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MINCBNT STARRBTT
for that he, toe, was once
young and given to dreams of
high emprise, unwitting the
slogging ambuscades of destiny
that mock the head held high...

This Relic
of past playtimes is proffered
^y him that plays no more, at
>)asticcio or monograph or
what you will — a curiosity
authored by

Ics^""^---*-^

L'ARBRE CROCHE
MISSION

A MemorabU Relation
Briefl)^ Setting Fortfi Hh*

Historical Facts

And Eschewing All Fable &

Legend, As Erected B^

Untutored Minds ,

Touching Upon Ofhe Justlj^

Famed Mission Of

^TKe Crooked Tr

B9 H. BEDFORD -JONES. Esquire

Printed

Bo OKe Same At <TKe

Sign

of 'TKe Crossed Quills

In Sta. Barbara

I9I7

For6? copies, Kand-printed
b>> tKe Au4»or, & dis-
tributed pri\atel>T .

Inscrlbafil to Kim wKom comprakcnsivc

IcnowUdge of tK« old northwest m««ti

wi^ more recognition abroad than at

horn* ; mf friend

HENRY McCONNELL

PREFACE

The material contained Herein Kas been
compilea from original sources h^ one Henr?
McConnell, who can trul^? sajJ of nortKem
Michigan annals, "Magna pars fui."

nitis volume is not controversial. Its in-
tent is to give concisely the actual stor? of
a famous mission. A great deal of trash has
been written about I'Arbre Croche b^ lazjl
or honestl)^ ignorant dabblers; and this book
is not copyrighted in hope that others ma>)
find profitable instruction therein.

H. Bedford-Jones

Santa Barbara, Calif.

God made a little crooked tree

And set it on tKe shore ,
A thing of v»ondrous sancti^i^
To paynim folk . But presently)
Came men who hailed the myster?
And preached a fai^h of chari^j)
All up and down the shore .

t'l

The]? built a church upon the shore

Benea4\ the crooked tree,
And taught the pa^rnim to abhor
TTie gods by which his fathers swore;
It proved a simple labor , for
^^e Cross the)) gathered to adore
Was but a Crooked Tree!

gl'ARBRE fQlROCHE

1 S S I O Nj

H. Bedford-Jones & H. McConnell,

M«mb«r« Michigan & Wisconsin
Hift . Sod«ti«$ . Etc .

L Arbre CrocKe, tKe crooked tree, was a
prominent landmark of earlj) voyageurs on Lake
Michigan; the hooked top of the great pine was
"Visible for miles. It occupied a point near what
is no^ Middle Village, between Little Traverse
and Waugoshance, its Indian name being War-
gun-uk-ke-zee , or the bent tree. It was sacred.

The tree was in place until the earl^ years

1' lA m j9 m 4t CA<9ci^«tf

of the last centur? , wKen certain bickering red
:;.en cut it down. Wi^ the fall of this the
s>;mbol of their greatness and life-pulse, thej)
too fell ; and the mould of I'arbre creche lined
their graves .

After all, often we jind that God has a
purpose in altering the natural shapes of men
and things. Sometimes He speaks thru such a
man or thing — perhapc a burning bush . ^The
High Cross was but a crooked tree .

In 1740 the Ottawas about Fort Michilli-
mackinac were dissatisfied wifli their unproduct-
ive lands , and thej? sent forth parties to seek
ne-sJ fields . Qhis alarmed the French , fiercel)'
struggling to retain their fur trade.

De Blainville, second in command at the
post, spent that winter widi tne Ottawas and
fetched them back in the spring . Commandant
de Celeron took the chiefs to Quebec to hold
a council wim the Marquis de Beauharnois .

'Tne Governor submits new locations , offers
to light a fire at the spot chosen , and promises

Kis ^endsKip and a great flag of France. In
tK* following summer we find tKe chiefs back
in Montreal witfi word that thejl had settled at
1 Arbre Croche . "Ma5> your hearts ," says Beau-
harnois, "be as white as the great flag I have
caused to be hoisted in your village!" Hlius
it is settled.

Meantime the old Jesuit mission of Saint
Ignace de Michillimackinac , holding the bones
of Marquette, had been abandoned and burned.
Above the signature of de Ligner5> I ^, q^

find what others have missed — that Mooted L>.ta
he moved the post in 1720 to what N«»»> S«tl«d
is now Old Mackinaw. Hlie nussion
followed : thence witfi the Ottawas and Jesuits
to I'Arbre Croche in 1741 .

