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SASKATCHEWAN

'- AND

THE JIOCKY MOUNTAlxNS.

A DIARY AND NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL, SPORT,

AND ADVENTURE, DURING A JOURNEY THROUGH THE

HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S TERRITORIES,

.: V IN 1859 AND 1860. '■'-'.'

". - - ' : -^i^-- .■■-•;. ^; .: .''i

. •■•!l-i ■ ■ ■ '. •'- ,

. • ■ ■' ■ «•" - . ■■ ■',■-. .y i

:»%

. -;*' ■■. -v • BY ■•■: --'. •

THE EARL OF BUUTHESK.

K.T., F.R.G.S.

f ^

" Here feel we but the penalty of Adam,
The seasons' difference, as the icy fang
And churlish chiding of the winter's wind ....

' And this our life exempt from public haunt

Finds tongues in trees, bo<iks in the running brooks,

Sermons in stones, and good in everything.

I would not ghange it." — As You Like It, ii. i.

■■■f'^..

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. ^

». . • ■. ^ '
'•■ ■'■,'■.

'- '■■ ■ '^vK;''. i'-' ■■'• ""' ":■'

TORONTO: JAMES CAMPBELL AND SON.

EDINBURGH: EDMONSTON AND DOUGLAS.

1875. \r^,<-.u:.' :.

|rHE ttlOHT Of ""UANSLAIKiS II 1,1 -,l.l?\ l.li I

,y r-

164147

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SASKATCHEWAN

AND

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

.i-^

PHttted by R. &> R. Clark

il ''OR

EDMONSTON & DOUGLAS, EDINBURGH.

LONDON . . . HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.
CAMBHIDGR . . MACMILLAN AND CO.
GLASGOW . . . JAMBS MACLBHOSB.

t»5

PREFACE.

The foundation of this book is a very carefully-kept journal,
for the most part noted down evening by evening over the
camp fire, and none of it written, save a sentence or two, at
intervals of more than a few days after the occurrences it
relates ; so that it has at least the merit of being a true reflex
of the thoughts and feelings of the time, as well as a faithful
nan'ative of incident, conversation, and adventure.

In submitting such a journal to the public, three principal
methods of dealing with it at once suggest themselves : — First,
To print it as it stands, without omission or change ; Second, To
preserve its form, but amend and amplify its diction ; Third,
To recast the whole, and frame it into a continuous story.
The first of these methods is almost impossible where the
diary has not been originally designed for publication, but,
formless and uneven, exists as a mere assemblage of ill-
balanced notes, abounding in rough disjointed sentences, dry
repetitions, and frequent references to matters of a private
nature. The third system is that which is now-a-days most
in favour, and its advantages are great and evident ; yet it '
frequently leads to many small exaggerations, amounting in
the aggregate to a large untruthfulness, and almost certainly
removes the freshness and individuality that characterise

%■

•

viil

rUEFACE.

even tho feeblest of daily recordp ; in the present case, more-
over, it would bo more tlmn usually liuzardous, (»\vin<,' to tlio \
risk of any drafts on memory or retrospoctivo fancy, after so
long a lapse of time. The second method is generally tho Morst
of all ; it is apt to unite the moagreness of the journal with
tho inexactness of an after nan-ative, while presenting neither
tho i'reshness of tho one, nor tho smoothness and freedom of
the other : to work on this system, though sometimes scarcely
avoidable, is to invite trouble and run much risk of failure.

After careful consideration, T have adopted a mixed plan,
seeking as far as may be to combine the advantages of all
these methods : I have employed sometimes one of them,
sometimes another, varying the manner of my treatment
according to the demands of each particular case.

My work, as it now stands, has been arranged on tho
following general system : — In certain pai^^s, and especially
towards the beginning of the volume, I have, with largo
omissions, fused my journal into something of tho narrative
form, while preserving its order and partially retaining its
diction ; but where this has been done, I have endeavoured to
make my intention clear, so that the reader may not be
cheated into accepting the remarks of to-day as those of
fifteen years ago. In other parts, I have followed my notes
with some closeness, though not without more or less exten-
sive alterations in the i)hraseology and construction. In
most parts, however, and especially in the latter half of the
volume, I have made a literal, or almost literal, transcript
from my diary, marking such extracts, lohcn they occur, hy
single inverted commas. Verbal changes, transposition of

PREFACE.

sentences, and sucli-liko trivial amendments, I liavo some-
times, though sparingly, admitted, and in certain rare cases I
have added a few words to explain or elucidate my meaning ;
but with these limitations the passages referred to may bo
relied on as actual extracts from the journal, even in portions
that might bo fancied too full or elaborate to have formed
part of the real diary of a traveller in the wilds.

I do not, of course, attach value to the mere diction of
my journal, as possessing any merit or importance in itself,
but only as affording a guarantee of perfect accuracy so far
as tlie writer could compass it. So careful have I been to
preserve an exact truthfulness — which to my mind seems more
important in a book of travels than picturesque word-painting
or luxuriant adornments of style-- that wherever I have
offered anything beyond the most slight or obviously recent
addition to the material existent in the journal, / Jiave
hracketed off such passages, however certain of their acciu'acy,
lest some trick of memory should be leading me into con-
fusion or mistake.

In the Appendix, besides a few miscellaneous papers at
the end, I have collected various passages from my diary,
which bore but slight relation to the main story, while from
their length, character, or position, they tended to impede its
progress. Being chiefly memoranda on Shakespearian and
theological subjects, — with recent additions, expanded in the
case of Hamlet almost into an essay, — they are little calculated,
I fear, to interest the majority of readers ; some, nevertheless,
may consider them worth perusal ; and for different reasons
I was desirous to preserve those portions of my work, though

vi?--

PEEFACE.

relegating them to a place where they need not be found
unless sought for.

It was no definite purpose of mine to gather notes on
subjects of a scientific nature, nor closely to record the geo-
graphical features of the country through whicli I travelled ;
where, however, details of that class do happen to occur, I have
thought it best to give them as they actually stand, without
attempting to improve them by private collation with the
valuable works on the same part of northern America, which
have appeared since the date of my journey, — every collation
throughout the volume being distinctly pointed out, and
very carefuUy acknowledged * Superior in various important
respects as some of these works must undoubtedly be to
mine, — composed as they were by men of science attached to
exploring expeditions organised by the British and Canadian
Governments, — I cannot but remember that my information,
however cursorily noted, was either gained by personal
observation, or from sources so good, that, in cases of differ-
ence (and a few such there may be), it is by no means
impossible that I am in the right, and the more qualified
author in the wrong. At all events, in such cases a com-
parison would be worth the making ; so I have left the
means of making it, instead of seeking to prevent disparities
by the invasion of another man's store, whenever his materials
seemed better than those collected by myself

• I specially refer to the Reports by Captain Palliser's expedition, and to
the books or Keports by Mr. Hind, Lord Hilton, Captain Butler, and the Rev.
Mr. Grant. While my book owes exceedingly little to any of these more
recent publicntigns, it is very largely indebted to Sir John Richardson's admir-
able Fauna Borcali-Amerkana (1829-31), from which (as will be seen) I have
taken nearly all the zoological details that occur in the footnotes and elsewhere.

PREFACE. xi

As regards tlie maps which appear in this volume, the
larger of the two — comprising my general route through the
Hudson's Bay Company's Territories — sufficiently speaks for
itself, subject to the explanation that it has been prepared by
the Messrs. Keith Johnston, with special reference to the aspect
of the country, in its boundaries, settlements, railways, etc.,
as existing at the period of my journey, — viz. in the years
1859 and 1^860.

The smaller map, however, — illustrative of my route
while travelling in the Eocky Mountains, — demands perhaps
more particular notice ; as I am personally accountable, not
only for its arrangement, but for the details of a certain
portion of the country, never before (nor probably since)
visited by any European. On these points it may be noted,
that the outlines of the map in question — ^which are of my
own framing — have been composed by adjustment from the
principal maps in the Blue Books relating to Captain Palliser's
Expedition ; and that the newly explored valleys are laid
down from a sketch made by me in 1860, while the memory
of the localities was still fresh in my mind.

I regret that circumstances should have prevented me
from forming a better record of my explorations than a mere
approximate sketch, — for even on unimportant subjects ac-
curacy will often prove to be of value, — but, such as it is, I
offer it as some small tribute to the treasury of geographical
knowledge.

As regards the illustrations, whether on separate pages or
attached to the letterpress of the work, the greater number of
these are derived from my own sketches and drawings ; the

<*^

Xll

PREFACE.

exception entirely consisting in those which have been repro-
duced from photographs, or founded on them with some
slight alteration.

To the former class belong all, save one, of the illustrations
of scenery, every example of which may be relied on as a
truthful though imperfect portrayal of Nature, — notwitli-
standing the roughness of my drawings, and the marvellous
improvement in all artistic qualities which they have sustained
under Mr. Whymper's skilful hand.

To the latter class must be referred the various repre-
sentations of animals' heads, taken from skulls and stuffed
specimens in my possession; also several relating to other
objects — viz., Bed River Fire-bags, — Cree Whip, — Edmonton
Hunter's Dag, — Assiniboine Fire-bag, Knife-slieath, and Pipe,
— all of which are engraved from excellent photographs by
Mr. Eodgers, of Montrose ; and in addition to these the view
of Minnehalia Falls, by Mr. Whitney, a St. Paul photographer,
the only landscape for which my own pencil is not originally
responsible.

Most of the smaller and less elaborate illustrations belong
to the former of these classes, being facsimiles, or nearly so,
of pen-and-ink memoranda hastily sketched into my journal ;
the exceptions are as follows : — Buffalo-hide Line, — Whishj,
— Snow-sJwe and Skida, — sketches only recently prepared by
me expressly for the present volume.

T will not add to an already lengthened preface, by attempt-
ing to detail the causes which are answerable for so many
years' delay in the publication of these travels, nor by seeking
to account for, or excuse, their publication at all under such

PREFACE.

unusual circumstances — the work must vindicate itself, or
fail ; but, having offered the explanations tliat seemed abso-
lutely needful, I now submit my book to the courteous reader,
in the hope that, whatever the extent of its imperfections, it
may still be found to possess some degree of interest, and to
afford some new information in regard to a country not yet
superfluously depicted and described.

[It may be well to inform the reader that the word Saskatcheivan ' is pro-
nounced with a strong accent on the second syllable — thus, Sas-katcli-e-wiin.

ERRATA AND ADDENDA.

rages 16, 17, 87, 88, for "Dr." Kichanlson read "Sir John" Ricliard-

son.
Page 16, line 8 of footnote, for " Mr. " Sabine, rcrtrf "Sir Edward"
Sabine.
,, 16, line 2 from bottom of page, /or " Tctrao Phasimidhis, the adnlt
male of which is described," read " Ccntrocercus PhasiancUus,
the adult male of which is stated to be sixteen inches in
length, while the Pinnated Grouse is described : " and page
17, Mne 8 from bottom of page, before " Phasianelliis" insert
" (Centrocercus)."
Pages 26, 27, insert accent over "Kiviferes."

Page 27, line 11, after " M'Intosh " insert " [? Mackenzie. See p. 355.] "
,, 66, line 1 of footnote, /or " MayJutgan'^ read '^ Mahaijgan."
„ 76, line 15, /or "whence" read "where."

,, 86, lines 1 and 2 of footnote, for " Mesaskatomena " read " Misas-
katomina; "/or Vol. I. read Vol. II. ; for "Aronia ovalis"
read " Amelanchier ovalis. Aronia ovalis — Rich, in Frankl."
,, 95, line 3 from bottom, /or "rifle-bullet " read " heavy bullet."
„ 103, bottom line of page, for " 291 " read " 281."
137, line 1,/or «31st" read "30th.
,, line 3 from bottom of page, for "tainted" read "scented."
167, line 3 from bottom, for " model " read " medal."
200, line 9, insert accent over "(pic."

221, line 5 from bottom, /or "Encrinites" read " Bclemnites."
233, line 2 from bottom, after "humble" insert "gentle :" and
line 3 of following page, strike out " of " before " whatsoever."
249, line 22, /or "half-dozen" read "half-a-dozen."
265, line 2 of footnote, /or "Wapoos" read "Wawpoos."
287, lines 5 and 6 of footnote, read " Sussee " and " Chippeway "

as in italics.
294, lines 2, and 1 of footnote, for "travaux" "travail," read

"travailles" "travaille."
316, title of woodcut, /or "Skidou" read "Skida."
370, line 4 of footnote, before "chief" insert "deceased."
386, footnote, for " 271 " read " 228."

388, line 3 from bottom, /or "intimation" read "indication."
391, line 20, /or "grim" read "your."
3t»3, line 21, /or "strong-headed" read "strong-handed."
405, lino 19, for " I inhabit Ihce " rmd " I inhibit thee."
413, line 18, for "There's Hector . . . there's a fellow," read
" Tliafs llei-tor, tliiil, that, look you, that ; tlicre's a fellow I "

»>

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE I.

NIAGARA, LACHINE, ST. PAUL, CROW-WING.

(April 15 to May 19.)

Good Sport and Healthy Climate required — Mr. E suggests the

Hudson's Bay Country — The Journey decided on — Voyage to America
— Sir James Anderson — New York — The Delaware Valley —
Beautiful Seneca Lake — Niagara — A Visit to the Falls — Hudson's
Bay House, Lachine — Sir George Simpson — Departure for the Far
West — Toronto — Mr. Paul Kane — Dr. Eae : his Arctic Journey —
Western Men — Lake Michigan — Germans in Chicago — Aspect of the
Country — The Mississippi Steamer — St. Paul, Minnesota — Rumours
of Floods — Start for Crow-wing, but return — James M'Kay, the Red
River Guide : his characteristics — Captain Blakiston — Purchase of
Horses, Waggon, etc. — " Morgan " and " Vermont " — The Minnehaha
Falls — Leave St. Paid — "Hyperborean Hotel" — Decline a Half-
broke Runner — Crow-wing City . . . Pages 1-12

CHAPTER II.

CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY,

(May 20 to June 1.)

Morning Start for the Wilderness — Happy Spring-tide — Men, Horses,
and Vehicles — Portage of Miry Creek — Camp by the Crow-wing
River — Boat-tents — The Prairie-hen : Queries as to its name and
designation — A drunken Ojibway — Dangerous meeting with Les
Pillageurs — Prairie in Flames — Lake Forty-four — Pelicans — Clouds
of minute Flies — Breakfast-fire spreads — Fine View from Height-of-
Land — A Waterspout — Violent Thunderstorm — Night Scene in a

;

■I i

XVI

CONTENTS.

Flooded Tent — Cross Rice River in a Cart-wheel Scow-

Energy — Wet and Weary Ride — Bittern-shooting — " Running "

M'Kay's
a

Bear — " Blucher " — Crossing of Red Lake River — An American
Pedlar — Mosquitoes in force : their Venom — Pigeon-stalking by
Pine River — Frogs and Cranes and Doleful Swamps — Isolated feel-
ings on a Vast Plain — Pembina — Tlie Fort and its Fare — Uproar of
Indians — Origin of term Saulteaux — The Vieux Marais — A Woolly
Horse and a Skew-bald Pony — A Settler's Cottage — Crossings of Red
River — Ai-rival at Fort Garry . . . Pages 13-29

CHAPTER III.

FORT GARRY.

(June 1 to 14.)

Description of Fort Garry — Party at Dinner — Mr. Boyd — Sir George
Simpson and Mr. Hopkins leave for Norway House — Notice of Sir
George Simpson's Death — Distribution of Red River Population —
Visit to the Nunnery — Dress of the Sisters — The Cathedrals and
Churches — Prevalence of the Scottish Race — St. James's, on the
Assiniboine — The Church and Parsonage — A Portrait of the Queen
— ^The " Ans Northup," the first Steamer seen on Red River — Indian
Spectators — Encampment of Crees — Preparations for Expedition
completed — The Men that formed the party — Vehicles, Stores, and
Provisions — Horses — Guns and Rifles . . Pages 30-39

CHAPTER IV.

FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE.

(June 15 to 27.)

Expedition sets out — White Horse Plains — A Summer Morning's
Concert — Purchase " Blond " and "^La Framboise " — Sunday Halts—
An Unwholesome Camp — Mr. Simpson's Visit — Rumours of Indian
Warfare — Purchase "Bichon,"a Buffalo-runner — Destruction anions
the Trees — A " Lob-stick " — Picturesqneness of the Hunters —
Tlieir Wives— A handsome Half-breed Girl — Spanish Saddle — The
Insect Pest — The Retriever tliat would not retrieve — Characteristics

/■

CONTENTS.

XVI 1

of the Men — Tlie Little Saskatchewan — Meaning of word Saskatch-
ewan — ^•" Vermont " — Mischances — Death of a Skunk — The Loon
on Shoal Lake — Re-arrange Armament — Vale of the Assiniboine —
Fort EUice — Mr. M'Kay — Fresh Tongues — Indian Visitors —
Route determined on — Numme engaged as Quide — Four Buffalo
Calves ...... Pages 40-62

CHAPTEE V.

FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT.

(June 28 to July 3.)

Additional Stores — " Pointer " the Pointer — Pierre Numm6
portrayed — Tent-life, its Charms and Harms — ^Travelling Cree and
his Wife — Target-practice — Nummd doctors his Gun — A fragrant
Camp — A Wolf wounded — Cabree-hunting — Nummd's Cutting-up
Feat — The Cabree described — Great Creek — The Lake of the
Valley — Short's Skill with Gun and Bow — An Indian Emissary —
Party from Qu'appelle Fort — Indian Horsemanship — Mr. Cardinal —
Smoking Party at Qu'appelle Fort — Visited by Ojibways — ^Visit their
Camp — " Spots-in-the-pky " and " Pointed-cap : " their different Be-
haviour — Cree Whip — ^A Yellow-faced Indian — ^Dog-train astonishes
the Ponies — ^A beautiful Sunset . . . Pages 53-64

CHAPTER VI.

qu'appelle fort to the INDIAN ELBOW.

(July 4 to 8.)

Departure from Qu'appelle Fort — " Hector " condemned and executed —
A prowling Wolf — Varieties of the American Wolf — A Cabree shot
— The Qu'appelle Valley — Origin of the name Qu'appelle — " Buffalo
Chips" — Quirk, Gammon, and Snap — Wolf invades the Camp —
White Cranes — Stony Valley — Character of the Country — Tiger-
lilies and Blue-bells — Chorus of young Wolves — Chase of a white
Wolf— Furnace-like Heat — The Sandy Hills — Cree notions about
Heaven and Hell — " Pointer " in Fits — Bull-dog Flies — Sufferings of
poor " Bichon " — " Bichon " and " Wawpooss," their Whims and
Oddities — A Saline Draught — Good AVater and Wild Garlic

Pages 65-74

XVlll

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

INDUN ELBOW TO CROSSING OF SOUTH BllANCII.
(July 9 to 13.)
The Elbow of the South Saskatchewan : its Character and Scenery—
The Aiktow River — Mr. Hind on the " Elbow " : its Angle and its
Water-width discussed — Feasibility of junction between Saskat-
cliewan and Qu'apjJelle — Recent Site of a great Indian Camp —
Exjjlore uiJ-stream — Settle on Route — Nuranic and his Contract —
Banks of the Saskatchewan — Death of an aged Buffalo — Run a
Bull, and shoot him — Indian Magic ; " Medicine Tent" : Conjuring :
Second Sight: Charming a Gun — Fine Cabree Shot — Its Horns —
Charged by a Buffalo Bull — His Death — Another Bull Slain, and
falls into River — A Wolf-chase on Foot — A Swim — Saskootoom
Berries — Preparations for Crossing — Skin Canoes — Catlin on " Bull-
boats" — Bait-fishing — Fish that inhabit the Saskatchewan — White

Pages 76-88

Fish in the Lakes

CHAPTER VIII.

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO CHERRY BUSH.

(July 14 to 18.)
Crossing of the South Saskatchewan — Swimming of the Horses — Traces
of an Indian Camp — Wild Strawberries — An unfrequented Route —
A sacrifice of Bull-dogs — Eagle Creek — Bad Habits of the Horses
— Vast Herd of Buffaloes — The American Bison, its names, weight,
and size — Arrangements for a Hunt — Tlie Start — Wawpooss gives in
— Shoot a fine Cow — Long Chase of a Bull — In the midst of the Herd
— Death of the Bull — Numme in Ambush — Horns of the Bull —
Catlin on Buffido-" wallows " — Old Bull pierced with fourteen
Bullets — Mistaken for Blackfeet — Alarming Invasion — Tait and his
men — Scarcity at the Forts — Wolves routed by Moonlight — Marrow-
bone Game — Sleeping Wolf lapidated — Stalk Buffaloes on foot —
Bulls dangerous in the Rutting Season — Tents struck — Over the
Roasting Hills — A Badger — "Black" turns restive — A Buffalo-
charmer — Cherry Bush — Visit from Tait and his Child — Napesskes
— The Buffalo Ox — Run two Cows — " Bichon " lands on his Head

Pages 89-107

CONTENTS.

XIX

CHAPTER IX.

CHERRY BUSH, THE HAD HILL, FORT CARLTON.

(July 19 to 26.)

Departure for a Bear-hunt — Napeaskea in his best — Plains alive
with Buffalo — The Bad Hill — Anecdote of Indian killed by Bear —
Search for Grislies — A " Roe " — Female Bear and her Cub — Wound
a Male Grisly — The Black-tailed Deer — Exploration of the Bad Hill
— Eagle Hill Creek, its position on Map— Buffalo-stalking — Bull
protects Cow — Scarcity of pure Water — Search for the wounded
Grisly — Hideousnesa of a Skinned Bear — Leave the Bad Hill — New-
born Calf and its Mother — Old Buffalo Bulls like Lions — Another
Ox — A long Running-shot — Carving out a Set of Harness — Hide-
Lines — The last Run — "Morgan" goes well — Shoot a savage Cow
— Wolves chase a Calf — The Prairie Wolf described — Roaring of
Buffaloes — Buffalo-meat — Industry of Indian Women — Fashion in
Beads — The Revolver unsatisfactory — Half-breed manner of loading
— Visit of Crees from their great Camp— Blackfoot War-parties
reported — End of the Hunt — Success considered good — Tents struck
— Elbow of the North Saskatchewan — Iron-ore Spring — Encamp
near Fort Carlton — Invitation from Mr. Hardisty — Drunken Indians
in the Camp ..... Pages 108-128

CHAPTER X.

FORT CARLTON TO FOR." EDMONTON.

(July 26 to August 10.)

Ride to the "Horse-guard" — Parklike Landscape — Napesskes on a
three-year-old — Numme's keen eye for Number One — The Store —
The Rum got rid of— Visit to Mrs. Tait — Present of Leather Hunt-
ing-shirt from Mr. Hardisty — The Fort described — Indian Women —
Cross the North Saskatchewan — "Pointer" and the Musquitoes —
Fertile Plains — Prevalence of Poplars — A cracked Meerschaum —
The fat Dog " Whisky " — Cries of wild Animals — A Cart upsets —
" Lane's" Breaking-in— Smell of the Skunk : Hearne's Notes thereon
—Jack-fish Lake— A Wolf wounded— Sunday at White Mud Lake

CONTENTS.

— Lagrace appears — A bunit Prairie — " Wawpooss " comes down —
Ilorso Hill — Fort Pitt — Messrs. Macaulay and Sinclair — The Dog
nuisance — To the Horse-gnard — Mr. Rowland — Exchanges — The
two Cendrtis — Mr. Sinclair takes leave of his favourite — Fitting
Horse-shoes — M'Kay shoots a largo Wolf — Smoke-fires for the
Horses — Black Mud Hill — A tame little Bird — Meet Mr. Hind —
" Rowlund " thinks himself in Hobbles — A magnificent Sunset

Pages 129-146

CHAPTER XL

FORT EDMONTON.

(August 11 to 16.)

Arrival at Edmonton — Mr. Brazeau — Rev. Mr. Woolsey — The Fort and
its Environs — Mountain Journey planned out — Cree Syllabic Cha-
racters — An ;£ 1 8,000 Subscription^ — A Cree Idiom — A Blackfoot
stripped of his Goods — Authenticity of Catlin's Indian Portraits —
Town Critics on " Travellers' Tales " — Intrusive Dogs — Indian Dogs
described — " Mihekan" — Sleigh-dogs in Summer — Missionary Success
among the Kootanies — A Blackfoot Chief on Polygamy — Comments
thereon — Father De Smet, with Comments — The red-dun Horse :
its Hieroglyphics — Sunday Services — A Laughable Interruption —
Native Music — Horsemanship of Indian Boys — Antoine Blandoine
engaged as Guide — Lapatilque and the Fusees — Pe-toh-pee-kiss, the
Blackfoot Warrior : his Adventure with Mr. Vanderbirt — ^Treachery
of Bridger — Spaniard's Infant can'ied off — The Blackfeet : their
three Tiibes — Blood Indians — Cree and Blackfoot peculiarities —
Scarcity of Half-breeds in United States — Unchastity of Indian
AVomen — Piskan Munroe required as Interpreter — Edmonton
Hunter's " Dag " . . . . . Pages 147-165

CHAPTER XH.

FOllT EDMONTON TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

(August 17 to 31.)

Departure from Edmonton — First Frosts of Autumn — Meet Mr
Moberly : his advice as to Route — The Mission at St. Ann — Pro-

CONTENTS.

tcstant and Roman Catholic Missionaries — Order ond Comfort at the
Mission-House. Its Books and Pamphlets — Purchases of Horses —
Lac des Isles — Horrible Roads — The Pembina and its Scenery —
IJuffalo Creek — Meadow formed by Beavers — Struggle through
Thickets — The Party dressed in Leather — Rifle-practice at Pigeons
and " Partridges " — The Spotted Grouse — First Sight of the Mountains
— An Iroquois Family — " Muskegs " and narrow Tracks — Difficulties
— Fatigues — Disturbance of a Wasp's Nest — Roast Skunk — Gastro-
nomic Details excusable — Immense Firs and Poplars — The River
M'Leod — Wife of Pierre the Iroquois — Her pied Mare : its Bells —
Sheep Pemnucan — Sun-light on a burnt Pine-forest — Through Woods
and Bogs — Glimpse of two Mountain Peaks — La Rivitre d'Embarras
— " Whisky " and Water — Sancho Panza of Dogs — Full view of the
Rocky Mountains — Antoine's Enthusiasm — Gun-covers — Iroquois
Hunters and their Horses — Illness of Pierre's Baby: successful Doctor-
ing — Indian Ideas of the Aurora — Horse-dealing — " Jasper " —
" Moutonne " — Poor " Crerne " — Part from Pierre — " Jasper's " Merits
— Cross the Embarras thirty-seven times — The M'Leod Valley —
Assiniboine Camp-sites — Horses among fallen Timber — Separate
Camp-fires begun — The Red River Men ; their general goodness
of Conduct ..... Pages 166-188

CHAPTER XIII.

MEDICINE TENT RIVER AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

(September 1 to 10.)

The Rocky Mountains — Antoine makes a Fishing-rod — Arthur's Seat —
Axe-work necessary — Camp in a deep Glen — Wild Sheep at a dis-
tance — The Mountain " Whistler" — Ground-Squirrels — Climb after a
White Goat — Siffleur Meat — Medicine Tent River — Mount Lindsay —
The Mountains of Rock : the Rivers : the Trees — Sudden Changes of
Temperature — Camp near a Waterfall — The Dusky Grouse — Climb
the Height-of-Land — Raise a Cairn — " Pointer " and the Porcupine
— Grisly seen — Unsuccessful Chase — ^Tvvo Siffleurs shot — Length of
their Skins — Antoine's quaint Rifle — Shoot several Ewes — Mimroe
brings in a Ram's Head — Toma and the " Saw-mill " — Mark name on
Tree — Description of the View — Head Streams of Athabasca and
North Rivers — Southesk's Cairn — Enter North River Valley — The

xxu

CONTENTS.

" Brigade " ou March : its Moinbors describuil — Sliuut Ewes ami old
Uania— Short niccta a Bear — The way to encounter a Grisly — The
I'luna — Tea veriua StiinuluntH — Shoot several Rams — The Wild Sheep
described — A perilous Slide — A (Ino Ilani leaps from u Rock —
" Arranging " the Slain — Dimensions of six Rams' Heads — Rellec-
tions on Slaughter of large Game — Snow-storm — Meditations —
"Titus Andronicus" — Climb Mountain Spur — Weary walk in the Dark
—Character of the Rocks— Fossils . . Pages 189-221

i:l^

CHAPTEK XIV.

\h>

NORTH RIVER CAMP TO KOOTANIE PLAIN.
(September 11 to 18.)

Mount Dalhousie — " Painted Lady " Butterflies — The Piping Crow —
Vast Precipices like blocks of Masonry — A Meteor, and a Moonlight
Scene — Counter-marches — Differences adju.sted — Lances of the Forest
— Sudden Death of a Horse — White Goats — On the Cliffs in Dark-
ness — Search for a Pass — The Ptarmigan — Difficult Travelling —
Horses dragged up an Ice-bank — Track lost — Over Hcight-of-Land
between North River and North Saskatchewan — Small green Marmots
— Robe of 125 Skins — Shoot five Ewes — About Moccasins — Art-
instinct of the Savage — John Wesley's breadth of view — Long March
«lown a Glen — Pearly-grey Precipices — The Flying-S<iuirrel — Camp
by the Saskatchewan — Shylock and his Judges — Kootanie Plain

Pages 222-235

CHAPTEK XV.

KOOTANIE PLAIN TO OLD BOW FOKT.
(Sejitember 19 to 30.)

Raft across the Saskatchewan — Tlie right Road to Bow River Illness of
Munroe — Candle-making — Over Height-of-Land between North Sas-
katchewan and Bow Rivers — Traces of Bears — Larches appear —
A Miss — Memoranda for Stalkers — Ewe falls over high Cliff — Search
for Wild Goats— Severe Chase — Dangerous Climb — A Lake in a

CONTKNTS.

xxiii

CrjUer — Shoot two Ooiits — Mountain (lout tlcHiTilnul — Bow lUvcr

An <'xtt'iiiiioriMt'il Tout — Siiiiill Caiiip of AH-*inil)oiiicH — rrovisioiis

rtin short- Ur llcotoi's L'iiiiii> nitii Stony Union Huinniit of Moun-
tain- A Nfoose [nax^Ul I'roni ihu IndiiuiH — Scriptunil l*aMsat,'eH copieil
out— II. II .. hought nml exchanged — rruHuntrt to ihu Wivo8— Chil-
ilnn pliiy witli yoiiiiy Horses — A (.'onsnniiitivo I'aticnt — Tho Knifed
Grouse- "The Mountain wlcre the Water IUUh" — Letter in Cree
Byllabic charaiter»~Uow Kiver Vale : its lino Tiniher — DuHtriutiou
of Trees in America — The Destroyers denounced — Gale of Wind :
Camp in a Wood — Moose-nose for Dintier . Pages 230-251

CIIAPTKlt XVI.

OLD now FOllT TO FORT EDMONTON.

(October 1 to 10.)

Arrival at Old Bow Fort — Joy at leaving the ^fountains — Their Alti-
tude — Height of Mount Murchison- Drawbacks to Sport — Qloom
of the Deep Valleys — Vestiges of Bnlfalo — Decrease of their numher
— The Stonies — "Bounding Deer" — Ford the River on "Jasper"
and "Moutonne" — Trout — Tremendous Gale — Tent falls — Find
remains of Carts — Carts and Harness made — Camp of Assinilioines :
their Hynui-singing : their (dd Preacher — Trouhhssome Dogs —
Worthiness of the Mountain Indians : Present promised to them —
Her Majesty's Image — Horses exchanged — Again on the Mart4i —
A really pretty Indian AVoman — Party of American Travellers —
Mutual Aid — Indian Imi)rovidence — Musk-rats — Wild Swans — Cross
lied Deer River — The American Hare — Run a Pdack Bear — Notes
on Sand-rats — Cross Battle River — Pike Creek : Beaver Dams
and felled Trees — A Foal emerges from the Thicket— Cloud Scenery
— A well-seen Dinner — White Mud River — Arrive at Fort Edmon-
ton — Mr. Christie — Civilised Comforts — Reports by Captain Palliser's
Men — Parting with Antoine — Account of Horses kept, lost, etc. —
Letter and Present to the Mountain Assiniboines — Their sub-
scc^uent Sad Fate — Arrangements for further Journey — Amusing
Intrusion of two Blackfeet — Announcement of the Api)roacli of their

Tribe

Pages 252-27'2

JfXlV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVII.

FORT EDMONTON TO FORT PITT.

(October 17 to November. 7. )

Down the Saskatchewan — Melancholy — The Harbingers of Winter —
The Crew of the " Golden Era " — " Whisky's " Desertion— Snow-
storm — Intensity of cold — Frozen in — Messengtrs sent to Fort
Pitt — Captain Palliser threatened by the Blackfeet — Wearisome
Detention — Iced Blankets — Remarks on Lord Lytton's My Novel —
On Shakespeare's balanced Characters — Ou Scott's blemished Heroes
— Milder Weather — On Historical Truth in Poetry — On Taciturn
Heroes in Fiction — Monotonous Life in Camp — Deliverance at last —
Sufferings and Courage of Matheson and Short — Journey resumed —
The Art of Endurance — The 5th of November — Wapiti seen — Meet
Messrs. Chastellain and Isbister — Fort Pitt — Scarcity of Provisions
there — Disease among Horses — Agricaltuial Capabilities — Colony on
the Saskatchewan suggested — Position of Fort Pitt : a centre of Hosti-
lities — Incident of Cree and Blackfoot Warfare — The Blackfoot Con-
federacy — Smalljjox Epidemic in 1870— Characteristics of Indian
Languages — A Blood Indian Woman's Dress — Indian love for Rum —
Value of Horses — Fight between Grisly Bear and Buffaloes — Anecdote

Pages 273-291

^S7

of Grisly Bear and two Indian Hunters

CHAPTER XVm.

FORT PITT TO FORT CARLTON.

(NoveinbiT 8 to 19.)

Departure from Fort Pitt — Winter Attire — Horse-sleds — Mr. Isbister's
Dog-team — Peril of an old Indian Woman — Stalk Buffalo at Horse
Hill — Txxrtle River — Meat from a Hunter's Stage — Winter Trans-
formations of a Landscape— On the Ice of Jack-fish Lake —A
starving little Indian Dog — Thirty below Zero — Meet the "Green
Hands" — Fiery Light on Snow-clad Hills — Blinding Snow-storm:
Track oljliterated — Salt Lake — Buffaloes seen — Innumerable Lakes
— Arrival at Fort Carlton — " Morgan " and "Vermont" — Exchanging

til !

CONTENTS.

XXV

of Horses — " Ned," the Blackloot Pony — Noosing Horses — Choking
of a wild White Mare — Fifty-four below Zero — Leave Fort Carlton
— Mr. Hardisty— Cordial Farewells . . Pages 292-300

CHAPTER XIX.

FORT CARLTON TO TOUCHWOOD HILLS.

(November 20 to 29.)

Cross the South Saskatchewan — Country seems fit for Settlement —
" Berry Pemmican " — Pemmicau characterised — Unreasonableness
of Indian Horses — " Conciliation " — " Ode to Eae Wilson, Esq." —
Exhortations to Horses — Cendrd strays — An Ancient Family's Doom
— Tent-pitching — Fire-building and Fuel — Explosiveness of Poplar
Logs — Fox-running in the Snow — A timely Header — When Fur is
" prime " — The Preparation of Buffalo Robes — Two False Suns —
Benighted on a bare Plain — Arrival in the dark at Touchwood Hills —
Mr. Taylor — European News — Snow-storm — Comfort at the Fort —
Danger incurred when at the " Elbow " — Crees and Blackfeet at War
— Savage Trophies — Re])ort of Jilurder of the Party by Blackfeet

Pages 301-311

CHAPTER XX.

TOUCHWOOD HILLS TO FORT PELLY.

(November 30 to December 8.)

Leave Touchwood Hills Fort—" Jasper " left behind : his Death —
Intensity of the Cold — Agamemnon's Speech — Power of Shake-
speare's words to strengthen the Spirit — First Trial of Snow-shoes —
Horses unfit for Winter Travelling— Cold crushes Fire— Half-way
to Fort Pelly — A Winter Bill of Fare — Snow-shoes described — Lap-
land Skidor — Slightly Frost-bitten — Sufferings of the Horses — Two
of them give out — Farewell to Cendru ! his sixccessful Struggle —
The Guide Frost-bitten— On Gratitude and Ingratitude — True Prayer
not a demand — Ceiidre t;to])s again — Camp by the Assiuiboine
— Fiui' Spruces- Narrow Esl;i|k' i'u,m u fallingTree— Uidc to Pi-lly

Missiion-hou^c — Mi. Murray's Duji-eaiioh:

Pages 312-321

'I !

xxvi CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXI.

FORT TELLY.

(Decoiuber 9 to 26.)

Site and Aspect of Fort Pelly — The Peaceable Saulteaux — The River
Assiniboine — Loril Lytton's "Haunters and Haunted" — Horses,
Cattle, and Farm — Sunday Service — The Rev. Mr. Settee — John
Newton — Slow Evangelisation of the Indians — Game in the District
— Manners and Customs of the Wolverine — Old " Clippy " — The
Company's dealings with the Indians — Spirits not a medium of
Barter — " Regales " — Distinction between the Company's position in
the Northern and Southern Districts — A Mulatto's Birthday —
An Indian objects to the Missionaries' Paradise — A Woman's Grave —
Her drunken Husband — A Mourner in the Mountains — Indians: their
liability to Illness — Their " Medicine-men " bad Physicians but good
Surgeons — Anecdote of two Trappers slain by Sioux — Controversy
between a Catholic and a Protes-lant — Bitterness worse than false
Doctrine — Unsuccessful Beaver-hunt — Beaver Meat — Artificial
Boundaries unsatisfactory — Probable future Boundary between
British Territory and the States — Lake Winipeg and the North
Saskatchewan the true Route from Canada to the Pacific — Mr.

Pages 322-333

Dawson's Map — Conuuunion Service at the Fort

CHAPTER XXH.

roRT TKLLY TO FORT GARRY.

(Dcet'iiiber 27, 1859, to January 8, 18C0.)

Dc'iiarture from Fort Pelly — M'Kay and Short remain — Dng-carioli!
and Dog-sleds — Kline becomes Guide — Accident to M'Beath : his
Uncle joins an early Breakfast — Mid-winter at the ^lackeiizic River
— Kline's Snow-shoes — Frost beside Fire : Icicles on "Othello" —
Crossing of Swim Luke — Clieck to a Frost-bite- -I'^iiciunpmcnt among
snow-clad Pines — The Old Year buried, and tin.- New Year born —
On Lake Winnepagos— A Team of Indian Dugs — The Driver's Voia-

CONTENTS.

xxvu

biliary — Cruelties practised on Sleigh-dogs — Interpose on their
behalf — Duck Bay — The Log-house and its Conifoit — Winnepagos
crossed — Peninsula between it and Lake Manitobah — A Saulteaux
buried alive there — Martyrdom of a Roman Catholic Priest — Rough
Roads on Frozen Lakes — Meet Le Rond — Sir Francis Sykes — Hate-
I'ulness of Carriole travelling — Manitobah Fort — Lakes Winnepagos
and Manitobah : their Extent and Character — Parts of the former
Saline — Mr. Monkman's Hospitality — A warm Room— Oak Point
— Roman Catholic Mission-house — Loiterers by the Way — Hardihood
of Kline and Taylor — Eighteen Hours' Journey to White Horse
Plains— Costume of the Half-breeds— Settlers' Architecture — Mr.
Rowand's handsome House — James M'Kay in his Cariole — Arrival at
Fort Garry Images 334-350

CHAPTER XXIII.

FOllT GARRY.

(January 9 to 24.)
Society of Old Friends — Bishop's Court — " The Nor'-Wester : " the
first Newspaper published in the Settlement — The License Laws —
Meeting on Religious Revivals — Address the Meeting ; Errors of
some Revivalists : George Herbert quoted — Christianity among the
Assiuiboines — Rev. Mr. Woolsey's Letter — Mr. Mackenzie lost in the
Snow : his Funeral — Service at the Protestant Cathedral — Rev. Mr.
Black of the Free Church — Laws against selling Spirits to Indians —
Agriculture — Cattle — ^Marshes — Drainage — Scarcity of Wood —
Labour — Scottish and French Half-breeds : their characteristics,
moral and i>hysical — Scottish Settlers — Population almost halved
between Protestants and Roman Catholics — Population of Province
of Manitobah in 1872 — English Settlers and their Wives — The
Editors of the " Nor'-Woster" — !M'Kay and Short arrive from Fort
Pelly — Service in St, James's, on llie Assiniboine — Infantine Distuvb-
ancos in Churcli — Take leave of the Red River Men — Farewell
Coninicndations — Tlie Bishop of Rupert's Land and Miss Anderson —
;Mr. Mactavish : Sorrowful Notice of his Death Pagis 351-305

II !
1

xxviii CONTENTS.

. . .., CHAPTER^ XXIV.

^ . ,F.0]J'j:,(3A,RRY T-9^ ENGLAND.

'•"■'" (January 25 to February 19.)

Departure from Fort Garry — Mr. Fortescue — Sheet of Electrical Flame
from Buffalo-robes — Kline makes a long Day's Journey — Pembina
— Supper and Ball at M. Eolette's — Snake Eiver : Trees cracking
from Frost — Arrive at Otter-tail City — Hospitably received by
Colonel Sawyer — Lake Otter-tail : the Source of Red River — Leaf
Lake City — Eclipse of the Moon — Crow-wing City — Larue's Tavern
— " Hole-in-the-day," the Ojibway Chief : his Drunkenness and his
Wealth — His warlike Predecessor — Crow-wing to St. Paul — Arrival
at New York — Hospitable Friends — Sir Edward Cunard offers a
Passage in the " Etna" — Sir James Anderson — Voyage Home

Pages 366-371

APPENDIX.

Remarks on " The Winter's Tale " .

"Hamlet"

"Macbeth" .

" Merchant of Venice "
„ "OtheUo"

Comments on a Sermon
Reflections on Patience and God's Providence
Comments on Bunsen's " Ilippolytus "
Letter from Rev. Thomas Woolsey .

I'AIJE

373
374
403
406
409
413
415
417
420

irical Flame
— Pembina
es cracking
received by
ver — Leaf
le's Tavern
es8 and liis
il — Arrival
,rd offers a
[ome
js 366-371

INSTITUTE.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

SEPARATE ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. /

Mount Dalhousie — North River Valley
Survey and Eye-sketch op The Elbovt .
Head of a Buffalo Bull

Frontispiece.
To face page 77
96

The Rocky Mountains, from the Embarras River
Mount Lindsay — near Medicine Tent River .
View from Camp in Medicine Tent Valley

PACE

373

S Head of a Rocky Mountain

374

403

406

fl ENGRAVING

409
413

m Minnehaha Falls

415

'm Waterspout

417

S Cart-wheel Scow

420

|H Red River Fire-bag

'w/L A Lob-stick

M Half-breed's Spanish Saddle

\m Cree Pattern

^» Ceee Whip

^1 Head of a Cabree

..f^ Skin-canoe Frames

180
193
201
215

PAGE
11

21
23
39
44
45
59
64
83
88

XXX

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Skull of a Buffalo Ox .
Buffalo-hide Line
Edmonton Hunter's Dao
Skunk Roasting

Wooden Spur ....
Whisky . . . . .

Mountain in" Medicine Tknt Valley
AssiNiDoiNE Pipe and Stem

ASSINIBOINE KnIFE-SuEATH AND FlRE-BAG

Snow-shoe and Skida
Kline's Snow-shoes
Red River Fire-bag

LITHOGRAPHS.

Letter from the Mountain Assiniboines
Cree Syllabic Characters

PAdE

lOG
120
1G5
175
176
179
194
258
2G1
316
335
350

To face imcjc 250
422

MAPS.

Sketch Map of part of the Rocky Mountains To face pa<jc 234
Route Map from Crow-wing to Rocky Mountains . End

CHAPTER I.

NIAGARA, LACHINE, ST. PAUL, CROW-WING.

TOWAEDS the close of 1858, while visiting at the house of
a friend, I happened to mention my desire to travel in some
part of the world where good sport could be met with among
the larger animals, and where, at the same time, I might re-
cruit my health by an active open-air life in a healthy climate,

" Why not go to the Hudson's Bay country ? " said one,
who of all men was perhaps the best qualified to speak,
exercising as he did a very powerful influence in the councils
of the great Company that dominated those enormous terri-
tories in British North America. "The country is full of
large game, such as buffalo, bears, and deer ; the climate
exactly what you require. If you decide on it," continued
INIr. E. , " I will write to the Governor, Sir George Simp-
son, and ask him to advise you as to your plans and arrange-
ments. On the part of the Company, I can safely promise
you every assistance it is able to give."

The more I considered this proposal, the better it pleased
me. Such an opportunity seemed far too good to be lost ; so,
not long afterwards, I renewed the subject in correspondence

with ;Mr. E. , and with many thanlcs availed myself of

his tempting offer.

It was settled that my departure should be towards the
end of the following spring, so as to enable me to meet Sir

NIAGARA, LACHINE,

t'lIAP. I.

I' I

George in Canadii, in time to acconipuny liini thence in liis
annual journey to Fort Garry, the capital of tlio lied Riv(M-
Settlement. Tliis jdace was to be the base of my own inde-
pendent expedition to the plains and mountains of the Far
West.

On the 15ih of April 1859 I sailed from LiverjKJol in the
Cunard steamer Africa, then under the command of Captain
Anderson.* She was a paddle-wheel vessel, and, though not
fast, had the merit of being more steady in a rolling sea than
screw-steamers usually are. However, I was not soriy to
leave her, when, on the afternoon of the 28th, we made our
arrival at New York.

1 found myseU most comfortable at the Brevoort House,
an excellent hotel in Fifth Avenue, recommended to me by

Mr. K , a fellow-passenger, to whose kindness I was in

many ways indebted ; but I did not linger long in the
bustling city, tliough very hospitably treated there, having
little business to detain me, and being anxious to make sure
of reaching Lachine before Sir (reorge's dejjarture, no certain
date having been fixed for the commencement of his official
journey. I resolved, liowever, that nothing should prevent
me from visiting Niagara ; and in adopting this plan T
gained the advantage of companionship for part of my way,
by travelling thus far with Captain Anderson of the Africa,
who had some little time to occujjy before his return voyage,
and was glad to employ it by joining me in an expedition to
the Falls.

Munday, Mttii 2(1. — We set out at an early hour, making
our journey by the Erie line, which, aft^r some consideration,

* NdW Hiv .liiincs AiidrrMiii ; kiii^ililcil fur lii.s scrvicos in ('omK'ctidii
wUli llic I;iyiii^' III' tlic Atlaiitir calilc, wlicii ra|itiiiii of the (ireat KastiTii,
in 1)>«5.

niAi'. I.

ST. I'AUL, C1K)VV-WIN(}.

wo had chosen in jneterenco to tlit udsoii lliver route. I
know not if we judged rightly, hut at the time we saw no
reason whatever to regret our choice. ' The Erie line is very
hoautit'ul ' — so runs my journal. . . . ' 1 stood on the platforjn
outside the carriage for more than an hour, as we went up
tjie Delaware vale, where the scenery is lovely — river, rock,
and hill, and endless forest, broken only along the water-side
by settlements and partial clearings.

' After leaving Elniira we came to the Seneca Lake, — long
and narrow, like a vast river, with its clear blue water
bounded by hills disi)laying well-arranged farms, mingled
with woodlands so skilfully disposed by nature as to seem as
if placed by the hand of some wonderful landscape-gardener.
The sun shone gloriously, and I thought that a more en-
chantuig scene of placid, smiling loveliness had never met
my eyes.'

May 3d. — Having passed the previous night at Ilochester,
the farthest ])oint the trains enabled us to reach, we only
arrived at Niaga.ra about 11 o'clock. The Clifton Hotel was
not open, so we took rooms at the ^lonteagle, a uewly-estab-
lishcd hotel near the Suspension IJridge, and then set forth
on our expedition to behold the wonders of the mighty cata-
ract.

' We looked down from Table Kock, we climbed under
the Canadian Fall, we visited the burning well, crossed over
at the ferry, stood at the foot of the American Fall, explored
Goat Island, and ascended Prospect Tower. .....

As to the Falls themselves, I was neither greatly astonished
nor much disappointed. Guided by drawings and descrip-
tions, I had imagined beforehand something very near the
reality, except that the width was greater and the height less
than I had expected. I have now seen the famous Niagara,

NIAGARA, LACHINE,

(IIAV. I.

and honestly confess it would yive mo little concern never to
see it again. It is too huge, and the disgustingly obtrusive
civilisation that crawls over its sides turns my very heart sick.
A small name on a map is more easily found than one in letters
of excessive size, and so a narrower, higher cataract would
strike more sharply on the mental vision, than low-statured,
wide-spreading Niagara. Seneca Lake is more lovely and
lovable than an endless stretch of becalmed ocean, lie it not
supposed that I felt no delight in the beauty and grandeur of
the noble cataract. No one could fail to be impressed in
beholding an oly'ect so sublime, but the impression rests
rather on the mind than in the heart.

' Besides the other drawback.', the rock formation at and
near the Fall is poor both in colota and outline : but it is the
all-pervading vulgarism which eurrounds it that makes the
whole scene distasteful to me — so far as such is the case.
The Canadian side is not strikingly offensive, but the Ameri-
can side teems with glaring wooden structures hanging over
the very precipice, down which, moreover, a staircase enclosed
in a hideous wooden oox conducts the public to the ferry-boat,
or to a small steamer which fizzes about as close to the cata-
ract as it dares to go. Some wretched person has built a
mock ruin on a little island that actually overhangs the Fall.'

3fai/ 4:th. — I took leave of my companion, and going on
alone by rail to Kingston, on Lake Ontario, and thence by
steamer down the St. Lawrence, I arrived at Lachine in good
tmie on the evening of the following day.

Sir George Simpson welcomed me very cordially to
Hudson's Bay House, where a room was put at my disposal ;
and in thii large, plain, comfortable dwelling, I passed the
next three days, which were made most agreeable to me by
the hosjiitable attentions of Mr. and Mrs. Mackenzie, then

ClIAl'. I.

ST. PAUL, CROW y¥'INO.

permanently resident at that Post. I also receivei rniicli
kindness, in various ways, from niatiy different (luartr s.

Mondai/, May 9th. — We fairly set out on our juurnt^y
towards the distant regions of the west, making our departure
from Lachino about 6 A.M., by the early morning train. The
party consisted of Sir George Simpson ; Mr. Hopkins, his
secretary ; and Mr. Cameron, an officer in the Company's
service, — who was only going with us to St. Paul. Our
attendants were four in number — James Murray, Sir George's
servant, a Shetlander ; my own man, Duncan Robertson, a
Perthshire highl.ander, who acted as one of my gamekeepers
when at home in Scotland ; lastly. Baptist and Toma, two
Iroquois voyageur.s, who had been constantly employed as
Sir George's canoe-men on his previous expeditions to Red
River by the usual Canadian route.

That night we slept at Toronto, where, at the Rossin
Hotel, we were met by Mr. Kane, author of The Wander-
ings of an Artist in North America, also by Dr. Rae, the
well known Arctic explorer.* The latter was to travel with

* I (liinuot resist the temptation to quote the following most appropriately
worded passages from a very interesting and graphic volume published in
1848. — " The stranger introduced himself as Dr. llae. He was on his way to
York Factory for the purpose of fitting out at that port an expedition for the
survey of the small part of the North American coast left unexplored by
Messrs. Dease and Simpson, which will then prove beyond a doubt whether
or not there is a communication by water between the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans round the north of America. Dr. Rae appeared to be just tlie man
for such an expedition. He was very muscular and active, full of animal
spirits, and had a fine intellectuul countenunce. He was considered, by those
who knew him well, to be one of the best snow-shoe walkers in the [H. B.
Co.'s] Service, was .also an excellent rifle shot, and could stand an immense
amount of latigue . . . There is every reason to believe that this expedi-
tion will be successful." In a footnote, the writer adds — "Since this sheet
was prepared for press, I have heard of the return of Dr. Kae from his suc-
cessful discoveries." — Ballantvne, Hudson's Bay, p. '2'25.

■J 41

4' I

niacama/i-aciiink,

III \y. I.

IIS on tlio t'ollowin^r duy, lint only ns lui' as lliiniilton ; Iio
]in])P(l, however, to join ns al'terwiinla at St. Paul, and tlieneo
accompany onv party to JIe»l Itiver.

llaviii"^ jtas.sed Tuesday ni;,dit at J)eti'oit, we set oil' lor
Cliica<,'o liy niorninj,' train on tlui Utii. — 'A very tine hot day.
The trees, which in the eastiM'ly Canadian ilistricts wiu'O leaf-
less, are here half covered with lbliaj;e. The farther west we
j?o, the finer seems the land and the more llonrishiny; the
towns. A few western-looking men got into the; train, — tall,
))owerful, active, of the lymphatic-sangnine type. Each
carried a long ritlo, and wore a Avallet on his back. Fine
cattle (like Herefords) to be seen after crossing into the
States. . . .

' Chicago is a finely built town of 120,000 iidiabitants.
It is situated on Lake Michigan — a true inland sea. To-day
the water was smooth as a mirror, and of a beautiful colour
between blue, green, and grey. While taking a sherry-
cobbler at the bar of the Iiiehmond Hotel, I talked to the
Herman who keejts the cigar store there. He tells me there
are from ."$0,000 to 40,000 (Jermans in this town ; but, lor his
part, he says, he wishes he were back in Hanover.'

May Vltli. — Leaving Chicago in the morning, W(! travelled
by way of Madison and Trairie du Chien, and embarking in
the Milwaukio steamer, pursued our journey up the stream of
the Mississijipi Kiver. — ' The country after leaving the Chi-
cago jmiirie is undulating: of limestone formation, producing
stunted oak instead of the [)ine and soft deciduous wood of
Canada. The snake-fence is less common here, and owing to
its absence, and the use of jdain post and rail instead, also to
the prevalence of oak copses, the landscape looks far more
English. The whole country is now much ilooded, the water
being higher than has been known since (I think) LS2G. Sir

( IIAI'.

ST. I'AUL, cijow Wiser

({♦'oi'fjn (loulita if wc; sliiiU ]h>, aide to <^ct on lioyidid St. Paul, —
it will 1)0 II wot rido at all evc'iit«. Tho MiHsi.s.sippi was in
hij,'li flood, aubiiKir^Mii^ most of tlici willows that ^tow on its
l)iiidvs, which tlu^instdves aro a soriiis of ])ictin(!S(Hi('ly wooihul
hills, with horizontal strata of limcstono rock crojipin*^ out
here and thcn^.'

W(! arrived at St. Paul, the chirf town of ^finnosota, at
11 r.M. on Friday the KUh, and ])ut iij) at tho KuUor House,
iin iiunicnsu but not un(U)nd'ortablu hotel of the regular
American ty))e.

Ma// l4</i. — Sir George was made so uneasy by continued
rumours that tlu; country beyond Crow-wing was impassaldy
iimndated, a notion which the Hooded state of tho ^lississiit|)i
seemed to confirm, that he began to talk of return ii.g, and
ciiuoeing it as usual by Lake Superior, instead of attem])ting
the new route. Wo hardly supposed him in earnest, and at
any rate expected to stay a few days longer, on tho chanc
of the arrival of the Ited lUvor men who were bringing us
carts and horses from Fftrt Garry ; to our great surprise,
however, he suddenly announced his resolve to set out that
very afternoon, giving us only three hours to complete our
])reparations. He had heard that Kitson, an American fur-
trader, whose ])arty had left just two days before for the
north, was still halted at Crow-wing, al)out 130 miles distant,
and, dreading the Hoods, it was his inti^ntion to try to over-
take him, so as to get help from his people in crossing the
many swamps and rivers that lay in our road.

So early a start was most inconvenient to all of us, for
we had reckoned on time to make a few necessary purchases.

I was by far the chief sufferer, having much to provide
ujyself with for my long future journey ; — I wanted to Imy
horses, I required a waggon and double harness, and various

♦ 1

'^^^^

;!i I

NIAGARA, LACHINE,

CHAP. I.

"" liii^

■ ,i

other tilings not likely to be got so well, if at all, elsewliere.
My guns and saddle too, %\'hicli were on their way from
Canada in bond, had not yet arrived, — but there was no help
for it, we were all bound to obey our leader, even if we
thought his decisions doubtful or mistaken.

At 3 P.M., accoi'dingly, we all set out in a roughly built,
but light and easy waggon and four, with ranges of seats in
the char-a-hanc fashion, and a stout canvas tilt and curtains
protecting us around and overhead. Our journey, however,
was destined to a speedy finish, for on reaching St. Anthony,
after a seven-mile stage, the first person who greeted us was
James M'Kay, the leader of the party we had been expecting
from Eed Eiver, His report was reassuring : he had found
the country everywhere passable, the roads in good order, and
the swamps tolerably free from water, though the rivers were
unusually swollen. There was nothing, in short, to stop our
journey, and no reason to anticipate serious difficulty or
delay.

On hearing this, Sir George, who had full confidence in
M'Kay's judgment, at once decided to go back ; there being
now no object in joining Kitson, who, as matters had turned
out, was probably by that time well on his way ; so we
gladly stepped into the waggon again, and returned to our
old quarters at St. Paul.

James M'Kay accompanied us. His appearance greatly
interested me, both from his own personal advantages, and
because he was the first lied Eiver man that I had yet
beheld. A Scotsman, though with Indian blood on the
mother's side, he was born and bred in the Saskatchewan
country, but .ifterwards became a resident near Fort (Jarry,
and entered the Company's employ. Whether as guide or
hunter, he was universally reckoned one of their best men.

CHAP. I.

ST. PAUL, CROW -WING.

Immensely broad-chested and muscular, though not tall, he
weighed eighteen stone ; yet in spite of his stoutness he was
exceedingly hardy and active, and a wonderful horseman.

' His face — somewhat Assyrian in type — is very hand-
some : short, delicate, aqidline nose ; piercing dark grey
eyes ; long dark-brown hair, beard, and moustaches ; white,
small, regular teeth ; skin tanned to red bronze from ex-
posure to weather. He was dressed in Red Eiver style — a
blue cloth " capot " (hooded frock-coat) with brass buttons ;
red-and-black flannel shirt, which served also for waistcoat ;
black belt round the waist ; buff leather moccasins on his
feet ; trowsers of brown and white striped home-made
woollen stuff.'

I had never come across a wearer of moccasins before,
and it amused me to watch this grand and massive man
pacing the hotel corridors with noiseless footfall, while
excitable little Yankees in shiny boots creaked and stamped
about like so many busy steam-engines.

At St. Anthony we also met Captain Blakiston, of the
Eoyal Artillery, who had arrived with M'Kay, on his return
from the Government Exploring Expedition, in which he had
been associated with Captain Palliser. He, likewise, was for
the most part dressed in Red River fashion, and bore very
evident traces of two years' severe work in the far west.
There was another important addition to our party that
evening — Dr. Rae, who had fortunately found himself able
to carry out his intention of joining us. We were now to be
fullow-travellers, as far at any rate as Fort Garry.

Monday, May IG^/t. — After trying a number of horses, of
all sorts and kinds, belonging to various owners, I bought
from the JNIessrs. TUirbank a pair of large stout brown waggon-
ponies, for which I paid about £70 in dollars ; also a very

i*l

NIACIAHA, LACHINE,

CIIAV. I.

i lilt:
Ml

good young bay liorso of the same doscviption, Imt larger,
lieing 15i liaiuls liigli, for about 40 guineas. I succeeded in
getting an excellent new hickory waggon, light and strong,
for £17, and a useful second-hand set of waggon harness, also
at a sutlficiently reasonable price. With some searching I
then discovered a saddle of the P2nglish shape, very badly
made in every resjiect, but I was glad to buy it for £5, for it
was the only one to be heard of. Elsewhere there were only
Spanisli saddles, than which no more detestable invention
can be imagined. The rider might as well attempt to sit
inside a pitchfork.

I was more fortunate in my next ])urchase, consisting of
a pair of exceedingly handsome ponies, a little under 14 hands
in height, which I bought for about £30 apiece, ]>oth of them
were Vermont bred, and hav'ngbeen regularly driven togeth(>r
by their former owner during long excursions in the forests,
they had become great friends, and were never happy when
parted from each other's society. The slighter one, a rpiiet,
thoroughbred-looking bright bay, with veiy small and peculiar
ears, I called Vermont, from the place of his nativity ; tin;
other, a dark-brown, with black points and a white blaze on
his front face, — a noble little horse with nu:>st splendid action,
as gentle as a landi, Ijut full of fire and spirit, — I nami'd
Morgan, after the celebrated breed from which he came. The
brown waggon-horses, it was settled, were to be thencefortli
known as Paul and Anthony, the young bay horse as Don.

Maj/ 17th. — Sir George, Hopkins, and I, made an expe-
dition to see the Minnehaha Falls, which had become so
celebrated through Longfellow's beautiful poem. Our drive
was pleasant in itself, but disa]ipointing as regarded its main
object, for the river — which bounds in one clear shoot over
a liuiestone rock son»e 50 feet in height — is a very insigni-

ii!

CIIAl'. t,

ST. PAUL, CUOW-WINO.

licant stvoani, altlimioli at its fullost at the tinio wo saw it.
The scene is pretty, l)ut no more ; it wonkl have little interest
were it not associated with Hiawatha's story.

MINNKHAIIA lAI.I.S.

Mitji IStJi. — Oft' at last. We travelled in the same hired
char-a-banc with canvas tilt, the "stage" in which we made
our former fruitless journey to St. Anthony. Our road led u])
the courseof the Mississippi, through llatuuinteresting prairies,
over whicli we jolted for many a weary hour till we reached
Saux IJapids, where we took up our night's abode at the
Hyperborean Hotel. The landlord, a Canadian with u Scot-
tisli wife, was a very good-humoured obliging host ; he and
his exerted themselves for our comfort with much ^^al and

energy.

After dinner

I tried a well-bred, handsome horse, highly

12 NIAGARA, LACHINE, ST. PAUL, CROW- WING. chap. i.

praised by his owner, and spoken of as likely to answer well
for buffalo-running. He was fast enough, certainly, but both
awkward and restive, so I did not buy him, though rather
advised to do so, rightly supposing thnt a half-broke animal
would add too much to the difficulties of an unfamiliar sport.
May IWi. — The next day's travelling, still over level
plains only partially settled, brought vis to Crow-wing, a
village of no great size, where we took our final leave of the
stage- waggon, as we descended from it at the door of Morri-
son's Inn. Awaiting us there we found James AI'Kay, with
everything arranged and ready for a start next morning at
tlie earliest signs of dawn.

CHAPTER II.

CEOW-WING TO FORT GARRY.

May 20th. — Our night was one of restlessness and broken
slumbers, through the inroad of every hateful tormentor.
Little mattered such annoyances ! At daybreak we left all
troubles behind us, mounted our good steeds, and made a fair,
auspicious start for the wilderness, the forest, and the plains.
What gladness swelled within my heart — oh ! never shall I
forget it — as I felt the gallant little Morgan bounding and
dancing beneath me, scarce able to control himself for joy,
while we passed through the pleasant woods on that lovely
summer morning, when all nature seemed so fresh and beauti-
ful and sweet. At last, thought I, at last, the prisoner of
civilisation is free !

Dr. Kae rode at my side on well-bred handsome Vermont.
Sir George, who was in but indifferent health, travelled by
liimself in a light Canadian cart, which was furnished with
curtains and a canopy on poles. The Iroquois Toma drove
Paul and Anthony in my waggon ; Short, a Scotch half-
breed, conducted the lied River cart, a stout two-wheeled
vehicle of the toughest quality though entirely ma " ' of
wood, wheels, body, shafts, and all, being fitted together with-
out a single particle of iron. The other men rode ; and the
spare horses, of which M'Kay had brought a considerable
number, ran freely alongside and never attempted to stray
from their companions.

. I .

CROW -WING TO FORT GARRV,

I'llAi', II.

Oil loavinj^f Crow-wing wo crossed tlio ]\Iississi))pi in ii
large flat b.ii'ge, of the sort known us u " scow," which took
over the horses and vehicles as well as ourselves and our
haggage. After this the road l)ecanie a mere rough track.
For some time, however, it ran through a pine forest, in
many parts of noticeable gi'owth, and was tolerably sound
and hard, though intersected by a few tritiing swamps.

About 12 o'clock we halted for breakfast — not a moment
too soon in any one's oi)inion, for we had been about seven
hours on horseback, — and did great justice to eggs and bacon,
biscuits and butter, accoTni)anied with the universal dri'ik of
tlie Company's service — remarkably excellent tea. This mid-
day halt is but seldom a long one ; we were soon again on the
road. The swampy places gvcw more freipient and trouble-
some, till at length, at " jSIiry Creek," Ave were obliged to stop
and make a portage, — that is to say, to transfer all the
I'aggage from the carts to the shoulders of the men, who
carried it across the swamp, while the lightened vehicles were
dragged through as could be.st be managed. I witnessed this
operation for the first time, and was astonished at the strength
and liardinessof our practised voyageurs, M'Kay in particular
showed the most wond(nful enei'gy. Up to his waist or chest
in the clinging mud or the .sluggish black water of the creek,
now passing heavy ]»ackages across, now dragging reluctant
animals through the mire, all came alike to him, and his
cheerfulness never flagged.

This portage delayed us more than an hour. Soon after-
wards we had to make another over Swan Creek, a swollen
brook, but as there was no mire we managed this easily by
means of an india-rubl)er canoe. I'v that time it was nearlv
!^ o'clock, so M'Kay decided to halt, and at once led us to an
excellent cum|ting i>lac(', when; a grove of line Scots firs

( IIAI'. II.

CllOW-WJNG TO FORT OAURY.

stood ill scattered groups upon an (ilcvatod sandy flat, near
whicli flowed with calm Imt powerful sweep the broad and
swollen stream of the Crow-wing IJiver *

The weary horses were set free, tents pitched, wood cut,
tires lighted. Our simple supper was soon prepared and soon
discussed, then came a ic .v minutes devoted to conversation
aud the pipe or cigar, and then to bed. Our teiits were of
the sort generally known as " boat-tents," about six feet
scpuire inside, and six feet high to the ridge. Two ni^right
poles supported another, loug.tudinally set, over which the
canvas passed, so that the whole looked like a small straight-
sided cottage, with the entry at one end. Abont two feet
I'rom the ground the slope of the roof ceased, and canvas flaps
went straight downwards till they reached the earth, when
thair ends were turned in and placed under an oil-cloth flooring
which kept all compact and dry.

Sir George and Hopkins occupied one of the tents. Dr.
Uae and I shared the other. We wrapped ourselves in our
lilankets, and my companion was soon asleep. For my own
[»art, this first night under canvas was far from agreeable to
one so lately somewhat of an invalid. A keen frost struck
upwards and downwards through the blankets, making sleep
difhcult, and troops of Whip-poor-wills and other nightbirds
sinieked with a maddening persistency that made it nearly
impossible. After many hours some broken slumber came at
last, and, thanks to the pureness of the air, I rose up toler-
ably fresh and ready for action when the sunmions aAvakened
our silent camp at daybreak.

May 1\d. — Though sunny all the day it was exceedingly
cold, an icy north wind encountering us as we went, and

* " 'I'lif Ojihwii iiiiiiu' for tliis .•stiiMiu is Kiiij-((iii/-i-iix-fiii:oii, iiK'uuiiif^ Civir's
h'liilltrr.''- S(ii(M)|,t'l!AH"r, Intl. Trilns n/ Cn, ,SV«/».s', \ ul. ii. 157.

l^^l

' IH

■ '

rUf,:

H ENi>!

' fl'l

If I V'§>

CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY.

ClfAl'. II.

cliilling us to the very bone. In distnnce our nmrcli was
much tlie same as tliat of the previous day — about five-and-
tliirty miles, but it was far less interesting, being almost
entirely over an imtimberod plain of poor quality, covered in
many parts with an extensive growth of brushwood.

I tried Don for the morning marcli, but lie was so rough
in his paces, that my right knee (tender since a balloon accid(uit
in 1848) began to be painful, and I resolved never to ride
that horse again. After tliis he took his turn at the cart ;
he proved too young and unseasoned, however, for nmch hard
work, so I finally disposed of him at Fort Garry.

Dr. Rao and M'Kay walked forward with their guns
before the whole party started, and, keeping well in front,
they picked up some prairie fowls,* ducks, and plovers, wliich

*• Conimon and widely ditl'iLsed a.s the Prairie-lleii seeiiLS to hv, .some con-
fusion apparently exi.st.s among naturali.sts in regard to it. Of all the Tetra-
onidre, as described by Dr. Kiehurdson and Mr. Swainson in the Fauna,
Borcali'Americanii, there is only one species (besides tin; Ruffed Grouse —
Tctrao vinhcllns) in the least answering to the Prairie-fowl, viz, 2'etmo
(e.entrocercus) phasianellua — The Sha)'2>-tailcd Grouse (length of male 20 inches),
which I rather believe to be the bird in question. In the Zoological Appendix
to Sir John Franklin's Narrative, ann. 1823 (p. C80), by Mr. Sabine, there is
also no detailed description of eny other nearly corresponding species ; but
under the heading Tctrao umbcUus — JhtffrtI Grouse, the author writes : — " This
species is an iidiabitant of wooded countries onlj-, in which it dillers from the
Pinnated Grouse of America, Tctrao cupido, better known under the appella-
tion of the Prairie Hen or Heath Hen." Under the heading 7'clrao jdiasia-
nellius — Sharp-tailed Grouse, tin; same author states, that lanna-us at first
called that bird T. jthasianeUus, but afterwards made it a variety of T.
uronallus ; "and that subsequent experience has proved that the Hrst oinnion
was correct."

In the Naturalist's Libranj, edited by Sir William .lardine (vol. iv.
p. 130), two closely allied species arc described besides the IJuHed Grouse, viz.
— 2'he Pinnated Grouse — 'T'trao euju'do (which is quoted as Linna'us's desig-
nation of it), and the SUarp-tailcd Grouse— Tctrao pli((si((ncllus, the adult mab;
of which is described as being "as large as" the JUiH'eil Grouse, viz. about

! i

CHAP. ir.

CROW-WINQ TO FORT GARRY.

we boiled with rice at supper, to the great improvement of
our former fare.

We camped near Leaf Lake, whose shores were the site
of a " <" y ' which consisted of two wooden Imts.

The Collowing day {Sunday, May 22il) was very warm and
fine, and travelling became altogether more agreeable, for
the road now took us through a pretty and varied country
abounding in woods and lakes.

In the morning we came across two or three Ojibways,
the first of whom was no favourable specimen, — a miserable
object, half naked and quite drunk, a bloated, disgusting
savage. These Indians seemed peaceable and harmless

eighteen inches. Major Ross King, however ( The Sportsman and Naturalvt
in Canada, ann. 1866 — p. 143), only seems to recognise one bird of the kind in
addition to the Iluired Grouse, viz. Tlic Piairie Hen — Cupidonia cupido, and
he describes the male as " averaging nearly three pounds avoirdupois in weight,
not far from that of an ordinary Cock Pheasant " (about double the weight of
nn average Scottish Grouse), and as " measuring about nineteen inches in
length," which approaches the length assigned by Dr. Richardson to the
Teirao phasianellm — viz. twenty inches. Mr. Hind, referring to the Prairie-
fowl in the Roseau .. district, not very far from Red River, designates
them Tetrao cupido {Canadian Red Iliver Exploring ExpcdUion,\o\, i. p. 160).

Amidst this conflict of authorities it is hard to decide, and I can form no
opinion as to whether or not the Sharp-tailed Grouse and the Pinnated Grouse
are distinct. If, though distinct, they are closely-allied varieties, it is possible
1 may have shot specimens of both without observing the difference. I am
disposed, however, to think that the birds we so constantly met with moi?
resembled in size the former than the latter. My men used to speak of them
as " Pheasants ; " and, all things considered, I incline tr identify them with
Dr. Richardson's " Tetrao j)hasiancllus ;" — " Awkiscow—Qxea Indians ; Phea-
sant — Hudson's Day residents." — (Faun. Bor. Am. vol. ii. p. 361).

Otherwise, one is forced to the strange conclusion that one of the
commonest birds in the Hudson's Bay Territories has been omitted from a
book expressly relating to the zoology of that country, — a work prepared by
several distinguished natundists, among whom Dr. Richardson, at any rate,
was intimately acquainted with those northern parts of America, having been
engaged in both of Sir John Franklin's overland expeditions.

m n{

I'ln

. i\

CROW-WING TO FOKT OAIJIIY.

c'liAr. ti.

enough, but we presently tell in with a very dangerous party
of the sni;;o tribe.

y>lv. were just entering a fine level prairie, which stretched
a good twelve miles to the front, when we noticed a band of
armed Indians posted on a mound that commanded the road.
1'hey evidently exiiected us, for one of them instantly ran to
intercei)t llt)pkins and M'Kay, who were riding foremost,
threw himself in their way, and tried hard to stop them,
loudly clamouring for presents.

Sir George called to us to go on. We pressed forward.
At that moment the Indian made a spring, and clutched at
M'Kay's rein ; but the latter very (juickly got rid of him,
seizing the fellow's hand in such a gripe that he danced
with pain and astonishment, and went staggering to the other
side of the track.

Another Indian snatched at the wheel of Sir George's
cart, but failed to keep his hold ; and as we went steadily
onwards, the villains thought better of it, and let us pursue
our course, but before we had gone fifty yards they had the
insolence to fire a bullet over our heads ; then the whole
band began to shout and make grossly insulting gestures.
Such impertinence was hard to bear, and some of us felt
inclined to turn back and try conclusions with them ; Sir
George, however, begged us not to notice their insults, point-
ing out that any injury received at our hands would only be
revenged upon future travellers. lie might have added that
we should certainly have got the worst of it, the enemy being
more numerous and twice as well armed.

It was forturate that we were a rather strong-looking
l)arty, for these Indians were of an Ojibway band called
" Les lUllageurs," * notorious for their daring rascality. As

* " Tlio naiue of The rilliigeis, or Muk-iui-JHu-win-in-c-mig, pillnge-nu'ii,

ciiAr. II.

CROW-WING TO FORT (iARRV

roccntly as the foregoing year they hud wantonly shot
two horses behmging to some Iletl lUver hulf-bret;tls who
happened to bo passing ah)ng tliat already niuch-fre(|uentod
track.

Later in the day wo crossed Little lied lUver, and in
course of the afternoon traversed another considerable prairie,
covered all over with the long, withered herbage of the bye-
gone season. Taking no heed of this store of inflammable
stuff, I carelessly threw away a match with which 1 had been
lighting my meerschaum ; in an instant the prairie was in a
blaze. The wind speedily bore the flames away from us,
and ere long the conflagration raged far and wide. I never
heard to what extent it spread, but for hours afterwards we
could see its lurid glow illuminating the darkness of the
distant horizon.

Morgan carried me beautifully the whole forty miles of
the march, and came in as fresh as when he started. He
was quiet and gentle, spirited and handsome, perfect in all
his paces ; a more charming ])ony it would be impossible
to imagine.

A few early mosquitoes showed themselves, the pioneers
of the coming legions — ill-omened sight !

May 2od. — We started at 4 a.m., and rode till 9, passing

waa given to them by their fellow Ojibwas ami whites, on account of their
having taken away the goods of a trader about eighty years ago [about 1770],
at the mouth of a creek still known as rillagc Creek, emptying into the
Crow-Wing river. The band is also noted for their wildness, and as lu'ving
on several later occasions acted to the letter of their name in their dealings

with traders and missionaries Of the Pillagers, when you ask

them who were their most noted warriors and men, the answer is — ' They all
fought alike ; not one of our fathers passed through life without seeing the
shedding of blood.' " — Schoolciiafj', Hcport vn the Indian 2'rilics of Ike
United iitulen, vol. ii., 153, 165.

:,h

f I

CUOW-WING TO FORT (iAIlUV.

('IIAI'. II.

■.i:'-li. ,

for three liour? tliroii<^h a wood of fine iiiiiplos, iroiiwood, and
brush, not unlike an English forest in u[i[»earance. AVhilo
traversinj,' its bounds the Ivcd Jiiver cart ui)sot, but it was
raised aj^iiin, without inj'ury either to that stout vehicle, or to
Don, who was in the shafts at the time.

After this we enierj,a'd on the banks of Lake Forty-four
(so called from the date of the discovery of this route), a fine
sheet of tlu! clearest water, enlivened by the whit(!n(!ss of a
tlock of swinnning and wading pelicans. We had meant to
halt for breakfast near the lake, but were completely put to
rout by clouds of minute Hies, actually den.so enough to
choke up the horses' nostrils, so wo rode on ior sonio miles
farther, to the next convenient halting-place.

Here mischance continued to follow us ; for our break-
fast fire, being carelessly lighted, began to spread along the
grass, and in a few minutes the wind, taking a sudden tur!i,
blew all the smoke and sparks into our faces, obliging us
to make a rapid retreat into the part already consumed.
The grass being short and crisj) on the barren eminence
where we had posted ourselves, the line of flame never rose
much above a foot from the ground, yet we had hard work to
beat it out, and could scarcely force or persuade the horses to
cross that really insigniticant obstacle.

We now began to ascend to a higher level, and coming
at length to the top of an ascent, a most glorious landscape
opened full ui)on our view. Yav as the eye could reach
swept one enormous plain, its vast extent diversified by the
winding courses of the lied liiver and the Shayenne, and of
many a smaller stream, whose meanderings could be traced
by the trees that clung along thtnr sides in a distinct though
narrow bordcir.

The day had bcjcome intensely hot, it was dillicult to

(JIIAI*. II.

CUOW-WINQ TO FORT OARRY.

Kiyi

iPK^

^^.

:teJ

WATRRSrOUT.

lircatlio, o\w felt almost roady to faiut. Tlumdcrwaa pcaliiiji;

ami lightriiM},' llasliiiig in (liU'creiit parts of tluj sky, but far

distant from us. Suddenly a

phonomonou displayed itself

on tlio south-west lioiizon — a

waterspout (jf gi<,'antic si/e and

singular a])pearanco. Its thin

and lofty stem was surmount(>d

by a far-spreading cloud of

inky blackness ; at the base of the column torrents dashed

upon the earth, rebounding in fountain-like masses of silvery

spray. This grand and uncommon spectacle continued for a

quarter of an hour, then it began to dissolve awoy, and slowly

faded into nothingness.

3fai/ 2Uh. — An amusing though unpleasant incident
happened in the night. Duncan, who was but a novice in
the art of encamping, had thoughtlessly set the Haps of my
tent over the oil-cloth floor instead of imder it, as ho should
have done, — a mistake which unluckily passed unobserved, f(jr
it was hardly perceptible when the blankets were laid down.
Towards midnight I suddenly awoke, and found myself in
a pool of water. A violent thunderstorm was raging, rain
beating furiously on the canvas, and entering beneath the
unfastened flajis ; whole floods streaming in and flowing round
my back and shoulders. The darkness was intense. I
managed to light a candle, and gazing on the cheerless scene
discovered that my own side of the tent was completely
imnidated ; it lay low, and the oil-cloth, instead of running
the water off, had made itself into a reservoir for my benefit.
The other side was better situated, being on higher ground,
and there I beheld my companion. Dr. llac, sound asleep, as
yet undisturbed by the tide, "vvhich only encroached upon his

i»*i

I
'I

-^^

CROW -WING TO FORT GARRY.

CHAT. II.

feet and ankles. He slept quietly on, till in an hour or two
the gradually rising water awoke him.

Little could be done until daylight, but I improved matters
by turning my india-rubber bath bottom upwards, with a
pillow on the top of it, so as to form an island ; on which I
seated myself, after drawing a waterproof over my soaking
shirt, and passed away the time in writing up my journal.

By (] o'clock the rain had ceased. I escaped from the
chilly tent, and, much to my satisfaction, found M'Kay in
the act of kindling a fire, on a dry open piece of ground a
few yards distant. Having extemporised a hut of branches
covered with an oil-skin, he had passed a tolerable night ;
the men, too, had been pretty well sheltered beneath the
carts and w\aggon, and Sir George and Hopkins had slept
very comfortably in their well-pitched tent.

3fai/ 25th. — Owing to rain and mist we had marched but
five miles on the previous day, M'Kay disliking to travel in
wet weather, on account of the injury that damp occasions to
soft leather harness. To make up, we rode twenty miles,
without a halt, that bitterly cold, raw, east-windy morning,
only stopping wiien we readied tlie flooded stream of the
Eice Piiver.

After breakfast we drove the horses across, while M'Kay
built an ingenious scow by stretching our largest oil-skin over
the wlieels of the cart. These ironless wheels have a great
outward set, so that when taken off and laid on their naves
tlie level of the tires rests a foot or more above that of the
ground. Two of them being placed side by side on the oil-
cloth, were firmly tied together ; four poles were then lashed
to each other so as to form an oblong, and this being fastened
upon the wheels, and the oil-skin beneath (a a a) drawn up
and attached to it, a strong and buoyant scow was the result,

CHAP. ir.

CROW-WING TO FORT GARUY.

CAKT-WHEEI. SCOW.

the wheels being at once framework and platform, while the
poles made a steady gun-
wale for the paddles to
work on. — 'The luggage -s
and the vehicles were safely
and speedily ferried over,
M'Kay, as usual, wading
about waist-deep, active
and ready beyond imagina-
tion After this

we had a most weary ride

over a long plain, recently

burned and quite black, and so soft from the heavy rains that

the horses went fetlock-deep at every step, sometimes sinking

to the very hocks. Every brook was a river, every swamp

a lake, the road a swamp. A cold steam rose from the soaked

earth, our spirits were damped, the jaded horses plodded

heavily on The journey seemed endless, for we

could not find a good camping-place, but at length we settled
down near a stream between Eice and Sand-hill Rivers.'

Having borrowed a gun, I went forward while a portage
was making over a small but deep little river, and shot a few
ducks, as well as a prairie-fowl. I felt somewhat pleased in
also shooting two bitterns, but my friends objected to them
for supper, on account of their frog-devouring propensities.
Remembering a highly-approved disli in tlie refreshment-room
at Toronto, it struck me that if we ate frogs ourselves we need
not object to birds that did no worse. The bitterns, however,
were vetoed on this occasion. I often ate them afterwards,
and agree with our forefatliers in thinking them excellent food.

May 2(jth. — After breakfasting on the pretty banks of
the Sand-hill River, at a place where sandy elevations were

i W

CROW- WING TO FORT GARRY.

cuAr. II.

covered with scattered trees, we forded its shallow stream
and passed the baggage across in M'Kay's oil-skin scow.

From this point the track improved, for it quitted the
low moist plains, and ran along at a higher level on a dry and
wholesome prairie.

In the afternoon we observed a small black bear quest-
ing about in the distance, wliereupon M'Kay, with his won-
derful art of making all horses go, immediately coaxed a
gallop out of the wretched lame pony he was riding, and
" ran " the bear, as the phrase is. A black pointer, named
Blucher, joined zealously in tlie chase, turning the beast
several times and worrying at his hind legs ; the coward,
however, showed no signs of fight, though twice as big as his
enemy, and M'Kay presently came up and shot him through
the heart.

This two-year-old bear was miserably thin and ragg"''.
He seemed to have been in straits for food, for there vr
nothing in his stomach more nourishing than ants, many -A
them alive and active ; he had positively swallowed the whole
nest — moss, earth, insects, and all. We varied our supper
witli bear-steaks that night. I thought them particularly
nasty, — lean, coarse, and rank-smelling ; perhaps, however,
tliis was attributable to the animal's want of condition, for
fat bear is spoken of as one of the best of tilings.

All night long the wolves made doleful music in the
wood on the other side of Eed Lake liiver. This deep wide
stream rolled on in heavy flood a few yards below the willows
that sheltered our tents, and as I watched its swift and turbid
current, I could not but wish that everything were safe across.

May 21th, — The crossing of the Red Lake River occupied
us tiU 12 o'clock. M'Kay and Toma began by launching
the india-rubber canoe and leading one of the horses over ;

\ .

\ ■

CHAP, II.

CROW -WING TO FORT GARRY.

pi' r

the rest took the water after a little pushing and driving, and
all got safely to the other side. The baggage was then fer-
ried across in an oil-skin scow, which we towed backwards
and forwards by moans of two ropes.

Then came a hard march of twenty-six mUes without a
halt, mostly along a high gravelly bank of singular character,
with swamps on either hand. Here, to our surprise, we beheld
a tradesmanlike man walking towards us all alone. He proved
to be an American pedlar, who, with true Yankee independ-
ence, was returning companionless on foot after the disposal
of all his cargo at Fort Garry. Excepting the knife in his
pocket he was without a weapon, and there was but little in
the small provision-bag he carried on his back. We won-
dered how he would contrive to pass the Eed Lake Eiver,
which is the worst difficulty in the whole 428 miles of the
journey to Crow- wing. I believe that he waited till another
party came up, and crossed with their assistance.

For the first time the mosquitoes appeared in force. Not
expecting them, I had no gloves with me, and, in spite of
constant watchfulness^ my hands were excessively bitten, and
so empoisoned that they swelled up and grew very pain-
ful, such feverishness succeeding as to prevent me from
sleeping for the whole of the following night. I never again
suffered so much in this way, for the blood gets by degrees
accustomed to the venom of the bites, — there is less inflam-
mation afterwards, though quite as much annoyance at the
moment.

May 28^/i. — We breakfasted early this morning, after
scowing across Snake-hill River, so I borrowed a gun and went
forward in hopes of picking up some game. In this I was
disappointed, and had more than enough of deep wading
through flooded creeks ; but the beauty and freshness of the

III

CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY.

CHAP. II.

morning, and the exquisite singing of thousands of little
birds in the bushes and poplar groves, amply made up to me
for all. My bag, however, was not quite an empty one, for
while waiting at Pine Eiver for the arrival of the carts, I
stalked and shot some pigeons that had settled among the
higher trees up and down the course of the stream.

They were exceedingly pretty birds, rather larger than
turtle-doves, bluish in colour, and chiefly differing from the
common pigeon in the pheasant-like length of their pointed
tails. We often heard their peevish scream, but, from their
wildness, could not succeed in getting many of them.*

Towards afternoon we came to a miserable country, swamp
following swamp, and at length we got entangled in one of
such depth, that poor Don, who was dragging the cart through
it, fairly sat down on his haunches, and I thought we should
never be able to move him.

' The frogs, as usual, never ceased their chirping and
croaking uproar ; cranes were very numerous, uttering con-
tinually their doleful, throat-gargling cry, a sound only
surpassed in wretchedness by the shrieks of the ungreased
cart-wheels, which moaned and screamed like a discontented
panther.'

Sunday, May 2Wi. — The horses strayed, and delayed us
more than half- an-hour, but we made our start at 5 a.m., and
were as far as the first of the Deux Kivieres by our usual
dinner-time. Previously to this we had been traversing a
rich but bare and level prairie of many miles' extent. — ' It is
strange to find oneself on an apparently flat disc of grass,
nothing but grass meeting the plain horizon-line all around.
One feels as if crawling about in view of high Heaven on a

* Columba (Ectopistos) Migratoria, T'lissengpr Piijeon. Mimcumck—Cree
Indians. — Richard.son, Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. ii, p. 363.

CHAP. II.

CROW -WING TO FORT GARRY.

circular table punched out from the world and stuck on a
spike.

' A lovely sunny day, and not too hot. . . . We crossed
the river without accident, thanks to M'Kay's skill and activity,
and camped on the banks of the second of the Deux Eivieres.'

May ^Qth. — There was a break in our journey through the
wilderness when early that afternoon we arrived at Pembina,
near the boundary of the British territories, *a small and
straggling place, not worthy to be called a village,' and
established ourselves at the Company's fort, then under charge
of Mr. M'Intosh. By Sir George's directions all sorts of good
things were specially provided for our dinner. A calf was
killed for the occasion, Gold-Eye fish were procured, — in
short, we were treated to a most excellent meal, doubly
welcome to us after the rough fare of the preceding week ;
which had been little but salt pork, with the addition of such
pigeons, curlews, ducks, and plovers, as we had managed to
pick up by the way.

Our quiet was too soon interrupted by the uproar of a
large band of Saulteaux,* who came and fired salutes close
by in honour of the Governor's arrival. This meant the usual
thing — presents ; but Sir George gave them little encourage-
ment, probably not choosing to countenance irregular demands
from natives in trade relations with the Company, especially
as he was travelling for the first time by this rather recently
developed Minnesota route.

H.1 3

* Or Salteurs, or Sotoos, — one of the branches of the Ojibway tribe, so
named from their residence liaving been near the Sault St. Marie. — V.
Franklin, Journey to the. Polar Sea, in the Years 1819-22, p. 63. Mr. Kane
thus writes on the subject: — " The Saulteaux are a band of the great Ojibbeway
nation, both words signifying * the .Jumpers,' and I derive the name from
their expertncss in leaping their canoes over the numerous rapids which occur
in the rivers of their vicinitj'." — Wanderings of an Artist, p. 82.

I,'

kK.

CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY.

CHAP. II.

ifi

I was disappointed in these Indians. They too much re-
sembled commonplace Europeans, southerners in aspect,
northerners in the forms and materials of their clothing — ' by
no means fine-looking men, but picturesque with their green
or scarlet blankets, and their long, streaming, coal-black hair.'

Mmj Zlst. — Our road was mostly over vast rich plains, and
the only incident of the day was the passage of the Vieux
Marais, a horribly swampy creek, which from its depth offered
a serious obstacle, although only a few yards wide. It was
necessary to take the trouble of unharnessing, and pushing
or hauling the carts across, after a previous portage of the
baggage. The men carried us all over. M'Kay took Sir
George, but I was quite as well placed on Toma's powerful
back, though even he had enough to do in wading this deep
and treacherous morass.

"We were furnished with a strange lot of horses to-day,
which had been taken from the Company's Pembina
establishment to relieve our own jaded animals. Hopkins
rode a showy, skew-bald, Koman-nosed pony, a buflfalo-
runner of some rejmte, but whose chief accomplishment
seemed to consist in stumbling, which he climaxed by a
sudden fall on his head.

My steed was much more remarkable, being a true
specimen of the " woolly " horse, his soft dun hair covering
him in close curls like the fleece of a Leicester sheep. He
had been brought from the Columbia Eiver country, where a
breed of that kind is said to exist.

June 1st. — We had heavy rain and thunder at night, but
kept all dry in our tents, with one triHing exception. It
cleared up for a few minutes between 4 and 5 A.M., so we set
out on our march ; rain, however, came on again, and lasted
nearly four hours.

CHAP. II.

CROW- WING TO FORT GARRY.

We breakfasted at the house of a settler named D-

who lived with his family in great apparent comfort in that
small log cottage, and farmed on a moderate scale, owning
sixty head of cattle, and cultivating a few acres of land.

After taking leave of Mr. D we crossed the Eed

Kiver in a ferry-boat, and riding forward at a good pace, in
two hours or so we found ourselves opposite Fort Garry.

Placing ourselves in the ferry-boat for the second time

that day, we speedily arrived at the other side ; then,

vaving remounted o'l^ steeds — mine was Morgan once more

-we dashed at full t, .nop up to the Fort, amidst the firing

of cannon and the cheers of a welcoming crowd.

Si;

111
If

CHAPTER III.

FORT GARRY.

Fort GAERY, as we approached it, seemed to nie a very
considerable place. It was then, as I believe it is now, a
great parallelogram of lofty stone walls with circular bastion
towers, within which compass stood rows of storehouses in
line with the sides, while, rectangularly to these, ranges of
more important buildings occupied the central space, facing
this way and that towards the opposite ends of the oblong.

On entering the enclosure we rode up to the principal
house, where we were received by Dr. Bunn, the medical
resident at the Fort ; we had been previously met near the
ferry by ]Mr. Fortescue, the second in charge, as representa-
tive of his chief, Mr. Mactavish, who was then temporarily
absent ; and very comfortable rooms were prepared for us
in the large and spacious mansion wl. V,h for a while was to
form our home.

As two o'clock struck we sat down to an excellent dinner,
at which, besides the gentlemen already mentioned, our party
comprised three of the Company's clerks — Mr. Bridgeman, Mr.
Watson, and Mr. Kennedy ; also anotlier traveller from the
old country, Mr. Boyd, an English gentleman, who was rest-
ing here for a few days on his return journey, after a length-
ened visit to the great camp of the half-breeds during the
continuance of their winter buffalo-hunt.

CHAP. III.

FORT GARRY.

It was a large party, — a pleasant one I am sure wo all
found it, and wished for no change in its number ; unfor-
tunately, however, it soon had to suffer a serious diminu-
tion, for, a few days after our anival. Sir George's official
duties called him away to Norway House, at the northern
extremity of Lake Winnipeg, there to preside at the general
meeting of the Company's chief officers,— an assemblage annu-
ally held to arrange the business for each ensuing year.
Before his departure he occupied much of his time in for-
warding my intended expedition, heartily interesting himself
in all its details, and giving me invaluable assistance and
advice ; among other benefits, he was good enough to leave
with me his own canoe-man, Toma, one of the trustiest and
best of fellows.

I felt melancholy when the hour of leave-taking arrived ;
when farewells had to be exchanged with my much-valued
friends Sir George and Mr. Hopkins. Our acquaintance
had been but brief, as dates might limit it, but ami'ist
such journeyings as we had shared in, a week does more for
intimacy than months might do elsewhere. To me their
companionship had been all that was kindly and agreeable,
and mine, I trust, had to some extent been the same to them.*

It took me a full fortnight to complete my preparations,
notwithstanding the great help I received from Dr. Eae and
Mr. Mactavish — I might indeed say, from every member of
the Company's establishment, for all vied with one another in

* Little did I think that I lookcjd on one of these friends for the last time,
as we stood at the gate and cordially pressed hands together. But so it was
to be. Not much more than a year had elapsed, when a very kind letter from
Mr. Hopkins brought me the sorrowful news of Sir George Simpson's death.
He died in September 1860, after an illness of but five days' duration. Thus
was taken from us a true, warm-hearted friend, an able, energetic man ; thus
was ended a most useful, active, and distinguished career.

■\

■ I r:
■i " I

\ ! I

I I

S V

FORT GARRY.

CHAP, III,

kind otticeg. There were men to engage, horses aiul carts to
buy, stores of every kind to lay in, — a thousand things, in
short, to do, which waste time more tlian any one could fancy
who has not gone through the same experience.

I was impatient to sot off, for summer in this land is a
very fleeting season ; hut, putting that aside, the days slipped
pleasantly by. The Protestant Bishop of Kupert's Land
(tlien Bishop Anderson), and Bishop Tache of the Eoman
Catholic see of St. Boniface, were both good enough to call
on me, and part of my time was passed in returning their
visits and those of some of the other principal residents.

The Eed liiver Settlement at Jiat time consisted of a
series of small farms and holdings, more or less thickly placed
along the two banks of the river from which it derives its
name. At Fort Garry, where there were houses enough to
form a sort of scattered town, the population was sharply
divided by the river into_ two distinct sections, the Scotch
and English settlers and their half-breeds occupying the
western bank, while the French Canadians, whether pure or
half-breed, occupied the right or eastern l)ank.

On Monday the 6th, a very agreeable hour was passed by
Dr. Eae and myself in visiting the Roman Catholic nunnery,
following an introduction to the Lady Superior afforded us by
Bishop Tache's kindness. It was chiefly an educational estab-
lishment, managed by the nuns, who, I believe, were Sisters
of Charity. They wore an extremely quaint and pretty dress.
The close-fitting gown was of fawn-coloured cotton, with
sleeves square and open at the wrist. Over the gown was a
dark blue cotton petticoat, with small white spots, which,
reaching only to within six inches from the grounil, sliowed
a narrow strip of fawn colour beneath. A he..vy kerchief of
black material covered the shoulders, and was crossed over

CIIAI'. III.

FORT QARllY.

tlio bosom ; n olack poko-honiiet, above n plain white ca]),
completed the costume. A gilt crucifix hung from a girdle
round the waist. Moccasins were worn instead of shoes,
according to the universal custom of the country, to wliich
oven the bishops conformed. These excellent nuns educated
about forty children, mostly from among the French popula-
tion. We had the pleasure of seeing a few of the pupils,

whom Sister C veiy obligingly sent for, asking them to

give us some specimens of their progress in music. Two
nice-looking dark girls of fourteei\ first came in, and played
several pieces on a piano-forte, — which, I confess, it surprised
me to see in this remote and inaccessible land ; then two
pretty little fuir-haired children took their place, and, like
the others, played in a pleasing and very creditable manner.
The institution was universally spoken of as most useful
and popular, and as being in all respects remarkably well
conducted.

Fort Garry wab amply provided with churches, for besides
the two greater edifices known as the cathedrals, there was a
large place of worship for the Presbyterians, who formed a
numerous and important body, I used in general to attend
service at the Protestant Cathedral, where the Bishop himself
officiated. Its interior was of extreme plainness ; but one
thinks little of that where all is simple and without pretence.
Though the Presbyterian psalms and hynms were not in us(%
it was easy to see that the Scottish race prevailed in the con-
gregation, — the tunes and the manner of singing so forcibly
recalling the sober, deliberate fashion of my own country,
that I could scarcely believe myself thousands of miles a^\■ay
in the innermost heart of America.

On the Assiniboine, a mile or two off, there is another
Episcopidiau settlement, named St. James's. I walked there

sa@i

i i

FOllT (lAUIlY.

CIIAt'. III.

one nfteniMoii with Dr. IJat^ and ciilUsd on tlio Kuv. Mr.
Taylor, the incumbent, wlio showed \\s the church, — a
pretty thougli Hiinph? buihlinjj, the interior onianuMitcd with
texts and other designs, all i)ainted by himself, — then lios-
pitably invited us to tea. In the parsonage drawing-room our
attention was called to a picture of the (^ueen (a formerly
well-known portrait from the lUmtmtrd London Nvwa),
which had been framed and conspicuously hung on the wall.
It appeared that Indians often came expressly to see it, having
strong feelings of loyalty to the sovereign ; one old chief
especially, a recent visitor there, had insisted on being
allowed to kiss her Majesty's portrait in token of his loving
homage.

Thursday, the \Mh of June, was a notable day at Fort
Gar'y. The first steamer that had yet navigated the Ited
liiver made her appearance that morning, bringing two or
three passengers from Minnesota. " Ans Northup" was the
name of this small, shabby, stern-wheel boat, mean and insig-
nificant in itself, but important as the harbinger of new
developments of what Americans are pleased to call civilisa-
tion.

Crowds of Indians stood silently on the shore, watching
the arrival of this strange portentous object. Little thought
they how ominous a sight it was for them, fraught with pre-
sages of ruin for all their wandering race ! I know not
whether these natives were Crees or Ojibways. They were
an ugly, hard-featured set. One woman only had some good
looks, and these chiefiy consisted in the marvellous whiteness
and regularity of her teeth. Like many of the others she
carried a child on her back carefully wrapped up in the folds of
her thick blanket, and looking warm and comfortable in its
nest. A few Cree families had made their small encampment

< llAf, III.

FOUT OAllUY.

on tho pniii in outsido, near tlio Fort ; they were dirty, gipsy-
liko people, neither Imndsonio, interesting, nor picturesipio.
I observed one of tho little hoys driving his lather's horses
homo by shooting blunt arrows at them with all tin force of
a by no means despicable bow. From his very childhood the
Indian learns inhumanity to animals.

By tho 14th all my preparations were complete. I was
fortunate in securing tho services of a thoroughly competent
guide — that is to say, head man — in John M'Kay, a younger
brother of our energetic leader from Crow-wing. Under
him were four men belonging to his own district — Morrison
M'Beath and Donald Matheson, of unmixed Sutherlandshire
descent ; George KliiiO * of the French-Canadian race ; and
James Short, whom I have already spoken of — all of them
picked men, perfectly up to their work, excellent fellows
in every possible respect. Besides th s Eed lliver party,
there was Duncan Robertson, who c. i.i*' with me from Scot-
land ; also Sir George's can '-man, Thoma? /Vriwakenha,
the Iroquois, commonly kuovn n Toma, whoso duties con-
sisted in driving the waggon, cooking my meals, and, al. ng
with Duncan, acting as my special attendant.

Under charge of this efticient brigade there was gathered
together a very considerable i. mount of property of every sort
and kind — horses and vehicles, weapons, provisions, and
stores : — three new two-wheel carts, and the four-wheel wag-
gon already menti )ned, all filled to the brim with various
sorts of baggage : my own canvas tent (the same one I had
used before), a b,v .*' oell-tent for the men, oil- cloth squaies,
blankets, clothes and other personal goods ; bales of tea and

• The luinie is soiiiL'tinu's spelt Klyiie or Cliiic, the .si)elliiiy being varied
even in tl'J f ouipuiiy's account books. In pronuuciiition the i is sounded as
It, not ns c.

I II'

! h

■M ■!

I'*

FORT GARRY.

CHAP. III.

,■ t

sugar, sacks of flour and rice ; biscuits, jam, and eggs, and
dried tongues in plenty to keep us in food till we got fresh
meat in the buffalo country ; many pounds of the Company's
excellent flat " plug " tobacco for myself and my men ; an
immense 90 lb. roll of the rather coarser twist, for the
especial benefit of the Indians.

Then we had a great quantity of goods of another descrip-
tion, — such as a large copper box of rifle powder, kegs of com-
mon powder, bullets, shot, and caps ; a variety of weapons ;
axes, hammers, saws, a canteen, a portable table, and a camp-
stool, cooking utensils, etc. ; in short, we were provided with
more than every requisite for the plains, besides extra supplies
to furnish the customary presents to any Indian parties we
might chance to meet.

There was one deficiency, according to some people's
notions : I took no wine or spirits with me, nor allowed any
to be taken, except a few bottles of rum. But little use was
made even of this, and I afterwards left the greater part of
it at Fort Carlton. What troubles and difficulties this saved
me from I can only guess — from a great many, no doubt.
We ought, however, to have had a small store of brandy for
medicinal purposes. Indeed, I rather felt the want of stimu-
lants when exhausted by hard work in the mountains.

To draw the waggon there were four horses — my former
purchases, Paul and Anthony, and two white horses of much the
same size as these, the one called Lane and the other Wawb^,
which, in Cree, means " white." For the carts there were
seven smaller beasts, tlie biggest of them scarcely more than
a pony. Their names were as follows : — Deserter, Nez-Blanc,
Gris, Mouldy, Spot, Bleu, and Little Black — uninteresting
animals all, tliat cost on an average about £13 apiece. As
this list may indicate, the half-breeds generally name their

y M

I(<

CHAP. III.

FORT GARRY.

P-

horses according to colour or marking or other peculiarity, but
sometimes after a former owner {e.g. Lane) ; sometimes, also,
though more rarely, after a circumstance or a place, or occa-
sionally in an altogether unmeaning way.

