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-^^l^ C^
RSMINISENCES OF PeRSONAI, EXPERIENCE
And Research in The Eari.y Days
Of The Pacific Coast
From Alaska to Panama.
BY
Major William Down
fFOONDEB OF DOWNIEVILLE, CAL.]
le
^
-Press of-
The California Publishing Co.
San Francisco, Cai,.
1893
375
#i a ;> Jl o t>
Pi
COPYKIGHTED BY
THE CALIFORNIA PUBLISHING COMPANY
ALL, RTGHTS BESEUVED.
I I
TIopo told Its flattering talc: "romo sopk ye here—
"For couriiK'o, Kortiiiu' nives you sliiiiiiiK p)l«l!
"Rt'inove ttu' trcnsdro's niiintel an«l Ix'hold
"The glittering specks that from I eneath it peer,
"|,oi'"e home and frieniis, leaveall that you hold dear-
"As . n won tlu' fjo'dt'ii fleece of old
"Shall you have your rewanl— a hundred fold—
"Come, tarry not— your greatest chance is near!"
And so like Jason's Arponants they went—
Kach sinew strained, eacli liardy muscle bent,
\Vith(!ourage, youth and vigor, "who could fail?
Some ne'er returned, their story none could tell—
A fcv to-day in lofty mansions dwell,
But more, by fur, deny hope's Qattering tale
Chris M. Waage.
O the surviving members of the
ad\/ance guafd of gold hunters,
the California pioneers and their
descendants, cuho are noui living
throughout the United States, this
book is most respectfully dedicated
by the AUTHOR
INTRODUCTION
In presenting this book to the public the publishers
feel assured that it is almost superfluous, to introduce
the author or dwell upon the merit which these
pages possess, as originating from the pen of Major
William Downie. As one of the very earliest pioneers
and gold seekers in California, Major Downie has be-
come a man of universal interest, while to some of his
discov3ries in the early days is due the fever heat of ex-
citement, which at that period, made the world's great
heart palpitate with double-quick pulsation, and sent
thousands of daring adventurers across the arid deserts
and the stormy main.
Too much cannot be said of the remarkable nature, of
which Major Downie is possessed, having been endowed
with a physique and general constitution, which at times
have carried him through the most desperate circum-
stances, the subject of these pages is mentally and
morally equipped with a temperament which enabled
him to successfully withstand the temptations that caused
the fall of so many others in the early days; while his
native generosity and amiability secured for him many
friends, who dearly prized his personality.
As a practical miner, Major Do\. ae is without a peer,
and even to this day his authority is acknowledged, and
his advice is taken by any working miner, and rarely
without benefit to the recipient. These pages tell of the
days when this experience was gained; the days on the
<
Yuba, wlien, to honor him, his companions called the
settlement at the forks, Downieville, the name by wh.ch
it is known as yet; the days of hardships in the snow-clad
Sierras; the adventures in British Columbia and Alaska;
and the weird search for ixold in the Indian fjraves of
Panama.
It was only after repeated solicitations from his friends
that Major Downie allowed his notes to be given out for
publication. The material thus provided was entrusted
by the publishers to Mr. Chris M. Waage for compi-
lation and revision. Mr. Waage is a journalist and
literateur of some note, and he has spared no effort in
order to present Major Downie's papers in the most
acceptable form, retaining throughout, the simple modest
way of relating the story, which characterizes the original
manuscript.
In conclusion, the publishers wish to draw attention to
the illustrations, which have been chosen with a view to
depict the situations as far as possible. Some of them
have been reproduced from engravings dating back to
the very earliest days, when pictorial art of this class was
first introduced into California.
The Publishers.
HURTINB F0R BBLD,
CHAPTER I.
Introductory Remarks — At Home in Scotland — First Voyage — A
Sailor on the Lakes — Lumber Trade in Buffalo — The Gold
Fever — Round the Horn — San Francisco — Expensive Din-
ners — The Glorious Fourth — Generous Gamblers — Fun with
the Immigrants.
I have been asked by many friends to give to the
world, through a publication, some of my reminiscences of
the early days of gold hunting and adventures on the
Pacific Coast, and it is in complying with this oft re-
peated request that I have penned the following.
Some of the incidents described, may be fairly said at
one time to have helped to revolutionize the known world,
and for that reason must forever retain a certain interest.
The narrative throughout is based upon personal ex-
periences, observations and conclusions, and iS compiled
from notes, taken at the time; recollections, corroborated
by friends who were with me at the periods referred to;
letters, which have passed between myself and friends, and
from official reports bearing upon the circumstances
related. The correctness of my account is therefore
warranted, and, while it is not infrequent to read de-
scriptions of life in the early days, which are highly
flavored with unnecessary romance, I claim for my work
that in its details it corresponds with actual facts which
have now become part and parcel of the history of the
western coast of this great continent
HUNTING FOR GOLD.
ii^
I was born in tlio city of Glasgow, Scotland, in the
year 1819. It was the memorable year when the terrible
masacre took place at the Manchester reform meetin*^.
James Monroe was then the fifth president of the United
States, and Georjje III was kini; of Great Britain. It was
in the days when such names as Shelley, Byron, Scott,
Coleridge and Wordsworth shone in the literary firma-
ment; the days of early steamboat traveling, and the
days that had not as yet seen the locomotive engines
dashing, snorting and fuming throug quiet fields. In
that same year the steamer Savannau, 350 terns, came
from New York to Liverpool in 26 days, and the passage
was reijarded as a marvel. There were then in the
whole of Scotland not twelve steamers, and only the
wheels of one stirred the surface of the river Clyde. It
seems long ago, and the world to-day seems scarcely the
same as in those da vs.
t/
I was raised in Ayrshire. From quite a boy my mind
was bent upon adventure. When I saw the waves roll-
ing in through the North Channel, I knew from my
school books that they came from the great Atlantic,
and I longed to be on thcnn and sail away to different
parts of the great world. So, when I was old enough,
I shipped on board a vessel that carried coal between
different points on the coast. It was not exactly what I
wanted, but it fitted me for a larsrer undertakinof, when
a chance should afford itself, and when it came I was
ready for it. My first deep-sea voyage was to Australia
on a Glasgow vessel. I was in Sidney in the days,
when Botany Bay was made the inhospitable home for
thousands of condemned prisoners, whose greatest offense
in many instances consisted in shooting a jack rabbit in
the Squire's covers. I recollect seeing the landing of a
cargo of unfortunates who had been consigned to those,
then desolate, regions. From Australia we sailed to the
1
HUNTING FOR GOLD.
9
East Indies and visited the Isle of France and from there
we went to London.
My next voyage was to America. I shipped at Done-
gal for Quebec in the old Spring Hill and arrived there,
determined to try my fortune in foreign lands, before
returning home. I had a varied experience. I first sailed
lakes Ontario and Erie. From there I drifted into the
lumber business on Grand River, established a store in
Dunvillo at the mouth of this stream, and ultimately,
in partnership with a man named J. C. Hay ward, became
interested in lumber yards on the Buffalo Shipping Canal.
I was stopping in Butlalo at the Love Joy Hotel,
when I first heard of the discoverv of cfold in California.
The result the rumors produced was magical. Men of
all ages and in all conditions of life got the gold fever,
and I among the rest. Some of the tales told were fab-
ulous, and the reports oftreasures found in some instances
were enough to entice any man of grit and daring to
challenge fortune As will be seen further on, many
even, who had neither of these qualities, ventured upon
the search for gold, prompted merely by the lust for gain,
and the hope, perchance, of escaping the yolk of poverty,
or the discomfort of narrow circumstances. At the
hotel the advisability of going to California to try our
luck had become a leading topic among a number of the
boarders, and at last I made up my mind to go. Being
a sailor I concluded that to travel by sea would be both
more comfortable and far safer than to trust ones self to
the chances of traversing vast deserts and encountering
hostile Indians. So I shipped from Boston for New
Orleans on board the brig Monterey.
I well remember the day of my departure for the far
West. It was the day before General Zacharias Taylor
was elected to the presidency, which was to be his only
10
HUNTING FOR GOLD
for one brief year. Political enthusiasm ran high, and
much achniration was expressed for the gallant soldier,
who had distinjxuished himself so much during^ the
Mexican war; but I cared little about politics and was
anxious to get away.
Arrived at New Orleans the next thing was to secure
passage to San Francisco Bay. The small vessels, going
by the Panama route, were crowded to their utmost
extent, and I concluded to try and work my passage on
some ship, going around the Horn. Fortune favored
me, and I was not long in finding the desired opportunity.
The clipper ''Architect," in command of Captain Gray of
Baltimore, was lying ready to sail, and a shipping master
informed me that just one man was wanted to sign articles
at once. I offered my services and the shipping master
kindly responded: "Take off that black coat," he said,
"and come to the office in the morning."
I did as he told me, and the next morninsf I siirned
articles, received two months wages in advance, and a few
hours after had made myself perfectly at home on board.
This was indeed a piece of good luck, for there were any
number of men in those days, who would gladly have
worked their passage out for nothing, and I believe I
was the only foremast hand who received any wages.
Everybody on board with the exception of the officers
was bound for the mines. The thirst for gold and ad-
venture had seized everybody, and, when after a long
and tedious voyage we ultimately dropped anchor in the
Bay of San Francisco, all hands left the ship at once, for
such was the custom in '49.
San Francisco at that period looked vastly different to
what it does nowadays. A number of the crew stayed
together, and we at once mpde our way for some place,
where we could camp for the night. I still remember
HUNTING FOR GOLD
11
the names of Perkins, Pierce and Gibson as belonging to
our company, and there were more, whose names I have
forgotten. It was on the 27th day of June, 1849, that
we hmded. Tho weather was mild, and there was no
reason to waste money on hotel acconimodations, which
then were both scarce and ex})ensive, so we determined
to camp for the night in Hide Park. The name sounds
aristocratic enough, but the place itself was anything
but invitinir. The location of it was about where now
the Palace Hotel rears its lofty walls, and it derived its
name from the fact that here the old Spanish settlers
piled up their hides and horns, previous to shipping them,
and at the time of our arrival the ground was covered
with these goods arranged in bales and proper heaps.
Here we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances
would permit, and spent the first night in the land of
gold, of hope and of opportunity.
After we had spent a few days in our new quarters
and got the lay of the land, we all succeeded in getting
work. Some of us found employment at handling lum-
ber, others at rolling casks and barrels up the beach as
fast as the lighter could bring them from the vessel,
while I with three or four others was hired to ballast a
brig, which was lying off the Mission. In order to get
aboard the brig we had to take a boat, which lay on the
beach at the foot of what is now Sansome Street, and I
well recollect the first morning, as we were walking down,
to this spot, encountering several men, who came run-
ning toward us and pretended to warn us against going
on board the brig, saying "They would do for us there.'*
These fellows, who belonged to the class, known as
"Sidney Ducks," reckoned without a host. We told them
that nothing could scare us, we had just landed after a
long voyage and nothing would please us better than a
12
HUNTING FOR GOLD
good live fight. When they hef»"d this, they concluded
to leave us alone, and we were no more troubled with
their importunities.
Labor was scarce then, as nearly everybody was mak-
ing for the mines, and work was therefore plentiful. We
received from $8.00 to $16.00 a day, but could not aflbrd
to enorage board and lodijiniif, for which the most exhor-
bitant prices were charged, and so made the best of it in
our own camps. Some of our passengers went to the
Parker 'House to board but had to mve it uo, as the
prices were too high. The Parker House was then tbe
principal hotel in San Francisco. It was situated on
Kearny Street, and the expense of staying at a hostelry
of that class in '49 may be imagined, when it is stated
that a good dinner cost from $8.00 to $12.00. No won-
der our passengers found their purses somewhat too small
for a prolonged stay at this liotel.
I remember one fellow traveler in particular, who by
the time he landed had become thoroughly disgusted
with salt beef and hard tack, and made up his mind to
go somewhere at once, where he could get a good dinner.
He was told that the Parker House was the place for him,
and so thither he went, having first put into his pocket
a Spanish Doubloon, which was worth about $10.00.
The dinner was a pleasant change in the diet of our friend,
and, after he had enjoyed it, he went to the counter and
threw down the gold piece to pay for the meal. The
clerk looked carefully at the coin, put it in the till and
ojave his customer four dollars in chano^e. "What is that?"
asked the stranger. "Your change," replied the clerk,
"your change for dinner," and then engaged in conversa-
tion with other customers.
As soon as the traveler got an opportunity he again
approached the clerk and asked him confidentially to
I
HUNTING FOR GOLD
15
state what they charged for dinner at this establishment,
"Twelve dollars," said the clerk suavely, ''twelve dol-
lars — that's all sir."
"See here," said the traveler, holding out the four
dollars he had received as change, "if that is so, you
may as well take these other four dollars along with it,
as I can't get anything in this town for such a small
amount."
There are many scenes and incidents, that occured
during my first visit to San Francisco, which, although
they then puzzled me, now cause me to smile as I re-
member them. The first celebration of the Fourth of
July, which I witnessed in the weird and wondrous West,
left an indelible impression upon me. The festivities
were minus the more modern Chinese fireworks, but let
those who object to this mode of celebration, appreciate the
fact that the general tumult and noise was not produced
by anything so harmless. In '49 the glorious Fourth was
usihered in by drinking to the constitution in bumpers,
until the celebrants were half-seas over. Then began
the fun. Instead of firecrackers, pistols were used, in-
stead of sending up rockets, men would show their
adroitness with the gun by shooting through windowpanes,
hitting lighted lamps or candles and offering to shoot off
buttons from their friends' garments. One episode caused
quite a little excitement. An old Mexican, who had got
somewhat mixed in the political situation, hoisted his
native flag, but this so anno^^ed the Americans that they
forthwith pulled it down, and the old fellow in his dis-
gust rolled himself up in his colors and went to sleep.
Gambling was then carried on on a large scale all over
the city, and Faro and Monte were the most frequent
games. The banker would have a little tin cup by his
side, in which he would deposit all silver coins under
14
HUNTING FOR GOLD
half a dollar. This small chansre was termed "chicken
feed," and when anybody came in looking hungry or
thirsty, and seemingly in want of means to satisfy his
cravings, the banker would dive into the tin cup and take
from it a dollar or more, which he would hand to the
strani^er that he miijht Qot relief. There was a certain
spirit of magnanimity and generosity, which inspired all
who had plenty of money at that time, and it extended
even into those grades of the community, who made a
living by preying upon the folly of others. One more
incident I must relate, because at the time being it caused
much merriment at the expense of a number of "green-
horns," and characterizes life at that period. The
steamer from Panama arrived with a lar«;e number of
passengers, nearly all of whom were bcund for the mines.
Towards evening of the day when they had come ashore,
a number of the boys played a, joke on the new arrivals,
which none of them could possibly forget, harmless as it
was. They marched into town, forming quite a large
company. Every man was armed to the teeth, and they
were accompanied by a lot of Indians, who carried sacks
filled with sand and pebbles from the seashore. The
sacks were marked mucha oro, and the whole caravan
presented the appearance of being a band of successful
miners, returning from the gold fields. The immigrants
would stop in amazement, wherever they came upon the
company, and ask all sorts of questions relative to this
apparently magnificent treasure, some of them expressing
their doubts that there would be any more gold left to
look for, others talking hopefully of the brilliant prospect
before them. Of course the initiated enjoyed the joke
hugely.
Such w^as life in San Francisco in the early days, and
such the men, who laid the foundation for a great and
magnificent city.
CHAPTER II.
On Board the Milwaukee— No Clearance Papers— Going up the
River— Sacramento — Teamsters Talk— Off for the Yuba—
First Experience— War upon Foreigners — A Silent Friend —
Store Keeping — Lumpy Gold — Restless — Foster's Bar — Sick
Men with Great Appetites — In Search of a Partner.
I was now (jetting^ tired of life in San Francisco, little
as I had seen of it, for indeed the greater part of my
time had been taken up with work, and I was saving my
money till such time, as I should want it for the purpose
of going to the mines. It was not then always an easy
matter to hold on to one's cash. Alluring temptations
were thrown in the way of the newcomer from all quar-
ters, and the chances of the gambling table induced many
a foolish fellow to part with the coin, which might have
opened far brighter prospects to him, had he stuck to it,
and disbursed it more judiciously. But outside the
gambling resorts all manner of devices were invented
by cunning schemers, whose designs were to profit by the
youth or inexperience of the immigrants, for the purpose
of enriching themselves.
The Schooner Milwaukee was getting ready to go to
Sacra Diento, and I took passage on her. She was a small
craft of about fifteen tons, carrying a general cargo of
merchandise and a number of passengers as well. It
was on the 5th of July 1849 that we left San Francisco
with the excitement of the great national holiday fresh
in our minds, and the effects of patriotic drinks still heat-
IG
HUNTING KOR GOLD
■ I
lit:
ing the brow of some of our fellow passengers. I for one
was particularly pleased to get away from the reckless
city, where it seemed to nie that men's passions were
worked up to fever hoat, and where everything was done
to excite them. I had not then even a forecast of the
scenes that should open to me. I little dreamed that the
quiet of the mountains and the silence of the valleys
were even at that hour echoinof with the thunder of
human emotions; that nature in its holiest solitude was
being made the theater, in which was enacted the most
powerful scenes of human aspirations, degradation and
often vice in its most hideous form. The sentiment of
hope was predominant with all of us, and I fully believe
that every man on board depicted to himself treasures of
his own, greater than any on which Aladin's lamp threw
its magic light, and fondly believed that the labor of
months would secjure to him years of ease and plenty and
a life of unbroken satisfaction. Alas for hope! The few
verses at the beginning of my narrative express pretty
nearly what became of the gold seekeis. The tracks of
some few led to gilded halls, but far aore lead to dom-
icils, where disappointment told her story in the modest
larder, while there are many whose tracks were never
found; whose voices were stilled in the midst of the brawls
and on whose unknown graves no tears were ever shed.
The traveler who to-day goes to Sacramento, comfort-
ably seated in a railroad car, or even by the little river
steamer, can hardly imagine what our journey meant.
The accommodations on the schooner were extremely-
scanty, and in regard to room, the hold and the deck
cabin were pretty much on a par, while the deck itself was
so full of all sorts of cargo that it was almost an impos-
sibility to get the necessary exercise. If one wished to
lie down, he had to remove some of the cargo from the
HUNTING FOR GOLD
17
ew
bty
1
of
1
)m-
"»
lest
■ ' 'i^S
ver
lwU
d.
-^
Dri-
'dH
ver
v^^l
mt.
ely
eck
Aras
)()S-
to
the
hold, put it on deck wherever he could find space, and
rest himself on the barrels below, where he might remain
aa long as he pleased and could bear the suftbcating
atmosphere of the limited space. There was no cheering
bell that called to meals; no happy conversation over a
v/ell laid table for everybody was told to bring his own
grub or go without it, and for this kind of a passage we
were charged one ounce of gold or the equivalent in
silver.
After a good deal of pulling and hauling we got under
way and things went all right until we reached Benicia.
Here our craft was boarded by Uncle Sam's officers, and,
as our captain could show no clearance papers from the
port of San Francisco, he was told to return and secure
them before we could proceed any further. Conse-
quently the Milwaukee had to come to, and we lay there
for three long days, while the captain took a trip back to
San Francisco and returned with the necessary docu-
ments which enabled us to continue our voyage. It was
a tedious undertaking to go up the river. There was
very little sailing done, and in order to make any head-
way at all we had to pull and warp the old hulk most of
the way, and everybody took a hand to help along,
There was a good deal of impatience manifested at times,
but on the whole the crowd put up with the inconven-
iences fairly well, most of them consoling themselves
with flatterinfy thoug^hts of the Gold t)io:i»intrs and their
expected success there. ,
After a voyage of eleven days we reached Sacramento.
The people we met here were mostly of a different stamp
from what we had seen in San Francisco. There was
considerably more of comparatively legitimate business
done here, as the men came down to this city from the
mines to deposit their find and purchase rations. The
T
HUNTING FOR GOLD
19
teamsters did a trenicndotis busineps and took load* oi
provisions and all sorts of necessaries of life on the gold
fields, in all directions, wherever the gold-seekers were,
or the storekeepers catered to the adventurers. It was
therefore a matter of course that we first consuUed the
teamsters, as to where we might go with the best chance
of success. They in return seemed to agree that the
American River was the best place for us. We were
told that it was a good deal nearer than the Yuba, and
that gold was panning out there as well as on any of
the fields.
We were as yet undetermined when I happened to
meet Mr. J. Rose, who was going to the mines on the
Yuba, with goods. His accounts of the location decided
me, and we agreed to work the launch up the Yuba as
far as Nye's ranch, which is now known as Marysville.
We then procured a case of brandy, preserved meats,
and other necessary articles, stowed them away in the
stern sheets, and a fair wind springing up, we set sail.
The next morning we were at Vernon's, and after a two
days voyage arrived at Nye's Ranch, when those of us
who were bound for the mines, left the frail craft, and
set out on our inliifrimaiie.
There were three of us, and we were buoyant with happy
anticipations as we made our way to Rose's Bar, where
we learned that there were diggings further up the
river, and determined to push up to Bullard's Bar.
Here we bought a rocker for twelve and one-half ounces,
and now we stood at the gate that should lead us into
the promised land. It seems strange now to think back
upon our first experience in trying to find gold, and the
primitive manner in which we w^ent to work. The three
of us divided the labor, so that one worked the rocker,
while the other stirred, and the third used the pick and
HUNTING FOR OOT.D
21
sliovel and carried the dirt in a hag, about a panful at a
time. I honestly believe that I could now run one day's
vvoik through in one hour, pick, shovel, rocker and all.
We used a scoop about the size of a cigar box for wet-
ting the dirt. It had a long hatidle to it, and when the
water was thrown on the dirt it would be stirred up, a
process somewhat similar to making nuish.
The weather that summer was extremely hot, and
the temperature in the middle of the day became almost
unbearable, more especially to those who had not yet
become acclimated. It was a common thinof amons:
new arrivals to take a siesta of several liours in the
middle of the day, owing to an idea, generally imported
from home, that it v/as not healthy to work during
mid-day hours in California.
At Bullard's Bar some of the singular scenes of min-
ers' camp life in those days began to unfold themselves
to me, and here, for the first time, I saw a party organ-
ized for the pur[)ose of driving away ''foreigners".
What was implied by the term "foreigners" was not
exactly clear to me at that time, and it would be hard
for me to explain it even now. The little company so
organized, consisted of from twenty to thirty men.
They were armed with pistols, knives, rifles and old
shotguns, and I remember distinctly that they were
headed by a man who carried the stars and stripes in an
edition about the size of an ordinary pocket handker-
chief
Not far from where we were working, these brave
warriors made a halt and rested for a while, and I took
the opportunity to ask one of the men, where they were
going, and for what purpose. In reply I was told in
tip-top Tiperrary brogue, that the expedition had set out
for the purpose of exploring the river thirty miles up
22
HUNTING FOR GOLD
■ii'
and dowa with a view to driviiuj: away all "foreij^jncrs."
The crowd was a motley one, and as to nationality,
somewhat mixed. Irishmen were marching to drive off
the Kanakas, who had assisted brave Captain Sutter, of
immortal fame, when he was in difficulty with the
Californians. They were joined hy Dutchmen and
Germans, who could not speak a word of En<jjlish, hut
were jabbering together in their own harsh jargon, while
CAPTAIN JOHN A. SUTTER.
none of them had ever been in the United States.
Then there were a few New Yorkers, who really went
out for the purpose of looking after a good claim, already
opened, but all had joined hands in the alleged common
interest of protecting the native soil (for that was really
the only native feature about it), against the invasion of
"foreigner?."
I never learned whether this expedition met with any
success or not, and whether they derived any benefit
HUNTING rOR GOLD
28
from their undortakin<j^. I worked along with my part-
ners through tlie nw^nths of August and Septeniher,
when we began to discuss the advisabiUty of getting out
of the mountains. Matters were not altogether satis-
factory. I suffered from scurvy, and our food was not
of tl-.e best, as provisions were getting very scarce and
prices had risen ii proportion. I had tried to wing-dam
some of our claims, so as to find out whether there was
anything in the bed of the stream or not, but my efforts
had proved futile, as we could not succeed in drying the
claims. I cannot say that wo felt disheartened at our
difficulties, but the circumstances could not be called
encourajrint', and we recognized the fact.
There was one thing, about this time, which caused me
a good deal of trouble and considerably puzzled my
imagination It was the mystery with which the miners
surrounded all matters appertaining to prospecting.
One man in particular put my patience to a test in this
regard, and it was his reticence which ultimately caused
me to receive a lesson on some of the points of etiquette
observed among miners in those days.
The man I refer to was the same who had sold
me a rocker for the trifling pay of twelve ounces
and a half. I was in the habit of occasionally calling
at his camp, and always found him particularly friendly
and aftable. It seemed, therefore, strange to me that,
while he would converse with me freely on all other
matters, as soon as I asked him for any information in
regard to finding gold, he became as dumb as the pro-
verbial clam. He belonged to a company from
Waterloo in the State of New York, and he used to 2"o
out prospecting, staying away often from eight to ten days
at a stretch. It was more in particular, when he re-
turned from these trips, that I used to visit him. I
^ ;
24
HUNTING FOR GOLD
:U ■ I
ii
I
li .i
Si 1
in I
knew that there was soinethiriir called Wambo's Bar:
that the gold became finer about this locality and ulti-
mately ran out altosrether, and I also knew that a Mr.
Van (sonu'thing) used to go out prospecting with my
friend. But to all my interrogations as to where they
had been, what succesa they had met with, or anything
else that came natural to me to ask, I received evasive
ansv/ers, or no rcspcmse at all, until one day my friend
made me acquainted with the code that guided a min-
er's toniiue in those reijjions.
"Look here young fellow," he said, "if there is a thing
a miner don't care to talk about, it is where he has been,
and you might say that io is just as good as law among
prospectors, that every man keeps mum. Let me give
you a bit of advice: When you get to feel that way
yourself; that you have struck it rich in a new prospect,
don't you advertise your good luck and have a band play-
ing outside your tent to celebrate; but after sundown,
when everything is settled in camp, and your nearest
neighbor is snoring loud enough to compete with a
cathedral organ, you just pack your traps on your back
and skip out ot" camp ; and if you should meet anybody
on the road, who should ask you where you are going,
just tell them that you have had poor luck and are mak-
iny; back for town But the next mornina:, brio-ht and
early— or as soon as you can reach it — stick your pick
into your new claim and work it for all it is worth, before
anybody comes to interfere with your happiness."
This visit to my friend settled in my mind the fact
that I could find out nothing by inquiry, and that if I
wanted to learn anything, I must depend upon my own
experience. Just about this time I had my finger badly
jammed with a rock and had to go to Foster's Bar to
have it dressed, for which I paid one-half ounce, and as
<i*
M
HUNTING FOR GOLD
25
• ■•3/
I was partly hors-de-combat for the time being and
needed a rest, I divided the dust with my mates, and
went into store-keeping.
But I soon discovered that store-keeping did not isuit
me, and I had not been long in it, before I wished to
get out again and away to the mines. One morning two
men came in to purchase something. They had three
mules with them, heavily laden, and they stated that
they were on their way to Foster's Bar, but had lost the
trail. After they had bought the goods, they paid me
in lumpy gold, and left. Now this incident told a tale
" t the same time as it settled a question that I had often
asked myself, and in response assured me that they were
washing gold higher up the river'.
I made up my mind at once that I was going to have
some of that gold myself, and accordingly stored away
what goods I had and went to Foster's Bar, where I
bought a horse and a mule for the expedition. During
the first night, the horse was either stolen from me, or
it strayed away, but I was anxious to proceed on my
journey at once, provided I could find somebody who
would join me, and I made inquiries all through the
camps with a view to finding a partner. Foster's Bar,
at this period, presented a singular appearance. It was
crowded with men, and if one went up to the camps, his
olfactory organs w^ould perceive in a somewhat disagree-
able manner, the perfumes of pork and slap-jacks, arising
from a hundred frying-pans, and causing an odor, which
could only be compared with all the soap factories in
Ohio, frying out at full blast. There was much sick-
ness about this place at that time, and I do not wonder
at it, for the smell of the place was enough to make any
body feel out of sorts In almost every tent some-
body was sick, and every here and there a squalid-
26
HUNTING FOR GOLD
i
lookinoj individual miijht be seen crawlinjy on his hands
and knees to his tent door, througrh smoke and dust,
(not gohl dust however), but even these invalids would
devour half-cooked slap-jacks, or whatever grub was at
hand, apparently with the greatest relish, for it is a
well-known fact, that in 1849, sick people had as good
appetites as those who were well and able to work.
It is not to be wondered at, that in this crowd I failed
to find companions for my expedition. I had everything
ready to go, and had bought a United States rifle and
one of Allen's pepper boxes, but I was doomed to disap-
pointment. Twice I had the promise of company, but
both times the parties backed out, and the season was
now so far advanced that I almost gave up the idea of
going this fall, and returned to Bullard's Bar, where, it
will be remembered, I had the balance of my goods
stored. Among the things, I had here a small quan-
tity of brandy, a liquor highly prized in those days, and
also some lime juice, which was used extensively on the
dio-o^iniys as an antidote for scurvy.
I now thought I was settled at store-keeping for the
winter, but I was to breathe the mountain air and pur-
sue my search for treasure sooner than I had anticipated.
m
m
the
CHAPTER III.
Off for the Mines Again— The Early Discovery of Gold— A
Free Mason of 1820 — An Interest ng Document in San
Francisco — Did the Priests Hold the Secret? — Captain W.
H. Thomas' Account— Under the Wild Onions— "Cut-Eye"
Foster — A Sickly Man from Massachusetts — ^Jim Crow is
Introduced — Over the Range — Facing the Wilds.
One day some colored men came into my store. They
were working below the bar, and after taking a drink
they became genial and began to talk about the diggings
up the river. I gave them to understand that I was
desirous of exploring those regions for the purpose of
prospecting, and after a little while they all agreed to
join me in the attempt to find gold there. Once more I
closed my store. Whatever was of any use to us,
I packed, ready for the trip, and wound up my business
in short order according to regular California style.
We then went as far as Foster's Bar, where we crossed
the river, and on the night of October the 5th, 1849,
we camped on the hills, Once more I was off in search
of treasure, and as I rolled myself in my blanket that
evening, I thought of the ''lumpy gold," the two men
had brought to my store some time ago, strange
visions floated across my mind as I closed my eyes,
and in my dreams I fancied that I was unearthing un-
told millions of hidden treasure.
I cannot here refrain from commenting upon the dis-
covery of gold in California. It is a universal idea that
gold was first discovered in these parts in the year
1848, and we, who were among the early seekers for
27
II i1
J!
butter's mill, COLOMA, CAL. WHERE MARSHALL FIRST DISCOVERED GOLD,
HUNTING FOR GOLD
29
the precious metal, undoubtedly flattered ourselves that
we unearthed secrets which had been hidden from time
immemorial This however was only partly true. It
is a fact that we found gold in locations where hither-
to it had never been known to exist, but on the whole,
California was then known to many as a gold-bearing
country.
On that October night, to which I have referred, I,
for one, considered that we were among the original dis-
coverers, but I soon had experiences, which persuaded
me that I was mistaken. It was not an uncommon
thing to fall in with Indians, who offered gold for trade,
and it seemed reasonable to conclude that if the In-
dians knew of its presence at that period, they might
have known it long before,
I have since learned that the records of the Mon-
terey Custom House show that between 1838 and
1846, during the Spanish rule, as much as $5 000
in washed gold or gold dust was exported to various
parts of the world. During that same period one Don
Alfreds Robinson, who came to California in 1828, took
$1,000 worth of gold to Philadelphia on behalf of Don
Abel Stearns of Los Anoele^, and delivered his iroodsto
the mint in the quaker city. The same Don Abel
Stearns, who had a store at Los Angeles, which was the
most important establishment in the whole region, was
a Massachusetts man, who had received the Spanish
title. In 1820 he was made a Master Mason in the
Washington Lodge of Roxbury, and, probably because of
his affiliation with this important craft, he met with the
most pronounced success in his career. In 183G, at the
age of forty, he married a Miss Bandini, who was then
only fifteen years old, and in addition to being esteemed
the greatest beauty of California, was the daughter of
B^l
80
HUNTING FOR GOLD
one of the most prominent Spanish gentlemen. Stearns
accumulated a considerable fortune during his time, and
a great deal of it was obtained through trading gold from
the Indians.
In regard to the cargo of gold which Robinson took to
Philadelphia in 184"2, there exists a document, represent-
ing the certificate of deposit at the mint, and this inter-
esting paper may still be found among the archives in
the Pioneers' Hall in San Francisco.
When the ([uestion is asked how the fact of the
presence of gold could b^ withheld from the outer
world for so lonir, tlie answer suii;(>'ests itself, that the
secret was ke])t through the efforts of the priesthood.
This particular matter has been al)ly discussed by Cap-
tain W. H. Thomas, president of the New England
Society of California Pioneers, who paid his first visit to
California as early as 1843. In a letter addressed to
the BosTOX Herald the Captain writes as follows:
"This supremacy was at its highest in 17 Go, when
from the missions in San Diego a chain of twenty-four
missions was extended northward, Junipero Serra was
Priest-President of all the missions in California, and
was an intelHgent, persevering, enterprising man. He
was not only instrumental in founding mission after mis-
sion, but he added to the herds thousands of sheep and
cattle.
"I have been six times to California and have talked
with priests of many nationalities — Mexican, Spanish,
Irish and American — and I am confident, from what they
say that Junipero Serra knew about the gold ; but he
was a simjcular character, and ruled with a hand of steel,
so that gold was a word that no one dared to utter. He
had the history of Peru and other foreign countries in
his mind, and he knew that an influx of gold-hunters
I
■4
ho
;oel,
He
s in
ters
I
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1
o2
HUNTING FOR GOLD
! 1
meant terror and destruction and the failure of all his
great plans.
"It is claimed that the first discoveries were in 1848,
when the whole world was turned topsy-turvy with the
astonishing news. 1, myself, was in California in 1843,
and stayed there three years, and I. can positively say
that gold was known here then, for I saw it in Monte-
rey. On Sundays the Indians would come into town,
naked except for a cloth around their loins, and exchange
a little pinch of gold for a drink of arguadiente or na
tive rum. No one knew where they got the gold, hut
sometimes they would have several dollars' worth of the
precious dust. This was an old custom, i'or at Mission
Carmel I interviewed, through an interpreter, an aged
Indian, who said that when he was a hoy gold was
found in the mountains and rivers round about, and the
natives would wash out a ])anful in order to get a good
drunk on Sunday, which Christian Indians were forbidden
to do He thouu'ht that there was still i>old in the nioun-
tains, but he was so old that he had forojotten where it
was.
"In 1844 Andres Castillero, the same person who
afterward discovered the New Almaden quicksilver
mine in Santa Clara county, while traveling from Los
Angeles to Monterey, found near the Santa Clara river
a great number of water- worn pebbles, which he gathered
up and carried with him to Santa Barbara. He there
exhibited them, said they were a peculiar species of iron
pyrites and declared that, according to Mexican miners,
wherever they were found there was a likelihood of gold
being also found. A ranchero named Francisco Lopez,
who was living on the Piru creek — a branch of the
Santa Clara river — but who happened at the time to be
at Santa Barbara, heard Castillero's statements and ex-
I
I
3
f
"^
HUNTING FOR GOLD
33
aiiiined his speeitnens. Some months afterward, havintr
returned home, he went out to search for strayed cattle.
At noon, when he dismounted from his horse for the
purpose of resting, he observed a few wild onions grow-
in<f near where he lay. He pulled them up and in so
doino" noticed the same kind of pebbles as those to which
Castillero had called his attention. Remembering what
Castillero had said about them he took up a handful of
earth and upon carefully examining it discovered gold. ■
The news of this discovery, at the place which was
called San Francisquito, about thirty-five miles north-
east of Los Angeles, soon spread. In a few weeks a
great many persons were engaged in washing and winnow-
in<r the sands and earth in search of crold.
"The auriferous fields were found to extend from a
point on the Santa Clara river about fifteen or twenty
n\iles from its mouth over all the country drained by its
upper waters, and thence easterly to Mount San Bernar-
dino.
"On May 14th, 1843, Alvardo wrote to the Prefect of
the district, reproving him for not having given official
notice of the discovery, and directing him to gather and
forward an account of all circumstances of interest relat-
ing to the gold, for transmission to the Supreme Govern-
ment.
"From that time to the present day there has been
more or less working of these mines, but no places of very
great richness have been found, and none to compare
with those afterward discovered on the tributaries of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin."
The reader will no doubt pardon my deviating from
the straight narrative, which I will now resume, but the
matter presented in Captain Thomas' letter seems to me
well worth quoting. On the morning of the 6th of Octo-
1
m
I' ll
84
HUNTING FOR GOI.D
ii >!
^ii
ber, we assonibled at the spring and liad l)rc!akfast, and
then a consultation took place ainonijf some of us, as to
who should join the expedition, and who should stay
behind.
The reason for this was that there were about forty
Kanakas, who had worked with the colored men at my
camp, and who now wanted to join us. But as they
had neither money nor rations, they expected to live on
our provisions during our prospectinj^ tour, and as we
did not propose to make pre-arrangements for a famine
in camp, we came to the conclusion that the Kanakas
must stay behind. I therefore told them that if they
intended to come with us, they must look out for
themselves, as we could not spare them any provisions,
neither did we know where we were sjfoinyj, nor when
we should return, and our chances of starvation were
quite as good as our chances of success.
This decided the matter and limited our company to
two white men, including myself, a white boy named
Michael Duvarney, who proved himself a little hero, and
seven colored men. I soon perceived that my Cauca-
sian companion — I mean the adult — was not the kind
of person to do any good in the wilds of the mountains.
I think the poor fellow was from Michigan, and he was
one of the most dejected looking objects I ever beheld.
I first thousi'ht that he was love-sick, but when I saw
him spending his evenings at the camp-fire swallowing
Brandreth's pills as quickly as a chicken would eat
dough, I concluded that it was his stomach, and not
his heart which was out of order. At all events, his
presence was a decided damper on the whole company,
with his melancholy appearance, his pills and his spleen.
I soon discovered that the rest thouofht with me, that
our Michigan man was not a fit subject for our company,
k
'€■
HUNTING KOR OOIj:)
;i5
aiul wIr'11 we came to tlio Slate Ranijfo, I advised
him to return, A few words al)out the liardsliips tliat
awaited us, the cliances of bein^ torn to pieces by griz-
zlies, and other minor matters, which might impede our
march to success, soon persuaded our friend, in future,
to swallow his pills in more congenial surroundings, and
he returned, to the evident joy of all concerned.
While we were camped at Slate Ilange, one of our
men went back for a Kanaka and an Indian. The Ka
naka he returned with, was Jim Crow, whose name still
lives in those regions, and of whom I shall have more
to say later on. After his arrival we nK)ved to the
camp of *'Cut-Eye" Foster, whom I now mot for the
first time, and bought and distributed a supply of Hour.
Fluster's camp was then close to ours, in what was then
known as Oak Valley, and I tried my best to get all
possible information from him. He seemed to think
that prospects, in the comparatively unexplored regions,
were good, but held that it was now too late in the
season to venture so far into the mountains, and as a
matter of fact, we saw several white men returning. I
felt sure that had my companions belonged to the same
race, they would not have desired to go 'till spring, but
as it w^as, we were all determined to push on, and chose
our route, not along the river bank, as "Cut Eye" ad-
vised, but across the ridge by way of the present eleva-
tion of the Mountain House.
I have a lively recollection of getting ready to go,
when some of our men undertook to clean our fire-arms.
They took them all to pieces, and having made a roar-
ing fire, placed them upon it. Many of the barrels were
charged, and as they became heated they began to go
off, and a running fire was ke})t up for sometime. Shot
and bullets were flying in all directions, and everybody
1
80
HUNTING FOR COLD
I
liuHteiicd to take shelter bi'liind tho trees. I was just
retiiniiii</ through the woods, and heariiiL? tlie fusilhide,
(|uickened my pace to see wliat the racket was about,
when I was suddeidv lialted hv niv own men, who
shouted to me to keep behind tlie trees. For a while I
was at a loss to understand the situation, but wluui I
realized it, I could not help .smilin<r, althouii^h I made it
understood that in future we would clean our fire-arms
in a somewhat difiorent manner.
We bade ^ood bye to "Cut-Eye," and made for the
wilderness with the winter close at hand, but we relied
upon our courage, our determination and our physical
strength.
w
CHAPTER IV.
Through tho Woods — Meeting Two (IrizzlieH — Across the River in
u Hurry — McNiiir's iHhind — Tho C'olor of Gold— Over th(*
llidge — We Strike tho lliver — A Noino in tho BuhIioh — Hound
tho Point — A Scene that Charmed Us — The Forks at Last —
Sullen Miners — IVIoving Camp — Mules on tho Hillside— Camp-
ed on the Yuba — Reminiscences of Philo Haven.
Wg had not gone very far, when we came upon two
small trees, whieh had been hlazed to indicate the road
to the river at Goodyear's Bar, hut we did not care to
start at this })oint and so kept up the divide, until we
reached a place where now stands Galloway's Ranch.
Here we made a halt and held a consultation as to how
to apprt)ach the river. Our journey resumed, we struck
a l)lind trail, which left us in the midst of the thicket,
hut we did not care to go back, and made our way
through the chapparal, until at last we reached the top
ot the ridge, which separates the two canyons, later
known as Jim Crow and Secret Canyons. No sooner
had we reached this altitude, than we met with an
adventure which rather startled us. As our mules
Were jogging along, carrying the pack, and we came
after, puffing and blowing with the exertions of the
ascent, a grizzly incjuisitively approached the animals
and so scared them that they started down the hillside
at a rate which would have done credit to any equine
racer, and for awhile we wondered whether we should
ever have the good luck to see our frying pans, rockers
and the rest of the outfit again. I did not see the bear,
and up to that time considered myself somewhat un-
87
38
HUNTING FOR GOLD
I
III
fortunate in regard to seeing the animal so characteristic
of CaHfornia, for he always got out of the way before I
could clap eyes on him, even when he succeeded in
scaring one of the company. One night however, as I
lay rolled up in my blankets and soutid asleep, I was
LOOKING FOR THE COLOR
roused by the warm breath of a grizzly, who quickly
decamped when I made a sudden motion, and he found
that the place v^as already occupied. But I was not
lono' to remain without an introduction to the Kinor of
the California forest.
'j
I
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1
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
39
When we had pulled ourselves together after the
scare, and quieted the frightened mules, we started down
the hill aiM' ^iiuately made our camp at a point which
has since been called McNair's Island. Here some of
the company tried a pan or two of dirt, looking for the
color, but it proved pretty hard to raise.
Meanwhile, three of us took a stroll up the river to
explore the locality, and in sauntering back to camp, we
had the second adventure of the day. Charley Wilkins,
who was walking a little ahead, suddenly stopped, and
})ointing to a moving mass of something which was
coming forwai'd from the brush, exclaimed: "What is
that?" But he did not wait for an answer, for we all
simultaneously perceived that the unshapely object was
a huge grizzly, who came to bid us welcome. Never did
three men vacate the space they occupied more quickly
than we did. We fairly flew towards the river and
plunged in, making for the opposite shore at full speed.
The bank was high and steep, and in our endeavors to
climb up by holding on to grass or loose rocks, we fell
backwards into the water several times, splashing about
like young ducks and never even daring to look 'round.
When we ultimately got ashore there was not a sign of
the enemy, who evidently had never attempted to pur-
sue us.
We now made for our camp, and arming ourselves
with the whole arsenal at our command, all hands march-
ed out to kill the bear, but he had gone, leaving nothing
but his track. From that day henceforth however I
was satisfied that I liad seen a grizzly, and no mistake
about it.
As soon as we had returned from our fruitless pursuit
some of the company went across the river to a point
opposite Secret Canyon, where some work had already
40
HUNTING FOR GOI.D
*
f
in
1 i
boeri done, and here we found the first gold since leaving
Builard's Bar. We moved our camp across to the flat
and went prospecting up and down the river. In some
iew places we found gold, but not in any quantity, as it
never ran over a dollar to the pan. The most gold seemed
to be at Negro Bar, situated a short distance from Omit's
Flat, but, seeing that the locality would not pan out
satisfactorily, we decided to strike camp and look for
the North Fork. Of this we had heard various reports
and, thinking that the best way to find it was by going
North, we steered our course up the hill in that di-
rection, leaving McNair's Island behind us. It took us
nearly half a day to reach the top of the steep hill, and
on our arrival there a poor prospect greeted us, for, al-
though we thought we could see from the lay of the
land, where the North Fork must be, it was by no
means clear to us how to get there. For the purpose
of finding water and also tlie best way of getting down
this dry and barren ridge, we now unpacked our traps,
and, dividing ourselves into two parties, we went about
reconnoitering the country. I, together with tliree
others, followed the ridge, in what I took to be the di-
rection of the Forks, and when we came to the rocky
point above Breyfogle Flat, we suddenly beheld the
river shining before us in the sunliiijht. Ah me, how
pleased we were at that sight ! We now knew tliat our
judgment had been correct, and we hastened down to
the stream and quenched our thirst in the rippling waters.
Two of the men wanted to go back at once, but
Albert and I were determined to proceed, and leaving
them behind, we kept on down the river. W^e had not
gone far, however, when we were overtaken by our com-
panions.
They had heard some mysterious sound in the bushes
H
HUNTING FOR GOLD
41
beliind them, and the experiences of the day had made
them nervous. They were only too pleased to join us
ag-ain, and so we went along the river together, until we
came to the first island above the Forks, when they
once more insisted on returning. I then told them that
if they would only go round the next point with me, I
would go back at once, if nothing particular came in
view which demanded our attention, and to this they
consented.
I have often thcmght since how the curtain of fate
may be likened to the thinnest fabric of gauze, as it
severs us from circumstances or conditions, with which
we are united the moment it rises. Had those men
refused to listen to me that day, and prevailed upon me
to turn back before rounding that point, who can tell
what would have been my lot in after life ? It was the
traversing of those few hundred yards which decided so
nmch that afterwards became of interest to me, and
gave me for many years to come, friends, influence, even
renown, and to-day, notwithstanding bitter experiences,
many cherished memories.
As we rounded the point we beheld the Forks, the
place of which we were in search, and which afterwards
received the name of Downieville, while it became one
of the most prominent points in the history of the Gold-
en Age of California.
The scene that burst upon us was one of marvelous
beauty, and after these many years it still lies before me
like a lovely panorama, in my recollection of the moment
when I first saw it. The silence of the woods was
bioken only by the rushing of the meeting currents below
and the sou";hinof of the breeze throui>h the foliai^e. The
sun was in the western sky, causing a variation of light
and shadow to fall upon the landscape, which was ex-
42
HUNTING FOR GOLD
i
ceetlingly pleasing. The hillsides were covered with
oaks, bending their crooked branches in phantastic forms,
while here and there a mighty pine towered above them,
and tall willows waved their slender branches, as it were,
nodding us a welcome. They grew along the branch
of the North Fork, where now stands the Cravcroft
building, and on the present site of the St. Charles Hotel
stood a cluster of pines. Down on the very brink of
the river grew a beautiful ijjrove of Fir trees, and as we
So '
approached, a frightened deer ran from the thicket and
made for the woods. Near a little spring, which bubbled
up and made the surroundings look fresh and verdant,
stood a few pieces of bark on end— the only sign that
human foot had ever trod this region, and further indi-
cating that here at some previous time the Indians had
camped.
Add to this the waters leaping over rock and bowlders,
and the clear azure sky stretching like a canopy over
the whole landscape, and you have the picture, as far as
I can describe it, that 1 first beheld, when I approached
the Forks.
When we came to the Junction of the two streams
and made our observations, Albert pointed out to me
the fact that the water in the North Fork was not so
clear as that in its sister branch. There could be but
one explanation of this phenomenon — that men were at
work somewhere above, "Hunting For Gold." None were
now inclined to return. Curiosity and suspense got the
better of reluctance and we started up the stream to ex-
plore,
After tramping a considerable distance we found that
our conclusions had been right. We heard voices and
the clanging of tools, and presently came upon a company
of three men, who were at work on a little bar, just below
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HUNTING FOR GOI<D
4d
the Bluebanks. The men seemed considerably surprised
to see us, and as it were, at once, instinctively tried
to hide what gold they had in their pan, but one of our
boys caught sight of it nevertheless, and thus we were
assured, not only that there was gold in that location,
but also that it was quite different looking from what
we had seen at Bullard's Bar.
I tried to get into conversation with the three men,
but it was of no avail. When I asked them about the
diggings, they would answer me, **yes;" "no;" "dunno;"
"can't say," or pretend not to understand me at all, and
after a quarter of an hour, spent in interrogations, I was
no wiser than when I first started. I took a drink of
water, and lighting my pipe, tried them on a different
lay.
" What chance is there to get a claim here ? " I asked.
It seemed that I had struck the keynote of conversation
with them, for they at once became more communicative.
"The chances are slim," they said, but they had a
claim they would sell, and they went on using their best
powers of oratory in order to induce us to strike a bar-
gain, there and then, something which, however, none
of us would think of doing. These three men were
working there in one crevice, one digging, another
carrymg dirt and the third working the rocker, and,
from their manner of speech, there was every indication
that they verily believed that when that crevice was
worked out, there was no more gold to be found in Cal-
ifornia.
But their sullenness and reticence did not discourage
us in the least. We knew that if there was anything
to be had in these quarters, we had the right kind of
company for locating it, and we determined before many
days to make our new neighbors aware of the fact. So
44
HUNTING FOR GOI.D
we left them to themselves and returned to our camp to
report progress, and there was much rejoicing that eve-
ning.
WORK [NO THE ROCKER
The next morning wo were up bright and early, and
struck camp to remove to the Forks. The trail was bad,
and every now and then a mule would slide down the
declivity, sometimes a hundred feet or more. In order
to keep them from going clear to the bottom we had to
use the long ropes, used for tying them up with at
night. We carried the one end coiled up in our hands,
the mule being at the other end, and when the animal
seemed likely to go too far down the hill, we slewed
him head up, or, in sailor parlance, headed him to the
wind. We had quite a hard time of it getting along in
HUNTING FOR GOLD
45
I
-A
I
Si
•"•il
a
this rashion, moreover as it took us two days and one
iiii^dit to travel from McNair's Island to the F"orks, and
all the time without water. How different now, when
the same journey can be made in one brief hour, but
such are the changes wrought by time.
As soon as the thirsty nmles saw the water in the
river below, there was no more necessity for driving
them. They scampered off on their own account, and
never stopped till they stood in the water, drinking it in
long, refreshing draughts. We unpacked on Jersey Flat,
and I spent my first night at the Forks of the Yuba.
In the following pages I shall have considerable to
say about this spot and its surroundings, but, as I write
of my arrival there, I am put in mind of one of the very
first men I met in this locality, whom I have known in
after life as a friend and a gentlemen. This man is Mr.
Philo Haven.
Mr. Haven was round those qi^arters in the early
part of '51. Many years after he reminded me of the
Indian shelter, referred to, and agreed with me that
when I came on the ground, there was no other camp
at the Forks. He told me that when he arrived at
the South Fork he came upon a man skinning a deer,
and being hungry, offered him any price for a few
]i()unds of the meat; but the fellow would not sell any,
not even when he was offered pound for pound — gold
for venison. Mr. Haven did not know that I was at
the Forks and had provisions, and when he made up
his mind to go up that way, he paid a fellow $160 for
a lot of half-decayed goods, which had been brought to
Goodyear's Bar from a deserted mining store. The
price was four dollars per pound all round, including
hams, ffour,. nails, tobacco and other necessaries, but the
edibles were hardly fit for eating. When he came ta
46
HUNTING FOR GOLD
•ft 'f <
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my camp, we were already well settled and kept a sort
of open bouse for all travelers, who were welcome
to share anything with us, which we had to eat.
Charlev Wilkins and Albert Callis, the two colored
men, would cook for them and make them feel at home,
and as far back as those early days I had become known
as Major Downie, and travelers in search of shelter or
relief were often told to go to Major Downie's cabin.
One thing I feel called upon to discuss here to some
extent — the first discovery of gold at the Forks. I am
aware that in one history of California, it is claimed
that Frank Anderson was the original discoverer, where-
as I claim that the precious metal was first unearthed
by our company, and in this, Mr. Haven agrees with
me, in as much as he considers it a mistake to give the
honor to Anderson. It is at all events a fact that this
man did not arrive at the flat till after we had been
there for some time. He, and another man named
Jack Culton, came along with Mr. Haven and were
engaged by him to work a small, rich bar, for which
they were paid fifty dollars per day, but the party did
not leave Bullard's Bar for the Forks, till the 9th of
January, '51. The bar that Mr. Haven was workino-,
panned out well, for after a comparatively short stay,
the company — four in number — left with 130 pounds of
Gold. For my own part, I merely claim that we were
the first white men who took out gold at the Forks,
and I firmly believe that the Indians were aware of its
presence there long, before our arrival.
if!
CHAPTER V.
Down to Business — A Fish Story — Lead Weights and Brass
Weights — Ore vicing — Breyfogle Flat — A Mule in a Hornet's
Nest — Mamoo the Egyptian — A Negro from Virginia — Rich
Finds — Treacherous Friends — Mr. John Potter — Flour Worth
More Than Gold — A Very Sick Man — On the Site of Downie-
ville.
I have remarked in the previous chapter that I relied
upon mycompany for finding gold in these environments,
if gold were to be found. I knew that as prospectors
wc had the right kind of men in our crowd, and as will
be seen, we soon had an opportunity to astonish our
sulky neighbors.
First of all we arranged matters so as to operate
systematically. One man was to keep camp, another to
look after the mules, and the rest went in twos or threes
up and down the river in search of patches, which
would be worth working. We made it a provision that
everyone should have whatever he happened to get in-
to his pan. Anyone, who chose to do so, might go
alone, but everybody had to report his day's doings in
camp at night. It was also made a rule that whoever
discovered any rich bar should have the first choice of
the ground, and I may say that these regulations were
strictly adhered to and found to be of great common
advantage. They prevented a good deal of underhand
work and gjave us all a fair chance in the undertakinof,
for without them, two men, for instance, might go out
together, and if they made a find, divide up between
them, and report no progress. a
•)[ \\
48
HUNTIN'd l'"OR GOLD
lltliiH;;
In speaking of our start at tlie Forks, I ain reminded
of what my reader will no doubt call a fish story It
is; but it is nev^ertheless a true one, and let this he said
with all due deference to any narrator of |)iscatorial
adventure. While we were cain[)ed on Jersey Flat,
Jiin Crow causjfht a monster salmon, weighin«>^ nearly
fourteen pounds. We boiled the fish in the camp kettle,
and afterwards, when we examined the water, we found
gold at the bottom of it. Truly those have been
appropriately called:
"The days of old—
The days of Gold."
We had a somewhat varied experience for some time
after our arrival in these parts. We discovered a
small bar at the lower end of Zumwalt Flat, which show-
ed a good prospect, and therefore moved our camp u[)
that way. It should be born in mind that I am calling
many of these places by the names they received after
my first stay there in '49. On Zumwalt Flat we went to
work with a rocker, and the first day washed out about
twelve ounces. As this looked very encouraging, we
stayed here, till we considered the bar worked out.
While in this vicinity I dug a hole near a small bar
that was afterwards named Tin-cup Diggings, and found
it would pay about one dollar to the pan. For some
time I worked by myself, but as I could get nobody to
help me, I abandoned it.
We had some difficulty in weighing our gold. Some
claimed to be making from thirteen to fourteen ounces
a day, crevicing in the banks, but this measure was
obtained by means of a lead weight, of which Jack
Smith used to say with much indignation, that it was
fit only for killing dogs with. We then started regu-
lating our weights and did that by means ofahalf-ounco
HUNTING FOR GOI.D
49
brass weight. Wo ultimately succeeded in gettinir,
what we took to be a correct eight-ounce weight, and
this was brought into requisition almost every day, for
(juite a while.
We returned to the Forks above, and worked on a
bar there, until we thought that it was worked out, but
afterwards found gold all along the banks, sometimes
several hundred dollars within the short space of a few
hours, very seldom using even a shovel. Our principal
mining implements consisted of a butcher's knife, a tin
pan and a crowbar. Whenever wg saw a place that
looked promising, we would cross the river on the rocks,
if it happened to be on the opposite side, and delving
into the crevice, dig out what there was in it, so quickly
that we fairly astonished our sulky neighbors, who a few
days before had taken us for innocents in the wilderness.
Our principal grievance when crevicing, was the
scarcity of dirt, which often caused us great disappoint-
ments, for just as our hopes had been raised to the
highest pitch of anticipation, the rich spot would give
out, and after spooning and scraping for a while, we
would realize that we were hunting a phantom treasure.
The season was now far advanced, and it became a
matter of serious consideration whether we should face
the winter in the mountains, or return to less exposed
(juarters. So we held a consultation and ultimately con-
cluded to stay, provided we could find a bar to work on
and at the same time continue to lay in a sufficient sup-
ply of provisions. We gave up the crevices and went in
search of a bar where plenty of dirt could be easily ob-
tained.
Four of our company went up the South Fork to the
place which was afterwards known as Breyfogle Flat,
a"d there found a prospect in the south bank, which
1 i'l
50
IIUNTINd I'OK C.OI.l)
|l
I
they tliou^lit would do us tor the winter. We then de-
terndiied to move up there, and i^ot ready. 1 paid a
visit to our iuhospitublo neighbors, and l)oui;ht froui
them a duof-out or burnt-out rocker, for which I <jrave
one ounce, and then we set out for our new cam[)ing
ground. VVe had tiie same trouble gettin<»- our
nudes along the hillside as described in a previous
chapter, and adopted the same tactics for keeping
them from sliding down to the bottom, as has al-
ready been mentioned. My mule met with an ac-
cident which caused the party both surprise and
merriment in our little crowd. The poor brute got
foul of a hornets' nest. Under normal conditions
that mule was as sedate, sober-minded, and quiet
a mule as ever carried a pack, and as long as I had
kr.own him he had never attempted any pace outside a
walk. Our surprise may, therefore, be easily imagined,
when all of a sudden, without any perceptible reason,
he kicked up his heels cloudwards, then stood on his
tail-end, and then for a moment left the alluvial soil al-
toixether and humx between heaven and earth, and ulti-
mutely, on reaching the latter once more, made otf at
the pace of Tam 'o Shanter's famous mare, I saw ev-
erything thjit I ^-'^d strapped on his back, tiy otf. Fry-
ing-pan, blanks cker, everything he was carrying
was strewr uhe course he took, and for every time
anything c ^ otF the pack, he seemed to quicken his
pace. Only one fortnate circumstance occurred during
the whole atfair — he chanced to run in the right direc-
tion, and when we at last caught up with him, we were
still on the right track, but my rocker was smashed to
atoms. When we arrived at the bar, we found that an-
other party had reached it cihead of us, and therefore
had the first clioice of ground. I went to work with
I::
HUNTING FOR GOLD
51
Mo moo on a portion of the bar, facino^ the river for
ahout ten feet. This Muinoo was an Egyptian and a
follower of Mahomet, the Prophet of *'the only God."
He was horn in Alexandria, and was a sailor by occupa-
tion. He came to San Francisco in '49, and hearing of
the discoveries made by John Marshall and Ca[)tain
Sutter, left the ship for the mines, as did nearly every
sailor in those days. I first met him at Bullard's Bar,
where he was in company with the Kanakas and Jim
Crow, and as he appeared to be an ajiparently good fel-
low, I had williDgly admitted him to our company.
It was on a Sunday evening when we pitched our
camp on the new ground, and bright and early Monday
morning we were ready for work. The piece that had
been allotted to Albert Callis, proved particularly rich,
and gold could be seen in considerable quaintity by sim-
ply removing the dirt with the foot. As I have said,
we arrived at our camp on a Sunday, but although
Albert kicked the dirt otf in sundry places, and saw the
yellow gold, he conscientiously covered the metal up
again, as he would not remove it on the Sabbath. He
came originally from Mathews County, Virginia, and I
believe, was a rimaway slave.
He afterwards settled in Downieville, married and had
quite a family, which he supported partly by working
at his trade as a barber. I may state here that none of
the darkies belonging to my company (I mean those of
African blood), could have been induced to work Sunday,
the effect, no doubt, of early training. But by and by
Jim Crow came along. His religious and moral senti-
ments were both far below zero, and it did not take him
long to remo\\3 the "taboo" from all the gold he could
get siofht of.
On the Monday two of us took out seventeen ounces,
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62
HUNTING FOR GOLD
,; i"
on Tuesday, twenty-four, on Wednesday, twenty-nine,
and early on Thursday, we had taken out forty ounces —
as much as fourteen in one pan. Mainoo, who was
cookinsj: breakfast for us when we brou«»lit the ofold into
camp, h)oked with amazement at the treasure, and it
seems to me I can yet hear him ejaculate : "Dam place
worked out now ! No more gold I No good ! "
It was now high time for us to send below for provis-
ions, and eight starts out, taking with them all the
mules. Jim Crow went with the rest, and they all
intended to return in a few days. When I reflect
upon the day when these men left camp, and the days
that followed, it seems evident to me that every human
being must have a mission to fulfill in this life, and
until that is fulfilled, death would not dare overtake
him. Tlie four of us left in camp were, Albert Callis,
Charles Wilkins, Michael Duvarney and myself, and as
we bade good-bye, to the departing ones, we expected
that they would speedily return, and little anticipated
treachery. It became our lot to wait in vain. For
many days we looked in expectation towards the direc-
tion from which they should return, but no one appeared,
and but for providential circumstances and individual
determination on our own part, our bones would have
bleached in the wilderness, where we had been left to
starve.
Many months had elapsed, when I again saw Jim
Crow. Our next meeting was in the following spring,
at Crow City, at the head of Jim Crow Canyon ,as these
places are now called. He was in company with a
number of Kanakas, and when I first caus^ht sio;ht of
him, he was sitting face to face with little Mike, who
was asking him all sorts of questions, as to why he did
not return to our camp with the mules and provisions,
w
w
f
1
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1 - ♦]
'V
«.
f
u
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-. 'h'
i.M ' f I
5t
HUNTING FOR GOLD
and wliat he had been doing all the time. The truth of
the matter was, that Jim had never expected to see us
alive again. He was making his way back with a
company to the place where he had left us, to get some
more of the gold, taking it for granted that we had
starved to death long ago, and they had lost the trail.
Our meeting was accidental and more will be said of
this later on. The rest of the boys, who w^ent with him
had gone on a s[ 'ee and drank or gambled their dust
away. In those days it was a connnon thing for miners,
to come down to any settlement to change their dust
for silver, often at any price, just to get coin enough
with vrhich to play poker, and my late companions had
fo:^gotten all about us over cards and whisky. Let me
say here that I was never a heavy drinker. My favorite
liquor, when disposed to indulge at all, was wdiisky,
but I never drank to excess, and I never learned to
play at cards during all the years I spent in the mines.
The four of us went to work with a will, but soon the
rain set in, and our prospects began to look rather gloomy.
