
confifts of a piece of cloth or matting (bvit moflly the
former), about two yards wide, and two and a half long;
at leaft, fo long as to go once and a half round the waifl,
to which it is confined by a girdle or cord. It is double
before, and hangs down, like a petticoat, as low as the
middle of the leg. The upper part of the garment, above

3 D 2 the

1777.

July.

I til

' I]

388

1777.
July.

A VOYAGE TO

the p;inlle, is plaited into fcveral folds ; fo that, when un-
folded, there is cloth lufficicnt to draw up and wrap round
the IhoiUders; which is very fcldom done. This, as to
fonn, is the general drcfs ; but large pieces of cloth, and
fine matting, arc worn only by the fuperior people. The
inferior fort are fatisfied with fmall pieces ; and, very often,
wear nothing but a covering made of leaves of plants, or
the maroy which is a narrow piece of cloth, or matting, like
a faih. This they pafs between the thighs, and wrap
round the waift; but the ufe of it is chiefly confined to
the men. In their great haivasy or entertainments, they
have various drefles made for the purix)fe ; but the form
is always the fame; and the richeft drefles are covered,
more or lefs, with red feathers. On what particular occa-
fion their Chiefs wear their large red feather-caps, I could
not learn. Both men and women fometimes fliadc their
faces from the fun with little bonnets, made of various
materials.

As the clothing, fo are the ornaments, worn by thofe
of both fexes, the fame. The mott common of thefe are
necklaces, made of the fruit of the pandanus, and various
fweet-fmelling flowers, which go under the general name
of kabulla. Others are compofed of fmall fliells, the wing
and leg-bones of birds, fliark's teeth, and other things ; all
which hang loofc upon the breaft. In the fame manner,
they often wear a mother-of-pearl fliclj, neatly ixjliflied,
or a ring of the fame fubilance carved, on the upper part
of the arm ; rings of tortoife-lhell on the fingers ; and a
number of thcfc, joined together, as bracelets on the
vvrifts.

The lobes of the ears (though, moft frequently, only
one) are perforated with Xsso holes, in which they wear

cylindrical

Wk '?.^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

cylindrical bits of ivory, about tbrcc incbcs long, intro-
tlaced at one hole, and brought out of the other; or bits
of reed of the fame fize, fdled with a yellow pigment. This
feems to be a fine powder of turmeric^ with whic h the wo-
men rub themfelves all over, in the fame manner as our
ladies ufe their dry rouge upon the checks.

Nothing appears to give them greater pleafure than per-
fonal cleanlinefs ; to produce which, they frequently bathe
in the ponds, which feem to ferve no other purpofe *'^
Though the water in moll of them ftinks intolerably, they
prefer them to the fea ; and they are lb fenfible that fait
water hurts their fkin, that, when necefTity obliges them to
bathe in the fea, they commonly have fome cocoa-nut ihells,
filled with frefh water, poured over them, to wafli it off.
They are immoderately fond of cocoa-nut oil for the fame
reafon ; a great qviantity of which they not only pour upon
their head and flioulders, but rub the body all over, brilkly,
"vith a fmaller quantity. And none but thofe who have
feen this practice, can eafily conceive how the appearance
of the Ikin is improved by it. This oil, however, is not to
be procured by every one ; and the inferior fort of people,
doubtlefs, appear lefs fmooth for want of it.

* So at the Caroline Iflands. " lis font accoutemes a fe baigner trois fois, Ic jour, I«
matin, a midi, et fur le foir." Ltttm EdtfimUi et Curitufes, Tom. xv. p. 314.

389

1777-
July.

^ l]

' i

CHAP.

.V)0

A VOYAGE TO

H•:1^

CHAP. XI.

T.mploytitefifs of the IVometJ^ at the Friendly IJlands. — Of the
Men. — Agriculture. — Conjlru&ion of their Houfes. — Their
"xorking Tools. — Cordage, andjijhing Implements. — Mujical
Ivjlruments. — Weapons. — Food,^ and Cookery. — Amufe-
vients. — Marriage. — Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead. —
Their Divinities. — Notions about the Soul, and a future
State. — Their Places of IVorJhip. — Government . — Manner
of paving Obeifance to the King. — Account of the Royal
Family. — Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of
it. — Nautica'i and other Obfervations.

^1 "'

i't J.

«777-

Tuly.

THEIR domeftic life is of that middle kind, neither
fv) laborious as to be difagreeable, nor fo vacant as to
fuffer them to degenerate into indolence. Nature has done
fo much for their country, that the firft can hardly occur,
and their difpofition feems to be a pretty good bar to the
laft. By this happy combination of circumftances, their
necefTiu^y labour feems to yield, in its turn, to their recrea-
tions, in fuch a manner, that the latter are never interrupt-
ed by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to the former,
till fatiety makes them willi for fuch a tranf.tion.

The employment of the women is of the eafy kind, and,
for the moft part, fuch as may be executed in the houfe.
The manufadluring their cloth, is wholly configned to their
care. Having already deicribed the procefs, I fliall only
add, that they have this cloth of different degrees of fine-

nefs.

i 1

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

39«

ncfs. The coarfcr fort, of which they make very large
I)icces, does not receive the imprelUon of any pattern. Of
the finer fort, they ha\ e fome that is llriped, and chequered,
and of other patterns differently coloured. But how thefc
colours are laid on, 1 cannot fay, as I never faw any of this
fort made. The cloth, in general, will refift water, for
fome time ; but that which has the l^rongell glaze will re-
fill longell.

The manufadlure next in confcquence, and alfo withiri
the department of the women, is that of their mats, which
excel every thing I have feen at any other place, both as
to their texture and their beaiity. In particuhr, many of
them are fo fuperior to thofe made at Otahtite, that they
are not a bad article to carry thither, by way of trade. Of
thefe mats, they have feven or eight different forts, for the
purpofes of wearing or llceinng upon; and many are merely
ornamental. The lall are chiefly made from the tough,
membraneous part of the ttock of the plantain tree ; tlM)fe
that they wear, from the pandamis^ cultivated for that pur-
ix>fe, and never fuffcred to flioot into a trunk ; and the
coarfer fort, which they fleep upon, from a plant called
evarra. There re many other articles of lefs note, that
employ th*. tpare time of their females ; as combs, of which
they make vail nvimbers ; and little baikets made of the
fame iubitance as the mats, and others of the fibrous cocoa-
nut luiik, either plain, or interwoven with fmall beads;
but all, finilhcd with fuch neatnefs and taftc in the difpofi-
tion of the various parts, that a Itranger cannot help ad-
miring their affiduity and dexterity.

The province vdlotted to the men is, as might be cxpecSled,
far more laborious and extcnfive tuan that of the women.
Agriculture, architedlure, boat-bviilding, fifliing, and other

things

«777.
July.

.^9*

A VOYAGE TO

«777'
July.