Then there were two buffalo-runners — a silver-tailed
white pony, afterwards known as W^pooss (the Babbit), a
name suggested by his remarkable countenance ; and " Great
Black," a large, well-bred horse, — ^which, with the last-men-
tioned, I bought from James M'Kay, — ^reputed the fastest
runner in the settlement, but too unmanageable to be gene-
rally useful. Last, but best, came my favourite riding-ponies,
Morgan and his companion Vermont,

My guns and saddle had not arrived at St. Paul before
our departure from that place ; so, by Sir George's directions,
John M'Kay and another man had waited there to receive
them and immediately bring them on. The things soon came
to hand, upon which ^M'Kay made rapid work, and reached
Fort Garry just four days later than we did. It was with
anxiety that I opened the gun-cases, but, excepting a few
trifling rust spots, my precious weapons had taken no harm,
after aU the risks of damage tliey had run since I parted from
them at the New York Custom-House.

As I afterwards discovered, half the number would have
served my purpose, for, having little means to judge what
was really needful, I had been erring far too zealously on
what seemed the safer side.

Of all the armament, I held in infinite preference a pair
of two-grooved double-barrelled rifles, by Purdey. A better
pair no maker could possibly turn out. They have been
immensely used, and in pretty trying service sometimes, but
to this day they remain as good as when I first handled
them some eighteen or nineteen yea/s ago. They carry a

\\ m

!:i

FORT GARRY.

CHAP. III.

« i

medium-sized, but very deadly, conical ball. My other rifle
was one of large bore, by Dickson in Edinburgh ; a good one,
I believe, but, on account of its weight, I hardly ever used it,
not finding bullets of great size to be required. I had also a
pair of excellent Purdey shot-guns, of No. 12 gauge, which,
at close quarters, could throw round bullets most effectively.
Besides these, I took a five-chambered revolving rifle, and a
pistol of the same description, of the Colt manufacture. The
latter I never used ; the former shot Avell, but I disliked it
for reasons afterwards mentioned. These were the only
breech-loaders I possessed, that sort of weapon being little
employed for sporting purposes until a year or two afterwards.

My men had various guns and rifles of their own ; none
were worth much, except a highly-serviceable double-barrelled
gun belonging to M'Kay, of the best poss^'ble pattern for
general use in that country. It was as thick in the metal as
a rifle, and carried a bullet accurately to more than a hundred
yards, and as its bore was of the size (28) universal in the
Company's trade, supplies of ball could be got anywhere and
almost from any person. Small as these bullets are — for,
being round, they had none of the expansion of a conical
ball, especially a flanged one such as that shot by my rifles,
which were really but little different in the gauge — they are
large enough, if well directed, to kill any beast in America ;
stores of them, moreover, can be carried in little bulk — an
inestimable advantage for the ordinary hunter.

This handy and neatly-finished gun, wliich was made in
London at a trifling cost [£12 if I riglitl)' remember], could
also throw shot with a power that I have never seen equalled.
Good as my Purdey smooth-bores were, M'Kay iised to kill
ducks at distances fairly beyond my range.

During the marcli I generally carried a rifle resting on a

CIIAP. Id.

FORT GARRY.

rolled-up waterproof strapped to my saddle-bow, soon learning
to poise it so that it almost steadied itself ; and M'Kay in-
variably carried his gun, balancing it in a similar manner
between his own body and the high front-peak of his narrow
Spanish saddle. My men also kept their weapons within
reach, several guns and rifles always lying loaded in the
carts, ready in case of an emergency ; and all of the party
were furnished with more or less formidable knives, some
even with good-sized military swords that had once formed
part of the equipment of a Eifle Corps. We were, in short, a
strongly-armed and sufftciently numerous company, able to
bid defiance to any such small Indian band as that of the
Pillagers of Lake Otter-tail.

' I'll'

ill

'•tjl

lip

.11 J ,

ril

Hl'.l) klVr<R MNK-IIAC;.

■at

«eig

CHAPTER IV.

FOET GARRY TO FORT ELLICE.

June 15th. — After a fortnight's preparation and delays,
my arrangements were at length completed, and by 5 o'clock
that afternoon the expedition was fairly under weigh and pro-
ceeding steadily forward on its western course.

Our fixst march was not a long one ; we had not meant it
to he so ; we had been only desirous to emerge from the neigh-
bourhood of the Fort, so as to gather all into due place and
order, and to shake off that spirit of lingering whose influ-
ences impede the traveller when within the sphere of settle-
ments.

We were now encamped at Sturgeon Creek, some few
miles on our journey. The weather was fine, everything
worked smoothly, all promised well for the morrow.

June IGth. — "VVe halted a few hours at White Horse
Plains, where I dined at the Fort with INIr. Lane, the gentle-
man in charge of that station. The whole place was swarm-
ing with half-breed hunters and their families, who, with in-
numeraljle carts and horses, were gatlieving there preparatory
to their start for the prairies on their gi-eat annual summer
bulTalo hunt.

I was glad to escape from this scene of noise and con-
fusion, when we were at length enabled to resume our march ;
but by that time it had grown late, so we only went some

^•^^

CHAP. IV.

FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLIOE.

seven or eight miles farther, and halted in a prairie, making
our camp beside a grove of young willows.

June 17th. — At dawn of day I was awakened by a most
delicious concert of birds singing in the bushes round my
tent. The air was pure and fresh, the low rays of the sun
gleamed on the dewy herbage, all nature was full of cheer-
fulness, and the pretty songsters tuned their voices to an
encouraging strain.

As they fluttered around me, they seemed to beckon me
forward, and their notes took the form of words, crying with
endless reiteration — This-is-thc-path ; Oh-this-is-the-way !
Sometimes one with a very deep voice would sing all alone
— This-is-the-path ; then a hundred voices would answer
him rapturously in the shrillest treble, with — Oh-thfs-is-the-
way ; and then all would unite together and chorus forth their
little ditty again and again.

We were off by 5 o'clock this morning, but our progress
was not very great, interruptions and delays occurring at
every turn, chiefly on horse-dealing business, which is always
a tedious affair. I added two capital animals to my lot —
" Blond," otherwise " M'Gillis," a handsome chestnut with
long wavy mane and tail, — sleek and immensely fat,, which is
here counted the greatest of merits, as bespeaking plenteous
winter keep and corresponding stores of substance for future
wear and tear ; and " La Framboise," a Saskatchewan-bred
brown, too lean, but strong and hardy-looking ; both of
them were very serviceable cart-liorses, fit enough even for
the waggon.

I thought " Blond" by no means a dear bargain at £18 ;
for "La Framboise" I gave to the hunter from whom his
name was derived £15, likewise also little Black, who was
much too weak for harness and too small for the saddle.

1
I

i i

FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE.

CHAP. IV.

Sunday, June 19th. — After a talk with ^M'Kay, I settled
to have a complete halt ou Sundays. [I made this rule from
no strict Sabbatarian reasons, but from a belief that the
special weekly holiday would be good for man and beast ; a.
reminder of home ties for the former, and a useful rest for
both. The Scottish settlers seldom shoot on Sundays, but
their travelling goes on without difference, so my rule was
rather a novelty. These breaks in the journey answered well
enough in summer, but had to be given up when cold weather
set in. Delay then becomes too dangerous. Thirty below
zero is a great stimulator, especially when food runs short,
and supplies are few and far between.

The camp was very uuwholesomely placed within a dozen
yards of a large mosquito-haunted marsh, whence the boom
of the bittern resounded at intervals, like the distant roaring
of a bull. My hardy men never thought of such things as
damp and miasma, nor, to tell the truth, did T, yet probably
many a troublesome symptom arose from camping in such
swampy places, though our healthy active habits saved us
from serious illness.

At this camp I passed two wretched nights, unwell with-
out suspecting the cause, but moving on Monday to higher
ground the change at once cured me. Perhaps some hours
in the swamp, wading knee-deep after ducks and bitterns,
had done me more mischief than I knew of]

While here I received a visit from Mr. Simpson and his
half-brother, who were on their way to Fort Garry. Tliey
stayed an liour or two, and had dinner in my tent. The
former had come straight from Fort Pitt, on tlie Saskatchewan,
where, till lately, he had been the officer in charge. He
brought the unwelcome news that tlie Crees and Blackfeet
were at the point of going to war. Tliis, it was evident, would

CHAI'. IV.

FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE.

interfere with my intended journey to the Elbow of the South
Saskatchewan ; it appeared, however, that very little game
was left in those parts, the four years' peace between the
tribes having enabled them to hunt n that generally debate-
able ground. It seemed likely that I should have to take
the usual route after all, through a country disturbed by
constant traffic, with no chance of sport for at least three
weeks. But nothing could be really known till we got to
Fort Ellice, so I continued to hope for the best.

Among Mr. Simpson's horses was one said to be an
excellent buffalo-runner, and finding he wished to sell it, I
availed myself of the chance, and bought it from liim. This
animal originally came from the Columbia Eiver, and for
some time belonged to Nahtooss, a Blackfoot chief. " Bichon "
was the pony's name, on account of his yellowish hue, — but
the paleness of his creamy fawn-coloured skin was hand-
somely relieved by the blackness of his mane and tail. He
was upwards of fourteen hands high, rather bare-hipped,
angular, and coarse-headed, strong however, and on the
whole not bad looking.

Jiine 20th. — Anxious to get forward, we made an extra
long march, starting at 4.30 A.M., and going on till 8.30 p.m.,
with a couple of halts of two hours each. This took us so
far that we camped near the point where the hunters' south-
ward road diverged from the westerly track to Fort Ellice,
— our own future line. Much did I long for the departure
of our noisy companions, whose presence scared all the game
away, and robbed the beautiful deserts of their peaceful,
soothing loneliness. Nature has done much for the country
we had been traversing that day, and the bright summer
sunshine did something for it too. It was pleasant to ex-
cliange the miserable swamps for low hills of a light and

■J :•!! SI

I
pi
ill

litt

FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE.

CHAP. IV.

A L()I)-STICK,

sandy soil, covered with poplar groves dotted with scattered
spruces ; or for open plains, some flat, some undulating, but
all sound and hard and dry, and redolent of warmth.

I was weary of the half-breeds, and their wasteful, destruc-
tive ways. Everywhere their ravages met the
eye. Trees ruthlessly cut down or disfigured ;

t young poplars barked for their sap ; noble
spruces shorn of their branches, — a wretched
top-knot left to keep the tree alive, that it
might bear some jovial voyageur's name, whose
" lob-stick" it had been created, after a whisky-
drinking over the ruin.

Fervently as I wished them away, it cheered one's spirits
to see the hunters on their march. There was infinite pic-
turesqueness about them. , Their long moving columns
sparkled with life and gaiety. Cart-tilts of every hue flashed
brightly in the sun, hosts of wild wolfish dogs ran in and out
among the vehicles, troops of loose horses pranced and
galloped alongside. The smartly-dressed men were riding
their showiest steeds, their wives and daughters were
travelling in the carts, enthroned on high heps of baggage.
Many of the women were clearly of unmingled Indian blood.
Tall and angular, long masses of straight black hair fell over
their backs ; blue and white cotton gowns, shapeless, stayless,
uncrinolined, displayed the flatness of their unprojecting
figures. Some wore a gaudy handkerchief on the head, the
married bound one also across the bosom.

In M. B 's first cart there sat a singularly handsome

girl, a dark-complexioned maiden of the mixed French
descent. As with so many of her race, her countenance bore
a half-shy, lialf-disdaiufid expression : she looked like one
who would be amiable to few, ill-tempered to most, but true
to the death to her husbaii<I or her lover.

OIIAV. IV,

FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE.

The hunters wore all in their suninier clothing, wearing
the usual brass- buttoned blue capot, with moleskin trowsers
and calico shirts. Wide-awakes, or cloth caps with peaks,
were the favourite head-coverings. Gaily-embroidered saddle-
cloths and belts were evidently preferred to t' ^se of a less
showy appearance ; red, white, and blue beadin, ,, on a black
cloth gi'ound, seemed to form the most general arrangement.

Mr. E , who accompanied us part of the way and

slept that night at my camp, rode beside us on a well-bred old
white horse adorned with showy red-and-black trappings.
He himself wore the dark-blue capot, a black cap, and
black moleskin trowsers and moccasins, and to English
notions looked a most unsportsmanlike figure, but like all the
rest he rode gi'acefully and well.

They sit very upright, with the leg nearly straight up and
down.. Their saddles are exceedingly
small, either mere Iii(^"in pads, or
narrow Spanish frames, high before
and behind, with a long peak to the
front. Over such a frame they strap
a blanket, and sometimes also place
another beneath, but nothing can keep these ill-contrived
saddles from galling the horses' backs.

June 21st — M'Kay had spoken much about the dangerous
position of our camp, as lying in the direct war-path of the
Sioux, so when in the morning it was reported that Black,
Morgan, and Vermont were amissing, I feared that they were
lost for ever. Happily they had only strayed, and not more
than an hour was wasted in tracking and recovering the
wanderers.

This was another lovely day, but, for all that, we rejoiced
when a thunderstorm came on, for it drove away those pests

~^^

HALF-BKKED's SPANISH
SADDLE.

i! II

"lis

■i

■',''1,

!'; I

FORT OAUllY TO FOUT ELLICK.

(11 AT. IV.

— the venomous, eye-blinding, havJ-skinned, little aand-fiies.
Yesterday another enemy had troubled us — certain huge-
lieadcd gadflies, of hornet appearance, that are commonly
known as " bulldogs." Darting on man or horse, the wretch
gives one short bite with his scissory clippers, — then off like
a flash, leaving a poisoned and bleeding wound.

' The insect tribe is a perfect curse ; one has no rest or
peace. Mosquitoes on the wet ground and sandflies in the
dry, bull-dogs in the sunshine, bugs in the oakwoods, ants
everywhere — it is maddening. . . . The fever caused by
these bites is what most distresses me. It is worst at night,
when one gets warm in bed ; all the veins swell and glow,
and seem full of li(piid fire.' ....

After dinner we were detained till three o'clock by another
thunderstorm, and then made a four hours' march through a
prairie country with numerous small lakes abounding in
ducks. I shot a few, but my sport was much interfered
with by a dog we had brought with us — a retriever that would
not retrieve.

This detestable animal, Hector by name, a large, red,
curly-coated water-spaniel, I had bought rather hastily from
a man at Eed River, who gave him a high character ; but
the dog was an impostor and a nuisance. He would go into
the water after a dead or wounded duck, r^ecure it zealously,
and bring it with him in the most promising style, but on
coming near shore he always dropped it just out of your
reach, and no persuasion could make him fetch it an inch
farther.

Sometimes he amused himself by running forward and
putting everything up. It was hard to say if he were more
knave or fool — and the beast was a coward too. Good nature
was his only merit, and it did not long avert his doom.

CIIAl'. IV.

FOUT QAUllY TO FOllT ELLICE.

M'Kay became rather uiivvell in course of the evening ;
happily it waa notliing very serious, and some simple remedies
taken under my advice — for in the absence of better practi-
tioners I had to act as doctor for the party — proved perfectly
successful in making a cure.

I was now beginning to know more about my men, and
greatly they all jdeased me, as well they might. — * My men go
on very well ; I like them all. John M'Kay I like, ....
he is my head man (guide, as we understand the term, I can
scarcely call hin for he knows but little of the road, and did
not profess to) — a steady good man, clever with horses, carts,
or anything ; he manages the other men admirably, and suits
me exceedingly well.

' Matheson is a jolly, handsome young Scotsman, singing
snatches of gay songs all the day. M'Beath, a Scotsman
too, grave, tall, and gentlemanlike, Kline, of the mixed
French descent, active, clever, and very obliging. Short, a
Scotch half-breed, more Indian in his ways than Scotch, an
extraordinarily active lad, a perfect shot with either gun,
arrow, stick, or stone.

' Toma, the Iroquois, is generally grave in look, but gets
on well with the rest, — they are always joking together. I
find him very attentive and useful. He sings pleasantly
monotonous canoe-songs as he drives my waggon, sitting
under the shade of a canvas tilt.'

[These extracts are partly from my journal, partly from a
letter written about that date. I dwell more fully on the
same subject afterwards.]

June 22d. — We arrived this afternoon at the Eapid Eiver,
sometimes called the Little Saskatchewan,* and scowed across
without much labour or difficulty. This stream, where we

* The wonl SiiskatcliCwiin signifies — The liver that runs swi/t.

Hl4

" M

■''1

•riaMttMHiP;!

FORT QARRY TO FOIIT V.hUVAl

niAP. IV.

crossed it, was about thirty y u Is wulo, and of no jjfrpat deptli
or body of water. The wcsvlvu banks in the vicinity arc
high, and prettily clothed with trees, which conic down the
grassy slopes in groups and patches projected boldly from
the larger woods that crown the sunnnit.

IVrivay went forward a mile or two and camped on the
top of the bank, at the very edge of the descent. Meanwhile
I took a turn with Matheson to look for deer in the woods,
but * wo got nothing, and the mosquitoes got us ; tlu^y were
perfectly dreadful.' Even the camp-fires did not keep them
away that night ; they ' came right into the smoke of the
fires, and bit like tigers.'

During most of the day's march I rode Vermont, who was
by no means as great a favourite as Morgan, though not
without his good qualities. — ' Vermont has gone much better
since I took to wearing spurs. He is a nice little beast, with
funny sly ways of his own. llis ears are remarkably small,
and he constantly keeps them i)ricked forward, which adds
to his cunning and sagacious appearance.'

June 23d. — A fine day, but spoiled by two or three
thunderstorms, one especially heavy while it lasted. After
breakfast I walked on before the carts and shot ducks till
dinner time. I only bagged four, though double that number
fell, and even for these I was obliged to wade in hip-deep
every time, for the useless retriever as usual refused to bring
them out. The country was of the prairie sort, and rather
flat than undulating, but every small hollow had its swamp
or lake, in which innumerable ducks made their abode.

About camping time we came to a pretty piece of water,
known as Salt Lake, but as its quality answered to its name
we did not halt there, but passed on a mile or so farther.

Three notable mischances befell us to-day. M'Kay lost

CIIAI'. IV.

FOItT (JAWHY TO FOHT KIJ-K'K.

his wliii>, I lost II ])aiticiiliirly j,'0()(l knilb, and, wor.st of all, .
my watch stopiMid, and tliou<,'h I sot it agoing it novor could
bo trusted al't(!iward.s.

June 24th. — Having Htavtod about 5 A.M., we avrivo«l at
breakfast time at Shoal Like, another very pretty shet't of
wat(n', which cannot be nnich less than ten nnlea in length.
There was an agreeable variety of aninud lif(3 on its well-
wooded shores. First wo observed a wolf prowling round
the camp, wheroui»on we took our guns and gave chase, but
ho escaped into the brushwood. Then, a moment or two
after, as I was returning from the iruitless ])ursuit, 1 saw
a moderate-sized, black and white, bushy-tailed animal moving
slowly among the thick bushes, and shot it, chiefly from motives
of curiosity. It was a skunk,* a much handscjmer creature than
might be supposed, and not offensive if killed dead on the
spot, as happened in this instance — very fortunately ! for ho
was close to the place where our breakfasts were preparing.

Soon afterwards I tried my riHe at a loon swinnning far
out on the lake, but ho esca})ed by rapid diving, an accom-
plishment which renders this bird pnjverbially hard to hit :
a modern express would probably be too quick even for him,
Itut my rifles, though fast of their kind, carry no heavier
charge of powder than the 2^ drachms generally given to
two-grooves of that date and pattern.

Before starting, I made a grand turn-out of my armament,
the baggage being in such confusion that nothing was ever
available when wanted in a hurry. I now had the gun-
cases neatly arranged in the waggon, putting the more im-
})ortant uppermost, and disposing their contents so that
anything could be got at in a moment when required. This

!i,:V

I'll

* Mfpliitts Aiuuiicaiin, nu: Hudsoiiica, The Jludson's Bdij Skmik. So:-
cuvl—Vrcc. Indians. — ItlcilAiiDSoN, Faun. Bor.-Am. vol. i. p. .')5.

•imm^mimmik^^

FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLIOE.

CHAP. IV.

business finished after great expenditure of trouble, I tra-
velled for variety's sake in the now orderly waggon till
dinner time, but it was very jolty work, so I had Bichon
saddled, and rode for the rest of the day. — ' He went well,
and is evidently used to gallop on rough ground, but he
was tiresomely anxious to stay with the other horses, and
when forced to go on, neighed incessantly, driving away, of
course, any game that might chance to be near.' I got
M'Kay to try him, thinking he would perhaps go more
quietly under his hand, but it made no difference, it was a
habit that had yet to be cured.

June 25th. — A lort march before breakfast brought us
into the vale of the Assiuiboine, up which we pursued our
way in the midst of a heavy thunderstorm, till, having come
nearly opposite Fort Ellice, we halted and camped. The
river at this part of iis course flows on with many windings
through levels overgrown with brush and timber. The valley,
above a mile in width, is bounded by high wooded banks on
either side. It was a pretty landscape, although much was
hidden by the rain ; this partial concealment, however,
tended to magnify the distances, and add to the scene more
importance than really belonged to it.

In the afternoon IM'Kay and I rode on together to Fort
Ellice, which is beautifully situated at the edge of the glen
of Beaver Creek, a deep, wooded ravine that cuts its way at
right angles through the hills of the Assiniboine vale. At
the river-side we found a clumsy old scow, in which we took
our horses across ; then we ascended a high bank by a very
steep and diflicult road, which led us to our destination,
where we were hospitably received by the superintendent, Mr.
M'Kay, accompanied by his father, a retired Company's officer,
M'ho was at that time assisting in the management of the Post.

CHAP. IV.

FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE.

After tea we rode back again, returning to camp before
daylight had quite departed.

Sunday, June 2G/7t. — Having so little distance to go, we
resolved to cross, and camp in the neiglibourhood of the Fort.
My men were all busy with the crossing, so I rode on by
myself, and, arriving in time to join Mr. M'Kay at dinner,
had the pleasure of sharing in some fresh buffalo-tongues
which he had lately brought back with him from the plains,
where some of his people were still engaged in a hunt. These
tongues were excellent, as juicy and tender as possible,
and came doubly welcome after the perpetual salt meat of
the last ten days.

Early in the afternoon the carts made their appearance,
having got safely through considerable difficulties both at the
river and the hill ; and a place well separated from the Fort,
though not far off, was iixed upon as the site of our encamp-
ment. I cliose for my own tent-site a sandy level platform
at the edge of a precipitous bank, 300 feet high, that over-
hangs the Beaver Creek where it is about a quarter of a mile
across. It was a pretty place : as I sat on the camp-stool
near my door, I could see to the ve^y bottom of the deep
ravjjie, and follow the windings of its course far upwards and
downwards, till it lost itself in the distance on either side.

Two Indians, an Ojibway and a man of some different
tribe, paid me a visit, and were treated to a dinner and a
smoke. They were evidently interested in my map of British
America, and seemed quite able to understand it, making
shrewd remarks about several topographical matters.

June 27th. — After long consultation with the three IM'Kays,
I determined to attempt to pass to the Indian Elbow, going by
a track tliat pretty closely follows the course of the river Qu'ap-
pelle. The chief difficulty was to find a guide, for John

■>.

I ^i

\ '

FORT GAKUY TO FORT ELLT(!E.

CIIAI'. IV,

lV:W

;:i

M'Kay know notliing whatever of that part of the coiintvy.
;^^any of the Fort Ellicc men were at the plains hunting
buffalo, in a different direction, and others were afraid to
risk their scalps among the anticipated Blackfoot war pai'-
ties ; but at lengtli a suitable X)erson was discovered, a French
half-breed named Pierre Nunnne,* said to be an excellent
man for my purpose, who fortunately happened to be stay-
ing near the Fort. Pierre, however, put an extravagant
value on his services, and I was obliged to promise him the
immense pay of £25 for one month, and so on in proportion
for any further period, — the term of service to be only six
weeks, failing a new and separate agreement.

Two ox-carts came in that morning from the plains, bringing
a number of fresh buf(\ilo-robes, — " robes," it must be under-
stood, signifying skins with the hair on, as distinguished from
those dressed without the hair and made into leather, which
are simply known as " skins." They also brought four calves,
funny little yellow things, very hot and tired after jolting
such a distance in the carts, unsheltered from the powerful
scorching sun. When taken young enough, these animals
can be perfectly tamed ; in proof of which there was an in-
stance close by, for at that very moment a two-year-old
buffalo heifer was grazing about quite quietly in tlie neigh-
bouring prairie, among the connnon dairy cows belonging to
the establishment.

* III the Company's stiiteiiiciit of Jiccouiits t!iis iinlividnarsiiainc is enterotl
as Pierre Deiiouiiiinei', Imt in lliceiigageineiit diawii up at Fort Ellico, to which
liis mark is apiuiided, the word appears as Niuiime, whicii I liave retained, as
it was tlie name lie always went by while in my employ.

CHAPTER V

FORT ELLICE TO (iU'APPELLE FORT.

lllE ufternooii was fur advanced when we left Fort Ellicc.
Owing to the amount of our stores and baggage it had
become clear that further means of conveyance were required,
especially if hunting trophies dropped in by and by to make
up extra weight ; so we borrowed a couple of carts from
the Fort, and hired the same number of Company's horses.
We also supplied ourselves with t\v'o needful things that had
been omitted — a spade and a scythe.

At the same time Mr. ]NrKay did us a good turn by
lending us a handsome black pointer named " Pointer," —
brother to that same Blucher who so gallantly chased
tlie bear near the river of Eed Lake. He proved a most
useful animal, being a good retriever and water-dog, besides
possessing the accomplishments denoted by his name.

We camped obout twelve miles irom Fort Ellice, among
swampy vicldy-^': .3sed prairies, dotted with many detaclied
" islands " of pc[-]ar which rose dark and high in the midst
of the expansive sea of plain.

Jane '.lo'h. — ' Pierre Numme is a quaint-looking oldish
man, with a dark, bony. French-Indian face, and long black
hair, lie wears leather trowsers, which liave become like
varnished 'uahogany from stains and hard usage, a blue cotton
shirt, and a dark-blue woollen, nuishroom-toj)ped, lowland

mim

FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. ,niAP. v.

Scotch bonnet, such as I remember common in Forfarsliire
in my boyhood, but it has red and white chequers round the
headpiece, and Pierre has added a glazed leather peak. His
eyes are weak, so he wears huge goggles made of wire and
glass, which have a strange effect, throwing a dash of the
pedantic into his rough and hunter-like ai)pearance. He
seems a good-natured fellow, and is said to bear a high
character.'

There were thunder showers during the night and morn-
ing, and towards afternoon steady rain began, so we made an
early halt. M'Kay took advantage of an adjacent oak-grove
to lay in a supply of spare axletrecs. It interested me to see
how cleverly the nien brouglit the rough logs into shape with
no finer tool than the edge of the axe.

For my own part, I read Shakspeare's " Two Gentlemen
of Verona," and passed a tolerable afternoon in spite of the
rain. — ' Tliis open-air life suits me well, though, when one con-
siders it bit by bit, it does not seem so very charming. Long
wearisome riding, indifferent monotonous eating, no spoit to
speak of, hard bed upon the ground, hot sun, wet, no com-
panion of my own class ; nevertlieless I am happier than I
have been for years.'

June 29th. — As we went on our way in the early morning
we met a Crec Indian and his wife travelling by themselves,
with a dog drawing their effects in a little cariole. He was
a chiefs son, and showed us with evident pride a letter to hi;;
father from the superintendent of Qu'appelle Fort, full of
jn-aises of the highly estimable parent. At leave-taking I
gave liim a present of tobacco, and we parted on the most
cordial terms.

After dinner I set up a target, to see if I vore in good
shooting after siieli long disuse, ii'.id made some toleraljk' hits

i if

CHAP. V. FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. 55

with my favourite Purdey ; then passing the ritie on to M'Kay,
he took two shots, and beat me with the second, which
struck very close to the bull's-eye. Old Numme now looked-
out his weapon, a gun I had got for him at Fort Ellice, — one
of the regular " trade" articles, flint-locked, thin-metalled,
and priced at but a few shillings over a pound in the Com-
pany's tariff.

Putting up a piece of can\as considerably larger than a
house door, Pierre withdrew some thirty paces and blazed
away, bi:t without tlie slightest result. By no means dis-
couraged, the persevering fellow immediately set to w^ork to
improve his gun. He filed and hammered at the barrel, and
twisted it about with his hands, finally he thrust a long
stick down it, then placing the jirojecting end between the
cart-wheel spokes, levered with might and main till he
thought the tube was sufficiently straight. Absurd as all
this seemed, it really improved the gun, which, being of
the same pattern as those bought by tlie Indians and ren-
dered serviceable by similar rough doctoring, was in time
likely to become a fairly useful weapon, at any rate for
extremely short ranges.

We found a most pleasant situation for our evening halt,
encamping ourselves on. the summit of a warm dry knoll,
carpeted with fragrant wild thyme. At dusk a wolf made
his appearance, and sneaked slowly past at the foot of the
liillook, taking care, however, to keep himself more than a
hundred yards from the tents. Catching up my rifle, I fired
a hasty shot at him. I could hardly see the point sight
through the gi'owing darkness, but the ball struck hard upon
him somewhere, and rolled him over ; nevertheless he stag-
gered to his feet again, and limped towards tlvo thicket he had
come from. There \\as a f];eneral rush to secure him, the

I III

'ill

i l l i ' ll l i ] i.JIUjIlin l

FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT.

<1IAI'. V.

dogs of course foremost, but Pointev showed none of his
brother's phick, and Hector proved no hero, so with two or
three snarls and snaps the wolf put them to rout, and fairly
made his escape.

June SOth. — We had now come to a glorious plain. The
sandy soil was covered with a short, crisp grass, perfect for
riding over, had it not been for the treacherous badger-earths,
which s])read themselves into great honeycombs of half-hidden
holes, undermining the lesser elevations and forming absolute
l)it-falls for a galloping horse.

Nunnne thought we might find cabrees here, so I mounted
the Bichon, while he, to my sur])ripe, chose mouse-like little
Mouldy, and we sot olT together in search of the antelopes.
After riding four miles we saw a buck, but could not get near
him. We then observed five others, does and young ones,
and as fresh meat Avas nnich wanted, T determined to go after
then) in spite of th.^ evident i)Oorncss of the lot. Creejiing
bel'.ind a l)ank, 1 got within range of the largest one. Her
hiuineh was straight to me, but they had taken alarm and
were in the act of starting on their swift flight over the
l)oundless pi. irie, so I had no choice but to shoot at once,
without much thuught of aim ; luckily the ball went high,
and drojjped her lifeless with a broken neck.

Pierre cut her up like a juggkn- doing a conjuring trick.
One moment, an antelope .stretched along the turf, — the next,
nothing there but a paunch and a ghastly back-bone, — the
next, Numme in his saddle blandly lriunii)liant, enshrined
amids' nicely-cut joints and lindjs and strips of flesh, hun-."
round him in the tidiest fashion ; no London butcher's shop
more severely trim in its pink-and-white array.

The ( .ibree is the oidy antelitpe in America. It is a
pretty, bufi'-coloured creature, less tlian a fallow deer, and very

*-lU

--^

fllAI'. V.

FORT ELLICE TO (^'APPELLE FORT.

r)7

lightly forinod, in a]>pe{iraiicG sonictliing betweon ii dcev, an
antelope, and a goat. The niale.s liave black horns, strong
and thick for a few inches from the head, then dividing, — the
front half projected forward in a short triangnlar point, the
other half much longer and tin-ned backwards in a hook, like
the horn of a chamois; hence the animal's name — AntUopc
favcifer, or Frong-Jiurned Antelope. They are shy and wary,
and too swift to be approached on horseback.*

We had a long ride back to the carts, for tlie men had
taken a wrong turn and diverged considerably towards the
river Qu'appelle. Feeling tired after so much riding under
the tierce sun-rays that beat on those shadeless sandy ])lains,
I got into the waggon, and travelled in that manner till we
halted for the night at the Wolf Hills, a low, rather thickly
wooded range that separates two open prairies.

It began to blow hard, and about 10 o'clock a tremen-
dous thunderstorm bi'oke over us, with torrents of rain at
intervals. Wlienever the rain ceased the mostpiitoes bit
furiously, and drove the horses nearly to madness. Several
times that night tlie men had to (piit tlieir slieltering tent in
order to keep \\\) the smoke-fires under lee of which our poor
beasts found refuge from their persecutors.

July 2d. — Yesterday afternoon we passed along an ele-
vated " black earth" prairie, camping at Great Creek, — a broad
valley whose sides consist of round bluffs perhaps 100 feet
in height, flat on the top, and divided by deep ravines ; but
after breakfast to-day we came to plains of a sandy character,

* Antiloju! furi'ifci'. ^Ijursldf-r/iii.'.iios, also, My-attchk — Cree liuliaiis.
" Till! AntiloiH' fuvcij'cr ilitlurs from the true antelopes, in having a snag or
liriinch on its horns, and wanting' the eruniens or lachrymal opeiiinj^s, ami
also in liciii!^ destitnte (>t'the iiostcrior or acecssoi'v hool's, there hi'iiig only two
oil <'acli i'ooi."- KiciiAitiisii.N', F'liiii. Hor.-.iiiK, vol. i. \\. 'l^i'i. Antiloeapra
Amerieana. lliNU, Can. h'.r. E.fj)., vol. i. \\. ;!(M>. *

L' JiUB» < W. i H. l liWi

FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. ohap. v.

also at an elevated level, and traversed them till we roaclied
a very pretty lake, which, I was told, formed one of a series
that were connected with the River Qu'appello. It is named
the Lake of tl e Valley. In size it seemed somewhere iil)()ut
a hundied acres, its banks were low and unwooded, its shores
composed of sand and pebbles. Farther on it is connected
with a narrow, river-like piece of water, with steep wooded
banks, which runs out of the Great Creek.

After this I rode forward on Wawpooss, and went to
tlie summit of a bluff, whence there was an extensive view
over a level prairie, bounded by a stretch of woodland in the
distance.

No life was visible except a solitary wolf — or fox — run-
ning across the plain, !N"ot a buffalo to be seen, though for
the last two days we had been constantly finding the skulls
and bones of former herds. M'Kay, however, discovered a few
pigeons in a little grove, and shot two or three of them.

We halted for dinner not far from Qa'api)elle Fort, and
afterwards occupied ourselves with some more target practice.
At 120 yards, Sliort made a beautiful shot with his own
double-barrelled flint gun — which was of a class but slightly
superior to Numme's single-barrel, — striking very close to a
bull's-eye little larger than a half-crown piece. He was said
to be equally skilfil with the bov/ : they told me that he
could beat any Indiim with that weapon, being even able to
put an arrow into a bird hovering on the wing.

The noise of our shooting was heard at the Fort, and pre-
sently an Indian, riding a black horse plenteously bedaubed
with "white mud" (pipe-clay), came guUojting up to recon-
noitre us. Keadily satisfied ao to tlie character of the party,
he stayed with us a while and regaled liimself with meat and
t (bacco, then returned to announce our approacli ; and when

CHAP. V. FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT.

soon afterwards we continued our march, we almost immedi-
ately found ourselves in view of a body of horsemen, who
were awaiting us on the rise of an eminence at no great dis-
tance from the track. They turned out to be Mr. Cardinal —
tlie superintendent of the Fort, and five or six young Indians
in their best array, glorious in paint and ornaments and fan-
tastic apparel.

The most striking figure among them was a Cree, who
wore a beautiful white robe of dressed skin, bordered with a
vermilion and black pattern that seemed to be meant for rows
of calumets. They were all well mounted, and rode with
ease and spirit, and not without
a certain grace, — thougli they
crouched very strangely, like
wild beasts dropped down from
trees. One young man amused
me by the frank artlessness of
his vanity. Happening to see

that I was looking at him, he immediately began to show
off in the most undisguised manner, stirring up his fiery
steed to all sorts of antics, the rider, meanwhile, ostenta-
tiously at his ease, and eyeing me with good-humoured little
smiles of ineffable self-complacency.

As soon as we arrived at the Fort, Mr. Cardinal took me
into a good-sized room, which we had hardly entered when
several old Indians came in and joined us. They belonged
to a party of Ojibways who were waiting here for a short
time before following the main body of their tiibe to the
plains.

Nothing could exceed the politeness of these Indians, as
they seated themselves quietly round the room and smoked
their pipes with gentleman-like deliberation, — though with

CRBE PATTERN,

mm^.

KOIIT ELUVA TO gU'Al'PELLE FORT.

tiiAr. V.

more than coinnioii enjoyment, for they hud been weeks
\vith(nit the comforts of tobacco, owin^' to the; total laibiro of
the stores at the Fort. There vsas plenty ot convcu'sation as
well as smoking, but none of it of the slightest interest so far
as 1 could make out. Ah rifle took their fancy exceedingly ;
they seemecl never tired of looking at it, passing it from hand
to hand w'th many admiring speeches.

We formed our camp about ft mile from Fort (Ju'apj)elle,
hoping to be u little out of reach of visitors, but before we
were well settled the Indians came thronging in. There
were twenty-four men in all, mostly uj:bways. One of the
])arty, however, a young man of pleasant appearance named
" Lcs I'rairies," was the son of " Fox.'" a well-known chief of
the I'luin Crees, and others of the same tribe were there also.
They were the be.st-looking Indians I had yet seen, — ' very
civil, sitting or lying quietly round our lire, and touching
nothing.' I sent them a couple of .spans of tobacco a-piece,
iinddoiible that (piantity to each of the two head-men. One
of the latter presently came forward and thanked me for my
gift.s, at the .same time offering a dressed buft'alo-skin of
no great value. He lingered awhile, then grumblingly told
M'Kay that he expected more tobacco in return. ^I'Kay, to
whom I had left all these arrangements, immediately answered
that we were not tradei-s, and gave him back the skin.

The Indians stayed very late : 1 thought we should never
get rid of them, ^lany of the women seated themselves a
little distance off, and watched us with unwearying interest.
IJabies, in little painted cradles, were carried by some among
their number. Their dress consisted of a tunic which Ici't
the neck and arms bare, a robe above it and leggings beneath.
The men weie similarly attired, though no two were exactly
alike ; J.es Trairies and another Cree hatl noticeably better

II? \I'. V.

FOllT ETJJ(!K TO (,H"APPKLLK FOllT.

fil

clotlios than tho rest. Oiio of the licatl-inciii n]>p('ar(!(l in ii
cuvioiiH cap of badger-flkin, — prjliaps in allusion to his nanui,
" rointod-cap."

After our visitors left us wolves came prowling about, but
I could not succeed in getting a shot at these cautious
marauders. For reasons of their own, which I never hap-
pened to ascertain, the OJibways " danced " a scalp all night,
and long banished sleep l)y their monotonous incessant drum-

nnng.

Snndi /, Jiih/ dd. — The Indians, T was told, w " ,; uch
ashanvMl of 'lie conduct of the head man wW l,;^ti olii'ved
us thi s n and then resumed his gift, and blained him
excei'dii j, !»eing afraid that I would not now visit their
cami) and bestow on them some annnunition according to
promise. Of course I meant to make no difference in any
way.

Our first occupation that morning was to leavg supi»lies
of tobacco with INIr. Cardinal for liimself and his people. 1
then walked to the Indian camp, accomiianied by M'Kay,
who on all such occasions acted as my inter])reter. " S[iots-
in-the-sky" (the head-man who had not behaved badly) as a
matter of right received our first visit. His tent, like all the
rest in that encampment, was a conical structure of buffalo-
skins, enclosing a circular space ol moderate dimensions.
Several women and children — none of whom were pretty —
were seated on the ground, also two or three young men, one
of them industriously at work in making triangular arrow-
heads of sheet-iron to fix into a set of light wooden shafts
which he had already prepared.

After due handshaking, old " Spots," in the politesf. man-
ner, invited me to seat myself on a buffalo-robe at the further
side from the door. He then treated us to a long oration, full

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

11.25

L; IZB |2.5

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

■^

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0

(716)872-4303

'V-

FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. chai'. v.

iff'

of rather suggestive acknowledgments of my former liberal-
ity, and reproaches against the other head-man Tor his shabby
and unseemly conduct ; which being concluded, I made a
short reply to the ancient orator, and M'Kay then handed
him some powder and ball to distribute to his people as he
thought fitting. He seemed really gratified, and expressed
his thanks with genial warmth and friendliness. After this
I took my departure, not forgetting to give some tobacco to
the women for their own particular use, as otherwise they
were likely to have come off but badly.

We next went to call on Pointed- cap, the rival head-man.
We did not stay long under his roof, however, for he was far
less talkative and agreeable than Spots, and plainly enough
exhibited his discontent with my present of ammunition,
though the supply was the same as tliat which had been
so well received in the other tent. Nevertheless, I thought
it best not to seem aware that any want of cordiality existed ;
so I was careful to make no change in my manner, and when
I rose to take leave they all behaved with the utmost respect
and politeness.

In Pointed-cap's tent there were two young wives with
their babies, and two or three girls, — all of them equally devoid
of good looks. There were also several young men. I saw no
curiosities either there or at Spots's home, nothing indeed worth
remark except the arrow-making already mentioned.

In the evening Les Prairies and a man handsomely
dressed in the Cree fashion paid me a visit. From the latter
I obtained a curious whip, which had its handle and wrist-
loop ornamented with mink and fisher fur, and its thong
double-lashed towards the point and strung round with pieces
of copper, — receiving it in exchange for a flannel shirt, a case
in which both sides had the best of the bargain.

11-

CHAP. V. FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT.

I requested him, and Les Prairies, and the Cree who wore
the painted robe, to come to me next morning for a private
present of ammunition ; which they did not fail to do. Old
Spots also appeared to claim a knife I had promised him.

[Having much sympathy with the Indians, I felt sorry to
have disappointed even an old grumbler like Pointed-cap.
But in this case I acted entirely under M'Kay's advice,
having to consider the likelihood of an early meeting with
great camps of the Crees, and perhaps of the Assiniboines, or
even the Blackfeet, whom it would need all my available
resources to propitiate, especially as I intended a lengthened
absence from the Forts, where alone one could procure fresh
supplies. These Ojibways, indeed, had but little claim, being
so small a party, and rather beyond the bounds of their own
proper territory.]

Nearly all these Indians were painted with vermilion,
which decidedly became them, heightening the richness of
their swarthy skins and jetty locks, and adding lustre to their
searching glances ; one young warrior, however, had chosen
to mask his face in a veil of sickly yellow, relieved by scarlet
spots and streaks encircling both his eyes. It was hard to
refrain from laughter at the sight of so extraordinary a figure.
Certainly, thought I, this is the incarnate god of bile, if such
a deity there be in any of the paradises.

A dog happening to pass drawing a " train " after the
common Indian fashion, I was amused to see the astonish-
ment of my little Vermont ponies, unaccustomed to such
sights at home. With pricked ears and starting eyes they
trotted after the marvellous object and followed it wherever
it went, till at length the dog managed to slip away and
make his escape from their inconvenient attentions.

Last night the wind was exceedingly high and boisterous.

itMH

FORT ELLICE TO QU'APFELLE FORT.

CHAI

and it continued so during all the day, but it fell towards
evening, and there was a singularly lovely sunset. I sat at
my tent door till daylight faded into darkness, now gazing at
the splendour of the sun as he floated, all gorgeous in strong
orange hues, amidst the opaline tinting of the delicate light-
grey clouds, now looking on the pages of Shakspeare's
"Troilus and Cressida:" — ah! with what different scenes
did my memory come to link the most noble passages of that
drama.

,/i/:#ifei?k^i_

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8
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CHAPTER VI.

QU'APPELLE FORT TO THE INDIAN ELBOW.

JULY Mh. — We had arranged for an early start, but a
thunder-storm, with heavy rain, delayed us, and it was 8
o'clock before we got fairly under weigh. Some of the Fort
hunters started at the same time for the plains, but they were
going by a different track, which tended far to the south
of the unfrequented district that we were bound for. Our
own road ran for a while through a prairie with many islands
of brush, it then passed through black-earth plains and
swamps with occasional sandhills, then traversed a country
of sandy, rolling character.

As we were journeying along a cabree rose close to us :
I could have shot it had not the dogs run forward and chased
it away. This filled up the measure of Hector's iniquities.
M'Kay and I held a court-martial on him, and condemned him
to death, — as useless, as a fool, as spoiling sport, and as teach-
ing the other dog bad lessons. The sentence was instantly
carried out : M'Kay put his pony alongside, and sent a bulkt
through the culprit's heart. As the poor wretch lay dying.
Pointer, a generally good-natured dog, flew at him and
worried him savagely, though he had never had a quarrel
with his ill-fated companion.

Towards evening we saw several wolves, and ran a very
fine white one, but could not overtake him.* While we were

Canis lupus, occidcntalis.

The American Wolf.
F

Variety B., Lupus

QU'APPELLE FORT TO

CHAP. VI.

^
?,11*

camping, however, near a large wood, — some miles beyond a
place called Long Point, where Nummd had passed three
years with certain free traders, — our wolf again made his
appearance, so I slipped out alone and tried to stalk him
among the bushes. I got within a hundred yards, but by that
time it had grown too dark for shooting at any such distance,
and to get nearer proved impossible, for he quickly discovered
me and kept just out of reach.

Jtill/ 5th. — I stalked two cabrees, and put a bullet through
one of them at 130 yards. He ran some way and lay down.
As I approached him he got up and ran again : I gave him
another ball ; it failed to stop him, though it grazed his
backbone, making the hair fly up like spray from a fountain.
Following on with Nummd, I got another chance. I thought
I had missed, for the antelope went on ; but no, he stopped
short, swayed about a little, and fell dead — the bullet had
grazed his heart. He had but small horns, being only a two-
year old buck, worth little except for eating, and not very
much for that purpose, owing to his extreme leanness.

Then began a long ride across fine rolling sandy plains, as
we made our way to the Qu'appelle, in which direction the carts
were travelling, but at last we reached the pretty valley
through which that river flows towards its ultimate junction
with the Assiniboiue. Bluffs 200 to 300 feet high, much
scored (apparently by torrents in the spring), and in some
places in double and triple range, bounded a vale varying
from a mile to half-a-mile in width. Through this meandered
the Qu'appelle, at that time of year a shallow stream some

albus. There are five varieties— viz. A, 13, C, D, E : — Grey Wolf {Mayhagan —
Crees), White, Pied, Dusky, ami Black, all mucli of the same size and
character. Wolves vary in size in different districts ; the length, exclusive of
tail, is from 4 feet to 4 feet 4 inches : and height at .shoulder from 2 feet to
2 feet 10 inches. — Riciiardron, Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. i. pp. 60-72.

■

CHAP. VI.

THE INDIAN ELBOW.

twenty yards across, pursuing its winding course through
endless brushwood and small poplar groves.*

We crossed the river and ascended the opposite bank,
taking with us supplies of wood, as a wide, bare, sandy expanse
lay before us, dotted with small hillocks and utterly devoid of
trees or brush, though not altogether wanting in fuel, being
thickly strewn with dry buifalo dung — "bois des prairies" I
believe the French voyageurs call it, it is sometimes also
spoken of as buffalo chips. We frequently used it in our
camp fires. I rather liked to burn it, as it throws out a very
pleasant strongly aromatic smell redolent of wild thyme and
other herbs of the prairie.

The swamps were almost dried up, so we had to march
hard and far in search of a good camping-place, which at
length we found at the side of a small lake. We expected to
meet Indians, but they had gone on, which I did not at all
regret. Another cabree gave me a chance this afternoon, but
I missed him ; however, I was more lucky with a young
wolf, which Kline saw lying in a hollow about eighty yards
from the track.

* The sandflies were most troublesome all day, and towards
evening the mosquitoes came out in force. The latter I
divide into three classes : the common brown, the large soft
drab, and the fierce little black — Quirk, Gammon, and Snap!'
[I named them thus after the well-known firm of lawyers in

* "The Cree name of the Qu'appelle river is Kalapayvne sepe, and this is
the origin of the name as told me by the Indian : — A solitary Indian was
coming down the river in his canoe many summers ago, when one day he
heard a loud voice calling to him ; he stopped and listened, and again heard
the same voice as before. He shouted in reply, but there was no answer. Ho
searched everywhere around, but could not find the tracks of any one. So
from that time forth it was named the Who Calls River." — Hind, Can. Ex.
Exp., vol. i. p. 370.

QU'AVPELLE FORT TO

CHAP. VI.

I»>. •

:u;

't f

Ten Hiousand a Year. The Quirks were pertinaciously blood-
sucking, in n humdrum, respectable manner ; the Gammons
alighted like thistle-down, and drank your blood with tender
slyness ; the Snaps rushed in with sudden fury, and nipped
more than they sucked, though careful not to go empty
away.]

Poor thin-skinned Pointer made most absurd contortions
as he writhed under the bites of these tormentors. It seemed
as if they came as ministers of vengeance to punish him for
his cruelty to Hector.

Nor was this the only trouble that immediately befell him.
That identical night, as I was settling myself to sleep, tired
and feverish from the heat of the weather, I was wakened up
by loud and terror-struck yelping, and in a moment Pointer
rushed trembling into my tent, seeking refuge from a large
white wolf, which, in his anxiety to devour our well-fed
dog, had ventured into the very camp in pursuit of him,
going close by the place where all the men were sleeping in
the open air.

Awoke by the disturbance M'Kay reached out for his gun,
and with one shot ended the career of this voracious enemy.
It was a wolf of the largest size, a gaunt old monster, with
t€eth worn to the sockets from long use. No vestiges of food
were to be found in liis stomach ; sheer hunger had doubtless
driven him to his unusual act of daring. It was the last night
he could have crept in unperceived, for we afterwards kept
regular watch, having come to a more dangerous part of the
country, where our horses required protection from the attempts
of Indian marauders.

July 6th. — There was heavy rain in the night and morn-
ing, and the damp, I suppose, brought on an attack that made
me feel very weak and ill for a while. After we set out I

;

CHAP. VI.

THE INDIAN ELBOW.

stalked a cabree, but in vain. Then I stalked three white
cranes, which I had observed looking exquisitely beautiful
beside a small pool of water ; could not get near them ; tried
a long shot, and missed.

During part of the day we travelled near a branch of
the Qu'appelle, called Long Lake Creek, a stream flowing
through a gorge of considerable depth. As we came to the
brink of a steep-sided narrow trench of a glen that runs into
this valley, we were surprised to find in it a hidden grove of
trees, in one of which a raven had built its nest and reared its
young.

We camped at the end of a lake in Stony Valley. So
intense was the heat that I was compelled to leave the tent
door open all night, trying for the first time a muslin mosquito
net, which was hung from above so as to encompass my bed
and form a sort of inner chamber. It answered tolerably
well, but not well enough to repay the trouble of arranging
it, so I never used it again. — * The flies [mosquitoes] are the
pest of creation. Welcome rain, wind, sun, — anything that
annoys and destroys the tormentors !'

July 1th. — Marching before breakfast we came to some
stony sand blufis, where I ran a wolf a little way, but unsuc-
cessfully. Presently Numm6 and I observed a single buffalo
bull, about half-a-mile from us. He instantly made off, the
wind blowing towards him, and as neit lier the ground nor our
horses suited, we had to let him go L o r'ay.

Hoping to come on more buffalo, 1 mounted the Bichon,
and M'Kay mounting Wawpooss, we rode on together and
searched all the country round. No game, however, was to
be seen, except some cabrees in the distance. Large bands
of Indians were evidently in the neighbourhood ; in one
recent camp, probably of Crees, we counted no less than forty-

ti' -*

QU'APPELLE FORT TO

ClIAP. VI.

■ t

IP'

&ii

two tont-sitcs. Anxious not to draw their attention, I had
the canvas tilt removed from the waggon, as it was by far too
conspicuous an object.

This was a prairie country of sand and crisp grass, of
level tracts varied with hills and bluffs and undulations, of
many little lakes and swamps scattered about here and there.
Flowers of the gayest colour enlivened the landscape. The
most common were the small tiger-lilies and the roses, and
next came blue-bells and white strawberry blossoms. Some-
times acres and acres were covered with intermingled masses
of the orange lily and the pendulous blue-bell, the whole of
them so short of stem that the glory of the flowers combined
with the rich greenness of their leaves, and it seemed as if a
vast oriental carpet had been thrown upon the plain.

Towards evening the heat of the weather changed to
heavy showers, with flashes of lightning at intervals ; we saw
that a storm was coming, and made haste to camp in a wild
rocky valley that offered itself at no great distance from the
track. Three very young wolves appeared when we entered
this secluded glen, but I did not care to shoot the poor little
creatures. The plains we had been passing through during
the day were thickly strewn with buffalo skulls, the relics of
former slaughter by Indians or half-breed hunting parties.
' "We did not see as many ground-squirrels as usual, but, as
usual, saw a pair of small bii'ds chasing a crow.'

July 8th. — The little wolves kept up a choms all night
long, beginning each fresh strain with mewing whines, like a
family of peevish kittens, then bursting into tremulous,
melancholy howls. The effect was very pleasing ; it har-
monised so well with the savage loneliness of the scene, that
I should have been sorry to miss this wild wolfish music.

The rain had ceased, and it was a fine morning when we

Pffi2'

CIIAI'. VI,

THE INDIAN ELBOW.

: i

resumed our j6urnoy. I again mounted myself on Bichon, in
case of meeting with buffalo, and carried a twelve-horo gun
loaded with ball, instead of my favourite rifle. M'Kay, as
before, selected Wawpooss. No buffalo were anywhere dis-
coverable, but we presently observed a large white wolf, and
at once gave chase. He ran well, so well that I could not get
near him ; "Wawpooss, however, showed his speed, and dis-
tancing the Bichon, just as ho had done in a race on the pre-
vious day, he soon brought M'Kay all but alongside. Another
moment and a shot would have finished the exhausted wolf,
but he saved his life by turning suddenly down a steep
rocky bank that overhung some swampy shallows of the
Qu'appelle. I dismounted and followed, but the beast kept
himself closely hidden in a jungle of high reeds and rushes :
I could see nothing of him, and got badly mosquitoed for my
pains.

Soon after this we all descended into the valley and
halted for dinner. The heat was intense, not a breath of
wind stirring ; the earth glowed like a furnace. The air
swarmed with bulldog flies, the only living creatures that
seemed to flourish in this stifling atmosphere.

We made a long halt, and then travelled up the valley
till we came to the Sandy Hills, the first of which we
ascended. These hills, covering a considerable tracty are
about 200 feet high, and are entirely composed of sand as
fine as that of the sea-shores. Near them the grass grows
short and scantily, much as on some of the " links " along
the Scottish coast. The Crees fancy that the souls of good
men enter into a paradise cone ^aled amidst these arid ranges,
while the souls of the bad have to pass over an exceedingly
narrow bridge, whence they fall into pits of despair and utter
wretchedness.

QU'APPELLE FOllT TO

CHAP. VI.

■- (

i. ■ 't

I was nuicli (li.sap])ointcd at seoing no biifTalo, for wo Imd
fully oxpccted to como upon tlioni to-day. Tho only tracks
of any sort that wc noticed wore thoao of .sonio Americans,
who having started for Frasor lliver without a gniilo, had
hero lost thoniselvcs in tho desert, to judge at least from the
circuitous courses they had been describing. ' Others of tho
same party had tMigaged one Whitefoord for their guide from
Fort tlarry, but he had positively refused to go by the road
we were following, fearing tho Indians, — " les sauvages," as
the half-breeds call them.'

As wc toiled onwards through the sand-hills tlie heat
became almost unbearable. For miles together no water
could be found. Pointer twice fell into a fit, choking and
gasping in agony, but both times fortunately when water
happened to be within easy reach. Ho had another narrow
escape for his life, the waggon veiy nearly ninning over him,
but the wheel merely bruised his paws, and did him no harm
to speak of.

The horses suffered miserably from the bulldog flies.
Poor Pichon, being light coloured and thin of skin, was
more attacked than the others. The blood ran in streams
down his cream-coloured sides — he looked as if he had been
spurred from head to foot. My aim grew stiff from killing
his tormentors ; again and again I slow seven or eight at a
blow. Sometimes I counted three or four dozen upon him :
and this lasted all day, and only ended at sunset.

' Pichon is a pony of original mind. He is not pretty,
indeed is getting somewhat elderly, but he is the most
amiable of animals, albeit rather obstinate. Pland affability
beams from his countenance and rests on the white star on
his l)road forehead. He likes to be petted, and will come up
to me when 1 am riding another horse to have his face

)

3 - ■ *» :

m-A.l

OHAI'. Vf.

THE INDIAN ELBOW.

,''

scratched, which, alas ! it often much needs, for the mosquitoes
and bulldogs niako sad havoc of ' lo pauvro lUchon.'

' Of all my horses he is the only one tliat eats flowers, and
I have had many a laugh at seeing the old fellow wander
off the track to browse on a tuft of blue-bells or tiger-lilies.
Ho particularly delights in certain purple weeds that grow
in such large tufts as to be often mistaken at a distance for
buffaloes. "Why is it absurd that a horse should eat flowers ?
I know not why, but it is. An ancient philosopher died of
laughter at the sight of an ass eating roses.

' Poor Bichon I his worst fault is neighing when parted
by ever so little from his friends. At length he has leamfc
that this is a forbidden practice, so ho takes great pains to
check himself, and at any moment of forgetfulness or strong
temptation changes his incipient neigh into the funniest little
muffled squeaks, ending in a sort of low appealing sigh. . . .

'I could go on writing for hours about my horses, for
having no companion, I am always watching them and
amusing myself with their queer ways.

* Much might be said about that strange little pony Waw-
pooss, who looks such a weak, poor wretch, and is really
one of the fastest and most enduring of buffalo-runners. He
is milky white, with rod specks on his head and neck ; his
mane and tail are very long and straight and fine, and of a
silvery glitter ; liis skin is as sleek and shiny as satin.

' He has the funniest head that ever was seen, very large
about the nose, and his eyes have a most singular expression
of resigned gravity and patient endurance of life — the endur-
ance of a Cynic philosopher, of one soured rather than
unhappy. I call him Wawpooss, which means Eabbit,
because he looks like one of those animals ; — not one of the
silly kind, by no means so, but some austere old buck, who.

QU'APPELLE FORT TO THE INDIAN ELBOW, chap. vi.

■11

under sufficient provocation, would dmm handsomely on any
spaniel's ribs ; yet he is very mild and peaceable, and all the
other horses bite and bully him.'*

When evening approached, we began to search for a
camping-place near some good water, but for long in vain.
M'Kay and I went to examine several small lakes that came
into our view ; all of them were brackish, and tasted like
bad carbonate of soda. Anxious to cool my horse, I rode
him into one thau looked better than the rest ; half mad
with thirst, he plunged his head in and tried to drink, but
instantly stopped in disgust. For my own part I could not
refrain, whatever might be the nature of the fluid, so I
dipped down my leather cup, and swallowed large draughts
of the tepid brine, and, parched and feverish as I was, it
seemed refreshing in spite of its nauseousness.

At last we came to a lake filled near the upper end with
a luxuriant growth of rushes and wild garlic, among which
the water proved on trial to be nearly free from salt. This,
it is said, is usually the case where such vegetation is found,
— whether because the plants have a purifying quality, or
because they mark the position of wholesome springs, I did
not happen to ascertain.

* Except one or two sentences from my journal, this extract is taken from
a letter written about that date to a friend at home.

■I

CHAPTER VII.

INDIAN ELBOW TO CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH.

July 9th. — The sun was again powerful, but a high west
wind cooled the air and made travelling far more pleasant.
About mid-day we arrived at the overhanging brow of a
valley, and there, outspread beneath us, I beheld the long
desired object — the Elbow of the South Saskatchewan. Few
but Indians have seen this place, as it is in a neighbourhood
too dangerous to be much visited.

'The river here makes an elbow-like angle, whence is
derived the name ; its course is nearly due north, and then it
turns due west. The channel seems about five hundred
yards wide just above the turn, and is full of sandbanks,
which give a shallow appearance to the stream. On both
sides its banks are broken into bluffs, with wooded ravines
sloping gradually back to the prairies. As if in continuation
of [the line of] the lower part of its bend [forming an
easterly prolongation of the hollow it occupies after its sharp
turn], runs a valley a quarter of a mile wide, at the side of
which we are encamped. Down this flows to it a small
stream [ruiming due west]* that rises, I am told, about
five miles off in a quaking morass, whence also proceeds the

* The "Aiktow lliver," or "liiver that turns. " — Palliser, Hind. Mr.
Hind states, no doubt correctly, that this stream rises in a pond twelve miles
distant from the Elbow. —Can. Ex, Exp. , vol. i. p. 355.

•i

^i|

K ;

INDIAN ELBOW TO

CHAP. VII.

Eiver Qii'appelle, which at first runs due east, though soon
making a northerly turn near the Sandy Hills. The valley
of the little stream is, in direction, a prolongation of that of
the Qu'appelle, but the ground is so elevated at the marshy
lieight of land which obstructs it, that water communications
between the Qu'appelle and Saskatchewan would be almost
impossible.* Arrowsmith's map [then probably the best
existing — Sir George Simpson gave me the copy I possess] is
very faulty here, the Qu'appelle being shown to rise some
sixty miles from the Elbow, instead of within five [? twelve]
miles as it really does.'

Mr. Hind describes the South Branch, near the Elbow, as
" a river of the first class, nearly half-a-mile broad, and flow-
ing with a swift current, not more than 350 miles from the
Eocky Mountains, whence it takes its rise" (Hind, Can.
Ex. Exp., vol. i. p. 366). I cannot help thinking this
measurement too largely generalised. I could hardly have
estimated the width of the river at 600 yards if it had nearly
approached 880 yards (half-a-mile).

Mr. Hind, however, repeats his estimate of " half-a-mile
broad" ... "at the Elbow" (vol. i p. 388). He else-
where speaks of the same river as continuing "for many
miles [below the Elbow] about 700 yards broad " (vol. i. p.
382). My own party crossed at a place between twenty and
thirty miles below the Elbow, and I there estimated the

* Mr. Hind goes fully into this question. He considers a junction fea-
sible — "The construction of a dam 85 feet high and 800 yards long would
send the waters of the South Branch down the Qu'appelle valley and the
Assiniboine into Red River, thence past Fort Garry into Lake Winnipeg.
The same result would be produced if a cutting were made through the
height of land in the Qu'appelle valley to the depth of 40 or 50 feet, and a
dam some 30 or 40 feet high thrown across the South Branch." — Van. Ex,
Exp., vol. i. pp. 42G-430.

•I

^' "" ' '■* *' '''* ~'^s^ffW'ii itTi » ii.jtfrir'i:irnLiiii!iiji L 'i

''5

Eye-sketch sJunoing the Elbow of the South Sttskatchcwan ,
by Lord SotUhesk, 1859.

f •

""^^^L \

'^^^ \

■^m^^^^^k m%..

\*y

'il^/^Ki •^i^^KtN^^S'ViffjfJ^M?^^ 'i^

w^^

^^ '*^'M^i^>^^

>' fc^^^^ •'

JP/a;i showing the Elbow of the South Saskatchewan : by Mr. Bind, 1858.

(See p. 77.)

CHAP. VII.

CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH.

breadth at 600 yards, the river being considerably in flood.
While noting this discrepancy, I admit that Mr. Hind is far
more likely to be right than myself, both as a skilled and
accurate observer, and as being furnished with scientific
instruments — if in this case he thought it necessary to use
them. It is possible our measurements apply to slightly
different portions of the river. Mr. Hind uses the general
words — "at the Elbow," while I write — 'just above the
comer ' [of the Elbow.]

Another discrepancy I may venture to point out. I
refer to the obtuseness of the angle at the Elbow in Mr.
Hind's map (vol. i. p. 366). In my own rough eye-sketch
I make the angle far more acute, and in my diary I note
that the stream flows * nearly due north, and then due west,'
— my authority for these bearings being merely an accurate
pocket compass. I observe, however, that in the maps
appended to the Eeports of Captain Palliser's Exploring
Expedition {Blm Books 1859 and 1860), the Elbow has an
angle, which, though intermediate, rather less resembles Mr.
Hind's drawing than mine.

On the bank above the Aiktow vaUey we came for the
third time on a recent site of the great camp of Indians,
Assiniboines we then supposed, but I believe they were
Crees. They had evidently driven all the buffalo before them
to the hnis about thirty miles up this south branch of the
Saskatchewan, the farthest point in the Blackfoot direction
to which the other tribes can venture. In the evening I
walked with Numme about the river-banks, but saw nothing
to shoot, and found the mosquitoes quite unbearable.

July 11th. — After breakfast I rode with M'Kay and
Nummd to explore the country higher up the course of the
river. We went to the top of a hill about nine or ten miles

iy.*

INDIAN ELBOW TO

CHAP. VII.

;,ii

off, — not a living creature was in sight ; so we returned,
keeping along the river-side, among little banks and knolls
and patches of wood, but there was nothing there either, not
even a fresh tmck.

M'Kay having subsequently found out that a great band
of buffalo had crossed the Saskatchewan at a place not far
from the Elbow, the question presented itself whether we
ought to follow them, and afterwards make straight for Fort
Pitt, — or travel up stream towards the Cyprus Hills and the
Blackfoot country, as we had lately thought of doing. After
some consideration I determined on the former route, both as
offering better prospects of sport, and as likely to be less
dangerous, for it lay almost entirely within the territories of
the friendly Crees. Want of water seemed our principal
risk in traversing such arid deserts ; as to that, however, we
were ignorant enough, only judging by hearsay — the remoter
districts being unknown even to our guide. And here an
unlooked-for difficulty arose, — Numm(5,this very guide, quietly
announced that he would not go with us to Fort Pitt, al-
leging that his contract only bound him to take us to Fort
Carlton.

Tliis could not for a moment be endured. I summoned
Numme to my tent, and made M'Kay read the engage-
ment aloud, and explain to him that if he refused to guide
us wherever I might desire, we would guide ourselves, and
would send him back forthwith, on foot, and without the
remainder of his pay — more I could not threaten, for he had
been partly paid in advance. On hearing this decision he at
once gave in ; said he had merely wanted to know what his
contract was, — that he had misunderstood something, — that
he was ready to go anywhere.

CHAP. VII.

CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH.

l^i

July 12th. — We left the Elbow soon after breakfast, and
travelled northwards down the course of the stream, keeping
as near it as the many ravines permitted. Our object was to
discover a suitable crossing-place, in order to follow the
buffalo herd, but it was no easy matter to find one, such
facilities being rare in that part of the Saskatchewan, owing
to the general steepness and muddiness of the descent to' the
water's edge.

The river became much prettier below the Elbow. The
banks had a gentler slope, and were less broken into unsightly
naked bluffs ; the stream itself was more free from shoals, and
looked very noble in its vast expanse, with level grass-clad pro-
montories projecting into it at varying intervals, marking out
its course and diverting it into many a graceful bend. The
weather was pleasant and genial, though a high easterly wind
struck hard upon us as we continued our journey. We made
quick marching over the hard, dry, sunbaked gi'ound, crossing
alternate hill and plain as we kept along the river-banks,
and it was late in the day when we halted.

This morning, seeing a cabree btick with a magnificent
head, I ran him several miles. Vain attempt ! Morgan did
his best, but could not approach the antelope. Then I
got on Black and ran a doe, — equally hopeless, even the
swift Black was left far behind.

As I returned from the second chase I perceived M'Kay
and Numme driving a large buffalo before them, which on
my nearer approach I found to be an old bull, very thin and
sickly and hardly able to move. It was a mercy to save him
from the cruelty of the wolves ; so, as he had to die, I rode
past him on Black and gave him a shot for practice' sake — a
buffalo's strange form making him a puzzling mark for a be-
ginner, — but I placed it too high, as one is always apt to do,

INDIAN ET;iiOW TO

CHAP. vn.

ill

^;J

I I

and it merely dropped him on his knees, without depriving
him of life. I then dismounted, and, walking close up to
him, fired both barrels of my gun right at the centre of his
forehead. There was no result, no more than if a clod of
earth had struck him : the bull continued in the same posi-
tion, glaring at me with savage eyes ; the densely matted hair
on his thick skull had completely defied the penetrative force
of a smooth-bore. M'Kay then gave roj my Purdey rifle.
At the very first shot the conical bullet passed clean through
hair and bone, and the huge old buffalo rolled over, dead.

Soon afterwards we saw another bull feeding about, a
good distance away on the prairie. I mounted the Bichon,
^M'Kay took his favourite Wawpooss, and we set out, using
every depression in the ground to conceal ourselves from
view. The bull, however, quickly observed us, and made
off at a remarkably fast pace, with a long start in his favour
besides. After some miles' galloping we began to near him.
M'Kay was leading, though not by much, and when signs
of the finish appeared, he drew rein and let me pass on.

The bull was still running, but in evident distress. Sud-
denly he stopped short in a small hollow, turned round and
faced me. Bichon was rather blown, and as I checked him
at the edge of the hollow he made a great stumble, as nearly
as possible falling on his head — in which case I should have
lauded directly on the horns of the buffalo. Happily my
pony recovered himself in time, and the bull remaining at
bay about ten yards from me, I dropped him with a bullet
in the shoulder, and finished him witli another in the brain.
Like many of the males at tliat season this fine, well-grown
bull was exceedingly scant of flesh, so we left his carcase, and
merely brought in tlie tongue. Even that was tough eating,
thougli far from being rank or ill flavoured.

VII.

CIIAl'. VH.

CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH.

{/,

Bichon agreeably disappointed me. On seeing the
buffalo he got quite excited, and forgetting his usual lazi-
ness, ran far better than I had at all expected from his
recent performances. He was a quiet and manageable beast,
very different from troublesome Black, who required one's
whole attention when game was on foot. No more buffalo
appeared that day. There were numbers of cabree, but the
plain was too level for approacliing them.

Jiili/ IWi. — 'As we sat round the fire before turning in
last night, M'Kay and Matheson told me some interesting
stories about the Indian magic, ' medicine ' as they term it.
The Crees, it seems, are the most noted for these mysterious
arts. Some of them, when wishing to injure another man's
horse, either tlirough jealousy or to secure a race, are able to
destroy its galloping powers for ever by rubbing a certain
substance on its legs. There is a hunter at Edmonton who
was the swiftest-footed runner in the district. While he was
sleeping, some Indians who were in the same tent rubbed
his legs with magic stuff j thenceforth his power left him, and
has never since returned.

' There are Indian conjurors who will allow themselves to
be bound from head to foot with nets, cords, straps, or any-
thing ; then, entering their small ' medicine tent,' it is seen
to heave violently for about five minutes, after which all the
fastenings are thrown out at the top of the tent, not one knot
being disturbed, and the wizard steps forth perfectly free.
This I had heard before from James M'Kav and also from
his brother ; it was ^Matheson who began Sjjtaking of it last
night. Angus M'Kay (another brother) once tied a leaf of
a Bible in the net, and the conjuror presently declared he
could do nothing till it was taken away !

'John M'Kay and jSIatheson both vouched for the foUow-

S'2

INDIAN KL1K)\V TO

I'liAr. vit.

"fit

ing story. Two Itcd liivi-r iiicii of llicir iicqiinintanoc! (\vlio.st>
iiainos they mcniioiUHl) lu'iit iiii Indiiiu lor stciiliiij,' thoir
clothes. A diiy or two uf'torwards tin; iiicii lioth W(!ut niviiij;
niiid ; tlioy spoko coiiHtiintly of tlu! Iiulian, tlicy ev(Mi told
where he "would be I'ouiid when ]»(!o|)le were seiitto ii]>j)reh('iid
him, ami sure enough hv. was discovered hidden in tliat very
place. These two men have been subject to similar attacks
ever since, and cannot stand tlie least droj* of strong liiiuor.
The charm is said to be wrought by conjuring with a lock of
the victim's hair.

]\l'Kay told me that an uncle of his had a wonderful
power of seeing what took place at a distance — second-sight
in fact. He did not dream, but sat ra])t in meditation, and
then told what he saw. He constantly directed the hunters
to wlun-e the liull'alo were to be found. On one occasion a man
(whose name was mentioned) had half Ids gunlock blown off,
when firing at a cow. Assisted by his friends, he searched
for it everywhere, but in vain. Next niorning the seer said
to him — ' Th(! lock is about ten yards from where the cow
fell. It is close to a badger heap, and you will see it glitter
in tiie sun as .soon as you get near.' Believing in his powers,
they went, though tlie distance was long, and all happened as
he had declared it to them.

' Once some horses were lost. He told the owners to go to
a valley near Scratching L'iver, where they would find a cer-
tain munber of their animals. They went ; all was as he had
said. This seer's power suddenly left him a few^ years ago.

' There is a well-known hunter at (name mentioned),

said to be a very good, religious man, and he solenndy vouches
for the truth of the following story. He was one of the best
shots in the country, and was owner of a particularly good
gun. One day an Indian came in, took up the gun, looked

rilAV. VII.

(MIOSSINC! OF SOUTH I'.UAN'CH.

lit the lock, Imndlcd it a little, and tlioii walked away. The
hunter went out huntinf» a.s usual, to lii.s .surprise he could hit
nothing. He cleaned and examined his gnu ; — it seemed all
right, and shot perfectly at a mark, hut again and again ho
found that he mis,sed every living creature with it, though
with other guns he shot with all his former skill. Some time
afterwards the Indian returned. The hunter told him what
had happened. 'Oh,' said the Indian, 'give mo your gun.

cer-
had

t i,

EIKAI) ol' A CAllKKH,

I will make it shoot for you again.' So saying, he took it
up, handled it a little, and returned it to its owner. Thence-
forth the hunter could kill game with it as well as ever.'

During our march this morning I rode a good way into the
plain, leaving the carts on the track, and on rejoining them

ii:;

ti^

INDIAN ELBOW TO

CIIAP. VII.

whoro tlioy luul Imlti'd noar tlio river, I found that M'Kay
had just wounded a lar^'o cahroo buck. It had run some dis-
tance, hut I followed on till a lucky chance occurred and
enabled nie to finish it. As the head was very fine, I had it
prepared for stutling.*

After this, wo saw a buffalo bull lying at the foot of a
sand-hill, his huge brown body looking strangely sond)ro in
its contrast with the pale yellowish bank immediately behind
it. I hastened to nioinit the IJichon, M'Kay mounted the
impetuous Black, and, managing to get near the bull before
he observed us, wo soon pressed him hard, though he ran
exceedingly well. Finding we had the speed of him, he
suddenly faced in my direction, and made a half charge, as if
doubtful whether to fight or fly. 1 shot at his shoulder but
mis.sed him, then on he came — with no want of ])urpose this
time. I waited till ho got within ten yards, then turning in
the saddle I fired my other barrel, — a second failure, for at
that moment tin; experienced old Biclion made a (piick side-
leap to avoid the horns of the bull, which all but grazed
us as he passed, — onward he went, and never looked back
at nie, but rushed savag(dy at ^I'Kay who had now just
()j)ened u])on his view. With ready movement IVI'Kay
drew his horse out of danger's way, and tried for a flank
shot, — snap ! his gun mi.s.ses fire ; the bull, however, made
no further attack, but went off as hard as ever he could
gallop.

By this time my rifle was reloaded ; I followed the fugi-
tive, and soon got abreast of him. Again I mi.ssed — or at

* Tlip Imins inonsurc 14^ inolios in oxtivnie Icnffth, following the curvp.
The lenjfth from root of iiorn to (livertjence of npper part from triangular snag
is 5i inches. The distance from point to jioint of horn is 8,J inches ; from
point to ])oint of snag, 12^. Width between roots of horns, from 3 to 3.J inches,

vu.

CII.VI'. VM.

CROSSING OF SOUTH BUANOH.

least did not kill; ho wtia hit, porhai)a, but bullct-holos ani
iiivisibh; lu Ilu3 thick wool about a buffalo's nock and shoul-
ders : however, liit or miss, for sonio good reason Ik^ presently
stopped, ami stood niotioidess. I rod(! close up to him, took
steady aim, and shot him tin-ougli the heart.

'I do 11 ( think a buffalo bull near so tenible-lcjoking as
a conmion bull, nor does he seem to bo very rapid in his
movements :' — so runs my journal, but 1 bclievo that I was
underrating the power and speed of the buffalo, being deceived
by the lumbering awkwardness of his action, and tho grotesque
wildness of his appearance. There was certainly one very
critical moment in the adventure just recorded, nothing but
Bichon's readiness having saved mo from a possibly fatal
overthrow.

Immediately after this another old bull presented himself,
and, thinking that a liitlo sport would please the men, I
offered to let any one run it who felt that way inclined.
They settled that Duncan, being a stranger, should have the
first chance, so I lent him Bichon, with my gun and saddle,
and M'Kay and he set off together. When they approached
closely the buffalo charged with some savageness, and Duncan
was unable to get a proper shot ; however, they drove it
nearly np to the camp, when several bullets being put into
it, it fell dead, and its carcase rolled into the river. It proved
to be the best bull yet killed, though very far from fat.

All this time I was having a severe chase after a wolf,
which I pursued on foot, while !M'Beath, riding slow little
Nez-blanc, endeavoured to cut it off and force it to go in my
direction. Being a lame and sickly animal it was soon over-
taken by the pony, but nothing would induce it to turn,
regardless of shouts, and lashings from a heavy whip, it
obstinately headed towards the plains. I followed at a good

t 1!

INDIAN ELBOW TO

CHAP. VII.

<ii

hi i

run, but its pace was a little faster than mine, — I could no
more overtake it than M'Beath conkl make it change its
course. After running a mile I grew very hot and weary,
for the sun was powerful and the chase up-hill, so, pausing
for a moment to draw breath, 1 chanced two long shots at
the fugitive, and luckily broke one of its hind-legs, which
I'ointer, who had been keeping his distance, no sooner
observed than he valoronsly ran in and bit at the wounded
animal's haunches, just as he had done to poor Hector when
in his dying agony. After this the wolf was quitkly finished.
It was a female of the large wliite variety, but extremely
thin and wasted from some injury or disease.

Feeling tired after the chase, T put on i swimming-belt
and refreshed myself with a biithe in the turbid liver ;
but I took care not to venture far from land, for the current
was tremendously strong and rapid, and the belt helj)ed
much less than I had expected. The Saskatchewan, which
was in a very flooded state, seemed to me to measure about
six hundred yards across. Two or three flat sandy islands
just showed their heads above the rush of the stream.
The banks at that part were comi)arutively low, and sloped
gradually from the prairie till within some fifty feet of the
water, whcni a steep pitch intervened.

The whole place abounded with the berries we had been
feasting on during the last week. ' They grow on a willow-
like busli, and taste like geans or wild cherries, but sweeter.
In size they resemble common white currants, and are of a
purple colour. IM'Kay calls them Shad (J Shade) berries ;
the Indian na!ue is ^Nleesasskootoom-meena.'*

All this evening we were Ici.sy wiLli jireparations forcross-

* AlllflMiirliiiT < 'alliiilcll.sis. MiS(i.-i/,ii/<iiiiiiiH' A'lVi'!.. lllSK, t',1,1. Ej\
A'.'/'., viil. i, |i, :J7;J. .Arniiiii oxiiiiM. Mrimtusoio/miiii-iiiciiKi - L'lw)^. "Tliis

VII.

ClIAl". VII.

CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH.

no
its

iiiff the river. * The men worked at frames for two flat-
bottomed canoes. They placed six stakes in the ground to
mark out the shape, and round these (which they afterwards
removed) they made an open frame of light wood, with ribs
still lighter. The whole was tied together with bark or
leather thongs, then an oil-cloth was stretched over [and
securely fastened at the gunwale.*] The Indians use pre-
pared skins to cover tlie outside,'

Duncan and I tried our hand at bait-fishing, but we soon
gave it up, for we could catch nothing but some soft-looking
little fish of a kind considered hardly fit to eat. [I believe
that these fish were "suckers" {Catastomus Huchonms, —
Grey Suclxr, Carpc Blanche ; Kamaypecth — Cree Indians), a
species of carp of which four varieties appear to frequent
the Saskatchewan, the whole of them stated by l)r. Eichard-
sou to be little " esteemed as articles of food, being soft and
watery when boiled." According to the same authority, the
average length of the grey sucker is eighteen inches.

Unfortunately I made but small inquiry as to the fishing

iiboumls on the s.andy plains of tlie Suskatehcwan. Its wood, named by
the Crees Mccsassquat-ahtkk, is prizcnl for making arrows or pipe-stems, and
is thence termed hj' tlie Canadian voyngeurs bois-de-fiechc. Its berries, abont
the .size of a ])ea, are the line.st fruit in the country, and are used by the Crees
. . . both in a fresh and dried state. Tiiey form a plea.sant addition to
remmicav, and make excellent puddings, very little inferior to plum-pudding."
— HooKEU, I'Yor. Bar. -Am., vol. i. p. 202.

* Catlin makes mention of somewhat similar canoes as in use among the
Mandans of the Upper Mi.ssonri. " The skin canoe " ["more familiarly called
in this country a bull-boat " — Vol. i. p. 1!)5.] ... is made almost round
like a tub, by straining a buffaloe's skin over a frame of wicker-work, made
of willow or other boughs. . . . These canoes are made in tlie form of the
U'clsit, coracle, . . . wliich is a very curious circumstance, inasmuch as they
are found in the heart of the great wilderness of America, wliere all the other
surrounding tribes construct their canoes in decidedly ditfereut forms, and of
ditl'erent materials." — Cam, IN, Nodit Ant. lutUdn.i, vol. ii. p. l:j8.

INDIAN ELBOW.

CJIAP. VII.

m It

capabilities of the Saskatchewan streams, and my own party
only tested their resources on one other occasion, — I refer to the
capture of some fine trout (October 1st) in the Bow Eiver,
the principal head-water of the South Branch. On consulting
Dr. Eichardson's treatise, I do not find that any salmon exist
in the Saskatchewan, whose generally turbid water would
appear but little suitable for them, — the fish more or less
directly indicated by him as its inhabitants being : — The
Sterlet or Sturgeon, the Barbot, the Sucker, the Hudson's
Bay Perch or Piccarel, the Trout, and the Gold Eye. Besides
these, the Catfish or Barbue, and the I'ike or Jack, are referred
to, — the former as " found sparingly in tlie lakes that flow
into the Saskatchewan ; " the latter as " abundant in every
lake in North America." — (Feanklix, Journey to the Polar
Sea, ann. 1819-22. App. pp. 705-28, — Notices of the Fishes,
by Dr. Bichardson.)

The White Fish {Corcgonns Alius) is also exceedingly
abundant in many lakes of that district, but I have never
lieard of its occurrence in the rivers with which they com-
municate.]

SKIN CANoK KKA.MKS.

•I

>P 1

CHAPTEE VIII.

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO CHERRY BUSH.

JULY 14:th. — * The river crossed this afternoon. All and
everything safe — thank God. Some of the horses nearly
went under, but all got through at last.' [There were great
differences in their modes of swimming ; some of them floating
high in the water, while with others little but the nose
appeared above the surface, and their utmost efforts seemed
scarcely to prevent them from sinking.]

We began by unloading the carts, after which the men
pushed and pulled them through shallows to a half-dry flat,
in ordinary times a long projecting spit of sand but now a
sort of island, a good way distant from the bank of the river.
Thence they were passed to the other side on the oil-skin
scows, which also took all the baggage across in several
separate transits. For my own part, I was quickly and
easily ferried over by Tonia and Matheson, in an unladen
boat.

Indians, we discovered, had lately availed themselves of
this very crossing-place. Close at hand we came upon the
recent traces of an extensive camp. I picked up among the
tent-sites a piece of hard grey stone, not unlike a coarse sort
of agate, also a broken bit of ore, both of which seemed to
have been used for some particular purpose. Fragments of
marble and red agate were scattered here and there on the

.,^.:

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO

CHAV. VIII.

rivev-banks. Wild strawbtu'iies, in full ripeness, grew j)leuti-
fully near our encampment. Small and deficient in flavour,
though pleasant to the taste, they much resembled the variety
so connuon in the woodlands of Euroj)e.

July 15th. — We continued our march in a westerly
direction, and after some twelve niiles over a country of
dried-up swamps and sandhills, we arrived at a brackish lake
about five miles long and of a shnilar breadth. Its name, if
it had one, was unknown, this road being little frequented ;
even Nunime had never travelled by the line we were fol-
lowing, though he had been on hunting expeditions in the
neighbouring country.

The bulldogs were swarming all around. I killed fifty as
a sort of sacrifice while Toma was cooking my dinner, and
might easily have doubled the number had I been so inclined.
]iut it was impossible to clear the tent of such thronging
legions, besides they were unpleasant to crush, owing to the
stickiness that exuded from tlu;ir large fleshy bodies.

After dinner we marched some ten nules fai'ther till we
came to a branch of Eagle Creek,* where we halted, as the
stream was deci) and miry, and more than twenty yards
across.

While camping went on, I rode a mile or two into the
))lain in .search of cabrees. A small herd coming in view,
I dismounted to look at them, u])on which Morgan took
advantage of a moment's freedom, while I was handling my
telescope, and galloped stniiglit to the other horses, leaving
me a hot and weary walk home.

' This is the greatest trouble one has, — all the horses are

They are always looking

so unwilling to l.'avo one anotlier

* So lit least Niiiiiiiii' tiTiiicd it, luit I Iiavi
in this iiiid otlicr similar iiistaiui's.

iiiv ildiilits MS to Ills aci'iiracv

VIII.

CIIAI'. Vlll.

CHERRY BUSH.

)0:

tlu

»^'

r5:

back and creeping when you are forward, they edge in towards
the carts if you are at one side, and they pull and go at a jog-
trot if you stay behind. Then they neigh constantly, dis-
turbing game, and in short drive one mad. Vermont is
worst, but ]>ichon is very bad too. He is nearly cured of
neighing now. One cannot stand much provocation here.
Al"ter travelling hours under a burning sun, tormented by
Hies, batlied in sweat, and i)arched with thirst, unreasonable
conduct on the part of one's horse makes one hardly an
accountable being.'

Jidi/ lijth. — Tliis morning brought us the good news that
a vast herd of buifalo were close at hand.* We hastened to
cross the creek, and passed through it with no accident worth
mentioning ; this accomplished, we began to make arrange-
ments for a hunt on the largest scale within our power.
Limited by the number of our buffalo- runners, only three of us
were to be on horseback. The Bichon was, as usual, my own
choice ; M'Kay, on Wawpooss, was to keep near me for a
while, and initiate me into the sport ; ohl Numme, at his own
particular request, was to ride Black, that most unruly of
animals. For the sake of qiuck loading I took a smooth-
bore instead of my rifle, by which I also gained the advantage
of a larger bore.

* " 15os Aiiiericamis. American Bison. Buffalo — Hudson's Bay Tratlois.

Moos/oosh — Cree Indians "The Bison, wl)pn full grown, is said to attain

at times a Aveight of two thousand pounds ; but 12 or 14 cwt. is generally
coiiisidei'ed a full size in the fur-countries. Its length, exclusive of tho tail, is
about eight feet ami a half ; its height at the fore tj[uarters upwards of six
feet, ami the length of its tail is twenty inches." — IticiiAitDsox, Faun. Bar.-
Am., vol. i. pp. 270, 283. " Tiie bull'alo bull often grows to the enormous
weight of 2000 pounds." — Cati-in, A'lirth Am. Ltd., vol. i. p. 247. It is
possible that the bvitl'alo on the siiuth (if the .Missouri, where Catlin hunted,
may average a greater .-size than tiinse ronuiing farther north in the Saskat-
ihcwan districts.

mmmmmtf^

'f;!

f- i:

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO

(•IIAP. VIII.

We soon sighted the buffaloes. They were on a dry
prairie, slightly undulated in character, here and there hilly,
and bounded by higher ranges to the west and towards the
north. Immense herds were stringing across the whole face of
the country. The deep rolling voice of the mighty multitude
came grandly on the air like the booming of a distant ocean.

As we got nearer the herd we could see that a large pro-
portion were bulls. They were drawn up in close array ;
some colossal old fellows stalked about by themselves at the
flanks of the columns. The cows were mostly wedged np in
the front and centre, wliile the van kept slowly moving on.

When within two hundred yards or so we dashed forward ;
they quickened their pace, but kept their order ; we got pretty
close to them, the column broke, and the buffaloes cantered
off in many separate bands.

Choosing out a small drove of fine-looking cows, INI'Kay
and I galloped towards them side by side as hard as ever we
could go. The harder we pressed the swifter they ran ; they
went magnificently, far faster than the bulls ; we tried our
utmost for a good mile, but could not overtake them.

Presently ^I'Kay cried out that Wawpooss was done, —
poor beast, he was still weak from an attack of illness some
days before. There was no time for questions ; putting spurs
into the Bichon's yellow sides, I sailed away after the
cows. On we went, — the heat intense, the dust perfectly
blinding. Pulling hard, straining every nerve, Biclion drew
nearer and nearer, his laziness quite forgotten in the excite-
ment of the cliase, but not for a moment could we get along-
side. He began to flag, — it was a case of now or never. I stood
in the stirrups and leant over his head, held my gun forward
at arm's length, took the level of the cows, and fired into the
heaving mass where the best ones seemed to be. To my joy

:!! f

CHAP. VIII.

CHERRY BUSH.

one of them instantly stopped ; the others ruslied madly on
their course, but she crawled slowly along, her bowels pro-
truding from a great wound in her flank torn by the bullet
of my No. 12.

Giving her a finishing shot, I halted a moment and con-
sidered what ne.xt to do. Of my two chief objects one was
now attained : I had killed a fine cow for eating purposes —
the bulls at this season being iinfit for food. My other object
was to get a large and perfectly unblemished head to carry
home as a trophy; such heads, however, were not easily
procurable, especially in that particular district, where the
ground is so stony that the old bulls more than usually
destroy their horns when rooting up the eartli.*

All this time bands of buffalo were streaming past me ;
the plains were alive as far as the eye could reacli. While
debating whether or not to go on, I suddenly observed in one
of the passing herds the very specimen I souglit for, — ' an
exceedingly fine, sleek, round-barrelled bull, not so large
as some of the patriarchs, but with very long, perfect horns,
and most luxuriant mane and beard.' Hailing this welcome
sight, I marked the noble animal for a prey : I remounted in
haste, and again stirred uj) old Bichon, who, greatly refreshed
by the halt, w^ent on as gallantly as before.

Never did bull run more fast and strong. For two miles
or more I stuck to him, but by no means could I get within
fair shooting-distance. [It was interesting to ride in the
midst of that vast black mass of buffaloes, for, as I went
on, the scattered bands seemed more and more to unite, and
I sometimes found myself moving in a sort of triangled en-
closure with living walls around me, as the nearer animals
strove to edge away on either hand, while the ranks were

* See foot-note, page 96.

'•mmmmmii

1 1'i

>^'

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO

tllAl'. VIII.

closed in front, and over-increasing nunilun-s cunie thundering
in the rear. As long as Uiclion kept his footing there was
little risk ; the hull'alo were thinking only of escape, the
crowd Wiis not dangerously large or dense, and there was
plenty of room, for I was still on a gently undulating jdain,]
At last my bull begjin to slackcm his pace. ]»y what
strange instinct did he know that I had chosen him for my
own? — the same band was still together, his companions
were all with him, not one had yet (piitted their ranks, yet
with a sudden movement he sprang out from among them,
and broke away by himself, rushing off at right angles
through an opening in the crowd, and seeming to gather
fresh speed us he ran on his separate career.

It was but for a while ; he abrui)tly checked himself,
faced round, and stood at bay. I closed on him, trying for
a Hank shot ; — down went his head, onward he came in full
charge. Knowing the uselessness of firing at a bull'alo's fore-
head, I cantered out of his way ; he followed me a few yards,
then turned and resumed his course.

Another mile — again he slackened, breaking into a trot as
he drew near to the top of a gently slopiug rise, and tl»ere
he took uj) his .stand and once more came to bay. I approached
till but a few yards were between me and him, — then up
went his tail in sign of battle, down went his head for a
charge ; but this time I was too quick, the Bichon had
slipped round him, and before he couhl make one step, T sent
a bullet through his heart He stopped, staggered a few
paces, then fell to rise no more.

Igototfthe panting pony, and took a long look at my
bull, feasting n»y eyes on his nol)le proportions as he lay life-
less on tlie crisp l)rown turf of that utterly deserted plain ;
then r(MiK»utiting, I began to make my way slowly honie-

( IIAl'. VIII.

CIIEUUV BUSH.

wards, — thirsty in tlio oxtroino, aftor all tlio licat and dust
of the gallo)), but with no hoi^i^ of watnr till most of tho
distance had been retraced. On coming '-^ the cow I had
previously killed I found J^unnnu standing jeside her: he
had sliot nothing, for lUack had proved hiniself (piito nn-
ninnagoablo. Preparing to leave the place, he laid his saddle
on the cow's body to scare away tho wolves after our de-
])arture ; then, on my offer to stay with the horses, he set olf
alone in search of carts to carry in the meat or the troi)hies
of the two slain butlaloes.

Growing tired of waiting, I followed in the same direction,
and on presently coming in sight of the old hunter, a most
anuising scene burst n])on my view. Ho was stalking a
young bull which had remained in a grassy hollow after the
departure of the rest of the herd, — ISI'Kay, or one of the other
men, having crippled it by a shot somewhere pretty close
to the shoulder. Hi»l in the long herbage, Nunime had
crept to "within thirty yards of the wonnded animal, and
was now proceeding to open against it a sort of masked
battery. Three times the report resounded, three times I saw
the smoke curl upwards, but it always rose from a new place
as the wary old man shifted his quarters, while the buffalo,
mad with rage, leaped round and round, vainly trying to dis-
cover the aggressor. Not one of these balls had struck it, for
Numme, though reputed a good shot, was just now using the
wonderful gun that had been straightened in the cart-wheel
at Qu'appelle : — the sport seemed likely to be dangerous as
well as tedious, for the buffalo was (piite active enough for
mischief, so I thought it better to ride in and finish matters
with a rifle-bullet.

By this time Kline had brought one of the carts, and
JM'Kay coming also, the former remained to cut up the cow,

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO

CHAP. VIII.

Ill

i-i

.'■ ]

I ' 'I!

wliicli was ill tolonibly fat cdiulition, while the latter rode ofl'
with me in searcli of my bull, tlio cart following soon after-
wanls. We had much trouble to find this bufliilo, for the
run had been a long one, and towards the end over a rather
broken country, but at last our search proved successful.
M'Kay was snrprised at the goodness of the horns ; such
fine ones, he assured me, were very seldom met with.*
The head weighed heavily, as we found on lifting it into
the cart after its separation froni the carcase : we left
that to the wolves aud ravens, for it was too coarse and
tough for human food.

A thunderstorm came on, but we esca])ed with a slight
wetting, being near camp when it began : it only lasted two
hours, and then the sun came glowing out witli all its former
intensity.

As 1 sat after dinner smoking at my tent-door, an old bull
suddenly made his appearance, on which several of the men
snatched up their guns and ran out into the plain to take a
shot at liim. I gave my ritie to Toma, who was starting with
the rest, and the others allowing him first chance, he made
two excellent shots, putting b(,fch bullets sidendidly in at

* Tlie lioriis mfastirt' 13 iiu'lu's in lciit,'tli, iiiul 8.1 in (.•ircmiif'.'n'nce at the;
base, ami the (li.staiK'c from point to point is 17 iiii:hc.s. The points are sharp
anil ab.sohitely perfect, which makes the merit of tin; head, for stronger (tliough
not longer) liorns, more or less damaged at the tips, are eommoii eiiougli
everywhere. In no ca.se, liowever, are the luiriis of tlus v.iriety of tlie Iiison
of very mndi greater size than tliose of the specimen lefcrred to.

In Catlin'.s (leserii)tion of the formation of the large circular holes known
as " wallow.s," in which the Imd'alo cool them.selvcs in hot weather, he
mentions a fact jiartly explanatory of tin; broken condition of the horns of tin;
older bnlls. Into some spot where the earth .seiMns damp, " the cnormons
bnll, lowered upon one knee, will plunge his liorns and at last his head,
driving up the eurtii, and soon making an excavation in the ground, into
which the water filters from amongst the gi'ass, forming for him, in a few

HKAI* OF A nil'l'AI.O I'.ULL. (Scop </..

m
1-1

mmmmmJb ,

li,

1 •

iltAl*. VIII.

CIIEKIIY RUSK.

140 paces. Tliis clicckcil the bull, and the othor men
running up poiircd a volley into it close at hand ; but, fur
from dropping, it continued to move on, though crii)pled with
a broken foreleg — a thing uiowt di.sabling to a buffah), owing
to the weight of his immense fore (piarters. Intending to
reload, my men now discovered that in their hurry they had
taken no ammunition. I saw what was happening, and
came out with one of the smooth-bores to assist them.

Going pretty near the bull, I fired two shots, aiming just
behind his shoulder ; both went rather high, but either
should have brought him down ; still he stood as finnly as
before. Some one then said, " Try him in the flank : " I
did not believe it would answer, but I tried it, with no
result, however, but to make the horrid scene still more dis-
gusting to me. Next time I went quite close to him, and
aimed very carefully at his heart. No other shot was needed ;
over he rolled, and expired without a struggle or a groan.

This was an instance of the well-known fact that when
an animal does not immediately drop to a body-shot in the
regions of the heart, he will bear bullet after bullet without

1 i

inoiiuMits, ii cool aiul conifoitiibk' liatli, into which he jihingcs like a hog in
his inirc. In this (leleotiihle liiver ho throws himself Hat upon his side, iin<l
forcing himself violently urounil ... he ploiighs up the ground by his
rotary motion, sinking himself deeper and deeper in the ground. ... It
is generally the leader of the herd that takes upon him to make this excava-
tion . . . having cooled his sides ... he stands in the pool till
inclinction induces him to step out and give jdace to tlie next in command
. . . until the -whole herd will pass through in turn ; each one throwing
his body around in a similar manner." — Catmn, Norlh Am. Ivd., vol. i. pp.
249, 250.

It is easy to see that the larger and stronger bulls must soon destroy the
sharpness of their horns when beginning these excavations, esjucially where
the soil is of a stony nature not merely on the elevated ground but even in
the damper hollows.

^Mi^

1)8

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO

CIIAl'. VIII.

m If

U1<

•;->

flinching (»r sinking, nntil the very brain or heart is pene-
trated. Perhaps when the first shock fails to prostrate the
nerves it only serves to dull them, producing insensibility to
every succeeding shock that does not actually ruin one of the
vital organs.

No fewer than fourteen bullets had pierced this buffalo.
Toma's rifle-balls had both struck him among the front ribs,
and were lodged close together under the skin of his flank
far back on the opposite side. They had not touched a
bone, and were so perfect that I loaded with them again.
The bull proved to be in capital condition, with plenty of
fat, which came in usefully, as we were much in want of
grease at that particular time. Altogether we had killed six
buffaloes in course of the day. Besides the two killed by
myself, there were — the bull just mentioned, another stalked
and shot by M'Kuy after taking Wawpooss home, another
killed by Short, and the young one that Numme had per-
secuted. It would have been easy to kill K far larger number
had there been any object in doing so.

M'Kay congratulated me on shooting such a good cow,
besides getting so fine-headed a bull, at my very first attempt
with the great herd, left as I had been entirely to my own
resources. Nevertheless, I was far from pleased with myself,
and thus did I record my feelings — ' I find myself awkward
in managing a gun on a galloping horse. I do not succeed
well in urging my horse close to a buffalo, and shooting it
at the gallop. I can kill the buffaloes I want in my own
way, but I wish to do it in the best way. Ought I to
content myself Avith success in my own fashion, or should 1
aim at perfection? — the latter, I think.'

Sunday, July Vlth. — We were camped in a hollow beside
a deep narrow lake about half-a-mile long, with low hills

:.-l:

%/■

riiAi'. VIII.

CHERRY BUSH.

iiuiiiediately behind us that gvadusilly raised themselves into
a higher range. At dinner time our camp was surprised by
a very alarming invasion. We were in our tents, thinking of
nothing less than any disturbance ; the most perfect quiet
prevailed. In an instant, without the slightest warning, a
storm of noise burst upon us, — bells jingled, whips cracked,
— the tramp of galloping horses resounded close at hand. I
leapt up to seize my rille, — it was not there ; I hastened
out to my men, and found them equally defenceless, for all
guns had been laid aside on account of the Sunday rest.
A strange and unwel^'ome sight greeted oui' astonished eyes.
Widely apart, extended in a semicircle which completely
hemmed us in, a number of armed and mostly naked war-
riors were rushing down the slope, urging their horses to
furious speed with whip and heel. "The Blackfeet!" said
my men, and we prepared for the worst. The invaders were
almost upon us, a few yards only lay between us and them,
when suddenly they checked their speed, stared at us for a
moment, then trotted peacefully up with smiling faces, offer-
ing the most friendly greetings, which my men heartily re-
ciprocated.

The mystery was soon explained. Oar visitors were a
party of Cree Indians and half-breeds from Fort Carlton, who
were camping on the other side of the range, under the
leadership of a hunter named Tait. One of their men, it
appeared, while going back for a broken cart, had noticed a
couple of our horses which had strayed to the top of a neigh-
bouring hill. Supposing us to be Blackfeet, with whom the
Crees were just going to war, they planned to surprise us, — and
so indeed they did. Each man had his mouth full of bullets,
ready for action, and most of them were nearly stark naked;
everything had l)L'on skilfully planned, some of the number

ill

mu,

100

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO

CHAP. VIII.

: t

had been expressly told off to drive away our horses. They
would have shown no mercy, I was informed, to a Blackfoot
party : so at least it was said at the time ; Tait, however,
afterwards assured me that he had ordered his men not to
shoot even Blackfeet, unless positively obliged.

There was clearly something wrong in our arrangements.
If these Carlton people had been enemies, not one of us
could have escaped ; even had they spared our lives they
would have carried off all our horses. Had they come by
night we should have been ready for them, two watchers
being always posted during the hours of darkness ; after
sunrise, however, the whole camp slept unguarded, ofl'ering a
too easy chance to any lurking horse-thieves. Some change
was so evidently required that, much as I disliked interfering
with his management of the party, I called M'Kay to a con-
sultation, and it was settled between us that henceforth
the horses were to be watched incessantly, not merely by
night but by day.

If onlv for one reason, Tait's coming mi"ht well be counted
fortunate, Tln'ough him we learned that both at Fort Titt
and Fort Edmonton the inhabitants were nearly starving, as
the buffalo were far distant, and the Blackfeet, afraid of the
Crees, with whom they had just begun hostilities, were not
bringing in meat according to their usual custom. Had we
gone directly to Fort Pitt, as I had of late been planning, we
should have been iniable to get supplies to carry us to the
Eocky ]Mountains, and our stock of pennnican having run
short, tlie journey would almost certainly have come to an
untimely conclusion.

I now decided to go and camp near Tait, hunt buffalo
in that neighbourliood, and emjtloy the women who accom-
panied his jifirty to dry a large store of meat for our pur-

■•^^^u

ciiAi'. vni.

CHERRY BUSH.

101

poses. This suited me in another respect, for it brought us
nearer to a hill that was reported to abound with grisly
bears, a few of which I confidently hoped to secure.

Our camp was surrounded by dozens of wolves devouring
tlib remains of the buffaloes. Some one suddenly proposing
to give them a fright, we all joined in the fun, and sallied
forth armed with whatever came handiest, I with the swingle-
tree of the waggon, Duncan with a long stick, M'Kay with a
log of wood, M'Beath with the tent-pin mallet ; then spread-
ing out crescent-ways, we ran down the bank of the lake,
trying to force the wolves to meet us, or else to betake them-
selves to the water.