The flour sack began to get more precious than the gold
bag, and nobody came to our rescue, while Albert was
lying sick in the camp. In this dilemma I made a trip
down to the Forks, to see if I could fall in with anybody
from the bars below, or perhaps hear something of my
company. On this excursion I met John Potter, and
told him of the fix we were m. Mr. Potter said that he
had a partner down at Goodj^ear's Bar, and that they
would like to winter up here, if there was any way of
getting provisions up, and we discussed the situation
together, and both returned to our camp, where we
found Albert so bad that he had lost the use ofhisleofs,
while we could now make an over-hand knot in the flour
bag. I have often, afterwards, in the crowded city, seen
^'^
HUNTING FOR GOLD
56
.'Cll
people begging for a small pittance, with which to buy
bread, and it has then occurred to nie how strange the
reverse of that picture looks. • There we were with a
bag full of gold, anxious to pay dearly for anything that
would sustain life, with no chance of purcliasing even
the poorest meal. The situation was becoming desper-
ate, and something had to be done.
We then decided to take Potter and his partner,
William Griffith, into our company, and as we had given
up all hopes of the return of our men, it was decided
that Potter should go down to Goodyear's Bar, to make
arrangements for provisions, while we moved to the
Forks, After he had left us, we started on our journey,
but no one can imaofine what difficulties we had to fitrlit
with. I had found a poor, half-starved mule In the
woods. It had evidently strayed from some departed
company, and I brought it into camp. On the back of
this wretched animal we seated our sick comrade, and
packing our tra})s on our own shoulders, we made the
best of it, while the cold November rain continued to
fall. We crossed the river, where Craycoft's mill was
afterwards built, and thus entering" the Forks from the
branch, we made a roaring fire and settled on the site,
which w.cS later on called Downieville. Our tent was
the only one at that time, as nobody else was then
camping in the solitude of these wild surroundings, and
here we now anxiously awaited the arrival of John Potter.
During mv absence at Goodvear's Bar, which will be
discussed in the following chapter, one of our party
started building a cabin. The next party to arrive was
a man named Kelly with a company, and soon after
came Mr. S. Wood and his company. From these lat-
ter, who settled on Jersev Flat, I tried in vain to obtain
some rations. Mr. Wood had ixone back and left a man
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
hi i
in charge of his stores, and he would not be persuaded to
part with any of them, even at exhorbitant prices, which
we offered. I must state here in justification of Mr.
Wood, that he afterwards expressed his great regret at
this, and assured us that had he, or his partner, been on
the ground, we would certainly have obtained relief.
As it was, there was nothing left for us but "chewing the
rag" and await the return of the absent John Potter.
\
%
CHAPTER VI.
Death of a Friend — Audrew Goodyear — Bone Soup — At Sim-
mons' Camp — Cooking Under Arms — Four Dead Mules —
"Cut-Eye" Out of Temper— The Ax On The Ledge— Back at
the Forks — The First Dwelling in Downieville — Christmas
— The Stars and Stripes in the Sierras — Magnificent Scenery.
When John Potter arrived, he brought the somewhat
discouraging news that provisions were on the way, but
not in sufficient quantity ^o last us through the winter.
Miles Goodyear was very ill and not expected to live,
and he advised me to go down at once and secure more
supplies, as Andrew, the younger brother of the sick
man, had intimated that in case Miles died, he would
leave the mountains. I hesitated for a few days, and
meanwhile received news of Mr. Goodyear's death,
which occurred, as far as I can place the date, on the
12th of November, 1849. His remains were buried in
a rocker, but were afterwards removed by his brother
Andrew, and interred in consecrated ground, in more
civilized surroundings.
As soon as I heard of Mr. Goodyear's death, I set
out for the bar to procure provisions, taking with me
Billy Griffith and Mike Duvarney. We passed the
place, on our road, where they had buried Goodyear,
and soon reached the camp. We were doomed to dis-
appointment and hardships, for expecting a supply of
provisions, and being unwilling to stay in the locality,
Andrew had already made an agreement to sell them
to Sexton, Russell, and Dr. Vaughn, the physician who
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
had attended his brother durinijf his iUness. At the
time when we struck tlie bar, thev were having^ rather
hard liick. Rations were very scarce, and men were
ekeing out an existence by subsisting upon a beef they
had found lying upon the bar. By the time we arrived
the meat was all gone, but they continued making soup
of the bones, and the kettle containing this, to our pal-
ates, savory mess, was kept boiling for all it was worth
It is wonderful what one can relish when hunger drives
him.
Six head of cattle were expected up at this time, and
Andrew agreed to let us have two of them, Woods and
his partner having contracted for the rest. On this oc-
casion Andrew Goodyear showed himself a generous,
large-hearted man. He charged us only one hundred
dollars a head, althou^^h he knew that starvino; and in
distress as we were, we would gladly have given him
four or fiv^e times that amount. He also gave me a lit-
tle rice and some dried apples, which I sent up to the
Forks. Kindness under such circumstances, makes an
indelible impression upon one's mind, and in the hour of
distress it has the same soothing effect as has the light
from the cottage window, that shines through the dark
and stormy night, and shows the wayfarer that he is
near his friends. In the years that have since passed,
I have often thought of this incident, and realized how
few there were — and I may say, are — who would have
acted in the same spirit as did Andrew Goodyear.
I now made arrangements with Messrs. Sexton, Rus-
sell and Dr. Vaughn, to purchase the expected pro-
visions from them for the sum of $3,900. The price
amounted to two dollars per pound all around, including
the sacks, which were wet with snow.
I was anxious to get over the river so as to go
IN
HUNTING FOR GOLD
59
down to meet the men who were bringing up the
goods, but the water had risen — it was rushing past,
and I could neither wade nor swim across. Griffith was
camped on the opposite shore in a small blanket tent,
and I indicated to him that I desired him to fell a tree
which was bendinix over the river, so as to form a brid<jfe
for me to cross upon. He understood me, and at once
set to work. For two days he labored hard, but when
at last the tree fell, and I was ready to go over, the
swift current swept it down the stream, and I was still
on the wronfj side of the river. So there was nothino-
to do but to await further developments. But it was
very tedious waiting. The bones were getting scarce,
and our larder was at a minimum, when, just as we
were wondering how the hide would do, if properly
cooked, we were saved such culinary experiment, for the
water fell, and we were enabled to cross the river and
join Bill Griffith.
As it happened, it did not seem to make much differ-
ence on which side of the river we were. We had on-
ly got into another starvation camp, and we concluded
that we would have to take to the hills to find some-
thing with which to keep us alive, and once more Mike,
Bill and myself set out, accompanied by a man named
Morrison. Having succeeded in climbing the hill,
then we went up the divide hoping to get to Simmons'
camp, where the firm of flawley, Sinnnons & Co., kept
a store. We had all we could do to make any headway
on this journey. A man's heart depends upon his
stomach, to a great extent, but if the If^tter is as emp-
ty as a vacuum, and has been so for so;ne time, the for-
mer is inclined to go below par. We had our mis-
givings as to the result of the tramp, lest some of us
vs;
\$
GO
HUNTING FOR GOLD
' r
A LONELY MOUNTAINEER
should give out before reaching our
destination, and little Mike was the
first to yield to the hardships we
had to endure. After all, he was
only a child, and the little fellow bore
himself most bravely
until he was fairly
worn out. We tried
to carry him on our
backs, but found that
strength did not allow
proceed in this way, and
ultimately decided to
e Morrison behind with
boy, while Bill and I
pushed on towards the camp.
Our difficulties in-
creased. The No-
vember day soon
came to a close, and
night, cold and dark,
fell upon us. Still
we went on through
the v/oods. There
was a trail, which in
the daytime we could
have easily found,
but in the dark we
often found ourselves
wandering from it,
and one of us would
then stand still, while
the other would go in
search of the trail.
HUNTING FOR GOIyD
61
Every now and then we would call out to one another,
and thus, in this manner, we moved onward, until a
welcome li<jht,shinin<jf towards us from a distance, denoted
that we were approaching the end of our journey.
Sinnnons' store was at the time poorly stocked, but
he was a j^ood, generous-hearted fellow, and gladly
shared his scanty supply with us. He gave us a bottle
of brandy and a few slap-jacks, and after resting awhile,
Bill went back to Morrison and Mike to bringf them
relief, and the next morning they all arrived in camp.
I spent quite a pleasant evening at Simmons' camp,
and after these many years I still remember the com-
pany that was there, some of whom were particularly
good fellows. Among the rest was Tim Harris, who
was full of fun and a most amiable companion. He was
waiting for Sexton to come up with his provisions and
did much to entertain the company. We had a joke the
next morning, as to who tumbled out of the bunk during
the night, Harris or I; and to this day the question has
never been settled, I am certain however that Tim was
the man that had the "sugar in his pocket." Simmons
treated us very well indeed, and when the rest came up
he shared his flour with us, and we were now in clover,
I must admit with every due respect to the temperance
cause and its advocates, that our brandy proved, "the
staff of life"to us, notwithstanding all that has been said
to the contrary. It is true, no doubt, that there are
circumstances and conditions of life, when liquor is not
absolutely necessary, but let every honest temperance
preacher try a little starving in the mountains with
nothing to drink but snow water, and it is just possible
that the whole fraternity will feel called upon to change
opinion.
We stayed at Simmons' camp for several days.
m-
G2
HUNTING FOR GOLD
■ 1
\
|t
■
}
1
I
1
i
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1 '
i
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11 I
expecting that the provisions, which were on the way,
would arrive, but the party hrin^jini^ them up had been
delayed by the Hoods, caused by the incessant rain, and
could not L*'et across the river. I became impatient and
Set out to look for them, expecting to meet them, and if
I should fail in this, I intended to go as far as Nye's
crossing and buy rations. But they had succeeded
after trreat ditKculties, in crossing at P'oster's Bar, and I
fell in with them between this })lace and Slate Range,
and then turned back with them. When we got to
Goodyear's Bar, everybody there seemed delighted at
seeing such a quantity of provisions at once, a sight tliat
had not been presented to them for some time. We had
the greatest difficulty in cooking our meals, for Andrew
Goodyear's men were all Indians, and there were fifteen
or sixteen of them. It was a liungry, thieving lot, and
the first })anful we cooked, went out of sight in the
twinkling of an eye. We were determined to have a
good, square meal at once, when we came into camp, and
this was our first experience, but we changed our tactics.
I did the cooking after this, and Mike and Bill watched
the pan, knife and pistol in hand, and gave out that the
first man, who put his hand into that pan, would go
home minus his fingers. We then enjoyed our meal
and suspended any further cooking operations, until we
got away from them. As previously stated we had
already bargained for the provisions, and we now secured,
in addition to what we had already bought, two gallons
of vinegar for fifty dollars. Our goods consisted of 450
pounds of flour, a very small quantity indeed to winter
on, and the rest was canned goods — meats, vegetables,
fish, etc. I was offered half an ounce a pound for two
of my hams, but declined the offer, as we had enough to
do to get back home without packing gold. It seems
HUNTING FOR GOLD
68
strange now to think of the days, when in travchn^,
Mike and I sometimes used to quarrel ahout who
should carry the gold bag, for although gold was what
we suffered and toiled for, it often became very wearisome
to carry it about, when we were tired and exhausted.
The next thing to be done was to get our stores
packed up to our camp, and I made an arrangement
with ** Cut-Eye" to do the transportation, as he had
plenty of horses and nuiles. He was to have thirty
ounces for delivering them at Cox's Bar, as that was
then the end of nuile possibilities in those quarters, and I
agreed to pay him for all horses or mules that might
die on the road. I believe that those belonsrin'jf to our
company were the only 'forty niners, who remained in
the mountains all winter, as the general thing was to go
down below in the fall and return in the spring.
We had plenty of snow and rain on our trip up to the
Forks, and we had to watch Cut-Eye very closely, as he
was not altogether to be relied upon. When I reHect
upon this trip, I am reminded of many scenes that
happened, characteristic of the happy-go-lucky nature,
of which most miners were possessed. I can see the
boys yet scraping away the snow to make room along-
side of some log that might be used as a table. Then
the cards would be produced, the pipes lighted and the
brandy bottle passed around, and in the midst of the
wilds men would enjoy themselves with a most enviable
disregard for the next difficulty that might arise. And
as these scenes recur to me I am put in mind of the
beautiful lines that begin with the question:
"AVhere is now tbe merry party —
I remember long ago?"
At Goodyear's Spring we halted. Bill was behind
bringing a hundred weight of flour on a h'nj; horse belongf-
C4
HUNTING KOR GOLD
1 .1 h
ill
11 1
M4
in<jj to ** Cut-Eye, " The sack had slipped forward and
was right on tlie nock of the poor animal, which was
tiius considerably impeded in its progress and very
nearly done for. When I saw them coming into camp,
1 l)e>ran to think that it was a case, and that I would
have to pay for one dead horse at all events, hut fortune
fnvorod me, for the poor brute picked up again, when re-
lieved )f its load. As soon as we bejj^an descendintj
Goodvp.ar's hill, Mick and Bill went ahead to let the
boys know at the P'orks that we were coming, and it
was indeed the best tidings they could hear. Old ** Cut-
Eye " was doing his utmost all along to string the trip out
as much as possible. He had hoped that some of the
mules would die on the road, so that he might make
more money on the transaction. But with me it was a
case of diamond cut diamond. I was up to his tricks
and foresaw that the half starved mules could not last
long. So I pressed on, and we arrived at Cox's Bar
without losing any of them. I then paid Foster and
advised him to hurry back, as the weather was getting
dirty, and there was absolutely nothing for the mules to
eat. He stayed with us that night however, and the
next morning returned, some of the boys helping him to
get over the hill. Before they left him four of the
mules gave out, and he declared that the Major had got
the start of him this time, but he would get even yet.
It was no easy matter to carry our stores on our
shoulders from Cox's bar to the Forks, but we persevered,
until we had it all in camp. The beef was stowed away
in a snowdrift, and when packed in this manner and
kept from the air, it will keep good for two or three
months. We happened to get quite an addition to our
supply in a somewhat singular manner. We met a party
that had lost an ox. It had strayed from them, and
i ■
HUNTINCJ FOR GOLD
65
they told us tliat if wo coulil find it, we rnis^dit keep it.
After a diliurent search, John Potter found tlie animal
perched on the ledge of a rock above Cox's Bar on the
south side of the river. How it got there is to this day
inexplicable to me, but there it stood, unable to turn or
get down, starving in the solitude, looking down upon
the river in a sort of mute despair and beyond the reach
of the lowing of its fellows. When we climbed up
towards it, it turned its big sad eyes upon us with an ex-
pression, as if it hoped for relief, even from the race
that bowed its head under the yoke and lashed its back,
when its strength failed. It seemed a cruel thing to do,
but there was no alternative, so we shot the poor brute,
and it fell over the precipice, and as it rolled down the
rocks, everyone turned his head away with a shudder.
Let it not appear to the reader that such tenderheart-
edness on the part of rough miners is improbable. In-
deed, everybody who has lived in the wilds is well aware
that even when a little squirrel ventures up to the tent
and shows signs of confidence, no one will hurt it and it
soon becomes a pet.
After we had done all the hard work, the snow ceased
and we got a spell of pleasant weather. Just then some
of our boys brought another mule load of provisions from
Nye's Crossing and we were now prepared to meet the
winter.
Meanwhile the building of our cabin had advanced,
and when our provisions had been stored, we all lent a
hand to finish it. The roof was covered with shingles,
which were tied on with rawhide. The structure was
crude as is all early backwood architecture, but it promised
to answer its purpose well. It was strong, warm and
watertight and would withstand the winter's storms. It
became indeed well known to many, and there may be
GG
HUNTING FOR GOLD
some, who read this, who will still remember the day
when they were first welcomed in that eahin. It was
moreover the first of its kind built at the Forks, and
thus it virtually became the foundation of Downieville.
Since then I have dwelt in many houses, far more
richly furnished in every respect, with modern conven-
iences and the latest improvements, but I nmst ([uestion
whether I have been more comfortable in any of them,
than I was in the cabin at the Forks. We were follow-
ed by Jack Smith and Gorman, afterwards came Kelly
and Berry and several others, while Sam Woods, Jim
Kearns and Murray settled on Jersey Flat.
It was on the 10th of December, 1840, that we moved
into our new quarters, and then came Christmas. We
were determined to make the best of the festive season,
even though we were in the midst of the wilds, far
away from friends and relations. Our greatest trouble
was, that W'e had but one bottle of brandy in camp, and
it took us some time before we could decide whether we
would drink it' on Christmas or New Yeurs day. The
discussion, pro and con, was very animated and resulted
in the drawin<)f of the cork on Christmas morninor. It
was quite early, when this important event took place,
and we made punch withfne liquor, using hot water and
nutmeg. We drank to absent friends, to wives and
sweethearts and to the great American Nation. Grad-
ually as the sun rose higher in the heavens and the
brandy got lower in the bottle, we became n\ore enthu-
siastic. I had a small representation of the stars and
stripes in my possession, and we determined that on this
day it should adorn our house. So I climbed upon the
roof with the flag in one hand, a pistol in the other. I
made a short speech, waved the flag and fired a few
shots and finished up by giving three cheers for the
o
c
W
W
Trwr '::ri;i.";i'iM; ,i«iifrr-«T; ^cm
■'l-vlil
08
HUNTING FOR (iOLD
(.1 jib*
Aiiicrican Constitution. Then I fixed the fla<r on the
gable point, and we all shouted for joy when we saw it
unfurled to the breeze for the first time in the fastnesses
of the Sierras.
I cannot conclude this chapter without drawing
attention to the magnificent scenery that surrounded us.
Summer and winter, the grandeur of nature in the
Sierras is so wonderful, that it becomes sublime. The
towering mountains, the snow c)ad peaks, the lakes, the
mountain streams and the variety of vegetation — all
blend harmoniously and form pictures, which my pen is
too feeble to describe. In the midst of such surround-
ings we laid the foundation of a community, which pass-
ed through all the weird phases of border life, into the
more settled condition of advanced civilization.
The following pages wnll contain many strange tales
of happenings in that community, adventures of men,
and sometimes of women. They will relate the dis-
appointments they suffered or the triumphs they achieved;
show how confusion brought about self-made laws, if not
always absolute justice, and explain to some extent the
conditions that caused many men to remain poor, who
might to-day have been worth millions.
Ilit
i
CHAPTER VII.
Life in the Cabin — The Bill of Fare — A Prospecting Fever — •
The Dangers of Traveling — Arrival of Mrs. James Galloway
— A Poor Gin Mill — Jack Smith and His Jokes — Up a Tree
After Gold — Expensive Rations — William Slater — A Rush of
Miners — Taking up Claims — The Necessity for Laws —
As I HOW proceed with my narrative, I will endeavor
as far as possible to bring the incidents and occurrences
out in the order in which they happened. The rei^ion
I had adopted as my home, remained so for over eioht
years, and although 1 traveled about a good deal, I still
made the Forks my headquarters. During that period
I met with many vicissitudes, and many strange scenes
were enacted, and such of them will l)e related, as will
give the reader an adequate idea of life in the CrJit'oria
mines in the early days.
After we had done justice to Christmas, we went
prospecting in different directions and met with very
good success. Just then a Mr. Lord, who was camped
on Jersey Flat, came over to see us. fle made a loiiix
face, spoke of his hard luck, said he had a family back
in the States, and that he was anxious to return. Ho
wanted to make a small raise and would pay anything
to anybody, who would put him on to a good claim. I
took pity on the man and gave him part of my claim,
and he soon proved himself a mean, ungrateful wretch.
He at once set to work with his partner and made from
one to two hundred dollars a day, taking out as much
as $1460 worth in one day, while I had to be satisfied
est
wi
70
HUNTING FOR GOLD
Hit
1 ■,
M
11
I >
with a few ounces. As soon as he found out that his
end of the claim was so much better than mine, he be-
came very reserved and silent, and even went so far as
to draw a dividing line with stakes, so as to separate
his portion from the Major's. I had many experiences
of such inirratitude but learned to understand that this
is nothing more than might be expected; for nature, in
making up, from motives of economy, sometimes uses
the odds and ends and sends the poorer work into the
world, thus making her more creditable productions
appear to greater advantage.
We did not expect to be able to get any more pro-
visions up till about the month of May, and we made
our bill of fare accordingly. One man always stayed in
camp to look after it and do the cooking, while the
others were at work. Our greatest scarcity was flour,
and so it was only used once a day. The dough being
made, it was divided into six equal parts and put into
the oven, and each man knew exactly what to expect.
Our every day dinner consisted of beans and rice, but on
Sundays, we generally had something extra. At this
time I was working by myself and makmg out very well.
I seldom took out less than a pound a day, and it
happened several times that I was rewarded with a find
of from twenty to thirty ounces. Potter and I after-
wards worked together, and on rainy days, when we did
not care about going very far away to work, we would
work at intervals on the site where now stands Cray-
oroft's mill, and often make three or four ounces in a
few hours. Indeed, these were the palmy days of gold
dio-ofinof, when one for obvious reason saved all he found.
We dried our gold in a shovel and weighed it in a pair
of scales, big enough to w^eigh "grub" in, using lead
weights. But if our weights were not. quite exact, what
ll
HUNTING FOR GOLD
71
of it! We had plenty of gold, and a few ounces, more
or less was neither here nor there.
Some time during February, Wood and his partners
sold us a quantity of provisions which had been left at
Negro Tent, then known as Hollow Log, and on the
25th of February, 1850, we started out to bring them
in. On this trip we fell in with "Cut-Eye" Foster, and
another man, who were the first to come up to the
mountains that spring
It may seem strange that men who were doing as
well as we were, should not feel settled. There we were,
making plenty of gold, and yet we wanted to go some-
where else, where we could make more, and get ahead
of the many miners the approaching spring would bring
u[) that way, and when we learned that a great many
men were at that time at Sleisjhville, waitinij for a favor-
able opportunity to get to the Forks, we made up our
minds that it was time for us to look for richer fields,
lest we should be elbowed out of fairer chance in the
general scramble of the spring rush.
Potter went up to Twist's Flat, as it is now called, and
in prospecting struck a very rich patch opposite Negro
Point. On his return we talked matters over, and he
advised that we go up at once, but I had that day taken
thirty ounces out during his absence, and this fact part-
ly unsettled us. The following day Potter returned and
took out thirty-two ounces, and this two ounces over
and above what I had taken out, decided us in favor of
going. But there were other circumstances to take in-
to consideration. It would have been easy enough for
us to leave the Forks with our blankets, but the trans-
portation of our gold would cause more trouble. We
soon came to the conclusion that if we attempted to
take the gold with us, we should certainly be killed or
72
HUNTING FOR (iOLD
at least robbed on the road, and as we could not leave it
behind, we had no alternative but to stay where we
were, which we deternihied to do.
Jack Smith and two or three others went prospectinu;',
They a built a brush shanty somewhere about the
head of Kanaka Creek, which was then called Indian
Creek, and there were many who afterwards thought
that Jim Crow and his Kanakas had wintered there. I
had tried to take up a claim on the North Fork, but a
dispute arisiiii^ about it, I went back to the old place on
the South Fork.
My narrative is now taking me into the month of
March in the year 1850. But, before proceeding any
further, I must mention one of the most memorable events
that took place in the solitudes of the Sierras — the ar-
rival there of the first white woman. It was just about
the first of March, 1850, that Mr. James Galloway and
his most estimable wife arrived at the Forks. F(;r a
woman to brave the difficulties, not to say dangers, of
traveling up the mountains in those days, was enough
to arouse the admiration of us all, and the arrival in our
midst, of ]\[rs. Galloway, was hailed with much enthu-
siasm.
Cut-eye Foster had arrived at Cox's Bar with provis-
ions and liquors, and later opened a grocery and grog-
gery on the hillside above our cabin. Jack Smith came
with him from Goodvear's Hill, and brought with him a
five-gallon keg of gin, packing it on his back all the way
from Sleighville. It seems that before they started from
this latter place, a good many drams leaked out of the
keg, and Jack and Foster did not spare it on the road,
but notwithstanding this fact they succeeded in bring-
ing the keg full into camp The process by which this
was a.chieved, remaineu a secret between J-ack and Fos-
%
rim:'
m
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74
HUNTING FOR GOLD
,.n
ter, and was no doubt due to the latter's inuj'enuity. Fos-
ter was neither sentimental nor sensitive, in any sense
of the word, and he never allowed conscience to prick
him. When he opened his store at the Forks, he sold
a quantity of gin to the men. They did not say nmch,
but they doubted that it was the real article, they paid
so dearly for, and people who came up from Sleighville,
declared that there the liquor would certainly not have
passed for gin. Jack had a hard time of it bringing the
precious fluid, and spent one night seated at the roots
of a tree, holding on to the keg all the time, with only
a blanket over him, and no other fire than that con-
tained in the liquor. However, when he arrived at the
Forks, he found it impossible to keep the keg filled as
fast as it was drawn, and the sfin soon gave out.
The same Jack Smith was a character, and repeatedly
got himself or others into some ludicrous })osition. I
remember one time, when he was working below the
Bluebanks, that I went across to see him I found
him engaged in a soliloquy, in which he poured particu-
larly strong language upon all Missourians, and Pike
County HOMBRES in particular. He was at the time
panning dirt on a claim above his own, and at first he
refused to tell me what all his trouble was about. At
last it came out. He had taken up this claim for the
purpose of selling out to the first "greenhorn" who
might chance to come along, and to make it sell well, he
had put two or three ounces in the hole, all ready for
prospecting.
In a little while a Pike Connty hombre came along
with pick and pan, looking for a claim, and Jack put
him onto the place, saying he was willing to sell. The
stranger set tr work, but instead of starting at the bot-
tom he pulled down the sides, thus filling up the hole,
HUNTING FOR GOLD
75
and completely burying Jack's gold, and as he could
scarcely raise the color, he left without buying. And
there was Jack minus his sale, and left to find his gold
for the second time, which the Missourian had failed to
find. No wonder he was mad.
Strange to say, that very claim proved afterwards to
be one of the richest at the Forks, and I have known
Jack to take out as much as six pounds in one day from
it. It was one of the crevicing claims that I have spoken
of, which we used to work on wet days, and it was a
common thing among as to trade our claims for a
piece of tobacco, or other trifiing exchange, if we had
not had a successful day. In this manner Jack and I
had several times traded this same jlaim backward and
forward, but he was the one who owned it, when it
began to pan out well.
Another story about Jack comes to my mind, as I
write this, which shows that the joke he wished to
perpetrate, did not always turn upon himself and he was
full of practical jokes. It was altogether an age of
tricks and trickery. Men had little to think about, out-
side the routine of their every day vocation, and the
stories brought from home or travels, would become
stale. So the miners entertained themselves and their
friends at the expense of strangers or oftentimes of
their own companions. It was a common thing for
gold-seekers to keep in their pockets, several slugs of
geld, varying in value. They were lumps worth, some-
times, as much as forty or fifty dollars, and often more.
Jack was sitting under a tree, one day, wondering where
he would try his luck next. In his pocket were the
regulation slugs — four or five of them — and they were
beauties. As his glance wandered across the open
glade before him, he saw a man coming along, evident-
76
HUNTING FOR GOLD
II
ly a green honi in search of gold, and an idea struck
Jack to have some fun at the prospector's expense. He
pretended to be digging in the bark of tlie tree with liis
kiife, and as the stranger came up to him, lie a})parent-
ly took a lump of gold out and put it in his pocket. The
stranger halted, put down his blankets, and was about
to use his own knife on the tree, when Jack stopjied
him. "No you don't I" said Jack, "This is my tree.
There is one over there tiiat looks pret , good, you may
try that." The stranger took his k: .nd went for
the other tree, while Jack protendea to find another
lump. "Any luck ?" queried Jack, after awhile.
"Can't raise the color," said the stransj['er.
"Hello I" shouted Jack, "one more. That makes
three," and he held three big lum})s out in his hand.
"That's queer," said the other, plunging his knife deep
into {\\e touo'li bark of the tree, and makin<j^ a loni^i' •''lit
as he drew it out with a twist, "It's mighty queer that
there shouldn't be anv here I"
"Maybe you are too near the ground," suggested Jack,
"some of them are 'top-reefers' as we call them here;
try about twenty feet higher up. Whew ! here's an-
other 1"
The stransrer beijan to think that it was time he also
found something, and so, without any further ado, he
began to climb up.
"How's this ?" he shouted.
"Higher up, I think," suggested Jack.
"Here ?" from the stranger.
"A little higher I" yelled Jack, in delight, not even
being able to see the man, by this time. "Up as far as
that fork above you, and I think you will strike it."
The stranger made a desperate effort, reached the fork
and dug into the bark for gold. By this time Jack
11
II
HUNTING FOR GOLD
77
could no longer restraiu his merriment, and bursting in-
to a roar of laughter that raised the echo of the woods,
he hurried to the camp to tell his adventure. But up
in the top of the tree sat the gold-seeker, prospecting
in the bark and wondering what had taken that crazy
man below. Such practical joking formed one of the
features, characteristic of mining life in those days.
Generally the jokes were taken in good part, and, when
opportunity allowed, practiced on somebody else.
"Cut-eye" Foster made a success at store-keeping,
but his prices were absolutely ruinous to his customers.
fle charged three dollars per pound for potatoes and
butter, two dollars for Hour, and so on in proportion,
making everybody recognize that, if life was worth liv-
ing, we certainly had to pay dearly to sustain it. Fos-
ter got a man to attend his store by the name of William
Slater, who afterwards proved to be an out-and-out
swindler, preying on the confidence of his fellow men.
As a business man Slater could not be surpassed. When
a customer came into the store with money in his pock-
et and wanted four pounds of potatoes, Slater would in-
variably say : "You might as well take five pounds, for
I have no change." But if another came in and asked
for the same quantity with a request to have it booked,
he would say in his suavest manner : "Would two
pounds do you to-day ? You know I am nearly run out
of potatoes and want all to have an equal show." No
wonder "Cut-Eye" made money, with such a commer-
cial genius in his employ.
But later he took sick. His tent aflbrded but a poor
shelter, and he was really very low. He sent for me
to come over and see him, and when I realized the pre-
carious condition in which he was, I had him moved
over to my cabin, gave h'm my bunk and slept on the
1 f
l,iL.,
i
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78
HUNTING FOR GOLD
i!
floor. My partner poked fun at iiie, and said I was too
tenderhearted, but 1 felt that it would have been in-
human to leave him where he was, and I ])ut up with
it all. I merely mention this matter in order to show
Slater off in bold relief later on, when he distinu^uished
himself in a somewhat unexpected manner. At all events
we nursed him and pulled him through his sickness, and
when he began to recover he made himself quite popular
with our company. There was some talk about going
prospecting, and Slater heard us discuss the chances of
sending our gold down below. He the' gave us the
startling information that to anybody, who knew his
way about, it was perfectly easy to get as nmcli as
twenty-two dollars per ounce. This very much excited
the boys, who had never dreampt of any more than six-
teen dollars, and from that day Slater was looked upon
with nmch admiration by the whole crowd, who thought
that he was inside the ring and knew the ropes and hovv^
to pull them.
The miners now began to come up to the mountains.
They came in flocks, so to speak, like migrating birds,
that only wanted to stay for a season and then return
to the home-nest, to feather and fix it. Our cabin
was a happy one, and no one was ever turned away, who
asked for shelter or a meal. When strangers came in
so thick that space began to get scarce, we would crawl
into our bunks so as to allow them room enough to get
in and warm themselves and get their clothes dried,
before proceeding any further. Many of them, more
especially married men, would state that they merely
wanted to accumulate two or three thousand dollars,
and then they would go back home. Such talk generally
elicited a smile on our part, and we told them that
five or six thousand dollars would not satisfy them, and
HUNTING FOR GOLD
79
that wlion tliey had accmnulatod that niucli, they would
think less about ^oiiiij^ hoiiie than they did before.
Those who were camped down the river about Cox's
and Goodycar's Bar beujan stakinu^ ofl' claims all the way
up to the Forks. When they got that far, they would
bei^an to explore the North and South Forks, and think-
int^ that they had foi d something better still, they
would drive in more staKcs, until they got clear out of
sight. Then, when they returned to their first claims,
they would find that these had been occupied by other
parties, and thus innumerable disputes would arise.
This state of affair was an unmistakable sign that the
hour had arrived when it became necessary to establish
certain laws by which to regulate operations in these
parts, and thus it was, that out of chaos and confusion
grew the first code that guided the dwellers at the
Forks, and which it proved very hard to upset or alter,
when later on attempts were made to do so.
PI
m
CHAPTER YUl.
Adoptinf^ a Code — Remarkable ObKcrvations — The Oh-be-joyful
— Chaugiiif,'- a Name — A Bit of Early History — Samuel Laug-
tou — A Ba<;(jf (iold — Eti<|uette in the Bar-room — Corn Meal
Fixin<,'H — Heading the First Newspaper — I>ieeting Jim Crow
— Phantom Treasures.
For tlio purpose of settling tlie matter of laws, a meet-
ins^ was called at Mr, Kelly's cabin, a series of resolu-
tions was passed, establisliin<4 a code which was after-
wards adhered to, and things went smoothly until the
advent of the legal fraternity. It would liave been bet-
ter by far, tor the miners, if the lawyers had never
reached the gold-iiiilds of the Yubas. They came there
for the sake of "filthy lucre," and too easily they wrung
from the nuners what they had made through sheer
hard work. In tlu; following is })resented an exact copy
of the minutes of the meeting referred to, with Major
Briggs in the Chair, and C A. Russell acting as Secre-
tary.
Forks of the Yuba, March 3d, 1850.
"Met, accorduig to agreement, at Mr. Kelly's cabin.
Meeting was organized by the a}){)ointment of Major
Briggs, as Chairman, and C. A, Russell, as Secretary.
Messrs. T. Sexton, N. Kelly and H. A. Russell, com-
mittee.
Moved and seconded that the report of the commit-
tee be accepted.
Resolved, First. — That ten yards be the amount of
each claim, extending to the middle of the river. go
wm
HUNTING 1Y)R GOLD
81
Second. — That vavh claim he staked, and a tool, or
tools left upon it.
Third. — That five days he allowed to prepare and oc-
cupy each claim.
Fourth. — That noni; l)ut native and naturalized citi-
zens of the United States shall be allowed to hold
claims.
Fifth. — That the word "native;" shall not include the
Indians of this country.
Sixth — That companies dammini; the river, shall
hold, each individual, a claim, and have a ri<;ht to the
bed of the river (below low-water mark) as far as it lies
dry.
Seventh. — That claims be in conjunction with their
dams.
Eighth. — That all matters of dispute be settled by
referees.
Ninth. — That in case of trial for crime of any kind,
there shall be ten present, besides the jury and wit-
nesses.
Tenth. — That sea-faring men in possession of Ameri-
can protection, shall be allowed claims.
Eleventh. — That whoever shall not be able to show
his papers, shall have a fair trial.
Twelfth. — That this code of laws be in force on and
after the fourth of March.
Thirteenih. — Th^t the upper Yuba District consist of
Goodyear's Bar and all above.
Moved that this meeting adjourn to the first Sunday
of next month.
MAJOR BRIGGS, President.
C. A. Russell, Secretary.
O. S. Sexton,
N. Kelly, \ Committee.
II. A. Russell,
82
HUNTINCr FOR COLD
I i
I made a very reiiiarkablc observation, \vlii(;li for
sonic time [)uzzle(l my imaniiiatioii and to tliis day re-
mains unexplained. 1 was working a claim opposite
(Jrayeroft's sawmill, and it was (juite a common occur-
n^nce to find heavy gold liiij^h u[)on the baidi ainonui'st
loose, black dirt, or sticks and leaves. I saw the same;
thing afterwards below Breyfogle Flat, where 1 would
find loose gold as far as thirty feet above the river.
Without asserting that gold will float, I am at a loss to
account for its })resence in these j)laces, if it liad not
been carried there by the watcir when the river was
swolen. It was not heavy gold, but found in large,
thin scales, and I saw one ))iec(3 tliat measured about
an inch and a half scjuare, weighing half an ou'ice. 1'his
Haky gold would frccpKiiitly average from two to five
dollars to the {)an, whih^ the clay in the same location
would not go on(3 dollar to tin; ()an.
Owing to some severe weather wc; were laying off' for
a sj)ell, and it was decided to celebrate this occasion
with an attack upon the "Oh-be-joyful," and sending
out a general invitation, we opened proceedings. l'"or
some time we ke})t it up pretty well; life took on a
rosy hue; we felt satisfied with ourselves and everybody
else, and we drank our grog in the Sierras with the
same relish that some of us might to-day drink cham-
pagne at Delmonico's. But after awhile it was advisa-
ble to stop the spree. It had to be done efiectually and
with a finishing touch worthy of the occasion, and it was
suggested that we should drink all the li((uor to be had
at the Forks. We sent down to Slater to negotiate for
the purchase of the balance of his grog supply, but he
replied that he would not sell wholesale, as he had only
part of one keg left, but to (oblige as he was willing to
let us have what he could spare. Unawares we were
i
HrN'riN(V FOK CrOIJ)
H'.i
tlie victinis of OIK! of our- friend .Jack's tricks. He had
already bought tlie lot from Slater, had it bottled, and
had hidden the bottles in the snow behind the cal)in.
By and by the boys began to get dry, and one of them
suggested that he would pay an ounce for a bottle, and
Jack said he would go for it. On his return he re-
marked that it would be possible to get another l)ottle
or two for the same price, after which he was (juickly
dispatched, and as a matter of course, treated, on his
return, to a drink of the precious liquid. In this man-
ner Jack made quite a good speculation, and for every
time he came into the cal)in with a couple of bottles, he
would expatiate upon the depth of the snow and the nu-
merous difficulties encountered on the way, while as a
matter of fact, he had been only a few yards away from
the cabin, taking the bottles out of the snow.
It was during this spring that the name of the Forks
was changed to that ot "Downieville." By this time
people had begun to accumulate and to build small Ikjus-
es, cabins or shanties, and it became evident that the
foundation of a town was being laid. Men began to or-
ganize matters ; to build only in certain positions, and
to leave space for future streets, which, however, so far
had not been established. A man called Vineyard came
up from Goodyear's Bar and staked off' a lot above Cray-
croft's place and just in front of some land belonging to
James Galloway. He left only seventeen feet for the
width of the street, and this so much annoyed the jieo-
ple in the neighborhood, that they called a meeting, and
it was finally decided that no street should be less than
twenty-six feet wide. Mr. Galloway was in the chair,
and there was quite a lengthy discussion as to the width
to be decided upon. When it was all settled, Mr. Gal-
loway took the floor and made a s[)eech. He reminded
!;
II!
Tr
84
HUNTING FOR GOLD
t ;
those present that tliey had been arjj^uin^*- about the
width of the streets, and yet they had not even named
the town they were about to found. He then moved
that it be called "Downieville," after Major Downie.
Vineyard, who was annoyed at his defeat in regard to
the width of the streets, objected. He proposed to call
the place "Foster," but u[»on a vote being taken, he was
the only one who opposed the name of '* Downieville,"
which was then adopted with acclamation. 1 had just
returned from a trip down the river, and happened to en-
ter the room as they were all shouting themselves
hoarse for ''Downieville," and my appearance lent new
impetus to the enthusiasm, which culminated when I
called all hands out to drink to the success of the new
town.
However, for S(nne time after-, the place continued to
be called the " Forks," and it was not until Mr. (gallo-
way was made Justice of the Peace, and dated his writs
from "Downieville," that the little town became official-
ly known by that name. The tirst territorial election
under the constitution, outside the cities, took place on
the Istof June, 1850. Galloway and Vineyard were
l)oth running for the Justiceship, and as Downieville
was entitled to two Justices, they were both elected.
They had made an agreement that the one who received
the most votes, should qualify. It proved a very close race
for the office. Galloway received 496 votes, and quali-
fied, his opponent receiving 492. The Justice's jurisdic-
tion extended all over the present county of Sierra, and
took in some outside territory, besioes, and the nearest
Court to this, was at Foster's Bar. During the first
year Mr. Galloway tried three hundred and twenty-five
cases, ranging in cost from half an ounce to six ounces,
and embracinof crimes and ofi'enses of all kinds.
HUNTIN(i FOR GOLD
85
Frank Cook and John Capion wore Constables at the
same time. Cook at'tc^'waids joined the police force iji
Marysville, and later became Chief ot Police there.
But I must go back a little in my account. One of
the results of our gradual development was the appear-
ance, at our camps, of expressmen, or mail-carriers as
they should more properly have been called. These
men speculated upon our isolation by bringing us mail
from Sacramento at such prices as they might contract
for with the miners, individually. In most cases the
matter never went beyond a "proposition," and the
advancement of certain money to men who had no inten-
tion of returning. It was, doubtless, the memory of
this dishonesty that afterwords caused many to distrust
a most worthy man, who came up to fulfill the obliga-
tions for which he had contracted. This man was Mr.
Samuel Langton, and the accompanying picture gives a
life-like representation of him and myself as we appeared
in those days. I am represented as showing him some
gold, on the occasion, and he as bending forward to
examine it. Many a time have we sat outside that cabin,
giving one another an account of happenings which had
taken place since our last meeting. And to few men do
the miners of the early days on the Yuba, owe a greater
debt of gratitude, than to Sam. While the linlls of
Conirrcss resounded with lon«jc-winded speeches about
the admission of (Jahfornia to the Union; while we
were being victimized by crafty adventurers, Sam was
climbing tlu' hills with his little budget of letters, to
make the miner, in his l>rush shanty, glad with news
from home. Summer and winter he toiled away, ever
faithful to the discharge of his self-assumed duties. In
the scorching sun, across swolen rivers, or through
mighty snowdrifts, Sam Langton made his way to our
Mm
m
m
u$\
u
u
<
U
HUNTING FOR GOLD
87
camps, bringinj:^ tidings and messages that were looked
for with im[)atieiK'e.
It liad become a matter of ambition with a great many
to act as expressmen, and among those who tliought
themselves particularly fitted for the position, was
William Slater He gave out, all along, that he was
going to outshine the rest, and when he once got started
in business, he certainly succeeded in doing so, in one
sense, Mr. Lano-ton became the agent for the g^reat
Express firm of Adams & Co., and opened an office at
Downieville, but it took him quite a while to establish
the desired confidence in the concern. I remember, on
one occasion, meeting a miner in his office, who was
asking innumerable questions as to the mode of sending
money home. Sam explained the whole matter to him,
showed him a draft on Adams & Co., which he would
receive on depositing the gold, but the miner hesitated
to let his dust go. He could, evidently, not understand
that such a flimsy -looking paper could be good security
for solid gold. He objected on the ground that the
draft looked like "shinplaster," and that the bank might
"bust up." He finally left with his gold. When he
got outside, he called the boys up to have a drink, then
he dived into the chances of the monte bank, and by
night the pile was gone, which might have rewarded
him for honest toil, and brought relief and joy to those
left at home. I have heard manv useless regrets ex-
pressed by the miserable victims of the gambling-table,
who had staked their money on the wrong card, instead
of lea vin or it in Sams stron<x-box. I never trambled,
myself, but nevertheless, truth compells me to say that
I also have suftered, though somewhat differently, for
refusing the services of an honest and worthy man
During the spring flour went down in price, at the
til
it
.1 'r\\
1
Mi
88
HUNTING FOR GOLD
i w '
Forks*, and I boui^lit one thousand pounds and had it ta-
ken to my camp on the South Fork. I paid a dollar a
pound for it, and while it lasted, it was common proper-
ty, and whosoever wanted a sack was welcome to it.
On the day when it arrived, and after paying the packer,
and on my way home, I was overtaken by a stranger-,
who held a huiX of if old in his hand. He insisted that I
lost it while pavnig the packer. I knew he was mista-
ken, and told him so, but he continued tt) iniiist until at
last I stuck it in my belt, until I should find an owner.
The bag was a heavy one, containing some five or six
pounds, but I thought I knew who had lost it, and kept
it by me. A few days after some of us went as far as
the store kept by Messrs. Wagoner k Chase, who at the
time had a keg of brandy going. Several people came
in, and among them was my man, and to him I restored
his lost property Then came the ([uestion of reward.
It was not an individual matter, by any means ; it mere-
ly amounted to spending one ounce out of six pounds,
to treat all hands, so as to celebrate the recovery of the
lost irold in the orthodox manner. At that time, and
with those surroundings, a "treat" meant the expendi-
ture of one ounce, or sixteen dollars, and he was, indeed,
looked upon as a very mean man who would refuse to
follow the rule. But it so happened that the stranger,
belonged to this penurious class, which, it nmst be ad-
mitted, was exceptionally rare in the diggings. He pos-
itively refused to spend more than half an ounce on the
celebration, and as we had a reputation to sustain, we
advised him accordingly. We told him that the kind of
company to which we belonged could not be treated in
this manner, — his offer was an insult to us, and he could
not do better than quit the premises in double-quick
time, which he did. In fact, no man ever went out of
HUNTING FOR GOLD
89
Wagoner Si Chase's store more quickly tlian did tliis
fellow. This will show how the ideas of etiquette, of
usage and established custom, force tliemselves upon
all conunuities, even at early stages, and how aristocrat-
ic or })lebeian distinctions find a place there. I may re-
mark here, that the rule of spending one ounce on a
treat, was so strictly adliered to that, when there hap-
pened to be fewer men in the company than could get
away with the liquor, one of them would go outside and
drum up assistance from the passers-by, or neighbors.
One of these, who came up to engage in store-keep-
ing during that spring, was a Mr. McGhee. In addi-
tion to the usual stock of provisions and liquors, Mac
also brought a quantity of corn meal, and as this was
somethin<jf we had not known for many months, it was
appreciated. McGhee was a very good fellow, and he
invited us to come over to his store and see him. He
was located about where the St. Charles hotel now
stands, and he proved himself a most excellent host.
He treated us to a drink which he called "corn-meal-
fixinfjs," and I think he was the inventor of it. It con-
sisted of about a lialf a pint of brandy and water with a
little corn meal stirred up in it, and when the cup was
passed around, the unanimous verdict was that it was a
most excellent drink. He had to go some distance for
water, aud not infrequently, when he left us for that
purpose, we would help ourselves to the brandy, and
drinkincj it without either corn meal or water, and
agreed that, barring the water, it made just as good
a drink when partaken of neat.
At one time during this spring, I was taking it easy
for a few days. I had received a number of books and
papers and spent all my time in perusing them Some
men came up to my cabin and told me that the Kanakas
I
h
•III 1
90
HUNTIXO FOR GOLD
r <
had struck it ricli at the head of Indian Creek, and
uri^ed me to come with them. I nmst a(hnit tliat I was
not eager to go. My newsi)apers, which by thr way
were the first ever riiad at tiie Forks, engrossed all my
attention, and I was somcswhat doubtful as to the truth
of the report. However, I ultimately consented to go
with them, and j)acking up a few New York Heralds
and provisions for three or four days, I got ready to
start. Of course it would not do to leave 'till after dark,
for fear of otliers following us. There were about a
dozen of us, and we presented an appearance very much
like a number of jail-breakers, as we made our way in the
dark, "coonini; the log," and creepiuij^ throuijh the brush
as silently as possible. We supj)osed, for sometime, that
we were the only ones in the secret, and were therefore
surprised, when, after beginning to climb the hill on the
other side of Breyfoyle Flat, we overtook a party of five,
who were nud-cin*; for tli(^ mvsterious dio-oinirs, Thev
were waitin<»' for one of their number, who had irone back
to fetch a few bottles so as to get up sufficient steam for
the ascent. We pushed on, and just as day was begin-
ning to peep over the hills, we came u{)on another party,
bouml for the same diggings. They were melting snow
for breakfast and we certainly thought that they wonld
be the last competitors, we should fall in with on the
road, but just as we came to the summit of the hill, we
overtook another party, traveling for dear life to get in
first.
At last we arrived at the place of our destination, and
we all made for the ravine wliere the gold was said to
be. But great was my surprise, when on my way to
that place, I met Jim Crow. He was at the head of the
Kanakas and held full sway over them. The place had
already been named Crow City, and the canyon is to this
HrNTIN'C. FOR OOLD
01
day known as Jim Crow Canyon. The wliolc afl'air was
well not up, and tli.ey had already a very perfect organi-
zation, with laws and reyulations to (»'uid(3 them, and
over forty white men had [)ledged themselves to extend
to the Kanakas the some riu^hts that they enjoyed.
In regard to Jim Crow, he seemed even more sur-
prised than I, at our meeting, and told me a pack of lies
to exf)lain his singular conduct in leaving us in the lurch
last fall, but the fact remained that he really intended
to make his way back to our old camp, expecting to find
us all starved to death and probably our gold left, ready
to be taken away; at all events, a rich field to work in.
I never (jould understand how Jim raised money for the
outfit he was bossing on this occasion, after having spent
all he took away from our camp, but it is possible tliat
the "Blue Tent" people could tell a tale in tliis respect.
The di<j:ginj/s here did not bv far answer to the great
anticipations entertained of them. I for my own part
took it easy. I read my papers, and at once saw through
the game, and made up my mind not to excite myself
We camped against a huge log, the slope being so steep
that this was the only way in which we could obtain any
comfort, and when I had finished reading my papers
I returned to my own camp.
Many of those who had come there, enticed by the
rumors of great riches, were loth to leave. They had
an idea that the Kanakas were only waiting for the white
pet)ple to vacate, and then they would plunge into the
very richest places. Altogether there prevailed, at
that time, a singular superstition in regard to black or
colored men. They were looked upon as "mascots,"
and it was a common belief that they had luck in seek
ing for gold. While in their company, Dutch, English,
French, or any other nationality, alike felt sure of the
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92
HUNTING FOR GOLD
tu
**(leacl wood." But my experience with Jim Crow was
such as to shake my faith in the race, and I made my
way back, perfectly satisfied to leave them behind.
OFF TO THE DIUUINyS.
CHAPTER IX.
An Unfortunate Family — A Company of Sailors — After "Old
Dowuie" — Single Men and Married Men — William Slater's
Exit — A Note Due Over Forty Years — Law and Lawyers —
"Uncle Jimmie" — A Discourse About Drinking — My Claim
was (rone — The Eighth Commandment.
I cannot proceed without saying a few more words
about Sam Langton and his family. They came from
Washington City and met with a fate in CaHfornia which
was absolutely tragic. They were rich and influential
at one time, but the heavy failure of the Adams Express
Company practically ruined them financially, and tlie
family is now almost extinct. Sam Langton was killed
in Virginia City by a fall from his carriage; a younger
brother died in poverty in San Francisco some years
ago; and another brother — Tom Langton — was sent to
the insane asylum at Stockton, but has since so far re-
covered as to hold, at present, an official position at that
institution. One of the sisters pined to death grieving
for the loss of her husband, a noted Mountain express
rider, who lost his life in the execution of his duty; and
the widow and daughter of Sam Langton, perished a few
years ago in an avalanche at the Sierra Buttes.
Although I continued to keep my headquarters at,
what I will hereafter call Downieville, I spent the
greater part of my time prospecting in various parts of
the surrounding country. I nmst admit, that as I now
remember, I am surprised at the haste we often exhibi-
ted in leaving claims that paid us well, for strange loca-
93
ii
M '
94
HUNTING FOR GOLD
tions and uncertain chances. It was a common occur-
rence for us to leave claims paying from three to four
ounces per day, or even as much as a pound, and pick-
incf our blankets over the mountains, with the sun beat-
ing on our backs and snow blinding our eyes, in search
of — we hardly knew what ourselves. But there are
circumstances over which men seem to have no control,
cdthough they are created by themselves, and so in those
days the life of the miner was a restless one ; the alluring
hope of greater treasures led him on and on, and in too
many cases he became like the rollins*- stone that lifathers
no moss, Hope too often ajipeared like the will-o-the-
wisp — a mere phantom that led us astray.
My company usually consisted of Scotch or English
sailors. They would come to San Francisco, generally
from Australia, and desert their ships to make for the
mines. When they arrived there, they would, for some
reason, frequently cast their lot with me, and after a
time, the "Major's" company became prettjMvell known.
It seems strange that, although I was a sailor, like
the rest, and at all times moderate in partaking of liquor,
the boys who followed me were nearly always a
hard drinking lot. On Saturday nights we would re-
turn to Downieville to celebrate our success, or try to
forget our disappointments. On such occasions, the
tlowinsjc bowl would not be left on the shelf, and as a
rule, the "boys" would divide their attention between it
and the gambling table, and often spend as nmch as
three or four thousand dollars before Monday morning.
Roving about the country as much as I did, and meet-
ing with a good deal of success at prospecting, I gratlu-
allv became known throuohout the i^^old-fields of the
Yuba. It was no uncommon thing for men to at-
tempt to watch my movements, or even plan some
HUNTING FOR GOLD
95
means of robbing nie of iny wealth, and I have had sev-
eral strange adventures in this way. I was prospecting
at one time with John Bell, and we were cooking our
dinner, when I saw three men comin<jj alons^ in our di-
' or?
reetion. They were covered with dust, and their clothes
had been torn in the thick chapparal through which
AFTER OLD DOWNIE
they had made their way. The perspiration stood in
large beads on their foreheads, and they could hardly
speak for want of breath.
"What's your hurry ?" I inquired.
One of the men threw down his pack, and winked his
i
96
HUNTING FOR COLD
eye as he said in a half whisper : "We are after old
Dovvnie."
"The devil 1" I ejaculated. "What's the matter with
him ?"
The stransrer became more mysterious. At ui^t he
did not wish to speak, but I finally u^ot out of him that
"old Dow nie" had just made his way down the moun-
tain with a mule carrvins: a sack of nold.
I/O »~
"When was he last seen ?'' I asked, greatly amused at
the whole afi'air.
But to this I could get no other reply than a vague
allusion to the "Bald Mountain" and the "Lone Tree,"
which, together with the "Gold Lake," formed parts of
the myth of those regions. They were supposed to be
places where fabulous treasures might be found, but
their various locations were not generally known. When
a miner had struck it rich, and his companions did not
know where he had got it, it was put down as one of
the places referred to. There was nothing very singu-
lar in this, when it is borne in mind that every move
was made with the utmost secrecv, and miners them-
selves, as a rule, refused to speak of their finds. In re-
gard to the men in pursuit of myself, I will simply re-
mark that had their story been true, and they had met
"Old Downie" on a mule carrying a sack of gold, I
have no doubt, judging from their somewhat uncouth
appearance, that they would have forced me to sur-
render all, or part of it, or, at all events, to reveal the
location whence it came.
In selecting my men for prospecting purposes, I al-
ways preferred single men. Benedicts had too often
proved themselves a nuisance to me, and I had no use
for them. They would whine about their wives ; won-
der how their children were getting along ; speculate
HUNTING FOR GOLD
97
upon the possibilities of a speedy return ; and at night,
when we bachelors rolled ourselves in our blankets and
slept the sleep of the just, they would grunt and groan,
and pray and weep, and gaze at the stars, and make
themselves unfit for the work on hand. A pater fnmil
iaa is a noble being in his right sphere, but in the gold
diggings, in nine cases out of ten, he appeared to me
entirely out of his element, and I religiously evaded him
whenever 1 could.
Trade was flourishing at Downieville as the season
advanced. ''Judge" Paxton opened a store on Jersey
Flat, and William Slater was doinii^ a rushino; but^iness
in whisky. He contemplated a trip to Sacramento for
a large supply oi' goods. In our camp we had not for-
gotten Slater's statement in regard to the value of gold-
dust, and we all afjreed that now was the chance to
make money. So we dug up our bags and gave them
to Slater to take down with him. We considered that
it was somewhat difficult to count with twenty-two,
which was the number of dollars promised us per ounce,
and so aojreed to allow the two dollars on each ounce, to
Slater. In addition to this, I made up a bag of speci-
mens, all fine nuggets, weighing over two pounds, and
told him to send it as a present to his wife in the States,
and so we bade Slater ''Farewell" and "God speed."
This was Slater's debut as an express messenger, and
he took with him about ^25,000 worth of gold. We
have never since seen the man we had nursed
through his sickness ; whose store we had patronized ;
and upon whose honesty we had implicitly relied. Sla-
ter never stopped until he reached San Francisco, and
from there he shipped directly for his eastern home.
Sometime after a man came up to the Yuba to try his
luck. He had met Slater on the Isthmus, and had
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been advised by hii.. to go up our way. Slater had spo-
ken kindly of us all, and in particular urged liini to
look u}) the "Major," whom he had described as one of
the best fellows in the world, ready to do all in his power
to assist a stranger. And this splendid recommenda-
tion we got for our hospitality, our confidence and our
gold, and it took us quite a while to persuade the new-
comer that a man who had spoken so warmly of us all,
could have treated us so badly as did Slater.
There were many who thought that "Cut-Eye" Fos-
ter had combined with Slater to rob us of our money,
but I believe, on the contrary, that he was one of Sla-
ter's victims, Foster was not so bad as thev made him
out to be. I have, already, to some extent, dwelt upon
his character. I am well aware that he was not over-
troubled with conscience, and that he did not hesitate
to drive strange stock to his rai.ch, if it chanced to mix
with his own, but such irregularities were not regarded
as serious offenses in those days, and the men who com-
mitted them did not consider themselves thieves, what-
ever the sufferers may have thought. He had a pro-
pensity for borrowing money, and I believe owes more to
his friends than any other man I have known. I have
held his note for over forty years, for a sum which,
with the accumulated interest, would now amount to
something over a million dollars. Some years ago I met
him up north, where he was farming, and he offered me
his ranch and several horses, but I was on my way to
the Idaho diggings, and making a "raise" there, 1 re-
fused his offer. One of Foster's good points was his na-
tive generosity. If A miner in needy circumstances ap-
plied to him, he received what he asked for, and if
he happened to be unable to pay the debt, Foster did
not v/orry him about it. Foster was also very kind
HUNTING FOR GOLD
!)9
toward strangers who were taken srck, and more tlian
once kept men in his camp wlio, without liis assistance,
would have died from hunger, exposure and disease.
Surely, charity should cover a multitude of sins, and with
all his faults, "Cut-Eye" was by no means a bad man.
I have touched upon the advent of the legal talent,
and the influence it had on the comnmnity. As a mat-
ter of course, the lawyers came as t^oon as the election
had given a Justice of the Peace to Downieville, and the
number of suits brought during the first year, will show
that there was no fear of them starvinir. One of the
earliest suits brought was caused by a dispute over a
claim, belonging to "Uncle Jinimie." "Uncle" played
a conspicuous part in the early days of Downieville. He
was a shrewd, sharp business man, who never let an op-
portunity escape, when a gain could be made. He ran
the Gem saloon: and it was a <j:einl He had a monte
table going day and night and treated all strangers who
came in, and he had a very char idea of the persuasive
powers of grog. With him the adage was, "one drink of
brandy makes the whole world akin," and he used it as
a maxim, by which he greatly ])r()fited. Tlie claim in
dispute was located on the upper end of Jersey Flat and
extended into the river to low-water mark. The river
was flumed, and for this reason the line of demarkation
was not very distinctly defined, and on the day of the
trial the jury and witnesses were called upon to closely
examine into the situation. Uncle was up to the occa-
sion. His proverbial liberality came to the front, and
he put up a free bottle at the Gem. Jury, witnesses
and everybody else, took advantage of the opportunity
to get free drink, and by the time the examination was
over, the tramping of feet in the sand, and the efl'ect of
the grog on their visual organs had made it an impossi-
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l)ility to discern the line of so much legal importance, and
the verdict was given in favor of 'Uncle Jimmie" That
niijht there was a bii; time at Downiovillc, anda jj^eneral
"jamhoree" took place. There was nothing mean ahout
the hmdlord of the Gem. He had won the suit, and he
was willing to expros his satisfacti(jn, according to the
rules erf the community. The drawing of the corks
was a thing unknown in those quarters, the necks of
the bottles being simply knocked off, and uncle was an
expert in thnt line.
And what a scene to behold!
"Brandy or Champagnei^" called "Uncle," and the
desired drink was forthcominGr.
"Fall back all you, who have just had a drink and let
the "boys" have a chance."
"Get out on the street somebody, and tell all hands
to come in, Uncle is just going to stand another basket."
Such was the talk, and the liquor flowed in an endless
stream, and men drank till they reeled, and even then
Went on drinking. And vet, there must be something
in drinking, which is sublime, for I find in the ancient
mvthologies that even the Gods of the Greeks and
Norsemen held \u<yh carnival with mead and wine, and
they were not ashamed to let drink master them at
times. And yet both these races were brave, bold and
intelligent, and they have both had a great deal of
healthful influence on the further development of the
world. Be this as it may, the miners of the early days
were a sturdy lot. They indulged in drinking at times, it
is true, but they bore hardships and endured privations
at other times, with a fortitude which made them heroes,
and at the sacrifice of comforts, often of health or even
life, they helped to make the world richer, if not happier.
HUNTING FOR GOLD
101
Naturally a great many lawsuits were brought about
through disputed claims, but the losers never seemed to
take their defeat much to heart. "Let her rip I" was
the usual exclamation when a man was told that he had
lost his claim. The revel went on all the same, and the
man without a claim would soon get another. There
was plenty of gold up and down the Yuba, in tht)se days,
and yet I met men, right in the hey-day of the gold dis-
coveries there, who were making for the American riv-
er, asserting that the gold was all dug up on the Yuba.
I had a lawsuit, myself, at one time, with some
fellows who came from the South Yuba, attempt-
ing to take possession of Downieville by jumping
claims, and they ultimately called a public meeting
for the purpose of introducing new laws. But in this
they failed. Our code had proved entirely satisfactory,
so far, and we did not propose to let these strangers run
our affairs. They then changed their tactics and jumped
all the claims of the "foreiirners," and anionic others,
mine. But I soon vindicated my rights as an American
citizen, notwithstanding the fact that I was born in
Scotland and "proud of the land that gave me birth"
My accusers were fined fifty dollars and costs, but what
ever became of that monev, 1 never could learn, and
suspect that it was sunk in ale. This beverage had been
introduced in Downieville during the summer of fifty.
It came in bottles, and soon became a very popular
drink, and I remember beinij: in court when, durinir the
sitting, several adjournments were had for the purpose of
of indulging in bottled ale. In those days attorneys
could not speak as fluently as they can to-day, without
a draught,and a bottle of ale seemed to have a magic effect
upon them. The Judge, himself, enjoyed the amber
fluid as much as any, and the only reason it was not
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
103
partaken of in the court room, so as to save ^o;n<^ out,
was tlie fact that his Honor ol)je(.'ted to the slops on liis
tahle, and so preferred adjournin*^ court.
The claim I had recovered hy law, I sold shortly
afterwards to a young married man called "Bonney."
His wife lived in the States, and he was anxious to
return as soon as possible, with some kind of a fortune.
As he did not have much money, I sold him the claim
on easy terms. He was to trive me two-thirds of the
proceeds, as they came out, until he had paid for it. I
do not recommend this as a u^ood way of disposing of a
claim, and on the present occasion I certainly became
the loser.
