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IN THE. YEARS
1806 ^ 180r, and 1809, 1810, ^ 1811 ;
INCLUDING *
AN ACCOUNT OF PASSAGES BETWIXT AIMICA AND BRITAIN/
AND ^ ■■
TRAVELS
THROUGH
VARIOUS PARTS OF GREAT BRITAIN, IRBLAND,
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ILLUSTRATED BY EIGHT MAPf.
BF JOHJSr MEU8H.
VWW«^««MMI^WWWWMW«l
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IN TWO yOI.UM£^.
VOL. I.
• PHILADELPmA,
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,
And for sale by the different Book«eUen in the United States^
Andlqr
THOMAS & GEORGE PALMER, ^
Agents for the Author;
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'"W?-
DISTRUB OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wst:
/>-^ Bb it rHI^^bkbd, That on the twelfth day of October, in
(t s\ the thirty .leveM year of the Independence of the United States
' '/ of America, A. D. 1813,
'"^ ' Joitir MkL)*R*
of the said district, hath deposited in thh office the title of a book, the
light whereof he claims as author, in the words following, to wit :
Travebi i« tjtn^ United 9t4tes of America, \» the ve||ni 1806^ ^fQf, a^sd
I'M, 1810, & 1811 ; including an Account of Pusages betwixt Ame*
rica and Britain, and Travels ^rough various parts of Great Britain,
Ireland, and Upper Canada. Illustrated by eight Maps. By John
Melish. Intwovoju^*; " ' '
In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, intituled,
** An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the cities of
maps, charts, and btt>k% n fhfe autho^itf ^and' priiipri^ors of such copies
during the times therein mentioned.** And also to the act, entitled, •* An
act supplementary to an act, entitled, <' An act for the encouragement of
learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books to the anthora
and proprietors of such comes durii^ the times therein mentioned,'* and
extending the benefit thpsedft* Ike arts dfdesigniiigv'cngraving, and etch<
Ing historical and other prints."
D. CALDWELL,
Cleri efihe Dutrict of Paauyhtnaa.
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1 HE journal of a traveller, when judicioudy
compiled, presents a living picture ot the state of
the cduntry through which he passes; white
the interest that is excited by the nairative grati-
fies the fancy, and combines to render this at once
an entertaining and instructive species of reading.
Hence we find that books of travels have of late
multiplied to a great extent, and are always in
demand with the public. The field is inexhausti-
ble, and must continue so while society is inapm*
gressive state.
' No country presents a more ample field for in-
quiry than the United States of America, and it is
equally important whether we view it in regard td
the inhabitants of America or of Britain. The
former find themselves in possession of an kn-
mense territory, a great part of which is still unoc-
cupied, or very thinly inhabited, so that there is
room for the industry of thousands of generations,
yet unborn ; and, as if by the special ordier of
PBBFACB.
Mi
I*
ii
Provid^ce, mankind are invited into the most
distant regions of the country, by the advantages
of soil and climate, no where exceeded in the
world. Sprung from the only country, which, at
the period of the settlement of America, possessed
any thing like rational freedom, the principles of
the popular brandk of the British constitution came
into practical operation unalloyed by the feudal
system. These principles have since been matur-
ed into the full developement of the representa-
tive system, and are now consolidated and con-
firmed in the habits and manners of the people ;
conferring a degree of freedom to mankind un-
known in Europe, and securing to industry the re-
•
ward of its merit— peace and plenty. Hence the
progress of population— of agriculture— of manu-
factures—of the arts and sciences— and of civili-
zation have been rapid beyond all former example.
The contemplation of the subject is animating to
the mind; it inspires confidence in the future
destinies of the world ; and calls forth sentiments
4>f gratitude to the supreme Disposer of all events.
The inhabitants of Britain behold in America a
people sprung mostly from the same ancestors
with themselves; they speak the same language;
they have the same manners and habits ; and they
'are in a considerable degree governed by the same
laws. Their surplus commodities, and their de-
i
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1^ !r^-
PBBFACB.
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f I
mand for British manufactures, have for a long
period induced an exchange highly favourable to
Britain. From these circumstances, a native of
Britain finds himself a^ home in America, and thou-
sands of industrious families, who have met with
an hospitable reception, and a happy asylum in
the land, can bear ample testimony to the value of
it. The two nations are indeed formed to be
mutually beneficial to each other; and though
Providence, for wise reasons no doubt, has allow-
ed the connection to be cut for the present, yet it is
to be hoped it will be again revived to mutual ad-
vantage, for there is one link in the chain — the
identity of language — which never can be dis-
solved.
To the inhabitants of other countries America
is also important, as it holds out the right hand of
fellowship to all nations, unincumbered by en-
tangling alliances with any; and though many,
who visit the country for commerce or permanent
settlement, will necessarily, for a time, labour
under some disadvantages, arising from a different
language, and other local circumstances, yet they
will find an hospitable reception, and an enjoy-
ment of perfect freedom and security.
When, in consequence of having formed a com-
mercial connection in the United States, in the
year 1806, it became necessary for me to visit that
#
ii
PRBFACE.
country, I had no intention of publishing my
travels, nor did I think that my observations
would have been sufficiently extensive or interest*
ing to be laid before the public. But many cir^
cumstances have concurred to render them more
important than I had originally imagined ; ahd a
second journey to the country led to An investiga'-
tion, the result of which I now consider worthy of
pubUcation. The following brief review will il-
lustrate my motives and design, and it is with
much deference submitted to a candid public.
In the year 1798 I made a voyage to the West
Indies*, during which I laid the foundation of a
series of studies on geography, astronomy, natural
philosopl^, and chemistry, connected with navi-
gation, and the theory of winds, tides, and cur-
rents, in the Atlantic Ocean. My voyage to
America afforded an ample opportunity for resum-
ing these studies, which I did not fail to take ad-
vantage of, and I accordingly kept a journal.
After landing in America I continued my journal ;
and circumstances having occurred which render-
ed it necessary to make a more extended tour, and
to reside longer in the country than I originally
intended, I used every diligence in my power in
:<iM'
* I have delineated the tracks of this voyage on the ch^rt of the
Atlantic Ocean, in order to show the course of vessels generally
between the West Indies and Britain,
'.'.?■>
#
H:
■*?
PRBFACS* 1^ VU
nOiaking observations, and committing them to writ-
ing. My tour was rapid, but my mode of pro-
curii^g inforniation was such as, I trust, will render
even that part of my journal not uninteresting,
p^ticularly to those engaged in commerce.
Previous to leaving Britain, I had perused all
the '^ Travels in America" to which I had access ;
but the plan of none of them pleased me, and I
found many of tbem to contain such effusions of
ignorance and spleen, that I came to the resolu-
tipn to discard the whole, and to take for the
^$19 of my information Arrowsmith's map, and
M)orse^8 Gazetteer of the United States. With
the«e I arrived in the country, and they were my
ecmstant companions in my travels through it.
When I arrived in a new state, I examined it in
lihe map and gazetteer; and the information deriv-
ed from them I confirmed or corrected by personal
bbservation, and information from those to whom
I hid access, I observed the like course with re-
gard to every district, town, village, lake, or river,
which I passed or saw; and having comn\itted the
result to paper, in the shortest manner possible, I
(^mpiled my journal from these notes at my
feisur^* I^ this manner I travelled through part
of Geoi^, South Cdrolina, New York, Rhode
Iskmd, Massachussetts, Connecticut, New Jersey,
Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, District of
PREFACE.
Columbia, Virginia and North Carolina ; so that
I had occasion to see and make observations on all
the Atlantic states, including the principal cities,
rivers, bays, &c. on the eastern coast. ;
Next year I returned to Britain, where I follow-
ed up my plan of making memorandums, princi-
pally by noticing the nature of the American trade,
and the manufactures in Britain calculated for
America. ^ *j
The commercial pursuits in which I had been
engaged having been interrupted, I returned to
America in the year 1809, in order to re-organize
the business, or to wind it up ; and, having oc-
casion to travel extensively through the inferior 6f
Georgia, I extended my remarks, ^md found van
opinion forced upon me, that should the restrictions
on commerce be of long dui^ation, America wovdd
become a manufacturing country, and consequent-
ly would be in a great measure independent o£
Europe. That opinioit received strength and con*
$rmation duringaresidenpe,in New York in 1810,
where I was fruitlessly employed in looking. out
for ioercantile em|)loyment. , ,,
In the early part of the year 1811, having
observed a regency in Britjun without a change of
oouncils, or the removal of the restrictions oa
commerce, I considered that the commercial rela-
tions between America and, Britain wovdd not bjc
.'.'»'»', ■■
:i
PREFACE.
IX
Speedily resumed, and considered it necessary to
look out for other employment. In search of this
I came to the resolution of making a tour into the
interior of the country, and being assisted by some
kind friends, I was enabled to procure such a stock
of valuable information, that I now thought it
would be of importance to collect materials with a
view to the publication of my whole travels, anii
to conduct my inquiries, in my proposed tour, ac-
cordingly. ^
This tour was performed to my entire satisfac-
tion, and the result of my inquiries appeared so
important that the publication was determined on^
provided the plan met public apprpbation. With
a view of ascertaining that, point, a prospectus was
issued, and a subscription list promoted, the result
of which has exceeded my most sanguine expecta-
tions ; for though I was able to take the sense of
but a small portion of the community compara-
tively, I obtained a very large and most respecta-
ble list of subscribers.
Encouraged by this honourable patronage, I
have endeavoured to improve upon my original
plan, and have added a great variety of matter not
contemplated in the outlines, that the work might
embody a complete geography of the United States.
This is the first attempt that has come under my
observation to incorporate a geographical descrip-
VOL. I. b
M
PBEVAOE.
tion of a country in a journal of travels, and I hope
it will not be* without its use to the public. That
it might be as complete as possible, I have noticed
even those states and territories that I did not
travel through, selecting those parts of the narra-
tive for their introduction that I thought would be
most appropriate. In the description of the eastern
states the population is given by the census of
1800, because that of 1810 was not taken when I
travelled through them ; but the statistical table and
census of the United States introduced into the
work, present a view of the population to the
latter period, and I have occasionally added notes
at some of the, cities. The original design con-
templated a pretty large appendix to the second
volume ; but, in consequence of the plan adopted, a
considerable part of the matter appropriated to it
has been incorporated into different parts of the
work, and the remainder has been mostly introdu*
ced into the chapter entitled "United States." t
As I have always considered books of travels
to be very defective when unaccompanied by maps,
I have spared no labour, nor expence, to have a
good set of maps to illustrate this work. They
have been drawn with great care from the best
materials to which I could get access, aided by
much local information; and the engraving has
been executed by tlie first artists in Philadelphia.
'»i
^
if? ■ '
PREFACE.
351
i>
iHi
The maps are eight in number, and at the rate at
which similar engravings, are usually sold, they are
worth more than two-thirds of the price to subscri-
bers for the whole work. At the close of the second
volume I have added an alphabetical index, which
will serve in some respects the place of a gazet-
teer.
In short, no pains nor expence has been spareil
to render the work worthy of public patronage ;
and, with a view of making it acceptable to the
whole public, I have avoided all notice of local
politics, except sometimes a mere casual observa*
tion, net calculated to reflect on any party. On
the relations between this country and Britain I
have been compelled to be more pointed. The
late conduct of those who administer the aftairs of
England has not been of a nature merely specula-
tive. It has involved a moral principle, and af«
fected the best interests of the human race. The
conduct adopted towards the United States in*
fiuenced my own proceedings in a very considera-
ble degree. In conducdng my narrative, it was
absolutely necessary to notice it; and I have done
so agreeably to what I consider the rules of truth.
Many of my readers may differ with me in opinion
on this subject : to such I have merely to remark,
that I have hazarded no opinion lightly, nor with-
out due examination. My information has beea
Xii PREFACK.
drawn from the most correct sources, both in
Britain and America. I have never been connect^*
cd with any political party, and I am conscious of
being free from any bias, but a sacred regard for
truth and justice. Still, however, errors may have
escaped me : I am open to conviction ; and if they
are pointed out, it will give me sincere pleasure to
oorrect them.
To my numerous and very respectable subscri-
bers, and those gentlemen who favoured me with
information, I beg leave to return my most sincere
thanks for their encouragement . and assistance ;
and my thanks are due to the American public
generally, for the kind attention with which I have
been treated during my extensive travels through
the country.
On the other hand, I trust this work will be
found not altogether unworthy of. public attention.
Independent of the casual information collecte4
while I was engaged in other pursuits, it has beea
the result of incessant labour, of both b6dy and
mind, for nearly two years, in which I have had
every aid that books, maps, charts, and verbal in-
formation could give me. If it is found defective,
I have no plea but want of capacity ; I have done
my best. As the facts have been collected with
great care, so they have been communicated with
^ strict adherence to truth, and with a view of pro-
PBSFACB.
m
moting the best interests of mankind, by a sincere
friend, who has no motive for deceiving them.
With these observations I consign the work to the
tribunal of the public, and I shall bow with sub-
mission to their decree.
JOHN MEUStt.
Philadelphia^ October 1^^ \^\2.
1
it^
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
VOLUME I.
■*if^^
•tf^j^,.i»^
It REFACE. Importance of books of travels* . .Importance of the United
States. . .Motives and design of publication. . .Voyage to the West Indies and
studies connected with it . . • Continued in a voyage to America . . . Mode of pro*
curing information. . .Change of circumstances. . .Tour to the western coun-
try. . . Explanation of the plan . . . Engravings . . . General remarics.
INTRODUCTION, page 1. Description of Glasgow. . .Change of coun-
cils in Britain...Probability of a lasting peace with America... Prepare to
embark for that countiy. . .Advice to those about to undertake a sea voyage
• • . Cabin passage . . . Single passengers, families . . . Steerage passage . • . Gene-
ral reiparks to be attended to at sea.
CHAPTER I. p. 9. Depart from Glasgow. . .Paisley. . .Extensive view. • •
River Clyde . . . Greenock . . . Configuration of the country . . . Frequent rains on
the west coast . . . Anecdote . . . Passengers . . . Sail from Greenock . . . Firth of
Clyde... Arran...AilsaCrMg...MuU of Cantyre... Atlantic ocean. ..A fair
wind ... A gale . . . Head winds . . . Bermudas . . . Gulph stream . . . American
coast. . . Savannah river.
CHAPTER II. p. 18. General remarks. . . Occupations at sea. . .Winds in
the Atlantic ...Trade winds. ..Variable winds... Gulph stream. . .Banks of
Newfoundland... Islands of ice... Courses across the Atlantic at different
seasons.
CHAPTER HI' p. 35. Reflections in Savannah . . .Description of the city
...Trade... Country in its vicinity... Articles of commerce... Exports and
imports . . . Savannah river.
CHAPTER IV. p. 29. Journey up the country... Rords...Craekg... An
inn... Remains of a burnt negro... Sultry weather... Taverns... Domestic
manufactures. . .Pine barrens. . .Remarks on health. . .Construction of cities
• ..Draining... Effects of oxygen... A methodilt church... Reflections on
camp meetings... Baptists... Wayqpborough... Mill* and machineiy... Ar-
rive at Louisville.
XVI
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V. p. 39. Deicription of Loidsvittet • .A fever. . .An expeii-
incnt... Kindness of Dr. Powell... SUte-houie... New purchaie... Lottery
of public lands... Reflections thereon... Anniversary of independence... A
toast . . . American character . . . Leave Louisville . . . Richmond springs ... A
poet. . .Set out for Augusta.
CHAPTER VL p. 47. Augusta. . .Country round it. . .Cross Savannah r!*
ver. . .North Carolina. . .Hospitality of the planters. . . A country store. . .Re-
cross Savannah river. . .Signs of a storm. . .Remarkable electric spark*. .Ar*
rive in Savannah. . .Prepare to go to New York.
CHAPTER VII. p. 52. Passage to New York... A fair wind...Gulph
stream. . . A severe gale. . .A calm. . .Clear weather. . .High lands of Never-
sink . . . Sandy Hook . • . Long Island . . . Statcn Island . . . Narrows . . . Quarantine
ground ... Bay and islands . . . Brookl)?! . . . New York. «
CHAPTER VIII. p. 57. ' Description of New York. . .Public buildings. .<:
Markets. . .Schools. . .Trade. . . Police . . . Pnlitim. . . Press. . . Parties. . •Tho-
mas Paine. . .Yellow fever. . .Table of the weather.
CHAPTER IX. p. 67. Journey to the New England states... East river
...Hell>gate...Long Island sound... EUegant views... A courtship. . .Race
. . .Narraganset bay. . .Newport. . .Fine views. . .Beautiful female. . .Another
courtship. . .Providence. . .Geographical arrangement.
CHAPTER X. p. 76. Rhode Island. . .Situation. . .Extent . . , Area. . tjf
face of the country. . .Minerals. . .Soil. . .Climate. . .Settlement and progrest
. . . Civil divisions and population . . . Improvements . . . Towns . . . Roads. . •
Bridges. . .Agriculture and produce. . .Manufactures. . .Commerce. . .State of
society ... Government.
M CHAPTER XL p. 80. A disappointment. . .Effects of it. . .Retaliation. . .
Leave Providence. . .Rule for swearmg. . .Patucket river. . .Cotttm manufiic.
tures. . .Reflections and calculations on the cotton trade. . .Massachuaetts. • .
Dedham . . . Beautiful prospects . . . Boston neck . . . Boston.
CHAPTER XII. p. 89. Discription of Boston . . . Public buildings . . . Mar-
kets . . . Commerce . . . Manufactures . . . Banks . . . Societies . . . Character of the
inhabitants. . .State-house. . .Fine view. . .Bridges. . .Jaunt to Salem. . .Char-
lestown. . .Bunker's hill. . .Mystic river. . .Swamp and floating bridge. . .Lynn
...Expensive turnpike.^. Salem... Wharves and shipping... Reflections...
Return to- Boston. . ,:*v>i ;.,^. ..,_,.<,) i^i,, , _, ■(f^rc
CHAPTER XIII. p. 97. NewHampshire. . .Situation. . .Extent. . . Area
...Face of the country... Mountains... Lakes... Rivers... Minerals... Soil
. . . Climate . . . Settlement and progress ... Civil divisions and population . . ,^
Improvements... Towns... Roads... Bridges... Agriculture and produce...
Manufactures. . .Commerce*. .SUte of society. . .Government
CHAPTER XIV. p. 102. Vermokt.,. Situation . . .Extent. . .Area...
Face of tlie country. . .Mwmtains. . .Rivers. . .Minerals. . .goU. . .CMmatc. , .,
ov B
kM:
aOKTBNTS.
XVU
'4
SttUamtnt and profm** • •Civil dli^ilona and po|mUtion. . .Improvements. . .
Towns • • • Agiicuhiire Mid produoe . . • Maoufactures . . . Commeree . . . State of
society .. . Government
CH A PTKR XV. p. 106. Leave Boston . . . Mail sUf e . . . Company. . • Cam*
bridge . . . General remarlu • « • Weston . . . Beautiful eountry girl . . . Worcester
. . . Brookfteld. . .Western. . . A contrast. < . Chearftil company. . . Handsome
girls. . .Jealousy. . .Springfield. .. Connecticut river. . .Suffield.
CHAPTER XVI. p. 113. Massaohvsbtts... Situation... Extent... Area
• • .Face of the country. . .Waters. . .Minerals. . .Soil and agriculture. . .Cli*
mate. * .Settlement and progress. . .Ciril divisions and population. . .Improve-
ments . . . Towns . . . Roads . . . Bridges . . . Manufactures . . . Commerce . . . State
of society. . .Religion. . .Literature. . .Education. . .Government. . .District
ov Maine. . .Settlement. ..Population. . .Improvements. . .Towns* . .Soil. . .
Commerce. .« State of society. . .Climate.
CHAPTER XVIL p. lift. Windsor. . .Kartfbrd. ..Additional company. . .
Odd notions. . .Handsome giris. . .Fruit. . . Wallingfi>rd. . .Church built by the
produce of onions. ..Blooming girls. . .Elegant country. . .Fine views. . .New*
luven . . . MiUford . . . Housatonic river . . • Stamford.
CHAPTER XVIIL p. 123. Cowvsoticut. . .Situation. . .Extent. . .Area
• . .Face of the country. . .Hills.. .Rivers. . .Minerab. . .Soil. . .Climate. . .Set.
tlement and progress... Civil divisions and population... Improvements...
Towns . . . Roads . . . Agriculture and produce . . . Manufactures . . . Commeroe
. . . State of society . . . Education . . . Government.
CHAPTER XIX. p. 13& Yankee dialect. . .Horsenttk. . . Anecdote. . .Rye
• . .York Island. . .New York. . .Thomas Pune. . . An essay.
CHAPTER XX.p. 133. New Yokx. . .Situation. . .Extent. . . Area. . .Face
of the country^ ». Mountains. . .Lakes. . .Rivers. . .Minerals.. .Springs. . .Soil
ft. Climate... Settlement and progress... Civil divisions and population...
Improvements. . .Cities, towns, and villages. . .Roads. . .Bridges. . .Canals. . .
Agriculture and produce . . . Manufactures . . . Commerce . . . State of society . . .
Government . . . State funds.
CHAPTER XXI. p. 139. Leave New York. . .Intelligence of the stage
drivers. • .Jersey. . .Bergen. . . A swamp. . .Hackensack river. . .Passaic river
. . .Newark. . .Elizabethtown. . . Woodbridge . . . Rariton river. . .Brunswick
. • . Kingston « . . Princeton ... A commencement ... Ball .. . Music and dancing
...Trenton.
CHAPTER XXII. p. 144 Nxw Jxksxt. . .Situation. . .Extent. . .Area.. .
Face of the country . . . Minerals . » . Soil . . . Cliiiate . . . Settlement and progress
. . .Ciril divisions and population . . . Improfements . . . Towns. . .Roads. . ^
Bridges y. .Projected canal... Agriculture and produce. ..Manufactures...
Commerce . . .Edutation. . .Govwnment.
VOL.1. C
' ii
t
xviii
COHTBHTB.
CHAPTER XXIIX. ^ U7. Trenton bridge. . .DeUware riter. . .ReiideiiM
of general Moreau. . .Reilectiont. . .America compared with Europe. . .Bria-
tol . . . Frankford . . . Philadelphia. ^
CHAPTER XXIV. p. 150. Detcription of Philadelphia. . .Plan. . .Popula-
tion. . . Buildinga . . . Public buildingi . . . State-house . . . Markets . . . Manufac-
tures... Trade t.. State of society... Education... Societies... Police... Re-
marks thereon.
CHAPTER XXV. p. 156. Floating Bridge. . . WaUr.works. . .Remarka on
fUtration . . . Sute ■ prison . . . Library . . . Remarka on libraries . . . Feale's museum
. . .Schuylkill bridge. . .Jaunt to the country. . .A flax spinning>miU. . .Falla of
Schuylkill... Politics.
CHAPTER XXVI. p. 168. PaiiiriYLVAiriA. . .Situation. . .Extent. . . Area
. . . Face of the country* • . Mountains . . . Rivers . . . Minerals . . . SoU . . . Clintailn
. . .Settlement and prog^sa. . .Civil divisions and population. . .Improvements
...Cities and towns... Roads... Bridges... Canals... Agricidture and pro-
duce . . . Manufactures . * » Commerce . , . State of society . . . Government
CHAPTER XXVII. p. 177. Land and water stages. . .Delaware river. . .
Country on its banks . . . Newcastle . . . Low marshy landa.
CHAPTER XXVIII. p. 179. Delawaab. . .Situation. . .Extent. . . Area
. . .Face of tbto country. . .Rivers. . .Minerals. . .Soil. . .Climate. . .Settlraient
and progress ... Civil divisions and population . . . Improvements . • . Towns . . •
Agriculture and produce . . . Manufacturea . * . Commerce . . . Schools . . . Consti-
tution and government.
CHAPTER XXIX. p. 182. Elk river. . . Chesapeake bay. . ^Extensive view
. . .Susquehannah river. . .Arrive at Baltimore. . .Numeroua company. . .Meet
some old fellow-travellers. . .Market. . .Madame Jerome Bonaparte and child
. . .Cofiee«house . . . Library. . . Ship-yards . . . Agreeable company. . . Descrip-
tion of Baltimore . . . Public buildings . . . Mam^actures . . . Commerce . . . Banka
...Police.
CHAPTER XXX. p. 187. Mahtl aw . . . Situation . . . Extent . . . Area* . .
Face of the country. . .Mountains. . .Chesapeake bay. . .Rivers. . .Minerals. . .
Soil . . . CUinate . • . Settlement and progress ... Civil divisions and population . . .
Improvements... Cities and towns... Agriculture and produce... Manufao-
tures . f . Commerce ... Education ... Government.
CHAPTER XXXI. p. ^93. Leave Baltimore . . . Patapsco creek. . ^BIa-
densburg. . .Washington. . .Capitol. . .Capitol bill. . .Superb view.
CHAPTER XXXIL p. 195. Washington. . .Treasury. . .Post4>ffie«. . .Ca-
pitol. . . Barracks . . . Remarks on the army , . . Navy-yard. . . Geo^town. . .Po-
tomac river. . .Road lud out by congress.
CHAPTER XXXIU. p. 201. \yait on Mr. Jefierson. . .Conveifation. . .
Notice of American coipmercial cities.. t Climate and season... Epid«mi«
sick
...1
OONTIMTt.
XlX
1^
:'4
•'K
■iekneMf.Ytlkfw ftvAr. . *PalM's eMay...IUMdi...InUnMl Inpronmcnti
• . . Mwiufuturet . • . ScntimtnU r«UtiT« to Mr. Fox.
CHAPTER XXXIV. p. 307. Diitriot or Colvmbia. . .Bitmit. . .Sitiu*
tion. . .Face of the country i « .8<^; . iCUmate. • .Diyltiona. .* Improvement** . .
Description of Wash i n . to n C ity . . . Plen . . . Buildings. . . Public buildings
. . . Markets . . « Manufactures . . . )»utc of society . • . Police . . . General remark*
on British and French iii4ucnce . . . Pr babUity of an amicable adjustment of
the differences with Britain. . . AleMitdha.
CHAPTER XXXV. p. 215. Leave Alexandria . . . OcCOquhan creek. . .
Agreeable company. . . A repuhlic . . .Songs and stories. . .Dumfries. « .Frede-
ricksburg. . . Rappahannock river . . . Mattapony river . . . Ptfliunky river . . . York
river... York i.* Hanover court*house... Richmond.. » James river. ..Naviga-
tion. . .Canal. . . Appamattox river. . . Petersburg. . . Agreeable company. . *
Nottaway rhrer.^.Meherrin river.
CHAPTER XXXVI. p. 336. Viroinia . . .Jefferson's Nntes. . .Bounda-
ries... Extent... Area... Face of the country... Mountains... Rivers.. .Pas-
sage of the Potomac through the Mountains • . . Cascades . . . Caves . . « Bloving
cave . . . Natural bridge . . . Minerals . . . Soil . . i Climate . . . Settlement and pro-
gress... Civil divisions and population... Towns... Roads... Navigation...
Architecture . . . Agriculture and produce . . . Manufactures « . . Commerce . . .
State of society. . .Colleges. . .Education. . .Rellf^on. . .Government . . . Ex-
tracts from Mr^ Jefferson's Notes. . .On government. . .On the importation of
foreigners ... On manufactures, agriculture, and commerce.
CHAPTER XXXvil. p. 353. Roanoke river. . . Warrenton. . iTar river. . .
Nuse river . . . Raleigh . . . Dismal country . . . Black river . . . Cape Fear . . . Fa-
jretteville . . . Lumberton ... An accident . . • Swim the horses and stages
CHAPTER XXXVIli. p. 359. North Caroli va. . .Situation. . .Extent
. . . Area. . .Face of the country. . .Mountains. . .Rivers. . • Minersls. . ^Soil. . .
climate... Settlement and progress... Civil dinsions and population... Im-
provements. . .Towns. . .Roads. . .Ag^culture and produce « . . Manufactures
and c6mmeree . . . State of society . . . Gk>vemment ^
CHAPTER XXXiX. p. 364. Flat country . . . 6ad roads . . . Methodist
church . . . Swimming creek . . . Little Pedee river. . . AltercaUon with the dri-
ver... Reedy creek... Maple «wamp... Great Pedee river ...A breakfast...
Lynche*s creek. . .Blackmingo creek. . .Wilton. . . An agreeable Irishman* . .
Fever and ague * . . A dinner . . . Black river ... An old friend . . . Georgetown . . •
Culture of rice ... A causevray . . . Santee river^ . .View of the Atlantic ocean
. . . Arrive at Oharleston.
CHAPTER XL. p. 373- A- politician ... A fever . . . Sudden change of
weather. . .Description of Charleston.
CHAPTER XLI. p. 37U South C aroliha . . . Situation . . . Extent. . .
Area. . .Face of the country. . .Hills. . .Rivers. . .Minerals. . .SoU. . .Climate
XX
CONTEKT8.
Settlement and pngna*, . . Civil divitions uid'pi)|Hilctkm. . iliiipiibremcntf. i *
Towns . . . Agriculuire and prodttoe . . . Manufactures . . . Comneree . . . State of
«Dciety. . .Education. ..GoveRimcnt.
CHAPTER XUi. p 385. Pataajpe to Savaimtb by •ea...Tybe« light-
iioase. . .Savannah.. .Death and character of a fUend. . .Hard labour. ..Flat-
tering prospects . . r A ne w connection . . . Prepare to embarit (br Europe.
CHAPTER XLIII. p. 288. Gborgia. . .Situation . . . Extent. . . Are*. . i
Face of the country. . .Mountains. . .Rivers. . .Soil and Climate. . .Settlement;
and progress . . . Civil divisions and population . . . Towns, . . Agriculture and
produce^.... Education... Reflections on that subjects.. Religion... Govwh-
inent.
CHAPTER XLIV. p. 394. Embarlc for Europe . . . Felklw passengers. • .
Detained in the river. ..A fine breeze. ..Fast sailing. .. A eloop of war. ..A
frigate . . .Sea diversions . . . Cape Clear. . . An Irish inlot boatw . .C6ve of Cork
...TuBeur...Skerries4ig^t... Liverpool pilot boat... Head winds... A gale
'. » . Royle lake. . . A cavalcade ... An ignorant gidde . . . Arrive in Liverpool,
c CHAPTER XLV. p. 300. Change of counc'ds in Britain . . .Probable effect
<ni the American relations. . .Am political doctrines. . .Commercial arrange-
ment. . I Information as to the late election. . .Political discussions. . .Chairing
the members. . .Political motives. . . An intelligent Liverpool f^eman.
CHAPTER XLVL p. ?05. Set out for Glasgow. . .Ormskirk. . .Preston
4.. Lancaster... Conversation with a London merchaiit.. • Kendal. .. Shi^
fells. . .Geese grazing. . .Penrith. . .Thriving farms. . .CarUsle . . . Manufkc-
tures...Longtdn... Scotland... Extensive view. . .Gretna green... Laws of
marriage in ScotUuid... Rough r6ad...Lockerby... Moffat... Cold Weather
. . .Sources of the Clyde. .. Scottish dialect. . .Hamilton. . .Glasgow.
CHAPTER XLVn. p. 3ia Journey to England. . . Preston . . .Manchester
Liverpool. . .Warrington. . .Prescott . . . Gilead hall. . . Commercial iarranjge-
ihehts. . . Manchester. . . Antiquity. . . Extent . . . Manufactures . . . Improved
sfieam <^ngine. • .Cotton mills. . .Manufactures for America. . .Bury. . .Roch-
dale. . .Halifax. . .Leeds. . .Northalterton . . .Durham . . . River Wear. . .Ex-
tensive views... Reflections... Newcastie coal trade... Morpeth... Alnwick
. .. Magnificent castle... German ocean... Berwick. . . Dunbar* . .Elegant
.Edinburgh... Singular situation... Arthur's seat... Salisbury Craigs
•'••i
eedi
view.
. . .Castie. . .Calton hill. . .Lofly houses. . .Newtown. . .Elegant buildings. . .
Bridges. . .Leith. . .Adjacent country. . .Courts of law. . .Nobility and gentry
of Scodand... Education... State of society... Rapid travelling... Arrive at
Glasgow.
CHAPTER XLVIIL p. 319. Plans of the new ministry. . .Expedition to
Denmark. . .Orders in council . . . Consequences . . .Journey to the east country
. . .Cumbernauld. . .Forth aid Clyde canal. . . Stirling. . . Dumblane. . .River
km. . .Crieff. . .Metbvejt parish. . .Face of the country. . .River Almond
GONTCXTS.
XXI
iBcnts* • •
, .SUte of
Mte ligKt-
9pe.
• AMAa • k
ettlemenft
iltuMAnd
war*.. A
e of Cork
..A i^e
rerpool.
tble effect
i arrang^-
. Chairing
..Preston
. . . Shi^
Manufkc*
.LaMTB of
Weather
inehester
iarrange-
mproved
. .Roch-
ar. . .£x-
Alnwick
Elegant
y Craigs
ding^ ...
d gentry
irrive at
lition to
country
..River
Almond
t
4
•• (Skul* • * HwHon. » .PopuliKUoii. • .Occupationa* . •Faroui* * • Miaiiter. . . Se-
ccdera* . .SdioolmMter. . «Syatem of education. . .Church. . .Baptism. . .Sece^
der church . . • Calvinism . • • I^foniscuous dancinn;. . . Scottish musio and iianc-
ing.4 .Perth. . .Manufactures. * .Fisheries. . .Education. . .Return to Glasgow.
CHAPTER XLIX. p. 33L Another journey to the east country. ..Edii^
bur|^* ..Firthof Forth. ..Kinghom. . .Kirkaldy. . .Cupar. . . A garrulous plas-
terer. . .Fine ^ew. . . Firth oi Tay . . .Dundee . . . Auchtermouchty. . .Falkland
. . . Palace . . . Lomond htUs . . . Minerals . . . Edinburgh * . . Glasgow.
CHAPTER L. p. 3.?5. Effects i9( the orders in council. » .Jaunt to Edin-
burgh ...Celebration «f Mr> Fox*s bifth^day... Toasts... Lord Melville...
Death of sir John Moo:*e * . . Cold weather. . . Return to Glasgfaw. < jj^Kt
CHAPTER LL p. 338. Jounney to Ireland... KilBSfamockt.. Ayr... Dis-
mal night . . .Girvaa . . . Loch Ryan . . . Port Patrick. . . VioleHt weather . . . Head
winds. . .A gale. . .Return to|Kirt. . . A fairlrind.. .IreJimd. . .Belfast. . .Hills-
borough... BaMfbridfe...Duikdlrum bay. ..A shipwreck •..Ne wry... A de-
bifte. * .Bainbridge...^ Dromore. . .HilUboroug^. . . Lislbum:. <B«lfairt . . . Re-
turn to Newry. . .Humorous hosUer. . .Newcastle, o . An Iridi family . . .Whist
parties. . .Anecdotes. . .Irish linen trade. . .Braztt trade. « .Friends from Bel-
fast. . .Ballynahinch. . .Medicinal springs. . .Hospitality of an old Irishwoman
. . . Counsellor Trotter, late Mr. Fo!!t*a privite seeretw^. • ^. u*
CHAPTER LIL p. 353. Prepare to leave Ireland ... Dowwpatrick...
Strangford; . . Amasing rapid tide . . . Potto-ferry . . . Donaghadee . . . Reflections
on leaving Ireland. . .Port Patriek. . .Very distant view. . .West coast of Scot-
land. . .Bums* birth-place. . . Ayr. . .Glasgow.
CH APTER Lin. p. 355. Orders in council witUdrawm . . . Conduct of the
shipping interest... Pajber blockade... Views in potitftcal economy. i. Prepare
to embM<k fbr Anterica. . .Edtnbui^ ^ . . Dundee . . . Ctolisfo . . . Manchester. . .
Leeds. . .Sheffield. . .Nottingham. . .London. . .Vauxhall gardens. . .Singular
Occurrences.
CHAPTER LIV. p. 36L Leave London . . . Oxford. . . Birmingham. . .
Mineralogy . . . Shrewsbury . . . Cheslflb. . . Liverpool . . . Reflections on the situ-
ation of England and America.
CHAPTER LV. p 365. Engage a passage for America by the Pacific. . .
Passengers ... A dilemma ... Irish boatmen . . . Pacific sails . . . C ape Clear . . .
Head winds... Ship runs out of the bree7.e...Bank.(i of Newfoundland. ..
Gulph stream... Lunar observations ... Sandy Hook. ..Information from the
pilot. . .Qiiarantine ground. . . Ai'rive in New York.
CHAPTER LVI. p. 371. Journey to Philadelphia. . .Commercial discus-
sions. . .Negotiation with Britain broke off. . .Passage to Savannah. . .Effects
of the stoppage of the foreign trade.
CHAPTER LVII. p. 374. Journey up tl»e country. . .Louisville. . .Upper
country. . .Ogeeche river. . .Sparta. . .Domestic manufactures. . .Greensburg
xxu
CONTENta.
• . .OooMeriver». . Appaltehyriver. . .NewparehMe*. .Mount Vernon. * *iXm'
diion... Greeiuburg.-.. An •lann...Inqidi7'«riiether the blacks cm orguiisie
a |dot to destroy the white people in the southern states... Wuhington*.^
Rs^s mills... A manuftctory... Columbia court-house... Augusta... An old
friend*.. Richmond springs... Waynesboroug^... Great revoluticm in eom-
merce. . .Cotton manufactories r. .Probable consequences of the coomiercial
revolution.
CHAPTER LVIII. p. 383. Passage to Charleston ... A fever. . .Sulli-
▼an*s Island. . .Passage to New YoA. . .Head vrinds. . . A galen. ; A fiur wind
. . .Arrive in New Yoric. . .Celebration of the anniversary of independence. . •
Long Island. . .Jamaica. . .Fine view. . .Ntwton. . .Fruit. . .Journey to Phila-
de44iia...A merry party... A bloody nose. ..An eccentric preacher... A
sleeping fit. . .Loss of two hats. • .Return by the steam-boat. . .Stateii Island
. . .Qusrantine ground... Agreeable parties... Importsnce of temperance in
religious and political cUscussions^ snd of avoiding personal abase.
CHAPTER LIX. p. 39(K Residence in New York. . .Negotiations. . .Po*
litical views . . . Progress of American manufiictures • . . And aU hope of a bene*
ficial trade vrith Britain at an end.
APPENDIX. No. L p. 403. Of the cause of the yellow feter, and tho
means of preventing it
No. II. p. 411. Letter to a member of partiaroent on the orders in
council and the American trade. ..Extracts from Mr. Brouf^utm'a
speech.
Noi III. p. 433. Remarks on the Scottish peasantry. . .EslabUskmeiit
of the Glasgow public library. . .Regulations.
Ko. IV. p. 44L Obtervations on the trade between Britain and Amc«
rica.
m
«'j.a
n.*«M«-
m
organisiB
M
ngtoo*.'
..An old
' 1
in eom-
M
nmevcial
■m
'...SuUU
•
fuTDvind
dence.**
to Philft*
; *
iher*..A
Bii Island
\ 'i'
nrance in
)ni«..Fo-
1
afabone*
•|
'f and the
orders in
ougham's
bUshment
odAmc*
.1
, ■*
.W; ' '
1#
&
«.-,
DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
^
VOL. I.
Map of the United States, to front the title.
Chart of tiie Atlantic ocean, to front page
VSx*
VOL. n.
View of the country round Pittsburg, to front page 54
View round the falls of Ohio, 149
Map of Kentucky, 177
Map of Ohio, 209
View of the country round Zanesville, 231
View of the country round the falls of Niagara, 318
«IWVW«^WW
-,,' s'V
■may
*Scot
^77,3
hous
ERRATA.
VOL. I.
Fage. Line.
1 5 from top, for Grenock read Greenock.
13 4 from bottom, for Stora read Raugh^tn.
130 15 from bottom, for great consolation read inconaoiable affliction.
256 10 from bottom, for Wilmington read Fayetteville.
380 3 from top, for much the confidence read WMch in the confUknce.
409 15 from bottom, for Corlder*s hook read Corlaer't hoot.
VOL. IL
Page. Line.
64 7 from top, for 19tA read SOrA.
130 bottom line, for orchard read vineyard.
385 8 from top, for city read tovm.
are.
■i
,{»»s.V
!..,\-":..
INTRODUCTION.
ge 54
149
177
209
231
318
i I SHALL commence my introductoiy remarks by a
I short description of the City of Glasgow.
i Glasgow is situated on the north side of the river
J^ Clyde, at the head of the tide water. It is 400 miles from
f London, 42 from Edinburgh, an'l 22 from Grenock, which
I may be considered as its port. It is the second city in
i^Scotiand, and contained, by the enumeration of 1801,
J 77,385 inhabitants. The city is regularly built^ and the
houses, being all of free-stone, have a very elegant ap-
pearance. The public buildings are numerous, and many
of them splendid ; among which may be reckoned the Ca»
thedral, the Infinnary, and the College buildings ; which last,
though old and antiquated, are spacious, and the institution
is esteemed one of the finest seminaries of education in Bri"
tain. The manufactures of Glasgow have arisen to great ex-
tent and perfection, particularly those of cotton. The prin-'
cipal articles of manufacture calculated for the United States
are, fancy muslins (a sort of staple commodity), printed
caliicos, ginghams, shirtings, hosiery, threads, tapes, ear-
then and glass ware, iron ware, &c. Glasgow is also a
market for disposing of the manufactures of the other parts
of Scotland, particularly of Dundee, Perth, and Fifeshire,
such as sail cloth, cotton bagging, oznaburgs, cotton and
linen checks, and ticks- — of Dunfermline, table cloths,
Vol. I. A
It
•«
u
INTRODUCTION.
sheetings, and towelings— of Stirling and Kilmarnock,
carpeting, gloves, &c. The returns from America con-
sist principiUly of cotton, of wliich Glasgow manufactures
above 10,000 bales annually.
Having served an ample apprenticeship to business in
one of the principal manufacturing houses in Glasgow, I
resolved, in the beginning of the year 1806, to commence
business on my ovvn accoimt. I had long studied the
trade to the United States of America, and was well
aware of its importance to both countries ; but the con-
stant jealousies which had existed between tliem, during
Mr. Pitt's administration, induced me to decline embark-
ing in it. Towards the close of the year 1805, a change
of, councils took place in Britain, and at the head of the
new ministry was that great and enlightened statesman,
Charles James Fox. From the known sentiments of Mr.
Fox, for justice and moderation, I calculated that every
thing would be amicably arranged between the two go*
yemments, for I never had any doubt as to the just and
pacific policy of the United States. I trusted in a lasting
friendship between the two countries, and on a great and
increasing commerce; and I accordingly embarked in it
with all tlie ardour of commercial enterprize ; selecting
for my branch the trade to Savannah, in Georgia, in which
it appeared there was a good opening, and I was particu-
larly well acquainted with the commodity to be returned,
cotton.
Having completed my purchases, and established my
connections, I resolved to go to America in person, to
establish the business there, and made prepaudons for tiic
voyage accordingly; and the following remarks, grounded
upon an essay of tlie late celebrated Dr. Franklin, andtht-
■ -1
»
"%
res
i
oth
f
'
}
hav
afe
the
..
pre^
•
Ii
alth
.
pen<
i
|be.
man
^and
[tisfy
1
' mak
1
mak
Is >
a sta
f 1 surh
M pers(
■^
f self,
I
'i
fit w
■
acco
smal
if y(
Si
dra\^
m
boar
^
of pj
"S
r
w
and
•5W
INTRODUCTION.
Ill
mock,
a con-
ictures
ness in
gow, I
imence
ied the
as well
be con-
during
^mbar^-
i change
d of the
utesman,
s of Mr.
at every
two go*
just and
a lasting
^at and
ked in it
selecting
in which
particu-
•etumed,
shed my
srsQn, to
is for tlic
i^rounded
, andtht-
result of a good deal of experience, may be useful to
others. I have summed them up under die title of « fe
'■V
^1
Advice to those about to undertake a Sea Voyage*
When you intend to take a long voyage^ endeavour to
have your whole business transacted, so as you may have
a few days to spend with your friends, and to attend to
the little necessaries that may be requisite on the voyage,
previous to your departure.
It is not always in a person's power to choose a captain,
although a good deal of the comfort of the passage de.
pends upon this choice. The chief requisites are, that he
be a good seaman ; attentive, careful, and active in the
sf management of his vessel ; and of these circumstances,
and indeed all others relative to the passage, you must sa-
tisfy yourself before setting out, for there is no use in
making complaints at sea. It is still more difficult to
make choice of sociable fellow-passengers. A ship is like
a stage-coach, it must accommodate all comers ; stnd ohe
surly fellow may molest a whole ship's company. But a
person, by having resources of his own,* may make him^-.
\ self, in a great measure, independent of other people, and
it will be well, before going on board, to take measures to
f accomplish that desirable object. For this purpose, a
small library of books will be found very entertaining, and
if you have any turn for the study of mathematics and
drawing, you will have a good opportunity to practise on
board ; and a case of mathematical instruments, and a box
of paints will be necessary.
The greater part of the carrying trade between Britain
and America is performed in American vessels, and a cabin
■^5
IV
UH'RODUCTIOK.
passage in one of these vessels is generally very agreeable.
The expence, including every thing, is from 30 to 40
guineas. There are various modes of laying in provisions.
One is for the captain to provide everything; another is
to provide every thing, except liquors ; and a third is for
the passengers to furnish every thing, at their joint ex-
pence. If the captam be a judicious man, there will ge-
nerally be a good supply, in eitlier case. But it may not
be amiss, for those who can aflbrd it, to have a private
assortment of good tea and cordials; should they not have
occfision to use tliem themselves, they may have an op-
poiitunity of serving some poor steerage passenger.
There is generally a medicine chest on board, but it is
sometimes not in very good order ; and it will be advisa-
ble to have a few simple medicines of your own, such as
rhubarb, cream of tai*tar, and Peruvian bark ; and a few
dozens of spda water will be fpund a very agreeable be-
verage.
When a family undertake a sea voyage, they have ge-
nerally their own servant; and if they are numerous, they-,
will ^d it most comfortable and most economical to en-
gage a state-room, and lay in their own stores. For the
information of such, I shall here subjoin a list of the most
essential articles. »
They are entitled to the ship's provisions ; biscuit, salt
beef, pork, peas, &c. — In addition, they will require meal, •
barley, Hour, potatoes, pigs, ducks, fowls, porter, wine,
and spirits. Beef, mutton, and loaf bread will keep fresh
eight or ten days at sea, and it should be always laid in,
^ as it proves not only a considerable saving to the fresh
stock, but is generally more grateful to the stomach at
tjwt period thJin any other food. .,,
itj-
:%
pro^
con
sug
cess
tofi
to r
whi(
vide
arc ;
man
|wou
pass
tlie
agai
A
shaU
A
get
bec£
and,
ston
ness
food
dayj
be a
or M
go I
oft]
exer
t^r \
i'il
INTRODUCTION.
eeable.
to 40
isions.
>ther is
1 is for
int ex-
vill ge-
lay not
private
othave
an op-
,vu
»ut it is
advisa-
siich as
d a few
ible be-
ave gC:
is, they
I to en-
Tor the
ke most
lit, salt
emeal,
wine,
!p fresh
laid in, ,
e fresh
lach at
m
The expence of a steerage passage is about twelve gui-
neas, and the passengers are entitled to the whole ship's
provisions before enumerated; but to make themselves
comfortable, it will be proper to add a little stock of tea,
sugar, liquors, barley, and oat meal. It is generally ne-
cessary, both in the cabin and steerage, for th^ passengers
). to furnish their own bedding. I may take occasion here
§ to remark, that this practice is an improper one. Vessels
which are calculated to carry passengers, should be pro-
I vided with bedding, particularly in the cabin births. They
1 arc furnished at no great expence, and one set would serve
^ many passages, so that the expence, during one passage,
% would be trifling : whereas, t>y the present practice, each
' ipassenger is subjected to a considerable expence, besides
^i^ie trouble of purchasing his bedding, and of selling it
again at the close of the passage. »
A few general remarks, to be attended to while at sea,
shall conclude this article.
A short time after setting sail, the passengers generally
get sea sick. This complaint, though lightly esteemed,
because not dangerous, is often very severe while it lasts,
and, if treated improperly, it may cause a relaxation of the
^ stomach, that will be very troublesome. While the sick-
p ness continues, people have an aversion to all kinds of
- food and drink. Many abstain from both, three or four
days. This is a bad plan. The stomach should never
be allowed to get entirely empty. A little chicken broth
or water gruel should be freely used ; and people should
go upon deck as soon as possible. Breathing the foul air
of the cabin or steerage promotes the disease ; whereas
exercise and free air on deck relieve it. A little soda wa-
t^r will at this time be very exhilarating ; and as soon as
'm
VI
INTilODUOTrOK.
the stomach is so far cleansed as to keep free from netch-
ing, a little Peruvian bark will be very beneficial as a
restorative. Care should be taken to guard against cos-
tiveness, a very troublesome complaint at sea. Attention
to diet and exercise will often prevent it ; but where that
fails, a little laxative medicine, such as rhubarb, cream of
tartar, or castor oil, should be resorted to.
When the weather is good, people should rise early.
The air of the cabin is not only affected by the respira-
tion of th& passengers, but is often contaminated by the
bilge water ; wliile the sea air on deck is always pure and
healthy. The breakfast hour at sea is 8 o'clock, dinner
1, and supper 6 or 7. It is a general rule amongst the
pas^ngers, to have themselves washed and dressed before'
sitting down to breakfast. Betwixt breakfast ?^iid <*iriner,'
the time may be profitably employed in walking,- reading,*
drawing, &c. ; and such as have a taste for navigation
will have a good opportunity for practical improvement,
as they can have access to the log-look ; and the captain
and mates are generally very obliging, in lending their na-
vigation books and instruments to those who wish them. ^
w Temperance at table is necessary every where, and es^
pecially at sea, where the exercise is necessarily limited^'
Where wine is used, three or four glasses will generally
be found more beneficial than a larger quantity; and peo-
ple ought, on no account, to indulge themselves at the
table a whole afternoon, though it is frequently done. It
is much better to take exercise in the open £ur on deck, v^)
In the evening, the company frequently amuse them-
selves at cards, backgammon, &c. ; these, when resorted
to for amusement only, are rational and innocent enough;
but when the play is for money, they ought to be avoided.
I
INTRODUCTION.
vii
n netch-
al as a
ist cos-
ttention
lere that
ream of
»t
e early,
respira-
i by the
ure and
dinner
igst the
I before
<*5riner,
wading,'
k^igation
irement,
captain
^eir na-
them,
md es"
imitedl
jnerally
id peo-
at the
tie. It
them-
esorted
lough;
b^oidedt
I may add^ that, generally speaking, peo]/1e^ hapf jiess
is very much in their own power. A suavity of mai. tiers,
and an obligingly civil deportment, is calculated to secure
the esteem of mankind ; and when things are not exactly
as we would wish them to be, it will add to our own
comfort to take them as we find them.
\'j
'.'I'ir
:'^3
VOL. i.
( tr' ■'TwvsunJKavwn. ,-
CHART
of tl\e
O e E A
luintoiixJi cuf
TRAVELS
-I.
IN
THE UNITED STATES, &c.
CHAPTER I.
GlasgffWr^Qreenofk, — Savannah* \
Laving shipped my goods on boaard the ^iip WaiV
captain Hk^ley, bound from Gieei)ock to Sa«
^anm^, I set out from Glasgow £or Greenock by the .stage
:oach, on' Saturday, the 8th of March) 1806. There me
two roads from Glagow to Greenock, the one direct, by
[Renfrew, the other by Paisley. The stage took the letter
i route, which lies through a level, weU-cultivated country^
id pretty fertile, to Pai^y.
Paisley is 7 miles distant from Glagow, and b an irre^
ilarly built town, the streets mosdy narrow, and not very
[clean. It contains upwards of 30,000 inhabitants $ an^
[the principal manufactures are fancy imislins and threads^
silks and gauzes. The peqile are veiy industrioufl^
9pA there is moie el^;ance and tastediqilayed in the ^kncjr
goods of th£^ town than in any other that I have seer^
From Paisley towards Greenod^^ the countiy continues
level for two miles, and then the road rises for about fivtf
mUes, with a gradual ascent, to Bishoptown, wlieie; tiier^
is a very fine view* To the west is a full view of this
river Clyde, which expands to die breadth of seven mitei^
VOL. i. B
Ipm.
4ti#'
10
TRAVELS IN
1
having Greet)iOck and Port Glasgow. o^.it$ left, bai^, and
its borders studded with elegant villas, surrounded by-
well cultivated fields and plantations. To the north is
Dunbarton, an irregularly built litde town, at the mouth
of the river Leven, and having considerable manufactures
of glass. Near this stands Dunbarton castle, well known
in ancient stoiy, on a singularly insulated rock, the evi-
dent effect of some great eruption of the earth. . To the
north is the beautiful river I^even, celebrated in verse by
Smollett, who was born on its pleasant banks, two miles
A above Dunbarton. ., The . banks of the river are, elegantly
adorned with villas and cultivated fields, and there is more
machinery upon it than any river in the west of Scotland.
This little river is the outlet of Loch Lomond,, a lake
singularly beautiful and romantic, on the east side of
which stands Ben Lomond, one of the highest mountains
in Scotland ; and the view is terminated to the north and
west by mountains innumerable, the tops of which are ge-
nerally lost in the clouds. y
From the summit of the eminence where this view is
seen, the road proceeds by a winding descent to. the banks
of the river, and keeps close along shore for five miles to
Port Glasgow, a small town containing about 3000 people.
It was intended to be a port to Glasgow, as its name im-
plies, and has a little shipping trade ; but it is altogether
eclipsed by Greenock, which possesses superior advanta-
ges as- a port. Three miles beyond this is Greenock,
and on reaching it, I found that the vessel would not sail
for several days.,. .^>
JpR££iroc& is an irregularly built town, containing
about 18,000 inhabitants, land enjoys a very large portion
of the commerce of the west of Scotland, which employs
, *^^-
SCOTLAND.
11
an extensive mercantile capital. Besides th^f^d&sting and
Irish trade, of which it has a large share, it employs nu-
merous shipping to Canada, to the We^t Indies, and to
the continent of Europe ; and it is the seat of nearly the
whole of the American trade with Scotland. There are
three or four vessels in the New York, and as many in the
Charleston trade ; besides occasional vessels for Boston/
Savannah, Norfolk, &c. This trade is wholly carried on
in American vessels; and they generally perform two
voyages in the year. The country round Greenock has a
singular and even romantic appearance. The Clyde is
here seven miles broad ; but a few miles below, it makes
a sudden bend to the southward, and contracts to the
breadth of twomilts. On the opposite side is Hellens-
burg, and two miles below, on tins ^de, is Gourock,
which are celebrated watering-places, and much frequented
by the citizens of Glasgow in the summer season; and on
the west is situated Roseneath, a seat of the duke of Ar-
gyle. It was lately burnt down, but is now rebuilt in an
elegant style, and commands a fine view of the Firth and
ks shipping. The whole country found rises into hig^
lands, and the yiew lis terminated to the north and west
by Idty mountains. '\ ' ■■>r
From tins configuration of the country, bonnectsd with,
the winds which blow across the Atlantic Ocean, 'we may
account for the fi^uent rains with Which this place, and'
indeed the greater part of the West coast of Scodand, is^
inundated. The wind blows Irom the sc^th-west for eight
or nine months in the year, and is parj^eularly prevalent in
the winter season. In its course fi^m the warm latitudes,
over the vast expanse of water in the Atlantic Oca;u, it
is highly impregnated -with yi^ur; and, arriving on the
ir
TBAttLi IH
high lands on the wesi of Scotland^ it ia suddenly conw
densed, and falls down in ton«nts of rain. From'these
circumstances^ the winters are mild ahd rainy. There is-
comparatively little snow, and it never lies long ; but it
has been frequently observed to rain for forty 4wo days
successively. I cannot better illustrate this, ^lan by re-
lating an anecdote of an English traveller, and a wsuter at
one of the public inns* The traveller had arrived theii^
for the first time. On the morrow, he intended to trans^
act his business, but was prevented by the rain; and sd
successively, for four or five days. At last, accosting the^
waiter, " What; my fed^" says he, "does it alwdyk raitt
here?" « Q na," ^^ys the Waiier, " it sothetimes snAWS;'**
>ft No material occurrence happened during my stay ftt*
GHeenocfc, and' I went on board the Wairington, on We**'^
itesday, the 12th of Mareh, A Mr. BaBard, of Bost^f «
was my fellow-p^idsetiger ih the cal^ ; and a Mr* Millet^
and, a Mr. M'Kiehai^ were passengers in the steerages
We set sail at 3 o'dock in the nftemoon^ aceompmied
by the Factor, Caldwelly of New Yofkt but the l^^ind wa»^
ligh^ and we made litde progreiisJ Bdlii tfa^ese yes6di»
Were very fast sailers^ and^ esschetd eonddf^sfeble intei^
which would sjul best. Among others^ I had a SrtjaH b0t-
dbpendiikg on the. sUcoess. of our vbsset By dint of tow- i
ing^ \ve had gbt a^ little aliead of ttve Factor, and weref^
tiraoght to and boahied by die crew Oif the teiid^, which
was at the Tail c^ the Bmk, i^anui^aiseareh ^ Bf^shf
setoien, at^ cohducteH theth^ve^ with all the inisoleiiefr
of- sff^itrary po^t^ r but att W;^ :^)Und c€»Te<it', >£Md we
wtere Sttfeed to di^)aim ^^ ^^i r
Ih th6 mean Mme/ a sm^ breeze havlrfg sfirung up,
th€' Fajctpf^ feeling H fimytestAe'tip^iti^us vcvy fast, titelt
>'■•
teotLAKtt*
li
Jy con-
rn'these
rhere is
but it
ivo dayis
I by re-
ivaiter at
ed thei*
to trans^
and sb
iting the
fdffi rain
^ stay ifii
Ml Wed-*
Bost?r4ii
n mm
ragei
mpanied
iriiid was'
^ yefifiek^
* int£i^iM
maltbei
of tow-
id ivertf
V which
tsotehce
a»d we*
ing up,
the wind dut of our sails, and fairly pataed us, to the.
great joy of the one ship^s company> and the mortification
of the c^r. We felt the breeze in our turn, and kept
right astern of the Factor fifteen miles, to the-Cumbraes,
where she hove to, to discharge the pilot, and we passed
her ; and she again passed us, while we were discharging
our8»
Five miles below Greenock is the Ctough light-house,
where the river contracts) and makes the sudden bend to
the south before noticed ; a little beyond which it spreads
out into a spacious firtii, and embosoms several islands,
the chief of which ttte Arran^ Bute, and the Cumbraes*
It is bounded with high lands on both sides, and the is^ds
are generally rugged and Idly. Aitan, in particular, rises
into very high mountains. The channel is very safe, aad
is navigable, at aH seasons, for vessels of any burden.
It was dark when we discharged the pilot, and I retired
to rest When J[ rose in die morning, I found we had
passed the island of Arran, and were abreast of that singu-
larly insulated rock, in the middle of the channel, cele-
brated in song by the fiivoimte Scottish baxdyBums-^
yi
■!i>
" Meg was deaf as jiiUa Craig.**
Htfe w^ hii a 'Very e)tten«ive view of the Scottish and
Iri^ coasts. The Factor was a few miles ahead.
The WHid continued light and variable, so that we did
not get out of due channel until the afternoon, when we
passed the MuH <^ Gantyre^ soon after which we passed
Stora inland; and on the morning off die 14th, we found
ourselves in the Adantic Ocean, and had a most extensive
view of the notth^wtest coast of Ireland, and the Western
SetMlandi In the afternoon, we were dt>reast of
. <i--^
p:
I*
%
'■%
u
TBAVEL8 OK
fl:
k
:#
^1
Tory Island, from whence we took our departure, and,
bestowing my benediction on the British islands, I com-
mitted myself to the waters of the Atlanta, hoping for a
speedy and-pleascmt passage, and a safe arrival on Colum-
bia's shore.
i^i/tThe wind continued very variable, ajccompanied with
cold, stormy weather, with rain,, hail, and snow, occa^on-
I ally, until the 16th, when it got more settled. During all
this time, we had Jkept sight of the Factorj but she was
genially ahead. We now took a fair, strong breeze from
the eastward, at the commencem^t of which the Factor
jvas ahead fully twelve miles^ and the ships had now a
good opportunity J^ trying their full speed. We soon
found that we gained upon the Factor very fast, and finally
passed her on the morning of th^ I7th, to the great mor-
tification of her captain, who tried her on all tadLS, but
.without success ; and he finally, shaped his course more
to the northw^d, jnd we Ig^t sight d* die vessel durii^
the day. '. ^^•^♦.-'v,^iJtj;--.«vy.;'^-)M;: /.■^.^••^■■' ■■•-^-.f .;■:->*«?:
, This breeze CQntmued, wafting us akoig at the rate of
nine or .ten miles anJiour, unti) the aftemcion of the 2Qth,
when we were to the westward of the Western Iskinds,
and congratulating ourselves on the prospect of a speedy
p^ssagc-^Qut, lo la suddqi reverse took piaffe* The
wind, wliuch was blowing froijfi-the southrcast, incrdased
4 into a most furious; gsile, a^d the slup was brought frT}m
top-gakl)aQt, and studding s^i to foresail and dose-reefed
main top-sail. The gale infproised, the ship laboured hard,
and shipped a gre;Gt many 2;eavy seas ; but at 1 o'clock,
on the morning of $he ^Ist, it lulled into a perfect calm.
It was now that we felt the most disagreeable effects of
the gale; for the sea had risen mountains high, and \the
^
'ffl
VI
'9
t<
.'9
e
'f^^^^l
tl
H
THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.
it
ire, and,
;, I com-
ing for a
[ Colum-
lied with
occasion-
>uring all
she was
;eze from
he Factor
id how a
We soon
md finally
;reat mor-
acks, but
ursemore
el during
h' -{If'
ship, having no sail to steady her, partook of the motion
of every wave, and rolled so sharp, that she threatened to
toss her masts overboard. This state of things was, how-
ever, of short duration. At 2 o'clock, the wind shifted to
the north-west, blowing most furiously, till about sunrise^
when it became a littie more moderate, and we made sail;
although the cross tumbling sea, occasioned by the con-
trary gales, made our sailing intolerably uneasy.
We had now a series of head winds, and disagreeable
weather, whidi will be best described by giving an extract
from my sea journal.
March 32. First part, strong gales and clear weather.
Middle and latter part, strong gales, with rain and Kail, a
very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. «^ '
• 23. Strong gales and tiiick weather all tiiese twenty-foinr
hours, a very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. At'
9 o'clock in the evening, the ship was struck with a very
heavy sea, which carried a^vay the bulwarics, and split the
starboard plank sheer nearly the whole length of the main
deck, washed the cambouse-house out of its place, and
nearly carried the cabin-boy overboard. At 12 o'clock at
night, shipped anotlier very heavy sea.
24. Commences with strong gales and a heavy sea.
Middle part more moderate, but a heavy sea, and the ship
labouring hard. Latter part moderate, and all hands em-
ployed in repairing the damages of the gale,
25. First part, fresh breezes and clear. Middle, tre-
mendous squalls. Latter part, Hght airs, inclining to a
calm.
26. First part, light winds. Middle and latter part,
fresh breezes, and cloudy.
M
■m.
16
TRATBL8 ON
27. First part, fresh breezes, and thick hazy weather.
Middle part, the breeze increased to a most tremendous
^e, and at 11 o'clock at night, the ship was struck with
such a sea, as made her quiver to her centre. My fellow-
passenger was thrown out of his birth with the violence of
the shock, and the cabin was nearly filled with water.
: There was no making sail in this weather, and the ship
was hove to. Latter part, very strong gales, with furious
squalls, a very heavy sea running, and the ship leaking
much in her upper works.
This, and those of the 21st and 23d, were the only se-
iVere gales we encountered, but we had a series of head
» winds, gales, and squalls, with occasional showers of rain,
hail, ami snow, till fhe 22d of April, when I find the fol-
lowing remarks in my Journal : ** Being now out forty<^onc
days, and little more than two-thirds of the passage, the
"Wind right against us, and no appearance of shifting, we
apprehend a long passage, and the ship's company are put
on short allo\vance of water. I am much afiraid oiu* goods
will be too late for the Savannah market."
The headwinds continued, but we had more moderate
'Weather, though occasional gales, till the 26th, when we
'Spoke a sloop out two days fh»n Bermuda. Being now
near diese Utile islands, I may step out of my course to
describe them, though I did not see them.
Theyare four in number, and were discovered by John
Bermudas, a Spaniard, in 1527; but the Spaniards ne-
glecting them, they weiie again discovered by Sir Geoi^
• Sommers, who was shipwrecked on them in. 1609. Of
l^tese islands, the chief is St. George, having a dapital of
the same name, consisting of about 500 houses, built of
sof^ free^stone. St« George contains about 3000 inhabi-
THE ATLAHTIC OCEAH.
»7
weather.
1
mendous
'
Lick with
':'
Y fellow-
i
olence of
h water.
'■
the slup
^
K furious
) leaking
; only se-
4
s of head
\
■8 (^ rain,
5
dthefoi-
forty»one
isage,
the
fdng, we
ly are put
iiir goods
moderate
when we
iing now
course to
by John
rds ne-
Geoi^
i09. Of
ipitsdof
buflt of
inhabi-
iants, and the whole islands perhaps about 9000, of whoiti
nearly two-thirds are slaves. The people are chiefly occu-
pied in building small craft, with which they trade .to Ca-
nada and the West Indies; and they are said to be veiy
•Xpert at the business of privateering. The civil govern-
ment is vested in a governor, council, and general assen»-
bly. The religion is that of the ohurch of England, and
a native of Perth, in ScotUlid, is minister.
The head winds sdll continued, but the weather was
moderate ; and after crossing the gulph stream, we made
the land on the 7th of May, supposed to be cape Look-
out, on the coast of North Carolina. But the head winds
still continued, and we were (to use a sea phrase) januned
in betwixt the gulph stream and the coast, so that we could
make no progress whatever till the 10th, when, to our great
joy, we got a fair wind, which wafted us briskly along, and
we made Tybee Light-house early on the morning of the
12th of May, after a turbulent, disagreeable passage of 61
days.
The breeze continuing favourable, we soon approached
the bar, where, having got a pilot, we waited half an houe
for the tide, and then made sail up Savannah river; which
I found a perfect contrast to the Clyde, the banks being
tow and muddy, and the country round a perfect level.
In our passage up we saw a good many fishes and alliga-
tors ; which last are fiightful-looking animals, but they are
by no means so dangerous as generally represented. At
Q o'clodL we passed a bend in the river called Four Mile
Point, and at 3 came to anchor at Five Fathom Hole;
where having dined on board, for the last time, we set out
in the small boat for Savannah, which we i:eached at 5
o'clock.
vox. J.
Ifi
♦?
TRATBLt OK
CHAPTER n.
'?srT||Cl:!4J'»^a(Wlf
t*
^1
General Remarks.
1 HE most material circumstances which happened on
board, are recorded in the foregoing chapter; but the pas-
sage may admit of the following general remarks.
The Warrington was a good stout vessel, of 318 tbns
burden, remarkably handsome and well found, aiid a veiy
fast sailer: but her cargo was light, and all at the bottom,
so that she was not well trimmed for sea; and her motion
Vi'as shaip, and intolerably uneasy.
'' Captain Hinkley, the commander, was bred a snlor on
board of this same vessel, and raised himself by his own
merit to the rank he now holds. His scientific knowledge
did not seem to be great, but he was an excellent seaman^
and very careful in die management of the vesid.
^' He was provided with- an excellent mate,' in Mr. Ar-
nold; who to a thorough knowledge as a seaman, joined a
COIitect knowledge of the theory and practice of navigation,
alid sciences connected widi it ; he wns moreover a very
agreeable, intelligent man, and I received much information
l^6m his remarks.
Mr. Ballard, my fellow passenger, was an int'^fiigent,
ffOod-natuined young man. With the steerage passengeb
I had of course less connection, butHhty Were agteeabtei
anci the sailoi^ behaved themselves with propriety during
the passage. »^ ,
TRB ATLAimC OCEAN
19
The motion of the vessel was too great to permit us to
amuse ourselves at any garnet and I devoted my time
pretty closely to the study of navigation, geography, astro,
nomy, and chart drawing; in which I flattered myself that
I made tolerable proficiency. The study of chemistry
took up part of my time, and so also did general literature
and music. To die principles of merchandize in general,
and the trade between Glasgow and Savannah in particular,
I paid much attention, and drew up an essay on the ship-
ping trade between the two places, and the best method of
prosecuting it; but circumstances have since occurred
which render it of little importance to the general reader,
and I omit it, and substitute in its place the following re*
fictions on the prevailing winds and currents, with other
phenomena, in die Atlantic ; and an inquiry as to the beat
courses across that ocean at diiferent seasons of the year.
I. or THE WINDS ON THB ATLANTIC.
The trade wind prevails between the tropics, that is, from
2^° S. to 23J'' N. latitude, being 47 degrees in breadth;
and is a constant motion of the air fh)m east to west,
having a little variation near the extremes, that is, towards
the southern tropic it inclines to the south-east, and to-
wards the nordiem trc^ic it indihes to the north-ea§t.
The cause of this current of air is supposed to be the ac-
tion of the sun, which is dways verdcsd at one pokit or
another between the tn^cs; combined with the diurnal
motion of the earthy which has a 'greater velocity here than
at any other point, llie adtion of a i^rticrf sun rarefies
and expands thew, inconsequence of which it rises; and
%
» «
4
ao
TRAVBLS ON
the motion of the earth sweeping £rom under it at the rate
of more than 1000 miles an hour to tlie eastward, causes
a constant current of air to the westward.^ The velocity of
thb current is various; but when I saUed in it, in my
voyage to the West Indies, it was very strong, and r^u-
lar^ carrying a heavy sailing vessel at the rate of 8 miles
an hour, and it never shifted a point irom due eaist
A litde attention to the nature of this wind may be use-
ful,^ as it illustrates the theory of the variable winds, and
bears with considerable ibrce upon the theoiy of the cli-
mate of the United States^ r
From the tr(4)ic of Cancer, in 23^% to about 28^ nordi
latitude, the wind generally blows' from the north-east, and
is a branch of )the trade wind, partriking ctf its natuine.
Between the latitudes of 28^ and 32° north, the winds are
very irregular; and that being the region between the trade
and variable winds, it is subject to frequent calms. Be?
tween the latitudes of 28° and 50° north, westerly winds are
by far the mo^t previ^ent, particularly in the winter and
spring, during which they frequently rise to furious gales
and squalls, beyond 50° north, I had not occasion to re?
mark, but I believe ^y are most prevalent from the north?
Ih OF THE Glri«PH STREAM.
/
This stream is a oonsequence arising from' the trade
winds, By an inspep^on of th^ chart of the Atlantic
Ocean, it .will b^ seen, tha]t the vast quantity of w^ter of
\vhich that ore^ is made up> must be affected by a con-
stant <;:urr^t of air swe^ing along it fin one di^ectioij*
t the rate
d, causes
velocity t)f
t, in my
ind regu-
if 8 miles
list. ■ .-i ■■':'"h:
lybeuse-
rinds, and
>f the cli-
28^noi11i
i-east,and
its natui;e.
winds are
I the trade
ims. Ber
wdndsare
^ter and
ous gales
ion tore?
northr
|the trade
Atlamic
water of
a con-
;don.
i
THE ATLAKTIC. OCEAN. ^
This must necessarily give a small degree of modon to
the water, which being slanted off by the direction of the
coast of South America, has, towards the southern extre-
mity, a nordi-west motion, and proceeding through the
•West Tndia islands, raises the waters in the gulph of Mex-
ico bc^^ji.^ the level of the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans.
The current being stopt by the isthmus of Darien, winds
along the northern coast of the gulph of Mexico, in search
of a level, and finds an outlet through the gulph of Flo«
rida, between the island of Cuba and the south point of
£ast Florida. From thence it proceeds in a nordi-east
direction, sweeping the American coast, at the distance of
60 or 70 miles from the land, until it reaches cape Hatte-
ras, where it approaches within 20 or 30 miles of the coast ;
here it tends more to the eastward, until it reaches the coast .
of Nova Scotia, when it takes a course nearly due east. JA
continues this course until it reaches the Great Bank of
Newfoundland, where it seems to be materially affectedi
and diverging to a greater breadth, is finally lost towards
the Azores and Madeira islands.
The breadth .of this stream, in the gulph of Florida^
is about 30 or 40 miles. It encreases as it proceeds to
the north-east: opposite cs^ Hatteras it is about 150 miles ;
off the coast of Nova Scoda it is about 4 degrees; and at
the Bank of Ne^vfoundland it is about 5 degrees; fit)m
thence -diverging to 6 or 7.
The velocity of the current is, in the gulph of Florida,
about five or six miles an hour, but it decreases as it pro-
ceeds to the north-east. Opposite cape Hatteras it is about
two miles; off the coast of Nova Scotia it is about one and
a half; and at the banks of Newfoundland it is about
one mile.
i-n-i
TRATKLS 0» «;4*^
4> The peobabiiity is> that ks course ia directed to die east-
ward by die iniiiienGe of die rivers issuing from die coast
of America, particulaiiy the great river St. Lawrence^ op-
posite to which it seems to make the greatest bend; and
it is also probable that the confluence of dieae waters and
another stream proceeding fromDavb' Straits, has c6nitri-
buted to raise the Banks of Newfoundland.
The temperature Of this stream is different from that of
the surrounding ocean, and partakes of that of the waters
in the gulph of Mexico, being generally 10 or 12 degrees
warmer than the other parts of the ocean. / Hence it affects
the temperature of the air above i^ which is frequendy
subject, particidarly m the spring, to calms, fogs, whirl-
winds, water spouts, and storms of thunder and hg^itning.
The heavy fogs which hover over the Banks of Newfound-
land, seem to arise from this warm fluid, mixing with die
icold atmosphere generated by the ^ream from Davi»'
Straits. -■vm.'^'c
The next phenomena which I diall notice, as bearing
on this subject, is, that islands of ice, sometimes numerous
and of great extent, are carried by the stream from Davis*
Straits, in the spring season; and before they are dissolved
by the warmth of the Adandc, they sometimes extend as iu*
south as the latitude of 45° or 40°, and as far east as die
longitude of 48° or 50^. Vessels sailing to and from Ame-
rica have been frequendy entangled amongst them) and
some have been totallv lost.
A correct knowledge of these circumstances is of con-
sidemble importance to our inquiry, and the foUowkig
practical deductions may be of service to those interested
in the result.
i*.
THE ATLAKTIC OCEAN.
23
om that of
the watars
12 degrees
ceitalfects
frequently
Dgs, whirl-
hghtning.
Newfound'
!g with the
as bearing
numerous
)m Davis'
> diasotved
tend as iu*
sastas the
omAme-
hem, and
' d
'm
1st. Ships bound ton Britain to the West Indies should
shape their course fitim die channel to St. Mary's, one of
the Azores; fixim thence to where die longitude of 40^ in-
tersects the fattitude of 23i° ; and from thence run down the
trades kr the intended port, ^ps bound from Europe
to the giriph of Mexico, should keep the same course. The
return from the West Indies and Mexico to Europe is dif-
ferent according to situation, as a few degrees of longitude
make an important variation. Generally speaking, it is best
for vessds to bear to the nordiward until they xget into the
variable winds, and then keep along with them in the near-
est way to their intended port.
2d. Vessels bound to the southward of the capes of
I Virginia in the United States, should, in the spring, shape
their course for St. Mary's as aforesaid; fit)m thence to
about where the longitude of 35° intersects the latitude of
28°, where they will, at that season, most likely meet with
an easterly wind, failing which they are sure to fall in with
it a few degrees farther south; run down with it due west
till they arrive on the confines of the gulph stream; and
then bear away for the intended port. By taking this
southern course, at this season, they will avoid, several
difficulties. 1st. The danger of falling in with islands of
ice. 2dly. The necessity of passing the gulph stream
where it is four or five degrees broad, and at that season
subject to much bad weather. And 3dly. The chance of
meeting with a series of head winds. In the autunm there
is no ice to be dreaded, the weather is more mild, and th^
westerly winds less prevalent, while the latitudes between
28° and 32° are much subjected to calms, so that it isi best,
upon the whole, to nm for the intended port.
fli TRAVMiSIN Hi
3d. Ships bound to the northward of the capes of Virginia
should shape their course direct for the intended port
They have n6 occasion to cross the gulph stream, and as
to the ice, it may be prudent to keep a little to the south-
ivard, as they approach the Banks of Newfoundland.
4th. Vessels bound to Europe Grom. any port of Ame-
rica, cannot do better than run direct for the intended
port.
-jwr-
GBOHGIA.
•l-*'W
GHAFTEIt WL
Savannah,
The firsj objects that attracted my attention on my ar-
rival in Savannah, was the salloW appearance of the inha*
bitants, and the extreme \varmth of the weather; the ther-
mometer being at 91®. I naturally concluded, that as the
[season advanced, the heat would increase, and would soon
)e almost intolerable. This opinion was strengthened by
some of the inhabitants, who are in the habit of alarming
Pstrangers concerning the climate; but I^vas afterwards in-
[formed, by a judicious medical gentleman, that there would
be few days warmer than this, and that the weather would
be, upon the whole, much cooler. This opinion I found
to be correct, for in a few days the thermometer fell beloW
70°, and it seldom rose above 85° while I continued in
Savannah.
The next circumstance that made a forcible impression
upon me was the great difference between this place, and
any other I had ever seen before. There was no distant
view — ^no extemd object to amuse the fancy— the whole
cduBtry round, north, south, east, and west, >vas one
dull scene, which excited no interest; and the music of
the birds of heaven was exchanged for the dull croaking
of the bull-frog, and the shrill treble pipe of the musque-
toe. Nevertheless, I soon got familiarized to the place,
and even fond of it. My business, which %vas well organ-
VOL. I. B
n
TKAVBLft IN
ized, was succeeding to my wish, and the inhabitants, whom
I found very obliging, became every day m-^re amiable in
my eyes.
Savannah is situated in 32° 3' north latitude, on a
high sandy bank, or ;bl|iff> on the;scmt^ side of the Savan-
nah river, 17 miles from the sea. The city is Imd out on
an elegant plan, and is about a mile in lengdi from east to
west, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth. It con-
sists of 30 streets, 16 squares, and 6 lanes, containing about
1000 houses, and 5500 inhabitants; of whom about 2500
are slaves. The public buildings are a court-house, jail,
academy, bank-office, and five jdaces for public worship.
There has lately been built a very handsome exchange,
with a spire and observatory', from whence vessels maybe
seen out at sea: ,10 or 12 miles. . The situatioix of Savan-
nah is favourable, both for health and commerce. The
bluiF on which, it is built is fipm 50 to 70 feet high, so
that there is a fine descent tO; the river. , This bluff is a
bed of, very fine sand ; and by digging wells about 60
or 70 feet deep, a supply of CKcellent water is procured,
probably a filtration firom the river. The streets- are broad
and airy, and the city, being only 17 miles from the sea,
frequeiitly enjoys a Seabreeze, which is cool and refi*eshing
in the summer season. ;
The trade of the. city is cionsidcrable, and employs 13
regular ships to Britjain; 15 packet brigs and schooners to
New York; two or three to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and
Boston; two or three sloops to Charleston; and four or
five vessels to the West Indies. Besides these, there are
a number of vessels that (?ome fix)m the nortli\vard an-
nually, to take fiieight for Britain, and the continent of
Europe. • . ■ ^
■ im
|bal
^cot
■■i>i
are
GEORGIA. IT
27
The country in the vkinity contributes but little to the
supply of the city. To the south it is sandy dnd barnen
for a considerable distance. To' the north, eiist, and west^
considerable crops of rice are raised i but it is thbught that
the rice fields contribute to make the city unhealthy.^ Co(k
ton and rice are the staple comtnodities of the stiite;; jaitidi
Savannah being the only shipping port in itj'is^iof.coursQC^
[the general mart for the displosoliof lA]ese^>artsele6. iThie>.
[sea^isUnd cottoii of this slate, is lecktoed suiperior toanyv
[in America. The principal islands iviietie it is!raised arb
1st. Symons and Cumberland; ibutk as planted|Siid comes
ito maturity, in all the other islands along the.jcopiSt^^om:
[Charleston south^vard, as rWell as on; mother .places of the
iboard, and is thence called ^a^oarJoo^tori, or^' i^:aomfi
)f my Scotsiit-iends would hsL\^itf:f^ smlri^oHww^yr'iJijh^
exports from the state amount to above two millions of
^dollars annually; besides what is carried coastwise, which
[is not entered at the custom-house, and which may \pro4
bably amount to as much more. The great value is in
; cotton, and the whole centres in Savannali. The imports
are from Europe, the West Indies, and the northern states,
iuid consist of dry goods, hardware, groceries, flour, &c. ;
imd it is presumed they are neai'ly equal in value to the
[exports. Supposing the aggregate to be 8,000,000 dol-
lars, and allow 7 per cent, commission to the Savannali
merchants, the result will be 560,000 dollars, as the an*i,.
nual income of Savannah, which may perliaps be preife*^ ,
near the truth. ^
Savannah river is one of the most important in America.
Its head waters consist of two small rivers which rise near
the njountains, and form a junction about 220 miles from
the sea ; from thenre it runs a south-east course, and falls
2ft
fTRAVBLS m
into the bccan IT^miles below Savannah. It receives se-
veral small streams in its progress, and is the boundary
line between Georgia and South Carolina, during its whole
course. It is navigable for ships of any burden to within
three miles of Savannah; for ships of 250 tons to Savan-
nah; and for boats of 100 feet keel to Augusta. Above
Augusta, are the Rapids, and, after passing them, the river
can be navigated 80 miles higher, in small boats, to the
junction of 1^ head waters. It may be remarked, that
through the medium of this river a considerable part of
the produc^JBtf .South Carolina is carried to the Savannah
-^^Rlfe liver abounds with fish, and the water is soft and
good; but die country on its banks is by no means
healthy, especially in the lower part of the state.
ihkl j!^ 'l:)iiR*\-»;H(;r>ffu>if i/.
'•-|.'^.iL,.
c-.4*»^03;
.1.
^;t, m^
GEOBOU.. r
29
eives sc-
x)undary
its whole
to within.
;o Savan-
Above
, the river
ts, to the
ked, that
le port oi*
Savannah
1 1< . . . »
s soft .and
lo means
.w.4.~ 1,
.tU
w
CHAPTER IV.
-,. . ...... ,. ....... M.S. ,Ui. -.4- . ■
xl AVING aitanged my afllairs in Savannah, and confi-
ded the management of the business to a trusty assistant,
I resolved, in pursuance of my original plan, to make a
tour to the upper country, for the purpose oi* acc^oiring
information, and forming connexiohs. The season was
£u* advanced for travelling, in that country, but I trusted
to a good constitution and temperate habits ; and finding
a gentleman about to go to- Augusta, I resolved to avail
myself of his company. I accordingly purchased a horse,
for which I paid 118 dollars, saddle and bridle includ^^
and, having every thing prepared, we set out at mid-day,
on Friday, June 27th. We took the Augusta road, and
at two miles from Savannah, we passed the branch which
leads to Louisville. A litde beyond this there is a fine
spring of pure water, much fi^quented by the inhabitants
of Savannah in ths summer season. Seven miles from
Savannah we met two travellers, who informed us that
the cre&ks^ were all swelled to a great height, and the
bridges broken down, so that we could not possibly
get along. The road was, indeed, far fh)m inviting.
There had been a long series of rainy weather, and the
afternoon was very sultry; but we resolved to go through,
* This term is, in the United Stttesj applied to small rivers or
rivulets.
30
travbls in
if possible, aiid uccordingly kept on our course. Two
miles Irom wherc we met the travellers, we reached the*
iirst obstacle, called Pipemaker's Creek. The bridge
was nearly gone, but we adjusted the rafters a little, and
with some difficulty tq^ our hors^ over. After trdvelling
tliree miles more, we reached Austin's Creek, and here,
the bridge being entii^ly gone, \^e swum, our horses
across. A mile further on we reached Black Creek, the
largest and most dai^erous of the tliree. ^ Ijt had swielled
to a great extent; .in, tlic middle the .cup^nt, wqs rapidj
and tlie bridge was iii;a very shattered- ^o^^^^"* ^^
liad.tp wade waUi, our horses nearly he)ly flcepi, above
200 yards, before we c£|mc to the bridge, ahfl here alight-
i^>g, I walked along, ,up to the knees in water^ adjusting
the rafters as .wqll as I cpuld, an(^ tlien , with considerably
difficulty led my hox'i^e over:, a pomitrypjan, .whom we
came up with at the bridge, attfmpted to follow my ex-
ample, but luis ! }>oi'se f^jU tlirough, and ^vas. nq^r ^tMsing
lost. I pitied the pooi* man, who was in great affliction
for his crature^ as he call^4 ^P hof'se; but ^ye agisted
him, and with considerable, difficulty got, the creature, re-
lieved. My fellowTtravel)er d^cliiied following our exa^l-
pie, and, stri^jping liis horse, he, swam.. him through, thp
creek, himself walking along, the remains of the shattered
bridge. After passing the bridge, we had ag^to wade
about 200 yards before we reaolied dry land; aiid, a little
beyond the creek, we arrived at Hely's inn, where we
stopped foi' dinner. Here we found the Augusta stage
and passengers. They had set out two hours before us,
and, liaving the same obstacles to encounter as ourselves,
liad been detauied thus long. Our dimier consisted of
fowls, bacon, eggs, butter, wheat bread, Indian com
GEORGIA.
»
e. Two
iched thi'
le bridge
ittle, and
trdvellin^'
and here,
yg: horses
reek, the
d swielled
7^s nipidj
on; We
;p, above
Te
adjustmg
nsiderablp
kvhom we
^v my ex-
b^ing
affliction
|e a^sted
•qture, re-
lur exapi-
|oiigh. thp
shattered
to wade
|d, a little
here wc
sta stage
fore us,
lurselves,
sisted of
ian com
bread, rice, and homony. The last mentioned dish I had
not seen bolore, and it is not generally known. It is
made of Indian com cleared of the husk, . and broken by
beating, but not very small ; it is then boiled in MTitcr to
the consistence of pudding, and served up for use. When
wgW prepared, it is very palatable, and is wholesome nutri-
tive food. A little cherry brandy was the only liquor we
could get. The cliarge for man and horse was 75 cents.
Leaving Hely*s, we travelled two. miles, wlien my fel-
low-traveller stopped to point out the spot where two ne-
groes were executed for killing an overseer. The one
was hanged, and tlie other was burnt to death. I was in-
formed that this mode of punishment is sometimes inflict-
ed on negroes, when the crime is very flagrant, to deprive
them of the mental consolation arising from a hope that
they will after death return to their own country. . This
may be good policy, as respects the blacks ; but, in mercy
to tlic white people, I.wisli it could be a>'oided. Wh^*ji I
looked at the scorched tree where the man had been tied,
and observed the fragments of his bones at the foot of it,
I M'as horror-stmck ; and I never yet can think of the
scene witliout a pang. What feelings must have been
excited in those who saw the execution ! Thirteen miles
beyond this we reached Berry's tavern, 28 miles from Sa-
vannah, and here we stopped for the night.
The afternoon was sultry, and, in consequence of the
heavy rains, the road was very bad. The first 13 miles
we were quite enveloped in thick pine ^voods, with verj-
little brush-wood. The soil is^poor and sandy, so that
there are few settlements. The last 15 miles were rather
more pleasant, and there are more settlements; but the
32
TRAVBL8 IN
country is level, abounding with marshes^ musquetoeu,
and bull-frogs ; and tlic soil continues poor and sandy.
Saturday, 28th June, we rose at three o'clock and set
tied our bill, which amounted to one dollar and thirty-one
cents each ; and travelled through a barren, swampy, un.
pleasant tract, 10 miles, ^vhen wo stopped to breakfast at
the house of a Major King. We were detained a long
time here ; but we were well compensated by getting an
excellent breakfast, and the view of the place was far su-
perior to any thing we had seen since we left Savannah.
It is situated on an eminence, the ground cleared for a
considerable way round, and there is a clear rivulet in the
neighbourhood, a thing uncommon in the low country ;
such streams being generally choaked up by brushwood,
and converted into swamps.
After leaving King's, the country rises a little, but it is
still poor and sandy. We travelled 10 miles to Scrogg*s,
pnd the day being exceedingly hot, we stopped here for
dinner. Hearing the noise of a wheel up stairs, which
was the first I had heard in America, I went to sec What
was going on. Here I saw a black girl carding cotton,
and a daughter of the landlord spinning the rolls on the
large wheel. They were quite busy, and appeared to be
industrious and liappy. After coming down stairs I en-
tered into conversation with the mistress of the house,
whom I found to be a sensible woman, and sufficiently
communicative. She informed me, that they, as well as
all the other families in the neighbourhood, spun cotton
all the year round, and got the yam woven into every ar-
ticle necessary for family use ; such as sheeting, \shirting,
toweling, table-cloths, gowns, petticoats, aprons, caps;
pantaloons, vesting, and summer coats for the men's use ;
OKOROIA.
'86
usquetoeb,
i sandy.
;k and 8e^
thirty-one
ampy, un-
>iieakfast at
ned a long
getting an
was far su-
Savannah,
leared for a
f\f\et in the
IV country ;
brushwood,
bcaidet sofa-clothes, fringes, tassels, hosiery, &c. I ex-
amined the yam and cloth, and found the fabrics sMbstan-
tial and durable. The cloth was neatly nuuiu&ctured, and
some of the articles were handsome. I saw that this fiunily
was " independent of commerce ;" and this was the first
impression that I received as to the importance of the
fhmeatic mant^acturea of America. The idea was novel,
d its tendency was to militate against my interest as an
importer ;• yet I cannot say but that the feelings excited by
t were of the pleasing kind. Self-interest is a proper
principle, but it should be so regulated as not to blunt
|the feelings of humanity, nor to make us repine at the
ell-being of others.
Leaving this comfortable cabin we travelled two mile%
hen, coming to a grocery store, we lighted to quench
thirst ; the afternoon being excessively hot and sultry.
ere we saw a lady from Savannah, who, having lost two
hildren in that city, had retired here with the third, the
nly one she had left. The child appeared to be thriving,
d I hope will live to -reward the mother for her maternal
The Georgian ladies appear to be very fond of
hildren, and, in the country at least, they seem to be suf-
ciently prolific ; for we hardly ever passed a house with-
ut seeing a cluster of young ones ; and often a child at
breast of a mother, whom, judging from external ap.
ipearance, I would have reckoned past child-bearing.
We travelled eight miles further, through a country
nearly similar to that we had passed, to Pearce^s; and
here we stopped for the night.
This is one of the most pleasant places I had yet seen;
in Georgia. There are three plantations adjoining, so
that the country is cleared for a considerable way pound ;
^,
VOL. I.
ti
TRAVELS IN
and being a little elevated, it is free from swamps, and
tolerably healthy. Here we saw a number of starlings,
and heard several mocking-birds, whose notes were very
delightful. We retired to rest at nine o'clock ; but I was
so overcome, with fatigue, that I enjoyed little repose.
Sunday, 29th June. We set out at five o'clock in the
morning, and, traveling 11 miles through pine woods,
and a barren sandy soil,, we passed Beaverdam creek by
a 'wooden bridge, and arrived at the village of Jacksoinbo-
rough. It is situated on the north side of the creek, and
consist^ oi about 12 dwelling houses, a church, and jail.
The situation is unhealthy on the creek, but the land is
considerably elevated behind the town, and is said to be
quite healthy. ' The view was gratifying to me, being the
^rst rising ground I had seen in the United States.
We travelled nine miles beyond this to Burrel's, to
breakfast. The country is completely barren, and covered
with pine trees, without any brushwood, the whole way,
but the air was elastic and agreeable. It is a common re-
mark in Georgia, tliat the pine lands are healthy ; and the
circumstance may probably be accounted for by suppo-
sing, that the resinous particles of the pine may contribute
to 'increase the oxygen of the atmosphere j whjle, the
wopds being generally on barren ground, no pernicious
gases £ffe generated uncongenial to the human system.
A great portion of the subsistence of the human body, is
received by breathing. The atmosphere is principally
composed of two fluids, oxygen and azote, in the propor-
tion of nearly three-fourths of the latter to one-fourth of
the former. It is the oxygen that supports animal life.
in respiration it is absorbed by the lungs, and combines
wi^ the blood, which give? it its florid colour ; while the
In
■t> of 1
the
wat
5
GE'^SGIA.
Sir
"amps, and
f stairlings,
I wete very
; but I was
repose. *
lock in the
>ine woods,
1 creek by
Jacksonbo-
creek, and
h, and jail,
the land is
s said to be
% being the
tates.
Burrel's, to
md covered
whole way,
common re-
ly; and the
by suppo-
contribute
while, the
pernicious
an system.
an body, is
piincipally
the propor-
le-fourth of
mimal life.
I combines
while the
azote is thrown out by the return of the breathing. There
are other fluids which mmgle occasionally with the atmo-
sphere, the principal of which is hydrogen, which is gene-
rated freely by the decomposition of vegetable and animal
matter in water ; and this fluid is not simply unfit for res-
piration in a negative sense — it is positively noxious. Hence
that state of the atmosphere which contains oxyg^ in the
^proper prop(»tion, and where there is no pther gas, except
azote, must be the fittest for respiration; and, from a
consideration of these circumstances, we may see the rea-
son why high IiilLy countries, or well-drained low coun-
tries, are healthy — ^while crowded cities, abounding iq
^ filth j and low marshy situations in the country, are the
Ifeverse.-— From this reasoning we may draw the following
ipractical de4uctions. ^^..^^
1st. Cities should be so constructed, as to admit a cur-
rent of fi^e air into every spot. They should be kept
very clean ; and no stagnant \vater, or latent filth, should
be allowed to accumulate in or about them,
2d. Low countries, when fixed upon as th^ re^denct
of man, should be drained ; or, if that be impracticable,
the houses should be as %^rppoyed fix)||i iijl stagnant
water as possible.
3d. In those diseases which are the effect of breathing
impure m, perhaps it would be beneficial to administer
oxygen to the lungs as a medicine. The use of vinegar
in diseases of this kind is well known. It is almost wholly
composed of oxygen, and it parts with.it freely ; so thaj
on sprinkling a sick chamber with it, an odour immedi-
ately rises, which is both grateful apd beneficial to the pa-
tient. Several plants have the same, effect, particularly
those having an acid snidk I uus once recovered fi-om
SB
TRAVELS la
V
feinting by tlie applicatkAi of southernwood. I had been
aifected by breathing air deprived of its oxygen in a
crowded church. The oxygen of the plant supplied the
defect, and relieved me*
V Having break&sted, we pursued our journey il miles
through a country nearly similar to that already described,
but rather in an improving state, to where the road forks ;
the right branch leading to Augusta, the left to Waynesbo-
rough. We took that towards Waynesborough, on which
the country improves rapidly. In place of pine barrens,
swamps, and muddy creeks, we had now an elevated dry
road, agreeaWy uneven, and adorned on each Side with
natural woods, consisting of pine, oak, hickory, and black-
jack. The underwood was pretty thick and bu^y ; in-
dicadng a considerable degree of fertility. Seven miles
from where we left the Augusta road we reached vridow
Laseter's, where we stopped to dinnw, and were hospita-
bly entertained. The healthiness of die place was visible
in the countenances of the family, among whom were two
pretty little girls.
A little before we reached this place we passed a
church, which we ^ve^e informed belongs to the metho-
dists. This sect has been long established in Georgia,
and the zeal with' which they have propagated their opi-
nions, and enforced the principles of morality amongst
jkheir votaries, does them credit. They have been of con-
siderable use in society, and I wish them success in every
good work. But I cannot see the propriety of some of
their proceedings. Their camp meetings may be very
well meant, and may be calculated to do some good;
but they are a species of " holy fair" at which ** grace"
is not the only commodity to be purchased ; and, fix>m tjhe
GEORCilA.
Srt
had been
^gen in a
pplied the
y 11 miles
described,
■oad forks ;
iV"aynesbo-
[i, on which
ne barrens,
levated dry
i side with
and black-
bu^y; in-
teveh miles
hed widow
sre hospita-
was visible
a were two
}me good;
«* grace'*
., fix)mthe
!>. -7
mode in which they are frequeWed by the profane and
Ae profligate, it is questionable whether the evil attending
them does not overbalance the good. And I can see as
little sense in the practice tliey often have of thumping
and making a noise in the time of divine service, thereby
converting the temple of the Lord into a scene of confu-
sion and discord, exciting the laughter of the profane,
rand distracting the serious; We were informed that a lit-
tle before we reached this place, a poor girl was so affect-
ed, that she fell down in a fit; and that a black female
preacher, of the name of Dorothy Ripley, frequently at>
tended, and had the art of playing upon the passions so
effectually, that she would sometimes trip half a dozen of
ler hearers. " Let all things be done decently and in
•der," says the apostle. Let the meithodists go and do
likewise. *
While we were speaking, we saw a crowd of men, wo-
moi, and children, who had been at a baptist camp n^det*
ing. The baptists are said to be one of the most nume-
rous and influential religious societies in the state. They
are also zealous in propagating their opinions, and arp
pretty austere in their manners ; but I did not hear of any
excesses in their camp meetings or churches.
Leaving Mrs. Laseter's, we travelled four miles to
Waynesborough, and lodged at the house of Mr. Wynne ;
who to the business of tavern-keeper joins that of post-
tnaster.