Away we rush under the clear moonlight, the pace terrific,
M'Kay leading ; M'Beath steps into a hole, and measures his
long length on the ground ; some fall over him, others keej)
their course, bounding down the slope with shouts and tre-
mendous peals of laughter.

The wolves managed to slip through our ranks, but they
had a very narrow escape. All night long Short amused
himself by chasing them with a hatchet, which he hurled
most vigorously at such as came within distance : he did no
execution that time, however, though a most splendid shot
with every sort of missile. He was a wonderfully active
young fellow, surpassed by few in feats of skill and clever-
ness. * After Tait left us the men began to play at a certain
game, in which, the players being blindfolded and playing
in turn, the object was to be the first to break with an axe a
marrow-bone laid on the grass three paces off, — the breaker
of the bone to get its contents for his own benefit. Several
attempts having been made all round. Short finally proved
the successful competitor. He had cunningly taken off his
moccasins, then groped about with his feet till he found a tuft

wmmm

102

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO

cuAi'. vni.

of grass that he know to be near the marrow-bone, thus dis-
covering the riglit direction for the winning effort.

This morning IM'Kay came upon a sleeping wolf, and hit it
so violently on the ribs with a heavy stone, that the wretched
creature rolled over as if dead, and blood spurted from its
jaws. It summoned up strength, however, to scramble to its
feet, and ran off in time to escape a second visitation.

July l^th. — The buffaloes were still all round us in scat-
tered bands, so after breakfast I shouldered my rifle, and
walked a mile or two alone into the prairie in hopes of shoot-
ing another fat cow. The only herd I could at all approach
was feeding in the open plain, but a slighi; undulation en-
abled me to get within 150 yards ; nearer I could not go,
being already just on the edge of the wind. The cows un-
luckily were at the farther side, a good fifty paces beyond
the bulls ; still I thought it possible to kill one, but before I
had got fair aim they took the alarm and began to move off,
upon wliich I rather too hastily fired both barrels at the
slowly-retreating animals. There was no apparent result ;
and then I found myself in a difficulty, for the old bulls,
instead of moving off too, remained on the spot, bellowing,
]>awing the ground, and looking fiercc^ly about them. I could
not load while stretched flat on the turf; if I raised myself
in the least, I came into view ; if I lay still, I was equally
sure to be discovered, owing to a shift in the wind, which now
blew towards thenj. After a moment's thought I resolved to
load at all hazards ; so, laying everything ready, I raised
myself and load(>(l as (piickly as possible. The buffaloes
must, have, seen nic, but none of them showed symptoms of
rliarging, and, as nothing more oould \n\ done with the cows,
I was glad to leave the bulls without further disturbance.
Tln'v were savnge and dangerous at that season, but, from

CHAP. VIII.

CHERRY BUSH.

103

wliat I afterwards heard, I doubt if they ever attack unless
very closely approached or driven to bay.*

While coining home I saw an old wolf a long way olf, and
saluted him with both barrels. One bullet passed close to
his tail, if it did not actually graze it, evidently to his great
astonishment, for he doubtless thought himself safe at such a
distance, having no experience of guns that were dangerous
at two or three hundred yards.

On my return we struck tents and made a move for Tait's
encampment, which was situated at a place called Cherry
]>ush, nine or ten miles away towards the other side of tlio
range. As we marched over a shoulder of these liills, — the
" Eoasting Hills" by name, — we passed by many bands of
buffalo, but would not disturb them for fear of spoiling Tait's
hunting arrangements.

A badger was foolish enougli to show itself in the open
plain : as a matter of course, all the men immediately pur-
sued it. Short, as usual, among the foremost, leaping round
and round, pelting it with pieces of dry buffalo dung, and
out of some half-dozen shots never once failing to hit its
pointed nose. Kline at last ran in and slew the badger with
a long stick, — a needless act unfortuiuitely, for the poor harm-
less animal proved to be much too thin for eating.

Two or three cows then caine past. As they wei'e so
close that we could not interfere with Tait by following
them, !M'Kay started to run thom on IJlack, whom he hap-
pened to be riding ; I started also, though only mounted on
Morgan, who was not then rockoued among our butfalo-run-

* " In tlif nittiiif; season tlu' iiiuU's ti^lit against each otlicr with great
fury, anil at that period it is very dangerous to approach them. The bison is,
however, in general, a sliy animal, ami takes to tlight instantly on winding an
enemy. ... It is dangerous lor the lumter to show himself after having
wounded one." — HR'HAltl).soN, Faun. lior.-Ain., vol. i. [>. 291.

ttWWHfcJp

104

SOUTH SASKA.TCHEWAN TO

CHAP. vni.

:^i

, 1 , -j

ijii

ncrs. Suddenly Black's girthing got unloosed, and the saddle
slipping back, he began to kick so violently that M'Kay was
obliged to jump off without delay. On seeing this I halted,
knowing that Black would go nearly mad if another horse
passed him, so the cows went away unmolested.

This happened near Tait's camp. Meanwhile a half-breed,
who had a wonderful power — magical, some thought it —
of guiding buflalo in any direction that he pleased, was driv-
ing, or rather leading, a great band of bulls and cows to the
very tents, and the runners had just begun to set out in
pursuit.

On our amval at Cherry Bush, we camped upon a sandy
hillock near a small swampy pool, about a quarter of a mile
from the Carlton encampment. Several of the hunters pre-
sently came to see us. Tait himself paid me a special visit,
accompanied by liis eldest daughter, a very pretty child of
some six years old, — a charming little girl, whose bright black
eyes and pleasant smiles seemed to bring sunbeams with them
to my solitary tent.

After dinner a large band of buffalo appeared from over
the hill. We prepared to run them. One of the Indians, a
very bold intelligent young man named Naposskes, asked
leave to ride Black, which, being arranged, I set off with him
myself, riding the Biclion, as was now my ordinary custom.

For half-an-liour we had to wait in a hollow till the signal
was given, then we rushed from our concealment, lilack
went I'ight to the front, and Bichca kept well with him so
far, but the old pony was singularly restive and excited all
the while, and for a minute or two I could scarcely get him
to close. Wlien at length alongside, I found great difficulty
in making out tlie cows, us there were very few to be seen
and it was hard to distinguisli tliem from tlie young bulls.

CltAP. VIII.

CHERRY BUSH.

106

As for bulls, one might have shot them right and left by dozens.
At last I got a chance at a cow, but missed her ; — no one, till
he tries it, can fancy how hard it is to shoot a galloping
buffalo from a galloping horse.

The buffaloes were now running round me in every
quarter, the herd for the most part broken into small lots
separated by trifling intervals from one another ; and, having
after some trouble reloaded without stopping the pony, I set
myself to follow a mixed band of cows and bulls, of various
ages. As I came opposite Tait's camp I met the Indian who
had borrowed Black, he laughingly held up two fingers to
show tliat he had killed a pair of cows. He was very clever
at signs. We had previously passed a peculiar-looking skull
with slight and much-curved horns, placed by itself on the
groimd, and no sooner did I notice it, than he made me
understand that this was not the head of a bull, but of an ox
— a variety of somewhat rare occurrence ; that he shot it
himself ; and that it had stood half as high again as a male
of the ordinary description.

Scarce slackening speed while passing Napesskes, I
continued to urge on the Bichon, but his hardest efforts
failed to place me alongside the cows. I then tried two
long shots ; both Avere fruitless ; so I drew rein a little, and
settled my pony into a steady gallop, resolved to follow to
the death.

' How they did run ! After two miles (due west) Bichon
began to gain a little on them ; I urged him, and he nearly
closed. I fired at a fine cow ; she staggered, but went on,
the blood pouring from a wound high in her shoulder. The
shock seemed to sicken her, she slackened ; I pressed on to
give her the other barrel ; Bichon lengtlicned his stride, we
went sailing down a gently sloping hill. We got close to the

Irj

I ■

i'i,(i 4

vi,m- "i\

I'-

• \ -3;^^ :

lOG

SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO

(ilAT. VMI,

COW. I leant forward to give lior tlio fiiiislicr, — crash ! down
canio Biclion on the top of his head.

' My gun flow yards away; I shot through the air and fell
in front of the horse; he rolled over and over, and tlum came
right upon nic in such a nianncr that my left leg, spur upper-
most, was pinned under him, and my head lay between his
hind and fore feet. I expected instant death, but the good
God protected me, and after a minute of terrible suspense I
got clear of the horse's hoofs, and jumped up in time to catch
his bridle as he rose. Had he been a violent beast like lilack,
I must have been killed. As it was, no injury was done to
either man, gun, or horae, except that my elbow got a

trifling cut.

.■/;■': . '■ ■i'-/r;i''0jt'-

' Leaping on Bichon's back, I went on after the cow, but
another mile convinced me I could not catch her, as she was
going as fast as tlie others, and had gained so long a start.
Her well-grown calf was running at her side, as it had done
the ><'hole time. A wolf was following close behind her,
smelling her blood and anticipating a prey, which he is not
likely to get, for the chances are she will recover.

«k

( MAI', viir.

CllEUllY BUSH.

107

' I tlicn turned towards camp, and the provoking Bichon,
who had gone very soberly since his fall, began to pull hard
and neigh. It was fortunate that he was so fond of his home,
for I had great doubts about the position of the camp, and he
encouraged m^ '7 always pulling in what 1 also thought to
be the right dij'ection. He was not wrong. On getting to a
knoll I had been making for, Tait's camp appeared exactly in
front, and I was soon at my own tent-door.'

■* ;'

■\ 1

! i .'

WIWUlH s-A

CHAPTER IX.

CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, FORT CARLTON.

July Idtk. — Wc busied ourselves, tliis excessively hot
morning, in making preparations for a hunt on the range
of liills where grisly bears were reported to be so numerous,
I determined to take only some of my men, as there was
full employment for the rest of the party, during the short
time we were likely to bo absent, in killing buffalo to
increase ou" miser.ibiy scanty store of dried provisions.

It was about 1 o'clock when wa set out. The Bichon
carried mo as usual, Numme rode Nez-blanc, Duncan was
mounted on the Gris. Napesskes, that clover good-looking
In('"an, accompanied us in the capacity of guide. By birth
he was really of .French half-breed origin, but having ahvays
lived with the Indians he completely resembled them in his
looks and habits, and nobody much remembered about his Euro-
pean blood. To honour the occasion he had arrayed himself
in a new coat, — no less than a supei-fine blue cloth siirtout,
with gilt buttons, and a high velvet collar of an anciently
fashionable cut ; but instead of trowsers he wore leather leg-
gings of the Indian pattern, wliich reached but a certain way up
liis limbs, and when the wind blew 1>ack liis coat skirts there
was a strange exhibition of rich mahogany-coloured skin.
His long, straight, black liair was twisted into a quantity of
tails bound round with coils of brass wire. He it was that

ciiAi'. IX. CHERRY BUSH.TIIE BAD HILL, FORT CARLTON. 109

tbe tliiy before had borrowed Black for a run with the biifTalo,
but for this journey he was mounted on quiet little Spot, as
dillereut a sort of steed as one could well imagine. Kline
completed tlio party, driving a lightly-laden cart drawn by
the horse we brought from the White Horse Plains — Blond,
alias ^['Gillis, the handsome and still fat chestnut with the
silky flowing nuine and tail.

For three miles our road ran due west over the country
I had crossed in my latest run ; after that we partly altered
our course and tended more in a southerly direction.

A cabree appeared on the rise of a little hill, and came
forward to stare at us ; I dismounted, and gave him a couple
of shots, killing him with the second at 120 yards. He was
a three-year-old male with but a poor head, not having yet
attained to his full growth.

Before we had gone inucli farther the country entirely
changed in its aspect ; instead of half-dry salt swamps, with
here and there a sandy knoll, we now came to a wide arid
prairie, level in character but rising occasionally into hills of
trifling elevation. Far as the eye could reach these plains
„ere covered with troops of buffalo, thousands and thou-
sands were constantly in sight. I might have shot plenty
of old bulls, but it would have been mere cruel butchery ; and
the cows, as usual, were very hard to approach. I did not
wish to over-tire Bichon by running him, and when one at-
tempts an open advance on foot — concealment on such
ground being impossible — the buffalo always keep sheering
off as soon as you get within 200 yards of the nearest. If
you follow, they merely repeat the move, and always manage
to preserve the same distance. I dismounted, and t'ied
one or two long shots at cows, but without any perce]*tible
result.

i h

¥ \

> <?"

" M

...

Ill 4

' A

III)

C'HEURY IRISH, TIIK HAD IIIM.,

t'M.\r. IX.

Alter ])(4liai>H twenty iiiih.'s' tnivi-llinj,' under the e.\C(^s,siv()
heat of tlio sun, we at len^'tli beheUl, at no great distance l)o-
I'oro us, our destined caniping-))lace — the Had Hill. This
ominous name relates to some great njist(trtune that thero
befell the Crees or Assiuiboines, but the tradition is lost, or
at aiiy rate was unknown to my jieople. U is a range of
hills, or rather one continuous hill, extending about ten miles
in length ; in height it does not exceed a few hundred feet,
and its outline is ])lain and rounded ; it is sconnl by nuiny
deep ravines, for the most part overgrown with ])oj)lars and
thick brushwood, which form a favourite haunt of the grisly
bear.

A fatal accident ha|)])ened at this place about a year be-
fore my visit. Two Indians, while gathering berries on the
hill, were attacked by a grisly who was lying concealed
among the bushes. One man he instantly knocked down,
then seized the other and killed him : meanwhile the first
succeeded in making his esca[)e. The Indians are afraid to
stop in one particular glei;, which is very nmch fre([uented
by these savage bears ; w^e, however, had no hesitation about ,
cami)ing there, as it had the advantage of a remarkably line
spring of water.

Besides the risk of lurking grislies, which did not much
trouble us, there was the far more serious risk of I'lackfoot
war-parties, for this hill lay right in their accustomed path.
If they had come — 'Xapesskes's neat, boat-shaped skull
would have been shorn of its covering, the Crees and lUack-
feet being now at war ; our horses, too, would have been
taken — if nothing worse.'

lietween us and the l>ad Hill, as it first a]>pearedin view,
stretched a flat valley of fine level ]trairie hind, to which we
descended along a gentle .sloite, and after two or three miles'

^ *-JLj;

I MAI'. IX.

i-'oirr cAiM/roN.

Ill

inivcUiiij? arrivi'd iit tlu; Htnmm wliic^h lluws IumumiIIi the hill —
tho Iviglo Creek ii;,'ain, iit that point not lav tVoni where it
takes it8 rise. The water was brackish, Just as it was in the
lower part of its course. Wo crosscnl it easily, and camped
about S I'.M. in the wood}' ravine which lias been already
mentioned.

July 2U</i. — liiHinj,' before daybreak I .set out with
Nuinine an<l Napes.ski!H to look for bears. We rode in an
easterly direction, and ])as8ed throuy;h several glens Avithout
seeinj,' any living creatures, until, in one deep iiairow dell, wo
came .sndtleidy upon a small female deer, — a " roo " my people
called it. She slowly ai>i)roached us, eyeing us with the ]iret-
tiest timidly in«piisitive glances, till on getting very close her
keen no.strils told her a truer talc than her eyes had skill for,
and away she bounded and hid herself in the leafy shades.

We had nearly reached the farthest ravine towards the
hill's north-eastern extremity, when we at last l)eheld some
of the objects of our search : a largo female grisly bear and
her cub walking about in the open, on high bare ground,
not far from the upi)er part of a dense-growing thicket of
brushwood. We inunediately gave chase to cut them oft"
from the covert : they were too quick for us, and made good
their retreat into its deep recesses long before our arrival
within rille-range. On this Numme and I dismounted, and
crossing the little stream that ran along the bottom of the
glen, now inunediately beneath us, we began to ascend the
opposite bank near the thicket where the bears were shelter-
ing. Suddenly Nunnne called out — Shoot ! and on looking
round I saw the large bear sitting up on its haunches, full in
view, but it was not less than 150 yards from the place where
we stood. The light was indifferent, and the large rille in my
hand was quite unfamiliar to mo, having only once been tried

5 *

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112

CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL,

CHAP. IX.

11 ™ I

at all, and never at long range, — I would not attempt the
shot at such a distance ; meanwhile the grisly turned back
into the bush and began to cross the ravine.

We returned to the siile we had come from, and rejoined
Napesskes, who had posted himself at the edge of a bank
that commanded a clear view for some Avay down the descent.
Presently a buffalo bull came rushing out from below, and
Napesskes said that he saw the bear strike it as it passed.
A minute or two afterwards appeared the bear itself. It
stopped on a little knoll right below us and about 100 yards
off, reared itself on its hind legs, and swayed slowly from side
to side, staring at us and trying to get our wind. Quickly
putting aside the heavy rifle, I took my favourite Purdey,
and fired. Tlie first shot missed ; tlie bear turned itself half
round ; before it got its forefeet to the eartli I struck it hard
and fair with the second shot. It nearly fell over, then partly
recovered : we expected it to charge, but with no attempt to
do so, it rushed away into the thickest of the bushes.

At that moment Nuumie (who had gone to the opposite
side) saw a bear running rapidly past, and fired both barrels
of my No. 12 at it, hitting it, as he rather thouglit, with one
ball. We rode across and joined him.

' We were now on a steep bank, with thick underwood
beneath us, and could see the bushes moving to and fro as
the wounded bear writhed and raged in his pain ; we could
also hear its heavy panting, but the beast itself was quite
concealed. Presently we heard it splashing in the water just
below ; then it lay still, and neither shots nor stones could
move it.

* We Mcnt down close to the thicket where it was, and
watched for a long time. Numme said that it was lying liid,
crouchin" in readiness to clutch anv one mIio came M'ithin

C'llAl'. IX.

FORT CARLTON.

113

i'/

reach, and if (as lie supposed) it was a female with a cub, it
would be doubly savage and dangerous. He assured me it
would not do to go into the bush, which, besides being twice
as high as a man, was as d(3nse as a common thorn hedge. I
confess I should have been sorry to go in, but had the hunters
advised doing so, of course I should have gone. Napcsskes after-
wards said that he would have been willing, but that Numme
objected. As the former speaks nothing but Cree, and made
no signs, I could not say what might have been the extent
of his readiness. To go in appeared to me sheer madness.

' We at length determined to leave the place, and return in
the evening, or next morning, by which time the bear would
be dead, or at any rate stiff from its wound ; so we rode back
to camp and breakfasted.

* Afterwards we rode along the whole length of the hill,
exploring all the valleys, but saw nothing except the small
deer which somewhat answer to our " roe." They are called
" Black-tailed Cabrecs " by the Indians, but improperly, for
the cabree is an antelope, and does not shed its horns as this
deer does.*

' There was an extensive view from the top of the hill,
though the day unfortunately was not very clear. The Bad
Hill faces to the north-west. Eunning south-Avest is the long
range called the Boasting Hill, near which Tait was camped.
Between the western extremities of these ranges there lies a
small lake, out of which flows the Eagle Creek. A long
way to the south-east is a larger piece of water called the
Little Devil's Lake. This ]}ad Hill is the farthest point
to M-hich the Crees and Stonies [Assiniboines] ever come, as

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* Ccrvus iiiiic>r(itis — Tlic Jihicl-lnihil J)r,'r,ov .VnJr Dim-, ov Junijn'iig Drcr
. . . . ciiUcil liy till' t'auatliiiii voyagours " c7i('ivt«(7." — Kichaiidson, luiini.
Iioi\-Aiii., vol. i. i>. 'li)\.

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114

CHERKY BUSH, THE BAD HILL,

CUAl'. IX.

there is no wood for an immense distance beyond it, when
journeying in the Blackfoot direction. Captain Blakiston
hunted over the neighbouring plains, but it is believed that
no European (not a resident in the country) has been on
the hill but myself. Arrowsmith's map [1859] is utterly
wrong herealiouts. It places Eagle Hill Creek about forty
miles north-west from its real position.' *

Eeturning in the evening we perceived a few buffalo
feeding on a strip of rugged broken gromid that stretched
along the foot of the hill and formed an intermediate belt
between the higher and lower levels. I went towards them
alone, and had no difficulty in making my stalk, crawling
under cover of a little rocky knoll till I got within range of
the cows that seemed to be in fairest order. I fired at a
rather good one, and hit her low on the flank ; at that in-
stant another shot struck her from the opposite side, the
two reports almost mingling in one. It was Napesskes,
wlio lia/ing gone forward in scarcli of buffalo some while
before, liad, by a strange coincidence, stalked and sliot at the
same cow that I was stalking, neither of us having the least
idea as to his fellov; -hunter's proceedings.

The wounded cow staggered almost to falling; she had
strength, however, to move heavily on. Napesskes went in

• I am inclined to tliink that the Eaglo Hill Creek of Arrowsmith's map
is a totally (liU'erent stream I'roni that referred to above, wliieh I suspect was
erroneously designated by Nunnne (whose aeciuaintaneo v.itli the district was
scanty enough) — unless, indeed, the stream possesses more names than one,
as not unfre(iucntly happens. Finding myself unabhi to lay down the locali-
ties iii this neighbourhood in a manner correspondent with the description in
my journal, 1 fear that some error must exist among the original notes them-
selves,— through a slip of the jten, or, more probably, from misinformation.
Nevertheless, I oiler the particulars as they stand, lioping to draw the atten-
tion of future travellers to the subject.

CHAP. IX.

FORT CARLTON.

116

pursuit, and I was just in time to get a shot at another cow
while she was in the act of disappearing over the knoll, and
my bullet raked her from stern to stem. She stopped, crawled
on a few yards, then Nummd finished her. Napesskes mean-
while was following the wounded cow down into the plain,
and as soon as she arrived there a bull came forward to pro-
tect her, keeping constantly at her side, and putting himself
always between her and danger's way. For a good while
he would not be driven off, and Napesskes, with laudable
humanity, refrained from killing him ; at length, however,
the skilful hunter managed to scare him away, and then very
easily secured his companion. We found her to be tolerably
fat, — a fortunate circumstance for us, for our provisions were
nearly all expended.

' It is very cool at night at our elevated camp, thougli
the days are so hot ; and this is a comfort, as the cold keeps
the mosquitoes down, — indeed I am almost beginning to
forget the existence of the plagues. This respite, and the
good spring water, have made me feel much better than for
some time past. There is great scarcity of jnire water in
the central country. From Crow-wing to Fort Ellice we did
not see a single spring. There is a fine, though small, running
stream flowing into the Qu'appelle near where we crossed, •
but from that place to this we have found nothing at all
resembling it. Our drink has been either swamj) water, bad
tasted and full of insects, or else muddy river water. Wild
raspberries, strawberries, and gooseberries, grow abundantly
on the Bad Hill.'

July 2\st. — Again I rose at daybreak, and set oat in search
of the wounded bear. All the party went with me except
Kline, who was to follow us with the cart, when he had
finished packing up the tent and the rest of the baggage. On

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116

CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL,

CUAP. IX.

reaching the ravine where we expected to find the grisly,
Numnie, Duncan, and I, crossed over to the place where it
had last been moving among the bushes, while Napesskes
stopped on the bank I liad shot from, to report if anything
broke out that way. Leaving Duncan with the horses, lest
they should take alarm tlu'ough some glimpse of the lurking
enemy, Numniu and I then entered the thicket on our knees,
creeping along side by side, our weapons on full cock, — I car-
rying the large Dickson rifle, he bringing forward one of my
twelve-bore Purdey guns.

' The bushes seemed almost impenetrably thick, but after
crawling through the outer brush we found a sort of path
about two yards wide. It led to a small pool of water over-
arched with thick brushwood, and beside it we saw the grisly
bear lying dead on its back, with its legs outstretched and
its bowels protruding from a hole in the side of its belly.

'Numme, who, as yet, had supposed it to be a female,
now held up his hands in surprise. " C'est un taureau ! " he
exclaimed ; and sure enough it was, being a male not quite
full grown, — about three years old. The tracks of a cub were
stamped in the mud all round, most singularly like a child's
footmarks. This brought such thoughts 'o my mind that I
felt almost glad the little bear and its mother had escaped.
She had probably slipped away in the bush, while the male,
already tliere, showed himself and got shot.

' At first, on seeing the large wound in the bear's side, I
thought Numme niust have hit it with the twelve-bore, but
we soon discovered the small round hole where my conical
ball had entered, on the right side above the hip, spreading
in its passage through the animal's body so as to tear a great
riigged hole on the opposite side. Nummt' kept all along
assuring mo that the shot could not have been his, but I

1 f

CHAP. IX.

FORT CARLTON.

117

thought he might be saying this from mere politeness. Now,
however, there could be no mistake, for though a small bullet
may make a large hole, a large bullet cannot make a small
one.

'We skinned the bear and took his skuU.* No object
could be more appaDingly hideous than a fresh-skinned bear.
He is like a monstrous mis-shapen man, of giant strength
and devilish ferocity, — a true Hans of Iceland. His head
especially, all raw and grinning, is " a thing to dream of, not
to tell." '

Close by the carcase grew a profusion of wild mint, the
very scent of which seemed to draw ugliness from its disgust-
ing neighbourhood. I often used to put mint leaves into my
tea to correct the taste of the foul swamp-water ; I never did
so again. " From the eater came forth meat, from the strong
came sweetness," was no true proverb for me.

The skinning operations well over, we breakfasted. Then,
having been joined by Kliue, with his cart, we set out on our
return to Cherry Bush. As we were travelling along, we
came upon a new-born buffalo calf : we merely looked at it
and went our way, leaving it quietly crouching in the grass.
The mother cow, however, seeing us so near its resting-place,
came running from the herd, and full of the notion that her
little one was being carried off, the poor foolish creature
never went to see if it were still where she had hidden it,
but kept following on and on, watching all our movements
with an air of most pitiable anxiety. In vain we tried to
drive her back, she would not be driven, she seemed incap-
able of fear ; but after a long time, she quitted us of her own

* Both skin ami skull were brought safely to this country. The former
measures 5 feet 8 inches in its present rather dried condition. Some large old
grislies reach 8 feet, or even 9 feet, in length.

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118

CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL,

CHAP. IX.

accord, and slowly retraced lier steps : we hoped that she
found the little calf alive and safe and well, but most pro-
bably the wolves had devoured it while she was far away.

The buffalo were trooping all over the plains, not in dense
enormous herds, but broken into innumerable small strag-
gling bands. I was more than ever struck with the likeness
of the old bulls to lions, as we saw them standing apart on
the low ridges and sandy knolls, eyeing us from afar with an
air of savage watchfulness, — each neck crested with a luxu-
riant mane, swelled into greater largeness by the hump be-
neath it, each short, tufted tail held straight out from the
body in bold and lion-like defiance. In one scattered herd
I noticed an animal towering far above the rest ; it was one
of those glossy, fiat- sided, long-legged oxen already spoken of.
They fall into this condition in calf-hood, either from the
attacks of wolves, or from measures taken by the Indians.
As these cattle are rare, besides being the best for meat, I
began to run him, wishing to secure a fine specimen; how-
ever, I soon gave him up, for he had so long a start and
went so well that I could not hope to overtake him without
the risk of losing my people, and perhaps falling among hos-
tile war-parties. AVhen nearer home I ran a cow, and shot
her very easily ; she was poor and lean, which accounted
for her bad running, so we only took her tongue.

About 2 o'clock we reached Cherry Bush. Just as dinner
was over, a few bulls rushed past close by the tents, and
some being wanted at the time, we all turned out to slioot
thcuL I fired at a young bull galloping hard, about 200
yards off, and broke his foreleg witli the Puvdey rifle; I'
tlien chased liini Dickson in hand, blazing at him as I ran
in dreadfully out of breath, and by chance hitting him in
the ribs. It was a mere graze, and he would have escaped.

CHAP. IX.

FORT CARLTON.

119

for I had no ammunition with me, but M'Kay and Kline
coming up at the moment followed on in pursuit, and the
former stopped him with a well-planted bullet.

It was lucky that the bear was dead when Numme and I
crawled up to him, for, on shooting off the Dickson rifle, both
barrels hung fire badly, having been too long loaded, and
much shaken on the saddle. The check would have thrown
out my aim at the critical moment, and we should have been
at the mercy of the grisly, who, in such a thicket, and at
suc^ c\f'" quarters, would have killed us both, unless the
ol . unte ad shot a good d ■ jetter than he had lately
made a habit of doing.

I was vexed to find that my absence had lost me the
chance of a larger bear than the one I had just brought
home. It came prowling about the hunter's camp the very
day we started for the Bad Hill, and Tait, while riding alone,
discovered it in a swamp, and ran it to bay in a small piece
of water, where he shot it without difficulty. It was a full-
grown male, and very thin.

M'Kay, by my permission, had been giving Morgan a trial
with the buffalo. He found my gallant pony both fast and
fearless, and as good as any trained runner, and succeeded in
shooting five cows off his back in a single race. M'Beath
shot two off Wawpooss (who was now himself again), and shot
the same number off' La Framboise, — an animal who went
well while he lasted, but very soon shut up. "We were thus
plentifully supplied with meat, which the Carlton women
were engaged in drying for us.

[During our stay my people made a set of cart harness in
a very singular manner. They carved it out in its proper
sliape on the very body of a bull as he lay back upwards,
and then lifted it up complete in a single piece. The sun

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120

CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL,

CHAP. IX.

quickly dried the raw hide, and it turned into the toughest
of leather. They also made some of the long lines that are
used for so many purposes. These they carved out in the
same fashion from the hind quarters of a bull, by forming a
series of spirally-enlarging circular cuts, passing the knife under
them, and lifting off the hide exactly like the skin of a well-
peeled apple or orange. The ends were then ui-cached to two
stakes, between which the strip being tightly stretched, it soon
became a straight and perfect line. When running buffalo,
tlie hunter generally carries a line of this sort coiled up and
tucked under his belt, one end being fastened to the horse's
head. Should a full take place, as it frequently does when
biidgcr-holes are numerous, the line uncoils itself from the
rider's belt as he is quitting the saddle, and trails upon the
ground, making it easier fur him to recover his horse.]

HI rrAi.DiiiDK I. IMC

Jtihf 22(1. — The hunters were starting to run buffiilo : so
I had ^lorgau saddled, and went with tliem. The brave little
horse dashed to tlic front, perfectly obedient, full of life and
spirit, I singled out tlu* leading band of cows and tried hard
to close for a slif»t, but it was long ere I could approach them,
though the pony was straining every nerve and going quite

'.U

CHAP. IX.

FORT CARLTON.

121

magnificently. After two miles of it they showed signs of
failing, and the poorer ones stopped. I cheered on little
Morgan and urged him to his utmost ; he made new efforts,
dashed forward, and brought me near one of the finest, one of
a sleek pair that kept well before the rest of the band. My
wrist was tired from holding a heavy five-chambered carbine,
— I missed the first shot, but, closing with the cow again,
I gave her a second ; it toL \ard on her and she nearly
stopped.

Looking on her as safe, I followed her companion, and ran
her for some distance ; but finding the chase likely to be too
long, I returned to the wounded one I had left behind.

She had partly recovered, and galloped off in a way that
surprised me, however I soon overtook her ; she turned short
round, and came to bay beside a pool of water among the
sand-hills. I stopped my pony. The cow instantly made a
slow but vicious charge, then resumed her former position ;
and this manceuvre she repeated whenevei I drew up in
hopes to get a steady shot : — there she stood, her head inces-
santly towards me, her eyes glowing with rage.*

Again and again I tried to pass round her, but she always
baftled me by quickly revolving in her place, sometimes trot-
ting forward a few steps as if intending to charge ; mean-
while my beautiful pony, brave as a lion, seemed ready to
rush against her very horns, pressing towards her even, so
tliat 1 was obliged to restrain his ardour.

But the end came at last. Taking a moment when the
buffalo lowered her licad, I gave lier a shot somewhere in the

* Why is it, among all sorts of animals, that when brought to bay some
individual ones oxpri'ss such more than common fury in their ej'es ? Hers
were like emerald furnaces : no bull ever looked so fierce as she diil. Of tlie
many stags 1 have shot, I remember but tw o that glared with this remarkable
expression of intense, everlasting hatred.

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122

CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL,

CHAI'. IX.

neck or chest. The sudden stroke confused her, she half-
turned, and offered me a faher chance ; then I shot her
through the heart, and the gallant cow fell dead, with lier
face still to the foe.

Tying my neck handkerchief to her horns to scare the
wolves away, I returned for a cart, and IM'Kay and Short
getthig into it, we went off together to fetch hor home. Mor-
gan had done enough, so T took Vermont instead. lie was
' as idiotical as usual,' going out reluctantly but pulling all
the way back, hurting my hands most cruelly by tl.is peiTcrse
conduct, for they were blistered from buffalo-mnning with-
out gloves under a scorching summer sun.

After some searcli we found the cow. She was surrounded
with wolves, but none of them had dared to brave the terrors of
my black and white handkerchief While the cutting-up pro-
ceeded, I hid myself in a sand hollow close by, and fired at
several of these greedy sneaking thieves, killing one — a largo
female; and on the way home I struck another. — 'The
wolves are detestable wretches, l)ut do more good than harm
to man, seldom attacking horses or human beings, and de-
vouring carcases and offal that would breed a pestilence if
left to rot.'* It is their habit to hang round the buffalo herds,
preying on any young or sickly animals that fall into th(>ir
clutches, but carefully shunning the horns of the strong old
bulls. A young calf separatc(,l from its mother stands but a
poor chance. That very day wo saw a tolerably lavge one

* These wolves were eliie(!y of the sniaHer kind — Caiiis hitnms — the
Prairie Wolf, Cased /Fo^irs— Huilson's Wax Co. Lists. J^fccs(ch-cfllHJlJl>nrcsh
— Cree ImliaiLS. (Tlie h'ligtli of these wolve.s is al>nut tliiee feet ; that of the
large wolve.s — Caiiis lupus, — upwards of four feet.) IiIcii.mih.son, Faun.
Bor.-Am., vol. i. pp. 73, 71. The gi'cat wolf is saitl to be very good erring
(like th(! do^, whieii is a favouriti^ Indian food), hut the smaller wolf is i:on-
sidered uneatable.

CIIAP. IX.

FORT CARLTON.

123

pursued by a band of wolvoa in a string of a quarter of a mile,
each following at a few yards' interval behind the other. The
foremost, considerably in advance, was close upon the calf,
which was bleeding at the nose and throat ; — another minute
would have settled its destiny, but M'Kay galloped up and
overtook the wolf, too busy to notice him, and shot it in the
haunch, saving the poor calf at any rate for a time. If it
failed to find its mother the reprieve must have been short
enough.

* Last night the wolves and the innumerable dogs at Tait's
camp made noise enough to wake the dead. The dogs were
disgusting with their horrible yelp and yowl, but I confess to
a liking for the wild, melancholy, and almost musical notes
of the wolf. Buffalo bulls, roaming about unscared by our
tents, were bellowing around us all the while. [The sound is
rather deep than loud] ; I have heard louder roaring from
stags in many a Scottish deer-forest. The bulls were beginning
their rutting season. Pairs might everywhere be seen outside
the herds, consisting of a cow and an attendant bull who had
taken her away from the rest ; but this I believe was rather
exceptional, the sexes generally remaining together in large
bands as usual.'

' I find buffalo meat tolerably good, but not nearly equal
to fine beef. It is better in autumn they say, so I suspend
my judgment.' Thus runs my journal, but I believe I
was mistaken in that depreciatory opinion. In fact, we
never kept the meat long enough, being obliged by the
heat and the flies to use it the day it was killed, or soon
after, which jjrevented it from having a fair chance to become
tender.

One of the women brought in the bear-skin, very nicely
prepared. It looked remarkably well, but I confidently ex-

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194

C'lIEIlllY BUSK, THE BAD HILL,

• HAP, IX,

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pcctod to get mucli larj^'cr specimens of tlie grisly before my
journey was conflicted.

These Indian women had been most serviceable to us in
dressing skins and hoads, drying meat, and mending or
making clothes ; so, Avhen adding a small present to the mere
payment for their work, I was glad to lind among my stores
a ])areel of beads exactly to their taste. It amused me to sco
that fashion reigned here as imperiously os in more civilised
lands ; some fine, richly-colt>ured, oval bi^ads, the size of
pigeon's eggs, wiiich 1 consickirod my best, and which a year
or two before would have been generally admired, were des-
l)ised and out of date, while the little trashy white ones, no
bigger than a ]>in's head, were highly a]»preciated. Perhaps
the small ber.ds were valued as useful for endu'oidery, iu which
the Indian and half-bi-eed women excel ; while the larger
ones, oidy ser\ ing for necklaces and ornaments, had come to
bo thought too barbaric by those who lived at the Forts.

* In course of the afttMiioon the men employed themselves
in feats of strength and skill. M'Kay seemed strongest in
the arm. Kline showed himself both strong and active.
Among other performances, he rolled a stick from under
him, from breast to feet, while raising himself off his ehest
on his arms alone.'

1 did not like the five-shot revolver carbine. It was very
heavy, so short as to cause a dilliculty in dealing the horse's
head when shooting ftirward, and there was such an esca])e
at the breech as to scorch one's wrists and burn one's shirt
sleeves — for in the hottest weather we often left our coats at
home. The first shot made ^lorgan shake his ears a while,
tlu^ muzzle being so close to them, and when I afterwards
fired from tlie sjioulder several grains of powder struck pretty
shar]»ly upon my left cheek.

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CHAi*. tX.

FORT CARLTON.

125

Tho twclvo-boro gims ai -'verecl best for buffiilo-nuiniiig,
boiii}^ quickly loaded ; — though too precious to bo loaded in
tho (luickest way, as tho lialt-brcecls manage tho ad'air. These
lumters go into action with their mouth full of bullets and a
largo horn of powder round their neck, and after each dis-
charge pour a chance handful of powder down the barnd, spit
a bullet in on tho top, and strike tho stock against their heel
to send all homo ; tho lock being of tho old llint-and-steel
pattern, with a very largo touch-hole, arranges itself if tho
chamber is closed. Of course the gun, thus loosely loaded,
is held upright till tho moment of firing, when the muzzle is
so sharply tilted downwards that tho ball has not time to
drop out before tho powder actf., —though now and then a
burst docs happen. The half-breeds never lire off tho
shoulder from horseback, but hold tlio gwa out with bnth
hands, in which manner some of them shoot accur rely to a
good long distance.

JiUi/ 2M. — While wo were at the Bad ^Till, Indians en- io
from a great camp of Crees, a day's mai ch I'vom Tait's, and
reported that Blackfoot war-parties were spread all over the
country, and had been trying to entrap them into ambus-
cades, — unsuccessfully, however, * as they had been too often
caught to be easily caught again.' This : -ews determined mo
to go to Fort Carltn: i instead of Fort Pitt, for thus I might
hope not only to escape the Blackfeet, who would steal my
horses, but also to avoid the Crees, who would certainly be
troublesome, even if they did not plunder to the same extent ;
besides which we should go:,i -lie advantage of travelling
with Tait's people, who were now preparing for their return.
As I had hunted enough for the present, there was no longer
any object in continuing the direct march to Fort Pitt, except
tho possible saving of a few days on the journey to Edmonton.

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126

CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL,

CllAP. IX.

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That course, however, involved several risks of loss and delay,
and it was clearly worth while to sacrifice a little time by
way of insurance.

I was well pleased with our sport among the buffalo,
which to my mind could scarcely have been imjn'oved. Had
slaughter been tlie chief object, we might have slain Imndreds
of bulls and lean cows — nothing could have been more easily
done ; but such cruelty would have weighed heavy on my
conscience, and, to give my men justice, they showed no
inclination for mere wanton massacre. Not counting two or
three biUls shot after a fine run and allowed every chance for
their lives, or slain under some sudden excitement, I could
safely say that no buffalo had been killed by myself or my
men except for good, or at all events definite and sufficient,
reasons.

My own success I considered very satisfactory. I had
picked out from an immense herd a bull with a head that
everybody admired ; and, besides shooting several good cows,
I had killed one — the fine barren cow that Morgan had
out-raced so gallantly — which was acknowledged to surpass
any animal shot by the hunters at either encampment. It
was time to leave off. We had all had enough of it, and the
lean and fagged condition of our horses told the same tale ;
for buffalo-running under a July sun comes hard u])on grass-
fed animals already wearied by a long and toilsome journey.

That morning, accordingly, tents were struck in both the
camps, and we all set out after breakfast, journeying nearly
due north as we made our way together in the direction of
Fort Carlton. From the time we passed the IJoasting Hills
the country became unintoresting, — chiefly consisting of
damp prairies, covered Mith long grass and varied with
swamps and bush, or poplar islands scattered here and there

:Li:

CUAP. IX.

FORT CARLTON.

127

on the verdant sea of plain. We soon came to a regular
Leaten cart-track ; no game was anywhere to be seen, for the
buffalo were all on the other side of the hills, so, for most
of the time, I made myself comfortable in the waggon, travel-
ling smoothly enough upon that level road, by no means sorry
to rest myself after the last week's toil, and glad to spare my
riding horses as much as possible.

The absurd Bichon, delighted to find himself again in
richer pasture, beguiled the time by feasting on flowers in
his old peculiar way. Poor little Morgan ! I looked at him
with a sorrowful heart. It grieved me that we were so soon
to be parted. But he was far too thin and worn to go on to
the mountains ; there M^as no choice but to leave him at Carl-
ton to recruit for the homeward journey.

On the 24th we camped at a wooded creek, a few miles
beyond the Elbow of the North Saskatchewan. The river at
tliis place has hardly half the breadth of water that the South
Branch possesses where it makes its great Elbow ; the banks
of the former are more wooded than those of the southern
stream, but neither so wild nor so roughly and picturesquely
broken into heights. In the neighbuii)hood of our camp
rose a fine spring, but it was too strongly flavoured with iron
ore to be useful for ordinary purposes.

The next day we made an early start, travelling for some
miles before breakfast, and by the afternoon we had arrived
at Carlton, and encamped ourselves near the river a few
hundred yards from the Fort.

Mr. llardisty, the officer in charge, at once came to wel-
come us, offering every assistance in the most kind and
obliging manner, lie stayed a while at my tent, and we had
tea together, after which he returned to the Fort, — where,
by his hospitable invitation, I might have had a room, but as

JV. • 111

■1 ,.
1 .

5':" '■:
i 'I

If- '

128

CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL.

CHAP. IX.

f^ ;-^

1*1

isi

our stay was to he but a short one, I preferred remaining
under my own canvas. As things turned out, it was a bad
arrangement ; for, presently, a set of drunken Indians pushed
into the camp, prying everywhere, and making themselves
quite at home, and betAveen this intrusion and the savage
attacks of the mosquitoes it was long before we could settle
ourselves comfortably for the night.

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CHAPTER X.

FOKT CARLTON TO FORT EDMONTON.

July 26<A. — This morning Mr. Hardisty and I, accom-
panied by M'Kay and Tait, rode over to the " horse-guard,"
about three miles away on tlie farther side of the river, our
object being to leave Morgan, Vermont, Paul, and Anthony,
who were to be kept there till my return, and to choose
other horses from the Company's lot, to be hired by us to
supply their place.

All my horses, excepting the .Bi(;hon, whose worn-down
hoofs required a set of shoes, having first been swum over
to the better pasturage on the otiier side, we crossed in
the skiff, and then proceeded on our way through a fine
grazing country of undulating character, diversified with
many small lakes and poplar groves, and covered with grass
of the richest description abounding in different kinds of
vetches. Looking back towards the Fort, the opposite
banks of the river seemed like an English park, rising
after the first steep ascent in gradual slopes luxuriantly
clothed with wood, disposed by nature in groups and gladed
masses, as if some skilful hand had been cutting the forest
into forms of symmetry.

When we reached the horse-guard we beheld a drove of
about twenty pony mares, all more or less prettily shaped,
and some of them very handsome, who were roaming in the

'If;

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130

FORT CARLTON TO

OIIAP. X.

I fill

i I

1 -■ !■}

fertile pastures witli a good-looking brown stallion, over
fourteen hands high, as their companion. There were also
about fifty horses for carting and general purposes, and from
among these we selected two stout bays to draw the waggon
to Edmonton. We also picked out a small light-coloured
" bichou," which I afterwards rode back to the Fort — a fat,
comfortable, lazy little beast, branded on one hind quarter
with the capital letter 0.

Tait mounted himself on a fine young bay horse belong-
ing to Mr. Hardisty, but being scarcely broke, it was so
violent that he passed it on, after a struggle, to my Indian
friend Napesskes, who had just joined us, and under his
handling it went quietly enough for the rest of the way.

On coming to the river again we descried my poor old
Bichon running up and down the opposite banks in anxious
search for his comrades ; no sooner did he make us out
than he plunged into the water and swam so quickly to
meet us that he reached the skiff before we were half-way
across.

I tlien went to the Fort to make a settlement with
Numme, " the old gentleman," as my men always called
him, I ga\'e him the wonderful gun with some ammunition,
also some tea and sugar, besides his wages, for he continued
to say that he had been misled as to his engagement, and,
mucli as I doubted this, I wislied to leave no room to any
one for complaint of my dealings. "The old gentleman," as
we heard next morning, innnediately went and bought a
liorso from a Cree, — who sold it him a tremendous bargain,
liaving stolen it from a man of his own tribe, whom he
knew to be in liot pursuit ; Mr. NumniL' then made a mid-
night Hitting with his ]»urchuse. He certainly had the keenest
eye for Xumbi'V-< )nt'.

CHAP. X.

FORT EDMONTON.

131

This business settled, I amused myself by looking
through the store, that comprehensive place where every-
thing required for the Indians or the Company's employ(5s is
procurable in greater or less abundance, — clothing, ammuni-
tion, blankets, groceries, pots and pans, crockery, knives,
tobacco, and hundreds of miscellaneous unexpected things,
all stowed away in an inviting orderly disorder, in regions
redolent of the wild beasts' skins and furs collected in the
course of trade. I bought some beads and a few use-
ful common articles, and then Mr. Hardisty helped me in
arrangements for the storage of my skulls and skins and
other heavy goods whicli he had kindly offered to take
care of till my return. He showed me a grisly bear-skin
of immense size, larger than I could have thought possible ;
it belonged to Captain Palliser, who had bought it from
an Indian during the previous winter.

' I akj left every drop of rum that I had, that I might
be able, with a clear conscience, to tell the Indians that
there was none in the camp. I find I can do without
stimulants, and do not like to be drinking wine or spirits
when my men have nothing stronger than tea. Wine they
would consider altogether out of their line, but spirits they
might be more or less tempted by. I have no wine,
however, nor do I want any.'

After this I went to pay a visit to Mrs. Tait, who lived
with her husband at the Fort, the mother of the pretty
little girl who came to my tent at Cherry Bush, as might
easily be guessed by their likeness to one another. Mrs.
Tait had been doing some sewing for me, and was now
engaged in making me a few pairs of moccasins to take
home on my return. Thanks to Mr. Hardisty's kindness, I
was well sui)plied with moccasins for use ; for on hearing

%■, ^

I '

I. ! :li

I1 Wiiii'

ill

i ■

Milii

132

FORT CARLTON TO

CHAP. X.

i I

that I had none that fitted, he insisted on giving me three
beautifully finished sets, besides which he presented me with
a leather hunting-shirt for wear in the Rocky Mountains,
where the dead and rugged branches in the thick fir woods
make terrible havoc of all woollen clothes.

Fort Carlton was a large palisaded enclosure, with square
bastions at each of the four corners ; most of the houses
tolerably good, but some not quite finished. It stood about
a quarter of a mile from the river, at the foot of a bank,
which had been cleared of wood immediately behind the
buildings. Tlie clearance was made entirely by Indian
women under Mr. Hardisty's direction, for the men counted
it disgraceful to do anything in the shape of labour. I
noticed a party of these women washing clothes near the
river in the morning, the wives and daughters of the
drunkards who were so intrusive just after our arrival.
One girl might almost be called pretty, but all, without
exception, were flat-backed and masculine in contour.

The dogs were very numerous. Their chief use is in
winter, tliose at the forts being generally idle at other
seasons; we put one of them to work, however, making
him draw things backwards and forwards in a small cart
which Tait's children were in the habit of playing with.
One of the little ones cried to see her cart going away, so
we put her into it and made her happy again.

This afternoon we passed all our baggage across the
river and camped on the other side, in readiness for an early
start on the following morning.

July 2 *lth. — I was dreaming about certain well-known
scenes, which seemed the same and yet not the same, for
they were changed by dream magic and exaggerated into
glory, each stone transfigured into a rock, each hill into a

life!

■

'-J

CHAP. X.

FORT EDMONTON.

133

wild and beautiful mountain. The scene was beginning to
open more clearly, when, at the most interesting moment,
that wretched animal Pointer, devoured by mosquitoes, made
a noisy entrance into my tent bringing with uxm legions of
the enemy, and I awoke. Alas for him ! his stay was
neither long nor pleasant. Formerly I had sometimes pitied
his sufferings and allowed him shelter under my roof, but
his restlessness had always forced me to banish him ;
besides, there was something mean about his nature which
had turned my liking into dislike, and I could not bear
him near me.

I had by this time pretty well learned liow to keep out
the flies, and they never troubled me at night. Before
lying down I used to shake the tent and fasten the door-
flaps very carefully, then searching with a candle it was easy
to discover and massacre any insects that remained.

Something is generally wanted at the last moment when
leaving a Fort ; — more pemmican had now to be sent for, such
reports being abroad about the scarcity of food at Pitt and
Edmonton, that we dared not trust to getting any supplies at
either. This delayed us a little, but did not prevent a
tolerably early start, thanks to being camped on the right
side of the river.

After climbing the steep high bank, we passed through
the same country as on the previous day, and then came to
more level plains, though of equally fertile nature. Similar
as they are in some respects, these rich pastures look quite
unlike anything in England. The difference chiefly arises
from the prevalence of poplars, which stamp a peculiar
character on the landscape, for even when young and no
larger than weeds, they grow so thickly through the herbage
as to give it a strange unhomelike tinge.

> S

K il

134

FORT CARLTON TO

CHAP. X.

' 1 hate the very sight of these poplar prairies, because
they swarm with mosquitoes, which always abound in long
grass. My joy is in a vast sandy plain, broken with bluffs,
and carpeted with short, crisp, yellow-brown turf. There
game abounds, and the abominable fly scarcely dares to
show his proboscis. Well may the Evil One be called
Baal-zebub — the god of flies ! '

'Black, deprived of his friends Morgan and Vermont,
has begim to scrape acquaintance with old Bichon, whom he
never iised to deign to notice.'

'At dinner time, looking at my meerschaum with a
magnifying glass, I found, as I suspected, that there was a
small crack where the bowl joins the stem, so that the oil
bubbles through and makes a black patch, while the rest of
the pipe takes on hardly any colour. This is a nuisance, but
there is some amusement in watching how tobacco affects a
pipe, just as doctors studied the process of digestion through
a hole that remained open in a v/ounded man's stomach.' . .

' Towards afternoon we came to a decidedly hilly country,
with numerous small pools and lakes, and a good deal of
poplar wood. Since crossing the North Branch, the wl 1e
country may be described as trying to break out into a wood,
and half succeeding. In the evening we travelled along the
shores of Bear Lake, a very pretty piece of water of some
size, with stony promontories, deep bays, and wooded islands ;
then, continuing for a few miles farther, we reached a small
artificial-loooking lake, near which we camped.

' A funny black sleigh dog, as fat as a pig, and possessed
of only four inches of tail, has come with us, following the
old man who guides us till we meet La Grace* (a hunter

* fjo fira-cr, so the name is spelt in the Company's statement of accounts.
It was, however, |iionriiincetl Le Graisse.

CHAP, X.

FORT EDMONTON.

135

then on his way from Edmonton, who soon after joined my
party). " Wliisky " was rather timid at first, but I threw
him some bits of meat, and we became very friendly, to the
great disgust of Pointer, who is given to jealousy.'

The foxes kept constantly barking round our tent-^.
uttering strange sounds, a mixture of the noises of the dc'
and the wolf. It was not a melodious note ; but never have
I known the cry of any wild animal that had not something
pleasing in its cadences, when heard in a solitary desert
place, where the din of man's life is far away, where nothing
reveals itself to the eye or ear but is touched with the
adorable melancholy of loneliness.

July 2%th. — Our march took us over very hilly ground
to-day. Right upon the track we discovered the remains
of a broken waggon, belonging probably to some of the
Canadians or Americans who Jiad lately passed on their way
to the gold diggings. I was just thinking how fortunate we
had been in escaping such disasters, hen a loud crash burst
upon my ears, and I beheld M'Beath bounding from his cart,
just clearing it as it upset and rolled over and over in its
progress to the bottom of a hill. The axle had broken,
nothing else was wrong, and nothing got damaged. A little
wooded lake happened to be close at hand, so we took the
opportunity for our mid-day halt ; and while my men re-
paired the axle, I waited on a sunshiny slope covered with
a profusion of wild strawberries, and finished my first read-
ing of " The Winter's Tale." "^'^

July 2^th. — We had great trouble in catching Lane,
who had now wonderfully freshened up and become a very
handsome old horse. He belonged to a breed that ranges
wild on the other side of the Kocky Mountains. Though

* See Appendix.

liii

13G

FORT CARLTON TO

CHAr. X.

■M

they hail taken him when quite young, no one could ride
him till he had once been tired nearly to death by drawing
a sledge loaded with two buffalo cowa as far as the Little
Devil's Lake and back, with the heavy labour all the while
of going first to make tlio track through the snow. He
gave in as he reached his starting-point at Carlton, upon
which they immediately got on his back and rode him when
he was too weak for resistance. Though pretty well tamed
by this discipline, he was subject to fits of wildneas, and
would never bear that anything should touch his flanks.

[Kline was the only person who could catch him in his
difficidt moods. It was a study to watch this man's tactics
— how he walked round and round the wary old animal, bent
half double and making the most extraordinary movements,
till at length Lane grew so puzzled that he forgot to run
away, while the active Frenchman slipped nearer and nearer,
then suddenly threw a line over the horse's head, and secured
him in an instant.]

Our road to-day ran pleasantly over crisp brown turf,
and took us through an interesting country, hilly and
picturesque, though rather bare of wood. As we passed by
a place called " The Springs," Kline's cart stuck fast in a
creek, and some of the things got a little wet, but the
damage was not worth speaking of. We were preparing to
halt for our niglit encampment, wlien M'Kay shot a skunk
wliicli the dogs had chased out of some bushes near the cart-
track, wliereupon there arose such an awful smell that we
had to go on a good piece farther than we had intended.""*

* In leffiri'iice to the odour eiuittcd by tlic skunk, I find tlie followinj;
iuuusin^ passHj^e in Heaiii' : — "I cannot lielp observing tliat the fetid smell
of the latter [the skunk] has not been nnich exaggerated by any author. When
I was at Cumberland House in the fall of 1774, some Indians that were tenting
on he plantation killed two of these animals, and made a feast of them ; when

riiAP. X.

FORT EDMONTON.

137

July 'dint. — While we wore dining on the .shore of a
large and heautiful piece of water called Jack-fish Lake, one
of the Thick-wood Crees came paddling over in a canoe from
the opposite side : my men and he held a long talk together,
and I meanwhile read " Hamlet." *

Proceeding on onr way, the country still bore a pictur-
esque appearance, all wood, hill, and lake, hut much of
it had been terribly devastated by fire. The lakes were
swarming with ducks and geeao, the former easily to be
picked up in any quantity. A large white wolf showed
himself within fair range ; I knocked him over with a shot
through the haunches, but in spite of a shattered leg, he
escaped me in the thickly wooded glen of a neighbouring
creek, which same deep though insignificant rivulet presently
cost us the trouble of raising all the baggage in the carts
before we could attempt a crossing.

Soon afterwards, arriving at the "VMiite Mud Lake, we
made an early halt there, intending to remain during the
approaching Sunday, and formed our camp on the top of
an elevated clay bluff, whose precipitous broken face en-
countered the wash of the water some twenty yards beneath
our feet. The lake is triangular, and apparently about six
miles in circumference ; its water is of good quality for use.

the spot wliere they were singed and gutted was so impregnated with that
nauseous smell which they emit, that after a whole winter had elapsed, and
the snow had thawed away in the spring, the smell wa.s still intolerable. I
am tolil, however, that the flesh is Ly no means tainted with the smell, if care
be taken in gutting, and taking out the bag that contains this suiprising

effluviii I do not think it is their urine which contains that

pestilential eflluvia, for if that was the case ail the country where .hey frequent
would be so tainted with it, that neither man nor beast could l.ve there with
any degree of comfort."— Hearne, A Jouniey to the J^orthcrn ('cean, p. 377-8.
* See Appendix.

t!i

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i k

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V' ..

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III

138

FORT CARLTON TO

riiAp. X.

11"'

Sunihiij, Jiili/ 3l.s^. — La Oraco fU'tv <i, brin}j;ing l.orsos
for Fort Carlton, which tho ohl man, wi:. li-i'l now to leave
US, took undur his chargo, whilo tho formor roniait'.cd as our
giiido. 'Tho ([uoer fat dog Whisky has choson to stop with
us. Ho has rather attached himself to nie ; heing very ([uiet
he gives no trouhle, and his ways anniso nie.'

A II ff list 1st. — We started about G o'clock, auu break-
fasted at Turtle Creek, Our track led us through a prairie
country, hilly in parts, and almost entirely blackened by
recent fires. This made pleasiint travelling, for there wore
no flies, there being no vegetation to harbour them, and the
soil was so soft that the horses did not slip as they had
been doing of late on the harder ground, through tho almost
glassy polish given to their unshod feet by contact with
the short dry turf.

1 had an accident to-day, owing doubtless to this very
cause. Tlie men were halting for dinner at JiUglish Creek,
and as I cantered down a gentle grassy slo])e to join them,
Wawpooss slipped and fell, throwing me on the point of my
right shoulder. It hurt a little at the moment, and I felt
it DOW and then afterwards, but years passed before I dis-
covered that my collar-bone had been slightly dislocated.

In course of the morning we came to a place called
Horse Hill, so named on account of a l)attle between the
Crees and Blackfeet, in which forty horses were slain. A
little farther on, the track l>ronght us to within a mile of
the Saskatchewan, and continued nearly in that line. ' Eodc
through an uninteresting country as far as Ked Deer Hill. I
believe wo have made about forty miles to-day.'

Aiif/Hst 2il. — ' lleached Fort I'itt at 4 o'clock in the
afternoon. The Fort stands within a hundred paces of the
river, whicli is here deep and rapid, free from sandbanks.

CHAP. X.

FORT EDMONTON.

189

and about three huiulrod yards wide. These last two days
I Imvo noticed a few spnico firs amidst the eternal poplar,
but none of any size. In the whole British territory I have
not yet seen one tree that woidd be called large in Scotland,
not to speak of England. A tree thirty feet high and four
feet round seems a giant here, and is rarely to bo met with.
I can only attribute this dearth of good timber to the fires
that are constantly devastating the land. In one glen near
the Qu'appelle (where we found a raven's nest on the Gth
of July) there were oaks of a larger size, but they were of
no height, for the winds that sweep the prairie had cut
them down to the level of the shelter afforded by the
protecting banks.

'The Fort, enclosed by high palisades with bastioned
corners, forms a square rather more than half the size of
Carlton. Viewed from above it is like a camp of immense
tents, owing to the shape and colour of the roofs. Mr.
Macaulay and Mr. Sinclair received me with the greatest
kindness and cordiality. I supped with them at the Fort,
and we afterwards smoked together at my camp.

' There are a number of Indians here, six tents of Wood
Crees, and also some half-breed " free " hunters [hunters, that
is, who are not in the Company's employ] ; and as all of them
keep a number of dogs, besides the large lot belonging to the
Fort, it may be imagined what a nuisance it is. The whole
evening and the whole night my men were pelting the beasts
with sticks and stones; it was all we could do to save our
meat and harness from their famished maws, though some of
them must have been nearly killed by our missiles.'

August 3(?. — ' Mr. Macaulay and Mr. Sinclair breakfasted
with me, and we aftcuards rode to the horse-guard, about
eight miles off. IM'Kay came with us on Black, — whom I

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•^--m^aamtanttti' rrjr-*

140

FORT CARLTON TO

CHAP. X.

wished to exchauge if possible. Near the phice we met two
boys some fourteen years of age, both of them riding. One
was on a quiet old pony, biit the other rode a beautiful bay
yearling, full of spirit, and so large and well made that it
might easily have been thought two years older. This colt
belonged to Mr. Eowland, an Orkney man of forty years'
service with the Company, and celebrated for breeding fine
horses ; its rider was his son, who was considered about the
host light-weight rider in tlie district.

' The horse-guard was kept by an old French half-breed
named Cliarlevoix, in whose tent we waited the arrival of
Mr. Eowland, to whom a mess, t had been sent requesting
him to meet us. A nice little girl came and seated herself
on her fatliei-'s feet as he squatted cross-legged on the ground
in the Indian fashion ; slie was evidently his particular pet.
Outside there was a large drove of .niares and horses, perhaps a
hundred and fifty ; among thom I observed a fine stallion.
They were grazing in very rich plains, well watered but not
wet, the best possible country for liorses. All around was hilly,
wood growing more or less abundantly over both liill and dale.

' ]\rr. Eowland, a pleasant-looking old man, was not long
in coming. He saw Bhuk gallop, and then rode him him-
self. Both he and Mr. Sinclair wanted to get the horse, on
account of his appearance and great speed, and various ex-
changes were proposed on all sides. Finally I parted witli
him to My. Sinclair for a well-known buftalo-runner, ten
years old, a red roan with black points, called " Cendre," on
account of his colour, and a very neat bichon ])ony, six
years old, said to be a good runner also, -wliidi was bought on
the sp(»t at a large prii-e from Charlevoix the horse-keeper.

' Considering further that I must soon leave my old
Bichon, as he had got vei'v tliin, T tliought it would be better

»l

.(''

CHAP. X.

FORT EDMONTON.

141

both for myself and the poor beast to part with him now, so

negc

ated

gave me a

an exchange with Mr. Eowland, v
fine strong three-year-okl " cendro " in his stead, receiving
also a few pounds besides. Bichon is at a discount here.
They say he is older than I was led to believe, and that
though once a very good runner, he has much fallen off. I
daresay this is true, for he did not seem to me at all fast,
although very lasting.'

Mr. Eowland at first wanted more on the exchange than I
was inclined to offer, and we ended by dividing the difference.
Hearing afterwards on good authority that he had got rather
the worst of the bargain, I made out the order for the sum
lie originally mentioned, being unwilling to gain a profit at
his expense. I rode the young horse home, and liked him
enough to assign that as a reason for valuing him at the
larger sum. 'Mr. Eowland has a number of very good
horses ; unfortimately he has a fancy for docking their tails, —
spoiling their beauty, and giving the flies a cruel advantage.
In this country they always work their horses at two years
old, which seems a mistake.'

We got the carts and everything across the river, and
made a start in the afternoon. There "was a steep bank to
ascend, much higher than that on the northern side ; having
climbed it, however, we found a good hard road on the top,
idong which we drove for four or five miles and then camped.

I was riding Cendre (the Sinclair cendre, — the other one
I called " Eowland "), a handsome well-bred horse with a
beautiful head peculiarly fine in the muzzle, and with
large, intelligent, gentle eyes. Mr. Sinclair took an affec-
tionate leave of his favourite. " Poor Cendre," he said, " I
siiaU never see you again." I promised to bring the good
horse back if care would do it, but I spent my words in vain.

f I i

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111

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■I pt

IP. .'^

mi : '^'

i it'- ''

Jllj *P|ii|'

142

FORT CARLTON TO

CHAP. X.

r.i i i

» .t

r ^

for Mr. Sinclair firmly believed that the Eocky Mountains
would finish Ceudre, even if some of the others escaped, as he
was older and more delicately bred than the rest of the band.

Not far from the Fort we met a Cree riding alone,
bearing with him a curious red-deer fawn-skin quiver filled
with arrows. I asked Mr. Macaulay to buy it for me if
possible, thinking the I idian would be willing to part with
it, being so near his own tents ; but I afterwards heard that
he did not succeed in getting it.

Aiujust ijth. — This morning we worked at turning large
horse-shoes into small ones for some of the ponies whose
hoofs were much worn. M'Kay made an excellent job by
heating the shoes in our camp fire, and bending and shorten-
ing them oil the edge of an old axe.

At dinner two men came express with letters from Fort
Pitt, of little consequence as it happened. These messengers
had travelled iifty or sixty miles since sunrise.

We got quantities of ducks in a small lake, which was
perfectly alive with them. I shot some, and Short shot some,
and Pointer caught numbers of young ones as they swam
about the edges and tried to liide in the overhanging bushes,
amidst which he ferreted them out most perseveriugly.

Later in the day, as M'Kay and I rode together behind
the carts, we observed a large white female wolf stealing
after us some little distance in the rear. Wishing to
shoot her, M'Kay dismounted as soon as we got out of
sight, and hid himself in a bush close by the road, waiting
till she came up ; meanwhile I Avent quietly on so as not
to excite her suspicions.

Presinitly the wolf appealed again, still following right
on our track. M'Kay let her almost touch the bush that
concealed him, then gave her the whole of his first barrel ;

(•I

CHAP. X.

FORT EDMONTON.

143

■|

she staggered, but instantly recovering herself, leapt at his
throat, with a tremendous spring ; he was ready, however,
and his second barrel hurled her backwards and rolled her
into a lifeless heap. The gun was only loaded with small
shot, intended for ducks, so that very close quarters were
necessary in killing such an animal as a wolf, and this one
was of the largest kind.

August 6th. — The country, which had been hilly since
we left Fort Pitt, now became more and more wooded, with
swamps in the hollows that lay between the hiUs. The
mosquitoes were absolutely swarming ; their bites, however,
had ceased to swell up and fever me as formerly, so it was
easier to bear with their horrible annoyance. The horses
seemed to suffer more than we did. Little Bichon was
quite lame in the near hind-foot from stepping into the
smoke fire one night; Cendr6 also had slightly burnt one
of his hind-feet in the same manner. The poor things used
to crowd round the fire to avoid the tormenting flies, and in
struggling to keep their position in the smoke, they pushed
one another into the midst of the red-hot embers. We made
a smoke fire for them every night by heaping turf over burn-
ing logs, leaving openings in the mound for the escape of the
smoke, which would then continue to issue in dense clouds
for hours together.

During the morning we pushed by the Black Mud Hill,
so named from a place near a ;■ wamp where tlie Indians have
dug holes to get a certain substance found there [using it, I
believe, for painting piiirjses]. It was of the colour and
look of tar, but with no perceptible smell.

Soon afterwards the sky began to threaten, and my tent
was scarcely pitched, W!«en the rain poured forth in torrents,
drifting hard l)ef()re a strong north-westerly gale.

144

FORT CARLTON TO

CHA1\ X.

■I

While dinner went on a small dark-coloured bird came
and perched itstlf on my table. It was so tame that it
woidd not leave us, but kept hopping about among the men,
and I had difficulty in saving its life from the thoughtless
cruelty of one of them, whose Indian blood, I suppose, got
the better of him. I was just in time to save our little
visitor from having his neck wrung; strange to say, the
man, a good-natured fellow at heart, seemed surprised I
should care about such a trifle, though ready to oblige me
by setting his prisoner free.

August Sth. — 'The rain lasted all Saturday night, the
storm driving the water through my tent canvas in a constant
fine drizzle of spray ; by noon on Sunday it had partly cleared,
but continued cloudy and showery. This morning it was very
wet again ; after dinner, however, we determined to start, as
it seemed a little clearei. but it rained so heavily when we
set out that M'Kay and La Grace wanted to halt in about
an hour's time. This I objected to, so we went on and made
a march of about sixteen miles, camping at last on a pleasant
dry prairie instead of lingering among the long, wet, mos-
quito-stuffed grass in which we had spent our Sabbath — as
my Scotsmen called it in true Presbyterian fashion.

' Tliere was rain more oi' lv?ss all the afternoon, but we
were crossing an open plain, which looks less dismal than
the woods under such circumstances.'

We observed the track of a bear in a sandy place near
some patches of bush, l)ut the aninud himself was not forth-

coming.

AiKjusl 9th. — 'A mild misty morning, which clianged
into a cloudy showery day. ]\Iel an .Vmcrican, Mr. Hind,
M'ith a Saskatcliewan man driving pack-horses, on his roati
from E(hnonton to Carlton. He tells me that the neighbour-

CHAP. X.

FORT EDMONTON.

f \

hood of Jasper's House, a Fort iu the inouutains, is a good
country for game.

' While we were halting after dinuer, the horses happened
to move towards the camp, and foolish young Itowlaud must
needs come jumping along with his fore-feet close together as
if in liobbles, which, from late experiuuce, he fancied he had
on him, though in fact perfectly free. Tlie men were as
much a nused as I was, declaring they had never seen such
a thing before.

' Sometimes a horse will give two or three leaps just
after the hobbles are taken off, as if still feeling constrained,
but that is not surprising. No one had been near Eowland
since he was unsaddled, so there was nothing to remind
him of his fetters. He is raw and awkward and lazily
inclined, but I rather like him to ride. The Carlton Bichou
is very smart.

' Halted iu an open near a SM'ampy lake. Mosquitoes
very bad, worse I think this afternoon than I ever knew
them while actually on tlie march. At dinner time 1
lighted a small fire iu my tent, and found it answer well
in keeping them out.'

August 10//i. — 'Had the little prairie-fowls for break-
fast, the size of blai'kbirds and perfectly delicious.

' Our track still through a fiat country all wood and
swamp ; one can seldom see more than a hundred yards on
either side, seldom as much, indeed. Fine hot weather again.

' Camped for the night on a knoll a few hours from Ed-
monton, from which there was a beautiful view over a circle
of wooded plain, perfectly level excei)t where the steep north
bank of the river was discernible. My tent was just pitched
wlieu a heavy thunderstorm began, and lasted about an hour.
After this it cleared, and there was a lovely eflect caused by

.lii

14G

FORT CARLTON TO FORT EDMONTON. ciiap. x.

the setting sun ; on one side all was orange and gold, beneath
a black cloud which melted into misty gniy as it met the
bright tints of the sunlight, and on the opposite side moved
the dark departing thunder-cloud with a perfect rainbow
enamelled on its face.

'Sat up late reading "Much Ado about Nothing." . .
The wolves howled, the night was very cold.'

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CHAPTER XI.

ill

FORT EDMONTON.

August lltk. — it was yet early in the day when we
found ourselves looking down on the 1)road stream of the
Saskatchewan river, from the sunnnit of a high steep hnuk
directly opposite to Fort Edmonton. My men advanced and
saluted the Fort with a general volley fi3m their guns and
ritles, — a summons promptly answered by the despatch of a
boat, which in a short while ferried us across to the northern
shore. As we landed, Mr. Brazeau, the officer temporarily
in charge, and the Kev. Mr. Woolsey, the Wesleyan missionary
of the district, politely came forward to meet us und olfer
their friendly welcomes on our arrival.

The Fort, externally an oblong palisaded inclosure with
flanking towers at the corners, at once struck me as being con-
siderably larger than Fort Carlton, the buildings comprised
within its limits being likewise more important both in size
and character. Immediately in front of the principal gate-
way, the gromid fell suddenly in a deep and almost precipi-
tous descent to the ri^'er, which at this part seemed to carry
a great body of water, with an apparent Avidth of about 250
yards. Upstream the view was exceedingly pretty, for the
elevated banks which confined the channel were picturesquely
broken, and richly covered with an abundant growth of wood.

From each side of tiie enclosure there dvojiped a sudden
slope to level plateaus near tlie river-side, the eastmost of

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148

FORT EDMONTON.

ciiAi'. xr.

wliii'h was under eultiviition as an araltle faviu. Tlioy wero
cutting wheat at the time. It seemed a poorish crop ; but
I did not very closely examine it, and perhai)s there was
better grain elsewliere. A windmill placed upon the higher
gronnd at the back of the Fort betokened a certain amount
of agricultural business in tlie district.

AvijHst Vlth. — Tliis morning was occupied in consulta-
tion with ]\I'Kay in regard to the things that were to be
sent back to Carlton. Much had to be left behind, for our
cart had now to be given u]) as utterly unsuitable for the
lugged mountain-paths we were so soon to follow ; and
tra\elling witli pack-horses, \\liicli was now to be our plan,
obliges a very strict limitation of tlie weight and quantity
of one's baggage.

My journey, as roughly mai)])ed out, was to be thus
arranged : In the first instance, I meant to proceed straight
to Jas[»er's House Fort, and thence southwards along the
mountains by tlie Iroipiois track as far as the Kootanie
riain, or farther if time permitted; al'ter tliat, 1 intended to
cross the plains to Fort Carlton, so as to arrive there no
later than the 1st of October.

Anxious as I was to set out before the Ix'st of the
season sli[»j)ed by, I found myself oljliged to submit to a few
days' delay : for ])ack-saddles 1 ad to be made; horses to be
iMtught, hired, or exchanged ; pjovisions laid in ; a huntc!'
ac«[uainted with the mountains engaged ; and a guide pro-
cured who was known to the IMackfeet and able to in-
terpret their language, fur we were going into the cduntry
iidiabited by that tribe and fully expected to meet them.

At tliis time Mr. Woolsey was a temjKtrary inmate of the
Fort. We were \ery fre(piently t(»gethei", and had much
conversation on dillcreut subjects, amongst which I was

CHAr. XI.

FORT EDMONTON.

149

particulavly interested in tliose relating to liis own missionary
labonrs, and to the Indians under his spiritual care.

It was from him that I first heard some details al)()ut
the characters that had been invented by one of the Pro-
testant missionaries for the Crees, which, though of rather
recent introduction, had already got largely into use among
them for writing as well as reading purposes.

Owing to the nature of the language, which, it seems,
chiefly consists of a few simple syllables repeated in varying
combinations, syllabic signs had been found more suitable
than a strictly alphabetical plan ; the new characters had
therefore been arranged in <^roups of monosyllables, — every
group containing the same set of vowels, but each having
its own prefix which regulated the general form of the group-
character, while that in turn was systematically varied accord-
ing to its accompanying vowel. For example, (A, E, O, AH,
being the standard set of vowels), T, F, J, L, represent
Ma, Me, Mo, ]\Iah : q, p, d, b, represent Ka, Ko, Ko, Kah,
— and so on. There are also a few terminals, such as n for
S, I for r, — all the signs being of the simplest and plainest
nature. To represent a word, the a]»[)ropriate characters for
its different syllables are placed together in their order, each
succeeded by a terminal if necessary ;— thus P = se, A = pe,
in condjination HA = se-pe (river, as perhaps in Missi-t^ij^'i) ;
or J=mo, n = s, D = to, n = s; in combination, JnDn,
Mostos (Buflalo).

Besides showing me several books printed on this system,
Mr. Woolsey was good enough to write out for my use a
tabular list of characters and terminations ; he also gave me
a neat little Cree hymn-book as a specimen of the new
typogropliy.''"

* See Appendix.

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150

KOIl'l' EDMONTOX.

tiiAr. XI

' He iuronns me that he has baptized sev(M'al hunvhed
IiidiaiiM, ill every case Ixilieviiig he had sulUcient grounds
for (hting so.

'S|)(!akiii!4 of tlio Lirge contributions that are sent to the
AVesh'yan Missionary Fund, lie tohl me a curious story
about a subscription it liad lately received, which, in round
nund)ers, came to the extraordinary amount of X18,()()0.
The anecdote is as follows : —

'Mr. , ; poor man but ingenious, wi.shed to take

out a patent for a certain invention, but the means were
wanting. He prayed much and earnestly ou the subject,
and at length one day a Quaker co.me to him and said,
" Friend, 1 have an impression thou art in need (tf money."
Afr — — rejdied that it was so, and explained the case;
upon which ihe (J^uaker said, "Thou canst have as much as

thou wantest." Tiie invention succeeded, and Mr.

gave £1(10 to the Wesleyan Mission as a percentage on
the i)roiits. Next year, giving in the same proportion, he
increa,sed his subscription to £1 a day. Soon afterwards he
Iiought an estate in Ireland, in which was a copper-mine
s(:]i))Osed to be exhausted ; he found a fresh vein of ore, and
nioney poured in. He then laid by for the mission £7 a
('Mv; and at length his gains became so great that, with
clmiiks to God for increasing his fortune sevenfold, he began
to de\fite £49 a day, which by the end of the year had
accumulated into tlie magniticent donation referred to
above.'

' On tlie subject of the Cree language, Mr. Woolsey told
nw. that ulie.) .^peaking of certain tilings, such as horses,
dogs, etc., one must n(»t put the pronoun "my" before the
noun, but use an altogether ditfeient word ; for otherwi.se,
according to tlie idiom, you would lie claiming identity with

CIIAI*. XI.

KOIIT EDMONTON.

lf)l

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the object you merely meant to claiin as your own. There
was a certain missionary who wisht d to call some Indians
to drive away one of his pigs, which was doing mis -hief.
Being ignorant of the idiom, instead of expressing himself
us he intended, he ran shouting about the place — " I am a
lug, I am a pig," to the great delight of the natives.'"'

' Mr. Woolsey has a high opinion of the Blackfeet.
They are very fond of Englishmen, and call them Na-pi-quan,
which means " white man," as a term of honour. The
Yankees they dislike.

' One cold day a I'lickfoot appeared with nothing on him
but a single wretchea Oi ket. To account for his miseirdile
condition, he explains ,, mo of his children having i ied,
everybody, according; to the custom of the tribe, had rushed
into his tent and taken possession of all he had, not even
sparing his clothes. The truth of this being ascertained,
the Indian was presented with various things to help him
in his need.'

'Mr. Ih'azeau, who is an .American by birth, informs me
that he lived for a great many years in the Missouri iiiid
Yellowstone country. He confirms all Catlin's statements
about t' e Mandaus, especially as to their customs of cruel
si'lf-torLure ; he also atlirms the truth and accuracy of
Catlin's Indian portraits, -which some shallow people have
attempted to discredit.

' Were an angel to write his travels, the tiend woidd
inspire some weak creature to pour doubts and sneers and
small Jokes over the book. Every man who has not spent
his life in a London garret has seen and done some things

* 1 liiivi-' lii'unl siuiilar stories al'out missionaries in the South Sea Islumis.
'I'o the best ol'niy recollection Mr. Woolsey did not vouch for the truth of the
anecdote, l)ut only for its possibility.

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162

FORT EDMONTON.

CHAP. XI.

removed from commonplace experience, and therefore start-
ling to many on first hearing of them ; but I hold ihat when
a man of good reputation states a thing as a fact, it is as
great a treason to honour to doubt him, as it would be to
accuse him wantonly of forgery or theft. Indeed these
town critics are apt to expose nothing but their own igno-
rance in carping at books of foreign travel, — much as if a
Blackfoot Indian were to argue with a cockney on questions
of London life and manners. Hear them, for instance, on
Gordon Gumming and his vast herds of antelopes — but satis!'

Augmt 13 th. — A number of dogs made a disturbance
about midnight by howling and fighting in the passages
outside my room. One white wolfish brute began to peer
in at the windows, wliich happened to look into a verandah,
then several others came crowding up, and they seemed
half inclined to break through. I prevented all risk of that
trespass by whipping them down stairs and shutting the
outer door, which some one had carelessly left open — an
invitation not likely to be neglected by these greedy animals.
No doubt they had supposed the house to be empty, none of
the rooms but my own being occupied at night, the others,
such as the large dining-room below, being only made use
of in the day-time.

' There are more dogs here than at any place I know.
They are mostly of the ordinary Indian kind, large and
long-legged and wolfish, with sharp muzzles, pricked ears,
and thick, straight, wiry hair. Wliite is one of the most
usual colours, but brown, blue-grey, red, yellow, and white
marked with spots of black or of the other various hues,
are also common. Some of them are black with white
paws, others are covered with long rough hair like Russian
setters. There are others of a light bluish-grey, with dark.

T.pl

CHAP. XI.

FORT EDMONTON.

153

almost black, spots spread over the whole body, a variety
which is said to be frequent in the Blackfoot camps.
Almost all of them have black noses, but with some of
the lighter-coloured ones this part is red, brown, or pink,
which has a very ugly effect.'

Most of them are very wolfish in appearance, many
being half or partly, or aU but entirely, wolves in blood.
One dark grey dog, indeed, was said to be almost a pure
wolf, and bore the appropriate name of Mihekan, the term
for that beast in Cree.^^ Seeing him on the plains it would
be impossible to distinguish him from a common wolf of
the middle-sized variety, and his temper was spoken of as
a match for his looks. To do him justice, he behaved in a
very friendly way when his handsome appearance led me
to notice him, coming obediently at my call and allowing
me to pat liim on the head. Had I been aware of his
character I should probably have let him alone. Dr.
Hector, to whom this dog belonged, afterwards told me
that before harnessing or unharnessing they were obliged to
stun it with a blow on the nose, on account of its savage
nature. Some of the others, however, were nearly as bad,
and needed a taste of the same rough discipline.

Many of the male dogs of this wolfish sort had been emas-
cidated, to tame their fierceness and spirit without spoiling
them for work. Mihekan had been so treated, and poor
good-natured Whisky was another example, though in his
case it must certainly have been an act of supererogation.

In winter these dogs draw sleighs and do nearly all the
work of the country ; at other seasons they do nothing for
man, but pass their time in war, love, robbery, and music.

* " Mahaygan — Cree Indians." Kichardson, Faun. Bor. Am., vol. i. 66.
My spelling represents the pronunciation of the word as I heard it.

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154

FORT EDMONTON.

CHAP. XI.

7 ;■»;•■

Neglected as these noisy, dirty animals are in their months
of idleness, unfed, kept in bare life by plunder, the mark
for every passer's stick or stone, they are highly valued by
their owners, and a team of fine, good, well-trained dogs
will bring a handsome price, especially when the winter
snows begin to come on.

' Eead Lewis and Clarke's travels, finished Harmon's
Journal, also read most of Father De Smet's missionary
travels. The latter gives an interesting account of the
conversion of many of the Kootanie and Flat-head Indians.
From the exaggerated, forcible-feeble style of the writer I
felt inclined to doubt if his success had equalled his belief
in it ; but Mr. Brazeau assured me that these Indians were
now really good Christians, truthful, brave, and moral, and
so honest that if they find even the smallest thing, such as
a pocket knife or a piece of tobacco, they will bring it to
the camp of the probable loser and cry it up and down till
he is discovered.

'Mr. Brazeau considers that, to the west of the mountains,
the Eoman Catholics have wrought a great work of reforma-
tion among the natives — God speed them, say I with all
my heart. In this district, however, he considers that
Protestant and Roman Catholic teachers alike have little
influence for good. The Indians listen to them, pretend
to believe and obey, and obtain baptism, but as soon as
the missionary takes his leave they relapse into their
former practices. All with whom I have conversed agree
in thinking that little or nothing can be done to improve
the adults of the Cree, Ojibw Vssiuiboine, or Blackfoot
tribes, and believe that the on.^ aope lies in teaching and
influencing the young, Ijefore evil and reckless habits become
a part of their nature.

I i.

CHAP. XI.

FORT EDMONTON.

165

' It seems to me (and to my informants also) that the
clergy of every sect make a great mistake in obliging con-
verted Indians who have several wives to put away all
but one. A Blackfoot chief lately spoke good sense on
this subject. " Tell the priest," he said to Mr. Brazeau^
" that if he wishes to do anything with my people he must
no longer order them to put away their wives. I have eight,
all of whom I love, and who all have children by me —
which am I to keep and which put away ? Tell those who
have only one wife not to take more, but do not talk about
putting away wives already married."

'This chief, however, injured the moral force of his
remarks by going on to say that his eight wives could
dress a hundred and fifty skins in the year, whereas a
single wife could only dress ten, supposing she were always
well, and that such a loss of property was not to be thought
of. He also told the priest not to object to rum-drinking,
as the love of it formed part of the very nature of his
people. These evils, he said, time might cure, but they
must not be too vehemently opposed at present.

'However plainly self-interest betrays itself in tliis
speech, however impossible it would be to lower Christ-
ianity by sanctioning drunkenness, some of the Indian's
words appear to me not unworthy of attention. Let the
injury done to the affections of husband and wives, and
the cruelty of depriving so many women and children of
their protectors, be weighed against the considerations that
prevent polygamy among civilised people, and surely, in the
absence of a direct divine conmiand, the former will bear
down the scale. There is no absolute conmiandmeut against
polygamy, though its inexpediency might be inferred from
Christ's reference to the original order of creation ; but

'f '/i

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III

150

FOET EDMONTON.

CHAP. XT.

while things inexpedient may become things unlawful to the
enlightened man, the case of the unenlightened is widely
different ; and the mere telling of truths to a savage no
more amounts to the making him an enlightened man, than
shooting a turnip from a cannon through the body of an
ox would amount to feeding him for a year, and letting
him gain fatness by processes neither you nor he could
entirely explain.

' We must remember that polygamy was allowed to the
Jews, and in certain cases even commanded ; and it upsets
all ideas of right and wrong to assert that the Almighty
would in any case command what is evil in its very essence; —
to love God would be impossible for an upright mind were
such a procedure fully apprehended as conceivable. In his
Epistle to Timothy, St. Paul decrees that a bishop must
be the " husband of one wife," thus plainly declaring that
persons differently circumstanced were to be found within
the Christian pale ; if this be admitted, we obtain a guiding
star to follow if we choose.

' Dr. Livingstone, in dealing with the African savages,
allowed them full liberty with regard to their supernumerary
wives, merely recommending separation if practicable, and
forbidding polygamy in future. The result was that his
sincerer converts in course of time endeavoured to follow his
advice, from anxiety to reach to the utmost heights of Chris-
tian excellence, instead of, like too many American Indians,
humouring the missionary and obtaining baptism by feigned
compliances offered from interested motives and evaded at
the first opportunity.

' I was amused in Father De Smet's letters to read the
following remarks on the fastings of the Indian warriors: —
" Before setting out for war they observe a strict fast. . . .

fc
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tl

CHAP. XI.

FORT EDMONTON.

167

for four days. During this interval their imagination is
excited to madness, and either from the effect of weakness
or the warlike projects which fill their minds, they pretend
that they have extraordinary visions." For "warlike pro-
jects" substitute "religious fervours," and strike out "pretend"
as uncharitable, and the Eeverend Father has philosophically
accounted for various miracles believed in by the more
ignorant of his own church 1 ' [So far good, but — to my
former self I say it — There are more things in heaven and
earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy.]

This afternoon a man brought for my inspection a fine-
looking red-dim horse, which he wished to exchange for
Cendrd. It was branded on the shoulder with an open
hand, and on the quarter with a figure very like a gallows
though really meant to represent a man, — marks signifying
that some former Indian owner had killed an enemy off
this horse's back. Its age seemed about the same as
Cendr^'s, but it was in better travelling condition. The
man declared that he wanted my horse, because having bred
it he felt an affection for the animal, and regretted that it
should go to certain death on a journey so much beyond its
powers. Believing this to be partly a hond fide reason, I
consented to try the red horse on the following Monday,
with some idea of agreeing to the bargain if I found him
suit. Wawpooss being evidently unfit for farther travels, I
gave him in exchange for a very pretty young cream-coloured
pony. My men had plenty of work in shoeing the horses.
Old Wawbee in particular showed great vice, and had to
be cast and fastened before anything could be done with
him.

Sunday, August lUh. — 'After breakfast we had service
in the large dining-room, at which a number of the men

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FORT EDMONTON.

OHAP. X[.

and one or two women were present. Mr. Woolsey read
the liturgy without the litany^ and afterwards preached a
sermon.

' We had another service in the evening. A converted
Indian officiated as clerk and led the singing, and but for
some trifling mispronunciations one could hardly have
known him from an Englishman acting in the same
capacities. While we sat in solemn silence just before
prayers began, a little boy ran down the passage outside,
and suddenly struck up an Indian war-song — " Hi, hi, —
ah, he, — ah" — or some such sounds, in the shrillest of
tones, half yelp, half howl, with an inconceivably ridicidous
effect. There was a momentary struggle, then one universal
roar of laughter.

' In all Indian music that I have heard there is a re-
markable likeness to the howling of wolves, mingled with
the droning growl of a bear. The Blackfeet, however, are
said not only to excel aU other tribes in music, but to have
really fine voices.'

August 15th. — After arranging an exchange of Nez-
blanc and Gris for two sound usefid animals, I rode with Mr.
Brazeau to the haymakers' tents, taking the opportunity of
trying the red-dun horse that had Blackfoot hieroglyphics
on his skin. He carried me pleasantly and well, but I
observed a suspicious lump on one of his forelegs near the
fetlock, which decided me to keep my own good horse,
though he was in such poor condition. It woidd have been
a mistake to do otherwise, for, besides his inferiority to my
Cendrd, the dun, as I afterwards discovered, had a trick of
turning lame after a few days of steady hard work.

Again I had cause to admire the fine riding of the boys.
Little fellows ten or twelve years old would jump on the

xr.

OHAP. XI.

FORT EDMONTON.

lfi9

back of any horse they could lay hands on, and gallop him
about the place, with no saddle at all, and with no better
bridle than a cord round his lower jaw. They were perfectly
fearless, and sat their horses with a firmness, spirit, and
grace very beautifid to see, guiding them at their will by
movements scarcely discernible.

I now succeeded in engaging a guide for the mountains,
an oldish I rench half-breed, named Antoine Blandoine, an
experienced hunter, and well acquainted with most of the
country we intended to visit. He was to have the same
pay as some of my other men, viz. JE5 a month, — his pay to
continue till his return to Edmonton.

As I was smoking at the gate of the Fort, Lapataque —
the principal Cree chief, though for many years he had
hunted for the Company — -happened to be standing near me.
Wishing to 'ight my pipe, I brought out some ordinary
fusees, which seemed to be so much of a novelty to Lapa-
taque that I gave him two or three from my box as speci-
mens. I was afterwards surprised to hear that he had been
highly pleased with this trivial present, going to one of his
friends expressly to show him the matches, and tell that
they had been given him by the "chief" himself. 'This
shows how far very small kindnesses will go with an
Indian of the right sort.'

'Mr. Brazeau was umoking in my roo t^ after supper,
and gave me a great deal of interesting info: mation. He
again vouched for the truth of Catlin's book, and further
mentioned to me that he had signed one of the letters, in
the first volume of that work, which testify to its perfect
accuracy.*

' He told me that at the American forts the British flag

• Catlin, A^orth American Indians, vol. i. pp. 11-13.

160

FORT EDMONTON.

CHAP. Xf.

m.i

is treated with the grealest respect, aud in proof men-
tioned that a young man at one of these forts having
taken a Union Jack from the hands of an Indian who had
come to trade, and kicked it about, the superintendent lec-
tured him publicly, and made him pay the Indian a very
heavy fine. On other occasions Indians have received pre-
sents at the American forts for the special reason tliat they
were wearing British medals. At our own forts the Ameri-
can flags, which the Blackfeet often bring with them, are
treated with corresponding respect, and are spoken of to the
Indians as " good " flags.'

In answer to some remark of mine about Pe-toh-pee-
kiss (The Eagle-ribs), a Blackfoot, whose portrait is in
Catlin's work, Mr. Brazeau assured me that that Indian
was a great warrior indeed, and a very noble fellow. No
less than eleven white men, chiefly free trappers, had met
their death at his hands. In most cases, however, they had
brought this fate upon themselves, for Pe-toh-pee-kiss had
slain them in self-defence against treacherous attacks made
on him during his different attempts to arrange a truce.

On one occasion he had charge of letters for a Mr.
Vanderbirt, but that gentleman being at the head of a
large party it was not safe to approach him rashly, so
Eagle-ribs and his people halted in concealment a little
way off, to paint themselves and prepare for a formal
advance. Meanwhile, however, Mr. Vanderbirt and three
of his men went forward to reconnoitre, the discovery of
a newly killed buffalo having raised the suspicions of the
party, though their leader himself would not believe that
any Indians were near.

These reconnoitrers unluckily rode straight into the
middle of the concealed Blackfeet, who quietly formed a

i^tH

':„«»*-'.

CIIAI'. XI.

I'ORT EDMONTON.

101

circle round them, then siuUlenly sprang up and attempted
to seize them, — with no bad intention, but merely to secure
hostages for their own safety when approaching the white
men's camp. Mr. Vanderbirt, however, at once fired at the
nearest Indian, killing him on the spot, and then rode for
his life, but ere he had well started his horse was shot, and
in falling pinned his leg to the ground.

He rose on one knee, drew a pistol, and drove the muzzle
into the face of an Indian who was rushing upon him,
I)ulling the trigger at the same time ; but he had not
observed tliat the cock was bolted, there was no discharge,
and he only succeeded in gashing his opponent's cheek by
the force of his blow. The other Indians immediately took
their knives and cut Mr. Vanderbirt in pieces.

Pe-toh-pee-kiss soon afterwards came to Mr. Brazeau
and explained the occurrence. He brought with him the
unfortunate man's pistols — which were subsequently sent to
his relations, — the riHe he could not bring, for it had been
buried beside the warrior it had slain.

'A short while after this event, l*e-toh-pee-kis3 went
towards an American party and attempted to treat for peace.
A few Americans rode to meet him, headed by a man named
Bridger. This villain, desiring revenge on the Blackfoot,
treacherously concealed his riile between his leg and the
saddle, and, when stooping down to shake hands with Eagle-
ribs, he secretly pushed the weapon forward and fired.
Happily the Indian saw the trick in time to save himself,
though the bullet cut away the powder-horn that hung on his
chest. Upon this the Blackfeet fired at Bridger slightly
Avounding him, and as he galloped off lodged several arrows
in the lower part of his back. Seeing his condition, a man
who was on baddish terms with him, Black Harris by

• * i

aii^;.

1G2

FOllT EDMONTON.

CHAP. XI.

In, ',

'^ ■;

'i'l

T^^

name, mock injrly iniisd out — " ITulloa I Briilper, what's tho

miittor now?" "Only Homo featlicrs in my ,"

answered liriil^'or, who was a coarse feUow. His conduct
was much blamed by his companions.

' One of the jtarty was a Spaniard, who was married to
a Blackfoot woman. She had just then ridden over to tho
Indians to see her brothers, and to interpret between the two
sides. As soon as the firing began tho Indians seized her,
but her horse escaped and came back to the Americans, with
her little baby hanging to the saddle in its upright cradle of
boards. If i)artcd from its mother tho child was sure to die ;
so the poor father declared he would risk his own life for its
sake, and he rode boldly with it to the lUackfeet. They
received him kindly, and gave the baby to its 'mother, but
refused to let her go back. They invited her husband,
instead, to join their tribe. He eouhl not do so then, he
told them, for he was under other engagemQuts, but without
fail he wouhl come to them in a few months : they let him
go, and he faithfully kept his word.'

Te-toh-pee-kiss (Petoch-peki'ss, as Mr. Brazeau pro-
nounces it) is a Blood Indian. There are three tribes of the
great Blackfoot nation, — viz. the Black feet, the Blood Indians,
and the Biegans, all of whom speak the same language and
live in close alliance. [The Fall Indians, also, are of the
same race.] It is easy, I am told, to distinguish them apart
by differences of dialect and pronunciation, like those in the
various districts of England ox, Scotland ; besides, the Blood
Indians dress more neatly and are finer and bolder looking men
than the Blackfeet, who in turn surpass the Piegans in these
respects.

' The Blood Indians have among them a number of com-
paratively fair men, with grey eyes, and hair both finer and

'. >

CHAP. XI,

FORT EDMONTON.

163

lighter coloured than usual in the case of pure Tndimis.
Pe-toh-po-ki.s.s i.s a man of this coiuplcxion. This tribe is
supposed to bear its savage name, not from any peculiar
cruelty of disposition, but because, unlike the tither tribes,
its warriors do not steal horses, but only siiek for the blood
of their enemies, whom they generally overcome, for they
are among the bravest of all the natives.

* The lilackfeet are a livelier race than the Crees. The
latter are quarrelsome when in liquor, while the former show
their jollity by dancing, singing, and laugliing, and kissing
and hugging one another with all sorts of absurd antics.
Though so fond of rum the Blackfeet are not hal)itual drunk-
ards. They get completely drunk once or twice a year, but
at other times take nothing stronger than the cotl'ee which
the American Government sends them as part of an annual
subsidy — for a great part of their territory lies south of the
British frontier* They consider — and not without some
reason — that their periodical excesses are good for them,
curing the biliousness caused by their mode of living.

' In the British territory most of the white men who have
got Indian wives are married to Crees, but some have allied
themselves with the Blackfeet, and it is said that the women
of that tribe never desert their husbands as the others some-
times do. On tlie American side there are comparatively
few half-breeds, and few or none of them are past middle
age ; while across the border, in the Company's domains, there
are grandfathers of mixed blood whose own grandfathers
were half-breeds.

' Mr. Brazeau tells me that the only Indians whose women
are chaste are the Sioux, who at least equal Europeans in
this respect. The Mandans and Crows, on the other hand,
are particularly bad in their morals. The Sioux, of all

' ■

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I 'I

'', ■■

164

FORT EDMONTON.

CIIAl'. XI.

Indians, are those wlio moat keep to their old mode of dress ;
the Blackfeet and the rest are all rapidly adopting blankets
and capots, and giving np the beantifnlly painted robes of
their forefathers. The few painted robes that are now made
are inferior in workmanship to those of days gone by,*

August lQ)th. — The rain had at last disappeared and
bright snnshiue come in its place ; the weather looked invit-
ing for a journey. Mr. Woolsey left the Fort that morning,
and set out on one of his missionary expeditions, and by the
following day I earnestly hoped to get away also. Nothing
Avas wanting for my departure bnt the arrival of Piskau
Muuroe, a Scotch half-breed, whom it was important to engage
as interpreter, for he not only knew the Blackfoot language,
but was on intimate terms with the tribe, being closely
connected with it by blood. He was now daily expected.

I added another horse to my lot by exchanging the
Colt's carbine for a iiseful sort of animal, receiving a trade-
gun as make-weight besides : I did not think it a very good
bargain, but horses were a necessity, and I was glad to
obtain them on any fairly reasonable terms.

Whilst staying at the Fort I bought from a half-breed a
knife of what is called tlie "dag" pattern, a heavy. Hat,
double-edged blade al)out eight inches long, of triangular
shape, tapering to a point from a width of some two and a
half inches at tlie base. The Edmonton hunters always
carry very strong and large knives, for the purpose of cut-
ting through branches when traversing the dense fir woods
that cover a great part of the country ; some of them
use extremely lieavy ones, half knife half axe, — like a
narrow sort of butclier's cleaver with a point instead of a
sfpiared-off end, or i)erha])s more resembling the peculiar
oriental sword sn (iflen represented in old pictures and

niAP. XI.

FORT EDMONTON.

165

engravings. Indeed, I have been told that these demi-bills
were originally copied from a weapon borne by one of the
hill tribes in India

My " dag " is mounted with a curious bone hilt made
for it by its former owner, and fits into a moose leather
sheath embroidered handsomely with bead-work in a simple
but very rich and effective pattern.

w..

' 1

•I '^^'i'

i;i)M()NT()N lirNTEli S l)A(;

■ il

CHAPTER XII.

FORT EDMONTON TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

A. UGUST 17th. — It was late in the afternoon before Ave got
away from Edmonton, and we had only accomplished five
miles when our camping time arrived. We halted by the
side of a snuill lake. The night Avas beautifully clear and
starry, with an aurora glancing in the skies ; I was glad to be
once more under canvas, amidst the odours and sights and
sounds of free nature. The grass was glittering Avith dew ;
it grew rank and high, but luxuriant as it Avas, there were
no mosquitoes harbouring in it. Some touch of frost had
doubtless annihilated them, for the extreme sharpness of
the air as night Avore on, shoAved only too plainly that sum-
mer was gone by, and that even the sunniest days Avould
now be folloAved by hard and bitter nights.

August ISth. — There Avas pleasant traA'elling to-day,
through a pretty country, — wooded for the most part, except
Avhere a great fire had done its Avork of destruction, leaving
only the timber that Avas gi'OAving in the deeper holloAvs.
Firs now appeared plentifully in the forest, and the trees Avere
altogether larger than any Ave had lately met Avith. ToAvards
afternoon Ave entered a very hilly district, studded Avith nume-
rous small lakes, and covered Avith tlie richest grass ; we
rode on till dusk, and finally camped at a place about ten
miles distant from tlie mission settlement of Lake St. Ann.

August 19 fh. — When not far from St. Ann Ave Avere met
by Mr. Moberly, of the Company's service, Avho Avas making

'It

CHAP. XII.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,

167

liis retur" iVorn Jasper's House, where he had till lately been
officer ii ■ 'large. He obligingly halted with ns for an hour
or two, while I wrote some letters to go with his party.

His account of the post he had so recently quitted was
very far from encouraging : — no game in the neighbourhood ;
the people starving, and making haste to leave the desolated
place. He advised me not to waste time by going to Jasper's
House, but to track up the M'Leod river, which would bring
me sooner to the mountains, and save me a perfectly useless
round. The highest peaks, he informed me, rose near the
point at which I should in that case enter ; and southwards
from thence to the head of the South Saskatchewan, there
extended about a ten days' march of country, which, as he
believed, no European had ever seen (one half-breed hunter,
perhaps, had long ago been there, but it was very doubtful),
where bears and wild sheep were certain to be abundant.
Should we meet a hunter named Paulette, as would probably
happen, he strongly advised me to engage him. If I made
this journey, however, it would be impossible to get back
to Carlton before the end of October — Be it so ! said I.

On our arrival at St. Ann, we proceeded to the mission-
house, where we met with a most cordial reception. — ' Had
the pleasure of dining with Peres Lacome and Le Frain
at the Eoman Catholic mission-house — agreeable men and
perfect gentlemen. What an advantage Eome has in this
respect — Protestants constantly send vulgar, underbred folk
to supply their missions, Rome sends polished, highly-educated
gentlemen. Then how much the best is her mode of addres-
sing the Indian mind ; — for example, every Indian who joins
the Mission Temperance Society is given a handsome model
to wear.' [This appeals to their pride or vanity, and is far
more effectual than mere dry exhortations.]

„.-,..„ I

1G8

FORT EDMONTON TO

OIIAV. XII.

On the pressing invitation of my kind hosts I remained
for the night at the mission-house. — 'Everything there is
wonderfully neat and flourishing, it is a true oasis in the
desert. The cows fat and fine, the horses the same, the dogs,
the very cats, the same. A well-arranged and well-kept garden,
gay with many flowers — [some of them the commonest flowers
of the woods and j)lains, brought to perfection by care and
labour]. The house beaTitifully clean ; the meals served up
as in a gentleman's dining-room. Excellent preserves of
service-berries and wild raspberries ; — everything made use
of and turned to account.'

Surrounded by such comfort and refinement, and in the
society of such agreeable entertainers, I passed a most plea-
sant evening, one that often recalled itself to my memory
amidst the experiences of later times.

The rooms were decorated with religious prints, and there
Avas likewise a good library of books of a similar character.
In my own bedroom were several of the latter, which I looked
through with interest, among them, however, was one which
it surprised me to find in such honourable company — a cheap
Dublin publication called Tlic Life of the Vir<jhi Mary, a
pamphlet, ' full of falsehoods as gravely told and reasoned on
as any chapter in Baron ^Munchausen's travels.' [Such
childish fables, though possibly attractive to simple-minded
people in other lands, seemed to me ill adapted to impress
the Indians, who are not wanting in shrewdness, and whose
own supernaturalism is of a grave and sombre character.
But the success of the mission convinces one that this
foolish book could not have been in general use, whatever
accident had brought it all the way from Ireland.]