I.- I

things that relate to navigation, are the obje<Sts of their
care •% Cultivated roots and fruits being their principal
fupix)rt, this requires their conftant attention to agricul-
ture, which they purfue very diligently, and feem to have
brought almoft to as great perfedlion as circumftances will
j^rmit. The large extent of the plantain fields has been
taken notice of already ; and the lame may be fiiid of the
yams ; theie two together, being, at leaft, as ten to one,
with refpedt to all the other articles, hi planting both
thefe, they dig fmall holes for their reception, and, after-
ward, root up the furrounding grafs, which, in this hot
country, is quickly deprived of its vegetating power, and,
foon rotting, becomes a good manure. The inftruments
they ufe for this purpofe, which they call /jooOf are nothing
more than pickets or ftakes of different lengths, according
to the depth tlicy have to dig. Thefe are flattened and
fharpened to an edge at one end ; and the largeft have a
fhort piece fixed tranfverfely, for prefling it into the
ground with the foot. With thefe, though they are not
more than from two to four inches broad, they dig and
plant ground of many acres in extent. In planting the
plantains and yams, they obferve fo much exadlnefs, that,
whichever way you look, the rows preient themfelves re-
gular and complete.

The cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees are fcattered about
without any order, and feem to give them no trouble, after

• How remarkably does Captain Cook's account of the employments of the women
and men here, agree with Father Cantova's, of the Caroline Idandcrs ? — " I,a principaJe
" occupation des hommes, eft de conftruire des barques, de pecher, et dc cultiver la tcrrc.
" L'afFaire des fcnimes eft de faire la cuifine, ct de niettre en oeuvre un efpece dc plante
" fauvage, et un arbre, — pour en faire dc la toilc." Ltttrts EdifianUs et CurUufis, Tom.
XV. p. 313.

thev

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

393

they have attained a certain height. The l^ime may be faid
of another large tree, which produces great numbers of a
large, roundifh, comprelTed nut, called eecfee ; and of a
fmaller tree, that bears a rounded oval nut, two inches long,
with two or three triangular kernels, tough and inlipid,
called tnabba, moll frequently planted near their houfes.

The kappe is, commonly, regularly planted, and in pretty
large fpots ; but the mawhaba is interfpcrfed amongll other
things, as the Jeejee ?ind yams are ; the laft of which, I have
frequently feen in the interlpaces of the plantain trees, at
their common diftance. Sugar-cane is commonly in imall
fpots, crowded clofely together ; and the mvilberry, of
which the cloth is made, though without order, has fuffi-
cient room allowed for it, and is kept very clean. The
only other plant, that they cultivate for their manufac-
tiires, is the pandanus ; which is generally planted in a
row, clofe together, at the fides of the other fields ; and
they confider it as a thing fo diftindl in this ftate, that
they have a different name for it ; which fliews, that they
are very fenfible of the great changes brought about by
cultivation.

It is remarkable, that thefe people, who, in many
things, fliew much tafte and ingenuity, fliould fliew little
of cither in building their houfes ; though the defedt is ra-
ther in the defign, than in the execution. Thofe of the
lower people are poor huts, fcarcely fufficient to defend
them from the weather, and very fmall. Thofe of the
better fort, are larger nnd more comfortable ; but not w}v.ii
one might expe'51. The dimenfions of one of a middling
fize, are about thirty feet long, twenty broad, and twelve
high. Their houfe is, properly fpeaking, a thatched roof
ox filed, fuppoited by ports and rafters, difpofed in a very
Vol. I. 3 E judicious

July.

■f'f:

4, j

394

A VOYAGE TO

Ji .

hi a

judicious manner. The floor is raifed with earth fnnoothed,
and covered with ftrong, thick matting, and kept very
clean. The moft of them are clofed on the weather fide
(and fome more than two-thirds round), with ftrong mats,
or with branches of the cocoa-nut tree, plaited or woven
into each other. Thefe they fix up edge wife, reaching
from the eaves to the ground ; and thus they anfwer the
purpofe of a wall. A thick, ftrong mat, about two and
one half or three feet broad, bent into the form of a fcmi-
circle, and fet upon its edge, with the ends touching the
fide of the houfe, in fhape rcfembling the fender of a fire
hearth, inclofes a fpace for the mafter and miftrefs of the
family to fleep in. The lady, indeed, fpends moft of her
time, during the day, within it. The reft of the family
fleep upon the floor, wherever they pleafe to lie down ; the
unmarried men and women apart from each other. Or,
if the family be large, there are fmall huts adjoining, to
which the fervants retire in the night ; fo that privacy is as
much obferved here, as one could expedl. They have
mats made on purpofe for fleeping on ; and the clothes
that they wear in the day, fcrve for their covering in the
night. Their whole furniture confifts of a bowl or two,
in which they make iava; a few gourds; cocoa-nut fheUs;
fome fmall wooden ftools, which ferve them for pillows ;
and, perhaps, a large ftool for the Chief, or Mafter, of the
family to fit uixin.

Ihe only probable rcafon I can affign for their neglect of
ornamental architc6lure, in the conltrudtion of their houfes,
is their being fond of living much in the open air. Indeed,
they fcem to confider their houfes, within which they lel-
dom eat, as of little ufe but to fleep in, and to retire to in
bad weather. And the lower fort of people, who fpend a
I great

r-L - J_

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

great part of their time in dole attendance upon the C^ief?,
can have little ufe for their own houfes, but in the lait
cafe.

They make amends for the defe(n:s of their houfes, by
their great attention to, and dexterity in^ naval archi-
tedlure, if I may be allowed to give it that name. But I
refer to the narrative of my laft voyage, for an account of
their canoes, and their manner of building and navigating
them *.

The only tools which they ufe, to conftruil thefe boats,
are hatchets, or rather thick, adzes, of a fmooth black ftone
that abounds at Toofoa; augers, made of fhark's teeth,
fixed on fmall handles ; and rafps, of a rough Ikin of a filh,
fattened on flat pieces of wood, thinner on one fide, which
alfo have handles. The labour and time employed in fi-
nilhing their canoes, which are the moft perfe6t of their
mechanical produdlions, will account for their being very
careful of them. For they are built and preferved under
Iheds ; or they cover the decked part of them with cocoa-
leaves, when they are hauled on fhore, to prevent their
being hurt by the fun.

The fame tools are all they have for other works ; if we
except different Ihells, which they ufe as knives. But there
are few of their produdtions that require thefe^ unlefs it be
fome of their weapons ; the other articles being chiefly
their fifliing materials, and cordage.

The cordage is made from the fibres of the cocoa-nut
huf k, which, though not more than nine or ten inches long,
they plait, about the fize of a quill, or lefs, to any length

♦ Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 215, 216. The reader, by comparing that account,
with what Cantova fays of the fea-boats of the Caroline Iflands, will find, in this iiifionce,
alfo, the greatcft fiinilarity. Sec Lcttrcs Edifiantcs et Curieufes, p. 286.

3E a that

395

July.

(•

A VOYAGE TO

' I

!
ji ' '

that they plcal'c, and roll it up in balls ; from which the
larger ropes are made, by twilling feveral of thefe together.
The lines, that they fifli with, are as ftrong .nd even as the
bcft cord we : ^ke, refembling it almolt in every refpedt.
Their other fi.aing implements, are large and fmall hooks.
The laft are compofed entirely of pearl-fliell ; but the firft
are only covered with it on the back ; and the points of
both, commonly, of tortoife-fliell ; thofe of the fmall be-
ing plain, and the others barbed. With the large ones, they
catch bonnetos and albicores, by putting them to a bamboo
rod, twelve or fourteen feet long, Avith a lijie of the fame
length, which refts in a notch of a piece of wood, fixed in
the Hern of the canoe for that purpofe, and is dragged on
the furface of the fea, as flie rowes along, without any
other bait than a tuft of flaxy ftufF near the point. They
have alfo great numbers of pretty fmall feines, fome of
which are of a very delicate texture. Thefe they ufe to
catch filh with, in the holes on the reefs, when the tide
ebbs.

