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"k .0- / y THE NORTHERN TRAVELLER; r^-'.^i CONTAINING THE ROUTEt TO THE SPRINGS, NIAGARA, QUEBEC, AND THE COAL MINES; i t WITH THE TOUR OF NEW-ENGLANDJ AND A BRIEF GUIDE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS, AND SOUTHERN AND WESTERN R9UTES. BY THEODORE DWIGHT, Jr. SIXTH EDITION. WITH EIGHTEEN MAPS, AND NINE LANDSCAPES. •^ I JOHN P. HAVEN, BOOKSELLER. PUBLISHER, AND STATIONER, 1 99 B roadway. ^4. ./ Entered nocordiiig to Act of Congress, in the year 1841, by John P. nAVP:N, /' lu the Clerk's Omcc of the ?outhe:-n District of New- York. \ PREFACE. This Sixth Edition of the Northern Traveller is pub- lished when the previous editions have been for some time out of print; so that it seemed to be urgently demanded. The work has undergone a most thorough revision, as the numerous and important changes in the country required. The traveller will find in it a larger amount of informa- tion than at any former period, as the matter hns been much condensed, almost every page has received some ad- dition or abridgement, and large portions have been wril- te 1 anew, i'erfect accuracy is hardly to be expected in a work comprising such a number and variety of details, many of which are of a changeable nature: but exertions have been made to render it accurate, as well as replete with information and suggestions best adapted to the convenience, gratification and improvement of the mass of intelligent travellers. Notices of pla^'es or objects* appropriate to the sphere of this work, tn»nsmitted by pe''sons in any part of the country, will be attended to in future editions of the IV PREFACE. Northern Traveller ; fis the author has reaumod his ori^i- nal intention, formed after travelling abroad, of furnishing a Guide Book for the principal routes in his own country, keeping pace with the progress of society and public im- provements. i} > r lis ongi- irnishing country, ublic ivcx" »• .HfX?4YlL.y-%.\ ..« •A'. ,,y y y \i J f'nmi' V .^ * V iiy/,„jj ..y. S^ ^♦j m ' I <( << << t< GENERAL INDEX. City of New York, • • * 7 Route up the Hudson, • • • 13 " to Niagara, • • • 32 Routes to Ohio, &c. 6' r, 221 Route from Albany to the Springs, 31,74 *' to Lake George, • * ■ 88 " to CanMb, • • • 104 Tour of NetJKngland, 141 Route up Co™ecticut River, m • * 145 " from New York to Boston, • • > 166 " " Boston to the White Mountains, 186 " " Boston to Maine, • • i 203 PJnladelphia, .... • • . 223 Route to the Pennsylvania Coal Mines, . 227 Baltimore J .... • • . 220 Washington, .... • • i 215 Route to the Virginia Springs. • • 1 239 Routes from New-Orleans to Neto- York, . . 241 1^' li-: I "^ VII. US FROM NATURt:. 1. Frontispiece, View of Niagnni from below Table Rock. 5. Scenery on Mohawk River, fusing pngri 3. Ballston Springs 4. Saratoora Springs 5. Lake Genrcjo .... 6. Piiins of Ticonderocn from the east 7. The same from Mount Independence 8. Southerly view from Mount Holyokc 9. The Notch House, White Mountains l^AGiJ 35 82 84 no 100 104 156 195 MAPS Of the Roads, Canals, Railroads, ^c. PAGE General Map of the Routes in the Northern States, No. 1. Hudson River, from the mouth to Croton River, No. 2. " " to Kmgston No. 3. " " to Albany No. 4. Mohawk River to Utica, with a Profile of the Erie Canal No. 5. " " to Syracuse No. 6. Thence to Cayug:a Lake . No. 7. Thence to Canandaigua No. 8. Thence to Rochester and Batavia No. 9. Thence to Niagara . No. 10. Buffalo and its vicinity, with a Profile of the Welland Canal Noll. To Glenn's Falls, with Saratoga Springs and Battle Ground, Schenectady and Pro- file of the Champlain Canal No. 12. Lake George No. 13. Do. Northern part and Lake Champlain No. 14. Lake Champlain, northern part No. 15. St. John's, Montreal, &c. . , No. 16. Montreal Island Connecticut River, lower part . . 14 16 21 32 32 44 45 46 48 62 30 88 98 108 110 118 145 Il a pi the I dene steal Non the ands Sprii cut 1 bany pecte wher boat Fo city 1 Ot lyn t( Bost( tend( Tb Albai ty, P bush the ^ Cline THfi NORTHERN TRAVELLER. THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. Remarks to the Travtller at New- York. It is recommended to such travellers as have not formed a plan for their journeys, to turn to the general map o( the routes, page 1. He may go to Boston by the Provi- dence steamboats and railroad, or by the Stonington steamboats and railroad through Providence, or by the Norwich steamboat and railroad through Worcester, or by the New-Haven steamboat, the railroad to Hartford, and stagecoach to Worcester, or steamboat or stagecoach to Springfield railroad. Those who wish to see Connecti- cut river may take a steamboat to Hartford. For Al- bany, take a steamboat. Before 1342, a railroad is ex-* pected to be in use from Bridgeport, Con. to Albany^ when that route may be preferred by some. A steam* boat goes to Bridgeport. For Philadelphia, take the railroad line from Jersey city by crossing the Hudson from Barclay-street. Other rail-roads are to be made : one from South Brook* lyn to Greenport, east end of Long Island, to cross to the Boston railroads. The Harlem railroad is to be ex* tended to Albany, 140 miles. The proposed route of a railroad from New-York to Albany, (147 3-4 miles,) runs through Westchester coun- ty, Putnam, Dutchess and Columbia counties to Green- bush opposite Albany, and on to Troy. It passes along the valleys of the Bronx, Croton, Ten m. r. Ancram, Cline, and a branch of Kinderhook. It is nearly straight^ 9 ,' ' ■• . ! « » f 8 THE CITT or NKW-TORK. except where it approaches Hudson, and is from 15 tio» 25 miles east of the river. This route avoids the High- lands, except at a poir... where they arc only 769 feet above tide : that is, 50 miles northeast of West Point. Maximum gratle 30 feet, and locomotives can pass at 12' miles an hour. The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map of New-York and oiher cities as ho visits them. The principal objects worthy of attention will be here mentioned in order, as they present themselves to a per- son proceeding north from the southern point of the city. The Battery, perhaps the finest public walk in the Union, is the favourite retreat in warm weather. It is ex- posed to the sea breeze, and affords an agreeable shade^. and a view of the inner harbour, with part of Long Island, on the left, Governor's Island with its fort and castle, the Narrows, and Staten Island below, Bedlow's and Gib- bet Islandf, and New-Jersey beyond them, with Jersey City and Hoboken village. Castle Garden is a place of refreshment, formed of a fort, where music and fireworks are often provided in warm evenings. A fort was built on the Battery in 1623, which included all the houses. It was afterwards enlarged. Southeast of the Battery is Whitehall Slip, where are the steam-boat ferries for Staten Island (12 cents,) and South Brooklyn, (4 cents.) Washington and Greenwich- streets begin at northwest corner, extending about two miles north. There are the steamboats of the Philadelphia railroad line, and those for Providence. Broadway begins at the Bowling Green, an oval piece of ground, 140 feet by 220. Here are the Atlantic and Adelphi Hotels, and many hotels and fashionable board- ing houses above. Grace Church, on the left, stands on the corner of Rector-street, which leads to the Havre packets. Trinity Church is rebuilding. Wall-street is opposite, and has most of the banks and brokers' offices. The new U. S. Custom-house, corner of Nassau-street, is of white marble, 89 feet by 177, on the model of the Par- thenon of Athens, with two facades with Doric columnSf 32 feet high, a central ball, and a dome 62 feet in diame- tier. It will cost half a million. The New-York Exchange, entirely of Quincy Si«-^ Tilt THE CITY OF NEW-yORK. f) liite, three stories high, and a basement, covers a block, ber.wecn four streets, unci is 197 feot 7 inches on Wall- street, 144 on one sid«^, and 170 oa thu other, with a large dome abo.e, 100 feet high. This covers the circu- lar exchange room, 05 feet high, and 80 in diameter. In front is a row of 12 Ionic columns, with G more at the door. The shafts are single stones, 132 feet 8 inches long, and from 4 feet to 4 feet 4 inches in diamntor at the base, those on the wings weighing about 33 tons, and the others 35. Each cost about $5,000. The building, which is nearly complete, contains Mr. Gilpin's News Room and Packet Otfice, several insurance and other offices. The Telegraph is to be kept on the top to communicato with that on Staten Island. The great tire, in 1835. des- troyed the former Exchange, but did not cross Wall- street. It swept down to Old Slip. Proceeding up Broadway, you pass Cedar and Court- landt-streets, which lead on the left to some of the Albany steam-boats, and the ferry to Jersey City, 6 cents. (Thence the railroads lead to Newark, 25 cents, EH- zabethtown, Rahway and New-Brunswick to Philadel- phia; also to Paterson. Fulton-street leads (right) to Fulton Market, Brooklyn Ferry, (3 cents,) the Connecti- cut and Flushing steamboats, some of the Liverpool pac- kets, &c. At the corner of Vesey-street is St. Paul's Church, with an epitaph in front to Gen. Montgomery, whose re- mains were brought there from Quebec in 1818. Oppo- site is the American Museum with four stories filled with stuffed animals, &c. Ann-street leads to the rooms of the Reformed Dutch Church Missionary Society, Episco- pal Sabbath School Society; American Bible Society ; De- pository and Printing Office ; Clinton Hall, where are the Mercantile Library, (20,000 vols.) reading and lecture room, and exhibition room of the National Academy of Design; American Tract Society ; American Sunday School Union Depository ; and American Board of Foreign Mis sions. In Chatham Row are the Park Theatre and the Brick Church. The Park, (10 3-4 acres,) contains the City Hall, (216 feet by 105,) of white marble, and rear of free- stone, cost $538,734, with roonas for courts, commoa M f ir ' 10 TH^ CITY or KIW-TORK. council, mayor, governor, &c. and several portraits, and Mechanics' Institute in the basement. The alarm-bell is hung above, and the cupola commands a general view of the city. The New City Hali contains the Americau Institute of Manufactures, which holds a splendid fair and exhibition at Niblo's in September. In Chambers-street are the Savings Bank, the Arcade Baths, and the Reservoir of the Manhattan Company, which supplies some of the streets with water. Returning down Broadway to Park Place, we find Co- lumbia College, founded in 1750 as King's College, — President Duer. Behind it is the Grammar School, Professor Anthon. Above the Park, Duane-street leads on the ri^ht to the Halls of Justice, the City Prison, built of Sienito in the Egyptian style. Gothic Hall is. near Pearl-street, opposite which is the City Hospital, founded in 1769. The Society Library, comer of Leon- ard-s*reet, 1754. Franklin-stieet leads on the left to the Opera House and French Church, originally in Pine-; street, 1704. (Hudson Park is some distance north wegt from tlaa spot, 4 acres, with St. John's Church, 240 feet.) In White-street, (right from Broadway,) is the City Dispensary, 1790, with the Eye and Ear Infirmaries, 1820. Canal-street has a sewer underground, and on the right from Broadway are the Gas Light Company's works, pipes, 26 miles long, and a Jews' Synagogue. There are 10 or 11 other Synagogues, most of them recently formed by emigrants from Bavaria, &c. The Manhattan Gas Works are at the foot of Eighteenthnstreet. Above are the Circus and Tattersalls' ; above Springs street Niblo's Garden. Opposite, the New-York Lyceum of Natural History with a fine collection. The Stuyve- sandt Institute is several streets above, with the Library of the Historical Society. In Crosby-street behind Nib- lo's, are the Apprentices' Library, 1820, with 20,000 vol- umes, the School of the Mechanics' Society, a Synagogue, and the College of Physicians and Surgeons. Fourth-street leads to Washington Square, 9 3-4 acres. The New York University fronts it, 1831, Chancellor Frelinghuysen. It has a large grammar school. The de fii di w raits, and irm-bell is il view of Americau id fair and he Arcade Company, e find Co- College, — ir School, ;reet leadg ty Prison, ic Hall is. Hostpital, r of Leon- left to the jr in Pine-! from this l) the City ntirmaries, and on the ly's works, rhere are y formed Eittan Gas e Spring-; i Lyceum Stuyve- e Library hind Nib- 0.000 vol- ynagogue, 3-4 acres, hancellor ol. The tHK CITY OF NKW-YORIC. U Presbytorian Theological Seminary is above, and has the library of Leiirider Van Ess. The Marble Cemetery is in Great Jones-street, east of Broadway. The City Reservoir is in Thirteenlh-^feet. Water is raised by a steam engine from a well IV2 feet deep, and conveyed to the south in pipes, to extinguish fires without the use of fire engines. The Croton Aque- duct, 45 miles long, to supply drinkable water to the whole city, is partly made, inrt will cost 45 millions. The Retreat for Juvenile Delinquent:* is at the end of Broadway; the Deaf and Dsimb Asylum, 1817, Fiftieth- street, near the Harlem railroad, Mr. Peet principal. The Blind Asylum, 1831, Sixth Avenue near Thirty-se- cond street, Mr. Jones. The General Episcopal Theolo- gical Seminary, 1819, Ninth Avenue and Twenty-tirst street. The Lunatic Hospital is six miles noith. The Almshouse is on the East river, and hcyond is Blarkwell's Island, with the Penitentiary and Lunatic Asylum, and the Poor House Farm opposite, with the School. The Orphan Asylum, Half Orphan Asylum, Institution for Aged Indigent Females, and 17 Public Schools. Hudson river was discc^'jred in 1609, by Henry Hud- son. First settlement by the Dutch, near Alhany, 1610, to trade with the Indians in furs. (This trace yielded above $50,000 in 1632.) First fort in New-York la 1612, near the corner of Broadway and Garden-street. In 1623, a large fort on the Battery, enclosing the village, the island having been purchased. Captured by the En- glish in 1664, retaken 1673, restored 1674. First post- rider to Boston, 1673, going once in three weeks. First stagecoach to Boston, 17:23, once a month. 1765 a Con- gress of delegates met. January 1776, the American army began to assemble for the defence of the city. August 26th, the Battle of Long Island, after which the British army occupied the city till eiid of the war. Sep- tember 21st, 492 houses burnt. Evacuated by the Bri- tish army and entered by Washington, November 25th, 1783. All the churches except one had been burnt or occupied by soldiers. 1785 Congress met in the old City Hall, whore the new Custom House is. 1789 VVashini^ton inaugurated President there. Free School Society incorporated 1805. J" 12 THE CITY OF fJEVV-TORK. I > m The Great Firo Decern 10, 1835, loss about eighicew millions. The latiluao ho City Hall is 40° 42' 40" N. Longitude 74-* 1' 8" Vy.tVom Greenwich. Excursions. Numerous pleasant excursions may be made from New-York in variout) directions. Manhattan Island affords several agreeable rides ; and also Long I»U and and the neighbouring parts of New-Jersey. Brooklyn, on Long Island, opposite New-York, is the second city for size in the state, containing about 40,000 inhabitants. It enjoys a fine situation, good air, pure wa- ter, retirement, and shady streets. Th^ stranger should visit it. Carriages will take him from the ferries to any part. The view of New-York from Columbia-street, on the heights, is the finest to be found. The Lyceum, Washington-street, contains a fine lecture room, the collection of the Natural History Society, City Library, and Savings Dank. The Navy Yard, one mile northeast from it, is worthy of a visit. There is the Na-- val Lyceum, with a fine collection of natural history, &c. Greenwood Cemetery, two miles south of Brooklyn, is shady and picturesque, with sylvan lake, and a fine view from Mount Washington. You pass Gowannis Cove, the scene of most bloodshed in the battle of Long Island in 1776. The Jamaica railroad begins at the South ferry. Fort Hamilton is four miles south of Brooklyn. Fort Lafayette is on a small island below it. Opposite is Staten Island^ commanding fine views. Prince's Linn^ean Garpen at Flushing. The excur-^ sion to this beautiful garden and nursery is very pleasant. The steamboat leaves Fulton-street slip at four o'clock in the afternoon eveiy day, and affords a view of the most interesting pans of the East river, including the famous rapids at Hell Gate. The village is small, bull pleasant. The garden of Mr. Prince will supply strangers of taste and science with rare seeds, plants, flowers and trees, and has already done much to introduce useful and beautiful varieties into this country. It was first esta- blished about the middle of the last century. The four hothouses contain about 20,000 plants in pots t and the garden covers about thirty acres. The species und varieties of trees and plants amount to about 8000/ THZ HUDSON RIVER. 13 lit eighteen QO 42' 40" inn may be Manhattan lo Lung Ittl'' * Ifork, 19 the 30ut 49,000 ir, pure wa- nger should jrries to any ia-^tieet, on I fine lecture Society, City rd, one mile e i» the Na-' listory, &c< Brooklyn, is i a fine view is Cove, the ng Island in ferry. Fort jrt Lafayette aten Island, The excur-' iry pleasant. Ifour o'clock view of the Including the small, but) ily strangers flowers and le useful and 13 first esta" ints in pots f [The species about 8000^ which Is considered the most numerous collection in Ame- rica. Tlio proj)riotor exert:* hinisclf to obtain all the na- tive productions, us well as all interesiing exotics, and for j«pccimens forwarded to him he otl'ers Ui make satisfactory returns from his own collection. Thompson's History of Long Island, and the Picture of Now-Vork will bo inte- resting to trovellers of taste. Hath, Uockaway, and Gravesend, on Long Island, and L()N(J Branch, in New-Jersey, fine situations on the Beacoast, arc among the most attractive for buihing, &c. Orangk Springs, near Newark, and Scholey's Mountain, are resorts during the warm seasons, particu- larly fi)r visiters from New-York. The situations are very pleasant, in variegated tracts of country, and afford a most agreeable retreat, with fine air and good accommodations. PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON RIVER. On leaving New-York, the traveller finds himself in the midst of a fine and varied scene. The battery lies behind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams projecting beyond ; still more distant opens the p ..sage called the Narrows, with Stalen Island on the right, lead- ing to Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which is 22 miles from the city. On the west side of the bay are Bedlow and Gibbet Islands, with fortifications ; the point at the mouth of the Hudson is Powles' Hook, on which stands a neat town in New-Jersey called Jersey City ; and the village of Hoboken is seen a mile or more up the river. The hills of Wehawken appear beyond: as the boat moves rapidly on, it passes the crowded line of build- ings in Washington-street, the Ep scopal Seminary, and, at a greater distance, the Blind Institution. At Wehawken, under a ledge oi rocks facing the river, and about the distance of three miles from the city, is the spot where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel with Colonel Burr. This v as the common duelling ground for combatants from this city, and many lives were afterwards lost on the fatal spot. The Pal IS ado Ks — a remarkable range of precipices of trap rock, which begin near this place, extend up the rirer on the west side twenty miles, to Tappan, and form li FORT WASHIKdTOlt. i: .1' i n 8in<^u1ar, and in muny places an impaflsablc boundary. In some placns an old red aands^tone foundation is seen bolow : but the great mass of the rocks presents the mu- ral precipices of the trap formation, and rises fn)m thte heijifht of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. On the opposite side li Yorkville, and the route of the tmfinished Croion Aqueduct. The Lunatic Asylum, about seven miles from the city, is a larj^e building of hewn stone, occupying a command- ing situation. Harlkm Heights are a short distance further. They form an elevated ridg^o across Manhattan Island, on which a line of fortifications was thrown up during the Revolu- tion and the late war, quite over to the East river. Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is situated on the brow of the Palisadoes, more than 300 feet above the river. A village of the same name is near. Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of a high rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from New-York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washington had evacuated the city, and, subsequently to the battle of While Plains, (for which see just beyond,) had drawn off his army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington was kept gar- risoned, contrary to his advice, and was attacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Waldeckers, under Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill on the north side; Gen. Matthews on the east, with the English light infantry and guards, intended against the intrenchmenta, which reach- ed almost to the East river. Col. Sterling made a feint of crossing that river lower down, while Lord Percy with a very strong corps was to operate against the western flank. The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in pass- ing a swamp, but succeeded, with the other divisions, in driving the Americans into this fort, where they all sur- rendered, to the number of 2C00 men, including militia. They had lost very few; but the British lost about 800. Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the British crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that they took the artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the Ameri- can army. Battlk of Whitb Plains. In October, 1776, soon after the American troops had evacuated New-York, while General Washington had his army assembled at Kingi- ible boundary, dntion h seen psonts the mu- 'ises from ihte ijppMsitesideis Hon Aqueduct. I from the city, g a cornmatid- unher. They and, on which ig the Revolu- river. is situated on feet above the top of a high 12 miles from Washington to the battle ,) had drawn vas kept gar- icked in four under Gen. side; Gen. infantry and which reach - de a feint of Vrcy with a 'Stern flank. len in pass- ivisions, in ley ail sur- "ng militia. )ut 800. the British y took the the Ameri- 776, soon ork, while at Kingf- v bl US 861 i r HEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 15 bridge, and the British were in possession of the island up as far as Harlem, General Howe went up the East river, with an intention of surrounding the Americans. He left his German corps at New-Rochello, and marched for the high ground at White Plains, several miles east of the Hudson, to seize the interior road between the city and Connecticut. Washington penetrated his design, and entrenche i him- fielf on the west side of the small river Bronx, with his right on Valentine's hill, and his left on White Plains. He had garrison? near Harlem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till th'3 British approached very near ; when Washington assembled all his troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains, with the Bronx in front and on the right flank, and a mountainous region in the rear. I'he right was more ac- cessible; and General M'Dougal was sent to entrench himself on a mountain about a mile in front. On the morning of October 28th, the Biitish advanced in two columns : the right led by Clinton, and the left by Gen. Heister. The former took post on the Mamaroneck road, and the latter on the Bronx,— ^the armies h «ing a mile distant. Col. Ralle, with a Hessian regiment, fell u^on Gen. M'Dougal in flank, while Leslie attacked him in front with a brigade. The miiiiia soon fled, but the regular troops resisted until overpowered. Washington, therefore, retired to North Castle ; and soon after, securing the bridge over the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed the Hudson. Fort Independence, on the east side. Opposite, the Palisadoes are of still greater height. Dobb's Ferry, 10 miles farther Tappan Bay is from three to five miles wide, eight or nine in length. Haver- straw Bay, still larger, lies just above. Tappan, 25 miles from New-York. Here Major An- dre was executed, after a short imprisonment. Here will begin the New-York and Erie Railroad, which is to extend through Goshen, Deposit, Binghampton, Owego, Elmira, Corning, Hornellsville, and Clean, to Dunkirk on Lake Erie, 457 miles. It is thought that the whole distance from New York to Dunkirk, by a branch from the Harlem railroad, will be only 475 miles, and that it will cost but $6,000,000. Two branches are in operation, !? » i.V f i \i »:■ . I E. J ■■■■' i Fl I I ;^; il 16 STATE PRISON AT SINGS ING. -viz. the Ithaca and Owego railroad, 29 miles ; and the Corning and Blossburg, Pennsylvania, railroad, 40 miles. Tarrytown, three and one half miles. This is the place where Major Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British lines. The place was then neutral ground, as the Ameri- cans and English lay encamped above and below. The tree was recently standing under which his captors search- ed him, and the bank near by concealed thent from his view as he approached them. The State PrUon at Singsing is in a quadrangle of nearly 44 by 480ft. on the eastern shore, 33 miles from New-York. It has a double stack of cells built back to l)ack, four tiers high and 200 on each tier: in all 800. J^ine feet distance is the outer wall, which supports a gallery running all around; size of ttie cells, three feet six inches by seven feet, and two feet door way. The whole work was done by convicts, and a great pirt is of hewn stone. The system is that of the Auburn prison. The convicts are employed in quarrying marble from the hill, and in other kinds of labour. The Entrance of the Highlands, is a short distance beyond this place, and 40 miles from New York This is a region no less remarkable for the important military events of which it has been the theatre, than for the grandeur and nobleness of its natural scenery. Stony Point The little rough promontory on the left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands, •was a fortified position during the American war. The British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it again the same year. Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side, was also the site of a fort. FOHT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON, five miles further, on the west. These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, or the sixth of October, 1777. His object was to co-operate with Gen Burgoyne, at that time closely watched by Gen. Gates near Se-^toga, and to afford him an opportunity to force his way to Hudson river, by effecting adiversicm in im favour. For this purpose Sir H. Clinton had left New* '-> JVi-r/ft 3 ; and thft i, 40 miles. fhis ia the irning from the British the Ameri- elow. The (tors search- jm from hi* aadrangle of miles from uilt back to in all 800. supports a hree feet six The whole is of hewn on. marble from [lort distance kfork This ant military ban for the tory on the Highlands, war. The lost it again fSiS also the JNTON, iton, or the co-operate |hed by Gen. )ortunity to I i version in left New- //... ;,. w ^ il 'W^ 'k KEW-TORK TO ALBANY. Iv York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the fleet, and landed at Verphinck's Point. The next morning a detach- ment was sent to Stony Point, and marched ronnd in the rear of these forts, then under the command of Gen. Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 continental troops, part of whom were unfit for duty, and a small number of militia. Gen. Putnam, apprised of the landing made at Vep- planck's Point, and supposing the object of the expedition to be Fort Independence, had crosised the river, and made preparations to oppose them. He did not discover their real intentions until he had heard the firing at forts Mont- gomery and Clinton, which are near each other, and were attacked at the same moment. The fighting began be- tween four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted- til) dark, when the Americans having lost about 250 men,- the forts were surrendered ; but all the garrison who were able, about 450, effected their escape, with the governor and his brother, len. James Clinton. The British pro- ceeded to West Point, removed' the chain which had been stretched across the river to prevent the passage of their ships; and a part of the fleet, under Sir James Wallace, went up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaughan and his troops. Although they found the village defenceless, the officer's ordered it to be burnt, on the l^lh of October. The Bri- tish proceeded no further than that pi' ce ; for the news of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few days after- wards> the fleet returned to Nev/ York. Anthony's Nose. This mountain (which has a pro- file resembling the human face,) rises 1228 feet from the river, directly opposite the mouth of Montgomery Creek, looking down upon forts Montgomery and Clinton. Be- hind the latt*'r is Bloody Pond, where the bodies of those were thrown who were killed in the defence. As the steamboat proceeds up the river, West Point makes its appearance on the left hand, with the ruins of Fort Putnam elevated on a commanding eminence, a little beyond, 598 feet above the water level. Thi' view it com- mands over this wild and mountainous neighbourhood, as well as its connexion with our history, will render it wor- thy of a visit. Therp are still three or four subterraneous rooms to be seen, and the place is so often visited,, that ^ ll 18 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. f i the path is plain, and leads to most of the principal objects within it. This fortress commanded at once the river above and below West Point, and the passage into a defi. . which opens through the mountains westward. That de- file was farther defended by numerous little batteries and redoubts on the peaks around it. Kosciusko's Retreat is near this place, and the spot is still shown where he cultivated his little garden. A monument erected to him, will be seen on the rocks. West Point. This was a military position of great consequence in the Revolutionary war. A battery was erected on the extremity of the point, just over the river, to command the channel, while a strong iron chain was stretched across from the shore below, to the opposite side. On the east side of the river is Cold Spring , behind it is the West Point Foundry. There is a tine hotel on the point. The Military Academy of the United States is at West Point ; and a more delightful situation for such an institution could hardly have been selected. It is designed for the instruction of young men destined for the army ; and secondarily for maintaining the military science of the country. The Academy was established in 1802, by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the instruction of Cadets The number of pupils is confined to 250 ; and in choosing from the applicants, the sons of revolutionary officers are allowed the first claim, and those children of officers of the last war whose fathers are dead, the next. The law prohibits admission under 14 years of age. The level on which the buildings of this institution are erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the ap- pearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The libra- ry consists of a large and valuable collection of books, on the various branches of military science, which have been obtained with great assiduity and no small expense from Europe. The buildings belonging to the institution are five ; all large, and built of stone. There are, besides, brick build- ings for the officers and professors ; near the water, some old military store houses, which contain arms, &c. used in the revolution. The course of study is completed in four years, each being c em WEST POINT. 19 incipal objects )nce the river ^e into a defi. > ird. That de- e batteries and , and the spot le garden. A ;he rocks, ition of great L battery was ver the river, on chain was the opposite yoid Spring, lere is a line TED States situation for lected. It is 3tined for the litary science led in 1802, nstruction of 250 ; and in evolutionary B children of d, the next. age. stifution are has the ap- . The libra- 3f books, on h have been pense from tre five ; all brick build- k^ater, some &c. used ^earS; each being devoted to a c^ass; and inchidcs the French lan- guage, drawing, natural and experimental philosophy, c lemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, and national law, mathematics in the highest branches, and lastly, artillery and engineering. Study concludes each day at four P. M. and is sue* ceeded by the parade, wh^ch lasts till sunset. Arnold's Treachery. In September, 1780, while the British hold possession of Hudson river up to the bor- ders of the Highlands, and Gen Arnold was in command here, a correspondence was carried on by him with the British officers, on the subject of surrendering his post into their hands. To bring their designs to a conclusion, it was determined that a meeting should be h'^id. Andre was sent under cover of the night from the sloop of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw Bay, to a place which had been appointed for the conference, A man by the name of Smith had been sent on board by Arnold, under the pretence of negotiating about an ho- nourable treaty with Great Britain; and he accompanied Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Long Clove, on the west side of the river. Here they found Gen. Ar- nold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, according to ap- pointment. Daylight put it ou'„ of the power of Major Andre to- pass in safety the posts at Verplanck's and Stony Points. He was therefore obliged to retire to Smith's hoube, and change his dress for a disguise. Arrest of Major Andre. General Arnold had fur- nished him with a pass under the name of John Anderson } and on the following evening he set out by land, accom- panied by Smith as a guide. They rode that night to McKoy's after going eight or nine miles } and the next he spent at Pine's Bridge, over Croton river. Here he parted with Smith, and proceeded alone six miles, when, as he had passed the American lines, and was approaching those of the British, he was discovered by three men, wha were concealed from him behind a bank ; and one of them suddenly stepping from under a tree by the road side, seized his horse by the bridle. They found in his boots a description of the works at West Point, with returns of 3 u 20 NiW-TORK TO ALBANY. P all tho forcos of the garrison, in the hand- writing" of Arnold. This happened on the 23d of September. A messenger was immediately sent to General Washington ; and, at A.idre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold to inform him that Anderson was taken. The lat- ter messenger arrived first ; and Arnold, as soon as ho learned the truth, rushed down a very steep hank, sprang into his boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board the Vulture. His Execution. On the 29th of September a board of officers was appointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sentenced him to suffer death as a spy. Objections were made to this sentence, on the ground that Andre had beer^ introduced into the American ramp under the passport of one of our officers ; but the delivery of Arnold being mado the condition of his release, and that being refused by the British, he was kept in prison until the 2d of October, when he was hung at the town of Tappan, where his body was afterwards inteiTed. A few years since the British government sent to this country to obtain his remains, which were removed to England, and placed in the family vault of the then Prince Regent. In 1827, the corporation of New-York erected a monument over the grave of Paolding, one of his captors. At leaving West Point, the traveller will observe several remarkably high mountains on both sidej of the river, for which he is referred to the map. Putnam's Rock weis- rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June 1778, by a party of soldiers directed by Gen. Putnam. Newburgh. This is a town of considerable &ize, six miles beyond the Highlands, with some handsome build- ings. Newburgh is advantageously situated for the eye of one approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a hill which slopes handsomely to the shore. Half a mile south of the village is seen the old stone house in which Gen. Washington had his head quarters when the celebrated' " Newburgh Letters " were published. Matteawan Factory, Fishkill. It stands near the- river, and directly opposite Newburgh. -writing of . messenger 1 ', and, at to A mold The lat- soon a» ho ink, sprang im on board p a board of Andre, and 'ctions were re had beer^ passport of being made refused by of October, re his body sent to this removed to then Prince rk erected his captors. rve several e river, for Rock was by a party le aize, six fome build- eye of one hill which |e south of /hich Gen. celebrated' Is near the' m CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 21 .lollllSlllWII 1''0UGHKEEPSIE is a placfi of considerable importancp, and is sifuiilod two miles east of \ho. river. KrNOSTON. Here begins the Delaware md Hudson canal, opened in 1827. Saugerti£S. Here is a large manufacturing place es- tablished by Henry BarcUlay, Ksq. of New York. By a large stone dam on Ksopus creek is obtained a supply of ■water at a fall of nearly 50 feet, which may be twice used on great wheels. The Catskill Mountains. As the traveller proceeds, he observe*! the distant ridge of the Catskill mountains. They nowhere approach nearer to the river than eight miles, and in some places retire 15 and even 20. An excursion, to the summit of these mouritains may very properly be ranged among the principal objects in the great tour which we are just commencing. The visit may be accomplished in one day, though two or three may be agreeably spent in examining, at leisure, the grand ■and beautiful scenery of that romantic neighbourhood. There is a large and commodious house of entertainment erected at the Pine Orchard, one of the peaks of the moun- tain, about 3,000 feet above the river. It is visible from the steamboat, and the ascent to it is performed without fatigue, in private carriages or a stagecoach. The place to land for this excursion is Catskill, where begins a turnpike road to Ithaca. Taking the stage- coach here, you proceed towards the Pine Orchard, pass- ing an inn at the distance of seven miles, and then begin- ning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road, that affords much wild scenery, and many a glimpse at the surrounding country.* Five milet of such travelling l)rings th '. visiter to The Pine Oochard. This is a small plain, 3,000 feet above the river, scattered with forest trees, and furnished with an elegant house of great size, built for the accom- modation of visiters. The Hudson is seen winding from afar through its verdant valley, its margin adorned with villages, and its surface enlivened with vessels of various descriptions. Immediately below is seen a region of un- * The forests of this mountainous region furnish immRnse quantities of the bark used iu tanning leather; and many tan- >ueries are in operation in this couotj. r-i- !-| •! I ! 18 THR CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. cultivated monntaina, which is strikingly contrnstod with tho charming nsprct of rnrtiiiiy that reigns boyond, and presents uU ihc variety of hill and vale, town, hamlet and cottage. The Round Top is a summit of greater elevation to- wards the south, from which the view is more extensive. It is 3,718 feet above tho ocean. Ojj the west side of the river is seen part of the counties of Albany, (Tioene, Ulster and Orange; and on the ea^t, part of Putnam county, and all of Dutchess, Columbia and Rensselaer. The distant high land in the east be- longs partly to TaughkannUc and Saddle Mountains in Mussachusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green Moun- tains in Vermont. Lower down is discovered a range of hills in tho western counties of Connecticut. The eye embraces a tract of country about 100 miles in length, and 50 in breadth ; and a large part of it is supposed, by geologists, to have formed the bed of a great lake in some long past age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the barrier presented at the Highlands, before tho present chasm had been cut for its passage. Nearly opposite is seen tl.ci old Livingston Manor, which is one of the few great aristocratical estates exist- ing in this part of the country. It originally contained Clermont, (14,000 acres,) the Manor (146,000) and East Camp or Palatine, (6,000.) This last was settled by exiles from the Palatinate in the reign of Queen Anne. The Cascades. West from the Mountain House a path leads through the woods to the cascades, passing near two small lakes, from wh'ch the supply of water is derived. The stream flows through the woods to where the level termin ites, very abruptly, at a high and shelving preci- pice, descending into a tremendous gorge between ridges of gloomy mountains. The first fall is 175 feet, and the second 80 : both perpendicular, without a single protrud- ing rock to break the snow-white sheet. A building is erected where refreshments may be ob- tained ; and on the right is a steep path by which even ladies may descend in safety to the foot of the falls. Thelre is a cavern under the first cataract, where the shelving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and 1 , ih ap CITY OF AtnAItY. 23 throws ft (lark shiidn nrnund him, which sctii off, in the most, bofiutifiil mannf'r, iho wild scenery below. The cavern i;* f'onned by the wearing away of the sandstone rocks, while the stratum of grawacke remains unim- pair(>d. At a little distance the stream takes its second leap into a dark abys^ ; and from a rock at that place, it is seen runhing tiimultuously along over a steep and focky channel, winding between the bases of the mountains iintil it gradually sweeps away toward the south, and dia* appears among the rude scenery that surrounds it. After gratifying his curiosity and taste with scenes like those, the traveller will return to Catskill to take the next steamboat; and by making the necessary ar- rangements, he can proceed up the river with very little delay. The City or Hudson, .5J miles above Catskill. This is one of the largest and most important towns on the river, and occupies a commanding eminence on the east- ern bank, with several ranges of large stores built near the water's level. On the brow of the ascent from the water is a favourite promenade, from which a charming view is enjoyed of the river and the opposite Catskill mountains. The western shore is variegated and beautiful, and contains the village of Athens. The railroad leads from Hudson to West Stockbridge, Mass. The Union road to New-Lebanon is a good one, and passes tlirough a varied, well cultivated and agreeable tra't of country. There are extensive manufactories in this vicinity. Claverack is a pleasant village a few miles from Hud- son. The Great Falls is a romantic cascade about nine miles from Hudson, near the old post route. ALBANY, 145 miles from New-York. Routes from Albany. Stagecoaches run daily towards all the four cardinal points ; and six or eight fre- quently set off in the same direction. Indeed the num- ber is often much greater than this when the full crowd 3* u LKBANON SPUlNGfl. , ■■ii ■\ of travellers is pressi.g towards this city. By steady travelling, you may go to Bufiulo in three days, 296 miles. Two or three steamboats go daily to New-York ; and boats go on the canal. The circuit and delays occa- sioned by the locks, make the passage to Schenectady consume a whole day The freight boats of the Trans- portation Companies are very numerous, and have been fitted up very comfortably for passengers, and convey them at a less price than the regular packets. For the route to Niagara, see page 32. For other routes, &c. see itidex. The Capitol, or State House, occupies a commanding; position at the head of State-street, and contains the Assembly and Senate Chambers, the Supreme Court, the County Court, &c. &c. It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 high. On the opposite side of the river is Greenbush, famous for more than a century as a canton- ment ; and the deserted lines of eutrenchment are clearly seen from the State House. This is the tirstpoint worthy of notice, connected with the colonial wars against Can- ada. At Greenbush, the troops supplied in quotas by the eastern colonies, used to meet those of New Yoik; and hence they proceeded, under commanders appointed by the British government, against their enemies m the north. The Academy and Female Institute are large in- Btitutions for the higher branches of education. LEBANON SPRINGS, 26 miles east from Albany. New-Lebanon Springs is one of the most delightful resoits for strangers, in point of situation, being in this respect incomparably superior to either of the great watering places, Saratoga and Ballston. Among all the places which might have been selected for an agreeable residence in the warm seasons, and calculated to please a taste for the softer beauties of nature, none perhaps could have been found more eligible than that we are about to describe. The village of New-Lebanon is situated in a little valley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather spurs from two ranges of high ground, descending with a rich and I LEBANON 8PRIKGS. 25 By steady I days, 296 New-York ; deluys occa- Schenectady r the Trans- d have been and convey ,8. For the routes, &c* 3onimanding contains the e Court, the length, 90 in 5 of the river as a canton- t are clearly point worthy against Can- uotas by the V Yoik; and ppointed by nies in the •e large in* n Albany. jt delightful 3ing in this the great long all the n agreeable d to please ne perhaps at we are in a little [spurs from la rich and graceful slope on every side to its borders. The valley is almost a perfect level, which contrasts agreeably with the bold sides of the uplands, son^e of which are divested of their forests, and ornamented with cultivated fields and farms, preswiting a rich variety to the eye wherever it turns. On the side of a hill about two miles east fi*om the village, and about half way to the summit of the ridge, issues out a Spring of clear warm water, which, although pO;ses3ed of no strong mineral qualities, has given the place its celebrity ; and there stands a fine and spacious hotel, to which the visiter will direct his course. In corning from the west, the Shaker Village opens just beyond the last turnpike gate ; and on approaching the hotel, it is better to take the road which turns off to the right, as the direct road up the hill is very steep and laborious A little arbour will be observed on the acclivity of the hill above the house, the path to which lies through the garden ; and there an uninterrupted view will be enjoyed over the surrounding landscape. A still more exten- sive one may be obtained from the summit of the hill, by following the road for a considerable distance up, and then turning off into the fields. But the former point of view will be most frequently taken by visiters, on account of the facility of access. On the southeast is the road to Northampton; southwest, the most exten- sive scene, and the road to the Shaker Village ; west, villaffe of New-Lebanon, and road to Albany and Troy; northwest, the side of a fine sloping hill, well cultivated, and near at hand. Distances. — To Albany, 26 miles ; Troy, 27. To Hart- ford, 69, Hudson, 28. The waters of the Spring are abundant, and much esteemed for bathing, always keeping the temperature of 72^ Fahrenheit, although they cannot be supposed to possess any mineral virtues, as may be inferred from an examination of the following analysis given by Dr. Meade, and quoted by Professor Silliman: Two quarts of the Lebanon water contain ■ : ( • 20 tEBANON SfftlNOJ. ?[ 'II ':| Mariatc of Hmo, 1 grain. Muriate of soda, 1^ Sulphate of limo, 1^ Carbonate of do. ^ Of Aeriform Pluids* Nitrogen gas, 13 cubic itit Atmospheric air, 8 do. 5 grains. 21 The Lebanon water is therefore purer than most natU' ral waters, and purer than those in the vicinity, which flow from the same hill. It resembles very much the Buxton water in England, though it is not quite so Warm; and the Bristol water is another example of tepid water almost entirely without mineral qualities. Pro^ fessor Silliman compares the scenefy about Lebanon Springs to that of Bath in England. The liouse at the Springs is very large, commodious and elegant ; and has accommodated 300 persons at one time. It stands close by the spring, and is furnished With baths supplied with the water. The old house mea- sures 90 feet, and the new one 120 feet long. They stand in the form of an L, with a fine piazza runs along them both, measuring 220 feet. From New-Leban'»n Springs to Troy, there is a very good road, through a variegated country. Distances as follows: to Nassau, 16 miles; thence to Troy, 11. From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and a stage- coach goes thither. The following is a table of distances on the road to Boston : Pittsfield 7 miles, Hinsdale 9, Peru 4, Worthington 6, Chesterfield 6, Northampton 13, Hadley 3, Amherst 4, Belchertovvn 7, Ware 6, Western 8, Brookfield 6, Spencer 7, Leicester 11, Worcester 6, Framingham 10, Boston 21 — 134. The Shaker Village, a few miles from the Springs, is an an object of attention to most visiters. The village itself presents a scene of great neatness and beauty, as it is situated on a beautiful level, and laid out with the utmost regularity Ihe fields are divided by right lines, fenced with the most substantial materials, and cultivated with great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading principle with the society, to allow of no private property ; all the possessions of those who join them are thrown into the common stocky and submitted at onco to their peculiar 1 I I i A CITY OF ALBANY. 27 i cubic Wi i do. L most natU" iniiy, which y much the ot quite so I pie of tepid lities. Pro^ tut Lebanon commodious rsons at one is furnished \ house mea- They stand , along them ?re is a very istances a» 11. nd a stage- of distances )rthington 6, 3, Amherst irookfield 6, lingham 10, the Springs, The village beauty, as lut with the right lines, [d cultivated |ng principle ;rty ; all the '11 into the leir peculiar «ystem of life and government. Celibacy they insist upon as indispensable ; and they profess to banish the love of wealth and ambition, as well as luxury in all its degrees, from all their territories. The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who came from England some years ago, and established a small *' fam- ily," as they call it, which has been suixeeded by various similar institutions in different parts of the country. They regard that woman as nearly equal to the Saviour of the world ; and themselves as the only persons who have received that spiritual light which is ne- cessary to understand and practise the duty of man, that is, to renounce the pleasures of the world, and, by a life of self-denial, present a living testimony against error and wickedness. Their dress is ])lain, and their worship con- sists principally in a strange and disagreeable kind of dancing, whence they have their name, accompanied with a monotonous song. Some of their most experienced and perfect members, pretend to ** speak with tongues," heal diseases with a touch of the hand, and perform other miracles like the apostles. They consider the marriage contract as dissolved on joining the society. They pay great attention to the raising of garden seeds in most of their villages, as well as to several of the neat- er branches of manufacture, and derive from both a very handsome income, by making sales at home and in differ- ent parts of the country. Whoever has an opportunity to see this singular people, will probably feel gratified with their neatness, industry, and economy, but will perhaps leave the place with pity for some, and suspicion of others. The original settlement or family, is at Niscayuna, above Albany. ALBANY. The Albany Basin. The northern and western ca- nals unite at the distance of 8| miles from Albany, and terminate here, at a large basin, 4000 feet long. It has two or three handsome bridges, one with a draw to allow a passage for sloops, which leads from the foot of State- street. The pier which encloses the basin on the river fiide, is built of logs, and wide enough for a spacious l%:.l .mi k 1 28 ROUTES FROM ALBANT. li- streot. It is a place of depo3it for vast quantities of lumber. NORTH ROUTE FROM ALBANY. m ,'if . .: ' From Albany to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, the traveller may take the railroad route throuo^h Schenecta- dy, or ride to Troy, and take the railroad thence through •Lansingburgh nnd Waterford, which joins the latter at Bullston. For Luke Champlain, take a canal packet at Trf)y. For the west, a series of railroads to Buffalo is partly finished as far as Cariandaigua, 250^ miles. These are under different companies. At the other extremity of the line the Buffalo and Rochester railroad is in use to Ba- tavia, 32 miles. Description of a Canal Packet Boat, The length is 60 or 70 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the din- ing room, where two rows of tables are set. At night, mattresses are s?pread on the seats each side, and another row above them on cots suspended from the roof. The ladies are accommodated with berths in the cabin, which is usually carpeted, hung with curtains, and in other re- spects more handsomely furnished. A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will serve to make the time pass agreeably, even if the travel- ler be a stranger, or the weather not inviting. In many places, the view from the deck is highly interesting ; but it cannot be too often recommended to the stranger to be- ware of standing on deck when approaching a bridge, and never to expose the head or hands out of a window. Rensselaerwyck. a fine estate with its respectable old mansion house, about a mile north of t!je centre of Albany is worthy of particular observation, as the seat of the late Hon. Stephen Van Rensselaer ; who bore the respected old Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is of im- mense value, extending ten miles along ihe river, and double that distance east and west ; emoracing besides, a fine tract on the Black river, &c. It was formerly en- tailed, and secured by law to the oldest son of the family. U. States Arsenal, 5 | miles, at Watervleit. The i^round occupied by the arsenal extends from the •,5 TROT. 2» uantities of Y. Springs, the Schetiecta- nce through he latter at al packet at lo is partly These are extremity of in use to Ba- rhe length is ■d to the din- t. At night, and another ! roof. The cahin, which in other re- &c. will if the travel- In many resting ; but anger to be- bridsje, and ndow. pectable old e of Albany It of the late espected old e is of im- ) river, and ;ing besides, brmerly en- the family, eit. s from the •S road near the river, back to the tow path of the canal. The muskets are partly pucked in boxes, and partly ran<;od upright, with fixed hnyrinets, in compact order ; and pre- sent an appearance truly formidable. Thousands of pistols are hun^ over head ; those in the alternate linos standing different ways ; and swords with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally on wire hooks. The walls bear several devices formed of swords, pistols, &c. inge- niously arranged. This is the principal depot of arms and equipments in the northern states. The pajsngps and staircases are hung with drums, &c. On the ground floor are a few pieces of artillery, ^.nd va- rious sizes of shot, shells, &c. &c. In the yard are two ranges of buildings. That on the north is devoted to work shops for the repair of arms, manufacturing locks, &c. The buildings on the south side are occupied by smiths and curpei.tcrs. Behind these is a handsome flower and fruit gaiden : the kitchen garden being on the north side of the grounds. lu the yard are a number of cannon, &c. There are 4 medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all taken at Saratoga; 4 medium 12 pounders and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown; two long antique pieces and one 8 inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old I' rench 4 ponnders and 14 guns, sent by King Louis to the Conti- nental Congress in the revolution. These are nil of bra^s and most of them highly ornamented. The Firnch guns presented by the king, bera each an individual name for- "w ird, and the inscription •" Ultima ratio regum^^ — (the ]&L-i argument of kings.) There are also 3 or 4 howitzers cast in New York and Phi- iddelphiain the revolution, some of the oldest specimens of Buch manufacture in this country. They bear the letters U. C. for United Colonies. Troy. On the opposite side of the river, is a very handsome town, with fine hills in the rear, the most pro- minent of which has received the name of Mount Ida, to- correspond with the classic appellation of the place. — There is a good horse ferry, which helps to render the town^ a great thoroughfare during tjie travelling season. The Dam, Basin and Viaducts at Troy are expensive works.- The railroad to Baiiston meets the Schenectady and. Saratoga railroad. ■^i^W ■lif 30 TROT. M: Sandy Lake is 10 miles southwest, Nassau 8 i.iore, vil lagp of New-Lebanon 12 miles further, and Lebanon Springs 2 moie. On Mount Ida, tho hill east of Troy, is a fine succes- sion of water falls, on two streams, the Poestenkill and the Wynantskill. One of them has cut its way in some places to a great depth, and takes three or four perpen- dicular leaps at short intervals of only a few yards. The road to New^Lebanon Springs leads near the place, which is worthy of attention for its picturesque character. Mount Ida. The view from the top of this hill, and still more from the mountain behind it, is very extensive and beautiful. The Academy for young ladies Is a very respectable institution — long directed by Mrs. Emma Willard. Troy. Very fine packet boats ply on the canal from Troy to Whitehall, letting out early in the morning, and arriv- ing before night. This mode of travelling is recommend- ed on account of convenience, and the good opportunity it affords of viewing the battle-ground of Saratoga or Behmis's Heights, the field of surrender, &c. Hydroatatie Lock, In order to prevent fraud in the collection of toll, one of these works has been constructed at Troy. They are commonly called weigh-locks. The chamber is on the same level with the canal, and is filled from it by a paddle gate. On a level below the chamber is a receptacle, into which the chamber can be emptied ; and from this the water can be discharged. After an empty boat has been once weighed, she \» numbered, and her weight is registered at the several hydrostatic locks. The opportunity for looking around on every side is much better enjoyed in a canal boat than in a stage- coach, or even a private carriage, although it sometime* happens, that the road commands more extensive views than the canal. The immediate scene from the latter, however, will usually be found the most agreeable ; for a smooth sheet of water, with level and often grassy banks, is a more pleasant sight than a long stretch of a muddy or sandy highway. Besides, it is always free from the inconvenience of dust, which frequently renders the roadsin this part of the country extremely ur rcmfortable. The Double Locks just below the junction of the iiOTrh'' REMARKS ON THE C4NAL. 31 ' i.iore, vil [ Lebanon ne succes- enkill and ly in some ur perpen- irds. The ace, which ter. is hill, and ^ extensive •espectable ird. from Troy and arriv- ecommend- portunity it iratoga or aud in the :;on8tructed cks. canal, and below the iber can be irged. led, she is- he several ery side is n a stage- sometimes isive views the latter, cable ; for ten grassy tretch of a; ways free tly renders ymfortable. i the norths ern and western canals, arc built of marble from Westches* ter county. The Junction, 8^ miles from Albany, is where the Northern and Western Canals meet and unite. To this spot the canal has been of a greater width than either of the branches will be found to be. The Northern Canal runs to Whitehall, Lake Champlain, with locks, a dis- tance of 63i miJes, passing through Waterford, Half- moon, Stillwater, near Behmis's Heights, (14 miles from Waterford,) with the battle-grounds of General Bur- goyne, Fort Hardy, where he surrendered. Fort Miller,. Fort Edward, and Fort Anne. The Erie or Western Canal extends to Buffalo, on Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. It has 8*) locks, which raise and lower the water 688 feet in all. The- principal points where the most labour and expense were required, are the following: The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy, — the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts on which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long Stone Wall and Locks at Little Falls, together with the beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, — the great Embankment at Victor, where for two miles the boats pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Ge- nesee at Rochester, — the five double combined locks at Lockport,. and the long pier at Black Rock. At the nine Locks, the road to Waterford leaves the Erie Canal on the west, and the Champlain Canal on the east ; and crosses the Mohawk River below the Co- hoes Falls. There is a very fine view of the locks, the riv- er, and the falls, from the road which runs along the south bank of the river, 140 feet high, between it and the canal. CoHoEs Falls. This is the great Cataract of the Mo- hawk River. The height of the fall is 62 feet. The banks are mere walls Qi stratified rock, rough, and some- times hollowed out benoath, rising about 140 feet above th& river for a great distance below the falls. At first view the cataract appears almost as regular as a mill-dam ; but on a nearer approach, the ledge of rocks over which the water is precipitated is found extremely irregular and broken, Many fine fish are caught at the br uom. li 32 SCHINICTADY. v;r .;• ..l! ScHENECTADt is One of the oldest settlements In the state, having been occufiied as a little frontier fortress before the year 1665, when it Was attacked by a party of French and Indians from Canada, and burnt, and many of the inhabitants murdered. This party was designed! against the Five Nations ; but being much worn down with travelling in the winter, they fell on Schenectady. Union College is conspicuously situated a little out of town. Dr Nott is president of this highly respectable institution. The traveller now enters a region of peculiar interest m the history of the state, and indeed of the country. The first settlement of Albany by the Dutch, (in 1610',) was made with the intention of trading with the Iroquois, or Five Nations of Indiars, who occupied the territory west of it. These were stationed in the following order : the Mohawks, Oneidas, Cayugas, Onondagas and Senecas or Onondowachwas as they called themselves. The French in Canada often endeavoured to detach these tribes from the Dutch, and subsequently from the English, but with- out success. They carried on a trade with the Dutch and the En- glish, very valuable to the latter. In the French wars in the first half of the last century, and stiU later, they aided the English with scouts and soldiers, and' often suffered severely for their faithfulness. In the Revolution, the Americans wished to persuade them to remain neutral: but some of them were drawn off to the British interest by Sir John Johnson, who resided at Johnstown ; and thus the region between Schenectady and the most distant part of the state at that time settled by white men was, for several years, ravaged by war. Bodies of Indians, led by British officers, frequently came from Canada by forced marches, and falling by surprise upon the settlements, burned the buildings, carried off or destroyed' the pro- perty, and killed* or captured the inhabitants. A line of scattered villages then lying on and near the route of the present railroads, roads and canals, several times suffered in this manner; and the enemy often crossed that line, and penetrated more than once as far as the Valley of Wyoming in Pennsylvania. Among the most melancholy eventi caused by war in- lents in the tier fortread y a party of , and many as designed down with Iv. little out of respectable r interest in jntry. The 1610,) was Iroquois, or rritory west order : the Senecas or rhe French tribes front 1, but with- ,nd the En- ich wars in they aided en suffered lution, the in neutral; ish interest I ; and thus listant part n was, for ans, led by by forced 5ttlement!», i' the pro- A line of )ute of the 33 suffered that line, Valley of by war in* . 1 si. ■■ < ' ■im n r»» ,1 t .'» ) 0' l»y m ants furnisi tliey midiui Alban] the rnl SchI sideral railri may this pi ri*—iihwm.»i . III! ROUTS TO NIAOARA. 33 tlw'9 part of the Union was the destruction of Scheneftndy l>y the French and Indians m the yt'ar 1665. The inhabit^ ants were disatfectcd t»)ward8 the troops, who had beea furnished them for protection, and were so secure that they disreganiod all precautions, and, being attacked at midnight, were easily overcome. Many of them tied to Albany in great distress over the inhospitable plain which the railroad crosses. Schenectady, 15 miles from Albany, is a town of con-* siderable size, at a point where the Krie Canal and the railroad meet ihe Mohawk. Those who have leisure may be pleased with the canal route between Albany and this place, as it twice crosses the river on aqueducts, and passes the Cohoes Falls, (70 feet high,) and a tine display of nine double locks below it. FROM SCHKNECTADY '.O VTICA. By the Canal, 79^^ miles. Rotterdam Flats - - 3 miles. Flint Hill ... 8 Fort Hunter - - - 10 North of the canal, and on the bank of the Mohawk, is the place where this little fort formerly stood. Like most of the places of defence built in this state during the revolution and the French wars, it was small, and fi;ted only for resisting such little bands of enemies as used to approach the settlements on this frontier. Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mohawk Indians ; and there is still to be seen a chapel built by Queen Anne, near the beginning of the last century, for the use of that nation. It is known by the name of Queen Anne's Chapel. Tribe's Hill, (called by the corruption of the German neighbours, Tripe's Hill,) is a fine eminence crossed by the stage-road. On its summit was formerly the principal fort and village of the Mohawks. This tribe, being tho iTjiost eastern of* the Five Nations," was most known by the Indians of New-England, whose bitter enemies they ■were. At the time when Massachusetts was first settled, they governed the country as far east as Connecticut Rivejr. The fort on this hill was once taken by surprise by the French. The railroad lies at its base, ' \l li ■' .t II lit II I J ! I it h i h' : ; :l ill r. i hi 34 SCHOHARIE CKEXK. Schoharie Creek. 1 mile. Here is a collection of several very interesting works, formed for the convenient passage of boats across a broad and rapid stream. A guard lock preserves the water in the canal from rising or falling, and the current of the creek is set back by a dam a little below, nearly to the same level. The dam is con- structed in a manner best calculated to resist the pressure of the current in floods, and when increased by the ice. It has a bioad foundation and a narrow top ; and it is built so as to present a-i angle against the middle of the current. An ingenious invention has been devised for drawing boats across the creek by machinery. A wheel turned by a horbc moves a rope, which is stretched double across, and is carried round a wheel on the other side; a line attached to this draws the boats, they being kept in their cou. c by another line, which slides upon a long rope stretched cross the creek on the other side of the boats. Ca!;(^hnawaga, 4§ miles. The village of Johnstown is situated at the distance of four miles north of the canal.** The railroad passes it. * At Johnstown, on the road, are two f.ne houses, built of stone, standing at the distance ofa mile from each oihei. They were erected hy Sir VV illiam Joltnson and his family, as this tract of country whs the place of his residence, and formed a part •of his va.^t and valuable estate. There was originally a tliird house, sintilariy built, aiul at the interval of another mile: but that was consumed by ^rc. Cot. Guy Johnson, and Col. John Johnson, (sons of Sir WMJam,) inh&liited two of them until the revolution- ary war ; when, having attached themselves to the British inte- rest, they removed into Canada, and their estates wereconfiscated. Colonel John afterwards came down with a party of French and Indians, attacked the town., and made prisoners many of his old friends and neighbours. Sir William Johnson, who make.s so conspicuous a figure in the history of the state about the time of the French war, was born in Ireland, in 1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitation of hirt uncle. Sir Peter Warren, who had acquired a large fstate here through his wife Sir William became well acquainted with the Indian language and manners, and acquired a greater influ- <!nce over them than any other white man ever possessed He rose from the station of a private soldier to the rank of a General and commanded at Lake George in 1755. although, as will hereaf- ter be seen, the title which he there received was redly merited by Gen. Lyman. July 25, 1759, he tonk Fort Niagara, nnd iu 1769 went to join (ren. Amherst at Oswego, and assisted in the •capture of Moutreal. He died aad was buried at bis seat July 7, m .Si, ■1 Jiit-!'{ >MS' .-1 '<■ w!» -, ;»' ilir^ ' n ll i r. 1 I ( ' ^ y \^ 'i'' y ROUTE TO WIAOiRA* 35 Aktkopty's Nose, 7| milrs. This is a high and pro- mitteiil hill, riding abruptly on the southern bank of the river. On the top is a remarkable cavern, wh'oh extends downwards to a great depth, with several apartments of considerable size. Thia hill is represented in one of the plates; but the view is taken from a spot west of it. The spot is quite picturesque, and presents a remarkable assemblage of interesting objects: t'le Mohawk River, winding through a narrow valley, with the turnpike on the north side, the canal and a country road on the south; the whole enclosed bv rough and elevated hills. There is every appearance of a rent m the hills having been made by a strong current of water; and geologists consider them as having originally been a barrier to a great lake which was thus gradually drained. Canajoharie Crkek and Village, 5 miles. Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a sfnall village, belong- ing to a town inhabited by the descendants of Germans. It occupies the site of Old Fort Plain. The German lan- guaijo, much corrupted, is spoken here. This little fort was surprised by captain Butler in the revolutionary war, on his returning from burning Cherr/ Valley ; and here he committed similar atrocities. Dam on the River ^ and. Feeder for the Canals 4 miles. The Mouth op East Canada Creek, on the opposite side of the Mohawk. Near that place, Capt. Butler met a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on his way back to Oneida Lake and the Oswego. He had crossed the river stimewheri below, and while lingering a little in the rear of his troops, was overtaken near the mouth o( the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship with the Americans Seeing them preparing to kill him, he begged for his life; hut they only replied ^* Sherry Valley!''^ and tomahawked Uim on the spot. 1T74, at the age of 60, very rich, in consequence of the inerAssad Value of his exteusiv*' estate after the French war. This budd- ing was erectRd in 1773, and stouds nearly a iliilo westward from tha viliaga. Itii called the Hail. 4* 7' ■' v' \m w* ^1 36 tITTtX FA,LL9. Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. This was the principal defensive position of that famous nation of Indians, noW entirely scattered and lost. Here is an old chapel erected for their use. Little Falls. The country presents a varied sur- face, and increases in interest on approaching Little Falls, which is the most romantic scene on the course of the Erie Canal. On reachmg a little open me^'^dow surround'- ^\ by hills, where the views open upon cultivated fields and a few farm houses, the Mohawk will be found flowing below, on tlie right; while on the oppo'*te side, at the foot of the hills and on the verge of the f>v est that covers them, the great road is seen, after having been lost to the view for a long lime. The road, river, canal, and railroad meet again at the head of the valley ; for there is butone passage, and that so narrow as hardly to afford room for them all. This is a deep cut through a cham of lime- stone and granite hills, doubtless torn away in some former age by the force of water. If the chain were again filled up it would throw the water back, and form an immen^se lake, such as is supposed to have once ex^ isted west of this place, and which, by overflowing its bounds, in process of time wore away the litncsrone stra- ta> and cut deep into the hard granite, until a mere river succeeded, and the fine alluvial plains above, called the German Flats, were left dry. The stranger should, by no means, neglect the view of this place. If he reaches it early or late in a pleasant day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the beauty of the scene will be redoubled. On the north bank of the rive-, the road climbs along the side of the rocks, where there is baroly room for its passage A great part of the way it is almost overhung by rocks and trees on one side, while on the other is a precipice of granite, cut down by the force of the water in perpendicular shafts, originally formed by drills, made by loose stones whirled round in the current. The same appearance e.xtends to the islands and rocks in the channels, many of which appear quite inaccessible, with their ragged and perpendicular sides overhung by dark evergreens, whose shade seems the more intense from its contrast with the white rapids and cas- ROUTK TO NIAGARA. 3r principal ms, noW I erected ried sur* tie Falls, 36 of the urround* ,ed fiplds i flowing le, at the at covers )st to the j railroad s butone room for of lime- in some lain were and form once ex- iwing its one stra- lere river silled the B view of pleasant jeauty of k of the 8, where ft of the >ne side, own by riginally ound in islands r quite |ar sides be more nd cas- tades below. In some places the road is protected by immende natural battlements, formed of massy rock- which have been loosened from above, and planted them- selves on the brow of the precipice. On the south side of the river runs the canal, support^ cd by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, constructed at great ex- pense, and rising from the very channel of the Mohawk. The wildness of the surrounding scenery contrasts no less with the artificial beauty of this noble work, than the violence and tumult of the Mohawk, with the placid and silent surface of the canal, or the calmness and security with which the boats glide along the side of the moun- tains. The traveller in a boat may step on shore and walk along the tow paths, as there are five more locks a mile above. 7 he wishes to stop a few hours to view the scene more at leisure, the village of Little Falls is only half a mile from that place, where is a large and comfort- able inn, with cars, boats and coaches passing very frequently. If he intends to stay but a few hours, it is recommended to him to have his baggage left at a little tavern on the canal, where it can be readily transferred to another vehicle. The Aqueduct across the Mohawk is near the Glosks \ end is considered the most finished specimen of mason work on the Ime of the canal, though much inferior in size to that over the Genesee at Rochester. It conducts a supply of water from the old canal, formerly built for boats to pass the falls, and communicates also with a large basin on the north bank. It passes the narrow channel of the river with hree beautiful arches, which are covered with a calcareous cement roughened by little stalactites, formed by the water that continually drips through the stones. Stones, twigs of trees, &c. on which the water falls, are soon found incrusted with a similar substance. The channel here shows part of the old lime- stone strata, with the more durable granite rocks laid bare below. This neighbourhood is interesting to the geologist, abounding in organic remains, &c. but the ordinary tra- veller will be more pleased with specimens of the beauti- ^2 ^m' r-.9 i } f II 38 VttCk, n '! ,i; ^• i- fill little rock-crystals, (quartz,) which are foand on (h« hills about a mile distant from the village. They are per' feet in thsir fornix terminating with two pyramids ; and are so loosely imbedded in a sandy rock, aa to be washed uut by the rains in considerable numbers. There are mills of various kinds at this place. On leaving Litilc Falls, the canal enterA upon a beau" tiful meadow of hne soil, and a smooth surface; through which the Mohawk winds in a placid and gentle current, enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the distance of three miles we are in the level region called the Ger-' man Flats, famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, wha are almost all of German extraction, still preserve their language, and many of the customs of their ancestors ; and though often laborious and provident farmers, are httle inclined to those improvements in learning or the useful arts, which distinguish so large a portion of the state. T^^e scenes presented along this part of the canal, bear a resemblance to some of the meadows of the Con- necticut, although of inferior size, and of more recent settlement. HiSHKiMBR. This village is situated about 7^ mile» beyond, and a mile north of the canal, on a semicircular plain ; the circumference of which is traced by the Mo- hawk, and the diameter by the railroad. It derives it» name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there wiH be more to say at Home. The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Trenton Falls, and join the canal at Utica ; or go first from Utica< The Long Level begins at Lock No 63, nearly six miles west of Herkimer It is the longest reach on the canal without any interruption by locks, extending to Sa- lina, a distance of 69|| miles, 400 feet above tide. Utica* This is one of the largest and most important of the western towns Hotels , Bagg's, Canal Coffee- House, Franklin, City Hotel, National. Public buildingSf &c. 3 Batiks, 16 Churches, Female Institute, High School, Academy, Reading Room, and Lilirary of the Y. Men's Association, (open to strangers.) Lyceum, &c. The streets are broad, straight and commodious ; and the principal ones well built, with rows of brick stores^ ROUTE TO NIAGAi.*. 39 ire per- ls ; and washed current, iistance he Ger^ Us, wha ve their cestors ; lers, are g or the n of the le canaly .he Con- i recent f^ miles icircular the Mo- ;Fives it9 I more to Trenton Utica< !aily six |h on the ig toSa« iportant Coffee- lildingSf le, High |y of the &c. s; and storear •cwBlejrant dwelling houses. The bridge over the Mo- hawk, is at the end of the street. Hamilton College is situated near the village of Clint )n, 9 miles from Utica. Trenton Falls. This most interesting vicinity is •well worthy the attention of every person of taste, being justly considered, one of the finest natural scenes in this part of the country. From this house yoia descend a long stair case down the steep bank of ihe West Canada Creek, which has cut a frightful chasm through a rocky range, m some places 150 feet deep, and is seen gliding swiftly by throuj;\j a declining channel below. The chasm continues for four miles, and presents the greatest variety of cascades and rapids, boiling ^ools and eddies. The passage or chasm between the rocks is everywhere very narrow, and in some places barely of sufficient breadth tti permit the stream to pass; while the rocks rise perpendicularly on each side, or sometimes even project a considerable dis- tance over heaid, so that it has been often necessary to form an artificial path by means of gunpowder. These places appear dangerous, but only require a little caution and presence of mind to insure \he safety of the visiter, as strong iron chains are hxed into the rock to offer him security. There are four principal cataracts, between the staircase by which you first descend and the usual limit of an excursion, 'A'hich is about a mile and a quar- ter up the stream. The first of these you discover soon after the first turning, and is about 40 feet high; with the greatest fall towards the west The top of the rock on the right side is 150 feet high by line measurement. The second is a regular fall, much like a milldam, about 8 feet high; the third a remarkably striking and beautiful one; and the fourth rather a succession of cascades, but presents many most agreeable varieties. Near the foot of this a melancholy accident occurred in 1827. A lady from New -York was drowned by slipping from a low bank ; unseen, although her friends and parents were near her. The ear is stunned by the foils, the rocks ■are slippery and great caution is recommended. About a mile and a quarter from the house, is a small u 40 FORT STANWIX. building erected for the supply of refreshment ji. A singu- lar species of tree is found in this neighbourhood, called the white cedar, with drooping branches, which often grow to such a length aa to descend far below the root, towa,rds the water. The rocks here are all a dark lime- stone, of p. very slaty structure, and contam at^tonishing quantities of petrified marine shells and other animals of an antediluvian date, such as Dilobitos, Trilobites, &c. There are several other cataiacts besides those already mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger might spend some time here very agreeably in observing them fiit leisure, and in catching the fine trout with which the creek abounds. The house is commodious, and has the reputation of furnishing one of the best tables in this part of the state. From Utica to Syracuse, by the canal, 63| miles, Whitestown 4, Oriskany village 7, Rome on the right 8, Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. S. Arsenal 1, Oneida Creek, 14, Lock 54, end of the long level 29, Sy- racuse |. These places are noted in succession. Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in this part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. All this trac^ of country was a perfect wilderness in 1785, when Mr. White, from Middletown, in Connecticut, first took up his abode hero and lifted an axe against the forest. The traveller may keep this in mind as he pursues his journey, and the progress of civilization will appear more astonishing. Siege of Fort Stanwix. On the road from Whites- town to Rome, is the spot where Gen. Herkimer sat down under a tree after receiving his mortal wound. In 1777, Gen. Burgoyne sent between 1500 and 1800 men, many of them savages, under Baron St. Leger, from Montreal, by Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix ; and then to go down the Mohawk jto Albany. Early in August they arrived at Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, commander ot the mihtia of Tryon county, was sent against them with 800 men. His men insisted on going on, to meet a detachment under Sir J. Johnson, sent ont by St. Leger; but at the first shot they fled. A few remained and fought, and Gen. H. wa» mortally wounded. Congress voted a monument to hit mtmory, but it has never been erected. Tho America^ ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 41 called I often le root, I limc- nishing lals of &c. already might r thorn lich the has tho his part [ miles, right 8, jenal 1, 29, Sy- s in thif nt. All n 1785, ut, first forest, lues his IT moT& Whites- at down 1777, nany of real, by o down rived at mihtia ^ men. it under rst shot H. wa» to hi» .ericftl;^ lost 160 killed, and 240 wounded and prisoners. [Two miles below Fort Stnnwix the canal commences between the Mohawk and Wood Creek.] Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E of the centre off the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows of pali- sades, and a block house in the middle. It was drfended against St. Leger, by Col. Ganzevoort Lieut. Col. Willet drove him off by a sortie, and plundered the camp. He was intercepted on his return, but cut his way through, and returned without the loss of a man. VVhen Sir J. Johnson returned from the battle with Gen. Herkimer, the fortress was summoned, but refused to surrender ; and Col. Willet and Lieut. Stockton left the fort to inform the people towards Albany, of its situation. They crept through the enemy's camp, and got to Gen. Schuyler's head qtiarters nt Stillwater. Gen. Arnold volunteered to relieve it; and frightened the besiegers by means of 'wo emissaries, an Indian and a white man, who told such sto- ries of the force of the Americans, that they left their baggage and fled precipitately to Oneida Lake. Onetda Castle. This is a village on the confines of a tract of reserved land belonging to the Indians of the Oneida nation. The principal residences of must of the Indians in this part of the country were formerly fortified iii a manner corresponding with their ideas of warfare, end hence the name of castle attached to this village, ag well as to several others, which we may have occasion to apeak of further on. The Oneidas were one of the original Five Nations, which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this state, and whose power and influence, at the time of the settlement of New- York and New-England, were extended far and wide. They held the Dalawares in subjection in Pennsylvania and Delaware; the Cherokees in South Ca- rolina sought their friendship ; and all the country betweeti the Hudson and Connecticut rivers was tributary to them. They must have been at that time extremely numerous. But since then their decreasie has been great ; for besides the losses they have sustained in wars, and the diseases brought upon them by civilized vices, many of their youn^ men have left their native country to go and join the tribe* Hi A ^1 51 inn 1 * V - j ^^ 4*? SYRACUSE. SALT WORKS. » who Hf ill preserve some portion of their original habits and' independence. A mile east of Oneida Creek, r.. i' by the road sidci is the ancient Council Ghove, wht all the public busi- ness of the nation was for mi j years, transacted. It is formed of fine butternut trees, which, in the summer season, from a little dij»tance, present a beautiful and re- gular mass of verdune. Towards the southeast from this place is seen the Episcopal church, a building erected for the use of the Indiana, Syracuse. This place is no less remarkable for the rapidity of its growth^ than for the peculiar advantages of its situation. The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a half distant ; and the water is raised 85 feet, and brought in hollow logs to the salt vats, and at a very triflinff ex- pense. These vats cover 400 acres at the western side of the village, and are well worthy of a day's delay, as well as the works at Salina,. Liverpool, and Geddesburgh.— The vats are large pans made of wood, three or four inches deep, raised a little from the ground, and placed in long ranges, with a very gradual descent, to permit the salt wa- ter to flow slowly along from one end to the other. Each range of vats is supplied by a hollow log placed perpen- dicularly in the ground ; and the constant action of the sun evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to be deposited in small cubical crystals at the bottom. The water is at first a little thick, butgradually deposits its impurities; and the lower vats always show a beautiful white crust, like the purest snow.. Within 7 miles are 180 salt works. Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the vats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken out once in two or three diays, to be deposited in the store- houses, which are built at regular distances. Thence it is easily removgd to the canal, and then is ready for transportation to any part of the country. The Oswego Canal leaves the Erie canal at this place,, and opens a direct communication with Lake Ontario. The bank is used as a tow path a considerable distance. The shores rise gradually to a height of 100 feet, with few inhabitants and little cultivation. The locks and other works are of the boat description,, and. very admiiabls workmanship. g .*i I f Sal })lace, but coil tween by ma; canal, is that clear id or eighl rows, about tl a large quires ( The w? of the b and dep A hollov opening! filling ih boiling c and is but the appcarar room jus There in reserv air passii plied wit in large crystalliz ether mo The V; rishing aj it on th( warmer s hood is rr terrible s of many j have beer been grea The bri plied to ROUTK TO NIAGARA. 43 Sai.ina is situated a mile and a half north from this place, and should not be passed by unnoticed. A small but convenient little packet-boat is continually plying be- tween the two places, drawn by a single horse, and passes by many salt manufactories, built on both sides of the canal. The mode of evaporation generally adopted here, is that of boiling ; and a brief description will convi^y a clear idea of the process. Kach building contains sixteen or eighteen large iron kettles, which are placed in two rows, forming what is called ** a block. They stand about three feet higher than the floor ; and under them is a large furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and re- quires constant attention to keep the water always boiling. The water is drawn from a large reservoir at one end of the building, after having been allowed to stand awhilo and depo**it the impurities it has brought along with it. A hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished with openings against the kettles, is the only machine used in filling them. The firstdeposit made by the water after tho boiling commences, is a compound of several substances, and is thrown away, under the name of " Bittern ;" but the pure white salt, which soon after makes its appearance, is carefully removed, and placed in a store- room just at hand, ready for barrelling and the market. There are large manufactories here, where salt is made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evaporated by hot air passing through them in large pipes. The pipe is sup- plied with heat by a furnace below, and the salt is formed in large loose masses, resembling half-thawed ice. The crystallization also is different from that produced by the ether modes, at least in secondary forms. The Village of Salina is of considerable size and a flou- rishing appearance. The extensive marshes which bound it on the west are extremely unwholsome during the warmer seasons of the year, and the whole neighbour- hood is more or less infected with the fever and ague, that terrible scourge, which has retarded so much the settlement of many parts of the western country. Since the marshes have been partiahy cleared and drained, the disease has been greatly diminished. The branch canal which runs through this village, is ap- plied to other valuable purposes beside those of transpor- 5 41 SALINA. SALT WORKS. ! tation. A sluice which draws off* a portion of the water towards the marshos and the lake, is mado to turn sovoral mill wlicc'ls in its course A forcing pump raises the wa- ter of the «alt spring destined to supply the mannfactories here and at Syracuse ; and a large open frame building shows the spot from which all the kettles and the pans of both these places derive their supplies : that for the lattor being elevated to the height of 85 feet. The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, but in its present state presents no very remarkable ap- pearance, as there is little commotion visible on the sur- face, and the source would seem by no means equal to the great draughts which are continually made upon it. The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile. It is six miles long and two broad, and must receive a con- siderable quantity of salt water from the draining of the marshes, as its banks are covered with saline plants. The valley is surrounded by limestone hills, with petrifactions, and gypsum is found in great quantities. " The American Salt Formation" says Dr. Van Rensselaer in his * Essay,' " extends over the continent from the Alleghanies to the Pacific, between 31° and 45° North Latitude. In this immense tract, rock salt has been occasionally found ; but its locality is more generally pointed out by brine springs." The salt springs in this state are in the counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Ontario, Niagara, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and Oneida, but this is the most valuable on various accounts. During the year ending August 1823, 606,463 bushels were manufactured here. In 1800 there were only 42,754. 45 gallons of water makes a bushel of salt. At Nan- tucket 350 gallons of sea water are required. The foll/wing approximated analysis of the water of this spring is given by Dr. Noyes of Hamilton College. 40 gallons, or 355 lbs. contain 56 lbs. of saline extract. Pure Muriate of Soda, 51 lb. Carb. Lime, coloured by oxyde ofiron, 6|J oz. Sulph. Lime, 2'lb. 4 oz. Muriate Lime. 1 lb. 12| oz. and probably muriate magnesia, and •ulph. soda. From Syracuse to Rochester. Railroad. By the canal, 99 miles. Weed's Basin 26 miles. — A coach to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. Urn. Monte* he water n several I the wa- ifactories building and the ies: that ;et. curiosity, cuhle ap- 1 the sur- uai to the it. t a mile, ive a con- ing of the Its. The rifactions, Dr. Van continent p and 450 salt has generally this state Ontario, , but this the year ufactured At Nan- water of Colleg©. xtract. >loured by Muriate lesia, and lad. miles. — , Monte* '/Hi' > '.nn i P- ^ ( ir.v . r- 1 N-'rth 't » n .y '/'./ /.' / () spring ROUTB TO NIAGARA. 45 zuma Salt Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The canal across the marshes was constructed at a vast expense. 35 m. Palmyra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 m. for 75 cents. The Great Embankment, 72 feet high, extending 2 m. Antiquities. In the towns of Onondaga, Camillua, and Pompey, are the remains of ancient villages and forts, of which a description will be found in Yates and Moul- ton's History of the State, vol. I. p. 13. In Pompey the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, with the remains of something like circular or elliptical forts at the corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more than 500 acres. De Witt Cj'ir.t'^n. tho laie Governor of this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before the Lit. and Phil. Society, thinks the place was stormed on the north line. In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hiil, three acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long, to a spring on the west and a gate towards the east. Another is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as large. Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick have been picked up in these placea. (There is a bed of Coal in Onondaga.) 'I . ^v ,j i'itt ROCHESTER Is the largest and most flourishing place in this part of the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in point of numbers. It is situated on the west side of Genesee river, at the upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal; and enjoys the finest advantages for water mills of all kinds, from the convenient and abundant supply obtained from the falls. Hotels. Rochester House, Eagle, Mansion, Monroe, Clinton and Arcade. Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 1811, the first settlement made in 1812, and it was not until the latter part of the year 1814, that any considerable addition was made to the number of inhabitants. In the museum may be seen the remains of mammoths dug up in this town and vicinity. There are many fine dwellings, the court house. Arcade, Athenaeum and Pagoda, gaol, market, 20 large flour milU \ 46 ROCHESTEK. of Stone. There are three bridges over the Genescpf eight canal basins, two dry docks, &c. The Broadway bridge, 600 feet long, is a few yards above the aqueduct. The water power belonging to this village and the vicinity is equal to the power of 38,400 horses ; or, 1,920 steam engines of 20 horse power each. Therefore the water power is worth (computing the cost of such en- gines, as in England, at $8,880 each ; and the annual expense of working at 222 dollars for each horse power,) almost ten millions annually. The whole river supplies 20,000 cubic feet a minute ; and the combined height of the falls at Rochester and Carthage is about 280 feet. A fall of 12i cubic feet of water in a minute 20 feet, is equal to the power of one horse. The Aqueduct over the Genesee is one of the finest works on the course of the canal, and is no less remark- able fok' its usefulness than for its architectural beauty and strength. It is borne across the river's channel, on ten arches of hewn stone. The river dashes rapidly along beneath, while boats, with goods and passengers, glide safely above. A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, where sluices are also constructed for the supply of the nurrorous manufactories built on the bank. Other sluices are also dug on the west side^ where many other mills are to be seen. The streets of the town are hand- somely and regularly laid out, and seve-^1 of them are very well built with store and dwelling houses of brick and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. Falls. There is a fall in the Genesee of about 90 feet, near the northern extremity of the town, another near it ; and a fine one at Carthage, which, with the truly impressive scenery of the banks, is worthy of par- ticulur attention. To vary the ride, it is recommended to the stranger to go down on one side of the river, and after viewing the cataract, cross the bridge a little above, and return on the other. Carthage. The fall here is very sudden, though not in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a few yards. The cataract i.as evidently been retiring for ages» as the deep gulf below tlie falls, with its high, perpen- dicular and ragged banks, is sufficient testimony ; ami Other other hand- I H huni been a Hei ^f ROUTX TO NIlGARi. 47 the seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime effect of the scenery, redoubled by the roaring of the cataract, combine to render it one of the most impressive scenes in this part of the country. The precipices are walls of secondary rocks, presenting their natural stratification, and descending from the surrounding level, to a depth of about tvi^o hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, and disappearing at the brink of the falls, which it has kept at their present position ; its superior hardness, evident* ly resisting the action of the water, for a much longer time; and probably rendering the descent more perpendi* cular than it would otherwise be. The rocks are over- hung with thick forest trees, which, in some places, have been able to find a narrow footing along the sides. Here are the hutments of a bridge thrown over a few years ago. It was 400 feet in length, and 250 above the water: but stood only a short time, and then fell with a tremendous crash, by its own weight. Foriunately no person wp ^ crossing it at the time-— a lady and gentleman had just bbfore passed, and safely reached the other side. On account of the obstructions at the falls, navigation is entirely interrupted here ; and all the communication between the banks of the Genesee, as well as the canal, and Lak« Ontario, is through Carthage. Merchandise is raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an inclined plane, very steep, where the descending weight is made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. Road from Rochester to Niagara Falls, 87 miles. To Lockport, and thence a tcuilroad to the Falls, To Carthage Falls - 2 To Gaines Parma - * - - - 9 Clarkson - . - - 7 Hartland - - - - 14 Sandy Creek - - - 7 ... - 8 Oak Orchard - - - 7 Cambria - - - - - 11 Lewiston - - - - 15 Niagara Falls - - - 7 The principal objects on this road, are the Ridge, Lew- iston on Niagara River, and the Tuscarora Village. Ni- agara Village will bo seen if you do not cross into Cana- da at Lewiston ; and Queenstown if you do. Lockport may also be seen by leaving the stage road at Hartland, 5* 46 L0CK?0R7. 54 mileB from Rochester, where a vehicle awaits th« arr ' rival of the coach, to lake travellera to Lockport, 7 miles. It will be proper, however, to pay your passage only to th?8 plice, if you determine to stop here. Instead of going by land from Rochester^ it may be more convenient to take passage in the canal boat to Lcckport ; and there take the railroad. The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height, and for the most part very narrow, extending a great part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It is often perfectly level for several miles, and affords an ad- mirable found.it on for the road, which has, in conse- quence, b "m*} along its top. The gro ' , \ p t •;ents a slope on esch side of the path, peculiarly W; I'i ada.V'd for home log, gardens, and or- chards; and the frequency and facility of transportation give the inhabitants very manifest advantages. Somf* well built, and even handsome houses will be observed, which are still few indeed, but show that a good style ha« actually been introduced. Lockport. This is one of the interesting places on the canal. Here is the noblest display of locks, two ranges, made of fine hewn stone, being constructed against the brow of the Mountain Ridge, where the foaming of the waste water, the noise of mills, and the bustle of occupa- tion excite many lively feelings. Above the locks the Deep Cut offers a singular passage between high walls of rocks. Lockport is one of the most advantageous sites for machinery on the canal, as all the water passes down the mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an ex- tent of 135 miles : Tonawanta Creek being the only feeder from Buffalo to the Seneca River. It is down by passing round the double locks, and falls feet into a large natural basin. The rocks are blasted out to a depth of 60 feet. Within a few years, the spot has heen changed from a wilderness to a village of several hundred houses. It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to Buffalo. Minerals,. The rocky stratum is a carbonate of lime, containing organic remains: encrinites, enthrocites, &c. &c. crystala of carb. lime, rhomboidal, dog-tooth spar, brought 55 <-* th« fff » r miles. only to be more Kjkport ; ; height^ a great 1. It is s an ad- n conse- ,he path, and or- jortation Som^ )b8erved, style ha« es on the 3 ranges, linst the ig of the occupa- ocks the walls of 8ites for es down or an ex- le onlv brought falls 55 isted out pot has several d 27 to oflime, les, &c. ;h spar, '■?^ ■t ) , 'I !2 9R of lini 8ul[)lll •chttHCi Tho land grated last c( wem which Thoy many } by the I cuhiva It vv at this of Niag haps it To tho rccoinrr ferenco tish sifJ both pi hour of a (iolla and up the falls furnish the cats son. D places 5 coa'',hes To su in this 1 to proce thiit sid( rally ac The visi Goat Is Table Ji ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 49 ! 2 sided ; flu!\to of limo; boaiitiful crystals of siilphatr' of lime ; -^'dph. of stroiitiaii ; pyiitc!*; .siilpliurot of zinc; gul[»huret of lead. Colloclious of niiiiLTals may be pur- ■chased hore. Tho TuscAUORA Rkskiivation is an oblonij tract of land reaching within a niilo of Lcwiston. Thoy emi- grated from North Caroliiia, near tho boginnini^ of tho ladt century, at an inviiaiion from the Five Nalionn, and were admitted on equal trrnis into thiiir confederacy, whicli ha- since received tho name of tho Six Nations. They have had a clergyman settled amont^ them for many years, and Ciiristianity has biH^n voluntarily ad()j)ted by liiem. Their village has some haiulsome and weK cultivated farms, and a house built for pul)lic worship. Hints to the Traveller at Lewiston. It will be the intention of many strangers who arrive at this place, to devote several days to viewing tlie Fall» of Niagara, the battle grounds m the vicinity, and per- haps in making short excursions in dift'erent directions. To those who have leisure, such a course may well ho recommended ; and it may be almost a matter of indif- ference whether they first visit the American or the Bri- tish side. Tho public accommodations are excellent at both places, and the river may bo safely crossed at any hour of the day, by a ferry, at the expense of about haif a dollar, including tho transportation of luggage down and up the steep banks. Staircases are erected near the falls, on the Ijritish as well as the American side, to furnish a convenient mode of descending to the foot of the cataract, where the (charge is 25 cents for each per- son. Durmg the pleasant seasons of tlie year, both places are the resort of great throngs of visiters. Stage coa'',hes also pass up and down on both sides every day. To such^ however, as have but a short time to spend in this neighbourhood, it may be strongly recommended to proceed directly to the British side. The cataract on that side is higher, broader, more unbroken, and gene- rally acknowledged to be the noblest part of the scene. The visiter may indeed see it to great advantage from Goat Island, on the American side, but the view from Table Rock, ono-ht by no means to be neglected. Th« I m I ■io fkLtS Of NIAGARA. H m finest views from tho Icvol of the water below arc now af- forded on l)Oth sides. THK FALLS OF NIAGARA— /rom^Ac American tide. The Iss or Hotel is n large building, and very well kept and commodious. On the American side a bridge crosses a frightful part of the rapi(U to Bnth Island, juuI another thence to Goat Island. I'art of a bridge rnimains, which extended to Ter- rapin Rooks, and beyotul to the brow of tho cataract. By it you may reach tlie Stone Tower, to the top of which a winding staircase leads, aflording a most impressive view of the awful scene below. The Biddle Staircase, erected at the expense of Nicho- las Biddle, Ksq. of rhiladelphia, leads from Iris Island to tho bottom of the preripicc. You descend first stone steps 40 feet, between stone walls, then by 88 steps under a wooden cover, which brings you to three pathways with stone steps, which conduct to the water's edge, whence the view upward is most imposing. Several picturesque and romantic avenues and rocky recesses are to be seen at different parts of the river's banks. The height of the fall on this side is IGO feet perpen- dicular, but somewhat broken in several places by the projecting rocks. It extends 300 yards to a rock which interrupts it on the brow of the precipice. A narrow sheet appears beyond it, and then comes Goat Island, with a mural precipice. Between this and the other shore is the Grand Crescent, for which see a few pages beyond. Tho long bridge to the island, which com* mands many fine views of the falls, rests on wooden piers sunk with stones. The staircase conducts safely to the bottom of the pre- cipice ; and boats may row up near to the cataract. About two miles below the Falls, is a mineral sprinff, said to contain sulphuric and muriatic acids, lime and magnesia. There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about half a mile across; but the current is strong on this side, and Ihe eddy sets up with such force on the other, that a ^ hoat m over, is much pools : to niiina vantage rippli's n ance ver The ri of a mor ring ever tho foot ( QUKEN small tov natural si been the The L between while Ge he forme before da; barked hi" under covi coast were some strei lofty and \ Two or tl brow, the ing was efi Americans Gen. Broc hastened t was killed in possessi obliged to The M the British of Gen. Bi feet ; and i sive, being the eye em of Lewistoi DATTLE OP QUKENSTOWff. 5i now af* an aide, rcry well tful part to Goat 1 to Ter- ict. By which a ivo view )f Nicho- [sland to •St 8tone p3 under r'ays with , whence id rocky lo river's perpen- \ by the .k which narrow island, le other IV pages ;h corn- wooden jthe pre- sprinff, |me and half a |de, and that a M hnat moves moro than double that (li-stnnro in goinij over. The pussiigo is not dun^erous, akhcmjjh the water is much agitated by counter cunt'iits and clum^inf; whirl- pools : for the ferryrneu ur«.! iauijlit by their expcrierx'o to niiuia^'e the boat with cavo, and not only to take ad- vantage of the eurronts, Imt to avoid all the rough places, rippleri and whirlpool.-.. Tlio banks liere liavo an ap[)ear- ance very wild and striking. The rocks nvo a dark red sandstone, with thin strata of a more clay(!y character and a lighter colour, occur- ring every few feet. The river is 104 feet lower than at the foot of the falls. QuEKNsTovvN, on liie Canada side of the river, is a small town, uninterestini;, except so far as regards its natural situation, and some martial events of which it has been the theatre. The Battle of Queeyisfoirn. During the last war between the United States and Great Britain, in 1812, while Gen. Van Rensselaer was stationed at Lewiston, he formed the bold design of taking Que(?nstovvn ; and, before daylight in the morning of October 13tn, he em- barked his troo])s at the ferry, and passed over the river under cover of a battery. As the accessible points on tho coast were strictly watched, and defendtnl by butteries of some strength, the plac" selected for the attack was the lofty and precipitous bank jiisi above, about 300 feet high. Two or three small I atteries bad been erected on the brow, the remains of which are still visible ; but the land- ing was eflected, the heights were surmounted, and the Americans commenced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, who was at a distance, hearing the guns, hastened to the spot; but under a tree near the precipice was killed by a chance stmt. The Americans remained in possession of the heights a few hours, but were then obliged to re-cross the river. The Monvrnent to General Brock was raised by the British government in the year 18l;24 ; and the remains of Gen. Brock v M'e deposited there. Its height was 12G feet; and the vir . from the base is very fine and exten- sive, being 350 feet above the river. In clear weather the eye embraces not only the river below, and the towns 0? Lewiston and Queenstown, but those of Newark and i I'S i i'tS 1 111 nu i'i ^ffl M| Ml i' Wml Rivl iy: I- i - II 52 FALLS or NIAGARA. Fort Niagara, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, Toronto harbour, Youngstown, part of the route of the Welland Canal, a vast level tract of country covered with an uni- form forest, and the horizon formed by the distant lake itself. It has been lately blown up with gunpowder by some unknown person. ,, From Queenstown to Niagara Falls is seven miles, over a level, sandy road. The country between Niagara and Toronto, U. C. is con- sidered the most beautiful, most fertile, and best culti- vated part of the province. The Whirlpool, sometimes called the Devij's Hole, cannot be seen without leaving the road and going to the bank. The rocks are about 300 feet above the wa- ter; and during the late war 50 Americans were driven off by a party of Indians, in the night, mistaking the trees for the verge of a wood. One was saved by falUng into a cedar. A loiaurely walk the whole distance, near the river, may please the admirer of nature; as the high and rocky cliffs which form the banks on both sides present a con- tinued succession of slrikmo: scenes. Although the surface of the ground frequently indicates the passage of water in some long past period, the whole road is much elevated above the river, and owing to this circumstance the traveller is disappointed at not getting a sight of a cataract from a distance, as it remains conceal- ed by the banks, until he has approached very near. It frequently happens, also, that the roar of the cataract is not perceived before reaching the inn, for the mtervening bank intercepts the sound so much that the noise of the wheels is sometimes sufficient to drown )t entirely. Yet, strange as it may appear, the inhabitants declare, that at the same time it may very piobably be heard on the shore of Lake Ontario. THE FALLS OF mAGARA— From the British side. There are large Tnng and Hotels on the Canadian side of the river, situated as near the falls as could be desired. One stands on what ought strictly to be called ' wt the upj formed gallerie of the ( the rapi Folio syth's, I of the 5 suddeni TABr tar p St, V ocene. vievv. ' 174 feet foam pre a distp.n from Ta Island di isolated breadth ! the dista ing rock necfs Go this spot It ma place as bouring j a differer be seen, that time from the beauty. Dr. D^ vels, of t of Niagai and on ar I'uns six 1 miles, the more than it to be 6, would be I TADLE ROCK. Toronto kVelland ! an uni- int Jake by some n miles, '2. is con- !St culti- 's Hole, going to the wa« 'e driven king the ay falling the river, nd rocky it a con- indicates he whole ig to this getting a conceal- near. It alaract is ervening se of the Yet, p, that at the shore tish side. dian side :ould be be called fl 53 the upper bank, for that elevation appears to have once formed the river's shore. This is the lar^'er house; the galleries and windows in the rear command a fine view of the cataract, although not an entire one, and overlook the rapids and river for S3veral miles above. Following a footpath thr*. jgh the pasture beliind For- syth's, the stranger soo., finds himself on the steep brow of the second hank, and the mighty cataract of Niagara suddenly opens henealh him. Tab' ;•- Rock is a projection a few yards from the ca- tarP'.t, which commands a fmo view of this magnificent ocene. Indeed it is usually considered the finest |)oint of view. The height of the fall on this side is said to be 174 feet perpendicular; and this height the vast sheet of foam preserves unbroken, quite round the Grand Crescent, a distance, it is estimated of 700 yards. The distance from Table Rock lo Termination Rock is 153 feet Goat Island divides the ".at'Aract, and just beyond it stands an isolated rock. ". c fall on the American side is in breadth 900 feet, ti... height 160, and about two thirds the distance to the bottom the sheet is broken by project- ing rocks. A bridge built from the American side con- nects Goat Island and the main land, though invisible from this spot. It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this place as often as he can, and to view it from every neigh- bouring point; as every change of light exhibits it under a differetit and interesting aspect. The rainbows are to be seen, from this side, only in the afternoon ; but at that time the cloudj of mist, which are continually rising from the gulf below, often present them in the utmost beauty. Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, m his Tra- vels, of the quantity of water which passes the cataract of Niagara. The river at the ferry is 7 furlongs wide, and on an average 25 feet deep. The current probably I'uns six miles an hour; but supposing it to be only 5 miles, the quantity that passes the falls in an hour, is more than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; if we suppose it to be 6, it will be more than 102 millions ; and in a day would be 2400 millions ol tons. The noise, it is said, is ij mmv^^ >r' 04 tlAPlDS. |: r r m [Mi: I Kl ii ;^i i:\ i! sometimes'heard at Toronto, 50 miles.^ Table Rock is 66 fed below the level of Lake Eric. The Rapids begin about half a mile above the ca- taract. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood regard it as certain death to get once involved in them. Instances are on record of persons being carried down by the stream ; but no one is known to have ever s\irvived. In- deed, it is very rare that the bodies are found. Wild ducks, geese, &c. are frequently precipitated over the ca- taract, and generally reappear cither dead or with their legs or wingo broken. The most sublime scene is presented to the observer when he views the cataract from below; and there he may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. This scene is represented in the plate. To render the descent practicable, a spiral staircase has been formed a little way from Tab!? Rock, supported by a tall mast; and the strancjer descends without fear, because his view is confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough path among the rocks winds alongat the foot of the precipice, although the heaps of loose stones which have fallen down, keep it at a considerable height al ove ihe water. A large rock lies on the very brink of tht river, about 15 feet longr and 8 feet thick, which yon may climb up by means of a lad- der, and enjoy the best central vitwof the falls anywhere to be found. This rock was formerly a part of the pro- jection above, and fell about 20 years ago, with a tremen- dous ro?.r. In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling water, the path leads far under the excavated bank, which in one place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. The vast column of water continually pouring over the preci- pice, produces violent whirls in the air; and the spray is driven out with such force, that no one can approach to the edcre of the cataract, or even stand a few moments near it, without being dreriched to the skin. It is also very difficult to breathe there, bo that persons with weak lungs would act prudently to content themselves with a distant view, and by no means to attempt to go under the cataract. The celebrated navigator captain Basil Hall, on a visit here in 1837, found that the air under the cat gusts witness tremen( steps. In tl Michiga rapids, v of persf number deck, cc ed the f at the 3C an instai her awaj the shoK her nppe the catar ments th ments, w the only The'E falls, ancj ver, is a is warm, gen gas, ground, barrel is per tube, of it, the bright fla While vary ""'s t Chippew{ ing the la two sharf: tish and Ripley or Chippewa VALLS or NIAGARA. 53 the cataract is notjcompressed : but he considered the gusts of wind more violent than any gab he had ever witnessed. Those who are devsirous of exploring this tremendous cavern, should attend very carefully to their steps. In the summer of 1827, an old schooner called the Michigan, jWas lowed by a row Itoat to the margin of the rapids, where she was abandoned to her fate. Thousands of persons had assembled to witness the descent. A number of wild animals had been inhumanly placed on her deck, confined, to pass the cataract, with her. She pass- ed the first fall of the rapide in safety, but struck a rock at the second and lost her masts. There she remained an instant, until the current turned her round and bore her away. A bear here leaped overboard and swam to the shore. The vessel soon filled and sank, so that only her upper works were afterwards visible. She went over the cataract almost without being seen, and in a few mo- ments the basin was perceived all scattered with her frag- ments, which were very small A cat and a goose were the only animals found alive below. The Burning Spring. About half a mile above the falls, and within a few feet of the rapids in Niagara Ri- ver, is a remarkable Burning Sprmg. The water, which is warm, turbid, and surcharged with sul[)hiirated hydro- gen gas, rises in a barrel which has been placed in the ground, and is constantly in a state of ebullition. The barrel is covered, and the gas escapes only through a cop- per tube. On bringing a candle within a little distance of it, the gas takes fire, and continues to burn with a bright flame until blown out. While on the Canada side of the falls, the visiter mav vary ""^s time very agreeably, by visiting the village of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this vicinity ; which, dur- ing the late war with Great Britain, were the scenes of two sharp contests. The Battle of Chippewa. In July, 1814, the Bri- tish and American armies being near each other. General Kipley ordered General Scott to make an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, with Captain Towton's di- 6 'Mil »''>'«• I MmmM i '•'if i 56 BAITLK OF CHiri'KVVA. m Mit Ih vision of artillery ; and the enemy's pickets forct,.' to retire acn js the bridge. General J up in tue afternoon and encamped with General Sc^i t'? advance. The stranger may be gratified by examining the field of these operations, by gomg to Chippewa Village, about two miles above Forsyth's. The American encampment of July 23d, is in the rear of a tavern near the road, about a mile beyond Chippewa, On the 5th, after some sharp shooting, the Indians were discovered almost in the rear of the American camp. At this moment General Porter arrived with his volunteers* arid Indians. General Brown immediately directed them to enter the woods and effectually scour them. Gens. Brown, Scott, and Kipley were at the white house, in advance, reconnoitering. General!^ ter's corps had al- most debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when the whole British force had crossed the Chippewa Bridge, ard General Scott advanced, and Gen. Kipley was in readiness to support. In a few minutes the British tine was discovered formed and rapidly advancing — their ri^ht (the Royal Scots) upon the woods, and their left the Prince Regent's) on the river, with the king's own for their reserve. Their object was to gain the bridge across the creek in front of tiie encampment, which would have compelled the Americans to retire. Gen. Brown, fearing a flank movement of the unemy through the woods on the left, di-ected General Ripley not to advance until he gave him orders. Meanwhile Qe r''al Scott, under a most tremendous fire from the euerr ''a artillery, crossed the bridge, and formed his line. The British orders were to give one volley at a distance, and immediately charge. But such was the warmth of our musquetry that they could not withi^tand it. At this moment General Brown sent orders to General Ripley to make a movement through the woods upon the enemy's right flank. With the 2l6t regiment he passed a ravine in hi? front, where the men had to wado up to their chins, and advanced as rapidly as possible. But before he commenced filing from the woods into the open land under the enemy's batteries, N '^mmM RATTLE a? !'. re iDGK WATER. 57 ield of about pment , about ndians , camp, jnteers* d thetn Gens. (Use, in had al- i, when Bridge, was in ish line sir riuht ?ft the twn for ' across Id have fearing on ihe He gave most ed the were to charge. at they Brown vement With where iced as \g from itteries, ihry hs:! been completely broken by General Scott's bri- gade, and threw themselves across the Chipp;.v. n linage, which they broke down. Although the Americans were not able to cross the creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippewa very precipitately, and to retreat towards Queenstown. In this affair the British loss, in killed, wounded and missing, was 514, and the American loss 328. Nothing of importance occurred after this until the 2.3th of the same month, the date of Tlie Battle of Bripgewatkr, or Lundy's Lane. The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody action is about a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an obscure road, called Lundy'ii Lane. Since their retreat from Chippewa, the enemy had received reinforcements of \ troops from Lord Wellmfrton's army in Spain ; and on the *5th of July encamped on a hill, with the desiga of attacking the American camp the next morning. At 6 in the evening, General Brown ordered General Scott to advance and attack them, which was immediately done ; and in conjunction with Genrral Ripley the attack was commenced in an hour. The British were much surpris- ed at seeing the approach of their enemy at this hour, not having discovered them until they left the woods and began to march across the open level fields seen from Forsyth's Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the left. The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of the American regin.ents, the day after the engagement, contains some interesting particulars: '* The enemy had collected their whole force in the peninsula, and were reinforced by troops fron» Lord Wel- lington's army, just landed from Kingston. For two hours the two hostile lines were within twenty yards of each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon shcne bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the Glen- garian regiment caused the deception. They frequently charged, and were as often driven back Our regiment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to storm the British battery. We charged, and took every piece of the ene- -> ^"^ i 58 WKI.LAND CANAL. t . i,k my's cannon. We kept possession of the grouna nnd oannori until 12 o'clock at night, when we all fell )ack more than two miles. This was done to secure our c imp, which might otherwise have been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of them killed, and there oeing no ropes to the pieces, vve got olf but two or three The men wvire so excessively fatigued they could rot drag them. We lost one piece of cannon, vvhitih v\as too much advanced, every man being shot that had charge of it, but two Several of our caissons were bk wt.^ ^'P hy their rockets, which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of ammunition. The lines were so near that can- non could not be used wirh advaniage." The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners, 878; and the Americans 860. The VVelland canal begins near the mouth of Grand River, Upper Canada, empties itself into Lake Erie, about 10 miles from Niag-ara. It will admit the largest ves>5els on the lakes, viz. those of 125 tons. Here is Po7-i MaitUind, which is capable of receiving a number of vessels such as navigate the Lake, for which the Canal is calculated. Grand River serves as a part of the navigable line for a distance of 128 chains ; and then Broad Creek for 70 chains. The excavations theic commence, and the Canal enters the Maiiifiect Marsh. This is a tract of swnmpy land, elevated only about 8 feet above the level of Lake Erie, and extending from its shore to Wei land or Chippewa River. The canal passps it by a thorough cut ten miles long and varying from 10 to IG feet in depth, communi- cating with many ponds and pools. It is a fact well esta- blished by scientific surveyors, that only a narrow ledge of rocks occurs between the two lakes, and that, if this were removed, the soil is generally of so loose a nature, that a oprrent of water might soon wear away a deep channel (irain otT Lake Erie, and cause a tremendous in-'ndatio!.. This barrier will be eeon at the Mountain Ridge, ^m tho northern part of the Canal, where the de- scent is above 300 feet. From Lake Erie to that place the stranger will observe that he proceeds on an almost uiiinter. '^pted level. The continuation of tlie Mountain rXU.n OF NIAGARA. 59 "•_d yc^ ^«. %'^ v*^ >"t»; •k* 1 V- U V. , .*i r^ oeing The deep PJdgc forms the Falls of Niagara, and the elevation of ground at Lockport, surmounted by the noble works at that place. It runs for many miles, presenting towards the east an irreguLir line of precipice, with sali- ent and re-entering angles, like an immense fortification. Most of the streams which fall over it pour dov^^n the favines thus formed. The Wclland River, a very sluggish stream, is used for 10 miles, benig entered by a lock of 8 feet lift, a tow- ing path being formed along its bank. On leaving Welliind iliver, the boats pass a ravine 66 chains in length, where the excavations arc 8 or 10 feet deep. The Deep Cut. Wo approach a part of the canal in which the greatest labour and expense were required. It extends 1 j miles, and required the excavation of 1,477,- 700 cubic yards of earth. The excavation is to an aver- age depth of 4.5 feet. The ground is undulating, and the greatest depth is 56 feet. The Mountain Ridge. Within the extent of a mile and 55 chains arc 17 locks of 22 feet by iOO, which over- come nearly the whole elevation of Lake Erie above On- tario. The canal winds along the face of the descent, being on the left and right, to give room for reservoirs between the locks, necessary for a convenient supply of water. None of the locks are less than 30 yards apart. This is the only part of the route where rocks were to be excavated, and the amount of rock I'cmoved here was 70,000 cubic yards. At the foot of this long and steep descent the canal en- ters a ravine, which extends 2| miles through 12 lock:*, between high banks, to St. Catherine's. The descent from the top of the ridge to this place is 322 feet. To Lake Ontario from this place, 5 miles, there are 4 locks, -52 feet by J "''5, and one of 10 feet lift. The route runs chietiy along the val- ley of the principal branch of the Twelve Mile Creek. Port Dalhousic, the harbcur of the Welland Canal on Lake Ontario, is protected by two fine piers, run out 200 or 350 yards, nearly at tho angle of gtorra, which ii about 80 degrees weal. 6* '*• [: i'^'; 60 THE WESTERN LAKES. y^ i ■ ■|' Tlio locks arc of wood, butbiiilt on the most approved prinriplcs. Tho ronirnon dimensions arc 100 foot loi,^', 22 widf and 8 derj) ; and arc calculated for vessels of from lUO to 12.3 tons hurt lion. Toronto, the capital of Upper Canada, is n place of cor- siderablo sr/e. The public buildir'i,''^ inake little figure. The hai)our is very line, prorcctcvl by d<'fensive works 07i Gibraltar I'oint. Kind's C<tllcire is of recent institution, and bears the style and privileges of a university. The traveller has nowe.ntered the grs?at valley of tho St. Lawrence, whicli embraces tlu* live great lakes ; Supe- rior, Huron, Michigan, Erie and Ontario, as well as Chtimplain anrl its benutiful tributary. Lake George. Its length is nearly 1000 miles, and areaa!)out halt a million, of vvhicli about 73,000 are water. Here were the scenes of the early French discoveries, and the Jesuit missions among tho Lidians, many of whom, with the idolatry of Rome, W'M-e taught imf)l;icable hatrt'd against the protest- ants of New-Kngland and New-York. Here were the scenes of most of the battles fought between the French and English, and here may be seen traces of many of their fortresses. Here alsowei-e the scenes of manyof thela*er military operations between the English and our own countrymen. Tho traveller will more highly enjoy a jour- ney in any part of this region, if he prepares himself by a recurrence to some book of history relating to it. The French excited and led the Indians against the English colonies, and committed numerous depredations, fir miuiy years: but, after many unsuccessful attempts, were finally subdued in 1759, by Gen. Wolfe. In 1775 the Americans took Montreal from the English, and some other paits of Lower Canada : but they were obliged to evacuate the country the next year. In the war of .1812, they made a similar attempt, but without success. IHE Western Lakes. Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500 feet deep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet above the elevation of tide water at Three Ri- vers, 270 miles below Cape Vincent. It is 330 feet below Lake Erie. Erie is 270 miles long, 60 miles wide, 200 feet deep; and its surface is 565 feet abore tide water at Albany. BATTLE or ERIE. 61 Huron is 250 miles long-, 100 miles average broadtli, 900 fpct deo]> ; and ita surface is m>arly 595 feel above the lide wiiter. Michigan is 400 miles long-, 50 wide, depth unknown; elevation the same as Huron. Green Bay is about 105 miles long-, 20 miles wide, depth unknown ; elevation the same as Huron and Mi- chit,^an. Lake Superior is 459 miles long", 109 miles average width, 900 feet deep; and its surface 1048 feet above the tide water Hence the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low as the foot of Niagara Falls ; but the bottom of each of the other lakes it will be observed, is lower than the surface of the ocean. Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reservoir of the mighty volume. After making a semicircle of five degrees to the south, accommodating and enriching one of the most fertile and interesting sections of the globe, it meets the tide a distance of 2000 miles from its source, and 5000 from the extreme point of its estuary, on the At- lantic coast. The lakes arc said to have a periodical rise once in twelve year'^. It occurred in 1815 and 1827. The Ferry across Niagara river is about half a mile be- low the Falls, and may be crossed at any hour in the day, without danger, notwithstanding the rapidity of the current. The descent from the bank is so steep, that it has been necessary to build a staircase. To Bvjfnlo, on the Canada side, 28^ miles, to Chip- pewa 2, Waterloo (Fort Erie) 16, (over the ferry to Black Kock, 25 cents each passenger,) to Buffalo 2^. Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo, are the remains of Fort Eric, a fortress of great consequence in the late war. — There was a strong wall, surrounded with entrenchments rear.hing to the lake. The remains of the British camp are also seen, and the trees are still wounded with shot. Battle of Erie. On the 17th of September, 1814, a severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort Erie, when a part of the American garrison, 1000 regulars and 3000 militia, made a sortie, and took the British works, about 500 yards in front of their line. The British had two batteries on their left, which annoyed the fort, and >ij m >'2 V n ■:i\>Vi H wmM ca BAtTLl ol» RRIE. I i, #: lO ■ >ver© about openinc: a third. Their camp was about twn miles distant, shcltorcdhy n wood J tlieir works wore «;:ar'' riaoncd with one third of their infantry, from 12 to 1500 men, and a detachinrnt of artillfry. Gen. Porter with the vohmteors, Col. Gibson with the riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 23d and 21st lijjht infantry, and a fcnv dismounted dragoons, were sent from the extreme loft of the American position, by a passage cut through the woods, towards the enemy's right ; and Gen. Miller wa^ stationed in the nivinc between the fort and the enemy's batteries; while Gen. Kipley had a re- serve under the bastions. A little before 3 P. M. the left columns commenced their attack on the enemy's right, and Gen. Miller at the same time pushed forward between Nos. 2 p.nd 3 of the batteries, broke their line, and took their two block houses. Battery No. 1 was soon aft.'r deserted, the gung were spiked, and the magazine of No. 3 was blown Up. Gen, Ripley was wounded, and Col. Gibson killed. The action lasted about an hour, which gave time for the remaining two-thirds of the enemy's force to march from their camp and partake in it The Americans at length retired with prisoners, having succeeded in their object. The B'-itish suffered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Dr'im- tnond broke up his camp on the 2l3t, and retired to his intrenchments behind the Chippewa River. To Bvjfalo, on the American side, 30 1 miles. Tona- Wanta Creek, where the canal passes, 11 miles; Black Rock, 10 miles; Buffalo, 2^ miles. To Fort George, 14 miles. Queenstown, 7 miles; Fort George, 7 miles. [The route from Niagara to Albany and the Springs will be taken up after tho route to Montreal.] — See p. 66, ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 392 miles. I Those who have never travelled through the state of New-York, and have leisure to make so circuitous a route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Roches- ter, and take the lino of the railroad or Erie Canal, the Spring*, Lake George, and Lake Champlain, in their way I 10 re par' 1500 •ith tlic »l ligVil nt fronii passago It ; niid the tort ad a re* imrnccd ^r at the 3 of the L) block ted, the is blown n killed, c for the rch from It length r ol)ject. l)i tni- ed to his Tona- ; Black '^ miles ; Springs ee p. 66» of :al, state luitous Roches* [anal, the Iheir way 1. K^i r.'. ^ \^ ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I I I^|2j8 |25 ■so ^^ III^H £f ISA £ U° 12.0 u ik L25 III 1.4 1.6 6" <^ V] ^^>. "V^"" v: /^ '^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRUT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4S03 ■^ ril to Mon direct Ontari( rican I ing tow cipal p ;,<:eor a the boui out of s From boats, 4 boat on 74; Gre bour, 4( burgh, J 30; sta£ du Lac, to Lach Do. I Lcwistor U. C. 3( Gananoq Port ( River, is torn hou county, gently w iVew-Yor mouth, t< and perp eluding I coaches Carthage Great fiuccessioi three isla hay, only good road Oswegt of Osweg( water. The ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 68 to Montreal. Many, however, will prefer to take the more direct route, which is by the steamboats throus^h Lake Ontario, and is performed in about two days. The Ame- rican boats go from Fort Niagara to Ogdensburgh, keep- ing towards the southern shore, and touching at the prin- cipal ports. The British boats make a few stops, but Acer a course very near the middle of the lake, which is the boundary between the two countries : they are usually out of sight of land about twelve hours. From Niagara to Montreal in the American steam- boats, 414 miles ; stagecoach to Lewiston, 7 m. ; steam- boat on liake Ontario to Fort Niagara, 7 ;* Genesee river, 74; Great Sodus Bay, 35; Oswego, 28; Sackett's Har- bour, 40 ; Cape Vincent, 20 ; Morristown, 50 ; Ogdens- burgh, 12 ; Prescott, U. C, 1 ; Dickinson's Landing, 30; stagecoach to Cornwall, 12; steamboat to Coteau du Lac, 41; stagecoach to the Cascades, 16; steamboat to Lachine, 24 ; stagecoach to Montreal, 9. Do. British steamboats, 449 miles; stagecoach to Lewiston, 7 ; steamboat to Fort George, 7 ; Torcmto, U. C. 30; Port Hope, 65; Coburg, 7; Kingston, 105; Gananoque, 24 ; Brockville, 32 ; Prescotr, 12. See above. Port Genesee, 72 miles at the mouth of the Geneseo River, is a port of entry and delivery. Here are a cus- tom house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe county. This river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a gently winding course about 125 miles in the state of jN'ew-York. It is navigable only four miles from its mouth, to Carthage, where the banks are high, rocky, and perpendicular; and there is a fine fall (104 feet, in- cluding the rapids, &c.) about half a mile above. Stage- coaches are in waiting for Rochester, 6 miles. See Carthage, page 46. Great Sodus Bay, 35 m. Here are three bays in succession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are three islands, and Port Glascow is at the head of the bay, only 10^ miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a good road to it. Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth of Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with 10 feet water. Navigation on the river ends half a mile above, i it • The old French fort Frontenac, destroyed in 1758. 64 PORT oswiao. 'r. tH: except for boats, which go 12 miles farther. A very large button-wood tree, 35^ feet in circumference, is seen a mile from the village near the road. This place had a rapid growth. The Oswego Canal joins the Crie Canal at Salina, and will afford an interest- ing excursion either way. From the hrnd of the falls to the village, it leads along the river's bnnk, prosnrving the elevated level almost to the brow of the hill over tho lake, and then descends by lot^ks. For :he distance of a mile, the interval between the canal and the river utibrds the most advantageous situations for manufactories of vari- ous descriptions. Lake vessels can lie on one side of the manufactories and canal boats on the other; and Congress have appropriated money for protecting the harbour with piers. The lake is 70 miles wide opposite Oswego. Fort Oswkoo, so famous in the history of the Frenc and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the river. The situation was very advantageous for the command of a large extent of country, as this river is the common outlet of all the interior 1' kes of the state. While this post was held alternately by the French and English, they could command a great part of the trade with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited the country with which it communicated. Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the level of the water; and being overlooked by the emi- nence on which Fort Ontario was afterwards erected, was fit only for a defence in early times. A trading house was built here in 1722, and a fort five years after. This was extended in the beginning of the French war of 1755, when Fort Ontario was built. On the follow- ing year, General Montcalm came from Canada, and besieged the fortresses with 3,000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario was evacuated after one attack ; and on the fc' lowing day, August 14th, Fort Oswego surren- dered to the French, with a large quantity of stores brought at great expense through the wilderness, and 21 cannon, 14 mortars, &c. also two sloops, and about 200 boats. The captors, however, did not think proper to hold the position, but immediately abandoned it. Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by this route in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. Bur- Coyne ; Wiilet, In n place, ai uf it, bui Sacki late war, creased > on Iloun: narrow pi in.q-. MORRJ Ogdensbi breadth, j is a numb the gentle a great de General Ogdens end of the village is j on conside i3 Prescot ruins of Fc be traced. ~'b-proo The Th< the naviga of forms, They mig George. Gallop lawrence rent places some conse on his wr.y St. Reg "iiine have Lachiwe Mo.fTRiy ^i/i. :'i :} •I! .;' . ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MOWTREAL. 6J A very ice, is Canal nterest- fal'.s to nng the ivcr the ncc of a r atibrJ:^ i of vari- le of the Uongresa our with ego. e Frenc Ae of the for the J river is the state, rench and the trade bitcd the from the the emi- 1 erected, trading ears after, rench war je follow- lada, and o vessels. , and on o surren- of stores |s, and 21 about 200 proper to Iny by this iGen. Bm- royne; but he was repulsed at Fort Stanwix by Col. Willet, and obliged to return. In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attacked the place, and, after a loss of about 100 men, got possession of it, but evacuated it the next day. Sackett's Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the late war, it became an important naval station, and in- creased very rapidly It is 8 miles distant from the lake, on Hounslow Bay. The harbour is divided into two by a narrow point, and offers great advantages for ship build- in,-: MoRRisTOWN. This is a small village, 10 miles from Ogdensburgh. The river is a little more than a mile in breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. There is a number of rocky islands in the St. Lawrence, and the gentle slope of the land on the New-York shore, adds a great degree of beauty to the scene. General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. Ogdensburgh, formerly Oswegatchie. This is the end of the navigation, and here the steamboat stops. The village is pretty, contains some large stores, and carries on considerable business. On the other side of the river 13 Prescott, where the British steamboat stops. The ruins of Fort Oswegatchie, or Fort Presentation, may still be traced. It was not very large, and contained only a --'b-proof, tvvo buildings of stone, barracks, &c. The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of the navigation, presenting themselves in every variety of forms, though never rising to any great elevation.— They might be compared with the islands of Lake George. Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. lawrence begin. A number of mills will be seen at diffe- rent places on the shore. On Stony Island was a fort of some consequence, which was taken by General Amherst on his way to Montreal, in the year 1760. St. Regis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears this niiine have a reservation of land here 11 miles by 3, Lachine, 53 m. (See Index.) MoNTRiAL, 9 m. (See do.) 'V'kaiii 1- rt 66 nUFFALO. m ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. Railroad to Buffalo or to Lockport. Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the mar- gin of Niagara Hiver, a little way from its head, and op- posite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It was burnt by the British during the war in 1814, but has sines been rebuilt and increased to a much greater size. Black Rock long disputed with Butfalo the privilege of having the Basin of the Canal built in her harbour, and at last obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was built to secure the boats and vessels from the waves of the lake, as well as to raise the water for the supply of the canal to Genesee River. But the swiftness of the current in the river, and the heaping up of ttie ice on the shore, proved great obstacles to the navigation. BUFFALO— 3 miles from Black Rock. In\s. The Eagle Tavern, Buffalo House, American and City Hotels. The situation of this town is remarkably convenient and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle ascent, rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. The principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome dwelling houses, together with several public buildings, all erected since the burning of the village by the British in 1814, as well as the builduigs in the other streets, which are fast increasing every year. In April, 1814, only one house was standing in the village, that of a wi- dow in the upper part of the street. A walk has also been laid out on the brow of the hill towards the lake. This is called the Terrace, and affords a charming view upon the lake, the harbour, and the canal, to Black Rock. The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature for the junction of the two kinds of navigation which are here b shclte; and th afford i goods. con nee of a b{ the cai land I] steam b The above t The I Lake. 'A'here i which s a mile f jalf-dr-c six feet, and logj of the V matter, J ncss. some by the VOY/ At Bi are dispt little to would re ride ovei cnce.s h( comrnodi menfs. Weste troit, Ml passing ( gett's Po WESTERN KOL'TKS. «r here brought together : the entrance from ihe lake being sheltered by the point on which the light house is erected, and the two small rivers which here unite their waters^, affordiwg every convenience for landing and leshippmg goods. The shores of these are very bold, and they are connected by a natural channel, which serves the purposes of a basin, as well as of an easy communication ; and as the canal to Black Hock commences close by it, the in- land transportation be.ains without more ado. Fine steamboats are constantly plying on the lake. The water of the creek is brought into the village from above the falls, by a canal 3 miles long. The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore jf the Lake. The first part of it is through a low, sandy level, 'A'here the excavations were much impeded by the water which soaked through in great abundance. About half a mile from Buffalo, the workmen hit upon a bed of old jalf-df'cayed trees, which was dug into to the depth of six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many branches and logs were discovered, which preserved all the grain of the wood ; but the greater part was a black niass of matter, which, «m being dried, burned with great readi- ness. In some places, ashes and coals were found ; and some of the logs appeared to have been washed and rolled by the water of the lake before they were buried. VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE, AND WESTERN ROUTES. At Buffalo op-^ns a very extensive route, for those who are disposed to travel still farther westward. There is little to be seen along either shore of the Lake, which would reward a common traveller for the tedium of a long ride over a counirv generally level, or for the inconveni- ences he would experience from the want of public ac- commodations, and even the frequent absence of settle- ments. Western Routes. Two steamboats start daily for De- troit, Michigan, 311 miles, and arrive in about 36 hours, passing Cattaraugus, 20, Dunkirk 13, Portland, 18, Bur- gelt's Point, 18, Erie, 17, Aehtabula, Ohio, 39, Fairpoxt, r i i •'I iiS >VEaTEUN no U IKS, H i \' 32, Cleaveland, 30. (Here begins tlie Ohio and Erie Canal *) Sa:)diisky 54, ('unningham's Island, 12, North Bass Inlands, 10, Middle Sister Island, 10, Amhcrstburgh, Upper Canada, 20, to Detroit. 18. (For the routes west from Detroit, see beyond.) From Detroit to Chicago. Railroad to Ypsilanli, 33 miles, and either steamboat on Lake Michigan to St. Jo- seph's, 169, (or by land through Jonesville, 35, Cold- water, 20, Sturges' Prairie, 25, Mollville 17, St. Jo- seph's, 40 ) Or, by steamboat on Lake Huron, River St. Clair, 40, Palmer,' 17, Fort Gratiot, 14, While Rock, 40, Thunder Island, 70, Middle Island, 2i), Presque Isle, 65, Macki- naw, 58, Isle Brule, 75, Fort Howard, 100, Milwaukie, 310, Chicago, 90. Or, by steamboat, railroad and stage coaches, by steam- boat to Toledo, 71, railroad to Adrian, 33, stagecoach to Tecumseh, 10 Niles, 100, Michigan city, Indiana, 40, steamboat to Chicago, Illinois, 55. The following are the stopping places on the passage to Detroit, with their distances ; and steamboats run al- most every day. (See Ohio Canal, Inde.'t.) From Buffalo to Erie, 90 miles, Erie to Grand River, 75, Grand River to Cleaveland, 30, Cleaveland to San- dusky, 60, Sandusky to Detroit, 75, total 330. * The Ohio and Erie Canal, 307 miles lonp, extends to Ports- rnculh. It ims ilie breadth anil dapth of the New -York Erie Ca- iiul, and il85 lockage. From Cleuveland it pusres 37 miles along C'iyaiioga river, !lcro^s Tortage summit, down Tuscara *as river up Tonioka creek, up Licking river down the Sciota thruugh Cir- cleville, nearChiliicuthc to iho Oliio to Portsmouth. Distances Cleaveland to Cuyahoga Aqueduct 22 miles. Old Portage, 12, Now Portage, D. Clinton, 11, Bethlehem, 17, Bolivar, 9, Dover. 10, Newcomer's Town, 26, Coshocton, 17, Irville, 26, Newark, 13, Hebron, 10, 'iicking Summit, 5, Lrmcaster, 11. (Here ii 9. branch to Columbus, 18.) Bloomfield, 8, Circieville, 9, Chilli- cothe,25, Piketon, 2.'{, Lucusville. 14. Portsmoutli, 13. Steamboat Route down the Ohio and Mississippi to Neto-Or- Jeans. Portsmouth to Vancel)urgh, Kentucky, 20, Manchester, Ohio. 16, Muysviile, Kentucky, 11, Charleston, Ky, 4, Ripley, Ohio, 6. Augusta, Ky. 8, Neville, Ohio, 7, Moscow,7, Port Pleasant, 4, N. Richmond, 7,^Colunibia, 15, Fulton, 6, Cincinnati, 2, Louis- villfl, Kentucky, 143, Mississippi River, 366, New-Orleana, 1284. Tl of th An wnrdj ing rt the ro form f from t Erie, i See tl have J &C, CO Catara to the ] creeks tant fro distanc said to I tion. Sene and vah and the The Sell of the F rank in most nu periorlt} Schuylei spicuous R Bata lage, anc the Holl ings. It road rou p.'ace, 9] Lero^ Tho \| 4000 acn fhp hankc ;WI nOT:TK3 FROM IflAGARA TO ALDAXT. C9 Eiie ^orth argh, v\eat Li, 33 t. Jo- Cold- X. Jo- ir, 40, lunder ^acki- 'aukie, steatn- )ach to na, 40, )asaage run al- River, San- to Ports- iho Ga- les along as river lugh Cir- les. Old Bolivar, Mile, 2G, |l. (Here ), Chilli - ^euJ-Or- Ir.cliester, Ripley, Measant, Louis- . 1284. Tho United States government have improved several of these harbours. Ancient Fortifications. — On Buffalo Creek, and to- wards Geno^cc River also, are several laige and interest- ing remnants of ancient fortilications: bin as they lie ofV the road, lew travellers will visit them. They appear to form part of a great chain of detbiisivo workb, exiouding' from the eastern pjirt of Lake Ontario, along that Lake and Erie, down tho Ohio ond Mississippi Rivers to Mexico. See the books of Mr. Delatield and Mr. Atwater, who have published some very interesting details, drawings, &c. connected with rhem. A line of old forls extends from Cataraiigiis Creek ') miles, along the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Penn ^ivania. They are on the borders of creeks and old bays, although now from 2 to 5 miles dis- tant from the Lake, which ir, supposed to have retired that distance since they were built. Another similar line is said to exist in the rear of them, on another parallel eleva- tion. Seneca Castle. — The Seneca nation possess a large and valuable tract of land adjoining Buttalo on the east, and they have two vill'iges 3 and 5 miles on the road. The Senecas are the westernmost tribe in the confederacy of the Five Nations, and have always held a conspicuous rank in their history. They were formerly considered the most numerous and powerful tribe, and preserved this su- periority until the fatal defeat they received from General Schuyler, in 177 8, since which they have made a less con- spicuous figure. Road from Buffalo to Caxandaioua. Batavia, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome vil- lage, and contains the residence of the former Agents of tho Holland Land Company, as well as the county build- ings. It is 873 feet above tide. The sum.nilt of the rail- road route between Buflialo and Albany, is just w«!St of this p)ace, 912 feet. Leroy, 10 miles. Tho Wadsworth Farm, at Geneseo, contains about 4000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich alluvial land on the banks of Genesee river. I'll h r«-' '*mEI 1.1 70 nURNINO SPRINGS. •J . The Genosen moarlows aro tho wlioftt rrgion of tlie state, GO mil«*s UiUf^, and I or '2 iniliM wide, and composed of limestone and sand. Tliey were formerly the rei^idence of a liiri;e trilie of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and when Gen. Sullivan reaclK^d this place in his mrirch ihrouph the country, he fomid and hurnt a village of 120 lo:r houses, on the second bank, wliich had been deserted at his ap- proach. The remains of a Mammoth were dui( up about lialf a mile from thi" village of G.meseo in 18"25. There were 8 teeth and i^rinders, parts of a tusk, a thiiih bone .3 feet long, the lower bone of the leg, 3 fijet 6 inches, (fcc. They lay between strata of vegetable mould and sand. West Bloomfikld, beyond the Genesee River, is one of the finest agricultuial townships in the state, nnd pre- sents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with care and yielding the finest crops. Fcuit thrives remarkably well in all this western country. The prevailing winds are south west, and the climate rnild and uniform. Wheat some- times yields 52 bushels to the acre. East Bloomfield is the next village. Canandaksua. This is one of the finest western towns, nnd its principal street runs along the ridge ofacommand- ing hill, rising from the north end of Canandaigua Lake. It is wide, and contains an Academy, and many handsome houses. Tho road in passing Canandaigua Lake, com- mands a finer view than on any of theotht^r lakes it passes, except Skeneateles. The banks are high and vari(^gnted, and at the distance of two or three miles, rise to an imposing height, and add a great degree of beauty to the scene. A number of gentlemen's seats are seen along the western bank ; and a little way oif in the lake on the same side, is a small rocky island, where the Seneca Lidians carried all their women, children, and old men, when Gen. Sullivan appeared against them. Railroad cars go to Rochester and to Batavia every day. Burning Springs. Springs of water, charged with inflammable gas, are quite common in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua. The gas from the former rises through fissures of the ^late., from both the margin and the bed of the brook. Their places are known by little hillocks of a few feet iff ROUTE VROM NlAf.ARA TO ALBAWr. 1 I Btatc, ^P(l of ciicc iif I when jpli the |l()llSC3, his ap- ; )mlf a wero 8 ;ot long, .'hey lay r, is one nnd pre- pare and ihly wi^U re south at some- rn towns, Dmmand- i Lake, andsome ve, com- t paA3er<, n«^g:ited, imposing :cne. A western c side, is arriod all , Sullivan ivery day . ffcd with ddlesex. res of the ook. few feet Jn diameter, and a few inches hip;h, formed of a dark bitu- minous mould, throu<;h which il linds its way to the sur- face, in one or more currents These currents of pus may he 8(!t on lire, and will hum with a steady llarne. In win- ter tliey form openiii^rs throuizii the siu)w, and being set on fire, exhibit the novel and interesting phenomenon of u steady and lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold weather, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these curnuits of gas, ([)rohably from the freezing of the water contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height of two or three tV-et, th(» gas is>»uing from their tops; the whole wlum lighted in a still evening, present- ing an appearance even more bi'uutiful than the former. From a pit which was sunk in one of the hillocU^i, the gas was conducted through bored logs, to the kit<!hen of a dwelling. The novelty of the spectacle attracted a con- course of visiters, so great that the proprietors found it expedient to convert their dwelling into a public inn. The > oad between Carnindaigua and Geneva pa-ses over a singular tract of country. I'he ground gradually rises by large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the dis* tance, and di^scends in the same manner on the other side to Seneca Lake. They appear to have been formed by those strong currents of water of which geologists speak, which at some ancient period of time have evidently passed over many tracts o^ country in diflerent parts of the world. The ridges and channels thus formed here stretch north and south, frerpiently to a considerable dis- tance, correspiinding both in form and direction with the numerous lakes which are found in this part of the state. Several ancient fortifications have been traced here.— - From the middle ridge the view is extensive, but the sur- rounding country is of too uniform a surface to present any remarkakle variety of scenery. Geneva. This town occupies a charming situation at the foot of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its western bank, which rises to a considerable elevation above the surftice, and aftords room for v broad and level street. The buildings in this village are remarkably neat and handsome, and it has a college. Seneca Lake is 1)5 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. Tts d»»pth is nnn^ually great, and the water rlcjir and vory '■1 7*^ 7'Z Avnvns. I • Y- r.dld. to which U atrrihiitod tljp srnrcify of fisli. There 19 u r(Mnfirl\iiI>!ii ji'icnoTnt'iion lotiij; ()l)sr»vc(l hy those who rnsido nonrit, wliich him never Ixmmi sati^fiietoiily u' count- v(\ for. Th(? water h;is a re^uliir ri><e and fall every seven yearn. This is pcn^eptihh' aloiii^ the shore, i)Ut more prac- licnlly establishrd in tiic experience of the ho;itnieii. Cavuoa Lakf. is 40 miles in length, and tjenerally about two in hrea(hli. A fine hridi^e is huilt across it near the northern end, wIkm-o it is a miU' wide. A liltU^ ht'fore arrivmi: at fhi' head of the lake, in a steam- boat, a beautiful Wnl.rrJ'tdl is seen on the left hand, where a stream Hows over a very hi^h precipice into a deep glen, and foicos its way alon/j, turning several vnlnablc mills in its course. The landing place is about three miles t>om the village of Ithaca. The village of Itliaca is neat and flourishing. IJero centre the roads to CntsJii/l, Newburgh and New- York. The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson River, ihe second passes the (ireat Bend of the Delaware, and the lliird furnishes daily the shortest route to New-York. The Cascade. This beautiful and romantic scene is about three miles from the village. Auburn is another beautiful village, ard merits the name it has borrowed from Goldsmith's charming poetry. It is unfortunately placed at some distance from Oswego Lake, and therefore is deprived of the picturesque charac- ter which it might have enjoyed. There is a Presbyte- rian Theological Seminary in Auburn, and several hand- some public buildings in this place, but the most important is the Statk Prison. This institution, having been managed by iMr. Lynds, and the first established on his system so excellent, so celebrated, and with remarkable success, merits particular notice. Many of the new prisons in the United States are built after this general plan, which is also much approved in Europe. " The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost about $300,000. It was constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, enclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 feet in height. ** The new one, designed to contain 400 cells, covers only 206 by 46 feet of ground. Thtpre are fivo itorites df cells, TIOUTE PROM NlAOAnA TO ALHANT. 7n r-nrh rontainin* eighty in two piirallol linos, divulrd in tlio mitHlo by a wiill two feet thick. Tho wulU boLwron tho cells jin* OIK* foot thick. Tho colls aro seven foot lonsj, fln'cM hi:,'li, nrid throe nnd a half wide, intended to rrceivo ouly Olio convict in each. Euch coll has a veiitihitor ex- tendin:^ to tho roof, and is so coti'^trnctod in front, timt the prisoners cart noilher converse or make si£;ns to each other. Tho area around lh(> colls is 10 feet wide and open to tho roof, which (hovers the jinllories ol the several stories. Besides the moral l)one(it arising from k(vping the prisoners f^fpara'e, it nnites thnt of economy and secu- rity. From tho construction of tho prison, five small stoves, six large and twelve small lamp-s, all out of reach of the convicts, afford heat and light to 5.35 celU ; and one centin(d is sulficiontlo 'lOi) prisoners." Ancient Fortiji cations. There aro some remains of ancient tortitlcations in tho vicinity of this plac«\ as well as in tho neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onondaga, and Pompey. FiioM AuBiTRS TO Syracuse. /??/ the Canal, Similes. (Stagecoach to Weed's Basin,) 8 miles; .Ionian Village, in Camillas township, () ; Canton, (h;ilf-vvay village be- tween Buflalo and Albany, 179 miles from tho former, and 183 from the latter,) G ; Gcddes Village, (with salt works,) 12; Syracuse, 2. By the Road, 28 miles. Skeneateles, 8 ; Marccllus, 6; Onondaga, 10; Syracuse, 4. Syracuse. For a description of this plac?, as well as of Salina, the Salt Spring, and Salt Manufactories, see page 42, &c. Abcnit 3,000,000 bushels of salt made yearly. From Syracusk to IItica. Bt/ the Canal, 61 miles. Manlius Landing,* 9 miles; Chitteningo Creek, 8 ; Canas- tota Village and basin, 8 ; Oneida Creek, 5 ; Wood Creek, 13; Rome, 3 ; Oriskany Village, 8; Whitesborough, 3; Utica, 4. By the Road, 48 miles. Dome, 3 miles ; Manlius, 3 ; Sullivan, 9 ; Vernon, 11; Westmoreland, 6 ; New Hart- ford, 7 ; Utica, 4. For Uticay Hamilton College, and Trenton Falls, see page 38. * About 20 yards from the cnnnl, Gypsum (plaster of Paris) is obtained in niassQB of from I to 100 tons. 'I *:\ u STILLWATER. tf I- From Uliea to Schenectady, by the Canal 7D^ miles ' Itock, No. 53, (end of the long level, which begins weTJt* ward atSalina, and extends to this place, 69^ miles, with- out a lock,) 9 miles; Bridge over the Mohawk, and Her- kimer Village, 5; Little Falls, 8j Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet higher than the canal, 712 above h'gh water in the Hudson River, and about 145 above Lake Erie, 1; Old Mohawk Castle, 5; Fort Plain, \)\ '; Canajoharie, 4 ; a railway has been proposed to run hence to Catskill, 60; Anthony's Nose, 5 ; (this scene is repre- sented in the plate from this side — the bluff on the right i«» Anthony's Nose, on the top of which » remarkable cavern opens, extending further down than it has ever been explored) J Schoharie Creek, 11; Amsterdam Vil- Ip.ge, (across the river,) 5; Flint Hill, 6 ; Rotterdam Flats? 8 ; Schenectady, 3. Road to Albany^ \h\ miles. ROUTE FROM ALBANY tO THE SPRINGS. IVatcrford is situated on the west side of the Hudson- ncross which is a bridge. Lansinghurgh stands oppo.siuv and is a place of considerable size. The streets of Water- ford are wide, regular, and handsomely built. Some oi tho private houses are remarkable for their neatness. There are numerous rocky islands with precipitoos sidos, at the mouth of the Mohawk River, which are seen at a little distance below the bridge. To these, the American Army, under Gen Schuyler, retreated in 1777, before Gen. Burgoyne, and before the battle of Saratoga. The bonl:* on the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk in full view of them, through guard locks, and are poled across, the current being stopped by a dam. Waterford is 21^ rniloi? from Ballston Springs, and 24 to Saratoga, hy raiiroari. Stillwatlr is Hi miles above Wateiforcl ; and 4 miles beyond that place is Smithes Tavern, where those vi\\\ stop who visii the battle ground, at Behniis's Heights. Although the great crowd of travellers on this road will take the road to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as tlvey will tiud few objects of any interest, it may be })roper to introdu Gon. B known within i Stiih quietne The gives ai the Fiv( Canada gunpow ization. sequent Canada, frequent war witl upon in Thei revolutic ratoga, c appro acli "ICG Arnold I self wit! and that my coun for her ir should tl of N«?w- patrioiisr water, or examinee with ard and rapti impossib troversy iiappines and of it fl umber t ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 75 , with" I Her^ ►untain above above in, OJ •; I hence I repre- le right arkable as ever im Vil- li Flats :> NGS, )pposiu> f Water- Some of leatncss, ns aifles, K-en at « Uiieiican ore Gen/ 'he bnnt;* full vie\r rnss, the 11^ Tnilo.9 ilroan. ; and 4 re those jehmis's hrs r(>ad as tlvey iroper to introduce, in this place, an account of the expedition of Gen. Burgoyne, and the battle ol Behrnis's Heights, often known by le name of the battle of Saratoga, as we are within a low mil'^s of the field. vStillwaier takes ita name from the smoothness and quietness of the Hudson. The first battle within this region, of which history gives any account, was fought between the French and the Five Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada, when the latter first learned the terrible eti'ect of gunpowder, and began to flee from the approach of civil- ization. In the numerous expeditions which at sub- sequent periods were undertaken by the British against Canada, this route was taken in the attack, and not un- frequently m the retreat. The revolution and the last war with England, produced scenes which will be touched upon in their places. The first period to which we shall refer, is that of the revolution ; and the first scene that of the battle of Sa- ratoga, or Behrnis's Heights, towards which wc are ia.st approaching. ** I could here," says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy my- self with recollecting, that to his invincible gallantry, and that of the brave officers and soldiers whom he led, my country was, under God, indebted In a,primo degree, for her independence, and ail its consequent blessings. I should think that an American, peculiarly an inhabitant of N«?w-Englandor New-York, little to be envied, whose patriotism did not gain force upon the heights of Still- water, or the plains of Saratoga. These scenes I have examined: the former with solemnity and awe, the latter with ardour and admiration, and both with enthusiasm and rapture. Here I have remembered ; and here it was impossible not to remember, that on this very spot a con- troversy was decided upon which hung the liberty and ss of a nation destined one day to fill a continent ; happi and of its descendants, who will probably hereafter out- number the inhabitants of Europe." IH -. Jh I, $ BVRQOTNE S EIPEDITIOII. f!;t BcROoTNE'a Expedition. General Burgoyne* rrso appointed Governor of Canada in 1777, lo succeed Sir * Oeneral Burgoyne — (From an Engliah Work.)~'U is eurioiiA^ thrt a man o( such celebrity as a writer, a senator, and an oifi- cer, ai the tate Lieut Joha Burgoyne, should be found among tiH> number of those of whose youthful days no memorial has been preserved. Neither the lime, place, nur circumstances of his liirtb are known. Even his parentage is doubtful. He is said, but upon what authority it does not appear, to have been a naturui son of that Lord Bingly, who died at an advani^ed aire in 1774. 1 hat he had the advantage of a libnrah education and early intercourse with polished society, is sufficiently evident trom his writings ; and it is probable that he was enrly devoted to the profession of arms^ for on the 10th of May, 1759, he was raised to the rank of Lieut. Colonel, and in August of the ensuing year, he was ai>puinted Lieut. Col. CommnndHnt of the 16th Light Dragoons. Ilis afler services at different periods, in Spain, Portugal, and America, are all well known, especially the unfortunate terminatioit of his mi- litnry career at Saratoga, which, though it tarnished not bis ho- nour, cast a shade over his brow, ever afterward conspicuous to the physiogoomica) eye. He made, on certain oecasion»<, no ordinary ti^'ure in P&rlian>ent. Ho moved in the first circles, and married liudy Charlotte Stanley, a daughter of the Earl of Derby ; and yet we know not who and what he originally was. He was the author of four successful dramas : the Maid of the Oak, the Lord of the Mauor, Richard Cceur de Lion, and the comedy of the Jieiress ; and yet the curiosity of his biographer, even in thiv aiiecdote-dealii)g and meraolr-sifting age, cannot trace his origin o. the scenes of his education. IMie lale of the Lord of the Ma- lior s^'oms, in some degree, to have been disguised in the inoiiifica- tioii of the character and circunidtaiices by the incident of his own ^iintrimonial connexion : for his was a clandestine and unauthoriz- ed marriage, at a lime when he held only RBiiiiallenrs commission in the army ; and hi said to have excited at first the resentment of the lady's father to aiich a degree, that he declared his resolution sever to admit the offenders into his presence, though in process^ Iff time, the anger of the Earl subsided, a reconciliation was effect- ed, and was succeeded by a warm and lasting attachment. It i» prubable, also, that the memory of his lady, who died in 177U, aS Konsington Palace, during his absence in America, is ombalmeti hy the affectionate regrets of the General, in thai beautiful air f^ hia composition : '* Encompassed in an angePs frame, An angel's virtues lay f Too soon did heaven assert the claim. And call its own away. My Anna's worth, my Anna's charms, Must never more return ' What now shall fill theso widow'd arms t Ah me I ray Anna's urn !" >> ' \.-^ ' '1 • L ' ' eed Sir I eurioun^ d an offi- »(in{,' tiu> lias lieen hia hirtb bui upon ul son of T hat he tercourse inps; and I ofaruis^ of Lieut. i:))puinted His after oerica, are of his mi- nt bis ho- lous to the 3 ordinary d married erby; and ie wa* the , the Lord dy of the en in thiir his origin )f the Ma- ) ino4lifica- of bis own aauthoriz- oniiniission .nimciit of resolution n process was efFuct- icnt. It i» |in 1771), as emb^ilmetS tifulaw f^~ EOUTK TO THE SPRINGS. #7 Guy Carlton. He arrived at Quebec in May, and reach- ed Crown Point, June 20ih. General Phillips was sent to Ticonderoga with the British right wing; and the out- posts and the fort were successively abandoned by the Americans The news of the evacuation of this place was a most disheartening piece of intelligence to the country. During his delay, General Schuyler obstructed the channel of Wood Creek, retnoved every thing valuable from the country, and took the si ores from Fort George to Fort Edward ; sending for regular troops, and calling for the militia of the neighbouring states, both which were supplied. General Arnold and Colonel Morgan joined him with a body of riflemen, and General Lincoln with the New-England militia; and he fell back to Sara- toga, to Stillwater, and finally to the islands at the mouth of the Mohawk. Battle op Bbnnington. Being in want of provi- sions. General Burgoyne had despatched Lt. Col. Baum with his Hessians, to seize the public stores at Benning- ton. He was supported by Lt. Col. Brechman, who stopped at Baton Kill. Brig. Gen. Stark with the New- Hampshire troips, joined by Col. Warner, attacked Col. Banm at the Wallotnsack River, where they were en- camped, July I6th, (1777,) and in two hours, forced their works, and completely defeated them. Colonel Warner began the attack on Col. Brechman, wounded him mor- tally, took him prisoner, and put his troops to flight. 226 of the British troops were killed at the battle of Bennington, or rather the battle of Hoosac, as it was fought in that town. 700 soldiers were taken prisoners, and 36 officers. Gen. Gates now received the command of the American troops, which had been greatly re-enforced ; and took a position on Behmis's Heights, a ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, about a quarter of a mile from the ri- ver, and stretching off towards the northwest, which of- fered great advantages for the defence of the road. Gen. Gates' Camp was about half a milo from the road on the loft, and his quarters were in a house which was yet 3 landing when the author visited tho spot. A bj^-i-oad > ■>.,: it > ' . i '' M fm -fii %^ 'mm 78 BATTLE OF SAP.ATOrfA. leads to the place, and the old intrcnchments, and after- wards you may proceed along the hoii,^htd, which were oc- cupied by the American troops. By making u considerable circuit, by a road in some places rodgh, you may ride over the encampment and the scenes ot the two battles, and then come back to the river at Smith's little tavern, 3 miles above this place, or cross over to the Springs. The space between the river and the hill was crossed by a deep intrenchment defended with artillery, and almost impracti- cable. The American Lines, three-quarters of a mile long, were furnished with a breast work of logs, (the hills being almo;^t entirely a forest,) and the left terminated opposite the enemy's right. From the left almost to the centre, the ground is level, and was paily cleared, yet much enciim- l)ered with fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left of the centre, had a battery — thence a ravine ran to the right. The British Lines, stretched from a hill opposite the American left, in a straight line across the meadow to the Hudson River. The enemy moved forward, and encamp- ed in two lines, about two miles from Gen. Gates ; his left on the river, and his right extending at right angles to it, across the low grounds about six hundred yards, to the lofty heights occupied by his elite, having a creek or gal- ley in his front, mode by a rivulet which issued from a great ravine, formed by the hills, which ran in a direction nearly parallel to the river, until within half a mile of the American camp. The Northern or Champlain canal, and the coach road, now cross the ground occupied by the American right, and soon afterwards that occupied by the British lines. The Battle Ground is on an elevated plain, about two miles above General Gates' camp, and the same dis- tance west from Smith's tavern. It may be taken in the way from the Springs, hot it is better to go first to Smith's for a guide, and to take or prepare for refreshment. From Smith's to the battle ground, the road is quite romantic, along the south side of Cumminskill, with a steep bank on each side for a part of the distance. Here Burgoyne marched up to extend his right, and turn the Americao left. The open ground at th© end is the field of battle. (■; llOl'TE VO THE Sr KINGS. 79 after' re oc- erable e over s, and em, 3 The a deep ipracti- G long, Is being )pposito itre, the enciim- >, left of he rights osite the w to the encamp- ; his left jles to it, Is, to the k or gul- from a direction tie of the Itch road, ^ght, and in, about iame dis- jn in the Smith's It. From Jomantic, bank on lurgoyne ticanleft. The most severe fighting in the first battle, was at a lit- tle knoll, in a field on the south. Battle of Sept. 19th. — In the morning, it was re- ported by Col. Colburn, who was watching the enemy, that they were beginning to ascend the hill towards the Ameri-^ can left. Gen. Gates sent Col. Morgan to oppose them, and the firing began about noon* '1 he action extended, and in three hours was general, and continued without in* terruption till dark. The American troops engaged amounted to 3000 ; the British to 3500. The following account is from General Wilkinson. " This battle was perfectly accidental ; Burgoyne's move- ment being merply to take ground on the heights in front of the great ravine, and on our side, the defences of our camp being not half completed, and re-enforcements daily arriving, it was not General Gates' policy to court an ac- tion. The misconception of the adverse chiefs put them on the defensive, and confined them to the ground they casually occupied at the beginning of the action, and pre- vented a single manoeuvre, during one of the longest, warmest, and most obstinate battles fought in America. Gen. Gates believed that his antagonist intended to attack him, and circumstances appeared to justify the like con- clusion on the part of Burgoyne ; and as the thickness and depth of the intervening wood concealed the position and movements of either army from its adversary, sound cau- tion obliged the respective commanders to guard every as- sailable point; thus the flower of the British army, the grenadiers and light infantry, one thousand five hundred strong, were posted on an eminence to cover its right, and stood by their arms, inactive spectators of the conflict, un- til near sunset ; while Gen. Gates was obliged to keep his right wing on post, to prevent the enemy from forcing that flank, by the plain bordering on the river. Had either of the generals been properly apprised of the dispositions of his antagonist, a serious blow might have he'^ \ struck on our left, or the enemy's right ; but although noining is more common, it is as illiberal as it is unjust, to determine the merits of military operations by events exclusively. It was not without experience that the Romans erected temples to Fortune. Later times might aflbrd motives for edifices, in which Genius or Wisdom would havo no voiarics." m m* ■^H IHni ^^19 M^ f.^V^^Wi*-^! w* ' ■< Jtl^Hf-SaljWl Ml iK^H^Iml w Wmr^ 3wS' 1 i fmwl mmwM m |fiii-yll'v^ ml'«^F vivl Wr-il '- llH^Bm' 'Ew»'''-^ ' '.ItimI An HolLvM K if E" r^f ' i'M t^ ' t'^ 1 ^k ! « BLlB' ' ^ivB ^UiiS * m^BVi m-% I^Ib ' Iwflj?^ ' iSvitt *' ^^M, 1 aiM||^ i BM«k4Kw 1 * "i n ' Wmt •■ ,|l f lir^' ^ ' mi^M m '"Hi It 80 BATTLK OF SARATOGA- // ixi ". r Battle of October ^th. Gene: al Wilkinson gives the following description of this battle : — " The enemy were formed across u. now cultivated field, their grenadiers with several field pie res on the left, bor- dt.'ilng on a wood, and a small ravine formed by the rivu- let before alluded to ; their light infantry on the right, covered by a worm fence at the foot of the hill before mentioned, thickly covered with wood ; their centre com- posed of British and German battalions. Col. Morgan, with his u?v.al sagacity, proposed to make a circuit with his corps by our left, and under covei of the wood to gain the height on the right of the enemy, and from thenco commence his attack, so soon as our fire should be opened against their left ; the plan was the best which could be devised, and no doubt contributed essentially to the prompt and decisive victory we gained." " This proposition was approved by the General, and it was concerted thra time should be allowed the Colonel to make the proposed circuit, and gain his station on the enemy^3 rif^ht before the attack should be made on their left: Poor's brigade was ordered for this service, and the attack was commenced in due season on the flank and front of the British grenadiers, by the New-Hampshiro and New-York troops. True to his purpose, Morgan, at this critical moment, poured down like a torrent from the hill, and attacked the right of the enemy in front and flank. Dearborn, at the moment when the enemy's light infantry were attempting to change front, pressed forward with ardour, and delivered a close fire ; then leaped the fence, shouted, charged, and gallantly forced them to retire in disorder; yet headed by that intrepid soldier the Earl of Balcarras, ihey were immediately rallied, and re-formed behind a fence in rear of their first position ; but being now attacked with great audacity in front and flanks by superior numbers, resistance became vain, and the whole line, commanded by Burgoyne in person, gave way, and made a precipitate and disorderly retreat to his camp, leaving 2 twelve, and 6 six pounders on the field, with the lossof nore than 400 officers and men, killed, wound- ed, and captured, and, among them, the flower of his offi- cers, viz : — Brigadier General Frazer, Major Ackland,. comiiianding the grenadiers, Sir Francis Claik, his first \^/ \' ^ S.lu ri- j8 the 1 field, ft, bor- e rivu- right, before rc com- 'i organ, jit with to gain ihenco opened ould be to the il, and it olonel to n on the on their , and the ;iank and impshiro organ, at from the nd flank. ; infantry rd with |he fence, retire in Earl of k-formed lut being lanks by le whole /ay, and ^s camp, »ld, with [y wound- bis offi- ^cklandr I his fivst i:!'' //...■,' II I n» m i in artillc and n by the liorrot fifteen death, two o ppeecJ my, pa exr'air my eye tliirteej a wour Inquiri comma Major . this pla corps, u the live Qua, stands I is a spo the rive: apj/ie ti canal. oflT, on battle, t ground £ Smith's, roness ] were its were her cers. A her child net Ackl British G * Gener the road s iJuarked by irv-'-.i ROUTE TO THE srHlNGS. 81 aid-dc-camp, Major Williams, commanding officer oftho artillery, Captain Money, deputy qunrtermaster general, and many others.** The ground which hud heon occupied hy the British grenadiers presented a scone of complicated horror and exultation. In the square space of twelve or fifteen yards lay eighteen grenadiers in the agonies of death, and three officers propt up against stumps of trees, two of them mortally wounded, bleeding, and almost speechless. " With the troops I pursued the hard pressed flying ene- my, passing over killed and wounded until 1 heard one exr'aim, *' protect me, Sir, against this boy." Turning my eyes, it was my fortune to arrest the purpose of a lad thirteen or fourteen years old, in the act of taking aim at a wounded officer who lay in the angle of a worm fence. Inquiring his rank, he answered, '* I had the honour to command the grenadiers;" of course, I knew him to bo Major Ackland, who had been brought from the field to this place, on the back of a captain Shrimpton of his own corps, under a heas y fire, and was here deposited, to save the lives of both." Quarters of General Burgoyne. The house now stands by the road side, but the place where it then was is a spot at the foot of the hill, and about 200 yards from the river. The cellar is still to be seen, in a held near an ap|<ie tree, a little north of the road that crosses the canal. Willard's mountain is an eminence a few miles off, on the opposite side of the river. During the last battle, the Americans had a few cannon on the rising ground above the eastern shore, a quarter of a mile above Smith's, and thence proceeded the shot of which the Ba- roness Reidesel speaks. Several ladies of distinction were its inmates at the time when the British troops were here, being the wives of some of its principal offi- cers. Among these were the Baroness Reidesel, with her children, wife of General Reidesel, and Lady Har- riet Ackland, wife of Major Ackland, commander of the British Gr«. -"adiers. The former published an account of * General Frazer was shot in the meadow, near the fence by the road side, just south of ilie blacktmitli's shop. The spot u ijuarked by the third tree in a row of poplars. ii' 82 BALi.s'row spni:s(.^. .It 'II *< whfit slie saw during this trying and dftngertnis contrsf, after her return to Europe. The house was convrrU'd to an hospital during the second battle, and Gen. Fru- died on tlie 8th of October in what is now the oar lu .1. His grave is on the hill. Ballston Springs. This village is situated in a little valley surrounded by hilU, which have the aspect of hav- ing once been the bed of a small lake. The high ground enclosing it, gives an air of seclusion to the place, at the .same time that it furnishes a variety of pleasant scenery. The Kaydurosseros brook flows through the valley, in sotno places overhung by forest tre«^*s. Railroads lead to Saratoga Springs, Troy and Schenectady. The Sans Souci Hotel is the principal house in the place. It has a fine piazza opening upon the streets, and presents a front of 156 feet long, with a wing extend- ing back from each end 150 feet, all of them three Rtories high, and containing in all lodging for nearly 150 persons. The variety of scenery in the neighbourhood is sufficient to attract many of those who resort to this place of health and pl(.?a.sure. The Washington Spring was opened in 1827, by boring 237 feet deep, through blue slate rock, near the Old Spring. It has a tube sunk the whole distance, made partly of iron and partly of tin, and affords a most delight- ful sparkling water, which boils over the top. In August of that year, several months after it was opened, the water was forced into the air to the height of 12 or 14 feet, without any perceptible cause, in a constant jet, fur about half an hour. The water then disappeared, and was afterwards di.scovered slowly rising till it again overflowed. It was for a time flat and turbid ; but soon recovered all its clearness, gaseous pungency and sparkling. Thk Lafayette Spring, which yields a fine and sparkling chalybeate water, was discovered early in the summer of 1825. It is supposed by many to be in fact identical with the "Old Spring." It is very cold and highly charged with oxyde of iron and carbonic acid gas, which have given it a high reputation. The Old Spring, which is in the middle of the street, was the Ih'i^t di-icoverod in all this oart of the countrv. It 1 I i'li :ontr:vr, ivorU'd n. Fr«- the bar a little of hav- ground ftl the scenery. lUey, in ids lead BO in the streets, r extend- tn three 'arly 150 sufficient of health 827, by ^r the Old e, made it delight- (n August ncd, the |12 or 14 t jet, for I, and Nvua rflowod, ivered all Ifine and ly in llie je in fact ;old and \cid gas, le street, ^itTV. It ii I 7. ^V-J 1 ►Vifif - m".lli mi-. h I I SAUATOfSA. Ufwi'l lliaf tlip inhH))itant^ wero infliirrd to triMt. to its pc- •fiilinr virtiM's by tlu» «*Xiimi»l(» of the doer of thr* forraf, which hii'l resorted to it in such numhrra as to form hciitpri jmths from every direction to the spot. In 17yS2 there was notn houso within two miles of this spot. The Old Sprina^ huH l(»st much of its original excellence, which uppeursj to be in a good degree transferred to the new ones. The Saline, or United States Spring is nenr the bath- ing house connected with the Sans Souci. It was disco- vered about 18 years since, and contains a larn;e (piantity of oxyde of iron, togetlier with glauber atxl other salts, go that it is at once a sirotig saline, and clialybeate water. The New Spring is near the Sans Si)uci hotel. It was obtained in 1827 by boring to the depth of about 300 feet, and is full of gas, very sparkling, ai;d considered both saline and chalybeate. The neighbouring cotmtry was almo«t a perfect wilder- ness at tlin close of the revolutionary war; for the natural military route between Canada and the United States lay through it, to the Five Nations of Indians, and war par- ties were frequently passing over it. For some years the only place where visiters could find shelter here, was in a log house, near the Old Spring, which was for some time the only object of notice. SARATOGA SPRINGS. Saratoga Springs arc 7 miles from Ballston Springs bv the railroad. Saratoga is quite concualed until you are within a short distance, and then the clusters of frail board buildings which spring up among the stumps of trees lately felled in the skirts of the pine forest, show what an unnatural sur- plus of population the place contains during the visiting season, which is principally in July and August. From the brow of a hill which descends into the village, the street lies in full view, with all the principal houses. On the right is Congress Hall three etories high with a row of 17 columns, rising from the ground to the eavos ; opposite is Union Hall with a row of 10 similar columns; over which aro scon the brick wallg of the United States 8* •i Hi THE STRINGS. Hotel ; an(1 still beyond, and on the other side, the roof of the PaviUon. From this view the village is represented in the accnnnpanying print, which was taken on the spot. At the foot of the hill, the Congress Spring, the great attraction of the place, is seen at a short distance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng of people. Congress Hall has an impos*ing appearance. It is 19G feet long on the street, with two wings of 60 feet rnnning back, and containslodging for 150. The first floor in front is divided in the following manner : a dining room in the middle, capable of containing tables for all the house can accommodaio ; next the dancing hall, about 80 feet long } and south ihe ladies' private parlour. The price of board is $ 1 per week. The United Stales Hall is a fine building of brick, three stories high, with a colonnade. The Pavilion, Those who wish to drink often of the Flat Rock water, will prefer it, as that Spring is only a few steps from it in the rear. There is a fine Bathing House connected with it, and a shady little wood not far beyond by the road side, on the way to the Kound Rock •Spring. Union Hall is the resort of those who wish to have the most convenient access to the waters of the Congress Spring, or to participate more moderately in the amuse- ments of the place, and to avoid the inconveniences of gaiety and mirth, produced by the continued rotmd of balls and dances in the other principal houses. The Congress Spring, which is the great source from which this place derives its celebrity and its show of weiilth and importance, was discovered by Mr. Putnam, He built the first house near it for the accommodation of invalids, which was subsequently enlarged to the present Union Hall, now kept by his son. The Congress Spring was long conctaled by the neigh- bouring brook which formerly passed over it ; but its valua- ble qualities being discovered, it has attracted universal attention, and the benefits of its waters are annually dis- pensed to thousands. Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis ; half a gal- lon contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and magneaia, w ith a slight trace of iron. r i ;• w B TOf/f »eiited spot. grent m the i3l9G nnning n front in the ase can t long r f boarc\ ' brick; I of the \ only a Bathing I not far ad Rock lave the 'ongrcsft ( amuse- mces of of balla rce from wenlth iHe built Invalids, It Union le noigh- |t» vaUia- inivcr*al illy dis- If a gol- iRgneaia, r ^ ill i'li I 'ii i, ii : fill. '}MMmm. ':l|liii':;ii; ■ . ii|iili'i!i I'll''-'! III' 111 ;■/'■■ ; ' '■', 'l 'II ■ It,:. W' mm !'i!''l' ■ II i "-« iiiii ''a iii: I Ji i ! pi 'I'l III, '■■ ■;!■ I ;fci|i".. Ii i;iil"i';ii '■' it,iii;M' |iP' i'liiPliii w. i y.'^ ti JH Pi' ■,•»'.! '> •• ^ .»*" ^ 1. I: ■' L' tit ■■ »( ' "k "• • 7 8tro( T ns a mucl Sara the d feebl( vvatei cal fc inche at the ers of Ihn ping < top, ig rouo^h times niattei similai It is liam J known report years f a Jarge The Mill scienti I)rogrei teres tir in diffei there Marcel springs i*;iy, anc ties. « The pe are ass accomp tries, i Iron, j THE SPRINGS. 85 The Flat Rock Spring is near the upper end of the? street, and in the rear of the Pavilion. The Round Rock Spring is worthy of a visit merely n3 a natural curiosity ; the water, although for a time much celebrated, and indeed the only attraction of which Saratoga could boast, having gone into disrepute, since the discovery of the sources already mentioned. It is a feeble chalybeate with little taste and little effect. The water rises in a small rock of calcareous tufa, of a coni- cal form, with a circular hole in the middle, about five inches in diameter. The rock is about five feet through at the base, and has evidently been produced by the lay- ers of lime deposited by the water. Ihat part of the rock which is most exposed to the drip- ping of water taken out in cups through the hole in the top, is always smooth and even, while other parts arc rough and broken. Fractures made by visiters are some- times found half obliterated bv a recent coat of calcareoos matter formed in this manner. A horizontal rock, of similar formation, extends under ground. It is said that the Round Rock was shown to Sir Wil- liam Johnson by an Indian, before which time it was un- known to white men. The water, according to common report, formerly flowed over the top, but has for many years found its way below, through a crevice produced by a large forest tree which fell and cracked the rock. The Iodine Spring is near the Round Rock. Mineral Springs and Minerals of New-York. A scientific survey of the state of New-York < has been in progress several years, the reports of which are highly in- teresting. Numerous springs of almost all sorts are found in different counties. Besides those mentioned in this book, there are petrifying springs at Watervliet, Chiiteningo^ Marcellus, Governeur, St. Lawrence, Ithaca, &c. Brine springs in Cortlandt county, York, Lenox, Vernon, Mur- ray, and elsewhere in Orleans, Wayne and Oswego coun- ties. Sulphureous and chalybeate are most n- incrous.— The petrified shells, &c. fouikl in many of the rocKy strata, are associated with petrified plants of the same species as accompany them in Europe. Specimens from both coun- tries, if accidentally mixed, could not be discriminated. Iron, lea'l. coj>psr, zinc, pl'imbajo and other mine* ;*;H .%: U ?)<S SARATOQA. ^ntl beds are numerous. The Rossie lead minr> St. Law- fence county, is remarkably rich and valuable, and aboundi in a variety of beautiful minerals. Education. This state has made most creditable progress in public education. A small sum is annually paid out of the Nchool fund to common school districts, which have expend- ed an equal amount on schools regularly conducted ; and the system is now frt^neral. The share of the surplus reve- luie has been appopriated to the purchase of district libra- ries; and about 10,000 libraries of 50 volumes each, are now gratuitously open to the children and adults, under the charge of the teachers. The colleges and about 80 acada- nies are under the superintendence of the Regents of the University, and aided with money from the literature fund. Scientific observations are made at the academics, and full reports annually returned. Saratoga Lake. An excursion to this beautiful piece of water, is one of the most agreeable that can be made in nny direction. It is 6| miles distant, in a southeasterly direction, and is frequently visited by parties from Saratoga. The lake extends seven miles in length and is two in breadth. The shores are bold and varied, gently descend- ing with a smooth slope to the margin, or rising in rugged crag's trom the water's eAg^.\ sometimes sofiened and beautified by the hand of cultivation, and sometimes aban- doned to all their native wildness. The Reading Room. Strangers will find newspapers from diflieient parts of the country. A record will also be found at the same place, into which the arrivals and departures of visiters are copied, once a day> from the books of the principal houses. The Battle Ground. The defeat of General Burgoync in the year 1777, took place a few miles east from the Springs. See page 78. Remarks on the Routes. North* Three great routes from the Springs towards the north may be particularized, although they run almost side by side, and all unite on ai riving at Lake Champlain. 1st, The fashionable route, to Caldwell on Lake George. 2d, The road to White- hall. 3d. By stagecoach and canal to Whitehall.* i. ^1. * Tliera also are two stage routes to Montreal, one on each side of Lake Champlain. are lapers \goync the I routes irized, lite on I route, ^lute- in each THE SPRLNGi. 87 The first of these is usually travelled by strangers of taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine scenery of Lake George, and the battle grounds in its vicinity ; and passes near several other spots of high interest for their historical associations. Even if a journey to Mon- treal is intenaed, it can hardly be too urgently pressed upon the stranger to devote a leisure day or two to Lake George on his way, as he will find himself most amply rewarded and can join the great route with facility at Ticonderoga. The traveller should stop at Ticonderoga to see the ruins of the old fortress. If he can visit Lake George, he may take the beautiful scenery, and interesting sites of that attractive region in his way. If he has not time for that, he may land at Ticonderoga, where a steamboat wharf has just been built, and a commodious house fitted up this season, and devote at least one day to a rnmble about that picturesque and celebrated point. The second route is the road to Whitehall, which is furnished with public carriages from the Springs during the warm season, and like the canal passes near some of the interesting places to be mentioned hereafter. From Whitehall the traveller may proceed down Lake Cham- plain in the daily steamboats, or by land in the mail coach. East. Travellers wishing to go to any part of the country in this direction, may take their choice of several routes. Lin^ 8 of stagecoaches run to Connecticut River, from Burlington, Middlebury, Castleton, and Gr'^nville, as well as from Troy and Albany, in various directions — to Hanover, Brattleborough, Greenfield, Northampton, Springfield, Hartford ; and there subdividing into nume- rous ramifications, oifer the means of conveyance to every part of New- England. The most interesting route that can be chosen by a man of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is through Vermont to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee Lake in New-Hampshire. He may take what road he pleases to Connecticut River; and then proceed to Bath on it.«* eastern shore, pursuing the course of the Lower Am- monoosuc River to the White Mountains. 1 1' \i Vtii m n-- L* If't ' i: 'js;i ^■n sU' t*\l aim Z9 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. This is by far the most delightful, as well us fashiona- ble excursion which can be made from the Springs in any direction, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery in the United States, and in numerous sites •'nd objects inti- mately c'»nnected with the history of the country. For Lake George, 27 m. a stagecoach starts daily, after the arrival of the Albany train of cars, with six horses, and passing through Glenn's Falls, arrives by daylight. The beautiful and commodious steamboat Wm. Caldwell, Capt. Larrabee, plies on the lake daily (Sundays excepted.) The lino is complete, rapid and convenient on this roilte to Lake Champlain, as coaches await the boat at the end of the lake, and go on to Ticonderoga. The boat waits 3i hours, which is sufficient time to see Ticonde- roga, dine and return. There the traveller finds a good hotel ; and, after reviewing the interesting ruins and scenery, may go back to Lake George, or pass down Lake Champlain to Canada. The splendid steampacket Burlington, Capt. R. W. Sherman, and the Whitehall, Capt. Lyons, touch daily at the new dock at Ticonderoga Point, which has been con- fetructed for their convenience by Mr. Pell, proprietor of the place. The ruins remain in the same state of careful preservation in which they were kept by the late Alfred H. Pell, Esq. to whose taste and intelligence visiters to this interesting spot will be indebted for much gratification. The fine and extensive garden, enriched by him with some curious exotics, is worthy of attention. There will be found, in luxuriant growth, several plants rarely found -.in so cold a climate: the cork tree, French willow, Euro- pean vines, &c. From the time of the earliest wars between the British colonies and the French in Canada, to that of 1755, the tract over which part of our route lies was the high road of war. It was traversed by many a hostile expedition, in which the splendour and power of European arms mingled with the fierce tactics of savage warriors: the rums of fortresses are still to be traced in several places, and tradition points to many a spot that has been sprin- kled with lilood. During the revolution, also, some of /? ,A :y^--N N. <niof,i,^q V. '■x?^ >: ..^iMl">,t>*J s. hiona- in any lery in ts inti- j, after horses, lylight. ildwell, epted.) Id rovlte at the he boat !"iconde- , a good in3 and vn Lake R. W. daily at een con- rietor of careful e Alfred rs to this lification. im with lere will ily found |w, Euro- British [755, the ligh road Ipedition, m arms lors: the il places, |en sprin- Bome of I'l I : > t )l i. I nm the impo neighbou The h Wilton, / off eastwi Haifa a rich pli is now di while the spire, anc the moLin French which mo further to Glenn Hudson a descent of which has the curren two Jarg^ sheets. On the plain Cam Cavern the north, is just lar^ is cut witi 25 feet, most inte Last of th About h convoy of their way Nearly and a litth them pasi west, a ra east, the Near th the east sii advanced Fort Edw ., » CI INN S FALLS. 89 the important events in our histoiy took place in this neighbourhood. 7^he Road from Saratoga to Glenn's Falls, 18 miles. Wilton, 7 m. Thirteen miles beyond, tiie road branches off eastward for Sandy Hill. Haifa mile bel'oro reaching the village, the road enters a rich plain, probably once overflown by the river, which is now discovered on the left, dividing it in its course, while the village appears in front, with a handsome chnrcii spire, and a number of neat white houses, all backed by the mountains, which here stretch off towards the north. French Mountain is the most prominent eminence, of which more anon A more distant range is likewise seen further to the right. Glenn's Falls. From the bridge, the falls m the Hudson are in full view. The river here makes a sudden descent of 37 feet, over a rock of dark blue limestone, which has been worn into so many forms as to break up the current in a very singular manner. The projection of two largiB masses of rock divides the water into three sheets. On the north side of the river is a feeder to the Cham- plain Canal. Caverns. The mouths of two caverns are found facing the north, in different places among the rocks. The first is just large enough to permit the passage o^ a man, and is cut with surprising regularity for a distance of about 25 feet. This place is made the scene of son>e of the most interesting chapters of Mr. Cooper's novel of the Last of the Mohicans. About half way between this place and Sandy Hill, a convoy of wagons was attacked in the French war, on their way to Lake George. Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne Mounfain ; and a little to the right of it, French Mountain. Between them passes the road to Lake George. Towards the west, a range of high hills encloses the view, and in the east, the Vermont Mountains make a fine appearance. Near the foot of French Mountain is a small bowse, on the east side of the road ; and near this place Gen. Dieskau's advanced guard struck the route from Glenn's Falls and Fort Edward to Fort William Henry. The valley through h:L*'n ■ -n "il J)0 i.xKi: r.Koiuif.. which we pass is narrow for some distance boyond i and after about half an hour's ri(l(\ a little circular pond is discovered on tho oast side, and close by thf5 road. It ig usually almost concealed with water plants. This was near the place of action between Col. Wil- liams and Gen. Dieskau. The latter had extended his troops across the path, and advanced his wings some dis- tance in front, the left wing occup}in^ the rising groinid on the west side of the road near this place. A small cleared spot may be noticed on the other side, a little beyond the pond, (in 1825 a hut stood upon it,) tliat is sa'd to have been the principal scene of action ; and a singular rock near by is pointed out by tradition as the mark of Col. Williams's grave. The little pond above mentioned was the place where most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the name of Bloody Pond to this day. It is probably much smaller than formerly. In 1825 the skeleton of a man was dug up from a depth of 1^ feet, near the pond, with a marble pipe, and some silver eyed buttons bearing the royal stamp. This pond is nearly circular, and is covered, in their sea- son, with the Pond Lily, (Nymphea Alba.) LAKE GEORGE. ^i % Lake George. Coming to the brow of a high hill, tho prospect opens, and the lake appears, enclosed by moun- tains, many of which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. The side of French Mountain is t ear at hand on the east, covered with thick trees to the summit; while the smooth- ness of the lake, the beauty of its nearest shore, with the neat white buildings of Caldwell, communicate to the scene a decree of beauty and seclusion, which can hardly be found in any other spot. Directly at the south end are the remains of Forts George and William Henry. Caldwell* The village of Caldwell is the place at which the visiter will stop to take a view of this charming lake, and from which he will make his excursions across its beautiful waters. The village stands at the south end of the lake, and on its shore, commanding a fine view of the neighbouring sheet of water, and the mountains by which it is almost enclosedv The inn to which strangers i'KV. t\i and potul is ,. It 13 ol. Wil- ded his jme did- f ground A small , a litlle ) tliat, is t; and a n aa the ce where name of 1 smaller was dug a marble al stamp. their sea- hill, the [by moun- [oop blue, the east, smooth- with the 10 the m hardly south end Henry. I place at Icharming ]ns across iouth end \f) view of itains by [strangers f .jHWl ^ Ik y m n 1 1 H *! r- i 'It,. .; ■»'\4! 'i iL^' » ;., S; itWf \. < t. • :J I ».■!»' rll V ■' rnsn taste view mort Statr light to tit' and i La 4. J Ine ^ markt the de by spri botton deer ir to Lak The la Tho place n ^ahbatl The la! ward. This bonnde( places and in great h( a charri weather new an< vation w able; ar is often and tho can dvv( The that of country, them io( slope de T.iK£ ntuuriK. Dl ri'sort ot'ciipicft a spot ppciilinrly fiutvl td ^rntify tlio oyo of taste, U3 it ovcM'looks tin* lake tor ••I'vcral rnilos, and the view is not interrupted by any neighbouring obstacle. A more (leliglufui place can hardly he found in the United States, for tlie temporary residence of one who takes do- light in scenery of this descrijition, and loves to recur to deeds long past, and to exploits great in themselves and important in their results even to the present day. Lake (ieorge i^ 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth 4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad. The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. The water is re- markable for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is undoubtedly supplied by sprmgs from below, as the water is coldest near the bottom. It contains trout, bass, and perch. There arc deer in the neighbouring forest. The outlet which Icada to Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapida. The lake never rises more than two feet. The three best points of view are at Fort George, a place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another at Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the head of the lake. The last view is taken southward, the other two north- ward. This beautiful basin with its pure crystal water, is bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in some places rising with a bold and haAty ascent from the water, and in others de^jcending with a graceful sweep from a great height to a broad and level margin, furnish it with a charming variety of scenery, which every change of weather, as well as every change of position, presents in new and countless beauties. The intermixture of culti- vation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely agree- able; and ihe undulating surface of the well-tilled farm is often contrasted with the deep shade of the native forest, aud the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where no vegetation can dwell. The situation ol the Hotel is delightful, surpassing that of almost every other to be found in this part of the country, and tho apartments are so arranged that half of them look out upon the lake. A green and handsome slope descends about 200 yards to the very margin. 9 1 H ^4 H ■ > '• m i. ■■<■,; i■^, ?"; f^ '* ;^ mm '!•• mm.:' iu:?; i' Of> TLA ISl.AAD. I There is the wharf, at which the steamboat receives and lands her passengers. The discharge of a gun makes fifie echoes among the mountains in a clear night The lake is here about three-quarters of a mile wide, and the range of munntains opposite, which are high and uninterrupted, is quite uncultivated with the exception of a few farms near the shore ; the other parts being co- vered with trees almost to the water. On the right is seen the south end of the lake, which is formed of low land for some distance back, Aucceedcd by French Mouniam in the rear On a little point, half covered with trees, and rising only about 25 feet above the water, is the site of Fort William Henry ; and about a mile towards the southeast from it, on a con- siderable elevation, are the ruins of Fort George. See page 93. Excursions on thb Lake Boats are kept at the wharf to convey passengers to any part of the neighbour- ing shores and islands. Fine perch, or black bass, (Perca Franklinia,) are caught in abundance almost everywhere j and trout, at the mouth of a small stream near the south end. Fishing rods and tackle may be obtained at the ho- tel ; and a variety of other fish are to be found. Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, and is famous for aboundmg in crystals of quartz, which are found in a loose rock by digging a little under the sur- face They are found, however, in equal numbers in several of the other islands ; and it is easy to purchase them. Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boats land is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there is an old hut standing which affords something of a shelter. Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been inhabited and cultivated Beside these, there are many other islands on the neighbouring parts of the lake ; and those who are fond of such excursions, would be highly pleased with devoting several days to visit them. 'I he finest cluster is in the Narrows, about 12 miles distant. West of the village is a remarkable conical eminence, called Rattlesnakes* CobblCf or Prospect Hill. This, as sent ing O the Os Ontari Gem ed to able rick, take was 9P the bo reachij Lyman cut off nadians which to man iSund I LAKE GEORGE. 93 esand makes wide, gh and :eption ing co- , which ;ceeded 3 point, 25 feet iry ; and a con- re. See it at the }ighbour- s, (/Vra ry where; I he south jit the ho- lake, and which are the 8ur- ndbers in purchase is another )oat3 land an old er. haa been are many ake; and be highly cm. '1 he distant. e:ninence, This, as well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation t?f bears and deer, and much infested with rattlesnakes. The view from the top is very fine. The French Approaches. The village of Caldwell is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege of Fort William Henry, the ground which it now occu- pies WAP crossed by the trenches and batteries with which Montcalm finally succeeded in forcing the capitulation of that little fortress. The place where he landed with his army is the little cove juKt behind the new stone building, a few steps north of the hotel. He erected his battery near the shore, and ran his first trench across the street into the fields in front of the hotel. The remains may siill be traced, as well as the marks of a &mall mortar battery, near the bars of a fence leading to a bmall house. Another line runs to the bank of the lake, on this side of the brook, where was also a battery ; and another boriiers the swamp to the right, and another turns southward along the high ground. Behind this, m a pine wood, are the graves of about 1000 French soldiers, who died in the fort. Battle op Lake George In 1755, the year after the commencement of the French War^ 3000 men were sent out from France to Quebec, for the purpose of tak- ing Oswego Fort. This was situated at the mouth of the Oswego or Onundago River, and on the shore of Lake Ontario General Johnson, (afterwards Sir William,) also march- ed to the south end of Lake George with a consider- able number of mea, joined by the famous Capt. Hend- rick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, intending to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. Gon. Dieskau was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, principally from the body of French troops mentioned at Quebec. On reaching South Buy, and learning the situation of Fort Lyman (now Fort Elvvard,) he wished to attack it and cutoff the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The Indians and Ca- nadians, however, were in dr:»ad of the cannon with which it was supposed to be defended, and he was obliged to march against Johnson. Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought John- iv!^ 94 BATTLK OF LAKE GEORGE. Jmlm m^H MM»'B Mflrolm '^Htfi i i son intclHgenco that Dieskau was coming; who s»;ntl200 men out in the morning, under the command of Col. Ephraim Williams. The enemy were in ambush at Rocky Brook, drawn up in a semicircle, into which the English entered before they knew it. A heavy fire from three sides first showed the position of their enemies. The En- glish stood their ground valiantly ; but Cols. Williams and Hendrick being both shot down, together with many others, they were obliged to begin their retreat,wliich was conduct- ed by Col. Whiting with the greatest coolness and success. The centre of the English army was posted on the hill where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the French were discovered by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted at the sight of his enemies, probably entertaining some mistaken idea of the strength of their position, and gave them time to recover from their panic. The ground on both sides of the English camp was marshy and covered with trees, and Dieskau sent his Indians out on the right flank and the Canadians on the left to surround them. Col. Pomeroy, however, soon put the former to flight with a few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops in front, and made them fire by platoons, with very little effect. Gen. Johnson (happily for his own troops,) was slightly wounded in the thigh, and had to walk back to his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He directed the defence for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre's artillery ; when the French turned upon the English right, which consisted of Ruggles's, Pomeroy's and Tittlecomb's regiments, and extended from the road to where Fort William Henry was afterwards built. Here they fought an hour, but the English and Indians charging them, they took to flight and many were killed. Gen. Dieskau him- self was found leaning against a stump wounded — a sol- dier approaching saw him put his hand to his waist, io take ouL his watch, which he intended to offer to him, and sup- posing he was drawing a pistol, shot him through the thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a blanket, and it is said deterred .Johnson from ordering a pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand. Gen. Lyman urged to follow up their victory ; but that was probably a sufficient reason for its being refused by a superior officer, who looked upon his great talents with jealot derive peculi Gen. made povert even t The 96 wo 1000- were a der of ino the by Capi York t French Gen. delayed roga am But the moR veller h tory of 1 shed h( The In 1757 in Amei Louisbi the Frci calm, h On the hian's the wesi and the Monroe relief fj Vvard largest out wit protect! He MASSACRE AT roRT WILLIAM HKRRY. 