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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour etre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est film§ d partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de naut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 PICTURESQUE QUEBEC Picturesque Quebec EDITED BY GEORGE MONRO GRANT, D.D. Of Qiuens University WITH AN KLAIiORATE PREFACE BV JULIAN HAWTHORNE II.I.USTRATKD BY MORAN, F. B. SCHELL. SCHELL & HOGAN, BOURNILL, O'BRIEN, GIBSON OGDEN. AND OTHERS UNDKR TIIK. SUl'KKVISION OK L. R. O'BRIEN, Prest. R. C. A. CHICAGO, NEW YORK. AND SAN ERANCISCO BICLFORD, CLARKE & CO. PUBLISHERS 1401120 rot ^r(rl/U/ Q OirYKiciiTEn BlrXDKN liKOTHERS iS88 y PREFACE. By Julian Haw/borne. I HAVE in my possession a little, mean-looking book, about six inches long by three and a half broad, bound in parchment yellowed by age and wrinkled by damp. It is written in the Latin of the Elizabethan period, with curious contractions and solecisms, and contains upward of two hundred pages. The title has a design of symbolic figures engraved on copper, amidst which appears a scroll bearing the words, " Mundtis Alter et Idem. Auth. Mcnurio Brittannico. Hannovitc, A° 1607." If you care to brave the difficulties of the contracted and bastard Latin, you will find that the volume consists of an account of the author's travels in a region which he calls " Terra Australis, ante Itac semper incognita" and that his adventures in this hitherto une.xplored continent are of so strange and romantic a character, that it does not surprise you to learn, on reference to the proper authorities— ?^/V/^ "Bibliographical and Retrospective Miscellany" for 1830, p. 56-that Dean Swift is understood to have taken the idea of his "Gulliver's Travels" from this work; which is, in fact, the pro- duction of one Bish.p Hall, of famous and satirical memory, who adopted that method of exercising his imagination, and ventilating his notions regarding social phenomena and the vagaries of human nature. Not the least entertaining feature of the book is the series of maps which are fastened in at the end of it. The numbtr of fanciful representations of this planet of ours which were devised during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, passes mention ; but these designs yield to none of them in eccentric interest. The earth, to begin with, is treated as a Hat surface. Indeed, though Magellan had circumnavigated the globe nearly a century before the date of Bishop Hall's book, the fact of its rotundity had not then been, and was not until long afterward, generally accepted; nay, it is not twenty years since an ingenious monomaniac, by the name of " Parallax," published a volume restating the venerable dogma of flatness, with copious demonstrations. The accuracy of the good bishop's designs suffers from his rejection of the Magellian and Copernican ideas ; and his North and South America, and Europe, Asia, and Africa appear strangely dis- torted. The river Amazon is a prolonged strait, dividing the South American continent VI PRE FACE. into two iincciual parts. Capt; St. Roquc, of the latter country, approaches within some five hundred miles of Cape Veril, in .Africa. The Pacific Ocean contains hut a sinj,'lt! island, named St. Pedro, and North America siiows a hlank, uneventful surface e.xtend- ing no higher, apparently, than about the fortieth parallel, and totally destitute of rivers. On the other hand, the Straits of Maj^ellan separate Patai^onia, not from iIk; unimpor- tant " Tierra del Iniej^o " of our geofjraphics, Init from a t,Mjjantic continent, with a coast-line extending east and west fully twenty-five thousand miles, and exhibiting an area at least four times as great as that of all liie rest of the world put together. This last purports to have been the fiekl of tiie author's explorations ; and an extraor- dinary piece of ground it is. Antl yet, there seems to have been no gooil reason why tlu; readers of A" 1607 should not have accejneil it in good faith ; and I dare say many of them did. I'"or nobody really knew, in those days, wliat the earth really was like. Drake and Raleigh had made their voyages ; but they had made them with their imaginations so inflamed with anticipations of uiystery and splendor, ami with eyes so determined to behold marvels and magnificence, that tiieir travellers' tales well-nigh corresponded, not with their experience, but with their pre|)ossessions. The ])eople at home were ready to believe anything, provided it were da/zling and miraculous. No one knew — no one could even conjecture what secrets the mighty Western Continent might yet reveal. Surely, it must have been delightful and stimulating to possess so vast a held for speculation and wonder. Nothing of the sort is left for us of to-day, except a few hundred s([uare miles in the depths of .\frica, and some frigid possibilities at the Pole. If we want miracles, we must turn our thoughts to the moon, or to Mercury, and ask whether they are inhabited, and, if so, by what manner of beings. The earth -the surface of it at any rate —is a twice- told tale. Bishop Hall's map, so far as th.; North .American aspect of it is concerned, gives no hint of the great river hereafter to be called the St. Lawrence, nor, a fortiori, of such a place as Quebec ; though a French navigator, by the name of Jacques Cartier, had visited the locality as much as seventy years previous, and had anchored his ships below the Indian village under the cliff, known as Stadacona. Hut Jacques Cartier, so far as we know, took no surveying instruments with him, and the strongest impression he brought home with him probably was of the scenery. He doubtless gave Francis I. an account of the country he had visited ; but h'rancis was astute and selfish, and the more he believed Cartier's story, the less likely would he be to desire its general publi- cation. The monarchs of Europe were, at that period, jealously watching one another's movements westward, each fearing lest one <>f the others should succeed in fastening his clutches on something of incalculable value — such as a range of mountains of solid gold, or a Sindbad's valley full of diamonds. Spain, France, and England, not to mention the undemonstrative but intrepid Dutch, all wanted everything, and were resolved to assert PRE J' ALE, VII and maintain thoir prior claim tlicreto ; but while the other nations had prosecuted their researches lor the most part on or below the thirtieth parallel, I'rance, either by accident or desijrn, directed her course toward the north. If the I'rench had been as jrood col- onists as the Spaniartls, or cv<;n as the I'jiijlish, North American history would uniloubt- edly have had a complexion very tlifferent from that which it possesses. For seventy years, tlu-n, after the e.\|)eiliti<)n of Jacques Cartier, the jjreat northern river remained undisturbed, and probably unthou),du ol ; .and tlie men who had been living at tliat earlier t-poch had lorii;- been in their i^raves, wlum the second adventurer set forth. SanuK'l de Champlain started on his voyaj,'e early in tin; summer of 1608- only a few months after my copy of Mishop 1 bill's story of adventure was delivered tj the public. Very likely Champlain had seen it, thouirli, as has been intimatetl, it could have furnished him with but scanty enli^ditenment as to the rei^ion he was about to visit. Me that as it may, he might reasonably have thoujjjht that the northern part of the world offered as promisinj^ a theatre for strange discoveries as the southern ; and that he might bring back with liim a narrative as sensational as that of the imaginative ecclesiastic, and more trust- worthy, it was, at all events, with brilliant hopes and prospects that he weigheil anchor, and -which was mor(; to the point with personal capacities and powers which, humanly speaking, insur<'d his success. Tlie main iiumetliate objects of his e. lition were two — to found a trading station foi a great fiir-tr:.ding compaiu' ; and to plant in the New World the authority and religion of I'Vancc In the sequel, it was discov'(;red, as might have been expected, that these aims did not harmonize cordia'ly ; but fortunately for civil- ization, Champlain sympathized more with the latter aim than with the former; he cared more to eihicate the nativ(;s, and to give colonists tiie n, cans of supporting themselves by agriculture, than to fill the selfish pockets of a corporation. And during the succeeding twenty-eight y(!ars of his life, iu' gave the settlement an impetus in the right direction which it never lost, and left behind iiiin iIk; iiaiiu; and fame of the creator of Canada. The ■' Stadacona " which Jacepies Cartier hail told of had disappeared from remem- branci! during the intervening seventy years (though it still survives under the guise of the St. Roche suburb, and in the patriotic recollection of the present inhabitants), and Cham- plain's station was known by the naine it has ever since borne, of Quebec. The name like all of Indian origin, has a significance I)aseil upon a striking physical feature of the place which hears it. " Quebec " means th(; sudden narrowing of the waters of the river, which takes place between the heights on the northern side and the point on the southern, just above the Isle of Orleans. Eastward, the stream widens rapidly to a breadth of twenty, forty, and a hundred miles. The Laurentian Mountains loom in the distance on the north of the city, and the loftier Notre Dame range uplift themselves on the south ; the height on and around which the city itself is built is abrupt and striking — a vast, aggressive shoulder of rock, advanced defiantly against invasion. Whether to impress the imagination, or to answer practical needs, no fitter place than this could have been found on which to set the VIII PREFACE. pioneer colony of a new nation. The lint;s which Scott wroic of his native country apply with no less precision to this superb region : "Lund of wild hentli and slmKRY wood ! Land of tlic iiioiintiun and tlic tliiod ! " The scale is prander, hut the features are the same. It is no wonder, therefore, that Cape Diamond has been a jewel for which the French and the Enj^lish have Htrufjjjled from the first. The very impossibility (as it mi,i,dit appear) of capturinjr so reiloublable a sironj^diold, would act as a stimulus to the warriors who attempted it, even were it r)ot also the key to the j^reat dominion beyond. Sir David Kirke's capture of it took place nearly a hundred years before the existence of tiie fortifications designed by the Frenchman De Levy; hut it resisted the attack of .Sir William Phipps in 1690; and Ad- miral Warren, early in the next century, was prevented by fogs ami storms from so much as getting within gunshot of tin; fortress. Wolfe, as the world will long remember, was suc- cessful in 1759 ; the next year the I'rench under De Levis failed in a similar enterprise, and the ownership of the stronghold was finally decided in favor of England by the disastrous campaign of . Arnold and Montgomery. If the time e\er comes when it shall pass into the possession of the United States, the consiileration will doubtless hi.-, not blood ami powder, but parchment and ink. There are no present signs, however, that either party desires such an arrangement. Indeed, not to speak of other reasons, a regaid for the picturesque in scenery and his- tory should be enough to discourage an American jiroprietorship of this venerable coign of vantage. The present inliabitants are a full century behind the times as regards progress and business energy ; and their innate inertia (to call it by no more graphic name) assures the preservation of the place in its pr<;sent condition for the longest possible time. The French occupants of the Province of Quebec to-ilay outnumber those of English descent in the proportion of more than fifteen to one ; and their aim, reinforced by their religion, is to enjoy life, and to make no alterations in their old way of living it. The old houses, the old streets, the old agricultural processes, the old manners and customs, survive to-day almost untouched by time. Their one staple industry is the hewing of timber in their inexhaustible forests ; and during a winter which lasts from November to May even this is impracticable and the population willingly surrenders itself to the delights of the toboggan, the sleigh, and all the sports of snow and ice. Thanks to the i)olitically unwise, but otherwise commendable decree of the British Government, the English language is not taught in the schools, and the French tongue is everywhere heard. The Roman Catholic priest treads these narrow streets with the air of a master, as well he may ; since, for more than two hundred and fifty continuous years, the subtle decay that characterizes that sensuous and alluring religion has fed upon the very tap-root of the Quebec community. In short, the atmosphere of the rRi-.i-Aci:. Ix place is not merely Kiiropoan, but mediaeval ; it is older, in appearance and condi on, than settlements of far greater antiquity on the other side of the Atlantic. With St. Augustine at one extremity of tlu' continent, and Quebec at the other, we do not need to seek abroad for the charms that belong to what is ancient. They are here, and are likely to remain here quite as long as anywhere else. Of the changes that would come over the Canadian citadel under an .\merican adminis- tration, it is unnecessary to speak. Very probably Cape Diamond would be levelled to the gronnil with dynamite cartridges, after the fashion of our own Hell-Gale, and a prosperous city of broad streets and square " blocks" would arise upon its ruins. The smoke of count- less factories would pollute the crystalline atmosphere ; the river would lie bridged above and tunnelled beneath ; the virgin forests would melt away, and their place wou.d be occupied by a vast agricultural community, which would pour into the region under the stiinuhis of Government land-grants and new facilities of transport. A way would be made for Ruropean steamers up t!te .St. Lawrence and vid the Lakes to Chicago, and, in a word, Canada would become one the wealthiest countries in the world ; and one of the least attractive — even to bank-cashiers and boodle-aldermen. Let us trust that such a consummation may not be in our day. Where, meanwhile, could lie found a field more available for the novelist and romancer, whether realistic, ideal, or historical .' The latter's chief embarrassment would be to decide whether the religious, the warlike, or the pioneering features of the chronicle would suit his purpcse best, or whether to make a pot-pourri of all three. The Jesuits arrived, much to the discontent of the Fur-trading Company, in 1625, and approved themselves, then as at other times, models of self-sacrifice and devotion ; they showed what can be done by luen who have surrendered conscience and private judg- ment to human masters, and are prepared to give ui) life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness to further the material aggrandizement ami spiritual tyranny of their Church. IJut whatever may be thought of their ultimate designs, their incidental measures were beneficent. They lived with the Indians, travelled with them, mastered their language, taught them the rudiments of learning, nursed them in sickness, built hospitals for their accommodation, and, in so far as was humanly possible, led them to believe that the great white race had established themselves on their shores for other purposes than to cheat them out of their birthright and woodland wealth. The spirit of Christ was in these early missionaries — with only one difference, that they labored, not for God, but for the Society of Jesus. Ancl at that very moment, in Italy, the same Society was compelling Galileo, imder pain of torture, to deny the work of his life, to swear to a lie, and to undo, so far as might be, the i^riceless benefits which his intellect and energy had conferred upon mankind. Rut time proves all things. To-day the Indians, for whom the Jesuits forsook all that makes life tolerable, have vanished from the face of the earth, Indians and heathen still; and the work of the Italian astronomer is PRIiFACr.. recognized as the basis of all our subsequent knowledge, and has siied imperishable glory upon his name. Truly, " by their works shall you know them." It was not the Jesuit I*"athers alone who abandoned all for the Church. Even more memorable is the career of such a woman as Madame de la Peltrie, ricli, noble, and beautiful, who, in 1639, left th(' pleasures and splendors of the Parisian Court and, with- out one backwaril glance or tiiought, plunged into the northwestern wilderness, and buried herself there. .And there, for more than twenty years, she lived and worked, and died at last — it such a being can be said to the. We are wont to talk of the frivolity, the thoughtlessness, the moral corruption and degradation of those times ; and the court of France is cited as the culmination of \ ice and tiebaucher\-. Yet, out of that foul swamp of evil sprang this pure anil gracious llowi-r, wiiose golden iieart was rich with lovi; for those whom she deemed most forlorn ;ind outcast .\r(; there souls of women more de- voted and constant now ? We iiave women novelists, women doctors, women agitators, women Presidential candidate. : but the race of Matlame de la Peltrie does not seem to have greatly multiplied in the earth. And yet, perhaps, the career she missed was nobler and more arduous than the one she followed. Wiien she set lu,-r fair fsice across the dosolaie Atlantic and sought the wilderness of heathendom and ignorance, she left a more hopeless heathendom, a more terrible wilderness behind her. Not the saciiems of the llurons and .