The other manual employments, coniift chiefly in making
mufical reeds, flutes, warlike weapons, and ftools, or rather
piUows, to flcep on. The refc<ls have eight, nine, or ten
pieces placed parallel to each other, but not in any regular
progreffion ^ having the longeft, fometimes, in the middle,
and feveral of the iamc length ; fo that I have feen none
with more than ilx notes; and they feem incapable of play-
ing any mulic on them, that is diltinguifliable by our ears*.
The flutes .re a joint of bamboo, clofe at both ends, with a
hole near each, and four others ; two of which, and one of
the firit only, are ufcd in playing. They ap]^iv the thumb

* Sec a drawing of one of tJitfc mufical reeds, in Captain Cooi^'s Vopgc, Vol.
p. 221. Plate XXL

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

397

of the left hand, to clofc the left noftril, and blow into
the hole at one end, with the other. The midtUe linger of
the left hand is applied to the lirft hole on the left, and the
fore-finger of the right, to the lowell hole on that lide.
In this manner, though the notes are only three, they
prodvice a plealing, yet fimple, mufic, which they vary
much more than one would think poflible, with fo imper-
fedl an inftrument. Their being accultomed to a mufic
which confifts of fo few notes, is, perhaps, the reafon why
they do not feem to relifli any of ours, which is fo com-
plex. But they can tafte what is more deficient than their
own ; for, we obferved, that they ufed to be well pleafed
with hearing the chant of our two young New Zealanders,
which confided rather in mere ftrength, than in melody
of expreffion.

The weapons, which they make, are clubs of different
forts (in the ornamenting of which they fpend much time),
fpears, and darts. They have alfo bows and arrows ; but
thefe leemed to be defigned only for amufement, fuch as
fhooting at birds, and not for military purpofes. The
flools are about two feet long, but only four or five inches
high, and near four broad, bending downward in the
middle, with four Itrong legs, and circular feet ; the whole
made of one piece of black or brown wood, neatly po-
lilhcd, and fomctimes inlaid with bits of ivory. They alfo
inlay the handles of fly-flaps with ivory, after being neatly
carved ; and they fliape bones into fmall figures of men,
birds, and other things, which muft be very difficult, as
their carving inftrument is only a fhark's tooth.

Yams, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, compofe the greateft
part of their vegetable diet Of their animal food, the chief
articles are hogs, fowls, fifh, and all forts of fliell-fiih; but

the

>777-
July.

398

«777-

.I»iy.

wl (1

7 I

A VOYAGE TO

the lowet people eat rats. The two firft vegetahle articles,
with bread-fruit, ai-e, what may be caJled, the bails of
their food, at dift'erent times of the year, with filii and
lliell-filh ; for hogs, fowls, and turtle, fecm only to be
occalional dainties, referved for their Chiefs. The inter-
vals between the feafons of thefe vegetable produ<ftions
mull be, fometimes, conliderable, as they prepare a fort of
artificial bread from plantains, which they put luider ground
before ripe, and fuft'er them to remain till they ferment,
when they are taken out, and made up into fmall balls ;
but fo four and indifferent, that they often faid our bread
was preferable, though fomewhat murty.

Their food is, generally, (heffed by baking, in the fiunc
manner as at Otaheite ; and they have the art of making,
from different kinds of fruit, feveral diflies, which molt
of us elleemed very good. I never faw them make uie
of any kind of fauce ; nor drink any thing at their meals
but water, or the juice of the cocoa-nut ; for the /:ava
is only their morning draught. I cannot fay, that they
are cleanly either in their cookery, or manner of eating.
The generality of them will lay their vi(5luals upon the
firft leaf they meet with, however dirty it may be ; but
when food is ferved up to tlie Chiefs, it is, commonly,
laid upon green plantain leaves. When the king made a
meal, he was, for the moft part, attended upon by three
or four perfons. One cut large pieces of the joint, or of
the filh ; another divided it into mouthfuls ; and others
ftood by with cocoa-nuts, and whatever ell'e he might
want. I never faw a large company fit down to what we
lliould call a fociable meal, by eating from the fam':^ difli.
The food, be what it will, is always divided into portions,
each to ferve a certain number; thefe portions are again

fubdivided ;

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

399

fubdivided ; fo that one feldom fees above two or three
perfons eatini^ together. The women are not excluded
from eating with the men ; but there are certain ranks or
orders amongft them, that can neither eat nor drink to-
gether. Thia diftindlion begins with the king ; but where
it ends, I cannot fay.

They fcem tc have no fet time for meals ; though it
fliould be obferved, that, during pur ftay amongft them,
their domeftic ceconomy was much difturbed by their con-
ftant attention to us. As far as we could remark, thofe of
the fiipcrior rank, only drink kava in the forenoon, and the
others eat, perhaps, a bit of yam ; but we commonly faw
all of them eat fomething in the afternoon. It is probable
that the pradlice of making a meal in the night is pretty
common, and their reft being thus inteiTupted, they fre-
quently lleep in the day. They go to bed as foon as it is
dark, and rife with the dawn in the morning *.

They are very fond of aflbciating together ; lb that it is
common to find fevcral houfes empty, and the owners of
them convened in fome other one, or, rather, upon a con-
venient fpot in the neighbourhood, where they recreate
themfelves by converfing, and other amufements. Their
private diverfions are chiefly finging, dancing, and mufic
performed by the women. When two or three women ling
in concert, and fnap their fingers, it is called oobai\ but
when there is a greater number, they divide into fcveral
parties, each of which lings on a different key, which makes
a very agreeable mufic, and is called beeva^ or haiva. In the
fame manner, they vary the mufic of their flutes, by play-

>777-
July.

■fe/

* Cantova fays of his iflandcrs, " lis prennent leur repos des que Ic folcil eft couche,
■ et ils fc levent avcc rauiorc," Lcnrci E<iifiantes d Cuileufa, Tom. xv, p. 3; 4..

ing

400

A VOYAGE TO

ing on thofe of a diiicreiit fize ; but their dancing is much
the lame as when they perform publickly. Tlie dancing
of the men (if it is to be called dancing), although it does
not confill much in moving the feet, as wc do, has a thou-
I'and different motions with the hands, to which we are
entire ihangers ; and they ai'e performed with an eafe and
triace which are not to be.deicribed, nor even conceived,
but by thofe who have feen them. But I need add nothing
to what has been already faid on this fubje*5l, in the account
of the incidents that happened during our ftay at the
illands *.

* If, to the copious defcriptions that occur in the preceding pages, of the particular
entertainments exhibited in Hapaee and Tongataboo, we add the general view of the
ufiial amufenients of the inhabitants of thefe iflands, contained in this paragraph, and
compare it with the quotation from the Jefuit's Letters, in a former note (p. 255.), wc
Ihall be ftill more forcibly ftruck with the reafonablenefs of tracing fuch fingularly re-
fcmbling cuftoms to one common fource. The argument, in confirmation of this,
drawn from indentity of language, has been already illuftrated, by obferving the remark-
able coincidence of the name, by which the Chiefs at the Caroline Illands, and thofe at
Hainao, one of the Friendly ones, are dirtinguilhed. But the argument does not reft
on a fingle inllance, though that happens to be a very ftriking one. Another of the
very few fpccimens of the dialefl of the North Pacific Illanders, preferved by father Can-
to\a, furniflies an additional proof. Immediately after the paflage above referred to, he
proceeds thus : " Ce divertiflemcnt s'appelle, en leur langue, timgt-r ifaifil; qui veut dire,
" la plainte des femmes." Lettres Edifianta et Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 315. Now it is
very remarkable, that we learn from Mr. Andcrfon's colle£lion of words, which will
appear in this chapter, that la plaiute des funmei, or, in Englifh, the mournful fong of the
luomrn, which the inhabitants of the Caroline Illands exprefs in their language tangn-
ifi'lfl, would, by thofe of Tongataboo, be cxprelTed tiingee vefmne.