00 jealousy { rtml) in spite of the advjintagp the country had derived from his serviros, at a lime when they where peculiiirly valuable, did not even mention the name of Gpn. Lyman in his account of the battle! — Johnson was made a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few years in poverty and disappointment, and died without receiving even the notice of the British government. The F^nglish are said to have lost only 216 in killed and 96 woundt'd. Gen. Diesknu es<timated his own loss at 1000— I he English railed it much less. The principal were a Major General, nnd M. de St. Pierre the comman- der of the Indians. The French lost their baggage dur* ing the action, left two miles in their rear, it being attacked by Captains Folsom and McGinnies with about 100 New- York troops ; who then lay in wait for the retreating French, and killed great numbers of them. Gen* Johnson might have taken Crown Point; but he delayed it so long, that the French advanced to Ticonde- roga and there fortified themselves securely. But the Battle of Lake George is not the only nor the most sanguinary scene of former times which the tra- veller has to trace on this sadly interesting spot. The his- tory of the French war recites a melancholy tale of blood- shed here, only two years afterwards, in 1757. The Capture and Mansacre of Fort William Henry 4 In 1757, the Earl of Loudon, British Commander in Chief in America, made an unsuci-essful attempt by sea against Louisburg; and before his return to New-York in August, the French from Ticonderoga under the Marquis de Mont- calm, hud made three attacks on Fort William Henry. On the 1st of Aug. they set out again, and landed at French- man's Point. On the evening of the 2d, ihey crossed to the west side of Lake George, within two miles of the fort, and the next morning sent in their summons. Colonel Monroe defended himself resolutely for six days, hoping' relief from Col. Webb and his 6000 men at Fort Ed- ward ; but having waited in vain and burst ten of his largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender, and marched out with the honours of war and an assurance of being protected from the Indians in Montcalm's army. He had gone but a little wav, however, when the sa 9* ' «-^j U'i '■ H" id il i * U Ml M ATTACK ON KORT TlCOSDEtloGA! \a.giiA fell upon his troops and butchered about 1500 meti; women, and children. Gen. Webb s conduct was most inhuman. The pro- vincial troops were kepi under arms for one whole day after the news of the siege arrived at Fort Edward, and Sir William Jobnson was very desirous to march with them to its relief j but Webb ordered them back to their quarters, and sent a messenger to Col. Monroe advising him to surrender. Attack on Fort Ticondcroga. The south end of Lake Georg-e was the scene of a splendid embarkation on the 4th of July of the following yenr, (1758,) when 10,000 provincial troops, and 6 or 7000 regulars assembled at this place to proceed against Ticonderoga.* 10JJ5 boats were drawn up to the shore one clear delightful summer morning, and v/ere speedily filled with this powerful army, excepting only a small body left with the baggage. Suc- cess was confidently expected, and the appearance of the train was more like that of a triumphant return from war. The boats were decorated with gaudy streamers, and the oars moved to martial music. The traveller will follow their route in the steamboat^ for which see below* I'hey landed at the north endof the lake on the following morning, and were ordered to march on in four columns. The obstructions of the forest however soon broke their ranks ; when Lord Howe with his centre column, falling in with the enemy's advance guard, who were on their re- treat and bewildered, was attacked with a sudden war whoop and immediately killed. The provincials were accustomed to the woods, and drove back their enemies, killing «bout 300, and taking 148 prisoners, and all re- turned to the landing. In the morning, Col. Bradstreet took possession of ihe mill at the great falls on the river, and the army were soon brought to the French lines, which were thrown up across the isthmus and not finished. This intrenchment is still to be seen in tolerable preserva- * Lord Howe, who accompanied this expedition, was a young" nobloinan of amiable dis])osition and the most prepossessing man- ners, and was almost idolized by the army, as well as admired aud loved by the vouuiry. t LAltK GKoKofi. 07 tioti. It had two redoubts and a deop abattis, and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet high. The attack was vigorous, and the defence obstinate. The battle continued for four hours, during which llie English were repulsed three times. The Highland regiment distinguished itself, and suffered severely The English loss, in all, was 1944, principally regulars; the French very trifling, although they are said not to have imagined the defence possible* Their force is differently stated from 1200 to 6000. Not- withstanding his superiority of force, Al)ercrombie shame- fully ordered a retreat ; and thus terminated the opera- tions of the year. Voyage down Lake George^ Leaving Caldwell, the steamboat passes Tea island. Diamond, Long, and other Islands, particularly the Two Sisters ; and then the lake becomes wider, and the surface more uninterrupted, the course of the boat being directly towards Tongue Mouit" tain. That which partly shuts it in from this direction on the right, is Shelving Rock ; and Black Mountain shows its rounded summit beyond it, a little to the right. This last is supposed to be about 2200 feet high, and is considered the highest mountain on the lake. Twelve Mile Island is seen just ahead. It is of a singularly rounded form, covered with trees, with the utmost regularity. The Narrows. The lake is very much contracted where it passes between the mountains just mentioned^ and their surface is for several miles broken by innumer- able islands. These are of various sizes, but generally very small, and of little elevation. A few of them are named* as Green, Bass, Lonetree Islands. Some of them are covered with trees, others with shrubs J some show little lawns or spots of grass, heaps of bar- ren rocks, or gentle sloping shores; and mcst of them are ornamented with graceful pines, hemlocks, and other tall trees, collected in groups, or standing alone, and disposed with most charming variety. After passing the Narrows, the lake widens again, and the retrospect is, for several miles, through that passage, with Tongue Mountain on the west, and Black Mountain opposite, the Luzerne range appearing at a great distance between them. The mountains in view have generally 1 OS nOQERS* StADt. rounded summitft; but the ?* 3arc in many places hrdken by precipitous led^psv They ate inhabited by wolvet, deer, rattlesnakes, &c. Sabbath Day Point. — This is a low neck of land, stretching into the lake from the western shorei and con- taining the little vilhige of Hague. That on the opposite shore \* Putmnn. On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his nume- rous host, stopped for refreshment upon the morning ot' the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point the name by which it is now known. It is a charming spot and sua* ceptible of the greatest embellishment. Rogers' Rock and Anthony's Nose.— These are two mountains at whii-h the lake contracts itself again to pass between them. Anthony's Nose presents a precipice, on the eastern shore, as we enter the strait, and the firing of a gun produces a fine echo. Rogers^ Rock or Rogers^ Slide is a still more formidable one, on the other hand, a little further on» The last retrospect up the lake is still very fine, even Irom this point— Black Mountain being yet clearly to be seen. Rogers^ Slide has its name from Capt. Rogers, a parti- Ran officer who distinguished himself in the French war by his boldness, activity, and success. He commanded an expedition which left Ciown Point, in the year 1756 against the Canadian frontiers, and cut off the Indian vil- lage of St. Francis, afterwards returning with the severest hardships, by the way of Connecticut River. Tradition pays, that he was at another time closely pursued by a par- ty of Indians, and forced to retreat to the verge of this mountain. Finding no other way to escape, he descended half down by the ravine which opens towards the south, and then by a sudden turn came to the east side, where is is a precipice about 200 feet high, of smooth rock, and nearly perpendicular, down which he slipped upon his snow shoes to the lake, escaping upon the ice. This seems almost incredible; and other accounts have been given of it. Some say, that the Indians supposed he had fallen off the verge and perished, and others, that he threw off his pack that way to fiivour that belief. The wat^r is deep at the bottom, and fine trout are caught there with a lonj line. loterostiny mineriils are found hcrvr /:/ North )lVe»; land, I con- posite name* ling o\ me by i SU3- re two ^o pass ice, on [ring of logers^ [land, a is still jing yet a parti- ich war manded 1756 lan vil- everest adition y a par* of this cended south, vhere is ck, and pon his s seems ven of ^llen off off his is deep a long \x M i if: ■; \% h 'Mi' FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA. 99 The lake here assumes the apponrance of a narrow pond for three or four milos, and seems closed at both ends. The ground is still elevated on both sides, but hills have succeeded to mountains, and some of these are at length overtopped by Black Mountain, which, although at such a distance, at length makes its appearance again, and continues in sight. The lake at length diminishes to a very narrow stream, and the bottom becomes gradually covered with weeds. Lord Howe's Landing is iust behind an island of 3 acres, on the left hand at the entrance of the creek. Here is the spot were the unfortunate-expedition of Abercrombie effected their landing, and on the island they esl.ablished their hospital, on their way to the attack of Ticonderoga. The steamboat passes on some distance beyond this place, and lands her passengctS on the other side, where carriages are found in waiting to convey them to Ticon- deroga, three miles, over a rough road. The boat waits 3i hours for the return of the coaches. Abercrombie's army passed for some part of the way along the route we travel. Passing the Upper Falls, vhich are the highest, he forded the creek above the second. At the falls near the bridge which we pass, just above the saw mills, was a stone block house ; and there was a re- doubt on the north side of the stream near the bridge, where, as in several other places, there was some fighting to carry the French out-posts. At the Upper Falls are several valuable saw mills and forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque. The Fortress of Ticonderoga. — This famous old fortress, or rather its remains, are distinctly seen from Lake Champlain, though from the direction by which we approach it they are not discovered until we approach near them. An elevated piece of land, gently sloping to- wards the south, and ending abruptly over a bend of the lake, appears partially covered with trees, and crowned near its extremity with a cluster of broken walls and chim- neys. There is a meadow on the eastern side, running to the base of the ridge, and across this is a foot path from the ferry to the fort, by the nearest way ; a carriage road also leads from the ferry to the ridge, and thence down to the same place. The Old French Lin'Es, where General Abercrombie i> * 100 RUINS or THE PORT. was dofpatod in 1758, are the only part of the fortification which was ev««r the scene of a hattle. They commenced on tlie east sitlo, at a haltery of heavy cannon on the i«hore, tthoiit a (inaner of a mile south of the ferry. The rennains of the breast work can yet be seen. The lines wrre drawn in a zig-zag; first stretching off to the right, along the side of mar^ihy ground, to a cluster of bushes, where was a bat- tery ; atid then to the left to the verge of a wood, where was another. Their course may be distinctly traced in this manner, across the ridge of land at its highest elevation, over to the brow of a steep bank looking towards the outlet of Lake George. The woods which now so much interrupt the Bight, have grown since the evacuation of the fortress, after the revolutionary war. There is a fine spring of water near the western part of the French lines, where a bloody engagement occurred between two hostile parties during the battle. Bodies of men have been dug up hereabouts within a few years, and shot were formerly very freqnen:ly found in old timber Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this place. It was occupied by Gen. Burg«>yne's British line, which formed the right wing on his approach to Ticon- deroga, on the 2(1 of June, 1777 ; and on the following morning, while they were approacliing through the woods unsuspicious and undiscovered, one of their soldiers was observed and fired upon from a salient angle of tiie lines. This alarmed the British, who fired; and the Americans were so muc^h excited that they returned three volleys, without orders from their officers. Strange as it may seem not a man was killed on either side, and the enemy retired without attempting any thing further there, for they succeeded in capluri.ig the fortress in a few days, by gaining the top of Mount Defiance with their cannon. In proceeding from the French lines south towards the fortress, by a gentle descent, before arriving there, at the distance of about 120 yards, you pass an old intrench- ment ; and about 150 yards further bring you to the edge of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where there was a row of palisadoes. Five steps more bring you to the walled Bide of the ditch, which is still eight feet deep in some places, and therefore impassable except where it has been partly filled up. Its breadth is g^enerally about 8 or 9 nans. VOIURfcSS OF rXCONDLKO(;A. 101 yards, and the wall of the fortress ca the othei side in some yilaces 20 or 25 feet high The fortress is of nn angular form, and emhraces a largo tract >f ground, being divided into parts by deep ditches, which were defended by cannon and musketry, and added very much to the security of th<! place. The communi- cation between the.«e difliTei.t parts was kept up by stone staircases, placed in convenient positions of the angles, all so calculated as to moke the descent into the d ches, and the ascent, circuitous and intricate; and open to \ho cannon and small arms. A glance at some of those which remain will show the plan. The walls were originally much higher than at present, being raised by superstruc- tures of logs filled m with earth. The liarracks formed an oblong, and the walls still re- main of all except those on the eastern side ; their form is plainly distinguishable. The parade, is about 52^ yards long, and 3 in breadth. The barracks, &c. the walls of which remain on the nvjrth, south, and west sides, aie built of the rough blue limestone of which the neighbouring rocks are formed, two stories high ; and these with the chimneys, several of which are standing, are the principal objects seen from a distance. The entrances to this court yard or parade, are between the buildings, and quite nar- row. By the southern entrance, Ethan Allen entered with his 83 raw soldiers when he surprised the fortress on the 18th May, 1775 ; and on reaching the court yard and calling on the commander to surrender, the British officer, Capt. Depiace, made his appearance at a window and submitted, delivering up 3 officers and 44 rank and file. In consequence of this coupde main, this important place was in the hands of the Americans until the arrival of Bur- goyne in 1777. The troops in the garrison had become loose disciplina- rians. A body of men had been dispatched from Con- necticut to surprise the place, and approached upon the opposite shore, but were unprovided with a conveyance to the intended point of theii enterprise. A countryman, who had been in the habit of frequently visiting the fort, was made acquainted with their views, crossed the lake by day light, went carefully into the fort, and observed in what part of the parado ground the arms were stacked. i« YH ,.lr\. uvz Mil. PKLL 3 (.ARDKX. Being almost domiciliiitcd hy tho IVrtjucncy of hi:* previous visits, lio loun^^rcl I'wiiy hi;i lime iintil ni^'ht aporoachnd. Ho th(?n possessed himself of a lar;^c bateau owned by tho garrison, and rerr«t-<sed thi^ lake. Allen having joined the han(i embarked, effeeted a landing about one mile north of the fort, and proceeded arross tho meadows, shrouded by thct night, and made good their daring enter* prise, by threatening the sentry and taking immediate possession of the fire arms, as pointed out by their avant courier. Tho battlements of Ticonderoga first bore the flag of independence This circumstance should of itself render this ruin, go fine in other associations, interesting to the traveller. At each corner was a bastion or a demi-bastion ; and under that in the northeastern one is a subterranean magazine. The cellars south of this, which belonged to the demolished buildings, and are aluj^^st fil'ed up, have a room or two with fire places still distirguishable. The Grenadiers' Battery, is situated on a rocky point towards the east from the main fortress. They were connected by a covered way, the traces of which are distinctly visible. Still in advance of the Grenadiers' Batter}* is a small work of earth, which might have contained 5 or 6 guns; while in front of it, and on the extreme point, two or three more guns appear to have been placed between- the rocks, to fire down upon the water, about 40 feet below. The shrubs and trees which have grown up since the evacua- tion of the place, with the ivy which hangs everywhere among the rocks, give the spot a very romantic appear- ance ; and if the visiters have furnished themselves with refreshments, they will not find a more delightful place to regale themselves. A little further east, and under the bank, is an old stone house, formerly a store belonging to the fort. Near tliisis the Hotel, See p. 88 & 99. On a spot formerly occupied as the King^s Garden, Mr. Pell has a fine garden, abounding in the choicest fruits imported from Europe, and transported from the celebrat- ed nurseries of Long Island. Mr. Pell has been a very successful propagator of the locust tree, {Robinia Pseudo «caiia of Linnueus,) thousands of which arc growing on ' ¥ rOHTRf.3S or TICONDEKOOA. lOJ 5V10U3 ichod. by tho joined ? mile idows, enter- lediato • avant flaj^ of vender to the m ; and rraneau nged to , have a a rocky , They rhich are \Garden, ;esttriiit3 I celebrat- ?n a very Pseudo [owing ou theso grounds in the most flourishing manner: here is aUo the Magnolia Grandijlora, never hetore cuhivaied in so high a latitude; the hor^e chesnut {Castanea Equinua,) and upwards of 70 varieties of the poosc^herry from Eu- rope. Hero also wo find the beautiful Cafalpa, and the Liriodendron tulipcfcra. If it is the intention of the traveller to cross the lake, to the neighbouring Vermont shore, where are still some slight remams of Burgoyne'g intrcnchments, ho will be much pleased with a walk across the meadows to the upper ferry, a distance of about 3-4 of a mile. This will remind him, if he has been abroad, of the pnik scenery of England; and the view of the ruins from those meadows is strikingly beautiful : the clumps of trees, tho circuitous route, the view of I^ake Champluin on the right, and an amphitheatre of wood on the left, make this a most beautiful and interesting route. Between I'le Grenadiers' Battery and the fortress, tho shore retains traces of many little terraces, breastworks, and buildings, such as were probably workshops, barracks, s tores, &c. From the more elevated parts of the works the visiter enjoys, in fine weather, a delightful view of the lake and the surrounding country. On the right is the outlet of Lake George, winding through a dark and narrow valley, and spreading out to embrace an island of the brightest verdure; while more immediately under the eye lies a fertile little meadow, interspersed with a few trees and clusters of shrubs, and after the hay has been made and stacked, sometimes enlivened by a herd of horses or cattle. Mount Defiance, about 800 feet high, on the summit of which Gen. Burgoyne's troops showed themselves on the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of heavy cannon, which they had drawn up along the ridge by night, and planted in that commanding position, whence they could count the men in the fort. The distance to the sum- mit in a straight line is about a mile, so that the defence of Ticonderoga would have been impossible ; and on tho firing of a few shots by the British upon a vessel in the lake, which proved the range of their guns, the Americans made preparations to evacuate the place, and efllbcted their retreat to the opposite shore during the night. 10 1'* w I** '•m iiiXmm] mkm ' *.' " ' !♦■■ 4' I >.^ /i i m Y.aKK CHAMI'LAK^. Mount Independence is a hill of comparatively sm.-iil ^elevation cast of Mount Detiam-e, and rieparatcd fi'om it ()y the lake, which has here reduced its size to that of a «mall river. On a bank, just above the water, are the re- mains of a zig-zag battery for about 40 or 50 guns, running across a little corn field behind a liouse, and making five or six angles. The Horse Shoe Battery is traceable on an elevation about a quarter of a miie in the renr. A bridge once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, tlie buttresses of whicli arc retnuining, to the great annoyatxe of the navigat(jrs of the lake ; the steamboat passes to the south of them. On the west shore, (near the stone store house,) Arnold, when pursued by the British, caused his •flotilla to he run on shore. These hn'.ks remain almost as f!ound as when first stranded. A forty-two pounder is said to have ranged from the Horse Shoe over this channel, (now marked by a buoy,) and the fortress. After the Revolutionary war. about 500 cannon wero lying about the fortress, lines, &c. many of them as left by the English, with their trunnions knocked oflT. A twen- ty-four pounder was taken to the forge at Fair-Haven, some few years ago, and discharged by the heat, after lying loaded for above twenty years, and r considerable time at the bottom of the lake. The mountainous region on the west side of the lake abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are killed every season. The E*assage from Ticonderoga down Lake Champlain is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the way to Canada, with fine natural scenes. Five Mile Point. The lake is narrow at this place, which is remarkable as thr* landing place of Gen. Bur- goyne's expedition, as mentioned on p. 100. Mountains appear in the west and northwest, with occasional iiiter- vals all the way up to Crown Point; while in the north, is a lofty and imposing range, with two or three peaks al- most bald from the height of their elevation. Summits multiply as ve proceed, and distant mountains urise also in the northeast ; while Mount Defiance and other emi- nences towards the south bound the view in that direc- tion. There are scattering farms and houses on both shores. ^ ¥. i ■'■«*? Mi tid^ i*» !X-; I- i< w-"!!.*; &. "1.. . •' -in ■r r. w Qv ^^'-^ KOUTE TO CA.S'ADA. 105 The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments- of blue limestone rock with organic remains. The immediate &hore^ are generally low all the way tc Crown Point, where the lake suddenly tarn.s to the west at a right angk?^ and at the distance of a mile as suddenly to the north again. A low stretch of land covered with a young forest on t\ie left, conceals the approach to this an- cient fortress, v'hich, for position, as wv.W as appearance and history, may be called the twin sister of Ticonderoga.. Chimn ey Point, where the steamboat often receives and lands passengers, is on the north side of the lake, with w large public house in a pleasant situation ; and here is the- place to stop if ihe traveller intends tf> visit Crown Point, which is opposite, across a ferry 3-4 of a mile. The Fortress op Crown Point, — There are several old works thrown up along the shore, with little bays be- tween them. The easternmost one is called the Grena- diers' Battery, the middle one is the original old French fort of 1731, and now encloses a garden ; and that further west is an outvvoi*k to a bastion of the fortress. The ground on which the old fortifications stand, is owned by Major.!. Churchill of the U.S. Army. The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile back fron» the shore, and appear^ much like Ticonderoga from a distance, showing the walls and chimneys of the old barracks, and walls of earth surrcunding them. In regard to its plan, however, it is materially different. The for- tress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the form of a pentagon, with bastions a: the angles,, and a strong re- doubt at the distance of 250 or 300 yards in advance of each of them. The fortrer^s is surrounded by a ditch, walled in with stone, except where it has been blasted into the solid rock of blue limestone, (as is the case in many parts, from live to twenty-five feet,) and even inta quartz rock which underlays it. Univalve shells are found in the limestone rock, frequently four inches in di- ameter. The walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and there is a convenient path running entirely round upon the top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and south sides. Although much shaded by tall sumacs, some fine- views are enjoyed in making the circuit, which is not far .short of half a mile. Y 1 I*.' ■ .1. 'I tr-; 'jr f. - -I ■it.. My^-' ' ■ 106 FORTRESS OF CROWN POINT. Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks ; and close by, the remains of a covered or a subterraneous way to the liike shore. On entering the fortress, the stranger finds h'mselfina level, spacious area, bounded on the left, and in front, by long ruinous buildings of stone two stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the right. This parade is about .500 feet in length. The place was sur- prised by Col. Warner in 1775. The view from tliP walls towards the north is very fine : looking down the lake, wb h widens at the distance of two or three miles, you have Chimney Point on the right, and two other points projecting beyond the distant peak, called CamcVs Hump. A range of mountains on the west- ern shore, beginning at the distance of 18 miles, including Bald Peak, gradually approach till they form a near and bold boundary to the lake on the left, scattered with cleared farms and houses, and then stretching away to the south, terminate in the mountain behind. This elevation, although it seems almost as well calculated to command Crown Point as Mount Defiance does Ticonderoga, is not less than four miles distant. Every thing a!)out this old fortress bears the marks of ruin. Two magazines were blown up ; the timbers in the south barracks are burnt black ; a portion of the shingled roof v/hich remains serves to cover a little hay mow and the nests of robins ; while some of the entrances and other parts are fenced up for a sheep fold. The ground around it is much covered with fragments of blasted rocks, and particularly at the south, with the ruins of old buildings The trees which are seen, have grown since the evacuation of the place : and on one of the angles is an inscription of the date of the fortress, 1756, when it was constructed on a greatly enlarged plan, by Gen. Am- herst, at an expense of two millions of pounds sterling. In 1777, the British had a fleet on Lake Champlain, composed of the following vessels : ship Inflexible, Capt. Pringle, carrying 18 twelve pounders ; two schooners, one with 14 the other with 12 six pounders ; a flat-bottomed radeau with six twenty-fours and six twelves ; and 20 small craft, each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four pounders, and several long boats, beside boats for baggage, >i)tores, vfcc. ROUTi: TO CANADA. 107 The Americans had only two brigs, one corvette, odp sloop, three galleys, and eight gondolas, the largpst vessel carrying only 12 six and four poimdors. These were under the command of Arnold, who drew them up betweei> the island of Valincourt and the western shore, where they were attacked. They fought four hours, and the British at last retreated ; but while making his way to- wards Crown Point, Arnold was overtaken, and nearly all the squadron (led up the lake, passing this place which was evacuated. Arnold remained fighting as long as pos- sible, and did not leave his vessel until she had taken fire. Proceeding down the lake, the breadth of it soon in- cretises, and at the two islands on the right it is about li- miles acros*. A little further is Fut-in-Bay, on the eastern shore, with an island of the same name. Sloop Island, 17 miles from Burlington, is- low in the middle, and contains several trees, which look not unlike masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a mist}' day, in the Revolutionary or French war, and fired upon by a vessel, whence its name. At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadth of several m^les, and a new scene is presented to view. On. the west side is a rounded island covered with pine trees, like much of the shore previously seen, and separated from the main land only by a narrow rent of about fifteen feet. Apparently ju?it v.'iihin this aperture is a rude arch of rock, like the remains of an ancient bridi^e. B TRLiNGTO'N, 75 miles from Whitehall, This is the- largest town on Lake Champlain, and is situnt.ed in aj comn anding as well as a delightful position. The lake suddenly widens as you approach it from the south, and m fine semicircular bay puts up to it from il^ east, sur^ rounded by a crescent of high ground, under the shelter of which the town is situated. The University of Vermont is 330 feet above the lake. The view from the top »)f the^ hills is truly admirable ; embracing in the foreground the elegant gardens of some of the wealthier inhabitants, the College, Vv-ith the streets of Burlington below, the curv- ing form of the bay, the whole breadth of the lake, her© tea miles across, and a noble ehaiu of di.slant blue m«uu- 10« <M M> •i;'^ // 103 PLAlTsBURGtt. H tains on the opposite side. The road to Windsor by the Gulf is very good and interesting-. A steamboat goes to Phittsburgh and returns daily. Port Kent, 10 miles, is a small village on the western shore, sixteen miles from T3urlineton. It serves as a port to the iron works established a little back in the country, where there is a vast quantity of ore. The Walled Rocks , and the Falls of the An Sable > These are natural curiosities of a superior kind, although, from their secluded situation, they have not yet attracted general attention. To visit them, the traveller may land at Port Kent, take a carriage in waiting to Keeseville, 4 m. a village where an active business is carried on in lumber anu iron. There are saw-mills at a fall in the river. A guide will be desirable. First, 1| m. northeast, passing through a fine wood near the road, you reach the brow of a rock, and have a view of Watson's Falls. This is a charming object. A letter to the editor of the '• Northern Traveller" describes it as offering a " striking resemblance to a magnificent chandelier of three tiers, 60 feet high, the drops of water sparkling like diamonds in inotion, and prismatic colours, like those of the rainbow, floating over the whole." You next pass a cluster of iron works, called Bitming- ham, amidst a series of waterfalls ; and then, crossing the stream, and proceeding some distance through the woods, alight and walk to the Walled Rocks. These are preci- pices of stratified rocks, about 100 feet high, overhanging the stream, two of which are so uniform, and separated so precisely by deep and narrow channels cut down almost to the water's level, that they seem ready to fall every in- stant. When viewed directly endwise, they appear like tail chimneys, only a few feel in width ; while, at the same lime, they lean very perceptibly beyond their narrow bases. Between them is a staircase, built by some of tha lovers of nature in the neighbouring village of Keeseville, for the accommodation of visiters. By this you may de- scend to the bottom : and there the scene is highly impres- sive and peculiar, while the spectator sees with dread, that the point of view on the summit is on a thin project- ing shelf of rock. Plattsburgh, eight miles. This is a town of consi* l*oi ' the ;9 to stern port intry, tablet ough, •acted land eville, on in in the ihraat, vM the Falls. of the triking ers, 60 ond3 in linbow, irming* ing the woods, preci- langing •ated so [most to very in* lear like lie same narrow |e of tiiG iseville, |may de- impres- dread, Iproject- If consi* I: n :vv J-- . 5;.' '■■ • i f^kM '*'. * * 'Z 91*1 wmm I I. ar vvj ri hot nnc Hot rou sum 127; P. (lurii T, static Cana read^ tion c river a nurr nough squad with tal Isl fought vesse minute Capt. hull, a battle part of McI Head sist3 of lature Cha, country country appear? UOtTE TO CANADA. ion ^[icrable importance, situated on the banks of the Saranac, find just behind the high and steep bank of the lake, on which is a line of forts erected for the defence of the place. The town commands a fine view. The St. Lawrence and Cluimplain railroad route has been sin-veyed from Plattsburgh to Ogdonsburgh, 120 m. and the oxpenst? estimated at about one and a half mil- lions, crossing Chateaugay river cast of Malone. Another route has been sin*veyod up the north bank of Au Sable river across the highlands and down Racket river. The summit of the former near the Chateaugay is 1733 feet tibove tide ; and that of the latter, on the highlands, only 1277. The lake here is 87, and at Whitehall 93. Plattsburgh was the scene of a land and naval battle during the late war with Great Britain. The Battle of Plnttshurgh, When Gen. Macomb vv^as stationed at Plattsburgh, Sir George Prevost came from. Canada with an army, and occupying the village, stood ready to attack the American troops, who were in posi- tion on the elevated ground, between the east bank of the river Saranac and the precipitous shore of the lake, where a number of forts, &jc. are still to be seen. Com. McDo* nough was at that time on the lake with the American squadron ; and hearing of the approach of Capt. Downie with the British ships, extended his line between Hospi- tal Island and Cumberland Head, where he received and fought the enemy with such success as to capture all his vessels. The action continued two hours and twenty minutes, and was performed in full sight of the armies. Capt. Downie's ship, the Confiance, had 105 shot in her hull, and the Saratoga 59, and was twice on fire. This battle caused the retreat of Prevost, and relieved that part of the country from being overrun. McDonough's Farm lies on that part of Cumberland Head which is opposite the scene of his battle, and con- sists of 200 acres. It was presented tohmi by the Legis- lature of Vermont, in gratitude for his victory. Chazy, 15 miles, — Rouse's Point, 12 miles. The country hereabouts is very uninteresting: for the level country has begun which extends far into Canada. The appearance of the banks is quite uniform ; they being low, V P^A:' * v^■^ 4^: t 4^1 ..■fifiikii ■ m 110 ST. JOHN '3. V7V 1<I and in mr^ny places almost overflown by the waters of tho lake. There i» a io' -^ wall and battery on the south side, with angles. The cl jHcI is on the east siiie, and very nar- row, faced for a considerable distance by another battery. Sentries are ported in different places. The shipyard succeeiis, and the officers' quarters, generally neat, one< story bu'ldings, with little gardens tastefi lly laid out. The expedition against Canada in 1776, consisted of two divisions; one of 3000 Ncw-Er.gland and New-York soldiers, under Generals Schuyler and Montgoinery, pro- ceeded down Lake Champlain in rafts, from Ticondcroga and Crown Point, and took position at I&le aux Noix. Tlie other, which was planned and despatched subse- quently, consisted of a large body, under General Arnold, and proceeded through the wildemess, in the district of Maine, for Quebec. The forrner dlvi^ion, after a liitie ■tlelay, proceeded to St. John's. They afterwards formed '^t thi^ place a chevaux de frieze in the river. Beyoud, the shores continue low and uninteresting, •with hurnerous cabins of aetthirs near the water, the forest «ncroachincr to within a short distance behind. St, John's, {Lower Canada^) 10 miles. Here the «4eamboat stops, at the head of the rapids, atvd at the end of navigation. A railroad leads to iV.on- treal : (3 6 miles by land, and 9 by water on the St. Law- rence, in a steamboat. ) The village presents nothing worthy of particular atten- tion, except as the scene of some military deeds, con- nected with the expedition of Gen. Montgomery against this country. Wlulc the continental troops were sta- tioned at isle aux Noix in 1775, Generals Montgomery and Schuyler invested the fort, which conlaitied a garri- son of 5 or 600 troops, beside 200 Canadians, and was commanded by Major Pre.ston. The siege lasted b weeks, and they diil no^ capitulate till some time after the ;«ur- render of Chambly, nor till the Americans had brought their trenches to the walls of the fort. They then ob- L-i f,r.ti>ni^'/ifn /Of) /. . U'lulie •• ^/ ,..',. I I./3 m ^H^I^B^^f ^^^^^^Hj BirSI ns i <4i^ 1- ^^1-. same floor, facing! of a si Fence might over t[ by a SI except Roehel The I foreiirr languaj have nl ROUTE TO CANADA. Ill tained possession of 17 brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, with halls, bombs, &.c. <Stc. The Canadian juioney is different from that of the United States; but m consequence of the continual in- tercourse, the latter passes currently. Nino sous or cop- pers, (which are of various and sometimes curious stamps,) equal six cents. Two sous nearly Id. and 20 cents a shilling. A pleasant road from St. John's to Montreal, is by '^'hambly and Longueil, (for which, see Index.) The River Kiciielieu sometimes takes the names of St. John's and Sorel, in consequence of its running by those towns. Several mountains are in sight, as Bclceil, Boucherville, &c. The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a small scale, of the numerous rapids in the St. Lawrence, which will hereafter excite the interest, if not the apprehension of the stranger. The bed of the Richelieu has a rapid descent in several places, where it comes immediately under observation, and becomes so shallow as to be iu\s- sable for the flattest boats only during the floods. In the summer it is generally only a few inches deep, ard the surface broken by numerous stones of all sizes, and here and there by little waterfalls near the shore. At the same time the banks are low and flat ; the houses of one floor, whitewashed, and built at nearly equal distances, facing the river; and, in short, the general character of a scene on the St. Lawrence, may be imagined from a view here, by making allowance for superior size and fertility. It has been proposed to make a canal to the St. Law- rence ; but it is said that the channel of the St. John's might be improved by stonewalls to confine the water over these rapids. The Chambly rapids might be passed by a short canal; and the only remaining obstructions except those at the mouth are at St. Theresa and Mille Roches. The inhabitants, out of the towns, have the aspect of foreigners, m dress, countenance, manners, customs, and language. Their fashions are antique, and many of them have not been changed for ages : the men wear the Ca- ^^ -1 • ■ ; •I J 12 RAILROAD TO LAPRAIRIE. iM^nm nadian jaclvet, cap, or hat, red sash, and moccasin of rough leather The women work in the held, and all of them fpeak French, generally without knowing a word of any other language. The farms will be observed, laid out in strips of 1 or 200 acr<;s, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or evcin 3 miles in length ; and the system of farming is ex- tremely bad, as will bo discovered at once, by the acres that are consigned to the useless and destructive litile Canada thisile. There is no such thing known here as the doctrine of a rotation of crops, and land is recovered to fertility by lying fallow, except that lately the use of manure has begun to be resorted to in a small degree. The horses are of a small breed, well known in the north- ern stales, by the name of the country. They are small and slow, but powerful and hardy. Many of them are driven across the line, and large horses introduced iriio the towns in return. The value of a common Canadian horse is about $40 ; and of a ,'^ood one, $00. There is very little to be -en on this road to interest the travell'^r. Ti'e landscape id unvarying; the inhabit- ants as well as tl soil are poor, and there is nothing that deserves even the name of a village. We pass a house now and then, dignified by a tall pole or mast raised in front of it, which is a singular mark of distinct on con- ceded to officers of militia, and usually adopted by those ot' ihe lowest grades The people have healthy countenances, inclining to round faces and thick lips. Many of them show the up- per front teeth vvhen silent; and their aspect denotes a want of education, which is the real cause of the hack- ward condition of society in Canada. They are all Pa- pists ; and the churches seen here and there upon the road, are devoted to the service of the Komish church. One of the most singular traits in tho domestic ar- rani^ements of the Canadians, is building tlie oven not only out of doors, like the Dutch, but directly over the pig sty. The mountain from which the city of Montreal derived its name, and which rises imtncdiately behind it, may be discovored at a grta' di^ilance; and the hou^e of Mr. McT distal So tensi^ then I La boats the C; speak and nc ceptiuj curiou tries ; and Qi nearly a high care of The The cit its thic and ov( metal, chard s ; tified is and sev seen the shores which, of tires( forinity voyage The ly near but tho lively p( facility ing, anc ever, foi borne ra of the the rock lloLTE TU CANADA. 113 sin of all of ord of 1, laid ,2, or is ex- I acres e litile lere as overed use of iegree. ! norlh- e small lem are ;ed irilo anadiau interest inhabit- ing liiat a house raised in on con- [)y those ning to the up- euoies a le back- e all Pa- )pon the lurch, eslic ar- )veri not over the I derived may be e of Mr. McTavish may be perceived, like a white spot, a little distance up its side. Some timo before reaching the river, you pass an ex- tensive common, lying on the south side of the road, and then the town of Laprairib. This is a large town, from which steam- boats cross to Montreal, 9 miles. The place is built after the Canadian fa.«»hion ; and very few of the inhabitants speak English. The streets are narrow, the houses low, and nothing is to be seen worthy of particular notice, ex- cepting a nunnery and the church, both which may seem curious to persons who are not familiar with Popish coun- tries ; though of inferior interest to those of Montreal and Quebec. The nuns possess a large tract of land, nearly in the centre of the town, which !s surrounded by a high wall : and they devote some of their time to the care of the sick, and the education of girls. The view of Montreal from the wharf is uninterrupted. The city is distinguished at the distance of 9 miles, by its thick mass of buildmjrs, roofed with sheets of tin, and overtopped by chjrch spires, shining with the same metal. Behind it rises a fine mountain, spotted with or- chards ; on the right, down the St. Lawrence, is the for- tified island of St. Helen; and on the left. Nuns' Island, and several smaller ones at a distance, through which are seen the sheets of white foam caused by the rapids The shores are low and perfectly flat m every direction ; which, with the wide expanse of water, gives an aspect of tiresome monotony and extension to the scene. Uni- formity will be found characteristic of almost the whole voyage to Quebec. The current of the river is extremely rapid, particular- ly near those parts where the surface is broken by rocks ; but the steamboats are supplied with engines compara- tively powerful, and arc able to eflfect the passage with facility and in safety. An hour is generally spent in go- ing, and from 1^ to 3 in returning. It is impossible, how- ever, for any boat to go through the current without being borne rapidly down in some places ; ar.d there is a part of the river near the middle, where the wiiter is clear, and the rocks are easily seen on the bottom, as the boatsglide 4 T*.^>'^f^. ■f\i ''•■'. .' [ill'-. „ . 114 8T. JOHNS. i i! ; r t^ ii on above them. In returning, the boats sometimes pass between two rocks, near the rapids, that on the east be- ing under water. Here the river is much agitated, and sometimes throws the water on deck, but without any danger. A large tinned roof on the left, with a small steeple, belongs to the convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is the RecoUet Church; then the French Parish Church, near which is seen the Great Cathedral. The English Episcopal church has a tall pyramidal spire ; and that •which rises farther to the right, and near the shore, is the church of Bon-secours From some places may be seen the lop of Nelson's monument, with several other remark- able objects, particularly the barracks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old city wall. MOxNTREAL. The landing place is unpleasant, and the stranger may be struck with the narrowness of the streets, the lowness, and heavy aspect of the houses, which are of stone or plas- tered to resemble it: but all '^iis is in conformity with the iashion of the country ; and Montreal contains some fine buildings, and other objects worthy of notice, together v/ith a vicinity which in the warm season of the year is truly agreeable. Those who remain but a short time in this city, may easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects of cu- riosity ; and are recommended to take a walk through the two principal streets, and to notice the following build- ings and })laces. At the north end of St. Taul's-street are the barracks. Just above the Masonic Hall, is the French Church of Bon-seoours, which, like the other Canadian religious buildings generally, is formed much on the plan of those in Franof. The roofs are, however, generally covered with tin. This is near the northern limit of Montreal; beyond which begins the Quebec suburb. Masonic Hall, on the the eastern side of the street. Theatre, adjoining the Masonic Hall. Market Place and Nelson^s Monument. Then fol- lows a double row of shops. On the east side are seve* ral, wl These, ries, if The long st( from J wings : One of chapel, apart mc make a There i and tha square i This worthy institutii influence ed by t on a m( supporte ed by a foster ig have bee grading ing the The in North Place 6 partly c( 13th, 14 style the of ornan as that o It is wide, ers, eac at each towers, five pub and four 10,000 MONTREAL 115 ral, which show articles of Indian manufacture for sale. These, however, had better be bought at the nunne- ries, if it is intended to visit them. The Hotel Dieu, or Convent of Black Nuns, is a long stone building, on the west side of St. Paul's-street from John Baptist to St. Joseph' s-street. It has three wings: one on St. Joseph's-street being the hospital. One of the doors on St. Paul's-street leads into the public chapel, and another into the nunnery, that is, the few apartments which are accessible to visiters. The nuns make a vow on taking the veil, never to leave the walls. There is a large garden in the rear. This convent, and that of the congregational nuns occupy the whole square extending to Notre Dame-street. This building, and others like it in Canada, are un- worthy of a traveller's attention, except as specimens of institutions which have exerted a powerful and unfriendly influence on all nations who have tolerated them. Found- ed by the superstition which they perpetuate, framed on a model borrowed from the heathenism of Egypt, supported by fanaticism, tolerated by ignorance, govern- ed by a power as distant as Rome, and used by it to foster ignorance, and to sustain its authority, convents have been, and probably always will be, engines for de- grading the mind, corrupting the manners, and enslav- ing the people. The New Cathedral is probably the largest church in North America, except Mexico. This edifice is on the Place dj'Armes. It was commenced in 1825, and is partly copied from some of the European models of the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. It is of the plainest style that can bear the name of Gothic : an exuberance of ornament being inconsistent with a climate so severe as that of Canada. It is 255 feet long from west to east, and 134 feet wide. It was designed to have six quadrangular tow- ers, each 200 feet high: three on each flank, and two at each end. The curtain, or space between the front towers, is 73 feet by 119, and has parapets. There are five public entrances and three private to the first floor, and four to the galleries. The building can contain 10,000 persons, which number may rssemble and dis- n I .4 I. ♦ I- V"> -' ■ 116- THE COLLEGZ. If tl' t *^ I ' perse in a few minutes. The eastern vrindow over tBcr high altar is 32 by 64 feet, and is to be divided by shafts and mullions for stained glass. The ceiling is 80 feet high, groined and partly supported by a double range of grouped columns, intersected by rails. There are seven altars for the nuns. The floor rises gradually from the entrance to the high altar. The house is to be warmed by heated air from stoves under the floor. The exterior is faced with hewn stone from the mountain. Gray Nitns^ Convent, a large stone building, about 410 feet in length, is in the south eastern part of the city. These nuns have a large number of orphans under their charge, and are not forbidden to go out, so that they may be seen in the streets dressed in gray hooded cloaks. The Seminary (La Seminaire) is an antique build- ing, and contains a library of about 6,00Q volumes. The College is a large building of stone, three sto- ries high, erected in 1819 out of the funds of the Semi- nary. It has a front of about 150 feet, with wings projecting in front and rear, which make the whole length about 220 feet. It has a spacious yard on the south side, for a play ground, succeeded by a fine gar- den. In order to guard against fire, large iron doors are hung in the passages, in such a manner that by shutting them the vhole building may be divided into three parts, each fire proof. It contains aA)out 300 students, who are divided into eight classes, to each of which is devoted a year, with the exception of the two last, which occupy but six months apiece, so that the whole course of instruction is finished in seven years. Many of the pupils, however, leave the institution before completing the course. The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of the building is divided into recitation rooms, and bed rooms, the former of which are hung with maps and pictures of saints, and the latter supplied with crosses and fonts. The price of instruction is about eighty dollars per yv'^ar, and some of the pupils have allowances made them^ paicicularly those designed for the church, who assist ir^ instruction by day, and- study by night. There is a prepay- MONTREAL. 117 »tory school connected with the college. One of the in- •structers always oversees the boys in their recreations. Returning to the square, and entering another princi- pal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass nume- rous respectable and some elegant dwellings, leaving the Parish Church and the new Cathedral on the east. The Wesleyan Chapel, the American Congregational, and the English Episcopal Churches are in this part of the town. The Parade, a handsome piece of ground, with a walk, where the troops are drilled every morning, gene- rally at 10 o'clock. Island of St. Helen, or OranVs Island. This is held by the British government, for a military position and depot. It is principally covered with trees ; but has a beautiful gardtii behind the quarters of the officers ; and a fine road winding round from the landing place, on the south end, (where are some remains of old works, and a new battery,) to a rocky eminence over the arsenal, which is opposite the northern quarter of the town. This rock is about eleven feet higher than the most elevated parts of the city; and the view from it is handsome, with a wild ravine just below. 1 he arsenal and storehouses form three buildings, with a narrow yard between them, about 125 feet in length. The batteries range on the river and town, and are fur- nished with neat barracks, a magazine, &c. The Mountain of Moritreal offers an extensive and delightful view, and should by no means be forgotten by those who have an opportunity to undertake the excur- sion. It is better calculated to afford an idea of the country, as well as to delight the eye, than any other point to which an excursion can be made. Yet it is recommended, if the traveller stays long enough, to take a ride or two in differ- ent directions, after having visited this favourite spot. There are different ways of reaching the summit of the mountain ; on foot, by an intricate route from the southern part of the city ; on horseback, or in a carriage, to the ridge ; or round the north end to the rear. There is also a foot path up the north end. The country spread out to view on arriving at this com- ioaanding height, is a plain of such vast extent a* to aj»- WW '■■••* ■'■■■''Vl Mi A ■ *^ Ir. f mmM\ t . i-y: :'>'■l■ 1 it!-? • li'-^V,-'?] in**.- Is- f*fi 'i -kM i 118 MONTREAL MOUNTAIN. pear in many directions quite boundless. In fact, it stretch- es much farther than would bn imagined; for all the way to Quebec, the river's banks present the same appearanctt. The spectator faces the east. The side of the moun- tain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees, which soon give place below to a smooth descent, declining to the base, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the eleva- tion of which stands M'Tavish's house. A beautiful display of cultivated fields succeeds on the level, divided by high palings, and scattered with a few houses. Below a moderate descent, which appears like an old bank of the river, gardens and dwellings begin to increase ; and behind a succeeding one, of a similar description are •uburbs of thR city. Eastf on the horizon is Boucherville Mountain ; and over it is seen more indistinctly, Beloeil Mountain. The plain country between the Sorel and St. Lawrence is divided into innumerable fields, with scattering houses. In the same direction is seen St. Helen's, or Grant's Island ; and in a direction with the south end of it, the steeple of Bon-aecour church. North of this are the Que- bec suburbs, beginning near the barracks ; the Waterworks, and Baths. Nearer, are seen St. Louis and St. Lawrence suburbs. S. S. East, on the opposite shore. La Traiiie; and nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is not distin- guishable. In a range with them, are Nuns' Island, and Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore. The river is 3 J miles wide. The suburbs on the south side of the city, are St. Antoine, Ricolet, St. Anne's, and St. Joseph'^. North. Bout de I'Isle, the extremity of Montreal Island, Pointe aux Trembles, and the village of Bouclier- ville ; opposite which is Longueil, and further down, Va- rennes, with a two steepled church. JV. East, the view is boundless, with a succession of cultivated fields, which in the distance become quite un- distinguishable. The same appearance, it will hereafter be seen, extends along the river's banks quite to Quebec. Road round the Mountain. The road near the north end of the mountain is ornamented with many beautiful seats, and there are also some extensive manufactories. Behind it is a fine extent of cultivated ground. stretch- Lhe way jarancn. } moun- h trees, ieclining e eleva- aeautiiul , divided Below ik of the se ; and tion are Eiin ; and in. The ^rence is r houses. Grant's )f it, the the Que- terworks, L.awrence iiie; and ot distin- and, and ver is 3J the city, seph's'. Vlonlreal Boucher- own, Va- ePf>ion of quite un- hereafter ) Quebec, the north beautil'ul factories. Routes in Canada. 1V!> OTthkr Excursions. To Lachine, 9 mileSjOrSleagues^ The river road is the plcasantest ; giving a view of the Hapids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, the I idian village of Caughnawaga opposite, and crossing the Lachine Cav^K To Pointt aux Trembles and Bout de VIsle. The southern road to the Mountain, which crosses it ut the less elevated part of the ridge, near the middle, leads through St. .Joseph's suburbs, and afterward passes a number of fine country seats. The most remarkable arc those of Mr. M'Gillivray, and the late Mr. Gregor}-, members of the old North West Company, which was converted into the Hudson^s Bay Company. It engrossed the Indian trade for a vast distance up the lakes, and en- tiched many individuals. The Priests^ Farm lies westo .h^ city near the base of the mountain ; and is a large tract ' land, with an old building in the ancient Europea styie, preserving many of the features of feudal days, with its projecting square towers, small windows, pointed t "^ofs, and weather-beaten walls. The barns connected with it are very spacious, and seem capable of contairi .g a large part of the pro- ducts of the farm. The only wonder seems to be what a few old men can do with such vast stores, as well as with their receipts from various other quarters. The whole island of Montreal is a Seigneurie, in whicW the monks of Ricolet, as Seigneurs, have the right of a tax on every farm, on every purchase and sale of real estate, and many other privileges, vested in them by the king of France on the first settlement of the place. Cir- cumstances have conspired to reduce and destroy many of these privileges, so that the annual income of the priests, from this rich and valuable Seigneurie, though large, is very trivial, in comparison with its extent and fertility. Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise of Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Longueil; but Major Brown, not being able to land above the city as was intended, the former was taken prisoner by Gov. Carlton, nfter a sharp engagement, loaded with irons, and sent to England. Col. Warner afterwards erected batteries on the shore at Longueil, by which he drove back the go- vernor when he attempted to land on his way to relieve St. John's. 11* .fr I ' ill jt i , it' *•' ^v'OfiHT 1 J20 RIVER ST. LAWnEfiCK. Hi t i ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. Road to Quebec. Notwithstanding the common prejudices against tra- velling by land in Canada, which are entertained by many persons not acquainted with the country, it is re* commended to those who may find it convenient, to make arrangements for performing a part of the journey in i\m manner, either going or returning. The country is indeed a dead level, but it is entirely re- duced to cultivation, thickly populated, and with good roads. The way lies along the very margin of the Si. Lawrence, passing an almost uninterrupted succession of dwellings, and supplied with many comfortable and some good inns. Steamboat to Qi^ebec. Leaving Montreal in the steamboat, you pass under the fort on St. Helen's Island, the steeples and cupolas of the city being seen nearly in the following order beginning at the south end; Gray Nuns', Ricolet Church, Black Nuns', then the Old Cathedral, Episcopal Church, Nelson's Mon- ument, Bon-secour Church. Near the last, on the shore, are the Barrnrks, Water works, and Baths, the begin- ^ng of the Quebec suburbs, the residences of Judge Reed and Mr. M.ilson, with terraced gardens towards the river, &c. A little below is Malson's Brewei7, and Sir John Johnson's residence. The Rapids or St. Mary are between the island and these last mentioned objects, and run with such rapidity that steamboats are sametime» obliged to be drawn up by cattle. Long2ieil, just he\ow St. Hoien's. Longuc Pointe, 6 miles (2 leagues) from Montreal. Vercheres, on the east side. Varennes has a church with a double spire. Point aux Trembles^ 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Here is a nunnery, in which is a school for girls. Bout de VIsle. Here is no village, but only a fen-y. Confrecfsvr, on the east. Hepentignijf a pretty village. :c. nst tra- ined by it 18 re- to make y in this tirely re- ith good ■ the St. 3s»ion of md some inder ibe las of the [inning at ck Nuns', jn'sMon- he shore, ne begin- ge Reed the river, Sir J ohn and »nd rapitlity wn up by .^' \\'\ treah Here is a It only a ? ' . * .' U '♦.^ m.. lu-> hi V • ■.I ^) . tl i1 M i II t=^T LAWRIK.Vir;,; tmiu J/O. \'T/tK a to qt 'F.ilIU region p and fert narrow s river's b to such I crops, a move, in scape. Navig Steam river, foi expediti( ance to ( employe( fitted to freiglit, principal deal of then shij great nui shelter tl singuhir i fleet of 8 estiniatec The F, DS.7'/iroo;i .!•, ROUTI: To Ql/F.nEC. 121 At this placo it U rocommentled to the traveller by lanti, to mak«» a deviation from iho ilin^ct rond uUmg the river, \t he finds it convenient, tostee the delightful country between it nnd the town of Assomption. There is a beautiful road on each bank, varied with houses and trees. Ileturn so as to strike the road near St. Sulpiie. St, Sulpice, 24 miles (8 leagues) from Montreal. La Moraye. Berthier. Machiche is a pretty town, at the month of the RivierJ? du Loup. Many French customs are still preserved by the unmixed inhabitants of the St. Lawrence, some of which are agreea-* ble and interesting. There is very little variety to be discovered in the na- tural surface of the ground, but the jouniey throuj^h this region presents almost an unvarying scene of cultivation and fertility. For a great part of the distance, there is a narrow strip of com or potatoes between the road and the river's bank, to correspond with the fields which stretch off to such a distance on the other band ; and the variety of crops, and the occasional rows and cliimps (?f trees, re- move, in u good degree, the natural sumcne&s of the land- scape. Navigation and Trade of the St. Lawrence, &c/ Steamboats are of the utmost importance on this great river, for they contribute extremely to the convenience and expedition of travelling, and render most valuable assist- ance to commerce. Thore are many steamboats constantly employed between Montreal and Quebec, most of them fitted to accommodate passengers, as well as to carry freight, and all provided with powerful engines. Ther principal article of export frum Canada is lumber, a greuS deal of which is carried to Quebec in immense rafts, and then shipped for England. These rafts have usually a great number of sails to hoist in a fair wind, with huts to shelter the men from the weather, so that they have a very singular appearance, and at a little distance look like a fleet of sail boats. The population of Lower Canada i>> estimated at about 200,000. The French Canadiai)s uie umiaWo, cheerful; ; 1 gny^ ■ >i •I, it ll' I • \m&J >.^^ sent?.. and theii* backwardness in improvements is attributal)lft to the system under which they live. They are g^enerally brought up in great ignorance, and they are taught to dis" like and avoid not only the Protestant principles, but Pro* testants themselves. In New-England, as is well known, the law provides for the instruction of evefy child, without exception : and every child is actually instructed. Books iand newspapers, however, lose their effect as well as their value among these people. Among those regions wb;jro English {i,nd Scotch have settled, instruction is gaining ground; and in Montreal, the public schools are rising in importance : but it is to be feared that the Romish priests will long continue to oppose the extension of real know* ledge, and that while they retain their influence, the cha- racter of the people will remain depressed. The " Proceditrc^'' of Canada is founded on the edict of Louis 14th, of 16G7, and is the basis of the Civil Code. There were no lawyers before the Conquest in 1759, when they were created? and martial law pre- vailed from that time till 1774. The trial by Jury was introduced in 1785 ; and the Constitutional Charter in 1791. The houses are generally of one story, and are built of wood or stone, according to the nature of the country. Some of them are formed of squared timbers, and even of round logs ; but the latter are usually employed for the itonstraction of barns only> which are often covered with thaich. The houses and barns are frequently compos-* ?-d of several small buildings, erected at different pe- riods, according to the capacity or necessities of the pro- prietors. William Henry, or Sorel, 45 mileSi, or 15 Itagues from Monti ^al " This town, though quite small, is one of the principal places between the two capitals. It is on the south side cf the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Sorel, ot Richelieu, in a very sandy situation; and contains no- thing worthy of notice, except a little old church, a palisadued fort, and a neat square^ at the distance of a shorii; houses, The U gardens The a mile i barracki and reti On tl batteriei and floa with th to escBfi treal. j night; t ricani*. Bert ibut out ( of the si is a ferry ter, the i 'ipon th£ pears lik miles. Point ern shon the lake, following Oppos Rivers, a French founded Thrk is the lar 96 miles streets a; narrow ; one or tw being pri those of and seve ttlil; liable t» enerally t to dis* but Pro* known, without Books as their IS whijro J, dining rising in h priests ,1 know* the cha-" :he edict he Civil iquest in law pre- ury was larter in I built of country, ind even d for the red with compos* rent pe- the pro- i principal )uth side sorel, ot ains no* harch, a ance oC P.3UTE TO QUKBJEC. 123 shorts walk, rounded with several pretty white a snort waiK, sar/ounded witn sev< houses, a church, &c. a little in the New-England style. The fences are generally low, and afford the sight of gardens. The Government House stands about three quarters of a mile beyond the town It is a large red building, with barracks near it. The boat turns round on leaving Sorel, and returns to the St. Lawrence. On the opposite point, General Montgomery erected batteries on taking the place, in 1775, and prepared rafts and floating batteries, which maintained an engagement with the ships in which Governor Carleton attempted to escape to Quebec, and drove him back towards Mon- treal. He afterwards passed ihem in an open boat at night; but his vessels fell into the hands of the Ame- rican?. Berthibr is on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, ibut out of sight, being behind several low islands. Some of the steamboats stop there instead of at Soicl. There is a ferry across. Lake St. Peter. Op entering this large tract of wa- ter, the shores at the opposite end appear like mere lines upon the horizon, and a vessel at the opposite end ap- pears like a mere speck, the length of the lake being 20 miles. Point du Lac, or Woodlands, is seen on the north- ern shore, when nearly across ; ^>ut it is situated beyond the lake. A ridge of high land continues on the north, following the course of the river. Opposite Woodlands is Nicolet, 9 miles from Three Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English and a French church, together with a nunnery, and a college, founded by a Romish bishop of Quebec. Thrkf: Rivers, (Trois Rivieres,] Half Way. This is the largest town between Montreal and Quebec, and is 96 miles from the foimer, and 84 from the latter. The streets are generally straight, and regularly built, though narrow ; and the houses, although neat, are generally only one or two stories high, with windows in the roofs, and, being principally plasier'^d, have rather a dark aspect, like those of Montreal. It contains shops of various sorts, and several inns of a decent appearance. ' i r , y* . % It i f^. >N M "i^^ • V. ^^1 \m , • !• .,,*i i: i24 THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. ', I The Nunnery is in tho east part of the town, and has extensive grounds connected with it. The Parish Church is in tho south part of the town. Two large buildings, formerly ihe Court Ho"se and Jail, with the Nunnery, are the principal objects. While the American forces were on the retreat from Quebec, in 1775, General Sullivan sent General Thomp- son down from Sorel to attack this place. He went down tho right bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 mites from the town; but being discovered and misled, be found General Frazer drawn up in order of battle, while Gen. Nesbit was sent to cut off his retreat ; and the battle, which immediately commenced, was short and disastrous to the assailants, who lost their commander, and many offi.'iers and soldiers, as prisoners, although they had few killed. After several hours we approach Le BiGNKUx, a village on the south side of the river, known by its double-spired church. It stands on a steep bank, about 60 feet high, and marks the commeneement of tho Richelieu rapids. The river here winds between broken banks, and the number of cottages is so great as to make the scene more animating. A few blue, but not lofty mountains, are seen down the river. Rapids of Richelieu. The river, which is about two miles wide, here runs with great velocity, particularly the first three miles; but the water is deep, and the surface unbroken, except near the shores, which are lined with in- numerable loose round stones and rocks, extremely dan- gerous to vessels when they get among them. These rocks seem placed with much regularity, forming two ranges. Although the navigation of this part of the St. Lawrence requires great skill and caution in other vessels, steamboats pass with security; yet, on account of the force of the current at ebb tide, even they are obliged to vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in such a way as to have the flood through the rapids. Vessels are often seen waiting at the bottom of the rapids for a change of tide, or for a steamboat to tow them up. The rapids extend about 9 miles. St. a >?toine, on the south bank, is 18 miles, (6 leagues) and has le town, and Jail, eat from Thorap- jntdown ilea from iO found lile Gen. e battle, isastrous nd many had few the river, n a steep meement I, and the ene more I, are seen ibout two ularly the e surface id with in- nely dan- . These ming two Df the St. 3r vessels, jnt of the obliged to way as to Dften seen je of tide, ds extend 6 leagues) ROUTE m 0A5ADA. 1 »7. '■iJ from Quebec. The mountain seen towards the north- east is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side makes a beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by culti- vated fields, interrupted by occasional patches of wood- land ; on the side of the ridge, about midway from the water to the top, passes the road. The south shore, on the contrary, continues high and abrupt and nearly perpendicular, with innumerable cottages peeping over the brow. PoiNTE Aux Trembles, a village on the north shore. The river is about the same breadth all along here, viz. about two miles, although it appears much narrower ; the depth is about 5 fathoms, and the tide rises 14 or 15 feet- Notwithstanding the thickness of the population on the shores, the country is a wilderness only about four miles back, beingf comprehended in what is called the King^s Hunting Ground^ which extends from Three Rivers, 40 or 60 miles below this place. Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a village on the north side, situated at the mouth of the river of the same name, which is likewise distinguished by the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law- rence. Here are the remains of the first church in Ca- nada. Carouoe CREEk, on the north side. Here a pretty view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at the distance of three or four miles, with an extent of beau- tiful land, and a range of fine mountains in the rear. Chaudiere River is a little below, with a rock on the lower side, at its mouth. Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point Levi is seen, covered with white buildings one of which is the church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for a considerable distance invisible. The banks rise to a greater and greater height, and present every variety of surface. Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was fought the final battle between the English and French in 1759, pf'.er the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe, which completed the conquest of Canada. •Mi-- ¥m r r. ^ \ h 1 j' ; > I-. ., t-. 1*1 ( . 128 qTIEBEC ■•' H<S lV<3//(?'