-\lgonquins, but the king and courtiers of her native country, slooil mosl in ])eril of death and judgment. Might not the influence of women like her, e.xertcd in the midst of that great ho':-bed of iniquity, hav(; operated to save some of those lofty heads destined to fail thereafter on the guillotine of i 793 ? Well, the Hotel Dien and the Convent of the Ursulines still stand as the monuments of this illustrious lady and of those who accompanied her. Their work was beneficent and honorable ; and when they had passed away, champions of another sort were found to achieve other deeds. Louis XI\^ seems to have felt a cordial interest in the colony; and, in 1663, he sent to Oueliec the man to wiiom, after Champlain, the city and the province are most indebted. Talon, the first Intendani, combined in himself many of the rarest elements of greatness. His energy, wisdom, and integrity effectinl marvels tow- ard conquering the wilderness and rendering it prospctrous and populous. He cleared the forest, he built houses and foundi.-d industries, he encouraged immigration, and prosecuted exploration and discovery in all directi:.ns. Enemies on the spot and foes abroad he foui,dit and overcame ; his will and his policy were supreme, and, so far as history re- veals, thev were in all respects good. iJut against the brightness of this famous name is set, in darkness and ignominy, that of his successor nearly a century later- -Bigot, the •wicked. He was one of those titled scoundrels whom Providence occasionally sees fit to put in high places, as if to show mankind by example what sorry pranks unbridled vice and power combined can play. The tale of his crimes, debaucheries, and follies still sur- vives like the memory of an ugly nightmare, though the gorgeous palace in which his PRHJ'ACE. XI sinister revels were iield is now but a fragment of grass-grown ruin, and the ovil he did, like all other evil deeds of man, has by the' subtle alchemy of time either been trans- formed into good, or its effect has utterly disappeared. From this execrated figure we turn with relief to that of the lovable, arbitrary, iieadstrong Laval — the worthy and able bisliop, who scarcely cared to conceal his own naive surprise at finding himself "always ill tiu! right." And so the picturesque procession goes on, in light and shadow, in peril and prosperity, in failure and success, until it culminates^so far as the French ele- ment is concerned— in tlie gallant lineaments of Frontenac, who ushers in the memor- able and fatal date of 1759. " If," says one of the greatest of English writers, " if no man is to be styled happy till after his deatii, what shall we say of Wolfe? His end was so glorious, that I protest not even his mother or hi^ mistress ought to have deplored it, or at an\- rate have wished him alive again. I knov/ it is a hero we speak of; and yet I vow I scarce know whether in the last act of his life I ndmire the result of genius, invention, and daring, or the boldness of a gamb'er winning surprising odds. Suppose his ascent discovered a half-hour sooner, antl iiis peopU;, as they would have been assuredly, beaten back .'' Suppose the Marquis of Montcalm not to quit his entrenched lines to accept that strange challenge ? Suppose these points -and none of them tlepend upon Ml". Wolfe at all — and what becomes of the glory of the young hero, of the great minister who discovered him, of the intoxicated nation which rose up frantic with self- gratulation at the victory? I say, what fate is it that shapes our ends, o. those of nations ? In the many hazardous games that my Lord Chatham played, he won this prodigious one. And as the greedy British hand seizei! the Canadas, it let fall the United States out of its grasp." That day was the apogee of the history of Quebec, and it would be anticlimax to pursue it further. But there stands the old city, as it stootl then -quaint, grotesque, charming. There are its strange, high-roofed houses, standmg, as it were, on one another's shoulders, in their eagerness to command a \iew of the noble harbor and the distant opposing mountains ; there are the antique streets, narrow, preciijitous, pre[)oster- ous, but captivating ; there is its noble terrace, spread hixuriously on the headlong brow of the cliff that overhangs the lower town ; there are the mediseval gates anil walls, like those of French cities in the time of Henry of Navarre; and there is the frowning and impregnable citadel, with its cannon and its flag -the red-cross flag of P'ngland. It is a wonderful spot; it is impossible to contemplate it immoved. And those who read the following pages, and look at the pictures which decorate every jiage. will be able to bring the scene before themselves in imagination, almost as \ividly as if they had actually journeyed thither, antl made it a part of their living memory. I?ut here, before me, lies that litde volume of Bishop Hall's, with its soiled parch- ment cover and its absurd maps ; and it is strange to think that, when that book was xu PREFACE. printed, Quebec '.ad -.o existence; Chainpiain knew not of his coming fame; Madame de la Peltrie was a little girl in pinafores ; Talon, Bigot, Frontenac, Wolfe— where were they? I know not whether the litde book, on whose map is no Canada, no United States, no River St. Lawrence, and no Quebec, makes these places and persons and events seem more real or less so. Rather, perhaps, it takes me back into that ancient, ignorant, enterprising epoch to which it belongs, and puts all these things in the light of a splendid dream, such as Shakespeare or Bacon might have dreamt, of what the future should bring forth. It is no dream now ; the future has become the past and the present ; but if Wolfe had not conquered on the Plains of Abraham, the history of the world would have been changed, and this Preface would never have been written ! CONTENTS. PREFACE BY JULIAN HAWTHORNE. QUEBEC— HISTURICAL REVIEW By George M. Grant, D. i>. • • QUEBEC, PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE By Hiss A. M. Maihar. XXXIII. FRENCH CANADIAN LIFF AND CHARACTER . By J. G. A. Cmightim, M. A. LXIl. MONTREAL lly Rev. A. J. Bray and John Lesperance, M.R.S.C. • • CIV. !i LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Quebec ...... Chapter Illustration .... Arrival of Jac(iuis Cartii.r at Stauacona Triumph ok thk Snow I'lough Champlain ..... Notre Dame Des N'ictoires . Little Champlain Street Mountain Hill ..... Prkscott Gate ..... In the (iARDKNS OF THE URSUI.INK CONVENT St. Roch's Suhurhs and Old Arsenal Remains of Intendaxt's Palace At ihe Gate of Laval University . Buade Street ..... Heights of Abraham .... Ovf.ri.ookino St. Charles Valley OvERLOOKiNi; North Channel, From Grand Ilattery anil Laval University Wolfe's Monument .... MARiELi.d Tower, on the Plains of Abraham House to which Montgomery's ISodv was Carri The Citadel, from H. M. S "Northampton" Quebec— A Glimpse from the Old City Wall View from the Old Manor House at ncAUPORT Quebec, from Point Li^-.vis Sous Le Cap .... Looking Up fro.m the Wharves DUFFERIN Tl'RRACE Custom House .... Gates of the Citadel . View from the Citadel Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm Time-Hall, from the Prince's IVastion Wolfe's Cove Kent Gate ..... St. John's Gate .... St. Louis Gate .... The Rasilica, from Fabrique Street Looking Across the Esplanade lo Reaupori' Wayside Cross, and Beauport Church Falls of Montmorency Looking Towards Quebec, from Montmorency Montmorency River ahc)ve Falls On the Road to Sillery Arx ISuAVEs .... CiiAiTER Illustration Gathering Marsh Hay . Loading a Batteau at Low Tide Cap Tourmente and Petit Cap . An Old Habitant . . Habitant and Snow-Shoes L'Anoe Gardien .... Arlist. Engraver. Page. . L. R. O'Brien . A. Willmore . Frontispiece. . L. R O'Britn . N. Orr & Co 1 . L. R. O'Brien . E. Heinemann 3 . L R. O'Brien . J. A. Bogerl. 6 , R. Harris . E. Brighton . 8 . \V. T. Smedley . W. Mollier . 9 . F. B. Schell . . W. R. Bodenstab II . F. B. Schell . . W. R. Bodenstab II . F. B. Schell . . W. R. Bodenstab 12 . F. B. Schell . . A. Hayman . U . L. R. O'Brien . A. Hayman . 17 . L. R. O'Brien . A. Hayman . , 17 , W. T, Smedley . E. Heinemann . 19 . F. B. Schell . . A. Lockhardt 32 . F. B. Schell . . T. H. Heard 23 . F. B. Schell . . George F. Smith . as . T. Morm . W^ 11. Redding 36 . F. B. Schell . . J. E. Sharp . 37 . F. B. Schell . . J. E. Sharp . »7 Ell . G. Gibson . C. J. Warden 38 . L. R. O'Brien . R. Varley . 32 . F. B. Schell Facing 33 . F. B. Schell . . Smithwiclc &• French . 33 . L. R. O'Brien . Smilhwick & French . 35 . F. B. Schell . . T. H. Heard ■ 38 . F. B. Schell . . A. Lockhardt 39 . C. E. H. Bonwill . J. T. Speer . . 40 . F. B. Schell . . N. Orr & Co . . 41 . L. R O'Brien . C. J. Warden . 44 . F. B. Schell . . J. \V. Lauderbach 45 . F. B. Schell . . J. A. Bogcrt . . . 46 . R. Harris . A. H.ayman . . 46 . L. R, O'Brien . George F. Smith 47 . F. B. Schell . W. Mollier . • • 49 . F. B. Schell . . W. Mollier . ■ ■ 49 . F. B. Schell . . J. E. Sharp . . . so . F. B. Schell . . N. Orr & Co. • • 51 . L. R. O'Brien . E. C. Held 52 . F. B. Schell . . A. V. S Anthony 55 . F. B. Schell . . Smithwick & Frenc 1 Facing 57 . T. Moran . J. A. Bogert . 57 . G. Gibson . George F. Smith • 58 . L. R. O'Brien . Juengling & Miller 60 . F. B. Schell . . George F Smith 61 . \V. R.iphael . . C. J. Warden . . 6» . Vf. T. Smedley . . J. Hellawcll . . . 63 . L. R. O'Brien . F. Levin . . 63 . L. R. O'Brien . T. Hellawell . . . 64 . W. Raphael . S. Davis . . . 65 . W. Raphael . Edith Cooper . . 67 , F. B. Schell . T. Hellawell . . 67 LIST OF JLLUSTRA TIONS. French Farms « • • • I Chateau Richer . • • • • • Wayside Waierino Trough .... St. Joachim On the Road to St. Joachim . , A Street in Chateau Richfr Falls of Ste. Anne An Old Orchard Falls of St. FtR^,oL . . . ' ' Chapel and Grotto at Ste. Anne De Beaupre Old Houses at Point L6vis .... Falls of Lokkeite ■ . . . Cap Rouge ..... Cape Diamond, from ,Si-. Romuald . Light-Ship on the .St. Lawrence . Half-Hreed Fisherman .... Interior of Parish Church .... Old Chimney and Chateau .... St. Maurice Forges .... Orioinai. Granite Cupola, Erected adout 1735 . Falls of the CiiAUDifeRE, near Quebec Shawen'aoan Falls • . . . . Head of Shawen.\gax Falls .... Little Shawenagan Falls .... A Glimpse from the Mountain In Cote de Neiges Cemetery ... l'escalier ...... Commissioner's Wharf, and Bonsecours Market BoNSF.couRs Church .... Market Scenes in Jacques Cartikr Square \ McC.iiL Sireet ..... Mountain Drive ..... Montreal, from the Mountain The Longueuil Ferry .... Montreal, from St. Helen's Island , ', ' The Island Park ■ ■ . . , Oi.D Batteky, St. Helen's Island . . \ . The Champ he Mars * • • • • Oi.D Presp.ytlrian Church From the Towers of Notre Dame . . ', . Entrance to Notre Dame ■ . . . . Pulpit of Notre Dame .... In the Chapel of Grey Nunnery Gateway of the Seminary of St. Sui.pice . Cnv Hall, and Nelson's Monument Ancient Towers at Montreal College Christ Church Cathedral, from Phillips' Square Steamer Passing Locks, and Unloading Ships hy Electric Light Transferring Freight dy Electric Light Montreal Harbour .... Montreal Winter Scenes NoTRK Dame from St. Urbain .Street In St. Gabriel Street .... Wood Barges ... Mail .Steamer Passing Under Victoria Bridge Unloading Hay Barges Artist. , T. Moran . L. R. O'Brien . L. R. O'Brien . L. R. O'Brien . L. R. O'Brien . L. R. O'Brien . F. B Schell . T. .Moran . F. B. Schell . . L. R. O'Brien . J. We.slon . L. R. O'Brien , L. R. O'Brien , L. R. O'Brien , L. R. O'Brien , W. RaplLiel . H. A. Ogdcn L. R. O'Brien , L. R. O'Brien L. K. O'Brien . L. R. O'Brien L. R. O'Brien . L. R. O'Brien L. R. O'Brii-n F. B. Schell F. B. Schell . F. B. Schell F. B. .Schell F. B. Schell . Schell & Hogan W. T. Smedley T. Moran F. B. Schell Schell & Hogan F. B. .Schell . F. B. Schell L. R. O'Brien F. B. .Schell F. li. Schell . F. B. Schell . W, T. Smedley W. T. Smedley W. T, Smedley W. T. Smedley F. B. Schell F. B. .Schell F B. Schell F. B. Schell . Schell & Hogan Schell & Hogan F. B. Schell F. B. Schell . .Schell & Hogan -Schell & Hogan F. B. Schell .Schell & Hogan Engraver, . E. C. Held . . H. E. .SchulU F. Ilrjgdcn . J. Clement . Smilhwick & French . J. Karst . H. Gray . . C. J. Warden . J. llellawcll . . A. Lockhardt . J. E. Sharp T. Johnson Juengling & Mille C. Schwarzburger R. \'arley George A. Bogert O. C. Wigand A. Hayman E. Heinemann E. Heinemann C. Ciillen R. Schelling , J. T. Speer , T, Johnson C. J, Warden C. J. Warden J. E. Sharp . C. Schwarzburger C. Schwarzburger J. Filmer Juengling & Miller Juengling & Miller W. H. Redding /vi George V. Snuth J. T. Speer . J. T. Speer A. Lockhardt W. Mollier . W. .Mollier . F. Levin R. A. Muller A, Hayman W, II. Redding W. 11. Redding K. C. Held . W. R. Bodenstab N. Orr & Co. Pagl. 69 71 74 76 .78 79 I'liciiii; 81 81 • 83 86 87 90 91 91 • 93 93 • 95 96 97 97 99 100 101 102 104 104 . 105 107 . 107 108 \23 125 • "25 126 127 . 129 R. Varley ... 131 J. I'. D.ivis . . ,34 N. Orr & Co. Facing 135 J. W. Lauderbach 135 N. Or,' & Co . 136 George F. Smith . . 137 W. H. Redding . 138 J. R. Gtraty ... 140 J. Hellawell ... 141 Pag,. 69 71 74 76 78 79 "A' 81 81 83 86 87 90 9' 9> 93 93 95 96 97 97 99 100 loi 102 104 104 105 107 107 108 109 "3 ■'5 ■15 116 116 117 "9 119 120 122 '23 '25 ■25 126 127 129 >3i '34 135 '35 '36 '37 '38 140 '4' QUEBEC. msrijKicAL KKv I i;\v. /'^UK work buj^ins with (jucbc". Riirhtly so. Caiuula has not much of a past, but ^^ all that it has from Jacques Cartier's day clusters rouiul that cannon-ifirt promon- tory ; not much of a present, but in takini,^ stock of national outfit, Quebec shuuUl count for somethiiiLj; — indei'd, woukl count with any pi,'0[)le. We ha\e a future, and with it that j^reat ri^d rock ami the retl-cross llai; that lloats over it are inseparably i)()und up. The jrlowinjT paijes of Parkman reveal how much can be made of our past. A son of the soil like Le Moint:, who has an hereilitary riji^ht to be animated by the i^ruiiis loci, whose Hoswell-like conscientiousness in chronicling everjthiu}^ connected with the sacred spot deserves all honourable mention, ina\' t'xatjirerate the importance of the city and the couiurv, its past and its [)resent. Hut truer far his e.xtreme — if e.xtreme it be — than X'oltaire's or La Pompadour's, and their successors' in our own day. The former tiiouL;iit i' ranee well rid of " tiftec'ii thousand acres of snow," with an appreciation of the subject lik(? unto his estimate of those "Jiii/s iiiiscrabhs" about whose literature the world was not likel\- to trouble itself much Ioniser when it could yet the writings of the b'rench I'liilosoplics instead. The latter heartily a,i;ri'ed with him, for — with Montcalm dead — "at last the KinLj will have a chance of sleepinjj in peace." To us it seems that the port which for a century and a half was the head-quarters of France in the New W'orkl, the door by which she entered antl which could be closed aijainst all others, the centre from which slie .limed at the conipiest of a xiryin continent of altogether unknown extent, 1 QUEBEC. and from whidi licr adventurous chililrcii set forlli loii_i,'-r()lH'd missionaries leading the way, trappers and soldiers t'ollowinj^- -until they iiail estal)lislu'd tliemselves at every strale,L;ie point on tile St. l>a\vrence, tin: (Ireat Lakes, tiie ( )liio, and tile Mississippi from tile l\ills of St. .Antliony to New Orleans, must always liavi: historical and poetic significance. The city and the Province whicii for the next hundred and twenty years have remained l'"ri:ncii in appearance and l'"rench to the core, yet have fon.L;ht repeatedly and are ready to tij^lit a<;ain side liy sidt' witli the red-coats of Cireat Britain —the best proof surely that men can .^dve of loyal iillegiance ;— which preserve old Norman and iireton customs and traits, and modes of thought and faith that the Revolution has sulMiv.'r<.jed in the France of their fore-fathers, fondly nursing; tlu' seventi'enth century in the lap of the nineteenth, must, perhaps beyond any other spot in North America, have ail interest for the artist and the statesman. In the sixteenth century the gallant l-'rancis 1. made seven attempts to L;iv(' iMance a share in that wonderful New World which Columbus hail disclosetl lo an unbelie\inL; generation, but like his attempt In other ilirections they came to nothing. In I5;i5 he put three little vessels under the orders of Jaccpies Cartier, a skilful na\ ii^alor. a i)ious and bravt; man. well worthy of the patent of nobility which h(r afterwards received, instrucl- ini; him to proceed \\\i the broad water-way he had discovered the year befon-, until he reached the Indies. His duties were to win new realms for Mother Church, as a compensation for those she was losing through Lutheran and Calvinistic heresies, and to bring back his schooners fidl of yellow goKl ami rosy pearls. Thus would his labour^ redound to the glory of God and the good of I'" ranee. Jacipies Cartier crossed the ocean and sailed up the magniticent water-way, piously giving to it the name ol the saint on whose fete-day he had hrst entered its wide-extinded portals. l"or hundreds ol miles the river kejjt its great breadth, more like a sea than a river, till the huge bluff of Quebc'c, seen from afar, appeared to close it abruptly against farther advance. \\\ means of this bluff thrust into the stream and the opposite point of Levis stretching out lo meet it, the view is actually narrowed to three (juarters of a mile. Coasting ii|) between the north shore and a large beautiful island, he came, on the r.itli of September, to the mouth of a little tributary, which he called the Ste. Croix, from the fete celebrated on that day. Hen- he cast anchor, for now Ine time had come to land .md make iiupiiries. It needed no pr()|ihet to tell that the power which held that dark red blul'f would liokl the kev to the country beyond. Tht- natives, with their chief 1 )onnac()na, jiaddled out in their birch-bark canoes to gaze upon the strange visitants who had— in great white-wingc-d castles — surely swooped down upon them from another world. Cartier treated them kindly. They willingly guided him through the primeval forest to their town on the banks of the little river, and to the summit of the rock under the shadow of whicli they had built their wigwams. What a landscape for an exjilorer to ga/e upon ! Shore and forest bathed in the mellow light of the September sun for fort) miles up and down both sides ol T QUHIiJiC. 