Waynesborough is built principally on one street,
and consists of about 40 dwelling houses, church, jail,
academy, and court-rooms. It contmns 220 inhabitants,
of whom above one half are slaves. The land in its vici-
nity is pretty good ; is cultivated a considerable way
38
TBAVELB IN
round; and there are in its neighbourhood some very
wealthy planters. It is distant from .Savannah river 12
miles, and has a considerable trade in dry goods and gro-
ceries.
Having spent a day in this place, and parted with my
fellow-traveller, who took the road to Augusta, I set out
for Louisville on Tuesday the 1st of July, at five o'clock
in the morning. Five miles from Waynesborough I came
to a fine sprmg, and descended a considemble way by a
stony path to a rivulet, on which I heard the sound of
several mills. The sound of machinery is always grate-
ful to my ear, and the view of the stones excited no small
degree of interest ; being the first that I had seen in the
United States. After travelling nine miles further, through
a barren country, I came to a deserted church, where the
road forks. Itook the wrong road, which led me out of
my course among a number of plantations. I found the
inhabitants were principally Irish people, by one of whom
I was informed of my mistake, and got directions as to
the best method of rectifying it. The family were at
breakfast, consisting of pork, potatoes, and coffee ; and I
was hospitably invited to partake, but I declined it; and,
pursuing the directions received, I soon reached the wag-
gon road from Savannali, and arrived 2^t Louisville^ at 10
o'clock.
*fi-.
CO
IT' ha
■V7i ' ■" "j ' * ■' itrt.y'^.-r-
%■
GBOROU.
39
d with my
, I set out
ive o'clock
ugh I came
e way by a
le sound of
svays grate-
ed no small
seen in the
ler, through
I, where the
i me out of
[ found the
le of whom
actions as to
ily were at
iffee; and I
led it; and,
4 the wag-
iviUe, at 10
■^
CHAPTER V.
Louisville.
Louisville is the present capital of the state of
Georgia, and is situated on the north-east bank of the Ogfe-
chee river, 70 miles from its outlet, and 100 miles west
from Savannah. It consists of about 100 dwelling houses,
'and contains about 550 inhabitants, of whom nearly one
lalf are slaves. It is built on an elevated situation, and
there is a pretty extensive vjew to the westward; but con-
kderable marsh effluvia is generated on the banks of the
river, which renders the place rather unhealthy. The
country in the neighbourhood is well cultivated; and
Louisville contains a civil, well-bred society. There are ten
dry-good and grocery stores in the place, and they have
a considerable inland trade. J^ouisyille is at present the
seat of government, but it is about to be removed to Mil-
ledgeville, a new setdement, about 50 miles distant.
It was my intention to go further up the country, and I
had everything prepared for that purpose; but in the
evening I was suddenly seized with a fever, which defeat-
ed my object, and at one time threatened very serious
consequences. The day had been uncommonly hot and
sultry ; the thermometer stood as high as 93i° in the shade.
In the evening there was a cool thunder gust, and the
night got very close and sultry. I went to bed early ; but
I had sparcely lain down wherf I found tlie fever come on
i
J
4l^ TRAVELS IN
with extreme violence. I was in danger of suffocation,
and ran to the window to get fresh air; but all was still;
there was not a breath of air stirring. I observed three
beds in the room empty, and thought I would try an ex-
periment. I wrapped myself up in a blanket, and taking
all the clothes of the three bedsj I threw them over me. I
had a small bottle of Madeira wine prepared for the journey,
of which I took a little, and laid it at my head. My pulse
rose to 130, and I suffered the most excruciating pain for
about half an hour, when a profuse perspiration broke out
and relieved me. I |)artook freely of the wine, and k6pt
up the ^x^rspiration until morning, when the fever was
quite gone; but I was debilitated to such a degree that I
could hardly stand. ^
On getting up, I judged it expedient to take medical
advice, and applied to a Dr. Powell, who prescribed some
medicme, and advised me to decline going further up the
country at present, the season being quite too far advanced
for travelling. He recommended to stop two or three
days in Louisville, and then to cross over to Augusta by
the way of Richmond Springs, where I could st(^ a few
days, and in case I found I could not travel from Augusta
on horseback, I could take the stage. This advice I re-
solved to follow, and made my arrangenlents accordinglyv
Having, in consequence of this determination, a tittie
time to spare, I wished to apply it to the best advantage,
and I was kindly assisted by my friend Dr. Powell. He
invited me to his house, and introduced me to Mrs. Pow-
ell, a very sensible judicious lady, by whom I was treated
with marked attention.
The doctor and his lady gave me every information
that could be desired, and I was finally invited to take <a
Ht&?
i^i
at
inl
ml
f
GEORGIA.
M
suffocation,
1 was still ;
Tved three
try an ex-
and taking
>ver me. I
le journey,
My pulse
ng pain for
I broke out
3, and k6pt
fever was
igree that I
ike medical
ribed some
ther up the
r advanced
Q or three
ugusta by
stc^) a few
Augusta
vice I re-
cordinglyv
n, a Utde
dvantage,
ell. He
rs. Pow-
treated
formation
to take .a
bed at their house, by which means I was relieved fipom
the bustle of a public tavern, and the still more disagree-
able sting of the musquetoes with which the bedrooms
in it were infested.
On Friday, the 4th of July, I had quite recovered from
my indisposition, and walked out in the morning to see
tlie state-house. It is a good building of brick, about 50
t square, and consists of two stories, having three ap-
ents each, and a large lobby. The house of repre-
sentatives meet in an apartment on the lower floor, and
le other two are occupied as the secretary's office, and the
d office. The upper story consists of the senate cham-
r, the executive office, and the treasury. The offices
ere all shut, except the land office. I went into it, and
w a map of the newly acquired territory, or purchase^ as
is called; concerning which the legislature had recently
sed an act that was the subject of considerable animad-
ersion in the state. >
This tenitory is situated between the Oakmulgee, and
cpnee rivers; and was lately acquired in exchange with
lene of the Indian tribes. The land is said to be rich and
'^^yaluable; and it is very extenave, consisting 'of about 10(1
cts, of 12 miles by 8. It is to be disposed of by lot-
ry, in whicli every citizen dT jthe United States, who has
sided three years in Georgia, is entitled to a draw for
200 acres; and those who g^tthe prizes have to pay 12
dollars, being the expense of suryqring only.
This I regard as a very impr^^ way of disposing of
public property, and it i^M||!uliarly baneful to practise it
under the representative «^» PrcfiKFty, when public,
belongs to every meniber|«|||^^p^niiii|Mty, and no alie-
nation ought to take place i!Hilli||||||^uring alike the rights
VOL. r. is '^
'^ .
TRAVELS IK
of all. But this can never be done by a lottery, which is
a game of chance, and all cannot be gainers. To the gainer
it ia more than well. He gets an advantage over his nei|^
bour, and is satisfied; but who indemnifies the loset'? .^
In this case, would it not have been better for the stiite
to have retained it, and sold it out at the market price?
The funds arising from it might have been usefully applied
in making roads and bridges, in improvmg the navigation
of rivers, draining marshes, &c. Legislators have a most
impoitant trust reposed in them, and should never sacrifice
great national objects to obtain temporary popularity^
This being the anniversary of American kidependendti
the day was ushered in by the firing of great guns^ and
military companies had collected in Jjouisville, frotti iht
whole Country rounds On my return to the taverUf I
found a considerable number of the military assembled
there. I was waited on by a committee of tlie drtiUery
company, and received a very polite invitation to dine wi^
them, which I accepted with pleasure, being anxious to
observe the mode of celebrating this day, so important in
the anmds of America.
About 3 o'clock we sat down to dinner. The captain
took his phce at the head of the table, the oldert lieutenant
at the fi)ot; the committee* gave the different orders, and
all <were on an equal footing. ^Several of die state officers
dined with them.
After dinner they drank Madeira wine to a series of toasts,
one for each state, wM^ had been {H^vibusly prepared.
Among the numberiiere '^'^pifywe celebrate ;'^'^illic
land we live in;"l«IThe 0g^^'o£ the United States;"
*' Memoiy of gefieNl VPiA^^i^.'' *< Memory of B^^
min Franklitfi^,^' M^a i iii if oha Pdrce," Uq. Each
OBOIGIA.
4&
foaft was followed by a discharge of artillery, and tha mu^c
played an appropriate air. A number of excellent songs
were sung, and the afternoon was spent with great convi*
viallty and good humour.
Haying s^\cral calls to make in the town, I left the table
early, but returned again in the evening, when I found that
the cordial drcp had added greatly to the elevation of the
animal spirits of the company. They had also received
an addition to their number, by several military officers
high in command, among whom was major-general Jack-
son* Having OGcasbn to give a toast, I availed myself of
that opportunity to impress them with favourable senti-
ments towards my native country. America had been
long regarded with a jealous eye by the councils of Bri-
tB&Kit and an almost total alienation of affection was the conse^
quence. I knew that Mr. Fox*s administration was favoiO'.
ably disposed towards America, and I was inclined,^ as
&r as I had opportunity, to impress the Americans with
thitf^ belief' Accordingly, after thanking the company for
the honour they luul conferred upon me, and assuring them
of my own friendly r^ard forc^e country, I proposed a$
a toast, ** Mr« Fox, and the independent whigs of Britaim
May their joinl endeavours wkh the government of the
United 8t«tes be the means Of reconciling the iUffbences
between the two countries; and to. die latest posterify may
Americana and Britons hail one another as brothers and as
firiends." This was cordially received, and drank accord-
ingly s and immediately af^r I was introduced to and po-
litely received by the visiting officers.
^ The whole of my obseryatbns in this place tended to
convince me^ that the Amcs^Gflo. character was very ndif-
ferently undeistpod in Britainrr and, indeed, v^ry much
m
TBAYBLS IN
misrepresenled. I was satisfied, from every thin^ I saw
and heard) that there was no animosity against the British
people whatever; and that the animosity against the British
government was the consequence of what they conceive to
be a series of injuries long persevered in, and some of
them even justified on the score of priv^ege. ' ' ^ v "^
.{Great mistakes may be committed, by judging of Utit
American chaiBcter lirdm what is to be seen in the sea-
ports. Nothing can be more erroneous than a judgment
so formed. The commercial cities of America are like
those of other countries, and principle is often sacri5ced
at the shrine of commerce ; while a considerable partidf
the commerce of the United States is carried on. by fo-
refers, each so anxious to extend the trade; with his
mtive country^ in. which he is most interested, that the
tone cif national sentiment i^ often lost, or but indistinctly
seeft, in the conflicting opinions which are every day pro^
mulgated. - \ . ■..'Kicnl ■ .-.'riiji^K ; t^M'siil " 'i';-^
'.r^'iTQ view the American character iairiy, we mustigo intd
the linterior of the . country,: -and there the i first remark 'will
probably be, that the inhabitants; have a 'spirit of indepeh-
denoe;<and wiU' brook inc^ superiority^ ,£vtr3»hiati is cotii.
scious of his own- political importance, :and wiitt sufifer none
to treat' hun wi^h disrespects) Nor i& this dispoaitioii taa^
fined t)i(>i one rank; > it jpervades the whole, and id probabty
the bctst gtiarantee ior the continuance of the liberty and
independence of the country. Hi: -[yf^o ' ' ' ' ' i ji i6«*i:
Itha^ been remarked, th^t this disposition' njayeneoti^^
rage rudeness; but I havemojt yet seen it« *' As the^people
will bcind to no superiority^ they really afiect lioiie/; and I
am impressed with theibelief,ithat it. is a stranger's own
fault, if;l»e does not f<^:yefyihap^ among them. ;
//
^ OEORUIAj^ »'
45
Stkttirday, July 5th. I left Louisville at 5 o'clock
in the morning, and travelled through a barren, sandy
country, twenty miles to breakfast. From thence, I tra-
velled eight miles more, through pine woods, to Richmond
Springs, which I reached to dinner. Towards the springs,
the country gets elevated, and agreeably uneven ; but the
soil is miserably poor. The springs have no other medi-
cinal quality than what is conferred by limestone, of which
there is here a considerable bed ; and there is a fine rivu-
let, which Mr. Posner, the proprietor, has very judiciously
diverted into a bathing-house ; and, at a great expence,
ha«! converted the whole into bathing quarters, ^vith amplp
accommodations. I staid two days at this place, and found
my situation very comfortable. I lia^ an opportunity of
bathing in the piire spring water orice or twice a-day, ^d
had limestone water, pure from thei'itick, to drink. Our
victuals were good, and the cookery excellent. My health
I found re-established, and my spirits recruited ; so that
every thing concurred to render the place agreeable.
And yet this place, which might be so beneficial to
Georgia, is neglected. Mrs. Posner is a woman of co-
!aur, and is disliked by the Georgian ladies, who will not
go to her house. Where the ladies will not go, the gen-
tlemen will not go, and so poor Mr. Posner does not get
a prc^r reward for his exertions, and tlie Georgians lose
the benefit of one of the sweetest summer retreats in all
the country.
I was really sorry to learn this tale, for I was exceed-
ingly well pleased with . madam Posner's attention. The
old man is a sort of poet too^ and, though his rhymes arc
not to be compared with those *of Pope or. Milton, yet
they are humorously recited, and in a dialect that never fails
^'^
u
TBAVBLt Vsr
to excite risibility. He JUtvoured me with a oopy qf ver-
lies, which he addressed to a little swindliiig Jew of my ac-
quaintance in Savannah, who, he said, had cheated him;
and of which the concluding stanaa will be sufficient to
satisfy the reader of his poetical powers.
But it lurely was a great sin,
To send me common whisky in place of Hollands gin.
7*he worst remuns behlndr^
To send me common Malaga, in place of good Madeira wine* '
•"it -
Monday, July 7th. Set out for Augusta, at 4 o'clock
in the morning. The road, which is pretty good» runs
through a hilly, uncultivated tract of country, on which
there are some settlements, with several creeks, and saw
and grist mills. I reached Augusta, which is mteen
miles from the springs, at 9 o'clock.
LV,
rTiat,':*«r.-,i.v
:•*'
M»MBOIA«
47
CRAPT£Il VI.
AuguHdr^South Carolma^'^Savanna/t.
Augusta U situated on a htuWUdme plain^ <m the
south side of Savannah River, 127 mites from Savannah,
and contains about 3400 inhabitants, of whom above one**
half Btt slaves* The public buildings are, two churches^
an academy, a court-house, jail, a market-house, and se-
veral public warehouses* The town is at the head of
large boat navigation, and carries on a very extensive and
profitabte trade, both with Savannah and the baqk coun-
try* Many of the merchants are wealthy, and import their
goods; and the greater part of the others purchase in
New York. The town was originally settled by emigranti
from Scotland; but the society is now very mixed, and
probably those of Irish extraction are the most numerous.
The inhabitants are in general Well-kiformed, and have a
GonMderabk taste for literature. They are affiible in their
deportment, and polite and hospitable to strangers.
The country round Augusta is agreeably diversifiedi
and wdl cultivated. The whole plain, on which Augusti^
stands, is remarkably fertile; and towards the south-west)
the country rises into cOnsideralde hills, interspersed with
fertile pkdns, remarkably favourable for the culture of cbt-*
ton ; and the cotton plantations^ are in a very thriving states
This is reckoned the boundary between the high and
low country. The falls in ,the river are three miles above
Augusta, and immediately on leaving tlie town for the
westward, the great contrast between this and the low
country is seen : in place of swamps, marshes, and sandy
deserts, the senses are gratified by high rising grounds,
rich verdure in the wobds, and cleai* streams of water.
I remained in Augusta from the 7th to the- 14th of
July, during which period, I made several little excursions
to the country, to see the cotton plantations, the greater
part of which were in a thriving state. The river is here
500 yards broad, and very deep ; and I found the trade
^ upon it to exceed my expectations. The weather was hot
and sultry, the thermometer varying from 88** to 94",
though OL day it fell as low as 72". I was well pleased
v/ith the civilities of the inhabitants, and I left Augusta
W'^ with sentiments of friendly regard towarvis them.
, * A Mr. Scarborough, of Nortti Carolina, gave me a very
wai'm invitation to visit him when J was in the tipper
country, and I resolved to cross the Savannah River, and
return by his place. I accordingly left Augusta on the
14th of July, at 11 o'clock, and, travelling about three
miles through the level plain on which the city stands, I
crossed the river by a flat boat. I'he road rises, on the
Carolina side, to a considerable emlneiice, but the soil is
poor and sandy. At five miles from tlie river, I called at
a very handsome plantation, belonging to a Mr. Taylor,
by whom I was hospitably detained to dinner. A planter
from the neighbourhood was there, and, as his plantation
Jay on my route, I availed myself of his company, and had
a very agreeable ride, of twelve miles, to the saw-mill aiid
store of a Scots gentleman, where I stopped for the night.
SOUTH^^RC^tlNA.
49
On the 15th, at day-break, I proceeded on my journey,
through a low, s^vampy, barren country, where the road
forked so often, that I travelled with difficulty ; but, after
missing my way several times, I reached Mr. Scarbo-
rough's, at 11 o'clock, where I found a most hospitable
welcome.
On my way, I passed many creeks and saw-mills, and
I learned that a considerable trade, in this part of the
country, consists in sawing timber into boards and planks, .
called lumber^ and floating them down the riv^er to jl*
market. '^'^
Mr. Scarborough has a very comfortable establishment,
consisting of a good farm, a store, and saw-mill; and, be-
ing much respected, has the best trade in this part of the
country. On going into the store, I was surprised to ob-
serve the vast variety of articles it contained ; consisting
of diy-goods, groceries, hardware, earthenware, medicinis, *
&c. I was informed, that the mode of doing business
was to give a credit to the planters till the crop was ready
for market, and then to take their suiplus produce, c6n-
sistihg principally of cotton, in payment. The business
was conducted by a discreet Englishman, and they had
an excellent run ; but I learned that country stores had
multiplied to such an extent, that the business was over-
done generally, and people would need to be very cautious
in dealing with country merchants.
Having been most hospitably entertained by this ^imily,
for two days, I took my departure for Savannah, on
Thursday, 17th July, and rode 28 miles throu^ a very
barren country, containing few settlements, to the house
of a Mrs. Dunn, where I stopped for the nig^t.
yoL. I. G
50
TRAVELS IN
' Friday, 18th. Set out at daylight, and travelled through
a more dismal country than any that I had yet seen.
From Mrs. Dunn's to Sister's ferry, on the Savannah ri-
ver, 14 miles distant, tliere is hardly a single settlement.
The country is j^erfectly level, except towards the river,
where there are a few sand-hills; the woods are mostly
pine, and I found some settlements had been attempted,
and abandoned by the settlers. At one of these, I met
with a considerable disappointment : I came to a fork of
the road, and, seeing a plantation at a distance, I rode to
it, to inquire the right way ; but, lo ! on my arrival there,
I found it inhabited by goats only.
I arrived at the river about nine o'clock, and crossed
the feiTy in a flat boat. The river is here about 250
yards broad, and flows with a majestic sweep. I tra-
I veiled i^arly a mile through a muddy swamp, in which
the horse was frequently up to the knees, and I wvls
much annoyed by musquetoes. From this swamp, the
ground rises abruptty, to a considerable elevation, and
bears evident marks of having been at one time the bank
of the river. From hence I travelled about a mile,
when I came into the Savaniiali road, not far from King's
tavem, mentioned in the fourth chapter. I found the Sa-
vannah road now dry and good, and I travelled on with
great expedition to BeiTy's, where, tlie day being very hot
and sultr)', I proposed to remain for tlie night.
Towards two o'clock, the weather became cool, with
an east wind, and I set out for Savannah ; but I had not
travelled far, when I saw all the signs of an approaching
storm'. To the east, the atmosphere was black and dis-
mal ; the wind was irregular, jmd sometimes whistled vio-
lently ; I could see the lightning flash in the clovtds, and
^ttEORGIA.
51
heard the thunder roar at a distance; but I was tempted
by the coolness of the air to proceed, and observing that
the settlements were pretty thick by the way side, I rel
solved not to take shelter until there was an absolute ne-
cessity. While I was meditating thus, I was suddenly
and dreadfully alarmed. A stream of electric fluid, ap-
parently as thick as a man's wrist, darted suddenly from
a black cloud, almost right over my head, and dividing
in the middle of the road, a few yards before me, stoiick
the trees on each side, with a shock Avhich made the
whole woods ring. This was instantaneously followed by
such a peal of thunder, as made my horse spring two or
tlwee feet high. I rode with increased speed, resolved to
take shelter in the first house, but seeing no immediate
appearance of ram, I kept on my course to Dasher's, 20
miles from Savannah. Having stopped here some little
time, I observed tlie storm to spend its force in the east-
ward, and, being satisfied it was over, set out for Sav^-
nah ; and, after an agreeable ride, reached the city at seven
o'clock in the evening. I travelled, this day, 52 miles ;
and my wlrole journey was ab6ut 300. '
I remained in Savannah until the 27tli of Jiiffi The
weather was very hot and sultry, but the city continued
pretty healthy. I was surprised to observe the vast emi-
gration to the northward at this time, every vessel for New
York, Philiidelphia, Boston, or Bahimore, being quite
crowded with passengers. I had once an intention of
spending a few months on the sea islands, with a friend
from whom I had a very vrarm invitation ; but, in conse-
cjuence of letters from New York, I was indnrev"! to alter
my detcTm' nation, and go to that city.
52
TRAVELS OK
'(<' >
^<i.rt~,*
CHAPTER Vn.
*%.
Passage to New York.
JlAVING arranged my business, and fixed upon a plan
of correspondence with my friend in Savannah, I engaged
a passage on board the brig Sally, captain Ansdell ; passage
money 20 dollars, and stores about 28. My fellow-pas-
sengers were a Mr. M*Gee and Mr. Enoe, of Savannah ;
Mr. Sa3rre, of New York ; and a Mr. Scottj from the
West Indies.
We went on board, on Sunday morning, the 27th July,
at six o'clock, and at half past six set sail. The breeze
was light, butiair ; and, the tide being in our favour, we
glided down the river very pleasantly ; passed the light-
house at 11 o'clock, and at 12 crossed the bar, and dis-
charged the pilot. New York is distant from hence, by
calculation, 615 geogntphical miles, in a direct line; but
the projection of the coast at cape Hatteras obliges ves-
sels to steer considerably to the eastward, so that they
have to sail nearly 800 miles. They generally make sail
for the gulph stream in going north, that they may have
the benefit of the current.
We were favoured with a southerly wind, and kept a
course a little to the north of east, till we reached the lon-
gitude of 78°, when we steered a course nearly parallel to
the coast, about north-east. Here we were in the middle
of the gulph stream, which, by calculation, earned our
THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.
5ft
vessel 37 miles m 24 hours, which would be a current of
little more than a mile and a half an hour ; but it is gene-
rally supposed that the current, at this place, is upwards
of two miles.
We continued to have a fevourable breeze, and made
a good run, without meeting with any circumstance wor-
thy of remark, until Saturday, the 2d August, when we
experienced a very severe gale, which almost upset the
vessel. The wind, which had been hitherto from the
south and west, shifted to the south-east, and was accom-
panied by thick foggy weather. We were within 30 or
40 miles of Sandy Hook, and the wind was fair ; but the
gale encreased, and the weather was too thick to see a
pilot boat ; so that the captain judged it expedient to stand
out to sea. A gunboat was a little astern, and followed
our example. The gale encreased almost to a hurricane,
accompanied by thick rainy weather; the captain was
carrying as much sail as possible, so as to weather Long
Island, which, by calculation, was now but 20 miles to
leeward. Being a good deal accustomed to roug^ weather,
I was lolling in an aftt' -birth, looking out at the cabin
window, and beholding the effect of the gale on the
ocean : when, all of a sudden, I found the vessel heel to
leeward, and heard a great noise on deck. I started up
with an intention of going upon deck, but the vessel was
quite on her beam ends, and I had to swing myself along
by the cabin births ; and on reachinqj the gangway, I
found the passengers all crowded into it, and in tears. I
reached it just in time to hear the captain cry " cut the
halliards," and immediately the sails were shivered to
pieces, and the vessel righted. But our danger was by
no means ovtr ; the vessel had not now the necessary sail
m
TRAVELS OS
to carry to out to sta; and, the captain said, if the gale
continued, we must inevitably be driven ashore on Long
Island. He was much jdTected, and in tears. Ht was a
][>leasant little man, and I really felt for him. I had heard
somewhere that south*east gales, on the coast of America,
seldom lasted above 10 or 12 hours ; and, as this one had
now continued upwards of nine liours, I endeavoured to
console him with tlie idea, that the chance was f»;Teatly in
our favour. He admitted it was so, but could not help
being aflfected while there was any chance against us, and
the vessel in her present state. While wc were speaking,
I chanced to look to the south-west, and observed a small
speck of blue sky througii the turbulent atmosphere. I
pointed it out to the captain, and I never saw a man so
sensiMy al^cted with sudden joy. He affirmed the gale
was over, and in a few minutes all was stHl and calm.
The wind shifted to the north-west, blomng a delightful
cool breeze; and shoiHv after there was not a cloud to be
seen in the horizon. We put about the vessel, and stood
in for the land ; but the wind was now right against' us, and
we made little progress. However \vq had time to patch
up our sails, and made the best of our way towards our
destiiied port. .siH^];. . i
r-^he \\^ather continued favourable, and on the 3d oF
August, at daylight, we saw the high lands of Never
Sink; at IG o'clock, we saw the light-house, distant 10
or 12 miles ; soon after which we had a fiiivi view of Long
Island, Staten Island, the bay, and itumerous ^'cssels in-
ward bound. The bi'eeze continued light, so that it was
4 o'clock before we received a pilot ; after which \vx* came
to anchor five or six miles south-east of the li£^-hou<«.
This pilot gave us information regarding the death* of John
THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.
55
[ man so
PeircC) the seamen who was killed by a shbt from the
Leander ; and told us that he had been on board several
coasting vessels himself which had been fired at by the
Cambrian and Leander, on the conduct of ^\'hose officers
be reflected in very bitter terms.
V Pft the morning of the 4th we set sail, but tlie brt^e^e
died away in a short time, and we again came to anchor
within half a mile of the beach, a Utde to the south of the
light-house. At H a small breeze sprung up from the
south, and we again weighed anchor. At half past 12 wc
passed the light-house, and, the breeze encreasing, we con-
tinued our course at a good rate, much gratified with tlic
prospect round us. Staten Island, rising to a considerable
elevation, and clothed with verdure, was right aliead.
Long Island was on our right, with a pretty view of the
Narrows between themj the high lands of Never Sink
astern, and the high lands of the Jerseys, to the westward ;
with the great confluence of waters and crowded shipping,
formed altogether a most beautiful picture; and it probably
made a greater impression upon me than it would had I
arrived direct from Europe; tlie dull scenery of Georgia
and South Carolina acting as a foil.
At half past 2, we passed the Narrows, the channel be-
tween Long Island and Staten Island, about three quar-
ters of a mile broad ; and immediately after New York,
distant about 10 miles, with the bay and shipping, opened
to our 'View; which had a very fine eflfect. At liaif past 3,
we arrived at the quiu'antine ground, which is beautifully
situated on a small bay on the eiist side of Staten Island,
and having got a pass from the health officer, we set sail
for New York. I was veiy much gratified with tlic view
in our passage upwiuxl. There ai*e several islands in the
56
TftAYlLS IH
boy, and the scenery on each side b leaUy beautiful ; the
city too is adorned with a number of spires, wluch have a
fine effect, and in approadung it vre passed a pretQr' point,
planted With trees, called the Battery. But we could not
land at the city. BpMihe health Ufws, all cotton, after a
certain season, must be landed at Brooklyn, on Long
Island; at which we arrived at 6 o'clock in the evening.
Fh>m thence I passed over to the city; and immediately
wuted on Mn Stewart, a native of Perth, in Scotland, and
an old" acquaintance; from whom, and his amiable wifl^, I
received a most friendly welcome, and a kind invitatien to
spend the summer with them, which was cordially ac-
cepted^
'.i?M^'
Wf^
'<Mt8*r'
■ '^^Hm^-.
KEW YORK.
57
•rr- -
teiUWEB vni.
New Yark,
New YORK is situated on the kouth*>^e^ point ctf
York island, at the confluence of Hudson and East rivers^
b north latitude 40° 40'. the length of the city on East
river, is nearly two miles; and it extends along the North
river nearly as much. It^ average breadth is sdxiut one
mile, and its circumference sijt. It consists of about
15,000 houses, including public^ buildings and ware-
houses ; and the inhabitants are estimated at about 80,000.
By the cdisUs of 1800, they amounted to 60^489, but the
increase has been very great since*. The houses are ge-
nerally built of brick, with slated of shingled roo£s; aiti
many of them are handsome^
The plan of the city is not uniform. In the old pait qf
the town some of the streets are crooked, and many of
them are too narrow; but all the modem part is built on
a good plan; and some of the new streets are uncommoa-
ly elegant. Broadway is the iinest street in the city, an4
from its importance, and great beauty, ii merits a particu-
lar description. It commences at the Battery, on the
south- west point of the city, and runs in a north-north-east
directi(Mi about two miles and a half, where it forms a
* By tlie census of 1810, the whole Inhabitants on the island
•mount to 96,3r3. -.v>-u-i.-a u^i^.
■fsit
VOL. I,
«
#
58
TRAV£LB IK
junction with the Bowery road. The breadth of this street,
including the side puvcments, is about 80 feet, and it is
regular during its whole length. It is ornamented with
rows of poplar trees on each side, and a number of pub-
lie buildings are situated on it; particularly, the Custom-
house, Trinity church, St. Paul's church, the city public
buildings, the Mechanics' Hall, and the hoipital. The street
rises by a gradual ascent Crom the Battery, about half a
mile, and is at its greatest elevation opposite the city build-
ings. Its course is through the higliest part of the island.
Greenwich-street is next in importance. It rises also at
the Battery, and runniltg nearly due north, upwards of two
miles, connects tlie city with the village of Greenwich.
Pearl-street is one of the most important in the city in
point of trade. It rises also near the Battery, and runs
nearly parallel with the East river to Cherry-street; from
tlience h runs to the northward, and ^s into Chatham-
street*. Cherry-street is a continuation of Pearl-street,
and runs along the East river, till it is terminated by a
bend of the river. Bowery-lane is upwards of 100 feet
lyide, rises at Chatham-street, and, connected with the
Boston road, forms a junction with Broadway, as before
mentioned. The other most important streets are, Wall-
street, where the most of the banks and public offices are
situated, Xhatham-street, where the theatre is situated,
Front-street, Water-street, and Broad-street.
That part of the city which has been recently laid out
on East river, is constructed on a handsome plan, the
streets: crossing one another at right angles, and there are
several public squares. Of these there are by far too few
->* Since 1806, Pea*'l-3tleet b^s been extended beyond Chatham-
^reet, to Broadway. ■ ^
%
NEW YQIftK»
59
in the city, and they hardly merit nodce. The Battery,
before mentioned, is a pretty piece of ground, and com-
mands an elegant view of the bay, islands, narrows, and
shipping ; but it is quite small, consistuig of a few acres
only. There is a small triangular piece of ground, called
the Park, in front of the public buildings, which is very
ornamental ; and these ai^ all the public walks of which
New York can boast. Would it not be well, in laying
out cities, to make a large reserve of public property,
while land is cheap ? Hyde Park at London, the Green
of Glasgow, and the Inches of Pertli, are instances of its
utility.. ' ' --t--"
The public buildings are numerous. The first in im-
portance is the City Hall, fronting the Park. It i$ now
erecting, of white marble, and will, when finished, be the
most elegant building m America, and few in Europe will
surpass it. The others are Federal Hall, Custom-House,
College, Cofiee-House, Mechanics* Hall, Theatre, Hospi-
tal, Prison, Bridewell. There are seven episcopal churches,
five presbyterian, two Dutch, three methodist, two bap-
list, two qiiaker meeting-houses, one German, one Lu-
theran, and one French Calvinistic church, one seceder,
one Scots reformed church, oiie church each for univer-
jsalists, congregationalists, Moravians, and Africans, and
one Jewish synagogue. ' r^j ^jiimti lu jj; •
There are five public markets in the city, of which the
principal is the Fly-Market ; and these are well supplied
with wholesome provisions, vegetables, fruit, and fish ;
and the prices are generally reasonable. A few of them
may be quoted. . Beef, mutton j and yeal^ 9.tQ.l^ cents^
* A dollaf exclianges at 45. 6d. sterling; and a cent is a fraction
niorc thati a halfpenny. * ¥..
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
/z^.***-^
1.0 ^Ki y£
■tt lU 12.2
E HA ^
L& 12.0
31
J^%
^ ^
Photographic
ScMioes
Corparation
^
^^^
;\
23 WIST MAIN STRUT
WilSTiR,N.Y. 14SM
(7I6)R73-4S09
'4^
«>
TU'A1»1.S m
per poiind ; a turkey 75 ; a goo^ 63 ; ducks and fowls
about 25 each ; eggis 14 per dozen ; butter 22 per lb. ;
lea— rsoiichong 75, hyson 125 ; cofiee 20 per lb. ; sugar
12, refined 20. Bread is regulated by flour, which is at
^Bresent 8 dollars per bend. Fish and fruit plenty and
cheap« Madeira wine 2| dollars per gallon ; claret 5 dollam
per dozen; brandy, r^m, and gin, 1| dollars per gallon.
. There are a nunfber of schools in the city, and the coK
lege, in which two of the professors are Scotsmen, i»
reckoned a veiy excellent seminary of education. To the
north of ^ city, ntiar Greenwkh, stands the state-prison,
inodelled upon the plan of that of Philadelphia; and it is
said to be one of the most benevolent institutions ever
establbhed in any oountry.
>'^'The Ci^ is well situated for trade. Ha\4ng a spacious
liarbour, and eaSy access to the ocean at all seasons of the
year, and being in a central situation in the United States,
it must necessarily always command a large share of the
foreign trade of the country; and, having the command
x>f Hudson^s RiveT) navigable with its branches upwaids
of 200 miles, and the East River,, with Long Island Sound,
it has a great share of the internal trade of Jersey, oif Ver-
vnxmti of Connecticut, of Rhode Island, and of Massachu-
setts; besides the whole 6f the fertile interior counliy,
which, on the other hand, fumislies eveiy kind of produce
and provisions, by an easy water carriage,^ and at a ipeason*
^able rate.
The exports from New York amounted, in 1805, to
23j582,252 dollars^ of which 15,484,88S dollars was fo-
reign produce. The imports probably amount to up-
ymp^ 9f 25,00Q^Q00; but k is ^ be observed, that New
•'iiaoi.,':' «ff •■■ .
4 " I ■
KXW TOBK.
61
York ekpokts and imports a great pordqn of the ccnntno-
dhies of other states. «
The situation of New York I should reckon very heal-
thy ; yet it is sometimes dreadfully afflicted with sickness;
which circumstance, I an^ rather inclined to think, arises
fix>m a defect in the police, which does not seem to be
conducted in a manner becoming the wealth and splendour
of this fine city. The buil^ngs are, in many places, too
crowded. Many of the wharves are ill constructed, and
some of the docks project into the city, especially fh>m
the East River, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants.
The common sewers are incomplete, and there is no sup-
ply of fresh water to sweeten and purify the streets ; but,
beyond all, they have adopted the system of sinking ne-
cessaries, which accumulates such a collection of latent
filth, that thk steams of it are sometimes perceptible at
two miles distance.
I soon got well acquainted with New York, and ^vas
much pleased by the afiability and polite deportment of
the inhabitants. The gentlemen, whom I had occasion to
see, were mostly merchants, who are distinguished as men
of business ; and generally so well acquainted with the
nature of their own trade, that they can tell the value of
a piece of goods almost as connectly as a Manchester or
Glasgow manu&cturer. The female society are polished
and well bred. They have not, generally speaking, that
florid glow of health, for which the Scottish ladies are dis-
tinguished } but they are, I tlunk^ fully as handson^e in
their persons and features.
I heard but litdc politics among those with whom I
associated, but I observed a good deal in the newspapers,
a^ two of them were very coarse and scurrilous. They
6d
tbaveLs ixr
were on di&renC aides of the political qneation, of course,
and substituted abusive language and persqtial deda«>
mation for reasoning. When a person looks into a news-
paper, it is to see the news of the day, of which there is
generally a summary in the leading paragraph ; but, con-
trary to every diing I had ever seen before, one of these
P^qiers began by abusing a cotemponuy, and the other re-
turned the compliment, with interest. I notice this cir-
cumstance, because it made a forcible impression upon
me, and because similar circumstances are oft^i nesorted
to in Briton, to represent the free press in America as in
the last stage of depravity. A free press is a great national
blessing ; but, like the best medicines, it becomes a most
deadly poison by abusing it. An editor of a public paper
assumes a mosit- important station in soci^. His sen>.
timents spread &r, and have a great influence upon the
public mind. He is responsible for every word he pub-
lishes, and it is not enough that he adhere to truth himself;
he b bound to take care that none other publish fidsehood
through the medium of his paper. A regard to the pub-
lic good> also, requires that truth should be promulgated
in decent language ; and nothing ^lould be introduced^ iitto
a public p^iper with which the public have nothing to ^.
Whenever the personal feelings of the editor have a ten-
dency to violate this rule, they should be immolated cii
the altar of public decorum.'
Party polkics is here, as well as m Britain, a noisy
subject ; and the quesdon between the parties not being
well defined, it is difficult to understand it. From the
best account of it which I could procure, the 9chwn sebips
to have taken place about the time of the adoption of the
federal constitution, which gave rise to very amroated dis-
VEW YORlt. if
ciisiions, in which those who were in favour of it were
styled ftderaUsts, and those opposed to it antifederalhts.
It now- receives the approbation of the whole community,
but the distinction of parties continues, under the names
of federalists and democrats. They equally lay claim to
the title of republicans, and are often styled Jkhral repub^
licans and democratic republicans. It was in vain that I
looked for a satisfactory account of the matter in the New
York papers which I had an opportunity of seeing; but I
observed, in one of them, that the federalists were s^led
the disciples of Washington, and the democrats the sup-
porters of Jefferson. I thought I would discover the dif-
ference in the declared opinions of these two eminent cha^
racters. I accordingly turned to general Washington's
Farewel Address, and Mr. Jefferson's Inaugural Speech,
but the sentiments inculcated in these two papers appeared
to me to be precisely the same. The one recognizes po-
pukur government, and recommends union, obedience to
the laws, religion and morality, and to keep party spirit
within bounds. The other declares, that the will of the
majority, legally expressed, is the law of the land ; and
recommends harmony and affection, with the free exercise
of reason, of religion, and of the press. Professing to act
under these sentiments, it is somewhat singular that there
should be a difference at all ; but, to use the words of one
of the characters above alluded to, " every difference of
opinion Is not a difference of principle," and the political
question may be considered as essentially different from
what it b in Britain. In Britain, the question between
whig aiKi tory is, whether the controuling power shall be
vested in Hhs people or in the croum. In America, it it
w}^!ether it shall be vested in this or that set of men*
64
TRAVELS IN
, i»
Having merely glanced at this subject, I shall dismiiss it
with a fervent wish for the total extinction of all party spirit^
tlie more to be desired in the United States, as party dis-*
tinctions are apt to divert the public attention from objects
of real practical utility, while the difference in principle
among good men is so small, that they should be-all
republicans, all federalists."
On the 20th of August, I was introduced to that cele-
brated character, Thomas Paine. He was confined in
New York by a hurt in his leg, and lived in the house 'of
a Mrs. Palmer, widow of the late deistical minister in thstt
city. The gentleman who introduced me was well ac-
quainted with Mr. Paine, and I was politely received as
his friend. Paine was sitting in a small apartment, with
a number of newspapers before him, and he gave one of
them to my friend to read some paragraphs relative to the
negociations for peace between Britain and France. In
the mean time, I cast my eyes across the table, and, from
fiome MSS. which lay on it, judged he was writing on
the subject of religion. The tide of one of the pieces was
singular, namely, ** It is I, Thomas Paine, that speaketh/'
I could only see a word here and there of what followed ;
but, by the scope of it, I presumed that it was some sort
of religious creed. I was afterwards informed, that it
really was so, and that he intended it should be published
after his death. When my friend had finished reading the
newspapers, they entered into conversation, in which Paine
declared decidedly, tiiat there would be no peace* " The
UTir," he observed, " must inevitably go on till the go-
vernment of England fell ; for it was radically and syste-
matically wrong, and altogether incompatible with the
present state of society.'* I reminded him> that there
1^.
■itt,-,^
Mew TORK.
w(M now a whig adnunittration in Britain, who would in«
stittite a leibnn of. abuses, cause the constitutioiii to be
acted on in its puritf , and probably repair all the mischief
that had been done by the toiy administratians. He shook
his head, and said that i he knew the English >goviem-
ment well, and was -convinced that no man, or set of men,
would ever be able to reform it ; the ^stem waa wrong,
and it never would be set right without a rei<rolution,
whioh.waaas certain as &te, and at' no great distance in
time. -■'■ K •■>
"Finding we differed on this. point, L changed the sub-
ject^ and took notice of a little essay ^which he had written
on the yellow fever, wUch had beiea published in the
newi^Nipera, and attracted considierable attentica^in the
sQuthem states. He seemed to be |>leased with thia^ . and»
i^^ijthe . OOUW& ,oC conv^mation oiviChe suJ^yeot^ diaeovered
a'good de^ i»fvthat litepary vanity. tof^wbieh 1)» has been
acomied ; bmM » muit be aokno<H4cdgBd, > that this little
pieice ^contains much valuable infoifmatipn. « The > arga-
menls are ingenious;; to me, indeed, quite convincing $
and I ha^e. conversed, with some of Mr. i^oae'smost stre-
nuous pditieal q;>ponents, who . liave viewed them in tlie
same^iig^.
v^.Paiaef.iS'^a.slender^man, rather taii, and has an uncom-
monly peiietniting^e.>Hi8^&ce-isiSubjeot to a scorbutic
eruption, which eaccumstancehaapiobably. contributed to
propagnle ^ report^ that her is habitual^ intemperate ^
hut i waa 4nfopned by those whoiElUiow>lHm well^> that it
is not^cQiiieotiv When ho meets withia person of his own
mfy>^oi thiidLing, hcv will fiequentj^^ induigCu himsdif: to a
late hour oyer t i^ass^f toddy^ vbu| seldom icarries \t to
excess. His .income is but smaU$ but hfi^isipMn^l^pea*;.
VOL. I. I
TBAYBLf IH
dent diPBiiiii8tanoct» having a tract of land, for which he
oouki ohtain ten thouaaiid doUan. He is ptoaaant m con-
fenadon, and apcaka very much in the ttf le he writes,
^fcute ckar and perspicuous.
The fbttowing tahle will afiofdM idea of the aummer
wtatber at New York.
August 4.
Oesi,
temperate.
5.
Rain,
do.
6.
Clear,
warm.
7.
Do.
do.
- 8.'
Do.
dbw
m-.: • •■-.'.ft?-
Do.
Mt la
Ckntdy,
.^0.^
.^ ..■ ^. iL^
Clear^' .•.'■ ■ - t^ij^r- ■■ ■- do. r • ? *i«ii>,ia3«ws^«
-m
Cloudy,
<-. . ^^-^mmimt^ltm*-
^ ^ ■ V 18^:
Do.
' do.^^-:^' •■KlwiKititi
.14.-
Dec* ^
dOiar..t#''taili«i^
15.
Showers^
' .:"doir- n-'^'-^iiMiiiippil
< »?■■,*:< ■,!.■ '.•' ■ ■ .. ■ lo.
Hain^
8tttoy«^. '^ ^^4#^
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Ckmdy,
' ■•dOi).;-u> ■ tkilm
Clc»i
pteaaaiilu^^.«a; "«^l^>
^smmmm^-^ 19.'
Do.
' vdo. fip|Nfll^o«i||Ml|lilr
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Do.
do.^'- -tiigwitis
:iilW<lriiwit»#^ai.
Do.
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im(igmi^mii^^^ ■
Qoudy,
suhayi
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ilain^ thundor^
wann. . r iNjaii^
^gK0^ym^^^ : 'd4w ■
Bain^ Btioniiyj
"cold. ■' ' -//(^ftiiiiHR^. ;
4^Q* : '■ :-^ . ■■ <■ 2&k
Clea»v
wanii» ;• ■ .-uiiifeji-
■ '':>*v:''.i ■ ■*" '- • 'S6*
Do^
.-•da, .'., , . '•*^^*^'
^lit'^vts <^ya^ ofl&die days ittlffK^'iirBrt^ I^tidita-
•^'ii->
i^
flBW TOBK.
€f
t miminer
'<^^'10%:
*if^r
CHAPTER DC.
Long Island sounds — Newport y — Providence,
Having judged it expedient to make an expedition
into the New £ngland states, I took a passage on board a
Providence packet, and we set sail, at four o'clock, on the
afternoon of die 26th of August. Our company consist,
ed of a gentleman and three ladies fiom New York, two
ladies and two children from Newport, a baptist preacher,
a printer, and a Georgianmi^« I found the major to be
a singular character, and shidl give hb history as I learn*
ed it. He is a native of Italy, and came to dus country
with the French army, during the American war. At
the peace he remained in America, married a wife, and tae<>
took himself to merchandize, somewhere about Philadel-
phia. From thence he removed to Augusta, in Georgia,
where he has accumulated a large fir '^se ; liaving ^ve or
six stores, and is one of the greatest ^ jtton dealers in all
that country. *&r •
We pix>ceeded up East River with a fine easy breeze,
and had a delightful view of theixmkson each side, .which
are well wooded, and adomed widi many elegant villas, t)e-
bngii^ chiefly to the meichantft of New York. Six
miles above New ¥oric, we passed HeU Gate, a very sin.
gular passage, sdxmt 300 or 400 yards in Iveadth, having
a ledge of stmken rocks acsoss it m an angular direc-
tion, which occai^<xis many whiripoob and esfm^iift^fm
ii TBAVEL8 ON
in the vmter. These, at certain periods of die tide, nuke
a dreadful noise, and render a passage impracticable ; but
at other times the water is smooth, and a passage easy.
Soon after passing Hell Gate, we entered Long Island
sound, and had a fine view. Our company seemed so-
cial, and disposed to be happy. The weather was agreeably
warm, and we enjoyed ourselves on deck, where we had
a number of fine songs, in which a Newport young lady
excelled. Towards evening the breeze died away, When
we were about 30 miles fix)m New York.
August 27th. Early this morning we took a fiiir wind,
which carried us along at the rate of nine or ten miles an
hour. The sound widens gradually to the middle, where
it is about 25 miles broad ; but, the day being clear, we
had a fine view on both sides of it. On the Connecticut side,
the coast is lined with elegant towns, adorned with spires,
and the view is very pleasing. Our ladies continued to
charm us with their songs, and the major and I were much
diverted by a singular courtship, in which the chief agent
was a booki
We observed, that our printer paid a good deal of atten-
tion to the Newport yoimg lady, the sweet singer. Tak-
ing advantage of her taste for poetry and music, he pro-
duced his book, and read a sentimental effusion to the
lady ; and, while she was expressing her approbation, he
let his hsoid touch her's, as if by accident They turned
over to another piece, and the lady read on, till site came
to a passage with which she seemed to be quite delig^ed.
<' Is'nt that beautiful," said the gentleman, laying his hand
gently upon her's. ^* Beautiful, indeed,^' exclaimed the
la4y* > '* I'll shoVir you something," said he, '* still more
forcible upon the same subject: I beg you'll be seated,
LONG IBLAHB lOUND.
M
ma'am." The lady was seated. He delivered the book
with one hand, and, laying hold of her's with the other,
sat down beside her.-^She read on. *' This is really
beautiful," said she. ** Most beautiful, indeed,'* said he,
and seized this opportunity to put one hand gently round
her waist, while he helped her to hold the book with the
other. Thus they went on from piece to piece, and from
sentiment to sentiment, to the great vexation of the ma-
jor, who was quite chagrined, that the printer should en-
gross the lady wholly to himself, and deprive the company
of her agreeable songs and conversation.
About four o'clock in the afternoon, we approached the
head of the sound ; where, being near the Connecticut side,
we had a fine view of New London, appropriately situated
on a river called the Thames. Nearly opposite to New
London^ we passed between two very small islands, within
a few yards of each other, and entered a curious passage,
called the Race, being the outlet of the sound. There is
a chtiin of islands, which runs across this outlet in an an-^
gular direction, and they consequently confine the water
into narrow channels, so that the tide, at ebbing and flow-
ing, runs with great violence. We passed it with a light
breeze,, and the current against us^ and consequently we
made but little progress ; but we got out of it, and all
danger, before dark, and proceeded with a light breeze
to Newport; now about 30 miles distant. On our arrival
at the entrance of Narraganset bay, I observed a great
quantity of shippings principally small craft, and was anx-
ious to see this inlet, being esteemed one of the best in
America; but it was now 11 o'clock, and too dark to
make observations, so I retired to bed; and in tjie mora*
ing, found the vessel at the wharf in Ne^vport.
■■j^>
.>v.<-.
70
TBAVBLt IV
Niwpo&T ii skualed on the south- west point of Rhode
Island, in latitude 41° 29^. It extends about a mile fipom
north to south, along Narraganaet bay, and is about one
third of a mile in breadth, rising, as it proceeds from the
ivater, by a considerable ascent. The streets cross one
another at right angles, and are all well paved. The num*
ber of inhabitants, by the census of 1800, was 6739, and
the number of houses is about 1100, chiefly built of
wood, and pointed white. The public buildings are a
State-House, Academy, Public Libnuy, four baptist
churches, two for congregationalists, and one each for
episcopalians, quakers, Moravians, and Jews.
The situation of this city is beautiful, and the salubrity
of the climate is proverbial, in consequence of which it
becomes a great resort for strangers, particularly from the
southern states, during the summer season. It is also
noted for the excellent supply of provisions in its market,
particulairly of fish, of which there is said to be 50 or 60
different kinds. The packets which ply between this place
and New York, and Providence, are of great service to
the city, and to the public. They are generally under
excellent regulations, and afford better accommodations
and travelling at a cheaper rate than is to be found in
most places of the world. The distance from hence to
New York is about 200 miles, which we sailed in little
more than 30 hours ; and the fare, including bed and pro-
visions, was only nine dollars. From hence to Providence,
30 miles, it is one dollar.
Newport is a favourable situation for commerce, and
hss one of the most safb and commodious harbours in the
worid. On the opposite side (^ the harbour is Goat Isl-
ioid, on which there is a fort and military station. The
BItODft I8LAMt>.
inde of Newport b principally m diipping; and there is
a manuiactoiy of cotton, and one of dude, Ixith of which
are said to be in a thriving state. > v m m m
I took a walk round the town with the major, who was
well acquainted with it; and from the heights above it we
had some line views. After breakiast, wc went on bonrd
the packet for Providence.
At half past 9 o'clock we got under weigh, but the wind
being right ahead, we made little progress. The day how*
ever was fine, and the company agreeable; and, being in
no particular hurry, we enjoyed ourselves very much, sail-
ing up thb delightful bay. We had all our former com-
pany, except one of the ladies of Newport and' her chil«*
dren. The other had also intended to stop at Newport ;
but our printer had exerted his eloquence so efiectually as
to induce her to go to Providence, to see a friend, with
whom she was to live during commencement. Having
heard this term frequently made use of, I inquired into the
meaning of it ; and was informed that it b a public day, held
at college, previous to the vacation, on which the students
deliver their orations and receive their degrees ; and it con«
chides with a ball, to which all the young ladies, for many
miles round, are invited.
After piQceeding a few miles, I found we had a states
room futt of ladies in addition to our former company..
One of them came out to take the air. She was a tskl
elegant giri> about 16 years of age, with a complexion and
features uncommonly beautiful. The major and I guesS'
ed that she would immediately attract our printer's notice*
We ^etsed right, for wlule we were yet speaking, we s^
him |>ull out his book, and make up to her. She was
ttanding beside the object of his fintip4«4> whom faenotir
■4
7fi
TRAVELS IN
*
turned his back upon; andv under pretence of diowing
the fine sentimental pieces in the ^Ar, went through the
whole ceremony of touching hands, and so forth. Our
major was astonished, and wondered what could be about
the man that he charmed the ladies so, for he was by no
means handsome. One of our company, remarked that
there was an herb in nature, called valerir"^ which had
the remarkable quality of charming the feline tribe ; and
perhaps there might be some herb which produced a simi-
lar effect upon young women, and that (he printer must
be in possession of it ; for he could account for his re-
markable success in no other way. The major swore (he
was a sad swearer) that thb must be the true solution) and
wondered if any such herbs were to be found in Georgia,
as he would purchase them at any expence. But it ap-
peared that this theory could not be altogether correct, for
a small quantity of valerian will charm as many cats as a
room will hdd, whereas it appeared the printer could only
charm one young lady at a time^ The Newport lady, per-
ceiving his. attention to. the stranger, withdrew from. Imii,
and we enjc^ed part of. her agreeable couversation, during
the remainder of the passage. He was but short-sighted
in Ihe exchange ; for this lady, though not so beautiful as
the other, had a great detf more animation, which render-
ed her more interesting; and she was possessed of a great
deal of good sense. We had a .number of fine songs and
stc^ies, and the day passed, away most agreeably. i
.i Narraganset bay, up which we sailed, is 33 miles in
length, from south to north, and, towards Newport, about
12 miles in breadth, including the islands which! it ;.e:mbo-
soms, of which the principal are,iUiode Island, Ca^io^euty
Prudence, Patijsnce, Hope, Dyer'% and Hog IsUund. It
9B0DS IStAHDr
73
i«Ddveft the waters of Providence, Taunton, ai^ Patuxet
rivers; and contmns five harbours, beudes those of New^
port and Providence. Its toiks are clad with aetdements^
and theie are a number of pretty little towns, the view of
which, fit)m the water, has a fine effect. _i■mi.i^t7fiwl^■
At 6 o^clock we reached Providence, where we saw a
good deal of shipping, and I was suq)ri8ed to find a ves*
k\ there of upwstfds of 900 tons burden. I was informed
^at'she was in the East India trade, of which there is a
considerable share at this port^ and that there would be a
sale of India goods next day. ''-> *' rh nn . . ■•> >'
The major, who h^ often travelled this way^ conducted
me to a boarding-house^ where having engi^ed lodgings,
we went' out to take a view of the town, with which he
wiB well acqusdnted; The groimd rises to a cossiderabto
elevation above the : town, fix>m whence We had a fine view;
and we returned to bur lodgings highly pleased withl^
ekcursicMns ktf this day; • ''f<f. e^^)on<(t 'f?*:'M-> v- '^'^ t /*^ .
ipRoviDbKcfE is beautiflilly' situated' on the head of
NariragaRset bay, and is divided into two parts by the
l^ovidente river, * over which there is a good bridge,
widi a , draw in lit^ to • allow vessels to pass. The west
j^de of the town is low^ but the east side rises, by a rapid
ascent, to a con^ders^ble devati^. The number of inha-
bitants, in 1800, was 7614, and they are rapidly increas-
ing^. The public buildings are, a court-house, market-
house, a public school-house, a baptist meeting-hotkse,
a quaker meeting-house, and three congregational church-
es. - There is an extensive college situated on the hill, and
commanding a fine view of the town^ bay, shipping, and
country formany mUes round. The building is of brick,
♦* •By the census of 1810, they arc 10,07 1.
ft
iiiAlmi iir
uriA a slated rodf, 150 feet long^ 46 wide, and four sto.
lies liigh; wd ocmtainfli lodgkigv for upwards of lOQ slu-
detitsa it has a valuable philosoplacal appovalus, and a
libraty cointaining npwmrds of 30CX> volumes.
Providence had a pretty extensive ahi]4>ii^ trade, and
several manu&ctories are established in the town and
neighbouriiood, which are said to be in a thriving ^tate.
'Being now about to leave this Uttle interesting state, I
shidl devote a chapter exclusively to a geographical des-
cription of it, which plan I intend to follow in the course of
my travels. For the necessary information on ihis branch^
as wen as the description of cities, towns, and rivers, I
nmst be indebted, in a great measure, to the researches
of tikrae who have gone before me; but I shall arrange
tfar subject on a new plan, which may adms^ of conside-
rable variety, and have the beneficial effect of rattUring my
oiWQ judgment on American ge(^;raphy.
To American manners and educatidn I shall psKf a litde
txtra attention, because Ivbegin to find thal4 haiw been
labouring under considdrahte prgudioes ooncenang diem.
it is very common for the natives of Britain to set up
thdr ovm coui^ as the model of all^perfectioii, and to
doubt die existence of equid advantages any where else,
.ond to no couhtry has diat doubt been more extended
:dian to the United Stat^ of America. It is reaUy aur*
prising to see^ that, aotmthstanding the great iittercourae
between the two countries, there should be so much igno-
rance, or rather misinformation, in Britain, regarding Ame-
rica; and it is to this circumstance that I attribute my
own prejudices, for as to what are called natural prejudi-
ces, I disclaim them. I have no wish to see tilings other-
wise than at they are: and I am very glad to observe
m.
tint tkis pdopie bnye a potiah of imuuicrs^ and q;>eak a
s^k of toguige, , wluch must be the i«;sult of eduGa|*.am
at least eqpxA^ito what exista in Britain. And: this does not
appear to be confined to the aea-poft towns : the country^
in diia quarter^ is thickly Killed with a civilized^ industri-
oua people.
i- i^i^pf^'^^i-il^ 'vu.
■mm,, mm ?* .ajyrtii .-iq*, niw ''?1 • 'ur
u:
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■■,'i* T - * '-Vi: ■■■' ■ •■...■.■.
CHAPTER X.
*.vj*t' . ■> - Rhode Island, ■
Rhode ISLAND is situated between 41° 22' and 42°
north latitude, and 5° and 5° 50' east longitude^, being
45 miles in length, and 43 in breadth, and contains 1548
square miles, or 990,720 acres,
ifcv The face,, of the country is agreeably uneven,, some
places being, ;shUly, but not mountmnous. : Nanaganset,
already mentioned^ is the principal bay. The rivers all
iflowinto, this bay, and have been already noticed.
^ Iron ore is found in great plenty, and the state abounds
indth limestone and insffble. Some copper ore and jbad-
vitone have also been found; and there are several mineral
springs, bu| of no great importance.
t» Th(& soil is various, and a gr^t part of it good, though
blotter adapted for grazing than for grain.
. .The cUmate. is salubrious and healthy ; but the winters
sure sometimes long and severe, commencing in Nqvemher,
and ending iii March* or April, There is a very short
^ring,. but the summer and autumn are delightful. Vol-
ney remarks on diis subject^. ^.* Were I obliged to select
* I have adopted the American mode of making Washington the
first meridian. It accords best with the map, and is calculated to
g;lye a better idea of the relative situatimi of the different places in
the country than the meridian of London.
imaDB ISLAHD^t
97
Ae most fevourable spot in America as the place of my
abode, my choice would M upon the southern poinlof
,»^,
Rhode Islaiid;
The first setdement was commenced in the yCar 1636,'
by Roger Williams, a banished clergyman fiom Ma^-
ohuaetts ; and the state was chiefly peopled by emigra-
tions from that country. In 1663, a charter was obtained
fix>m Chaiies II, which is the basb of the present consti-
tution. The country suffered greatly during the revolu-
tionary war; but it is now in a thriving state, increaang
in population and wealth. It sends two senators and two
representatives to congress*.
The state is divided into five cojiindes and thirty town-
^ps, and the inhabitants amount to 69,123t> inclu<Hng
380 slaves, being about 45 to the square mile. r
The country id well improved, abounding with towns,
villages, and fiurm-houses. The chief towns are Provi-
dence and Newport, already mentioned. The others are
South Kingston, ^tuated on the Ivest side of Narragantet
Bay, nearly opposite Newport, and contains 3000 inhabi-
tants. Bristol is pleasantly situated on the bay, about half
way between Providence and Newport, and contains 1678
inhabitants. It has a little shipping trade, f^arr&n is a
flourishing litde town, cont^ning about 1600 inhabitants.
It is on the west side of the bay, on the Warren River,
and carries oh a brisk coasting and foreign trade. Little
ComptoHy East Greenwich, and Compton, are also growing
* Representatives are sent to congress according to the popular
tioii, one for every S3,000< Each state sends two senators.
t(The-ntBnber of inhabitants is by the census of ISOQj nt^l^^ss
svhercOftherwise expressed.
W BHOOB mamm.-
townsk The state b aupfJied with good foads and
hndgea, some of which have been constructted on an m>.
genious plan, and at groat expence. No Canals ha!vb yet
been mode, but aeveral aie projected.
The faru#aie generally well cultivated, and produce
Indian com, rye, barley, oats, wheat (though not enough
for home consumption), fruits in great abundance, and
culinaiy vegetables. Butter, cheese, and cyder are mide
in gfeat quantity, and of a superior quality.
'The manufiietures are cotton and linen goods, bar and
sheet iron, steel, nails, anchors and other iron wori[: fiar
shipping, sul-cloth^ paper, rum, &c. The cotton manu*
&cture is extending V and I wae informed that some of
those engaged in it were doing well ; but h is yet in its
infimcy, and,, being subject to a competition with the or-
ganized manu&ctures of Britain, it must be attended with
a eonaoderable degree of inconvenience, and perhaps some
risk.
Hiis state is very iavOurably situated for commerce, of
whieh- it has a large share. The exports are grain, fiax«
seed, lumber^ horses, catde, beef, pork, fish, poultry,
onions, butter, cheese, spirits, and cotton and linen goods.
The value of exports is about 1,000,000 dollars anUjUa^y.
The imports are European and India manu&cturea, West
India produce, and logwood.
The inhabitants of the country are generally proprietors
of the farms they cultivate, £md, having no landlord to make
their boo to, nor rent to pay, they must be independent.
The inhabitants of the towns are merchants, manu&cturers,
mechanics, seamen, and fishermen. The limds a^ not
entailed, and hence there is no aristocracy ; but indepen-
dence is easily attained by labour. There is no distinc*
Momom itLjjn.
m?
tion mads on account of religious opinions.; but cveiy
man wonhipavGockin any^ way his eonscienoe dictates,
without interfering 'With his civil rights. There are seve-
ral benevolent and useful societies in the state, among
which may be noticed one fior the ^^?abolitioAf the slave-
trade, and for the improvement of the African race.*' The
state of education is said to be conaderab^ behind that
of the other New England states, but is improving. The
chief seminaiy \s the college at Providaioe^ ahtady akiw
tijonedy and there is an academy at Newport under good
regulatjioRSy JbfMdiea 1^^ senunarico throughout the
stale* V ■-••■•:<■ ^'^ -i^' -•-:■ , ■ J' ^ '■ '^'>^- ■.. . , ,^,;,
• '^le state legislature consists of a gcrreHixv^ depu^ fpi*
vemor, ten senators, and a representative fiN>m each town-
sl^p. They arendiosen by the people twke every year,
andttti^ hold two sessions annvally.
m
TtAVBLB Uf il
A'"'
•t ."•P^ ri* v,iV*»^?'''
■'.t-
CHAPTER XI, ^W#d ^
fi I*
m^-
Provukncef — Dedhaniy — Boston.
L MERE is a rule in travelling this road, that if, on the
arrival of the packet, there are three passeingersr goiiig'' on
to Boston, the ' stage is bouiid t6 go with them at aiiy
hour. There were four of us who iigreed to go a| 5
o'clock ih the morning^ and we cdfistituted the ihajor
master of the <ieremoriies, to make the necessary armnge-
ment with the landlord. We accordingly rose very eairiy
to' take our places, but, lo! after waiting % full half hourj
there was no stage to be seen, and the major began to sus-
pect the landlord of insincerity. By-and-by he lost all
patience, and began to swear most bitteriy. He^went in
search of the landlord, but there ^vas no landlord to be
seen J iior, indeed, any of the domestics. However, it
was impos»bIe that they could be long proof agmnst the
effect of the major's lungs, for he bellowed forth the most
dreadful oaths and imprecations that I ever heard,^ and
soon alarmed the servants, but they could not satisfy the
niafor, who
.^.. *^ Roar'd a horrid murder shout, - _
In dreadful desperation'*
for the landlord, who at last made his appearance, and the
major, with a thundering inenace, demanded where the
sta^ was. He rubbed his eyes, and was going to make
MA88A0HU88TTS. ^ -910'
i\ reply, but he hud not time, for^the \pLjot held forth
fully half an hour in a strain of eloquence, peculiai^ to
gentlemen of the sea or the sword, and whicl^ could
hardly find a parallel in the curses wherewithal Dr. Slop
cursed Obadiah, on the day in which l^ tied tejuiots on
his instrument bag. At last the storm abated Wttle, and
the landlord got leave to speak ; but he^only |Plde matters
worse, for he blundered out that the stage would iiot go
befisre 8 o'clock. The landlord had, in truth, attempted
to jockey us. An additional company was to go at 8
o'clock, and he and the stage-owner, between whom there
was a collusion, thought that, notwithstanding the agree-
ment with us, the stage could easily acoonunodate both ;
and a few hours, in point of^ time, was immaterial. But
oh for the pencil of a Hogarth to delineate the features of
the major, When this fact came out ! Mercy on us ! how
he did fume and rage, and stamp and curs6 ! At last he
made a spring toward the landlord, and^ ^shaking his'canc
over his head, swore if he did not bring the stage immedi-
ately, he would have satis&ction out of his bones. The
landlord got alarmed, and ran as if the devil had been in
pursuit of him, and the major, having spent his rage,
stood mute. The landlord had not been long gone, before
a gentleman eame up to the house, and asked if we were
going to Boston, and, on being answered in the affirma-
tive, he told us that he had a new stage, which he would
start instantly, provided there were three passengers. This
was most delightflil news for the major, who told him we
would go, provided the stage was brought in ten minutes,
so as to disappoint the landlord. An elegant new stage^
with good horses, dlew up before the door in li few mi«
nutes, and, having paid a very moderate bill to the landlady^
VOL. 1. L '
'It9$ ^ TRAYBU IN •.
who, the majq^^served, was the better man qf t/te two^
we got j||to the carnage. While we were seating our.
8etves,^p came the landlord with the other stage, and the
major detained ais a few minutes to get a parting word
with l^QK '* Now, you rascal/' says he, '*you thought
to play fpfaikee trick upon me; but this is diamond
cut diam«A for you 1'* The landlord began to enter a
^complaint against us for leaving the stage, but he was
stopped stiort by the major, who exclaimed, '* Qh! you
.rascal, I delight in disappointing you. I would not for a
thousand — ay, not for ten thousand dollars, have wanted
this satisfaction. I know money will procure any thing,
and I have got more than ever you saw, you vagabond."
So saying, he ordered the df iver to proceed.
We travelled but slowly, owing to the road being very
bad. We learned that the people of Massachusetts had
offered to ext£nd the turnpike to Providence, but the peo-
fUe of this a^e would not agree to it, and thus the road
•^remained almost impassable. The morning was hazy, so
that we could see but little of the country ; but it appear-
ed to be indifferently cultivated. We saw great quanti-
ties of fruit by the way side, and several waggons, loaded
with apples, were on their way to Providence.
The salutation which the major gave the landlord occa-
sioned a good deal of meniment, and one of our company
observed, that he could put him upon a plan of swearing
jby rule, by which means he could save him a great deal
of trouble, and wear and tear of conscience, in coinings
oaths. He accordingly produced the anathema of £r-
nulphus, recorded in the Life and Opinions of Tristram
Shandy, which he read aloud, to the great astonishment of
^ major, and diversion of the company^
llASSAenUBBTTfl.
83
About four mikfl from Providence, we passed Fstucket
river, and entered into the state of Massachusetts. Here
there are very handsome falls, and a little town called Pa-
tucket, in which there is a thriving mmiufactory of cotton
yam and' goods. The spinning works are said to be on
the most approved principle, and there are several looms
going by machinery.
We were informed that the cotton trade had been intro-
duced here by a gentleman from England, a pupil of Ark-
wright, who had been very successful ; that other people
were following his example, and that this branch was like-
ly to increase, to a great extent, in this district. I doubt-
ed the power of the people here to become competitors
with the manufacturers of Engkuid ; but I learned that they
confine themselves pretty much to coarse goods, and ard-
cles of die first necessity } and on turning the whole infor-
mation, reladve to the subject^ in my mmd, I found that
they had such a number of circuVnstances in their fevotlr,
as were sufficient to balance, if not to overcome, the disad-
vantages^ The principal disadvantage is the tugh wages
which must be paid to the workmen, and it is supposed
that the people have a predilection for agriculture, which
hsts a tendency to .prevent them from settling at sedentary
emfd03rments. This last circumstance is the popular opi-
nion in BntBiti, and I was impressed with its reality my-
self; but af^ looking round me in this country, I rather
think that it is^more specious than solid, for I find there is
no want of masons, carpenters, smiths, tanners, shoema-
kers, hatters, taylors, and other mechanics, none of which
are agricultural employments. All these and other
branches are organized and practised with persevering in>
dustry, because the profits resulting firom them are equal
*-tii
f
84
^THATBLt IM
'A
to thoM remiltiiig finom ag;ricultiire; and other branches
will be subject to the same nile. In every community
there are a great number of the membera who are better
adapted for labour in the house than in the field» and the
force of this remark b peculiarly applicable to the cotton
trade, in which a large portion of the labour is performed
by machinery, and the remainder principaMy by. women
and diildren. But all labour b better paid for in Ame.
rica tlian in Britain. The proportion b probably two to
onei and if the cotton trade will afford this advance to the
labourers, it will bear a competition with similar manufac-
tures of Britain, and prosper-*— not else*
The most striking circumstance in favour of the cotton
manufacturers b the cheapness of the raw material, which
is the produce of the United States. They manufacture here
principally upland cotton, and the price, including canriage
to thb place, b about 2^ cents per pound* ; being about
1$ cents lower than they can possibly have it in Bri-
tiun. The next circumstance b.the heavy charges to
which Pritish manu&ctured goods are subject before they
come into the American market. These may be reckon>
ed at least equal to 45 per cent. : namely, carriage, insur-
ance, and shipping charges 5 per cent., American duties
16i per cent., importer's profit 10 per cents, American
merchant's profit and contingencies 14i per cent.
Now, suppose 100 lbs. of cotton to be manu^tured
into cloth, of a fabric that will sell at aboiH one shilling
sterling in Britain, the number of yards will be about 300;
and by producing thb in the American market, subject to
these different charges, it will afford a data whereby we
may calculate the price that can be aflbrdedto the manu*
* It is novf (la 13) only 13 or IS cents.
6
\
\
^
^fT
MAMAOBVSBTTl. H
ftotvrer in America; iM from thence we may determbe
the probnbk increase of the cotton manufiK:ture* It is to
be observed that ^ demand for cotton goods in America
is immcDie» and there is no material competition except
with British manu&ctures.
lOOlbs of cotfeun purchased in ihe southern
statesof America, at 18 cts., is in sterling ^41
Shipping charges, freight, and merchant's
profit, at 3d. per pound 1 5
British duty 16 8
Nearly 16d. per pound
300 yds. of cloth at Is. per yd. is
^ 6 12 8
£15
Leaving for the various branches of manu- r
facture . r £674
i4i*i
. This cloth sent to America, costs in Britain £ 15
Cfaaiges be£ore enumerated, 45 per cent. £ 6 15
jC21 is
■^*
Suppose the same fabric manu&ctured in America.
The cotton costs, in the southern states, at so
18 cents per pound 818 •sil
. Carriage and charges, at 2 cents per pound 2 a^.
Price of raw material B 20
Value of simihor cloth imported from Bri-
tain ,f 21 i'5, is 96 57
•v.»-
f
»»
I
P
w
f
Leavitig ibr the various brtaiOM of manu-' i^^
•a '. 'fiictuie^ ' ■ ■• ■imrHtivyi :■ ^mm>v . j|i76'57 ' ■
i5tin?'-i!A:/4 Or sterling .• •?.:.; •. --"riv i._^.i6 .■ 4 7
' : Being nearly double the price paid to the British manu-
facturer. ^^^^--^
f It will be observed too, by this calculation, that the cot-
ton is taken at its extrenie height, and for evdry cent that
it falls, the propoftional advantage to the American manu-
facturer is increased; because a great part of the difference
consists' in duties and charges, which are not materially
affected by the fidl. ' "^ t;.^ v ; 4^ ^? mm ^
It is my opinion, upon the whole, that the cotton manu-
facture will increase in America; and that it holds out a
very good inducement for men of capital to embark in it
We were now in the state of Massachusetts and had an
excellent turnpike road, but being recently cut through
a new country, we had no great variety of scenery. The
face of the country was agreeably uneven, but the land
rather poor and stony.. Twelve miles from Providence
we stopped at the house of a colonel Hatchj, the prc^inetor
of the stage^ who was along with us. The house' is new
and commodious, and we got an excellent break&st,
charge 50 cents.
From hence we travelled 22 miles to Dedham, , The
country, from the reason already stated, is but thinly settled
by tlie road side. The face of the countzy is s^reeably
uneven, and we had many fine distant views. The road-
side abounds with fruit, of which the traveller tnay gather
as much as he pleases.' Towards Dedham the country
improves, and the inhabitants appeared healthy, and in
comfortable circumstances.
I
MA98A0IIU8STTS.
«T
Dedham is a; handsome little village, eleven miled
from Boston, consisting of between 3 and 4Q0 houses,
and containing about 1500 inhabitants. The houses are
mostly built joi wood, and painted white. The public
buildings are a court-house, three congregational churches,
and an episcopal church. There are several grist and
saw-mills in the neighbourhood; and the inhabitants
cany on a considerable manufacture of shoes and wire-
work.
From hence to Boston, the road goes through a beauti-
ful country, abounding with villas and well-cultivated farms,
and at a distance to the eastward are high lands approach-
ing nearly to mountains. Wherever I turned my eyes, I
was delighted with the view; and being, like the Vicar of
Wakefield, ^' an admirer of happy faces," I was amply
gratified by the appearance of the inhabitants, who were
cleanly, industrious, and contented. The female part of
the community, in particular, appeared to great advantage,
having a glow of health, an air. of cheerfulness, and a
cleanliness of aspect, that I have not seen surpassed.
The country continued to improve as we proceeded to-
wards Boston, in the immediate neighbourhood of which
the buildings and pleasure-grounds are uncommonly ele-
gant. We entered the town by the curious passage called
the Neck, and drove up to the house of a Mr. Chappotin,
in Summer-street, which we reached just in time for dm.
ner. On entering the public room, I found about twenty
gentlemen at the dinner-table, and I seated myself beside
an elderly gentleman, in a strange dress, with a long beard,
who I afterwards learned was the Tunisian ambassador.
After dinner, I took a walk roundf the t9wn with the ms^r
m
TBAVSL8 m
jor, who was well acquainted with it; called upon tny
fellow-passenger in the Warrington, Mr. Ballard, who was
glad to see me; and spent the evening at the boardmg.
house, much pleased with the excursicms of the day.
.■Jf.-'A.i.i-
t^.
r
^. .^^.
■' <'>5--,»AiTw;»7,(X. i t
i/WJ'tf ■ s** J.-.'
4»'^*- ^
t
MA!99ACBOBPFTS.
v«"^i0-i';#
CHAPTER Xn.
JSostan,^—Salem*
Boston is buUt on a peninsula, at the head of Mas-
sachusetts Bay, m noith latitude 42^ 23'. It is at one
place two miles long, but the broadest part is not quite half
a mile. A great part of the town lies low along the bay;
but the ground rises to a considerable elevation in th^
ndddle, where the State-House is built, which ^ves it a
veiy handsome s^pearance at a distance. The totifn par*
takes of the nature of the old towns in England^ and is
iiregularly buUt, many of the streets being crooked and
narrow; but the more modern part is regular, and ^
streets broad and well paved. The streets, lanes, and alleys
ambunt to above 150; and there are five public squares;
but none of theiUi are of gn^t extent, except the Maliy
which is a vei^ elegant piece of pi;blic ground, in front
of the State-House.
The number of dwelling-houses is'above 3500, aiid, by
the censi» of 1800, the inhabitants were 24,937; fix>mthe
increase that has sinde taken place, it b presumed that the
number is now upwards of 30,000*1^. The greater part of
the houses are built of brick, dSid many of them are spa-
cious and elegant.
• By the census of 1810 they vrtre 33,350.
VOL. I* - ^- ■ - ^:; ' ■■■^ :.,M
m
jj^TRAYBLB ttti^
The public buildings are the State-House, Court-House,
Jail, Concert-Hall, Faneuil-Hall, Alms^HoUse, Work-
House, and Bridewell ; the Museum, Library, Theatre,
and nine congregational, three episcopal, and two baptist
churches, with one each for Roman catholics, methodists,
and universalists. The public buildings are in general
very handsome, and the greater part of the churches are
ornamented with spires.
The markets of Boston are well supplied with every
kind of country provisions, fruit, and fish. The prices
are not materially different from those of New York.
Flour is generally a little higher; but cod-fish, which is
the universal Saturday dinner, is lower.
Boston is well situated for foreign commerce, of which
it has a very large share. The harbour is spacious, and
is capable of containing 500 sail of vessels. There are
many whapves. constructed, (^ which the most remarkable
h.Ziong f^harfy extending into the bay upwards of 1700
feet. ^ The number of ves^ls that enter and clear out an-
nually is imitiense, carrying on a trade to Europe, the
East and West Indies, and China, besides a very exten-
sive coi^sting trade. The exports annually firom this port
probably amount to upwards of 8,000,000 dollars. The
principal manufactures are of iron, leather, paper, and
glass, which are brought to great maturity in all the va-
rious branches ; besides which, they have thriving manu-
factories of hats, sail-cloth j cards, soap and candles, refined
sugar, spermaceti, ashes, &c. There are ten distilleries,
two breweries, eight sugar-houses, and several rope-walks
in and about the town ; but one of the most important
branches is ship-building, and the Bostonians seem gene-
rally more attached to the shipping trade than any other
m
Wtt'-
-WT'^"^
MASSACHUSETTS.
9i
•™'
bnoich. There are in Boston three incorporated bonks,
besides a branch of the United States' Bank, whose jbint
capitals amouitt to upwards of 3,000,000 dollars, and
there are three or lour, insurance-offices, with capitals of
3 or 400,000 dollars each. ^ i
;, There are a number of public societies in Boston^
among which may be mentioned the: American Academy
of Arts and Sciences, Massachusetts Historical Society,
Boston library Society^, Agricultural Society, Mechanic
Society, Marine Society, Charitable Fire Society, Humane
Society, Medical Society, Dispensary, and the Female
Asylum. Public educaUon is on an excellent footing.
There are eight or nine pul^c schools, supported at the
expence of the town, which are accessible to sdl the mem-
bers of the community V free of expence. They are . ma-
naged by a committee of twenty-one gentlemen,: chosen
annually, and are under good regulations. Besidei»^ these,
there are a number of private seminaries, at whicfo^ttie
various branches of education are taught; and, iqpon the
whole, I believe Boston may challenge a competjjtion on
tins branch with any city in Europe, £dinburgh|(^ Scot4
land, perhaps, excepted. i-r <
The fruits of this attention to the improvement of the
mind, and the cultivation of the benevolent affections, are
very apparent in the deportment of the citizens of Boston^
who are intelligent, sober, and industrious ; and, though
nmch attached to the subject of religion, they are mwe
liberal, generally speaking, than any- people 1 have y«t
been amongst. The ladies of Boston are general^ handJ
some, with fine complexions; and, judging from the
• An A^ffh^tim has since been established, and is probably the
most elegant literary institution in America.
JTRAVBLS lUm
yamplr .which I saw, they have a richneas of iatelleot, and
H cheeriuhieas of deportment, that makes them Inity inte-
mitiDg, . Altogether, Boston is really a fine place. It
vm here that the revolution originated, which terminated
in the independence of America; and the town is justly
oelehmted as being the birth-place of that great luminary
in. literature and science, Dr. Franklin.
,f During my stay in Boston, which was only a few days,
1 'Wetit to a number of the public places ; among others,
the State^ijouse, from whence there is a most elegant
view of the town,, bay, shipping, neck, bridges, and the
whole countiy round, to the distance of from twelve to
fiibeen miles, ip each direction, presenting most picturesque
scenery, including a number of elegant villages. In one
direction, you can see ^wenty miles out at sea, and in ano>
ther, a mountain, said to be distant «ixty miles.
/ The bridges of Boston merit particular attention, beings
works of great extent and utili^, and constructed at a vast
expenc^i a proof of the sagacity and persevering industry
of this people. West Boston Bridge is upwards of 3000
feet longy and a causeway is conniected with it 3000 more,
connecting Boston with Cambridge, Chairlea River
Bridge is 1500 feet long, and^ Maiden Bridge is upwards
of 2400 feet long. They sre aU built of wood, and have
draws in the middle* The toll is reasonable. Long
Wharf has already been noticed. The Museum contains
a. very good collection of natural and artificial curiosities.
Tuesday, September 2d, at 8 o^dcck in the morning,
I set. out by the stage for Salem, distant about sevefiteen
miles. After crossing by Charles River Bridge^ abeady
noticed, we passed through Charlestown, a handsome town,
which is only separated from Boston by Charles River.
m
«
It oontains about 3000 inhabitants, and has two places of
public wonhip. The United States have a nsLvy-yvrd and
nnrine hospital here, and, towards the west end of the
town, dose by the river side, is the State>Prison, on the
same ptmoiple as those at Philadelphia and New York,
and mad to be under excellent management. At the
north side of the town is Bunker's Hill, celebrated in the
history of the American revolution. * ' " ^
Leaving Charlestown, and travelling little more than a
mile, by the sea-coast, we arrived at Mystic River, which
we passed by a bridge 2420 feet long, and constructed
upon the sanie principle as those ak^eady mentioned.
About four miles fix)m thence, we passed an extenave
swamp, where we were assailed by musquetoes of a very
large size. At the farther end of the swamp we passed a
floating bridge, and a litde after, ascending the bank, we
arrived at Lynn, where ive stopped to change horses, at a
very elegant tavern. Lynn is a prettj' little town, remaHt-
able for its extensive manufacture of shoes. From thence
we travelled to Salem, about seven miles, through a very
rugged, stony country, but by an excellent turnpike road,
made, I was informed, mostly by Irishmen. I may here
trice occasion to remark^ that the Irish emigrants are ex.
ceedingly useful in this country, and a great pordon of
the most rugged labour in it is performed by them. The
lower orders of the Irish are generally strong, robust men,
without money, and with a very slender education. Hence
they are generally unfit for any kind of mercantile employ-
ment, and those who have not learned some mechanical
profession get employment in various branches of labour,
for which they are well adapted; and, getting good wages,
they soon become independent and happy. Hence the
#
¥»:
><r
iTSAVSLS IN
losh are ramarkable'lbr their attachment to the American
government, while manyiither foreigners, partioulaily those
engaged in commerce^ are disconitented.and fretful.
The morning was damp and .hazy,, so that the view of
|he country was not very agrfeahle, an^ it was with regret
that I observed it began to rain just as I entered my place
of destination. : i.»js ,u v. . i. i?j^
Sal£m is, next to Boston, tlie largest town in Massf.
chusetts, and one of the earliest settled in the state. I%^is
situated on a peninsula formed by two branches ofvthe
sea, called North and South Rivers, and consists of about
1500 houses, and contained, in 1800, 9547 inhabitants.
The houses are built partly of wood, and parUy of brick ;
and many of them, are uncommonly elegant* The princi<
pal public buildings are a court-house, five congregational
churches, and one each for quakers and episcopalians. Sa-
lem carries on a very extensive shipping trade, more bu-
siness bluing done here in that line than.in;any town in the
New England states, Boston excepted. There is a ship-
yard in Salem, and a considerable manufactoig^ of ^sail*
cioth, A bank has been long jestablifihed^ The inhabit
tants are said to be industrio^s and frugali. and the ap^
pearance of the town indicates a ponsiderable accumulation
of wealth.
, On my arrival, I went to see the wliarves and shipping,
which are very extensive. Salem is remarkabl^^as )being>
the residence of Mr. Gray, reputed the greatest slwfjj'pwner
in America, having a vast. number of squdre-rigged vesn
sels, many of which are in the India trade. One of these
vessels was coming into port while I stood on the. .wharf,
and it appeared it would be with consid^^le difficulty
she would get into the harbour, tlie entrance being very
•
IK
MASHACHtJSEttS.
m
^^^'
shallow ; and I was informed, that, ih consequence of thb
circumstance, Mr. Gray was about to remove to Boston.
On my return to the Coffee-House^ I found the follow- '
ing sentiment in one of the Salem newspapers : " There
is Kason to fear that a peace will at length be concluded ^
between France and Britain ; and if that unfortunately }x,
the case, the independence of the latter is gone for ever,
and we may soon look for an attack upon the liberties of
America." In the course of my travels through the
United States, I have frequently heard similar sentiments,
principally from those professing the greatest regard for
Britain ; but I must say, that Aey appear to me to be
very incorrect. I grant it is better for Britain, or any
other nation, to continue in a state of war, than to make a
dishonourable peace, or to submit to have their rights in-
fringed by their neighbours ; but the sentiment in question,
unqualified as it is, seem.s to breathe a wish for eternal
war. It expressed a dread of Britain making peace at ^I,
and considers war and independence so intimately allied,
that the one cannot be given up without the other. But,
in my opinion, the greatest curse that ever befel Britain is
the present war— one of the greatest blessings to that
country would be an honourable and lasting peace. As
to the supposed attack upon the liberties of America, I
think it proceeds upon a very incorrect view of the sub-
ject, and %nplies an idea highly derogatory to the Ameri-
can character. It is perfectly obvious to me, from what
I have seen in this countrv, that the Americans could
maintain their liberties against the whole world combined,
and no single nation, however powerful, would be mad
enough to make* an attack, which would infallibly end in
disaster and disgrace. America contains upwards of six
%'
0k ,, TB^^^mM iK^
jsSQkios^.f3l^free piopie^ aiM)» if invaded, couldy at a short
notice, turn out a millioii of fightinfr men. This &ct is
weUi known in Europe, and would, of coune, enter into
the calculation of any general who would plan an attack
^iipon the country. He could^not hope for success with-
out, at least, an equal number ; and we may safely pre.
sume, that such an army will never be sent three thou-
sand miles, on an expedition, which, though succeaaftil,
would not pay one thousandth part of the expence.
The altemoon continued wet, and rather cokL I re-
turned to Boston in the evening by the stage.
1
#
i% '' • r
,1%
GHAFTER XtH.
JVi?w HampsJi^ire,
^ii\'
Being at iJie extwmlty «f iny journey to 'tte iio«ii-
etttwaid, aond in the fhetropoUs of the New Englaihd irtsMt^.
I diall, before leaving it, talce a view of the stutes cf New
Hampshire and Vermont.
^
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Is situated between 42^ 42^ and 45^13' north Mitu^e,
and 4° 23' and 19° Wf east longitude. Its greatest length is
182, and its greatest breadth 92 miles. Its area is 9491
square miles, contsuning 6,074,240 acres.
The state has about 15 miles of sea-coast, from whencti
it extends in breadth, and is generally level towards the
sea, rismg graduaMy from 20 to 30 miles, when the moun-
tains commence, and these are more lofty than in vsKf
other part of the United States ; the White Mountains being
visible 30 mUes out at sea, and computed by Dr. Bel^
knap at 10,000 feet, by Mr. WiHiams at 7800. Ther^
are iarge and rich valleys among the mountains, and 'k
number lof level phuns along Connecticut river. Th^
are several lakes in the state, but none of any great' im^
pQFtance, except Wimnpiseogeey near Ae centre, 24 miles
long, and of unequal breadth, fix)m 3 to 12 miles. It is
VOL. I.
n
yCWi«AMPBHIRE.
full of hlands, and, beings navigable in summer, and frozen
over in winter, it proves a considerable convenience to
that part of the country. The principal river is Connec-
ticut, which is the boundary line between this state and
Vermont. The Piscataquii^is the boundary line, for a lit-
tie way, between this state and the district of Maine ; and
forms the harbour for the only shipping port in New Hamp-
shire. There is a singular curiosity in the state called the
A<fttk\ which is a pass through the mountains, at one
pl9ce only 22 feet Wide; and; being bounded by rocks, aj.
moM; ]^erpendiculaf, and of • great height, presents a scene
strikingly picturesque.
The minerals quoted are ochres, isinglass, chrystals,
sulphur, free-stone, lead, black-lead, and copper ; but the
most valuable is iron^ which is found in many places, and
is wrought in considerable quantities,
.w The soil, near the sea-coast, is, in some places, sandy,
but! near[ the banks of rivers generally good, as is likewise
the, case in the valleys among the mountains. The moun-
tains are, many of them, rocky and barren, but others arc
ibrtile^.o^- the brows, and nearly all are covered witli
^berv
The climate is healthy, but the winters are long and
^vere, and there are great extremes Oi.' lieat and cold. Mr.
Belknap has observed the thermometer at 18° below 0',
and in^ummer it has risen to nearly 100° ; thF average is
i^bput 48/ or 50°. Snow Ues on the ground from three to
four months, and the use of sleighs, during that period, is
geneird. . The spring is rapid; and the summer and fall
are* generally pleasant.
The country w^s first discovered in 1614. The first
Settlement ^asinade in 1623. The inhabitant*i^k an ac-
msW HAMPtHIMU
n
tive part in the fcvolutionary war, and scoiC two ddbgwtes
to congress in 1774 ; in 1788 they adopted the federal
constitution:; and the state constitution, as it now stands,
was ratified in 1792. . The state sends two senators and
fjve reprea^lltatives to congress. . / . •'
The state is divided into six counties, and 219 town#
ships, of six miles square each. Its population in 1800
was 183,858, being nearly 20 to the square mile.
Although this appears but a thin population, yet it is to be
observed, that a great part of the state is covered by moun-
tains, which are incapable of cultivation. The sea-coast,
valleys, and fertile spots, are said to be thickly setded, and
these places have kept pace in improvements with the other
New England states. . Portsmouthf on the Pisca^qua ri-
ver, two miles from the sea, is tlie principal town, and b^r
ing the only seaport, it has a pretty good trade ; it con-
tains 5,500 inhabitants. Concged is the seat of govern*
ment, and contains 2050. Dover contains 2062 ; Am-
herst, 2150; Hanover, 1920; Exeter, 1730; Keene, 1645;
Charleston, 1634 ; Durham, 1128 ; there are 3 others,
containing from 500 to 1000. ,
Small villages and farm-houses are numerous, and the
country is pretty well supplied with good roads, and some
elegant bridges, of which the chief is across the Piscataqua,
seven miles above Portsmouth. It is 2600 feet long, and
cost 68,0<ID dollars. i i; ti.c.;i^j
Agrici^lture is the chief buskiess of the state, and is
well conducted. The principal products are beef, pork,
mutton, poultT}^ wheat, com, and other grain; butter,
cheese, flaxy fiemp, hops, ve^tables, apples, pears, &c« J
The ^x^oilntry people generally mantifad^re their own
clotlun|||%id;make consid^rable^uantitics of tow elot)i itov
m>
3m«r «Ain»iinit#;
#
ex})Qrtsitioii. The other manufiictures are^ashcs, maple-
iugw* hntks^ pottery, and iron wast. ^ >
. A great part of the surplus produce of thb state is car.
ried to Boston, which prevents it fixmn making a great
figure in the scale of exports ) the amount, ii^l805, was
608,408 dollars, but it sddom exceeds half a miCion.
All the export trade centres at Portnnouth.
The inhabitants arc represented as hardy, robust, and
active. Education has been vciy well attended to. There
is a college at Dartmouth, Supported by a fimd of 80,000
acres of land, and there are a number of academies^ schools,
and public libraries. ^ ^^ /
The govenunent is founded upon a bill of lights, declar-
ing that all men are bom equally free and independent;
and that all government originates from the people: that
every man has a right to worship God accorcyng to the
dictates of his conscience : that all electioas ought to
be fr^ and that eveiy inhabitsuit of the state, having the
proper qualifications, has an equal right to eleet, ai^d be
elected, into office : that there shall be no hereditary rights,
and the press shall be free.
The exercise of ths government is vested in a Icgisla-
ture, consisting <^ a senate and house of rqiresenatives ; a
governor and council to execute the laws ; and a judiciary
to promote justice between man and man. The senate
cons^<i^s of 13 members, chosen annually by Ae peofint ;
ihe members must be possessed of a freehold estate of
£, 200. The represent^ves are apportioned according to
tiie population, every town which has ISO rategblev polls
being entitled to one representative ; having 450, ^Sffijf are
endtktd to two. They are also elected annually^jg|l must
«ike {K>ssessed^a fisehoM o£>C« XO0. The ggMRor isyin
#
NEW RAVPSHTRE. 10^
like manner, elected annually, and must be possessed of a
ireehold of £, 500« There are five counsellors, who are
chosen annually, who must be possessed of freeholds
of £, 300. ' .
The following extr^ Ufo^ t)ie constitution ought to
be generally known.
** Knowledge and leanpng;, generally diffused through a
community, being essential to the presorvation of a firee
government; and spreading the opportumties and advan-
tages of education through the various parts of the coun-
try, b^ii^g highly conducive to promote thb end } it shall
be the duty of the legislators and magistrates, in aU future
penods of this government^ to cherish the interest of litera-
ture and the sciences, and all seminaries and public schools^
to encourage private and public institutions, rewards and
immunHie^ for thei promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences^
commerce, tradct manu&ctures, and natural history of thp
country; to coimtenance and inculcate ^ principles of
humanity and general benevolence; public aqd private
ch%iiy, industry and economy, honesty and punctuality^
sincerity, sobriety, and all social affections, and Generous
sentiments, among the people."
t
■.■ft4i-f^,r/t
^'m\
,».
. •
ma
TEBHONT.
i
.>■;■•/; • ;
•#*;
Vermont
Is situaHfed betwcei 42® 42' and 45« north latitude, and
3* 38^ aiid 5" 27' east lon^tude. it is 166 milei long,
and its gteate^ breadth is 93 itiites. Its area is about
10,237 square miles, or 6;55 1,680 atres. ' i* > --^^
-'This state is mostly hilly^bi!!* libt rocky, Mid towards
Canada it is' level. An extehislVe' ehain ^of high m<>untmns
runs through the middle, nearly south smd north, which
abounds with elegant scenery. ' Amon'g these there atrebeau-
ti^l and fertile Valkys ; and the whole is finely watered with
spnngs. Lake Cha^m]plain and its waters divides the state
from N^ York on" the west ; and the Connecticut river
from New Hampshire on the east. There- are several
rivers towards Canada. No part of> the state is on the
seaboard. ' • • -^'i* ^^tmi^u ^a:Lv:mmi^j-
Iron is ibund in abundance throughout the state. Lead,
copperas, flint, and vitriol have been found, and the west
side of the state abounds With marble.
This state, not^vithstanding its mountains, contains a
great deal of excellent soil.
The climate is similar to New Hampshire.
^' The territory composing Vermont, was long claimed by
the adjoining states of New Hampshire and New York;
but the inhabitants wished it to become an independent
ftate in 1777, and the grten mountain boys, aah^lhey were
l^SBMONT.
m
called^ took a very active jart in the war of the revolution;
bift they did not succeed in establishing their (^laim of in*
dependence till 1791, when they were adkmtted, a'I4th
state, into the union. The state constitution was adopted
in 1793, and Vermont now sends t^Q. senators, and^ fo]^
representatives, to congress. ". ;^^w, t i,Hnl "IT
, a. The state is divided into 12 counties, aoAiQ46 towni
ships, of six miles square. . The populatii!mj>1:^the ceiisus
of 1800, was 154j465, being upwardsiof 15 to daei square
mile. ■- .■ riw^wm^^^tii • .' .L : fbtxa^BUmuM m
: > Vermont being off the- seacoast, or^ as . it '^is, soihetimd^
termed, &r from a market, there are no large' commercisd
cities ; but there are a number of litde towns, few oi which
have more than two thous^d inhabitants, i ^: ^^'j : fiifbWpt^
MoNTPELLiER is the Seat of government, ffind eontiuhs
150O; Bennington 22i50, Windsor 2200, Rudand 213d,
Newbury 2000, Manchester 2000, Newfane 1700; ^
Albans 1400, Middlebury 1260, Burlmgton 1100, St
Hero lOOC Craftsbury 1000, Brunswick 1000.. " v !
i> The great business of the state is agriculture, in ^luch
the inhabitants are said to have made considerable pro-
gress. , The soil is generally more productive than that of
New Hampshire* The produce is neariy the same. The
brows of the mountains answer well for grazing, and they
raise great stores of beef and pork, with excellent butter
and cheese for market ; and of kite they have made great
progress in raising sheep and wool. ' vfi
The principal manufactures are of the domestic kind,
consisting of wool and flax for family use. Iron is m^u-
fectured, and a considerable quantity of pot and pearl
ashes. *»
#
104
^^BBllOlffr^
•
TJns only external tiadc. of.; Vermont is withx^r^bada^
and the elports,. in 1^5^ amounted to 169,403 doUats ;
biit the atole has a x^onsiderabk comifttntey thnnigfa thto
medium of its rivers^ with NeW York, Hartford, , and
Bostc^
The inhabitants are representedy by trayelierswhom I
ha^e convened withy as being hardy> robust, fiili«fealiited^
and florid in their ecnaaplexiotls. . As diey' are indsdy all
agricaltumlistt or mecfaaniGs, they ate independent in their
sentiments, and, their wants being mostly supplied among
themselves,, they are not subject to great vicissitude^ of
ibrtune, and are generally weakhy in proportion aa (they
are industrious.* The sysitem df education partakea of ihb
equality : they h»ve t?iliro semikiaries for the higiher branched
of eduealbn« but ^ chief objett of the legblatore has
been t6 ptovkle 1^ the general difiusion of knowledge,
b^ hxf'mg 'eMtm^ scho&ls iR tyery township: a fdan
high^ j)faiseworfhy)y jand wiiich c^rety eommimity ou^
to imitate..' .-^si^mr ■•:)■■ '
The dedamtion of rights is nearly the same as that of
New Hanq>8hire; but they have an article declanng that
no nfimk bom m the country, or brought over se^, can be
held in bondage after 21, and no ^male after 18 years of
The plan of government is legislative, executire, and
judiciary^, The legislative power is Vested in representa-
tives chosen annually, every free male of 2\ years and
Up^ivards, who pays taxes, having a vote. The executive
is vested in a governor, lieutenant-governor, and council
of 12, chosen annually in like mamier. And in order
^ that the freedom of the commonwealth may be kept in-
molate for ever," a council of censors is chosen once in
♦ ♦
YBBMONT.
lOS
seVen years, ivhose duty it is to see that tiie constitiitiori
has been preserved inviolate; whether the taxes have beeii
paid, and the public monies properly disposed of; whe^'
ther the public servants have done their duty, and the
laws been duly executed;, and .they are empowered, it
they judge it necessary, to call a convention^ to meet two
years after their sitting, to revise ^, atnend the cioiisti-^'
tution. ■■ ■ " '''
ri 1;'
i['
'•^
■ # ■ ■'-■■■■ *■■
i
?r
ivyu
'')'<
f
T
TSATBIiS IN
•
'3e (Br: ;-
'Having taken my leave of a number of kind friends,
with whom I had associated during my stay in Boston, I
^engaged a pass^ by the mail stage for New York, and
\vas called to take my place on the 4th of September, at
2 o'clock in the morning. It is the practice here for the
driver to call on the passengers before setting out, and it
^^ is attended with a considerable degree of convenience to
^* them, particularly when they set out early in the morning.