Henry locates I'Arbre Croche twenfp miles
west of the fort. Puthoff's census of i8ig gives
it as ten towns wi^ a population of 1500. In
the first gazeteer of Michigan it is placed ten
miles sou^west of MackinaW. Farmer's map of
1846 places it at Harbor Springs . Andrews , in

1853 ■ puts it twenfi?-five miles sou^west of Mack-
'm»yi . WKere w a « T Arlare Croche ? Puzzling
as tKese varied locations have been to Kistor-
ians, it will be sKown tbat all -were correct.

Beauhamois kept fai(h wiiK tbe red settlers,
sending the French from Mackinaw to aid them.
B]? degrees the entire shore-line down to Little
Traverse Ba]? was cleared for tillage and dotted
wt4i villages. ^TKe whole was blanketed under
the generic term of TArbre Croche.

In 1742 came Joseph Ainse, "a master car-
penter." He built a church near the principal
village and \r^ the crooked tree, where Cross
Village noW is. Here the abstract became the
concrete name, and here was located "Le Reg-
istre de Wouveau Mackinac."'

nhe mission, its farms and lands, was the
nucleus and center of all . Meither seats nor
floor had the log church; since it did not last
so ver? long, perhaps it was not well builded .
niie French Jesuits were so eager to save souls
that the^J neglected to glorif>> God, in the sense

R*z«k. Vol. II p. „,

jM 3 > > 3 • ^

of building greatly as did their brethren in the
Cahfomias. Further, Master Ainse was newl3>
wedded, and the first person to be buried in
the nn^ church was his child. ^Therefore let
us love him foi* his shortcomings !

Benea^ the kindly French rule our Otta>
was increased and multiplied; their lands were
rich and t\\e^ prospered. Pere du Jauna^' was
among them .

From a letter written Irp de la Richardie
at Detroit in 1741 , addressed to du Jauna^ at the
river louchetanon ," it has been supposed that
du Jauna<> was then in Indiana, this l,
address being mistaken for a variant of fi^j^ Found
Ouiatanon. 'Tlie statement of 'TKwaite In Error
and others that du Jauna>> was app-
ointed to I'Arbre Cioche in 1744, is entirely
wrong .

louchetanon is the Ottawa term for Grand
River , is rightlp spelled , and means "far-flung
water. ^Thus Pere du Jauna^^ was wintering wi^h
his Ottawas at Grand River , as was customar^i^ .

t- m n Jf n <ti <c«i««^<(E

Du Jauna^? came to MicKillimackinac in 1735
and remained thiit? years. In '66 he was in
cKarge of Pointe aux Trembles, Quebec, dying
there in '81. Some writers call him "Pierre
Luc"; his signature is always "P. du Jaunaip".

His letters from I'Arbre Croche are deeply
interesting, balanced between devotion to, and
sadness over, his work. He was the life and
soul of the crooked tree; yet ever he sa^ his
flock bedeviled b]? traders, voyageurs , soldiers.
No; might he settle down to quiet days and
softl]? chiming hours.

When the "old fort" fell in '63, it was
du Jauna]? who influenced the Ottawas to save
the hapless Englishmen; it was he who carried
word of their plight to leaguered Detroit and
returned wi4i Gladwin's orders, pleading peace
upon Pontiac en route. Afterward, he writes
Langlade of ho^ his converts had secured rum
and had made him suffer in bod>' and spirit.
Assisting du Jauna>) at various times were
Coquart, who came west wifh Verendrye and
14

J» a .* ;» 3 (• jl

died at tK« Saguena:? misfion in '65; Morinie,
wKo stayed tw«lv« years; and le Franc, wKo
stayed nine. Du Jauna>l mentions a "dear bro-
ther Nicolas Demers" of whom we kno^ naught.
Through all the flaming years the central
figure is that of du Jauna:?. He it was whom
the Indians revered, whose name thej^ cherished
and whose pa&s and walks thej^ pointed out to
their children. After his going the crooked tree
bare no good fruit.

LArbre Croche mission was abandoned be-
nea(h British rule. TKe registers, particularly
that of baptisms, tell the result: "child of a
savage woman", "father wintering on Grand ri-
ver", "natural son of -" and so fortf\.