3 tlif glorious stream ! Wcaltli ;reed for Janii e\en the boundless .spaces of the Xew ■4? AKK1\AI. UK JAtgUllS CAUril U W SIADACONA. World cannot satislw The s^round tiiat slojied down to the .Ste. Croix, at the mouth of which his vessels la\' at anchor, was covered witii the tinest hard-wt)od trees — walnuts, oaks, elms, ashes, and maples — and amon^; thesi' the hark-cibins oi Donnacona's tribe could be seen. i'hey called their town Stadacon.i. To this da\ no name is more popular with the people ol Ouebec. Any new enterjirise that may be projected, from a skating-rink to a bank or steamship conqjany, prefers .Stadacona to any other name. .All the way down to Cap Toiirmcnte and round the horizon formed by the fir-clothcd sinnmits of the Lanrentides that enclosed tlu' wide-e.\tended-landscape, an utdjroken forest ran^^ed. The picture, seen from the Citadel on Cape Diamond to-day, is as fair as the eye can desire to see. The sun shines on the olitteriniL,' roofs of (hiebec, and the continuous villaiL^c ol clean white houses extending; miles down to the white riband of QunnEC. Monlmorciuy, and on inillivati:il liijlils niniiiiijj; ii|) into still imhrokcii \vil(lcrm:ss, and on llic hroail rivt-r liasin isnclosin^ the island, in liic lorcst L;ladi's of wliiili wild ^rapi's j,frc\v so liixurianlh that CartitT enthusiastically called it Isle of Hacciiiis. liiit liicn it was in all its virf^in ^lory, and Cartier's soul swellcil with the emotions of a discoxcrer, with exidtation and hoiindless h(i|ic. I )id it not iHlonj; to him, did it not almost owe its existence to him ? And he was ;;ivinj,j it all to (iod and to !•' ranee, Donnacona told the; stranjjers of a I'.n j^reater town than his, many days' journey up the river. So Cartier placed his two larjjjest vessels within the mouth of tin; Ste, Croix, or the St. Charles, as the Kecollets calleil it in the next cenliu")', anil pursued his way, overcomin),f the obstacles of .St. Peter's I.ake, to llochelaj^a. The natives there received him as if he were a i;(h1, hrinijinn lish and corn-cakes, and tiirowini.; th<'m into the l)oats in such profusion that the)' sec nicil to lall throuL;!) tiu- air like rain or snow. Cartier coidd not help fallini^ in love with the countr)-. liu' palisaded town nestliiiL; under the shadow of .Mount Roval was surrouniled 1)_\ fertile liilds. .\nlumn showered its crimson antl jjold on the forests, tiirninj.^ the luoiuilain into an immense pictiuu' suspended hii;h in air, jjlowinj^ with a wealth of colour that no European painter woidd dare to |)ut on canva.s. The river swept on, two miles wide, with a conijueriniLj force that indicated vast distances lieyonii, new^ realms waitinj^ to he iliscoNcred. .\11 the wa\- hack to (_)u(l)ec the niar\ellous tints of tile forest, and the sweet air and rich sunsets of a Canadian autumn accompanied the iiappy I'Venchnien. 1 lad the_\- now turned their prows homewartl, wiiat pictures of the new country would they ha\c held u|) to wonderint; listeners! Nothinij; could ha\(! pre\cnted I'rance from |)recipitalinL;' itself at once u|ion Canada. But the natives, accustomed to the winters, uttered no note of warnintj to liie stranijers, antl therefore, althouL,di Cartier rejoined his comr.ules at Quebec on the iith of October, he delayed till the ice-kinj,^ issued his " nc exeat." Ihen he and they soon learned that the Ljolden shield had another side. To Canadians, winter is simply one of the four s('asons. The summer and autunui suns ripen all the crops that i^^row in Enjj;land or the north of l'"r,ince, and in no tem- perate climate is mortt than one crop a year expected. Tiii' frost and snow of winter are hailed in their turn, not onl)- as useful friends but as minist<'rs to almost all the amuse- ments of the year — the skn'^diinj;, skatinjr, snow-shoeing, icc-boaling, tobogganning that both sexes and all classes delight in. The frost does much of our subsoil ploughing. Snow is not onl)- the best possible niidch, shading and protecting the soil at no cost, but its manurial value gives it the name of "the poor man's manure." The ice bridges our lakes and rixi.'rs. .A good snow-fall means roatls without the trouiile of road-making, not only to kirk and niark(.'t, but through thick woods, over cradle-hills, and awa)- into tile lumber regions. An insufficient supply of snow and ice is a national calamit)- ; and excess can never be so bad as tin- ])all that covers l^ngland antl .Scotland half the \ear and makes the people " take their pleasures sadly." QVEIiEC, i Mill, wf arc prepared for winter. Jaccpies Carti»;r was not, ami vi'ry lu-avily its hami fell minn liiin, as ii did subseciuently on Cliamplain when In; first wintered at (Jucbec. ilow heavily, we are in a position to estimate from roadinj,' tlu; harrowinj,^ descriptions of the suffcrin),fs endured by the people of London in January iSSi, in consuquonci; of a snow-fall of some twelve inche's. One periodical describes the scene under the title of " Moscow in London," and soberly asserts that " to have lived in London on Tuesday, the iSth January, i.SSi, and to have survived the ( xperience, is something which any man is justified in remembering, and which ought to justify occasional boasting of the fact," Another declares that a few more such snow-storms would " render our life and civilization impossible;" that in such a case there could be only "an I';s(|uimau.\ life, not an I-lnglish life;" that "a transformation of the rain into thl'se soft white crystals which at first sight seem so mmh less aggressive than rain is all that is needed to destroy the whole struc- ture of our communications, whether in the way of railway, telegraph, or literature;" anil sadly moralises over the fact that this is sure to come about in time from the pre- cession of the e(|uinoxes. Mathos such as this indicates fairly enough the wonderful ignorance of the facts and conditions of Canadian life that reigns supreme in educated l^nglish circles. Canadians fancy that their civilization is English. Those of us who are practically nc(|uaint(-d with the conditions of life in Lngland are pretty well .igreed that where there ,\<-- 'wiints of difference the advantage is on our side. Not one man in a thousanti in Canada wears a fur coat, or an overcoat of any kind iiea\ ier than hi; would have to wear in the mother country. We have ice-houses, but do not live in them. Society shows no signs of approximating to the lisquimau.x type. We skim over the snow more rapidly than a four-in-hand can travel in luigland when the best highway is at its best. A simple contrivance calli'd a snow-plough clears the railway track for the trains, tossing the snow to the right and left as triumphantly as a ship tosses the spray from its bows. We telegraph and telephoiu-, use cabs and busses, and get our mails — from Halifax to Sarnia — witli "proofs" ,ind parcels about as regularly in winter as in summer. Incredible as all this must souiul to those who have shivered under the power of one snow-storm ami a few degrees of frost, there is a certain humiliation to a Canadian in describing what is so entirely a matter of course. He is kept from overmuch wonder by remembering that the people of Western Canada, in spite of jiractical acquaintance with snow-ploughs, opposed for years the construction of the Litercolonial Railway because they strenuously maintained that it would be blocked up all the winter with ice and snow. We are accustomed to our environment. Cartier's men were not ; and reference has been made to rt^cent experiences in England to help us to understand what horrors those poor fellows from sunny I'Vance endured throughout an apparently endless winter, cooped up ill the coldest spot in all Canada. " b'rom the middle of November to the i8th of April the ice and snow shut us in," says their captain. Ice increased upon ice. Snow fell upon snow. file great river that no power known to man could fetter, was bound fast. f-l - r* 6 (jU/iPI-C. livi-rylhin^' fro/c. The lucaili ili.ii (;unc finm ilicir mniiilis. llic vci) Mood in their veins, sfcimd to tnczc. Nij^iit iiiul (la\ lluir liml)s witc luniimhcii. I'hiik itc lormcti on tile siilcs ol tin ir sliips, on ilciks, masts, lonl.ij^i', on fvoscd ol the leaves and hark of the white spruce, lie administered the medicine without stint, ,ind in eii;ht da)s the sick wen- restored to health. .Anil now the lon^ ( ruel \\int<'r won: away. The ic\- fetters relaxed their i,'rip of l.iml and river. I'nder w.uiu .April suns the sap rose, thrilling the dead trees into life. .Amid the meltinjj snow, j;reen grasses and dainty star-like flowers s|)ran),r up as freely as in a hot-house. C'artier prepared to depart, first taking possession of Canaila, however, h)- planting in the fort "a beautiful cross" thirty-live feet high, with the arms of I'ranci; emhossed on the cross-piece, iiul this inscription, " Fruiiiiscis /'riiiiiis, /h/ x''<'^'<'< Fidiicoyum rex, rcffiiit/." I hell, tre.u'herously luiing !)onnacona on hoard ship, that he might present the King of Stadacona to the King of I'Vance, he set ; lil for .St. Malo. Nothing came of this, the second \())age of Carfier, ami little wouiler. What advant.ages diii Canada offi'r to induce men to leave home! What tales coulil the travellers tell save of black forests, deep snow, thick ice, starving Indians, and all-devouring scurvy! lUit C'artier was not discouraged, and six years afterwards I*'rancis resolved to try again. Roberval was commissioniil to found a permanent settlement. He .sent C'artier ahead and Cartier tried .it Cip Rouge, above Quebec, the Indians of Stadacona naturally enough not making him welcome, iiut the experiment did not succeed. The time had not come. Nearly a century was to pass away l>efore the true father of New h" ranee - the founder of Ouehec — would appi'ar. On the ;id of July, i6o,S, Samuel de Champlain planted the white flag of France on the site of ( Uiebec. The old village of Stadacona had disappeared, and there was no OIK! to dispute possession with the new comers. With characteristic jji-omptitude Cham- plain .set his men to work to cut down trees and saw them into lumber for building, to >lig drains and ditches, to pull up the wild grape-vines which abounded, to prepare the ground for g.irden seeds, or to attend to the commissariat, i'.very one had his work to do. 'Plu; winter tried him as it had tried L artier. The dreaded scurvy attacked his followers. Out of twenty-eight only eight survived, and these were disfigured with its fell marks, '{"he next year he decided to ally himself with the .Algoncpiins and llurons ag.iinst the I'"i\e Nations. It may luuf been im|iossible for him to ha\c remained neu- 8 QUEBEC. tral, though the example of the Dutch at Albany indicates that it was possible. Certainly the step plunged the infant colony into a sea of troubles for a centur)-. It took the sword and was again and again on the point of perishing by the tomahawk. This man Champlain, soldier, sailor, engineer, geographer, naturalist, statesman, with the heart and soul of a hero, was the founder of New I'rance. He had gaineil distinc- tion in the wars of the League ; in the West Indies he first jiroposed that ship canal across ihe Isthmus of I'anama which another Frenchman — as uncon(|uerable as he — is probably destined to construct ; and sub- sequently he had spent years exploring and attempting settlements around the rugged Atlantic shores of Acadie and Nt:w Mngland. From the day that he planted the lilies of France at the foot of Cape Diamond to the day of his death, on Christmas, 1635, he devoted himself to the infant colony, lived for it and kept it alive, in sj)ite of enemies at home and abroad, and dis- couragements enough to have shaken an\ resolve but that of courage founded upon faith. Right under the beetling cliff, be- tween the present Champlain Market and the cpiaint old-church of Notre Dame des Victoires, Champlain determined to build his city. His first work was to prepare the ground for garden seeds, and wheat and rye. He saw from the first, what he never could get any one else in authority to see, that the existence of the colony, as anything more than a temporary fur-tr.uling post, depended on its being able to raise its own food. The Company with which lie was associated could not see this, because they had gone into the enterprise with very different motives from those that animated Cham|)lain. When we have no (l"sire to see, we put the telescope to our blind eye and declare that there is nothing to be seen. Every creature acts according to it.; instincts, and to the rule fur-trading com])anies an- no exception. Give them a monopoly and instinct becomes consecrated by laws human and Divine. The welfare of the Company becomes the supreme law. y\t the beginning of this century the North-VV^est Company thought it right to stamp out in CnA.\II'l,.\IN. OUIUU'IC. iNOTKK JAM1-. I)i;S VK roiKi.s. Site i)f Original City. blood and fin; tlic patriotic efforts to colonize Assiniljoia made Jjy a Scottisii nnhlcman, wiio lived half a century before Ills liim;. Subsc- cuientlv the two hundred and si\t\-eijrht share- holtU )f the lludson's l!av C ()iiii);'.n\' felt justilit eepmi half a continent as a preserve for Imtfalo and heaver. llow could better thini^s be expectetl in the se\cn- )f De Chastes ir 1 )e Monls, the nicichaiits of St. teentli ceiUiny honi tlie inonopohcs t Mi Rouen, I )ieppe, i.a Rochelle even from the Company of the One lli 1 one am d I all. Associates oryani/.ed by Richelieu ? Tnulin^ interests were supreme wit Those who cl.imourt;d for free trade chimoured only for a share of the monopoly. The empire is perpetually at war, and the soldier gets the blame, perhaps the ;iristocracy, should Mr. Hrit^^ht be the si)e;iker ; but the real cul])rit is the trader. Our jealousy of Russia ami our little wars all the worUl over luive trade interests as their source :r lO QUEBEC. iind inspiration. In the seventeenth century, Canadian trad^' meant supplies to the Iniiians in e.\chany;e for peltries, and money spent on anythiiiL; else seemed to the One Hundred Associates ami tiieir servants money thrown awa)'. Not so thouijht Champlain. l'"ortunatei_\-, he was too indispensable a man to be recalletl, tlioujfh it was lei^itimatc to op[)ose, to check, to thwart his projects whenever they tlitl not |)romise tlirect returns lo tiie Company. Champlain aimed at fouiuliui.; an cmiiire, and ewry Ljreat em])ir(' must be based on farming. Therefore when, in 1617, \w brou_<;iit the erstwhile apotliecar)-, Louis llcbert, lo Quebec, he did more for tiie colony than when lie broutijht the Recollets and Jesuits to it. And let this be said witli no (.le[)reciation of the labours of the gray robes and black robes. Hebert was the first who gave himself up to the task of cultivating the soil in New France, and the tirst head of a family resident in the country who lived on what he cultivated. His son-in-law Couiliard walked in the same good path, the path tirst trodden by " tlie grand oitl gardener anil his wife." No matter how soldiers, sailors, fur-traders and priests might come and go, the farmer's ciiildren held on to the land, aiul tiieir descendants hold it still. They increased and multiplied so mightily tiiat tiiere are few I'rencii families of anv anti(piit\- in Canada who cannot trace their genealogy by .some link back to that of Louis Hebert. Hebert and Couiliard Streets, streets quainti.-r ami more e.xpressive of the seventeenth century than any to be seen now ni St. Malo, commemorate their names. One of their descendants informed th(^ writer that those streets rim where the first furrows were ploughed in Canada, prob- ably in the same way thai some of the streets in Boston an- saitl to mcamUr along the paths madi' b\- the cows of the I'irst inhabitants. Had others followetl 1 leberl's example the colony would not have been so long suspended between life anti death, and Cham- plain could h.ive held out against the Huguenot Kerkls in lOjq. Hut the Company, far from doing anything to encourage the few tillers of the ground, did everything to dis- courage them. All grain raised had to be sold at a price fixed by the Company, and the Company alone had the jiower of buying. Of course the Heberts and Couillards ought to ha\c been grateful that there was a Company to bu\-, for what could farmers do without a market ? Of Cham|)lain's labours it is unnecessar\- to speak at length. Twenty times he crossed the Atlantic to tight for his colon\-. though it was a greater undertaking to cross the Atlantic then than to go rouiul the world now. I h- ma)- be called the founder of .Mon- treal as V"ll as of Ouebec. I'"irst of i'luropeans he sailetl up the Richelieu, giving to the beautiful river the name of the Company's great patron. He discovered Lake Cham- plain. He tirst ascended the Ottawa, crossed to Lake Nipi.ssing, and came ilown by the valley of the Trent to what he called "the fresh wat(!r sea" of Ontario. He secured th(' alliance of all the Indi.in tribes the confederacy of the l''ive Nations exce|)ted -by treaties which lasted as long as the white tlag tloated over the castle of St. Louis, and QUEPkC. It wliicli laitl iIk; fotency of man's word on the souls of men, thus sketched his moral cjualities and ani.'/iny versatility: — "lie was hrave almost to rashness. He would cast himself with a sinijjle luiropean follower in tin; mitlst of savajre enemies, and more than once his life was endan- gered by the e.\cess of his confidence and his ccnirage. I li: was eminently social in his habits — witness his or- der of /(■ hoii Iciiips, in which every man of his associates was for one day host to all his comrades, He was sannuine, as became an adven- turer ; antl self-denyinir, as became a MOUNTAIN nil. I., I'loin IDJ) nf Htink-ncili St.lirs. hero. . . 