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IV.-. 1 l.v i;,tv''l-m(U-i.
hthlL\-hf.i Ja/i /->Va' j*i J.'/ift MiiiTJii / rnJU'ti
r
1=1
IN A SNOW MCOHM Arts 1^ 1827
IM,
wrm
■^WKKATIVE
A N ..V T 1 i: M i ■] i O R K A (.. U
!!£
'ii. •
A
<n': T ii IM) L, I':
IMS MA!£STY S SHIP liK-l^A,
v\ THE vj:ar mo( <"rx?\vri,,
^ .PT:^^^ V^U.IJAM Fr»W.\]U.^ J'AURT, HX, FR,.S.
i:.!..i:S'n(.
Ni) CHARTS.
1
,PC^L/S.W./.^ /;V .{f'THOUlTY OF JUS IHY AL If.lGJfSLSS
.1;
o.'cexw :f!
I
1
:.•»!!*» :!^ ." It'-iv
NARRATIVE
or
AN ATTEMPT TO REACH
THE
NORTH POLE,
IN BOATS FITTED FOR THE PURPOSE, AND ATTACHED TO
HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP HECLA,
IN THE YEAR MDCCCXXVII.,
UNDER THE COMMAND OF
I
CAPTAIN WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY, R.N., F.R.S.,
AND HONORARY MEMBER OF THK IMPERIAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AT
ST. PETERSBURG).
ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES AND CHARTS.
PUBLISHED BY AUl'HORITY OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY,
PUBLISHER TO THE ADMIRALTY, AND BOARD OF LONGITUDE.
MDCCCXXVIII.
s?
■9
LONDON :
Printed hjr Wili.iau Ciowts,
Stamford-street.
7:j'633
TO
SUi HUMPHRY DAVy, «ART.,
LATE PRESIDENT,
AM) 1(1
THE COUNCIL OF THE ROYAL SOCIEIV,
HY WH'JSK RHCO.MMKNIMIUIX
THK ATTKMPl To RKAI 1{ THK NdRTlI I'OLK, HKCORUKD IN THK KOLLOWlMi l'A(yhs, WAS INHKllTAKhN
HV (ilU)KIt OK rilK 1 ATK I.oKDS COMMISSIONKRS OK THK AI>.\I|RAI,TV.
THIS VOLUME
IS INSCKIBKD
r.V THKIR KAITIIKl'I. AND OBKDIKNT SKKVANT.
WILLIAM EDWAllD PAliKV
AliMlKAI.iK JllllllUll/. IH'i.S.
1
f
4
CONTENTS.
Introduction ix
Ollk'iiil Instructions xix
Explunutiun ul' Technical TerniH xxiii
(
Departure from the Nore
Arrival at Hammerfest
Hydrographical Remarks upon the Port|
of Hammerfest
Leave Hammerfest
Meet with the ice
Reach Hackluyt's Headland
Break adriA, and placed in a precarious ^
situation j
Beset in the ice and severely " nipped"
Land on Red Beach
Attempt to set off with the boats
Proposed alteration of plan
Precarious situation of the ship
Inexpediency of quitting her while thusj
situated J
Land near Mussell Bay
Remarkably fine weather
Escape from the ice into open water toi
the eastward j
Impracticability of approaching the land,]
to search for a harbour. ... j
Arrive off Walden Island
Ditto off Little Table Island
Ditto in Latitude 81° 5' 32"
Land on Walden Island
Return towards Little Table Island and)
land upon it )
Page
2
4
10
11
13
15
19
id.
22
24
27
29
31
34
35
38
41
42
43
46
47
PiiKf
50
52
54
Stand again to the southward and dis-l
cover Heda Cove, where the ship is I
secured J
Leave the Hecla in the boats
Touch at Walden and Little Taiile i
Islands ; set off to the northward and >
meet with the ice )
Plan of travelling upon the ice 55
Allowance of Provisions, &c 59
Commence travelling over the ice ... . 59, 60
Much rain 61
Method of carrying the Instruments, ... 63
And of selecting the best road 6V
Very laborious travelling 69
Mackintosh's water-proof Canvas 72
No appearance of large or level ice ... . 75
Much water upon the ice 77, 80
A rare bird (the Ross Gull) seen 81
The fee very dangerous for the provisions 82
One of the boats nearly upset 84
Remarkable duration of rain id.
More open water than usual 87
And thicker ice gy
Killed a seal 91
Snow-blindness 93
One of the boats nearly upset 92, 93
Northerly wind commences . 93
Considerable southerly drift perceived , . 94
I
lO.NTENTS.
^
il
,i:i
li'i
n\
II.'
I'rovidi'iilially I'scMpi' the los^ot'oiir pnt-i
visions, iiy (In- ici" liiL'ukiiig' |
A second seul killed
Urilliimt |irisin;ilict'ol()iir.s redt'ctt'd Iroml
ilk' siiow-crystiils )
Si ill no fields of ice to lie seen
A beautiful phenomenon, consisting of |
six (oit'-bows '
liiciitcnant lloss liiu't
Ciintinued sonllierly set observed ....
hn|)ossibility of making uny profrpess to J
(lie northward; determine on return-!-
'"!;• I
<)l)scrvali(His made at our furthest north
Set out on our return
The snow much tin^'ed with red colour- i
iuii' matter |
Peculiar refraction of the ice
•Some of the men suircring from chil-l
l)lains, &c I
Kow across a lake of fresh water upon i
the ice j
A bear killed
Hard rain
l'll«t!
97
99
100
101
102
and
103
101
lOG
109
112
113
114
id.
115
Incrcuie of open water
Contimied drift of the ice to the southward
llcach the open sea and (|uit the ice . .
Arris e at Table Island
I'eople much exhausted on nur reuehin^'j
VValden Island f
Reach Deverly and Hird Buys
Description of Low Island
lleturn to the Heclu .
Distance travelled
Proceedings on board during our absence
Mr. Cow's ingenious boat for weighing |
anchors (
Lieutenant Foster's Survey of W'tiygatz |
Strait I
Description of Treurenburg Bay
Leave Ilecla Cove
Arrive at Balta Sound
Leave Baltu and arrive at Lung Mope . .
Quit the Hecla and arrive in London . .
Death of Mr. George Crawford
Ilcclu paid off.
Remarks on the nature, &c., of thisi
enterprise )
I'.iK''
lUi
117
IIS
111/
121
I2.S
124
127
I2.S
I2!>
i;jn
1.12
133
i3h
139
140
141
id.
142
id.
APPENDIX.
Page
Xo. I. Meteorological Journals lal
II. Notice respecting the Chronometers, &c 163
III. Dip of the Magnetic Needle 167
IV. Variation of the Magnetic Needle 171
V. Diurnal Variation of the Magnetic Needle 173
VI. Diurnal Changes of Intensity in the Magnetic Needle 179
VII. Temperature and Specific Gravity of Sea-water below the surface 185
NATURAL HISTORY.— Zoology 189
Botany 207
Geology -223
DIRECTIONS TO TIIK BIXUEIl FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
The Bouts oflTWaldeii Island in a Snow-SUmn—Fionlhpinr.
Pliin of the Port of llninmerfest to J ace pase. 7
Dopurtiire of the Houts from Hecia Cove „ 52
The Boats huiiled up i;)r the nif^ht „ 58
Truvellingf amonjr Himmiocks of Ice „ !)(»
Plan of Treiirenl)iirg Bay 13.1
The Chart of the North Coast of Spitzhergen to he ph.ced at the end
of tlie book.
ElinATA.
Page 37, bottom liiie,/or " affod," read " lUTord."
43, first liiie,/«r " three to four," read " Cmir to five."
W., note, dele " subsequently."
52, line 10, for 2(;o, read 2«tl.
CO, line L'O, for " In," rcatl " It."
n
ir
■1
■§
i
m.
i
I
INTIIODUCTIOX.
In April, 1826, I proposed to the Eight Honourable Vis-
count Melville, First Lord Commissioner of the Admiralty,
to attempt to reach the North Pole, by means of travelline:
^vith sledge-boats over the ice, or through any spaces of
open water that might occur, lly proposal was soon after
referred to the President and Council of the Royal Society,
who strongly recommended its adoption ; and an Expedition
being accordingly directed to be equij^ped for this purpose,
I had the honor of being appointed to the command of it ;
and my commission for His Majesty's Ship the Hecla, which
was intended to carry us to Spitzbergen, was dated the ilth
of November, 1826.
The reports of several of our navigators who had visited
Spitzbergen, and were well qualified to judge of the nature
of the polar ice, concur in representing it as by no means
unfavourable for this project. From one of the Seven
Islands, and almost on the very spot from which we subse-
quently took our departure in the boats. Captain Lutwidgc,
the associate of Captain PhiiDps in the Expedition towards
the North Pole in 1773, describes the ice to the north-east-
b
INTRODUCTION.
,j:„i
ward, to the distance of ten or twelve leagues, to have the
appearance of " one continued plain of smooth unhroken
ice, bounded only by the horizon." In Captain Phipps's
chart of that voyage, the ice to the northward of the Seven
Islands is represented as " flat and unbroken ;" and, in
another situation, rather more to the westward, and about
the same parallel, he describes the " main body of the ice
to be lying in a line, nearly east and west, quite solid *."
The testimony of Mr. Scoresby, jun., a close and intelli-
gent observer of nature in these regions, is entirely to the
same effect. " I once saw," says he, " a field that was so
free from either fissure or hummock, that I imagine, had
it been free from snow, a coach might have been driven
many leagues over it in a direct line, without obstruction
or danger." Indeed, in a paper upon the subject of the
Polar Ice, presented by Mr. Scoresby to the Wernerian
Society of Edinburgh, and published in their Memoirs -f-, he
enters at considerable length into the arguments in favour
of the practicability of this enterprise, and in his subsequent
work, above quoted, repeats his conviction to the same
effect ^. To the respectable authorities already mentioned
I may also add the testimony of several intelligent and
experienced whalers, whom I consulted as to the nature of
* Phipps's Voyage towards the North Pole, pp. 59 — 60, 55.
t Vol. ii. p. 328.
J Scoresby's Account of the Arctic Regions, i. 54 — 61, 242.
I
INTRODUCTION.
XI
t
1
I
•I
i
m
M
m
the ice, with reference to this project ; and who, without
exception, agreed in considering it as highly favourable for
the purpose.
But the hopes I had formed of being able to attain this
object, and the plan now suggested for putting it into exe-
cution, were principally founded on a similar proposition
formerly made by my friend and brother-officer. Captain
Franklin, who, judging of this enterprise by his own experi-
ence, as well as by that of his associates, Captains Buchan and
Beechey, though by no means thinking lightly of the labour
and hazard attending it, had drawn up a plan for making
the attempt, and himself volunteered to conduct it*. Fol-
lowing up, in the most essential particulars, the plan of this
distinguished traveller, the principal features of which will
best be understood by reference to my Official Instructions,
two boats were constructed at Woolwich, under my super-
intendence, after an excellent model suggested by Mr.
Peake, and nearly resembling what are called "troop-boats,"
having great flatness of floor, with the extreme breadth
carried well forward and aft, and possessing the utmost
buoyancy, as well as capacity foi-^ stowage. Their length
was twenty feet, and their extreme breadth seven feet.
The timbers were made of tough ash and hickory, one inch
by half an inch square, and a foot apart, with a « half-
* This plan, as originally proposed by Captain Franklin, was given to me by
Mr. Barrow, soon after my return from the Expedition of 182i-5.
b 2
Xll
INTRODUCTION.
;.■'!
ii 'i
■ 'I''
1, ^
I il
timber " of smaller size between each two. On the outside of
the frame thus formed, was laid a covering of Mackintosh's
water-proof canvas, the outer part being coated with tar.
Over this was placed a plank of fir, only three-sixteenths of
an inch thick ; then a sheet of stout felt ; and, over all, an
oak plank of the same thickness as the fir ; the whole of
these being firmly and closely secured to the timbers by
iron screws applied from without. This method of planking
the boats was proposed and executed by ]Mr. Lang, IMaster-
Shipwright of Woolwich dock-yard ; and the following
Narrative will show how admirably the elasticity of this
mode of construction was adapted to withstand the constant
twisting and concussion to which the boats were subject *.
On each side of the keol, and projecting considerably below
it, was attached a strong " runner," shod with smooth steel,
in the manner of a sledge, upon which the boat entirely
rested while upon the ice ; and to afford some additional
chance of making progress on hard and level fields, we also
applied to each boat two wheels, of five feet diameter, and a
small one abaft, having a swivel for steering by, like that of
a Bath chair; but these, ov.ing to the irregularities of the
ice, did not prove of any service, and were subsequently
* The first travelling-boat, which was built by way of experiment, was
planked differently from these two ; the planks, which were of half-inch oak,
being ingeniously "tongued" together with copper, according to a method
contrived by ]\Ir. Teake, in order to save the necessity of caulking, in case of
the wood shrinking. This was the boat subsequently landed on Red Beach.
INTRODUCTION.
JCIU
I
relinquished. A " span" of hide-rope was attached to the
fore part of the runners, and to this were affixed two strong
ropes of horse-hair, for dragging the boat ; each individual
being furnished with a broad leathern shoulder-belt, which
could readily be fastened to or detached from the drag-ropes.
The interior arrangement consisted only of two thwarts ; a
locker at each end for the nnntical and other instruments,
and for the smaller stores ; and a very slight frame-work
along the sides, for containing the bags of biscuit, and our
spare clothes. A bamboo mast nineteen feet long, a tanned
duck sail, answering also the purpose of an awning, a spreat,
one boat-hook, fourteen paddles, and a steer-oar, completed
each boat's equipment.
Two officers and twelve men (ten of the latter beino-
seamen, and two marines) were selected for each boat's
crew. It was proposed to take with us resources for ninety
days ; to set out from Spitzbergen, if possible, about the
beginning of June ; and to occupy the months of June, July,
and August, in attempting to reach the pole, and returnino-
to the ship ; making an average journey of thirteen miles
and a half per day. Our provisions consisted of biscuit,
made by Mr. Le Mann, of the best wheaten flour ; beef
pemmican*; sweetened cocoa-powder, manuflictured by
* For this article of our equipment, which contains a large proportion
of nutriment in a small weight and compass, and is therefore invahialile
on such occasions, we arc much indebted to the kindness of jMr. J. P. Holmes,
f
XIV
INTRODUCTION.
s . ^
1;?'
iSi
» 1.
■i''f
W
m
J I!
n
m
II
tfci
'If
i'Ej
Messrs. Fortnum and IMason ; and a small proportion of
rum, the latter concentrated to fifty-five per cent, above
proof, in order to save weight and stowage. The proper
instruments were provided, both by the Admiralty and the
Board of Longitude, for making such observations as might
be interesting in the higher latitudes, and as the nature of
the enterprise would permit. Six pocket chronometers, the
property of the public, were furnished for this service ; and
Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, with their usual liberality,
entrusted to our care several other excellent watches, on
trial, at their own expense *.
I have again to express my obligations to the Navy and
Victualling Boards for their readiness in attending to my
wishes, in the course of this equipment; as well as to
Commissioner Hill, and to the Officers of Deptford and
Woolwich Dock -yards, for the very obliging manner in
which they executed the Instructions of their respective
Boards in providing for our various wants.
Annexed is a list of the different articles composing the
equipment of the boats, together with the actual weight of
each.
Surgeon, of Old Fish Street, who had resided several years in the Hudson's Bay
Establishments, and undertook to superintend the manufacture of it. The
process, which requires great attention, consists in drying large thin slices of
the lean of the meat over the smoke of wood-fires, then pounding it, and lastly
mixing it with about an equal weight of its own fat. In this state it is quite
ready for use, without further cooking.
* See Appendix, No. II.
I
'<*
INTRODUCTION.
Boat • • • . .
Bamboo mast, one spreat, one boat-hook, one steer-oar
Fourteen paddles . . , ,
Sail (or awnings) ...
Spare rope and line . , ,
Small sounding-line (750 fathoms in all) ,
Carpenters' tools, screws, nails, &c. . .
Copper and felt for repairs . . ,
Four fowling-pieces, with two bayonets
Small articles for guns . ,
Ammunition • • . .
Instruments • • . .
Books .....
' Fur Suits for sleeping in (fourteen in each boat)
Thicknailed boots (ditto ditto)
Esquimaux do., with spare soles, (ditto ditto)
XV
Fntonirizc. Kmlravour.
o
Flannel shirts
W ( Guernsey frocks
Thick drawers
Mittens
Comforters
^ Scotch caps
at
(seven in each boat)
(ditto ditto)
(ditto ditto)
(twenty-eight in each boat)
(fourteen in each boat)
(ditto ditto)
A bag of small articles for the Officers, including soap, &c. &c.
Ditto ditto for the men ditto
Biscuit . ,
Pemmican ,
Rum . .
Cocoa-powder, sweetened
Salt
Spirits of wine
Cooking apparatus .
Tobacco
Medicine chest .
Pannikins, knife, fork, and spoon, (fourteen in each boat)
Weighing-dials and measures
Various small articles for repairs, &c., not mentioned above
Packages for i)rovisions, clothes, &c. .
Weight, per man
Exclusive of four sledges, weighing 26 lbs. each
]U».
1539
Ills.
1542
46^
41
464
41
22
22
6
6
8
10
10
10
19
19
15
15
—
4
17|
29
29
7
162
162
47
47
33
33
8^
14
8J
14
5
5
1
4
1
4
4
4
12
628
564
180
12
628
564
180
63
14
72
63
14
72
—
20
20
19
20
5
2
14
5
2
110
116
14)3753^
. 268 lbs.
3753^
-»T"
XVI
INTRODUCTION.
tfi';
> f
In drawing up my Journal for publication, I have, as be-
fore, thrown into an Ai)pendix the details of such meteorolo-
gical, magnetic, and other observations, as our situation and
circumstances enabled us to make ; and these, I trust, will not
prove altogether unworthy the attention of men of science,
who are engaged in similar pursuits. For the description
of the specimens of Natural History, brought home by this
Expedition, I am once more indebted to the kind offices of
those gentlemen to whom I owe a similar obligation on
former occasions ; and whose labours, so highly appreciated
by the scientific world, in the various branches of natural
knowledge, have imparted to our imperfect collections a
degree of value, which, without their assistance, they would
never have been found to possess.
I have not thought it necessary, in the course of this volume,
to enter into any examination of the question respecting the
approaches to the North Pole which had already been effected,
previously to our late attempt. This question has, of late
years, been so fully discussed and brought into public notice,
in consequence of the strong and general interest excited by
the progress of Arctic Discovery, that I could not hope, by
any remarks of mine, to throw fresh light upon the subject.
I shall, therefore, only add that, after carefully weighing the
various authorities, from which every individual interested
in this matter is at liberty to form his own conclusions,
my own impartial conviction, at the time of our setting out
i
INTRODUCTION.
xvii
on this entcrprize, coincided (with a single exception) with
the opinion expressed by tlie Commissioners of Longitude,
in their Memorial to the King, that " the progress of dis-
covery had not arrived northwards, according to any well
authenticated accounts, so far as eighty-one degrees of North
Latitude *." The exception to which I allude, is in favour of
Mr. Scoresby, who states his having, in the year 1806, reached
the latitude of 8 T 12' 42", by actual observation, and 81° 30',
by dead reckoning -f*. I therefore consider the latter parallel
as, in all probability, the highest which had ever been at-
tained, prior to the attempt recorded in the following pages.
* See His Majesty's Order in Council of the 23d of February, 1821. Also
p. 43 of this Narrative .
f x\ccount of the Arctic Regions, vol. i. p. 312.
. (
I Ml
'!•
I
I
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
By the Commmioncrs for executing the Office of
Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, S'^.