If any one (hould ftill doubt, in fpite of this evidence, it may be recommended to his
confideration, that long feparation, and other caufcs, have introduced greater variations
in the mode of pronouncing thefe two words, at places confeflijdly inhabited by the fame
race, than fubfift in the fpecimen juft given. It appears, from Mr. Anderfon's voca-
bulary, printed in Captain Cook's fccond voyage, that what is pronounced tangec at the
Friendly Iflands, is taee at Otahcite ; and the vifaine of the former, is the ■wahelne of the
latter. "

Whether

t 1

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

Whether their marriages be made lading by any kind
of folemn contradt, we could not determine with precifion ;
but it is certain, that the bulk of the people fatisfied them-
felves with one wife. The Chiefs, however, have, com-
monly, feveral women ^ ; though fome of us were of opi-
nion, that there was only one that was looked upon as the
miftrefs of the family.

As female chaftity, at firft fight, feemed to be held in
no great eftimation, w^e expe<5led to have found frequent
breaches of their conjugal fidelity ; but we did tliem great
injuftice. I do not know that a fmgle inftance happened
during our whole ftay +. Neither are thofe of the better
fort, that are unmarried, more free of their favours. It is
true, there was no want of thofe of a different character ;
and, perhaps, fuch are more frequently met with here, in
proportion to the number of people, than in many other
countries. But it appeared to me, that the moft, if not all
of them, were of the loweft clals ; and fuch of them as per-
mitted familiarities to our people, were prollitutes by pro-
feflion.

Nothing can be a greater proof of the humanity of thefc
people, than the concern they fliew for the dead |. To ufe
a common expreflion, their mourning is not in words but
deeds. For, befides the tooge mentioned before, and burnt
circles and fears, they beat the teeth with ilones, ftrike a

* Caiitova fays of his Caroline idandcrs, " La pluralite des femmes eft non feulement
" pcrmife a tous ces infulaires, elle eft encore unc marque d'honncur ct dc diftinftion.
" Le Tamole de I'ifle d'Huogoleu en a neuf." Luttns Edifianta et Qtrit-uf.s, 'I'oni. xv.
p. 310.

t At the Caroline inands, " lis ont horrcur dc I'adultcre, conimc d'une grand
" pichi." Ih'td. Tom. xv. p. 310.

X How the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands exprefs their grief 011 fuch occafions
may be fecn, Ibid. Tom. xv. p. 308.

Vol. I. 3 F Hiark's

401

>777-

July-

. M

402 AVOYAGETO

fliark's tooth into the head until the blood flows in dreams,
and thnirt Ipcars into the inner part of the thigh, into their
Tides below the arm-pits, and through the cheeks into the
mouth. All thefe operations convey an idea of fuch ri-
gorous difcij)line, as muft require either an uncommon
di v^ree of affection, or the groflTell fuperltition, to exadt.
I will not fay, that the lalt has no (hare in it ; for, fome-
times, it is fo univerful, that many could not have any
knowledge of the perfon for whom the concern is ex-
prelFcd. Thus we faw the people of Tongataboo mourn-
ing the death of a Chief at Vavaoo; and other fimilar
inllunces occurred during our ftay. It fliould be obferved,
however, that the more painful operations are only prac-
tifed on account of the death of thofe moft nearly con-
ne(fted with the mourners. When a perfon dies, he is
buried, after being wrapped up in mats and cloth, much
after our manner. The Chiefs feem to have the Jiatookas
appropriated to them as their burial-places ; but the com-
mon people are interred in no particular fix)t*. What
part of the mourning ceremony follows, immediately after,
is uncertain ; but, that there is fomething befides the ge-
neral one, which is continued for a confiderable length
of time, we could infer, from being informed, that the
funeral of Mareewagee's wife, as mentioned before, was to
be attended with ceremonies that were to laft five days ;
and in which all the principal people were to commemo-
rate her.

• Cantova's account of the pradlice of the Caroline Iflands is as follows : " Lorfqu'il
" mcurt quclque perfonne d'un rang diftingue, ou qui leur eft chere par d'autrcs endroits,
" fes obfcques fe font avcc pompc. II y en a qui renferment le corps dii dcfundl dans
" un petit edifice de pierre, qu'ils gardent au-dedans de leur maifons. D'autres Ics
" enterrent loin dc leurs habiutions." Lettrn EdifiarUti d Ciirieufrs, Tom. xv.
p. 308, 309.

Their

THE PACIFIC OCEaN.

403

Their lon^ and general mourning, proves that they con-
fidcr death as a very great evil. And this is confirmed by
% very odd cuftom which they pra(5life to avert it. When 1
firft vifited thefe illands, during my laft voyage, I obfcrved
that m?ny of the inhabitants had one or both of their little
fingers cut off; and we covdd not then receive any fatisfac-
tory account of the reafon of this mutilation *. But we
now learned, that this operation is performed when they
labour under fome grie\ ous difeafe, and think themfelves
in danger of dying. They fuppofe, that the Deity will ac-
cept of the little finger, as a fort of facrifice efficacious
enough to procure the recovery of their health. They cut
it off with one of their ftone hatchets. There was fcarcely
one in ten of them whom we did not find thus mutilated,
in one or both hands; which has a difagreeable etfe<ft;
efpecialiy as they fometimes cut fo clofe, that they encroach
upon the bone of the hand which joins to the amputated
finger f.

From the rigid feverity with which fome of thefe mourn-
ing and religious ceremonies are executed, one would ex-
pedt to find, that they meant thereby to Iccurc to them-
felves felicity beyond the grave ; but their principal objedl
relates to things merely temporal. For they fcem to have
little conception of future punifhment for faidts com-
mitted in this life. They believe, however, that they arc
jurtly puniflied upon earth ; and, confequently, ufe every
method to render their divinities propitious. The Supreme
Author of moft things they call Kallafootonga ; who, they

* See Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 222.

\ It may be proper to mention here, on the authority of Captain King, that it is com-
mon tor the mferior people to cut ofFa joint of their little finger, on account of the fick-
ncfs of the Chiefs to whom they belong.

3 F 2 lay.

t777-
July.