"i' ^ The mail stages here are altogether difierent in construe-
'^^ tion from the mail coaches in Britain^ They are long
machines, hung upon leather braces, with three 'seats
across, of a sufficient length to accommodate three persons
each, who all sit with their faces towards the horses. The
driver sits under cover, without any division between him
and the passengers ; and there is room for a person to sit
on each side of him. The driver, by the post-office re-
gulations, must be a white man, and he has the charge of
the mail, which is placed in a box below his seat. There
is no guard. The passengers' luggage is put below the
seats, or tied on behind the stage. They put nothing on
the top, and they take no outside passengers. The stages
are slightly built, and the roof suspended on pillars; with
a curtain, to be let down or folded up at pleasuitu The
t
Hll»^ftiflBn
d friends,
Boston, I
ifork, and
:ember, at
ere for the
;>yt, and it
^e^ence to
e morning,
n construe-
y are long
three seats
persons
IS. The
itween him
irson to sit
it-office re-
charge of
It.* There
|t below the
notlung on
Tlie stages'
lillars i with I
sure. The |
MASrACttV^TTS. Wt^
conveyance is easy, and in summer very Agreeable ; but it
must be exccsaiveJy cold in winter. .f '^ . !-
• There was an Englishman, a facetio^ merry fellow^
who lodged at Chsqspotin's, and took his> passage along
with me. On taking our places, we found a kwLy paaseni
ger already in the «tage, and our company was afterwards
augmented by three more, namely, < a gentkman from the
West Indies, one from Hudson, and a young lady. By
the time we got all the passengers and the mgJUon boardy
it was 3 o'clock, at which hour we set out from Boston
by West Boston biidge ; and three miles beyond it we
pa^d through Cambridge, which, at that early hour, I
could not see, but I learned that the situation is hand^'
same, and that it contains a university, which is reputed
the best literary mstitution in the United States. It was
established in 163B, and has now four large buildings,
with accommodations sufficient to contain upwards iof
200 students j who attend it annually, and are instructed
in all the various branches of hunum knowledge. Alt&dtim
ed to tiie institution are a philosophical apparatus, a small
museum, and a very extensive library. The village of
Cambridge contains about 1000 inhabitants^ The houses
are mostiy built of wood. The public buildings are, be-
sides tlie university^ a court-house, an episcopal, and a
coi^r^gational church. ^:: i
We travelled 13 miles before we had fair day-li^t, du-
ring which, we passed through Watertown and Wahham,
to Weston. It is to beii, obseh^ed, lliat towns, in the New
England states, do not always imply a collection of houses
in one pkM:e,^ sufficient to form a village. The whole
country is divided into districts, of about six miles sqfuare
each, and these are lalled towns, whether they be thickly
^«...
t
-— T
.f
i0d TBAV1IL8 VX^V.
settled or not. The arrangement of ^heae tdwni, is aoine^
what assimilated to the parishes in iBcotland, having each
a separate jurisdiction within itself, wliich regulates the
aifiurs of religion and of education, and makes proviuon
ibr the poor. Th^ ave also of great importance m the
ekcdons, whieh are conducted throughout the whole state
in one day, the people voting in their respective towns,
which has a tendency to prevent all bustle and confusion.
In travelling through the country, you go from one town
to another, and are never out of one ; it is; therefiare, only
where i the towns contain villages, that I mean to notice
th^m, and, in giving the population, it is to be obsen^,
that it includes the whole of the township, that being<the
mode in which the census is takeh. Westoh, which
I ^last noticed, contains about 1200 inhabitants. The
country is s^d to be well cultivated and thicket settled,
all the way from Boston.
mVWe could now see one another's faces, and the morn-
ing being clear and healthy, we wdre in high spirits, and
disposed for enjoyment. One of our lady passengers was
a beautiful country gkl, but we learned that she< was to
travel with us only 28 miles ; and our fiK»tious Ei^lish-
man seemed disposed to improve the^time by orations in
favour of her eyes, or beautiful twmklers as he called them.
They certainly were very pretty, and she had p blooming
Idok, the iiidication: of a hfythe hmtti accordiiig to the
Scot^ jxEOverb. The other lady, we learned, was travelling
to Springfield, 80: miles; but s^ie was qtiite eclipsed by
her lair companion, and came in for no share of the Eng-
lishman's compliments, while the other remained with us.
)5.'.^rom Weston, we passed through a thickly^ settled and
Well cultivated country, by Sudbu^^ Marlbofough, and
i
IIA88AORU81TT8.
109
is 8Glne-
ng each
lates the
proviuon
,ce in the
hole state
re towns,
>onfusaon.
one town
t to notice
obsen^,
being^the
m, which
Bits. The
£ly settled,
WestboKNi^; and, 45 miles from Boston, we arrived at
WoaCESTER. mtlfm^-'^-
. This is a pretty place, and said to be one of the largest
inland towns in the state, (t is the capital of a county to
which it gives the name^ and is situated in a pleasant val-
Iqr, mostly on one street, which is broad and handsome.
The houses are generally of wood, painted white ; and
are in number about 400. The mhabitants amount to
about 2500. The public buildings are a court-house^
jail, and two congregational churches. They have a pretty
extensive inland trade at this place, and the printing-busi-
ness has been long established here by a Mr. Thomas,
who is reputed to be the oldest printer in America. It is
proposed to open an inland i^vigation between this place
ind Providence, distant about 40 miles, and if it should
take place, it is supposed that it will be attended with
great advantage. ■ \^
iVikFrom hence we passed through Leicester and Spencer,
' and, getting into a hiliy country, we continued our course
to BrookfiEljd, about 21 miles from Worcester. This
b a handsome post^own, situated on Quebang river, 20
miles above its junction with Connecticut river ; and in a
rich^ fertile country, abounding in grain, grass, fruits, and l|
vegetables. It contains nearly 3000 inhabitants, and has ^
foiu* places for public worship. The river abounds with
fiih; smd the countxy round contains great quantities of
iron ore.
Seven miles from hence we reached Western, 73 miles
from Boston ;iaid here ds^-light having failed us, my ob-
servations on the scenery of the country were, terminated *
for the day i
■•iK^'i-H"' ?%>?fc'
ix.vtii^i::i^ '
:; mfmm>w^'i^,f^-^ys^<iii^^-i^4f
no
.' TUAVELS IN '.
This was the first inland journey i had made^ itr She
northern states, and I was highly delighted with evoy thing
I saw, which formed a perfect contrast to Georgia; and
the villages, the fields, the fan^^houses, the gardens, and the
orchards, far surpassed what is to be generally seen even
in '* Scotia, my dear, my native soil.'* The inhabitants
every where appeared to be industrious, contented, and
haj^y; and I found them always civil and well-bred^ and
ready to give me every information.
Our company were lively and cheerfuL Our fiK^etious
Englishman was quite in high spirits; and jocularly threat^
ened to have me denounced as a spy. I retaliated by
threatening to have have him denounced as a flatterer of
the fiur sex, of whom he seemed determined to spare nei-
ther age, features, nor complexion ; for the beauty having left
us, and ceasing^ to allure him by her *' witching smile," the
other lady, whom I did not think handsome, came in for
an extravagant share of compliment. '' The lught drave
on wiVsangs an' clatter.'' Our West Indian, who was'
a Yankee by buth, entertained us with a history of hind-
Ung; and we had a vast variety of songs, among which
was " Yankee Doodle."
In prosecu^g our journey to Springfield^ we stopped at
a small tavern to change horsies, and in the mean time went
into the house to warm ourselves, for the evening had be-
come cold. In passing througb the pailour we saw a. tall,
elegant girl, to whom our gentlemen began immediately to
make loye; but I prosecuted my way to the kitchen fire,
where there sat another young girl, and she was bduitiful.
She was dressed in substantial homespuI^ but very clean,
and was knitting a stocking. Her age might be abotit 16,
and her name was . Lucretia, I entered into conversation
MAMAGHUMTTS.
Ill
i; and
Hid the
incvcn
ibitants
ed, and
ed^ and
acetious
y threat^
iated by
ittercr of
pare nei-
avingleft
nile," the
in for
ktdrave
who was
t
of bund-
ig wluch
sppedat
lewent
had be-
Etw a tali,
to
chenfire,
Bigtifill.
clean^
kboutl6)
Lversatioit
pne
with her«iand her voiite nvas as sweet laii hei^ ^ouhtcnanoe.
I was jddtighled with hihr appearance. At length in came
the otlkirpaaaengers with.a bang; andi our facetious friend,
who seemed to have re^rved^ the vary quintessence of Uu
talent ibr compliment foil the ocoasionj began ah oration
about finearched^ ieyc-»bit>w8, aquiline noses(»-)and beaiitifiil
twinklers, which probably would have lasted half ah hour,
had wo not been edited axi^y to'take ^ii^^eats in the stage.
We soon observed that all pardes ivere not pdeasiedf for we
heaid the Yfmked bKUigrunibling as wb Ipa^qed them ; and
thotYooke^ lady passenger* observed, witha/tossof her head,
that she could not see what we all had to make such a fuas
about.
At 10o*clock we reached Springfield, said to be a
handsome and thriving town, situated on the east side of
the Connecticut river, 97 miles from Boston. It contains
about 1500 inhabitants, who carry on a considerable inlaiid
trade; and have established a respectable manufactory of
fire-arms. The public buildings are a court-house and
a congregational church.
The Connecticut River, on which Springfield is
situated, is one of the most considerable and important in
the United States. It rises on the high lands which sepa-
rate the states of V^mont and New Hampshire fix)m Upper
Canada; and pursuing a course a little to the west of south,
• falls into Long Island Sound; its length,' including its
windings, being about 300 miles. It forms the boundary
line between Vermont and New Hampshire, and passes
through the interior of Massachusetts and Connecticut.
Its banks are hi^y cultivated and thickly settled, through
its whole course. There is a bar at its outlet, on which
there is only 10 feet water, and interiorly it is much ob-
112
TRATSL8 IK
structcd by fiills; but it is navigable for sea Vessels to Hart-
fofd; and there is a great trade on the river above that place;
fxirticulaiijr downwuds, in flat^bottomed boats. The river
abounds with salmon, and other fish. It n in contempla-
tion to improve the navigation by locks at several places,
and to connect it with Merrimac river, distant 50 miles, by
a canal. .
Having crossed this river, the road runs nearly along
its west bank, 10 miles, to Suffield, in Connecticut,
where we stopped for the night Here I suspend my ac-
count of the journey to take a short review of the interest-
ing state of Massachusetts. A^
.t\ .. ..>^iir>'- i>r
' , "! ■
.,.J
' ihi^i.
'■ : ■ • I ,
I).
'MtJ^iKJ
' • .;. . *! V, . i
I ,.■. ,.v,', .1*, , , V
. f ■.'.».
MA83ACIIU8ETT8.
113
!0 Hflft-
rt place;
"he river
itempla-
l places,
i^esjbj
•ly along
nccticut,
i my ac-
: ustereflt-
.liiucin
, - J - - •
CHAPTER XVI.
.a.,
Massachusetts
'.SSfiXi^
..'t^
Is situated between 41® 13' and 42«» 52' north latitude,
and 3® 28' and 7° east longitude. Its extreme length is
190 miles, and its greatest breadth 100. Its square con
tents is 8765 miles, being about 5,609,600 acres
The face of the country is strikingly diversified. The
coast, on the east side, is indented with bays, and studded
mth islands, which afford ample harbours for shipping;
and support a hardy race of sailors and fishermen. To-
ward the middle the surface is agreeably uneven, and the
west swells out into mountains, s6me of which are of very
considerable height. The state is well watered, abound-
ing in rivers and small lakes. The principal rivers are
Connecticut and Merrimac, already noticed.
The principal mineral is iron, of which the state pro-
duces a great quantity. A copper mine has been disco-
vered ; and there are considerable quantities of clays and
ochres, and slate, marble, and limestone.
The soil b various. Toward the sea-coast it is sandy
and barren. In the interior it improves ; and toward the
western parts, where the country is hill^r, it is best adapted
for grazing. Wheat crops are not abundant, but it pro-
duces Indian, corn, rye, barley, and oats. Vegetables
and firuit come to great perfection, and are of much value
VOL.- I. -•'''-■ p
,it X. ^:!.....,..u.u^J.^r
IJLjt yi89,«:C|IU9BTTS.
in the state. Flax and some hemp aiie cultivated; and
hops grow luxuriantly. • - ^ , »**^^ ^-^.v i
vr The climate is very miich assimilated to that of Rhode
Island. Toward the west, the winters aie more cold and
severe than on the co^st^ but the w,ei^;ther is more steady,
and the whole is healthy.
Massachusetts was first settled, in 1620, by a colony of
puritans from Holland, who had been driven thence from
England, 20 yejtfs before. Thes^e arrived and settled ^
jpiypiouth ; and eight years tliereafter, another colony ar-
rived from Ei^glai^, and settled at 3^em. These cplo-
nies soon encreai^d, and laid the founds^tion for a powerful
state, now one of the first- in the union. The revolution
ori^ated in Massachu^tts, wfiich bore m actjve share
throughout the war. ^t now sends 17 representatives pnd
tw9i senators tp the congress of the United States.
^^assachuseftis proper, is divided into J^ coun^ps and
279 tp^vnships. The inliabitants^ by last cen$ui», amount-
eji to 422,845; being about 48 tp the square niile.
:; The state is well cultivated ^nd abounds wid^ ^ycalth.
Boston is the capital, an^ thp next tpwij in importance is
Salem. Thpse, and ^ever^ 'Others^ have beoi notioed.
Of Uie ren^ainder, th<2 most important is Marbleheady a
sea-port containing upwards of 5000 inhabitants. Newt^ij.
ryport, is a handsome sea-port, containing ne^ly 6000 in-
habitants, and has several manu|^ctones» a^ a large ^ip-
pijig trade. Ipsrwich contains 3000 inhabitants ; and <Jon-
^dy a flourishing tpwn on Cpncord riv^ is remarf^able
as being the place wbere the provincMiJ congress held
their delib^^tions during the -m^* Taunt«m, Northampton,
Stockb|*idg;e, iPitts^eld, and Barnstaple, ^re all towns of
considerable note. The state is intersected in every di-
HAWACiiUBtittili
115
recdoh' iP^llif good roads, dhd thb bridge^'di^ hu'iheroud
and very important;
The greater part of the manu&ctures have already been
enumerated in the account of Boston ; but it may be no-
ticied, thut, :.. the interior, thope is a vast variety of donies^
tic mahufdctures / and several othero upon a Iiarger scalo^
particularly of woollen and cotton. ^^ ' <
The exports of the state arfe prbVii^6iii^, thhber, aslies,
fikx-seed, bees- wax/ fish, oil, daddler}% cab^et-worky
boots and shoes, nails, tow-cloth, iron' Utensils, glass, spi-
rits, 8cc. The imports are British niatiuiactures, tea, wine;
silks, spirits, coiFee, cotton. Sec. Comih^c^ is pursued
mth an ardent spirit iti the state ; and it is said that Mas-
sachusetts bWns more'shi|!>ping than any other state in the
Uhibh. The exports, in 1805, amountied to 19,43^657
doUbrs ; but 14,758,6015 dollars consisted of foreign proi
duce, and, of the remainder, a considerable portibtl Wa^
that of other states. The state has very extensive fishe-
ries, the product of which is annually of ^Teat value.
The state of society is a good deal' aSsiuiHated to that of
Rhode Island, described in the tenth chapter, with this
essential difference, that' slavery is totally abolished in all'
its branches. The air is, like that of Britain, '^ too pure for
a slave to live in ;" and, with regard to the white people,
I ihink it is ** more pure,'* for here they are all on an
equal footing, having neither uobles, nor priests, nor rents,
nor tythes. The religious matters, like the state of Rhode
Island, and^ indeed, all the other states, ai'e managed by
each religious sect In its own way, who are not suflfered
to interfere with the civil rijghts of their neighbours, so that
the sting is drawn out of the tdl of the scorpion of reli-
gious discord; No sect is d^titd above another; and
all have reason to be thankful for the blessings they en-
joy, in the protection of equal laws. The literary, humane,
and, other institutions are numerous, and exhibit a £ur
trait of the character of the inhabitants. . w
^,,,. Qn the subject of literature, the constitution declfirjes,
that '* wisdom and knowledge, as well as virtue, diffused
generally among the body of the people, being necessary for
the preservation of their rights and liberties ; and as these de-
pend on spreading the opportunities and advantages of edu.
cation, in the various parts of the country, and among the
dijBerePit orders of the people, it shall be the duty of the. le-
gislatures and magbtrates, in all future periods of the
commonwealth, to cherish the interests of literature and
the sciences, ^n4 all senunaries of them; especially the
university at Cambridge, public schools, and grammar,
schools in the town§ ; to encourage private societies and
and public institutions, by rewards and immunities, for
the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences,, commercci
trades, manufactures, and a natural history of the countr}-;
to ^countenance and .inculcate the principles of humanity
and g^ieral benevolence, public and private charity,. in»
dustry and frugality, honesty and punctuality in their deal-
ings ; smcerity, good-humour, and all social affections and
generous sentiments among the people."
Dr» Morse says, ** According to the laws of this common-
wealth, every town having 50 householders or upwards, is to
be provided with one or more schoolmasters, to teach chil-
dren and youth to read and write, and instruct them in the
English langua^, arithmetic, orthography, and decent be-
haviour; and where, any town has 200 families, there is
also to be agrarnxnar-school set up therein, and some dis-
creet person^ weU instructedinthe Latin, Greeks and Eng-
*
M A88 ACfB17SETT|« 1 If
lish languages, procured to keep the same, and be suitably
paid by the inhabitants. The penalty for neglect of schootsj
in towns of 50 fiimilies, is;C*10; those of 100 families,
£.20i and of 150/^.30.
The state government is vested in a senate and house
of r^iresentatives, styled the General Court; a governor,
lieutenant-governor, and council. The senators are 40 in
number, and are elected annually^ in districts; and the
i'oters must be possessed of a freehold estate of £, 3, or
any estate of the value of /.60f The representatives are
elected annually, in townships : evoy corporate town coni-
taining 150 rateable polls elect 1, those containing 375 elect
2, those containing 600 elect 3, and so on, making 225
the number for every additional representative.. The elec-
tors must be possessed of the same property as for senar
tors. The governor is S|tyled his exceUenct^, and must be
possessed of a freehold oi ^, 1000. He is elected annually r
by those qualified to vote for senators and representatives.
The lieutenant-governor is styled his honour y and must
have the same qualifications, and be elected in the same
manner, as the governor. The coimcil consists of 9 per-
sons, chosen from the senators by jdint ballot of the se-
nators and representadves.
The District of Maine is politically connected
with Massachusetts, and is of great extent, being about
250 miles long by 192 broad, and contains an area of
34,000 square miles, or 21,760,000 acres.
The first setdement took place about the year 1630 ;
and the inhabitants, who have been greatly augmented by
em^rations from the adjoining states, amounted, by the
last census, to 151,719, being less than 4 to the square
mile ; but they are rapidly increasing.
There are a considereble number of totvns on'tliie' cdast,
of which the cMef is Portland, which contains nearfy 4000
inhabituits, tod has a great and increasing trade. ¥M is
the second in importance, and is a place of considerable
business. HaUirwdly Wiseasiet, ahd Mdchias 'sxt cctoA-
derable places^ to si^' nothing 6f Fassamaquoddtf,gi:^bti of
Land^s End in CormbaUy or Johnny Gtdafs Ihus&i ait the
very extremity of th^ Union, and which sends outa con-
^derable ntmiber of small vessels. *
The land oA die scia-coast is stonly and l!iiri^; biit
thefe are tracts of good land in the interior of tihe cdtihliy,
which prodklce graih and fruits, and die country is remark-
ably weHcdbulatedfi^ grazing.
'tbt principal ti^die consists in luimber and fish, of Which
the inhabitants darty great quantities to the sea-ports of
America, and to the West Indiies. The manufactures are
principally of the domestic kind.
The state of society is nearly d^i^^^ame as in Massadiu*
setts. . ;
The fece of the country is hilly, but not mountainous;
and the coast is completely indented with bays and rivers,
^he winters are long and severe, with clear, setded wea-
ther. The summers are short, but very agreeable. Of
spring there is hardly aiiy; but the autumns are generally
clear and healdiy.
'■;, t
G|l^Klt^TlCU7.
Jll
M ',r k
•m
i.'
CHAPTER XVn.
!!#>'
•:«1T0^ ■
Hartfordy — J^ewhaveriy^ Stamford.
•<\'j ■
^^?5f
September 5. We resumed our Jounwy this
inorntng at 3 o^clock, and travelled towards Hartford,
kdepbg near the banks of the river. The tnoming tite
set^e apd clear, but a little cold. We could see notfaitig
of the country at that early hour ; but \9€ were informed
that it/was handsome^ and well improved. The road i^
level and good^ Ten miles from Suffield, tiis passed
through ^m(/^r, a pleasant to^iH) situated on Windsor
Feiry^ River, which We passed by a' wooden bridge. Wc
mm had day^light, and an agreeable journey for six miles
ferthei'i to Hartfonl,* which we reached fit 7 o'clock, to
breakBeit. ' \r.:A:t^P " . ■■;■■' ■■. .^^?k.
HaIitjoro is Mtendsome citf^, the capital of "CisftiSc*
tieutj and is, alternately with Newfeiven, the ^t of k-
gislatiicii lor the state. It is situated on Connecticut Ri*
ver, at the head of slo^ navigation, 50 miles above Long
Island sound. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossirtg
one another at ri^ angles ; but they are not pav^d, and,
when I saw them^ they were veiy muddy. The city con-
sists of about 400 houses, and contains between 3 and 4000
inhabitants*. The public buildings are the State-House,
an elegant edifice, two congi'egational churches, and one
* By the census pf 1810 they were 3,955.
im
w-tttATBLr'tir''.-
episcopal church. The citizens cany cm e active com-
merce, in all the products of the state, to the southern
states and the West Indies y and they have a large share
of country trade. Considerable manu&ctures are carried
on with spirit, and air^ |itic^«k$iiijg> r IFhe marketat are well
supplied with wholesome provisions, which are sold at
reasonable rates.
On leavin^^ the city, we got an addition to our company,
of some students going to-Newhaven, and sonie young
ladies ; and we had a great deal of entertainment from the
inemarks : of our facetious Englishmari, ivho began by
questicHiing the stud^ts, why the citizens of Hartford had
.n(^ paved the streets. They gave some account of it,
wMch I do not recollect; but it> was notsatisf:<ctory; and
one of our company attempted to : solve the diiBoulty, by
^Uleging that it was probably with a view of encouraging
the growth of the youi^ women.; He had remarked^ that
the yoimg ladies of Hartford were :unconim*^y tall, and,
as sap and seal were very necessary to the growtiiof vege-
taUe substances, and the citizens of Hartford weie a phi-
Ipaop^ical people, and *^ full of notions," it was likely they
h^^ied tiie experinient witii the aailmal breation, and had
succeeded. The students were iughlydii^erted, andkughed
heartily at what they called his odd ** ^tlon.** The la-
dies in the stage were too young to attract the attention of
our friend ; but many a remark did he miake on those we
passedjwho, " to conceal nothing," asGoldsmith says, "were
certainly very handsome." The weather was delightful,
and the view of the country vi^s lughly gratifying. The
fields were well cultivated, abounding with fruits of aHl
3orts ; and we purchased from a countryman, en passant,
CONNBCTICUT.
121
a whole basket full of peaches for a mere trifle, which kept,
us well supplied in fruit the whole way to Newhaven. .^
We took, as we were informed, a new road, and, pass-^
ing several villages of inferior note, we reached Walling-
ford, 26 miles from Hartford, about 12 o'clock. Here
we had a delightful view, and were informed that this dis-
trict was celebrated for raising onions, and that a company
of young girls had cultivated that root so successfully, in
a neighbouring town, that they had built i\ church with
the proceeds. This account of the industry of thr. yjung
women was highly gratifying, and we were really delight-
ed with their blooming countenances, and the cleanly, sub-
stantial dress which they wore. It was plain and simple,
but so much the better ;
For loveliness *>
iTeeds not the foreign aid of ornament,
But is, when unadom'd, adorn'd the moat. '
;.,,■, , ■■ ■ . . . ■/ ■ . ■ .' '>
In our way towards Newhaven, we passed through a
very elegant country, where we had a number of fine
views; and we reached the great, enlightened cily of Con-
necticut, at 2 o'clock. Here we stopped for .dinner, and
we had some little time to take a view of the town.
Newhaven is a handsome city. The surrounding
sceneiy is very fine, and the situation pleasant^ and &vou-
rable for commerce. It is built on a considerable bay, on
Long Island Soimd, and covers part of a pretty extensive
plain, having a ri^ver on each side of it. The streets cross
one another at right angles, and ^ere is a square in the
middle, roimd l^lnch are the public buildings, which have
a very handsome appearance. They are the colleges,
State-House, three, congregational, and one episcopal
VOL. I. <^
<ti -
12^
.t< TfiAVBU IK
tiburch. I regretted that my time did not permit me to
see the College^ which is esteemed one of the best semi-
nttHeft in the United States, and, by the citizens of New.
haven> is considered the very best. The city contains
nearly 6000 inhabitants^ who carry on a very active trade
with New York and the West Indies; and they have esta-
blished ConsidemMe manufactures) which are said to be in
a thiiving state.
We took our d^atture from Newhaven about- 4
o^dOckf and travelling thirteen miles through a pretty
good tract of country, ak>ng the Sound, we readied ilii/.
Jhif/^j a considerable town, having sevtinl ehurchesi and
from thence, tlttou]g^ a country neariy similar, a^few miles,
we passed the Housatonic River y by a letry. 'Das river
rises about the borders of Massachusetts, and running a
south-east course, the whole breadth of the state of Con-
necticut, &lls into the Sound a Utde below where we
crossed it. It is navigable to Derby, twelve miles up,
and above t!)at is very important for n^ls and maohineTy;
iiie country on its banks is said to be veiy romantic.
Fbur miles Irom this river we passed Stratfirdf sl plea-
i§ant town, and of -oonsiderable extent ; and now day-light
£uled us, and terminated my observations.
We continued our course through J^eij^A/ and Mr-
wtdky ssdd t6 be considerable and pleasant towns ; and at
12 o'clock readied Stamford^ 44 miles from Newhaven,
where we stopped for die night. In our way, we passed
a number of rivers of ilifferior note, andfi^ of the eoun-
try appeared to be rough, and the road vefjMbB^: but we
Were informed that a new line of tun!i(||feij[^d was in
forwardness, and would soon be fini^d,«r
.,lw.
qOJfN^CTICVT. JlSi3
'■%^
CHAFTBR XVni.
ij'.*'
Connecticut
•^v
Is skiiated lietw^en 41° a^ 42° north latitude, and 3°
20'^ And 5^ fast longitude; Its greatest length is 83 niile9>
and ^ greateat i>readth 72. Its area is 4400 square miks,
or 2,816,000 acres. • ':
/ 1 'P» faee flf #ie country is agreeaUy uneven. To the
fputli the epa0l^e:(itends along the sound the whok length
i0ftlpi?^laite, and ha^hwnyfiAe, inlets, which are higWy ad'
Vai^qgfQyp ;to jefflwrnarccvt Towards the north-west the
co^Miy swePa 0ul into high, bn^en, hiUy lands, but the^
aife no iiiount»aia» i THi§ faiilly country is said to be vevy
rQnmim^< Whie fitote U remai&ably'weU watered^ abound-
in^4«.^qi^r $tneam9« >'i^he pi^eipa] rivers are Connfaoti-
eut^^wid Umsmimy.2i\ff9»l^ mentioned ; and the Thai9^
This last river is formed at Nocmch of two brandies, call-
ed Shetufsket^aod lat^ m&s ; and thence runs a due south
Goiirse^ 14 ii#PS, to the sound. It has a fine harbour, at
New London^iBnd is navigable for sm^ vessels to Nor-
wich.-- -I; i,:..-
Iron ore is Ibund in the state, in great abundance, and
l^id, Cf^^xer, .^od' zinc have also been discovered, though
in itogfeat quantities. Pit^soalhas been found, but, I be-
lieve, not kisnii&cient quantitjrto induce the inhabitants to
dig for it.^ ; There are a number iof mineral springs in the
state; Ihe most im|)ortant is in Lichfield county, which is
124 CONNECTICUT.
t
hi^y impregnated with carBonic acid gas, and sulphurat-
ed hydrogen gas; and is said to be very useful in curing
various diseases, particularly dyspepsia, rheumatism, and
those of the cutaneous kind.
'■: The soil is various, some parts being poor and sandy,
dnd some very fertile; generally speaking, there is a great
deal of good huid, and the state is remarkably well calcu-
lated for grazing. -
The climate is subject to great and sudden changes, pass-
ing to the extremes of heat and cold ; but it is very healthy,
and the state abounds with remarkable instances of km.
gevity. •• ■ •/ • ..K .''.,-: •
The firs^ settlement Was made in 1ll!f year 1633) by
some Dutch and English traders with the Indians; "Ih
1662, a charter was granted by Charies the 2d, wMch ^11
swerves as the baas of the me govemnffent; and^hfeh,
fh>m the ign^wice of the British government^ at that lime,
of the geography of the country, has involved some> ^-
gukr disputes about land titles. Connecticut bore ai» ac-
tive share in the war for independence;* and itow forms^ a
•very important state in the union, sending two senators
and seven representatives to congitess.
' The state is divided into eight countiies and 107 town-
sl^ps. The population, in 1800, was 251^002; including
951 slaves, being about 57 to a squane 'mile. ^^^^
The country is highly improved, and abounds with
handsome towns, villages, and ferm-houses^ There are
five incorporated cities, viz. Bartjord, AfewAaven, Mw
Londorty Norwick, and Mtddletawrii. The two &«t have
been noticed. New London is handsomely situated on
the Thames, and»has an excellent harbour, and extensive
trade. It contains upwards of 3000 inhabit»its, and has
COXNECTICUT.
125
a bttiky'and three houses for public worship; Nonmek
is on the same river, at the head of navigation, and has nu-
merous manufiictures and an extensive trade. It contains
nearly 3000 inhabitants, and has a court-house, a bank, an
insurance company, an academy, and three places for pub>
lie worship. Middietawn, situated on Connecticut river,
15 miles below Hartford, contains about 2000 inhabitants,
and carries on a considerable trade. There is a bank, an
insurance company, a court-house and two places for pub-
lic worship in- the city. Lichfield is a fine town, contain-
ing upwards of 4000 people* It is beautifully situated in
an elevated part of the state, and has ^a court-house, meet-
ing-house, and academy. JFethersfield is thfe oldest town
in the state/ apd is remarkable for the Culture of onions.
The other villages are num^poni, the whole state being
studded with ^m, containi^ from 500 to 1500 or 2000
inhabitants; among others may be mentioned Danbury^
Wmdhamy Haddam^ and ToUand, The houses are gene-
rally built of wood, on a handsome plan, and are painted
wdiite; which gives the country an air of great cleanliness
and neatness. This enterprising little state first set the
example of making turnpike roads in New England, and
these and other good roads are so abundant, that travel-
ling is facilitated in all directions. There are a number
of bridges in the s^e, some of them constructed at great
expenoe, which are of great utility.
The agriculture of the state is in a condition which
speaks volumes in praise of equal laws. There is no feu-
did system, and no law of primogeniture ; hence there are
no overgrown estates on the one hand, and few of those
employed in agriculture are depressed by poverty on the
other. The farms arc generally fixjm 50 to 500 acres-,
id6
coMMCOTioirr.
cukkated by a hardy, industrioua race, whose labour is
rewarded by the bleaaing;! of heaven in *' peace* and health,
and sweet content." But it is said, that all the sons of
Connecticut are not thus wise. There is a superabun-
dance of iht learned professions, pEirticularly in the law de-
partment, who keep the state embroiled in litigation.
** God made man upright, but they have sought out many
inventions." The produce of the state is wheat, rye, In-
dian com, oats, barley, buck-wheat, flax, a large quantity,
and some hemp, with a great variety of vegetables, and
fruit. The soil is well adapted to grazing, and vast quan-
tities of cheese and'butter are made; and much pork is
cured. Cyder is also made in great plenty and peti-
tion.
The farmers of Conne«tij|ut, and their femilies, are ge-
nerally dressed in cloth of their own mannfiM^ture, which
is substantial and good ; and there are considerafale and
very important manu&ctures, on' a larger scale^ throughout
tbe state, via. woollens, linens, cottons, leather of every
description, hats, stockings, paper, wire, bells, soap, can-
dles, oil, clocks and watches, earthen and stone ware, chaiaes,
harness, &€i
The state has a very considerable coasting and foreign
trade. The exports, in 1805, amounted to l,443,729dol.
lars. They are principally to the West India islands, eon-
sisting of live stock, timber, grain, fruit, fish, and provi-
sions. The imports consist of manufactured piece goods
of the finer kinds, wines, and groceries.
The population of Connecticut consists of fermers, me-
chanics, rnanu&cturers, ministers of religion, inatruetors
of youth, doctors of medicine, and lawyers. There am no
idle people to be seen, although it is said that too many
CONNECTIOUT.
127
ore engaged in the learned professions, and Connecticut
sends out a full proportion of luminaries annually, to en-
lighten other states. Education is upon an excellent foot-
ing, and the school fund is more ample than that of any
other state. The college at Newhaven, which is named
Yale College, has been already noticed, and academies have
been established at Greenfield, Plainfield, Canterbury, Nor-
wich, Windham, and Pomfret. The law directs that a
gramnuur school shall be kept in every county town
throughout the state ; but the great, popular, and perma-
nent advantage on this branch, arises from the establish-
ment of schools in every township, being an arrangement
similar to the parish schools of Scotland, and which pro*
duoed similar effects, a general diffusion of knowledge,
'* steady habits," and sobriety of manners. In religion,
the form of church government is generally congregational
or pre8b3rterian, but every other form may be freely exer-
cised. The form of 'government is' derived from the an-
cient charter; by which the legislative authority is vested
in a governor, deputy governor, twelve assistants or cpun-
aettors, and the representatives of the people, styled the
Oeneral Assembly, They are divided into two branches,
of which the governor, deputy governor, and assistants
form one, and the representatives the other ; and no law
can pass widiout the concurrence of both. The gover-
nors and assistants are choseiji annually, and the represent
tatives, who must not exceed two for each town, are chosen
twice each year, ^he sufege is universal, every freeman
who is of age haing a vote, without regard to propert}%
.;s;
•»♦
128
TRAVELS IN
w ■
CHAPTER XIX.
■• '%\<^-
Horseneck, — Harlem., — New-York.
September e. This momlng^ at a o'clock, we took
our seats in the stage. I was diverted by sr dialogue be-
tw^ the two drivers, in .^vhich the word ^ess occurred
so^,^quently, that I could hardly hear any 'thing else.
" I guess this string's n<Jt loOg enough. " O yes, I guess
it is." O yt%,J guess Til make it do." "There,—!
«# guess you've fixed it" " Yes, I guess you guess right."
Leaving Stanford we passed several creeks. The morn-
ing was raw and foggy. At the dawn of day, we reach-
ed a considerable rising ground, called Horseneck, and
we alighted, and walked up the hill, by a winding road.
Here we were told a singular anecdote of Major Putnam.
A part of the British armyj were encamped not &r firom
this hill, and the niajoc' went to the top of it, in a fog, to
reconnoitre; just as he reached the top, the fog cleared
away, and he found himself close by a coi^ of British
cavalry, who immediately pursued him. He clapped
spurs to his horse, and, not having time to keep the road,
galloped right down the hill, and, Strang to tell! reached
the plain unhurt ; and thus eluded his pursuers. A few
miles from thence we passed Byram River, and entered the
state of New York.
NtW YOtLK*
1^$^
we took
3gue be-
ocpvirred
ling else,
i, I guess
rhere,— I
ss right."
he mom-
ive reaeh-
teck, and
road.
Putnam,
fu^firom
a fog, to
cleared
ii British
clapped
the road,
reached
A few
iteredthe
'The first township we came to in this state was Kye,
containing about 1000 inhabitants. The soil appeared
pretty good, but the face of the cpuntiy is rough and
stony. We continued our course through East and West
Chester, both considerable townships ; near the last is «
manufacture of earthen ware, said to be in a thriving states
The soil in this district seems to be poor and sandy 5 but
we were informed k was well calculated for sheep kid
cattle, the flocks of which were encieasing. •^-
Nine miles J&om New York, we passed into York ;
Island, by a Wjooden bridge, at Haiienn; and, continue
ing our course'Ji)irbn^ the mid^ of ^e island, whickt
abounds widi numerous villas and {^easure-grounda^'.
generally the property of the merchants of New Ycm4c,
we reached the city at ten o'clock. I was highly gratifi-
ed by my tour to th,e New England states^
I continued in New York, transacting various mercan^^r
tile business^ until the 25th of September ; during which^ '
time, I again called on Thomas Paine, in comp^ with
his Mend, formerly ' mentioned* Paine was still at th^
house.of M»^ Palmer, but his leg liad got much better,
and he was in good spirits^ News had arrived that mom-^
ing, that a peace had been concluded' between France and
England; but Psune said, he did not believe it; and iaigdy^^
a£nnedy that while the present form of government lasted
in England, there would be ho peace. The government
was committed in a war system, and would pro^cutie 4t
as long as they could command the means. • Hi^' thett
turned up a newspaper, which had recentiy been establish-
ed at New York, and, after iiea&g several paragraphs^ hd
observed that he could not understand what th^ "editor
vvas driving at He pretended to be a great frfend of
VOL. I.
»
#
lao
TBiiyELS IN
Bntain) and yet he was oonstantly wrifkg against peace,
and the best interests of the country ; and in place of be.
ing guided by the plain dictates ofi.common se^ise, he
aimed at flowery, embellished language^ and glided away
intQ the ^ry regions of speculative nonsense, more like a
madman than" the editor of a newspaper. After a good
deai pf general conversation, we took our leave.
A lew days thereafter, his friend handed me a piece in
MS., intended for the inewspapers ; and requested me to
copy it, and keep the original ; and a& Paine has made a
great noise in theaworkl, I shsdl here insert it, as a rdick
Oif ^Xii extraordinary political character, and as a very good
^peeimen of the ficuteiiess of his mindf and his turn for
W^ it the advanced age of 70. i^qov; '
'•^Hfwas:
em'-'i:>
^* For tfie Citiztiu
^f\\ must tie fi gv^t consolntion to poor iMr. -t«^!& friends,
if he has any, toj l^eap that his insanity hicreases beyond all
hopef» o(j recovery* i His C9m is truly pitiable x, I he works
h^ ajt t^ ^de pf^Q^scMef'^making; bintiieisnot a good
hsm4 fit it, fqr the Cfiseisr that the ntore he labours, th(
lil^ore h§ iii laughed at^and his malady increases with eveij
^ f^Jn his paper of Thursday, September 18th, the spirit
^pifp^iecy seizes him, and he leaps from the earth, gets
iiBtBld^ (^ a cloud, and predicts universal darkness to the
|llhM>iMt8 of this lower WQiid.
t** Spgaking of the rumours of peace between France and \
J^pgl^ndr he says, * we wiU: not believe it till we see it
gazetted (meatung in thci X^pndon Gazette), and then,* says |
he, * wewiWaver, thst the sun which dawns upon that
i'i
,.«P«v
WW YORK,
131
a piece in
ited me to
las made a
as a retick
very good
is turn for
event will be the darkest that ever rose (dnce the trans-
gression of our first parents brought sin into the world.'
This is the first time we ever heard of the sun shining
darkness. But darkness or light, sense or nonsense, sun^
shine or moonshine/ are all alike to a lunatic. — He then
goes on. * In a rcontinuance,' says he, ' of war only
can Britain look for salvatbn. That star once extinguish-
ed, all will be darkness and eternal night over the face of
the creatiop*'—- The devUitwill! And jMray, Mr; s-^*-*,
will the moofSi shine darkness too? and will all thefrsts^
twinkle darkness? If that should be the case, you had
better sell your |Mress^ and set up tallow-chandler. There
will be more demand for candles than for new^pers,
when those dark days come.
*^ But as you are a man that write for a livelihood, and
I suppose you find it hard wcnrk to rub on, I would ad-
vise you, as a friend, not to lay out all your cash upon
candle-making, for my opinion is, that, whether England
make peace or not, or whether she is conquered or not
conquered, that the sun will rise as glorious, and shine as
bright on that day, as if no sueh triBing things had hap-
|)ened."
It appeared in the sequel, that Paine was correct in his
opinion^ and the editor was gratified in his wish — there
was no peace.
vn
■ >^*?«<\^- ■.-> ■'^^m^'y-\^^'
132
ytmr YORK,
■J. r^'i"rtimt^:'h>:f
■ ) ■'
■ v^t-iy
'^■^m^
CHAPTER XX.
, ^'h New York.
This ihteresting state is situated betWeen 40® 33' and
4j5« tt&rth latitude, and 3° 43' east, and 2«> 43' we^t lon^-
tude?" its extrertie leingth, from east to west, bemg 340,
aiid extreme breadth^ from noitftto sotith, 317 miles;
but it is very irregular. The square contents amount to
abdut 52,125 square miles, or 33,360,000 acres; being
1^8,000 square miles larger than Scotland.
--'There is a vast viai^iety in' the fecfe of the country. Long
Mand and Staten Island are ^tuated at its southern extre*
itilty, and are interesting. The state is boundied by Gon-
rtcfeticut on the east, 'New Jersey on die west, extending
in breadth to the highlands, witli ah agreeably uiieven sur<
face. Fit>m the highlands, about 50 miles abovie New
York, the state is hilly, in many places mountainous, and
the hills continue to the extremity of the state northward,
and to Utica westward. From thence to its western e2i-
tfemity, nearly 300 miles, there is a most elegant country,
rifch and wdl watered^ having spurs of the Allegany^ moun-
tains on the one side, and oh the other the lakes Ontario
and Erie, two of the finest sheets of water in the world.
The lakes are so numerous, that the bare mention of the
namek tif the most important must suffice in this place.
Besides th^ large lakes, there are Lake Qhamplain^ Lake
Oeorgey Oneida^ OnorKhgo, Skeneateless, Owascu, Ca-
NSW TOKK.
las
)o 33' and
ire^t longi-
jeing 340,
17 miles;
amount to
€S ; being
Ltry. Long
hern extre-
jd by Gon.
extending
ineven sur-
ibove New
unous, and
northward,
esteme^t-
it country,
ly^moun-
:es Ontario
the world,
itionof the
this place.
»fom, Lake
fosca, Ca-
yuga, Seneca, Carumdagua, snd Chataughque. Tlie prin-
cipal rivers are the Hudson, the Mohawk, the Oneida^
and the Genesee. The Hudson rises in the mountains,
above the 44th degree of north latitude, pursues a south
course about 250 miles, and forms a junction with the
East River at New York. This river is navigable for
sea vessels through the mountains to Albany and Troy ;
and for smaller vessels, a considerable way above Troy.
The tide flows 165 miles up this river; .The Mohawk
rises near Oneida Lake, and, running a south-east course
upwards of 100 miles, faUs into the Hudson 8 miles above
Albany. The navigation of this river b obstructed by
the Cohoes falls, near its outlet, and the litde &Us about 70
miles above that ; but goods and produce are carried by land
between Albany and Shenectady, 15 miles; and there be-
ing- a canal round the little falls, the navigation is complete
to the portage near its source, where it communicates by
ano^r canal with Wood Creek, and from thence with'
Lake Ontario. Oneida River has its source (in .Oneida
Lake, from whence it runs about 40 miles to Lake Onta*
no. It is navigable by boats to the falls, where there is
a portage, fit)m whence it is again navigable to the lake,
and thence, through Wood Creek and the portage, to
the Mohawk River. This river is of great importance,, as
it forms part of the chain of communication betweeift the
Hudson and the lakes ; and, through the medium of Se-
neca River, it may, in process of time, form also an im-
portant communication between Lake Ontario and the
smaiUer but very important lakes in the interior of the
country » Genesee River rises in the state of Penngylvania,
and^ running a northern, course tlirough the Genesee
country nearly lOOxnBes, falls into Lake Ontario. The
134
STEW YORK.
navigation of this river is obstructed by fallsi but U
abounds with mill-seats, and has rich, fertile banks. The
great JRwer St, Laxvrence bounds the state on the north,
to the easf of Lake Ontario, and receives several important
streams in that district: and on the west is the Niagara
River, the communication between Lake Erie and Lake
Ontario, on which are the Falls of Niagara, one of 'the
greatest wonders in the world. This river is navigable
to witliin 9 milefr of the falls; and again, from 2 miles
above the falls to Lake Erie. The pcnrtage round the
falls is 10 miles, and, were a canal cut, it would complete
tlie navigation between the lakes, and open an inland navi-
gation of gf eater extent than is to be found m the world.
The head waters of the Allegany, Susc^hannab, and De^
laware Rivers are in the southern part of this state. ^
The state abounds with iron ore and lead; copper and
zinc have been found in various places. Silver has been
found, but in no great quantity. Marble abounds, and is
of an excellent quality. Freestone and slate are in plenty,
Plaster of Paris i^ found in great variety , and is used witfi
good effect as raahure. Isinglass and su^bur are common
ia miany places ; and coal has also been found, but in no
great quantity. — The salt»springs at Onondago are very
strongs and produce an immense quantity of that useful
article. There are many stilphur<^^rings, and several au;
springs, which last are probably the gas arising from the
cconbustion of pit. coal. There is a medicin^ spring at
Lebanon, which ai&rds a pleasant bath, air tiie tempemtttFe
of 72^, and is mu4th frequented; but the most remarkable
sprktgs in this stat6^' or, indeed^ in the United StateSf are
those of Balaton and Saratoga. These waters aie highly
medicinal, aodare of great efEcapy in (fyspepsia and other
m-
NEW YORK.
135
complaints; and are much frequented in the summer
season. / ■^- .■■ •■ - ,
The soil, in such an extent of country^ must be va>
rious. The southern and eastern {uut is a dry gravel,
mixed with loam,' and is not very rich; the mountainouii
part is pretty well adapted for grazing, and there are ripli
valleys on the livers. The whole of the northern and
western part is rich and fertile, except a- small portion
bordering on the rState of Pennsylvania, which, however,
is interspersed with fertile lands. / ; ^
The^imate is< also various. In that part which lies to
the south of th^ higd^ands, it is remai^kably changeable;
it experiences aH>^ regions of heat and, cold, and some-
times a ohang^^cf 30 degrees in the course of 24 hours.
Among the mountains, and along Lake Champlain, to-
wards Canada^ ^winters are long and severe, and the
summers are sometimes veiy sultry and hot. In tile wes-
tern distiict, the climate is niore temperate, and the win-
ters are subject to a good deal of rain; but the whole
country is healthy, the neighbourhood of ponds- and un-
drained morasses excepted* The winter commences
about Cliristmas^ and ends with February; but March
and April are sometimes oold months.
' Captain Hudson^ & Dutch navigator, discovered Hud-
son's I^vcr, m the year 1609, and about the year 1615,
the Dutch took formal possession of the country, and
formed a settlement, at the mouth of Hudson's River,
c^led New Amsterdam, and another 160 miles up the
river, called Fort-Orange. In 1664, Charles II made a
grant of the country to his brother, the duke of Yorie, amd an
army of 3000 men )\vas sent -to take possession of it, which
they easily accomplished, and <:hanged the name of New
1S6
XEW YOBK.
Amsterdamrto Ntw Yorky and Fort Orange XoAUumy, In
1774, Ne\y York took an active part in tlie revolutionary
war, and sent four .delegates to the gent^ral cotigcess. The
state constitution yvs^ framed in 1777, and revised as it
now stands in J80il» The state sends two senators and
^7 representativiea tp congress.
% The state is divided into 43* counties, and about 300
townships. The population in 1800 was 536,203 inclu-
ding 20,613 slaye;» ;, being about 11. to>^ square mile.
^^This state has. progressed rapidly in ipopulation, wealth,
and improven^ents* There are four: incorporated cities,
o£ which New York, already noticedij k the chief. The
otfiers are Mbant/jf Mudsan, and Skemttdf^r
Alb AN Y is the seat of government^ iuui contained, by
the c^n^us of 1^00, about 7000 inhalMitants ; but they
have singe much increased. It is a place ot considerable
trade, and fast rising into importancciw. jififti , «i'ii«ftifu
Hudson is. situated at the head of ship navigation,- and,
though only laid out in 1784^ such has been the rapidity
of its growth, that it contained, by the census of 1800,
nearly 3000 inhabitants. They have here a very consider,
able trade,; aiid elegant packets to and from New York*
.Skenectady is a handsome, well-built city, on the Mo«
hawk river, i|l6 niiles from ^Ibany, and, by Jie census of
1800, contained 5289 inhaj^itants. It is a place of consi-
derable trade, and has a bank, a college, and three places
for public worsMp.
The other most important towns and villages are New*
burgf PjQughkeepsiey Troy, Lamingburg, said Waterfifd^
on theJiudson ; Uticay Herkimer y and^Qmey on the Mo*
hawk ; and SkeneatelesSy Ge^evoy Camndaiguay and -Buf-
fab to the westward^j^ llie houses are generally substan-
HBW YOBK.
137
tially built, and are a good deal siimlar to those in the
New England states. The roads^ bridges, and canals
are ftumerous, and of great importance.
The agriculture of the state is far advanced. The sta«
pie cOtiwAodity is flour, of which a vast quantity is made
annually for exportation ; and the state raises all the other
kinds of produce^ mentioned in the accbunt of the New
^gland' states.
The manb&ctures of the state are considerable, and in-
creasing ; particularly the articles of glass, ashes, iron- ware
of various descriptions, leather of all kinds, hats, carriages,
paper and printing, pottery ware, umbrellas, mathematical
and musical instruments. The commerce of the state is
exceedingly extended, and has been alluded to in the ac-
couit of New York ; besides which, there is a great com-
merce on the lakes and the St. Lawrence, with Canada.
The society in this state is very mixed. The city and
southern part of the state, and along the Hudson and Mo-
hawk rivers, are mostly of Dutch, Scottish, and Irish ex-
traction. To the west, the majority are New Englanders ;
but the whole harmonise and unite in this free country,
and will sooii form one mass of republicans. Educati6n
was, for a time, considerably neglected ; but it is now well
attended to, con^derable funds being appropriated to the
support of it. There are several colleges in the state, and
many academies : a taste for knowledge is increasing, and
\vith it will increase the good sense of the community,
a(nd every useful art.
The government of the state is vested in a governor,
lieutenant-governor, senate, and house of representeitives.
The governor and lieutenant-governor are elected for three
vears; the senators for four; and the assemblymen are
VOL. K S
**
138
VBW TOBK.
chosen annually* The necessary qualifications for the elec-
tors, are six months residence in the state previous to the
election ; the possession of a freehold of >C. 20 value, or to
have rented a tenement of the value of 40 shillings yearly ;
and to have been rated on the polls, and actually paid
taxes to the state.
The funds of this state are reported to be in a most
flourishing situation ; and such is the increase in wealth
and population, that it is considered one of the most im-
portant states in the union.
^^1'
#
i>-'
w^ ■''■■»'• w .7"''/'^»', jS".™^ ■
NIW IBIBBV.
139
.<N»^>.::
GHAFTBR XXI.
Jersey, — Brunswick^ — Princeton, — Treht&n,
Wednesday, September 24. Having finished my
business in New York, I took leave of my friends, and cross*
ed Hudson's river, at 8 o'clock in the morning. The
day was dull and cloudy, so that I could see but litde ;
but being quite in the humour for making inquiries re-
garding thb extennve country, I took my place on the
fore-seat beside the driver. It surprised me to observe
kow well informed this class of people are in America. In
my journey through the New England states, I was high-
ly gratified by the prompt and accurate answers which they
TiMde to my questions ; and I resolved to follow the same
plan of obtaining information throu^iout my tour.
' We took our departure at 9 o'clock, from a little town
edkd Jersey, which is the landing-place from New York,
kad tmvelled a few miles through a country rather stony
i&id sandy, to Bergen, a small viUage having a church, and
said to be inhabited mostly by Dutch people. A little
fimher OH, we reached Hackensack river, which we passed
by a toll-bridge, and immediately entered into a very ex-
tt^siv6 SWiMipy through wluch the road is cut at a consi-
derable expence. This swamp is said to be 50 miles long,
and about four broad, and abounds with grass of a very
stinong kbfld, but it must be difficult to gather it. We saw,
however^ that it had been all tut during the summer. We
»
i
^i
140
rukymia m
were much molested with muaquetoes of a very large size,
during our passage through it ; soon after which we pass-
ed the Passaic river, and arrived at Newark, nine miles
from New York. .4. »^
fiHackemack river ,i7bcs iof Ifew York state, and nmning
a south-east course falls into Newark bay, a little below
where we crossed it.^ It ^ navigable 15 miles up the
country. Passaic river rises in the interior of the country,
an^ mniung upwards of 50 miles, by a very winding course,
£iUs 1 into Newark bay. It is navigable about 10 miles ;
an^' about 14 miles from it^ outlet, th^ are falls on it of
70 f0et fierpendicular, which form one of the greatest curi-
osities in* tlit stat^, and constitute a line situation for mill,
seats* at which a cQttpn manufactoiy has been recently es-
tablished. Mj» It '»!)•[-
rr Newark U a beautiful village, regularly laid out in broad
streets* on a fine plain, and contains nearly 2000 inhabi-
tants/ The public buildings are two places for public
ytfxMpi a court-house, and academy. Considerable manu-
factures isre carried on here, particularly of leather. The
inhabitants have likewise a pretty extensive inhnd trade ;
and have a bank to facilitate their commercial opcirattions.
The country is well cultivated in the neighbourhood, and
Newark b remarkable for the goodness of the cyder, of
which a large quantity Is made here annually.
# ;Si3^ mile^ beyond Newark is Elizabethtown, contaimng
two churches and an acadismy* It is a pretty .little place,
and the land itf its neighbourhood is fertile,, (and well culti-
vated* '= ■-''^' ■'■•'■ V ■
Ton miles from thence, through a pretty fertile country,
W^ re$i$hed PToodbridgej a small village, where wje stopped
fof dinner, at 1 o'clock. .The day was rainy and disa-
J*
VBW JlBtBT.
141
gieetble, so that there was no great pleasure in viewing
the oountiy ; and as to amusement in tlie stage, I could
get none, for there was a surly.looking man from Charles-
ton, who engrossed all the conversation, and lus whole
talk was about cotton, and he spoke as if nobody
knew any thing of the matter, but himself.
At half-past three o'clock, we reached Brunswick, 36
miles from New York, where we crossed the Rariton
River, by a wooden bridge. This i« one of the most
considerdble rivers in New Jersey. It rises about 30
miles above this, and, running a south-east course, falls
into Bariton Bay at Amboy. It is navigable to this place,
by tvhich means a great trade is carried on with New York.
Buif KswicK is an incorporated city, containing about
3000 inhabitants. The greater part of it is low, and it is
not very handsome, but seems to be improving. It was
originally settled moGttly by Dutch people, and there are
thv^ Dutch churches. The other public buildings,
worthy of notice, are the Court-House and Academy ;
which Isyit is said to be a very thriving seminary. The lands
in the neighbourhood appear rough and rocky ; but we
were informed that they raised pretty good crops, particu-
l|iriy of grass, which had, throughout the whole of this
district^ flourished very much of late, in consequence of
the application of plaster of Paris.
The {^emoon continued wet, and the road was veiy
bad, through a level country, about 14 miles, when we
passed a small place called Kingston: fix^ whence the
road is much improved, and proceeds tlirough a fine
country, and by an easy ascent, about three miles, to
Frincetonj which we reached a litde after dark. We
should have stopped here for the night ; but there \vqs a
^
.*.
XA2
Commeneifment bidl at the stage-house, and wri were
ihformed that we' must move on to Titnton, aAidt the
night ivas ivet and dark, and we were sufficiently tired.
I waa mdktified at this decisiont, for I wished very much
tos^the:baiL -vn}-^''^ ' ■ '■'''■■' rv.^/i*.'.,
During the short time we stopped, I went into thebaH-
rboih, where thi^ dance was going on, and almost the
first object, that saluted my eyes, was Mi^ Gibbons, a
dashing b^lte ih>m iSavannah. I tlioiight myself at homci
Btlt'I tah't say I was so much pleased with the appear^
ance of the *' fair ones," as i was in Yankee-land. There
was a great number of "elegant forms," and "hand*
some iaces,^' but the ' dress was, generally spcsdking,
showy, ' ^t neatM^ ihdicatiott of a bad taste ; and the
most of them had large, tiirefe inch diameter sort of lings
in their ears^ caUcd by some ctf< the students; ncit inaptly,
••Cupid^s Chariot wheelsv*'^ Nor did the dancings ^ease
me. The music was a French cotilli^V to Whldh "^y
f* $prawM sind4]»nm^&/h^'^^^^^l^ le tdutmisembh wafii the
vkjty contrast to t^se soul-iiispiring reels and stiial^^>eys,
which animate our Scots girls, and set them in moiioU)
"their feet as pat to the music ws its echo." J^tered
iik^'i^ conversation with some of the students and young
ladies who were bye-standers, who answered my eii^
quiries with much affability; and I left the room with
liegret, when I was called to take my passage in tfee stage.
'> Of the town of Princeton I could, of course, see tio;.
thing, at that late hour, but I learned, that it is handsomely
situated, on elevated ground, fkan whence there is a veiy
fine view, through a well cultivated adjoining eountty.
The number of dwelHne-houses is about 100, fihd the
college is reputed one of the best seminai^ies in the United
States.
nxm JEBSEY.
143
Having got a number of ^ students as passengers,
the stage was crowded ; and, on our way to Trenton, it
broke down, by one of the braces giving way. It is cus-
tomary, in Britain, to provide agsdnst an accident of this
kind, by having an iron chain, to supply the place of the
brace; and the contrivance being a very simple one, I
thought it would have been adopted here; but to my
surprise there was no chain, ai>d the defect was supplied
by breaking down an honest man'^ fence, fou), jt^rusting a
rail under the carriage, while the passengers stopd sibnost
up to the ancles in the mud^ holding it up. Being fix^d
in this way, we jolted on to Trenton, M^hich \ve reached
near 12 o'clock at night. ^^
Trenton is the capital of New Jersey, and .i9 situated
on the Delaware river, 30 miles from Philadelphia, and
66 fromv New York. It is a handsome tittle towii, con-
taining about 200 houses. The pi^Uc buildings are, the
state-house, a court-house, and episcopal Umrch, a pres-
byterian church, a quaker meeting-house, and methodist
meeting-hous^.
O)'
■\
■',.1*1^ 4^-^al
*
144
N£W JfiRSI&Y^
) J:.*. • ^
■■;i%-v' 't^'^-i.^i!^-' ^*:'-.
CHAPTER XXn.
■^
^Jersey
Is situated betw<!en 39^ aiid 41^ 20' north latitude, and
1° 30' and S*" 5' east longitude. Its length is 145 miles,
and its breadtii 60. It contains 7920 square miles, being
5,068,800 acres.
The state extends along the sea-coast upwards of 100
miles, which, with the exception of the highlands of Never
Sink, is low and sandy, but it is more elevated, and more
diversified, towards the interior. The northern part swells
out into high lands, and, towards the extremity of the stale,
tliere are considerable mountains. The principal rivers
have been already noticed, aixl there are no other erf any
note, though small streams are numerous, and supply the
state abundantly with mill-seats.
The state abounds with minerals ; producing iron, lead,
copper, gypsum, coal, and slate ; and there are several use-
ful clays and ochres.
About one-fourth part of the state is sandy and barren ;
there are in the southern parts extensive pine barrens, and
cedar swamps. Large tracts of salt meadow run along
Delaware bay, and the rivers which fall into the Atlantic.
Along the rivers and small streams in the interior of the
state therc is much good land; and the hilly district
abounds with fertile valleys.
■ . \'t:M- '■■'^'•i
ilKW JERSfeY.'
14;^
The climate is strikingly different in the different sec-
tions of the state. In the northern part there is clear, set**
tied weather, and the winters are excessively cold, but the
whole is very healthy. In the southern part, particularly
towards the extremity, the climate approaches to that of
the southern states, and is subject to very sudden changed.
New Jersey was first settled by the Dutch, in 1618 ; but
Ming into the hands of the English, it was granted, along
with New York, by Charles II, to his brother tlie dukfe
of York. It was among the first states that acceded to
the union, and sent five delegates to congress Li 1774. It
bore a very active part in the contest for independence, and
was luii^ the theatre of war, in which it sufft^red great losses
and privations. It now sends two senators {aid six repre-
sentatives to the congress of the United States.
The state is divided into 13 counties and 100 townships,
and contains 211,149 inhabitants, including 12,422 slaves^
being upwards of 26 persona to the square mile.
The principal towns have been already mentioned, be-
sides which there are Burlington and Bordentown, two con-
siderable places on the Delaware, and Salem and Patterson^
in the interior; which last is a manufacturing town, at the
falls of Passaic, already noticed, and is rising fast into im*
portance. The country is pretty well improved by thrive
ing farms, and the roads and bridges are numerous. I
did not hear of any canals, but I learned there was one
projected across the country from Brunswick to Trenton,
which, if carried into effect will certainly be a great im-
provement, as it will complete the inland navigation be-
tween New York and Philadelphia.
New Jersey is settled with frugal, industrious farmers*.
The prodi xe of the state is, wheat, rye, barley, oats, Iif ■
VOL. I. T
146
KCW JEBBEY.
dian com, potatoes, and other vegetables, and a vast quan.
tity of fruit; and butter and cheese are made in great
quantities, for the supply of the New York and Philadek
phia markets.
The inhabitants of New Jersey, except in the towns,
make the greater part of their clothing, and there are seve-
>fal manufactories of cottons and woollens, on a large scale.
Of iron, the manufactures are very extensive, and the quan-
tity is considend>le of leather, glass, and paper. The state
iias hardly any foreign commerce, nearly the whole being
yt^,^anied on through the medium of New York and Phila-
I idelphia. The principal sea-port is j^mboy, but ike dniect
exports, anniudly, amount to only a £ew thousand dollars.
<^The state is supplied with foreign goods through the large
^^cities already mentioned.
The general dissemination o£ knowle^e through the
state has not been attended to according to its importance.
^There are numerous seminaries for the highei' branches of
literature, but the state seems defective in common schools.
, I keep the parish schools in Scotland constantly in my
t mind, and I regret when the system for the instruction of
of the mass of the people does not come up to that
standard.
The government of this state is vested in a governor,
^'legislative council, and general assembly. The council
consists of one member, and the assembly of three mem-
bers from each county, chosen annually by the people.
The gorvemor is chosen annually by the council and as-
sembly. The qualification for a voter is jf. 50. The
state is prospering, and increasing in population and
wealth. ot ^ ff
SAW:
,1 .vIOY
fiiiti^
NEW aaiisfiT.
m
• ?jK m
OHAPTEEXXra.
Trenton Uriage, — Bristolf^-Philadelphta.
Thursday, September 25th, w« set out from Tmi-
ton, at 6 o'clock in the morning, and crossed tlie river
Delaware by Trenton bridge. This bridge was finished
in February- last, and being one of the ttiost elegant in the
United States, and different in construction from any I
have seen before, it merits a particular description. It
consists of five arches of 194 feet span each, built of white
pine, and supported on strong stone piers; the whole l^gth
is 970 feet; the breadth 36. The arches are elevated over
head by substantial rafters, and the platform, or carriage«^
way, is suspended by these arches, and forms a plane the '
whole length of the bndge. Above the top of the arches
the roof is covered in, so as to secure the whole from the
weather ; and the carriage-way is divided into two sections*
each of winch is appropriated to travellers in one direction.
At die entrance, passengers are directed to take the road
on the right hand. Upon the whole, this is a very elegant
piece of architecture. It was commenced in 1804, and is
the plan of a mechanic of the name of Burr.
The Delaware is a noble river. Its i^ead waters are in
New York state, from whence it pursues a south-east
course, formmg the boundary between that state and
Pennsylvania, about 60 miles, and thence forms the boun-
dary between Pennsylvania and ^^lew Jersey, upwards of
Itt8
TBAVBL8 T»
» «k
loo more, to this place, where there are falls, but of no
great height. From hence it increases in breadth, during
a, course of 36 miles to Philadelphia, where it is a mile
broad. As it proceeds downwards it gradually increases,
and, 40 miles below ^Philadelphia, at NewcasUe, it is two
miles broad, thence it spreads out into a spacious bay, and
falls into the Atlantic ocean 70 miles below Newcastle, its
outlet being 25 miles wide. It is navigable for vessels of
any burden to Fhiladelphia ; for sloops and other small craft
to Trenton, where it is obstructed by the falls; but above
them it is navigable for boats upwards of 100 miles.
^. Immediately after passing this river we were in the state
of Pennsylvania; and among; the first houses that. attracted
my notice was Morrisville, the seat of general Moreau. It
is a fine house, with elegant grounds about it, a^ I, have
no doubt but the general finds it a happy retreat fro^i the tur-
bulent scenes of Europe. I ;Could not pass this place with-
out a great variety of reflections. General Moreau bore
an active part in the Fre»fch revolu^on. and {supported a
character in arms, rivalled Quly by that of Bonaparte him-
self. He fought for republican principles, and braved
every ^danger to establish them in his native landv His
reputation rose with his extraordinary merit, and he was m
the full tide of popularity in the republic, which he had
served to establish,, when, by a sudden transition of fortune,
that republic vanished from the earth: his great rival in
arms was elevated to a throne; and he was exiled to the
banks of the Delaware.. But happy, in my mind, is he
who is thus exiled. A republican finds here a repub-
lic, and the only republic on the face of the earth that
ever deserved the name : wliere all are under die protec-
tioii of equal laws ; of tews made by themselves; where
PEKNSTLVAMIA.
14ft
every man '* sits under his vine, and under his iig-tree, and
none to make him afiraid ;" and where, far removed from
the turbulence and din of maddened Europe, he can en-
joy " health, and peace, and sweet content."
From Trenton bridge we travelled 10 miles, to Bristol.
The road was good, and passes partly by the river side,
through a level country, but the soil is rather sandy. The
banks of the river are very beautiful, and adorned with
many elegant villas. Bristol is a handsome village, on the
banks of the river, and contains probably about 100 houses,
many of them elegant. A few miles beyond Bristol we
passed a considerable creek, and continuing our course
near the river side, through a very fine country, we passed
through IfHnkJbrd, five miles from Philadelphia. This is
an elegant village, containing about 100 houses, and is a
place of considerable resort for the inhabitants of Philadel-
phiaj Inthe summer sea^n. A little beyond this we pass-
ed a rising ground, called Prospect Hill, where we had the
first viei^r qf Philadelphia. The road here is broad, and
well mejtalled with broken stones, which renders travelling
pretty rough, but L is good upon the whole. The country'
is now rich and level, abounding in gardens and orchards;
aild exhibits every appearance of the approach to a great
city. On entering the city, I was quite deUghted with the
regularity of the streets, and beauty of the buildings. The
stage drove nearly a mile through the city, and I took up
my residence at the Man^on-House Hotel, in Third-
street.
'•,**i-^.VjS?
v:r^
191^
TRATBLS IV '
.
! i- '
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Philadelphia*
1 HIS city is situated between the Delaware <md Schuyl-
kill rivers, about four miles above their junction. It is
laid out on an elegant plan, with streets crossing one ano.
ther at right angles, and extends between the two rivers^
being upwiirds of two miles in length, from east to westj
and a little more thah one mile in breadth. There are
large suburbs to the north, and south, on Ae Delaware
river, called the Northern Liberties, Kensington, aiidSouth-
wark; and these extend upwards of a mile \6 the norths
and half a mile south of the' city, making the extreme
length on the Delaware river nearly three- miles. But the
city is closely built to the west#ard only about ai mile;
the buiklings on the remainira^ J%t, towards the- Schuyl-
kill, being very thinly scatt^rfedi It is however rapidly
filling up in that directioh. ' High 0*^ Market-street is
about 100 feet broad, and running the whole length of
the city, is terminated by die Schuylkill bridge to the
west. A street of equal breadth, called Broad^street, cross-
es it in the middle, where there is a lai^ arda, called
Centre-Square, on which th^ water- works are built. The
streets running parallel to High-Street are named after va-
rious trees said to have been found on the ground on
which they are laid out. To the north, are Mulberry^
Sassafiasy sind Fine s to the south, Chesnut, fTalnut, Lo'
FBNNBVLVANIA.
l^
id Schuyl-
on. It is
p one ano-
wo rivers,
5t to west,
There are
Delawate
aiidSouth-
the north,
e extreme
, But the
it « mile;
le Schuyl-
'cr fapidly
it-street is
kngth of
[ge to the
•, cross-
called
iilt. The
after vA-
•ound on
hlberry,
inut, Lor
ctat. Spruce^ Piney and Cedar, The cross streets are
numbered according to situation from the rivers, thus,
Front, Second, Third, and so on, to Thirteenth, on the
Delaware .side; and finom Front to Eighth, on the Schuyl-
kill side. Mulbeny-street is 60 feet wide, and all the
other streets are 50. It was the intention of the benevo-
lent projector of the city that Front-street, on the Dela-
ware, should have been the eastern boundary, and that the
space between that and the river should have lieen con-
verted into public ground, useful and ornamental to the
city; but this elegant plan has given way to the avidity for
commercial gain, and this spot is now thickly built up with
wharves, warehouses, and dwelling-houses; which form a
street on the low ground along the margin of the river,
called V^ ater-street. In the original plan there were a
great number of public squares, but several of them have
also been infringed upon, though there are still many left,
which are very ornamental to the city. r*
This city contained, by the census of 1800, 81,000 in-
habitants, and, as there has been a great increase since,
they are now estimated at upwards of 90,000^ ; and the
buildings at upwards of 14,000. -4
The city is composed almost wholly of brick houses,'
covered with slate, or shingles; and they are generally or-
namented with marble steps, with soles and lintels for the
dcx)rs and windows; which form an elegant contrast with
the brick, and add much to the beauty of the buildings.
Some of the public buildings are wholly composed of
marble, and others are much ornamented with it, which
gives the city an elegant and even magnificent appear*
ance.
By the census of l&tO, the city and county casAwx. 1 1 1,310.
.152
THAVELS nf
The public buildings are very numerous. The ban;
mention of a few of them will be sufbcient to convey an
idea of the importance of this city. The State-House,
with the Court-Houses and Philosophical Hall adjoining,
the Dispensary, Aims-House, Hospital, Jail, Carpenters'
Hall, College, Academy, Library, two theatres, four banks,
five quaker meeting-houses, six presbyterian churches,
three episcopal churches, four Roman catholic churches,
threte methodist churches, and one each for German Cal-
viniste, .German Lutherans, Swedish Lutherans, Mora-
vians, baptists, Jews, and universalists*. •< v :
The State -House i« remarkable as being the place
.from whence the independence of the United States was
first proclaimed ; and the legislature of the United States
held their meetings in the adjoining buildings, while Phila-
delphia was the seat of the general government. When
the legislature of Pennsylvania continued at Philadelphia,
they held their meetings in the State-House ; but the seat
of government has been removed to Lancaster, and that
building now contains Peale's Museum.
Th^e are three market-houses in the city, the principal
of which is in High-street. It is a very handsome build-
ing, about a quarter of a mile in length, and is well supplied
with provisions. The price of provisions is scmiewhat
cheaper than in New York. Beef, mutton, and veal may
be quoted at from 6 to 8 cents per pound, and, generally
speaking, all other articles of domestic production may be
quoted as one-fifth cheaper than in the latter city.
The manufactures of this city are rising into great im-
portance. The principal are leather of every description,
f A iiflitamn church is now (1812) building.
PMNSTLVAMIA.
159
tt great variety of woodtfuid iron work, ships, ropes, fer*
mented and distilled liquors, earthenware, tin plate, hatt,
stockings, and a vast variety of cloths of various descrip-
tions. The printing business is better established hcai^
than in any other place on the continent, and gives eTnploy*
ment to a great number of paper-mills, and all classes con-
nected with the book-trade: printers, type-founders, en-
gravers, bookbinders, and booksellers and stationers.
The whole export trade of the state is carried on through
this city. The exports are grain, flour, and pipvkuons,
flaxseed, timber, various iron utensils, cordage, bark, skins,
hosiery, gunpowder, ashes, candle?, eyder, &c. The im*
ports consist of British manufactures to a great amount,
West India produce, India goods, China produce, &€.
The exports of the state, in 1805, amounted to 13,762,252
doUfirs, of which 4,365,240 dollars was the produce of the
Stite i aiid the imports may be reckoned at considerably
more, as Philadelphia supplies the inhabitants of an jimt
mense back countiy with manufactured goods, who find
an outlet for their, produce by anbther channel, and remi^
in domestic produce or specie, neither of which is exhi-
bited in the custom-house returns.
This city is under great obligations to the quakers, who
have given a tone to the manners of the pet^le different
ftom what is to be found in mpst other places of equal
e^^teut. They are industrious and sober, and, though
sufficiently commercial, they do not conduct their business
ia the sanie dashing style whicH is done by some commer*
dal cities;^ but confine themselves within bounds, and
secure ^hajt they gain. Education is on an excellent
footing ; besides the larger seminaries already noticed,
there are numerpus academies and schools, tiirpughout the
VOL. I.
U
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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23 WIST MAM STtHT
WnSTn,N.V. 14SM
(71«)S7a^S03
^ ^<^
IH
^«iii?viSL« ir*
alty. The mtts and sciences hK|r«< been long cultivated.
A PhikMophical Society was established in the year 1769,
ai9fd tiiey have publlihed several volumes of their transac-
tions. The Libray Company was established as eariy as
the year 1731. — ^The other societies of greatest importance
sire, the College of Physicians, instituted for the purpose
of pronio^g medical, anatomical^ and chemical .know-
ledge-; the P^nnsylvanian Society for promoting the Abo-
litiion of Slavery, and the relief of iiree Negroes unlawfully
hdd in boridage; the Pennsfylvania Academy of i^ine
Arts ; the Agricultural Society ; Premium Socict)^; a
Sbciety' fop i^vlating the Miseries of Public Prisons;
Humane Society ; Marine Benevolent Society ; St, An.
drew*s Society; Scotd Thistle Society; St. Patricks
Society r Hibernian Society; St. George's Society;
Wdaii Sodety; French Benevolent Society; Germaii
Society. The Grand Lodge of Pemisylvania is established
H^,' «nd thett are 15 or 16 lodges of free-masons.
■ Th^^^ police of the city is said to be better regulated
tfutii that of any other on the continent. It appears to be
much better than New York. There are public scaven-
gers, who clean the streets at stated times, and the side*
pavements are vgentoally washed every morning. These
aie broad, ttnd genetalty well piived with brick, and, the
streets being litied widi rows of trees, a walk through the
city in a summer morning is delightful. The ci^ is ele-
vated 50 or 60 feet above the river, in consequence of
which. ^ere is an ample descent for the water; and the
streettf are well suppUed with common sewers^ whitji
serve to dory' off all die filth ; and they ale kept
sweet by the supply oi fresh water from the waters woiks,
vrhich is constantly pouring into them ftpta evay part of
Q
.f .ao'
PBNN8TLVANIA. XSS
tfr city. This supply of water 9IS0 keeps the tlreets pme
by running along the gutters, so that almost every street
has a little stream) on each side of? it; and this circum-
stance, though apparently trivial, is probably of more im-
portance than is gepierally inyigined* ^
They have here, as well as in New York, adopted the
plan, of sitiking necessaries ; but I was informed that ihose
in Phikdelphiamust be regularly cleaned,, and! did not
observe the smell, to be near so offensive as at New York :
bol^ cities, however, in my opinion, would admit of great
ifPipfovement in, this unportant branch of police^.
,j|^he inhabitants general^ have fresh complexions, the
iniiication^ ^ temperance and health. Their dress and
ipfUi^ers axe pietty much assitnilated to thpse of Ne^i^
jr^Qik^althoughi there is a considerable sprinkling of iim
quaker habits diffused through the city, which may at
fimfei^iew^^tQ.^ stranger, appear more forbidding and ai^
stere; but^ on the other hand, the attention they do pay^
bemg the lesult of consideration, may probably be more
sincere^ and their friendship n{ a. kind that will w^ar wseU.
• Siirtk n^c^saries arc, I believe, common througtibut the^tJ^f-
ted Stttes, and have, at fir«t yifew, the appearance of contribtitki(^|o
eleAnfinesft, f» diey are depositoiies umler ground Hfor every Mnd^f
fiith. But itia to be observed, that the filtb collected iii tbemjis
con|itai|itly^gep<^r^ting a lokq^t oiTeD^ive an4 ^n^icious ga8,.^t4j:|i
mingles with the atmosphere ; is breathed every day by the inhabi-
tants of large cities, and must contribute to render them unhealthy.
Would h not be wise toiprevent this ? There Is ho yhy of dbiiig it,
FUppivhend, iMit by constructihg tiecessariet on a ^anthat they nitty
Ve Qieanad ence a week or oftener, i^d have this, and all other fiith)
<^p^ited ja dui>g-hUla in the country, fj^om whence itmay be^kcn
to^a^U^«t^<^ ground. In so^le cities that haice cpme und^r my
observa^on, the price obtained for the manure, is more than equtil
to the expcnce of keeping them clean. * '
156
TAAVELB 1N^
■r/. ' '•!
* t ' , t
u.-«
».-l»S4<
^'> ^jmisftamiiiitu *.'k^-v-
iDHAPTER XXHI.
Philadelphia^ — Heater-works, — State Prisma— Library ^
* ' — Museuniy — Falls of Sc)
^Fh£ two first days of my stajr in Pluliidelphia i^
wet and stormy, so that I could see but little. Itiblc
a ride, in company with a friend,' to the floating briidge
<m the Schuylkill river, near its junction with the 'D^.
ware. The river is here about 300 yards broad, and thie
country between it and Philadelphia ii Itvel, ricH ^
weH cultivated.
f On the 27th, I went to s^ the water^Woiks. The
building which contains the reservoir is ih'tfae Centre-
Square, beings the most elevated ground in the city. It
occupies a square of 60 feet^ and from the iniddle there is
a circular tower, 40 feet in diameter, and 60 feet high,
which contains the reservoir ; and this tower b terminated
by a. dome, which gives it a very handsome appearance.
vHie water is conveyed to this building from the Schuyl-
kill^ a distance of neariy a mile, through a cittular brick
tunnd^, of six feet diameter, having d fall of six inches
toward the Schuylkill. The water is received from the
Schuylkill into a substantial basin and canal, and fitim tfaeiice
is raised by a steam-engine to the level of tiie aqueduc^
which conveys it to the Centre-Square; It is ^lere received
into another basin, and thence, by another steam^enjg^, is
FrikNtft&TAVIA.
157
le. I tibk
^g brmge
id, andtJte
devoted to the circular towo^ from vdwiice it nsnes dirough
wooden pipes, in all directions, to supply the city«
The whole expence of the works yvBs about 150,000
ddlars (jC. 33,750 sterling). The work was undertaken
by the corporation^ who raited thefiftiids pardy by a tax,
and partly by Iban, allowing the subscribers to the loon
six per cent, interest for their money, and the use of the
water fiee for three yiears, for every 100 dollars sub-
scribedp
' The city is supplied with water by contract, and the
contmctor is obl^ed to supply three millions of gallons
per day if required. The annual expence is six diousand
dollars for tme nuUion of gallons per day, and for any ad*
ditional quantity^ tip to two millions, the expence is at the
rate of Mf that sum. The enghie is 40 horse power, and
can' raise, if necessaT}', four millions and a hidf of gafionft
p^ day f to that the supply must be abundant for every
purpo^. ir
The water is soft and good, but it is not filteied, «tid
is, of course, somedmles muddy, diough never to mich
80 as to render it unfit for use ; and it is allivays whole-
some* It is of great importance tb these wdrl^s, that they
are the property txf the public, and not subject to indivi-
dual speculation; in consequence of which the supply is
liberid, land there are fountains in everjr* street to Which
Ae whole public have access. The vniter can be used
for watering the streets^ or extinguishitig firte, as often as
may be necessary; while eveiy householder, by pa3ring a
(KBSonable compensation, can have a hydrant in any part
tif lus|iremises that *he {leases, even to the attic story^ In
sluMt, this water is a great luxury, and is, in my (pinion,
i;-/^y ..^^
'■m^ - A- *v>'
^
158
TftAviL« tirf
df inoriculable advantiige to the health, as it certainly it to
the convenience and comfort of the communhv.
' The BQj^ly of cities with water is a subject of great
importance, and it is to be hoped that the inhtibitants of
other places in the United States' wiH^pix^t l^ the lauda-
bte example set them by the citizens of Philaidelphia^ and
the happy effects which have resulted from it. The power
of the steam-engine, properly applied, can send ln^ateT to
any city, and cities are generally sufficiently opi^enl to
bear the cxpence. All that is wantirtg is a proper |dat),
put in motion by some of the leading^ In6n. Oft this
brandi I have to notice, that a grear savings can be made
from the application of the^/^mnj^pUm^, bywhiibh meaiis
^ wat^ can be conveyed toanyieasohable height and
distance, by one engine. ^The conductor ihust; in* that
iaae; be constructed of metallic tubes, whiolv'Can be made
of any diameter, aiicoiding to the supply of ^tte wanted}
aiid they nrii^ be fumishe#**With valves to prevent the^e*
Kelion of the water. - ^ ^-
'^^^I rinUalso^notice, In this place, tet filtration of thC'^wa-
ter is a ^reat improvement, and it can be easHy done» to
an^ exteht whatever^ by the application of a plan^ ^the^n*
lieniidli^of a veiy ingenious mechanic in Scotland, which I
shall here communiorte.
I shall describe it from the model which I saw; the ap-
plication to imy scale is easy. The model consisted of a
easkv in which was inserted a fidse' bottom-about three
inches above thd real^ tiottom^ The fidse bottom war per-
forated with small bdes, and in the middle' was a^tube,
dksvated a litde above the top of the cask, and^^wlttch
formed aixx)mmunicatiou through the/*&lse bottom to the
space below. The cask was filled idth gravel of a pro-
PmNtTLYANIA.
159
per* kind fcr ;fi!tniftioii. The water was conveyed through
the tube into, the space between the two bottoms, where it
deposited the greater part of its sediment, and rising up-
wanjia through the gravel, on the principle of a spring,
nin over at the t<^ of the cask, pure and transparent. The
efot was as complete as could be imagined. The water
that he used waa very muddy, and was, by this simple
contrivance,, rendered perfectly pure; the contrast being
so great, that when it was exhibited in the di&rent states
in clear wine*ghisses, the one, to use the inventor's ex-
pression, was. like punch, the otheif, like pure spirits. ^
He informed: me that the gravel answered better at the
time I viewed it, than it did at first, probably in conse-
quence of the mud aheady deposited, attracting that in the
water. He had not used it long enough to ascertain the
period at which it would get too much choaked up by the
mud; but he<Jiad a contrivance to obviate the eflect of it,
equally .simple and efficacious with all the rest It-con*
usted^in opening a stop-cock below, and letting the water
mter ctoifiMiniii, by which means it would wash idl the
sediment along with it.
vlf have seen different filters, some of them upwards,
some i downwards, and some lateral; but I never saw
any so simple, and so complete as this.
>The best mode of applying the plan upon a large scale
would^ I diink, be this. To have a leservoir of from IQ
to 20 feet deepj and of any dimensions that might be
wanted for the purpose intended. Have it lined and bed-
ded «rith he^^ stone, and divided mto three appaitments.
Let one of these reeeive the water where it will deposit its
sediment From tfience let it run into the second contain*
^- 'i;
ji
"'■;''
160
fiMAVWM lib i
kig. Ike fiber I md from Ihenoe be ooavcTtd into fheduni^
olear fomae.
^ It is to be observed, that the first of thesia apartmcnti
mutt be elevated a little above the second, and the second
above the third ; and< the elevation taay be* great or aniall,
according to the late at which the watar' is required to
circulate from the one to the other.
From the Water^ Works ^ I went, accompanied by a
firiend, to see the State-Prison. I was introduced to one
of the inspectors, who was also one of the £9»unders of the
institution. He accompanied us, and expli^ned the whole
system very much to my sati^fiiction. .
. This benevolent institution, owes its origin to the en*
lig^itened citizens of Philadeiplua. Ita object is to receive
the vicious, and, if possible^ to reclaim them to yirtiie;
aiid is an admirable contrast to the aangumaiyi punishments
of old govenunentsy.who, for even pecuniary vOffisnces,
send them ofi* to the other world to be reclaimed jthere.
This institution does not admit offenders till after cdnvic-
tion, when they are received fit>m the d|ffefent ^pmWigS the
state. It is hence called the State-Prison. Whcnii.Cri*
minal b received^ his name ia put upon record, or, lo use
a commercial idea, he becomes a partner in the concern,
and an account is acocndingjy raised for him in the book^.
Incpiiry is then made what ho can do ; if he can wprk at
any, trade, he is taken to the apanment where liiat brancb
is caitied on^ and baa his task assigned him. If. he can
work at no trade, he jk sent to saw marble. Asa stimulus
to industryi the eonvkts get credit in4he hooka for the
proceeds of their labour, and are debited with the eispence
Qfi their board and <d^ing, which^ however, is not very
expensive, as every thing is conducted upon an economi-
PEKN8YLTANIA.
161
cat plan, and when they are released, should their earnings
be more than the expence of maintenance, the balance is
paid to them.
Almost every trade is carried on in the prison; and the
institution is so organized, that every necessary of life is
attended to by the convicts themselves : baking, cooking,
scrubbing the rooms, and so on ; and every thing is kept
remarkably clean. The food is wholesome and nutritive,
confflsting of Indian meal, bread, and meat. The drink
is molasses and water ; and no spiritous liquors are ad-
mitted within the walls of the prison.^
There is a separate apartment for the reception of fe-
male convicts, where the various parts of female labour
are carried on, and it is otherwise under the same system
of management as that for the nudes. ' ^
I visited every apartment, and was highly pleased with
the order and economy of the whole establishment. In
the course of our visit, one of the convicts came lip to
our conductor, and solicited very strongly for his recom-
mendation in his fiivour. Upon making inquiry' what he
meant by this, I was informed, that, as the object is purely
to protect society from the inroada of the vicioi/ tind to
reclaim the vicious to civilized life, the govemoi has the
power of nutigating the punishment, and of pardoning the
offenders, upon receiving satisfactory evidence that the ap-
plicant is fit for civil society; and the best evidence being
the opimon of the inspectors of the prison, the criminals
are, 6f course, anxious to procure it in their iavour^
This is a very happy stimulus to good behaviour. Our
conductor observed, that it was a very sacred trust, and
to be used M'ith great caution. He did not think this
chiip was yet ripe for a release ; he must wait ;a little.
VOL. T.
«
^^^
jT*
162
TBAVEL8 IN
, The whole institutioii is under the direction of compe*
tent managers ; and, to insure proper discipline, there are
a gradation of punishments witliin the prison, conaaiting
chiefly of solitary confinement in cells.
I notice this subject particularly, because it is, so fiir
as I know, of pure American origin, and is happily adapt-
ed to the genius of the government of the country, mild,
just, and merciful. Some of the other states, aheady no-
ticed, have imitated the example of Pennsylvania ; and I
was informed, that the plan was likely to be generally
adopted throughout ihe Union.
We next visitedme Library, the account of which I
shall transcribe from the Continuation of the Life of Dr.
{"ranklin.
" The promotion of literature had been little attended
to in Pennsylvania. Most of the inhabitants were too
much immersed in bu»ness to think of scientific pursuits;
and those few, whose inclinations led them to study, found
it ^fficult to gratify them, fix>m the want of sufficiently
large libraries. . In such circumstances, the establishment
of a public library was an important event. This was first
set on foot by Franklin, about the year 1731. Fifty per-
sons subscribed forty shillings each, and agreed to pay
ten shillings annually. The number increased, and, in
1742, the company was incorporated by the name cf
< The Library Company of Philadelphia.' Several other
companies were formed in this city, in imitation of it;
and these were all, at length, united with the Library
Company of Philadelphia, which thi^s received a conside*
rable accession of books and property. It now ccmtains
about 8000 volumes on all subjects, a philosophical ^pa-
ratus; and a. good beginning towards a coUectioa <^ natu-
PBNNflYLVANIA.
163
ral and artificial curiosities, besides landed property of
considerable value. The company have lately buih an
elegant house in Fifth-street, in the front of which will be
a marble statue of their founder, Benjamin Franklin.
" This institution was greatly encouraged by the friends
of literature in America and in Great Britain. The Penn
family distinguished themselves by their donations.— >
Among the earliest friends of this institution must be
mentioned the late Peter CoUinson, the friend and cor-
respondent of Dr. Franklin. He not only made conside-
rable presents himself, and obtained many others from his
friends, but voluntarily undertook to manage the business
of the company in London, recommending books, pur-
chasing and shipping them. His extensive knowledge,
and zeal for the promotion of science, enabled him to exe-
cute this important trust with the greatest advantage;
and he continued to perform these services for more than
30' years, and uniformly refused to accept of any compel^
sation. During this time, he communicated to ^ direc-
tors every information relative to improvements dnd disco-
veries in the arts, agriculture, and philosophy.
** The beneficial influence of this institution was soon
evident. The cheapness of the terms rendered it acqessi-
ble to every one. Its advantages were not confined to the
opulent. The citizens in the middle and lower walks of life
were equally partakers of them. Hence, a degree of infor-
mation was extended among all classes of the people,
ivhich b very unusual in other places. The example was
soon followed. Libraries were established in various pla-
ces, and they are now become very numerous in the
United States, particularly in Pennsylvania. It is to be
hoped that they will be still more wi('!eiy extended, and
164
TBAYBLt m
that information will be every where increased. Thin wiU
be the best security for maintaining our liberties. A na.
tion of well-informed men» who have been taught to know
and prize the rights which God has given them, cannot be
enslaved. It is in the regions of ignorance that tyranny
reigns. It flies before the light of science. Let the citi-
zens of America, then, encourage institutions calculated to
diffuse knowledge amongst the people ; and among these
PUBLIC LIBRARIES are not the least important."
. The library has been since removed to the building al-
luded to in the above extract. It b elegant and com-
modious, and has a statue of Franklin in front, the dona-
tion of the late Mr. Bingham. The library now consists
of more than 14,000 volumes, in all the various depart-
ments of literature. It is divided into shares of 40 dol-
lars each ; but the number is unlimited. The subscribers
are at present upwards of 500. Besides the purchase of
the share, each subscriber pays two dollars annually,, to
the support of the institution.
The library is open every day, except Sunday, from 2
o'clock to sunset, and the subscribers may either read in
the librar}% or be accommodated with books to read in
their houses. The rule relative to strangers and non-sub-
scribers is very liberal. They may have the use of the
books in the library, while it is open, free of expence, or,
on depositing the value, may borrow books and peruse
them at home, on paying a small sum for the use of them,
I may take occasion to remark here that I consider 40
dollars of entry to a library too high, and two dollars of
annual subscription too low. The great object of ^ libra-
ryis to disseminate knowledge. *To secure that object,
the library should be within the reach cS every member of
%
PBKNSTLVANIA^
165
the community. But every one cannot affoitl to give 40
dollars at once, while the greater part of those who wish
to read can afford more than two dollars a year. The
class o£ people to whom an institution of this kind is the
most valuable is young men entering into the world,
many of whom could not, or would not willingly, advance
40 dollars, but who would cheerfully give four or five
dollars a year. Would it not be a wise regulation to ac-
pmmodate such?
The most flourishing library, in point of funds, that I
have heard of, is one iii London, where the entry is one
guinea, and the annual subscription is the same. It is en-
tirely public, unclogged with any idea of stock, or shares.
The subscribers are above 1000, and the income b, of
course, above 1000 guineas a year.
The Glasgow public library is on a similar pbn, but
with more limited funds, and is the most thriving institu-
tion of the kind that has ever come under my observation^.
From the library, we passed to Peale's Museum, which
is a very excellent collection, principally of subjects in na-
tural history, and does honour to the ingenuity and taste
of the proprietor. Among other curiosities it contains an
entire skeleton of the mammoth, well worth the attention
of the naturalist.
I took a walk to the Schuylkill bridge, which is an ele-
gant structure, consisting of three arches, built of woody
supported by strong stone piers, and covered in on the
top. The length of the bridge is 550 feet, besides the
abutments and wing walls, which are 750 more. The
span of the middle arch is 198 feet, that of the other two
150 each. It is 42 fe«t wide. The foot- ways on each
* See Appendix, No. 3.
166
TXAYBLS m
^ .
ft.-'
side occupy five feet each, and the carriage-nvay, which is
divided into two parts, 32. The bridge, which was she
years in building, was finished last year, and the expence
was 235,000 dollars.
September 28. Having visited every thing I Wished
to see in the city, I was invited by a party of firiends to
take a jaunt in the country. We crossed Schuylkill !>y
.'he foresaid bridge, and travelled four or five miles, to see
a flax spinning-mill, belonging to a gentleman from Dun>
dee. The mill was not at work, but we were informed
that the business was doing very well ; the produce was
mostly twine. Being joined by the Dundee manu&cturer,
we passed on to the Falls of Schuylkill, where, at a very
pleasant situation on its banks, we stopped for dinner.
The Schuylkill river ris^ in the mountains, about 120
m^es north-west of Philadelphia, and is navigable from
Reading downwards to the upper fidls, three miles above
where we stopped. The tide ri^es to the lower falls,
where the river is about 150 yards broad. The fiills are
much broken by huge masses of stone, v/ith which the
bed and banks of the river abound. The banks are high-
ly romantic, and are ornamented with many elegant coun-
try seats.
While dinner was preparing we had a dish of politics,
in which frequent appeals were made to me ; but I declined
taking any share in the argument, for 1 did not fully
agree with either party. Indeed, I saw pretty plamly that
self-interest was at the bottom of it, and that the party-
names they assumed were merely other terms for importers
and manufacturers^ who conceiving that their interests
were opposed to each other, blam^ the government of the
United States — ^the one party for doing too much in sup*
""1
If.
PBlOrSTLVANIA.^
167
I Mshed
friends to
iiylkiU \yy
Aes, to see
rom Dun-
; mfoimed
jduce was
nufecturer,
!, at a very
linner.
about 120
gable from
liles above
ower falls,
le falls are
which the
is are high-
gant coun-
port of domeitic manufiustukcs, and the other for doing too
lll^. . But aU was discussed in good humour. •
After dinner, we returned, through a pleasant, well-culti-
vated country, by an excellent turnpike road, and in our
ivay stqpped at Harrowgate, where there b a medicinal
spring, which b a good deal frequented in the summer
season. We returned to the city in the evening. The
day was clear and pleasant, and the air cool and healthy.
168
^.•.
yeKKdYLVANIA/
■1**'
'i-i,
* ■••^ -.•'
'i •./.'.
CHAPTER XXVI.
.^ Pennsylvania. j^.
This fine state is situated between 39* 43' and 42^
north latitude, and 52° 20' east, and 3° 30' west Lon^tude.
^tf^ It is 320 miles long, from east to west, and 162 miles
broad ; and contains 49,390 square miles, being 31,609,600
, • acres.
The fece of the country is remarkably diversified.
The south-east part, to the distance of about 60 or 70
miles iirom Philadelphia, is an undulating country, swell-^
ing in some places into considerable hills, but is not moun-
tainous. The mountainous region then commences, and
extends across the country about 120 miles. The moun-
tains are generally in long chains, running north-east and
south-west. Between the chains, the country is rough and
hilly, but there are many fine valleys, and the whole
abounds with picturesque scenery. To the north and
west of the mountains, the countiy is elevated, abound-
, * ihg with hills, valleys, and rich scenery ; which continue
about 120 miles, to the extremity of the state.