' Lake St, Ann is a sheet of water about seven miles long.
The Indians call it Great Spirit Lake ; it is also known by

CHAP. xir.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

109

the name of God's Lake.' [It was sometimes designated Manito
Lake, which merely means Spirit Lake, a prefix being required
to denote whether a good or an evil spirit is intended.]

August 20th. — Much as I liked St. Ann I should not
have stayed there so long, time being precious, but for the
hope of buying a few more horses. There was one black cob
in particular that I greatly fancied, but I found he was not to
be thought of, having been given to the missionaries as a
token of gratitude by an Indian who had met with some
remarkable kindness at their hands, Pere Lacome, however,
anxious to oblige me, though the mission itself was not over
well supplied, brought me two veiy good horses this morning,
— one of them a fine strong cendre, the other a useful bay, —
which I bought for £19 apiece ; at the same time I purchased
a bag of excellent pemmican. I also bought from M. Andre
Cardinal, for £20, a large brown horse that went by the
name of " Brun Farouche."

* I felt quite sorry to leave St, Ann, all was so kindly and
pleasant at the Mission. The good fathers loaded us with
provisions — fish, potatoes, dried meat, etc. God bless them
and prosper their mission ! '

It was about 11 o'clock when we set out; we dined at
Sturgeon Creek, and halted for the night on the shore of Lac
dcs Isles, a narrow lake about twelve miles long, with many
low wooded islands. 'The whole of the day our road was
extremely bad, running through dense woods, chiefly of poplar
brush with a few firs, and often through deep morasses filled
with fallen timber. It was one incessant struggle. There
was no longer a road wide enough for carts, only a narrow
foot track, and the horses had to force their way through the
brusli, which tore everything to pieces. One's gun had to be
carried under the arm instead of across tlie saddle, which was

■■!;f:^

■*iw»wiiiiwi n..jj,j i !- ■ - ■■

170

FORT EDMONTON TO

CHAl'. XII.

|:^

- -'i

-J J
i

■ 'f.

-' 1

i-^

very tiring at first, especially with a strong double-barrelled
rifle like mine. I rode the Pitt Bichon after dinner. He is
not good in mire, and rolled over on his side in one deep place,
after sticking on the concealed trunk of a sunken tree.*

The day had been fine and sunny, it was succeeded by a
brilliant starlit night. As I stood at my tent-door a little
after midnight, I beheld in the heavens before me the magnifi-
cent Orion group, and Aldebaran with his kindred stars, con-
stellations I had not looked on for many a week ; but the
beautiful luminary Spica Virginis was no longer visible.

Sunday, Av,giist 2\st. — Our camping ground was bad, so
we marched a few miles along a better road than yesterday's,
and halted when we came to a sort of prairie on a hill at the
end of the Lac des Isles.

August 22d. — Matheson was taken ill in the night, and
continued in a good deal of suffering. I prescribed some
simple remedies from my medicine store, and by evening he
was nearly well again.

Soon after starting we crossed Pembina Eiver, a shallow
stream about sixty yards wide, flowing in a rapid current over
a bed of stones and gravel. The banks were very pretty ; not
monotonous, but broken and varied like those of a liighland
river. Not more than half-a-mile of its course could be seen
from our crossing-place ; below us it wound out of sight, be-
tween high steep banks with rocks breaking through the soil
and trees scattered here and there ; upstream, the shores were
lower and less rugged, but, immediately above us, the right-
hand bank was perfectly Jjare of wood, and shaped itself into
a high terrace of almost artificial appearance, carpeted all over
with short and mossy turf.

Our dinner lialt was beside Buffalo Creek, a flat-shored,
stony-bedded stream, smaller and less rapid than the Pembina.

;ii!

CHAV. XII.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

171

A quantity of tree8, long ago cut down by beavers, lay scattered
about the place, and when we camped at sunset we saw
more of their work, for our tents were pitched on a meadow
of the richest pasturage, which had once been the bed of a
lake formed by these curious animals in days gone by. The
dams were almost entire, and very easily traceable, though
quite overgrown with gi'ass and herbage.

The country, all that day, was tolerably dry, though
thickly covered with wood, and flat for the most part, except
at the descents into river valleys ; the track was better than
it sometimes had been, but we had hard fighting to get
through the brush, which was chiefly poplar intermixed with
young firs, with a few larger ones here and there.

No woollen clothes, but the stoutest, can stand against
these horrible thickets, full of sharp ends of broken branches
of dead fir-trees concealed among the unyielding foliage of
the young poplars. Fortunately I had clad myself in Mr.
Hardisty's present — the leather hunting-shirt, which was
very comfortable, as well as a complete protection against the
hardened spikes that met one at every turn. All the men had
come out in leather since we entered the wood country, and
looked infinitely more picturesque and sportsmanlike than
when dressed in their blue cloth capots. Some of them had
mounted little blue caps, covered with streamers of ribbon
of different colours, — after the gay fashion of Saskatchewan-
land, where taste seems freer to indulge its fancies than
in the graver regions of Fort Garry.

No traces of large game had yet appeared, but there
were vast numbers of ducks ; Munroe and Antoine, who had
walked on in advance, brought in ten couple of them, and
could easily have shot more. We also saw a good many
pigeons, one of which I shot with my rifle. They were plump,
compact little birds, and made delicious eating.

■'i !

'J ii

[

1/ [,i'

•i u

^ I

172

FORT EDMONTOIV TO

CHAP. XII.

August 23</. — The country coutimied much the same in
character, but, for the first time, a lew larches showed them-
selves. Not a tree of any size was visible ; one everywhere
beheld the ruins of burnt pines, amidst hosts of poplars and
young seedlings, cliiefly of the Black American and Scotch
Fir varieties, already nearly filling up the vacant ground.
To-day we were constantly among alder brush, and had much
trouble and difficulty in getting through it.

One of the horses belonging to the Company's lot strayed
from the others, and thougli Mackay followed it a long way
into tlie thickets he finally lost its track, and wo never
lieard of it again. [When this happens, a horse is sometimes
recovered long afterwards ; but it more often pei;ishes, espe-
cially if it has strayed towards the winter time, and at any
rate it seldom comes back to the rightfid owner.]

After dinner I rode forward with Andre Cardinal (who
was accompanying us for part of tlie journey), and made some
good rifle practice at birds on the trees near tlie track side,
shooting, throngli the neck or head, one "partridge," — or rather
grouse, of the sort tliat jierches in trees, and tastes of fir-tops,*
— and two pigeons, the latter at forty and seventy yards.

Our camp for the night was formed beside Buffalo Creek,
which we had crossed the previous day, and now re-crossed.
There was a glimpse of the outskirts of the mountains in the
direction of the Athabasca, but it was a dim and far-off view,
many a long mile having to be accomplished ere we could
traverse the intervening space.

August 24th. — There were distant thunderstorms and
threatenings of rain all night, but the weather kept fair

* Ti'trao Canadensis. The Spotted Groime. Wood, or Sprme, or Stcnwji
Partridge — HudBoti's Hay Residents. Miatic-apcctheyoo, or JiHthinyoo-apccl/ic.-
yoo — Crees. Le J'erdrix dn mvniine — French Canadians. ItrcuAUDSON, —
Faun. JJur.-Aiii., vol. ii. j>. 34H.

';iiAi'. xir.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

173

though very cold, and after dawn the sun came out brilliantly.
Two more of the horses chose to wander, but they were
recovered without much trouble, and then we began a very
hard and toilsome march, plunging through bogs — which, in
Cree fashion, we commonly called " Muskegs " — and forcing
a passage through brush and thickets of young pine. Our
track fortunately kept pretty level, though the country was
inclined to hilliness. In course of the day we crossed the
forks of a tributary of the M'Leod, — two streams known as
Les Deux Rivieres, clear mountain rivulets running swiftly
over thin beds of gravel, — and about 5 p.m. we came to
another stream, named Thick Brush Creek, where we found a
Jasper's House Iroquois camping with his family, consisting
of his wife, two children, and a servant girl.

As it was then too late to go on to the M'Leod river, the
road being bad and destitute of camping-ground, we deter-
mined to halt where we were ; accordingly we pitched our
tents not far from the place chosen by our new friends.

This had been a most fatiguing day. In many parts the
track was barely wide enough for a loaded animal to pass
between the trees, and it was generally so soft and deep, from
the effects of former traffic on such wet and sponge-like soil,
that the horses were for ever trying to escape from the
treacherous boggy ditch in which they found themselves.
Leaping to one or other side of the trench, they endeavoured
to make their way along the firmer margin ; but there was
seldom much room there, so after a struggle that displaced
or scattered their packs, down they inevitably plunged, and
continued their floundering in the mire. In riding it was
the same thing ; no power or skill could keep one's horse
in the narrow, slimy track. So at least I found it, and by
the end of the day my knees were one mass of bruises,

■ I

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174

FORT EDMONTON TO

("11 AT. XI r.

i R

in.;:

from cannoning off the fir stems, when Itowland made
sudden dashes for the bank, or attempted to rush into some
opening where the trees grew wide enough apart to allow a
passage for himself, though none for his rider's limbs.

^ly arms were worn out from carrying the rifle, without
support, during such long-continued exertions. — 'Quite ex-
hausted .... tired, and disgusted at the small progress

we are making Thank God, however, I am in good

health ; and cannot remember having yet yielded to fatigue,
or allowed anything but reason or sport to prevent me from
pressing forward. If ever I get home I shall know how to
appreciate comfort. Still, health is better than comfort.'

That evening I read with particular pleasure some articles
in the U'orth British Review, of which I had lately got a few
numbers at one of the forts. [I believe intellectual reading,
in moderation, to be a rest for the body after hard labour :
it seems to act as a counter-irritant, drawing off fatigue from
the muscles to the brain.]

While passing through a sandy place, where the fir-tree
roots ran near to the surface of the ground, ^latheson's
horse happened to disturb a wasp's nest ; — then such a scene
began ! Frantic with terror, the horses rushed hither and
thither ; Wawbee, maddest of all, galloped wildly up and
down, lashing out at the enraged insects. Poor Matheson, in
desperation, sprung from his uneasy saddle, but, lighting on
a sharp-pointed stump, slipped, and rolled under his horse's
feet, — the animal instantly set-to to kick at its fallen rider,
fortunately never striking his head, though missing so
narrowly as to graze one of his cheeks. AVe were laughing
too much to help him ; but he mow escaped, and we all
got off without visible damage, though several of the horses
must have been badly stung.

CHAP. XII.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

175

SKUNK ROASTING.

Cardinal, wliilo out shooting alone, killcil a skunk, and
brought it into camp that evening. I aftorwurds saw it
roasting whole over the Iroquois'
fire, looking awfully hideous, rob-
bed of its skin and ears, and shorn
of the bushy tail which in life had
added something to its beauty.

August 2oth. — As a matter of
curiosity I had a hind-leg of the
skunk for breakfast.* It tasted like
sucking-pig ; very white, soft, and
fat, but there was a susjiicion of
shu7ikiness about it that prevented me
from finishing the plateful.-|*

' On resuming our march the road was bad for a while, then
came a great stretch of really fine old forest, consisting of
spruce firs and a few immense poplars. The largest trees
were not above eight or ten feet round, I should think, but all
were from 150 to 200 feet high, or more.

' Shot three " partridges," with my rifle, at thirty, ten, and
fifteen yards, hitting all of them in the neck, as I intended.
We crossed the M'Leod river, after which I bathed and dined.
It is a stream from 100 to 150 yards wide hereabouts ; for
the most part shallow and rapid, with a gravelly bed but
muddy banks, the mud of a lightish brown, as in all these

* See extract from Hearne, p. 136, ante.

+ Let me here, once for all, deprecate censure from fastidious readers, in
regard to the minuteness of my gastronomic details. No question is more
frequently asked of the traveller, than— What is such and such a beast, bird,
or fish fit for as an article of food ? Being able, through my careful note-
keeping, to meet, in some degree, the general wish fortius sort of information,
ought I — considerate critic ! — to deprive the many of a boon, out of
deference to the probable or possible objections of the few ?

>iMt

;;i

i il

Ifli

170

FOHT EDMONTON TO

< ||AI>. XII.

* ,

Itll'

.«!

n M

-■it - f ^ t'

^': I

livers. Tho baiik.s, wootled to tlin wiitca's edge, aiu iiithor
low, tliougli in sonu! ])livc('s rising to a greater elevation.

'The Iroquois and his family are travelling with us. His
M'ife is a good-looking, clear-skinned, black-hiiired, French
half-breed, too Hat in \wv proportions like all her race. Her
dress is of dark blue cloth. She and tlio girl ride astride, of
course, but quite modestly, wrapi)ing up their legs in tho
shawls in which they carry the little children.

' The wife rides a very pretty grey-and-whito pied mare,
with two bells round its neck, which make a jtleasant rural
sound ; these are not mere ornaments, but are meant to scare
away wolves, and very generally do so. INFares are seldom
or never ridden in this country, except by women. There are
more geldings than stallions, though the latter are far from
uncommon.'

After dinner we crossed the Wolf River, a moderate-sized,
rapid stream running into the M'Leod ; and subsequently tho
road, which led us u[) the course of the latter stream, ran
mostly through a wood of Kouvi age, and was here and there
intersected by very steeply-banked gidlies.

A thunderstorm came on, and gave us a wetting before we
reached our camping-ground at a place called IJiazeau's Cache ;
the storm then settled into steady rain, which
continued for most of the night.

Our party at supper was increased by two of
the Jasper's House men, "whom we met on their
way to the settlements, they turned back, however,
and camped with us. One of them wore a wooden
spur of the most primitive constiuction, — merely
a piece of fir pointed at one end, and hollowed at
wooDKN siuR. ^}jQ other to receive the heel, to which it was tied
by two thin strips of leather. I got some " sheep " pemmican

CHAP. Xtt.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

177

s
h

from those hunters, an 1 tli()u«,'ht it very good, — rather sweeter,
and [)erhap.s a littlo richer, thuii the coininon buflido pem-
luicaTi ; it was entirely made iioiii the dried llesii of tlio wild
mountain sheep.

The Iroquois fauiily still accompanied us. — 'It sounds
curious at night to hear a baity crying, so far away in the
heart of the wilderness.'

August 2(jt/i. — Made a late start, — to give the bushes time
to dry after the heavy rain, wet being most damaging to
saddle-bags and all other leathern articles.

'Very feverish all this morning, but two ciips of tea at
dinner did me a great deal of good. Tea is a wonderful
restorative — when taken as by us, without milk, and with no
spirituous liquors in our systems.

' Our march all day was up the M'Leod River. For
nearly the whole distance the banks were very high, and
covered with tolerably large pines ; here and there w* .e pre-
cipitous faces of rock and clay. Towards evening we ciossed
a rapid sti-eam flowing into the larger river, which makes a
sudden bend at that place. As we moved round the curve
along the water-edge, the setting sun poured floods of light
on the russet brown masses of scorched pines, on the one
side, while, on the other, the darkly-green young spruces
looked black in shadow.

* Just before, I had been struck with admiration at the
sombre loveliness caused by the streaming of the sun's rays
through a great stretch of burnt pin3 forest. All the tall
trees were standing up like jet black masts, and the glorious
light gleamed like silver on the quivering surface of the river,
gilded the sable stems wherever it touched them, and played
in dancing spots over the long gi-ass, and on the low under-
growth of poplars — destined in course of years to fill the

, 1

t /■)■

178

FORT EDMONTON TO

CHAP. XH.

;.!

f ■ i . ':

place of the for-ever blighted wood. I wish some painter
had been there, to paint what I so vainly attempt to describe.
Never have I seen such an effect represented in art —
withered and dead trees often, but not these scorched, and
charred, and blackened stems.'

Soon after leaving this beautiful scene, we camped on
an opening a few acres in size — here regarded as an exten-
sive plain. The mountains ought now to have been in view,
but there was a mist over them, and they were entirely hidden.

August 2^th. — A long hard march this morning, one of
the most toilsome we had yet had. It rained more or less
the whole time, and the wind was cold ; the road ran mostly
through deep wet bogs, full of small fir-trees. My knees and
legs were severely bruised by awkward Rowland's dashes among
the trees ; in one place he got mired, and I had to jump off
and wade through depths of moss. The road was perpetually
crossing ravines, up and down the steepest hills, — I wondered
the horses could climb them.

One solitary gleam of consolation enlivened this weary
day — an unexpected, far-distant view of two grand peaks of
the Eocky Mountains, over which a thunder-cloud cast a
solemn, leaden shade. It was but an imperfect view, but so
marvellous was the contrast between the damp, confined
darkness of our track through the dripping fir-trees, and the
sudden freedom of an open sky bounded only by magnifi-
cent mountain-forms, that for a moment I was quite over-
whelmed. Then one of those strange tides of emotion that
transcend both control and analysis, rushed through me
from head to foot, — I trembled all over, — my limbs lost their
strength, I could liardly sit on my liorse. He, poor beast, did
not share in his rider's excitement — as in a momentary fancy
I thought he would, — and seemed no happier than before ;

!:>■

CHAP. XII.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

179

but, for my own part, all weariness vanished away, and
I felt myself ready for any labours that might bring me
nearer to so splendid a goal.

In course of the morning we made our second crossing
of the M'Leod, and not long afterwards we crossed one of its
tributaries, a stream about half its size, called the Kivifere
d'Embarras, or Lying-wood River, whose banks in this vicinity •
were broken by steep, low rocks, resembling in character those
at Guy's Cliff near Warwick. Whisky looked funnier than
ever in his passage
through the shallow
stream, half wading
half swimming, with
his fat sides bent into
an arch by the weight
of the impetuous cur-
rent, and his odd little
stump of a tail up- vimsKv.

pointed to the skies, flirting bright water about like a sea-
god's shell in a fountain. [Poor Whisky filled the place
of the ancient domestic jester ; one look at him dispelled
melancholy ; every movement he made was a farce. With his
cunningly timorous countenance and sleekly rounded ple-
beian body, he was a true Sancho Panza of dogs. He was
a daily delight : I would not have exchanged him for the
best dog in the Company's territories.] It was a good deal
past our usual dinner-time when we halted near a small
camp of half-breed hunters, who hospitably presented us
with some wild raspberries they had just been gathering.

' The clouds blew off, and the day became sunny and very
pleasant. I rode forward as usual with old Antoine, and
presently, arriving at the brow of a hill that overliangs tlie

1 *

\ i

III

m.^:i

180

FORT EDMONTON TO

CHAP. XII.

' V i

Embarras, a glorious sight opened upon iny view — the Rocky
Mountain range, stretching along the horizon far as the eye
could reach. Below us rolled the river among dark pines ;
hills, also covered with pines — some black and scorched with
fire, some green and flourishing, — filled up the prospect for
many miles ; tlien came flat bare eminences, the footstools
of the loftier range, and then uprose the mountains themselves,
rugged in form, peaked and tabled, and scored with gashes,
— not magnified hills, but rocks in the very archetype.
Too remote to display any smaller modulations, they rose
flat against the blue sky, themselves all steeped in a soft
mellow grey from summit to base ; but in certain ravines, and
on some of the high shoulders of the greater peaks, spots
and masses cf «now glittered in the sun, or looked cold as
death Avhere no rays were able to reach them.

' With feelings almost too deep for utterance, I turned to
Antoine, hoping to find in him some sympathetic response.
His eyes gleamed and sparkled as they met mine ; with a
pleasant smile he pointed first to the nearer hills, then to the
grand range that stretched far away beyond : " JVIonsieur Mi-
lord," said he, with impressive earnestness, " il n'y a pas des
moutons ici ; — mais la has — ah ! ! "

' Taking a rough piece of paper from my pocket, I made a
hasty sketch of the principal peaks, after Avhich wc rejoined
the men, and then all descended to the Embarras and crossed
it again. From tliis, half-an-hour's riding brought us to a
glade where three or four Ivofpiois and half-breed hunters were
encamjicd with their families, and tliere we halted, in the hope
of getting horses and other things that were required Tents
being pitclied, I walked a mile or two, expecting to see the moun-
tains again from a different point, but owing to the nature of
the ground I could only discern the tops of a few lofty peaks.

$ii

u
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a;
>

O
H

i J

^tifeiMlilBiii

r 1

CHAP. XII.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

181

* Moose at supper : excellent though rather tough ; the fat
delicious. How one longs for a good larder and an educated
cook!'

Sunday, Atiffust 28th. — The night was intensely cold ;
hoar frost covered all the ground, some water in a basin was
frozen nearly half-an-inch thick ; but the heat became too
great after the sun got fairly up, and poured down his power-
ful rays into the sheltered valley.

At dinner I was presented with another new dish, in the
form of the last joints of a beaver's back-bone. — ' Exquisite :
tender white lean, melting fat, like sucking-pig but better,
without the least over-richness of taste, and free from the
painful suspicions which interfere with the enjoyment of
roast skunk.'

I afterwards rode to the point whence my previous sketch
of the mountain had been taken, and made a more careful
drawing of the same subject. There was a haze over the
mountains themselves, though the sky was cloudless elsewhere ;
the obscurity, however, being only partial, I got in their general
features pretty accurately, notwithstanding the bad quality
of the materials I had to work with.

' The wife of one of the hunters has made me a gun-cover
of moose leather, ornamented with fringes and narrow braidings
of red and black cloth, after the picturesque fashion of the
country.' [It was the custom to keep one's gun covered, except
when wanted for immediate use. This protected it from bad
weather, and kept it from injury when carried across the
saddle. My Fort Garry cover was merely of buffalo skin,
which, being little better than wash-leather, was neither strong
enough for mountain work, nor thick enough in continuous
rain. Duncan and Toma, who carried my smooth-bores after
we left the carts behind us, had only common waterproof

I' \

182

FORT EDMONTON TO

CHAP. XII.

is-.- i

covers, but the stuff gimlually wore into holes, and the guns
suffered a little from want of protection.]

' These hunters are fine-looking men ; dressed either in the
usual fringed leather hunting-shirts, or in blue cloth capots.
Their CJips are of blue cloth, small, with a leather shade, and
covered with streamers of ribbon, chiefly black, blue, and red.

* They have large herds of excellent horses — ponies we
should call them at home, — among them several stallions.
One pretty brown pony passed us, carrying a little girl five
or six years old, who was riding quite alone. Near one of
the tents I saw two girls, of much the same age, cleaning a
beaver-skin with a bone, while two others were cutting up fat
with great knives. Think of that, A — and C — ! '

The baby of our fellow-traveller Pierre, the Iroquois, was
taken ill at night, and the father, in great anxiety, sent
John M'Kay to ask me to come and give it medicine, I
went immediately to see the little patient. Its mother sat
crying at the tent door in front of a wretched fire, holding
the child nearly naked on her lap, and hel* husband leant
over her with miserable looks, and eyes all full of tears.
An old woman crouched near them in silence.

I felt very soriy for them, and hoped that Heaven would
enable me to do their child some good. It seeiAed probable it
had got a chill in the frosty nights we had lately been having ;
for it was dry and feverish, and inclined to sickness, though
there was no diarrha?a ; and I began to consider how one
miglit best help nature, while soothing the parents by some
sliow of active measures. I dared not give medicine, knowing
that pills and powders fit for men might kill a ten-month
baby, — fearing, besides, lest if the child died I should be held
by these untaught people the cause of its death, according to
a prevalent Indian fancy.

CHAV. xir.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

183

After a moment's thought I put on an air of decision, and
desired that the fire should be made as large as possible, and
the poor naked child very closely wrapt up in several shawls
and blankets. These orders were obeyed with some signs
of reviving cheerfulness, and Mackay presently returned from
our camp bringing a pot of weak tea, which I had sent him
to get ready.

I then directed the mother to hold her baby close to the
fire, and pour tea down its throat, as much as it could be
made to swallow. With perfect confidence in my skill, she
took a spoon and began the feeding process, which so greatly
disgusted the child, that it struggled and screamed, and
rejected the tea, till, between its own efforts and the heat
of the blazing logs, a little moisture began to appear. Tell-
ing them to keep the baby warm, as they valued its life,
I left them and returned to my tent, and next morning
had the happiness of hearing that the treatment had been
a complete success.

' After nightfall there was a most beautiful aurora ; some-
times like a tent, with streams proceeding earthwards in
every direction from a fixed central point, sometimes like
a very grand arch stretching from east to west through
Arcturus, Vega, Cygnus, and the neighbouring stars. Then it
became a mass of glowing red, spreading over the eastern side of
the heavens, and gradually passing to the south. Old Antoine
said that he had never seen an aurora in the south before.
The Indians believe these lights to be the spirits of men
dancing in the sky.'

August 29th. — This morning was occupied in buying and
exchanging horses. We bartered a Sharp's rifle belonging to
Mackay for a strong three-year-old black horse, and ex-
changed La Framboise, who was nearly done out, for a good

jygjiT^sr" ■ <K s AiT. "" •^"rintiriuf'HTii'K

jJ!

184

FORT EDMONTON TO

CHAP. xn.

skewbald ; we also gave j£12, with a Company's horse, which
was temporarily lame and unable to go on, to one of the
hunters, named Eneas Oneanti, in exchange for a very hand-
some stallion, black, flecked with grey, and with a few small
spots of white. Half his face, his nose, and his legs, were also
white. This pony stood about fourteen hands high ; he was
seven years old, and a perfect model of strength and com-
pactness. They called him "Coi-fesse," wliich was said to
mean " spotted thigh," but disliking this ugly word I named
him " Jasper," as he belonged to the Jasper's House district.
When first I saw him he was wandering with a herd of
very handsome little mares, about twenty of them roaming
freely together in the glades of the beautiful pine forest.

' From Oneanti we also got a fine old white mare named
" Moutonne," in exchange for BleiL She is twenty years old,
— but that counts for nothing here, and she is as fresh and
active as a filly. Her right haunch shows a terrible scar,
large and deep enough to hold both one's hands, made by the
wolves when she was young.

' When these arrangements were finished we set out, but
before we had gone far, Eneas came riding up to complain of
the bargain about the mare, as he found Bleu a less good
riding-horse than he had supposed. He wanted the little
cream-colour instead.

'After explaining to him that I felt no way bound to yield
anything, especially as he himself had proposed the exchange,
I told him that I would let him have the liorse he wanted —
which he knew all about — rather than leave him dissatisfied
with my dealings. He hesitated a little, then jumped off Bleu
and changed the saddle to the other. Poor Creme looked
meek and sorrowful, and his eyes appeared (as I have seen a
wounded doe's) all suffused with tears. He is a soft, weak-

CHAP. XII.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

185

spirited little horse, with beauty and gentleness for his only
merits. As he seemed ill, he had been spared much as
possible since we left St. Ann. Poor fellow ! he seemed to
have sad forebodings of rough treatment and hard work in
store ; and looked so piteously that I felt quite unhappy.
However, there is little scope for sentiment when travelling
through these wildernesses : horses must be got, and if the bad
ones cannot be exchanged they must go on till they drop, —
such is the law of the position.

' The Iroquois and his pretty wife were still following us,
though moving at a slower pace, and it was proposed to make
an early halt, evidently to let them come up. I was told that
this was the last open spot, that then came a bad muskeg, etc.,
but after cross-questioning M'Kay and Antoine I determined
to proceed, not finding it satisfactory to travel with other
people, for, as in the present case, it tended to shorten the
marches, and otherwise interfered with my arrangements.
Besides, instead of my men sitting all sociably round the
fire when we halted at night, some of them had begun to go
to their new friends — more especially those who talked
Indian, — so that my party was in danger of splitting
into sections.

* We marched accordingly ; and, as I had guessed, soon
passed by several fair camping places, — the muskeg being a
very small one, — and, after two hours' work, halted in an
excellent place beside the river. During the march I shot
three wood-grouse with the rifle, cutting off the heads of two
of them. We crossed the Embarras ten times.

' Took my first ride on Jasper, and found him very quiet,
sure-footed, and strong, but lazy. Catching sight of my
shooting boots, he couM not be happy till he had turned round
and touched tliem with his nose (never having seen anything

186

FORT EDMONTON TO

CHAP. XII.

but moccasins before), after whicli he paid them no further
attention. We picketed him and Moutonne to-night, lest
they should try to return to their old quarters.

' Beaver tail for supper — like pork fat sandwiched between
layers of Finnan haddock.'

August Both. — A bitterly cold night; in no way could I
manage to shut out the keen frost and keep myself tolerably
warm. Our start was early, and by dinner-time we had crossed
the Embarras six times more, it "was never deeper, however,
than to wet one's foot when riding a fourtcen-hand pony.

We passed rapidly through many a glade of fine gi'ass,
amidsii the masses of young and middle-aged fir- wood, but
there were also numerous muskegs to encounter. Jasper was
an admirable horse for this work. He cared nothing for
muskegs, however deep and bad ; even when sinking in a
swamp he would take the opportunity to snatch a bite of grass
if his nose got near enough, the surface. Greediness was
one of his faulls. Sometimes, while drawing himself over a
log, he would stop half-way, and begin eating a tempting
mouthful that happened to lie handy. H-: was very gentle
and quiet ; I never knew him fidgetty, except once, when a
wasp stung him.

We crossed the Embarras no less than thirty-one times
after dinner, — thirty-seven times in all during the day, — as we
threaded the winding course of the river, going up its deep and
narrow valley. The hills on each side were becoming steeper,
higher, and more rugged, though still pine-covered to the to]>.

There was a slight thunderstorm, but on the whole it had
been a fine day. We came upon the tracks of a moose, but
neither saw tlie animal itself, nor game of any sort, — except
wood-grouse, of which I shot two with the ritle, decapitat-
ing one of the pair.

ciiAr. XII.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

August Z\st. — Crossed the Embarras three or four time
more, then finally left it, nnd stnick across hills covered with
woll-giown pines, and valleys obstmcted by deep bogs, passing
also through several large openings, mostly of a very swampy
character. Old camps and other traces of the Assiniboines
were numerous, — which quite accounted for the scarcity of
game in the district. We now again came to the M'Leod
liiver, — about forty yards wide, shallow and rapid ; and parted
there from one of the Iroquois (not our old friend Pierre, but
a hunter of the same band), who had for the last day or two
accompanied us, — our ways diverging, his destination being
Jasper's House, while we proceeded up stream by the shortest
road to the mountains.

We crossed the M'Leod several times, threading its course
as we travelled along the valley. The timber was of consider-
able gi'owth ; there were very good spruces and firs, but they
had been terribly spoilt by the Indians, who had more or less
barked them to extract the sap.

' Before dinner I rode Jasper, who sailed like a strong ship
through the bugs ; in the afternoon, Cendr(5, — much refreshed
by the long rest I have given him.

' This morning's work has been very severe for our horses,
the fallen trees on the steep hill-sides being so numerous, and
often so large, that progi-ess was slow and toilsome. It is
amusing to watch the different horses going over the great
trunks, some jumping, while others creep and scramble. Old
liRgrace, as usual, has a way of his own — he stands on the
trees, and makes his horse leap them by hauling at him with a
line. He has decorated his white flannel cap with a strip of
scarlet cloth, which presents a most imposing appearance.

' This evening the men started the plan of two separate
camp fires — for the first time. I disapprove of this arrange-

188 FORT EDMONTON TO ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

CIIAI'. XII.

luciit, Ijccause it either breaks up tlio party into sections, <>r
else they all go to ono of the fires, which is naturally that
farthest from my tent, so that I am left alone, and a stronger
line of demarcation is drawn between me and my people. I
hope to put things right without much difficulty, by manner
rather than words.

* The Saskatchewan men have not added to the workability
of the party, though good enough men in themselves. [There
was not quite the same orderly and cordial spirit that existed
before their anival.] Last Saturday I had to find fault
decidedly, because, in order to keep up with the free-men,
M'Kay hurried over breakfast and started the men before I
was ready. He took my reproof admirably, and has been
doubly attentive ever since. I believe it was a fault of
inadvertency.'

[After hesitating whether or not to suppress this and one
or two similar entries in my journal, I have determined to
leave tliem : partly, because they seemed so important at the
time that their omission would impair the faithfulness of the
narrative ; partly, because I am glad of opportunities to show
that my praises of the excellent fellows who accompanied mo
are not empty panegyiics, but that I can plainly state all, or
nearly all, of the few and trivial instances in which I had
reason for dissatisfaction with them, during the many months
we travelled together over the prairie and the mountain.]

) It

\ II

H I

CHAPTER XIII.

MEDICINE TENT RIVER AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

SlJPTEMBER l.s^.— After breakfast Antoine and I rode for-
ward together up the M'Leud vaUey, and crossed the river a
dozen times at least. The mountains now appeared close in
front of us. One of them particularly struck me from its
resemblance to Arthur's Seat, near Edinburgh ; it was similar
in shape, and apparently in formation, though on a gi'eatly
magnified scale. There was no snow upon it, even in the
higher regions, except a few streaks about the northern face.

' As we were riding past a deep pool as clear as crystal,
at the foot of a low but rugged crag, old Antoine paused and
eyed it attentively, — adnjiring its beauty I hoped, — and
almost believed, on seeing him stop again and gaze even more
attentively at another rock and pool a little farther on. He
has some sense of the beautiful, after all, said I to myself.
"Milord!" said he, "les petits poissons :" — and immediately
began to make a rough fishing rod.'

We rejoined the rest of the party, then all halted for
dinner, in the midst of noble scenery, and while the horses
glazed among the scattered rocks and fir-trees, and the men
smoked and chatted good-humouredly together, I passed a
very pleasant hour in reading " Macbeth."

Continuing our march up the M'Leod, we presently
entered a fine rocky gorge, between the "Arthur's Seat"
mountain and another of less remarkable appearance, and

TSr

190

MEDICINE TENT KIVER

CHAP. XUI.

mm^

P.'

after a few miles of easy ti avelling, reached a point where
a smaller stream flowed into the river in a succession of
picturesque cascades. Our track now diverged, and passed
up the course of the stream and close beside the waterfalls ;
it was an unfrequented road, and we found it a good deal
blocked with brush, and altogether out of order ; but a little
axe work soon cleared away the impediments, and we made
the ascent without accident,

'At the top of the rapids the valley showed a tamer
character, its sides being comparatively low and covered with
grass and young pines ; nevertheless there were fine distant
views at intervals, and when we camped for the night in a
deep glen that intersected our course, a grand rocky peak
could be seen crowning the end of the ravine we had chosen
for our halting place. We made an enormous fire of logs —
the men had taken my hint, there was but one fire * — and
slept well in spite of the keenness of the frost, Nothing
could exceed the beauty of the pines and firs as displayed by
the light of our flaming pyramid, even the grass showed a
strange ruddiness mingled with its quiet green, and the eyes
of the horses wandering on the banks above us, shone like
little stars rising and setting incessantly amidst deepest
shades.'

September 2d. — A cold frosty night, as was now almost
always the case. We continued our march up the stream of
the cascades ; its banks were no longer steep, but had become
very tame and featureless. In one pool we surprised a family
of black diving ducks, and managed to get three or four of
them, which turned out particularly good eating, almost the
best of their kind I ever tasted.

* III a few days we returned to the two-fire plan, finding it more convenient
as the weather grew colder.

( lO

-^0^

.rtl^

CHAP. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

191

After this we observed eigliteen wild sheep on the shoulder
of a mountain on our right, so — directing the " brigade " to
pursue its way over the low ridge before us, till they came to
a valley which contained a certain small lake, — Antoine,
M'Kay, and I, rode off to the foot of the hill where the animals
had just been seen. Leaving our horses, we proceeded to
climb the rocks, but the slieep had disappeared, probably
scared by our party, which was full in sight though a con-
siderable distance away.

* When high among the precipices we heard some " siffleurs "
whistling with their clear, bell-like, melancholy notes, and
presently saw one, but out of shot. This beast, a kind of
marmot, is considerably less than a badger, though not unlike
one in form and colour ; its tail, however, is larger and its fur
finer, in these respects it more resembles the opossum. Its
teeth are very long, and shaped like those of the beaver or
rabbit. The rocks are its abode : probably it nearly answers
to the " coney " of the Book of Proverbs.*

' We also saw some very pretty ground-squirrels, not so
large as a common rat ; they were striped with yellow on a
greenish grey, and had bushy tails about half the length of
their bodies. Their cry is like the chirping of a bird. I did
not shoot one, as my rifle bullet would have cut so small a
creature into atoms.'

Having got our horses again, we climbed along the
mountain-side, on tracks where I should have thought nothing
but a goat could pass, and then descended to the lake, where
the brigade had now already arrived. On our way we observed

* Arctomys ? Pruinosus. The Whistler. Tlw Hoary Marmot — Pennant.
Qutsqtds-m—Crce Indians. Soiiffleur [Siffleur] or Mountain Badger— ¥\\r-
traders. "Mr. Macplievson describes one . . . killed on the Mackenzie River.
. . . It was 27. i inches long, of which the head 2|, and the tail 8^." KiciiAUU-
HON, — Faun. Bor,-Am., vol. i. p. 150.

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192

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

CHAP, XIII.

a " white sheep " (mountain goat) high up on the opposite
crags, and, after leaving our horses at the camp, went in
search of him, but had a much longer walk and harder
climb than I had expected. At length we came to within a
very long shot of where he was lying, close to a sharp turn
among the rocks, and I crawled on alone, bringing myself a
third of the way nearer, — after a most painful stalk, for the
stones cut like knives. An exceedingly careful approach
brought me to a stone about 120 yards from him, but I could
get no nearer : then I fired at him as he lay — for if he had
risen he would have been out of sight in a moment, — and
had the satisfaction of making a clean miss.

No better sport remaining, we began to roll immense
stones down the steep — a favourite amusement with my men,
both young and old delighting in it, — sending them crasliing
into a grove of small-sized fir-trees, which snapped like twigs
at the stroke of the flying boulders. Then, getting caught in
a shower, we made the best of our way back to camp, and
reached home about nightfall.

' There we found that Munroe had shot a siffleur ; and, for
the first time, I had the pleasure of eating that most delicious
meat, which tastes like very delicate mutton, with the fat of
a sucking-pig.'

Scptemher 3d — ' The camp is surrounded with magnificent
rocky heiglits ; I leave it with sorrow. Would that it were
the beginning of summer instead of the end ! Had a lund-leg
of siftleur for breakfast, and find it tlie best part. In shape
and distribution of fat it is a miniature haunch of venison ;
it is possible to eat the whole at a meal.'

When we set out, Wliisky took possession of the siffleur's
head, carrying it face-foremost in the most ridiculous manner,
with its rabbity teeth sticking out in front of his ov n, and

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MOUNT LINDSAY-NEAR MEDICINE TENT RIVER. (Seep. loj.

CHAP. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

193

trotted beside "us, exhibiting- hrs*treasure with a delightfully
amusing air of self-complacent sagacity.

After crossing a river which runs in a southerly direction,

[we believed it to be a branch of the " North Eiver," as my

men called it, which is a head-water of the North Saskatchewan,

— possibly that termed " Brazeau Eiver" in some of the maps],

w ^ded a hill, and, on gaining the top of it, came to a

im flowing with rapid current towards the west. I

1 alone in front of my party, following the course of

let, and suddenly found myself stopped by a rocky

, through which the water rushed, partly in cascades,

jattly through a very deep and narrow gorge. On the banks

above this place I picked up some specimens of fossil shells ;

then climbing the hill to my left I rejoined the brigade,

having first made a sketch of a magnificent snow-crowned

mountain directly opposite, on the farther side of a rather

considerable stream which receives the little brook I had

just been following, a stream which, according to Antoine, is

called the "Medicine Tent Eiver," and forms one of the

principal head-waters of the river Athabasca.

' To descend into its valley we had to go down a hill of
extraordinary steepness. It was barely practicable for the
pack-horses, but we reached the bottom without accident, and
then pursued our way up the river with the mysterious name.
At dinner-time I made a very hurried sketch of a noble
mountain of black slaty rock, the last on the right as we
descended the hill of difficulty, but unfortunately clouds came
down and covered the curiously cloven mitre-like summit,
which formed its most characteristic feature, before I had
time to seize the exact outline.*

* This wild and beautiful mountain I have named Moxint Lindsay, after
my friend Sir Coutts Lindsay, Bart., of Balcanes.

194

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

("IIAI". XIII.

' Wc continued our inaicli up tlio river amidst scenery of
surpassing magnificence. On the left, as one proceeds, the
heights are less grand, rumiiiig more in a plain continuous
ridge, but on the right tliere is a far higher wall of rock,
which is broken by a succession of glorious peaks, while

^■-^-

;1B|5 '

MOUNTAIN IN MKDICINK TENT VAI.I.KV.

lower precipitous spurs, divided by deep rocky glens, run out-
waids to the river.

' Among the loftier mountains the most are pyramidal ; a
few are more rounded in form ; some are decorated witli great
masses of snow glittering on their northern sides ; otliers are
utterly unclotliod except upon their grassy pine-clad feet ; but
all agree in one thing — they are rock, absolute rock, witliout
admi.\ture of other "substance. Sometimes the rocks are
placed in steep piles one aboAo tlie other, like heaps of

niu". XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

195

it
It

lof

gigantic slates, far ofteiicv they are disposed in a succession
of rugged precipitous ridges. Sonietinics wide tracts are
covered with shingly fragments, sometimes the strata wliirl
in such curious fashion, that far-spreading spaces look like
vast stores of petrified trees upheaved in the ruin of a dis-
mantled world.

' The rivers are shallow and rapid, rushing over pebbly
beds ; they are generally clear, but of an opaque green or
muddy brown when the snow ir melting fast. Their banks
are bordered by wide belts of pine-trees, — chiefly Scotch and
silver firs, but not without a sprinkling of spruces. These
trees are small, being kept down by the cold and by frequent
avalanches of snow or stones ; except a few gnarled old
patriarchs, none are larger than an ordinary fir of thirty
years' gi'owth.

' In the afternoon we passed through the ruins of a
subordinate mountain, which had fallen as if shivered by
lightning, and covered hundreds of acres with shattered rocks
broken into the most fantastic forms.

'The changes of temperature are very sudden in these
elevated valleys. At noon we were hiding from the burning
sun in any shade that could be found, in the evening we were
trembling in the icy wind of a premature winter : — but there
are no mosquitoes, so welcome cold, heat, wind, rain, fog,
anything, if only these tormentors are cut off!

— ' Our camp was placed on a hill-side, looking down
on a small lake, and within sight and sound of a water-
fall. We were well supplied with food. My own supper
was chiefly composed of porcupine, — Kline having killed
one of these animals with a stick, — it was like siffleur, but
too rich and fat. Old Lagrace had brought in a large
" partridg(>," a bird of the size and appearance of a groy-

'ii'!(|

196

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

CHAP. XIII.

hen,* which he knocked off a branch with a stone, and
Antoine had been out on the mountains and shot a female
wild sheep.'

Sunday, September 4tk. — Mist came rolling up the valley,
the niglit grew bitterly cold : I pulled a blanket over my head,
but could still feel the icy air striking sharjily on my face ;
tlien I burrowed among three blankets and heaped all my
clothes upon them, and managed to get a little sleep, but it
Avas not till the sun rose that I found myself at all comfortable.
For breakfast, this morning, had roast ribs of sheep — a better
flavoured meat than common mutton.

After dinner, I set out with IM'Kay, M'Beath, Duncan, and
Antoine, and climbed to the top of the mountain that stands
across the end of the valley. It was hard work, the exces-
sively steep slopes being covered with loose shingle which
yielded to our feet, but perseverance at length succeeded,
and we reached the summit. There was little view, as the
mist hung thick over all but a few of the mountains.
In the valley beneath us we saw a number of wild sheep,
no rams liowever, only young males, or females with their
lambs.

Before quitting our elevation we set to work piling up big
stones, and built a sort of rough tower, or cairn, some six
feet high, on the highest and most commanding point, as a
memorial of our visit ; then we descended more quickly than
was altogether agreeable.

Whisky, full of misplaced zeal, followed me to the very
top, advancing with steady steps, though much more slowly
than we did ; but in returning he got daunted by the perils

* Probably the feumle of the Dusky Grouse — ( Tclrao Ohscurus). Kiciiaud-
soN, — Fnun. Bor.-Am., vol. ii. p. 344. The female is nineteen inches long, —
much the size of the female Black-cock, which it also seems to resemble in
plumage.

■

CHAP. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

197

of the way, and began to show signs of alarm, stopping with
bewildered looks wlien he came to the dangerous descents,
then creeping a step or two forward, but so lingeringly, that,
by the time we ab half-way down, he looked a more black
speck in the upper region, where our new monument was
standing in all its pride.

Lagrace came into camp soon after, bringing a large
porcupine which he and Pointer had secured between them.
That unlucky dog, having followed it by scent, had seized it
so rashly as to get his mouth struck through with quills, some
of which took such firm hold that we were unable to draw
tliera out. [Of this animal {Hystrix inloaus — The Canada
porcnpinc, termed Cawquaw by the Cree Indians), Sir John
Eichardson writes — " Its quills . . . are rough, with
minute teeth directed backwards. . . . These spines,
which are detached from the porcupine by the slightest touch,
and probably by the will of the animal, soon fill the mouths
of the dogs which worry it, and unless the Indian women
carefully pick them out, seldom fail to kill them. Wolves
occasionally die from the same cause." — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol.
i. p. 214-15. I suppose f ' :., Lagrace, who had taken Pointer
under his special charge, afterwards succeeded in extracting
the quills ; at all events, the dog was none the worse of the
adventure.]

September 5th. — ^Early in the morning, while half asleep
after a very wakeful and uncomfortable night, M'Kay i-oused
me up, reporting a grisly bear to be in view. Dashing on my
clothes I started in pursuit, carrying a gun on each shoulder,
Robinson Crusoe fashion — my rifle for a long shot, and the
smoothbore with the big bullet for close quarters, — Lagi'ace
and Antoine following with other weapons. The bear, how-
ever, having seen our camp, or perhaps winded it, made off at

198

MKDICINE TENT lUVER

IKAI'. XIII.

I ,

a rapid pace, and, after two hours of fatiguing climbing in the
chaos of the landslij), T liad to return without the sjxnt I had
so fully expected. When on my way home, a sitlleur sud-
denly appeared on a rock beside me ; I shot him dead ; im-
mediately afterwards, a very pretty silvery-grey one came
running past, and met with the same fate as its companion.
The former was a male, the latter a female ; and both being
good specimens, I had their skins preserved.* Sillleurs are
hard to get hold of, for, unless shot, quite dead, they scram-
ble into their holes like wounded rabbits.

On arriving at camp, I found the men impatient to set out
on a sheep-hunt they had been promised for to-day. I
breakfasted very hurriedly, intending to go with them ; but
changed my mind, and took a short rest instead, — feeling the
morning's work, as I was tathar unwell, and in bad walking
condition.

In half-an-hour, however, I made a start of it, accom-
panied by Antoine and Duncan, — the latter carrying my
smoothbore, as I thought it likely to be serviceable, — and
we went together up a liroad valley that branched to the left
from that in which our camp was situated. The men had
gone in different parties up the surrounding heights ; except
Munroe, who had taken his own line, preferring a separate
and more distant beat.

It was not long before we observed some sheep, — discover-
ing three of them among the rocks on the opposite side of a
deep ravine, — only an old ewe, unluckily, with two yearlings
at her side. The ewe and a young ram fell at once to my ride

* The skin of the male siffleur measures 274 inches from nose to root oj'
tail (the tail is rather destroyed) ; that of the female 26 inches, and the tail of
it 8.t inches to tlie end of the liiiir. The skin of another specimen measures —
body 23 inches, tail about 8 inches.

CIIA!'. Xllt.

AND NORTH UIVEIl CAMPS.

l'J9

shots, and I broke the jaw of the other with the smoothbore ;
Aiitoine then knocked it over dead, making a very fine shot
with his okl flint rifle, — a most extraordinary little implement,
so short and small, so bound up and mended with leather and
brass-headed tacks, and altogether so worn and weather-beaten,
as to look like some curious anticiue toy.

After this, I went to stalk a herd we liJid perceived some
little way off, while Antoine remained to watch the ravine. It
took me a long round to get to the place I was trying for — an
isolated hillock about sixty yards from the sheep, — and when
I arrived there I shot badly, being dreadfully out of breath.
However, after missing with both barrels, I had still time
to load and fire again, the animals being confused, and looking
about them instead of attempting to escape, and with these
shots I wounded one ewe severely, and mortally wounded the
only ram in the herd — a good- sized two-year-old, which, run-
ning down the ravine, was met by Antoine, who finished it,
and shot another ewe besides.

I ran after the wounded ewe. A lamb was with her ; and,
wishing to kill it — as an act of mercy, to save it from starva-
tion — I waited till it was in line with its mother, and struck
them both with the same ball. The ewe struggled on some
distance, but I overtook and finished her. Antoine now joined
me, and we set-to to skin and cut up our sheep, much pleased
to have obtained so good a supply of fresh meat for the camp.
He told me, much to my surprise, that my first sheep of all,
after lying a long time apparently dead, had jumped up
actively on hearing a shot close by her, and "saved herself"
up the steep side of the mountain.

On returning to camp I found that all my people, except
Munroe, had come in unsuccessful from the chase : but he
presently appeared, bringing with him the head of an old ram

; !

I' ij

200

MEDICINK TKNT UIVEH

cum: xik.

with very good horna. He liad also killeJaiiotlior with a still
largt'v head. This was ciiconmgiiig news, as it showed that
herds of fine shee]) were in the lunghboiirhood. The ohl rams
at this season keej) in parties l)y themselves, and one nuiy
h.nnt whole days without finding anything hetter than bands
of ewes and hunhs and young males. The head brought in
by ]\Iuni'oe was so heavy as to be a fair load for a man.

' Dined off what Toma and Lagracc call " porty-pig " (jmr-
ejyic, porcupine). It was boiled to-night — much better thus
than roasted, — tasting like rather fat, delicate nnitton.

'Toma is sometimes very factitious in his (juiet way.
There was an old Indian with the Carlton hunters at Cherry
Bush, whom he nicknamed " The Saw-mill," from the incessant
jarring drone of his voice as he told endless stories in Cree,
and this name had qowxq to be typically applied to any
offender of the sort. One of our old hands, lately, was
droning away at a long story about some Indian fight, which
he suddenly broke off with a sharp sound, in imitation of the
"ping" of a closely-passing bullet. • Toma softly got up,
stepped across th° fire to where iMatheson was sitting, and,
stooping over him, very gravely said — "Saw-mill broke!"
Matheson went into fits of laughter, and ran all round the place,
telling everybody of Toma's sententious remark.'

Scptcmhcr dth. — Having determined to move the camp to
another valley, I made a rough sketch of the opi)Osite
mountains as a remembrance of the scene. This finished, I
marked my name on a fir-tree, a matter easily accomplished
by blazing off part of the bark, and drawing the letters on
the exi)osed surfiice with the black end of a half-burnt stick.
The resin dries soon afterwards, and forms a sort of varnish
which preserves the inscription for years.

'The place we are leaving is known as the "Height of

'■i s^

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O
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CHAP. XHI.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

201

1-3

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H

M
It,

Land," being just where the waters divide, — the Athabasca
head-stream rising in the snows of a great mountain (which
stands towards the left in my sketch), and flowing northwards,
while the North Eiver (I have heard no other name for it)
flows southwards, to the north branch of the Saskatchewan,
from a point not far distant. This country is very little
known. The Iroquois, the Assiniboines, and others, hunt as
far as the small lake near which we camped on the 2d, but,
strangely enough, they do not traverse the few miles farther,
which would bring them from where game is scarce and wild,
to where it abounds and is easy of approach. Perhaps
superstitious reasons may keep them away, as the name
" Medicine Tent Eiver " indicates magic and mystery.

* 1 am the first European who has visited this valley, and
if I might have the geographical honour of giving my name
to some spot of earth, I should choose the mountain near
which the two rivers rise.*

' Tliere seem to be no Indian names in this country for
even the most remarkable of its features. This is the less
surprising, as the whole district is only inhabited by a few
families of wandering hunters, and they are rapidly decreasing
in number.

* The mountains seem to be mostly similar in composition
to the rock formations near Edinburgh ; precipitous walls
and rocky summits, resembling those of the Salisbury Crags
and Arthur's Seat, being common, while occasionally there are
lighter-coloured and lower masses, independent of the others
though connected with them, which much remind one of the

* Tliat inountaiii is perliaps appropriiiteil, being probably visible from the
other side; but no one could dispute my claim to the " Height-of-Laud "
eminence, which I have therefore taken leave to designate on the maps by my
own name, as raiser of the cairn that crowns its summit.

202

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

ciiAi'. xm.

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Bass Kock. The general colouring of the subordinate hills
and valleys is nearly the same as in the Higlilands of Scotland,
for, although the beautiful heather is not found here, there
are grasses and small-leaved plants, which impart a subdued
richness like that which the heather preserves after its purple
bloom is past. The streams, however, are more lovely than
many of the Scottish rivulets, for they are clear, instead of
running dark with the black stain of peat-moss.

'After my name had been marked on the fir-tree, we
moved the camp a few miles, passing down into the neigh-
bouring valley of the North Eiver. Antoine and I rode
forward together, but stopping for a while at the turn of the
hill, we heard the rest of the party approaching, and waited
for their arrival. As my men came into view, dashing up at
a brisk pace, or galloping here and there to drive in the
straggling horses, I was greatly struck with their picturesque
appearance ; having, indeed, hardly seen them on the march
together since we left Edmonton, for the thick woods and
narrow winding tracks keep a large party always in detach-
ments.

— ' All of them carried guns, all, except three, were dressed
in fringed leather Imnting-shirts, — of every colour, from the
yellow of newness, and the white of new-washedness, to the
blood-stained brown of extreme antiquity, as displayed in
Antoine's venerable garment. M'Kay, powerful in form and
strong of muscle, broad-chested, dark, and heavily bearded,
with a wide-brimmed black hat and unfringed buff coat, and
bestriding a large brown horse, resembled some Spanish
cavalier of old ; while Matheson, mounted on an active
little dun pony, — with a blue Saskatcliewan cap, gay with
bright ribbons, over his long fair hair, and broad belts of scar-
let cloth across his chest, — tall, straight, and merry, — was the

■(

OIIAI'. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

203

image of a gallant young troubadour, riding in smart undress
to the tournament.

' M'Beatli, lengthy of staturo,dark,moustached and bearded,
grave and calm, with a military belt and a rifleman's sword,
looked like an ex-Life Guardsman, half in uniform ; and this
martial resemblance was heightened by the red blanket that
served as his saddle-cloth, and contrasted richly with tlie coal-
black horse that carried him. Kline, wiry and active, riding
Lane — that fine old white mountain-horse, which few but he
could capture when loose on the plains, — made a gay and
cheerful show ; his broad-brimmed white hat, with its wavy
blue-ribbon streamers, perched upon long curly black hair, and
shading a clever, well-bearded face ; his chest surmounted by
belts of silver and red brocade.

'Next came Munroe, — tall, strongly yet lightly framed,
wearing a short canvas hunting-shirt belted round the waist
with leather, and cross-belted with much-embroidered cloth
of black ; then Short, formed like a Greek statue, strong and
very active, but of no great height, wearing a handsome pouch
of leather ornamented with blue and white beads ; — hardy
fellows both, of showy dashing air, ready to do aught that
might become a man.

'Duncan, dressed in strong sand-grey shooting-suit and
flannel shirt, wearing a stout wide-awake hat, and carrying
a double gun in its plain waterproof cover, looked every inch
the worthy Scotsman that he is. Near him rode Toma, the
brave Iroquois canoe-man, leather-shirted, darkly and simply
dressed, slow in the movement of his massive limbs, with
swarthy face, and small black eyes, giave in their expression
though often twinkling with humour, — a most faithful and
excellent fellow.

' Then Lagrace, that original and amusing old man, in a

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204

MEDICINE TENT EIVER.

CHAP. XIII.

purple cotton shirt, tight but very long and wrinkled trousers,
a white blanket skull-cap enriched with peak and ears, and
decorated with streamers of scarlet cloth, beneath a battered
eagle-feather which probably once adorned some Indian
horse's tail, — that keen-witted ancient traveller who did
everything differently from other men, — led when they
drove, woke when they slept, drank cans of strong tea at
dead of night, walked out alone and slew queer animals with
sticks and stones while all the rest were at their meals, — that
quaint old jester who enlivened our halts, after the weariest
marches on the dullest days, by all manner of strange devices,
— scalp-dances round the kettle lid, Cree war-songs, sudden
wrestling matches with Antoine (in which this old aggressor
always got the worst), jokes in the most astonishingly broken
English, — to whom or what shall he be Ukened, with his
brown parchment skin, his keen aquiline nose, his piercing
black eye&, long wild locks, and half-mockingly smiling, small
and thin-lipped mouth ? I know not — unless Mephistopheles
have an American twin-brother !

(' To include the spectators — Antoine, stout and romid of
make, of olive-brown skin and long black hair, was clad in
the dusky leather shirt already spoken of, and bore on
his arm his curious little rifle, and in his belt an immense
hatchet-knife ; on his head was a dark-tinted Saskatchewan
cap. Though long past liis youth, he still had the air of a
hardy, active hunter, while his whole aspect truly bespoke
him a most kind-hearted, honest, and agreeable man.

* For myself, — - f'ore a — noAv only tolerably clean — cream-
coloured hunting-shirt of buffalo skin, fringed on the arms
and shoulders ; grey trousers fastened under the knee with
pieces of green braid ; and a thin, white, wide-brimmed
Yankee hat, with the high bell-shaped crown pressed in, and

CHAP. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

205

a broad band of grpen ribbon tied round it ; from my shoulder
was slung a telescope ; hanging to my leather belt was a short
hunting knife, in a moose-skin sheath plainly embroidered
with black and white beads, and beside it a small tobacco-
pouch of the same pattern. My charger was the little black
Hercules — Jasper, with immense crest and streaming mane
and tail. Across the saddle I carried my favourite rifle, in
the fringed buff moose-skin cover which I got from the M'Leod
Eiver Iroquois.)

* As this gallant party topped the crest of a low hill fair
in my view, ribbons streaming, guns swaying, whips flashing,
gay colours sparkling in the sun, some approaching at .a
quick trot, others dashing after vagrant steeds, or urging the
heavy-laden pack-horses, who jogged along like elephants
with castles on their backs — all life, dash, rattle, and glitter,
— they formed so bright a picture, so grandly back-grounded
by the stately rocks, so gaily fore-grounded by the crisp
green sward, that I could not refrain from attempting to
describe it, though the ablest pen or pencil would fail to do
justice to the scene.'

— We all halted together, and camped, and in the after-
noon Antoine and I went out to the hills. Coming to a rocky
ravine, we observed a herd of female sheep on the opposite
side, and opened fire on them. The old hunter killed one ewe
and two lambs, I killed two of the ewes and wounded an-
other, and afterwards getting a long running chance at the
wounded one, I knocked it over also.

After " arranging " the slain (to use Antoine's expression)
we proceeded to the highest part of a steep narrow ridge, a
spur of the principal range, and looking over the rocky wall
that formed its upper edge, saw close by, just upon the other
side, a small herd of rams, two of which had remarkably fine

■I't^

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t\i

206

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

CHAP. XIII.

,!' i

I ••

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horns. The nearest of these I shot quite dead, the other
struggled on severely wounded. Autoine ran after it to finisli
it off, but his flint-lock missed fire, and, before he was ready
again, tlio fine old ram dropped lifeless, and rolled down the
slope of the hill. The horns of this pair were very good indeed,
larger even than those brought in by Munroe the day before,
but, as usual, somewhat worn and broken at the points.

Returning to our horses, which we had left below, we got
home in excellent time. On our arrival. Short reported that
he had come close upon a large grisly bear, in the valley below
the ridge where I had been shooting the rams. It looked
at him, and he at it, but neither cared to begin the fight, so each
went his own way. [At the time. Short's behaviour seemed
to me rather over-cautious ; with a good double-barrelled
gun in his hand, I thought he ought not to have declined the
combat. But, on reflection, I believe he acted rightly, having
no sufficient inducement for such a hazardous venture. So
fierce, strong, active, and tenacious of life is the grisly bear,
that even for the best marksman, supported by trustworthy
companions, it is the height of imprudence to risk a long
shot at him, and a failure at close quarters leaves a solitary
hunter small chance indeed of escape.

Talking about grislies, one day, with a good authority on
the subject (I forget whom — it might have been James
M'Kay), he informed me that if that animal perceives a
man in an open plain or glade he will generally advance
towards him, and when about a hundred yards distant will
rear himself up on his haunches to reconnoitre, after which
he will eitlier move away, or continue his .advance. In the
latter case, he stops again when about thirty yards from the
hunter, and again rears liimself on end. The hunter, mean-
while, steadily waits, reserving his fire, and the grisly, having

' t'.

1 .

CHAP. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

207

finished his inspection, again advances, until he is ten yards
from his opponent, when for the third time he rises in all his
gigantic height, prepared to hurl himself forth in the last
terrible spring. Now is the hunter's moment : quick as
thought his bullet passes into the chest of the bear, sped at
that short range with such precision that it carries with it
instantaneous death — woe to the hunter if it does not !

In the Eocky Mountains, though probably not north of
the Bow Vd' ind its head-waters, there exists a savage and
treachbi^^s w. jeast, more dangei\ 3 111 some respects than
even the grisly himself. This is the puma — or some feline
animal closely resembling it in colour and general appearance
— which, while nearly as fierce and tenacious of life as the
grisly bear, greatly excels him in activity, besides possessing
an advantage denied to him — the cat-like power of climbing
the highest trees.

But it is not owing to these formidable qualities that the
puma is an object of some dread, it is on account of its stealthy
habits of nocturnal aggression. Marking out a snail party
of hunters or travellers, it will follow them secretly for days,
and watch by their camp at night, till at last it discovers
one of their number resting a little separate from his com-
panions. Then, when all is dark and silent, the insidious
puma glides in, and the sleeper knows but a short awakening
when its fangs are buried in his throat.

One consolation is left to the survivors — if they kill the
eater they may eat him in return ; for the puma is considered
the most delicately-flavoured animal in the Territories.

These details I gathered from my men, and I see no reason
to doubt their truth, for, though such ferocious practices are
not, to my knowledge, attributed to the puma of the Atlantic
States, the jaguar of South America — a beast of kindred

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208

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

CUAl". XIII.

i i

I '

f ,

species — is written of as attacking sleepers in the very
manner described. One of my party amused us exceedingly
by a story concerning a certain expedition to which he had been
lately attached : — how some of the people belonging to it had
noticed a puma in a tree, and immediately saluted it with a
volley ; but how, instead of securing the victim, they had
simultaneously taken to their heels at the moment of drawing
trigger, and run so fast and far that they never felt inclined
to go back to claim their trophy, — which they most shrewdly
suspected might have claimed them, for, while the death of
the enemy was doubtful, its indignation, if alive, was not.

Neither in the mountains nor elsewhere did I even catch a
glimpse of a puma, or observe its tracks, or any other sign of
its existence. At one of the forts, however, I was shown
some Blackfoot article — a quiver, or a saddlecloth, I think —
which was chiefly composed of the fawn-coloured skin of that
animal.]

' Fine weather still, — but misty over the distant mountains.'
Septemhcr ^th. — ' Slept a little better. It is all very well
to talk of custom reconciling to anything, of " hardy hunters,"
and the " enervating influences of civilisation," but, for my
part, I find that no custom enables me to sleep as well on the
ground as on a good mattress. The more tired I am y ' e
worse it is ; I lie awake for hours, every joint aching, half
my body too hot, tlie otlier half too cold. Tlien as to food ;
alcohol may be "poison," but I am certain that tea has not
equal virtue for restoring a thoro\ighly tired man, — to draw
no parallel between the respective pleasantnesses in taste of
a black, bitter fluid, on the one hand, and such delicious
drinks as pale ale, sherry, claret, or champagne, on the other.
As part proof, I find myself not only very thin, but in bad
condition, weak, hardly able to climb the mountains ; yet for

CHAP. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

209

some time there have been no great fatigues to try my
constitution, while the open air, and absence of care and
business, ought in tliemselves to have doubled my strength.
But, after all, what is strength or weakness if one succeeds
in doing what one wishes to do? A great deal as to the
pleasure at the time ; nothing as to the result.' [These
remarks seem inconsistent with o'^^o^s in the journal, where
tea is glorified, and the healthiness of tent life extolled, —
nevertheless I leave them. Under varying circumstances
the thoughts and feelings vary, and it is no true record of
travel that displays nothing of the chameleon element in the
traveller. Looking back after these many years, I should
say, that tea was one of the best of drinks under conditions of
ordinary health and labour, but that stimulants are useful in
cases of illness or over-fatigue. Also, I think that the
system sooner recovers from fatigue or small illnesses amidst
civilised comforts than in the rough life of the woods and plains,
though the latter is in itself far pleasauter and healthier.

My tniiul had forgotten the toils of the journey through
the thick woods, but my hody had not, and the mountain
hunting was telling on me more severely than I imagined.]

' Set off in good time this morning to look for Short's bear,
to get more rams with fine heads, and to carry in yesterday's
game. Half the people remained in camp, cutting up and
drying meat for our consumption on the homeward journey.

The bear was not to be found, though we saw where he
had been digging for roots, so I quitted the valley, and
ascended the mountains with M'Kay and Antoine. Passing
over the ridge we had climbed the day before, we went
as far as the top of the next, and there came suddenly
upon a small herd of old rams, having got very close with-
out exciting their suspicions. One of them fell to my first
shot, but I missed with the second barrel. As they ran

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210

MEDICINE TENT IIIVEU

CilAl'. XIII.

down the declivity of the hill Antoine made a long and fine
shot, and killed a ram with very handsome large horns, more
twisted than nsual, and entirely perfect in their points. My
sheep was an older one, with horns a good deal worn ; he was
exceedingly fat, looking when skinned like a well-fed English
wether of the highest quality.

' These beautiful mountain sheep are about the size of a
large fallow buck, but lighter in the haunch, deeper in the
chest, longer in the leg, and altogether larger in the bone.
Except in the shape of the horns, their head is like that of
the conmion goat ; the eye large, round and full, with a very
large pupil, leaving only a narrow rim of pale yellow iris.
Tlie hair is coarse and of a brown grey, except on the haunch
and the inside of the legs and stomach, which are white.
Some are much darker than others, apparently irrespective
of age, though those under two or three years old are invari-
ably light-coloured.

' Tlie females are smaller than the males, and have little
goat-like horns, instead of the great curled horns of the rams,
which on the American side of tlie border have given to the
whole race the name of " the Big-horn." At this season the
rams are in their best condition, very fat and but slightly
rank ; in October they begin to become uneatable, as is the
case with the red-deer stag in Scotland.'*

An admiring contemplation of the beautiful horns carried
by Antoine's sheep made me anxioi;.s to get some other speci-
mens to match them ; so, while the " arranging " proceeded,
I set off by myself, and took a pretty long climb after a small
band that had just then appeared at no great distance from
us. Wiiisky, who insisted on following me, came very mucii

* Ovis Moiitiiiia
yf ?;i »i on I'ljijd rij ils -

Rocky Mouiitnih Shcrp. Jrgali — Cook, rKtilniaii. Ocis
Oriffitii. Big-liorii — Lewis and Clarke. Cul-hlanc, ct
r,'/(/.M<;-«'ni/: — Canadian Voyageiirs. My-uh Jik — Cree Indians. Ema-kee-
^i(w)i()(f— F)Iaokfopt, etc. liiCHARDSON, — Faun. Hor.-Ain., vol. i. p. 2/1.

CHAP. XIII.

AND NOllTH RIVER CAMPS.

211

ill the way, eitluir running I'orward, or lagging behind and
squeaking loudly if I made any threatening movement ;
notwithstanding this diiliculty 1 got tolerably near them, but
mi.ssed the two running chances they oftered. By making a
stalk, however, I got right above the sheep, who had betaken
themselves to a very deep grassy hollow among the clifl's,
and knocked one over at upwards of 180 yards, firing at four
that stood close together. His head, though respectable, was
not particularly large or good.

' Opening my telescope rather quickly to look at the slain,
before descending to where he lay, Whisky uttered a squeak
that might have been heard a mile oir, and took to his heels,
evidently thinking I had got some whip of a new and danger-
ous pattern. I never struck the poor creature nor spoke
harshly to him in my life, but these Indian dogs are so
fearfully beaten and ill-treated at home that they almost
breathe in yells and squeaks, i have often seen children,
four or five years old, take up the largest stick or stone they
could lift, and dash it down on the wretched body of some
unoffending dog — though it must be confessed, that at the
forts or large camps the dogs are such a nuisance, so trouble-
some, dirty, and noisy, that no one can resist hurling an
occasional stone at them.'

Having rejoined my companions, we set out together to
stalk a great herd of rams which had just come into view :
they were scattered about, feeding, or lying in groups, on
the steep declivity of a hill at the end of the ridge we
saw them from. We quickly gained the top of the hill,
scrambled through some difficult rocks without alarming or
disturbing the sheep, and got within range.

Seeing a good chance, I fired a couple of shots at a pair
of splendid rams that were feeding about not far beneath us.
One fell dying, the other walked away, blood dripping from

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212

MEDICINE TENT IIIVER

CIIAI'. XIII.

his noso. M'Kay fired imincdiiitely iiftevwmds, and killed u
very fine rain ; then we riislied difit'creiit ways among the
rocks, in chase of the rest of the lierd.

I began by firing two iiiell'ectiial shots at some rams
moving along the face of the pr(!cii)ico I'ar Ixdow ; then
observing the sheep I had wounded at my second shot, I
fired at him again, but without perceptible result. As he
was much too far off, I attempted to go down to him, and
suddenly found myself in a very dangerous place, where a
wide and steeply-descending trench-like hollow, lietween two
firm hard ridges, was filled up and hidden l)y an accunnda-
tion of pebbles and s'nall fragments of rock. "Wherever I
stepped, the stones and shingle gave way in masses, carrying
me along with them as r,l';ey went sliding on their downward
course, hurrying towards depths I tried not to think about ;
and, to add to my trouble, AVhisky appeared just above
me — whining with fright, and struggling dcisperatcly to
keep his footing on the treacherous surface, — and sent the
stones in showers past my head. I hardly exi)octed ever to
get to the top, — to descend or stand still would have been
death, — but with great care and exertion, using my rille as a
support by laying it flat on any firmer ledges, and leaning on
it as I dragged myself upwards, I at length reached solid
ground, — feeling very grateful to a kind I'rovidenco for
bringing me safely through.

Neither M'Kay nor Antoine were in sight, though I heard
some shots quite distinctly, so I retTirned to where the rams
we had first killed were lying. No one appearing, I deter-
mined to walk homewards, and make another effort, by the
way, to get the wounded ram I had already so nearly broken
my neck in following. I took care, however, to choose a
different road, and, after some climbing, at length f(jund
myself close to the object of my search, lie was standing by

I'llAl-. XIII.

AND NORTH UJVEU ('AMI'S.

213

the etlgi! of 11 clilf iiLout thirty feet high. I was exactly
beneatli him, on a narrow and 8lo))iiig j^rass-covered sljclf of
rock, which ovcrlnnif( a tremendous prticipico tliat dropped
sheer to the very base of the mountain itself.

I stejtped back as far as I could, and fired at his heart ;
it was a miss apparently, for he oidy moved higher up ;
then ho turned and came to his former position, and
looked at mo over the verge of the height. I instantly
gave him tlio second barrel : the ball struck home : he made
one spring off the cliff into empty air, and came crashing
down on the turf at my feet, — nearly falling on poor Whisky,
wlio must have entered this day n his journal us one of
horrors. The ram lay kicking in the agonies of death, and
was on the very point of rolling off the platfunn, but I got
liold of his hind leg, and held on till he expired, n id then
prop])ed his body firmly up with stones.

At that moment I heard Antoine calb'ng close by; h'
presently descended, and joined me on tlu nu rrow platform.
His news was soon told : — M'Kay had shot several more of
the rams ; he himself had been unsuccessfully following a
wounded one ever since we separated.

It was begirniing to get dark, so we has*:ened to re-ascend
the precipices, then we went back to the safer ground, where
some of the first killed sheep were lying just as they had
fallen. As it was so late, Antoine only gi-alloched and partly
skinned them, — placing something near each of them to drive
away the crows, — instead of ' .. i.'nging" them in the usual
manner.

' When time permits, the hunter's full " arrangement " is
as follows : — He begins by nkinning the sheep, then takes off
the head, and remove;, tiie paunch and offal as far as the heart;
next ho cuts olf the legs and shoulders and back. The chest,
witli the neck attached, now remains (a strange-looking

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214

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

CHAP. XIII.

! if:

object, which wouhl scare a respectable lariler into fits), and
this he proceeds to lay beside the other joints, placing there
also such internal parts as are considered good. Over the
whole he then draws the skin, and having planted a stick in
the ground close by, with a handkerchief or some such thing
fastened to it, the operation of arranging is complete, and the
animal is ready for conveyance home when the horses arrive.

' Antoine goes through the whole process with a large and
very heavy knife, like a narrow and pointed cleaver, which is
also used for cutting wood and performing all the offices of a
hatchet, but unwieldy as it is, a practised hand can ijkin the
smallest and most delicate creatures with it, as easily as witli
a pocket-knife.' [I liave seen Antoine skin a gi'ound-squiiTel
with this ponderous weapon, — yet it got no sharpening, except
an occasional rub on some smooth stone picked up almost at
random from the bed of the nearest river.]

On reaching tlie top of the ridge we met ^I'Kay, then all
scrambled down in the dark, and, what we hardly expected,
found the liorses just where we had left them in the morning.
M'Gillis had been tied, as we had less confidence in his
steadiness, but though Jasper and the old mare were free and un-
hobbled, they had not wandered a hundred yards from the place.

' We had a tedious and rather difficult ride liome, illumi-
nated by flashes of lightning in every direction, though but
feebly enlightened by the moon, new risen above the mountain
ridges. At length the camp fire slione cheerily before us, and
we got in just in time to finish supper before a tremendous
storm of wind and rain came sweeping down the valley from
the north.'

Scptenihcr Sth. — ' A slight sprinkling of snow on the
grcjund. Some of the men went with horses and bi-ought in
the sheep killed yest(!rday, while others continued drying our
store of moat over a slow fire.

'Ml

HEAD OF A ROCKY MOUNTAIN RAM. (Sec p. 2.5.)

T.Tpr-^rrv'T*--

IKSTITUTF

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CIIAP. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

215

* There were now eight very fine heads in camp, from
which I selected the following to take home : — 1. That of the
ram that leaped off the rock. This was far the finest. I
marked it 7, on the left horn, — for the day of the month on
which I got it. 2. One sliot hy M'Kay from the top of the
hill, when we came on the great herd, marked M'K. vii. 3.
One shot hy myself at the same place, marked vii. 4. The
fine one Antoine killed at a long running shot, marked
A. VII. 5. One of those I shot on the Gth, marked VI, 6. The
one brought into camp by Munroe on the 5th, marked M. v.
These are all remarkably good heads.

[The dimensions of the heads in inches are as follows : —

Length following
curve.

No. 1. 38|

Cirrumference at
of horn.

loot

Distance from point
to point.

21|

2. 33

3. 32;

4. 34|

lf)l

5. 32^

G. 33"

,^^

The length of No. 1, it will be observed, is not less than
38| inches, the circumference at the base 15 inches. This is
an immensely large head. Captain Palliser speaks as follows
of the horns of the Mountain Eam : — " I have measured some
that curved more than usual, as much as 32 inches in length,
the hollow part is capable of containing two quarts of water,
and is 23 [? 13] inches in circumference at the orifice."
{Solitary Rambles of a Hunter in tJie Prairies, 1853, p. ?,19.)
Sir John Eichardson, in his description of the animal, states
the length of the horn of a specimen in the British Museum
to be 34 inclies, circumference at base 13 inches, distance
from tip of one hoi'n-to.tip-*f other, 27 [? l7] inches. {Faun.
Bor.-Aj,}ji.yo\. i.,p. 274.) ..Mjlj". Kane, however, mentions a head
seen \xy liim wheu <at4Jftspe-r',SL house in 1847, exceeding that

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216

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

CHAP. XIII.

Ill

; .' ! i I

of my ram — " I made a sketch of a ram's head of an enormous
size ;' liis horns . . . measured 42 inches in length."
(Wanderings of an Artist among the Indians, 1859, p. 345.)
This must have been a very exceptional animal, mine being
so greatly the best head out of six chosen from those of more
than a dozen old rams, shot in a district long free from dis-
turbance, where the finest sheep were likely to be congregated.]

All these heads reached Scotland safely, except No. G, of
which I have only a single horn, the rest of it having been
torn from the pack-saddle during our marches through the
rough fir-woods. I also brought home a number of the best
skins, which had been carefully marked at the same time
with the heads.

[I did not look back on the previous day's shooting with
unmingled pleasure. There was too nuich slaughter, and
conscience rather reproached me, prompting various reflec-
tions, which found j)lace at some length in my journal ; the
pa^e, however, is altogether obliterated, except tliese few ex-
pressions at the end: — 'Yesterday's shooting was successful
enough, especially as regards my chief object — fine heads ;
and a man who travels thousands of miles for such troi)hies
may be excused for taking part in one day's rather reckless
slaughter. After all, there were not more than twelve killed,
and a few wounded, out of a very large herd, which perhaps
may never again be alarmed by the sight of man.' I might
have added, that all the meat was required for use, so that
nothing was wasted but two or three of the more distant
carcases.

Still there is something rei»ugniint to the feelings in carry-
ing death and anguish on so large a scale amongst l)eautil'ul
inoffensive animals. One thinks little — too little — of the
killing of small game, but in shooting large game the butchery
of the act comes more home, (tnc sees with such vividness tlie

CHAP. XII!.

AND NORTH RRTIR CAMPS.

217

wounds, and the fear, and the suffering. But it does not do
to look at things too narrowly, — one gi'ows morhid, — and no
thinking will ever bring one to the root of the matter.

Nevertheless, I woidd that those foolish boys who pride
themselves on making long shots, and pour their pellets so
freely, in these days of rapid loading, into the bodies of birds
and beasts out of all reasonable range — I would that they
might be persuaded to serious reflection, in regard to the pain
and lingering misery they so needlessly inflict on God's
harmless creatures.]

The mist, which had been gathering all day, broke into
a regular snow-storm as the evening came on, but not .before
the men had packed a great deal of dried meat, besides
shoeing several of the horses. In ground of this rocky
nature the fore-feet of the horses require to be shod, to
preserve them Ljm breaking ; in the plains, it is their hind-
feet that need shoes, because the hoofs, worn and polislied
by the crisp grasses, slip about as if on ice, unless furnished
with some iron hold-fast.

September Qth. — * The snow-storm has lasted all night, and
all day, though now towards evening it is lessening. The
mountains are blotted out in mist, the hills are white, except
where dark rocks project through the surface, and the ground
is covered many inches deep with snow.

' The men seem happy in their large tent, singing jolly
songs ; and I am not uncomfortable in mine, warmly clothed,
a great fire of pine-logs blazing before me, and Shakespeare
dividing the time with great meals of mountain mutton, fol-
lowed by pipes of that excellent tobacco which the Company
so benignautly supplies.

'And yet — "surgit ainari ali(pud" — though tlic Ixtdy
may be at ease, the mind will feel restless uiid bereave its
quieter compiuiion of comtort.

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218

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

CJIAI'. XIII.

'To be storm-staid for an indefinitely long time in the
heart of the Eocky Mountains, with winter stealing on apace,
and a long and difficult journey before one, is not an en-
couraging prospect. Nor, disguise it as one may, is it very
enlivening to sit, with wet feet, under a thin canvas covering
that does not quite exclude the keen north wind. Then the
day is endurable, but those weary nights — now, alas, tliose
long nights — that is the time of woe.

' Nevertheless, it is better to be cold and aching under a
tent in the wilderness, than to be feverish and nervous in a
warm house at home. All is for the best. Nothing is ruin-
ously bad for a man but that enervate wallowing in luxury
and feeble indolence, which in this world does more evil to
his own being than high-handed resolute sin ; and may likewise
do so in the next world, for aught we know, — for where
there is strength there is always hope of its being turned
to good account, while from nothingness nothing can be
made

' Finished " Titus Andronicus," a most disagreeable play,
only redeemed by a few fine passages, such as, — " Sweet mercy
is nobility's true badge;" Titus's short speech, — "The hunt
is up," and Tamora's melodious invitation to Aaron, The
play bears traces of much mind-cudgeling : the poet must
have been very young when he wrote it.* How inferior the
commonplace fiend Aaron, to that splendid villain lago !
One a mere vulgar monster, the other just such a plausible
demon as any very subtle-minded man might tremble to
think he himself might become, if bereft of God's aid and
exposed to strong temptation.

' It is remarkable that Shakespeare often puts very noble
sentiments into the mouths of the most evil characters, — as
Tamora in the lines — " Sweet morcy ; " and lago, constantly,
* Most of this play is certainly not by Shakespeare.

X i:

OHAV, XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

219

— perhaps to bring them closer to the standard of ordinary-
humanity, and to show that they had once known the right
though now they did the wrong, that they had passed into
guilt through paths of self-deception and conscience-harden-
ing, not rushed inevitably into it through the resistless force
of destiny or the sudden coercion of some higher power.'

September 10th. — The morning broke clear and fine, and
the powerful sun soon melted the snow in the lower regions.
Taking M'Kay and Antoine, I rode down the valley in search
of the grisly bear ; but could see nothing of him, though
we went a long way exploring the woods and back-lying
glens. As the case was evidently hopeless, I left my
men, who seemed anxious to explore the track we were likely
to follow on moving camp next day, and set out alone for the
top of one of the ridges that led up to the highest part of
the grand range itself, thinking I might thus gain the summit
of some peak, and discover what lay beyond the valley that
had hitherto bounded our view.

I had a long and hard climb to begin with, and then a
succession of difficult climbs over the numerous rocky walls
that obstructed me as I slowly made my way along the ridge.
There was still a good deal of snow on the high ground,
although gradually melting, and this proved helpful in many
places, as it was firm enough to give a foothold where the
stones were loose and unsteady. At length I got close to the
foot of the great principal cliff at the top of the mountain ; but
there found myself stopped by a small but excessively steep
and difficult rock, which stood right in the path, where the
sharply-cut ridge was at its narrowest, flanked also on either
side by a tremendous precipice coated with layers of sheet ice.
Twice I tried this rocky barricade, but it was quite impassable,
unless by scrambling round it, where, though less steep, it partly
ovcrliung the precipice ; but even there it was very difficult, and

¥\

♦ I

' I :

220

MEDICINE TENT RIVER

CHAP. XIII.

a fall involved certain death. Besides, a still worse place
awaited me farther on ; so I reluctantly yielded to necessity,
and turned away — owning myself vanquished, for, except a
single peak, I had seen nothing on the farther side of the
valley's barrier.

When a long way on the downward course, — which, con-
trary to one's usual experience among rocks, was easier than
the ascent, — I discovered that I had left my rifle behind, having
laid it at the foot of a steep little crag, where both hands
were required, and this having happened near the top, it cost
me half my work again to repair the unlucky forgetfulness.

'Owing to this delay, night overtook me before I had
even reached the pine-woods in the valley that lay between
me and the camp, and in consequence I had one of the most
disagreeable walks imaginable. The distance nmst have been
four or five miles, and mostly uphill ; there were rocks to
descend and streams to cross ; the woods were much obstructed
with fallen timber and deep rough water-courses, and the
opener spaces were filled with thick brush. There was no
path, and though the moon had risen, the spruces cast such a
shade as to cause almost total darkness ; added to this I
was very tired, for the day had been hot and my toils severe ;
besides, at every moment I expected to stumble upon the
grisly bear, whose very domain I was traversing, and against
whom I should have had no chance, as the light was not
sufficient for shooting.

' Several times I fired off my rifle, in reply to shots from
the camp intended for my guidance, but the echoes made
these exchanges of signals useless, and it was not till within
a mile of home that M'Kay and jNIunroe met me with horses,
having at last discovered my direction. ^Most heartily glad
was 1 t(j find myself on the back of a horse — no easy-chair is
so good a rest for a man tired out with walking,- and this

■4 J

f'liAr. XIII.

AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS.

221

short ride, and an excellent supper, with plenty of tea, com-
pletely refreshed me and put all to rights.

*I have gained little by my hard climb, except making
out perfectly the run of the valleys in which wo are. There
are two main valleys, — that which we left on the Gth, and that
in which is our present camp ; the former running N.W., the
other S.E. ; the Medicine Tent Eiver, an Athabasca head-water,
running down the first, the North Iliver, a Saskatchosvan
head-water, going down the second ; the hill on which we
jdaced the monument standing exactly at the central point
where the two descents divide.

' All the mountains appear to be most precipitous on their
eastern and northern sides, the greater number looking as if
strong west winds had bent their peaks, giving them a set like
trees exposed to the force of a prc\alent gale.

* The rocks over which I climbed to-day, when going along
the ridge, were nearly all different in m .erial, some being
broken in sharp edges, others ragged like coarse white
coral, others formed of thin layers of a black, slaty- looking
stone, which crumbled in the hand. I came upon a large
tract of this last kind in descending one of the slopes, and
found, mixed up with the broken shingle, heavy round stones
varying in size from a 28 lb shot to a billiard ball ; some of
them whole and lying half buried, but most of them broken,
and showing themselves to be composed of thin layers of
black stone, enclosing a yellowish substance— orange towards
the centre — like some sort of ore. I also found many broken
Encrinites.

' The country through which the North Eiver passes after
leaving this hoight-of-land valley, appears to be another val-
ley, so large and wide that it would be called a plain were it
not entirely covered with dense pine-wood.'

, 1

' . ,1

]■;

)

i{ =■ ii^ I

■ V-

'% i

J i

CHAPTER XIV.

NORTH IlIVEU CAMP TO KOOTANIE PLAIN.

Sunday, September llth. — 'This being a very fine warm
day we moved our camp, and, after making a short march,
halted on tlie Nortli Kiver, opposite to a magnificent rock,
resembling the bastion of some giant's castle. Two slopes
proceeding from the debris at its foot were covered with
small pines, those on the one flourishing and erect, those on
the other mostly beaten down and broken : the whole scene
suggested an assault on a fortress, up a jjracticablo breach, —
troops advancing steadily and in good order to the attack,
and troops hurled backwards in ruin and confusion.' *

As we passed the foot of a glen, down which a little
stream pursued its way, we observed an immense flight of
"Painted Lady" butterflies ;•[• they were hovering about in
hundreds, or settling on the young firs that grew on the sandy
ground in a sheltered sunny spot, their gay wings making
a pretty contrast with the dark green colour of the trecf.
We noticed the tracks of a boar near the same jdace. Not

* To tliis grand rocky mass I have given tlie name of Mouiif Dalliousie,
in memory of a much hunented friend — the lltli f]arl of tiiat title (more ex-
tensively known as Lord Panmure), — at whose house my journey to America
was first suggested.

t Having but little knowledge of entomology, I cannot be certain if these
butterflies were the "Cynthia Cardui," or another variety of s-^niewhat similar
appearance. I am inclined to think they were the " Cyntliia lluntera" —
Belle Dame Jc VAvUrique. Richardson, — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. iii. pp. xi.,
and 295. Mokkis, — British Ballrrflies, p. 76, third edition.

<!iiAi'. XIV NORTH lUVEll CAMP TO KOOTANIK PLAIN. 223

fi 1

far off there was ii laii^or brook, also running into tlio river,
which had the peculiarity of tinting all the stones in its bed
with a deep crimson stain, I picked up two of thorn as
specimens ; they have much lost colour in course of years.

September 12th. — Before we started I began a sketch of the
grand rock opj)osite our camp, but the heat of the sun was so
intolerable that 1 had to content myself with little more than
a more outline. We continued our march down the North
River. The rocks were very fino : all of the same massive
square-cut character. At dinner-time we halted near a small
shallow lake. A largo bird of the crow species rising suddenly
off the shore, I tried my rifle at it, and knocked some feathers
from its wing as it flew away. These birds, which were
numerous in the district, had a very timeful note, — not
unlike distant melodious pipings on a reed.*

We now left the branch of the river we had been hitherto
following, and took our course up one of its two more southern
branches, choosing that which lay most to the middle, and
after a long hard .struggle through a stretch of burnt and fallen
timber of the worst description, we camped on a sandy flat
close beside the stream.

The scenery had become exceedingly grand and beautiful.
The valley was a mile in width ; to the east and west sheer
precipices, 3000 feet high, confined it on either hand with a
majestic barrier. — ' That on the eastern side is of a most re-
markable shape, resembling an immense square block of
masonry, placed on the summit of a vast mound with gradual
slopes, like an altar raised by giants of old to some o[ the
extinct gods.

* This variety does not seem to be mentioned in Sir John Richardson's
work, as the only similar bird described there, — Corvus Corone — 7'he Crow,
■ — Ihnv-haw-seiu, of the Ciee Indians, — is not stated to be a piping crow. —
Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. ii. p. 291.

> , .;i

■-r!i

I" J

224

NORTH niVER CAMP

CHAI', XtV.

* It was very lino to hcliokl tlic moon riHi'iij.; '/mu iKiiind
this enormous mass, which reniaiiu'd in ahsoliito blackness,
whilo all things olso wore tonchud with silver li<;ht. .lust
before she emerged, a large, soft-looking meteor fell from the
sky directly above ns, and slowly floated avvay towards the
south.

' The moon was fidl, and cncireled by a ring of orange and
yellow ; she floated in the midst of intiumorable small lle(!cy
clouds, which wandt'red across a sky of tlie intonscst blu((. This
cloud-formed prevalence of mottled gn^y covered the southern
heaven, and ended in an arch, exact as the rainl)ow, ])assing
through Corona IJorealis a!id just enclosing (Jygnus and
Pegasus. Beyond this line, to the north, the clouds wens
dark, and only percejjtible from the abscmce of the stars they
obscured. As night advanced the region of white cloud grew
less, and hori/ontul streaks of light, like the Aurora, appeared
beneath the polar star.'

Siptc'inhcv Villi. — We crossed the river and for a short time
ascended its course, then marched back the way we came, as
Antoine fancied we should not be able to find an outlet at the
end of the valley. When we had gone a long way down
stream, it ai>peared that he was ([uite ignorant of this part of
the country, and had no better reason for doubting our former
track, than the discovery of certain marks on the trees, which
seemed to denote that Indians had recently preceded us, and
then turned back.

[There was a sudden halt ; Antoine, ^lunroe, and ]\['Kay
began to hold a council, and showed signs of doubt as to the
proper road. It displeased me to find that our long counter-
march was likely to prove fruitless, especially as everything
that day had been done without reference to my o]»inion.
Ikighlly or wrongly, I .suspected an intention to leave the

\i '

CItAl'. XIV.

TO KOOTANIE I'LAIN.

225

.'tiling

nioimtains by tho easieat and pluiuost road, iii.stnad of explor-
ing the finer and loas-traversod i-oules, according to jny
fro(inontly expressed desirt\ Perhaps there was no such deli-
berate intention, but various circunistancea had lat(dy indi-
cated that influences opposed to my own were at work,
])articularly the constant discussions going on in Crco, of
which, from knowing a few words hero and there, I often
guessed the purport]

'I was very angry — things having been done without
consulting nie — so instantly turned my horse, and rodo back
alone through the woods, till I came to the place where we
had crossed the river. As there was no proper track, I had
some difficulty in finding tho way, but got to my point all
right, and after a while tho rest came up.'

[About this time I discovered, in conversation with
M'Kay, that Munroo felt aggrieved, thinking that I had
slighted him in the office of guide — which he then considered
himself to bo filling, though I had not so supposed it, — by
once or twice refusing to camp at places designated by him
for that purpose.

I pointed out to M'Kay, that though in ordinary cases the
guide was the proper person to settle camp arrangements,
my sport and pleasure were the objects of the present
journey, and that while fully believing in Munroe's com-
petency to choose the best camping-places, I sometimes pre-
ferred inferior sites, on account of the beauty of the scenery.
M'Kay, who had been inclined to sympathise with his fellow-
guide, at once understood me, and doubtless satisfied Munroe,
for cordiality seemed quite restored.]

'After dinner we continued our march, and a weary one
it was. The river was so Hooded that we were obliged to
keep a high lino, over a succession of steep ridges with deep

1BT3

■ ' I

226

NORTH RIVER CAMP

CHAP. XIV.

i ■

hollows between, tlie whole of which were covered with burnt
and fallen pines lying about in the most obstructive manner.
Nothing can exceed the discomfort of passing over such a
country, especially when the ground is soft and miry.

'The larger lying-pines tear and wound the horses, and
keep them perpetually jumping, for the obstacles are too great
to be stepped over ; the smaller ones meet you like chevaux-
de-frises placed at every angle, some pointing towards your
face, others at your legs or your horse's stomach ; and, being
dry, hard, and sharp, they pierce like spears when met directly,
or tear your knees and hands if yr-- merely rub against
them.

* Nothing but leather is a defence. I often felt as if in
one of tlie tournaments of old, as these lances of the forest
splintered against my buff jerkin and nearly drove me oat
of the saddle, or, artistically aimed at the head, lifted my
*' beaver" off, sometimes well-nigh treating me to Absalom's
fate.'

'Yesterday "Mission Cendre," the large roan horse I bought
from the missionaries at St. Ann, one of my best, got a severe
stab under the thigh, and was hardly able to go on, and to-day
one of the Edmonton horses came to his end in a very singular
manner. At dinner time we observed him to be looking dull
and not feeding, but there seemed so litthj the matter that
when we started Lai^race rode him as usual. He went fairly
enough till beginning to climb a steep hill, when he showed
signs of sluggishness, as we thought it, and his rider urged
him on ; suddenly he stopped, sank down, and lay to all
appearance lifeless. In a little while he raised his head
and gazed around with a pei'plexed and anxious air, then
uttered three piercing neigii.j, the strangest I ever heard,
turned heavily on his side, and died. M'Kay attempted

CHAP. XIV.

TO KOOTANIE PLAIN.

227

to bleed him, but no blood would flow, and the death-glaze
came over his eyeballs. On opening him we found his
lungs diseased and his kidneys inflamed ; his blood was
very thin, except about the heart, where it was thick and
clotted. The other horses seemed scared ; many of them
would not pass near the dead body.

' After another hour's struggling we halted, and camped
on an island of the North Eiver, not having made more than
three miles' progress on this unlucky day.

* Lightning was flashing in the heavens at nightfall, and
dense clouds floated over all the sky ; we prepared for a
storm, but there only came a slight shower.'

September IMIi. — Our start was delayed by a long search
for two of the horses, which, being at last found, we pursued
our way S.S.W. up the North Eiver, and rode forward at a
pretty good pace, thoug hsome parts of the track were full
of obstructions. 'Late in the evening, while preparing to
camp, we saw some white goats high up among the cliffs.
(They are true goats, though often spoken of as sheep, and
seem to frequent steeper precipices than the grey sheep.)

'Late as it was, Antoine and I went after them, and climbed
some places I should not have liked to venture on alone,
though a tolerably practised climber in my own country.
Night cume on as we reached the top of the ridge ; the
goats had in-^ved out of sight ; and nothing svas left but to
make oiu' way down i '-e valley, — and hard work it was.
There was just light enough vj -ee a few yards in front, but
not sufficient to discover where the descent was safe, except
by actual experiment. We crept carefully along the face of
the cliff", sometimes staggering in loose shingle, sometimes
finding our footing as best we could in the steeper places.

' Several times we fancied we had hit on a good way to get

f'l '> t

228

NORTH RIVER CAMP

OHAP. XIV.

'■in

down, but it always ended in what Antoine called " un roclier
conpe " — otherwise, a precipice. Even he began to think we
should have to pass the night there (like flies on a wall) — I
had for long been expecting nothing better — but Providence
directed us at last to a gentler slope, by which we descended
in safety to the valley level, read ing camp barely in time to
shelter from a heavy fall of rain. Melancholy and depressed,
— from fatigue I suppose, pud from having been so long in
fear for my life while among the cliffs in the darkness.'

September lijth. — * Bitterly cold night, rain till near dawn ;
then hard frost, tents and oil-cloths sheeted with ice. The sun
takes very long to rise in these deep valleys, being obstructed
by the mountains, which stand like walls on either side.
Till he shows himself there is a vault-like chill in the air, but
as soon as his rays surmount the barrier the heat becomes
oppressive.

* We continued our march up the valley, along a beautiful
level track by the river-side, but, as afterwards ajipeared, we
ouglit to have turned to the left up a creek which was hardly
noticed at the time, none of tlie men knowing this part of the
country. Lagrace had a general idea of the road, but he
found himself at fault when we suddenly came to a mountain
which stood right across our path, apparently forbidding far-
ther progress, tor it was no better thon a chaos of rocks and
great broken stones, past which the stream, now very small,
ruslied l)y in a deep and impassable channel.

' Leaving the rest to wait his return, Lagrace scrambled up
the mountain to search for a pass, while, with the same object,
I set out in .'mother direction, followed by Whisky, — who
has a mania for climl)ing, though he squeaks on coming to the
difficult places ; — and, taking my rifle with me, T was re-
warded for a very hard walk by shooting a ptarmigan — or at

■ i

CHAP. XIV.

TO KOOTANIE PLAIN.

229

least a bird exactly like one. There was a covey of thcni
seated on the hare top of a rocky hill, and when disturbed
they flew round the knob and alighted at a short distance. I
missed my second shot, — which at dinner next day I rather
lamented, recognising a true grouse flavour in the bird, which
made it very superior to the tasteless "partridge," of the
pine-forests.*

' On returning, I found that M'Kay had got all the horses
to the top of the hill by a path that seemed quite impracticable,
for it was not only exceedingly steep, but composed of very
sharp many-cornered blocks, much the size of a cart, lying
at different levels, — near one another, but sufficiently apart
to leave great deep holes between, where knife-like smaller
stones did not fill the openings,

' At the summit was a nearly perpendicular tvall of hard
frozen snow, about twenty feet liigh. Steps were cut, and the
horses dragged up with ropes. They ascended witliout acci-
dent, except Blond, who slipped on a sheet of ice just as he
got to the top, and fell to the bottom, crushing our pots and
kettles, but damaging himself very little, as his packs saved
him. Eowland positively refused to go up, so he was taken
a long way round, and the men carried his packs up the icy
stair.' [I did not see the iiors'-- • taken up, but was at the
place immediately afterwards, whii.. they v>'ere stUl there. It
was an almost incredible fer.t, though perhaps less really
wonderful than the previous ascent of the hill among the
separated blocks of stone.]

' We now saw before us a flat gravel-covered valley entirely

* Tetrao (Lagopus) Mutus. The Ptminigan. Richakdson, — Faun. Bor.'
Am., vol. ii. p. 350. lu the sa? .e work, Sir John speaks of the extreme
rarity of specimens, stating that he never liimself met with this variety in the
fur-countries. As far as a non-scientilic observer inrty judge, 1 am certain that
the bird shot by nic was identical with the Scotch ptarn'^jan.

^^nlp '

■

f'^' i'111

-IIP

ill

li !

230

NORTB RIVER CAMP

CHAP. XIV.

enclosed by mountains, the sides of tliose farthest off bearing
great masses of snow, among which the river took its rise,
flowing onwards in several shallow channels. Near the snow
on our left (that is, towards the eastern side) appeared a
lower ridge, and this was our only hope, for unless fortunate
enough to pass over it and arrive at some other valley, we
had no choice but to go back, losing several days and all the
heavy toil of men and horses.

' The ridge, though steep, was in time ascended, and to our
great joy there was a practicable road down a watercourse on
the other side ; but we long remained in suspense, being only
able to see our way step by step, and always dreading that
" uu rocher coupe " might blight our prospects. No difficulties,
however, existed, and by evening we found ourselves com-
fortably encamped at the side of a mountain stream which
evidently flowed towards the Saskatchewan, the direction in
which we had intended to travel.

' There were several very old remains of an Indian encamp-
ment where we halted, but I doubt if any human being ever
came to the place by our road ; certainly no white man ever
did.

' Going along the valley I shot three siffleurs, but two of
them rolled into their holes and could not be recovered. We
saw and heard numbers of the little marmots peculiar to these
mountains. They are of the size of a rat and the shape of a
guinea-pig, their colour is grey-green, their cry a complaining
whine.' *

* This variety I believe to be exceedingly rare out of its own limited
district. 1 am inclined to identify it with a pe(;uliar little animal described
by Sir John Richardson — licpiis (Lagomys) Princeps,— r^r LUUe-Chicf Hnre :
Buckathra Kah-ynwxtc — Indians. Length of head and body 6 inches !»
lines. " On the approach of a man, it utters a feeble cry, like the squeak
of a rabbit when hurt." KicuAiinsoN, — Faxm. Bor.-Am., vol. i. p. 227.

•

CHAP. XIV.

TO KOOTANIE PLAIN.

231

[1 was afterwards given at one of the Forts (I rej^vet
to have forgotten which) an Indian robe composed of tlie
skins of a small animal of the marmot species. The robe
niefisures 80 inches by 69, and contains 105 complete skins,
besides twenty, which have been moic or less cut to fill in-
terstices in the pattern, — 125 distinct pieces in all.

The largest skins are 10 inches long, though a little
shortened in squaring them into convonient shape, so that,
adding 3 inches for the head, the animal would seem to
have been about 13 inches in length, exclusive of the tail.
The tails measure about 4 inches, and hang loose upon the
surface, combining with small strips of skin along the various
seams to form a succession of crrious ornamental fringes.

The skins vary in colour from brown to silver-grey along
the back, which is mottled all over witli little whitish spots.
The stomach and lower parts are of a yellowish grey, sometimes
almost approaching to pale orange. In size and colouring
the animal appears to correspond with an inhabitant of the
northern part of the fur-countries — " Arctomys (Spermophilus)
Parryi. — Parrijs Marmot. SecJc-secJc — Esquimaux. TJkk-
thiny {Rock-hadfjer) — Chipewyans." ItlciiARDSON', — Faun.
Bor.-Am., vol. i. p. 158.]

Scpteniber IQfh. — The horses were very much fatigued
with yesterday's work, for, besides their toil, they ha-i had
nothing to eat till evening, so we settled to give them half
a day to rest and recruit.

Availing myself of the interval, I went out with Antoine
to look for sheep. We almost immediately saw some fine
old rams, but they discovered us, and made their escape to
the 'opposite mountain, stringing up a vast and nearly per-
pendicular wall of glittering rock, along invisible patlis where
no liuman foot could follow. Soon afterwards, observing six

232

NORTH RIVER CAMP

CHAP. XIV.

ewes on the top of a detached crag, we climbed round the
face of it till we got within shot, and were fortunate enough
to kill all but one of the number — three falling to my rifle
and two to Antoine's, — which furnished us with a welcome
supply of fresh meat, for there was not a fortnight's dry
provision in camp.

One of tiie sheep was struck by my shot while running
from us in a direct line ; on receiving the bullet she threw
her hind-legs straight into the air, and danced for half-a-
minute on her forelegs, in what seemed a scarcely possible
altitude,

' The men were busy to-day in mending their moccasins.
Those soft shoes [leather socks one might call them] are
very comfortable in dry, hot weather, but moisture soaks
through tUeni in an instant, and, though they do admirably
for level ground, I fnid Lhem slii>pery on the hill, and ro
pi'otection against stones and thorns. When the weather is
cold they are bad wear for horseback, as one's feet get chilled
in the stirrups. But for a pair of nailed shooting-boots, I
could not have got along at all in the mountains, which are
more covered with sharp stones than any ground I have seen
in Scotland. Even my men, accustomed to nothing but
moccasins, are constantly bruising and cutting their feet ;
they sometimes wear out a new pair of soles in a few hours.