Whereas the President and Council of the Royal Society
have expressed an opinion that an Expedition, for tlio
purpose of attempting to reach the North Pole, " cannot
fail to aflford many valuable results and settle important
matters of philosophical inquiry ;" and whereas, conform-
ably therewith, We have thought fit, from your desire to
be employed on this service, and your zeal and expe-
rience in prosecuting discoveries in the Arctic Regions, to
entrust to your charge the conduct of the said Expedition,
and to appoint you to the command of His Majesty's
Sloop Hecla ; You are hereby required and directed, so
soon as the said Vessel shall in all respects be ready for
sea, to make the best of your way to the northern part of
Spitzbergen ; calling, however, at Hammerfest in Lapland,
on your way, if you should think it expedient to take with
you from thence a certain number of tame rein-deer to
draw the boats over the ice.
On your arrival at the northern shores of Spitzbergen,
you will fix upon some safe harbour or cove, in which the
XX
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
:(..;,
I'M, ■
';1
1
i1
Heela may be placed ; and liavin^ properly secured her,
you are then to proceed with the Uoats, Avhose e(|uipiueuts
have, under your own directions, been furnished expressly
for the service, directly to the Northward, and use your
best endeavours to reach the North Pole ; and having
made such observations as arc specified in the Instructions
for your former Voyages in the Northern Regions, and
such as will be pointed out to you by the Council of the
Royal So(;iety, added to those M'hich your own experience
will suggest, you will be careful to return to Spitzbergen
before the winter sets in, and at such a period of the
autumn as will ensure the Vessel you command not being
frozen up, and thus obliged to winter there.
If, in proceeding towards the Pole, any dilHcultics should
arise from the intervention of high and extensive land, or
from the rugged surface of continuous ice, or other dilH-
culty, the surmounting of which would evidently require
a greater length of time than it would be prudent to con-
sume, in order to secure your safe return, you are, in such
ease, to be careful not to risk your own life, and the lives of
those who accompany you ; even though, by perseverance,
you should be satisfied that such dilficulty might be over-
come, but at the expense of so much time as might put to
hazard the certainty of returning to the Ship. You will,
therefore, in such case, content yourself with the best
examination of such land, should any be found, as time
and other circumstances will allow.
Previous to your departure from the Hecla, you are to
direct Lieutenant Foster to proceed, in a boat fitted for
the purpose, as soon as the season shall be sufficiently
advanced, to survey the Northern and Eastern Coast of
^
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
XXI
Spitz))orfifcn . nntl to continue clown the latter ns fur ns may
hv prat'ticaljlo ; with instructions to him to make observa-
tions oii the dip, variation, and intensity of the Magnetic
Xcedle ; the temperature ; the barometric pressure of the
atm().s()hcre ; and such other meteoroloj^ical phenomena,
as he may be enabled to notice ; the extent of open water ;
the (quantity, the position and nature of the ice ; the depth,
temperature, and specific gravity of the sea ; and you will
also direct him to pay attention to the number of WiuUes
he may meet with, in order that an opinion may be formed
as to the expediency and practicability of extending the
Whale Fishery on that Coast ; and you will give him such
directions, as to the time he is to remain on this Survey, as
•will ensure his return to the Vessel, so as not to endanger
her being shut up in the Ice for the Winter.
While these two operations are carrying on by yourself
and Lieutenant Foster, you are to instruct the OlHeer left
in the Command of the Hecla, to employ the Ollicers and
Men remaining on board in embracing every opportunity
of nudving all such observations as may best contribute to
the benefit of general Science, and collect and preserve all
such specimens of Subjects of Natural History, whether
Animals, Plants, or Minerals, as may be deemed new or
curious.
When you have chosen the situation in which the Ship
is to remain, and have become acquainted with the local
circumstances of the Coast, you will be enabled to judge
of the Instructions which it may be necessary to give tlie
Officer who will remain in the Command of the Ship for
ensuring your finding her on your return, and for facilitating
her putting to sea as soon as the detached parties shall
,H.
XX&
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
have rejoined : after which you are to make the best of
your way to England ; and on your arrival, you are imme-
diately to repair to this Office, in order to lay before us a
full account of your proceedings, taking care, before you
leave the Ship, to demand from the several Officers, Petty
Ofiicers, and all other Persons on board, the Logs and
Journals they may have kept, together with any Drawings
or Charts they may have made ; which are all to be sealed
up, and to be thereafter disposed of as We may think
proper.
i
:l'f
J'
i
i-J
H
Given under our Hands, the 24tli March, 1827.
(Signed) Melville,
Wm. Johnstone Hope,
g. cockburn,
G. Clerk,
W. R. K. Douglas.
To
Captain William Edward Parry,
Commander of His Majcsti/s Sloop
Hccla.
J.
i
By Command of their Lordships,
(Signed) J. W. Croker.
EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS,
MADE USE OF IN THE FOLLOWING NARRATIVE.
Bay-Ice — Ice newly formed on tlie surface of the sea. The expression is,
liowever, applied also to ice a ftwt or two in thickness.
Beset — The situation of a ship when closely surrounded by ice.
Blink-~A brightness in the sky usually seen over large bodies of ice, and over
land covered with snow.
Calf — A mass of ice lying under a floe, which, when disengaged, rises with
violence to the surface of the water. See Tongue.
Field — A sheet of ice generally of great thickness, and of an extent too great
to be seen over from a ship's mast-head.
Floe — The same as a field, except that its extent is smaller, and can be dis-
tinguished from a ship's mast-head.
Floe-piece — An expression generally applied to small jiicces of floes, not more
than a furlong square.
Hole of Water (or Tool) — A small space of " clear water," when the rest of
the sea is covered with ice.
Hummock — A mass of ice rising to a considerable height above the general
level of a floe, and forming a part of it. Hunnuocks are originally
raised by the pressure of floes against each other.
LA^'D-IcE — Ice attached to land, either in floes or in heavy grounded masses.
Lane of Water — A narrow channel among the masses of ice, through which a
boat or ship may pass.
Nipped — The situation of a shiji or boat when forcibly pressed by ice.
Pack— A large body of ice, consisting of separate masses lying close together,
and the extent of which cannot be seen.
Sailino-Ice— A body of ice, of which the niasses arc sufliciently separated to
allow a ship to sail among them.
Stbeajis — A long and narrow collection of broken masses of ice.
Tongue — A mass of ice jirojecting under water from an ice-berg or floe, and
generally distinguishable at a great deptli. It difl'ers from a " calf "
in being fixed to, or a part of, the larger body.
Watek-sky — A dark appearance of the sky, indicating open water in that
direction.
Young Ice — Nearly the same as Bay-ice, except that it is only apphed to ice
very recently formed.
l.-t.
m
:
■!.'
15'
,fi
if
NARRATIVE,
(Stc.
The Hecla being ready to proceed down the River, she was
taken in tow, at ten, a.m., on the 25th of March, by the
Lightning, steam-vessel; and having received and returned
the cheers of the Greenwich pensioners, the children of the
Naval Asylum, and of various ships in the river, she made
fast to the moorings at Northfleet at three, p.m. The
following day was occupied in swinging the ship round on
the various points of the compass, in order to obtain the
amount of the deviation of the magnetic needle, produced
by the attraction of the ship's iron, and to fix Mr. Barlow's
plate for correcting it *. On the 27th the Hecla was visited
by the Eight Hon. Viscount Melville, First Lord Commis
sioner of the Admiralty, who was pleased to express his
* The merits of this simple but valuable invention bein.. now too well kno
to require any detailed account of the experiments, it is ^^lyTe™ for 2
to remark m this place, that the compass having the plate .tZlZnU
under all circumstances, the correct magnetic beting. ^ '^ '" " ^'^"'
B
1827.
March.
Sunday,
25th.
Monday,
2GIh.
Tiiesdaj-,
2/-th.
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
I::
'i::i., '
April,
Monday, 2nd
1827. approbation of our equipment; and the two succeeding
28thS^ days were employed in receiving the powder and other
gunner's stores, and in making various magnetical experi-
ments Avith the instruments intended for the voyage. These
being completed, we were taken in tow by the Comet,
Friday, 30th. stcam-vessel, at eight, a.m., on the 30th, and anchored at
the Little Nore, at one, p.m. Here we were indebted
to the well-known kindness of Vice-Admiral Sir Robert
INIoorsom for the supply of our few remaining wants ; and
on the 2nd of April that officer did us the honour of a
personal visit on board the Hecla. On the 3rd the ship's
company received three months' wages in advance, together
Wednesday, with their river-pay, and on the following morning, at half
past four, we weighed and made sail from the Nore. By
the kindness of Sir Thomas Byam IMartin, the Comptroller
of Plis INIajesty's navy, which we had experienced throughout
this, as well as our former equipments, the Comet steam-
boat was ordered to tow us clear of the sands. By her
assistance we reached Orfordness before dark ; and at six,
P.M., she parted company from us, giving us three hearty
cheers, and receiving our pilot, together with our despatches
and letters. Being now fairly at sea, and flivoured by a
southerly breeze, we shaped our course, under all sail, to
the northward.
We had at this time remarkably fine weather for the season
of the year, and such a continuance of southerly winds, that
4th.
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
8
we arrived ofF the island of Soroe, within which Ilammerfest
lies, on the 1 7th, without having had occasion to make a tack
till we entered the Fiord which forms the northern entrance.
In the course of our passage hitherto, we noticed, when to
the northward of about the 58th parallel, a very decided
north-easterly current, which has usually been understood to
exist here, and is often the means of setting ships over to-
wards the coast of Norway. Its direction appeared to vary
between E.N.E. and N.N.E., and its amount from five to
thirteen miles per day. Another circumstance struck us as
well worthy of remark, though it has doubtless been often
remarked before, which is, that, in proceeding from the Nore,
a little to the eastward of the meridian of Greenwich, the
whole way up to the latitude of 70°, the variation of the
magnetic needle continues nearly the same, namely, from
about 24° to 29° westerly ; and, indeed, it undergoes very
little alteration as far as 80°, where it is still 25°. But in the
parallel of 70°, and, as we afterwards found in much higher
ones, immediately or sailing to the eastward, the variation
begins rapidly, though very regularly, to decrease, till at Ham-
merfest, in the longitude of 23|° east, we find it only between
10° and 1 1°. These facts appear among the simplest, and
yet the strongest, in favour of the theory of two magnetic
poles in the northern hemisphere of the earth.
I may further remark that this change in the variation
of the needle, coincident with a change of meridian only,
B 2
i82r.
April.
Tuesday,
17th.
.ff-
'A .;;
M
\4
1627.
April.
Wednesday,
18th.
4 NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
would afford, to those who are not furnished with better
means, a very tolerable method of finding a ship's longitude,
in any part of the North Atlantic, to the northward of the
parallel of about 55°. This would be especially the case in
ships having Mr. Barlow's plate attached to the compass ;
if not, observations with the ship's head north or south, and
made in fine weather, will give very nearly the true variation ;
provided always that one fixed place has been selected for the
azimuth compass, right amid-ships, and sufficiently high to
be removed from the influence of immediate local attraction.
The wind becoming light from the southward, and very
variable, we were occupied the whole of the 18th in beating
up towards Hammerfest. In the evening a Lapland boat
came on board, and one of the men undertook to pilot the
ship to the anchorage, which, after beating all night against
Thursday, an ebb tide, we reached at three, A.M., on the 19th. Soon
I'Jth.
after we had anchored, ]\Ir. Crowe came on board, accom-
panied by Mr. Akermand, the Russian Consul, and also the
Collector of Customs, all of whom offered their services in
any way we might require. Finding that our rein-deer had
not arrived, I immediately despatched Lieutenant Crozier,
in one of our own boats, to Alten, from whence they were
expected ; a distance of about sixty English miles. At the
same time we landed our observatories and instruments at
Fugleness, near the establishment of Messrs. Crowe and
Woodfall, the British merchants residing here ; and Lieute-
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
i
^londay,
23rd.
nant Foster and myself immediately commenced our magne-
tic and other observations, which were continued during the
whole of our stay here. We completed our supply of water,
and obtained a small quantity of venison, with abundance of
good fish, (principally torsk and cod,) and some milk. We
also purchased a set of snow-shoes for our travelling party,
together with the Lapland shoes of leather, (called Kamooga*,)
which are the most convenient and comfortable for wearing
with them ; and we practised our people in the manner of
walking in them in deep snow, which aflPorded them fine
exercise and amusement.
On the 23d, being the day appointed to be kept as the
anniversary of His Majesty's birth-day, we dressed the ship in
colours, and fired a royal salute. In the afternoon. Lieu-
tenant Crozier returned in the boat from Alton, and was
followed the next day by Mr. Woodfall, who brought with Tuesday,
him eight rein-deer for our use, together with a supply of
moss for their provender {Cenomyce Rangiferina). As,
however, the latter required a great deal of picking, so as
tb render it fit to carry with us over the ice, and as it was
also necessary that we should be instructed in the manner
of managing the deer, I determined on remaining a day
or two longer for these purposes. Nothing can be more
beautiful than the training of the Lapland rein-deer. With
* It is remarkable that the Esquimaux word for boot is very like this —
Kameega.
I)
II
6
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
M'
m:.S'
1827.
April.
a simple collar of skin round his neck, a single trace of the
same material attached to the " pulk," or sledge, and pass-
ing between his legs, and one rein fastened like a halter
about his neck, this intelligent and docile animal is perfectly
under command of an experienced driver, and performs
astonishing journeys over the softest snow. When the rein
is thrown over on the ofF-side of the animal, he immediately
sets ojff at full trot, and stops short the instant it is thrown
back to the near side. Shaking the rein over his back is the
only whip that is required. In a short time after setting
off, they appear to be gasping for breath, as if quite ex-
hausted ; but, if not driven too fast at first, they soon recover
this, and then go on without difficulty. The quantity of
clean moss considered requisite for each deer per day is four
pounds, but they will go five or six days without provender,
and not suffer materially. As long as they can pick up snow
as they go along, which they like to eat quite clean, they
require no water ; and ice is to them a comfortable bed.
It may well be imagined, with such qualifications, how
valuable these animals seemed likely to prove to us ; and
the more we became accustomed, and I may say attached to
them, the more painful became the idea of the necessity
which was likely to exist, of ultimately having recourse to
them, as provision for ourselves.
Our preparations were completed on the 27th, but the
wind continuing fresh from the north-western quarter in the
to- -l>
,1
M' 11*
"\'
I R
I
m
Plr '\'
PORTofHAMM£]RFSST.
///;/ TTHf FosTh'lt. i{. ,y.
70^40 sy\ hi, tiu-
|y>//> ot'tfh'Ai,uf:\\Wti/f /; ya .n
J'}ft//tVit',i\f «< iiiriitHon
A St\ile of /iiiir J^ittttJtili Milrs
/ ,, . . \f'tu>tittnlUmt
K htttilfton jn J4J'4}f -^
\ / tiruf
XJ/nffi mit,t' ) , 1/ .'/• ,
Xoti'.The fhtt.vtA' ot'thf ttii/'tio^it /s/a/it/x ttnf e.vitntm^i
ritNiihnitUthrai'fMr^'<tsi)ecriSt^iniJt>htiMiin\xyAJhmtiU^fShwt/AtttiA>n.
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I, () K X
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piii'F
tT/ii<*'M"iiiif<iin
' /I'ft .
i.V
ilJiW
,n,,
tttiilJUn-it
TO REACH THE NORTH POLK. ^
offing, wc had no prospect of making any jwogrcss till the
morning of the 29th, when we weighed at six, a.m. I can-
not omit this opportunity of expressing my acknowledg-
ments to all the gentlemen at Ilamnierfest, Avhom I have
before mentioned, for the ready assistance they afforded us
on all occasions ; and also to j\[r. Capellan, Sheriff of the
District of ^Vest Finmark, who accompanied IMr. Woodfall
from I-osecop, where he resides, and where he behaved with
extreme attention to Lieutenant Crozier and his boat's
crew.
After the detailed and interesting account already given of
Hammerfest, and of the inhabitants of this part of Lajjland,
by Captain de Capell Brooke*, it r.ould be useless, as well
as presumptuous in me, to attempt any thing further in this
way. I shall, therefore, only add a few hydrographical
remarks, which may be useful to ships bound to this port,
and such as I should myself have been very glad to possess,
when entering it on this occasion. Some local information
of this nature is the more necessary, since the fishermen will
not come out to any distance to pilot a ship to the anchorage.
The little liarbovu* of Hammerfest is by no means easy for
a stranger to find, in the present imperfect state of our
charts of the coast of Lapland, on account of the number of
deep inlets, or " fiords," by which the shores are indented,
and the sameness in the appearance of most of the land in its
* ^ Winter in Lapland and Sweden, &c.
1827.
Ajiiil.
Sunday,
'J'Jth.
I .'
m
A
}?■'
,u^\n:ia>' •':'(■■
f w»
4
8
NAUUATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
■'■•It
' "-i
' I
I
! A
t ll
If
! ;H'l:J
.14 "i
;fN:.
1827,
April
neighbourhood. This latter also differs materially at dif-
ferent seasons, according to the quantity of snow which is
lying upon it. The southern entrance, by Hasvig, which is
situated towards the south-western extremity of Soroe, is
not to be so much recommended as that to the northward,
on account of the greater distance which a ship has to go
between the high lands, where the wind var'es in every
turning, and sometimes blows in heavy squalls down the
inlets, making it a tedious business to get in or out, even
with a tolerably favourable breeze. Perhaps the best direc-
tion for approaching the northern entrance, is to get into
the latitude of 70° 55', which will lead a ship close to the
north-eastern extreme of Soroe, at a short distance off
which lies a remarkable craggy rock or islet, which was, at
this season, almost entirely clear of snow. After passing
to the eastward of it, it becomes somewhat of this shape,
; I
and there will then be in sight another small but high rocky
island to the S.E., having a smoothly rounded appearance at
TO UEACII THE NORTH roi.K.
the top in almost every point of view, luul which hears from
the outer point of Miliv Island, near Ilam.nerfe.st, N. 8' K.
(true). To the southward of this will also he soon another
small and loio rocky island, which, as well as the round
topped island, was now free from snow. A ship must leave
these hoth to the eastward, keeping het ween tliem and Soroe,
when a S.S.I!. course hy compass will load towards Milk
Island, and the two small hut hi;2;h islands called the (Jreat
and Jjttle liielm will then come in sight, which l)ein«i; kept
in one, afford a good leadinu; mark for the port of llammer-
fest, as shown in the accompanying survey made hy I-ieu-
tenant Foster, in the (J riper, in lsj:3. The hower anchor
may he dropped in eighteen to twenty fathoms, on a nuuldy
hottoni, rather on the Tuglencss side, and a stream laid out
to the S.S.E. ; it is also rcconnnended to make a hawser fast
to a ring on the shore upon that side. There is said to be
no danger from sunken rocks in any part of this navigation ;
a remark which is considered equally ai)plicahle to the ^\holc
of the coast of Lapland, to the northward of ()S\
The latitude of Fugleness, hy our observations, is
70' 40' 8" N. ; the longitude by chronometers 23° 45' 40" E. ;
the dip of the magnetic needle 77° 12' N. ; and the variation
10' 11' 12' westerly. It was high water on the day of new
moon at 240, p.m., the rise of tide being seven feet one
inch. There is a tide and half tide, the stream running
about three hours longer than the time of high or low water
AlMll.
■i-^ (
si
10
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
■I ' \^
■, , I
V »
.., '"I'
1827.
April.
by the shore ; and, considering the depth of water, we found
it stronger than might have been expected.
Lieutenant Crozier's observations make the latitude of the
town of Bosecop G9° 57' 37" : and the variation of the needle
there was 9° 54' 30" westerly. It was high water at 9*30, p.m.,
on the 21st of April, the rise of tide being three feet and a
half.
In sailing out, along the island of Soroe, near the north-
eastern point of it, where the dip of the gneiss (of which all
these islands appear composed) is very distinctly exhibited,
we observed it to incline to the S.^V^, at a measured ano-le
of 27°- We found the wind at north on the outside, which,
continuing for several days, led us to the W.N.W., and
occasioned us to notice a remarkable belt of comparatively
Avarm water, as shown in the following table.
'i "
DAYS.
April 2Uth ami 30th
30th and May 1st
^Ti-.y 1st to 3cl . . .