The country is remarkably well watered. Lake Erie
is situated on the north-west, and the Delaware bay on
the south-east, by both of which there are fine outlets,
the one affording direct and speedy communication with
thfe Atlantic Ocean, the other communicating with it by
the more circuitous course of the river S-:. Lawrence ;
//
hS,
FEmriTLYAXlA.
diversified.
,ut 60 or 70
untry, swell-
is not moun-
mences, and
The moun-
)rth-east and
is rough and
the whole
north and
;d, abound-
lich continue
Ite.
Lake Erie
bay on
fine outlets,
tication with
Ig with it by
Lawrence ;
while k is a link in th^ duun of an inland navi^don, eiif-
lending through the lakes upwards of a thouaand niiles.
To the aouth^weatf the state communicaties wiUi the Ohio,
havings an otidet through the Mississippi, to the Giilphof
Mexico ; and, from the middle, there is an outktthrbugfi
the Susqoeliamiah to the Chesapeak-bayb '^ -
The riveH Delaware and Schuylkill have been already
mentibned. 'Fhe most impoftant of the others I shdl notioe
in their order from east to west. . *. .. v 2^mt^|j
The \Lehigh rises among the mountains, between iIk
Delawwe and Suaquehannah, and,> running a very erook«id
passage^ emterges from the mountains abobt SCV milei from
its Source, and from thence runs through a fine' country
SO miles,' durnig^ which k is navigable, to Eastom where .
it fidts kta the Delaware. i4i|:
'^^Sbii'tShtiquiharimk^ is a noble river, and appeals on the
map-likoa l|vg& crooked tree, with numerous^bcanches.
The head waters of the eastern branch are nomerous^ and
rise m^he state of New York, not £ir fix)m the watbs df^ the
Mohawk riv«r. tPasung into the state of Pdnnsyli«tu«| k
makes a remarkable bend, callbi^- appr^xpiateii}^ the' j9i(|^
tktkL: S^stm thence it makes a stretch into New^ Yoric, and
passing to ^ westward, about 40 miles, turns, i^^^ the
southwwdji Slid passes into the state of X^^^imiylvaiiia,
where it terns a junction with the Tioga river «i 1I\q^
point. Itthenrunsasouth-eastcouvse, about 70miles; when
laaking^a sudiden bend, at a right angle, it runs a ioiith<^
Hiest course^ about 8Q itHles, and unites with the westem
branch, at Noithumberland. The river is now nearly
Mf aiaUe btoad, and flows through the mountains^ nearly
a south bourse «of « ^a miles, to where k roodnras lite
Vol. r.
7
470
tzmnrtrMtmi,
•Jimiltfli river. fVom thenoe It mdiM a cansidaable bend
•toithe cutifmtdty land rutinkig about 10 miki^it emerges
Arohi^thrnMNinttiiis^ilbove Hanisburg ;, and keepaa south'.
leaA;«bilirierabout 90 mika, when itfiiU& intotfae Chenf.
The Tioga river has ila head vaten^nrtljirliAPemiayl.
yixxm^^ and |>artly ia New York^ where 9QBie«]£>llie streams
afiindieli nvithiii a few miles of the watlbrs jof die St.
Lawrence. These all unite in New. York alMe, towaudi
iAe rPainted Post; and run a aoutb^eaafc eoiiiarKof >nearty
NOviiiesi to the junction with the Su0quel0limh«n . , 4 a
£^{(. The 'western, branch of the SusqiwtoiMh kJctmed b}^
^nanyatreains,; beyond the AUegany r.iVM>i|iitaii)ak 9Qi»e of
4mai apfffoacbing within a few miies iof ib^^ waters of the
St Lawrence, and others within aJbtrmyoftipf^the Waters
fif ikss Ohio and Misaissij^ and mmi a v«iy eirouitous
fioiiraepdupwards of 200 miteti,. princ^p^jr :a9M97tbe
innuiit»iis»ritoi^Juiictio!i with the east branoliu Di,:^ii oii i
^ } nShm luniata nvtst nbes on the . AUegai^; mownlaiiia,
liewtithe; head- wateraof the Coneonaugh, a bmieh^olf the
^Muo^vtad pasaing through: the mountains tiotrteeasitwanl,
ilgr^i.iicR^r serpentine eaarte^ it &lls into te' Stttqftf IjJMmib
•l(JafeiBM^y'ita.kngth^b^^ cy> ^rnV^^rr
>i^Hiferkng!th of the Suai|ueha»Bab, ^am [|^ Chesf^eak-
||^i^ tjbeiiead qf the extern bmnchi$;is ^ftwrnMiOf^^O
ieikmt ^uid itbe inrhbkmer, inolu^nigsi^ ivalersa
«Hliili>;j nearly 200 miles square^ J^iiiniivig^afiirlocg)^
fKsaeta/cniy a few mk^ tad theitera*? ^numji;
9^ £iU% mdiieh tibstruct the navigation! lor boats^^ jbut iit
ialfnesumfid rthat; these can be reaiiiolviQd»^Knd' t]|ill»i^;the
sdAoSsaMoeiloakaaiid' oanajs, itcanNb<^]rea(iatfid 4mig»r
ble^r almost ^o the source 2of the pastern branch. > The
ivcsieiti branch is navigable^ fer tbootsji tmrliyiW^t/&^.
Old the Juniata nvtt wuAy '120» . From this flhcH^; aQ**;
count, the impcitancfr (>f improving the fiavigatiofi of UhH
fine river will beTcadily inferrecU
The AUegany River rises im the highest land in the
stale, to the w es twai d of the mountains, withih a feur
miles o£ the head* waters of the Geilesee River, and Ifaq
western biaach> of the Susquehannah. It ii here caUo^
Oswaya Cfeek, and runs a;;tiQrth-^est cotinse into the
ItHte of New York, atad, passing again' into the state of
Pennsylvania, it receives the waters of. Conewongo Greek
and Chataughque Lake. From thence it nms a n^inding
course^ but generally south-west, toc^ Franklita^ where it
receives the waters of French Creek. From Ithenoe it
runs a circuitous ^course about 100 miles, receiving in its
progress nlany tributary streamsf particularly Tdbyte
Creek and Kishkemanetas River ; and at Pittsburg^formS
a junction with the Monongahela, which together consti-
tute die Ohk>. i . ..-'m
^ The AUegany is a navigable river, and the naviga-
tbn is continued through French Creek to Waterfor^
firom wtKiice there is a portage of only 14 miles' to Lake
Erie. Tlie navigation is extended into the country 20 oi*
25 m^Hidi by the Kishkemanetas River. ^« 4iif^;u.^ ^a i
The M<)iMngtd)da rises in Virgiraa, near the Laurel
tnountaini^ Sind^hmningbyameanderii^ course about 70
m^ <t'^i^^4nto this state ; soon after which it received
the il^ii^H^ Cheat Rivei*. From thence it continues, 1^
a ^eirpe^^^ <$tiurse^ but neai^ m a northern directioH,
ilxMitt 6amtl«s; %here it forms a junction m^ the ¥6ji^
l<)g^,''^ahd iSi^ce mas mMth.\i«8t about '14 milei ^
Pitt^uf^.' ItiS'invvig^e in largQ bdats to BroWnsviUb
^:
172
rmtHftLrAmM.'
and IMttigiintbwii, 100 miln from its tnbuth; nid from
thence by^^Amatt botts 40 miles fitfther. The wtstcm
bfanch is slso navigable in lagh water. i '
The Yoxhiogem rises in Maiyland, aiid runs a course
cast of iiortfh, about 40 miles, beibre it passes /into this
italie. from thence )it runs a nCrth^tvest oonrae, and,
pas^g the Laurel Hil) and Chesnut Ridge, Ibrms the
jnnctioa^ with the Monongahela above^mentiohed'; its
whole length being about 100 miles. /• <iMl
trThift state is well supplied with iron ore, and coal
abomlds in many|)boe8, particularly in the western couiii
tiy^ Slate b found m several places ; and marble and
freestone, of an excellent quality, are found in great abun-
dance. / ' Limestone is also in great plenty, and some cop-
per and lead have been found,- but not. in sufficient quan-
tity to: be wrought. There are many mineral springs in
the' state. . ^)^\^\*ivh'i: •f^y^f^:\ ■ "^r'~}
The soil to the east of the mountains is generally good^
and a considerable part of it is bedded oa ' limestone.
,Among the mountains, the land is roughs and much of it
poor ; but there are a great/many rich and fertile valleys.
^o the west of the mountains, the soil is generally eicceU
lent. ■■vf^^v.it/'M-' >-. ■■•<• <■ ■•.
''**: The climate is very various. Cfn the east ^ide o£ the
lAUegany mountains it is pretty rimilar to iefsey, already
descrUsed. It is, in common with ^le othec countries east
of the mouiitauis^ subject to g^feat and sudden cfinages.;
but it is considered more settled than immedi^t^y on t|ie
sea-board, and is perfectly healthy^ The winter coynmencea
about the SOth of Decemberr and the spring ^^ets in about
two weeks eariier than at Mew York, 4wofig tb^rioiouif-
latns there is a sharp atmosphere, witb; ai cle^j.f^j|Jed
't
BUnrfTLTAMIA.
4
I7t
^ Then h finosi fllmost every month in the jreAr m
«MBe.plaJoes} and the extremes of beat and cold are cony
fliderable. The wintera may be reckoned a month longer
Am to the eastward. The whole region ia very healthy.
4^Tbe cottntry beyond the mountains baa a temperate oh^
male, with a considerable portion of cloudy weather ; and
the winters are more humid and mild than on the Atiantic.
The atate was firat setded by the Sweden and Fin-
landers in 1627, and afterwards by the ilhislnous William
Pernii in 1681 ; and from the liberal principles which
be adopted* and the encouragement held out to settlers of
all idcnominations^ the country experienced a rapid pro-
gress. The state took an active part in the revolutionary
war^ during great part of which Philadelphia was the seat
e|. congress. A state constitution was framed at an early
period of the war ; . but a new one was adopted in 1790;
The state now sends two senators and eighteen represe»'
latives to congress. :.m
Pennsylvania is divided into 37 counties, and upwards
of 500 townships. The peculation, in 1800, was 602,365;
including 1150 slayes, being id)out 12 persons to the
aquare-mile^-'''^' '^' =**-■'■'■ 'i* .»^-;---^*v-f't'v,Tf .:-.•!*■■-, -^ rr-^»f-iv-
The state has made rapid progress in national improve-
loeiits, tod abounds in all the conveniences, and many of
die li^xuries of life* The accumulation of property since
die cjbae of the war is very great ; and, exclusive of Phi-
lade^hiii, the state' oontains 12 to^ms, in which there are
from 1000 to 4500 inhabitimfts, among which Lancaster,
Yoric^ Reading, Carlisle, and Pittsburgh «re the most
conspicuous. Besides these, there are upwards of 20
iflQages^eaoh containing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants,
and ithe g^ter part, if not. the whole of those towns and
4
'*
'%
174
immiiiTafkwiMt
t
tttlagcs aiie maitmung in wadih «nd pdpnlaMir Tfak
form lxMiiM>4tfti mostly comfoitablr, itiaMjr of than '«le*^
gant,'4mli tere' an Ane barris and ' olher. buildings* The
state isMnell impnyved by lumpikd roads and bridge; and
kttdyf a^g^t degree of attentioiiniaB been paid to canals;
Many turnpike^ and' canal eompuniea hive been Jbrmed. :
v: The agnciih!uiie of the state haa piogi««se<lra]iidty, and
is in stti advancect state. The atapfo^irticle it> wheatf of
which the ^nanlity manliiactiiredfiiiio flour innualiy is
ihimenae; It is.reckoned the best in^ the^^ United Staie^
and BiirpasBed by none in the worid; (The mountainouA
district is pretty much applied to rasing stools. * The
breediof horses is teckoned the best m the tJnItid States*
She^ have of Jate greatly inci:«ased, land thfivo fttiharka^
bly well. All the grains, grasses, and roots commtti tatht
dthet states thrive here. The stock of Ihiity paltiduMf
peaches, is excellent ; and some progress has of Iflie beeb
made in the cultivation of the vine. '•""' n?v .^itj
H PennsjAvania b said to be oine of the graitesi flfiiffiilic-
lliiring states kv tlieMUnion. Domestic manufiMStbt^is' at«
goiend throiighoiit the state ; but theite aife tihaiiy hlfiimiL
factures on a large scale, some of which may be^cSllime-
rated. Of uxm there are above 30 iumaee^ beMd«S ^hu-
tnerous forges, slitting mills, ittidtiip htiffim^; Of t<^%)od,
idl sorts' of ftimiture^ and impletti^ts •of • ^^bail(ilr^< ^ Of
leather, boots, shoes^ saddles, bri^esy^'harrkss^ ^t^' Of
wool, a variety of cloths, stockingir^ and- hntti ' T^igiBM'
with a varidty of other artieles^^i^ ^Mlt li<!^^, '^jn-
Tits, glass, ttshes;^ mapl^^ silgar, hiu^iletSy ^^^Her^ iiidk,
balls, canno%beBs, «cc.&^;- 'in<vAl .amii-nqdiuxi
<8 * The exports cohs«itl prtrtclj^ oF^^gi^; floiii*, itbh
Utensils, flaxseed, soap and' 'ta^idles, l^Tiilberj Bi^- ^i)bi^,
^
tWirtTLyAVIA.
173
liiT Tfafe
them ele*^
gBs The
dges; and
to oaiiE^
I mYtutt\ of
mnually is
ited Stales^
ountttltioiiA
ck. ' The
ffnin to t)it
;tf iBiK&beeb
to Tkftilinount of YxpcrtB, in 1805, was 1^,763^252
dbUmjifif wliicftr 4,365^240: doUir^ wn domotk piodaoe.
Tht |ifiiK)ipykiaiticl«i of cxp6it to Briudn avet gnin and
frmff /ind ioinD totton from the sottthcm sMcb. The
impQfta CQiiaist/of £aafc andWoat India ahdiChinrgpods;
liriBB^ tpOi ftu:.-fiBQnLthe€Diilineiil'Qf £urope^ jBKliiiami-
:f»tx^Kmkom Bntaisittif: which the quanlilf mpdrHid is
imncoaai and ia'ycar^ increasing. tThfi Yalaci a£ imports
iMribout ;12,Q0Q|00aMolkir» anmieUy^of m4^ irain
jkitan area fvU Mf ; from whence wcma^ infer «|^>iiiA-
liljl olclhAiliade to balhiiiountiies,. and thi: imporliince df
a good understanding between them. *' fv>v>m
The state of society may be pretty much inferred from
the preceding remarks. The inhabitants have every ex-
ternal appearance of ease and affluence, and they are re-
markably civil and industrious. There are no beggars to
be seen here. Indeed, I have not yet seen any in the
United States, which is a remarkable contrast to Europe,
and bears testimony to the prosperity of the country.
The civil government is vested in a legislature, consist-
ing of a senate and house of representatives. The senators
are chosen for four years, and the representatives annually,
by the people. The executive authority is vested in a
governor, who is also elected by the people, and holds
his office for three years. The constitution declares,
" That all men are bom equally free and independent ; —
that all power is inherent in the people; — ^that all men
liave a natural and indefeasible right to worship God ac-
cording to the dictates of their own consciences, and no
man can of right be compelled to attend, erect, or support
any place of worship, or to maintain any ministry against
his consent ; — that no human authority can, in any case
xn
PBVll«Tt.YAHIA.
wbiMver, oomroul or kiterfiere wkh the rigfati of con.
«cieiioe» mad that no prefbenoe afaall «¥cr be 'givcii^ by
kw, to ai^ religious CftBblishnientSy or niodee of wot.
ship ;— tlHit eketioni ahsU be free and equal ;^-*4liat-tritl
by jury ahall be imdoUne i > t hat ho law ahiil ever be
made to reatrapn the liberty of the ^rei8{»-4hat the people
shril be* aeoBfe agaioit all umrairaMtable aearchee, and
exoeaaive b«l ahall not be required ;«-*4hat the legiahttuie
ifaaM pronde^'by law for the eMMrfmient 6f ashoek
ft ioi ij^im tftfae state, in such s jliailBer to the poor m^
betang^ grBlit;<Mhe arts and 'aoienoea ahall' be> pnt
mOted.** '• ;-»«.(>■' ■•''":;^'' !..}.' r'.i;m /wKJT^'fj
i4^'*-i- ■,
' ''
; 1 . jfi'>0' 'tfj ')(';
kifv Tr-:. -'''k hiM '.,'• ' >
, . •' > ;'■ i:iifie»
r>t - i-\ Of! "" . ■ '^
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■ ■ '
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'!.■/ ,r.» !< h>'MT i
■ ■,!,.'!,.»<} jjjf) 'j: /
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BELAWABB.^''-
1.77
i of con-
[iiwi* by
rf iror-
' cnfcr ''06
ht people
Eii6B» and
tuiiiiilrtHir
i B dhoch
pDornu^
I be^pid*
. , . '■" '.
si/* siVi'
I'j^ '.:• '^ ' ,'■'■
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"^••irt V
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/"t-Jit
■J>
*'^' CHAPTER XXVII.
*yt|:yf^)L) -kJi f>,(i: til! .J .
. Delaware rtvef^ — Newcastle.
■/»,ff»
Tuesday, {September 30. Haying engaged a pas-
9i(ge on board a packet-boat bound to Newcaatle, 40 miles,
b^w thiacit}r, I. went on board, this morning, at 7 o'dock*^
The packet was called the Hope, and was one of a^line^ofi
boats tliat.nin between Philadelphia and Newcastle; from,
thence there is a communication by stages across the state
of I Delaware to the Chesapeak bay, where another line of
b^liits, connected with this, proceeds to Baltimore: the
whole called, appropriately, Land and Water Stages* The
distance by this route is about 120 miles, and the fiire, in-
clifding board, is about three dollars. * m.
We set sail with a light wind, and almost right against
us; bjit the, tide was in our favour, and we made tolerable
progress till we reached six miles below Phikiddphia,
where we got aground on a place called the Horse-Shoe,
\Yhere we lay nearly two hours. After getting off, wo
sailed about four miles, when we were obliged to come to
anchor, the wind and tide being both against us. Having
stopped here till three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed
anchor, and sailed eight or ten mil^ > but the wind wi^
right ahead, and had encreased too much to beat down, 90
we were obliged again to come to anchor. We once more
set sml at 11 o'clock at night, and next mommg, at 5
o'clock, we reached Newcasde'
VOL. I.
z
178
TIAfBLt Ilf
The liter at Philadelphia u about a mile broad, and it
widens as you proceed downwards. At Newcastle it is
two miles broad ; from thence it spreads out into the Dela-
ware bay. The banks of the river are level, and covered
with wood ; and the lands rise to a consklerable height at
a distance, affording in some places pretty good views.
The only rivers of note. that join the Delaware between
Philadelphia and Newcasde, are the Schuylkill and Bran-,
dywine creek. The post-road to Baltimore runs along the
western bank, and passes through Darby and Chester in
Pennsylvania, and Wilmington in the state of Delaware ;
which last is a large town, and has a very pretty appear-
ance when viewed fh>m the river. On the east side, in
Aersey^ are Gloucester, Woodbury, and Swedesborough.
Newcastle, where we stopped, is a small town contain-
ing about 200 houses, some of them handsome. It carries
on a considerable trade, principally in wheat.
October 1st Having taken an early breakiast, at a very
good tavern, we set out in the stage for the head of £lk
river; The road passes 13 miles through the state of De-
laware, and 11 miles throu^ Maryland ; and' I found the
whole distance a perfect level, without a dngle object to
excite attention, or gratify the imagination. The road was
very bed, the lands alternately sandy and marshy ; and the
people had a saHow sickly colour : the whole indicating a
country somewhat similar to the low lands of Carolina and
Georgia. But I was informed that this was a sort oi bye-
road, which had been taken by this line of stages, and tint
it led through the very worst part of the country.
t
DBLAWABE.
M*ir 'i9&-
179
ciiAFrER xxvm.
Delaware,
The state of Delawaire b situated between 38° 29' and
39° 47' north latitude, and I'' 15' and 1"" 56' east longi.
tude. Its greatest length is 100 miles, and greatest breadth
about 37 ; its area being about 2200 square miles, or about
1,408,000 acres.
The fiice of a great part of the countiy is level, abound-
ing with swamps and stagnant water ; but toward thenorth-
cm part it is more elevated, and near its extremity there is
a considerable chain of hills.
There are numerous creeks in the state, but no rivers
of consequence. The principal one b Brandy wine creek,
which Ms into the Delaware at Wilmington, and on which
there are numerous milb and manu&ctories. ^
The state is well supplied with iron, but I did not hear
of any other mineral.
The soil, in the southern pert, b low and sandy, and en-
tirely free of stones ; in the northern part it b more diver-
sified, and mixed with clay and loam.
The climiate partakes of the configuration of the country^
The southern part has a humid atiftosphere, often foggy
and un^dmlesome ; but is mild and temperate in winter.
The northern part b agreeable and healthy.
The settlement of thb state was coeval with that of
Penn^lvama. It took an active part in the revolution,
tm
DELAWARE.
uid sent two delegates to the first congress. The state
constitution was adopted in 1792. It now sends two se-
nators and one representative to congress.
Delaware is divided into three counties and 24 dis-
tricts called hundreds* The population, in 1800, was 64,273,
including 6143 slaves; being about 29 to tlie square
mile.
The state of Delaware is considerably improved, and
besides many towns and villages of inferior note, contains
sevend of considerable size. The most important are,— •
Wilmington^ already mentioned, a large thriving town,
built on the plan of Philadelphia, consisting of 500 houses,
a court-house, jail, and four places for public worship;
it carries on a very considerable trade. Newcttstle h3&
been noticed. Dcvkr is the seat of government,, and
contains about 600 inhabitants. Lewistawn contains about
750; and Georgetown about 200^
A canal was projected across this state and part of Ma-
ryland, to form a junction between the- Delaware and
Chesapeak, and it is partly cut ; but tlie work was stop-
ped for want of funds. It may probably be well- that it is
so ; for it was projected on too small a scale, and, in pro-
cess of time, will probably give way to one that will admit
of sloq) navigation. I liever observed a finer situation for
a canal. The distance between the Delaware and Chesa-
peak is only about 18 or 20 miles, and the country is
nearly level, so that few locks will be requisite ; and were
a canal cut, it would4brm a connexion between two of tlie
finest rivers in America, and be a link in the chain of an
internal navigation of vast extent. W^si
The greater part .if the inhabitants of this state ar6r de-
voted to agricultural pursuits, and they have rendered it
DSLAWAEE.
181
The state
ds two se-
id 24 dis-
m 64,273,
tlie square
roved, and
te, contains
rtant are,— •
ving town,
500 houses,
ic worship;
Tvettsth has
nmeht,. and
ntains about
' I'i- '' •■ '
part of liila-
^ware and
k was stop-
krellthatitis
and, in pro-
at will admit
situation for
and Chesa-
country is
; ; and were
two of the
chain of an
ite are de-
rendered it
very productive. The principal produce is wheat, rye,
Indian com, barley, oats, and flax. Grasses are abundant,
and thrive very li)xuriantly, fumisliing food for many cat-
tle—- and every sort of vegetable common to the states
already described thrive wdl here. The staple produce
is wlieat, of which a great quantity of flour is made for
export.
Flour is the principal manufacture carried on in the
state. The mills on Brandy wine creek are in great per-
fection, giving employment to upwards of 600 hands ;
and they manufacture upwards of half a million of busliels
annually. The other articles consist principally of iron,
paper, and lumber. In these, a very extensive trade is
carried on, principally with the other states and the West
Indies. The exports in 1805 amounted to 358,383 dol-
lars, of which 280,556 was foreign produce. The prin-
cipal trade with Britain is carried on tlirough the medium
of Philadelphia.
A very considerable fund is appropriated by the state
to the support of schools, which are pretty numerous, and
there are two fburishing academies; one at Wilmington,
and thp other at Newark. «
The constitution guarantees equal rights to all the citi-
zens, without regard to property or religious opinions. The
government is vested in a governor, a senate, and house of
representatives, which are elected by ballot, and " e^'ery
white fineeman of tlie age of 21, who has resided in th6
state two years next before the elebtion, shall enjoy the
right of an elector. The sons of persons so qualified sliall,
betwixt the ages of 21 and 22, be entitled to vote, though
they have paid no taxes."
m
T«AVEIS,1J|
^ ^^jH^
CHAPTER XXIX.
t-^t*»*5^ ;-i'^
iW'%t*^'f'ltU¥--^ir^
'^ Chesapeak baify — Baltimore,
On the 1st of October, 1806, the day being clear
and beautiful, we arrived at Elk river, a branch of Chesa-
peak bay, here about two miles broad. At 1 o'clock we
stepped aboard the packet, and immbdiately set sail M^th a
lair wind ; and enjoyed oiu: situation very much ato* the
dull scenery we had passed, and the disagreeable jolting
in the stage.
•'i- Having sailed about two miles, we passed a pnetty large
creek, called Bohe Rivor, and, at half past 3 o'clock, reach*
ed the Chesapeak bay. The view here was extensive and
sublime. The bay is about six or seven. miles broadband
its banks abound in rich scenery, while its waters were
animated with a great variety of small vessels. To the
north-west is the entrance of the. fine river Susqudiannah^
about a mile broad, and its banks swell out into hills of
considerable magnitude, which terminated our view in
that direction. To the east the country is low, and the
soil appears poor and sandy. *
The v«and shifted to the eastward, which conaderably
retarded our progress ; but this afforded mt more leisure
to survey the scenery, which was every where pleasant
The number of small vessels that we saw was very great,
indicatmg a considerable commerce.
.■ /
«
MABTLAND.
Ida
t 4-'T?.
I'f'^^J.- '■' -
tng clear
>f Chesa-
clock wc
ail with a
latothe
tie jolting
lettylargc
ick,reaeh-
;n^ve and
sroad^and
inters Mrere
, To the
udiannah,
:o hills of
view in
, and the
laderably
leisure
pleasant
[ery great,
October 2d. Having gone to bed last evening early,
I rose this morning at 1 o'clock, when I found it dear and
cold; and a considerable breeze blowing from the north-
west I thought at first that this was in our favour, but I
soon found that we had in the night passed the branch
that leads to Bdtimore, and were nearly as far down as An-
napolis*^ We had therefore to beat up all the way to Bal-
timore, now distant about 20 miles. However, the vessel
sailed remarkably well, and we made good progress. Dur-
ing the passage upwards we had a very fine view. We
arrived at Baltimore at 6 o'clock in the morning.
Having taken lod^ngs at Evans' tavern, I called on a
friend to whom I had 2i letter o£ introduction, and he po-
litely ofifelred his services to fiicilitate my inquiries at Bal-
timore. On my return to the tavern to breakikst, I wa^
astonished to see the number of well-dressed men who sat
dowh to table, amounting to abbut 80, and I was told the
number was seldom under 40 or 50. This is partly ac-
counted for by Baltimore being the great thorough-fare
between the northern and southern states; and the number
of people passing to and fro, on business and pleasure,
is -immense. I learned that a great number of strangers
mst in the city at tliis time ; among others, my old
friends and Mow-travellers, the Georgia major Bnd the
fiwetiotts EngUshmart, They lodged at Bryden's tavern,
a house nearly, or altogether, as much fi^uented as
Evans'^
Accompanied by my fiiend, I went to see the market-
house, which is handsomely fitted up, and well siipi^d
with provisions: the prices, I wa:s told, were reasonalde,
and nearly the same as at Philadelphia. From thence we
went to the coffee-house. On our ^vay my friend pointed
184
,«
Tififits M
. out, through a window, a very handsome lady with her child,
who he in£;>rmed me were the wife and child of Jerome Bo-
nf^arte. The coffee-house is small, but commodious, and
is well supplied with newspapers, from every part of the
United States. From the coffee-house we went to the
library, which contains* a very excellent collection of books,
and is under good management. The amiual subscription
' ^ four dollars. The whole city exhibited a very hand-
some appearance; and the country round abounds in villas,
gardens, and well-cultivated fields.
In the afternoon I went to view the ship-yards, and saw
a three-masted schooner launched. I was informed that a
great many of these vessels are built at Baltinu)re, and that
they are reckoned the festest sailing vessels in the Umted
States*. ■■■ : i\*€*f; rr'swj '"5fft ftf :-— ..,••,
?i I spent a very pkasant evening at Bryden's, along with
my friendi m company with the major and the English-
man. The major related a number of marvellous adven-
tures he had met with jn his journey, luid concluded by
informing us that he was to drive tandem all Uie way to
Georgia, and was to be accompanied by an elegant kidy,
and her husband, whom he had engaged ad a clerk. To
accommodate his suite ^ he was to take a Jersey waggon,
in which he politely offered me a passage; but I preferred
travelUiig in my own way, and declined it. The Eng-
lishman informed me that he was to leave Baltimore next
morning by the stage for Cumberland, and was from
thence to travel through the interior of the country to
New Orleans, availing himself of land or water convey-
ance as he might find it most suitable and expeditious.
Baltimore is situated on a branch of the Patapsco
river, called the Bason^ 15 miles from the Chesapeak bay,
meno
rabies
that it
States,
by the
of whc
of bri(
public
house,
change,
Thenu
^ chi<
boots ai
adjoinin
forges, y
Thes
Ae four
centres i
wealth
trade is
Pennsyb
river; an
'eshippin
duce,^— r
ports are 1
supply of
trade. I
em states
It is 50
which has
Ae inhabi
VOL. I.
■ARYLA171>.
185
ler child,
EAne Bo-
ous, and
rt of the
It to the
[)t books,
)8cri|»tion
ay hand-
i in villas,
■ .■,-*'l5.- '
aloiigivith
: English'
ms adven-
Lcludfidby
way to
:gantlady,
Icrk. To
waggon,
preferred
'he Eng-
[more next
was from
jountry to
;r convey-
iidpus.
Patapsco
ipeak bay,
and 160 miles fibm the Atlantic oic^m At the com-
mencement of thie Ameridn war, it was but an inconside-
rable viNiage ; but such has been the rapidity of its growth^
that it \h now the fbUrth commercial city in the United
States. It contains upwards of 6000 dtv^lUng-houses, and,
by the census of 1600, the inhabitants amounted to 26,514^,
of whom 2843 were slaves. The houses are mostly built
of brick, and many of them are elegant. The principal
public -buildings are 13 places of public worship, a court-
house, a jail, three market-houses, a poor-house, the ex-
change, theatre, observatory, assembly-rooms, and library.
The manu&ctures of Baltimore are cciisiderable, and con-
sist chiefly of ships, cordage, iron utensils, paper, saddleiy,
boots and shoes, hats, wool and cotton cards, 8cc. In the
adj(nning country there are numerous mills, furnaces, and
forges, which contribute much to the trade of the city.
The state of Maryland, in point of foreign trade, ranks
ifae fourth in die union, and as a very great pordon of it
centres in Baltimore, it must necessarily add greatly to its
wealth and importance. A great portion of the export
trade is flour, much of which is received from the state of
Pennsylvania, through the medium of the Susquehannah
river; and the citizens have a brisk trade in importing and
reshipping foreign articles, particularly West India pro-
duce,-'— rum, sugar, and cofiee. A great portion of the im-
ports are manufactured goods fix>m Britain, and, having the
supply of an immense back country, this is an increasing
trade. I learned, too, that many of the people in the west-
em states give Baltimore the preference to Philadelphia.
It is 50 miles nearer to Pittsburg than the latter city,
which has a natural tendency to secure a preference; and
the inhabitants of Maryland, who seem to appreciate the
VOL. I.
2 A
/
JL86
TRAVELS IK
importance of this trade, have acted l^kh a laudable zeal
in making good roads. Upon the whole, I was highly
pleased with the commercial importance of Baltimore, and
regretted that I did not fix upon this place £br my com-
mercial establishment, in place of $ayannah. The trade of
Baltimore is facilitated by three banks, having all ample
capitals. One is a branch of the bank of the United
States. ' ., .
The affairs of the city are under the management of a
city council, consisting of two branches, and a mayor.
The police seems to be under good regulations, and the
> streets are kept very clean, which secures good health to
the citizens. Education is pretty well attended to, and
the citizens are said to be hospitable and industrious.
The men rank as correct men of business; and as to the
^ladies, I saw but little of them^ and can only say, in the
language of the quaker, ** they loqk well."
^.
:; ' i',>
> u-
i, r
.iiiiii
Thi!
kiitude
tromel
tremet
irregula
miles, (
water.
The
isboun(
extremit
waters, ]
itpresen
The east
continue
level to J
fry, and
TheC
merits a
tancetot
raUy. 1
hannah B
h ir of sn
and so cc
timore.
; /
ible zeal
IS highly
nore,and
my com-
le trade of
all ample
e United
ment of a
a mayor,
s, and the
L health to
xl to, and
idustrious.
1 as to the
say, in the
HARYLAl^O. 187
. *'«v;''— -^/lifetyiilAJikifi^u/"-'/*, •,' ''l"''- V*;f^ilfl4<li^»■*li■J#f■
CHAPTER XXX.
■■It*'.
HI-
if
:ii^f*l?^ '.'S'
Maryland,
This state U situated between 38° and 39° 43' north
l&iitiide, and 2° east and 2° fXf west longitude. Its ex-
treme ]eng^-At>m east to west is 212 miles, and its ex-
treme breadth from north to soudi is 123 ; but it is very
irregular. If iis compu^ to contain about 14}000 square
miles, or 8,960,000 acresj of which abdUt one-fourth is
water. -^ .■, " i '- ■ ; ■• ^' ■ '
The fece of the country is remarkably variegated. It^
is bounded on the south-west by the river Potomac to its
extremity; and the fine Chesapeak Bay, with its numerous
waters, passes throu^ the middle of it. On the east side,
it presents a coast of about 35 miles to the Atlantic Ocean.
The eastern shore is low, level, and sandy. The country
continues to rise by a very gentle ascent, but is generally
level to Baltimore. It then swells out' into a hilly coun-
try, and the western part stretches across the mountains.
The Chesapeak Bay has been aheady iK>ticed ; but it
merits a more particular description, from its vast impw-
tanceto this state, and, indeed, to the United States gene-
rally. This bay is formed by the outlet of the Susque-
hannah River, where it receives French Creek, and a num-
b.^r of smaller streams. It is there about 7 miles broad,
and so continues to near the branch that leads up to Bal-
timore. From thence it assumes various breadths, from
^
fesSt..
.1
•JL88 m&btlamih"
10 to 15 miles, during a course downwards of about
70 miles, to near the Potomac River. From thence it
stretches out to 25 or 30 miles, during a passage of 90
miles more, and finally passes into the Atlantic Ocean by
an outlet of 20 miles broad. ,<X^ whole course, firom
north to south, is nearly 200 miles, and it receives in its
passage the whole waters of this state; nearly the whole of
the eastern part of Virginia ; a great part of those of Pennsyl.
vania, and some of Delaware ; exhibiting* upon the whole,
a greater confluence of waters than is to be seen i^ the
'United States, or almost in the world. The principal
rivers in Maryland that run into th^ bay, besides the Sus-
quehannah apd Potomac, are the JPatapsco sxi^ Fatuxentt
on the west sid&; and, on the east ude, £lk River fSas-
safras, Chester^ Choptank, Nanticokcj and PocomokCt the
Ifust of which issues out of Cyprus Swamp. There are
numerous islands in the, bay, and the waters abound with
'-various kinds pf fish. , The state Is generally wejl watered^
and abounds, with millTseats. rr; di r- ^'xr-irtt^ z^?:^; r .jvi^jr;
Maryland is well SMppUed with iron ore, and some coal
has been foimd, but not in sufficient quantity to make it
anolyect of impQTt^ce^ , ,,v^v /tjv i / . w^: .u;u i
<fThe soil is very various, audi a great portion of it is
but poor. Towards the eastern shore, it is low. and sandy,
aboimding with swamps. In the interior, there are many
fertile spots; but the greater part of the land is poor, until
you pass the first ridge of mountains, when there is a fer-
tile valley oif 12 or 14 miles broad. From thence the soil
is pretty much assimilated to the mountainous district of
'Pennsylvania.. :. i^;tij.i^c ^■u-..^a'.....„ :,.;..; .
•,i, The climate is as various as the soil. The eastern part
is pretty similar to Delaware, indicated by a pale, sickly
*!i#^
/ /
MABYLAl^m
18>
colour in the inhf^bkants* Itimpraves as the land gets
hilly) and among the niountains is delightful, the sum-
in^ being cooled by fine breezes^ while the winters are
tempered by a southern latitude, which renders them much
more mild than to the northward.
The country was first settled by Lord Baltimore, a
Roman catholic, who evinad the liberality of his religious
principles, by providing for the free exercise of all other
religious opinions in the colony. At the commencement
of the revolutionary war, the state was declared to belong
to the citizens, who delegated five of their number to the
first congress. The state constitution was framed in 1776,
which, with a few trifling amendments, still continues.
The state now sends two senators and nine representatives
to congress^ , , ' , fr»-yt^
The state is divided into 19 counties, and contained, by
the census of 1800, 241,885 white pers(»is, and 107,707
alavesi being, in the whole, about 25 persons to the
square mile of territory ; but, when the proportion of wa-
ter is subtracted, it makes the amount to each square
mile nearly 35. 1 iif%*i,^, >
National improvements have kept pace with the indus-
try and perseverance of the inhabitants, and the towns,
cultivated' farms, roads, and bridges are all^ so many proofs
that the citizens of Maryland are possessed, in a high de-
gree, of these qualifications, .i.^ju /,i.t
Of the cities, Baltimore, already described, is the chief.
An n a pdLi s is the seat of government, and is situated on the
Severn River, about two miles from its entrance into Che-
sapeak Bay. The houses, built of brick, are about 300
in number, and the city contains about 2500 inhabitants^
The State-House in one of the most superb buildings in the
l90 MAHTLAKIfc
Uiiit^ Btat^. There isa college, a tKeMre, and two places
of public wonhnp ifi'tlie city. It has a harboiir, though
no great commerce ; but, being a pleasant place, it is the
residence of a great many wealthy people. Fredetick-
town is a large inland town, containing a court-house,
jail, academy, market-house, and seven places of public
worship. The inhabitants are about 6000 ; and the town
has considerable manufactures and inland trade. Hagen-
towrtj situated beyond the first range of mountains, con-
tains 2100 inhabitants. Besides these, there are a great
number of smaller towns and villages, containing fit>in
100 to 1000 inhabitants. A great number of the fintn-
houses are built of wood, and they are not so substantial,
nor so elegant, in general, as those in Peimsylvania.
This is the first state in which there is a material diffe-
rence of agriculture fh>m the northern states ; still, how-
ever, the staple crop is wheat ; but they raise a conude-
rable quantity of tobacco, and some cotton, though none
of the latter for exportation. AL Jie other grains, grasses,
and roots, that grow in the northern states, flourish here;
and the sweet potatoe, 9 root belonging to a warm climate,
comes to considerable maiority. ......
The principal manufiustures of the state have been no-
ticed in the' account of Baltimore ; and so has the foreign
trade. The exports from the state, in 1805, amounted to
10,859,480 dollars, of which 7,450,937 dollars was foreign
produce; and the imports are about equal in value, of
which a great part consists in dry goods from Britain*^
There are considerable funds^ impropriated to the sup-
pcNt of education. There are five colleges, and a number
of very respectable academies in the state, and common
schools in every county.
"|r»k" T < ■* ~
VABTLAIID,
91
oivttfgovaminent is vested in a governor, senate,
andhouse of delegates, all chosen annually. The qualifica-
tion to vote for delegates is a fireehold of 50 acres of land,
or property to the value of j^. 30 currency. The princi-
ples of government are similar to those of Pennsylvania.
i•^»^■
^1
•www
4
/
. ■ -.^
; .-^
vKS^
■^.^^
: >^*W1||
V 'i''tfil$^l^' If '-^ ■'!•:.■ -^ -
■ .'m
i\ .
. ,1,
:' ••«
^■:«C7i> ■;,;.■■ :r r<ffii'';; :;;^/-U jyis"i5'jn7yf ^-^^ ^>">jr 'ii]1'
-#
192
rnkvuiA in the
.1 I I'
li ;/ li-f* i't • . I (
CHAFTER XX*t.
fr'4#*?i<»-'' .s?t >«
Patapsco creek f — JFashington.
On the third of October, at eight o'clock, I set out in
the mail stage for Washington. We travelled eight miles
through a hilly, well-wooded, and healthy country, and ar.
rived at Patapsco creek, 25 miles above its junction with
the Chesapeak. It is navigable thus far, but the naviga-
tion is obstructed by the falls half a mile above. We
travelled eight miles more through a similar country, when
we stopped to change horses. The land seemed but poor,
and litde cultivated ; the principal woods were oak, hicko-
ry, and pine. The air was sweet and pure, and, having
intelligent company in the stage, the travelling ^vas very
agreeable. At 19 miles from Patapsco creek, we stopped
again to change horses, on an elevated situation, where we
had a fine view of the adjacent country; and, in one direc-
tion, not less than 20 miles distant.
From thence wff travelled 16 miles, through a country
rough and uneven, and by a road no less so, whe n 'vc came
to an agreeable plain; and two miles further we passed
through a little scattering village called Bladensburg, situ-
ated on the east branch of the Potomac ; from thence we
travelled nine miles more to Washington city ; the whole
distance being 44 miles. The country appeared generally
poor and sterile; and the season had been uncommonly
dry, in consequence of which all the grass and herbs were
Dt«1l»109r Of 0OI«UMBIA.
.its
out in
t miles
uid ar.
n with
laviga-
. We
r, when
at poor,
hicko-
having
very
itopped
icrewe
direc-
tountry
|c came
passed
J, situ-
Ince we
whole
^nerally
^monly
>s were
parobc^ and tbe Jiq^o^ mmim ^vciy wheic exhibiled a
acoix^ed^Uke apprytniy. I nolked^ however» ■evcnl
tbnvinK fi^ of tobicco. , .i a ■
Being told that we were entering Washington city, I con*
tinucd looking ibr thie houses for some little time; but tee-
ing noni , I thought I had misunderstood the gentleman
who mude the remark, and turning round for an explana-
tion, he told me, laughing, that we were almost in the very
middle of it, and asked if I did not see the Capitol a little
before us. I did, indeed, see a stately edifice, but no othoc
appearance of a city. Soon after this, the stage stopped,
at Steele's hotel, nearly opposite the Capitol^ where I took
lodgings.
On walking out to the Capitol Hill, I had a fine view of
the whole scite of the city, which is very large, extending
a mile and a half in each direction north and south of the
Capitol ; to the east two miles; and to the west nearly two
miles and a half. The buildings, though numerous, being
scattered over this large space, give it more the appearance
of a thickly-setded country than a city ; and, very few of
them extending in the direction we came, we had travelled
a good way into the city before I saw it.
The view from the Capitol is really superb. The whole
country round is handsomely setded, with elegant houses;
and the view is terminated to the west, south-west, and
north-west, with highlands. To the south, is the river
Potomac, with Alexandria pleasantly ^tuated on its banks.
The navy-yard and shipping, and the barracks, are seen to
the south-east and eastward; and to the west is the prew-
dent's house, a stately edifice, about a mile distant; be-
yond which, handsomely situated on the brow of the hill,
is Georgetown, The Pennsylvania avenue runs between
VOL. I. 2 B
194
.,*,UU-tRAVBt8 W TIIB»'<'
tlie Capitol and the president's house), and being ornament.
ed wkh trees and walkd^ on'each side^ forms a very pkas.
ing prospect. It is in this direction that the dty is making
great^ fjrogress.
Th^ evening was clear and pleasmt,and the reflection of
tlie setting sun add^ lustre to the sceneiy. i u-
, .,r,
* ■ 1 ;
"piifi.Xid'!: Hfj-XHuLi :^^.i:.
'.u'i^uiii .
,J ';
.■-;^4i.,» Jij^^U.^^j:
■5lllCj*'
-V J,
^''fi>lk:^ilt, »>.
,,yv^|k{-k i^^^i fefj- '
£f y^''M,yi^''t"
Ifc^
^V(f/
mament-
ay pkas-
isnudLing
Section of
iji /
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 195
CHAPTER XXXn.
Washmgt(m,'-'Treasuryy—'Capitol,-^Bdrracksr--Mw
yard, — Georgetown.
Washington, Octob«- 4. Having been fumJshdl
with a letter of introduction to a gentleman in the treasury-^
office, I called tliis mornings when I was politely received,
and goi every information calculated to facilitate my inqui-
ries. My friend carried me to the dilferent departments
in the office, which are all spacious, and comitiodious;
but this being a time at which there was no public bil«<-
ness, tiiere was litde to be seen. From thence we went
to the post-office, which has no great appearance exteriorly,
but it seems to be very well arranged in the interior to an-
swer the purpose for which it was designed. I was in^
formed that both these departments were under excellent
management. <> « ^
I was then introduced by my friend to the gentleman
who has the charge of the Capitol, and went vith him to
see ^lat edifice. It is an elegant building of hewn ston^
and uorisbts? of two wings and a portico in the middle.
The north wing was quite con^lete, and the whole legis-^
htive business was transacted in it for the time. The se^
nate-chatliber occupies the ground floor, and is an elegant
apartment, iii4th handsome fqmiiure; it is adorned with
full kngth pordikits of the late unfortunate king aB^'quiaen
of France^ : The house of representatives meet^httili iipiit^
1^
^/ «f«TllATBL8 IN TEH" »
ment up stairs, which, I was told, was ultimately destined
for the library room. It was fitted up with commodious
seats for the members, but no way ornamented. The only
things in it which merited notice, were two very elegant
views of the Ms ^f ;>^agan|. , From thence we went to
the south wing, where a great many workmen were em-
ployed ; and I was told they were making great exertions
to have it finished in time foi; the^next congress. The
apartment for the house of representatives is a large oval
9pptn,j9cpupying x\s»t\y the whole bu^diog Up $|iii»si, and
wMl« w)^n (^ishi^d* ^ very supetb. , ^-r ■ r^ im H-^^^t^ » w
.1 F4|oi{|it];i^,^CapitQl r^weiit to see ;^ barrack* > They
afp ktg^ ^nd} . ioonvenlent, and were : ganisoned) by 250
num h^f^ % portion of i the United Stat^' mmyl r I was
V^^ormed ithat th^y were ibuud in every thing, ^besides
their p^ of] six^ dc^kirs per months TJnsv however, does
iij9t bear a pro|x>i:tioiiiito the wages of the odiertrlasses in
^jnenca^ who, on an average^ may be found in evbry
tlufig, and have twelve dollars per month;. The coiise-
quencefia, that the few military that are wanted will pro-
hsblyQQtbe^ generally speaking, equal in i-e^ctability
to the other citizens. It is probable they wiU be com-
posed ^ inadleHt men, who are liot.wiUii^ to. labour, or
of vipiousmen, who h^ve be<feome obnoxious rto ^society.
^1^. should,. if possible, be guarded against^i Na set of
19^ should be more respectable than those to whom are
comimt^, the national defence ; and measures ihould be
devised to. place them on a footing, with their brethrmia
regstnd both* to industry and pecuniary ,means; tWould it
not be wise in a nation to plan works lof public utility,
and eiUiploy! a portion of the time of the miliitaij^itn^xe-
cuting thetn? This would not only improve the^cfounltry,
DISTttfOT OF COLVMIIA.
m
:stincd
o^us
[\e only
elegant
vent to
aneem-
lertions
.. The
•ge oval
ars, and
, .-,
They
by 250
i/ I was
^besides
^er, does
pbeisesin
in ev&f
le conse'
will pro-
ttciability
be com-
"ibour, or
isociety.
Or set of
lom are
lid be
m
^dold it
biiit ^ould keep tht ineh%active'einploym^^^ aSSatd
them wages equal to the other classes in society.
Froin the Barracks I went to the Navy-Yaitl, where I
saw eight or ten frigates, ^ most of them undiergoifig
repair, i went on board one^ which, I wad informed, was
the Chempeak. She tarries 44 guns, and appears very
large for ^^ai metal.
Having seen the most material places in Washington, I
procured a horse, and took a ride to Georgetown, three
miles distiait from the Capitol. The view is very elegant
the whole way, and, in the vicinity of Gleorgetown, there
is a ix>maiitic cliasm, in which there is a pretty large
stream of water, called Rock Creeks Having passed this
by a wooden bridge, I entered the town, whidi I found
itgularly laid out, and compactly built. It stands on the
side of a Mil, havitig a considerable descent to the riVer,
of which it has a fine view. It contains about 300 houses, .
and 4500 mhabitants. Mo^ of the houses are built of
bnck, and some of them are elegant The public builds
ings are five places for public worship, an academy, and
a bank. It is a place of considerable trade, which, Ih
consequence of the rapid settlement of the back country,
is yearly ihcreaaiig^ • :— «;: ;r< v ^.,. /?. .r i^ w-r- <^>.^'-.:;^
The RiVer Potomac, which is nearly a mile broad op^
ports' Washington, contracts here to less than a fourth of
Dnt diitaiice ; and it is proposed to build a bridge across
it, whicli, if executed, will add much to the convenience
ofthis part of the country. ^
This^ river merits particukr notice, and I cannot any
where iiitit>duce it ryith more propriety than here.
The Potomac rises from ^^ spring on'^the north-west side
of the s Allegany ihOuntains, and runis a north-ea^ tour^ of
^> ¥HAVBLS> IN" TBe r.t
about 60 miles, to Cumberland^ where it makes< a bend,
and, by a serpentine course, nearly soutb-eaat, runs about 18
milfis; to where it receives the south-west- branch. It then
turns to the nortli-east, and runs a very serpentin&voourse
of about 45 miles,! in which ; tt< receives a considerable
number of tributary streams, to Hancock's Town* Here
it m^es another bend to the south-east^ and 9. miles from
thence it receives the waters of Licking; Creek, and passes
the North Mountain kito a fine limestone valley, which it
waters by a ver}' windir^ course, and principally a south*
east direction, for about 45 mUes. In this valley it re-
ceives a considerable numbered small streams, particularly
the Conecooheague Credc, at WiUiamsport, in thie> mi<i^c
of tlie valley ; and at the es^tremky it receives Uie waters
of tlie Shenandioah from Virginia; and, by a. singularly
grand passage, issues through the Blue Mountain. It
thence passes on, nearly in the same direction, about SO
miles, where, by two. different falls, in the course of 8 or
10 milesj it descends above 140 feet to the level of tide-
water, which it meets at Georgetown^ .The,nver now
increases to about a mile broad, and, passing .^Alexandria,
and Mount Vernon, it runs a course, a little to the west
of south, to 35 miles below Alexandria, where k makes a
great bend of nearly 15 miles to tlie north-east* f It now
gradually increases in breadth^ and,- miming 50 miles be-
jk>w this bend, flows into the Chesapeak Bay» by a passage
about 10 miles broad. This is one of the most important
of the Atlantic rivers, and, from its inlersectingithexoun*
try in a!<^ntral situatioui has excited great, attention in
the Unked States; more i^specJallyunce^Washif^on was
fixed on as the seat of the general government, it is na-
vigable for ships. of ^y burden to iVl^x«M)dria,^,4i^^ce
it
DlSTftlCT. or COLINICBIA.
199
vabend,
about 18
It then
^.course
B. Here
iikt from
nd passes
wbich it
f a south,
lley it re-
artipularly
l^vijaiddle
he waters
^g^ttlarly
ititain. It
about SO
tseof 8or
rel of tide-
liver now
lexandria,
the west
it luakes a
1 It now
miles be*
afussage
iffipOTtant
ithe coun*
Len^on in
fon was
Jt isna-
a4isUnce
of about 160 imlesy and about lao from the Capeaof Vir-
giniat^; i and from thence for vessels of considerable burden
to Geovgetown, at the headof tide- water. There b a lock
navig^on, constructed at great labour and expence, round
tbe'fitst &lls. Con»derable improvements have been
made furtlier up the river.) and it is presumed, that, by
following up these, improvements, the river can be made
fit for: boat navigation to- Cumberland, 180 miles above
dde- water, the elevation being 700 ^t above tlie level oS^
the sea.
Connected with this^^ important subject, I may here no*
tice, that a road has been laid out^ by ^ order oif congress^
fipom Cumberland^ across the mountains^ to BrownsvUk on
the Monongahela^ia distance of 72rmi|es, on' whicb the
angle oST ascent is no where greater than 5 degrees. From
Brownsville there is an easy navigation to Pittsburg on
the Ohio. ^^^
I returned from Georgetown to dine with, my friend;
and after dinner was introduced to a number of gentiemen
of Washington, who vied with one another in showing me
attention, and in giving me inibrmation. w.
Among others, I saw Mr. Smith, the editor of the Na*
tional Intellig^cer, a shrewdy sensible man; and, having a
desire to be correctly informed of the measures of the ge-
neial government during my stay m America, I ordered a
copy of that p^per to be sent to Savannah. I had fre-
quently seen and admired it for its liberality of sentiment,
and freedom from personal abuse ; and, from the access
which the editor must necessarily haVe to the best sources
of information, I was satisfied that the iiitelli^;*{ice contain-
ed in it might be gencKiUy relied on. --^.vs-m i^w^r^' f:^^^
■^'
14., In the eveningi I was kifonned by my imd$, tfattt the
pi«8id^t had unexpectedly arrived in the .G%,^aQd,I ivas
advised to call upon him before I )sh it. ,1 VKif^hed veiy
much to have an opportunity of seeing ithepre^idciiti hut
I was infoiroed^ .l!^>^Yo|]c«,#Qd E|iilade^;)laa, jthat he
would not be, at Washington until, late in Nqtrember, in
consequenceof wluch, I w^ not funushedwithiailetter of
introduction. But tib^y informed me, that it was. altogje-
theriinneG^ssu^^ Mr. Jeffeicpqa jva».a maii^p£<:nio^,c^-
mony, juid, I coul^ introduce ^y self as. a. ^sti^^ngerr and
Mjgould .bev^attend^ to ^^ su^^ jnd ^i^uld ,tf^mmi of
ahallt be.4Bonunufucated in .the.nfixt»chapter^
■ >*■ ''-VNi
'■ t'
rti .
*■
VOL. I,
li
DI8TBICT OF COLUMBIA.
Ottdthe
bed very
koDt; but
, wjbat he
ioober, in
aktterof
AS. aUoge-
%,-mffti of
ffc'^-^-l-
dMF*^ ■■-?^T'-
«* a .t. «^ . .-L .1
2Qti
^^
■;•;
CHAPTER XXXra.
Interview with Mr, Jefferson,
Washington, October 5. in pursuance of the re-
commendation of my friends, I set out, this morning, at
8 o'clock, for the purpose of waiting on Mr. Jefierson. On
my arrival at the president's house, I delivered my ad-
dress to a servant, who in a few minutes returned with an
answer, diat Mr^ Je£krson would be with me presently,
and showed me into an elegant apartment. Mr. Jefferson
ioon entered by an iiiner door, and requesting me to be
seated, sat down himself; and immediately, and very
fmAAff entered into conversation, by asking where I had
landed, and how long I had been in the country. Having
infdrmed him, he remarked that I would probably be tra-
velling to the north^rard ; I replied that I had been to the
noith, and was now travelling to die southward. '* And
how do you like New York?" "Very muchj" ssud I;
^* it is one of the finest sea-ports I have seen, and, I pre-
sume, will always continue to be the first commercial
city in the United States." He observed that he found
that idea generally entertaine^d by strangers; that New
York was a very fine situation, and would unquestionably
continue always to be a great commercial city ; but it ap-
peared to him that Norfolk would probably, in process of
thne, be the greatest sea-port in the United States, New
Orleans perhaps excepted. ^ He pcnnted out the circum-
VOL. I.
2 c
i02
4ii»RAiriL8 iir *hm
stance of the vast confluence of waters^ that constituted
the outlet of the Chesapeak bay, on which Norfolk/is situ-
ated^ and remarked that these rivers were as yet but par-
tiidly settled ; but they were rapidly settling up, and, when
the population wiafull| the quantity'^ surplus produce
would be immense, and Norfolk would probably become
the greatest dep6t in the United States, except New Or-
leans.
'm'Xht conversation next turned upon ^e clitniite atid ^.
^cm ; on which the presideitt remarked, that the country had
11116 sumii^ been remarkably healthy; that no case of
epidemical siokness had come to his knowledge^ some few
pf kiUous fever and feuer and 9gtw ekeeptedj: at the foot df
"die mountains oil Jameis* river^ not &r from ^eve he lived ;
And which country was never knowa tO experience igsf
case9 of the kind beibre. As thk 9ppeai!ed. singulav^^^I
Inquired whether there w»s any way Of Accounling for it
gjp Ifeplifild, that the W£iy he accounted for it y^lSM»:
<* In oniinary sea6on$, there is a sui&biency of WiteK ti>iiCe«p
t^ riy^ns in a ^te of circulation^ and no moi^ ; but thi$
ft^ison therQ tes been ai(»ig 9i|d vety seveiie 4roughtt
^^ch, in ii[^^ places ha&,4ried them up. The water
^ stagnate in poqis, and s^ndis out>a putrid effluvia to
soBAe^difit^ce} which, ;bei|ig lighter than tiie atmosphere^
9^cen4s even s^i^me liitde way up the mountaina, ^ reaches
tfee abo4p«uef thiE^ who thought them^dve^ h^V^tofore
fipee from attack." ..;..:
^iJE was strud^ w^th the force of this retnar^y and applie(}
it to a circumstance jdiajt ha^ cpme un4^r my obs^vatipn
at Wasy^gtpn* * The Papitol HiM ia, ejeyat^ a|H)ye the
river upwi^rda pf 70 feet. Beitween thi&^aud the river theie
is^^ l9>v in?a49W, afeput a jnil^Ja-q^di a!?offii4ing ,5iwth
i <aQ
#
OI8TBICT OF eOMJIIBIA.
1209
natituted
,k is situ-
biit par-
nd, when
produce
y become
New Or.
eand$eA.
mntiy had
lo case of
I some few
the foot df
eiieHvedi
rience t»]t
singular^'I
tOngforit
j; but this
effiuYiato
tsnosphere^
reaches
h«PQtofore
Ind appliei)
l>l?s«^vatipn
laboye th^
jriy^rtheire
\g with
fWimps ifid small shrabbery . In the autumn these swamps
send out an effluvia^ which often afiects the health of those
who live on the hilL I noticed this circumstance, and the
president ilwilarked, that it was a case exactly in point. He
said he had frequently observed from his windows, in the
mfivning, the vapour to rise, and it seemed to have suffi-
dent' buoyancy to carry it to the t(^ of the hiU, and no
further; there it setded, and the inhabitants, coming out
df:1dlei^ warm vo(ims,i breathed this cold contaminated va- .
f6uFii w)neh'faraBg|kt>on agues and other complaints. He
and Jkt hadtfiequently p(»nted out this t(^ the people, an4
argedithemtD drain tlie swamp, but it wns still neglectod*
dthinighithey lii4)>be^des sufiering in their healthy pndba^
b^ expended 'mo^ in doctor's bills than it would tiave
le^.: v^^fittt^ indeed," he continued, ** mankind are ea^
4i(Jcdingi;^idi<lwin>i^opdng iiesdutions to p^vent disease^
811^ it |»'very diffibult to convince theiii v^here they oifig^^
nfiti^'^pQhieukirl^rhwiien' th^^ applied' is the r6>
^ bC phiadlophioal deducdim.'^
The transition from this subject to that of the ydk>W
ftivsr?ir»l«iiind,^ and linftrodtioed k by noticing Paiiie's
Mkym^ subject ' The piesident observed, that it was
die of i the; moat senaiUe perfomuftices on that dkease,
that had edme under liis observation. The remarks wene
qidte {rf^loe^hieal^ and, not being calculated to excite any
paetyifedkigf 'thejr might have a very useful tendency^,
* I had seen this essay of Mr. Psdne in the newspapers, and I
made'menuon of it in the account of my conversation with him^
pEgc1^5V 'It fia^ljiri'die'tifocul^d a cbpy of the essay ; and as it itf the
liifOM ii<f<^gilyle Hccoum that I have fet se^n of the yellow feirer^
Uidbentkelytloarfof «]^rty<^prejodicea» 1- have inserted ijt at full
length in A^|Ap{lf$n^!iixr No. I. . , ^^^
\JM'
m,
^TfHiPfiats "«»*«■
'-r.
^' Me then made a few remarks on the nature of the yellow
fever itself. He observed, that it evidently aroie from
breathing impure air, and impure air may be either gene-
mted m the country or imported. A case had come un.
der his observation where it was imported. A vessel ar-
rived at Norfolk, and the air in her hold was so pestilen.
tial,' that eveiy person who went into it was affected) and
some of them died; but, on the discovery being niade,
the vessel was purified, and the fever did not spread. Thb
'#&s a local circumstance, he observed; and there may be
>Diiany othet^» which are pernicious ds fir as Uneff go^ ttid
i^tfe should be taken to prevent them. But a shipi:GaD
Dever inkport a sufficient quantity of >impufe air to pollule
a ivhole dty, if that city be otherwise 'lKaithy,^«nd,thfiffe^
•fere, the origin of the yellow fever^ onion eadended seok^
must be bought for in an impure akv general^ from filth
eoDeeted in and about gn*at cities; and it waavery e3lip^
dient that this view of the subject should be cniocced^ in
order to induce mankind to attend to ime of the^most iin>
^po^lant cohcems in life-Msleanliness.. Hu r < ^ •
'^ I tbok notice of the bad state of the road between Bal-
timore and Waahihgton, and expressed my^ surprise that
it should remain in this state, so near the capifal of the
United' States. The president observedv that the idhovil
0f the seat of government was a recent measure^ and ll^
co^try was so extensive^ that it would neekssidrSy be a
considerable time before good roods could be made in all
directions, but as it was a most important aubject, it
would be attended to as fastt as circumstances woidd per-
mit; and the road to Baltimore, being the great thorough*
•fare"t6'^ northern states, would probably be one of the
first that would undergo a thorough repair^ He then in-
likely t
possible
was ur|
but thai
the opei
and beii
whig pi
DiaraioT op Columbia.^
205
€ydkm
ise from
er gene-
onte un.
ireasdar.
pestUen-
;ted) and
ig iiiade,
ad. TKi
l^go^iand
topoUute
fitmifiltli
liioeced^in
I BiQBt im*
r
Bal.
that
of the
idhovil
be a
in all
ibject, it
rodd per-
tligrough-
jone of the
le then in-
foHniKl me, that both this subject and that of internal na-
vigatioii by canals, were under consideration at the present
time, upon a very extended scale, and probably a report
would soon be^ published relative to them ; and he had
litde doubt, but that in less than 20 years, turnpike roads
would be general throughout the country ; and a chain of
canals Ivduld probably be cut, which would complete an
inland" navigation from Massachusetts to Georgia; and
anoAi^? to eonnebt die eastern with the western waters,^^
« ' I:^<remarked that these would be most important lino'
prot^ements, and would greatly &cilitate intefnal inter-*
caamti and as to manufactures, I pi^esimied Hwovld long
continue to be the policy of the oouxitry to import them,
lie rephed, that diis^ like other braiiciieii, would of course
fiitA itB^leyd, and would depend ujMOit the gei^us of the
^pdofkt^ but it" was astonishing, ^^fxrogress that had been
made in raanui&ctures of late years* It would hardfyfale
believed, he siud, by strangers, but he had it on the best
authority, that the manufactures of Philadelphia were
greater in value annually^ than were those of Birnung^iam
20 years ago; and he had no doubt but that manufiictures,
of articles of the >£rst necessity, would increaac^^ until ttiiey
became quite general through the countiy. ^r^ »
V As ?the non^importation act was then in dependence, I
was naton^y anxious to ascertain, whether matters were
likely to be adjusted with Britain, and, as modesdy as
possible, endeavoured to turn the conversion that way. I
was urged to this by two considerations. I was not sure
but that part of our M importation would come under
the operation of the non-imporation act, if it took place ;
and being fully satisfied of the friendly disposition of the
whig party in Britsdn towards America, I would gladly
"
.&- ■
too D|9W^V OV CQiAmmUd ^
Ime availed myieif of an opportunity of cxpreaaing that
opinion to t^e president But on thia subject Mr. jeiTer-
son was, of course, reserved ; though, from the feW( obser-
vations he made, I concluded that matters would ultimately
be amicably adjuat^ , I was highly gratified by the ex-
pression of his opinion, on the character of my great
favourite statesman Mr. Fox. Accounts had that mom-
ing reached Washington, that Mr. Fox was in the last
stage of his illness^rnl noticed the ciroumatance* *' Poor
man," said-Mr. Jefierson, "I fear by tUa time he.iano
more, and^bia loaa. wiU^be severely £bU by his countiy-^
he 19 a m^ oCthf most liberal and ^enlightened poli#y««
a ^i^ tfii^ coun|iy» and to the humari race."
. A gentleman then <calle4 upon bimi'l ^believe geeeivl
£«ton,.and I took fnyrleaye> highly pleaand with thi9 afia^
bitityij intelligt»i«e» and good aensey oftba FfAsid^ntof
iniiitiitiiii'iimii'i iiiiiiiiiidyiiKiiiifi iw. j
> »•/
6^.
I
W^^- ii ' ^i^MK? -^iCi^i* t •^. , V .
••'^lijai/iiv:..;
J^ ■
h'.
lj > .
;■■*
AttTftler or coLVHiiiA.
309
thit
dTer-
»bser-
lately
t ex-
great
morn*
e last
•Poor
uiftno
Iwy—
^ of
^1^^ :.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
'Utmii 1,1111 ,»3
/J'
*i\!'
♦,\4'
District of Columbia,
HTHIS district is 10 miles square, and was ceded to the
Unit^ States by the states of Vh-ginia and Maryland ;
and in the year 1800 became the seat of the gjeneral go-
vernment ' It is in north latitude 38* 54^, and the Ameri-
can geographers hare adopted it as the first meridian of
longitude, which I have followed in itiy descriptions of
the states, so as the reader may know at a glance how far ;
they are remored from the t^itol. The face of the
country around it has been noticed. The soil appears
poor and sandy. The climate is the same as the middle
district of Maiyland, and, judgmg from the countenances
of the people, I should infer it is not very healthy. It is
high and diy ; but the whole flat countiy of Virginia and
North Carolina lies to the south of it ; and, when a south
wind ^ blows, it must waft a giteat deal of marsh efRuvia
aldog with it, of which the people in this district will
receive a full share.
The district lies on both udes of the Potomac river,
and is' divided into two counties, one on tJth sf de. The
population, when I was there, was supposed to be about
17,000, including those of Georgetown and Alexandria ;
and it was rapidly encreasung.
The general improv^nents in diis district have been .•
already noticed. Besides the settlements scattered over
W9
914TRI0T OF COLUNBU.
the ^Strict, it contains two principal towns and the capi.
tal» Of these, Georgetown has been already mentioned;
and as I shall have occasion to notice Alexandria in a sub-
sequent article, it only remains here to give a general ac.
' count of the federal city.
*-^ ^ WASHINGTON
"i Is situated in the centre of the district of Columbia, and
is bounded on the south-east by the eastern branch of the
'Potomac river^ tO' the south-west by the western branch, to
the north-west by Bock creek, and to the north-east by the
Qpm country. Its extreme length from north-west to
«outh*eest is a little more than four miles and a half, and
its medium breadth Jrom north-east to south-west about
;^two miles and a half, being nearly the dimcnsbnsof the
city of London, including Westminster and Southwark*
An elegant plan of this city has been published, on wMch
I counted 37 squares^ 17 grand avenues, named after the
diierent states, and 103 streets crossing one another at
right angles, and running the whole length and breadth of
the city. On this plan I find the following observations.
** The grand avenues, and sUch streets as lead immedi-
ately to public pkices, are from 130 to 160 feet wide, and
may be conveniently divided into foot- ways, walks of trees,
. and a carriage-way. The otlier streets are from 90 to 110
feet wide.
" In order to execute this plan, Mr. EUicott drew a true
meridional line by celestial observation, which passes
f through the area intended for the capitol; this line he
crossed by another, due east and west, which passes
1>ISiV|UOT OF COLUMBIA.
209^:
the capi-
ntioiied;
in a sub-
»ieral ac-
mbia, and
ich of the
branch, to
ast by the
th-\V!est to
I half, and
fvest about
ions of the
ithwarki
,onwluch
after the
another at
breadth of
Ltidns.
immedi-
wide, and
8 of trees,
90 to 110
>watrue
[ch passes
line he
sh passes
through the same area. These lines were acciuatdy
measured, amd made the basis on which the whole plan
was executed. He ran all the lines by a transit instru«
ment, and determined the acute angles by actual measure-
ment, and left nothing to the uncertainty of the compass. ^'
*^ The positions for the different edifices, and for t!ie se-
veral, squates or •^:i<.?.z of different shapes, as they are laid
down, were first determined on the most advantageous
ground, commanding tlie most extensive prospects, and
t^ bejtte^^^sceptible of sudh improvements as either use
or omanoent may hereafter call for*
" Lji^es or avenues of direct communication have been
devised tp conp^ect the sesparate and most, distant objects.'
Yyitl\ .ti^e prmcipal, and to preserve thra^gh the whole ^
i^iproQity of sight, at the same time. Attention has been
paid to the passing of these leading avenues over the most
favourable ground % prospect and convenience*
^^Nqrth and south lines, intersected by others running,
due east and west, make the distribution of the city into
streets, square^, &c.; and those lines have been so com*
bined ass to meet at certain given points witli those diver-*
gent ayenues,, so as to form on the spaces * fu^t determin-
ed' the different squares or areas."
There are three creeks delineated on the plan, above the
city, on which r find the following observations.
"The perpendicular height of Tiber creek above the
level of the tide in said creek, is 236 feet 7 inches. The
\vater of this creek may be conveyed on the liigh ground
where the Capitol i^tands, and after watering that part of
city, may be (destined to ot^er useful purposes. The per-
pendicular height of the ground where the Capitol i& tc)
stand is above the dde of Tiber creek 78 feet.
VOL. I.
2 J5
2i&
fRAvisLS m ram
" The perpendicular^ height of the n est branch above
tlfe tid^ in Tiber creek, is 115 feet 7 inches.
*^* The water of Reedy creek, and that of the Tiber, may
be conveyed to the president** house."
A most etegant plan indf^, and a very animated de-
scfiption. tt only wants 40,000 elegant buildings, and a
cori^sponding population, to constitute tlie American capi.
td one of the handsomest cities iti the ivotldl However,
it iff td be recollected that every thing must have a begin-
ning, and the time was when London was m0.
' The city now probably contains about 700 houses, and
50D0 inhabitants. The buildings are aH pf brick, three
-dtbi'i^s high, and agreeable to a given plan^ 'J^ere are
iaatt^ scatterihg huts and wooden buildings throughout
<^ dfStHct, but tiiey are obly temporary. Thc>.greater
'^art T>f the public buildings have b^n already noticed.
There are, besides, two or three churches^ three market-
£K)t»esj and a jail. The inaikets are tc^rably well sup-
j)Hed with provisions, but ever}) article is dear; the prices
may be reckoned one-third higher than at Philadelphia; a
ciircumaMce that wiQ probably operate against t^^pro-
gress of population. > . ^^
The principal manu&olHtes are tito^ calculated for do*
mestib con^mption, boots, shoes, hats, &c. There is a
considerable retail trade, but very little of any other; the
shipping trade it carried on at Alexandria, and the inland
ti^e at Georgetown,
The inhabitants are a collection from all quarters of the
titiion, and there are many foreigners among them. They
Vikt reputed to be orderly and correct in their m<a^s, and
have bent their attenti6n very much to the subjects of edu-
cation and internal improvement.
DISTBICT OF OOLUltBIA.
211
above
r,inay
ses, and
k, three
here are
x>ughcmt
*^ greater
noticed,
^^tiarfeat-
svrell sup-
he prices
elphia; a
the pro-
;d for do-
here is a
■ther; the
he inland
The district of Columbiat west of the Potomac, is sub-
ject to the laws of Virginia, and east of the river, to those
of Maryland; but the whole is under the special direction
of the government of the United States, and the internal
police is managed by a corporation, of which the president
of the United States appoints the mayor. The other mem-
bers are elected by the people.
There is a circuit court of the United States within the
district, consisting of a chief judge and two assistants, and
^y hold four sessions annually.
A lew general remarks shall dose this chapter, and my
account of the capital of the United States.
Having, in the course of my travels, heard a great many
conflicting opmions about British influence and French
influence,^ and federalism and democracy, and die suppos-
ed enmity of the American government to Britain and
British trade; and of a partiality far the French and Bona-
parte; I determined to take no share in the argument, but
to hear all the eyidence on both sides, as Jtj;^)(| in my
w^, and to judge for myself.
The result of this judgment I shall WJW communicate.
I was satisfied, from all that 1 had seen ^d heard, that
there is bonajide British influence in ^ country, of a very
powerful nature, great in extent, and arismg from very ob-
vious causes. The principal of these are the identity of
kinguage, the similitude of manno^ and habits, and the
extensive commerce between the United States and Bri-
tain. To proye the ii^uence arising fix>m these, it is un-
necessary to go beyond my own person. I landed in Ame-
rica a stranger. I travelled through die countiy, associ-
ating every where freely widi the people. I was uni-
formly remved 9& a fri^* J waited on the chief ma*.
212
^ l^AYElS IN THE
gistitte of Arnica altogether in an iin|[irenieditdted man*
ner. I sent up my address as* ** a native 6f-iBritam." His
conduct and conversation have been fai^ifiilly recbrded in
the preceding chapter, and the public can judge of it.
Did it look like prejudice againist Brttaiti or British pec
pief— ^I sitty no.
In regard to French influence, it stands upon a fixiting
cxactl)^ the reverse. The natives of France have a differ-
ent language, and different manners and habits. When
they ariive in this couhtiy, they have a language to learn;
they never can learn to speak it with the fluency of a na-
tive; and th^liave few ideas in common^ sa that there
really is little whereon to ground a free interchange of sen-
timents and of friendship. Accordingly it is found, that
&e French natives in the country are generally a quiet,
peaceable people, who associate mosdy among themselves,
and pay little or no attention to politics, or to public con-
cerns. I cannot illustrate this subject better than by a
quotation from M* Talle3rrand. He ^ had travelled exten.
sively in the United States, and had paid very close atten-
tion to the manners of the people. He closes a series of
observations with this sentiment. '- In all my travels
through the country, I never saw an Englishman that was
not treated as a native; I never saw a Frenchman that was
not treated as a stranger."
SI* Passing over mere party-bickerings, which I leave with
a great deal of pleasure to the newspapers, I shall here re-
markj that it appeared to me, there was every disposition
to have m anucsdsle adjustment of all differences with
Britain, and to cultivate a friendly intercourse to every ex-
tent that the natives nilitually wished, or that their wants
ftii^ht call for ; and as to partiality for Bonaparte and the
Fren
ed,t]
ened
tweei
,dispo
not a
loss G
a Gre
valual
ced t<
numb
black
presse
virtue
the go
the H]
with tl
Intl
^ Alt
Ale
tomac,
It is lai
ing on<
airy. J
habitant
ly incK
and jai]
considei
inhabita
flour and
%ia,
was
DI8TBICT OF COLUMBIA.
^13
n." His
;0f dcd in
»e of it.
tish peo-
a iboting
e a differ-
I. When
! tbleam;
y of a na-
that there
ige of sen-
bund, that
[y a quiet,
hcmselves,
mblic' con.
thain by a
lied exten.
ilose atten-
a series of
ij travels
that was
that was
French, it was my sincere opinion, very deliberately form-
ed, that ther^^vas none. Hence my opinion was strength-
ened as to the probability of a good understanding be-
tween the two countries; for I was satisfied of the friendly
.disposition of the British ministry, i knew that they did
not all view America in the same light, and I dreaded the
loss of Mr* Fox ; but while a Grerwille, an Erskine, and
a Grey, rem^dned in the cabinet, I was convinced that the
valuable trade to the United States would not be sacrifi.
ced to a crooked policy^ nor to gratify the avarice of a
number of unprincipled speculators. I saw, indeed, a
black cloud in the rear. A most powerful toiy faction
pressed upoh die national councils, and almost browbeat
virtue out of counteniance ; and this faction was strong in
the good- wiir of the court. But, to counterbalance this,
the HEIR APPARENT, THE PRINCE OF WaLES, WaS
with the whig party, and I hoped for the best.
In the afternoon I took my departure, in a ferry-boat, "
^ Alexandria, wluch I reached at 6 o'clock.
Alexandria is atuated on the west bank of the Po-
tomac, in the south-east comer of the district of Columbia.
It is laid out on the plan of Philadelphia^ the streets cross-
ing one another at right angles, and they are broad and
airy. It qontained, by the census of 1800, 4096 fi^ee in-
habitants, and 875 slaves ; the population has since great-
ly increased. The public buildings are a court-house
and jail, a bank, and an epi^opal church. I observed
considerable shipping in the river, and learned that the
inhabitants have a pretty extensive trade, principally in
flour and tobacco, *
The weather, during my stay iri the district of Colum-
Ibia, was clear and very "mrm ; and from the observations*
^^1
214
TUAVXUi IN
I made, I was satisfied that there must be ^./jnatarial dif.
ierence of clunate between this place and P^addphia, the
great change hi^pening somewhere near the Pa^psco
river, agreeably to the opinion of Vokiey.
On applying at the mail 8t^;e-ofiice, I found there
were 10 plaees engaged, so that it was with some difficulty
I could get aecommodated ; but they agreed to squeeze
me amongst the number ; and J retired to bed, resolved
to sleep as fast a^ possible, with a view of getting up at 4
o'clock in the morning, the hour at which I was toM the
stage would set out.
*.■■
kr
mliWiirii
•nv,r tt*. "Wfe
MoK
Ito6k]
tie befo]
miles, t
last. F
only rer
soil tolei
After
quainted
mentionc
show the
the place
going to
were goi
miles; G
one to ]
different
going to
Ajs we
were to b
fice-bedre
president ;
being vio
to the
«
yiRomiA.
215
da, the
r(. . if'
- J
'\0i--.
Hit "
i^V '^:U?J*'-
OftAFTEft XXrV.
„ ' ' ' " ' ' ' ' ' -
Alexandrtay-^ilichmondy — Petersburg.
Monday, October 6th, 18G6, at half past 4 o'clock,
i took my place in the stage, and ive left Alexandria a lit-
tle before 5. We travelled by a pretty rough roacJ, 17
miles, to Occoquhan creek, where we stopped for break-
&st Part of our journey being before day-light, I could
only remark that the country appeared uneven, and the
soil tolerably good.
After breakfast, the company began to get a little ac-
quainted with each other, and to exchange sentiments. I
mentioned before that we were 11 in number, and it will
show the nature of travelling in this country, to mention
the places of destinati6n. Three of the passengers were
going to Richmond, in Virginia, 126 miles distant ; two
were going to Columbia, in South Carolina, distant 511
miles; one to Augusta, in Georj^, distant 596 miles;
one to Fayetteville, North Carolina, 351 miles; three to
different places in the interior of the country; and I was
going to Savannah, in Georgia, distant 653 miles.
Ajs we constituted a little republic, and several of us
were to be many days together, we proceeded to elect of-
fice-bearers. The gentleman fiom Fayetteville was chosen
president ; the company conferred on me the honour of
being vice-president; and thus or^nized we proceeded
to the " order of the dav."
216
TKAV«L£i IK
Our president, who was called captain, by which title
I shall hereafter denominate him, was an excellent tmvd.
ling companion. He si^ a good song ; told » good stc
ly; said was, withal, very fiicetious, and abounded in
mirth, humour, ai^ jollity.
He had not long taken the chair, when, with the per.
mission of the company,. he sung ahumorous sons', which
put us aU m good spuits. He then proposed that each man
in his turn should, M^hen called on, by the president^ ^ga
song, tell a story, or pay five cents; which being unanimous^
ly agreed to^was immediately carried intO' executipn, and
called forth a wonderful degree of merriment and good-
humour. I found myself a little at a loss, as I did not
wish to part with my cents, and J had nothing but Scots
storks and Scots songs; but I soon found that the^e were
highly satis&ctory,^ and that the name of Robert JBurns was
as well known, and as. highly esteemedlin Virginia, as in
Ajrshire... ^;.n..;.,v -,.... ....
. ,Qur captain was both a son of Neptune and a son of
Mars ; and could adapt the technical language of these
professions to the different movements of the stage, with
remarkable facility. When the coach heeled to one side,
he \vould call out, *' to the right a^d 1^, and cover your
danks-r-whiz ;" and when we passed a stream by a ford,
he would sing out, ** by the deep nine," accompanied with
all the attitudes of heaving the lead. I'he day was plear,
pleasant, and healthy; and, in this strain of merriment
and good*humour, we prosecuted our journey nmch to
our satis&ction.
From where we breakfasted, we travelled through a
hilly country, and but partially cultivated, to Dun^fries^
a small tbivn containii^g about ,399 inhabitants, court-
hoas
ahill
milef
Fi
ofRs
crossi
300 Ji
cipal*^
my, c
trade;j
The
hyVm
He^c
piaoe/i
Chesap
where
Fmferi
ncksbu
tfarougl
Bowling
above V
about 8
forms 1
TOmile
river, w
that desc
ver. T]
rfversi'iw
VOL.
TmOIHIA;
217
ich title
t travel,
oodsto-
nded \n
the per-
gr which
^achmaii
at^siinga
aniiQous.
itipn, and
nd good-
L did not
but Scots
tihe^were
^rnswas
;inia, as in
d a son of
J of these
I, with
one ^de,
^ver your
by a ford,
iedwith
was plear,
|merriment
l^iich to
[through a
Its, court-
house^ jail, &c. ; and, from thence, we passed on through
a hilly country, but more improved, to Fredericksburg, 25
miles, where we stqjped for the night.
Freoer^cxsburc is situated on the south-west side
of Rappahannock river. It is regularly laid out, the streets
crossing one another at right angles, and consists of about
300 hou8<^s, containing about 1600 inhabitants. The prin-
cipal ^public buildings are an episcopal church, an acade*
my, ^court^houte, andjaiK It carries on a considerable
trade;^ principally in flour and tobacco.
The Rappahannock river rises in the Blue Mountains,
by two considerable streams, called Rapid Ann river and
Hec^eman river ; which unite about 12 miles above this
place, and, running k south-east Course, fidls into the
Chesapeak bay about 00 miles below Fredericksburg,
where it is abotit thred miles broad. It is navigable to
Fredericksburg, wherd it has two fethoms water*.
Qn Tuesday, the 7th October, W6 started from Frede-
licksbui^, at 1 o'clock in the morning, and travelled
through an uneven country, and pretty well cultivated, to
Bowling*Greenv 22 miles; and a few miles further, we
passed Maitapony river. This river rises about 20 miles
above where we crossed it, and runs a south-east course,
about 80 ihil^ when it joins the Pamunky rivef , and
focms ForAr river. It is navigable to Downer's bridge,
70 miles above its mouthf. About 15 miles from this
river, we travelled through a country nearly similar to
that described^ but the soil rather sandy, to Pfl;mfm% ri-
ver. , lltts river is foiled by the north and south Anna
rivers^' which rise in the north'-west, hbout 50 or 60 miles
f
• Jefferson's Ncttes on Virguiia.
VOL. I. 2 E
t Ibid.
218
TBJlVBLt IN
distant, and form a junction about 15 miles above where
we croBsed. From thence it ^holds a south««a8t coune,
but with many windings, about 50 miles, whei^it forms
the junction with Mattapony river aforesaid. It is naviga-
ble for boats about 40 miles above where we crossed it
YoiK RiviJt is omiposed of these two rivers, and widen-
ing to a considerable extent, it pasaes into the Chesape a k
bay, by a channel of about three miles. Yorktown is situ,
ated 12 miles up this river, and is the best harbour in the
state for vessels of the. largest size. ** The river narrows
to the width of a mile at York, and is contained within
very hig^ banks, close under which vessels mayfride. It
hdds four fethoms water at high tide for 25 nuks«bove
York, where the river b a mile and a half wide, and the
channel only 75 fethoms. At the conflueape of the Pa.
munky and Mattapony it is reduced to three fiithonu
deep.**' York is remarkable as being^ the place jrheve
iht contest with Britain was decided by the capture of
lord Comwallis.
After crossing this river we passed Hanover courthouse,
and the road proceeds through a country neariy rimUar to
thatalready described, 24miles^ to Richmond, the ca^itolof
Virginia, whi^ we reached to dinner. Inour vatyme passed
Falling creek, a brancKof James river,.after which the coun-
try improves, and is handsomely settled. The day was
very clear, and we had at one place a view of the South-
^west Mountains -. ; > ; <i
4 jRiGBMONn is handsomely situated on James river, im.
mediatdy below the fells. It is a large elegantcity^ con.
sisling of more than 1000 houaes,^ and contains about 8000
:feKl|fM>:^^.^ J«ffi*Wm**' N0t«».
'h*''W
»**>••«•
Vv
s-k-
.^it^
▼IBOIKIAi
919
ifihibitaiits*^ The ttne-houae stands on an eminence^
mA 2r oomiderad the handsomest buildup in the slate,
haring' sfiadous apartments for the meeting; of the legisla-
ture, and eommodions rooms for the trannction of tl^e
pttUie basiness of the state* The odier public buildings
are the court-houae^ jail, and theatre, two places for pub-
lie urorship, a fteenMsoii's hall, and diree t)obacco ware*
houseSk Richmond is situated in a fertile healthy coun-
try, and is well supplied with provisions; and it is flou-
ttehhtg in manufactures and commerce. There is an
MAoary in die neighbourhood^ said to be the best in the
United States. The city is remariuibly well situated for
fflill-seets ; some of the finest flour-miUs in the state have
blely^been erected, and the quantity of flour mami&ctured
MMluaUy is immense. There, are also roiling and slitting-
siitts^ oU-mitts, and several others; and sevend extensive
di8tillerie»>and breweries. Richmond carries on a consi-
derable trade, principally in tobacco and flour, with many
places of the United States, particularly NewiYork, which
ilk return supplies it with dry-goods and groceries. The
inhabitants here, lUce those in the sea-ports, are mostly
dressed in British manuftctures, and are very gay. They
look remarkably well, and the ladies, of whom we only had
t glanoe as we passed through the city, appeared very
handsome.
Some nails in my portmanteau having given way, I
carried it to a saddler to get it repedred ; and on my re-
turn to the tavern^ I found a native of Perth, ta whom I
had sent a messier waiting for me; and what with oon^
versatioR about the place oi our nativi^, the importunity
By the census of 1810, the numbsr is 9735.
sao
TBAVBLS IN
of thr ■UgC'drivcr, and the humourof our merry caplaiiit
I was almost ^lort sMpt of a diniicar. Having finished my
repast as nqudly as 1 could, I took my place iiv the stagey
and we set out for Petersbuig. '
Several of the passengers had left us at Richmond;
but as we tool^ up two or three gentlemen who were re*
turning from a horse-race, the stage waft stillrfuU; and we
continued our regulations, which ouc new.. Jndmheraiasr
sented to with great cordiality. , : i \ , hi . ri i
^ On Icaviuf^ the city, we passed James River by a long
wooden bridge, at which each of the passengers had to
pay toll, a circumstance Inever saw bef<)re, it being com*
mon to lay the toU on the carriage only. The ^enery at
this place was very beautiful. / f
James RivfiR is one of the most important in the state
of Virginia. It rises near the Allegany Mountains, nearly
200 miles west from. Richmond*, and^ pursuing a oourafc
to the eastward, runs through all the other chains^ passes
Richmond, and receives the waters of the Appomatnz
about 25 miles below that city. < From thence iti exhibits
a curious appearance, widening and contracting alteruately,
andy by a crooked passage .of about . 70 mile8f< falls into
ChesapeakBay 15 miles to the westward of Cape Henry;
its whole length, including^ its windings, i^eing upwards
300 miles. The principal tributary streams to. thb river
are the Rivatfnah^ on which is Monticelloj the seat of pre-
sident Jefferson, the Appomatox, the Chickahomany, the
NansenoLond, and the Elizabeth, on which last is Norfolk.
f^^The whole, of Elizabeth River is a harbour, and would
contain upwards of 300 ships.. The channel is from 150
to 200 fathom wide, and, at flood tide, affords 18 feet wa-
ter to Norfolk. The Nansemond, is navigable to Sleepy
rViftcnviA'.
321
dmy
stage,
nond;
arc re.
an a»-
along
had to
1^ com*
nery at
,. ■ ■'
he state
linearly
t eourifc
K>inatox
exhibits
aruately,
lUa into
Henry;
wards
is river
of pre-
, the
[arfolk.
would
)m 150
feet wa-
Sleepy
Hole Ibryends^ 350 lofis; to Sullblk for thole oTlOO
torn ; and to Milncr's for thoae of 25v Chiikahommy hai
at Ht notith a bar, on which is only 13 feet water at eom-
mon flood tide. Vessels peasing thatt may g;6'8 mik^s up
the river } those of 10 feet water may go 4 mile^'futther ;
and those of 6 tons burden 20 miletr Airther. The Riv^.
larii is navigable for cilnoes and batteatux 22 miles, to the
South-west Mountains, and may be easily opened to navi-
gation through these mountains to its fork above ' Chaih-
kittesviHe*."
*^ James River itself affords harbour for vessels of any
size in Hampton Road, but not in safety through the
winter", and there is navigable water for thcfm as far as
Mulberry Island. A 40 gun ship goes to Jailriestowh,
and, lightening 'herself ^ may pass to Harrison's Bar, on
which there i^ only 15 feet water. Vessels of 250 tons
mi^ go to Warwick ; those of 125 go to Rocket's, a mile
bdow Richmond; from thence is fibout 7 feet water to
Richmond; md about the centre of the bwh,'4i feet,
wbsre the navigation i^' interrupted bf fall$^ which, in a
course of 6 miles, descend about 80 feet perpendicular.
Above these^ it is resumed in canoes and' bdtteaux, and is
prosecuted safely to within 10 miles of the Blue Ridge ;
and even through the Ridge a ton weight has been brought ;
and the expence would not be grdat, when tompared with
its objects^ to open a tolerable navigation up Jackson's
River and Carpenter's Creek, to within 25 miles of How-
ard's Credc of Greenbriar, both of which have then water
aiiough .to float vessels into the Great Kanhaway. In
some future state of population, I think it possible that its
* Jeffersdn*8 Notes.
-,-,?«@rv
fMrriiinr
^&vi|iiiM i^y'Sso Ik ihfldci t6 itttx^oigk'Witlf^likt of the
PotomaC) and, through that,' to tommumcate by a short
piMtag^ ^ the Ohio*:** '
^"^A Icom^i^'has bdlen inccirporated by the sitate for im.
the havig^bri 'of tMs^ river ^n^'kc^^ of
llO,00(!rdoirais, Of which" th^ state btimi 50,000; and they
ai^ b<^bifd b^ t!il^' charter to remove all obstirdoidons, so'as
there may never be less than 12 inches of nt^ter over all
tlie sBuoals fi^m the upj^ end of the lower faHs to Pitrtton*
borough, ill the iiiid^e of the moiintliins, and distant iront
iUciimbild upWaMs of'^ m^^ Th^ colhpahy have
p6secbte(i ^e bu^iiiess inth a kuddble iseal, inid have
ex[xihded bpibrds of 1860,000 dolh^ npoti'it. A'cana!
is (^rai^'fn^m ilie river at tbe upper end'of the MIk- and
proceeds 200 yards, when it is lowered 34 feet, Ijy 3
locfe; ahdagaitilehters the river. Frotti tliehtJte the iwvi-
gation is pdr^ f6r 3 miksi, Mien ^oliher tilAial'cbnimeiu
ces, aiul runs 3j ^les'to a bason at RidhM«id, iitlMt die
navigation'^ie^&sites. It Was cbtvtempilated hf th^ (ikf.
iei^to (lldhtiiiue the'ckn^ tb the tide V^alct^ but thef jfto is
ibrdk''piese^;su^p^^.' • '■ '" ^-^^^^^sf^^^vji- .,,,*v....v
and is 80 feet aboveiii^-Water. Ftblrii ^ tii^^nd of
the g^t falls t6 tie basin the diMte is 6f miled, and
the descCM 4S feet ; iri^itig ih all 128 feet descent in 8
* The navigation of thc! river from above the fiiHs to its
ex^nut]^ kmbfig thrm^^ lis considered bett^ than
that of any of flie other Atlantic rivers ; and it irtay be ob-
ser veil that (fdai is ibiliid here \n great abiihdance, a cir^
CUDII
tide V
Frc
where
see bj^
the |dq
an4n€
^> ■
to.
maybe
has en
and foii
cea^^
andin^l
^W, a
slaves.
oflrisb
manners
n
worship,
The
arenumi
It was
weleame
morning.
• Jefferaoh's ftdtcs.
stof th6
)f a short
.*" ■'■ ■
t for im.
^pitail of
uidthey
onS) so'as
r over all
toPatton.
stdntfroiA
pahf have
^have
A'tanal
; fUte, and
feet, l)y 3
fetheiwvi-
^ thtf dhit-
thfif {Aan is
RichAiiind,
jpartJftdof
mBc^, and
iscerit in 8
cumtteQce/iirhi^^ Qccure. no where d^m the viciiuty of
tid^ wat^^ in the y^itjited States.
From Richmond we travelled 25 iniles to Peterst>urg^
\vher& Wf,9to[i|i!^4^ the night The.cpuntryr I could
see t>ut jwur|iaUy,^^ ,>ve passed ii, corsi4j^|j^^c part of it ii|
the jdiirk. We. crossed. several small streams in our way,
an4 Jnej»r Petersburg ihi^ Appamattox river before allude^
to- .:.. <■;, ■ ,*i
Tim liyeic rises near the moimtains, and is in length up-
war^.f^ 100, inyUes tQ its junction with James river. ** It
may be paylgated as far as Broadway's by any vessel which
has cr^)69ed JH^rrison's bar, on James river. It keeps ei^t
or|en $set water a mile or two higher up to Fisher's bar,
and four feet on that^ and vipwards, where all navigation
ceases*."
P^TjBlt^ll U.i0 i^^tuated on the afonesaid river, imm^.;;
(^y |;]|^QW d)^iaU^^^ ^ndjs a place of consid^bl^ wealth
and imp9rt{^;i^ey carrying on a great trade in tobacco and
flour, a considerable, portion of which is wiUi New York.
The populationv in Isop, was> 2Q34 free pepple, and 1481
slayes. The population, is said to be cpmposc^d principally
of irisb p^^e, and they are distinguished f^ fi^ liberal
mannors, and high-spirited patriotism.
The principal public builduigs are, two plapes for pubUq
worshiqp* a court-house, jail, and freemason's hall.
The market is well supplied with provisions; and there
are numerous mills in and about the town.
ult was .past 11 o'clock at night before we arrived^ and
we learned that the stage was to set out at one o'clpck next
morning. We conddered it therefore entirely useless to
*. Jefferson's Notes.
sm
TIj^Ay^liB IN
go4P i^, and the ci^ptain carr]e4 nie to see some gentle-
mePc of his acquaintance. There weie six or, eight of
fbeiii, aU ligreeat^le young men, most of them irishmen ;
an4 the/ captain, jb^ing intimately acquainted with them \vas
i^elcome^ F^thllQ^CJIi^^^^ and I wascordiaUy Ijaken
by the handas hisiriend, for whom be was (leased ^toex»
f^Tpss^ a particular regard* Tb^y had a violin^ in the r^,
whiph was.imipediately adjusted to the tune of the Thistle
i0td t^, Shfwtrock% aaxd we. had a most hannonious«con.
cert of jig^, wd strathspeySy whjle Yqnkee Doodle was, not
fbiigqtten^, l^he song, the sentiment, and thetoast follow*
ed. ** An age could i(iot have made us better acquainted,"
^dl we^ unitf^d in ppinion> that tbere was^ no country on the
face of the earth like this, where people of all nations^ kin-
dreds, tongues, and, languages, could with sucb haj^y &•
c^i^ n>eet and harmonize in the spirit of unity, and in the
bond of pe^^e, " 3ut pleasures ^re Bke poppies spcead."
"^e were in the full exercise and enjoyment of thes^ sen-
timents when we were called away to take our places in
the stage, and I left this litd^ liberal circle with sentinients
of friendly regard. -
Octobqr 8, at one o'clock, we left Petersbuirg. At thb
early hour we could see nothing, bat we Jelt that the coun-
try M'as hilly, and the road very rough. By the time the
day (k^^ed upon us we had ^veiled aboul 20 miles, and
the country appeared pretty fertile; we saw tnany flourish-
ing fields of tobacco, but, in consequence of the long and
severe drought, the country exhibited a parched appear-
ance.
* The reader will not find this aif in any of thei modern English
collections.
■Vx7*'S!Sp »«^t^■■i JCSB-/"*^' ■'1*.'i''~-'
VIBGlKlJki
i325
gOitle.
light of
shmen ;
ly tjaken
eThisUe
ousicon-
> wdB not
St foUow*
uamted;'
37^^ op the
ions, Idn-
happyfii-
uidinthe
sspcead."
thes^ sen-
places in
LtiQie^ts
At $3 miles fix>m Petersburg we passed Ab/f away river^
by a wooden bridge. This river rises about 50 miles
above where we crossed it, and running a south-east course,
above 100 roiles,^ it forms a junction with the Meherrin
river, in .North Carolina, and^ thro^ghtthe medium of the
Chowan river^ falls into Albemarle sound.