404

VOYAGE TO

if- i'.J'

1* ► i

f 5

l.v

fay, is n female, refuUni; in the flcy, and dire^intr the
thunder, wind, rain ; and, in general, all the changes of
weather. They believe, that when (he is angry with
them, the produdlions of the earth arc blailcd ; that many
thin^;> are deftroyed by lightning ; and that they them-
felves are afflidled with ficknefs and death, as well as their
hogs and other animals. When this anger abates, they
fuppofe that every thing is rcltorcd to its natural order ;
and it fliould feem, that they have a great reliance on the
efficacy of their endeavours to appeafu their offended di-
vinity. They alfo admit a plurality of deities, though
all inferior to Kallafooton^qa. Amongft them, they men-
tion Toofooa-boolootooy God of the clouds and fog ; Tir/A?-
teboo^ and fome others, refiding in the heavens. The firll
in rank and power, who has the government of the fea,
and its produvflions, is called Futtafaihe, or, as it was fome-
times pronounced, Footafooa ; who, they fay, is a male,
and has for his wife Fykava kajeea : and here, as in hea-
ven, there are feveral inferior potentates, fuch as Fabaa
fonooa, Tareenva, Matt aba, Evaroo, and others. The fame
religious fyftem, however, does not extend all over the
duller of the Friendly Ifles ; for the fupreme God of
Hapaeey for inftance, is called Alo Alo ; and other ifles have
two or three, of different names. But their notions of the
power, and other attributes of thefe beings, are fo very
abfurd, that they fuppofe they have no farther concern
with them after death.

They have, however, very proper fentimcnts about the
immateriality and the immortality of the foul. They call
it life, the living principle, or, what is more agreeable to
their notions of it, an Otooa ; that is, a divinity, or invifible
being. They fay, that immediately uj)on death, the fouls

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

of their Chiefs leparate from their bodies, and go to a place
called Booiootoo ; the Chief, or god, of which, is Goolebo.
This Goolebo feems to be a perfonification of death ; for they
ul'ed to fay to iis, " You, and the men of F'ccjce (by this
" jundlion meaning to pay a compliment, cxpreflive of
*' their confelfion of our fuperiority over themfclves), arc
" alfo fubjedt to the power and dominion of Goolebo^ His
country, the general receptacle of the dead, according to
their mythology, was never feen by any perfon ; and yet,
it feems, they know that it lies to the Weftward of 1< cejee ;
and that they who are once tranl\x ted thither, li/e for
ever; or, to ufe their own expreflion, are not iubjedl to
death again ; but feall upon all the favourite 'roduils of
their own country, with which this c /erlaft ' .g abod^ is
fuppofed to abound. As to the fouls of the lower f< ••■ of
people, they undergo a fort of tranfmigration ; or, \. ihey
fay, are eat by a bird called loata^ which wr ". s upon their
graves for that purpofe.

I think I may venture to affert, that they do not worfhip
any thing that is the work of their own hands, or any vi-
fible part of the creation. They do not make offerings of
hogs, tlogs, and fruit, as at Otaheite, unlefs it be emblem-
atically ; for their mora'ts were perfedlly free from every
thing of the kind. But that they offer real human facri-
fices, is, with me, beyond a doubt. Their morats, oxjiatookas
(for they are called by both names, but moftly by the
latter), are, as at Otaheite, and many other parts of the
world, burying-grounds, and v'-'^s of worfliip; though
fome of them feemed to be only appropriated to the firrt
purpofe ; but thefe were fmall, and, in every other refpe»5t,
inferior to the others.

Of the nature of their government, we know no more than

the

JIT

4o6

A VOYAGE TO

1777"
J«ly.

\i '

5..' , '

r 2 ' f.

the general outline. A fubordination is eftablilhed among
them, that refembles the feudal fyftem of our progenitors
in Europe. But of its fubdivifions, of the conftituent parts,
and in what manner they are connedled, fo as to form a
body politic, I confefs myfelf totally ignorant. Some of
them told us, that the power of the king is unlimited, and
that the life and property of the fubjedi is at his difpofal.
But the few circumftances that fell under oiu* obfervation,
rather contradiiled than confirmed the idea of a defpotic
government. Mareewagee, old T(K)bou, and Feenou, actled
each like petty fovereigns, and frequently thwarted the mea-
fures of the king ; of which he often complained. Neither
was his court more fplendid than thofe of the two firil, who
are the moll powerful Chiefs in the iflands ; and, next to
them, Feenou, Mareewagee's fon, teemed to ftand higheft
in authority. But, however independent on the defpotic
power of the king the great men may be, we faw inllances
enough to prove, that the lower order of people have no
property, nor fafety for their perfons, but at the will of the
Chiefs to whom they refpedtively belong.

Tongataboo is divided into many diftridls; of above thirty
of which we learned the names. Each of thefe has its par-
ticular Chief, who decides differences, and diftributes jurtice
within his own diftri<5t. But we could not form any latis-
fadtory judgment about the extent of their power in gene-
ral, or their mode of proiK)rtioning punifliments to crimes.
Moll of thefe Chiefs have pofleUions in other illands, from
whence they draw fupplies. At leall, we know this is lb
with refpedl to the king, who, at certai' ellabliflied times,
receives the produ»fl of his diltant domains at Tongataboo;
which is not only the principal place of his refulence, but,
fcemingly, of all the people of confcqucnce amongft thefe
3 illcs.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

407

ifles. Its inhabitants, in common converfation, call it the
Land of Chiefs ; while the fubordinate ifles are diftinguifli-
ed by the appellation of Lands of Servants.

Thcfe Chiefs are, by the people, ftyled not only Lords of
the Earth, but of the Sun and Sky ; and the king's family
alTume the name of Futtafaihe, from the God fo called, who
is probably their tutelary patron, and perhaps their com-
mon anceltor. The fovereign's peculiar earthly title is,
however, limply T'ooee T'onga.

There is a decorum obferved in the prefence of their
principal men, and particularly of their king, that is truly
admirable. Whenever he fits down, whether it be in an
houle, or without, all the attendants feat themfelves, at the
fame tiir 2, in a femicircle before him; leaving always a
convenient fpace between him and them, into which no
one attempts to come, unlefs he has fome panicular bufi-
nefs. Neither is any o:ie allowed to pafs, or fit, behind him,
nor even near him, without his order or permifllon ; fo that
our having been indulged with this privilege, was a figni-
ficant proof of the great refpedl that was paid us. When
any one wants to fpeak with the king, he advances and fits
down before him ; delivers what he has to fay in a few
words; and, having received his anfwer, retires again to
the circle. But if the king fpeaks to any one, that perfon
anfwers from his feat, unlefs he is to receive ibme order ; in
which cafe he gets up from his place,, and fits down before
the Chief with his legs acrofs ; which is a pofture to which
they are fo much accufl:omed, that any other mode of fit-
ting is difagreeable to them *. To fpeak to the king fiand-
i;ig, woidd be accounted here as a linking mark of rudenefs,

* This is peculiar to the men ; the women always fitting with both legs thrown a
little on one fide. We owe this remark to Captain King.

>777-
July.

4o3

A VOYAGE TO

July.

ii f

^J I

as it woiild be, with us, for one to fit down and put on his
hat, when he addrefles himfelf to his fuperior, and that
fuperior on his feet, ahd uncovered.

It does not, indeed, appear, that any of the mod civil-
ized nations, have ever exceeded this people, in the great
order obferved, on all occafions ; in ready compliance with
the commands of their Chiefs ; and in the harmony that
fubfifts throughout all ranks, and unites them, as if they
were all one man, informed with, and dircdted by, the fame
principle. Such a behaviour is remarkably obvious, when-
ever it is requifite that their Chiefs fliould harangiie any
body of them colledlcd together, which is frequently done.
The moft profound filence and attention is obferved during
the harangue, even to a much greater degree than is prac-
tifed amongft us, on the rnoil interefting and ferious deli-
berations of our moft reipedlable afTemblies. And, what-
ever might have been the fubjedt of the fpcech delivered,
we never faw an inftance, when any individual prefent,
ihewed ligns of his being difpleafed, or that indicated the
leaft inclination to difpute the declared will of a per<r>a who
Viad a right to command. Nay, fuch is the force oi thefe
verbal laws, as I may call them, that I have feen one of
their Chiefs exprefs his being aftoniflied, at a perf jn's bav-
in a6ted contrary to fuch orders ; though it appeared, that
the poor man could not poilibly have been informed, in
time, to have obferved them •• .