3cl and 4t]i . . .
Detween tlie parallels of
Uctwcen llie meridians of
■0
05
and
71
■J
N
71
9
—
71
40
n
40
—
72
38
72
38
—
73
29
1
2:3 and 2°2 10 E
22 10 — 18 40
18 40 — 14 10
14 10 — 8 20
Tcnippraturc of
Kca water.
Air.
30 to 37
38 — 39
39 —40
38 — 32
evaduallv
2=1 to 31
20 — :)2
231 — 20
24 — 28
During the whole of the time we remained in water of
this higher temperature, the wind, though in general light,
and the weather fine, was constantly coming in puft's of
greater or less force, and then relapsing again almost into a
Hi! 4!
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE,
11
i
I
calm ; a circumstance so unusual in an open sea, that it ap-
peared to us, at the time, to have some connexion with the
temperature of the water compared with that of the air, as
in the Gulf-stream. The horizon seemed hroken into little
detached lumps, and the dip of the sea, as measured by Dr.
"WoUaston's dip-sector, indicated a depression very consider-
ably greater than that given in the Tables. In one instance
the excess amounted to 2' 3", the temperature of the air
being 23i°, and that of the water 40°.
On the 5 til of JMay, being in latitude 73° 30', and longi-
tude 7" 28' E., we met with the first straggling mass of
ice, after which, in sailing about 110 miles in a N.N.AV.
direction, there was always a number of loose masses in sight;
but it did not occur in continuous " streams," till the morn-
ing of the 7th, in latitude 74° 55', a few miles to the east-
ward of the meridian of Greenwich. Early on the morning
of the 9th, while running, with all the studding-sails set,
through " sailing ice," we were taken aback with a sudden
and violent squall of wind from the northward. Soon after,
it fell calm, and a light air from the eastward having suc-
ceeded for a short time, we were a second time taken aback
with a fresh gale from the northward. At half past nine we
saw two whale ships, which joined us in the course of the
day. They proved to be the Alpheus, and the Active, of
Peterhead. IJIy the former I wrote to the Secretary of the
Admiralty, acquainting him with the Hecla's arrival in the
C 2
13>7.
May.
Siiturcliiy,
:)tll.
i\'^;)n(lay,
7th.
Wodnesilay,
!)tli.
' ml'''
%\
"H;!
"•I ,.
12
NARRATIVE OP AN ATTEMPT
hi ti
':A
1827.
May.
Tluirsday,
Itith.
..id ay.
latitude of 77°. On the following day several other whalers
were in sight, and Mr. Bennett, the master of the Vener-
able, of Hull, whom we had before met in Baffin's Bay, in
1818, came on board. From him I learned that several of
the ships had been in the ice since the middle of April,
some of them having been so far to the westward as the
island of Jan Mayen, and that they were now endeavouring
to push to the northward. They considered the ice to offer
more obstacles to the attainment of this object than it had
done for many years past *. None of the ships had yet
taken a single w hale, w hich, indeed, they never expect to do
to the southward of about 78°.
In the afternoon, after waiting for some time for the ice
to open, we again entered it, in company with all the
whalers, and by the following morning had succeeded in
pushing about fifty miles farther to the northward, though
not without some heavy blows in " boring" through the
ice. The weather had been almost constantly thick with
snow since our leaving Hammerfest ; but, on its clearing
up this morning, we saw the land about Black Point, the
southern extreme of Prince Charles's Island or Foreland,
i
i
^
* I find it to be the universal opinion among the most experienced of our
Whalers, that there is much less ice met with, of late years, in getting to the
northward, in these latitudes, than formerly was the case. ]Mr. Scoresby, to
whose very valuable local information, contained in his " Account of the
Arctic Regions," I have been greatly indebted on this occasion, mentions the
circumstance as a generally -received fact.
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
]3
bearing N.E.b.E., distance about nine leagues. AVe were
1827.
Miiv.
S;i1nrday,
here stopped by close ice, the weather becoming again very
thick with snow, and a fresh gale blowing from the E.S.E.
The wlialers, twelve in number, and two of these Dutch,
hove to an hour or two before us, being now about their
fishing-latitude.
On the 12th we had strong gales to the southward, with
thick snowy weather ; and the thermometer, which had
generally been from 16° to 20° since our entering the ice,
had now risen to 31^ We saw a black whale, and one of
the ships sent her boats in pursuit of it ; this was only the
third we had seen. The dovekies, (Colymbus Grylle,^ and
eider-ducks, were very numerous. In the afternoon there
was a slight swell perceptible, which led us to believe we
were not far from open water inshore ; and on the weather
clearing up on the following morning, this conjecture proved
correct, nearly the whole space between us and Prince
Charles's Eoreland, not less than six or seven leagues in
breadth, being quite clear, except of " young ice ;" and this,
thougli covering the greater part of the sea, was now so soft
and broken up, as scarcely to impede a ship's progress.
Being still favoured by a southerly wind, we proceeded with-
out impediment, the same, or even a greater, breadth of open
water continuing along the land. At five, a.ji., on the
14th, we passed jMagdalena Bay, and by ten o'clock had :\ron(i;iy,
arrived off Hakluyt's Headland, round which we hauled
Sur.cl'.iy,
Utii.
9'
■%\
Wl
f',:l
t.\ \
M
'.^
14
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
Mav.
to tlio south-eastward, to look for anchorage in Smereii-
it "
burg Plarbour. In this, however, we were disai)])ointed,
Monday Htli, " ^ 1 1 »
cuutiiuaa. the whole place being occupied by one unbroken floe of ice,
still firmly attached to the land on each side. Here we
made fast, though not without considerable difficulty, the
wind, which was now freshening from the southward, blow-
ing in such violent and irregular gusts off the high land,
that the ship was scarcely manageable. Walruses, dovekies,
and eider-ducks were very numerous here, especially the
former; and four rein-deer came down upon the ice near
the ship.
We now prepared a quantity of provisions and other
stores to land at Hakluyt's Headland, as a supply for my
party on our return from the northward ; so that, in case of
the ship being obliged to go more to the southward, or of
our not being able at once to reach her, we should here
be furnished with a few days' resources of every kind. Our
intentions were, however, frustrated for the present ; for we
had scarcely secured our hawsers, when a hard gale came
on from the southward, threatening every moment to snap
them in two, and drive us from our anchorage. AVe held
on for several hours, till, at 9 p.m., some swell having set in
upon the margin of the ice, it began to break off and drift
away. Every possible exertion was instantly made to shift
our stream-cable farther in upon the floe, but it broke
away so quickly as to baffle every endeavour, and at 10 the
if
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
13
ship went adrift, the wind blowing still harder than before.
Having hauled in the hawsers, and got the boats on board,
we set the close-reefed topsails, to endeavour to hang to
windward; but the wind blew in such tremendous gusts
off' the high land as almost to lay the ship on her beam-
ends ; so that we were obliged to reduce our canvass to the
main-topsail and storm-sails, and let her drive to leeward •-.
After wearing several times between the island called A'^ogcl
Sang and a narrow stream of ice tliat lay to the westward and
kept olf a considerable sea which was rolling on the outside
of it, we had driven as far as the northern extreme of the
island ; and at 1, a.m., the main body of packed ice was
seen, only a mile or two under our lee. The situation of
the ship now appeared a very precarious one, the wind still
blowing with unabated violence, and with every appearance
of a continuance of stormy weather. Under these circum-
stances, it was the general opinion of the officers, as well as
my own, that it was advisable to take advantage of the com-
paratively smooth water within the stream of ice before-
mentioned, and to run the ship into the pack, rather than
incur the risk of having to do the same thing in a heavy sea.
This plan succeeded remarkably well ; a tolerably smooth and
open part of the margin being selected, the ship was forced
lS-27.
:\Iay.
* It was probably some such gale as this which has given to Iluk-
liiyl's Headland, in an old Dutch chart, the appellation of " Duyvel's
Hock."
16
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
':; ■, •ft ;
• it;;
. . •! \''
ii ■ J 1,
f . ■ i' (
''i I'm
,1 ■ 'i;
if :)!'
ill
i-:!
•■i:
■■''i;i"
is2r.
l\IilV.
Tiicsilnv,
i:.th."
Kill.
into it at three, a.m. ; when, after cncounterhig a few severe
blows from the heavy washed pieces which always occur
near the sea-edge, she was gradually carried onwards under
all sail, and at four, \.m., we had got into a perfectly smooth
and secure situation, half a mile within the margin of the
" pack*-."
The wind subsided in the course of the day, and clear
and cloudless weather succeeded. ^Ve were glad to take
advantage of our quiet situation to give the officers and men
the rest which they much needed. The wind continuing
from the southward, the ice soon drifted as far north as it
could go, and mo then drove rapidly with it to the eastward,
past Cloven Cliff, and along the northern coast of Spitz-
bcrgcn. At noon our observed latitude was 80° 04' 13",
and longitude by chronometers 12° 35' E., the depth of water
being twenty-five fathoms, on a hard bottom. The tempe-
rature of the air rose to 4 1° in the shade, and to 48° in
the sun, which was the more remarkable from the low tempe-
rature which followed this for several days afterwards. On
tlie 16th the wind was light from the northward, and the
thermometer falling to 17° in the course of the day, and to
14° at midnight, the pack was cemented togetlier by the
■I.
* It is remarkable tliat the position of tlio Ilecla, and the circiinistanccs under
vliidi she was placed on this occasion, were almost the same as those in which
His jMajcsty's Ship the Dorothea received very serious damage in the expedi-
tion of 1818; and hut for the smooth place which we fortunately found, we
should probably have incurred similar injury.
.if.
r 'I
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
17
f
frost. The ship still drove with the ice to the eastward, and
inshore withal, and we were now off the remarkable part of
the land called lied Beach, which Mas at this season as white
as an entire covering of snow could make it. A young bear
was killed close to the ship, and some ivory gulls and eider-
ducks were flying about, the latter in considerable flocks.
It was impossible not to consider ourselves highly fortu-
nate in having thus early, and with no great difficulty, suc-
ceeded in reaching the highest latitude to which it was our
object to take the ship. But, from what we had already
seen at Smerenburg, it was also impossible not to feel
much anxiety as to the prospect of getting her into any
secure harbour, before the proper time of my departure to
the northward should arrive. However, we could only wait
patiently for the result of a few more days, and, in the mean
time, every body was busily employed in completing the
arrangements for our departure, so that, if an opportunity
did offer of securing the ship, we might have nothing else
to attend to. Our deer were in good order, having been
thriving well ever since they came on board; they make
excellent sailors, and do not seem to mind bad weather,
always lying down quite comfortably whenever there is
any sea.
On the 18th, being only six or seven miles from the Red
Beach, and the ice appearing close between us and the shore,
I sent Lieutenant Ross with a party to endeavour to land,
D
isj:,
May.
Friiliv,
IStli;
■ij
'm'i
I
.■'*!
-i^i;l
.-tl^A
18
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
■ I- ' ;
-r »
'I ..:
I;*.';it
i'i
it
.'
1827.
May.
Fricluy, IHth,
continued.
Satuidav,
l!)th. ■
being desirous to know what this remarkable looking place
was composed of. Lieutenant Eoss was not, however, enabled
to land, there being a considerable lane of water inshore, too
broad for the party to ferry over on pieces of ice. In order to
try what our chances were, at the present low temperature, of
procuring water upon the ice without expense of fuel, we
laid a black-painted canvass cloth, and also a piece of black
felt, upon the surface of the snow ; the temperature of the
atmosphere being from 18° to 23". These substances had,
in a couple of hours, sunk half an inch into the snow, but no
water could be collected. I was desirous also of ascertaining
whether any part of the real sea ice was so entirely fresh,
when melted, as to be drank without injury or inconveni-
ence. For this purpose we cut a block of ice from a large
hummock, about ten feet high above the sea, and having
broken, pounded, and melted it, without any previous
washing, we found it, both by the hydrometer and by the
chemical test (nitrate of silver) more free from salt than any
which we had in our tanks, and which was procured from
Hammerfest. I considered this satisfactory, because, in the
autumn, the pools of water met with upon the ice, generally
become very brackish, in consequence of the sea-water being
drawn up into them by capillary action as the ice becomes
more " rotten" and porous ; and we might, therefore, have
to depend chiefly on melted ice for our daily supply.
On the 19th, the wind freshened up strong from the
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
19
t^^
t 'I
W.N.W^ which is here rather upon the land, and the ice
settled together and inshore, occasioning the ship such vio-
lent pressure as few others could have withstood, and much
endangering the rudder, which we had not been able to
unship. In about half an hour, however, it remained quiet,
leaving the ship so closely pressed in every part, that the
lead for sounding could not any where be dropped until we
had dug a hole for the purpose. The thermometer fell to
12°, with thick snowy weather. No change took place till
the 21st, when, on the weather clearing u\), we found that
the open water we had left to the westward was now wholly
closed up, and that there was none whatever in sight. It
was now also so close inshore, that on the 22d, Lieutenant
Eoss, with a party of officers and men, succeeded in landing
without difficulty. They found a small floe of level ice
close to the beach, which appeared very lately formed.
AValking up to a little conspicuous eminence near the
eastern end of the beach, they found it to be composed of
clay-slate, tinged of a brownish red colour. The few
uncovered parts of the beach were strewed with smooth
schistose fragments of the same mineral, and in some
parts a quantity of thin slates of it lay closely disposed
together in a vertical position. On the little hillock were
two graves, bearing the dates of 1741 and 1762 on some
of the stones which marked them, and a considerable quan-
tity of fir drift wood lay upon the beach.
D 2
1S27.
May.
s
Monday,
•J 1st.
Tiu'silay,
•JJd.
w
•■'•(
so
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
'If
'■,
y'U*
d
|S1:.
,11 ^ii.;:
i
rl
1 ''^i^'''
18J7.
May,
AW'diK'siIiiv,
Thurstlay,
-'Jill.
In the evening of the 22d, a light air at length sprung up
from the eastward, and on the following morning hud, in a
slight degree, increased, opening a few holes of water here
and there, and giving us great hopes of our being released
from our present confinement. To help the ice a little in
opening, we set all the sails, which certainly produced some
effect in the course of the day ; but the wind was so very
light, that though it still continued on the 24th, nothing
like an opening was afforded for us to get out. Indeed, the
ship was still closely squeezed up by the ice all round her,
though she moved a little to the westward now and then
with it.
The air of wind again dying away, and some of the holes
again closing, I now clearly saw that there was, for the pre-
sent, no reasonable prospect of our getting towards any
harbour, and I could not but feel confident that, even if we
did get to the entrance of any, some time must be occupied
in securing the ship. It may be well imagined how anxious
I had now become to delay no longer in setting out upon
the main object of the expedition. I felt that a few days
at the commencement of the season, short as it is in these
regions, might be of great importance as to the result of our
enterprise, while the ship seemed to be so far secure from
any immediate danger, as to justify my leaving her, with a
reduced crew, in her present situation. It appeared to me
that the present case was one which their Lordships could
\i\
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
SI
not foresee, nor provide against in my Instructions, and that
I was, therefore, called upon to use my own judgment and
discretion, now that it had arisen, and to pursue such a plan
as might hest contribute to the success of our enterprise in
its principal object. Tlie nature of the ice was, beyond all
comparison, the most unfavourable for our purpose that I
ever remember to have seen. It consisted only of loose
pieces, scarcely any of them fifteen or twenty yards square,
and when any so large did occur, their margins were sur-
rounded by the smaller ones thrown up by the recent pres-
sure into ten thousand various shapes, and presenting high
and sharp angular masses at every othnr step. The men
compared it to a stone-mason's yard, which, except that the
stones were of ten times the usual dimensions, it indeed very
much resembled. The only inducement to set out over such
a road, was the certainty that floes and fields lay beyond it,
and the hope that they were not far beyond it. In this
respect, indeed, I considered our present easterly position
as a probable advantage, since the ice was much less likely
to have been disturbed to any great extent northwards in
this meridian than to the westward, clear of the land, where
every southerly breeze was sure to be making havock
among it. Another very important advantage in setting off
on this meridian appeared to me to be, that, the land of
Spitzbergen lying immediately over against the ice, the
is2r.
May.
mi
}
!«P<!
■;jj:
<)0
NAUUATIVF, OF AN ATTEMPT
'I I
■^ ^i
w
m "i":
j| i;;
l,i:-
f1 ■">?.,
'I
It
Muv.
Suiula\,
2;tli;
latter could never drii't so much or so fast to tlie southward,
as it might I'lU'ther to the westward.
Upon these grounds it was that I was anxious to make an
attempt, at least, as soon as our arrangements could he com-
pleted; and the officers heing of the same oi)inion with
myself, we hoisted out the boats early in the morning of the
27th, and having put the things into one of them, endea-
voured, by way of experiment, to get her to a little distance
from the ship. Such, however, were the irregularities of the
ice that, even with the assistance of an additional party of
men, it was obvious that we could not have gained a single
mile in a day, and what was still more important, not without
almost certain and serious injury to the boats by their strik-
in<;' against the angular masses. Under these circumstances,
it was but too evident to every one that it would have been
higi. ly imprudent to persist in setting out, since, if the ice
after all should clear away, even in a week, so as to allow us
to get a few miles nearer the main body, time would be
ultimately saved by our delay, to say nothing of the wear
and tear, and expense of our provisions. I was, therefore,
very reluctantly compelled to yield to this necessity, and to
order the things to be got on board again. In the mean
time I despatched Lieutenant Ross, with a couple of men, to
make a rapid journey over the ice to the northward, in order
to gain some information respecting the nature and state of
TO REACH THE NORTH I'OI-E. tS
it in that direction. Lieutenant Itoss returned at ni«jjlit,
liavin<^ travelled about ten miles, in the course of which he
passed over one good floe, from two to three miles wide, and
the rest was of the same kind as near tlic ship. Upon the
whole, his report did not offer us much encouragement to
set off from our present station.
On the following morning I sent Lieutenant Crozier, with
a small party, to the E.N.L., with the same object ; but he
had not travelled above four miles, and therefore not beyond
the limit of our view from the shij), when the ice bcgiiming
to open, I was obliged to recall him. The ice, however,
soon settled back again into its former place, as it had done
several times before, moving about two hundred yards one
way or other, according to the winds, and perhaps the tide.
Immediately that we had, on the 27th, proved experi-
mentally the extreme difficulty of transporting our boats
and stores over the ice which now surrounded us, I made
up my mind to the very great probability tliere seemed to
be of the necessity of adopting such alterations in our original
plans as would accommodate them to these untoward cir-
cumstances at the outset. The boats forming the main
impediment, not so much on account of their absolute weight,
as from the difficulty of managing so large a body upon a
road of this nature, I made preparations for the possible
contingency of our having to take only one, continuing the
same number of men in our whole party. All that I saw
I.
1827.
M.iv.
^londav,
•J-tli."
^i
m
''f:
B
:n
24
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
Mav.
W'
reason to apprehend from having only a single boat on our
outward journey, was some occasional delay in ferrying over
spaces of water in two trips instead of one ; but we consi-
dered that this would be much more than compensated by
the increased rate at which we should go whenever we were
upon ice, as we expected to be nine days out of ten. The
principal disadvantage, therefore, consisted in our not all
being able to sleep in the boat, and this we proposed to
obviate in the following manner.
We constructed, out of the Lapland snow-shoes, fourteen
sledges, each sledge consisting of two pair, well fastened
together. Upon these we proposed dragging .ilmost all the
weight, so as to keep the boat nearly without any cargo in
her, as we found by experiment that a man could drag about
three hundred pounds on one of the sledges, with more
facility than he could drag the boat when his proportion did
not exceed one hundred pounds. Upon these sledges we
proposed lodging half our party alternately each night, plac-
ing them under the lee of the boat, and then stretching over
them, as a sloped roof, a second awning which we fitted for
the purpose. Upon this plan we likewise could afford to make
our boat considerably stronger, adding some stout iron knees
to the supports of her runners, and increasing our store of ma-
terials for repairing her. The weight reduced by this arrange-
ment, would have been a))Ove two thousand pounds, without
taking away any article conducive to our comfort, except
TO REACH THE NOUTH POLE.