My customer had every reason to be satisfied. For
two or three days he paid my share conscientiously, and
this amount ran over a thousand dollars per day, but
then I had to leave, on a prospecting tour. I was away
for about two weeks, and when I returned the bird had
flown. My eastern friend was making for home with a
pocket full of money, and had disposed of my claim to
somebody else. I lost not only a splendid claim but two
tents that were on it, a supply of cooking utensils, two
gold-scales and a number of other things, which I. had
left there with full confidence in the honesty of th^ man,
to whom I had sold, I made up my mind that hence-
forth I would have no dealings with married men, and
I trust my reader does not blame me.
In these days we had neither locks, bars nor bolts on
our doors, and sometimes indeed, we were duly prevented
from indulirins: in such luxuries throuyjh the entire ab-
sence of the door itself The burglar alarm, as we un-
derstood that term, to use a legal phrase came "after the
the fact." It was a process without the expenditure of
county money, it chiefly concerned the robbers individ-
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ually, and the sequence was in nearly all instances
certain death. There were no extenuatino; circunistan-
ces to bo advanced, when the crime was theft. I remem-
ber one day coming past a rock upon which lay a buck-
skin puj.se, stuffed, and to all appearance, containing
probably a thousand dollars in dust There was nobody
in siijtht, but I doubted not that the ri^jhtful owner was
in hiding somewhere near, and I passed by on the oppo-
site side of the road, feeling sure that anyone attempt-
ing to touch that purse, would be immediately intro-
duced to Judge Lynch. It is true that we were not alto-
gether a pious settlement, but for obvious reasons we
kept the eighth commandment for all it was worth, and
it may be that if matters were dealt with in the same
manner to-day, there would be less thieving than there
is. The penal code of the early days in the mining
camps, was undoubtedly severe, but it was wonderfully
effective.
I
CHAPTER X.
A Spree for a Tip — Our Social Couditious — The Glorious Fourth
— A Dinner at Galloway's — A Fight for Blood — A Speeds-
Trial — Thirty-nine Lashes — Big Logan — A Singular Suicide —
Prospecting with Kanakas — A Rough Journey — Verdant
Pastures.
As a matter of course our prospecting tours could not
always be attended with succees, but we took care to ap-
pear, on our return, as if we had achieved satisfactory
results. I remember once being away for some time and
bringing up at Charlie Simmons' on my return, while
the "boys" went down to Downieville. We had not
been very lucky, but we did not propose to make that
anybody else's business. The *boys," as usual, wanted a
spree after their hardships, but not having made it, they
did not feel inclined to spend their money, and Joe, one
of the cfowd, cast about for some cheap manner in which
to celebrate their return The opportunity soon pre-
sented itself The hombres,''' who were naturally a
curious lot, were in the habit of inviting returning pros-
pectors to their cabins, treating them to drink and then
would attem^pt to pump them. It was of this custom
that our friend Joe took advantage for the benefit of
hi^nself and his mates.
Being invited into a cabin, they were first offered a
few drinks, and then the questioning began. Joe pre-
tended to be getting confidential. He gave a knowing
* A Spanish word meaning companion, here used as meaning
certain classes of the miners.
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wink, and intimated that by and by he would tell them
something worth knowing. More grog was passed out,
and such of the "boys" as had not yet been asked to
come in, were called up, and it was suggested that Joe
should reveal his secret ; but he told them not to be in
a hurry. Brandy flowed fast and freely, and everyone
went to bed half-seas over, to get up and resume the
spree next morning. Their entertainers thought that,
no doubt, Joe would tell them if his speaking organs
were properly lubricated, and their faith in the "Major's"
luck was great. In the course of the day the question
was again put to Joe. "Keep dark, and I will tell you,''
he said. "Not a word about this ! Do you understand ?
Nobody must know where you get it from."
"You need not fear,'^ came back the answer. "Do you
think 1 would be such a fool as to mention it ?"
"I don't know when the 'Major' is going out again,
but I am ojoing- with him. when he does oo. It is rich :
you bet it is rich !"
"Well," said the expectant host, "how nmch ?"
Joe had a way of speaking, which inspired confidence.
He put both hands on the shoulders of his interrogator,
looked him straight in the eyes and said, in an under-
tone :
"Just $500 to the pan."
The eyes, cheeks and mouth of the listener expand-
ed into an expression of supreme satisfaction. "And
where is it ?" lie stammered, trying to fill his lungs, from
which the breath had almost escaped. Joe put his mouth
to the fellow's ear and whispered the direction, an entirely
imaginary one, as the location only existed in Joe's
inventive brain ; but the information was well worth
more drink, and a protracted spree followed, after which
the hombres stole out of camp in the dead of night and
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
107
made for the newly-discovered diggings ''over the hills
and far away."
My narrative now takes me up to the time when, for
the second time in th-e far West, I should celebrate that
greatest of American festivals, the Fourth of July. My
reader will, no doubt, remember my brief mention of
this celebration when, as a new-comer, I had only been
in San Francisco one week. Strange, indeed, did the
scenes appear to me then, as they unfolded themselves
before my wondering gaze, but as I remembered the past
year, what scenes far stranger still, lay before me, in
many of which I had played a most important part,
I had imagined, when I left San Francisco, that 1 should
spend my near future in the (juietude of isolated places,
but I had found, as time passed by, that one of the main
arteries of the world's great heart throbbed with quick
pulsation in the very surroundings where T had lived
and toiled in suffering, or in the enjoyment of life. I
had seen the most varied phases of life — men, with
many thousands of dollars within easy reach, starving
for the want of food, and others living on the charity of
their fellow-men for want of means; and I had seen
men's passions rise until they carried away reason and
made human brutes of those who felt their sway. There
were many well-known scenes that greeted me in the
retrospective view of that one year, and while some of
them were terrible to behold, there were manv others
pleasing enough, reminding me of happy moments spent
in congenial company or among men whose motto was:
''Begone, dull carel"
There can be no doubt that men are moulded by cir-
cumstances. They assume characteristics according to
the circumstances that surround them. The lawyer, the
soldier, the scientist, are all different in their modes of
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
109
thinking and their ways of acting. The sailor is blunt;
the tradesman suave and respectful. The California
|)i()neer miner was a being entirely distinct from any of
his fellow beinofs. He was rouyrh, darinor, indefatigable
The nature in which he lived, and the object for which
he toiled, made him so. But he was also generous, often
to lavishness. He knew what it meant to suffer want,
and he did not wish anyone else to experience it. He
often made a fortune in the course of a few hours, and
the value he placed upon it was small and in proj)ortion
to the brief space of time it took him to accumulate it.
His associates were drawn from all classes, but on the
gold-field in the early days, everybody was on the same
level. Class distinctions crept in later on, it is true, but
they were not known among the earliest pioneers, and
when they came, they appeared in the same garb as they
do to-day under our present conditions— the garbof **one
man-richer-than-tlie other."
Early in the history gf California mining, various ele-
ments crept in which tended to degrade and demoralize
the community to some extent. The grog-vendor and
the monte-banker became responsible for much trouble.
Men who counted money of so little value, ai«. did many
of these miners, were not calculated to resist temptation,
when thrown in their way as the only recreation obtain-
able, and as a result, irregularities followed. But the
reckless spirit of that period prompted the comnmnity to
make short work of the offenders. I have shown
already how we made our own laws, but sometimes the
court was spared any trouble in the matter through
immediate action on the part of the crowd or offended
parties; and if a criminal went into court, the jury under-
stood the desire of the public and gave a verdict accord-
ingly. In all such cases the severest punishment was
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meted out, and lynch-law often resorted to. It was the
natuml outcome of conditions which called for strict and
decisive measure as the only means of subduing a spirit
of lawlessness and a tendency to crime, and above all,
theft and nmrder were vigorously prosecuted, and in
either case, death was almost the inevitable sequence.
I have made the above remarks with a view to explain,
and to some extent excuse some of the more strikinjx
occurences that took place at Downieville in the early
days.
Everything looked festive when the sun appeared
over the lofty Sierras on that 4th of July morning. On
Jersey Flat and up and down the Yuba, all around the
Forks wherever tent or cabin served as habitation, the
Stars and Stripes had been exhibited, denoting enthu-
siasm — not only on the part of native Americans, but on
the part of the many who had sworn allegiance to the
flag, and under its protection were seeking to make
themselves and the world richer. As a matter of course,
the store-keepers were kept busy, as the day wore on.
Wherever there was a kefj containinsr stronof drink,
clusters were gathered within or without, as space would
allow, and men took turns to get to the counter and
drink to the glorious Fourth. Where one year ago the
timid deer gazed on the verdant meadow, undisturbed,
save for the casual appearance of some Indian hunter,
echoed on this day hundreds of jubilant shouts, while
the miner forgot his toil and his tools lay idle on the
deserted claims. The Downieville of to-day, presents a
very different appearance from what it did then, and I
doubt if, with all the national enthusiasm that fires
its present loyal inhabitants, it would be possible to get
up as much steam for a Fourth of July celebration, as
HUNTING FOR GOLD
111
we did on this, our first observance of the national holi-
da}" in those (juarter^i.
At Galloway's an elaborate dinner was prepared. It
was not served a la Rasse or in the so-called, French
style, there were no gilt-edged menu cards to tell us
what the next course would be; neither were we waited
upon by men in swallow-tails and white shirt fronts; nor
did we drink wine from crystal goblets but we had
the best that could be procured where money was no
object, and where the only impediments were the
distance from the market and the difficulties of iifettinsf
there. Mrs. Galloway had prepared the dinner, and it
was pronounced "fit for a prince." Bottled ale played
an important part on that occasion, and it was varied
with something stronger of different kinds. The company
became animated and toast followed toast. We drank
to the Star Spangled Banner, to George Washington
and the galaxy of states — men and soldiers who had
shared the laurels with him, to the American nation in
general and the constitution in particular; to absent
friends and to everything and anything else that it was
possible to toast.
Meanwhile the carousing;' had been jjoing: on in other
parts of the settlement, and in the afternoon men began
to get hilarious. Shots were fired from guns and pis-
tols, and the racket increased until the general tunmlt
and excitement assumed dimensions which could hardlv
t/
be exceeded by a modern celebration, when fire crackers,
brass bands and processions are brought into action.
Then occurred the first incident of which I am about to
speak.
Two men, who had been indulging in the fiery liquid
until their brains became giddy, had a quarrel. It
passed from words to blows, and the fight became furi-
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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ous. In the heat of passion one of tlieni drew a knife^
and before his adversary could ward oti' the thrust, or
by-standers interfere, he sunk it deep into his oppo-
nent's body. The blood spurted out, as the wounded
man sank to the ground. The wound did not prove a
daiiijferous one, but at the time no one knew the extent
of the injury done, and the sight of blood inflamed the
crowd with any^er towards the man who did the stab-
biny-. He was seized and bound, and while a few attend-
ed to the wounded man, the miscreant was at once
brought to justice. He was comparatively a stranger
and no doubt thoUii:ht that in these rouoh surroundinLTS
the use of a knife was in order. But the jury saw no
extenuating circumstances which could excuse him, and
he was sentenced to thirty-nine lashes on the bare back.
There was no reason to postpone the execution of jus-
tice, and while the slanting rays of the midsummer sun
fell upon the scene, and the hot air filled the valley with
an ahnost stifling atmosphere, the wretched man was
brought out to receive his punishment. He was tied hand
and foot to a slender tree, and the fioij^ginyj infiicted with
a stout strip of rawhide. It was a sickeninu' sij^ht to
behold. "Big" Logan, who wielded the instrument ot
torture, was a large, limscular man, whose sinewy arms
denoted enormous strength. He was a sailor by occupa-
tion, but had lately driven an ox team across the plains,
and was well practiced in the use of a whip, and more-
over he was a cousin of the injured man. It may, there-
fore, be easily understood that he performed his task in a
manner which would have done credit to any Siberian
executioner, of whom Kenna or Paradyce has written.
The unfortunate culprit writhed in agony, as the heavy
strokes fell upon his body, which became more and more
lacerated by each blow that ta.])ped the blood from his
HUNTING FOR GOLD
113
veins, and at last, Logan secniod the only man in the
crowd who was entirely unmoved by the horrible spec-
tacle.
Thijs same Loo-an was an extraordinary man. He will
be mentioned later on, as playing a jn-ominent part in
another dramatic occurrence which took place one year
later, but I cannot here refrain from savins^ a few words
concerniny: his own remarkable career and end.
He was seemingly a man entirely void of any nobler
sentiments. Sympathy seemed strange to him, and fear
he did not know. He was cool, indifferent to circum-
stances, strong in the knowledge of liis own physical
power, and a giant in proportions, yet he was not
vicious, except his passions were aroused, when he became
ferocious. What other men shrunk from, he could do
in cold blood without flinching, and therefore he was
repeatedly called upon to act as executioner when the
sentence of the law demanded one. He performed his
task with neither hesitation nor pleasure ; he simply
seemed to do it because he was a.sked to do it, just as
he would have lent a man a tool, or otherwise accommo-
dated him, if requested to do so.
Still, for some reasons, I think that Logan had a liking
for revolting scenes, and concealed his satisfaction under
a cloak of assumed indifference. When afterwards
Walker got ready for his famous Nicaragua expedition,
liOgan enlisted in his battalion and went with him. It
was while fi*jhtinfy a savao;e foe in those reo^ions, that
Logan volunteered to pass in his checks rather than to
allow himself to be taken prisoner, and perhaps be sub-
jected to some such tortures as he had inflicted upon
others without flinching. It is hard to say whether he
was prompted by courage or cowardice, but when he
saw himself surrounded by the enemy, instead of
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HUNTINO roR (iOLD
surrundorin^, ho diseni^'-aijjod tlio bayonet from liis rifle;,
and [)icrciiiL»- his <>\vii licart with it, tell dead at the feet
of his captors.
CATCHINO BREAKFAST ON THE YUBA.
This was the strange end of a remarkable man. He
was repulsive rather than otherwise, but the singular
HUNTING FOR GOLD
115
Tiianner of his deatli threw a halo over his niomcry,
which in the eyes of many raised him to a hero.
But I return to my story of the 4tii of July. The
excitement continued till far into the nioht. The tioij-
gini]f scene was soon forgotten by everybody except the
culprit, and "Big" Logan, who was treated by all his
admirers who ap})reciated his nerve and herculean
strength. The miners drank in bumpers, while the gold
Hew over the counters in the stores where grog was
dispensed. The keeper of the monte table called for
attention, and fickle fortune was tempted while the night
passed on, and the day of liberty had been spent in a
manner worthy of its cause, proving that morally and
physically, the celebrants, with one exception, knew
neither shackles nor fetters.
It may be remarked in connection with this, that the
flogging of that day had a remarkably healthy influence
on our comnmnity. The miners had established a prec-
edent, and whenever anybody flourished a knife in an
angry moment, it was merely necessary to remind him
of what happened on the Fourth of Jul}', and for a long
time the eflTect of such a reminder, was simply magical.
About this time I had opened a store on Kanaka Flat,
in partnership with a man named H, B. Cossitt. He
was to run the store, while I went prospecting, for the
in-door life of store-keeping was not according to my
taste. I was nearly always traveling about, looking for
new diggings, and was, as a rule, very fortunate in pros-
pecting. Among the men who belonged to my company,
was a Kanaka who went by the name of John Wilson.
He spoke but imperfect English, but he was fond of
telling, us in his best lingo, that in his own country he
was a Prince and looked upon with much reverence.
When addressing us, he would strike his breast and say:
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
i!
"Mc prince in my own country; nie u^n-at man; me very
l)ii^ iiuin at iiomc." It would seem that this darU-iiued
min(!r was roallv a incmbor of the illustrious Kamehaine-
lia family, and I have been told that lie was afterwards
unidc Kinij of the Sandwii'h Islands. I do not know
liow far this statement is true, hut he is by no means
the oidy man with whom I have worked in the mines,
whether white or colored, who claimed close relationship
with famous men, and at times succeeded to prominent
positions in the world. He was one (mt of many of this
class who came to the gold-fields to find out thnt birth
and associations did not lielp a man to discover gold, and
who, after spending many weary months in blasting rocks
or damming rivers, without finding the color, have at
last come to the conclusion that Dame Fortune chooses
her favorites independently of their rank.
It was getting on towards the Fall, and I thought I
Would make one more prospecting tour, before the season
closed. I took four Kanakas with me, and left Kanaka
Flat with a donkey packed with provisions sufficient to
last us for a few weeks. My ambition was to get to one
particular mountain, situated near the pass at the head
waters of the South P^ork, as I expected to find plent^'of
gold there. The mountain was shaped like the roof of a
liouse, and summer and winter its summit was covered
with snow. I did not think tb.at it was very far distant,
but discovered, 'ere long, that my judgment was consider-
ably at fault. It is altogether remarkable how the chap-
paral will deceive in the matter of distances. One may
think himself fast approaching a towering mountain, and
suddenly discover that he has miles to travel before
reaching it, and I have often in this manner been re-
minded of the journey of life, where we are always look-
ing ahead to some sunny spot before us, wliich seems con-
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117
tinually to recede, as we advance. Our journey proved full
of ditiiculties. We crossed the Nortli Yuha and kept u\)
tlie divide, until we caiue to the meadows, ai)()ut where
Jackson's ranch now stands, but after tliat our trcuhles
increased. The Cha{)[)aral was iu some i)laces impcne-
trahle, and our donkey «»ot stuck, pack and all, and we
liad to cut him out with hatcliets and make a way for
him, and tliis o[)eration was not unhke the cuttinj^
tlirou«j;h the ice to f^et a ship out of the Hoes. At other
times, in descending UKJuntains, the decHvity would he so
steep that the poor brute could not walk down. Then
we liad t(^ un[)ack its burden and lower it over the shelv-
ing rock, and afterwards rope the donkey down; and this
same operation we reversed, when ascending a similar
stuep incline. One night we camped on one of these
shelves. Darkness had come u{)on us, and we could not
safely proceed. We had no water, but far below our feet
we heard the rushinu; of the mountain stream, babblin<r
its lullaby to us in a tantalizing manner, while we had
nothing with which to quench our thirst. But privations
in those days had become a matter of usage, and they
were soon forgotten. Camped in such places, the "boys"
generally invented some kind of sport asa divertisement,
and it was a common thing to see them setting fire to
the moss on the bark of the trees and watch the blaze
run up to tlie top of the mighty trunk. Or, if it
were daylight, they would loosen rocks and bowlders and
send them crashiuir down the mountain side. I have
seen them prying, four or five at a time, at some huge
bowlder, and when it rolled down with ever-increasing
force, they would watch it with the same interest as the
sports watch a horse-race.
At last we reached our mountain, and as we traveled
round it, it assumed all sorts of shapes, but the gold
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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which we expected to find lying loose on the surface
was not there, although there was plenty of slate and
black sand and (quartz, and I still believe that there is
gold there, although we did not find it.
Our provisions were now getting scarce, and we were
afl'raid of being overtaken by the winter storms, so we
made for home. We kept on the outskirts of the chap-
parel and passed through meadows and the most luxur-
ious pastures. On Wolf creek we found gold, and there
fell in with Mr. Fugent and my old friend, Jack Smith,
who were prospecting. From th-^re I went down to
Downieville, more particularly to report the discovery of
pastural land, and then returned to my store on Kanaka
Flat.
Hit
iii
CHAPTER XI.
Another Winter in the Mountains — Captain Thomas R. Stoddarc^l—
Two "Well-known Millionaires — Fifteen-Hundred Dollars a Day
— Gold on the Wagon Tires — Sleeping on a Fortune — Fluni-
ing a River — Poorman's Creek — Back to Downieville — Ten
Bits to the Pan — Rantedodler Bai' — Sunday Reminiscences.
Let me briefly take my readers throug^h the winter of
*50 '51. It wasduring that period that some of the
richest treasures hidden in California soil were unearth-
ed, and our company was undoubtedly instrumental in
creating that tremendous excitement which in the fol-
lowing spring, swept over the diggings in our part of the
world, and caused many miners to abandon their claims
to go in search of other and better chances.
The Yuba began to look bare, as the fall advanced.
At Kanaka Flat the sable hunters became more scarce,
as they went below for the winter, and I regret to say,
most of them without settlinijf their bills at our store.
I had been in a similar position before, and when I
desired to move away, had simply settled all accounts by
burning my books and giving the balance of my stock
away, as I never allowed myself to cry over spilt milk.
On the present occasion, my partner went down to Marys-
ville to see about a fresh supply of stores, and I got ready
to look for other digjii^inofs.
I had in my company at that time, a few old stand-
bys — men on whom I could rely, and who had been with
me all along, with one exception. They were Charlie
Thompson, "Dutch" Harry, little Mike Duvarney and
Captain Thomas R. Stoddard. The latter was compa.-
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HUNTINCi FOR (iOLD
il
ntivelv a ncw-coiiior a.nioiio"st us. Ho was a roiiiarkablc
man. and played a puculiar part in tho early history of
California mininLf. Mor(3 than any other, ho eontril)uted
towards the sensation caused by tho rumors of the "Gold
Lake" diirsjfiiiixs, to which reference has already been
made. He insisted that lie had been there, and lie told
some romantic tales of encounters with Indians, and
showed a scar below his knee, where the Redskins had
wounded him with an arrow. He also told how, on his
rii''ht from them, he had made his way across the
mountains and the middle Yuba, but his accounts were
incoherent, and in some respects appeared im})rol)al)le.
He was possessed of a gentlemanly bearin_L»', and of more
than ordinary education, and undoul)tedly belonged to a
good family. But my impression is that he was not
mentally well balanced. Be this as it may, the miners
had a dislike for him because of his singular stories,
which had disappointed the hopes of a good many of
them, and I had taken hhy-. into my company partly for
the purpose of protecting him. He would often say,
when we struck anything particulai'ly rich, "At Gold
Lake w^e would not consider this worth picking up."
But the location of this w<)nderful place remained forever
a mystery.
I was determined to try my luck in Plumas county,
and got everything ready for a start, and v/ith my com-
pany and a couple of horses made my way across the
mountains to the north of Downieville. We met with
the usual hardships, and found Sear's Diggings aban-
doned, tho miners having left after tho first storm.
There were only two cabins on the field at that time,
and in one of these deserted habitations wo found a
quantity of fiour which had been left in the hurry of
departure.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
We took the trail for Poonnan's Creek, and found
that nearly everybody had left for the winter. But we
decided to make our camp here, so we located a claim
on the left-hand side of the creek, below the first fall,
and were soon taking out plenty of gold. We found the
precious metal in big lumps, weighing from one pound
to twenty-five ounces, and set to work to build a cabin
in this El Dorado. Not longj after we were settled,
Messrs. Flood and O'Brien called at our camp. They
had been prospecting in the locality, but had not found
any of the lum})s, and were surprised when we showed
them our find. They remained for a few days with us,
and then left for parts unknown, but their phenomenal
success in later years, makes up for their disappointment
on Poorman's creek, when they made a"ten-strike"in the
silver mines of Nevada, the celebrated Comstock lode,
as did also several old-timers of the Yuba diooinorg ^
train of fifty-three pack mules came up about this time
with provisions, and I was glad to give some of our
lumpy gold in exchange for the whole stock, after whieji
we built a cabin and made ourselves comfortable for the
winter.
We had every reason to be satisfied, as we were tak-
ing out from ten to fifteen hundred dollars a day, but
yet, we often discussed the next move to be made with
the return of spring. The wonderful tales that Captain
Stoddard used to tell, made some of us wish to try and
find Gold Lake, or at all events, some other spot, richer
still than where we were located ; but our prospecting
fever reached its climax long before we expected.
One day two men found their way down the creek,
and like all stragglers, made a bee-line for Major
Downie's cabin. We found them there on our return
that evening. They were making themselves comfort-
HUNTING FOR GOLD
123
able by the fire, and soon proved very agreeable fellows.
They stayed with us for several days, and saw the rich
gold we took out, and when thoy became familiar
enough to impart a secret, they told us of a wonderful
"strike" they had made in coming over the mountains.
They described the location fully, and told us that they
had found surface gold in lumps so large that they had
hammered tliem on the wagon tires. They stated that
as they did not know much about gold, they were not
sure whether they had really struck it or not, but their
description left no doubt in our minds that they had
found the genuine article.
We all listened eagerly to their accounts, and even Cap-
tain Stoddard began to think that the fabulous riches of
Gold Lake had been surpassed. As to myself, I admit
that I was staggered by tlieir accounts. I gave them a
good deal of consideration, and it seemed to me that
these strangers must have discovered the fountain-head
of all the lumpy gold in these p'arts. I imagined, and
with some reason, that our late finds were merely the
tail-end of an auriferous comet, so to speak — the nucleus
of which might be found somewhere, and probably existed
exactly where our visitors indicated ; and building up
up such a theory in my own mind, I determined to find
the place. It was arranged that my partner, Mr, Cos-
sitt should open a store on the creek as a stand-by, while
I went in search of the treasure.
At Downeiville I made up a company of six, among
whom were Dr. Young and Henry Cosair. We went
north, crossing Little Canyon Creek, but when we
got to Big Canyon Creek, there was no way of getting
over but by wading. It was very cold. The snow lay
upon the mountains, and the water that came down was
chilled with it ; but we had no alternative, and so we
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
stripped and waded in up to our armpits in snow-water,
carrying" our packs on our heads. Truly tlie magnetic
pole has no greater power over the needle of the compass,
than has gold ov^er the desire of man, and in those days
the pioneer miners would dare and do anything for the
lust of it. On the opposite shore we had to make our
way over frozen snow. The incline was steep, and we
were often obli«jfed to cut our foot-holds in the snow, but
we braved the difficulties, and at last reached the Red
Mountams.
We soon arrived at the conclusion that we were on a
wild-goose chase. All our prospecting failed to reveal
the expected treasures, and the chisel, which one of our
party had brought for the purpose of breaking the large
lumps with, proved superfluous. The gold (]uarry, of
which we were in search, could not be found, and we
turned our steps towards the North Yuba, this time
crossing Canyon Creek without trouble. None of us had
any fault to find. We had become used to disappoint-
ments of this kind, and when, that night, we camped at
the Buttes, we were perfectly resigned to our fate, and
took our disappointment in good part.
Our camping ground was on the site where now stands
the Buttes Mill, and when we awoke in the morning,
and looked about to examine the location, we were
agreeably surprised to discover that we had been sleep-
ing on a particularly rich spot. The place was a small
Flat at the mouth of a small ravine, and all around we
found large pieces of quartz mixed with gold, which
appeared in considerable quantities. As soon as we had
ascertained our good luck, I got out pencil and paper to
write out a notice, when I was stayed by Henry Cosair,
who drew my attention to the fact that a number of men
were making their way down the ravine. Sure enough,,
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
125
there was a party of miners, headed by a man named
Leonard. As usual, they had followed the "Major's"
track, trusting that they might share in some of the
proverbial good fortune which was supposed to always
attend him. We then decided to withdraw for the
time-being, and moved our camp higher up the ravine.
Our stratagem however, proved in vain. We took it
easy, and the men settled down to play at bean poker,
but the other company took possession of our rich find.
They picked up the gold that we had found, and, to make
a long story short, although we were the first white men
to ascend tlie Sierra Buttes, we did not get anything
for our trouble. The news of the discovery traveled
quickly abroad, and for days kept the miners on the
neighboring fields in a fever of excitement, but person-
ally I did not get one single lump of all this gold.
I was not disheartened, but somewhat disgusted. I
turned my steps down the South Fork, and set about
putting in a flume in the river above Kanaka Flat, I
paid ten dollars a day for whip-sawyers to cut my lumber.
When the fliume was finished, it had cost me ten thou-
sand dollars. But worst of all — the current of the river
had washed away all the gold, and I got nothing for my
trouble but a poor experience. The experiment had
proved a hard-cash failure, and I returned to Poorman's
Creek.
It will be remembered that I had instructed my
partner to establish a store here. He had accordingly
gone down below, bought what he thought would be a
good speculation, and on his return opened an establish-
ment which did not at all suit my taste. There was
plenty of whisky, brandy and champagne, and in front
of the store a round tent, where the monte cards were
being dealt, while several young fellows of the "Fancy
12G
HUNTING KOK COLD
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Class" ap])eared in the crowd — so-called "dead beats,"
whose only duty was to keep the game ijoing. Provis-
ions were scarce on the Creek, notwithstandiiiijf the
demand for them, and somebody kept packin*^ whisky
kei^s down the hill to the miners below, until they
swore that the next keg that arrived, before Hour was
brought down, would be knocked to pieces, and the con-
tents allowed to run to waste. I now went back to my
claim, but to my great suq)rise, my ])artner had sold it
to a stranger for one ounce. I did not feel inclined to
dis})ute the possession of it, and so left him alone, but I
learned afterwards that he had taken $80,000 out of it,
and meanwhile, I had swum the cold rivers, slept in the
snow, been within finger-touch of an enormous fortune,
and missed it — sunk $10,000 cash in a futile effort to
find gold in a river bed, and here I stood, minus a claim
that was yielding me as much as $1,500 per day when
I left it, and all I had received in return, was a succes-
sion of brilliant hopes wliicli had exploded like sky-rock-
ets in the night, leaving no ^race of their radiant paths.
I began to think that I would try the Yuba once more,
and went back to Downieville, hoping for better luck
next time.
It is astonishing how implicitly all kinds of stories of
big strikes were believed. My own case was by no
means a singular one, as everyone seemed ready to give
up what he had, however good it might be, should he
happen to hear even the vaguest rumor of something
better. I remember an instance where a few irreenhorns
set the whole town in a fever of excitement through
their own ignorance of what they were doing. They
were camping on the river bank, about one mile away,
and as they stayed there for sometime, it was concluded,
by the know^ing ones, that they were making it. A fel-
HUNTING FOR GOLD
127
low called Steve, made u\) his mind to find out, and one
day, when some of them were in town for provisions, he
approached them and began quizzing them. He was
told in reply that they had found what they called "a
riijjht smart chance of ijfold."
''How much does it prospect ?" inquired Steve,
"Sometimes more, and sometimes less;" said the man
questioned, evasively.
"But on an average — ?" Sujj^ijested Steve, determined
to learn something.
"Well, never less than eight or ten bits to the pan,"
said the other.
Steve was delighted. He made straight forhiscanq)
and comm'inicated the fact to his companions. It was
decided to keep the mattoi dark until they had located
their own claims, and that night, under cover of darkness,
the company and about a dozen friends, stole out of
camp, and the next morning the sun rose upon a number
of miners who had put up their tents on new claims, and
were busily engaged staking them oft' according to min-
ing regulations. After breakfast, the pick and pan were
brought into requisition, and the men examined the bank
up and down the creek, but none could find more than
just a few specks. Steve was deputed to interview the
discoverer of the supposed gold, and ask him for further
directions. He was told that there was plenty of gold
"rit'-ht down there". Steve asked him to be kind enouofh
to go down and wash a pan or two, and the man readily
complied. The stranger set to work, dug a pan of dirt,
washed it down pretty close, and began turning it round
and round, so that a little black sand could be seen.
Then he began counting: "One, two, three, four, five,
six, seven, eight, nine I Yes there are nine bits in that
pan."
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128
HUNTiNd I'oK c;oi.n
«r
Where ?" asked Stove, tliiiikiM«4' for a moment that
he liad suddenly l)e('oi»«e eolor-Mind.
"Tliere!" l^^jaculate«i tlie otlier, impatiently, "can't
you see ?" And he pointed to a few specks in the sand.
Steve straij^htened himself uj), turned his hiick upon
the stranger, and rnn hack to his mates. He could
hadly speak for laughter, and besides, lie stammered
considerably; but when lie liad com[)osed himself a lit-
tle, he burst out; "The da-da-danincd greeidiorns call a
sp-sp-speck a bit, and t-t-ten sp-s])-specks, the}' call
t-t-ten b-b-bits. And this was the end of the mininfj on
Greenhorn Creek, where the gold ran ten bits to the
pan.
Towards spring our company began work in Secret
Canyon, just below Jim Crow Canyon, We were doing
well, and fillino our sacks, but one ni<j^htone of the i)artv
got up and left with all our gold. He made for Canada,
where he staved for a while, but afterwards liad the
audacity to come back to Downieville. Here he met
with a reception somewhat cooler than he had anticipated,
and left for Australia, where he is reported to have
made a large fortune; but on his return with it to
America the ship foundered and he was never heard of
after.
I next tried \\\\ luck below Goodvear's Bar, and lo-
cated on Kantedodler Bar, where I found o^ood diiXU'inufs,
and put up a cabin. Somehow I always got tlie hardest
drinking men in my company, and often had considerable
trouble on that account. I have seen two of my men
meeting in the cal)in door, each carrymg a pail of whisky.
"Where were you ?" Asked the one.
"Down for the bitters," said the other; and they
would call their mates and drink the contents as an
appetizer before breakfast. It got to be so bad, that
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
m
hi
when a iiuui was fouiiil Iviinjc dead-drunk, with the sun
beating down upon Iiim, and a bottle sticking out of his
pocket, people would say. "Oh he is all riglit; he knows
how to take care of hiniself; he belongs to the Major's
crowd," and whether he really did or not, nmde no ditler-
ence, he got the credit anyhow. I had two married
men with me here, whose drinking propensities .severely
tried my patience. Several times I determined to dis-
charge them, but they always found some excuse. Thoy
would generally begin to cry, and between their tears
and draughts of whisky, tell me that they had just had
letters from home.
"The wife has just had a baby," one would say, and
the other would follow with a story al)out "The old
woman wantinijf him to come home, but he liad not
made enough to go." Indeed, it was hard to see how
some of those fellows could ever expect to make enough,
at the rate they threw their gold away for whisky.
One of these fell head foremost down a shaft thirty feet
deep. The other, who had seen him go up to the shaft
and suddenly missed him, went down to the mouth of it
and called out : "Are you down there, Scotty ?"
"Aye aye I" cried Scotty, "Send dowm the rope
Charlie." The man was not injured at all, save for a
shaking, which a draught of whisky soon made him for-
get.
One of this drunken crowd got into a scrape with a
Dutchman, and nothing would do to vindicate honor,
but to fight a duel with pistols. So he went down to
Goodyear's Bar to buy paper and ink, intending to ask
me to write out a challenge. On the way home, in
some manner the cork came out of the bottle, and the
black fluid got all over his hands and face. His appear-
ance in camp created much amusement, and he looked
mTNTINO FOR OOM)
VM
like a monkey (.'oiniiiuf out of a tar barrel. Nothing
more was heard of his intentions to Hijjlit a tluel, and lie
was kept husy for several days, trying to scour the
black patches otf his face.
The water in the river rose and we had to leave ofl'
working for a while. Dust bc^came scarce and some of
the V)oys involuntarily sobered up. There was a Mr.
Briggs, who kept a store at Goodyear's IW, and also
owned a claim adjoining mine at Kantododler. One day
some of my men, hanging round his place without a cent
in their pockets, contrived a scheme for getting free
drinks, which shows, both the knowledge they possessed
of human nature, and also the spirit of the age. Seated
in the bar-room they began to talk of the "Major's latest
strike,"
"And sure," says one, "that is pretty nice gold right
asfainst Mr. Brigij^'s claim "
"Yes," joined in another, "The Major says he is going
to lose the best of it; it is all in Mr. Briggs' claim."
"What's that," inquired the store-keeper, pricking up
his ears.
Then followed an account of a wonderful discovery of
a rich lead that lost itself into Mr. Brisrsfs' claim, and all
the Major had said about it.
"And did the Major really say so ?" shouted the
delighted storekeeper.
"Sure !"
"Come up boys and have a drink," called the man who
now saw thousands of bright dollars shininjj in his
imagination.
"Oh no thank you," said one of the crowd modestly,
"We left the dust in the camp."
"Dust or no dust ! What matter? Money is no object,
come up boys, can Downie's men no longer drink ?"
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
That settled it. Determined not to lose their repu-
tation, they sailed in and never let go till the store-keep-
er had filled them up to their utmost capacity. But
what did he care ? He saw before him a large fortune
in his splendid claim. He lived for the hour in the
sunshine of brilliant hopes, as so many of us have done
both before and since, and after all a man generally
enjoys himself as well if not better, while looking into
the >uture with hopeful eyes, than he does when the
reality is reached, which is too often attended by bitter
disappointments.
i i
CHAPTER XII.
A Severe Winter — Alexander McDonald — Close to a Fortune — A
Lawsuit — Organizing a Mining District — Sluicing and Tun-
neling — The Summer of '58 — Reports From the Fraser — A
Wind-up — Now and Then — Quoting a Forty-niner.
I should, indeed, weary my reader, were I to contin-
ue my every-day experience as time passed, u ig my
stay in the California mines, and will, there foiv, bring
this portion of my account to a close, briefly passing
over the remainder of the time before I left for other
fields.
The winter of '51-52 was an unusually severe one, and
I and my companions suffered a good deal of hardship.
It was during this period that I met Alexander McDon-
ald, and a very warm friendship sprang up between us,
which lasted for many years. We became mates, both
on the California gold-fields, and later on in British
Columbia ; and I shall have more to say in a future
chapter, of the tragic fate which befell this man, who
was, indeed, one of the best of friends, and one of the
most generous of men. Towards the close of the winter,
McDonald and I went to Indian Creek, where we met
with unexpected success, and notwithstanding the sever-
ity of the season took out a large quantity of gold. From
this place I afterward moved to Grizzly Hill, but had
no luck there, and determined again to turn my attention
to sluicing, for which purp e I went to Indian Hill,
I stayed at Indian Hill for quite a while and took out
some gold. Later on I removed to Ramshorn Creek near
St. Joe Bar. Never were prospects brighter and my
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HUNTING FOK GOLD
l'4il
heart was full of hope, but I was doomed to suflfer the
humiliation of succumbiiii*; in a contest where the most
money carried the greatest weight.
Right ahead of me on the creek was a comi)any, known
as the St. Louis Boy. They were rich and influential,
and had come there with the fixed purpose of increasing
their fortune, even if they had to go to some expense.
It did not take them lono- to find out that the locality
was ci first-class one, but, unfortunately for me, they
wanted all within reach, and I became a thorn in their
side. At first they attempted to persuade me to give
up my claim, but I was fully aware of the great chances
I had in this place, and would not be bluffed. Then
they cast about for some tangible reason to bring a law-
suit, and indeed succeded in finding a pretext, to my
great surprise. I saw at once, that it was a matter of
feeding the lawyers, and realized that I could not com-
pete with my opponents. For a while I held out, but
found it wiser to yield and withdraw rather than spend
my money in vain. But in letting go my claim, I gave
up one of the best chances I ever had of making a for-
tune.
I then tried Clark's Canyon, where I struck it rich,
but for want of water I did not succeed in makino- a
raise, and went into Plumas County, prospecting. On
my return to my old location I found that my claim had
gone. Mr. G. Hughes had been working higher up in
the canyon and had met with some success, taking away
several bags of gold.
I next went to Slate Creek House, with Dr. Jump,
for the purpose of making laws and organizing a new
mining district. We also formed a company which
undertook to run a tunnel on the west branch of Can-
yon Creek, and for sometime we pushed ahead with
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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this work, but ultimately gave it up, and I formed
another company, which drove a tunnel in the F'ir Cap
ridge, known as the Alma tunnel. Here wo spent
twenty-two months in a very rough country. Our only
shelter was a "dug out" in the mountain side, and any
stranger, wishing to find it, had no other land-mark to
go by than the smoke coming out of the flue.
After sinking $14,000 in a vain attempt to find any-
thing worth working, we gave up the Alma, and I
bought into the Keystone Tunnel Company, and after-
wards mined below Forest City, but with no success.
I next tried in succession. Poorman's Creek, South,
Scotchman Creek and Washington, where I bought a
shaio from Charlie Stymer in the Hagler Tunnel on
Brandy Flat. There was plenty of hard work here,
with but small returns, and then the reports of the
Fraser River excitement reached the mining camps of
California.
I have now briefly taken my reader as far as the
Spring of '58, the year when the great exodus to
British Columbia was inaugurated. California miners
were ready to listen to the call that came from these
northern fields. Ever reckless; ever on the move for
some better chance, they would at all times have fol-
lowed promptings which bade them go in search of
possible treasures, but on this occasion they went partly
for other reasons. The fact of the matter was, that
gold-seeking on the old lines was gradually decreasing.
When the stream of adventurers first flooded California,
after Marshall's discovery had been proclaimed, gold
was readily found. My reader will remember how often
I have mentioned it as lying on the very surface of the
earth, over which we traveled. It is true that such
accounts as were spread in regard to the Gold Lake and
|: (I :Jl
HUNTING FOR GOLD
137
other places, were mere fables, but it is nevertheless a
fact that in many localities the gold was found, as if it
had been strewn over the soil like so much grain. Not
only was it found on the very surface, but also in the
crevices of the mountain side. In all these places it was
easily gathered. The bare hand, a pick and a pan, o-r a
blunt knife, would secure all there was, with no expense
to the finder, and the fortune-seeker might arrive on the
gold-fields as poor as the ])roverbial church mouse, and
leave — a second Croesus,
But there were many thousands of these fortune-hunt-
ers, and the persistency with which they carried on
their search, caused a rapid decrease in the surface gold.
A few years had considerably altered the aspect of Cali-
fornia mining. When the precious metal disappeared
from view, the gold-hunter had to unearth it somehow.
It was, as yet, to be found in the mountains and in the
river beds, and tunneling and sluicing were inaugurated
as the next modes of operation. But these undertak-
ings cost money. The man who, a few years before,
could start in poor and go home as a peer, was not "in
it" any longer as his own master. If he wished to turn
miner, he must go to work for the man who had the
money. But it was the independence and the absolute
equality in the world of chance, which Dame Fortune
bestows upon all her worshipers, that had been the chief
attraction of mining life, and had given to it its chief
characteristics, and when this equality and indepen-
dence disappeared, the inspiration of mining life became
extinct.
For the purpose of gradually surviving the change
which was creeping upon them, many of the most cour-
ageous miners ran heavily into debt. Many of them
had worked hard with but little success in irainincj the
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
expected fortunes. When it became apparent that the
gold must be souglit for in tlie rivers and rocks, they
borrowed money, generally from the store-keepers, to
whose enormous revenues they had for years contribu-
ted, and sunk the capital in mining engineering, which
unfortunately, often in addition to poverty, heaped
upon them the burden of debt. Oftentimes the river
bed did not reveal any treasures, and the dark, cold tun-
nels did not lead to any mines, while the debt increased,
and the creditors became troublesome. This kind of
mining was vastly different from the old style, and
required an amount of perseverence and tenacity, which
but few possessed, but it must be said, injustice to the
California miner of those days, that a braver, pluckier
class of men never ensxatxcd in the hazards of mininsr.
By degrees, machinery was brought into the fields;
and the expense still further increased, and where for-
merly individual lines opened the possibility for an enor-
mous fortune, now-a-days syndicates, corporations, com-
panies, operate on a scale which makes mining a ques-
tion of capital, from start to finish.
Such were the conditions in '58, when the news of
the Fraser River excitement reached California, and
found its way to the mining camps in the mountain
regions. Everything was ripe for a change. Some
anxious to get away from the cold, damp tunnels ; oth-
ers from the inqjortunities of creditors whose demands
they could not meet ; and many sighed for the relief
that independence would bring them once more. As to
myself, I was pleased with the prospect of a change. I
was heartily sick of boring into the bleak, hard moun-
tains, which seemed to swallow up all the capital we
could rake and scrape together, without yielding us any
return.
a
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■«■.
140
HUNTING FOR GOLD
!l
Just at that time a favorable opportunity presented
itself to me to sell out, and I eagerly took .advantage of it.
I then made for San Francisco, for the purpose of ship-
ping for British Columbia, and I was not surprised at
finding the city of the bay filled with miners, who had
fiocked from the diggings in all parts of California,
anxious to try their luck on the far-away river, of which
run)or had painted such glowing pictures.
I cannot sum up this portion of my account any better
than by quoting here a short article, published in the
year 1877, in a Sierra paper, by an old miner, who, tak-
ing a retrospective glance, writes as follows:
"Twenty-nine years seeking for gold! But how changed
are the same class of miners in twenty-nine years.
Then all was bright and rosy to him; no matter what ob-
stacles he met with, he would face them, and if defeated,
try again. If a tunnel had to be run in hard bedrock, and
numbers of them may be found in the highest ranges,
from two hundred to two thousand feet long, abandoned
years ago, without a sign of gold or even gravel in the
prospective; yet after expending thousands of dollars,
they gave them up, but to try again. If they fiumed
the river, and every timber and board were carried away
by the mountain floods, still he would go into the next
operation with the same hope and energy, possibly to be
wrecked once more; but what matters ? Somebody
was taking out big piles, and his turn would come by-
and-by. And thus he worked and hoped until time he-
gan to lay his fingers on him, and "Silver threads
amongst the gold," began to show themselves, yet the
prize seemed to be in the near future. Had he not
spent the best years of his life searching from the river
beds to the mountain's crown for the big strike that was
HUNTING FOR GOLD
Ul
to make him happy the rest of his days, and realize his
brightest dreams.
Disappointments liav^e often clianged his whole nature,
but he cannot see it ; he has lontj ago ceased to write to
friends and relatives ; no doubt they think he is dead,
and generally it is his wish that they think so. His
plea is, he has no good news to send, and he has not tlie
heart to write discouraicini; letters now, whea life seems
to him a blank and a failure. His energy has about
died out ; he is content to work in the primitive way of
mining, living from hand to mouth, still hoping, as it
were, against fate. His house, now a rough cabin, he
can call his own, and it generally contains all his world-
ly possessions. He has the walls of his cabin papered
with cuts from illustrated newspapers, one bunk, a sack
of Hour, some few other provisions, a cat or two, often a
small garden patch, a few drooping chickens, the inevit-
able smoking pipe and the home-made arm-chair. Soli-
tude has soured his temper, and made him morose in
the society of his fellow men, and often he shuns that of
the opposite sex. Of course there are exceptions, and
one will occasionally come across the countenance of
some of the early miners, whose face may show the lines
that time has made, but whose laugh rings as merry as
ever, and whose heart is ever fresh. But they are
silent and reserved at first, and will ever remain so.
You will find them in their solitary claims, from the
foot-hills to the highest Sierras. Talk with them of
early times; then you break through their reserve, the
eye will sparkle and the countenance light up, as they
tell of rich bars, benches and river claims that they have
worked or known of. How such and such a company
went home with piles of gold, and where the largest
chunks were found; they
can
you
142
HUNTINCJ FOR GOLD
!^'
111'-
w
Leud crosses on every range; where it enters and wliere
it breaks out; and yet, you will mostly find tlieni the
worst dead-broke class in the mine, and they — well, they
had had luck; this and that was a failure — nothing
seemed to prosper with theai; the very elements were
against them. They made quite a stake in such a place,
and sank it in prospecting another. But while some miners
were taking out gold on river bars and benches, others
were depositing it into bars of another, and to them less
profitable kind, thus anclioring themselves down for a
lifetime. A few more years and the old '49, '50-1-2 men,
will belong to the history of the past, and they may
treasure up the sentiment of Moore, the Irish poet:
"When I remember all the friends linked together,
I've seen around me fall, like leaves in wintry weather;
I feel like one who treads alone,
Some banquet hall, deserted,
Whose lights are fled,
Whose garlands dead.
And all but he departed."
"Soon the claims, the traps they contain, together
with the owners, will be swept away by the ruthless hand
of time, and the gold seekers, who almost opened a new
world, will sleep the sleep that knows no waking."
IS hi
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FR O M
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LYNCHING A BEAUTY.
It was the F'ourth of July, 1851. The little town of
Downieville was haskin*^ in the hot rays of the California
niidsuninier sun; the atmosphere was oppressive, and
the only feature in the landscape that brouufht any re-
lief to the inhabitants of the beautiful valley of the Forks
was the rippling of the waters of the river, as they met
on their way from the cool Sierras.
The national holiday had risen for the second time on
the little settlement, to witness a great change, brought
about by the march of time. The community had become
more settled in regard to general organization, and Cali-
fornia had beconc a state of the Union. But for many
years, even after that important event, the soc.^i con-
ditions in these parts partook of the characteristics of
border life. The population had increased, and there
were signs that many had come there to stay, but the
place was isolated, far from the center of law, order and
protection, and so the people took the law into their
own hands, when occcasion demanded it.
On the Fourth of July, one year ago, a man had been
flo«>i>'ed for woundino- another with a knife. The offence,
trial and punishment had followed in quick succession,
and the result had been that for many months after the
occurrence all such lawlessness and violence had been in
check. It was therefore no wonder thai the incident
had impressed itself upon the community as a precedent
worthy of note. It was not a spirit of revenge nor a
craving for extreme punishment that prompted the com-
145
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
munity to adopt rigid measures on all occasions, it was
simply a desire to enforce order and subdue any attempt
to violence, as the only means of protection in a coni-
nmnity, where so many different elements had come to-
ijfether.
One year ago most of tlie habitations were merely
canvas tents, a few cabins forming the exception. Now-
the latter had considerably multiplied, and in addition, a
few adobe houses had been built. These latter were in-
troduced by the Mexican element, which soon appeared
upon the California gold field in all their different shades
and mixtures of blood, by which they are known.
In one of these adobe houses lived a Mexican, whose
name has long been forgotten, and who would personally
never have been known save for his partner in the clay
hut, a woman, known as Juanita. Whether she was his
wife or not makes no difference in this story. She had
come there with him, and with him she had shared the
hardships of life in a mining camp. She cooked his meals,
mended his clothes, and otherwise added to his comforts,
when he had an opportunity to indulge in any, the rough
and ready life in the mountains only rarely allowing such
luxuries. But the most striking feature about Juanita
was her personality. She was of the Spanish-Mexican
mixture, and the blood of her fathers flowed fast and
warmly in her veins. She was proud, and self-possessed,
and her bearing was graceful, almost majestic.
She was in the miners parlance "well put up." Her
figure was richly developed and in strict proportions; her
features delicate, and her olive complexion lent them a
pleasing softness. Her black hair was neatly done upon
state occasions, and the lustre in her eyes shone in various
degrees, from the soft dove-like expression of a love-sick
maiden, to the fierce scowl of an infuriated lioness, accord-
\t
HUNTING FOR GOLD
147
ing to her temper, which was the only thing not well
balanced about her. Add to this, that when dressed up,
Juanita wore the picturesque costume of her native soil,
in which rich laces and bright colors blended harmon-
iously, and it may be well understood that this woman
was known all throucjh the settlement.
On this Fourth of July, of which I am about to speak,
the usual celebration took place throughout the mining
camps on the Yuba. The pick and pan lay idle, and the
miners drank as usual on such occasions, until the air
seemed hazy around them and numbers were hard to
define. The row went on all day and far into the night,
and it was towards midnio^ht when the last stracjcrlers
made for home to take a few hours' sleep before the
rising sun should call them to labor again.
Amonof those returnint; at that late hour was a man
named Cannon, who with a couple of companions had left
the dram shop to go back to camp. They were all more
or less under the influence of liquor, but Cannon was the
worst. He staggered along, every now and then stumbling
over protruding rocks, or knocking against the side of a
cabin, and just as he came in front of the house in which
the Mexican and the handsome woman lived, he ao-ain
stumbled, and before his friends could stay him, had
rolled throutrh the rickety door of the adobe hut, into
the room. It was perfectly dark, and as one of his
companions, who struck a light on the outside, perceived
what had become of his friend, he went in and raised him
from the ground.
"Come out I" he said, "there is a woman in this house:
Come along man!"
Cannon rose to his feet, and in doing so brought with
him a silk handkerchief, which he had picked up on the
floor, but he was persuaded to throw it back by^ his
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
companions, who hustled hiui out of the room, fixed the
door as well as possible, and made for home. During
the whole of the proceedings not a word had been spoken
by the inmates, and it was supposed that they had either
slept through it all, or that fear had silenced them.
It was late the following morninij^ when Cannon
awoke after a heavy sleep. He had almost forgotten
the incident of the previous evening, and when some of
his friends, in the course of conversation, related to him
the occurrence in which ho had taken such a prominent
part, he felt much concerned at having occasioned the
scene described to him, and at once resolved to oft'er a
personal apology. Cannon could speak Spanish, and
accompanied by one of his friends who had been with
him on the previous evening, he wont down to the adobe
hut. The man came to the open door, and the two
engaged in a conversation in Spanish, of which his com-
panion could not understand nmch, but it seemed to him
that the Mexican exhibited a ij^ood deal of anijjer. Pres-
ently Juanita appeared by his side, and the words grew
louder and more excited. Seemingly Cannon was
attempting to smooth matters over, and to pacify the
two. The woman appeared more excited, even, than
her male companion, and Cannon evidently increased his
exertions to arrange matters satisfactorily, opeaking in
a conciliatory tone ; but his words, whatever they were,
proved of no avail, the woman giving vent to the most
violent outburst of anger.
Suddenly she drew from the folds of her dress a knife,
and quick as lightning buried the blade to the hilt in the
body of Cannon. It was the work of a moment, and her
victim fell, with one last groan, at the feet of the beauti-
ful woman, who threw the knife, dripping with blood,
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
149
I
on the ground, and withdrew with the Mexican, into the
house.
For a moment Cannon's companion stood as if petri-
fied. He had come for the purpose of witnessing a rec-
onciUation, and instead of that, a hideous nmrder had
been committed in his presence. The warm sunshine
fell upon the prostrate body of his friend, whose blood
was oozing out upon the sand, and it seemed, for one
moment, as if everything danced before the gaze of the
bewildered miner. Then, suddenly realizing the situa-
tion, he turned away and made for the nearest (;amp
to tell what had happened.
A short time sufficed to spread the report through the
camps and claims. It seemed as if the very air had
breathed the word ''nmrder," and soon the adobe house
was surrounded by a mob of infuriated men. But,
somehow, during that brief interval, Juanita had found
time to dress herself fit for a reception. Clad in her
picturesque costume — the very best she had — with her
luxuriant hair artistically braided; adorned with rings
and armlets and spangles of precious metals; and above
all, with her own personal loveliness, she met the men
who cried for vengeance, at the door, calm, deliberate,
beautiful. Under any other circumstances, no man
could have resisted her exceeding beauty. The fierce-
ness of anger had melted from her eyes ; there was
nothing left but an expression of perfect resignation and
that haughty pride which was natural to her.
But the miners' law was "Life for Life." She was
at once seized with her companion, and the two were at
once tried by a self-established court. One man only,
had the courage to take Juanita's part, a Mr. Thayer.
He pleaded for the woman and denounced the mode of
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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procedure in dealin*»; witli her, but he was quickly silenced
by threats of violence, and even death.
"Hanof the sxreaser devilsl"
"Give them a trial!"
"No; hang them now!"
"Give them a trial first and then hanof them!"
Such were the shouts that filled the air, but the last
sui^gestion of compromise was accepted, and the trial
began, then and there. Cannon's friend testified that
there had been no intent to insult the woman, or in any
way annoy her, and that the whole affair had been
perfectly accidental, and was merely the outcome of a
drunken spree. He proved the regret the deceased had
felt upon learning of the accident, as demonstrated by his
immediate step to make reparition.
The Mexican was found innocent and at once acquitted
and the unfortunate woman put up as her defense tliat
there was an intention of orross insult, when Cannon
broke into her house and that he used offensive lanouaixe
to her when he returned to the house, and that in the
heat of passion she had committed an act for which,
under the circumstances, she was not wholly responsible.
But the jury was not to be convinced of innocence on
her part. When the case closed, they found her guilty
of nmrder in the first degree, and she was sentenced to
death. Never were the terrible words of such a sen-
tence pronounced on anyone more composed than Juanita.
She was apparently perfectly unmoved, her cheeks neither
flushed nor turned p-illid, and she seemed quite satisfied
to abide bv the verdict.
Where now the suspension bridge crosses the river,
an improvised scafi'old was hastily erected, and thither
Juanita was conducted, accompanied by a howling l)l()od-
thirsty mob, that cried for vengeance. She never broke
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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down ; nor even Hinched. "Big" Logan's services had
been called into requisition — it took a man like him to
hang a woman — but Juanita was of a different mind. It
was getting towards evening, and sunshine fell upon the
landscape; the Yuba ran its rushing course as usual; a
little bird whistled in the woods ; otherwise there
was no sound save the humming of insects and the
soughing of the breeze. But on every claim the miners'
tools lay idle, and the men had gone to feast upon the
spectacle, the horrors of which they expected to surpass
their own imaginations.
But Juanita seemed to be in perfect harmony with
the surroundinoj; nature. Calm and dignified she mount-
ed the scaffold. Her hands were unbound, her loose,
picturesque garments floating in the summer breeze, and
her beautiful face looked into those of the vicious throng
that surged around her. Then she spoke. Without a
tremor, her soft, melodious voice told the story of the
unfortunate incident that had brought her there, in the
light she viewed it. She declared that if she should
live to be again provoked in the same manner, she would
repeat her act, and when she had finished she turned to
"Big Logan" and took from his hands the fatal rope.
There was a death-like silence in the crowd, every-
body wondering what she was about to do. Logan
seemed involuntarily to surrender the rope he was sup-
posed to place around her neck, and with her own soft
hands she placed the noose in position.
"Adios SenorsT she said with a graceful wave of her
hand, and ere the astonished spectators could realize
what had happened, she had leaped from the scaffold
into eternity. The sun set in Downieville. The men,
careless of circumstances, assembled in the grog-stores,
and spoke of the heroic woman, drank, and then drift-
I
HUNTING FOR GOLD jjg
ed into mining talk. But there was a blot on the fair
r: '.V"'u, '"'''''' '" *""'' y-- *° --h out-
c! if *r ""'' ^'^'^ ^*'''"^'* *he early history o
Cahfornia, and especially of the mining camps IZ
men a, d women grew „p who were born a'nd raiLd h
dunng the crude age of the early days.
Ihen the dross and the gold became separated ; then
ntemgence mdustry and ingenuity were allowed ful
aSiet If T- Tr'" ^""'^™*'™' ^"*^' '"^^ ^^^rfing
Ca if! I Tu ^T ' '"' ""'' '^' P^^t' -"d raised
Cahforma to the level of Christian civilization
I
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THE BLOODY CODE.
Durinor the year 1855 tliore came to the State of Cali-
fornia a lady by the name of Miss Sarah Pellet, She
was young, handsome, possessed of more than ordinary
intelligence, and of a kindly disposition, which caused
her to be loved by all who came in personal contact with
her.
Miss Pellet had a mission to fulfill. She was a tem-
perance lecturer and belonged to the same school of lady-
reformers as did Lucy Stone Blackwell, Antoinette
Brown and others of their contemporaries. In this con-
nection the name of Sarah Pellet still lives. Whatever
may be the individual opinion of the temperance reform
movement, there can be no doubt that those who have
engaged in it with honesty of purpose, have done much
to advance the social condition of men at certain periods
and under certain conditions. If this important question
were held aloof from church and politics alike, it would,
no doubt, as a purely social proposition, attract more
attention, and awaken more sympathy, than it does under
circumstances where it appears to act as a cloak, hiding
either ecclesiastical propaganda or political schemes. It
is this latter fact which has always contributed to the
sense of suspicion with whi^h the apostles have been
viewed, and when Miss Pellet began her crusade in Cali-
fornia, she was made the target for many scurrilous re-
marks from a large portion of the press, which mercilessly
attacked her, imputing to her motives which, indeed,
were far from her pure and generous mind.
IM
HUNTING FOR GOLD
155
At that time Calvin B, McDonald was conducting the
"Sierra Citizen" at Downieville,and he took it upon him-
self to champion the fair lecturer through her diflficul-
ties with the opposing press. Mr. McDonald is now
well known as a writer of force and brilliancy, and he
was then laying the foundation for the fame which in
after years made his name famihar to most newspaper
readers in California. His articles not lorn? remained
unread by Miss Pellet, and she determined to pay
Downieville a visit and take advantage of the friendship
proffered her through the "Sierra Citizen."
The advent of Miss Pellet in the little mining; town
was fraught with remarkable results. The reader, who
has followed me through the preceding pages, is aware
that there was a vast field for labor in the cause of tem-
perance, and certainly some need of a reform of this
kind. The young lecturer lost no time in going to
work, and, aided by her editor friend, soon succeeded in
establishino- a laryfe and flourishing; division of the Sons
of Temperance. Nearly all the reputable young men
joined the movement. As is often the case, people went
from one extreme to the other, and for some time total
abstinence was looked upon as the only correct thing
in the very place where, shortly before, the man who
could not drink with the rest, had been considered a
crank or a suspicious character. The Fourth of July
was drawing near, and a temperance demonstration was
projected and a couimittee set to work to arrange tlie
programme.
It seems strano-e that the most thrillinsjf incidents
that took place in the early days of Downieville, should,
in some way, be connected with a Fourth of July cele-
bration. I have already had occasion to mention two,
in which drinking bouts were followed by sanguinary
15(5
HUNTING FOR GOLD
m
11
results, but it seeins still more curious that this celebra-
tion, which was not attended by any indulgence in strong
liquors, should bo the cause of the tragedy I am now
about to relate.
The committee
on programme hud
quite a task to per-
form in arranuinir
matters. 1 1 w a s
the desire of many
that Miss Pellet
should be asked to
deliver the oration,
and aixain there
were many others
who were oppposed
to women orators.
The latter faction
was principally in-
fluenced by a young
gentleman named
Robert Tevis, of
whom I must say a
few words before
proceeding. Mr,
Tevis was a broth-
er of Lloyd Tevis,
well known in Cal-
ifornia to-day. He
coMiNo OVER THE MOUNTAINS. was auxious to Ob-
tain a seat in Congress, and for that purpose had lately
come to Downieville to make himself popular with the
people in the district. He had joined the Sons of Tem-
perance, and was doing his best to make friends, although
HUNTING FOR GOLD
157
he lacked personal magnetism, and that power of making
himself popular, which is of great advantage to all men
entering the political arena.
Nevertheless, Tevis was well thought of. He came
of a Kentucky family and exhibited all that polish of
manner and speech, characteristic of southern gentle-
men. He was of pleasing appearance, and his ideas of
chivalry and honor were in strict accordance with the
orthodox code of the community in which he was
brought up. He was fond of sports; was an excellent
marksman, and without being brilliant, possessed more
than average intelligence. But his temperament was
highly nervous and excitable, his feelings were easily
provoked and, when wounded, he would take the offence
deeply to heart.
Anxious to make a favorable impression upon the
people, whose support he was soliciting, Mr. Tevis fought
hard to be made orator of the day, and hence the diffi-
culties of the committee. Ultimately a compromise was
brought about. It was decided that Miss Pellet should
be invited to deliver the oration, while Robert Tevis was
appointed to read the Declaration of Independence, and
was granted permission to make some a])propriate remarks
on the illustrious document.
There were probably 3,000 people in Downieville at that
time and there was no lack of loyalty among them. The
throna: that leathered to listen to the oration was a laro;e
one and included nearly every one in town. The cele-
bration began with a salute from all the rifles, shotguns,
pistols, and everything else that would go off with a bang,
after which the primitive brass band played a few patriotic
airs as an introduction to the more serious features of
the programme.