' The best moccasins are made of moose leather : red-deer
{wapiti) is very soft, but too thin ; buffalo is exceedingly
poor both in look and quality. They are generally made in
three pieces; c-.t for i>ing tlie slipper that encloses the foot;
anotlier coverin :; the instep, ruMning upAvards in a tongue
over tlie front -f the ankle, and linished in a semi-oval at the
lower end ; the tliird wrapping round the ankle, concealing
the upper j)art of the second piece, and tied sandal-fashion

CHAP. XIV.

TO KOOTANIE PLAIN.

233

with a strip of tliin leather passed through eyelets round the
heel. The part that comes over the instep is usually covered
with red, blue, or white cloth, and ornamented with em-
broidery in beads or dyed horse-hair. In Ecd Eivcr this
part is made much larger, and lower over the foot, than in
Saskatchewan; generally, also, the toe is less pointed, and
the ankle-covering less liigh.

' The embroidering of men's moccasins witli flower patterns
is not to be commended, it has a tawdry, effeminate appear-
ance ; but, indeed, I have seldom seen any bead-embroidery
of good taste, except among the pure Indians, who, for such
work, prefer geometrical devices to imitations of natural
objects.

*It is singular how invariably the ai;t-instinct of the
primitive savage guides him to that correct judgment which
civilised nations only attain (if they do attain it) after
centuries of thought and experiment, — as youth loses the
grace of childhood without for many years acquiring the
stately comeliness of maturity. So in religion, also, the
child instinctively knows those truths, which, lost amidst a
lifetime of reasonings and controversy, old age sometimes
regains ; — as in the case of John Wesley, who after trying
Ritualism, Mysticism, and Moravianism, and devising a new
system of his om'u, during all which processes he strenuously
battled against those who did not accept his most recently
adopted creed, yet in his old age saw the vanity and vexation
of such janglings, and tlius expressed himself : — " I am sick
of opinions — my soul loathes this frothy food." [The whole
passage runs thus : — " I am sick of opinions : I am weary to
bear them : my soul loathes this frothy food, Give me solid
and substantial rcliyion : give me an humble lover of God and

man : a man full of nirvcv and good faith

laying

234

NORTH RIVER OAMP

ciiAr. XIV.

himself out in the work of faith, the patience of hope, the
labour of love. Let my soul be with these Christiana, where-
soever they are, and of whatsoever opinion they are of," —
SouTHEY, — TAfc of TV csley, vol. ii. p. 94. 3d edition.]

' Is Europe beginning to draw near this ripening of judg-
ment ? There are some signs of it. Were Christ to come
again, would he not, as once before, take a little child and set
him in our midst ? '

September l7th. — Tiie niglit was cruelly cold : it was
almost impossible to sleep. Breakfasting early, we made our
way down a wild and rugged glen, along which we toiled till
evening without rest or food, confined mostly to the bed of a
torrent so stony as to hurt the horses' feet : our direction
tended always to the south-east. At length we arrived at
the valley's end, where the water escaped through a long,
narrow, deep gorge of rock, then crossed the slioulder of a
mountain covered with lying-wood, and finally camped near
the Saskatchewan, half-a-dnv from Kootanie Plain.*

— ' The valley we have left is enclosed on the east by a
precipitous wall of mountains of a pearly grey colour, com-
posed of a hard stone lying in layers, like slates cut diamond
shape and plac .-^ ;»at side outwards, so tliat the cliff is scored
with parallel jagged lines. The leng h of this mountain
barrier seems to be about ten miles, its height perhaps two
thousand feet [above the stream] ; in many places it is
nearly perpendicular, and the summit forms a continuous
serrated line.

' Saw traces of bears all along, but the beasts keep them-
selves out of sight. The wind was excessively cold ; — I felt

* If mpmory does not doeive ne, it was in a small strip of wood near this
camp that some of my men saw a Flying-Squirrel. Ptcromys Sabrinus.
var. ^. Alpiiins. — Rocky Mountain Flying-Squiirel. Richardson, — Faun.
Bor.-Am., vol. i. p. 195.

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CHAP. XIV.

TO KOOTANIE PLAIN.

235

haK dead with hunger besides, having eaten nothing all
day. At supper I astonished myself, consuming at least three
pounds of fried sheep : Toma could not cook the slices quick
enough.

— ' Finished that noble play " The Merchant of Venice."
Had there been a fair tribunal, and another " second Daniel "
to take Shylock's part, I think the Jew would have come better
out of it. It was mere quibbling to make him guilty of
attempting the life of a citizen. You do not attempt a man's
life by accusing him before a court of justice of a capital
crime, in the same sense as by stabbing him with a dagger.

'Are we to understand that Shylock, Judas-like, com-
mitted suicide when he left the court ? There is something
peculiar in his exclamation, " I am not well." A man of
his stern character would have scorned to acknowledge any
feeling of illness at such a time, unless he intended to end
illness and health alike by ending his life. Besides, he would
never really have consented to become a Christian, and his
ready acceptance of that condition showed that he meant to
break it, — and for that there was but one way.'*

Sunday, Sfipiemher 18th. — We marched a few miles, in
a southerly direction, up the course of the North Saskat-
chewan, and halted at Kootanie Plain. This so-called plain is
merely an inconsiderable enlargement of the valley, — a space
of 'some fifty acres, bare of trees, and covered with short
prairie grasses.'

* See Appendix.

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"■*:'

CHAPTER XV.

KOOTANIE PLAIN TO OLD BOW FORT.

September lUh—HhQ river Saskatchewan, though here
not far from its source, is about forty yards in width, wherever
it flows in a single channel, and so deep that we were obliged
to cross it on rafts. While the ferrying went on, I ascended
the mountains with Antoine in search of white goats ; we saw
none, however, but fell in with a number of female sheep, one
of which I shot without much trouble ; it was a very fine ewe,
fat and well-conditioned, though in milk.

The crossing safely effected, we travelled along a broad track
up the river, but discovering, after having followed it a good
many miles, that it was leading us out of our proper course, we
returned, and camped in the dark near our place of departure.

There was a high wind from the south, and towards night-
fall rain came on,

September 20ih. — ^A cold showery day. We succeeded in
finding the .right Bow Eiver road ; it passed not far from the
mountains that form the north side of the valley which runs
eastward from opposite Kootanie Plain, and proved to be an
excellent track, leading over hard ground through a long extent
of thick fir-woods. There vv > traces of recent travellers,
whom we supposed to have ;n Americans going to the
Columbia, — said to be not more than three days' march from
this neighbourhood.

Matheson, who had lately had an attack of pains and

i „9ix » / i m0vu mK it i

; '■^>^-

CHAP. XV. KOOTANIE PLAIN TO OLD BOW FORT.

237

sickness, was now quite recovered, some of my simple reme-
dies perfectly meeting his case, but to-day another man was
taken ill,- -our interpreter, Piskan Munroe. He was seized
with violent cramps in the stomach, a complaint he had
suffered from before, and, without consulting any one, was
rash enough to prescribe for himself, swallowing a whole
charge of gunpowder mixed with water, which he declared
had formerly done him good. As he seemed in great agony,
bending with groans over his horse's neck when the fits
attacked him, I decided on an early halt, though only half
our usual day's march had been accomplished.

Candles now becoming scarce, Toma manufactured one
for me ; it was composed of sheep-fat run into a mould of
stout cartridge paper, and burned remarkably well, nearly
equalling wax in the clearness of its flame.

A very high gale arose from the south, the quarter whence
wind and rain generally appeared to come. Several tracks of
moose were seen near the road-sides.

September 21st. — 'Munroe better. Off early, and made a
long march up the valley, at first through thick woods clear
of liallen timber, then over a country scantily dott°,d with trees,
till we arrived at the height-of-land which divides the water-
sheds of the Saskatchewan and Bow rivers. There was a small
rain all the morning, and when we got up to the high table-
laud this drizzle changed into a regular snowstorm.

* It was very weary work crossing miles of bleak open
moor, with not a tree in sight, and only enough of the sur-
rounding rocks and mountains visible through the mist to
show how much noble scenery was being lost to me for ever.
For ever ! That is too strong a word ; who can tell what
powers of travel may be vouchsafed to the spirit after death V
[A page or two continuing this subject are obliterated.]

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238

KOOTANIE PLAIN

CHAP. XV.

'' * Camped for the night a short way down the course of a
stream that runs into the Bow River. Numerous traces of
bears ; the earth was absolutely ploughed up in large patches
where they had been digging for roots. Shot two " partridges "
with the rifle, and missed two.

' One of the Carlton horses failed, and was left on the road.'
September 22d. — ' Snow and sleet all night, continuing all
the morning. We are now reduced to very simple fare, as
the whole of the flour is finished. Dried sheep-meat (getting
mouldy), pemmican, and tea, are all we have. Thank God ! ) we
have enough, and after the stomach is filled it matters little
what has filled it, if only the food were wholesome.

' On coming to this side of the height-of-land, where the
waters begin to flow east and south, I observe the larch again,
a tree we have not seen since passing a few near Lake St.
Ann. Here th((|r grow on both sides of the valley, chiefly
at a higher level than the spruce, which, in turn, grows higher
up than the Scotch fir. These larches do not show the droop-
ing habit of the kindred tree at home, but grow more in the
cedar form, with branches that are horizontal or tending
upwards. Their foliage is now of a bright pale yellow, which
contrasts effectively with the dark green of the firs.'

September 2Zd. — After marching a few miles we arrived
at an open spot by the river, and camped there early, as I
wished to devote the rest of the day to hunting for white
goats, being anxious to get some specimens of those scarce and
very wary animals. The morning was unpromising when An-
toine and I set out on our hunt ; storms of sleet went drifting
by, and a thick mist enveloped the snow-clad mountains ; never-
theless we persevered, climbed several steep hills, and ex-
plored many likely places, but all in vain.

Towards evening we saw a band of grey sheep, and re-

CHAP. XV.

TO OLD BOW FORT.

239

l^'t

solved to go after them, as there was no further chance of
goats. It cost us a hard climb to get within range, but they
took the alarm and only offered us awkward running chances,
of which we made nothing, though perhaps I ought to have
killed with one of my shots. In the excitement of the moment
Antoine spoiled the little chance I had, by hurrying me on, and
making various signs and speeches, before it was possible for
me to see the sheep.

' A stalker should remember two things — 1st, That, as he
goes in front of the person he is guiding, he must generally
(uphill always) see the animals before they are visible to the
other man, and ought therefore to bear with some slow-
ness on the part of his companion in seeing what he points
out the moment it meets his own view.

' 2dly, That most people are slightly nervous on coming in
after a long stalk, and out of breath besides, so that excited
demonstrations at such times do the greatest harm.

' The best plan is quietly to beckon your companion for-
ward — quickly or slowly according to circumstances, — and
in one short sentence give him any directions that may be
really necessary, such as — " The large beast on the left ; "
" The second from the front," — and so on.'

' Few things more show man's inherent conceit, than our
habit of thinking that nothing can be done without our own
valuable directions. As we marched through the plains I
have often been amused to hear the whole party shouting
H^ogether to any one going after prairie-fowl near the road-
side : — That's the way ! No, more to your left ! There he
goes behind the bush ! Shoot him now ! Not that one !
No, the other, the other ! — while the unfortunate sportsman
danced about like a Highlander in a wasp's nest.

' Except with an absolute greenhorn, it is better to leave a

240

KOOTANIE PLAIN

CHAP. XV.

i I

man to his own judgment when tlie decisive moment comes,
— particularly in rifle-shooting, where your own unaided
choice of the animal to be shot greatly assists the aim,
harmonising the nerves and enabling you to shoot exactly at
the right moment.'

After the sheep we had been firing at had moved away,
Antoine observed a single ewe on a rock above us. I
climbed to within fair distance, and wounded her severely, too
low, however, and far back, so she had strength to run a long
way over some very rough and broken ground. Tracking her
by the blood spots — clear red circles on the chalky stones,
— I followed to the very summit of the height, where the
gradual upward slope abruptly stopped at a tremendous over-
hanging precipice, which formed the other side of the mountain.
The sheep was not to be seen, but looking carefully over the
brink, I discovered her standing on a narrow ledge a few yards
beneath me ; there was no way to approach nearer, so I gave
her a finishing shot, on receiving which she rolled off the plat-
form, and, falling many hundreds of feet, dropped upon the
rocks and ice in the desolate abyss below.

Thinking all was over, I shouldered my rifle and returned
to Antoine, little expecting to bring any of that wild-mutton
home for supper.

The stout old hunter, however, at once proposed to go for
our sheep, and after a considerable round we managed to
reach the place where it was lying, much cut and broken,
but not spoilt for use ; then putting it on his back, he car-^
lied it for more than a mile, till we found our horses again, — no
mean performance, considering the roughness of the ground
and the weight of this two-year-old ewe, a beast certainly
larger than a common roe-deer.

September 24:th.

After marching a few miles we observed

AP. XV.

jomes,
laided
I aim,
Btly at

. away,
us. I
sly, too

along
ing her
stones,
ere the
IS over-
3untain.
3ver the
\v yards

I gave
;he plat-
ipon the

returned
-mutton

o go for
aged to

broken,
, he car-^
;ain, — no

ground
certainly

observed

CHAP. XV.

TO OLD BOW FORT.

241

four white goats, half-way up a rocky mountain, upon whicli
I halted the brigade, and set out on foot, with Antoine, in
pursuit of them. We had a very severe climb to the place
where they had been seen, and then found they had gone on.
Antoine followed on their track, and I kept a little higher,
till we came to a deep ravine, when he suddenly stopped and
beckoned to me. I came on, making all possible haste, but
the rock unluckily was of broken shale, over which one
cannot go fast, and I was only in time to see the white fleeces
streaming off a long way below. We both fired in vain, and
then rushed off to intercept them, but they gained the ridge
long before we did, though running with all our might.

* Never did I feel more utterly prostrated. From various
causes — my long journey on horseback, bad sleep owing to
the cold at night, indifferent food of late, no drink stronger
th'^.n tea, sudden hard work on foot since we came to the
mountains, perhaps also owing to the height, above the sea-
level, of the valleys among which we were ; — I was now very
weak, and only able to climb steep places slowly, and with
constant rests.

' I had set my heart on getting some of these white goats ;
brt we were not likely to see any of them farther on our
journey, my last chance seemed gone ; I lay there on the
mountain side, weary, a,imost fainting with t I'l., and very sore
at heart. These goats began to seem to me like the enchanted
beasts in German stories, which lure men to destruction, and
then mock at their misery. Once I had nearly broken my
neck, and twice nearly burst a blood-vessel, in following them,
— and all in vain. A sort of frenzy came over me, and I
vowed to pursue them to the death.

' We followed their track some way till it turned straight
up the cliffs to the top of the mountain : Antoine then lighted

H ^'

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. f ■

- it.,

U] vi

242

KOOTANIE PLAIN

CHAP. XV.

his pipe and prepared to descend. I proposed to go up, and
he at once cheerfully consented. We had hard and dangerous
work. [The cliff, which rose abruptly from a narrow ledge
of shingle slanting to tremendous precipices, was exceedingly
steep, and the projections on its half-decomposed surface were
but small, and so loosely attached that they constantly broke
at a touch.] In many places Antoine had to cut out steps
with his knife in the brittle shale, and the melting snow from
above rendered our footing slippeiy and unsteady, all the
worae that our rifles left only one hand free. It was terrible
to hear the dislodged stones falling down to unknown depths
in the abyss beneath ; but the only way to climb rocks is to
shut the door on fancy, and rivet the eyes and mind on the
spot where one's foot is to be next planted. The toil was
severe ; several times we were nearly defeated, but at length
the summit of the cliff was gained.

'We then made a long ascent over broken rocks to a
higher ridge, which formed the actual top of that part of the
mountain, and rested there a while amidst ice and snow.
Immediately beneath us a most singular view presented
itself — an immensely deep, oval, crater-like hollow, of the most
verdant grass, embedded in the heart of the mountain. At
the bottom of it there was a beautiful lake, blue as a sap-
phire, and framed in with a narrow band of firs and larches.

* Alas ! the goats were not to be seen, and after a long
search we began descending some steep rocks in a different
direction — utterly in despair.

' When about half-way down, Antoine, who was continu-
ally climbing rocks and looking about him, signed to me that
something was in sight. Coming to him, I observed two of
the enchanted beasts feeding below. He proposed to ascend
again and come down on them, but I was quite, unable, — so

long

CHAP. XV.

TO OLD BOW FORT.

243

wo climbed along tho face of tlio cliff on a very narrow ledge,
and got within long range of the two goats, and within 120
yards of three others, which we had not seen before.

' We fired several shots, but without stopping any of them,
and being so high above their level, as well as so far off, it
was difficult to judge if any were wounded. At that moment
the old ewe I had first shot at, confused by the echoes, came
trotting back, but, having had time to reload, I rolled her
over. At the same time Antoine wounded a three-year-old
male, who began to rush off at a great pace, but I stopped
him with a really good shot, right in the centre of the back-
bone, at more than 150 yards. Both these goats unfortunately
fell over some twenty feet of rock, breaking their horns and
tearing great holes in their skins, but I was glad to get them
on any terms.

' These animals belong to the goat tribe, and are true goats
in appearance. They are rather smaller than the grey sheep,
and much shorter in the leg, and larger in the feet. Their
horns are straight, hard, and pointed, of a shining black, and
about 6 inches long, resembling those of the chamois, only
not hooked at the end. (Perhaps the old males may have
longer horns. I never saw one near enough to make sure :
they are certainly not very long-horned.) Their hair is long
and white, and very soft ; they have beards like common goats,
and the males have a strong musky smelL It is generally said
that they are not good to eat, but we carried parts of them
home to try, and I could perceive little difference in taste from
the sheep. The old males no doubt would be uneatable.*

• Capra Americana. Rocky Mountain Goat. Ovis Montana — OrJ, 1817.
Antilope Lanigera — Smith, 1822. *' Long straight hair, considerably coarser
than the wool of sheep, but softer than that of the common goat. . . .
Under the liair of the body tliere is a close coat of fine white wool [" fully an
inch and a half long"]." Richardson,— iTzuw. Bor.-Am., vol. i. pp. 268-270.

■ •«

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Ici

244

KOOTANIK PLAIN

cnAi*. XV.

'It was pitch (lark ])ef()ro wo gut back to camp. On
arriving at the rivcr-sido we found horses waiting, which the
men had brought over in answer to our sliouts. The crossing
was almost amusing, there was such uncertainty as to the
depths into which one's horse's next step might plunge one ;
we got through, however, without accident,'

Sunday, September 25th. — All night and morning there
was a steady pour of rain. Our camping-place was damp
and confined, so we determined to leave it at once, and
marched, accordingly, till we reached the Bow River, then
travelled some distance down its course. Our road ran mostly
through thick forest, and towards evening it became hilly
and blocked with lying-wood.

Darkness came on very suddenly, and M'Kay and Mathe-
son, who had stayed behind to arrange some of the packs,
were unable to join us, and had to camp by thems^ilves.
They were better off than we were, having the tents and
l^rovision-stores with them ; but it signified little, for we
managed to find sufficient food and covering, — Kline, indeed,
raised me a shelter, by stretching the oil-cloth over poles,
which answered quite as well as my own canvas tent.

Showery, cold weather ; rain again at night. The Carlton
Bichon, who had been ill some time, got worse to-day, and
finally gave out.

September 2Gth. — After about four miles' march we met an
Assiniboine walking along the track by himself ; lie turned
back with us, and soon afterwards we came to four families
of the same tribe.* We halted and camped in their neigh-

* A tribe of the Dacotah race, an offshoot of tlie Sioux. The mountain
bands are commonly known as "Stonies," or "Stone Indians," the word
Assiniboine signifying — "one who boils stones," a name referring to their
ancient manner of cooking.

neigh-

CIIAI'. XV.

TO OLD HOW FOUT.

245

bourhood ; our hope boitig to get food and horses from the
Indians, — theirs, to procure annnuuition, clothes, and tobacco,
in exchange,

— ' I have just made the uni>leasant discovery that we
have barely two days' provision in the camp. Our dried meat
had become mouldy, and during my absences when hunting
there has been shameful waste of our pemmican, some of the
men, I am told, eating it all day long. This evil began at a
time when there was so nmch fresh meat that I tool^ no notice
of the constant cooking and feasting, and a general system of
waste and gluttony thus crept in. Now that it was too late,
I had found out our perilous situation. It was impossible to
get to Edmonton under a fortnight, and, except some ducks,
there was little chance of any game on the road.

' Great gloom overspread the camp. I did my be^^t to seem
cheerful. I divided all the pemmican into portions — there
was only enough for two days and a half — and served the
tea out in allowances : for my own part, I ate some of the leg
of the larger white goat brought in on Saturday. The old
ewe must have reared a dozen kids at least, — tougher and
drier fare I never fed on. . . . Eead " Komeo and Juliet."

' In hopes of getting assistance, we sent off the hunter we
had first fallen in with to a larger cainp of his tribe, a good dis-
tance away, to ask them to join us on the road. In the evening
I heard the Indians singing liymns. They tire Christians,
having had some teaching from Protestant missionaries, and
seem to be most religious, excellent neuple.'

During to-day's march we passed the site of a camp. On
one of the neighbouring trees was written — " Exploring Ex-
pedition. Aug. 23, 1859. Dr. Hector."

September 27</^. — The Indians, who were absent when we
arrived, had now returned from their hunt. They had killed

1
1

•

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:5';

246

KOOTANIE PLAIN

CHAP. XV,

I! i'l

three moose, two of which were very far off, but the other,
which was nearer, they had gone to bring in for us. As
further supplies were urgently required, I set out to look for
sheep, though very unfit for much exertion, and ascended the
mountain directly at the back of our camp. ' It was a hard
climb, but Duncan (who was my only companion) carried my
rifle : I could hardly carry myself, I felt so weak. [A strange
sort of illness had come over me, — I could walk easily on
level ground, but if the least hill began, my knee sinews
lost their strength, and every step was painful.]

* When we reached the summit nothing was to be seen but
rock and precipice, the whole upland vaUey between us and
the farther mountain tops being a great basin of hard smooth
stone, broken here and there with fissures — much like a tract
of rocky sea-coast left bare at low water. Great masses of
snow covered some of the slopes, and the scene was one of
utter desolation : so we went but a short distance, and returned
another way, having some dangerous precipices to descend,
and several miles of lying-timber to cross.*

The Stonies duly brought in the moose. I paid them
well, buying also at a liberal price two white goat-skins and
two moose-skins, to their very evident gratification. M'Kay
then began to deal with them for horses, — of which they had
a pretty fair lot, but nothing really good, except a fine chest-
nut, which had foimerly belonged to the Blackfeet.

* On asking the owner about it, he declared that he had
many a time refused to part with this horse to his own
people, and had even refused it to Dr. Hector, as it was his
favourite, and the only buffalo-runner they had ; neverthe-
less, as he saw we were in want of horses, he would consult
his wife, and consider if the sale were possible. He then
talked very religiously, saying that they were " poor people

CHAP. XV.

TO OLD BOW FORT.

247

living here in the wilderness, thankful to God for the food
He supplied them with in hunting, which was all they had
for their families." What they most wanted, he added, was to
hear about God and be more instructed in religion. M'Kay
suggested to me that I should write out the Lord's Prayer,
to be translated for them into Cree, which one of the women
understood and could speak, I promised to do so, and, in
regard to the chestnut, I told him that I would not take the
poor man's best horse, but would buy from him another,
which, though lame, might go as far as Edmonton.

* It was then settled that Lagrace should be added to
M'Kay's mess, — partly to equalise the messes, partly to keep
the old fellow's v/asteful habits under control.*

September 2^th. — To fulfil my promise, I wrote out a
number of sentences from the New Testament, choosing those
of a simple and encouraging character ; I also wrote out the
Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed, as far as the words
" judge the quick and the dead."

* M'Kay then read the whole, in Cree, to the Stonies, who
were much interested ; but afterwards told us that they liad
the Lord's Prayer and Creed already, though the rest was
new. As none of them could read Cree, we did not trans-
late the paper into writing, but they asked leave to keep it,
as it was, " to remind them of the good things it contained."

* The man we had spoken with about the chestnut now
said that he had determined I should have his best horse ;
that he would not sell me the bad one ; that he would "willingly
give me the horse for the sake of hearing these things about
God."

' He absolutely insisted on my taking it, one way or other;
we therefore exchanged for it Lane (who would soon have failed,
but will perfectly recover with rest), and I gave him, besides —

:■■,:

t. ■

■

■ T *

248

KOOTANIE PLAIN

CHAP. XV.

. f

a gun, blankets, tobacco, ammunition for the winter, a capot
and some cloth, a knife, files, etc., everything, in short, that I
could spare, considering the necessity of buying provisions and
exchanging other horses on the way to Edmonton. The poor
fellow was pleased and grateful, and thanked God for sending
white men to him and his people.

* In all this we see the hand of Providence. Had we not
met these Indians we should have been reduced to great
straits, and must soon have become very short of horses. They
again had very little powder, and no lead — they were using
bits of iron for bullets, — no tobacco, and only very ragged old
leather clothing. Now, they were well supplied, and we
were provisioned for a week, and had got two stout fresh
horses ; — for I also exchanged Spot, with a number of things,
for a useful beast belonging to another of the Indians.'

While the men were settling about their horses, all the
wives and children came to my tent door, so I gave them
a quantity of trinkets, besides a few more serviceable articles.
It was anmsing to see the delight with which one old woman
received a " small-tooth " comb — certainly it seemed needed.
I was able to bestow one of these on each tent, having
packed a few among my stores, hearing that the Indians
fancied them. After this, I brought out some lengths of
coloured gartering, and invited the women, beginning at the
oldest, to take their choice of the pieces. The senior imme-
diately fixed on the green, the next took the red, and the
two yellow rolls remained for the other ladies.

It interested me to watch the children playing with the
young horses, as rougldy and familiarly as if amusing them-
selves with pet dogs or lambs. They climbed over them, sat
on their backs, made them walk, waded them in the shallows
of the river ; they even tied lines to one of their gentle play-

CHAP. XV.

TO OLD BOW FORT.

249

fellr ' legs, and tugged away till they fairly pulled him
do"w The horses seemed to enjoy it, and never showed the
least signs of temper, nor tried to escape from their kindly
little tyrants.

An Indian, evidently far gone in consumption, came to
my tent for medicine. Telling him that I had none quite
suitable for his illness, I gave him a thick flannel sliirt, advis-
ing him to wear it next his skin under his own wretched leather
coat. To my surprise he seemed disappointed, and earnestly
repeated his request for medicine. Though painful to de-
ceive the poor man, it seemed better to- humour him in
his weak condition, so I opened my travelling bag, and pre-
sented him with a few mild pills of no very particular sort.
He went away delighted, thanking me heartily for a gift
which he probably believed to possess some magical virtue.

About mid-day we moved from our camping ground, and
travelled a good distance in course of the afternoon.

September 29ih. — It snowed a little during the night, and
when we set out there was a high and bitterly cold north
wind, which lasted the whole day. A band of eight white
goats came into view, but we had not time to go after them ;
I shot, however, half-dozen "partridges," among them one
very pretty bird with a ruff, which Toma said was of a kind
common about Lachine.*

* We encamped in a hollow sheltered by bushes, near the
foot of " The Mountain where the Water falls," — an isolated
rocky mountain in no way remarkable, except that a small
stream runs down its face and loses itself in a hole in the
earth.'

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ardson, — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. ii. p. 342.

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250

KOOTANIE PLAIN

CHAP. XV.

Our Stony messenger met us on the road, bringing me a
letter from his people, written in the Cree syllabic characters.
It was translated to me as follows — "We thank God for
sending us such a great man : we send our compliments to
him : we will receive him as a brother."

September 30th. — 'Slept better last night than any time
since leaving Fort Garry. The morning was lovely, — sunny,
but with a bracing chilliness in the air.

* Our progress was much interrupted by fallen timber at
first, and afterwards by hilly stony ground, but we succeeded
in turning the comer of the valley, at the end of which
are the ruins of Old Bow Fort. It is a pretty vale. The
river winds through it in a deep, still, dark blue current, and
forms numerous shallow lakes alongside its course, which
are separated from the stream, sometimes by reedy flats,
sometimes by low wooded banks.

'Poplar brush is the principal growth in the lower
grounds, and at this season the bright yellow of the dying
leaves contrasts very beautifully with the dark pines that
overspread the surrounding crags, often to their very top. The
larch almost ceases in the Bow Eiver valley, though a few
are occasionally to be seen. From the neighbourhood of the
Hill of the Water-fall to the extreme end of the mountains,
we were constantly passing groups of really large pines —
silver, spruce, and Scotch fir, — the greater number apparently
about ten to twelve feet in girth, one silver fir, however,
must have been half as large again.

' Most of them bore traces of the fires which are the curse
of this region, which have destroyed the beauty of these noble
valleys, ruining the magnificent forests that ages had matured,
and leaving in their stead endless tracts of charred and de-
caying remains, amidst which wretched seedlings struggle up

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CUAP. XV.

TO OLD BOW FORT.

261

as best they may. It grieves the heart of a lover of trees to
travel through America. For hundreds and thousands of
miles his eyes behold nothing but wholesale destruction of
those noblest ornaments of the earth. Fire everywhere, the
axe everywhere, the barking-knife and the bill-hook, — joint
ravagers with the storm, the lightning, and the flood, — all busy
in pulling down nature's forest handiwork — and who builds up
anything in its stead ?

* If the half-breed wishes to do honour to a friend, he
chooses the most conspicuous tree, prunes off all its branches,
and calls it Friend So-and-so's lob-stick : — thus he raises his
monument. The American strips the greenery from whole
provinces, then builds sawmills and log-houses, and calmly
offers the exchange to the universe — like a knave who steals
an Indian's horse, and offers him a bottle of rum in its place :
— thus he raises his monument.

* The mountains become perceptibly lower after one enters
Bow vaUey, and continue to lessen in height at each succeed-
ing great bend of the river, but their rocky character remains
unchanged. We were still among them when evening drew
on, and such a gale of wind arose from the west that we
hastened to camp ourselves in the heart of a thick young
wood to escape its fury.'

Toma cooked me some moose-nose for dinner : — ' cartilage
and fat like beaver's tail — very good.'

' I

i I

I .

CHAPTER XVI.

I <'. r r,

OLD BOW FORT TO FORT EDMONTON.

* JjY mid-day we arrived at Old Bow Fort (a deserted settle-
ment of the Hudson's Bay Company), all heartily glad to
leave the mountains, amidst whose rugged passes we have
lost three horses, and seen most of the others become walking
skeletons, footsore and feeble ; where we have consumed all
our provisions, and endured much unseasonable cold.

. ' For my own part, I entirely share in the general joy.
Grand as is the scenery of the Athabasca mountains, it has
fallen short of my expectations, which looked for sky-piercing
peaks and heights towering above the clouds, features by no
means often discoverable even in the remoter ranges among
which we travelled.' [The valleys we had passed through
being some 5000 feet above the sea, the mountains, as seen
from them, lose to that extent in height as well as in gran-
deur of character ; thus elevations twice as great as Ben Nevis
show hardly larger than the more lofty among the Scottish
or English hills, while ranges far higher than the rest do not
exceed 7000 to 8000 feet in apparent altitude. According to
the Government Exploring Expedition, the peak immediately
above Kootanie Plain (no way remarkable so far as I remem-
ber) is 8913 feet high ; while, nearly opposite. Mount Miu'-
chison (below which our track led us on the 21st of September)
rises to a height of 15,789 feet, considerably surpassing Mont
Blanc. Old Bow Fort, outside the mountains, and at the edge

ill

oiiAV. XVI. OLD BOW FORT TO FORT EDMONTON.

253

of the plains, is 4100 feet above the sea, nearly equalling Ben
Nevis, the highest point in Great Britain.]

' Then my anticipations of sport have been greatly disap-
pointed. Instead of the hundreds of grisly bears I had been
led to expect, I have only seen one, and that at a distance.'
[Unless disturbed in their hiding-places, bears are seldom
seen except at early dawn. By knowing this I might have
had better sport, for there were plenty of grislies about, to
judge from their numerous tracks. I half think that my
people were not zealous in the matter, dreading the risk
— for me more than themselves — in a country so far from
help in case of accident.] ' Instead of white goats crowning
every rocky height, or reposing in herds on the sunny slopes
of the lower hills, I have seen but a few scattered bands, and
only got two indifferent specimens, after toil that has left me
so weak that I can scarcely carry my rifle. "With the grey
sheep only have I been fortunate ; and there also my success
was obtained with great labour, except on two occasions.

' Every deerstalker knows the effort of climbing the first
liill to get command over the ground, but be it remember-id
that in these mountains merely to reach the foot of the pre-
cipices is a very steep ascent of more than a mile, made
doubly difficult by the roughness of the ground and the
quantity of thick brush and fallen timber through which a
way has to be forced. And then, towering above you, there
are hundreds of feet of bare and often slippery crago, which
cannot be scaled without taxing every muscle to the utter-
most. On the 1st of September I entered the mountains
with joy, on the 1st of October I leave them with greater joy.'

[Feelings scarcely comprehended at the time — of relief at
throwing off a leaden bondage, of warmth and brightness, of
life and joy and freedom — were swelling in every heart. There

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254

OLD BOW FORT

CHAP. XVI.

is something appalling in the gloom of the deep mountain
valleys which had so long been our home, confined within
tremendous barriers of unmitigated rock, — a gloom most
horrible when storms and mists prevail, and not altogether
absent when the sun is pouring down wide floods of cheerful-
ness.

Words cannot describe the desolation of the cold grey
dawn in these rock-bound valleys, when heavy frost grapples
the whole face of the earth, and nothing stirs with a full and
energetic vitality except invisible creeping chills. The very
mass and vastness of the mountains depress and daunt the
soul ; scarcely can you look up at the blue sky without some
portentous object sternly frowning-down your gaze. You
feel yourself imprisoned under some mighty ogre's sway ; the
unassailable, prodigious potencies that beset you all around
crush out your courage, "o'ercrow your spirit" quite. In
leaving the mountains, we seemed to me to resemble the
band of travellers in The Pilgrim's Progress, making their glad
escape from Doubting Castle, the stronghold of that evil tyrant
Giant Despair.]

* The ruins of Bow Fort stand on a high bank overhanging
the river, — here very rapid and about fifty yards wide. Look-
ing eastward down the vale, the eye ranges far over extensive
prairies, bounded by low hills, whose features are partly
hidden by a few small woods occupying their slopes and
spreading into the valleys beneath. The colours of the foliage
were most lovely in rich autumnal tints, — gold, olive, green,
and crimson, according to the different varieties of trees that
were grouped into clumps, or mingled together in the gi'oves.

* The plains are all strewn with skulls and other vestiges
of the buffalo, which came up this river last year in great
numbers. They were once common in the mountains. At

the

CHAP. XVI.

TO FORT EDMONTON.

265

the Kootanio Plain I ohserved some of their wallowing- places,*
and even so high as a secluded little lake, near where the
horses were taken up the ice-bank, I noticed certain traces of
them. They are now rapidly disappearing eveiywhere : what
will be the fate of the Indians, when this their chief support
fails, it is pai^^l to imagine.

' Large as were the herds I saw in July, they were nothing
to what I have heard and read of, and there is reason to be-
lieve that I then beheld all the buffaloes belonging to the two
Saskatchewan valleys and the intervening country, pressed
from various quarters into one gi'eat host. There were none
near Edmonton, none near Pitt, none near Carlton, during the
whole winter, — the inhabitants meanwhile almost starving.
And now I learn that the Blackfeet have been compelled to
leave their usual settlements, and go far south in pursuit of
their means of existence.'

As we approached Bow Fort, we were met by three
Stonies, who came to inform us that the rest were encamped
close by. It appeared that they had neither fresh meat
nor provisions of any kind, but that " bounding-deer " (Le
Chevreuil f) were plentiful in the neighbouring woods, where
some of their young men were then engaged in hunting them.
In the evening this party returned, having killed seven deer,
upon which M'Kay gave them supplies of ammunition, and
sent them to the forest again on our account.

Antoine and I had already started on the same errand,
riding Moutonne and Jasper, as we usually did when hunting
or exploring together. We forded the river, which was so
deep and strong as nearly to carry the horses off their legs,
and then made long search among the woods and poplar
clumps, but without getting a chance, though we saw five

* See footnote, p. 96. + See footnote, p. 113.

i i

856

OLD BOW FORT

CHAP. XVI.

of tlio chcvrmih. It was dangorous, didicult work to recross
tho river, in tho utter darkness timt hud set in by tlio time
we reached its margin.

Tho water had somewhat risen since our former crossing,
and now came well above our knees, freezing our blood witli
its icy chill. Jasper's great strength made up|||r his want of
size, and he contrived to hold his own, but, between the weight
of tho current and the darkness, wo drifted out of tho true
line, and it seemed a very long journey before we lauded on
tho opposite side.

Toma, and others of the party, had been lisliing while we
were away, baiting their hooks with pieces of raw meat, and
had managed to catch fourteen fine trout, some of them as heavy
as several pounds apiece. They were in excellent order, and
made an agreeable change in our rather monotonous suppers.

October 2d. — A tremendous north-westerly gale blew the
whole night long. Being in a high and nmch exposed situa-
tion we were quite unsheltered from its fury, and it beat upon
us with terrific violence. My tent soon showed signs of yield-
ing to the strain ; presently one of the poles broke acros.s,and
everything fell in a heap upon my body. No step could be
taken to repair damages amidst the darkness and the raging
storm, so I was doomed to pass a most uncomfortable night,
feeling much as if beneath a gigantic fan, as the canvas flapped
steadily to and fro, and drove eddies of air through every
covering I could devise.

On searching about near the fort, we had found the re-
mains of a number of carts, left behind by Captain Blakiston
and different American travellers, preparatory to making their
entrance into the mountains ; and, as many parts of tliese
vehicles were still in fair order, M'Kay proposed that we
should build ourselves new ones out of the fragments.

CMAI'. XVf.

TO FOllT KDMOXrON.

257

l*ack Hiuldles lire the only convoyaiico iulai)tecl for inouiitiiiii
work, but ill tin; pluinn carts art! far prufiiiuMc, one liorso
luiing able to draw more than tuo can carry; besides wliicli,
the time occuiiicl in reiniiving the packs at every halt is
saved, and the nieu are relieved from Mie labour of tyinj^ and
imtyinj,' all Mp leather thongs, a troublesomo and dillicult
job in wet or frosty weather.

We ho))ed to have found harness al?«o, but there wore
disappointed, for the cache made by Cai)tain Blakiston had
been opened, and everythiiif,' carried oil', ^ratheson (having
belonged to that party) had been present when the things
were stored away, and perfectly remembered the place, —
indeed we found a board with written directions, which would
have guided us sulTPiciently had he been mistaken.

This mattered little, however, for M'Kay at once engaged
to make harness as well as carts, lie was as go-^d as his
word ; by mid-day his work was finished, and we had the
pleasure of seeing three carts and their harness all complete ;
the whole skilfully put together in a few hours by my handy
men, who had a knack of overcoming all difficulties, and
making everything out of nothing at the shortest notice.
[One of my shooting-boots having been cut by the rocks,
Kline mended it as firmly as any jHofessional cobbler could
have done ; he also repaired my telescope -case in the same
workmanlike manner.]

The storm having abated, we marched a few miles to a
more sheltered place ; where all the Indians presently joined
us, forming their encampment close to mine. Soon afterwards
the hunters came in, and brought us five cJurrcuifs and a goose,
as the produce of our annnunition, so we were once again
abundantly supplied.

While some of the older Indians were talking with us, t

Iff

■ I

HiWHMMM

; f,

Ji68

OLD BOW FORT

CHAP. XVI.

happened to notice a pipe, which one of the head men was hold-
ing in his hand. It was neatly carved out of black slate-like
stone, though the stem was merely a rough piece of fir. On
hearing that I admired it, the owner immediately presented
it to me with the most obliging politeness. I afterwards gave
him in return some tilings that I found him t^be in want of,
adding two pair of my own woollen socks, which he received
with interest, though evidently puzzled as to their exact use.

:''^' ffippif^'

ASSINlUOINIi i'll'li AND STEM.

— ' At night a bell was rung in the Assiniboine camp, and
the Indians all joined in singing hymns, as they do every
night. The service lasted some time. It was a sort of chant,
the men and women occasionally singing in parts. Their
preacher is an aged and venerable man. He learned Chris-
tianity from another Indian, I believe, but his gift of
preaching is entirely self-developed. Mr. Woolsey had since

CHAP. XVI.

TO FORT EDMONTON.

259

occasionally visited these people, who, as far as I could learn,
are now well instructed in the Christian faith, and certainly
carry out its precepts in their lives.'*

October 3d. — The Indians' dogs were exceedingly trouble-
some all night long, making continual attempts to carry oft'
our fresh meat, whicli was their particular attraction. Woke
by these intruders several times, I went out and drove them
away, but they always came back again as impudently as
ever. There was a thin coating of snow on the ground this
morning, the result of an easterly wind that began after tlie
great gale had spent its force.

— ' I had l)een considering what I could do for tliese poor
and most worthy Indians, and a plan having occurred to me,
I sent for the chief man, and spoke to him as follows — M'Kay
interpreting. I said — that I was very glad to have met them,
and much pleased by the kindness with which they had re-
ceived and helped me ; that it also made me glad to find
that they were Christians, and so well remembered what they
had been taugh.c ; that God never failed to help those who
put their trust in him, and that He had put it into my heart
to do them good ; that I had not much with me here, but
that if they would send with my party two of their young
men, with spare horses and packs, as far as Edmonton,
they should return with a supply of blankets, annnunition,
and such other things as they wanted, which I would give
them as a token of friendship and goodwill.

* The Assiniboines were nmch delighted, and gratefully
accepted my ofter, expressing their thankfulness in broken
words.

' This plan, I think, promises well. Apart from the duty

* Through "some misappruheusion of M 'Kay's, I was led to uiulerrate the
tixtent of Mr. Woolsey's iniiiistratious among these people. The subject is
more fully gone into afterwards.

I ■ if ■•1

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260

OLD BO.V FORT

tllAl'. XVI.

and pleasure of helping these really poor people, I feel that
to them we owe onr rescue from great privations, if not star-"^
vation itself; and though, as it liappened, I was able to pay
for all we got, I am satisfied that had we been destitute there
would have been no difference in their liberality. The men
who accompany us will hunt for us on the way, and their
spare horses will also be serviceable, so that they may freely
receive whatever I send them without feeling themselves re-
cipients of charity. So small a sum, indeed, will suffice to
make these few families happy, that the circumstances alone
make the matter worth noting.'

Poor as they were, these Indians had a farm, on which they
grew different sorts of vegetables. We got some turnips from
them, which were pretty good, though not of large size.

The old preacher happening to say that he had never seen
a likeness of Queen Victoria, I gave him a half-crown piece
that bore Her INfajesty's imago, wliicli excited great admira-
tion. At the same time I divided a few trinkets among the
women.

We did very little about horses, only arranging to leave
one of the Edmonton animals, which was nearly giving ou%
in exchange for a strong black mare; paying two blankets and
some other things besides, and engaging to send the owner a
third blanket (which he particularly asked might be a green
one) on the return of the messengers. Before we left I made a
trifling purchase from two of the Stonies, buying from one a
beaded knife-sheath, and a beaded fire-bag from the other,
which, though worn and dirty, and not remarkable in pattern,
[ was glad to have as specimens of their connnoner work.

Tlie snow having nearly disappeared, we now struck our
tents, and made a short aiternoon march of two or three miles,
putting ourselves beyond the reacli of the tmublesonie Indian

'3 il

riiAV. XVI.

TO FORT EDMONTON.

201

dogs. Tliis enabled us to freeze all our venison by setting it
out ill the open air during the night — Whisky nnizzled in
consequence, to his great disgust.

f ri

ASSlNIHlilM': KNrFH-SMK.'. IH AN]: l-l RK-11A(;

October Wt. — The two Stonies who were to accompany us
joined us this morning : one of tliem, we found, liad lately
been in T)r. Hector's om])lov. I was much struck l)y tli(^

262

OLD BOW FORT

cirAi'. XVI.

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beauty of their hands, whicli seemed to nie the smallest and
shapeliest I had ever beheld on men. Perhaps this special
handsomeness only belonged to one particular Assiniboine
band, for no other Indians known to me approached them in
that respect.

Another young man also added himself to our party, in-
tending to ride Avith us a short distance. Ho was accompanied
by his wife, who was certainly the prettiest Indian woman I
had yet had a chance of seeing. Instead of being lean, Hat,
and bony, she was plump and well-proportioned in figure ; her
features were good, though a little thick ; her expression was
remarkably pleasant and good-humoured. Below her under
lip three blue perpendicular lines, about an inch in length,
Avere tattooed with much care and distinctness.

Before we had gone many miles we observed a large
party approaching us on the open plain. We supposed them
to be Blackfeet, and as they were on bad terms with the
Stonies, all of us loaded and prepared for a fight. The three
Indians then rode forward with myself and two others to
reconnoitre ; and, to my amusement, as soon as we left the
rest, the pretty young woman pushed briskly on and joined
us, evidently considering her husband's side by far the safest
place when danger threatened.

We soon m.ade out the enemy to be nothing but a com-
pany of Americans, bound for Fraser's River. Mr. Hind,
whom I had met on the 9th of August, was among the
number, having fallen in with his present companions at
Fort Carlton. JNIr. Colville — brother of Sheriff Colville
of St. Paul, Mr. Dickman, Mr. Eeid, and two or three others
whose names I did not learn, made up the whole brigade.
There were two very fine nniles, of immense size, in their
band, but liaving rather too few horses, they had already

CHAP. XVI.

TO FORT EDMONTON.

263

been twelve days on the road from Edmonton, which was
poor travelling.

' It was an agi*eeable and useful meeting on both sides.
They liberally supplied us with salt, flour, rice, dried apples,
etc., as far as they could, and we, in return, gave them tobacco,
fresh meat, a moose-skin, and a shoeing-hammer. Besides
this, Matheson shod several of their horses. We also en-
gaged one of the Stonies for them as guide over part of the
mountains, an arrangement tlifey could not have made for
themselves, having no interpreter, and speaking no Indian
language.

* We dined together, then parted with many kind wishes
and farewells, and went on our ways rejoicing.'

After this we made a good march over a prairie country,
and camped for the night in a hollow between two hills. On
the way we saw a number of bounding-deer and four wolves.
It was fine winter weather : bright sunshine and hard frost.
The Pleiades and Aldebaran were now visible after sunset.

October 5th. — Intense frost. Rose before break of day, and
travelled through hilly prairies interspersed with a few small
poplar woods, till we came to Dog liiver, an insignificant
stream, where we halted to partake of our breakfast-dinner.

The Stonies, who had been hunting all the morning, now
rejoined us, bringing in one black-tailed deer. They had
killed four others, but left them, as too heavy to carry.

' We spoke about sending for this quantity of meat, but
they laughed at the notion. " What's the use ? " they said ;
" there are plenty more deer on the road, — easy to get, as
they are not much hunted hereabouts."

' This is an illustration of Indian improvidence : those
Stonies, on their own hunting-gi-ounds, needlessly destroy
uamo, know:'n2 that the scarceness of game in most of the

,)U

:f.

2G4

OLD BOW FOirr

CHAI'. XVI.

surrounding country had often brought people to the verge of
stai-vation, — that this very year the Jasper's House hunters
had been obliged to go elsewhere in searcli of sustenance.

' With the buffalo it is the same— kill, kill, kill. All the
year round the Indians are hunting and slaughtering them,
and in the winter they drive them into " pounds " by hundreds
at a time, and murder every beast in the enclosures, male and
female, young or old, usable or useless. Such waste will
soon bring its bitter punishment.'

October 6th. — INIade a very long march over an undulating
country, and halted for dinner a good deal later than usual,
owing to the difliculty of finding wood and water. The same
cause obliged us to travel on for an hour after dark ; the moon,
however, gave some little light, though obscured by clouds.

Shot two young musk-rats at the edge of the quiet pool
beside which we were camping, and had them cooked as
])art of supper. I thought them rather good, ' like rabbits,
with a duck flavour.' They are not real rats, but more of the
beaver tribe, living entirely on vegetable food.* Shot also
several prairie-fowl in course of the day.

October 7th. — The country became more hilly as we
approached lied Deer lliver. Again we had to march for
an hour in the dark, camping for the tiight near a swami)y
piece of water about a mile off the regular track.

A flock of wild swans rose from a lake as we passed by,
soared upwards, and streamed away into the distance in a
long and waving line. I watched the beautiful creatures till
they were so far off as to seem like a white ribbon iloating
across the deep indigo-blue of the evening sky.

* Filler Zilietliii.'us. T/ie Musquash {Musk-hiuvn; Musk-rnt). Musquash
. . . also rrcs'iuay-tu^iryru- {the nuliiiol that sits an the iir in n round fonu)
— Cico Indians. " Lenj^tli oi' head ami liody, 11 incln'S ; of tail, S.i inclios."
liiciIAlin.sdN, — Fmni. Biir.-ylni., v»\. i. ]\ ll't.

H'-

XVI.

CHAI'. XVI

TO FORT EDMONTON.

205

October 8t/t. — Another change in the weather; yesterday
it was very warm with a hot sun, to-day the wind blew from
the north, and it was bitterly cokl. There were plenty of all
varieties of wild-fowl in the lakes and pools. Short stalked
and shot a swan this morning before breakfast, and a goose
and a duck were brought in by the hunters at the same time.
We also saw a number of rabbits — as they are called, though
more resembling the Scotch mountain hare. They were but
poor eating, like a particularly tasteless rabbit of the common
kind.*

After leaving camp, a few miles brought us to Eed Deer
River ; we had a considerable march, however, along its
course before reaching the crossing-place at the bend. At
that point the stream was nearly 100 yards wide, being
spread over gravelly shallows, but elsewhere it averaged
only half that width, in its then low and empty condition.

Shooting at some ducks near the river, I started a black
bear, to which M'Kay and I gave chase, and ran him pretty
hard. Old Cendre went well, but the bear doubled so craftily
in the brushwood, that we could never get near him, and
at length he escaped us altogether.

Camped at Blind Eiver, eight miles from the Red Deer
River ford.

Sunday, October dth. — Slight snow-storm at night ; very
cold north-west wind. Short made another successful stalk,
and brought in two fine young swans.

* The dogs caught a curious animal, like a large dormouse.
[Beyond the facts that it was about the size of a small common

* Lupus Americiimi.s. T/ic. American Hare, llahbit — pjiiropean llosi-
(Icnts at iriulson's 15ay. Zc Lapin — Frciiph Caiiailiaiis. JFapoos — Croc
fikliaiis. " III the fiir-coiuitrics tliis hare lu'comcs white ill the winter. . . .
lienyth of lica<l and h()(ly, 1!> inches." Hiciiaudsox, — Fiiiat. linr.-Am., vol.
i. p. 217.

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200

OLT) BOW FORT

CHAV. XVI.

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I 1^.

rat, or of a very largo thick-set mouse, and had conspicuous
pouches on tlio sides of its head, I do not distinctly remem-
ber the appearance of this animal ; but my impression is that
its colour was a brownish grey, and its tail hairy, and of no
great length. I took its skin as a specimen, but unfortunately
lost it in course of the journey.

From Sir Jolin Richardson's work I gather the following
particulars regarding tlie class of animal to wliicli it might
no doubt be assigned. There are two genera of Sand-rats, —
belonging to one or other of which are at least six or seven
distinct species, — the one classified by some nfituralists as
Gcomys, the other as DipJostoma : — " The sand-rats belonging
to the former having cheek-pouches, which are filled from
within the mouth, and the gauffrcs or camas-rats of the latter
genus having their cheek-pouches exterior to the mouth, and
entirely imconnected with its cavity." Both these genera are
of burrowing habits, but while the rat of the gcomys tribe
appears to use its pouches only as a receptacle for the acorns,
nuts, roots, plants, etc., that form its food, with the dqilo-
stoma rat " these pouches serve the purpose of bags for carry-
ing the earth out of their holes. They are filled with the
foreclaws, and emptied at the mouth of the hole by a power
which the animal possesses of ejecting the pouches from each
cheek, in the manner that a cap or stocking is turned." —
Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. i. pp. 197-209.]

' Bears feed almost entirely on roots and mice, and
besides eating the latter, they dig up and devour the
hoards of seed which the poor little creatures collect for
their winter use. Strange, such a huge beast as a grisly
bear feeding on a mouse ! A moose is more what one would
expect.'

October 10th. — Crossed Battle River before dinner, and

^Z-

XVI.

and

ciiAr. xvr.

TO FORT EDMONTON.

207

campod in the middle of a large plain. Ducks and prairie-
fowl in great numbers.

The moon appeared to-night with a luminous ring around
her, enclosing also the greater part of the eastern sky ; it was
of a clear light, and showed no prismatic colouring.

October 11th. — Marched before sunrise. Tlie morning, as
usual, very frosty and cold ; succeeded by a cool, cloudy day.
Before dinner we arrived at the point where the Blackfoot
track to Edmonton strikes into the road we were travelling.
Near this place Brun Farouche gave out ; lie had been ill for
some time, and had latterly been spared from carrying his
load ; he now became too weak to follow us any more, so we
had to leave him to his fate.

On coming to Pike Creek we found that the beavers
had dammed it up below the track, making the water so
deep as to oblige us to raise all the baggage in the carts,
by supporting it on poles laid across. While this arrange-
ment was in progress, I went to look at the dams, and
near the uppermost observed several trees of eiglit inches
diameter lying prostrate, cut down by the knife-like teeth of
the beavers ; other good-sized trees were approaching their
fall, being gashed with large nicks almost to the centre.

Having passed Pike Creek, we had a disagi'eeable journey
over some twelve miles of recently biirnt country, and camped
at length in a wilderness of brush, after an unusually long
march — of not less than thirty-five miles. As we pitched the
tents, a little foal, left behind by some former ■ travellers,
emerged from the thicket, and came trotting up to our horses,
witli whom he joined company, delighted to find himself
with friends of his own race.

' It was a beautiful sight to watch the full orb of the sun
sinking in the west amidst clouds of black, purple, orange.

iln

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2GH

OLD IJUW FOIIT

(11 Al'. XVI

and gold, while the full orb of the moon rose in the opposite
heavens amidst clouds of purple, lilac, pink, and amber, — the
two great cloud-masses exactly balanced in size, and corro
spondent in colour, though the former was reflected by the
latter in feebler and softer hues.'

A number of ducks and prairie-fowl were shot to-day,
which, with the remains of the Americans' rice, served for our
supper : we wore then left without a vestige of provisions,
excei)t a handful of Hour and 31bs. of mouldy pemmican.

October 12th. — ' Some of the men started very early and
went forward to shoot game, and, as we proceeded on our
march, we were constantly coming upon the ducks and rabbits
they had killed and left hanging on conspicuous branches for
our benefit. I could not help thinking of the com'i:onplaee
])hrase — You see your dinner : and this well-seen din.ier was
well eaten, lo the very last atom, at White Mud Ilivor, where
we halted to rest, after about four hours' travelling.

* As we were now near Edmonton we all made ourselves
as clean and smart as we could, and, these preparations
tinished, two hours more brought us to the Fort, where flying
colours and cannon salutes gave us the first part of the
cordial welcome that greeted o'ur return.

* Mr. Christie, who i.-* now in charge, received me with
the utmost kindness and hospitality. I had also the pleasure
of meeting again the llev. M. Le Frain from St. Ann, and
Mr. Macaulay fron.\ Fort Pitt. Mr. Brazeau has gone to
Eocky ^Mountain House, and ^Fr. Woolsey is engaged in a
missionary tour.

' There is a wonderful improvement in the Fort. Order
and cleanliness everywhere prevail. . . . It is delightful
to be again enjoying some of the comforts of civilisation, — such
as wiru>, well-made coflce, v('g('tal)les, cream-tarts, and oth(?r
good things too many to mention.

CM \i'. xvr.

TO FOllT EDMONTON.

S'id

'{,'

' Some of Captain Palliscr's moii have just retuvniiil, uml
ruport his safe arrival at Fort Colvillo. They bring the
vvoi'st account of Eraser's lliver, — neither gold nor food to he got.

' No very lato news from Europe : the hitest speak of a
great battle being innuinent, between the Austrians and the
united French and Sardinian armies.

'Poor llowland has died. Swimming the river probably
killed him, the cold being too much for him in liis reduced
condition.'

October I'Sth. — This morning I settled with Munroe and
Antoine lilandoine, giving each a small remendn-ance in toke7i
of goodwill. To the worthy old hunter, however, I was glad
to make a further present as a mark of more particular regard,
and we parted with very real signs of regret on his part, —
which 1 entirely reciprocated, for a more honest, excellent
man it would be impossible to meet with anywhere.

I then had all the horses brought together, and after a
careful inspection with M'Kay, decided to leave eleven ; among
which I regretted having to include the fine chestnut bought
from the Stonies at Bow liiver, as an internal illness had
suddenly seized him about three days before, and reduced
him to mere skin and bone. It was aiTanged that ^fr. Christie
should take over these horses for the Company, and enter
them to my credit as a balance against those supplied to me
on different occasions, rating the whole of them at a certain
My account, therefore, now stood as below : —

Horses vecL'iveil fi'om the
Coniiiiuiy.

At Ciirltoii .... 3

At Edmonton ... 8

average value.

Horses given or returned to
the Company.

At St. Ann . • . 1

At Jasper's House . 1

At Edmonton

)th('r

Total

i:}

Showinu' a ludance. of two in niv favour.

i (

I ^

270

OLD BOW FORT

CIIAI'. XVI.

1 had now only nine horses, bosules the six hsl't at Carlton
in July, as the follow in jj; statement will exi)lain : —

orses traiwI'oiTcil.

HoiMCH kept.

Wiiwliei'.

C'eiuhv.

Uleii.

JaHpiT.

Revolver.

Pitt liichoii.

Shnr{).

M'OilliH (Bloiul).

Diuiciin 2(1.

Uelllolit.

Slioit-tuil.

Wawi)oo88 2tl.

Choculat,

Mission Ceinhv.

Brun.

SkowLalil.

Black.

Black inare.

Moutonne.

Chestnut.

Total 1 1

Total

Horses lost.
Whiteface . . strayed, Aaj,'. 2;)tl.
Bay .... died, Sejjt. IJltli.
Prince . . . gave out, Sept. 21st.
Carlton Biclion gave out, Sejtt. 2.'>th
Brun Farouche gave out, Oct. 11th.
Rowland . . died, Oct. 12th.
Total (5

Ilin'ses at C'lirltoii.
Morgnn.
Vermont.
Paul.
Anthony.
Mousey.
Deserter.

Total G

October 14th. — ' Took leave of the Assiniboine.s this morn-
ing, giving them their present, with the following letter to
their people : —

* My Friends — I send you some things as I promised.
There are . . . blankets. The green one is for the man from
whom I got the black mare, the others are to be given to the
two old men to be divided among your families. I also send
. . . bullets, with powder ; . . . knives, a packet of tobacco, and . . .
kettles, to be distributed in the same way. The three cai)s
are for the two old men and the old man who preaches.

< I-

Al'. XVI.

Jmltoii

IIIIAI'. XVI.

TO FOUT EDMONTON.

S71

■II.

iiioin-
iCr to

iiised.

from

o the

send

id . . .

' I have given three hlankets, some clotliea, a shirt, . . .
bulh>ts, and some tobacco to the three men who came here, —
for tliemselvea,

' 1 hope you will take care not to waste the amnuinition.

' T trust God may grant you health and prosperity : and I
shall always remain your friend, South ksk.'

[In a letter from the Kev. Mr. Settee (with whoni, as it
will bo seen, I afterwards became acrpuiinted at Fort Telly),
dated January 11th, 1871, 1 received the sad news that
small-pox had carried off the whole camp of these poor
Mountain Stonies. The disease first apjieared in the Saskat-
chewan district about the month of July 1870, and made
terrible ravages among the Indian tribes.]

That afternoon I sent off all the horses to Carlton, in
charge of Kline and Lagrace. My plan, as finally anunged,
was to travel there by river in one of the Company's large boats,
which, under ordinary circumstances, is by far the quickest
and easiest way. I hoped to hire six more horses at that fort,
which, with those left in summer, "would enable me to
reach Fort Pelly, where it was considered that dog-trains
were most likely to be found. If all went well, I exiiected to
arrive at Carlton about the end of that month, and at Fort
Garry towards the beginning of December.

Sunday October lG</i. — [A ridiculous thing happened this
morning. I was in the act of washing myself in my india-
rubber bath, when suddenly the door flew open, and two
splendidly dressed Indians walked into the room as if the
whole place belonged to them, but on seeing me they
stopped, and stared with all their might. We stared at one
another for a moment, then a radiant smile came over their
faces, and there was a general laugh, after which I continued

.. n

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J !

OLD BOW FORT TO FORT EDMONTON.

CIIAl'. XVI.

my sponging, to tlioir evident woncler and amazement. What
they thought of tlio ceremony I never happened to find out.]

Tliese men were envoys from the Blackfeet, sent as fore-
runners, according to the usual custom, to announce the near
ajiproacli of the whole tribe, who were coming on the follow-
ing Tuesday, under the leadershi]) of the chiefs Nahtooss and
liuU-head, to pay their annual autumn visit to the Fort.

Every one agreed in speaking of these arrivals as very
picturesque and interesting displays, and mucli did I regret
being unable to stay for the occasion, but the lateness of the
season prevented me. Even a day was precious just now,
there being barely time to reach Fort Carlton before the
period at which the river generally freezes up ; and the state
of the weather increased our anxiety to set off, for the cold
was severer than usual at this date, and a heavy fall of snow
had occurred on Friday night.

INSTITUTE.

CHAPTER XVII.

FORT EDMONTON TO FORT PITT.

,1' H

October 17 tk. — ah our arrangements being completed, we
embarked in Mr. Christie's own new and roomy boat, " The
Golden Era," which he had obligingly lent ns for the voyage,
and by noon were fairly on our way down the broad cur-
rent of the Saskatchewan River. I felt depressed, almost
sorrowful, on leaving Edmonton, where I had been made
more than comfortable, through the constant attentions and
hospitalities of my kind entertainers, and but little could be
gathered from the aspect of nature to chase away gloom and
raise one's spirits to cheerfulness. Bright as shone the sun the
cold was most cruelly se\'ere, and there was something very
melancholy, although not wanting in poetic charm, in the
monotonous, incessant flight of legions of ducks, which swiftly
and steadily wiiiged their way down the river, pursuing their
accustomed easterly course in search of more warm and genial
habitations. .But travellers view things practically ; so those
wlio^were not rowing bj'ought out their guns, and innnense
bla^/ing at tlie- «du«k««- went on; seven only, however, were
actual ly^fecuredi.' for the birds flew high and wild, and those
that we merely wouiuled could seldom be recovered.

At niglitfall we drew in to the shore, and kindled our
fire on a dry, sandy beach : then, after supper, we made a
very ])leasant companionable party, all sitting together round
the l)la/ing h)gs, as was our custom before the arrival of the

I •:..

f -^ J;
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lit I

i I

274

FORT EDMONTON

CHAP. XVII.

Saskatcliewan meu. My party now consisted of M'Kay,
M']]eath, ]\Iatlieson, Short, Tonia and Duncan, — who
formed an excellent crew for the CJolden Era. Whisky,
alas ! had deserted u,s, preferring ignoble ease at the Fort to
our good society : soon woidd he regret his short-sighted
selfishness, when compelled to the old toilsome sleigh-work
nnder the tormentor's lash.

Orfohrr 18th. — 'Heavy snowstorm at night. Sleet and
snow, with high north-west wind, continued till late in the
afternoon. It was awfully cold. Took an oar for a couple
of hours to warm myself ; pretty hard work tugging at those
eighteen-foot poles called oars, liiver beginning to freeze.'

Ocfohcr Idth. — 'Cold intense: ground covered with
snow. The intensity of the cold nearly destroys one's
vitality ; several times I felt as if going to faint. . . . The
river is Aery nearly frozen over : mdess a cliange come
t(i-night Ave shall l»e ice-bound, and have to walk a hundred
miles or more to Fort I'itt, where the horses ought to be.'

Oduhi'T 20t/i.~' Snow in the night, frost in the day.
River blocked with great masses of ice : boat closed in.'

Odobcr 2\d. — ' Seeing no prospect of escape, we sent off
IMatheson and Short to bring the horses from Fort Pitt.
Worked hard all morning with the men clearing away the
snow from the camj), and makinj. everything tidy, as we
shall have to stay here some time.

' In the afternoon the men cleared out the Golden Era,
and freed it of snow : I amused myself cutting logs for the fire.

. . . An aurora borealis in tlie region of Ursa jMajor.'

October '22(L — 'Intensely cold night; blankets s})rinkled
with hoar-fntst, notwithstanding the shelter of the tent;
could not put my liead out from under the bulfalo robe witli-
out positive jjuin.'

^1 ::i

' f-

CHAP. XVII.

TO FORT PITT.

27n

. . . ' Wo shall pi'obably liave to stay more tliau a week
iu this wretched place. Nevertheless, I should be a fool
to grumble, though longing to make progress on my home-
ward way, so many proofs have I had that Providence orders
all for the best. For example, at Edmonton we learned that
the Blackfeet have become very hostile, so that Captain
Palliser with difficulty escajjed from them, owing his safety
only to the efforts of Muuroe, his interpreter (brother to my
Munroe), who dissuaded them from an intended attack.
Having got an idea that Government is going to take their
land from them, and that the Expedition was sent to survey
it with that view, they have vowed to murder any white men
who enter their territories ; thus, if the failure of provisions
had not obliged me to give up my plan of crossing the plains
from Bow Fort to Carlton, we shoiild have incurred great
danger, being certain to have met with these treacherous
savages. The horses would have been taken, and probably
our ritles and other property : some of my people even think
we should have been murdered, but that I doubt, though an
Indian war-party is not over scrupulous.

' "Walked a few miles with my rifle, and saw tracks of
small deer. The snow is about [? nine] inches deep.'

Sundrnj, Ocioher 23d. — ' Passed an uncomfortable night,
feverish, and suffering from a bad cold in the head and throat.
Weather continues frosty and intensely cold : river quite
frozen over. Much depressed at the thought of staying
another week in this miserable place, and, after that, two
months' liard travelling to Fort Garry in snow and wretched-
ness. This detention completely upsets all plans. ]\Iy
travels hitherto have often been wearisome enough, but
formerly 1 had hope and novelty for consolers. Now, all
chance of sport is at an end '— . . .

"i ■ "

■; !"

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hi'

r -I

276

FORT EDMONTON

(.HAP. XVII.

October 24:th. — ' Last night was cloudy, the wind changed
to south, and there was very little frost. I am better to-day,
and so is ]\I'Kay, who is suffering from an attack of the same
kind. It seems to be the Edmonton illness, which for some
weeks lias been laying up so many people there, — severe
affection of the stomach, feverishness and cough, — rather an
influenza than a cold. He remarked, justly I think, that
such an illness sooner leaves a man living in the open air
than one shut up in a house.

' One of the great luxuries in tliis change of weather is the
deliverance from having one's bedding frozen wherever the
breath touches it ; it is unpleasant to pass the night with a
collar of ice round one's neck, and a sprinkling of icicles on
one's pillow. Blankets are poor protectors from cold com-
pared to buffolo robes, one robe being more than equal to
three good blankets ; but I doubt if any quantity of cover-
ings could keep a cldlly person warm in these bitter nights.
Be that as it may, I find that even disturbed sleep in the
open air (or under a tent, which is much the same) refreshes
more than the most dreamless slumbers on soft beds in
heated rooms. [Tiiat is, in the long run it is so, though
not always, nor even generally, on any single occasion.]

' ]\I'Kay and JM'Beath went out shooting, but saw
nothing, and found the country, at any distance from the
river, so swampy as to be almost impassable. . . .

— ' Fiiiished a second reading of Bulwer's M^/ Novel, a
work in regard to which the author may well show his pride,
by giving it such a title, implying liis readiness to rest his
fame as a novelist upon it ; — -but what M^ork does not lay
itself open to criticism ?

' I would ask, — Whence is Bandal Leslie sujiposed to de-
rive his powerful, though evil, genius? His father is a

CHAP. XVII.

TO FORT riTT.

277

dc-

liopeless idiot, whose own father appears to have been of
the same sort, and whose mother was a Hazeldean, which is
saying enough. Eandal's mother is a restless fool, and
neither the Montfydgets nor the Dandles conld have trans-
mitted any valuable qualities through her to her progeny.
In like manner, Nora Avenel seems unaccountable in such a
family as that she springs from, and even if we imagine her
genius to have developed itself from some germs in the
parents' minds, we are at a loss to find her brother and
sister, Eichard and Jane, so absolutely her opposites in
character. I am convinced that in real life there is always
a connecting chain, slender though it be, bringing the minds
of near relations into some sort of inner unison, however
great their external differences may seem.

'Another remark — Does not the author over-push the
notion of partially blemishing some of his higher characters
in order that they may not seem unnaturally perfect ? Par-
son Dale's evil tempers at whist (unacknowledged and
unrepented of), however common and trivial the fault, are
so forcibly depicted as to injure the effect of his subsequent
holy exhortations. liiccabocca's grotesqueness is so dwelt
on, that we vainly try to think of him as an Italian patrician
of the sublimest type, when his honours are finally restored.
Harley's schemes of vengeance are pushed so far as per-
manently to affect our belief in his natural generosity, and
his devices become so crafty that his former frankness is
made to look as if it had been mere indolence. Leonard
is at first such an awkward milksop that nothing can
ever raise him in our respect, — let him be poet, orator, or
lover, we cannot separate him from our memories of a
loutish cub well thrashed by Eandal Leslie. Hazeldean is
so stupid, so pompous, so tyrannical, that his good-heart-

1 ! :

! ^

[■■■■ »i

:|4

Is'- fi

278

FORT EDMONTON

CHAP. XVII.

edness and active benevolence melt into the clouds, and
" Prize Ox," the name lie so much resented, seems his most
appropriate designation — if one suppose the beast more stir-
ring and irascible than fat cattle generally are.

* Violante stands out magnificently on the canvas : there
is nothing to interfere with our delight in her noble quali-
ties. What author but Bulwer is able to raise up such an
image of the female character of grandest type, perfect in
beauty, in refinement, in genius, in love ? And Audley
Egertou, who but a master of the art could have created
liim ? Why, Oh why, after the death of his second wife —
a wife married for money — did he retire to the country for a
few weeks, and come back to town " with a new wrinkle on
his brow"? Such an improbable, incongruous sentiment-
alism goes far to make him ridiculous altogether.

' Shakespeare often indicates faults in his higher cliarac-
ters, when misfortunes have to overtake them, lest Heaven
might otherwise be thought too severe towards a worthy
and dutiful child ; he also generally indicates virtues in his
baser characters, that they may be men, not monsters ; but
he does not present these paradoxes so forcibly as to distract
attention from the leading idea. For example : on the one
hand, Desdemona's want of filial duty ; Oplielia's w^eakness
and readiness to act as a spy on her lover ; Cordelia's pride ;
Juliet's unbounded passion ; — on the other hand, Falstaff's
jovial good nature ; Lady Macbeth's wifely and motherly feel-
ings, and her deep remorse ; [even Shylock can cherish a past
love, and bear a warm heart for those of his own nation ;
even Caliban has a dash of goodness in him, some rough
poetic fancy, some power of veneration and attachment].'

[Sir Walter Scott errs constantly in sinking his heroes
too low to be quite re-elevated to their proper lieight. Cer-

OIIAP. XVII.

TO FORT PITT.

279

tain sorts of meanness or baseness are so opposite to the
character of a gentleman, not to say hero, that to attribute
them to any personage who is meant to be an object of
respect or esteem, or even to make the unjust imputation
of them rest on him too heavily and long, robs him beyond
retrieval of our sympathy, and wounds our imagination in
the tenderest part.

Nothing can redeem Waverley from the contempt he has
so fiUly merited as a pitiful turncoat •, Keuneth, in The
Talisma7i, can never lose some traces of the low defaulter's
stigma for quitting the standard he was placed to guard ;
Glenvarloch, in The Fortunes of Nigel, is lowered for ever by
being disgraced at court as a petty, sparrow-hawking gam-
bler; Mordaunt, in The Pirate, is crushed to the earth by
Cleveland's superior force and his own wretched love vacil-
lations ; — in short. Sir Walter's heroes are most often put
into such foul shades, and kept there so long, that they never
recover their brightness, — their souls smell of the dungeon
to the last.]

October 25 th. — ' The wind is high and in a new quarter,
the sun shines once more. The mildness of the westerly wind
has affected the w^eather ; the snow is melting, the ice, though
more than half-a-foot thick, begins to break, and the rising
water piles it up in heaps and runs swiftly in narrow chan-
nels. A few birds, who have found out our feeding times
and make them their own, are singing in a subdued way,
and a spring feeling pervades all nature.'

October 2Qth. — 'The night has been rather cold. The
sun shines as it did yesterday, but there is frost in the air.
Took my rifle and walked a few miles up the river, but saw
no game. We have been here a week to-day; the tedious-
ness is awful.'

-I

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I 1

'■^')l' I

280

FORT EDMONTON

CHA1>. XVII

' I have been reading the second and third parts of " Henry
VI." Would that one could know how much truth there is
in Shakespeare's version of history ! A great poet dealing
with historical themes assumes a mighty responsibility, for
generations untold will be led by his genius to accept his
views of the past. Where one man reads history a hundred
read poetry> and not only believe in the poet's accuracy but
hate those who bring facts tending to cast doubt on it.

' Did great men in the middle ages, or in Shakespeare's
own day, really curse and revile one another as he represents,
or were they content to "use daggers" without "speaking"
them, as folk do now ? Theatres have always required their
poets as well as their artists to scene-paint audaciously, for
the sake of dull or distant eyes.

' The silent, self-contained man who bears down the world
by sheer force of will displayed in deeds not words, who,
passionless as a statue, makes the passions of others his min-
istering sprites, seems to be of modern creation in fiction.
The writers of old were too objective to trouble themselves
with a sort of character that did so much with so little
show, effects seeming to them more valuable than causes.
Modern French romancists particularly delight in these
impassible heroes. They often represent Englishmen, in
such guise. I doubt if they are right ; for though, as com-
pared with foreigners, the Briton works silently and power-
fully, yet the very characteristic of his strength is its free-
dom from that self-consciousness which your romantic in-
scrutable being of indomitable will possesses in the utter-
most degree. The English like work that is done under
right impulses from without, and neither much spoken of
nor thought over previously to its execution ; the French
more esteem work meditated and announced beforehand,

CHAP. XVII.

TO FORT PITT.

281

which the worker can therefore claim as his own creation,
instead of disclaiming all merit in it, as being a mere gift of
circumstance or fortune.'

October 2 ^th. — . rost again at night, followed by a mild
day with bright sun ; the ice melting and cracking. M'Kay
walked eight miles down the river, and reports that about
three miles from this, at a bend between steep banks, the
ice is packed into a dam, below which the stream is open
for as far as- he could see. It is provoking to think that
had we gone on half-an-hour longer at the time we were
stopped, our imprisonment would have been ended some days
ago. There is no way either to break the dam or take the
boat to the clear water below it. . . M'Kay made a
draught-board, and a set of men for the game.'

October 2%th and 29</i. — Mild, sunny spring-like days.
The ice cracking very much up-stream.

Sunday, October 30<A. — 'Another Sunday at this dreary
place. We had hoped to be set free ere this. Never have
I passed such a wearisome time. Each day is like the other.
I rise soon after the sun, then breakfast on cold ham, then
read or think till mid-day unen dine on beef either fresh or
dried, then read or think till dusk (about half-past four
o'clock, I suppose, my watch is not going) ; then the lovely
star Capella appears, and I look at it and think of many
things; then Cassiopeia begins to shine, and soon all the
stars are in their places, each reminding me of some dear
friend with whom I associate it. Then comes supper —
cold ham and tea; then a long time of restless thinking,
till Aldebaran and the Pleiades have passed the large tent
[opposite mine], and the Pointers lean from east to west,
and Arcturus is below the horizon ; and then to bed, " to
sleep, perchance to dream," perchance to toss wearily from
side to side for many a tedious hour.'

282

FORT EDMONTON

ClIAl'. XVII.

;ilt^

October 31.s<. — ' Took my rifle, and walked some five or
six miles down the river. Found everytliin<^ as M'Kay
had reported on Thursday — ice closing the stream for about
three miles below our camp, and then a clear channel as far
as the eye can reach. Saw no game and no fresh tracks,
and got very tired walking in the deep snow.' . .

November \st. — 'Deliverance at last, — thank God!
Almost in despair ; and too weary to read, or do anything, I
lay down about mid-day and tried to sleep ; but my drowsi-
ness was quickly dispelled by the welcome sound of a shot,
soon followed by another, and, in a few minutes, Matheson,
Kline, Macdonald (a Company's man), and Komenakoos) a
famous Indian hunter), came riding in, bringing with them
sixteen horses from Fort Pitt.

' Matheson und Sliort had had a severe journey on foot,
through snow knee-deep for most of the way. The frozen
crust had cut nearly all the skin off Short's legs below the
knees, causing him great suffering. They did not reach
Fort Pitt till the sixth day, and during the last three days
had no food.' [Yet (a'^ it was afterwards told me) these
gallant fellows made no complaints of hunger on arriving at
the Fort, but talked in the most cheerful manner about other
things, until asked by Mr. Chastellain if they would have
something to eat. They kept themselves warm at night, by
partly moving their fire after it had burned an hour or two,
and lying down in the ashes as soon as the place was sufli-
ciently cooled.]

' It seems that we are not more than a day's march from
Edmonton, being twenty miles above the in-faU of White
Mud Creek, a considerable stream that joins the river on
this, its northern, side.

' Truly if hope deferred makes the heart sick, hope satis-

c'H\i'. XV : I.

TO FORT PITT.

283

fied cures the sickness. Before our friends arrived I felt
actiiidly ill, but their coming gave nie the best appetite for
dinner I have had for many a weary day.'

Novcmhcr 2d. — ' ])uring the night there was a change
on the beautiful weather of the last ten days, and an east
wind brought snow in its stead. We started at 10 A.M. in
the face of a storm, and rode for some hours against snow
and bitter wind. In the afternoon the snow left off, but the
cold continued. We camped a few miles beyond White
Mud Creek; it was an uncomfortable canip, for shifting
winds blew the smoke continually into my tent. The river
is quite closed near this — [the open water seen by M'Kay
and myself did not extend very far.]'

Novcmher Zd. — ' Started at daybreak and rode till ten
o'clock. Agonisingly cold yesterday and to-day ; our beards
were hung with icicles; we might have sat for portraits of
the Genius of winter. Eather less cold in the afternoon,
perhaps we felt it less, having fed. Camped near a consi-
derable piece of water called by the Indians " The Spot-ou-
a-Saddle Lake." At sunset it began snowing again.

'During the height of the cold the thought occurred to
me — Why am I enduring this ? For pleasure — was the
only reply, and the idea seemed so absurd that I laughed
myself warm. Then as circulation returned, I remembered
that I was taking a lesson in that most valuable of human
studies — the art of Endurance : an art the poor learn per-
force, and the rich do well to teach themselves — though
truly they have their own trials too, in a different fashion.

I often think of the story of an officer who was so
anxious to harden himself before a campaign against the
Caffres, that he used to leave his comfortable quarters, and
sleep uncovered in the open air during the worst t)f weather

i \

iT <l

284

FORT KDMONTON

i;ifAP. XVII.

the end was, that wlitm niarclii-.j^ orders camo he was too
rheuraatic to go with his rcgimeut. So, iu life, we are apt to
doctor our souls so much with medicines of our owu mixing,
that when Providence gives us our regular allowutuje of allUc-
tion-physic we have not vigour enough to swallow it with
resignation or benefit by its power, and sink into despondency,
instead of finding our strength " renewed like the eagle's."

' Nevertheless, that training of the soul of which bodily
fasts were the symbol, that rending of hearts of which rend-
ing of garments was the typo, is an unfiuestionablo duty —
only not too much of it, for any sake I'

Novcmlcr 4ih. — ' Fine day — turned cold in the evening.
Made a good march, starting before sunrise, and camping
long after sunset.'

Novcmhcr 5 th. — ' Intou oiy cold morning, an east wind
driving particles of frozen suom' against our faces. Cer-
taiidy I shall " remember, remember, the 5th of November,"
for such c<»ld I never felt iu my life. It got a little better
in the afternoon. The sun was shining brightly all day in
a cloudless sky, but his beams seemed as cold as the icy
wind. [We had nothing better than our autumn clothing —
about what one would wear on a cool October day at home —
for, expecting to get to Fort Carlton before the cold began,
we had meant to make our winter outfit there. We were
aV. dressed, in fact, in our Eocky Mountains' garb, except that
I had a tweed overcoat to cover my leather hunting-shirt.]
Crossed Moose Creek, at the mouth of which one of the
Company's boats lies icebound ; then Frog Elver, near which
W(j camped. Komenakoos, staying back, saw ten red-deer
(icapiti) which had passed in front of us [unobserved, owing
to the nature of the ground].'

Sunday, Novemher 6fh. — The weather became milder.

CIIAI'. XVII.

TO FOUT PITT.

986

tho sky clouded over, and thoro was a little snow. Passed
through a very undulating country, al)oundin<^ in lakcis, and
halted for breakfast near "The Two Mountains," about tiftoen
miles from Fort Pitt. Leaviu}^ the rest to come on more
slowly, I rode forward with M'Kay and Macdonald, wishiu},' to
make my arrival in good time. A short way from the Fort
we found Mr. Chastellain, the superintendent, accompanied
by Mr. Lsbister and a ninnber of men with dog-sleighs, waiting
near the track beside a largo fire : they invited us to halt for
our mid-day meal, and we dined together ou some ex(;ellent
white-fish, of which they had just procured twelve hundred
from a fishery on a neighbouring lake.

After this we proceeded to the Fort, where everything
was most hospitably done for our entertainment.

November 7th. — We found it necessary to remain for this
entire day, getting winter clothing, and attending to various
preparations for the long journey that yet lay before us.

' There is a great scarcity of provisions here; the Indians
bring in nothing, and the buffalo are far off. Unless some
change is made, the Saskatchewan district will become worse
than useless to the Company, for neither food nor furs come
this way now, while there are about lifty men employed at
Edmonton, twenty-five here, and twenty-five at Carlton.
It seems to me that they ought to turn cattle-keepers on
a great scale. One difficulty is, that the Indians, and
others, are continually setting fire to the plains, consuming
all the winter stock of hay, — as was the case this year.
Also, that the buffalo are decreasing, while the Indians are
becoming more numerous, and would probably steal and
kill the Company's cattle. They are said, however, to be
rather afraid of a domestic ox, thinking it what the Scotch
call " uncanny," or, to use their own term, " medicine," —

'i ■#

1 <■

1 u

^ '- •

•!■:

■II

28G

FORT EDMONTON

CHAP. XVII.

that is, soiuething mysterious, if uot dovilish. Formerly
there were about uinety cattle at this place, hut both here
and at the other Forts they have been losing great numbers,
besides being obliged to kill many for food.

' Tlie horses at all the Forts are also dying off rapidly,
from a disease which I suppose to be pleura — there is the
greatest scarcity. There is a great scarcity of men too, —
wages have lately had to be raised.

' Farming seems precarious here ; barley, for instance,
does not grow above a foot high, and will not ripen ; u(;thing,
in fact, thrives but vegetables. At Edmonton, however,
wheat as well as barley ripens.

' Had I the power, I should be inclined to make a strong
colony along the Saskatchewan, of Englishmen and Scotch-
men, with their wives, and introduce the system of stock-
feeding, as in Australia. The Company should retain their
privileges in the district so long as necessary to establish
such a colony, which ought to be free or nearly so, and
perhaps, in recom])ense, might have their charter renewed
and made more stringent as to the other districts.' [This,
it will be rememliered, was written in 1859.]

Fort Pitt stands in a country which is very frequently
the scene of Indian warfare, i)laced as it is between the
territories of the Blackfeet and the Crees, and the Fort
itself often becomes the centre of hostilities, Avar-parties
lying in wait for one another in its inmiediate ueighljour-
hood. Mr. Chastellain told me of an incident of this kind
that occuned very close to the Fort. 'A hundred Crees
surrounded a small pine-clump, in which twenty lilackfoot
horse-stealers had concealed tiiemselves. They watched
them the whole night, with fires burning; l)ut Just before
sunrise a aliovt fog si)rang uj), and all the Blackfeet cre])t

ciiAr. XVII.

TO FORT PITT.

287

- it ik

out of their liidiug-place and escaped, except one man who
had been wounded in the previous fight. The Crees found
him lying on his back, with an arrow fixed in his bow, ready
to die game. They cut him into bits, and came back with
his limbs hanging about their horses as ornaments. Mr.
Cliristie recovered one of the unfortunate fellow's arms from
the dogs who were eating it, and had it decently buried.

' All these Indians kill women and children in war-time,
sparing none ; but they never torture their prisoners as the
Delawares and Iroquois of old did. I have made many
inquiries on this point, and have always heard the same.'

The Blackfeet, taken as a body, are among the most nume-
rous and powerful of the nations that live wholly or partly
in British North America. Their confederacy consists of five
distinct tribes — Blackfeet (proper), Piegans, Blood Indians,
and Fall Indians (or Grosventres, who live on the Missouri),
these being of the same race, and the Sircees, a small but very
brave and very mischievous baud, who are of altogether dilfer-
ent race and language, being a party of Chipeweyans (a
people quite distinct from the Chippeways or Ojibways) who
joined the confederacy not many years ago.* [In March
1870 it was stated in the newspapers that smallpox having
carried off the most of the Piegans, the American troops had
surrounded their village, and massacred every soul in it,
killing men, women, and children, to the number of 173.t

i >'

1-:

i-:

* "As the Iiuliiin languag(!.s arc numerous, so do thej' greatly vary in tlu'ir
efTeet on the car. We have the raiiid C6otoonaij [Kootanie] of the Eoeky
irountaiiis, and the stately Black/oot of the phiins, the slow embarrassed Flat-
head of the mountains, the smooth-toned Picrccd-nosc, the guttural diflicult
Sussce [Sirccc] and Clicpcvijav, the sing-song Assincloignc, the deliberate Crcc,
and the sonorous majestic. Chi[)iHnvay [Ojibway]." IIowse, — A Grammar of
the Crec La'iiguagc : Loudon, 1844, p. 13.

t The same incident is relerred to by Captain IJutler {T/ic (/reat Lour

ipti ;

J' .

288

FORT EDMONTON

CHAP. XVII.

Previous to the terrible outbreak of smallpox, which carried
off such multitudes, the Blackfoot confederacy was believed
to comprise from 12,000 to 14,000 people, all included.]

' This powerful confederacy is completely surrounded by
enemies, with whom there is always some pretext for war-
fare. On the north, the Crees and Stonies continually force
on hostilities, for the sake of stealing the Blackfoot horses,
which are far better than their own ; while, in the south, the
Blackfeet make war on the Crows and Flatheads for a
similar reason. The Crows, I am told, are the only Indians
brave enough to attack a camp openly by day.

. . . ' The Blackfeet far surpass the Crees in cleanliness,
and fineness of apparel. Mr. Chastellain gave me a beautiful
specimen of a Blood Indian woman's dress, made from
prepared skins of the mountain-sheep, and richly embroidered
with blue and white beads. Such dresses are now seldom
to be met with. An Indian, trading here one day, stri])ped
his wife of this tunic-formed outer garment, and sold it on
the spot for rum.

' This is a strange country. A good horse is often to be
bought for a gallon of rum ; and yet not only strangers like
myself, but people of the place, will give £20, £30, even
£40, for a buffalo-runner of repute. Here, at Furt Pitt, some
of the men who own horses have asked me £25 for only
moderately good ones, and tliat sort of price I learn they
have often obtained from others.'

[It was from Mr. Chastellain that I heard the following
anecdote, illustrative of the strength and ferocity of the grisly
bear : whetlier he himself or another person were tlie eye-
witness referred to I do not remember, but I know that he
vouclied for the absolute truth of the story.

Land, 1872, p. 360), wlio also gives iiuich information about the progress and
ravages of the smallpox epiilemio.

' jl

CHAP. XVII,

TO FORT PITT,

289

to be
•s like
even
some
only
they

A certain hunter was proceeding to stalk four buffalo
bulls, which he had observed quietly feeding at the out-
skirts of a little wood. While, however, he was yet hardly
within range of them, another actor appeared on the scene,
a grisly of the largest size, who, quitting the covert that had
concealed him, advanced very deliberately towards the
nearest of the four buffaloes.

The bull was too proud to flee from a single opponent,
— it is not their habit to flee except from man, — he lowered
his head and prepared to receive the attack : the conflict
was over in a moment; with one sweep of his paw the
grisly broke the enormous neck of his antagonist, and laid
him lifeless on the ground.

Meanwhile the other bulls had remained as spectators,
taking no part in the conflict, and showing no signs of
excitement or alarm.

The grisly having made an end of one of his foes, now
boldly advanced to the next : the same scene took place as
before, and the second bull lay broken-necked a few yards
from his defeated companion.

A third time the grisly advanced to the attack : for the
third time a similar result followed.

There was now but one bull left. He was younger
than the others, and his horns were consequently still
long, and sharp at the points, instead of being worn and
blunted through rooting in the earth during the fervours of
many seasons. Though smaller than his companions, he
met the savage grisly with equal resolution : there was a
more protracted grapple ; then the bull fell dead with a
broken neck, like the other vanquished three, but the
bear, instead of looking about for further conquests, now
dragged himself off, a miserable object, with his bowels all

^'*;

; <:

* ;

290

FORT EDMONTON

CHAP. xvir.

trailing on the ground, protruding through a huge and
mortal rent inflicted by the horns of the buffalo. He had
but just strength to crawl into the neighbouring bushes, and
there he very shortly afterwards died.

I forget whether it was at this Fort, or elsewhere, that
I was told another curious anecdote, in which the grisly bear
was largely concerned.

Two Indians, Crees or Ojibways most likely, were so
suddenly surprised by a bear, that, after ineffectually dis-
charging their guns, no course presented itself but to take
refuge in the nearest tree, in far too great haste to carry
up their weapons with tliem.

The tree, as it happened, was a mere high naked pole,
with only one lateral branch of sufficient size to support the
weight of a man. Even for that it was hardly sufficient ;
so when Llie Indian wlio went up first had seated himself
on this single percli, the other remained beneath him in
the most miserable position, only preserved from the grip
of the monster that kept close watch below, — for grislies
cannot climb timber, — by clinging round the tree-stem with
all the power of which his arms and knees were > ;apable.

Such a state of things, it was plain, could not long
continue ; the poor fellow soon found his strength relaxing,
and, as he grew weaker and weaker, the thoughts of his
approaching fate, and of his young family left helpless and
destitute — for these people often love their wives and children
very tenderly, — so worked upon his mind that he burst out into
tears and lamentations, while tlie other Indian looked scorn-
fully down upon him from his place of safety above.

The fatal moment came, the \\Tetched man's streniith
gave way, closing his eyes he abandoned himself to his fate,
as his botly went hurtling rapidly through the air. .

CHAP. XVII.

TO FORT PITT.

291

long

fate,

Now, as it cnanced, at that very instant the grisly was
in so exact a line beneath, that our friend, instead of dashing
upon tlie liard ground, plunged right upon the animal's back,
a catastrophe which so astonished the bear that away he
rushed in a panic, as hard as his legs could carry him.

Finding that the enemy had no intention of returning,
the second Indian after a time descended, and, resuming
their guns, the two proceeded together to the encampment
where they both had their home. As they were on the
way, the unlucky hunter, filled with alarm in anticipating
the ridicule he would meet with were his weakness under
prospect of death proclaimed to the tribe, exerted himself in
the most munificent offers to his companion, in the hope of
purchasing his silence ; and he did at length succeed in
extracting a promise of secrecy, but only by the sacrifice of
everything he possessed in the world of the slightest luxury
or value. Stripped of all but the bare necessaries of life,
the poor fellow could yet be happy — his self-respect was
saved.

But, as might be imagined, the man who could take so
base an advantage of a friend's misfortune was not likely to
prove a trustworthy guardian of the secret he had sworn to
preserve. Not many months afterwards, this worthless
villain, as he came staggering through the camp in one of
his accustomed fits of drunkenness, began loudly to proclaim
the story of his friend's disgrace, and hold him up to the
bitterest contempt and ridicule.

The outraged Indian went straight into his tent and
armed himself with a loaded gun, then returning co the
place where the knave was littering his scandals, he took
aim at him in sight of all the people, and shot him tlu'ougli
his traitorous heart.]

CHAPTER XVIII.

lii

\ 1

jil

^kk

■k

'*i4i.i

'■ "H

FORT PITT TO FORT CARLTON.

November Stk. — About mid-day we took leave of the
warmth aud shelter of Fort Pitt, and resumed our cheerless
journey. We were now much better equipped for enduring
the cold, having provided ourselves with a considerable stock
of winter clothing.

My men were all in their new attire : — white flannel
leggings drawn over their trowsers and gartered below the
knee ; moccasins of enormous size, stuffed with Avraps of
blanketing ; thick white or blue capots over their leather
shirts. There were fur caps, too, in great variety : M'Kay had
chosen a round one of otter-skin, M'Beath a muff-shai)ed bear-
skin ; Kline, Matheson, and Toma wore tlie entire skins of
foxes, coiled round their l)road-brimmed felt hats. My own
cap was of marten, with mink under the ear-pieces — but I
am anticipating, this was made for me at Carlton a few days
afterwards. Duncan appeared in a white capot witli a hood
— so transfigured that I hardly knew liim. We were all
furnished with leather mittens, of course ; — roomy, flannel-
lined, fingerless gloves, which we carried slung round our
necks, that our hands might be slipped in and out as cir-
cumstances liappened to require. For my own benefit I
had invented a special luxury, consisting of a pair ot
immense buftalo-robe boots, with the hair inside, very wide
and long, so as to draw easily over everything and come a

CHAI'. XVtII.

FORT PITT TO FORT CARLTON.

293

good way above the knee. While new I thought them
masterpieces, for they were exceedingly warm and comfort-
able, but perpetual scorchings from our liuge camp-fires
burnt and shrivelled them by degrees into much less con-
venient proportions.

The horses all looked vastly the better for their long
rest ; and so did old Lagrace, who, when he arrived at the
Fort, was rather suffering from the effects of the journey,
which had ' ne hard on a man of )iis age. Instead of pack-
sadd we re now provided i^.i horse-sleds, as these
conveyances were generally called. Their construction is of
the simplest nature, nothing more than three thin elastic
boards, turned up in front with a strong curve, and firmly
fastened together, so as to form a platform about ten feet
long, by one and a half wide. A single horse works each of
them in shafts, and draws a considerable load without diffi-
culty. Carts cannot travel in the snow, for at every turn
the wheels clog up with ice, and keep sliding about instead
of revolving in the usual manner.

The river being entirely frozen over, we availed ourselves
of the winter road, which by crossing and recrossing cuts off
a large bend, and offers the advantage of saving about lialf-
a-dozen miles. In most places the snow was at least a foot
in depth, but the day was so fine that we made excellent
progress all the same, not stopping till we arrived at the
Red-deer Hills, where we halted and camped for the night.

Mr. Isbister joined us at supper, and stayed with us till
the following morning. He had travelled from the Fort in
a dog-sleigh of his own, drawn by four very handsome dogs,
— for whom he had been offered a pair of good horses, but
he knew the value of his team too well to part with it.
Some distance on the way he had overtaken an old Indian

ri''

■i

294

FORT PITT

ciur. XVIII.

'ii ^

1 i ^

woman in great distress and perplexity. She was making a
jouraey with two dogs drawing their " travaux," * and had
halted for the night, when to her alarm she found herself
unable to kindle a fire, through the failure of all her matches.
Nothing apparently remained for her but to sleep in the
snow, without fire, and almost without clothing — a pitiable
situation indeed, as the cold was extreme and a snow-storm
beginning to come on. Strange to say, Mr. Isbister had no
matches with him, but to make up for the disappointment
he very kindly Tent her his buffalo robe. Indians can
always light a fire with flint and touchwood, matches, how-
e^^er, are apt to puzzle them ; probably the old woman had
made some ignorant mistake, and thus destroyed the store
on which her life depended.

November 9th. — ' We set out in the teeth of a snow-
storm drifting furiously before a high north wind — the
cold intense. M}^ beard and moustaches were frozen harder
than ever before ; my left eye liad an icicle hanging from
the eyelashes : I expected to be frost-bitten, and kept
rubbing my nose and ears continually — it was positive
suffering. It is melanclioly to think that more than a
month of this hardship lies before us, between this and Fort
Garry. Then a fortnight more of it to St. Paul — fi '^
nature shrinks — all work and sorrow, small hope of sport,
notliing new or curious to be seen — mere labour, labour, labour.

* C'atlin thus describes the <log-vehicle which is designated "travail" or
"train " (v. p. 63, (i7t(c), h\ tlie half-breeds : — " Every cur of them . . .
is encumbered with a car or sled (or whatever it may he better called), on
which he patiently draws his load. . . . Two poles, about fifteen feet
long, are placed upon the dog's shoulder, in the same manner as the lodge-
poles are attached to the horses, leaving the lower ends to drag upon the
ground behind him ; on which is placed a bundle or wallet which is allotted
to him to carr}'." CATLiy,— North Am. Ind., vol. i. p. 45.

.. !i.i

ciiAi'. xviir.

TO FORT (JARLTON.

295

' It was ratlier less cold after breakfast, but the wind and
snow lasted all day. Camped early at English River,
where Wawpooss fell with me on the Ist of August.'

Novemher lO^A. — 'Snowing, and very cold in the morn-
ing, and misty all day ; the snow, however, ceased about
noon. Saw three buffido bulls near Horse Hill, — where we
dined, — and afterwards a band c. ./oout twenty. I tried an
approach on foot, while two of the men went round on
horseback. They were in so bad a place no one could have
stalked them ; the men had a shot, but killed nothing.

' Halted at Turtle River, after a very short march. In
the wood which sheltered our camp we found a platform
on which a quantity of buffalo meat had been stored by
Indians, or half-breed hunters, and from this we took enough
for supper, — according to the rule of the country, which is
the same as that of the old Scotch goosebeiTy-garden — " Eat
what ye can, but pouch nane." '

Novemler llth. — 'A fine day, clear and sunny in the
afternoon. Dined a few miles beyond White Mud Lake,
which we crossed on the ice. Little did I think, during the
pleasant Sunday passed by us on the banks of this lake last
August, that we shoidd come homewards riding our horses
upon the surface of those waters, which I then beheld
gleaming under the powerful rays of the summer sun, and
never expected to look upon again.

' It is astonishing how winter transforms an uncultivated
country. There are no houses and fences to serve as land-
marks, and divide the snowy waste ; all that lovely colouring
of trees, grass, and water, which in the genial months of the
year lends charm and variety to the scene, is hidden and
obliterated under a garment of weary whiteness. The
plains are mere heaps of snow, dotted with brown spots
Avhere naked clumps of poplar brush uplift their heads,

ri-

W< k

290

FORT PITT

CHAP. XVIII.

und the lukes are only distinguishablo by the absence of
bushes, and by the greater smoothness of their surface.

' In the evening we reached Jack-fish Lake, and marclied
on the ire, keeping always close to the shore. This lake is
bordered by hills on the northern side, so tliat even now it
is picturesque; in summer it is very beautiful.

' We camped about sundown, — the sun setting in a clear
sky, and the moon rising full-orbed, out of a purple and
orange cloud, ovp^ the low mountains of the lake.

' Yesterday we found a little Indian dog beside a deserted
camp, — very nearly starved. It followed us, and we fed it
and treated it kindly. Poor wretch, she can hardl) keep
up, and every now and then howls dolefully. Pointer is
half killed by the cold, he whines and trembles all day
long.' [We made him a blanket-coat to cover his thin and
delicate skin, but he constantly twisted it and entangled his
legs, so we were obliged to take it away. He got safely, how-
ever, to the journey's end, and was left at Carlton or Pelly,
I forget which, to pass the rest of the winter, before return-
ing to Mr. M'Kay at Fort EUice.]

Novemher \'2th. — ' Marched more than an hour before sun-
rise ; cold intense ; my men supposed it to be 30° below zero.
It is sometimes 50° below zero, in this part of the country.

' Dined at the lake where we camped on the 29th of
July, and crossed it on the ice, — soon after which we saw
four bufi'alo bulls. Met a party from Carlton bringing the
mail, and likewise the " gieen hands " — as the newly-engagud
men are called— for the upper Forts. The verdant ones
consisted of five or six young Scotch lads, who did not look
half strong enough for the work in store for them. It was
useful to have their track to go on, as it relieved us from
the necessity of sending two r.ien forward on snow-shoes to
make a path for the sledges.

Jl.

CHAP. XVIII.

TO FORT CARLTON.

297

' The weather was sunny and brif^ht ; our road passed
through a picturesciue liilly country. In the evening we
camped by a chnnp of poplars, about twelve miles from
" The Springs." There was nn aurora during the night.
For part of the time the light swept in an upward curve
from Aldebarau to Capella, and thence ran in several hori-
zontal bands througli Ursa Major, all of them ending on a
line with the level of Arcturus.'

[T think it was on this day that the setting sun shed wild
and wonderful lines over a snow-covered range of hills
directly in front of us. They seemed *to be all aglow with
fire; not in soft roseate or golden tints, but with a super-
natural, lurid glare of cold combustion, a hellish light, hateful
though beautiful to behold. One other day, about the same
time, I was more than commonly struck witli the exquisite
beauty of the contrast, where the glittering white intensity
of the snowy, boundles.s plains, cat sharp against the clear
azure intensity of the boimdless sky, unsullied by the slightest
speck of cloud. It was the very type of " light without
sweetness," — of a pure passionless angel of judgment, to
whom error and mercy were alike unknown.]

Sunday, Novemhi'v VMh. — ' Off before sunrise: weather

clear and comparatively mild After dinner

the wind blew hard from the east, and a snow-storm began.
The cold was very great, as the snow came violently against
our faces. We rode on till some while after dark, and by the
time we halted my eyes were nearly frozen up, — my mouth
had been all but closed long before, beard and moustaches
being glued together in a solid mass of ice. [For part of
the way our road was hardly discoverable, so heavy was the
storm ; M'Kay, however, with the assistance of Short, who
seemed almost to work by instinct, unfailingly managed to
preserve the right direction.] At length we arrived at a lake

'('

298

FORT PITT

riiAP. xviii.

i ■'

ttl

called " L« Lac do I'Ourfl «iui nii;,'o," — al«>ut five milos from
•where wo Imd halted on our second ni^dit fVtun Carlton,- —and
there encamped. Two or three honrs afterwards the 8now
ceased to fall, and a ainj^lo streak of anrora, resendilin^ the
tail of a comet, appeared in tlie western sky.'