Sff
the boat and her gecr. I proposed to the officers and men,
who had been selected to accompany me, tliis cliangc in our
equipment ; and I need scarcely say that they all clearly saw
the probable necessity of it, and cheerfully acquiesced in its
adoption, if requisite.
On the 29th, I sent Lieutenants Foster and Crozit i' with
the greater part of the ship's company, and with a third or
spare travelling-boat, to endeavour to land her on Red Beach,
together with a quantity of stores, including provisions, as a
deposit for us on our return from the northward, should it
so happen, as was not improbable, that we should return
to the eastward. It is impossible to describe the labour
attending this attempt. Suffice it to say that, after working
for fourteen hours, they returned on board at midnight, hav-
ing accomplished about four miles out of the six. The next
day they returned to the boat, and after several hours' exertion
landed her on the beach with the stores. What added to
the fatigue of this service, was the necessity of taking a
small boat to cross pools of water on their return, so that
they had to drag this boat both ways, besides that which
they went to convey. Having, however, had an opportiuiity
of trying what could be done upon a regular and level floe
which lay close to the beach, every body was of opinion, as
I had always been, that we could easily travel twenty miles
a day on ice of that kind.
Every one was now occupied in completing our arrangc-
£
IVIav.
Tupscl.iv.
•J'Mli.'
Wi'dnosiliiv.
3Utli.
Thursday,
31st.
'■if
m
I n
3
. (
^'i^i
26
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
May.
% ■'^i'f.i
!H.,
4n'
i .■:
'■■V
(i;
•I'-.'
Friday,
.Tune 1st,
ments on the new plan of taking only one boat, stowing all
our provisions on the sledges, and adopting every possible
expedient to save weight and labour. Another week was
fast passing without any improvement in the prospect of
our getting the ship free, so as either to carry us farther
north, or to put her into harbour. It may here be remarked
that our only chance of this latter seemed at the time to
depend on our getting to the westward, since there were no
known places of shelter on the northern side of Spitzbergen ;
beside which it would be much more difficult to get hence
in the autumn. Now it so happened, whether from any
local cause or not I cannot say, that during the sixteen days
we had already been beset, there had not been wind enough
from the eastward to fill a skysail; added to which we
found a decided easterly set, which carried the ship a little
now and then in that direction.
It will not, then, be wondered at if this apparent hope-
lessness of getting the ship free for the present again sug-
gested the necessity of my own setting out ; and I had once
more, after an anxious consultation with my officers, resolved
on making a second attempt, when the ice near us, which
had opened at regular hours with the tide for three or four
days past, began to set us much more rapidly than usual to
the eastward, and towards a low point which runs off from
Red Beach, near its eastern end, causing us to shoal the
water, in a few hours, from fifty-two to twenty fathoms, and
1! ':
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
«7
on the following morning to fourteen and a half. By send-
ing a lead-line over the ice a few hundred yards beyond us,
we found ten fathoms water. However unfavourable the
aspect of our affairs seemed before, this new change could
not fail to alter it for the worse. The situation of the ship
now, indeed, required ray whole attention ; for though the
ice occasionally opened and shut within twenty or twenty-
five yards of us on the inshore side, the ship herself was
still very firmly imbedded by the turned-up masses which
had pressed upon her on the I9th, and which, on the other
side, as well as ahead and astern, were of considerable extent.
Thus she formed, as it were, part of a floe, which went
drifting about in the manner above-described. This was of
little importance while she was in sixty fathoms of water, as
she was for the first fourteen days of our besetment, and at
a distance of five or six miles from the land ; but now that
she had shoaled the water so considerably, and approached
the low point within two or three miles, it became a matter
of importance to try whether any labour we could bestow
upon it would liberate the ship from her present imbedded
state, so as to be at least ready to take advantage of slack
water, should any occur, to keep her off the shore. All
hands were, therefore, set to work with handspikes, capstan
bars, and axes, it being necessary to detach every separate
mass, however small, before the larger ones could be moved.
The harassing and laborious nature of this operation is such
E 2
1827.
June.
I; ' ti
i
S8
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
June.
I
Jt
.;!?■
!■ r
li
as nothing but experience can possibly give an idea of, espe-
""-"^ cially when, as in this case, we had only a small pool of clear
water near the margin, in which the detached pieces could
be floated out. However we continued at work, with only
the necessary intermissions for rest and meals, during this
Sunday, 3rd. and the two following days, and on the evening of the third,
had accomphshed all that the closeness of the ice would
permit ; but the ship was still by no means free, numberless
masses of ice being doubled under her, even below her
keel, and which could not be moved without more space
for working.
While thus employed, we had once more deepened the water,
the ice continuing to set more or less rapidly to the eastward,
except for a few hours on the 2nd, when a fresh breeze spring-
ing up from the S.E. carried us, with the ice, and by the
help of all our sails, .about one mile to the N.W. ; but the
moment the wind fell (which it did just as it had opened a
few holes of water to the westward) we began again to move
over the ground in the opposite direction. At midnight,
Monday, 4th. ou the 3rd, the ice slackened about us very quickly, and the
ship was immediately found to be setting more rapidly than
ever to the eastward. In three-{j[uarters of an hour the
water shoaled from fifty-two to twenty-five fathoms, and
in ten minutes after we had nine and three-quarters, the
ship driving at the rate of two miles an hour past a low
point which runs off from under the high land of Grey
•-.fi
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
89
Hook. There being now a little open water at the margin
of the floe in which we had been imbedded, we succeeded
in freeing the ship, and then laid out hawsers in each direc-
tion, in readiness for moving her, should she drive into still
shoaler water. Happily, however, this was not the case,
the ice soon after closing us in towards the entrance of
Weyde Bay, and the water gradually deepening to thirty-
seven, and then to sixty-seven fathoms.
Painful as was this protracted delay in setting out upon
the principal object of the expedition, the absolute necessity
of it will scarcely, I think, be doubted by any person con-
versant in such matters. So long as the ship continued
undisturbed by the ice, nearly stationary, and in deep water,
for several days together, I had, in my anxiety to lose not
a moment's time, ventured to flatter myself with the hope
that, in a case of such unlooked-for emergency, when every
moment of our short and uncertain season was of impor-
tance, I might be justified in quitting my ship at sea ; and
in this opinion the zeal of my officers, both those who were
to accompany me, and those who were to remain on board,
induced them unanimously to concur. But the case was
now materially altered ; for it had become plain to every
seaman in the ship — first, that the safety of the Hecla, if
thus left with less than half her working hands, could not
be reckoned upon for an hour — and, secondly, that no
human foresight could enable us to conjecture, should we
1827.
June.
i Vi
i
■if
n
30
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
'.'ii
pU :•'.
!-il :
Juiiu.
set out while she was thus situated, when or where we
should find her on our return. In fact, it appeared to us
at this time, as indeed it was, a very providential circum-
stance, that the impracticable nature of the ice for travelling
had offered no encouragement to persevere in my original
intention of setting out a week before this time. While,
therefore, it occasioned me inexpressible regret to be thus
detained, I could not entertain a doubt that I was perform-
ing an imperative duty in remaining on board ; for, to have
done otherwise, under such circumstances, would have been
to abandon the ship to her fate, on the one hand; and,
on the other, to expose my own party to almost certain
destruction. So that all I could do was to wait for some
favourable turn which would, enable me to get the ship into
security, and then to proceed to the northward, in full con-
fidence of finding her on my return.
I have before stated, that our hopes of finding a harbour
had hitherto rested on our getting the ship to the westward.
Such, however, was the decided tendency of the ice to drift in
the contrary direction, that it now appeared next to impos-
sible that we could effect that object in any reasonable time.
Indeed, we had for a week past wholly lost sight of the
open water about Cloven Cliff; but as we continued to drive
to the eastward, we observed a constant darkness, and very
frequently a dense fog-bank, in the horizon, from about a
N.E.b.E. to a N.N.E. bearing, which we considered an
TO REACH TIIE NORTH POLE.
31
indication of open water in that direction. To this quarter,
therefore, we now more particularly turned our attention ;
and on the 4th we were almost certain that we could, from
the mast-head, discover the water, extending two or three
points to the northward from Verlegen Hook. This cir-
cumstance excited new hopes ; for could we only have had
room to move about in, we did not doubt our being soon
able to discover some place of shelter for the ship.
For the two following days we continued closely beset, but
still driving to the eastward across the mouth of Weyde Bay,
which is here six or seven miles in breadth, and appeared to
be very deep, the land in the centre receding to a distance
of full eight leagues. In the afternoon of the 6th, we had
driven within five miles of a point of land, beyond which,
to the eastward, it seemed to recede considerably ; and this
appearing to answer tolerably to the situation of Muscle or
Mussell Bay, as laid down in most of the charts, I was very
anxious to discover whether we could here find shelter for
the ship. A lane of water leading towards the land at no
great distance from us, I hauled a boat over the ice, and
then rowed on shore, accompanied by Lieutenant Foster
and some of the other officers, taking with me another small
store of provisions, to be deposited here, as a future resource
for my party, should we approach this part of the coast.
Landing at half past six, p.m., and leaving Mr. Bird to
bury the provisions. Lieutenant Foster and myself "walked
1827.
June.
Tiu'S(1;iy,.-.ili.
Wi'diu'sdiiy,
f.lli.
f
I
111
■:;ii''
.■ \i
82
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
Juiif.
-,L '!i-,.
'U-f
without delay to the eastward, and on ascending the point,
found that there was, as we had supposed, an indentation
in the coast on the other side. We now began to con-
ceive the most flattering hopes of discovering something
like a harbour for the ship, and pushed on with all possible
haste to examine the place further ; but, after three hours'
walking, were much mortified, on arriving at its head,
to find that it was nothing but an open bay, entirely
exposed to t^ inroads of all the northern ice, and there-
fore quite unfit for the ship. We returned to the boat
greatly disappointed, and reached the Hecla at 1 . 30, a.m.,
on the 7th.
This bay, which is very small, but appears the only one
which answers to Muscle or MusscU Bay, lies ten miles to
the S.W. of \^erlegen Hook, and is about two miles in
depth, having a beach composed of small rounded stones, and
covered with great quantities of drift-wood, which, indeed,
is the case with every part of this coast on which we landed.
Some of the trees, with their roots attached to them, were
not less than eighteen inches in diameter ; and the smaller
ones were very abundant, the whole being of the pine tribe.
The rocks are composed of mica-slate, which Mr. Beverly
remarked to dip to the eastward, generally at an angle of
about 70°, and sometimes to lie still nearer a perpendicular
direction. The land to the eastward of this part of the
coast, as Phipps has justly remarked, assumes a very dif-
,■» .
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
03
forcnt aspect from that to tlic westward ; the latter being
the most rugged and acuminated that I ever saw, and this
becoming of a more smooth and rounded outline, ^^'e were
a good deal surprized, on landing, to find that large streams
of water were rushing down the sides of all the hills, and
that there were large ponds of it in every direction ; a cir-
cumstance the less expected by us, since we had certainly
never seen it half so abundant in any of our winter stations
at this season ; not even at ^Mnter Island, which lies in
latitude G6°.{, or nearly 14° to the southward of this. The
water was running copiously, even at a height of three or
four hundred feet above the sea, almost at midnight ; and the
Saxifraga Oppositifolia was quite out in flower at a similar
height. We saw several rein-deer, and killed a small one.
It was high water at 10.40, p.m., the tide having risen two
feet ten inches in about four hours. There was here an
extensive floe of land -ice, filling the upper part of the bay,
as shown by the broken lino in the chart ; but it was so
thin and watery, that we could have cut through it, at least
half a mile, in two days, had the place been such as to re-
quire it. This operation I had always anticipated as likely
to be requisite, wherever the ship should be placed. The
variation of the magnetic needle, as observed upon tlie ice
near this spot, was 18° 10' 30", westerly.
From the hills we could plainly distinguish a considerable
space of open water to the eastward of AY^rlegen Hook, as
F
lfi.7.
lunt'.
m
34
NARRATIVE OF AN ATfEMPT
;S
)••■
Ik
June
827. we had supposed to be the case when on board ; and I could
not help feeling great confidence that, could we now have
been enabled to place the Hecla in security, we might have
got the boats into this water, which appeared to lead directly
to the northward, and thus have reached the main ice with-
out much difficulty. As it was, we were obliged to submit
to the necessity of still awaiting some favourable change ;
and those only, who have been in similar situations, can con-
ceive how painful such a necessity was.
I never remember to have experienced in these regions
such a continuance of beautiful weather as we now had,
during more than three weeks that we had been on the
northern coast of Spitzbergen. Day after day we had a
clear and cloudless sky, scarcely any wind, and, with the
exception of a few days previously to the 23d of IMay, a
warm temperature in the shade, and quite a scorching sun.
On the 3d of June we had a shower of rain, and on the 6tli
it rained pretty hard, for two or three hours. After the 1st
of June we could procure abundance of excellent water upon
the ice, and by the end of the first week the floe pieces
were looking blue with it in some parts, and the snow had
everywhere become too soft to bear a man's weight.
On the 7th, the ship, still closely beset, had drifted much
more to the eastward, being within a mile of the spot where
the provisions had been deposited the preceding evening.
There was now no other ice between us and the land, except
Tliursday,
7th.
TO REACH THK NDUTIl I'OI.K,
w
the floe to which ^e had hceii so h)nj» attiichcd ; and round
this we wore occasionally obliged to warp, whenever a little
slackening of the ice permitted, in order to prevent our get-
ting too near the rocks. In this situation of suspense and
anxiety we still remained until the evening of the 8th,
when a breeze, at length, springing up from the southward,
began to open out the ice from the point near which we
lay. As soon as the channel was three or four hundred
yards wide, we warped into the clear water and, making
sail, rounded the point in safety, having no soundings with
twenty fathoms, at one-third of a mile from a small rocky
islet lying oft' it. In the mean time the wind had been
driving the ice so fast off" the land as to form for us a clear
communication with the open water before seen to the east-
ward ; and thus were we at length liberated from our con-
finement, after a close and tedious " besetmcnt" of twenty-
four days.
This escape appeared to give us all fresh animation, and
we now entertained the most confident hopes of being able
shortly to effect the object we had so long had at heart,
that of securing the Hecla in some harbour previously to our
departure in the boats ; an object which the events of the
last few days had shown to be indispensably necessary, before
I could venture to set out. With this view we stretched
along the low point of A''erlegen Hook, round which we
found some swell coming in from ^Vaygatz Strait, the wind
F 2
I S.T.
June.
FriJay,
sth.
■ l.z
;'|fW
?;
ifl
-
*|l
h
'''1
m
-.1
'^li
n'*
■i^'fia
'pj ' S
''!'l
fi
!"
■^M
1^
SG
NAUKATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
'.1
16 Jr.
.hint'.
Satunlav,
yt|i. ■
blouinp; strong from the soiitliward, with heavy rain, during
the night. A^V, therefore, hiy to under this hind till the
wind had moderated, and the ^veatller cleared ; and early in
the morning of the 9th, made sail to the N.N.E., towards
the Seven Islands, finding a clear sea in that direction.
On the low shore near A'^crlegen Hook, we saw a house,
which appeared in a ruinous state, and which \v'e sui)posed
to have belonged to some Hussian settlers. Near this
Hook, too, we found, for the first time on the north coast
of Spitzbergen, heavy grounded ice, such as we had formerly
been accustomed to find upon all shelving shores. This
circumstance appeared to us worthy of remark, as seeming
to aftbrd a proof that the heavy or field ice seldom, if ever,
comes actually home upon these shores ; for otherwise it
would leave many traces of that kind. Wc were pleased to
sec that, except these grounded masses, there was, along this
shore, no other ice attached to the land.
At noon, being in latitude 80° IG' 40' by observation, and
the high land of Verlegen Hook bearing south (true) dis-
tant from four to five leagues, we had no bottom with ninety
fathoms of line. A haze clearing off about this time, we
saw the land to the eastward, and hauled up for it, towards
Brandyw inc Bay, with the intention of examining that part
of the coast for a harbour. The " packed" ice was at this
time four or five miles to the westward of us, and the blink
was very strongly marked, and of a yellowish colour, over
TO HEACII THE NOUTII TOI.K.
87
'.I
i
the ^^ll()lc of tlic iiortliorn and western horizons. At two,
P.M., after st;uulin«i; about six miles to the eastward, \vc
struck soundings in seventeen, and innnediately afterwards
in fifteen fathoms. As no Uuid eould he seen within many
leagues of us, we tacked till a boat could be got a-head to
sound, and then kept to the I'.X.E., having from foiu'teeii
to ten fathoms for several miles in that direction. The
■weatlier had now become hazy, and the wind light ; but wc
could perceive, to t'c soMth-castw.trd, a (juantity of heavy ice,
ajiparently aground, at four or five miles' distance; this wc
supposed to be lying around the " T ow T land" of riiipjjs,
which conjecture subsequently prov' >^ correct. The \veather
becoming more thick, with rain, sleet, ar.f! snow, we were
obliged to put ihc ship's hcaii to the N.'W ., and lie to ; and
in drifting to the northward soon dropped of! i ra> deep
water, the hand-leads not reaching the bottom.
The weather continued so thick that, impatient as we were
to stand in towards the eastern land, we could not venture
to do so till eleven a.m., on the 10th, when we made sail
towards Drandywine Bay, the wind being now from the
W.S.^V., or nearly dead upon that shore. The ^^eather
clearing up at ■ ' ., p.m., wc saw the eastern land, and soon
after discovered the grounded ice off Low Island ; Wnl-
den's Island v. as also plainly in sight to the X.E. The Bay
seemed tkeply indented, and very Hkely to afFod nooks such
is2r.
■hino.
Suiiilay,
lutli.
Ul
P
M
Ik
38
XAllRATIVE OF AX ATTEMPT
•4
1
\h-:t.
.Tin f .
as wc ^vantcd ; and where so large a space of open water,
and consequently some sea, had been exerting its influence
for a considerable time, we flattered ourselves with the most
sanguine hopes of now having access to the shores, sufficiently
near, at least, for sawing into some place of shelter. How,
then, shall I express our surprize and mortification in finding
that the whole of the coast, from the islands northwards to
Black Point, and apparently also as far as ^\'alden's Island
was rendered inaccessible by one continuous and heavy floe,
everywhere attached to the shores, and to the numberless
grounded masses about the island, this immense barrier
being in some places six or seven miles in width, and not
less than twelve feet in thickness near the margin !
In standing in towards this floe, from the north-westward,
we had no bottom with thirty-five fathoms of line ; but, after
sailing out on the opposite tack about a mile, we suddenly
struck soundings in ten, and before the ship's head came
round, had decreased to seven fathoms. Lowering a boat,
I immediately went away to sound, and found that some
heavy masses of ice, near us, and lying close off the margin
of the floe, were aground in six ftithoms, our distance
from the north-eastern part of the island being about four
or five miles. Nearer to the island the water deepened
again to thirteen and fifteen fathoms ; so that this api)ears
to be a bank lying by itself at that distance; and upon
M-'*>
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
39
which there is, perhaps, less water than I found, as the iioe
prevented my sounding more to the eastward about the
shoalest part.
The prospect from our masthead at this time was cer-
tainly enough to cast a damp over every sanguine expec-
tation I had formed, of being soon enabled to place the Ilecla
in security ; and more willingly than ever would I, at this
period, have persuaded myself, if possible, that I should be
justified in quitting her at sea. Such, however, was the
nature of this navigation, as regarded the combined diffi-
culties arising from ice and a large extent of shoal and un-
surveyed ground, that, even with our full complement of
officers and men on board, all our strength and exertions
might scarcely have sufficed, in a single gale of wind, to keep
the ship tolerably secure, and much less could I have ensured
placing her ultimately in any proper situation for picking
up an absent party ; for, if once again beset, she must, of
course, be at the mercy of the ice. The conclusion was,
therefore, irresistibly forced upon my mind, that thus to have
left the ship would have been to expose her to imminent
and certain peril, rendering it impossible to conjecture where
we should find her on our return, and therefore rashly to
have placed all parties in a situation from which nothing but
disaster could reasonably be expected to ensue.