Then Mr. Tevis read the Declaration. As soon as he
158
HUNTINC. KOK (iOM)
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liatl fiiiisliod ho took mlvantai^e of tlie j)rivile!jfc «jfrante<I
liiiii by tlie coiiuuittuo, and addros.sed the luc'ctiiiin' on the
importance of the Constitution; on national issues and
on anything and everytiiing else that occurred to his mind
as a means of making himself heard and impressing him-
self upon the public. He went on speaking, ap[)arently
without any consideration of the time he was occupying
and annoyance ho was causing, until at last the Sons of
Temperance, who were at the head of the celebration,
took oflence at his persistency, and determined to silence
him. Accordinuly the order was given for more firinix,
and soon the hills around echoed with a thunderinix noise
of exploding powder, which continued, until Mr. Tevis
found it impossible to make himself heard any more, and
sat down vvith evident signs of an<rer, while the fair
orator of the day stepped to the front, and silence having
now been restored, delivered her address, which was
received with much enthusiasm. The event caused a
great deal of comment unfavorable to the ambitious can-
didate for Congress and rather retarded than furthered
his chances.
The Hon. Chas. Lippencott was at that time State
Senator from Yuba County. He was the son of a clergy-
man in Illinois, and a gentleman of exemplary habits.
He was an excellent writer, possessed of a highly culti-
vated mind and a keen sense of the humorous. There
was no Democratic paper in Downieville then, but the
Democrats had made an arrangement with the proprie-
tor of the "Sierra Citizen" to run a few columns in that
paper, and Lippencott had been appointed editor of
them, and was solely responsible for their contents.
The ludicrous position in which young Tevis had
placed himself at the Fourth of July celebration, had so
much impressed the Senator that he could not resist
HUNTING FOR GOLD
159
tlie teinptatioti to give hiiu a roasting in liis part of the
papor, and when the " Citizen" made its apj)earance, the
aspiring poHtieian was hauled over coals in a manner far
from complimentary to him.
The next day Tevis appeared in the editorial room
of the "Citizen" and demanded the publication of a card,
which pronounced the author of Lii)pencott's article "a
liar and a slanderer." He was beside himself with ra«»'e:
his cheeks were palid, his voice shook with emotion, and
he would not listen to argument. Mr. McDonald, who
knew Lippencott well and was aware of his wonderfnl
skill with tire-arms, advised Tevis to let matters drop.
He told him that the inevitable consetjuence of such
publication would be a challenge, and that bloodshed
would follow. The young Kentuckian said that he was
anxious to fight; his honor had been assailed, and only
a duel could satisfy him. If the card were not pub-
lished, he would consider it an act of hostility to him-
self. He had been held up to public ridicule, and want-
ed revenge. He would fight in the streets or anywhere
else, but there had to be a fisj^ht somewhere, as he was
determined to satisfy honor. So the card was pub-
lished, and immediately Lippencott sent a challenge,
which was promptly accepted.
Both men were Democrats and Odd Fellows, and
some of the leading Democrats at once took steps to
settle the matter amicablv, but soon realized that their
endeavors were in vain. The Odd Fellows took more
pains. Neither of the two antagonists belonged to the
local lodge, but nevertheless, a meeting w^as called at
once, and every effort made to settle the difficulty. The
brethren remained in session all through the night, and
until far into the following day, and several times it
looked as if they might succeed, but whenever a settle-
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ment of the affair appeared probable, some of thein who
wanted the excitement of the duel, interfered in such a
manner as to prevent any pacific arrangement, and about
noon the following day, the meeting broke up without
havinof attained the desired result.
Besides the mental attainments which Lippencott
possessed, he was also an excellent woodsman. He
had spent some time in bear hunting and killing other
game, and was a dead-sure shot. He was a small, heavy-
set man, with light hair, piercing black eyes, deliberate
and resolute in his speech, and gave one the impression
of steadiness and self-possession. But he was of a much
gentler nature than his adversary. He declared, several
times, that he had no wish to kill a man with whom
he had never even spoken, and that he would rather
avoid a fight, but the nature of the public insult com-
pelled him to send the challenge.
Tevis was given the choice of weapons, and he select-
ed double-barreled shotguns carrying ounce balls, ui'.con-
scious of the fact, that with no weapon was his adver-
sary more familiar. The distance agreed upon was forty
yards, and each man in practicing, broke a bottle at the
first shot.
While the Odd Fellows were yet deliberating and try-
ing to use their iniiuence in the cause • f humanity, the
two combatants and their seconds left town on the quiet.
The public did not know whither they had gone, but
the Sheriff went in pursuit to prevent the fight. The
ground selected for the fatal encounter, was situated
some six miles from town. It was a fiat up in the
Sierras, surrounded by tall firs that cast their sombre
shadows over the place; but no sooner had the party
reached it than the Sherifl"s posse was seen on a dis-
tant eminence, and it was deemed advisable to move
HUNTIN(i FOR GOLD
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into an adjoining county, so as to bebeyond the jurisdic-
tion ot'tlie pursuing officers. Consequently, they crossed
the border and selected anovher place suitable for their
purpose.
It was towards evening when they arrived there.
The lofty fir trees reared their mighty stems around the
place, looking like so many watchmen, placed there to
guard the unbroken silence that prevailed. Not a bird
sang its ditty in these woods; not a sound was heard
outside the heavy breathing of the men, as they made
their way up the hill to the place of meeting. The light
of the waning day was still bright, although no sun ray
lighted up the scene, which was, to say the least, sepul-
chral in its aspect. No spot could be found perfectly
level, and in drawing for position, the higher ground
fell to the lot of Tevis. The distance was measured and
the two men took position ready for their deadly work.
Both appeared perfectly composed, and each one kept
his eyes steadily on his adversary, as he assumed his place.
It was then that Lippencott noticed that Tevis' second, in
parting with him, pointed to his own breast, as indicating
where to aim, and he took the hint to himself. Had he
not been persuaded already that Tevis was a master shot
he might have satisfied himself with infiicting upon his
antagonist a slight wound, but his experience and the
motion he had just observed, persuaded him that this
was to be a fight for life.
The combatants were ready and the signal given.
Both guns cracked simultaneously, and while the echo
repeated the tale of the deed again and again throughout
the silent forest, Robert Tevis sank without a groan to
the ground with ^ bullet through the heart, while a lock
of hair fiew from Lippencott's head like feathers from a
wounded bird. The fallen man had not made the nee-
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essary allowance for the incline ot the ground, and his
murderous lead had passed directly over his adversary's
left shoulder, grazing his face.
The survivor and his friend took their departure, and
the former tied to Nevada. In the yatherin*'' twiliij^ht
the companions of the dead man buried the body of their
friend in this lonely spot, and made their way to Downie-
ville to report the tragedy. Next day the body was re-
moved to town and interred in the hill-side cemetery.
The funeral was lani^e and demonstrative, and a i^reat
deal of sympathy was expressed for the deceased. Un-
doubtedly the whole affair had been pro])erly conducted
throuo-hout with the utmost fairness, but there were still
many who looked upon Tevis as the victim of that reck-
less spirit which characterized early life in California,
and too often caused the unnecessarv sheddinu' of blood.
Thus ended another quarrel brought about through a
Fourth of July celebration in Dowaieville, but I feel called
upon, before closing this, to give a brief account of the
two principal survivors of this episode, as far as I have
been able to follow them afterwards.
After awhile Lippencott returirjd to Downicvillc, but
he felt himself like another Ishmael. He was a sensi-
tive man, and it seemed to him that old friends did not
shake his hand with the wonted warmth, and acquaint-
ances reluctantly recognized him. Miss Pellet, who
reixarded herself as the innocent cause of all the trouble,
never forsook him during this trying period. She exerted
all her personal influence to reconcile public opinion with
the man who had merely defended himself when chal-
lenofed, and the brave stand she took in the matter could
not help exciting much admiration for her. When she
ultimately left Downieville, her departure was much re-
gretted, and the cold-water brigade dwindled down for
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want of a leader, and the Sons of Temperance became an
order of the past.
There seemed to be a strani^e fatality hoverin^^ about
this woman, which soon after once more brou<>"ht destruc-
tion m her path. She went to Oreijfon, and while there
a settlor undertook to pilot her through the wilderness,
but when the guide returned to his home he found that
the Indians had taken advantage of his absence, nmrdered
his wife and children, and burnt his home. Miss Pellet
afterwards returned East across the idains, and the last I
heard of her was that she was attending a woman sutf-
rage convention at Syracuse, New York, somewhere
about the 3'ear 1S70.
Mr. Lippencott was a strong supporter and warm
friend of the late Senator Broderick, who was shot down
in the famous duel with Judge Terry, the latter's tragic
end forming the closing chapter of an eventful life, in
which the reckless spirit of a border community had
been nurtured and developed. Senator Broderick re-
garded Lippencott as his ablest advocate and partisan,
and indeed the two men were placed in the same position
durinu: their lifetime — ^that of havinir to accei)t the inev-
itable and submit to the code that the community, the
age, and the custom prescribed for them. Senator Lip-
pencott was an honorable man, and his career in Califor-
nia distinguished him as such. His unfortunate entan-
glement in the duel resulted simply from his position,
and the prevailing spirit of border life, for at that time
a politician who would suffer himself to be called "a liar
and a slanderer," without prompt resentment, would have
been considered disgraced by most of his fellow-citizens.
After Mr. Lippencott had finished his term in the
State Senate, he returned to his home in Illinois, to find
his aged father dying, and it has been said that the report
I
HUNTING FOR GOLD
165
of liis sou's connection witli the fatal duel, broke the old
man's lieart.
When the war broke out, J^ip[)encott'w undaunted
spirit led him into a new field of activit}'. He joined the
Union Army, and distinguished himself in battle on
various occasions. He ultimately became a Brigadier
General, and after the war, rose to ini[)ortant civil offices,
becoming Secretary of State of Illinois, which office he
held for several terms, proving- himself, throughout, a
man of great physical and mental capacity — a true soldier
and useful citizen.
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RIVALRY AND DEATH.
One of the most exciting events, which took place in
Downieville in tiie early day.s, occurred in the fall of '55,
and is remembered by tlie encounter between Dave But-
ler and a miner named Moti'att.
Butler was a ^ambler and a bullv, and Moffatt was a
man whose uncontrolablo temper had on many occasions
led him to the verge of disaster. Only a few days before
the occurence took place, which suddenly terminated his
career, Moffatt had undertaken to move the stakes of a
claim, belonging to, and worked by Philo Haven, and
when the latter remonstrated with him, he had struck
Haven violently between the eyes. On that occasion
Haven said to him: "Moffatc, you wont live another
ten days." There was no intent on Haven's part to take
the life of Moffatt, but he was ])rompted to speak as he
did, through his conviction that the man's violent tem-
per would soon run him into serious trouble, and the fol-
lowing will show how singularly the phrophecy was
fulfilled.
In those days a good many traveling shows, principally
dramatic and operatic, visited Downieville. The prima
donnas were Sarah Bernhardts or Mrs. Langtrys on a
small scale — the glitter of gold had more to do with
their soul's contentment, than the inspiration of the arts
they professed to practice. They allowed the poor man
to look at them from the auditorium and the rich men
to court their favors, green room fashion, giving them a
fatir race in the competition, as the bids gradually rose,
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huntinct fok gold
167
The reward of the fortunate ones generally consisted of
a recollection of bewitching smiles, and as many ounces
of gold dust as they had been in a position to put up.
Among the stars which occasionally rose upon Downie-
ville, was a Mrs. Kobb, who had become quite famous
for her beauty alike of face and voice, and who is [)rob-
ably better remembered by lier maiden name as Marian
Goodenow. Her presence was the signal for so many
aspirations among a certain class of the miners, and
everybody who had any gold to spare, was willing
to sacrifice on the alter of worship in the race for this
sweet singer's preference.
Among those who more in particular lay siege to the
woman's, good graces, were Butler and Moffat. What
means the former adopted to gain this point, is not
exactly known, but it appears that he left his rival
under the impression that he had outshone him with
the fair Marian.
Motfat, indeed, had not been idle. He had exhibited
all the ingenuity of a Californian miner for "catching,"
and to that end had fired from the muzzle of his shot-
gun something like six hundred dollars worth of gold
dust into one corner of his claim — "saltino- it," as it was
called. Then he had conducted the object of his tem-
porary worship to the claim, had told her to dig and
helped her to pan, and in a very brief space of time the
charming songstress had carried from the claim in a ba^r
some thirty-six ounces of gold, believing it, or at least
pretending to believe it, one of the richest mines on the
field.
It was the recollection of these thirty-six ounces of
gold, which did not come into harmony with an inward
suspicion, that after all, he had been outdone by Butler.
A few days after the departure of jhe company
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MoM'ul was staiidiiin' in the bar-room of Craycroft's
saloon, when IJutlcr untorcd. "There conies tliat
.>('i(tunclrel Butler, ' said Mofiat, aeeonipanying his ex-
pression with a terrible oath. But these wi'rt' liis last
words in this world, as a well man, foi' l^utler heariiiij;
the expression, drew (piickly from his l)elt a revolver,
and sent the burly miner to the tloor with a bullet in
his breast. Mottat did not die instantly, but was carried
into a room behind the bar, where he lay lor sevi'ral
hours before he expired.
Meanwliile, the wildest excitement prevailed. Butler
Hed from the scene during the first confusion and made
out of town under cover of darkness and aided by the
ijcamblers who stood in with liini. But as the news
si)read, an<»rv miners massed at the corners and in the
open plaza, and then a wild })ursuit began. That niglit
tlie hills, up and (h)wn the Forks, were scoured higli and
low, and liad Butler been cauo'lit, he would not have
lived to recognize his captoi's: but he succeeded in mak-
ing his escape, and the se([uel of the atlair was not en-
acted until several years afterwards.
The miners, seeing that their eHorts to capture the
nmrderer had been frustrated, turned in anger upon
those who had aided and abetted him in his escape, and
the cry arose that the gamblers nmst go. And, indeed,
so summarily were these men dealt with that within a
few days the whole fraternity had ((uit the scene of ac-
tivity in Downieville, with the exception of old "Uncle
Jimmie," of wliom I have previously spoken. Uncle
Jinnnie had, at one time, been a baptist preacher, and
had merely changed his i)lane for administering' to his
fellow-men, I always regarded him as a villain of the
blackest dye, but his previous connection with the cloth
saved him on this occasion.
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170
HUNTING FOR GOLD
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Among tnosc, who took tho most active part in tliese
proceedings, was Calvin B. McDonald, the editor of the
"Sierra Citizen." It was he, who wrote an article
wiiich called the miners together in the Plaza, and in
consequence of which it was determined to expel the
Lrambleio from the town. McDonald was carried over
the heads of the excited miners into the middle of the
plazv where he made a rousing speech, in the course of
w' he urged the expulsion of the gamblers. In
rec r^nition of his action the miners raised a subscription,
gave him a champagne supper and presented him with a
$300 watch. It was a great feast and many enthusiastic
speeches were made on the occasion. The watch was
afterwards deposited with Ladd and Reese, who ran a
bank in Downieville, and one hundred dollars borrowed
on it, but. when some years after the little mountain
town was laid in ashes, the bank burnt up, and the
watch disappeared in a process of cremation.
A strange thing happened in regard to Moffat lying
mortally wounded on a lounge at the back of Craycroft's
saloon; the dying man sent for Haven. When the
latter walked in, Moffat disclosed the wound in his
breast, and Haven merely said : ''What have you got in
there— lead?"
"That is what !" ejaculated the wounded man.
'You were right the other day, when you told me
that I would not live another ten days; I know it — I
am going,"
Dave Butler, the nmrderer, succeeded in getting out
of the country, but the awful avenger followed him, and
ultimately tracked him to his lair. His victim had been
a Free Mason, and it was said that, with unceasing zeal,
the Masons pursued him until they found him in Oregon,
two years after, and brought him to justice. A constable
HUNTING FOR GOLD
171
was sent up tor him, and the two came down on a small
coastinjr si-hooner. One evenin^r the officer took him on
deck for an airinij, and after that the officer was never
seen. It is supposed that Butler threw him overboard,
althoUjLrh he strenuously asserted that he didnotknovv
what hud become of him. But Butler did not evade his
punishment. He was taken to Downieville, tried and
convicted, and expired at one end of a stroiii,' rope.
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A FOKTY-N^INMai'S YARNS.
I liavo proviously ret'eiTi'd to Mr. ]^hilo Haven,
and will now relate a few ot" the rt nienibrance.s he
reealls to my mind, as we converse together, of the
lono;-i4i»'o, and conjure U[> old, familiar scenes. My friend,
whom I met first in '40, is two years my senior, and
is, mentally and })hysically, well preserved. He is tall,
bony, spare, and has a facial expression varyino- from
stern determination to o-eniai kindliness, with interven-
in*r shades of temperament; on the whole, pretty well
denoting the man as he is.
We were talkin*'- over old scences and incidents that
we both remembered, when, siuldenl}-, Philo says, with
a lauL'h: ''1 never saw anvthinu: so absolutely ridiculous
as one scene that recurs to my mind just now. It hap-
pened up in the mountains, about the Yul)a, and made
me laugh at the time, and often after, till my sides fair-
Iv ached. I was travelino- a short distance behind a
Yankee who was drivinix his mule before him. The
animal was heavily laden, and carried, among other
things, a long-handled shovel which was packed so as to
project upward and outward considerably, on the right
side.
''Gradually the trail became more difficult to trav-
el. It wound around the mountain, and ultimately led
us across a ledge for a short distance. The jjath was
narrow. On the right the rocks rose almost perpendic-
ularly, and on the left- was a sheer precipice of some
thirty or forty feet, before our gaze met the sloping
172
HUNTINd FOR HOLD
173
side of tlic iiioiintjiiii wliicli cxtciulocl its ruj^'L.^od sidr to
tlu; rlviT l)(']()\v. Of cour.se wc wore used to tnivolini:
over such thoroiii.di lares, and 1 would, |»rol)al)ly, iiev»r
liave reniend)ered this partieuhir trij), luid it not heeii
for a su<lden luiid in the patli, wliieli oeeurred just as
we were ti'avi^liii;^" across tlu; oV(;rliaM<j;iiiij;" k'di^e.
The niuh', whicli led tlu; procession, was the first to
turn. It was just at the corner, when, owiuLi^ to the
general shakinj;' of the pack, the top end of the lon«;-
handled shovel struck a protrudinu;' howlder with an ctt'ect
which fairly took us all hy surprise. The force of the
collision was so jjfreat as to send the ooor animal oH' its
feet, and over the verjjfe of the ledo-e; and the Yankee
saw his i)ack «'ettinu' down liill at a rate entirelv uuex-
pected. But the funny feature of the occurence was
the manner in which he acted when he saw the animal
tlashing like a bird through space. With hoth arms
akimho, and looking at the animal with an expression of
utter amazement, lie yelled with a few strong oaths inter-
spersed : "Ho gray I Ho-gray I Ho gray 1" The idea of
a man calliuij: to a nmle, whicli is turning sommersaults
in mid-air, for the purpose of halting it in its mad career,
a[)peared to me so ludicrous, that I smile wMiencvcr I
think of it.
In rei>ard tt) the Indians, knowing the value of ofold
long before Europeans began to look for it, Mr. Haven
not only bears me out in my ideas, previously expressed,
but relates that he has seen Indian scjuaws panning
sjfold in Imskets made of wicker work, and covered within
with a layer of pitch. In connection with this Mr.
Haven tells the followinL*" amusimj;: storv : ''I wasca" . ed
on the Yuba at one time with a small party, prospecLmg.
We had been particularly fortunate, and our provisions
were beginning to run short, but I hung on in hopes of
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174
HUNTING FOR GOLD
strikin<( soinething. We woro liviui;- cliiefl}^ on jerked
venison, Imt a good deal of it had gone bad and was un-
fit for eating. In those days a man who afterwards
became well known in Downieville, was in the habit of
following the camps and pi-^king uj^ such provisions as
the miners had discarded, selling the same to the
Indians for gold lumps or dust. This man was at our
camp at the time, and I saw him several times dealing
with an old Indian who came down with his son, and
always brought some very fine specimens of lumpy gold.
"I decided to find out, from the redskin, where he
obtained the lumps, and one day calk>d liim to me.
'See here,' I said, ' if you will point with your finger
in the direction where you find that gold, I will give
you and your boy all you can eat rifiht now.' My men
began to remonstrate. They knew that tlie limit of our
supplies was a magnitude nuich more easily defined than
the appetite of the two Indians, but I was determined,
and I repeated my request.
"The Indian looked at me with a hungry expression.
He pointed with one finger to the base of his stomach,
then moved the same member of his anatomy slowly up
the front of his body, until he came to his mouth, which
he opened wide and laid his finger in it cross ways.
'"That nmch .'" he (jueried.
"'Yes,' I said, 'I will fill you botli right up to there.'
"'All right;' said the Indian, and tlie bargain was con-
cluded. I started in the manner of a taxidermist to
stuff them, and fiap-jacks, venison, onions, hard biscuits,
tea and whatever else was at hand, disap[)eared almost
as <|uickly as it was placed before them. After having
thoroughly gorged themselves, and considerably dimin-
ished our atorcF they botli arose, evidently satisfied.
"'Are you all right ? ' I asked.
HUNTING FOR GOLD
175
"'All right; said the father.
"'Now,' I said, 'I liave fulfilled my J>art of the bar-
gain, it is your turn.'
"The old man looked at his son, to whom he spoke a
few words, i>ivini; him, at the same time, a meanin«:
glanee, which I afterwards was able to translate, and
then placed himself with liis face towards a high bluff
that arose just in front of us. He seized the index
finijfer of his left hand between the index finirer and
thumb of his right hand, and holding it in the manner
of a gun, pointed it towards the bluff, looking straight
at it all the time.
"'You say, captain !' ue said after a pause, meaning
that he wanted me to repeat my re(|uest.
'^'Now,' I said, *3'ou point with that finger, in the
direction where you find those lumps of gold.'
"'AH right !' said the Indian, and without raising his
eyes from his finger, or changing his position, he slowly
turned around until he had resumed his former attitude
— facinij: the bluff.
"I was so much impressed with the streak of humor
in the cunning device on the part of the Indian, which
left me a fool on my own proposition, that I laughed
heartily as I realized how I had been sold, notwithstand-
insf the fact that niv nieii looked ylum and aniiry. In
fact, I laughed until the tears rolletl down mj' cheeks,
and the Indian, when I had reco. v led myself, turned to
me and said: 'I hke you; you good man. You no get
mad. Good man no net mad; bad man ofet mad.'
He then told me that on the followinij morning he
would send another son to me. I should give him some
flour, and he would conduct me to the place where the
gold was. In this respect he kept faith with me, but
that expedition does not belong; to the story I wanted to
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tell, wliicli nil Tilv roiicrriis llif Iii)lia,ii iind his iiitcr-
|tr'ctiitJoii of M, (•(iiitriict, wliicli wniild, n«» douUt, liii\ <!
imz/.l<'(l ii, ' I Miili(lcl|»lii;i lawyrf' in ronr-L
"I liii\<; nicnt/ioncil tiif so ••alliil '( lold I>;ikc' (ixcit.r-
ni'^nt,, wliii-li \\;is ciinsrd hy ( ';i.|il,;dn St.oddjtrd, who
dffl;ir'<'<| \]>-'.i h<; h;i(l hrcii ;i,t, i,hc wondcr'Tnl L'd<c, iind
sho\v<'d wh:d, he ;dic'^<'d lo he ji, wound, on his h"^-, inlhi'l,-
• ■d hy th<' Indians. ( !;i|)l.;iin Stodd.'ird s ri'j)ort, (•;inscd (ho
w ihh'sli (■xcit-cnicnl. for ;i wliih', ;i,nd he iih,ini;»,l.cly under
took t,o <'in(h! ;t, p.irlA' <»! miners to the l;ikf whoic tho
(;d»uh;US U"i';isUn'S were sU|i|)OS<'(l 1,0 he. Tlic .slll.'lll |t;i|-
U' tJial; set out; ("or t,hi' hike, '^radnidly incrcjiscd in nuin
i)rcs, until at, hist,, scxcral t.hou-and nun nia(h' towards
t,h<' L;oal of tJioir' ant,irij»;i.t ions, witli ;is rci\cnt,a dcsir'o
t,o roarh it; as oxer' inspir'od tho .Itw.sot" ohi, ni loolviu'^
for tJic |)K»nHsi'd kind.
In ro'^ai'd t,o t;his cNpi'dit ion, Mr. Ilason t;rns t,lic I'o!
h)win'4 st,or\', which tJirows sonio li'jht, upon tin' nia,t,t,cr:
"I was t,r'a vchnodN rr t.iic mount, auis witJi a, compan-
ion, on a. |ir'os|i.'ct,inL;' t.oiir, whou one o\cnin'^' wo niado
our- camit at thi' hasc of a \\\'^\i hilk I ascended tjie hill
t,() taki; a look o\cr' tin; sur'i'oundiii'^ countj'y, and t,o my
uliUftst sur|)r'ise, found the \;*lley ali\c witli at; hast;
t.lir<'i! thousand people, who were, evidently, c.nnpeij
tJiere temporarily, (^'allin^- my j)artner', we. descendi d
t(>iL,n'ther, a,nd joitK'd the throng;'. I found tliere;i man
with wdiom I had cr'ossed the plains, and he pointed dut,
to me (Japtain Stoddard, a I Miiladelphia '^•entleman, who
liad ollered to conduct this cr'owd to mw di'^'^iuLj's at,
"(«oId liake," when', he iia<i asHiiPMl them, wealth untold
(•(»ui<l 1><^ l"oUM«l.
"For several <lays we traveled a,lon;j;, (Japt^jun St^od-
dard ■LTuidin^' oiii' <-our'se, and at last, u a; j-ame u])on a
lake uesthul amoii).^ '*''\y iiiountains.
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"'Tliiit is iti' said Jrtcddard. 'You see now tJic lake
\vith the l>lu(! water, wliidi I liave des(!ril)ed; tlic tlireo
peaks, and the Unj^ yoiidci', wliere I (;ainpe(L There arc
tons of gold there,'
•'About four hundred men at onee started, on a run,
for the sup[)oscd 1ol,s l)ut it was found liard to gcit at,
and wlien ultiniattdy r(!uelied by a ('irouit«)US route, was
found to he a l)ow]der shajxul soniewliat like a lo<j^, hut
not a sit^n of *;'old near it.
"Meanwhile, tlu; I'cst were deseendin*^ the sIojh!, head-
ed by Colonel X and ('aptain Stoddard. •You say
there are tliree jxjaksf said the Cohjiud 'but I s(!e
five.'
' Stoddard looked in the direetion, where in rt;auty five
peaks towered aloft, and then, i^lancini;; at the; lak(3 below,
he turned deadly pule.
'What ails you ?' asked Ids companion.
'When I i^'et down there.' e.xclainied Stoddard,
evidently i^reatly distressed. 'I sliall not be abb; to see
tlie ])eaks — then how (;an I find the ^'old V
"Within an hour it had become evident to severa.
thousand men, that tluiy rt^presented as many fools.
Not a traee of gold was found, and expectations, hopes,
anticipations had suddenly turned to anger and a thirst
for revenge of the most intense nature. 'Hang liim I'
'I have a rope that will hold him 1' 'Here's a branch
that will carry him !' 'String him uj) !' Sucli were
the exclamations mingled with imprecations that filled
the air for a few moments, as hundreds of men made 'x
rusli in search of the Captain.
Tlie strange conduct of the latter, and his incoherent
talk, as we a{)proached the place, had persuaded Colonel
X , myself and a few others that the; man was crazy,
or at least, not in his right senses. So, when the mob
HUNTING FOR GOLD
170
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approached to seek vengeance oi) tlie unfortunate man,
we drew our revolvers and told them that so long as we
were al>le to defend him, no one iii that crowd would l)e
allowed to hurt a crazy man. That settled it, and
although tlu! poor fellow was made the target for a good
deal of abuse, after this no further attempt was made to
kill him.
While I was encamped with him 1 met a certain
John F. , of Philadelpl\ia, with whom I had had
previous dealings. I told him of the Captain, who also
claimed to hail from the Quaker City. "I know him,"
said John. "The man is crazy. He is the son of an
English lord, and was sent to Am(;rica to be ke[)t out of
the way. Ho stayed for some time at my father's house,
and a certain sum of money was paid for his keeping."
After awhile Stoddard came in and apparently corrob-
orated John in some of what he had been saying.
After awhile the young Phiiadelphian said : "You say
you were wounded by some of the Indians, show me the
J)
scar.
Stoddard uncovered that purt of his leg where the
mark was, which he alleged was the result of an arrow
wound. "That," said John, pointing to the scar, "is the
result of a wound received from a fall he received in
Philadelphia city some years ago, at the same time
breakingc three ribs."
I cannot vouch for the correctness of John's statement
but at all events it helped to shield the poor Captain
against the revengeful s[)irit of many of the miners,
whose anger it took sometime to cool down. After
awhile Stoddard joined Major Downie's camp, where he
found protection against any attempts to annoy him.
I ,M '
H-
FROM OBSCURITY TO FAME.
There are two persons wlioiii I remeinber from tlie
early days of Downieville, whose separate Hves after-
wards took them out of the hum-drum, jjfeiieral routine
of our ordinary existence, and led them into the paths
of strange adventures and uncxpectixl circumstances. I
allude to Colonel Daniel E. Hunoerford, and his dauiih-
ter, Mrs. Louisa Mackev, wife of the California Bonan-
za Kino-.
Daniel E. Hungerford was born in the State of New
York, in the year 1812. During that year, his father
fought against the British, and his grandfather, Dan-
iel Hungerford, fought in the revolution. The family,
wliich settled in America as early as 1628, is of old
Englisli extraction, and can trace its ancestors as far
back as 1325, during the reign of Edward II, when Sir
Robert Huno'erford was Knioht of Shire of Wilt. Far-
leigh castle, in Somersetshire, was for centuries, the
seat of the Hunuferfords, most of whom distino-uished
themselves as soldiers.
It was, then, an inherited military spirit which drove
Daniel Hungerford to the field of battle when the Mexi-
can war broke out, notwithstanding that lie had a young
wife and family to leave behind. The official reports of
that war frequently mention the name of Hungerford
in connection with "personal" valor," and indeed, he
proved himself a man of extraordinary metal.
After the war, he came to California. In July 'A\) he
arrived in San Francisco, having made a most adventurous
trip overland from San Jose del Cabo, and early in '50
180
HUNTIN(i FOK GOLD
Iftl
■X'i.
the youiii^ julvonturer appeaiLMl on the Yuba, In 'ol lie
.settK'd ill Downieville, and went into |)artnershi[) with
l)i. C. D. Aiken, with whom lie contluetedadru!>l>uisne.s.s
for several years, meanwhile bringing his family out
from the East. He organized the "Sierra Guards" and
laid the commission of Major, and was, in '55, presented
with a magnificent sword, bearing the inscription:
"Major Daniel E. Hungerford, from the Sierra
Guards, January 8 1855. Vera Cruz, Cerro (Jordo,
Contreras, Chapultepec, Gariten de Belen. Our vol-
unteers were there."
But Major Hungerford also had an opportunity to
distinguish himself as a soldier during that period.
After the Ormsby massacre he led the troops, organized
in Xevada, against the Indians in the Washoe war,
operating in conjunction with Colonel Jack Hayes and
Captain Creed Haymond, and to Hungerford is accorded
the honor of the Indians' defeat. He also headed the
first navioation of Pvramid liake. With him was a
■party of thirteen, nearly ail Downieville men, and on
the island, at the north end of the lake, they l)uried a
bottle, containing an account of the ex[)editi(»n.
The desire for adventure afterwards took Huno'crford
through part of the civil war, when he became a Colonel,
and afterwards led him into a romantic expedition to
Mexico, which was fufl of interesting details and at one
time iiearl}'' brought him into serious trouble.
After having for some years engaged in railroad
speculations in Texas, and other enterprises, he retired
from active life and now resides at the Villa Ada, near
Kome, with his son-in-law and daughter, the Count and
Countess Telfener. He is a member of various scientific
societies and spends his life's eventide in interesting
researches and special studies.
1— r
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lH-2
HUNTING I"OK GOLD
J. coino iKtw to tlio second cliaractur in my sketch,
Maria Jjouiso Antoinette, i;enerally called by her second
name, the eldest daughter of Colonel HunL'crf'ord.
Mrs. Hiingerford was a Mademoiselle Eveline de hi
Yisera. Her }>arents were both French, hut she was
horn in New York Citv, and had received a liheral edu-
cation. As a wife and n»other she set x brilliant ex-
ample to most women; for, although devoted to her
husband, she never stood in his way when his patriotic
nature ur^vd him to the fi'ont to defend his country's
honor, or when his adventure-sookinir instincts drove
him into distant fields, where he expected that personal
(|ualitications would warrant success. On all such occa-
sions she sui)mitted to her husband's desire and iudjjf-
ment, hopinj^ for the best, and in her letters ex[)ressing
hyr tender love and devoted prayers for the absent one.
The issue of their marria^^'e was a son, who died as a
mere child; tlie subject of this sketch, and Ada Elmira
who married Count Geseppe Telfener. In '53 this
family followed the husband and father, and became res-
idents of Downievilie. I remember the two ij^irls well,
and more especially the elder one, whom we used to
call Louise. She was conspicuous, not merely for her
beauty, but for her pleasing personality and manners.
Her eyes were large and expressive; her features soft
and round; her teint of a fair, delicate tint, and her hair
fell in rich tresses, over her shoulders. But her winsome
ways crowned all her attractions, and denoted, not only
excellent breeding and a rare example, but also a warm
and generous heait, which, indeed, she had. But for
all that — who would have dreamed that the little I^ow-
nieville girl would grow up to rule like a princess in a
fairy tale. She was raised on the mines, and out of
them, as by the magic wand of witchcraft, rose the })ow-
I
lil.l
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184
HTNTINC. FOR (iOI.I)
I' I |i
er tluit ill Jit'tcr years, ^av«! her the fame tliat slio new
L'llievs,
At th(Miu!;(^ of seventeen she married Dr. E. Kryant.
This prominent youn^' gentli'men Iiad become atta«-hed
to her tatlier's stati", hut liis career was cut sliort after
two years and a lialf ot wedded lite, leavini;- her a wi(hnv
witli a hal)y jn'irl, thi; present Princess Coh)nna. Rarely
perhaps has a woman had to pass through an ordeal as
trvinu" as did the subject of this sketch durinii that
period, l)ut she hore up with a fortitude and buoyancy
of temperament, characteristic of the soldier child, who
had inherited her father's couraijfe.
By this time Colonel Hungerford was figlitinj;' under
General McClellan, and liis wife had transferred her res-
idence to Virginia City, Nevada. Thither the younL?
widow went, and in order to help matters alon^; durin,L(
a period when their means were scarce, she established
a school m which she taught English and French, most
of her pupils being miners, and belonging to all grades
of society. Amonu them was John AV. ^lackav, whose
kindly and generous nature the most extravagant change
of fortune has not to this day altered.
The fire that destroyed Virginia City in the early six-
ties is yet remembered by many. Among the havoc
wrought was the total destruction of widow Bryant's
residence, school-house, and all her worldly possessions.
Immediately the sympathizing miners circulated a sub-
scription for the benefit of the unfortunate won:an and
her mother; but wlien it was presented to Mackay, he
looked it over, put it in his pocket, and remarking that
he would attend to that business himself, disapjteared
down the shaft.
And he did. He had just then bought the control-
ing share in the Hale and Norcross mine for .$13,000 in
wi
Hl'NTIN(; lOK COLD
185
solid i^old, jiiul lie jukk-d to his t'ortuiio by iiiiikiiii^ tlio
luindsoine widow his wife shortly after.
The pheiioiiu'iial success which attended Mackay in
his lati-'r career, needs no historioi;ra|)her here. The
innnense wealth which he amassed, enal)led him to place
his wife in a position in which she hei^ame world-famed;
jind in after years the little Downieville ,i»irl has exercised
a spell, which could only he l)roUi,dit ahout, by the posses-
sion of extra vaij^ant means, cond)ined with the })ersonal
attractions of Ijouise Mackay.
As I write this, I have before me a leading;' San Fran-
cisco ])aper, which announces that Mm. Mackay, after
an absence of sixteen years, spent chitiey in Paris and
London, has returned to San Francisco. In it 1 read
one paragraph, whieli entirely endorses my own views,
already expressed, and I quote it here:
" Undoubtedly the impressiveness of her j^reat wealth
and the enormous array of attractions it can buy, has
had its part in her phenomenal social victories; but her
natural endowments, her (puck wit, and her great tact^
liave been the more important factors in making many
of the first people of Europe her friends."
1 will not finish this sketch without making one more
allusion to her husband. He has often been judged
harshly and hard things have been said of him. Phe-
nomenal success is often foUow^ed by envy, and the green-
eyed monster will plant its claws in a man's character,
irrespective of truth. Personally speaking, California's
l)onanza king is the same plain-spoken, unpretentious
man iie was when, years ago, his hands were hard with
wieldinii- the miner's tool. He strove for success with
rment, and he is eminei
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J'
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deserving of it, yet it never turned his head or heart.
I wdl close with an instance which came to my notice.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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111 the fall of 1876 Edwin Adams, the famous actor,
returned to San Francisco, having completed a tour
through Australia. His health was broken, his purse
almost empty, and his friends in San Francisco either
dead or gone away. The great impersonator of Enoch
Arden was on the verge of dispair, and was daily sink-
ing, physically and mentally. His misfortunes came to
the ears of Mackay, and the next day a letter, contain-
ing a check for $2,000, was recieved by Adams to the
followinsi effect:
" My dear Mr. Adams: — Knowing you to be in some
slight financial strait, may I beg your acceptance of en-
closed accommodation, and thus permit me to discharge
in part the vast obligation I feel in common with hun-
dreds of others for your efforts in our behalf I trust
that we may long be honored with 3'our presence, and
that our stage may not soon be deprived of one of its
briijhtest ornaments. With mv best wishes for vour
success, and thanks for past favors, I have the honor to
remain your obliged and obedient servant,
John W. Mackay."
When Mr. Mackav was afterwards told that Adams
shed tears on receipt of the letter, he dryly remarked:
"Poor fellow, I wish to God I had sent him ten thou-
sand dollars."
Those who know the millionaire best say that his life
has been full of such acts, but he is one of those who lets
not his right hand know what his left hand doeth.
And such is the character of the man with whom the
Downieville girl was destined to share a wonderful for-
tune and a life full of romantic events.
A SLAP-JACK FIEND
In the good old days, when "Wash" Huglies and
Page were partners and ran the United States Hotel,
the air in Downieville was full of fun, and practical
jokes were the order of the day. This caravansary was
then a big institution. It stood at the corner of the
Upper plaza and the proprietors were doing a rousin<*-
business, having always a number of constant boarders
and the trade of a large proportion of visitors who came
to Downieville.
Among those who occasionally dropped into the hotel
to get a meal, was one particular man whom the waiters
called "Slaps" and as that is just as good as any other
name and fitted him better than his own, I shall retain
it here.
Mr. "Slaps," was not a regular boarder, either there
or at any other place. He was one of those individuals
whose erratic means do not always permit of a square
meal, and wlio therefore, as a matter of course and self-
defense, would ui)on more favorable opportunities counter-
act the evil effects of limited meals, by having a real
iTOod fill.
If there were a thing that culinary skill and a ])loa to
the waiter could produce, which tickled the palet of Mr.
"Slaps," that one thing was Slap-jacks, and tiie reader
will now see the connection. Slap-Jacks were to his
mind more palatable than paties de fois gras to the
gourmand of more advanced civilization and taste, and
fricassee of nightingales' tongues could not be sweeter
J87
II
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188
HT'NTINt; KOK (lOLD
relish to the oriental i;]utti>ii, than were the hot cakes
of the United States Hotel to the hero of this sketch.
Whenever he made his appearance at the hotel the
waiters would give one anotlier that silent sign, consist-
ing of a "one and a half wink" with the left eye, which
only waiters can give and understand, and which in ordi-
nary parlance means "Here goes!" The visitor would
take his seat and assume an air as if he ran the place
and owned all the slap-jacks — past, present, and future
conditional— and call out "hot cakes." Then the fun
began. Our friend could eat a plate of slap-jacks in
shorter time than it takes to tell, and no sooner disposed
of, he would call again: "Another plate of hot cakes,
waiter, if you please !"
It had been attempted several times to count the
number of plates he ordered at any particular sitting, but
waiters as a rule, are busy men, when at work, and the
count had never been carried through so as to supply a
true statistic. One morniniif there was a rush at the
hotel. A number of people had come to town to be
present at aland sale in the neighborhood, and the hos-
tehy of Hughes & Page was crowded. In the dining
room it was "waiter" here, and "waiter" there, and the
obliging servants of hungry humanity ran to and fro in
their endeavors to please everybody, racing against time,
as they did their best.
In the midst of all this, our friend of Slapjack fame
entered. The busy waiters blanched as they beheld
liim, they knew that he would give them additional
work and impede progress- -and he did! Three help-
ings followed in quick succession. Our friend yelled
"hot cakes" till strangers dropped their knives and forks
and looked about, curious to see the "other fellow,"
thiiddng they had got to a slap-jack contest. As "Slap"
HUNTING FOR GOLD
189
made the final lap in the third round and opened his
mouth to call out ''hot cakes" the waiter attending him,
lost patience. He strode into the kitchen, where Mr.
Hughes was busy at the time, and laying the case
before him, asked the boss whether he could think of
any way in wliich to satisfy tlie extraordinary demand
on the i)art of "Slaps."
Mr. Hughes was a man of quick perception, and he
at once saw his way clear to solve tlie i)roblem. On the
top of the stove a number of **slaps" were sizzling, get-
ting ready for the table, but Mr. Hughes, with one
brush, had them in a heap, and emptied the batter buck-
et over the top of the large stove, dumping about three
quarts of the paste-like mixture upon it. In a moment
the stove top looked like a geological map of California,
but it did not take lono- to make it resemble what a wit-
ness described as a "cross between a horse-blanket and
a door-mat," and when it was finished, it was put on the
bi"i»"est dish in tlie establishment, and two men placed
it before the slap-jack fiend, just as he was about to
make another frantic demand for mt)re "hot cakes."
Our friend looked at the slap-jack, at the men who
brought it, and at the people around. The latter \vere
taking it all in, when they dropped to the joke, a peal
of laughter went up which scared the stranger and
caused his hasty retreat. Since that day he never
came to the United States Hotel, and where he ate his
hot cakes afterwards, I know not.
YUBA POETS AXD POETRY.
DurinLj the oold niiiiiiiir (-lays on the Yuba a «»oocl
deal of poetry has been written by local men of talent
in that district, who wielded the pick and shovel durin*^
their workinij hours, and rode Peoassus durino- their
leisure. It is true that the verses are often wanting- in
"feet" and therefore somewhat lame, but most of the
authors do not claim to i)e more than sontjsters of the
hour.
I have thought fit to mention a few of them here, as
they in some degree express the sentiment of the mining
cam}) and in tlieir very simplicity and faultiness are often
charming illustrations of the men who wrote them, as
well as of those for whom they were written. Foremost
among the Yuba poets stands W. K Weare. Mr.
Weare had participated in the Mexican war and
returned with honor. He was for many years mining
on the Yuba in various parts, and was afterwards a
guard at the State Prison, at San Quentin. Mr. Weare
is now a very old man, and is living in Nevada City,
remembered by all who knew him, as a genial, warm-
hearted companion. His poetry embraced epics and lyr-
ics as well as odes; heroic poems and sketches, and
many of his productions are very good. His "Ode to the
Pioneers" is remembered by many as a very impressive
poem. It begins as follows:
"Magician! Memory! break the epell of intervening time,
While we rehearse the deeds of all, wrought by a faith sublime.
Since when on the Sierra's crest a Pioneer first trod,
"When all was wild as when it sprang from chaos, or from God."
190
HUNTIN(i KOK GOLD
191
Tlie ond of this Ode is very touching in all its sim-
plicity:
"How every day we hear of some, whose earthly bonds are riven;
Whose hands their hist deep shaft have sunk, their last long
tunnel driven.
Let's hope that in the fatherland they're called on to explore,
Are treasures richer, brighter far, than gold and silver ore.
For while the glorious West shall live, the pride of future years,
Thousands of liappy homes shall bless the grand old Pioneers."
Weare's real bend of mind and poetic perception comes
out well in his poem entitled "San Quentin's Graves,"
in the foUowiny- lines:
"Yonder, near St. Francis City, queenly — mistress of the Bay,
Stands Lone Mountain, proud and stutely, where the rich and
honored lay.
There are tombs — proud mausoleums — spires and statues tow'ring
high;
Dainty in their sculptured beauty — which is but a sculptured
lie.
Telling to the humble mourner who shall seek the lonely spot,
Not the tenant's life relations, but precisely what was sofc.
Vain are all the towers and columns raised to conquerors by
slaves;
These are just as near their maker as San Quentin's outcast's
graves."
Indeed, Weare expressed very many pretty thoughts
in simple, but sympathetic language, and when, in 1879,
he published a volume of his poetry, his old friends were
glad of an opportunity to secure a collection they had
long urged him to bring out-
Following is a poem entitled "Sierra Buttes," the
author of which is unknown to me, although he was a
Yuba miner.
"Through Time's dim vista looking down, ,
Perhaps frowning o'er some ancient sea.
Dark clouds then resting on thy crown,
And all around thee mystery. . •
*
lt)2 HUNTING FOR CiOLD
•'Tlioii watchest the fierv crateiH flow,
And inountains lieaviug at their birtli,
Amid the molten hiva's glow;
Before mankind had touched the earth.
"Still towering upward into space,
A landmark when the morning breaks,
Yet men are delving at thy base,
And heeding not thy darksome peaks.
"Time fades, yet ever rolling on,
Men come and go and gaze on thee;
Like fleeting shadows they are gone.
But thou art for eternity."
Fred Stone, I l)elieve, is the author of the following
poem, entitled "The Village Maiden." Fred was sonie-
thino: of a singer and had a tune for the words, which
I think was his own composition although it may not
have been very orio^inal.
"Mother, dear, the bells are ringing.
There's holly on the window pane;
I hear the distant voices singing,
Christmas-tide has come again.
Winter's mantle, white, is lying —
On the earth lies crystal snow.
Gleaming, as the day is dying,
In the sunset's golden glow.
"Oh, it seems so hard to leave you;
To the earth I fondly cling.
Do not let these moments grieve you, .
Yet I'd like to see the Spring,
With its sunshine, all its flowers.
And its perfume-laden breeze ;
Glistening raindrops, after showers,
Like gems sparkling on the trees.
"I hear no more from absent Willie;
He stays so long beyond the sea;
There's the faded rose and lily,
! . Which at parting he gave me.
HUNTINC; FOR GOLD
IIKJ
e-
ch
lOt
See, I i)reHK tlieni, Koftly Hipfhiiij,',
And bodew tlieiii with a tear;
They are dead, and I am dying,
Dying with the waning year.
Do you think dear friends will miss me,
"When wild mirth will freely flow '?
No more village youth Avill kiss nie,
Underneath the miHtletoe ?
Nor Old Christmas, ag'd and hoary,
Bring its joys and hopes to me?
'Tis faded, gone; and in its glory,
Vanished with our Christinas tree.
Hark ! the bells so joyfully ringing;
The holly's on the window-pane.
And soft voices, sweetly singing —
"Kiss me, mother, once again."
Thus she sang; her heart o'erladen;
Her parting breath she softly si<;hed;
Death had claimed the village maiden,
Whils't yet 'twas Christmas-tide.
Old Sain Hartley took to rliyiiiing, occasionally, and
one of his productions i.s called:
MINING FOR GOLD.
I have traveled this world wearily o'er,
Hailed its wide seas, viewed many a shore.
Seeking to find, each jjath that I went,
For joys once found in a gold miner's tent,
That stood on the bank of Yuba's rich stream ;
E'er life's fond illusions passed like a dream;
The songs that we sung, the stories we told,
Down by the river, when mining for gold.
All's changed ; but mj' heart it feels the same glow,
For frienas a old times in that long ago;
The hills are as grand, as stately the pines,
But where are the friends I knew in the mines.
I viewed the old spot where the log cabin stood.
It braved the stern winter storms, and the flood;
The roof has gone down, the logs scattered lay.
I
194
HUNTING FOR GOLn
i
That the Iwiiul of ohl timo has br()U<4'ht to ilct-ay.
These rafters will sinj,' no more with wild >^\ve.
Nor make the lone stranger welcome and free;
The place now is silent, unlike of old,
Down by the river when mining for gold.
Hearty the greeting of friends we would meet,
III town midst the throng and crowds on the street;
No brow was o'ercast, nor tinctured with gloom,
All was success in the flats or the tiuine.
Many are scattered to come not again,
Few are the faces we see that remain,
Hands that we clasped with warmth, now ar(i cold,
Down by the river — laid under the mold.
Botli the latter j)oenis were sung by their respective
autliors, one Cliristnias Eve, u jjfood manv years a<jo, in
a miner's cabin on the Yuba. Tlie night was cold and
wild. Outside the snow fell fast, and the wind howled
round the corners; but within was good-cheer and mer-
ry comittinv. In the midst of this scene of comfort aiul
contentment, a knock came to the door, and upon open-
ing, a stranger staggered in, nearly overcome with
fatigue, cold and hunger. He carried a violin in a case
and was at once made welcome by the miners. They
did all to revive the traveler who was on the point of
succumbing to the hardships he had been exposed to.
He turned out to l)e Mr. Frank Littleton, the well-
known musician, and soon recoverinsji" under the influence
of an exceeding hospitality, he participated in the enter-
tainment and played the accompaniment for the two
miners mentioned above, as they sang their songs.
A frequent contributor to the poetic corner of Sierra
papers, uses the pseudonym of "Miner." His produc-
tions are generally descriptive, and in the following-
poem, entitled "The Snow-shoe Kaces," he has given a
good picture of a local sport which ailbrds much amuse-
ment:
HrXTIMi I'Dk ii()Ll>
li>o
When Hiiow lies (l('c[) (Ui cvcrv liill,
Silence reij(ns — the birdn are still;
Where goM is nestlin;^' in the mines,
An<l (lark cliffs rest iinion;^' the i>ines;
The earth is robe*! in purest white
The sun gives out its dazzling' light;
The snnw-Hhoe racers each in place,
The given signal starts the race.
People in cities can never know,
How jollv it is to glide o'er the snow.
Down the mountain side, like hirds in flight,
Or meteors on a starry night —
Bending low to miss the breeze,
Flying past the stately trees,
lUishing down to tlat below,
Dancing o'er the "beautiful snow,"
Falling, rolling, seeing stars
Then hear the laughing crowd's hurrah!
Away down the valley where oranges grow.
They miss all the fun we have in the snow.
Tin; ladies, too, with modest grace,
Will take their chance to win tlu! race;
Their hearts may beat with fear or hope,
But each has got her lightning "doi)e" —
The signal's given, oif *hey go;
Pull wild at starting, scratching snow,
And if the dears ai*e not experts.
The air seems tilled with snow and skirts.
They try again, with face aglow,
Determined to win or die in the snow.
When darkness o'er the hills advance,
The sport ends with a social dance;
Chill winter thus his pleasures bring,
And water flows with early spring.
Then glittering gold that lay below,
Is brought to light by melting snow;
The track is gone, but beaming faces.
With glee recall the snow-shoe races.
106
HUNTING FUK GOLD
I 1
People in cities and valleyH may know,
"NVhen it is fnlliiif^ there's goUl in the snow.^ .
"Minor" irt also the autlior of a poem which ho calls
"The haniriiiLj o\' the Mexican woman," wherein he des-
cribesa scene with which my readers are already familiar.
I apj)end "Miner's" version and verses relative to the inci-
dent which I have more fully described in the preced-
ino" na-jfes:
'Twivs lon<^ ajjfo — a /iily morn —
The stars paled in the early light;
A nmn lay stai'k and dead at dawn,
His life ebbed with the shades of night.
A woman wronged by brawler's strife.
Bravely took the avenger's part;
One swift-aimed blow her glist'ning knife,
Plnnged deep into a miner's heart.
Men gathered, then, from near and far,
And left to silence raanv a mine,
On many a far-off creek and bar,
Then shaded by the oak and pine,
And rushed to swell the surging throng.
Like gath'ring streams in onward flood;
Men thus were wildly borne along,
Who shrank from shedding human blood.
The hot sun shone above the scene,
The river murmured in its bed,
The hills were clothed in summer green.
And birds were fluttering overhead.
Friends tried to shield her — all in vain —
They brought her forth with wildest jeers;
The die was cast, her blood must stain.
The annals of the Pioneers.
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
107
! !
Id
oi
CHAPTER I.
Arrival at Victoria — Sliai-p Practico^ — Indians Bring the First
CJold— The Hudson Bay Company — An Energetic (iovernor
— A Route to the Mines — Joining an Expedition — Natives
Surprised — The Dame and the Bullets — Adventures on a
Stream — ^Lilooet Lake — A Favorable Report — An Attempt
that Failed.
During the iiioiitii of July, 1858, I arrived for tlie first
tinio in Britisli Columbia, landing in Victoria.
At that time a tremendous excitement prevailed in
this colon}', caused hy the discovery of gold, the news of
which had spread all over the world. Rumors had sped
like carrier pigeons to the remote mountain diggings of
California, as well as to the more civilized portions of
the globe, and the spirit for adventure and the lust for
gold once more drew men toward a connnon center. In
this throno- that flocked northward alon<j the Pacific
Coast, were many of the pioneers of the Californian
miners, earlv settlers on the Yuba and American Rivers,
while otlier gold fields of Alta California were well rep-
resented.
For several years gold had been known to exist in
British Columbia, but it may not have suited the first
Caucasian discoverers of this fact to reveal the same.
As early as '52 Mr. McLean, who then represented the
Hudson Bay Company as chief trader at Kamloops,
learned of the presence of gold, but not of its where-
abouts. As in California, it was the native son of the
soil who first brought tlie precious metal into notice, but
as in the latter place, the priests, for reasons already
given, sui)pressed the fact; thus the keen business men
,
., 1
1 1'
[i,:^l:
m
Ibiii
;
I I
200
HUNTIXG FOK GOLD
of the Hudson Bay Compaiiv may have also thouoht it
wise to remain silent about the matter. The Indians
were the first bearers of jrold to his Caucasian lord, to
whom he traded it, generally in the form of dust, for
such trifles as his fellow-men — fairer in complexion only
— saw fit to give for it. But by degrees the truth
leaked out, and the fact was revealed. Adventurers
came from the adjacent districts — Oregon and Washing-
ton in particular. They made their way up the rugged
country on either side of the Thompson and other tribu-
taries of the Eraser River, and it was soon apparent that
gold was plentiful. Then the stream of immigration be-
gan. I have shown how at this period the Californian
miner had become tired of home chances, which by tle-
grees had become few and far between, and with his
characteristic hopefulness he had left his old claim that
paid moderately, or his sluice and tunnel that kept him
in debt; had packed his pick and pan, rolled up his tent,
and like the Arab, silently stolen away.
To one who had profited by the schooling which min-
ing life imparts, as much as I had, the singular conditions
which presented themselves in Victoria during those
days did not seem very stran«j:e, but the youth wiio had
just left his mother's apron strings to go in search of for-
tune, may, indeetl, have felt some surprise at his first
experience on the road to the new liJi Dorado. The crowd
that trathered in Victoria was larirer and more mixed
than any I had seen before, and the number of "sharpers"
who practiced their tricks upon strangers, and made the
poor "greenhorns" their "ictinis, was astonishing. I re-
gret to say that in several of these unscrupulous specu-
lations I recognized some of my old Californian acquain-
tances, even a former Downieville miner.
Provisions became scarce at one time and prices rose
HUNTING FOR GOLD
201
•st
rd
3d
>>
:lie
re-
cu-
lui-
ose
accordingly. Some of the old miners, who knew from
exi)erience, what hungry men will pny for food, comhimd
and offered the Hudson Bay Company to buy the bal-
ance of their Hour. Thus they secured several hundred
barrels, costing $10 per barrel at the one end, and a
couple of dollars per pound at the other. Then the men
became disheartened. They went to the Company to
incjuire whether all of their Hour had been really dis[)osed
of, and were greatly relieved when told that the lot sold
merely comprised their local stock on hand, but that in
others of their stores they had plenty which they would
be glad to sell at their ordinary rates. Thus the schemes
to extort money from the miners were frustrated, and the
speculators suddenly became wholesale dealers in flour,
without any chance of realizing an expected enormous
profit.
The man who at that time controlled the Hudson Bay
Company, was James Douglas, who very shortly after-
wards was appointed governor of British Colund^ia.
Mr. Douglas became very popular with the strangers
after this episode, and I may remark here that the officers
of that Company, throughout, were able, clear-headed,
and very accommodating men. I have had nmch to do
with them and always found them particularly pleasant
to deal with. Another corner was secured by a former
Monte-Cristo miner, whose labor in California had been
fraught with success. He bought up all the pans in the
market) and for awhile pans were at a premium; but the
mercenary vendor rendered himself so nmch detested
throuoh this deal that, no doubt, he had occasion to re-
gret his nefarious speculation.
The gold mining of British Columbia proved some-
what different from that of California. In the first place
the northern Indian was not as easily handled when the
Ii ^
202
HUNTIN(i FOR GOLD
(juestion was "(lio\i^in|Li" tor gold," as was his more south-
ern hrotlicr. The reason for tliis may ])robal)ly be found
in the diilerent nuinner, in whieh tlie vahie of gold was
presented to him. In California the suave priest would
not apparently place any value upon the gold. A meal,,
a piece of elotli, a little tobacco, .. mil if the Indian pro-
fessed Christianity, the absolution from his sins, would
constitute the barter, in which a lump of gold or a
(juantity of dust represented his side of the bargain. In
British Columl)ia the proposition was very difierent.
The mercantile world had thought fit to establish proper
business relations with the Indians. They had traded
with them on. a commercial basis, and when they dis-
covered that gold was worth anything t<» the [)ale-face,
they had accepted and received for it, if not an adequate
value, at all events, a value which was measured by a
business propof"' ion. Xo wonder, therefore, that these
savages objected to the sudden invasion of many thous-
ands of men, wlio came to take away part of the materi-
al, for the finding of which they were, in their own esti-
mation, handsomely lewarded.
But in addition to the hostility which the Indians
exhibited in so many instances, the miners had to con-
tend with the difficulties presented by tlie natural for-
mation of the country. Probably no [lart of the world
is more cut up by rugged mountains atd rushing rivers,
than British Columbia, and the road that naturally pre-
sented itself to the miner, as leading to the upper Fra-
ser, was a dangerous one. No sooner had Douglas
been made Governor of the possession, than he deter-
mined to send out a party for the purpose of finding, if
possible, another route, and he commissioned Mr. J. G.
McKay to head the expedition, which I was invited to
join. The idea was to find a route to the upper Phaser,
HUNTING FOK GOLD
203
ItO
via Howe Sound and Lilooet Lake, and thus avoid
ascending the river through the canyons, where the tre-
(juent rapids rendered the journey practically risky.
Tliis trip attorded nie the first good opportunity of mak-
ing myself acquainted with a new and interesting coun-
try.
We went first to Fort Lani^ley, where we were
equipped with all the necessaries for our expedition.
The so-called forts were trading posts, established in va-
rious parts of the country by the Hudson Bay Compa-
ny, and most ot* them were called by the name of some
prominent ofiflcer of this famous organization, which at
these centers carried on their trafiftc with the native
tribes. The forts were all constructed on the same
plan, although they difiered in regard to the number of
buildings they contained. The sites selected for the
forts, was commonly a spot on the bank of a lake or
river, elevated so as to form a point of vantage over the
surrounding country, and the buildings of which the
post consisted, were constructed of hewn timbers,
and varied in number from a single block-house to
fifteen or twenty. In the latter case they consisted of
one or two large houses for the officers and clerks, and
the quarters for the mechanics and laborers. In addi-
tion to these were spacious store-houses for the recep-
tion of goods, more particularly furs, shops for carpen-
ters, coopers, blacksmiths and other trades, and a pow-
der maofazine, built of brick or stone. In some few
cases the posts also had a school-house and chapel.
The whole of the little settlement was surrounded by a
strongly-built stockade from fifteen to twenty feet high,
on the inside of vvliich, near the top, ran a gallery, pro-
vided with loop-holes for nuiskets, in the manner of
mediteval tortifications. The picket-work or palisading,
^1
204
;IUNTIX(; FOR frOI.I)
MM
■llill
f--\n-
i,;
was Hanked witli l)asti()ii.s. of vvhicli tluTc wore ijenoral-
Iv two, placed diai'-oiuilly at the coniei's of tlio lort, and
inoiiiitcd with small pieces of cannon, and jnovided
with the •necessary loop-holes for muskets. In foundin*^
these posts the principal items, taken into considei'ation,
•jfonerally were the accessihilitv of the location, t)ie num-
ber of Indians and the ahundance of tiir-itroducinu- ani-
mals in the neighborhood, as well as the soil in which
grain and vegetables were raised for the supply of the
place. At nujst of the posts garxlening and farming
were carried on (juite extensively and successfully, and
large numbers of tine cattle were raised; while at oth-
ers, less favored, the bi'ave representatives of the com-
pany had, as a rul. , but a scanty supj)ly of food, princi-
pally c(jnsisting of salmon and other fish, with such
wild fruit as the Indians might bring, and occasional
contributions of game. The latter was, however,
already, in those tlays becoming a luxury, owing to the
persistency with which the deer had lieen hunted for
years for the sake of its meat and the antlers of the
stag. I was much i i pressed by these forts, when I
first saw them. It is true, that they offered but a ]X)or
[»rotection against modern artillery, even as it was then;
but they presented (piite a formidable appearance, and
have always been found to serve their purpose well l)y
over-awing the Indians and successfully resisting their
attacks.
Fort Langley is situated on the South side of the riv-
er Fraser, about twentv-five miles from its mouth. It
was already then an old, extensive establishment, I
believe at that time, under the supervision of Mr. Yale,
who held a prominent position with the company The
company had a laro;e farm here witli a considerable
amount of stock. The land, which had been cleared of
t
[
ie
k
SIR JAMES DOUGLASS, K. C. B.
]•
-;--f"
I 'if*
ill
!l
ll
I
I
!
mm
I
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I'. I
1 1
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I
2o(;
HUNTINfl KOK (iOLD
lieavy tiinl)c'r, produced excellent crops and vef»Ttal)les
and fruit |j;re\v in abundance, during' their respective
seasons. AH tlirouo'li ilie district were small piaii'ies,
in which a luxuriant s^Towtli of jjfrass aHorded splendid
|>asture for the cattle, 'ind yielded, in addition, an ahun-
dant supply of liay for the winter. On the opposite
side of the river there was an Indian village.', in which
dwelt the renniant of a once numerous tribe. They
had, however, in common with many of their sister
tribes, who enjoyed the close association of the pale-face,
become considerably reduced, both in nundjers and mor-
als, for it is a sad fact, that in the contest between civi-
lization and savagedom, the latter is generally annihila-
ted.