Though fomc of the more potent CViiefs my vie with the
king in ix)int of adtual polTellions, they 1^x11 very fliort in
rank, and in certain , larks of ref])eil:, which the collecftive

;.' \

* Caiitova gives us the fame account of the profound fubniiflion of the Caroline Ifland-
ers, to the orders of the Tamok. " lis re^oivent fes ordres avec Ic plus profond refpeft.
" Ses parolci font autant d'oraclcs, qu'on revere." Lettres Edifianlcs (t Qirieufet, Tom. xv.
p. 312.

body

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

409

body have agreed to pay the monarch. It is a particular
privilege annexed to his ibvereignty, not to be pun(5lured,
nor circumciled, as all his fubjedts are. Whenever he
walks out, every one whom he meets muft fit down till he
has paired. No one is allowed to be over his head ; on the
contrary, all muft come under his feet ; for there cannot
be a greater outward mark of fubmiffion, than that which
is paid to the fovereign, and other great people of thele
iflands, by their inferiors. The method is this ; the peribn
who is to pay obeifance, fquats down before the Chief,
and lx)ws the head to the fole of his foot ; which, when he
fits, is fo placed, that it can be eafily come at ; and, having
tapped, or touched it with the under and upper fide of the
fingers of both hands, he rifes up, and retires. It fhould
feem, that the king cannot refufe any one who choofes to
pay him this homage, which is called nioe moea ; for the
common people would freqviently take it into their heads to
do it when he was walking ; and he was always obliged to
ftop, and hold up one of his feet behind him, till they had
performed the ceremony. This, to a heavy unwieldy man,
like Poulaho, muft be attended with fome trouble and pain ;
and I have, fometimes, feen him make a run, though very
unable, to get out of the way, or to reach a place where he
might conveniently fit down. The hands, after this appli-
cation of them to the Chief's feet, are, in fome cafes, ren-
dered ufelefs for a time; for, until they be walhed, they
muft not touch any kind of food. This interdiction, in a
country where water is fo fcarce, would feem to be attend-
ed with fome inconvenience ; but they are never at a lofs
for a fuccedaneum ; and a piece of any juicy plant, which
they can eafily procure immediately, being rubbed upon
them, this ferves for the purpoie of purification, as well as
Vol. I. 3 G walhing

July.

410

A VOYAGE TO

177;-

July.

•'n

U I

\U-

wafliing them with water. When the hands arc in tl\is ft ate,
they call it t^l^oo rema. T'ciboo, in general, fignifies forbid-
den ; and rema is their word for hand.

When the taboo is incurred, by paying obeifancc to a great

perfonage, it is thus eafdy waflied off. But, in fome other

cafes, it muft neceffarily continue for a certain time. We

have frequently feen w^omen, who have been taboo rema^ fed

by others. At the expiration of the time, the interdicted

perfon waflies herfelf in one of their baths, which are dirty

holes, for the molt part, of brackilh water. She then waits

upon the king, and, after making her obeifance in the ulual

way, lays hold of his foot and applies it to her brealt,

fhoulders, and other parts of her body. He then embraces

her on each flioulder ; after which flie retires, purified from

her uncleannefs. I do not knov/ that it is always neceflary

to come to tli^ king for this purpofe ; though Omai aflured

me it was. If this be io^ it may be one reafon why he is,

for the molt part, travelling from illand to ifland. I faw

this ceremony performed, by him, two or three times ; and

once by Feenou, to one of his own women ; but as Omai

was not then with me, I could not alk the occafion.

Taboo, as I have before obferved, is a word of an extenfive
fignification. Human facrifices are called tangata taboa ; and
when any thing is forbidden to be cat, or made ufe of, they
fay, that it is taboo. They tell vis, that, if the king fliould
happen to go into a houfe belonging to a fvd)je(St, that
houfe wovild be taboo, and could never more be inhabited by
the owner ; lb that, wherever he travels, there are particu-
lar houfes for his reception. Old Ttx)bou, at this time,
prefided over the taboo ; that is, if Omai comprehended the
matter rightly, he and his deputies infpeited all the pro-
duce of the ifland ; taking care that every man fliould cul-
I tivatc

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

41 1

tivate and plant his quota ; and ordering what Ihould be
cat, and what not. By this wile regulation, they efFedlually
guard againft a famine ; a fufficient quantity of ground is
employed in railing provilions ; and every article, thus
raifed, is fecured from unneceflary wafte.

Ey another prudent regulation, in their government,
they have an officer over the police ; or Ibmething like it.
This department, when we were amongft them, was admi-
niftered by Feenou ; whofe bulinels, we were told, it was, to
punifh all offenders, whether againll the ftate, or againlt in-
dividuals. He was alfo Generaliffimo, and commanded the
warriors, when called out upon fervice ; but, by all ac-
counts, this is very leldom. The king, freqviently, took
fome pains to inform us of Feenou's office ; and, among
other things, told us, that if he himfelf fhotild become a bad
man, Feenou would kill him. What I underitood, by this
expreffion of being a bad man, was, that, if he did not go-
vern according to law, or cuftom, Feenou would be ordered,
by the other great men, or by the people at large, to put
him to death. There Ihoxild feem to be no doubt, that a
Sovereign, thus liable to be controuled, and punilhed for an
abufe of power, cannot be called a defpotic monarch.

When we conlider the number of illands that compofe
this little ftate, and the diftance at which Ibme of them lie
from the feat of government, attempts to throw off the
yoke, and to acquire independency, it IhoTild feem, might
be apprehended. But they tell us, that this never happens.
One reafon why they are not thus dil v.bed, by domcftic
(Quarrels, may be this : That all the powerful Chiefs, as we
have already mentioned, relide at Tongataboo. They alio
fccure the dependence of the other iflands, by the celerity
of their operation& , tor if, at anv time, a troublefome and

3 C 2 popular

'777-
July.

412

A VOYAGE TO

% I

■i ^

popular man fliouH ftart up, in any of them, Feenou, or
whoever holds his office, is i^nmediately difpatched thitlier
to kill him. By this means, they crafh a rebellion in its
very infancy. '

The orders, or claflTes, amongfl their Chiefs, or rhofe Vvho
call themfelves fuch, feemed to be almort as numerous .^
amongft us; but there are few, in comp.rifon, th't are
lonls of large diftridls of terrilory ; the reit holding their
lands under thofe principal barons, as they may be cr'ied.
I WTO,, indeed, told, thrt when a man of property dies,
evcj V t'lJne he leaves belundhini falls to the kinj;; but that
it is ufual to gj •? it to the eldert fon of the deceafed, with
an obligation to j?rake a proviiion, out of it, for the reft of
the children, it is i-.f^t the cuftotn here? as at Otaheite, for
the fon, the moment he is born, to take from the father the
horoage aiu! title ; but he iucceeds to them, at his dcceafe ;
fo that their form of government is not only monarchical,
bxit hereditary.