The wind liaving now freshened up from the S.^N'^.IjAV.,
lS-.'7.
luiio.
if
t,:
!!■
1.' ii
I'
40
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
182r.
JllIK'.
T>I(ni'.;iv,
lull."
whicli might be expected to bring tlie drift ice from tlie
" pack " in upon the land, we stood to the X.A^^ to gain an
offing, and, after saihng eighteen miles, came to a quantity
of ice which was streaming off from the margin. A^'hen we
tacked, at 1 1 p.m., our estimated latitude, by our run from
Low Island, was 80° 3G' ; and there was at this time so
much clear water to the northward and N.N.E. of us, that
we might probably have run, without any obstruction, to
80^:i, had there been any object in our doing so. I now
determined to take advantage of the westerly wind, and of
the lee afforded by the ice, to stand back to the southward
towards Waygatz Strait, where a dark pui-ple sky seemed to
indicate clear water, and where, on this account, as well as
from the clearness of the shores about Verlegen Hook, we
hoped there might be access to the land near some harbour.
In keeping in that direction, in the course of the night, we
found that the ice was drifting very fast to the eastward ;
and on the morning of the 11th, it was not without some
difficulty that we got to windward of the shoal ground off
the west end of Low Island ; so near had the ice now ap-
proached it, though, forty-eight hours before, none was to
be seen from the ship's deck, in a much more westerly posi-
tion than this, ^^'hen we had proceeded a little farther to
the southward, we found that the same effect had been
produced in a much more surprising degree under all the
m
TO REACH THE XOllTH POLE
41
i
II
e
lands about the entrance of "\^''aygati5 Strait, anil towards
A^erlegcn Hook, where it was now^ not possible to a})proach
the shores in any one place in sight from our masthead.
]My intentions being thus again baffled, and there being
every probability that, if the westerly wind lasted, it would
soon leave us no space in which to keep luider way, we now
pushed back again to the northward, preferring to be beset
in a high latitude, if we were to be beset at all. However,
in the course of the I2t\\, the wind shifted to the north-
ward ; of which circumstance I gladly took advantage to
endeavour to get a sight of the main ice, and at the same
time to examine about A>'alden Island, though A\ith little
hopes of finding a harbour on so small a spot of land. This
island was regarded by us at this time Avitli no common
interest, since it now appeared probable tliat it would form
one of the stations to which provisions and information
would be carried, as an assistance to our party on their
return from the northward.
After beating through much ice, which was all of the
drift or broken kind, and had all found its way hither
in the last two days, we got into an open space of water
inshore, and about six miles to the northward of Low
Island; and on the morning of the 13th stretched in to-
wards '\\'alden Island, around which we found, as wc had
feared, a considerable quantity of fixed ice. It was certainly
much less here than elsewhere ; but the inner, or eastern
G
.IlllH'.
Tuesday,
I Jill.
Wi'diu'silaj',
i:Jtli.
:r
ih
42
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
June.
if
-*■
side of the island was entirely enveloped by it. In fact,
the very circumstance which tended to clear the northern
and western sides of any land hereabouts, and to retain the
ice on the northern and eastern, (namely, the exposure of
the former, and the sheltered situation of the latter, rela-
tively to the open water,) tended also to delay the accom-
plishment of our wishes ; for it was against the sea and the
pressure of ice from the south and west alone that it was
very important at present to secure the ship, and from any
such shelter we were still unavoidably shut out.
Having from twenty-six to twenty-four fathoms at the
distance of four miles from AValden Island, I was preparing
two boats, with the intention of going to sound about its
northern point, which was the most clear of ice, and not
without a faint hope of finding something like shelter there ;
but I was prevented by a thick fog coming on. Indeed,
ever since we had got into open water, we had scarcely once
seen the blue sky, and for ten hours out of every twelve we
had experienced fog, sleet, or snow. Continuing, therefore,
to beat to the northward, we passed occasionally a good
deal of loose drift-ice, but with every appearance of much
clear water in that direction; and the weather clearing
about midnight, we observed in latitude 80° 43' 32". The
Seven Islands were in sight to the eastward, and the " Little
Table Island " of Thipps's bore E.N.E. (true), distant about
nine or ten miles. It is a mere craggy rock, rising perhaps
TO REACH TlIE NORTH POLE.
48
I i"*
-!
'"
,
from three to four hundred feet above the level of the sea,
and with a small low islet lying off its northern end. This
island, being the northernmost known land in the world,
naturally excited much of our curiosity ; and bleak and
barren and rugged as it is, one could not help gazing at it
with intense interest.
The wind freshened from the northward on the 14th, Thmsday.
I4th.
and as this was likely to clear the margin of the main ice,
we still continued to beat up towards it under all sail, in
the confident hope of soon meeting it, or at least of forming
some idea, from appearances, where we might expect to do
so in the boats. As we advanced to the northward, we fell
in with more and more drift-ice ; but at noon, when in
latitude, by observfition, 80° 49' 6", or one mile to the north-
ward of Phipps's furthest, nothing like the heavy or main
ice could be seen. In the evening the drift-ice stil?
increased, and we passed one or two floes, but not of a heavy
kind. At midnight we had reached the latitude of 81" 5' 32".
Our longitude, by chronometers, at this time was 19" 34'
East, Little Table Island bearing S.26"K. (true), distant six
or seven leagues, and A\'alden Island S. 4 E *. The depth
* I liavc been tluis particular in noticing the Ilechi's position, because our
observations would appear to be, with one exception, the most northern on
record at that time. Tiie Commissioners of Longitude, in their memorial to
the King in Council, in the year 1821, consider that the " ])rogress of discovery
has not arrived northwards, according to any well-authenticated accounts, so
far as eighty-one degrees of north latitude." IVIr. Scoresby subsequently states
his having observed in lat. 81' 12' 42".
G 2
$
>■ ,'l
/ii
I' '[y •
'.' I
V i
i '•!.■•
V
44
NARKATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
Ih27.
.luiii'.
of water was ninety-seven fathoms, on a bottom of greenish
mud ; and the temperature, at ninety-five fathoms, by Six's
thermometer, was 29"8, that at the surface being 31", and
of the air 28\ All that could here be seen to the north-
ward was loose drift-ice. To the north-cast it was particu-
larly open, and I have no doubt that we might have gone
many miles further in that direction, had it not been a much
more important object to keep the ship free, than to push
her to the northward. We were, liowever, much disap-
pointed in seeing no indication of the main ice from this
station ; unless, indeed, the yellow blink which overspread
the northern horizon, but which we had seen quite as bright
when forty miles further south, could so be considered.
There was, in fact, scarcely a loose mass to be seen, that
could have ever belonged to a very heavy floe, such as the
main ice is considered to be ; so that, although we were now
twenty-five miles to the northward of the station in which
Phipps remarked that " the ice appeared flat and unbroken,"
as seen from a considerable lieight on shore, all tliat we
could discover was quite of a contrary description. Thus
we were still at a loss to know the position of the main ice
at this time ; while the nature and quantity of that through
which we had been sailing for so many miles were extremely
unfavourable to the progress of boats over it, whenever it
should ])ecome " packed."
We now stood back again to the southward, in order
1
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
45
again to examine the coast wherever we could approach it ;
but found, on the 15th, tliat none of the land was at all
accessible, the wind having got round to the W.N.AV. and
loaded all the shores with drift-ice. Our attention was,
indeed, pretty well occupied in keci)ing the ship at liberty ;
which, however, she probably woidd not have been for
twenty-four hours longer, had the westerly breeze continued ;
for the ice came driving back very quickly from that quarter,
and would have very soon beset us. Fortunately, however,
on the evening of the 15th, it shifted to the eastward, and
a fresh breeze blowing from that quarter sent it awiiy once
more to the westward in a few hours, leaving us a clear space
of water inshore. I now determined to examine, if possible,
every part of the coast, while this easterly wind kept it clear
of drift-iwC ; and wherever the shore could be approached,
cither by water, or by walking over the ice, to search for a
sheltered place for the ship, that we might at least know of
such a place, and then take the first opportunity of getting
into it.
AN'^alden Island being the first part clear of the loose ice,
we stretched in for it on the 16th, and, when within two
miles, observed that about half that space was occui)ied by
land ice, even on its north-western side, which was tlK only
accessible one, the rest being wholly enclosed by it. How-
ever, being desirous of obtaining a better view than our
crow's-nest commanded, and also of depositing here a small
June.
Friday, I6II1.
Safiirdav,
lOtli. ■
n
■■'{■
M
1)'
I'l! '
i.
''.' ■ I
M> I
\¥.
r y
;t It
. .i
'V
40
NAUUATn E OF AN ATTEMPT
]H-2T.
June.
IS'
*
supply of provisions, I left the ship at 1 p.m., accompanied
by Lieutenant Foster in a second boat, and, landing upon
the ice, walked over about three-quarters of a mile of high
and rugged hunuuocks to the shore. Ascending two or
three hundred feet, we had a clear and extensive view of
the Seven Islands, and of some land far beyond them to the
eastward; and here the whole sea was covered with one
unbroken land-Hoc attached to all the shores, extending
from the island where we stood, and which formed an abut-
ment for it, each way along the land as far as the eye could
reach. After this discouraging prospect, which wholly
destroyed every hope of finding a harbour among the Seven
Islands, we returned to the place where the men had depo-
sited the provisions, and after making the necessary obser-
vations for the survey, returned immediately on board.
This island, which in some parts is about five hundred
feet above the sea, and precipitous towards the middle,
consists of coarse-grained granite, most of which is black and
white : in the rest the felspar is of a bright flesh-colour,
giving the rock a red hue, and the mica is very abundant and
shining in both kinds. In one place, it seemed to dip to the
north-east, at an angle of 30° ; but it was not very distinctly
marked. A few plants, mosses, and lichens were found.
Of the last-mentioned, the tripe-de-rcche {Gyrophora PrO'
boscidea), the rein-deer moss (Cenomyce Rangiferina), and
the black woolly-looking Cornicularia divergens, were most
TO KKACII TIIK NOUTll POLK.
47
1
■J
abuiuliiiit. A few cider ducks and dovckies were the oidy 1827.
. I line.
animals seen ; but there were traces of rcin-dcer having "^-^ r-
been upon the island. The latitude of the north--^ vest end
is 80" 35' 38"; the longitude, by chronometer, 19' 51' 10" K.,
and the variation of the magnetic needle 17" 42' westerly ;
the latter phenomenon still exhibiting a regular decrease as
we advanced to the eastward. The soundings appeared
deep around the island ; we had thirty-three fathoms at the
margin of the land-ice.
Observing from the island that the sea was perfectly clear
to the northward, we now stood for Little Table Island,
with some slight hope that the rock otf its northern end
might afford shelter for the ship; at all events, being the
most exposed, on account of its situation, it was the most
likely to be free from ice. A thick fog prevented our get-
ting near it till the morning of the 1 7th, when, having Suiuiny,
approached it within a mile and a half, I sent Lieutenant
Ross on shore to the little islet, which was (juitc clear of ice,
and where he dei)osited another small store of ])rovisions,
but found nothing Hkc shelter for the ship. The islet consists
of gneiss, having garnets imbedded in some specimens ; ]\[r.
JJeverly could not discover in what direction it dipped. This
small rock, with specimens of which (as being the northern-
most known land in the world) the boat returned loaded,
is about one hundred feet above the sea, and the Table
Island about four or five hundred, both occupying an extent
irth.
s
•:r.
: ,•;■! i
48
NAKUATIVK OF AN ATl'F.MPT
I
.'lino.
of pi'iliaps oiR'-tliird of u scjiiavc luilo. T-ioutouaiit lioss
tlcscribcd tlic rocks as covered Avilli abundance of vorv lame
tiTpc-dc'-rochc, some rein-deer moss, and otlier licliens ; and
there vas abundance of fi;ood Avater in jiools. A few brent-
geese, eider-ducks, and a Lcstris Parasiticus, were all liic
animals seen. A\'e place tliis island, by a meridian altitude
observed on board this day, in latitude 80° 48'; but the
observation was an indifferent one, and with the sea hori/on,
which is never to In; trusted. A\'e had no bottom with
thirty-five fathoms, at one mile distance, on the north and
west sides, and lieutenant ]{oss found twelve fathoms
alongside the rocks. This was the only island round which
a ship might, at this time, have sailed ; all the others in
sight being entirely enclosed by a barrier of fixed ice.
Having no further business here, and the easterly wind
still continuing, I thought the best thing we could do,
would be to run again to the southward of Low Island, and
try once more to approach the shores about the entrance
of the A\'aygatz Strait. Wq, therefore, bore up under all
sail to the south-west.
It would be vain to deny that I had lately begun to
entertain the most serious apprehensions, as related to the
accomplishment of our principal object. The 17th of June
had now arrived, and all that we saw afforded the most
discouraging i)rospect as to our getting the Hecla into har-
bour ; while every day's experience showed how utterly rash
14
TO UEACII Tf!K NORTH I'oLK.
49
a measure it would be to think of quitting her in her present
situation, which, even uith all her ofHcers and men, was
one of extreme precariousness and uncertainty. Although
I was in the habit of daily and almost hourly connuunicatiou
witli my officers, yet I thought it my duty once nu)re to
require from them ofiiciall} their opinions upon tliis subject,
which I found to agree entirely with my own. Indeed,
there could not, luuler present circumstances, be two opi-
nions upon the subject.
Standing to the S.W. after passing Walden Island, we
came, as usual, pretty suddenly into sixteen ithoms, when
at the distance of six or seven miles from the north side of
Low Island. In running for the grounded hummocks off
tlic west extremity, which is. itself so low as to be scarcely
discernible when any ice lies near it, we soon had from
twelve to ten ; but in keeping out, in order to deepen the
water, wc suddenly fell into seven, and, for more than an
hour's quick run, did not get a cast above ten. There
being at this time a considerable swell, and too much ice
still adhering to the island to enable us to seek a shelter
there, I did not choose to risk getting the ship on the
ground, and therefore hauled to the southward, towards
A'erlegen Hook, to prosecute our search for a harbour once
more in that quarter. On the evening of the 18th, while
standing in for the high land to the eastward of \''erlegcn Hook,
which, with due attention to the lead, may be approached
H
.Timi'
Mondiu,
1-th.'
.1/.
-•'w •
1837.
■ IllMO.
Tiu"iilav,
rjlli.'
00
NAUItATlVK OF AN .v'TKAliT
'Wi'ilnfsdny,
iiutli.
uith salety, we pcrceiviJil IVoiu the crov, h-iu*st what appi-arcd
a low point, j)()!ssil)ly atKuding soino slicUer lor the .shij), and
"which seemed to answer to an indentation of the coast laid
down in an old J)nteh chart*, and there called Treurcnburg
Bai/.
On the follow inn- morning T proceeded to examine the
place, accompanied by I-ieutcnant Eoss in a second boat,
and, to our great joy, found it a considerable bay, w ith one
part affording excellent land-locked anchorage, and, what
was equally fortunate, sufficiently clear of ice to allow the
ship to enter. Having sounded, the entrance, and deter-
termincd on the anchorage, we returned to the ship to bring
her in ; and I cannot describe the satisfaction which the
inlbrmation of our success communicated to every individual
on board. The main object of our enterprise now appeared
almost within our grasp, and every body seemed anxious to
make up, by renewed exertions, for the time we had una-
voidably lost. The ship was towed and warped in with the
greatest alacrity, and at 1. 40, a.m., on the 20th, we droj)ped
the anchor in Ilecla Cove, in thirteen fathoms, on a bottom
of very tenacious blue clay, and made some hawsers fast to
the land-ice which still filled all the upper part of the bay.
After resting a few hours, we sawed a canal, a quarter of a
mile in length, through which the ship was removed into a
* Nicuwc aftcckcniiig van Ilet Eyiand Spits-Bergcn, opgogcvcn door cic
Comniaiuk-uis Giles en Outgcr Rep, en in't Liglit gcbragt en uytgegeven door
Gerard Van Kculeii, Sec. Sec.
II
TO REACH TIIR NORTH I'OLK.
51
H
belter situation, a bowcr-cablo taken on sbore and secured
to tbe rocks, and an ancbor Avilb tbe ebain-cable laid out
tbe otlier way. On tbe morning of* tbe 21st, ue bauUd tbe
launeb up on tbe beacb, it being my intention to direct sucb
resources of every kind to be landed, as would rendi-r our
party ubolly independent of tbe sbip, eitber for returning
to England or for wintering, in case of tbe sbip being driven
to sea by tbe ice ; a contingency against wbicli, in tbesc
regions, no precaution can altogelber provide. I directed
Lieutenant Foster, upon Avbom tbe cbargc of tbe Ilecla
was now to devolve, to land witbout delay tbe necessary
stores, keeping tbe sbip sca-wortby by taking in an equal
weigbt of ballast ; and, as soon as be sbould be satisfied of
ber security from ice, to proceed on tbe survey of tbe eastern
coast ; but sbould lie sec reason to doubt her safety, with a
still further diminution of her crew, to relinquish the sur-
vey, and attend exclusively to the ship. I also gave direc-
tions that notices should be sent, in the course of the
summer, to the various stations where our depots of provi-
sions were established, acquainting mc with the situation
and state of the ship, and giving me any other information
which might be necessary for my guidance on our return
from the northward. These and other arrangements being
completed, I left the ship at five, i- m., with our two boats,
which we named the Enterprise and i^ndeavour, ]Mr. Eevcrly
being attached to my own, and Lieutenant Jloss, accompa-
II 2
is:r.
.lllllC.
Tliinsilay,
I
.11
i:
t
53
NAURATIVK or AN ATTEMPT
* •.::
.i"^l;
,,ij
r ■<
June.
iiii'd l)v ]\[i'. l)ii'(l, ill tlio otlu'v. ]k'sidos tlieso, I took Licii-
IciKint Crozicr in one of tlio sliip's cutters, for the purpose
of carryiiiii' some of our \veii>lit as far as >\'aldeii Island, and
also a third store of provisions to be deposited on Low
Island, as an intermediate station between ^Valden Island
and the shij). As it was still necessary not to delay our
return beyond the end of Au<i;ust, the time originally
intended, I took Avith nu« only seventy-one days' provisions ;
which, includini)- the boats and every other article, made up
a weiu'ht of 2i\0 lbs. })er man ; and as it appeared highly
imi)rol)al)le. from what we had seen of the very rugged
nature of the ice we ihould first have to encounter, that
either the rein-deer, th.e snow-shoes, or the wheels would
prove of any service for some time to come, I gave u[) the
idea of taking them. A\'e, however, constructed out of the
snow-shoes four excellent sledges, for dragging a part of our
baggage over the ice ; and these })roved of invaluable service
to us, while the rest of the things just mentioned would
only have been an incumbrance.
Having received the usual salutation of tliree cheers from
those we left behind, we paddled through a quantity of
loose ice at the entrance of the bav, and then steered, in a
perfectly open sea, and with ciilm and beautiful weather, ft)r
the western part of Low Island, which we reached at half
Friaiiy,22nd. past two on the morning of the 2;^nd. I'he low beach on
which we landed \\as principally composed of rounded frag-
I i
M
1
1
' 1
1
> i
f:
f.
f
t i
i
1
I;
i
it
I 4
TO llEACH THE NORTH POLE.
u3
4
i
mcnts of limestone, intermixed with some of clay-slate ; and
several small rounded pieces of pumice-stone were also
found. The drift-wood lined the beach in great (piantities,
the whole being of the pine tribe, as usual, and a Greenland
whaler's harpoon was found lying a?nong it.
Having deposited the provisions, we set off at four, a.m.,
paddling watch and watch, to give the people a little rest.