1 le toiiclu-d the extremes of human cxperi- I'lice amoni; ili\'erse characters ,ind nations. tW. one time he sketched plans of ci\ili/t(l a,i;i,rrandi/iniciit for lUniy 1\'. and Richelieu; at another, he plannetl schemes of wild war- fare with Huron chiefs antl .AlgoiKjuin braves. He united in a most rare de^rree the faculties of action and ri'tlection. ami like all hiy;hly- re!lecti\-e minds, his thouiL^IUs. Ioiiil; cherishetl in secret, ran often into the moi'kl of max- ims, some ol which would form the fittest possible inscriptions to i)e eiiL;ra\-en upon his monument. \\'hen the merchants of 13 QUEBEC. \ ' i li *! t, Quebec grumbk'd at the cost of fortifying that place, lie said, ' It is best not to obey the passions of men ; tiu-y are i)iit for a season ; it is our tkity to regard the future.' With all iiis love of good-fellowship, he was, what sei-ins to sonu; inconsistent with it, sin- cerely and entiiusiastically religious. Among his ma.xims are the.se two — that 'the salvation of one soul is of more value than the conepiest of an empire;' and that 'kings ought not to think of extending their authority over idolatrous nations, except for the purpose of subjecting them to Jesus Christ.'" The one mistake made by Champlain has already been . irred to. He attacked the Iroipiois, whereas he should have conciliated them at any cost or remained neutral in all Indian wars. His mistake was not so mutii intellectual as moral. It was a crime and — /xta- Talleyrand — worse than a biumler. Mut it is not pleasant to refer to the errors of such a man. Well may Quebec commemorate his name and virtues. Let us not forget, when we walk along the quaint, narrow, crowded street that still bears his name, or clamber "Break-neck Stairs" from Little Champlain Street to reach Durham Terrace, where he built the Chateau of St. Louis and doubtless often gazed, with hope and pride in his eyes, on a scene like to which there are few on this earth, how much Canada owes to him ! Well for those who follow him where all may follow — in un- selfishness of purpose, in unflinching Nalour, and in continence of life. \o monument points out his last resting-place, for. strange to say, "of all b'rench governors interretl within the oucintc, he is the onl\- one of whosi; place of sepulture we are ignorant."* The registers of Quebec were destroyed in the great conflagration of 1640. Thus it hap|)ens that we have not the account of his burial. M. Dionne shows that in all probability the remains were first ilcposited in the chapel of \otre Dame de la Rccouvrancc ; then in a vault of masonry in the chapel built by his successor in the ( jovernorship, whence; they were removed by the authorities to the Masilica. Champlain needs no monument, least of all in Quebec. The city is his monument. Most religious Chiebec was from the first under the intUience of Champlain ; most religious is it in appearance to this day. There are churches though for a city with fi\e times th<; pntsent population. I"]cclesiastical establishments of one kind or another occup) the lion's share of tin- s|)ace within the walls. At every corner the soutancd ecclesiasti: meets you, moxing along (|uietly, with the confidence of owv. who knows that his foot is * " Ktuiles Ilistori(itifS," p.ir M. IJ^dn.nk. Now removed, i^uarded the appmach to the Upper Town by Mnuniaiii Hill. QUEBEC n on his native licatli. It was tin- same with tin- cities of France in the seventeenth cen- tury : but it is not so now. Thin^^s have changed there. The Revolution made the Old World New. In yuebec the New World clings to the garments of the Old. Champlain first inducc'd the Recollet friars to come to his aid. The Jesuits, then at the height of their power in I'rance, followed. The Company disliked missionaries almost as much as it disliked farmers. "They tolerated the poor RecoUets," says l-erland, "hut they dreaded the coming of tiu- Jesuits, who had powerful protectors at Court ami who could through them carry their comiilaints to the foot of the throne." Consequently, when the first detachment of Jesuits arrived they found <;very door shut against them, and if the Re- collets had not offered them hospitalitx they would have been obliged to return to France. Magnificent missionaries those first Jesuits were ; more devoted men never lived. The names especially of Charles LalhMiiant and Jean de Brebeuf are still sacred to thousands of French-Canadian Roman Catholics. Two things the Jesuits felt the colony must have —a school for the instruction of girls, and a hospital for the sick. These institutions they desired for tii<^ sak(' of the colonists, most of whom were poor, but still more for the sake of the Indians. The l-athcrs had 1. I France to convert the Indians; on that work tiieir hearts were set, and they gave themselves to it with a wistlom as great as their self-sacrifice. Protestant missionaries, as a class, are only now learning to imitate their methods of procedure, especiall\- with regard to the establishment of hospitals and the acquisition of .i perfect knowledge of the language and modes of thought of the people whose conxersion they seek. What Livingstone did in South Africa when he cut himself loose from all the other missionaries who kept within reach of the comforts of the colony, and plunged into the thick of the native tribes beyond; what the Canadian missionarx Mackay n at the hands of the Iroquois. The Company sat upon its agricultural and indus- trial development like the old man of the sea. In 1663 the population of New France consisted of only two thousand souls, scattereii along a thin I.rok.n line from Tadoussac to Montreal. Of this small total Quebec claimed Soo. At any moment a ru.le breath would have killed the colony, but now favouring gales came: from Old I-rance. Louis XIV. determinetl to suppress the Company, and bring Canada under his own direct authority. He constitutetl i)y direct appointment a Sovereign Connril to sit in Quebec, immediately responsible to himself, the principal functionaries to be the Governor-Gene- ral, the Royal Intendant, and the liishop, each to be a spy on the other two. The Governor-Cleneral believed hims.^lf to be the head of the colony; he formed the apex of the governmental pyramid. Hut the Intendant, wi,o was Chief of justice, Police. Finance, and Marine, understood that the King looked to him, and that the colony was in his hands, to be made or marred. The Bishop, again, knew that both Clovernor- General and Intendant would have to dance according as he pulled the wires at Court. Talon, the first Intendant who arrived in Quebec, was the ablest who ever held the position. Talon was a statesman, a pupil of Colbert, and in some respects in advance l6 (jUHJUiC. Iji of liis j^rcat master. He iiri^^cd immijfration as a means of cnsuriiii^ to France the pos- session of the New World. Colbert, uiili the wisilom of the seventeentli century, re|)lit'il that it would not be ijriidenl to deij()|)ulate the kin^^dom. " .Secure New \'ork," Talon ur^i'tl, "and the j^reat jjaine will be j^ained for I'" ranee." When that step was not taken he projected a road to Acadie, — wiiicii it was left to our da\', by the construction of the Intercolonial Railway, to carr\- out, and tiius to j^ive to Canaila intlispensahle winter ports, ile pushed disco\er)- in e\(r\ direction, selectiiiij; his men wilii marxcllous sai,racity. Under his tlirection, St. Simon and La Couture re.uhed lludson's \\a\ 1)\' tiie valii')' of the Saijuenay ; IVre Druilletes, the .Atlantic seaboard liy the Chaudiere and liie Ken- nebec; Perrot, the end of Lake Michij^MU and the entrance of Superior; Joliet and I'ere Marcjuetti', the father of waters down to the Arkansas. In Talon's day Ouebec rose from beinj.; a fur-tradin<,r |)ost into commercial importance, lie l)elie\-e(l in the country he iiatl been sent to govern, and was of opinion that a wise national jioiicy demaniled the i'ncouraihi)is were willintj to 'i\\^\\. as they did for the Kin^, am! that Montcalm was able to accomplish anythini^ with the commissariat Hij^^it |jrovidetl, are th(' wontlerful fads of the Con(pu;st of 1759. The In- tendant's house was b)- far the most e.xpensivc and most splendidl\- furnished in Ouebec, It was emphatically "The Palace," and the tjate nearest it was called the Palace Ciate, It stood outside the walls, — its principal entrance opjjosite the cliff on liie present line of St, Valier .Street, "untler the Arsenal;" while its spacious i^rounds, beautifully laid out in walks and gardens, extendiuLj over sevcrral acres, sloped down to the ri\er St. Ciiarles.* It is described in 169S as ha\iny a frontaj^^e of 480 feet, consisting- of the Ro\al store- house and other buildings, in adiiition to the Palace itself, so that it a|)|)eai-ed a little town. In 171^^ it was destro\(Hl i>y lire, but immeiliatel)' rebuilt in accordance with the French domestic style of the period, two storeys and a basement, as shown by sketches made by one of the officers of the tleet that accompanit'd Wolfe's e-xpinlition. Here, no matter what might be the poverty of th(; people, the Intendant surromuled himself with splendour. In Bigot's time (;very form of dissipation reigmd in the Palace; while tl'f * Siimniary of U)k ■■ History of tlu' Iiilenilaiit's I'alactt," l)y Ciiaki.i..-. \V.\l.K.r..M. Militia Ut-paitrneiit. QUEREC. J7 habitant, who lia\ ^iccording to it in 1876 solemn canonical honours by the Hull "inter I'arias solicilutiincs." From the opposite shore of Levis. Laval University, standing in the most commanding position in the upi)t--r town, towering to a height of fi\c storeys, is the most conspicuous buikling in Quebec. The American tourist takes it for the chief hotel of the ])lace, and congratulates himself that a child of the monster hotels he loves has found its way north of the line. When he finds that it is only a University, he visits it as a matter of course, looks at the librar)' and museum, n'mrirking casually on their inferiority to those in ;iny one of the four lumdretl and (nld Universities in the United .States, and comes out in a few minutes, likely enough without having gone to the roof to see one of the most glorious panoram.is in the New World. Here QVI'.lil'.C. 19 Al 1 111. (i.\l 1: 1 U l..\\ Al. I M\ 1 K>l 1 N he is. at thr sjjato. Hlessings on his serene, kindly sense of superiority to all men or thintjs in heaven or on eartli ! He has seen nothing that can compare for a moment with SliclvvilU-. I'Jii^iishnu'n, I'Venchmen, Sisters, students, Canadian soldiers, civilians, are round about, Iiut he alone is monarch of all he surveys. A strange sight arrests his attention. Young Canada, cap in hand, cap actually off his head, and 20 Qunnnc } ' 3 I y licad reverently howetl while a priest speaks a V\\\A wonl or pcrliaps ;^ives his blessing ! Tiiis is soint'tiiinji new, and he is too j^ooii an uliscrvcr not to make a nol<' of it, con^jratiihitin^ liiinself at the same time that lie is willing,' to make allowances. Is it not his " s|)ecialty," as John Riiskin hath it, "his one yift to the race — to sliow men how not to worship?" A Canadian may be pardoned for calling; attention to the sij,Miiricance of the ^Tant, l)y the British (iovernment, of a Royal Charter to Laval University. The trust in an hirrarchy that the peo|)le trust, illustrtttes the fundamental princii)le of its policy in Canada. No matter what the (juestion, so lonj,' as it is not inconsistent with the Queen's supremacy, Canada is jjoverned in accordance with the constitutionally expressed wishes of the people of I'ach l'rovinc:e. The success which has ;itteiuled the frank acceptance of this principle sujjj^ests tin; only possible solution of that Irish Question which still baffles statesmen. What has worked like a charm here ou,i;lu to work in another part of the Lmpiri;. Here, we have a million of people (ip|)()seil in race, religion, character and historical associations to the majority of Canadians, a peo])le whose forefathers foujj;ht linj^land for a century and a half on the soil on which the children are now livinjf;— a Celtic people, massed toj,rether in one Province, a people proud, sensitive, submissive to their priests, and not very well educated ;- this people half a centur)- a^o badj,'ered every Governor that Hrit.iin sent out, stopiied the supplies, embarrassed authority, and at last broke; out into ojicn reliellion. Now, they are peaceable, contented, pros|)erous. They co-operate for .ill i)urposes of i^ootl i,f()\i'rn- ment with the other Provinces, ilo no intentional injustice to tlu! Protestant minority of their own Province, and are so heartily loyal to the central authority that it has become almost an unwritten law to select the Minister of W'ar from their representatives in Parliament. Let him who runs read, and read, too, the answer of D'.Xrcy McCii-e to those who wondered that the younij rebel in Irelaml should be: the mature ardent admirer of Hritish government in Canada: "If in my da)' Ireland had been >j;overned as Canada is now governed, I would have been as sound a constitutionalist as is to be found in Irt^land." The best thing Louis XI\'. did for Quebec was the sending to it of the regi- ment of Carignan-Salitres. A few companies of veterans, led by Canadian blue-coats, penetrateil by the Richelieu to the lairs of the Iroquois, and struck such terror into them that the colony was thenceforth allowed to breathe and to grow. .Still better, when the regiment was disbanded, most of the soldiiirs remained, and many of the picturesque towns and villages that have grown up along the Richelieu and St. Lawrence owe their names to the officers, to whom large .-ieignorial rights were given by the King on condition of their settling in the colony. From these veterans sprang a race as adventurous and intrepid as ever lived. Their exploits as salt-water and fresh-water sailors, as coHrciirs ois, discoverers, soldiers regular and QUIiliHC. i\ irrt'^jiilar, lill m.iny a |)a.i;i' ol old Canailian liistory. Wlictlicr with the );allaiU l)r()tlii:rs L«: Moync, ilcfciulin^; Oiit'lxr a),Minst Sir William riiipiis, or striking It-rror into New N'oriv and New I'in^daiul l>y swift forays such as llcrtcl ilc Roiivillc led; or with I )ii Lliiii .\\\y\ 1 )ur,iiUa)f, lircakiiii; loose from the strait -jai;kfl in whirli Ko)al In- tendants imprisoned the colony, and ai)andoninjr themselves to the savajje freeilom of western fort and forest life; or luuler D'Hierville, most celebrated of the seven sons of Charles |,e Moyne, sweepinjf the iui^jlish llajr from Newfoundland and Hudson's Ha)' or coIoni/inj,f Louisiana; or with Jumonville and his I)rt)ther on the Oiiio, lU;- featinj^r W'ashinj^'ton and liraddock ; or vainly contjuerinj^^ at I'Ort William Henry and Carillon and Montmorency and Ste. I'oye, — the pictun; is always full of life anil colour. Whatever islse may fail, valour and tlevotion to tlu' Kin^f ni \cr fail. W^- tind the dare-devil courau" ioined with the j^aiety of heart and reatly accommodation to cir- cumstances that the I'renchman popular, alike with friendly savatjes and civil- izeil foemen, in , irts ol the world. Canadian experiences developed in tin- old I'rench stock new >ju.ilities, j^ood and liad, the l;ooi1 predominalinj^. X'l'rsed in all kinds of woodcraft, handlinj^ an a.\e as a modern tourist handk^s a tooth-pick, manaj^inj.; a canoe like Indians, inureil to tlu! climate, sujjplyinj^f tlu:mselves on the march with lood from forest or ri\cr and cookini; it in the nuist approved style, fearing neither frost nor ice, depth of snow nor di'pth of muskeg, indf'pendent of roads, — such men needed only a leader who umlerstood them to j;(> anywhere into \\\v. untrodden depths of the New World, and to do anythiui^ that man could ilo. Such a leader they found in l.ouis de Huade, Comple ile I'alleau et de I'rontcnac. Huatle .Street recalls his name, and there is little else in the olil cit)' that does, thouL,di yuebec loved him well in his ilay. Talon had done all that man coidd do to develop the infant colon_\- \i\ ine.ins of a national ])olic\ ihat stimulatetl iiulustr)', and an immi- gration policy, wise ami \ii;()rous cnoui^h, as far as his appe.ils to the King and Colbert went, for the nineteenth century. Anotlu'r man was nieded t) enable the thin lint! of colonists to make lu-atl against the formidable Irocpiois, backed as they were by the |)uuli and I'.nglish of New \'ork. .ind against the citizen sailors anil soldiers of New England; to direct their energit^s to the (ireal West; to make tlu-m feel that the power of I'Vance was with them, no matter how far the)- wandered from Quebec; and to ins|)ire them with the thought that the whole unbounded con- tinent was theirs by right. -Such a man was I'rontenac. Of his quarrels with intendants and clergy it would be a waste of time to speak. To defend him from the accusations made against his honour is unnecessary. 1 low coidd quarrels be avoided where three officials lived, each having some reason to believe, in accordance with the profound state-craft of the Old Regime, that he was the supreme ruler! l*"rontenac was titidar head, and he would be the real head. Neither bishops nor inti'udants should rule in his da\-. anil the) did not. and could not. They could worr)- him and i^ven .secure ' 'ill 2i QVF.nEC. \y his recall, Init llu-y could not tjovcrn the colony when they yot the chance. I'Vontenac had to be sent back to his post, and the universal joy with which the people re- ceived him showed that, as usual, the people overlook irritabilities and shortcom- ings, and discern the man. " He would have been a great prince if heaven had ])lac('il him on a throne," says Charlevoi.v. The good Jesuit forgets that I'ron- tenac was the only man who sought to ascertain by a'icicnt legitimate methods the vijws of all classes of the people, and that as Quebec was shut out from communication with the throne for half the year, the Ciovernor hail to act as a king or to see the countr\' without a head, b'ronte- nac understood the great game that was being plajei! for the sovereignty of liiis continent. lie liad almost boundless inllu- ence over the Indians, because he appreciated them, and in his HlADi; STREET. N.iiihhI aftLT Frontenac. heart of hearts was one of themselves. No one understood so well what Indians were fitted to do in the wild warfare that the situation demanded. At t!ie time of his death all signs betokened that France was to dominate the New World. The treaties Champlain had made with the Indians held good. The tribes farther west had allied QUHIiHC. 