Yet these Ottawas of I'Arbre Croche were
men among men. The]? were witft Denonville
and signed peace wi{h the Iroquois in
1701; the:9 followed Langlade to Fort ^^'" ^""*
Du Quesne and sle^ Braddock's men ; ^°'^ °"'
tUeS were at the Plains of Abraham "^

and the subsequent battles, afterward signing a
15

tr««6? wJlK bir Wm. JoHnton «t Detroit .

<TK*y were wt4< Burgoyne in Nr»? York ,
and wirti Hamilton , unjustly? termed "tKe Kair-
buyer '; therp were at the assauh • St. Louis ;
tKe:? aided Robert* in capturing KlKclunav? , and
McDouall in repelling tKe Americans ; tKej^ ass-
isted at tKe capture of Prairie du CKien . and
Kelped burn Buffalo. Also tKe^^ ate tKeir dead
enemies . ait Tanner recounts .

In 1799 Gabriel RicKard stopped at I'Arbre
CrocKe, finding just one baptised Ottawa out
of tKirteen Kundred . In vain Kad tKe^? petit-
ioned tKe EnglisK for a priest . even subscrib-
ing 2308 francs annuall^j? for Kis support . Being
denied , tKe^^ drifted back to paganism .

RicKard found I'Arbre CrocKe to be no^rf
five miles south of tKe old site . La Mission
was marked onl]? b]? a great oaken cro?" KigK
on tKe bluff . 'TKe crooked tree was forgotten
of mei\ .

God , Kowever , does not forget . Over tKe
desolate I'Arbre CrocKe , tenanted hy) pagans ,

lost in t' c rising importance of otKcr placM,
still hovered tKe sKadov? of a cross.

^7K« years waxed and waned. U was i8ai
wKen Pere Richard revisited I'Arbre Croche; he
found even the Indian agent a whiske^^-trader .

But, two years later, eight Ottawa chiefs
petitioned Congress for missionaries; and Chief
Magati-Pinsigo sent a further plea. Boih were
ignored. From careless perusal of this petition
sprang the astounding assertion that Marquette
founded I'Arbre Croche .

In 1825 Fr. F. V. Badin visited the missions,
and hearing of his approach, the Ottawas of
the crooked tree erected a lo£» chapel
at Seven-mile Point. It was c«.".secrat-
ed Jul)) 3q4i, and dedicated to Saint
Vi'-ent de Paul. Badin twice retum-
«d, and inspired two ladies of Mackinaw to
become teachers. Richard was no^ in Wash-
ington, and shamed the government into com-
pliance. Word spread abroad that the crooked
tree was about to bud for^h .

«7

Aft.r

TV»e Fallot''
Y«iir5

1' B ti If a e c«<9cir<e

Assaquinac, tKe Drummond's Island inter-
preter. Heard tKe word. Renouncing his English
pension and post, he hurried to I'Arbre Croche,
and remained as teacher. H}>mnals and pra^^er
books in the Ottawa tongue were brought from
Montreal. When, in 1827, Jean Dejean came
from the Huron as the first stationar:9 priest,
he found a hundred and fjf^ Christians.

No^ the old tree budded ane^ , A town ,
church, village, school and manse were built;
TK. Pint ""* ®* *^* °^*^ «"*«. l>ut where no^
T«np«nc " Harbor Springs. A temperance soc-
Sod^ i«6? was formed - the first in Amer-

ica, b:? the wa3?. Joseph Latourno
taught the French tongue and manners. Dejean
compiled and printed a ne^ prayer book for his
six hundred converts .

L'Arbre Croche was at this time in the
diocese of Cincinnati. In 1829 arrived Bishop
Fenwick , and took back wifh him Augustin Ham-
elin and William Blackbird, who studied under
Fenwick and even went on to Rome . Qhe>> did
18

J3S 3 > > 3 4» jB

not attain the priesthood, Hamelin returning to
Kis tribe and Blackbird dying in Rome. Olie
sill]? assertion is still heard that Bleckbird was
murdered because he opposed the sale cf Ir.oian
lands !

Dejean went his way, and in 1831 came
one whose star was to shine high in the after
years - Frederick Baraga the Austrian.