Ill later chapters I shall liave more to say about
these, our copper-colored fellow-beings, for I came nuich
in contact with them and had ample opportunity to
observe them. Meanwhile I return to our trip in
search of a route, by which the miners might more
easily reach the regions of the Upper Fraser. From
Langley we took the trail to Howe Sound and then
steered our course forLilooet Lake, arriving there after
several adventures. We got a right royal reception,
when we approached the first Indian village. The
whole population came out to meet us, but the welcome
was sent per musket ball, and we did not care for it.
Some of the braves mounted a pile of wood and continued
pointing tlieir guns at us, but I realized that the first
exhibition of fear would mean death to us and told Mc-
Kay so. Linked arm in arm, we marched bravely for-
ward, and when we reached the base of the stack of
wood, we held out our hands for them to help us up,
which they did in a mechanical sort of way, apparently
taken aback by our cool demeanor. My eye caught
HUNTING FOR GOLD
207
siuj-lit of one old (Uiino, wlio carried a lon^' bai^, apparently
containing lUnips of .soniethin«r. iVty cnriosity was
aroused, and, tliinkin*^ for certain that it was gold, I
made u[) my mind to lay siege to tlie good will of the
ancient beauty; but I entirely lost ujy ambition in that
direction, wlien I saw hci* opening the bag a few minutes
later and take from it a number of muskets balls, which
she distril)uted among the young braves, that they might
make holes in us. Such conduct would have })Ut a
damper on the good opinions of her most ardent admirer.
After awhile, we succeeded in making friends with
the Indians, who were known as the "ITnamish," and
were considered a somewhat treacherous tribe. In
return for a nmsket they gave us a canoe, and we now
followed the stream thinking that we liad improved our
conditions somewhat; but we soon discovered that the
cant)e was too small to be of actual service to us.
However, we made the best of it for several miles and
then came across another canoe on a bar. We left a
nmsket in payment for it and traveled on, after having
divided our pack; but we had not gone far, when we
were overtaken by the owner of our new craft, who came
after us in another dug-out;standing up in the bow of it,
he shouted to us to halt, and we thought best to obey.
He had a lt)ng lua tea talk with Mr. McKay, who gave
him some tobacco and made friends' and then we jiro-
ceeded up the river.
I must admit I did not relish our navigation very
much; and I sujipose it was because, at that time, I was
unused to the scenes that presented themselves. Every
now and then we came upon Indian villages, and every
time we had to halt and keep talking with the inhabitants,
who came down to accost us. We also had to o-ivo them
presents at every place, consisting of powder, musket
208
HUNTINC. l-OK (ini.I)
halls, tobacco or other things, which they apprcciatcfd.
They had adisaj^reeably, insiiiuiitiiiijf way of haiiL^iii<^ over
the i^unwale of our canoe with hi*'' howie knives in their
hands. It is an old sayinuc, ^'^'^l ^ true one, that
familiarity breeds contempt, and I suj>pose, it did with
me, for I soon became accustomed to their wavs and
took no notice of them afterwards, but on the occasion
of my first introduction to these people, their manner of
approachin<4' strangers ott'ended niy sensibilities.
We were fortunate enounh to be able to leport the
possibility of traveling by the route, proposed, and reach
Lake Lilooet 1)V it. This watershed possesses at lea,st
one remarkable feature — the turbid appearance of its
waters, which are of a dirty green hue. This is quite
an exception to the general rule, for in British Colum-
bia the water of the lakes is noted for its remarkable
purity and clearness, the lakes, as a rule, being exceed-
ingly deep. The reason Lake Lilooet does not follow
suit in this respect, may be found in the tact, that the
feeders run over a species of argillacious earth, which,
no doubt, imparts to the water the offensive color.
The importance of our successful endeavors to find
this passage could be only fully realized by men who
had traveled in these regions. It was not long before a
proper route was established to the Fraser river by way
of Lilooet Lake, the Lilooet and Harrison mines, the
Lilooet Meadows, lakes Anderson and Seton, these
points being interspersed witli mule trails.
On our return we went to Nanaimo, where we were
kindly received by Captain Stewart, Adam Howe and
Dr. Benson, all of the Hudson Bay Company. Gover-
nor Douglas received our report with much satisfaction
but desired us to find, if possible, another short route,
which could be utilized at once without any further
HUNTiNc; KOK (;oi,r)
2(»'.>
trouMc ill the niakiiiL^ of trails, rtc Tho Govornor liad
a tlioory tluit this rould ho roahzed hy .startin;;" tVoii. a
point higher U[) (»ii the coast, and we made an attempt,
starting from Jarvis Inlet, hut after a very hazardous
trij), on whieji ^ve suft'ered numerous liardshi[>s, we
liad to uhandon the idea, as wholly impraetieahle.
I ;
CHAPTER ri.
(^ueeu ("Imvlotto Islnml — (ndd Harbor— Sootcli Guy — The Majesty
of Niitiire — Ciiptiiin (ujld -Potliitcli — I'oliticiil ('iiiiipaij^iiH —
Tott'iuH — Ar(!liit('ct.uro iiiid Art — An IntcroHtinf^ I'ooplo —
Vanity of ^Sllva{,'•ed()lu -CuriouH Customs — The Denth-dauce
— Myth and Legend.
Early in tlio yoar 185!) I was ono of a party, oiiil)ark-
injj^ tor tilt) QuooM Charlotte Islands. Wo had chart-
ered a sehooHi'r in eonimand of Captain llobinson, and
my intention was to prospect the islands for ^old and
afterwards ex [)lore the cost of the mainland, as (gover-
nor Douglas was anxious? to know more about the
numerous iidets there, as well as the possibility of loca-
tin_i^ an available pass for the buildinijf of the projected
Great Canadian and Pacific Railway.
We were a band of twenty-seven miner?, all old hands
and well tried, and we steered our course for Gold Har-
bor on Moresby Island, but only to find it a second Gold
Lake of California fame. We carefully examined a spot
where a large (quantity of gold had been taken out some-
time before, but could not find anything worth work-
ing, although we saw quartz and did some blasting.
The general nature of the rock was trap and hornblend,
and, at the head of Douglas Inlet, we found gran-
ite, as well as slate, talcose rock and coal, but not gold;
and I concluded, tliat the large amount of this metal,
which had been found previously in those parts with so
little difficulty, existed merely in what the miners call
an oflT-shoot or blow-out, which can only be explained as
one of those freaks of nature, so often found in a min-
ing country.
HUNTINCi FOR GOLD
'ill
In the Ski(l<;iite Clianiic'l wa nut with but littln bet-
ter succosH. We were wind-bound For some time near
tiie Casswer Indian village, where we discovered traces
of previous prospcicting. Here the indicatioi»s of jjjold
were ci'rtainly more distinct. We met an Indian Ciiief,
who to accommodate us gave lii^' name as Scotch (iuy.
He wore a large piece of gold, weighing probably two
ounces, but he could not be persuaded to tell us, where
he found it. As to ourselves, we could not find any
gohi. There was plenty of sulphurate of iron, talcose
slate, and red earth, and I received the impression, that
the natives there are first-class prospectors, and know
all about ijold mininy;.
The coast from Casswer village to Skidgate Channel
presents some of the wildest scenery, I have ever seen.
The rocks rise like mighty giants, daring the approach-
ing sailor to set foot on the island they guard. They
stand bold and defiant with the scars of ajjes seaminy;
their sides in the shape of rifts and fissures, and, at
their feet, the waters roll with a strong underswell
towards the uninvitiny; shore. But here and there a
narrow inlet will admit the traveler into a small natural
harbor. Also this may be surrounded by towering
mountains, reariny; aloft with the same threatening;
appearance, while here and there a waterfall, like a thun-
! dering, splashing cascade, throws its contents into the
otherwise quiet harbor and makes its waters turbulent.
An investigation of the northwest portion of the isl-
and revealed the fact that it consists chiefiy of low, sandy
or gravel flats with no indications of being a gold bear-
ing country. We therefore gave up our search for gold
in these quarters and set sail for the mainland, intending
to explore the country from Fort Simpson to Fort St.
James.
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Ht'NTI\r. FOR GOIJ)
But wliile I have tliu.s hricfly taken my reader over
what I may call the business portion of my first trip to
Queen Charlotte Island, I propose to dwell a little longer
on tlie natural conditions that came to niv notice,
whilst there. I consider this part of the world a highly
interesting one and my observation of the Indians showed
them to be a race, different in many respects to the
ordinary redskin.
The large group of islands was originally discovered
in the year 1774 by a Spanisli navigator, named Juan
Perez, who called them Caho De St. Martj^arita, but as
early as 1787 a Captain Dixon, in command of the ship
"Queen Charlotte," gave them their present name, and
during the following year Captain William Douglas of
the ship "Iphigenia," with a poition of his crew, were the
first white men who sat foot on the islands, landing in
Parrv Sound and establishino- the first trade with the
natives. However, up till the time when I first visited
these Islands, no systematic attempt had been made to
explore them, with the exception of one, made by the
French adventurer, Captain Etienne Marchand, who in
the year 1791 with the ship "Solide," visited the south-
ern seas and explored a small portion of this archipelago.
Since my first visit to these islands the Colonial govern-
ment has done much to ascertain the nature of them
and has made exact charts of the group, and I may
mention the name of Newton H. Chittenden as a gentle-
man, who has spared no efforts to explore them, gaining,
as a result, not only much knf)wledge as to their phys-
ical condition, but also learning many interesting facts
about their inhabitants.
The whole group is said to consist of some 150 islands.
They are separated from the mainland l)y Queen Char-
lotte Sound, which varies in width from thirty to eighty
HUNTING FOR GOLD
213
miles. Their most southern point, Cape St. James, is
one hundred and fifty miles from the nearest point of
Vancouver Island, and to the north they are separated
from the Prince William ^^^roup of x\laska by Dixon
Entrance, having an average width of about thirty
miles.
The general physical conditions of this archipelago
would give the impression that it is merely the remnants
of a terra Jirma, which, through some fearful revolution,
has been reduced to a most bewildering labyrinth oi
islands and islets, separated by sounds, straits, passages,
and fringed with inlets of the most phantastic shapes.
Thn)U!j::h the entire lenorth of the islands runs a mount-
ain chain, ranging in higlit from si\ hundred to five
thousand feet, covered with an evergreen forest of spruce,
hemlock and cedar, which, with few exceptions, stretch
from their summit to the coast. The exceptions occur
where the coast in sonic j)laces is rock-bound, and in
others is found of sandy soil .
Many remarkable eflects are produced, both in scenic
and geological respect, where the coast is rocky. In
some places the highest elevations on the immediate
coast do not exceed four hundred feet, while in others
bold, rocky bluffs rise to the highth of eight hundred
feet, at times as high as twenty-five hundred feet, above
the level of the sea, the mountains bordering on the
inlets, presenting an almost perpendicular front.
There are, I suppose, an uncounted number of streams
on these islands. They are naturally only short, but
rush towards the ocean with swift currents, and fall into
the larger waters with a thundering noise, as they leap
down the steep rocks or make their way over the more
gradual mountain slopes. They add considerably to the
grandeur of this singular nature, which on the whole is
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HrNTIXC, FOR OOLI)
exceudiii^'Iy jucturesquo, foriiiinL»' wonderful scenes, in
which blend the (jcean hlue and the forest verdure, with
the silver spray of the rivers and the .solemn rocks that
rise where the breakers toss their white-capped heads at
their feet.
If the theory be correct, that these islands at one
time belonged to a terra jirma, a portioii of which is now
buried beneath the rolling' waters, there can be no
doubt that this land was gold bearing and probably
richly so. The gold found in '52 in Mitchell Harbor,
bt^tter known as Gold Harbor, may have been a corner,
broken away from a large and rich supply, which now
lies many faohoms below. In parts of the island there
are indications of gold, but I have not learned as yet,
that any quantity has been found since the Hudson Bay
Company took out the gold referred to, the presence of
it beino' revealed by an Indian, known ever since as
Captain Gold The whole of that quantity amounted to
only $5,000, which after all was nothing. I have aln^ady
mentioned the existence of coal in some place- and I
think tliat copper might be found on the island, at least
1 saw indications of it on Moresby Island. But, notwith-
standing the evident trace of gold, coal and copper, to
this day neither of these minerals have been found in
sufHcient (juantity to warrant the expense of working
them. They are merely there as pointing to the exist-
ence of larger stores of their own kinds hidden some-
where in that wonderful architecture of that locality.
I>ut where ^ That is the o'reat enis^ina, which
remains unsolved. No feature of these islands, however,
surpassed in interest the natives, who are called Hydah
Indians. To me the study of man has always been more
attractive than anvthino- else I know of, and I have had
great o[)[)ortunities for practicing it under varied circum-
>
IINDAH INDIAN CHIEFS.
21«
HUNTING FOR GOLD
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stances, applying my observations to human beings of
tlitlerent races and nationalities.
The Hydah Indian is probably the finest savage I
have ever had the pleasure < '' meeting, and I shall, at
all events, always feel kindly towards liim, when I rec-
ollect, that he never showed any desire to scalp me or
in any other way molest me, which is a good deal more
than I can say for his brethren on the niaiidand. They
are not a handsome-featured people, and their women
lack graceful movements. Their hair and eyes are very
black; their teeth shining white and their complexions
of an olive hue. The averajje hight of the male is about
five feet seven inches, and both men and women have
finely developed chests and forearms, caused by their
incessant handling of the oars; for they are the best
boatmen I have ever met, and in saying this I refer to
both sexes. They have, indeed, an amphibious-like
nature, for they seem to be as much at home in the
water as they are ashore, and for feats of diving and
swinnning their equals are not easily found.
Their political institutions seemed to me to have nuich
in common with our own American ways. The man
who wishes to become chief has to pay dearly for the
honor. The payment consists of a feast, which often
lasts for days. Everybody is then invited and hand-
somely entertained, and blankets are distributed in great
numbers. It will be seen by this, that the idea of buy-
ing friends in a political campaign is by no means a
result of progressive American civilization, but rather a
return to savagedom. At all events, he who entertains
the handsomest; who has the most money to spend and
can make himself most popular through his means, wins
the contest, which is often most bitterly fought. These
feasts are called potlaich, a term which indicates the dis-
HUNTING FOR GOLD
217
d-
sat
Ins
pd
us
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lis-
tinetion of certain things, and they are celebrated on
various occasions, such as tlie funeral of a deceased
nieniber of the tribe, the inauguration of a new house,
etc.
Strangely enough, when I first knew these people,
the nussionarics did not seem to have had much to do
with them, and wliat civilization they had appeared to
me to have been carried to them [)rhici[)ally through
traders and more in particular through the Hudson Bay
Com))any. They were very distinctly classified, not
only in castes but also in ditlerent tribes, which had evi-
dently been done for the purpose of preventing too close
intermarriage. Each one of these tribes, or families,
has its own crest, which is fre(piently engraved upon
their belongings. They are called ^o^emsand the natives,
belonging to the same totem, are forbidden to intermarry.
They have a number of these totems, known in their own
language as the eagle, the wolf, the crow and so on.
Their moral standard did not appear to be very high,
and they were in absolute ignorance of tlie sentiments
expressed in a good many of the ten commandments, or
otherwise they utterly disregarded them. As I have
said, they were not blood-thirsty, but they often forgot
to distinijfuish between our belono"in«xs and their own, and
were frequently persistent in insisting upon a potlatch,
or distribution of our efl'ects among tiieniselves.
As mechanics they far surpassed what I had then
seen of savaoje skill in. this direction, and their villasfes
were to me a most wonderful sight. They had learned
from the traders to build proper houses and constructed
some very comfortable habitations, which nearly always
presented the gable, to what I should call the front.
But tlieir poles were the most singular feature about
the villages. The proper meaning of these poles I have
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HUNTING FOR (iOLD
M! I
never learned, Imt tbev tower like hu*j^e eolunins from
tliirtv to seventy feet in hiiji'lit outside nianv of their
houses. They are covered from the base to the apex
with carvings of the most grotesque order. It nmst he
said, that in the art of carving these savages stand very
high, more es[)ecially considering the few and })rimitive
implements with which they do their work. I havt'
seen later in Alaska similar artistic work; but when foi-
the first time T beheld it at the villaije of Gold Harbor on
Maud Island, I was fairly taken aback. Not only are
their columns decorated with such carvings, but everv
other conceivable thing belonging to them, such as their
a.\ handles, oars, canoes, even spoons or drinking vessels,
and they appear to think nothing worth having which
has not been artistically carved. Their skill in building
canoes is very wonderful, and it is a question to me,
whether any other nation, savage or civilized, can })r()-
duce better boats for speed than these people, whose
principal boat building place is at Massett.
They have the same hankering for personal adorn-
ments as their Caucasian fellow-beings, and their women
more particularly do not give their fairer sisters any
odds, although, as a matter of course, they differ in
stvle and fashion. When I first came amonu; them,
European fashions were not much in vogue, although
later on, the blanket, breech cloth and leather coverings
have been discarded for cloaks made from the skin of the
sea otter, proper pants and dresses, and woven under-
wear, but in common with all savage races boots are the
last portion of civilized dress tliey will adopt. By way
of ornamentation, men and women tatooed themscKcs,
often profusely so, and here again the tote)ii>i frtMjuently
appear. Tlie women were quite clever at braiding and
manufactured a kind of hat, which they wore. They
huntinCt I'OR gold
2r.>
also prepared certain i)aiiits, with whicn they covered
their faces, and for this purpose they used verniillion,
common cliarcoal, deer talh)vv and other inLjrecUents,
which shoved tliat the artist of the liare's foot and tlie
inventors of beauty powder and face enamel are by no
means original in their endeavors to hide nature's own
gift. For additional ornament both perforated the sep-
tum of the nose and inserted a silver ring, and the women
often decorated their fingers with a nund)er of rings and
used feathers, mother of pearl and a variety of shells for
further decoration.
Their social enjoyments were mostly confined to
dancing and masquerades and they exhibited great in-
genuity in their make-up. Their object seemed generally
to be to imitate the animals, which rove throuixh the
forests of their island home, but not only did they wear
on their own heads the heads of bears, deer, goats and
other animals, as well as masks, representing birds, but
they were also adepts at imitating on r^ed whistles the
shrill cry of manv of the wild forest birds. Thev also
wore other masks with moving eyes and lips and a most
hideous expression. On festive occasions they wore a
shawl of their own manufficture, which was of a [)artic-
ularly fine texture and made from the wool of the mount-
ain goat. In their hands they carried small hoops, to
which were attached a number of birds' beaks, and with
these they produced a noise resembling the sound of
castanets. While this diabolic concert is ofoinsj: <>ii the
dancers scatter the soft down of birds, until the air is
filled with them, and it may be easily understood that to
the stranojer, who for the first time witnesses this scene,
the eti'ect is i)erfectly bewildering.
Most characteristic of all is the so-called death-dance,
performed by one single individual, who runs through
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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the villai^e like a iiiadiium, vveariiij^ notliing but a loiii-
clotli. As he ruslies past the liouses, lie imitates the
hideous shriek of some wild beast, and, seizing an}' ani-
mal, which may happen in his way, he tears it to pieees
and devours a portion of the raw Hesh.
They do not appear to have any relii^ious cleas, out-
side that of the great spirit, whose aid they implore,
when emVjarking; in any undertaking, and his opposite,
which would correspond with the devil ot other beliefs.
They do not, however, have any graven images of either
of these powers, and I imagine their ideas of them are
somewhat vague.
They have at the same time, certain traditions or
legends, which are handed down to them as myths
from a remote antiquity. Thus they account tor the
creation of men by relating, that when the whole earth
was covered with water, a raven, tlie only living crea-
ture left, heard cries issuing from a shell lying on a
protruding rock, and upon examining it, discovered with-
in a woman and a child, whom he brought forth. He
married the woman, and thus became the father of the
whole Indian race.
Another singular myth, explains tlie origin of the
heavenly bodies. They say the raven also discovered
that a powerful chief owned the moon, which he had
hidden in some obscure place, that no one might find it.
The same chief had a daughter, who was the mother of
a young baby, and one day the raven did away with the
infant, and assuming its appearance, took its place. He
was petted and cared for, and when he disc»)vered where
the moon was kept, he begged so hard to be let in to
see it, that the chief ultimately took him into the cham-
ber. But no sooner was the supposed grandchild
there, than he again transformed himself to a raven, and
HLTNTINT, I'OK OOLn
221
SGJziiiL^ tlie uiooii ill his beak, flew away with it to Naas
country. Here th(3 Indians l>ei»:<jfctl of him to lot them
see it, to wliicli he ultimately consented, and, in the
exhuherance of their joy, they threw it so hii^h into the
heavens that it broke into many pieces, forming' the
moon, the sun and all the stars. Both these legends
are very strikinu;-, I think, and, may be, some student of
mythology and revealed religions may see in them iuter-
e«ting corroborations of ideas, expressed in other reli-
gious systems.
The population of these islands was not very large
and was steadily decreasing. I think it was estimated
at about a thousand in the year 1883, but when I first
vis ted them there were certainly a good many more.
Still, the fact that they were decreasing was made
quite manifest by the presence of a good many deserted
villages in the different parts of the group, and there
were laru'e burial ])laces with indications of funerals
O J.
enough to show that the race had been far more numer-
ous than when I knew it first. *
I have dwelt upon these people at some length,
because they greatly attracted me, and, however
imperfect my account, it may still have some interest to
my readers.
11^
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CHAPTEll 111.
Fort Simpson — On the River Skeona — "Pioiioor H. B. C." — A
Teniptinfjf Oft'er — Locatin*,'' a Push Wlutt u (rold Band J)i(l
— Keel Paint — i^ou ./o*//'- Frank's Curly Hair -Cliiof Sal-
tow-tow -White Men in tlio WildernesH — Days of Privation
A Poor Craft- Head Factor, Peter O^'den -A California
]\Ionto Bank in Victoria.
Ill the early part of September 1859 I was at Fort
Siin{)Son, ready to explore the river Skeena and pene-
trate a.s far as Fort Fraser, at the same time makinof a
survey of the country witli a view to finding a pass, as
mentioned, for the Great Canadian and Pacific Railroad
Route. My company consisted of two white men, Wil-
liam Manning, an Englishman, and Frank Choteau, a
French Canadian, besides two Indians.
Fort Simpson was at that time a post of some impor-
tance. It is situated on Chatham Sound in the extreme
ft
northwest corner of British Columbia, adjacent to what
were then Russian Possessions. Owing to its natural lo-
cation and surroundings, it enjoyed a large and lucra-
tive trade. It possessed an excellent harbor, the neigh-
boring waters abounded in fish and the land in wild ani-
mals, thus niakino: it the liuntino^ oround of a number of
large and thrifty tribes. It was the mart for all the
various northern Indians and was frequented, not only
by those of the mainland, but by a number coming
across from Queen Charlotte Islands, and Alaska. The
Fort was named after Sir George Simpson, a former
Governor of the Company; and an extensive trade had
been established between it and Victoria, steamers com-
ing up from the latter place loaded with articles adapt-
222
HlNTINd FOK COI.I)
223
ed for tlie Iiidiiui trade, and rctundiii^ with such jioods
as luid hot'ii ohtaified in uxchan^'o.
On the jtli of Si'pt(3niber I set out on my expedition
witii my little party. At our Hrst camp we made the
ac(|uaintaii<e of the Indians of these parts, who made
haste to tell us, that they were very honest people, and
demonstrated tins by n^ettini; away with my coat, while
I was asleep. We made a trip up a small stream, called
by the natives Scenatoys, and here the Indians showed
us some crystalized quartz, in one piece of whicli I
detected ijold. This was the first of its kind, I had
seen in this locality, but, although I was shown a gran-
ite slide, from where the piece was alleged to have come,
I could not find anything like a payable vein. We after-
wards explored a small river, called the Foes, and then
took to the Skeena again, making our way up the river,
where the current was grailually getting stronger and
stronger, and it took us all our time and strength to j)ull
the canoe against it. The country looked auriferous,
but, when we tried prospecting, we could only raise a
few specks to the pan. We })assed the village called
Kitchumsala, and I went ahead of the party in a small
canoe, only accompanied by an Indian. We came past
the junction of the river Chindvootch, on the southwest
side of which we found lead at the Plumbairo mouiktain,
and here my companion pointed out to me a tree, on
which had been carved many years ago the legend:
"Pioneer H. B. C." I was informed that this had
been done by Mr. John Work, one of the company's offi-
cers, and the manner in which the letters bulged from
the bark, testified, that many years had elapsed since this
daring pioneer had visited the locality.
We were now approaching the village of Kittcoonra.
The land became more level, and the mountains receded
1
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HUNTING FOK C.OI.n
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tVoiii the river l)aiik, wliilo fertile Hats extended tor tour
or five miles on each side of the river. 'I'his isdceidedly
line latinin*^ huid. and the Indians hcri' pick i)erries and
diy tlu'in for wintei- supply. Wc were takinj;- a rest on
tlu! rivi'r l)ank, when my Indian companions snddeidy
oavc a cry of alarm, and lookintjj up I pcicnved, tlnit a
whole hand of natives, inhabitants of the vilhiL^e, were
iunnin<^ down towards us, I'videntlv with no friendly in-
tent; for they were all armed and shouting- furiously, and
behind them came the women and children, ready to
carry away the i)lunder after the fray. In a case of
that kind the exhibition of utter inditi'erence is the only
satejjjuard, as the least siu^n of fear would mean death by
the Indians' bullets. So I motioned my men to lie down
on the ground and remain (juiet, while I tilled my pipe
and assumed an appearance of supreme ease. My tae-
ties were rewarded with the desired result. The Indians,
seeing no reason for hostility, (juieted down, and some
of the women came up close to me with the native
inquisitiveness of their sex. To one of them I jji'ave a
needle, but this article, small as it was, seemed to please
them all so much, that everybody came up for one, the
men laying down their weapons to get a needle. But I
was pleasantly surprised to learn these people's ideas of
reciprocity, for they at once dispatched some of the
young men to their village for venison, beaver and bear
meat, all cooked and ready for eating, and we were all
invited to sit down with them and feast. More tlian
this, when we showed signs of departing they insisted
upon us sta^-ing with them. They told me tliey would
build us a house, be friends witli us, give us all the land
we wanted, and help us cultivate potatoes; but we had to
refuse their profuse hospitality and push on up the
river.
HUNTING FOR GOLD
225
Arrived at the forks of the Skeena (called by the
Indians Kittaniaks, afterwards chaii»^ed to Hazeton) we
left the river and, walking overland, made for the Indian
village of AguUgath. The country we traveled througii
was particularly pleasing, being especially well adapted
for agricultural purposes. We dined at the village,
havinir secured some fish from the natives in trade for
tobacco and then crossed the river on an Indian suspen-
sion bridge, continuing our journey along a well-beaten
trail. The timber consisted principally of small hard-
wood and some soft wood trees, far easier to clear than
the tall pines. The land was rolling and well watered
by little streams that flowed from the distant hills, and
there were many indications of coal. Far away to the
south we saw the snow and glaciers on towering mount-
ains, which are white-capped all the year round, and
down by the river bank the growth of cottonwood and
birch pleasantly varied the scenery, which was indeed
exceedingly inviting. In this locality, finding the sur-
roundings advantageous I put up the following:
"Notice — September 22, 1859. — I have this day loca-
ted and claimed this pass, as the route of the Great Cana-
dian and Pacific Railroad. William Downie."
We were now makingc for Naas Glee and bejyan to rec-
ognize, that we were on the down grade. In fact, we
had really succeeded in coming through the only pass
from Agullgath, which is suitable for a road. As we
were traveling along here, we saw a wild goat, and one of
my Indians made chase up the mountain for it, but,
meeting with a company of three bears, he suddenly re-
membered that discretion is the better part of valor and
returned express speed. As we neared the village of
Naas Glee, we fired our pistols in the air. The effect
might be likened to what might be produced by
220
HUNTING FOR GOLD
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pokiiii^ with a stick in an aut liill. In a moment we
were surrounded by all the braves in the settlement.
They came rushing towards us armed with guns and
loiiu bowie knives, but seeing that we manifested no
fear they quieted down. I do not wish my readers to
understand, that I consider myself a more courageous
man than many others, although at the same time I have
had plenty of opportunity of proving that I possess
more personal courage than a good many. I am not
prepared to say, that this is always an advantage, for
while at times it helps to carry a man through great
perils and hardships; the same man would probably
have had a more comfortable life, minus this courage,
which often leads him into most trying circumstances,
in dealing with the Indians, I had soon perceived that
the only way of getting along with them, was to show
the utmost composure at tlie first meeting, and, while
I adopted this as a rule and always succeeded in appear-
ing calm, I am not prepared to say, that I always felt
correspondingly at ease. Yet, I must admit, that as I
now look back upon my many meetings with the red-
skins, and consider how many of my friends have fpred
among them I feel thankful that my scalp is still intact.
On this expedition I wore round my hat a gold band,
and I had frequently reason to congratulate myself upon
this fact, for it seemed to inspire the Indians with a good
deal of respect, evidently impressing them with the idea
that I was a great chief On the present occasion they
soon became very friendly, and their Tyhee, or chief,
asked me to his house His name was Tal-tow-tow or
Norra, they called him by both names, and I gave him
what small articles I could spare. But my greatest
stroke in the direction of making myself popular in this
colony was made, when I devided three yeast cans.
HUNTING FOR GOLD
227
filled with red paint, among the women and children.
Never was female vanity more satisfied, than when our
new lady friends embellished their features with large
streaks of red paint, and I doubt whether any belle of
fashionable society could think herself more attractive,
after using her co!?metics, than did these savages, after
daubing themselves with the paint.
We discovered that this villasfe was situated on the
Skeena, and thus, having left this river five days ago, we
had now struck it again higher up. We also here obser-
ved traces of French influence for the first time, for the
Indians hailed us with the words honjour; but later on
we discovered that all through these regions many
French words were used by the Indians as a result of
their intercourse with French traders.
We were well entertained by the natives who feasted
us in one of their ln)uses, and I was given the seat of
honor with my white companions next to me. The
women seemed much amused at Frank's hair, which was
very curly — a fact that evidently puzzled them a good
deal, as the Indians' hair is always straight. They
would steal up from behind and pull the hairs out of his
head. Then they would hold it out straight between
both hands and, letting go at one end, appeared much
surprised when the hair curled up again. By and by
Frank's head began to get sore, and he objected to the
sport. "Never mind, Frank," I said, trying to soothe
his ruffled temper, "It is only female curiosity."
"Female curiosity or not," grumbled Frank, "I don't
want them to pluck all the hairs out of my head, as if I
was some bird being prepared for cooking — oh! Ther
let go, you : "
And Frank brushed off a woman's hand, which was
trying to rob him of another lock.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
Naas Glee is a center, where all the upcountry Indians
meet at certain seasons. The head factor of Fort St.
James sends a boat down here at certain times, and a
large trade in dried fish and other articles is carried on.
I began to fear, that I should not be able to reach the
Fraser,as I was told that it was about ten days' journey
away from where we were, and the Indians were gradu-
ally robbing me of all I had to depend upon for further
trade with the natives. I realized that I had to get out
as soon as possible, and, after some persuasions, I
succeeded in getting Tal-tow-tow to go with me. He
provided a canoe and some dried fish, and we started up
the river, exceedingly glad to leave our hosts, whose
hospitality had been well counterbalanced by the per-
sistency with which they had wrung from us a great
many things, both necessaries and trading articles.
About ten miles up the river we passed the village
Whatatt, and above this we came to Babine Lake,
traveling now through exceptionally fine country.
It was just about daylight the next morning, and I
had crawled out of my blanket, wdien to my surprise I
saw^ a boat approaching, filled with Europeans. The
man at the helm turned out to be a Mr. Gavin Hamilton,
and his crew^ were Canadians. He came from Fort St.
James and was on his way to Naas Glee for dried fish,
furs, etc. He was very much surprised to see us and
told me that he had never heard of any other white man
succeeding in traveling over the route w^e had come by.
He insisted upon taking my Indian chief back with him,
as he said he could do nothing at Naas Glee without
him and would most likely be robbed of all he had in
place of making trade, and when I remonstrated with
him and told him, that I could not go on without a
guide not knowing the way, he smiled and said, that a
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man, who had been ahle to visit Naas Glee as a strantrer
and come out as well as I had done, might go anywhere.
He had no rations to spare us but finally arranged that
we should take Tal -tow-tow's canoe, and that the chief
should return with him, and he gave us a letter for Mr.
Peter Ogden, in charge of Fort St. James, who was the
same gentleman after whom the city of Ogden in Utah
has been named.
I had sent both my Indians with Mr. Hamilton, and
it proved a fortunate thing for us. We were supposed
to be only five days' journey from Fort St. James, and
on our first day's sail we made Fort Killman, which at
that period was unoccupied. It reared its lofty palisa-
insc in the silent wilderness with not a sound issuinof
from behind the closed doors. There was sometliino;
uncanny about the lonely little fort, and we left it
behind without regret. According to Mr. Hamilton we
had now another four days' journey before us, but we
soon realized, that we could not cover the distance in
that time. Babine Lake is about one hundred miles
long, and, whenever we could do so, we used our blank-
ets as sails. The scenery along the shore was very
pleasmg, and, under more favorable circumstances, we
could have enjoyed the trip very much, but rations were
getting low and we had been out five days, when we
reached the head of the lake and we took the trail for
the next watershed. Lake Stewart. So we abandoned
our canoes and made our way through the forest. Here,
for the first time on our journey, did we see the track of
a wagon, but, strange to say, it was over ten years since
the ruts were furrowed in the soil. Previous to that
time the Company had a wagon road to Lake Babine,
but it was then abandoned. We packed our traps along
the trail and came upon a camp at a small lake, where
HUNTING FUR GOLD
231
an Indian family was camping and hunting. Tliey
seemod much surprised at our appoarace, and in ex-
change for some tobacco and paint, gave us a few dried
fish, and helped us carry our pack to Stewart Lake,
which was not far distant. Nevertheless the assistance
was very welcome, for we had had so little to eat for a
day or two, that the eifect of privation began to tell
upon us.
Arrived at Stewart Lake we looked in vain for a
canoe, which we expected to find there. Things
were beginning to look ugly. Fort St. James was away
at the other end of the lake, but we could not possibly
walk that distance in our reduced condition, and we sat
down very much after the fashion of McCawber, "wait-
ing for something to turn up." Driven by hunger and
despondency, for I did not expect to get any more pro-
visions till we reached Fort St. James, I attempted to
eat grass in order to save our own scanty supply, but it
would not go down, and the experiment demonstrated
to me, that Nebuchadnezzar must have had pretty hard
times of it, when he took to bovine fare.
At last we found a very old canoe. It was split from
stem to stern and apparently of no use at all, but neces-
sity is the mother of invention, and we lashed a drift
log to each side of it, hoping by this contrivance and in-
cessant balino; to be able to travel down the lake. After
experiencing considerable difficulty in making our frail
craft answer its purpose, we succeeded in getting down
about five miles, when we suddenly shipped a sea, that
nearly swamped us, but just in the nick of time we per-
ceived an Indian fishing close under the shore. We
hailed him, and he at once came to our rescue and
brought us safe to his camp, where we were fed on fresh
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
trout and a meal, the enjoyment of which is yet fresh
in my memory.
Once more we succeeded in makint; friends of our
Indian hosts. They did not understand nmcli English
but could speak a little French, and Frank, who was a
Canadian and could converse in that language, piloted
us through this difficulty and arranged with the Indian
that he should take us to Fort St. James, receivinsr
as remuneration one blanket. It is strange, how
soon a man forgets his troubles. We had now plenty
to eat and a chance soon to get to Fort St. James, and
all our troubles seemed to be at an end. We ran down
the coast before a fair wind, going ashore when it
became too rough. The scenery gradually changed,
and towards the lower end of the lake the country
became more rocky and barren looking, while the air
became colder, and we experienced a slight fall of snow.
On the 9th of October we arrived at Fort .St. James,
just eleven days after parting with Mr. Hamilton, For
four consecutive days we had had nothing to eat, and it
had several times during the whole trip appeared to me
as if our chances of reaching our destination were very
slim. But now we were in clover. Mr. Oixden received
us very kindly, and we soon recovered from our hard-
ships.
After a two days' sojourn we left m company with
Mr. Oixden. He was (joinyj to Fort Fraser, but we had
determined to go to Fort George and from there to Fort
Alexandria, and at the former place we parted company
W'ith the genial head factor, who had treated us so kind-
ly. Fort Alexandria, or as it is generally called, Alex-
ander, is an interesting place It is called after the
famous explorer and traveler. Sir Alexander McKenzie,
and I believe it is the oldest fort of all, being founded
HUNTING FOR GOLD
233
in 1793. It was, when I visited it, a fort of niuch
importance. The surrounding country was open and
picturesque and afforded splendid hunting ground.
Hence the Indians congregated here, and the Company
did a large amount of trading in this neighborhood,
while at the same time the post served as a depot for
receiving produce, gathered in other distant districts.
We now made down the river and soon found ourselves
in a mining region. At several places we passed mining
camps, but I generally found the men as taciturn as
they had appeared to me when I made my debut on the
Californian gold fields. One of the few places, where
we met with a welcome, was in a camp belonging to a
Mr. Kirk and his partner Mr. Nichol. They were not
working when we arrived there, because the ground was
frozen; but they had been doing pretty well on their
claim, averaging from three to four ounces a day. They
were very pleased to see us, and shared with us what
cheer they had, andin their agreeable company I dreamed
myself back again to California in the early days and
thought of many pleasant scenes under similar conditions.
There was now a good deal of ice on the river. It
came drifting in floes and often menaced our safety, but
we pushed on and soon reached the mouth of the
Quesnelle river. There was quite an accumulation of
men here. New diiri^insfs had been struck, and those on
the ground had come to winter, so as to be ready at the
first dawn of spring
We stayed here for several days to gather all possible
information about the place and ascertained that some
good gold had been already found here, while hopes
were bright in anticipation of coming revelation, when
spring should return. We also met several Californians
here, who gave us a royal reception and spoke of old
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days. At Big Creek we al)aiKlonod our canoe and took
the trail for Haskells. Here I met my old ])artner from
California, Alexander McDoiiald, who was minini^ iu
this neitjhborhood, and I went to work with him for
awhile, but the weather was gcttini^ very cold and the
g^round hard, and I concluded to make my way hack to
Victoria, where I arrived at the close of November.
I had been away for nearly three months and certainly
seen a great deal of the country. His Excellency,
Governor Douglas received my report very favorably
and ordered my expenses paid, which was done accord-
ingly.
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CHAPTER IV.
Surveying the Inlets — Looking for a Wagon Road to the Fraser
— Jarvis Inlet — An Awful Ravine — Desolation Sound — All
by Myself — The Bears Came Rushing Down — The Kle-ua-
Kleue River — Bella Coola — Dean Canal — A Land Boom —
False Reports — ]Mr, Tovalloit Prevaricates — Spearing Salmon
Indians from Fort Fraser — After Gold on the Nasse.
Having given an account of my trip in company with
Mr. McKay, and my subsequent journey through the
country to Fort James, I now come to my exph)ration of
Jarvis Inlet, which is situated about thirtv miles west of
Howe Sound. It will be remembered that Governor
Douglas, who by this time was known as Sir James
Douglas, had an idea that it would be possible to find a
shorter and easier ronte to the Upper Fraser than the
one which we had pointed out to him, via Howe Sound
and the Silooet Lake, and with a view to ascertaining
whether such a possibility did exist, I traveled along the
coast making a survey of the various inlets.
I found Jarvis Inlet piercing the coast line to a depth
of about sixty miles, stretching inland in a northeasterly
direction. There was every appearance of our finding a
pass through the mountains here. At the entrance to
the inlet we met several Bridge River Indians, and with
them for our guides, penetrated to the head, and aftei'
two days' hard journeying we found ourselves in a can-
yon entirely closed in by steep mountains. Never in my
life have I beheld such a scene as presented itself to our
wondering gaze in this solitude. We were completely
shut in by this wild nature. On either hand, lofty
mountains reared their precipitous sides far above us
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pointing toward the leaden overcast sky, and looking like
threatening giants guarding the entrance to some land
of mystery. Not a vestige of vegetation; not a brush
on the bare, solenm-looking rocks as they cast their
gloomy shadow over the ravine below, making us feel
like prisoners behind barred and bolted gates. Ahead
ot us lay a field of unsurmountable glaciers, forming a
barrier to any further progress, and giving to the situa-
tion additional awe and errandeur. In the loneliness of
nature, where the great architect has deprived her of the
charms which in other places adorn her, I have always
found something wonderfully impressive, far exceeding
in force, the enthusiasm called forth by the smiling and
pleasing scenery. It has always appeared to me in this
solemn situation as if I stood face to face with the angry
Jehovah, who stretched forth his hand to remind human
beings of their utter insiijnificance.
Such was the impression I received in this instance,
as I found myself absolutely enclosed in the ravine which
had just one opening for ingress and egress alike. When
I asked the Indians how they proposed for us to proceed
any further, they said that we should have to ascend the
glaciers in the best way we could, and pull one another
up by ropes. "And the wagons — .'* " I asked. " Pull
them up after you! " came the reply. It was very evi-
dent that this settled all prospects of making a wagon
road by this route, when the only way was to climb gla-
ciers and pull the vehicles up afterwards, and I therefore
gave up all ideas of satisfying gubernatorial expectations
on this point. We camped here for the night, and spent
a wretched tmie waiting; for dawn to break. The rain
came down in torrents, falling over the steep sides of the
mountains in cascades and filling the ravine, so to speak.
Our traps — even our Drovisions — were carried away, and
HUNTING FOR GOLD
237
we had to stand up most of tin- night holding on to our
blankets and utensils, for fear of seeing them carried
away by the waters and the violent gusts of wind that
came down upon us — the sweeping breath of angry
elements.
In March, 1859, I made my first inspection of Deso-
lation Sound, situated about sixty miles west of Jarvis'
Inlet. This time I was the only white man in the com-
pany and was accompanied by a party of Indians. We
went in a canoe up through the channel between the
mainland and Redonda Island, and rounding Bret-
tell Point and Snout Point, made our way into
Toba Inlet. We penetrated to the head of this
water, and then proceeded to ascend the river
which has its mouth here. The land on either side
of this stream we found to be low, sandy and over-
flowed, but some distance from the mouth the moutains
began to rise to considerable altitudes. It was not pos-
sible to proceed in the canoe more than four or five
miles from the Inlet, and we reconnoitered the land on
foot. I found the mountains on the western shore to be
higher than those opposite. On the eastern side there
was an Indian trail crossing to Jarvis' Inlet, but the
ridge on the western side could only be traversed by
goats and bears, of which there seemed to be a great
many. The bears came tearing down the mountain-
side, to welcome us, but we did not stop to shake hands,
preferring to wave them our adieu from the canoe. I
thought it possible to penetrate from here to Bridge
River, but the Indians told me it would take at least a
month to reach a group of small lakes where that stream
takes its rise.
It was very evident to me that my purpose of mak-
ing a wagon road by this route could not be accom-
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Hl'NTINC. FOR (lOI.I)
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jilislicd, iuul r tlioi'i't'or*' iH'cpaitMl to return. I did a lit-
tle prosjH'ctiiii;' first, and caiiK' upon sluti', (jnartz and
indications of ('o|)[)er, but nothinij;- ol' any yi-cat Kii.nnli-
cancc, and as a nienicnto of my visit, I carvel my iiamu
U}M»u a tree and departed tVom tiicse ([uaitcrs.
The next inlet upon tiiis coast, is Hutu lidct Of
tliis place, and my experience of it, I will .si)eak later,
and lueanwhilo pass on to the next inlet, known us
Loborouujli Inlet. It is situated about twenty miles
west of Bute, and is surrounded by towerinj^" mount-
ains, while glaciers aboundetl in these regions. During
the suiDHier mouths, the Indians from the surrouniling
tribes, comc! down here and tisli, but none of theui stay
to winter in this locality. The place is wild and inac-
cessible, and when the winter gales sweep over it, and
the snow lies on the mountains, it offers but a very unin-
vitiuL'' abode for human beinu^s. There are no settled
tribes of Indians in this region, and when the summer
season is at end, the whole country assumes an appear-
ance of utter desolation and loneliness. I could not find
any chances in this locality of building a wagon road,
and once more turned my steps westward.
The reader who is unfamiliar with the map of British
Columbia, by examining it for a moment, will easily fol-
low ]' '^ explorations of the various inlets, as they were
un'^ jn, one after the other; and will also readily
t'ti the anxiety and vigor with which these explo-
. lons were being pushed, for the sole purpose t)f afford-
inir li'reater traveling; facilities for the miners, who, com-
ing from Victoria, made the upper Fraser their destina-
tion. At that time, when the country had been but lit-
tle explored, and the exact course of the Fraser was but
imperfectly known, it was naturally to be supposed that
there would be some way of making a cross-country
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
road to the gold fields, by taking advantage of the riv-
ers and lakes, which in so many places afforded excellent
means of traveling. Moreover, the natives had shown
the invaders how to utilize the sheets of water which
intersected their home in so many places. The idea of
portages originated with them, and the canoes were
easily carried along the trail leading from one lake to
the other.
I must admit that, in common with many others, I
had lontr e"*tertained the idea of such a travelinof route.
I had furinermore as an old miner taken much pleasure
in looking for the possibility of finding one, and in order
to realize this, had freely spent my money so far in vain
endeavors to strike a trail that would answer the pur-
pose. Having disposed of Laborough and found nothing
there to work upon, I next turned my attention to
Knisfht's Inlet.
This is one of the deepest and most formidable inlets
on the coast. It runs east from Gilford Island for
many miles and then turns north running in that direc-
tion, with a few curves, to its head, where the Kle-na-
Klene Kiver falls into it. At this point the land is open
as far as the eye can reach, and we saw plenty of upland
Indians, who came down here to trade for grease. I
made two trips to the head of this inlet, but could not
discover anything which would warrant a wagon road
toward the Eraser. The natives, with whom I here
came in contact, gave me some information about the
intirior. They said that it took one month and a half
to travel to their country, which must therefore have
been situated quite a distance away, but at the same
time they had never heard of the Fraser river nor of the
gold land. This made me think that these Indians
lived considerably to the west of Fraser River, for my
HUNTING FOR GOLD
241
experience was that Indians living as far from the Fraser
as Lillooet, knew all about the river, and the gold to be
found there. More than this; an Indian on my trip
through the Babine Lake district had told me how on
the Fraser he had met the white men, and received a
pair of pants in exchange for a salmon. The natives I
met at KniMit's Inlet ixave me nmch information about
the interior, and I had once more to abandon the idea
of finding a starting point on the coast for the desired
route.
My next expedition went to Bella Coola. This river,
which rushes down from the Cascade Mountains, falls
into the sea through Burke Channel, inside which the
South Bentinck and North Bentinck Arm spread into
the surrounding lowland. The North Arm may be
called the inoutli of the river, while the South Bentinck
stops more abruptly. The entrance to the interior
therefore i^oes throuo;h the North Bentinck, but it was
soon found inpracticable to establish a wagon road by
this route. The country further up the river becomes
mountainous, and unfit for any such purpose as ours, and
I had to give it up. But I was not the only one who had
suffered defeat in this respect, as regards Bella Coola.
Two gentlmen, Messrs. Harrison and Goolidge, spent
several months in attempting to penetrate from the
North Branch to the Fraser, but failed in their attempts,
although they were particularly well equipped for the
undertaking.
Separated from Burke Channel by a thin strip of land
is Dean Canal, being the mouth of Dean, or Salmon
River. My next expedition went up this inlet, and
although I followed the river for quite a distance, I
failed to find a suitable road. Toward the fall of every
year the natives come down from New Caledonia to
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
trade here and return again on snow-shoes, but just as
surely as the flowers awake in the spring, these men
come back with the returning season to trade. I had
expected to see some of the Chilcotin Indians here, but
was disappointed. At the time when I paid my visit to
Dean Canal, there was quite an excitement in the real
estate offices in Victoria, owing to the fact that a boom
had been started in a quiet way in regard to the land on
Dean Creek. It was predicted that land, bought in
tlii" district;, would soon increase many fold in value, and
tha^ a better townsite could not be found. Consequently
about one thousand acres were soon taken up by the
knowing ones of Victoria, and expectations ran high.
I should have thought they might just as w^U have
speculated in making a townsite on the sides of Mount
Baker or Mount Hamilton, as at the head of any of the
inlets that I frequented in my search for a wagon road,
and I would not personally have given ten dollars for the
whole area.
In connection with this I am put in mind of some of
the tricks practiced for the purpose of inducing people
to buy land in this locality. A Mr. Tovalloit, who was
interested in the scheme, had the audacity to spread the
report that he came on horseback from Fort Alexandria,
on the Fraser River, to Dean Canal in seven days. I
was told exactly where he claimed to have reached the
water, and examined the place minutely, with the result
that I doubted very much the truth of the story. Mr.
Tovalloit also claimed to have come by Chilcotin Lake,
but I learned afterwards from friends of mine who had
been of the party, that this was not so. They left for
Alexandria to go to the lake, but on the third day out
they returned again, and up to that time Mr. Tovalloit
had never seen it. This will show how easily people
HUNTING FOR GOLD
243
r.
ad
oit
may be deceived in regard to location of country, tlie
geography of which they know nothing about. Had it
been possible to establish a seven-days communication
between the coast and Fort Alexandria at this place,
land would certainly have been of great value; but the
possibility was entirely problematic. Mr. Tovalloit was a
prevaricator of the truth, to use a polite term; and there
was absolutely no reason to think that a wagon road
would ever be built between the two points.
I next directed my attention towards Kitlobe River.
In reference to this, too, gross misrepresentations had
been published, and among other things it had been des-
cribed as navigable. I soon discovered that it was not.
The inlet stretches far inland, until the Kitlobe River
falls into it, the latter springing somewhere in the south-
eastern corner of the Chilicotin plateau. But this river
was far from being navigable as reported. On the
contrary, I found it one of the most difficult rivers on
the coast to ascend. The country was wild, in some
places almost impassable, and while it was shown on the
maps as nearly reaching to the Chilcotin, such was by
no means the case. I had the satisfaction, through the
press of Victoria, of drawing the attention of the public
to these misstatements, and thus corrected a serious
error in the minds of speculators in the Fraser river
route, which I did not for one moment believe could be
established here.
During^ the fishing; season the Indians on the Kitlobe
River sit perched upon the rocks and spear the fish.
With marvelous aim they throw the weapon from con-
siderable liights, and pierce the beautiful salmon far
below. The Indians from New Caledonia cross this riv-
er in making their annual trips to Dean Canal
At the head of Kildalah Inlet is the river of the same
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
name. It rushes forth between steep mountain verges,
and affords but a poor and dangerous navigation. I
took much interest in conversingr with the natives here.
Some of them told me that they had come all the way
from Fort Fraser, and described the country on the oth-
er side of the range, as level and easy to travel. The
distance between this point and Fort Fraser is quite
considerable, and they must have come by the way of
the Fraser Lake, the French Lake, and across the Chil-
cotin plateau.
The Kitimax River comes from the north, running
almost at a ri^ht anLfle to the Kildalah. It is a fine
largo river, which runs through an open valley that
stretched its verdant pastures towards the Skeena, and
as we traveled up the stream, we were much impressed
by the surrounding country. The Indians here told us
that it was only a matter of four days to reach the
Skeena, and we made that river in the time stated.
Of my exploration on the Skeena I have already
spoken. Myself and two companions were in reality the
first white men who croj-sod from the coast to the Fraser
River, but Mr. Alfred Waddington, v."ho was jealous of
my successful explorations of that part of British Colum-
bia, took pains on several occasions to ignore the fact
that I was the one who led the first expedition, and
wrote about the route in such a manner as to make it
appear as if indeed he was the first to penetrate the
previously unknown country. However, I was quite
willinsjc that he should induloje in a little imao-ination on
this point; I only wished that he should as well have
some of the days of hunger and cold, with which we paid
for the honor of being the pioneer explorers of this route.
I went up the river Nasse about one hundred miles.
My expedition on this.streani was undertaken principally
HUNTINO FOR GOLD
245
for tliG purpose of prospecting, as I luul been told that
there was plenty of gold here. I spent quite a time on
the river, making careful examinations of the various
localities but not with any satisfactory results. There
was undoubtedly traces of gold in many places, and in
some the metal might be found in small quantities; but
I could not find any place wliere it would pay over two
dollars a day, and therefore it was not worth while
working. Erom my experience, and examination of the
Pacific Coast, I judge that from Washington Territory
to Alaska, all along the coast of British Columbia, there
are no placer di 'Agings, which are worth working, whereas
it appears to me that some of the baser metals may be
work. 1 to advantage.
From what has already been written it nmst be })rctty
evident that there was a stron^r desire to establish an
outlet from the interior countrv, somewhere on the
coast, and it will be also seen that I was not the only
one who had attempted to locate such a station. Indeed,
at the time I refer to, there were any amount of explorers
in the field, but a good many of them did not amount to
much. They would receive so nmch money for going
out to look for a certain pass, and that would be the
last heard of them.
I have hitherto spoken of such undertakings as aimed
at locating a pass for a wagon road, but the idea had also
become dominant that it would be possible to find, some-
where in the mountains, a pass that would allow of a rail-
road beino; brouijht down to the coast; and Bute Inlet
was the favorite locality, where it was thought possible
to realize this project. Bute Inlet goes far into the
land, and at its extreme head the Homalko River falls
into its waters, running almost due south, while the
Southgate River joins the inlet on the eastern shore, a
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little further down. The mountains beliind are wild nnd
precipitous, the river is ditticult to navigate, in some
places rendering portage necessary, and at others being
HUed with drift wood, thus constantly menacing the
frail crafts that come up here; the canoes of the natives
being the oidy possible conveyance upon this swiftl\'
rushing stream.
In order to ascertain whether a projected railroad
might be brought to Bute Inlet, to be there connected
with Vancouver Island, a meeting was held in the early
part of '61 at the old government building in the city of
Victoria, where now stands the postoffice. A number
of prominent business men and professional men were
present, and I also recollect seeing Lady Franklin there,
the widow^ of the renow^ned Arctic exj)lorer, Sir John
Franklin, whose tragic fate had attracted so much
attention some years before. Among others, who that
night discussed the possibilities of Bute Inlet, were Dr.
Helmeken, a Mr. Burnaby, and Mr. Alfred Waddington.
I have already had occasion to mention the last named
gentleman. He was nmch interested in the further
development of the countr}', and to him the establish-
ment of a railroad terminus at Bute Inlet was a matter
of vast importance, wherefore, he also took a prominent
part in the proceedings of the evening, during which it
was proposed to send an exploring party to the head of
the inlet, to report upon the conditions of the country.
In the general discussion that took place, I strenu-
ously opposed the idea of paying anybody in advance.
I suggested that parties willing to explore the country,
might do so at their own cost, and if they returned with
bona fide ronorts, they should be remunerated for their
trouble, whether successful or not. I reasoned that pay-
ing in advance would give the men employed a chance to
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
247
go half way only and come back without having
attempted to find the pass; and, indeed, I knew a party
just ready to start on some such proposition, wait-
ing only to receive cheque in advance.
As soon as the meeting was over, I met my partners,
and urged them to join me in exploring Bute Inlet. I
was somewhat disgusted when they at once refused,
saying that they had arranged to go higher up the coast,
but after a little persuasion I made them agree to take
me up there with them at all events, and we set out on
the voyage,
I laid in a stock of supplies, enough to carry me
through for several months, also brought with me an
extra quantity of tobacco for the natives. Tobacco
among the Indians, in many cases, acts as the golden
key to the secret you wish to possess; and it is when
this luxury gives out, that the explorer need have seri-
ous apprehensions as to the issue of his next negotiation
with the red sons of the soil.
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CHAPTER \.
My Partners — ViKiting Friends — The Village of Tsawatti — Vil-
lainous Indians — Anxious Moments — Friends in Need — Bute
Inlet — On the Homathco — Auxiliary Hi vers — Wonderful
Hcener}' — Glaciers Ahead — A Sick Indian — Great Hardsliips—
The Tequahan and the Meinria — Poor Luck — What a News-
paper Wrote.
I have spoken of my partners, and I may now intro-
duce them to my readers. They v/ere Aleck McDonald
and Harry Harlan, both of them experienced miners and
good fellows. I had mined with Aleck on the Yuba,
years before; had camped with him on the Upper
Fraser, when I succeeded in reaching those parts, and
we had become fast friends, havino; shared the danucers
and trials of a rough and adventurous life. Sometime
prior to the meeting just referred to, the three of us had
purchased a small schooner, and gone up the coast for
the purpose of prospecting, and of this trip I will give
a brief account.
Runninof alono* the west coast of Vancouver Island we
called in at Nanaimo, where we spent a couple of days
with old friends, among whom let me remember, Captain
Stewart, Doctor Benson, Mr. Home, Mr. Dunsmuir
and others.
We next made a call at Fort Rupert, where Mr.
Winter and Captain Mitchell received us with that lav-
ish hospitality, for which the Hudson Bay Company
officers had become famous among their friends, and,
leavincj them with some reluctance, we now cut across
Queen Charlotte Sound and threading our way through
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
249
the labyrinth of island.s, witli wliicli this water is stud-
ded, we sailed through **One-Tree Passage," and ^steerino;
for Knight Inlet, made oui' way toward the liead of
this water, where is situated the Indian village of
Tsawatti. We had been up this way before, and it was
now our intention to prospect the mountains behind the
village, having previously found along the inlet, lead,
copper and other minerals, one of which we took to be
silver.
Our little vessel was richly laden with trade for the
Indians, and we had blankets and tobacco in abundance.
It was arrano^ed that Aleck should jro ashore at Tsawatti.
taking with him a certain amount of trade and, while
we made an examination of the coast-line, he should
take the initiative in the hills.
We ran ashore as near the. village as possible, and
beoan dischargiuL*" the i^oods that were to be left with
Aleck, who proposed to take quarters in an Indian cabin
a short distance up the hill, whither the boxes and
parcels were carried. Meanwhile a number of strange
Indians had put in their appearance. They filled the
cabin which was to serve as a store-house and beo-an to
swarm around our vessel in canoes, looking anything but
friendly.
If the reader has ever seen the heavy villain in a five-
act drama of the blood-and-thunder school, overdomg, as
he thought, the important role entrusted to his careful
acting, he will have seen, as a rule, a fair representation
of these Indians who were heavy villains without the
least effort on their part. Their brows were knitted
and their eyelids lowered, thus producing a hideous
scowl.
The orthodox blanket was thrown over the left
shoulder in the manner of a Spanish cape, and to the
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practiced observer the general posture of the body, as
revealed by tlie folds of the l)lanket, demonstrated that
their hands clutched sonic murderous wea[)on, whether
a knife or a pistol, held reatly to be used at a moment's
notice.
I had been so busy arran^iii*;' our car^o in the hold,
that I had scarcely noticed the natives Hocking around
our vessel. Not so with Aleck. The space in the
cabin had gradually become smaller and smaller, the air
more stiHintj, the chatteringof the natives grown louder,
while the situation assumed a cliaracter, not at all
pleasing to my companion, who leftthe boxes, which had
been stowed away in the cabin, and came down to con-
sult with me.
"I don't like the looks of these fellows, Major," he
said, "those that belonix here, I think are all rio'ht, but
the strangers look ugly enough."
I made up my mind right then, that Aleck should
not be left alone in this place. "Get the goods down
again !" I said, "we will ship them and proceed."
My friend left me, but shortly after returned, stating
that they would not permit him to take anything away.
I immediately went ashore; seizing the nearest fellow
by the arm I pointed to a bide of blankets: "Put them
on your shoulder and carry them down there I" I said,
at the same time gesticulating to make my meaning
clear.
I don't believe the man understood a word of Ensxlish,
but he obeyed me at once. There is a universal langua^'e,
which everybody can under.stand, but only few can
speak. It has no words of its own, but it depends upon
accentuation more than anything else, as I learned in
in the course of my life's schooling. It was but a matter
of a few minutes when I had everybody carrying for
HUNTING FOR GOLD
251
me, and the o-oods were heiti<' returned wholesale, to the
evident disj^ust of the wily Indians, who had hoped for
plunder, while I now merely paid my carriers a few
pieces of tobacco in return for their services.
But the trouble was not over yet. By this time the
Indians were swarming upon the deck of our little vessel,
and upon my return to it, they had blocked the ganjjj-
way so that I could not get aboard for some time; when
at last I reached the deck, I called my men below, and we
at once made our arsenal ready for use. We had plenty
of guns, pistols, balls and powder, and had just broken
into a keg of the latter. I told the boys, and they
agreed with me, that if we found we were getting the
worst ot it, I should throw a match into the powder-keg,
thus showing our charitable disj)osition by taking our
enemies aloft with us, rather than let them cut us to
pieces.
Meanwhile the Redskins continued to hold possession
of the deck. They were e\idently in a quandary, not
knowmg how to begin the fray, for they had perceived
that we had headed them off, and ever so much better
armed than they were. Just as we thought that time
was nearly up for the first round to begin, a large canoe
shot across the waters toward our vessel, but to our sur-
prise tlie warriors in the canoe came to render us assist-
ance. They had heard of the plight we were in and
now a few words from them quickly persuaded the enemy
to abandon oar vessel, but not till he had, with the
polish of a thorough villain, assured us that everything
was all right, that we were all friends and that we had
quite misunderstood their move. I assured them in
return that if that powder keg had been heard from
there would have been no occasion for them to misunder-
stand our move in the matter, and from that day hence-
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forth I novor took a Kiii«jrlit Inlet Indian at his word.
On tliat same expediticni we went up the Skeena and
arrived near Fort Simpson just as the Indians were
about to have a hiij^ fiijflit. They recognized us, however,
anil kindly sent word to us, asking us to go below as
they were going to shoot. Indian warfare differs some-
what from our mode of killing in battle. The Indians
go on shooting till somebody is hurt, and then by a
signal they stop to see what can be done further. After
a little while the battle is taken up again. This some-
what retards bloodshed and limits casualties, unlike the
more civilized mode of warfare, which takes particular
pains to kill as many as possible. If the medicine man
falls in battle, and he did not succeed in pulling his last
patient through, his scalp is eagerly sought by the
survivors. If the scalps of Medicos in more civilized
connnunities were a little less safe than they are, probably
there would be a good deal less quackery in that, other-
wise most estimable, profession.
On this trip we made the discovery of what we took
to be rich lead ore. We had a quantity shipped for
London, and a man went to England to look after it, but
neither man nor ore was ever heard of since and, while
some charged fraud, I think it more likely that the ore
was shoveled on board some other vessel as ballast.
I now ]:)roceed to speak of my expedition to Bute
Inlet. It was one of the most important undertakings,
with which I was connected in British Columbia, and,
althouuh I did not succeed at the time in crossiiii' the
range personally, our experiences there had much to do
with the later success of Aleck McDonald, who was
indeed the first white man to perform the feat of traversing
the mountains at the head of Bute Inlet.
We arrived here on the third day of July 1861, having
HUNTING FOK GOLD
253
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traveled about 225 miles since leavinj; Victoria. On
either side the shore rises boldly. The inlet is Tiavigable
for whips of any size, and there is particularly <;ood
aii('hora_i(e at several places, where the fresh water
streams join the inlet, which averages a width of one
mile and a half and is clear of reefs and sunken rocks.