It was still (|uite calm ; but there being nuich ice about the
isUnul, and a thick fog coming on, we were several hours
groping our way clear of it. The walruses were liere very
numerous, lying in herds upon the ice, and plunging into the
water to follow us as we passed. The sound they utter is
something between l)ellowing and very loud snorting, which,
together with their grim, beai led countenances and long
tusks, makes them appear, as indeed they are, rather formi-
dable enemies to contend with. Under our present circum-
stances, we were very well satisfied not to molest them, ibr
they would soon have destroyed our boats, if one had been
wounded ; but I believe they are never the first to make
the attack. We landed upon the ice still attached to ^N'al-
den Island, at 3. 30, a.m., on the 23rd. Our fiat-bottomed
boats rowed heavily with their loads, but proved perfectly
safe and very comfortable. The men being nuich fatigued,
w'c rested here some hours, and, after making our final
arrangements with Lieutenant Crozier, parted with liim at
three in the afternoon, and set off for Little Table Island.
.luiu'.
Siitni-iliu'.
•-'Jril. "
i
I .;
1
1S27.
June.
5i NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMIT
Finding tlicrc was likely to be so much open water in this
neighbourhood in the autunni, I sent directions to Lieute-
nant Foster to have a spare boat deposited at Walden Island,
in time for our return, in case of any accident happening to
ours.
The land-ice, which still adhered to the Seven Islands,
was very little more broken off than when the Ilecla had
been liere a week before, and we rowed along its margin
a part of the way to Fit tie Table Island, where we arrived
at ten, p.m. ^Vc here examiiied and re-secured the pro-
visions left on shore, having found our depot at Walden
Island disturbed by the bears. The prospect to the north-
ward at this time was very favourable, there being only a
small (piantity of loose ice in sight ; and the weather still
continuing calm and clear, with the sea as smooth as a
mirror, we set off, without delay, at half past ten, taking our
final leave of the Si)itzbergen shores, as we hoped, for at
least two months. Steering due north, we made good pro-
gress, our latitude b^ the sun's meridiaii altitude at midnight
being 80° 5 1' 13". xV beautifully coloured rainbow appeared
for some tin;e, without any r.i)pearance of rain falling. We
observed that a considerable current was setting us to the
eastward just after leaving the land, so that we had made a
N.X.F. course, distance about ten miles, when we met with
some ice, which soon becoming too close for further progress,
we landed upon a high luunmock to obtain a better view.
\
y"
,l(»
TO KEACri TTIE NORTH POLK. 55
A\'c here perceived that tlic ice was close to the iiorlhwanl,
but to the westward discovered some open water, which wc
reached ai'ter two or three hours paddhng-, and found it a
wide expanse, in which we sailed to the north^vard without
obstruction, a fresh breeze having sprung uj) from the S.AV".
The weather soon after became very thick, with continued
snow, requiring great care in h)oking out for the ice, which
made its appearance after two hours run, and gradually
became closer, till at length we were stopped by it at noon,
and obliged to haul the boats upon a small floe-piece, our
latitude by observation being 81° 1:2' 51".
Our plan of travelling being nearly the same throughout
this excursion, after we first entered upon the ice, I may at
once give some account of our usual mode of proceeding,
it was my intention to travel wholly at night, and to rest
by day, there being, of course, constant daylight in lliese
regions dfu-ing the summer season. The advantages of this
plan, Nvhich was occasionally deranged by circumstances,
consisted first, in our avoiding the intense and oppressive
glare from the snow during the time of the sun's greatest
altitude, so as to prevent, in some degree, the painful in-
flammation in the eyes, called " snow-blindness," which is
common in all snowy countries, M^c also thus enjoyed
greater warmth during the hours of rest, and had a bei tcr
chance of drying our clothes ; besides which, no small ad-
vantage was derived from the snow being harder at night
1827.
.Time.
■m
.N1
' i^'i
'»^
;;A
•'i
4
M
■ ll
ii
<^
li;i i
m.
m
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
t
I
r
•k:
.4
I
for travelling. The only disadvantage of this plan was, that
the fogs vere somewhat more frequent and more thiek by
night than by day, though even in this respect there was
less difference than might have been supposed, the tern-
perature during the twenty-four hours undergoing but little
variation. This travelling by night and sleeping by diiy so
completely inverted tiic natural order of things, that it ^ as
difficult to persuade ourselves of the reality. Even the
officers and myself, who were all furnished with pocket
chronometers, could not always bear in mind at what i)art
of the twenty-four hours we had arrived ; and there were
several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, that they
never knew night from day during the whole excursion *.
AMien wo rose in tlic evening, we commenced oui day by
prayers, after which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses,
and put on those for travelling ; the former being made of
camblet, lined with racoon-skin, and the latter of strong blue
box-cloth. ^Vc made a point of always putting on the same
stockings and boots for travelling in, whether they had dried
during the day or not ; and I believe it was on\j ni five or
* Had \vc siiccccdi'tl it! loacliiiifr tlie liiglicr latitudes, where the cliange of
the sun's altitude (hiring tlic twenty-four hours is still less jierccjitible, it would
have heen essentially neeessary to possess the eertain means of knowing this ; since
an .1 ror of t velve hours of time would have carried us, when we intend. 1 to
relurj, on a meridia;; opjiosite to, or 180° from, the right one. To obviate the
possiljility of this, wc iind some chronometers constructed by Messrs. Parkinson
and I'rodsliam, of which the hour-hand made only one revolution in the day,
the twenty-four hours being marked round the dial-plate.
^■m»^^
:i
■
1 ||||R
'U'jI
y.|li
.s
i
TO UEACII THE NORTH POLK.
87
■|
'i
4
six instances, at tlie most, that they were not either still wet
or luird-lVozen. This, indeed, was of no consequence, heyond
the discomfort of first puttin<^ them on in this state, as they
were sure to be thoroughly wet in a quarter of an hour after
commencing our journey ; while, on the other hand, it was
of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping in. ]Jeing
" rigged" for travelling, wc breakfasted upon warm cocoa
and biscuit, and after stowing the things in the boats and on
the pledges, so as to secure them, as much as possible, from
wet, we set oif on our day's journey, and usually travelled
from five to five and a half hours, then stopped an hour to
dine, and again travelled four, five, or even six hours, accord-
ing to circumstances. After this wc halted for the night,
as wc called it, though it was usually early in the morning,
selecting the largest surface of ice we happened to be near,
for hauling the boats on, in order to avoid the danger of its
breaking up by coming in contact with other masses, and
also to prevent drift as much as possible. The boats were
placed close alongside each other, with their sterns to the
wind, the snow^ or wet cleared out of them, and the sails,
supported by the bamboo nmsts and three })addles, placed
over them as awnings, an entrance being left at the bow.
Every man then immediately put on dry stockings and fur
boots, after which wc set about the necessary repairs of
boats, sledges, or clothes ; and, after serving the provisions
for the succeeding day, we went to supper. jMost of tha
I
.Imu'.
«! I
if
Y !
58
NAUUATIVE OF AN ATTE.Ml'T
i-.T. ofliccrs and lucii tlioii Mnokcd llicir nines, wliich served to
Jmii'.
^>— r-' dry tlie boats and awnings very niiieli, and usually raised the
teni[)eraturc ol' our lodgings 10' or 1.5'. This })art ofllie
twenty-lour hours was often u time, and the only oni', of real
enjoyment to us; the men told their stories and " fought all
their battles o'er again," and the labours of the day, unsuc-
cessful as they too often were, were foigotten. A regular
^vateh was set during our resting-tinie, to look out for bears
or for the iee breaking up round us, as well as to attend to
the drying of the clothes, each man alternately taking this
duty for one hour. \Vc then concluded our day with
prayers, and having })ut on our fur-dresses, lay down to
sleep w ith a degree of comfort, which perhaps few persons
would imagine possible under such circumstances ; our chief
inconyenience being, that we were somewhat pinched for
room, and therefore obliged to stow rather closer than was
quite agreeable. The temperature, while mc slept, was
usually from 3(3' to 1'/, according to the state of the external
atnu)sphere ; but on one or tw o occasions, in calm and wju'm
weather, it rose as high as (iO" to 06°, obliging us to throw
off a part of our fur-dress. After we had slept seyen hours,
the man ap])ointed to boil the cocoa roused us, when it was
ready, by the sound of a bugle, when we connnenced our
day in the manner before described.
Our allowance of provisions for each man per day was as
follow s : — ■
^
V
s
[)
s
ll
o
iS
•i'
n
V
IS
IS
I <
'?
:i
I
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%
TO REACH THE NORTH I'OLK. 00
Biscuit 10 ounces.
Pcniniican 9 „
Sweetened Cocoa Powder 1 „ to make one pint.
Eum 1 gill.
Tobacco 3 oimces per week.
Our fuel consisted entirely of spirits of wine, of which two
pints formed our daily allowance, the cocoa l)ein«^ cooked in
an iron boiler over a shallow iron lamp, with seven wicks;
a simple apparatus, which answered our purpose remarkably
well. We lUy found one pint of the spirits of wine
sufficient for preparing our breakfast, that is, for heating
twenty-eight pints of water, though it always commenced
from the temperature of 3:3". If the weather was calm and
fair, this quantity of fuel brought it to the boiling point in
about an hour and a quarter ; but more generally the wicks
began to go out before it had reached 200". This, however,
made a very comfortable meal to persons situated as we
were. Such, with very little variation, was our regular
routine during the whole of this excursion.
We set off on our first journey over the ice at ten, p.m., on
the 24th, Table Island bearing S.S.W., and a fresh breeze
blowing from W.S.AV., with thick fog, which afterwards
changed to rain. The bags of pemmican were placed upon
the sledges, and the bre.ad in the boats, with the intention
of securing the latter from w^et ; but this plan we were very
soun obliged to relinquish. We now commenced upon very
I 2
Juno.
Sunilav,
•J4th."
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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
■ttitt
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14.0
HUu
IL25 im 1.4
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HioiDgraphic
Sciences
Corporation
33 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0
(716) 873-4503
wiin"!"
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60
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
June.
I' '!
1. ' I
Mondfiy,
25th,
Tuesday,
26th.
slow and laborious travelling, the pieces of ice being of small
extent and very rugged, obliging us to make three journies,
and sometimes four, with the boats and baggage, and to
launch several times across narrow pools of water. This,
however, was nothing more than we had expected to en-
counter at the margin of the ice, and for some distance
within it ; and every individual exerted himself to the very
utmost, with the hope of the sooner reaching the main or
field ice. We stopped to dine at five, a.m., on the 25th,
having made, by our log, (which we kept very carefully,
marking the courses by compass, and estimating the dis-
tances,) about two miles and a half of northing; and again
setting forward, proceeded till eleven, a.m., when we halted
to rest, our latitude by observation at noon being 81° 15' 13".
Setting out again at half past nine in the evening, we
found our way to lie over nothing but small loose rugged
masses of ice, separated by little pools of water, obliging us
constantly to launch and haul up the boats, each of which
operations required them to be unloaded, and occupied
nearly a quarter of an hour. In came on to rain very hard
on the morning of the 26th ; and finding we were making
very little progress, (having advanced not more than half a
mile in four hours,) and that our clothes would be soon wet
through, we halted at half past one, and took shelter under
the awnings. The weather improving at six o'clock, we
again moved forward, and travelled till a quarter past eleven,
m
\i i
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
61
^US
when we hauled the boats upon the only tolerably large
floe-piece in sight. The rain had very much increased the
quantity of water lying upon the ice, of which nearly half
the surface was now covered with numberless little ponds
of various shapes and extent. It is a remarkable fact that
we had already experienced, in the course of this summer,
more rain than during the whole of seven previous summers
taken together, though passed in latitudes from 7° to 15**
lower than this. A great deal of the ice over which we
passed to-day presented a very curious appearance and
structure, being composed, on its upper surface, of number-
less irregular needle-like crystals, placed vertically, and nearly
close together ; their length varying, in different pieces of
ice, from five to ten inches, and their breadth in the middle
about half an inch, but pointed at both ends. The upper
surface of ice having this structure sometimes looks like
greenish velvet; a vertical section of it, which frequently
occurs at the margin of floes, resembles, while it remains
compact, the most beautiful satin-spar, and asbestos, when
falling to pieces. At this early part of the season, this kind
of ice afforded pretty firm footing, but as the summer ad-
vanced, the needles became more loose and moveable, render-
ing it extremely fatiguing to walk over them, besides cutting
our boots and feet, on which account the men called them
" penknives." It appeared probable to us that this pecu-
liarity might be produced by the heavy drops of rain piercing
is-2r.
June.
i
it
!''■
m
'*:[>:
I 'I.
m
thy
m ■'■■| 'J~
NAKILVTIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
if
:^!
.;
:
•
i'
i : <l
i
- . 1.4
1827.
June.
■Wednesday,
2rth.
Thursday,
28th.
their way downwards through the ice, and thus separating
the latter into needles of the form above described, rather
than to any regular crystallization when in the act of freezing;
which supposition seemed the more reasonable, as the needles
are always placed in a vertical position, and never occur
except from the upper surface downwards.
We pursued our journey at half past nine, p.m., with the
wind at N.E., and thick weather, the ice being so much in
motion as to make it very dangerous to cross with loaded
boats, the masses being all very small. Indeed, when we
came to the margin of the floe-piece on which we had slept,
w^e saw no road by which we could safely proceed, and there-
fore preferred remaining where we were, to the risk of
driving back to the southward on one of the smaller masses.
On this account we halted at midnight, having waded three-
quarters of a mile through water from two to five inches
deep upon the ice. The thermometer was at 33°. In the
course of this short journey, we saw several rotges and dove-
kies, and a few kittiwakes, ivory gulls, and mallemuckes.
The weather continued so thick that we could only see
a few yards around us ; but the wind backing to the south-
w^ard, and beginning to open out the loose ice at the edge
of the floe, we proceeded at half past ten, p.m., and after
crossing several small pieces, came to the first tolerably heavy
ice we had yet seen, but all broken up into masses of small
extent. At seven, a.m., on the 28th, we came to a floe
J"
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
68
covered with high and rugged hummocks, which opposed
a formidable obstacle to our progress, occurring in two or
three successive tiers, so that we had no sooner crossed one
than another presented itself. Over one of these we hauled
the boats with extreme difficulty, by a " standing pull," and
the weather being then so thick that we could see no pass
across the next tier, we were obliged to stop at nine, a.:m.
While performing this laborious work, which required the
boats to be got up and down places almost perpendicular,
James Parker, my coxswain, received a severe contusion in
his back, by the boat falling upon him from a hummock, and
tlie boats were constantly subject to very heavy blows, but
sustained no damage *. The weather continued very foggy
during the day, but a small lane of water opening out at no
great distance from the margin of the floe, we launched the
boats, at eight in the evening, among loose drift-ice, and
after some time landed on a small floe to the eastward, the
only one in sight, with the hope of its leading to the north-
ward. It proved so rugged that we were obliged to make
three, and sometimes four journies with the boats and pro-
* I may here mention that notwithstanding the licavy blows whicli the boats
were constantly receiving, all our nautical and astronomical instruments were
taken back to the ship without injury. This circumstance makes it, perhaps,
worth while to explain that they were lashed upon a wooden platform in the
after locker of each boat, sufficiently small to be clear of the boat's sides, and
playing on strong springs of whalebone, which entirely obviated the effects of
the severe concussions to which they would otherwise have been subject.
1827.
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June,
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NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
visions, and this by a very circuitous route ; so that the road
by which we made a mile of northing was full a mile and a
half in length, and over this we had to travel at least five,
and sometimes seven times. Thus, when we halted to dine,
at two, A.M., after six hours' severe toil, and much risk to the
men and boats, we had only accomplished about a mile and
a quarter in a N.N.E. direction. After dining we proceeded
again till half past six, and then halted, very much fatigued
with our day's work, and having made two miles and a half
of northing. One of the carpenter's mates was a good deal
hurt by a loaded sledge running against him, which laid
him uj) for a day or two. We were here in latitude, by
account, 81° 23', and in longitude, by the chronometers,
21° 32' 34" E., in which situation the variation of the mag-
netic needle was observed to be 15° 31', westerly. We
now enjoyed the first sunshine since our entering the ice,
and a great enjoyment it was, after so much thick and wet
weather. We rose at half past four, p.m., in the hopes of
pursuing our journey, but after hauling the boats to the
edge of the floe, found such a quantity of loose rugged ice
to the northward of us, that there was no possibiHty, for the
present, of getting across or through it. Soon afterwards
the whole of it became in motion, and driving down upon
the floe, obliged us to retreat from the margin, and wait for
some favourable change. We here tried for soundings, but
found no bottom with two hundred fathoms of line. The
^^¥
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TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
C5
lS-27.
Juni'.
weather was beautifully clear, and the wind moderate
from the S.W. From this situation we saw the eastern-
most of the Seven Islands, bearing S. b.W. ; but Little
Table Island, though more to the northward, yet being
less high, was not in sight. Observing a small opening
at 10. 30, P.M., we launched the boats, and hauled them
across several pieces of ice, some of them being very light
and much decayed. Our latitude, by the sun's meridian
altitude at midnight, was 81° 23'; so that we had made
only eight miles of northing since our last observat'i n at
noon on the 25th.
The 30th commenced with snowy and inclement weather, Saturday,
^ ^ 30th.
which soon rendered the atmosphere so thick, that we could
no longer see our way, obliging us to halt till two, p.m., when
we crossed several small pools with great labour and loss of
time. We had generally very light ice this day, with some
heavy rugged pieces intermixed ; and when hauling across
these we had sometimes to cut with axes a passage for the
boats among the hummocks. AVe also dragged them through
a great many pools of fresh water, to avoid the necessity of
going round them. The wind freshening up from the
S.S.W., we afterwards found the ice gradually more and
more open, so that, in the course of the day, v c made by
rowing, though by a very winding channel, five miles of
northing; but were again stopped by the ice soon after
midnight, and obliged to haul up on the first mass that we siinday,
,^ 1st.
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NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
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Julv.
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could gain, the ice having so mucli motion that we narrowly
escaped being " nipped." "S^^e had passed, during this day's
journey, a great deal of light ice, but, for the first time,
one heavy floe, from two to three miles in length, under
the lee of which we found the most ojien water. A number
of rotges and ivory-gulls were seen about the " holes " of
water, and now and then a very small seal. We set out
again at 11. 30, a.m., the wind still fresh from the S.W., and
some snow falling ; but it was more than an hour before we
could get away from the small piece of ice on which we
slept, the masses beyond being so broken up, and so much
in motion, that we could not at first venture to launch the
boats. Our latitude, observed at noon, was 81° 30' 41".
After crossing several pieces, we at length got into a good
" lead " of water, four or five miles in length ; two or three
of which, as on the preceding day, occurred under the lee
of a floe, being the second we had yet seen that deserved
that name. We then passed over four or five small floes,
and across the pools of water that lay betwixt them. The
ice was now less broken up, and sometimes tolerably level ;
but from six to eighteen inches of soft snow lay upon it in
every part, making the travelling very fatiguing, and oblig-
ing us to make at least two, and sometimes three journies
with our loads. We now found it absolutely necessary to
lighten the boats as much as possible, by putting the bread-
bags on the sledges, on account of the " runners " of the
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
67
boats sinking so much dc^cpcr into the snow ; but our bread
ran a great risk of being wetted by this plan.
As soon as we landed on a floe-piece, Lieutenant Ross
and myself generally went on ahead, while the boats were
unloading and hauling up, in order to select the easiest road
for them. The sledges then followed in our track, jMessrs.
Beverly and Bird accompanying them ; by which the snow
was much trodden down, and the road thus improved for
the boats. As soon as we arrived at the other end of the
floe, or came to any difficult jilace, we mounted one of the
highest hummocks of ice near at hand, (many of which were
from fifteen to five-and-twenty feet above the sea) in order
to obtain a better view around us ; and nothing could well
exceed the dreariness which such a view presented. The eye
wearied itself in vain to find an object but ice and sky to rest
upon ; and even the latter was often hidden from our view
by the dense and dismal fogs which so generally prevailed.