The order of fucceffion to the crown, has not been of late
interrupted ; for we know, from a particular circumftance,
that the Futtafaihes (Poulaho being only an addition, to dif-
tingailh the king from the reit of the family) have reign-
ed, in a dire<5l line, for, at leaft, one hundred and thirty-five
years. Upon inquiring, whether any account ha.l been
preferved amongft them, of the arrival of Tafman's ftiips,
we found, that this hiltory had been handed down to them,
from their anceftors, v/ith an accuracy which marks, that
oral tradition may fometimes be depended upon. For they
deli ribcd the two fliips, as refembling ours ; mentioning
the place where they had anchored; their having ftaid but
•V few days ; and their moving from that l^ation to Anna-
iiiooka., And, by way of informing us how long ago this

had

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

4^3

had happened, they told us the name of the Futtafaihe who
was then king, and of thofe who had fucceeded, down to
Poulaho, who is the fifth fince that perio<l ; the firft being
an old man, at the time of the arrival of the fhips.
, From what has been faid of the prefent king, it would be
natural to fuppofe, that he had the higheft rank of any per-
fon in the iflands. Bvit, to our great furprize, we found it
is not fo; for Latoolibooloo, the perfon who was pointed out
to me as king, when I firft vifited Tongataboo, and three
women, are, in fome refpedts, fuperior to Poulaho himfelf.
On our inquiring, who thefe extraordinary perfonages were,
whom they diftinguifli by the name and title of 'Tammaba'^}
we were told, that the late king, Poulaho's father, had a
fifter of equal rank, and elder than himielf : that flie, by a
man who came from the ifland of Fc^jee, had a fon and
two daughters ; and that thefe three perfons, as well as
their mother, rank above Futtafaihe the king. We endea-
voured, in vain, to trace the reafon of this Angular pre-
eminence of the Tammahas'^ for we could learn nothing
befides this account of their pedigree. The mother, and
one of the daughters, called Tooeela-kaipa, live at Vavaoo.
Latoolibooloo, the fon, and the other daughter, whofe name
is Moungoula-kaipa, refule at Tongataboo. The latter, is
the woman who is mentioned to have dined with me on the
2ift of June. This gave occafion to our difcovcring her fu-
periority over the king, who would not eat in her prcfence,
though file made no fcruple to do fo before him, and re-
ceived from him the cuftomary obeifance, by touching her
foot. We never had an opportunity of feeing him pay this

* The reader need not be reminded that lamoha^ which fignifies a Chief, in the dia-
led of HaiTiuO, and Tammaha^ become the fame word, by the change of a fmgle letter, the
articulation of v'hich is not \ ery ftrongly marked-
mark

I777'
July.

414

•777-
lulv.

k ^^^

A VOYAGE TO

mark of refpedl to Latoolibooloo ; but we have obfcrved
him leave off eating, and have his victuals put afide, when
the latter came into the fame houfe. Latoolibooloo alfumcd
the privilege of taking any thing from the people, even if
it belonged to the king ; and yet, in the ceremony caiittl
Natcbe, he aflillcd only in the fame manner as the other
principal men. He was looked iiiwn, by his countiymen,
as a madman ; and many of his adlions feemed to confirm
this judgment. At Eooa, they Ihewed me a good deal of
land, faid to belong to him ; and I faw there a fon of his,
a child, whom they diifinguiflied by the I'um.c title as his
father. Tlie fon of the greatell: Prince in Europe could
not be more humoured and carelfcd than this little -Tain-"
niaha was.

The language of the Friendly Illands, has the grcateft
affinity imaginable to that of New Zealand, of Watccoo,
and Mangeea ; and, confequently, to that of Otaheite, unit
the Society Illands. There are alfo many of their words
the fame with thofe ufed by the natives of Cocos llland, as
appears from the vocabulary c(ille6led there by Le Maire
and Schouten ■•'. The mode of pronunciation differs, indeed,
confiderably, in many inftances, from that both of New

• See this vocabulary, at the end of Vol. ii. of Dalryrnplc's CoUetftiori of Voyage^,
And yet, though Tafinan's people ufcd the words of this vocabulary, iji fpeakiiig j.
the natives of Tongataboo (his AmflLTdam), we are told, in the accounts of his voyage,
that they did not undcrftand one i;K)ther. A circumftancc worth obferving, as it
(hews how cautious we fhould be, upon the fcanty evidence afforded by fuch traiifient
vifjH as Tafinan's, and, indeed, as thofe of mod of the fubfcquent navigators of the Pa-
cific Ocean, to found any argument about the affinity, or want of affinity, of the languages
of the different iflands. No one, now, will venture to fay, that .1 Cocos man, and one
of Tongataboo, could not imderftand each other. Some of the words of Horn Ifland,
another of Schouten's diftovtries, alfo belong to the dialedt of F ongataboo. See DaU
rjmpUy as above.

Zealand,

fiv-j

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

Zealand, and Otaheitc ; but, ftill, a great number of words
are either exadtly the fame, or fo Uttle changed, that their
common original may be fatisfaiSlorily traced. The lan-
guage, as fpoken at the Friendly Iflands, is fufficiently co-
pious, for all the ideas of the people ; and we had many
proofs of its being eafily adapted to all mufical purpofes,
both in fong and in recitative ; befides being harmonious
enough in common converfation. Its component parts, as
far as our fcanty acquaintance with it enabled us to judge,
are not numerous ; and, in fome of its rules, it agrees
with other known languages. As, for inftance, we could
ealily difcern the ibveral degrees of comparifon, as ufed
in the Latin ; but none of the infledlions of noims and
verbs.

We were able to collect feveral hundreds of the words ;
and, amongft thefe, are terms that exprefs nimibers as far
as a hundred thovifand ; beyond which they never would
reckon.. It is probable, indeed, that they are not able to go
farther ; for, after having got thus far, we obferved, that
they commonly ufed a word which expreffes an indefinite
number. A fliort fpecimen, fele<5led from the i.rger voca-
bulary, is here inferted, with the correfponding woirl , of
the fame fignification, as ufed at Otaheite, on the oppofite
column ; which, while it will give, as we may fay, ocular
demonftration of their being dialedls of the fame language,
will, at the fame time, point o it the particular letters, by
the infertion, omillion, or alteration of which, the varia-
tions of the two dialects, from each other, have been
effedled.

It muftbe obferved, however, that our vr cabiilaries, of
this fort, rrtuft ncceffarily be liable to great m^I-ti.ices. The
ideas of tfiofc, from whom we were to learn the words,

were

4^5

777-

July.

t^m

4i6

[i' '

\r -^i

A VOYAGE TO

were lb different from oxir^, that it was cUfficult to fix them
to the objedl of iiuiuiry. Or. f this cotild be obtained, to
learn an unknown topo;n ^ tio' ) . n inllrudlor who (Ud not
know a iingle word of ^ny language that his fcholar was
tonverfant with, could not promile to produce much. But
even, when thefe difficulties were furmounted, there Itill
remained a fruitful fource of miftake. I mean, inaccuracy
in catching, exadly, the true found ^f a :,u^o^ to nhich
our ears had never been accuftomed, from perfons whole
motle of proiumciation was, in general, fo indiftindl, that it
ieldom hai)]Hnied that any two of us, in writing down the
fame word, ^/om the fame morrh, made ufe of the fame
vowels, in rcprefenting it. Nay, we even, very commonly,
differed about confonants, the founds of which are leall lia-
ble to ambiguity. Befides all this, we found, by experience,
that wc had been 1. I into llrange corruptions of fome of the
mort common words, either from the natives endeavouring
to imitate us, or from our having mifunderftood them.
Thus, cbceto was univerfally ufeil by us, to exprefs a thief,
though totally different from the real word, in the language
of Tongataboo. The mi Hake arofe from a prior one, into
which we had run, when at New Zealand. For tl ough the
word that fignifies thief there, be abfolutcly the fame that
belongs to the diale(5l of the Friendly Illands (being kaeehaa
at both places), yet, by fome blunder, wc had ufed the word
teetCy lirit at New Zealand, and, afterw id, at Tongataboo,
on our arrival there. The natives, endeavoviring to imitate
us, as nearly as they coul(', and fo fabricating the word
ebeetOy tiiis, by a complication of milLikes, was adopted by
us as their own. Great care has been taken to make the
following table as corredt as ix>flible :

Englifli.