At ^3^^ miles flnom the Nottaway river we drossed the
Meherrin. The latter part of the distance, the country
was much improved, and the road good. We nowiodSl-
sionally saw some cn^ of cotton, but the princ^ pro-
duce was tobacco and com. ' The Mehenm river rises
about 60 miles above where we cipssed it,and running 60
miles more, in a south-east directkH), it forms a junction
with the Nottaway, before mentioned^; -fjfi - ^^ }> ^ ;; '^
About 12 miles beyond this^ l^st mentioned river, yve
passed the North Carolina tiney and here i pause to take H'
view of, the gi^eat and: importaiat ; state of Virgima^
f » • ;
vol. t.
2 t
t.>.
I'.f ^'
ifiifVMil
im
^'tma^M
OHAFTER XXXVI.
< -,
Virginia.
SfiFORE 1 prbceed to ^ve « genatil account of this
iMate, I may notir^, that a most important service has been
tendered to its geogra^y, by the pubfication of the Notes
of Mr. Jefeson; a iirork replete widi valuable information,
Itftd Exhibiting m evety p{^ the marics of a vigorous in-
tellect and a philosophic ftund. This work may be justly
Cohsidiered as the basii^j^ die geography of the state of
Vir^ia ; and though, from the progressive nature cS the
subject, it does not now Conttun the necessaiy infermation,
on some points; yet the traveller, in this state, will- find it
a most valuable x;onq)anion; and by giving it a careful pe-
rusal will be amply rewarded for his trouble.
1 " The Notes were written in tiba year 1781, and some-
what corrected and enlarged in l'"82, in answer to queries
proposed to the author, by a foreigner of distinction (M.
de Marbois, secretary of the French legation), then resid-
ing in America.'^ The work is arranged^im the follow-
ing plan. * *
" 1 Boundaries.
2 Rivers. v
3 Sea-ports.
f 4 Mountains.
5 Cascades.
^6 Productions, inmeral, ve|etable, and animal.
▼I»«|]|l4r.
20
>/•'»
mt of this
5 has been
^e Notes
formation,
gdrous in-
y be justly
he state of
tufe of the
[ifonnation,
I will find it
careful pe-
1 1
#
*
p,:-
7 Climate^ ' ■ '„ . }
8 Populatiaii.
9 Militaiy force.
10 Marine force.
11 Aborigines. ^'^^
12 Counties and towns^.
13 Constitution.
14 Laws.
15 Colleges, buildings, andi roads.
16 Proceedings aa to tones.
ITReU^on.
18 Msmners. .
19 Manu&ctures.
30 Sul]jects of commerce.
21 Weights, measures, and mcmey.
22 Public revenue.
23 Histories, memorials, and state papers.^'
With three niambers of an Appendix.
It is from this valuable work that the /acts exhibited in
the following shcnrt sketch are chiefly taken ; and wherever
the brevity of the subject would admits I have given them
in Mr. Jefferson's own elegant language, although I have
adhered to my original arrangement of the various sub-
jects. It may be observed here, that ^nce Mr. Jefferson's
Notes were ccAipiled, Kentucky has been formed into a
separate state, which makes a material alteration in the
dimensions of the state of Virginia.
ViRGXNi^ is situated between 36° 30' and 39° 43'
north latitude, and 1° east, and 6° 25' west longituder
The extreme length of the state from east to west is 442
miles, and the extreme breadth from the North Carolina^
line to the Pennsylvania Ufie is 235; but it may b^
'n
1^ ^ 'rtammM,
db^iervedthat there is a small port of thfe^ state that inches
along the banks of the Ohio, to the w€SI of Fenniylvanie,
aboiit 60 miles long, and on an average 10 broad; and
there is another small part, about 55 miles Idng and 12
broad, to the east of the Chesapeak. The area is com.
puted at 70,500 square miles, beii^ nearly as large as the
whole island of Britaui, computed at 77,243; Hie humber
of acres in Virginia is 45,120,000. ..^ i\^
^-^^ The face of the country is sbnienivlmt adHkilated to
Pennsylvania, including Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland.
The eastern part extends plong the 'sea coast alk>ut 115
miles, of which the outlet of the Chesapeak, already
noticed, occupies 20 ; and this elegant confluence of waters,
so often referred to, forms a great varirty inthis part of
the 'State, From' thig sear coast tb the hl^d of the tide
ivat^rs, about 100 miles, the country is nfostly levd, and
abounds with «i*a*iiipfei' From' thenicfe to the mountains
it is agreeably unevt^n,*ftnft affords delightftil prbspects.
Tl^ riiblintaiileuB disti^dt is abbut 100' miles in breadth,
arid thi^ itidges ^dbttiifluti,' 4^ in Pennsylvania, to range from
W)rth-^§t to 'siiuth-iivfelrti ^' ©eyondi the ihouritains the
ciiiuiWy'S iAuch VaHegati^-^here swellihg out irito con-
Sid^bfe^ hins,^th^re siibsiding ifito agrefeabfe' v^leys ;
and sd^'cisritiifiues' to tfie Ohi6, about 60 miles. The
Alfe^y chain Is the great *ridge Which di^es tfie waters
oF the Atiantic frbiti thel' Mississippi, arid its sfuAmit is
more elevated above the o6ea<i thaii that of the others:
biit itk relative heigirt, compared with the base oil which
it'stkh^i^is not so great, b^fcause the country rises behind
tiie 'sliec6^lve ridges lik^ steps of stajr^. The most
rievaterf pbiht does nbt exceed 4000 feet, and few amount
to mofe than ^500, ^^
■^'V
:/!r^-if;^^.iU^
yiBOINlA.
229
stretches
sylvania,
ad; and
^ and 12
/is com-
ge as the
ehumber
likted to
^ieuryland.
ilk)ut 115
i; already
of waters,
\as part of
^ the tide
level, and
ittouhtains
prbspects.
n breadth,
iEttigefrom
titains the
irito con-
^^ VJJIeys;
les. The
(iie waters
Suifwnit is
le others:
oil which
[ses beWnd
The most
;w amount
The whole of the Atlantic rivers have been already
noticed; the others are but few. The state is watered to
the westward by di^ Ohio upwards of 240 miles, and the
Great Sandy river forms the boundary, for upwards of 100
mileis, between it and Kentucky. The* most important
river, to the westward, is the Great Kanhaway, "a river
of considerable note for the fertility of its lands, and still
more, as leading towards the head waters of James river.
Nevertheless, it is doubtful whether its great and numer-
ous Mh will admit a navigation but at a^ expence to
which it will require ages to render its inhabitants equal.
Hie'^^reat obfrtacles begin at what are called the great falk,
90 miles above its mouth, below which are only 5 or 6
rapids^ ' and these passable, with some difficulty, even at
low water.^ From the falls to the mouth of Greenbriar is
100 matls; and thence to the lead mines 120. It is 280
yards \nde at its mouth*'^."
"The little Kanhaway is 150 yards Wide at the mouthy
ind lis ^igable' for 10 miles Only t.»* ^^
* The Shenandoaii river rises in- the interior of the country,
and'rutimng a librth-east- course, of about 250 miles,
through ^ great Limestone valley, parallel to th^ moun-
tkiitsj falls into the Potomac jiist above the Blue Ridge.
The jun<ition'of the rivers, and the passage through the
Bhtt Ridge, is said to be one of the finest scenes in nature,
arid" is thus elegantly described by Mr. Jefferson. ** You
stand- Oft a very high point pf land. On your right comes
up th6 Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the
mouiitain an hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left
approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also. — ^In
\ I
* Jefferson's Notes..
t Ibid,
250
VIRGINIA.
the'iHioment of their junction they rush together against
the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea.
w <'Thc first glance of this scene huirks our senses into
the opinion that this earth has been created in time ;. tiiat
the nraountains were formed iirst, that the rivers began to
flow afterwards; that, in this place particularly, they have
been dammed up by the Blue Ridge of mountains, and
}iave formed an ocean which fil^d the whole valley ; that
continuing to rise, they have at length brpken over at this
spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit
to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, but particu-
larly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their dis-
rupture and avulsion frc»n their beds by the most power-
ful agents of nature, corroborate the impression.*— But the
chstant finishing which nature has given to the picture is
of a very different character. — It is a true contrast to the
foreground. — It is as placid and delightful as that is. wild
and tremendous. — For the mountain being cloven asunder,
she presents to your eye, through the cleft^ a small catch
of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain
country, inviting you, as it were, fron^ the riot and tumult
roaring around, to pass through the breach, and participate
ci* the calm below. Here the eye ultimately oomposes
itself ; and that way the road happens actually ta jlead.-^
You cross the Potomac above the junction^ pass along its
side through the base of the mountain fbr thivLc miles, its
tei^ible precipices hang^g in fragments over you, and
within about 20 miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine
country around it This scene is worth a voyage achx)ss
the / tlantic ; yet there are people who have spent their
wh Je lives within half a dozen of miles, and have never
been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers
andi
itscc
"1
of fhi
river^
spring
of a K
into t
its bre
all in j
botton
In 1
very c
Madisc
near tl
Iffie wij
doah.
the asD
pitch a
its base
tWfQ^thii
3QQJee
a^cendii
length
neater d
neariy
i^ault of
50vieet
incnistec
yiBOINIA.
231
against
tea.
ses into
^$. that
tegan to
tey have
tins, and
ey; that
it at this
summit
;p£fftICU-
heir dis-
it power.
^Birtthe
picture is
ast to the
lat is. wild
1 asunder,
catch
theplun
tumult
icipatB
loomposes
lead.—**
along its
miles, its
|ypu, and
the fine
|ge aOtoss
Lt their
ive never
;n rivers
and mottiylainsy which must have shaken^ the earth itself to
its centre*/*
**The only remarkable cascade in this country, is that
of ^ Wng springs in Auguslja. It is a water of James
river^ where it is called Jackson's river, rising in the warm
spring, sfod flowing into that valley. About three quarters
of a mile from its source, it falls over a rock 200 feet,
into the valley below. The sheet of water is broken in
its breadth by the rock, in two or three places, but not at
all in its height* Between the sheet and the rock at the
bottom you may walk across dry f.** . ;
In the limestone country there are many caverns of
very considerable extent. "The most noted is called
Madison's Cave, and is on the nonh side of the Blue Ridge,
near tl^ intersection of the Rockingham and Augusta
line with tl^? south fork of the southern river of Shenan-
doah. It is in a hill of about 200 feet perpendicular height,
the ascent of which, on one side, is so steep, that you may
pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes
its base; The entrance of tne cave is, in this side, about
two^thinds of the way up. . It extends mto the earth about
3QP .feet,, branching into subordinate caverns, sometimes
as^nding a little, but more generally descending, and at
length terminates, in two different places, at basons of
latgr of unl^own extent, and which I should judge to be
iieariy on a level with the water of the river." "The
mult of this cave b of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 or
SOaeet high, through which the water is continually per-
colatingv This trickling down the sides of the cave has
incrtisted them over in the form of elegant drapery ; and
* Jefferson's Notes.
t Ibid.
239
ViBOINU.
dripping from the top of the vault, gpenemtes on thaty and
on U)e b^ below, stalactites of a conicaU fiM, some of
which have met and formed massive columna*,"
-Another of these caves is near the North Mppntain in
Frederick county. ** The entrance into this is on the top
of an extensive ridge. You deacend.SOor 40 feet as into
a well, from whence tlie cave then ex;tends» nearly horizontal-
ly,400Yeet into the earth, preserving a bveadth of firom
20 to 50 feet, and height of from 5 to 12 feet, ^fter
entering this cave a few feet, the mercury, wj^h was in
the open air at 50', rose to 57''t«" -'• i
'«;** At the Panther gap, in the ridge which dlyide^ the
ivaters of the Cow and Calf Pasture, is, mi^ is caU^d the
Biawing cave. It is in the side of a hill, is of about 100
feet diameter, and emits constantly a current of air of such,
force, as to keep the weeds prostrate for 20 yards before
it* - It is strongest in dry frosty weather, and weakest in
loiig spells of rain|." '^ There b another blowing c^ve in
the Cumberland mountain, about a mile from the Cardina
liiwi.*' ' . . \
The Natural Bridge, in this state, is one of ,^. Juost
sublime of natui^'s works. >* It is on the aacent.«^ MuUi
which seems to have be^n cloven through its ifogth by
sqme great convulsion. The fissure, ju^t «t'the,bridg|p, is,
by some admeasurements^ 270 feet^deepj^by^rOthiBi^pnly
205. It is about 45 feet wide at the bottom, and JK) at
the top; this of course detetmines the lengths, of the
bridge, and its height^ from the water. Its bi^thjin the
middle,, is .about i30 fqet, but. more i^t th^ end? > and the
thickness of the mass, at the summit of the arch, about 40
cnrth, '
due, V
itone.^
dMsbr
of the
Thoug
put! W
kitknt
invohm
parapet,
abouta
fit>m thi
delightfi
finotiaR
ieyare
and sprii
spectatoJ
nanow,
above an<
▼iewof 1
ontheol
which it
commodi
ed eisew
passing i]
Jame|» ns
grist-mill,
above*."
Jeffers9n's Notes*- t lb. \ lb*
lb.
VOL. I.
TlftOIMIA.
S33
Mty and
lomeof
fidci the
;aU^dthe
bout 100
irof sucl^
^ before
g P^ve in
iiBit > A part of' this thickness is constituted by a coat of
earth, idiich g;ives growth to many large trees. The resi-
due, with the hiU on both sides, is one solid rock of lim^-
Mone. The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form, but
die hvrger axis of the ellipsis, which would be the chord
of (he areh, is many times longer than the transverse.
Though the sides of this bridge are provided hi some
psrti with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have reso-
lution to walk to them, and look over into the abyss. You
invohuiitarily fell on your hands and your feet, creeps to the
parapet, and peep over it. Looking down fi'om this height
about a minute, gave me a violent head-ach. If the view
Stotn th^ tcyp be painful and intolerable, that from below is
delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for the
fnodons arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what
tliey are here : so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light,
and springing, as it were, up to heaven ! the rapture of the
spectator is really indescribable ! ' The fissure continuing
OBROW, deep, and straight, for a considerable distance
above and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleaang
view of the North Mountain on one side, and Blue Ridge
on the other, at the distance each of them of about five
mUes. Tlus bridge is in the county of Rockbridge, to
which it has given name, and affords a public and very
commodious passage over a valley, which cannot be cross-
ed elsewhere for a Considerable distance. The stream
pasB^ig under it is called Cedar credc. It is a water of
Jame|» river, and sufficient in the driest seasons to turn a
grist^miU, though its fountain is not more than two miles
above*."
lb.
VOL. I.
• Jefferson's Notes.
2g
b^S-
^4
visomiA.
/' There area great variety of mmerala and mmenl^iijriiigt
in the state. Iron is very plenty, and aeveral mines of
lead have been opened. Some copper, black-leadt and
preciious stones have been found, and in one inatance gold
was discovered. Limestone is plenty, and coal is abua.
dant at Richmond, in some places among the mountains,
and in the western country. Of the mineral springa, the
warm and hot springs, and the sweet springs are the most
lemarkable. They are situated near the aourcea of James
river, at the foot x>f the Allegany mountains, about 4S miles
apart. They are now well known, and much resorted t<K
There are si^lphur q>rings in several places ; and on the
Kanhaway river, 67 miles from its outlet, there is a very
remarkable mr spring. The hole from which it issues ii
of the capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, and the current of air
so strong ** as to give the sand about its orifice the motion
which it has in a bdling spring. On presenting a Ughted
candle or torch within 18 inches of the hole, it flamfs up
in a column of 18 inches in diameter, and 4 or 5| feet in
height, which sometimes bums out within 20 minutes, and
at other times has been known to continue burning fo
three days, toid to have been left in that state. The flame
is unsteady, of the denu^ of burning ^»irit% aodvsnielk
like burning pit-coal^." ^^ There is a similar aprkg on
Sandy river, the flame of which is a column about IS
inches diameter, and three feet highf."
^ The soil in the low part of the stat« is sandy^ except od
^ banks of the rivers, where it is very richw Between
the head of the tide- waters and the mountains, it exhibits
a great variety, and a considerate portion is good. Amoog
H-
* Jefferson's Notes.
t Ibid.
^tceM^'in*
«litelthy^
•^'Tha -fe
fke EiigH]
l^beb^oisttt
mmc
^^^kieiiitb
Kiipceti «
fo 1774 V
dertcc. Tl
was the fin
2 senators a
VIWUHIA.
S39
m of
» and
egoki
abuit.
oiUnni,
emoU
Jamci
Snulct
rtedto»
I on the
la vay
ssuesb
It of air
^moticn
flighted
anfsup
S feet in
ites,aiid
for
on
»ut IS
i^
llMnmim»MlHi>tiiCTC ift i great deal of poor land, but It ia
hu c mwuid wMi rich valleys. Beyond the mountains the
ioil it g«inel«Hy rich lAid fertile. ^^>^
««The cKmate of Viiginia b very various, and 13 subject
t» great And sudden changes. In the greater part of the
country below the head of the tide- waters, the summes
lie hot and sultry, iind the winters mild. From thence to
the fool of the mountains the air is morcf pure and elastic,
ihdrboth summers and winters are several degrees oifi»teiik«
perature below the low countiy. Among the mountaina»
tfie sumrii^rs art! delightful, though sometimes the hecit is
^fry gfM. To ^ westwai^ the climate is temperatfs
tliesUfhUid^ being cool^ and the winters wanper than on
Ae sen coast. £xcept hi the neighbourhood of stagnaM
#aters^ b» the low country, Virginia has, up(m the whole,
«healtiiy CKmate. i., ../^
^^ThisDinit penflanmt settlement of Vfa^nia was b)r
the Eniglish^ in mo. In 1613, a Mr. Rolf married
l^bCbhoiltifsV the daughter of Powhatan, an Indian ehie^
Mi th6'cohhekkMi#aa the foundation for a fHendljr
^yMimeniebetweeh die English settlers and die Indianltf.
nv 1616^lhe (iiiiture of tobacco b^citnie gieneral. The siimfc
j^eol^ Mf > Rdtf 1^^ wife Pdcahonta^ visited £tiglan(i,
%hei« iihb>^«^ ihtrbdUced at court, and treated with gt«itt
m^^^9i^iM'^ year following at Gittvesend, tfiiA
I' left a BCitij whose d^so^danl^ sdll survive fai Virgima Ift
I6Cl8'did^)^y amouDited to Upwards of 69,000 p^opte.
Ini'1774 Vhglnia appointed seven dele^tes to the iAfk
€6h^W^ ioidtodk e^ decisive pat in the war for Indlj^-
dence:^ The slii^ constitution was framed in 1776, and
was the first in the United States. Virginia how sends
2 senators and 22 representatives to congress.
4
H
m
vtiienfiAi;
y*^-
'The 'ittiile is divided into an easteiiri «nd>«vettm
trict, and 90 counties. In 1800 it contained ai pNdimktticin
oF^^540,d53 'free persons, and 345,796 idaves,] in fall
886,149 ; being upwards of 12 to the square mile* m
^1 Th^reare no towns of any maierkd comfequenoem Vir*
ginia^ 'which has been attributed, and pifobal^^ Willi rea-
sony to the circumstance of the state being so complete^
%teriiected with navigable rivers, that a market is bcought
dmtoit to every mim's door» and diey have no inducement
to establish large cities. '^m o
^ Norfolk is the largest town, and the most commerciij
in the Atate. It contained, by the census of IQQO, nearly
•74XX) inhabitants^ which have since greatly encreasedf.
it is a place of very extended commerce^ principally i^
^(tur and tobacco, and its commeroe* and poptilatioi^ will
probably continue to encrease, for a Iqng period; A4^.
'^flbisaii remarks, in his Notes, ''that it will piqbabt^F'be
^emporium for all the trade of theChes^ipealinb^ and
.Its I waters, and a canal of 8 or, 10 milc^iwill fbrpgdoi itffil
^t of the Albemarle sound and it9 lyater^" Tiiersam^
sentiment was expressed in conversation, with mes, vBujtiit
%<to lie observed, that the Chesapqs^ bay and; itui waters
^|a?e navigable along way into the inti^ar c^liiiefCQtnitryyin
jf^Qfisequencet^ wl|ich^ probably no angle tjc»viif oTf ff^tp will
r^'tfaie emporium for o/^ the trade, it fW ^^^^^dediamo^g
jfViany. We accordingly find numerous, towns., upon those
'ifwaters, many of which have already been notiofd, an^^ ti|s
following may be added.^ i f?<^r\r ■ [ ;
tll^ jpja IRappabannoc, Urbanna, Port Royal, F^dmputli^frA
'l^^f^rm-H^
FUm'-i'.'V. . r'i?'N^TTC^\;:n'U(^-)\
•'1)11 V^ vrt * By the c<^8U9 of IftlOi they
^r\'4h'j^^^i'
*,tO»W$/^>|j**^f?,
• »
m0m§
? >Qn \
never. :>.
Qit'Jc
Sufiblk,
ville^
r. There
ihe^te.
more tha
i?j>' The'.-s
mads, bu
The-cana
ler^^th
it is 16 J]
pose. C
Ihe'navig
1^ buikl
arphHpctu
Iwd? Bi
^sktemble
^wouldnot
aEFangpeme
tfaeipiemb
of b^ban
^sometinies
unknown,
ficientlyd]
ingoneof
ofaprofcs
Jnent,perh
iVif.
pktdy
oemeot
, nearly
«Bsed#.
ion wiU
% Mf*
I (Waters
•Witty* jn
t.On York riverand its iivaters, York, Newcastle, Ha^
ROver. -.v^
On Jianes river and its waters,, PortsmQuth,HaiB{xtion,
Sttfiolk) Smithfidd, Williamsburg, Manchester, Charlpttes-
i ,, TJierQ is na very important town in the western part of
ihe f^le. WheeUngi on the Ohio, wiV<prol^ly;ii^l9:£iliP
more than any other. '^*w^-:-'''^v>^> ''^^d4',?*jc^' ,"
ifi. The state has of .late been considerably improved^ by
roads, but in that branch, much yet remains totbefdon^. '
The canal contemplated by Mn Jefferson between the wa- ,
lers^^ the Chesapeak and Albemarle sound has been cilfc.
it is l6F.miles in length, and answers a most valuable pur:!'
pose. Conudi^able improvements have been made upopi
the* navigi^ion of the Shenandoah river; and thei^ are se*
^vua^ veiiy important roads and canals projected^ As ti|o
i^ l^ildings, Mr. Jefoson remarks, V The genius 'iK*
architecture seems to have shed its maledictions over; tins
Ivnd* ^ Buildii|gs< are often erected by individuals at con;-
rsidembk expence. To ^ve these; symmetry and taste
woiUd^ not increase their cdst* It would only change; the
anangpement of the materials, and form the combination of
^die^pendsers. This would often costless than the burden
of b^barous ornaments with which these buildings ire
^sometimes charged- But the first principles of the art are
unknown, and there exists scarcely a model among us st^f-
ficiently chaste to give an idea of them. Architecture be-
ing one of the fine arts, and, as such, within the department
of a professor of the, college, according to tl^ new armnge-
^ment, perhaps a spark may M on some young subjects of
miM miii\ym up thdi* goiiuiir litt ff<satie«'^ t«.
ft^rmatkn in this etegdnt and usdui an." "Great inaprovew
lA^ntft liave' donbtiess^ieen made siiiee the ytat 1783^ par-
ticularly in the towns; but in the country the houses arg
nid^ C(im|x>sed 6f wood, and'few of them^hat I saw
hEtid>^d#ier syiRHM^ bf design^ or elegance tS execution
to^itcontmend thent;'^ Upon the whole, on^thii 'branch,
the Vir^nians seem'to be iar behind theo- northern neigh-
boinnii and th^ire is stiil mu^h rooiii for tlie exercise of
idrcHlte(!itural genius.
^ The great ma^^ ^ th6 population in Vfrginia are far-
mersi cMPi te they are tehned hc*ei planters. The princi*
pal bmrithes of agrieulture for ex^rtation, are wheat and
ft^bfticco; and the Mma produce in plenty, Indian corti, rye,
bftrtey, buckwheat, 8cc Hemp and flax ar6 abundant, and
ili^^iider^ble quantities of cotton are raised in the ^utherA
pmi Wth& Btate. Indigo is cultivated with suceess, and
fl^e silk- worm is a native of the country, #iough Aot miich
attended to. The fields likewise produce pbtatoie^^ both
c^t^eet and cotomon^ turnips, parsnips, carrots, pun^tpkint,
and ground nuts; iind of grasses, there are clovers, red,
#hite, and yellow, timothy, ray, greensward, blue girass,
aend crab grass.
b^ffhe orchards abound in fruits, appl^, pears, p^ch^^
^inces, cherries, nectarines, apricots, almonds, and pkim^.
**' The domestic animals thrive well, hlorses, cows, sheej^)
hogs, poultry ; atd there is a great variety of wild game.
^' The manufactures of the state are mostly of the dbmes-
tic kind. I have not heard of any e^^lished upon a large
scale. Hence the quantity imported annually from Bri-
tain must be immense. The principal port in the state
being Norfolk, it carries on a vigorows trade with Europe,
•>
M
yinmvUf
939
fSdvcw
I, par-
is ari
I saw
eutkm
ranch,
heigh-
;iae of
ii« far-
princh
*At and
rti, ry^y
ifit, and
DiHheit
^BS, and
t much
tit^ both
ftpkint,
;rs, fto%
V grass,
gafne.
Idbmes-
alarge
Bri-
state
in^tlie MfplDS pfodmie of the state, m^ imports laiigcljr
of dry?g9p4&; but a great poitioa ^ the trade of the stato
is earned cm through the medium df other places, pardcuk
bdy New York. ';
The expartsof the state, in 1805, amounted to 5|606,62G|
dollars^ <^ wluoh the gieater part was domestic produce }
but as no pait of the produce sent to other states is inckid-
ed in l;he custom-house returns, I should be inclined to esti-
male the surplus produce at nearly double that amount,
and ^ir imports, principally of manu&ctures, at neaify aa
much) of which probably one half is from Britaki.
The Kotes on Virginia contain ample ii^ormation cm
the state of socie^, Mr. Jefferson considers that it is ma-
tsrialiy afi^ted by the existence of slavery. " There must '
doubtless,'' says he, "be an unhappy influence on the
maimers of our people hff t^e existence of slavery among
as. The whole ccnnmerce between master and slave is a
perpetual exercise of the most boisterous passions, the
most unreniitting despotism on tiie one part, and d^rad«
iag submissions on the other. Our children see this, an4
learn to imitate it; for man is an imitative animal. Thw
quali^ is the germ of all education in him; from his cra-
dle to his grave, he is learning to do what he sees othecs
do. If a parent could iind no motive, either in his philan*
throphy or his self-love, for restraining t'le intemperance
of passions towards his ^ve, it should always be a suffi-
cient one that his child is present. But generally it is not
sufficient. The parent storms, the child looks on, catchei^
the lineaments of wrath, puts on the same airs in the circle
of smaller slaves, gives a loose to the worst of passions^
and thus nursed, educated, and exercised in tyranny, can-
PC* b^t, be stam^d; by^it with 5>dious jeculifffities. The
240
VlltOfNIA.
man must' b^ a prodigy who can retain his manners ^ind
morals undepmved by such circumsteuioesv And with
what execration should the statesman be loaded, who, per.
mitting one half of the citizens thus to trample on the
rights of the other, transforms those into despots, and these
into enemies, destroys the morris of the one part, and the
amor patria of the other. For if a slave can have a coun-
try in this world, it must be any other in prefei^nee to
that inivhich he is bom to live and labour for another; in
whiSh he must lock up the faculties of his nstfure, contri.
btite as far as depends on his individual endeavours to the
enslavement of the human race, or entail his own misera.
ble condition on the endless generations proceeding ftom
Mm. With the morals Of the people their industry also
is destroyed. For, in a warm climate, no man will labour
for himself who cdn make another labour for him. This
is so true, that of the proprietc^s of slaves a very small pro-
portion, indeed are ever seen tO labour. And can the
liberties of a nation be thought secure when we have re-
y thoved their only firm basis, a conviction in the minds of
the people that these liberties are the gift of God? that
they are not to be violated but with his wrath? Indeed I
tremble for my country when I reflect that God is just;
th£tt hi^ justice cannot sleep forever; that considering num-
bers, nature, and natural means only, a revolution of the
wheel of fortune, and exchange of situation,, is among pos-
sible events; that it may become probable Ify supernatural
interference! The Almighty- has no attribute that can
take side with us in such a contest.-^But it is impossible
to be temperate, and to pursue this subject through the va-
rious considerations of policy, of morale, of history natural
and civil. We must be contented to hope they will force
their -w
percept
spirit oi
from th
prepann
cipaiion,
to be wi
extirpati
Thi» (
i»g, doet
it is prot
among h
siderable
nia has 1
and faasy
the quest]
odious^
that the in
was a par
Qot unfbr
probable J
person, wi
expressed
lie morals,
But it exij
civil sQcie
branch of
a work of
. There a
College of
There are,
^ tl]|pi«
VOi. I,
T4KGIKIA#
241
tbeir wi^f i!;»tQ evecy one'4 mind. I lliink a change alre^dji;
peroeptiblje, sinqe the origin of tl|e present xeyolution. The
spirit of .tli9 master is abating i that, of the slave rising
i»m the dust^, Ilia condition, mollifying, the way, I hope,
preparing, under« the auspices of Heaven, for a total eman«
cipatiQny and that this is disposed, in the order of events^,
tQ be with the consent of the masters, rather tii^an by their
extirpation.-'
Thi» elegant extract^ which I could not think of abridge
iog, does honour to the head and heart of its author ; and
it is probable,^ v#rom the great reputation which he hdds
among his countrymen, tliat it may have produced a con-
siderable effect in assuaging the evils of slavery, . Virgin
nia haa long since prohibited the importation of slaves*
and has, by her members in congress, always supported
the question for a total prohibition of that branch, the most
odious feature jin it. And it is but justice here to observe^
that tjie introduction of slavery in this, and in the other atateS|
wasa parAqfthepohpyofthei^o'LomA-L syste^. Hadit
Opt unfortunately taken place before the revolution) it is
probable it never would liave taken place ; for almost evor)^
person, with whom I have conversec^ on the subject, have
expressed ^ir opinion, that it is not only hurtfijd jbo pub-
lic morals, but contrary to fvery maxim of sound policy,;
But it exists, it Js incoipcrated with the whole system 9f
dvil society f itj influence has extended through every
bKinch of domestic tscpnomy ; and to do it away must b^
a work of time. ,^
V There are two colleges in the state; one of them, the
CoUege of William and Mary, very liberally endowed.
There are sevend academies, and schools in each county;
and dii^re ^ j^uinerpuf teachers^ in private families, ^s
VOJ.. I. 2 H
242
viRenrtA.
A.;.
tutors: The itidiiis, fti short, for educating thfe'Di^ealthy
are ample, ^d Extensively applied; but the* system seems
to be defective, so *£ir as the mass of the pe&ph are eon-
cerrlecl, and that important branch deserves the early at-
tentidii of an enlightened legislature.
'^ At the period <rf^ the revokitibn, Virgmia being the first
fete that dreW up a new constitution, it was necessarily
crude and undigested ; and much of the oM leaven re-
maihed. The subject of religion, in particular, was not
placed on tiiat footing of perfect freedbm which is the
natifl^ heritage of mart, the gift of Nature's God*, and
the subject aiTords Mr. Jefferson scope for the following re-
marks : " By otir act of assembly of 1705, c. SO, if a person,
brought up in the clu'isliah religion, denies the being of a
Gbd^ or the Trinity, or asserts there are more Gods than
one, or denies the christian religion to be true, or the
Scriptures to be of divine authority, he is punishable for
the first offence by incapacity to hold any office or em-
■ployment, ecclesiaistical, civil, or military ; on the second,
by disability to sue, to take any gift or fegacy, to be
guardian,, executor, or administrator, and by three yea.^
imprisonment without bail. A fether's right to thecus-
tody of his own children being founded, in law, on his
right oi gudrdianshipi this being taken away, they may, of
course, be severed from him, and put, by the authority of
a court, into more orthodox hands. This is a summary
view of that religious slavery, under wluch a people have
been willing to remain, who have lavished cheir lives and
fortunes for the establishment of civil ficedom. The error
seems not sufficiently eradicated, that the operations of die
mind, as well as the acts of the body, are subject to the
coercion of the laws. But our rulers can have authorky
over sti
them.
could n(
God.
such act
no injus
Gods, <H
my leg.
cannot b
him. C
a hypocri
may ,^x J
them.. ]
agents ag
port the, t
tribunal,,,^
ral enemi(
mauvgove
never hav
indulged i
christianit:
restrained
and new c
scribe to i
in such kc
the emetic
tatoe as an
We, too, \
sent to the
sphere.
a trencher,
This error.
'J
f - MMIV' ♦
VIRGINIA.
5243
wealthy
seems
reton-
irly at-
:he first
essarily
iven re-
»ras not
1 is the
dV and
ivingre-
i person,
ing of a
[xls tl:Kin
, or the
iable for
5 or em-
; second,
r, to be
ee yea»^
the' cits-
on his
may, of
hority of
■ummary
iple have
lives and
'he error
msofthe
:t to the
lUthorky
over such natural rights only as we have submittcxl ftp
th^. ^The rights of coiiscience we never subnutted, we
could not submh/ We are answerable for them, to our
God. The legitUnate powers of government extend to
such acts only as are injurious to> others.. But it does me
uo iiiiustict for my neighbour to say> there are twenty
Gods, or no God. It neither picks my pocket, nor breaks
my leg. > If it be said, his testimony in ^ court of justice
cannot be relied on, reject it then, apid be the stigniapn
him* Constraint may make him worse, by. making him
a hypocrite ; but it will never make lum a truer man. , |t
may.,^x him obstinately in his errors, but will not cure
them. Reason and free inquiry are the only effectual
agents against error. Give a loose to them, they will sup*'
port the, true religion, by bringing eveiy false one to their
tribunal, to the test of investigation. They are the natu-
ral enemies of error, and of error only^ Had not tlj^e Ro-
man, government permitted free inquiry, Christianity could
never hav^ been introduced^ . Had not free inquiry, be^
indulged at the era of the refbr^tion, the corruptions, of
christiani|;y could not have beten purged away^ If it be
restnuned now, the present corruptions, will be protected,'
and new ones epcouraged. Was the government to pre-
scribe to us our medicine and diet, our bodies would be
m such keeping as our souls are now. Thus, in France,
the emetic was once forbidden as a medicuie, and the po-
tatoe as an article of food. Government is just as infalli-
ble, too, when it fixes systems in phy^cs. G^ileo* was
sent to the inquisition for affirming, tlmt the earth was a
sphere. The government had declared it to be as fiat as
a trencher, and Galileo was obliged to abjure his error.
This error, however, at length prevailed ; the earth be-
V
9M
VIROlKfA.
Came a glob^;^and D^scaites declared, it wMrled round
its axb by a vortex. ' The govemmefit in winch he lived
tvas wis^ enbtigh to see that tins was no questkxi of civil
jurisdicticn, or we should all Mve been involted by an.
thority in vortices.- In feet, the vortices have been ex.
plodsd, and the Newtonian principle of gravitation is now
more firmly established, on the basis of reason, than it
would be were the government to step in, and meke it ah
article of necessary fiiith. Reason and experiment have
beeh indulged^ and error has fled before them^ It is error
i^ne Which needs the support oi government. Truth can
stand hy itseff. Subject opmion to coercion, whom will
yoii m«dte your inquisitors ? FalliUemen; men governed
hy bad passions^ by private as well as public reasons.
And Wliy subject it to coercion? To produce uniformity.
But is uniformity of (pinion desirable? No more than the
fece and stature. Introduce the bedof Procrustes then,
and, as there is danger that the large man may beat the
fimall, make us all of a size, by lopping the former, and
stretching the latter. Difierence of opinion is advantage^^
ous in rdi^on. The sevCr^ sects perform the^. office of a^
ffCTWor iwor«wj over each other. Is uniformly attainable?
Millions of innocent men, women, and children, since the
introduction of Christianity, have been burnt, tortured,
fined, imprisoned. Yet we have not advanced one inch
towards uniformity. What has been the eflfect of coer-
cion ? To make one half of the world fools, and the other
hypocrites; to support roguery and error all over the
earth. Let us reflect that it is inliabited by a th(Aisand
millions of people ; that they profess probably a thousand
different sy^stems of religion ; )that our's is but one of that
^ousand ; that, if there be bnt one right, and ours that
•»>
vtioniu.
J
5245
round
I lived
f civil
by au.
en ex-
IB now
than it
^e it ah
»t have
is error
uth can
yea will
ovemed
reasons.
one, we would wish to see nine hundred and ninety-nine'^
•wandering sects gathered into the fold of truth. But
against such a majority^ we cannot effect this by foroei
Reason and persuasion are the only practicable instruments^
To niabs way for these, free inquiry must be indulged^
and how can we wish others to indulge it^ while we re*'
fuse it ourselves. But every state, says an inquisitor, has
established some religion. No two, say I, have established
the same. Is this a proof of the in&llibility of establish^
ments? Our sister states of Pennsylvania and New York>
however, have long subsisted without any establishment
at alU The experiment w^as new and doubtful when they
made it. It has answered beyopd conccptionw' They flou-
rish infinitely. Religion is weU supported; of various
kinds, indeed, but all good enough; aU sufficient to pie-
serve peace and order. Or, if a sect arises, whose tenets
would subvert morals, good sense has £iir play, and
reasons and laughs it out of doors, without suffering the
state to be troubled wilh it. They do not hang mcsre
malefactOTs than vi« do* They are not more disturbed
with religious dissentions. On the contr^^ their har«
numy is imparalleled, ^d can be ascribed to Nothing but
thdr unbounded tolerance, because there is no other cir?
cumstance in which they di£fer from every other nation on
earth. They hafve made the happy discovery, ^ksaX the way
to silence religious <^sputes is to take no notice of them.
Let us, too, give this experiment fair play, and get rid,
while "we may, of these tyrannical laws.'*
The experiment has been tried, and has siicceeded.-^-^
An act passed the "Virginia Assembly, in the beginning
of 1786, in which it is declared, that, being " well awar^
that^p^ghty God hath created the n^ind free ; thiit aU
*
' #
sue
VIRGINIA^
attempts to influence it by temporal punislimtnts or bur.
thens, or by civil incapacitations, tend only to be^t habits
of hypocrisy and meanness, and are a departure from the
plan ,Qf the Holy Author of our religion, who, being Lord
over both body and mind, yet chose not to prc^iagate it
by coercions in either, &c. — ^Be it therefore enacted by
the General Assembly, That no man shall be compelled
to frequent or support, any religious worship, place, or
ministry whatsoever, nor shall be enforced* restrained,
molested, or burthened in his body or goods, nor shall
otherwise suffer on account of his religious opinions or
belief; but tluit all n^en shall be free, to profess, and by
arguments to maintain, their opinions in matters o( reli-
gion, and that the same shall in no wise diminish, enlarge,
or affect thcik civil capacities.".
The following are the outlines of the form of state go-
vernment.
*' The executive powers are lodged in the hands of a
governor, chosen annually, and incapable of acting mon:
than three years in seven. Ht is assisted by a council of
eight members. The judiciary, powers ate divided among
several courts. Legislation is exercised by two houses of
assembly, die one called the House of Delegates, compos-
ed of two members firom each county, chosen annually,
by the citizens possessing an estate for life in 100 acres
of uninhabited land, or 25 acres with a house and lot on
it, or a hous^ and lot in some town. The other, called
the Senate, consisting of 24 members, chosen quadrennially
by the same electors, who, for this purpose, are distributed
into 24 districts. .The concurrence of both houses is ne-
cessary to the pass^ of a law. They have the appoint-
ment of the governor and council, the judges of theidupo
vnidiNiA.
347
« bur*
habits
Dm the
g Lord
igate it
:tedby
Dpelled
lace;, or
htrained,
lor shall
uons or
and by
q( reli-
enlarge,
st^tego-
not courts,' auditorft^ attorney-general, treasurer, register
of the land-oiRce, and delegates to congress."^ -
I have bestowed considerable pains to milled in3rse1f
master of the geography and political importance of this
state, beciiuse, from its situation and extent, it must ne-
cessarily have a great influence on the body politic of tht
United States. It is the largest state in the Union, and
has given tiVo presidents, out of three, to the United
States. It is geographically central, and, from its posi-
tion, must necessarily include, or be contiguous to, the
seat of the general government, while the states remain in
their present united form. Perhaps, too, it may be the
best situation for forming a general theory of the climate
of the United States, and probably Monticello, the seat of
Mr. Jefferson, may be one of the best positions in Virgi-
nia for making experiments, and contrasting them with
those made in other places; and Mr. Jefferson 'has in a
very laudable manner availed himself of this advantage.
As Mr. Jefferson's Notes are well known, and may be
considered as containing authentic information on many
important topics relative to this his native state, I have
indulged myself by making copious extracts on the par*
ticular subjects to which they had reference ; and I shall
now close this article by a few more miscellaneous sub-^ >
j^cts, which I consider not only as valuable in them-
selves, but very important as containing Mr. Jefferson's
opinions On several pomts of political economy*
'V .,*''
appoint-
iupe^
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
^*
1.0 ^B£ m
itt lU 12.2
IS itt ^
II £ LS 12.0
liiiUi^U4
Fliotographic
^Sciences
GarporatiGn
4^
^ 4S \ WiiS
23 WIST MAM STROT
WNSTn,N.Y. USM
(716) •72-4503
^4^^^^^^' ^
^\^
'4^
M8>
The flowing extracts are from the chraft of « funda-
ment&l (Constitution for the commonweaHh of >Vif|g^nia.
0^. <« rpi^ ,ggji^ gigj^. g},^! for ^y^ hereafter be ' govtmed as
1l oomtinioiiiireaHb* ♦
,,. u ji^ power of government shaU be divided mto three
distuict departments, each of them to be confided to a
separate body of niagistnicy"-^]egislative— ^udiciaiy—- and
execnttve. a»*^
V <« The kgidatwe shall consist of two branches, die one
to be called the house of delegates, the other die senate*-
and bodi the general assembly.
■' *^ The ddegates to bo elected annually ; the Senators
bieniiEtUy, and one half to vacate their seats each year,
*' Ail free male dtizens, of full age, and sane mind,
wh»forone year before shall liave been vesideatia the
county, or shall through the wh<^ of that time have pos-
sessed dierdn real^ prc^ierty of the value of , or shall
for the same time have been^^ enrolled in the militiaiandno
Other^' isliSH have a right to vote fisr ddegates lor the said
coiiiilty^i«id£p«r senatorial dectm fir the distiie^ They
shidl'give their irotes personally, and ^mvd votf. ' s
« The executive power shall be-ocercisedbya^av^r-
lAw*, who shall be d^osen by joint ballot of bothhousesof
assembly, and when diosen shaU remain m office five
years, and be ineligible a second time.
''""' ^* A i^oiincil of state shall be chosen%y joint bafiot of |
both houses of assembly, who shall hold their offices seiien
years, and be ineligible a second time — ^Their duty shall
be to attend and advise the gHHior. They shall annually
chuse
of die
vacani
cTcisB.
".1!
andsu
proper
wit, a 4
aodahi
tobe
"Th
icom^f e
law, am
which s
"ftii
tbaniial;
andpiub
- -■" ■ ^^ji
/
agg
of numf]
of formii
by comn
it|j|»ecif
thanthoa
tionof it
VOL, I
I. *
^
mfunda-
Mvned as
m^f^-. .
into three
&ded toa
ifu^— and
St, the one
> senate—
le densitoR
I year,
ane mind,
lent' in the
liave pos-
ter shall
tiftjandno
srte said
e^ They
y # gaver-
ilKOuaeaof
office live
itbaHotorl
ices seven
|dut]^ 8»lll
annuity
1^:
249
chuse tLprewkntf ,who s^l preside in council in absence
of the governor, and^Hfhc^ in casQiiff his offioe becoming
vacant by death, or otherwise, shall have authority tp ex^,
crcise. aU his functions), , till a new qippi^itmenl be made, ^v
*y The juthckuy^ ^hall be exercised , by county GOurt%
and such Other infepor pourts as the legisli^ure shall think
proper to continue or to erect ; by three superior court% to
witf a €9urt jof tidmiralty, a general court of cpmn^m law,
wd a high cQuii^.of chancery ; an4 by one supreme comnt,
to be CfiUipd the court of appeals. , ,y
*'The governor, two counsellors of state, and a judge
from^' eaph of wthe ^^upca^or cou^^^^ chancery, coipmon
law^ j|nd ^miraltyy iShall be ^ cpuncil to , i«yise all bills
which shall have passed both houses of iussenibly.
^. *MIheji|ilitary sha)l be subor()ifiate to the civil power.
" luting presses s(iall be sjubject to np, other restraint
toiliabteneps |o legal prosecution^ for &lse facts printed
and publiiih«!d-"
./■».
*\ Out aie Jfasi»;»o inconvernqnce*.^ be,,t^ into.^
seale againsl^the Advantage expected. fton^ a,multipli<a^ o a
of numbers* by the importatjm of, fgr^ign^ ? 1% is for
tl>e.hPiiq[Hne8S pf : those uni^ ia society to, hwrnoiuze as
jDUKBh at possible in matters, whipb Ihey must of n^cesw^
trwuNKfl&^gethjBr, Civil government bdng the sole object
of formii^ societies, its actmini^tration must be co^ucted
by coQiiXU)^ conftpt E^^ i^peciesof govec^ipent hai
it| Jigecific principles. Qun^, perhaps are more pec^li|t|
than those of^any other in d^ jiniverse. It is a^con^^jOiM^
tion.of the freest principle^^f the English constitution,
VOL. I. 2 I
$50
with dtherft derived from lutuml pght tlnd natural reaaon.
To these nodling^ cantf iki6re opposed than the ttiaxims
of absolute monarchies. Yet finom auch we are to expect
the greatest number of enugtants. They VfiXL bring with
th^ tiie principles of the governments tbsf leave, imbibed
iii theil^ early youth ;• or if able to throw thiem ofl^ h win
b<6 In ^xchartge for an unbounded licentkmsnesa, passing,
as b usual, from bn^ extreme to another. * It would be
a miracle were they to stop precisely at the point of
temperate liberty. These principles j with their toguage,
diey w3i transmit to their children. In propordon to their
numbetB they will share with us the legislation* They
will inftise into it their spirit^ warp and bias^its direo*
tioU) and reader h a faeteKogeneous, kicoherent, distracted
masa. I ma^ ajjypeal to e'xperience, during the present
cbtitest, tbt a verification of ^lese conjectures.'^ After a
kvf ^ther rfiflectiohs, Mr. Jeflferson adds-^'^ If ^y come
of themselves, they are entitled to all the rights ^ atken-
ship: but I doubt-the expediency of Mvtliii^ Mem by ex-
traordinary en^ibUl^ements: Imeanfutt that thes&doubts
should extend to useful art^cers. The poticy^xf Ihat mea-
afiiih^ %)ends 6n vevy dHltent conaideiatioiiB. a iSJ^ttiv no
If6^ffeilttin6ibtluf^ They irill-aftisr^wMlegoto
^ plough imd theihoe ; but^ in the metui tune, they will
tbacb tts^ something we db ^lot know. It ifet not ap in
^^gritfilrure. The indifiereht sttite of that ittnong^tta does
Myt ^ja^oteed from a want c^ knowledge merely i it^is^rom
61^ fntving such quamities^of land to waste as^we please.
Ih Eurtijse the object is^ to mdce the iflbat of ih^ land,
b(boul*;bdttg abundant : herg it is to make the mmit >of
ouSl^iibbUr, Itod being abUhdltot^"
4'
viiiiiviA.
251
On MoMifit^furffSf AgrieuUurei and Commerce^
I '* We never hfid an interior trade of any importance*
Our exterior commerce has suffered veiy much from the
beg^ing^ of the present contest. During this time we
have manufactured within our families, the most necessary
itfticks of clothing. Those of cotton will bc^ some
oomparisQR with the same kinds of manufacture in f^yrofi^i
but those of wool* flax, and hemp are very coarse, uiv
sightly, and unpleasant: and such is our attachment to
agriculture, and such our preference for foreign manufki-
turet, that, be it wise or unwise, our people wiU certainly
return as soon as th^ can, tp the raising raw mi^terials,
and exehan^ng them for fiiier manu&ctures than they are
able |9 execute themselves.
' ^' The political economists of Europe have establish^
il as a pHm^ple that every state should endeavour to
manu&ctui!^ ioK itself; and this principle, Ujie many others,
we ferans&r to America, without calculatii^ the diflbenoe
of cippumstaiice which should often produce a di%^t
resultiv Injgam^ie^the lands are either cultivated, or lock-
ed -lip against the culfivator. Manufacture must theiefoie
be resorted lo of necessity, not of choice, to sui^rt the
fuifhis of their people. But we have an immensity of
jbind courting the industry of thehu9bandman. . Is it best
^w^thiit aU our citieens shoukl be employed in its im-
prevement, or that one.hali ^uld be called off from that
to exercise^ manilfactures and handicraft arts for the other?
THQSa WHO I,Aa0VR IN THX EAXTH AB£ Tif£ CHOSEN
rsoy|.i OF Goo, if ever he had a chosen people, whose
breasts he has made his peculiar deposit for substantial
and genuine virtue. It is the focus in which he keeps
m
352
TKAYALi IN
alive that sacred fite, which othqpvise might escape from
the fiice of the earth. Comiption of morals in the mass
of cultivators is a phenomenon of which no age nor nation
has furnished an example. It is the mark set on those,
who, not looking up to heaven^ to their own soil and
industry, as does the husbandman, for their subustence,
depend for it on t^ casualties and caprice of customers.
Dependence begets subservience and venality, suffocates
the germ of virtue, and prepares fit tools for the designs
of ambition. This, the natural progress an#consequence
of the a|ts, has sometimes perhiq>s been retarded 1^ acciden.
tal circumstances : , but, generally speaking, the proportion
which the aggregate of tho other classes of the citizens
bears in any state to that of its husbendmenj is llie pro-
portion of its unsound to its. healthy parts, and is a good
enough barometer whereby to measure its degree 'of cor-
ruption. While we have land to labour then, let us never
wish to see our citizens occupied at a work-bench, or twirl-
ing a distafil Carpenters, masons, and smiths are wanted in
husbandly ; but for the general oper^ons of manufiiCture,
let our work-shops remain in Europe. It is better to
cany provisions and materials to workmen there, than to
bring them to the provi»ons and materials, and with them
their maimers and principles, ^he loss by the transporta-
tion of commodities afiftiss the Atlantic will be made up
in happiness and, permanence of, government* 4 The mobs
of great ckies add just so nfiuch to the support of pure
government, as so^ea do to the. strength df the human
body. It is the manners ^ndsf^t of a people which pre-
serve a cepublic in vigour. A^^generapy in these is a
canker, wliich soon eats to the h^ of its laws and con-
stitution." •
le from
te mass
r nation
1 those,
ioil and
listence,
itomers.
iiffocates
deagns
lequence
acciden-
ropQrtion
eitizens
the pro-
isagood
e -of cor-
U8 never
,ertwiii-
ivantedin
lufiusture,
better to
!, than to
riththem
>
* NORTH CAROLINA.
35Sr
GHAFTER XXXVU.
"ji
fFarrhitoiht'^Raleighy'^Fayettevil^*
Two mSes from where we entered the state of Nortfl*
Carolina, weAnsed the Roanoke river by a flat-bottbmed
boat The banks where we crossed were stee^ and well
wooded ; the soil rich and fertile.
The.ltoanoke Is composed of two principil stiieams, the
Dan\^and Staunton, which rise in the mountains, and unite
in the state of Virginia, about 45 miles above where we
crossed it From thence it runs a pretty crooked pasi^
8age,Kbut nearly south-east, 80 miles, to where it, fells into
Albemarle sound, by four diffisrent channels, near the out^"*
let of the Chowan river. ^ It b navigable nearly SO mOes
for velsds of considerable aze, and for boats of from 90
to40'tons to the falls, 70 miles frt>m its motidi. The land
is said to be very rich qp the banks of this river, and itiany
w^KiU&y ]^]ant^rs live on it. ^*
'WetpeiVelled 16 miles, partly along the banks of the ri-
Yd*, tb Warrent6n, where w^ stopped for the night. The
country was fertile a^d well impit>ved ; the weather' clou"^
d^ aiid' rather cbld.
Waitertton is a neat litfle town, c6ntain!ng about 300^
inhiibitants; who look wen,'and Ire said to be mc^y Eti-
ropeans. The towii stands on a high dry situation; and is
said to be healthy. There is a Very respectable academy;
at which there are generally 60 or 70 studentA. '*
tf^
"^^
^~.
t*
V
iS54
TJULVBL8 W
Thursday, October 9tlu We |cft.WaiveQtao a$, 5 o'clock
^Jn the morning, and travelled 25 miles, through a levels
.> sandy country, to i^misburg, an inconsiderable village on*
the banka of the Tar river, which we crossed at this place.
Tal rivei^ is a cot^siderable streaili, risii^ about 30 miles
above where we crossed it, and, running about 150 miles
in a sout])*east direction, falls into Pamlicoe sound, v It is
navigable about 30 miles to Washington, and from thence
for flats to Tarborough, 90 miles froni its outliet
From hence we travelled 16 miles, thoi^ountiy sandy,
and having a barren aspect, but the road pretty good, to
Nuse river, whicli we passed by a feny.
Nuse river rises about 40 miles above whies(t||rf cross,
ed, and, runqing a south-east course about 8$2Q miks, fiilis
also into Pamlicoe sound. It is navigable fyt sea-vessels
12 miles above Newbem, for fla^ 50 miles fuitber, and
for small boats nearly 200 miles from its oudet «
About eightMrniles, through a counti:y a little more fer.
tile and better improved, we n»ched Raleigh, and hese we
stopped for the night The princ^ produoe m the coun-
try through wluch we passed this day,; is cotton. and In-
dian com. The weather was ck>udy, with a shower of
»
ram.-' ? ■: ., -^.*.'.
Ha L£ lo H , the seat of government of ^oc^ Capsoliiia^ is
aituatedin north latitude 35^ 56'^ a^d is nearly in the ceo-
tre of the state, being 160n|iles from the sea^ooaat The
plan«of the city is regular, the streets crossing ope another
at right angles, and thpre is a large square in the middle
for thf^^bUc buildings.V>^«
RaMjl^ contained, by the oepsus of laOO, 334 friee per
so^s and^ 335 slaves. The state-house cost abo^ei 15,000
dollars.^T]iere are no other public buildings oif impor
V;
o'clock
a kvel,
iUageon*
18 place.
30 Buks
50 miles
d. . Itis
n thence
ry twady,
good, to
^« cross-
iiules,fiil|s
9e«-ve98els
itber, wd
inofe fa-
ijut ooun*
onmidln-
shower of
^ NOBttt' dA«0tIl9A.
255
feee per
^Cii5,000
tafice, and the greater part of the other* buildings being oT
wood, the place exhibits no veiy flattering lippetfanoe.
They have a little trade in cotton amd* tobacco.
Frida^f 10th. We set out fiom Raleigh at 4 o'clock In
the morning* The paasengers had noW all dispersed in
diflerent ^irectbni, except the captain and myself. Wie
had the itage to ourselves, and yveie as merty^ as ever.
But there were few objects exteriorly to excite attention^
or elittit remark. The country was one continued dull
locne of aandimd pine bairens. Now and then we pass^
ed A few piles of Wood, collected for the purpose of ma^
king tar^and the streams we crossed generally looked asif^i
they had been at tar-making too, b^ng neariy va black as
thtt oommodity. The elements indicated a change of wea-
ther, and recollecting the higfalandman^ prognosticatkm^
'^iM|f fittr long Jbtdy"* 1 fdt by anticipation a dreaiy tail
taviay journey afkr my agreeable friend would leave me,
and we had only this day to travel in company.
I in this mood' I travelled 25 miles to Biaek river, and
eQntintfil^ our course through a similar country, we came
to^a^sbn^ place called Avereysborough, soon after which
we passed Cape Fear river. #
Cd^A^or river is the most considerable stream i\.
>iQKlh Cacoiinau It rises about 100 miles above Fayette^
viUe,juid> running a south-east direction, upwards of 200
mUes, £dls.in«o the Atkmtic ocean, at Cape Fear, which
gives it ats name. It is about three miles Wide at its out-
lel^ andiliiere is 18 feet on the bar at high waler. It b
navigable for vessels drawing lO^or 11 feet, to Wilnying^
m ; 'by '■ ^oops 25 miles above Wilmington ; and by
boats to Fayett^ille. Having crossed this river, we pro«
356
TBAVBLt III
'i
cceded, nearly along iti western bank, 35 miles to Fayette,
ville, whicli we reached about 7 o'clock.
Here* my agreteble tiavcUing companion, who, .was i
veiy respectable merchant in the place, invited me to his
house, and showed me every degree of hospitality. As no
pasaengers were going on, he urged me to spend a couple
of days With him, and as an inducement promised to intro-
duoe me to a Soots higfalander, who played delightfully
on the bog'pipet. I was, however, urgent to be home,
and resisted atll entreaty. But finding that my funds would
not hold out till I reached Charleston, I availed myself of
his friendship to get a small supfdy, till I could remit from
thence, with which having fumi^ied me, together with let-
ters of introduction to some of his friends in that city, we
parted with mutual good wishes.
F(0rtteville contains about 1800 inhabitants, is a place
of coiisiderBble trade, and is rising in wealth and impor-
tance. The public buildings are handsome i and ^there
are a considerable number of mills, distilleries, hriewene^
and tan-yards. The principal produce, carried to A^/^lming-
ton. market, is tobacco, wheat, flour, cotton, flaxaeed* and
providonr. ' w ^ . , > >n
r^lie country round Wibnington is genciaUy sandy, but
there are rich lands on the bei^ of the river, and the coun-
try is esteemed pret^ healthy. A great many emigrants
fix>m Scotland are settled in the neighbourhood.
Saturday, 11th. The stage started this moming at 5
^ckx^; ahd I was the only passenger.. The dOuntry be-
came moreand more dismal, and was very thinly inhabited.
The day was rainy, damp, and disagreeable; the. creeks I
swdled beyond their natural lunits, which made crossing |
very ^fEcuIt; and the people looked pale and sickly.
Every
At om
to unl(
ingLu
the nig
Yankee
Lum
containe
place wi
the inhi
the food
bacon ai
for drift*
Sunda
all Sundi
in conset
we had
forward c
still more
Aat'*we p
itleiigfli
oneof tb
a Very in
ftree larg
Miepers,
pieces, ca
fixed bve
I^thefi«
jtJst them,
thefore-w
pedthepn
the driver
VOL. I.
^ ^ - - -
VaMr C ABOLINA.
• S57
ayette-
,.was i
i to his
, As no
i coupk
tointro-
^uUy
e home,
Is would
(lysdf of
mitfirom
with let-
city, we
is a place
kd impor.
md /there
xieweriesi
Its
Every thing conspired to thiv/W me into a gloomy reverie.
At one creek we found the bridge so shattered, that we had
to unloote the horses and drag over the stage. On reach-
ing Lumberton, S3 miles from Fayetteville, we stopped for
the night, at the house of a very intelligent and inquisitwe
Yankee.
Lumberton, he told me, consisted of 33 houses, and
contained 164 white people, and 44 blacks. He said the
place was healthy; but, judging ^m the countenances of
the inhabitants; I would have thought otherwise. As to
the food, it did not suit my palate at all. It consisted of
bacon and brown bread, both of a very sable colour, and
for dridk we had new peach brandy, as hot as pepper.
Sunday, 12th. It is customary for the stage to stop
all Sunday; but having made a short Journey yesterday,
in consecjuence of the badness of the weather and roa^
we had to make up the distance this day; and we set
forward on our journey at 9 o'clock. The country became
stiD more dismal, and the ereeks were more swelled; so
dnt^'we prosecuted oilr journey with great difficulty, and
Jit lei^th we met with an accident wluch proved fetal to-
one of the horses. We came to a creek, with a bridge in
a very imperfect state. It was constructed of timber;
dtree large logs were stretched across the creek, called
sleepers, and these supported a number of mis-shapen
pieces, called rafters, thrown on at random, without being
fixed by either nails or pins. They had been disturbed
by the freshet in the creek, and the driver alighted to ad-
jtist them. He then drove on ; but on entering the bridge,
the fore-wheels gathti-ed the rafters in a heap, which stqi-
ped the progress of the carriage ; and this happened just-as
the driver was in the act of whipping up the farei|iorses.
VOL. I.
2 K
|erii:, by pulling; diit (hie staple of ihb mam stdngletree;
the)' Mt bff AiII speed, the swih^etfedft ^ling at their
he^f«^ We aHghted, tbbk out the oth^ two Horses, and
dragged the stagie ov# odrs^lvesl Whe^/ pMng in the
horses, We moved for^vard, and half a mile from the otek
i^ fbilnd ohe the fb^-hOi'ses lying htatty dead, tA the side
of^ ia tree. It appealed that one was stronger than th^ other,
iM had pulled hM of the road hito the wdO<!^, whdfi, dash.
iiig Against a ttx^, the iibot ^Imlilliad ^ his d^ifH blow!
I c^culated that the bfid^ couldlihvef be^n piit iitito a sub.
^tkmial Male fb^fiv6 dollars; and'thi^ ^^e a^cidehtWbtild
be a loss of at l<akt 150.
A few ams %«rid thfs i^e rdifch^ the itag^, i^trt
^vli dihed.' aur diftfieir, as atl:.uttibeHbn, #a8 Bladk ba-
eon; oiiir 6rtvk, Httv peach bi»aiidj^. But M tWUbks
w^ bitfy t)egiriniii^i A mife min #1^^ ^e SiM m
Mdtb cros^ A^pote sii^p;^b6bt d^-d^ of ^ iiii9eih
bi^eadth J oAdUtt I met with kdftietteng liew. We §wiaih
M>ss m the sbee; ^ it #a^ S^ilb'^^^ l^.
a^^ldie ixm mA a vdy com^e^ s6elk!irig. ' W^ I
obsciHTttf the ibre-llrirses plunge, I called oiif to tlie dHver
\^tlier We must i#iitf . " O 3^," iixf% % « ^if«m a^
Msti^h thick ahd tMri> I it^^istca thaiT hfe #6u!d it-
moi^e lh6 mail td a" higher ^t. He tv^ liot foi^ lOsihg
tife: liiiSistedrmightbeall^it^tcii^^
and this being g^ted, I preirailidd <^ Mm to assist nie in
iiidVing' tM man ^^ : \i^ch hafihg done/lie da^
thiSli^ tlife cttek. '
SoOn after thl^ Wei passed th^ b6i^'iiBi^ lii)<^ df S6uth
dlr^^^ 20 niiies IrOth LiMb^o^,^ Which I j^Iy
pjtai^ rirtfflte^ a genera r^vfewi^
l^^jl^ C4Bp|.)irii.
^9
■m''
ii ■
Sdutii
<^'*l^S!liMM»flKji
"73^ "iU.
*. ^€^ ' .'#k.iii' ^
CHAPTER XXXYia.
Abrt^ Carolina
Is sitwtfed between north latitude 33'' 47' and 36° 3(y» and
1° c^ and 0° 45' west longituck* Its goeatesjt length, from
east to west, i» 473, and its gneateat breadth, finom north to
south, 18 198 miles. It contains 50,500 square miles, or
32,320,000 acres.
Tk^ fiice of the coyntiy is much diversified* To the
cast, and south-east, there is a sea'^oast of niearly 300
miles, indented with a great number of bays, the principal
!Df which are Afbemarle and Pamticoe sounds, which re->
ceiv« the gmttor part of the rivers* On the outside of
these sounds are some of the most remarkable capes la
America, Cape Hatteras, and Cape Look-out, and to thr
southward is Cape Fear. The whole country below th^
hiead of tide water, about 100 miles into the interidr, is low
and sandy, abounding in swamps, and presents an evident
appearance of having been at one period overflowed by the
sea. The country from the head of the tide waters, to-
wards the mountains, is agreeably uneven, and much im-
proved in value. Among the mountains it is exactly rimi«
lar to the state of Virginia ; but being a few degrees to the
south, the value of the country is improved, and the sea-
sons in >that district are deligl^tful.
The state ^, ixpon the whole, well watered. The ri*
vers ^ into the Atlantfc Ocean, and have been alljioticedy
. V
260
KORTH CAROLINA.
t
except some to the southward, which I shall have to cross
in my way to Charleston.
It is supposed that this state is well supplied in valuable
minerals, particularly in the mountainous district. Iron
ore is very plenty, and gold has been found in conadera-
ble quantities. There are various mineral springs.
The soil of North Carolina is very similar to that of
Virginia. The low port of the state, which is a conside.
rable portion of it, is low, sandy, and barren, aboundmg
in |»ne trees ; and the swamps, which are very large, pnv
duce cedars and bay trees. There are, in this district,
good (tracts of .meadow land along the rivers, which are
well cultivated) and produce abundantly. From the head
cf the tide waters to. the mountains, the soil improve^ and
is very various. The mountainous district is very similar
to that in Virgiiua.
The climate in the low country is subject to great and
sudden changes, sfnd is often unhealtl^ in the M. Gene-
rally, the winters are mild, but very changeable. The
^dng is early, but. subject to occasional |rost& The
Summers are hot and sultry, and the autumns lare serene
and beautiful ; but the exhalations from the decaying ve*
getable matter in the marshes and swamps are veiy inju-
rious to health. In the upper country, the weather is
more settled, and, being fipee from swamps, is healthy.
Among the mountains, the climate is renuurkably plea-
sant :' ■ ■-■;.,
The history of the first settlement of North Carolina is
considerably lost in obscurity. In 1710, it contained
about 1^0 fencible men, when the first permanent setde-
ment was made, under the direction of the propf btors of
South Carolina. In 1728, the proprietors having sold
V/'
aOWttU CAROUl^A.
261
their right to the crown, it was erected into a royal go-
vernment. The inhabitants took an early and decisive
port in the war for independence, and the state sufiered
veiy severely. In 1774, they appointed three delegates
to the first congress,, and adopted a state constitution in
1776. .It now sends two senators and twelve representa-
tives to congress.
The state is divided into 8 districts and 60 counties.
The population, in 1800, was 478,103, of whom 133,296
were slaves, being upwards of 10 persons to the square,
mile^ ,
The state has made oonriderable improvements in ^i-
culturey commerce, and national wealth; but it exhibits a
barren pro^ct to the traveller. Tht post road runs
through the poorest part of it, and, to use the language of
Mr. Jefferson, " the genius of architecture seems to have
shed lus maled]<^tions over the land." The buikUngs'are
mostly of wood, some of tliem painied, and some not;
ind they exhibit a very unughtly appearance. ' Like Vir-
ginia, there are no large towns, and them seems to be no
occasion for them. Mankind are probably better accom*
modated by a great number of small towns than by a few
laige cities.
Newbem is the chief town. It is situated at the con-
fluence of the Nuse and Trent rivers, on a level point of
land, somewhat: resembling Charleston, South Carolina;
and it carries on a considerable trade with other places in
the state, and the West Indies. The population, in 1800,
was 2467, of whom above one half were slaves.
WUmington IB the most commercial to\vn in tlie state.
It is situated at the junction of the two branches of Cap6
Fear river, 35 miles from the sea, and, being the Jilace
abqji^ 17flQ inlj^^t^, Jhf^ >o|iaps ^ n^jpstjy bpilt of
wood, 9fvd lif^tfiwfk h^ su£^d ^verdy frpp^ fife at y^,
riou9> times. ....
Edentoi^y xx^ Alt)©pMr|e Sou»d» j^ joiie of $be ojdest
towns in the state, and was formerly the §^ pf ^ |x^al
governors. J| is ^voijj^Iy sj^i^tfi4 ftr ^e, but J? low
an4 uph^i^y. It copt^ins a^u^ l^p inljibi$ajit^,
.mJJ^igh and. F^yf!«^vilJle \m^ J^^ mA^^ Tte
others of , n:^ost note are IFa^hington^ Tmr^pugfi^ ao^
n9fe M% 9»|}f J#^; Mmm^pmi mS^c^:
|at^|i of these p%cp§ ^s kgia a^ut 3pQ, t^ TiPQi jai^d Jbere
^e^lDipy yi|!^^ co)y^#g frx^ JOQ tjp^Spp.
Tifie i|^ Midbiidg^ ^ yet iji J«qi j0JI>qfec^ .^^ aiod
much r^Hi^ t9 feg 49pe^9 p^j^e jR^yeljisig .^ORrfofmbl?.
M The inhabi^BJ^ ^ f^osjdy J^rroa?^> wd p^U$:e oji thi^
ftnus ey^ ^npc^spy ^ }ife. The pcippipal pimmodities
for safe are J^, tui^paitin!e» pitph, jipsin, tioiber, hecis^wax,
corn, €Qt^u> and Jpb^GGo. Almcist ey«iy fe^y j^ the
country manu&cture their own clothing, so tl\at fh)e Bri-
t^ trade to thjs state i^ not great, ^r impprt^ The
greater part of it iSjC^ied on thrpu^ j^e fn^dii^n of
Charleston^, or the northern sist^ The diiect exports
amounted, in 1305, to 779,903 dollars.
The state of society is somewhat £^nii|^ |^ Yiiginia.
Many of the planters arewi^thy, fjrank, sai^ ho^itable;
and G(»iiaiderable efforts have bee^ in^4Qipliqe educa-
tion on a respectable footing, A uniyersk^ .j^Abeen
founded, and endowed by the state ; an^ there are .several
«• */-.'(*^:f'^^
•:*•'
ic|p^i£K academies. But thei^^ important bnmeh, '
tl^%hich has for its XJbject the ^«imi/ diffusion of kiiow-
Icd^, has bdilft ne|[lected untH of late. In 1808, however;;**
aiiliSbt p^s(fd the li^slature tb^e^tablish common school^
throughout the sti^, Whidi, if fiilbii(^6d up, will produce
gtjod eflects. * *'
Th^ le^slativef authority is vested in a senate and house
of commons, together styled tlie Genei^'AssemWy, and
(mth WXES^, ^hfltd» liliUit be l^ksessed of acSO"
aferts dfMd; fc?>i*fttMiVes ttf ICfclThfe electors' of ^
$^Ktr«r imist be pbii^ssedf of 50 acfies of land ; and of
i^fis§i»d\rje^ ^ fi«^9iibld ill sbme toWi/. The (Executive
is ve^d M r gttv^Jirttb^, elected bj^ the General Assetably^
i^ lilr i^ il6l c^Ue f b S^tv« 1iibi^ thii ^ifee years in
MiU ii Ssdlst^ bjr a ctmMi of istdte, c^ktslsting dTsi^veti
I^efabflS, thti^ by the* Asfe^bff SfihualTy: Thfe j^ddlciBlr]!**
^isdj dr t Itipltef^ eqtiJty, ^d% doUf^
rf^dtti(h^« The fiidgles ait %6iited by the Assemblj^^^
■4^
■V*^
,.»-#
■ P?55|^s
■ '«»
'F- ■" ^" 1-'' • "^ '--.-fl^Ji- ■#-'^ « ■
^4 '^ !FBAV£L8 %t^
,-i
CHAPTER XXXIX.
JVilltonf^Georgetowny^Charlesttni.
Although we had passed into a different state, we
had neither a tfiore beautiful country, nor a better road.
Th& one was flat, siwamp3r, and dismal; the other was bad
in the extreme. We passed a smatt^ plantation, li mile &om
the state line, sAerwhi(^h We had three miles of Sfditaty
iroiid/wheh we oimte to altnethodist church, attended by a
pr^t^ decent-looking i:ongtegalion. Five mileid from thence
is Swimmfaig creeic; but we did ndt^tt^in^ here, though we
ha4 t6ivade?L\tm^ way. A mile Mother we reached Littk
Pedee, where 'we left the stage, and crossed in a ooioe to
Foil's, where ^e stopped for the mght. The day'^was
tnoi^ and warm, rather sultry, but on the whole n6t disa-
greeable. The country was more imminently wretched
thmi any I had yet seen, and excited a wonder how^it was
inhabited at all, whien there is so much good limd; and so
maiiy fine diiniates, in dtiier parts of the United States.
Little Pedee river rises about 80 mile^ above where we
crdssed it, ruhs a south-east course about ISO miles, and
falls intb the Great Pedee. It is a considerable stream, and
at this time was swelled by the late rains to a great extent.
It is lidt navigable. ^'^^ **^ » *
Mdtt^y, October, 13th. On getting up this morning, at
daylight, I ibund the driver, a young hd of about 181, was
not inclined to go on with the stage, and Mr. Fordv the post-
not Tl
aereek
Nygct
It wouk
mohthi^'
pOKSO,
]»8tnias(
w'adifl
cijuveoo
^ii4thi
tiM the )
^moiuitabd
^iliouidi
4KKm up
ftittmaste
abye-patl
fMafhqiag
Another (
aiBiitance
Iha4x)8tnn
three doUe
iag^sti
fnrpoae; I
'ttiem(^it
flsta' go <M
^ Having
io^ileedy c
iwamps b}
VQls, I.
BOrrH OAWfLCKA.
365
nuMtor, seemed to be voy mdifierent whether he went or
not TheMvcr alleged that there was a bridge broken on
a eieek about 18 imles distant, which he could not possi-
hty get across, and it was of no use to try^ I adtedwhen
It would be passable. He- replied drily, **PeriiapB in a
mohthi^' *' And are we to wait hero a month?" ^ I sup^
pose so,'f pud he, with great' sang^Jhid. I appeided to the
postmaster, but he appeared willing to leave it to the dri«
ysr's discretieiL Thus situated, I resohred to'iake a^de-
ciiuve course, and told them, thai; though I was unacqu&int(-
ed with the post-^oe xegu]ation% yet it appeared to me
that the sta|^ oug^ not to be ^loppedj but by an unstar-
moimtable dificuky, and^ after the answers I bad rooeived,
;i would require to see that d^icuky before I wai^tisfied
of it. If'thtRforo the stage iras detaiiied here/IxUfilald
4acm up a^ rtpre se niati on of the ease^ and send It to'tht
fiettmBster*geneniL The young man siud^ that thitfe^limi
a bye-path through the woods, wluch he could ^takei^ aiid
pe^fa^ gel over the creek, provided he had any ss^iat&hce.
Afiodier dilver was in iht house, who wished <IS^ go to
^Neopgetown, and hflving no money, he offered to gSve l^s
aisiitance if 'tliey would give him a passage ft^* T^
Ae-^xMlmasfer objected to. The sum was onty about
three ddkurs^ and I pointed out the impropriety of detain-
ing Mstage^two* days for such a trifle; but it^Was to no
purpose ; and I was oli^iged to become security for the ps^<-
ment of it beforo Mr. Ford would consent to let the yt^<i%
man' go on.
■'•t^-
^ Having got thb matter adjusted, we travelled 15 iiftlk^
toUeedy creeki die scnl sandy, the woods pine, and rtliny
swamps by tlie way. The b^iks of this creek wei« over- '
'«^:
jr
VOL. I.
2 L
.T«A«»LS:1M.i.(T!
^■U-:'-' •*
iioived 'to Ihe \xdtMi of *« quarter, of a
Aboulft tnite beyond thb) tltetiflya: topknptHpr tteo^gh
^ woodsy the asaisttutt'drivcrfifitiiig aa lupoeer^iiiiMi aftv
itn^linj^in this wajr mui^ Ibree mi)eay^fM;8^«Mfte ^ thfc
}Cxo^fKbiG»mng Which iw^Aadite alj li |fco i H k in :ill thb monk-
iag« L it was noUiraad^: Imtf very ^teefi,.«qid choakbd. up
iiritkfixMs andibniahv^noe^ lidid notji^^ili/appttaiaiice;;
bill ihfrerwts no aHfimatljYev we muatveitfcQr go ditoogiibQr
i«tu9i* H«vipig'a«civ^ ttift i^ thft^iMPiJttidtak^
.Ct»j.9Q1li» |lliK»IM|ti0i|Stift Q^ of bl^*:lQ)«|t,:l¥CfMpliinged
iDt 9iir9%^h^Ni|$rQ9a^ Di^a^hed ^ cf)pQait»v,ba9]( imiia^;
jisid $<aiH)Ui|%a^tt^ji.|niJ^ I)iipiig^#ai^daa»ik9^^
ii«/i^«piiifid |hla^ i}o»dy „M^:4nui)h: t9;jMijlf:itiil»afiM^^
1^ i^pili^ l^yoipid this ^e itiaqhfd i^Qtm iMae fi»«,
,;^^ Tihis ^ a Jfie jflowiilg Jrivert rpesfclf tfr #i©^Sw^
l^igGilT 4», ^th. Qfolm It 1^ ;/ii«, JKoi^ fyir^
Yadkin liver^ From thence it continues a south.-^aiis|^oiillili
«llJrta|^"fefiWg^-4^ l«t^ Itpblrtai^ Jst«wina»^pail^c
tofeiifMe I5^i^.l^^h's<j|!eeki«^
ipttftjtiip i«%^lg B^^ belaw G^at|;etQips»i^ ^whok^l^^
is upwards of 300 miles^ and it waters^ exteosiye ^ct
fiOUTB VAMOhOKA,
Mt:
of oxMlijriW It is navigiMelbr iea^vesada.to Geoi^iUMin^
wd fiit^^«mlkr vcMils.100 milet higher, np^ It i»jbout\
40l^yivdii 'hroadf whoe we cciMMd it^i and flows vfth a
ttioni^ nnimt lli-bfliiki tire said ta ht feitile^ biit^ in liist
k)f<it^coiMti^, •ro'vay iifihcakhy*
(u^iWiMtoppod her^ for breakftat, but the iimulff were ail'
fltek^'wiii''fev«r ttid«aguC| in conaeqnenoe ei^whid^ira'
#ape tai% detained ' It was^ how^o'ciS ' at laat pnadnoed^
aad fsoMltad 4tf unsightl^^ c^^ brpwn braid^ aonML;
bacon and butter, which looked like ** train oil, thicbeiittl^
uddn idt.V » (had just put the cupio my Hps, when I faeiund
».nQltnatictehi|ig]BthB>«dj(iining f^ the doqrof whiel^
jaMwitliatBlyiopeitfed, and ouiioame such a«n»^>itt<^Ued
the tomivritli'ii p^ume somewhat difaent fiaom duit of
4nbi» fidixw I ooiild not bear it, an4 uBged^o be gD|ie|:
but ^Ihflhdtaivtiit seemed to be accustomed to tfaesi'^sovt t<lC
sctiiH^r«itd ale likeir coarsr^ve mik ^ the cwiiposnffe
! I'
JV.r.H-'tUt;- ti^iJ* yj^J .■■^'•^:^-^',^^'^ i-t-^u f •'■■ -..uH
^ We left thiinrretehed place at half past 11 o'clock, i
twc^ ndkn dialB^tf came Into the old post-road^ whkh gi^ve
ut^aigreatd^fceof pleaaure; {as tli& road front Lun^eri*
ioft'lvas^'ill aliieiv lin^^ and dispevatdy bad* Howeireii
eil^thy^blift mttc not ovser>; liar » few imles aftor ^entisfing
thia dokI^ we«ame to L^Fnch'srcitck; aUd hew ^ brieve
wiajM^Qi^^gonej^ but the waler was spraad onrer the ftoe
•ff^c|h^)«car^' ^ttmty ^three quarters' of a makt- in breadtht
f^htf^^MOMHaltousei at die cidier side^ but the view waa ob«
Hmeieiir^^^tlie'wiooda, and we had lo iioflow fcfr half an
lMHirrbeibi«i#^wei«4 h^rdJ* At M; to use au bial|
fMle^v'iitt iheitfii dK^ voioe«4tf oua pla^ing.in die wsAeiv
tiM^tkmmM^^mmMt^Miibma^p^^ flat^ on
MOB -jMI intK'*wMKKBfWEXOm8^i'-^ ■.ti.ut^t'^-^-' ■,«..?
i2M^
Tm^mnM in
.^
^tii9tmitt§ over liiiM^r cRdet ndriwiiiips of ^nfiMraois^
and thwB'iSi hmikywf Aiag etae to oxcke Kwmldii m
this Qounlrf , we iwiehed BlMkmiiigo crBdr.it 4t'iC^lcl<Kk
in tfebei»aftcinoQa> < Thb aeek liad mnSkd to trgfatt^ cx^^
tent^Jttid pirt of the bndge iros'gone^ so tfant we ooiikl
ndt get'OiPb?Ttfae«liige norhoifles. Wegot aoraii inth»the
raatt^ wIMi we delivered at the poHt-of&oe, whoe we wa^
inibiinMl that the Oeorgetown mail had not arm«i|iand
sr jc wne iet fittt, at length, at a^misendde IMepUne;
W^ ^whole rf <y conaialed of onljr about 15 or iK) hoiv.
sea^as for{Niblic buildings^ there wete none, but "there waa
a tcdembly 'good wooden buildings at whidi I waa; tald *
Scot8BMiiJDe|it>a dry-godda atcae. Ay, lfaioka^i4to«nif^
aeift^ iHotwithatandmg the eminent wvelchediieiBtef the
phMyu^Skmmlers haa found out that 8omediiii|^!ia to be
done.haei.w Movxeveti Padd^vn^ nsA behimli hand with
himir ^he greater part of the other inhalntants wcaie Irish
1^ tolok i^^my lodgings at the head «oi ^theie w^«e two
in^^Git^)iraiid I fouiid my kindlord » civilf obligpg Ut-
tleibiel)iian. « < 1 told hiaii my adventuieai in ^he^ta^e inm
Lui^nbB8lo% at. wiueb Iwl laughed heai«yiyjohaerykig, ^f By,
Jhii'if'-Tf^^'j'iou fftual^^^ toufh time,ofiit^>«iid PU
warranttyou; have found ^^v^^ound ol youc atdamchi
m^mje^ the old woman will have some^ogita^tpri*
sqatlyv and Pll oeeto have a little bit^af beal;.aBd/4lKitt^
it?ii ^t, we'll ha^e plei^^ vegetabliea te^ ind««mie
poraloes, the 9eed of wMch I got irora^ iiM Mand ; and
intheineilntime, wi^M juat ba««^li^iciRQp&cifxaemetNing
tM|i0)(^ peace and good:^i»0itoii^^
like to see a eoun&ymann and although you j»e oat |uala
SOUTH' C(MKIU1IA.
26g
■QiB»
mm
bthe
» hoot.
» waa
tKKinf-
id with
Irish
two
p., iiii.i
It'
t':>«linA
; jmd
o MMii'juMW -nathcr, yet you!ve< tlifr flext door ndghbour
toU^'Midrilat oomet to tte aunvtfaiiig*" So aaying, he>
srtjrf*^ #vg thettteoeMnr3> oidars about the dtnner, nd
'soan iMianwd with the bottle^ attended by the doctor of
thr^it^ whom he hitrodiioed to me as a countryman,
•* «d oKimiieat a feUow as ever crossed the great sea.**
rWMk <we were regaling ouraelvfes, the doctor was seiz-
edswith: an ague it : *' Och, now, doctor,** says the biid-
Ifli^^* wkat^s that fbr^ ydu should leave die like o' dMt
tD<iiie^ who am a trained hand at it ; it*8 I that can rap it
away to some purpose when I begin.** And he soon did
begin to rap it away, fit was sdaed with a violent fit
I fctt fer diem at first ; but when I observed their wo-be-
gone 'Oountenanoes and odd gestures, i could not help
oonipiriRg them, in my imaghntion; to Shakespear*s ad-
mirable nrnUe of '* Patience on a monument smiling at
gfie^*' and was obliged to burst out into a loud hoiglik
The hmdlord, forgetdng his ague fit^ joined me. '< By
ni|r' should'* stfys he, ** you're a pure one. I believe now^
if fou were to be here beside liie, widi^dntiiAry fiioe of
ysilr own; you would do m^ mere good than^ the- doctor
wiA all his mcdi^nes. Doc£tor, why don't yon shove dwt >
nsGidly/ague about its bukmess^ and join me and the gen-^
deinmrin the laugh?'* The doctcsr^ smiled^ which was att
tfae^length^he cotdd go; howevcri they soon got clear of
their 8lial»i and we sat down togedier to dinner. ** Ay,
tUs is something like civilizatibn,'* says I, potting my fork
imo the sak beef; ^^ Now would you have expected that 1
oould have mustered you up a little bUof stuff Hke tfaatf *f
said the iandkircL^ Noiveataway heart%i and make your-
sdtf^ hoBie, md here^s some poratoes for you, a^ mmt
swett.poeatoes^ andi^iere*A^some bdtiia and turnips; take
%
#
some o' lkai^u^4WBA^mms.can^bnt4, tfHEUpMiiMhcie
nviit go6d fiire, thougfa^ve heve^ot iiito« qtnetmotmef-iki^*
wopld-lBalringpla8e.^''.'r • • ^^' -•■«•- ■
The oibkMift%iiidnc» and good lamiaiirdl^^:dib«^
abk IfkhnMn^ beguiledythe tbne» alid reco n c i k d t»e n> a
dctentkift of two^s at thi^ place, wbich would othor.
wiatkafietbeeiialinoitiiitideiabkei for there watBolain|igk
^extemal cib|ect fagratify the lenses, the glorious efblgaMK
tti^a braght aun exeepttd^ I The nveatbea waa ekar and
4)eaut^; , .'
W«dMada5r,aSli£ ilhftCksoiige^oivii. stage anrivedj^
te other niMl filoi|i ^ inorthward,^ so -^we gol idie¥«d|
fifcuft our eanfinemcnl «t-S okdoek ; and, luddhig Jifieii to
'ibeiBgteaabloiiaahniiiB and< his fiunilf, nvft. set out ..In tht
1 i
ThWht coiintif conUmied^ lua^beftBife, iat ?iH|d*«andf^v aijc
D^lta, 1 tot Black . liverf . ivhieli* ive paaaed 1^ t imiodfo
%ridgtt. ^f'lmisf faiidge^ hadr teen; tscotovfivhich: ivaa tho
the stage, and^* though wnowie*
ifc was s^ ill a very shattered^ataiet ^Aick
iliwer ripea near Caaadenfiflndy'TUBnlngt a aoutb^iiat^eoiinei
ii&r intei the IMat Bsdeei^ a Ittle above ©Mgeiown.
Phe i^oad <p<intoicd pfiet^ g«x3<d, biitf the bridger >wae^ ki
vtTf bad ordir, 'aiidF' we "passed manf of thcfim v^lbr dis
^^Ib^iHy ia hetiMalergBcted #i^ eieek^ in «tt difectionii
l^ll& Mehed Ckoif^ihif i^ n^lee iroiA/M^iteon^^ atO
^H^dki^ in' thtf:tvittAig.'>^'**i .^-i^^jri M!i^i^=|«'fi:vi"i*;7>:^#^-^i^<^'
^iiieinrii wj» agii^eiEii^
iMIiti ivho had been«N90Mddef«i>le*tii^
Ii6y)te with rne^ln ©li^fow; - We ii^iirk tnul
imkbitti
Biaclt>iw<
flOOOinhi
fnar^'^iexci
pivdeidaii
kandlfkb
honaeaan
Thejiriftt
cfUBcopidi
we npiflii^
. '"^99ie'4uti
wnuM ai
Thtirsda
■pi tnikiiu
tfbut ^n
SwtOKv V j
Anigk*^
ate ^'tMuidsjti
»iiiindlf<i£i
tenn itraa n
to^cidnsiat (
alitde^Mo
and bru^.i
ittid becomi
Wivelyo/if,j
tfai south bi
6antee lis
formed by t
teree^ in tiic
"pwardsof
soom .OkBouvA.
271
Nhttc
kagne.
neioa
kodwr.
blgenoe
tnd
vedjaod
■IBilBVQI}
adieu to
kts.m tfas
woodta
was the
#iAii; ]iiiBli%i tbe nolo av^^vhen irs^lHnil thii m
iiovkhtinnL tafedlK^lo^Oliirltetfl^^
' r ^iiiuy iiawi jb ditiMted' at te emimBoe wf Pcdce and
Blick ny«f% • 1£ jbika ftoaa the ada^ and coMaina about
flOOO ■duibitant& It ia the only aca^poct in South Cam-
ina/.^inBoept GhaHeatoHy and- haa a oon a kl Bwbte tnde,
pirtieuiirljr iniioe) of iiirhich it ipaaid that the Jimdsiin
iii neitfhbomhood yredttcc 30^000 tiaroeainniially^.Tfe
hoiBMi avr moBlijrt buik of 'inrDod^ > aiid are but indifeont
The tiriftd|»l pdhMo^bttikiMga ws i €0^ V^fttk
cpjacopiili ofamth^ « pnabylftfial^ ehnfeh, one ibr bnptiali,
one he tMMk^ wd A flmiiiahing acadenly. ^ ^
oS^eiottuatioa ia'iinfaeakhy in the idl, but' the wintere
w nttM and pltaaMit
Thursday, 16th, we left Georgetown at 3 o^ck)ck»li
# tnikniinf^ ind Uavctted through a kvel,'> sandy |k^»
ihout |sS ikiUea^ w9i^ #e ipasixd the Aohh brmeh o£ the
8aBieR> vfrnni ifaenoe tfaet« b^a vwy ^nmddy^^awaniti,
AngkiiiuGhtthire ia'H oaliseway*' Bikivoa(uen«y8lici«
ill ;iCitir^F-/i^KflaBQnt^<#thn'vwfaat ' Jthioy ; lipe JndfiritMtii >i -i
n<iiniHy<<fti|itaN^ tb find a ^vealettti pg jfconea^ urivinihe
term was mad^ use of; instead of whioAi, Ifoiindthem
to^ consist of pieces of wood hud across die road, with'
a tittle space between them, which is fiUld up with earth
and bru^-wood ; but thb soon wears away, when the
Rttd becomes exceedbgly rough. Over this we had to
tmvel jolt, jolty jok, jo/f,Jfijr two miles, when we passed
tfai south branch of the Santee^^and hada good level rood^
Santee b the largest river in South Carolina, and is
formed by two very large streams, the Cpngeree and Wa-
teree^ in die intericM' of the country. Whence running
upwards of 100 miMt in an east^south-east direction, it
•.
A
-t
602
« .^
fy^'^ft
.•'.
^idet ibaui iifukt above wImto we crcmad it» Mid falls
into the Atluitie Oocan, bf two clmndt not ir< i^mm.
The WatocOMet m the. tot oT the niountahi» m North'
^GafoliBa, where it iadenominrtod the Catewfan, tad^ pmr.
suing a Kxith^ent {Qounoy iaii)oined by many tiibutwy
streams, 'mA ferms a junction with dw Congeiee, upwwife
lOf SKX) jpnilcs fiom its source. The Congeree' rises afao
in Ngrth Carolina, «nthin a few miles of the Catawba, and
pursiiia • smithNcast oouno about 70 tnks, when it gtob.
^aes the stale Bno^i and runs due south about SOlniles; h
then runs south-east about 130 mites, and ferms the junc.
^tion aforesaid. In its ^lassage through South Carolina, k
;ieaeive» III great many tributary streams, some of which
^ne terge rivers, particulariy the Tjrger, £nneree, aad
"lleidyi rivers. "^^ ■ . ■ . '.'.:■, • _ .v^k »
^'^'fhkty nnlest i/om^ Oeqrgtiown^ we stopped iat dis.
«fer,' wiMse^ikne had a rnew of lAm Athntic Ocean $ aid
a|^ was 'MwibI timea repeated in oUr j a un i fcy onwari
4|i1iere was no other varie^, te the eouiottjois/oni^cA
sandi'flal, ii^lh dilfUiig ^ suid > and pMie (treo^ "Snt da
was'tteUg^Hfid. ^tpeiieaehed € ha i ks| li t -'»at-6|
f4aN)lo6k^ki'«he^dveiling<v ^'^'^^ rr
,■.■• •
!^'} ■ ^T
lii -i
■ r
As it wa
CharieslU,
kw days tc;
On the c
by a friend,
As we retu
us, whom I
ofDoctqr,s
Qntain, T
^non the
Jib " it's all
^ "tWiy,'
i^Mnistiy w^
"it appears
ingefots tc
very importa
in po^jirer."
, seem to undc
try; he was 1
«iolly, good-
^; and I si
an American.
liis animosity
derstood that
VOL. p.
SOOTH 0A10U1I4* k
T
1373
1^ /.'*.^' •■ '?*•>;■=
»«i<M3HAPTBR XL.
Charleston,
'A . /"''''■
AS itjj^ras of importance to make some anrangements at
ChariedRm, I wrote to Savannah, and in the interim had a
&w days tp spend with my friends.
On the evening of the 20th of October, I was invited,
by a friend, to take a ride to the west end of the town*
As we returned, a gentleman on horseback came up with
us, whom my friend femiliarly accosted by the appeUatioa
of DocU]^, and introduced me as a stranger, recoitly froni^
^tain* The doctor immediately entered into converaa-
tipn on the affiiirs of that country* " I'm afraid,'' says
In, ^y it?s all over with th^^ empire." " How so?" asked
I. ",Why,"« says he, " it appears to ms^ that the present
ministiy will ruiii the country." *' Why, now," said I,
*' it appears to me, on the other hand, that they are mak»
ing effixts to save it ; at least, I thuri^ they have taken*
very important steps with that view, since they have been
in po^firer." He ireplied, very dogmatically, that I did not
seem to understand it ; — ^the men were ruining the coun-
try'; he was sure of it ; he saw it very clearly. He was
a jolly, good-looking man, with a drab coat, and a white
hX\ and I supposed him to be a doctor of medicine, and
an American. But I was surprised at hb violeiv^, and
his animosity to the whig party ; for it was generally un-
derstood that .^y wore, much more favourably disposed
VOL. T.
2 H
'*i
274
TB4¥MLS tir;« »
toiyiirds Ai9#icd^^^lheirxpredecesbors. When he had
expressed hi(f|jKnn||ptB, I adverted^to. that. favourable
circumstance, wdstatedy. that, having been very lately in
the country, Lhad paid a good deal oC attention to public
aifidn^, and was pretty ivell acquainted with the policy, of
the ministry; so that I ought to understand the subject
at least as well as those who lived 3000 miles distant; and
if he would g^ve me leave, I would state a few particulars,
which he would find to be highly in favour of th^present
administration. ** You are entirely mistaken,'^ slid he ;
" people who live here can form a much better judgment
on the conduct of the British gpvemment than those, who
are on the spot. But what d'ye propose to tell me? can
you mention a single instance in which they dqxirted from
the policy of Mr. Pitt ? Can you mention one? I defy
you to mention one.'^. I instanced 1^ aiternpi to give
peace to ihjfir vounti^ ; ta restore re^giousjreedom to the
Bonum eMthoiice; to dmcHtateJoreign powers ;^ but, above
all, TO PUT AN Elf DvTO THE TRAFFIC |N HUM ANr^F^$S||.
He passed ovef aU these circumstances except ^th^vi^ist,
andi fixing on it^ ^' But Mr. Pitt," says lie, ** advocated
the abolition as well as Fox." ** He did so," said I,
^^. but in SI very i^iH^fwX manneri and with a very different
affect J*^ " And I diink the worse of hkn for so <toing,'^
said he; *^ there., I think, he was an enemy to his coun-
try /** ** I understood," said I, " that you approved of
the measures of Mr. Pitt.»r ." And so I did." .^^ Well,
th^^ in supporting the abolition, was he sm enemy to his
country?" " No," said he, ♦*! don't think so \ for I
helieve he was not sincere P^ "Not sincere!" said I.
" Sir, you" place Mr, Pitt's memory in a very extraordi-
nary point of view. If he was not sinpere, lie was a con-
summate
to your
" Ay, h
" Cases c
honourab
and detfe!
not disgi
to such a
fitrdus.^'
toour^e
enfoitesit
but our re
not have 1
friettd. ««^
reader will
pedients!^
this advoci
Igospelof
reoommen«
I'Wasvai
i^ich timi
whenihavii
ingly impat
sage by th
o'clock in
I was aei
when the d
waEs out of
axid sent foi
I believe gi
pally,. I attr
IwasafWrv
■
*
SAUTtt CAROLINA.
275
saiAiliKiCr hypocrite. If he was ■ nmoati then, laHcdbi^g
to your opinion, he was an enemy to his country.'*-—
" Ay, bttt there may be eases qf expediency,** said he.
<* Cases of expediency !" said I. ** Sir^ truth is sinqsle and
honourable, and requires no expedients. Falseliood is base
and detestable, and all the expedients in the world will
not disguise it.^~Besides, to apply cases of expediency
to such a momentous concern as the slave trade is mon-
fitrdus.^The laws of^morality require that we should do
to our^eighbours ais ive would be done by; humanity
enfortes it---chri8taanity"— -I was going to say enjoins it ;
but oUr roads lay different, and we parted. ** You should
not have been so severe upon the -doctor," observed my
frietid. " Who is he ?" said I.**-4 was astonished, and the
reader will be astonished to learn, that this approver of ex-
pedients !*-^this supporter of the measures of Mr. Pitt!*^
this advociate of the slave trpde! wad^a minister of the
l^ospel c^ Chfist ; and was sent out to Charleston on the
reoommendaUon of the late Dr. ^air of Edinburgh. ?
I was variously employed in Charleston pntil the 21st, by
which time I had got all my arrangements completed,
when^ having no letter from Savannah, I became exce«hi>
ingly impatient to be gone^ I accohiingly Itook my pas-
sage by the mail stage, and, as it wad to start at ditiap
o'clock in the morning, I wetit to sleep in the stage-house.