23 themselves with the French. At every strategic ijoint ti'.e whit(! Hag witli tlic J/ciirs dc lis lloated over a rude fort. The St. Lawrence was linketl by hues of military comnuini- cation with the Gulf of Mexico. Quebec had proud- ly built the church of Notre I^ame de la \'icloire to commemorate the defeat of New l^igland, and the power of the terrible Iroquois had been so broken that they could no longer threaten the existence of the colony. In spite of I'rontenac, it was not to l)e as the signs indicated. In spite of Montcalm's victories it was not to be. History was again to pro\e tliat in a contest between peace aiul war, between steady industry and dashing forays, between the farmer and the ■" , soldier, the former is sure to win in the long run. I he corruptions of the Court of France had to do witl the issue remotely. Higot and his \i!e nitouras;c had to do with it immeiiiateiy. Hut by no pvassibiiity coidd sixty thousa.id poor, uneducated Canadians continue to resist the ever-increasing weight of twenty or tliirtv times their number of thrifty, intelligent neighbours. Wolfe might have been defeated on the Plains of .Abraham. WW- we tiiink of Mont- calm's military genius, the victories gained by him against heavy odds in previous campaigns, and his defeat of Wolfe's grenadiers a few weeks V^ before the fina! struggle, our wonder indeed is that the Hritish were not hurled over those steep cliffs they had so painfully clambered up 011 that memorable 9i| !. till III 24 QUEBEC. p 1' !'■ early September inornini,^. Scotchmen attributed tlie result to those men " in the garb of old Ciaul, witii the fire of old Rome," wliom the British Ciovcrnment had been wise enough to organize into regiments out of the clans who a few years before had marched victoriously from tlu'ir owi'. northern glens into the heart of I'-ng- land. And Wolfe, had he lived, would probably have agreed with lluni. bOr, when he told the grenadiers, after their defeat, that, if they had suppost'd that they alone could beat the French army, he hoped they had foiunl out their mistake, his tone indicated a boundless contiilence in his Highlanders more llatlering than any eulogy. Hut the most irowning \ ictory for Montcalm would onl)' ha\c dehucd the inevitable.- Other armies were conxirging towards Quebec. .And liehind the armies was a population, already counting itself Ijy millions, determined on the destruction of that nest on the nortlurn rock whence hornets were ever issuing to sting and madden. Xo one understood the actual state of affairs better than Montcalm. He knew that brance had i)racticall\' aliandoned Canada, and' left liim to make the best tight he could for his own honour against hopi-less odds. Hence that ])recipital(' attack on Wolfe, for whicJi he has Ijeen censured. He knew that ever\' hour's ik-la\' wouKl increase Wolfe's relative strength. Hence, too, thai abandonment of the whole cause, after the battle, for which he has been censured still more severely. " 1 will neither give orders nor interfere any further," he e.xclaimed with emotion, when urgeil to issue instructions about the defence of tin- city. \\v had done all that man could do. He had sealed his loyalty with his blood. And now, seeing that the stars in their courses were fighting against the cause he luul so gallanll\ u|)held. anil that llu' issue was i)re-detormined, he would take no more- resp> •isiliilit\. He knew, too, that his best a\-engers would be found in the ranks of his ei -mies ; that Britain in crushing b'rench i)ower in its seat of strength in .\uuriia, w, oxcrreaching hersi'lf, .md jire- paring a loss out of all proportion to the present gain. He a|)iireci,itetl the " Hostonnais ; " predicting that they would never submit to an island thousands of miles awa\- wIumi they controlled the continent, whereas they would have remained loyal if a hostile power held the St. Lawrence and the Lak(-s. Was he not right? .And hail not I'ilt and Wolfe, then, as much to do with bringing about the separation of the Thirteen States from the mother country, as branklin and Washington? The story of the campaigns of 1759-60 need not be told here. Every incident is faniiliar to tlu' traditional school-boy. Every tourist is sure to visit Wolfe's Cove for himself, and to ascend the heights called after the old Scottish pilot "Abraham" Martin. No sign of war now. Rafts of timl)er in the Cove, and ships from all waters to carry it away, insleail of boats crowded with rugged Highlanders silent as the grave. No trouble apprehendeil by any ont;, except from steveilores whose right it is to dictate terms to commerce and orc.isionally to throw the city into a state of siege. No precipice ndw, the face of which must be scaled on hands and knees. .A pleasant QUEBRC. 25 road leads to the Plains, and )on antl your ]iart)' can dri\o leisurcl)- up. There, before you, a'^ross the common, is the modest column that tells where Wolfe "died victorious." Between it and the Citadel are Martello towers, di_t,fj;;inij near one of which some \ears a^o, skeletons were found, anil militar)- buttons and buckles, the dreary pledj^es, held by battle-fields, of human valour and cU-votion ami all the pomp and circumstance of war. ^'ou must tlrive into the city to see the monument that commemorates the joint ylory of Montcalm and Wolfe ; and out attain, to see the third monument, sacred to the memory of the braves who, under the skilful De Levis, uselessly- aven<^ed at Ste. I-'oye the defeat of Montcalm. The red-cross (laij floated over the Chateau of St. Louis, and New I'"ni;lantl jjave l)\ I Kl.i K)KIN(. SI. 11IAK1.1;S NAl.l.l.V. liianks. I'ifleen \ears passed away, ,incl Montcalm's pi->'(iiction was fulfilled. The •• Hostonnais" were in P'volt. Wise with tlie leaihini; of more than a century, they at the outset determined to secure the .St. Lawrence; and tiny would have succeeded, iiad it not been for the same stroni; rock of Quebec whiih had loileil them SI) often in the old colonial da\s. Arnold achanced tlirf)u^li the roadless wiitlerness of Maine, defyint; swamps, forests, and innumiTable pri\;itions as hardil\ as t^ver did the old Canatlian iio/'hssc when they raided the xiilai^cs and forts of Maine. Montgomery swept the British _L;arrisons fi-om the Richelieu and Monlrt'al, and jnined Arnokl at the ap|)ointed rendezvous. Their success must iiave astonished themselves. The explanation is that tin; colony had no s^'arrisons to speak of. and tiiai tiie 1 rtMuh Canadians felt that the (piarrel w;is none of their makini^. In a month all C ana('a —Quebec excepted had been j^^ained for Congress ; ,and tiiere was no i^.irrison in (Jueb'.'c capable of resistiiiLJ the combined forces that Arnold and MontL;omer\' led. But CiU\' Carleton reached Quebec, and another proof was given to the world that one man may be e(|iial to a g.arrison. In a fiw days he had breathed his own sjiiril into the militia, I 36 QUEBEC. f r ()\I.KI.OOKIN(i NOklll ( II.WNKI.. I'rom (Irand lUtlcry and I.aval L'niversily. nativi- Canadians as well as British liorn. The invaders established themselves in the Intt;ndant's I'alace and other houses near the walls, and after a month's siej^e made a resoluic atlcmiit to lake the city hy storm. Whatever may have been the result of a more precipitate attack, the delay unquestionably afforded greater advantages QUEBEC. 27 to the besieged than to the besiegers. Mont- gomery set out from Wolfe's Cove and crept along the narrow patiuvay now Icnown as Cham- plain Street. ArnoKl advanced from the oppo- site direction. Ills intention was to force his way round by what is now St. Roch's suburbs, belov/ the ramparts, and under the cliff at present crowned by Laval University and the Grand Battery, and to meet Montgomery at the foot of Mountain Mill, when their united forces would endeavour to gain the upper town. Not the first fraction of the plan, on the one sitle or the othci, succeeded. Arnold's men were surrounded anil captured. Montgomery, marching in the gra\- dawn through a heavy snow - storm, came upon a battery that blocked U|) the harrow pathway. He lushed forward, hoping to take it by surprise ; but the gunners were on the alert, and the tirst discharge swept him and the head of his column, maimed or dead, into the tleep white snow or over' the bank. The snow- continued to fall. quietly effacing all MARl Kl.l.O ri)Wl;K. On tlu' riains nf Abraham. signs of the conflict. A few hours after, Montgomery's body was found lying in the snow, stark and stiff, and was carried to a small log-house in St. Louis Street. No more gallant soldier fell in the Revolutionary War. Nothing now could be done even by the daring Arnold, though he lingered till spring. One whiff of grape-shot had decided that Congress must needs leave its ancient foi' to itself, 11 f 1 \ 1 • 38 QUEliHC. to work (lilt its tlestiiiies in connection witii tiiat British lunpirt; which it had so long defied. That decision has ruled events ever since. From that day to this, constitutional questions have occupied the attention of the Canadian people, instead of military ambition and tilt; _L;aine of war. No such questions could emerge under the Old Rdgime. Consti- tutional development was then impossible. The fundamental principle of the Old Regime was that the sjiiritual and the civil powers ruled all subjects by Divine right, and therefore that the first and last iluty of govern- ment was to train the pe.i,jle under a long line of absolute functionaries^ re- ligious and civil, to obey the powers that be. A demaiul for representative institutions could hardl) be e.xpected to come in those circumstances from the French Canadians. Their ambition extended no further than tiie hope that they might be governed economically, on a hard-money basis, ami according to their own traditions. Their relation to the land, their disposition, habits and training, their unquenchable Celtic love for their language, laws and re- ligion, made them eminently conserva- tive. From the day the Ikitish llag floated over their heads, they came into the possession of rights and |)rivileges of which their fathers had never dreamed. The contrast between their condition under Great Britain with what it had been under France, could not be descriijed more forcibly than it was by Papineau in the year 1820 on the hustings of Montreal: — "Then — under France — trade was monopolised by privileged Companies, public and private property often pillaged, and the inhabitants dragged year after year from their homes and families to shed their blood, from the shores of the (ireat Lakes, from the banks of the Mississippi and the Ohio, to Nova .Scotia, Newfoundland, and Hudson's Bay. Now, religious toleration, trial by jury, the aci of Habeas Corpus, afford legal and equal security to all, and we need submit to no other laws but those of our own making. All these advantages have become our birthright, and shall, I hope, be the lasting inheritanct; of our posterity." But a ilisturbing element had gradually worked its way among the liahitans, in the form of merchants, ofificials, and other British residents in the cities, and United limpire Loyalists from the States, and disbamlcd soldiers, to whom grants of land had been made in various parts of the Province, and es|)eciall\ in the eastern townships. P>om this minority 11UUS1-: TO \\ III! H MUN KlOMl.KVS H01>V WAS CAKKIKU. QUIUUiC. 29 came the first clenuiiul for larj^cr liberty. These men of British antecedents felt that they could nol and would not tolerate military sway or civil absolutism. They demanded, and they taujjht the Gallo-Canadians to demand, the rij^hts of free men. At the same time, immijjration began to flow into that western part of Canada, now called tlie Province of Ontario. It could easily be foreseen that this western i)art would continue to receive a population essentially different from that of Eastern or Lower Canada. A wise statesmanship resolved to allow the Eastern and Western sections to develop according to their own sentiments, and to give to all Canada a constitution modelled, as far as the circumstances of the age and country permitted, on the Hritish Constitution. To secure these objects, Mr. Pitt passed the Act of 1791 — an Act that well deserves the name, subsequently given to it, of the first " M.igna Charta of Canadian freedom." The bill divided the ancient " Province of Quebec" into two distinct colonies, imder tlu' names of Upper and Lower Canada, each section to have a separate elective Assembly. Fo,\ strenuously opposed tin- division of Canada. " It would be wiser," he said, " to unite still more closely the two races than separate them." Hurke lent the weight of political philosophy to the practical statesmanship of Pitt. " I'or us to attempt to amalgamate two populations composed of races of men diverse in language, laws and habitudes, is a complete absurdity," he warmly argued. Pitt's policy combined all that was valuable in the arguimiUs of both l'"o.\ and Burke. It was designetl to accomplish all that is now accomplished, according to the spirit as well as the forms of the Britisii Constitution, by that federal system untler which we are happily living. In orilcr to make the Act of 1791 successful, only fair play was retjuired, or a disposition on the part of thi leaders of the people to accept it loyally. All constitutions require that as the condition of success. Under Pitt's Act the bounds of freedom could have been widened gradually and peacefully. But it did not get fair play in Lower Canada, from either the rcjjre- sentatives of the minority or of the majority of the people. The minority had clamoured for representative institutions. They got them, and then made the discovery that the gift implied the government of the country, not according to thei/ wishes, but according to the wishes of the great body of the people. Naturally enough, the)- then fell back on the Legislative Ct)uncil, holding that it should be compo:; <\ of men of British race only or their sympathisers, and that the Executive should be guided not by the representative Chamber, but by the Divinely-appointed Council. On the other hand, the representatives of the majority soon awoke to understand the power of the weapon that had been put into their hands. When they did understand, there was no end to their delight in the use of the weapon. A boy is ready to use his first jack-knife or hatchet on anything and everything. So they acted, as if their new weapon could not be used too much. As with their countrymen in Old France, tluii logical powers interfered with their success in the practical work of government. They were slow to learn that life is broader than logic, ami that free institutions are possible only by the 30 QUEBEC. \\l practice of mutual forliearanct; towards each other of the different bodies amonjj whom the supreme power is tiistributed. Still, the measure of constitutional freedom that had been generously bestowed had its legitimate effect on the l-'rench-Canadians. They learned to appeal to British precedents, and a love of Hritish institutions began to take possession of their minds. Nothing demonstrates this more satisfactorily than the con- trast between their inaction during 1775-6, and their united and hearty action during the war of 181J-15. That war, which may be regarded as an episode in the constitutional history we are sketching, teaches to all who are willing to be taught several important lessons. It showed that French-Canadians had not forgotten how to fight, and that ac- cording as they were trusted so would they fight. No better illustration can be given than Chdteauguay, where Colonel de Salaberry with 300 Canadian militiamen ami a few Highlanders victoriously drove back an army -jooo strong. The Canadians everywhere Hew to arms, in a (juarrel, too, with the bringing on of which they had nothing to do. The Governor sent the regular troops to the frontiers, and confided the guardianship of Quebec to the city militia, while men like Bedard who had been accused of " treason," because they understood the spirit of the Constitution better than their accusers, were appointed officers. Successive campaigns proved, not onl)- that Canada was unconquer- able — even against a people then forty times as numerous — because of the spirit of its people, its glorious winters, ami northern fastnesses, but also because an unprovoked war upon Canada will never command the united support of the people of the States. When the war was declared in i,Si2, several of the New England States refused their quotas of militia. The Legislature of Maryland declared that they had acted constitutionally in refusing. .And all over New England secession was seriously threatened. What happened then would occur again, under other forms, if an effort were made to conquer four or five millions of Canadians, in order to make them citizens of free States. Should either political party propose it, that party would seal its own ruin. A great Christian people will struggle unitedly and religiously to free millions, never to subdue millions. Should momentary madness drive them to attempt the commission of the crime, the consequence would more likely be the disruption of the Republic than the concpiest of Canada. So much the episode of 181 2-15 teaches, read in the light of the present day. When the war was over, the struggles for constitutional development were resumed. Complicated in Lower Canada by misunderstandings of race, they broke out in " the troubles" or sputterings of rebellion of 1S37-38. The forcible reunion of the tv/o Canadas in 1840 was a temporar) measure, necessitated probably by those troubles. It led to friction, irritations, a necessity for double majorities, and perpetual deadlocks. Did not Pitt in 1791 foresee these as the sure results in the long run of any such union, beautiful in its simplicity though it appears to doctrinaires ? The confederation of British- America in 1867 put an end to the paralysis, by the adoption of the federal principle, jii li 11 QUEBEC. 31 and the ordained extension t)f C;in;ul;i to its natural boundaries of three oceans on three sides and the watershed of the American continent on the fourth. I'ull self-government having now been attained our position is no lon^'er colonial. What, then, is our destiny to be? Whatever (iod wills. The only points clear as sunlij^ht to us as a people are, that Canada is free-, antl that we dare not l)r(!ak up the unity of the grandest i'^nipire the world has ever known, .