For want of variety, the most trifling circumstance engaged
a more than ordinary share of our attention ; a passing gull,
or a mass of ice of unusual form, bn vuie objects which our
situation and circumstances magnified into ridiculous im-
portance ; and we have since often smiled to remember the
eager interest with which we regarded many insignificant
occurrences. It may well be imagined, then, how cheering
it was to turn from this scene of inanimate desolation, to
our two Httle boats in the distance, to see the moving figures
K 2
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NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
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1827, of our men winding with tlicir sledges among the luim-
W*^ mocks, and to hear once more the sound of human voices
breaking the stilhiess of this icy wilderness. In some cases
Lieutenant Ross and myself took separate routes to try the
ground, which kept us almost continually floundering among
deep snow and water. The sledges having then been brought
up as far as we had explored, we all went back for the boats ;
each boat's crew, when the road was tolerable, dragging their
own, and the officers labouring equally hard with the men.
It was thus we proceeded for nine miles out of every ten
that we travelled over ice ; for it was very rarely indeed
that we met with a surface sufficiently level and hard to
drag all our loads at one journey, and in a great many
instances, during the first fortnight, we had to make three
journies with the boats and baggage ; that is, to traverse the
same road five times over.
We halted at eleven, p.m., on the 1st, having traversed
from ten to eleven miles, and mado good, by our account,
seven and a half in a N.b.W. direction. We again set for-
Monday,2ii(i. Ward at ten, a.m., on the 2nd, the weather being calm, and
the sun oppressively warm, though with a thick fog. The
temperature in the shade was 35° at noon, and only 47° in
the sun ; but this, together with the glare from the snow,
produced so painful a sensation in most of our eyes, as to
make it necessary to halt at one, p.m., to avoid being blinded.
We therefore took advantage of this warm weather to let
il
TO UEACII THE NORTH POLE.
the men wash themselves, and mend and dry their clothes, iHsr.
. I Illy.
and then set out again at half past three. The snow was, '"^r^
however, so soft as to take us up to our knees at almost
every other step, and frequently still deeper ; so that wc
■were sometimes five minutes together in moving a single
empty boat, with all our united strength. It being impos-
sible to proceed under these circumstances, I determined,
by degrees, to fall into our night-travelling again, from which
we had of late insensibly deviated. We therefore halted
at half past five, the weather being now very clear and
warm, and many of the people's eyes beginning to fail. AN'e
did not set out again till after midnight, with the intention Tucsday.srd.
of giving the snow time to harden after so warm a day ; but
we found it still so soft as to make the travelling very
fatiguing. Our way lay at first across a number of small
loose pieces, most of which were from five to twenty yards
apart, or just suificiently separated to give us all the labour
of launching and hauling up the boats, without the advan-
tage of making any progress by water ; while we crossed, in
other instances, from mass to mass, by laying the boats over,
as bridges, by which the men and the baggage passed. By
these means, we at length reached a floe about a mile in
length, in a northern direction ; but it would be difficult to
convey an adequate idea of the labour required to traverse
it. The average depth of snow upon the level parts was
about five inches, under which lay water four or five inches
;H''r ' ■ •' :
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1827.
July.
70 NAUUATIVK OF AN ATTEMIT
deep; but the moment wc approached a hummock, the
deplli to wliich ne sank increased to tlircc feet or more,
rendering it difficult at times to obtain sufficient footing for
one leg, to enable us to extricate the other. The pools of
fresh water had now also become very large, some of them
being a quarter of a mile in length, and their depth above
our knees. Through these we were prevented taking the
sledges, for fear of wetting all our provisions ; but we pre-
ferred transporting the boats across them, notwithstanding
the severe cold of the snow-water, the bottom being harder
for the " runners " to slide upon. On this kind of road we
were, in one instance, above two hours in proceeding a
distance of one hundred yards.
^^'e halted at half past six, a.m., to dine, and to empty
our boots and wring our stockings, which, to our feelings,
was almost like putting on dry ones ; and again set out in
an hour, getting at length into a " lane " of water one mile
and a quarter long, in a N.N.E. direction. We halted for
the night at half an hour before midnight, the people being
almost exhausted with a laborious day's work, and our
distance made good to the northward not exceeding two
miles and a quarter. AVe allowed ourselves this night a
hot supper, consisting of a pint of soup per man, made of an
ounce of pemmican each, and eight or ten birds which we
had killed in the course of the last week; and this was
a luxury which jiersons thus situated could perhaps alone
1 ■ :..Pi
TO UKACII TIIK NORTH Pol.K.
71
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duly appreciate. \Vc hud scon, in the course of the day, a
few rot<j;es, a clovekie, a loom, a mallenuu'ke, and two or
three very small seals,
"NVe rose and breakfasted at nine, p.m. ; but the weather
had gradually become so inclement and thick, with snow,
sleet, and a fresh breeze from the eastward, that we could
neither Iiave seen our way, nor have avoided getting wet
through, had wc moved. "SVc, therefore, remained under
cover ; and it was as well that wc did so, for the snow soon
after changed to heavy rain, and the wind increased to a
fresh gale, which unavoidably detained us till 7. 30, vm.,
on the 4th, when we found, on setting out, that there was
nothing but loose drift-ice for us to haul over ; nor from the
highest hummock could we discover a single floe, much less
a field, towards which to direct our course. On two or three
small floe-pieces which we did cross, none of which were a
quarter of a mile in extent, we found the hummocks occur-
ring, ridge after ridge, with only fifty or sixty yards of level
ice between them. The rain liatl produced even a greater
effect than the sun, in softening the snow. Lieutenant
Eoss and myself, in performing our pioneering duty, were
frequently so beset in it, that sometimes, after trying in
vain to extricate our legs, we were obliged to sit quietly
down for a short time to rest ourselves, and then make
another attempt; and the men, in dragging the sledges,
were often under the necessity of crawling upon all-fours.
July.
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1827.
JiUy.
Thursdaj--
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to make any progress at all. Nor would any kind of snow-
shoes liavc been of the least service, but rather an incum-
brance to us, for the surface was so irregular, that they would
have thrown us down at every other step. We had hitherto
made use of the Lapland shoes, or kamoogas, for walking in,
which are excellent for dry snow ; but there being now so
much water upon the ice, Ave substituted the Esquimaux
boots, which had been made in Greenland expressly for our
use *, and which are far superior to any others for this kind
of travelling. Just before halting, at six, / ,m., on the 5th,
the ice at the margin of the floe broke, while the men w^ere
handing the provisions out of the boats ; and we narrowly
escaped the loss of. a bag of cocoa, which fell overboard,
but fortunately rested on a " tongue." The bag being made
of Mackintosh's waterproof canvas, the cocoa did not suffer
the slightest injury f. We had seen, in the course of our
last journey, a few rotges, a loom, an ivory-gull, a malle-
niucke, and a tern (Sterna Arctica). We here observed the
dip of the magnetic needle to be 82" 4'. 7, and the varia-
tion 13° 16' westerly; the latitude being Sr 45' 15", and
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* For these Ave are greatly indebted to the kindness of Lieutenant Ilolboll,
of the Danish Navy, through whose means we obtained thcni from Greenland.
•f- Of this invaluable manufacture, which consists, I believe, in applying a
solution of elastic gum, or caoutchouc, between two parts of canvas, it is
impossible to speak too highly. I know of no material which, with an equal
weight, is equally durable and water-tight. In the latter quality, indeed, it is
altogether perfect, so long as the material lasts.
'*. '
TO REACH THE NOU'.H POLE. 73
the longitude, by chronometers, 24° 23' East, by which we
found that we had been drifted considerably to the east-
ward. In this situation we tried for soundings with four
hundred fathoms of line, without reaching the bottom ; the
temperature at that depth, by Six's thermometer, was 30°,
that at the surface, at the time, being 32|", and of the air 34}\
We rose at five, p.m., the weather being clear and fine,
with a moderate breeze from the south ; no land was in
sight from the highest hummocks, nor could we perceive
any thing but broken loose ice in any direction. We hauled
across several pieces which were scarcely fit to bear the
weight of the boats, and in such places used the precaution
of dividing our baggage, so that, in case of the ice breaking
or turning over, we should not lose all at once. The farther
we proceeded, the more the ice was broken ; indeed, it was
much more so here than we had found it since first entering
the " pack." The labour required to drag the boats over the
hummocks, and from one mass to another, was so great that
we were obliged to have recourse to what seamen call a
"bowline-haul" for many minutes together; which so
exhausted the men, that it was necessary for them every now
and then to sit down and take breath. After stopping at
midnight to dine, and to obtain the meridian altitude, we
passed over a floe full of hummocks, a mile and a half in
length; but any kind of floe was relief to us after the
constant difficulty we had experienced in passing over loose
ice. Many of the hummocks were smooth regular cones,
i82r.
July.
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NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
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1827. much resembling in shape the aromatic pastiles sold by
W--' chemists: this roundness and regularity of form indicate
age, all the more recent ones being sharp and angular. We
had now for several days ceased to observe any ice covered
with mud or soil, called by the sailors "dirty ice," which
was frequently met with during the first week after our
leaving the open water. We often, however, noticed parts
of the ice, which at a distance appeared of an iron -rust
colour ; but on coming near it, and taking up some in the
hand, we could detect nothing with a magnifying glass.
After several hours of very beautiful "weather, a thick fog
Friday, 6th. came ou early on the morning of the 6th, and at five, a.m.,
we halted, having got to the end of the floe, and only made
good two miles and a half to the northward. The men were
greatly fatigued by this day's exertions, and we served an
extra ounce of bread and one of pemmican for their supper ;
an addition to the original allowance which we were fre-
quently obliged to make, after this time, to prevent our going
to bed hungry. The fog continued very thick all day ; but
being unwilling to stop on this account, we set out again
at half past six in the evening, and passed over several
small flat pieces with no great difficulty, but with much loss
of time in launching and hauling up the boats. The fog
Saturday, Still Continued very thick, and the ice of the same broken
7Ui,
kind as before ; till, towards the end of our day's journey,
w^e landed on the only really level floe we had yet met with.
•It was, however, only three quarters of a mile in length,
1
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
75
but being almost clear of snow, afforded such good travelling,
that although much fatigued at the time, we hauled the
boats, and all the baggage, across it at one journey, at the
rate of about two miles an hour, and halted at the northern
margin at live a.m., on the 7th. The prospect beyond was
still very unfavourable, and at eight in the evening, when
we again launched the boats, there was not a piece of large or
level ice to be seen in a northern direction. After an hour, we
arrived at a very difficult pass, which required aU our strength,
as well as care, . o accomplish. We had first to launch the
boats into the water over a high and rugged margin, and then
to haul them across a number of irregular and ill-connected
masses, sometimes making bridges of them for the con-
veyance of ourselves and our provisions, and once having to
cut a passage through a ridge of hummocks which lay across
our path. We were thus more than two hours in proceeding
a distance not exceeding one hundred and fifty yards.
Notwithstanding these discouraging difficulties, the men
laboured with great cheerfulness and good-will, being ani-
mated with the hope of soon reaching the more continuous
body which had been considered as composing the " main
ice" to the northward of Spitzbergen, and which Captain
Lutwidge, about the same meridian, and more than a degree
to the southward of this, describes as " one continued plain
of smooth, unbroken ice, bounded only by the horizon. *"
* Phipps's Voyage towards the North Pole, p. 60.
L 2
1827.
July.
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NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
July.
Sunday, 8th
We halted at six a.m., on the 8th, in time to avoid a great
deal of rain which fell during the day, and again proceeded
on our journey at eight in the evening, the wind being fresh
from the E.S.E., with thick wet weather. We now met
with detached ice of a still lighter kind than before, the only
floe in sight being much to the eastward of our course.
This we reached, after considerable labour, in the hope of
its leading to the northward, which it did for about one
mile, and we then came to the same kind of loose ice as
before. We observed in one place a little mud in some
small holes in the ice, being the first we had seen for a
Monday, 9th. week. On the morning of the 9th, we enjoyed the inde-
scribable comfort of two or three hours' clear dry weather,
but had scarcely hung up our wet clothes, after halting at
five, A.M., when it again came on to rain ; but as every thing
was as wet as it could be, we left them out to take their
chance. We again allowed ourselves the luxury of a hot
supper, having shot eight or nine birds since our last. The
rain continued most of the day, but we set out at half past
seven, p.m., crossing loose ice, as usual, and much of the
surface consisting of the detached vertical needles before
described. After an hour, the rain became so heavy, that
we halted to save our shirts, which were the only dry clothes
belonging to us. Soon after midnight, the rain being suc-
ceeded by one of the thickest fogs I ever saw, we again
proceeded, groping our way almost yard by yard from one
Tuesday,
10th.
'\§
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
77
small piece of ice to another, and were very fortunate in
hitting upon some with level surfaces, and also a few toler-
able-sized holes of water. At half past two we reached a
floe, which appeared at first a level and large one ; but on
landing we were much mortified to find it so covered with
immense ponds, or rather small lakes of fresh water, that to
accomplish two miles in a north direction, we were under
the necessity of walking from three to four, the water being
too deep for wading, and from two hundred yards to one-
third of a mile in length. Towards the northern margin we
came among large hummocks, having very deep snow about
them, so that this floe, which had appeared so promising,
proved very laborious travelling, obliging us, in some parts,
to make three journeys with our loads ; that is, to traverse
' the same road five times over. We halted at six, a.m.,
having made only one mile and three quarters in a N.N.W.
direction, the wind still blowing fresh from the eastward,
with a thick fog. We were in latitude 82° 3' 19", and lon-
gitude by chronometers 23° 17' E., and we found the
variation of the magnetic needle to be 13° 41', westerly.
We moved again at seven, p.m., with the weather nearly as
foggy as before, our road lying across a very hummocky
floe, on which we had considerable difficulty in getting the
boats, the ice being extremely unfavourable both for launch-
ing and hauling them up. We afterwards passed over two
or three other small floes, and crossed a lane of water a mile
1827.
July.
ii
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NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
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^827. long in an east and west direction, but not more than two
^■'Y--' hundred yards wide from north to south. After stopping
an hour at midnight to dine, we were again annoyed by a
W«^"es'iay, heavy fall of rain, a phenomenon almost as new to us in
these regions, until this summer, as it was harassing and un-
healthy. Being anxious, however, to take advantage of a
lane of water that seemed to lead northerly, we launched the
boats, and by the time that we had crossed it, which gave
us only half a mile of northing, the rain had become much
harder, and our outer clothes, bread-bags, and boats, were
thoroughly wet. To keep our shirts dry (which was the
more necessary as we had only one spare one between every
two individuals) we got under the shelter of our awnings,
and, the rain abating in half an hour, again proceeded, giving
the men a small quantity of rum and a mouthful of biscuit,
by way of refreshing them a, little in this uncomfortable con-
dition. After this we had better travelling on the ice, and
also crossed one or two larger holes of water than we had
met with for a long time, and halted, for our night's rest, at
half past seven, a.m., after nearly twelve hours hard, but not
altogether unsuccessful labour, having traversed about twelve
miles, and made good, by our account, seven and a half, in a
N.W.b.N. direction. We had gradually met with fewer
birds as we advanced to the northward ; to-day we saw only
one kittiwake, and a boatswain, {lestris parasiticus,^ The
floes now around us were heavier than any that we had
■i.
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TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
TO
*i , ithi
before passed ; perhaps about the same as those usually met
with in Baffin's Bay. The rain ceased soon after we had
halted, but was succeeded by a thick wet fog, which obliged
us, when we continued our journey, to put on our travelling
clothes in the same dripping state as when we took them
off. The wind continued fresh from the south-eastward, and
at nine, p.m., the weather suddenly cleared up, and gave us
once more the inconceivably cheering, I had almost said the
blessed sight of a blue sky, with hard well-defined white
clouds floating across it. There was not, however, much
dryness in the atmosphere, the dew point, by Daniell's
hygrometer, being 35° at nine, p.m., when the temperature
of the atmosphere was the same. We considered ourselves
fortunate in having any floes to cross, though only one or
' two exceeded a quarter of a mile in length, and all very
rugged and much covered with ponds of water ; but this
was better than the more frequent and hazardous launching
among small pieces. Halting at midnight to dine, we
obtained the sun*s altitude, which placed us in latitude
82° 11' 51". On continuing our journey, after dinner, we
still had small floe-pieces to pass over, several of which gave
us much labour, and occupied considerable time, being just
too widely separated to make bridges of the boats, so that
launching them was unavoidable. We halted at six, a.m.,
after making, by our day's exertions, only three miles and a
half of northing, and then obtained the dip of the magnetic
1827.
July.
Thursday,
12th.
■ii?i
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80
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
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1827.
July.
needle 82° 16.3, and the variation 15° 6' westerly, our
latitude at this time being 82° 14' 28", and our longitude
by chronometers 22° 4' E. Some observations for the mag-
netic intensity were also obtained at this place. This proved
a remarkably clear and fine day, with a moderate breeze from
the S.E, The thermometer was from 35° to 36° in the
shade during most of the day, and this, with a clear sky
overhead, was now absolute luxury to us. Setting out again
at seven, p.m., we crossed a small lane of water to another
floe, but this was so intersected by ponds, and by streams
running into the sea, that we had to make a very circuitous
route, some of the ponds being half a mile in length. If any-
thing could have compensated for the delay these occasioned
us, it would have been the beautiful blue colour peculiar to
these super-glacial lakes, which is certainly one of the most
pleasing tints in nature. Notwithstanding the immense quan-
tity of water still upon the ice, and which always afforded us
a pure and abundant supply of this indispensable article, we
now observed a mark round the banks of all the ponds, shew-
ing that the water was less deep in them, by several inches,
than it had been somewhat earlier in the summer; and,
indeed, from about this time, some small diminution in its
quantity began to be perceptible to ourselves. We also
encountered to-day a more than usual proportion of the
*« penknife" ice, the needles of which were fourteen inches
long, and so loose as to occasion great labour in walking and
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
81
dragging the boats over it. A parhelion, slightly tinged
with the prismatic colours, appeared on the western side of
the sun, and remained for two or three hours. At ten, p.m.,
we exchanged a troublesome floe for still more troublesome
loose ice, which kept us constantly launching and hauling
up the boats, with extreme risk to them as well as to the
provisions, and most harassing labour to the officers and
men. Still our work went on cheerfully, our hope resting
on at length meeting with something like continuous and
level ice. We halted for our resting-time at six, a.m., on the
13th, having gained only two miles and a half of northing,
over a road of about four, and this accomplished by ten hou.s
of fatiguing exertion. We saw, in the course of this journey,
besides an ivory-gull and a mallemucke, one of the very
' beautiful gulls first discovered by Lieutenant Ross at Arlag-
nuk, in our voyage of 1823, and named, in compliment to
him, Larus Rossii*. We were here in latitude, by the
noon observation, 82° 17' 10", and could find no bottom with
four hundred fathoms of line. The temperature of some
water brought up from that depth in a copper bottle con-
trived for the purpose, was 31° on coming to the surface,
and its specific gravity, when weighed at the temperature
of 41°, 1-0283. The temperature of the surface-water at the
time was 32°^, and its specific gravity only 1-0004, owing to
♦ Narrative of the Second Voyage, p. 449 ; and Dr. Richardson's Zoological
Appendix, p. 359.
M
1827.
July.
Friday,
13th.
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1827.
July.
8a
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
the intermixture of fresh water from the ice. A thermometer,
having its bulb placed upon the surface of the ice, stood at
33°, the air being 36° ; and the temperature of the streams
and pools of fresh water was 32°|. We launched the boats
at seven in the evening, the wind being moderate from the
E.S.E. with fine clear weather, and were still mortified in
finding that no improvement took place in the road over
which we had to travel ; for the ice now before us was, if
possible, more broken up and more difficult to pass over
than ever. INIuch of it was also so thin as to be extremely
dangerous for the provisions, and it was often a nervous thing
to see our whole means of existence lying on a decayed sheet,
having holes quite through it in many parts, and which the
smallest motion among the surrounding masses might have
instantly broken into pieces. There was however no choice,
except between this road, and the more rugged though safer
hummocks, which cost ten times the labour to pass over.