I was seized with a alight fever during the ni^t, and
when the departure of the stage was announced, I found it
Wiis out of my power to proceed. I got very anxious,
and sent for a doctor, who piescribed some medicine, and
I believe gave me a very improper dose, to which, princi-
pally,. I attribute a severe stomach cotnplnint with ^vhich
I l¥as afterwards afflicted., -fDc fv' ;,.;'■■><•! ;.i:mi,/ '40'' ra;!©?!'^
276
TBAITBLS Ilr>*
In this ^Hnaddii Iwas greatly assisted b^r a young Irish-
man, who came to lodge at the same house. H6 examin-
ed into my situation, told me he had beeh Served in the
same way at New Orleans, and prescribed somb niedicine
to countertict the effect of the other, which was successful,
and in all probfdsility saved my life;
During my confinement there was a remarkable change
of weather ; the thermometer fell suddenly fit)m 75*^ to 48^
I was told that such changes were f ery common ||iere, in
the spring and fall. '
Charlestok is elegantly situated on a point of land
at the confluence of CoGper' and Ashley dvers, which form
the harbour, one ^ the most convenient in the United
States; The ground on which the city is built is low,
but it is opAi to the sea breeze, and is, Up6n the Whole,
one of the most i^igible situations ih the tow coiihtiy.
The plan of the dty is regular, th^ s^ets crcfssing each
other at^ light angles; biit many of them are too niartow.
The houses are partly built of Iwlck, aind^partly^ df wood;
and many of them are etegant. They arb about 5000 in
number, and the eity con^s about 24,0Ck) inhabitants, of
^^idiom nearly one half are slaves. The public buildmgs
ace la court-house, eiidkange, college, armoury, three banks,
18 ^aoes of public worship, alms-house, orphans-house,
bid ■' The markets are kept in pretty good order, but pro-
visions are dear^ and are not so good as in the ncMthem
cities. 'There are few manufactures at Charleston; but
there is a very active commerce, particularly in the winter
season ; and vast quantities of shipping are constantly ar-
riving and departing, which keeps the city very lively.
Tl^ principalf foreign trade is to Europe and 1^ West
Indies; of Which Britsdn occupies a large share, and a
■•^
South cAnoLmAi
2tti
•IHsh-
xamin-
in the
[edicine
cessful,
''to48^
|iefe, in
of land
iehform
rUtuted
1 is low,
e whole,
country,
ing each
► riartow.
bf wood;
5000 in
itants, of
>uil^gs
» banks,
is-house,
butpro-
northem
iton, but
le winter
itly ar:
Uvely.
West
anda
cbiiSdeliible "portiQii is apprbpriated ' t6 Glasgow^ '^ The^
grdat artidies for cicport' are cotton and rice, particularif^
the ibmver; and the ^ imports consist of East and West
India goods j groceries, and British msihtifiicttjres. Beades*
this; there is a very iextenstve trade to^the northern states,
in which' many regular packets are employed. The^
citizens are esteemed hospitable aid poUte, of which' I
found many instances. They are mostly aU dretKed in
British manu&ctures, so that ibt cukivatkni of this trade
is an object of considerable importance to that country.'
A more than ordinaiy prc^xirtion of the population of
Charleston is blacks, occassioned by the circumstance of its
being the only port in the United iStiites in which they
can be imported ; but it is supposed this branch will not
long continue. — From the light of reason, of ^philosc^hy^^
and of religioh that is eve^ where shiiHing around u^^ may
«e not hope, that t|ie time will soon anriye whenman di^
qo more deal deceitfully with his feUow, but justice, and
righteousness^ and niieny> will extend over all the earth? "
/-■ •
^
■ »i
.^■:.ft
^
'.'«ri5^, .-:;^*i^tjitfi^'^?'rt; J.;-y:u^ri;::t:ri ir^n '':;:'*u'>- J "' . V^^ ; .-: It^h
/#
"snB
6QI7TH Ci^OLINA>
'^
CHAPTER XLt
South Carolina.
m. ■ . ,■:> ■ - ■• ■■ •
1*HIS state is tttuatted between ndrth latitude 32^6' and
35**, aiid west Ibngitude 1^: 30' and 6° 25'. Its extreme
length from east! to west is 236, and; breadth from north to
knith 210 nulesj and it i^ computed to contain an area of
33,880 square mile^ being 21,683,200 acres.
Sduth Carolina has a sea coast on the Atlantic, extend-
ii^ neai^l^ 200 miles, to which all its rivers flow. The
io^Iie'ofihe^oastli from north-east to south-iirest ; and
ibearlyparallelwitfi this,at about 120 mikd from the coast,
^ first high lahd commences. The whole of th^lnter-
Ihe^te ^pa(j6 is n^Iy a cohdni^ teVd^ the' aiig;]e' of
a^ent being sb trifling, that the rise at the extremity pro-
bably does not exceed 15 or 20 feet. From the com-
ftiencement of the high lands the &ce of the country is
Variegated, and agreeably uneven, swdling sometimes into
considerable hills; and this continues to the' north-west
extremity of the state, where it is bounded by the moun-
tains.
The state is remarkably well watered: The Savannah
river forms the boundary line between it and Georgia,
through its whole course. This, and some of the other
rivers,' have been noticed ; beides which there are—
^ ' Cooper and Ashley rivers, which form a junctibn at
Charleston. Cooper river rises about 50 miles N.N.W.
SOUTP OABOUKA.
279
of Charlestoii« not fear from the Santee river. It b a mile
wide, nine miles above Charleston, and is navigable taits
source, from whence there is a canal to the Santee. Ashley
river rises to the north-west of Charleston, and derives its
principal importanGe.fi:x>m the oircumistance of its forming
part of the harbour of that ci^.
Eduti) river rises near the extremity of the low country^
and runs a south-east course, including its windings, of
150 miles, whenit enters into the Atlantic, by two princi-
pal channels, called north and south Edbto; The space
between them forms the Edisto Island.
Cam^oA^^ river rises near Edgefield court-house, and
running a south-east direction, upwardst>f 160 miles, Ms
inta St. Helena Sound. ^
Coosaw river rises^,in Orangeburg (Bstrict^ anc|, running
asQuth-east course, throu^ Black swamp, fi^s mto Broad
river^ which last is an arm of the sea, in son^e places Tor
S;4niles broad, and fopms, at Beaufort, one of the finest
harbours in the United States. Beaufort and St. Helena
Islands are formed by the confluence of these rivers and
inlets ;. and there is a spacious entrance by Port Bepfibl^
eqri, formerly termed Port Royal.
The principal mineral is iron, which, indeed, is found
in great plenty in al| the states ; and gold, silver^ and
copper ores have also been found here. Marble has been
found in some few places, and also black lead. There are
several valuable mineral springs in the state.
The whole of the low country* presents an even regular
soil^ formed by a blackish sand, and pretty deep in those
places where there are no stones. S^ven tenths of it is
covered with pines of one species, which, as the soil is
drier and lighter, grow loftier and not so branchy. In
flome plaoes th^y\are interspersed witli qiri(^. The pine
barrens lure crossed by little swamps, in t(ie inidst of which
|;eneraUy flow& a rivulet, and they have different degrees of
fertility, indicated by the trees that grow on them. |nthe
upper country, the n^^tfertije lands are situated upon the
borders of the rivers and creeks ; the lauds that occupy the
intermediate spaces are much less fertile. The latter arc
UOt much cultivated; and Hl^oa/t who occupy ^them. are
obliged. to be perpetually clearing them to pbtain more
abundant haryeiits. The forests are chiefly composed of
oaks, hickory, maples, and poplars, Chesnut-trees do not
begin, to appear for 60 miles on this side of the mpun-
teins*. • • , . .; -■; ,., , _ ..*. ■,
The cUma$e#in the low^ country is materially differed
from that in the upper countiy, the former being much
less congenial to health than th&.]atter. The summers are
exceedingly hot and sultry, and the heat abates but little,
except in the evenings and mornings, till past the^^middle
c^ October. From the first of July to diat period, the
country is in. many places subject to much sickness^ par-
dculaply bilious fevers, agues, ^c. The fall weather is
generally beauttful^ and continues till past Christmas; the
ava*age teae^perature is greater than an English summer.
The winters are generally mild, and there is very little
frost, but the weather is sometimes subject to great and
sudden changes. The spring commences about the mid-
dle of Februaxy, and they have often green peas in the
market by die middle of March ; but the weather intermits
very much till about the first of May, when it gets steadily
warm, and continues increasing with the seasor« till Sep.
tember^ when it be^s to abate*|^f ^^most every person
- * Michaux. t Ibid.
SOUTR CAKOLIKA.
Ml
who can afford it, removes to a more healthy situatton dur*
ing this period, and a vast number goto the northern states
in summer, and return in the fdXbf The period of going
north, is mostly £rom tl^ middle of May to the middle of
July, and of returning, from the middle of October to the
middle of November. The anxiety that prevails during
that period is extreme ; and when it is over, the inhabitants
congratulate one another with the full prospect of 10 or 11
months being added to their existence. In the upper
oountry the summers are much more temperate, and being
removed from the swamps, there is no sickness. Towards
the mountains the climate is delightful.
In 1662, Charles II. granted to lord Clarendon^ and
odiers, a tract of land extending fh)m north latitude 29° to
36^ 3lVand from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, which
they called Carolina. , The first permanent settlement was
made at Charleston, under their direction, in 1669. The
cultivation of rice was introduced in 1690; and of cottcm
in 1702. In 1728,, the country was divided ii^to North
and South Carolina, when there vfere 14,000 whites, and
20,000 negroes and Lidians. Indigo was cultivated in
1745. South Carolina took an early and decided part in
the struggle for independence, and sent delegates to the
first congress. In 1790, she adopted the present state con*
stituticm; and now s€;nds two senators and eight represen-
tatives to congress. .<,
The state is divided in 26 judiciary districts; and some
of these are subdivided into parishes. The population, in
1800, was 199,440 fi:ee persons, and 146,151 slaves,, in
all 345,591, being about 10 to die square mile.
The state advances in improvements and population;
but the increase of both being principally in the upper*
VOL. I,
2n
292
TBAVBLS IM
cQuntiy, are not seen by strangers. Except Charleston,
there are no towqs of material consequence.
C0I.UM3I A, on the C^pgeree river, 120 miles from Char,
leston, is the seat of government, and is a place of consider,
able trade. ** The number of its houses^does not exe^d 200 ;
they are almost all built of wood, and painted grey and yel-
low; and, although there are very few of them more than
two stories high, ;they have a very respectable appearance.
The inhabitants of , the upper country, who do not approve
of sending their provisions to Charleston, stop at Coliunbia,
where they dispose of them at several rc^ctable shops
established in'the town.''
The above account is given by Michaux, who travelled
through this place in 1803; and a continuation of the ex-
tract presents a picture of the country between Columbia
and Charleston. - ^
** Columbia is about 120 miles from Charleston. For
the whde of this space, particularly from Orangeburg,
composed of 20 houses, the road crosses an even country,
sandy and dry during tfie summer ; whilst in the autumn
and winter, it is su cov^ed wiik water in several places,
lor the space of eight or ten .miles> that the horses are up
to thdr middles. Every two or three miles we met^th
a miserable logThouse upon the road, surrounded with lit-;
de fields of Indian com, the slender stalks of which are
very seldom more than five or six feet high, and which,
from the second harvest, do nc^ yield more than four or
fiv9 bushels an acre. In the mean time, notwithstanding
their sterility, this land is sold at tlie rate of two dollars per
acre." Beaufirt contains about 1000 inhabitants; and
there are several smalkr towns containing firom 100 to
500.
SOOtn CAROUNA. 5288
Aft there is a material ditference in the soil and dimate
of die upper and k>wer country, so is there in the produce.
The produce in the low ooiintry is mosdj|kottoh and rice,
with articles necessary for the subsistence of the negroes,
particularly Indian com. The sea islands, and low lands
along the coast, produce cotton of the long staple. In
the interior it is principally of the short staple. . Rice plan^^
tations are established in the great swamps, and the har-
vests are abundant. Throughout the whole of this district
the agricultural labours are performed by negro slaves. In
the upper country the produce is more diversified. They
raise no rice, but they produce cotton' oi the short staple
in very considerable quantities, and, besides Indian com,
they raise wheat, rye, oats, and barley. A great pert of
the agricultural labour here b performed by the white peo'>
pie; said so great is the difference, in this respect, fix>m the
k>w countiy, that we may reckon there are two white per-
sons to one black, whereas in the other there are two Uaoks
to one white person* ^^ •
The manviactures of this state ane mostly of the domes-
tic kind, for family use, and this kind of industry is in*
creasing; but such is the quantity of produce suitable for
foreign Jnarkets, that the state canries on a very active fo-
reign commerce^ of which a great proportion is to Britain.
The articles exported are chiefly cotton, rice, and tobacco.
The imports consist of British manufactures, wines, and
^roce^ies. The exports, in 1805, amoui^sd to 9,060,625
dollars, of which 5,957,646 doUars was domestic produce ;
and pifobably three millions more are exported through the
Medium of the northern ports.
The operation of filaveiy to so great an extent produces,
of course, the same effects here as in other places; hut
•9^
gM TEAVSL8 IN
the people have considerably improved in education and
morals since the revolution. It was customary for a long
period, for the ipiore wealthy planters to send their sons to
£^urope for education; and even now they fiequently send
them to the northern states; but the practice is gradually
declining, and the desire has become general to have re.
spectable seminaries in the state. A college has been
founded, and very respectably endowed, at Columbia;
and there are several other colleges and academies through-
out the state. The towns are pretty well supplied with
ppmniOQ schools, but they are defective in the country;,
and this branch of education, being the basis of the morality
of the state, deserves the early attention of the le^siatuie.
, The civil government is, like that of the othei states,
legislative, executive, and judiciary. The lefriitlative
power is vested i];i a general assembly, consisting of a se-
i^e and, house of representatives. The senators are cho-
sen for four yeara, and one half vacate theu- seats every
two y^ffs. They must be thirty .five years of age, and
possessed of a freehold *estate of the vaiue of^300 pounds
sterling, clear of debt; a|id the electors must be possessed
of 50 acres of land^ Qr a tbwn lot, or, have paid a tax of
three shillings sterling. The representatives must be:
twenty-one years of age, and be possessed of a.fitJchoW
estate of 150 pounds, clear of debt;; and the electora must
havje the same qualifications as fpr senatora.
The executive government isvested in a governor, cho-
sen for twoyears, by the legislature; and the qualifications
to fill that office are, that he be thi|ty years of age, and be
I^sspd of 1500 pounds sterling. .^ ,,,,,,. 3>v^,^.^ .^^ .'*;
Th^ judges pf the siyierior courts, comimssioners^oflhe
tr^ury, secretaiy of state, and surveyor-general, are all
elected by the legislature.
\ :
GtOBOU»
V3
CHAPTER XLH.
, •-, » ■-•
A
Charleston^'^^Socvarmah river ^-^^ Savannah.
ti
Saturday, October 25th. Having been eight days
ilk Gharieston, without httiring from Savannah, I got much
alarmed for my friend, and reserved to depart forthwith,
notwithstanding I was in a Very poor state of health. I
accordingly engaged a passage in the Delight, captain
Cooper, and went on board in the afternoon. We set sail
at 5 o'clock. It was a fine clear evening, but I was sick;
and could not enjoy the breeze nor the scenery. The
wind was fiivourable, and before midnight we Were in sight
of Tybee hght-house. I went to bed^ butBlept little; and
when I arose in the morning, I found we were sailing up
Savannah river' with a £dr wind, which continued till we
reached the city. ' As we Were drawing towards the whar^
a gentleman' of my acquaintance passed lis in a boat ; and
sb great was my anxiety, that I could hardly put the gene-
ral* question, *' How are you all in Savannah ?" The an-
sweir was such as I dreaded: ** Your friend is not very,
well." I was dreadfully a^tated, and could hardly pro-
nounce the sentence, " He's not dangerously ill, I hope."
**. He's pretty bad,'^ was the reply. It went to my heart.
The power of vision and of hearing forsook me; my
limbs tottered under me; I lost all sense of recoIlectiQn>
and, in diis state, was conveyed to the wharf. But I sooi^
recovered frx>m xx^y reverie. The powers ofmyn^nd nd-
aii
TBAtELS IX
lied their force, and the passion of grief took the place or
lethargy. I was almost choaked with 'th6 violence of my
passion, and could hardly support myself to the top of the
bluff, when I was accosted by a friend, who tokl me my
presence was very much wanted in Savannah. This gave
my mind a fresh duYction. I armed myself with resolution.
.»»
** That column of true majesty in man ;
and determining to brave all difficulty and all danger, I
made the best d my way to the house. I found my fitiend
in the agonies of death. I spoke to him, but he understood
me not. I looked in his &ce, but oh ! how altered. His
eyes were sunk in hn head, and his coldur was quite yel-
low. I seized his hand, and it was quite emaciated. The
iiand of death pressed heavy upon him, and all I could now
hope for, was to mak^ myself understood in takmg a sor-
rbWfUl farewd. I mentionied my liame, on which he rais-
ed hb eyes ; he looked wistfully in niy face ; he pressed
thy hand with fervor, sayihg faititly , « Is it you ?" arid fell
back ihhis bed, and soon after expbed!
* Thus I lost an esteemed friend, dnd 1$^ business lost the
services of a valuable ybung man, on wh6m I had placed
great reliance. His conduct, durii% the whole of odr short
connexion, "w^ i^ch as to give me every satisfkcdonc and
to secure my utmost confidenc^e. His loss was painiul as
a friend— -as an assistant, irretrievable.
-In the mtan time the whole of the business devolved
upcm me, and siich was the mass <^ matter tiiiritkgli which
I had to labour, that I hardly ever enjoyed an hour of recre-
ation or repose for the space of two months ; and my health
was re-established very slowly.
u
GBOIQIiu
S87
In other respects, matters were favourable. By dint of
vigorous exertions I got the.wliole of my business airang-
ed to my wish, ind my accounts from Britain, both of a
public and private nature, were flattering.^
The non-intercourse act was suspended, in consequence
of which, a qua itity of our goods, that were seized under
its operation, were given up free of expence.
Mr. Fox was dead, but his friends remained in the ca-
binet ; and every thing seemed to promise a continuance
of a good understanding between the two countries, on
which my whole fortune and future prospects depended.
My feelings were highly gratified by an act of the Ame-
rican government, abolishing for ever the slave trade ; and
it appeared that a similar measure would be adq>ted in Bri*
tain- > . ~
I found the inhabitants of Savannah hospitable and firiend-
ly ; and was much pleased with the attentioa of those of
tbem> with whom I had occasion to associate.
. Under all these circumstances, it became a question
whether I would form a new connexion, to supply the place
of my friend, and go on with t^ business, or whether I
would wind it up. After much deliberation, it was deter-
mined to carry it on. A new connexion was fiormed, and
I prosecuted the various arrangements connected with it
with all the vigour in my power.
Having all these completed, I prepared to leave the'
United States for Europe ; but, before I embark, I shall
td(e a general review of the state of Georgia.
V .1
. ,.. . ■- St
28b
QBOBGI^;
V^- 4V':W^:.
CHAPTER XUn^ #Wii^^
Georgia ^^^
Is situated between north latitude 30° 30i and 35% and
west longitude 3° 50' and 9" 5'. Its exiremr, length, from
north to south, is 305 miles ; and its extreme breadth 259*
Its area is about 60,000 square miles, or 38,400,000 acres.
^ This state, like the Carolinas^ is naturally divided into
two districts, the upper and the lowef ; of which tl)te boun-
daiy is remarkably well defined. Augusta is on this Mne,
on the Savannah river, irom whence it passes to the west-
ward by Louisville, and, at theextremity of the state, pass-
es the Flint river about the latitude of 32°. The respective
poitions are so much assimilated to South Carolina, that it
is unnecessary to describe them here. The state has a sea
coast of 100 mil^, whicl^is indented with bays and. inlets^
and studded with islands, well known by the name of
&a Islands* In the southern part, there is a portion of
Eoke&noke swamp, one of the most remarkable in the
world. To the north-west are the Alleg^y mountains,
vrMch terminate in i^ii;}^ state.
^ The state is i«aiarkably well su^iod with rivers and
small streams. The Savannah river has, been dready de«
tsicrlbed. The Ogeeahe river rises a litde above Greens-
burgh^ 200 miles from Savannah, and, pursuing a r south-
east couirse, &]ls into the Atlantic, 25 miles south of Sa-
vannah.
The
)rhichtl
tains, al
sotlth-so
thence c
of tribut
imilgee,
^n east<»
IM«rt,t
frilihe'^
(talachyjr-^
itximsit^
hofthward
western >b(
mSes ttpi^
«»»^ly,al
iterklai^
jiisuiii6#t}
t8fliathr%
feetdeepij
^th a i«Me$
rannifiig,^b
C8st upon
VOL. r.
289
f^K.
% and
i, from
th259.
) acres,
ad into
sboun-
U9line»
fi west-
.e,pa8s-
ipective
I, that it
asea
Inlets^
of
of
in the
itedns,
and
rreens-
»sauth-
of Sa.
The AUartmha* iis composed of a number of brancjiieil, 6f
irhich the largtst is' the Oconee* It rises near the motin-
tains, about 300 miles from Savannah, and, running a
sotlth-southrca6t course, is joined by the jippaiacht/, tod
thence oontsEfuts its 6oui^, augmented by a greiat number
of tributary streams^, till it $>rms a junction with the Oak^
Bfiulgee, lOQ miks -from the>^i!Qean. From thence it runs
^n east-south-east course, and' falls into the Atlantic bekfW
|M«n, toi #hich his havtgaBle for large vessels. ^ i «"
fr>Tjhe' 0«A;»wiitf^rfe 1 list a large river rising near flie S^i
(ta]achy,'4TimirWheof<ievita it^'Cbnfltienc^ \^ith the Ocbnee,
it iiuns' ripiwards of 200 tnileslT ^The Utile Ogeecfie b a
ei^ilaUteirable riverV' )tnd falli info the Altttnaha, from th6
hbitKwaidt af^iWs jiinction;. '
n>^fh6 CSifofa/^rAj^ h a rtty \at^ rivcP, and fbnhs the
iieatern-bQiindftiiy5?of Georgif^ Mm i^er Florida line, 125
liiiies tip tile coiirttiy; It risesc^^tthe fbot of the' moutt*
lAti^ il^'thf hea4 of iBavfinnab rite^i aiid jrutis soiith-w^t.
iterdly, ab«*fie SOOfifwies, t6 wli^ itforins the state lind
Fldm th«n(ice^it p^i^ues a c6u«lr a little east of sbitth, to
Hbriaa,>Hte«;it C^ms a junction ^With Flint rivei^, aind
fllnuni6# the name of Apalachicola. ' From thence It ruhs
» 8duthr% east cotinse, 80 milesj to the gulph of Mexico,
iiMclfr!b «iii^ by sfeveral mouths; * • "" "^■
4*#(&f^ f#<?r » Abbut 300 yatds bft)ad, iid 12 or 15
feet deep!) it riseaneai* ^e Oakfmulgee river, ahd hms,
#ith ai(^l^|ygentle<ct]itent,''a course to the West of south,
^m^Mitr^b river rises in Eokefanoke swamp, and
rttftnii^^about 100 miles by a very crooked cotirse, but
ettit upon the whole^ forms the boundti:y between the
VOL. r.
2 o
1 . ■;
01
iHHH^.
a:
United Stages and East Fldricli, during' its whole pintage,
and MU' into the sea at St. MiDry^ utrhere it forms a good
harbour^ V . ":-<,'d-v' :■•,•.,
* The soil nfid diMat^ sili both asshnilBted to'Sidttdi Ca^
rolina. There is a great proj^ioti ef gbod hold in upper
Qiedi^i and the 8ea4slands ^ niintefQut anid fich.—
Lower Georgia, being farther to the abuth, is a Kttie
waMer than South Carolinal
* The first setdefnenr of G«»ir^ was 'inade4h 173^
vMkr* ttie dir^c^n of 9^ soc^ of gehtleiiibi, Who ided
as trn^iyii; dnd lieiMt Ogkdior^kndiM aii^'Savitinah
wflir liar sfettlenc • Mi:^!!^l3!v^i^
i^hkiider^ frdk Sdoi^md^^^d 170^^ motpa
slifl^r^ isevei^ ki the i^btilglie 1^^ a^SS^ptSAdtaobi tM
4sts frtxjiiMltf)^^ The state €6il9titiition
wb adored in 17M Geb^ tk># l^^i iwb' aenftton
aid teur^^tfjirekiAati^ «^^
^ll^mte k divided l^o iS^ coifiitei| lid^^l^
tfe j&^dfy distrial. The jijpMdj^^l^^htf^i
nMy^- ^^02;if87'«be person«;'ifrd S^mWxm,
IB^tJfe'sqn&reinife;'^*^^'*^ -^ - ■ ' ^ '■ ■■■'-^'^ t^^ ^■' «•«
^ TKife M' \M ie# Ww^ in GediPp/ Siv^hlh^and
llij^iist^ have been noticed. ^Tlie odieri iflNiloiif^^^ s^^
^iedforitiic waters. ^^^'-^ ^-^
f^ fiesidls Skviani^sdi'ind Angust^^ there k^ dh the ^an^
tfili l^e^, a litde tov^eailed JV^^^#ti%^ %id irr ti^ ihte^
Mori between t)i(^ Savahri^*^^ OgMhe,'li /IP^IjAdi^^
Bodi these are thiitiftg places;*" *^**^ '
#^Oa tfiS Oreat Ogeed^, thinie in^;*bife8ilfc#t.d^»^
I^J^^d Otemimri^, ^ w >
party JV
Athenif
QttS
soutJieq
Thi? I
l9r to th
Agre
fif^^blishJ
of the n^
looUngat
^jexamp
miles,, on]}
(Muet^ the
»drtWi I
school.
^ndthoae^
inow than
QM»ibei fq
the case, a
- Befive ta
^ best pla
to appropris
CWO|MIik«
^n
ige.
upper
ch. —
■>, *
tkution
t^CftA*
L
'''mm,
Si Aivan^
^VJ
^
(THle,
.-.a
■■ ■■.^.
'it:^
. Oaiiie :AU»in«ha imd its.wgtera, Dorien^ a jkw seiM
porty MlJ;L^BCr^yiLL£» tjiif new seat of government, and
Athenit the seat of a college.
vQp 3lU ]^laiy'& i^yer is the town of St. Marjf^^ at the
southemCYtneooi^ of the state,,
Th^ agriculture.^d produce of tlie 9tat^ are nearly simi-^
lar IP those of §9Uth Carolii^. ^^^^ ^^^^, i
A great degree of attention has been paid> ip Geoi|;iai
tx>.€d4i.QatiQP,^, ^nd^tsty, cQns^ have been^^p-
]ffopriat^.to.th(^ j|^ppp^t of it. The college at Athene is
amply endi^wed, and ppovis^ ia made for establishing
^id ke^piiigDp an academy in every coun^ in the state.
In 1^1^ ^towna^, there are very good commoii achools;
Imt tl^ atate ia yet defective as to the establishment of
these .most juseful se|ninaries throughout the country. Xt
fiiauld be»mentioned» how£iver, that in^this, and all the
southern sts^s, the population ia too tliin to admit of the
egtabJishflficnt of school upon the plan of the townships
of the nprlhern states, or die parishes in ,Scodand. By
looking at the censa9| it wiU be seen^ that, in this state,
fbfvex^mpl^ a townslup of spc nuks square, or 36 square
miles, only contains about 112 persons;, from which if we
d^UjClthe pcqxiftion of black people,, it leaves only 75;
vAf t}^ iwimbeK wpuld not be sufi^cient to support, a
schod. On the other hand, there b much waste land^
i|Dd those di^tricta that are settled up, often contain much
move thi^< t^ proportion % sometime^, indeed, a sufficient
QUBibei^ foR Ithe purpose mentioned. Whenever that is
the case, a school should be established.
Before taking leav^, of thja subject,, I may nodce,.that
the best plan of establiishing counti^ schools, probably» is
to appropriate a public fund equal to one-half oi what may
s^
■*r*
d92
amomwAi
i-*
• »
be conmlefed a reasonable salary to ^'teabherv^and let
him depend on. his class foriilie other half^ This appears
to be ft happy medium between the plaii ^ allowing the
teacher to depend' wholly on his class, and that of provide
ing a public fund for the whole of tl^ sakfy*' >In the one
case, the teacher is not^ sufficiently independent ; ki the
other, education, by being made too ohaapy is not suft-
ciently prized. In the way pointed out, the independence
of the teacher is in pott seeuredj and the dependence on.^
contmgency for the remaindier has a tendency to stinnilate
both teacher and pupils to exertioit. < <
In all cases, provision should be made, that the children
of the poor miay be taught gratis. Good education' is a
'bles^ng of inestimable value to a community, aiid should
be within the reach^of everjr member^
vThe constitution declares, that '* arts smd scietices shall
be piromoted, in one or more seminaiies of learning; and
the le^lature shall give such further donations and privi^
leges to those 'already established, as may be necessary to
fiecuxe the objects of their institution.'^
^1 On the subject of religion, it is declaitd, that ^^^tto per-
son withm die state shall, upon any pretence, be deprived
q|^ inestimable privilege of worshipping God in a man-
ner^lgieeable to his own conscience, nor be compelled to
attend any place of worship, contrary to his ovm &ith and
judgment ; nor shall he ever be obliged to pay tythes, taxes,
or any other rates, for the building or repairk^ any place
t>f worship) or for the maintenance of any minister or mi-
mstry, contrary to what he believes to be right, or hath
engaged to do. No religious society shall ever be estab-
lished in this state in preference to any odief; nor shall
anyop
. Thi
ing»of
and.a>j
Ihe
persom
^vote.
%
latBie.
The
*
%i '•
\'"J
OBOHGIAtt
S99
nd^let
ppesur^
ng the
irovid-
the one
m the
it wSh
sndcnce
tiimdate
»■• .'»
children
^onf isa
d should
any^ perscnt be deaiedi the enJQ3Piiient«.of any dwil rights
joecelfeoB apcoimt of ieligkius<priii^ ., *m»^«.
ii The civil government is vested in an assembly, consist-
ing^oCa senate and house of representatives, a governor,
and a Judiciary. . ' ^ : , ^j^
v. Ihe assembly V are elected annually, and all fitee white
vpersons, who are of age, and. who have paid taxes, have a
jirote. ■ ■; ■ . w .
V ; The governor is appointed for twof years, * by the k^s-
The judges are elected by the legislature for three yieari.
*ii.;»-.^ t
Kses sludl
mg; tod
ndprivi-
lessary to
Ifttopcr-
.'■-„• ■ >.■•■:
deprived
V.---:
• -'
n a man-
i ■ .'■ . ■ .
ipblledto
''" ■ , ■ ',' ■
V .,■ . ... '!,' ..■ . .
faith and
li* ! yy-
<t?4 44». -^ ■- ■
les, taxes,
,#■* ^r' • ■
■ ^;iy.-;t.:^ ^fi'^:
anyplace
•^iMt T^-'
i. ■ ..''■■_
cr or mi-
■^ >•';
■ ' ' ,■ • i- *
;, or hath
.... ;. :.
becstab-
,.„..,
' . ' ' ■■ ■
nor shall
1
•§^^V
If.,. T'li-if ■
.,,-r?
¥
/ ■ ■>m
->»
904
T94Yf U 9N
^*
CHAPTER XUV.
m-^
Savannahy-^ Ships 6f wary — Lwerpool,
Sunday, 12th ApnU I8O7. The period for my leaving
SavannalY being arrived, I engaged a passage by die Eliza,
Capt. Starks, and dus racnming went on board at Five
Fathom Hole, at nine o'clock. The other passengora were^
two gentlemen, natives of Scotland, settled ^ merdmts in
Savannah ; one gendeman,. a native of Scotland, iwhq had
been Resident in Savannah, and was proceeding to Liver,
pool to setUci there ; an English gentleman, settled as a
merchant in the upper country ; and a young gentleman
from South Carolina, who was going^^over to get his.ed^ca-
tion in England. * ^ ^.
V Every thing being prepared^- the ship weighed/ and pro*
ceeded down the river with a fair but light breeze; but oa
reaching Four Mile Point, afew miles below, the wind veer*
ed about to the south-east, and we were obliged tQcome to
anchor, where we lay the remaining part of the day, and
all next night, tortpred by musquetoes.
i^ Monday, 13th.,, The wind having come round to the
north-west, and blowing a fine breeze, we. weighed anchor
at 10 o'clock, and glided dpwn the river very swifdy. At
half past eleven we were up with the light-house, and at
,twelve we passed the bar, and discharged the pilot.,
We had now a delightful breeze.; and the Eliza, being
one of the fastest sailing ships in America, and well trim-
med, dn
Capt. S(
his own
made lee
remarka
the ban)
of north.
ward, bu
Wind, w(
'^thi
Oil gcttii
«« lidrie
Gtiimiig al
and said f
ptpietes\i
teit^naiit,
«id that t
ctefcioy. \
*ifniifted'
"Wn* tJte'' V
rcadung"
cfim^iniein
rtqtw^s^edt
biwuit. 1;
aitidiss and
turn of his
THE ATtAlM'tC OCBAS.
^^
. 4
avmg
Eiiza,
t Five
iwere^
uitsin
tiQhad
Liver-
;d a3a
itlemaii
*!i-
id pro*
butoa
veer-.
>nieto
ly, and
to the
[suichor
ly. At
and at
being
U trim-
med, darted through the ivater with great rapidSf . And
Capt. StarkS) the commander, did her every justice ; to use
his own phrase, he did crack on the muslin. We seldom
made less than 150 miles a day, and one day we had the
remarkable run 6( 253 ihiles. iii teh days we were p^
the banks of Newfoundland, after which we had & seriei
of north-eftst windt^^^ which kept tis tob much to the south-
ivard, but, as the Eliza sailed remarkably well upon tho
Wind, Wft Still ndde pustty good pro^ssl ' ' '
' (Dtt the 27th of April, we discovereld a Vesaet td wind*
ward b^ihg right d6\(ifi tkpbh us, M^bt French 'ddour^i
dU getting sufficieritiy Dear, she fiiied^a g^n ahedd, dhd
we k(3rie to, ndt a Kttle apprehensive 'ttJT the resttlt. Ott
ecmiing idongsideyih^ ca^in hailed il^ybrokeh English,
and SEud he would send a boat abdiEttid'j&dcr/ i^iearcke inJtt
pupief^s. -AboBit v^ atfcordihgij^ di^^hfed,'ahd the
Ikiutdfiacnt/a you^^ ^6otsmah, juihpi% abdard, told lis tli^f
the^sel was the I^fer sloop cifMtai*, capt. Auguzies;,
and that they uted the French flag and ftngilage for' A
Atcoy. \V<gwere<JHighttdwitbtlSs^i^^
Mm with a jglaas i^ our best Mlidciirrf; U& hei having'
fttitoiin^d'ou^pJijieH and found dri^th^'cbi^ told
iii#b ttiighrii^al^ ^ as sobn^ ^'d£>^a^ ^ idgnsi
fhwn the vcistei ; sb ss^liigj he jump^ into ^ boat: Oti
read&ig the ship, he rigidft i^tiirned^^idi^thi^'^^^
c6tn^iments, who, baving his kidy aiidWd'chiidr^ k^bslr^
lequt^sted that we woiflifl^l them sottiii^'sWefet floiir and
Wscuit We itoicdisrf^ ttt up ah iassortment of Aes^
airticiies and sttine others/ \^ich the captain sent iviffn^ i^-
tum of his conipKrnents ; ahd, redeiVing the iiigniH, We
niife sail, and ptticd with ^fititual g(M tHMic*. ' '
■'If
■;.j!.'7bf'; ii:wN~J> .■ .'♦-■■:- »" »
^^ .^i^»
296
x9
Yf^^ttklfWLi dN
V -'^
The noHheriy ndnds stiU continued, and the* weather
was very wet and cold; but we made pretty good pro-
gress, and, by the 4th of May, we were within a few days'
sail of Cape Clear, when we were brought to and boarded
by the Dryade frigate^ of 44 guns and. 250 men, captain
Drummond commander. The boarding officer here was
also a S0otsn>an> and, like the' others |)ehaved with greal
politeness.'' h - 1 > .'
* He told' us they; had been one of tiie convoy to the
West Indi^ ileet, ^ far as the lati^ile of 30° ; that they
had been out five: i^Keeks, and were^.to, cruize betwe^ <thi^
(Jlhannel and Westen^ Islands two months. He reporfcrd
their longitude [^aibe ^^ 54' by tiie chronometer. Having
put a q!(i^tily, of fitters; on bo^ufd for pl^nf^andj he to^ U9
wenugl^ 9^ sail fis,' sopn as thev made the signals ij;^ v
.. ; A| we Wf^fe' laioyf^ d|mwing near our native shcrrc^, and
anticlpatii^g {|^ppy Ai^ting with our Iriends, we^weipeatt
in g9pd ^iiit^i; aild ha^ various tl^ea^cal represent^^kp^
ih;0ie ^Uiisfi^ grand sultan ^^d his faithful ;Aii
Shaekabe6,iiithidhgrea^ astonished ;aii0
Ci6mpan^.^ iWe bn^i^so a series of mpial regi^i^^
which Md at pretty, severe penalty on swearing., n ItW"*
appointed tlic^ exequ£pr of this branch |[^ the iaiyil^t I
sometimes fou^d a|djiffi.culty in putting/it into exj^iqutron,
partiiqularl^rfi^itii )ptir Liverpod merchant, who^ wl>$^ w<^
reachiEid'the Cliann^f told uS' flatly, that, /being^nqw: iM^ the
British kix^g'^ don>iniou8, he woi^;.swear< if lyeywerei all
d-^ piif^ As the gentleihan was tin((er Me |ff^t/ai(;e ^
Mif maiumyVfe lyere e-en obHgedrto submit to.rqy^ autho:
rity, (and the fines w^ere thenceforth remitted. .. > ^ni'.
We passed C^ Clear on thelOth^ ai>d hadaiineifiew
of the Irish coast, iirom the cape to the Old Head of Kin-
sale. At
boot cam
suadeus,
and that V
die£Uza
all hi» cai
"I^etty \
onl^ ^ back
aQd^teU^^y<
you,'^«id
about^ it all
nvthyouHM
gieatfaigsi
aying,he]
^^Onthe«J
sBntB^fipom 1
lotted the;
«iiam
tktwe wer
JMjj^ from'
staled fbimi
pair some ti
Abbut 4
btttlhe wine
tfe progress.
pwnd, and
s%iiidf whicl
board.
We imm
news, Imt he
VOL. I.
w
THE ATLAMTIC ilyCEAN.
297
sde. As we glkkd; along with a fiur wind,, a little pilot
boat cttne off from the land to meet ua^and tiy to per-
suade us, no doubt, that there would be a ^Ai/6f^storm^i
and that we must take a pilot and run inibr the jCoasL But
theCliza outsailed hkn, atel he feU a,|ittle astern. He had
all hi» canvas hoisted to the breeze, but without effect;
<!B3r J<A-<-s ! '. you sail d-^ — d sharp, cftpt^in," aii^ he.
"pjretty well," said the captam. *' Now, if you would
only ^back^ your ,^mizen-8ail a bit, J, would come aboard
aikk< tell: you all about ithe land." /' Thanlc you, tbw^,
you,'' said the captain, ", but I Mppen to know spmeil^ing
about^ it alieady." "Then you may go to the mischief
widi yourself," exclaimed Paddy ; "you'll be xatched in a
gieal big stoiin to-night, and the d--r-l make mattei,.'/: 1^
saying, he put about and stood toward the coast. , -^
'On the 4 1th we passed the Cove of y^Cork, whicjb 4)R;!i.
sents^mm aea a mo6t< picturesque view« .Qn ,thie 14^ w^
piBsedthev usurious! i^^ rock, well know^,^; sci^men
hf^^iht :name« of . Tusear. Next moinding we were round
Steito-l^trwhen we werr envel$|>ed # a/ogi«fq($,tbick
thttt we were obliged to lie to. Here^we found tp^^farig
Im^ from' Savamiah, in the same situation. Shevhad
soled fiEHirtfeen days before us, and was likely to g^j^ito
{Kxt some time after us. ^ s^
Abbut 4 o^dock in the afternoon, the fog q|eanei|;away9^
but llie wind veered about^ right ahiead, and we made li%
tte prc^^fess. -Next morning, however, we were on pilot
ground, and soon discovered a boat, to .which we ^lad^,
s^nai^ wluch was answered ^y putting one of her hands on.
. board. ■'•^ '
We immediately flocked round the vpilot to learn, the
newsybut he could teUm mthing, except th^t there was a
VOL. I.
2 n
jitiw .election in Livopool. He could astugn no reason,
t^iitsaid it was thougbt Mr. RoacoeJWQukl QOlbftiiBembei'
again j we w«r« lost in coi^cture. t I - ife i^t -^^f '
i The head winds, continued* and we did^nofc make the
nortk^weat buoy till, the a4lhf' when*! we wop© obliged to
,comi^ to anchor, Dunngthe night it blew a furious gale;
aat wtipere . ^ at^ anchory abi?eaat> of thft^^S&st-anchored
isle, V we did not ieel it much, but a pretty , lively idea of
it ^ma)r^be fomied^ ton. iki^ eap^^ account ;*hie said f^ it
waft/enpMgh tobtowthe baipiout of afetto^ahead*" The
gale ^iQQntinuei^iaU.ii@xt ^yviu^ Ihem wa^ no possibility of
g^^^ting on sh^)re, ihoug^^t wore ^evy anxious. ; At length,
adt«Q«ii 11^ a^.^ot boat hove in sights and we imtde
aigiial Jbr jher. > 3hiBn€2ime ^ong^ md%acidt<lientn€M^^^
yawl^ii^to whid^ the passengers got^ith oonsidtf9ble»di^
fi«»}t3Fi and, suck was the swell j thai iweweifei^JWje'^^^^^^
ilijth^ 300^9^ iiiljn]^^ of i^g^«ps«feb«foi«rJ»Jft ^
W<^!^ere iPc^iiip^^d^^fcK^^t^^
We g^t foifi/^^^i^Js^mi pot<ito^ia|)d M^0m»fmr
pers^ s^d here I made the. discovery, that a gi^t/pqlitiad
change J^d talseri plac;e jun Britain, wlu^ itUgorod ioiost
impprts^t cQiisequenGestathe world; aad par^i^ttlaf ly to
|hat portion ^f it vye had lately Mt-rrAjn/^vm* »
^ ; At^cme o^k)^ we landed at Hoyle-llke^^tifh^re^ ^lakik-
^,Qpd forx^ur and ki^g iCHjr par^ ear^, we
Ipaj^^d^omw^- tpii tayern in the^neig^ibburhoodt
^^iil|aying,^ati:^ laviein^ procuied^^ s^^ h!(»'ses,rand a
g|]idibi;|f> accompany u%,!»^ ait ooutfor Liverfiooli distant
about jeven milcs^ and a piet^ respectable caval-
caije. In cprv way m^ Jeiyoyed the land soeneiy is much
i^ WustCTiDg weath^^^?^^ W^ we
i^j^-im^'i .tm
THE ATLAKTIC OCBAN.
isi
were about'half way^'lTodc towardt the guide, imd aaked
howinvrnvfat from Liverpool. '* Moed I doan't know,"
said he; '* Oh," said I, ** I presumetyou are a stringer
here a» well as myself.'* ** ,^nanJ^* said he. *' Anan!'? re-
peated li wHh surprise, ''^ why , I suppose you have never
travelled- this road before." ^'O yeaz, zur, an hundred
tfmes." ** What, and don't know the distance we^haveyet
to fjo !** "Ko I doan't" ** Nor the distance we have come?"
<*No^no^thBt1leather." «*Nov the whole distance?^' *<N^;
i^ knowiiow to get^ ihear, and I know how to ^get hack
sgiean/'and'thaf s all I know about the meater*" ^ikre is
iii'^retty specimen of mtelligence, Uiinks-I-tO'>m3rselfi< Only
tldt^ of thtt, master Brodcf and contrast it with the keen
inquisitive disposition and shitwd answers of a A4»i^£ng-^
land mAn.
^ WettiSlcbed ihe feity about 4 o'cloek/ and immediatiely
etoBsed'^iver to Liverpool, where we agreed to readesvous
Sf te King^s Arms tavern; and constituting the Liverpool
melchant imr steward, to bespeak a dinner, we took each
0oriteveral way, as bui^ness^ or friendships directed^
m
i'ttmTiimf- •
i'lf
** ■■ ->mmt^^'
'I-
. . ■',
.•!>•>
' : • ■ ■■ . •
•1 i-;. . '1 ■ ■ - /■ ■■ ■ ' ' A*. [ ■ '-
J ^ ■..>.-
^^
%--!\. r ■ :'j!»Tiy"- % --^'k'T."
•'**-
f^im
300
tBAVBLS IN
'^"H*'
'^'■■^-mm^M-
CHAFTfiR XLV
m
m •'
*^ £ioerpo6ly''^Electi6n^^^Chamng the members.
aFTER partmg with the company, I went immediately
to the ooffee-house to examine into the' causes of the change
of' councils; and to form a judgment, iF possible, iHiat ef.
feet the measure would have upon the Amofican trade. I
took a file of the London Couriei on the one hmdj and of
the Morning Chronicle on the other, and traced' the whde
proceedings, step by step, titt I came to lord OrenviUe's
explanation in the house of lords, and that of Mr» Grey
ifi the commons. I saw that bigotiy, prejudice, 'illibetali-
1y, and corruption, had prevailed over virtue,'patriotisni,
and integrity. I exclaimed, woe is my country 1 and with
a heavy heart went to. j^in my eompanionsai the dinner
table* '- ■' '■'■^■w-M¥#titi*i»-' ■ '■ ,■■.,.,> ■,
1* The next object of inquiiy, and inf« wlach i was most
deeply interested, Was the probable'^ efiect« that ^fMs change
would have upon the American rekitions; and here again
my anticipa^ns were fer from bdng &vouiiri)Ie. 1 ob-
served diat one pat of the play upon the passions of the
Engliali nation, and a very «ucce8sfol Okie, was to hold out
the idea of a .** universid monopoty of trade." The doc-
trine was openly and loudly promulgated by ^ newmi-
nistry and their partisans : That there was no use irfe hav-
ing a naval force created at such an expence, unless it was
90 organized and condacted as to controui the trade of the
IBiraLAHD.
301
irorid in fiivour of Britaio. The sea ought of right to be
British property, aiid not a vessel should sail the ocean but
by British permission. Bonaparte had conquered all the
land, and Britain should conquer all the sea; and the late
administration were- charged with a criminal neglect of du-
ty in not enforcing these principles. I saw reason to dread
that they would be enforced now. I knew, or thought I
knew, that America would not submit to them ; and hence
I feared a rupture; I observed, however,* that Mt. Ers-
kine wa» to be continued as ambassador, and, reflecting on
the nature of the American government, I oonsidefed that
there would be no rupture on their part before they had
tried negotiation to the utmost. I therefore judged it ex-
pedientj under all circumstances, to go on with my busi-
neid, and to take prompt measures to make my shipment
gi«QOrdingly« ■ ^^'^*: **•■ • u:'>finr''-'.,ii .-?* .* »•.'•
. I During the few days I stopped in Liverpool, I was as-
dendy engaged in making^ commercial arrangements, and
had time for few remarks that woiild be interestmg to the
general reader; I shall thetefinre only notice two or three
circumstances^ calculated to show the temper of the times.
We were informed that there had been an election in
Liverpool two days before we arrived. The tory candi-
dates were, generals Tarleton and Gascoygne; the whig,
canctidate^ Mr. Eoscoe. ' Toty principles were tremen.
dously triumphant, so much so, that Mr. Roscoe durst not
even appear at the hustings; and his friend, colonel Ta}ior,
who was proceeding there in his behalf, was intercepted by
a band of armed men, and had his horse killed under him.
The tavern where we lodged was mostly frequented by
travellers on business, and the evenings were generally de-
voted to long and fervent discussions, some^mes animated
3oa
TKAVELi ni
defaiteB* As the company were ooUected fiponr all quar.
ten of the itfamd, we had a good oppcirtuni^' ofi Ickming
the public sentiment in general; and it appeared to me to
be in^fevour of the ndwmimstry^ by a Tast majority of the
leading men in the< country. ?'
1" During my stay in Liverpool^ ** the chairing of the mem-
bers,'* as it is called, took^ place; It was conducted in this
way. Chairs, of elegant workmanship, wepe provided, rich,
lyernamented wkh silks and drapery^ principally' of the
colour of the members' livery. They had cushions for
seats, and two sides supported a^ pavilion roof on each.
They were borne on appropriate carriages^ havingtwo
poles, and the candidates were carried on theni by^a num*
ber of men^ from the place of election^ through tiioae plEirts
of the town that £m6y or vanity directed.
In this procession general Tarleton took the lead. His
livery was' green, the other's blue* They were both rich-
ly dressed in regimentals. They stood up uncovered in
the chairs, and proceeded slowly ^ong, looking and bow-
ing in all dii^ctions to the populace, who, in return^ waved
istre^uners of gr^n and blue ribbons from the windows.
Round each chfufwere a numberof person^ cariyiilgpoles
with boards nailed to the tops of them, and labels pasted
on the boards. These also deserve notice. ** No popeiy ;"
" Church and king ;" " Long live the king ;" ♦* No dic-
tating to the royd conscience;" *' If I forsake my king,
may God forsake me," and a hundred other sayings the
presumed sentiments of the members, were thus exhibit-
ed to the multitude ; who, in return, testified theh* loydty
in repeated daps and huzzas, accompanied by flourishes of
blue and green ribbons. Even the members of the frail
<Hsterhood, with which the town swarms, were ikmrisMng
mnwujm.
30&
quar-
ttmiiig
me to
of the
Mnem-
in this
i,"rich-
of the
ona for
A each,
ng'two
a num*
aepiRTts
1 His
ifehfich-
/ered in
idbow-
, waved
indows.
g poles
[adic-
lyking,
■exhibit-
loyalty
risks of
frail
irislung
xmif> in green and blue^ in all directioos, dBoanrng^pink
and Mn Roscoe, and^swearing to theilr loyalty and tkqp
devotion to the king and the two generals. :
In the. afternoon, I met with a friend in the street,
2fid weradjoumedi to a tivem t(» get aome pQf!ler.' See-
ingannmber of people k :!x public room, I went tiiither,
and sat'down by a plain-lookingvinan, who was expatiatfaig
on the late election^ It was not all common sense that
berdeliveied, but^^it wa» auffieient to show lie was a poU^
tieianf and I enteredinto conversation^ with himi >' ObseiVi.
iag a piece of green ribbon^n his button-hotei I took hold
of it^ and asked him whurt he wore it for; *''€lk)d -Uess
thee$?> Asaid he, with a stare of amazement, **wl^, do'si^t
thee' know what that's vor? why, where^does thee ^cum
vrom ?** " From America, last," said I; ** Oh^ 1% war-
mUt you'll be a Yankee Boodle, and will have no zuch fii-
itfQ(u#^oihgs as these among ye. Now, I'll tell ye, this
is -tny^ltvery.?' - I pretended ignorances " Oh, then,^ ,
and Ir " you ale ^« livery servant." ** No,'V said^ he,
^'¥m vtyteit mani^ -** i ^ know ^that,'^ said I jx" I know
there are na slaved in this country." "Why, thee do'stt't
understand mej^*«ald he; *< I be one of the vree men of
Liverpool : I geid my vote vor our vaVorite member,
8nd'thi& is Ms livery*^' ^* Oh, ho," said I, a&etingad-
mir^tHn ^f hi» colisequence, ** you are« great mar, then ;
a voter, heyi" >*'^h, yes, I be, alid ourzide^s the
strongest-: we hnvfe^put 'em aH down. '^***f* Who have yoCi
put <tewnf*' "-Why, Roacoe flwflf lAwny te^ be sure r be-
cause Rosicoe's a very bad man. Why, -don't zU know
he was for thfe pcpe?" " For the pope! was he? why
that was terrible in him*" " To be^zure it was ; and he
was agaiost tine king : he- said he could get us a better
^1^^
lillii^yor ziz^poice ; zo ivie'U never luive him vor mem-
httuny maetJ^-'^wih vms tke. language of a Liverpool
^nemaat/ ,'::■■ . ^ ■■ . ■ >-^ '^Hr- -,,,.,
1 1 learned dial none but fivemencoiild VQte< for mei^^
of parliamcait; and that^ faifilBiieKofJpeenian coiM only
bexibtidnedKbyaeven years servitude to^#eemanf$f many
of fi whopn ai^ r^quaily inlipUigeqt withr tiny^^J^iaxd ?at the
tavern. - ,' -v; ■. ■•„, ^ ..
4 1
.;v>^^^jf¥*'»*;#*^;Blj
"*.•»>. (I
'■.■ii,f
m-c
KunxUskiii
m
■;. I ■
m-
■t
:'A
:hj;
b Iddi.'^ i s^e but >fcif Gla^^cniir, ' neGotitpaniecT by
<n6»idB ofirrp«Bsenlg«t«y wliose lived in thdt
<a^^^ Jfhe <:oiiipsey^^ teide to Carfi$le) was by
whstiscidled^&e heavy: or long^ coach/ and it took two
daya>to<pcifonh the -jcmrn^f 124 miles. 0'
ifilVjeistaited at 810F #x>'clock in the moft^Hg, and pastsk
in^.vthKmgfa Qmakirk and Preston, reached Lancaster, 55
miles from Liverpool, where we stopped for dinner* The
weather waisiagteeable;: the country] baUth^
weH cultivated^ eihkniting^aifery pretty appearance. Ofins*
liik ift' a plaoei of titlie consequence \ but Pveston has a
popblation of 14^000, and canieti od manu&ctures, particu^
Ivly in cotton, to a great extent. ^^
Jjonoffetf^ islthe ooimfy towHy handsomely situated at
the idaouth of the>ffiver Lone, and contains about 8000 in-
habitants. It has Gon^dekable commerce, but veiy little
to Ameiica ; its^ chief mailuiactures being ssdl-cloth, fur«
niture, hardware, candle^, &c. The dukeof Bridgewater's
canal tuns near (ianoaster, and crosses the river by a very
spaciousaiqueduct bridge, built of hewn stone, which has
a fine appearance when viewed £nom the road.
After dinner, we continued our journey 18 miles to
Kendal, where- we stopped for the ni^t. The country
vol.. I.
2<t
TBArmM^m
J^
itiill tfie iiii'ajr to^Kendalf «diid, ntainiitg^f^'tliraagh
\f cdUritiy, afTottlti niimy "^ne vicwsi -' ^ ^ ?^^>^v « ^
*i>j^Onȣ!''Qf ofur jNissengers was a shipping-merchaht from
London^' and he expressed his disapprobation of* <te^kle
Miiistiyfln'v^ seve^ ^enasj fiirfnot shu^g up^tfa&^ar.
l)^iAf'tri(dei'of^ Americans. 'Mf fettonv^^veUcF imd I
ciideaNroiired to reason with him; and' to'liQintiMit^im.
jiRMIil^ce 6f the 'American trade to Britain,' and the injus-
tiiQe ^ihat It wotlld be to isltop it : but^ilr Jtian' of coiii.
siferce vrould listtte^ to no reason, imd wdii)dvbend^to no
nlixims of jiuticew ^^ Wt are^trfe to cacijr'ofiUle whole
iradelof thfe wiarid;;'' 8aid'Ji6,*Hand ii« idibfl^^
%uf 'fleets are fdl-po^crfill^ apd^ we idiolild txiiki^^
^ib seemed' 1^ Ibrg^t, tbiit there afie lalwaifs^ two atia bar-
j^Kin^making^i and^that noDttkai' dm [tmttf dn li^'fiMgi)
it^die idG&m^ ■ • -'v;;.----: .^•' )-! ■ ; ■••ri <-,':' ':
^' JtfiMiytis betiiitifiiUy 8ste^ oointif,
4tid the women have cheeks Hke roaes; ' Itis a preitf > ktrge
tow^, and has codsifierable manu&ctories of cottpos^^oot-
Ijena^ jstddnngs^^hista^ li»^i some nf m^ih ace^iaaGUifited
fi^ 'die 'American tradei'-^ "■.■^- >r.}-'f^fi<* i\^^fi' M■^^''y^%<v/':
^: May 3Qdi. W« ad oufcat T^^'doc^^ themon^
^d travelled thioMgh a ipugh hflly coiuilliiy calledui^^i/-
JFeUs^Qri miles, to Penrith. The countijr b but ti^y
inhabited In this, district, and die ifihabitmts: ae^m t^ be
Ji(ioB% etilployed in'rdsing.sb^^ S^i%nm-
'X^^hm^k H « n^it Hide pUiee, cootainiii^ about SOOOfeo-
■i^. The ^xHintrf liortheeasti^rd %■ highfimd bano^but
h is fertile urthe w^wai4>'^9Rd^ldboiiildB in^^farivlngfiirRis.
rThe pQuntfey impiote^ toWdids iQariisle^ Iftimilesi^iftanti
round, wblitsh it i4 ^^tated lilce a garden.' f
J)-, f
gpingcp
sior^ngt
^'^.i^^milc
si»aPp|9ce
t >
large inlet fi
A fine fihami
Four mile
celebrated f(
gioillg^ to Glasgow J^yt^^ie l40^4pl^ ^ipduly, ^9^pqc^S||^
)i^iuiliouF|«pd, jp|l|Pipiie^ tii9ey wetQokftyvaU^tl^iaugh
.^ QifMtkM prettily 8^ti|^|fi4^,^, c$)P^m» .a ^pq^wl^tijo^
i^tlQ^^lOQ^ It i& fevqu^bjy ^i$ualied % c^^y ing 9|i mafl%
hi^ ppiireA<»Hpoc9iiai^^^ ,ji
aDt^oiiiated that we would suffer a tittle fi(W U^.^d^^aJli
k#pt w«*,^i?qul4,^^<gB^ M^^^^.^^^M M
. T?f|ir|R^^ pastil li^ofig^^J^fifffo^^
sqiiall pifice on the confiites of £iigl^4> ^4l^v^^!^ P^¥^
tkiftiWie crosied a little stream, and Jj^e^jl,
^"^ « Old Scotia, our ^eir, our riarfve sAik" ^* ^^
KeflR we hod 11 iffiy exten^'ve view, ^lu^y ,^, a veij
large inlet fixMn the Irish ae% was pp our Ei|^t ; afi4 bef,
yf«*^fellie iGunilPi^rtel^l^^ m^MJ^i C
glM^HMguHude^ aTo fto W^ i^orth'.we^ ai^, nor^
a fin&fihainpaign c»uA^>y pjn our rear towards CMisl^^
Fourmiles frwn hence j* the vUlage of Gretna Qrefh^
celebrated for the coupling blacksmith who lives in it.
806
^'■«rAY«l»*1IN
tws of marriage' vrScddand ate veiy smipIe'^U l(
agre^to many, tiieyMcaif carry tibeir imtttit&on
Into effect 'by declaring their union iiefctre wkneasto r and
thisy ^diough contrary to the rules of^^the churdiy and to
ihe geineril jpradioeof the QOuitti>y,^«onititiltes akigal'niar.
fis^ '.' ^It ift idso applicable^ to thctttidvto of Stou^ Britain
when^Oiey cometo^nor^^ on wbicii aecoiMtiitfitqQent.
}y happens,' thi^in^^ a genlienian'sM 1^ ki Enghuid U\
in 16vt;iiid cailnot li¥e%ithout ^ ottidiifeis WUIfe th^iat so
unfortonate Ha not to'be able to d^A'^d^xHsent^f their
^fiendsy theyniet off on it matriittOnitf trip tiiSetidand?; and
ihis beingfihe indttest ^itti^^<ott'diie 0Fd«b greaartoads^isuch
%iarrii^cs dire 'frequentFyisOleitiniz^ Ibre^ l^he ptraon who
^iwts m^piiifi^tn liie bcca^GOi, blil whii^ ki truth/ it'^Mily,
iakmg ivhhf jpiil^^ 6r^ t#o moi^ a' wHti^ to die'dedaikion,
is cdled?^ imt^img'bhckmftH^end the wliole drcum-
stance has^^^vea xise^ to a> huittoroi!is &roe,^ cidkd ^-©retaa
lib 1^ road beyond'tibis place was very foughibut# was
4iaitie ydr^itd^' >^Wt^^^ .^A^'i^i, ^ ^^^ '{>lace)
Wtdr&xki6d.M^^ sti{)per.
IPiisfis a litl^l^abe^ a^ hllls^' aiid"0i%'fneiiisr jid-
vjioe as> ^e^ stoppin^^place^ ^ the ' stages^ oik die wi^ tc^ and
fioRi Eiigland, There are some good medicinal Sfiftligs
Jn ity^ nei^itioiiiiiood^ ^^
> Leaving /Mofl&t^ we had tovoross a kli^ ^^lain^o^ hiUs [
aJbut I ean give 4IO particular adcoutitof the ^hfigliration
bf the country ; ^oo-, though I haVe oM>p!(iiiedi thirough
i^k, it has always been in the night; The night w«s now
very cold; but a gentleihan left die msdli-at Mo^t, and
thciulQj
Nln^^
and)>sucl
myself a 1
quendyp
ear. ;It i
heard bei
canna.get
other; ^,*.-
ittiinnna
^fKaiJ^
I could v>
got it tor
AI>oul
lli^inileS:
feirtiJe^valli
mualiawe
gpw^ live
We pas
-*' t
fitbn
rand
iid to
liitatn
loent-
ndM
i^ their
if; and
oil who
GtttlEtion,
^tm-
^Gfetna
bit was
|sitt)per.
ltd-
(hetailors'caU it;^^ spdl arid speB^tttiout'^dC t6ei<4i
M4n ^(tiiiSMWiiy w«t ftissed the ' 8eufce»»<xf Uie* Ci]
toiJiKad hills^ toithe right, and journeyed onwand at a
good^paoe^' «^ As ^l^^waa takiag^ my outside stadoA,^ about
da^-'Mghtrt'^ heard a dialogue between th&two ^vers in
broad '^ScotSy being the first I hadheard^ for • 14 •^^liionth^;
and^i such b the^«^eotof. halnt^ that, although I^consida^ed
in3?setf a son of adept at the Scottish language, and hod fre-
quently piAeitised it, this had a suiprising elect tqxm my
etr. ik i^^ieared more broad^nSxm any thing I had ever
heard befoipe. ^ ^*^^A, Johnny, iQiki," si^s the^ne) ^f * I
eamia.get this thing fixt*^ '> *' Caa ye-nof said the
others ^^-wfaat aik'df " i. *^ Goth) I dimia ken wed ; but
itrtm^nna draw dirough wi* me,'' 4* Ye'll better cut4t.''
*f Ka^I^Uno fash to do thaty«t; PU takrmy^teethttili't?'
I leeuldinot' see what they wei^ about; but they ^aoon
got it to rights, whatever it was, and we drove ort. -v ;
^ , About sun^rise, we reached the village of Hamilton^ the
saal^fcHie of the most ancient j^ of Scotland. Iiis
Uj^miles Irom ll^^sgoW) on> tfie river Cllyde^^ in n^ine
fertile' vaUey^^aodisv noted foT; imsing Mt^ A great maay
mualiii weaver8,v«who worlj; for the manu^ctuiers of Glas-.
gow^ live at this. place, i Indeied, they are s^xltt»^^«ll
.'<nr0'#i^;OQun^.r. .■:'?.■••■. i.r^./
We passed Clyde irop-works, the second in eicteiitr^
SciQtlapc^ and j^hed Glasgow at ^ o^loc^, when Phad
a jcfy&l meeting witb my fiiend% after an abaenciQrjof
'■-e^-- 'y
/<'
ktW;
TJMtVSM W
•■„' >>■■
;#*'
•'n I
.^s^-fi^mifi.nyt .>;44/
, jM|||MU|^^ug|^|u|i|j|k^g|y|M||||Y .,1 4,
CHAWT5R Xi-TH. '^s»^
I CONTINUED in OkBgow until the 19tli of June^
vsheHfttk prctoectitien «f ^n^^ ceommercial buaumsi I aet
out f^ Etiglandi I ttfok a passage by the mail coacb^
and travelted thrioagh Carlisle and Preston, to Mandxsatar;
l%imoiaRtry' fh^n^ Picstoit to Manchester is:^ piobah^
IMbng tile i^hitsA W¥.t)^ttaidi « The fidds aito 'wdll cttlti;
vaMd ; die housed af<k ^dmt^ tkkt it\66ku lake # omd^
licned vifiage; ttid'tfab iqiuKitti^ of maehineiy: amibleachi
B^^ ^Aatmttyvi^tiiite lapptsm h knmense. < The toai
pfiSses^Hhfoygh Ohailey and Bdton, both manttiiGtiirhig
▼ilhges ; but the whole of their trade is subselsiieMt to
MiiiitheM^^' uAMi fa&y be oonsiddnd as the i^geii^mmxi
Mitflnif eapdt#Of 4dl £tiglaiid»^^ T^ 9k».
tOn^ MaOdiestil^ '30'ttlil^^^ Jay^ s*?*,^:^, .....;-, ....u .vj^ii,a*:«v
^<^|i|poiii' Matii!lieflli<r' I fmtiiiit k mtamef to fo tb Mm*
{Mi^ distant 36 nUles, The road passes iltfou^iandii
iivlll«atiltlvated^ levd' Gouhtry^ in whieh v^i^ tira coiisidei
rtiblr ViRages, Warrington and Prescoft^ ^ !flte mdiAry
bikidin^ moiie sterile <tdwards Uveipool ; but^thii ff^ ^
k is bieautifkd bjr maiiy setitsj the^^^^
f^l nierchants: Amcl»% the number is^ififeidcli^
seiie of ®r. ^caotno^eif ^BtOm^G^eta memori/iOdi^ti
the most beau^l'buUdhtgs in England. '^ ^ i*^ 4:* .^.^
Mf o
of bttsb
tiourseo
itoedifatd^
«
flistancei
my busi
excellent
manuiact
pUcatioiii
T^Maneh
o4^ great.
te>Romi
44ia man]
■htmt^OQ
ptodatu
:>'iftlanii^
wards ofS
lnit-the>en
Utended
Ihbi^intBodi
,cogtneyi«x<
itaoatoid
^puiallyin
tioDuif the
bmnberd'
*radearef^i
^msmuam.'
311
I set
CQACb^
hsstef*
dbtkAf
lexitto
iiiiimt-
». J ^ „
mtiy
rtf^ the
«.*•:
r Mif oommerGial friend in Liverpool being a proi
of buainessj I made an arrangement with him, in'
cotine of a few houra, to my entire satls&ction} and im*
itoediktdy returned to Manchesttir; From the ample as^
sistance afforded me by my friends^ I was able to expedites
my businew in this place with great celerity, and I had an
excellent voppoirtunity. of observing the ^vcry extended
manufactliites and commerce of this place, and their i^
plication to the American trade. >> v^ I
f>^Mandieilflri though it nmks only as a viUi^ isa^ place
ol^ great . antiqnity^a* town having been utilised , hete by
di^jfioQuoMtin the i^7!th year of Ihe Chriaiaaik aeta, md is
iMKW^^iik point ^of population, the second town in Enfgatid^
44in manufikfitures, decidedly the fimti ^he streets ate
ahMit^OC^hi tmmber, and some of them iipaciousf but a
fTQit^ ttunyi' are^ too aamowj and the; town is^ upon the
HA/th-iAttxy ifvegular* The ^number* of hou^^ is com-
pitd at' iq^pfard^ ^ X2»0Q0, md the iidiabitaiitsi amount
sviifanu^ieliiiefthave^been estabhal^ place'&riupi
i«aidttof'dOO'^«ai%^iuidvhaye been conlami^ encrpasing;
but theiencrease since the iq^plicatifiin of maduipefy , on an
eitnided 'scnle; to:^ cotton trader' and^/^paitic^ilBilyshice
dio«:«inlBodiiclim-^Qf &hon and ; rWatt^s improved steam
,aigine,4exeped9 all ; former f exajaaple,^ in any places or any
cimnti^. . IFfaere ace* a vast number of cottcm mills erect-
fld^^ilir: tfaetito^, and maH^ o^ ithem emplc^ upwards df
llQQQv luHids^f ^ ^jfi^ie i^ raw ^material i consumed
iinnuiEilly >jn4lu$ %brwch,. is immense, and a 'oare • enumera-
tidn&of the articles it is mami£|ctured into^ wpi4d fill a
nomber of pages. Those most calculated for the American
tiade are fustians, waistcoatings, shirtings, cambrics, dimi-
SJfi
Tm^MUtB JM
iWroray^ table napery, atookings, glove v bnc<% bed-
^itilli^ fcq.-ftx« Of otiier artklea there are atao «xtenaive
ttod in^xirtaiit iiiiain]iiiBtiivea» auoh aa h«t%* ailka, ..tapesi
firitigfa, laoea, 8ic. ;, and Manphealcr i»a gfncral inarto for
the viiatiuftctiirea of the whole oounliyrpaitkularly every
deacripaion of ;WOoUeiMk r
9^ From Manebealjer I, travelled to Buiy^ nine, miles,
thiODgtean uiieiKfvi, btit^feitile and wtU-i^iltivatedjCountryt
' The principal .manu&ctures here are wooUena^iwrticularly
plaini»pqiting«»blankieta»jmd flannels^ , ^v jjKfiut^^^nm^ :
imfffHn Bury |o Rochdal^^ia ^.miliaif the /wnntxy neartjr
th^ am^^^aa Ihe^ last mentioned. Heie are iMmaa^^
mam^ietiireii^paKticiilarly fianaela of a veiy e;^«i9lkjnii<^alii^.
Fro^ BioGhdale to Hali&x ia 17 mtlea». paiftfy utfairou^
ail ^e»l«Bfiiy« moor,! sIokI Ae whole countiytia hiHy».8Qnie
of :)it iromantii6.^4 ntAt Halifax there are very yextenaiw
■waiiMforjrureaof wooilena, partkaulariy of :broQdr)aninam>w
■V>:-'f -■.■'■,-»'li^*,'
If Irfiim ^Hali&|Lv/t(|;^ luoeda ia 16/mflear* tfarougb a.hilly
!^miRti|r,ij<^t wtehfjtheiaoii imprai^loirardai^llicr^lattttr.
H^ «Ii«eda ;i8;beaiiti&ill|pvaitiiated In a vei^ ^ftile voountry^,
anil:ia die .^raa^atitownwiJ^nglaBdlQiithe vi^^ manu^
fiaotnifis* The jnoBl impiftant niaiwifaetu«»iM: America
me^. . broid > a^d nairow lM)»^;^annej8j ae^ge^^ioaflamvpiees,
callimaticoes^ duranta^ htebazeens^^bomfaasetii^ bbiikfitS)
ali«pniito,^in owpdiib. ^ ^Tl^^^ooiis^ <^coii^i4a |^^ and
Fcom tlKJa phK^ Iipa^iied about IS. nukii^ ithroiigh a
pretty well^aetded country^ but piaprdy xnoofi to the : great
London road, with the view of taking my passage for
■«'^
bed.
niivc
etfor
every
nulet,
untry*
^ukirly
f
neaiiy
tu#ty.
lenMW
fluarQW
axhiUy
ttef*
ounlvyf
^toim
fha
eat
for
ISnolahik;! dt3
GlaigQW by > the.) Londcn mail. .When the mail (^qplpe
forvmcd it was fuU, aii4 I was disappointed i but a oMidil
paiaed soon after fot Newcastle, and bemg informe4'thae
tlie^ine was continued liom thence to Edinburgh, I availed
myself of that conveyitooe. '*¥Mi.
It was about 11 o'clock at night when we set out, and,
travelling all night, we passed through Northallerlon, about
30 miles from where we started, at day-light next mom*
iiig. The eountry^vl was informed, is pretty fertile, and
wdi cultivated^. ' '>.'^.-.<:^'^;'ii;rf-^.'*' .- -.^
From Northallerton^t to Durham is about 27 milev,
through a poetty fertille' ^country, and Durham, the capital
of ithe county of the same name, is beautifully situated on
tlie«iv«r Wear, surrounded by very fertile and well<4iulti'
\«toi 'fields; - ,
!' S«K>m Durham to Newcastle is 16 miles^ partly through
MIe fields^ but the soil becomes worse towards New-
Glilfe^:^ an4tHv tlnutHne^bourhpod the coimtry abounds
with eoal^min^i We had frequent and extensive vieWs
ofitllieA'GenaaB Ocean by the« way; and I oould not help
canttaating tihe bRoiMir' of i Hxt country, not much more
tlianmr<l^'^«4^"^^ '**^ ^^^ country which I
had'^lat^fMfe*^ Ought not Britain, exclaimed I mentally,
tO)ibeprou:d!t'«i»'h^ing>settled< America, to^ conciliate the
dfeqtiolis of;»to >gcQilfring pofMlati cultivate a
^)Newcai[tte.i»'8itualBdonMtll0; liver Tjme, and is lai^i
and populous,! bbt is jnvguklr,^^^^^ not very dean ;- it 1$
chiedy remarkablei for its great coal trade, the greater pcttt
oft^the -supp^^of.tfae En^h metropolis being derived
fiom it.- , ■ •.>, '^:v^ • ','■■-■■;,''■ ■■ ■• ■ ;.*: ■
Yoi..«<,r*a
Sf*:
ij*r
^.2■,'R
feyji^
114
TKA/VBLI IN
Jim lito|iped«tt night, and sttfted b|r the <xwcb Jbr
Edmburgh next mornings at 5 o'clock. At 14 miles
firom Newcastle, we reached Morpeth, an inqonuderabjb
town, and, 19 milea further, we reached Ahiwiok, the leat
of the earl of Northumberland. The caatleia beautifully
situated on an eminence, and it is auntninded by a high
wall at a distance, which encloses, I presume, nearly 300
acres of ground, all laid out for grazing. The. whole has
a most magnificent appearance. ¥,rom Alnwick toBer*
wick is 27 miles. In the whole distance^ from Newcastle
to Berwick, the country presents a pretty uniform appear-
sinoe^ The soil, except at some particular iplaces, iSi<rB*
ther thin. There are high lands to the west, and to the
east is the German ocean, along which the. rood runs
within a few miles the whole way. Towards Berwicky it
18 almost close along shone.
Berwick is situated on liie Tweedy near the border of
Scotkndi and is a pret^ populous^ but^^irrsgubily buik
town, and carries on oonsiderabk matiufactures.! But it
is chiefly remarkable for/ the ssdmon /fiaberies^i^hichare
voy extensive^ aqd empfey a nuroknr of ismflU vessels in
the London trade, called fieni^ck smacks. .• --n
A few miles from Berwick, w^pa^dthe^^ Scottish
border, at which a house was pointed^oulii' wtoematrimo-
mal contracts are made omdiie same.principl^ as^ at Gretna
Green. After passing this place; the road ktveslhessea.
ooes^ loid crosses the counHyithrough^ekvated kmds^ but
ai^sr^y ^ret^ fiertile, and^midec exoeUent^ciihiyilion;
and ^s •oondnues to Dui^ar, towards Which the. rood
approaches the coast of the Firth of Fordi. \v
^^ Dunbar is a pretty large, and ancient town, ^ finely situ-
ated on the Forth, from whence there is an elegant view
«l
•COTLAXB. 9U
of thB singular rock oaUed the fiais, North-Bcrwick Iaw»
the coasts of the firth, and the interior of the county cf
Fifth It is 11 miles from Berwick to Haddington, a coosi-
dciable place, and 16 miles more to Edinburgh, the capl>
tal of Scotland. In all this distance the soil is excellent,
and the agriculture in the most improved state. We
reached Edinburgh at 10 o'clock at night, having travelled
this day 120 miles. t^
Edinburgh is, widiout exception, the most beautiful
city that I have yet seen. Its situation b singular. To
the eastward of the city is a conical hill, called Arthur's
Seat. Its base is probably about half a mile in diameter,
and it is 700 fleet high. To the north-west of this b a
ridge of hills called Salisbury Craigs, probably about one
ihinl of a mile in length, and about 350 feet high, havuig
a steep acclivity on the west, which overhangs the eastern
part of the city. Near the focA of these the city commen*'
oes, and from thenoe the High-street runs due west about
a mile, rinn^ at an angle of about 10 degrees from the
horiaon, and at its extremity is terminated by the Castle,
on a rock, from whence there is a perpendicular descent
of about 350 feet. This ridge is only of sufficient breadth
on the top to form the street, from whence it immediately
fidls by a steep descent on both sides, and nearly to a level
with the foot joi the High-street. To the south, a narrow
street, called the Cowgate, runs in the hollow, and, be-
yond k, llie ground j^;ain limmediately rises, and spreads
oUtintoioi open plain, on which stands the south part of
the town. The hollow to the north is called the North
Loch, because it was once filled with wafier, but it is
now drained ; and to the north of it the ground riaes> and
di6
T|IA:¥BLB in
spreads out' into a fine plain, on whidi the New Town is
built.-: V,.., .. . • -;?-^ , ■ . --•.
*^ To the east of the New Town there b a smaller hil}^
ealled Calton HiMy which is public property^^ and affoids
fine walks, and most agreeable prospects. «♦ . »* . .- ;.> 4i
::i «.The Old Town is remarkable for its singular configu.
ration, and lofty houses, some of them 14 stories high;
and the New Town, whether we view it in regard to the
elegance of its plan, or the regularity^ symmetry, and
beauty of its buildings, is, beyond all comparison, the
most elegant city I ever saw.
> The Old and New Towns are connected 1^ the North
Bridge, an elegant building, which crosses the North
Loch ; and a fine street . is continued across^ the High,
street, and by the South Bridge crosses the Cowgate, and
connects the south part with the north part#. This Mdge
has elegant buildings On< each side, except at the middle,
where they are interrupted by the CoM^te^ and here the
view is as singular as can well be imagined: being de-
yated on the bridge, you see the busy Jnhabitantsbek)W,
|o tJie east and wfpt^ the whole length of the street i ^r
% Leith.is considered as the port of Ectinburgh^ and is
connected with it by a very broad avenue, nearly) two
miles long, called Leith Walk. The whole population of
Edinburgh and Leith was, in 1801, 82;36a
■-■■_■ The whole adjacent country abounds in rich ; scenery,
^nd weU cultivated fields and gardens; and frontits pecu-
liar coi^urarion, it exhibits a greater variet^^f^jlaeisr Jews
than any other -{dace l-have. everjseen.>*«»f^fi«"''iff«?^?^t
#,;^£dinburgh is the seattof the supreme oouTt, ;a())d the
law has become a fashionable study among the nobility
and gentry of Scotland ; the greater part of whcmi have
b4L^
^ci^Ttxiilfr
W!
er hUl;
affords
'■'..' '■. .
oniigu-
I lugh;
1 to the
ry, and
on, the
eNortii
» North
e High-
;ate, and
s bridge
middle,
here the
dng ele-
St. I ^■
ai9d is
arly) two
ilation of
scenery,
its pecu-
views
and the
nobility
have
thehr wihter readftnee in the city. ' This dreumstance not
only affords a permanent fund for the support of the tfky,
biit forms an assemblage of beauty ' and fashion nirely
equalled, and the winter assemblies and fashionable parties
have a brilliancy aiid splendour not to be found, probably,
in any other part of the world.
The seminaries 6f education, and other litierary and
scientific institutions, are known and prized all over the
Ae world." Asf die city draws^ its pemiarient stippCtft fiy^m
land, it has^nbt its de^^dehce on foreign commiercfe, like
the manuiacturing and comnidfcial cities. Though the
manu&ctun^s are considerable, they are mostly calculated
for ifitemal trade. i*^^ >*k t;>^^ >»u
''nie state of soci^ is, ' gfeheralty speaking, excelfent.
The people aire tVell infdrmedj frank, and generoXis; As
to^e ladies, they are elegant to a proVerb. Thosfe" t^ho
htti^e^er be^ on " Leith Walk in the gloaming,'* ^d^n
hear^^^hess to^^ir *• anigelic fbrihs;'* theii- " rosy c<^
plexibrts;'' aiidthfeir ** Pitching ^iles." But as I niight
he accused 6f psfttialit^ fbr iriy fifflP cauntiywOTnteri; \vere
I to sp«^^yMhdM thi^'snbject, I sh^ll Me niy Ifeave
ofthe Edh*fl)u<^ladiesrby*^ddre§sii^ tti^ ydtmger t^^rt
of theni^ im the wcmxIs of RdbeiV Burn^ :'
, . And send ye lads in plenty.
<*f^^the^lea^ S^otfei^ #*4 o»clb^ aft^-
noonj^^aiUd'fefkJhed Glasgow, 42 rhries distaiit, si^ qiiartfei"
before 10, which was pretty quick travelling.' I hate fS^-
quehdy heard it remarked; that the Telegraph, bjrVhich
I travified, is imder'^better regulations than any |iublic
coach in Scotland^ except the Mail, In the first 10 or 13
m
VttATHtS tS
miles ©f this joiitticy^ the country is pretty rich. The lieitt
14 miles, it is cold and bleak, and but little cultivated. To.
%vaids Glasgow, the soil again improves ; but, generally
speaking, the landd are much infi^rior to what they are in
the ndghbourfaood^fMEitiiibiirgb: ^ '
ip
^v : :t^ ■ ■':"^mm*^?-~..
•t^.
m- .■'■■■ ■ ^ ■ •.
.%-. ■■■'■•
5^.f,*-. ; ^ ■ . . ■ . ^ » r - . .: ■•■■ - r
»>* .•S><'*.'i. iSniiJI"* a' « > , iii'.i/-
I -■>
■ ', ■'"' 1
' .\ . !*
:>mf j« ^«
eiiett
, To-
nmlly
are in
*^P^^** ^ " IR;"
'wwB
liilitlllMiii f^-
^^'•>
.*.^. CHAPTER XLVra.
'*W
OhsgoWy^SHrKngt^-Creiffl — Methvetiy — Perth.
Having completed my shipments, I had now little else
to do but wut the return, and c^ course xould pay some
attention to public matters. The plans of the newminis*
try soon began to develope themselves.' One of the most
successful engines which they had used to oust their pre-
decessors, was to charge them with want of energy ; and it
became necessary for them to support their character by
adopting energetic measures. Accordingly a great big ex-
pe^^itioit was prepared, with much solemnity and parade;
and having looked about in all directions for an object to
tuveck the vengeance of the nation upon, they hit upon
Detknark. Denmark was a neuurd and fiiendly power;
but that Was of no importance, they could'there^ strikie a
blo# with effect, mid convince the world of the ixemen-
doui^ 'power of Britain, and the energy of her ministers.
The blow was struck, and a terrible blow it was for Den-
mark;^ but it was more terrible still to Britain: it laid her
honour low in the dust, and pointed her out as the enemy ^
of thieiuvilized world. ♦
I dreaded that the next blow would be struck at Aihei>
rica ; and so it was^— but in a di£b%nt form : it was a blow
at neutral trade. The famous orders in council made thdr
sKppearance on the llthof November, 1807, ^nd at onsjkil
■t
■%
djptw^iPrQgiiM^ the pi|5jB?4puri#bi»g trdjj^pf^^
^i^Pepple of all ranks were astonished at these proceedings
Q^tifie l?!*bi!Bj^t.j Jtjvai^ spine .Iim€»iind^e4, l^^ithe-^tature
of th^ (a^§^ p.,C)Q!|EyQU^^i9^ unflers^^ ^uch .was the re*
markable pbscurity, of the language in which ^ they were
drawn,, an(dord€^foUQwe4uppn .qrclprst^w^ mon^th, or
s|x weeks, to explain them. But their effects were soon
fttess^y J*P m^iit W£i9 eyidfc:iit that the American peqjlft ne-
vj^r, wPMld submit tq theiut ; iand J. dioughti I had good tea-
spnsfpr fonning th^t opinio^. I had recentl}^ returned from
>4n;^^ic9* J had^ardeptly, studied ^ geiuius and powetr of
that people. X kn^w that their spirit of sitern indep^ence
M[qiil4 n^ver ^bmit to be dictaitied to. where ; they ^should
G^y their own, goods ;if^. -their pwpi vessels*:, v J, icalculs^ted
thai; they hftd pqwerotc^j^^P wi^ioul Britij»l>v^adejiifut^^
wiai(S ^i?*^! to:^. 1 J l^qinbl^ifpr tb^ re^uit, ml Itwecp^
e4l)y,ai^ticjipa|ipn, ajkjtiie riMii^ pfi ^(tainoss j^t Jihfl4 pT'*
g^?ed with such tet)9ur,? and in which ^ll mjj^caf^tJ^ and
aU ri^y,gre^ |iyeii;,emb^ked! Put |i. spM^tery ii)^4^^
lyliat Qpuki 1 4^1 tibo^^whO; wielded :fti& ppwiw: ijf .^
cpwfMJK^ W jf^^s^ rti^rA^wS; and: it ;^ of %tCti
T^ei?e -Wlis #J a faint, g^^n^ei^ng of hope l^t, that^p^^lia-.
m^ nf^ight)^^ i|s wisdom, repeal the c»ders in eouncil j
aia4 jii4^8 i]t^xpl^#i^l'^ *o,cors*4bute^^
ledg€ to an iUustripus and independmtniemher of th^ hO"
nQurable bpdy, I wrote thp letter Ui tl^e Appe;ndi2{;, JSfp. 2.
Ifi^^wing: J^is letter^ J 9Qi>sid^f4rit r^y p4w^ iP giy^ a
sj>(^^9t!ch pf tl>e vif w. ,i5?Jji9h myphse,r]i^ati|ttu$ kd.niecto
tajs^e jpffjthei Jim not only as. aj^ a^^t, Qf,'\grap
t^de ief JJiCf fkjqad hospifcllity of that people^but l^Gfiusi^
it w£^ the i^hion of the day, and supported by one, of the
^COTLANll.
321
molt poimkr-of the pibrk)dia4.¥hrittrsj to traduoe and vi^
lify the ecnintiy fay every iying stmy that could be laid
Tlu8 tetter was drawn up about tlie 20th of January^ but
it was not sent off before die 27th, by which thne wd;had
the news of the first fruits of the orders in council-^^t^
American embargo ; and this brought matters, as fiur as i
was concerned, to issue. I knew from My letters that adt
funds would be locked up ill Georgia ; I could t^oulate
upon no time for a return; so I made the best afcranget
inent that I could devise, under existing circumstancesi
and resolved to wait with as much patietice as I could £[^
the lesuk* -
u^liaving completed this arrangement^ I took a journey to
a^ my f^tions in the east country.
: On the 1^ >of March, 1808, I lei^ Glasgow by th^
gtage for Stirling, distant 27 miles. The first 13 miles Is
Arougbapiet^good country to l|ie village of CumbemaUild,
pi^ipally oi^upied by muslin weavers. Two miles be*
jGQpd ttus the road passes the Fo#i and Clyde canal^ a
work of greait utility, by which there is a skx^ navigatoi
from one side of the island to the other. Four miles from
thence there is, an extensive printfieldt after which the rdad
passes through a dreary moor, tjU wpthin two of three niiles
of &iiiing, when the Carae commences, one of the most
fertile spots in Scotland^
Stirling is situated on the Forth, at the head of sloc^
navigation^ an<^ is a place of great antiquity, having been
long the residency of the Scottish .kings, and i» distiR<>
guished in the history ef the wars with England. It b si-
tuated on a hiU, somewhat like Edinburgh, terminated by
a castle, fipom whence^ there b one of the most niagnificent
VOL. I.
2 s
3d2
TBATBL8 m
i^ewt m> ScoUmid. . Stilting eoncal^' about 5SXX> people,
n^ ttrryaa coiisideivdisieixiflim^cmre^jvof Wluch carpet-
ing is the cluef:
"H^ From Stirling txl Duntblaiie is six mUes^ and the road
ivinds Ahvough a coumtiiy as romantic as^ can' weU^ be ima-
gined. It is the opening of ' the OphiU iHitts^ in which is
the cohfliieiQceolrthrto considerable fivers, the Fpr^, tbe
Tdth, and the Allan. h
Dumblane is situated on the latter, and is a flmaU^ place;
abounding in little dirty houses^* but ornamented with the re-
mains of an okl cathedralL - From hence the itod continues
itongthe north side of the Sheriff Moor^ wdl known in Scot-
tish history, 11 miles, when it winds to the nordiward, and
phypeeds through ikm M^dor of QrchiU, a veiyelevated^coun-
tiy^ from die summit of which there is an extensive view,
wtience 1 could db^ryihe seat of my nativity^ ^ miles
distant' '•• • '■.- •■' '" ■•' ■" i-'V^^'i ^-.
^iife FlasMng Mtithil^i^iisinGlll' viU^, the countrjri in^MPibvi^
Mtw4i miles to the^bsttdti^ df ^tiie liver £m^ w^ibE'^cit^
M'by a gbodistcHiie 1^^^^^
aci^i(^^ i)f half a«idA^,^ Whettv tefi% situ^ the brow
0(fa*liiB/4s^ villaigeofCa^EFi'^ -^«i^ - k^ < - 1 r
teThis^ is but' a^ i^maM^'pl^ldi^ but it was kiteresting to me
as4emg tiie country^ iny ancestors^ I speitt some^litde
time ai^iking myiieltttions, and then set forward fer Meth>
•*f!en,> distent 11 miles* The country between Gricsff and
ll^^Sfiiven Is tolerably gbod, and a turnpike road liaa lately
Mi^iaiadei which rendaB^travelling veiyrpieaianitiand ex-
pectit&is.>- ' \ .;'■■■' ■- ::r-,;--'-v. .:'.|-''^j-?^;iitev<^^r^
I Having spent a few days at this place, I shall avail my-
sdf of the c^>poitunityito introduce an accoimt^^^^^
tive pomh^ which wi^ serve to illustrate the parish estabr
lishment of Scotland generally.
:•»
SCOtlCiftlfA
52S
carpet-
le road
3e ima-
'hichis
l#if the
i,k
■41 ■
1^ place;
btJMre.
)iit»iues
in Scot-
iard,afid
sd'^oun-
veview,
torbves
^croiss-
tty^tec^
he broiw
t&me
mie^littk
Heff and
las lately
and ex-
■ V ■ '■
ivailmy-
W^na-
}h estabr
Thi^ VinajsetQf^MMhven 18 8iliiii«id^ miles ttt the
wettwrard^'Pcrth^t^^tfaeparrah^M^^ by FoivMs d«
the west and nolth ; by Moneidy and Redgorton on the
east; and Tippermoor on the south; ' Its : extreme lengtb
is i^out seven miles, and* breaddi three. Its area is about
19 square miles,: and its contents in acres 12,100.
The surfiioe is . midiilatin]^, some part of it hilly, but not
mountainous ; it ik well suj^ed widi rivulets and springs;
and "the river Almond^r a romantic stream, abounding ia
fi^* i and mill-seats, runs along its whole northern borni-
dary, a distance of six or seven milesw
lite soil is very unequal* About five square miles con-
sist iai mootv which is unfit for cultivation, butafibrds
turC and heath for fuel, and some little gpizingb^^ Two
miles ^consist of moss, ■ which is altogether unfit for any
agricultuial puipose ;^ but a£fords excellent fuel, called
there peaisk Two miles are in wood, called the wood of
Mefd^en. ) Sne nulof is occupied with ^hi& pokcies fsSMs^-
ym toas^f and about^ as mudi with those of Balgowan.
(M the eight remaining ]i^e%, one thifd may be reckoned
ra^i^ pooCj but the Teniainder is good fertile land.
The whole pari^ is owned by two proprietors, thence
cj^ed hmtors^ GolonelrSniith, of Methven, has ^^the
largest poFtiony probably not less than three fbtirths, and
the 'renuttnder belongs to the celebrated general Grahamf
of&lgowani There was until lately another proprietor,
who owned* an estate called Tippermalloch, consisting ^
about 700 acre^ of excellent land; but not being ent^ed,
it was sold, on his demise, by hk heirs, to Smith oflSledi^
vei^fori^.iTj00a
The present population is 1280 males, and 1373 fe-
roalesf In all 2653, being nearly 140 to the square mile ;
9U
vMmM'VH
ivlil<rfi% «^gita«t "ti^lMaDeti, wheil/iiiw'iiobtidttrliitfsniidl
<|iiafitit5r of gODid ia«d in th^ pariah/ The tMil immber
of faniiliea in 577; of these, 137 are emplojred in agrieul.
ifiN^ th^ 'tfetmaitider in tMdea and Muniftftt^res.' ' The
niiHinheryif ifdiabited hoifaes ib 447, of whieh 149 are in
tib^ village of Methven. The nun^ber of ftmiliea in the
vlilage ia 24$; •fS'Of whom are employed in figricuhiire,
the real hi manufiustm^s, trades, 8cc The total number
di inhabitants in the village is 950 ;: of whom 100 are wea«
vet«, 18 shoemakers, 17 masons, 9 taylors, 10 wr^ghts
(tsarpemers), 4> stod^htg-makers, ft dock-makers, 2 tnttch.
ers,^%ild 7''Storc^keeper8. ^^-'^'^-^ ,.'^.'' ' ♦ '■ ?•.■.-■.. r. "
^( The whole land m the parish being entailed, thlffiunnen
occupy ^didr ikrms on rent from die proprietovs ; and huid
lets at present from £. 1 10«. to £»SSsi steiiing, annu-
lalfy, per Sebtsiacre, which is about one fiAli moie than an
Bn^hh acre. The farms are geiien% let on° ktea of 19
yiearSi ■ ■ - • ■•■■ ■■"• '• ••■■■ ■
The legal provinon for die minister of th^ parish con-
^iilmwwhm^}^ts2^l(^ f9bmiSOmN»6i land,
(^led^ the gMfh ittid the remainder k paid by the heri-
tdrs, idhb generaHf ihdemi^ diemsetve^ by assessing it
oh the fdJNfhers tO' whom they Ik. di^^tod^' Thev whde
of the ifiinister's ii^come in this parish, i^ about 'J^'SOo.
The average in Siiotlaind, generally may be reekotM about
-■j^i 200. In every parish diere is what is called' »patnHf
#ho has the g^ of presentation ; that is, when s vacancy
takes ip&oe he provides^d candidate of his ch^^, aiidjMv-
seritshbiT Jo the people. If they vote for 1dm, he is thence-
forth' miniiter (^ "dve pariiih r if they are dissatisfied, ^he is
s^led t» fmnister of the parish, wA^M^ tkej^ vnU^miiot.
J[n conse^tience of thb law, a great schism txmk place in
thechu
peoplo I
iegrfpn
a gardei
ekilir 8
sidea^ 1
t«»lypa)
shiUing]
it wiiiro
aschooli
mfmt
devote tc
taMishmi
ded teac
die setd(
%-,i^ ^cann
eh«lroh|a
teg'% sh(
%ikichwi
than fadf
along ^t
school w:
fwnny^
penny ;
pence oi i
'of ooutse,
t^nent,'a
4'
'*tO0TLAmii
iSStS
Aie cliiifolit<and4n ahndst cvery^popiilou^ pariah there is ^
^^mtkt meeting: In this parish niariy two thirds of the
people SIC seoeders.
Th^4ohoohnaster is appointed by the heritors^ 'and tiie
iegslfNtifision in this parish b a house, schoot-housev and
s gardon*'^ A small inccrme arises from the office of session
eletii; and> I believe, there are some little perquisites be-
sides^' The remainder of the income arises from the quar-
terly payments of such as go to school. It is now one
ihiUing alid six-pence per quarter, but m my young days
ib' inii^ oidy one shIUing. The seceders have sometimes
a schoolmaster, and sometimes not The office is gene-
flilly<''fiile(l by one of their young men, who b a cancfidate
ftii tlie'miniBtry ; ^ut, fromthe neoessaiy time that he must
devote to other studies, it- cannot be supposed that the es-
taMishraent will be equal io the other, where there b aset-
tfed teacher ; diou^ it answers the purpose of inducing
die settled teadier to pay more close attention to his
* I cannot b€ttdr ^plaih the Or^ the school aiid
dmrchi and dieir connexion one with another^ than by giv-
ing a short sketch of die plan followed in my early life,
%hich wyi also explain the moral economy of the piarish.
r When I' was five years of age^ we lived a little more
diflii half a mile from the village ; and I was sent to school
along vridi )m elder brother; The first book used in the
scho(^ was die Shorter Catechismy "which cost one half-
penny^ The next in order was die Proverb^ price one
penny; die thiM was the New Testament y price s^ven-
pence oi ei^tipence. I went through the first two bodLs,
d coutse, mid at seven years of age was in the New Tes-
tmnent, at which time we removed to the village. The
326
TlAVCLt IMII
next ijradatkm was the bible, accompuiied by. .infitilig|y and
iVom thenee to Latin and arithmetic ; themnrtting being
continued. The hour of attendance in the morning waa
9 Q^clook in summer, and 10 o'ck)ck in winter ; and the
scliool was opened by a short jvayer. We had an interval
firom 1 to 2, and were dismissed at 6 o'clock in summer,
and in winter a little before dark ; when we had agi^ a
short prayer. The Saturdays were devoted to repeat ques-
tions in the catechnra ; and on Sunday, besides attendance
at church, which was strictly enjdned, we had to get a
psalm by heart, which we repeated in the school «» Mon-
day morning. Those fiuther advanced in education, got
by heart the proofs to the Shorter Catechism ; and' some-
times we were appointed to repeat them in church, after
the morning service.