At the head of the iidet on the west side, close to the
shore, the bottom is sandy in twenty fathoms of water,
and splendid shelter is afforded against the southwester
blowing up the iidet. I have already mentioned the
principal rivers, falling into the inlet, of which the
Homathco is the most important. The back country
Indians come down to the coast by this river for the
purpose of obtaining sahnon, and I determined to ascend
it. We experienced considerable trouble in getting
sufficient Indians to take us up the river. The natives
here are not very easy to get along with, and I had to
use all my tact and powers of persuasion in order to
enlist eight men, who finally agreed to aecom[)any
McDonald and myself on our expedition.
On the 7th of July we started up the river. We had
sufficient supplies with us to take us over the mountains,
and we had three canoes, I heading the procession
with two natives. The course of the river winds through
sandy fiats, thickly timbered. The timber however is
very light, and the soil formed by the continual wash
from the mountains. On the western shore we saw the
snow mantling the distant hills and on the first day of
our journey we passed two glaciers. We found that the
tide came up as far as ten miles, thus rendering it pos-
sible for small steamers to go up that distance at high
water. The formation of the rock varied somewhat,
being principally granite on our western shore, while on
the opposite bank we found slate, intermixed with strag-
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HUNTING FOR COLD
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gling veins of (juartz. At one place on this slioro we
observed a lar«(e mountain, the appearance of which
indicated minerals, and I followed a reddish vein, think-
ing that it might contain something, but was disappointed.
On the second day the river current increased in
velocitj', and we foresaw that it would be a difficult task
to ascend the stream. At one place my Indians failed
to keep the head of the canoe to the current; she
turned first broadside and then bottom up. In one
moment we were all in the water. I saw what was
coming, and warned my companions, but they did not
heed in time. I caught my pistol belt and clambered on
to a drift loof which took me down the stream towards
the other canoes, but for some time I looked in vain for
the Indians. It did not take me louii; to meet McDon-
aid and his crew, who picked me up, and by this time
my late companions had reached the shore, where they
stood shiverino; after their cold bath, while we went in
pursuit of the escaping canoe, and soon overtook it. It
had sustained considerable damage, while everythini>' in
it had, of cours'fe, dropped out, and it was quite n loss,
under the circumstances.
The worst of it all was tliat the Indians had become
so scared at the accident, that they positively refused to
l)roceed further, and after nmch talking and arguing, we
ultimately persuaded them to let us have a canoe in
in exchanixe for blankets and shirts, as we were deter-
mined to push on towards the head of the river, Indians
or no Indians. We now sent down to the vessel for
more supplies in place of those we had lost, and, hav-
ing received the goods, we made another start with only
two Indians for my companions, one of whom was a
chief.
Some way up the river we came to an auxiliary, join-
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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in<»- the Homathco from the east. This stream was
called by the Indians who live there, the Hickhanum,
the name of their own tribe. It iiowed swiftly, with
stontr current, but an Indian chief assured us that if we
would only push up the stream, in the course of one day
we should reach some very fine land, throu|n|"h a narrow
pass further up. We took the man at liis word, and set
out to find the place.
The journey was a dangerous one, and we made slow
progress through woodland, and Hats covered with rocky
bowlders, until we heard above us the deafning sound of
rushing waters. Presently we came to a deep chasm.
From between the narrow walls a muddy stream rushed
forth, stirring tlie waters of the already turbulent stream,
and filling the air with a thundering noise. I conject-
ured, at once, that the water came from a glacier, and
we ascended the rocks forming the chasm, when, sure
enoii'jh, we beheld the o-lacierlyino; between two mount-
ains which rose abruptly on either side.
The glacier was distant about one mile, and we
reached it by traversing a bowlder flat. This was the
first glacier I had ever seen coming down to level
ground. It was, apparently, over one mile wide, and
extended back as far as the eye could reach, in an east-
erly direction.
I was much impressed with the surrounding nature of
this locality. From behind, the woodlands wafted their
fragrant breezes up the chasm, filling the air with an
odor of life; and a number of small swallows playfully
chased one another in the golden rays of a hot July sun.
And there in front of us the grim picture of winter, as
we descended the hucje block of ice with all the varied
hues of transparent blue, green and gold where the sun-
beams were making inroads through the crevices, trying
HUNTING FOR GOLD
257
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in vain to soften the ponderous mass. And these very-
crevices leadinof into caverns of eternal frost and dark-
ness, traversed by ice-cold sti'eanis, but never lighted or
warmed bv the beneficent sun. As I stood tliere, look-
int»* backward and then a^^ain forward, it seemed to me as
if I stood somewhere between life and death.
In this wilderness I naturally wanted to know what
the trail was sup])osed to be, and my Indian guide
looked somewhat blank, as he told me that the season
was a bad one for traveling this way, and that the right
time would be in the fall, when the crevices had frozen
up again. I could have suggested that, myself, but
having got so far, I thought we would try to skirt the
glacier, along the mountain side, and thus find out
where the gorge would lead us to. But the undertak-
ing was a very risky one. We had to leap from bowl-
der to bowlder at the imminent risk of our lives, and
when, after a while, we climbed the mountain, we could
see nothing but snow-fields as far as the eye could reach,
and the horizon itself seemed shut in by ice and snow.
We concluded that we had gone as far as human beings
could go in this direction, and, seeing no possibility of
finding a pass here, suitable for our purposes, we
retraced our steps, and having reached the canoe,
returned to the mainland.
We had not proceeded very far, when we came upon
another river, falling into the Homathco, and for the
second time we left the latter, traveling up an auxiliary,
coming from the east. We had hard work, journeying
up this stream, which ran with great force. We had to
make a portage at one place, while at others we were
obliged to tow the canoe up the stream, making fast the
line round a bush every now and again, while we cut
our way along the bank. It was one of the most trying
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
journeys I ever undertook, wliicli is saying a good deal,
and our Indian chief began to cry, said lie was sick and
wanted to go home. There are many who believe that
the colored races surpass the Caucasians in endurance,
but this is entirely a misanrehension. For endurance,
tenacity, determination of purpose and moral courage
the Caucasian cannot be equaled by any colored race
I have ever met. On this occasion we suffered great
hardships. We were most of the time in the cold water,
warding off drift wood and pulling or pushing our canoes
ahead, and we succeeded in retaining our Indian, with-
out whom we could not have made sufficient progress, so
we let him cry and complain but kept him at work. He
was no doubt much relieved, when we discovered that
we had been traveling up another outlet for a glacier
and once more returned to the Homathco, However,
before abandoning this route, McDonald and I followed
the stream on foot for some distance and came to another
small river joining it from the west. Here we learned
that the Bella Coola Indians come down for salmon in
the fall. They have a trail by which they come through
this rocky pass at the head of the river, but our exami-
nation of this locality did not satisfy us that it could be
used for anvthino; but an Indian trail.
Havinu; returned to the main river, we followed it
further up, examining a few smaller streams that ran
into it at different places. The country was very wild
with deep canyons and steep mountains. Here and
there larjije ijlaciers, and rushinor rivulets with plentv of
drift wood on the stream and lars^e threatenino; bowlders
on their banks. But in ail this we could not find anv
place suitable for the desired })ass, and after having
spent sixteen days on the Homathco we returned to the
schooner at the head of the Inlet. I was not at all
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HUNTING FOP GOLD
259
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all
satisfied with iny expedition. I thought that under
mure favorable circumstances it might be possible to
penetrate further up, and I felt that I should like to
make anotiier attempt.
We next ascended the river Tequahan, running into
Bute Inlet from the north. Our experience here was
very similar to that on the Homathco River, if possible
a little worse, and we soon concluded that here, at all
events, we should not find the pass, of which we were
in search. At certain seasons of the year the Indians
here cross the mountains, hunting the goat over the
frozen snow, but this fiict alone proved to us the absence
of the desired conditions for our purpose, and we returned
once more to the Inlet to try the third and last river,
falling into it. This is known as the Memria or South-
irate river.
We were destined to experience more hardships and
additional failures on this expedition. The natives told
us that the Lockwalla Indians came down here at times
and that there was a trail across to I-iillooet. We
attempted to follow the latter but were forced to admit
that it would not serve for a road of any kind, and
havino; once more battled with the wilds of nature and
suffered a good deai, owing to the roughness of the
country, we again returned to the Inlet and set sail for
civilized parts, having spent one month and a half in
exploring the adjacent country.
As we had to bear the burden of expense, it came
quite heavy upon us at the time, but we satisfied our-
selves that we had, at all events, added to the general
knowledge of the locality, and gathered information
hitherto unknown. "The Daily Press" of Victoria,
under date of 20th August, 1861, published the follow-
ing editorial comments relative to our exploration.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
"The problem wliicli b;is caused so niueli ajj^itation
anioiiir inia<jfiiiutive siJeculators in Victoria, is at last
solved, and the numerous gentlemen who have pre-empt-
ed land in the region of the inlet, (Bute) that they
might cut it up into town lots and supply the over-
whelming: rush of business men and others that were
naturally expected to beseige the place, have expended
their eight-shilling fee for registration, to little purpose.
''The Bute Inlet route is a miserable failure. Major
Downie has tested every conceivable opening to the
interior, with a persistency that few but the Major
would have exhibited, and has arrived at the conclusion
that a road to the Fraser from Bute Inlet is, for any
advantageous purpose, totally impracticable.
"We characterised sometime aijfo the jjflowini*- des-
criptions, which were circulated by interested or unthink-
ing persons about the Bute Inlet route, as simply
imaginative emanations, without any claims to substance
or reality and the result has proved the corroctness of
our remarks.
We are glad the impracticability of the route has
been demonstrated by a man whose knowledge of the
practical science of exploration, few in the community
will feel disposed to doubt.
•'It will effectually set at rest this wavering, unsettled
disposition about the route to the mines, a feeling that
could only end in injury to those means of transit, at
present under construction. We have no inclination
whatever to discourage explorations of the coast for
routes to the interior of British Columbia, but we have
argued, that to attempt to draw the Governor's attention
fnmi the Lillooet road at the present time, when every
farthing that can possibly be spared from the British
Columbia Treasury should be devoted to that object,
HUNTING FOR GOLD
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until we have one good, passable route to the interior,
would be as injurious as it would bo puerile. We are
not exceedino-ly favorable to the British Columbia gov-
ernment; but we must admit that it has exerted the
power placed in its hands so I'ar as roads are concerned,
in a manner that few ean cavil at.
"We do not, therefore; wish to see the attention oi the
Governor drawn away to impracticable objects and dep-
utations requesting the assistance of a gunboat, to humor
the whims and 'castle-buildinu' of a few erratic and fan-
ciful speculators.
"We may be told that Bentinck Arm is still unex-
plored; that the rumors which were some time ago
afloat with regard to its practicability as a coast route,
are yet uncontradicted. But we think there has been
sufficient evidence adduced to put a stop, for this year,
at least, to any further attempt to show that the pres-
ent route to the mines is a useless expenditure of money.
''li' Major Downie's trip will have the effect, as it
shoukl have, of ck)ubling the energy at present expended
on the Fraser River route, it will be of infinite service
to both c(>lonies. At all events, the people of this and
the neiohborino- colony, are under lastinu' obliixations to
Messrs. Downie and McDonald for the energy and dis-
interestedness which they have displayed in their explo-
rations, and we hope that something more substantial
than a public meeting will l)e awarded to the adventur-
ous ii'entlemen.
"It is to be presumed, now that the spirit of explor-
ing enterprise is in the ascendancy, that our colony will
not be passed and neglected, as it has hitherto been.
'•We have not the slightest doubt there are objects on
this island awaiting the efforts of ex])loration, of infinite-
ly greater importance to the colony, than any coast
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HL'NTINC. von COLD
route to the interior of British Coluinhia. We hope,
therefore, before any further voyage of discovery is
made that Vancouver island, which can never exhibit
the unsurniountable obstacles that Bute presented,
will obtain some sliare of that attention which has re-
cently been concentrated on the rugged mountains
and impetuous rivers of the neighboring colony."
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CHAPTER VI.
Unscrupulous Speculators — The Pre-emption Law — The People
of Westminster — Two Explorers — False Reports — A Rowdy
Audience — Cariboo Mining — Trying to Pump Gold — The
Money Ran Out — Waddington's Enterprise — A Camp at
Bute Inlet — Treacherous Indians — A Night of Horrors —
The Avenger — The Killing of a Dear Friend.
The reader will propably excuse my indulging in a lit-
tle self-praise, as it may appear, by publishing the above
editorial; but I have not done it with an idea of personal
agrandizement. I am rather actuated by a desire to
demonstrate the sentiment prevailing at the time; or shall
I say, one of the sentiments, for I shall presently show
that opinions were somewhat divided.
The fight lay between the immigrants, who gradually
became the hona ^e settlers, and the speculators, who
resorted to trickery and imperfect land laws, for the pur-
pose of enriching themselves. The pre-emption law ena-
bled men to take up land, purely as a matter of specu-
lation; and many shady transactions in real estate were
brought about by this fact. It was to some extent the
motive power which resulted in a good deal of explora-
tion up and down the coast, and in that respect it was
commendable enough; but it also caused reports to be
spread relative to these explorations, which were, in
many cases, so far removed fjom the truth that no one
would recognizedthe localities from some of the descrip-
tions.
But of all places, none had attracted so much atten-
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HUNTING KOR ClOLD
liarbor facilities, tlio fine scenery, tlie location and tlie
fact tiiat three rivers ran into it, — all contrihiited to-
^var(ls a ij^eneral desire to see it made a railroad terminus.
The [)resent railroad skirts aloni;- Kamploops Lake and
follows the bend of the river Fraser below the junction
of Bonaparte River, but had not the line been contin-
ued due west by Seton ^ ^ake, through the Lillooet dis-
trict, it would have p' I the Cascade mountains near
Bute Iidet, and come .,/wn to the waters of that splen-
did harbor. Then thousands of dollars would have
been realized in that locality by a few speculators, who
now either kept honest settlers out of the field, or sold
them land under false pretenses, at unwarranted prices.
The one predominant idea was, as has been several
times alluded to, to cut across the mountains from the
river to the coast in place of followini;' the windings of
the P'rascr. On the other hand, this river afforded a
natural hisxhwav into the interior. It was a matter of
course that the country around its (uitlet looked forward
to the advantaii:es which mitiht accrue from such a
fact, and hence a good deal of rivalry sprang up between
the New Westminster people and the Bute Inlet spec-
ulators.
Every effort had been made to destroy the possibility
of Westminster taking the lead. Even charts and
maps had been published so absolutely wrong that one
hesitates to speak of it for fear of being doubted; but nev-
ertheless it is a fact that on such charts rivers were
made to suit the convenience of the project; mountain
ranges were placed where the alleged surveyor saw fit,
and they were accompanied by reports, colored so as to
throw the desired effect upon the scene, independently
of the real truth.
Such, indeed, was the state of affairs, when the meet-
HUNTING FOR GOLD
2(15
ini:^ vvas called wlilcli T inciitloned in my provious chap-
ter. Had I wished to ofet into the pay of tho specula-
tors, I could havi' made enough money on ]5ute Inlet
to am])ly repay me for my outlay and hardships cn-
dui'e(l, hut all 1 wished to do was to maive a. fair and
unhiased report of what I saw and learned.
Not so with thosi- whose onlv aim was to enrich
themselves. MclJ uiald and I risked our lives daily in
the wilderness of the interior ahout the now famous in-
let. A couple of men came U[) to mak(! a survey of the
coast, the same as we had done. They came in a small
vessel, and when they learned that we had j^one up one
of the three rivers, they i)Ut their craft ahout and sailed
for Victoria, where they at once reported the maj^iiiH-
cent discovery of an easy pass at the head of the inlet,
and a safe road across to Fort Alexandria. This o-ar-
bled statement was clad in all the fanciful lan^ua^'e of
the novelist, and no etlbrts were spared to make the
country appear advantaL»-eous, while the paper that pah-
lished it, went into elaborate details reui'ardiniif the pro-
jected railroad with its terminus at Bute Inlet and all
the rest, fi^ivino- land in the vicinity a wonderful rise in
the market.
Of all this, however, I was not aware. I first learned
of it when sometime after I arrived in Victoria and
determined to make my experience known in proper
style. 80 I hired a hall, calling a meeting and arranged
my papers in such a manner as to give my audience an
intelligent report of my explorations in the interest of
the common weal. I had a fair-sized audience, and as I
appeared upon the rostrum, flattered myself that I was
going to make quite an impression, which indeed I did;
but it w'.r the wrong way. No sooner had my hearers
' understooo from my remarks that I could not recom-
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111(311(1 Huto Inh^t, wlu'ii it seems that one and all took it
tor (jranted that 1 was in some kind of a eolliision with
tlie Westminster people to S(juash the biu; land sehemes
of l^ute Inlet. Yells went up in ditt'erent jiarts of the
uudieiu'e, such as "Put him out!" "What's he talkinj^'
about?" "Bully for you!" And then various articles
were thrown across the hall, hreakinjjj sundry lamps
in their route towards myself, who had certainly
become the central point of interest.
1 was surprised beyond description. I could barely
realize that in return for telliiiir people a truth which
had cost me many weary marches at the peril of my
life to ascertain, I should be treated as a charletan,
while a couple of impostert-' walked ofl* with the glory
of havin^; accomplished what they never attempted,
probably well paid, while I got nothing. Strangely
enough, to-day, after thirty years, there are still people
who allow themselves to be gulled into speculating in
Bute Inlet land, not content with the experience reaped
by different parties during all these years, all pointing
to the fact that nature will resist any engineering in
those regions, excepting at a cost which would be con-
sidered absolutely unreasonable.
In the spring of 1862 I was mining at the mouth of
Mink Gulch in Cariboo. It was evident that I had
more luck, when looking for gold than wht^n trying to
find mountain passes, for I struck it rich in the gravel
and took out lots of the precious metal. Indeed, during
that period the miners in this locality did well and filled
their sacks fast, and when I remember such places as
Conklin Gulch and Williams Creek, I am thinking of
some of the richest placers that ever were.
But here again the old demon whispered the words
into the miner's ear, which sent so many to destruction
II
HUNTING FOK COLD
2G7
into tlio miner's car, vvliicli sent so many to destruction
— tlie word Exeelslor I The j»old seekers did the same
tliini,^ in British Columhia, asthey liad done in CaHCornia
ten years before, always ea<;er for better chanees they
let «^ ot'a <^ood claim to pursue a phantom — I with tlie
rest an a matter of course. And thus I came to look
for «:;old in the Cariboo Swamps, where rumor had it
there was lots of the yellow stuH'. But alas for "-old
huntin*^ in swamps I We pumped mud day and niy^ht
to find some kind of a trace, but it kej)t out of our way.
Under the title of the Long Point Company we dug
ditches and })umped enough brown mud out to fill an
ocean. To make a long story short, we pumped there
till my finances were pumped completely out, for I had
to foot the bills. At last I gave U}). I told the boys to
help themselves to a sack of flour, or whatever they
re(|uired, and to look for better chances somewhere else;
and while the digL'ers down the creek said that we had
struck it rich and were making "two fish to the pan," I
made my way down the Fraser River on foot — a sadder
but a wiser man.
L have mentioned Mr Waddington's aspirations in the
direction of exploring, and that he was vastly interested
in Bute Inlet and the adjacent country. In course of
time he planned a townsite there and began to make
roads as best he could. It proved a dangerous work
ft)r the men; not only because of the wild nature in this
vicinity, but also owing to the indisposition on the part
of some of the Indians, who objected to any road being
made through their country.
Such an objection was not altogether uncalled for.
The Indians were not slow to perceive that at the same
time as the approach of the white man brought them
advantages, there were also other sides to the question,
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not the least of tlicso Ix'iii^ tlio disi-ascs, .spread ainonof
tlu' native tribes by the invaders. Tlius, in tlie year
1S()2, siuall-pox was carried by tlie wliites to Bella Coola,
whence it spread as far as IJenshee and Chisicat lakes,
and in an incredibly short time no less than five Imndred
Indians died at the last place. Ag'ain, the manner in
which unscrupulous adventurers had repeatedly broken
faith with the natives, had done much harm to the
white man and reflected even U[)on those who cam*'
amonjj; them with honesty of ])Urpose and Li.'ood intent.
Among the chiefs \vhoop|)osedthe proi:>Te.>s of Waddiny-
ton's Party w^as one, Tellet bv name. At the time I
speak of the party consistiMl ol seventeen meit, incharo'c
of Mr. Bi-ewster, and a man nnnied dim Smith looked
after the store and ferry. Oiw dav, duiinLf the niontii of
April, 18()4, Tellet arrived at the ferry with his sons-in-
law, known as Jack and (leorLie. and also accompanied
by Klattasine, a vonn^' Indian of nineteen years; Indian
slave, Chravchunume, twenty years of aLie, and three
more Indians. It was afternoon when they neare<l
Smith's place and Klattasine was sent ahead, conunis-
sioiied to asc(>rtaiu the whereabouts of the white chief,
as they called Waddinu'ton, and to murder Smith. The
Indian demanded that Smith ])resent him with :-,ome
blankets, which the storekeeper refused to do, where-
upon Klattasine suddenly tired at him, killinij; him in-
stantaneously. Then he ransacked the house, and
having' returned to his companions, a plan was laid to
surprise Brewster's camj) at the Third Blufl' during tlu;
night, and thither the Indians now proceeded.
Arrived there the scene that nresented itself was the
customary picture of a survey ^'I's cam|) after the days'
work is over. The men had uatlK'rid round the cam]>-
fire, and the smoke oi *lieir pipes curled aloft in the still
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
eveniiii£, while the smokers were chattm^■ about current
topics, entirely unconscious of the tragedy that had
been enacted at the ferry, and the awful fate that awaited
themselves. As tlie party had apparently alwa3's been
on the friendliest of terms with the Indians, their
arrival did not arouse the least suspicion. The Redskins
joined in the general conversation, and time passed by
agreeably enough, until the hour had come, when every
white man went to his tent, rolled himself in his blanket,
and slept the sleep of the weary.
But tbe Indians did not sleep. They lay watching
for the moment to arrive when their fiendish mission
could be fulfilled, and just before the sun rose to throw
its glimmer upon the landscape, and call all creation to
life once more, these demons rose to put the peacefully
slumbering and unsuspecting men to death. The men
were divided in the tents, sleeping two or three to-
gether, and tho Indians rushed upon them, throwing
down the tent poles and with knives and pistols began
murdering the sleepers, who, taken entirely by surprise,
were stabbed or shot at throuoh the canvas. F'or a mo-
ment all was confusion. The whoops and yells of the
Indians raniJj throutrli the clear morninfj air and minified
with the groans and imprecations of the struggling sur-
veyors, who tried in vain to escape their cruel enemy,
and when the hideous work had been performed, only
three men out of seventeen had escaped death, as if by
a miracle. They were Peter Petersen, a Dane; Philip
Buckley, an Irishman and an Englishman by the name
of Moseley, the last one being the ordy one who escaped
unscathed.
The terror of the situatior may l^e imagined from
Moseley 's statement, who, in his own words, described
the scene as iie saw it: "I was in a tent with J. Camp-
HUNTING FOR GOLD
271
bell and J. Fieldini>' a Scotchman and an Enixlishniun
respectively, when just about day-break T was awak-
eiied by two Indians coming to the tent door. They
did not enter, but merely raised the door, then, whoop-
ing aloud, they fired ou either side of me. I was lying
in the center of the tent, and as they let the ridge pole
down it fell upon me, and the tent nearly smothered us.
Presently I saw the canvas on either side of me being
pierced with knives penetrating the bodies of my com-
panions. I could see through the canvas, and observed
the Indians going to another tent, when I jumped \i\)
and extricating myself plunged into the river, which was
but a few steps from me. I swam about a hundred
vards and then crawled ashore, when I noticed Indian
men and women shouting and yelling, where the cook's
provision tent was. I fled further down the river and
then met Petersen, with whom I proceeded. We never
had any difticulties with the Indians previous to this."
Botli Buckley and Petersen had a most miraculous
escape. The former received two knife wounds and was
hit in the head with the butt-end of a musket. He fell
to the tjround like a loiX, ^nd the Indians thought him
dead; but he afterwards recovered his senses and made
his escape. Petersen's wrist was crushed by a musket
ball, and it is a wonder that thev were not murdered
with the rest.
After the Indians had assured themselves that their
victims were all dead, they finished up their bloody
work bv horriblv nmtilating the bodies; teariny- the
tents into shreds and looting the camp, carrvino" awav
all the stores, including two hundred pounds of bacon.
Brewster and two of his men were not in the camp at
the time of the bloodshed. Thej" had gone up the trail
to examine it, and the Indians at once went in search of
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
them, and all three were murdered like their compan-
ions.
The three men, wlio escaped, all made for the ferry,
wliere they found the nuitilated body of the storekeeper.
They had c^reat difficulty irt crossing tlie river,
wounded as two of them were, and for fear of being
overtaken by the Indians, baricaded themselves in a log
house, wliere they remained for several days, until two
packers came past, who took them away. They were
then conveyed to Nanaimo, where they were cared for
at the French Hos})ital, under the care of Dr. Pujol.
The news of this massacre created the <xreatest excite-
ment, and no time was lost in dealing out severe retri-
Ijution and checkinLi' these savages in their wanton
course, but as they went on to the junction of Bute In-
let and ]^entinck Arm, it was feared that Manning's
party, and McDonald and his party, known to be, at the
time, packing considerable freight into the Cariboo
mines, would share the same fate as the Waddington
party, and true enough, it was confirmed later by some of
the scouts under McLean, of Bonaparte, that Mr. Man-
ning and others were nmrdered at Benshee Lake.
The gunboat "Forward" was dispatched to Bute In-
let with twenty-one volunteers. The flagship *'Sutlej"
was dispatched to Bentinck Arm with a party of ma-
rines, taking with tliem two Clayhoose Indians who
were acquainted with the murderers and witnessed the
massacre. Commissioner Cox started from Cariboo for
Soda Creek with forty hardy miners, well .equipped and
armed with good rifles and revolvers, where he expected
to meet with Captain McLean, but this gentleman to-
gether with Aleck McDonald and others, had started
out to reconnoitre, only to bo trapped by the Indians.
Hiding in the thick underixrowth, Tellet and his
HUNTING FOR GOLD
273
'm
moil fired at tlio party from ambush, and McLean
fell dead to tlie j^round, Tlio fire was returned, but as
the enemy could not be seen, no certain aim could be
taken, and the white luen were forced to retreat. The
Indians now made their appearance to pursue the enemy
when McDonald and a few more turned round, and, firing
from behind a tree, sent several of the hostiles to the
grass. At last McDonald was the ouly one left,attempting
to cover the retreat and check the Indians. His friends
shouted "come on," but he reolied: "Just one shot more
at that fellow, and I will come I" It was too late, how-
evei', and his horrified friends saw the musket falling
from his hands, while he sank dead to the ground with
a bullet through liis head.
Thus died one of the bravest of men, one of the truest
of iriends, trying to cover his companions, fearless to the
last; one of the many unknown heroes, whose lives wore
lost in the great wilds, in trying to build up a grand and
beautiful country.
But retrilmtion was near at hand, and the nmrderous
Indians soon after met their fate. They wore surrounded
in the mountains, and cut off from escape; foar and hunger
forced them to surrender into the hands of the law.
They were all hanged in quick order, five of them being
strung u{) on one beam, while Chief Toilet boasted to
the last of the number of white men, whose blood he had
shed.
Thus was enacted oii'- of the greatest tragedies of the
early days of British Columbia, and while the invader
lay scalped and nmtilated in the woods, the rightful lord
of the soil hung dangling from a gallows tree. Strange,
indeed, that it should be thus, that after all, the difi'or-
ence between the human being and the savage brute is
so small; for it should at all times be borne in mind that,
274
HUNTINC; ?OR (iOLD
althoui^h Waddinj^toii's party liatl coiniiiitted no attroc-
itios on the Indians, yet the usurper of the country liad
in so many instances caused tlie Indians to suffer indii(-
nities, wliich even more civilized races would have con-
sidered that only blood could atone for.
11
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':,■;:; i p.
CHAPTER VII.
The Gold Export Tux- Captain Evans and His Son — In tho Edi-
tor's Kooni — The Kusso-American Telegraph — Two Different
Routes — How to Go to Work — Once More at Dean Canal
— Some Beautiful Land — Predicting a Bright Future — Hon.
John Kobson — The Famous Granite Creek — Lumps of Gold
— Advice to Disheartened Miners — Comparing Fast and
Present.
The idea of introducing a so-called gold export tax
met \vitli much favor among the miners of British Co-
lumbia, who in the early .sixties clamored loudly for a
measure, the object of which was to keep the gold
within the country where it had been found, and I
admit that I was, at the time, one of the supporters of
the project. Having had an opportunity, in after years,
to more thoroughly consider the matter and view it from
other points tlian those which then presented them-
selves to me, I am inclined to think it was well for the
country that the measure was never made law.
I remember a curious incident in connection with
this, which caused some anmsement among the initiated
ones. During the year 1806 a meeting was held at the
The Theater Royal, in Victoria, for the purpose of dis-
cussing the matter of the said tax. Captain John
Evans was in the chair, and a great many people were
present, most of them miners or men interested in
mines, and, while a good many speeches were made, the
general sentiment expressed, seemed to be in favor of
the tax. Captain Evans was a Welchman, and one of
the best known Cariboo miners. From Billy Barker's
276
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down to Ciunoron's, tlioro wen; few wlio did not know
him, and lie was ludd in much (j.stccni anioii^^ th(! mim rs
of that (Hstjict, ll(; was a Hu(3nt writer, and fnMjUiintly
contrihutt'd to tin; nows[)a|)(!rs of th(i day, an<l was a jx-i-
sonal friend of Alexander T. l^ell, of tlie N^ictoria Tunas,
t the (!()lumns of whicli j)a])er he liad eontril)Ut(Ml many
valuable artieli's; and when the; tax (|uestion arose, he
was a fervent advocate of its introduction. Th(3 Cap-
tain had a son, Taliesen Evans, who is now well known
in (California, as a journalist and writer on various sub-
jects, but at the time of which I speak, he; was a coy
youth who had not, as yet, made his debut before the
j)ublie, in any manner.
Youiil;' Kvans was at the mecstinijf referred to. He
listencMJ to the sj)eeclics and could hardly refrain from
makinur one himself, beinji' checked ordv by his vouthful
modesty, but it ap[)eared to him that the; argument in
favor of the tax was wron<Ji', and Ik? was anxious to say
so. After his return home; tliat evcninjj; he set to woi'k
and I am told, for the first time ventured upon an
address throuo-h the public press. H(^ wrote a Ifjttcr.
(^jonnncntini;' u])on the meetmL;; and its object and uriijc d
tl'.at, as t\\(i min(!r was taxed for (iverytlunu; he ate and
drank, for his clothes, his tools, his necessaries of IW'v.
and his luxuries alike, it would be unjust and out <)f
reason to place a tax upon the product of his labors,
Si;ained amidst hardships and perils, moreover as th(!re
was virtually but litth^ use for tlie LC«>ld within the
country itself.
With this messa<j;"e to tlw interested public younuf
Evans approached the Editorial Sanctum. lie had
attaclied a fictitious name to the hitter and, takino- ad-
vantai^e of the absence of Mr. Hell, ])laced the communi-
cati(jn upon his table and hurried away, presently the
HUNTING I*()K GOLD
277
Editor ciitcrod, picked up ihc .\raiius('ri|»t, road it luul
was just dij4(jstiiii» its (•oiit(Mits, wlicii ('aptaiii Kvans
made his aj)|)t'araiico.
"Look li(T(! Captain," said Mr. I Jell witli a smile,
"Ilcn^ is ail anoiiyiiious writer sittiiii^' down ujxxi you
folks pretty well, and lie is i-iujlit too, I tt'll you. I am
i;'oiii'j;' to piiMisli what he says at any rate. Just lo(jk at
that."
With these words he handed t,h(! ('a))tain tin; newly
re('(!ived communication, hut his friend had hardly
j^lanced at it, when Ik; exclaimed in utter amazement:
"Why, that is my son's handwritin*'-."
l>ut th(! letter was puhlished just the same, arid voum»"
Evatis liad written his fiist newspaper- arti(de to the
satisfaction of tht; P^ditor, if of no one; else.
In the ycuir IHG.l tin; Jlusso- American T(;le^n'ap]i
(Jompany hei^'an to cast ahout for the most advantancous
route, l)y which to lay their lines across J^ritish Colum-
bia from the Fraser River to tli(! coast. The chief
Hnperintendent of the company was Colonel 10. J^ulkley,
and I was advised hy Mr. Allan Erancis, the United
Statcis Consul, to report U{)OU thi^ country, situated
betw(;en these loni^itudes and IjordeririL,^ on tin; Kussiau
j)ossessions, so as to assist the Colotud in his choice of a
rout(!. Ilavinii;' traveled over tin; whoh; of that va,st
territory more than once, I could easily comply with
the sUL;;ii^estion, and 1 reproduce liere the nreater part of
my re{)ort, as it will serve to show the reader the
intimate knowledi^cs, I liad accpiired of a country hy
[)eriious wanderini^s and hazardous explorations.
After a few preliminary ri'marks I go on to say :
"Startinj^ from Fort Alexander on the l-'n-ser Kiver
the diiitanee to Fort Georyce is about 1.50 miles; from
F(»rt Gecjrge to Fort St. James on Stuart Lake, follow-
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
iiiu^ the course of the river, tlu' distjuioe is al)out 120
iiiiles, thence f'ollowiiii'' aloiis;; tiie l)aiil< of Stuart l^ake to
the Portai^e ahout Ht'ty miles, the; ))ortajj;e is ten niih-s,
from here to Naas Glee at the lower end of l^ahine
lake 100 miles, and from this point to Port Essinti^ton
is a distance of about 250 miles, makinii" Ji total of about
700 miles.
This was the route which naturallv suiXLCested itself,
l)ut I kn(!W of another more practicable, and susj^gestt'd
the fcjllowinj:^: "Startinsjj at the junction of the Quesnelle
and Fraser Rivers, keep alono; the east bank of the Phra-
ser for about fifteen miles till a small canyon is reached,
and there cross the river, the width from cliff to cliff be-
ino; only two hundred yards at this point. Follow up
the west bank of the river about thirty miles further,
then strike across in a northwesterly direction towards
the Stuart Ri\«'r; follow this river for about sixty miles
to F'ort St. James, on Stuart Lake; thence keep alono-
the south side of Stuart Lake to the ten-mile portaij^e
between thi«- water-shed and Bal)ine Lake. Continue
along the soutli side of Babine Lake to the Naas Glee;
follow down the river from tliis [)oint, until a canyon is
reached, distant from Naas Glee about one hundred
miles, and as far from the coast.
"This course appears to be more favorable for runninsj^
the line. It is tolerably level, and is but lightly tim-
bered, and the river, from this canyon to the sea, is nav-
igable for batteaux, thus facilitating the transport of
wire, tools, etc. From this point, take a northwesterly
course till the river Stikine is reached, a distance of
about one hundred and fifty miles, and thus avoid the
Peak and Babine mountains. This will strike a point
on the last named river, which may be reached from the
coast by boats or canoes, and thus further facilitate
HUNTINCr KOK (lOLD
27!»
transport, wliili; tliis coursu carries tlic liiuMicjirly two
liuiidred miles further nortli, tliroujj^li a j^nxxl country,
easy to travil ami work U[)om, and accessible by several
water-ways."
I further recommended tluit the Skeena River l)e
avoided, as it is very mountainous and difficult to travel.
I also advised as to the best method of traveling, by
making all |)ossil)le use of the water-ways as the easiest
means of transportinsjj material and supplies.
My report went on to say: "Boats adapted to the
Fraser River navi<ration, and capable of carryiiiL? five
tons dead weioht, can be built at Fort Alexander, or at
the mouth of the Quesnelle, where suitable timber may
be found in abundance. The size required would cost
about five hundred dollars, and none laryjer could be
used to any advantai^e. These boats would be re(juired
between the Quesnelle and Fort Alexander, and the
head of Stuart Lake, as well as on Babine Lake, while a
good wagon road can be made along the portage betwuen
the two lakes.
Boats of the size mentioned, will require a crew of
eight men. Four of them may be Indians who will be
found to work well, and the balance may be made up of
half-breeds or old servants of the Hudson Bay Company,
who can be liired in this locality for very moderate
prices. They are most excellent boatmen, good pilots
and capable of rendering much information and assistance.
As soon as the boats are ready, 1 would send a party
to the Junction of the Fraser and Stuart rivers to com-
mence operations from this point, keeping the boats en-
gaged in carrying up supplies in the meantime. Too
much attention cannot be paid to the management of the
boats for the distribution of material a'ld sujiplies at the
proper time and places which will facilitate operations
"
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280
HUNTING FOR GOLD
more than auytliiiig else, and I would therefore recom-
mend to have a well qualified man as superintendent
of the boats and to keep the same crews in the boats all
the time, provided they do their duty, as by so doing
much confusion and discontent will be avoided. Leaving
the junction of the two rivers, I would go to Stuart Lake
and commence operations, choosing the south side as the
one best adapted to the purpose.
"Havini'" commenced on Stuart lake I would take a
party to the portage and start the making of the road
there. This should be easily made, as the distance is
only ten miles, and the country presents a fine stretch
of rolling land; the pasture is good here, wild hay grow-
ing in abundance, which may be cut and stored in
sufficient <|uantity for any number of cattle and horses
i^b may be found desirable to keep through the winter.
At the same time men should start in, whip-sawing and
building canoes at the head of Babine lake, as the
canoes obtained here are made of cotton wood, and not
well adapted to carrying freight.
"In carrying cargoes across the lakes it may be found
necessary to do the principal work at night, when all is
calm, as in these high latitudes the wind often rises
during the day to a perfect gale, at times making the
sea so turbulent as to surprise any fresh water sailor.
"In runnino^ the line alonij: Babine Lake, the south
side will be found the one to be preferred, although the
hills are ruoijfed, but at the same time not very hiirh.
On the north side there are many large bays, while in
other places the land is rolling and clear for considera-
ble distances. The country is open to the northwest
from Naas Glee, where lie the Indian villages of Kiss-
pi-yaks and Kith-a-rath.
"In regard to the necessary operations to be undertak-
!f\
KOSKEEMO INDIAN CHIEFS.
UA'.IiJ
282
HUNTING FOR GOT.D
Ifl
en on the seaboard, I would recommend that an expedi
tion, suppHed with all necessary materials, be dispatched
to Stikine River, as this will be a central point upon the
coast, on account of the river being navigable, as far
as is necessary, to a point through the coast range,
from whence a line may be run northwest to Sitka, and
another southeast to connect with Naas Glee."
The reader knows what it meant to be able to write
so exhaustive a report of a vast, and mostly unknown
territory. My exjterience had cost tremendous efforts
and great suffering. I had gone hungry and weary for
many days, in danger of my life among savage Indians,
never knowing when they might turn upon me, and it
may, therefore, appear excusable .that I felt hurt and in-
dignant at the fact that no proper acknowledgment was
ever accorded me in regard to a report which contained
much valuable information, and some practical advice.
Let me not pass over this period of my stay in Brit-
ish Columbia, without revertinix once more to Dean
Canal. It will be remembered that mv first visit to this
inlet was not fraught with any result as regards pene-
trating the mountains, and nnding: a route into the inte-
rior, but later on, I succeeded in this respect. I found
that having overcome the difficulties which first presented
themselves to me, my efforts were richly rewarded. I
came upon a magnificent country of rich, rolling forest
land, splendid pastures, and altogether, a country pre-
sentinix the iMJssibilities of thousandsof homes beinu; built
in this region. Rivers and lakes, forests and meadows,
varied in pleasing order, and here, indeed, is the short-
est route from the coast to Fort Fraser, antl further
on to Fort James or Fort Georixe. The river Nechaco
runs southwest from T'raser Lake, and dividing itself,
runs through a number of other lakes, until it ia finally
HUNTING FOR GOLD
28a
lost in the Tazella Lakes. I understand that latclv a
move has been made to settle this land, upon the advan-
tages of which I reported to the government years ago,
and I verily believe that this will become one of the
most prominent portions of British Columbia. Through
this country will, no doubt, run the projected railr<>ad
from Fort George to the coast, and I predict a splendid
future for the settlers on Dean Canal and Salmon River.
In 1886, when the Hon. John Robson was Minister
of Mines, I was aoain in British Columbia. At that
time the Granite Creek District had attracted nmch at-
tention, and I was bent upon making a close examina-
tion of the various localities in this district. I subse-
quently made an official report to Mr. Robson, and as it
may serve to illustrate the condition of that region at
the time of my visit, I here append the principal points
of its contents, which may not be without scnne interest.
I begin where I pass the so-called Summit House,
and soon found the geological formation to be real gran-
ite, below which the slate formation commences and
contiimes all the wav down. Followiniij the trail down
Whipsaw Gulch, I struck the gravel benches and roll-
ing ridges, covering a large extent of country and clear-
ly showing the great wash of an earlier period of the
earth's history, when, 1 take it, large bodies of water,
receding: from the lakes, caused the formation of ijrravel
ridges, gulches, creeks and ravines,- where, indeed, one
would expect to find gold. The wash is very extensive,
and some of the creeks and gulches had been prospected
and a small quantity of gold found, but not entiugh to
pay for working.
Nine-Mile Creek and Whipsaw Gulch had been pros-
pected chiefiy by Chinamen, and the Mongolian had
stuck to it witii all the tenacity, characterizing his race,
m\
284
HUNTING FOR GOLD
m
■ Mi
but liad been forced to jjjiveiipand al)andon tlio di^^gings.
The soiitli fork ot'tlie Similkaiiieen had also been pros-
pected for a stretch of fifteen or twenty niiU'S, but
nothing of conse(|uenee liad been found. Here is .situated
AlHsoii's coppir mine, and I saw some very fine speci-
mens of peacock ore from tliis section.
All the way down the ridges gravel (U'curs, and, as I
neared the river, some of the low l)enches looked very
favorable. I found several Chinamen at work and
further up the stream a company of white men were
preparmg to go prospecting. The gravel was heavy
and did not wash offreadilv, and the ijrold, bein«j;' fine, no
doubt got away through any sluices with fall enough to
carry oft' gravel. I took it for granted that these
extensive gravel benches will never be washed off" and
that working on bars and bends will be the extent of
work done on the Similkameen for many years to come.
Leaving Allison's I took the trail for Granite. It led
up steep grades at the back of Tulameen, and on this
road I met numerous prospectors returning disgusted,
in fact, I had not seen so many sad miners in a heap
since the days of '49 in California, and I could not re-
frain from telling some of them that their poor experience
should serve them as a warninLir ni^t to leave house and
home agidn to tempt fickle fortune.
Arrived at the fiat oiiposite Granite city, I camped
and made a thorough examination of the far-fauied
Granite Creek. The distance from the river to the
forks of the creek is four or five miles, and the hills,
bordering it, rise very abruptly forming, so to s[)eak, a
natural ground-sluice so that any gold on the hillsides
nmst find its way into the creek; but nothing like bench
or hill-diiririiiiis had as vet been worked with success
with the exception of the larger fiats at the mouth of
HUNTINO FOR GOLD
285
Granite Creek. Opposite the town a quartz leclj^e had
just been h)cated and work started, and a nuinl)er of
claims on the Tuhiuieen beh)\v tlie mouth of the Granite
were also beinsf worked.
Leaving Granite I took the trail for Otter Flat,
situated about seven mile.s distant. On the larije Flats
above Granite Creek I noticed several Chinamen, who
divided their attention between mining on the river and
raising potatoes and other vegetables in large quantities
higher up. The u})per part of the trail led through a
most beautiful country of the finest pasture land and to
all a])pearance afibrding a better location for the herd
than for the miner. The town of Otter is situated on a
large fine fiat at the junction of the river and creek,
being originally a Hudson Bay Company's Camp, and
the old Bri«>'ade trail from Hope comes down the rido'e
on the opposite side of the river, but it had ceased to be
used and was blocked with fallen timber. The t(>wn,
when I visited it, consisted of two stores, two saloons, a
bakery, conducted by a chinaman, a branch postoftice
and a news depot, but its few residents looked forward
to, what they considered, a promising future.
I then took the Nicola Valley trail and went to Bowl-
der Creek, where I found several companies holding on
to their locations with great determination, although
they were scarcely making ^ wages. One shaft, sunk
forty feet, proved a failure, while others, sunk in shallov/^
ground, paid well, and Collins' Gulch on the other side
of the river paid wage^J but was about worked out.
Here 1 was shown a piece of gold, weighing one ounce
and three-quarters, but it was regarded as something
phenomenal in these parts. On Cedar Creek, two miles
above Otter Flat, several companies were at work, some
of them making small wages and others nothing at all;
280
HUNTING FOR GOLD
1.1 !
there was but little excitement, and evervbodv felt
like giving it up.
On the Tulanieen, above Otter Flat, a San Francisco
company had located, but they were not ready to test
their claim, as they required special machinery to work
their diggings, which were very deep.
The Golden Crown Company was getting ready to
commence operations, and the Beaver Oompany had a
ditch out of Slate Creek and a powerful overshot wheel
working an eight inch pump. Upon striking the granite
sand, which seems to prevail generally on the Flats of
the Tulameen, the water came in too strong for the
pump and stayed any further progress for the time being.
This company owned thirty-five claims and had a front-
age of 2,000 feet on the river. It was undoubtedly the
finovst mining property on the Tulameen; and the focili-
ties for working could not be surpassed, as there was a
fall of twenty-five feet in the entire length of the claim.
When I was there the company was about to sink an
other shaft in a more favorable pliice.
At California Company's claim expectations ran high,
two dams had been put in, and good results were antici-
pated. It was located in a canyon and there were
several other companies in the vicinity, some of them
worked by Chinese. The Colorado Company had just
taken out a lump, weighing nearly six ounces, but that
sort of iiUggets were not so common here as they were
in certain places on the Yuba gold-fields in the early days.
But such revelations of gold may never be seen again in
this era of ^jeoloojical events. Slate Creek was consid
ered the best location among the many Tulameen claims,
and yet it yielded barely five dollars a day. This creek
runs through the center of the Beaver Company's prop-
erty.
HUNTING FOR GOLD
287
A well-defined quartz ledge could be located near
Eagle Creek, on the Tulameen, but nothing had been
done, as yet, to test it. After all, I came to the con-
clusion that there was considerable gold to be taken out
of the Tulameen River when the requisite appliances
should be put upon the ground.
As I glance over the early pages of this book, I re-
view, at the same time, the early history of modern gold-
finding. It has never been surpassed; it will never be
equaled, 1 believe. The gold which the forty-niner be-
held in the dawn of California's most remarkable epoch,
was like the dawn of day, when the sun throws its rose-
ate hues over all the heavens. As the day wears on,
the golden sunbeams still shine down upon us, but from
a nmch smaller compass. So, to-day, the gold-hunter
has a much smaller field in which to operate. And as
the sun at meridian, appears to be much further removed
from us than when it rises, so, to-day, the gold appears
to be much further removed from the miner than it was
of yore. Will the day end with another glorious burst
of gold, or will the sun be veiled with heavy clouds as
it sets upon the present era? Who can tell.
Ii I
■' ! ■ i
1* ' i
CHAPTER VIII.
Iiuliaus — The Yiilue of Natives — Medicine ]\[eu iind Superstition
— All Incident at Yuclatan Villef^c-— Heart Disease and no
Bullet — INIeuioir From tlie Naas Kiver — Singular Customs
—The Price of Flour— The White Man and the Red :\ran—
How They Died — Scarlet Fever — Indian Mechanics — A Prom-
isinfif Countrv.
I cannot here refrain from once more revertino- to the
Indiiins of British Columbia, who indeed phiyed a prom-
inent part in the early history of caucasion invasion of
their country. In many instances they contested most
hitterlv, the forward march of the white man, while in
others they became his faithful friends. Perhaps it
would have been ini))ossible to penetrate to the fastnesses
of some of these reoions but for the guidance of a native,
who directed the steps of the adventurer, showed him
the trails and conducted him, on foot or in his canoe,
into the interior of the country.
The relation which we assumed toward some of the
Indians was that of guardians who became responsible
for their welfare, and must render account to their friends
and relatives in case of anything happening to them
wliilst traveling in our company. They were valued as so
much cattle by their own people, and in case of an acci-
dent, restitution could always be made b}- presenting their
friends with blankets or other goods, nmch after the
manner in which modern grief is assuaged by demanding
hard cash from a railroad company to make up for the
untimely death of a relative who has lost his life through
2S8
HUNTING FOR GOLD
289
their iieo'lect, or whilst travehiiii in tlieir cjire. I still
havo a lively recolKctiuii ot* nearly losing two Indians,
who would have cost nie something like sixty blankets,
had they perished in the river where we capsized, and I
admit tljat, as I saw them carrieil down the stream, I
was more concerned ahout tlie heavv damages, than I
was ahout the lives of the two natives whose struijitjjles
finally brought them safely ashore, much to my relief.
In fact, in all such cases the first thouglit that seemed
naturally to occur to one, was a quick calculation of how
many blankets one would have to pay for so nmch native
fiesh and blood.
Superstition reigned supreme among the Indians, and
it was considerably increased by the weird and singular
action on the part of the medicine man who held sway
over the natives by mystifying them with his phantastic
actions. The medicine man played altogether a curious
})art in the Indian community, and was in many cases
both revered and abhorl-ed at the same time. He was
looked up to because of the superior knowledge which
he was believed to possess, and feared because of the
evil power he was often supposed to exercise, and I am
here reminded of an incident which goes to prove the
superstition of the Indians in legard to the possibilities
of the medicine man.
According to the usual custom amonofst the Indians,
of leaving their villages in a body, every man woman
and child in the Yuclatan villaiije was about to take to
their canoes, carrying with them all their belongings; but,
just as they were pushing off from the shore, it was dis
covered that the medicine man was not in his accustomed
place in his canoe. His reputation was bad in the
villao-e, and he was feared as well as hated, and had it
not been considered an omen of bad luck to depart with-
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HUNTINC. FOR CiOLD
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out him, tli«'\- would i>lii(llv liavi' left liiiii lu'liiiid.
Wondcri'iii;' wluit coidd luive Ijccoiiii' of liiiii, tlic yoiiii^
bucks ctdli'd liiiii loudly l>y naiiu', l)Ut rccciN iiiL? no re-
spouse, tear l)e*;au to take j)ossessi(>ii of the dc[)art iiii;'
Indians, when suddenly an old s(|uaw cried out in a
suppressed tone: ''See him on the t(»j» of the house I"
Evervhodv looked in the direction, and, sure enough,
beheld the hideous form of the Medicine man on the
rid^e of a roof, crouchinjj^ in a half-sittinn" posture, jtoint-
inii" at them with one loiiu 'can finder and assuminu: an
air of mystery which was well calculated to pu/zle the
Indians. Suddenlv the attention of evervhodv was
drawn from thi' old man p(;rched on the roof to a younu'
buck who had been standing in the shallow water
alongside n\' his canoe, and with the others v'iewing
the singulai- scene. With a loud i)iercini:: cr\' he fell
forward without warning; there was a s])lash in the
water, and his astonished and horrified conu'ade drew
his lifeless boilv into their canoe.
Although not a sound but the voices or the Indians
had hven heard, still the general impression was that tiie
medicine man had killed the youth bv silentlv seiKhn*'' a
bullet into his heart. The women set up a wail, and
the bucks stood about in a sullen and defiant manner,
waitinu' oidv for one word of encourai>'ement to aveiM'f
the cruel death of one of theii' nund)er.
Suddenly a brave in red paint stepped to the front.
*vLet us kill the nuirderer!" he cried; and with ayell and
a whoop they made a mad rush for the hut, upon the
roof of whi<'h the old uian had perched himself 'J'hey
were l)ent u})()n murder, ami tlie me(hcuK' man [)erceive(i
it; so he let go of the ridge and allowed Inmself to drop
down behind the hut, but in so doing he rolled over and
intiicted a hideous wound in the head.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
The Tndijins found liiui buliirul the liut, lyiiis? on tlio
ground and blcedinjjj profusely from a L^apiiio^ wound.
Tliey drao-jrcd him out and would certainly havt; murdered
him, had not a white man who hap|)ened to be present,
dissuaded them by arguing to them that the medicine
man, not having a gun, could not have fired a shot at
anybody.
For awhile the natives seemed pacified, and the white
man, being something of a surgeon and desirous of dis-
covering the cause of death, undertook a post-mortem
examination. He took out the heart of the dead man
and found in it a clot of blood which had undoubtedly
stopped the circulation and caused the sudden colapse;
but the natives, seeing it, innnediately took it to be the
substance that had been fired at the dead buck by the
wicked medicine man and once more prepared to kill the
alleged slayer of their friend. Again the white man in-
terfered and saved the object of their hatred, but the
incident will show the mysterious powers attributed to
the medicine man and the manner in which he was re-
garded by the natives
The Indians on the Naas River were very numerous
in the early days. They were generally clad in fur coats
and dirty blankets and did not present a very inviting
appearance. But they were a careless, indifferent lot;
they spent the greater part of the time in dancing,
feastinof and smoking and were so much given to the in-
dulgence in pleasure that they entirely forgot to put
sometliing by for a rainy day, and, when winter came,
they generally liad to go starving for months, notwith-
standing that the river abounded in salmon, and they
might have secured enough food to carry them over the
winter, had they not been so given to anuisements.
The medicine li^an exercised the greatest power also
HUNTING FOR GOLD
20:^
in these quarters and often held the ]»eople in ahjectsuh-
jecrion. I have seen many singular proofs of the manner
in which one man's mind may direct that of anotlier until
it l)econies perfect master of the weaker one to such a
degree that tlu.' latter may be made to imagine almost
anything. These "doctors" professed to be able to "ill-
wish" anybody or to throw any* particular spell over their
subjects who not only believed in the possibility of such
a thing but went so far as to suffer both physical and
mental pain in the firm conviction that it had been forced
upon them by the invocation of the medicine man, who
could command the evil spirits. Thus it has often
happened that a young buck would look ill and suffering
and when asked what was the matter, would explain that
he was sick, the doctor had cast his spell over him, and
he was dying. And, indeed, it was not by any means a
rare occurence, that young men in this plight would pos-
itively refuse to take eitlier food or medicine and would
gradually become weaker and weaker through sheer
exhaustion and fear. These illustrations would tend to
show,that if the Indians do not know what we callminil-
cure the}^ certainly understand its opposite-mind-killing,
and the success with which they practice it may demon-
strate the correctness of a theory entertained by some
white people in our days.
But it must not be supposed that these doctors prac-
ticed their noble profession for nothing. On the con-
trary their greed often knew no bounds, and this was one
of the reasons, why they were so much detested. They
carried with them a small box corresponding with the
orthodox satchel of their medical confreres of more civil-
ized communities; but, in place ofcostly instruments and
an assortment of pills, the box contains bones and beads,
feathers, stones and all sorts of trinkets. Naturally the
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294
HUNTING FOR GOLD
owner surroiuulod liis casket witli a great deal ofiny.stery
and it did at times contain some curious oljects, sucli as
fingers and other parts oftlie human anatomy in a ghastly
dis])lay. And, when the learned doctor has exercised
his inHuence over any particular individual, or number of
individuals he put in his charge with the same discretion as
does the physician of a civilized connnunity who never for-
gets to distinguish between the millionaire and the
pauper, and the wealth of the medicine man was meas-
ured by the quantity of furs and blankets he had exacted
from his unfortunate victim^\
The Indians practiced polygamy in proportion to their
wealth. Ordinarily speaking an Indian would have but
one squaw, but, if he were rich and a chief of inqjortance,
it was a common thing to increase his household by
adding one or more wives to the original one. When a
girl was of marriageable age her lower lip was pierced
and a pin inserted. This pin had a flat end, which re-
mained in the mouth, while the rest protruded through
the lip and over the chin an inch or more, Asa matter
of course it gave the girl a very hideous appearatice in
the judgment of a Caucasian connoisseur of female
beauty; but according to the ideas of savagedom, Venus
lierself is defective, in as much as her lip was never
pierced. The marriage ceremony was the simplest one
imaginable, being entirely void of any rite or other im-
posing formalitv. A irreat feast was arranged and at it
the names of the bride and groom were called out, this
constituting the tying of the nuptial knot, while the
bride's brothers, uncles, and other relatives received hand-
some presents, consisting of blankets and furs often in
large quantities. The wedding feast generally concluded
with dancing and singing, which was kept up for many
hours. They had a perfect system of dividing their
HUNTING FOR GOLD
295
couHiiuiiity into groups. Tliis I have found to bo the
case amoiiij: the Indians all over North America, and the
• )hject seeuis to be to prevent too close intermarriage.
The groups or "crests" are usually called after some
animal, such as the wolf, the bear, the eagle and so on;
and members of the same crest do not marry.
In no civilized comnumity does a more complete code
of etiquette exist than I found among th(} Naas River
Indians. Every chief was accorded the privileges of
his particular rank, and any attempts to assume a higher
rank than the one to which he was entitled, was at once
resented The chiefs on the Naas used the totem poles
as indications of their social standing, the same as I
afterwards found to be the case in Alaska; the hio^ht of
the pole denoting the raidv of its owner, and it was not
uncommon for two chiefs to disagree U[)on this matter.
I remember one such case, where a chief put up a
pole, much taller than he was entitled to, the result
beint; a fiyjht with another chief whose rank he had en-
crouched upon. The offender was wounded in the arm
at the beginning of the fight, whereupon he immediately
submitted and cut his pole down to the regulation
hight.
Their principal food consisted of dried salmon. During
the summer months the fish was cau^jht in the rivers,
sun-dried and put away for winter use. The natives
also gathered different kinds of berries, which they pre-
served in grease; but one of their most importantarticles
of food was a loaf, made from seaweed. The seaweed
when gathered, was properly prepared and pressed into
cakes or loaves, which were much relished by the natives.
Now-a-days, as a matter of course, the Indians eat
many kinds of food, which have been introduced by the
white men, but even as late as 1877 this was not the
296
HUNTING FOR GOLD
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case. At that time flour cost ten cents per ptjuiid, and
the Indians could not atiord to buy it. The Hudson
Bay Company was the first to give the native an idea of
trading, and the latter soon learned that he had to pay
for trade. In the spring and fall he would come to the
trading posts with his season's catch of furs or fish and,
if he Avislied to buy a Flint- lock musket, the bargain
would be made by placing the musket, end up in the
ground, after which the Indian was told to put his furs
down, one upon the other, until the level of the other
end of the sfun was reached. Then the trader took the
pile of skins, and the Indian took the musket.
Among the many curious traditions existing among
the Naas river Indians, none perhaps is more character-
istic than the narrative of how the red and the white
man met for the first time. The storv in substance is as
follows: A number of Indians were fishinir in a larj^e
canoe at the mouth of the Naas River, when suddenly
a thick mist surrounded them. After awhile thev
heard a strange noise, not far distant, and they at once
thought that some evil spirit of the great ocean had
risen from the deep to swallow them, wherefore they
hauled in their cedar lines and seizing their paddles,
pulled for the shore as fast as they could. But the
dread noise did not subside, on the contrary it seemed
to follow close upon them, and in fear and trembling
they expected every moment to encounter some fearful
monster. At last they reached land and jumped ashore,
and there they stood looking into the dense fog, anxiously
watching tlie sound, which grew louder and louder, as it
evidently approached the terror-stricken Indians. But
what can describe their amazement and consternation,
when they suddenly saw a large boat of a strange and
unknown build gliding out of the mist towards the ver}'
HUNTING FOR GOLD
•207
place where they stood, the boat being tilled with white
men?
The strange appearance of the pale-faces created the
greatest sur[)rise anioi , the Indians, who now witnessed
the white men landing and preparing to camp; but tliey
were soon to behold even <jreater wonders. The stranojers
beckoned the Indians toward them and sii^ned to them
to brinLj some iisli. One of them carried somethin<»'
resembling a stick, which he pointed at a bird Hying
overhead. Then tliey saw fire and smoke issuing from
the stick, while a thunderinL' sound called all the echoes
of the mountains to answer its sharp, sudden crack, and
the bird fell lifeless to the ground with blood upon its
feathers. Then died all the Indians, by wdiich expression
is meant in the language of the Naas River people, that
they were fairl}' taken back with surprise. When they
had again recovered themselves, they questioned t)ne
another as to how thev felt, and whether thev were all
alive, and then, in response to a sign by the white men,
they prepared to make a fire in their usual way by rub-
bing two pieces of wood together. ,
But the pale-faces laughed, and one of them, seizing a
handful of dr}^ grass, applied a flint and steel to it and
all of a sudden there was a blaze. Then the Indians
died ao^ain.
Tile white man now gave them to understand bv siyns
that they desired some fish, boiled, and the Indians pre-
pared to heat stones in the fire, according to their way
of boiling by putting hot stones into cedar vessels, filled
with water. But the white men smiled at them, and
placing an iron pot over the fire, began cooking in their
fashion. The Indians had never seen anvthing like this,
and thev could not understand whv the bottom did not
burn out of the vessel, and, indeed, so great was their
^1
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
surj)rise that tliey again "died," as is explained above.
But, after the fish were eaten, Ib*^ white men put in
some rice to cook. By and by it began to swell, and
the asto!iished Indians saw it rising and moving about
in the bubbling water, and, thinking it was something
alive, they cried in disgust; ''Maggots, Maggots!" But
when the rice had been properly cooked, the white men
prepared to eat it by pouring molasses over it, and the
natives at once surmised that this was the grease of
dead people and refused to tai-te it when it was handed
to them. But, when they saw the white men eating
the boiled rice and apparently rolisliing it, they died
again.
Other similar thin<''3 occured, which in the consider-
ation of the Indians appeared like miracles, and when-
ever another wonder was worked they died. Then
came the time for the white men to die. Tlie Indians
went away a little distance and when hidden from sight,
thev put on their paint and head-dress and besought the
great Noh-Noh to as-^ist them. Returning to the camp,
they walked slowly ai! 1 majestically, with firm and
steady, step and head 0(^wed, into the presence of the
strangers, but when they raised their heads and the
white men looked into their wonderful faces, tliey were
surprised beyond measure, and they also died.
As traders, the Indians have always impressed me as
being very keen, although as a matter of course, they
never received the real value for their goods. But as
they could not possibly ascertain how much their furs
were worth in the market of the wldte man, the question
became entirely relative, and so far as their knowledge
of the transaction went, they were often particularly
sharp. One incident occurs to me just now, which will
show their manner of calculating. The Hudson Bay
HUNTING F(1R (iOLD
200
Company had liired a nuinher of Indians for tlic pur-
]»oso of takint( freii^lit up tlio river Skeena in their
canoes. The party was in diarge of u wliitr man, and
tlie Indians were paid so nmeli per day, everyone who
owned a canoe receiving double; in other words, a canoe
and ''a man counted- the same. The c()m[)any supplied
})art of their provisions, but on this trip they nearly ran
out of stores; for, having covered only one-half of the
distance to be traveled, the fresh jt in the river so in-
creased the current that no headway could be made, and
the whole party was obliged to go ashore and camp for
ten days. Gradually as provision, became scarcer,
rations were reduced, and at last orders were given that
only one spoonfid of sugar would be allowed each man
per meal. The Indians are very fond of sugar, and in
this party was an old man. who had a particularly
sweet tooth. He was the owner of a canoe, and he
made use of this circumstance to help himself to an extra
supply. When the sugar tin was passed round, he
helped himself to one sxioonful, "This is for me," he
said. Then taking another spoonful he remarked dryly
"And here is for the ciiioe."