\nne.\ation has been advocated, but no one has proved that such a change would be, eve-n commercially, to our advantage. We would get closer to fifty and be removeil farther from two hundred millions. Politically, Canada would cease to e.xist. She would serve merely as a maki:-weight to the Republican or Democratic party. The l-'rcMich-Canadian element, so great a factor actually and potentially in our national life, would become a nullity. We would surrender all hopes of a distinctive future. Strangers would rule over us; for we are loo weak to resist tin; ali(;n forces, and too strong to be readily assimilateil. Our neighijours are a great people. So are the I'Vench ami the (iermans. Hut H(,'igium iloes not ])ray to be absorbed into 1'" ranee, and Holland would not consent to be anne.xed to (u'riiiany. Locking at the ([uestion in the light of the past and with foresight of the fulurt;, and from the point of view of all the higher considc-rations that • sway men, we s.i)-, in the emphatic language of Scripture, " It is a shame evi'U to sptak " of such a thing. We would repent it only once, and that would be forever. Their ways are not our ways ; their thoughts, traditions, history, arc not our thoughts, traditions, history. The occa- sional cry for Independence is more lionourable ; but, to break our national continuity in cold blood, to cut ourselves loose from the capital and centre of our strengtii ! to gain — what ? A thousand possibilities of danger, and not an atom of atkled strength. What, then, are we to do? "Things cannot remain as they are," we are toKl. Who says that they can ? They have been changing every decade. The future will l)ring changes with it, and wisdom too, let us liope, such as our falliers had, to enable us to do our duty in the premises. In the meantime, we have enough to do. We ha\-e to simplify the machinery of our government, to make it less absurdly expensive, and to disembarrass it of patronage. We have to put an emphatic sto[) to the increase of the; public debt. We have to reclaim half a continent, and throw iloors widi; open that millions may enter in. We have to grow wiser and better. We have to guard our own heads while we seek to ilo our duty to our day and generation. Is not that work enough for the next half century ? No one is likely to interfere with us, but we are not thereby absolved from the responsibility of kn ping up the defences of Halifax and Quebec, and fortifying Montreal by a cincture of detached forts. These cities safe, Canada might be invaded, but could not be held. Mut wliat need of defence, when we are assured that "our best defence is no defence." Go to the mayors of our cities and bid them dismiss the police. Tell bankers not to keep revolvers, and householders to poison their watch -dogs. .'\t one stroke we save what we are expending on all the old- 32 Quniiiic. fashiitiu'd arraii^H'munts of thi- Hark ,\j;ton," in the liarlmiir of : ii' lit Till. ("ITAUl I.. I'nmi H. M. S. " Nnrlluiinjiton." yuL'buc. Come on board, and from tlic (]uartcr-dfck ' taki- a \ icw of the j^^rand old storied rock. Whose money Imilt that \ast Citadel that crowns its strength ? Who j^^axc us those mighty batteries on the Le\is hei;,dus opposite ? What en<'my on this jilanet could taki; Quebec as lont^ as the "Northampton" jiledii^es to us the command of the sea? And for answer, a charmer sa\s, \<)u would be far stronger, without the forts and without the " Northampton !" Quebec: PICTURIiSyUH AM) UESCRII'TIVE. VIKW 1 K(lM nil: ()I.I> MANOK IKJUSK AT Bl'.AL'l'OK 1. QUEBI'X — the spot wIkm'o tile most rcfiiKHl civili/ation of the C)kl World first touched the Iiarharic \\il(hiess of tlie New — is also tlic s|)ot where tlie larj^est share of the pictures(Hif ami romantic cleim-nt has i^fathcred round tin; outlines of a (jrand though nigjjed nature. It would seem as if those early heroes, the flower of l'"ranc(!'s chivalry, 34 QUEJiHC. who coiKiuert'tl a new roimtry fnun a savage climate and a savaj,'*- race, h.id iinjirrssL'il the features of their natioiiaiit)' on this rock fortrt-ss forever. Ma)' (Jiiehec always retain its I'Vench iiliosyncrasy ! The shad(!s of its hravt; founders claim liiis as their rij^ht. I'Vom i)iain and I, aval down to I )(• I .('^vis and Montcalm. lhc\ deserve this monunient tc. loir efforts to l)uild up ami preserve a "New I'Vance" in this westi^rn world ; and Wolfe for one would not have j;rud^'ed that the memory of his ^rallant foe should iiere be rlosely entwineil with his own. .\!1 who know the value of tin; minj;lin^; of diverse elements in enriching national life, will rejoici; in the pn^serxalion amonj.j us of a distinctly I'rench element, blendiny liarmoniously in our Canadian nationality. "Saxnn ami Celt .mil Ni>rni.in ari' wp ; " P and we may well he jirouil of havinj^ within our borders a "New I'rance: " as well as a " Greater Britain." Imafjination could hardly have devised a nobler portal to tiie Dominion than the mile-wide stra on one side of which rise the j^reen heij^hls of l.i^vis, and on tin other the bold, ab 'Utlines of Cape Diamond. To the traveller from tli Old World who first drops anci. . under those dark rocks and frowninj.; ram|)arts, the co ' il'ivil must pre- sent an impressive frontispiece to tile unread \()lume. The outlines of ih ocky ram art and its crowning fortress, as seen from a distance, recall both Stirlini,^ and l.iii '•ni)reitsirin, while its aspect as viewed from the foot of the time-worn, steep-roofed old houses that skirt the heijjht, carries at least a sus^^estion of Kdinburjfh Castle from the tirassmarket. To the home-bred Canadian, comimj; from the llat regions of Central Canad.i 1)\' the train that skirts the southern shore- and sudilenly funis its way alon,i( tlu' abrupt, wooded heijrhts that end in Point Lt^vis, with cpiaint steej) ^abled and balconied b'rench houses climbin^r the rocky ledi^es to the riLjIit. and alfordiiiLj to curious passenjjjers. throuj^h ojicii doors and windows, many a iiaiAc j^rlimpse of the simple domestic life ol the habilatis, the first sijijht of Quebec from the terminus or tin; ferry station is a n;\c'lalion. It is the realization of dim. hovirin;;- \isions conjured u|) by the literature of other lands more rich in the |jicturesf]ue element born of anticpiity and historical association. < )n our Republican neij^hbours. the effect produced is the same. Ouebec has no more enthusiastic athnirers than its hosts of American visitors ; and no writers have more \ ividly and appreciatively described its peculiar charm than Parkman and llowells. Lookinjj at Ouebec first from the opposite heii(hts of l.('\i^. and then passing; slowly across from shore to shore, the strikinjj; featurc-s of the cil\' and its sur- roundinjrs come ^railually into \ic;w, in a m.inner doubly enc'hantin*,^ jf it happens to be a soft, misty summer mornini;. .\t first, the dim, luij;e mass oi tlu- rock and Citadel, — seeminjjjly one <^rand fortification, absorbs the allc-niion. Then the details come out, one after another. The firm lines of rampart and b.istion, the QUIiliHC: HcrURIiSQUE AND DliSCRinTllH. 35 shclvlnjj^ outlines of the rock, Diiffcrin rcrnuc willi its ii.Ljiu I>a\ili()ns, tlic slope of Mountain liill. the Grand Matlerv-. tlie eon- spieuoiis pile of l.aval I'niversit), tile (lark serrieil mass of houses clusterini:,^ alonj; the foot of the rocks and risini; i^radualU' \\\i the gentler incline into which these fall away, the husy qua\s, the iaij^c passenm'r hoats steaniinj; in ^rimy, weather- beaten walls and narrow windows on either side, the steep-roofed antique French houses, the cork-screw ascent towards 36 QUEBEC. \ H M I ' the upper town, the rugg(;d pavement over which the wheels of the caldclic noisily rattle, recall the peculiarities of an old French town. And before Pres'--^tt Gate was sacrificed to modern utilitarian demands, the effect was intensified by the novel sen- sation — in America — of entering a walled town through a real gate, frowning down as from a media; val storj'. The short, crooked streets of Quebec, diverging at all kinds of angles, make it as difficult to . nd one's way as in Venice or old Boston. It has grown, like old towns, instead of being laid out like new ones, and its peculiarities of growth have been differentiated to a remarkable degree by the exigencies of its site and fortifications. The "lie" of the place can be best explained by saying that the walls embrace a rudely-drawn section of an ellipse, the straight side of wliich divides the city from the comparatively level ground of the country in rear (towards tln! north-west), while the Citadel occupies the western corner of the curve which follows the eilge of the precipice abutting on the St. Lawrence, turning an abrupt corner round the Seminary (iardens, and following the line of the high grounansi' of river, with its white sails or dark steam-craft, to the hither shore, with the light mist of Montmorency on the distant woods, and the grand outlines of the Laurcntian Mills tlial here tirst meet the river whose name they bear: while nearer still, the dreiian front and dome of the Custom House, the mass of l.av.il riii\ersity and the lowers and steeples of th<' up|)er town till in a varied foreground. 'i"o the right, the terrace stretches away in a promenade, till it is cut short l)\ tlu' steep slope of the Citadel crownetl by ranijiart and bastion, while behind lie the shady walks of the (iovernor's Carden. surrounding the pillar dcilicati'd to the joint memor\- of Wolfe and Montralm. It is a view to which no artist's pencil could do justice, since no picture could give it in its com])leteness, and it would take nian\ to 42 QUEBEC. fully illustrate its ever-varyin}r aspect from sunrise to sunset, or when the mooniijjht enfolds it in a serener and more solemn beauty. One might dream away a summer day or a summer night on Dufferin Terrace; but the present claims attention as well as the past. Passing to the rear, you can wander through the shad)' walks of the Cjovernor's tiarden or sit on the iron seats near the " Ring," and call up before the imagination the stirring, martial scenes so often enacted on tiie (haniic Place before the chateau. Thert; the rem- nant of the unfortunate Hurons pitched their tents after the butchery of thousands of their number by the Iroquois on the Isle of Orleans, and there they were allowed to build a small fort. Thither, too, came a deputation of forty Iroquois, tattooed and naked, vociferating an appeal for peace to the Onontliio or Governor, in the summer of 1666, when the gallant regiment of Carignan-.Salieres had at last succeeded in instilling fear into their savage breasts. Here, also, many a French Governor, as the represent- ative of His Most Catholic Majesty, surrounded by a bewigged and plumed retinue, received with due circumstance the keys of the Castle of St. Louis. Hut it is time that we ascended to the Citadel, at which we have been so long looking from below. A flight of steps takes us up from the western enil of Dufferin Terrace to the glacis. Here we again stop to look down. It is the view from the terrace, expanded in every direction. At our feet lies the bus)- panorama of river and docks ; the Grand Trunk ferr)-boat, like a tiny /'nt/caii, is stealing across the ri\i-"r in a wide curve, to avoid the pressure of the tide. On the other side we see trains arriving and departing, ;;teaming along the rock) ledge of the opposite height upward towartls Montreal or downward on the way to the sea. Just below the Citadel stretches the long massive dock of the Allan Steamship Company, at which, if it is Saturday morning, liie Liverpool steamer is lying, getting read)' for departure. \'.'ins loaded with freigiit or Inggage are discharging their contents into the hold. Passengers are stepping on board to take jjossession of their cabins, accompanied by friends reluctant to say the final adieu. One looks with a strange interest, never dulled by repetition, at the black hull about to bear its precious freight across the wide ocean to " the under world," unwitting of tile peril it is going to brave. l-rom the terrace we climb by a fligiit of somt; two huntlred and lift) steps to tile toji of tile glacis. .\ path round its grassy slope Icails to the entrance of the Citadel itself — ascending from .St. Louis .Street, built up on each side h)' solid stone walls. Passing through the celel)rated chain gates, we find ourselves in the spacious area made by the widened ditch and retiring bastion, the levt;l sward being used for a parade-ground. On the green sides of the earthwork above the ditch goats are peacefully grazing, giving an aspect of rural trantpiillit) that presi:nts a pic- turesque contrast to the massive portals of Dalhousie Gate, with its guard-rooms built into the thickness of the arch on either side. Entering through it, we are at last h QUEBEC. nicrikESQUE ASn PESCKirriVE. 43 within tho Citadel itself, which, spreading over forty acres its labyrinth of ditch and earthwork ami rampart and bastion, impresses us at once witii the appropriateness of its proud title of the Canadian Gibraltar. Ascending to the broad gravel walk on the top of the bastion, we retrace our steps toward the river by the parallel line of wall on the inner side of the ditch, pierced with embrasures for the cannon that command every avenue of approach. Passing on, we take in glimpses of the ever-glorious view which bursts upon us at last in all its magnificence, as we stand on the King's Bastion besiile the tiag-staff, — a view which, take it all in all, it is not too much to say is unsurpassed in North America. Quebec — with its quaint contrasts of okl and new — lies at our feet, the fringe of buildings anil wharves at the foot of Cape Diamond literally so, the nMuainder of the city clustering about and up the lunght, like Athens about her Acropolis. Across the river studded with craft of all imaginable variety — from the huge primitive raft that hardly seems to move, to the swift, arrowy steam-tug or tlu- stately ocean-ship that spreatls her sails to catch the breeze — the eye ascends the heights of Levis, beyond the masses of railwa\' buildings to the umlulating curves in which nestle the clusters of tiny I-'rench houses, with their great protecting churches; then it follows the widening river, studded with sails, to the dim blue woods and distant hamlets of Orleans ; on, still, to the bold mountains that form so grand a background to the cultivated slopes which ilesceiul to the long village street of the Ueauport road, with its church towers guiiling the eye to the Mont- morency cleft or emboli lit lire, in which, on a very clear day, you can just discern the faint white spray ascending from the I'all , and farther on, to Caj) Tourmente and the blue mountain of St. .'\nne. NeariM-, the glance returning takes in the winding St. Charles, the outlying suburbs of St. Joi i and St. Roch ami St. .Sauveur, the crooked line of the city wall, the green turf and pojjlars of the Iisplanade, iIk; shady grounds and Officers' Quarters of the .\rtill(My Barracks, llu: Hotel Dieu, Laval University with its belfry, the towers of the Basilica, the (iothic turrets of the Mnglish Cathedral, whih;, just below, we ha\e a binl's-eye view of 1 Juffcrin icrrace and its pavilions ; of the Governor's Garden, with the top of Montcalm's monument rising above the trees ; of the line of Champlain Street and Champlain Market, and the rows of tall French houses that rise up against the dark, slaty cliff, with its fringe ami tufts of scanty vegetation ; of the line of wharves and docks, steamboats and steamships, till the field of view is suddenly curtailed by the abutments of the cliff on which we stand. But there are other points of view, so we pass on along the entrance front of the Officers' Quarters, a portion of v.hich is set apart for the summer residence of the Ciovernor-General. It is not a very imposing vice-regal abode , but the simplicity of the accommodation and the restricted space are more than atoned for b)' the noble vistas of river and height and mountain commanded by the deepl)-embrasured windows. m 44 Qunnnc. In a line witli llic Officers' Oiiaitcrs arc tin- liospiial. the maj^aziiu's and llic ()l)Sfrv- ator\', where- tlic falliiiL; black liall skives the lime ilail\', at one o'clock, to the sliippinj^ below. ()ntsiclt' llie (ioviTiior-lii'tU'ral's Oiiarlfrs, ami extending; towards tlic Kinjj's Bastion, a platform has been erected which, on summer fete-nitrhts, serves as a prome- nade imiciiie and wonderfid, from which " fair women and brave men " look down five hundred feet into the dark abyss below, sparkiinjr witii myriads of lights L;leaminif b'om city, heiijht - — ■•=^' -.""-'I and rixcr. At tlu' Prince's islion, on the western an^le of the ortress. where the •' Prince's I'fatlu'r," c,ir\ed in stone, commemorates the visit of IJle Prince of W'.lles, the \-ii'w is still me''<' extensive. West- ward, we look u]i the river, to the green bluff curving; into \\'olf(?'s Cove and Sillerv, while across we still have before us the varied line of the opposite heiiL^hts, with their long street of old Irench houses cri'eping just imder its vvoodeil sicK-s, and a little faither to the light sou catch tile gleam of the steeples of New Liverpool. After the eye has been partially satistied with gazing on this grand panorama, we may stroll leisurely along the wall, taking in the ever -shifting views from the \arious ) it QUEBEC. P/CJ URESQUE AND DESCRJJ'i'jrE. 45 vii:\v IKOM \\\v chadki,. points, and ()l)scr\in)^ tlii^ niassivcncss of ilic Kastions and t-artliworks, tliat witli many a hcwildi-riiiL;' zij^f/as;'. cnconiiiass the: contra! forti- lication. As wc pass hack tliron^li the cliain L;atcs, let us stop In look into tli<' casemates, or rooms l)\iilt in tlic intiM'ior of tlic massive cartluvorlv ()nc catclu's a LTJimp^c, llirou'^h tlic intervening; darkness, of a lighted ul- terior, remmduii^ us of a Hutch picture, throwing' a hit ol domestic life into stronij hLjiit and shade. 