« Cot'fl i3 beliind the next [;oint. ThU is tho place where Wolfe landed in the nii^ht, and up the preci- pitous bank he climbed with his trocps, afterwards draw- iner up his cannon. Here Gen. Arnold afterwards took up his troops, in 1775. There is a remarkable rock pro- jecting from the bank, at the head of the cove, a little to the right of which is seen a road running up the hill, at the place where the troops went up, when there was nothing but 8 foot path. Cape Diamond \s the abrupt bluff in which terminates the high land on the north, and under the opposite side of which Quebec is «' ^ted. It is 348 feet high ; and the fortified lines on its urow belong to the city walls, and the citadel, which is included by them. The telegraph is raised on the Cavaliers' Battery, and the round buildings on the ridge are Martello towers, which serve as advanced works to the fortress. The mountains of St. Anne and Tourmentc appear many miles down the river. General Montgomery was kilU d just at the base of Cape Diamond, in attacking a bd^ck house on the shore, in 1775. Quebec. The Lower Town of Quebec begins near ibis spot, and stretches alon^^ at the foot of the rock, while th>^ Upper Town soon begins to -spen to view above, though the principal part of it is on the vop and the opposite side. The Castle of St. Louis, cv the Governor's House, •overhung this precipice, being built on supporters ; and made r --'gpicuous appearance, interrupting the city wall, v; J > encloses the Upper Town. It has been burnt. But the current is too swift to allow much time for observation before arriving at the wharf, where the travel- ler will find servants in waiting from the principal public Jiouses in the city: these are all in the Upper Town, the ascent to which is intricate as well as steep and labori- *iU3, so that the stranger will want their assistance as guides. The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and contains no decent public houses. After three or four turns, you begin to ascend Mountain-street, which is very steep and laborious, and leads to a gate in the city wall, which is Very massive, built in the old European style, of solid stone, very thick, with narrow passage ways for carriages and fool for musl a batter to the It A wa] city, by ing, as i finest of It is I pleasant morency particula much be the morr The w and a Hi space is The 1 public sc one side, the who pictures are a H( Tongues The ( ing out consider? They ma black go stitutions The i left from pictures, hand nea tended b; picture o the Bapt on the Ic Saviour, picture, t and over scending } is tho e preci- 3 draw- ds took ick pro- a little up the ;n there minates site side and the and the jraph is iiildings [Ivanced nne and base of e shore, ns near k, while , though e side. House, ;rs; and the city n burnt, ime for travel- il public )wn, the i Jabori- ance as contains rns, you eep and which is of solid arriages QUEBEC. 12'/ and fooliaen, and a guard chamber abnve, n'ith loophoi i Tor musketeers. On the ri^uht, after passing this gate, is a battery of heavy guns. The street which opens a little to the left leads into the midst of the city. A walk to tho Esplanade, in the highest part of the city, by the wall, is very delightful at morning or even* ing, as it commands a fine view : but Capo Diamond the finest of all. It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first pleasant dayfj to make excursions to the Falls of Mont* morency, the village of Lorette, &c. which will be more particularly spoken of hereafter; and it will be found much better, on several accounts, to set out as early in the morning as possible. The walls of Quebec enclose the upper part of the hill, and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but the space is so small that the buildings are extremely crowded* The French Parish Church stands at one end of tho public square, facing the barracks, with the seminary on one side. The Church contains little that is remarkable^ the whole interior appearing rather ordinary, and the pictures having little to boast of: the principal of them are a Holy Family, an Ascension, Crucifixion, Descent of Tongues, and Last Supper. The College, which stands a little to the right in com- ing out of the church, is a large stone building in -<. Kich c considerable number of youth are educated by »^x : ^^ts. They may be distinguished in the city by wearing • long black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to ^ ich in- stitutions in Popish countries. The Chapel of the Seminary, which standri a liulc left from the principal gate, contain the best colie.j'on o( pictures, it is said, in all Canada: beginning on the righc hand near the door, is a picture of the Virgin Mary at* tended by angels, &c. in the first chapel on that side is a picture of the Crucifixion, over the altar ; on the right, tho Haptism of the Ethiopian, John's Baptism. T . John ; on the left, a porti-uit, St. Peter receiving the . infant Saviour, Devotees, &c. on the church wall, x\c^„ .a a good picture, then the Ascension, and Interment of the Saviour, and over the high altar, a Holy Family, and Dove de- scending; what appears to be some priest's dream ; on the 12 'if ^ i \ *.»• ¥^^■'4 I.. f,': ( . 5«i !' ■ -.. ■ ' 4. 128 PLACE D ARMES. !l-'l S'm- m left side, 13 the Descent of Tongues, and an Angel vi-iitin^ a saint in prison, ,',^ood ; over the altar in the remaining chapel, is the Bapti-^m in the Wilderness, with a number of poor pictures ; ii!id in the church are an EvangeHst, Wise Men presenting Gifts, &c. In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar, are two sculls, with several human bones, placed against red silk, which are regarded with superstitious reverence, as holy and perhaps miraculous relics ; a lamp is kept constantly burning under that on the left hand. The Barracks arc in a large stone building opposite the church, which was formerly the Jesuits' College : it is three and four stories high, forming an angle like an L, each side of which is about 200 feet long. Here are quartered the troops which garrison the city. Here were imprisoned the Americans captured in the attack on the city, in 1775. Convents. There arc two convents in Quebec ; one of them has about 40 Ursulines, who have a large convent and church near the prison, in the west part of the city, and keep a large school for girls. The other convent is lower down, and contains a hospital for diseases of the lighter kinds ; while the most serious and severe are treat- ed at the nunnery near the St. Charles's River, about 1^ miles above the town. These institutions, however, are not now open to visiters as they formerly were; at least it is generally impossible to gain access Lo them. The Arsenal is near the Palace gate, and contains about 100,000 stand of arms, arranged with great regu- larity. The Place d^Armes is a small square on an elevated position, on which stood the Castle of St. Louis, the Governor's residence, which was burnt in 1834. Here is a building containing the Museum of the Society for pro- moting Literature, Science, Arts, and Historical Research in Canada. Here is also the Monument to Generals Wolfe and Montcalm, who fell in the battle on the Heights of Abraham. It is 65 feet high. The street beyond commands a fine view ; and there are several beautiful terraced gardens formed on the steep side of the rock, almost overhanging the buildings in the lower town. irH - ■- ::^\: QUF.nEC. 129 visitin* mnining number ingelirit, !;h altar, I against vcrence, is kept opposite Uegc : it like an Hero aro ere were ik on the ^ 1 one of ; convent ' the city, :;onvent is 3es of the are treat- about 14 ever, arc at least it contains reat regu- elevated .ouis, the Here is ty for pro- Research Generals ,e Heights and there the steep njrs in the Tlie fortifications of the city on the land side are strong-, and worthy of particular attention. St. Louisas Gate is the highest of the city gates, and the street of the same name conducts to it; this leads tu the famous plains of Abraham. The Esplajiade Battery lies between St. Louis and St. John's gates, and contains 12 cannon and 4 mortars, with magazines built where they could not be injured by an enemy's shot. The ground slopes in such a manner as to expose a large extent of country to view : the fine fertile })lain beyond St. Charles' River, the beautiful ridge of lands beyond, with the villages of Lorette, Charlebourg and others; the St. Lawrence on the right, with Point Le- vi, the Isle of Orleans, and the fine ranges of distant moun- tains. The mouth of the Montmorency can easily be dis- cerned, on the left bank of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles from the city. That is the spot where the falls are to bo seen, and the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe made an unsuccessful attack on the French General Montcalm, be- fore the capture of the city. Mounting to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, the plan of the defences may be in part discerned, even by an unpractised eye ; and by descending and passing through the gate, the strength of the place will be better under- stood. The walls of the city, the bastions, and other works, are from 20 to 30 feet in height, and formed of stone. The path is made to turn several abrupt angles, in order to expose the approach to raking fires. The gate is of very heavy and durable masonry, and the passage through it is a dark arched way, about 55 feet long ; it is closed by two heavy doors, with wickets so placed as not to face each other. Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, about 50 feet high, which contains gentlemen's gardens. The Citadel, on Cape Diamond, i' designed for a place of impregnable strength. It has been gradually progress- ing for a number of years, and is expected to be soon completed. Admission may be usually obtained by appli- cation to the proper officers, and necessary information can be gained at the hotels. The British government intend- tri to devote £5000 per annum on these works; but as tho f- V 130 TUB CITADKL. money was sometimes delayed, they were occasionally ex jiosed to some interruptions. This citadel renders the city defensible against a large force. Most of the works are new, though some parts of the old have been made to serve. They include five or six acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, and extend to the verge of the precipice, IJ48 feet above the St. Law- rence. There arc four bastions and one demi-bastion, a ravelin, in advance of the western bastion, and other out- works. The wails are about 40 feet high, and built per pendicularly, of fine he "n stone; the ditch being blasted out of the solid rock, and about 50 feet wide. The Casemates. Entering the gates and passing be- hind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is discovered following the wall, built of substantial brick work, and arched over head with such strength as to be bomb proof. These rooms, which are known by the technical name of Casemates, are about 50 feet long, 20 wide, and 16 or 18 high, each with a door and two small windows, looking in- ward, and pierced at the other side, with five loop holes each, for musketry. These loop holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, and opening with steps faced with iron, to prevent musket shot from glancing in. There are about 40 casemates all towards the land side : the natural defence of the precipice over the water being sufficiently strong to prevent the attempts of an enemy in that direction. The casemates commnnicate with each other by folding doors, which may be thrown open the whole length of the bomb-proofs, and will then fur- nish space for the whole garrison, (from »000 to 5000 men,) to parade at once. The Suhtcrra7iean Passar^e leads from a iittle staircase in the bastion next east of the gate, under the diich, to a small outwork with two or three casemated rooms. The stairs are narrow and spiral. At the corner next the river and town, is the old Cavaliers' Battery, a very heavy stone build- ing, originally erected for the palace of the French governors of Quebec : below it, at the water's edge. Gen. Mont- gomery was killed. It has dark vaults, the walls are six feet thick, near the ground, and from the Telegraph on tho top is one of the finest vieA^s that can be imagined: the !• (iUKBEC. 131 lallvcx the c\ty 9 of the re or six ixtt'nd to 5t. Law- [istion, a ther out- milt per J blasted ssing be- scovered >rk, and nb proof, name of 16 or 18 oking in- )op holes the new ced with , There de : the Br being n enemy ate with )wn open then fur- to 5000 staircase itch, to a Ins. The river and one build - governors n. Mont- 9 are six ph on the ined: the l)r')Iid surface of tlio St. Lawrence liesbelow, and strctchefl «)ir far to the ri-^ht and left < the whole city of Quebec is crowded together almodt beneath you, while Point Lovi< with its white buildings^ is seen opposite, with a long stretch of lofty ahoros. Turning the eye in the opposite direciionj the beautiful ridge of land, which begins many miles down the river on the northern side, and rises with II gentle swell from the shore, covered with the richest and most varied display of cultivation, oilers a most delightful view over an extensive and fertile region, beautiful inform, divided into innumerable portions, cultivated by a dense and industrious population, and scattered with their dus^ tered dwellings. On the left, appears, among other vil-* luges, that of Lorette, with the Montreal road for nine miles, almost lined with houses} and on the light that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of the high ground, while v. little beyond it, is the chasm into which the River Mont- morency plunges, with its famous cataract, just before it joins the St. Lawrence ; all the horizon in that direction, and indeed from the west to the north, and quite to the cast, is bt'oken by ranges of line mountains, some of them near and bold, and in other places, between them, distant blue ridges are disclosed, three, four, or five in succession* Tsononthuan Moimtain, which has two summits and 13 2000 feet high in the northwest, is the southern extreme of the granite range teaching from the Labrador coast to Lake Superior. In the south and southwest, where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower range, scattered AVith ctittagos. It may, perhaps, not be hazarding too mucii 10 say, that no scene in Canada, or the United States, can boust of a combination of objects, comparable in va-* riety and magniiicence to those here presented to view. Thei'e is a long staircase o^ many stepg, leading from this elevated position down to the Lower Town, by which it was originally intended to draw up heavy arti* cles. The PlainU of Abra'ham;-^T\)\% interesting tract of ground, the field where Gen. Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow in capturing the city of Quebec in 1759, lies at only about the distance of a mile, and should not be Indeed it would be found amply to repay the fteglectcd. ^■•1 i . ''<! V ■ « >t ¥ '^- -?•. '■ "% 12^ • U rS fi'. -ri'l'i 5- i I l%| 'IS t\ •■■ »l 132 KEtGHtS or AfiItAHAM» trouble, to mako a rrmcli lonji^prexoursion in tlirif dlrcctlotl, as tho rojid is fine and the country inKMi'stin^.* Passing out at St. Louis's Gato, you obsprve a nunnbrr of handsome dwellings and gardens by the road side, until you get some distilncc beyond tho towers, when you turn into tho Rare Course on the left side of the road. The foundation of a monument to Wolfe and Montcalm was laid in lui27. Tlie spot where Gen Wolfe fell is near the corner of the fenced field, oil' toward:* the riveri A little east of the place, is tho remnant of a breast work "with several angles, and comman<ling a fine view. Tho British line was first formed across the phtin, and the bat* tie was fought principally on that ground. The Plains of Abraham ate about a quarter of a mile in breadth, extending a great distance towards the west, with a gentle slope on each aide, and so smooth as to oflef an admirable field for the mancuuvering and display of troops. Wolfe''s Cove is about rt mile further west* * AAer the battio of Montmorency, while the English fleet lay up thH river, at one o'clock in the night of S.^ptember liith, 1759. Gen. Wolfe quietly transporter! his troops from the fleet into the boats, and cautiously passed down the river. He intended to bind two or three miles aliove Cape Diamond, and get possession of the Heights of Abraham : but was drifted down so rapidly that he passed the place without discovering it, and then resolved to attempt a land- ing at Wolfe's Cove, just above the city, The shore is bold and thd rocks so high and steep, that only a few sentinels were posted nlong the precipices and the margin. This dt-spcrate enterprise however did not iliscourage the leader or his troops ; but an hour before day break they had etfeeted their landing, und commenced the arduous ascent by a narrow, broken path, at the top of which was stationed a captaiji's guard. As fast as the English reached the sinnmit they lormed on ihe level lain. At ten o'clock Alonicalm arrived from above, and a battle was fought, which decided the fate of Canada. Montcalm stationed 1500 sharp shooters in front, hut the British coolly stood their ground till the French were within 40 yards, when they opened their fire, and soon afterwards terminated the engagement with Iheir bayonets. Tho place where the greatest carnajre was made, is near the nver*s bai k, where tho English left was clo.seIy en- gaged with the Froncli right. The action lasted two hours, and in it both chiefs received their mortal wonnds. Gen. Wolfe was isbot in two or three places^ When hardly any signs of life re* roained, news was brought that the day had declared for ibe BrJ- IJah, '♦ Tlie«^" said ho) " I die contentV' recti oti, rl side, ion you e road. )ntcalm fell is 10 river. at work 1. Tho the bat- f a mile le wo9t, \ to otVer splay of eetlay up "VoO.Gen. llic boats^ tid two or e Heights assed thd jt a land- and thd re posted nterprise It an hour niinenced of which I reached lattle waB stationed ood Iheif ey opened nent with ivas made/ losely en- inurs, and Volfe was )f life re* the Bri- StEdK otQuEnKC. In 1775, soon after th 133 )fth the C( il C( commence ress i)renf 1 TTient nil expediiicjii ai^aiiist Coiiiiilu It consisted of two divi" ?ion3 : one under (ien. Montiiomerv came down Lake Champluin and took St. John's, Chambly, Sorel, Three llivers, and then proceeded down the St. Lawrence to' this place. The other, under Gen. Arnold, took tho route throULjIi the wilderness of Mtiino for Qiicl)ec. Arnold had 10 companies of infantry, besides 3 of rille-* men, and one of artillery, with a few volunteers. They proceeded up tho Kennebeck, but suffered so much from fatigue anil scarcity that many fell sick, and one division returned. Tlie remaiiuh^r, however, reached Point Levi on the Dth of Novenjbcr, and alarmed the city. The batteaux had been removed, and the strong wind detail Ki them from crossing, after they had been supplied by the Canadians. The English frigate Lizard and several other vessels were also in the river. lie iit length, how-« ever, effected a landing a little above Wolfe's Cove, and marching down the shore climbed up the rocks at that place, and surrounded the city without effect. He then retired 20 miles to Pointe aux Trembles, and waited fot Gen. Montgomery, who arrived, after great trials, Dec< 1st, wnh about 300 men. The two generals afterwards marched to Quebec, and planting their mortarj on the snow and ice, fired into the town with little effect. The small pox broke out, and the cold was severe ; but the town was attacked at four poi at onco, in a snow storm, without success. Montgomery \vas killed, one detachiiient was taken, and Arnold retired three miles and intrenched himself. The Falls of Montmorkncy. Hire a coach, a gig/ ti. caleche, or a srlddle horse, and set out, if possible, early in the morning. In a caleche, you will have the advantage of a guide in yoi ;• driver. Pass through the Palace gate' and a vdlage divided from Quebec only by tho wall, cross the bridge over St. Charles' river^ which forms a regular serpentine, and enter the beautiful cultivated plain beyond* A Convent and Hospital are seen about a mile on the left, and a handsome succession of fields is observed on both sides, divided by low palings. At the distance of a mile and a half tlw road passes scYsral country houses/ ,) ■■' .( I i' i'VA » i m ■' ^:l:j m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 130 IM 12.5 ■ 2.2 1^ Bat ll^ US lU u 1*0 11-25 III 1.4 12.0 m ^ % 7. '^> '/ ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation ?3 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 134 rALLS OP MONTMOItENCV. i Rifling' down the coast, nt a considerable elovaticni from the river, many fine views are presented of the oppa» site hanks, the isle of Orleans, the mountains of St Anno and Tourmente down the rirer. The dwellings are small, and the inhabitants po<jr and numerous. Beaufort is a village principally composed of such buildings, stretching for a great distance along the road. On approaching tiio Montmorency, the road crosses an extensive, smooth and gradual ascent, part of which was the field of a bloody slaughter, suffered by a division of Gen. Wolfe's army in 1759, a shoi't time previous to his battle on the Heights of Abraham. The French lines were bounded by the neater bank, as the remains of their intrenchments on the left still testify } and the British came up from the shore of the St. Law* rence on the right, to attack two of their nearest batteries before the second of which they were cut to pieces. Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the horses, you may proceed along the precipitous bank of the Mont- morency) by a foot path, to see the falls from this side* As it is a difficult way, and the view more fine and unob- structed from the opposite side, it is hardly worth the trou- ble, unless you have plenty of time. You have to clamber rocks, pass down a long ladder, and stand on the verge of an abyss into which the cataract dashes. Water is drawn off here in a wooden race, for the supply of Mr. Patter^ son's great Saw*mill3, which 'ire worthy of being visited* It is better therefore to follow the road on foot, to cross* the bridge, and entering the fields on the right, follow down the course of the river. There are several fine I>oints of view, from which the falls appear to great ad- vantagCi On the fine elevated point formed by the junction of the two rivers, and commanding an unobstructed view upon the St. Lawrence for many miles up and down, with several lofty mountains below, the Isle of Orleans oppo- site, Quebec above, and the cataract close at hand, the British here iojk a strong position in July, 1759 ; and from this place made a bold, but unsuccessful attempt against their enemies on the opposite side. The remains of their intrenchments are plainly visible under our feet* The best view of the cataract is to be ei\joyed from the spur of t but the 8] coat of gr The hi banks on ful prcci| «iaty rock the perpei low walei caution, w the tide ri Battle came to o his army c aded the p ton was se there, whe the River the Marqui troops at tl of July 31i east of th< The Fren( and on the to ford the works. S( I^evi in cro ensued ; hi the beach however, t( with 200 A wait or to f but marche hili in amai back from deserted, them, whic obliged tore back to the terrupted b) The ViLi QUEBEC. 135 spur of the rodi, which projects from the eastern shore ; but the spray, which keeps the surface covered with a coat of green, will drench the clothes in a few minutes. The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and the banks on both sides below forms a precipitous and fright- ful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, slaty rock, v uose strata incline from north to south, and the perpendicular veins run nearly N. W and S. E. At low water the Montmorency may be forded, with some caution, where it was passed by the British troops ; but the tide rises faat and high. Battle of Montmorency. When General Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in June, 1759, he posted his army on vhe island of Orleans while the fleet block- aded the port. At the end of that month General Moiick- ton was sent over to Point Levi, and established himself there, whence he was able to fire upon the city. Above the River Montmorency, the landing was protected by the Marquis de Montcalm. General Wolfe landed his troops at the mouth of the Montnicrcncy during the night of July 31st, and erscti'd a battery on the precipice north- east of the falls, the remains of which are to bo seen. The French were intrenched along the opposite bank ; and on the 31st of July, General Wolfe sent his troops to ford the Montmorency below the falls, to storm their works. Some of General Monckton's force from Point Levi in crossing with boats got aground, and difficulty ensued ; hut the landing was made in the afternoon on the beach to the right of the saw mills. They came, however, too late ; for the thirteen grenadier companies with 200 Americans, who had landed before, refused to wait or to form, as had been intended in four columns, but marched tumultuously round the rock, and rushed up hill in a mass towards the French works, at some distance back from the old redoubt on the point, which had been deserted. A warm fire, however, was directed against them, which cut down about 500 men, and they were obliged to retreat to the redoubt, whence they were ordered back to the beach to form. The enterprise was then in- terrupted by a severe storm, and finally abandoned. The Village of Lorette may be taken in the way i.«* 13G LAKE CHAMPLAIN. \f returning from Montmorency, if there should be time enough lemairiing, (which is barely possible,) and the rule along the higli ridge leading in that direction, will be found delightful. Lorette is an Indian village, with a church, and the stranger may furnish himself with m )cca- sins, belts, pipes, &c. Land Route from Quebec to Montreal. Upper Road. (The pleasanter.) 1st post, Lorette 16 miles, 2d Jacques Carlier 16, 3d Descharnbeaux 16, 4th St. Anne 16, 5th BatiscampS, 6th Champlain 9, 7th Aux Cayes 8, 8th Trois Rivieres 6. Lower Road. 1st post, Cape Rouge 9 miles, 2d St. Augustine 9, 3d Pointe aux Trembles 8, 4th Ecureil 9, 6th Cape Sante 9. (Garneau's inn, called " The Three Sisters" is ex- cellent.) 6th Descharnbeaux, &c. 8. ROUTES FROM QUEBEC. Steamboat. Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Diamond, nearly at the foot of which General Mont- gomery was killed in 1775. Wolfe''s Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 132. Rapids of Richelieu, p"ge 124. Three Rivers, page 123, Lake St. Peter. William Henry or Sorel, page 122. Montreal, page 114. From Montreal to Lake Champlain, and thb United States. Passage from 3t. John's to Whilehnll. Isle aux Noix 10 miles. Rouse's Point 11, Chazy 12, Plattsburgh 15, Port Kent 8, Burlington 10, Charlotte. Essex 15, Poit ROUTE FROM CAXAUA. i3r Clinton 10, Dalliba's Works, Port Henry 9, Chimney Point 12, Ticonderoga 15, Whitehall 25. On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes much narrower. The Four Channels. Fourteen miles from White- hall, the lake suddenly contracts itself into four narrow passages, between two ranges of mountains, which in some places present perpendicular precipices ; and its bed, at low water, appears almost entirely occupied by a little meadow of the brightest green, through which the chan- nels wind with beautiful turnings. A succession of beautiful little turnings are passed, with ragged precipices, and many little patches of level ground on the margin of the water ; while, on the eastern side, the tow path accon)panies the bank. South Bay opens to the south, and runs down five miles between high mountains. General Dieskau took this route with his army, in going towards Fort Edward, in 1755. The Devil's Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek. The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two very short turns, through which the passage requires a very exact helm. East Bay l "kes off at the first bend, and makes up five miles, along a romantic country. A sugar loaf hill will be observed at a little distance on the right, which rises above Whitehall, and makes the approach to that place quite picturesque. Whitehall. On the top of a rock over the harbour was formerly a battery, and in the town a block house. Numerous boa >) and great quantities of lumber arc usually seen here, as the Champlain or Northern Canal begins at the bridge, where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a rocky channel. The heights at this place were occupied by Burgoyne's right wing, while he was preparing to march towards Sa- ratoga ; his centre was formed by General Frazer; the Brunswickers on the left, rested on the river of Castleton; and the Hessians were at tbe head of East Day. ^1 ' /I ):-;lI-r It 138 IlaUTE FROM CANADA. i To Albany, by canal packet or stagecoach, 68 m* Fort Anne, 12; Fort Edward, 9; here a coach passes to Saratoga Springs ; Fort Miller, 8 ; Schuylersville, fi ; British Lines, 7 ; (see page 78) ; Passirrg Behmis'a Heights, Stillwater, 8 ; Borough, 3 ; VVaterford,* 8^, Hence railroads lead to Ballston and Troy. The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek, which is dammed and used for a canal, to which its nar- rowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. This creek is famous in the history of the operations in thi» region during the revolutionary and French wars; and after repeated exertions to clear it of the logs, &c. by which it was obstructed, it bore the troops sent against Canada, &c. which often passed by thir route, from the days of Queen Anne. The scenery is agreeable, though rough ; and there is little cultivation off the road. Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne, Wood Creek makes an elbow to a ledge of rocks, so near that there is but little space for the road between. Here Col. Sterry was overtaken, in the retreat from Ticonde roga, in 1777, by Burgoyne's troops, and an engagement took place, memorials of which are occasionally found in the soil to this day. A little south, on the brow of the hill, a quarter of a mile from the stagehouse, stood Fort Anne, in the revolution. The old fort of the same name, built many years pre- viously, and known in the French wars, was about half a mile south of the village, on a gentle eminence a little east of the road, where some remains of the old in- trenchments are still to be seen. The remains of Burgoyne's Road begin about two miles south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are traced about three fourths of a mile, near the present road to a wood. It was formed of logs, and found ne- cessary to render the country passable with his cannon and baggage wagons. The labour necessary for its f )r- mation, superadded to that of clearing Wcwd Creek of the obstructions which Qen. Schuyler had thrown into * Saddle Mountain, whose lody ridge will be seen from almoiit every point in this Vicinity, is 2,800 I'oet liigher than the site ot Williams' College. It derives its name from its rc^scmliiance to a riding saddle. it after the cause of the the road— a some their resources, a mis's Heigh French JV a succession Bay, Lake C About hal where was j The Mun the village o\ young man i having attacl their forces command in of the Amer were approa Edward to b secure her s with her sa\ Anne ; and 1 stopped to d way side ; ar Indians desp last attemptc others, being her to a tree her dead wi borne to her 1 what they cr This story ported that mitted the charge ; and the least ki chargeable bringing trib( could never 1 Fort Ed> bourhood of FORT EDWARD. 130 it after the retreat of the Americans, was one great cause of the delay of the British army, on this part of the road — a delay which allowed the people time to re- sume their spirits, and the officers to lay plans, ob'ain resources, and prepare for the sanguinary scones at Beh- mis's Heights, and the surrender at Saratoga. French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, with a succession of high grounds in the direction of South Bay, Lake George, &c. About half a mile above Fort Edward, if? the place where was perpetrated The Murder of Miss McCrea. Miss McCrea lived in the village of Fort Edward. In the revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, to whom she was betrothed, having attached himself to the English cause, and joined their forces in Canada, was invested with a captain's command in Gen. Burgoyne's army. After the retreat of the Americans from the lake, and while the British were approaching, he sent a party of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to him, that he might secure her safety. She was very unwilling to proceed with her savage conductors on the road towards Fort Anne ; and had gone only half a mile when the Indians stopped to drink at a spring which still flows by the way side ; and while here were met by another party of Indians despatched to hasten them on. Those who came last attempted to take her under their charge ; but the others, being determined not to give her up alive, bound her to a tree that is yet standing near the spring, and shot her dead with their muskets. Locks of her hair were borne to her lover to prove that tho Indians had performed what they considered their duty to their employer. This story rang through the country} and it was re- ported that Gen. Burgoyne encouraged or at least per- mitted the murder. In indignant terms he denied the charge ; and there appears no probability that he had the least knowledge of it. He, however, was justly chargeable with a great offence against humanity, in bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barbarity he could never be sure of restraining. Fort Edward. This village was built in the neigh* bourhood of a fort raised during the war of 1755, for the 13 m ^'i:.'i * A J: •( -.I m uo Font MltLlR. 4 <ipfence of this point of tbo rivor. It uas first called Fort Lyman, after Gon. Lyman, of whom we have alrondy had occasion to make honourable mention at Lake Geor^'e. This spot was formerly called the First Carryinfj Place, being the point where, in the expeditions against Canada, the troops, stores, &c. were landed and taken to Wood Creek, a distance of twelve miles, where they were again embarked. Bakcr^s Talls^ at Sandy Hill, arc worthy ofpartini- hir attention, and are seen to great advantage from ionio parts of the bank. The whole descent of the river at this place is about 75 feet. Fort Miller. The village still retains ihe name of a fort erected on the west side of the river, in former times. It was a work of insignificant size, situated on the bank and near Miller^s Falls. The descent of rhe river here is rapid, and over a broken channel. The falls were formerly con- sidered impassable with safety, until Gen. Putnam per- formed it while stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. The Great Dam. Above Fcrt Edward, a large and expensive dam 900 feet long, has been built across the river, and a canal cut along the bank to open a passage for boats. [For places on any route selected by the traveller, see the Index.] TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. To Travellers going Eastward from New- York, It is recommended to the stranger who is travelling eastward to see the country, to determine on some plan for his journey before setting out. Steamboats go from New- York to the following places on the northern shore of Long Island Sound : Greenwich, Norwalk, Stamford, Bridge- port,** Stratford, New-Haven, Connecticut River, (and up that to Hartford,) New-London, (and Norwich,) Newport, (and Providence.) * The Housntonic Railroad^ from Bridgeport, Conn., to mpettiie Berkshire Railroad on the Macsaciiusetts line, is already coi^plete Leaving the travel! tur size in ful. The Na The Ra The/»e beyond. Poor Hou the north From ] seen the to New Mili miles from 1 will co.^neci bridge. Be^ and a tunnc ture 1000 I miles— to / The roa Island, W< and Rye, ii Darien, Nc Orange in ( In the to^ hill descciK once effect( during rhe drove hia road, and his pursuer In the to before rea( right hand trahle swai of a l)lood> and terribi their couai of their foi or taken c guished tl cleared in confirm th Thisplj an inland I un action ToLR OF NE\V-£NGLA»D. 141 EAST RIVER. Leaving New-York in anyof tljc Eost River steamboats, the traveller has Brooklyn on the right, nov/ the second city tor size in thu state, elevatocl, well built, shady and health- ful. The Navy Yard, just beyond. The Railway, for ships, is above, on the west side. The Penitentiary, and the Fever Hospital, are a little beyond. The Penitentiary on Black .veil's Island, the Poor House Farm opposite, and the Lunatic Hospital on the north end of it. From Hell Gate, on the distant ligh ground, west, is Been the Lunatic Asylum ; and a amber of handsome to New MilforJ, 35 miles, and is to bn flDi8hed;iD 1841. It'will be 73 miles from the Sound to Masbachiiaetts. The Berkshire Railroad will co..nect it with the Greiit Western Railroad, at West Stork- bridge. Begun 1837, estimated cost, a million — has an embankment and a tunnel, maximum'frrade 40 feet per mile, a minimum curva- ture 1000 feet radius. From Bridgeport to West Stockbridge, 95 miles— to Albany 133. The road to New-Hoven passes t!irough Harlem on Manhattan Island, West Chester, East Chester, New-F ochelle, Miimaronec, and Rye, in the State of New-York; and Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, Norwalk, Fairfield, Bridgeport. Stratford, Milford, and Orange in Connecticut In the town of Greenwich, 33 miles from New-York, is a steep hill descending towartis the north, down which General Putnam once effected his escape from several British officers and soldiers during the revolutionury war, when returning from a scout. Ha drove his horse hastily down the rocky hill side, a little east of the road, and near the fence, and saved so much distance as to elude his pursuers. In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New- York, a mile or two before reaching the village, is a low, level piece of ground on tho right hand side of the road, which was formerly an almost impene- trable swamp, and, at an early period of our history, was the scene of a hloody slaughter. It was hither that the remains of a powerful and terrible nation of Indians, called Pequods, having fled from their country ahout New-London and Groton, after the destructioit of their fort at Mystic by C^pt. Mason, in lfi36, were cither killed or taken captive. This was their last and total defeat, and extin- guished their nar^e as a nation. Much of the ground has beea cleared in modern times ; and some reliques have been found to confirm the traditions of the neighbourhood. This place was burnt by the British in the revolution. Danbury, an inland town, was also burnt, with extensive public storei, and uii actioa was fought in which Gen. Wooster fell. 142 NEW-HAVEM. w I ■t i country houses along- the groen shore on the left. The surface is broken by several rocks, and by the agitation of the water, particularly at tho whirl called the Great Pot, a little north cfthe point, and the rapid current on the oppo- site shore, known by the name of the Hog's Back. In coming from the north, almost the first view of New-York is here presented, between tho western shore and BlackwcU's Isl- and, with a shot tower on the right. Nkw-Haven. — This is decidedly one of the most beau- tiful towns in the United States. The soil is not very good, and the situation is low ; tho city is laid out in squares, with straight and broad streets, and the elevated ground in the neighbourhood renders the approach very fine from almost every direction. It stands at the head of a spa- cious bay, with a light house on the eastern point, a small battery on tho shore, and two Bluffs, called^East and West Rocks, 2 or 3 miles behind the town. A more distant peak is seen between them, which is Mount Carmel. The Long wharf is three quarters of a mile in length. The steamboats stop at the bridge, where Railroad cars for Hartford, and carriages will be found in waiting to take travellers to the centre of the town, which is more than a mile distant. Near the bridge, is the Steamboat Hotel. The streets are regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which is a green surrounded by rows of elms, with three churches and the State House in the middle, and the College build- ings, occupying the western side, presenting a scene pro- bably not equalled by any town of this size in the United States. The abundance of fine trees, the neatness and beauty of the dwellings, the good society of the place, and the distinguished position it holds as a seat of learning, render New- Haven the resort of a great number of stran- gers during the travelling season, and the temporary resi- dence of not a few. There is a Hopkins Grammar School in the town, and a number of Boarding Schools for young ladies. Yale College. This institution, however, is the prin- cipal object whicii will attract the attenlion of the stran- ger. It was founded in 1701, commenced at Killing- worth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a few years permanently fixed in this town. The first building was of wo'/d, and Bti'cets. 'I contummg chamber a ro»)m3 and turo Galiei the splendi finest coUe from the li buildin''- is man delive 500 schola Next no Day, and town. The Mei street. The Nk Medical In partly plan ber of beat one of the The Oi.i green, in ti be seen tv whicii are i gicido jud gome doub The Fai the wharf up from t large and < part of the on the nor is crossed the canal p opens tovvi Rocks J a« passes thi TJews of 1 Tbcre TOUR or NEW-KMGLANT). M^ wof7(l, and stood near tho corner of CoUogo and Chapel* 8ti'oot«. There are now four huililirii^s for studt'iita, each C(»ntaining 32 rooms, a Cha{)cl, wiih a riuh»»ophicrtl chamber and apparatus, arnl a Lyceum, with recitation rooms and the hbrary. In tho rear are the Trumbull Pic* ture Gallery, tho Common'* Hall, in a small building with the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which is tho finest collection of tlifC kind in the United States, purchasedt from the late Colonel Gibbs, of New-York. In another buildinjO' is tho Chemical Laboratory, where rroCi»««9or Silli'' man delivers bis lectures. The institution contains above 500 scholars. Next north of the Collofre ts the house of rrosidont Day, and tho professors have pleasant residences in the town. The Medical Institution is at the north end of College* street. The Nkw Buryino GroWnd is situated opposite the Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of land, partly planted with poplars, and containing a great num- ber of beautiful monuments, of different designs. It \s one of the most beautiful cemeteries in this country. The Old Buryino Ground was in the middle of thd green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are to be seefi two ancient stone monuments, of a small size/ which are aupposed to mark the graves of two of the re- gicido judges, Whalley and Oixwell, although there ia some doubt on the subjpct. (See Stiles^ Judges.) The Farmington Canal, commencing near the head of the wharf in this city, is crossed by the traveller in going up from the steamboat, near the market. The basin i» large and commodiojis; and the canal, passing through a part of the city, and bending round along the outskirts,^ on the north side, intersects several streets, by which it is crossed on handsome bridges. With a gradual ascent^ the canal passes somewhat circnitously up the valley which opens towards Mount Carmel, between East and Wes£ Rocks \ and one of the stage roads to Hartford, which passes through Cheshire and Farmrngton, affords man/ Tiews of it in different places. There are pleasant rides in various directions frorn 13* -'••'' 1 III ^ ' I ^■^ i>i U4 KKW-ItAVIfr. New-Haven, the roads being numerous, and the fnce of the country favourable. The two mountains command extensive views, and though the access is rather fatiguing, the excursion is recommended to those who arc fond of such enterprises. The JuDOEs' Cavb is on the summit of West Rock, about a mile north of the bluff; and the way to it leads near I3eavcr Pond and Pine Rock, (on the south side of which id a small cave,) then between Pine and West llocks. You here turn off the roud to the left, by a path across a brook; and a guide may usually be obtained at a small house just beyond, who can show a horse path to the summit. The cave is formed by the crevices between seven large rocks, apparently thrown together by some convulsion. It ii small, and entirely above ground, with a rude rock, like a cobunn, on each hand. That on the right contains this inscrinlion-^ '*Oppoiitioa to TyranM ii obedience to God,'* to remind the visiter that the place once afforded shelter to Goffe and Whallcy, two of the judges of King Charles the First, who escaped to the colonies and secreted them* selves for some time in this solitary place. They were supplied with food by a family which resided near the foot of the mountain, and a little boy ^as despatched for them every day, who left a basket of provisions on a rock, without knowing what cause he was subijerving. The place commands an extensive view upon the coun" try he low, with a large tract of Long Island, and the Sound. The Manufactory op Muskets is 2 miles north of New-Ha'-en, on the road to Hartford by Meriden, and at the foot o( East Rock. It was established by Mr. Whit- ney, the well-known inventor of the Cotton Jin. Tkc New-Have7i and, Hartford Railroad^ 40 miles long, begins at the steamboat wharf, avoids the city, crosses Quinnepiack river, and passes through the town- ships of North Haven, W^allingford, Meriden, Berlin and Wethersfield. / J^-^ -"'"'y i f >tt .7 iV 1^ ^/r^ U^/> f^Lrrr. V^i 4 U^P] i > /^•j' ^i^ ■> *■*'', • V 1 V 't V ,^ I. .» ♦}?. '. Hi i !j^ ^ Jk4A tt pursui foad," the ven and Hi was oritjin most of th( veller who road, throu those place Beyond ter of islan tions of the resort of C solid 2oId, where herei We shal Connecticu for an acci subjects an wich, the Stoninglon port, Provi Saybro( first settlen It was doi rightful prG been despc enemies, th histories ui plication tc obtain settl land enoug the benefil considered 1635, whei nation to & their own, Boston by Indians, ar Their haste after their ing up to I ^ i «U. tOUK OP NE\V-SNOLA!fD. 145 tt pursues the general course of ** the old colonial foad," the route taken in early time? between New- Ha* ven and Hartford, which v le independent colonies. It was originally an Indian trail. It unfortunately avoids niost of the villages in its neighbourhood, so that the tra- veller who wishes to seu them should take some other road, through either Middletown or Farminglon. (For those places see Index.) Beyond New-Haven in Long Island Sound lies a clus- ter of islands called the Thimbles, famous m the tradi- tions of the neighbouring Connecticut coast, as the ancient resort of Capt. Kidd, a notable pirate, whose treasures of solid gold, it is still believed by some, are concealed some- where herealjouts. We shall here leave Long Island Sound to proceed up Connecticut River, and only refer the reader to the Index for an account of the coast beyotid, and the following subjects and places : New-London, the Thames, Nor- wich, the Mohegans, the Pequods, Saccacus's Fort, Stonington, Mystic Fort, the Narragansett shore, New- port, Providence, &c. Saybrooc, Connecticut. At this place was the first settlement made by Europeans on Connecticut river. It was done at the earnest solicitation of many of the rightful proprietors of the country tin its banks, who had been despoiled of their possessions by their formidable enemies, the Pequods. The River Indians, as our old histories usually denominate the former, twice made ap- plication tc the English at Plymouth and at Boston, to obtain settlers from their native soil, offering to give them land enough, and to pay 200 beaver skins annually for the benefit of their society. Bui the undertaking was considered too hazardous, and it was not until the year 1635, when the Dutch at New- York shewed a determi- nation to seize upon the country, which they claimed as their own, that a small detachment of men was sent from Boston by water to prepare for opening a trade with the Indians, and to build a fort at the mouth of the river. Their haste was soon justified by events: for immediately after their landing, a Dutch vessel entered, and proceed- ing up to Hartford, landed a body of men, who seen cflta- )Li lit- nf " * r. ■;■♦}!. J m CONNECTICUT RIVER. V :a blished themselves in a fort they called Good Hope, on a spot they obtained from Pequod usurpers. The settlement of Saybrook was begun under a grant made to Lord Say nnd Seal, Lord Brook, and others, by George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to this country with his family. The old fort stood near the present fort hill, upon an eminence which has since been destroyed by the waves; and the ground immediately behind it was after* wards occupied by the fields and habitations of th^^ colo- nists. It was expected from the iiret^ that the situation would render the place a great city ; and after the fear of the Indians had subsided, the whole peninsula, which bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out with the greatest regularity into fields of an equal size, except sue h parts as were reserved for the erection of public buildings. Many emigrants w^re once collected in England, and prepared for a voyage to this place. Some persons of high rank and importance were among them, and it is a well-authenticated fact, that Oliver Cromwell had deter- mined to embark in the enterprise, and was once on the very eve of quitting Englan'l for ever, when some un- foreseen occurrence prevented him. The want o( a harbour, and the obstacles presented to a free navigation by a large sand bar at the mouth of the river, have efTectually prevented the expectations of the settlers of Saybrook from being realized; and no remains of their works can now be discovered, except in the rec- tangular forms of the fields, and the cellars of some of their dwetlingA, just beyond the burying ground, the foundation stones of which have since been employed in building the neighbouring fences. One of the largest excavations is said to have been the cellar of the old col- lege building. The soldiers were frequently attacked within a short distance of the fert by the Pequods, but they afterwards ran a palisade across the isthmus which leads from the mam land. Yale College was placed here for a time. CoNNRCTici/T RtvBR. The shorcs present a con- tinued succession of hilly and picturesque country, with few interruptions of level land, from a little above Say- brook as far aa Middlctown. The loughnoss atui locU^f I I nature of tainous tri siderable of rocky i of cultiva the river, ly pictures Essex, paug, is a mit of a h Great Bri came up t by surpris East I mountaino portion of Champion much to t famous for which wer They gave have cease dus Noisei beryls are minerals in Haddai which app( descending orchards, manding h HlOOEN ous along t Middle village, str house lots It is about The Ni west, and divided at every reas above was this place, TOUR OP NEW-ENGLIND. 147 nature of the soil prevent the cultivation of many moun- tainous tracts : yet there are farms enough to give a con- siderable degree of softness to the scenery. The variety of rocky and wooded banks, mingling with little patches of cultivated ground, and the habitations scattered along the river, is very agreeable, and often affords sceiics high- ly picturesque and delightful. Essex, 7 miles from Say brooks formerly (.ailed Petti- paug, is a small village, situated on the ascent and sum- mit of a handsome elevation. During the late war with Great Britain, this place was taken by the enemy, who came up the river in launches, and taking the iahabitants by surprise, occupied the town for a few hours. East Haddam. The landing place hero is rocky, mountainous and wild, and a good specimen of a large portion of the town to which it belongs. The late Gen. Champion's house, built among the rocks above, udds much to the appearance of the place. This region is famous for a kind of earthquakes and subterranean soundst which were formerly common for a short distance round. They gave occasion to many superstitious reports, but have ceased within a few years. They were called Moo- dus Noises, after the Indian name of the place. Large beryls are found in the neighbourhood, and many other minerals interesting to the scientific traveller. Haddam is built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which appears like the remains of an old bank of the river, descending to a little meadow which is covered with orchards, grazing ground, &c. while a range of com- manding hills rise beyond. HiGOENUM is one of the little landing places so numer- ous along the river's course, 2 miles above Haddam. . Middle Haddam, 2 miles* This is a pleasant country village, stretching along a hill covered with orchards and house lots, and backed by higher and wilder eminences* It is about 6 miles below Middletown. The Narrows. Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and flows between two lofty hills, which it has divided at some long past period, before which, there is every reason to believe, the country for a great distance above was covered by a lake. A mile or two eastward of this place; theie is the appearance of an old channel. mm > * . ' ..-■4.. ■■<» 148 MIDDLKTOWN. where the water probably ran, at a great height above its present level. The Lead Mine is a short distance from the southern bank of the river, near two or three old houses. (See a Utile beyond.) Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the southern bank. It was formerly a little fortress belonging to Souheag, un Indian chief, whose dominion extended over the present towns of Middletown, Chatham, and Wetherslield, The large buildings on the hill in Middletown belong to the Wesleyan University. Middletown is beautifully situated on the western bank of the river, where the water is spread out to a con- siderable breadth, and disappears so sudd'^nly at the Nar- rows that from many points of view, it has the appearance of a small lake, with high, sloping, and cultivated shqres. This is a most agreeable residence. The Wesley tm University has a building 150 feet long, 50 broad, and 4 stories high, with rooms for scholars ; a chapel with recitation rooms above, both of stone ; and an eating hall of brick, 120 feet long, with a piazza. The Quarries of Freestone^ on the opposite shore, liave furnished a valuable building mettarial for some years and have been worked to a considerable extent. There are various pleasant rides in this neighbourhood, particularly to two picturesque waterfalls in Middleiield. In the direction of one of them is Laurel Grove, where the road is shaded for near half a mile with those shrubs, which, in the season, are covered with flowers. The en- virons of this place afford other agreeable rides. There are various manufactures carried on here. The Lead. Mine is about two miles below the town on the south shore of the river, accessible only on foot or in a boat, where are several old shafts, which were sunk in the revolutionary war, in a slate rock. The ore is sulphu- ret of lead, in veins of quartz, partly crystallized, and af- fording a few specimens of fluate of lime, and other mine- rals. The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham, at tho foot of Rattle Snake Hill. It is not worth work- ing, at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of peach- bluom of Cobalt may be picko<l up among the rubbitiih. i f TOUR OF iCEW-ENfiLAND. 149 .««■'. Just southerly from it is a very pretty waterfall, about thirty feet high. Wethersfield, 3 miles from Hartford. This place has a fine light soil, on an extensive level, probably once the bottom of a lake since drained by the deepening of the river's channel. It is peculiarly favourable to the cul- ture of onions, which are exported in great quantities to various parts of the country, the West Indies, &c. Wethersfield was the second settlement made by white men in Connecticut. In 1635, three or four men came to this place and spent the winter. The Connecticut State Prison. The situation of this inslitution is healthy, retired, and convenient to the water and the great road. It was completed in 1817. What have heretofore been regarded as the necessary evils of prisons, will here be found greatly reduced ; and, in many respects, even with regard to the prisoners, converted into benefits. Here the Auburn system has been established with some few deviations. The whole is under the direction of Mr. Pilsbury, a man of firmness, judgment and humanity. The men are brought out to their work at signals given by the bell. They lodge in solitary cells, and are not permitted to con- verse together while at work. They take their food in their cells, and when going to and from work or prayers, are obliged to nmrch with the lock step. No blows are allowed to be given by the officers except in self-defence. The Smiths' fires are supplied with Lehigh (Pennsyl- vania) coal for fuel ; and part of the. heat is conducted away in pipes to warm the apartments. The cells are furnished with comfortable beds and bed clothes, and a bible for each. They are ranged in rows, and the keepers can look into them through grated doors ; at the same time the prisoners are not able to converse with each other. The effects of evil communication, so much and r.i banefuUy cherished in our old prisons, are thus effectually prevented. Neither officers nor convicts are allowed to use ardent spirits. Hartford. Inns. The City Hotel, Coffee House, &c. This is the semi-capital of the state, and a place of con- siderable business. m y-'- 150 HARTrOKD. The Charier Oak. In the lower part of the tc-vn, irr the street which runs east from the south church, n the and 'table seat of the Wyllis family, I I ancient were among the early settlers ot Hartford, and have made a conspicuous figure in the history of ilje state, as well as of the town, by supplying the Secretary's office for a long course of time. This place is now owned by Mr. Bulkley, and has undergone considerable changes. The principal object of curiosity here is, howcvtsr, the fir.» old oak, which stands on the street in front. It is said to have been a forest tree before the land was cleared, yet it appears as firm and vigorous as ever. In a hole in its trunk was hidden the charter of the colony, when Sir Edmund Andross sent to demand it in 1687 ; and there it remained for some years. This interesting document is i*ill preserved in the office of the Secretary of the state. The Asylum for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb is about a mile west of the Jown, on Tower Hill. It was the earliest institution of the kind in America. The principal building is large, ornamented with pilas- ters, and surrounded by a garden and pleasant grounds. The house of the superintendent is near by, and the whole enjoys a fine situation with a commanding prospect and a healthy neighbourhood. The number of scholars is about 130. Some of them are supported by a fund belonging to the institution, and others by the states of Massachusetts, New-Hampshire, &c. Similar institutions exist in New- York, Philadelphia, and Kentucky. The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of th© city, and makes a handsome appearance, being a stone building 150 feet long and 50 wide, the wings having three stories, and the main building four. It is capable of containing about fifty patients, and is warmed by flues. The grounds connected with the institution include about seventeen acres. Washington College is situated west of the main street, in the south part of the town. It is an Episcopal insti- tution, and has two stone buildings, one for the students, 150 feet long, four stories high, with accommodations for 36 pupils \ and a chapel^ wUch lias also rooms for recita- tion, the the institu with its gr Little K\\ See also i \^Monte\ joys a chai ward.] tlemarJi leads to N onward. river; nor to New-H to the latti sie; and n( The trav route up wealthy, an by the wav we propose as he pleas( volume is a The fertil ley is almos seen of its 1 learn with g of the cultiv northward. neat and be few miles ; ; versal educa accommodai able, and sc scenery is e^ of interest in from many ] on the east peculiarly fi bank, which and formed i The west€ red ; but as l ROUTE UP COMNECTICUT RIVEH. 151 office tion, the library, &c. Fourteen acres of land belong to the institution, part of which are devoted to the garden with its greenhouse. There is a fine stone bridge across Little River, and a wooden one over the Connecticut. See also the Statehouse, and Young Men's Institute. {^Montevideo, the seat of Daniel Wads worth, Esq. en- joys a charming situation on a mountaia nine miles west- ward.] Remarks to ike Traveller at Hartford. A railroad leads to New-Haven, and steamboats to Springfield and onward. Stagecoaches run on each side of Connecticut river ; northeast, to Boston ; east, to Providence ; south, to New-Haven and New-York, (besides the steamboats to the latter place;) west, to Litchfield and Poughkeep- sie; and northwesft, to Albany. The traveller in New-England is advised to take the route up Connecticut River, which is the most fertile, wealthy, and beautiful tract of the country ; and to return by the way of Boston and Providence. This is the route we propose to pursue ; but the traveller can vary from it as he pleases. He will find such information as this little volume is able to afford him by referring to the index. The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Val- ley is almost proverbial ; and after what the stranger has seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, he will learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the beauty of the cultivation degenerates for several hundred miles northward. The whole country is thickly populated • neat and beautiful villages are met with at intervals of a few miles ; and the general intelligence derived from uni- versal education gives an elevated aspect to society. The accommodations for travellers are generally very comfort- able, and sometimes uncommonly good and elegant ; the scenery is ever new and varying ; many places have traits of interest in their history ; and the communication is easy, from many points of the route, with the principal places on the east and west. Besides all this, the roads are peculiarly fine, for they generally run along the river's bank, which is almost without exception level and pleasant^ and formed of a soil well fitted to the purpose. The western side of the river is generally to be prefer- red ; but as there are good roads on both sides^ and some 14 f «(| i .1:- rl-; ■: -^ ]5f ROUTE OP CONNECTICUT lllVBR, villa^^es and other objects worthy of equal notice on inir eastern shfi'e, and good ferries or bridges are to be met ■with every few miles, it will be agreeable occusionally to cross and re-cross. Those who travel along :he course of the Connecticut twice, would do well to go U|* on onw side and return on the other. This is the most direct route to the W hilo Hills or White Mountains of New- Hampshire. Those who go to Boston will take il>« Worcester railr»)ad at Springfield. Worcester is one of the finest villages \ > New-En- gland. The country around it is rich and variegated, and the dwellings have an air of elegance which does great credit to the taste as well as the wealth of its inhabitants. Brick is extensively used in building. The court house, bank, &c. stand on the principal streetf and cast ef it the county house and the building of the American Historical Society. This is an institution formed for the truW important purpose of preserving every thing relating to the history, traditions, &c. of the country. The State Lunatic Asylum, conducted on the humane system of moral treatment, is highly successful. Number of inmates in the year 1840, 391, of whom 16fl were admitted, 155 discharged, 82 recovered, 29 im- proved, 29 hfrmless, and 15 died. The railroad leads east to Boston, and west to Spring- fiald, meeting that to Norwich. The Blackstonp Canal leads to Providence. Watchusett Hills, 16 miles W. N. W. of Worcester, and 52 W. by N. of Boston, are estimated at nearly 3C0O feet above the sea, and ascended by an easy path. The spectator looks down on a surrounding scene of wooded mountains, below which are ponds and farms, and a view over cultivated and inhabited regions. Route up Connecticut River, Leaving Hartford in the steamboat for Springfield. [East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has e sandy soil, but the street as well as that of East Windsor, next north of it, is shaded with rows of fine elms. The roud crosses Podunk Brook by a small bridge, about four miles from Kartford, on the north bank of which, on the left h-nd, was onoe the fort of the powerful tribe of Podunk Indians, who had their settlements on this winding stream, anc\ I some of the the soil.! Winds 01 arter the h\ Dutch garri it, expectin, place thev returned wi East VV river, has n Prosbyteria The seat stands in \ miles abov( and surroun Enfield SlJFFIELE the river, ai vicinity, wh pany. The and beautifu both sides, wards the 1 elegant. Svffield street is a n Springfi of a high 1 buildings, tl ants, and tl^ This establ commands « shops for rai &c. are sur men require on the busiri muskets are factories on various and The town trees ; and was origina I ROUTE VV CONNECTICUT RIVER. na feme of their broken implemonts aro occasionally found in the soil."! Windsor was settled as early as 1035. A few months otter the building of the fort, (probably a blockhouse,) the Dutch garrison at Hartford made a secret march against it, expectin«5 ^^ ^^^^- ^^ hy surprise ; but on arriving at tho place they found reason to give up their enterprise, and returned without firina: a jrun. East Windsor, on the opposite side of Connecticut river, has a commnnding situation, and is the site of a I'rosbyterian Theolog 'al Seminary. The seat of the late Chief Justice Oliver Ellsworth Btands in Windsor, on the cast side of the street, nine miles above Hartford. It is distinguished by columns, and surrounded by trees. He was born in a house opposite. Enfield. A Canal of 6 miles passes the falls. SiJFFiELD is a very pleasant town about a mile west of the I'iver, and has a good inn, and a mineral spring in iis vicinity, which has been the resort of considerable com- pany. The village jjtreet runs along the ridge of a long and beautiful hill, with neat houses and white fences on both sides, and the home lots sloping east and west to- wards the low grouml. Some of tho houses are large and elegant. Suffield Springs. About a mile southwest of the street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphureous qualities. Springfield is a flourishing town, standing at the foot of a high hill, the side of which is ornamented with fine buildings, the residences of some of the wealthier inhabit- ants, and the top occupied by the United States Armory. This establishment occupies a large space of ground, and commands a fine view. The buildings containing the work- shops for manufacturing small urms, the arsenal, barracks, &c. are surrounded by a high wall. The number of work- men required, which is about 260, has a favourable effect on the business and prosperity of the place. About 13000 muskets are made here annually, or 60 a day. The manu- factories on Mill River, a little south of the armory, are various and well worthy of observation. The town is ornamented with many fine elms and other trees ; and there are two very handsome churches. It was originally considered within the limits of Connecticut -> ■ •'' 'f.' , 154 FKMALB SEMINARY. colony, but at ' Tlh incorporated with Mu8sar,hus»»tts. A tribo of Intliai vcd for some years on Kort Hill ; but being won over tt» . .ing Philip's party, in 1675, they as- sumed a hostile air, fired upon some of the inhabitants who were going to their fort, and burnt a part of the town. In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, he attacked the armory, at tb<3 head of a strong party of undisciplined men. General Shepard, whohad command at the place, attempted to dissuade them from their attempt, and finally drove them off by firing twice. The first shut, over their heads, dis- persed the raw troops, and the second drove off the re- mainder, who, being about two hundred revolutionary sol- diers, did not desist until they had lost a few of their men. This was the first check the insurrection received, which "was put down without much subsequent trouble. Wilbraham, 7 or 8 miles west from Springfield, con- tains a Weslfiyan Academy. West Springfield has a fine street, shaded with large elms* and containing some handsomg houses. It is 26 miltjs from Hartford, and about 17 miles from Northamp- ton. There is a fine view from the road on the brow of a hill a little north of the town, near a church, which overlooks the river and an extent of country on each side, with Mounts Tom and Holyoke in front. South Hadley Falls. The village and locks are on the east side of the river. The whole fall of the river at South Hadley is 52 feet, but at the lower falls only 32. There is a canal 2\ miles long on the east side of the river, cut through a slate rock for a considerable distance, and in some places very deep. The dam is 3 feet high. There are five locks near the tavern, and one above. There is a ferry here, which is safe, but the water runs very swiftly. South Hadley. The Mount Holyoke Female Semi- nary, gives a practical domestic education with intellec- tual instruction. For several miles before reaching Mount Tom, the road runs along the bank of the liver. The river makes an abrupt turn some miles above, running between Mount Tom on the south and Mount Holyoke on the north ; and when the scene opens again, it discl jses a charming and I f^Xtcn&ive ^ank, am >vater wa This plrtjr sive and I NorUu plain, a n sort for tr New-]!:ngi country, i mands a ' but some also orna of congidi farms. Round town. On the ( the Stoddii great talen King-3treei the house dent Edwa Brainerd d south of t Strong. The Lee miles from Mount and there i way up. "V Souikeai generally distance, pt ly below, under the South Hadl field. The are two ver and West I Northeaa »hire. V, H'^VTE UP CONNECTICUT niVEH. 155 are on le road kefl an Mount and ig antl h «Xlcn&ive plain, formad of tho moadows on tho river'sj f»ank, and evidently once tho site of a large lake, when tho ■water was restrained by the barrier betwc^en the mountain:*. This plain U one of the riclu'^t, and by far the most exteu'- sivo and beautiful on the river. Northampton is situated at tho western side of iho plain, a mile from the river, and is a favourite ])lace of re- sort for trnveliert* ; as it is one of the most beautiful of tho New-Kngland villages, and is surrounded by a charming country, and lies near to Mount Ilolyokc, which com- mands a view of the whole. The stn^ets are irregular, hut some of them shady and delightful in summer, being also ornamented with many neat houses. It is a place of considerable business ; and the soil makes valuable farms. Round Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of the town. On the eastern declivity of the hill stands the house of tho Stoddard family, an ancestor of which was a man of great talents and influence in this part of the country. In King-street, towards the northeast from that spot, stood the house in which President Edwards, Sen. lived, Presi- dent Edwards, Jun. and Dr. Dwight were bos and David Brainerd died. On the east side of the mair street, just south of the brook, is tho house of the late Governor Strong. The Lead Mine. In Southampton, at the distance of 8 miles from this place, is a lead mine. Mount Holyoke. — The height is said to be 8G0 feet ; and there is a good carriage road the greater part of tho way up. View from the top : Southeast. The country is undulating, and the soil generally poor; yet seven.! villages are discovered at a distance, particularly Sotith t.adley, which lies immediate- ly below. Southwardly is seen Connecticut river, retiring under tho shade of MoiUnt Tom, whitened below by the South Hadley Falls ; beyond which is the hill at Spring- field. The river makes several turns, and on the horizon are two very distant peaks, which are supposed to be East and West Rocks at New-Haven, about 70 miles distant. Northeait is 9een Monadnoc Mountain, in New-Hamp- shire. 14* f... ■IT "... . . ./♦.' ■t ;, It4 !