Their idea of justice is often very striking. At one
time some voung Indian i^irls in a mission school on the
river Naas brouiifht the charixe auainst a young man
that during prayers he had looked at them through his
fingers and made grimaces. The Indians summoned
the accused before their council; and severely reprimanded
him, reminding him of the reverence which was due to
the occasion, and which he had so sadly forgottei\.
The youth admitted the otlense, and after a scorching
lecture was fined in a small amount. The council then
called the young girls in and admonished them, saying
that if they had kept their eyes closed and attended to
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HTTNTINO FOR GOLD
their prayers, tlioy" would iiotluave noticed tlie indecorous
action of tlie younuj man: and tliey in turn were fined for
their alleij^ed impropriety.
The Indians have a or(3;it dread of diseases. Ilev. E.
A. Green informs me tliat wlien scarlet fever broke out
on the Naas, in '87, for the first time, the Indians held
a council to discus the matter. It was reported among
them that the fever had been sent up the river in a box^
and was being served out among them as a punishment
because some of them had not joined the mission, and it
was decided to nuirder Mr. Gi-een and his familv. Just
then, however, the fever broke out in the Missionary's
own home, and they at once saw their mistake, and
were profuse in offering their sympathies to the family.
Mr, Green has lived amonof the Naas River Indians
for manv vears, and done nmch nrood work amonuf them.
The Reverend ixentleman holds a hio'h opinion of tlie na-
tives, characterizing them as a manly people.
But, as the Indian of British Colund)ia has advanced
in the course of years, so has t^at splendid countr}- in-
creased in importance as the explorers laid open to the
world at large the rich fields it contains, where prosj)erity
may be reaped. Foremost among these explorers stand
the pioneers of the Hudson Bay Company, but they left
mucli undone, which was not accomplished until the
Fraser River Gold-diuuintrs were discovered. Then
came the miner, and with his natural lust for adventure,
he repeated what he had done in Cahfornia years ago,
and forced open highways and by-ways that had never
been thought of before, thus taking the first active step
in the general and final development of a magnificent
country. Let all who took a hand in the work rejoice !
Their trials were great, their labors hard to perform,
but the result will prove a great and glorious one.
ADVKNTURES
IN
PANAMA,
^11
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CHAl^TEK I.
Takinf2f a Rest — A New Friend — (^ueer ConverHation — How Vaii-
Hiekles Du^ Gold- My (ireatest C?haiu'e--Panaina tlie IMucc
— Dt'imrture — ACuriouH Old (Utv — Difficult iMountain Trails
— Down With Fever — Aii Indian (Iraveyard — l)ig<,nn<,' For
(Jold — Potterv (ialorc — A Curious Whistle — »My Collection
Spoiled — Movin<,' to Other Parts.
In tlic fall of the veur 1H74 I was staviiiu' ii> San
Francisco, taking a rest. During this period 1 paid fre-
quent visits to my brothers-in-law, Artemis and Doug-
las Davison, who, like myself, were old California mi-
ners, and always on the lookout for any new enterprise
in the way of gold-hunting. We were often talking
over former davs and wonderino; to ourselves when and
where the next excitement would break out, for, al-
though we all realized that we were not "so young as
we used to he," we were all in good health and full ot
vi<'or eao:er to nluni'e into some fresh undertakinir for
the !?ake of shiiiuiu: ooKl.
There is an old aday-e which savs: "Once bitten, twice
shy." It may be true in certain respects, I have nt)
doubt, but in regard to the i)ioneer miners of Cahforn la,
I never found that it held s^tjod, on the contrarv, defeat
seemed to urgfe them on to new ventures. And so it
happened that the three of us had not yet given up our
worship of the golden calf, principally because it had
always got away from us, after we had caught it, and
was yet roaming at large in some, to us, unknown place.
If the opportunity, however, should present itself to run
it down in whatever clime, we were prepared to chase
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
the Hyinltolical hoviiie initil we liud punned Iiiin, and like
il .s|)id(.'r w<itc]iini»: for a i\v to ^jet into liis wel), we wore
layini( wait, anxious for our chance. It was introchiced
to us by a yGun«jf jjfentleinan l»y tlie name of A. T. Van-
sickles in such a manner that it fairly took us old miners
aback and made us think tliat we had the softest ''snap"
on band, ever presented tt) anyone, liunting for the pre-
cious metal.
One day we were talking to our new friend, Vansick-
les, when he told us something about Panama, whence
he had just arrived. "Gold," he said in answer to an
in()uiry. "You bet there is gold; why, the country is
full of it. Hard to get at, you say? Not a })it of it.
I found lots of it and can get as nnich more as I care
for.
We pricked up our ears, as a matter of course, and
began to talk mining to him right away. But he did
not know a rocker from a pan, nor a sluice box from a
diamond drill, and we commenced to think he had merely
been having a joke at our expense.
"But how in the world did you sret the gold?" I
asked.
"Dug it out of the graves 1" he said, perfectly uncon-
cerned, speaking as if it was an every day occurence in
that country to dig gold out of graves.
I must confess I did not at once relish the idea to turn
suddenly from the honest occupation of a gold digger, to
something bordering on the nefarious trade of body
snatching, and I asked him to explain a little further,
what he really meant.
"Well," he said, "I learned that the old Indians in
their days used to bury their dead — that is the wealthy
ones — with large portions of the treasure they possessed.
I was told furthermore that old Spanish adventurers
th
HUNTING FOR COLD
806
liael opened tlie i;raves of Inea cliief'H and luid taken
as much as 200 j)()unds of jjfoM from a sinj^Ie jj;rave, and
so I made up my mind that I couM |)lay the same name.
ConstMjuently 1 made friends witli an Indian, wiio
jiointed out to me one of tlie ohl Inca cemeteries in tlie
Interioi', and siiowed me wljere 1 miiiiit diu" witli some
success. My j^uide was so scared of the possihle advent
of tile spirit of tlie deceased chief, that lie <|uickly made
off, l)Ut, as I liad no fears on tiiat score, I set to work
with a spade 1 had bought, and very soon found that I
. liad struck something. I was fairly dazzled, when I
came upon gold and silver bracelets of heavy patterns,
and other ornaments, mingled with all kinds of useful
and decorative articles, many of them exceedingly costly.
I felt as if I had suddenly entered a fairyland of wealth,
and hiding as much of the precious find as I cared to
carry away, I made ott* for the time being, and upon
arriving at the nearest town, soon realized (juite ;•. hand-
some sum, on what I had brought \vith me. Since then
I have done a jjood deal of grave digsjjing, and with i<-ro-
nounced success, and on the last grave I emptied, I
realized about a thousand dollars for a couple of hours
work.
As Mr. Yansickles finished his storv, he iiiiiilcd a
couple of twenties in his pocket, and the words he had
spoken, togetherwith this sound, produced an effect upon
us, as though we had been listening to some charmino-
song, accompanied by sweet music. Here was a ])ropo-
sition. To exchano-e the hard rock in the dark tunnels
for the easy work of uncovering dead Indians, and in a
few hours enrich ourselves with treasures they certainly
had no more use for. Artemis was no less struck w^ith
the idea than I was, and it did not take us long to make
up our minds, that, after all, Panama was the place
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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where we were destined to make our fortune, and as Mr.
Vansickles offered to ijfo down with us, we made the
necessary preparations to proceed to the Isthnms and
make the big haul of our Hfe.
It was but the matter of a few days to get all in readi-
ness, and the next steamer for Panama carried all three
of us southward. I do not think that I have ever felt
so elated in all my life, as I felt when we steamed over
the waters of the blue Pacific. The waves, as they
danced about the bow of the steamer and glimmered in
the light of the sun, looked like so nmch golden spray.
The sky, as it reflected the setting sun in the far horizon,
appeared like one mass of golden banks. Hope itself
glittered like gold in my thoughts and dreams alike, and
I felt more certain than ever that at last the hour had
come, when I should attain that reward which every
gold hunter has a right to look for. We had money
enouiijh with us to suffice for four or five months: we had
a splendid outfit, conprising everything we could possibly
have need for, and accompanied by a man who had dug
the gold in these parts before, failure seemed impossible.
We did not think for a moment that the steamer, which
carried us, went quickly enough. The days passed
slowly, and the nights were sleepless; for the anticipation
of opr cominor fortune rendered us nervous and lestless,
and when we came to the end of our voyage and stepped
ashore in Panama, we were greatly pleased.
I cannot pass over my entrance in Panama without
briefly mentioning the impression I received of this an-
cient town, which has since become so famous, while its
name has cost men millions of dollars, for the sake of en-
riching a few unscrupulous speculators, who have now
received the just punishment for their unsatiable greed.
The city, which has, or had then, about 15,000 inhabitants,
if
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
307
its
eii-
now
eed.
iits,
is of very old Spanish origin. It is built upon almost
level ground, and the site of it is located on a nar'^ow
peninsula, extending into the bay of Panama, and on the
extreme eastern point of this peninsula stood the walls
of the old citadel, built of brick and faced with cut stone.
These walls were used as a promenado, being twenty-
five feet wide on the top. They were from thirty to
forty feet high and were provided with seats, and not-
withstanding their age, they were in good condition.
The view from here was very pleasing, and embraced
not only the vast blue expanse of the Pacific with the
islands in the foregound, but also the hills and forests
of the country.
The streets were narrow, winding and badly paved,
and the city altogether appeared dirty and full of disa-
irreeable odors. The houses had never more than three
stories and were provided with balconies, projecting, un-
til they almost touched one another. The atmosphere
was damp, hot and generally disagreable, and, apart from
the historical interest. I could find nothinof attractive
about the little city. Tiie old fort and the Cathedral
are the only buildings of any interest, and as an
architectural curiosity, it may be mentioned that the
cupolas of the two towers of the Cathedral have an
edging of oyster shells by way of ornament. French
and English Were spoken in most places, and the
restaurants were frequently conducted by either Ameri-
cans or Frenchmen. From Panama we went to Chittrae,
and here we rested, while a man was sent ahead to La
Mesa for horses, to take us up into the mountains for a
distance of about 120 miles, and as soon as the animals
arrived, we started out.
The horses were small, altlioutjh sturdv, but the road
was like the rocky road to Dublin — hard to travel. ' The
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
nature in these regions is certainly uni(|ue, and it ini-
pressed us, as strani^ors, with its wonderful variety ot
scenery, fauna and Mora. I believe the vegetation em-
bodies everything', from tropical to Alpine, as the altitude
rises from the level of the Pacific and the Atlantic to
the summits of the Cordilleras, which rear, so to speak,
from a plateau formed by other mountains, palms grow
here in i^reat varieties. From some of them, so-called
palm wine is extracted, while on others cocoanut grows,
but many of them are very beautiful trees. While the
soil is said to hide, in addition to gold and silver, also
platinum, amathysts, emerald, copper, lead and other
valuable products, the forests supply cinchona and log
wood, while such plants as Aloe and Sarsaparilla are
found.
Amon<r the animals, inhabitantini.*" this nature's dru<>-
store, if I may use the expression, the monkeys are
most numerous. They are as a rule very small, but
there is said to be al)Out twentv varieties of them, and
they would sit on the branches of the trees, and th.ow
twigs or fruit at us as we passed by. There are various
kinds of animals, belonging to the feline race, also deer
and bears, while Alligators swarm in the rivers. In the
U[)[)er regions of the forests parrots and peroquets vie
with cockatoes in making the most noise, and over them
again soar the condor; cranes wade through the swamps;
the wild turkey hides in the undergrowth; and the beauti-
ful pea birds display their rich plumes. There are
plenty of snakes in the country, and the boa constrictor
makes his home ni certain places, while the Yaruma and
Casabal are more frequent. In the valleys are excellent
pastures, and nature in these regions is wonderfully
o'rand, while rusfged mountains of phantastic outline,
HUNTING FOR GOLD
309
aiul rushing streams, add to tlie effect, produced by the
animal and vegetable hfe.
It was no easy task to travel through the forests of
Panama. The trail was often dangerous or hard to find,
and the mountain streams ran witli a velocity, which
rendered them difficult to ford. However, we pushed
on until we arrived at the place belonging to a Don
Juan Barrio. It did not take us lonix to discover that the
noble Don was a near relative of our guide, in fact the
home of the latter seemed to be in the bosom of Bar-
rio's famiiy, and it was evident that he was determined
to stay here for a few days before proceeding any fur-
ther. It v^ould not have been of much avail had we op-
posed his desire in this direction, for we had not been
long in this place, ere both Mr. Davison and myselt
were down with fever. For sev^eral days we were hors
de combat, and I felt so bad that for awhile I thought the
only ii'rave diiifii:in<jf I should have the i)rivileiie of beinif
concerned in, might be the one preceeding my own fu-
neral, and I wsis not at all cheered at the prospect. The
complaint was evidently a malarial one, and no doubt
had its cause in the wretched drinkinof water we were
treated to in this locality. Meanwhile our host was
very kind to us, and in a little while we found our-
selves recoveiing, and as soon as we were able, we set
out ao-ain on our weird mission. It was more stru^-
gling with the wilds of nature, more pelting by the im-
pudent monkeys, and a continuous anxiety for fear our
small horses would not be able to carry us and the pack
through, but I nmst give them credit for their wonder-
ful powers of endurance, which I learned in time to ap-
preciate.
One animal, which we here encountered in large num-
bers, I nearly forgot to mention, although indeed it
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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played quite a part in our adventures — it was the wild
hog, the peecarico, as the natives call it. It is only a
small animal, but very ferocious, and especially, when it
appears in hordes, quite unpleasant to meet. It will at-
tack a man with its sharp teeth, and should one chance
to be unarmed, Mr. Hog can make things quite lively
for a time. In such cases the general thing is to climb
a tree and allow the enemv to a-et tired of waiting for
one's descension. I sat in a tree the greater part of one
day, looking down upon my pursuer, who evidently had
more patience than I. He stayed below, resting on his
haunches with his head turned skyward, one eye appa-
rently asleep and the other every now and again blink-
ing up at me, to see how I was getting on. At last
a native came to my relief and speared the peecarico,
which settled the contest in favor of me. I was begin-
ning to get pretty tired of being a tree dweller, and
made haste to get down. The natives are very skillful
at spearing these animals, but I never could understand
why they disrobe themselves of their nether garment
when they go in pursuit of them, except it be that they
Avould rather keep their trowsers than their legs intact.
As to myself, I felt as if I would prefer wearing six
pairs of pants, rather than none, when waging war upon
the wild hoo- of Panama.
At last we arrived at a place where our guide in-
troduced us to an Indian graveyard. We were told that
a few months previous somebody had dug out forty-
p.even pounds of gold in this neighborhood, and sold it
in Panama for fourteen dollars a pound, and we felt
sure that there must be many graves left from wliich
other treasures might be unearthed. I admit that it
was with a singular sense of anticipation that I invaded
this ghastly gold field. I recalled to my mind a dozen
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
311
different instance.^, from former years, when I had ap-
proaclied a place where gold ^vas supposed to be. We
had judged then by the surrounding nature; the geolog-
ical condition had in most cases fiven us some kind of
assurance; but here was absolutely nothing to go by,
save a little mound, and in some cases not even that,
but rather a slight hollow in the sfround. Nevertheless
it was not material where we duiX- In the y-raves of
the rich we might expect to find what we were looking
for, in those of the poor we had no chance. But there
was nothing to indicate the one from the other, for
these dusky heathens, in going to their forefathers, had
not provided for forty thousand dollars' worth of carved
st(Mie piles, so as to denote their rank and keep their
bodies safe below the soil at the same time.
Consequently we had to "go it blind," and we set to
work. We soon came to the conclusion, that our de-
[)arted friend had taken some of his household articles
with him, for we dug up a quantity of curious looking
pottery. I had not gone to Panama for the purpose of
collecting old crockery, or set up a curiosity shop on my
return home, and I was therefore not wholly satii^ficd
with my find. At the same time it interested me to
some extent, and I went on dii^fiijing, but to mv disii^ust
our success was limited to the unearthing of pottery,
until it appeared to me that all the old earthenware
vessels of ancient Panama must have been dumped in
this cemetery. We heaped the articles up at one place,
and ^Tadually we had accumulated enough to start an
ordinary museum. Grave after grave was broken into,
and amidst bones and skulls, that seemed to grin at us
from their eyeless .ockets, we drew vessel after vessel,
swelling our supply of ancient ware.
Suddenly we came to a grave in which the pottery
I
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:
RELIC FROM AN INCA GRAVE.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
313
seemed to be of more delicate texture, and we concluded
that jsome chief had found his last restin<j: place anioiiix
these pieces, and so dug on with renewed hope, expecting
certainly to strike some of his silver or gold })late. But
no ! It was crockery, and remained crockery, l^ut
among it we found one curiosity, the like of which I had
never seen, neither before nor after. It was a whistle,
made to represent a puma, or leopard. The tail was cut
off stumpy, and arranged for the mouth-piece, and on
each side were three holes. The instrument was a very
curious contrivance, and so inojeniouslv arrantjed as to
render it possible to play sundry different tunes upon it.
After several days, spent in digging up pottery and
finding nothing else, we determined to try other regions.
Meanwhile, I had collected the best samples of what
we had found, and packed them in a basket, intend-
ing to bring it back to California with me. But my
intentions were thwarted in a singular manner. In a
moment of misplaced generosity I had given the native,
who found the curious whistle, a dime, and as soon as he
had an opportunity, he spent the money on grog.
Whether he added to his purchase of the fiery fiuid by
expending his own money, or whether he could really
get drunk for such a small amount (he afterwards in-
sisted that he did) I cannot tell, but he came back to
camp in a state of intoxication, which prevented him
from distinguishing the objects around him, and he laid
down to sleep on the basket, containing my precious
pottery. The result was fatal to the curios. The
native came out intact, but not one piece of the disinterred
property of deceased Indians was saved from a devasta-
tion, which rendered them entirely unfit even for a dime
museum, and I left these parts heartily sick of my first
experience in digging for gold in the graves of the Incas.
11
CHAPTER 11.
,.,11
')< !
The Chirique — AnoMier Clraveyard — More Pottery — David City
— The Sbubei Brothers — A Native Hog — Singular Tombs —
Above the Clouds — Abandoning Grave Digging — Looking
for Copper — A Perfect Hoodoo — Farewell Panama — Bric-a-
brac,
Altliough it is true that we felt greatly disappointed
at the poor results so far attained, we did not lose cour-
age, and with the tenacity and perseverence, which I
think is characteristic of the pioneer miners of Califor-
nia, we determined to give other localities a trial before
giving up the venture, and so pushed eastward, towards
Costa Ivica, in hopes of meeting with better success.
On the 5th of April 1875 we arrived at the Chirique
, and prepared to cross it. The waters came down with
much force, for we were experiencing a rainy seaso %
and had endured a good deal of hardship on our journey,
in this way; moreover, the river was very deep in some
places, and when we attempted to cross it, reached to
our shoulders. We all linked hands, and in this man-
ner, succeeded in crossing without any accident. It is
strange that directly on the opposite side of this river,
the territory is called Costa Rica, although the bound-
arv of the State of Panama does not occur till further
east
Our journey, so far, had been impeded by numerous
difficulties, more especially afforded by the thick under-
brush, through which we had often been compelled to
cut our way; but we now expected to get along much
more easily. We soon came upon a camp which had
314
HUNTING FOR GOLD
315
been built by cattlemen. It was of singular construoticMi
and covered with palm leaves, servin^r well enouL,di as a
shelter against the sun, but forming a poor protection in
the rainy weather. As there was a plantation patch
near by, we concluded to camp here and rest, and we
made a good fire and placed one of the natives on guard
to keep the peccaricos away. These little animals were
very daring here, and hung round the camp like a pack
of wolves. Our friends, the monkeys, were also very
numerous in this locality, and every now and again one
of us would be hit by something, thrown at us by these
mischievous brutes, whom Darwin flattered by calling
them the progenitors of the human race. I have seen
the human race in many varieties, and all through my
stay in Panama 1 lived in daily exchange of missiles
with monkeys, and I consider it a consolation that in
Mr. Darwin's theorv there is a missing link, which can-
not be found.
The trees around our camp were covered with moss
to a remarkable degree. It enveloped them like a thick
mantle, from the tc^p down to the very roots, and
the effect was exceedingly striking. Here, also, we saw
a great many wild turkeys, the so-called ''Royal Tur-
key." It is a very pretty bird, and affords an excellent
meal, but the natives will not kill it on account of some
superstition.
I tried to prospect several creeks in this neighborhood,
but with no success. The appearance indicated gold,
but my experience would not bear it out, and I began
to wonder whether all the mineral wealth attributed to
this country, is confined to the graves, in which so far,
I had not found it. Shortly after leaving this camp
we came upon large droves of cattle, which were being
driven towards the coast to be sold in the market. The
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drovers, or cow-boys, looked very picturesque, wearininr
large sombreros and mounted, Spanish fashion, with all
tlie display characteristic of their race.
At last we came upon another graveyard, and with
renewed hopes we entered upon an examination of the
burial place. Again pottery and nothing but pottery.
It seemed to me as if all the pots, vases, vessels and
everything else, made out of clay, had been heaped to-
gether here, and as if the deceased chiefs Imd measured
their wealth by the earthenware in their possession.
There was, however, one curious feature about these
graves, which rendered them more interesting than
any we had hitherto seen. They had been constructed
on the principle of tombs, and were enclosed With thin
slabs of whitish spar, from two and one-half to three
inches thick. I examined this material, and came to
the conclusion that it would do first rate for building
purposes. I found it very remarkable that in all this
neighborhood there was not a (juarry to be seen, and it
made me think that the stone, used in these tombs, had
been brought from a considerable distance; but these
graves contained neither silver nor gold, and it began to
dawn upon nie that our trip to Panama was as much of
a wild-goose chase, as, in days gone by, the search for
the Gold Lake had been.
We traveled by way of David City and here rested
for a few days, putting up at the house of Mr. and Mrs.
Agnew. Mr. John Shuber, a prominent Panama cat-
tle dealer, was staying here, and he aiid his brother
Henry, owning certain claims on the Atlantic Slope,
where there was supposed to be copper, I entered into
an arrangement with them to prospect the locality, and
of this undertaking I will speak later on. We enjoyed
the utmost hospitality during our stay here. The city
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HUNTING FOR COLD
317
of David is located on a plaiti ahcmt thirty-fivo miles
wcist of the volcano, known as Mt. Chn'i<|Uo. and its in-
liahitants are niostlv enLjaiifd in stock-niisinijf and coHee
culture.
Not tar from this citv we visited one of the o'reatest
natural wonders I have ever seen. It was a hui^e cave
situated in a limestone formation. We entered it with
biazinir torches to liixht our wav, and the effect was
truly mut^ic. The stalactites and stalagmites pointed
their long thin fingers at one another from above and
below; the walls glistened with spar, and the bats flew
like phantom birds into the farthest darkness, as the
glare from the torches partly lighted up the uncanny
scene, leavino- dense tjloom like a circle bevond the
periphery of their reach. The cave was probably sixty
feet high at its lowest point, increasing toward the back.
The air within was oppressive, and the whole situation
affected our senses in a disagreeable manner, althouijh it
roused our wonder, and I felt relieved upon once more
breathinsj: the fresh air and having: the sunliixht fall uiion
me again. One thing, less pleasant to contemplate when
we issued from the wonderful cave, was the appearance
of fresh tiger-tracks, but we never, saw the animal,
which had left, and continued our way without any
further adventure.
Again we camped on the banks of the Chirique.
While here I saw a native woman carrvino; a wild ho*'-
on her back. She had evidently speared the aninial, for
she held the weapon in her hand. The flesh of this
animal is very savory, not unlike our tame pig but has
an additional flavor, which is particularly pleasant. I
was amazed to see this woman thus burdened, for al-
though the peccary is not so large as the one that goes
in as pig at one end of Armour's establishment, and
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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eonies out as pork at thi^ other end, still it is u heavy
weiL^ht to carry. I eii^aufed in conversation with this
woman. She told me, amoriLj other thinL^s, that she
had been eiujfaijfed in dii^ijjint; ydd out of Indian «;rave8,
and exhihited a small piece which I bought of her for
six soft dollars, meaning dollars worth eighty cents
apiece. All along here the natives told the most har-
rowing tales of Spanish cruelty, as practiced in the early
daysuj)on the aborigines. I listened to accounts of whole
families who chose self-destruction rather than falling
into the hands of the invaders, and if the tales related
to me were only half true, the revolting treatment to
which the early settlers subjected the native sons of the
soil, is almost unparalleled in the history of the world,
and on a par with any torture practiced upon early
Christian martyrs.
Once more we t/ied gold-hunting in graveyards, but
with the same result as previously. Pottery, again;
pottery forever; nothing but pottery, until we became
so disgusted that I believe if a stranger had come up
and said "Indian graves" to us, we would have laid him
alongside some of the ancient pottery, considering our-
selves justified in so doing, on the ground of gross pi'ov-
ocation.
Before disposing of the subject of Indian graves, how-
ever, let me say that in many parts of South America,
very valuable ornaments have been found in Itica grave-
yards. Probably one of the most interesting of these
finds is at present in the possession of a Mr. Thorndike,
of Lima, and consists of a pure, solid silver bust of a
male beinsr eioht inches in higrht, and weighing about
eleven pounds. Mr. Frank A'incent, the well-known
traveler, says of this wonderful relic: "The head is de-
cidedly Homeric in aspect, but wears a sort of Persian
HUNTING FOR (iOLU
810
cap, .surrouiulcd hy a larj^^o, ratliatiii"^ sun. The niouUl-
iiij^ and carvin<jf of the .sun in sueli a position, would ap-
pear to indicate a Persian origin, and tlius, again sup-
port tlie theory of trans-PaeiHe migration." I think
tiiese remarks are very suggestive and full of interest.
There can be no doubt that many valuable anti((uities,
outside of pottery, have been buried in these tombs, and
may, in due course of time, in the hands of ingenious in-
terpreters, serve as an explanation of some of the mys-
teries that at present meet our retrospective glance, as
we try to penetrate the past. 1 am informed that at
Molendo, a limited liability company has of late years
been organized, with a capital of $50,000. It bears tlie
singular name of the "Anonymous Company for Explo-
ration of the Inca Sepulchres," and has for its object the
search for antiquities and valuables, in the old burial
grounds in the district of Cuzco, the government having
granted a concession to the company for this })Urpose.
To all those who may have any intention of taking
stock in this somewhat remarkable company, I give here
my own personal experience in digging for gold in In-
dian graves, that they may consider well, ere they em-
bark in an undertaking which has, on the other hand,
been crowned with such success as that attained by Mr.
Thorndike.
I was now thoroughly disgusted with my efTorts to
find gold in Panama, and determined to give it up, and
at once attended to Mr. Shubert's business. The mines
he wanted me to prospect, were situated on the other
side of the range, and we therefore made for the sum-
mit, so as to reach the Atlantic slope. Our j.ourney was
a very difficult one. The rain was coming down in tor-
rents, and not till we arrived above the cloud-belt did we
experience any sunny weather. There, on the tops of
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
the Cordilleras, pretending to put one leg on the Atlan-
tic, and the other on the Pacific side of the mountain
ridge, I made a speech to my conn)anions for the pur-
pose of enlivening the somewhat dreary situation. I re-
minded my audience of the Spanish heroes, whose per-
severence in days of old, had first guided them to these
mountain tops, and then pointed out how Anglo-Saxon
energy was in no way behind that of the Spaniards, and
how, through Americans, it had led us on to unqualified
success throughout the known world, excepting, of
course, when it came to extractinij lifold from Indian
graves. Then I gave three cheers for California, after
all, the only genuine El Dorado, and we started away
from the cheering; surroundinacs of sun-lit mountain
scenes into the clammv reoion of mist and rain, towards
the borders of the Atlantic.
The trail was bad and dangerous, and we sufiered con-
siderably on our journey, but we pushed on with una-
bated vigor, hoping that we njight achieve in copper,
the success we had failed to find in gold. All alono' I
examined carefully the fcmation over which we were
travelino-, for I had been told that we mis^lit find traces
of lead and copper throughout the whole distance, from
the Atlantic to the Pacific, but I failed entirelv to bene-
fit by the tips given me in this direction, and could find
no indication of the metal I was in search of
' At Horcansists I was joined by Mr. Santiago Ho-
venue, whom I found a most pleasant companion. He
was an exceedingly gentlemanly man, and gifted with
rare conversational powers and general knowledge, which
rendered him very interesting, and his presence did
much towards alleviating the hardships of the trip. The
location which we had to examine, is situated about
sixty miles from Horcansists. We camped in the can-
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
yon known as Aliares Reo, and paid a visit to Mr. Rills'
trading station, some fifteen miles further on.
Arrived at our destination, we found that a tunnel
had been started into the hill about fifty feet above the
creek that runs through these parts. This tunnel was
cut into the rock about twenty-five feet, and ran in upon
a reddish brown slate lying horizontally. Along the
face of the hill outside of the tunnel a slate formation
appeared, running at right angles with the tunnel, and
in this formation I found small seams of crystalized
(juartz. It was here that the virgin copper was found,
and I was told that when first discovered, the metal
lay in large lumps just above where the mouth of the
tunnel was situated.
But that was the last seen of the copper in any appre-
ciable quantity. I worked into the seams, but could not
find much of anything. They became narrower, until
they ran out altogether. The hill had the appearance
of a drive, as the rock did not lie in a regular position,
such as is generally the case when true leads of mineral
are found. I made a careful examination of the seams,
but could find only faint traces of the mineral, and not
even, a good specimen, where the copper was first dis-
covered. I must sav, that the more I saw of this olace,
the more I was at a loss to understand what the people,
who drove the tunnel, were thinking of when they did
all this work; for there was nothing whatever, that I
could find, to warrant the expenditure of any such engi-
neermg.
I followed the ledge up the canyon, and found slight
traces of copper in various places, but nothing like a
lode. There was no appearance of carbonate of copi)er,
but here and there were stains along the ledge, just
enough to indicate that we were in a copper country,
HUNTING FOR GOLD
323
but not by any means enough to justify any outlay of
money for the purpose of speculation, and I can safely
say that I did not see, during my journeying up and
down on the Atlantic slope, one bucket-ful of copper.
In this same section of the country I made an examina-
tion of a ledge of cinnabar, which had been described to
me as exceedingly rich, but again I failed to find any-
thing" worth working*. The soil here consisted of brown-
ish clay with red patches, but if there really was cinna-
bar to be found, it was in such small quantities, that it
would not pay to work it.
Altogether, it would have cost considerable money to
undertake any mining in these parts. The places I was
directed to examine were only accessible over almost
impassable trails, and the dense undergrowth on the
hillsides rendered even the task of prospecting particu-
larly difficult. Closa Canyon was the name of the place
where the Shuber brothers more especially expected to
find successful mining, but I failed to meet with any-
thing' which would jjive the least encourag-ement, or war-
rant my writing a report advising operations for the
purpose of opening mines in this section.
Strange to say, while I was in these parts, a native
chief, by the name of Ruez, came to me and told me
that he would show us a place where we could take out
plenty of gold. By this time my reader knows me well
enough to know also that such a thing merely had to be
whispered in my ear to cause me to start in search of the
promised fortune. I persuaded Mr. Hovenne to come
with me, and accompanied by two natives, we set out on
a new venture. But Luck and I, did not go to Panama
together, and after having traveled in the rain, and
slept on the damp ground for several nights in wretched
camps, we arrived at the place pointed out to us, only
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
to find that once more we had been on a fool's errand.
I now prepared a report for the benefit of Messrs.
John and Henry Shuber. I much regretted tliat I
could not write an encouraging report, but conscience
prompted me to advise them to aband(Mi all idea of work-
ing these su})posed mines. It appeared to me that
there had been a hoodoo over my whole expedition to
Panama, and no previous experience had so disgusted
me as my visit to this, the mof-t famous of Columbia's
United States. It must not be inferred from this that
the metals I went in search of, do not exist on tlie
Isthmus. Undoubtedly they do, but somehow I did
not happen to come their way. Columbia, and for that
matter the greater part of South America, is one of the
favored quarters of the globe, and I have already
mentioned the many products, minerals and precious
stones which may be found there. But even up to the
present day the country has been, comparatively, but
little worked. The Spaniards are not the ones to
develop its natural wealth, and the North Americans,
or I would rather say the Anglo-Saxons, are so far
scarce there. Moreover the climate is not conijenial to
the latter; malarial complaints often break out, and now
and again the yellow Jack is experienced with a death
rate as high as 150 in 1,000. Had the Canal been
realized, no doubt this country would have benefited by
it, or rather others would have had an opportunity to
take advantage of its resources, but since the great dis-
aster which overtook that undertaking, I should say
that many years will elapse ere Panama will afford any
other interest to the rest of the world, than the line of rail
possesses, which carries the traveler from Aspinwall to
Panama.
I was favorably impressed with the Spanish element
HUNTING FOR GOLD
3-25
of the population in this country. They were exeeed-
ini^ly courteous, and would go to niucli trouble to
accommodate a stranger. But they were great gamblers,
and the gambling houses in the city of Panama were
numerous. The favorite games were roulette, and that
other game of hazard, which a few years ago set the
tonorues of the "ossip ** a-wasfiifino: " in aristocratic En*»-
land. When I first saw baccarat played, there was no
historical interest attached to the iiame — it was as ord-
inary as draw-poker, or seven-up, is today, and I do not
believe any heavy sums were staked upon it. The
dancing of the Spanish Fandango afforded me much
amusement, as a spectator in the dance houses. The
attitudes assumed by the dancers, and the contortions
gone through by them, were very ridiculous to behold.
I was now glad to turn my back upon Panama, which
to me had been a land of continued disap})ointments.
I had wasted six months of time and spent at least six
hundeed dollars, in* a vain endeavor to find something
worth my time and trouble, and all I had to show for it
was a few pieces of pottery, which now help to make
up the bric-a-brac on the What-not of a friend, being
the only trophies, brought home by a Forty-niner, who
went abroad to worship at the shrine of Dame fortune.
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A TRIP
TO
ALASKA.
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Off for Alaska — Review of the History of the Country — Russian,
American and English Influences — The Tolstois and the
Asters — A "Wonderful Region — First Impression of Scenery
— Quoting Kate Field — Mountains and Glaciers — Lieutenant
Schwatska's Surveys — A Phantom City.
I went to Alaska solely for the purpose of taking
a cursory glance of this wonderful country. I had no
idea of staying there for any length of time, merely
desiriui; to visit some of the localities, where orold was
said to exist in sufficient quantity to induce men to go in
search of it. But, brief as my visit was to that northern
province, I am anxious to add a few remarks to the
many, which have already been published in regard to
one of the most interesting quarters of the globe.
It will be remembered that in May, 1867, the United
States paid Russia the sum of 3~, -00,000 for the
territory of Alaska, which in area is about one-sixth of
the size of the States, and probably money was never
better expended than on this occasion, when we secured
a province, abounding in natural resources A) an extra-
ordinary degree. The Russians were the first to recog-
nize the worth of Alaska. As early as 1G46 they had
pushed their explorations eastward in Siberia as ftir as
the Koly'ma River, and, eager for trade rather than for
discovery, they attempted the first voyage east of the
Koly'ma, thus finding a narrow channel between the
grounded ice and the shore. They landed in a small
bay, where they met with a number of Chirkchees, from
whom they obtained a quantity of walrus ivory, thus
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establishinj^ the first trade with the natives. From that
day to the present the deveh)pnient of Alaska has con-
tinued incessantly. Discoveries of great resources fol-
lowed one upon the other. The merchant found an in-
exhaustable field for operations in various markets.'
When in 1741 Bering made his discoveries in the
northern waters, an additional impetus was given to
trade in those regions, and the darins: naviijator little
foresaw the seemingly endless troubles, which his under-
taking should bring about, and which are today so
prominently before the world. It was more particularly
the furs and skins that then attracted the trader, but
afterwards the fisheries became of world-wide importance;
then the presence of costly metals was discovered. In
addition to all this, the Alaska of today is a place, where
the tourist and the scientist, alike, may go into ecstacies
over wonderful scenery or the discovery of natural
phenomena, which seem to connect the remote antiquity
with the present day and explain some of the mysteries
that meet us in the consideration of our own innnediate
surroundings. As yet Alaska is but little explored.
The coast is the only part that is well known with the
exception of some few inland places, more especially on
the rivers. But there are vast territories in the interior,
where proljably no human foot has ever trod, and in
that mysterious wilderness we may still expect to meet
with wonders, which shall puzzle our imagination and
surprise our senses. It has been asserted that there the
giant mastodon still roams, and who knows what their
wondrous animals, which we have believed to be extinct,
may still be found, when this terra incognits shall be
properly traversed.
These nations used their best energies to develop
Alaska, although up till '67 Russia was the only one
HUNTING FOR GOLD
331
that (lid so as a national enterprise, the others bein*; in
the field as private speculators. It is interesting to
notice, that while today Count Leo Tolstoi exercises a
remarkable ' iHuence in the matter of social problems,
one of his ancestors, Andrean Tolstoi, in 1700, fitted out
a vessel, called the "Andrean and Nathalen, ' which in
command of Maxim Lazeroff sailed from Kamschatka
and wintered on Bering Island. Lazeroff explored the
islands, which have since been called the Andrcanoffsky
Group, but it is to bo regretted that the cruel treatmetit,
to which his men subjected the natives, had much to do
with the revolting attrocities practiced afterwards by the
aborigines in retaliation of the conduct of the Europeans.
Twenty years before this the first student of science
visited these regions. It was the naturalist Louis de la
Croyere, who went with ChirikofT in the St. Paul at
the same time as Berino- and Steller in the St. Peter
sailed from Avatcha in search of the American coast,
and the man of science paid for his venture with his own
life.
But Tolstoi is by no means the only literary man of
the present day descending from one who helped to de-
velop Alaska. America threw her enterprise into the
matter, and the grandfather of the brilliant editor of the
Pall Mall Magazine, Mr. William Waldorf Astor, was
the man who first brought about a business relation be-
tween this country and Alaska. In 1810, the late John
Jacob Astor formed an association in New York under
the name of the Pacific Fur Company, but already the
previous year, he had fitted out and dispatched the ship,
Enterprise, which, in command of Captain Ebbets, ar-
rived in Sitka in July 1810. The following year Mr.
Astor dispatched the second detachment of traders under
William P. Hunt, and the trading station of Astoria
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
was establislied. The so-called Russiau-Ainorican Com-
pany was then pushiiio; trade in Alaska to the best of
their al)ility, hut the arrival of Mr. Astor's force yrawi
anew impetus to husiness. In October, 181 1, he made
an ai^reement with the Company, accordini^ to which he
pledjj^ed himself to furnisli provisions at fixed prices and
to take pay in furs from the company. They were to
mutually protect each other a<^ainst snuio;«rlers ond re-
spect each other's liuntinLi' sjfround. Astor was to take
the Company's furs to Canton and sell them on com-
mission, and both aj^reed not to sell any liquors to the
natives; but this arrangement was broken \ip by the
subsequent war between Ens^dand and the United
States. It is of interest to notice that the aijreement
was ratified and approved by the Emperor of Russia,
Alexander the first.
During that period also, in 1812, the first Russian
settlement in California was established. The idea was
to furnish Alaska with certain products, which could
not be produced there, but were easily carried along the
coast, and the settlement was established with the con-
currence of the Spanish Government, though against
the wishes of the Roman Catholic missionaries. On the
30th o^ ^Mgust Kriskoff removed this colony to a hill,
near Jie Russians called the Slaveanka River, now
1 a,s the Russian River, and the inhabitants were
pi., oipally devoted to agriculture and the drying of
meat. Wheat was also raised in large quantities and
sent to Sitka, but the Spaniard regarded the Russians
with anything but friendly feelings and did all in their
power to impede their operations. This will show how
one nation, which had a splendid chance of benefiting
by the opportunities aft'orded in Alaska, refused to do
so principally on the ground of religious differences,
HUNTING FOR GOLD
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owinuf to thu rivalry cxifiting between the CIreek and
the Koinaii Church.
In 1824 the convention between tlie United States
and Russia was si«rned at St, Petershurijfli. It provided
tliat the North Pacific sliould be open to citizens of
both nations for fishing, tradin*^ and navii^ation, except
that the trading posts of either of tlie contracting
parties should not be visited by subjects of the other
party without the consent of the officer in command.
The Russians were not to make any settlements south
of latitude fifty-six degrees forty minutes, nor could the
Americans form any north of that parallel, and it was
also provided that arms and ammunition should not be
sold to the natives. One clause in the convention was
to the effect that the liberty to navigate the Russian
waters, might be abrogated after ten years, and the
privilege was withdrawn in 1834 on the ground that
unscrupulous traders had carried on the sale of fire-arms
and spirits to the native.««.
Eniiland was the third nation to contribute, to some
extent, towards the further development of Alaska. The
Hudson Bay Company, ever on the alert to extend trade,
conceived the idea of establishing a fort on the Russian
territory, before the termination of the agreement be-
tween Great Britain and Russia, which had been made
on the same basis as the one previously referred to. So
they fitted out a vessel and dispatched the same to the
mouth of the Stikine River, but Baron Wrangel, who
was chief director of the colonies, learned of the project,
and the English were not allowed to land. Subse-
quently, however, the dispute was settled, and the Hud-
son Bay Company received a ten-years lease of a strip
of land, agreeing to pay an annual rental of furs, and to
furnish a certain amount of provisions annually, at fixed
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
rates, consisting of 560,000 pounds of wheat, 19,920
pounds of Hour, 16.160 pounds of peas, 16,160 pounds of
barley, 36,880 pounds of bacon, 19,920 pounds of beef,
and 3,680 pounds of ham.
During the year 1848, the Russian mining engineer,
Doroshin, was sent by the government to examine into
the mineral wealth of portions of Alaska, and his report
shows that 'ready in the same year when gold was dis-
covered in California, it had become evident to the Rus-
sians that their province on the Pacific Coast was gold-
bearing. In the same year, the American ship Supe-
rior, under Captain Roys, passed through Bering Straits,
being the first whaler that undertook this enterprise,
thus inauiiuratino; a series of unforeseen difficulties.
There was, probably, no circumstance which more
contributed towards brinu-inof Alaska to the front, than
the disappearance of the unfortunate Franklin in the
Arctic regions, whither he had gone in the year 1845,
in search of the northwest passage. The subsequent
expeditions, sent out to find some trace of the Franklin
party, although unsuccessful in this respect, did much
towards adding to our general knowledge of the north-
ern country, and Alaska received her share of mention.
Yet it was not until the country became a territory of
the United States, that the greatest attention was at-
tracted to Alaska. American enterprise, in every con-
ceivable branch, has placed its stamp upon the newly-
acquired land. The wonderful canneries have been es-
tablished with American money. Gold, silver and cin-
nabar mines have been opened by American labor, and
worked by our ingenuity. Our whalers yearly place
upon the world's market thousands of gallons of oil, and
thousands of pounds of whalebone, while American skill
and business capacity has made it worth the tourist's
HUNTING FOR GOLD
335
while to visit these distant parts, and view the wonder-
ful scenes presented there. For, to the man of liesure,
or the studednt of nature, Alaska possesses a charm
which is, probably, not excelled by any other country.
Its wild forests, towering mountains, wonderful glaciers;
its rugged coast, vast expanse of a sea nearly always
calm as its name — all these are features in the great pan-
orama which unfolds itself to the visitor.
A pretty picture of Alaskan scenery is presented
in the following lines by Kate Field:
"The sea is glassy, and a procession of small bergs,
broken away from the glacier, float silently towards the
South. It is nature's dead march to the sun, to melt
in its burning kisses, and to be transplanted into happy
tears. Wild ducks fly past, and from his eyrie, a bald-
headed eagle surveys the scene, deeply, darkly, beauti-
fully blue, apparently conscious that he is the symbol of
the Republic. There are glaciers and glaciers. In Swit-
zerland a glacier is a vast bed of dirty, air-holed ice that
has fastened itself, like a cold porous plaster, to the side
of an Alp. Distance alone lends enchantment to tlie
view. In Alaska, a glacier is a wonderful torrent that
seems to have been suddenly frozen when about to
plunge into the sea. Down and about mountains wind
these snow-clad serpents, extending miles inland with as
many arms, sometimes, as an octopus. Wonderfully
picturesque is the Davidson glacier, but more extended is
the Muir glacier, which marks the extreme northerly
points of pleasure travel. Imagine a glacier three miles
wide and three hundred feet high at its mouth. Think
of Niagara Falls frozen stiff; add thirty-six feet to its
hight, and you have a slight idea of the terminus of
Muir glacier, in front of which your steamer anchors;
picture a background of mountains fifteen thousand feet
336
HUNTING FOR GOLD
high, all snow-clad, and then imagine a gorgeous sun
lighting up the ice crystals with rainbow colorings. The
face of the glacier takes on the hue of aqua marine, the
hue of every bit of floating ice, big and little, thac sur-
round the steamer and make navigation serious. These
dazzling serpents move at the rate of sixty-four feet a
day. tumbling headlong into the sea, and as it falls, the
ear ; startled by submarine thunder, the echoes of
which resound far and near. Down, down, down goes
the berg, and woe to the boat in its way when it again
rises to the surface."
Such, indeed, was the impression I received on
visiting Alaska. But no less wonderful is the sail along
the coast as one passes through a perfect labyrinth of
islands. One's admiration is constantly challenged as
scene after scene unfolds itself with unexpected grandeur,
and the traveler fails t(. find words with which to express
his wonder, as he beholds the glaciers and the mount-
ains of perpetual snow.
Among the travelers of the present day, who have
added to our store of knowledge regarding this wonder-
ful region. Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka is one of
the fcremost. According to him the territory is larger
than all that part of the United States lying east of
the Mississippi river; its coast has the deepest soundings
in the world; its mountain peaks are the highest in the
whole of the American concinent; its coast line is more
extended than that of the United States; its farthermost
western- point is a greater distance west of San Francisco
than the State of Maine is east of the same city, and its
great riv^er, the Yukon, 16,000 miles long, has a mouth
wider than the distance from Keokuk to Davenport.
It is more in particular in his survey of this river that
Lieutenant Schwatka has become famous. Up to the
HUNTING FOR GOLD
337
year 1880 it was but imperfectly mapped out, but he
penetrated to its head waters, which he found were
made up of about one hundred lakes. On this j(<urney
the party passed the ruins of the old trading station of
Selkirk, which was established in '53 bul afterwiird
abandoned. A short distance above this point the river
passes through the mountains into the great plains,
where it spreads to a width of twenty^five miles. In the
middle of the plains it turns directly west at a right
angle and cuts through the mountain range at a point,
where is now established the last of the trading posts.
But Lieutenant Schwatka's most interesting journey
was probably his second expedition, during which he
accomplished the ascension of Mt. St. Elias, which rises
to an altitude of 18,000 feet above the sea. On this
occasion the party encountered the greatest difficulties
throuijhout, and the landinsjf, which took place in Icy
Bay, proved a most dangerous task. Three glaciers lie
between the bay and the mountain, of which the first
covers an area of 1,000 square miles. It is 2,650 feet
deep and has a frontage to the sea of fifty-three miles.
The scenery here is grand beyond description and the
avalanches, the chasms, the ice mountains, the floating
bergs^— all combine to produce a scene, which is most
wonderful in its eflect. It fairly dazzles the onlooker,
and as one views the surrounding nature, he realizes
that in no langruaofe known to human tony^ue can words
be found, which will adequately express the sensation,
experienced in this majestic nature.
If Mount St. Elias be imposing to behold, with its
surrounding scenery, the Muir glacier, in Glacier Bay,
is not less so. So many descriptions of these wonderful
ice-fields have already been written, that I do not feel
called upon to compete with the practiced writers whose
338
HUNTING FOR GOLD
fluent descriptious of nature so ably depict the grandeur
and beauty as it appears. But I cannot close this chap-
ter without remarking upon one of the most wonderful
phenomena, which yearly occurs in Glacier Bay during
the longest days of the month of June. As the mid-
summer (and one may almost say the midnight) sun is
setting behind Mount Fairweather, there appears upon
the bosom of Pacific glacier, a singular sight. It is a
phantom city; the mirage of an ancient, and to all appear-
ances, oriental town. Directly in front, apparently sur-
rounding the city, is a high stone wall, behind which
are seen immense buildings looming toward the sky.
The architecture is quaint and seemingly eastern. The
building material appears to be mostly stone, the roofs
are flat, and smoke may be seen issuing from the
chimneys. The streets appear to be narrow and the
buildings,some of which are evidently in course of erection,
are closely packed and do not look as if they were
placed in proper blocks or arranged according to our
ideas of a city plan. It is apparently a very large city
extending back as far as the eye can reach, and tall
spires and cupolas intersperse the contour of the picture,
which is so distinct, that it has been possible to take
well defined photographs of it. It is a fact, that, since
1880, every returning year at the same period and hour
this remarkable phenomenon repeats itself. But where
the real city is situated, which is here so strangely
reflected, no one can tell, nor have I ever heard any
scientific proposition trying to solve the problem of lo-
cating the actual city. There, in the waning light it
may be seen in the far northern land, where the ice
king reigns all the year. There it seems to float before
the vision of the puzzled spectator, whose mind invol-
untarily grapples with the wonder and tries to locate its
'ful
HUNTING FOR GOLD
339
reality. But who dwells there, no one knows. What
hopes, what fears, what longings are fostered there re-
mains a mystery. On the barren icefield of the glacier
it rises nightly for a few fleeting moments like a phantom,
called into existence by the magic wand of a fairy — a
most wonderful optical deception, a freak of nature, a
fata morgana.
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CHAPTEU II.
Miniii<( Matters — On the Stikiue River — ■Sau Fraueisco Specu-
lators in the Fiekl — Lar<^e iMiuiu<»' Machinery — Fish Oil and
Gold Dust — The Yukon Diggings — Comparison Between I'ast
and Present — Interesting Indians — Artistic Carvings — Inno-
centius Veuiaminoff — The End.
As a matter of course I paid particular attention to
the uiinino- districts of Alaska, duriuo; uiv l)rief sojourn
there, and did not forget to visit the Stikine liiver
where the first niiniuij;- camp of any account, was located
in 1876. At the mouth of the Stikine is Fort Wrangle,
called after one of the Russian Governors who, durinof
histermof office, did much for the benefit of the territov.
That Alaska is a rich gold-bearing country, there can be no
doubt, and at the time of writing this, reports are fre-
quently heard as to new mines opened up there; but I
do not think it will ever compare with the first find on
the California gold-fields, nor, indeed, with the present
sup])ly, reserved for the capitalist to reveal by
means of modern machinery. The coast of Alaska, like
the coast of British Columbia, indicates immense ofcoloo-
ical revolutions, and in my opinion, it is during such a
period that the gold, which would otherwise have been
easily accessible, has been forced downward to a lower
stratum, whence only large capital can bring it to light,
if accessible at all.
Comparatively speaking, our knowledge of the geolog-
ical conditions of Alaska, is somewhat limited, for obvi-
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
ous reasons. On the Stikine River, the gold deposits,
which are now nearly exhausted, were only worked on
the placers; but there are, no doubt, quartz veins in the
nei<>chborhood, and the miners who had the courage to
penetrate to the headwaters of the Tahco River, were
rewarded by finding coarse gold. Gold has also been
found in the sands of the Yukon, near Fort Yukon; it
exists on the Kaknu River and around the Taku vil-
lages. Of late, however, a number of enterprises have
been started in Alaska, on a large scale, for the purpose
of extracting whatever wealth the soil may hold in gold
or other precious metals. On Douglas Island the lairg-
est quartz mill in the world has been lately put up.
Two hundred and forty stamps are in operation, and the
machinery is conceded to be not only the largest, but
the most complete of its kind in existence, its monthly
output of gold bullion being roughly estimated at about
$150,000.
Douglas Island, I should say, is at present that part
of Alaska, where the richest deposits of Gold are to be
found. Here is located the celebrated Paris Mine and
Eastern and European speculators have lately bought
claims in this locality, sinking as much as $1,500,00 in
mines which will now be worked by improved machinery.
It is supposed that the country holds several gold-bear-
ino- leds^es of ijjreat size and value, and tunnels are beinsr
driven into the mountain sides with a view to opening
them. On the mainland, also, rich lodes are claimed
to exist in the so-called Silver Bow Basin, near Juneau,
and this locality is regarded with a good deal of antici-
pation. It is expected that some rich revelations will
take place here in a near future, and the sanguine ones
contend that one of the most orolific gold-fields in the
world will be found in this locality. An extension of
HUNTING FOR GOLD
343
the Silver Bow Basin is supposed to crop up at one of
the forks of Sheep Creek. Here, at all events, recent
discoveries have revealed ore that carries galena, zinc
blende, and copper pyrites, while the assays show plenty
of gold and a small percentage of silver. As a matter
of course this ore has to be treated in a smelting furnace,
but I understand that there are other lodes in the same
belt, which bear rich ore as a free milling quartz, wherein
the gold can be readily detected with the naked eye.
A Wisconsin company has lately put a small mill into
operation in the Sitka district. It is asserted that this
locality is rich in different lodes, and that gold is found
in payable quantities; but I am not aware that the Wis-
consin people have so far done any great strokes in their
venture.
On Unga Island several San Francisco companies have
engaged in developing a dozen or more claims, and I be-
lieve that with comparatively little outlay some good
results may be expected by* the way of rich returns.
The ore carries about equal parts of gold and silver and
from thirty to seventy per cent, of lead, and it is taken to
San Francisco to go throuijh the smeltini^ furnace there.
On Onolaska Island gold and silver ledcjes have been
disclosed, and it is expected that they can be worked to
advantage. Some years ago prospectors thought that
they had found gold in paying quantities in the so-called
black sands of the shores of Yakutat Bay and of the
ocean in that vicinity, and large quantities of the sand
were assayed in Sitka, showing forty dollars to the ton.
There was a rush at once, but most of the miners soon
returned disappointed. A few, who remained and had
brought with them proper appliances for the extraction
of the precious metal, were more fortunate and succeeded
in making fairly good wages, when all of a sudden they
1
344
HUNTIN(i FOK (VO-LD
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discovered that the gold had totally disappeared. A
singular explanation was given of this tact, which I re-
peat here tor the benetit of miners i)laced under similar cir-
cumstances. A large (|uantity of dog-tish had been left
to die upon the shore by the receding tide, and the oil
from these tish was drawn out by the heat of the sun's
rays. The oil permeated the sand and operated in such
a manner as to prevent the quicksilver on the plates
from picking up the gold, which was therefore carried
away in the tailings and lost.
The miners haviny: discovered the reason for their
loss, selected sand which had not been permeated with
tish oil, and were once more making their labor pay,
when a tidal wave swept into the bay and washed away
all the sand within reach containing gold. But the inci-
dent would tend to prove that it is possible to extract
gold from the sand all along the coast of these parts,
with })roper appliances and care.
In Golovin Bay a San Francisco company has opened
a silver mine, with gOv)d results. It is located in the
mountains running through the peninsula between Ber-
inij Sea and the Arctic Ocean, in latitude 65 dejrrees.
The ore here is rich, carrying all the way from seventy
to eighty-tive per cent of i)ure lead, and from one hun-
dred to two liundred and tifty dollars of silver to the ton
During my stay in Alaska, I was unable to learn
much of the diggings on the Yukon and its tributaries.
In conversation with men who had been there, or who
knew about the locality, I ascertained, however, that no
great operations had been carried on, although a good
many daring prospectors had ventured far into the inte-
rior, fighting the natives and the elements with equal
valor and tenacity. Here, to my mind, was carried on
the kind of mining mostly resembling what I had known
HUNTIN(i FOR GOLD
:U5
in till) early days <»f Ciilit'oniiu's <((>ld history. Men
would go up there in partii's and work the placers, the
same as we had done. Some of them ptMitratcd as far
as thfe Shetando, and the pan or the rocker was their
main-stay as they drew from the gravel the goldiMi
specks. 1 learned many things about these diggings
that interested me and recalled to my mind incidents of
my own life on the Yuba. The fortune-seekers on the
mining fields of to-day, seem to have much in common
with their predecessors of the long ago. They are just
as restless and just as credulous. I listened with a smile
on my lips, when they told me the wonderful stories
that would come into camp, of rich discoveries of untold
wealth. The wild i'oose chase for (jrold Lake or Lone
Tree, returned to my memory o!i such occasions. Then
again they would describe to me how they might have
become rich had they not left g(jod-paying claims to
go in search of others which were either phantoms, or
did not pan out. Alas! How often had I done the
same. And how many are there among the early pio-
neers who might now have spent the evening of their
life in comfort and ease, had they been content with the
claims that afforded them a rich yield, instead of leaving
them to ofo in search of still more majjjniticent fortunes
whicl. did not materialize. In other respects I recog-
nized features similar to those predominant on the Yuba.
It appears that the route into the upi)er Yukon country
was through the Dyah Pass. But this trail is difficult
and dangerous to travel, and the miner is not in a posi-
tion to take with him any great amount of supplies, and
therefore, when he gets to the diggings, is entirely at
the mercy of the traders, who take the same advantage
of him, that they did of us in the early days. When I
visited Alaska, I was given to understand that on this
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340
HUNTING FOR GOIJ)
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j^old-field flour was sold at thirty-five dollars a barrel;
bacon forty coats per j)ouiid; sugar thirty cents, heans
twenty cents, rice twenty-five cents, lard thirty-five
cents, and everythiiij^ else in proportion.
I was, naturally, more interested in the ^^old niining-
of Alaska than in anythini^ else appertaining^ to the pro-
ducts of the country; but I must admit that I was some-
what impressed by the grand possibilities of this terri-
tory, in other directions. I have already mentioned the
silver mines, but in addition to these are, as a matter of
course, large deposits of lead; and copper, iron and (quick-
silver are also found. The fisheries and canneries can-
not but attract the attention of the observing traveler,
and the wonderful variety of furs is not less interesting.
I would not close my brief outline of this wonderful
country without mentioning the natives, who dwell
therein. The aboriijincs are divided into a number of
tribes but Mr. William H. Dall contends that they con-
sist of two principal races,of which he calls one the Indians
and the other the Orarians, the latter name being" de-
rived from the Latin, meaning: appertaining to the
coast. He claims, and it. would seem with much justifi-
cation, that the inlahd natives and those who inhabit
the coast, are two entirely different races, and probably
no Caucasian has ever more dilligently examined into
the afiairs of the native Alaskans, than has Mr. Dall,
who, as director of the scientific corps of the Western
Union Telegraph expedition, traveled over these northern
reofions and made scientific researches of all the conditions
of the natives. To the Orarian group is counted the
inhabitants of the northern and western shores of
America, the islands of the vicinity and that part of
eastern Siberia, which is known as the Chukchee penin-
sula,and Mr. Dall divides them into three branches — the
HUNTING FOR GOLD
347
Iiniuit, tlio Aleutians and the Tuski. The Indian group
Mr. Dall divides into two branches, calling them the
Thlinkets and the Tinnels, but each of these again is
divided into a number of «ther branches or tribes.
All these diti'ere^t divisions of mankind vary in lan-
guage, in custom, in appearance from the Eskimo to
the Kygani, in whom I soon recognized my Indian
friend from the Queen Charlotte Archipelago. In fact
the Kygani and the Hydah Indians both belong to the
Thlinket group. They were the ones with whom I
came mostly in contact, and whom I therefore had the
greatest opportunity of observing, and I was nmch im-
pressed with all that I learned concerning their habits,
customs, beliefs and traditions. Singularly enough, al-
though these people live so close to the Queen Char-
lotte Indians and are, as already stated, somewhat re-
lated to them, they have traditions, in which notwith-
standing the subject matter is common, the expression
is entirely different. One of these relates to the origin
of the' heavenly bodies, and I refer my reader to the
myth, as told in the chapter of the Hydah Indians,
wliile I here produce the version, given by the Thlinkets.
Yehl or Yahl is described as the maker of woods and
waters. As he grew up he had many adventures, but
the most interesting one was experienced, when he put
the sun and moon and stars in their places, and this is
the way in which it was done. There was a rich chief
in those days, who kept the sun and moon and stars in
different boxes, which no one was allowed to touch
Yehl knew that only a grandchild of the old chief would
be permitted to handle the brilliant lights, and he deter-
mined to take upon himself this part. To this end he
transformed himself into a blade of grass and was swal-
lowed by the chief's beautiful daughter, who in due time
:U8
HUNTING FOR GOLD
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IH'ave birth to ca child, in whom Yehl was embodied.
T]ie iifraiKlfather «oon took sucli a hkiiio" to the youiiijf
child, that he could not refuse him anything. One day
lie asked to be allowed to play with the box, containing
the stars, and, having obtained permission, he removed
the lid, when, behold, the heavens suddenly became
starlit. He received a severe scoldino", but still his
giandfather could not refuse him, when he asked per-
mission to play with the other box, containing the moon.
Again the same thing happened and the old chief swore
that he would never consent to let him have the third
box, containing the sun. But Yehl kept fasting, until he
made himself sick, and then the grandfather gave in,
Yehl having solemnly promised not to open the box.
No sooner had the mischievous grandchild obtained the
box, tlian he ti'ansformed himself into a raven and flew
away. He thou removed the lid from the box, and the
sun shone over the earth, but tlie dwellers thereon,
dazzled with the unusual lio'ht, ran into the woods and
mountains, some of them diving even into the wtiters,
and many of them were transformed into animals and
fish.
These Indians do not seem to have any definite idea of
a Supreme being, and w4th them Yehl seems to be the
only recognized deity, if deity he can be called. He ar-
ranges everything for the comfort of the Thlinkets, and
then retires to his abode, where neither men nor spirits
can penetrate. Among their traditiotis there is one
which bears upon the theory of a general deluge, thus
accountinac for the diflerence of lan2fua<i:es. A few hu-
man beings were saved on a raft, but this broke in
twain. On one part of it were the ancestors of the
Thlinkets, and on the other the rest of the nations of
the world; and hence, to this day, the Thlinkets do
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350
HUNTING FOR GOLD
not speak the same language as do the rest of men.
Baron Wrangel, of whom mention has been made
several times, has collected many of the legends of these
people, as has also Mr. Dall. But in the opinion of the
latter, the Baron's accounts have been considerably
mixed with the superstitions of the Greco-Russian
Church, and is not to be relied upon in every respect.