Norcmhcr 14(/i. — 'A little snow in the mornin}^, but
afterwards it was a fine sunny day — what we called v)arm,
though every hreath of wind diH])ellod that illusion.

' Camped early near Salt Lake, because there is a scarcity
of wood farther on ; — a few buffaloes were moving about on
the other side.

'The country has been very pretty to-day, wooded and
hilly, with innumevable lakes, of all sizes, wherever there is
a hollow. Many of them are most fantastically shaped.
They stand at all levels, some near the tops of the hills,
some half-way down, others — generally mudi larger — in the
valleys below.'

November 15th. — Reached Fort Carlton early in the
afternoon.

November l(it?fr-18th. — Chiefly occupied in buying and

exchanging horses, as some of my band were unfit to go

farther, and those left here in summer were still weak from

an attack of the epidemic, which had seized them soon after

they came. Vermont was looking pretty well, but poor

little Morgan was the mere shadow of his former self. I

had intended to take them home with me, but this being

now out of the question, I was glad to place them in good

hands, by an arrangement with Mr. Hardisty, who wished to

become their owner. ■^' Six other horses were also to be left

behind, — the St. Paul waggoners Paul and Anthony, the

* In a letter dated Novemher 12tli, 1860, Mr. Mactavish wrote as follows :
— "Mr. Hardisty was here [Fort Garry] during ipost of the summer, but
returns to Carlton in autumn, where, 1 have lately learned, your ponies were
in capital case. "

''(■■v

CHAP. XVIII

TO FORT CARLTON.

299

little IMtt-Biclum, Blond alidH M'Ciillis, Wiuvpooss the second,
and the M'Lood Kiver skewbald stallion.

Ainonj^ those newly added to my lot was a very pretty
long-tailed bay pony, named " Ned," which Mr. Ilardisty
transferred to me in part exchange for Morgan and Vermont.
Ned — who was said to be a first-rate biiffalo-runnner, and had
all tlie appeiiranco of it — had originally belonged to the Black-
feet, from whom he had been stolen by the Crees. When
brought in by his captors, he was found to be painted over
with curious devices and scented with aromatic herbs,
which showed how much he had been valued by his former
possessor. The Blackfeet are said t- be very fond of their
horses and very careful of them, differing in that respect
from the Crees and Assiniboines, who are rough and unmerci-
ful masters. I was also to receive, as part of another b 'gain,
the fine young bay horse that Napesskes rode back o'u the
horse-guard after our visit to that j)lace in J" W ; being now
fairly broke in, it had become a handy, quiet an*! very useful
animal.

[By Mr. Hardisty's orders, a great drove of horses had
been gathered together in an enclosure, for tiie purpose of
choosing out those to be allotted to me on l-'re or exchange.
As each animal ^\'as selected, a noose was thrown over his
head, and he at once yielded himself an unresisting captive.
One cast, however, uiduckily missed its mark, and the noose,
dropping among the feet of the hurrying crowd of horses,
fixed and tightened itself rouL<; '.Vq hind fetlock of a very
handsome white mare, — unbroke and unhandled, and as wild
as any prairie buffalo. Her efforts to escape were frantic ;
though several men went to help with the line they could
barely hold her, far lesii overpower her.

Strong measures now became necessary, for at any cost
her foot had to be disentangled ; another line was brought,

111

•fiwii

' '^t

300

FORT PITT TO FORT CARLTON.

CHAP. XVIII.

=i: ri"

-i

( \

lli

'ii

Oil

the noose was cast round her neck, and then all hands
pulled together till she was choked into insensibility. Never
did I witness such struggles. She writhed and strained
against the rope, her veins swelling, her eyes starting from
their sockets ; she reared, she pawed the air with a sublime
fury ; — but her efforts were vain, the line pressed tighter
and tighter, drawn yet more closely by her own violence,
and in a few moments she lay helpless on the ground.
The nooses were taken off": ere long she recovered,
and galloped away, apparently none the worse for her
adventure.]

The weather had again become much colder than during
the last few days. No thermometer could be found at the
Fort, but reference to a register formerly kept, gave 54° below
zero as the extrrmest cold of the previous winter season.
This was the temperature one day in February [1858].

Novcmhcr l^th. — We left the Fort after dinner, and
made a short march of three miles, to place ourselves in
readiness for the journey on the following day. Mr.
Hardisty rode with me till we camped, and stayed for a few
hours afterwards : and then we parted, to my very sincere
regret, for it grieved me to bid farewell to a companion so
agreeable, and a friend so obliging, as he had constantly
proved himself during my two visits to Fort Carlton.*

There were now fifteen horses in our band. We liad
added anotlier sled to the former number, making five in all, —
by no means too many for the bulk and weight of our bag-
gage and provision stores.

* Mr. llanlisty at present (1874) resides at Fort Edmoiitoi), occupying the
important position of Hudson's Hay Company's Cliiel'-OHicer in tlie Saskat-
chewan district.

lii

? ?ii

:-»C

CHAPTER XIX.

'■' p

in f

■»'

'!-'

„ ■■

FORT CARLTON TO TOUCHWOOD HILLS.

Sunday, November 20th. — 'Marched at 8 a.m., and
crossed the South Saskatchewan between three and four hours
afterwards. It is narrow at this point, the banks perhaps
250 yards apart, the water not above 130 yards from shore to
shore. The country between the rivers seems rich and well
wooded, and abounds in lakes. It looks suitable for settlement.

' "We camped about three miles from the crossing-place.
The little Indian dog ate our fresh meat last night, and as
it would not be driven back to the Fort, the men were
obliged to kill it.

' Had " berry-pemmicau "at supper.' [That is to say,
the ordinary buffalo pemmican, with Saskootoom * berries
sprinkled through it at the time of malving, — which acts
as currant jelly does with venison, correcting the greasiness
of the fat by a sliglitly acid sweetness. Sometimes wild
cherries are used instead of the Meesasskootoom-meena.
Berry-pemmican is usually the best of its kind, but poor is
the best. Take scrapings from the driest outside corner of
a very stale piece of cold roast beef, add to it lumps of
tallowy rancid fat, then garnish all with long human hairs
(on which string pieces, like beads, upon a necklace), and
short hairs of oxen, or dogs, or both, — and you have a fair
imitation of common pemmican, though I should ratlier
suppose it to be less nasty.

* See footnote, p. Sti.

'I!
I'll

- * t •

n ■

•i .!

■*.[-■ :

-ft

[ i

I ?

hi<

ii
I

302

FORT CARLTON

CHAP. XIX.

Pemmican is most endurable when uncooked. My men
used to fry it with grease, sometimes stirring-in flour, and
making a flabby mess, called " rubaboo," which I found
almost uneatable. Carefully-made pemmican, such as that
flavoured with the Saskootoom berries, or some that we got
from the mission at St. Ann, or the sheep-pemmican given
us by the Eocky Mountain hunters, is nearly good, — but,
in two senses, a little of it goes a long way.]

JVovember 21st. — Marched at 7 a.m., and camped at 4
P.M. The country continues much the same, but towards
evening we passed some hills, and crossed a plain which
was rather bare of wood. Saw four black-tailed deer at a
distance. Mild hazy day, heavy snow at sunset, and a
little during the night.'

Novemher 22d. — 'The mildest morning we have had for
several weeks. Hazy weather till mid-day, after which it
partly cleared up, and occasional snow showers from the
south-east began to fall.

' The snow was exceedingly deep and soft. Kline and
Short made the track with snow-shoes till dinner-time.
[Had they not gone forward to tread down the surface, the
heavily laden sleds would have sunk too deeply.] Hav-
ing no guide we got off the proper line, and lost a mile or
two.

' The horse Napesskes, whom the other day no flogging
could induce to work in the shafts, drew very well this
morning, after a short resistance at starting. Some of these
horses will not yield to any amount of punishment at the
time, but they remember it, and give in at once on the next
occasion.

' It grieves me tliat the whip has to be kept so constantly
going. None of my men are cruel — quite the contrary, so

CHAP. XIX.

TO TOUCHWOOD HILLS.

303

far as I can judge — but when obstinate or tired horses have
either to be driven by main force, or left on the road, there
is really no choice. In riding it is the same. Many of the
horses have such an objection to leave or pass the rest, that
nothing short of absolute toiling at whip and spur will
move them forward. Then, if you choose to ride in front,
farewell to ease ; your beast creeps as if his back were
of one single bone ; if you turn in the saddle or slack your
rein, or make any sort of movement, he instantly stops and
perhaps begins to graze ; and if you urge him on, he neighs
to his companions till your head aches from the horrible
noise. Very different is it if you winh to stop behind; the
dull slug wakens into a fuiy, and rears and pulls and fights
till you allow him to reijin the band.

'All the guides, I have noticed, have the same plan for
overcoming unwillingness. At every step of the horse they
touch iiim very lightly with the whip, about every fifty
steps they strike him a single but much liarder blow, and
perhaps twice in the mile they " conciliate " him, somewhat
in the style of the butcher in Hood's " Ode to Eae
Wilsou, Esquire."'^''

uutly
ry, so

'"Tho man had whooped and bel-
lowed till dead hoarse,

The time was ripe for mild expos-
tulation,

And thus it stammered from a

stander-by —
' Zounds ! my good fellow, — it quite
makes me — why

It really — my dear fellow — do just
try

Conciliation ! '

Stringing his nerves like flint,

The sturdy butcher seized upon the
hint, —

At least he seized upon the fore-
most wether, —

And hugged, and lugged, and tugged
him neck and crop,

Just nolens volcns through the open
shop —

If tails came off he didn't care a
feather, —

Then walking to the door, and
smiling grim,

He rubbed his forehead and liis
sleeve together —
' Tiiere ! I've conciliated him ! ' "

l"i

1 f

304

FORT CARLTON

CHAP. XIX.

' Those who have not known the misery of riding a half-
wild, half-broke, obstinate, under-bred, grass-fed beast, can
scarcely imagine the difference between such a creature and
the well-bred, well-fed, well-broke horse one rides at home.
Even in the latter's fatigue or laziness there is a certain
respectability, but these Indian animals are provoking even
at their best; owing to their odious sociability, which leads
them only to care for one another, while they treat their
rider as a mere encumbrance, to be jogged about as it
pleases them, like auy other pack, not as the master whose
will is their proper guide.'

It was amusing to listen to the men shouting to their
horses, in a Canadian jargon, calling them the oddest names.
" Ah ! pecheur ! " I heard Short cry to an offending one,
with solemn reprobation in his tones. Crapaud was the
usual term of abuse, — most frequently with an objectionable
prefix. Matheson, who did not speak mucli Frencli, ended
his more serious lectures with — " Ah ! vion crapaud," — in
a sort of " Et tu. Brute " strain.

November 22td. — 'AVe could not start till near 11 o'clock,
as Cendrt' had strayed. He was found near our yesterday's
diniug-place, having probably lost the other horses when they
were being driven-in early tliis morning, and gone back in
search of them. We then marched without halting till
sunset, and camped in a clump of trees, about two miles
from an extensive prairie.

' Much colder day, — small hard snow constantly driven
into our faces by a high south-easterly gale. For the last
month we have hardly had a fair wind, actually never when
snow has been falling. Our fate seems to be that to which
prophecy dooms a certain ancient family for their ancestor's
share in Thomas A'Beckett's murder —

CHAP. XIX.

miles

driven
the last
when

which
cestor's

TO TOUCHWOOD HILLS.

The Tracies,

30r)

Shall always have the wind in their faces."

'The country we passed through to-day is high and
rather bleak. There is little wood, though plenty of stunted
brush. The soil seems poor.

' Put Jasper into harness for the first time, and made
him haul a sled. He took to it kindly ; in fact, he will do
anything except go fast, or first.'

November 24th. — ' The wind turned to north last night,
and the stars were visible once more ; Orion is now com-
pletely seen about 8 p.m. We marched at 6.45 this morning,
and took four hours to cross the plain. A snow-storm
then burst out, obscuring the whole country, and as none of
us knew the track we were obliged to halt and camp where
we were.'

November 25Ji. — Tour inches of snow fell in course of
the night. My tent was uncomfortably placed, its back
being set directly to the wind, — the result of which is,
that eddies are formed on both sides, bringing with them
the snow or rain, and driving-in puffs of smoke from the
fire, whilfe most of the heat is carried away. It is best to
pitch with one side against the wind ; the smoke and heat
then take their proper course, and by drawing out part of
the windward door-flap, good shelter is obtained.

' There is much art in building a fire. If you merely
lieap sticks together on the ground, no quantity of fuel gives
satisfactory results. You must begin by placing two green
logs at right angles to the intended line of your fire, you then
lay the sticks and the dry logs across them ; this secures a
strong current of air below, raises the newly liglited flame
above the damp, and forms a steady foundation for any size
of pile.' [For kindling a fire, when well-dried twigs are

("i

' i

306

FORT CARLTON

i-IIAV. XIX.

scarce, pare shavings from a stick with your knife. If all
the wood is wet, cut into a log and take shavings from near
the heart, at which depth there will seldom be much
dampness.]

' Pine logs are the best, burning with a brilliant light
and aromatic smell ; poplar, however, is the only available tree
in the prairie districts. When dry it answers very well :
its gi-eat fault is its explosiveness. You feel as if standing
a siege, as crack follows crack at measured intervals ; while
each report is accompanied with a red-hot projectile shot
slowly through the air, and dropped with precision on some
weak point in the fortress — your blankets perhaps, or the
dry grass at your feet, or some article of clothing that may
lie open to attack.

' The wind shifted to the west to-day, but snow fell
frequently and the sky became thick with haze, so we
camped early at the edge of the great plain [as we supposed
it], having only marched about ten miles. Saw a single
buffalo bull.'

Novanher 2iJth. — 'Westerly wind; fine, clear day, but
very cold. Crossed the plain in about four and a half hours,
and finding timber, an hour afterwards, thought it advisable
to camp. The want of a guide compels us to these short
marches. Everywh-^re the snow lies about two feet deep,
and tlie cart track has been long obliterated, so that when
the country is shrouded in mist we cannot go forward, and
our fear of not finding firewood about nightfall, leads us
to camp early, as soon as a suitable place occurs. After
Touchwood Hills we expect to get on better.

' Saw another solitary buffalo bull. M'Kay rode off
after a fox, and I joined him near the finish — getting a roll
in the snow, l)y the bye, from old Cendr^'s putting his foot

KV. XIX.

If all

n near

much

.t light
ble tree
y well :
landing
; while
lie shot
Du some
I, or the
tiat may

low fell
, so we
supposed
a single

ay, bnt
f hours,
idvisable
se short
et deep,
at when
ard, and
eads us
After

rode off
ng a roll
his foot

ntAP. XIX.

TO TOUCHWOOD HILLS.

307

into a badger-liole. The unfortunate fox could not run fast
in the deep snow, and, after struggling on for a mile, tried
to hide among some bushes, whence he was s ^n drawn
out, and killed by a few blows on the nose.'

[We ran another fox, and lost him in the strangest way,
just as we thought him our own. M'Kay pressed him hard
on one side, and I on the other, his strength was failing, —
his chance seemed hopeless, for no shelter lay before him,
neither bush nor hollow, only a vast white expanse of glitter-
ing smoothness. Still he laboured on, and we wondered at
his courage : but the secret was soon revealed, — on a sudden
he made an active spring, and disappeared head foremost
into the snow. Down we leapt to secure him — behold a
gaping badger-hole, pointing towards the centre of the
earth !

By what instinct could the fox discover the exact posi-
tion of that hole ? He went through the thick mass of snow
in one clean header, straight as a plummet to his mark.
No difference on the smooth, shining surface was visible to
us, yet the fox, in all his fear and peril, could exactly light
upon the entrance of this concealed, and apparently long
unfrequented, burrow.]

' The fur of our fox was '•' prime," — as the phrase is
here,- — that is to say, he was in his complete winter coat,
which had not been long enough in wear to become torn or
rusty. In buffalo robes the season makes a great difference.
Before November the hair is not long enough, and after
New Year's day it gets ragged, and its rich black-brcwu is
bleached to the colour of tow, especially along the animal's
back. The robes are generally taken from cows, and some-
times from young bulls, but never from the old buUs, whose
hides are much too thick and heavy.

[■ K

308

FORT CARLTON

OHAP. XIX.

'i f

. I

' Most robes are found to have been split down the
middle and sewn up again, the object for this process being
to lighten the labour of dressing the skin, ris few women are
able to prepare a comi>lete hide without assistance. Some
Indians, when asked why they have married more than one
wife, will answer that each wife requires another to help
her in dressing the robes.

' Just before sunset I observed two false suns, swimming
in small, nearly perpendicular segments of a circle of pris-
matic colours, on each side of the true sun. This appear-
ance, I am told, is common ; two other false suns are also
frequently visible above and below, the whole forming a
cross of five orbs. Night clear : an aurora-light in the west,
whence the wind continued to blow.'

Sunday, November 27t/i. — 'Marched for about three
hours among brush and poi)lar clumps, and at noon found
ourselves at the edge of a great plain, utterly bare, bounded
by a faint blue line of distant wood, amidst which some
low hills appeared. M'Kay and I held a short consultation,
— whether to camp now, or push on without stopping for
dinner, at the risk of having to camp on the open plain,
without fuel, — and decided on the latter course, as we could
not bear losing another day. Accordingly we marched.

' At sunset the woods appeared little nearer than before,
but wo pressed on till long after dark, looping to reach
some shelter. Suddenly we found ourselves in a swamp, of
tlie kind that never completely freezes ; ^'' our horses were
plunging abuat, up to their girths in mire ; it became im-
possible to proceed, so we halted where we were, and took a
hasty supper, consisting of cold pemmican, with the water we
succeeded in melting from snow by burning wisps of grass.

* It liail some saline or niineral properties.

grass.

niAr. XIX.

TO TOUCHWOOD HILLS.

309

If there hud been rushes, we might have made a hot enough
fire to boil our kettle, but with grass this cannot be done.

' The night was not so cold as it often is, and we slept
pretty comfortably. The wind was south-west and not
high : had a storm arisen, the horses, unable to endure it on
so bare a plain, would liave run before the wind all night,
and we should probably have lost them.'

November 28th. — ' Set off' about 8 o'clock, with a bitter
cold south-easterly gale right in our faces. We crossed the
swamp by going round a little way, and hoped soon to gain
the woods, which seemed about six miles distant ; but we
were woefully deceived, through the levelness of the snow-
covered plain, and it cost us three hours and a half of hard
work to get to the first poplar 'lumps, which are several
miles from the real woods themselves. Breakfast and fire,
however, were so welcome as to renio' ^ all discontented
feelings ; and at 2 o'clock we continued our march, intend-
ing to camp about sunset ; but, just as we thought of halting,
we came upon fresh snow-shoe tracks froni the very direc-
tion in which we supposed the Fort to lie, — so we went on,
in the faint hope of getting there that night.

' The light at this season keeps tolerably good for more
than an hour after sunset, and the. clearness of the sky
enabled us to follow the tracks ; it grew very dark at last,
and we were preparing to halt, but at that moment heard
the barking of dogs, and riding to the brow of the next slope
beheld sparks proceeding from a chimney ; a welcome illu-
mination, which in a few minutes guided us to the door of
Touchwood Hills Fort, — where we were hospitably re-
ceived by the superintendent, Mr. Taylor. It was a great
pleasure to find three newspapers with European news up to
the 30th June — the time of the conchision of the armistice
after the battle of Solferino.'

il ,

v: ,1

7' ■W'

f '

310

KOIIT (.'AULTON

CIIAl'. XIX.

November 29th. — A treiiiendous stovin set in, with high
north-west wind and lieavy snow ; we were glad to be safely
sheltered in the Fort. It was a rough little settlement, but
extremely habitable in its way : the large room in particular,
with its l(tg-i)iled hearth directly opposite the door, was the
very model of homely comfort and cheerfulness.

— ' Heard from Mi-. Taylor that we had made a naiTOW
escape when at the Ell)ow last July. A large camp of
Crees, it seems, had despatclied twelve men to follow on our
track, with the view of getting tobacco and anything else
they could. They came to where we had crossed the South
Bran(3h, the very day that we set out froni the opposite side
of the river, and tliere, to their surprise, observed a camp of
Blaci\feet occupying the ground we had just left. On sight of
their enemies, they instantly turned buck, hoping they had
not been noticed, but the Blackfeet had seen them, and at
once despatched all their available warriors to pursue them
to their camp, and endeavour to steal some horses.

'The Blackfeet party succeeded in getting among the
horses at night, and were beginning to drive them away,
when the Crees discovered them, and rushed to the attack
with a superior force ; upon which the invaders made their
retreat, and all got clear off, except one man who had been
unlucky enough to mount himself on a very slow old mare
belonging to his enemies.

' Finding that he could not escape by flight, he dis-
mounted and hid in a thicket, trusting that the darkness
would conceal him ; but a young Assiniboine, who was with
the Crees, thinking he saw sometliing run into the bush,
went to examine it more closely, and verified his observation
by feel-ng an arrow graze his side, as he nearly trod on the
lurking warrior.

CMAI'. .'IX.

TO TOUCHWOOD HILLS.

311

,?'r|

mare

' Like liglitnin*:^ he stovo in the Hlackfoot's head with his
tomahawk, ami, the Crees coming up, a liorriblo scene ensned.
Not content with scalping their victim, they skinned his limb.s
and cut him in pieces, they ate his flesh and draidc his blood ;
and made their apiiearance at this Fort, displaying portions
of the poor wretch's body as trophies. His hair was grey.

'As concerns me, this allair resembles the story of the
man pursued by a tiger on one side and a crocodile on the
other. The tiger springs into the reptile's jaws, the man
meanwhile escapes. Had the Bhickfeet not seen and followed
the Crees, they would certainly have tracked my party, and
at the least tried to steal our horses, — vvhich we should' have
resisted, and lives would have been lost, — nay, probably tV.ey
would have attacked us at once, as the tribe has become so
bitterly hostile to Europeans this year.

' Had we been overtaken by the Crees, our horses would
have been in danger, though these Indians are friendly with
the whites, and in many ways they would have been
troublesome visitors. We have reason to thank God for
preserving us from these dangers — dangers we could not have
avoided, whose very existence we were ignorant of. A few

weeks ago, Mr. Taylor was informed by Mr. S [an

Knglish gentleman travelling in the country], that it wls
believed that I and all my men had been killed by the
Blackfeet. I trust this report will not reach home.'

ir.

<•

CHAPTER XX.

TOUCHWOOD HILLS TO FORT PELLY.

November 30//i. — About ono o'clock in tho aftoraoon
we took our doparturo from Toiu'lnvood Hills Fort. We
found ourselves obliged to leave Jasper and Mousey behind,
both being so utterly exhausted as to be unfit for further work,
■without a good long interval for repose. In the latter I took
no interest at all, but it distressed me to part with the
handsome jtony which had carried me so gallantly in the
Eocky Mountains. lUit he was now reduced to a skeleton,
by cold, poor feeding, and the unwonted labour of hauling
at a sled, to which necessity had comjielled us to subject
him, and I saw that leaving him at once in comfortable
tjuarters was the only chance of saving his life. Unhappily
it was not so fated. While staying at Fort Pelly, towards
the end of the year, a man, who arrived from the other Fort,
brought me the news of Poor Jasper's decease. He died
a few days after we left him, from an attack of inflammation,
l>rought on perh.aps by a too sudden change from cold and
hunger to warmth and plentiful food.

The day of our departure was clear and intensely cold ;
there was a high wind also, but happily our old experience
was reversed, and the strength of the gale fell merely on
our backs, as we continued our journey towards the south-
east. I doubt if the Fort we then quitted any longer exists.

. irAi-. XX. TOUCHWOOD IIII.I.S TO FOUT I'KM.Y.

313

for wo heard of an iiit(^iition to inovo it the foUowiiij,' smiinior
to Little Tou('hvvo(j(l Hills, — ii place about thirty miles dis-
tant, in the direction of (.(Jii'appelle Fort, which was also to
be dismantled, and the two posts conjoined.

The country that afternoon was hilly, and diversified
with many small hikes : it was apparently thickly wooded,
but no trees of any size were to be seen, — a shabby growth
of willow and poplar brush for the most part overspreading
the ground.

Decemlnr \st. — ' Tntcns(!ly cold night. My gloves hav-
ing gone astray, I had to wait some time after breakfast
was ready till they were found, for the steel in the knife
and ft)rk lumdles stuck to my skin, Ijurning like hot iron.
The tea-cup kept freezing to the saucer when any tea ran
over, requiring some little force to remove it. Taking up a
brass candlestick hastily, I had to dro]> it more hastily — it
felt red-hot.

* The sun fortunately shone lirightly all day, and lessened
the cold, and the wind was still at our back. We made a
six hours' march without halting, crossing a bare plain about
twelve miles wide, near tlie edge of which we camped, hav-
ing altogether marched some eighteen miles. — lie-reading
"Troilus and Cressida." '

[As I read this fine, although singular play, certain lines
in Agamemnon's speech to the princes so forcibly impressed
themselves on me, that for days afterwards they were con-
stantly in my thoughts, as strengtheuers and consolers
amidst all the hardships of the journey. "When the frost
bit keenest, and the icy winds congealed one's blood, and
the men were cheerless and silent, and the skeleton horses
slaved wearily along, — hour follo\\'ing hour in miserable
monotony, till life was- almost too grievous to endure, — ever

ifhi^;

i , :. f

1 > i-

314

TOUCHWOOD HILLS

CHAP. XX.

and again some angel's voice seemed to breathe into my
inner hearing, in calm yet triumphant tones —

" And car theiu shames ? which are indeed nought else
But the protractive trials of great Jove
To find persistive constancy in man :
The fineness of which metal is not found
In fortune's love."

It is true that these words were not entirely appropri-
ate, — fo." we could not have retreated if we would, — but they
were not the less consoling : Shakespeare's utterances are
magical, there is 'occult virtue in them. They speak in
plain language to the understanding, it they have also an
inexplicable power to strengthen the spirit in mysterious,
hidden ways.]

December 2d. — ' Tried the snow-shoes for the first time,
and walked in them for an hour, gettibg on capitally, with
the exception of two or three falls at starting. It is a great
relief to tread on the firm surface which the snow-shoe gives,
for wading througli deep snow is most fatiguing ; but the
weight liangiug on one's legs soon begins to tell, and even
experienced walkers are apt to get their feet badly cut by
the frozen straps.

' Some of the horses, especially the two Cendrc^s, have
lost the hai^ from the lower part of their legs, through the
sharpness of the hard crusted snow, and the frost acting on
the exposed skin has opened bleeding wounds. This is one
great drawback to travelling with horses in winter.

• We marched about eighteen miles, and camped at dusk
by tiie Beaver Hill Creek. Just before sunset the wind
changed to east, and light snow showers began to fall. It
grew extremely cold, and the wood being damp did not
bum freely, a great misery under such circumstances.'

?*^

CHAP. XX.

TO FORT PELLY.

315

dusk

wiud

. It

d not

[The intensity of the cold produced an effect I do not
remember observing before or since, — it seemed to crush
out the vitality of the fire. As soon as the feeble flame
arose, it lost its colour, and died out gradually from the
point downwards. It must have been a good half-hour
before the fire was fairly kindled, and till then it threw out
scarcely a ray of heat. Our camp was in a low-lying
dampish hollow, closely surrounded by young poplar-brush.]

December 'Sd. — ' Milder day, but snowing a little.
Started late, and camped early at the Smoke Tent Wood
— distance about twelve miles. This is called half-way to
Fort Pelly. We have been passing through more wood than
of late, but the couri':ry keeps a prairie character, and bears no
appearance of fertility. M'Kay had tea with me to-night.'
[I ahvays took my meals alone, unless now and then when
M'Kay joined me on special invitation. Breakfast, dinner,
tea, or supper — whatever the name of the repast — it con-
sisted much of the same materials, — tea, flour-cakes, and
such meat as happened to be available. At this particular
time my own dish was generally supplied with slices of beef,
cut from huge frozen joints brought from one or other of the
Forts. Sometimes I chose dried meat for a variety, but
pemmicau — the chief food of the rest of the party — I
seldom cared to taste. When currants or raisins were among
oui stcr-^s. Toma would boil them with flour or rice, and
serve up very toleia^^'- i^uddings. Near the Elbow he made
me a delicious jelly with ^^c./:ootoom berries, — much to my
astonishment.]

Sunday, Deceniber 4ith. — ' Traverser a prairie some eight
miles wide, through which the White Mud Kiver flows,
expanded into a lake where we crossed it ; afterwards
passed through a partially wooded country, and camped after

316

TOUCHWOOD HILLS

CHAP. XX.

a five or six hours' march, during which we probably made
upwards of sixteen miles.

'Three iioiirs of the time I walked on snow-shoes,
getting on well at first, but latterly suffering much from
blistered feet, and great fatigue in the thigh muscles, though
my ankles felt no strain.

' People at home commonly imagine snow-shoes to be
like velocipedes, implements which enable the wearer to
outstrip the wind and outstay the stoutest pedestrian ; but
this is far from the truth, for though these network plat-
forms enable the wearer to traverse deep snow with com-
parative ease, and even to overtake swift animals under
favourable circumstances, they are nothing but encumbrances
in themselves, adding to the fatigue and diminishing the pace.

' The Lapland ' skidor ' are totally different things, more
like enormous skates (to judge by description), and capable
of helping the wearer to great SM'iftness ; but nothing of

SNOW-SHOE AND SKIDOK.

the kind is used in this country, — why, I cannot explain.
Perhaps the snow is more hard and icy in the north of
Europe, and thus better suited for long narrow sliders."'

* A snow-shoe is a leaf-sliaped framing of wood, filled in with a fine network
of leather thongs, and turned up in front like the prow of a boat. " The foot
is attached to the niaiu bar by straps passing round the heel, but only fixing
the toes, so that lae heel rises after each step, and the tail of the shoe is

dragged on the snow The length is from four to six feet, and

the breadth one foot and a half, or one foot and three quarters, being adapted
to the size of the wearer. The motion of walking in them is perfectly natural,

CHAP. XX.

TO FORT PELLY.

317

th of

' This was about the coldest day we have had. Though
well covered, I got slightly frost-bitten on the neck and left
ear, for the bitter north wind pierced through everything. No
exercise gave warmth, and towards evening I began to feel
unwell, but an immense camp-fire soon revived my powers.

* The horses are looking wretched ; a week of this
travelling reduces them more than months of hard work in
summer. The poor things have no food but the dry grass
they find after scraping away the snov/. This forms the
principal food of the buffaloes in winter, but their broad
snouts are better fitted than a horse's thinly covered legs
for removing masses of deep snow.'

Decemher 5th.—-' Started late, at 10 o'clock, and camped
at 2 P.M. Maclean, alias The Night, gave out, and was left
on the road. My dear old Cendre was with difficulty brought
into camp ; indeed our early halt was chiefly on his account.

for one shoe is level with the snow when the edge of the other is passing
over it . . . . Each shoe weiglis about two pounds when unclogged Avith
snow." — Franklin, — Jourmy to the Polar Sea, 1819-22, 4to, 1823, pp. 94-95.
Searching in Mr. Lloyd's works for information on the subject of the Euro-
pean snow-skates, I find that these implements vary considerably in pattern.
In partb of Scandinavia the skidor — which are narrow slips of wood, generally
turned up at the foremost ends, — are of unequal length, the skida on the
left foot ranging from 9 to 12 feet in length, while that for the right 's
about three feet shorter ; the breadth of ■' '■ ]• being between 2 and 3 inches.
In parts of Lapland and Finland, howevt .. the .skidor are of equal length
on each foot, but seldom exceed 6 or 7 in t. and are much bro.ader than
those previously mentioned. A pair may weigh from 10 to 15 pounds.
In running upon skidor the motioii resembles tiiat of ordinary skating.
If the ground be falling and the bii;)iv in good order, a mats may go at almost
any pace, but everything depends on the state of the wiow and the nature of
the country. A good runner may aci^omplish from 6 to 7 miles within the
hour, or for a short distance perhaps very much more. Men might possibly be
ound who could perform 50 miles u\ seven or eight liours, or not impossibly
] 00 miles in double that space of time. Mr. Lloyd (whose words I have been
partly quoting) proceeds to contrast the skidor witii the American snow-shoes.

I'.

bi:

■ *!'

4 'I
'I !;i

318

TOUCHWOOD HILLS

CHAP. XX.

' The road kept aiaong small poplar woods all day. The
country appears more fertile than ou the other side of White
Mud Eiver.

' Wind north-west, and not mucli of it, weatlier foggy, cold
very great. Between 8 and 9 VM. there was a perfect circle
of light round the nearly full moon, its radius about twenty
diameters of the moon, — no prismatic colours apparent.'

December Gth. — ' A most beautiful day. There was
very little wind, and that from the south, and the sun shone
brightly.

' Marched about thirteen miles through a wooded
country, full of small ssvampy lakes. Some of the horses
could hardly get on, the intense cold of the nights had so
weakened them, while tlie frost had seized on their legs, all
torn and cut by the hard crusted snow.

' Little Ned grew quite lame, and my poor Cendr^ gave
out. Duncan and 1 did all we coidd to bring him on, but

In favour of the litter, lie instances its trifling weight, ami believes it
may answer better if the snow be in a loose state. Apart from these advan-
tages, he considers that the skidor are " immeasurably superior" to the snow-
shoes ; assigning, however, no reason, except that while the former never
injure the feet or ankles, the latter cause great suffering to a person unaccu.s-
tomed to their use. This is a weak .irgument, for the " mal de racquet,"
as stated, only afl'ects a beginner : it would rather .seem to me that tln^
supposition in my journal is correct and that each implement is best in its
own sphere, — the skidor helping to rapid motion on the ice-like surface of
hard-frozen snow, the snow-shoe facilitating steady progression over snow of a
less firm consistency. A sort of snow-shoe is used by the Scandinavian
peasants as a substitute fc- .skidor, wlien the snow is deep. Tiiese, wliich are
named Skarhognr, are merely frames of wicker-work, of a roundish, or rather
oval shape, about 1.5 inches in length and 12 in breadth. During my journey
between Fort Pelly and Fort Garry (see p. 336), Kline made himself a pair of
.small implements very much of the same description, but provided with soles
of network instead of wickerwork. (See Li.nvi), — Fic/d Sports of (he North
of Europe, 8vo, 1830, vol. ii. pp. 218-224.)

■ -»#

CHAP. XX.

TO FORT PELLY.

319

iu vain ; we were just able to drive him into a sheltered
place, and then he stopped. I was grieved to the heart, for
of all the horses I have owned I liked this one best ; I felt a
real friendship for him. For four montlis he had been with
me in my journeys, — always gentle, affectionate, and spirited,
and full of amusing ways ; — and now ne was to be a prey
to the wolves and the ravens. He seemed lively and
strong when we left Touchwood Hills, and I hoped to
have taken him many a stage farther, and left him iu
some harbour of refuge, but his falling oft' was too sudden
to have been expected by human foresight — so farewell,
poor Cendr4 !

' Very melancholy I rejoined my people, and soon after-
wards we halted for dinner. Just as we were starting, after
a two hours' rest, some one thought he heard a distant neigh.
Presently it was repeated, and we recognised old Cendr(^'s
voice. The noble horse had struggled on, determined to
overtake his friends, — it was the only instance of such
courage among the many cases of given-out horses during my
jtnrney. We resolved to make a great effort to save him.
Mathesou accordingly stayed back and devoted himself to
bringing on Cendre to our niglit encampment. I am thank-
ful to say he has succeeded, and as we cannot be more than
twenty miles from Fort Felly I trust the gallaut beast will
yet be saved, aud restored to his former health and beauty
by careful keeping.

' Our guide, Josey, got frost-bitten in one foot, but was
able to go on.

' JMuch struck by a paper in an old number of Chambers's
Journal on the subject of Gratitude. In most cases of
allerl ingratitude, so says the writer, the fault is as much
with tlie giver of favours as the receiver ; for either the

lil

i' (itB

I III

lii"

S20

TOUCHWOOD HILLS

CHAl'. XX.

favour lias been unsought, is little valued, and is not a fair
tender for the article gratitude ; or else, a real benefit having
been conferred, the beneFiter expects too much in return, and
seeks to reduce the obliged man to moral slavery — as if the
proverb " one good turn deserves another," should be changed
to — " deserves a lifetime of others."

' Those seem to me equally wrong who profess surprise
at gratitade or ingratitude. People so often mean better
than they act, or act better than they mean, that all divings
into other men's hearts, either for prophecy or condemnation,
are vain and delusive. The best maxim is this — "Hope
ever. Expect never." ....

* But, indeed, prayer sliotild always be a wish
rather than a demand, — certain as we mav feel that our
desire is for that which is good. How can we tell ? We
might be praying for the immediate reforiu of some wicked
person, when God knew that such fi sudden change would
be only suj^-erficial, and that sin's frost must go deeper into
the soil of the man's heart, crackiug it and pulverising it,
before the thaw of repentance could reach to its uttermost
depths.

' We might be praying for humility when self-reliant
strength vas our need, or for purity when morbid sensitive-
ness to evil was our bane, for rigid truth when we required
lenient charity, for fortitude when we lacked the gift of
sympatliy, for resignation when action was demanded of us.

' Nay, we might even, in more general terms, pray to be
spiritually minded, wlicn something more of earthly minded-
ness than we popyessed was wanted for the service of our
neighbours.

Deceml" •■ 7th. — ' After u wearisome march of four hours
we were obliged to rani]) by the Assiniboine Iviver, some

hours
some

CHAP. XX.

TO FORT PELLY.

321

twelve miles, it is supposed, from the Fort. The horses are
in a sad state, hardly able to drag themselves along. Poor
Cendre stopped again, half-way; whether he can now be
saved is doubtful — alas !

' Black spruces mingle with the poplars till within five
miles from the river, and the soil appears to assume more
of the prairie character — but where everything is buried
under two or three feet of snow, it is difficult to judge with
certainty. Some of the spruces were beautiful specimens,
though not remarkable for size.

'Walked nearly all yesterday and to-day, — my left
ankle much strained from labouring through the deep snow.
Had a narrow escape this morning — a tall tree, against which
my fire was built, got undermined and suddenly fell, crash-
ing down within two feet of my head as I stood at the tent
door.'

Decemler 8th. — 'A little snow during night, and the
wind rose high, but being southerly it made the weather
much milder. M'Kay and Josey started early, on snow-
slioes, for the Fort ; I afterwards followed them on horseback,
and found the distance greater than had been supposed,
being sixteen miles at least.

' At the Mission-house Mr. Murray's cariole was waiting
my arrival. Glad to dismount, I placed myself in it, and
the team of dogs took me over the remaining mile of the
journey at a pace that seemed absolute flying, after our last
week's two-mile-and-a-half an hour crawl.'

: ,1,1 1'

' i

•:1 1

i ■

li!

CHAPTER XXT.

FORT PELLY.

December 9th. — ' Fort Pelly, pleasantly situated on rising
ground, is a new, square, white-washed cottage with small
dormer Avindows in the roof, and offers better accommodation
than any house I have seen since leaving Eed River. Various
out-houses for stores, etc., surround it at the back and sides,
but the Saulteaux Indians of the district are so peaceable that
no stockade has been thought necessary. Looking from the
front windows the eye ranges over a large extent of flat
country, swamp and willows first, and then an interminable
border of poplars interspersed with pines.

' In the immediate foreground stand the remains of the
old Fort, partly occupied by the servants and partly converted
into cattle-houses. Not far off flows the Assiniboine, here
an insignificant stream scarce twenty yards wide, and not
deep. In spring there is water enough for boats, but in
summer the channel is nearly dry.

'Mr. Murray has given me a very comfortable room, and
obligingly invited me to form one of his family party. We
shall have to stay here a long time, as dogs are scarce, and
Mill have to be sent f(jr to various i>lac(!S, — travelling farther
with hoi-ses is out of the question, in this deep snow.

* The weather has become really warm, the sun quite
oppressive. Not an atom of ice on beards and moustaches,
the state of whicli I find the best tliermometer.

I'lfAl'. XXI.

FORT PELLY.

323

' Eead a very curioua story from Blackwood's Magazine
called the "Haunted House.'" ["The Haunters and the
Haunted," — one of Lord Lytton's most perfect and interest-
ing works, though perliaps too melodramatic in the propheti-
cal scene towards tlie end.]

December 10 th. — ' A lovely day — too warm in fact. Mr.
Murray tells me that this has been an unprecedentedly cold
opening of winter. The mercury has constantly frozen in
his thermometer, on some days he believes the temperature
to have been 40° below zero.

' Walked out to see the horses and cattle. All my beasts
look the better for their rest. I have given Ned to Mr.
Murray, that he may be carefully tended and well used — as
will certainly be the case. There is a well-shaped bull, a
cross between Ayrshire and Shorthorn, there are also a
number of cows, some pure Ayrshires, — about seventy alto-
gether. They farm a little, growing potatoes and barley ;
turnips will also grow, but are not cultivated to any extent.'

In the afternoon I took my gun, and went out on snow-
shoes with Mr. Macdonald, a cleric in the Company's service,
of recent appointment, little more than a year having passed

since he left his home in Inverness-shire, near Mr. E 's

Highland deer-forest We had a j)leasant walk,

but saw no game.

Sunday, Decemher 11th. — There was morning service as
usual at the old Fort, conducted by the Eev. Mr. Settee — a
gentleman of Cree origin, who had been appointed to the
spiritual charge of this district by the Church Missionary
Society. I was interested in hearing of his relationship to
the well-known Newton, the poet Cowper's friend, his grand-
mother being the daughter of Newton's father, who lived
near Hudson's Bay during the last two years of his life.

,.1 '

] -5

II f

324

FORT PELLY.

CHAP. XXI.

' Mr. Settee is an agreeable man and a good miHsionai'\ ;
but liere, as in most place.s, the Indians obi^tinately lefuiw
to be Christians, though many of them are ready enough to
submit to the CL'remouy of baptism .... There
appears to be no foundation for the idea tJtat the Indians
are panting for religious instruction, md that nothing is
wanted for their genernl conversion but a larger supply of
zealitus missionaries and tlu» establishment of a few more
schools. Certain tnbes, or -sections of tribes, are no doubt
less unteachable than tlio rest, these, however, form decidedly
excpptiop.al case.s.

' The service at the old Fort was attended by all
my men, and some of the Company's servants, but I did not
obser\.j any Indians — indeed there are few of them in the
neighbourhood just now.

' In the evening we had a visit from " Clippy," an old In-
dian hanger-on about the place, who re])orted that his brother
hfid shot a moose. These iiiiimals are tolerably plentiful in
the district, but red-deer (tvcqnti) are not found in any num-
bers ai'urer than Fort Ellice. Lynxes and foxes are connnon,
wolves rare, buffalo never come within several days' march.

'A few nights ago, l^Ir. Murray heard his dog barking
inc";s:-fiutly for no apparent reason. Happening next morn-
ing:; to open a half- finished storehouse, the dog rushed
furiously in, — but came out again with still greater quick -
nes.^ • upon which his master looked into the shed, and
there beheld the cause of the disturbance, in the shape
o^' a wolverine, who after his nocturnal prowlings had
taken refuge in this convenient hiding-place. The beast
vvas slowly retreating, with hici face to the door through
^^'hich the dog had entered, but an ounce of .shot soon tamed
his courage by ending his life.

U 1%

CHAl'. XXI.

[lissionavr ;
itely refill I'j
enough to
. There
lie Tudiiins
iiothinj^ is
■ supply of
L few more
) no doubt
n decidedly

iided liy all
t 1 did not
lem in the

' an old In-
his brother
[)lentiful in
I any nuni-
re common,
ys' march.
ouf barking
next morn-
og rushed
ater quick-
shed, and
the shape
lings had
The beast
)r through
<oon tamed

CHAP. XXI.

FORT PELIiY.

325

' The wolverine — called by the French, cnrcnjou, — is aii
animal of the weasel tribe, somewhat iike a skunk in form,
but a great deal larger. Ilis body is about, the size of au
ordinary pointer's ; he has short, immensi-ly strong legs armed
with great claws, Ids snout is short and rather upturned, his
mouth furnished with powerful teeth, his tail short, black
and bushy ; his fur, chiefly of a dark-brown grey, is long and
handsome, though not of much value.

'No beast is so cunning as the wolverine — the fo.^ is a
sucking dove compared to im. He laughs traps to scorn,
taking the bait away wi'li'iut I'ettiug caught, as cleverly as
could any human beiu<^- ore so indeed than some, for
there are persons who hn, .Luaily get more trap than bail
during their lifelong tivspass in lliis world's preserves.

' Where he haunts it is useless to store meat on stages,
for, beaver-like, he cuts through great trees with his teeth,
and soon brings down any edifice of wood. His courage is
dauntless, he flees neither from man nor beast, and woe to
the dog that comes within reach of his jaws.

' Wolverines live in pairs, and it is said that when one
is killed the other invariably finds its way to the place of
slaughter; a long time may elapse, but sooner or later it
makes its appearance there for the benefit of the hunters —
like the Hindoo widow immolating herself on her husband's
corpse.' *

Dcccmher 12 fh. — •' Snowstorm all day. Old Clippy came
again, and walking straight into my room, without knocking,
made request for tea and sugar; of which a small present
soon gladdened the heart of the poor old man. He has

* Gulo Luscus. The Wolverine. Ommecthatsccs, okeecoohagew, and okee-
coohawgces—Crce Indians. Carcajou — French Canadians. Qaickehatch —
English Ik'sidents at Hudson's Bay. RlciiAUDSON, — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol.
i. p. 41.

■>

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

l^|28 12.5
Ui B^ |2.2

I.I

L25 IIIII14 III 1.6

12.0

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 145*0

(716) •73-4503

<;^

326

FORT PELLY.

CHAP. XXI.

fitUd'

i i

1 1 '

none of the sort of pride that generally belongs to the Indian
character. Mr. Murray one day reproved him for going into
private rooms without warning, telling him that everybody
should knock at the door in such cases — "Oh yes," said
Clippy, " but I am nobody, I am nothing, I am such a very
poor creature.' "

December ISth. — ' Colder day — a few degrees below zero.
Went through the stores, — not many furs just now. This
is the great battle-field between the Company and the free
traders, and the Indians consequently get many presents to
keep them to their allegiance. One chief, for example,
lately got articles to the value of fifty skins (upwards of £6
in value) and the inferior men receive large presents also.
The Company has regular tariff-prices in each district,
which are never departed from, and any Indian to whom
particular favour is meant receives a suitable present, but
neither gets more for his furs, nor pays less for his supplies,
than the tariff directs.

' Free competition would do the Indians more harm than
good, for any advantage they might gain from the under-
selling of rival traders could only last a few years, and would
be much outweighed by the evils following the unchecked
distribution of immense quantities of spirits. A powerful
Company, moreover, has the means of supplying goods to a
district, far cheaper and more regularly than can be done by
private hands, — and there is a strong guarantee for their
moderation, in those natural promptings of self-interest
which keep sagacious men from killing the goose ihat lays
the golden eggs.

* In the Missouri country, some years ago, when several
rival companies existed, the selling price of goods, as com-
pared with their cost price, seems to have been about six

CHAP. XXI.

FORT PELLY.

327

times greater than that fixed by the Hudson's Bay Company's
general tariff, which reserves a very narrow margin of profit,
so narrow indeed that on certain articles there is a loss.

' It is a mistake to suppose that spirits are supplied to
the Indians in large quantity from the Company's stores.
In the northern districts spirits are not allowed to enter the
country; and in no case are they a medium of traffic for
furs, though in the southern districts rum is exchanged for
provisions, which cannot be got on other terms.

* It is only when the Indian is in communication with
free traders that he becomes a regular drunkard, those who
deal only with the Company confining themselves (or rather,
being confined) to two grand " r(5gales " in course of the year,
the first when they receive their supplies before the hunting
season, the second when they return with the products of
the chase. Morally this custom must be injurious to them,
physically it is harmless, nay beneficial, for the sickness
following their intemperance relieves them from the bile
caused by their excessive consumption of fat meat when
buffalo are plentiful.

' Too strong a distinction cannot be drawn between the
relations of the Indians with the Company in the northern
and southern districts : — in the former, the Company is all-
powerful, and rules its submissive subjects with a mild and
equitable sway ; in the latter, free traders of every sort press
hard upon it, and flood the country with bad whisky, while
the independent Indians, roaming the plains in great bands,
are too strong to be controlled by the handfuls of men at
the Forts, whom, so far from obeying, they often put in fear of
their lives.'

Decemher IMli. — 'The Indian who was sent for old
Cendr(5 brought him in this morning, and I had the pleasure

I'il

328

FORT PELLY.

CHAP. XXI.

f !^

of seeing my favourite again : he looks wretchedly thin, but
care may restore him. The men despatched to Fort EUice
for dogs have also returned, — having lost their way ; I shall
not be able to start for more than a week.

' Walked a few miles with Mr. Murray, and called on
Mr. Settee. Heard an anecdote about a mulatto, the offspring
of a Negro and an Indian woman, who when the last eclipse
took place, exclaimed — " This is my birthday. That is why
I am so dark, — there was no sun when I was born."

' Also anotlier about an Indian (whose name was told me),
who being urged by the missionaries to become a Christian,
that he might go to lieaven when he died, answered — that
he did not wish to become a Christian ; and that if he were
one, he would rather go to hell, because there, though in
pain, he could walk about, whereas in heaven he must sit
still and sing psalms all day. I am assured that this story
is true, and that the Indian spoke in sober earnest, and not
in mockery. We are apt to undervalue the acuteness of

savages.

December 15tJi. — 'Drove a short distance in a horse
cariole, but for want of a proper track it swung about like
a ship in a storm, and at last upset, roUiug Mr. Murray and
myself in the snow,

' There is a burying-ground near the Fort, used by Indians
as well as the Company's people. Over one of the newest
graves is fixed a pole, from which are suspended several
buttons, a tobacco-bag of bark and beads, a piece of tobacco,
and a human hand dried and stUiT ' This is the grave of
an Indian's wife. She was young, isome, and apparently
healthy, but a concealed disease affected her heart, and one
day she fell down in a faint and died. Her husband was
drunk at the time, and on coming to himself his grief was

CHAP. XXI.

FORT PELLY.

329

terrible. This it might be thought would have cured him
of his evil habit, but, on the contrary, as soon as the first
paroxysm of grief was over he came and begged for rum,
— " because his heart was heavy and he wanted to make it
light."

' There was an Indian in the north country who, on meet-
ing with a similar loss, went away into the mountains and
lived there for two years without seeing a human being ; he
then returned, with such an enormous number of marten
skins that he was unable to take goods for even half of them,
and the rest remained to his credit.

' The Indians are not so healthy a race as is sometimes
imagined, stomach and chest complaints frequently occurring,
and the women being subject to various female ailments that
are common in Europe. As physicians their own " medicine-
men " appear to be useless. When an Indian is ill he gener-
ally applies at the nearest Fort, where he obtains good
medicine, and medical advice if the Company's officer-
in-charge has studied the subject, as he often has. Food
and shelter t(»o are sometimes given him until health is
restored.

' In suigical cases, especially in the cure of gunshot
wounds, the native doctors are very successful. I was told
of two cases well known to the narrator, in one of which an
Indian had been shot through the back and the centre of the
stomach ; in the other, a European had had his arm shattered
by the accidental discharge of a gun loaded with buckshot.
On both occasions cures were effected by the application
of certain herbs known only to the medicine-men, — who are
a sort of masonic brotherhood, consisting of women as well
as men, and possessed of secrets which are guarded with the
most scrupulous care.'

sSi

i^'

iv.

Ill

'^'1

330

FORT PELLY.

ciur. XXI.

fl!'

i III tl |i

Mi ' I

December 16 th. — ' Heard from Mr. Murray the following
story, relating to the district he had lived in for many years
of his life. There were two trappers who set out on a
trapping expedition near the Missouri River, one an Ameri-
can, the other a German, and considered the best rifle-shot
in the country. Having left their horses and goods concealed
in a hollow, they were one night camping in a roughly made
log hut, when they were unluckily discovered by a war-party
of Sioux, who rushed upon them in great force, attempting
a surprise. The trappers however were ready, and each
killed an Indian at the first shot, which caused the rest to
retreat under cover.

' Firing was kept up for some time, till at last the Sioux,
having lost six men, drew off a short distance and took
shelter on the farther side of a hill.

' Tlie unfortunate trappers now found that their bullets
were expended, and believing all hope gone resolved to
kill themselves, in order to escape the tortures they knew the
Sioux would inflict on them after the loss 'of so many of
their braves. Accordingly, they set fire to the log hut, with
the intention of burning themselves to death, but the Indians
at once guessed what was happening, returned to the place,
and despatched their victims.

' It was the Sioux themselves who related the story,
adding that a hasty council had already been held behind the
hill and a decision taken to ride off, when the smoke and
flames rising from the liut revealed the true state of things
to their quick perceptions.

' Wliile returning home, this war-party met two unarmed
men belonging to an American Fort, and instantly killed
and scalped them, as a sort of makeweight for their own
slain warriors ; their conduct, however, was condemned by

CHAr. XXI.

FORT PELLY.

331

the Sioux chiefs themselves, who promised the Americans
that these murderers should be put to death. Such severe
measures were promised (whether actually carried out was
not known), because the offenders had contravenca a general
rule of the tribe — that Europeans living in their country
or journeying to it should be well treated, and those only
attacked who were found in an enemy's territory or approach-
ing to its borders.'

Sunday, Decemher ld>t1i. — 'Service at the old Fort. . . .
In the afternoon read part of the public controversy, on
the Eoman Catholic and Protestant question, between Mr.

F and Dr. C . It is painful to observe the scorn

and hatred that pervade the whole of this discussion. How
can men devote so much time to the study of Scripture,
and fail to discover that such diabolical tempers are far
more condemned by Christ, than any deviation in matters
of opinion ! The unbelieving Sadducees were tenderly
handled, while those punctilious believers, the whited-
sepulchre Pharisees, were overwhelmed with condemnation.

' When will just views of religion prevail in the world,
and the minds of thinking men be delivered from the
temptations to sheer infidelity which the puerile narrow-
ness of most Christian churches and churchmen so continually
provokes and fosters?'

Decemher Idth. — 'At 8 P.M. yesterday the thermometer
stood at 2 1° below zero, and this morning it was yet 1 1°
lower, but the sun came out and made the climate seem
almost warm. Unless wind is blowing, or circumstances
oblige one to sit still or ride slowly in the open air, the
weather feels hardly colder than on an English frosty day.

' Went with all the men to hunt beaver in the Assini-
boine : we were unsuccessful, the animals having left the

11:

'A
U

I-

:•;.

;;

■

332

FORT PELLY.

CHAP. XXI.

. .*

ii<

rt! i

s i;;

place at which they were last seen. We had beaver meat
at dinner yesterday. It seemed to me rather brown and
strong, something like wild goose, — inferior to the beaver we
got from the Iroquois at the River M'Leod.'

December 20th. — 'A mild morning: 5° degrees below
zero, about 1 1 a.m. Heard for the first time that an expedi-
tion is on foot for marking the boundary between British
America and the United States. The new-fashioned custom
Qf running boundary lines on parallels of latitude or longitude
is very unsatisfactory ; it seems far better to put rivers, lakes,
and mountains, to their natural use of dividing territories, so
tl at a real instead of a fictitious boundary is obtained.

' Ere another century has passed, the Columbia and South
Saskatchewan rivers and Winipeg Lake may possibly enough
take the place of the 48 th parallel as the national frontier ;
the Americans possessing Red River and that central land
whose direct communications run through the States, while
Britain possesses two powerful colonies on the eastern and
western oceans, and retains that vast fur-bearing territory
of the north, which, being unfit for settlement, will require
no greater facilities of access than at present belong to it
in its water communication with Hudson's Bay.

' Along the North Saskatchewan might be formed a chain
of settlements sufficiently strong to protect the frontier,
maintain communication between Columbia and Canada, and
provide means for carrying on such government as the thinly
populated northern districts might require. If a Pacific
railway were deemed necessary, this appears to me to be
the best — perhaps the only feasible — line, as one more
southern must pass through hundreds of miles of barren
prairie, incapable of growing crops or timber, and scarcely
suitable even for grazing purposes.'

CHAP. XXI.

ver meat
own and
eaver we

Bs below
a expedi-
Q British
d custom
longitude
318, lakes,
itories, so
led.

nd South
y enough

frontier ;
tral land
:es, while
tern and

territory
1 require
ong to it

CHAP. XXI.

FORT PELLY.

333

(' Since writing the above I have seen a map by Mr.
Dawson, who sui-veyed part of the country in the interests
of Canada, and I find it to be his opinion, also, that Lake
Winipeg and the North Saskatchewan are the true lines for
Pacific communication, the route he lays down being identical
with that which suggested itself to me.') [Journal-note
added soon afterwards at Fort Garry. See Hind, — Can.
Ex. Exfped., vol. ii. p. 222, et seq^

December 2dd. — 'Shot a rabbit with my rifle. These
animals are more like small hares than rabbits ; in summer
they are brownish grey, in winter white, with brown ears.' '^^

December 2-^th. — ' Saw my horses for the last time.*

Sunday, December 25th, Christmas Day. — 'Communion
service at the old Fort. Two Indians were present, and Mr.
Settee addressed them in their own language when giving
them the bread and wine.'

* See p. 265.

i
ii

!i '

d a chain
frontier,
lada, and
le thinly
Pacific
me to be
ne more
if barren
scarcely

':^

ififf

CHAPTER XXII.

FORT PELLY TO FORT GARRY.

December 21th. — We had at last collected a sufficient
number of dogs to draw my own cariole"*' and three sleds
laden with goods and provisions, but these being too few
for the transport of all our property, I settled that M'Kay and
Short should wait at Fort Pelly till the arrival of more dogs
enabled them to bring on the remaining baggage. Kline, in
M'Kay's absence, was to take the place of the latter as guide to
tlie party, which now consisted of my old hands — M'Beath,
Matheson, Duncan, and Toma, with the addition of two or
three men belonging to the Fort and its neighbourhood.
It was late in the afternoon when we left Fort Pelly, intend-
ing no longer distance than would ensure us an early start
next morning, but we marched so well as to make out eight
miles before halting to encamp at the accustomed hour.

December 28<7i. — Nothing remarkable took place, except
an unlucky accident to M'Beath, who injured his foot by
dropping on it an unopened bag of pemmican, weighing
90 lb., and as hard as a block of stone: as he seemed half

* "A cariole is constnicted of a very tliiii board, 10 feet long and 12 or 14
inches broad, turned up at one end in the form of half a circle, like tho bend
of an Ojibway canoe. To this board a high cradle like the body of a small
carriage [more like a coffin or a slipper-bath, in my opinion] is attached, atout
18 inches from the end of the boanl or floor. The framework is covered with
bufl'alo-skin parchment, and painted or decorated according to taste." Hind,
— Can. Ex. Exped., vol. ii. p. 84.

i;lIAP. XXII.

FORT PELLY TO FORT GARUr.

335

crippled I put him into my cariole, and walked all the rest
of our seventeen-mile march.

December 29tJi. — Awakened between 3 and 4 o'clock by
the jingling of bells, and other sounds of an arriving traveller.
It proved to be Mr. M'Beath, an oflicer in the Company's
service, proceeding on his journey from Duck Bay to one of
the western Forts,

[He was uncle to my man Morrison M'Beath — they had
not met for years. Till recently Mr. M'Beath had been in
charge of a very remote post near the Mackenzie River,
having stayed (if I rightly remember) fifteen years in that
desolate locality. He told me that in mid-winter, when the
days are at their shortest, the sun was only visible there for
a quarter of an hour, — rising suddenly above the horizon,
traversing a short, low arc, then sinking into utter night.]
We breakfasted together, and at parting Mr. M'Beath
obligingly consented to lend us one of his dogs. He also lent
me a pair of very neat light snow-shoes. I at once put
them on, and walked twelve miles without a halt : but this
was severe work, and I was glad to get into the cariole after
dinner, M'Beath's foot being now nearly well.

Finding the other snow-shoes too heavy, Kline made
himself a smaller pair from bent willow
wands, crossed with slips of leather ; they
were oval in shape and perfectly flat, and
seemed to be both light and strong. Our
march to-day was about twenty-two miles.

December SOth. — 'Up by 1.15 a.m.,
and marched in two hours afterwards.'
[Contrary to the usual custom I always breakfasted before
setting out in the morning, instead of waiting for that meal
till part of the march had been accomplished, or postponing
it till dinner-time at noon.

KLINES SNOW-SHOES.

'iffi'-

*.i

336

FORT PELLY

CHAP. XXII.

Im ;^- '■

This plan added much to the ct)inf()rt of travelUnj», and
seldom led to seriou.s delay, thouj^h on the present occasion
it rather ap])ears to have done so.]

' Walked for some time during the afternoon, but found
my left heel, — sprained in the deep snow near Touchwood
Hills, — growing very painful. The r..ad ran mostly through
poplar-brush, but latterly through willows and swamps.
Cold, clear day. Distance about 25 miles.'

[It got excessively cold towards evening, in proof of
which I recollect one singular circumstance : — I was reading
at my tent door, seated on a camp stool as close as possible
to an enormous fire of logs, a good yard high at least.
While so close to this blazing furnace that my cloth leggings
were scorching, as usual, into holes, — though some regard for
their safety regulated one's distance from the fire more than
anything else, — the wind struck so cold on the side of my
face, that tears kept dropping from eyes and nose upon
the book before me, and each drop instantaneously froze
where it fell. I fancy that the work of these small icicles
may still be traced in certain marks and indentations on
the pages of " Othello," the play I was reading that night.*]

December 31st. — We marched at 4.30 a.m., and just
before sunrise crossed Swan Lake, where it has a width of
about twelve miles. The ice was rough, and jolted the
cariole violently : the cold wa? terrible. In hopes of warming
myself I got out to walk, — ia a mla^ute or two I was
stopped by Taylor, the driver ^f my o^vn team, who began
rubbing my nose, which he declrir* d v.as frost-bitten.

This was a very bleak and miserable part of the journey,
but afterwards our track led us into n ore genial regions,
where woods of pine sparingly mingled with small larches
formed a certain shelter, and though we traversed several

* See Appendix.

^ i ;

CHAP. xxn.

UUAl>. XXII,

TO FORT OARUY.

337

other lukea, tliey were too narrow to be much afructed by the
keen north-easterly wind.

[How well do I remember tlie encampment in which wo
saw the old year buried and the new year born I Tall pino
trees encompassed us with their ruj^god .stems, and canopied
the whole ground, save the small space that held us, with
their vast spreading branches, all thickly covered with
masses of the softf^st, purest snow. Our camp-fire, once
more built up with fragrant pine instead of the dull poplar
logs, blazed gloriously and sparkled, and threw out a delicious
odour, while its light illumined the stately trees around,
and endowed with pleasant looks of home and sheltering
warmth those solemn, snow-laden, mysterious forest-forms
that hemmed us in so closely and so still.

Even thus, the glow of hope and the light of contentment
irradiated the melancholy snow-thoughts of the departing
year, and turned them into brightness as a welcome for the
year to come.]

1860. Sunday, January \st, — 'Our road was very
rough at starting, through young pine woods full of " em-
barras" which jolted the cariole severely, and repeatedly
upset it. In the afternoon we came to Lake Winnepagos.
The ice was smooth and we pushed along at a rapid pace.

'My team consists of three middle-sized Indian dogs,
sharp-nosed, bushy-haired and wolfish. Chocolat, the leader,
is dark red ; Casse-toute, grey, shaded with black ; and Fox,
reddish fawn-colour. The driver is a particularly smart and
active man ; he can run for miles behind the cariole while
the dogs are galloping, encouraging them all the time with
incessant volleys of abuse in a mixture of English, French,
and Indian.

' (Vociferously) Fox ! Fox ! ah, crapaud Fox ! (Scream-

■I

' i

338

FORT PELLY

CHAP. XXII.

'11 f ^

l-IU^t.

ingly) Faux ! sacre d^mon ! (Warningly) Fox, ye ould sinner,
pren' garde : crapaud that ye aire. (Surprised) Ch6colat !
(Very distinctly and syllabically) Ch6c-6-lat, — michastim !"^''
— Yeu-oli ! yeu-oh ! [to the right] : — cha ! cha ! [to the left].
(Parenthetically) Ah, Chocolat, you weell catch it presently.
(Indignantly and suddenly) Casse-toute : ah, sal-au-prix !
(Shriekingly) Casse-toute ! ! (Contemptuously) mauvais chien !
(Despairingly — as if calling to a dog in the sky) Fox ! Fox !
Faux ! Then a burst of unintelligible Indian rough words,
followed by a hasty, furious shout to the whole team — Fox !
Casse-toute! Chocolat! crd demons! — under cover of
which he rushes past the cariole, shaking his whip, while
the wretched dogs dart from side to side in agonies of fear,
whining, squealing, and shrieking, like a drove of dis-
tracted pigs.

' The next team is drawn by a red-coloured Indian leader,
in front of two large noble-looking Canadian dogs, white with
yellow and black marks, short-haired but rough, resembling
some of the St. Bernard mastiffs. With this team the great
trouble is to get the first start made. The driver is a man
of more blows than words, and at each departure one hears
a harsh voice cry out — " Survellon, t marche ! Passe-partout,
marche ! " — immediately answered by deep-toned yells from
the cowering, crouching hounds ; then comes a fearful crack-
ing and thumping, and the poor beasts at last set off" M'ith
their heavy load, howling as if their hearts would break.

'The cruelty with which, dogs are treated here cannot be
excused. Doubtless they are often obstinate and provoking,
and require severe floggings, — especially from a new driver,

* Michastiin, Michastemuc — bad dog, bad dogs : the nearest approach to
swearing, I am toW, that the Indian language admits of. (Journal-note.)

i So the name was prononnced. Wits Survcillanl the word, or was it
C'erf-volaut, — or t'erf-vola, as in Captain IJutler's recently published work 'I

OHAl'. XXII.

lid sinner,
Ch6colat !
jhastim !^''
the left],
presently,
l-au-prix !
ais chien !
ox ! Fox !
gh words,
m — Fox !
cover of
liip, while
is of fear,
} of dis-

ian leader,

^hite with

jsembling

the great

is a man

)ue hears

-partoiit,

^ells from

ul erack-

t off with

)reak.

jannot be

rovoking,

!W driver,

ipproac'h to
il-nolc.)

. or was it

I work l

/■

CHAP. XXII.

TO FORT GARRY.

339

till he has brought his team into subjection, — but when one
sees poor helpless animals, who are undergoing ^^xtreme
labour in the trains, not merely beaten on the body with
heavy lashes but systematically flogged on the head till their
ears drip blood ; and not merely this, but beaten with whip-
handles till their jaws and noses are cut open with deep
wounds ; and not merely this, but cudgelled with clubs,
and knelt upon and stamped upon till their howls turn to
low groans of agony — this I say is enough to call down
vengeance on the land.

* Worse cruelties even than these I have heard of, — I
record what I have seen; and should blush to record it
if I had not done my best to stop such hellish practices.

' The strange thing is, that men who are full of kindness
and humanity towards one another and towards the rest of
creation, should be as bad as the greatest ruffians in their
treatment of the poor dogs — those most useful slaves who
will work day and night, almost without a rest, for weeks
together. But for them, there would be no means of travel-
ling during the many months of snow, which no thaw removes
till melted by the strengthened sun in April.'

[There is no after-colouring in these paragraphs, which are
copied all but word for word from my journal. Yet, on looking
back, my remarks seem to me too sweeping and unqualified."^'
The driver of the Canadian team treated his dogs with
fearful brutality, but I cannot believe that the other men
went nearly to such lengths as he did. My own cariole driver,
an excellent hand, could not have done the worst things

* Since this was written, I have found in Captuin lUitlcr's work, — The
Great Lone Zrtvwi,- -details of atrocities quite as great committed on wretched
sleigh-dogs hy their drivers, — ^^just ten years sulisequently to the date of my
own experiences.

HI'

jfc..

|l;|f

.H , 1

ffff

340

FORT PELLY

CHAP. XXII.

referred to — I should have stopped him. As far as I
remember he was a good-natured fellow, and knew how to
make words do duty for blows.

Of the remaining teams, — one was driven by a Eed Eiver
man, who being new to the work began too leniently, and
had to make up for it with a harshness very foreign to his
nature. I remember nothing as to the driver of a team
borrowed at Duck Bay, nor about the driver of the other
Fort Pelly team. If the latter was Kline, my subsequent
acquaintance with his driving convinces me that he was far
from cruel to his dogs, reasonable allowance being made.

I probably rather generalised, to avoid pointing too
plainly at an individual case, — but no one ought to bear
another's blame, and I should indeed be sorry to subject my
excellent Fort Garry men to the risk of unjust reproach.
All said, it remains that the dogs are treated very brutally,
and that even the kindest men are needlessly cruel. Not
one of the drivers but made a practice of striking his dogs
on the head, till I interfered, — and sometimes after that.

I happened to hear what passed when Kline gave my
message to the drivers, forbidding further cruelty. They
could hardly take in the idea. " Not to beat our dogs ? " — they
asked in tones of astonishment. "Beat them — yes," said
Kline, " you may do that, but you are not to Immmer them
about the head."]

' At 3 P.M. we reached Duck Bay, on Lake Winnepagos,
where the Company have just established a small post. The
house has been hurriedly built of logs daubed with clay, and
consists of two rooms, or rather of one room divided into two
by a rude partition of boards with wide openings between
their unplaned joints ; but, in spite of the roughness of the
plan, it is warm, — as all buildings of the kind seem to be,

li:

CHAP. XXII.

far as I
w how to

^ed Eiver
Qtly, and
;n to his
: a team
:he other
ibsequent
i was far
nade.
iting too
) to bear
ibject my
reproach,
brutally,
el. Not
his dogs
that.

gave my
r. They
"—they
es," said
ncr them

tnepagos,
3t. The
3lay, and
into two
between
s of the
m to be,

CHAP. XXII.

TO FORT GARRY.

341

contrastinp- vourably "with the cottages of Scotch or English
labourers. .;,he clay chimneys, moreover, never smoke, and
have a famous draught, perhaps owing to a bend near the
top, with which they are generally made.'

January 2d. — ' We marched about noon, and crossed over
to the eastern side of the lake. There was a high north
wind, which filled the air with clouds of fine powdery snow
drifting before the blast, and we were glad to camp about
four o'clock in a sheltered place among some poplars.
Having opened a hole in the ice with our axes, we found it
to be three feet thick.' [When the last layer of ice was
penetrated, though only by a trifling cut, the water rushed
into our funnel-shaped excavation, and instantly filled it to
the brim.]

January 3d. — ' Camped about four o'clock on the neck
of land between Winnepagos and Manitobah lakes. The
wind was very high in the morning, but went down towards
sunset, and our camp was unusually comfortable.

' The shores of Winnepagos are flat, and densely wooded
with small poplars of the common kind. They are much
indented with bays, which we traversed in a straight course,
passing over the low swampy promontories in the same
manner.'

January 4th. — ' Marched at five A.M., and crossed the
neck of land, which seems to be about four miles wide, and
rises near the centre into hilly ground covered with rather
large elm trees.

'There appear to be inlets of swamp from both lakes,
which might perhaps be connected and formed into a canal
if much traffic began to pass this way, — as before very long
is likely enough to happen. Darkness, however, and want
of time, prevented any close examination of the place.

h^-M

342

FORT PELLY

CHAP. XXII.

|i k

n ',

' Boats at present pass between the two lakes by a very
circuitous route, going along the Water Hen Eiver, a stream
connected with the south-east corner of Winnepagos and the
north-east corner of Manitobah, by branches, each of which
extends nearly due north, for a number of miles, till it
reaches a small lake where they both terminate.

' On the neck of land a Saulteaux Indian was put to
death last year under singular circumstances. Being affected
with some sort of madness he spoke to no one, and appa-
rently ate nothing for a month. His tribe took the idea that
he was a cannibal, and after wounding him severely buried
him before life was extinct. Many hours afterwards the
unhappy wretch was heard moving in his grave, so they dug
him up and burned him to ashes.

' A few years ago a Eoman Catholic priest was killed
near this place by the same tribe. Persuaded by his ex-
hortations during a previous visit, the Indians had allowed
him to baptize all their children. An epidemic broke out
soon afterwards, destroying most of these infants, and the
superstitious savages attributed their loss to the mystic rites
of the Church. Ignorant of what had happened, the priest
after a while returned to his flock in the wilderness, but,
instead of welcomes, these lost sheep received their shepherd
with blows, and added him to the company of martyrs.

* We made a long march to-day, camping towards dusk
near the mouth of the Crane River.

' The ice of Manitobah lake is smoother than that of
Winnepagos, which, I am told, is always the case, though
there is no apparent reason for it, the shores of both being
similar— low, woody, and indented with bays.

' Lake travelling, though rapid, is exceedingly disagreeable.
High winds are perpetually sweeping over the immense plain

CIIAI'. XXII.

TO FORT GARRY.

343

of their frozen surface, intensifying even moderate cold to
a painful degree ; the ice is uneveo, crusted with snow of
varying thickness, and drifted into hillocks and ridges which
are constantly upsetting the cariole, — a trifling matter on
shore, but extremely unpleasant here, where the hardness of
the ice nearly breaks one's bones.

* This same hardness doubles the fatigue of cariole
journeying, which may then be likened to sitting on a thin
plank, dragged quickly over bad granite causeway. Often
were Tom Hood's lines in my mind —

** Over the stones rattle his bones,
He's only a pauper that nobody owns."

' Walking or running on a frozen lake has also peculiar
disadvantages. Where the snow lies deeply the crust
gives way at each step, where it is shallow or drifted away
the hardness of the ice injures even the practised voyageurs,
causing swellings of the ankles and soles of the feet, and
enlargement of the lower back-sinews of the legs.

' There is another annoyance in winter travelling. From
what cause I know not, very slight exercise occasions pro-
fuse perspiration, which in the most momentary halt gets
cold upon the skin ; indeed, in high wind, the exposed side
will be cold and clammy, while the rest of the body is
meltiug with heat ; — no harm, however, follows these sudden
changes, which in a less healthy country would serve to kill
a rhinoceros.

'At dinner-time we met a man named Le Rond, one of the
free traders who press the Company so hard in this quarter.
He was travelling alone, with a lightly laden dog-sled, con-
taining articles of barter and such furs as he had been able
to secure. During summer he went witli Sir Francis Sykes

it': •

ti:

^ ^i

k ■

! i

t-5 ;

h :':^

■■_ ill

344

FORT PELLY

CHAP. XXII.

and his party to the Turtle Mountain, where they seem to
have had good sport, killing buffalo, all sorts of deer, and
two brown bears.'

January 5th. — * A severe day's journey. Getting up at
2 A.M. and breakfasting, we were off by 4, and, continuing
on the western side of the lake, traversed a wide bay
in face of a very high, intensely cold wind. So great was
the drift that it obscured the little light afforded by moon
and stars through a cloudy atmosphere, and I became much
afraid that some of the party would get lost, especially
those who had walked forward an hour before the sledges
started. It grieved me that the men should be exposed
to such a storm while I had shelter in the cariole ; but I
could do nothing to help them, so putting other cares aside
I strove to make myself comfortable.

' Vain task ! Though I buried myself head and all in
two robes and a blanket, the wind found its way through
everything, and I suspect that the master, sitting stiU in his
wraps, suffered more from cold than his men who were
running against the bitter hurricane, and suffered besides
under tlie depressing sense of his idle helplessness, while
they felt the cheering influences of hardy toil.

' I hate cariole travelling. It is humiliating to be
dragged about in a portable bed, like some sick woman,
while the active voyageurs are maintaining their steady
run for hours, — for days, — for weeks, I daresay, if you
required it — for fatigue seems with them an unknown
word.

' Nevertheless, wliat must be must, and as, from various
causes, I found myself unable to run for more than a few
hours at a time, I was obliged to submit to the luxurious
degradation that my very soul abhorred. How different

CHAP. XXII.

re they seem to
rts of deer, and

Getting up at
and, continuing
ed a wide bay-
So great was
forded by moon
I became much
lost, especially
•ore the sledges
lid be exposed
I cariole; but I
ther cares aside

lead and all in
ts way through
ting still in his
nen who were
uffered besides
(lessness, while

liliating to be
5 sick woman,

their steady
aresay, if you

an unknown

;, from various

)re than a few

the luxurious

How different

CHAP. XXII.

TO FORT GARRY.

345

from the days, when on my good horse's back I rode rifle
in hand, free and confident, equal to any man, and ready
for anything !

* We reached Manitobah Fort about six o'clock, and
were hospitably received by Mr. Mackenzie, the officer in
charge. This post is built on the western shore of the
lake, and consists of a small dwelling-house and some
scattered cottages. The lake is very narrow here, so con-
tracted, indeed, that its upper and lower divisions are some-
times, but improperly, treated as separate, and called by
different names.

' The word Manitobah — pronounced Manito-bah, with a
strong accent on the last syllable — signifies "Spirit" or
" Demon " Lake, a name said to originate in the existence
of a small extent of never-frozen water, which is supposed
to be kept open by some supernatural being. Winnepagos (as
I heard it pronounced, it is spelt in many ways) means, I am
told, the same as Winnepeg (the name of the far larger lake
into which the Eed River flows), the word in both cases
signifying muddy water.

' Winnepagos and Manitobah are similar in size, their
length being about 130 miles, and their general breadth
about 30. When on either of these lakes, except in a single
place towards the southern extremity of the latter, both
the shores are visible at a time, even if you are travelling
close to the side.

' The water of Manitobah is clear, that of Winnepagos
muddy, and in some parts brackish. Considerable quantities
of salt are manufactured at these places, and the saline
influence is so great there that the water sometimes hardly
freezes, and travellers are accustomed to make a long round
to avoid risking a sudden plunge through the ice.'

'.-'1
1 1|

346

FORT PELLY

CHAP. XXII.

&- ''tJS

?»'l

■.;

i ;i

January 6th. — 'Left the Fort at 10 a.m., after exchang-
ing the Duck Bay train for another. It was a pleasant day ;
we crossed over to the other side of the lake, and marched
without any halt till near 10 o'clock at night, when we
arrived at the house of Mr. James Monkman, an English
half-breed, who has a small farm, and a fishery which pro-
duces the finest white-fish of the district.

'The house is small, and contains only two rooms, one
of which we expected to find empty, but unluckily it had
been lately let, and was full of women and children. Mr.
Monkman, however, insisted on receiving us all, and some-
how or other the whole party found accoromodation.

* The night was mild, but our kind host, supposing us to
be chilly, heaped piles of wood on the fire, and in a few
minutes the heat became suffocating. The cottage, built of
massive logs plastered with mud, and lighted by firmly
fixed parchment windows, admitted no communication with
the outer air, the small low-ceilinged room was occupied by
four men, two women, several boys, and about half-a-dozen
children of different ages — I found myself gasping for
breath.

'We sat down to supper ; my host and I in equal suffering,
but neither complaining, for each supposed the heat pleasant
to the other, and so we began to drink hot tea. Ere long
great drops of perspiration streaming from our brows drove
us to our pocket handkerchiefs and revealed the true state
of the case : — simultaneously we rose and opened the door
— oh ! what a relief.'

Mr. Monkman was much interested in hearing an account
of our wanderings, and in return gave me a good deal of
European information gathered from newspapers I had not
seen ; so — apart from the short purgatory of fire — we passed

h '-i

:iiAP. xxu.

exchang-
3ant day ;
marched
^vhen we
English
lich pro-

oms, one
y it had
an. Mr.
ad some-

ing us to
n a few
built of
y firmly
ion with
npied by
-a-dozen
)ing for

luffering,
pleasant
Ere long
vs drove
le state
;he door

account

deal of

had not

3 passed

■jM

UP. XXII.

TO FORT GARRY.

847

a very agreeable evening, succeeded by a good night's rest,
notwithstanding the crowded state of the room.

January 7th. — 'Off about 9 o'clock. The track (now
along the eastern shore) runs for some distance on the ice,
passes Oak Point, and finally leaves the lake at the south-
east corner, a position occupied by a Eoman Catholic mission-
house and chapel.

'Wasting no time there, I went on to a wood two
miles farther on the way and halted for dinner ; when, much
to my surprise and displeasure, I discovered that some of the
men had chosen to stop at the mission to rest and smoke in
the priest's house, and it cost both time and trouble to bring
them away from their comfortable quarters.' [The offenders
were men hired for the job at one or other of the Forts ;
undisciplined fellows, careless about pleasing, though till then
there had been no particular fault to find with them. I had
only one day more of their services.]

' After the whole were come up, I found that the less
experienced travellers were too tired or footsore to go on to
White Horse Plains that night, so leaving them to camp
where they were, I set out at 6 p.m. with the cariole, and
one sled, driven respectively by Taylor and Kline.

' We got to the settlement on the " Eidge " between 9 and
10, stopped a few minutes at a French half-breed's house,
and then proceeded. The proper track had not been opened,
so we were compelled to go many miles round.

'The distance seemed interminable. Hours followed
hours, the dogs got much fatigued, and I began to feel very
stiff and sore from lying so long in a jolting box, where one
has hardly room to move hand or foot ; but still my men
pushed on at a steady pace, and at last, at a quarter past 3

348

FORT FELLY

CHAP. XXII.

^;li

in the morning, we entered the Fort, — where tea and other
hot liquids refreshed us after our sixteen hours' journey.'
[Sixteen hours of actual work I suppose, for we were eighteen
liours on the way between Monkman's and White Horse
I'lains. Our usual dinner halt was two hours.]

Sunday, January 8th. — ' Found my men all fresh and
ready. The hardy Kline had not even troubled to go to
bed, preferring to amuse himself in visiting his friends.

' Shortly after starting we passed the Eoman Catholic
church, just as the congregation was coming out. There
seemed to be about two hundred people, mostly men, and
more or less of French-Canadian blood. They have one
almost invariable type of dress, which, though handsome in
itself, looks rather sombre in a crowd, — capots of dark blue,
leggings of the same, caps either of the same or of some
dark fur. The only relief to this monotony is given by a
scarlet, crimson, or variegated scarf round the waist, and red
stripes embroidered with various coloured ribbons down the
outside of the leggings. The female costume is generally dark
also, and not remarkable, though with much picturesqueuess
about the head-dress, which is sometimes a dark shawl or
blanket worn as a hood, sometimes a crimson or yellow silk
handkerchief, which forms a rich contrast to the glossy black
hair it partly conceals.

* The Fort of White House Plains is situated near the
Assiniboine, and the settlement extends itself along the
banks of that river. For twenty miles, almost without a
break, small firms run outwards from the river-side into the
imcultivated but grass-clad prairies. The soil seems rich, a
belt of large, fine elm-trees borders the course of the stream,
and young poplars grow in masses here and there; the

r "t

CHAP. XXII.

and other

journey.'

eighteen

ito Horse

fresli and
to go to
mds.

Catholic
b. There
men, and
have one
dsome in
[ark blue,
of some
ven by a
, and red
Jown the
ally dark
isqueness
shawl or
How silk
isy black

oear the
ong the
itliout a
into the
s rich, a
stream,
ire; the

CHAI*. XXII.

TO FORT GARRY.

349

ground undulates considerably in many parts, and altogether
this settlement looks warmer and more home-like than that
on the Red River near Fort Garry.

' The settlers' houses are generally plain square boxes,
devoid of the smallest attempt at ornament ; without a
chimney even, unless a short projecting iron stove-pipe may
be called so. Wood is the material invariably employed, —
placed horizontally in long logs aboii*^ a foot square, Neither
gardens nor surrounding fences are in favour, and tlie
cottages stand all raw and bare-faced, as boulders are strewn
by a flood, or meteor-stones dropped from the sky.

* Near Fort Garry there are better buildings than these,
but incomparably the prettiest house in the district is one
lately put up by Mr. Rowand, at Sturgeon Creek. Standing
on rising ground, and backed by a wood of poplars, this
cottage looks southwards to the sun, and commands a
pleasant rural view of wooded slopes and many distant
homesteads. Enclosing the principal floor, — which is raised
on a low basement storey, — and surrounding three sides of
the house, runs a wide covered verandah, gaily painted and
quaintly formed ; while, above, the steepness of the shingle
roof is broken by numerous dormer windows, like a flock of
sheep reposing on a sunny bank. A garden, reached by
steps from the verandah, and some neatly enclosed grass
fields diversified with skilfully arranged transplanted trees,
frame in a picture whose equal I am persuaded will not
easily be found in British Central America.'

A short distance from this pretty place I met my old
friend James M'Kay, driving by himself in a horse cariole.
He begged me to take my place beside him, — determined to
forward me on my road, though his own lay in the opposite

\ i

\': '^

350

FORT PELLY TO FORT OARRV.

CHAP. XXIt.

fjii,

direction, — tlien stirring up Iiis horse lie speedily brought
me to Fort Garry — which I reached that afternoon after an
absence of nearly seven months.

Letters from home. ... It was in June that I
received the last.

HKI> KIVKK FrKK-HAO.

t'liAi'. xxir.

Y brought
u after an

lie tliut I

vvb^-s-

CHAPTER XXIIL

FORT GARRY.

January Wi. — I was so ^qA to find myself amidst
the comforts of Fort Garry, and the society of old friends
and acquaintances, as almost to feel pleasure in discovering
that I should be some time detained there, — waiting the
arrival of M'Kay and Short from Fort Pelly, winding up
accounts for the past journey, and arranging for the journey
that remained before stages and railway-cars were available.

My first day was passed in that absolute idleness which
is only agreeable after such hard work as I had lately under-
gone — and for which one is greatly inclined under such cir-
cumstances, — a purely animal existence of rest and warmth
and food.

On the following day {January \Qih) I walked to
Bishop's Court, the Episcopal residence, having received
an invitation from the Bishop of Kupert's Land ; this place
is about three miles distant from the Fort, going down
stream in the direction of Lake Winnipeg. It was horribly
cold weather ; su keen was the high south-westerly wind,
that, on returning, though I ran most of the way, my nose
■Vy^as again slightly frost bitten.

[This is the feature which cannot be protected, for
coverings do not answer where the breath freezes instan-
taneously into solid lumps of ice.]

' A newspaper, called " The Nor' Wester," has just been

U: .,

J •■•i ;■:

''^'^l i

■' 't:

■V.

352

FORT GARRY.

CHAP. XXIII.

established, its first number, the first that ever appeared iu
the settlement, having come out with the New Year.' [Thus
it was my fortune to witness the appearance of the first
steamboat and the first newspaper in this remote part of
the world.] ' It is conducted by two editors from Canada.,
who, withoiit assistance, carry on the entire business, me-
chanical as well as intellectual. Mr. Caldwell, one of these
gentlemen, called on me and obtained the outline of my
journey, which excites some interest here. There is a good
deal to fill a newspaper in this settlement, for besides other
things, there are many ecclesiastical and judicial matters to
record, in a place possessed of two bishops and a numerous
clergy, a governor, and various courts in continual employ.'

The strictness with which the laws are administered
has led to many prosecutions. No spirituous liquors, for
example, may be sold without a license, which costs £10
sterling, even the Company submitting to the same rule,
and paying all customs like the ordinary traders. A breach
of this law involves a penalty of £10, — half going to the
informer and half to the public funds, — but, nevertheless,
transgressions and convictions are constantly taking place.

January Wth. — 'After a visit to the Roman Catholic
Bisliop of St. Boniface, whom I found preparing for a short
journey to Pembina and its neighbourhood, I went to a
meeting summoned by the Bishop of Rupert's Land for
the purposes of drawing attention to the recent religious
revivals in the United States, Ireland, and elsewhere, and
of praying for an outpouring of God's spirit on this country
likewise.

'The meeting was lield in the schoolroom, and was
attended by al)out one hundred and fifty persons, chiefly
belonghig to tlie Scottish part of the community. The

i^i^

HAr. XXIII.

peared iu

,' [Thus

the first

e part of

. Canarla,

ness, nie-

! of these

le of my

is a good

ides other

natters to

nUi-nerous

employ.'

(liuistered

^uors, for

osts £10

lame rule,

A breach

ig to the

ertheless,

place.

Catholic

)r a short

eut to a

and for

religious

lere, and

country

and was
a, chiefly

iy. The

CHAP. XXIII.

FORT GARRY.

353

Bishop presided, supported by Archdeacon Hunter, the Rev.
Mr. Chapman, the Eev. Mr. Cowley, and the Eev. Mr. Black
(the Presbyterian minister), all of whom successively de-
livered addresses relating to the sudden progress of religion
in various places, and offered up short prayers for similar
manifestations among their own people.

'These prayers and addresses were listened to with
earnest, quiet attention, and a devout spirit seemed to pervade
the assemblage, but there was no appearance of excitement
or any strong emotion.

' In his opening speech the Bishop referred to my
journey, and especially to my communications with the
Christian Assiniboines of Bow Eiver, and with kind autho-
rity insisted on my addressing the meeting. This caused
me some embarrassment, for though sincerely anxious for
the spread of religion, and satisfied that more good than evil
generally results from revivals, I have the utmost horror of
those insane excitements which too often accompany them,
and seem more worthy of demoniacs than of devout Chris-
tians or humble penitents.

' To avoid acting as an inverted Balaam — brought in
to bless and cursing " altogether " — was difficult, but life is
full of such difficulties to men who are not partizans, — Gallios,
Gamaliels, Laodiceans, or citizens of Meroz, according to
one party; Korahs and Dathans, Jeroboams, Diotrepheses,
Sadducees, according to the other. To bring discord into a
special meeting is an indiscretion ; to misrepresent one's
belief is a crime. Remembeiing this, and striving to avoid
offence on either side, I began. After a few sentences iu
reference to the Bishop's remarks, I gave some details of the
religious movement in Scotland, praising tlie good I knew to
have been effected by such means. I then proceeded to say.

|:»

i ; I

354

FORT GALRY.

inAi'. XXIII.

m'.

;f *

fyi.f.

''^,

that tlie leading newspapers, — whose hostility to revivals
had just been severely commented on, — were far too shrewd
to run counter to the opinion of tlie majority of the educated
classes, and, this admitted, that it was only fair to suppose
that evils accompanied those widespread fervours, which
ought not to he charged against religion itself, nay, which
sprang from tendencies directly opposed to the principles of
the New Testament.

' Two principal sources of error I thought might he
discovered. The first, — that ordinary selfish habit which
leads men to look inwards instead of outwards, inducing
them to agonies of horror at the weakness and wickedness
of their own hearts and at Satan's strength, and of terror at
the thought of Divine vengeance, tlius often causing fearful
paroxysms expressed in convulsive words and acts ; whereas
the penitent ought to look outwards towards God, Avith
absolute confidence in His ]o\e and assurances of jiardon,
considerations which lead to holy calm, not to howls and
cries, weepings, and wailings and teeth-gnashings, only suit-
able to hell.

' The second, — the common tendency to make religion
a thing by itself, quite distinct from daily life ; so that
a man will impatiently leave his honest labour in order
to begin some devotional exercises, instead of remembering
that all acts ought to be so consecrated to religion that the
meanest occupation becomes a lioly sacrifice to God : —
even as George Herbert says — speaking of doing all to (Jod's
glory—

" A servant with lliis cliiiise

Ma1\e.s (lni(l_L;iMy diviiio :
Wild sweeps 11 room us I'or tliy laws
Afakes that, and the action, line." — {T/h; Eli.n'r, ver. 5.)

I'HAV. XXIII.

revivals
ioo shrewd
B educated
;o suppose
irs, which
lay, which
iuciples of

might be
ibit which
, inducing
vickedness
f terror at
ling fearful
5 ; whereas

God, with
of pardon,
howls and

only suit-

ce religion

so that

in order

iienibering

in that the

God :—

1 to (iod's

ixir, vt'V. 5.)

cHAi'. xxni.

FORT (^tARRY.

355

Erroneous views in this respect cause religiou to seem
gloomy, selfish, and ridiculous; the irreligious are made hostile,
and the waverers become indifferent.

' These remarks of mine (of Avhich I only give the sidi-
st.ance, having been called on for a speech unawares) seemed
to be approved of, but I doubt if their tendency was at all
generally understood.'

[The Bishop was good enough to clahu me as a brother-
missionary on account of the passages of Scripture I had
written out for the Assiniboiues, who had been represented
to me as ignorant of all but the outlines of Christianity, long-
isolated from teachers, and anxious for further religious
guidance.

A newspaper paragraph (adapted from the Nor' Wester)
relative to this subject, was afterwards forwarded to me by
the llev. Mr. Woolsey (the Wesleyan missionary I had the
pleasure of meeting at Fort Edmonton) with a letter which
opened my eyes to the mistake I had been led into, — pro-
bably through misunderstanding on the part of John M'Kay,
who being but imperfectly enabled to communicate with the
Assiniboiues, had perhaps exaggerated some remark about
their distance from teacliers and desire for further instruc-
tion. Of hypocrisy or deceitfulness I entirely acquit these
poor and honest Indians, nor can I doubt that M'Kay, as
usual, interpreted to the best of his power.

Mr. Woolsey's letter is so interesting that I have ])een
unable to resist quoting much more from it than the short
extract which mere justice requires : under all the circnni-
stances, I trust he will pardon me for doing so without
obtaining his previous sanction. The letter referred to will
be found in the Appendix.]

January \3fk. — 'The funeral (»f poor IVIr. Mackenzie

'n:

;ii

; f

! -f

■tt'ff '.''I

356

FORT GARRY.

CHAl'. XXIII.

took place to-day. He was in charge at Pembina when I
passed in May, and afterwards at tlie new station at Buffalo
liiver, half-way to Crow-wing.

' Some days ago he left that post, having to take charge
of a party for Fort Garry. Provisions ran short soon after
their departure, so he volunteered to go on alone to Pembina,
about forty miles distant, to get assistance. Expecting to
arrive there in one day,he took little with him, neither axe nor
bedding, only a small piece of pemmican and a few matches.
The weather was severe and a snowstorm came on; after
walking some twenty miles he lost the track, and wandered
helplessly in the woods for three days. A party on their
way from Fort Garry found him lying dead, hard frozen.
Apparently he had been aware of his approaching fate, and
liad calmly laid himself down to meet it, placing a pine
branch under his head for a pillow. Thus died a man ex-
perienced in travelling, one born and bred in the settlement ;
— a sad proof of the danger of a solitary journey during
winter in this terribly rigorous climate.

'The funeral was well attended, the deceased having
many relations and many friends. After a short address
from the Bishop, the coffin was removed from its temporary
resting-place; then, followed by a long line of mourners,
it was borne sixteen miles to a burying-ground near the
Lower Fort.'

Sunday, January 15th. — 'Trifling snow showers in the
morning, but the weather continued mild. There was a
sudden change in that direction on Friday, and at noon
yesterday the thermonie\er was 8° above freezing point.
Everyone agreed in infonuing me tliat this had been the
severest winter ever known in the district.

' Went to the service at the Bishop's church. The

i i

cnAV. xxiii.

ua wlieu I
at Buffalo

:,ake charge
soou after

Pembina,
:pecting to
lier axe uor
!W matches.
! on ; after
i wandered
by on their
ard frozen,
ig fate, and
dng a pine

a man ex-
settlement ;
■ney during

ed having

ort address

temporary

mourners,

1 near the

ers in the
lere was a
d at noon
ing point.
1 Leeu the

rch. Tl

CHAP. XXI 1 1.

FORT GARRY.

357

sermon was chiefly in reference to poor Mr. Mackenzie's
death. There was said to be an imusually numerous con-
gregation, yet, notwithstanding, the churcli had a very empty
appearance, — partly because it is too large at any rate,
partly because the majority of the Scotch settlers in the
innnediate neighboinhood are Presbyterians, who have left
off attending the Episcopalian services since obtaining a
minister of their own — the Pev. Mr. Black, of the Free
Church of Scotland, who a few years ago began his useful
and highly esteemed ministrations.'

January Idth. — 'There M'as a trial to-day which excited
great interest. An information had been laid against ]\Iagnus
Linklater, the Company's storekeeper, for selling rum to a
drunken man ; and, had the charge been proved, the Com-
pany would have been subjected to a fine of £10, and
deprived of their license till midsummer. Witnesses being
examined, it soon became evident that the accuser was
mistaken, — though his motives were believed honest, — and
Magnus was acquitted, much to the delight of the connnuuity,
who would have been highly inconvenienced by a restraint
on the Company's sales.

'The laws against selling spirits to Indians ore very
strictly enforced. Forfeiture of license and a £10 fine for
each offence are rigorously imposed if the least drop of
either spirits or beer is sold to one of pure Indian blood.
This regulation appears to work well, drunken Indians, who
used to be constantly troublesome, lieing now hardly ever
seen; but the spirit dealers are in a difficult position, impor-
tuned for liquor by the Indians, \\'1k) often disguise themseh'es
and make their applications in French (which they sometimes
speak fluently), and closely watched by their neighbours, who
are anxious to gain the informer's reward of £5 on each

;?■!;

■tit r

358

FORT GARRY.

CHAP. XXIII.

I/'

1-.

'i'l

-} I

; \\

■m^

proved case. Spite pf these difficulties the spirit trade is
said to be enormously lucrative, and such it will continue till
the vice of drunkenness becomes less prevalent in the district
than it now unhappily is.

' In an agricultural conversation to-day, it was stated to
me that cattle have much trouble in getting food in summer,
the ground being so broken up with swamps as to cause them
many miles of daily wandering in search of pasturage.
Inquiring if the drainage of these marshes would be possible,
I was told that in itself it was the easiest thing in the
world, my informant having dried a large tract by a single
open drain some 900 yards long, expecting also to make an
extensive improvement by carrying this work two miles
farther. The drain was not more than two feet wide, by a
foot and a half in depth, which is sufficient in this deep, soft
soil, when the floods of a single spring-time will enlarge a
small trench into a wide and deep watercourse ; in proof of
which it was mentioned that a cow had been drowned in the
drain just referred to before it had been a year open. The
imwillingness of the people to labour at such work is the
great obstacle to carrying out drainage operations.

' Cattle are fed on hay during the winter, but little care
seems to be taken of them at any time. The Company grow
turnips near Lower Fort Garry, but the settlers seldom do
so, disliking the trouble, necessary to rear a good* crop.
Wlieat flourishes here, though apt to be injured by late frosts ;
it is considered by the Scotch to be superior in yield and
quality to that grown in their native country. Barley also
succeeds well, but oats do not thrive.

' There is a great want of wood, even for fuel. What is
used for building purposes is rafted down the Eed Eiver ; no
considerable supply however is believed to exist.

n\v. xxui.

trade is
itinue till
le district

stated to
I summer,
Luse them
)asturage.

possible,
ig in the

a single

make an
,vo miles
ide, by a
leep, soft
jnlarge a

proof of
ed in the
m. The
k is the

ittle care
iny grow
ildom do
od • crop,
e frosts ;
ield and
rley also

What is
ver; no

CHAP. xxin.

FORT GARRY.

359

' Labour is scarce, owing to the demand for voyageurs by
land and water, which carries off a large proportion of the
able-bodied young men. Moreover, there is reason to doubt
if much aptitude for labour belongs to the constitution of
the native-born inhabitants, especially those of French origin.
As a rule the French half-breed is said to dislike continuous
work. No man will labour more cheerfully and gallantly in
the severe toils of the voyageur's calling, but these efforts
are of short duration, and when they are ended his chief
desire is to do nothing but eat, drink, smoke, and be merry,
— all of them acts in which he greatly excels.

' Though there is much general resemblance, the English,
or rather Scottish, half-breeds differ considerably from those
of French origin both in looks and character ; the former often
possessing the fair hair and other physical characteristics of
a northern race, while in disposition they are more industri-
ous and more actuated by a sense of duty, — for though the
word " devoir " is frequently on the lips of the semi-French-
man, the principle of " devoir " is not so strong in their hearts
as the impulses of passion or caprice.

' I cannot think so ill of the haif-breed population as most
writers appear to do. Physically they are a fine race, tall,
straight, and well proportioned, lightly formed but strong,
and extremely active and enduring. Their chests, shoulders,
and waists are of that symmetrical shape so seldom found
among the broad-waisted, short-necked English, or the flat-
chested, long -necked Scotch ; their legs are generally
extremely straiglit, and of those lengthened proportions
wliich, when caricatured, tend rather towards the knock-knee
than approach the bow.

' Tlieir feet are high in the instep ; and the long heel
with large back-sinew, high outwards-expanded calf, and

J .

r~ "

I if

r t

-ii'

h i

360

FORT GARRY.

CHAP. XXIII.

large knee, which accompany a flat foot, are, I think, never
to he seen among them, nor indeed among tlio pnre Indians.
This form, with its modifications, is more common in Scotland
than England ; possibly mountainous countries cause its
development, for it is one hetter fitted for ascent than for
gi'aceful movement on level ground.

* In countenance the half-breed is swarthy, with dark hair
and eyes ; his features are often good and aquiline in
character, but sometimes they are coarse, — though invariably
well proportioned, and utterly removed from the baboon jaw
and flat nose of the Old World savage. With some cleverness
and cheerfulness, their faces generally betray a certain
moodiness of temper ; neither the frank self-reliant generosity
of the English countenance, nor the sagacious honest respecta-
bility of the Scottish, are commonly stamped on the aspect
of these men, at once more meditative and more impulsive,

' Too many at home have formed a false idea of the half-
breeds, imagining them to be a race little removed from
barbarians in habits and appearance. They are supposed to
be copper-coloured men, going about imperfectly clothed and
grotesquely ornamented, obeying their chiefs, and yielding
neither respect nor obedience to the laws. Doubtless there
are some children of white fathers, who, left with their
mothers, have been brought up in Indian camps, and
have little of the European about them — not even the
language ; Imt the Eed Eiver half-breeds are in a totally
different condition. Their mode of dress is simply that
universal in the country — which I have already tried to
descri])e, — their appearance so little reveals their origin that
I doul)t if a half-breed, dressed and educated like an English-
man, would seem at all remarkable in London society. Tliey
build and farm like other ])eople, they go to church and to

...t

CHAP. xxni.

ink, never
e Indians.
1 Scotland
cause its
than for

dark hair

uiline in

invariably

iboon jaw

3leverne8s

a certain

generosity

i respecta-

he aspect

ipulsive.

' the half-

ved from

pposed to

>thed and

yielding

ess there

ith their

ips, and

veu the

I totally

[)ly that

tried to

igin that

English-

^ Tliey

I and to

CHAP. XXIII.

FORT GARRY.

301

courts of law, they recognise no chiefs (except when they
elect a leader for their great hunting expeditions), an ' mi all
respects they are like civilised nie'i, not more imetlucated,
immoral, or disorderly, than many communities in the Old
World.

' The Scottish settlers arc a considerable and very thriving
body. Their farms (in this quarter at least) are entirely on
the western side of the Ited liiver, where also stand the Fort
and the Protestant churches ; the French and French half-
breeds occupy the eastern side, and their large cathedral, with
its two horn-like little steeples,* and the comfortable-looking
adjacent establishment of the nuns, are as conspicuous as
Fort Garry itself, opposite to which they hold their place,
close beside the farther bank of the stream.