«(^ " u ir>6 TIKW rnoM MOUlfT HOLYOKE. Sorthy you lookup the charming valley of the Connecti- cut; hoifliTcd by distant runges of liilis and mountfiins, varied by a few iriolated peaks, covered with the richest coat of vegetation, and scattered with villages and innu- merable farm hou.ses. The river makes a beautiful serpi'n- tino course ; from where it first appears at the foot of Su- gar Loaf Mountain, and Mount Toby, until it reaches the village of Iladley, which lies in full view, and then taking a bold sweep to the west, and flowing 4^ miles, it returns to the end of that village, only a mile distant from where it first meets it. The whole peninsula is rich and fertile, and covered with cultivated fields of wheat, corn, grass, &.C. without being disfigured by fences, according to the custom prevalent hereabouts ', and is the richest sight upon the river, particularly when viewed in connexion with the Hcene immediately below, where the river flows on, almost imder our feet, and the western shore presents the exten- sive Northampton Meadows, a mile wide. Following the current with the eye, in the West-soulh-west, it forms a still more remorkable penin- sula, although one of inferior size : the Hockanum Bendf being a turn measuring 34 miles in circuit, while the isth- mus was only 4G rods across, or 150 yards. This has been cut through by a flood. In the compass of this view, from the north to the west and south, nuniorous village spire» are seen, with level fields, orchards, and gardens, almost •without number ; and the whole scene is bounded with mountainous ridges. Northampton is seen about west northwest, with Round Hill; and towards the right, the top of Saddle Mountain, in the distance. There are also others still further north, particularly Haystack and Bare Mountain. More than 30 church steeples may be counted here by taking advantage of different kinds of weather. In point of history, that part of the Connecticut Valley immediately under the eye, belongs to the third division of settlements, calling Plymouth and Massachusetta Bay the first ; Windsor, Hartford, Wcthersfield, &c. the se- cond. Northampton, Hadloy,and Hatfield, were settled in 1653, and remained the frontier posts in this direction till after Philip's war, during which they suffered severely from constant alarms,, and the losa of inhabitants, Thr {< I loTinectf )UiitHin(i| 3 ric\ie8t ncl innu- i Hcrpi'n- ot of Sii- v:he9 the on taking it returns im wlicre 1(1 fertile, rn, grass, ing to the iight upon I with the )n, almost the exten- owing the ible penin- urn Bend, le the isth- is has oecn view, from luge 9pire» ns, almost nded with est, with of Saddle thers still Vlountain. A hereby cut Valley d division iisetla Bay C. the 66- ere settled s direction d severely Indians built, h{ tance ol were su excited ferent ti edly. I Indians Tom, an were cbi signatina brought I scalped. Hadlej ants we hands, wl appearan( to repel t he was, o that he v was aecre whom w( Haven. discovere( near the by one of HATFIti river, is on the ne fine, and ance of t agricultur fatted. Amher Had ley ; Amher in New-E ings is pie view, part with mour »een in di ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVEK« 157 MM Indians who had sold the lands on which the towns were built, had each a spot assigned them within a short dis- tance of the palisades with which the new settlements were surrounded, and lived in peace and good faith until excited by Philip; after which all the towns were at dif- ferent times attacked by them, and some of them repeat- edly. During the French wars, on May 13th, 1704, the Indians fell upon a little settlement at the foot of Mount Tom, and killed 20 persons, more than half of whom were children ; and a tradition states, though without de- signating ihe precise time, that a captive woman was once brought to the top of the mountain where we stand, and scalped. Hadley was attacked by the Indians while the inhabit- ants were at church, and was near falling into their hands, when a stranger, a venerable old man, made his appearance, and by his active resistance, encouraged them to repel the enemy. It was not known at the time who he was, or whither he went ; but there is now little doubt that he was Goffe, one of King Charles's judges, who was secreted for a length of time 'n this town, and of whom we have already had occasion to spoak at New- Haven. The remains of his coffin, it is believed, were discovered a few years since, m the cellar wall of a house near the present academy, which was formerly inhabited by one of his friends. Hatfield, one mile further, on the west side of the river, is much devoted to the wintering of cattle raised on the neighbourmg hilly country. The grass is very fine, and the barns are large ; which, with the appear- ance of the houses, give the place an air of substantiaj agricultural wealth. The cattle are bought, stabled, and fatted. Amherst is situated on elevated ground, 5 miles frora Hadley ; and off the river towards the northeast. Amherst College ranks among the most respectable ifi New-England. The situation occupied by the build- ings is pleasant, commanding a rich, extensive and varied view, partly over the meadows of Connecticut River, with mountains particularly mentioned a few pages back. Been in different directions. The retii .d situation ia !^ n > I •>■, 4'L-: ' nn r>£EIlPlEliO» highly favourable to study and good order, as its elevation and pure air arc conducive to health. The number of Btudents in 1840 was about 250. The president, Dr. Humphries, is also professor of menial and moral Philo* Bophy and Divinity. There are six other professors, and a teacher of French and Spanish, a teacher of mathema' tics, and a tutor of Latin and Greek. The SuoAR Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical form, rising in front as we proceed. Deerficld lies north of it about 3 miles ; and the way by which we approach it, lies nearly along the old road which led thither through the wilderness, in 1675, when it was deserted by the settlers; and Capt. Lothrop was despatched, with a body of 80 soldiers and wagoners, to bring off the grain. At the foot of this mountain is the small village of Bloody Brook, and near the spot where a bridge crosses the stream, Capt. Lothrop was ambushed by about 800 Indians. The place was then a marshy piece of ground ; and some traces of the road, which was formed of logb, are still to be seen, running through the fields without crossing at the bridge. The conwy halted at this place; and the soldiers were generally engaged in gathering grapes from the vines which ran on the trees, having left their muskets on the ground, when the Indians fired upon them. Capt. Lo- throp gave orders that the men should disperse, and fire from behind the trees ; but they were all cut oflf except 8 or 10, This massacre was one of the most calamitous which ever occurred in New England, taken into view with the small number of inhabitants at the time : as the company consisted of young men, from the principal fa- milies in the eastern towns. That part of the meadow we pass through in approach- ing Dnerfield was the scene of several skirmishes with the Indians at different times, as the place was a fron- tier for many years, although it was twicr lurned and de- serted. Deerfield. In 1704, which v^ras the period of its last destruction, a large body of Indians, led on by a few Frenchmen from Canada, came upon the town before daylight. It was winter, and the snow crust was strong enough to bear them ; they had secreted themselves on a * hill nortl houses V captives, of the ho church. A hou men; anc was take Most of t Mr. W. I chief, and Indians at Some r rear of th appearanc have sinci covered. East fro the hill, oi tection of Greenf a road fror picturesqu [TURN£ three mile driven froi English se Capt. Chu with some held a pos river. H( ner. Tho their capti asleep, so panic, and such haste, ried over t v':;nemies w from the is about ten dug up nea 'I ! '■'" f ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 159 its last a few before strong Ires on a hill northwest from Deerfield, and sent in a scout. The houses were all entered but one, the inhabitants made captives, and all, except a few, taken off to Canada. One of the houses is standing at this day, a little north of the church. A house next this was valiantly defended by seven men; and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister, was taken, and he and his family carried to Canada. Most of the people were ransomed ; but a daughter of Mr. W. became attached to the savage life, married a chief, and left children. Mr. Williams, missionary to the Indians at Green Bay, was one of her descendants. Some marks of the old picquet may be traced in the rear of the house, which is supposed to present the same appearance as in old time, excepting that the kitchen, &c. have since been built, and the front and rear have been covered. There is an academy in this town. East from this place are several spurs projecting from the hill, on one of which was formerly a fort, for the pro- tection of the Deerfield Indians against the Mohawks. Greenfield, 3 miles. Here the stagecoach passes on a road from Boston to Albany. The country west is highly picturesque. [Turner's Falls are on Connecticut river, two or three miles east from Greenfield. Philip, having been driven from the seacoast and the neighbourliood of the English settlements, in 1676, by the active operations of Capt. Church, Capt. Moseley, Capt. Wheeler, &c. retired with some of his followers to the Northfield Indians, who held a position on a sandy hill, on the north bank of the river. Here he was attacked in the night by Capt. Tur- ner. Tho Indians had held a feast that night, as some of their captives afterwards reported, and were generally asleep, so that the attack of the white men gave them a panic, and they fled to their boats, which tht y launched in such haste, that many forgot their paddles, and were car- ried over the falls. The rest, however, rallied before their (enemies were out of their reach, and being joined by some from the island below the falls, pursued and harassed them about ten miles, to Deerfield. Bones are occasionally dug up near the spot, and a few years ago the remains of M-^ : • ■ > .. .« . ■? ■ . 'it-.--* «i.;'"^' •!■• r ■ • . ^^■A^^y 1 1), II '■ w- > I<oO bellows' falls. an old mucket, a few silver coins, Sec. were discovered &mon^ the rocks. This was the last and mpst severe blow Philip received before he returned to his native country in Rhode Island, where he soon after terminated his dang^erous life, and the war, which brought so many calamities upon New-England. The Canal. A dam of great height is built at the falls, to supply a canal, which extends two or three miles for boats and rafts. Some mills are also established on the river's bank. The fall is divided by two rude rocks, be- tween which the water rushes in separate cataracts ; and the scenery below is wild, and not a little imposing. There is, however, no inn nearer than Greenfield. Vernon. Within the limits of this township, which i-» the first in Vermont, was once Fort Dummer, one of a chain of forts, built for the protection of the country against the Canadian Indians. The place for some years was known on the river, by the name of Number One, be- ing the first of four townships. Passing- through a pretty village, with several mills, after a few miles, we approach Battleborough, south of which, east of the road, is a quarry, which furnishes a large quantity of slate ; where may be seen the mode of quarrying, splitting, shaping, and packing it for transpor- tation. Brattleborough is a very pleasant village, situated on an elevated plain above the river, which, since the draining of the old lake in this place, has made Lwo or three suc- cessive arches north of the town, as it has gradually low- ered its channel to the present level. At the bridge, over a small stream, are several manufactories; and in the village is a large and comtbrtable stage /ouse, whence coaches go to Boston, as well as west, north, and south. Westminster. This is on a fine, extensive level ; and on the high land, on the opposite side of the river, is Walpole. Connecticut River being the dividing line between the two adjacent states, Walpole is in New- Hampshire. The situation is very commanding, and the summit of the hill, above the village, affords a view of un- usual extent and beauty. Bellows' Falls. The height of this fall is incon- siderable, rounded I on the ea mented b houses an the falls, of the mc The ro but are n places ho two or thr feet deep, stones by largement of the roc of Indian below the at sculptui and from ( have suffer seem as if cimens of sents consi Charle lageg in N€ with trees, This w£ the defenc rising grou runs. It V 1747, agai though rep persisted ir themselves succeeded sword for Jarvis's of the rive large bulk pally of br The roa( hills appro Route up conkecticut river. U. ivered :eived sland, id the gland. 3 falls, les for on the ks, be- s ; and There hich i«» le of II country e years »ne, be- l mills, outh of ishes a node of •anspor- lated on Iraining ree suc- lly low- bridge, and in whence south, el ', and is ing lir.9 New- and the w of un- 3 incon* n »<lderabliB, but it is on the whole a striking object; sur* rounded by rocky banks, and having an abrupt mountain on the eastern side. The place has also been much orna-* mented by art : for, besides the village, with its neat white houses and handsome church, a canal has been dug round the falls, a bridge thrown over them, and the rugged side of the mountain decorated with a handsome country seat. The rocks are of the most lirm and solid grny granite^ but are much cut by the force of the current. In some places holes have been bored into them perpendicularly, two or three feet in diameter, and twelve or even eighteen feet deep. This is done by the motion given to loose stones by the eddies of the stream, and the gradual en- largement of the boro sometimes breaks off great masses of the rock. These falls were once the favourite resort of Indians during the fishing season. On the rock just below the bridge, are some remains of their rude attempts at sculpture^ which represent the form of human faces ; and from one on the end of the Rtone, which appears to have suffered less from the attrition of the floods it would seem as if they might once have been more finished spe- cimens of sculpture than they now appear, as that pre- sents considerable prominency and beauty of e^ecution.|ii Charlestown, This is one of the prettiest little vil- lages in New-England : havin^ a wide street, partly shaded with trees, and lined with neat houses. This was called township No. 4. The fort, built for the defence of the place in 1743, stood on the gently rising ground a little south of the church, where the street runs. It was most gallantly defended by Capt. Stevens, in 1747, against a large number of French and Indians : al- though repeatedly called upon to surrender, the garrison persisted in the defence, digging into the ground to shelter themselves from the enemy's fire, and, after several days, succeeded in driving them away. Captain S. received a sword for his bravery. Jarvis's Farm at Wethersfield Bow, on the west side of the river, is very extensive, and contains a number of large buildings for dwellingsf barns, stables, &c. princi- pally of brick. The road beyond affords some romantic scenes. Tli© hills approach the river very nearly, and several view* ;'r "■■■ ^ '•'■**.*^.'' j«:.i-: / '1 ROYALTON* h are cauc^ht between them, of the mountain behind Wind- r5or, wliicli is about 2,000 feet in height, and divided into ?;hree peaks, whence, it is said, it derived the name o'' Ascutney, which, in the Indian language, means Three Brothers. Windsor is a fine and flourishing town, in a verv pic- turesque situation, particularly when viewed from the opposite side of the river 5 and contains a good stagehouse, a number of stores, some elegant houses, two or three handsome churches, and the State Prison. Mount Ascutney. A great part of the way up this mountain a road has been cut, and the traveller will be richly rewarded for the labour of the ascent. The Gulf Road. Those who are going westward from this part of the river, are counselled to take the Gulf Road to Burlington, on Lake Champlain, to which a stagecoach runs. Although the route is through the chain of the Green Mountains, the way is remarkably smooth and easy, following the courses of the White and Onion Rivers, which have cut deep channels through the rocks. You have, however, first to go sixteen miles along the western bank of the Connecticut to ^#Vhite River. Here great quantities of lumber are brought down, sawed on the stream, and sent by the Con- necticut in rafts to the country below. Dartmouth Col- lege, at Hanover, is five miles north, and those who are going to the White Mountains, vt'il) o course pursue that route ; (see p. 164 ;) but the following deviation is made for those who are going to Lake Champlain. The road up the White River lies along the north bank, and passes through several beautiful and flourish- ing villages. This was one of the courses formerly chosen by the Indians of the north in their commerce with those on the borders of that river, before the arrival of Euro- peans ; and, with the exception of a short portage, between the White and Onion Rivers, they brought their furs from Canada, by water. During the Indian and French wars, this route was frequently used for more hostile purposes ; and captives were taken frotn these settlements so late as the revolutionary war. The scenery is interesting and vax-ious all along the route. Roy ALTON, a pretty village. This place was burnt, ilOtJTE Up CONWECtlCUT RirEii. m Oct. 16th, 1781, by 300 men, principally Indians, who came down from Canada. They killed two men and took away six prisoners to Monircal. Randolph is considered one of the most beautiful towns in Vermont, and a stagecoach likewise passes that way. Gulf. The entrance of this remarkable passage from the east, is under the brow of an abrupt mountain, where a branch of White River Hows along by the road in a gentle current. The Gulf road extends six miles, and the ground is so level that it has been proposed to make it the course of a canal. On the height of land is a pond, from which flows a stream into the valley. Part of it joins the White River, and part the Onion River. MoNTPELiEli is the capital of Vermont, and a very pretty town. It contains the State House, a Court House, an Academyt and other public buildings * From Montpelier to Burlington, the road pursues the course of Onion River nearly the whole distance, and affords a succession of hilly and mountainous scenery, such as is characteristic of the state. On the rocd from Montpelier are two remarkable waterfalls, in the Onion River* They are so near the * HistoRY or THE STATE.-1-The first discovery of Vormout, Wad mad^ in 1609, by Samuel Champlain, who, after establishing a colony at Quebec, proceeding up the rivers St. Lawrence and Sorel, explored and gave his own name to the lake which washes the western part of the state. In 1724, the government of Massa- chusetts erected Fort Dummer, in the town of Brattleborough, on Connecticut river. The first settlement in the western part of the state was commenced by the French in 1731, in the town of Addi- son, and at the same time they erected a fort at Crown Point. The government of New-Hampshire liegan to make grants of townships within the present limits of Vermont in 174D, ut which time the settlement of Bennington was commenced, aud at the Same time a violent controversy ensued between the Nev»'-Hamp- shiro grants, and the province of New- York. The first conven- tion of the state met at Dorset, in 1776, and the first constitution was adopted by a convention assembled at Windsor in July, 1777, but the organization of the government did not take place until March, 1778. The difficulties between Vermont and New-York were amicably FRttled in 1 790, and the next year she wu admitted jnto the con- federacy of tbe states. 15 r t t.:, ■■*u h V ft. i 1 f!<, ^( ini DARTMOUTH COLLEGE. » • road tlmt thoy will be hotird in passing-, and seen by tffk tnp: a ftnv stops. JiuRLiNGTON is a large and beautiful town, and en- joys one of the fmest situations on Lake Champlain. The ridge of tl.\o hill, on the declivity of which it is built, commands an extensive viev/ upon the lake, with the numerou? mountains which border its western shores, and a large expanse of water on the right and left. Im- mediately below is the bay, bounded by high land: and the elegant dwellings and beautifid gardens of the more wealthy inhabitants, ornament the foreground. The Steamboats stop here on their way to Whitehall and St. John's (the nmte to Montreal;) and the traveller is referred to pages 107 and 103, 99, and 137 for the oljects on the lake in those directions. [^Returning to the Con- necticut river.'] Hanover. This village, 21 miles above Windsor, is remarkable as the seat of Dartmouth College, an institu- tion which holds a very respectable rank for learning and influence, the number of its pupils, and the ability of its officers. It was founded for the education of Indians, and was named after William, Earl of Dartmouth. It posses* ses a large tract of land, v.hich was long unproductive ; and the college building, which is large and inhabited by the students, has a fine aspect. Several of the houses about the green are very neat, and the ground bein^ elevat- ed, the place is very pleasant. The Medical Institution, is a brick building, a little north from the square. The road between Hanover and Haverhill, 18 miles, presents few objects of much interest; the country not being thickly populated, and no villages intervening, ex- cept one, which has several very neat houses. The Strafford Copperas Works are nine miles north of Norwich. One of the buildings is 2G7 feet long. The ore is pyrites, taken from a stratum in a hill, overlaid by a crust of a ferruginous earth containing petrified leaves, »^c. The ore is broken and thrown into heaps, for about two months, when it gradually undergoes a chemical change, emitting a spontaneous fire ^uA fumes of sulphur. It is then leached in tubs, and the water, after boilingi yields crystals of copperaa, of a rhombic form and a beau- I I tiful greei 10,000 tor Havkki the northe where ther and overloi scenery is several otl duction tc pro aching On the ( a Sulphur for baths. The Gr acres, lyinj and in the able ; but meadow, r From B roads, one Breton W( bourn and Such is little more in many p the logs V the remair rect and n through Lj view of tl mountains amphitheai Franco mountains, extent. It about half hillock— 2( The Ha posed for a not recorni Washingto iurn3 off fi ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 1C5 by tak and on- LTTiplain. is built, ath the ahoros, ft. Im- nd: and he moro Whitehall traveller e ol.jects 'he Cou' ndsor, is 1 institu- ning and tv of it3 ians, and t posses* :)ductive ; abited by houses 1^ elevat- , a little 8 miles, mtry not ining, ex- 8 north of The ore aid by a leaves, for about chemical sulphur. • boiling, d a beau- tiful green colour. The manufactories produce about 10,000 tons annually. Haverhill. There are three villages in this town, but the northern one is where the Boston road comes in, and where there are two good inns. The situation is elevated and overlooks the meadows for some distance. The distant scenery is here very fine, as Moosehillock Mountam and several others are in plain view, and serve as an intro- duction to the White Mountains, which we are ap- proaching. On the opposite side of the river is Piermont, where is a Sulphur Spring of some local celebrity, with a building* for baths. The Great Ox-bow is a meadow containing about 500 acres, lying in the town of Piermont on the western bank, and in the form of a crescent. The soil is fine and valu- able ; but from the comparatively small extent of the meadow, it cannot be compared with that of Hadley. From Bath to the White Mountains, there are two roads, one of which turns off through Lisbon, Bethlehem, Breton Woods, Nash and Sawyer's Patent, and Shad- bourn and Hart's Patent. \_See Index.'] Such is the wildness of the country, that we can do little more than enumerate the places. The road is new, in many places rocky, and in others rough, on account of the logs which have been laid down to support it, and the remains of the stumps of trees. But it is more di- rect and much less mountainous, than that which passes through Lancaster. It does not however afford that fine view of the Connecticut Valley, nor of the ranges of mountains which there surround it, like a magnificent amphitheatre. Franconia. This is a secluded village among the mountains, where iron is manufactured to a considerable extent. It is at the foot of Haystack Mountain, which is about half way between Mount Washington and Moose- hillock — 20 miles from each. The Haystack may be ascended by any traveller dis- posed for arduous enterprises of this description : but it is not recommended in preference to the ascent of Mount Washington, which is rather less difficult. A foot path turns off from the road about 6 miles from Franconia, ■iM t ' I IGG KfiW'LONDON. which conducts to the summit, 3 miles. The first two miles are through thick hemh)ck3, hacmetac, .spruce, iLc. then ^ mile stunted trceo, and the rest bare rocka. Near the spot where the path begins is a remarkable Lusua Natura, formed by a rock on the side of a mountain which bears a resem))lanco to the human face in profile. The forest shrubbery extends to the margin of the bare rocks much in the proportion of the bust of a man. It is called the ** Old Man of the Mountain.'''' The preci- pice is 600 or 1000 feet high, and rises from the side of a pond, which is a source of the Pemigewasset river. The neighbouring region is so mountainous, that more than tifty peaks, it is said, may be counted from the top of tlio Haystack. Indeed the view from that eminen-.-e embraces nothing but mountains, with here and there a cleared spot on the Plymouth road, and numerous marks of slides or avalanches made by the inundation in 18'26. Lancaster is a very pleasant town, and the last on the river which merits that name. The surrounding moun- tains form a noble scene, superior to every other of this nature along its course. The Canada line is only 40 miles north, and lies along the Pomicotiunt. The following are the towns : North- umberland, Stratford, Columbia, Colebrook, and, the last stage, Stewartstown. [Having now completed the route up Connecticut River, we return to Long Island Sound. For other routes and places, see Index.] NEW-LONDON, CONNECTICUT. Entering New-London Harbour, (in a New-York steam- boat,) on the left is the Light House. Fort Trumbull occupies a point beyond, and is garri- soned by the United States. It was taken in the revolu- tionary war, as well as the town, and Fort Griswold, which stands on the high hill opposite. Looking up the River Thames, the prospect is handsome, the banks be- ing high and cultivated, and backed by Horton's Hill several miles distant, in the Mohegan country. Steamboats touch here daily for New-York and Nor» wich. At Norwich you take the railroad. See p, 169. The Ha te8!*il)le, «;n hear the O land, and I to the whni New-Loi number of pally at th< appearance some, and the hill. There is Norwich, ( teresting, s ever, aflord neat and in Fort Gr by a fevV co lution, whei tion of the a British fu; men on eac Fort Trumt manded the wards Fort manded a si But befo fort, and ga teers from advanced u but the Am beating off when resist; enemy had the spot; " and Major ] ever, a mass the deepest men being t lies. Man) barbarous it the hill just ROfTK FROM NEW- YORK TO COSTON'. JC7 The Harhonr of NVw-London id nno nf ilio mojit ac* Ue8sil)l(», snt'L> unci ctumiiodioiis in tlio United Statos, lyinjy hear the Occun and the ?>(nuid, almost surrniindrd l)y hi^h land, and having vvairr cnouf^h for nhip.-* of war (|nii«^ up to the wharvOi*, with a line sandy hultoni near the shores. New-London is the third town in Connecticut for the number of inhabitants. It is situated irreirulnrly, princi" pally at the foot of a hill facing: the east, and wears an appearance of decline ; but sotuo of th(» houses are hand- some, and there are several line «ituation3 near the top of the hill. There is a road hence to Providence, and another from Norwich, (13 miles up the Thames,) both equally unin- teresting, and nearly of eqtuil lei^g^lh. The river, how- ever, afllbrds some very pretty scenes, and Norwich is a neat and interesting town. Fort Gri.swold, opposite New-London, was garrisoned by a few continental troops in the year 1781, in the revo- lution, when Benedict Arnold, after his treacherous deser- tion of the American cause, appeared f)ft' the harbour with a British force on the 6th of September; and landing 800 men on each point of the harbour, marched up and took Fort Trumbull, and burnt the town. Col. Eyre, who com- manded the troops on the eastern shore, proceeded to- wards Fort Griswold, and sending in a flag of truce, de- manded a surrender. But before this time. Col. Ledyard had entered the fort, and garrisoned it with 120 men, chiefly militia volun- teers from the neighbourhood. The British troops had advanced under cover of a wood, and invested the fort ; but the Americans defended themselves for some time, beating off their enemies once, and finally surrendered, when resistance would have been entirely useless. The enemy had lost 41 officers and men, who were buried near the spot; with Col. Eyre, the commander, wounded, and Major Montgomery killed. After the surrender, how- ever, a massacre of the prisoners look place, which ca«t the deepest disgrace on the expedition : 70 officers and men being the victims, most of whom were heads of fami- lies. Many of the wounded were also treated in a most barbarous manner, being placed in a cart, and rolled down the hill just south of the present road to the fort. The 15* 1 •-■:■ :;-L m ins STOKINQTON. event liaa been conimomorated by building by subscription a inorniment on tho spot. Fort Hill is a coiniimmliiiff cininoMcc, nhout 4 milc!* cast from N. London, and dorivo.s its name from Rpequod fort, which formerly occupied its summit. Tho road crosses it near tho southern limit of the fort, and a small church stands a quarter of a milo above, within tho exien* Bive space cice enclosed by thiit palisaded work. It was tho great fortress of the terrible Pequod nation, which makes a very conspicuous fiL-^ure in the early history of tVie eastern colonies* They had fou^^it their way frt)m tho interior, and seated themselves in tho present limits of Groton, where the fcvv poor remains of their descendants Btill are found. On tho arrival of tho English, they had extended their conquests a considerable distance up Con" necticut river, and the eastern and western Nehantics on the coast were subject to them. In consequence of the murders they had committed, and the attack with which they threatened the infant set- tlements at Hartford, Windsor, and Wetliersfield, the inhabitants formed an expedition in the spring of 1637, led by Capt. Mason, attacked their other fort on the Mystic, burnt it, and killed about 600 persons : after which the nation fled from their country ; and having suf- fered another terrible slaughter m the owamp at Fairfield, (see that place,) were reduced to slavery, and ceased from that time to be au object of terror. This hill commands an extensive and delightful view, being almost entirely clear of obstructions, and being supe- rior in height to the neighbouring hills. A considerable extent of Long Island and the Sound are overlooked from the summit, with various islands, bays, and points on the Connecticut coast. At the time of the burning of Mystic Fort, it was occupied by the chief Sachem, Sassacus, who hastened to the relief of his subjects, but arrived too late to render them any assistance. On his return here, he burnt tho weekwams and palisadoes, and immediately fled for refuge to the Mohawks, by whom he was beheaded. Mystic, 7^ miles. Stonington. Steamboats go daily to New-York. The Providence and Stonington Railroad^ 47 miles, leaves the shore of J^ong Island Sound at the steamboat whaif in Stonington Uivcr into man's i'on and across ton and P millions '« miles near 480. On dcsr Porter's R road on tht Capt. Ma> of May 2(3 «e3sful attu the top of HOPKIN' TUEVILLE, StcamJ\ A little a the east sid have landn( The Moheg Horton^s 1 something ( ing position ing the la United Sta moored hei drawn up b above the 1 Trauin( some little derived its here betwe the Sachen descent, bu English bt donee wets ROUTE FROM NE\V-YoRK TO ROSTOlf. m Stonington, passet tlirough the town, rrossoa Pauraturt River into Rhode iHlaiKl, up Chnrliv- River V^illoy to Slier- mtin's I'ond in South Kin^ston^ north to Kiist Greenwich^ tind across a steam f«Mry to Providctico, to meet tlie Bos- ton and Providence Railroad. Finished in 18:57 for two millions; summit 302 feet, maximum j^rado 33 feet, 14 milea nearly level, minimum radius 1037 foot, in one spot 480. On dcscendin«^ the liill which leads into this villaco* Porter's Rock, 30 or 40 feet hi;zh, is seen a little off the road on the ric^ht hand. Under the chelter of it, it is said^ Capt. Mason encamped with his little army on the night of May 26, 1637, old style, a few hours hefore his suc- «c3sfid attack on the second Pequod fort, which was on the top of a hill ahout two miles south of this place. Hoi'KiNToN, 11 miles; West Gukenwich, 15; Cew TiiEViLLE, 2; Pkovidknce, 11. {8 ce Index.) THE RIVER THAMES. Steamboat Route from Neto-London to Noridick, A little above New-London, there is a singular rock, on! the east side, v/here the explorers of the river are said W have landed, and to have been attacked by the Pequods. The Mohegan country lies above, on the west side, with Horton's Hill, on the top of which Uncas had a fort, something of which still remains. It is a very command-* ing position, and overlooks the surrounding country. Dur- ing the late war, the government ships Macedonian,- United States, and Hornet, which were in the river, lay moored here for a length of time, and their guns were drawn up by oxen to the top of the hill on the east shore/ above the little cove* Trauino Coye, 1 mile above Kiah's Cove, is a hand- some little bay, making up into the Indian country, and derived its name from the barter formerly carried on here between the white men and the Mohegans. Uncas, the Sachem of Mohegan, was believed to be of Pequod descent, but in a state of successful revolt at the time the English became acquainted with him. His chief resi- dence was neuiF th?6 cove, now iIk) centre of the Indian ¥.. 170 Nonwicrt. Reservation ; but tlie burying ground of the royftl family was near Norwich Landing, (which is in sight from this place.) Ho had conquered the country as far north a» about the present Massachusetts lino, but became an early friend of the whites, and rendered them important ser^- vices, particularly in war, as well as his successors, tlie later Mohegan cliiefs. Before this p:irt of the state was settled, Uncas waa once 90 closely besieged by his enemies the Pequods, that he suffered extremely from a scarcity of provisions, and was relieved only by the care of a man named Lef- lingwell, who was despatched from Connecticut with a boat loaded with provisions. In gratitude, Uncas gave liim a large part of the present town of Norwich for this important service. There is a I'ock still pointed out on the shore, and called Uncas' Chair, where the Sachem is said to have sat and watched the arrival of hi? friends. On the south side. Trading Cove is bounded by Cooper's Hill ; beyond is Fort Hill, which derived its name from a little place of strength erected in old times by the Indians, as a protection against other nations small like themselves. The poor remains of this tribe reside on the lands secured to them by the state government, and live in all the igno- rance, idleness, and thriftlessness common to Indians in this part of the country : melancholy testimonies of the degradation to which the most active human minds may sink when every customary impulse to exertion has been stifled, and no new incitement extended. Worcester and Norwich Railroad, 58^ miles. Leaves Norwich Landing, passes up the valley of Quinnebaug road, near Jewett's city, and many manufactories, through Westfield, Pomfret, Oxford, &c. to Worcester, where it meets the railroads to Boston and to Springfield. Opened in 1840 ; cost 1 million ; maximum grade 20 feet. Norwich has three villages, of which Chelsea Landing is the principal, and is remarkable for its singular situation; as well as for its appearance of business, which is much favoured by the numerous manufactories in the neighbour- ing country. The Plain is about a mile north, and a very pleasant place. On the way thither is seen the Cove, at the upper end of which_aro the Fulls of Yantic, a stream which pours over a 1 several pictures( the stre once pn gans. Thel bank noi There ai bers of of them extinct. Uncas He and found ar to rende of extrac he refusi died a fri This p Mohegan The m mouth of the sum ( Sache Norwich, which a 1 900 Nan 500 or ( Miantoni to the E an army; him on tl Uncas alone, an single-ha while his falling d charged gansetts tured Mi jiot ask i a» I ROUTE PROM NEW'YOHK TO ROSTOW. 171 over a ledge of granite about 40 feet high, and supplies several manufactories with water. The place is highly picturesque. A rock, 70 or SO feet in height, overhangs the stream, whence a number of Narragansett Indians once precipitated themselves when pursued by the Mohe- gans. The Burying Ground of the Uncases is on the elevated bank north of the Cove, on the grounds of Judge Goddard, There are stones marking the graves of numerous mem- bers of the royal family of the Mohegans, and a few of them bear English inscriptions. The family is now extinct. Uncas, the old friend of the Pilgrims, is buried here. He and his nation were the only steady allies they ever found among the Indians, steady and powerful enough to render them very essential service. He was a man of extraordinary talent, ond withal extremely politic ; but he refused to join the Indians against the English, and died a friend of the white men. This plain was the principal summer residence of the Mohegans. The manufacturing village is under the bank and at the mouth of the Yantic. The position is well selected, and the sum expended in buildings and machinery very great. Sachem's Field. At the distance of 1^ miles from Norwich, is Sachem's Field, a small elevated plain, on which a battle was fought in the year 1643, between about 900 Narragansetts, (who inhabited Rhode Island,) and 500 or 600 Mohegans. The Sachem of the former, Miantonimo, intending to chastise Uncas for his adherence to the English, secretly advanced into his country with an army; but Uncas was aware of his approach, and met him on this plain, where both parties halted. Uncas resorted to a stratagem. He stepped forward alone, and challenged Miantonimo to decide the quarrel single-handed. This, as he expected, was refused; and while his enemies were not prepared, he gave a signal by falling down, when his men instantly set up a yell, dis- charged their arrows, and rushed forward. The Narra- gansetts fled, and many of them were killed. Uncas cap- tured Miantonimo himself, but the haughty Indian would not ask for quarter nor speak a word. lie was taken to 1^'^ JK. III I ..i' k"^ '■'■■<' ax im^M «(»-•. ml 172 NEWPORT. f^ Hartford, and after a trial, was delivered to Uncas for execution. He was brought back to this place, and while marching across the field, was tomahawked on a spot a little east of the road, where a heap of stones for many years marked the place of his burial. Newport, Rhode Island. This place possesses one of the best harbours in the United States. The entrance is guarded by Fort Adams; and the scenery about it is agreeable. Fort Adams on Brenton's Point embraces an extent of 130 acres. A range of guns lines the shore towards the west, and the casements, &c. are very strong. Newport extends about a mile along the shore, but pre- sents the aspect of decay, as the commerce has been re- moved to Providence. The situation has many advan- tages ; and this, with the cheapness of rent will probably render it the temporary abode of many strangers during the warm season. The houses of the town are thickly clustered about the margin, but make rather a gloomy appearance on account of the want of repair ; the place having experienced a gradual declension caused by the success of Providence, thirty miles further up. The beach behind the town, like the whole circuit of the city on the land side, was defended by a line of troops, batteries, &c. during the possession of it by the Knglish in the revolutionary war; and the opposite high grounds were occupied by the American army, whose head quar- ters were on Taumony Hill, a mile and a half, or there- abouts, from the town: an elevation which affords an extensive view on every side. Gen. Prescott was taken h*^re during the war, by a bold party of men under Col, Barton, who landed secretly from a boat in the night, went to the British head quarters, and conveyed their captive away before the land or naval forces, then in the harbour, could prevent them. The place was blockaded by the British fleet. During the possession of the place by the enemy, the trees were cut down for fuel ; and although the soil is admirably calculated for the growth of fruit trees, and was, before that period, quite covered with the finest or- chards, it is now 30 divested of trees of every descrijh tl(5h, as to an Americ excellence and preci regularly « agricultun The island tained in 1 Mount of the Nar of King r a few mile rises in W view of it i Prudence ] presents th as that of ] those of Pc size. Des] island of h from Provi Rhode J thracite, or since near two miles used, howe Providj in populati well as adv on the rive The Bos India Wha and, passin Walpole, 1 in 1835, cc radius, 571 Sharon, 25( nite in Can over Nepoi and excava Taunton to Taunton I SIOUTE FROM NEW- YORK TO BOSTON. 173 llcti, as to appear remarkably naked and monotonous for an American scene. The fen i lily of the ground, and the excellence of the crops, however, as well as the neatness and precision with which the fields are cultivated, and regularly divided by fine stone walls, present a picture of agricultural beauty rarely paralleled in the United States. The island, fourteen miles lonff, and not three widcf con- tained in 1827 more than 30,000 sheep. Mount Hope, famous as the ancient royal residence of the Narragansett Indians, and particularly as the abode of King Philip, and the scene of his death, is seen from a few miles beyond Newport, towards the northwest. It rises in Warren, on the shore of an arm of the bay. The view of it is soon afterwards cut off by the intervention of Prudence Island, which is about five miles in length, and presents the same fertile soil and gently swelling surface as that of Rhode Island. The inhabitants are few, as are those of Patience and Hope, islands of a much smaller size. Despair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near the island of Hope, the north end of which is twenty miles from Providence. Rhode Island Coal Mine. An extensive mine of An- thracite, or incombustible coal, was operTed a few years since near the end of the island, in Portsmouth, about two miles from Bristol Ferry. It was not extensively used, however, and the work was speedily abandoned. Providence is the second city in New-England, both in population, wealth and beauty. It is beautifully as well as advantageously situated at the head of navigation, on the river of the same name. The Boston and Providence Railroad, 41m. begins at India Wharf in Providence, near the steamboat landing; and, passing through the town, leads through Foxboro', Walpole, Dedham, Roxbury and other towns. Opened in 1835, cost nearly two millions, curvatures gentle, least radius, 5730 feet; highest grade, 37 J| feet; summit in Sharon, 256 feet above tide. There is a viaduct of gra- nite in Canton, 700 feet long, and above sixty feet high, over Neponset Valley. There are many embankments and excavations in rock. Taunton Branch railroad from Mansfield leads southeast to Taunton, 11m. and New-Bedford 24 m. more. «i. W.'.fH f?*.' ■1 't i,^' ■'•■*■ >r : ' I" 174 £>EDHA!ll; The Milbiiry Branch leaves the Boston and Providence railroad at Grafton for Milbury, 3 m. Brown Univkrsity, the greatest institution of learn- ing in the state, is built on the summit of a high hill, the ascent to wliich is not very easy, although it is laid out in streets decorated with some of the finest houses in this part of the country ) dispersed among spacious gardens, and mingling the delights of the country with the splen- dour of a city. Dr. Wayland is the president. The town was settled by Roger Williams, who left the old colonies in consequence of a disagreement in religious doctrines. lie built his house on the shoie, near the pre- sent Episcopal church. Many of the society of Quakers ot Friends afterwards joined him, whose descendants form a large share of the population of the state. The Academy is a large institution, near the College, established by the Friends or Quakers. [TaunIon, 32 miles from Boston, next above Digh* ton. A great quantity of cotton is manufactured here, and there are extensive works in iron. Blackstone Canal. This canal, which reaches to Worcester, MassachusettSj runs along the course of the Blackstone River for seveial miles. It is 45 miles long« 18 feet wide at the bottom, and 34 feet at the surface. There are 48 locks, all built of stone, which overcome a rise and fall of 450 feet. The size of tbe locks is 83 feet in length, and 10 in breadth ; and the cost of the whole work was about $500,000. The water is chiefly derived from the Blackstone river; but there are large ponds at different parts of the route which can be drawn upon at any time. The whole work was completed about 1828. Pawtucket is one of the largest manufacturing places in this part of the couj.i,ry. Thr banks of the river are Varied and somewhat romantic ; while the fall, which is under the bridge, furnishes a most valuable water power. Cotton is principally manufactured here, though there is machinery devoted to other purposes. Dedham, 10 mites from Boston, is a large and beautiful village, with regular and well built streets, and some quite elegant houses. t i Blue 1 from the c: summer se braces, in and the "V wide exterj all Boston These hi miles soutl Quincy . which was miles long, vigable wat The quarri( ROXBUR seen the General W up in the to where Gen command try. The American the east are ington, whi( and forced l here in thcii soon after ei Hotels. rough Hotel From Be Portsmouth, to Portland, and Nashua Andover, 7| shire, 46^ fr through Br( Norwich rai ing New-Y '*/ ■ «■» BosTo:f. 17& Blue H i lls. This is a pleasant retreat, about 7 miles from the city of Boston, and much resorted to in the summer season. On the northern side, the view em- braces, in a clear day, the Green Mountains in Vermont, and the White Mountains in New-Hampshire, with a wide extent of country between : Nahant, and in general, all Boston Bay, are seen eastwardly, and near at hand. These hills are seen on the right from the road, a few mileH south of Boston. Quincy Railway. This is the first work of the kind which was constructed in the United States. It is three miles long, and leads from the quarries of granite to na- vigable water, for the transportation of stone to Boston. The quarries will be founts worthy of a visit. RoxBURT. On the Neck which leads to Boston, arc seen the remains of the intrenchments thrown up by General Washington, in 1776, to shut the British troops up in the town ; and a little beyond them is the place where General Gage previously drew his lir.e across, to command the communication between it and the coun- try. The country on both sides retains marks of the American forts, redoubts, &c. and Dorchester Heights on the east are crowned with the works thrown up by Wash- ington, which commanded Boston and the anchorage ; and forced the enemy to evacuate the place. Embarking here in their fleet, they went around to Long Island, and soon after entered New-York. THE CITY OF BOSTON, Hotels. The Tremont House, Exchange, Marlbo- rough Hotel, &:c. From Boston railroads run in several directions: to Portsmouth, New-Hampshire, 65i'miles, to be extended to Portland, Maine, 58 miles further ; to Lowell 26^ miles, and Nashua, New-Hampshire, 16 miles. A branch to Andover,7| miles, from Boston; and Exeter, New-Hamp- shire, 46^ from Boston. To Worcester, 44^ miles, and through Brookfield to Springfield, 64 miles more, while Norwich railroad goes from Worcester, 58^ miles, meet- ing New- York ilenmboats. To Providence, 41 miles, 16 MM % ' ':■: 175 THE a.then.«um:. meeting New- York steamboats, and also the Sloninaton, Connecticut railroad, 47 miles, which also meetd New* York steamboats. (For particulars of these roads see farther on.) Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine build« ings, particularly private residences. The finest build- ings are of whitish granite, brought from the shores of the Merrimack River, and Qiiincy. The Market is of granite, and has a centre buildinTj 744 feet by 55, with wings, extending in all 636 feet, with a fine facade at each end, with granite columns of single pieces, 21 feet high, and weighing each 14 or 15 tons. A row of granite buildings on each side, 4 stories high, for stores, is more than 500 feet. The CoMiMON is a fine piece of ground, of about 50 acres, on the southwestern side of the city, and one of its greatest ornaments. The surface is agreeably varicul by a few gentle undulations, and it is decorated with rows of handsome dwelling houses on two sides, while on the third, it is bounded by the bay of Charles River, and affords an extensive view in that direction, embracing a tract of cultivated hilly country. Here are Crescent Pond and the great Elm. Th« State House is the principal object seen in ap- proaching the city, and stands on a considerable eminence at the north side of the common. It has a large dome on the top, aflJbrding the most extensive view of Boston and the surrounding country which is to be found. Chantrey^s Statue of Washington. In this beautiful specimen of the skill of the greatest British Sculptor, Boston possesses a treasure. It was finished and sent to America in 1827, and a new apartment was constructed for its reception, adjoining the Doric Hall in the State House. The total expense of the statue and building amounted to about $16,000. Faneuil Hall is an old building, which was used for public meetings before the revolutioni and where the spirit of liberty was early excited and cherished. The AthetKBum, at the south '^nd of Pearl-street, i» open daily to strangers introduced by members, and con- tains a valuable library of about 35,000 vols, and about 14,000 coi the rear, v cal CoUe^ Society's seum in C setts Gene At Chai improved dry dock. The hill Charle8to^ which pro regular an House ; ar tion, almo! and water glance, to adopted di capture of Gen. Ga neck, whic land comr then contir which exa Contributi( the colonie On the J repaired tc at Cambri tachments ments havi ferior emii the ground to occupy larly on th three attac success wi the regulai country, ai fighting a name of E td New- ads sec le build- it build- es of the DuildinjT, 36 feet, urnns of 4 or 15 4 stories ibout 50 one of y varidd :ed with Ds, while s River, iibracing iJrescent m in ap- minence dome on 3lon and jeautiful Iculptor, j sent to structed e State building jsed for he spirit treet, is ind con- d about B0ST05. 177 14,000 coins and medals, with the Gallery of Fine Arts in the rear, with a collection of statues, paintings, &c. Medi- cal College in Mason-street; Massachusetts Historical Society's Library in Franklin-street; New-England Mu- seum in Court-street; Eye and Ear Infirmary ; Massachu- setts General Hospital. At Charlestown are the State Prison, conducted on the improved plan, and the U. S. Navy Yard, with ship houses, dry dock, &c. Also, the Insane Hospital. The hills at Dorchester, Roxbury, Brighton, Cambridge, Charlestown, &c. together with the numerous islands which protect the harbour, form an amphitheatre, very regular and beautiful, when seen from the top of the State House; and the villages which are seen in every direc- tion, almost entirely line the shore. The mingling of land and water in this scene is very fine ; and it is easy, at a glance, to comprehend the plan of the various measures adopted during the revolutionary war, for the defence and capture of the place. Gen. Gage, in 1775, ran a breastwork across Roxbury neck, which is very narrow, in order to command the only land communication with the neighbouring country, and then continued those acts of oppression upon the people, which exasperated the colonies so much against him. Contributions were sent in for their relief from all parts of the colonies. On the 17th of June, 1775, while the forces which had repaired to this threatened scene, had their head quarters at Cambridge, a body of men, principally formed of de- tachments from Massachusetts and New-Hampshire regi- ments having fortified themselves on Breed's Hill, (an in- ferior eminence behind Charlestown,) manfully disputed the ground with the British troops, sent over from Boston to occupy it. The loss was great on both sides, particu- larly on that of the assailants, who were driven back in three attacks. The boldness of these raw troops, and the success with which they so long withstood the charges of the regulars, were of the utmost use, by encouraging the country, and by convincing the English that thoy were fighting a powerful foe. The battle usually goes by the name of Bunker's Hill ; but should, in strict propriety, be <» til "r I 'f. 178 DORCHESTER HEIGHTS. If it called after Breed's Hill, as the latter is a distinct emi- nence, although, perhaps, a spur from the former. The British landed near a point, just beyond where the navy yard is now seen ; and the American defences consisted of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's Hill, (where the great monument is now seen, half finish- ed,) and a double rail fence, stuffed with new hay, ex- tending from it to the water. A British sloop of war lay, during the action, in Mystic River, beyond the navy yard, and kept up a cross fire upon the low neck, which connects the peninsula of Charlestown with the main land. On the 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of this battle, the corner stone of the monument was laid in an angle of the old redoubt on Breed's Hill. The base, (a mass of 14,000 tons weight,) is laid 13 feet deep, and has six courses of stone to the surface — the first of which is 50 feet on each side. Above this a pyramidal obelisk, 30 feet square, is to rise tapering, 213 feet 4 inches on the ground, and to be 15 at the top. It will be composed of 80 courses of stone, each 2 feet 8 inches thick. A winding stone staircase in the inside will lead to the summit, whence the view will be fine and highly interesting. The whole is to be built of granite from Q,uincy. The largest block in it iti said to be of the following dimensions : 1 1 feet long, 2 broad, 2 fee", 8 inches high, with a weight of 10 tons. After the battle of Bunker's hill, the Continental troops were drawn in a more complete line around the town of Boston ; and numerous intrenchments may still be traced out on most of the hills in the vicinity ; but it was not till Gen. Washington had succeeded in occupying Dorchester Heights, which command the harbour and town from the southeast, that the British forces embarked in their ships, and evacuated the place. Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night of March 4, 1776. Eight hundred men formed the van; then followed carriages, and 1200 pioneers under General Thomas, 300 carts of fascines and gabions, and guns in the rear. Two forts were formed by 10 at night, one to- wards the city, and the other towards Castle Island. Pre* parations were made for an attack by the British, and for defence the designs they embar and 1500 h 17th : amm Bridges neighhourhc it to various pal ones, be they have b great, and t of making milldam bri Public S which were the Latin, schools com years of ag( pense incur $54,000 am A monun Franklin's \ an obelisk 2 granite, eacl Village: sion of villn in the Unite a number of seasons, au< The ground and highly c should fail t There are vicinity, an vard Univer town, shou Nahant vourite resn ation, optiri and furnish of visiters, thither intl NAHANT. 17a lor defence hy the Amoricansj but the weather prevented the desi;[,'-n.s of the former, who consisted of 10,000, and they emhiirkod for New-York. The town was pillaged,, and 1500 loyalists removed. It was evacuated on March 17th: ammunition, &c. heing left by the British. Bridges. Some of the most striking objects in the neighbourhood (vf Boston, are the bridges which lead fromi it to various points. There are noles?< than seven princi- pal ones, beside several branches. The expense at which they have been constructed and are kept in repair is very great, and they furnish great facilities for strangers desirous of making excursions to the surrounding country. The milldam bridge is two miles long. Public Schooh. There are seven grammar schools, in which were about 500 pupils. There were 200 boys in the Latin, and 140 m the Hi^h 8cho«)l. The primary schools contained almost 3000 children between 4 and 7 years of age, taught by females, &c. &c. The public ex' pense incurred in instructing nearly 75,000 children, i* $54,000 annually. A monument has been laid over the graves of Dr- Franklin's parents, in the Granary burying ground. It is an obelisk 25 feet high, formed of seven blocks of Quincy granite, each weighing about six tons. Villages. The vicmity of Boston presents a succes- sion of villages, probably not to be paralleled for beauty in the United State*. They are generally the residence of a number of the roost opulent citizens during the pleasant seasons, and many of the buildings are fine and expensive. The grounds are also frequently laid out with great taste,, and highly cultivated ; so that no stranger, who has leisure, should fail to take a circuit through them, for a few milese There are several manufacturing establishments in this vicinity, among which Waltham is conspicuous. Har- vard University and Mount Auburn Cemetery, near Charles- town, should be visited. Also, Fresh Pond. Nahant, 14 miles. This is a very pleasant and fa- vourite resort, during the warm months : being a fine situ- ation, optiu to the sea, of easy access by land and water^ and furnished with several houses for the accommodatioi* of visiters, particularly a large hotel. A steamboat runs thither in the summer, and there is a fine road which pas*cs» (■;•.■.■••( mm lift V' m rtYMoUTll. found the bay, throuo:h the shoe-making town of Lyrttl> filoiiff Lynn ])cuch, and then turns ofV to the promontcnv of Nahant, which is a point of roiif^h rocks of consi(U^ral)lo elevation. You may cross Charlestown bridge, and visit Bunker's Hill at setting out. The passage in the steamboat affords a fine view of Boston hay, with the city; Dorchester Heights on the south, Bunker and Breed's Hills on the northwest, and many other interesting objects. Among the islands which form the defence of the harbour, is that which contains Castle Williams, and one or two other fortified onest Rainsford Island has the Marine Hospital, part of it quite elevated, but containing only a few acres, and another on *which is the Fatm School, an interesting institution for boys. Salt is made in Boston Bay, and windmills are sometimes used to pump the water. The ground near the hotel at Nahant lias been laid out and ornamented with taste* The cupola on the top com* mands a fine water scene ; and during a strong wind from the sea, the waves are high and magnificent, breaking wildly against the rocks. The Baths are at a little distance from the hotel, and quite commodious, furnishing one of the chief attractions of the place. The SyrerCs Grotto is a remarkable cavity in the tocks, about a quarter of a mile from the hotel. It has been curiously worn out by the waves ; and there are several other caverns of a similar character, produced in the course of ages, by the constant attrition of the water. The Spouting Horn is a hole in the rocks, on the oppo* site side, where the water is thrown up in the air at par^* ticular times of tide. The rocks are of granite^ porphyry, epidote, &c. and furnish pebbles of jasper, &c. Pulpit Rock, on the south, is a singular object ; its top is almost inaccessible. The rude shores and the smooth beach cart be best examined at low tide ; but those who are fond of sublime scenes, should omit no opportunity to visit them when the wind is high, particularly in a moonlight night. Plymouth, 36 miles S. S. E. from Boston.-^This place is highly interesting on account of its history, being the site of the first settlement made by the New-England Pil* ^rims in 1620, on the 22d of December. Amass of granite pi J K vock is B landed, buried no: upper pan A hand which the brations ot try. Bur) where a sr the graves banks of tl first confe Indian chi quently th a proraont small islan the pilgriir after havin The you here, from were unpre region,) ai assistance < served thei Routes \ in so man; tween a gr for a tour t York. In the fii may be tal the Spring! scribed rot •choose a n road throu* cord and E its branche Besides through til Bloody Bi Lebanon;) Those V I Hi tOUn OP KBVV-XNQLJLND. in fock is Btill Bhown on wliich those stepped who first landed. It has been divided, and a part of it remains buried nraar the shore in its natural location, wljilc the tipper part is removed into the centre of the village. A handsome building was erectsd here in 1020, in Nvhich the Nevv^England Society hold iheir annual cele- brations of that interesting era in the history of the coun*- try. Burying Hill, which rises near at hand, is the spot where a small fort was erected by the 8ettl»_'rs, and where the graves of several of them are still to be found. The banks of the brook so'Uh of tlie hill were the scene of the first conference with Massasoit, a friendly and faithful Indian chief, from whom the name of the Bay, and subse- quently that of the state was derived. Manumet point is a promontory on the south side of the harbour ; and a small island on the opposite side of it was the sprit where the pilgrims first placed their feet on shore in this vicinity, after having previously landed on Cape Cod. The young and feeble colony suffered extreme distresses here, from the severity of the climate, (against which they were unprepared, as they had sailed for a more southern region,) and the want of provisions. Nothing but tbe assistance of Massasoit, under the providence of God, pre^ served them from extinction. Routes from jBo«^oto.— -Railroad cars and coaches go in so many directions, that a choice may be made be* tween a great many, all of tliem pleasant, in setting out for a tour to the westward^ or towards the city of New- York. In the first place, the noble scenery of the White HiUs may be taken in the way to Lake Champlain, Canada, the Springs, or Niagara ; or in making the more circum- scribed route of Connecticut River. Next, those who ■choose a more direct way, may avail themselves of the road through Concord, Plymouth, and Haverhill; or Con- cord and Hanover; or Concord, Keene, and Windsor; or its branches to Chariestown or Walpole. Besides these, are the roads to Albany or the Springs, through the following different places; Brattleborough, Bloody Brook, Greenfield, Northampton, (and New- Lebanon;) Springfield and Hartford. Those who desire t« travel rapidly will take the Wor- It lH: W-v. " : 4 •■ ■^m 182 R0UTK9 rnoM BOSTOlf. .. cester Railroad. To strangers, it will be proper to remark once morn, that the route of Connecticut River presents at once a scene of fertility, population, good habits, and in- telligence, on the whole, superior to any other tvutt of country, of equal extent, in the United States ; with cor- respondent aoconmmodations for travellers. The scenery is rich and varying, and cannot fail to please, wherever it is seen ; hut those who can first pass through l\\e Notch in the White Mountains, will find its beauties greatly enhanced by the contrast. East of Boston, the country is of a diflferent, and too often of an opposite character, presenting few objects of importance, except the sea ports through whicli the road passes. There is a line of steamboats to Maine and New- Brunswick. The ro:>d to Portland, and through the most populous part of the state of Maine, will be given towards the end of the volunoe. The Boston and Lowell Railroad, northwest, 26 J m. Crosses Charlestown road on a viaduct, and passes in view of the ruins of the Charlestown Nunnery on Mount Bene- dict, which was burned by a mob 8 or 9 years ago, on a charge of the ill treatment of some of the nuns. At Wil- mington a branch leads off to Andover, 7| m. Haverhill 10, and Exeter, N. H. 20 m. Near Lowell is a long and deep cut, ;J m. long, 47 foet deep, and 80 feet wide, through a mass of gneiss rock, where granite and other rocks are singularly intermingled* Summit, 125 foet; maximum grade, 10 feet per mile; least radius, 3000 feet. More than half is straight. Opened June, 18.35 This road is extended to Nashua, N. H. 15- m. Opened 1838. It is to reach to Concord. The Boston and Worcester Railroad, 44g miles. Extends from the shore of Boston harbour, under Wash- ington-street, aooss the city by a viaduct, over Charles river, on an emhankraent 680 feet long, and through a cut through grnnile 500 feet long and 30 feet deep, along Charles river, through Brighton to Needham, and through Natick, Framingham, Westborough, and Grafton, to Wor- cester, 5 miles ea.^t of which is the summit, 550 foet above tide. Th< than I m feet; leas road is The ( cester to Brookfielc 7n a year m. further and able miles an flour will barrel. The Bo tends fron a tunnel u port, (40 n to be cont bunk Por further. From E by the Wh and Nashi Amoskeag Outlet, 17 corner of Old Craw Notch Me tleton, 18 From 1 Concord 25; Broo Moretowr Willston, From . the Gulf Chelmsfo mack, 7 ; 9 ; Hillsb {on Conn 14; (the %i '^ TOUR OF IfEW-KNGLAND. 183 tide. There is a cut through slato 37 ftiot deep. Less than I in. on this route is level: maximum grade, 30 feet ; loa3t radius, 954 feet. The continuation of this road is Tfic Great Western Railroad^ open from Wor- cester to Springfield, 54 m. through Charlton, South Brookficld, Palmer, and Wilhraham ; and is to he finished Jn a year to West Stockbridge, on the New-York line, G2 in. further. Engines can travel here weighing 14 tons, and ahle to draw a train with 1000 barrels of flour, 10 miles an hour. When the lino is complete to Albany, flour will probably go thenco to Boston for 35 cents a barrel. The Boston and PortsriOuth, or Eastern Railroad ex- tends from East Boston through Lynn, Salem, (there is a tunnel under part of the town,) Ipswich and Newbury- port, (40 m.) ; to Portsmouth, N. H. 15^ m. It !•» probably to be continued tr> Portland, Me. through Wells, Kenne- bunk Port, and baco; and thence to Bangor, 132 miles further. From Boston to Burlington, Vt. on Lake Cham plain, by the White Hills, 274 m. Railroad to Lowell, 25 m. and Nashua, N. H. 15 ; Merrimack, 6 ; Piscatnqua, 10 ; Amoskeag, 2 ; Hooksct, 7 ; Concord, 8 ; Winnipiscogee Outlet, 17; Guildford, 11; Centre Harbour, (northwest corner of the lake,) 13; Conway, 35; Bartlett, 10; the Old Crawford Farm, 7 ; Notch House, 6 ; Notch, and Notch Meadov/ Tavern, 2; Ethan A. Crawford's, 4; Lit- tleton, 18; Montpelier, 40 ; Burlington, 38. From Boston to Burlington, short route, 206 m. To Concord as above, then to Hanover, 55 m ; Randolph, 25; Brookfield, 12; Williamstown, 8; Montpelier, 10; Moretown, 7 ; Waterbury, 4 ; Bolton, 8 ; Richmond, 2 ; Willston, 9 ; Burlington, 8. From Boston to Burlington through Windsor, Vt. by the Gulf Road, 20G m^ to Woburn, 10 m; Billerica, 9; Chelmsford, 4 ; Tyngsborough, 7 ; Dunstable, G ; Merri- mack, 7 ; Amherst, 3; Mount Vernon, 6; Francistown, 9 ; Hillsboro', 9 ; Washington, 9 ; Sumpter, 7 ; Claremont, {on Connecticut river,) 12; Windsor, Vt. 9 ; Woodstock^ 14 ; (the rest as above.) ; iPi !ii"**|! '''.4>\ ''" ■ > >* ji i>i; r;r 184 BROOKFIEID. To Albany^ through Worcester, Northampton and Lebanon Springs* Watertown, like almost all the villages in the vici- ni»y of Boston, presents many neat country seats and an aspect of rural beauty and fertility. Framingham, 20 miles from Boston. Worcester, 20 m. Leicester, 6 m. Spencer, 6 m. Brookfield. This was one of the towns earliest set- tled in this part of the country, dating as far back as Nov. 10, 1665 ; end for several years the only towns on the west were Hadley, Northampton, &c. while there >/yas no white settlement between it and Canada. The stagecoach passes over a long hi'.l in West Brookfield, which commands an extensive prospect; and this was the place where the settlement began. A few yards west of a white house on the north side of the road, was a house built for defence, and though of little strength, was called the Fort. In August, 1675, this place was suddenly beset by several hundred savages. The in- habiinnts had been imposed upon by the appearance of triendlincss shown by the Hassenemesit Indians, and on thei way to their fort, a few miles distant, were ambush- ed, a;)d pursued, so that they barely escaped. The house in which they all assembled, was besieged, and was seve- ral times in imminent danger. On one occasion a cart, loaded with liemp, &c. and set on fire, was pushed up to the house with long poles, when a sudden shower came up, in time to extinguish the flames. The fortunate arri- val of Capt. Mosely, with a small troop of horsemen, de- livered the inhabitants, and drove away the savages. All the houses having been burnt, and the war soon begin- ning to rage with violence, the settlement was evacuated. The old well still remains which belonged to the fort, or block house ; and there is a rock in a wall, on the oppo- site side of the road, from behind which an Indian shot one of the men, who came out to draw water during the siege. The present village is at the bottom of the hill, and is pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the neighboiir- hoodj which, with th« fish and fowl they furnished, were the princi numerous to the Qi miles, take cut at Spri Ware The rocks fall. Belchi AmHER; ampton do Hadle^ ROU'll The firs both in Nc Lowell. There are stagec ing ihem. The firs University, The seci on the Me The thii The disl Several Lexinq' blood was April, 177 ton, to sei the colony sign, by a ren. The ing, they ^ themselvef their appe step, with alarm gun tiamen as on and the vici- and an ;r, 6 m. liest set- back as owns on le there Bi. The ookfieW, his was w yards ad, was strength, ace was The in- rance of and on imbush- le house as seve- a cart, id up to sr came ite arri- »en, de- 8. All I begin- cuated. he fort, ? oppo- m shot ing the and is [■hbour- l, were TOUR or NE\t-£N GLAND. 185 the principal attraction of the savages, who were very numerous in this tract of country. These ponds give rise to the Quabai'j River, which, after a course of some miles, takes the name of Chicopee, and joins the Con::ecti cut at Springfield. Ware Factory Village is situated in a little valley. The rocks and woods give an aitof wildness to the water- fall. Belchertown, nine miles. Amherst, seven miles. The shortest road to North- ampton does not pass the College. (See Index.) Hadlet, five miles. ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. The first day's journey may be to Concord or Dover, both in New-Hampshire ; or you may take the railroad to Lowell. There are three road? to Concord, on all which there are stagecoaches. (All necessary information concern- ing them, can be readily obtained at the hotels.) The first is through Cambridge, (where is Harvard University,) and Lexington. The second is through Charlestown, and joins the other on the Merrimack. The third is through Andover and Haverhill, Mnss. The distance is from 68 to 70 miles. Several places on these roads will be particularized. Lexington is remarkable as the place where the first blood was shed in the revolution«.ry war. On the 1 9th of April, 1776, Gen. Gage sent a body of troops from Bos- ton, to seize a powder house at Concord, belonging to the colony ; and the inhabitants were warned of his de- sign, by an express despatched by the Hon. Joseph War- ren. The militia were called out, but, the alarm subsid- ing, they were dismissed, with orders, however, to hold themselves in readiness. The enemy unexpectedly made iheir appearance at half past four, coming on at a quick step, within a mile and a quarter of the church. The alarm guns were fired, drums beat, and fifty or sixty mili- tiamen assembled on the parade. The British brigade A ^<1 1, )''.'• '■'■1 '1 ' i!:^ii "'Pr I m 185 AN DOVER. halted about 120 yards from the church to load, and then passing the east end of the building, discovered the Ame- ricans, who were ordered at the moment, by their corn-' mander, Capt. Parker, to " disperse, and take care of themselves," but "not to fire." As some of them loiter- ed, the British troops rushed towards them, huzzaing. Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at them, when about thirty yards distant after they had been called " rebels," and ordered them to lay down their arms and disperse. An- other officer, who was within a few yards of them, then brandished his sword, and ordered the troops to " fire," which was obeyed at the second order ; and the fire being returned, it was kept up on the dispersing men until they had all disappeared. Eight were killed and ten wounded. (Gvin. Gage falsely stated that the British were first fired Upon.) Aftor the regulars had fired a volley, from the green behind the church, and given three cheers, they proceed- ed to Concord. On their return, being hard pressed by sharp shooters, they burnt three houses, a shop, and a barn, killed three more men, and wounded one. Andov2R is a small village, situated on high ground, twenty miles from Boston, remarkable for the Philips Academy and Theological Seminary, which are three fourths of a mile east from it, on the summit of the ascent. There are three large brick buildings belonging to the seminary, which make a conspicuous figure from different parts of the surrounding country, and command a view of great extent bounded on the west by the Temple Hills in New-Hampshire, backed by the Monadnoc, alout sixty miles off; and in the south by the Blue Hills. A little elevation near by affords a view of the Atlantic Ocean, from about Newburyport to Cape Ann, with part of Sa- lem ; and northwest is a distant peak, which is supposed to be Ascutney, in Vermont. The academical birildings are distinguished by the names of Philips Hall, Bartlett Hall, and the Chapel. In the upper part of the latter is a library. The profea • sors' houses are opposite, with a spacious green interven- ing between the seminary and the street ; and there is also a large ina. The academy and seminary are not con- nected, although they are under the superintendence of tho t Bftme bojBi] braces thi LowEi This is United St of growth tory was Larger or the Merr chase of high. 3,500 spii of a large Haver on the no for some slope to t boat runs Chelm Great miles abo Nashu. from Con five feet, Dover, state, and supply of About I is a villag CoifCO] very fine the travel tains, and The to i« of a g many rea riraack, v The S near the street, ai ing an ai and is a and then he Ame- icir corn-' care of m loiter- luzzaing. mt thirty Js," and se. An- em, then ire ?; ire being mtil they k^ounded. irst fired he green proceed- essed by p, and a ground, Philips re three ; aecent. g to the different . view of Hills in )ut sixty A little Ocean, t of Sa- upposed by the sel. In profeg' nterven- 3 is also lot con- e of tho I * -^ 5^ i HOUTK To THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 187 «ftme board. The term of instractv^n in the latter em- braces three years. Lowell, twelve miles frciTi Boston, by a railroad. This is one of the greatest manufacturing places in the United States, and one of the most astonishing rapidity of growth. No longer agot'ian 1313, the firdt cotton fac- tory was erected here, which cost only about $3,000< Larger ones were founded in 1818 ; and two years after the Merrimack " Manufacturing Company" made a pur- chase of buildings and ground. The falls are thirty feet high. There is power enough for fifty factories with 3,500 spindles each. The place now presents the aspect of a large and busy town. Haverhill is a small town, but pleaiantly situated, on the north bank of the Merrimack, the shores of which, for some distance below, present a beautiful and fertile slope to the water. A bridge crosses the river. A steam- boat runs to Newburyport, and railroad cars to Boston. Chelmsford is a manufacturing place. Great JFalls Village is a manufacturing village, five miles above Dover. Nashua Village, in Dunstable, thirty-three miles from Concord. The fall in the Nashua river is sixty- five feet, and the power equal to about 65,000 spindles. Dover. This is one of the principal towns in the state, and contains several manufactories, although the supply of water is by no means abundant at all seasons. About five miles above Dover, at Salmon River Falls, is a village, containing manufactories. Concord is the capital of New*Hampshire, and a very fine and flourishing town. It is nmch the largest the traveller will see before reaching the White Moun- tains, and for a great distance beyond them. The town is situated principally on one street, which is of a great length and very convenient breadth, with many respectable houses ; and runs parallel with the Mer- rimack , which is at only a short distance on the east. The State House occupies a conspicuous situation near the middle of the town, a little removed from the street, and surroimded by a handsome stone wall, enclos- ing an area. It is built of hewn granite from the quarry, and is a neat edifice; 100 feet long, with a large hall on 17 WW : ■•• • \ m T1. . I 4u\ f N W ^: i. 188 CONCORD, f. the first floor, and on the second the Senate and Repre- sentatives' Chambers, with the committee rooms, state offices, &c. &c. The view from the top {5 extensive, but embraces a tract of country too little cultivated to be rich, und too unvaried to be picturesque. At the north- ward are seen two or three distinct peaks, which may serve as an earnest of the magnificent scenery to be pre- sented to the traveller in that direction. The Statk Prison is built t a short distance from the State House, and bears a still greater appearance of solidity and strength. There is an academy in Concord, with several churches. Several newspapers are printed here, and gazettes from distant places may be found at the inns. The Merrimack River has been rendered navigable, by various improvements, from Concord to Chelmsford, whore the Middlesex Canal opens a communication di- rectly to Boston, 28 miles. Small manufacturing villages succeed each other along the banks wherever the canals round the falls and rapids afford water-power. Roads. Several lines of stagecoache? meet in this town, from Boston, Portsmouth, Plymouth, Haverhin*, Burlington, by the way of Windsor and Conway, on the road to the Notch in the Mountains. From Plymouth a coach goes through Franconia Notch to Littleton. The road follows the Pemigewasset^ through line, mrgnifiicent scenery. There is a road oa each side of the lake towards Con- way. The eastern meets the lake steamboats at the S, E. corner. The traveJler should spend a day at Centre- Harbour, to which the road is pleasant and the country agreeable, although there are but few villages on the way. Two roads from Concord lead to Meredith Bridge Vil- lage, 24 miles distant : one by Sandbornton bridge, 15 miles' — the other by the Shaker village, 12 miles. From M. B. Village, delightfully situated between two hays, and on a beautiful river that never freeze^ , it is nine miles to the shore of the Lake at Meredith Cove, and 13 to Centre Harbour. For some miles before reaching that place, the country begins to as&unie the featuies of bold and mountaiii scenery. is varied v to such a proceeds; sloping hi contrast, WiNNI] the islandi jects of pi multitude single roc farms. CfiN'^fl rewardtu, day to ma Red N feet in hei the way i out som( roughness for half a mountain, his horse i The trav( notch he ' where a c the house and foUov An ear improved ral accoai Thefo the spot, North, pond lyin tains bob 0U3 dark and enve mits, whi yond the mistaken ns, state" isivc, but rd to be 10 north- hich mav o be pre • nee from araiicc of churches, ttes from lavigable, elms ford, nation di- g villages hs canals t in this laverhili, y, on the lia Notch ; through ids Con- at the S- t Centre- country the way. idge Vil- ridge, 15 veen two sec , it is t»i Cove, country lountain aOUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. IQS scenery. Even before arriving at the lake, the prospect is varied with many of those noble elevations which rise to such a height of grandeur and sublimity as the traveller proceeds; and the frequent glimpses afforded between the sloping hills, over the beautiful lake below, by a happy contrast, increase the effect. WiNNipismoGEE Lake. The number and diversity of the islands with which the lake is spangled, will be ob- jects of paiticular admiration. They are countless for multitude, and in size preaent all gradations between a single rock and a surface sufficient for several extensive farms. Gunstock Mountain lies south of the lake. Cen'^!IB Harbour. Here the traveller will be amply revvardbi., if the weather be fine, by stopping at least a day to make an excursion to the top of Red Mountain. This eminence may be about 1500 feet in height, and is accessible for about two-thirds of the way in a carriage or on horseback, though not with- out some dirlculty, on account of the steepness and roughness of the road. Indeed the path is very rocky for half a mile or more before reaching the base of the mountain, and the hardy pedestrian will prefer to leave his horse at the main road, before turning off by the brook. The traveller should direct his course towards a little notch he will see about three quarters of the distance up, where a cultivated field and a fence are visible. From the house situated there, ho must turn towards the left, and follow a path o the summit. An early visit is recommended, as the scene is much improved by an oblique light, and the morning is on seve- ral accounts to be preferred. The foll'^wing sketch of the scene was noted down on the spot, and maybe taken as generally correct. Nor Ik, the eastern end of Squam Lake, and part of a pond lying near it, with the range of the Sandwich Moun- tains behind, stretching off towards the east, with numer- ous dark brown peaks, partly cultivated about their bases, and enveloped above with forests, excepting their sum- mits, which are generally divested of verdure. Far be- yond these appear several loftier peaks, which might be mistaken for the White Mountains, were they visible fr-oa y';..::"'fM! "i.i. ^ 1'- ''I , :'ir, •-III j (.;■ 100 TIEW FROM RED MOTJNTAIIf. n this point. An intermediate peak with rocky precipices may be While-faced Mountain. East-Northeast. The eye ranges up the spacious val- ley through which lies the way to the White Mountains, and the road which is to condact the traveller seems di- minished to the dimensions of a garden walk. Chocaway^ or, as it is familiarly called, Corroway Peakj rises on the left; while the ncble ridge of the Ossipee Mountains be gins nearer at hand on the right, and almost overshadows the observer with its enormous size. The sides of these mountains show ? beautiful display of farms, interspersed with wood-lots and dwelKmgs, which in many places have encroached far towards the summits, and in others pursue the slope of the fertile uplands to the valley at their feet. Numerous elevations appear at a greater distance, and range themselves in lines to complete the perspective of a most magnificent vista, which finally closes at a ridge, whose shade is reduced by its remoteness to the colour of a cloud. A prominent and remarkable mountain, which appears scarcely less distant, is called Pickwaket Mountain, and rises by the Saco River, near the place where Capt. Lovel fought his well-known battle with the Indians ; and the fine valley between is the country pass- ed over in that fatal expedition, in both the approach and the retreat. East. The view abuts upon the Ossipee Mountains, and no variety is afforded until we turn to the South- Southeast. In that direction, and farther to the right, the whole surface of Winnipiseogee Lake lies charmingly spread out to view, varied by numerous points and headlands, and interspersed with beautiful islands which man despairs to number. Several distant eleva- tions appear, on this side of which the sloping land just mentioned extends for several miles along the shore, with a well-cultivated surface spotted in all directions with large barns and farm-houses, to the very margin of the lake. There numerous points run out far into the water, to complete the labyrinths formed by the islands. Gun- stock Mountain rises one point east of south, just on the left of which opens the entrance of Merry-meeting Bay. The elerated island on the right of that is Rattlesnake I Island, na abounds ; by west richness o The Sc wood lots surface, w quite to th of tall bu pear two almost los several ric as the eye near the mountains Long Po between t sheets of v of the hills Winnipl Harbour tc meeting Bt and contaii only two taxes. Sc and Moon Islands, 6n although tt tion is paid children ir surveys mi the ocean. Squaml Winuipise( in fish of ti here in gr( of the oth vary from Lake are I: of nearly < The trout I I EOUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAIXS. 131 Island, named from the vcnemous reptiles with which it abounds ; over this the distant land appears high. South by west rises a high hill resembling the Ossipee in the richness of its slopes. The Southwest and West is agreeably varied with wood lots and cleared fields, scattered over an undulated surface, which extends for many miles, in some places quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken boundary of tall but distant mountains. In the southwest ap- pear two or three peaks, so far removed iY A they are almost lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen several ridges of inferior magnitude, which, approaching as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come near the lake, and disappear behind the neighbouring mountains. Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining surface between the west and south, with several other little sheets of water, which lie in tranquillity under the shelter <5f the hills. Winnipiseogce Lake is 19 miles in length, from Centre Harbour to Alton, at the southeastern extremity. Merry- meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the islands are large, and contain good farms and wealthy inhabitants, although only two or three of them belong to any town, or pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rattlesnake, Cow , Bear, and Moon Island ; also. Half Mile, One Mile, Two Mile Islands, &c. &c. None of them contain churches ; and although they have no school houses, yet sufficient atten- tion is paid to the rudiments of education to render the children intelligent. Winnipiseogee Lake, according to surveys made by Mr. Baldwin in 1825, is 501 feet above the ocean. Squam Lake lies west from Red Mountain, and like Winnipiseogee Lake, abounds not only in islands, but in fish of the finest descriptions. Fine trout are caught here in great abundance, and of a size superior to those of the other lake. The trout of Winnipiseogee Lake vary from 1 to 4 pounds in weight, while those of Squam Lake are between 4 and 10. They are sometimes caught of nearly double this size ; but that is very uncommon. The trout fishery is chiefly carried on during the winter, 17* JV: ■I*-; *iu'.\ : 102 CONWAT, when great qwantities arc salted for the Boston market. Perch also abound very much in these waters, and are ro- markab'y fine. The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the inountain its name. The summit is strewed with loose fragments ; and rausquetoes and black jiita often abound there. A few days may be spent at Centre Harbour very agreeably, in making excursions in the neighbourhood, or in sailing upon the lake, which abounds in the most inter- esting variety of scenes. On leaving this place by water, at the distance of five miles, the VVhite Mountains rise into view above the intermediate peaks, and continue in sight quite across the lake. From Centre Harbour to Conway. Proceeding north- east from Centre Harbour, you enter the valley between the two chains of mountains seen from the top of Red Mountain, and pass through Moultonboro' and Tamworth. The surface is irregular, and much of the land uncleared ; but settlement.*) have extended far up the sides of some of the mountains, and farms are occasionally discovered quite at the top. The features of the scenery are bold and striking. Eaton Meeting House. Two miles northwardly from this, Ossipee Lake may be seen by leaving the road. Conway, six miles. The view of the White Moun- tains is very fine from this place, presenting a succession of lofty ridges, the most distant of^which are the peaks of Meunts Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Quincy. The most prominent elevation on the right, with two summits, is Kearsearge, or Pickwaket : a level meadow lies in the foreground with an isolated, woody hill in the middle, and the Saco River, which rises on Mount Washington, and flows down a narrow valley, with many meanderings. The shortest road from Conway to the mountains leads directly to Bartlett : but the most travelled as well as the most agreeable route is by the way of Fryeburgh, where will be seen the beautiful tract of level country through which meanders the Saco River; and the great Pick- waket Mountain, which rises from its border. That was the beautiful and favourite residence of the nation of Pick- waket '. fought troops fi The mountai the chur three mi Ellis's . the cour the high in Adam miles to Fryei tent of a valley, 8< range ol Mount \ White t finds the turning i meadowi of no les townshij: The I side of tl valloy si: LoVEI east fron one of tl partizan TheP pond, an place of north sh( LoveV took a St the Pick French, tier, so t d one 1: any co accuston I «< ... ' 1 FRTEDURnH. 103 markets 1 are ro' ^en the ,h loose I abound am very hood, or 8t inter- y water, kins rise itinue in \g north- between of Red mworth. icleared ; of some scovered are bold dly from ad. ;6 Moun- iccession peaks of Monroe, he right, a level 1, woodv rises on ey, with ns leads II as the , where through bt Pick- hat was of Pick- i' i waket Indians, and on the bank of Lovcl's Pond wa? fought a bloody battle between them and a company of troops from Massachusetts, in the yenr 1725 The Chalybeate Spring in Conway ia in a volley, with mountains on every sidv. except the southeast. From near the church, the White Mountains arc in sight. Two or three miles above, the Saco valley bends to the left, and Ellis's River comes down a narrow vale in front. Up the course of this stream was formerly a route by which the highest peaks were ascended. A foot path leaves it in Adams, and goes on to Shelburne, &c. It is seven miles to Bartlett. Fryeburgh. The township of Fryeburgh, in its ex- tent of six square miles, embraces a rich and beautiful valley, secluded on every side by a wild and mountainous range of country. The Saco river, taking its rise on Mount Washington, and flowing through the Notch in the White Hills, passes down the valley to Conway, where it finds the termination of the southern range ; and then turning abruptly to the east, soon enters the charming meadows of Fryeburgh, and performs a serpentine course of no less than thirty-six miles within the limits of the township. The Indian Fort was on a gentle bill at the western side of the village, which commands a view of the Saco valloy six miles up its course, and six miles down. Lovel's Pond is on an isthmus, about one mile south- east from the village, and is memorable as the scene of one of the most severe and disastrous battles in the old partizan warfare against the Indians. The Portland road passes along the western side of the pond, and affords a view of its north end. This was the place of the action. Another road runs very near the north shore ; and it is a pleasant ride to the place. LoveVs Expedition, In 1725, Captain Lovel under- took a secret expedition through the wilderness against the Pickwaket tribe of Indians, who, instigated by the French, had committed many depredations on the fron- tier, so that the general court of Massachusetts had offer- d one hundred pounds each for their scalps. His com- any consisted of thirty or forty men, many of them accustomed to the life of hardy hur^tpr^ ^nd settlers, with vrfil f:^^'- •ill .!n'!',ft ti^! : "•'..•, I l!|:i i 'i^.\ 194 THK I5UNDATI0II OF 1826. yoiinc: ^fi". Fryo for thcii .;haplain, whoso history was somewhat romantic, and troin whom this town received its name. They pas^^ed up Winnip'soogco Lake, O^sipee Pond, the Saco, and encamped at the mouth of Mill Brook at the northwest corner of Lovel's I'ond. It happened that the Indians had gone down the Saco River, and on their re- turn, discovering tracks, pursued them towards Lovel's Tond ; and, having discovered the encampment, and the way they had gone, removed their packs, and forming an ambush around the place fired upon them on their re- turn, and killed eight men. The white men retreated to the northeast corner of the pond, where is a narrow strip of land, and defended themselves till right ; and the re- mains of the unfortunate expedition returned through the forest, suffering from hunger and fatigue, and some of them from wounds. A tremendous catastrophe occurred among the White Mountains on the night of Aug. 28th, 1826. A storm of rain, unprecedented within the memory of the oldest inhabitants, deluged the principal peaks of the moun- tains, and poured such an inundation upon the valleys and plains below, that it is commonly attributed to the " burst- ing of a cloud;" although that expression is a very ill defined one. The effects produced by the flood will re- main for centuries; and as many of these lie exposed to the eye, the route will offer many new objects interesting to an intelligent traveller. The inundation was so great and so sudden, that the channels of the streams were totally insufficient to admit of the passage of tlia water, which consequendy over- flowed the little level valleys at the feet of the mountains. Innumerable torrents immediately formed on all sides ; and such deep trenches were cut by the rushing water, that vast bodies of earth and stones fell from the moun- tains, bearing with them the forests that had covered them for ages. Some of these *' slides," as they are here popularly denominated, (known among the Alps as " ava^ lanches de terre,^^) are supposed to have been half a mile in breadth, and from one to five miles in length. Scarcely any natural ocuurrenco can be imagined more sublime ; and among the devustation which it has left to i I ^ll tofttify filled w arc con Tho titles of ed, wl ponds down, they w( with d( passed tains ; places, was bur rai feet, The try, was tirely A upon it cost on river rai The ] was the above ni rai days mountai alarm, v occupie( woman cation i had a i time ini eleven. the stoi avalanc in their ty, but One o( feet of overwh for son sides, 1 !'.. ■«..! 1 •I i pill' I IK p. r. THE WHITI MOUNTAINS. 195 trfttify the power of the olomptits, the traveller will bo tilled with awe at the thought of that Being, by whom they arc controlled and directed. Tho streams brought away with them immense quan- tities of ea''lh and sand, which the turbid water deposit- ed, when any obstacle threw it back, in temporary ponds and laKca. The forest trees were also lloiited down, frequent! ' several miles from the places where they were rooted up. The timber was often marked with deep grooves and trenches made by the rocks which passed over them during their descent from tho moun- tains ; and great heaps of trees were deposited in some places, while in others, the soil of the little meadows was buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the depth of seve- ral feet. The turnpike road leading through this romantic coun- try, was twenty miles in length, but was almost en- tirely destroyed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three bridges upon it were demolished; one of them, built with stone, cost one thousand dollars. In some places, the Saco river ran along the road, and cut down deep channels. The Notch House, (which is represented in the print,) was the Bcene of a most melancholy tragedy on the night above mentioned, when this inundation occurred. Seve- ral days previously a large " slide" cam'^ down from the mountains behind it, and passed so near as to cause great alarm, without any injury to the inmates. The house was occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, whose wife wr.s a young woman of a very interesting character, and of an edu- cation not to be looked for in so wild a region. They had a number of young children, and their family at the time included several other persons, amounting in all to eleven. They were waked in the night by the noise of the storm, or more probably, by the second descent of avalanches from the neighbouring mountains : and fled in their night clothes from the house to seek their safe- ty, but thus threw themselves in the way of destruction. One of the slides, 100 feet high, stopped within three feet of the house. Another took away the barn, and overwhelmed the family. Nothing was found of tliem for some time : their clothes were lying at their bed- sides, the house had been started on its foundation, by it *tr I.' t %' '' ' * 'I /-•J •I :i, !>■ •rl ■ r • i ■ * ■ -. n m 196 Crawford's farm. i an immense heap of earth and timber, which had shd down and stopped as soon as it touched it; and they had all been crushed on laaviiig tho door, or borne away with the water that overflowed the meadow. The bodies of several of thcin were never found. A catastro- phe so melancholy, and at the same time so singular in its circumstances, has hardly ever occurred. It will al- ways furnish the traveller with a melancholy subject of reflection. Bartlett is a comfortable village, situated in a rich valley, or interval, of about 300 pxres, where the view is bounded on every side by near and lofty mountains. There is another interval among th? mountains westward, which, although it contains as much good cleared land, has been converted into a common, in consequence of the difficulty of making a good road to it. Pursuing still the course of the naiTow valley, against the curreni^ of the Saco, the country is found uncleared, except t * o or three pretty little meadows; and destirite of inhabitants, excepting only three or four poor fami os, until arriving at Crawford's Farm, seven and a half miles south of the Notch. Here the traveller will, be comfortably enter- tained. The water rose in this house two feet in the flood of 1826. This is the place from which visiters formerly began their excursions to the summit of the mountains. Prospect Mountain, one of the principal peaks, pre- sents itself to view a little before arriving at the first Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown moss, rising several hundred feet above the region of vegetation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes these from the other elevations. The climate in this narrow valley is still so warm as to favour the growth of various trees which are scarcely to be found a few miles further north. The forests are here formed of spruce, ash, beech, maple, sugar maple, and Indian corn grows well, which will not come to maturity beyond. The orchard contains hundreds of apple trees. This is one of the principal stopping places for the sleighs, which pass the mountains in great number during the winter, for Portland, Boston, &c. Nancy^s Hill is a small elevation a few miles north of tliis place. In 1773 a young woraan of respectable con- I ; i bad slid nd they borne V. The latastro- igular in will al- ibject of ti a rich view is . There , which, las been ifficulty ;ourse of aco, the e pretty tcepting south of y enter- :he flood formerly tains, ks, pre- Lhe first f brown gion of iguishes *m as to 3ly to be ire here )le, and naturity e trees, for the : during lorth of Ao con- THZ WHITE MOUNTAINS, 197 nexions, who accompanied a family of settlers to Dart- mouth, (now Jefferson,) set out in the winter to return to Portsmouth, alone and on foot, her lover having promised to meet her there and marry her. There was then no house nearer than Bartlett, 30 miles. Nancy was found by some travellers in this spot, frozen and covered with ice, under a shelter formed of branches of trees, which was the only shelter to be found on the way. The Notch House is situated in a secluded little valley, about 5 miles north of Crawford's, and is the only build- ing seen in a distance of 12 miles. It has sometimes been uninhabited during the summer season, though open to all comers : in the winter a family occupies it to keep a nre, lodgings, and a little food, provided for the travellers and wagoners, who might otherwise perish for want of the necessaries of life. See page 135. Tho climate is so cold, that the land was not worth culti- vating ; and although the place had been occupied by several tenants, no one will keep the house in repair, even rent free. There are no good uplands, the soil there be- ing all gravel : and the climate is sensibly colder than at the last stopping place. Then3 is a place near the Notch, where the road suffer- ed severe injury. It had been built up against the side of a mountain, on a wall 40 or 50 feet high, and about 30 yards in extent, at the expense of $500. This whole fabric was swept away by a mass of earth, rocks and trees, which came from a half a mile up the side of the moun- tain, and, rushing down at an angle of about 45 deg. pre- cipitated itself into the bed of the Saco, which is nearly 300 feet below. In repairing this road in the winter, the workmen had great difficulty in getting over the obstructions. They ex- pected to find but little daylight at that late season of the year ; but they found that the summits of the mountains received very early intelligence of morning, and the snows reflected it into the valleys and ravines. The road rises with a steep ascent for a considerable distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller ob- serves two cataracts, one pouring down a p-ecipitous mountain at a distance on the west side of the valley, and the other, which is called 1 ' ■ "vi if 11 lifiii-' .■, ■ . Y. ' ■■•■■ '■: i\ V 4 198 Mount washinotow. The Flume, rushing down on the right hand, and crossing the road under a bridge. The scenery is sub- lime and impressive beyond description. Just beyond is another Flume. About 150 yards beyond is the first great slide seen in coming from the Notch. The Notch is so narrow as to allow only room enough for the path and the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four feet in breadth. It is remarkable that the Saco end the Ammonoosuc spring from fountains on Mount "Washington, within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, though the former empties into the Atlantic, and the latter joins Connecticut River. Another branch of the Ammo- noosuc approaches the Saco in one place, within about €00 yards. They are both crossed beyond the Notch. The head waters of the Merrimack rise within about a mile and a half of this place ; and run down a long ravine, little less remarkable than that of the Saco. A road was first made through the Notch in 1785. It was 50 or 60 feet higher than the pres nt turnpike, and so steep that it was necessary to draw horses and wagons up with ropes. The assessment for the turnpike was made in 1806. Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable pas- sage, one 20, and the other about 30 feet, in perpendicu- lar height. They arc about 20 feet asunder, at 6 or 7 yards from the north end ; where they open to 30 feet. The part which appears to have been cut through is about 120 feet long. A little meadow opens beyond ; where is an inn, at which the traveller is advised to stop. This is the place where those who meditate the ascent of Mount Washington, will stop for a day or more. The master of the house will furnish a guide. Mount Washington. The ascent of the mountain was formerly a most arduous undertaking, and was very rarely performed, but several ladies have lately been enumerated mong those who have gained the summit The whole way lies through a perfect forest. The first four miles are over a surface comparatively level; but the last two miles and a quarter are up an ascent not differing much from an angle of forty-five degrees. The tin feion may To the thence to returning the inn, 1 The str be crossec tion of 18 The C produced, travellers dish of fin little stref encampm The ast most ard pummit, \ deems it a new an way is th suddenly trees, 10 broad ; w place to 8 moss, not rocks whi the surfac gling spic ure the oi feet. The fo different ] at Lancai Washu Madison, Mount feet abovi In a cl boundless and soutl road has ■u,r ■ THE WIIITB MOUNTAINS 199 *rhe time to perform the diflbrcnt parts of this excur- sion may be estimated as follows : To the base of Mount Washington, 4 miles, 1 hour ; thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods, 2 or 2 5 hours ; returning from the summit to the base, 1^ hours ; thence to the inn, 1 hour. The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which are to be crossed seven times, show the ravages of the inunda- tion of 1826. The Camp. — Here provisions of different kinds will be produced, and even cooked by a cheerful fire ; and if the travellers are sportsmen, and the season is favourable, a dish of fine troi]t may soon be obtained from the romantic little stream which dashes by within twenty yards of the encampment. The ascent of Mount Washington is laborious, and the most arduous exertion will be necessary to attain the Fummit, which seems to fly before the stranger when he deems it just attained, and to look down in derision from a new and more hopeless height. The first part of the way is through a thick forest of heavy timber, which id suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and gnarled fir trees, 10 or 15 feet high, and 80 rods, or about 450 yards broad ; which, ending as suddenly as they began, give place to a kind of short bushes, and finally a thin bed of moss, not half sufficient to conceal the immense granite rocks which deform the surface. For more than a mile, the surface is entirely destitute of trees. A few strag- gling spiders, and several species of little flowering plants, are the only objects that attract the attention, under the feet. The following heights are stated to be those of the different peaks, above the level of the Connecticut River at Lancaster : Washmgton, 5,350 ; Jefferson, 5,261 ; Adams, 5,183 ; Madison, 5,039 ; Monroe, 4,932 ; Quincy, 4,470. Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6,400 feet above the ocean. In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and almost boundless. The finest part of it is towards tlie southeast and south. Looking down the valley, through which the road has conducted us, a fine succession of mountainous 18 if If i «r' U ;! 1. i ■**;■ ■:!■ -i- , ■• ,1. !'5 r'M..*' I' ;!••' ■V. # < [!] \k \V-A\>^^^ 200 VIEW KROM MOUNT WASHINGTON. summits appear for many miles, extending below the bright surface of Winipiseogee Lake. Towards the southeast also, the eye ranges over an ex- tent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. Moun- tains, hills, and valleys, farm-houses, villages, and towns, add their variety to the natural features of the country ; and the ocean may be discovered at the horizon with the help of a telescope, although the sharpest sight perhaps has never been able to distinguish it without such assist- ance. In that direction lies Portland, the capital of Mamc ; and nearer, LoveVs Pond. On the northeast is seen the valley of the Androscog- gin River, which abounds in wild and romantic scenery, and was the usual passage by which the Indians, in their hostile incursions from Canada, used to approach the eastern frontier settlements of Massachusetts and New- Hampshire. Beyond, are the Ktardin Hills, near the extremity of Maine. North, the country is more wild and uncultivated } and Umbagog Lake is seen, from which flows the An- droscoggin. West, the nearer view is over a mountainous region, covered with a thick forest, through which only an occa* sional opening is perceived, formed by the farms (or clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the hills are seen to rise from the opposite shore of Connecticut River, the surface of which is everywhere hidden from view, and the summits, rising higher and higher, terminate in the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont. South-westerly is seen the Grand Monad nock. The Indians knew the White Mountains by the namei of Agiocochook, and regarded them as inaccessible, or at least represented them so to white men. The Lake of the Clouds is a little pond, near the summit of Mount Monroe, of beautiful clear water ; and supplies \he head stream of the Ammonoosuc River. This little current immediately begins its descent, and dashes in a headlong course of several thousand feet> into the valley near the encampment. Loose fragments of granite are everywhere scattered over the mountain, with some specimens of gneiss. Tlie granite is generally gray, and at first fine-gruined, but grows c( with sm a little b On the red, altl: ens, dan spersed coarse as very in its or moval ; the nort the mou Gene' will be ( sive scei Altho in Main Washin« with litt now see est elev of the R climate ment ; s lonely a creased derness The ( of the n gle fami the inte few veg of grow the shoi of keep support fare, wV Populal regions cannot coldnei le bright !r an ex- Mnun- 1 towns, "ountry ; with the perhaps h assist* ipital of droscog" scenery, in their ach the d New- lear the tivatcd } the An- region, an occa« •ms (or hills are t River, n view, inate in e name e, or at 2ar the sr; and r. This dashes nto the lattered . The 3d, but THK WHITE MOUNTAINS. 201 grows coarser as we accend, and is occasionally sprinkled with small garnets. At the summit it frequently contains a little black tourmaline, sometimes in crossing crystals. On the summit, also, some of the granite is tinged with red, although much of it is coloured bright green by lich- ens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, and inter- spersed with thick and soft gray moss. The grain of the coarse granite is elongated ; and what strikes the visiter as very singular, is, that not a single rock is to be found in its original place — every thing bears the ma»'k of re- moval ; and this, taken into view with the precipice on the northern side, seems to indicate that the summit of the mountain has fallen down and disappeared. General Remarks. — All travellers of taste and leisure will be desirous of spending some time among the impres- sive scenery of these stupendous mountains. Although the peaks of Ktardin and Speckled Mountain, in Maine, have been, by some, compared with Mount Washington, it has been done on mere conjecture, and with little appearance of probability. The general belief now seems to Se, that the lofty peak above us is the high- est elevation in North America, except Mexico, and some of the Rocky Mountains. The inhospitable nature of the climate is such as to forbid all hopes of future improve- ment ; so that the feeling of sublimity, produced by the lonely and desolate character of this desert region, is in- creased by the reflection, that it is destined to be a wil- derness for ever. The only places susceptible of cultivation in the heart of the mountains, are the little meadows inhabited by sin- gle families, and that at the ** Notch House ;^' and there the interval of warm weather is so short in the year, that few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with all the rapidity of growth which distinguishes such cold regions. Indeed, the shortness and uncertainty of crops, with the expense of keeping stock, &c. would scarcely allow the farmer a support, without the advantages afforded by the thorough- fare, which is particularly great during the winter season. Population, therefore, may extend to the borders of these regions, and increase, as it does, on every side; but it cannot pass the limit, because it cannot contend with their coldness and sterility. "i'.u ^ i tj ^ •'.;!• :■ -4^ .. :" ::i* m . ^! It 1'' ■y • 'IH 1 202 ROADS. Various kinds of wild birds and game are to be found in the woods, besides bear.><, wild cats, and deer. Tho moose and buffalo were formerly abundant among the mountains ; and it is scarcely thirty years since they were killed in great numbers, merely for their hides and tallow; as the latter still are in the deserts beyond tho Mississippi. Deer are common in the woods, and frec^uently are killed by tho hunters. Sometimes they come boldly down into the little meadow before Ethan Crawford's house, and quietly graze with the cattle. Black bears are occasion- ally seen in the more unfrequented places, bat they will always endeavour to avoid a man A large species of elk, here known by the name of the Cariboo, has made its appearance in the White Mountains within a few years, but they are still very scarce in this part of the country. The weather is liable to frequent changes in the moun- tainous region, which is partly owing to the vicinity of tha Notch, through which the wind blows, almost without ceasing, even when the air is perfectly still at only a short distance from it From the situation of the mountains, it is impossible that the direction of the wirKi should vary materially in the valley ; and it is therefore, of course, al- ways north or south. During the winter it is often very violent, so that not only the snow is prevented from lying on the path at the Notch ; but the surface is swept of every thing that a strong wind can remove. The summits of the mountains are frequently invested with mist, when the sky is clear ; and those only who in- habit the vicinity, are able to tell whether the day is to be favourable for the ascent. The mists sometimes collect in the valleys, and then present some of the most singular and beautiful appearances. Roads. There are two roads hence to Connecticut Ri ver; one over Cherry Mountain (quite laborious) to Lan- caster; the other shorter, through Breton Woods, Beth- lehem and Littleton, (rough and stony,) to Bath, 34 miless* [See Index ] Steam Bath, Ea direction Salem 6 Kingstot 14. Yo Saco 10, Do. by 6, Salem Boar's H bunk 12, land 10. The b( *he shore merous h coast. Theie morning to take a at least a would be place, pai Lynn, making i ported, little sho] employ t The I made, is able rett excellent The bay famous s The c but the r Bevei apparent through tYNX. 203 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. ,« P Steam Navigation extends from Boston to Portland, Bath, Eastport, and about 40 miles to Augusta in another direction, 128 miles. Railroad(144 m.) through Lynn 10, Salem 5, Beverly 2, Rowley 13, Newburyport 3, East Kingston, N.H. 11. Stagecoaches to Exeter 4, Portsmouth 14. York, (Maine) 9, Wells 16, Kennebunk Point 6, Saco 10, Portland 16. Do. by Steamboats^ 126 m. Nahant 10, Marblehead 6, Salem 3, Gloucester 8, Cape Ann, 10, Newbury 16, Boar's Head Point 7, Portsmouth 12, York 6, Kenne- bunk 12, Fletcher's Neck 12, Cape Elizabeth 13, Port- land 10. The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so near *he shore as to afford many interesting views of the nu- merous islands, points, and bays, which abound along the coast. Theie are coaches going to Salem every hour in the morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, be convtnient to take a seat in one of them, as Salem is well worthy of at least a day's delay. Indeed, if convenient, the stranger would be gratified with several rides in the vicinity of that place, particularly to Marblehead. Lynn, 9 miles from Boston, This town is devoted to making shoes ; great numbers of which are annually ex- ported. Each house, almost without exception, has a little shop connected with it, in which the men and boys employ themselves in this manufacture. The Lynn Beach, of which mention has before been made, is in this town, and lies on the way to the fashion- able retreat at Nahant It is of hard sand, offering an excellent natural road, but is impassable at high water. The bay on which it looks is one of the places where the famous sea serpent was eeen several years ago. The country beyond is rather hilly and uninteresting ; but the road is good. Beverly is a town which joins Salem so closely, as apparently to form a part of it. It has a long street through which we pass, nearly at the foot of a high, bar- 18* ! • V 'it^'*!'; mm ir'i ': 204 SALEM. ren hill. This eminence is retTiarkabln in the history of witchcraft ; as it is the spot where numerous persona con- demned for that crime, in Salem, were executed. Salkm. This is one of the most populous, wealthy, and beautiful towns in New-England. It was one of the earliest settlements made in Masjiachusetts Bay ; and the planting of tiie colony is annually celebrated. Go« vernor Endicott, one of the most distinguished indivi- duals l)\ the early history of this part of the cour>try, re- j>. " i' h.-^re. ' *alfc;i, was for many yea's engaged in an extensive and luc:ative .\ nimerce, particularly with China ; and thtfi appearance of the town is sufficient to show that it still contains a great deal of wealth. The harbour is fine, and the wharves still well supplied with scores. The streets are generally too narrow ; but the banks, insnranco offices, and churches, are many of them handsome buildings. Tiie Square is a large and beautiful tract of ground, near the centre of the town. About it are seen many of the finest private buildings in the place. The Marine Museum is an institution highly creditable to the town, under an association of respectable nautical and commercial individuals, formed for the purpose of making useful observations, and collecting curiosities from all quarters of the world. No one can become a member who has not doubled Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, either as master or supercargo of a vessel ; and each of them is supplied with a journal, in which he is to note down such remarks as he thinks important, during his voyages. These are submitted to the inspec- tion of a committee; and the curiosities brought home are deposited in a handsome building belonging to the society, which is well worthy the particular attention of strangers. Access is readily gained by application to any of the members ; this extensive and highly interesting cabinet being closed only for the purpose of security, and no fee being required for admission. The room is large, well lighted, and filled with curiosities from all quarters of the world, and many specimens belonging to all the branches of natural history. The arrangement is made with great I.' FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. 1205 taste, and several honra, or indeed days, will hardly be sufficient for an exuinination of all itconiains. Tiie following lines were written after a visit to this in- ereating Institu'ion, by Beltrami, a diatinguished wcientific traveller, in the year 1827. *' Siste Viator! Siste, mirare ! est Orhis in urbe, " Et pracbet pulchruni cuncia miranda Salem. — *'C)b3tupui, hic Superum, hnic hommum prodigia vidi, •'Pontus, Magna Parens, Ignis et Ipse favent. — *' Oh America : Oh, felix toUus, populusquc beatus ! " Quum nobis toiiunt dant tibi i'uta viccm. — <il.ii ■' ■*K'lM ' • •< » i #; V ■d • » MAKBLEHEA.D. Thofo is a good road \o » is town, which stands at the end of a rocky promc tory, 4 miles southeast from Salom. It is principally inhabited by fishermen, whose miinner of life precludes, ^n a great de- gree, the intellectual improvement gener-illy so character- istic of New-England. The harbour is small bay, pro- tected by barren rocks, and atibrds shelter to the numer- ous fishinj^r s*chooner3 employed in the Cod fishery. The men and boys are absent from home a great part of the year; as each vessel usually makes three fishing voyages, or ** fares " as they are here called, every season. They lie on the Banks untd they have caught a load of fish, which are opened and salted as soon as taken. The ves- sels then return, and the fish are spread to dry on wooden frames, called flakes ; great numbers of which will be seen on the shore. A few vessels still go to the Labrador coast for fish. There is a fort at the extremity of the town, which commands the entrance to the harbour, and affords a view of many miles over the neighbouring sheets of water. The islands at the entrance of Salem are wild and rocky ; and the sea breaks over them with violence in an easterly storm. Towards the south are seen several headlands of this iron-bound coast ; which, for a great extent, even down to the extremity of Massachusetts, must have appeared one of the most inhospitable to the pilgrims, who began their settlements on this part of New- England. Nkwburyport. Stage House, or Merrimack Hotel, on the hill. Tiiis is a lar^e, and to a considerable extent, 'It*' :• *i i«K< ^'. ' ?'' i'l Mi : • 206 AMESnURY. a regularly built town, 38 miles from Boston. TIjc p'cnlrr port of it lies in squares, and the best streets are entirely of brick. What is commonly called Newburyport, how- ever, is composed of two distinct towns. The onginal township of Newbury includes that part, which reaches to within about a quarter of a mile of the shore; and tho rest is all which is properly speaking called Newbury- port. The harbour is fine, and the place once enjoyed n brisk and lucrative commerce. The bridge over the Merrimack, is a most beautiful structure. Its length is 1000 feet; and it has four arches and a drawbridge, on the side towards the town. The arches are supported by twelve chains, carried over four towers in the form of ])yramids, 31 feet above high water mark The bases of these towers are of hewn stone, 40 by 30 feet, built on limber, each with a breakwater up the stream. The chains, separately, are strong enough to bear 22 tons. The bridge, with the road to Newburyport, cost $«G,000. Hampton, 10 miles. At Hampton Beach is a good hotel, which commands an ngreeable view upon the ocean, and the shore about the Boar's Head. Portsmouth, 62 miles from Boston, 58 from Portland. The environs of the town show many neat and pleasant houses of wood ; and the middle part of it is principally of brick, with some handsome public buildings, although the streets are generally too narrow. It has been a place of much commerce. The Navy Yard, on an island op- posite the town, contains two large ship buildings, one for frigates and the other ior line-of-battle ships. The bridge across the Piscataqua, leads into the state of Maine, which was, until within twenty years, a dis- trict of Massachusetts. The current is very strong. The navy yard is seen on the east, with the ship houses, &c. Amesbury is a manufacturing place on the PowoW river, 3 miles from Newburyport. The river is made to drain several ponds by an arched tunnel made through a hill about a century ago. The country on this road is of a gently rolling form, generally very poor, without trees, and changing only from sand to rookie le state a dig- The rnoM nosTON to Maine. 207 York. Tlioro aro somo pleasant fields about tlii^ little place, hut its size is iiisi^nififaut, when contrasted with thu anticipations formed of its destiny at the time of its first settlement: fi)r the irronnd was laid out for a r\t\, and tho divisions of tlie hind still retain much of the rceulur form given it hy the lirst survt^yors. The Nubble is a rocky j»oint, 4^ miles from York, with a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, culled, ia derision, the city, or nu^tropohs of Cape Neildock, from a point of tluit name still further on. While travelling- along this dreary countrv near tho road passes the site of an old fort or bloc!, liouse, built before I'liilip's war. Tho Agamenticus Hills form a range some distance west. LowKH Welles. There is a little harbour here, de- fended by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance under a rock ; but it is almost dry at low water. Welles. The sea often breaks beautifully on the iSeach, in front of the tavern. Porpoise Point is just dis- tinguishable in the northeast ; and the view of the sea is fine and refreshing. Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hill, over which falls a small stream, from the height of 30 feet, about 40 yards from the path. The Fort was half a mile beyond, or a quarter of a mile north from the church. This little fortress was once attacked by 500 Indians, who at first supposed, as was the fact, that the men were absent from home. The ])lace was, however, very brave- ly and successfully defended by five women, who put on their husbands' clothes.- • Kennebunk, li5 miles from Portland, is a small place, which once carried on a considerable lumber trade with the West Indies. Saco, fifteen miles from Portland. Just south of this village is the mouth of the Saco, which rises on Mount Washington. Cutts's Island of 75 acres divides the stream, just at the falls. Portland, 15 miles. The situation of this place is remarkably fine, occupying the ridge and side of a high point of land with a haadisome, though shallow bay, ou one i: '*'! ; 1 ! <-|»ll i 1 « ( \ i ■ ■•9 1- '• »^'« J f ^' ■ : ■!* if Y'l a • VI 'I Hi' 208 PORTLAND. |sf < side, and the harbour on tho other. The anchorage in protected on every side by land, the water is d(«ep, and tho communication with the himi direct and convenient. Con- gress-street run? along tho riilge of the hill, nnd contains a number of very elegant piivute houses. There is also the Town Hall, with tho market below, and a beautiful new church, with granite columns. Tho steps are fino blocks of granite, G feet by 9, brought from the quarry at Brunswick, 22 miles distant. From the Observatory, south and southwest, are se- veral distant endtK nce8 : among others, tho Agamenticus Hills ; northwest are seen, in clear weather, the lofty ridges and peaks of the White Hills in New-Hampshire, which are discovered at sea, often before the nearer land appears in sight. Cape Elizabeth is tho high land on the south side of the harbour; and the islands, which nearly close its en- trance, are called Bangs's and House Islands. Fort Preble stands on the former, and Fort Scammel, only a block house, on the latter. Due east is Seguin Light House, which is visible in clear weather, 32 miles distant, at the mouth of the Kennebec. Nearer, and in the same quarter, lie numerous islands of various forms. Tho intrenchments on the hill, west of the Observatory, belong to Fort Sumner, and part of them were made in the Revolutionary war. Under the bluff, on the water's edge, is Fort Burroughs. Portland (the former name was Falmouth) was burnt in the Revolutionary war by Capt. Mowatt, in the British sloop of War Canceau, on the 18ih of October, 1775, on the refusal of the inhabitants to deliver up their arms. About 130 houses, three quarters of all the place con- tained, were consumed, some being set on fire with brands, after a cannonade and bombardment of nine hours. The old church is among the buildings saved, and has tho mark of a cannon shot in it. A small part of Mitchell's hotel belonged to one of the houses not destroyed. There are some fine stores and dwelling houses in the middle of the town, and the shore is lined with wharves and shipping. There is a small Museum. Remarks to the Traveller at Portland, Bostoa coaches leave here every morning. % : "~ .«■• hi ROITRS IN MAINE. 202 :>rago i» unci tho . Con- contains i is also jcautiful are fino uarry at are 8e- nenticus he lofty Tipshire, rer land I side of I its en- Fort , only a n Light distant, he same rvatory, made in water's as burnt British 775, on r arms. ,ce con- brands, N. The has tho itchell's s in the .vharves Bostoii u The communiouion with Dover, Concord, Sec. is easy, ttnd tho travcllci* goitif^ in that diri'rtiofi is n'lorrofj to the index for tho?o and other places in liis way. He may take tho route to the White Mills by Kryeburgh ; the road leads through a wild and thinly populated country, but is not devoid oi' mtorest. The stagecoach readies Conway in a day by this route, passing through Gorham, Standish, Baldwin, Hiram, and Fryt^burgli. The eastern and noriheasiern routes only, remain to be spoken of. The road along the sea coast is more un- interesting, passing over a rocky soil, and is recommended in going from Portland. The upper road leads through a considerablp extent of fertile country, indeed the garden of Maine, and shows several pleasant and flouriBhing vil- lages, by which it may be more agreeable to return. Remarks on the Country Northeast from Portland. In consequence of the position, the climate, and soil of Maine, the improvement of the country has been much retarded. Settlements were made on the coast as early as 1G07, and several others not long afterwards ; but they sufT'ered severely in the Indian wars ; and their vi- cinity to the French mission^i, which embraced all the eastern part of the present state, exposed them to immi- nent dani,er. In later times the population was princi- pally confined to the sea coast, for the convenience of fishing and commerce ; and thus the good land, which lies some distance back in the country, was almost entirely neglected. After the Revolutionary war, this extensive region remained in the condition of a district belonging to Massachusetts. In 1820, it was received into the Union us a separate state; and agriculture having been intro- duced, the etnigration from the neighbouring states has rapidly swelled its population. Tn travelling in Maine, the stranger observes the same ord n- of things as in the interior of New-York, Ohio, and other parts of the country, which are fast improving. It is but a few years since agriculture was almost unknown here, and now the interior region between the Kennebec and Penobscot rivers is well peopled, and presents a scene of rural cultivation and prosperity rarely equalled. That is of course the most attractive route for the traveller ; and the road from Portland lies through Augusta and |; ". Ii i ' ' . >? :' ■ •»' • , 1. > 4 •! i '* • \.:t \ a r.' ■;■!. '■ ilii '111 II- . I" 'r ' O! 210 STEAMBOATS. IlnllowelL Tlinso wlio arc ffoing to New-Brunswick/ <^(\ aro advised lo tnko thir^ route, ivnlci^s they prefer th« less fatiguina: mode of travelling!: in the sr.-ainboat. Most persons going- eastward from Portland, will wish to return; and the brief tour which we i^hall give will bo planned for their convenience and pleasure, by proceeding first along the sea coast, and then rcturnng through the fine tract of country in the interior. It may be proper here to mention, that two roads have been projected to Quebec ; one by the river Kennebec, and the other by the Penobscot. At present there are no roads through the northern wilderness, though a commu- nication has been kept up that way for several years, and herds of cattle are occasionnlly driven into Canada. The hardy and enterprising traveller may, perhaps, be wiliincr to encounter the inconvenience of lodging in the open air, and such fare as the wilderness affords ; but few will at- tempt the route for pleasure, until the intended improve- ments shall have been made. The distances of the principal places on the routes from Portland are as follov.'s : Routes from Portland. To Boston, see page 203. To the White Hills and Connecticut river, by daily stage- coaches, \Vostbrook, Gorham, Standish, Baldwin, Hiram, Brownsfield, Fryeburgh, Conway, (from Portland 62 m.) Bartlett, Hart's Location, Old Crawford's Notch House, Notch, Notch Meadow, E. A. Crawford's. Thence two roads ; one to Lancaster, and the other through Nash and Sawyer's Location, by Rosebrook's, in Britton Woods, and through Littleton to Bethlehem, 48 miles from Con- way. From Portland to Quebec, 258 miles. N. Yarmoii<^h, 12 ; Freeport, G ; Brunswick, 9 ; Bowdoinham, 13 ; Gard- ner, 11; Hallowell, 4; Augusta, 3; Sidney, 12: Water ville, 5 ; Norridgcwock, 16 ; Solon, 20 ; Moscow, 13 ; Kennebec river, 17 ; Monumet, 48 ; St. Joseph, 54 ; St. Henry, 28; Quebec, 12. From Portland to Eascport, 23.' miles. Brunswick, (as above,) 27; Bath, 7; Wiscasset, 15; Waldoborough, 18 ; Warren, 9 ; Thomaston, 4; Camden, 11 ; Belfast, 18 ; Castiiie, (in a boat,) 9; Bluehill, 10; Ellsworth, 14 j ^\^, prefer thw t. will wish ve will be roceeding rough the oads havp Kennebec, ere are no a com mil- years, and ida. The be willing open air, ;w will at* L improve- tlic routes 203. To lily stage- in, Hiram, nd 62 m.) ch House, lence two Nash and n Woods, Tom Con- Yarmoiith, 13 ; Gard- l: Water cow, 13 ; 54; St. 5 runs wick, oborough, .^Itast, 18 ; 'orth, 14 ; t' ROUTES O MAIKE. 211 Franklin, 12 ; Cherryfield, 20 ; Columbia, 12 ; Machias, 15 ; Whiting, 15 ; Eastport, 15. Travelling rend to the head of Casco Bay, you pass through North larmouth and Freeport, and arrive at Brunswick, 2G miles. This is the site of Bowdoin Col- lego, the principal institution of the state. There is a fill on the Androscoggin river at this pla«e; below which booms are extended across to keep together the lumljer which is brought down every season in great quantities. The whole road from Portland to Bath, thirty-four miles, lies along the coast, where the soil is rocky and poor, Bath is a town of considerable trade, situated on the Kennebec, at the distance of sixteen miles from the sea. Here -e several public buildings, and among the rest two h. :!,?:. Woolwich is opposite Bath. WisCASSfiT, 14 miles from Bath. This is one of the principal ports oi the state, and has an excellent harbour at the mouth of the Sheepscot River. Stagecoaches run north to Bangor, on the Penobscot. They pass through Newcastle, Nobleborough, Waldobo- rough, Union, Appleton, Searsmont, and Belmont. There are two branch lines: one to Ihomastown through War- ren; and another to Hamden, through Camden, Lincoln- shire, Northport, Belfast, Swanville, and Frankfort. From Wiscasset to Damascotta is rough and rocky ; but the ride presents many interesting views, as the land- scape is continually changing, and is often varied by the sight of Damascotta River, and several beautiful little lakes or ponds. Booth Bay lies off the road from Wiscasget to Dama- scotta. It has a commodious harbour, with a number of islands in the vicinity ; and the neighbouring high ground affords a very fine and extensive view. The hill, on the eastern side of the bay, was surveyed for a city in the early part of the last century, which was to have borne the name of Townsend, but the building of it was never begun. The harbour has been considered a good site for a naval depot. Antiquities, Two or three miles off the road, between IP' *i'j .. ; ' :!!' M ■■■■ .•■■;. J.* ■•! ■t i:'i2 WALDOBOROUaH. I Linniken'g Bay and Damascotta River, where was for- merly an Indian carrying place, the remains of cellar walls and chimneys are found, as also broken kettles, wedges, &c. At the head of the bay are the hulks of two or three large vessels sunk in the water ; and on the shore, the ruins of an old grist mill, where the present one stands. On the islands opposite the town, are other ruins, the history of which is unknown, as well as that of those already mentioned. The only fact which seems to afford any guide to their origin, is, that Sir John Popham made an attempt to build a town at the mouth of the Ken- nebec, in the year 1607. VValdoborough, 10 miles; Warren, 7 miles; Thomas- towi', Central Village, 6 miles. Here are quarries of rnarbic^ a.;d limestone, from the latter of which about 100,000 bprrels of lime are made every year for exporta- tion. '1 tie marble is also wrought in considerable quanti- ties. A visit to the workshops may be interesting, as the operation of polishing is performed by machinery nioved by water. There is a cotton manufactory on Mill River. The village is fifteen miles from the sea. The State Prison stands in a commanding and plea- sant situation. It has solitary cells, built of granite, in blocks from four to six feet in length, and two in thick- ness. Each cell has an opening at the top, with small holes in the walls for the admission of fresh air, which, during the winter season, is warmed before it is admitted. The warden's house is also built of granite, and is two stories high, placed in the middle, with a row of cells on each side. The prison yard is surrounded by a circular M'ooden paling, and encloses nearly three acres, in which is a lime quarry. Several workshops on the ground serve the purposes of the convicts, who are employed in burning lime and other manufactures. The Knox Estate. About half a mile from the State Prison is the ancient residence of the late General Knox. From Thomastoivn to Belfast, (thirty miles, j the road is hard, and commands many views of Penobscot Br^, with a few islands on the right, and a partially cultivated country on the loft, with some mountainous scenes. Bel- fast is a flourishing port, pleasantly situated on the side of a hill. The road hence to Castine, round the bay, i? ^■"^■^ was for* of cellar 1 kettles, hulks of nd on the e present are other as that of seems to I Popham f the Ken- 1 Thomas- larries of ich about r exporta- )le quanti- ng, as the ry moved [ill River. and plea- jranite, in in thick- ith small ir, which, admitted, .nd is two )f cells on a circular in which und serve n burning the State ill Knox, the road cot Bfy, ultivated es. Bel- the side le bay^ ii? ROUTZ 15 MAINE, 213 thirty«five miles, passing through Prospect, Buckport, Orland rnd Penobscot. Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, and the British inirenchments are to be seen on the hili above. Eastport is important as the frontier post of the Unit- ed States on the sea coast towards the British possessions. It is on the southeastern part of Moose Island, in Passa- maquoddy Bay, and connected with the main land by a bridge. The spot was almost uninhabited thirty years ago ; but now it contains three places of worship. There are fortifications and a few troops. A line of steamboats is established between this place and Boston, touching at Portland, &,c. Lubec is situated nearihe entrance of the Bay, opposite Campobello. Perry, the village of the Passamaquoddy Indians, lies northward from Eastport On the Schoodic River the land is high, and the scenes striking. Robbinston stands at its mouth ; and Calais twelve miles above, at the head of navigation. The coun- try north and west of this place is said to be very valuable for grazing, being undulating, with a good soil and climate, and at present well wooded, with conveniences for trans- portation by sea. The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the course of the Penobscot River. Bangor is a very flourishing village, newly risen into importance, in consequence of having taken a good deal of the interior trade from Belfast. It occupies a command- ing position for this object, and is undoubtedly destined to experience a great and rapid increase, proportioned to the extension of settlements in the upper country. The scenery here begins to assume much of that mountain- ous character, which prevails so extensively through a large part of the interior. A very conspicuous and noble eminence is observed at a distance in the north, called Ktardin Mountain, the elevation of which has never, it is believed, been accurately ascertained. It is considered the highest land in the state, and has been compared for altitude with Mount Washington in New-Hampshire. In the vear 1825. the land atrents visited a tract of i '■■' ■ ■■<■ 1, i r !.;. * ^i d '_ ■•': t ■ i -.*> ■ ( ■!; i'ii m #•••. ' 214 PEGIPSCOT Fi-LLS. m country inhabited by about two thou and pcracns, who had been before unknown as belonging to the state, hav- ing never been represented in the legislature, or included in any census. They are partly descendants of refugees, and partly half-pay officers, Irish and Scotch. 7'he vast tract of wilderness intervening between them and the lower country had prevented intercourse. Tht ir country is rich and beautiful, on the St. .Tohn's River, near the boundary of New Brunswick ; and many of them desired ^-■^ be received into the jurisdiction of the State Govern- lent. The question has since caused much excite- tnent. From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, taking the route through the finest part of the state of Maine. The road to Augusta and Hallowell on the Kennebec, lies through a region rapidly improving under the ma- nagement of an active, industrious, and increasing popu- lation. Augusta is the capital of the state, a considerable town, and very flourishing. It is situated at the falls of the Kennebec, where the water on the descent of the channel is sufficient to set in motion several hundred wheels. At the mouth of this river, at Georgetown, berj'ls have been found, in a ridge of granite countryo Some are fifteen inches long and six thick. They are associ- ated with schorl. Pegifscot FaUs-. Near Lewistown, on the Andros- coggin River, is n r 'viarkable cataract, where the cur- rent breaks through a range of mountains, and pours over a broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and striking, and derives an additional interest, from its con- nexiou with the history of a tribe of Indians long since extinct. According to a tradition current in the neighbourhood, the upper parts of this stream were formerly the resi- dence of the Rockmego Indians, who inhabited a fine and fertile plain through which the river winds. The situation was remote, and they had never engaged in any hostilities with the whites, but devoted themselves to hunting and fishing. The ground still contains many remain, of their weapons, utensils, &c. They were, however, at length persuaded to engage in a hostile in- P' WASTimaroM, d. c. Sin ens, who Late, hav- included refugees, The vast and the r country near the n desired ! Govern- h excite- id, taking »f Maine. Cennebcc, the ma- ing popu- ible town, lis of the e channel eels. n, beryls Some ?e associ- Andros- the cur- id pours wild and its con- )na; since ourhood, the resi- d a fine :s. The gaged in emselves ins many ;y were, astile in- ' -5 1 cursion against Brunswick, at that time an exposed frontier settlement; and the whole tribe cml)arked in their canoes to accomplish the enterprise. The stream flows gently on for a great distance, until it approaches very near to the falls ; and this was the spot apponitcd for the night encampment Night set in before their arrival j and they sent two men forward to make fires upon lh« banks a little above the cataract. For some unknown reason, the fires were kindled below the falls ; and ihu Indians, being thus deceived concerning their situation, did not bring up their canoes to the shore in season, and were carried over the rocks, and the tribe all destroyed together. We now close the northern tours, and proceed to WASHINGTON, D. C. Washington, the seat of Government of tlM3 Tlnited States, is situated between the Potomac River and its eastern branch, about a mile and a half above their junc- tion. It is divided into three distinct parts, which aro built about the Navy Yard, the Capitol Hill, and the Pennsylvania Avenue. The Capitol is an immense build- ing with two wings, surrounded by an open piece of ground, terraced in front, and occupying an elevation, which renders it a conspicuous object for several miles. The original plan of the city was very extensive J the principal streets meeting from all points of the compass at the Capitol, and bearing the names of the older state* of the union. Some of the minor streets are known by the names of the letters of the Alphabet; and tracts of ground were reserved for public squares. As Washing- ton, however, is chicHy dependent on the government for its support, the original scheme has been but faintly realized, and many of the streets have not even beer' opened. During the sessions of Congress, the place is throng with strangers from all parts of the country; and the se^;- sions of the Senate and Representatives, the proceedings of the Supreme Court, the Levees at the President's House, tlio parties at the foreign ministers', &c. arl'ord ample op- r)o tunities for amusements of various kinds, At other 19* E k . r ■' I It} '« I m a ■■•j .!1 216 THE DEPARTMENTS. m in ■a seasons, however, there is little to interest the th3 stranger except the public buildings and the Navy Yard. The Capitol presents specimens of various styles of architecture. On entering the south wing severjvl columns are seen, where carvings of Indian-corn stalks are substi- tuted for (lutings and filletings ; while the capitals are made of the ears of corn half stripped, and disposed so as in some degree to resemble the Corinthian or Composite order. The Representatives' Chamber is a fine semi-circu- lar apartment, with columns of a dark bluish siliceous pudding stone, hard and highly polished. It is lighted from above. The gallery is open during the debates, as well as the Senate Chamber, which is a much smaller apartment. The Library of Congress is in another part of the building; and the Great Hall contains the four national pictures, painted for the government by Col. Trumbull: the Declaration of Independence, the Surrender at Sara- toga and Yorktown, and Washington resigning his Com- mission ^ each 12 feet by 18. A fine view is enjojod from the top of the Capitol. You look along the Pennsylvania Avenue westward to the President's House, with Georgetown and the Potomac beyond ; the General Post Office, &c. on the right ; the Navy-Yard towards the southeast ; GreenleaPs Point nearly soufh ; and southwest the bridge over th» Poto- raac, with the road to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. The canal begins south of the President's House, and terminates at the East Branch. The President's House is a large building of white marble, with Grecian fronts, about a mile west of the Capitol, and near the public offices. It is surrounded by a wall, but without any other defence. The entram'e hall le-ids into the drawing room, where the President's lady receives visiters at her levees. Two other apartments are thrown rpen on those occasions ; all handsomely furnished, and freely accessible, even to strangers. The Patent Offi.cc is well worthy of a visit, on account of the numerous curious models which it contains, relating Co all branches of the arts. The Treasury, Navy, War, and Land OffAces, are all in » W stranger stylos of columns 'e substi- )iials are ied 90 as omposite mi-circu- siliceous s lighted bates, as I smaller t of the ' national rumbull : at Sara- his Com- pL You to the Potomac igbt; the s Point h« Poto- Vernon. use, and Df white : of the ded by a ni'e hall It's lady lents are irnished, account relating re all in GEORGETOWN. $117 Cnc vicinity of the President's House; as are the resi* dejices of the Foreign Ministers. The members of Con- p^ross, as well as the numerous strangers who resort hither during- the sessions, find lodgings in the hotels and board- ing houses in difTerent parts of the city, or in Georgetown. Georgetown is a considerable place, whicVi by it3 proximity to Washington, seems almost a part of that city. The country around it is variegated, and the situation of the Romish College, a little way west, is picturesque. Still further in the same direction, there is a very pleasant ride along the bank of the Potomac, where Mason's Island is at first seen, near the mouth of the river, and afterwards the Nunnery upon tbe elevated banks. Whoever v/ould under-»tand convents should travel in Europe. This institution flourishes in consequence of the ignorance of many of our coimtrymen, with respect to the nature of convents, their over-estimation of certain branches, and their light esteem for the principles and blessings of the Reformation. Accompanying those are the proselyting spririt of the Jesuits, and tbe secret designs of the popes against the freedom of th(; United States, so actively seconded by the government of Austria. Some of the advocates of convents have professed to court public attention and investigation for them. It would be well. We should find in them some of the images and pictures which are publicly worshipped in Romish countries. It is pretended that the education they afford, especially to females, is superior to any which American Protestants can give. Let its superiority ihen be thoroughly known ; and, lei laws be passed, opening all schools, without dis tinction, to the thorough inspection of public officers at their pleasure. Let Congress, or any State Legistature or the people of any town where a conventual hool exists, set the example ; and it will probably become general. Then if the advantages are so great, let the system be uni- Tcrsally adopted, even in our common schools ; and, if necessary import from fifty to a hundred thousand fo- reign teachers. Friars, and nuns, black, white and gray, might be obtained from Spain, and Jesuits in any numbers might be found lurking in secret, and under various name's in many a corner, since they have been expelled with de- ill • • " f « ';'** I r ii'i ■■ • .