;9>The people assembled to church at^ 10 o'clock Mi the
morning, when the exercise began by singing firom 8 to 12
lines of the Scots psalms. The schoolmaster was pre-
centor, and all, the people joined^ often forming ^a most
melodious concerts After singings the minister prayed,' and
then read a portion of the scriptures, on which he gave a
lecture, which genen^y kisted about 40 minutest When
it was fimshedf he gave outtmother pisalm to be sung, and
this was odled the mid-psalm. The minister then prayed;
gave a sermon, and a prayer after it. He then gave out
another psabnt^:and,.witha benediction, dismissed the con-
gt€gation*-'ms;*«ftt^4^r ■..• ,^^,,.■■ . ■•. .^., .-,
4M there wte'any children to i)e baptist, they were
presented immediately after singing the. last psalmi and
this was performed with great solemnity^ in the face of the
whole congregation. The parent was admoiushed to train
. up the child in the nurture and admonition of the Lord —
<tOOXL4MD.
as7
to bOi^tttcmplaiy iii.his^ftnulyt and to givethe child an
edueatkNn aooordfoig to his chrcumstanceft ; whidir 'having
asacntedvto, the^child was admitted a member of the church
bj baptism, -performed bf sprinkling prater on the iace.
In siimmervihere waA an interval oC about an hour, when
the congregation again met^ and tlie afternoon cicerciae was
eofidttcted in the same way, with the exception of the
ketm« and^mi^.)&tfa/ipn. ii'
j illhe worahqoi in the aeceder church was performed ex*
octtf; in^the same way, but was longer continued ; 4ind they
had' an interval both in summer and winter.
.The religious tenets of the parish were calvinistic, in
which the establidied church were pretty liberal ; but the
seoeders were very rigid and austere, i No part of the
discipline however had any tendency to clash with the
atabltshed habits of the people, except that which pro-
labibB^pfwnnitmotts danemg; that is^ men and women
danbing^' together. We had'^-^for my mother wasa seceder,
and I was one df course-^we had' frequent addresses from
the pulpit :on. the profanity of this< exercise, and the old
fllbuffe elders anJ^* unco guid'V of the congsegation were
everlastingly admonishing the youn^g and the g^ agsdnst
the *' awful judgment like sin, cxf disregarding the cove,
nants and standaids of the church;'' but^so they might.
The young and the gay would hear them, and sometimes
.\fxk douce on the occasion too; but let a fiddle and.bass
strike up to the tune of *' The Highlandman. kissed his
ntfther," or the *'Cameronian's rant," the heart-inspiring
strain would immediately vibrate through every avenue of
the body; the young peasants, and often the old ones,
would immediately start up and dat^pe $ nor would they
hatve desisted (I speak of my young days), I verily believe,
^m
TI^VJN# ly
although Mit» Johakfid been ln(th0EqlW^ nidSKjtocldivcr
them DVff to Satain and his «oo^* dbrAvMit «l hia*clbow,
midy to execute the mandate.
For my own part, I waa pasaionately fond^tf Soottiah
mnaic and danciug, from the earlieat period of mynmem.
brance, and we had mott delectable muaic in the. pariah.
There waa a man*of the name of John Boiarie^ who played
delightfully on the fiddle; and hia brother ri^0i«f.« was
equally oelebrated on the basa. They performed lit dl the
weddings round, and a wedding oould not be held wiidi*
out music and dancing. To these it Waa the fiiahion for
the young boys, for many miles round, tago; andln^^
failed to embrace every opportunity that presented Itaetfi
Often, on a stormy winter nighty have I walked th^te.or
four milea^ plashing away through '* dub and mireV' biit
the moment that the sound of the fiddle leached my ten,
it would set my heiut « capering ao, that I coidd hanfly
withstandvthe temptation to dance in the open fields, a
quarter of a mile distant firtm the scene of action,
i yl cdnnol devote more room to delineite the pecidiar
manners of the Scottish petisanta. I shall therefore only
observe here^ that those in our pariah wer^ genendly apeak^
ing, sober^ diacreet, and virtuous ; and teferring to the
Ai^pendix, No. 3, for further pafticnlara, I shall dose
this article by an extract firom the celebrated Scottiah baiti
-^Robert Bums.
i<.'^.
O Scotia ! niy^ear,it^'^l^i^yMt!
For ,vrbdm my warmest whb to he»TMi is sent !
Loiigrroay thy lurdy sons of rustic toil
Be .blest with health, an4 p^ce* aod sireet coptent !
> r
And I
.< Ffom I
n\y appre
««teyeai
with fine
a^pds.i
is carried
wj)t!\ wat<
V JVth I
wa|er, anc
T]|ie scene
con9|sti|ig;
Inches, u^
ofMoncri
viejrainSi
and^beauty
Perth cc
employed
on with R
There are '
number of
sh^>.buildii
VOL. I.
.-?<
'-T'
kivcr
ilbow,
soltiih
menu
pariih.
played
I with,
ion for
I'ltaetfi
ti" biit
t hardly
fields,!
pecidiar
only
f^ speak-
to the
dose
baifl
rti
ioot&AMD;
" ^* '' > VAad, .O I flity heaven their timpM ^ivei prevent
^ . ■ Fnm iH^ry't contagioi^ week end vile '.
That howe'er crovftu and corpruu be rent, ,
A viETVQUt ropuLAOv may rise the whilei
And stand a wall of fire around their much-loved Iblb.
3d9
>,;:
v«f r-
From Methven I went to Perth, where. I had served
iqy ^apprenticeship to business, and spent a number oi' my
earjijr yeanu The country is well cultivated, and jlbOMnds
with fine scenery. The eastern p?xt Qf the river Almond
a^l)^ds^ with printfiel^ and UeacAfi^lds, and a large canal
is c<urq^ from it, about three miles, to supply the town
water, on, which there are very important works
Perth is situa^d on the river Tay, at the head of tide
wa|er, and is on^ of the handsomest towns in Scotland.
T^ scenery^around it is vqry rich, and the public property,
opns|Sting,of tv^o fine fields, called the North and South
Inches, a];e i|q| <»ily, ornamental, but highly useful to the
tc^;,^i^^ing;^nje waUcs, and bleaching an^ gipazing
grounds. To 4)e east is tliie, hill of Kinnoul, about 800
feg^^igl^, and (^ the pppc^site $ide of the Tay, is the hUl
oC^^Moncrieff, from^jkrhenqe, there are some of the richest
vii^s in Scot)an4|., Th^ is an elegant stone bridge across
the Tay at Pexth, which adds much to the convenience
and .beauty of the town,
Perth contains about 15,000 people, who are principally
employed in trades and manufactures, which are carried
on with ^p(3at spirit ; particularly in linen and cotton.
There are valuable (fishings upon the Tay, which keep a
number of vessels employed in the London trade; and
sl^-building is carried on to a considerable extent.
VOL. I. 2 T
-Vfc,
%60
TWfmMMV
'> The sfttbtmni educatkm is upon an excdknir/ooting,
'^jparticularly the academy, at which is. taughl^a college
education in minature, and it has furnished mpFC good
mathematical scholars, calculated for the ordinary occupa-
tions of life^ than any other, semin^ that has ever, coine
v*.under my observation.
^' Having spent a few days in this place,, I set, out by the
4coach for Methven, and, bidding adieu to -my lelations, I
K^GOntinued my journey to Glasgow,
e
mi
■ '':m
.4,;
-.i^-,
14
best arranjg
but to *carr
dealdfditf
take a Joui
(JfasgOW 01
to JEdinbu
atLeith. '
ing in brd
^»^ttvaiidj
great txttnt
tTiepackeis
to an hour;
and so cauti
none of then
Kinghom,
town, buik <
which, andc
it has a fine
Four mile
gling town,
shore; and
hemp, fla^jc, a
T ^
.1 <mr
•
icdltAjifti
td^l
• ' ■ ■ ' , ■ ' . '
.-
CfllPtfeA XLTX.
, !^:5"
S^inburghf — Dundee,^—I^aikland»
I MENTIONED btlie last chapter, thatlhadrtadfeftfe
best arrangement I could under existing circumstances;
but to 'carry it into full effect, was attended with a gbod
deal bf difficulty ; and I was obliged, in consequence, to
fake a journey to the east countty. I accordingly left
Olasgow on ibe 5th of July, and travelled by the coach
to Edinburgh. Next morning, I crossed the FortH"^
at Leith. The Forth is here seven tniles broad, ehcreas-*
ing ih breadth to tJie eastward, add contracting to the
westward; ahd there are sevehil islands in it, but of no
great extetit. The whole presents a verjr picturesque view.'
The packed genemlly make ^ passage in fh>m 40 minuted
to atl hour ; and they are under such good regulations,*
and so cautiously conducted, that from tinie immcinorial
none of them have been lost.
Kinghom, on the north ^de of the Forth,'ifl[ slhall
lown, buih on high ground, sloping towards the Forth, of
wMch, and of Edinburgh and Leith, on the opposite side^
it has a fine view.
Four miles to the eastward is Kirkaldy, a long strag-
gling town, built mostly on one street, close along th^
shore ; and here there are considerable manufactures of
hemp, fla^, and cbtton ; particularly of checks and ticks.
u
/
6SQ TBAYSIA IN
^ A mile beyond th%>con the height^ is ^Paifaliead, where
a great deal of weaviiig is done, priticipellj for the Kvkal-
dy manufacturers. A mile to the e^ is Dysart, a tittle
town^remarkable^or its coal- works ; and the whole coast to
the eastward is studded with towns, ^pontaining ^fiom 200
to>400 people^-t^vT: t.^
- From Pathhead; I travelled 16 miles' to Cupar; Arough
a variegated country, abounding in hill and dale, woods and
small rivulets. The soil is pretty good, and the system
of agriculture is in a very advanced state.
t: Cupar is the county town, and is a populous and thriy.
ing place, having considerable manufactures ; particularly
of linen goods, such as silesias and oznaburgs. The coun-
try in its neighbourhood is remarkably well cultivated,
and the farmers have every aj^arance of wealth, and its
usual concomitant — independence.
From Cupar, I travelled 11 miles to Dundee, and^ be-
ing on horseback, I took tht nearest road, whidi led me
^ver a hilly tract of country ; but the soil was fertile, and
it was eyeiy where covered with fine fields of gr^, parti-
cularly wheat.
|. While I was enjoying this v scenery, and contemplating
the bounty of Providence, I was joined by a very commu-
niqitive, garrulous friend, who told me he was a plasterer
in Dundee. He began a long talk about Aiperica, part of
which I knew before, mid part of which was never known
by mortal man. But it was all gospel in my friend's eyes.
He had it from the best authority : he couid not be mis-
taken. — Among other tales, he mentioned that u gentle-
man, of the name 9f Miller, had left a good trade in Dun-
dee to go to America, and had settled in the back woods
among the savages; and yet he had come back to try
to get his wife' to go out also; alleging that it was a bet-
ter country than this ! y But,'' added he^ " I'm veiy well
pleased where I am, and intend to remain in Dundee."
On drawing towards our place, of destination, the road
descends by a winding course of considerablQ extent, froiti
whence there is a beautiful view of the Firth of Tay,
which we crossed by a ferry nearly three miles broad, and
immediately entered the town of Dundee, where I stopped
for- the night. -.^t-r.-r^kriixntf^
Dundee is a large town, containing upwards of 26,000
inhabitants, who have extensive and well-organized manu-
fectures of hemp, flax, and cotton ; particularly cotton-
bag^g, sail-cbth^ oznaburgs, and coloured threads. It
is one of the principal shipping ports in the east of Scot-
land, and carries on a considerable trade to the Baltic, finom
which the principal raw materials for the manu&ctures are
drawn.
i soon finiriied my business here, and returned to Cu-
par. From thence I travelled to Auchtermouchty, about
nkie miles to the westward, through a tolerably fertile
country. Here also there are considerable linen manufac-
tures* My business was soon finished at this place, and
I immediately set out for Edinburgh. The only place of
nctc that I passed^ was Falkland, once the residence of
the kings of Scotland. The remains of the palace are
still to be seen, but it is a miserable pile of building, hav-
ing a room or two occupied as a carpenter's shop ; not-
withstanding, it has a hereditary keeper, with a considera-
ble salary! i
Ofte of the beautiful Lomond hills rises immediately to
the south of Falkland, and reaches an elevation of about
1200 feet. Seyen or eiffht miles to the vvei^ws^'d » the
other) and thef& b a ccmtmued fidge betweeh theiti^ whibh
affordd pasture for a great many sl^eep.
The whble of the coutity of Fife abound* with coaI>
kon, and other minerals.
I reached Edinburgh in^ii# lul^g, and next day re-
tttimed to Glasgow.
~;^>
ki^^:1^>N^';b#f?*-||ft?^ *fe»#:*f r
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iffi^ii..-,
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335
r'l-tt^i "i's.-iJ'.JJ*. ;.■ ' 'Vi, K- £■('■■.' in:' -;'
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w ■?^;.■.^^j...
CHAPT^E L.
ii.^
OUtsgcWy — Edinburgh^ — Mr, Fox's birth-day.
1 HE orders in council still continued their baleful ope.
ration, and I was kept in a state of inactivity most uncon.
genial to my established habits. But there was no help 2
'* the king willed it ;" and I was obliged to submit.
Under this disagreeable feeling, I was glad to avail my*
self of any active and rational amusement ; and two much,
valued friends, one of them a merchant of Liverpool, hav-
ing invited me to take a jaunt to Edinburgh, 1 accepted
!t with pleasure; the more so, as T heard that the birth-
day of Mr. YeojL. was to be celebrated within a few days.
We left Glasgow on the 20th of January, 1809. Mr.
Fox's bir^-day was celebiated, by the whig! party in
Edinburgh, on the 24th. Being acquainted with several
members of that illustrious body, I applied lor tickets for
my Liverpod friend arid myself; and we joined the party
accordingly. A Iriend^ who had assisted in arranging the
mu^c, and whose place was to be opposite the band, that
he .might ^ve the necessary instructions, obligingly ac-
commodated us with seats beside himself; so that we
were placed in a fevouraUe situation for observation.
The company, nearly 200 in number, assembled at 6
o'clock. Mr. Maul, of Panmure, took the chair ; sir
Harry Moncrieff was chaplain. The company generally,
in point of respectability of character, liberality of senti-
«,#-.'
m
#
336
TSAVBE.8 IN
#
ment, and brilliancy of intellect, ranked high among the
living characters of the present day. What a blessing it
would be for mankind, thought I, if the councils of states
could be animated by the spirit, and actuated by the con.
duct, of such men ! Btit^Fravidetnce has (no doubt for
wise reasons, though inscrutable to us) ordered it other-
wise, and we must submit, and hope for better days.
The first toast, " The glorious and immortal memory
of Charles James Fox," was drank in silence, and stand-
ing. This was followed by a dirge fi'om the band of vo-
cal music; after which we had the song of " Scots wha
hae wi' Wallace blcdj*' foUouted by the, air to which Bums
originally composed it, by the inimitable band of Natha-
niel Gow; and so mournfully pathetic did they play it^
that it brought a plentiful shower of tears from the eyes
of many of the company. ; juxir v> f ; ^^/n. ,
• MiEierjT toast was i followed by music, and never ^ did I
hear music more elegant or better arranged^ Nathanid
Gow, a soi^ of the celebrated Nid Gow, led the band,dnd,
to use the :langu^ of my Liverpool friend, he " handled
his elbolv in great style ;" and w^ well support^ by the
other performers. ■ i ' ■:] y "■\^.-y.<-Ui<-h-
7f Th&tndtice of a few of tlie leading sentiments, with the
mu&ic that followed, will set've to illustrate the spirit
of the company:- ■■ . ■ ■ .."^_ a^aii'ir i-'tm^'^k^'
Toast — -The whig psffty of ScodandM
Toast — Whigs of England, -"urrii^ i: ni h^hiio
., Mufic—O the roast beef of Old England. , ^
•^ii^ToAST — Whigs of Ireland. ^'-
4 il/«*Mv-^Erin go bragh. ,
mit:
ii!^?.5'
UUOii
#
Oi',
Am€5WGa,Kand jn»tke tp, foreign povi^.,^ . ■,j-0mi
)lXjasL]^ not be iirproper J^ier© to show tlwiiJegpee pf esti*:
ina$i(Ki»M whichjordj^^elyitt^^, W98^^ h^^ the whigs of
ScQlJjUfiq. ,, • -^-^smimiit^y- ..-^v..^,.. ,, ..^f.jn'
The^(Mc^p^ stal^d^. d^ he^hadjately perceived cer-
t^il^aUuaiQns to his lordship in the ncwsp^^s,. supposed
to J)e^pr^p«ra{oiy to the introduQtion of that nobleman to
his m^jeslir's. councils ; he would therefore propose, as .|l^
May Ipini^ M^ville be exalted 9S^xiqe^^ to his merit. ,^
^JOhooujUsippiayed^^^^^^^^ and this was JpUowe4
by.%S)atirical song, beginning iifer««i«fc
« Tak ye tent, tny guid chicl, o* my bbnn^ Mark Spirott.**
fBfifeeJeaving !&dinburgh, we heard the melancholy
accent of the bi^tle. of Corunna, and the saicrifice of one
of^lh^ xnojidi ga|ljil»t of Britantua's spns* w, John Mpore^^
A^^iQr.,wh»t?^^to support the indsependenc^ of Spain >
and^For^gall say the British, ministry. To support th^:
saine ministry in power^ and their adhei^ntsin]^Ge! says
sober reaspn*,,^ * ►
^Ec^ weather w^ dreadfully col4>dunng our stay at
Edinburgh, tlie thermometer being one day as low as 2°.
On our way to Qlasgow, the snow was so deep, that,
during a considerable part of the journey, we had^ji^^
horses in the carriage. ^m-^m^.;^^
2 u-
VOX. I,
^S9S
TiAVSlit iir
y»-' /
6HAPTfiR i^.
.^Ubi^imm^ >-•
''f!-.
Vburriej/ id Ireldra,^P&rt Patfv:k,^Bdfdsty^Dmdrum
Bay, — Newry.
^A F£RIQD< was at last put to my state of inactivity.
jQn thje 17th of July, as I walked along the sbneet, the
carrier put a packet of letters into my hands, which., bore
the po^maric of Castle- fTellan, in Ireland* On opening
.Jt, I foiand it contained an invoice and bill of lading of a
t cargo of cotton, shipfted by the JUucy Jiroi^n Savannah ; but
,^^e vessel was bound to Liverpool, and the^e was nothing
.to explain why my letters should have been put ^ishore at
l^lpastle-WeUan. I dreaded a shipwreck, and made^inune^
;|diate preparations to go, to Ireland. .^.^i^. myf
I left Glasgow by the niaii stagiti on tK« 19tfa,,^d^ t);a-
I^Vell^g thromgh a tolerably fertile cQ^ntry about Tunnies,
^^passed, through a chain of barren^ hills, of no great hciglit,
t, about 7 miles more. Eight miles beyond,|hi8 is Kilmar-
l^iiocky and towards it the country is a little improved* •
^- Kilmarnock is a straggling, dirty, little carpet-manufac-
tory ^place, which merits no other notice, tha|i as being
doomed to inunortality by Robert Burns,
fki
Kilmarnock wabsters, fidge an' clawj
An' psur your creeshie nations j
All' ye'wha leather ra^w ttn* dnvr,
Of ft' denominations >
■f ? "■■.•'
:■[•••, < •
*
#
*♦
SiOOTtAKD.
339
■^»A
4 p jf^> >'Swith to the laigh kirk ane an* a*, ^>*'^-*»
. .tuMTiiiiiiH An*, there tak up your stations/
j |yi,. ^ Then aff tc Bigbie*» in a raw,
And pour divine libations
For joy this day.
We stopped at the said Bigbie's, and, for the humour of
the thing, I called for a libation of porter; but there was
no joy in the drinking of it — it was sour, stale, and spirit-
less.
Frdtti KilmalTiOck to Ayi^ i^ 12 itiiles : the t^d is v%iy
gdod; but the country ii poor, although it certainly bears
ah exceMeiit crop of " bonny lasses:" the \irbmen of Ayr-
shire are beauttful. J '«^
On^enteting the tbwn of Ayr, every t^ng that! saw re-
minded m6 of my fevourhe bard. The ** Dtlhgeoft Clock"
and " Wallact Tower," the " twa steeples," could be seen
at aMistaiire, and L passed by the "New Brig," where a
little way up the stream I saw the " Atild Brig;" and the
whole ficenery brought the extraordinary dialogue between
the " Brigs of Ayr'* fresh to my recollection.
Ajrr has ho numuiactiures for America, and Ihad not a
moment t6,view the town ; so, procuring a chaise, I posted
^'night' tbivaids Port Patrick. The night was dark,*damp,
ahddbmal; but my haste would brook no delays I hur-
lii^ on: at midnight I was at Girvan, at daylight, at Bal-
labtrae^ and, at 8 o'clock, i bi^eakfasted bn the east side of
Loch Ryan. From thence the road passes through a poor,
moory country to Fort Patrick, wluch I reached at one
o'clock. •
Here I was informed that the packet had not sailed for
five days, such had been the- violence oi the weather; and
that a number of passengers were in waiting, one of them
4
%
34h TllX^LS IN
h gentf^maTrtPB^ abquamtftnce from Glasgow, *b<j|ind to
Ireland on an errand of the same nature as my Own. It was
Sunday, and the gentlemen were at church*; but I was told
they would sOon return, when they would take dinher, and
the packet would sdiPiiVihiediately after. I was rejoiced at
thJs intelligence, and ran up stairs to shave and clean myself ;
but the despatch was greater than I had been led to ima-
gine, for I had only got my beard h^ off when I was'in-
fbfmed that I must immedi^ltely go on board the jacket,
'Ariose my ptesa^ ; I therefore buckled up my trumpery,
Mid, in the style that the Israelite messengers were once
presented to their king, half shaved half not, I presented
mysfelf fhi' board* the packet-boat, and she immediately got
undler wav. * ^
' TdKi PATRicfK is one of the most smgular ports I
cver-*i!vv.- The toWn consists of a few houses only, and
the hdrbour is a smill inlet ambng a Ihrge Tna<sS: of'rugged
rocks. The* whole ccAst ) is lofty and lined with rocks ;
and this h^boup, small as it isr, is the only place where a
bo^t co\:ild'l^d for many miles, oh which account it is one
of t\k gr6Kt thoroughfares to Ireland; where the mail pack-
ets dail3r cross. The mode by which they warp the boats
out aiTd in, is very ingenious and singular. #
^ The t^nd was almost right ahead, and the swell consi-
derable, but we got warped out, and put to sei; For the
&^ few hours the weather was pretty moderate, and we
got aSbut half-way across, when the wnd increased to a
very severe gale, which continued all night and great part
of next day. The passengers in the cabin were mostly all
sick, and in all my passages across the Atlantic I never
suffered so much. But in the steerage it was more seri-
ous. The captain was obliged to shut the iiatches j and,
the vess
were all
about ii^
of their
we were
Two
us over I
dy^a dom
» The d
tain agaii
are not a
produced
tieth part
yet^ on la
hensions.
induced ]
post^ohais
my Glasg
mvown:
and at da;
he to go t
with all th<
carry me,
vJii'mj^^
vesselj and
wreck on t
lie sale of ]
The suj
it was all k
so complei
questionabl
and the ex]
«-»
^^HilllLAMD*
341
the vessel beinf^ (SroiWdtd with passengers, some of them
were almost stifRed to death. In this way we were beat
about in the channel for 24 hours, often within a few miles
of the Irish coast, though we could not reach it; and finally
we weve obliged to put back to Port Patrick.
Two dayt thereafter we had a fair wind, which wafted
us over 27 miles, in a few hours; and we set foot on Pad'
dy^s dominions just as it began to get dark.
*' The degree of prejudice that is artfully kept alive in Bri-
tain against Ireland would hardly be believed by those who
are not acquainted with it; and such was the effect it had
produced on me, that though I did not believe the twen-
tieth part of the stories that were told of the '^ wijlitl Irish,"
yet) on landing at Donaghadee, I had considerable appre-
hensions as to my. personah safety ; and nothing coiild 'have
induded me to travel alone at that hour of the night in a
post^ohaise* I the^fore availed myself of the company of
my Glasgow friend, whose business was equally urgent as
my own : we posted all night by Belfast and Hillsborough ;
and at daylight arrived at Baiilbridge» Here we parted,
he to go to Wexford; I took a post-chaise, and drove on
with all the despatch that a pair of very sorry horses would
carry me, to iDuildnim bay.
Oii'mywajrtluther I learned the unfortunate fate of the
vessel^ and, <»i reaohing the spot-, I found her lying a total
wreck on the shore, and the inhabitants tollected to a pub-
lic sale of her materials. ' -
The supercargo assured me that all4he cargo was sa^;
h was all landed to be sure, but on examination 'I found it
so complet^y drenched with sea^water, tliat it was very
questionable whether it^wou^ bring one-third of its value,
and the expences I found would be. excessive* My first
IMAGE EVALUATION
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23 WIST MAIN STRKT
WnSnR,N.Y. 14SM
(716)S72-4S09
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4%
343
TRATBIiS IN
impression was^ that we should sell oflNfaef whole cti tl^
spot, and the agent and I had an advertisement drawn up
to that e&ct; but'this not meeting the approbation of my
friends in Britain, nor the owners of the^other parts of the
cargo, Ir reluctantly yielded up my opmion to theirs, and
agreed to ship it to Liverpool: in consequence of jthis de-
termination, I was detained eight weeks in Ireland* »>^^
^ As our agent lived at Newry, I had frequent occadon
to go tliere^ and I found him a most hospitable man, frank j
friendly, and obliging'i The morning after my arrival he
oairied me to the co£fee-house, where there was an animat-
ed debate conaming a newspaper; and which subject,
though ap]}arently trifling, actually mvolved ihs catho&e
question. One of the subscribers, a very respectable mer-
chantfin the place, was charged *with a breath t>f the r^les,
hy abstracting the public papers for his own private use.
The charge was foumled on the trivial circumstance, that
the gentleman being confined to his bed by indisposition,
his clerk wished to conununicate a piece of very interest-
ing intelligence^ and carried away, with ieave of the bar-
keeper, one of the papers which contained it, after the
rpom waft; shut at: ni^t, wliich he returned beforeiit^was
opened in ?the' morning. A common observer would have
thought that there was really no harm- in this : itwas^ttlcu-
lated to injtue nobody ; and if there was ai^ blame at all,
it nested mth^ie dlerk, not^the employer^ But so did not
one .of the subscribers'; think. He made^t the ground of
f a«most serious charge^ in which he overlooked the clerk al-
together, And fixed on the employer only. The matter was
explained, and, as might have. 4ieen ezpectody the charge
^nas scouted by the good sense of the people. '* Why was
it made?" mi^ be asked, with surprise, by those who do
IBfeLAHlH
sa
» the
wn up
of my
of the
rs, and
hbde-
nflt know the management of regukr gauemmfnts^ The
gentleman who made it was an officer under government,
and 6 heresy hunter; his antagonist had the audacity to
beaMomancathoHe* "
^ewry is situated 'On a river called Newry Water, at
the head of Carlingford Bay, and enjoys a.very considerai
ble commerce, especially in the Liverpool trade. The
bay ia^ navigable for large vessels, to within a few miles of
the town, and the navigation is thence continued for smaller
vessels into the town by a canal, which: runs to Lough
Neagh. ^ The. greater part of the town is low, and not
veiy clean ; but part of it is on high ground, on wluch the
church stands, with a low squat steeple. The country
round is hilly, except to the north-west, where it spreads
out into fine fertile plains. The peculiar configuration of the
town and state of society in it, occasioned die following
lines from the satirical pen of Dean Swift: t
i.. %<^igh church, low steeple,
mi^^^xmrn^ Dirty •treeta, and proud people.
^<,
Whetiher «the people in general deserve the character^ I
cannot say; but* those among whom I associated certainly
did not. I found them frank, afiabk, polite, and friendly.
> My bu»ness in Ireland proved much more troublesome
than was originally anticipated, and I #as induced to go
t& Belfiut to make some enquiry concerning it. From
Newfy ta Bainblndge is 10 miles, through a tolerably good
soil, in^roving towards the latter place, which is a siilaK
town, surrounded by fine bleachfields, and has a go6d
linen -market. Five milea beyond B^nbridge v^'passeA
Dromore> the aeat of one of the Irish bishops ; an^ four
mk
TMmmuBmi
inUeBiAtbm tbenoe we reaelMi'iHUlsbo^oughHinelf aittiated
ih a^tich ond flourishing country^ and contatning about
100^ houses;' 'The church is an elegant 'boUdmg, #itha
4)S(^ Idfty^lrpiiP^ aikbi^ie' windowsMire- stained^^n imkaUon
bf some of the English cathedialsj^.-^his is tlieiseat>of
the Bonmsliii^fiimtly, one of the- most iivcalthy lit Ireland.
Three miles beyond this is Lisbum, a thriving little
t6Wn,iit^which cotton manufactories have been established
t&a v^con^derabler^xtent r and «even miles from dience,
through r^very elegant country, and highly cukivated,* is
tfaetownof Belfest. '^ t ?
^ BELTASTfis situated at the head o&Bel£is^Lou^and
is a handsome place, having extensive cotton and linen
manufactories^ andu very considerable shifting ttrads^i I
^na detained here piiart 6f two days, and found the4nhabi-
tiints very civil and oMigmg. Those, in partieulavi urith
whom i had business, were uncommonly ^lentivei and
6ne gentleman^^ iii4iof was ti good ideid oonversant^ with die
ntlode of ^mariaging'shi^wrecks and damaged cotton, agreed
to psr^me^ risk 1ft Dundrum Bayi and giv^me^totbest
advice. This matter being setded,^ ^^lietiifiied^ to»#l€Wfy.
K:/We changed horSes at Bainbridge,^ the^ pkide whole I
peirtod with my friend on niyr way to^^Dundnim Bay.
l^e^ hostler,^ humorous-loolring^fellow, reiogmze^ me.
*^ ^^c* not you the gentleman," said hcj* " thatrl got'#ie
ohttse for 'the^t'<llher mornings and that gave me -a five-
penny in ^lace of a ten-penny, because he^had no<r more
dKinge?^^ <^ May be tso,'' said l» takings n^tseat^ the
cttriage. r " And shall I really dmt the dipor f"^ say% he
looking^very kimerously in my- &CQhv 'Certainly," SfMd I,
pretending .ignorance of his meaning t H we canfttlnivel
with the carrit^ door open.'* ^' Well now," sud hQ> still
;i
mitAi^bi
US
hokiing ^ ^ooti *^ wli6 would hoVe expected it fhiiii ^tm
good, generous-looking face ?" " By my shouij** «dd I,
PMldy, (giving himateii-penny), ** if jrou faishmen don't
make iHotiey, it Will not be for want of brats.'* ** Oeht
dear, sure our tongues were never meant for the pocket,**
said Paddy, shutling the door with a humorous smile, and
we drove on*
From Newry I returned, accompanied by my ftiend, to
Dundhim Bay, where I had immense trouble with the
eargo ; but this subject, though of gi^t importance to me,
being of ho consequence to the reader, I shall pass it over^
and notice a fe<w of those occurrenoes which are more
generally interesting^
Dttndrum Bay, where the vessel was stranded, ia a
llir^ <beild in the Irish Sea, extending across from Anna*
loit^ on the south-west, to Point St. John on the south-
east, about 13 miles; and it extends into the countiy about
five Miles. To the west are the lofty Mome mountaina,
one of them. Slave Donard, the highest in Ireland. To
the nordl-east of die mountains, the country spreads out
into pretty fertile fields.
At *ftie foot of the mountams stands Newcastle, a small
tillage, and^m thence eastward the sea shore is a sandy
beach^ two miles to Dttndrum, where there is an inlet.
This inlet 'Spi'eads to the east and west a considerable
distance ; the western part is a narrow peninsula, abound^
in^' with rabbits, and has been converted into a rabbit
warte. The Lucy w^as driven ashore on the eastern part
df this peiiinstlia ; and the cargo was landed on die pre-
misbs 6f the proprietors of die rabbit warren, a very re-
spetitiaible iikhd hbspitable finnily, where I found the captain
"VOL. t.
2it
S4d
TBAVBLB IN
Hid supercargo; and with whom I also lodged during my
stay there.
^ The landlord was near 70 years of age, Tery stout
made, remarkably humoursome, and a great lover of the
game of whist The landlady was nearly as fond of whist
as her husband ; and when they joined their forces, they
were an overmatch for almost all who ventured to play
against thenu
I They had a large fiimily, all grown up, of whom four
sons and three daughters were at home; they all played
whist: they were also visited by some of the most res-
pectable people in the neighbourhood, and often, in the
evenings, they had very entertaining whist parties. ^
It was early in the morning, after one of these parties,
that the Lucy met with her hard fete. She was bound to
Liverpool, and, being past Skerries-light, was within a
&w hours' sail of pilot ground, when the gale commen-
ced ; and, after weathering it for three days, she was at
last driven ashore here.
The old man, who was weather-wise, antidpated the
event. He rose from the card-table, and looked out; and>
on resuming his seat, observed, '* It cheats me, if there
be not a rat caught in the trap before morning :" and so
there was. On going to the beaoh in the nnomii^, there,
high and dry, the Lucy lay ; and another vessel, about a
mile to the westward*^
The captain and supercargo, who were almost dead
fnth fatigue, were taken to the house^ and hospitably en-
'tertained; and measures were taken to secure the wreck.
In Uie evening there was a whist party, and the .old man,
.'^iSeeing the captain look very pitiful and dejected, advised
.'Jiim to take a hand at whist, to cheer his spirits. The
f.v
'^
ITBiii^iii,'
347
ciplain was peipauiided;vbut somettung dse than whist was
uppermost in his mind, and he could hardly keep lumself
awake while he played two or three games veiy badly.
He relinquished the game, and went to bed, in the same
room where the landlord slept. The landlord did not go
to bed for some hours after, when, awakening the captain
with some difficulty, the latter started up with a halloa^
calling out, '< What's the matter ?*' *' O faiths the mat-
ter's no great, dear," said the landlord. >* I only wanted
to tell you that you're a d-^ bad hand at whist, and by
J— 4f you shall never be a partner of mine again, for I
lost two ten-pennies by you."
He was a very early riser, and generally came to my
room in the morning to wake m^; when he would enter-
ta^^tne with a thousand witty sayings. Sometimes he
would descant on the beauties of the creation, the bright^
nes^tif the sun, the healthy sea-breeze, the riang plants,
and the singing of the birds. At other times he would
remark, that the air was *' as thick as butter-milk," or
dtot he ooukl cut it with a knife; on which occaiuons
he would say^ '^ You had better lie still, and take another
alefep,dear."
We were introduced to a number of the &mi]ies round ;
among others^ to the doctor of the place, who was a man
of 'talents, and esteemed one. of the greatest wits in all the
country. At a visiting party, our supercargo and the
doctor entered into a punning conversation; but the sun
percargo was no match for the doctor at this kind of dis-
course. He \eA been amusing the company with a num-
ber of -tales Qonceming the wonderful size of some of the
animals in America ; amongst others, the well-known
story of the amazing lar^ musquetoea that bit general
948
TU^lfEiS IN
Washington thpough the boots*. A« an ofitet, the doc.
toe tokl an eqijal number of taka about tb^ wonMul ani.
mflU in JitbmAf meeting the supercaigo in eycfy point,
^jnoept iHm mufiquetoea. ** WeU," sai4 the ^upercargo^
t^umpbanlljr^ *^ you must ackno\^le4ge that oht fie^ are
kwEgor than yours.'* ^* Yes, faith,'^ orie4 the doctor, ** I'll
^knowledge it with nil my hefut, if.you-U only take:^way
the/from tliepi." k. .-.
ij Several lin^n mcrchauM^ were in tl^e neigbbourhood,
who gave me the history of the linen trade jof Ireland, an4
$tated that the stoppage of the Ameriam tmde was ruining
tlieir. business. One of them had recently returned fiipm
Rio Janeiro, wfaene he had been, vvith a eargo of hnena, to
the vahie of nearly £. 60,000 sterling, temf^ by the flatr
tering accounts lield out by the supporters^f i^ ministry.
He returned ^th a most deplorable tale* He m^ npt
able to sell ^bovf qn^e third, at a loss of )30 per cent, mi
he could only get a. precarious prpdujce for return, by
^vhich he anticipated a loss of fyQfa 10 to 20 per qent.
moie. The remainder of the goods h^ w^s, pblig^.lo
consign into other hands, and leavie ^ place. His lotn
altogether, he supposed, would be fully one half; apd he
said that almosit every otl>er sort pf goqds w^ subject to,
« 'shwlir depreciation* Goods wei9e pouring in ironi all
qvtaBler8^ir^lA»)d$»,JLivei^ Qlnsgpw, Mfnoheat^^ Bk.
nwigham, fhieffield* ^c ; and so badiy ii^orn^ed were the
peop4e. in iSO](n^:pkces, that many artidesysent were ajtoge?,
ther unauitdble; for, the marj^Let; prion gra$(^,Jeiidera»to^^
i»o»Si warmingrpans, and skat^ wei^ ^^ifoitfd tp the
Sra2ttls»i8ulcthj? prince regent ai¥as,;9\if ^i^jigust 9flj^,mi
ife'-
! : i:iii :?* f 3ee Weld's Travels.
imBLAMD*
349
dec*
il ani*
point,
aMTgo,
et are
M ru
rhood,
d,an4
iiining
eos, to
heflatr
traif mA
It, mi
It: qent.
M I099
ironi all
qr* Bkr
top
tp the
thflfefoM tiMt country muil be a fine market for rU aoitt
of iimmiBsMistiire^ ** Only look at the map," the ministe-
naliola would exukngly exclaim ; ** only lopk^at the mapv
fBi4 fee the lunasing extent of the country 1 how rich! how
Qnely y^ten^ I Aa^ then the gold mines that it abounds,
with ; and the npble Portuguese who inhabit it, our friends*
apd pur beloved allies. Here's a field for our surplus ma*-
nufiict\|res to the latest posterity ; let us avail ourselves of
it, and kick thi|t blackguard Yankee trade to the devil!"
H ^nien," fiud John Bull; and, overlooking the trifling
^iPCumstQnce, ,|hat it was inhabited by only ha{fa miiiion
f(f people^ and the^ the most poor, pitiful, bigotted, priest*
fidden. devils under the sun, he did email himself of it,
fin4 can now aafculate the value of the avail!
. My ^end came from: Bel&st, according to promise,
and brought twp or three cotton spinners along with him.
They looked at the cotton, and, giving their best advice,^
invked me to convoy them as fiir as Ballynahinch. Here
yft were met by our agent from Newry, and spent a very
happy evening together. I got an account of the batde of
Ballynahinch, and of the present state of Ireland, and neT?'
inonung set out on my return to Dundrum, distant n^ •'
miles.
There waa neither horse nor cliaise to be hired here;
so I was obliged to walk. Learning that there were some
nedicinal springs by the way, I went about two miles
iMKof the direct road to mit them. Before I had got
that length, a veiy severe rain came on, and I was glad to
take shdter in a litde wretched cabin beside the springs.
The old woman was kind to an ercess, brought me a
dram of whisky, and regretted that the accommodation
was so poor. After I had warmed and dried myself a
850
TBAVBL8 IN
little, she looked out, and pitmounced liiit it ^ffduld min
all day. She then asked, whether' I had ever heard of
Mr. Fox, and^ upon beings answered in the affirmative, she
put a few move questions, to learn whether I iqpproived of
Mr. Fox*» sentiments. I could not divine the meaning
of this, and was pondering the subjeet in my mind, when
a young boy in livery called at the houae, and told me
the counaellor sent his compliments, and requested I would
call upon him, as he ii^shed to see me. I was Surprised,
and was going to ask the old woman who the oounadlor
was ; but she sealed my lips by teUmg me, just to isliep
up to the counsellor's, and 'it would be all explained^ to
me. I obeyed, and followed the messenger. *' And who
is the counsellor, my young fellow?'' said I, as wewalktid
towards the houi^. ^ Me is counsellor Tfoherj shr^'^ said
the boy. '^ <* What," said I, <* the same that was private
secretary to Mr. Fox ?" " Yes," said the boy. This
iiccounted for the conduct of the old woman ; and I shall
ever remember her with gratitude for being the means of
introducing me to the bosom friend and biographer of
Charles James Fox,
"■''' The counsellor and I soon got intimately acquunted.
I answered all his questions concerning America, and
he gSLvt me a great deal of information regarding Mr,
Fox's private life, including an account of hiis jouiliey
to France, in which. Mr. Trotter accompanied him, and of
his death, at whidh he was present. I was delighted with
his conversation, and the day, as if determined to prolong
it, continuing Very stormy, I availed myself of his hospi-
table offer, and staid all night. Next morning eariy, I set
out for Dundrum,
^iRBLAmM
351
Dunng my stay at this place, I veoeived letters announ*
cing the airival of one of itoy portners from Savannah, and
stating that I must hold myself in readiness to return to
America. I was siok of my present situation, And longed to
be home; ao, inviting my partner to come and take charge
of the cargo, I. continued shipping it to Liverpool with all
possible dispatch. My partner arrived just as we were
8hi^|>ing the last of the cargo ; and I consigned the re-
maining business to his charge, and made the best of mf
way to Glasgow. He attended the cargo to Liverpool*
where it found a market at little more than what was suf-
ficient, to pay the expences. Had it arrived safe, it would
have yielded a ct^ar profit of £. 7000. Such are some of
the turns of fate ! There was not one penny of insurance
upon it, nor the power of making it. The first account
that I received of it was by the before-mentioned lettq^
from Castle WeUan.
I '- , ..'.
ua
TBAVBU m
^ 1^.
v..
-m^'
,,Ul
* CHAPTBR UDt.
Return to Olasgaw,
ApHIL 20th. Having completed the shipment, I jkirted
lh>m my hospitable entertainers with sentiments of friertdly
regard, and set out on my return to Glasgow, taking
Strangford in my way, in order to clear out the tessels
at the custom-house ; and I was accompanied by my
agreeable friend, the agent at Newry. We passed tt^ugh
Down Patrick, die capital of Downshire, a pretty large
town, but not handsome ; though it is situated in a fer.
tile country, and carries on a considerable trade.
On our arrival at Strangford, the deputy collector exe-
cuted our business with great despatch, and very much
like a gentleman, which is a compliment that I cannot pay
to all his majesty's servants in Ireland, with whom I had
to deal. If I were inclined to be ill-natured here, I could
give a great big thrashing to a certain gentleman, that lives
not 100 miles from the foot of Mome Mountains, who
thinks '* he has a right to make the most of his situation
on the coast ;" and seems to be of opinion, that he is jus*
tifiable in adopting any means in the exercise of that
right ; but I am now in a hurry to be at Glasgow, and
shall pass over his conduct.
We crossed over to Porto-ferry, betwixt which and
Strangford the tide runs with a velocity that I have never
jet seen equiUled. We dined at Porto-ferrj', after which
the agei
regard.
From
partly al
soil in m
pled froi
comcider
of the cJ
the mom
looksi be
paasage i
In the]
tions I no
of the coi
Donaghad
my perwn
to travel al
I was satis
ehauey but
with as mi
was, infac
inhabitants
rived at P
very dear,
distance of
At Port
^vas travelli
pearance,
companion.
morning, a
pretty rugg
views, whi<
VOL. r.
ititiLimf
1m
the agent and I parted ivith many professions of sincere
regard.
From Porto-lfeny to Donaghadee is about 16 miles,
partly along the coast. The country is pretty, but the
soil in many places is poor. This district was mostly peo^
pled fix)m Scotland, and I could observe a remarkable
comcidence in dialect between the people on both sides
of the channel. I reached Donaghadee at 10 o'clock in
the morning ; and a number of vessels, loaded with bul-
kxsksj being about to sail for Port Patrick, I engaged tt
passage in one of them, to sail at 2 o'clock.
In the mean time, I could not help contrasdng the senia-
tions I now had regarding Ireland, with those I entertained
of the country before I saw it. I noticed, on landing at
Donaghadee, that ** I had considerable apprehensions for
my personal safety, and nothing could Imvc induced iiii
to travel alone at night in a post-chaise." Now, however^
I was satisfied that I could not only travel alone in SLpost- .
ehaiiet but that I could travel in any way, and at all hours^
with as much safety as I could in any part of Britain. I
was, in fact, highly pleased both with the country; and th||ii|^
inhabitants. — ^The vessel set sail in the afternoon,' and ar-
rived at Port Patrick about sundown. The evening was:
very clear, and I could see the Mome Mountains, at the
distance of 50 miles.
At Port Patrick I met with an Irish gentleman, who
\vas travelling to Glasgow, and, being pleased with his ap-
pearance, I was very glad to have him for a travelling
companion. We started by the stagikat 6 o'clock in the
morning, and travelled along the coast, which we found
pretty rugged, hilly, and barren ; but abounding in fine
views, which were seen to great advantage, the day being
m
VOL. T>
2 V
354
TRAVELS IK
remarkably clear. At one place, on the top of a hill, we
could see the whole north channel ; the coasts of Ireland
and Scotland ; the islands of Arran, Bute, apd Ailsa ;
and I could also distinctly perceive the Mome Moun.
tains, although we were now upwards of 80 miles distant.
In the course of our journey, I discovered that my tra-
velling companion had a fine taste for music, and being
provided with an excellent flute, in his travelling cane, he
entertained mi^ with a greater number of Irish tunes than
I had cyer heard before. , , w
; When we drew near Ayr, we left the coach and crow-
ed over the country about half a mile to the old road* to
see th<p birth-place of the immortal Bums. It is a lowly
o^^-story hpuse, tl^e one end slated, the o^her thaitched.
B^g ushered into the slated end, wlilch had a deal floor,
we calledfor a " whisky gill,"^ with which we made a li-
bation to the memory of the departed bard ; aiid hsiying
repeated " Tam o' Shanter," the scene of which, "Alio.
way Kirk," is hard by, w^ set opt for Ayr. At the end
of the town, we passed a most princely house, which
might have been witli much propriety dedicated to Folly.
I^ was the firuits of a rapid fortune made t)y smuggling,
which, lik^ many, such, had taken to itself t^e wings of the
morning and departed ; but the house reniained an em-
blem of the cupidity and imprudence of its former ownpr.
^ The stage proceeded no further than Ayr; but being,
anxious to reach Glasgow, my fello)v-trayeller agreed to
accompany me in a post-chaise, which having procured,
a|Tived at 2 o'clock next morning.
Glas£
Soon
fied witi
the Unit
which w
iiiBritair
Was of s]
meetings
try were
loss of th
^eiBdytO!
afiieetra
of the ca
Holland!
to trade v
the laws <
A cabi
ningi the
part, and
kilte'sarn
ed person
papers, an
re-enacted
vfOtojible ]
SOOtLAKD.
555
ill, wt
reland
AilsA;
Moun-
Ustant.
J>y tra-
being
anpt he
es than
■\ • I
I crg^-
:oa4> to
a lowly
latohed.
al floor,
i^e all-
"Alio,
the end
whiph
Folly.
t3 of the
an em-
o^vn^^.
it bemg.
jreed to
rocuredy
<«
CHAPTER Lm.
•■/
Glasgow^ — Edinburgh,— Uverpooly — Manchester,-'^
* Leeds, — JStottingham, — London.
Soon ^ my .^tum from Ii^Umd, I was highly gn.ti:
fied with the account of Mr. Erskine's arrangement with
the United States, and the removal of the non-intercourse;
which was followed by a removal of the onlers in council
in Britain. But the hope induced by these circuimtances
^m& of short duration. Two days had not elapsed, before
meetings of the shipping interest were held, and the minis-
tiy were assailed with most deplorable tales concerning the
loss of their trade. One set of them had the audacity, in-
deed, lo set up the plea, that if the Americans were allowed
a- free trade, it would deprive the British shipping interest
of the carrying trade to Holland. To Holland! Yes, to
HoQdnd! a country with which the nation was at war, and
to trade Math which, was declared to be high treason by
thelawisof the land!
A cabitiet council was held, at which it is said Mr. Can*
'liingi the secretary for foreign aiffairs, took a most active
part, and strenuously supported the principle that Mr. Ers-
kine's arrangement should be ratified; but a certain elevat-
ed personage took umbrage at some expressions in the
papers, and would not agree ! and the orders in council were
re-enacted in a new form, called a blockade. Thus were the
vahiable manufectures of the country sacrificed to the
356
TRAVELS IN
whim of an individual, and the mercantile cupidity of a
shipping interest.
The public will be able to form a pretty correct judg-
ment, as to what degree of knowledge in political economy,
was possessed by the men to whom was confided the ma-
nagement of the affairs of a great commercial nation, by
adverting to the following facts. .
It was estimated by Mr. Pitt, that the pro-
fits of the nation arising from manufac-
. tures amounted to
From the merchant shipping and small
, craft ,
.^The hands employed in manu&ctures were
L, estimated at
Seamen m the merchant service at
The income arising fi-om manufactures de-
% stined for the United States
The hands employed in manufactures for
ft the United States
And I presume that the hands employed in
, the whole trade with tlie enemies of the
^.^ country, do not exceedf^^^^^ . .
And yet a fair, honourable, and safe trade, to a great
extent, with a friendly neutral, has been sacrificed, to a
poor, pitiful, limited, dishonourable, and precarious com-
merce, subject totlie regulation of the arch-enemy of the
country. Could that enemy have managed the matter
with more advantage to his views?
^ I now calculated that the American trade was at an end,
and immediately decided to set out for that countiy to in-
quire into the state of our property there, and make the
best arrangement regarding it, ^t circumstances might
£. 14,100,000
;f. 1,000*000
1,680,000
155,000
£* 7,000,000
675,000
20,000
ENGtiAKIX.
357
of a
judg.
lomy,
e ma-
n, by
point out. Before t^ing my passage for America, it wa9
necessary to make a very extended tour in Britain ; and
though it was so rapid, as to be almost barren of inci-
dent or observation, yet I shall state the outlines, so as to
continue the chain of connection with the other parts of
these travels.
I set out from Glasgow on the 1st of August, 1809,
and travelled by the coach to Edinbuigh. From thence
I crossed the Forth to Kirkaldy, Cupar, and Dundee, and
returrted to Edinburgh.
On the 6th, I kft Edinburgh, in the maSl coach, for
Carlisle. We passed through Dalkeith, Selkirk, and Lang-
holm. A great part of the journey was in the night, and
the weather was very ndny. The soil appeared pretty good
to Dalkeith, which is a handsome little town, nine nule^
from Edinburgh, with the seat of the duke of BuccleugU
in the neighbourhood. The soil continues good a consi-
derable way beyond Dalkeith, after which the country is
poor and hilly ; but it answers well for pasture, and the peo-
ple keep large flocks of sheep.
I reached Carlisle at 6 o'clock, and continued my jour^
ney to Liverpool, where I arrived at 3 o'clock next morn-
ing.
In the afternoon I left Liverpool for Manchester, and
continued my journey to Halifax and Leeds, and thence
through a fertile country eight miles, to Wakefield, a neat
town, having extensive manufactures of woollens, particu-
larly jft/j^.
From Wakefield to Sheffield is 24 miles, through a rich,
well-cuitivated country; and at Sheffield are the greatest
manu&ctories of edge-tods in England. The master-cut-
Jers are here 600 in number, and the quantity and varietj'
» rt'.
fii
SJ^
TRAVELS IN
of work that Is produced is immense. America is a greatt
alid important market for Sheffield goods.
' On the morning of the 15di of August, at one o'clock, I
left Sheffield for Nottingham, distant 38 niiles. Of tbe
country, I could see nothing till I was near Nottingham,
and there it is fertile, and well improved.
f Nottingfaiim is situated on the steep ascent of a rock,
overlooking the river Trent, and a vast range of adjoining
meadows. It is a larg^, populous, and pretty handsome
town, having the streets well paved, and a good market-
place. It is a principal seat of the manufacture of citTtfton
and silk hosier}', and lace; and sends annually a vast quan-
tity of goods to America. There is a castle situated on a
high part of the eminence, which has a fine efiect when
viewed at a distance.
I' Here I took a passage by the mail coach for London;
and setting out at nine o'clock in the morning, we passed
through Norman, Melton, Mowbray, Oakham, Upping-
ham, Rockingham, Harborough, Kettering, Wellingbo-
rough, Harold, Bedford, Shelfdrd, Hitchin, Hatfield, Bar-
net, and Highgate, and reached London, distant from Not-
tingham 124 miles, at 5 o'clock next morning.
My business inXiondon was soon settled; and I devoted
a day to see my friends; but I was too much hurried to go
to any of the public places with which the city abounds,
except Vauxhall Gardens. This place is considered d great
curiosity, and in all my former visits to London, I had ne-
ver had an opportunity of seeing it. I had been out df town
dining with a fnendj and hurried to the London coflee-hiuse
to go to the gardens. Ju^ as I arrived, I found a Scots-
man from Geor^a at his glass of wine. He invited me to
partake of it, but I declined it, telling him that I was in a
ENGLANOi.
359
hurr/ to go to V^uxhall; he finished his wine and agreed
to accompany me. It was the duke of York's birth-night,
he told me, and there would be some extra amusements.
As we travelled towards the gardens, I perceived that my
friend had taken a glass too much, and it began to operate
pretty vehemently to the prejudice of tlie English people
I did not regard this when by ourselves^ but I admonish-
ed him to be more circumspect in his conduct and expres-
sions when we should reach the garden; which he readily
assented to. ,> .,
On our arrival, I was delighted with the vast variety
and brilliancy of the lamps, and the immense concourse
of people. An orchestra was in the middle, and we bad
soine vocal and instrumental music ; but as I never admir-.
ed English music, I pass it over^ In a short time my
friend proposed an adjournment to a tent, where we might
have something to drink. He called for a bowl of arrack
punch, and seeing some company pass, he invited two of
ijaem to take seats beside us, and a share of our fare.
While we were thus situated, the fire- works were an*
nounced, and wishing to see the whole economy of these
gardens, I went to view them. They were splendid.
Qn. my return, I found my friend had got a second bowl
of arrack ; and, observing two or three men in the high-
land dress, he invited them to join us, and ordered a third
bowl. While we were thus engaged, a band of music,
over head, struck up Bothemur chiefs Ranty and a ring be-
ing formed among the spectators, a number of gentlemen
and i^(/i>£ danced Scots reels. This gave my friend, who
was a great Scotsman^ fresh animation, and he began to
flouri^ away and draw comparisons between his countr}'-
linen and th^ English, that I did not at all like, ^d proposed
,#
3^ 'i;BAyfiLB jN
that we should immediately go home. Having assented to
thi$, I left him to adjust and setde the bill, while I went to
see the water-works. On my return, I found him em«
broiled with some of the natives, whom he was denouncing
as a set of taUors; and the, bill w^sjstill unsettled. I in-
stantly paid it, and looked round for my friend — but he
was gone. On making inquiry for him of. the bystanders,
I was told that he had been committed to the watch-house ;
and it was with great difEculty that I escaped being im-
plicated as an accomplice. Having, with considerable ad-
dress, cleared myself from the imputation, I at ]ast')pre-
vailed with some of his antagonists to conduct me to the
ivBtch-house, where I found my friend eaged upy and de-
claiming against the English widi most dreadful vocifera-
tion. . After several hours' trouble, in the dead of night,
widi watchmen,, constables^ Bow-street runners, &c./&c.
I at last succeeded in getting him out oi durance vtV^p, and
we made. the best of our way to the London coffee-house,
which we reached at 3 o'clock in the morning; and here
I made a vow that I would never af^ accompany a Soots-
man to Vauxhall gardens, unless I previously knew that
he had so far divested himself of national prejudice^ as to
pay an equal respect to Englishmen as to those of his own
country. .
# ■" ■ , ' ' ' ■ ' ■ ■ ' ■
- t.
#
BltttLAllfl.
361
*^fm-v
\,){>»5,' ;>
CHAPTER LIV.
,A
Liverpool.
,,ij.'.vf»-'
ItLEFT London on the evening 6f thb 18th of August,
bftfae mail ooachy and, tiaveUing all night, passed tfaroiigh
UoBbridge, Stockton, and Oxford, whore » die celebrated
Ufuveisity ;. but I could see nothing of it at the hoar y^
posted. We continued our course tbrough Woodstock^
Shiptoil, iUid Stnatlbrd; and at 10 oPdock on the 19di in
atfnved at Birmihgham, distant frbm London 116 miles;'
^fitfRKiNoifAM is situalied m the niddke of a ficrtileand
popuknis cooi^,atiA is^in poihtof p6pubition,the fourth
tarni in £ng^aiRi^ ite inhabitants amoui^Ltingi to 73,67(X
Fort of the town lies low, and the housea' ave meah and un-
aghdjr^butaconsideiafok portion, is elevated, and abounds
with faandsame houses* The ftonlware manu&ctures of
BnmiinglKMlii are unnvalled, and vast quantities of good%
oC aiidiescfiptiora, have been made up annually, for the
Amaacan market. The works: of Bolton and Watt are at
Soho, in ^tt&^Aftighbourhood^ and are in a state of Qigani»
zation probably superior to any other in the worid. It is
Cilculal6i that^ ^noe the introduction of their improved
Steam en^ne, the labour saved by it alone, in Blitaih^
amounlBto 20 millions steriing annusdly. '^(
The trade of Birmingham is gready iaciiitated by canal
navigation, which is here very complete ; affording a water
VOL. I.
2 z
902^
TISAyBLS IN
communicution to London, Hull, Liverpool, and Bristol,
and throughout the whole interior of the country. From
Birmingham I travelled to Shrewsbury, in company with
a Mr. James, a civil engineer, who resides in Warwick-
shire, and as the country througbwhio^ we passed abound-
ed with mines of coal, iron, and beds of limestone, I
derived a good deal of information from him. He stated
diaf .le yearly income arising from the mines, in the
counties o£ Warwick and Stafford, was incredible, and the
number of : hands employed in the boweld<af thbiearfei
f\na immense*: . The business was remarkably^ well sytitain.
atized/he obsJBffved, and was highly conducive to theipro-
gress.of knowledge ^nd; liberality of sentiment. Bvemthe
^minds of the common workmen were affected by.a^vlew
of the gratid (opinuions of nature in the faedrtof theeprih,
and they badra degree of I intelligenae^ ind Aspirit otf >iiide-
pendlstnce qu&tejdiffbwnt (from >tlie svorkmen in the mimu-
faduring) tawiDA.r ;cl found' this 'gehtanan's oompenjr ypty
agreeable^; iiii a Joum^ together of 46 ^liies, wheni we^wr-
Jiiveidlnat rShrewsbiicy*
■.>M
r^!j/S)»rix1v»Bi^R'T.is''sitaated op th6vi^er:iSevetn,<9nd is a
jplaoei Kif considerable tnide,. but the stress airiiain>lw,i and
kheacihibAts^ lio very handsbme appeai'anGe.^; Bei^iin att
:oft thti pdimties. adjoimng Wal^s,> itjis welliealeullited fiv
theiwoolfc^ltrade, and d) con^derable' portuMiiof its fmanil-
fhotmes are calculated fot the Amehoari ii»slteti(t]artictillar^
pflalns adld flannels. <- i'.u, ■, "u -it ^'n^^r^p; vtr!i-.d<'^t4rf nnHr."
b ) On- Monday, the 81^ , of August^ X l^i Shifewsbilry
/Itii^y^io'clock, by the stage, and pc|sse4 ^^O^gfa £lles>-
mercj and Wrexham, to Chesierv at which we dinedk Here
|:hadMsuee totakeArwalkiTQund the eity^ along the top
•'9tr^».' /: ^n-ir'.jtli; : shjlqnioD \ ' ^•j.'»if>l rtbrci/rv «^rta^*'f^
'- - .'•-■-■ s -g . -^; •-■'
ttNR V'lBHOljAlfD.
363
ndiga
I? :^J?/fc^
of the wall with whi6h it is surrounded, frcim whence there
is a fine view. Some of the chief streets are singular in
their construction, being cut out of a rock, below the level •
of the ground ; and the houses have a portico in fWmts^
which serves for a covered foot-path. The shops and<
warehouses are in the sides of the rock, and on a leveK'
with the street, to which there is occasionallj an ascent by
stairs. Chester is the residence of a number of people
fioni Wales, with which country it carries on a considera-
ble tra^. Its population amounts to about 15,000.
9 From Chester I continued my journey 12 miles^ through
an agreeable^ open country^ and passing, the* Mersey, by a
fenry^boat, I arrived in Liverpool at six o'clock in the
evening. . ^, hoc
From the 22d of August to the 3d of September, I
was busily employed in Liverpool, makuig preparations
for my embarkation to America. During this period I
had.a little time for reflection on the situation of Engkind
and America ; and every thing seemed to portend most
important consequences. The British administration ap-
peared determined to adhere to the new system of block-
ade ;, and they were backed by the whole power and in*
flpenoe of the tory party, including the shipping interest^
the monied interest, and all the placemen and pensioners.
i%tl](e«ountry* Their opponents of the whig party, though
^1^ to their princip^s, were feeble and dispirited ; and
thus, secure in power and influence, and having a very
slender opposition, it was not reasonably to be expected _
that tbey would abandon a measure which formed a Qiost
important part olf their system of policy. On the other
hand, X was well convinced that the American government
woul^ set upi and persevere in a resistance of some kind,
■I ;
af4 ,4.^TB4y,aV9 OH ::^
whii^ these ofdon continued. Ffom a view of tlM recent
laeamres of that country, indeed, h was impossible tolbrm
an opinion what this resistance would be ; but I was well
aware, upon the whole, that the consequences resulting
firom the interruptions of conuaeroe, would tend much to
weaken the connection between the two countries, and that
America would every day become more independent of
Britain*
.Hi
.f^
e^'t
^t
^ ' f,^ 4i^ ■-.-:^ • -' ■^•'^-
•^
■ "■yd :
THE inXAMTIO IICEAM«
s#s
sent
bm
Iting
^to
I that
^ I J
m
|.- Mr--
vjNI^i!
■»('
■ •> ^'
,jagigg^^,,i..r<» u i ii i |)imrr i i .-
1 . ■
CRAFTEIt LT.
tAverpooly — ^^aiii(-« of Newfiuhdkmdy — New York,
Jl AVING finished my business in Liverpool, I engaged
a pasaiige for myself and son by the Pacific, captain Staun*
ton, for New York.
The other passengers were two merchants of New York ;
two Yorkshire merchants; a Liverpool merchant, who calU
ed himself 9Xi American citizen ; and a merchant of Savan-
nah in Georgia. We had ^so the captain and two mates
of the ship Manhattan, which had been sold in Liverpool.
The passengers had agreed to rendezvous at the King's
Arms tavern on the evening before the vessel sailed, at 10
o'ddck, to go on board together, as she was to weigh an-
chor very early in the morning. I had to step out of
town a litde way to transact some business with a friend,
and; the night being dark and wet, it was a little pest the
ifipointed hpur before we got to the place of rendezvous.
The company were gone, and we had to trudge through
lavtrpool in quest of a boat, but none was to be found.
It was quite dark and rainy ; and wet, perpleted, and dis-
appointed, we were landed in a small ale-house, on t>neof
the wharfs, at 1 o'clock in the morning. The landlord
livas t good-natured man, and used every effixt to get us
on board, but without e£fect; and I really began to be ap-
{Hehen^ve that we would lose our passage. At tength
aa Irish sailor came in from a neighbouring vessel tc get
S66
.ilASTBAVBLt ON
a pint of ale, and the landlord whiapeted to me, that if I
spoke him fair^ perhaps he could get roe on board. I
thought the fairest way of speaking him would be to use
his own style, and assumed the character of a countryman
in distress, which produced an immediate eflfect on paddy's
feelings, and he told me if Morgan would go, he woukL
He called Morgan, who, with considerable reluctance,
complied. The next difficulty was to find the vessel, for
it was nearly as daiic as pitch, and we had to go about
three miles up the river. I did not wish to talk much, for
fcur that my speech ** would bewray me," and, as good
luck would have it, I did not need, for. the veiy first ship
we hailed was the Pacific. I paid the Irishmen for their
trouble, and we went on board. As they wei^e starting
from the vessel, I heard one say, '* Faith, Pat, I believe
he is a Scotsman alter all" ** Well, well, it does not
signify," says the other, ** what he is; he has dpne fhe
faif thing by us, any how,"
" Tpt,f ' S9i4 I, *< are we not all relations ?"
•■^T f'
,'l- •)«''■■ •t'"''^-
Sterne.
'■rt- '.>]
' %■ ■■
^On the morning of the Sd of September, the ship got
under weigh, at S o'clock, and ^ wind being fiur, we
were round the rock by 5 ; and at 6, discharged the pilots
The breeze continued from the north-east, and we had a'
line run. At 7 o'clock, we were up.with the point of Ayr;
at 10, at Great Ormshead ; at 12 we passed Skerries-light^^
and shaped our course to the south-west, through St*
Qeorge's channel. A vast number of ships came out of
the river along with us, but we had lost sight of themiall,
except the John Bull, a fine English ship; she kept iny
sight oi
Pacific I
We I
.« aeries
which ti
The wii
till the ]
it contin
almost ii
well by t
d4th, wi
land. H
before ot
had a fin
wil,aQdi
I9ite^ ci
Theimpi
hertbroui
idialiMio^
hlpwiiig;
whei!e][J)e<
accompani
nin«»iByt
,&>u]hU^.
which, the
SQWnd^b
*e scfuth;
fprmei; pas:
^se banks
t<u n* I f^oboRite.
THE ATLAMTIO OCEAN.
Uet
sight of ut oil the way out of the channel, although the
Pacific conaidcnibty outsailed her.
We passed Cape Clear on the 5th, i^MtT which we had
,a series of w6st afid nortli west whids, till the 15th, by
which time we wero nearly up wkh the Western Islands.
The wind then shifted to the south-west, and continued
till the 19th, when it again, shifted >tt% the north-west, arid
it continued to cAo^ roimtf fh>m south-west to north-west,
almost inoeasantly ; <but as the Paciftct sailed remarkably
well by the* wind, wt made toleraUe pixigres8,;and by the
S4th, we were nearly up with the Bonics of. Newfound-
land. Here a phenomenon happened, which I had never
before observed at sea. At 3 o'okuckt in theiafiiernoon, we
had a fine steady breeze, to whiqh/ |ve were carrying all
sail, and the ship was running through the water at the
ilfite of eight npoles an hour ; wheif, ^11 of a sudden, »he
ran out.qf tk^, tren^, and was hfoalmed in an instant.
The impulse continued ibr some little time, and carried
her through the water probably about half a mile ; at which
i4ista|K!^ rwe could perceive that the breeze we had left was
blQwillg as strong as ev^r. It is said that ships are sometimes
,^l^iated in thi^ wi^y on^some par^ of the coast of Afiica,
whe^elhe cahns are fi«q\ient and oflofig duration ; and often
accompanied by treme^idpu^ stornisr, of rounder and light-
ning^ ; fiy the ^5^ we appeared to be Q^)i^ Banks of New-
finrndl^* ^ The weather; was foggy, and the thermometer,
which* the day ^fore, had been at 7g^ fell to $6% We
soilind^ but fow4 no bottom ; in^ee^, we were nearly at
tiie squjthr pointy where the water is v^ry deep^ On my
former passage, I made som,e remarks on the formation of]
these banks, wl^i^ph my pr^nt observations tended to cor^
r^^?9«^?ft . I .W Jwwd a .great AqsX, pf the fisheries on
■vit
^2M8
'^^ tRAI^Btt OK SKt
them ; but, nbturhhstanding I had crossed them tvirioe^ I
never saw any thing of the fishing vesoels, nor did ive take
any fish.
V This great bank is about 330 miles in length, firom
south to norths and about 75 in breadth, from east to west.
The depth of wMer oil it, is from 15 to 60 fiithoms« The
fishefy commences abont the 10th of May, and continues
tiH the end of September. The cod is cured in two
ways; one bj drying tliem, the other by putting them
up in pickte. The fisheries are computed to yield up-
v^uds of /. 300,000 sterling, annually, for the supply of
the catholic countries alone; and such is the immaise sup-
ply offish^ that, notifrathstanding the annual' dnd^, there b
ho sen^ble diminution. «' ii -^j^.a^ii ..Uirzj.c^ira^. ^
^'^After leaving the bfii^s, ive had a seti^ oimiStmA
iHSrth-west winds, n^hicb %nt us beyond th^Gulph Stream,
and as far to the southward as the latitude^ of 37^ 30,
m^here^ we found the weaither very warm^ the dhemiometer
'i4sihgtO-78P'and SO^'-"*^^' ^-"^■•1...-.-:- r-^-..- b,!i -imi-'-iLr^:^
V The weather was clear and fine, and the moon being in
ft fiivoiirao^^ pdsition, we had luiiar observations dnj di^-
rent mornings. The result we fouhdto be very'^sorrect,
a proof of the great importance of ^ atplieation ^ astro-
nomy to one of the most useful arts.
""^ The wind shifted back agtun to the southward^ and we
bore away to the north-west, untU the 6th of October,
when« we took a fair wind, which carried us to the Jersey
shore on the 8th, 40 miles south of the lig^t-house^ We
had a southerly ivind, and were running to the northward,
and would soon have mad^ Sandy Hook, but night came
on, and we were deceived by a light, which we mistook
for the lighthouse ; in consequence of which» we lay to for
thenigli
soon dc
house;
received
news, ai
again en
govemm
for not e
however,
i^ence of
papers, w
in everym
kine; am
openly a\
vemment,
Mr. Jefiei
terpart, 1
The pa
captain St
Ihaveev<
a mate ai
vessel wai
wasremar
all the wa^
Having
with a ligl
Narrows, :
we were v
York Gaz<
(shipping ti
well of the
very^-espec
VOL. I.
•
THE AtLAKTlG OCEAN.
369
the night. Next morning, at di^.brcak, we set sail, and
soon descried the high lands, and afterwards the light-
house ; and between 2 and 3 o'clock in the aftcnK)on we
received a pilot. We flocked round the pilot to learn the
news, and were ii^9rmed, that the non-intercourse- was
again enforced by proclamation ; and that the American
government were very much dissatisfied with the British
for not executing Mr. Erskine's treaty. On this subject^
however, I soon found that there was a considerable diffe*
i*ence of opinion; indeed, some of the American news-
papers, which we perused, justified the British government
in every step, condemning diat of America and Mr. Ers-
kine; and one of our company, an American citieen too,
openly avowed that he could have no confidence in a go-
vernment, unless there was a king at the head of It ; even
Mr. Jefferson, he believed, would have acted a much bet-
ter part, had he been king of America. a ... k.%«
The passengers were, upon the whole, agreeable, and
captain Staunton was one of the most obliging shipmasters
I have ever been at sea with. He was well provided in
a> mate and good sailors, and every thing on board the
vessel was conducted with great propriety. The cabin
was remarkably well furnished, and we fared sumptuously
(dl the way. .,^*»*ff^^^, *,.... ^, .^^vt,— ,-#f
Having crossed the bar, we proceeded up the cliannel
widi a light but fair breeze, and at 5 o'clock passed the
Narrows, and stood in for the quarantine ground. Here
we were visited by Lang and Turner, editors of the New
York Gazette, who, by their indefatigable attention to the
shipping trade of tlie port of New York, have deserved
well of their countr}', and have been amply rewarded by a
very^respectable patronage and support to their paper.
VOL. I. 3 a
t I
370
TSJiVELS IN
' Connected with this establishment is that of the Mer-
cantile Advertiser, the editors of which pay one half of the
expence of procuring the shipping intelligence, and, of
course, receive the same information as the Gazette ; and
so attentive are the parties to the business, that Mr. Lang
has a house at the quarantine ground, where he resides
with his family during the summer, and speaks every ves-
sel that comes into port. By this means the shipping intel-
ligence in these two papers is early and authentic, and they
are the most respectable mercantile registers in New York.
:': We were only a few minutes here when the health offi-
cer came on board, who, finding all well, gave us a bill of
health, and we set sail up the bay, and landed at th^ wharf
at 8 o'clock. I immediately waited upon my friends,
Mr. and Mrs. Stewart, from yfhom I had, as before, a
friendly welcome. -
?:*4l^li::.*)!
f'
PENXSTLTANtA.
371
CHAPTER LVL
AVw KorA:, — Philadelphiaf — Savannah,
I CONTINUED in New York until the 11th of No-
vember, when, having some business to attend to in Phi-
ladelphia, I set out for that city by the mail stage. We
left New York at 1 o'clock in the afternoon, and next
morning, at 5 o'clock, we reached Philadelphia, distant 97
miles.
My business here was in friendly hands, and I got i6
arranged to my satisfaction in a short time, when I had
a few days to spend with my friends. At the house
where I lodged, a gentleman sometimes called to spend
the evenings. . My friend and he were two of the most
extensive and respectable merchants in Philadelphia, and^
like myself, both were concerned in the British trade* ^
We agreed in opinion as to the utility of this trade, butt
we differed regarding the cause of its interruption. I at-
tributed it to what I considered the true cause, which will
be readily inferred from the foregoing pages; but my
friends were inclined to attribute it to the hostility of the
democratic party in America to foreign commerce. Con-
sidering this idea incorrect, I opposed it, which led to a
pretty long discussion, in which I had occasion to state
the view I took of foreign commerce generally, and the
importance of the relations between America and Britain.
My friends j^ssentcd to the correctness of my opinion, but
■m
• *•
0:
372
TRAVELS III
insisted that it was so opposite to that of the democratic
party, that, were I to draw it up, and send it to a demo-
cratic newspaper, it would not be inserted. Considering
this a very good plan to bring the matter to the test, I
drew up an essay, which received their approbation. If
was sent to the Aurora^ and two days thereafter, made its
appearance in that paper*. i*wi
i While I staid at Philadelphia, the negociations with the
British miniBter, Mr. Jackson, were broken off, and it
dearly appeared to me, that nothing but the ascendancy
of the whig party in Britain would prevent a war ; but
from the intelligence which I received from Britain, public
and private, I thought it extremely probable that this as-
cendancy would soon take place ; at any rate, I considered
it would inevitably follow the appointment of the-princc
of Wales as regent, and that event ^vas daily expected.
I was guided by thb view in my commercial arrange-
ments, and took my measures accordingly.
't: From Philadelphia I returned to New York, and from
^thence went by sea to Savannah, where I arrived on the
17th of December, without meeting any adventure wortli
^recording.
On my arrival in Savannah, I found matters in a dread*
ful state. The stock of goods was disassorted, and would
not bring half the original value ; and the other funds,
consisting chiefly of outstanding debts, if ever they would
be collected at all, it could only be done at a labour, ex-
pence, and loss of time, that would probably be greater
than the ultimate value of them. A great many of them
were ui suit, and the courts of kiw were suspended, so
* S9e Appendix) No. IV.
#^
GEORGIA.
373
Kiratic
demo-
dering
test, 1
m. It
ade its
that the recovery by that process was very tedious and
uncertain. Our debtors amounted to the amazing num-
ber of 185, and they were so scattered over the land, that
they occupied a space of nearly 200 miles square. Some
landed property belonged to the concern, and some ne«
groes (a species of commodity which I never wished to
deal in), and these had fallen in value. We had also a
store, 220 miles in the interior of the country; but it held
out no better, prospect : while our American debts were
large and urgent, a great portion of them custom-house
bonds. I was absolutely sickened when I looked into
the books, where I had nothing to contemplate but the
wrecks of a ruined estate, and the fragments of it scattered
to and fro Uiroughout the land ; so that no time could be
fixed for > its being eventually wound up. However, there
was nothing for it but to arm myself with resolution, and,
after three months most ardent application, I got it reduced
to some sort of order, and, having made a new arrange-
ment with my partner to carry on a commission business,
while the old concern was winding up, I set out on a £o/-
lecting toury taking in my way the store up the country.
A few of the observations which I made on my journey
shaU be commumcated in the next chapter. 4
'mm-
"'3:- £ M'.,*:,,- ::."■";.:'- V-5S-' .'"?'- "Sti 'H^^V JS' ■^■<«¥f '
r:
374
TRAVELS IN
n
It in -^"^ .
-m (.V'-'-*^ -r^—
■■4-«fei%-
:^.
CHAPTER LVII. ^^s»^
4j • /
Savannah^ — Lomsvilley—Grcensburg^ — Augusta,
On the 2d of April I left Savannah, on horseback, at 5
o'clock in the afternoon. A young gentleman in a chair
accompanied me, and we took the road to Louisville. The
weather was Avarm and sultry. We travelled 18 miles
through a low marshy country, abounding in thick woods,
but having a thin population, to PoweWs, and here we
stopped for the night. About 11 o'clock, there was a
tlvmder-gust to the south-east ; the wmd shifted to the
north-west, and the weather became suddenly cold.
^ April 3d, we travelled through a wretched looking
country 12 miles, to breakfast ; and 12 miles further to
dinner, part of the way through pine barrens. The coun-
try was now a little more elevated, but the soil poor and
sandy, and so continued 20 miles, to Jones\ where wc
stopped for the night. Jones has a thriving plantation^
and a fine peach orchiird.
• April 4th, we travelled through a country nearly similar
to that we passed yesterday, 14 miles, when, entering
Burke county, we met with more improvements, and saw
many fine peach orchards; and the trees being in blospom,
formed a very, agreeable contrast to the barren ^vastes
around liiem. At 6 o'clock in the evenmg, we reached
Louisville, 100 miles ft-om Savannah. I found the seat
of government had been removed to Milledgeville ; but
1. .
^
itie#fi
*■,•■¥ ■
GEORGIA. ' t
375
my friend Dr. Powell still remained at this place; and I
passed a very agreeable evening with his family. The
doctpr was not at home, and I regretted much that I had
not an opportunity of thanking him for his kindness and
attention when I was here before.
April 5. At half past 8 o'clock we set out for Sparta.
A mile from Louisville, we passed a considerable stream
called Rocky Comfort, where there are a number of mills ;
and this being the boundary between the high and low
country, the scenery now becomes more variegated. Five
miles beyond this the road forks; we took the right-hand
road, but it was the wrong one, and led us six miles out of
our way, through a barren country. The country im-
proves towards the Ogeeche river, which we crossed at
the Shoals, and here there are several important mill^.-
The banks of the river are steep and rocky, and the soil
in the neighbourhood is pretty fertile, producing wheats
com, &c. After crossing the river, we passed over vast
masses of rock, and, travelling 14 miles, we reached Sparta,
towards which the soil improves, and there is a pretty fer- .
tile country round it. ' i
Sparta is a small town, but until of late it had a ver3r>
flourishing commerce, and a great deal of mercantile busi- -
ness was transacted in it. It has npw, in consequence of
the stoppage of foreign commerce, suffered most severely.
Many of the merchants, and country people, cannot pay
their debts; and the winding up of the business, through
the medium of the courts of law, has produced eflects dis-
tressing tf.) contemplate. I was informed that there was
now no demand for British goods at all ; and all the people
were clothing themselves in homespun.
?.%':; cT
"■ tj^' i *-y.''*"''^'*^ *- k/^r^Tf *' >' *.- ,; ■ ■ y*-i^ r*v r^.-^?
376
TBAVBL8 IN
w At SpQita I parted with my young friend, wha feturned
to Savannah, and I went further up the country to Greens-
burg. Meeting with a countr3anan who kept a tavern
about half-way, I availed myself of his company, and lodg-
ed at his house during the night My fellow-traveller,
who was very communicative, told me that the country
in this district was healthy, and the lands generally good.
The price of land uncleared, ivas irom two to five dollars
per acre. On reaching the house, I found lus family all
busily employed in manufacturing, and they showed me a
number of the articles, which were very good, some of
them handsome. They told me, that, besides supplying
the family, they made a considerable quantity of goods
for sale. ^ -. .i;. .!*^u-;r.U'-j-..i^J4 '-i-
"- April 7. The morning being beautiful, I started at
daylight, and travelled through a very pleasant country^ 13
miles, to Greensburg. The soil is good, and abounds
with a ^species of timber, called dogwood, which bears a
white flower, and being now in full blossom, the woods
formed a most beautiful appearance. The north-west
wind, which commenced on the 2d, continued un^ now,
and the weather was healthy and delightful. ^^ "^
Greensburg is a handsome town, containing about 200
inhabitants, and is improving ; but the mercantile business
is in a veiy dull state. The country is handsome round it,
and the situation is elevated and healthy.
At 12 o'clock, noon, I set out for Mount Fertwrtf
in the new purchase, where our country-stCMfe t<^ si-
tuMed, 22 miles fh)m Greensburg. Eight miles from
Greensburg, through a pretty good, but thinly-settled coun-
try, is the Oconee river, and three miles beyond this, through
a country nearly siinilar, is the Appalachy. These two
GBOBGIA.
377
riven are very fine steeams, and I passed both by boots.
From the Appalachy to Mount Vemon,^ I travelled 11
milea in the new purchase, and i was really surprised to
observe the number of settlements that had been made in
the short space of four years. The greater part of the lots
were disposed of, and I was hardly ever out of sight of a
plantation. The surface of the country is agreeably uneven,
abounding in springs and small rivulets, and, firom the ap-
pearance of the people, 1 have no doubt but the country is
very healthy*
II spent several days in this place, on one of which I
went to Madison, the county-town, six miles from Mount
Vernon. This was laid out only a year before, yet it is
now a thriving place, having a court-house, a number of
dwelling-houses, three taverns, and as many stores.
On the 15th of April, I left this district, on my return
to Greensburg. On my arrival there, I found the inhabit
tants in a state of alarm. Advice had just been received,
that a letter had been found in the state of Virginia, dated
from Greensburg, stating that all was ready in Georgia,
and recommending prompt measures to be pursued in
executing the work in Virginia. It was presumed that
the work alluded to was the assassination of the white peo-
ple. The iakurm being given, it had spread through the
country in itll directions; and the people had adopted mea- '
sures of preicaution. At this place the guards paraded the
streets all night i4a
On the 16th^ at 12 o'clock, I left Greensburg for Au-t
gusta, accon^)anied by a doctor of medicine^ a very intel- %
ligent gentleman, who lived 16 miles below Greensburg.
While mte travelled togeth^ we had a good deal of con-
vsrsation f«gardifig the present alarm in the coimtry, con-
voi. !•
3 b
378
TRAVELS IM
cemmg which we made inquiry at all the settlementB we
paased, and of all the people we saw. We foundthat some
of them were a good deal alarmed ; others considered that
there was no danger ; and some ridiculed the whole as an
iidle tale. But they all thought there was a propriety in
taking measures of precaution. .•i^v«()^ri>tAi>u.
^^ I was satisfied^ upon the whole, that the alarm was
greater than the danger; and that there never can be a sue
cessful organization of the black people against the whites,
upon a large scale, in Georgia; nor indeed in any part of
the United States. A shcHt glance at the subject may be
liseful, because I found that it was generally supposed in
Britain, that the southern states wbuld be eventuaBy de-
stroyed in this way. -t'-^v *vr; »rtUt ^'*-i'i-f '^^^a ■''t'Uih^ HHfjun
t»^ By the census of 1800, 1 find that all the slaves north
of the state of Delaware, amount to only 35,516 ; being
such a small proportion to the white inhabitants, that tiiey
Can have no influence ; and as a gradual sboMtion is going
t%n, the proportion is diminishing every year^^ ?:• '- vj^*
t In those states where slavery- exists in full force^ the
relative numbers, in 1800, stood as in the following table.
Free Persons, Slaves^
Delaware Wi^i 58,130«iJi'S*-^f*« i6,143
Maryland . i^f^ 241,985 107,707
Virginia »?; ^v«f '534,396 345^796 -
Kentucky 180,602 ^. 40^343
N. Garolina^HKI 334,807 M<«ir 133^296
S. Carolina^ '199,340
.•?,:?«>
jsgws-v;
^.■
Geoi^>
Tennessee
102,989
• 92,018
1,744,267
146^151 .
59,699
13,584
I i .M 'i ; ' 'I '
852,699 jbv
Fron
berthe
that eve
gfeater
thatiallj
strengiA
and thoa
the negr
say attei
stnictioti
heading!
at an.
•But, in
the count
imr<oonsic
armed m4
withanx
on the pa
without a
the pokwei
writing; I
part wouU
every adv
^ It has
plan to as
whole in^c
of this ki
detection;
slaves ini
notice. .1
in the Uni
slaves attac
6E0BG1A.. ;;
37^
From this table it appears, that the free people outnum-
ber the slaves above two to one, and we cannot suppose
thst ever the proportion on the side of the slaves will be
greater than it is now, more especially wlien we consider
that Jail importation has ceased. Hence the mere physical
str^gth is above two to one on the side of the white people^
and those who possess any degree of intelligence among
the negroes, are fully a^are of this, and must know that
gny attempt at insurrecdon would end in their own de<%
stniction;' ,; It is only by men of intelligence among them,
heading an insurrection, that they could have any chance
iBut, in the next pkce, the fwhoh artificial strength of
the country is in the hands of the white people; and when
i«v< consider that a. single despot) lat the head of a band of
armed men^ comparatively few, can rule a whole country,^
with a rod^ iron^ we can calculate what eflK^t an attempt
on the part Isf one third of « oatbn, in a state of slavery,
without antt% without ammunition, without education, or >
the poivver of : holding conversation with one another by
writing ; wei oaui calculate what e£fect an attempt on their
part would have t6 destroy the other two thirds, who have
every advantage that the others want. m:^'^
^\t has been supposed that the slaves could organize a
plan to assassinate the white people, and to perform the
whole intone night. . The? thing is impossible. No plan
of this kind can be oi^anized,' on a large scale, without
detection; and the power to organize such a plan, by the
slaves ini these states, is so limited, as hardly to merit
notice. Besides all this, there is probably hardly a family
in the United States, where there is not one or more of tlie
slaves attached to th£m> from some peiional consideration.
~.:-h^'uK riHiiX J)trH
■.ua \X
380
TRAVSLB IN
The women, in particular, are a great many of them em-
ployed in the capacity of domestic lervanta, and some of
them are as much the confidence of their mistresses as
ladies' maids are in £ngiand ) others have nursed the ohil-
dren; and the whole have less or more associated with the
white children when young. These are all so many ties
of afiection, which but a small majority among the negroes,
I believe, would be willing to break, m order to organize
rebeMion ; and it will be perceived that a single discovery^
by one slave, leads to the detection of a 'whcic plot
> But, indeed, it appears to me that the blacksrare in ge-
neral a good-natured, well-disposed, peaceable people, and
nothing but ill usage so extreme as to drive them to a state
of desperation, could ever bring about any general plan for
the assassination of the white people. . There may be per-
tipular local circumstances of revolt ; but none is ever to
be apprehended of a nature sufficient to endanfpor the safety
of the southern states, or any one individual state.
'*' Having travelled 3Q niiles, through a pretty pleasant
country, I arrived in the evening at Washington^' which is
a pleasant little town, containing about IQOi houses; and
the fields in its neighbourhood are in a iiigh' state of culti>
vation. ■•.'.- • i :'■.-■<.• ,. m; • , j,;- • >•
^ April 17th. I left Washington at day-light, and at tci.
reached Ray's mills, a handsome settlement on a considera-
ble stream of water. Having some litde business to transact
het«, I stopped all day. The people in the house where I
lodged had a very extensive manufactory of homespun ;
and they were all sulxpmtially clad in cotton dOth, of their
own manufacture, some of it elegant. /?} . a rr
4> On die 18th I travelled 16 miles, through a pretty good
country, to Columbia Court-House, a small place, hand-
somely situated, 22 miles west from Augusta.
MpdioioiAsi^'*
381
On the 19th, I travelled through a.country nearly similar
to that I pasaed <hn lugh the day befcve ; towards Augusta
the soil is good, and the country improves in appearance,
being: in a high state of cultivation. I reached Augusta
at 12 o'clock, and being a place 1 always admired, I stopt
here some days. i
One of my first calls was on my old friend the Major,
with whom 1 travelled from New York to Boston, four
years befiMne; «id we spent a few hours together, in which
we recounted ourtadventures on Long Island sound. The
gentleman wich.whomllodged having a taste for natural
philosophy, chemistry, and mechanica, I had always a rich
intellectual fi»st on my return to my lodgpngs.
I left Augusta on the 26th for Richmond springs, where
I saw my old friend the poet and lua* sable mistress, with
whom I lodged two days, and then passed over to
Waynesborough, where being hospitably entertained a few
days by some very respectable planters in that neighbour-
hood, I set out for Savannah on the 3d of May, in
company with two very agreeable friends, and arrived on
the 5th at noon..
During this journey to the upper country, I made every
inqiiiry that I could regarding the state of its commercial
concerns, and I was satisfied that it had undergone a great
revolution since I was in the. country before. The staple
commodity of the state is cotton, and it had so fallen in
value, as to cut ofi" upwards of one third of the income of
the country. It followed that the inhabitants must curtail
their expenditure in proportion. *i^ccordingly found that
all the people in the interior of the country, were clothed
in homespun. ' In almost every &mily a cotton manufac-
tory was to be seen, and in some instances they had in-
r^
9
382
TSAVBLS JN : >t
troduced spinning, upon a pretty large scale, byjemiies.
At a parade of the militia, at Augusta^ I \i^as toldf that
out of 500 men, only two were to be found who had a
single article of British manuiactures about them. It had
become feshionable-etery where to wear homespun, and
from the very substantial stuff the people were making, and
the agreeable emi^oyment it afforded to the young woQien
of the country, I was convinced that this trade would en-
crease probably > to nearly the total exoluaion^ of « British
g^di^s.ihxn the state* This was fer £rom being ftittecing
tome; and the commissron businessv: in whieh iwe ihad
embarked, was milich affected by the low price of ,oot<iQiii,
and the general dulll state, of ' trade. Having.thcreforo vtxy
litde/to do^ I confided the business to (the management of
iky partner, and set out for the northern states, by way of
Gha^lestori^'>';Mff•'!»#f1>f^/di)|?j^'^1*l¥vl!^^v^tf^^^^n'^^^^^^ . ^
ChaHi
On
captair
inglye
river, \
fore da
Charic!
landed
Here
forturia
the cil^
terition
a £sw d
v*J!>uri
our wa
repfiirs
sumed
defence.
and is o
tirely fri
and con
OnS
captaiin
vessei, 1
was, on
.*'
SOUTH CAROLINA.
383
miSes.
I, that
I had a
It had
in, and
ig,and
lyomen
lid en-
British
atteising
we ihad
3i»v€fy
mcDtof
way of
>u>«ftv CHAPTER LVni.
Ch^Hestdny-^N&vt) York, — Philadelphia, — Staten Island,
On the 9th of June I left Savannah, with rtiy old friend,
captain Cooper, in the Delight. The weather was exceed-
ingly sultry, and we had a light southerly breeze down the
river, but we were favoured by the tide, and got to sea he-
fore dark, when a fine breeze sprung up, and we reached
Chaiieston light-house by day-light At 8 o'clock, .we
landed' in the city. ■ ■ .;*^"^'** ••; ni^:?^ •^i^i: • 4-^
Here I was invited to lodge with a firiend, which was a
fortunate circumstance, for I had been but a short time in
the city when I was seized with a fever ; but, by timely at-
ter.ition and good nursing, I got clear of it in the course of
a fisw days.
louring my stay here, I went to see Sullivan's Island. In
our way we passed the fortifications, where considerable
repfiirs and alterations had taken place; and it was pre-
sumed the harbour was now in a very respectable state of
defence. Sullivan's Island is an excellent summer retreat,
and IS open on all sides to the sea breeze, so that it is en-
tirel}' finee from every vestige of marsh or putrid effluvia,
and consequendy fix)m all epidemical sickness.
On Sunday, the I7th June, I went on boaitl the Eliza,
captain Leslie, for New York. This waG a very handsome
vessel^ remarkably well found in every respect, and she
was, on this occasion, crowded with passengers, having no
3U
« TBAVEL9 IN
less than 24. On crossing the bar, we put to sea with a
north-east windv which sent us a considerable way to the
south of our course; and after being beat about with head
winds for several days, we took a heavy gale from the south-
east, which nearly put us- ashore on, Cape Look-out shoals.
The gale subsided, but we had still head winds until the
26th, when, near Cape Hatteras, we took a fair wind, which
carried us into New York on the 30th.
.^/Nothing material occurred in this city until th^ 4th of
July, when the anniversary of indepeikdence was cdebraled
with great splendor, and was equally attended ta by both
the political parties. The federal procession consisted
principally of the Washington and Hamilton Societies^, in
number 700 or 800 ; that of the republicans' waft composed
of the Tammany Society, Manhattan Society, andthe diffe*
rent trades^ sobieties in the city. The processions Mere
conducted' feq^ectlvely to different churches, where, ^after
|)ra3%F^!the deolaration of indq)endence waisread, /and^flii
oration delivered ; acoonlpanicd with sevdnd pieces of ap-
propriate vocal and instrumental music. ^ ■ > -
r r ^ outward' display 'of great festivity < was^ exhibited all
ov«r the^cky, by firing guns, ringing -bells^- wi^^ mtlittty
and other ^pTocessionB!; and the evening was spent i^en^t
rally in a social manner, by different saciede9< and private
circles. In every party, they had a regubir s^ries> of ilT
toasts, one for each stalte, and a number 6f v^oluiMxttr toasts
from the company. These toasts were veiy isentimental^
and may be cc^sidcred as a very good batometeribr dis»
covering the particular political opitiions df th^^pGortyt )
^f Having no particular btisinese in the cify, Ifiiv«iit1ioiive
a few weeks on Long Island^ ^Mch is a ddigktful mxttif-
iher residence. During this time, I toc^a jauiit as>fk'as
Jamaic
New 1
ricHi ,
and 801
respect
, New Y
educate
country
ofhUls,
couiitigj!
spent ^,
whole, ci
trees, an
bnd, wl
j^^herid
nentcoiu
viouatQ
tm forn
lantine g
sonta 01
York rfxfs
Meim
critic*),;;^
banmoe/o
d^^iii4
duoed an
VOL. I
'•»••
NEW TOBK.
385
ath a
to the
head
K)Uth-
hools.
til the
whidi
4th of
ibrated
y both
tisisted
njposed
ya Mcrt
ne, after
sofap^
>•■;•■' '
itcdali
mtlitary
ptivate
rr toasts
imcntal;
lor dis^
tyt' )'•■-
to live
Vsumv-
Jamaica, a prettf little village, 12 miles to the eastward of
New YoriE, and l^ the finest road I had yet seen iw Ame-
rica* The-. settlements by die way are yar^^^'handsoi^,
and seme of «the buildings are elegant. A mimber of veiy
respectable inhabitants, some of whom are inerchantsvof
New York, reside in Jamaica ; and it' has a seminary for
education, esteemed one of the best in the state. The
country round is very pleasant, and to the nordi is a ridge
of hUls, fi:om whence there is a very fine view of the adjacent
oouiiti^,\.9nd a ponsidemble distance out atfto^ ' Having
spent #;^ at thb place, I retimied in Ihe evemng by
Newtown, 9 pleasant litde village,! near East riyer^ In the
wholecif^uit^Ifowid the sides of the. road dad. with. fruiU^
tiees, and the crops of fruit very abundantk \ t -r v#
V, #K)iit'this time I fell in with a gientleman fi^om Sco|«>
land, who was in expectation of a considerable quantity
of^pmis i» t^e ;fiiU^ and we agrieed to trsnosact busim^ to-
jf^theri during thst season, wi|h a view ;Qf >fi > moiie perm% _
nent com]«xio% if^^ trade co|i^^ open. Hayi^, pre^
viousto this, determine to leios^n in AiQcriqa^Ih^
ten for my t&mily, ! arid, expect them > (early in the ^41 ;
^^^ jbiNOVdfr toreoeive them, J[<^k lo^^ings at.the qua-
nmliiie gPQund, on $taten Island^ and Jbfiving stationed my
son ia our -p/sn^ lodgii^s, I accompai^ed tnro of my New
Yorii frjiends to Fbil^d^lpliia., r>
We^vveUed by t|ie pail st^ge, and were determined to
be/inmyi One iatouria|ef«J»q», being flfiij^
9ii|de9ome.yeiyiin^(P«ted4Ms^rt»tio^^ and
critic4 ; butiin the course<>f,oni^ oC the^e, a eert^ protu-
btnuiQe (OR his fiipe»./ca]|ef^f j^ ^os^, happenf^ to eomesud-
d^9^ »iCDii|^t with his neigMMiur*^ ^Ib^ whioh pKOr^
duoed ail TiMlfun^t sp , sqli^, that ^;tput v^ i^to h)s
-#^
VOL. I.
3 c
'U
i ,)'
386
■■*
TftA¥i&L8 IN
iqxmtifigifit, and made hkn rqient the vbknce of his ges-
tiiie& in f'^t^s €f bioodi** Thi» gave our amuaentents a
VHfff tiwiiyMdkVocal music succeeded. We had ainumber
of excellent s|pigs, to the great entertainment of a 3roung
i£ngli8hman, of oi^r company, who, at the dose of efich,
:iwould.:exclaim, sh:%tt4ir£ii; ,.,ir <■ ^: .
.^ . « Xy^t^ good apng, and very well sun^^, ,f^,y
^ ^®*'''y companions every one."
^''^Our Engllljhman, who was a yh^«^ impt^tatiM frcm
Maiic^ster, entertained us with a long condequential i!9tory
^bout the great demand for Henglish mamtfaictui^ itt ^ewt't*.