Baraga was both student and explorer, and
the greatest missionary? of his place and time.
From the start he made I'Arbre Croche a cen-
ter of zealous activi^ .

Earl3> in 1832 he carried the work 01. to
Beaver Island, then dedicated a church at In-
dian Lake, Manistique. Tliis last site is no^
a summer resort; the cemetery) was fenced and
preserved b]? Ossawinamakee , son of the former
chief. Returning to the islands, Baraga found
a chapel erected and a collection of "idolatrous
articles" for burning .

In June he founded the Cheboygan miss-
ion — not at the present town of that name,
19

i'i

a R 25 « <tt <c n o c ti v;

However . Tliis mission was at an Indian town
a dajl and a Kalf b]? water from I'Arbre CrocKe,
and was later served from Little Traverse; show-
ing indisputably) that tkis was tke Burt Lake vill-
age, none whatever existing at Cheboygan.

In August came Fenwick wiAi a code of
dvil laws — a final gift, for this was the year
of cholera, and a fe^»^ weeks later he was dead.

Baraga went to Detroit and there printed
his Ottawa prayer book and catechism; an im-
provement on Dejean's work, which had held
too manj) Algonquin words. Returning, he had
a snowbound and unhappy) winv r.

^Then came his last months here. In June
he went to the old site, 21 miles nor^ . A
log church was built and , because the St. Ig-
nace mission had been carried hither, dedicated
b>) the same name. On the bluffs the great
cross, renewed in 1832, produced Ville la Croix
as place-name ; the Cross Village of toda]? .

Baraga moved his Beaver Island converts to
the mainland , re-founded the mission on Grand

River, and made a final tour. Tlien Ke went
nor4i to Kis larger work and his bisKopric .

Came FatKer Saenderl , but left slight re-
cord, save that I'Arbre Croche came wi4tin the
nev) diocese of Detroit. He was relieved in the
fall of 1835 h^ Francis Pierz, a Pole.

Pierz has been termed the father of agri-
cultural colleges. He flung himself into the task
of making a farming communis? , built a sawmill,
taught the Indians ho^ to use the soil . For
seventeen years he worked , Fr. Mrak aiding him.
But the]? could not prevail egainst the
changing times; their schools and in-
oculations were not proof against the
inrushing settlers. Before the ringing
axes fled the last memory* of blackrobe and voy-
ageur. Mackina'sS, where the annual pensions
were paid , was a hellhole . White fishermen
reaped the lake harvest .

Place-names altered . He aux Galets became
Skilagalee; Waugoshance, Wobbleshanks ; and in
place of I'Arbre Croche was Little Traverse . So

'The B«ginning

^The EnJ

ail3A4S Cil4^CI^<C

passed for ever tlie old missio.i's name.

Docks for "shipping-wood" lined the lake
shores and presaged the lumbering era. James
Jesse Strang seized the Beavers and established
a Mormon kingdom — destined to a future of
blood and tears. Smallpox stalked through the
land , ravaging .

Because of these things, wi4\ a decrease in
the pensions, our Ottawas gradually) drifted off
into the northwest --- not b^^ wholesale, but in
a steady? trickle of emigration. Still, in after
years there was no lack of I'Arbre Croche men
to sla>> and be slain on sou^iern battlefields.

John Bernard Weikamp, a superior of the
Franciscan order, was involved in serious trouble
wi^ Bishop O' Regan of Chicago. He came
nortft. Baraga, no^ bishop in charge of the
missions, recognized the man's value and gave
him harborage .

Weikamp arrived in Cross Village NJov. 25,
1855 , followed three days later b^ Baraga , who
remained over Christmas and gave minor orders

to two of Weikamp's novitiates .

'TKus was the nev7 foundation establishea ;
not wi^ut tKe fold of mother church , as is
often af}irmed, but wi^h due sanction and au-
tKori^ bo^ then and later .

Weikamp was well able to discover and to
graft the shards of the ancient tree. B3) 1858
he had centralized the other missions upon his
Cross Village convent ; he had four brethren
and twelve sisters at work; and in June Baraga
consecriited the church and cemetery) .

A curious structure , this ! In the center ,
the square church , and on either side cf it ,
built around patios but forming one cortti luous
block , the convent of a hundred bedrooms . It
was not onl]p dormitorp , but held schoolrooms ,
shops , refectories , etc . Sou4i of the convent
was a small building wi^ a four-sided , pointed
roof. A trap in its floor gave upon a vault,
designed to hold the bod]p of the superior.