( tit' U'^ v\. I . .^ I a n' t: ' •;t 218 Mount TERi^oir. h «• tpstfilion {"vara almost every country in the world exce{>t the Unittnl Stales. One of the most tlistinguished and virtuous statesmen of Colombia, on u visit to this counirv exclaimed with astonishment, when ho heard that the edu- cation of any of our youth was committed to Jesuits, ** Do you not know that the'y ore the bitterest enemies of human liberty ? They are not tolerated in South America, nor even in Spain." Tina and the following memorable remark shoultl be wr. ten on the dooi of every convent i "If the liberties of the United Stales are ever overthrown, it will be by Jesuit priests."— L^/f^^c/^e. Alexandria. This is a large city and port, six miles from Washini^ton, and contains- some tine buildings, both public and private. The road vvliich leads to it is good; in the pleasant reason, although the couniry is little inha- bited, and the soil is impoverished by the cultivation of tobacco. This city is in the District of Columbia. Mount Vernon, the estate of the Washington family^ is nine miles south from Alexandria, and is remarkable ag. containing the tomb of Gen. Washington. The road is somewhat intricate, and has but few uilii*biiants } so that the stranger unleas he g-oes in a steamboat, will need tD make careful inquiries. The house stands on an emi- nence, looking down upon the I'otomac. The buildings- which project from each end;, are the offices ftnd habita- tions of the negroes. The key of the Bastile of Paris is hung up in the hall } and a miniature portrait of Washington, from an eartbf i pitcher, is preserved, which is con.sidered by the fsriii y the best likeness of him ever made. A beautiful lawi.y partly shaded by trees, extends from the froTit of the man' sion to the verge of the precipice,^ which overhangs the Po- tomac, and affords a delightful view upon the riTer and a tract of hilly country above and below. This is the place to which Washington retired after he had accomplished the independence of his country,- and again when he had presided at the consolidation of the government ; voluntarily resigning the stations he had consented to accept, and the power he hatl exercised only for the good of his country. To an American, this place is interesting, in a degree which no language can either heighten or describe.^ Whoever appreciates the vaJ.ue of i except hed and I country the edu- tr., •' Do i" humari nor even 'k »houIil Irberlies II bo by \x miles ig3, both is goocl^ Ltle inha- vation of n family/ rkabJe vrn/ i road is . so that need to an emi- bujldingg- d hablta- the hall } eartbp > fariii y ul la Why the man- s the Po- er asd a after he- try^ and of the he had sed only lis place n either value ot* le a ROUTK TO VIRGINIA STRINGS. 219 private and social virtue, will rejoice to find it associated with the traits ofa j)ersonagn so distinguinhed and iniiuen- tial ; the consistent politician will rejoice torelloct that his J)rinciplcs of natural freedom woro not restricted to any portion of the world, or any part of the human race; vvhilo «ny one, who can duly esliniale the extent of the blessings he has conferred on his country, and the inlluenco of his actions on the ha])pines3 of the world, v/ill wish that his history may ever be cherished, as a model of sincere and disinterested patriotism. Wasklngtuti's Tomb was until lately in a little grove of cedars a shorr, distance southward from the house, and near the brow of the precipitous shore. It is ncnv at a short distance from thai spot, a new f imily tomb having been erected. The great man, who had rendered tolas country the most important military and civil services she ever re- ceived, left his mortal remains to be de[)osited in this humble cemetery ; and that country has never yet expressed its gratitude by erecting a monument to his memory, though to her he devoted his life, and to her he has be- queathed a character, on which no successful attempt has ever yet been made to discover a shadow or to iix a stain. Virginia Springs. Warm Spring 213 miles, IVhite Sulphux 256 m., &c. These are now annually visited by many persons from the north, as well as from other parts of the country ; and the variety of scenery recommends them to the attention of every traveller of taste, no less than their medicinal properLies to the invalid. From Washington stagecoaches depart daily, passing through Alexandria 9 miles. Fairfax Court-house 15, CenlrevUle S. Bull Run 3, Buckland Mills II, New- Baltimore 4, Warrenton 6, Lee's Sulphur Spring 6, Jef- ferson 3, Fairfax 12, Cedar Mountain 6, Rapidan 6, Oratige Court-house 7,* Gordonsville 8, Monlicello 16, Charlottesville 3,t York 19, Waynesboro' G, Staunton * MontpelJRr, the sent of President MaJisoa, is 5 railes from this place. The JS'atural Bridge is \a Rockbridge couuty, 12 miles S. \V. from Lexington It i« about 200 feet hiph. t At Charlottrsviile is the University founded by Thomas JefTer- sou^ udorned with beautiful murblc col«uuades, &c. His seat ie oua lk>'ll 2 miicfl distaat. » :»| ! !■ ■ I !. ;!; ^ ' fe' ;i|! I ii 41 * ^(. if 1 i* it . 1 ''■' 'f < 11 220 DALTIMonr. 12, Jennings' North Mountain 17, Clovcrdalc 12, Green Valley 11, Warm Sprinfra 13, Hot Springs 5, Jackson Jlivfr 9, White Sulphur SpririiTs 29, Sweet Sulphur, do. 2S, Salt Sulphur, do. 1. (Distance from Washington 285 miles.) Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the United States, and carries on an extennive commerce. The harbour in the Patapsco River, has a narrow ,)i- trance, and is well protected by high ground. On the side opposite the city is an abrupt elevation of consider- able size, where is a fort, and whence a commanding view is enjoyed. Fdl^s Point is a part of the city, about a mile below, where most of the stores and shipping are found. Many of the streets of Baltimore are broad, cross at right angles, and are ornamented with fine buildings both public and private. The Washington Monument. This is a large column of marble in a commanding position, at the head of (yharles-street, rising to the height of 1G3 feet. It is 14 feet m diameter at the top, and 20 below, with a base 23 feet in height, and 50 square. It is one of the finest mo- numents in the IJnitud States, and the only one worthy the memory of the great man to whom it is erected. The Battle Monument was recently erected, in memory of those who fell in the defence of the city in Septem- ber, 1814. The Public Fountain is a fine spring of water in the western part of the city, surrounded by a public square, laid out in walks and shaded with trees. Tho environs of Baltimore afford some , leasant rides ; and the communication with diiferent places is easy, by various modes of conveyance. Steamboats go to Nor- folk, in Virginia, but the passage is uninteresting; and those who wish to see V^ashingion, (38 miles distant,) will go by the railroad. Battle of Baltimore. Thib battle took place at Long Point, in September, 1814. Nearly 40 sail of British vessels at the mouth of the Patapsco, on the 12th landed between 7000 and 8000 men on Long Point, 14 miles from the city Sixteen bomb vessels in the m»an time noUTES To OHIO. oo 21 , Green Jnckson tiur, do. shinjiton United row ..»i- On the onsider- ing view » below, Many tangles, iblic and I column head of It is 14 I base 23 lest mo - J worthy ;ed. ineriiory Septem- r in the square, it rides ; easy, by to Nor- ng ; and distant,) at Long British landed 4 miles ;in time went up the river, and anchored about 2^ miles from Fort McHeriry. General Strieker took position at the two I'oads leading to North F'oint, his ritrht on IJear Creek, and his left on a marsh. I'lie enemy joined in a general battle. After an hour And twenty nuiuiles the 5 1st regi- ment gave way, and General Strieker retired to his re- serve, whither the enemy did not follow. He lost about 150 killed and wounded in this action, in which the citi- zens of Baltimore distinguished thcrnsclvis. The British was computed at COO or 700 ; and among them was their commander, Gen. Ross. The bomb vessels which attacked Fort McHenry were unsuccessful, being met with a manly resistance; and the troops rc-embarked and relinquished the enterprise. Baltimore had 101,378 inhabitants m 1840. The bar. hour has 18 feet water. Fort Mcllcnry If. miles below, at the mouth of Patapsco river, was bombarded by the Bri- tish in 1814. Washington Monument is 163 feet, with a colossal statue. Ellicott's Mills 13 miles, is a romantic spot. The rail- road crosses a fine viaduct; and there are many stone factories and mills for cotton, woollen, flour, iron, &.c. &c. The Baltimore and Ohio Rnilroad, in ui^e to Harper's Ferry, 81 miles, runs southwest to I'atapsco river, at Elk- ridge Landing, up that stream down Bush Creek, and the Moiiocacy, up the Potomac to Harper's Ferry. It is partly finished to Wheeling, 280 miles from Baltimore. The summit is 2500 feet above tide. A oranch J3jJ miles long, leads to Fredericktown. The Washington Railroad is a branch of the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, leaving it 8 miles from Baltimore, and has a very long and lofty embankment and a fine viaduct. It leads through Bladensbrg, and ends in Pennsylvania Avenue, ^ mile from the Capitol, m Washington. It meets, 18 miles from Baltimore with The Annapolis and Elkridge Railroad, 30 miles, which fcads southeast to Annapolis. OHIO. This new and flourishing state will be visited by tra- vellers of intelligence, dispof^ed to witness the aspect of '■'1 1 T, ! 15 J I'lj*- E i hi H ■ 'M' ■i.i ' It IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^^4v 1.0 I.I ■so ■^~ H^H m m 12.2 IIS 12.0 1 1-25 IIU III 1.6 < 6" ► V] 4: ^;. y ^ Hiotographic Sdences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) •72-4S03 CINCINNATI. a country which has been the theatre of a most rapid im- provement. The following may be rpcommended as a general tour. First proceed to Wheeling ; down the Ohio river to Cincinnati ; across the country to Sandusky Bay by the western route in good stage coaches ; thence by steam- boat to Detroit, ana if desired onward to the western lakes. — Returning, by steam, land at Cleaveland, and make an excursion on the canal, (which, although about 350 miles long, is not very interesting.) Then tako steamboat to Buffalo, whence the traveller may take what route he prefers. Pittsburgh. This is more like a manufacturing town in England, than any other in the United Stales. It would surpass our limits to enumerate all the manufac- tories here. The great steamboat, Missouri, built at Pittsburgh, in 1841, is 233 feet by 59 (including guards,) and of 60& tons. It plies between New-Orleans and St. Louis. The extensive coal mines in this vicinity are 329 fept above the Ohio, and 643 feet above Lake Erie. The appearance of the country along the Ohio at Wheeling, is remarkably beautilul; and it has thence de- rived the name of Belmont. The land is undulating, and rises gradually for a distance back, affording many fine retrospects to a traveller in that direction, over a well cul- tivated region. Considerabk quantities of tobacco are now raised here. Cincinnati. The streets cross each other at right an- glas, and those parallel to the Ohio, are numbered 1st, 2d 3d, &c. except the two next the shore. The Miami canal passes through three of the streets. The principal build- ings are the Court-house, Jail, Post-office, Hospital, Col- lege, Medical College, Mechanics' Institute, Council Chamber, Churches, Theatre, Amphitheatre, &c. Capital employed in manufactures in 1841, 14^ millions ; pro- duct of mechanical labour 17 i millions. There are 130 different branches of manufacture, employing 1000 mas- ter employers, and 10,000 working people. There are a Commercial Hospital, Lunatic Asylum, Medical College^. and the Weitern Museum, ROUT ^roii Amboy to Am Borden Burlin Do. clay-sti Newarl 13, Tr( Phila States ; which, J are of e It wil the strcf coim/, Ti the banli at the east and and alle' The : ings in t fish itiar Broad-si convenit The J Post-ofli busses,) The i tween F form of eight fin out bas« PHILADELPHIA. ; rapid im^ neral tour, o river to jay by the by steam- e western ijland, and )ugh about rhen tako ^ take what Liring town States. It e manufac- isburgh, in and of 60a Louis, re 329 fer*. • le Ohio at s thence de- jlating, and J many fine a well cul- obacco are at right an- red 1st, 2d iami canal cipal build- )8pital, Col- Council c. Capita) ions ; pro- ere are 130 1000 mas- here are a al College, ROUTE PROM N. YORK TO PHILADELPHIA. ^ro:n New-York to Philadelphia, by the Camden and Amboy Railroad 85 miles The boat from the Battery to Amboy, New-J'^isey 23 m. railroad, to Hightstown 20, Bordentown 14, Steamboat to Bristol, Pennsylvania 9, Burlington, New-Jersey 1, Philadelphia 18. Do. by Railroad, through Newark, &c. From Bar- clay-street Ferry to Jersey city, New-Jersey, I mile, Newark S, Elizabethtown 6, Rahway 6, New-Brunswick 13, Trenton 26, Bristol 11, Philadelphia 17. THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. Philadelphia is the (second city, for size, in tho United States ; and is remarkable for the regularity of its streets, which, almost without exception, run at right angles, and are of equal and convenient breadth. It will lie convenient to the stranger to recollect that the streets running north and suuth are named Firsts SC' condy Thirds &c. beginning on both sides of the city on the banks of the Delaware and Schuylkill, until they meet at the square near the centre. The streets which run east and west, are generally named after trees ; the lanes and alleys, after shrubs, &c. The Market. This consists of a succession of build- ings in the middle of Market-street, extending from the fish market on the river's bank to Eighth- street, and from Broad-street to Schuylkill, 5th-street, affording room for a convenient display of articles. The Exchange is on Third and Dock-streets, with th« Post-office in the basement, (here is a stand for orani- busscs,) Blind Institution in Race-street. The Bank of the United States, in Chesnut-slreet, be- tween Fourth and Fifth, is built of white marble in the form of a temple, with two fronts, each ornamented with eight fine Doiic columns, of the ancient proportions with- out bases. 80 t 1 W 3 '''it ^1 Mi' , *, \\ 224 THU ACADlfMY OP ART5. i\ f, ik Girard Bank, in Third, facing Dock-strtM't, is alotr of marble, and presents a beautiful low of six Corintliian columns. The Bank of Pennsylvania^ opposite, bus two fronts', on Second and Dock-streets, each with six Ionic columns. The State House, in Chesnut-street, between Fifth and Sixth-streets, is a large brick building, with court rooms, &c. at either end. In the front room, east of the main entrance, the old Continental Congress held their sessions; and there the Declaration of Independence was signed, July 4th, 1776. The Athenceum is adjoining, open all d^^y to strangers. The Philosophical Society^ s Library and Cabinet. Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of ground behind the Slate House. City Library, Fifth-street, open to the public from 2, P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and Cromwell's clock. Tho University contains a medical department and the Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, &c. The Arcade, in Chesnut-street, is a fine building of stone. The Philadelphia Museum of Mr. Peale in tho northern part. It contains a large collection of curiosi- ties of various descriptions. The huge skeleton of a mam- moth is represented entire ; for the parts which were defi- cient on one side, have been supplied by imitations of those on the other. Washington Square is on the other side of Sixth- street, with a handsome church on the southern side, with a range of wooden columns. The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and admira- ble institution, in the next street, where great numbers of sick are attended. Twenty-five cents will secure ad- mission to the building and garden?, and also to the top. West's Celebrated Picture of Christ healing the sick,. is exhibited in a neat little building on tke opposite side of the street. The Theatre, in Chesnut-street, between Sixth and Seventh-streets, has a marble front. The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and somewhat in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front. The Academy of Arts, Chesnut-street, between Tenth and Eleventh, contains a collection of statues, busts, &;c. rn m? from 'f '««! PHILADELPHIA. 5*>5 , is ah(y i)rint]iibtn /o front!*, columns^ Fifth nnd t rooms, the main session?; ) signed, langers. abinei. )f ground z from 2, s clock, t and the lilding of le in the f curiofji- a mam- ero defi- ations of f Sixth- de, with admira- numbers cure ad- the top. he sick, site side cth and mevvhat It. I Tenth its, &c. tn -marhle and plaster, ranged in an apartment lighted from the lop ; and beyond, a gallery of pictures with many specimens of the works of American artists. The Orphans' and the Widows' Asyiums are in t'n« western part of the city. Academy of Natural Sciences, Penn's House, Letitia Court, United States Mint, «fec. &c. There are two modical institutions in this city, where lectures are delrvered to great numbers of students. The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is a valuable institu- tion ; as is the Friends^ Alms House in Walnut-street, between Third and Fourth, where poor families are placed in separate houses, among small gardens, and furnished with employment. Girard College ^ founded by the late Stephen Girard, is on the Ridge Road, a little out of the city. The main building is of three stories, 169 feefc in length, and 111 ■wide, with an elegant portico with marble columns. The banks of the Schuylkill are well formed for the •display of the large public edifices which will be per- ceived ranged along their eminences for two or three miles, to the honour of Philadelphia, and the ornament of its environs. Mr. PratVs Garden is about three miles northwest from theccitT^ of the city, and worthy of a visit. The situation is agreeable and commanding, on a little cape or promontory on the Schuylkill ; and from the gravelled walks, the visiter enjoys a view down the river, of the basin, ♦^he dam, the Water Works^ below which are the State Prison, House of Refuge, Hospital, the two bridges, and on the opposite side a handsome seat called •' Wood- lands." The Western Railroad leads through it. The Schuylkill Water Works, There is a large stone building of chaste architecture, containing five large water wheels, which are capal)le of raising seven millions of gal- lons in twenty-four hours. They are turned by a current from the dam above. The reservoirs are on the hill above, whiith is higher than any part of the city, which it fiupplies. They both contain eleven millions of gallons. Penifenliary, This is a large and singular construc- tion. The prisoners are kept in solitary confinement. I'he wall is forty fret high, built of granite, and en- .J:i! I >'<i ■ *!■ "' ' 1 \ I • , :i('l 226 MINERALS IN PENNSYLVANIA. feet ich 'he cells ft closes a square, 6 formed in seven long stone galleries, an octngon in the centre. The entrances to the cells are through little yards from the outside, and each has a wicket door in the gal- lery. A centinel in the octagon, by turning on his heel, can look through all the galleries ; and the arched roofs reverberate every sound, so that he can hear a very slight noise. The Naval Hospital is situated about two miles south- west from ^he centre of the city. The expense is defray- ed by funds contributed by the officers and seamen of the U. S. navy, out of their pay. The building is on an eminence, commands an extensive view, and makes a fine appearance from a distance. The fron.t is 386 feet in length, three stories high, and it is large enough to lodge 300 or 400 persons. The first story is of granite, and the second and third of marble, both of which kinds of stone are found in abundance in the vicinity of Phi la- delphia. The Navy Yard^ (on the banks of the Delaware.) Here, as in most of the principal navy yards of the U. States, ships of war are built under the shelter of im- mense buildings, which protect the workmen and the timber from exposure to the weather. The line of battle ship Pennsylvania, the** Franklin" and'* North Carolina," and the frigates United States and Guerriere were built at this place. The north sid« of the navy yard is devoted to brick buildings for the residence of officers, ship timber, &c. while at the south end are the workshops. The Marine Barracks are on the western side ; and the area of the yard, which is walled with brick, is about twelve acres. The extensive meadows south of Philadelphia present a beautiful scene of fertility and cultivation. A ride in that direction at morning or evening is recommended. Geology of Pennsylvania. A geological survey of this state has been in prog:re8s five years at the direction of the Legislature, by Professor Rogers. Serpentine, asbestos, and many interesting minerals, are found in the southeastern part at Chestnut Hill. Bituminous coal beds exist west of the AUeghanies in many places, (becom- ing more bituminous as you go north,) and anthracite ROL'TKS TO THE COAL MINES. 007 cells arc in the le yards the gai- ns heel, ;d roofs ry slight s south- defray- amen of g is on makes J86 feet ough to granite, h kinds Phila- nware.) r the U. of im- ind the f battle rolina," ire built brick Jr, &c. Marine L of the ) acres, present ride in d. •vey of rection entine, und in as coal jecom- hrucite «.U of them. The purest Lehigh coal contains 88| per KQ'nt of carbon, and Schuylkill, 92 ; Bituminous, 87. There are numerous veins of brown oxide and compact carbonate of iron : the latter occurring with both kind:* \Tf coal. Some of the ores yield about 70 per cent of iron. Magnetic oxide is found in the southeastern part of the state. Silicate of zinc, yielding 50,40 of metal, is found in Nortbumborland county. The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal is intended for sloops of the largest class, antl schooners : tlic locks being 100 by 22 feet, and the canal 60 feet wide at the water line. The principal objects are the harbour on the Dela- ware, the adjoining emb«Tnkment on St. George's Marsh, the Deep Cut, and the Summit Bridge. The Harbour on the Delaware is at Delaware City. It is formed by two piers running into the water: one 500 feet long, and the other COO, with a return pier of 100 feet. The Pennsylvania. Canals. Under this general name is comprehended a groat and extensive system of internal improvements, for sevora' years designed, and partly accomplished, by the Legislature of this state. ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. In consequence of the opening of the vast beds of coal between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, at a distance of about 80 or 100 miles north of Philadelphia, that re- gion has become an object of great interest. In the tract of country noith from Philadelphia, are found inexhaustible quantities of coal, in elevated ridges and mountains of the Alleghany range, which are sup- posed to be connected with those which are known on the western side of the range, although they are of difi'erent characteristics. The western coal is easily combustible, and resembles that imported from Liverpool, &c. while the former is hard, very difficult to kindle, and burns with very little flame. It is, however, of great purity, being of that sort known to geologists by the name of Anthiticilo, and is now very extensively used for fuel in Philadelphin, New-York, and* dilfereut parts of the countrv. The variu- 20* ^M ■;■ ' n irV i 228 • CHUYLKILL N aVIC.ATIOM. I tieg of this coal come down in a kind of riulo sqimi'o b(jat*<> called arks, drawing only 12 or 15 inolics of water, bui containing about 250 bushels each, which may usually be seen on the shores of the Schuylkill, and at the wharves in the Delaware. It is only a few years since this coal waa supposed to be entirely worthless ; and now the demand is enormous. The wliole length of the line of navigation, undertaken by the Schuylkill company, is 108 miles ; and the work waa considered the greatest ever performed in this country bv a company. U commences at the Lancaster Schuylkill bridge, and ends at Mount Carbon ; 62 miles of it are by canals, and 46 by pools in the river. The obstacles which the surface of the country presents to works of such a nnture in this state, are unusually great, as may be supposed, when it is remarked, that eight ranges of mountains pass through Pennsylvania from northeast to southwest, and that the height of land is supposed to be 8 or 900 feet in the lowest place, so that the rivers descend very much in their courses. It has been necessary to make more lockages on the Schuylkill line, than on the whole Erie canal in New-York. Beside this, the country is of the transition formation, with sloping strata, which cause much leaking. Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines at Mauch Chunk. There are three routes from Philndelphia by which Mauch Chunk may be reached : Ist. By the way of Beth- lehem. 2d. By the whv of Easton through Doylestown— and 3d. By the way of Bristol ; also through Easton. By either route you reach the village in a day and a half. Canal Route to the Schuylkill Coal Mines at Mount Carbon. Manatunk is a large manufacturing village, furnished •with water by a canal 3 miles in length, through which the boat will pass. Plymouth Lockv. The marble quarries are in this vi- cinity. U I ROUTES TO THK CoAT, MINES. OOf) NoKRiSTOWN contains somo fine houses, as well as a court house, jail, lud two churches, one in the (lothic style, which stand.'* in a con-<picuou3 suiiat'on. Rkadino, 54 miles from l'hila(lel|»hiu, is a place of consitieruhle importance, inhahitod hy Germans, and con- tains* some handsome puhlic l)uildin,s(s. The Union Canal begins 2 miles below Reading, passes up the western sliore ofther'vcr to the valley of the Tulpehocken ; and then follows that valley till within 5 miles of L''banon, where l)egins the summit level. In all this distance it rises 311 feet, by numerous locks of 4 \.\m\ 8 feet lift. The car)al is 24 feet wide at bottom, 4 deep and "?6 on the surface. — On this part of the cana! is the 7 nel ; an excavation bored through a hill for a distance ot 729 feet, the face of the hill having Seen cut away at the entrance 25 feet. This dark and gloomy passage is 18 feet in breadth and 14 feet high. We return to the Schuylkill Navigation. Frcm Reading, the road passes for some distance near the river, and affords an opportunity to see the canals, dams, &c. made to assist the navigation. The road to Hamburgh from Reading, lies through the Great Limestone Valley of Pennsylvania ; which has the Kittatinny chain of mountains on the north, and the Blue Ridge on the south. The surface is beautifully varied by the natural undulations of the surface. Hamburgh is a small village with nearly a hundred houses, ''ith a church situated in a romantic position, at the entrance of the Schuylkill Water Gap. This is a narrow gorge, through which the river runs over a steep and rocky chan- nel for 4 or 5 miles; leaving no room upon its banks, which rise abruptly on each side to the height of several hundred feet. The road has been cut out along the face of one of these ranges, at a great elevation ; where the surface is in many places of such a declivity, as to require it to be supported by walls of :^tone. The views which are here afforded to the traveller, are roman- tic and varied in a high degree. The Little Schuylkill River, a branch of the principal stream, ru.is through a valley of the same general deacrip- tion ; and here lies the road to Mount Carbon. ■;■ ».. % 230 ROL'TiS TO THE COAT. MINES. 1 1 'I'ho Tunnel. This is a placo wlirrn a hill Ims been bored fliroiii^h '67 o yunU for a cunul, about 3 miles from Orwifjsburijh. M(M)NT Carbon, 8 miles, is in bight of several coal minrs. The cnal coimtry in this region begins in Luzerne, on the upper part of tho Lrickawaiia rivor, following its course to the SHsquehiinna. and along that stream, principally on the eastern bariU, to 18 miles beyond VV^ilkesbarro It runs south to tho Lehigh rivor, and thcnco southwest, through Schuylkill county. It is estimated to extend about 100 miles ; and about the middle of the range is 8 or 9 miles wide, growing narrower towards each end. At Mount Carbon the coal occurs in beds 4 or 5 feet in thickness, generally running east and west; and dipping to the south at 45^, with a slate rock immediately over it, and strata of sandstone and earth above. The slate, as usual, in the vicmity of coal, pre- sents the impressions of organized substances, at some an- cinnt period imbedded in its substance: such as the leaves of laurel, fern, »&.c. In coni^equence of the inclination of the coal veins into tho earth, the miners have, in some places, sunk shafts to the depth of 150 feet, with lateral excavations, east and west, of various lengths to 300. Two small carriages called Trams, are used in a sloping shaft to bring the coal out, being made to descend by turns ; but in the horizontal one, which has been carried in several hundred feet, they et.iploy wheelbarrows. Some of the veins run perpendicu- larly. The mammoth coal mine of Messrs. Stees and Oliver, near Pinegrove, took fire in Maroh, 1841, and continued to burn. Beyond Newcastle, Pa. is a mine which has been burning several months, and formed several openings or craters on the top of a mountain. Road to the Lehigh Coal Mines at Mauch Chunk. Philadelphia to Rising Sun, 4 miles ; Branchtown, (Child's Tavern,) 4: Shoemakertown, 8 ; Jenkintown, 10; Abington, 12; Willowgrove, 14; Horsham, 16; Graham park, 22; Newville; Doylestown, 26; Danville, 29; Ro- derick's tavern, ; Tohicken bridge ; Easton, 5 ; Mauch Chunk. ROUTltS TO THK COAL MINE.'?. 231 as been eg from ral coal e, on the Durse to ly on the It runs through bout tho arrower ccurs in inst and ite rock id earth lal, pre- lonie an- e leaves ins into hafts to ast and arriages the coal rizontal et, they endicu- Oliver, uinued ich has penings )hunk. htown, vn, 10; rah am 19 ; Ro- Mauch New Hope is in a romantic situation ; and Goat Hill rises opposite to the height of 500 feet, its top atl'ordmg a fine view. Delatoare Water Gap. The scenery at this spot is beautiful. The course of the river appears at a little dis- tance as if arrested by two opjiosile mountains, between which it flows in a narrow channel, suddenly contra«'ling itself to a furlong's breadth from a broad, smooth, and un- broken sheet, like a lake of considerable extents Eaaton is a village of some size, and a central point from which numerous roads diverge, and stage coaches run in various directions. It is situated in a rich valley, enclosed by the South and Blue Mountains. It is about 52 miles from Philadelphia and contains many inhabitants. Ex- cellent slates are made here. Within a compass of a mile and a half are 18 mills. The following is a list of distances from Easton on the different stage routes. New-York, 70 miles ; Schooley's Mountain, 23; Morristown, 41; New-Brunswick, 45; Bethlehem, 12; Mauch Chunk, 34; Nnzareth, 7; Dela- ware Wind Gap, 12 ; Water Gap, 20; Stroudsburgh, 27; Wilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvidere, 12 ; Reading, 52 ; Newtown, (Sussex county,) 40. The Delaware and Hudson Canal. It commences at Kingston on the Hudson river, and runs over to the Delaware river, through the valley of the Neversink creek, thence up the valley of the Delaware to the Lackawaxen creek, and up that creek to the foot of the railway. This is a contmuous canal of 1 17 miles in length. The railway commences at the termination of the canal, and runs over Moosick mountain to the coal mines at Carbondale on the Lackawana creek, 16 1-2 miles, overcoming an elevation of 858 feet. At Easton will be seen the Dam over the Delaware, at the termination of the works for improving the navigation of Lehigh river, from Mauch Chunk to this place. The road to Mauch Chunk leads through BethleherHy 12 miles. This is a neatly built place in a romantic and delightful situation, along the course of a swift running brook. It is inhabited by Germans, and little English will be heard spoken in the place. There is an old church and I i I n I i' I «ih. M I'fl! i li . m S ' 1 1 i m MAtlCH CHUNK. »n nradomy lor tho education of girls, under the manage* »/U'nt of the Moravians. The works on tho I,o}ii2;h river nro on a largo scale. The river descends 3(55 fi'of, and requires r)2 locks and til dijin-^. Tlio locks are intended for steumhoats capable of (MMryin.s: 150 tons of coal, 100 feet long and 30 wide. The Lehiirk Water Gap, 25 miles from I^aston and 11 from Lchiffhlon, C miles from Mauch Chunk. Here is a bridge. The tirrft objects that attract attention near the viliaj^e of Mauch Chunk, are the lock in the river, and the chute or inclined plane, at the end of tho railway, down which tho loadeil coal curs slide to the wharf on the river, where they load the boats and arks. The loiter carry about 10 tons. The train of cars coming down the railway will «»fu'n bo heard rumbling as the traveller approaches the village. Mauch Chunk, 90 miles from New-York and 70 from Philiulelphia. There is a spacious hotel in this young and llourisliing villn.'>-e, which has been well kept, and serves as the rende'/vous for numerous parties of visiters every season. There are few places where a stranger will find more to gratify him than here. The village is shut in by rude mountains, of such height that the sun is invisible to many of tho inhabitants during tho short days. The hotel commands a view of some parts of The Railway, which leads from near the coal mines to the Lehigh River. This was the second ever constructed in the United States — the Quincy Railway, in Mas-^achu- setts, being the first. It extends a distance of nine miles, along the side of a mountain. The sleepers, on which the railway rests, are of wood. The rails are also of wood, 4 by 6 inches, and covered with an iron plate 2 of an inch thick. The coal mine lies o little on the opposite side of the mountain; and the coal cars are first drawn by horses to the beginning of the railway up an acclivity of 5-8th3 of a mile. The summit is 982 feet above the river. Pleasure wagons, like dearborns, are occasionally used to carry strangers up and down the railway ; but they often go up in the returning cars. The average rise of the way is 18 inches in 100 feet, which is scarcely perceptible to the eye, and permits a single horse to draw up three empty rnrs. rnrri' In 1 'illl nOUTES TO THE COAI. MlNt.*. ^ATf^. In coming down, liowover, by tlioir own grnvily, r)ui cnrrinffcs would, it'pj'rniittrd, move with imrnrnsr rnindity. In 1C27 they wore rosfrictrd to a into not j'xrrrdin;; ii niile» nil hour. It is snid that they hud prrviously pone 15 nnd oven 20. The roiid jj^etierally jiiisses ulnnt; u narrow shelf, which it* alarming to u strniim'r, pnrtiruhirly in de- acendinc: ; srinie of the precipices bcine; 500 or 000 feet. The Tunnel is seen in poinjr up, al)out 400 feet above the road. It is 12 feet high, 20 wide, and ahout 800 long. It was cut through the mountain in 1826, to obtain a short passage to a bed of coal sujiposed to lie on the other side. A shaft was sunk sixty-four feet from the summit of tho hill without finding coal ; five hundred feet beyond this shaft towards the north, a hole has been bored to tho depth of one hundred and ten feet; coal was found at eighty feet, and the auger continued in coal to the extremity of the borr. The Company, however, were disappointed ; but they have an inexhaustible supply of this useful article, as their land extends 14 miles back from tho river, and along the road ; and 10 or 12 miles are underlaid by bedi of anthracite coal. The cars arc made of strong oak timbers, and planked up on three sides, with a swinging door in the rear. Some liave been constructed, in which stout sheet iron has been substituted for plank. They are six feet four inches long, three feet wide at top, and two feet at bot- tom, and about three feet in depth, resting en wheels with cast iron rims or fellies two feet in diameter, one inch thick, and about four inches in breadth, with a strong edge or flanch, one inch in thickness, and about twa inches wide, which prevents them from slipping off' the rails. The cars may be stopped immediately by a long lever, which brings strong bearers against two of the wheels, and causes great friction. The guide to every brigade of eleven cars holds a rope attached to all the levers. A curious machine, called the Brake, is also used. There is generally a stop to be made in the midst of the course, to wait for other cars passing, and to oil tho wheels. Several ingenious experiments have been resorted to in different parts of the railroad, to avoid some inconvc « ,M r:. H\l If. '.II .'I IM' ' Jot ■;^I t w: ' ^34 ROUTES rnoM PHILADELPHIA. niencies which might otherwise be causetl by sudden turns^ right angles, cros? roads, bridges, &c. The railway is in several parts supported by a stone wall at the side. Cross roads are not intercepted by it, for the rails are inter- rupted so as to correspond with the ruts; at the short turns, one rail is raised in a curve of a few inches to give the car a new direction ; and at a right angle, like those at the mine and at the chute abo-'e the Lehigh, revolving platforms are placed which turn the cars round) forty-five degrees. The cars themselves weigh about 1500 lbs. each, and run on wheels two feet in diameter. Strangers often make an excursion in them for the novelty of the mode of tra- velling. Several hundreds oi such cars are in use. They carry the coal to the Chute nbove the river, down which they are sent 315 feet. At the end of the railroad is a platform on the bank of the Lehigh river, down which the coal is let over one of the rails on an inclined plane of 750 feet, (200 feet perpendicular height,) to the stone houses, the wharf, and the boats. Each loaded car is connected to an empty one, which it draws up, by a rope that passes round a large cylinder or drum. A car goes down in about one minute and twenty seconds. The noise of the cars on the railway is perceptible at a great distance. The Mine, or quarry, op?ng upon the road by passages cut in the earth. These conduct into an area formed with great regularity, by the removal o*" coal, which has been dug out in such a manner as to kee.p the surface on an inclined plane, where the carts drive in, load, and then pass out at the other passage. The coal is very hard, pure and black, with a beautiful conchoidal fracture, and perfectly clean in handling. The surface of the ground was covered with a coat of sand two feet thick, interspersed with sandstone; under that was eight feet of black pulverized coal; and then came the coal itself. Routes from Philadelphia to Baltimore and Pitts* burgh. From Philadelphia to Baltimore, through Frenchlown, 115 mileg by steamboat and railroad: steamboat to Fort long, FROM PHILADELPHIA TO REW-yoRK. 235 and Mifflin, 8 mil ■;; Chester, 10; Marcus Hook, 4; Christia- na Creelc, Delaware, 8 ; New-Castle, 5 ; Railroad to Frenchtown, Maryland, 16 ; Steamboat to Turkey Point, 13 ; Pool's Island, 22 ; Mil r's Island, 8 ; North Point, 8 ; Fort McIIenry, 10 ; Baltimore, 3. Do. through Wilmington, 94 miles by railroad. To Wilmington, 28 miles; Elkton, 18; Port Deposit, 11; Havre de Grace, 5 ; (Here you cross the Susquehannah near the lower falls in a steamboat) ; Bush River Viaduct, 13 ; Gunpowder River Viaduct, (a mile long, a striking scene,) 8; Baltimore, 11. From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, 391 miles. The railroad (from Vine and Broad-streets,) leads through Pratt's Garden, and crosses Schuylkill river above Fair- mount, on a viaduct 1045 feet long, 30 above the water. It passes Buck Tavern, 1 1 miles from Philadelphia, Paoli, 10; Valley Creek, 8; Coatesville, 11; Gap, 11 J Mill Creek, 6 ; Lancaster, 12 ; Mountjoy, 12; Middletown, 15 ; Harrishurgh, 9 ; Canal to the Gap of the Blue Ridge, 5; Duncan's Island, 12 ; Newport, 10; Thompsontown, 11; Mifflintown, 11; Lewistown, 14; Waynesburgh, 14; Huntingdon, 29; Alexandria, 14; Williamsburgh, 12; Hollidaysburgh, 13. The Portage railroad, 37 miles long, crosses the Alleghany mountains to Johnstown, rising 1398 feet, and descending 1172. by five inclined planes on each side. On the top is the tunnel, 870 feet long, and 20 high. A canal to Laurel Hill, 7 ; (passing a tun- nel of 917 feet under a farm and a well \) Lockport, 10; Blainsville, 13 ; Saltzburgh, 16 ; Warrentown, 12 ; Leech- burgh, 10; Alleghany Aqueduct, 3; Logan's Ferry, 15; Pittsburgh, 18. From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, railroad and stage route, 305 miles, about 3^ days ; railroad to Harrisburgh, 105; Chambersburgh, 51; stagecoaches to McConnels- town, 19; Bedford, 31; Shellsburgh, 9; Stoystown, 19 J Laughlintown, 16 ; Greensburgh, 23 ; Pittsburgh, 32. ROUTE FROM PHILADELi HIA TO NEW-YORK. Leaving Philadelphia for New-York, the ship house, in the navy yard, is seen over the little island in the river. Near the upper part of the city are the ship yards ; and 21 236 EATtLE Ol!' THENTOW. beyond, threo glass houses near the water, with wliite walls and black ruof^. Steeples and shot towers are the principal objects rising above the great mass of houses in the city. The banks of the Delaware are low, and present an uni- formiry quite unfriendly to the picturesque. The towns are, however, interesting in the history of the revolution, Qs will be seen a little beyond. Burlington in New -Jersey, 18 miles from Philadel- phia, presents a handsome appearance ; with a row of fine residences facing the river, in front of which is a street with a beautiful sloping bank. Bristol, a little above, dnd on the opposite side, has also a number of gentlemen's seats ; and handsome flower gardens on the bank, ornamented with fine wil- lows, &c. BoRDENTowN, 28 miles from Philadelphia, and 7 be- low Trenton, stands on a steep sand bank, through which a road is cut to the water. Just north of the village is the late residence of .Tosoph Bonaparte, the Count de Survil- liers, once King of Spain. Trknton, 33 m. from Philadelphia. This town, at the falls of the river, is the capital of the state of New Jer- sey. Trenton is a town of considerable size, with a great number of stores and the aspect of business. The bridge across the Delaware has 5 arches, and is a handsome structure. Lamberton is a village where the coach offices are, and apparently tbrms a part of Trenton. The State Prison is situated a little south of the town. In Dec. 1776, the English had 4000 men on the east side of the Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, Black- horse, and Burlington, with strong detachments at Prince- ton and New-Brunswick, with their magazines. On Christmas night, three divisions of the American troops attempted to cross the Delaware : one at Bristol for Burlington ; one a mile below Trenton ; and one nine miles above, under Washington and Greene. This was the largest, but principally militia; it approached Trenton by two roads, attacking it at 8, A. M. very unexpectedly, and putting the English and German troops (about 150Q) to the rout. 500 escaped j the rest surrendered, being his wall on eng^ 7 be- which is the Survil- and town. e east Jlack- [rince- prican iristol nine was jftton Miyt |50a) }cing FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 237 the regiments ofRalle, Anspach,and Knyphausen. Rallo ■was killed in resisting. The other divisions could not cross on account of the ice, and Washington returned with his captives and six pieces of artiller}'. This successful stroke greatly encouraged the countiy, as it was the first victory over those German mercenaries. Washington soon after recrossed the river, and posted his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan. 1777, Lord Corn- wallis reached Trenton ; and Washington fortified himself on the Assumsick. But he was too weak to hazard an engagement; and the Delaware was filled with ice. Being hardly pressed, Washington had formed the plan of a retreat, expecting to be unable to remove any thing but the soldiers and what they could carry, as the soil was so unfavourable, and the weather so mild and wet, that wagons could not pass. Cornwallis had sent to Princeton for a regiment to join him, that he might attack th« Americans immediately. In the night, however, General Greene reported that the weather had suddenly become cold ; and at midnight, Washidgtun was able to begin his march, with all his baggage and artillery. This was done, and all the fires left burning. T he British had no intimation of their depar:ure until they heard the guns firing at Princeton. Princeton, 10 miles. This village is situated on an elevated ridge of land, which, on several sides, rises with a long and easy slope, and commands a prospect of con- siderable extent. In approaching it from the west, the Theological Aca- demy, which is of stone and 4 stories high, is seen on the right ; and Nassau Hall in the centre of the town, oppo- site the stage house. The college yard is large and shaded with trees ; and the burying ground contains the ashes of the presidents of the institution : Aaron Buir, Jonathan Edwards, Samuel Davis, Samuel Finlcy, John Witherspoon, and Samuel S. Smith Washington met at Stony Brook, north of the pre- sent road, a little way from Princeton, and defeated the British regiment. Ho then marched north to the high grounds at Morristown. During the battle of Princeton, it is related that a can- P iii ,1 iii H ^i\^\ '/■ 090 BAT OP NEW-YORK. non shot entered the chapel, and tore away the head from a portrait of George III. New-Bkunswick. Here steamboats as well as the rail- road communicate with New-York. The view is pretty from the hill above ; whence the public buildings appear to good advantage, particularly the Theological Seminary, which is under the synod of the Dutch Reformed Church. The banks below are pic- ture«que, but afterwards are low and little varied. In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from near Morristown to Middlebrook, where he intrenched himself on the heights, in full view of New- Brunswick. The Bri- tish tried various stratagems to decoy him from this com- manding position, and once succeeded ; but discovering their intentions to surround him, he quickly regamed it, and they were soon after obliged to give up all hopes of penetrating in thi's direction, and devoted their attention toco-operating wi.h Gen. Burgoyne, who was coining down towards Albany. Perth Amboy, 13 miles. Here is usually some ship- ping ; but the place has little to attract observation. Elizabethtown Point, 15 miles from New-York. The village is partly seen about 2 miles inland. Staten Island is large and elevated, with but few in- habitants, and a small cluster of houses. On entering New-York Bay, Fort Lafayette is seen in the Narrows, between Staten and Long Islands, which is the passage to the sea. The city presents a close mass of houses, with Castle Williams on Governor's Island, seen near it on the right ; and Kllis's and Bedlow's Isl- ands on the left with ihoir fortifications. On approach- ing, the prominentobjects are the tall steeples of numerous churches, the dome of the City Hall, and other prominent buildings. The clusters of trees observed on the shore m front of the city, are on the Battery : a place once fortified, but now the principal public square ; and Castle Clinton just west of it has been converted into a place of amuse- ment for summer evenings. ir VinciMA. 239 :: nOUTE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. The Virginia Springs. Mineral springs of different kinds} are found in altno!;t every county in this state west of the Blue Ridge ; and some of them are much resorted to in late years by invalids and travellers for pleasure from a distance, not a few of whom come from the nortlierii states. The accommodations are various. At some the visiter fares well ; at others, ftimilies find it necessary to take servants and some furniture with them, if they wish to be comfortable, as they will find no habitations provided, ex- cept small ones, chiefly log houses, while a common table is set in the hall of a jiavilion. The Hot Springs, in Bath county, are considered use- ful in rheumatic cases, and resorted to chiefly in July and August. The water oi one is at 96^, and another as high as 112°, Fahrenheit The Sweet Springs are in Monroe county, and are at times much frequented by a variety of company. The Natural Bridge is one of the greatest natural cu- riosities in the United States. It is so well formed, so safe and so conveniently situated, that it is crossed by a public road. The traveller, however, might easily pass it without observing it ; as it is 60 feet broad, and partly over- grown with trees. To see it a stop must be made, and the traveller must walk to the brow of the precipice. The finest view is from below; and to enjoy it he must descend to the level of Cedar creek, which flows there The banks are almost perpendicular for an extent of about 80 yards, and almost 200 feet in height, where they are con- nected by the bridge, which forms a fine arch from side lo side, surprisingly regular for a work of nature. The dis- tance between the banks at the water's level is 45 feet, and 90 above. The bridge consists of a solid rock, fill" g the upper part of this chasm, and of about the folluA'ing dimensions : length 90 feet, breath GO, and thickness 40. Wier^s Cave. This is one of the most beautiful ca- verns in the world, and is well worthy of a visit. It is also in Rockingham county. It is under the charge of a man whose care and attentions may be relied on by strangers. Ho will funii:jh specimens of the beautiful spar with 2r ^vA r I !^ ,'1 -U.- 240 WIER'S CAVK. which it abounds, and pack them for transportation. Every visiter hero and at other mineral h)calities, should procjre specimens, if not l.. entire suite of specimens, for himself, his friends, or some scientific institution or association. Wier's Cave extends about 800 yards, and is divided into several apartments of different sizes. Torches must be carried the whole distance ; and those who wish to ex* amine it at leisure should take in some refreshments. The guides will illuminate some parts by planting lights in se- veral places. The walls are formed of the most beautiful crystallized carbonate of lime, or calcareous spar. The crystals are of various forms, size and colour, and reflect the Jight with a most brilliant sparkling. In some places are thin sheets of the same incrustations, which have the ap- pearance of richly flowing drapery ; and from the lofty ro.)''of one of the halls is one which appears as if floating in tne air. It has received the name of Elijah's Mantle. Numerous stalactites hang from the roof like icicles *, others form beautiful colonnades, extending to the floor. Many stalagmites stand on the ground, several feet high. In the ** Organ Room" are rows of these, which are not only small, hollow, and often transparent, but so slender as to vibrate when touched, and give musical sounds of various pitches, like the notes of an instrument. Other particulars, equally interesting, we have not room to give. Madison's Cave, in the same county, though only 300 feet in extent, is somewhat similar to Wier's Cave; and another in Frederick county, near the North Mountain. The Blowing Cave is situated in the Alleghany Moun- tains, and another in the Cumberland ridge. In other psirls of the United States are many caves, most of which however lie out of the principal routes of travellers. Of these, the great Kentucky Cavern is the principal, which is probably the largest in the world, being ten miles or more in extent, with halls covering several acres, in the north, caves of considerable inter- est are found on the Swatara river, Pennsylvania, Water- town and Rhinebeck, New-York, besides several in Ver- mont, in Derby, Dorset and Clarendon. Most of these are in limestone regions, and have probably been formed by the washing of sui-terranean currents of water. rOUTES fROM NEW-ORLKANS «ORTH. 241 f Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is on the eastern t'\de of James River, about 150 miles from its mouth. Fine steamboats go up to the city, but ships stop a short distance beU>wr. The falls forbid navigation above, ex- cept to boats. There is a canal for boats round the falls, 32 miles long. The principal streets are broad and straight. The Capitol is a tine building on an eminence on the model of a Grecian temple. Mines of inferior bituminous coal in the vicinity furnish much of the fuel. There are some pleasant rides in the neighbourhood. Norfolk, the principal seaport of Virginia, is situated at the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, on a part of that exten- sive level, sandy, pine bearing region, which forms the eastern coast of the United States, from New-Jersey south- ward. There is nothing interesting in the scenery ; and but little to attract a traveller. The United States Navy Yard is opposite. The Dismal Swamp Canal extends into North Caro- lina i) Albemarle sound, 23 miles. Old Point Comfort, on the Chesapeake, is the posi- tion of one of the strongest fortresses in the Union. The situation is low, sandy and solitary, and scarcely discerni- ble from the steamboat in passing. SOUTHERN ROUTES AND DISTANCES. it I ''! IM From New-Orleans to Charleston, by land and watef* Mobile 114 miles, Steamboat to St. Joseph's 215, Steam- boat to St. Mark's 85, Railroad to Tallahassee 31, stage- coach to Brunswick, Georgia, 210, Steamboat to Charles- ton 160. Or, from Mobile by stagecoaches to Montgomery, Ala- bama, Columbus, Indian J>prings, Georgia, Greensboro', and by railroad to Charleston. Railroad from Charleston to Augusta 136 miles, 12 hours. The country, most of the way is nearly level, and sandy, with few objects of interest. To Woodstock 15 miles, Summersville 7, Branchville 40, Midway 10, Blakes- ville 18, Aiken 30. Here is the summit, 510 feet above tide water, 360 above Augusta. Here are two other railroads from Augusta : one to Iji /J 042 IrrOM CHARLESTON TO NKW-YORK. Athens, Gf^orgia, 114 miles northeast; one east to Greensbarough iOO. A railroad there to Knoxville, Ten- nessee 97, is to bo made. From Charleston to Savannah, by Steamboats 11 inile^^, Fort Moultrie 4, Coffin Land R, Stony Inlet 11, S. Edia- to Inlet 27, St. Helena Sound 3, Tiuncard's Inlet 21, Hilton Head 4, Bloody Point 18, Savannah 17. By land 1 18 miles, Asliley Kiver 6, Grt^en'a Tavern 8, Hick's, do. 10, Jackson Borough 10, Tompon Post-office 3, Thompson's Tavern 11, Saliketcher Cnnrch 9, Pocota- Jigo 7, Coosawhalchee G, Beck's Ferry 23, Savannah 25. From Savannah a railroad is oarlly fir.;:>hed northeast to Macon, 210. From Charleston to New- York by ship, 670 miles. To Cape Fear 120 miles, Cape Look Out 75, Cape Hatteras 78, Cape.s of Virginia 140, Cape May 120, Bar- negat 70, Now- York Be.r 45, Sandy Hook 3, Narrows 11, New- York 8. From Charleston to New- York, by land and water. Steamboat to Wilmington, North Carolina, daily, Hhours, Railroad to Weldon, through Waynesboro' and Enfield, 10 hours, Railroad to Portsmouth, 77 miles up the Ches- apeake Bay. Steamboat to James River 6, Old Pjint Comfort 20, New Point Comfort 10, Rappahannock river, 65, St. Mary's Outlet 42, Port Tobacco 38, Mouth of Potomac 16, Mount Vernon 30, Alexandria 9, Washing- ton city 6. Railroad to Baltimore, through Bladens- burgh. Or, from Norfolk to Baltimore by Steamboat 197 miles. Or from Norfolk to Richmond by Steamboat 117, passing Jamestown 24, the first settlement in Virginia, (I60i^) Or, from Weldon, North Carolina, to Washington, through Petersburgh, 204 miles. Railroad to Petersburgh, Virginia 60, Richmond 22. Fredericksbuigh 64, Belle- plaine 11. Steamboat to Washington, as before, 47. ■/ REFLECTIONS, &C. 243 Re.Jlcctions of the Traveller at the termination of '^ his Journey. An intelligent and virtuous traveller cannot fail to have made many aseful ol)s<;rvation3, and experienced many feelings ot an interesting nature, which he will wish to lay up in his memory, and recur to in future. In such a person, travelling tends to foster patriotism of the best kind. We know the beauty of that inheritance, which we have received from our ancestors, when we have seen it; and intercou. ,0 with our most estimable countrymen leads us to place a proper value on. our national institu- tions and national union. On returning to the enjoyments of home and friends, with becoming feelings of gratitude to Him, whose hand has guided and protected us, how natural is the in- quiry, *' how may I act for the improvement of society around me ?" If we have learned any lessons of disinter- estedness, let us endeavour to bring them into habitual practice. If we have acquired any knowledge which might be useful to agriculture, arts or sciences in our neighbourhood, let us impart it to those who know how to apply it. Popular lectures, libraries and literary and ficientific asso"ations will merit patronage. One of the most important subjects which now occupy the attention of our countrymen, is jiublic education; and in several of the states, especially tnat of New-York, the traveller may have seen most valuable plans of improve- ment in operation. No man can be too much engrossed in business, or in too obscure a situation, to exert some useful influence in favour of the common schools of his state, county, town, or district. He may excite that in- terest in others which he feels himself, impart to them simi- lar views, assist in procuring better methods of instruc- tion or discipline, found a district library, or in some other way promote the diffusion of the sound knowledge, habits, taste, and sentiments, which the country »o much needs, for her happiness and security. ... 11 i \ ! J; \\\ APPENDIX. Extract of a letter from the Baroness Reidescl, refcrrei to oil page 81. "But severe trials awaited us, and on the 7th of Octo- ber, our misfortunes begun. I was at breakfast with my husband, and heard that something was intended. On the same day I expected Generals Burgoyne, Phillips and Frazer to dine with us. I saw a great movement among the troops ; my husband told me, it was merely a recon- naissance, which gave me no concern, as it often happened. I walked out of the house and met several Indians in their war drosses, with guns in their hands. When I asked them where they were going, they cried out War ! War ! (meaning they were goirur to battle.) This filled me with apprehension, and I scarcely got home before I heard re- ports of cannon and musketry, which grew louder by de- grees, till at last the noise became excessive. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon, instead of the guests whom I ex- pected. General Frazer was brought on a litter mortally wounded. The table which was already set, was instantly removed, and a bed placed in its stead for the wounded General. I sat trembling in a comer ; the noise grew louder and the alarm increased ; the thought that my hus- band might perhaps be brought in, wounded in the same way, was terrible to me, and distressed me exceedingly. General Frazer said to the surgeon, * tell me if my wound is mortal,. do not flatter me.'' The ball had passed through his body, and unhappily for the General, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by which the stomach was distended, and the ball, as the surgeon said, had passed through it. I heard him often exclaim with u sigh, * Oh fatal ambition ! Poor General Burgoyne ! Oh my poor wife !' He was asked if. he had any request to make, to which he replied, that ArrEM)i}c. 215 In a |ed, I n! ed ut ' If OonOral Biirgoyno would prrniit it, lie uliould Vike to ha buried at six o'clock in the evening on the top of a mountain, in a redoubt which had hern built there.' I did not know which way to turn, all the other rooms were full of sick. Towards evening I snw my husband coming, then I forgot all my sorrows and thanked God that he was spared to me. He ato in great ha^te with me and his aid- <le-camp, behind the house. We had been told that wo had the advantage of the enemy, but the sorrowful faces I behold told a different talc, and before my husband went away, he took me (Uie side, and said every thing was going very bad, that I must keep myself in readiness to leave the place, but not to mention it to any one. I made thrt pretence that I would move the next morning Into my new house, and had every thing packed up ready. " Lady H. Ackland had a tent not far from our house; in this she slept, and the rest of the day she was in the camp. All of a sudden a man came to tell her that her husband was itiortally wounded and taken prisoner; on hearing this she became very miserable ; we comforted het by telling her, that the wound was only slight, and at the same time advised her to go over to her husband, to do which she would certainly obtain permisf'^n, ftnd then she could attend him herself; she was a char ning woman and very fond of him. I spent much of the night in comforting her, and then went again to my children whom I had put to bed. I could not go to sleep, as I had General Frazer and all the other wounded gentlemen in my room, and I was sadly afraid my children would awake, and by their crying disturb the dying man in his last moments, who often addressed me and apologized 'for the trouble he gaveme.^ About three o'clock in the morning I was told he could not hold out rtiuch longer ; I had desired to bo informed of the near a];proach of this sad crisis, and I then wrapped up my children in their clothes, and went with them into the room below. About 8 o'clock in the morning he died. After he was laid out and his corpse wrapped up in a sheet, we came ag'ain into the room, and had this sonowful sight before us the whole day, and to add to this melancholy scene, almost every moment some officer of my acquaintance was brought in woundedV The cannonade commenced again ; a retreat was spoken of^ 246 appendix: but not the imallcst motion was made towanln it. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon I saw the house which had just been built for mo in flames, and the enemy was now not far off. Wo knew that General Burgoyne would not refuse the last request of General fVazer, though by hisncceding to it, an unnecessary delay was occasioned, by which tho inconvenience of the army was much increased. At G o'clock th<*, corpse was brought out, and we saw all tho Generals attend it to the mountain; ihe chaplain, Mr. Brundell, performed the funeral service, rendered unusually solemn and awful, from its being accompanied by constant peals from the enemy's artillery. Many cannon balls flew close by me, but I had my eyes directed towards the mountain, where my husband was standing, amidst the fire of the enemy, and of course, I could not think of my own danger. General Gates afterwards said, that if he had known it had been a funeral he would not have per- mitted It to be fired on." Lady Harriet Ackland went to the American camp after the action, to take care of her husband before tho surrender, and the Baroness Reidesel afterwards. They were both received with the greatest kindness and deli- cacy, epecially by General Schuyler. dation according to the Census of 1830 and 11 1830 1840 Maine, 399,955 501,798 New-Hampshire, 269,328 284,481 Vermont, - 280,652 291,818 Massachusetts, - 610,408 737,784 Rhode Island, 97,199 108,837 Connecticut, 297,665 310.131 New-York, 1,915,608 2,432,835 New-Jersey, 320,823 373,276 Pennsylvania, 1,348,233 l,850,00a Delaware, 76,748 78,120 Maryland, 447,040 467,567 Ohio, 937,903 1,515,703 eding INDEX. Albnnv 23, 27 Alexandria (D. C.) 218 AmlieiHt IT)? Andre's Gravp 13 Cnpiiire and Fxec'n 1!) Andovcr 10(3 AnthonyV Nose, Hud' son Itiver 17 oil Erie Canal 35 Lake George 90 Antiquities 143, 45,09, 73 Aquedin',t at Little Falls 37 Rochester 40 Arnold's Treachory 19 Arsenals Troy 28 Quebec 120 Springfield 153 Ascutney Mountain 102 Auburn 72 Ballston Springs 82 Baltimore 220 Bangor 213 Batavia 69 Bath {Maine) 211 (iV. H.) 165 (iV. Y.) 13 Battle of Behmis's Heights 75, 7« Bennington 77 Bloody Brook 158 Bridgewatcr, or Lun* dy's Lane 57 Bu5iker's Hill 177 Cliippijwtt 5;f Krio C I Groton 167 Luke George f^3 Jicxington 185 Montmorency 135 Tequod 141, 168 riaiti^burgh 109 Qu.>l)ec 132 Do. in 1775 133 Qiieension 51 JSarutoga 75, 78 Tic(jndei'oga 96 Turt.cr's Kails 159 White Plains 14 Bellows' Falla 100 Black Rock GO Bloody Brook 158 Pond 90 Ploomfitld 70 Blue Hills 175 Boston 175 Brattleborough 100 Bridgeport 140 Brock's Monument 51 Brookfield 184 Brooklyn (N. Y.) 12 Buffalo' 60 Bunkei'sHill 177 Burgoyne's {Gen.) Ex- pedition 79 Battle Ground 77 Quarters 81 Burlington (T7.) 107, 164 Cilia u ell 90 (\ o<i P48 INDEX. Canada, General Rc' Falls. marks on 60 Au Sable lOS Canals. Baker's 140 Blackstone Canal 174 Bellows 160 Erie 31 Carthage 46 Farmington 143 Catsk'U 21 Ohio 68 Glenn's 89 WeJland 57 Cohoea 31 Canal Boat, Descrip- Little 36 tion of 28 Miller's 140 Canandaigua 70 Montmorency 133 Cape Diamond 129 Niagara 50 Carthage 46 Rochester 46 Catskill 21 South Hadley 154 Mountains 21 Trenton 39 Caughnawage 34 Turner's 159 Cemeteries (AT. Y.) 11 , 12 FishkiU 20 " Mt. Auburn 179 Flushing 12 Charlestown (Mass.) \77 Franconia 165 (N. H.) 161 Forts* Coal Minea 227 Adams 172 Cincinnati 222 Anne 138 Cleaveland 68 Clinton 16 Cohoes Falls 31 Crown Point 105 Colleges. Edward 139 Amherst 157 George 93 Brown 174 Griswold 167 Hamilton 39 Herkimer 38 Union 32 Lee 14 Washington 150 Miller 140 Yale 142 Montgomery 16 Connecticut River 145 Niagara 63 Dedham 174 Oswego 64 Deerfield 158 Erie 61 Dobb's Ferry 15 Putnam 17 Dorchester Heights 178 Say brook 145 East Canada Creek 35 Stanwix 40 East Hartford 152 Ticonderoga 99 East River 141 Trumbull 166 Education in N» York 86 Washington 14 Essex (Conn,) 147 William Henry 95 Fairfield 141 Gates' (Gen.) Camp 77 IKDEX. 24< 10& 140 160 46 21 89 31 36 140 133 50 46 154 39 159 20 12 165 172 138 16 105 139 93 167 38 14 140 16 63 64 61 17 145 40 99 166 14 95 77 Gcnesfio G9 Geneva 71 Glenn's Falls 89 Gravesend 13 Greenfield 159 Greenwich 141 Gulf Road 162-3 Haddam 147 Hadley 157 Hantipton 205 Hanover 164 Harlem 14 Hartford (Conn.) 149 Hatfield 157 Haverhill (N. H.) 165 Herkimer 38 Highlands 16 History of N. York 11, 32 Vermont 163 Mass. 177, 180 Hudson 23 HydrostaUc Locks 30 Indians. Mohegans 169, 171 Pequods 168 Senecas 69 Tuscaroras 49 Jacques Cnrtier 125 Johnson (Sir Wm.) 34 Johnstown 34 Junction 31 Kennebunk 207 Kingston 21 Kosciusko's Retreat 18 Lachine 119 Lakes* Cayuga Champlain Erie George Ontaiio Saratoga •Seneca Western 60 Lancaster 166 Laprairie 113 Lebanon Springs 24 Lewision 49 Lexington 185 Little Falls 36 Lock port 48 Long Branch 13 Lorette 135 Lowell 187 M'Crea's Murder 139 Murblehead 205 Middletown 148 Military Academy- West Point 18 Minerals of New-York 85 Conn. 143 Mohawk river 31 Montpelier 163 Montreal 114 i.iount Holyoke 155 iiope 172 Vernon 218 Nahant 179 Newburgh 20 Newburyport 205 New- Haven 142 New-Lebanon Springs 24 New-London 166 Newport 172 Niagara Falls from Ame- rican side Canada side Northampton Ogdensburgh Ohio Oneida Orange Springs Oswego Canul Ox Bow 50 53 155 C 221 41 13 64 42 1G5 50 INDEX. » Palisadoes 13 Pawtucket 174 Pino Orchard 21 Pittsburgh 222 Plains of Abraham 131 Plattsburgh 108 Plymouth 180 Port Kent 108 Portland 207 Portsmouth 206 Poughkeepsie 21 Prisons, (State) Connecticut 149 New-York 76, 72 Providence 173 Quebec 126 Queenstown 51 Rapids of Niagara 54 Richelieu 124 Rensselaerwyck 28 Ridi^e Road 48 Rockaway 13 Saco 207 Sackett's Harbour ' 65 St. John's 110 St. Lawrence 113, 121 Salem 204 Salina 43 Salt Spring" 44 Saratoga 83 Saugertics 21 Say brook 145 Schenectady 32, 33 Schoharie Creek 34 Schooley's Mountain Springs 13 Shaker Village 26 Sin-^ Sing 16 Sorel Village 122 South Hadiey 154 Springs. Ballston 82 Burning 55, 70 New Lebanon 24 New-York 85 Orange 13 Saratoga 83 Sullield 153 Stillwater 74 Stonington 168 Stony Point 16 Syracuse 42 Table Rock 53 Tappan 15 Tarrytown 16 Thames River 169 Three Rivers 123 Toronto 60 . i Route to Saratoga 74 Troy 29 j Utica 38 Valley of St. Lawrence 60 Verplanck's Point 16 Virginia Springs 219 Walpole (N. H) 160 Washington 215 Waterford 74 ' Wehawken 13 Welland Canal 58 Welles 206 West Point 17, 18 Wethersfield (Con. ) 149 Whirlpool 52 Whitehall 137 White River 162 William Henry 122 Windsor 'Con.) 153 vVer.) 162 W'iscasset 211 Wolfe's Cove 132 Worcester 15-2 York (Maine) 207 55, 70 inon 24 85 13 83 153 74 168 16 42 53 15 16 it 169 \ 123 60 atoga 74 29 38 Lawrence 60 Point 16 ngs 219 H) 160 215 74 13 al 58 208 17, 18 ;Con.) 149 52 137 162 y 122 .) 153 ^) 162 211 132 152 ■ 207