-** Thedm<? trdde/' says he, " is so brisk^ th^ Aottf iwdSp
"^jlor^ not kable to bring the goods so fast forward Aof thigy
hxsre i^/tetled, hand^we don't care a fig for th^'^m^mm
ir> Intiiecourscof our jourticy, we encountered a SEta^lbH
df people, some oi whoiti, vft were informed; had been it
% iiamp meeting ; -toid it p^teaeher froin New^ YoriCj inrho
had some niHie before htsen interdicted by die^'corpohrtion
&om disturbing the peace of that ci^ hf\Ah^cisieiitficitks,
«rt: in the front c^ the cahiage* A gobd litany ^ttici§ms
^^iviere passed on this etoimstahCej al^ ^On die nature of
^iean^ mtetingii and the fecility with which ddbf pbstOvM
be transacted at them, by certsdn mtimbiers of ^e^omtnu-
yty ; which oocJalsic^ied k go6d d^d^ 6t Ittdghter in our
'^sfe^: This tjalkd th^ prfeichltii'ititd^ctidn. - *' Theiie^^i^
he myiaughtd- in lifeH^*» sayisf he*' *«^ tifc d^^ do you
1cti6W diat ?'* said tme of the cmnpany^ ** Wer6 y6a cvfei-
thiere ? You foHoWs seem to n&k« a» fite with 'W^ dieter
af«* eeonbniy ofM iSodiy B^hteis^sdoittMyih^ BIS if^you
were pscrthcr^ in * ibk c<>ncern ; artd truly, from the ri^
PEKNSTIiYAiriA.
987
iisges-
lents a
lumber
young
■ rtfv-
Hi ftt^
ial Story
mt onds
•
itntncttti
tsigefttH
been it
% who
potation
tftCttt&Sf
t^iMns
iture of
i^'tould
*omintt'
Jn^our
ere will
do'yoti
6ucvfcr
ft oroer
if^you
he ti^
whioh are carried Oil * at your camp meetings. aUd o^\M
places, iktwould appear that you are conoeoted in jtnvk
with the old boy, if not directly as paitnor^ral Iea8l|.a9
agents." He was proceeding to ask what commission
diey had fbrmanaghig such bua&ness, when the stage drov^e
on j and we left the ^* eccentric preacher'' muttering som^-^
tlung to himself which we did not distuictly htsar. Y.i>lr>^^Mi
, Before we arrived at Princeton, our law}^erwaA so over-
come by exertion, that he fell asleep in the carriage; and
so iiist had> Morpheus locked^up his facultie#that>we could
not rousev^hkn to silpper ; and icven after 'supper he com
dnued hiflt^nap in the carriage. But in one of hisinodding
fitSxhe had pitched his hat, '*a special new one,'V<(wtff
ffoardix and when he awoke near. Tnenton, he made this
Iinown tpv the company, with lamentatbns at his bard &te«
There is » certain roguishness in mankind, Which impels
ttftrn tp lau^ at their neighbours* misfortunes, wheiLthey
nm of ' a trivial natukie, and- attended' by ludicrousitcircumr
stances; W^ answered our friend's observMions by a loud
laugh ; in which none joined moifi heartily than the gentle^
man whose ^elbow had unfortun&tely given him the bloodj
nose. But lieindiilged his mii^h Without adverting to the
stateof hb own pericranium; .putting up his hand, he^ felt
it was bucv and exclaimed, vthat he had lost his hat toa
This gavCfthe- company a fresh cause for i indulging their
mirdi, wtd^madc'the lawyer in part reconciled to his loss.
On our arrival at Philadelphia, the two gentlemen manched
aWayvtzy >iovingly together^ to purchase new hats, so vi^ifit
was loBB to them. Was/ gain to the hat-makers. ^* It's an iH
wind that blows fiobody good." v.;>
>< Having remained a few days in Phifaulelphia, I xetumed
by the steam^lxMili and;a8, \ j^ no ))usmess to.tiansact m
su
TMMmSiM in
M«w York till the M goods would arrive^ I landed aft
Staten Island^ which I found to be a moat agreeable: flaoe
Qi the aammeik season. The quaiantine gvotteid is hand^i
somely situated, on the east side of the island^ion a 'small
hav^ about a miie> 4ind a half above< the nanoiri. % The
land here- ritea boldty firom the shore, and is\|ierfisd%
healthy.* 'A considerable* piece 4)f ground is cadloSed^ifor
Ae hetdth offioes ; and ^the health officer, and his assistant,
i«side within the enclosure; i< Contiguous to itm officer of
ihe' customs "besides; and in the neighbourhood are a
number of respectable &milies. Mr. Lang, fonnerly men-
tioned, ^dlus femily reside here in the summer season;
There was, upon the whole, a very social^ circle at this
place, cmbdlished l^ a number of handsome young ladies,
and we had many ^^reeable parties. Our sociefy^as often
augmented by. visiters from New York, and strangers ar-
rivingAtthe quarantine ground; sothatthe variei^ of senli«
ment among us, r^gious and> political^ was iniproportion
to dur number&i but it never interfered widi^ur social
hiiiimmy^ > Heligion ahdipolitics aie two of the most, im«
itortan^ conceit of mankind;-— the one embracing tliia
interests now, the other' hereafter; and m proportion vas
pKfpk leel a livelyinlere^in both, they will become the
tqncs of conversation. '^ Out of the abundance of the
heart the mouth speaketh.'? But they are subjects whkh
admit of a great .variety of sentiment^ and onwiducK man-
kind will never: diink alike» Hence it is of importance
ito diey be discussed leppecately, j|p;4;ipth defeoence to
the fedings of each other,^ One ofy^ most important
circumstances in discuss|iig thc^, is to avxnd |iQ personal
abuser mb^ espedaUy qf. public diaracters. Jbapo|^<»]ar
gQvermnent, no roan can be appointed Jo a pobtic station^
mm TOBB.'
989
led at
smaUi
{{The
liataht,
fcccrof
|r men-
seasoni
al diis
as often
gersar-
ifaenti*
sooiid
hn«
ig tlib
tioiivas
iBie the
of the
whkh
man-
witlMiit kivingthe ¥oioc of a majoritf in hia ikvofir, real
or UBpliacL^ To^ call liim names, therefore, and to load
hinvWidi^aU manner of reproaches, ii just to abusejat
aeooad hand^ those who have appointed him, of whom
your political antagonist way be one. It is often sa viewed,'
and anger and strife ensue; and thus, a discussion that,
fmpsaeiy mani^ed, m^ht be conducive to promote know-
ledge and ^nfarmation, becomes often the means of raising
the wUttlwind of fipssii^ and of de$troymg the peace of
r-'i '''^ \; ■■.-^' ■ . ■"., ■■ , :{ '. .■■• ■ ■ ■
:. ',. I »
i*.
f !
■'4
■■Jt.
w
'f<^ ><«:/>/*>
;. r
, .J — ~
39Q
Iff*'-
■■* ■ w^
TRAVBfcS IN
CHAPTER MX.
' MMiiftiMniM)
JVhrt; Torkf — Comnierciat vieUfs.
The expected gobds arrived early in the fall^ atid in
greater quanuty than w'as at first calculated on, and there
was a very good fell trade, so that I was pretty busily em-
ployed in New York, till the month of November, M^hen I
was delighted by the safe arrival of my &mily. I was now
most anxious to settle in New York, in a mercantile! capa*
city, and there seemed to be a consiHerabkr probability ^t
I would be able to accomplish that object. The nc^oci-
ations between America and Britain were continued, and
had been so long protracted, that I was inclined to 'think
all interruptions would be d6ne a^vily. Inde^ the Ame-
rican government had placed her foreign relations on a
footing by which the Engli^ ministry conld get an ascen-
dancy over France on terms so easy, th&t, shflkdn a§ my
confidence in them was, i could not imagine but that they
would embrace :t America had qiened her trade to bcth
hlUgerentSy accompahied by a declaration, that on anyone
of them withdrawing their unjust edicts, so fiir as they in-
terfered with her neutrality, she would immediately enforce
the non-intercourse act agsdnst the other. Both parties had
expressed the utmost good- will to^trards Ameriea, and as-
serted that their edicts were only meant to annoy thfe trade
of each other; alleging that America could not reasonably
complain that it acrrfi/!mfa% interfered with her trade, as she
Mm
Amcfj
than b
1 resisi
time;
erifice
anyoni
«d,as 1
eagerly
tunity c
nation,^
t)f putti
the who
fvts noi
unqihed
Champa
that the
demtea
tease to
being ni
Hiefing]
AeiruiA
adewhic
cd States
tommunu
the Engl
Thisn
ttatkinoi
liai^ingiita
iHitmfor
commeri^
ihd Iti
i there
ily em-
when I
i^now
NEW TOUK. 391
hid hoi wt up the proper resisUnce. It wsilmpmble that
America could aet up a resistance to both^ in any other way
than by withdrawing from the ocean altogether, which was
1 resistance that might be made, and had been made for a
thne; but it could not b^ endured for ever. It was a sa-
crifice without an object; she could in that case have m
itkide. She therefore came to the resolution of resistuig
any one of them, on getting the fineedom of the seas rCttor-
ed,as fiur as it^ had been obstnicted by the other. How
eagerly then would a wise ministry have seized this oppor-
tunity of cultivating the friendship of a great and growing
nation,' whose trade is of such importance to Britain ; and
of putting their deadly enemy in the wrong in the fiice of
the whol^ world ! But the sincerity of the British ministiy
wta now brought to the test, and Bonaparte, as usual, tri-
Biiqihed over them and the nation. The French minister,
Chaitipagnyy intihiated to the American minister at Ihiris,
that dK decrees were withdrawn, in these terms: '*Tfap
derates of Berlin and Milan are revoked, and they will
ccflse Id l)e in force from the 1st of November next, k
being understood that, in consequence of this declaratioh,
the EngNah shattj as they have declared they would, revoke
#ieir ocdert in council, and renounce the principles of block-
ade which tfiey have attempted to establish, or that the Umt-
ed States^ <ro^/^n7Mi6/^ to the act (^ emgress you have jutt
eomtminieatedy ^kiH cause -their rights to be respected by
the English." i .
This Was officially tinnounced by the president's procku
lAatkin <^ the 9d of November; and, no corresponding act
having itaken plads in England, the non-intercourse act was-
piit m force agsdnst that country; and thus agiiin were my
commerce arrangements defeated. m^% ,^ < ^:i^ ^s ni
i^
TBAYELS n
'>•,.
'x**
W
- In themeah time I had kept up an intercoune with my
partner ifi Savannah, and from a aupposition that aome bu-
siress might be done between that port and New York, we
tried the experiment by a small shipment Irom each ; but
they were both unsuccessful, and I was satisfied that while
•the redtrietiona were continued, no beneficial trade could
be carried on, at least by us, between these two portsw In-
deed I was tired of the Savannah trade altogether, and anx-
iously wished for ah opportunity to get entirely clear of it
But matters did not yet appear entirely hopeleaa unth
England. The president stated in his message to congress,
that, '* Tb a communication firom oiir minisler at London
iof the tevocation of the Berlin and Milan decree^ tt was
answered, that the British system woM be relipquUhed as
soon as the repeal of the French decrees shtmklhaveaeHmlhf
taken effect^ and the commerce of neutral nations havfj been
restored to the condition in which it stood prevkmsly to the
promulgation of those decrees* This pledge, althoMli^ it
does nfl^ necess^y import, does hot exclude the intention
0f rdinqui^lmig along with the orders in coiuicil, the prac-
tice of those hovel blockades^ whidi have a liheelfect of
interrupting our foitign commerce. And thisrCbfther jus-
tice to the United States is the rather to. he hekedfir^ in-
asmuch' as the blockade in question, being not move con-
trary to the established law of nations, than inconsistent
in^th the rules of tradc; recognised by GreatBritain herself,
could have tto legal basis, other than the plea^f^f^taMatioB
alleged as the basis 6f the orders in c6unciL'^%;'^t^M
It was stated in a subsequent part of the iRessage^ indeed,
that, '* On the other important Subjects depemfoigibetween
the tJhieed States and that gotvemment, >,no progiess has
been made from which an early and satu^act0fi result
^^y
could i
babilitj
try woi
tern wl
the ^u
millioni
i^gem<
Fc^s, in
In fo
naturally
factuv^s
thejapic
few year
Bytb
in party i
carried o
tp,the su
. .* Wo
>i^uhhoa\
Spei
/v«v.Fiax
'U w^Befi]
, Coai
Snu
"Thef
thegreate
Iron,
Cotb
Hats
Spin
VOL. I
NEW YORK.
393
could be relied on:^* yet I considered there was still a pro-
bability of the trade being opened. I thought the minis-
try would not siuely be so mad, as to persevere in a sys-
tem which went to preclude the valuable manufactures o(
tlic eountry from a market to the extent of ten or twelve
millions sterling annually ; and I went on making my ar-
i^gements to act as an agent for some British manufactu-
rc|rs, in which I had a prospect of excellent connexions. <■,_
; In following up my plan relative to this branch, I was
naturally led to inquire into the state of the internal manu-
factures of>,the country, and I was astonished to observe
the japid progress which they had made in the course of a
few years, and the great extent to which they had risen. ^,^
By the secretary of the treasury's report, which was only
in party it appeared, that *' the following manufactures are
carried on to an extend which maybe considered adequate
tjp^lhe supply of the, United States.
* Wooden articles of every kind.
Leather, and articles of leather.
... Soap, and tallow candles.
. Spermaceti oil and candles. .
, Flaxseed oil. . *
Refinedsugar. .
, Coarse earthen ware. .
Snuff, chocolate, hsur-powder, and mustard.
<< The following branches are firmly established, supplying
the greater part o£ the consumption of the United States.
Iron, and articles of iron.
Cotton, wool, flax, and hemp.
Hats and straw bonnets. .
Piqper> printing types, printed books, playing cards.
I Spirituous ai]id malt liquors.
VOL, I. 3 p
m
'f!vc-h:/r:s^*t'~'i
304
TKAVEU Uf
t
Wax candles.
*^ Progress has been aiade in the foUowmg bnoicheti.
Paints and coburs.
Chemical preparations, and medicind drugs;
Salt. ,.,^
Copper and brass.
Jiqpannod and plated ware.
,l Queen's and other earthen ware.
. ^, <Ha8s ware, &c. &c.
*' Many other articles, on which no information has been
received, are undoubtedly omitted."
%■ The report goes on to state the outlines of the infi^rma-
4ion received 4mi the reflective bram^s, aU of wlitch is
exceedingly important; but I shall only make a few ex-
tracts, relative to some of the nibat prominent articles.
" Cottony Waoly and Flax.
<* The first cotton millmuB erected in the state of Rhodt
Island, in the year 1791, another in the same state, in the
year 1795 ; and two more in the state of Massaohuietts, in
the years 1803 and 1804. During the ifaree auccoeding
years, ten more were erected in Rhode island, and 'Vne in
Connecticut, making altogether 15 tniUs, erected Jbefore
the year 1808, working at that time about €000 :spindles,
and producing about 300,0001bs. of yam a year.
<* Returns have been received of 87 nriUs, wkich iveee
erected at the end of the year 1809; ^ of which (48
water and 14 horse mills) were in operatm, fand worked
at that time 31,000 spindles. The ^aim^S will 'beQll in
operation in the course of Jflhisy«ar,^utd'4)ogedierw|t^ the
former ones (all of which <re wreafting <heir iilichiiiery)»
HBW TOIK.
S^
will, by the estimate received, work more than $0,000 tpin*.
dies at the commencement of the year 1811.
^* The capital required to carry on the manufacture on
the best terms is estimated at the rate of 100 dollars per
spindle ; but it is believed, that no more than at the rate of
60 dollars b generally employed. Each spindle produces
annually about 36 pounds of 3ram from 45 lbs. of cotton ;
and the value of the yam may be averaged as worth 1
dpllar 12| cents per lb. Eight hundred spindles employ
40 persons, viz. 5 men, 35 women and children.
^ ** The increase of carding and spinmng cotton by ma«'
chmery, in establishments for that purpose, exclusively of
that done in private families, has been fiwjold during the
last two years, and tenfold in three years. Thirty-six of
diese mills, working 20,406 spindles, are situated within
30 miles of Providence. The remainder are scattered all
over the country.
'* Hosiery may be considered as almost exclusively a
hbiisehbid manufactiiK. That of Germantown has de<r
clined, and it does not app^ to have been attempted on a
lajrgte 'stale in other places. There are, however, some
exceptions ; and h is stated, that the island of Martha's
Vineyard exports annually 9000 pair of stockings.
' ** But by*^ the greater part of the goods made Of cot-
ton,^ fldx, and wool are manufactured in private families,
mosdy for Adr own use, and partly for sale. They con-
sist principally of coar^ cloth, flannel, cotton stufl^, and
strips of every description, linen, and mixtures of wool
with flax and cotton. The information received from
every state, and from more than 60 different places, con-
curs in esta^shing the fact of an extraordinary increase
clurf% tlie last two years, qni^ in rendering it probable,
396
TRAVlBLS IN
that about two-thirds of the clothing, and house and tabic
linen of the inhabitants of the United States^twho ido not
reside in sea^ports^ is made in this way. f'Tt*.-^ ' " '
•.'l^ In the eastern and middle states, cardmg machines,
tirorked by water, are everywhere established, and they
are rapidly extending southwardly and westwardly. Jen-
nies, other family spinmng machines, and flying shuttles,
are also introduced in many places ; and as many fulling
mills are erected as are required for finishii^ all the cloth
iliat is woye in private &milies.> '^^*
' ** The value of the goods made of cotton, wool, and
flax, which are annually manufactured in the United States,
is qalculated to exceed 40,000,000 dollars. #| ( i i *
fi>** The manufacture of cards and wire is intimately con>
nected with this part of the subject. - Whitemore*s ma-
chine for making cards has completely excluded foreign
importations of that article, but the wire is altogether im-
ported. It appears, however, that the manufacture of it
may and would be immediately established, so as to sup-
ply the demmid both for cards and other objects^ provided
the same duty was imposed on wire (now imported duty
free) which is laid on other articles of the same material*
j^
'«
" Earthen and Glass-ivare.
? " A suflicient quantity of the coarser species of pottery
is made everywhere ; and information has been received
of four manuiactories of a finer kind lately establi^ed.
One at Philadelphia, with a capital of 11,000 dollars, ma-
nufactures a species similar to that made ih Staflbrdshircj
in En^nd; Joid the others hi Chester county, in Pom-
MEW YORK.
397
id table
vdo not
achines,
nd they
J, Jen-
shuttles,
\f fuUmg
:he cloth
ool, and
d States,
' ^ :" '
tdycon-
«e's ma-
l foreign
pther im-
Lire of it
i to sup-
provided
ted duty
laterial,
.J ■. V*....
pottery
I received
iblis^ed.
rs, ma^
jrdshirci
Penn-
sylvania, inNew Jersey, and oa the Ohio, make various
kinds of queens-ware. ««>
^* Information has been obtained of XO glass manufac^
tories, which employ about 140 glass-blowers, and make
annually 27,000 boxes of window glass, containing each
100 square feet of glass. Some of these manufactories
make also green bottles and other wares ; and two works,
employing together 6 glass-blowers, have been lately
erected at Pittsburg, and make decanters, tumblers, and
every other description of flint glass of a superior quality.
** It[ is inferred^ that the annual product ofihe American
inant{factures exceeds 120,000,000 doUars : and it is not
improbable that the ^raw material ttsed^ and the provisions
and other articles consumed by the manufacturers^ creates
a home market Jbr agricultural products not very iriferior
to that which arises Jrom foreign demand. t. • * '^ '?'
" The most prominent of the causes which have hitherto
impeded the progress of manufactures have been the abun-
dance of land, compared with the population, the high
price of labour, and the want of capital. The superior
attractions of agricultural pursuits, the great extension of
American commerce, during the late European wars, and
the continuance of habits after the causes which produced
them have ceased to exist, may also be enumerated* Se-
veral of these obstacles have, however, been removed or
lessened. The cheapness of provisions had always, to a
certain extent, counterbalanced the high price of manual
labour; and this is now, in many important branches,
nearly superseded by the introduction of machinery. A
great American capital has been acquired during the last
twenty years ; and the injurious violation qf the neutral
commerce of the United States, by forcing industry and
r*"
S9a
capital into other thafmelsy have broken i^^te^kte k^tSi
and given a general impulse, to which rnksf be oseHked the
great enerease of manufaeturea during the ftto last f/eahy
It would be tedious to ienumerate ^ twentieth pait of
the information^ which came under my observation In cor-
Tobontion of this report; I shaH, therefore, only iconde.
scend upon ond single circumstance, which Shows at one
glatice die |;reat progress of mahufectures, and how lltde
the subject may be known by those who live in the sea>
ports, lb the coun^ of New York, comprehending the
whole island, there were; in 1810, ohly f/^eeioomr; the
mimfoer in the state was d3,068 ; and^ general Bumnto*
ry of die mamifinrtures, in the state, was us follows : "
. ^ . . \ V— ,•■ -> - ■ Value.
rXiOoms 33,068 yards diMh 9,099>ir03 5,002,891
f Tan works
mt
leather
1,299,542
^■fy Oistflleriea
mi
^irits
l,68a>,794
snewcnes
42
beer
340,765
^ Fulling mills
427 enhanced ^alue of cloth
«7^126
% 1^90^ mills
26
paper ^
2133,268
1 Hat factories
124
hats
249,035
iGlate works
6
glass (besides bOU^)
716,800
*-FowttortiMlls
2
powder
10,040
Hope walks
18
ropes
538,000
^ Sugar houses
10
sugar
420,706
le OUmiUs
28
oil
4^,283
f%st furnaces
11
iix)iiware^
205,300
Air furnaces
10
do.
156,720
Cut-nail &ctories 44
nail^
276,932
Foi^[es
48
iron
185^240
Trip hammers
49
do.
40,000
I Rolling and slit,
ting mills
?'
do.
33,12.0
urn of
in ccit-
06tide-
at one
«)rl|ttle
hesed-
ing the
ur; "the
•
Value.
)02,891
^99,542
>85,794
140,765
^3,268
149,035
W,«00
10,04^
;38,000
.20,706
4^,283
5,300
56,720
!76,932
85j240
40,000
1 33,120
^kW YORK. 3^
Carding machines 413 (value in cloth stated above)
. Cotton factories 26 (value not ascertained)
Woollen Victories (ditto) , ^^^-s^
Salt 525,000 bushels 147,000
Silk 2,240 skeins
Articles m State Prison 60,000
The whole manu&ctures may be estimated sibove 17
millions of dollars, exclusive of flour, ashes, nuqple sugar,
cyder, &c.
The aggregate of the manufectures of Pennsylvania, I
found to exceed 28 millions of dollars ; and they appear-
ed everywhere to be approaching nearly to a supply of the
internal demand, while those of Rhode Island exceeded it,
and a£forded a great surplus for exportation.
From these and several other circumstances which camp
under my review, I was led to believe that the trade to
Britain, on which I had fixed my dependence, would be
now so much curtsdled, that it would be precarious : but
I had been long in it ; my habits were formed to it ; and
I was unwilling to relinquish it, while there was a ray of
hope l^*
At last that ray of hope was dissipated. The prince of
Wales was appointed regent ; but no new ministry was
formed, nor any measure adopted to restore harmony be-
tween the two countries :— " / therefore calculated that im
temal manufactures a:id commerce would, in all probability^
be substituted for foreign commerce,^^ and I resolved ta
shape my course accordingly^
i
-•■•X.\i»i» -f^
m
i-S
..'; ,i-
^iiU
S ft \ytt ' ,B -■.» aW ^K J
''v
n.,,,.
:-ilii^'lx:
:n« fv;
V^'*,T,>i<^X.
■*f *'\441|
.»:;4:%,'
Uv' ,
#
APPENDIX.
VOL* I.
3 B
^'i-J:^-^'
r,-^&;"v' .-.M '.
■/4
#*^t "s#»»-'
•'. ■« . , .».
.,fiy^+i'!>n:#s ii.%;^^. ^*
'I'm; ^;\>*
^...i^.^^y, ,,j,S|
•' rtf <l5^i /
.> if^rm
= A 4;l:A{:
Of the G
in plat
Ue<m
•i.4'?'/.'^."^,.,; .: ■
A
S " '
f<?vcr4 ]
PQm4.
What
'
point to 1;
: .
pQ9f^^ Qonq
l:^i^iW-1^Uu \
The y<
mercantU
■■•■■ .'^> fWU:!-
leoting th
aoditrag
•
in^0,%l
' ' ■ ^
TheappfSi
beiogtliQts
. *,,. ^ ^>,i'«^t' J- ,i,2i;•
the Mief,
here arc t^
of the gr<
muddy an
■. I ' , !
cooditionM
■ .4. -.7
quentlj su
. . !
the other <
APPENDIX.
No. I.
Of the CfOfse of the Xelkfw Fever i and the inems qf prewnting it
inphees not yet injected with it: addrefised' to the Board rf
UeoUk in America* Bff' THoa<A9 Pain£«
' ■ '
A GREAT de«l has been written reapccttog the yeUow
£^ver« Firsts with r^spcict to its cauAes^ whether domeai^c or im-
ported* Secondly, on the mode of treating^ it*
What I am going to suggest in this essay is, to ascertain some
point to begin at, in order to arrive at the cause, and^ for this pur*^
post^f some preliminary observations are necessary.
The yeUowr fever always begins in the lowest part of a po|)ttk>uis
mercantile town, near th^ water, and continues ^re, without af-
fecting the higher partr. The sphere, or circuit it acts in, is ^nu^,
and it i!ages most where large quantities of new ground have, been
TO^iSi^t by banking out the river, for the purpose oi making n^rvieft.
The appeamnoe and prevalence of the yellow fever in these places,
being those where vessels arrive from the West Indies^ has caused
the bdlef, that the yellow fever was imported from thence. Bi^i^
here are two cases acting in the same place : the one, the con^tkui
of the ground at the wharves^ which, being new made on the
muddy and filthy bottom of the river, is differentfrom the natural
conditionof the ground in the higher parts of the city, and conse*
quently subject to produce a diiferent kind of effluvia or vapour $
the other case is the arrival of vessels from the West Indies*
404
appkItdix, no. I.
Inthestateof Jersey, neither of these cases has taken place;
no shipping arrive there, and consequently there has been no em-
bankment for the purpose of wharves, and the yellow fever has
never broke out in Jersey. This, however, does not decide the
point, as to the immediate cause of the fever ; but it shows that
this species of fever is not common to the country in its natural
state ; and I believe the same was the case in the West Indies,
before embankments began, for the purpose of making wharves,
which always alter the natural condition of the ground* No old
history, that I know of, mentions such a disorder as the yellow
fever.
A person seized with the yellow fever in an affected part of the
town, and brought into the healthy part, or into the country and
among healthy persons, does not communicate it to die neighbour-
hood, or to those immediately around him. Why, then, are we
to suppose it can be brcxight from the West Indies, a distance of
more than a thousand miles, since we see it camiot be carried from
one town to another, nor from one part of a town to another^ at
home ? Is it in the air? This question on the case requires a mi-
nute examination. In the first place, the difference between air and
wind is the same as between a stream of water, and astanding water.
A stream of water is water in motion, and wind is air in motion.
In a gaide breeze, the whole body of air, as far as die breeze ex-
tendsy moves at the rate of seven or eight miles aH hour; in a high
wind, at the rate of seventy, eighty, or a hundred miles an hour.
When we see the shadow of a cloud gliding on the surface of the
ground, we see die rate at which the air moves, and it must be a
good trotting horse that can keep pace with the sh-^doWf even in a
gentle breeze ; consequenUy, a body of air that is in and over any
place of the same extent as the affected part of a city may be, will,
in the space of an hour, even at the moderate rate I speak of, be
moved seven or eight miles to leeward, and its place, in and
over the city, will be supplied by a new body of air coming from
a healthy part seven or eight miles distant the contrary way, and
then on in continual succession. The disorder, therefore, b not
ESSAY ON YELLOW VZVER.
405
in the air considered in its natural state, and never stationary.*—
This leads to another consideration of the caae. '
An impure effluvia, arising from some cause in the ground, in
the mapiier that fermenting liquors produce an effluvia near its
surfacf^ that is fatal to life, will become mixed with the air conti-
guous to it, and as fast as that body of air moves off, it will im-
pregnate every succeeding body of air, however pure it may be
when it arrives at the place.
The result from this state of the case is, that the impure air, or
vapour, that generates the yellow fever issues from the earth, that
is, from the new made earth, or ground raised on the muddy and
filthy bottom of the river, and which impregnates every fresh body
of air that comes over the place, in like manner as air becomes
heated when it approaches or passes over the fire, or becomes of-
fensive in smell when it approaches or passes over a body of cor-
rupt vegetable or animal matter in a state of putrefaction.
The muddy bottom of rivers contains great quantitiesof impure,
and often inflammable air (carburetted hydrogen gas), injurious
to li£e ; and which remains entangled in the mud till let loose from
thence by some accident. This air is produced by the dissolution
^ \d decomposition of any combustible matter falling into the wa-
ter, and sinking into the mud, of which the foUowing.circumstance
will serve to give some explanation.
In the fall of the year that New Yoric was evacuated (1783),
general Washington had his head-quarters at Mrs, Berrian's, at
ROcky-Hill, in Jersey,, and I was there. The congress then sat
at Princeton. We had several times been told, that the river or
creek that runs near the bottom of Rocky-Hill, and over which
there is a mill, might be set on fire, for that was the term the coun-
try people used, and as general Washington had a mind to try the
experiment, general Lincoln, who was also there, undertook to
make preparation for it against the next evenitig, November 5th.
This was to be donev as we were told, by disturbing the mud at
the bottom of the river, and holding somediing in a blaze, as paper
or straw, a little above the surface of the water.
Wi
406
A^lMDIX, NO. 1.
Colonels Humphries and Cob were ot that time aid-de-campa
of general Washingtoni and those two gentlemen and myself got
into an argument respecting the cause. Their opinion waSf tlMit,
on disturbing the bottom of the river, some bituminous matter
arose to the surface, which took fire whetl thettght was put to it.
I, on the contrary, supposed that a quantity of inflammable air
was let loose, which ascended through the water, and took fire
above the surface. Each party held to his opinion, and the next
evening the eiq)erimenit was to be made.
A scow had been stationed in the mill-damt and general Wash-
ington^ genera) Lincoln, and myself, and I believe cohmel Cob
(for colonel Humphries was sick), and three or fbur soldiers witb
poles, were put on board the scow. General Washington placod
himself at one end of the scow, and 1 at the other. Each of ua
had a roll of cartridge paper, which we lighted! and held over the
water, about two or three inches from the sur&cei, when the aoli
diers began disturbing the bottom of the river with the poles.
As general Washington sat at one end of the scow, and I at the
other, I could see better any thing that might happen from hia
light, than I could from my own, over which I was nearly perpen*
dicular. When the mud at the bottom was disturbed by the
poles, the air-bubbles rose fast, and I saw the fire take fironi gene-
ral Washington's light, and descend from thence to die surface of
the water, in a similar manner as when a lighted candle is.held^so
as to touch the smoke of a candle just blown out, the smoke will
take fire, and the fire will descend and light up the candle* Tkik
was demonstrative evidence, that what was called setting the i^ver
on fire, was setting the inflammable air on fire that arose out of
the mud.
I mentioned this experiment to Mr* Rittenhouse, of Philadel-
phia, the next time I went to that ci^, and our opinion on the case
was, that the air or vapour that issued from any combustible mat-
ter (vegetable or otherwise) that underwent a dissolution and de*
composition of ita parts^ either by fire or water in a confinedplacey
I-
ESSAY OM T&LLOW tiVERi
407
so as not to blaze, would be indaminable) and would become flame
whenever it came in contact with flame.
In order to determine if this was the case^ we filled up the
breach of a gun barrel about five or six niches with saw-^st, and
the upf>er part with dry sand to the top, and, aftet spiking up the
touchobole, put the breach into a smith's furnace, and kept it red
hot^ so as to consume the saw-dust ; the sand, of eonsequenoe*
would prevem any blaze. We applied a lighted candle to the
mouth of the barrel ; a^ the first vapour that flew off would be hu-
mid, it extinguished the candle ; but, after applsring the caxnlle
three or four times, die vapour that issued out begm to flash. We
then tied « bladder over the mouth of the barrel, which the Vapour
aoon filled, and then, tying a string round the neck of the bladder,
above the muzzle, took the bladder off.
As we could not conveniently make experiments upon the va-
pour while it was in the bladder, the next o|»eration was, to get it
into a phial; for this purpose, w^ to<^ a phial of about three or
lour Ounces, filled it with water, put a cork slightly into it, attd,
introducing it into the neck of the bladder, worked the cork out,
by getting hold of it through the bladder, into which the water ,
then emptied itsdf, and the air m the bladder ascended into the
phial; we then put the cork into the phial, and took it from the
bladder. It was now in a convenient condition for experiment.
We put a lighted match into the phial, and the air or vapour in
it blazed op in the manner of a chimney on fire. We extinguished
it two or three times, by stopping the mouth of the phial ; and put-
ting the lighted match to it again, it repeatedly took fire^ till the
vapour was spent, and the phial became fiUed with atmospheric
air.
These two experiments^ that, in which some combustible sub-
stance (branches and leaves of trees) had been decomposed by
water, in the mud ; and this, where the decomposition had been
produced by fire, without blazing, show, that a species of air in-
jurious to life, when taken into the lungs, may be generated from
substOinces which in themselves are harmless.
408
ArPKNOlXi NOi I.
It is by meant ftimilar to these, that charcoal, which is made by
fire without blazing, emits a vapour destructive to life. I now
coihe to apply these cases, and the reasoning deduced therefrom,
to account for the cause of the yellow fever*.
First:— >The yellow fever is not a disorder produced by the cli-
mate naturally, or it would always have been here in the hot
months. The climate is the same now as it was fifty or a hundred
years ago. There was no yellow lever then, and it is only within
the last twelve years, that such a disorder has been known in
America^
Secondly : — ^The low grounds on the shores of the rivers, at the
cities, where the yellow fever is annually generated, and continues
aoout 3 months without spreading, were not subject to that disorder
i a. their natural state, or the Indians would have forsaken them ;
whereas, they were the parts most frequented by the Indians in all
seasons of the year, on account of fishing. The result from these
cases is, that the yellow fever is produced by some new circum-
stance not common to the country in its natural state, and the
question is, what is that new circumstance i
• It may be said, that every thing done by the white people, since
their setdement in the country, such as building towns, clearing
lands, levelling hills, and filling up valleys, is a new circumstance ;
but the yellow fever does not accompany any of these new circum-
stances. No alteration made on the dry land produces the yellow
fever: we must, therefore, look to some otlier new circumstances ;
and we come now to those that have taken place between wet and
dry, between land and water.
. The shores of the rivers at New York, and also at Philadelphia,
have, on account of the vast increase of commerce, and for the
sake ( i making wharves, undergone great and rapid alterations
from their natural state, within a few years'; and it is only in such
'* The author does not mean to infer* that the inflammable air, or carburet-
ted hydro^n gas, is the cause of the yellow fever ; but that perhaps it enters
into some combination with miasm generated in low grounds, which product
the disease.
partio
die yell
alteratu
which c
die yell
Besi(
ment,t)
war, am
the cons
Qr comb
contiguc
exposed
the tide.
earth, an
and in tli
Havia
the cause
pearance.
gotoshq
yet to be
der's Hot
theyelloi
moving i(
embankir
mud bott
wharves
under the
will be wj
without V
When
is, withov
turned, b
buttment£
there can
on stone [
VOL. I.
E8IAY ON YELLOW riVER.
400
parts of the shores, where those alterations have taken place, tha^
the yellow fever has been produced. The parts where little or no
alteration has been made, either on the East or North River, and
which continue in their natural state, or nearly so, do not produce
the yellow fever. The fact, therefore, points to the cause.
Besides several new streets gained from the river by embank-
ment, there are upwards of eighty new wharves made since the
war, and the much greater part within the last ten or twelve years:
the consequence of which has been, that great quantities of filth,
or combustible matter, deposited in the muddy bottom of the river
contiguous to the shore, and which produced no ill effect while
exposed to the air, and washed twice every twenty-four houri by
the tide, water, have been covered over several feet deep with new
earth, and pent up, and the tide excluded. It is in these places,
and in these only, that the yellow fever is produced.
Having thus shown, from die circumstances of the case, that
the cause of the yellow fever is in the place where it makes its ap-
pearance, or rather in the pernicious vapour issuing therefrom, I
go to show a method of constructing wharves, where wharves are
yet to be constructed, as on the shore of the East River, at Corl-
der*s Hook, and also on the North River, that will not occasion
the yellow fever, and which may also point out a method of re-
moving it from places already infected with it. Instead, then, of
embanking out the river, and raising solid wharves of earth on the
mud bottom of the shore, the better method wolld be to construct
wharves on arches, built of stone. The tide will then flow in
under , the arch, by which means the shore and the muddy bottom
will be washed and kept clean, as if they were in their natural state ,
without wharves.
When wharves are constructed on the shore lengthways, that
is, without cutting the shore up into slips, arches can easily be
turned, because arches joining each other lengthways, serve as
buttments to each other; but when the shore is cut up into slips,
there can be no buttments. In this case, wharves can be formed
on stone pillars, or wooden piles planked over on the top. In either
VOL. I. 3 r '
416
ArriMDix* MO. 1.
I*
^thece eMeSy thfc ttmoe underneath wiU be a'commodioui eheker
or harbour for imfdl boats, which can go in and come out always,
except at low water, and be secure from storms and tnjunes. This
method, besides preventing the cause of the ycUow fever, which
J think it will, will render the wharves n»or« productive than the
present method, because of the space preserved within the wharf.
I offer no calculation of the expence of constructing wharves on
arches or piltis ; but, on a general view, I believe they will not be
so cxpeasiwiii|li the present method. A very -great part of the
6xpenc»4B|MiMking solid wharves of earth is occasioned by the
carriagtt'of materials, Miich will be greatly reduced by the me-
thoSil here proposed, and still more so, were the arches to be con-
structed of oast iron blocks. I suppose that one ton of cast iron
blocks would go as iiir in. the construction of an arch as twenty
tons of stone.
'¥, If, by constructing wharves in such manner ^at the tide wa-
ter can wash the shore and bottom of Uie river contiguous to the
ahore, ns they are washed in their naturdl condition, the yellow
fcihit can be prevented from generating in j^es where wharves
are yet to be eonstrueted, it may point out a method of removing
it, at least by degrees, from places already infected widi it, which
will be, by opening the wharves in two or three places in each, and
letting the tide water pass through. The parts opened can be
planked over, so as not to prevent th't use of the whaif.
in taking up m6 treating this subject, I have considered it as
belonging to natural philosophy, rather than medicinal art; and
titerefore I say nothing about the treatment of die disease after it
takes {)latek I leave that part to those whose profession it is te
gtudyit.
■.•«j;i|**»,:-s(F«i<ii^ ,«;,
4k**V- ■
HI •.*5f
LETTER TO A XBUBIE OF rAAtXAMGNT.
4U
shelter
rtways,
I. Thw
, which
:haDthe
s wharf,
urvetott
U not be
t of the
i by the
the me-
obecoa-
cast iron
a twenty
tide wa-
lls to the
ic yeHow
& whaives
removmg
k, which
each, and
can be
*'^- ■,<)>«»
. ■ . ,A-
Letter to a Member of Parliament oh the Ordete in CotmeUy em^
the American Trade. ^f»
IN the present eventfid period of our history^ when a war «d*
ministration seems determined, by every act of aggression and
CoHy, to drire diek- ooimtry to ^e utmost extremity of distress, I-
consider it tiie duly of every man who loves his oountr)% to contrl*
hoteiusjtttmoatetfbrts lo save the state* I think I cannot faStter
usensine than by a communication to you, selecting for my si4>-
jeotthe teUtions (between ^s country and America. I prefer
maldng this oommunication to a public character, because he haa
die power of making the best use of die facts communicated. I
prefer nudting it«o you, ibocause you appear to me to stand on in*
dependent grooad ; i prefer >the subject of our relations with Ame*
nca, because I conceive it to be of the greatest national importance,
andbutimUfFerenttyundovstood; and because, having recently been
in that ■ c o u ntry , I consider mys^ pretty w«ll acquainted with it.
You«re,<if course, ^uiiciciidy aware of the great importance
of the trade between the two <countries. The supply of neariy six
mittions of people with manufactures of every description must
' be an object of great consequeno&to a manufactwing country, and
it is peculiarly beneficial to this country, from the facility with
whidi it can be carried on. The inhabitants of America speak
the siMne language as ourselves; they have the same manners and
habits; they are in some measure governed by the same laws;
and the articles they have to give in <e«change are exactly such as
we want.
Now, sir, it is-m^* opinion, that this commerce <:an not only be
carried on, but even increased to a much greater extent, unless it be
interrupted by our own folly. I ^pcak vrith confidence, from what
Iknow of the people and government of -the XInited States, that
iHt APPENDIX, NO. II.
they are so much disposed to peace, and a cultivation of their
trade, that nothing but the most imperious necessity will force
them to relinquish their commerce with this country, far less to
enter into a sute of hostility ; but I am afraid that some of our
late acts will drive them to the former of these cruel alternatives,
and there is no saying how soon the present ministry may drive
them to the latter also. « wsf*
It would appear, however, that the ministry act upon no hbstile
t'^sign towards America ; but it is sufficiently obvious, that they
have formed a very mistaken idea of the American character; and
it is no favourable omen, that their hireling writers dwell with pe-
t'tulrar pleasure ilpon every topic calculated to give an unfavourable
opinion of that country, towards which they have in many instan-
ces used the language of insult. They are supported, too,' by a
writer, who, by a knack at making bold assertions, and of support-
ing them by low, bullying language, has acquired a very conside-
rsdble degree of celebrity in this country, who, though a man whose
mowed tenets of political faith hold him up to pdblic detestation,
sind whose rancour against America, the cause of which is well
known, subjects every thing he has to say upon that country to at
least a considerable degree of suspicion ; yet, having resided there,
he certainly is looked up to for information. The boldness of his
assertions makes them pass current with many, and it is probable
his opinions have a wide spread in the country; for I have dften
heard very stranfb and Inconsistent doctrines held by Very well-
informed people, and him quoted as the authority*.
Now, in opposition to all that such writers have said, or can
aay, against the people and government of the United States, I
can affirm, from actual observation, that they possess a superiority
over every other people and government in many pTirticulars ; and
because a review of some of them is necessary to illustrate my
subject, I shall, as briefly as possible, notice a few of the most im-
|K>rtant.
* The writer alluded to has since abjured his error, and has made ample
reparatioh to the ctiuse of truth and justice.
LETTER TO A MEMBER OT PARLIAMENT.
412
Ist. The laws place all the citizens on a footing of
PERFECT EQUALITY. There are no laws of entail, or of primogeni-
ture, to divide the people ; and hence the mass of them are hardy,
ind^ndent republicans, cultivators of the soil they possess. Few
zrdfko rich as to be above the necessity of labour,^ and few are so
poo^ as to be in a state of dependence ; fewer still live on charity.
I resided in the country twelve months, and travelled through
twelve of the states, comprehending a range of 1300 miles, and
in all that time I never saw a beggar but once ; he was from this
country, and it turned out, in the sequel, that he was an impostor,
and not really in want.
2d. Public education is cherished by the people and
GOVERNMENT. It willno doubt ^ve you pleasure, that I dwell on
this ardde. It is necessary, for the illustration of the subject, to
notice the subdivision of the country. Eachstate is divided into
counties, and many of these are subdivided into townships of six
miles square, being a division somewhat similar to our parishes.
^ the charters of incorporation of these townships, provision is
gemerally made for the instruction of youth, by appropriations of
land and other funds, and the schools are mostly all free. Besides
this, there are numerous colleges, academies, and public libraries,
supported piutly by the states, and partly by individuab; and
these seminaries are rapidly increasing. I shall further illustrate
the subject by taking the states in their order.
[Here followed an account of the state of education throughout
the country; but as this has been inserted in the foregoing work,
it is here omitted.]
I have dwelt long upon this subject, because I judge it of great
importance, and because it is very generally believed, that, in
point of education, the Americans are far behind the British.
The case is quite the reverse,— they are far before them,— I
mean the mass of the people. I did not meet with a single native
American, above 12 years of age, who could not both read and
write, and they are in general a very intelligent people. With po-
litics they are well acquainted, and there are more newspapers read
-^
«1«
*t/APMMl>IX, SO. XI.
)f'f-tK<
In Ameridl, in |ropoitiaii lo the inluibitaa.ti) thm la imf comtry
in die world*
i tkdi confirnitkis staHeineiitiyjr m eaetract itom. Mtrt/^^ Jme-
rkan Ctography, aiticfe Nem England. ^^ In Htm EngJimil,
leflOttiii^ IB more genersdtyvlifined among aiU Tanks ihan bi^My
oidier part of the globe ; ariuaig from tthe excdlent estaUialiiteBt
of Bdiook in itoioet eveiy t0(in»lu(i and tither smaller diatncta.
In these vchoob, ^ich are gonerdfy supported by a pubHc tax,
and tmder tWe ^irectkm o(« achool comanttee, aix taagfat !die cle-
ments e^ reading, wmkig, «!»! anihmetic^ iand in the aaone weal-
thy townships, they are beginning to introdiioe the higher branidi-
«)8, v'it. grammar, geography^ &]c. A very iraluable source iftf infor-
tiontoihe people, isthe newspapex9,iof which not lesB'dian;ao^OOO
are pnnted^very week in NewiEbigland,;aiad.th)eyjcircidaMe4n;ai-
montwvtry town wad village in «he oonmry.^ in aorate he add»—
*^ Acoor(Kiig>to ^n ace vrate 'estimate made 10 ^years ago, it appeatrs
tliat no less than T^OOO newspapers wene rprinted weekly in !lhe
Ameiiuaii states, whkh in a year nnmild amounts 4«»mons>'*
•i-A^Tfaeneis^rood reason itobdliesreithatihB number.luB«in£etieBr-
ly dddbled. He goes on-^** A person of {mabiire lage who icannot
both read and wi«ite is rarely iko <be ^^CHind. By meuisor d&e >ge-
sieraleStadilishBtient'Of SK;hools,7the^extensive eiroulakion of news-
papers, and the itonsequent ^pmad of learning, eveiy 'township
throughout the country 4s foniished widi men capaUe c^ conduct-
ing the affairs of their town with jndgment and discretion. These
men are the channels of political informauon to die lower class of
the people; if such a class may be said to exist in Mew Er^landi
where every man^hinks himself as gwd^s his neighbouryondbe'
tieveathat all mankind ouoHT to posaem eqjjal aights.'^
3d. In KELIGEOtrs matters THEftEia NBITMER TOLERATION
lf04l IWKOtERATION, BUT UKIVfiftSv/^L AIGHT OF CONSCIENCE.
The constitution of the United States provides eqiMUyrt^fOfm^
fimmngHmy religious establishment, and against any interference
with ihefree exercise of religion, ** Religion is d^re ^ced on
its proper basis, without the unwarrantable aid of the civil power,
LETTER TO A IIBKBIE 01 tARLlAMENT.
4U
^PfMirted alone by its own evidence, by the lives of its professors,
and by the almighty care of its divine Author ;'* and every man
may freely exercbe his religious opinions, be they what they may,
without at all interfering with his rights as a citizen.
4th. The oovernment of the country is in tbe hands
or THE people.— America b what is called a Federal Republic*
£ach state has a legislative and executive government to manage
its internal concerns ; and all the states, joined together for mutual
convenience and security, form the general or federal government*
It consists of the house of representatives, senate, And the presi-
dent,-*-elected by the people,— <md to them certain powers are
delegated by the several states; among others the formation and
regulation of all foreign relations. The federal revenue consists gt
present principally of a tax on imports* -t.
From hence it will obviously £4>pear,that the United States pos-
sess a firm government. The good education of the people ena-
bles them to form a correct opinion of their rights, and their fre-
quent elections afford them the necessary opportunity to assert
tfaem.*-<-There is no privileged aristocracy to corrupt them, and
there are no hireling priests to mr^^^ead them. The government
and the pe(^ile can have no separate interest. Peace is the interest
of the country, and the government will never declare waruidess
they have good grounds for it. Ait all events, any war undertaken
by the United States must be sanctioned by the people, and in my
opmign they veason very widely who suppose the government will
rush blindly into a war without such sanction. Indeed I think I
may venture to predict, that while the present form of government
remains, no war will ever be undertaken by the United States
but in self-defence ; and if that should become necessary, it will be
strong, vigorous, and efficient
They are, however, differently represented here. We general-
ly sum up the wbole of the executive government in the person of
Mr. Jeffer8on,a])d because he is not sufficiently subservient to our
views, he muwt forsooth be under the influence of Bonaparte. It
is really astonishing, by the way, to observe the amazing power
151
416
:^:*rr»r,u
APPENDIX, NO. U,
which many of our politicians ascribe to this nian. They talk
and reason at if no circumstance could happen on the face of the
earth, in the least contrary to the designs of the power» that be in
this country, but he roust be the instigator. I can assure them,
however, that Mr. Jefferson,^ and those who act along with him,
are no more under the influence of Bonaparte than I am. Their
maxim is to cultivate^ a good understanding ivith all
THE NATIONS OF TH^ EARTH ; TO QUARREL AND TO ALLY WITH
NONE. »
- But they will only cultivate a good understanding with other
powers upon a footing of perfect equality. If they are inclined to
do as they would be done by, they have a right to expect the same
treatment in return. This is all that honest men can wish for;
but I am afraid that our present ministry are not inclined to re-
cognize this simple but substantial basis.
The disputes between America and this country have been of
long standing; but the ground of quarrel was much enlarged, in
consequence of certain spoliations on the American trade in 1805.
It would be tedious to notice all the grounds of complaint ; I
shall therefore select one instance, singular in its nature, and ex-
tremely offensive in its operation. In the year alluded to, seve-
ral of our ships of war were stationed in the mouth of the Mis-
sissippi, to intercept the Spanish vessels in the navigation of that
river, to the great annoyance of the trade of New Orleans ; while
these very ships of war had special orders to aliow Spanish vessels
to pass and repass freely to and from our own West India islands.
This, among other circumstances, led to the non-importation act,
A short time after, a naval force was stationed off the entrance to
New York harbour, and intercepted every thing that came in their
way. But their conduct was peculiarly offensive in firing upon
coasting vessels ; and at lengfth the death of Pierce, who was
killed by a shot from the Leander, lighted up a flame throughout
the whole continent. This wanton act of aggression has been
palliated and frittered away by writers on this side the water;
but, having examined into all the circumstances of the case, I
LETTER TO A MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT.
417
have no hesitation in saying, that had a similar circumstance oc-
curred to one of our vessels, upon our own shores, ample repara-
tion must have been made, or war would have been the inevitaUe
consequence.
Fortunately, Mr. Pitt was by this time off the stage, and the
Americans had a rational and pacific administration to deal with}
who, I have no doubt, would have healed the breach long before
this time, had they remained in power. I know to a certainty
that the American government had confidence in them ; for, in a
conversation which I had with tlie president, in October, 1806,
he expressed himself to that effect ; and he observed, in particu-
lar, that Mr. Fox tmu a man of the moat liberal and enlightened
polictf^t a friend to his country ^ and to the human race.
But, in an evil hour for Britain, and for the world, the present
ministry got into power by avowedly trampling upon the religious
rights of man. They are said to be energetic^ and they have cer-
tainly " exerted tl^eir energies*' with a vengeance. They have
quarrelled with nearly all Europe, and, not content with that,
they seeim fully determined, by the folly of their measures, to
force America into a quarrel also. I pass over the foul act on
the Chesapeak, because it appears to have been unauthorized, and
might, taken singly, have been easily adjusted. But the late
orders in council appear to me to be the most impolitic mea-
sure that ever this or any other government adopted towards a
neutral and friendly power. America cannot possibly act upon
the principle which these orders recognize, without surrendering
her independence as a nation, and violating her neutrality ; in
which case, it is very obvious she would immediately have a quar-
rel, with France and her dependencies, and that she will take care
to avoid. Indeed, I have little doubt but one great reason for
passing those hateful orders was to bring the question to that very
issue— 4o force America into a war with France. ^
Still, however, I do not dread an immediate war with America,
The ministry, impolitic as I esteem them, do not appear to have
formed any hostile design against that country; but much evi|
VOL. I.
3C
418
APPENDIX, HO. II.
may result from their domineering, bullying spirit, before matters
are adjusted; and, as they apj)ear to be totally ignorant of the
American character, there is no saying how far they may carry
their ** vigorous measures*' if the Americans stand firm ; and this
they assuredly will. From what I know of the American cha-
racter, I am confident they never will submit to the restrictions
fv« have been imposing upon their trade for years j and, in parti*
culart they never will submit to these orders in council. What !
allow their Ships to be forced into this country ; searched, taxed,
and UceiKed, before they proceed to France or her dependencies!
They are truly bdd politicians who have dared to suppose Uiey
Would. It has been alleged, that the French government have
forced us to adopt these measures by their blockading decrees ;
but tliose who make the allegation completely overlook the policy
of France towards America; for no sooner were these blockad-
\tkj^ de«i«es issued) than the French government avowed, in the
most distinct terms, that they had no reference whatever to the
triadebettoeeti America and Britain s and that the existing treaty
between Fnmoe and America should have full effect. They not
only continued to act upon this principle up to the date of our
orders in council, but they gave wders to Spain to release certain
Amertcan vessels which were carried into that country in virtue
of similar decrees^ alleging that the Spanish government had
misconceived their meaning. If further proof be wanted, it is
only necessary to look at the rate of insurance on American and
British vessels for twelve months back.
But whatever the French government intetided to do before^ it
is very certain they will resort to most " vigorous measures" now ;
for they have already passed decrees, not only to set aside the
effect of our orders in council, but they proceed a step farthi^, and
declare, that if American vessels even suffer themselves to be
searched by our ships of ^ar, a measure which they cannot help,
they will be de tationaiizedy and liable to confiscation : so that, bc«
tween the two contending nations, the American trade is brought
into a more awkward situation than has ever been endiiried by cmy
neutral
and th
sequen
have y,
would I
submit
forbids
them?
commoc
probab](
trade wi
posture
senses.
it will ni
I attribu
country!
years pas
repose, n
will dote
belief, th
cerely ho
move the
uprightnc
yanua
P.S.
has been
An emba
disaatroui
some of (
reducing"
that glori<
tify them,
mity. If
LETTER TO A MEMBEE Of PARLIAMENT.
4t9
neatral power. Our orders in council are the primary cause,
and the remaining inquiry is, what is likely to be the con-
sequence? Will the present ministry revoke them? No: they
have vaunted so much about their energetic measures, that it
would be foUy to expect it. Will the American government
submit to them ? No : the independent spirit of the country
forbids it. Will France and her dependencies acquiesce in
them? No: Bonaparte does not possess a spirit sufficiently ac*
commodating to warrant us in thinking they will. The most
probable conjecture, therefore, is, that America will suspend her
trade with Europe ; throw herself upon the defensive, and in that
posture rem^n till the fighting folks of Europe come to their
senses. When that will be, God knows ; but I am much afraid
it will not be while the present administration remain in power.
I attribute the accumulated distress which is pressing upon my
country to the false policy which has been acted upon for many
years past; and I am firmly persuaded that we shall never enjoy
repose, nor prosperity, till her councils arc swayed by men ** who
will do to others as they would be done by." This, it is my firm
belief, the present ministry never will do ; and, therefore, I sin*
cerely hope that God, in mercy to mankind, will be pleased to re-
move them soon, and that he will substitute in their place men of
uprightness and integrity, who fear God and hate covetousness,
I am, &c. ,
January 35, 1808w J. M.
P. S« yan» 27.->--Siace the foregoing letter was written, advice
has been received, that what I anticipated has partly taken place.
An embargo has been laid in America, and it is easy to see the
disastrous consequences which must be the result. However,
some of our energetic politicians here are talking very big about
reducing the Tankees to obedience. No doubt, they anticipate
that glorious sport will result from an American war; and to gra-
tify them, perhaps their masters may carry matters to that extre-
mity. If they do, I have yet one piece of news in store for them :
420 APPENDIX, MO. II. »
THE Americans never will make peace until the tree-
DOM OF THE SEAS BE COMPLETELY AND UNE<^IVOCALLT RE-
COGNIZED AS A basis!
The above letter was sent to the editor of a periodical paper
in the month of June following, accompanied by the subsequent
remarks :
The foregoing letter was sent to a member of parliament in the
month of January last, and a copy of it was intended to be sent to
your Review at the same time ; but other avocations retarded it
for a few weeks, and, upon reflection, it was judged adviseable to
decline the publication until the new nystem adopted towards
America should fully develope itself.
I am now sorry to find that the most of my conjectures, unfa-
vourable as they were, are short of the reality. I find, too, that
they are corroborated by the opinions of men of the most exten-
sive information and judgment: — Mr. Baring's very able pamph-
let upon the orders in council, and Mr. Brougham's admirable
speech upon the same subject, in summing up the evidence be-
fore the house of commons, are before the public, and ought to
be read by every commercial man in these kingdoms.— Sanctioned
by these, and by the evidence of facts, further reserve is unneces-
sary. We cannot stem the torrent, but we can endeavour to open
the eyes of our countrymen to see the sacrifice which many of
them are so loudly calling for; and we can prepare such of them
as are open to conviction, for what will infallibly be the issue if
the system is long persevered in. — Necessity may compel the Ame-
rican government to encourage their own manufactures for the pre-
sents and if they be once established^ justice to the manufacturers
may call upon it to protect them. We run great risk of losing
THE TRADE WITH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA FOR EVER.
IV
EXTRACTS FROM BllOUGHAM*8 SPEECH.
4St
Extracts from the Speech of Mr. Brougham before the House of
Commons, April 1, 1808.
SIR, until our orders in council were issued, it appears clear-
ly, without any reasoning, to any one who looks at the subject, that
there was no possibility whatever of Bonaparte putting his threats
into execution.
You will find that in every quarter we have, by our orders in
council, been crossing and striking in with the enemy's plans, and
supplying those deficiencies in their orders, which they in vain
attempted to make up. You will see, too, what the result has been ;
that the commerce of this once flourishing country is now brought
down to a state lower than it ever was expected to reach, even by
the most gloomy prophets, in the worst times of our history.
I hold in my hand a paper ordered to be printed on the 15th of
March, and giving the value of imports from the United States,
and exports thither, for the years 1805, 1806, and 180r. It ap-
pears from this documenr, that in 1806, the imports from Ameri-
ca to Great Britain amounted to 4,360,743/. r«al value, and that
the exports from Great Britain to the United States, in the same
year, amounted to 12,865,551/.; and, by the average of those
three years, we find the exports to the United States of America
amount to upwards of twelve millions sterling, and the average of
imports to upwards of four millions and a half; and as the dispro-
portion is increasing, we may say in general, that this country now
exports to America three times as much as she imports from
thence.
I have just to ask the house this one question, are you willing
to continue exporting to America twelve millions and a half of
BriUsh produce and manufacture, or are you not ? If you are, how
are you to be paid for it ? It is evident, that you only receive four
millions direct from America ; therefore there are no less than
eight millions wanting, and America, we all know, can only pay
you by trading with the continent. If you wish to cut up that
4S3
APPENDIX, MO. II.
trade by the roots, you commit that old solecism of power, as my
lord Bacon so well calls it ; you wish to command the end, but
you refuse to submit to the means. You desire to trade with the
United States of America ; but you desire, at the same time, to
lop off their trad^ with the enemy, as you call it, which is, in other
words, lopping oflf the very commerce which you carry on with
your enemy, in spite of the war, and in spite of himself, by which
you were getting eight millions sterling each year ; by which you
were enabled to continue a trading nation. You are destroying
the only means by which America can pay that enormous amount
to you. She must have the opportunity, not only of taking your
goods, but of exporting her own, in order to pay you. She must
not only export her own goods, she must also re-export yours
with them, in order that you may still send them to your enemy,
notwithstanding the hostilities you are engaged in; notwithstand-
ing the decrees he is threatening your trade with. So stands the
matter in argument, or, if you will, in theory; and I now invite
this house to say, whether it is possible for them to conceive any
thing more precise and conclusive than the evidence which has
been adduced at your bar, to show that this is also the matter of
fact, from the actual history of our trade with America.
Therefore, sir, I say, that in every point of view in which we
can look at this new system of commercial regulation, we see but
one effect, namely, that of ruining and cutdng off, root and branch,
the whole of our traffic with the United States of America, or, in
other words, I may say, the whole of our foreign trade.
Sir, this short and summary view of the measure, even without
the aid of the statement so satisfactorily set forth in the evidence
before you, will, I trust, prove sufficiently decisive to entitle me to
leave this branch of the argument without one further comment,
and to affirm that I have completely demonstrated a proposition at
first sight rather paradoxical : that England has, by her own mea-
sures, effectually, strictly, vigorouslyy c(Hmtersigned the enemy's
edict.
i\
REMARK^ ON Till SCOTTIIH PEASANTRY.
483
No. lU.
Remarki on the Scottish Peasantry.
EHrMted from Curtie't edition of Burnt' Works.
A SLIGHT acquaintance with the peasantry of Scotland will
serve to convince an unprejudiced observer, that they possess a
degree of intelligence not generally found among the same class of
men in the other countries of Europe. In the very humUcst con-
dition of the Scottish peasants, every one can read, and most per-
sons are more or less skilled in writing and arithmetic ; and under
the disguise (^ their uncouth appearance, and of their peculiar man-
ners and dialect, a stranger will discover that they possess a curio-
sity, and have obtained a degree of information, corresponding to
these acquirements.
These advantagen they owe to the legal provision made by the
pariiateent of Scotland in 1646, for the establishment of a school in
every parish throughout the kingdom, for the express purpose of
educating the poor ; a law which may challenge comparison with
any act of legislation to be found in the records of history, whethei^
we consider the wisdom of the ends in view, the simplicity of the
means employed, or the provisions made to render these means
effectual to their purpose. This excellent statute was repealed on
the accession of Charles II. in 1660, together with all the other
'laws passed during the commonwealth, as not being sanctioned by
the roysd assent. It slept during the reigns of Charles and James,
but was re-enacted precisely in the same terms, by the Scottish
parliament, after the Revolution in 1696 ; and this is the last pro-
vision on the subject. Its effects on the national character rah'jf
be considered to have commenced about the period of the Union ;
and doubUess it co-operated with the peace and security aris-
ing from that happy event, in producing the extraordinary change
■m^m
424
APPENDIX, NO. III.
in fayouc of industry and good morals, which the character of the
common people of Scotland has since undergone.
The church-establishment of Scotland happily coincides with
the institution just mentioned, which may be called its school-
establishment. The clergyman, being every where resident in
his particular parish, becomes the natural patron and superin-
tendant of the parish-school ; and is enabled in various ways to
promote the comfort of the teacher, and the proficiency of the
scholars. The teacher hi mself is often a candidate for holy orders,
who, during the long course of study and probation required in the
Scottish church, renders the time which can be spared from his pro-
fessional studies, useful to others as well as to himself, by assuming
the respectable character of a schoolmaster. It is common for the
established schools, even in the country parishes of Scotland, to
enjoy the means of classical inscruction; and many of the farmers,
and some even of the cottagers, submit to much privation, that they
may obtain, for one of their sons at least, the precarious advantage
of a learned education. The difficulty to be surmounted arises,
indeed, not from the expence of instructing their children, but from
the charge of supporting them. In the country parish-schools, the
English language, writing, and accounts, are generally taught at
the rate of six shillings, and Latin at the rate of ten or twelve shil-
lings, per annum. In the towns, the prices are somewhat higher.
It would be improper in this place to inquire minutely in:o the
degree of iiistruction received at these seminaries, or to attempt
any precise estimate of its effects, either on the individuals who
are the subjects of this instruction, or on the community to which
they belong. That it is on the whole favourable to industry and
morals, though doubtless with some individual exceptions, seems
to be proved by the most striking and decisive appearance ; and it
is equally clear that it is the cause of that spirit of emigration and
of adventure so prevalent among the Scots. Knowledge has, by
Lord Verulam, been denominated power; by other i it has, with
less propriety, been denominated virtue or happiness : we may with
confidence consider it as motion. A human being, in proportion
\
\
REMARKS ON THE SCOTTISH PEASANTRY.
435
as he is informed, has his wishes enlarged, as well as the means of
gratifying those wishes. He may be considered as taking within
the sphere of his vision a large portion of the globe on which we
tread, and discovering advantage at a greater distance on its sur-
face. His desires or ambition, once excited, are stimulated by his
imagination, and distant and uncertain objects, giving freer scope
to the operation of this faculty, often acquire in the mind of the
youthful adventurer, an attraction from their very distance and
uncertainty If, therefore, a greater degree of instruction be given
to the peasantry of a country comparatively poor, in the neigh-
bourhood of other countries rich in natural and acquired advanta-
ges ; and if the barriers be removed that kept them separate ; emi-
gration from the former to the latter will take place to a certain
extent, by laws nearly as uniform as those by which heat diffuses
itself among surrounding bodies, or water finds its level when left
to its natural course. By the articles of the Union, tae barrier
was broken down which divided the two British nations, and
knowledge and poverty poured the adventurous natives of the north
over the fertile plains of England, and, more especially, over the
colonies which she had settled in the east and in the west. The •
stream of population continues to flow from the north to the south;
for ihe causes that originally impelled it continue to operate ; r.nd
the richer country is constantly invigorated by the accession of an
informed and hardy race of men, educated in poverty, and prepar*
ed for hardship and danger, patient of labour, and prodigal of life.
The preachers of the reformation in Scotland were disciples of
Calvin, and brought with them the temper as well as the tenets of
that celebrated heresiarch. The presbyterian form of worship and
of church government was endeared to the people, from its being
established by themselves. It was endeared to them, also, by the
struggle it had to maintain with the Catholic and the Protestant
episcopal churches, over both of which, after a hundred years of
fierce, and sometimes bloody contention, it finally triumphed, re?
ceiving the countenance of government, and the sanction of law.
During this long period of contention and of suffering, the temper
VOL. I.
3 H
nm
'?«»'* a*-* .^ ■ AFFEWDIX, NO. Ill*' ?m««*?>1??I'
of the people became iiiore ahd more obstinate and bitted } imd
the nation received that deep tinge of fanaticiun, which coloured
their public transactions as wellasth^ir private virtues, and of
which evident traces may be found in our own times.. When the
puUic tchoiols were established, the instruction communicated in
them partook of the religious character of the people* The Catechism
of the Westminster Divines was the univer8idschool*book,and was
put into the hands of the young peasant as soon as he had acquir-
ed a knowledge of his alphabet ; and his first exercise in the art
of reading introduced him to the most mysterious doctrines of the
Christian faith. This practice is continued in our own times.
After the Assembly's Catechism, the Proverbs Of Solomon and
the New and Old Testament follow in regular succession ; , and
the scholar departs, gifted with the knowledge of the sacred wri-
tings, and receiving their doctrines according to the interpretation
of the Westminster Confession of Fs ith. Thus, with the instruc-
tion of infancy in the schools of Scotland, are blended the dogmas
of the national church ^ and hence t le first and most constant ex-
eitise of ingenuity among the peaspatry of Scotland ts displayed
in religious disputation. With a sti'ong attachment to the nation-
al creed is conjoined a bigoted preference of certain forms of wor-
ship ; the source of which w6uld be often altogether obscure, if we
did not recollect that the ceremonies of the Scottish church were
framed in direct opposition, in every point, to those of the chin^
of Rome. . ■ - ^ ..I'-mni'^:;:,-.
The information and the religous education of tht peasantry of
Scotland promote sedateness of conduct, and habits of thought
and reflection.-^These good qualities are not counteracted by the
establishment of poor-laws, w hich, while they reflect credit oh the
benevolence, detract from the wisdotn of the English legislature.
Happily, in Scotland, the same legislature which established a
system of instruction for the poor, resisted the introduction of a
legal provision for the support of poverty; the establi^ment of
the first, and the rejection of the last, were equally favorable to in-
dustry and good morals j^ and hence it will not appeir surprssan'g,
BEMARK8 OH THB SCOTTXIft. PEAlAMTRY.
Mf
d) ind
i)loured
and of
heathc
:ated in
techiun
and was
acquir-
I the art
jsofthe
1 times,
ion and
on ; , and
red wri-
>retation
instruc-
dogmas
ttant ex-
isplayed
; natiOn-
of wor-
re, if we
ch were
t cburch
lantry of
thought
d by the
it Qh the
}lature.
>li8hed a
lor of a
ment of
)le to in-
rpriainlg,
if the Scottish peasantry have a more than usual share of pradence
and reflection, if they approach nearer than persons of their order
usually do to the definition of a man, that of *^ a being that looks
before and after*'' These observations must, indeed, be taken with
m^iny exceptions: the favorable operation of the causes just men*
liooed is counteracted by others of an opposite tendency ; and the
subject, if folly examined, would lead to discussions of great ex<*
tent.
When the reformation was established in Scotland, instrumen-
tal music was banished from the churches, as savouring too much
of *^ profane minstrelsy." Instead of being regulated by an in-
strutnent, die voices of the congregation are led and directed by 9
person under the name of a precentor, and the people are all ex-
pected to join in the tune whicn he chooses for the psalm which i^
to be sung. Church-music is therefore a part of the education of
the peasantry of Scotland, in which they are usually instructed in
the long winter nights by the parish school-master, who is general-
ly the precentor, or by itinerant teachers more celebrated for their
powers of voice. This branch of education had, in the last reign,
fallen into some neglect, but was revived about thirty or forty years V
ago, when the music itself was reformed and improved.
That dancing should also be \try generally a part of the educa-
tion of the Scottish peasantry will surprise those who have only
seen this description of men ; and still more those who reflect on
the rigid spirit of Calvinism, with which the nation is so deeply af-
fected, and to whidi this recreation is strongly abhorrent. The win-
ter is also the season when they acquire dancing, and indeed almost
all their other instruction. They are taught to dance by persons ge-
nerally of their own number, many of whom work at daily labour
during the summer months. The school is usually a barn, and
the arena for the performers is generally a clay floor. The dome
is lighted by candles stuck in one end of a cloven stick, the other
end of which is thrust into the wall. Reels, strathspeys, country-
dances, and hornpipes r^^x here practised. The jig, so much In
favour among the English peasantry, has no place anuuig them*
438
•',y«f^«st€i ▲^PZHD», NO. ifi; >Trf^'>"«r^j
The attachmeht of the people 6{ Scotland of every rank, aod par-
ticularly of the peasantry, to this amusement, is very great. After
the labours of the day are over, young men and women walk
many miles, in the cold and dreary nights of winter, to these
country dancing-schools ; and the instant that the violin sounds a
Scottish air, fatigue seems to vanish, the toil-bent rustic becomes
erect, his features brighten with sympathy; every nerve seems to
thrill with sensation, and every artery to vibrate with life. These
rustic performers are indeed less to be admired for grace, than
for agility and animation, and their accurate observance of time.
Their modes of dancing, as well as their tunes, are common to
every rank in Scodand, and are now generally known. In our
own day they have penetrated into Englapd, and have established
themselves even in the circle of royalty. In another generation
they will be naturalized in every part of the island.
The prevalence of this taste, or rather passion for dancing,
among a people so deeply tinctured with the spirit and doctrines
of Calvin, is one of those contradictions which the philosophic
observer so often finds in national character and manners. It is
probably to be ascribed to the Scottish music, which, through all
its varieties, is so full of sensibility, and which, in its livelier
strains, awakes those vivid emotions that find in dancing their
natural solace and relief.
This triumph of the music of Scotland over the spirit of the
established religion^ has not, however, been obtained without
long-continued and obstinate struggles. The numerous sectaries
who dissent from the establishment, on account of the relaxation
which they perceive, or think they perceive, in the church, from
her original doctrines and discipline, universally condemn the
practice of dancing, and the schools where it is taught ; and the
more elderly and serious part of the people, of every persuasion,
tolerate rather than approve these meetings of the yoiing of both
sexes, where dancing is practised to their spirit-stirring music,
where care is dispelled, toil is forgotten, and prudence itself is
sometimes lulled to sleep. ^ 71
REMARKS ON THE SCOTTISH PEASANTRY.
4S9
ndpar-
, After
n walk
D these
rands a
ecomes
eems to
These
;e, than
>f time,
mon to
In our
iblished
leration
lancing,
lOctrines
losophic
s. It is
ough all
livelier
3g their
of the
without
lectaries
axation
h, from
mn the
and the
suasion,
of both
; music,
itself is
The reformation, which proved fatal to the rise of the other
fine arts in Scotland, probably impeded, but could not obstruct,
the progress of its music ; a circumstance that will convince the
impartial inquirer, that this music not only existed previously to
that aera, but had taken a firm hold of the nation ; thus affording
a proof of its antiquity stronger than any produced by the re-
searches of our antiquaries.
The impression which the Scottish music has made on the
people, is deepened by its union with the national songs, of which
various collections, of unequal merit, are before the public*
These songs, like those of other nations, are many of them humo-
rous, but they chiefly treat of love, war, and drinking. Love is
the subject of the greater proportion. Without displaying the
higher powers of the imagination, they exhibit a perfect know-
ledge of the human heart, and breathe a spirit of affection, and
sometimes of delicate and romantic tenderness, not to be sur-
passed in modern poetry, and which the more polished strains of
antiquity have seldom possessed.
There is now a legal provision for parochial schools, or rather
for a school in each of the different townships into which the
countr^*^ is divided, in several of the northern states of North
America. They are, however, of recent origin there, excepting
in New England, where they were established in the last century,
probably about the same time as in Scotland, and by the same
religious sect. This is also the case in certain districts in Eng-
land, particularly in the northern parts of Yorkshire and of Lan-
cashire, and in the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland.
A lawf providing for the instruction of the poor, was passed
by the parliament of Ireland ; but the fund was diverted from its
purpose, and the measure was entirely frustrated. Proh pudor^!
* « With what execration should the stacesman be loaded^' who could fnistrate
a measure so beneficial to society ! If the statesman who neglects to provide the
means of instruction be culpable, what are we to think of those who are opposed
to the instruction of the mass of the people altogether ?
430
AVPINSIX, Na. II !•
■%<s\> -y '*/-f
The timilarity of character between the Scots and the people
of New England can scarcely be overlooked. That it arises in a
great measure from the similarity of their institutions for instruct
tion, cannot be questioned. It is no doubt increased by physical
causes. With a superior degree of instruction, each of these na^
tions possesses a country that may be said to be sterile, in the
neighbourhood of countries comparatively rich< Hence emigra*-
tions and other effects on conduct and character which such cir-
cumstances naturally produce. This subject is in a high degree
curious. The points of dissimilarity between these nations might
be traced to their causes also, and the whole investigation would
perhaps admit of an approach to certainty in our conclusions, to
which such inquiries seldom lead. How much superior in morals,
in intellect, and in happiness, the peasantry of those parts of £ngo
kind are, who have opportunities of instruction, to the same class
in other situations, those who inquire into the subject will speedily
discover. The peasantry of Westmoreland, and of the other
districts mentioned above, if their physical and moral qualities be
taken together, are, in the opinion of the editor^ superior to the
j^easantiy of suay pEMTt of the island/'''.
From the foregoing account of the parish establishment of Scot-
land, it will readily be perceived that the Scottish peasantry are
pkced under circumstances peculiarly favourable to the dissemi-
nation of kncsvledge among them. As they receive an early
education, they are generally intelligent, and have a taste for read*
ing, but, being mostly in poor circumstances, books, to a great ex-
tent, are not within their reach. To provide for the general dis-
semination of knowledge, by books, it occurred to me, that an ex-
*A bill was brought into the British parliament, by Mr. Whitbread, in 1W8, to
make provision for the education of the people of England. It was opposed by
the whole tory and court influence of the country, including even' Mr. Wyniktm,
i. pretended vfhig. wv-'-w," « ,,-,:,_ j „.„,,.,; ,;. .;
INSTITUTION or THB. GLASGOW PUBLIC LIBRARY. 431
people
es in a
istruco
Kysical
ese nar
in the
imigraf
ich cir-
degree
s might
1 wouUl
jjons, to
morals,
of Eng^
me clas^
speedily
le other
alities be
or to the
-v.,j,-f-
lat an ex-
in 1«08, to
I opposed by
cellent pUm would be to adopt a system of K7BLic libraries,
one to be established in each pari^.
^f I communicated diis idea to a friend in ^ begir.ning of the
year 1804. He concurred with me in opinion { and, with a view
of trying its practicability, we digested the plan of a library to be
established in the city of Glasgow, upon such principles that it
might, with some Modifications, be adopted throughout that, or
any other country. The greatest dtliculty we had to encounter,
in putting this plan in execution, was in the attempt to make the
property entirely public, and to introduce a principle by which
every member of the community, in all time coming, might avail
themselves of the use of the library on the same terms as the ori-
ginal subscribers. We made many attempts, but could not get
a single individual to join us, and the plan was likely to be aban-
doned, when it occurred to my friend, who' was a little eccentric,
that we could establish the library oursehes. This idea was
adopted. We drew up and signed the regulations ; paid our en-
try-money aUd Annual contribution, tod with the amount purchas-
ed Paleif*s Natural Theology^ and Lord Lauderdale's Essay on
Public Wealthy which laid the foundation of the library. My
friend took the office of librarian, and I hekl all the other offices.
We held regular meetings, and had much intellectual pleasure in
superintending 6ur infant institution. The circumstance deve-
loped a new fact in the history of- literature, namely, that two
members were sufficient to form a library. In the course of a few
weeks, we were joined by two or three moire, and. the funds they
contributed Wei'e immediately laid out in the purchase of popular
books, which enabled us to gratify our new subscnbers as fast as
they joined us^ By the monrti of December, the subscribers
amounted to 34, and there were 40 volumes in the library. A
general meeting was then held, and the library was formally insti-
tuted on the 10th of that motithr- Another meeting was held on the
3d of January, 1805, wher office-bearers were elected, and the in-
stitution has since prospered in a very eminent degree. Its pro-
gress for the first four years is exhibited in the following table.
432
▲PPBNDIX, MO. III.
."...>:.■*,■
Since the year I8O89 its progress has been more rapid ; it now
contains nearly 5000 volumes of choice books, and promises to
become one of the most extensive libraries in the British islands*
-.^ li U worthy qf remark^ thai party politica we^e never known in
the institution.
Table of the Rise and Progreta of the Glasgow Public
Library.
'V *.■
No.
of Subscribers,
No* ofvi
1804. July 2
2
2
Dec. 10
34
40
1805. Jan. 3
54
53
April 1
7%
169
July 1
126
345
Oct. 1
145
439
1806. Jan. 1
163
487
April 1
173
745
July 1
1^
782
Oct. 1
21a
808
180Jr. Jan. 1
»40
945
April 1
259
1086
July 1
275
1105
Oct. 1
2a9
1157
1808. Jan. 1
313
1861
April 1
317
1453
July 1
332
1476
Sept. 16
339
1502
Since I left the country, the library has been incorporated, on
which occasion the articles were somewha' modified, and are not
now sufficiently expressive of the original ; >rinciples of the insti-
tution, in consequence of which I have inserted the words in
italics, in the following abstract of the mr iified copy.
Regu
" Thi
Hn
on I
To
anobji
tention
For
establii
RY IS
perreg
asmaU
For
followij
I. E
rerfior
being t
shall w
II. I
lings an
and the
who en
half yea
Octobei
annual c
day of J
anyrigh
as may I
return, i
contribu
VOL. 1
INITITUTION or TBC GI.A800W PUBLIC IIBRART. 433
Regulation* of the Ciasgoto Public Library^ instituted Decern'
^r, 1804.
" The attainment of t:^an*s true rank in the creation, and his pre"
sent and future hapfii)7eosy individual as well as public^ depend
on the cultivation and proper direction of the human faculties**
To provide the means of diffusing literature and knowledge, ii
an object of the greatest importance to society, an</ claims the at"
tentionof every friend to mankind*
For this purpose, it has been judged a matter of great utility, to
establish and to keep up in all time coming, a PUBLIC LIBRA*
RY IN THE CITY OF GLASGOW, which shall be open, under pro*
per regulations, to all inclined to take the benefit of it, upon paying
a small sum annudly, towards its support and increase.
For establishing such a library, the members agree upon the
following
REGULATIONS.
I. Each subscriber, upon his admission, shall pay to the treasu^
rer for the time, twelve shillings of entry-money j and the object
being the general dissemination tf knowledge^ the entry'money
shall never be raised*
II. Each member shall pay an anmaal contribution of ten shil*
lings and six^pence. Those who enter betwixt the first of January
and the foist of April, shall pay a full year'i contribution ; &i0»ti
who enter betwixt the first of AfH-il and th^ first of October, a
hatf year's contribution; smd those who enter betwixt the first of
October and the first of January, shall be free till Januaiy. The
annual contribution shall be paid on or before the second Wechies-
day of Jjanuary yearly, and those, who fail to do so, shall not have
any rigjht to the use of the library till it is paid. Such members
as may be under the necessity of leaving the place, shall, on their
return, be entitled to the use of the library, on paying tlie annual
contribution for the year then current, and exigible from those
VOL. I. 81
4U
APPtHDiS, NO. Iff*
members. Should any person who has been a member for five
yearSf become unable to pay the annual contrihutioni he will be
entitled to the use of the library grafts. The curators for the time
will be judges of such claims.
III. Such 09 wish at any time to become members of this huti'
tution^ shall pay the entry-money and annual contribution^ in terms
of the foregoing article^ to the treasurer^ who vnllgrtoe a receipt,
and^ upon producing it to the librarian, he is empowered to add his
name to the list of subscribers, and admit him a member accor-
dingly. The right of a member to the use of the library may be
transferred to any other person, upon such member sending a let-
ter to that effect to the treasurer, and the person, to whom the
transfer is made, paying two shillings and six-pence in name of en-
try-money. ^ '*
IV. The funds to be raised in virtue of this institution, shall,
after defraying the necessary expences, be applied in purchasing
books of approved merit only. Of these a judgment will be form-
ed by a majority of the members, at each general meeting; But
no purchase shall, at any time, be made, to a greater extent than
the funds in hand are sufficient to pay.
V. The property of the library shall be, and the same is hereby
vested in the members m trust, for the purposes of the institu-
tion, the title whereof shall be, *' The Glasgow Public Li-
brary, instituted IN THE TEAR 1804."
>VL There shall be four general meetings annually, viz* on die
first Wednesday of January, the first Wediiesday of ApriU the
first Wednesday of July, and the first Wednesday of October.
Intimation of the pkce and hour of such meetings, shall be sent to
each member by the secretary or librarian, three days before the
meetings take place. Extraordiiiary general meetings upon spe-
cial affairs may, in like manner, at any time be called by the cura-
tors, who shall also be obliged to call such meetings within eight
days after a written request to that effect is made to them, tqr any
12 of the members.
Hf^i .. '
} -;.
.*f^
'#X
INSTITUTION or TBI OLAlOOW PBVI.IC LIBRARY. 435
VIL The management of this institution shall be vested in a
committee, consisting of nine curators, a treasurer, secretary, and
librarian ; of whom four shall, at all times, be a quorum. The elec-
tion shall take place at the general meeting, on the first Wednesday
of January, yearly, by a majority of the members then assembled.
The three curators who are then at the head of the hat, shall go
out ofoffice, and three others shall be elected in their place, and
added, in the order of their election, to the foot of the list. The
presiding curator shall put the question, which of the members
shall be first elected one of the three curators ; and from the per-
son so elected, he shall, either in presence of tkie meeting, or at the
first subsequent meeting of the curators, take a solemn promise,
that he will discharge the duties of his office with fidelity. And
in like manner the election of the second and third curators, and
of the treasurer, secretary, and librarian shall be conducted.
When a vacancy occurs in the curacy, it shall be filled up by the
members at the next general meeting, and the person or persons so
elected, shall, in the order of their election, be added to the foot of
the list of curators. The offices of treasurer and secretary, may
be vested in one or two persons, as the meeting may think proper,
who, with the librarian, may be continued at pleasure. At all
meetings, the first curator shall be preses ; in his absence, the
next curator, and so on to the last ; in the absence of all the cura-
tors, the treasurer ; and in his absence, the eldest member pre-
sent.
VIII. The treasurer shall have the management of the society's
funds, and the secretary of the minutes and correspondence, and
both offices shall be purely honorary. The librarian, who is also
under secretary, shall have the management of the books of the
library, subject to the rules made, or to be made, by the members
for its government, and may or may not have a salary, as circum-
stances shall direct.
IX. A meeting of the committee shall be held on the Wednes-
day previous to each general meeting, when the treasurer shall lay
a state of his transactions before them, for the purpose of being au-
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diced Mid setded, and the balaiice in his hands aMeitiiii^d* They
will then iafsrm themselves of the stats of the library, and inake
out a report thereon, to be laid before the general meeting, to-
gether with a list of such books as they would tecommend for the
use of the library. And the bettel^ to enable them to prepare such
list, every member is invited to lodge widl the libmrian, b^re
the commitcee meetings take place, a memorandum of such bodks,
not exceeding five in number, as meet his approbation. The com*
mittee shaH also cause a list of the members to be made up eight
days previous to the general meetings on the first Wednesday <>f
January^ yearly, which list shall be entered in a book kept for the
purpose, signed by the secretary^ and shall, if required, be pro-
duced at every general meeting. To that list shall be added the
names of those who, during the year, have become members of
the institution, and from it the names of those who die, resign, or
forfeit their right, shall be delated.
The first curator and secretary shall have pow«r to call a meet-
ing of the committee, as often at they may think necessary, of
which the secretary shall g^Ve proper notice to all the members,
the day before such meetings take {dace v and it shall be incum-
bent on every member to attend, or to seii^d a written excuse to
the satisfacdon of the meeting. But if uiy member neglect to at-
tend, or to send an excuse for two successive meetings, he shldl be
held as having resigned his office.
X* At each quarterly general meeting, a report of the proceed-
ings of the committee shall be laid before the members for their
ctmsideratioo. The list of books previously prepared by the com*
mittee, shall also be laid before them, from which they shall make a
selection, with any additions they may judge proper, and give or-
ders to the treasurer which to purchase accordingly. '
Xlf A majority of two^thirds of the subscribers, at any general
meeting assembled, may a^i^y to the crown for a charter of incor-
poration, or to die provost, magistrates, and town-council fA^ the
city of Glasgow, for a seal of cause, in confirmation of thase regu-
lations, r .
IlllTITirriON Of TBI OLAfOaW PUBLIC LIBRABT. 4M'
Th6 lockty reservt the power of adding to, altfriiig, or aiiMtid*>
iflg ^MM regukitioiit. But no such additiont, alientkMM, or
amendments shall be made, unless a specific motion in writing is
made^ seconded, and entered upon the minutes, at a general meet-
ing of the society* And^ in order to allow the members time to
deliberata on the proprie^ of such additions, alterations, or
amendments, thus made and seconded, the consideration thereof
shall not be resumed until the quarterly meeting, occurring thriet
inpntiis thereafter, and if approved of by two-thirds of the mem-
bers present at such quarterly meeting, the same shall thencefor«
ward become a law of the society.. But it is declared thai no law
ehail eiferbe pShed to dieeohe the society^ or to prevent the public
at large from participating in it» advamtagWy by raising the entry
money*
RULES FOR THE LIBRARIAN, v
L The Ubrarian shall kesp the key of the library, and have the
CQStody c^ the books, for which he shall be accountable. When
he enters on his charge, he shall receive an exact catalogue of the
books, subscribed by the treasurer and five of the curators, which
shall lie in the library ; and a copy of this catalogue, subsjcribed
by die librarian, with an acknowledgment of his having received
iht books therein, shall be lodged with the treasurer*
IL Each subscriber shall be entitled to receive from the libra-
rian, and have in his possession at one time, only, one volume of
folio, or of quarto ; or two volumes in any one book of octavo and
under $ but when any book consists of one volume, he shdl be en«>
tided to that volume only*
" III*. Books iafii^o may be kept out of the library six week»at
a time t in quarto, four weeks ; in octavo and under, two vreeks.
A single number of any book, review, <»* magazine, four days
only*
ly. If any subscriber detain a book beyond the time specified,
he must pay a fine of three-pence for every week the book is so de-
^sm***
438
▲PrSlTDIZ, MO. III.
M
tained, and for a len time in proportion ; and he can have no other
book from the librarjr, till the former be returned) and the fine
paid.
V. If any subscriber shall lend, or suffer to be lent our of his
house or family, any book or pamphlet belonging to the library,
he shall forieit two shillmgs and six-pence fcnr the first offence;
five shillings for the second j and if guilty of a ^hirdy he shall for-
feit all right to the library.
VI. If a subscriber lose a book, he must pay the value of it ; or
if a volume of a set be lost, that set must be taken and paid for. If
any book.be injured beyond what inay be reasonably allowed for
ther using, it must be laid before the committee f(# their determi-
nation, and the injury be pud for to their satisfsMrtion.
VII. The librarian must take a receipt, in a book to be kept
for the purpose, for every book lent oiU ; but should it be incon-
venient for any subscriber to attend in person, for the purpose of
granting such receipt, he must send a line to the librarian, who
wUl, in that case, be authorized to subscribe for him.
VIII. The librarian must lend out the books to the subscribers
in the order of their application. A subscriber, after keepmg a
book the time specified, may take it out anew, provided no other
subscriber has applied for it in the interim.
Utt of Booh in the Glasgow Public library^ on the UtofJtmU"
ory, 1805.
Belsham's Memoirs of George III.
Bums' Works, with Suppletoent.
Campbell's Philosophy of Rhetoric
Campbell^ Version of the Four Gospels*
Cavallo's Natural Philosophy.
Chatham's Letters to his Nephew.
Darwin's Botanic Garden.
# Edinburgh Review.
Fergusson's History of Rome.
IMITITUTION OF TBI UlCAlGOW VUBLXC LIBRAIT. 439
Ferguson's Poems.
Fielding's Works.
Flowers of Literature, for 1 801 .
Franklin's Works.
Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire^
GiUies''Histoi7 of Greece.
* Godwin's Political Justice.
Goldsmith's Works.
— — . Essays.
Hamilton (Miss) on Education.
Hblcroft^s Travels, abridged.
Hume's History of Eng^d.
Junius' Lettersw
Kaimes' Art of Thinking.
Lauderdale on Public Wealth.
* Locke on the Human Understanding.
Mayor's British Tourists
M'Kenzie's yo3rage and Travds.
* Montidy Magazine.
Moore's Travels in France and Italy.
' . iSelucco.
Edward.
Paley^s Natural Theology.
Park's Thnrels in Africi^
Pindiir's Works.
Public Characters.
Ramsay's Poems.
Raynal's History of British America.
' , of the East and West Indies.
Robertson's Works.
Shakspeare's Worics.
Smith's Wealth of Nations.
■ Theory of Moral Sentiments.
Smollett's Works.,
Staunttm's Embassy to China.
440 APrCVDIZ, MO. III.
Stewart's Elements of the Philosophy of the Human Mind.
Sully's Memoirs.
Thomson's Chemistry.
Tytler's Elements of History.
Volnev's Travels in America.
Voltaire's History of Peter the Great of Russia.
— — — — - of Louis XV.
* Wallace; or, the Vale of Ellerslie, a Poem.
Zimmerman on Solitude.
Thote marked tkiu *» are itrntticnt.
Note«-^The Monthly Magazine is received on the 4th of eac|i
month, and the Edinburgh Review on the ^th of January,
April, July, and October. The ^ubscribera fire entitled to re-
ceive one of the numbers at a time, over j^nd above the books
allowed by the regulations. The librari^m witt give them out
in the order of application, ^nd they must on no account be
kept beyond four days*
When^^I was in Edinburgh, in the month pf January, |6p9, 1
inserted an account of the institution in the Scots Magazine', pre-
paratory to recommending the plan for parish libraries ip Uiat
^ work. My subsequent operations have defeated that inteniuon,
4 in consequence of which, I have introduced the subject here ; and
^ the plan being founded on the principles of equality, and having
answered well in practice, I have no hesitat^n * . strongly xecom-
. mending it to those who may be concerned iu .esiabUshingPVIIIflo
LIBRARIES.
ON THE BRXTIIB AND AMBRICAN TRADE.
441
■^-'^
■vv ■
No. IV.
Essay on the Trade between Britain and America, '
For the Aurora.
THE inhabitants of Great Britain and the United States of
America are so allied by consanguinity, by language, by their
mutual wants, and by their ability to serve each other, that a com-
mercial intercourse betvrfcen them is of more importance than be-
tween any 6ther two nations in the world. Circumstances of a
very extraordinary nature have occurred to interrupt this com-
merce, and matters have of late assumed such a serious appear-
ance, that very gloohiy ap^rehiensions begin to be entertained that
it may be etitirely cutoff. The great importance of the subject
may be deduced,'from the mariner in which it has engrossed the
attention of all ranks of the community, in both countries ; and,
as might be expected, very many erroneous speculations are afloat
upon it. In {^articular the primary cause of the interruption has
been studiously kept from the public view, while other causes
have been alleged which have no existence in fact, and many
writers on hbth sides of the question, have not scrupled to affirm
that the trade between the two countries is of little importance.
I shsQI in this communication take a summary glance of the
nature of this commerce, making such deductions as I think the
subject warrants ; and I shall assign a reason for the interruption,
which 1 believe tb be torrect.
I shall assume as a data that the exports from Great Britain to
America have of late amounted annually to about 12 millions
steriing) or about 53 millions of dollars ; and that the returns in
American produce have amounted to about five millions sterling,
or ab(Hlt 22 millions of doUars. The balance was paid to Britain
by bills of exchange arising from the trade between America and
VOL. I. 3k,
»• ■^•
44S
APPftNDlX, NO. IV.
m
the continent of Europe ; and the greater part of the carrying
trade has been in American vessels.
Now, the exports from Britahi to America have consisted
principally of manufactures, which that ingenious and industrious
people have brought to great perfection, and can, in general,
furnish on better terms than any other nation in the world. This
arises from the manner in which the numufactures are organized.
Particular branches have been brought to maturity in particular
districts of country best calculated for carrj'ing them on ; thus-
cotton manufactures in Manchester, Glasgow, Paisley, &c. linen
manufactures in Ireland, and different parts of Scodand ; woollens
in Leeds, Buiv^ Siirewsbury, &c. hardware in Birmingham, cut-
lery in Sheffield, hosiery in Nottingham, Leicester, &c. &c* The
necessary divisions and sub-divisions of labour have taken place.
The labourers are possessed of a patient industry and a frugal
economy which cannot be surpassed. A great portion of the
labour is performed by machinery, more especially since the sue-
cessful introduction of the steam engine ; so that all the articles
above enumerated, and many others that might be mentioned,
can, notwithstanding the p/ess of taxation, arising from the dis-
sipation of the court, be furnished in Britain on better terms than
in any other nation whatever. Now, it is surely the 'interest of
the people o£ Britain to dispose of as many of these manufactures
as possible. They cannot get a better market than' the United
States.
It is the interest of the people of the United States to receive
them, so long as they can apply their industry to better advantage
in clearing and cultivating their lands, and in applying to other
branches of internal policy. , ;►,
Again, the returns that are made to Britain are mutually ad-
vantageous. They clear the hands of the growers of produce
here of their surplus articles, at fair prices ; and furnish a supply
of raw materials for the manufactures, and of food for the mapu-
I'acturers; of timber for buildings and machiner}% of ash(>s for
^A
ON THE BRITISH ANDf AMKRtCAN TRADE.
443
their bleaichfieldt; to say nothing of many other articles of utHity,
convenience, and luxury.
As to the carrying part, it has been mostly in American vessels,
and it is mutually advantageotiiethat it should be so, for this very
plain reason, that it can be done at the cheapest rate. Britain
being kept in a state of eternal warfare, her shipping is of course
subjected to considerable sea-risk, and a consequent increase of
freight and insurance, which American shipping is exempted from,
and it follows that the cheapest will be preferred. Just so will
commerce always regulate itself, if left to its own operation ; and
the greatest service that governments can render it is *^ to let it
alone." I believe it may be safely affirmed, that, by being car-
ried in American vessels during the war, American produce will
go to the British market from 10 to 12 per cent, cheaper, and
British manufactures will be carried to America from 8 to 10 per
cent, cheaper than in British vessels. This is, of course, a great
saving to the inhabitants of both countries ; and I wish to state
this explicidy, because that class of men in Britain, who call them-
anises " the shipping interest^*' have made a terrible yelping and
noise about it ; but why, in the name of common sense, should
their interest^ or the interest of any particular class be set up in
opposition to the interest of a nation ?
From this short review it is evident, that the trade between the
two countries has been mutually ?vantageous. To the inhabi-
tants of America it is useful and , wenient ; to those of Britain
it is essentially necessary : it cannot be the wish of either people
to stop it ; reason, and common sense, and self-interest forbid it.
"Whence then does the interruption arise ? {Here a number of
the reasons -which have been assigned are noticed^ and it is then
stated,"] The true cause is to be found in the hostility of
THE COURT of Britain. They have never forgiven America
for asserting her independence. — ^They have considered the
Americans as a divided people ; and they have thought that by
persevering in a course of steady hostility', the country would fall
an easy prey.
V
U:*-
[After a number of ■peculatione on the probable changei that
might take phice, notice is taken of the dawn of hope held out by
the probabili^ of a regency and tMg minUtry being appointed in
Britain. The probable atept tMpould pursue are glanced at,
and the consequences to AmeridKunmed up thus.]— Our trade
would flourish i our good will towlurds each other, and towards
our British brethren, would encrease ; party distinctions would
be done away ; political names would be no longer applied as
terms of reproach: we would be all rsDERALXSTs— we
WOULD BE ALL REPUBLICANS.
» ',.(. •;
'^■^i.;
* END OF VOLUME I.
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