Even novi men defame the dead wi4i tales
of hidden weal4i and imrrusralifp — all untrue .

Weikamp kad sKrewdl>) secured enough acreage
to suppor'. Kis work, but was not laying up for
Kimself anS treasure upon earfK .

Olie brethren and sisters lived entirely sep-
arate lives, not being allowed so much as to
speak each wifh the other. aKe>> had given
up the world; and therefore the world, after
its fashion, was not slov? to vilify them.

During these years Protestant missions were
numerous but accomplished little of moment.

Slowly) the long years passed and changes
came upon the nor^hland . <The mission station
of Agaming became a thriving town and was
named Petoske^) . after one of the local Ottawa
sub-chiefs, ^e lumbering industr? waxed huge
and the railroad came, and men grev? rich in
despoiling the redskins wi^ liquor. Weikamp
found that wifli the years Cross Village dre^
farther from the world; it was off the advan-
cing course of traffic and trade, and wi^h the
altering roads became difficult of access.

So it came to pass that in his latter years

Pere Weikamp spent mucK time in Kis crypt,
smoking and meditating. His v»ork Kad succ-
eeded; but the red men were vanishing, and
the da9 of missions Kad given wa^? to that of
parishes .

On March 19. 1889. Weikamp died from
injuries received in a mnav,aj> accident. Ohe
foundation did not long survive him. ,^

It was controlled hS a stock compan^l ^

and supported b^ the farm; but was pj^

finallSI abandoned in '96. the sisters
retiring to Joliet. Illinois. Ten years later, what
remained of the buildings was struck hS hght-
r\ing and destroyed.

OKus perished the last stock of the famed
crooked tree, probably nevermore to be revived.
L'Arbre Croche was but a backwash from the
great flood of histor>) ; its stor? is one of pett?
and local endeavors, of continued successes, of
repeated failures whereof the csuses were the
fauh of no man. Us picturesque features have
made appeal to "artistic temperaments" and the

<i9«« c««cir«

same credulous souls wKo go into raptures over
Alexander Henri>'s n\374\ical friend Wawatam ,
and wKo erect marbles to petft> local redskins,
neglecting the red patriots who died in sou^-
ern prison-camps or battles.

TKe KitKerto unwritten storp of the crook-
ed tree is replete wi<K sweet touches, and is
filled wifli the high spirit of men who worked
and suffered in the service of God.

Qfcis booklet cannot pretend to set for4i
all such things --- ihe letters of beloved Pere
du JaunB]?, the reception of Bishop Fenwick,
the pathetic or heroic incidents innumerable. It
can give but the sketchilj? outlined relation of
a mission whereof the ver^ name is no^ no
nxore than a memory? .

A failure? Far from it. <The registers of
I'Arbre Croche tell of splendid success; not as
the world names it — but what matters the
world's esteem ?

Within this curt outline, then, lies a sig-
nificance which each of us must seek for him-
26

■'"-'■^ ^W! %" I'tmvJWmWFiVWm.mmB 1. m ^.^m*

.0) 3 > > 3 <8» .n

wlf; an inspiration wKicK can discover itself onl^?
to tkose wkose Hearts will alla«9 entrance.

And at I'Arbre CtocKe a Half-witted lajl
brotHer keeps tHe burial crypt of Weikamp and
tHe crooked tree .

L'ENVOI

So ends tKe talc of kov9 men lived and died
And Ko^ all ruined is the crooked tree;

Yet from tKe ancient cliffs a Tree Holds wide
Its arms unto tKe sunset's memor:p .

And we wKo watcK across tKe "Vagrant years
WKere dea^K makes numicrp of Kope — sKall

Not find somewKere wi4\in tKe blood and tears
Of men wKo served tKeir God, a myster:??

Men pass ; tKeir tombs decamp , tKeir kingdoms
wane ,

'TKeir olden fanes fall crumbling to tKe sea;
Yet tKougK lost tKings come never back again

A Tree Kolds faiA\ in immortali^i) !

• re

End

OK* Stor^ Of

LARBRE CROCHE MISSION

Printed B^ nhm Autfior

nhm Sign Of <7K« Cro»Md QuilU

Santa Barbara
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