1 h're are rooms whtM'e the soldiers and tlieir famiUes resi(K', tlie solid earthwork al)OVC and around them, ileep windows letlini;- in the li^hl and air. Before leavinj.; the precincts of the Citailel, takt' a look at the rock on which it is hiiilt — an uneven, circular surface of lis^lil j;ra\ rock hearini,; the soitbriijiict of " Moy's liack," No I'rench or ancient assciciations attach to th<' Citadel, except to one mat;a/ine near the I'rince's Bastion, the inner portion ol which seems to heloni; to the i'rench itc^inic. heini^ built of ruhhk', the outei' casing only iR-im; modern. The plans for tlu' pri-scnt Citadel were supervised hy the Iron Duke, thoui^h he never saw the- place. The cliain gates let us out into a sort of extension of the ditch, from which we eniergt b)- the m t I I 46 QUlifiliC. ' 1 1 I II ;s MONUMKM 11) VVOl.ll. AMI MONK. MM. sally-port. From thence, a path leads over the broken ^jroiind of tlie "Plains" to the l)all-eanri(l^e lieUi. As we pass we shall not fail to note tiie broken },nassy curves ami monnils that preserve the outlines of the old I'rencii earthworks -the prede- cessors of liie pii'seni fortifications, —a prom- inent and interesting object. Approach- \\v^ the Martrllo tower we are olilij^ed to jro out on tile St. I.ouis ro.-iii, or the Cluiiiiii i/f la (iroiiiif . ///iV, as it was called in the old i'nneh period. I'ollowini^ this still westward, .1 turn to the li'ft, between the turnpike and tiie race-course, takes us down to some liarren and neijlected-iookinjif proiMid on wiiich stamis \\'olf<-'s nionnnieiit, and a little fartlni- on, a road leads down- wards to tiie Cove wiiere Wolfe landed his troops ijie niLjht l)efore the iiattle, when even Montcalm at first refused to attach imporlanre to what he thouirht was "only Mr. W'olfi-, with a small parly, come; to Ijurn a few iiouses, Ami return." .\ road now winds down tlie face of tile ciitl anioni; the strajj- .ti;lini,f pines wliere, in Wolfe's lime, tliere was only ;i rouj^di jTull)' \\\) wiiich Ik' and his sol- diers scramlihd. draeLjiuLj with them a six - pounder - their only ^un -which played no iiu-an [)arl in i^rainiiit;' liie victory. Xow tiu' (piiet l)ay. with its rafts and lunilier-piles and pass- ine craft, is peacefid enough, and in tli<' soft purple light of a summer evening, seems to iiarmonize less with martial memories than with the asso- ciation with (iray's J'-ic^y be- (jueathcd to it by Wolfe, who, on the night before the decisive llMl.-UALL, KKU.M 1U1-. I'KINch.s IIASIIO.S. QUFJUIC: PICTURESQUE AND DESC/a/'/7l'E. 47 ii WOl.l'K'ri CUXL. p 48 QUEBEC. action, npcatfd luTf, wiili perhaps some sad presentiment of iinpendinjj fate, the stanza — " Tl>c liii.isi of [icr.ililry. tlic |hiiii|) uI [lower, Ami .ill ill. II lie.iuty, all that wraith e'er ^'V4t, Await alike the incvitalile hour The paths nl j;'"i') I'''"' '"H '" 'he (jravc I " Retracinjj our steps to the St. l.oiiis road, we follow it straij^ht liark to the city, notinjf tile tine new pile of l)iiililinj,'s erected for the Houses of I'.irli.iineiit, just beyond whicii we pass throu^li one of the old jrates of yiiebec, the .St. l.oiiis (iati-, now massively rebuilt witli embrasures and Norman towers -one of the tiiree still to In; preserved to tht- city. Mut it is not the old .St, Louis date, with its weather- beaten superstructun- anil zij,'/aj,^ appro.uh. \\ lien the e.xcessive newness has somewhat worn off, it will doubtless be much mon- imposinjr than its predecessor, and more fitted, like its neij^jhbour, Kent (iate. Iiuilt at her Majesty's expense, to iiold up its head in a pro^jrcssive aije, which does not ap|jreciate dilapitlation, howe\ir picturestjue. I'assin^f throui^h Si. l.ouis Ciati'. with its new Xoiinan turrets, wi' ha\c to our riijlu the wimlinjr ascent to the Citadel ,uid to our left the I'.splanade ; while at the corner of the St. l.ouis Hotel we are aj^^ain in the business centre of the upjier town, .md soon come to the open area of the Tlace d'Armt-s, whence we pass into Huade .Street, on which stands the new Post-OlTue, a handsomi; buildini; of j^ray cut-stone, plain but in i^^ood taste, with two short Ionic pill, us at the entrance. The old I'ost-OlTice which preceded it hail a history. syniboliz(;d b\ a i'Vench inscription under the sIljii of the Chieii d'Or, or (ioldeii Dojv, which le^fend.u-) auiinal still retains his post o\-er the entrance o*' the pri'sent buildinij. This inscription was the expression of the wroiii^rs sulfered b\ the ori^nnal owner a merchant nameil I'l'ilibert— at the hands of the Intendant liiyol of unsavoury memor\. It ran, in old 1 uhlIi — .11 VN nirrN ijvi kiini;k i'os, I-.N I.K I. ilSCKANI- JK I'KIMis MiiN KKI'OS, VN TIM VIKMiUA (.IVl NISI I'AS VKNV QVK Jl- .MDKIJKAV IJVI .MAVKA MOKllV." i1 lejjcnd ly be freely translated, " / hide iiiv time" Poor I'hilibert was never able to put his ireat into execution. Ivs life and his |)lans for revenj^e beinjr suddenly brought to an end one day on Mountain ,it the liuendant's instillation, who came all the way from 1 assassin to his refut^e in tlv ;md the s\nil)olic doir over tin ill. b\' a swortl-th.rust from a I'Vench ofticer, no doubt story hatl a s<;cpiel, howe\cr. I'hilibert's brother, ux as his (rxt^cutor and blood-avenj^er. tracked the ist Indies, and slew him there. Champlain's bust, iranct;, with the sii'ii of "The ("loldeii Dot:" on an inn (lose connect the new I'ost-Ol'fice with the memories of old Ouebec, while w QLhliliL: I'K ll'HliSQrn Ah'D PliSiRH'TIVF.. 49 the nanif of one of the streets at the corner of which it stands —Hiiatle Street — recalls thi' pahniest days of the i-'rcnch n'gime, under Louis Huade, CoiiiU de l-rontenac. l-rom here Mountain Hill b'-jrins its circuitous iUsc<'nt, and on the opposite side is the old- fashioned-buililin),', ()ri>,dnally the Arcld)ishop's Palace, which has been used for many years as the Parliament Muildin^'s, C'loinj,^ down Mountain Hill from hence, we comi; to thi; dilapiilateil stairway, the anti(iue, ^aml)rel-roof<'d buildinyjs beside it beinjif very cliaracteristic of tix- old city. Hut we will not ilescenil to the lower town, but walk back up Buaile Street till we come to what, until re- cently, was the mark(;t-place of the upper town, now trans- ferred, iiowever, to the open space in front of St. John's Gate. On one side of the wide, open square. Kli.NI GAIli. stands the Hasilica, as the French Cathedral is called, linked with some of the oldest memories of the settlement of Oueliec. It hardly looks its aji^e, and is not b\' any means' so imposinij as Notre Dame, of Montreal. It w;is beL,nin b\ Bishop l.a\al ill 1647. and was consecrated in 1666, under the name of the Church of tile Im- maculate Conception. Its massive fa(adc, with its tower on one side and its tall spire on \.\\v. other, jrives an impression of a rare solidity within, and the lofty arches of the nave would have a Imk; effect, if it were not finished in a cold and ilead florid .Renais- sance style, wiiicli looks (piiti- out of k((q)in<;- with the homely anti(]uit\- of the " t^ray lady of the Xorth." Hut the main cliann of the buildintj lies in its lontj association with the religious life of brench-Canada, from the da\ s of Le Jiuine and 1 )e Jogues, hi. JlillN.h I, All.. Ill %>. 1 50 QUEBEC. \\ 1 1 Miulanic tie la Pcltric and Marie ck- I'lncarnaticin. Within these walls many an ago- nized vow and prayer has tjone iii; from the early martyrs and heroes of th(! Canadian Mission for the conversion of Huron and Iroqviois, and for safety from the murderous attacks of their savaj:|ie foes. Here, too, have echoed the Te Deums of a grateful colony, in the joy of some signal deliverance or decisive victory. The somewhat gaudy decoration of tiie present interior seems to fade away as we go hack, in tiiought, to tiie days when the bare rafters over-arclied the self-exiled worshippers whose needs and enthusiasm mingled in jirayers of pathetic earnest- ness to Him in whose cross and sufferings they decMiied themselves sharers. It is a natural transition from the Basilica to the Semi- nary, and a few steps lead through the massive open iron gates of Lav.il University, along the narrow passage that hrings us to tile tloor of tiie .Seminar)' chapel. This chai)el is only a hundretl years old, Mr. Le Moine tells us, and its chief historic association is that of having served as a military '^ OUI'.nHC : PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE. 51 [irisoii for Aiiifiican orticers takt-n prisoners of war in tlu; attact< In Arnold and Montgomery, Hut the Seminary was founded by Bisliop Laval in 1663, about the time that tlu' Hasilica was complett^d. Laval University is a secular off-shoot of the Seminary proper, which was founded for theoloirical education only, — this beinj;; still the object of the Grand Seniinain: The buildin}f» of the Semi- nary enclos(! the site of tiie first hoiisf built b) the first I''rench settler Hebert, and its garden, wilii tlie neighbouring streets, occupies the land first cleareii for agricultural pur- poses. The University building, with its spacious new wings, extends to the very edge of the promontory, and from its tower another view can be obtained of the cit) ami its surroundings. There is not much to see in the University itself, so we pass out again antl retrace our steps to the Little Markitt Square in front of the Basilica, where stands the long w ill III I w V ^t 52 QUEBEC. row of caUclies whose drivers, French and Irish, have a keen eye for any i)asser-by who seems to wear the tourist' dr of observation. Just opposite the Cathedral stood until recently the large pile of the Jesuit Barracks — originally tiie Jesuit College- - with its yellow, stuccoed front and grated windows, and a high portal with the time- worn letters "I. 11. S." still visible as the mark of its early owners. Turning back we pass down St. Famille Street, which ex- tends along the eastern side of the Seminary CJardens and leails to tiie opening in the wall wiiere but recently stood Hope Ciate. I'Vom this point there used to be a continuous promenade round the ramparts, which, when the present work of pulling down and niiuilding is com- [ileted, will again txist in a greatly im|)roved state, in fuHilmcnt of one; of Lord Dufferin's plans for the adornment of ()uebec. 15ut now we will retrace our steps to the Cathedral Scjuare, and crossing it ;it its U[)pcr eiul. pass in front of the luigiish Cathedral, a sombn^-looking buikling, with a substantial turr<'t, standing within an okl-fash- ioned, shady enclosure. .'\ little farther on we come to a gray, ecclesiastical-looking cluster of buildings around a small green "close," consisting of the old .Scottish ihurch, dating from iSio, with its substantial manse antl school-house. 'I'lu' group seems to belong to a Scottish landscape as naturally as the greater part of Quebec does to a French one. Just opposite the church stands what was the old gaol, associated with some grim memories of the days of political imprisonments, now, through the generosity of Dr. LOOKI.NG ACROSS rHK i;SJ'LAN.\ni-; ro BEAUPOKT. QUniU'.C: PICTURHSQUH A AD nHSCRIPTU'E. 53 Morrill, OIK' of Quebec's old citizens, converted into a Presbyterian College, a part of it being devoted to the rooms of tlu^ Literary and Historical Society. Passing along St. Ursule Street, we come back to St. Louis Street, and, turning the corner of the long range of massive gray stone convent buildings, we reach the entrance to the chapel, at the end of Parloir .Street. The I'rsuline I On vent and gardens occupy no small portion of the space within tlu; walls, and they deserve it by a well-earned right. The chapel of the convent ii.is various interesting reminiscences and associations, religious and artistic, ..:ul martial as well. One interestins,' and suggestive object is a votive lamp, lighted a hundred and tift)- years ago by tvo I'Vinch officers, on their sisters taking tiie veil, and kept burning ever since, except lor a snort time during the siege of 1759. There are paintings sent from P'rance at tiie Re\olution — one s.iid to be by Vandyke and one l)y Champagna — and wood car\ ings, the work of the first Canadian School of Art, at St. Ann's, early in the eighteenth century. Montcalm, taken thither to die, was burieil within tile convent precincts in a grave dug for him by a bursting shell ; antl his skull, carefully preserved, is still shown to visitors t(j the chapel. • From the Ursuline Convent a short walk brings us back to the Esplanade, between the St. Louis and Kent (iati-s. Turning into its (piiet area, faced b\ a row of rather sombre-looking private resiliences, we ascenil IJK' si<)[)e to the walk that runs along the line of wall. Looking cil\-ward, from one point in our promenatle we take in the idyllic view of the lran<|uii Lsplanade, with its poplars and disused guns, the ancient little Jesuit ciuirch and the old National school immediately in frc^n : while across the ramparts and the abrupt dt.'scent beyontl. we catch the blue strip of river between us and Ht'au|)ort, with white sails skimming across, and thi wliit(.' houses scattered along the gre-en slopes opposite, that enci again in a grand mountain wall. Proceetling on from tlu- P^splanade, we walk across the top of Ktiit liate and tlu'ii follow the line of the ram|)arls to the massive arched portal of St. John's Ciate, whence we look down on the luis\ Monlialin M.irkci imincdiatel)- below, with its primitive P'reiuh market- carts and good-humoured I'Vench market-women, who will sell \ou a whole handful of boiKjuets for a few cents. We have to leave the ramparts soon after passing St. John's (iatc', the pronienaile, which will be continuous, not being yet finished. Taking our wa\' back, we return to the stjuare, and engage one of the eager ((jlhhc- drivers to takt; us out to Montmorenc)' Palls, a nini?-mile dri\e. .Xscemling to the high-perched seat in the little two-wheeled vehicle, we are soon rattling over the not very smooth thoroughfare of the .St. John suburbs, among modern and uninteresting streets — for tlu:s(; suburbs ha\f been again aiul again laid waste by fire. We pass near the ruins of the old Intemlani's Palace, and an; soon on Dorchester Bridge, the gray rock of the city rising behind us, the valle)' of the .St. Charles winding away to the north-west. " Thert%" our driver will say, looking up at the river where the tide is rising among some ship-)arils, " is where Jacipies C.irtier laid up his ships." Near 1 I 54 QUEBEC. I ! 1:! m m that point, also, Montcalm's hritl^e of boats crossed the rivt-r, in 1 750, and in a large entrenchment, where once stood the Jesuit Mission House, the remnants of his scattered army rallied after the battle of the " I'iains." F.ven the r(?/(V//c-drivers are anticiuarian ami liistorical in Quebec, and take priiie in acting the part of cicerone to tlie venerable associations of the place. The memory of Montcalm is associated witli many point > along the pleasant road tliat leads througii long-stretching I'Vench villages, between the gre(;n meadows tliat slope u]) to tile liills on tiie (me side and down to tile St. Lawrence on the other. Tlu' burning sun of our Canadian summer, softeiU'd here by tiie fre(]uent mists ,uid fogs from the sea, does not parcii tiie verdure, as it too often tloes in regions farther in- land. The velvety green of tlie low-lying meadows, dotted and fringetl with graceful elms and bcecli and mai)le, would do no discn'dit to the lunerald Isle ; and if the villas and fields were surrounileil by heilges insteail of fences, the landscajje niigiit easily be taken for an English onc'. About tiiree miles below Quebec we pass the Heauport Asylum,' a tine, sul)stantial buiitiiiig, witli a good ileal of ornamental statuary and other decoration in front, in wiiich a large numl)er of lunatics are care 1,11. i.m.e, From Montmorency, top nf tllc I', ill, ll.ul Ixcn too slisjluly cnnstnirtcd, ami had not stood \('r\ loii;; Ix-foi-c it l)rokc asunder while a liahittvtt and hi-^ wife were crossinL; it in their niarket-rart. !"he\' \V(>re swept at once over the cataract, iK'ver to he seen aitrain. Ihe hridi^c was not rehuill, the two piers still standini;. mute monuments of the traijc'dy. The house already seen ahovc the hall associated with the father of our fjracious (juccn — is a consiitcuous object liom the top of the stair, and the paths laid out in the jrrnunds must command nol)le views. A part of one of the small cascades is usi d for turnini; the machinery of a saw-mill near by, hut the mill itself is lj;ul,ir mound of ice and snow, is ! i QUEBEC. '1 I J -I gradually formed, in winter, by the frc-ozinj,' spray. It prows till it attains a li; though somewhat ilanj;erous Canadian sport. When the "Cone" and its vicinity are alive with tobojrganners — the ladies dressed in bright, becoming costumes, some of them making tiie dizzy descent in a light cloud of snow, others -Jdwl)- ilrawing iliji' MUM MURl-.NCV klVl;K Al<0\t I AI.Lb. I' their toboggans up the "Cone" — the scene, in its winter attire of pure, sparkling snow, crusting the dark evergreens and contrasting with the rushing Fall, is at once a grand and pleasing one. We turn away reluctantly from the beautiful picture, and in a few minutes are rattling QVl-.nEC: NCTURHSQUE AND nRscRiri'iin. 69 back alonj,' llic road to Qiicljcc. Tlie city, as wc ilraw near it, in tiit; cvcninjf iij^iit, apjuars to blaze out in a jjlitterinjf sheen, every tin roof j^ivin^' back the afternoon siinsliiiic till the wiioh! rock seems irradiated witli a j^oldi^n j^lory, in stroller contrast to tile d('ci< tones of tile hills beyond. Graduall)- tiie ^lory resolves itself into roofs and house's, ;ind soon we cross Dorchester Mridjje aj^ain, when, turning by a side street to the rij^ht, we j)ass through the deserted market-place outside St. John's date, anil are once more within tlu; cit\-, driving along St. John Street, the chief thoroughfare. One of the points of interest in the immediate vicinity of Quebec, is the site of the old hunting-lodge of the Intendant Higot, beyond the village of Charlesbourg. Leaving the main road, we penetrate through a tangled thicket and reach an open glade beside a stream wlu.