I A',

THE

PACIFIC

O.C E AN.

Englifli.

Friendly I/lands.

Otabeite.

'The fun,

Ehia,

Eraa.

Fire,

Eafoi,

Eahoi.

thunder.

Fatoorc,

Patcere.

Rain,

Ooha,

Eooa.

The wind.

Matan^tc,

Mataee.

Warm,

Mafanna,

Mahanna.

The clouds.

Ao,

Eao.

Land,

Fonooa,

Fenooa.

Water,

Avy,

Evy.

SUep,

Mohc,

Moe.

A man.

Tangata,

Taata.

A zvoman.

Vefaine,

Waheine.

Ayounq- girl.

Taheine,

Toonea.

Afervant, or per/on o/)

Toutoii, or teou

mean ratiK,

The dawn, or day-break. Alio,

Aoii.

T'he hair.

Fooroo,

Eroroo.

the tongue, '

Elelo,

Erero.

the ear.

Tarcenga,

Tareea.

the beard.

Koomooj

Ooma.

thefea.

Tahec,

Taee.

A boat, or canoe,

Wakka,

Evaa.

Black,

Oole,

Ere.

Red,

Goola, ^

Oora, oora.

A. lance, ox f pear,

Tao,

Tao.

A parent.

Motooa,

Madooa.

What is that f

Kohaeea ?

Yahaeea ?

to holdfajl.

Amou,

Moi!.

to wipe, or clean
thing.

anvl ^^
■ VHoro,

liovoee.

417

«777-
July.

Vol. L

3 II

Englifli.

A VOYAGE TO

Enqlifli. Friendly IJlands.

To rife upi Etoo,
To cr\yOY/hed tecirSi Tangec,

To eat-, or cheWi Eky,

i?j, Ai,

No, Kaee,

Touy Koc,

/, Oil,

Ten, Ongofooroo,

Otabelte.
Atoo.
Taee.
Ey.
Ai.
Aee.
Oe.
Won.
Ahooroo.

~'ii

Having now concluded my remarks on thefe iflands and
people, I fliall take my final leave of them, after giving
fome account of the allronomical and nautical obfervations
that were made during our ftay.

And, firft, I mull take notice, that the difference of lon-
gitude, between Annamooka and Tongataboo, is Ibmewhat
lefs than was marked in the chart and narrative of my laft
voyage. This error might eafily arife, as the longitude of
each was then found A\ithout any connexion with the
other. But, now, the diltance between them is determined
to a degree of precifion, that excludes all poflibility of
miltake ; which the following table will illuftrate :

The latitude of the obfcrvatory at
Tongataboo, b-y the mean of fe-
veral obfervations, _ - -

The longitude, by the mean of one
hundred and thirty-one fets of
lunar obfervations, amounting to
above a tboufand oblcr\cd dif-
tances, between the moon, fun,

and Ifars,

2i" 8' 19" South.

- 184 55 iSEaft.

The

^ '■

THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

The (Uffcrcncc of longitude, made
by the tinie-keei)er, between the
above obfervatory, and that at
Annamooka, - - - o'

Hence, the longitude of Annamo-
ka is - - - - 185

By the time
keeper

Its latitude

16'

18 Eaft.

ime- C (Jreenwich rate, - 186 12 27
it is, I New Zealand rate, 184 37 o

419

20 15

N. B. The obfervatory at Tongataboo was near the
middle of the North fide of the iiland ; and that at Anna-
mooka, on its Weil fide ; but the tliart will elucidate this.

The time-keeper was too How for mean time at Green-
wich, on the firft of July at noon, by la' 34" 33',2; and
her daily ivut, .11 iiiui time, was lofing, on meantime,
l'>7^3/'^^' ^^-^Y' This rate will now be ufed for finding the
longitude by the time-keeper; and 184° 55' 18", or 12" 19"
4i',2, will be taken as the true longitude of Tongataboo,
Eall from Clreen^ ich.

By the mean of feveral obfervations, the South end of the
needle was found to dip

T-cfooga, one of the Hapaec iflands, '^6^ 55'
Tongataboo - - - 39 if-

The variation of the compafs was found to be

Annamooka, on board,
Anchor off Kotoo, between 1
Annamooka and Hapaee, J
Anchor oif Lcfooga,
Tongataboo, on board,
.Ditto, on lliore,

3 H 2

- 8^

30' 31-

- 8

12 291-

II 40

44 5i-

12 58

I can

42G

'777
July.

A VOYAGE TO

I can aflign no reafon why the variation is fo much lefs
at, and near, Annamooka, than at either of the other two
places. I can only fay, that there is no fault in the ob-
fervations ; and that the variation ought to be more at An-
namooka than the above, as it has been found to be fo to
the Northward, Southward, Eaftward, and Weftward of it»
But difagreements in the variation, greater than this, even
in the fame needle, have been often obferved. And I Ihould
not have taken notice of this inllance, but from a belief
that the caufe, whatever it is, exifts in the place, and not
hi the needles ; for Mr. Bayly fo\md the fame, or rather
more difference.

The tides are more confiderable at thefe iflands, than at
any other of my difcoverics in this ocean, that lie within
the tropirs. At \nnamooka it is high water, on the
full and change days, nearly ni- fix o'clock, and the tide
rifes and falls there, ui^on a perjiendicxilar, about fix feet.
In the harbour of Tongataboo, it is high water, on the
ftUl and change days, at fifty minutes paft fix. The tide
rifes and falls, on thofe days, four feet nine inches ; and
three feet fix inches at the Quadratures. In the channels
between the iflands, which lie in this harbour, it flows near
tide and half tide ; that is, the flood contimies to run up
near three hours, after it is high water by the fliore ; and
the ebb continues to run down, after it is flood by the
fliore. It is only in thefe channels, and in a few other
places near the fhorcs, that the motion of the water or
tide is perceiveable ; fo that I can only guefs at the quarter-
from which the flood comes. In the road of Annamooka,,
it fets Weil South Weft, and the ebb the contrary ; but it
falls into the liarbour of Tongataboo from the North Weft,

palfe^

THE PACIFIC OCEAN»

pafles through the two narrow channels, on each fide of
Hoolaiva, where it nins with confiderable rapidity, and
then fpends itfelf in the lagoon. The ebb returns the fame
way, and runs with rather greater force. The North Weft
tide is met, at the entrance of the lagoon, by one from the
Eaft ; but this, as I have before obferved, was found to be.
very inconfiderable.

421

>777-
July.

IND OF THE FIRST VOLUME,