The most remarkable feature about the Alaska na-
tive, is his wonderful idea of carving. In this regard
his skill is absolutely singular, and his imitative powers
often very remarkable. Among these people we find
the totem-pole artistically decorated, the same as I have
described in speaking of the Hydah Indians, the gro-
tesque masks and the curious carvings on all the imple-
ments and domestic utensils. But it appears to me that
in Alaska the art is carried to a still higher degree, and
the many visiting tourists which now-a-days travel over
the territory, have no doubt done much to develop the
practice by ordering things carved #which were never
thought of before, such as paper-knives, salad-forks, salt-
spoons, etc. They also understand the art of carving
one thing within another, such as several balls within
balls, and so on, and I have seen a watch-chain with
proper links, most skilfully carved from one piece of a
a walrus tusk. Neither do these people confine them-
selves to any particular material, but will apply walrus
tusk, wood, silver, gold or anything that their primitive
tools can form into articles for use, ornament or curiosity.
This talent they seem to have in common with the
Chinese, and, indeed, the native people of that northern
province, strange as it may appear, belong more to the
Mongolian type than to any other I can think of, and
is certainly not at all like the North American Indian
in appearance or habits.
HUNTING FOR GOLD
351
It is roughly estimated that there still remains about
35,000 natives who are entirely outside the boundaries
of civilization. There are about 3500 partly civilized
natives, while the Aleuts number 3,000. These latter
people are highly interesting and inhabit the Aleutian
archipelago. They nearly all speak Russian and profess
the Greco-Russian faith. They owe their present de-
gree of civilization almost entirely to the undying efforts
in the cause of humanity of the late Rev. Innocentius
Veniaminoflf of the Irkutsk Seminary, who labored
among them with a devotion and lielf-sacrifice, that have
born everlasting fruit. It is said of these people that
they are most excellent chess players. They are very
singular in their habits and ideas, and they certainly
afford interesting subjects for the student of mankind in
its various manifestations.
I have submitted these few remarks about Alaska in
hopes that they may be of some interest to the reader.
I paid but a brief visit to that wonderful land with no
other intent than to see it and ascertain a few facts
about its mining prospects, some of which I have re-
lated above. But my journey thither comprised part of
the experiences of my life, which by this time has been
a long and varied one, and for that reason I have pre-
sented in these chapters, w^iat I thought would be a
fitting termination to an account of a gold hunters
travels on the Pacific coast.
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CHIPS OF THE OLD BLOCK.
A CHAPTER DEDICATED TO THE NATIVE SONS.
The Author's Address — Pioneers and Native Hous — Two National
Days — An Organization Established — A Moth-eaten Boar
— General Winn's Efforts — A Young President — Telling
Speeches — A Birthday Party — Grand Secretary and Free-
Mason — A Kelic Saved — Men of Action.
I am approaching the close of this vohime and have
soon to fall back upon the kind indulgence of my readers,
who shall decide whether it has imparted to them any
additional knowledije or a^orded amusement I have
devoted a few of the closing pages to the memory of
scaie of my pioneer friends, wdioni I have known in Cal-
ifornia and British Columbia. Some of them still walk
in the path of life, enjoying the pleasing results of suc-
cessful labors, whilst others have crossed the bourne,
from which there is no return.
It is safe to say that these men have been among the
builders of the respective countries which they represent.
My readers will have seen what tremendous progress
has been made on the Pacific Slope within the [)ast
forty-five years, Alaska has been made accessible and
promises to become one of the world's most interest-
ing parts. British Columbia is daily being opened up
more and more and develops immense resources in its
interior as well as along the coast. California, the
country where the "citrus blossom" and the mid-
winter roses scent the air; the country that became tiie
second Colchis, has so developed since '49 that it is on a
355
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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level ^vitll many ])arts of the old world and alieud of
others; and Panama has been the scene of the most ijji-
gantic engineering projects of tlie })resent age, which,
although they have so far failed, will eventually be
written upon the pages of the world's history as one of
its wonders.
In paying a small tribute to a few of the pioneers
who in one way or another had something to do with
the success and development of the various countries, it
has not escaped my observation that there are many
whose names ought to have been particularly noticed in
these pages, while want of space has not permitted me
to follow my own desire on this point. Yet, as I reflect
upon my first entrance in California and review the
changes that have passed over that country since those
days, I cannot help remembering such names as Fre-
mont, Sutter, Marshall, Winn and others, while it
appears to me that even the name of Mariano Vallejo
demands consideration.
But, in remembering these men, one is apt to carry
his reflections into the ijeneration that followed then.
The pioneers were sturdy, but their children were no
less so; that which the former founded and commenced
to build the latter covered with a roof and cared for,
and when to-day one visits the far west and sees the
progress and the continued development, which is taking
place there, it should be borne in mind that in no parts
of this great continent is the advancement of the country
due so much to the Native Son of the soil as here on
the Pacific Slope, where distance and the expense of
traveling have kept immigration within limits more so
than in any other parts.
It was a happy thought, which first brought about
the idea of establishinijj the order of Native Sons of the
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Golden West, and it was conceived by a pioneer. To
General A. M. Winn is due tl»e credit of iiaving origi-
nated the desire to foiin sucli a society. It is somewhat
aniusiiii^ that, when the tiiought first occurred to the en-
thusiastic })ioneer, he coukl not iind a Native 8on old
enou«^h to become a duly responsible member. It was
in IS(k) that the (? .loral, havin<^ b(3en made Grand
Marshal tor the ',h of July celebration, issued a
call to voun<'' native vJalit'()rnians, uro'inLi; them to meet
him for the pur[)osc of forming a company in the parade.
His idea was that having created a patriotic enthu-
siasm amongst them, he could easily persuade them
afterwards to orofanize an association, and he evidently
foresaw that such a society woidd not oidy become an
ornament to the state, but also aot as one of the driving
wheels in the machinery which should brinix this vouiiii
but ambitious state to the front. For, although, in its
ultimate organization, politics were not among the topics
which might be discus.sed by the order, the sense of
patriotism is yet the mainspring of its existence, and
nothing will more thoroughly |)ermeate the principles
of men, guiding and directing them into one groove.
But on that June day 1SG9, when a number of young
Californians met in response to his summons, the
General was doomed to disappointment. It is a fact
that they attended in large numbers; that they exhibited
much enthusiasm and formed a pleasing feature of the
parade; but they were too young for organization, and
disbanded when the festivities were over.
But their only short-coming was one which iii time
mended itself The idea of a Native Californian Society
had been conceived, the enthusiasm created, and like an
avalanche, it increased until the time arrived when
evervthinof was readv for formation.
HUXTINO rOK (lOLU
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During tlie preparations, incidental to the celebration
of tlie Fourth of .Iiilv, 1875, (leneral Jolm McCondj
(Irand ^[arshal of the parade of tliat year, in.serted in
tlie advertising colunnis of the daily press, on the morn-
ing of June 24th, an invitation to the Native Sons of
San Francisco, over fourteen years of age to meet in the
Police Court room, Tuesday night, June 29th and
organize for the purpose of taking part in the celebration
of the 'national da} This [mblic; notice was the means
of brinixinix together the vouni»' men, who finally carried
into execution the formation of the order of Native ^ons
of the Golden West. In accordance with the call, a small
but enthusiastic body met and organized for the purpose
of taking i)art in tlie parade, and further determined to
perpetuate the organization under the name of the
.Native >^ons of the Golden i^tate, whiL* a number of those
present, who were under sixteen years, were debarred by
vote from i)articipating. Among tliose wlu) met on
that occasion were many, who have since become well
kn-own, and the followimg names are recorded: Myles V.
O'Donnell, Louis Patrick, Janjes McDermott, Abraham
Meyer, John Wilson, Walter Loveland, Charles D.
Okls, F. C. W. Fenn, Louis Harris, Raphael Prager,
Robert Aitken, James Bayliss, E. F. McKenna, E.
Block, Broderick Temple, George Winslow, and John
A. Steinback.
General Winn, who had not forgotten his plan of six
vears before was present. He now saw a chance of
having his pet idea realized, and in calling the meeting
to order, he briefly stated that its purpose was to form
a society of Native Caiifornians.
After resolving to parade on the Fourth of July, the
society "djourned to meet again on the First of July,
when Gt aeral Winn in a spirited address to the young
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HUNTINO FOR GOLD
men, used the followiiiL;' expressions: "Tliis orLiiiiiizjition
of younuf men under tlu; name of the Native Jr^ons of the
Golden i^tate is to become the future pioneers of Cali-
fornia. Such men as James Lick and otliers are fast
passinsj; away; and the rising' j^eneration will surely fill
their places, and the course adopted by jou is one that 1
liave lonuf looked for amon<jf younu' Californians. As to
the future of our State, never was there such an outlook
known in the annals o'' nistorv.
That year, '75, tlu; national day was celebrated on
Monday, the Fourth falliiiL? on Sunday. The Native
Sons made their debut in a new role; they carried a
liandsome silk American Ha;^, lent them by a patriotic
citizen, and as an eml>lem they exhibited a stuffed bear,
which had been found in a deserted room in Anthonv's
Hall. The bear ^va;^ rather the worse for moths; it was
a cub about three feet Unv^ and had been used as one of
the insii^uia of a disbanded club, but it answered the
purpose, and few, who to-day see the bear emblem
upon the breast of a Native Son, would think that it
originated with a nmst}', old straw-stuffed cub that had
been discarded by its rightful owniers.
The band of young natives made a splendid appear-
ance in the parade and it was noticeable that there was
hardly a difference of ten years between the youngest
and the oldest of them. After the parade the boys
marched to Anthony's Hall, where they held impromptu
literary exercises, and one of their number, F. G. W.
Fenn, read a poem, which he had composed for the
occasion.
The next meeting was held on Sunday, July 11th,
1875, and from this dates the beginning of the Order,
which here finally took the name of "Native Sons of
the Golden West," and John A. Steinbach was chosen
HUNTINC. FOR GOLD
rid I
the first President, ultliougli Jit the time lie was sou reel y
twenty -one years of age. A tew months after, on Oeto-
her 2 1st, a party was given at Sanders' Hall in honor of
the vouiiLr Preside!»t, who on that day heeame of age.
On 1- t occasion President Steinhach made a speech
whic»., for force and elo(|uence, was singular as coming
from a man so young. In it lie said: "Our society is
the heginning of an Order tha't will jiroudly wave its
hanners over more than half the territory of the United
States, while its power and influence may control the
destinies of the Golden West. We were born in a coun-
try of gold and silver, at a time when the world was
looking for some great change, and when we presented
it with more nu!tals than the nations of the earth had
ever seen before; with agricultural products in such
<|uantity and ((uality as to astonish mankind, it is not to
be wondered at that we are proud of the land of our
birth; and when we consider that none but self-reliant,
energetic families could get here at that early day, we
are equally proud of our parentage,"
In these last words, indeed, is the key-note to the
success of the Order, which was organized for the nm-
tual benefit, mental improvement and social intercourse
of its members; to perpetuate in the minds of all native
Californians" the memories of the days of '49, to unite
them in one harmonious body; tied toyether by the
bonds of friendship, irrespective of individual opinion on
religious and political matters, the discussion of which
is not allowed at the meetings of the Order,
Thus was established an organization v,'hich was
destined to exercise a decisive influence upon the state
that srave it birth, and to-day it is regarded as one of
the mainstays of California, Its members include pro-
fessional men of all branches; lawyers, physicians, writers.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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artists and others; men engaged in mercantile pursuits,
politicians, bankers, men of science and in short nearly
every branch of intelligent occupation is represented
anionijc the members of the Native Sons of the Golden
West. And among them are so many bright men
whose names shine in larger or smaller communities, as
their chances have allowed them, that it would be im-
possible here to enumerate them, and in mentioning
a few it must be understood that they are gathered at
I'andom, like the flowers plucked from a bed upon all of
whicli the sun throws its lustrous light.
One of the brightest men of the order is undoubtedly
Henry Lunstedt, the present Grand Secretary, who is a
native of Tuolunnie County, V)ut was educated in San
Francisco. Mr. Lunstedt was not satisfied with the
knowledge he gathered at school, and applied his leisure
hours to diligent study, making himself aquainted with
the literature of various periods and countries and subse-
quently becoming a writer himself, contributing to the
colunms of local papers and giving interesting accounts
of the proceedings of the organization. He was one of
the founders of the order, and has for twelve years held
the exalted office he now occupies.
This fact wnll show how much Mr. Lunstedt's services
are appreciated. He is considered not only a man of
culture and learning, but also of action and excellent
judgment. He exhibited from boyhood up a predelictio!i
for public life and has for years served with competency
and credit in various important and responsible capaci-
ties under the Municipal Government of San Francisco.
He is essentially a man of the world, and in the under-
takin<«'s on which his enerofies have been focussed, he
has shown phenomenal strength of purpose and sound
judgment.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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Mr Lunstedt i^' a Mason of the Scottish order,
and was tlie first Native Son to receive the thirtv-seeoiid
deijree of this fjimous rite.
In Col. Charles F. Crocker, the Golden West has a
fitting representative of the remarkable energies exhih-
ited in the State of California at the period when his
father and a few others built the first American Rail-
road which made transcontinental traveling possible.
Col. Crocker was born in Sacramento in 1854, and v/as
therefore only a boy when the great engineering work
was cari'ied out, but he inherited his father's practical
iudirment, and with the advantaiijes of surroundinofs ex-
cellently fitted himself for the high position he now
holds as First Vice-President of the Southern Pacific
Railroad Company.
Colonel Crocker received a liberal education both at
the State University of California and in Germany,
where he studied for several vears, and also attended the
Polvtechnic Institute in Brooklvn, New York.
Few men with Colonel Crocker's advantages, and en-
joying his great wealth, are as retired and modest as he.
But he has won a name as an excellent manaixer with
irreat executive abilitv, and one of the trustees of the
Leland Stanford Junior University, the order rejoiced
that one of their members, so representative, had been
honored with the call.
As a Native Son, Colonel Crocker performed most
graceful acts, when by his liberality he recently saved
the Sutter Fort property from destruction, and thus per-
served one of the most important historical monuments of
the Golden Sfate.
Among the politicians who have done credit to them-
selves and the far we.^t, is Anthony Caminetti, who now
represents the Second Congressional District of Cah-
HUNTING FOR GOLD
365
fornia, havino^ been re-elected at tlie last ofeneral election-
He, too, has worked earnestly in the interest of Cali-
fornia history, and to his untirinof efforts is due the
erection of the John Marshall Monument. During '83
and '84 as an Assemblyman and in '86 as a State Senator
he persistently urged the matter until he finally ob-
tained a favorable ap})ropriation for the desired statue.
He was appointed President of the Marshall Commission,
and as President of the Day, delivered an eloquent ad-
dress at the unveiling of the statue, which took place in
May '90.
Mr. Caminetti is a lawyer by profession, and studied
for some years under the direction of the late United
States Senator, James T. Farley. He has established a
reputation as a duent speaker and sound logician, and
possess extraordinary endurance and power of work.
It appears that law has had a particular attraction
for the Native Sons of the Golden West, and many
bright and prominent lawyers have stepped from the
parlor of the order into the bright daylight of public
renown. They have indeed done credit to themselves
and the bar and have occupied, or do at present occupy,
many prominent positions from the Judge's seat to the
lawyer, who eloquently pleads the case of his client.
Among those who have especially distinguished them-
selves should be mentioned, Frank L. Combs, who is a
native of Napa, and who, having received his education
at the public schools, finally graduated at the Colund)ia
Law College, Washington, D. C. Mr. Combs early
distinguished himself as an orator and his fine natural
talents soon broutjht him to the front. In 1879 he was
elected District Attorney of Napa County, .succeeding
himself at the next election, and in 1886 he was elected
to the leyislature and served two terms. He soon be-
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came a loader iii politics, and durini;' the Harrison ad-
ministration lie was sent to Japan as Minister })leni[>o-
tentiary as a fittinL? recognition of talent well applied.
Jo Davies Sproul was born in Solano County, in '59.
His father was a pioneer and prominent physician, who
removed to Chico ten years after the birth of his son.
Young Sproul received the appointment for West Point
Military Academy; but after two years' sojourn there he
gave up the idea of wielding the sword and returned to
take up the study of law, which he successfully com-
pleted under the guidance of F. C. Lusk, the leading-
lawyer of Northern California. ThtJ change .suited the
former aspirant to military honors, and he soon gained
a lucrative practice and hosts of friends.
One of the most remarkable mend)ers of the Order of
Native Sons is h'rank D. Kyan. Scarcely thirty-four
years of aixe: he has already been sent to legislature from
Sacramento, has officinted as chief clerk of the assembly
during two sessions thereof and is the present District
Attorney of Sacramento County. Mr. Ryan is als^ a
member of the Sutter Fort Commission and will un-
doubtedly prove one of the most efficient workers in that
important body.
When Hastin«'-'s Law Colloijfe sent out John T Greanv
a younsf man went into i)ractice, who is likely to reach
the top of the ladder. Mr Gri.^any, who was born in '60
had [)reviously studied at St. Mary's College and taken
the degree of M. A. Shortly after he was admitted to
the bar he was intrusted with the management of the
famous Blythe estnte, which was then in the hands of
Philip A. Roach, as administrator. While in this im-
portant position, managing an estate worth several
million dollar*-;, he displayed phenomenal ability as an ac-
curate and careful steward, and when, in the course of
HUNTING FOR GOLD
3G7
time, lie i^ave up his stevvardshi}); lie was IiIl^IiIv roiii-
ineiided for the excellent inaiiiier, in which lie had pci-
fornied his work.
One of the most active of Native Sons is Robert M.
Fitzo-erald, who was born in San Francisco in '08.
Shortly after, his parents removed to Sonoma County,
and later on to Contra Costa County. Mr. Fitz^yeraid
attended the Oakland Hioh School, and durinjj^ this
early period of his life he was called upon to assist his
widowed mother and before graduating spent one year
on her farm, manaofing it for her. He then returned
to school and, taking up his studies with a will, was ad-
mitted to the State University, with the class of '83
Mr. F'itz'jerald soon gained a lucrative practice as a
lawyer as well as the confidence and love of the com-
munity iu which he lived. Although he never made him-
self conspicuous as a politician, lie has been repeatedly
called upon to run for prominent offices and was on the
first board of Commissioners of Public Works in the city
of Oakland, California.
Another legal light, which was kindled at Hastings',
College, may be found in Marcellus A. Dorn. He is
both physically and intellectually atypical representative
of the sturdy Pioneer, being a man of high mental at-
tainments and commanding presence. He is a native of
Los Anixeles and graduated from the State Universitv,
and ho has always been noted for his fine address and
more than ordinarv power of oratorv.
Among the Native Sons, who went abroad for their
education and returned home, bent upon shc^wing their
splendid achievements, should be mentioned Albert F.
Jones, who was born in Colusa County in '58 and finished
his studies at Yale University in 1879. That same year
he was admitted to practice in the Supreme Courts of
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HUNTIN(i FOR (iOLD
C()nnu(;tic'ut and California and in "H'2 lie was cloctod
District Attorney of Butte County, where he has resided
since 1880. He was afterwards sent ^o tlie State Sen-
ate and became Cliairnian of tLo Judiciary Committee,
beinj^' the youn!j;est man whf) ever filled that iniportant
position in the California legishiture. Governor Bart-
lett a|)pointed him Aitl-de-Canij) with the rank of Lieuten-
ant Colonel, and he held the same olHce with Governor
Waterman.
In Yolo County there was, some years ai;o, a young
plow boy, known as Charles H. Garoutte. When his
day's work was over he would take to liis books, and,
when op[)ortunity afforded itself, he fref[U(>nted the state
school, studying with a wonderful Zealand finally obtain-
'm<j: a colleiiiate education at Hesperian Colleure, Wood-
land. He taught afterwards in the public schools, do-
voting his leisure hours to the study of law, and in 1H7G
he was admitted to practice by the Supreme Court of
the State. The following year he was elected District
Attorney for Yolo County and was re-elected upon the
expiration of the term. He finally went into active
practice and succeeded in gaining the good will and re-
sj)ect of the comnmnity to such a degree that a few years
after he was elected Judge of the Su[»erior Court of Yolo
County, being the youngest Judge on the entire bench
of the State. In this office also, he gained the confi-
dence of the people and filled it with credit t>) liimself
and to the satisfaction of his constituents, resulting in
his final elevation to the Supreme Court bench.
Durin^'' his official term as Judi^e he has heard some
of the most important cases ever tried in the State, and
as a member of the order of Native Sons, he enjoys the
m'and distinction of having broken the greatest electoral
deadlock, known in the annals of the order. In 188G»
some
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HITNTINf*. I'OK COhl)
when tlic (;lraii(l P;ulor met in VVotxiluixl, Ik; was a
}.'rari(l trustee; and (liH|»lay(Ml marked parliamentary abil-
ity, hy reaHon of wliieli lio was with one accord Hcleeted
to disHolvo tlie trianj^ular contest for th(;«(rand vieo-pres-
id(;ncy. Hin (;hoiee for the place was made by an unan-
imous vote, an(i in the followin;^ year lie Ixcame (^rand
J^resident.
As has IxM^n already shown the le<^al fraternity is lib-
erally represented in the order of Native Sons, but no
memb(;r <A' it rell<;cts mon; honor upon his (dioscn |)ro-
fcssion or possesses more friends and admirers than does
Krederi<;k (J. Clift, who was born in C;}rass Valley in
IHOZ. Justice (jlift is an Oakland lavvy(!rand Maj^istrate,
who [)Ursued his studies under the Lniidanco ofNathaniel
l>enn(;tt, on(M)f tlx^ J udj^es of the first Su[)reme Court of
(Jalifornia, and P. D. Wiurrintori, an ex-meml>er of Con-
^aess. In IH'.H) lu; was admitU.'d to th(^ bar by tlie Su-
j)reme Court, then in session in Sarrramento, and two
years after he was <leeted Justice of the J*ea(;e for Oak-
lan<l Township with an overwlujlmin^ majority.
Althou^di the discussi(jn of politics is not f)ermitt(;<J in
the [)arlors of the Order of Native Sons, it will be ob-
served, nevertheless, that the members take a lively in-
terest in political affairs.
But, it should b(; observed, that the Native Sons liave,
at all times end(;avored as far as [)ossible to jjurify th<;ir
jj^overnment. In a younj^ <;ountry as a matter of course,
certain elements often a[)f)ear in the f)(;rsons of adven-
turers and other undesirable intruders, who wish to
take advantaj^e of the crude circumstances existiri<^, arid
raise tliemselves to positi(»nf: for whicli they were never
<)Ualified. When the pioneers first came to California,
law and order were at a premium; but, as the Nativ(3
Sons grew u[), the (.-ountry, step by step, assumed the
HUNTINd l-iiH (,OlA)
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and
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the
hIiujm; of u w(!ll <)r<^ariiz(Ml Stat(;, and in tlnir hands,
nintc! tlian in any otiier.s lias l>oen left a [irccious trust,
<if" wliicli tliev ar(; indeed tiikin<f <ro()d (.'are.
It is i!itere'stin<i to notiee tlie vi'^orous, aiuJ it sliould
l»e' said Kuc(!(!ssf'ui, attempts nijid(; \>y tlie native ele-nnMit
to introduJM; in«!ans tor tlnj furtherance of pure pohties.
('aiifornia was one of the lirst states to adopt the'
Australian hallot svstt.'ni, and (jve'rvthin"" is helnLf done
in the State for the j)urt)os<i of puttin;^ down corrupt
pnicticoH in htj^islaturi;.
In this res[)(;ct VV^illiajii K, 1 learst c(Mn<;s proniin(;ntIy
to tin; front as tin; founder mikI jiroprietor of a newspap(;r,
which from first to last has fou;^ht for punj principles.
His fatlnir, the late lJnit(,'d Stat(!H Senator Ifearst, was
oiKi of th(i lucky [)ion(j(;rH, whos(j wealth (iuahhid him to
satisfy Um cravini^s of his and>itious son. Youn<c II(;arst
want(;d a n(;ws|>ap<!r and he finally etitahlished the San
Kran(;isco Daily Kxainlnar, which as a ne\VK[)a[)er enter-
prise, rardcs as one of tli(j first in the States, at all events '
relatively H[)eakinJ^^ 'I'hrou^^h its columiiH Mr. Hearst
lias fou^rht for everythin;.,^ that is ri;^dit and just. The
s(diemin(^ [)olitician, the unscrupulous mani[)ulator of
municipal affairs, the man in [)ower, who ahuses the trust
r«'posed in him — all, in fact, who (!vade the law of morals
and conscience, have iri Mr. Hearst their arch foe.
Arm(;d with a most jxjpular and wid(jly circulated pai>er,
assisted hy an arrrjy of talent(;d m<ii, he [)ursues the
ofi'ender to the hitter end, and in lej^islalure, in the
courts of justice, in th(i various pul>lic d('[)artnients has
the Native Son, throuj^^h William Ji. He-arstsenta warn-
ing call to all evil doers who att(.'m[)t to cast a blemish
U[)or» the fair name of (Jalifornia.
At the time of writing; this two other nauK
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suggest thern.selves to my mind as being those of po
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tunaiis (if tli(^ clear-cut school. '^I'licy arc Dr. (IcorL^c (J.
Panh'c of Oijklajid and Levi R. Ellcrtof'Saii Krancisco)
each ill Ills place enjoying the honor of l)eini^ Mayor of
the community \n) rcprcisents, and botli elected on the so-
call(;d citizens' or non-partisan ticket.
Tliis ticket is tlu^ outcome of viL*'<>rous attempts to
resist dastardly <)nslauj.^ht on pure |)olitical princi[)les,
hroui^ht about hy a foreitni element, which took advantam?
of nati(jnal ])oliti(;al enthusiasm to work some hidden
schemes in local affairs.
JiJut these two Native Sons took u|) the i)attle for the
just cause, and were vi(;torious. The reason is obvious;
they had tlie sym[)atliy of the native element, which
recojjJiized the fact that their affairs nmst be ij^iven into
the hands of riijjht thinking' men. Mr. Ellert has exten-
sive l)usiness interests in San Fiancisco and has h(;ld im-
portant ofHces in the Order, and J)r. Pardee resides in
Oakland, where his father has lived for many years.
He is lield in marked esteem for his personal (|ualities,
his professional attainments and his integity and honesty
of purj)ose in all that lie undertakes. He is a L''ra(luate
from the State University and afterwards studied in
Germany, where he made ophthalmology his sj)ecialty.
Ste})hen M. White, another Native Son, has come
j)rominently to tVc front as a true patriot. On the 18th
of January, '!).'}, he was elected United States Senator,
even his political opponents voting for liim. His own
character is well depicted in the closing words of his
address, when he said : "For those, who opposed me
from duty, I have nothing but the kindliest feeling, and
for those who opposed me from other motives, this liour
is my triumph." Tlie Oakland Enquirer, a paper opposed
to White in politics, but an advocate of pure politics,
wrote about his election : "It is a ijreat deal better to
IIUNTINC. FOR HOLD
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send to tli(! Semite a niuii like White witli brains in liis
head, tlian tn i^lect an old nioney-ha«jfs,who.s(! (juahKcation
consists inertily in ,L«ivin^ }ii?r)0,000 to a canipaij^n fund."
Mr. White's career, tliroughout, Iims heen oik; inces-
Hant triumpli. lie was horn in San Kraiicisro hut early
removed to Los Aiiu^eles. He inherited J)(Mn()cratie
sentiments from liis father, who was a lawyer, a writer
and a politician, and in '71) was nominated for (jiovernor hy
the workinjjf men, YounL? White studied law and early
,i,^ained a n^putation as a speaker and a logician, and wli(;n
he en'ij;ai;ed in politics rapidly rose to distinction. At
th(! time of (lovcTuor Bartlett's (h.-ath White was Presi-
dent of the Senat(3, and when Wat(!rman })ccame
(lovernor, he took the ofHce of Ijieutenant (governor.
At the Democratic National Convention in St Louis, in
'H8, Stei)heu M. White was made (chairman of the Cou-
v(!ntion, pn»vin<»' that tlu^ appreciation of his rare; abilities
ai'e hy no means local hut have secured for him a liiL,di
national reputation.
A very popular man amonj^ liis many a([uaintances is
J)r. Charles W. ]Jecker, who has met with nm<.-h suc-
cess in liis [)ra(;tice as a dentist. Dr. Decker is a nusm-
her, it is said, of more orders tliaii any other Native
Son, and has made himself lx;st known as the author of
the ritual and secret work under which the order lias
now been governed for several years.
H. C. Chi[)man, one of Sacramento's })rominent men,
was born in that city in '5'}. He has followed the trade
of a Sign painter all his life, but his rare intelligence has
secured for him public honors, of which lie may well be
proud. For three successive terms Mr. Chipman held
a seat on the B©ard of education, where he did some ex-
cellent work, and in the fall '92 lie was elected to the
assembly to represent tlie twenty-first (Hstrict
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In the order of Native Soiii,
ways been particularly active. He is a ciiarC^Wineniber
of Sacramento Parlor, No. 3, and attended the first
Grand Parlor in '82, when he was elected Grand Presi-
dent, thus being the first upon whom that exalted office
was bestowed. He is also at present the Senior Past
Grand President, and expresses his appreciation of the
Society by saying: "I have never thought enough of
any others to join them; the Native Sons are all I care
for."
If there be a class of men upon whom the welfare of
California more particularly depends, it is the agricultu-
ral, and among the farmers the order of Native Sons is
most worthily represented. One of their brightest
members, Thomas Flint, jr., whose sterling qualities and
peculiar fitness for his chosen vocation has made him one
of California's most extensive and wealthy farmers.
Mr. Flint was born in San Benito County, and has
lived there most of his life. He received a liberal edu-
cation at Dartmouth College, New Hampshire, but laid
aside his books, after graduating, in order to follow the
pleasant life of a rural occupation. His clear judgment
and sound sense soon attracted the attention of all who
came in contact with him. He was one of the most ac-
tive members of the County Board of Trade, and also
has a seat in the State Board of Trade. His sterling
qualities secured for him a seat in the Legislature,
where he has done good work, and he is spoken of by all
who know him, as a man generous to a fault, and ever
ready to give his fellow-man the benefit of his own ex-
perience. In the order of Native Sons, Mr, Flint stands
high, and no one is more devoted to its cause than he,
notwithstandinof that he is a orominent member of other
important orders
HUNTING FOR GOLD
375
The year 1 left California for British Columbia there
was born in Yuba County a boy whose future career
testifies to the sterling qualities with which he had been
endowed at his birth. His name is Fred H. Greely, he
is a native of Galena Hill, and no one more truly depicts
the full vigor of the youth of the California soil. After
graduating at the Marysville High, School he went
east and finished his studies at the Maine Wesley an
Seminary, at Keats Hill, Me., where he gradua^ted in
1880.
But Mr. Greely's mind was bent upon mercantile
pursuits, and upon his return to the Yuba he took up
his residence in Marysville, where he obtained an en-
gagement as Secretary to the Buckeye Flour Mills with
which he has been identified ever since. It was not long
ere his fellow citizens fully recognized his superior qual-
ifications for the prominent oflSces in their community,
and in 1886 he was elected Mayor of Marysville and
filled this position with credit to himself and satisfaction
to his townsmen.
Two years after he contested with Congressman
Berry for the Senatorship of the twelfth District, which
had become vacant by the death of A. L. Chandler.
Once more his many friends rallied to his support, and
he was sent to the post of honor with a handsome ma-
jority. Mr. Greely comes of the real old pioneer stock,
the early settlers in the wilderness of California, whose
energies, perseverance and undaunted courage made it
possible for others to follow in their foot-prints, and
build the cities where stood before the canvas tents.
Another Native Son, who has engaged in mercantile
pursuits is Robert P. Wieland. He inherited from his
father a large fortune, but also a temperament which did
not allow him to take any undue advantage of the favors
370
HUNTING FOR GOLD
thrust upon him by the fickle Dame. He is modest,
unpretentious and generous, and is noted for bis splendid
business talents and sound common sense.
After leaving school he attended Heald's Business
College, and subsequently graduated from a business
college in Louisville, Kentucky. Upon his return home
he at once entered upon active duty in the Philadelphia
Brewery, as shipping clerk, and is now the senior raen\ber
of that extensive establishment.
Few men possess greater business abilities and activity
than M. Wieland. Besides the important position he
holds in his own firm, he is President of the California
Bottling Company, President of the A. Folsom and
Company, a big carriage-building concern, and Vice-
president of the Clinton Consolidated Mining Company,
of which his brother Charles is President. But in ad-
dition to all this, he is widely identified with fraternal
organizations and other institutions. He is a member
of every German fraternal order is San Francisco, of
several Masonic Fraternities, and is a life member of the
Olympic Club. He is also Lieutenant in the Light
Battery A, N. G., and holds a commission as Second
Lieutenant in the California Drill Corps.
As a member of the order of Native Sons, Mr. Wie-
land has enjoyed many distinctions, the foremost of all,
perhaps, being the great popularity he has achieved
among his associates.
Among those of the Native Sons who have distin-
guished themselves whilst holding public office, should
be mentioned John. A. Grady He was born in San
Francisco in '52 and is among the patriarchs of the Order,
and no one has worked more zealously for its advance-
ment than he. He assisted in organizing the first Grand
Parlor and was afterwards elected the first Grand Presi-
If
HUNTING FOR GOLD
377
dent. In the public departments Mr. Grady has served
terms as Tax-collector of San Francisco, and also
as Deputy State Treasurer, and in both offices he has
proved himself a man of integrity and sound business
management, reflecting great credit upon his administra-
tion of public atiairs.
I cannot here pass by the memory of one who was
dear to all who knew him — the late Frank J. Higgins,
who died in San Francisco on the 3d of January, 1889,
after a most active life, in which he used his best efforts
and energies in the public service and for the benefit of
the order of Native Sons.
Mr. Higgins was for many years a special revenue of-
ficer, stationed in San Diego, where his native affability
secured him nianv friends. He lived there durino; the
good days of Southern California, and accumulated quite
a fortune through careful management and judicious in-
vestment, and his early death was a grief, not only to
his fellow-members of the Order, but to all who had en-
joyed business or friendly relations with him during his
very active life.
Mr. Higgins was born in Tuolumne County and was
educated in San Francisco. He was a life-long friend of
Grand Secretary Lunstedt, a charter member of the Or-
der, and one of its early Presidents. At his funeral was
expressed, in many fitting ways, the great esteem in
which he was held, and the sorrow that his death
broutjht to the hearts of all who knew him. But his
memory is garlanded with the flowers that never fade —
the immortelles of love, and friendship, and respect.
I have now, to the best of ray ability, brought out" the
native element of the Golden West, in its brightest col-
ors. I would not presume to say that outside the Order
to which I refer, this element does not distinctly exist,
^ir
i'K
378
HUNTING FOR GOLD
nor do I even know, for certain, that everybody I have
mentioned here, belono-s to the brotherhood. But
it must be conceded that this fraternity of Native Sons
is productive of much good, and if, as an old pioneei, aiy
opinion is worthy of notice, I would urge upon all the
desirability of joining an organization which holds to-
gether so many excellent forces, and is established witli
such a noble aim.
I have shown, too, the presence within its limits, of
representatives from nearly all walks of life. The far-
mer, the merchant, the physician, the lawyer, the edi-
tor, the artisan, the politician, and I presume it would
be possible to follow this up until all and everybody has
been included in the ranks of the Order. When I re-
flect upon the establishment of this society, and review
the part that the native element has taken in moulding
the State into its present shape, I am bound to admit
that the foresight of General Winn was keen, and the
realization of his pet dream was a most fortunate event in
the history of this State. I began my book by describ-
ing the early days of California, and it is but fitting that in
closing it, I should pay a tribute to those whose patri-
otic enthusiasm has helped so much towards establish-
iniif and ortranizino; the Golden State. "In union there
is strength," is an old but true saying, and it is by re-
membering this, that the Native Sons of California will
ultimately succeed in raising this to one of the foremost
States, pursuing their onward march, but revering as
they advance, the milestones left behind them, not for-
getting the very first one raised by the early pioneers.
SOMK OF
MY
EARLY FRIENDS.
379
DAN T. COLE.
There is probably no man identified with the early
days of pioneer settlers on the river Yuba, who has come
more prominently to the front, than Dan T. Cole, at
present a member of the board of Harbor Commissioners.
But notwithstanding this, there is no man occupying a
high office or holding a responsible position, more
modest than Mr. Cole. He is a thorough American
and to-day more proud, by far, of the liours he has
spent in hard work and honest sweat, thaii he is of the
greatest distinction thrust upon him by an appreciative
Executive who recognized his worth and ability.
Mr. Cole is a native of the state of Vermont and
came to Sacramento in the year '52. After a sojourn
of three years in that city, he spent one year in Alvarado,
and then removed to Sierra County, where he has re-
sided most of the time since, his home, "Mountain
House," being well known to a large circle of friends.
Mr. Cole is an ardent Republican. For thirty years
he has been a delegate to the State Convention, and
last year he was sent as a representative to the National
Republican Convention, held at Minneapolis,
Mr. Cole owns large property interests in Yuba
County, and is one of the directors of the Northern Cal-
ifornia Bank of Savings in Marysville. He is also
largely interested in hotel and mill property in Yuba
County, and about four years ago he invested largely in
380
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ioners.
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
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real estate in San Francisco, expending about $G0,000
on buildings in that city, where ,ue now resides.
During many years of incessant activity Mr. Cole has
been engaged in staging, saw-milling, mining and team-
ing, and for ten years he was a member of the board of
Supervisors of Sierra County. At the time when his
appointment as Harbor commissioner was rumored, his
enemies foolishly tried to besmirch his character by
publishing that he had been a stage-driver. As a mat-
ter of fact Mr. Cole never drove a stasfo himself, but he
is the last man to blush at the idea of having handled
the reins in the pursuit of an honest living, and the
accusation, false as it was, ratherer flattered than
annoyed him.
Referring to Mr. Cole's appointment to the Board of
Harbor Connnissioners the Marysville Democrat remarks
under date of January, 16, '93: "His appointment will be
received with general satisfaction, and he will be found an
efficient and honest official, who will at all times stay
with the people and oppose boodle measures, whether in
the office he fills, or in the attempt to force an unfit man
on to the people of California in the office of United
States Senator."
This comes from a paper opposed in politics to Mr.
Cole, but having known him personally for many years,
and the high opinion expressed for the Commissioner in
these lines, is well backed by all who know him and
have had an opportunity to watch him in his private and
public life. In both spheres Mr. Cole enjoys the high-
est regard and it would not be out of place here to
mention that he is blessed with a home where a model
wife, who has stood by him during his years of struggle,
presides over a family circle in which he is considered
the best of fathers and a most devoted husband.
jO,000
)le has
teaiii-
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en his
ed, his
tor by
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sidered
GEOKGE C. PERKINS.
No man is better known tiiroughout the State of Cal-
ifornia than George C. Perkins, and it safe to say that
none is more highly esteemed in the Golden State. In
saying so, one may not fear being accused of empty fiat
tery, but rather, perhaps, of having expressed too inade-
quately the great worth of a most excellent man.
Mr. Perkins arrived in California from his home in
New England, in the fall of 1855. At that time he
was a beardless youth, but had, nevertheless, seen much
of the \vt)rld as a sailor, having: made his first vovaoje as
a cabin-boy when only twelve years of age. A few days
after his arrival here he went to Sacramento, by schoon-
er, and saw for the first time the city in which he should
afterwards play a part entrusted to only the highest offi-
cers of the State. From Sacramento he \valked to Oro-
ville, a distance of one hundred miles, and displayed that
energy and persistency which gave the impetus to his
splendid career.
At that time his resources were few, but his enter-
prise and ambition were great. He first followed min-
ing, and afterwards teaming and lumbering, but not be-
ingr satisfied with the small remuneration he received
for his labors, he finally engaged in mercantile pursuits
as a clerk in the store of Hedley & Knight. Here he
laid the foundation to rapid advancement. He became
instrumental in establishing the Bank of Butte County,
built the Ophir Flour Mill, and also became interested
!■!
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38:!
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-%( ^-^-
HUNTING FOR GOLD
385
ill ininnit,', sawmills and .slieep-turuiing. Ho throve won-
derfully, and the success of his various enterprises not
only redounded t(^ his own advantage, but added to the
Wealth of the entire country.
No wonder, then, that Mr. Perkins soon became a
very popular man. In addition to his rare abilities as a
business man, he was po.ssesscd of many personal traits
which endeared him to a large circle of frietids, and at
their earnest solicitation ho entered the political arena
on the Re[)ublican side, being also hero destined to meet
with un(iualifiod success. He became a State Senator,
and during his stay at the Capital, formed a friendship
with Captain Go(jdall, of San Francisco, the result of
which was the formation of the firm of Goodall, Perkins
& Co., which to-day is one of the leading shipping en-
terprises of the coast, and it may be said, of the world.
Mr. Perkins' rise to the gubernatorial office was the
crowning success of his life, showing by a tremeridous
majority the great confidence which the people of Cali-
fornia repose in him. Mr. Perkins is a member of many
orders; he is a prominent Free Mason, and is foremost
in a number of charitable societies. In opening up a
steady trade between San Francisco and Alaska, Mr.
Perkins became the Pioneer who made it possible for
the business man and traveler alike, to visit that inter-
esting land w^ith comfort and at a small expense, and his
splendid line of steamers, calling at Alaskan ports, is
not only one of his largest enterprises, but is probably
the one which is most universally known and appre-
ciated.
880
IIUNTINC, FOR COM)
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JAMES W. ORNDORFF.
Among tlie Pioneers of California, none, perliups, is
more popular than James W, Orndorff, the [)roprietor of
the Cafe lloyal, in the Flood Building, Market street,
San Francisco. Mr, Orndorff came to this State in 'r)2,
from Zanesville, Ohio. He is of good old American
stock, of German and Irish descent, but both sides of his
family have been Anrcricans for generations.
Arriving in the Golden State, the subject of this
sketch at once turned his attention to mining, and chose
the Yuba gold field for his first prospecting operations,
remaining for ten years in various parts of that locality.
In Sierra County in 1854, he put in the first hydraulic
pipe made of sheet iron. It was a primitive affair and
would compare badly with present appliances for the
same purposes, but it did its work nevertheless. During
those years Mr. Orndorff was more in particular identi-
fied with Grizzly Hill, in Sierra County; and he went
through all the hardships of early mining in those regions.
In 18G3 Mr. Orndorff removed to Virginia City, and
spent seventeen years on or about the famous Comstock
mines, partly engaged in practical mining and at other
times cateriuix to the amusement and comforts of his
fellow men. Thus he was atone time an overseer in the
Fairvicw mine, while at another he conducted the Ash-
land Hotel. He also ran the Billiard Rooms at the
Washoe Hotel, where congregated in those days all the
men of note, a motly gathering, representing many na-
tionalities and as o-reat a varietv of characters.
While in Virginia City he took a prominent interest
in everything appertaining to the fire department. He
was Foreman of Company No. I, and afterwards of Com-
pany No. 6, which he helped to organize; and his popu-
larity in that community may be judged from the fact
38G
terest
Ho
Com-
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388
HUNTING FOR GOLD
that he was twice elected an Alderman of the city. He
is now an honored ineiiiber of the Veternau Firemen of
San Faancisco, but strancrelv enoucfh does not otherwise
belong to any fraternity or order.
As a business man Mr. Orndorff has been successful,
principally owing to his natural attractions, his sound
judgment of men and circumstance, and his even temper-
ament. He is supposed to be second to none as an
amateur billiardist and has always taken a remarkable
interest in that game. He originated the idea of the
})atent pool table, with every ball into a common box
after passing the pocket, and he had the first table of the
kind built, which may yet be seen at the Billiard room
of the Baldwin Hotel, San Francisco. But in all other
spor{s IVfr. Orndorfl has always taken particular interest,
and from his very youth he hae been ever ready to make
matches tending to the elevation of sports.
Mr. Orndorff is a great lover of i.nimals and is one of
the best read authorities on poulty in the state. He is
also, a collector of curios and has a very interesting mu-
seum at his place of business. He is a very pleasant
companion and his affability is calculated to make many
friends for him, which, indeed has been amply demon-
strated through the many years of incessant activity, he
has spent on the Pacific Coast. No doubt there are
many, who, reading this, will remember with pleasure
their stalwart friend from ahe Gold-fields, and rejoice at
once more hearing of Genial "Jim" Orndorff.
I!
ire
at
HON. EDvGAR DUDNEY.
Edgar Dudney arrived in British Columbia in the
earlv dayts. He was educated as a civil en<{ineer, and
turned his knowledge of tliis profession to good account
immediately on his arrival in the new, and then mostly
unknown, country.
There are few men who have more thoroughly ex-
plored the mountainous regions of British Columbia,
than has Mr. Dudney. As a prospector and surveyor
he penetrated early into many then unknown quarters,
and located mining claims in the interior of the colony
as the roads thither gradually became o]iened,and in this
regard much credit is also due to Mr. Dudnev as a
gentleman w4iose efforts helped to bring about final
settlement of laruje and uninhabited tracts of land.
As a result of his explorations, Mr. Dudney acquired
an extensive knowledge of the nature and requirements
of the country, and paid particular attention to the
condition of the natives, wlierefore, also, Sir John Mc-
Donald was pleased to offer him a portfolio in his cabinet
as minister of Indian affairs, and in this position Mr.
Dudney rendered his country important services, and
proved himself an able administrator.
The final success in Mr. Dudnev's career was achieved
when Her Britanic Majesty appointed him Governor of
the colony, an office which he still holds. In this capac-
ity Mr. Dudney has proved himself worthy of the trust
3ft'.t
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
891
reposed in him, and is one of the most popular Governors
that ever conducted the affairs of tlie colony. Notwith-
standmg he is the last of the number, he is generally
known as the Pioneer Governor, because of the many
services he rendered the pioneers in the early days and
It IS safe to say that among th<3m he is held in partic-
ular esteem, and they, perhaps, more than any other
class of men, appreciate those sterling qualities which
have brought him to the honorable post he now occu-
pies.
ml n'f'
iml
ROBERT DUNSMUIR.
As early as 1849, Robert Duiisnmir, left Ayrshire, in
Scotland, under an engagement with tlie Hudson Bay
Company. He settled in Nanaimo, Vancouver Island,
as Superintendent of the local branch of this extensive
Company, and soon achieved universal popularity.
Besides proving himself a business man of rare ability,
Mr. Dunsmuir also engaged, from the very start, in
various kinds of philanthropic movements, gaining a
host of friends by his generous and charitable disposition.
One of Mr. Dunsnmir's first ventures was prospecting
for coal. In his native country he had learned enough
about the black diamond to appreciate its value, and
recognized its existence wherever found, and it was,
therefore, not to be wondered at that he met with un-
qualified success in a country, which is rich in coal.
He gradually extended his speculation, and bought ex-
tensive mines in Union, Komax District, which proved
a most profitable speculation.
Later on, Mr. Dunsmuir built the Esquimalt and
Nanaimo N. G. R. 11., which became a very payable
concern, and, indeed, is a great acquisition to the country
through which it passes.
But the crowning success of Mr. Dunsmuir's life was
when he secured a larsfe interest in the Wellino^ton
coal mines, situated at Wellington, above Nanaimo.
392
'11;^
ROBERT DUNSMUIR.
1
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HUNTING FOR GOLD
There an: few people in America who have not heard of
tlie product turned out so extensively at these mines,
and upon the death of Mr. Kobert Dunsnmir, his eldest
son, Alexander, became the head of the business, and is
now conductinof the local depot for California in Sau
Francisco.
The recollection of the subject of this brief sketch is
dear to all who knew him, and none of his old friends
can read this tribute to his memory, without remember-
ing a good man, a faithful friend and a thorough bus-
iness man.
!i
ff
WILLIAM IRWIN.
Ainoiiix the men who have donei^ood and lioncst work
for Cahfornia, that of Wiihaiii Irwin is inscribed upon
one of the foremost pages of the history of this State.
Mr. Irwin was a native of Ohio, and devoted his
youth to a college education and the study of law, which
excellently fitted him for the important positions which
he afterwards held.
In the year 1852, being then twenty-six years of
ayje, Mr. Irwin came to California, and at once enifaiifed
In practical business is Siskiyou County. He led a most
active life, and was successively a bulcher, a miner, the
the owner of a livery stable, and afterwards, of a line of
stage-coaches, finally becoming proprietor of the Yreka
Union, which he raised to one of the most important
country papers in the State.
In 1861 he was elected to the Assembly, from Siski-
you, and although he served only one term, this was
the beginning of a long and important public career. In
1869 he was elected to the Senate, and upon the expira-
tion of his term, was re-elected, being chosen during the
latter term, President pro tern. During that period
Governoor Booth was elected United States Senator,
and was sueceedded by Lieutenant Governor Pacheco,
while William Irwin became Lieutenant Governor by
virtue of his position as President pro tern of the Senate.
In 1875 Mr. Irwin was elected Governor of the State,
I
I
EX GOVERNOR IRWIN.
HUNTING FOR GOLD
;m)7
and ill 1883, while Stoiieinan was Governor, he was ap-
pointed to a seat on tlie State Harhor C(MMinission,
servin«4 tlie four-year term. While holdinir this office he
became sick, and expired on March loth, 1880, at Hotel
Bella Vista, thus endinj^ a useful career and leavinjjf a
spotless reputation, and the memory of one who always
did his duty conscienciously and fearlessly.
Durini^ Governor Irwin's incundjency, the act to take
the po[)ular vote on the Chinese question, was passed,
being approved by him 8eptend)er 21st, 1877. At the
general election in Septend)er 187*J, the result showed
for Chinese immigration 8.S3 votes, and against it 154,-
638. This was probably the most important measure
enacted during his term of office, and was, so to speak,
the first ster) towards the realization of the now famous
Geary Exclusion Act.
I
•I
i
WA
COTS-TENTB.
CALIFe^IiXIA.
CHAPTER I.
Introductory Remark.s-At Home in Scotlaud-First Voyage
"--A Sailor on the Lakes-Lumber trade in Buffalo-The
Cxold Fever-Round the Horn-Sun Francisco— Expen-
sive Dinners-The CUoriou. Fourth-Generous Gamblers
— J^un With the Immi^n-antK.
CHAPTKll II.
On Board the Milwaukee-Xo Clearance Papers-Going Up
the River— Sacramento— Teamsters Talk— Off For The
Yuba— First Experience— War Upon Foreigners— A Si-
lent Friend- Store Keeping— Lumpy Gold-Re&tless-
Foster's Bar-Sick Men With Great Appetites-In Search
Of a Partner.
CHAPTER III.
Off for the Mines Again— The Earlv Discovery of Gold-1
Free Mason of 1820-An Interesting Document in San
Francisco-Did the Priests Hold the Secret?-Captain
VV. H. Thomas' Account— Under the Wild Onions— "Cut
Eye" Foster-A Sickly Man from Massachusetts-Jim
Crow IS Introduced-Over the Range-Facing the Wilds. 27
CHAPTER ly.
Through the Woods-Meeting Two Grizzlies-Across the
River in a Hurry-McNair's Island-The Color of Gold-
Ov. the Ridge-We- strike the Rivei—A Noise in the
899
15
400
CONTENTS
Bushes — Roiiiul the Point — A Scene that (Charmed Us —
The Forks at Last — Sullen Miners — Moving Cami^ — Mules
on the Hillside — Camped on the Yuba — Reminiscences of
Philo Haven. 37
CHAPTER V.
Down to Business — A Fish Story — Lead Weights and Brass
Weights — Cre vicing — Breyfogle Flat — A Mule in a Hor-
nets' Nest — Mamoo the Egyptian — A Negro from Virginia
— Rich Finds — Treacherous Friends — Mr. John Potter —
Flour Worth More Than Gold— A Very Sick Man— On
the Site of Dovvnieville. 47
■ m
m
CHAPTER VI.
Death of a Friend — Andrew Goodyear — Bone Soup — At Sim-
mons' Camp — Cooking Under Arms — Four Dead Mules
—"Cut-Eye" Out of Temper— The Ax on the Ledge-
Back at the Forks — The First Dwelling in Downieville —
('iiristmas — The Stars and Stripes in the Sierras — Mag-
jaificent Scenery. 57
CHAPTER VII.
Life in the Cabin — The Bill of Fare — A Prospecting Fever —
The Dangers of Traveling — Arrival of Mrs. James Gallo-
way — A Poor Gin Mill — -Jack Smith and His Jokes — Up
a Tree After Gold — Expensive Rations — William Slater
— ^A Rush of Miners — Taking up Claims — The Necessity
for Laws. 69
CHAPTER VIII.
Adopting a Code — Remarkable Observations — The Oh-be-joy ■
f ul — Changing a Name — A Bit of Early History — Samuel
Langton — A Bag of Gold — Etiquette in the Barroom —
Corn Meal Fixings — Reading the First Newspaper —
Meeting Jim Crow — Phantom Treasures. 80
■ CHAPTER IX.
An Unfortunate Family — A Company of Sailors — After "Old
Downie" — Single Men and Married Men — William Slater's
Exit — A Note Due Over Forty Years — Law ^.nd Lawyers
CONTENTS
401
— "Uncle Jimmie" — A Discourse About Drinkin<:jf — My
Claim Wa>3 Gone — The Eighth Couimaudiuent. 93
CHAPTER X.
A Spree For a Tip- Our Social Conditions— The Glorious
Fourth— A Dinner at Galloway's — A Fight for Blood —
A Speedy Trial — Thirty-nine Lashes — Big Logan — A
Singular Suicide — Prospecting With Kanakas — A Rough
Journey — Verdant Pastures. 105
CHAPTER XI.
Another Winter in the Mountains— Captain Thomas R. Stod-
dard— Two Well-known Millionairs — Fifteen-Hundred
Dollars a Day — Gold on the Wagon Tires — Sleeping on
a Fortune — Fluming a River — Poorman's Creek — Back
to Downieville— Ten Bits to the Pan— Rantedodler Bar
— Sunday Reminiscences. 119
»
CHAPTER XII.
A Severe Winter — Alexander McDonald — Close to a Fortune
— A Lawsuit — Organizing a Mining District — Sluicing
and Tunneling— The Summer of '58 — Reports From the
Eraser — A Wind-up — Now and Then — Quoting a Forty-
niner. 133
YUEA SKKTCHKS.
LYNCHING A BEAUTY,
THE BLOODY CODE,
RIVALRY AND DEATH,
A FORTY-NINER'S YARNS,
FROM OBSCURITY TO FAME,
A SLAP JACK FIEND,
YUBA POETS AND POETRY.
145
154
166
172
180
187
190
402
CONTENTS
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
CHAPTER I.
Arrival at Victoria — Sharp Practice — Indians Bring the First
Gold — The Hudson Bay Company — An Energetic Gover-
nor — A Route to the Mines — Joining an Expedition —
Natives Surprised — The Dame and the Bullets — Adven-
tures on a Stream — Lilooet Lake — A Favorable Report —
An Attempt That Failed.
CHAPTER II.
Queen Charlotte Island — Gold Harbor — Scotch Guy — The
Majesty of Nature — Captain Gold — Potlatch — Political
Campaigns — Totems — Architecture and Art — An Inter-
esting People — Vanity of Savagedom — Curious CuStoms
— The Death Dance — Mvth and Legend.
CHAPTER III.
11)9
210
Fort Simpson — On the River Skeena — "Pioneer H. B. C." —
A Tempting Offer — Locatin A Pass — What A Gold Band
Did— Red Paint — Bon Jour — Frank's Curly Hair — Chief
Sal-tow-tow — White Men in the Wilderness — Days of
Privation — A Poor Craft — Head Factor, Peter Ogdeu —
A California Monte Bank in Victoria. 222
CHAPTER IV.
Surveying the Inlets — Looking for a Wagon Road to the
Eraser — Jarvis Inlet — An Awful Ravine — Desolation
Sound — All by Myself — The Bears Came Rushing Down
— The Kle-na-Klene River — Bella Coola — Dean Canal —
A Land Boom — False Rejiorts — Mr. Tovalloit Prevari-
cates — Spearing Salmon — Indians From Fort Eraser —
After Gold on the Naas. 235
CHAPTER V.
My Partners — Visiting Friends — The Village of Tsawatti —
Villainous Indians — Anxious Moments — Friends in Need
Bute Inlet — On the Homathco — Auxiliary Rivers — Won-
CONTEfJTS
403
derful Scenery — Glaciers Ahead — A Sick Indian — Great
Hardships- Tlie Tequahan and the Moniria- Poor Luck
— What a Newspaiiei Said. 248
CHAPTER VI.
Unscrupulous Speculators — The Pre-emption Law — The Peo-
ple of Westminster — Two Explorers — False Reports —
A Rowdy Audience — Cariboo Mining — Trying to Pump
Gold — The Money Ran Out — Waddington's Enterprise
— A Camp at Bute Inlet — Treacherous Indians — ANiglit
Of Horrors— The Avenger— The Killing of a Dear Friend. 2G8
CHAPTER VII.
The Gold Export Tax — Captain Evans and His Son — In the
Editor's Room — The Russo-Americau Telegraph — Two
Different Routes— How To Go To Work— Once More
at Dean Canal — Some Beautiful Land — Predicting A.
Bright Future— ^on. John Robsou— The Famous Granite
Creek — Lumps of Gold — Advice to Disheartened Miners
— Comparing Past and Present. 27;!
CHAPTER VIII.
Indians — The Value of Natives — Medicine Men and Supersti-
tion — An Incident at Yuclatan Village — Heart Disease
and no Bullet— Memoir From the Naas River — Singular
Customs— The Price of Flour— The White Man and the
Red Man — How They Died— Scarlet Fever — Indian Me-
chanics — A Promising Country. 288
PANAMA.
CHAPTER I.
Taking A Rest — A New Friend— Queer Conversation— How
Van Sickles Dug Gold— My Greatest Chance- Panama
the Place— Departure— A Qurious Old City— Difficult
Mountain Trails — Down With Fever— An Indian Grave-
yard-Digging For Gold— Pottery Qalore— A Curious
Whistle — My Collection Spoiled— Moving to Other Parts.
803
404
CONTKNTS
CHAPTER II.
The Chirifjue — Auotber Graveyard — ^lore Pottery — David
City -The Slmber Brothers — A Native Ho^' — Singular
Tombs — Above theCh)udK — Abaudoninfj; (irave Dij^oiucr
— Lookinj'' For Copjjer — A Perfect Hoodoo — Farewell
Pauaina — Bric-a-brac.
914
!l !lfl
A TRIP TO ALASKA.
CHAPTER I.
Off for Alaska — Review of the History of the Country —
Russian, American and English Influences — The Tolstois
and the Astors — A Wonderful Region — First Impression
of Scenery — Quoting Kate Field — Moiuitains and Gla-
ciers — Lieutenant Schwatska's Surveys — A Phantom
City. " 82!)
CHAPTER II.
Mining Matters — On the Stikine River — San Francisco Spec-
ulators in the Field — Large Mining Machinery — Fish Oil
and Gold Dust — The Yukon Diggings — Comparison
Between Past and Present — Interesting Indians — Artistic
Carvings — Innocentius Veuiamiuofif — The End. 340
TPIK NATIVE SONS.
CHIPS OF THE OLD BLOCK.
The Author's Address — Pioneers and Native Sons — Two
National Holidays — An Organization Established — A
Moth-eaten Bear — General Winn's Efforts — A Young
President — Telling Speeches — A Birthday Party — Grand
Secretary and Free Mason — A Relic Saved — Men of
Action.
355
CONTKN'rS
405
SOMK OF MY OLD P^RIEXDS.
D. T. (X)LE.
EX-GO VEENOR GEORGE C. PERKINS.
JAMES W. ORNDORFF.
LIEUT. GOVERNOR DUDNEY.
ROBERT DUNSMUIR.
EX-GOVERNOR IRWIN.
;}8()
383
38G
389
392
395
ILLUSTRATIONS.
FRONTISPIECE
I.MMIGRANT TRAIN NEARING THE SACRAMENTO 18
SACRAMENTO IN FORTY-NINE 20
C!APTAIN JOHN A. SUTTER, 22
SUTTER'S :\IILL, COLOMA, CAL., 28
CARMEL MISSION. NEAR MONTEREi^ CAL., ' 31
LOOKING FOR THE COLOR, 88
WORKING THE ROCKER. 44
VIEW IN SACRAMENTO IN THE FIFTIES, 53
A LONELY MOUNTAINEER, GO
DONNER LAKE, SUMMIT OF THE SIERRAS, G7
VIEW OF LAKE TAHOE, 73
THE OLD CABIN AT DOWNIEVILLE, 86
OFF TO THE DIGGINGS, 9^
AFTER OLD DOWNIE, Qfi
VARIOUS METHODS OF MINING, 102
VIEW OF THE SIERRA BUTTES, 108
CATCHING BREAKFAST ON THE YUBA, 114
THE DESERTED CABINS, 121
400
CONTENTS
VIEW OF GOLD LAKE, 129
GROUND SLUICING IN THE EARLY DAYS, 185
DOWNII]VILLE IN THE EARLY FIFTIES, 189
DOWNIEVILLE OF TO-DAY, . 144
HANGING OF JU ANITA, . ir,l
COMING OVER THE MOUNTAINS, 15(5
DUEL BETWEEN LIPPENCOTT AND TEVIS, 102
PHILO A. HAVEN, 100
DEATH OF MOFFATT, 177
LOUISE H. MACK AY, 183
VICTORIA BEFORE THE BOOM, 19S
SIR JAMES DOU(iLASS, K. C. B., 205
HYDAH INDIAN CHIEFS, 215
MASSET, QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLAND, 229
A GROUP OF NAAS INDIANS, . 239
NANAIMO, 255
BARNARD GLACIERS, ON THE SKEENA RIVER, 209
KOSKEEMO INDIAN CHIEFS, 281
FORT SIMPSON, 291
RELIC FROM AN INC A GRAVE, . 312
DANCING THE FANDANGO, 321
AMONGST THE ICEBERGS IN GLACIER BAY, 328
WRANGEL ISLAND, ALASKA, 341
GLACIER BAY, SHOWING SECTION OF MUIR GLACIER, 349
WILLIAM R. HEARST, 354
HON. STEPHEN M. AVHITE, 357
HON. GEORGE C. PARDEE, . 357
HON. LEVI R. ELLERT, 357
HON. THOMAS FLINT JR., 357
ROBERT WIELAND, ■' . 357
♦
CONTENTS
HON. R. F. DEL VALLE,
FREDERICK C. CLIFT,
HENRY LUNSTEDT,
JOHN A. STEINBACH,
HON. C. H. GAROUTTE,
R. M. FITZGERALD,
DR. C. W. DECKER,
COL. C. F. CROCKER,
JOHN T. GREANEY,
HON. FRANK L. COPIES,
H. CLAY CHIPMAN,
FRANK D. RYAN,
M. A. DORN,
FRANK J. HIGGINS,
JOHN H. GRADY,
JO D. SPROUL,
D. T. COLE.
EX-GOVERNOR GEORGE C. PERKINS.
JAMES AV. ORNDORFF.
LIEUT. GOVERNOR DUDNEY.
ROBERT DUNSMUIR.
EX-GOVERNOR IRWIN.
407
a57
357
8G3
363
303
363
363
363
363
369
869
869
369
369
369
369
381
384
387
390
393
396