-re some weather-worn walls, the remains of what is poi)ularl\- called tin; Chateau Higot, stand amid lilac and syringa Inislu^s which still show traces of an old ;f;ir('en. i'here the wicked Intendant was wont to hold his carousals with his boon com- panions of liu' hunt, after the fashion described in the " Cliicn if Or." It has its legend of a iinricd hoanl of siKcr and of a beautiful Huron girl who loved Higot and dietl a violent death. Hut ajjart from legend, it has a wild grace of its own, with its hoary vestiges of a long-past habitation, anil the pine-crowned moimtain rising as a noble back- ground behind the surrounding trees. Sillery is among the sacred places of Quebec, and a pilgrimage thither is one of the |)leasantest little excursions one can make from the old cit)-. biom the deck nf the "James," which plies on the river between Quebec and Sillery, we can look up, lu'st to tiie old, steep houses massed under the scarped rock that shoots aloft on to Diifferin Terrace, with Its watch-lowers, and thence to the crowning height of the Citailel. We steam slowly past the brown shelving precipice of Cape Diamond, with its fringe of I'Vench hou.ses and shipping ; past lumber vessels lifting huge logs from rafts in the stream, beyond the |)(>int where, high up on the red-brown rock we can easily read the inscription, "Here Montgomery fell — 1775." Then we pass the green plains, with their broken ground and old earthworks and Martello towers and observatory, anil the grim gaol — a conspicuous mass ; tinn a stretch of ground, covered with low xegetation, gives place to hig!i-u()()ded banks and shades, opening, through masses of i)ine and oak ind maple foliagi', glimpsi!s of pleasant country-seats. Opposite, from the curving point of l,''\is, the eye follows height after height, rich, rounded, wooded hills, at the foot of which, just op|)Osite, lies the busy village of New Liverpool, with its massive and tuieh- frescoed church. Hut we must leave .Sillery. with its sacred and stirring memories, and drive up the foliage-clad height which makes so effective a background, h. gradual ascent above the residence, soon brings us to tlu' level ground above, to the |)retty, foliage-embowered St. Louis road, where we pass tin- pine-shaded glades of Mount Hermon Cemetery. S[)encer Wood is one of the charming country resiliences of which we catch a urissing \\ 6o QUEBEC. 1 1 1'! I QUHIUiC: PICTURRSQUE AND /^r.SCK/r'nm. 6i glimpse, and its bosky recesses .iml l)rijfiu i^iinlcns arc \\w. scenes of many a pitasanl ffite for tiu; liniK iiioiuii- of (jiiclicc, imdcr tlie iiospitahle aiis[)ices of llie l.iciitcnanl- Governor of liie day. As we draw nearer llu; city, cross-roads jjive us j,dimi)ses of tiu! jfrand mountain landscape to the nortli, and of tiie Stc. I'Oye road, wiiieii leads by an extremely pretty drive to the .Sic I'oye monument, on an open plateau on the i)ro\v of the cliff overhan),dn<,f the valley of tiie St. Charles. The monument, a slender Doric l)illar crowned by a bronze statue of Hellona, presented by I'rince Napoleon on the occasion of his visit to Canada, commemorates the battle of Ste. b'oye, between Levis and Murray — the final scene in the slruyyle between b'rench ;ind l{n,i;lish for the pos- session of Can.uia and also marks the jjrave of those wiio fell. It bears the inscription, " .\iix biavis lie I 7()0, nii;r pur Ic Socii'ti' St. Jean Ihiftlistc i/c (J/iScf, iiS6o." About two and a half miles alont( the .Sir. b'oye road lii's llie liclmont Cemetery, the buryinjf-place of the ^nrat Roman Catholic church<'s the Basilica and St. Jean Baptiste. There, under the solemn pines, sleeps, anions main of his com|)atriots, the noble and patriotic (iarneau, the historian of brench-Canada. With a visit to his tomb we may ajipropriately close our \vanderinj;s about this historic city. It ! I 1 '■ 1 I . FRENCH-CANADIAN LIFE AND CHARACTER. "TF you have never visited tiie C6te de Beauprc, you know neither Canada nor the I Canadians," says the AIiIjc I'erland. The i)eautifui strip of country tiiat borders the St. Lawrence for a score or so of miles below the I-'alls of Montmorency does, indeed, afford tlie best possijjle illustration of the scenery, the life, and the manners of the l'ro\in((! of Quebec, the peoiile of which, not content with namini; the Dominion, liaim Canada aiul Canailian as desi^Mia- tions peculiarly their own. Ail tliat is lovely in landscape is to be fouml there. Tiie broad sweep of " the j^reat river of Canada," between the ramjiarts of Cape Diamond and the forest-crowned crest of Cap Tourmente, is frinj^ed with ricii meadows risinij in terraces of \erdure, slope aft(!r slope, to thi; foot of the sombre hills that wail in tiie vast amphitheatre. In tin; forej^round the north channel, hemmed in by the bold cliffs of the Island of Orleans, sparkles in the sun. Far awa\- across the Tr.iverse, as you lock between the tonsured iiead of i'etit Cap and the point of (Jrleans, a cluster of low islands breaks the broatl expanse of the main stre.im. tht brilliant blue of which 62 MM FRliNCH-CANADIAN LlFli AND CHARACTER. 63 GATHERINli M.\UM1 HAY. mclis on tlic distant liori/on into tlic hardly pnrrr azure of the sky. Quaint kxttiaux, with sweliins; canvas, make their slow wa\-, or l\in,i,f hiijh Klide nonn('< nals t( tluindt l.OADlNi; A MAiri-AU Ar Low riDE. % Jy 64 OUF.BRC. LAP roL k.MI.N IK AM) I'l.Tll' CAI'. coviux'il witli rich ^rass, arc stiuldcd wiili liaNinakcrs iratlicriiii^ the al)iinclant yield, or are dotted witii cattle. Inland, stiff poplars and bosky elms trace out the long brown rliiands of tlu' roads. 1 1 ere anil then' the white cotiii^^es group c1osrt of the Province. It was settled soon after Cl'.amplain landed, the lii 1 marsh hay being utilized at once for the wants of (Quebec. In 16;,; a fort was built at Petit Ca|), the summit (jf the pro- monotory that iuts out into tlu' ri\cr under the o\ 1 rsh.idowing height of Cap Tourmente. The fort w;is destroyed by Sir ')a\id l^irk — Admiral, tiie ihronicit rs call him in tl'.ese days hi' would i)robabl\ Ix' hanged as a buccaneer who harried the cattle ,ind then sailed 01; to scuunvMi Quebec to surrender for the first time. In 1670 l.a\a! establislu'd here a school for training boys as well in farming and mechanics, as in doctrine and discipline. Among other imhi .tries, wofKl-carvuig for church decoration was taught. FRENCH-CANADIAN LIFE AND CffARACTFR. 65 so that the C6te de Bcauprc can lay claim to the first Art School and the first model-farm in America. The Quebec Seminary still keeps u[) this state of things — at least as far as agriculture is concerned. The place is known as " The Priests' I'arm," and supplies the Seminary, being thoroughly worked and having much attention given to it. It is also a summer resort for the professors and pupils of the Seminary. After the restoration of Canada to I'Vance by the Treaty of St. Germain-en-Laye, in 1632, this part of the little colony grew ai' ice, .so that by the tirre the seigniory passed into Laval's hands, from whom it came to its present owners — the Seminary — its population, notwithstanding its exposure to attack by the Irotjuois, was greater than that of Quebec itself. From its situation it has been less vulnerable than many other districts to outside intluences. The face of the country and the character of the people have yielded less to modern ideas, which, working (Quietly and imperceptibly, have left intact many of the antiquities, traditions and customs 1! it have disappeared elsewhere within the last generation. I h ic you may fmd families liv- ing on the lands their forefathers took in feudal tenure frnni the first se/^/n/irs of 1 a iN^ouveile France. What Ferland says is still to a great extent true : "In the habilant of the C6te de Heaupre you have tiie Norman pea.sant of the reign of Louis XIV^, with his legends, his songs, iiis superstitions and his customs." He is not so benighted as many people tiiink he is, Init iicrc and tliere you will come across a genuine survi\al of tile Oil! Reginie, and may, perhaps, meet some gray-capoted, fi.r-capped, liro\vii-\ isaged, shrivclled-up old man, wiiose language and ideas make you think a \eritable lireton or Norman of the ciMitury i)efore last has been weather-beaten and smoke-dried into perpetual |ireservatio-; .All tiic world over your rustic is conservative. Th<' old gods lived long among the Italian \illagi!rs, though Rome was the cenf" of the new^ faith. .Among the habitans of the Province of Quebec there )'et exist a mode of life anrl cast of tiiought strangely in contrast with their surroundings. In the cities a rapid i)rocess >{ assimi- lation is going on. Quaint and foreign thougli Montreal, iml especially Quebec, seem to the stranger at first sight, their inteiest is mainly historical and political. To under- stand the national life of Lower Canada, you must go among ihe liahitans. The word is peculi.vily I'Vench-Canadian. The /'tty.uvi. or |iias;iiu. never existed in A.N oil) IIAHIIANT. 66 QUEBEC. ■ \ ^ \\ Canada, for the feudalism estalilishcd liy Louis XIV. did rot imply any personal depend- ence upon tile scii^iicur, nor, in fact, any real social intoriority. I'^acii cnis/'/airc was, in all hut name, virtually as inilependent a proprietor as is his descendant to-day. He was and he is emphatically the dweller in the land. He " went up and saw the land that it was good," possessed it, and dwells therein. The term is often useil as ('(piiva- lent to (ultivatciir, or farmtT, and as distinguishing the rural from the urban population ; but, rightly umlerstood ;uul used as he uses it, nothing more forcibly expresses both the origin antl nature of the attachment of the breiich - Caiunlian to his country antl the tenacity with which he clings to his nationality, his religion ami his language. The persistency of French nationality in Canada is remarkable. The formal guar- antees of the Treaty of Paris and the Quebec Act, that language, religion and laws should be preserved, undoubtedly saved it from e.xtinction by concpiest. But to the difference in character between the Frencli and English, which is so radical and has been so sedulously fostered by every possible means, not the least ellective bi;ing an able and vigorous literature wiiich preserves and cultivates the b'rench l.uiguage ; to the political freedom which allowed the realization of the early j)i'rc<'pti(in that as indisiduals they would be without inlluence, as a bodv all-[)()werful ; to tlu' inlurciu merits of their ci\il law, the direct ilescendant of a jurisprudence which was a relined science centuries be- fore Christ ; and to the ideal of becoming the representatives of Roman Catholicism in America, must be mainl)- ascribed tli(; vitality that the I'rench-Canadians have shown as a distinct people. 1 heir numerical and physical condition will be di'alt with later on, but it inay be said here that a great deal is also due to their origin. Thi! hardy sailors of \ormand\- and Hretagne ; the sturdy farmers of .-Xnjou, Poitou, Le I'erche, Aunis, Saintonge and L'lle-dc-l'rance ; the soldiers of the Carign.m regiment who li.ul fought on every battle-lield in Eurojie, brought wilh them to Canaila the spirit (jf .uKi.-nture, the endurance-, the l)r;i\er\' — in short, .ill th<,- ([ualities that go to make successful coh nists, and th.it the) inlnriti-d from the same source as does the Englishman. In the I'nited States, the second or third "feneration finds other immigrants completely fuseil into the common citizenship, but the little French-Canadian colonies in the manufacturing towns of New Eiigland ami in the wheat regions of the West, keep their language, ;ind. to a great extent, their customs. Canada was a true colony, and has remain(;d the most ,succes.sful French attempt at colonization. I'roui various causes. I.ouisi.ma has failed to keep her nationality intact. In Lower Canada, the spirit of t'hamplaia ,ind La .Salle, of the (oure.trs di iiois, of tht; Iroquois-haunted settlers on the- narrow fringe of strag- gling farms along the .St L.iwrence — the spirit that kejjt u|) the- light for th<' l-'lurs de Lis long after "the few rcres of snow" had been abandoneil by their King has always remained the same, and still animates the colons in the backwoods. The I'rench-Cana- dians have always fought for a faith and an idea, hence they ha e remained French. FRENCH-CANADIAN LIFE AND CHARACTER. 67 As one of tlu;ir most celebrated I*"rench orators pointed out at the oint of beauty and significance, their names are imcqualled ; and tlu'y not only described the land as do tlu' 'ndians — they literally christened it. F.v;:n where it comes to \ erpetuating the memories of men, what a sonorous ring tliere is about Cham- plain, Ric'^elieu, .Sorcl, Chambly, Varennes, Contrecd-ur, Longueuil and Beauharnois, una])proaciiab"e by Kn-;iish analogues. Point Levis is, ',n .ruth, not a whit nn)re asthe- tic than Smith's I-'alls, nor more useful, but there is no denying its superiority of sountl. When you know the grotesque and haughty legend that represents t!ie \ irj^in Mary in heaven telling a Ciievalier de Levis, " Cousin, keep on your hat," you can no longer compare the two names, for you (piite un/^erstand wh)' the Le\ is famii)- siuiuid iiave a Point as well ,-is an .\rk of its own. L'Angc CJarilien lies just b(\(iiul the famous I'alls of Montnor<'nr\-. Set in irtM's on the slope of the hills, which here grow close on the river, anil slaniing high o\er the north channel, th Iwdt of settlement is much witier. .At the westward of the I'ro.mce it extends to the IJnitt^d States l)()undary line, but narrows as it approaches Quebec, so that hiiow the cit\- the arrangement is much the; same as on the north side. In fact, French-Canaila is very truly descrii)C(.l as two continuous villages along the St. Lawrence. The succession of white cottages, each on its own little paralh lognim of land, has struck every traveller from L;i Ilontan to the present day. The narrow farms, or tcrrcs, as they are called, catch the eye at once. Originally three arpens wide by th.irt) deep (^the aipcnt as a line:'! mea' iire equals iSo French or 191 70 QUEfiF.C. w w F.nijlish feet), or about 200 yards by a little over a mile, they have been sululivitled accordiii}^ to the system of int'.'state succession under the Coutume de Paris, wliicii gives property in etjual shares to all the children, until the fences seem to cover more grounroit dc Ri trait, or privilege of pre-emption at tiu- highest price bidilen for land within forty days after its sale ; this, howescr, was not much used. The onl\ other right of real consetpu-nce was the Droit dt- Iniiialitc. h\ which the icusitairc was boimd to grind his corn at the seig- neur x mill, paying one bushel out of ever\ fouri -en for toll. This arrangement suited the habitant very well. I le is sa\ing enough, .uid manages to accumulate a litile capital sometimes, but it goes into the savings bank, not unfrequently into an old stocking. The risk of an investment is too much for him, and he used to prefer that the seigneur should make tiu; nect:ssary outla\s, whiie all that he was called upon for would be a sacrifice of part of his crop. In this way, however, all industrial enterprise was ham- pered anil discouraged by the monopoly of the water |)ower. Under the French n'gime, a ci\il and criminal jurisdiction over his vassals, var\ing in extent according to the dignity of ihe tief was theoretically \ested in tlu' seigneur; and all the three^grades known to ImuIiI l.iw the basse, inoveune anil Iiaute justiee — theoretically existed in ■ni 74 QUKBEC. % Canaila. hut its exercise was rare, owinjj; to tilt; expense of k('(|iin^ up tlie machinery of a court and the petty amount of its cojjnizance. These reUcs of feudalism liave a curious interest to the anti(|uarian and also a very practical one as rej^arils the i)roj^ress of the country, existinji; as tiny did in the New World and under tiie prolciiion of ilir Hriiisli Constitution, ,uid still livinj; in the memories and lan^uaj^e of liu- pn'sent j^eneration. One of the most interestinj,' aspects of liic feudal tenure was the social relation between seigneur ami (viiailaiic. lliis w.is niMiiy alwa\s a paternal one, so much so, inileed, that it was (|uite as much irtjsy of odfather of his WAYblUl. WAIl-.Kl.Nt; IkOLi.U. censitaircs. Amonj^ his in,in\ jrraphir descriptions of life under tlic < )ld R('i;ime, M. de (iaspe j;ives an ainusin^r account of a friend receiving a New \'c.ir's visit from a hundred godsons. The iinvioir was all that " tiic (ircat 1 louse" of an l!nqlish stpiire is and more, for the intercourse between scii^nciir antl ccusitairc was freer and more intimate than that between sipiire and tenant. In spite of the nominal sub- jection, the ciiisitairc was less dej)endent and subservitMU than the I'.nglish peasant. It is impracticable here lo go into any detailed description of the seigniorial tenure, its intluences and die mode of its abolition ; but without some knowledge of it, the actual as well as the past condition of Lower Canada would Ije im|)OssibIe to understand. The whole system if colonization originally rested u|)on two men, tiie scig- /'K/iXC/UANAP/AN IJI'li AM) CHARAl IHK. 75 tieur and the curi, Throiiijh tlum x\w riovcrnmrnt workctl its military and rdij,nous or^'ani/ations, while their intircsls in the soil, from which both dcriviid their income, were identical. " The Sword, the Cross, and the I'louj^h " have been said to explain the secret of I*"rench-Canadian nationality. These three came together in their hands. Of courst!, all around the okl I'rench st^ttlements the system of freehold u|)()n which the Crown lands ar<' irrante 76 QUEBEC. It seems strange to see the women at work in the fie'ds. Their \^\\\^\ siiirts and enormous hats, however, are fine bits of detail for a picture, and tliey iiaving been used to such labours all their lives, do not mind it. Yountj ijirls of the poorer class hire out for the harvest, together with tlieir brothers. At times you may nu'ct troops of them on their way to churcii, their bottcs /''raiifaiscs — as store-made boots are still called, in contradistinction to bottcs Indicnnes—s\ung round their neci