* In population the whole settlement, including Wliite
Horse Plains, does not much exceed 7000, — the common
estimate, 10,000, being a great exaggeration, — and this
nimiber is almost equally divided between Protestants and
Eoman Catholics, with a trifling majority of the former.
This calcidation, I am informed, shows also with much
accuracy the division of the races, those of British origin
belonging to the Protestant churches, those of French origin
to the church of Iiome.t

' There are not many Englishmen in the settlement.

* This cathedral being soon afterwards burnt down, was rebuilt, I believe,
on a dillerent model.

t " The province of ^Manitoba ... is the smallest province in th(!

Dominion, being only . . . 13.5 miles long, by . . . 105 miles broad

At present [1872] the population numbers about l.ljOOO, of whom not more
than 2000 are pure whites. One-fifth of the number are Indians, either living
ill houses or wanderers, one-third English or Scotch lialf-breeds, and rather
more than a third French half-breeds." Guaxt (Itcv. G.), — Ocean to Ocean,
1873, p. tie.

'If

■J}

t '

■'Hi

i ;

'!^

362

FORT GARRY.

CHAP. XXIII.

Some years ago a few families came out, but, with one
exception, they neither tlirove nor prospered, partly because
incapable of that economy in eatinff which enables the Scot
to make his first accumulations of money, partly because
their wives were unequal to heavy out-door labour. Amply,
however, did these poor women atone for their deficiencies
abroad, by their neat and orderly habits at home, — setting
nn example nnich required in those days ; — but there has
been a reform in such matters of Ifte.'

January 17th, 18M. — 'On Wednesday (18th) I visited
the editors of the Nor' IVcstcr. They were hopeful of success,
and believed that their paper had already created an appetite
for general news among the settlers, who had hitherto been
careless about interests not immediately concerning their
own district.

' On the same day, there was a Coroner .s Inquest on a
woman who had died from excessive drinking. The law,
so far as I could judge, was almost always impartially ad-
ministered, and the whole business of the courts conducted
with the utmost formality and precision.'

January \Wt. — 'Neither the south wva\, nor my men,
have yet arrived. I cannot imagine the cause of this delay,
as for some time we have been having beautiful, mild, sunny
weather ; almost, indeed, too warm for comfort in these stove-
heated houses.'

January 2].st. — ' M'Kay and Short arrived, bringing all
my things from Fort Pell}'.'

Sunday, January 2'ld. — 'Went with the Bisho]) to St.
James's Church, on the Assiniboine, wliere he officiated in
the absence of Mr. 'J'aylor, the incumbent.

' Several babies being in church, who made a continual
noise, the Bishop took notice of it in his sermon, remarking

CHAP. XXIII.

with one

ly because
s the Scot
y because
Amply,
eficieucies
, — setting
there has

I visited
j( success,
1 appetite
lerto been

ing taeir

(lest on a
The law,
tially ad-
ouducted

my men,

lis delay,

Id, sunny

se stove-

nging all

p to St.
iated in

ontinual
marking

CHAI*. XXIII.

FORT GARRY.

363

that he liked to see the children there, as it proved the
anxiety of their mothers to be present. This is very difl'erent
from the plan of a reverend gentleman I have heard of, who
orders children out of his chapel as troublesome intruders.

' Disturbances from children test the true value of a
sermon. If the interruption seems intolerable, and annoys
and confuses the preacher, his sermon has been pitched in
too high a key, and aimed at the nerves rather than the
heart or understanding ; but if the voices of the little ones
harmonise like a rude response, and the preacher rather smiles
than frowns, then the sermon is Christian and human.'
[This rule may hold good in ordinary cases, but one can
easily imagine poetical or intellectual discourses of much
usefidness and beauty, which would be utterly marred by
the vehement outcries of an infant — as much out of place
as a professor's bland argumentations in a nursery full of
hungiy babes. Nevertheless, a display of impatience by
the preacher is more detrimental to the finest sermon, than
the screamiugs of a multitude of bal)ies — so far as religion
is concerned.]

January 23d, 24^/t, 2oth. — These were chiefly days of
leave-taking. My men being now arrived, and all arrange-
ments complete for the journey to Crow-wing, there was no-
thing to detain me at Fort Garry, except a natural reluctance
to part from so many kind friends, and to exchange such
happiness and comfort for the discomforts of another fort-
night of monotonous winter travelling. But it was now
full time to return to my own home and country, to which
I was powerfully drawn by many ties and duties; so I
determined to press on with all possible haste, in the hope
of reaching New York before the departure of the Cunard
steamer that sailed about the middle of February.

- 1

364

FORT GARRY.

CI[AI>. XXIII.

On IMoiulay (23(1) T took leave of all my Hed llivor men,
except Kline, who was to act as driver and guide durinj^
the remaininj^ part of the journey. It wont to my heart to
8ay farewell to those excellent fellows, so long ]>artakers of
my good and evil fortunes, so cheery in ])rosperity, so gallant
in adversity, and I hope and believe that on this occasion,
as on so many others, our feelings were in the conipletest
accord. I shall ever feel under a debt of gratitude to these
true and faithful companions, — with what good cause, let
the readers of my book judge for themselves.

On Tuesday I ]>aid my farewell visit to the IMshop of
llupert's Land, from whom, with his esteemed sister Miss
Anderson, I had met with repeated, aiul very highly prized,
attentions during the whole of my stay ; and on AVednesday
afternoon came the sorrowful moment of departure from
Fort Garry, — sorrowful indeed, had I known that among
those kind and good friends whose hands so cordially grasped
mine, who speeded me on my way with such warm and
heart-felt adieux, there were some, — some too, of the kindest
and best, — on whose faces I sliould never look again, till,
perchance, we meet in some region beyond the grave.

Oh ! what a loss did the whole community sustain in
the death of that grave, prudent, right-minded man, who so
excellently ruled the important post of Fort Garry, who
afterwards so ubly perfornuMl the onerous and responsible
duties devolving on the Comi)any's Chief Iiei)resentative
abroad."""

]5ut, for myself, there is not only a share in such general

* rpim the ilcaUi (if Sir (icorrjii Simpson, Mr. AIiiftavi.sli was appointeil
(iovunior ot' Assinilioin, mid Mr. l):il!iis, diii' of tlic Directors of tliP (.'oiupuny
at tlu! tiiiii', was iiimle 'lovi'nior-iii-C'iiiff of the Territory. The latter resigned
in 186'2, and from that dale Mr. Mactavish hehl Loth ollices, till within a few
months of his death, whieli oecurred in -Inly, 1870.

■llf:

rJllAP. XXIK.

FORT GARUY.

305

and pul)li<' regrets, there is deep .sorrow for the losa of a
friend (Muleiired to nio by lii.s udniiriil)le and most attractive
({ualiticH, and by a thousanil kinchiesses ever freely Hhown
nio, — i<indni'ssos of no trivial sort, but displayed in many
lft])orioiis and tliouglitful services in my behalf. 1 was
living ill the ho])e of sweing him again, on his side of
the ocean or on mine, when of a sudden, in a casual con-
versation, the news reached me that my friend William
Mactavish was uo more. Alas for this world, but not for
him ! Wherever he now may be, this just and good man is
with the good and just, in some happier place than our poor
earth can offer to its beloved, honoured, and favoured ones.

■"«

if;

*i:|!!!

!l.i!!l

1 '

/It

CHAPTER XXIV.

FORT GARRY TO ENGLAND.

January 25th. — This afternoon I took my last leave of
Fort Garry and all its kind, agreeable, and most friendly
inmates.*

It was not our intention to march far before camping,
but the non-arrival of one of my people, who — through an
error on his part — had been left behind, in the expectation
that he would soon come up with us, obliged us to make an
earlier halt than contemplated, so we only travelled twelve
miles of the seventy that lay between our starting-point
and the Fort at Pembina.

[A curious circimistance happened as I was going to bed,
— as I hastily slipped myself between the buffalo robes, a
wide sheet of electrical flame blazed into my face, for a
moment illuminating the whole tent. The same thing
happened on a subsequent occasion, though ratlier less
vividly. These flames were doubtless similar to the sparks
that issue from a cat's fur when briskly rubbed in the dark
during frosty weather.]

January 26^A. — Kline made another of his great
journeys, taking me the remaining fifty-eight miles to Pem-
bina in a single day. We started at 3 a.m., and arrived at

* I rejoice to learn that Mr. Fortescue, senior clerk at the time of my visit
(to whom ] am indebted for much valuable assi.stant'e), is still in the Com-
panv's service, being at present (1874) offleer-in-charge at York Factory, an
important station on the shores of Hudson's Buy.

CHAP. XXIV.

FORT GARRY TO ENGLAND.

367

fc leave of
. friendly

camping,
rough an
pectation
make an
id twelve
ing-point

3g to bed,
) robes, a
,ce, for a
ne thing
tlier less
le sparks
the dark

is great

to Pem-

rrived at

of my visit
1 till! Coiii-
Factoiy, all

owmg to time

the fort at 8.30 p.m., having halted two liou
the road.

January 27th. — No progress to speak of,
lost in hiring another train, which had proved to be indis-
pensable, the baggage being too heavy for our Strength of
dogs. After much delay a suitable team and driver were found,
and engaged at a hire of £10 for the journey and return.

On the cordial and pressing invitation of M. Eolette, I
stopped for the night at his house, which is three miles
beyond the Fort in the direction we were travelling. He
had gathered a large party of friends and neighbours, and
entertained us very hospitably with a supper and a ball.
Though it was late when we started next morning, — not
earlier than about 9 o'clock, — we made 3 5 miles before camp-
ing at a wooded point some distance past Les Deux Rivieres.

January 28th-31st. — Nothing remarkable during the
next few days, except that while camped near Snake River,
on the 30th, we heard the trees cracking rej)eatedly from
the intenseness of the frost ; a common circumstance, it
seems, but new to me. The reports were loud and sharp, the
wood, I was informed, actually splitting into visible rents
and fissures.

Late on the 4th, or rather, early on the 5 th, we arrived
at Otter-tail, where, notwithstanding the untimeliness of the
hour, we were very hospitably received, and entertained dur-
ing the following day and night, by Colonel Sawyer, a gentle-
man who, at one time a member of the Ohio legislature, had
at length taken up his abode in this remote part of the States :
remotest, it might then have been termed, for Otter-tail City
was at the farthest point of settlement in Minnesota. It
only consisted of some half-a-dozen wooden houses : there
were also a few scattered farms in the neighbourhood. The

:,i

»S

i
I

i^ i

' (',

368

FORT GARRY

CHAI". XXIV.

f> It:

i i

sheet of water which gives it its name is said to be so
designated from a singular tongue of land which projects far
inwards near the entrance of tlie tributary stream, shaping
that part of the lake into the form of an otter's tail. Some
interest attaches to this lake, as being the main source of
the Eed Ei^-er ; which, after flowing thirty or forty miles in
a southerly direction, bends abruptly northwards, and sub-
sequently preserves that course until its termination in
Lake Winnepeg.

On the Gth we set out at 8 a.m., passed Leaf-Lake City
(that two-house city of the future), and reached the ferry
station on the now frozen Crow-wing Eiver about midnight ;
having halted twice on the way.

During this part of our journey we witnessed the com-
plete progress of a nearly total eclipse of the moon, from the
first slight invasion of its brilliant circle by the darkness,
which gradually enshrouded all but a narrow edge of light, to
its final deliverance from the slowlj^ retreating obscurity. As
I reclined at full length in the cariole, my face was set at a
convenient angle for these lunar observations, and it fortu-
nately happened that our road always tended in the best
possible direction for the same purpose.

After two hours' rest at the ferry-house we resumed our
march, and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon of the 7tli arrived
at Crow-wing City, where we stopped at the first inn that
offered itself, a small tavern kept by a Frenchman of the
name of Larue. It was very noisy, — preparations for a ball
having attracted a crowd of strangers, — but this signified
little, as I only intended to stay long enough to make parting
arrangements with my men, and engage a vehicle to take me
to Saux Eupids, whence there was a stage- waggon on Thurs-
day morning.

[''": f

CHAI'. XXIV.

. to be so
projects far
m, shaping
tiil. Some
I source of
;y miles in
I, and sub-
dnation in

-Lake City
I the ferry
; midnight ;

i the com-
n, from the
B darkness,

of light, to
urity. As

as set at a
id it fortu-
in the best

Slimed our

Jth arrived

; inn that

lan of the

for a ball

s signified

ike parting

;o take me

on Thurs-

ruAP. XXIV.

TO ENGLAND.

369

^/^

[As I sat iu the bar-room I beheld a sight that filled
me with sorrow and disgust, — -the once great chief of the
OjibwaySj " Hole-in-the-day," reeling about in a state of
contemptible drunkenness. Tliis degraded man was follow-
ing Larue everyAvhere, with the most abject importunities for
drink. " Charlie, Charlie, do giv^^ me more ! " was his piteous,
incessant cry, while tears ran down his j)ale and flabby
cheeks. At length in an agony of supplication he caught
hold of Larue's coat-skirt ; the tavern-keeper spurned him
away, and he fell on his face upon the floor, with helpless
blubberings like a scolded child.

Two Indians stood within, acting as guards of honour
for their degenerate chief Tliey were stern and savage of
look, their arms and their scanty dress were almost entirely
of native fashion. One of them bore in his hand a long
tomahawk. I watched this man's eye when Larue spurned
tlie drunkard from him, and I saw that there was but a step
between that lively young Frenchman and his tomb. But
doubtless the Indian was accustomed to such scenes, and had
learnt to control his feelings ; at all events, he and his com-
panion made no hostile movement, but quietly crossed the room
to their abject leader, lifted him up in their arms, and put him
into a handsome horse-sleigh which awaited him at the door.

This Hole-in-the-day was a rich man, being largely
subsidised by the LTnited States, who paid him an annuity
for the districts purchased from the tribe, besides granting
him e.Ktensive reservations of land. He owned a house
furnished in the European style, in which each of his six
wives had her separate apartment ; he had fine horses, fine
sleighs, and every luxury his heart could desire. Once he
was poor, now he is rich : once, warriors would fall before
him ; now, he licks the dust at a publican'.s feet.

Mm-

:;i

:'l

370

FORT GARRY

ClIAl'. XXIV.

The first Indian I saw in tlie United States was a
drunken blaclconavd reeling through a l)eautiful forest; the
hast I saw was a drunken chief grovelling in a road-side
tavern.]"'

Fehruary 8th. — A few words will snfiice for the
renuiinder of my journey. Leaving Crow-wing at midnight
T reached Saux Rai)ids in eighteen hours, and then went on
by stage to St. Anthony. Arriving at St. Paul on the 10th
I started early the following morning, slept at Wabashaw,
and on Sunday afternoon reached La Crosse, having travelled
the last fivc-and-thirty miles from Wenona on the fro>cen
surface of the Mississippi. At La Crosse I came within
reach of railways, and proceeding uninterruptedly, except by
some changes of train, for three niglits and two days, arrived
at Xew York about noon on AVednesday the IHth.

Finding myself too late for the regular Cunard steamer,
— the " Asia," it appeared, having just sailed, — I drove to the
Brevoort House, and for the second time settled myself at
that most comfortaljle hotel ; intending to take my passage
in the " Canada," another steam-A'essel of the same line, which
was to start from ])Oston in a few days. I was fortunate
enough, however, to become accpuiinted with tlie late Sir

* " Bufj-on-a-h'-nhitj literally iiieaiis Hoh'-in-tltc-fikii. The \var-.soii<{ of
this cliii'l' was mUlrcssed to his giiaiiliaii spirit, seen through a hole in the sky. "
— Sciiooi.fUAFT, — J!rportiiii tli<' Indian I'l-ihcsaf IJic United States, vol. ii. KJO.

As tliis liejiort was ]iiililisheil in 1851, it is jiossihle that the chief there
referred to was the fatiier of the chief seen hy me in ]8(!0 ; for with tii(! Ojili-
wiiys (unlike many of the other trihes) personal names often doscend in fandlies.
The warrior described liy Mr. Schoolcraft is spoken of as the bravest of the
bi'ave. "Some of his contemjioi'ary warriors say of him — 'At the moment of
excitement he would have tiirown himself into the lire.' . . \U' had that way
about him that induced the few who leally loved him to be willing even to die
for him. . . During his lifetime he distingui.shed himself in eight ditferciit
tights."- Kciiooi.ciiAi'i', — vol. ii. \k Km.

! ;

CHAP. XXIV.

xtes "vvas a
forest; the
a road-side

;e for the
at iniduij>lit
ten went on
in the 10th
Wabashaw,
no; travelled

the frozen
anie within
f, except by
lays, arrived
,h.

ard steamer,
drove to the
d myself at

my passage

line, which
as fortunate

le late Sir

wav-soiij,' of
1(! ill the sky."
:% vol. ii. 1(50.
tlio cliief there
with t\w (\jili-
lul in families,
bravest of the
tlie iiioment of
had that way
ling even to die
eight ditfeivnt

CHAP. XXIV.

TO ENGLAND.

371

Edward Cunard, who, on learning my intentions, very oblig-
ingly offered me a passage in the " Etna," one of the Com-
pany's line screw-steamers, which was shortly starting for
Liverpool, under the command of my old acquaintance
Captain [now Sir James] Anderson.

A few pleasant days glided quickly by amidst the amnse-
ments of New York. Again I found myself a sharer in the
frank and genial hospitalities so cordially offered me by
acquaintances both old and new, though to none was I so
much indebted during both my visits to this city as to my

very agreeable friends, the II Is, whose kindness I shall

never forget. Then came the hour of departure, and on the
Idth of February I bade my final adieu to the New World.

I was the only passenger on board the " Etna," that vessel
being one of the Company's goods-steainers, and found my-
self in possession of an excellent deck-cabin, large and airy,
infinitely preferable to the close and narrow quarters I had
occupied in the " Africa ; " everything in short had been,
and continued to be, done for my comfort during the twelve
days of the homeward voyage. But right glad was I once
more to set foot on my native laud, after so long an absence
and such distant wanderings.

:(: i

V. J

E r 1

riinii

l| ;l;'

APPENDIX.

REMARKS ON "THE WINTER'S TALE."

July 28^— 'Finished "The Winter's Tale." How grandly
Hermione replies to the King's first accusations ! It is consistent
with her frank and noble objective character, that tears and anger
should not be so ready as with the weaker Desdemona or more
womanish Imogen. What instinctive truth belongs to Shake-
speare ! It cannot he supposed that he laboriously studied out
every little touch that gives individual life to his characters ; his
great imagination guided him into spiritual verities, even without
the cognisance of his reason.

' How inconsistent would it have seemed for Desdemona or
Imogen to say — " I am not prone to weeping . . . but I have
that honourable grief lodged here which burns worse than tears
drown," It is just this sort of woman that would be so frankly
kind to her husband's friend, as to give colour to a jealous fool's
suspicions ; — note her own words.

' Then is it not subtly fine that the ghost of Hermione should
be represented as diffused in tears, — the feebler inner-soul,
unsupported by the nobly strong physical woman, yielding help-
lessly to weakness 1 It may be said that it was not a real ghost,
as the queen was living. Nevertheless we must hold it as a
temporary separation of her body and her spirit — such as seems
sometimes to occur in mesmeric trances — or the impressiveness of
the story is lost. Are we to hold that a mere fit of indigestion
communicated prophetical lore to Antigonus %

' I dislike Florizel's falsehood to King Leontcs about his
father. It might easily have been avoided. A dramatist ought

'V.

44 i.
Mi

^^1^

i 'l

' ■ . i; ' M

374

APPENDIX.

not to sink his higher cliaracters by basenesses which we cannot
forget nor forgive. '

' Is it not well done that Leontos, ere his reunion with
Hermione, should have won back our sympathy by his loving
penitence, and given earnest of future goodness ! The queen's
restoration would otherwise have been painful. It must be
observed, also, that Leontes made no direct attempt against her
life. It would have been incongruous to restore Desdemona to
Othello with an indelible finger-gripe on her neck. Posthumus,
indeed, orders Imogen's death, but he does not himself use
violence.

' Poor Camillo ! Avhy reward all his worthiness by mating him
to that windmill-tongued old wretch Paulina]'

RE^IAIJKS ON "IIA^ILET."

til'lN

^!^^

Jnli/ 30//t. — [With such splendour has Shakespeare surrounded
the very name of Hamlet, so largely has he made that character
the mouthpiece for his own loftiest meditations, that, dazzled l)y
the glory which encompasses this prince of tragedy -princes, most
people account him a noble-minded hero, — a sort of sutFering
demigod, — and resent all attempt to show him in a less favour-
able light, as an offence against poetry and morals, nay, even as
an attack upon the great dramatist himself. That such notions,
as well as others commonly associated with the Hamlet drama,
are untenable, is my settled belief, and I hope that the fol-
lowing remarks may tend to form or strengthen that conviction in
at least some minds; though, indeed, Avhen thus writing, I had no
controversial design, my observations being merely intended to
enlarge and elucidate the notes which now barely serve for their
foundation.

With these remarks I proceed to an extract from my journal-
notes for the 3 1st of July, whicix were written immediately after my
first attentive reading of "Hamlet," an undertaking happily begun
during our halt on the shores of the beautiful Jack-fish Lake.]

ill we cannot

Bunion with
^ his loving
The queen's
It nnist he
t against hor
'I'sdemona to
Posthumus,
himself use

T mating him

3 surrounded
lat character
;, dazzled by
)rinces, most
of suffering
less favour-
lay, even as
uch notions,
mlet drama,
lat the fol-
onviction in
iig, I had no
intended to
rve for their

my journal-
ely after my
ppily begun
1 Lake.]

IIFMAIIKS ON HAMLET.

375

Julij 31s/. — 'Finished reading "Ilaudct;" will read it again

and again llandet was more mad than he himself

supposed — it was not all feigning. The slight uuhingcnient of
mind on seeing the gb^ i;uggcsted to him to ftiign insanity. It
is easy for imaginative m.-n to go into half madn«'ss if they choose
to give fancy the rein. They are alwajs half mad in mind —
fools are half mad in word and act.'

[There can be litth; doubt that Handet was not intended by
Shakespeare to be actually mad.

(1) The subject of the original history of Hamlet (written in
Latin by Saxo Grammaticus towards the close of the twelfth
century, reproduced in French by Belh forest in his Ilisfoircs
Tivfjiques (begun in 15G4), and thence translated into English),
which forms the basis of Shakespeare's drama, as well as most
probably of earlier dramas on the same stoi-y, specially consists
in the crafty devices carried out by the young Prince of Denmark
under the guise of lunacy. Though Shakespeare modifies the
old tales whence his plots are derived, it is not his general prac-
tice to alter them essentially ; but to make feigned madness into
real madness, in the case of the hero of this stor}', would be to
change its whole spirit aiul design.

(2) The rude extravagancies of the ancient Handet being
softened down in the earlier Sh;" ^' .^^oarean drama printcfd in 1 G03,
the poet softens them down yet further in the mature<l play of
1G04, as if wishing to prevent the madness from seeming too real.
The hero is too mad in the old story, and too sane in the matured
play, to deceive the careful observer, but in the immature play
the true aspect of madness had been rather over-closely presented.

(3) The shrewdest observers ui the play do not considc'r
Hamlet to be mad. The King, Polonius, Kosencrantz, and Guil-
denstern, all doubt or refuse to allow his insanity, while admitting
his extravagance. Horatio quite ignores it ; it is only the Queen
and Ophelia who are fully deceived.

(4) Hamlet distinctly announces his intention to "put an antic
disposition on," and he does so occasionally with very obvious

design.

«t i

».

.It

t;»!

1- 1

.'{"(i

APPENDIX.

(5) lliunlct rcpt'iitcilly dcclan'S tlmt lio is not mad, except in
policy. "I essentially iim not ill madness, but mad in craft:"
'* Ecstasy I my pulse, as yours, doth temperately keep time . . .
it is not madness that I have uttered : bring mc to the test : "
"I am but mad north-north-west:" immediately after which last-
quoted sayinj^ he puts a most " antic disposition " on to ridicule
Polonius, as (piickly resuming a manner of the shrewdest sense
on the entrance of the Players.

((')) His general conversation, habits, and conduct, are as far
as possible from those commonly attributed to lunatics.

(7) (lis general conduct and ccmversation are not those of a
lunatic as represented elsewhere in Shakesi)eare's writings. See,
for example, Ophelia's real derangement : — " She . . . spurns
enviously at straws : speaks things in doubt, that carry but half
sense ; her speech is nothing, yet the unshaped use of it doth
move the hearers to coll''ct!oii : they aim at it, and botch the
Avords up fit to their own thor.ghts." Hamlet, on the contrary,
in his wildest moods, speaks with bitter positiveness things of
the clearest meaning ; his replies are " juvgnant ; " his speech,
even when " lacking form a little," is " not like madness."

On the ( her hand it may be urged : — (1) There are strange
outbreaks which could scarcely be countt>rfeit ; such as Hamlet's
"wild and whirling'' words to his father's ghost — " Ah ha, boy 1
. . . art thou there, truepenny 1 . . . well said, old mole ! "
th(! sudden brutality of his sarcasms in the interview with
Ophelia ; and his extravagantly disgusting conduct at her burial.
(2) Hamlet himself most solemnly declares his own "sore distrac-
tion," when apologising to Laertes for the burial outrage.
" AViiat I have done ... I here proclaim was madness. . . .
If Hamlet from himself be ta'en away . . . then Hamlet does
it not. Who does it then ? — His madness." Such a defence, if
mere simulation, Avould be impossible, it might be said, for an
even moderately honourable man ; and one so steeped in baseness
as to be capable of shielding himself by such degrading falsehood,
must necessarily be an old and suspected offender against honour,
incapable of impressing many persons with a belief in his

1, except ill
in craft : "

I timo . . .

the tost : "
whirli last-
to mliculo

k'Jest mmsii

are as fur

!S.

those of a

iiigs. See,

. . spurns

•ry hut half

of it doth

botch the

e contrar)',

3 things of

his speech,

ess.

are strange

^s Hamlet's

h ha, boy !

(I mole!"

view with

ler burial.

I'e distrac-

outrage.

ness. . . .

imlet docs

lefence, if

id, for an

11 baseness

falsehood,

st honour,

ef in his

llE^[ARKS ON HAMLKT.

1 1

nobleness of character. Never could the discreet Horatio have
had reason to say of such a one — " Now cracks a nolle heart.
Good-night, sweet jHunce." Nor the manly Fortinbras — " Let
four captains bear Hamlet like a soldier ... for he was likely
... to have i)roved rif/ht rinjdlly." Nor the sensitive Ophelia
— "O what a nohle mind is hen; o'erthrown !"

The true explanation I believe to be that given in my
journal, one which indepi'iidently suggested itself on first perusal
of the play, though I have met with it since. Hamlet's
mind was slightly unhinged : ho fidt it to bo so, and his swift
imagination immediately showed him how his infirmity might be
turned to profit l)y an easy exaggeration of its nature and extent.
When it pleased him to control himself, he could generally do so
to perfection ; when he preferred to yield to his impulses, he
could always do so with effect. He was one of those who have
more art in dealing with a situation created for them, than in
creating one for themselves. In act he seeks to falsify his own
axiom — " There's a divinity doth shape our ends, rough-hew
them how we will ; " changing it into — Doth rough-hew our
en/'s, we shape them how we will ; — for, in reality, he usually has
no ends at all.

I cannot agree in that very generally received estimate of
Hamlet's character which is so eloquently expressed by Goethe, in
his WilheJm Meisfer (Book iv. chap. 13, Carhjles translation)*
" Shakespeare meant ... to represent the effects of a great
action laid upon a soul unfit for the performance of it. . . . A
lovely, pure, noble, and most moral nature, without the strength
of nerve which forms a hero, sinks beneath a burden which it
cannot bear, and must not cast away."

Except in one resi)ect, there is no want of nerve in Hamlet's
constitution ; on the contrary, he shows himself fearless, and
even reckless, beyond most people's measure. His one weak-
ness is a want of originating will-power ; an innate defect derived
from his feebly voluptuous mother, along with, perhaps, a certain

* Mj' quotation is taken from the preface to the Clarendon Press Series
edition of " Hamlet."

•):5

•I:

'■.',!>

'f i

378

APPKNDIX.

Itliysicivl inert iit's.s. Ket <ir(iiinstii:.(M's tlimw liiin inlo iutinn,
nuil no oiKi goes straiylitcr to his niaik. Far from .slirinlviiit,'
from tho stoniest action, ho loves it ; when ho receivos iv strong
impulso to set him agfiing, ho feels like a disiirmed warrior new
furnished with a sword ; ho revels in his power to wound tho
hearts and lives of those whom his moods may iti(»m|tt him to
attack, whether or not tlu^y havti done him any adef|iiat(( injury.

IJut when it is not a question of some special action su<ldeidy
presented to him, when a complex system of action has to l)o
determined on, then his want of originative will hampers aiul
perplexes him ; and not only so, hut his subtle imagination
oppresses him with a burdensome crowd of ideas, Avhich it takes
him long — too long — to classify and reduce t(» working form.

Had ho ever attained to seeing his way ho would have gone
straight forward — no man better ; but then a path needs nioro
illumination for some people than others, because they are nioro
particular where they set their feet. Is it generally considered
how diiVicuIt his path was? The action of the ])lay (as I shall
presently endeavour to show) hardly, if at all, belongs to rude
and lawless times, but to a period of civilisation and order, when
high-handed nuirder could not bo perpetrated with impunity, nor
rebellion entered on without preparation, or, at least, a fair pre-
text. Which of us nn^lerns would lightly hasten to the nuirder
of an uncle — one's lawful sovereign, one's own mother's husband,
— merely because a phantom declared his guilt? — tin? corrobora-
tive evidence being little or none. Instead of thinking the
scheme wherein to " catch the conscience of the king," a mere
excuse for procrastination, 1 see in it tho ingenious expedient of
an " indifferent honest " mind, very reasonably mistrusting its
own impressions. Whether or not ghosts were more believed in
then than now, who could be sure, as Hamlet says, that this one
was not a fiend in disguise ? — "The devil hath i)ower to assume
a pleasing shape."

But Hamlet's mintl being partially off its balance, it was a
perilous experiment to unchain his passions, and act the madness
to which he ever so slightly tended; consequently, as the action

into action,
ni Hliriiikiii^
ivoH (I slrnnj;
warrior nt^w
) wound tho
)nipt him to
uato injury,
ion su<l(l«'nly
n li:is to hv
liinnu'rs antl
imaginatiou
liicli it takes
ing form.
Ill have gone
needs more
liey are more
ly considered
ay (as I shall
)ngs to rudo
order, wdien
nil>iinity, nor
st, a lair pre-
tlie murder
er's husband,
corrol)ora-
tliinking the
ing," a more
expedient of
strusting its
e believed in
that this one
r to assume

iico, it was a
tlie madness
s the action

IIE.MAUKS ON HAMLET.

370

advances, and tho pressurn on Ida brain becomes heavier, we find
indications of real and dangerous excitement tinder provo<'ativ«i
circumstances ; and to this — to partial and momentary, not to
entire and permanent, alienation of mental control — I partly
attribute such inciiU-nts as the outbreak of cruel sarcasm in tho
intcirview with Ophelia, the frenzieil declamation when tho King
has been " frighted with false fire," and, above all, tho almost
veritably mad behaviour in the burial scene. I think, moreover,
that Handet was not unconscious of thesis aberratio'.is, and thus
deluded himself (in the myth-making fashion of his mother) into
believing that ho made his ainciula to Laertes with perfect sincerity
and honour.

Tho word mid is indetenuinato : wo need clearer definitions
before pronouncing absolutely on Hamlet's state. It may be
remarked, in passing, that wo are led to understand that ho
perpetrated manyAvild eccentricities — like King David's, perhaps,
when feigning madness among tho Philistines — of which no
details are given —

•' Orating so h-.rslily all his days of quiet,
With turbulent and dangerous lunaey " —

this being said (Act iii. 1) before any violent actions or speoclios
are recorded : besides which his lunacy Avas currently believed
in by the populace (Act v. 1), Avhich could hardly have l)een the
case without some conspicuous demonstrations on his part. One
Avould naturally expect this, as Handet's deeds, under tho pre-
tence of madness, form a very important portion of tho ancient
story : — " Hee rent and tore his clothes, wallowing and lying in
tho durt and mire, his face all filthy and blacke, running through
the streets like a man distraught, not speaking one word but
such as seemed to proceed of madness and meere frenzie." —
(CoLLiE!i, — Slutkcspedre's Library, vol. i. p. 137.)

Goethe's dictum, that Handet was of " a lovely, pure, and
most moral nature," I fiiul it impossible to accept. This, to my
mind, mistaken notion arises from want of discrimination between
Hamlet's deeds and his words ; and, again, between his own
deeds and words, and those of other people in reference to him.

11: I

1' v\

380

APPENDIX.

i;-l li^.

!■ :i 1 1'

The strength of his character — and the key to it — consists in a
magnificent imagination of tlie receptive sort ; as the weakness
lies in a want of originating, creative will. A character of that
type is essentially deceptive, because its power of assimilation causes
it, chameleon-like, to assume all hues ; so that, if through circum-
stances it is inclined to the reception of beautiful influences, it
receives such store of them as to seem eminently beautiful in the
sheen of its borrowed adornrae.:ts.

It is perhaps scarcely fair to contrast Hamlet's character with
that of his friend Horatio, the latter being so little brought before
us in action. Yet we have good grounds for allowing to Horatio
all the nobleness ascribed to him by others in the play, for neither
in word nor deed does he ever fall short of his standard ; while as
regards Hamlet, though admitting his high reputation, we are
compelled to assign it less to his deeds than to his vast stock of
excellent sentiments, some of which, in truth, had little enough
relation to his actual nature. But from this specious show of lofty
habitudes of mind, in addition to fascinating manners and many
dazzling accomplishments, arose the exaggerated estimate of his
nobleness formed by most of the personages in the drama. As
a curious illustration of the unplanned deceptiveness of his
character, observe the remark of his uncle, King Claudius, when
speaking of him to Laertes — " He being remiss, most generous,
and free from all contriving." And this of the wary, subtle,
secretive, dissimulating Hamlet !]

' Hamlet says that he is ambitious : — " I am very proud,
revengeful, ambitious : " — it seems likely that he was.'

[Little as self-accusations, or half-ironical self-regarding
sarcasms, are meant to be taken as true, there is often much
truth in them, and they serve to show how the wind sets in a
man's brain ; he has, at any rate, been occupying his thoughts
on the subject. Hamlet manifests all the faults of which he
definitely accuses himself, but in the negative, feminine manner
that belongs to his nature, one which feels and speaks rather
than acts. His revengefulness displays itself in bitterness, his

J. i .

>:i

-consists in a
the weakness
acter of that
lilation causes
rough circum-
influences, it
autiful in the

haracter with
rought before
ng to Horatio
ly, for neither
ird ; while as
ation, we are
vast stock of
little enough
show of lofty
3rs and many
timate of his
i drama. As
eness of his
audius, when
ost generous,
wary, subtle,

very proud,
s.'
lelf-regarding

often much
ind sets in a
his thoughts
of which he
line manner
leaks rather
itterness, his

REMARKS ON HAMLET.

381

pride and ambition take the form of wounded vanity. " Not
so, my lord : I am too much i' the sun :" — Hor. " Your poor ser-
vant ever. Ham. I'll change that name with you:" — "And
what so poor a man as Hamlet is, may do : " — " I am most dread-
fully attended : " — " I eat the air, prom.ise-crammed : you cannot
feed capons so : " — " Beggar that I am, I am even poor in thanks : "
— " Why should the poor be flattered 1 " — " What advancement
may I hope from thee ? " — " Sir, I lack advancement : " surely
these citations prove that poverty and lack of position, — neither
of which could have been more than comparative, in the case of
the intensely beloved son of the Queen, the acknowledged heir to
the throne of Denmark, — formed cause of discontentment to the
prince, so constant and embittering that dignity and self-respect
were unable to save him from laying bare the rankling wound at
every opportunity, whether in presence of friend or foe. Would
Horatio have permitted himself such weak self-display 1 Is there
anything of fortitude or heroism in Hamlet's incessant complain-
ings, however natural and excusable 'i

There is no warrant for the notion that Hamlet was debarred
from a throne that was his by right of succession. The crown
was clearly elective, — a fact which Hamlet himself does not dis-
pute : " popped in between the election and my hopes," is the
charge he brings against his uncle, he does not in that sense
accuse him of usurpation ; and his very last breath is spent in
promoting the election of Fortinbras to the vacant throne : —

" But I do prophesy the election lights
Oil Fortinbras : he has my dying voice."

It would nevertheless appear, from the passage just quoted, and
from the remark of Rosencrantz to Hamlet — " You have the
voice of the King himself for your succession," — that potent in-
fluence accompanied the recommendation of those high in place,
especially that of the reigning sovereign. But for the premature
death of the elder Hamlet, he would undoubtedly have nominated
his son as successor ; but no such nomination having been made,
Claudius, aided by the Queen and Polonius, secures the election,

ilil f

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382

APPENDIX.

1 1'

I i

I I

and, in doing so, seems unconscious that young Hamlet has been
wronged, or even given cause for discontent. With evident
sincerity the King exclaims (speaking of his nephew), —

. . . " What it should be
More than his father's death, that thus hath put him
So much from the understanding of himself,
I cannot dream of."

Subsequently the Queen expresses herself very similarly, when
replying to the King's remark that Polonius had found " the
head and source of all her [your] son's distemper : " —

" I doubt it is no other than the main,
His father's death and our o'er-hasty marriage."

Had Hamlet been deprived of his succession illegally, or even
by straining of law, it is impossible that the usurpers should not
have known that the disinherited prince had other grounds for
discontent than those they specify. It is clear enough, however,
that even if Hamlet did not think himself actually wronged in
this exclusion, he was yet exceedingly disappointed at the sudden
eclipse of his fortune.

It seems probable that disgust at his own subordinated posi-
tion had as much to do with Hamlet's melancholy, as grief for
his "dear father murdered," or righteous indignation at his
mother's lapse from honour. People feel things differently.
Hamlet had a refined and subtle intellect, and mav be credited
with lofty aspirations, but selfism (not exactly selfishness) was of
the essence of his character; and such a character feels few
except the most physically startling events by immediate iinpres-
sion, but passes them through his mind, and more or less con-
sciously decides whether or not to feel them. His feelings,
therefore, though often sufficiently good and powerful at the
last, are to some extent at his own command at the first ; and
where present feelings connected with his personal wellbeing
are also under consideration, they are apt to dominate those
that relate to a remoter interest. Not so with the more objective
mind ; impressions with it are as wounds which hurt, and which

TJ 'h

REMARKS ON HAMLET.

383

Tilet has been
>Vith evident

; him

(nilarly, when
I found "the

gaily, or even
rs should not
r grounds for
igli, however,
y wronged in
it the sudden

endure, according to the intrinsic nature and force of the blow
that has occasioned them. With a Hamlet it is — I am miserable :
Wherefore 'i My father is dead. With an Ophelia — My father is
dead, therefore I am miserable.

Hamlet had too much feeling for himself to have much for
others, except as ministers to his comfort or convenience, though
that by no means prevented others from having great feeling for
him. His grief in the first interview with Ophelia must have
been mostly pity for himself, not compassion for her, to judge by
his subsequent brutality ; in fact he shows no sign of active good-
heartedness throughout the whole drama, except in his injunction
to the players regarding Polonius, — " See you mock him not," —
which, I suspect, sprang from his consciousness that he had been
too much lowering the dignity of high station, in presence of men
of humbler rank, by his gibes at the Lord Chamberlain, a mistake
that both pride and policy impelled him to set right.

The Hamlet in the ancient story is an utterly unscrupulous,
iliough most able and crafty man, and Shakespeare, no doubt, to
'I .reat extent elaborated his Hamlet fi'om the original character.]

•dinated posi-
, as grief for
ation at his
s differently,
be credited
liness) was of
cr feels few
diate iinpres-
or less con-
His feelings,
erfu) at the
le first ; and
al wellbeing
minate those
ore olyective
t, and which

'Hamlet attempts to excuse his irresolution in not killing
his uncle when at prayer, by the pretence that he waits for a
deeper revenge.'

[I do not think that Shakespeare's Hamlet halntually enter-
tained thoughts so diabolical, but, through the force of his brood-
ing imagination, he at the moment believed in those ideas, and
felt an intellectual pleasure in contemplating his own sublime
malignity. His real motive for sparing the King was, partly want
of the impulse his nature required (a sort of psychical " Dutch
courage "), partly the natural reluctance of a refined, and more or
less honourable, gentleman to commit a cold-blooded murder.]

' It seems to me improljable that the players should have
acted before the King and Queen a play which, at the very out-
set, condennis the Queen's conduct in regard to her second marriage,
especially as this " over-hasty marriage " appears to have offended

384

APPENDIX.

>i '

III

I' <

ill.

the nation, and been a common subject of talk. Moreover, the
dumb show at the beginning too accurately represents the real
murder. So astute a man as Hamlet could not have wished the
King to know with certainty that the horrible secret was dis-
covered. I believe that Hamlet had no doubt of his uncle's guilt,
but feigned to himself that he wished for further confirmation,
through watching his conduct at the play, as a mere excuse for
irresolution. Hamlet himself had remarked how easily an actor
changes his countenance under the influence of the fictitious passion
excited by his subject, and might not a spectator be equally
affected, although not a " galled jade 1 " '

[As has already been shown, I dissent from my former opinion
that Hamlet was satisfied of his uncle's guilt. I continue to
think that the players are made to present too closely the real
circumstances of the King's murder and the Queen's marriage.
Apart from abstract considerations, what are Hamlet's own words]
"I'll have these players play something like the murder of my
father," and afterwards, — " There is a play to-night . . . one
scene of it comes near the circumstance ... of my father's
death." But in fact this scene is much more than something like
that described by the ghost, it is identical with it, — the slumber in
the garden, the poison poured into the ea^/, and, as if to prevent
any chauv. of misapprehension, the motive of the mi rderer, and
his man'iage with his victim's widow, are carefully otated to the
audience.

Sun'ly in these improbabilities there must either have been
oversight, possibly from indifference on Shakespeare's part to
what he deemed unimportant ; or concession to some theatrical
dictation, prompted perhaps by unwillingness to alter the estab-
lished representation of a favourite scene in existing popular
dramas on the story of Hamlet.

A mere change of countenance in those witnessing a play,
especially a play calculated to "appal the free" as well as to
" make mad the guilty," proves nothing, arising as it might from
extreme sensitiveness of nerve, or, on the part of one who knows
himself suspected, from a fear of confirming the suspicion ; never-

|i I

loreover, the
mts the real
e wished the
3ret was dis-
1 uncle's guilt,
confirmation,
re excuse for
isily an actor
itious passion
ir be equally

jrmer opinion
; continue to
osely the real
sn's marriage.
's own words]
lurder of my
ght . . . one
my fatlier's

something like
he slumber in

if to prevent
ni rderer, and

tated to the

er have been
are's part to

me theatrical
;er the estab-

sting popular

ssing a play,
xs well as to
t might from

e who knows
icion ; never-

REMAllKS ON HAMLET.

386

theless, in Hamlet's case it M'as worth while to seek for corrobora-
tive evidence by carefully watching the King. I cannot, however,
believe that he lay staring open-eyed at his uncle, with an
ostentation of brutal rudeness, as some actors have represented
him to do, absurdly exaggerating the suggestion of the words —
" For I mine eyes will rivet on his face."]

' Hamlet must have been at least thirty, by his reminiscences
of Yorick, who died twenty-three years before. He speaks of his
mother as a " matron " long past her younger days.'

[Thirty is distinctively specified as Hamlet's age, but there is
evident incongruity between the earlier and later parts of the
play in regard to this matter. At first the prince's youthfulness
is dwelt on as if it were something almost noteworthy : " Young
Hamlet" — "Going back to school [college] at Wittenberg" —
" For Hamlet and ... his favour, hold it ... a violet in the
youth of primy nature" — "Thou noble youth" — "Unmatched
form and feature of blown youth " — " Believe so much in him
that he is young : " and this idea of a scarcely developed man-
hood is preserved until the fifth act, when, in the scene with
the gravediggers, we are informed, with an obviously designed
precision, that Hamlet is exactly thirty years of age, a statement
at variance with the f-pirit, if not the letter, of the passages just
quoted.

It is difficult even to conjecture a cause for this inconsistency,
the more remarkable that it does not exist in the quarto of 1G03,
where the gravedigger dates the defeat of the elder Fortinbras as
happening " a dozen yeare " back instead of " thirty," and where
much less is said about Hamlet's youthfulness ; perhaps the
change was designed to suit the appearance and age of some
individual actor, or intended to recall some event which had
happened thirty years before the date of a particular represent? -
tion, — " I have been sexton here, man and boy, thirty yea' o,"
would come very effectively on an anniversary occasion from the
lips of an old popular favourite. But, explain it as one may, the
inconsistency exists, and I should prefer to reconcile it by believ-

2 G

! M

\ \

4?!

r c ►'

) m

•K

!!i

i !^

i i'l:

386

APPENDIX.

ing the " thirty " a reckless error, than wrong so many other pass-
ages in accepting it as right. In all probability Hamlet was not
much more than twenty years of age, nor the Queen, his mother,
still attractive though a matron, much more than double the age
of her only son.]

' I do not think that Hamlet was a fat man ; — " fat and scant
of breath" means out of condition, whicl he might well be when
undergoing such troubles. The Queen would hardly have said
"he's fat," if his corpulency had been evident and notorious.
Ophelia, moreover, speaks of his " unmatched form." '

[Some authors believe that the expression "fat and scant of
breath " was allusive to the stoutness of Richard Burbage, the
original actor of the part of Hamlet — on the principle of making
a virtue of necessity — as if to declare it essential in the drama
that the prince should be of ponderous figure.* I think the other
a sounder view : Hamlet was not corpulent, though perhaps in-
clined that way ; he was merely out of condition. As he says
himself — " I have of late . . . forgone all custom of exercises."
Against this, however, may be quoted another of his own
sayings — " Since he [Laertes] went into France, I have been in
continual practice [in fencing] ; " along with the King's assertion
to Laertes — " Sir, this report of his did Hamlet so envenom
with his envy that he could nothing do but wish and beg your
sudden coming o'er to play with him." We have here, I
believe, another of the poet's occasional oversights ; for the
statements are incompatible, unless one suppose the former of
them a mere invention to deceive the traitorous friends. But,
besides that Hamlet's speech on that occasion bears the stamp of
truthfulness, it is far more likely that a man, really melancholy,
and fictitiously mad, should refrain from such an exercise as fenc-
ing, than practice it incessantly, at the risk of attracting remark.]

' Why should Laertes persevere in his base revenge after
accepting Hamlet's explanation % He acts as the Indian savages
* See " Hamlet " — Clarendon Press Series, 1872. Notes, p. 271.

iililll

II . i;

REMARKS ON HAMLET.

387

y other pass-
inlet Avas not
, his mother,
)uble the age

fat and scant
well be when
lly have said
id notorious.

and scant of
Burbage, the
)le of making
in the drama
link the other
li perhaps in-
As he says
of exercises."
of his own
have been in
ng's assertion
so envenom
and beg your
lave here, I
its ; for the
he former of
riends. But,
the stamp of
melancholy,
Tcise as fenc-
ing remark.]

evenge after
idian savages

p. 271.

do — blood for blood ; without regarding whether the slain got
his death foully, fairly, accidentally, or by his own deed, as when
one rushes against the levelled spear of another.'

[The play of Hamlet belongs in a manner to two epochs — to
the rough times of' coarse carousal, and single-handed duels
between monarchs for disputed territories, as well as to the more
polished and educated period of universities and Parisian fencing-
masters ; though, on examination, it will be found that the latter
idea immen.. ly ominates, — that whi':^ *h° mere setting of the
play is pa: . „ anti' its whole action bi/ .igs to a period little,
if at all, antecedent to the era of the poet himself. The former
idea, indeed, has little prevalence (apart from the known relation of
the drama to the ancient Scandinavian story), except in the par-
ticulars already mentioned, and in the reference to recent defeats
of England by the Danish arms, entailing homage and annual
tribute from the vanquished power — a state of things only his-
torically conceivable as existent in the remote past.

But, on the other side, we are overwhelmed with proofs of
Shakespeare's intention to lay his action in modern times. Ham-
let and Horatio are students at a German university ; Laertes
repairs to Paris for instruction in polite accomplishments ; King
Claudius is guarded by " Switzers," and wages war by means of
" brazen cannon," while kettle-drums and trumpets and ordnance-
salvos enliven his festivities. Prince Hamlet's every-day cos-
tume of doublet, hat, stockings, and garters, has little in common
with the dress of the ancient Danes, any more than his delicate
" rapier " resembles their ponderous spears and battle-axes. The
classics are freely referred to ; lawyers with their quiddities,
quillets, cases, tenures, and tricks, are familiarly spoken of, and
specimens of their handiwork, in the matter of treaties and royal
missions, are offered to us ; we even find " crowner's quest law "
in full and beautiful existence. Pictures are suspended on the
" arras "-covered walls ; miniatures adorn the courtier's neck, and
" tablets" hang at his girdle. And, if all this were not enough
to fix the period, we are given, in Osric, the elaborate portrait of
a euphuising Elizabethan exquisite ; while the " players " form

388

APPENDIX.

< ' ^

■'I

the very " abstract and brief chronicle of the time " in which
Shakespeare lived and wrote.

Strange is it that, in spite of such weight of reason for treat-
ing *' Hamlet" as a Renaissance story, one should constantly s(!e
stage-managers oscillating in their treatment of it between eras
removed from each other by some five or six centuries ; present-
ing us, for example, with a portrait of old King Hamlet as a
semi-savage (as if full-length oil-pictures belonged to the days
of Sweyn or Canute), though in his ghost-hood he always
appears as a plate-armoured knight, equipped for a Tudor tourna-
ment. But the final scene is the great triumph of unreason,
when we behold Hamlet and Laertes, in fancy dresses, fighting a
duel with foils, seconded by Osric and his fellow-courtiers in
doublets and trunk-hose, and regarded from on high by royalties
in Oriental garments ; while the whole takes place in a vast, cavern-
ous, Stonehenge-like hall, decorated with semi-mythical Danish
symbols and devices — dragons, vulture-wings, land-ravager-han-
ners, battle-axes, black ravens, and the like ; the background
being crowded with the figures of barbaric guards, evidently fresh
returned from coercing Ethelred the Unready, or some such Saxon
potentate of bygone days.

Nay, far more surprising, one discovers even in the writings
of so able and judicious a critic as Mr. Knight such a passage as
this, which I take leave to quote : — " That Shakspere adopted
the period of the action as related by Saxo Grammaticus tho^ i
can be no doubt. The following passage is decisive : —

' And, England, if my love thou hold'st at ought,
(As my great power thereof may give thee sense ;
Since yet thy cicatrice looks raw and red
After the Danish sword, and thy free awo
Pays homage to us ) thou may'st not coldly set
Our sovereign process.' " ^

We have here a distinct intimation of the period before the Norman
Conquest, when England was either under the sovereignty of the
Northmen, as in the time of Canute, or paid tribute to the

P i

REMARKS ON I AMLET.

389

Dunisli power." — (Pictorial Edition of Shahpere. Introductory
Notice to Hamlet, p. 97 ; Tragedies, vol. i.)

Surely, where anachronism cannot be avoided, it is Ivetter to
choose the course which leads to a few violations of historic fact,
and a very few of historic probability (neither of a description
much affecting the intellectual value of the play), than to choose
that which positively turns the world up^^le down ; which defaces
Shakespeare's noblest work with an absurdity as great in kind,
and nearly so in degree, as if one transferred its action to
Ashanti-land and brought Hamlet naked on the stage! This
is not a historical play, like "Julius Caesar" or " Coriolanus,"
where scene and date are unmistakably prescribed; nor does
it resemble such works of fancy as " The Winter's Tale " or " A
Midsummer Night's Dream," where anachronisms seem purposely
introduced ; it is a drama of complex thought and feeling, one
specially marked as belonging to a cultivated and artificial Euro-
pean epoch, clearly unassignable to any earlier centuries than
those which witnessed the revival of classic literature and art.

I cannot doubt, therefore, that the play ough*^. to be treated,
in every respect, as one relating to sixteenth-century times, and to
English manners of the Elizabethan date ; with just such slight
admixture of Danish accessories, and occasional indications of
want of refinement, as may give it a tinge of that typical Northern
and Scandinavian quality which the subjert, and the nearly-
buried foundation idea, of the drama, seem in some small measure
to demand.

— In the conduct of Laertes we may certainly discover those
savage impulses which at all periods have prompted men to deeds
of blood, wherein vengeance was more thought of than justice,
but I find in him far less of the barbarian acting under rude but
definite laws of retaliation, than of the corrupt and conscience-
less Italian homicide of the Borgia type, — his base dissimulation
and fiendish readiness to resort to poisoned weapons evidencing
a much lower moral status than that of the ordinary Red Indian
warrior.

One of the marvels of S'lakespeare's art is his power of

I il

i'P

III

300

APPENDIX.

imbuing tho mind with certain notions in regard to his cliarac-
ters by indirect and scarcely discernible processes ; partly, some-
times, by a subtle juxtaposition of ideas. Pleasing or unpleasing
associations environ each character, and form the atmosphere
within which it dwells, moving, as it were, either amidst music
and fragrant odours, or among foul exhalations and discordant
j anglings.

In the case of Laertes we are nowhere directly called upon,
till near the closi^ j icene, to vieAV him as anything but a brave,
honourable, and noble young man. He is singidarly skilled in
manly exercises, high in favour with the sovereign, affectionately
regarded by his father nnd his sister, and so esteemed l^y the
people that a largo section of them are ready to accept him for
their king and leader ; yet, from the beginning, a light shadow
rests upon him, and we are not entirely surprised at the revela-
tion of his innate worthlessness. I

On his first appearance he ungraciously schools his gentle
sister, and receives from her a mild but significant rebuke ; and,
immediately afterwards, his father also addresses him in language
of reproof — " Yet here, Laertes ! aboard, aboard for shame ! "
slightly suggesting that the son frequently erred on the score of
punctuality. Moreover, the counsels given to him, ending so
emphatically with a caution against being " false to any man,"
rather imply that those particular counsels had reference to par-
ticular faults in tho young man's character. In a little while
we find his morbidly subtle father devising schemes to watch
his conduct at Paris, plainly indicating that he was not quite
trusted at home. Would any father have cared so to spy on
Horatio ?

His next appearance is in the character of a hot-headed rebel,
relegated to contempt by the contrast between his blustering rant
and the King's masterly coolness. We then discover him not
only Avilling to enter upon the treacherous revenge suggested by
another, but prepared for deeds of treachery in general, by the
possession of the deadly unctior. he had bought from the mounte-
bank. At the burial scene, a|.^ain, even if we had not (then and

REMARKS ON HAMLET.

391

3 his clmrac-
)artly, somo-
r unpleasing
atmosphere
midst music
I discordant

called upon,
but a brave,
ly skilled in
iFectionatcly
med ^Y the
lept him for
ight shadow
the revela-

s his gentle
ebukf» ; and,
in language
or shame ! "
the score of
1, ending s-o
) any man,"
ence to par-
little while
Bs to Avatch
IS not quite
) to spy on

eaded rebel,
istering rant
,^er him not
uggested by
oral, by the
the mounte-
tt (then and

previously) surmised some affectation in his grief, we at once dis-
cover it in the light of Hamlet's remarks, none the less effectively
sarcastic because they " lack form a little."

Everywhere, in short, Laertes is mistrusted, blamed, despised,
or overcrowed by some one, in spite of all his superficial bravery.
His lion-skin is for ever blowing back, and affording glimpses of
the carrion wolf beneath it.

Ere leaving Laertes another observation suggests itself — an
important and typical one ; — The spectator or reader of a drama
should never forget that information derived from the characters
in the play is not necessarily trustworthy information. People
forget this, and they also forget that each character can have but
a limited knowledge in regard to the action of the drama of which
it constitutes a part. In discussing the revenge of Laertes, one is
apt to overlook a circumstance which slightly counts in his favour
— that the hot-headed young man knew nothing as to the manner
of his father's death save what the King told him. What that was
we do not learn, but there is a significant hint that no true version
of the affair met the ear of Polonius's son, in the words spoken by
the King at the beginning of Act iv. 7 : — " Now must grim
conscience my acquittal seal . . . sith you have heard . . . that
he which hath your noble father slain jmrsued my life." Whatever
might be Hamlet's real or presumed designs, he had certainly
neither pursued his uncle's life nor even threatened it.

In the quarto of 1603 it is the King that suggests and pro-
vides the poisoned unction. Tlie alteration in the folio plainly
enough denotes Shakespeare's intention to discredit Laertes.]

' I cannot understand Hamlet's behaviour to Ophelia. His
son'ow at giving up her love seems real even to distraction, yet a
short while afterwards he affronts her with obscene jests in pre-
sence of all the court. And then at her funeral, poor innocent ! his
extravagant violence is disgusting, and insulting to her memory,
without any object that can be seen.

Was Ophelia spotless ] I think so, though her songs seem to
allude to seduction by Hamlet. Ophelia's mind being strained

809

appp:ndix

if f M •

by grief at her lover's conduct, is siuMenly overthrown by the
suiieradded misery of her father's death. Her thoughts dwelling
at the time chieHy on disappointed love, she harps on that themo
in her madness, and she, the most modest and channing of
maidens, sings coarse songs which she has gathered in her child-
liood from the lips of sonu^ rihald nurse, such a one as the gross-
minded beldame in " Komeo and Juliet." How courtly the Lord
Chaniberhiin's daughter always is ! For instance, speaking of
lierself she says — " And 1 of ladit's most deject and wretched," —
not, of tvomen.^

[Notwithstanding the opinions held by certain German com-
mentators, 1 have no doubt whatever that Ophelia was spotless.
It cannot bo denied that she Avas considered so by the characters
in the play itself, — although, besides the songs of her real mad-
ness, various remarks of Handet, in his assumed madness, to her
and to her father, as wA\ as the counsels and reproofs she re-
ceived from Polonius and Laertes, tend to throw suspicion on her
purity, — for not only do the priests, who grudge her all they
dare, allow her at her burial " her virgin crants" and her " maiden
strewmcnts," but Laertes at the same time bears similar testimony,
and, anxious as lie is to make the worst of Handet's oflences,
only lays to his charge — " a sister driven into desperate terms."
Perhaps the contrast is specially designed, that, whereas Hamlet's
real or fictitious madness is chiefly an exaggeration of his im-
pulses, Ophelia's madness largely presents the fiat opposite of her
tendencies and nature.

For Hamlet's conduct on the occasions referred to there were
both his own motives and the dramatist's separate reasons. His
odious jesting (less odious in those coarser days than it would
now seem, but doubtless out of place even then, — and, be it
remarked, more foully gross in one passage than commentators
seem to have discovered, judguig by their far-fetched interpreta-
tions) was prompted by the mental excitement of a crisis, an
excitement which, so far from controlling, he purposely gave M'ay
to and exaggerated. This explanation, with some adjustment,
meets the case of the rude sarcasms at the interview scene, as to

REMARKS ON HAMLET.

39a

wlilch I fully agree with those writers who believe ITiiinlet to
have become suddenly aware of the prcHcnce i>f the King and
Polonius. Not only is this view probable in itself, l)ut it accords
with the ancient story, wherein the i>rinco is made aware of con-
cealed enemies by a most curious device, — one of Ids friends
setting loose in his direction a large fly, with straw tied to its
feet, which serves as a warning at a very dangerous moment,
when feigned insanity is about to yield to the teni}»tation8 of love.

The dramatist may have had a subtle reason for Hamlet's
olTensive jesting with Ophelia — namely, to d«'monstrate that she
w;;a fr<'0 from evil in regard to lier lover ; for had it been other-
wise, not even Ilandet would have venture(' on such hazari^jus
subjects. Perhaps that astute prince is to bo understood as de-
signedly jesting so broadly, in order to suggest his inn'>cence of
wrong to Ophelia, as well as to indicate madness by xn ostenta-
tious change from his former manner in her society.

I can trace no sign of " a most pure and moral nature " , n
Hamlet ; on the contrary, even in his exhortations to the Queen,
a coarse imagination exhibits itself at every turn. L'i.; Hamlet
draw his " lovely, pure, and most moral nature " froi.i his strong-
headed father, he of the " foul crimes done in the days of nature;"
or from that " most seeming virtuous queen," his mother 1 Or
did it pass to him from some ancestor whose virtues had also
enriched his uncle, the "king of shreds and patcht ;," "a mur-
derer and a villain 1" Aquilai non generant columbas.]

' Why was Ophelia treated as a suicide, when the cause of
her death — the breaking of a willow bough — was so perfectly
well known 1 All of a piece with that barbarous theology which
places a man's salvation rather in somv > ■■- ivard act than in the
state of his heart.'

[I should wonder at myself for asking such a question, did I
not know that hundreds of readers may have felt the same diffi-
culty. AVho says that OpheLa did not commit suicide? Who
but that soft falsehood-monger the maudlin Queen ! And, as if
to show herself in her true colours as an arrant fabricator, siio

394

APPENDIX.

fMuiW' 'i

I'd' I f y

i ''

tells the story of the maiden's death with such gaudy accumula-
tion of picturesque details, impossible for her to have known of,
that one is not surprised to find commentators terming the elabo-
rate little speech rather poetical than dramatic. It was not
meant to be dramatic (save as an exposition of Queen Gertrude's
character) : in confirmation of which view one finds that Shake-
speare's matured text is a great expansion of the corresponding
passage in the 1603 quarto; the minute catalogue of the flowers,
with the coarse parenthetical allusion, being added for the evident
purpose of marking the nature of the passage.

The priests speak of Ophelia's death as " doubtful," to salve
their consciences, but the gravediggers assume it as notorious that
thera was no doubt Avhatever in the matter. But how strange
an exposition of the ideas of those times, to assign moral respon-
sibility to an insane person, and reckon that the Almighty would
condemn her soul, because of a deed occasioned by His own act
in delivering her mind to madness !]

' The Queen, with feminine deceit, conceals her son's secret
by a double lie — the second part gratuitous: 1st, He is mad:
2d, He weeps over slain Polonius.'

[Several false notions would never have arisen had the appa-
rently subordinate character of the Queen been closely studied ;
both her position and her nature bearing importantly on some of
the leading personages of the drama. In the ancient story she
is the heiress of the sovereignty of Denmark, her huBbands de-
riving rank chiefly through her ; and though (as we have seen)
Shakespeare does not entirely adopt this view of her position,
sonje remembrance of it seems, perhaps unconsciously, to have
influenced his mind, judging by certain indications furnished
by King Claudius and Polonius. The former not only speaks of
his consort as " the imperial jointress to this warlike state," words
implying something more than a dignity derived from her hus-
band, but he shows a deference to her, especially with regard to
Hamlet, which springs from stronger considerations than mere
conjugal love. The latter displays towards the Queen not only

.1 li

REMARKS ON HAMLET.

395

dy acciimula-
ive known of,
ing the elabo-
It was not
en Gertrude's
s that Shake-
3orresponding
)f the flowers,
or the evident

tful," to salve
notorious that
i how strange
moral respon-
mighty would
|r His own act

r son's secret
He is mad:

had the appa-

)sely studied ;

ily on some of

lent story she

husbands de-

ve have seen)

her position,

usly, to have

ons furnished

jnly speaks of

state," words

Prom her hus-

ith regard to

IS than mere

leen not only

the obsequious loyalty of a good courtier, but also a respectfully
affectionate familiarity that seems grounded on old and intimate
association with one who had long been possessed of independent
importance. There is something in his manner which suggests
the almost parental and filial relationship between a veteran
statesman and the female sovereign to whose youth and inexpe-
rience he had been the beloved and faithful adviser, a relation-
ship which could scarcely have existed unless formed previously
to her marriage with King Hamlet. For example —

Pol. — ..." What miglit you [King Claudius]

Or ray dear majesty, your queen here, think ? "

And mark the familiarity of this private conversation with the
Queen — a mature matron, be it remembered :

Pol. — " He will come straight. Look you lay home to him :
Tell him his pranks have been too broad to bear witli,
And that your grace hath screened and stood between
Much heat and him. I'll 'sconce me even here.
Pray you be round with him

Queen. — I'll warrant you. Fear me not."

In the same direction tends the Queen's reproof of tiie garrulous
old man's prolixity — " More matter with less art." Words so
ungracious would hardly have been used unless some playfulness
of manner neutralised their harshness : may not we fancy them
spoken with an air of condescending affection, as of one saying —
Incorrigible ! shall I never teach you the limits of my patience ?
Assuming then that the Queen possessed an inherent dignity
quite apart from the rank derivable from her royal husband, we
shall understand why her importance in the state is greater than
otherwise seems reasonable ; we shall comprehend how Claudius,
in gaining her hand, easily supplants a nephew so beloved by the
populace that they would not have allowed him to be defrauded
of a succession naturally devolving on him, and we see more fully
the source of the influence through which she so long shielded
Hamlet from her husband's unscrupulous jealousy.

.!!;i4

]i"'

396

APPENDIX.

But her cliaracter is what immediately concerns us ; first, as
helping us to estimate that of her son, who may be supposed to
draw much of his nature from his mother ; secondly, as exi)lahi-
ing several perplexities in the drama. Laxity of moral, and pro-
bably of bodily, fibre, is her chief characteristic. She is eminently
passive, her soul is a stagnant pool to mirror angels or devils in,
to receive into its bosom anything heavy enough to sink, whether
gold or dross. Kind-hearted she is, in an easy sort of way ; it is
less trouble than to be malevolent. She would "hang on" her
first husband in gloating aflfection, and yet, " within a month,"
she is won to the same affection for another : " Frailty, thy name
is woman," is a true saying, indeed, as applied to her.

Weakness, in one form or other, seems always her attribute.
" Conceit in weakest bodies strongest works," — exclaims the
kingly ghost, in commending her to Hamlet's pity. " So loving
to my mother," says Hamlet of his father, " that he might not
beteem the winds of heaven visit her face too roughly," — slightly
implying that she was one of those fimcifully delicate creatures
who require and exact luxurious care. " The Queen, his mother,
lives almost by his looks : " — commendable maternal love, but the
l>hrase suggests some weakness. There is little significance, per-
haps, in any one of these passages, but in combination they help
to form the moral atmosphere with which Shakespeare has sur-
rounded this erring queen.

But if one quality more than another belongs to such lax-
minded harlot -hearted women, that quality is untruthfulness.
Truth looks cold and hard, lying s(!ems soft and kindly ; each
truth must have its outline, lies have none, but pour from
the sinewless soul like milk from an overturned bucket. Then
a truth is apt to be plain and uninviting, while a lie may be m;ide
sumptuously l)eautiful in an accursed kind of beauty ; and the
flaccid steamy soul loves what it thinks pretty, and likes to hunt
for a}»iM((bation by ofi'ering it to others. And, in course of time,
these souls can only live on lies — as an ancient opium-eater solely
lives on opium, — falsehood becomes truth to them : and so they
at length become truthful in an inverted fashion, — for they

':''i

REMARKS ON HAMLET.

397

untruthfulness.

entirely renounce truth, which from lips like theirs would be
nothing but the most specious sort of lie.

Such people are the great myth-makers. No sooner is a fact
brought tf their minds than it is served like a beggar-child new
adopted by a king, washed and combed and brushed, and tricked
out in gorgeous apparel ; then to them it becomes a recognisable
reality, and may be complacently presented to the notice of the
general world.

Such was the process to which we are indebted for the charm-
ing description of poor Ophelia's rash plunge into the river. The
suicidal act was real, all the rest w;is mere imagination, or fiction
founded on the barest fact. And mark how characteristic of such
a narrator — in the very midst of her dulcet p oetisings she cannot
refrain from uttering one of the iriipure reminiscences with which
her mind is loaded.

Not dissimilar is the case of Hamlet's tears over Polonius.
Even so distinguished a critic as Lamb falls into the trap pre-
pared and baited by this queen's deceitfulness, writing thus mis-
takenly (as it seems to me) : — " The conference ended. And now
Hamlet was at leisure to consider who it was that he had killed :
and when he came to see that it was Polonius, the father of the
lady Ophelia whom he so dearly loved, he drew apart the dead
body, and, hi.s spirits being now a little quieter, he wept for what
he had done." — {Tales from Shakespeare.)

Shakespeare's vei'sion of the matter is scarcely so touching.
Hamlet — at the beginning, not at the end of the conference —
discovers whom he has slain, and half anathematises him as a
" wretched, rash, intruding fool," with a good deal more hard
language. Towards the close of the scene he certainly expresses
himself more humanely : — " For this same lord [Polonius] I do
repent : but heaven hath pleased it so, to punish me with this
and this with me : " — but a few lines farther on he drops the dig-
nified tone he had adopttsd while denouncing the Queen, falls into
congenial sarcasm, and concludes a most sane and sagacious speech
by brutally exclaiming, in regard to the body of Polonius, — " I'll
lug the guts into the neighbour room. Mothtn-, good night. In-

';■■

r .r

i'.^^-

K'^ '

M i

^'^1

398

APPENDIX.

deed this counsellor is now most still, most secret, and most
grave, who was in life a foolish, prating knave." He then drags
off the corpse, with the unfeeling apostrophe — " Come, sir, to
draw toward an end with you."

Now, hearken to her majesty, — " fair, sober, wise :" —

King. — " Where is he gone ?
Queen. — To draw apart the body he hath killed :

O'er whom his very madness, like some ore

Among a mineral of metals base

Shows itself pvire ; he weeps for what is done."

Is not this of a piece, and of precisely equal value, with the
florid little speech made by the same veracious lady at the burial
scene, when, seeking to deprecate the wrath of Laertes ] —

" This IS mere madness :
And thus awhile the fit will work on him ;
Anon, as patient as the female dove,
When that her golden couplets are disclosed,
His silence will sit drooping."

Melancholy, no doubt, formed part of Hamlet's disposition,
but there was nothing dove-like in any corner of his nature.
Hear the last cooings of this dove over the " good old man" he
has so lately slain : —

Kinfj. — "Now, Hamlet, where is Polonius] Hamlet. — At
supper. King. — At supper! Where 1 Hamlet. — Not where
he eats, but where he is eaten ! a certain politic convocation
of worms are e'en at him .... if you find him not within
this month you shall nose him as you go up the stairs into the
lobby." So much for Hamlet's tears over the father of the lady
Ophelia.

From the unprincipled, feeble, deceitful, luxurious Queen,
Hamlet derives his selfishness and unscrupulous subtlety, also his
weakness of will and general inertness, probably also a certain
lymphatic softness of body and sensitiveness of nerve. From his
father the King, he derives the wild, herserker violence of tempera-
ment that underlies his polished exterior ; from him likewise are

REMARKS ON HAMLET.

399

ret, and most

He then drags

Come, sir, to

ise : —

d:
ne ore

; is done."

lvalue, witli tlio
ly at the burial
ertes 1 —

>ed,

it's disposition,

of his nature.

i old man" he

Hamlet. — At

— Not where

ic convocation

im not within

stairs into the

her of the lady

:urious Queen,
ibtlety, also his
also a certain
•ve. From his
ice of tempera-
ni likewise are

inherited the courage and aptitude for manly exercises that so
greatly distinguish him. But, for his wit, intellect, brooding
imagination, and refined studiousness, we must search further
back, — possibly to his unrecorded paternal grandfather, for the
able though villanous uncle has in several of these respects
something in common with the able but fairly honourable
nephew,]

' King Claudius appears to possess craft, ability, and some
share of majesty. Probably the former king had too much used
with his wife that " eye like Mars to threaten and command,"
while his brother wooed her with gentleness, and that indescrib-
able art by which some deep minds can lead others to their will
almost without the utterance of a word.'

[Hamlet says that his father was " so loving " to his mother
" that he might not beteem the winds of heaven visit her face too
roughly ; " but (besid^js making allowance for a son's natural
partiality in the case of a " dear father " deceased), one must
admit that a hardy warrioi' — " full of bread, with all his crimes
broad blown, as flush as May " — might have mingled roughness
with his caresses, and made even his well-meant carefulness dis-
tasteful to a sensitive woman, by displaying it in a dictatorial,
half contemptuous way. Claudius, on the other hand, could
" smile and smile," although a villain, and from him she met with
sympathy and deference as well as love : " with witchcraft of his
wit, with traitorous gifts," he won that " most seeming virtuous
queen." So says the injured husband himself, and it is only
reasonable to conclude that, to the Queen's eyes, her first consort
was deficient in other respects than these, in which his rival
admittedly surpassed him.

Claudius is very commonly regarded as a mean contemptible
wretch in mind and body, as well as a treacherous murderous
villain, but there is no warrant for such a notion, except in
the assertions of the two Hamlets, who could not but exaggerate
his defects and ignore his merits. Polonius, Laertes, the various
envoys and courtiers, the sovereigns of England and Norway, all

|::

:a .■■mm

!f si I ■

■I

|f:l

ti Hi

^9 :ii

400

APPENDIX.

treat him with a fulness of general respect which an utterly des-
picable being would hardly have commanded, notwithstanding
his exalted position ; and his various kingly qualities are suffi-
ciently evident to any careful readei of the i)lay.

In the quarto of 1G03 there are two significant differences,
where Hamlet points the contrast between the royal brothers.
His fiither he describes as possessing —

*' A front wherein all vcrtnes are set downe
For to adorne a king, and guild liis crowne : "

while of his uncle he says —

'• Looke you now, here is your husband.
With a face like Vulcan.
A looke fit for a murder and a rape,
A dull dead hanging iooke, and a hell-bred cie,
To affright children and amaze the world.
A ! have you eyes ? "

In the matured drama nothing is said in regard to the older
Hamlet's " vertue," but merely —

" A combination and a form indeed.
Where every god did seem to get his seal
To give the world assurance of a man : "

And, instead of the detailed condemnation of the usurper's per-
sonal appearance, we have only such generalised phrases as this —

" Here is your husband ; like a mildew'd ear,
l»lastiiig his wholesome brother ....
IIii ! have you eyes ? "]

' I do not think that Polonius was meant to be altogether
contemptible. His children both loved and respected him, and
the people appear to have done so likewise. Nothing could be
more wise and excellent than his counsels to his son.'

[This view is now so generally accepted that arguments in
its support are needless. It should be remembered that the

REMARKS ON ITAMLET.

401

vetor.an statesman must not be solely judged of as ho appears
wlien presented to us in the decay of his faculties, and assuredly
not as when held up to scorn and ridicule by his bitter t.vimy
young Handet. I have somewhere met with the just remark
that King Claudius probably owed his quiet accession to the
throne to the exertions of Polonius, — whose influence with the
populace was evidently considerable. (See the King's speech to
Laertes, (Act i., 2.) — " The head is not more native to the heart
. . . than is the throne of Denmark to thy father.") Hence
Hamlet's enmity to the old lord, and his early conviction that
Ophelia must be given up, as too dangerous on account of her
hostile surroundings.]

I'i'i
/liii.

I '

,rd to the older

' Hamlet seems hardly accurate in speaking of the grave as
the '■ undiscovered country from whose bourn no traveller
returns," seeing that his father's ghost had returned thence to
him and revealed some of the secrets of the other world.'

[The contradiction is perhaps more apparent than real. No
man who quits this world as a traveller to the world beyond the
grave, ever returns to resume his former place ; the hopelessness
of return, not the " undiscovered " nature of the country, being
the subject of that particular sentence. But, indeed, so much
confusion has always prevailed in regard to the clear sei)aration
of the distinct ideas of body and of spirit, that Hamlet may have
been merely speaking conventionally of the utter annulment of
physical existence that accompanies death, while perfectly re-
cognising the continued and active life of the spiritual part of

man,

No one more believes in the immortality of the soul than a
Scottish Presbyterian, who moreover fully anticipates a resurrec-
tion of the body, yet among the sixty-seven " Paraphrases of
Scripture," — which with the " Psaims of David," and five
" Hymns," have for generations formed the only authorised
hymnal for the Established Church of Scothuid, — occurs such a
verse as this : —

2 I)

■ !i
I'

, I'

■ V ■
( ii

h \i^

402

APPENDIX.

,1- f

" Milt iiiiiu foi'siikcs this ciirtlily .scene,
Ah ! never to I'etiini :
Shall any following spring revive
The ashes of the urii ?" — I'(irit]>Jinisr, viii. 0.

Or, as Ave luive it in aiu^thor paraphrase : —

" In the cold grave, to which we ha.stc,
There are no acts of pardon ]mnt :
But fi.x'd the doom of all remains,
And everlasting silence ivigna." —Pa raj)hrnsi; xv. (i.

On this suhjoct I have recently met with a very curiou.s
passage in an interesting book, entitled CaJUnui, or the M'lsuhuj
Link, by Daniel Wilson, LL.D., ann. 1873 — where, after (pioting
from an ancient Scottish l)allad, in which three young men an^
represented as returning from Paradise to vi.sit their sorrowful
mother, but hastening away at daybreak according to the custom
of such visitants, the Avriter expresses himself as follows : — " In
the confusion of ideas as shown in the birch gathered at the gates
of Paradise, the penance dreaded in case of their absence being
discovered, and the chiding of the grave's channering, or fretting
worm, [ — " The cock doth craw, tlu; day doth daw, the channer-
ing worm doth chide " — ] there are striking illustrations of tlie
undefined blending of conceptions of an immaterial existence wholly
apart from the body, with the difficulty, as common to the mind
of the English peasant as that of the Australian savage, of con-
ceiving any clear realisation of the disembodied spirit, or of death
distinct from the-* wormy grave.'" — {Citlihun, p. 150.)

Few things are more perplexing to the educated mind than
the uneducated mind's incapability of reason. In the above case,
however, an, at least rafional, explanation of the apj^arent confusion
is possible ; — a too earthly spirit might be thought of, as being
so bound for a while by semi-material links to its former body,
that it would be conscious of whatever affected the decaying
tenement, though no longer dwelling within it, and woidd find
itself unable to escape from bondage till set free by tlu; special
act of Heaven. This notion has been recently held by certain
spiritualistic writers.]

I m

HEMARKS ON MACnETII.

403

viii. 0.

•nsr, XV. ti.

a very curious
or the MisstiKj
(, after (juotiuy
young men are
;heir sorrowful
; to the custom
follows :— " In
•ed at the gates
absence being
■ing, or fretting
V, the channer-
trations of the
xistence wholly
on to the mind
savage, of cou-
nt, or of death
50.)

ted mind thau
the above case,
arent confusion
lit of, as being
ts former body,
the decaying
nd would find
by the speci;d
lold by certain

KEMAKKS ON "MACnETH."

Sepfcmher l.s7. — When reading "Macbeth" among the IWky
Mountains, thoughts were j)resent to my mind which long after-
wards shaptid themselves into the following utterances,* — as ex-
|-ress»Hl in a letter to the Srofsiiinn, on tlm occasion of the first
visit to Edinburgh of those abb; Shakes})earean actors, llerr and
IMrs. Eandmann, and now extracted thence with such omissions
and alterations as their present situation seems to recpiire,

* The vulgar notion regarding Macbeth and his queen is simply
that the former was a murderous villain, ami the latter a furious,
dial)olical termagant. It were needless to enlarge on the absurdity
of such a view. . . . Macbeth is no common assassin, but rather
a man of an originally noble and hi hly imaginative nature.
We see the first entrance of evil, we follow its progress, we watch
the gradual effacement of Heaven's image, cv until the final
ruin ; but amidst all our hatred of the crime — nay, contempt
for the hypocrisies — of the tyrant, we are able to feel that he is
human, we sorrow for the victim of hellish arts, we pity him as
he cries, grief o'erladen, —

" I have lived long enough ; mj' way of life
Is fallen into the sear and yellow leaf ; "

or when, with a forlornness so absolute, he receives the news of
the death of his ever-faithful wife.

And she, that marvellous, lurid queen, she is no coarse virago
— Would a blustering Eve have much prevailed on Adam at the
Paradisal tree ? — but a loving, loveable woman ; one who can
say — " How tender 'tis to love the babe that milks me " — (How
did she lose her babes 1 — by some soul-maddening destruction 1) ;
one whose desperate daring in a single great sin never alters her
husband's affection and respect — [e.t/. "Be innocent of the know-
ledge, dearest chuck "] : no Eegan or Goneril is she, but one of

* How far these ideas were original, how far suggested by a magazine article
read by me about that time, I cannot now determine.

i ■ ;-*.

.' I

401

Al'l'KNDIX.

" little liiimls," dt'lioatc of fnuno, alt<)j,'t'tli('r fcininiiio. How
otiit'i w isc woiiltl her wliolti l»riiig have; so collapsed? Slie is a
pytlmiit'sss i)t).s,s('ssc(l l»y the tleiiion ; utterances of inon^ than
iiKMiul power proceed fi-om this temple of the gods; then, torn
and shatteicd by the included force, the frail fabric sinks into
irrepara1)le ruins. (This idea of Lady Maclu'th I think to be cer-
taiidy the true one. ]\Ialcolni's "fiendish (|ueen" goes for litth).
It is the speech of an enemy who coidd know nothing of her
secret history, and it occurs in one of those passages whose, in-
feriority and many contradictions mark them as belonging to
those believed to h;vv<' been added by the hand of Middh^on.)

... To specify particular scenes : nothing can surpass that
where Macbt'th, Avavcring for a moment, is forced by her inspi-
rations to rush on his fate —

*' Was the hope ilniiik wherein you dressed yourself?
Jliitli it slept since ?"

or that where she stands so bravely by her husband when Ban-
quo's a])parition unnerves him ; or, chief of all, that grandest
scene of troubled sleep-walking, just civ. the poor heartbroken
lady sinks into that sleep which knows no unrest ; — "Macbeth
doth murder sleep," and sleep hath murdered Macbeth's queen.

... To interprtit the great ])oet is no easier than to e.\-
jdore the deej)est mysteries of life and nature — a search which
each man will make Avith ditferiMit lights iind different powt-rs,
thus arriving at correspondingly difTercnt coiu;lusions, . . . But
let all who may take part in the acting of this drama seriously
consider the res]>on8ibiliiy of their work; those filling even the
most sul»ordinate places, reflecting how much depends on their
caie and intelligence, and renlhiiKj to themselves the scenes they
appear in, — those acting the ^^'itches recollecting that they are for
the time grim emissaries of the Evil One, grotestjue in sin's \ivo-
\niY ugliness -as the liya^ci chuckling over his prey, — but by no
means idiotical, buffoonish jigmakers ; above all, those personat-
ing kin^-s, princes, and nobles, remembering the dignity that be-
longs to such characters, the self-respectful reserve that shcidd
not be <(uite absent even in the stormiest scenes — hands and eyes

I irl't

I I-

) '

KKMARKS ON MAOP.ETir.

10.-)

olmry of quick movomcnt, diction lovcl, nt)t porciipiiwil with
cinplmHi.s. A SliakcsiM'iuH* diama is no ix-tty tish-pond to be tor-
mented with pidtry gides ; it is a smunnT ocean, long sweeping
in power-charged swell ere it break into tho intVeipiont passion
of its Avhite and surging l)illows.' — (Lottor to tho Hcotsiudii, March
28th, 1873.)

belonging to

["Take iiiiy hIiiiiic but tlmt, and my liiiii iicivi's
Shall uovi r tremble : or be iilive again
Ami (lure me ti) the desert wl . thy tuvonl ;
11' trembling I iiiiiubit then, jirute.st me
The baby of a girl."— (Aet iii. 1.)

In reference to the words — "If trembling I inhabit then," the
Editors of the Clarendon Press Series Shakespeare write as follows :
— " There are few passages of our author which have given rise to
so much discussion as this, The reading and punctiuvtion given
in our text [as cited above] are those of the first folio." Besides
varieties in ])ointing, tho alterations and interpretations of the
words "I inhabit then," are almost innumerable. "I inhabit
then,"—" I inhabit, then "— " I inhibit, then "— " I inhabit thee "
— " I unknight me "— " I evade it then "— " I inherit then "— " I
exhil)it then " — " I iidiabit here," — Ireniblhuj having sometimes
the force of a noun, sometimes of an adjective ; inhabit being
sometimes held to signify " contiiniance in a given position,"
sometimes to indicate the sense of " keep at home — abide under a
roof," as contrasted with wandering in a desert. (See " Macbeth,"
Clar. Fr. Series, p. 133.)

Amidst this conflict of opinion, I would ask Avhether the word
"inhabit" may not be used in the sense "put on — don" —
taking hahif as a term for dress, and trembling as a noun ; and
holding the ])assage to convey a metaphor similar to that of the
Scriptural phrases — " clotlud with cursing ns with a garmcit,"
" the garment of praise for the spirit of heaviness ? " Accepcing
this view, Macbeth would be understood to say — "If 1 then
put a trentbliii;/ habit on — apjiear in the guise of a trend>ler, —
declare me a weakling's weakling."]

11.1

I'll

M *l

[.,!.,■

r (

Kh; Ari'KNDIX.

i:k.m.\i;ks ox thk "Mhwciiant ov vknick."

Septemhfr I7f/i. — ' FinislH'd that iinldt' piny "Tli(> Mfrcliaiit
<»t' Vciuco." Ilatl tlifif Imm'Ii a fair tiilmiial, and aiiotlicr " st'cdiiJ
haiiit'l" to take Sliylock's pai't, I tliiiik tlic .tvw woiilil liavc ('((iiir
lu'ttcr out of it. It was nn'rc <|iii))l)liii,i^ to make him guilty ol
att('iii]>tiiij,' till' lifo of a i-itizcii. Voii do not att('iii|if a man's lilc
liy ai'ciisin^ him Itrfon* a court of justice of a capital crinu', in tho
same sense us by staltbinj,' him witli a daii^^er.

[Hatl the contract itself l)een illejfal, it would have been
ainudlecl on that account, and the .lew mij,dit havci been i)unished,
— first, foi- proni(»tinj^ a transaction contrary to law and morals, —
secondly, for attempting' a citizen's life by means of that transac-
tion. 15ut, on the contrary, the validity of the bond and the for-
mal legality of the transaction were most distiiu'tly atfirnied —
(•■ Why, this bond is forfeit ; and /mrfti/li/ by this the .Jew may
claim a pound of flesh.". — " Of a stran^'e nature is the suit you
follow, but in such rate, that the Venetian law ctinaot impugn
you." — " There is no power in Venice can alter a decree esfaliliilied.")
— and that admitted, the State elevated the contract into a minor
law, so to speak, adopted it as its own, and became responsible for
tilt! conse(piences involved in its fulfilment. There cannot but be
a legal, although not a moral, distinction, between attemi)ting a
person's life by legal or illegal practices. A man .seeks to remove
an enemy l)y tempting him into debaucheries calculated to destroy
liis existence, — is he therefore a nuirderer in the eye of the law l
A man imprisons liis debtor, well knowing that grief and shame
will shortly kill him, — is he therefori! a nnirderer in the eye of
tilt! law I A man compasses his neighl)our's death l>y falsely ac-
cusing him of a capital crime, — is even he a murderer, subject to
the gallows ] I fear not.

Another ditticulty suggests itself — Shylock had taken no de-
cisive stops to fulfil his presumed intention : he had not .shed a
drop of blood; he had talked daggeis, but used none. "Was it
not still oj)on for him to say :- -" I did but endeavour to shake

, r

IIKMAIIKS OS TIIK MKUCFIANT 01' VKXK'K.

407

'lio Mcrclmiit
>tlit'r " st'i'oiitl
lid have coiiic
liiiii f;iiilty <>l
)t a nmn'.s lite
1 Clinic, in tlio

Id hiivc l»(M'n
M't'ii pimisluMl,
iuiil nionilrt, —
■ that tnvnsivc-
d and tlus fur-
tly atHrnird —
tlu! J«'W may
, tlu^ suit you
caniiiit inii>u<,'n
•ecvalnhH-iJicil")
t into a niinor
n'sponsibk' for
■annot but be
attempting a
ks to ifniovo
itt'd to destroy
e of tli(^ law 1
iff an<l sl\anio
in tlu! eye of
l)y falsely ac-
rcr, suliji'ot to

taki'n no de-
lad not shed a
IK me. Was it
iMiur to shake

Antonio's fortitude hy carrying matters to an extremity, even
to the extent (»f trifling with the Duke himself j — I never inteniled
nny cutting of tiesh ; at the last moment I should have torn my
liond in pieces, and let the Christian go his way, schooled and
humiliated l»y the iJew he spurned?"

It may lit^ remarked as singular, that in the trial scene the
l>ond is ([Uoted as specifying — ''a pound of llesli, to ho . . cut off
nearest the luerrhtoifs heavt" — ('' Ay, his heart : so says the bond ;
— Ooth it not, nobler jt'tlge I — . . . nearent hU heart, those are
the very words. It is so :") — while, in the earlier scene, Shyhtck's
proposal merely runs thus : — " Let the forfeit he nominated for an
e(|ual pound of your fair flesh, to he cut (»ff and taken in irliaf part
of 1/(1 It r Innlij it plcast'lh mi'." May it he sup[)osed that this change
was designed by Shakespeare as a conclusive proof of the Ji'w's
malignity, and in order to exclude the plea in court — that Hcsli
could be cut from sonu; parts of a man without causing loss of life,
antl that Shylock only contemplated that minor butchery ? In
conversation, at the outset, it would have been at variance with
the Jew's friendly jesting tone, would have betrayed his j)urpose
and scared away his victim, to have u.sed other than general
l)hrases ; Avhereas the bargain once agreed to, the wording (jf tlie
l)ond was little likely to draw the attention of the careless debtor.

I have sometimes ventured to think that Shak(!speare intro-
duced tln^ words " direct or indirect " — (" If it be j)roved . . . .
that by dlrcd or indirect attempts, he seek the life of any citizen ")
— as an afterthought, feeling the weakness of the application to
Shy lock's case : the phraseology seems alien to the straightforward
bluntness to be expected in an ancient statute.

It is a noteworthy fact that in the old stories whence the plot
of this [day is thus far very dosidy taken, the trial ends with the
voidance of the bond and the forfeiture of the money to which it
ri'lated, so that Shylock's subsequent lieavy doom is an incident
franu^l l>y the great di'amatist hiiuself. AVhile considering what
reasons might have occasioned so remarkable an addition, I met
with tlu^ following passage in an essay by Mr. Watkiss Lloyd :
— " In the novel th(> -Jew's defeat turns entirelv on the matter

ii r

408

APPENDIX.

,1 i

" i

n ' f

I ?

:• J

: n

III' I

of the bloodshedding, which in itself is little hetter tli.an a quibhle ;
Sliakespearc wisely retained, and put this first to degrade the
literal principle of the Jew to the uttermost, hy exhibiting him
foiled at the weapons of his own cunning, when wielded with
simplicity and straightforwardness ; . . . but the dignity of the
moral . . . required and supplied the more substantial reference
to criminality of murderous intent." — (Singer, — Dramatic Works
of ShaJces])eare, vol. ii., j). 553.)

Of ont: thing there can be no question — that the effect of the
bcene is enormously enhanced by the addition Shakespeare has
seen fit to make. It is equally beyond question that had ho
wished to bring Shylock more legitin^' >ly within the scope of
Venetian law he could easily have done dO. The fairness or un-
fairness, therefore, of the court's proceedings must either have
seemed to the dramatist in no way material to the interest of the
play, or he must have deliberately framed them as unfair, from a
conviction that lie tlius came closest to the heart of Italian nature
at the period represented. I incline to the latter view, in which
I find valuable support in the following passage by the late Mr.
Knight : — " Nor would it have been a true picture of society in
tlie sixteenth century had the poet shown the judges of the Jew
wholly magnanimous in granting him the mercy which he denied
to the Christian. We certainly do not agree with the Duke, in
his address tc Shylock, that the conditions upon which his life is
spared are imposed — " That thou shalt see the difference of our
sjtirit." Nor do we think that Shakspere meant to hold up
these conditions as anything l)etter than examples of the mode
in which the stroni!; are accustomed to deal with the weak.
There is still something discordant in this, the real catastrophe
of the drama. It could not be otherwise, and yet be true to
natures" — (Knight, — rictorial Edition of Shahjiere, Comedies, vol.
i., p. 455.)

Did Shakespeare intend one of those subtle, gently melancholy
parallels so frequent in bis works, where the folly of the fool and
the wisdom of the wise, the goodness of the good and the evil of
the evil, are seen to move in .such closely iieighlKHiiiiig tracks 1

3.1

REMAEKS ON OTHELLO.

409

jjti

The Jew misuses law to subvert equity, the Duke misuses equity
to subvert hiw.]

'Are we to understand that Slij^Iock, Judas-like, committed
suicide when he left the court 1 There is something peculiar in
his excliiniciUon, " I am not well." A man of his stern character
would have scorned to acknowledge any feeling of illness at such
a time, unless he intended to end illness and health alike by
ending his life. Besides, he would never really have consented
to become a Christian, and his ready acceptance of that condition
showed that he meant to break it, — and for that there was but
one way.'

n..

REMAEKS ON "OTHELLO."

■ if

JitJy \Oth—I)ecemher 30//(,.— ' Read "Othello." Poor Desde-
mona is scarcely at all stained with the coarseness Avliich disfigures
so many of Shakespeare's heroines. How wonderfully the poet
indicates the sin of Desdemona's conduct towards her father, in
order to mitigate our revolt against fate for dooming one so
lovely and so innocent. Brabantio is respected and pitied
throughout.

' Emilia is a riddle. How ingeniously she evades Desdemona's
questions as to the possil)ility of Avives deceiving their husbands.
I believe her to be intended as a woman of the world, Avith some-
thing of mr.sculine hardness and hoiiesty in her nature, so
thoroiij^hly versed in the evil ways of a camp, that she could hardly
remember whether ,3l;» had ever committed adultery, or only
talked about it as an every >..^ "^ence — as one speaks of eating

and drinking. There is something meii'tricious in her very warm-
heartedness ; what, it is hard to explaui, — any one may have
seen the like among ladies of a certain class. Bates's attack on
Sykes after the murder of Nancy, in Oliver 2v;ist, k of the same
ty})e Avith Kmilia's attack on Othello.

' Bianca seems almcjst unnecessary. Association Avith lier
degrades Cassio too nuicli. One thinks that such a man ought

! I
I

. '!

410

APPENDIX.

not to be made governor of Cyprns, — I mean, one imjnihlrehj
thinks so, while rapt in the interest of the story, for of course
reflection points out that the greatest dignitaries have often been
the worst of profligates, and that fashional)le immorality has
frequently proved a road to promotion. Nevertheless it is against
poetic justice that a profligate should be honoui'cd. I dislike the
scene where lago makes Cassio scoff at Bianca. The experiment
is too gross : first, Ijecause there was little chance that Cassio
would abuse Bianca in such terms as in no Avay to indicate whom
he spoke of ; secondly, liecause Othello, however blinded, could
hardly have supposed that language so vile could apply even to a
fallen Desdemona.

[These notes were written l)efore I had seen " Othello " on
the stag(\ I now recognise the value of an episode, the want of
Avliich (with other most important passages), in the ordinary
acting version, is almost fatal to the play, hurrying the action
and depriving Othello of motive for his jealousy, to an extent
which sliocks and confuses the spectator's mind, and degrades
the deceived and half-distracted Moor into a ruthless unreason-
able butclier. On the German stage (I am informed) this drama
is never nxutilated. Why should Shakespeare's own country
persist in treating him so uuintelligently 1 Surely such a poor
" water-fly " as Bianca need not be strained at, Avhen the play
itself is (happily) ingulped without objection. The scene referred
to in some respects parallels that of the " play ... to catch the
conscience of the King" in " Handet ; " both being needed to
supply motive for a deed of blood, both (as it seems to me) lieing
im}»erfectly conceived and executed, through haste or carelessness
on the part of the great dramatist.]

' There is some similarity in the first part of the plot of " Cym-
beline." Why is it that one is inclined to have more sympathy
for Imogen than for Desdemona 1 Perhaps because she was less
foolisli and married a man of her own coloiu' : for, say what
you will, a union between a white woman and a black man is
revolting.'

[Otlielld's blackness, frig^tfulness, and general repulsiveness

>ne imjnihiveli/
, for of course
ave often Leen
nimorality has
fiss it is against
I dislike tlie
lie experiment
ce that Cassio
indicate whom
blinded, could
pply even to a

I " Othello " on
:le, the want of
I the ordinary
ing the action
r, to an extent
, and degrades
Idcss unreason-
led) this drama

own country
ly such a poor
wlien the play

scene referred

. to catch the

ing needed to

IS to nu') being

or carelessness

plot of " Cym-

iiore sympathy

e she was less

for, say what

l)lack man is

1 repulsiveness

REMARKS ON OTHELLO.

411

are asserted oi iniplied by nearly every personage in the pla}-,
including the Moor himscli '.—{IJrahaiitio) "The sooii/ bosom of
such a thing as thou, to fear not to delight " (i. 2) : " She in
sjnk of nature ... to fall in love with what she feared to look
on" (i. 3) : (Did-e) "If virtue no delighted beauty lack, your
son-in-law is far more fair than hIacJc " (i. 3) : (Itoderujo) " What a
full fortune does the thick-Jlps owe" (i. 1): {lago) "An old hlaek
ram" (i. 1): "The devil will make a grandsire of you" (i. 1):
" Erring harharian " (i. 3) : " What delight shall ^he have to look
on the dt'viV (ii. 1): "Years, manners, and beatifies, all which the
Moor is defective in" (ii. 1): "She seemed to shake, and fear
your looks " (iii. 3) : Emilia) " Too fond of her most fdthj bargain "
(v. 2) : (Desdemona) " I saw Othello's visage in his mind " (i. 3) :
(Othello) " Haply for I "am black " (iii. 3) : " Her name that Avas
as fresh as Dian's visage, is now ber/rimcd and black as mine own
face " (iii. 3).

la what clearer terms Shakespeare could have presented the
idea of a somewhat uncouth, barbaric being, opposite in aspect
to the fairness and beauty of Europeans, and physically repugnant
to their taste, — a negro or negroid, in short, — I am at a loss to
imagine, unless he had described his sable hero feature by feature
in the manner of a natural history treatise. Yet most people,
perhaps, are inclined to the contrary conclusion, holding, with
the late Mr. Knight, that Othello was " one of the most noble
and accomplished of the proud children of the Ommiades and the
Abamdes" (Pictorial Shakspere) ; or acc<'|-i'ng the dictum of the
usually deep-sighted poet Coleridge — tlat in Hoderigo's epithet
of " thick-lips," we have " one, if net the only, seeming justifica-
tion of our black-a-moor or negro Othello " (A^.fes and Lectures) ;
while, on the stage itself, the },h>.^i not unfrequently appears
with a brick-dust com})lexion little swarthier than the counten-
ance of an oi'dinary sun-burnt Englishman. No blindness so
dense as sentimental blindness. In Germany Othello is always
black.

It is interesting to compare '' Titus Andronicus " (a play partly
at least written by Shakespeare), wlicre Aaron, a " ^fmir. beloved

l''l

ye: , ; I

!'3

412

APPENDIX.

by Tamora," is distinctly described as a negm, — adversely to the
opinion of those declaring that even in the early seventeenth
centnry a Moor could not be confounded with a low-type African
— a confusion, by the bye, observal/le in the old word hlack-a-
moor. It will be observed that similar terms are employed ir;
characterising the aspects of Aaron and of Othello, and that the
alleged impossibility of conceiving a high-born European lady in
love with a negro, has not been present to the mind of the
author of " Titus Andronijus," To cite a few passages in illus-
tration : — {Aaron) " What signifies . . . my fleece of woolhj Imir
that now uncurls even as an adder?" (ii. 3) : (Basskinis) " Your
swarth Cimmerian doth make your honour of his body's hue,
sjwtted, detested, and abominable " (ii. 3) : "A barbarous Moor "
(ii. 3) : (Lavinla) " Her raven-coloured love " (ii. 3) : (Aaron)
'' What hath he sent her 1 Nurse (speaking of Queen Taraora's
child by Aaron) — A devil ... a joyless, dismal, black and sorrow-
ful issue . . . Aaron,. Is black so base a hue 1 " (iv. 2) : (Tamora)
" My lovely Aaron " (ii. 3) : " Ah, my sweet Moor, sweeter to me
than life " (ii. 3). Farther examples are needless.]

' It would be curious to inquire how far " Othello " influenced
Goethe's Faust. Mephistopheles has much in common with
lago, even to the very maimer of his songs and mischievous
revols, and a likeness may be traced between Margaret and
Desdemona.

' Ought not the passionate speeches of Othello (and other
personages) to be cut short l)efore they iK'gin mighty similes
and classical apostrophes 1 On first thoughts, one would answer
— Yes. But experience teaches that peopli^ sometimes vent their
most real and jiowerful passions in graudihxpient words. It
should bo remembered that hshakt'speare lived in lienaissance times,
wlu'n Greek and Roman allusions were less hackneyed than now.
His Jupiter, Apollo, Lethe, and Styx, may be paralleled with a
modern sul)j(!ctive poet's discourse about Odin and Baldur, and
the ash Ygdrasil — on Avhose branches hangs the world.'

[Commentators have l)een mucli perplexed by a line in lago's
bitter .speech against Cassio at tlu; beginning of die j)lay —

COMMENTS ON A SERMON.

413

"One Michael Cassio, a P'lorentine,
A fellow almost damned in a fair vife — "

some discovering a reference to Bianca, some imagining an allusion
too gross to mention, some suggesting a change of " wife " into
" life " (or " pliyz " !) while others dismiss the passage as hopelessly
obscure.

May not la go's meaning have been simply this? — "A man
almost degraded into a woman (through leminine tastes and
habits);" as when one says — "A soldier v/psted in a parson," —
" A farmer spoilt in a king " ; —a view sujiported by the imme-
diately succeeding lines —

" That never set a squadron in the fiekl,
Nor the division of a battle knows
J/oj'c tlian a S2nnstei:"

This sense might seein clearer were the definite article employed
— the fellow, the fair wife, — as in the phrase — " Sinking the
Christian in the dogmatist." (Compare 2Wd. and Cress, (i, 2) —
"There's Hector . . . there's a fellow . . . there's a brave man,
niece.")]

COMMENTS ON A SERMON.

Sunday ... . — 'Mr.

preached a sermon from John iii. 16.

" God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son,
that whosoever l)elieveth in him should not perish but have ever-
lasting life." On this text he said much that was excellent, but
oiv^ r'v'ticism I may be allowed to make, as it applies to a ccmmon
doctrine rather than to this paa-ticular sermon.

' Kemarking that a mere assent to the truth of Christianity is
not enough to ensure salvation, the preacher went on to say that
unless a certain "change" took place a man would infallibly be
lost. [A change of which the man himself was conscious : so I,
ri'ditly or wrongly, understood the statement at the time.]

' Now this way of putting the case has driven huiulivds of men
to desperation. Some who have loved and served (Jod from their

fM\

1 ','

< .<

' *

f .fl!.!

t'i

414

APPENDIX.

youth, though perhaps with little fervour, must needs despair,
because they cannot find how to set about a new sort of love and
service, though by degrees they might easily have been taught to
improve the old. Others again, who having been great sinners,
have left their sins and an; striving to do well, must likewise
despaii", because they are unable, percliance from lack of imagina-
tion, to pass through the hysterical phases which they are told
ought to accomi)any tlie change. [Others again, willing enough
to leave their sins, are sent empty away to seek for signs and
wonders in themselves, — which do not appear, so tlie hope of
them ceases, and the aspirant sorrowfully accepts the comprehen-
sible evils of sinfulness in preference to the incomprehensible
conditions of goodness.]

' How simple is it to say — a " more a^si^ut " is not enough, but
when an assent is so cordial as to influence the conduct it shows
itself to be that very belief or " faith " which is so much insisted
on. Any man can knoAV whether or not he is trying to do right ;
and if lie knows that he is trying to do light let him know that
h(! has faith, thougli he may be unable to gauge its extent or
quality.

' Many men, no doubt, have passed from sin to goodness
through a scere mental crisis, but this should be held the excep-
tion, not quoted as the only rule. If the Prodigal Son's elder
brother had perversely chosen to come before his father in rags,
accusing himself of his brother's sins, and rejecting his father's
assurance, " Son, thou art ever with me, and all that I have is
thine," would there have been a fatted calf killed for him ? There
is more joy in Heaven over a sinner that repenteth than ovt>r
ninety and nine just men tliat need no repentance : " — more joy,
yes ; but it is not sai<l, — more love and favour.'

[In a subsequent conversation, of wliicli I sufficiently remember

tlie substaui ' . tho;;;.,h it holds no })lace in my journal, Mr.

stated that liiose were wrong who taught peoples to pry much into
their owu ]; .irts in order to discover whetlier or not they loved
( Jod. To the despondent it may he said — In such a case anxiety
to love goes far to pn»ve tlie existence of love : to those who

REFLECTIONS ON PATIENCE, ETC,

41.')

count such doubtings admirable, and wilfully clicrish them, it
may be said — A liappily Avcdded couple do not waste time
brooding over the question, — Do I love my wife 1 Do I love my
husband ] The best love is the shuplest, the most spontaneous,
the most unquestioning.

Though unwilling to trust to memory, I have thought it

right to make this reference to remarks illustrative of Mr. 's

teaching, lest my comments on the sermon should give an
erroneous impression of its general tendency. Let me point out
that in the notes referred to I have not offered any opinion of
my own on the great doctrinal question of Regeneration — whether
the beginning of spiritual life coincides with a man's natural birth,
or with his baptism, or with some conscious act of faith on his
part : I merely argue that, assuming the last of these opinions to
be true, it does not follow that a certain mode of teaching should
be founded on it. Let me also say that though I have preserved
these old remarks of mine because in the main I still believe them
to be just, I am Avell aware that they touch but the surface of one
of the mightiest and most occult of subjects.]

REFLECTIONS ON PATIENCE AND GOD'S
PROVIDENCE.

October 2ith. — ' A thousand circumstances must show to every
thoughtful man who has learnt to trust in God, that out of present
evil comes good, often as its distinctly traceable result. Grant
this to be doubtful, it is still a beiu-licial idea for those who
possess it; and those who do not, — as well as those who do, —
may proceed to reflect that there are other interests in the world
than one's own, that each son has his particular portion and must
not expect to have his brother's also.

*No one Avill deny that trials and sorrows rightly borne
(Strengthen and elevate the character ; and if we deem tliis world
a training school for higher states of existence (as in all probability
it is), and it we seek to be fellijw-workers witli our heavenly

I '^■T '

3 '

f V

,•1 '_

1 ^i ; .

•1''

a ' jk

■it

' |i;,jj

•ft ' f

.*'

!r i

tlG

APPENDIX.

Miaster in tho process of soul rlevelopmont, might wo not to rejoice
when the teiicher, hiying aside indirect nu^thods, phiinly sets l)efor(^
us some broad and simple lesson, something that patience must
learn hy heart and courage carry out in practice ]

' Patience, — how little is this virtue thought of by men, yet
how great its value for him who wishes to be of any Avorth or
mark ! If the most tedious illness or the most moitifying reverse
teach patience to an impatient one, he will acknowledge during
his future life that he made more way in the world through those
seeming retrogressions, than years of bustling activity had previ-
ously gained for him.

' One difference between God and man is this : — we, ignorant
and W(^ak, cannot do good to many without injuring some ; He,
all-knowing, all-wise, all-good, so interweaves the interests of his
children, that from the very sins of the most rebellious he
extracts bh ssings for the whole family. It seems to me far more
to the D'vine honour to believe that out of man's contradictions
God bri.igs forth his own purposes hour by hour, than to suppose
liini to have created a piece of mechanism called Earth, filled it
with pupp(!ts, wound it up and set it in motion, and tlu-n rested
from his labours and his cares like a workman glad to be rid of his
allotted task. AVe can hardly hold the latter view without making
(iod the author of sin ; and not merely of sin in general, but of
every in<lividual sin in particular, — an appalling idea. Better
seems it to think that ( Jod, liaving willed that men be free agents,
can no more reverse his own will in th's than in other respects ; —
that consequently his power of fcn-eknowing eacli individual's lift-
is the same in kind (though infinitely greater in degree) as that
of an experienced man acciuainted with the influences that mould
human character.

' Such a view enables one to discover a realness in the relations
between God and man which mere abstract doctrine does not
exhibit. The cpiestion is no longer between an incomprehensil)le
irresponsible being and wretched creatunis formed for an obligatory
crawl each in its o n\ track, l>ut between an all-i)erfect father and
his weak and erring children ; the children owing their father

COMMENTS ON BUNSEN'S IIIPrOLYTUS.

417

IX tlu'ir father

obedionce, tlic father owing the children protection, and bound
by tlie same moral laws that bind them — laws which, having their
origin in his own nature, cannot be laid aside or superseded ; — the
children free to bo either good or evil according to their own
choice ; the father rejoicing in their good and sorrowing in tlieir
evil with real man-like joy and man-like grief, and with real num-
like pleasure enhancing the happiness of Heaven by displaying to
the ages to come the Avonders of his many-sided wisdom in ruling
the world ; an<l finally triumphing with man-like triumph when
" Cometh the end " — the end of the present stage of this world's
development — perchance of every planetary world that also circles
round our sun — and " all things are brought under his feet," and
our whole universe, delivered from sin and sorrow, is restored to
perfect order, happiness, and love.' [In copying these pages of my
journal, I am led to reflect how far the views expressed in the later
part of them are true or probable. I think them probable, but
have leas than my former unqualified confidence in their truth.
Every year of life teaches us, in lessons of growing force, our OAvn
profound ignorance of all that belongs to the world unseen. I do
l)elieve in the entire benevolence of God, and accept the inevitably
resulting conclusions in regard to the ultimate victory of good over
evil, but some of my old remarks seem to me rather too un-
conditionally presented. Be tliat as it may, the subjects discussed
are worthy of consideration ; I therefore preserve my own reflec-
tions on them, offering them, however, rather as indications for a
Ihu! of thouglit, than as conclusions which I am ready to maintain
by argument.]

COMMENTS ON BUNSEN'S " HIPPOLYTUS."

Sunday, January \5th. — ' Reading Bunseu's Jlq^poJytiis* This
is a most interesting book, establishing clearly, as might be sup-
p(jsed, the difference between the Primitive Church, and that of
Home on the one hand, or those of Pi'otestantism on the other.

' Tlie baptism of infants appears to have })een unknown for

* BuxsKX (V. ('. J.), — llippoli/t.tis and His Age. Loudon, 1852.

2 E

41S

APPENDIX.

','• I.

'♦ ' ,

JtBL

soviT.al conturios, and tluit of chiklren, oven, to have hoc^n of coi i-
panitivcly lutts intrnliiction, confirmation and ' iptism liaviiij^
previously l)e(>n licld inseparable.

* The Eucharist ai»peai's niuther to have boon viewed us a
repetition of Chiist's sacrifice with the acc(nnp;u!ying phenomena
of transubstantiation, nor as a mere commemoriitivt! rit(^, but as
possessing a peculiar gract' in its j)ower of drawing closer the
mystic bond of union between Christ and l)elievers, who in their
consciousness of that iicorporation spiritually offered themselves
up as living sacrifices to God ; and thus, evidently in consequence
of this act of special comnuinion with Christ, the early Church
ordaiii"d that prayer at that period of the service should not bo
offered directly to the Son, but to the Father, — as coming from the
wliohi ( hurch inclusive of Christ as its head.

'Till minute definitions of the Athanasian Creed, or even of
the Nicene, are by no means in accord with i)riniitive views, which
without any parade of a sei)aration of the Divine Persons of tlu^
Trinity at the same time that their '.aiity is asserted, made the
separate pcrxtuality of th(^ Father, the Son, and the Holy (J host
peculiarly distinct ; appearing to treat this as the practical part
of the doctrine, while the nature of the union of the second and
third ^>^■s,scd Persons with one another, and with the cternalCJod-
head of the Father, seemed to be regarded as a subject for devout
epeculatioQ.

' To the simple believer of primitive times Christ appeared in
no Fonsji Identical with God the Father, l)ut as his eternally exist-
ent son, the special lord of man and man's world; and the Holy
Spirt was viewed as the Divine medium of connnunion betAveen
Father and Son, the revealer of God to man's si)irit from the be-
ginning, and the perpetual manifester of Christ in and by the
Cluuch. Each Divine personality had therefore his own peculiar
pLace in worship, and tin re was none of that strange confusion so
fjequently found in modern devotional exercises, particularly in ex-
temporaneons prayer.

* In the Apostolic Constitutions we find a considerable amount
oi' information on the domestic habits and modes of thought of

: ;r Jit'l

COMMENTS ON BUNSEN'S HIPP0LYTU8.

419

B W(^n of coiii-
iptism haviiif^

viewed us a
iig phenomeiiiv
AC rite, Imt as
ing closti" the
s, who in their
ced themselvea
in consequence
ti early Church

shouhl not he
ouiing from the

fed, or even of
ve views, which
• Persons of the
crted, made th(^
the Holy (I host
\ practical part
the second and
,he eternal (Jod-
»ject for devout

rist appeared in
etenially exist-
and tlu^ Holy
mnion hetwei'U
[it from the he-
Ihi and hy the
is own peculiar
Ige confusion so
Irticularly in ex-

iderahle amount
Is of thought of

primitive Christendom, as well as on thcii religious and ecclesiae-
tical rules.

' It is worthy of notice that a bishop is forbidden to form a
second marriage, or to marry a widow, a ilivorced woman, a
slave, or a person of bad rei)Ute, or to nuirry his first cousin, his
niec(>, or his deceased wife's sister, — such marriages being less
esteemed. The prohibition of any second marriage would
necessarily include marriage with a deceased wifii's sister, but such
alliances being mentioned in coin; tion with others known to bo
lawful, proves that these also v. t^ro held lawful, though perhajis
inexpedieni. This is Bunsei ■ .iiiion, and one which it would
be difficult to controvert.

* In regard to Sabbatical "It^t , \ance the early Church conse-
crated both Saturday and Sunday, the former in conmaemoration
of the Creation, the latter of Christ's resurrection. Masters are
enjoint!(l to free their servants from work on those days, that they
may have leisure to receive instruction in the faith ; the whole
comnuuiity are desired to celebrate the Eucharist on Sunday (and
indeed on every occasion of meeting for religious jmrposes) ; and
anathemas are . pronounced agahist anyone who shall keep the
Lord's Day as a fast instead of a festival.

' The possession of slaves was not reckoned unchristian ; on the
contrary, it was regarded as in the natural order of things, and
various regulations were framed accordingly.

' These opinions and practices of the early Church need not b<^
thought of binding obligation on us, if we hold (and this also in
accordance with that primitive Church) that Christianity is a
principle of action rather than a system of laws, and that God's
Spirit is always present to guide the collective body of l>elievers
into such observances and opinions as are suitable to the times in
which they live ; but though not binding on us they ought to
hove a certain influence in regulating our views, and more especi-
ally in saving us from undue respect for churches and doctrines —
wlu^ther Protestant or lioman, — whose claims have been founded
either on an antiquity presumed to extend to Apostolic days, but
now ascertained to be as far removed from that period as we are

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APPENDIX.

lU f I I

from the dawn of the Reformation ; or on scholastic deductions
from certain passages in Scripture to which the immediate pupils of
the Apostles attached a very different and much freer significance.'

LETTER FROM THE REV. THOMAS WOOLSEY.*

" Wesleyan Mission, Edmonton House,
''October 18, 1860.

" As the huiiible representative of the Wesleyan Missionary
Society in these parts, allow me to feel honoured by your Lord-
ship's favourable recognition of my predecessor, as set forth in the
accompanying paper, taken from the Wesleyan Missmiary Notices
for April last, and copied from the Church of Scotland Missionary
Record. The same in substance appeared in the Nor' JFester of
Jan. 2d.

["Christian Families among the Indian Tribes. — The
Earl of Southesk, during his recent hunting expedition in the
Rocky Mountains, fell in with about twelve families of Assiniboines
or Stone Indians (very wild and savage as a tribe), who professed
Christianity, and, so far as he could judge, were acting up to their
profession. These families were far from any missionary station,
and had not even seen a missionary for many years. Still they
showed a considerable acquaintance with Scripture, and were
regular in their morning and evening devotions. At their earnest
request, his Lordship wrote out foi' them several passages of
Scripture. Their knowledge of religion is supposed to have been
imparted by the Rev. Mr. Randall (Ruiidle), a Wesleyan missionary
who went to Fort Edmonton in 1839, and left the country in
1847, on account of ill health; they have, however, a regular
teacher in one of themselves, who has been set apart by them for
that purpose." — Record Neivsjfaper.]

" The Stone Indians are, without doubt, exclusively indebted to
Mr. Rundle, under God, for all the religious instruction they
primarily received, as he devoted himself most assiduously to them

* See page 3:>B.

/,'

LETTER FROM REV. THOMAS WOOLSEY.

421

»NTON House,

during his eight years' sojourn in the Saskatchewan ; and it is a
great satisfaction that any of them retained what they had
previously received, after being without a missionary from 1848
to 1855, when I entered upon the duties of this peculiar section
of John Wesley's parish — that venerable man's motto being, ' The
world is my parish.'

" But your Lordship's statement conveys the idea that I have,
to a certain extent, been ' at ease in Zion,' at least in regard to
some of that interesting portion of the aborigines — not designedly
I am aware, but I fear that your Lordship has been misinformed,
as I saw the very Assiniboines referred to last February, when they
expressed their high appreciation of your Lordship's kindness to
them ; and these are the very families whom I have visited
frequently since '56. They may have expressed themselves in
regard to not having seen a missionary since Mr. Rundle left
until they met with me ; but I think that is all they could say ;
so that your interpreters must have misunderstood them, and,
consequently, misled your Lordship. I would not be so positive,
as it is possible for a few families to have escaped my notice, if I
had not met with the same Indians last February, and recognised
them as the very individuals I had often seen previously. I have
visited them near the mountains every winter for three years past,
and actually travelled far to see a few straggling families that
were not with the main band. During two visits paid to them,
between Ghost and Bow Rivers, I baptized 116 adults and 196
children, besides solemnising 28 marriages.

" The above remarks have been made simply by way of explana-
tion, and without the 'east design of casting any reflection upon
your Lordship's obse vations, and which, I have no doubt, will be
appreciated by a si^.cere lover of * the truth, the whole truth, and
nothing but the t' uth.'

" As your Lordship may probably feel interested in a narrative
of events conr.ected with this remote spot, I will endeavour to
furnish a few of the more remarkable items.

" In September '59,1 enclosed a few letters to your Lordship,
designed for transmission from Carlton House to Red River, but

.it;

\ I

422

APPENDIX.

>'«'

if- H

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had the mortification to learn, in a month or two, that the letter-
carrier had thrown the whole of the mail into the Saskatchewan.

" The summer of '59, we have since understood, was a some-
what disastrous one to many persons in the Territory, through the
loss of the chartered ship Kitty, nearly all mission and private
orders bemg on board of her. Several of my consignments are
amongst the missing. The past twelve months have also proved
very unpropitious to this mission, as the Sarcees have stolen two
of my horses, two others have died from natural causes, and one
has been devoured by the wood wolves. Occasional skirmishes
have taken place amongst the different tribes, in which all have
Buffered more or less. Killed and wounded may be reported
amongst the Blackfeet, .Blood Indians, Sarcees, and Crees, In
fact, a freeman was killed by the Sarcees last August while I was
with the Crees an,d freemen. I shall not soon forget the excesive
grief manifested as his friends brought his bloody corpse to the
camp. Several horses were stolen, — mine amongst the number,
although I subsequently recovered them, on payment of about
£6 sterling. Crime has to be rewarded in these parts.

" Last month an unusual occurrence took place at this fort, a
Cree deliberately shooting a Blackfoot chief and scalping him near
the very spot where your Lordship and I took leave of each other.
The fort gates were instantly closed, lest the Blackfeet should
take revenge upon the whites. In fact, three of the Company's
employes, who were just coming from the boat, were laid hold of
by the Blackfeet, but by an almost superhuman struggle escaped,
and ran for their lives. Two days after, a few Sarcees crossed
the river, and had just seated themselves on the opposite bank,
when a wa^' party of Crees, from Fort Pitt, fired upon them, and
killed one instantly, and scalped him. The others threw away
their robes, and fled, wounded, it is supposed, as several bullets
had i)assed tlirt their robes.

" It is well t ; , your Lordsl)ip went tlirough the country last
year, as it would have been unsafe this season. An eminent
traveller has judiciously observed, in i-egard to tlie Indians, that
* in time of peace, no greater friends ; in time of Avar, no greater

\ I

at the letter-
skatchewan.
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Aug. /2rr /esQ.

Tho? Woolsey,
Wesleyan Missionary.

•I -i'

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If.

LETTER FROM REV. THOMAS VVOOLSEY. 423

oiHimioH.' Yes, then their barbanty in proverbial— their liatred
iniphioablc.

" When with the Crees last August, I visited the h)cality re-
nowned for having a hirgo piece of iron there. In fact, an adj«)in-
ing hik»! and a rivuhit bear the respective (h-signutions of Iron
Lak(! and Iron Kivulet. Well, there the iron is, as i)ure as pos-
sil)le, and as sonorous as an anvil, and weighs, I should judgt*, 200
lbs. It is on the summit of a mound, but whetlier it is a meteoric
phenomenon or indicative of iron in that section, I cannot
say

. . . . " Just as I am finishing this letter a messenger has
arrived from Fort Pitt, with tidings of a war party of Blackfeet
having fallen upon the Crees, and killed 20 of them, and that 4
Blackfeet fell in the struggle.

" T. WOOLSEY,

" W^sUyan Mimoiuiri/."

1.'

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INDEX.

Africa, the, passage out in, 2.

Aiktow River, or River that turns,
75, 77.

Anderson, Bishop of Rupert's Land,
resident at Fort Garry, exchanges

■ visits with author, 32, 361 ; Pro-
testant cathedral descrihed, 33 ;
summons a meeting on revivals,
and invites author to speak,
362 ; preaches Mr. Mackenzie's
funeral sermon, 356 ; preaches at
St. James's, — his tolerance of
children in church, 362 ; author's
farewell acknowledgments to him
and Miss Anderson, 364.

Anderson, Captain (afterwards Sir
James), 2, 371.

Ans Northup, arrival of the, 34.

Antelope. See Cabree.

Antoine Blandoine, a French half-
breed : engaged as a hunter and
guide, 159 ; shoots ducks, 171 ;
his enthusiasm, 180 ; on Auroras,
183 ; makes a fishing-rod, 189 ;
stalks sheep and goat, 191, 192 ;
shoots a ewe, 196 ; assistsin raising
a cairn, 196 ; chases grisly with
author, 197 ; shoots sheep with
author, 198, 199 ; his quaint
rifle, 199 ; his appearance, 204 ;
sheep stalking with author, 205,
206 ; shoots a fine ram, etc., 209-
214 ; his " arrangement" of the
slain, 213, 214 ; meets author
with horses, 220 ; doubtful as to
track, 224 ; goat-stalking with

author — return in the dark
227, 228 ; sheep-stalking, 231,
239; shoulders a ewe, 240 ; goat-
stalking with author — dangerous
climb, 240, 243 ; hunts, and
fords Bow River with author, 255,
256 ; farewell, 269.

Ariwakenha, Thomas. See Toma.

Assiniboine River, St. James's Epis-
copalian settlement on, 33, 362;
vale of, 50 ; the Qu'appelle a
tributary of, 66 ; might be joined
to South Saskatchewan, 76 ; camp
by, 320 ; breadth of, atFort Pelly,
322 ; hunting of beaver on, 332 ;
settlement along banks of, 348.

Assiniboines. See Indians.

Athabasca River, mountains near its
soiirce, 172, 173, 180, 193-221,
362 ; Pembina River, 170, and
M'Leod River, 175, its tributaries ;
Medicine Tent River one of its
chief head-waters, 193, 201, 221 ;
height-of-land between its waters
and those of North Saskatchewan,
201,221.

Aurora Borealis, 183, 274, 297,
298, 308.

Bad Hill, 110 et seq. ; features of

country near, 113, 126, 127.
Badgers, 56, 103.
Ballantyne, Mr. R. M., quoted, 5.
Baptist, an Iroquois voyageur, 5.
Battle River, 266.
Bear Lake, 134.

,1^'

i '?

i'« ^i

r *

I* !

>l '

426

INDEX,

Bear, Black, shot by James Mackay,
24 ; track seen, 144 ; run neai'
Red Deer River, 265.

Bear, Grisly, hunted by author on
Bad Hill, 108-120 ; female and
cub seen, 111 ; male wounded
by author, 112 — found, 116 —
measurement of his skin, 1 1 7 —
hideous human aspect when
skinned, 117; tracks of, human
in form, 116; anecdote of Indian
killed by, 110; male shot from
horseback by Tait, 119; immense
skin at Fort Carlton, 131 ; said
to be i)lentiful in the Rocky
Mountains, 167 ; hunted by
author, but makes oflF, 197 ; met
by Short, 206 ; best mode of
shooting, 206 ; traces of digging
for roots seen, 209, 234, 238 ;
track seen, 222 ; habit of eating
mice, 266 ; anecdote of fight with
four bufiiiloes, 289,— of two In-
dians driven into a tree by, 290,
292.

Beaver Creek, 60.

Beaver Hill Creek, 314.

Beaver, trees cut down by the, 171,
267; meat, 181, 186, 332.

Bichon, a yellow-dun pony, a buffalo-
runner, once belonged to Nahtooss,
a Blackfoot chief, 43 ; described,
43 ; his trick of neighing, 50, 73,
91 ; runs a wolf, 71 ; sufferings
from gad-flies, 72 ; amusing pe-
culiarities, 72, 73, 127 ; runs a
bull, 80 ; his merits, 81 ; cleverly
avoids a charging bull, 84, 85 ;
after the great herd — cow shot —
fine bull run to bay, 91-96 ;
runs cows — comes down on his
head — instinct for lioinc, 104-
107 ; goes to Bad Hill, 108 ;
unsuccessfully runs an ox, 118 ;
hoofs worn, 129 ; swims to meet

his comrades 130 ; very thin —
exchanged at Fort Pitt, 140, 141.

Birds, tameness of one, 144 ; sing-
ing of numerous, 26, 41.

Bison, or Bullalo (American Bison),
described, 91 : Bulls, their weight
and size, 91 ; thickness of skull,
80 ; generally lean in July, 80,
93 ; awkward and grotesque, 85 ;
sometinies dangerous, 85, 103 ;
lion-like when old, 118; will face
a grisly bear, 289, 290 ; size of
horns, 96 ; horns often broken,
93, 96, 289 ; wallows, 96, 97,
255 ; rutting season, 123 ; sound
of roaring, 92, 123: Oxen, 105,
118: Cows, swifter and harder to
approach than bulls, 92, 109 ;
fierce when at bay, 121 : Calves,
52, 106, 117, 122: Buffaloes
(unclassified), quality of meat,
51,80,123; dungusedforfuel,67;
meat dried, 100, etc. ; pemmican,
300, etc. ; meat on stages, 295,
325 ; go in vast herds, 92, 109,
255 ; once conmion in Rocky
Mountains, 254; becoming scarcer
everywhere, 255, 285 ; food in
winter, 317 ; can be domesti-
cated, 52 : annual great hunts of,
by half-breeds, 30, 40 ; Fort
EUice men hunting — tongues and
live c;.lves brought in — tame
heifer, 51, 52 ; bull seen, 69 ;
plain screwed with skulls, 70 ;
herd driven across Saskatchewan
by Indians, 77, 78 ; old bull
shot, 79, 80 ; bull run and shot,
80 ; two bulls shot, 84, 85 ;
vast herd sighted, — hunted —
several bulls shot — author shoots
fat cow, and bull with very fine
horns, 91-95 ; bull receives four-
teen shots, 96-98 ; herd stalked
on foot, 102, 103 ; herd guided

INDEX.

427

becoming scarcer

ng — tongues and

3 ; herd ijuided

by half-breed, 104 ; cows ran,
104-106 ; great herd on way to
Bad Hill, 109 ; buU struck at by
grisly, 112 ; cows stalked — bull
protects cow, 114, 115 ; row with
new-born calf — cow and bull
shot, 117-119 ; Mackay and
M'Beath shot nine cows, 119 ;
harness carved from bull, 119,
120 ; author shoots a very fine
cow, 121, 122 ; calf hunted by
wolves, 123 ; bulls roaring round
camp, 123 ; summary of sport,
126 ; Mr. Vanderbirt sees fresh
killed one, 160 ; skulls, etc., in
the Rocky Mountains, 254, 255 ;
anecdote of bulls and grisly bear,
288, 290 ; a few bulls seen
during winter journey, 295, 296,
298, 306.
Bittern, The, 23, 42.
Black, Rev. Mr., Free Church min-
ister at Fort Garry, 353, 357.
Black, a large well-bred horse,
37, 45, 79, 84, 91, 95, 104,
134, 140.
Blackfeet. See Indians.
Black Mud Hill, 143.
Blakiston, Captain, R.A., 9, 114,

256.
Blandoine. See Antoine.
Blind River, 265.
Blood Indians. See Indians.
Blond, alias M'Gillis, a handsome
chestnut cart-horse, 41, 109, 270,
299 ; falls down an ice-bank,
229.
Boat-tents described, 15.
Bow Fort, Old, a deserted fort on

Bow River, 252, 255, 256.
Bow River, the chief head-water
of the South Suskatcliewi. •, the
party find right road to it from
Kootanie Plain, 236 ; cross height-
of-land between its wuter-shed

and that of North Saskatchewan,
237 ; arrive at river itself, 244 ;
its valley, 250 ; fineness of the
trees, 250 ; author and Antoine
cross and recross, 255, 256 ; fine
trout caught, 256.
Boyd, Mr., an English traveller, 30.
Brazeau's Cache, 176.
Brazeau River, 193.
Brazeau, Mr,, Fort Edmonton, cordi-
ally receives author, 146 ; gives
him information on Catlin's state-
ments, 151, 159 ; on missionary
work, 154 ; on the Blackfeet and
other Indians, 154, 159-165;
on Pe-toh-pee-kiss, a Blackfoot
warrior, 160-163.
Bridgeman, Mr., Fort Garry, 30.
Buffalo. See Bison.
Buffalo Creek, 170, 172.
Buffalo robes, 52, 276, 307.
Bullets. See Guns.
Bulwer. See Lytton.
Bunn, Dr., Fort Garry, 30.

Cabree or Prong-horned Antelope
{Antilope ftircifer), 57, 113 ;
stalked, etc., 56, 66, 67, 69, 79,
84, 109 ; head and horns of, 83,
84.

Cameron, Mr., Lachine, 5.

Camp-fire, tales of magic round, 81 ;
glf)ry of, in deep, narrow glen,
190 ; comfort of, in snow-storm
in the mountains, 217 ; com-
panionable party over, 273 ; art
of ' nilding, 305 ; crushed by the
intensity of the cold, 315 ; re-
viving effect of, 3 1 7 ; icicles close
beside, 336 ; fragrance and beauty
of, among snow-clad pines, 337.

Canoes, of skin, 87, 88 ; of india-
rubber, 14, 24.

Cardinal, Mr., superintendent of

428

INDEX.

Qu'appelle Fort, 59 ; — M. Andre,
of St. Ann, 169, 172, 175.
Cariole, — for cloga, described, 334 ;
a disagreeable vehicle, 337, 343,
344 ; Mr. Murray's, 321 ; — for
horses, Mr. Murray's, 328 ; James
M'Kay's, 349.
Carlton, Fort, on the North Saskat-
chewan, described, 132 ; ofRcer-
in-charge, Mr. Hardisty, 127 ;
men employed there, 285 ; fertile
country near, 129, 133, 301 ;
hunters from, joined by author's
party, 99-127 ; author's arrival
— stay — visit to horse-guard and
store — departure, 127-133 ;
author's return — stay — arrange-
ments about horses (mare noosed),
etc., — departure, 298-301.
Carts, Red River, 13, 20, 257.
Catlin, on canoes, 87 ; on weight of
buffalo bull, 91 ; on "wallows,"
96, 97 ; statements about the
Mandans, 151; portrait of Pe-toh-
pee-kiss, 160 ; on dog-trains, 294.
Catholics, Roman, at Fort Garry, —
Bishop of St. Boniface — nunnery,
32, 33 ; mission at Lake St.
Ann, 167-169 ; public contro-
versy with Protestant, 331 ; priest
martyred, 342 ; mission at Oak
Point, 347 ; church at White
Horse Plains, 348 ; population
at Red River Settlement, its dis-
tribution, — mmnery, — cathedral,
361. See Missions.
Cendr(5 (Mission), a roan cart-horse,
169, 333 ; wounded by a fir-
branch, 226.
Cendre (Sinclair), a favourite roan
horse, got in exchange at Fort
Pitt, 140, 141 ; hind foot burnt
in smoke- fire, 143 ; exchange of
for red-dun horse refused, 157,

runs a bear, 265 ; strays, 304 ;
runs a fox in the snow, 306 ;
suffering from winter journey,
317 ; gives out — gallantly rejoins
the party, 318, 319 ; again stops
on the road, 321 ; brought in by
an Indian, 327 ; finally left at
Fort Pelly, 333.

Chastellain, Mr., superintendent at
Fort Pitt, 285 ; hospitably
receives author, 285 ; presents
him with an Indian dress, 286 ;
tells him various anecdotes, 286-
291.

Cherry Bush, encampment at, 103, et
seq. ; country between it and Bad
Hill, 109 ; bear-hunting expedi-
tion from, 108-118,

Chicago, 6.

Chipeweyans. See Indians.

Christie, Mr., chief officer of Saskat-
chewan district, 268 ; temporarily
absent from Edmonton, 147 ;
hospitably entertains author, 268-
272 ; helps him in arrangements
about horses, 269 ; lends him liis
boat, the "Gulden Era," 273;
author's farewell to, 273.

Cold, intensity of the, on homeward
journey, 274, 282, 283, 284, 294,
296, 297, 313, 315, 317, 336,
344, 351, 367 ; below zero
(Fahrenheit), degrees observed or
supposed, 296, 300, 323 ; cir-
cumstances illustrative of, 313,
336, 367 ; considered the severest
opening of winter ever known,
323,356 ; death of Mr. Mackenzie
occasioned b}', 356.

Colville, Fort, 369.

Cranes, 26, 69.

Creek, Long Lake, 69.

Crees. See Indians.

Crow, 70 ; the piping, 223.

158 ; refreshed by rest, 187 ; Crow Indians. See Indians.

INDEX.

439

mpmentat, 103, et
etween it and Bad
T-hunting expedi-
118.

'.e Indians,
f officer of Saskat-
268 ; temporarily
Edmonton, 147 ;
tains author, 268-

Crow-wing, City, Minnesota, 7, 1 2,
368 ; River, 15, 19, ■^68 ; Indian

name, 15.

Cimard, Sir Edward, Bart., 371.
Cynthia Huntera — flight of butter-
flies supposed to be, 222.
Cypres Hills, 78.

Dag-paitern, knife of the, 164, 165.

Dalhousie, Earl of, mountain named
after, by author, 222.

Deer, Black-tailed, or Bounding
{Genus macrotis), 111, 113, 255,
263.

Delaware vale, scenery of, 3.

De Smet (Father), missionary
travels, 154, 156.

Detroit, 6.

Deux Rivieres, 26, 27, 367 ;— tribu-
taries of M'Leod River, 173.

Dickson, Mr., rifle made by, 38, 1 1 6,
etc.

Dogs, description of Indian sleigh-
dogs, 152, 337 ; some of them
demi- wolves, 153; sometimes
castrated, 153 ; their idleness in
summer, 132, 153; value and
usefulness in winter, 154, 293,
339 ; voracity and impudence,
139, 152, 259 ; noisiness, 123,
153, 211 ; cruelties practised on
them, 338 - 340 ; dog - drivers'
language, 337, 338 ; vehicles
dra,wn by them — carioles, 334,
344', sleighs or sleds, 334, etc.,
trains or travailles, 63, 294. See
Hector, Pointer, Whisky.

Dog River, 263.

Don, a bay horse, 10, 16, 20, 26.

Dress — Half-breed, Indian, etc. See
notices of dress of — James M'Kay,
9 ; Ojibways, 28 ; nuns, 32 ; hunters
and their wives, 44,45 ; Numme,
53 ; Indians near Qu'appelle Fort,

69-63 ; Napesskes, 108 ; Sioux,
163 ; Iroquois' wife, 176 ; leather
dresses, 171 ; mountain dress of
party, 202-205 ; Blackfeet, 271 ;
Blood Indian woman, 288 ; winter
dress of party, 292 ; Half-breeds
of White Horse Plains, 348.

Duck Bay, 340.

Ducks, Wild, shot, etc., 16, 17, 27,
42, 46, 48, 137, 142, 171, 265,
268, 273 ; flights of, down the
North Saskatchewan, 273 ; Black
Diving-ducks, 190.

Duncan Robertson, a Perthshire High-
lander : accompanies author from
Scotland, 5 ; forms one of expedi-
tion from, Fort Garry, 35 ; runs
a buffalo, 85 ; bait-fishing in Sas-
katchewan, 87 ; chases wolves,
101 ; with author to the Bad
Hill, 108-116 ; assists in raising
a cairn, 196 ; hunts wild sheep,
198 ; appearance of, in the
mountains, 203 ; climbs moun-
tain with author, 246 ; in the
" Golden Era," 274 ; winter
garb, 292 ; helps Cendr^ forward,
318 ; returns to England with
author, 371.

Eagle Creek, 90, 111, 113.

Edmonton, Fort, on the North Sas-
katchewan, the Company's chief
post in the district, described,
147 ; officer in charge, Mr. Christie,
268 ; temporarily in charge, Mr.
Brazeau, 147 ; in charge in 1874,
Mr. Hardisty, 300 ; its agriculture,
148, 286 ; number of men em-
ployed there, 285 ; scarcity of
provisions, buftaloes deserting
neighbourhood, 100, 133, 255,
285; author's arrival — stay —

'M^m

,<•

'* I

'-ly

1 '■

430

INDEX.

conversations with Mr. Brazeau
and Rev.T. Woolsey — engagement
of guides, arrangements about
horses, exchange of carts for pack-
saddles, 147-165; departure,
166; return — stay — arrange-
ments about horses — message to
Mountain Assiniboines — visit of
Blackfeet, 268-272 ; departure
in the " Golden Era," 273.

Elbow the. iSee Saskatchewan.

Electrical flame from robes, 366.

EUice, Fort, on the Assiniboine, its
situation, 50 ; Mr. M'Kay, its
superintendent, 50 ; author's arri-
val, 50, 51 ; stay — men from
engaged in hunting — buffalo
tongues, robes, live calves, etc., sent
in — visit frotn two Indians —
Numme engaged — departure, 51-
53 ; dogs sent for from, 328.

Elmira, 3.

Enibarras, or Lying-wood Eiver, a
tributary of the River M'Leod,
179; view of Rockj'- Mountain
range from its banks, 180;
Iroquois hunters in its neighbour-
hood, 180-185; author's party
ascend its course, and cross more
than fifty times, 185-187.

English Creek, 138, 295.

English settlers, 32 ; few in number,
361, 362.

Episcojialian — Bishop (of Rupert's
Land),at FortGarry,33, 352, etc. ;
clergy, 353 ; cathedral, 33, 357,
361 ; St. James's church on the
Assiniboine, 34, 362 ; missionary
(Rev. Mr. Settee) at Fort Pelly,
323.

Erie railway, 2, 3.

Etna, the, passage home in, 371.

Eyes — of some animals, when at
bay, 121; of horses, shining like
stars, 190.

Fall Indians. See Indians.

Fire, — on a prairie, 19 ; near Lake
Forty-four, 20 ; country deva-
stated by, 137, 139, 250, 267,
285 ; art in building a, 305.
See Camp-fire.

Firs. See Trees.

Fish in the Saskatchewan, 83, 84.

Flathead Indians. See Indians.

Flowers, profusion of, 70 ; at Lake
St. Ann Mission, 168.

Flying-squirrel, Tlie, 234.

Fortescue, Mr., senior clerk at Fort
Garry, 30 ; renders valuable
assistance to author, 31, 366 ;
now (1874) officer-in-charge at
York Factory, 366.

Fossils, Rocky Mountain, 193, 221.

Fox, a Cree chief, 60 ; a sleigh-dog,
337.

Fox, barking of tlie, 1 35 ; chase ol'
in snow, 307 ; fur of, when prime,
307.

Franklin, Sir John, 16, 17, 27, 317.

Eraser's River, 262, 269.

Free-traders. See Half-breeds.

French settlers, 32, 361. See Hall'-
breeds. Fort Garry.

Frog River, 284.

Frogs, 23, 26.

Fuel, dry buffalo-dung as, 67 ;
different sorts of contrasted, 306.

Gadflies (Bull-dogs), 46, 71, 72,90.

Garry, Fort, capital of Red River
settlement, 2 ; arrival at, 29 ;
description of, 30 ; residents in
Fort, 30 ; Sir George Simpson
leaves, 31 ; population of its
vicinity, 32 ; Protestant and Ro-
man Catholic bishops at, 32, 352.

I (

t .'

INDEX.

431

e Indians,
ie, 19 ; near Lake
) ; country dova-
7, 139, 250, 207,
building a, 305.

itchewan, 83, 84.

See Indians,
a of, 70 ; at Lake
n, 168.
lie, 234.

nior clerk at Fort
renders valuable
author, 31, 36G ;
ifficer-in-charge at
366.

)untain, 193, 221.
, 60 ; a sleigh-dog,

le, 135 ; chase ol"
"ur of, when prinie,

11,16,17,27,317.
2, 269.
Half-breeds.
2,361. SeeUa][-
.rry.

gs), 46, 71, 72,90.
Ill of Ked River

arrival at, 29 ;
30 ; residents in

George Simpson
upulation of its
rotestant and Ro-
^hops at, 32, 352.

(See Anderson: Tachd) — Nun-
nery at, visited, 32, 33 ; churches
at, 33, 357, 361 ; arrival of the
" Ans Northup " at, 34 ; prepara-
tions for leaving, 35-39 ; departure
of author's expedition from, 40 ;
return of expedition to, 350 ;
" The Nor' Westei- " published at,
351, 352, 364 ; meeting on re-
vivals held there, 352-355 ;
leave-takings at, 364 ; final de-
parture from, 366. For statistics,
etc., see Red River Settlement.

Geese, wild, 137, 142.

Germans in Chicago, 6.

Goats, Wild, description of, 243 ;
one stalked, and missed, 192 ;
seen on cliffs in North River
Valley — descent in the dark, 227,
228 ; searched for in vain, 238 ;
hunted — difficult climb — lake in
crater — two shot, 241-243 ; eight
seen. Bow River Valley, 249.

Grant, Rev. G., quoted, 361.

Gratitude and ingratitude, 220, 319.

Great Creek, 57.

Grosventres. See Indians.

Ground-squirrels, 70, 191.

Grouse (varieties designated Prairie-
fowl — See Prairie-fowl) ; the
Spotted or Wood-Grouse called
" Partridge," 172, 185, 186, 238,
249 ; the Dusky Grouse, called
" Partridge," 196 ; the Ruffed
Grouse, 17, 18, 249; the Ptar-
migan, 229 ; the Sharp-tailed
Grouse, 16, 17 ; the Pinnated
Grouse, 16, 17.

Guns : guns and saddle left, 8 ;
brought on, 37 ; guns and rifles
of author, 37, 38, 80, 124; of
author's party, 38, 55, 58, 183,
199; common "trade" article,
55 ; flint-locks of the half-breeds,
125 ; leather gim-covers, 181 ;

bullets of author's rifles, 38 ; uni-
versal gauge in Company's terri-
tories, 38.

Half-breeds (Hunters, Free-men,
Free-traders), few in United States,
163 ; number in Red River
Settlement in 1872, 361 ; distri-
bution of their races in settle-
ment, 32, 359, 361; characteris-
tics, 359-361; dress and appear-
ance of the men, 9, 45, 171, 182,
202-204, 233, 292, 348, 359-
361; dress and appearance of the
women, 44, 176, 348; moccasins,
9, 33, 232, 233 ; fire-bags, 39,
350 ; free-men, free-traders, 66,
139, 326, 327 ; magic, 81-83,
104; horsemanship, 45 ; compul-
sion of horses, 1 36, 302- 305 ;
dog driving, 337-340 ; carts, 13,
44 ; horse-sleds, 293 ; carioles,
334 ; snow-shoes, 316-318, 335;
125 ; gun-
hide-lines,

loading and shooting.

covers, 181;

120

hunter's knife, 164, 214 ; modes
of hunting bears, 24, 119, 206 ;
destruction of trees, 44, 251 ;
great annual buft'alo hunts, 30,
40, 361 ; gathering at White
Horse Plains, 40 ; picturesque-
ness on march, 44 ; hunters from
Carlton, and camp at Cherry Bush,
99-127: hunters in Jasper's House
District^ 176, 180.

Hamilton, 6.

Hardisty, Mr., officer in charge
at Carlton, 127 ; hospitably re-
ceives author, 127, 298 ; rides
with him to horse-guard, 129 ;
assists him in various arrange-
ments, 131 ; presents him with
moccasins and hunting-shirt, 132 ;

1:1

432

INDEX.

helps him in armiigeiueiits about
horses, 298, 299 ; ivuthor's fare-
well to, 300 ; now (1874) chief
officer of Saskatchewan district,
300.

Hare, the American, 265, 333.

Heanie, on the skunk, 136, 137.

Hector, a red water-spaniel, his
demerits, 46 ; cowardice, 56 ;
trial and execution, 65.

Hector, Dr., 153, 245, 246, 261.

Heat, extreme, near the Qu'appelle,
57, 69 ; in Qu'appelle Valley,
71 ; on Sandy Hills, near the
Elbow, 72 ; on plains near the
Boasting Hills, 92 ; in a room in
winter, 346.

Height-of-land, — between Medicine
Tent River and North River (Atha-
basca and North Saskatchewan
head- waters), 200, 201; (a cairn
raised there, 196, 201); — between
North River and watershed of
main stream of North Saskat-
chewan, 230 ; — between North
Saskatchewan and Bow River,
chief head- water of South Saskat-
chewan, 237.

Hind (H. Y.) Mr., author of Cana-
dian Exploriuff Expedition, cited
on Tetrao cupido, 17 ; on Antilo-
capra Americana, 57 ; on origin
of name Qit'(y)/;(i//e, 67 ; on source
of Aiktow River, 74 ; on feasibi-
lity of junction of South Saskat-
chewan with Red River : on
width of South Saskatchewan :
on angle of Elbow, 76, 77 ; on
Amelancliier Ca)iadeHsls, 86 ; on
dog-carioles, 334 ; map i'l his
work cited on true lines for com-
munication lietween Canada and
Pacific, 333.

Hind, Mr., an American gentleman,
met by author, 144, 263.

Hole-in-tlie-day, an Ojibway cliief,
369.

Hood's Ode to Rae Wilson, 303.

Hopkins, Mr., secretary to Sir G.
Simpson : sets out with him and
author for Far West, 5 ; visits
with tliem Minnehaha Falls, 10 ;
shares Sir George's tent, 15, 22 ;
rides a skewbald pony from Pem-
bina, 28 ; at Fort Garry, 30 ;
leaves with Sir George, — ex-
changes farewells with the author,
31 ; writes to inform author of
Sir George's death, in 1860, 31.

Horse Hill, 138, 295.

Horses. — Pdrchases and Ex-
changes OF — at St. Paul, 9,
10 — at Fort Garry, 36, 37 —
at White Horse Plains, 41,
43 — at Carlton, 130 — at Pitt,
140, 141 — at Edmont-n, 157,
158, 164— at St. Ann, 169—
with Irocpiois near Embarras
River, 183-185 — with Stonies
near Bow River, 247, 248, 260—
at Edmonton, 269 — at Carlton,
298, 299— all the horses left
at Pelly, 333. . . . Bueedino
Establishment op, at Carlton,
130 — at Pitt, 140 ; wcolly breed,
28; wild breed, 136; fatness
coimted a merit, 41 ; suffering
from insects, 57, 72, 143 ; smoke-
fires, 57, 143 ; seldom eat flowers,
73 ; supposed injury from magic,
81 ; breaking in of Lane, 135;
hobbles, 145 ; shoeing on plain or
mountain, 217 ; in boggy places,
170, 173, 186, 308 ; among fallen
trees, 187 ; one staked, 226 ;
sudden death, 226 ; fall down an
icebank, 229 ; gentleness with
children, 248 ; noosing of in an
enclosure, 299 ; " conciliation" uf
the obstinate, 303 ; drivers' Ian-

INDEX.

433

an Ojibwiiy chief,

ill bttggy places,
308 ; anions fallen

■guage, 304 ; gregarious habits,
13, 91, 130, 304 ; fate when
itrayeil, 172; mates seldom rid-
den — stallions less numerous
than geldings, 176 ; unfitness for
winter travelling, 314, 317 ; lost
during mountain journey six {see
summary, 270), — during wi.'itcr
journey two, 312, 317 ; painted
))y Indians, 58, 29f) —branded
with emblems, 157 — scented,
299 ; Blackfeet, Crees, Stonies,
Crows, Flatheads, treatment of
and quality of horses, 288, 289 ;
price of horses in 1859-60, see
under purchases and exchanges
(above) ; sometimes exchanged

for rum, 228.

Chiefly

HEFERUED TO : See Bichon, Black,
Blond, Cendro, Jasper, Morgan,
Moutonne, Rowland, Vermont,
Wawpooss.

Horse-shoeing, 128, 142, 157,217.

Horse-sleds, 293.

Hudson's Bay Company, its assist-
ance promised to author, 1,
rendered, 1-371 ; Governor-in-
Chief of its territories at date of
Journey, Sir George Simpson, 1,
31, 364 : (in 1860-62, Mr. Dallas,
364: 1862-70, Mr. Mactavish,
364.) Gentlemen in its service
chiefly referred to, see Sir George
Simpson, Messrs. Brazeau, Ca-
meron, Cardinal, Chastellain,
Christie, Fortescue, Hardisty,
Lane, Macanlay, M'Kay, Mac-
kenzie, Mactavish, Murray, Sin-
clair, Taylor ; posts chiefly re-
ferred to, see Carlton, Edmon-
ton, Ellice, Garry, Jasper's House,
Lachine, Pembina, Pelly, Pitt,
Qu'appelle, Touchwood Hills ; its
judicious management of tlie In-
dians, 326, 327, 357 ; ditference

of position towards the Indians
in its northern and southern dis-
tricts, 327 ; good laws in Red
River Settlement, 352, 357,362.
Hunters, half-breed. See half-breed.

Indians. — (Assiniboines, Blackfeet,
Blood, Chipeweyans, Creea,
Crows, Fall Indians, Flat-
heads, Irociuois, Kootanies, Man-
dans, Piegans, Saulteaux, Sioux,
Sircees.) — Assiniboines. — Mean-
ing of word, 244 ; of Sioux or
Dacotah origin, 244 ; Plain tribe

— camp and site, supposed of,
77 ; never go west of Bad Hill,
113 ; rough masters to their
horses, 299 ; Mountain tribe —
old camps near M'Leod River, 187;
small camp of, 245 ; transactions
with, 245, 249 ; their wives, 248,
249 ; consumptive imtient, 249 ;
letter in Cree characters, 250 ;
larger camp of, transactions with —
their Christianity and good conduct

— head-man presents a pipe —
preacher— loyalty — present pro-
mised to them — horses, fire-bag,
knife-sheath bought, 255, 260 ;
beauty of men's hands, 262 ;
young man's pretty wife, 262 ;
on bad terms with the Blackfeet,
262 ; let^i^ and present to, from
author, 270, 271 ; subsequent
extinction by smallpox, 271 . .
. . Blackfeet. — About to go to
war with Crees, 42 ; Nahtooss, a
chief of, 43, 272 ; war pai'ties
anticipated, 5 2 ; direction of their
country, 77, 78, 114; author's
party mistaken for, 99, 100 ; the
Bad Hill in their war-jmth, 110 ;
war parties, risks from, 118, 125 ;

\i':

7 r

r «■

434

INDEX.

Horse Hill, luittle at, wilh t'lees,
138 ; regiuil for the Eii^jUhIi— ft
luan stripiH'd of IiIh gooilH, 151 ;
a chief on polyj^'iiiuy and nun,
ir)r) ; their niUKical turn, 158 ;
liii'rot,'lyphics on a horse, 158 ;
u great warrior — Pe-toli-j)ee-kiHM,
100-102 ; three principal tribcn
of, 102 ; amiability when drunk,
103 ; faithfulness of their women,
103 ; on bad terms with the
Slonies, 262 ; their track to Ed-
monton, 267 ; amusing intrusion
of two envoys, 271, 272 : ap-
proach of tribe to pAlnumton,
272 ; hostility to Europeans,
275, 311 ; incident of war wilh
Crees,286, 287 ; their Confedera-
tion, constant warfare, horse-steal-
ing, neatness of dress, stately lan-
guage, 287, 288 ; ciro fur their
horses, 290 ; fight with the Crees
near the Elbow, 310, 311 ....
Blood Indians. — A Blackfoot
tribe, 162, 287 ; many of them
faircomplexioned, 102 ; awoman's
dress sold for rum, 288 ... .
Chipeweyans. — A northern tribe
distinct from the Chippeways or
Ojibways, 287 ; character of
language, 287 .... Crees. — '
Small camp near Fort Garry, 34, I
35 ; about to go to war with
Bl.ickfeet, 42 ; a chief's son travel-
ling with his wife, 52 ; dress
of handsome pattern, 59 ; Les
Prairies, son of Fox, a chief,
00, 03 ; ornamental whi}>, 02 ; |
name for river Qu'appelle, 07 ;
Ciunp-sites, supposed to be of, 00,

77 ; notions abotit hell and para-
dise, 71 ; friendly to Europeans, ,

78 ; their nmgic, 81-83 ; name
for Aira'lanchier ovalis, 86 ; ,
hunters from Carlton surjirise

author's camp, 09 ; Bud ilill
dangerous for, 110; emissaries
report Blackfoot war-parties, 125 ;
(Wood Crees) near Jack-fish lake,
145 ; at Pitt, 137, 130 ; Horse
Hill, battle at with Blackfcil,
13.S ; syllabic characters, 140 ;
Lajtataipie — a princii)al chief,
160 ; (puirrelsome when in li(piur,
103 ; wonu'ii, many married to
white men, 103; incident of war-
faro with Blackfeet, 280, 287 ;
character of language, 287 ; steal
horses from Blackfeet, 288 ;
rough masters to their horses,
200 ; fight with Blackfeet near
the Elbow 310-311 ; names for
animals — »SVe Descriptions of ani-
mals .... Chows. — Women
immoral, 103 ; bravery of the
warriors, 288 .... Faij, In-
dians (or Grosventues). — Of
Blackfoot race, 102, 287 ; con-
federated with the Blackfeet, 287
.... Flatheads. — Christian
and honest, 164 ; character of
language, 287 ... . Iroquois. —
Ba])tist and Toma, 5 ; Mountain
Iroqnois family, 173 — the wife
and child, 176, 177 — the child
cured of illness, 182, 183 — parted
from, 185 ; camp of hunters, 180
— dress, 182 — horses bought and
exchanged, 183-185; hunter
leaves for Jasper's House, 187 .
. . . KooTANiES. — Christian and
honest, 154 ; character of lan-
guage, 287 ... . Mandanh. —
Catlin on their bull-boats, 87 ;
Catlin on their self-tortures, 151 ;
their women immoral, 103 . .
. . Ojibways. — Drunkard met,
17 ; The Pillageurs met, and
describexl, 18, 10 ; Saultcaux, a
branch of the tribe — purty of

1 1' "^

INDEX.

435

them met ftt Pemliiim — meaning'
of till! immo, 27, 28 ; Bpoctatoirt
of iiri'ival uf Hteumer, 34 : one of
tliem visits author, 51 ; party of
at (^u'apiH'll.! Fort, 5!) ; their
head-men Spots-iii-tho-.sky and
Pointed-cap visit author'u camp
and are visited at their own, (JO-
03 ; Hometimes called C/iipjieivaijii,
but distinct from the Ckipewetjima,
287; their lanf,'uagc, 287 ; Saul-
teaux i)eaceable at Fort I'elly,
322 ; Saulteaux burn a madman
— and martyr a priest, 342 ; llole-
in-the-day, their chief, hiw drunk-
enness and his wealth, 309 ;
bravery of his predecessor, Hole-

in-the-sky (day), 370

PiMGANS. — A Blackfoot tribe,
102, 287 ... . Sioux.— War-
patii, 45 ; comparative chastity
of women, 1(33 ; adherence to old
mode of dress, 104; Assiuiboines
an oUshoot from, 244 ; anecdote,
fij,'ht with two trappers, 330 ;
rule as to Europeans, 331 . . . .
SiiiCEKS. — Of Chipeweyan race,
confederated with the Bhickfeet,
287 ; character of language, 287.
.... Indians, unclassified —
Loyalty to the Queen, 34 ; see
first steamer on Red River, 34 ;
appearance of women, 34, 44,
132, 202 ; two attacked by
bear, 110 ; women, industry of,
124, 132, 155, 308 ; hard to
convert, 154, 324 ; in regard to
polygamy, 155, 308 ; music,
158 ; rewarded for wearing
British medals, 100 ; conduct of
women, 103 ; horsemanship of
boys, 158 ; temperance society
at St. Ann, 107 ; tendency of their
supernaturalism, 108 ; notions
about the aurora, 183 ; sij,'ns

of ii change of route, 224 ;
robe of marmot skins, 231 ; art
instincts, 233 ; improvident
slaughter of game, 203, 204 ;
habit ot burning llie plains, 285 ;
characteristics of their languages,
287 ; two hunters treed by a
biar, 290 ; old woman in peril,
2!)4 ; us regards strong ilrink,
327, 367, 370 ; relations with
the Hudson's Bay Company, 320,
327, 357 ; u woman's grave at
Fort Pelly, 328 ; distaste for
missionaries' paradise, 328 ; a
mourner in solitude, 328 ; con-
stitution and health, physicians
and surgeons, 32!) ; partake of
the communion, 333 ; no oaths
in their languages, 338 ; nmuber
hi Manitoba in 1872, 301.

Insects. Hec Mos(|uitoe8, etc.

Iroquois. Hce Indians.

Isbister, Mr., 285, 293.

Jack lish lijvke, 137 ; in winter,
2)0.

Jardine, Sir William, 10.

Jasjer, a favourite black pony-
stallion, bought near the Rocky
Mountains, 184 ; investigates
shooting boots, 185 ; his merit
in swamps, 180 ; picturesfjue ap-
pearance, 205 ; steadiness, 214 ;
strength in fording Bow River,
250 ; sent on to Fort Pitt, 271 ;
hauls a sled, 305 ; exhausted by
winter journey, dies, 313.

Jasper's House, a post in the Rocky
Mountains— 145, 148, 107, 187,
215, 204.

Kane, Mr. Paul, 5, 27, 215.

.1 W

ml :

[WW

^^■'A

43fi

INDEX.

Kennedy, Mr., Fort CJurry, 130.

King, Major Uosh, 1 7.

Kingston, 4.

Kitaon, a I'ur-lrudor, 7, 8,

Klinp (Gcoi-ge), ii French Imlf-hrced
— joins author's expedition from
Fort Gurry, 35 ; characteriHtica
of, 47 ; ohservcH a wolf, 67 ;
kills a badger, 103 ; with author
to the Bad Hill, 109-117|; chases
a wounded hull, 119 ; strength
and activity, 124 ; catches old
Lane, 136 ; his cart sticks in a
creek, 136 ; apiiearance of, 203 ;
extenjporises'a tent, 244 ; mends
l)oot,etc., 267 ; takes horses to Pitt,
271 ; winter garb, 292 ; makes
the track, 302 ; becomes guide
in M'Kay's absence, 334 ; makes
snow - shoes, 335 ; humane to
sleigh - dogs — conveys message
against cruelty, 340 ; makes an
eighteen hours' journey, 347,348;
becomes guide from Fort Garry
to Crow-wins^, 364 ; makes a
fifty-eight miles' journey, 366 ;
farewell, 368.

Lac des Isles, 169, 170.

Lac de I'Oura qui nage, 298.

liUchine, 4, 5.

Lacome, Pere, of St. Ann, 1 67, 169.

La Crosse, 370.

Lagrace, a French half-breed hunter,
134 ; joins the party as a guide,
138 ; his eccentricity — method
with horse among fallen trees,
187; kills a "partridge," 195,
196 ; catches a porcupine with
Pointer, 197 ; his strange ap-
pearance and ways, 203, 204 ;
his horse drops down dead, 226 ;
searches for the track, 228 ;

attached to M'Kay's nu'ss, 247 ;

takes horses to Fort Pitt, 271 ;

strengthened by long rent, 293.
Lane, a white horse, of the wild

breed, 36, 130, 203, 247 ; his

breaking-in, 136.
Lane, Mr., White Horse Plains Fort,

40.
Lapatdquc, a Cree chief, 169.
Larches. Sec Trees.
Leaf Lake, and City, 17, 368.
Le Frain, Pfcre, St. Ann, 167, 268.
Les Prairies, a Cree, 60, 62.
Lindsay, Sir Coutts, Bart., mountain

named after, by author, 193.
Lines, making of buffalo-hide, 120.
Little Devil's Lake, 113, 136.
Livingstone, Dr., on polygamy, 156.
Lobsticks, 44, 261
Longfellow, Mr. H. W., 10.
Long Lake Creek, 69.
Long Point, 66.
Loon, diving of the, 49.
Lytton, Lord, remarks on liis My

Novel'27Q-278 ; on his Haunters

and Hmmted, 323.

Macaulay, Mr., 139, 268.

M'Beath, Morrison, a Red River
Scotsman — Joins author's expe-
dition, 35 ; characteristics of, 47 ;
chases wolf, 85, 86 ; chases wolves,
101 ; shoots two cows, 119 ;
thrown from a cart, 1 35 ; assists
in raising a cairn, 190 ; appear-
ance of, 203 ; in the " Golden Era,"
274 ; his fur-cap, 292 ; accident
happens to, 334, 335 ; his uncle,
335 ; farewell, 364.

Macdonald, Mr., Fort Pelly, 323.

M'lntosh, Mr., 27.

M'Kay, Mr., Fort EUice, 50-63.

Mackay, James, a Red River guide

INDKX.

437

Kiiy'n iiu'MH, 247 ;

) Fdtt Pitt, 271 ;

^ ltmj( rent, 203.

jiHO, of tlio wild

), 203, 247 ; his

Iloi'rte Plains Fort,

1 chief, 160.

168.

ity, 17, 3(58.

t.Ann, 107, 268.

Be, 60, 62.

ts, Bnrt., mounttiin

^ author, 103.

buffalo-hide, 120.

:e, 113, 136.

an polygamy, 15G.

I. W., 10.

. 60.

he, 40.
marks on

his My

\ ; on his Haunters
J23.

\9, 268.

, a Red River
lis author's expe-

acteristics of, 47 ;

80 ; chases wolves,
two cows, 110;

cart, 135 ; assists
irn, 100 ; appear-

the« Golden Era,"
), 202 ; accident

1, 335 ; his uncle,

304.

ort Pelly, 323.

EUice, 50-53.
Red River guide

— IcadH a party from Hod River,
8 ; meets Sir G, Simpson and
author at St. Anthony, ^ ; h\n ap-
pt'/iranco ami charH^toristics, 8, ;
awaits Sir George til Grow-wing,
12 ; energy as a guide and voya-
gcur, 14, 23, '27 ; chooses camp,
at Crow-wing River, 15 ; shoots
ducks, etc., with Dr. Rmi, 16 ;
shakes ofl" a-i insolent Ojibway,
18 ; extemporines a hut, 22 ;
makes an oilskin scow, 23 ;
runs and shoots a bear, 24 ;
arranges crossing of Red Lake
River, 26 ; carries Sir George
across Vieux Marais, 28 ; sells
horses to author, 37 ; meets
author and drives him to Fort
Garry, 340, 350.
Mackay, John, a Red River guide,
brother of James Mackay —
engaged as head man of authors
party, 35 ; brings author's, gun-
cases, etc., from St. Paul, 37 ; his
serviceable gun, 38 ; his charac-
teristics, 47 ; tries Bichon, 50 ;
rides with author to Qu'appelle
Fort, 51 ; makes axle-trees, 64 ;
shoots at target, 5 5 ; interprets at
Ojibway Camp, 01 ; shoots Hec-
tor, 65 ; shoots a wolf in camp,
68 ; runs wolf with author, 7 1 ;
consulted as to route, 78 ; runs
buffalo with author, 80 ; tells
titles of Indian magic, 81, 82 ;
wounds a fine cabrec, 84 ; his
gun misses fire at a bull, 84 ;
runs a bull with Duncan, 85 ;
runs buffalo with author, 01, 02 ;
stones a sleeping wolf, 102 ; tries
Morgan as a runner, 110 ; fin-
ishes a bull, 110 ; wounds a
wolf, 123 ; his strength of arm,
124 ; rides with author to
Carlton horse - guard, 120 —

and to Pitt liorse-guiutl, 130 ;
altern horse-Hhoea, 142 ; sk'tots a
female wolf, 142 ; tracks a strayed
horse, 172 ; makes too hurried a
start, 188 ; stalks sheep and
goat, 101, 102 ; helps to raise a
rairn, 106 ; his appeiranco and
dress, 202 ; shoots several fine
rams, 212-215 ; discissions and
explanations with, 224, 226 ;
left behind for the uight, 244 ;
interprets, etc., at camp of
Assiniboines, 247 ; makes carts
and harness, 257 ; runs bear with
author, 265 ; inspects horses
260 ; forms one of crew of
" Golden Era," 274 ; has a
slight illness, 270 ; reports on
ice-dam in river, 281 ; makes a
draught-board, 281 ; rides for-
ward to Pitt with author, 286 ;
his win Lor attire, 202 ; runs
foxes in the snow, 306, 307 ; even-
ing in author's tent, 315 ; goes
in advance to Fort Pelly, 321 ;
remains at Fort Pelly, 334 ; re-
joins author at Fort Garry, 362 ;
farewell, 364.

^Mackenzie, Mr., of Pembina, death
and funeral of, 355, 356.

Mackenzie, Mr. and Mrs., Lachine, 4.

Mackenzie, Mr., Manitobah, 345.

Mackenzie River, short days at, 336.

M'Leod River, a tributary of the
Athabasca, its width and charac-
ter, 175 ; author's party in its
neighbourhood, 175-100.

Mactavish, Mr., officer in charge at
Fort Garry, 30 ; appointed Go-
vernor of Assiniboia in 1860,
and Governor-in-Chief of the
Hudson's Bay Company's terri-
tories in 1862, 364 ; renders
great help to author, 31 ; writes
to author in 1860, 208 ; ex-

; e

mm^

iiii

438

INDEX.

changes farewells with him, 364 ;
sorrowful notice of his death in
1870, 364, 365,

Madison, 6.

Magic, Indian, 81, 82,

Mandans, the. See Indians.

Manitoba, i>rovince of, population
in 1872, 361.

Manitobah Fort, 345,

Manitobah Lake, origin, meaning,
and .iccentiiation of name, 345 ;
quality, of its ice, 342 ; its .shores,
342 ; its size, 345 ; partj' cross
a wide bay of, 344 ; arrive at
Manitobah Fortj 345 ; travel on
ice to Mr. Monkman's house, 346 ;
cross Oak Point and leave lake at
south-east corner, 347.

Marmots of the Rocky Mountains,
230, (also see Siffleur) ; Parry's
described, 231 ; small variety
described, 230.

Matheson, Donald, a Red River
Scotsman, joins author's expedi-
tion, 35 ; characteristics of, 47 ;
with author in search of deer,
48 ; relates stories about Indiiin
magic, 81-83 ; ferries author
across Saskatchewan, 89 ; unwell,
170 ; his horse disturbs a wasp's
nest, 174 ; amused by Tonia's
wit, 200 ; appearance of, 202,
203 ; unwell, 236, 237 ; left
behind for a night, 244 ; for-
merly with Captain BlakiHtt)n,
257 ; shoes horses for Americun
travellers, 263 ; in the " GnUcn
Era," 274 ; hardy winter journey,
274, 282 ; expostulations with
horse, 304 ; h(;lps Condre for-
ward, 319 ; farewell, 364,

^ledicine. Sec Magic.

Medicine-men, Indian, 329.

Medicine Tent River, an Athaliasca
liead-water, 193, 221 ; magnifi-

cent scenery of the valley, 194 ;
name indicates magic and mystery
201 ; district not previously
visited by any European, 201 ;
mountains of, similar in compo-
sition to the rock-formations near
Edinburgh, 201.

Meesasskootoom-meena berry {Ame-
hmchier oraliii), 86, 87, 301,

Meteor, a, 224.

Michigan, Lake, 6.

Milwaukie, 6.

Minnehaha Falls, 10, 11.

Miry Creek, 14.

Mi.'isions, — adult Indians slow to ac-
cept Christianity, 154, 324 ; mis-
sionaries too strict as regards
polygamy, 155 ; their views as
to Heaven distasteful, 328, Pro-
testant — Missionaries sometimes
of the wi'ong class, 167 ; success
of Rev. Mr. Woolsey and other
Wesleyan missionaries among
Asshiiboines, 150, 245, 258,
355 ; Wesleyan Mission fund,
large subscription to, 150 ;
Rev. Mr. Settee's converts, 333.
Roman Catholic — Success of
Father de Smet among Kootanies
and Flatlieads, 154 ; mission a^
St. Ann prosperous and u.seful,
167-169 ; priest martyred by
Saulteaux, 342 ; mi,<sion at Oak
Point, 347.

.Mississipjii, the, (i, 7, 11, 14, 370.

Moberly, Mr., 166.

^loccasins, 9, 33, 131 ; described,
232, 233.

^lonlvinan, Mr., lios2)itably enter-
tains author's party, 346.

Moutonne, a very old white mare,
1S4, 186, 214, 255, 270,

Moon — moonrise in the Rocliy
Mountains, 214, 224 — opjiosite
sun.'<et, 2(i8 — over mountains ot

INDEX.

439

of the valley, 194 ;
'S magic ami niystery
ct not previously
ly European, 201 ;
', similar in conipo-
•ock-t'ormations near
01.

-meona berry (Ame-
>•), 8G, 87, 301.

(J, 7, 11, 14, 370.

}, 131 ; described,

hospitably eutcr-
party, 34(5.
y ohl wliite nuuv,
t, 255, 270.

in tlic Rix'lvy
14, 224 — opposite
over mountains ol'

Jack-fish Lake, 296 ; rainbow
round, 224, 267, 318 ; eclipse of,
368.

Moose Creek, 284.

Moose, meat of, 181, 251 ; tracks
of seen, 186, 237 ; three shot by
the Stonies, 245, 246.

Morgan, a favourite bay pony, bred
in Vermont, — his beauty and
merits, 10, 13, 19, 37 ; strays,
45 ; astonished by a dog-train,
63 ; breaks away, 90 ; tried as a
buffalo - rimner, 119; brings a
swift cow to bay, 120, 122 ;
thin and worn, 127 ; left at
Carlton, 129 ; attacked by the
horse epidemic : finally left at
Carlton, 298.

Mosquitoes, 19, 25, 46, 48, 57, 68,
69, 115, 133, 134, 138, 143,
166, 195 ; classified, 67.

" ^fountain wliere the water falls,"
249.

Munroe, Piskan,a Scotch half-breed :
to be engaged as interpreter, being
connected with the Blackfeet, 1 6 4 ;
shoots ducks, 171 ; shoots a sif-
fleui-, 192 ; shoots a fine lam,
199, 200 ; his appearance, 203 ;
meets author witli horses, 220 ;
question regarding his function
as a guide, 225 ; taken ill, 237 ;
farewell, 269.

Murchison, Mount, height of, 252.

Murray, James, 5,

Murray, Mr., officer in cliarge at
Fort Pelly (for many j-ears resi-
dent in the Missouri country,330),
sends his dog-cariole to meet
author, 321 ; hospitably receives
him, 322 ; .and gives him infor-
mation relative to the Indians,
etc. ,326,331 ; shoots a ^. olverine,
324 ; receives author's horses for
the Company, 333 ; accepts from

him Ned, a favourite i)ony, 332.
Music, Indian, 158, 245.
Musk-rats, 264.
Muskegs (bogs), 173.

Nahtooss, a Blackfoot, 43, 272.

Xapesskes, a Cree half-breed, runs
buffalo with author, 104, 105 ;
guides the expedition to Bad Hill,
108-118 ; risks his scalp in so
doing, 110; his peculiar dress,
108 ; hunts grisly bears with
author, 111-113 ; stalks buffalo
on foot, 114, 115 ; rides a vio-
lent young horse, 130.

New York, 2, 370, 371.

Niagara, Falls of, 3, 4.

North Eiver, a North Saskatche-
wan headwater, its valley and
branches, 193, 201, 221, 223,
230 ; the brigade's picturesque
appearance passing into its valley,
202-205; Mount Dalhousie, 222 ;
beautiful sceneiy, 223 ; counter-
marclies, sudden death of a horse,
224-227 ; difficult cliiub over
height-of land to waterslied of
Nortli Saskatcliewan, 228-230.

Norway House, 31.

Nor' -Wester, Tlie, the first newspaper
started at Fcjrt Garry, 351, 362.

Numme, Pierre, a French half-breed,
engaged as a guide, 52 ; his ap-
pearance, 53, 54 ; his gun-doctor-
ing, 55 ; cabree - stalking with
author, his cutting-up fi-at, 56 ;
cabree-stalking with autlu)!', 60 ;
disputes his contract, 78 ; little
Icnowledge of road, 90 ; buffalo-
running, 91 ; ambushes a young
bull, 95 ; witli author to Bad
Hill, 108; bear - hunting, 111-
113; buffalo-stalking, 115 ; with

■ir

'fi'K'

:^ I 1

440

INDEX.

author, finds and skins bear, 114-
117 ; paid off at Carltoi;, takes
care of number-one, 1 30.
Nunnery at Fort Garry, visit to,
32, 33 ; its situation, 361.

Oak Point, on Lake Manitobah, 437-
Oaks. See Trees.
Ojibways. See Indians.
Ontario, Lake, 4.

Otter-tail Lake, 18, 367, 368 ;
source of the Red Eiver, 368.

Palliser, Captain, 9, 131, 215, 269,
275.

Partridge. See Grouse.

Pedlar, an American, 25.

Pelicans, 20.

Pelly, Fort, Mr. ^Murray officer
in charge, 321 ; agriculture
and cattle, 323 ; author's arrival,
stay, conversations with Mr.
jNIurray and Rev. Mr. Settee,
engagement of dog-trains, de-
parture, 321-334.

Pembina, 27, 366.

Pembina River, 170.

Pemmican, described, 301, 302 ;
stores run short, 100 ; more ob-
tained at Carlton, 133 ; excellent
obtained at St. Ann, 1 69 ; made
of mountain sheep, 176 ; stores
run short, 245, 268 ; mi.xed with
Saskootoom berries, 3(tl ; chief
food of party, 3 1 5 ; ninety-pound
bag drops on M'Beath's foot,
334.

Pe-toh-pee-kiss, a I'lackfoot, 160 d
seq.

Pheasants. See Prairio-fowl.

Piegans. Sec Indians.

Pigeons, passenger, 26, 58, 171.

Pike Creek, 207.

Pillage Creek, whence the name, 19.

Pine River, 26.

Pines. See Trees.

Pitt, Fort, on the North Saskatche-
wan, described, 139 ; Messrs.
Macaulay and Sinclair in charge,
139 ; ]\Ir. Chastellain in charge,
285 ; Mr. Simpson once in charge,
42 ; its agriculture, 286 ; men
employed there, 285 ; scarcity of
pro%asions, 100, 133, 255, 285 ;
author's arrival, stay, visit to the
horse-guard, departure, 139-
141 ; horses brought from there,
282 ; author's return, stay, con-
versations with Mr. Chastellain,
winter clothing and horse-sleds
obtained, departure, 285-293.

Pointed-cap, an Ojibway, 61, 62.

Pointer, a black pointer, 53 ;
turns from a wolf at bay, 56 ;
worries a dying comrade, 65 ;
persecuted by mosquitoes, 68 ;
chased by a wolf in camp, 68 ;
in fits from the heat, and run
over by cart, 72 ; attacks a
wouiided wolf, 86 ; unluckily in-
vades author's tent, 133 ; jealous
of AVhisky, 135 ; active in catch-
ing ducks, 142 ; unfortunate in
catching a porcupine, 197 ;
suflers from the cold, 269.

Polygamy among the Indians, 155,
156, 308.

Porcupine {llystrix pilosus), 195,
197, 200.

Prairie du Cliien, (!.

Pi'airie-fowl, varieties so designated
{Telrao aijiido, Tdrao jiliaxiaii-
rlliis, Tcliao unthellvH), tlieii' claims
considered, 16, 17 ; shot by
the party in Red river district,
16, 23 ' (239) ; in Saskatche-

INDEX.

441

r, 26, 58, 171.
euce the name, 19.

North Saskatche-
tl, 139 ; Messrs.
Sinclair in charge,
stellain in charge,
)8on once in charge,
ilture, 286 ; men
}, 285 ; scarcity of
:), 133, 255, 285 ;
1, stay, visit to the
departure, 139-
rought from there,

retiirn, stay, con-
1 Mr. Chastelhiin,
g and horse-sleds
rturc, 285-293.
>jibway, 61, 62.
ck pointer, 53 ;
wolf at bay, 56 ;
ng comrade, 65 ;

mosquitoes, 68 ;

olf in camp, 68 ;

le heat, and run

72 ; attacks a

6 ; unluckily in-

:cnt, 133 ; jealous

active in catch-

UTifortunate in

wrcupine, 197 ;
cold, 269.
R" Indians, 155,

ix pilosus), 195,

ics so designated

Tdrao 2)liadan-

2//('.s), their claims

17 ; shot by
ed river district,

in Saskatche-

wan district, 145, 268 (239) ;
Rocky Moim tains, 264. Hce
Grouse.

Presbyterian, Scottish settlers mostly
80, 357 ; church near Fort Garry,
33 ; minister, 353, 357 ; in-
fluences, 33, 42, 144.

Protestant. See Episcopalian, Pres-
byterian, Missions, Red River
Settlement, etc.

Ptarmigan, The {Tetrao [La</opus]
MutKs), 228, 229. See Grouse.

Puma, The, 207, 208.

Purdey, Mr., excellent pair of rifles
belonging to author, made by,
37, 49, 60, SO, etc. ; pair of shot-
guns by, 38, 91, 125, etc.

Qu'appelle Fort, its superintendent,
Mr. Cardinal, meets author, 59 ;
author's arrival — stay — visits to
and from Ojibways, 59-64 ; de-
jiarture, 65 ; to be conjoined with
Touchwood Hills Fort, 313.

Qu'appelle River, valley of the, 66 ;
origin of the name, 67 ; source
of, 76.

Queen Victoria, portrait of — loyalty
of Indians, 34, 260.

Rabbits. See Hare.

Rae, Dr., meets Sir George Simpson
and author at Toronto, 5 ; his
Arctic expedition — reference to it
in Mr. Ballantyne's Hudson's Buy,
5 ; joins Sir George's party, 9 ;
sets out from Crow- wing, 13 ;
shares tent with author, 15, 21 ;
shoots prairie-fowl, etc., 16 ; at
Fort Garry, 30 ; renders great
help to author, 3 1 ; visits nunnery
with author, 32, 33.

Raven's nest, 69, 139.

Red Deer Hill, 138, 293 ; River,

264, 265.
Red Lake River, 24, 25.
Red River, distant view of, 20 ;
crossings of, 29 ; Fort Garry on
its banks, 32 ; divides the popu-
lation of settlement, 32, 361 ;
first steamer on, 34 ; feasibility
of connnunication with South
Saskatchewan, 76 ; Otter-tail Lake
its source, 368.
Red River Settlement — Fort Garry
its capital, 2 ; a Red River
man, 8, 9 ; Fort Garry, and dis-
tribution of population in its
vicinity, 30-32 ; Protestant and
Roman Catholic bishops, 32, 352 ;
first steamer seen there, 34 ; terri-
tory likely to gravitate to United
States, 332 ; first newspaper pub-
lished there, 352 ; administration
of law, 352, 357, 362; cattle,
agriculture, drainage, wood, la-
bour, 358, 359 ; population and
its distribution, 32, 359-362 ;
population in 1872, 361 ; notices
of winter climate, 351, 356, 362;
fire-bags of half-breeds (illustra-
tions), 39, 350.
Red River, Little, 19.
Richardson, Sir John, zoological
notes of, on — Prairie-Fowl, 16,
17; Passenger Pigeon, 26; Skunk,
49 ; Prong-horned Antelope, 57 ;
American Wolf, 65, 66, 152 ;
Fish in the Saskatchewan, 87,
88; Bison or Buffalo, 91, 103;
Black-tailed Deer, 113; Prairie
Wolf, 122 ; Spotted Grouse, 172 ;
Siflleur, 191 ; Dusky Grouse,
196 ; Canada Porcupine, 197 ;
Rocky Mountain Sheep, 210,
215; Cynthia Cardui, 222 ; Crow,
223 ; Ptarmigan, 229 ; Little

li c

A 1

i 1 ^

r m

442

INDEX.

Chief Hare, 230 ; Parry'H Marmot,
231 ; Flying-Siiuiirel, 234; Rocky
Mountain Goat, 243 ; RufFed
Grouse, 249 ; Musk-Rut, 264 ;
American Hare, 265 ; Sand-Rat,
266 ; Wolverine, 325.

Rifles. Sec Guns.

Roasting Hills, 103, 113.

Robertson. See Duncan.

Rochester, 3.

Rocky Mountains, author's route to
arranged, 148, 167 ; (pack-saddles
replace carts, 1 48) ; far off glimpse,
172 ; distant view of two peaks,
178 ; view of range, and descrip-
tion {sec illustration), 180 ; out-
skirts of, M'Leod and Embarras
Rivers, 186, 187. Entrance
Gorge, 189 ; camp in glen, 190 ;
camp among magnificent heights,
192 ; Mount Lindsay {see illus-
tration), 193. Medicine Tent
Valley — mountains described
{see illustration), rivers, trees,
194,195 ; Southesk's cairn, 196,
201 ; never before visited, 201 ;
topography, formation, colouring,
201, 202 ; camp in Medicine
Tent Valley {see illustration),
195-200. Valley of North
River entered, 202 ; sheep-hunt-
ing, 210-217 ; snow storm, 217 ;
topography, 221 ; fossils, ^93,
221 ; Mount Dalhousie {see illus-
tration), 222 ; vast rocks like
blocks of masonry, 223; lioight-
of-land crossed, 229, 230. Koo-
TANiE Plain, North Saskatch-
KWAN, 235 ; height-of-land
crossed, 237 ; larches and tirs, 238 ;
goat-hui ting, 240-243 ; lake in a
crater, 2-i2. Bow Rivkr, 244 ;
Assiniboiuc (small) camp, 244-
249; stone -flat on summit of
mountain, 246 ; Mountain-where-

the-Water-falls, 249 ; Bow Val-
ley, its large pines, 250 ; Old
Bow Fort, 252, 254 ; altitude of
the mountains and valleys, 252,

253 ; drawbacks to sport, 253 ;
gloom of the valleys, 228, 254 ;
outskirts, — hills, plains, trees,

254 ; heavy gales, 254, 256 ;
departure from, carts replace pack-
saddles, 256, 257.

Rolette, M., Pembina, 367.
Roman Catholics. See Catholics.
Rowand, Mr., his house, 349.
Rowland, Uv., Fort Pitt, 140, 141.
Rowland, a roan horse, 141, 145,

174, 178, 229, 269.
Rum. Sec Spirituous liquors.
Rupert's Land, Bishop of. See

Anderson.

Saddle, author's left behind, 8 ;
brought on by John Mackay, 37.

Saddles, Spanish, 10, 39, 45.'

St. Ann, mission-house of, 167-169.

St. Anthony, 8, 370.

St. James's, on the Assiniboine, 33,
362.

St. Lawrence, the, 4.

St. Paul, Minnesota, 7, 37, 370.

Salt liake, 48 ;— near Carlton, 298.

Saltness, of lakes, 74, 90 ; of
swamps, 308 ; of Lake Winnepagos,
345.

Sandflies, 46, 67.

Sandhill River, 23.

Sand-rat, The, 266.

Sandy Hills, the, 71.

Saskatchewan River, — pronuncia-
tion and meaning of name, 47 ;
lish inhabiting, 87, 88. North
Branch op Saskatchkwan, char-
acter at Elbow, 127 ; breadth
at Pitt, 139 ; breadth and charac-
ter at Edmonton, 146 ; source and

INDEX.

443

e Assiiiiboinc, 33,

Lake Winnepagus,

course of Nortli River,ahead-water
of, 201, 221 ; Kootanie Plain,
breailth there, 23G ; (N. Sask.)
Klbow reached, 127; crossed at
Carlton, 129, 132— at Titt, 139
— at Edmonton, 146 ; a supposed

River, a head-

head-water of crossed, 193 ; val-

230; heii;ht-of-

ley of North
water of, 200,
land passed, 230 ; N. Sask.
crossed at Kootanie Plain, 236 ;
lieight-of-land dividing from Bow
River (S. Sask.) watershed
passed, 237 ; down N. Sask.
in a boat, 273 ; frozen in.

274 ; camp by river.

274-282 ;
293, 298.

crossed on the ice
South Branch of Saskat-
chewan, — Breadth and character
at Elbow, 75 ; Mr. Hind's esti-
m.ite of breadth, 76 — of angle of
Elbow, 77 ; feasibility of junc-
tion with Red River, 76 ; charac-
ter below Elbow, 79 ; breadth
there, 86 ; crossed by herd of
buffalo, 78 ; crossed by author's
party, 89 ; Bow River, its chief
head-water, reached, 244; S.
Sask. crossed on the ice - — its
breadth, 301. Saskatchewan
District. — Arjriculhire — Edmon-
ton, 148— Pitt, 286 — Carl-
ton, 300 — Bow River, 260 ;
(incincj, — Carlton, 129, 133 —
Pitt, 140, 286— St. Ann, 168;
district becoming useless to the
Comjtany, 185 ; colony might be
formed there, 286 ; S. Sask.
River probably ere long boundary
with United States, 332 ; chain
of settlements on N. Sask. River
suggested, 332 ; N. Sask. River
best comnumication between
Canada and Pacific, 333 ; (district)
peculiarities of dress in, 171,
233 ; James M'Kay lielongs

to, 8 ; Mr. Christie chief oflicer
of in 1859-60, 268 ; Mr. Hardisty
chief officer of in 1874, 300.

Saskatchewan, Little, 47.

Saulteaux (Ojibways). See Indians.

Saux Rapids, 11, 368.

Sawyer, Colonel, Otter-tail, 367.

Scarcity of provisions in author's
camp, 245, 268.

Schoolcraft, Mr., 9, 15, 18, 19,
370.

Scottish settlers. See Red River,
Fort Garry.

Scott, Sir Walter, — his heroei^, 279.

Scow (or skift'), a barge, 14, 50, 129 ;
cart-wheel, 22, 23.

Seneca Lake, 3, 4.

Settee, Rev. Mr., Fort Pelly, 323,
324, 328, 333.

Shakespeare, plays read on various
occasions, 54, 64, 135, 137, 146,
189, 218, 235, 245, 313, 336;
remarks on " Titus Andronicus,"
218 — on " Merchant of Venice,"
235 ; his balancing of good and
evil in his characters, 219, 278 ;
" Troilus and Cressida " quoted,
314. (For remarks at length on
several plays see Appendix.)

Shayenne, river, 20.

Sheep, Wild, description of, 210 ;
plentiful in parts of the Rocky
Mountains, 167, 180 ; seen, 191 ;
I'we shot, 196 ; ewes, etc., shot,
198, 199 ; ram shot by Mun^'oe,
200 ; ewes and two rams shot,
205, 206 ; twelve rams shot,
•209-214 ; very fine ram leaps
off rock, 213 ; measurements of
heads, 215, 216 ; rams ascend
precipice, 231 ; five ewes shot,
232 ; ewe shot, 236 ; ewe falls
over cliff, 240 ; labour of pur-
suit, 253 ; Indian woman's dress
of skin, 288.
Shoal Luke, 49.

444

INDEX.

> 1

'i'\y

>■?!;

I S;:i= .]{'

' t

K t

Short, James, a Scotcli lialf-breed :
drivea cart from Crow-wing, 13 ;
joins author's expedition, 35 ;
characteristics of, 47 ; his skill
with gun or bow, 58 ; brings in
cow, 122 ; chases wolves, 101 ;
winner in the marrow-bone game,
101, 102; pelts a badger, 103;
shoots ducks, 142; appearance
of, 203 ; meets a grisly, 206 ;
shoots wild swans, 265 ; in the
" Golden Era," 274 ; hardy winter
journey, 274, 282 ; skill in find-
ing track, 297 ; makes the track,
302 ; reproves a horse, 304 ;
farewell, 364.

SifHeur, The {Arctomys pruinosus),
described, 191 ; its whistle heard
in the moimtains, 191 ; shot by
Munroe, 192; quality of its
meat, 192 ; shot by author, 198,
230.

Simpson, Mr., 42, 43.

Simpson, Sir George, governor of
the Hudson's Bay Company, 1 ;
author welcomed by, at Lachine,
4 ; sets out with author on jour-
ney to Far West, 5 ; arrives at St.
Paul — disturbed by rumours of
floods — starts suddenly for Fort
Garry, 7 ; returns, 8 ; goes with
author to Minnehaha Falls, 10 ;
sets out finally for Fort Garry,
11 ; travels in a Canadian cait,
13 ; occupies one of the tents
with Mr. Hopkins, 15 ; encounters
the Pillageurs at Otter-tail, 18 ;
his tent defies the thunderstorm,
22 ; saluted at Pembina by Saul-
teaux Indians, discourages their
importunity, 27 ; carried across
the Vieux Marais by James
Mackay, 28 ; arrives at Fort
Gariy, 29 ; departs for Norway
House, 31 ; renders invaluable
assistance to author, 31 ; ex-

changes with him farewells, 31 ;
sorrowful notes of his death in
1860, 31 ; reference to his death,
364.

Sinclair, Mr., Fort Pitt, 139, 141.

Sioux. See Indians.

Sircees. See Indians.

Skidor, Scandinavian, 317, 318.

Skunk, The, described, 49; odour
of, 136; meat of, 175.

Smalljiox, ravages of, 271, 287.

Smoke-fires, 57, 143.

Smoke Tent Wood, 315.

Snake (Snakehill) River, 25, 367.

Snow-shoes, 302, 314, 335 ; de-
scription of, 316, 317.

Southesk, Earl of, advised to go to
Hudson's Bay Territories for sport
and healthy climate, 1 ; sails in
the Africa for New York, 2 ;
thence travels by Niagara, 3 ; to
Lachine, 4 ; where he meets Sir
George Simpson, governor of the
Hudson's Bay Company's Terri-
tories, 4. He sets out thence with
Sir George for Fort Garry, 5 ;
travels by rail and Mississippi
steamer to St. Paul, Minnesota,
7 ; (where the party is joined by
Dr. Rae, 9) ; stays there a few
days, 7-11 ; travels by stage wag-
gon to Crow-wing, 12 ; thence
rides across the plains to Fort
Garry, 13-29 ; where he parts
from Sir George, 3l ; and stays a
fortnight engaging men, buying
horses, and organising an expedi-
tion to the Far West, 30-39. He
sets out thence, and travels due
west, 40 ; arrives at Fort Ellice
on the Assiniboine, 50 ; thence
proceeds across the plains, shoot-
ing ".-'.brees, ducks, etc., to Qu'ap-
p^i'i' i^ort, 59 ; where he meets
with a band of Ojibways, 59-63 ;
continues due west, shoots a few

INDEX.

445

buffalo bulls, etc., arrives at the
Indian Elbow, 65-74 ; crosses the
South Saskatchewan lower clown,
89 ; falls in with a vast herd of
buffalo, and has good sport near
Eagle Creek, 91-103 ; and after-
wards at Cherry Bush, where he
camps near a band of hunters
from Carlton, 103-126 ; makes
an excursion to the Bad Hill,
(never before visited by a Euro-
pean), and shoots buffaloes and a
grisly bear, 108-118 ; travels to
Fort Carlton, 1 29 ; and thence
by Fort Pitt, 139 ; to Fort Ed-
monton, the principal post of
the Saskatchewan district, 147 ;
where he stays a few days, pre-
paring for an expedition to the
Rocky Mountains, 147-165. He
sets out, 166 ; visits Eoman
Catholic Mission of Lake St. Ann,
167 ; travels through a swampy
and thickly-wooded country to
the M'Leod River (a tributary of
the Athabasca), 169-175 ; meets
with a band of Iroquois himters,
180 ; leaves the Jasper's House
track, 187 ; proceeds up the Em-
barras River through an unfre-
quented country, 185-188 ; enters
the moimtains, 189 ; arrives at
the magnificent valley of the
Medicine Tent River, a chief
head-water of the Athabasca (a
place never before visited by a
European), 193 : erects a cairn
on a mountain at the head of that
valley, 196,201 ; passes into the
valley of the North River (a large
head-water of the North Sas-
katchewan), 202 ; has excellent
sport among the mountain sheep,
209-217 ; descends tlie valley,
223 ; subsequently ascends, and
tracks to its source, one of the

branches of the river (the horses
being taken over great obstacles,
229), 225-230 ; and passes to
the watershed of the main
stream of the North Saskatche-
wan, 220 ; proceeds to that
stream, and travels up its course
to Kootanie Plain, 235 : rafts
across the North Saskatchewan
there, 236 ; passes over a heigh t-
of-land to a tributary of the Bow
River, 237 ; near which shoots
mountain sheep and goats, 238-
243 ; descends to the Bow River
(the main head-water of the South
Saskatchewan), 244 ; obtains sup-
plies there from a small camp
of Christian Assiniboines (or
Stonies), 245-249 ; and after-
wards from a larger camp, at Old
Bow Fort, at the point where the
river leaves the mountains, 254-

260 ; proceeds across the plains,

261 ; and arrives at Fort Edmon-
ton (where'sigus of winter appear),
268-272. He embarks in a boat,
intending to go down the North
Saskatchewan to Carlton, 273 ; a
snow-storm arises, 274 ; and the
river is suddenly frozen up, 274 ;
men are despatched to Fort Pitt
for horses, he meanwhile passes a
fortnight on the river bank, 274-
282 : horses arrive, 282 ; he
proceeds to Fort Pitt, 285 ; and
thence to Fort Carlton, 298 :
continues the journey on horse-
back (men and horses suffering
much from the cold), 301 ; halts a
day at Touchwood Hills, 309-31 1 ;
arrives at lengtli at Fort Pelly,
r.oar the river Assiniboine, 321 ;
and stays there a fortnight, 322-
333. Dog-sleighs are procured,
he resumes his journey, 334 ;
travels to Duck Pay Post, 340 ;

t- I

416

INDEX.

thence on tlie ice ot' Winnepagos
and Manitobah Lakes, to Mr.
Monkmau'a house, 346 ; thence
to White Horse Phiins, 348 ;
next day arrives at Fort Garry,
3.")0 ; — where he remains fdr
a fortnight, 351-365. He again
sets out, 366 ; and travels with
dog-sleighs to . Cnnv-wing, near
the Mississippi, 368 ; thence by
stage-waggon to St. Paul, 370 ;
after whicli by stage and rail to
New York, 370. He passes a
few days tliere, then returns in
the Etna to England, 371.

Southesk's Cairn, 196, 201.

Spirituous liquors, small quantity
of in author's stores, 36 ; all left
at Carlton, 131 ; merits of, con-
trasted with those of tea, 177,
208, 209 ; love of Indians for,
155, 163, 288, 329, 357 ; their
abuse, drunkenness uf Imlians,
17, 128, 163, 327, 328, 357,
369 ; ruin brought to Indians by
free trade in, 326, 327 ; never
used by the Hudson's Bay Com-
jiany as a medium of tratlic witli
Indians, — not aUowed to enter
tlie northern districts, 327 ; laws
at Fort Garry regulating trade in,
352, 357, 358.

Spot-on-a-Saddle Lake, 283.

Spots-in-the-sky, an Ojibway, 61,62.

Springs, The, 136, 297.

Spur, wooden, 176.

Stalkers, memoranda for, 239.

Stars, 170, 183, 224, 263, 274,
281, 297, 305; horses' eyes
shining like stars, 190.

Stonies (Assiniboines). See Indians.

Stony Valley, 69.

Strawberries, wild, 90, 135.

Sturgeon Creek, 40, 349 ; — near St.
Ann, 169.

Sun— two false suns, 308 ; sunshine,

on a burnt j)ine-forest, 177 — on
the mountains, 180 — in the deep
mountain valleys, 228,254 — on
snowy hills, 297 ; sunset, at
Qu'api)elle Fort, 64 — near Fort
EdmontdU, 146 — near the M'Leod
River, 177 — opposite nioonrise,
267, 296.

Superior, Lake, 7.

Surgical cases, Indian cures, 329.

Swan Creek, 14 ; Lake, 336.

Swans, wild, 264, 265.

Sykes, Sir Francis, Bart., 343, 344.

Tache, Bishop of St. Boniface, 32,
352.

Tait, a half-breed, leader of a
party of hunters from Fort Carl-
ton, surprises author's camp, 99 ;
author's party camp near his at
Cherry Bush, 104 ; brings his
child to visit author, 104 ; shoots
a grisly bear, 119 ; travels with
author to Carlton, 126 ; rides
with him to horse-guard there,
129 ; author visits Mrs. Tait,
131.

Target practice, 54, 55, 58.

Taylor, Rev. Mr., 34, 362.

Taylor, Mr., Touchwood Hills 309.

Taylor, a half-breed voyageur, drives
author's dog-cariole from Fort
Pelly — checks a frost-bite, 336 ;
his vocabulary, 337, 338 ; good-
natured to his dogs, 340 ; makes
eighteen hours' journey to White
Horse Plains, 347, 348.

Tea, 14, 35, 131, 177, 209.

Thick Brush Creek, 173.

Thunderstorms, 21, 28, 45, 46, 48,
50, 54, 57, 65, 96, 145, 172,
176, 186.

Timber. See Trees.

Tobacco, 36, 60, 217.

INDEX.

447

-forest, 177 — on
80 — in the deep
H, 228, 254--011
97 ; sunset, at
04 — near Fort
-near tlieM'Leod
posite moonrific,

an cures, 329.

.ake, 33G.

205.

Bart., 343, 344.

3t. Boniface, 32,

lI, leader of a
from Fort Carl-
tlior's camp, 99 ;
amp near his at
104 ; brings his
lior, 104 ; shoots
19 ; travels with
;on, 126 ; rides
)rse-guard thei'e,
isits Mrs. Tail,

, 55, 58.

J4, 362.

wood Hills 309.

. voyageur, drives

riole from Fort

, frost-bite, 336 ;

337, 338 ; good-

ogs, 340 ; makes

Hiurney to White

17, 348.

177, 209.

, 173.

, 28, 45, 40, 48,

>, 96, 145, 172,

17,

Tonui (Thomas Ariwakenha), an
Iroquois, canoe-man of Sir George
Simpson, 5 ; drives waggon, 13 ;
carries author across Vieux iMa-
raia, 28 ; attached to author's
expedition, 31, 35 ; characteris-
tics of, 47 ; ferries author across
Saskatchewan, 89 ; shoots a bull,
97 ; facetiousness of, 200 ;
appearance of, 203 ; catches trout,
250 ; in the " Golden Era,"
274 ; winter attire, 292 ; his
cooking referred to, 90, 235, 251,
315.

Toronto, 5, 23.

Toucliwood Hills Fort, 309, 312.

Trees, — earlier in leaf near Chicago
than in Canada, ; spoilt by
half-breeds — lob-sticks, 44, 251 ;
of large size scarce, 139 ; burnt
wood near St. Ann, 166 ; cut
down by beavers, 171, 267 ; fire
the curse of, in llocky Mountain
district, 250 ; brutal destruction
of throughout America, 251 ;
lovely autumnal tints, 254 ; tree
nearly falls on author, 321 ;
scarce in Red River district, 338 ;
crack and split from frost, 367.
. . . Elms, fine,'near White Horse
Plains, 348, . . . Firs, fine group
by Crow-wing River, 15 ; plen-
til'ul between Edmonton and
Rocky Moimtains, 166 ; sharp-
ness of broken dead branches,
171, 226 ; of good growth, 187 ;
in Medicine Tent Valley, 195 ;
author's name marked on one,
200; growth-levelnear Bow River,
238 ; large specimen of the silver
tribe, 250. . . . L.vRCHES,afewseon,
172 ; growth-level near Bow River
— ]ieculiar habit, 238 ; a few in
lower valley of Bow River, 250 ;
small, near Swan Lake, 336. . . .
Maplks, line wood of near Lake

Forty-fiiur, 20. . . . Oaks, copses of,
west f: Chicago Plain, 6 ; used
for axle-nees, 54 ; in a glen near
Qu'appelle River, 69, 129. ...
Pines, of good growth near Crow-
wing, 14 ; ruins of burnt, 172 ;
burnt forest of in sunlight, 177 ;
beauty of in firelight, 190 ; in
Medicine Tent Valley, 195 ; dense
woods, 221 ; large specimens in
Bow River lower valley, 250 ;
quality of as fuel, 306 ; camp
among snow-clad, 337 . . . .
Poplars, 44 ; islands of, 53,
120, etc. ; stamp peculiar charac-
ter on landscape, 133 ; preva-
lence of, 44, 139, 172, 306, etc. ;
forest of immense, 175 ; quality
of as fuel, 306 .... Spruces,
mixed with poplar, 44, 139 ;
forest of immense, 175 ; of good
growth'^but spoilt by Indians,
187 ; in Medicine Tent Valley,
195 ; growth-level near Bow
River, 238 ; large specimens in
lower valley of Bow River, 250 ;
fine black, 321.
Turtle Creek, 138, 295 ; Mountain,
344.

Vermont, a well-bred bay, pony,

10, 13, 48, 63, 122, 129, 298.'
Vieux Marais, 28.

Wabasliaw, 370.

Waggon, 10, 13, 35, 70.

Wasp's nest disturbed, 174.

Water, scarcity of pure, 115.

Waterspout, 21.

Watson, Mr., Fort Garry, 30.

Wawpooss, a wliite pony, a bullalo-

runner, 37, 58, 71, 73, 80, 91,

119, 138, 157.
Wenona, 370.

448

INDEX.

H '1^ ■

•!■■

.,8'

Wesley, Rev. John, quoted, 233.

Whisky, u fat Indian dog, attaohea
himself to the party, 134 ; the
cauflo of his fatness, 153 ; ridicu-
lous in crossing a river, and absurd
•in general, 179 ; carries a .siftleur's
i' head, 192 ; follows author up a
steep mountain, 196 ; and out

- sheep-stalking — alarmed by a tele-
scope, 211 ; in peril, 212 ; nar-
rowly escapes p falling ram, 213 ;
fancy for climbing rocks, 228 ;
his tUi^st at being nuizzled,

%. 261 ; his selfish desertion of the

• party, 274.

White Horse Plains, 40, 348 ;
settlers' houses at, 349.

White Mud Lake, 137, 295 ; River,
268 ; River, 315 ; Creek, 283.

Winipeg, Lake, Norway House
at northern extremity, 31 ; a
means for communicating with
Pacific from Canada, 332 ; mean-
ing of name, 345 ; Red River
flows into it, 351, 368.

Winnepagos, Lake, meaning and
accentuation of name, t4'i ; its
shores pid bays, 341 ; its con-
nection with Lake Manitobah,
342 ; thickness and quality of its
ice, 341, 342 ; its size, 345 ;
saline tendencies, 345 ; party
travel on the ice of, 337 ; arrive
at Duck Bay Post on, 340 ; cross
neck of land .separating it from
Lake Manitobah, 341.

Winter landscapes, 295, 297.

Wolf Hills, 57.

Wolf River, 176.

Wolverine, The, 324, 325,

Wolves, — The larqe American
Wolf — described, 66,66 ; a white
male prowls round camp, 66 ; a
white male enters camp, and is
shot, 68 ; a white male unsuccess-
fully run, 71 ; a lame white female
shot, 85 ; a slecpitig one stoned,
102 ; a male shot at, 103 ; a
white male wounded, 137 ; a
white female shot, 142. The
Prairie-wolf — described, 122 ;
a male wounded, 5 5 ; ayoung male
shot, 67 ; scared by moonlight,
101; two shot, IS 2. Wolves
(UNCiiASSiPiED), their howling, 24,
70, 123, 135, 146 ; their preda-
tory habits, 122 ; their attacks on
tiie buffalo, 79, 118, 123; their
ci().;sing with the Indian dog, 153 ;
tl.eir use as food, 122; their attacks
on horses, 176, 184.

Woolsey, Rev. Thomas, Wesleyan
missionary in the Edmonton dis-
trict : meets author at Fort Ed-
monton, 147 ; gives him informa-
tion, especially as to the Cree
syllabic characters, (see Appen-
dix), 148, 151 ; conducts the
Sunday services, 1 68 ; leaves the
Fort, 164 ; author meets Assini-
boines visited by him, 258 ; on
a missionary tour, 268 ; reference
to his ministration among the
Assiniboines, 355, also see his
letter in A]>pendix.

York Factory, 5, 366.

if ''•

it .i

THE END,

ill

^"^ '%

/*■

The large American
[escribed, C5,66; a white
wis round ciiinp, 06 ; a
lie eiiteru camp, and is

a white male unsucceaa-
7 1 ; a lame white female

a sleeping one atoned,
male ahot at, 103 ; a
de wounded, 137 ; a
mle ahot, 142. The
?OLF — described, 122 ;
mded,56 ; ayoung male

scared by moonlight,
ahot, 15 2. Wolves
''lEu), their howling, 24,
35, 146 ; their preda-
, 122; their attacks on
>, 79, 118, 123; their
th the Indian dog, 153 ;
food, 122; their attacks
176, 184.

V. Thomas, Wesleyan
in the Edmonton dis-
;s author at Fort Ed-
7 ; gives him informa-
ially as to the Cree
aracters, (see Appen-

151 ; conducts the
nces, 158 ; leaves the

author meets Assini-
id by him, 258 ; on
'tour, 268 ; reference
listration among the
355, also see his
pcndix.

5, 366, ^fi

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