Mounting one of the highest of these at nine p.m., we could
discover nothing to the northward but the same broken and
irregular surface ; and we now began to doubt whether we
should at all meet with the solid fields of unbroken ice which
every account had led us to expect in a much lower latitude
than this. The weather was to-night remarkably clear, with
the most regular and beautiful mackarel sky I ever saw ; and
no land, nor any indication of it, was visible from a height of
thirty to forty feet above the level of the sea, to which ele-
( ••
4
.J
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
83
vation many of the hummocks rose. A very strong yellow
ice-blink overspread the whole northern horizon. A\''c
stopped to dine at half an hour past midnight, after more
than five hours' unceasing labour, in the course of which
time we had only accomplished a mile and a half due north,
though we had traversed from three to four, and walked at
least ten, having made three journeys a great part of the
way. AVe had launched and hauled up the boats four times,
and dragged them over twenty-five separate pieces of ice.
After dinner we continued the same kind of travelling, which
was, beyond all description, harassing to the officers and
men. In crossing from mass to mass, several of which were
separated about half the length of our sledges, the officers
were stationed at the most difficult places to see that no
precaution was omitted, which could ensure the safety of the
provisions. Only one individual was allowed to jump over
at a time, or to stand near either margin, for fear of the
weight being too great for it ; and when three or four men
had separately crossed, the sledge was cautiously drawn up
to the edge, and the word being given, the men suddenly ran
away with the ropes, so as to allow no time for its falling in,
if the ice should break. In one or two instances this day,
we were obliged to have recourse to the still more hazardous
expedient of ferrying all our provisions across a narrow pool
of water upon a small piece of ice, the situation being such
that our boats could not be thus made use of. Wherever
M 3
1827.
July.
Saturday,
lltli.
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84
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1627.
July.
the boats couUl possibly be hauled across with the provisions
in thcni, we preferred this as a safer mode of proceeding ;
but this very precaution had nearly cost us dear to-day, for
while we were thus dragging one of them along, the ice on
which she rested began to sink and then turned over on one
side, almost upsetting the boat with the provisions in her.
However, a number of the men jumped upon the ice, with great
activity, in order to restore its balance by their weight, and
having cautiously unloaded and hauled her back, we got her
over in another place. Having at length succeeded in reach-
ing a small floe, we halted at half past six, a.m., much wearied
by nearly eleven hours' exertion, by which we had only
advanced three miles and a half in a N.N.W. direction.
The wind again freshened up strong from the S.E.b.E., with
a thick fog, which shortly after changed to rain. We savr
only a single mallemucke and a bear in our last journey ; the
latter was wounded, but easily escaped our pursuit, and
this to our no small disappointment, for we began to
find our allowance of provisions too little to satisfy us, and
would gladly have added to it by a supply of this kind. We
rose at six p.m., and prepared to set out, but it rained so
hard and so incessantly that it would have been impossible
to move without a complete drenching. I had never before
seen any rain in the Polar regions to be compared to this,
which continued, without intermission, for twenty-one hours,
sometimes falling with great violence, and in large drops,
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
85
«
especially about two a.m., on the 15th. It held up a little
at five, and at six we art oul . but the rain soon recommenced,
though less heavily than before. In proceeding over the
floe on which \> c had slept, we found it alternately level and
" hummoeky," the former affording sufficiently good travel-
ling to allow us to carry all our baggage at one journey with
great ease, one boat's crew occasionally assisting the other
for a few yards together ; but the hummocks cost us im-
mense labour, nothing but a " bowline haul" being sufficient,
with all our hands, to get the boats across or between them.
At eight the rain again became heavier, and we got under
shelter of our awnings for a quarter of an hour, to keep our
shirts, and other flannel clothes, dry ; these being the only
things we now had on, which were not thoroughly wet. At
' nine we did the same, but before ten were obliged to halt
altogether, the rain coming down in torrents, and the men
being much exhausted by continued wet and cold, though
the thermometer was at 36°, which was somewhat above our
usual temperature. The wind shifted to the W.S.W. in the
afternoon, and the rain was succeeded by a thick fog, after
it had been falling for thirty hours out of the last thirty-one.
At half past seven p.m., we again pursued our journey, and
after much laborious travelling, were fortunate, considering
the fog, in hitting upon a floe which proved the longest we
had yet crossed, being three miles from south to north,
though alternately rugged and flat. From this we launched
i82r.
July.
Sunday, ISUii
tl
•■•
(>
86
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
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1827.
July.
Monday,
16th.
into a lane of watev lialf a mile long from east to west, but
which only gave us a hundred and fifty yards of northing.
We had then several other smaller pools to cross, and on one
occasion were obliged to cut a place for hauling up the boats,
the margin consisting of a tier of high and continuous hum-
mocks. In hauling one of the boats over a " tongue" of ice,
»vhere she only floated in part, her bottom-boards were
raised by the pressure against the ice below, but so strong
and elastic was their construction that she did not suffer
the slightest external injury. We frequently, during fogs,
saw a broad white fog-bow opposite the sun ; but one which
appeared to-night was strongly tinged with the prismatic
colours.
The floe on which we stopped to dine at one, a.m., on the
16th, was not more than four feet thick, and its extent half
a mile square ; and on this we had the rare advantage of
carrying all our loads at one journey. At half past six the
fog cleared away, and gave us beautiful weather for drying
our clothes, and once more the cheerful sight of the blue
sky. We halted at half past seven, after being twelve hours
on the road, having made a N.b.W. course, distance only six
miles and a quarter, though we had traversed nine miles.
The thermometer was unusually high in the shade, having
risen to 37^| ; in the sun it stood at 47° ; a blackened bulb
raised it to ST^; and the same thermometer, held against
the black painted side of the boat, rose to 58i°. This was
im
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
87
si
»g
g
lb
ist
as
during a calm; but almost the smallest breath of wind
immediately reduced them all below 40°. ^Ve saw, during
this last journey, a mallemucke and a second Ross gull;
and a couple of small flies (to us an event of ridiculous
importance) were found upon the ice. ^Ve here observed
the variation of the magnetic needle to be 17° 28' westerly,
being in latitude, by observation, 82" 26' 44" (or two miles
to the southward of our reckoning), and in longitude by
chronometers 20° 32' 13" East.
We again pursued our Avay at seven in the evening,
having the unusual comfort of putting on dry stockings,
and the no less rare luxury of delightfully pleasant weather,
the wind being moderate from the S.S.E. It was so warm
in the sun, though the temperature in the shade was only
'35°, that the tar was running out of the scams of the boats ;
and a blackened bulb held against the paint-^vork raised the
thermometer to 72°. We were to-day also unusually fortu-
nate in meeting with some open water, one lane of which
gave us, though by a very crooked course, a mile and a half
of northing, besides other smaller ones. The sea-water, in
one of the largest of these lanes, was at the temperature of
34°, being almost the only instance I remember of such an
occurrence in a sea thus loaded with ice, and at so short a
distance from it. We now no longer saw any birds in the
"holes" of water, as we had done farther south. From a
hummock forty feet above the level of the sea, and with a
1827.
JiUy.
1$\
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1827.
July.
88
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
. ).
very clear and transjjarent atmosphere, nothing but ice,
with a few small patches of water, could be discerned in any
direction. The floes were larger to-day, and the ice, upon
the whole, of heavier dimensions than any we had yet met
with. The general thickness of the floes, however, did not
exceed nine or ten feet, which is not more than the usual
thickness of those in Baffin's Bay and Hudson's Strait;
while it is a great deal less than the ordinary dimensions of
the ice about Melville Peninsula, and not half the thickness
of that towards the western extremity of Melville Island,
though these places lie from eight to twenty degrees south
of our present latitude. We found the snow this night
very soft, in consequence of the warmth of the weather and
the late heavy rains ; making the travelling extremely labo-
rious. In fact, the upper surface of the heavier floes is all
snow ; so that every warm day, even to the very close of the
summer, softens it to the depth of several inches. We also
met to-night with a great deal more of the " penknife " ice,
the margins of some of the floes exhibiting a section of it
having the needles above eighteen inches in length, and all
quite loose and easily detached by the hand. I may also
here mention another peculiar kind of ice, consisting of
oblong slabs, which appear to have been imbedded by heavy
pressure in the surface of the floe, and have at length, by
alternate thawing and freezing, become a part of it. These
slabs, still retaining their angular shape, and assuming a
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE. 89
smoothly polished and handsome surface, appear not unlike
the lumps of feldspar in porphyry, on which account we
called it " porphyritic " ice. For one or two nights past
we had observed the clouds near and opposite to the sun
to be tinged with a little red towards midnight ; the sun
having probably been too high before this period.
The 17th of July being one of the days on which the
Eoyal Society of Edinburgh have proposed to institute a
series of simultaneous meteorological observations, we com-
menced an hourly register of every phenomenon which
came under our notice, and which our instruments and other
circumstances would permit, and continued most of them
throughout the day. We this morning crossed a floe three
miles in length, which was equal in extent to any we had
seen: the thickness of this, as measured in a large hole
near the middle of it, was only from five to six feet. We
halted at seven, a.m., after a long and fatiguing journey,
our distance made good in a north direction being six miles
and a half. Being more fatigued than usual, and the last
week having produced us no birds for supper, we allowed
ourselves a mess of hot cocoa, which seemed quite a cordial
to us. Our latitude, observed at noon, was 82° 32' 10", being
more than a mile to the southward of the reckoning, though
the wind had been constantly from that quart ^r during the
twenty-four hours. We had seen, in our last journey, only
one ivory-gull, one mallemucke, and another Koss gull.
N
13-27.
July.
Tuesday,
irth.
1
■m.
I 'm
TS.!
a -
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90
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1S27.
July.
I.'
^Vcclncsday,
ISth.
i. •■.!. I
The 17th proved one of the warmest and most pleasant
days to the feelings that we had during the whole time we
were iijion the ice; the thermometer in the shade being
from 36° to 40° for several hours, and in the sun from
42° to 5 r. It produced, however, as usual, the serious dis-
advantage of rendering the snow very soft, and increasing
the fatigue of travelling. Besides this, on setting out at
eight, P.M., we found our road to lie over some of the most
broken ice we had ever yet encountered, obliging us to
make bridge after bridge with the boats almost every thirty
or forty yards, for three hours together, in which time we
scarcely made half a mile of northing. The small floe-piece
which we at length reached was a very rugged one, and the
sun was so bright as to render the glare of the snow pain-
fully oppressive to the eyes. The latitude, observed at
midnight, was 82° 32' 15", or nearly the same as at noon,
though we had certainly walked one mile to the northward.
After midnight the road became, if possible, worse, and
the prospect to the northward more discouraging than
before ; nothing but loose and very small pieces of ice being
in sight, over which the boats were dragged almost entirely
by a "standing-pull." When we halted to dine, at two
A.M. on the 18th, we were not sorry to see a fog coming on,
our eyes having begun to fail for some time. Setting out
again in an hour, we found no improvement in the travel-
ling ; but being the more anxious to get past this harassing
'ill
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TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
91
kind of road, we continued our work till half past eight,
when we reached a small floe-picce, the only one in sight,
and there halted for the night. Thus, after more than
eleven hours' actual labour, requiring, for the most part, our
whole strength to be exerted, we had travelled over a space
not exceeding four miles, of which only two were made good
in a N.N.W. direction. The men were so exhausted with
their day's work, that it was absolutely necessary to give
them something hot for supper, and we again served a little
cocoa for that purpose. They were also put into good
spirits by our having killed a small seal, which, the following
night, gave us an excellent supper. The meat of these
young animals is tender, and free from oiliness ; but it cer-
tainly has a smell and a look which would not have been
agreeable to any but very hungry people like ourselves.
We also considered it a great prize, on account of its blub-
ber, which gave us fuel sufficient for cooking six hot messes
for our whole party, though the animal only weighed thirty
pounds in the whole. These animals, of which we usually
saw two or three in almost every day's journey, are, when
very small, best procured by shooting them in the head
with small shot ; but, if quite killed at once, they are apt to
sink immediately and be lost. The temperature of this
seal was 98°, immediately after death.
The fog dispersing before noon, we had another clear and
fine day, but, as usual, paid dear for this comfort by the
N 2
1827.
July.
i
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July.
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NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
increased softness of the snow and the oppressive glare
reflected from it. Setting out at half past seven in the
evening, we found the sun more distressing to the eyes than
we had ever yet had it, bidding defiance to our crape veils
and wire-gauze eye-shades * ; but a more effectual screen
was afforded by the sun becoming clouded about nine, p.m.
Our way still lay over small loose masses, to which we were
now so accustomed as scarcely to expect any other ; for it
was evident enough that we "were not improving in this
respect as we advanced northwards. At half past nine we
came to a very difficult crossing among the loose ice, which,
however, we were encouraged to attempt by seeing a floe of
some magnitude beyond it. We had to convey the sledges
and provisions one way, and to haul the boats over by
another. One of the masses over which the boats came,
began to roll about while one of them was upon it, giving
us reason to apprehend its upsetting, which must have been
attended with some very serious consequence ; fortunately,
however, it retained its equilibrium long enough to allow
us to get the boat past it in safety, not without several of
the men falling overboard in consequence of the long jumps
we had to make, and the edges breaking with their weight.
Towards midnight we had some smart showers of rain,
Thursday, with dry clear intervals between them, just as on an April
19th.
* We found the best preservative against this glare to be a pair of spectacles,
having the glass of a bluish-green colour, and with side-screens to them.
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
93
day in England. This kind of weather, which continued
for several hours, harassed the men very much, as it was
too warm for working with their jackets on, and they wetted
their shirt-sleeves when they took them off. I think the
blue sky between the clouds this night was as transparent,
and almost of as deep a blue as I ever saw it. We had
nearly incurred a second disaster in launching one of the
boats from an awkward-shaped mass, which brought her
gunwale close to the water, and there kept her for a quarter
of an hour in a very dangerous situation, without our being
able to move her one way or the other, while the loose ice
was in motion about us at the time. At length, however,
we contrived to reach the floe, after consuming the best part
of the day's journey in effecting it ; and when we halted to
rest at half past seven a.m., twelve hours' labour had not
been repaid by more than three miles and a half gained, on
a N.N.E. course.
It is remarkable that we had hitherto been so much fa-
voured by the wind, that only a single northerly one, and
that very moderate, and of short duration, appears upon
our journals up to this day, when a breeze sprung up from
that quarter, accompanied by a thick fog. Though this
wind appeared to be the means of opening several lanes
of water, of which we gladly took advantage when we set
out at eight p.m., yet we were aware that any such effect
could only be produced by the ice drifting to the southward,
1827,
July.
i
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NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEJIPT
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1827.
July,
Friday,
20th.
and would, therefore, have willingly dispensed with this ap-
parent facility in proceeding. We found the temperature
of the sea-Avater, in a large lane, to be 34°, and once as high
as 34°i, which, as before remarked, is very unusual in the
middle of a large body of ice. We hauled over one very
heavy floe, about half a mile in length, of which the thickness
was from fifteen to twenty feet, with huge hummocks at the
margin, indicating a tremendous pressure at some time or
other. On the morning of the 20th, we came to a good
deal of ice, which formed a striking contrast with the other,
being composed of flat bay-floes, not three feet thic!\., which
would have afforded us good travelling, had they not jecentlv
been broken into small pieces, obliging us to launch fre-
quently from one to another. These floes had been the
product of the last winter only, having probably been formed
in some of the interstices left between the larger bodies ; and,
from what we saw of them, there could be little doubt of
their being all dissolved before the next autumnal frost.
'\^'e halted at seven a.m., having, by our reckoning, accom-
plished six miles and a half in a N.N.W. direction, the
distance traversed being ten miles and a half. It may,
therefore, be imagined how great was our mortification in
finding that our latitude, by observation at noon, was only
82° 36' 52" t being less than Jive miles to the northward of
our place at noon on the 17th, since which time we had
certainly travelled twelve in that direction.
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
•TiUv.
Under these discouraging circumstances, which we ( e-
fuUy avoided making known to the men, we pursued <nir
journey at eight p.m., the wind blowing from the N.AV.b.N.,
with overcast but clear weather. A little small snow fell
during the night, composed of very minute irregular needles.
"We were, as usual, much annoyed by the numerous loose
pieces over which we had to pass, but a large proportion of
these being composed of flat bay-ice, we made tolerable pro-
gress. At eleven p.m., we could see nothing before us but
this thin ice, much of which was not fit to bear the weight
of our boats and provisions, and more caution than ever was
requisite in selecting the route by which we were to pass.
At five A.M., on the 21st, having gone ahead, as usual, upon Saturday,
a bay-floe, to search for the best road, I heard a more than
ordinary noise and bustle among the people who were bring-
ing up the boats behind. On returning to them, I found
that we had narrowly, and most providentally, escaped a
serious calamity ; the floe having broken under the weight of
the boats and sledges, and the latter having nearly been
lost through the ice. Some of the men went completely
through, and one of them was only held up by his drag-
belt being attached to a sledge which happened to be on
firmer ice. Fortunately the bread had, by way of security,
been kept in the boats, or this additional weight would
undoubtedly have sunk the sledges, and probably some of
the men with them. As it was, we happily escaped, though
Mst.
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1927.
July.
90 NAUU.MIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
wc hardly knew how, witli n good deal of wetting ; and cau-
tiously approaching the boats, drew them to a stronger part
of the ice, after which wc continued our journey till half
past six A.M., when wc halted to rest, having travelled about
seven miles N.N. W. Wc here found the dip of the magne-
tic needle to be 82° 21.8, and the variation 19° 5' westerly,
our longitude by chronometers being 19° 52' East, and the
latitude 82° 39' 10', being only two miles and a quarter to
the northward of the preceding day's observation, or four
miles and a half to the southward of our reckoning.
Our sportsmen had the good fortune to kill another seal
to-day, rather larger than the first, which again proved a
most welcome addition to our provisions and fuel. Indeed,
after this supply of the latter, we were enabled to allow
ourselves every night a pint of warm water for supper, each
man making his own soup from such a portion of his bread
and pemmican as he could save from dinner. Setting out
again at seven in the evening, we were not sorry to find the
weather quite calm, which sailors account " half a fair wind ;**
for it was now evident that nothing but a southerly breeze
could enable us to make any tolerable progress, or to regain
what we had lately lost. The weather was warm and plea-
sant, though the thermometer was only 35°. At half past
eight we observed a fog-bank rising to the southward, and
another equally fast to the north. While we were anxiously
watching to see which would prevail, that from the south
:J
«I
TO REACH TIIK NORTH I'OLE.
97
first came over us, with a light air from that (iiiartcr ; this,
however, was of short duration, the weather again becoming
calm and perfectly clear in an hour afterwards. A\'e ob-
served this night, and only on three or four other occasions,
the most brilliant prismatic colours imaginable reflected from
the snow crystals on the ice, the tints being principally the
red, orange, green, and violet. This phenomenon, which
occurred when the sun was low, (aiul, I suppose, only with
crystals of a peculiar form,) is always secni, of course, between
the sun and the observer, and the reflecting surfaces cover
a space which assumes this kind of semi-elliptical
form, a being next the eye. It becomes more dis-
tant and less distinct' as the sun rises, and is then
altogether lost. This beautiful natural ap}x\irance may
possibly be familiar to many persons, but as it was new to
us, I have described it just as it occurred.
Our travelling to-night was the very best we had during
this excursion, for though we had to launch and haul up the
boats frequently, an operation which, under the most favour-
able circumstances, necessarily occupies much time, yet the
floes being large and tolerably level, and some good lanes of
water occurring, we made, according to the most moderate
calculation, between ten and eleven miles in a N.N.E.
direction, and traversed a distance of about seventeen. AVe
halted at a quarter past eight, a.m., after more than twelve
hours' actual travelling, by which the people were extremely
o
i8.'r.
.Inly.
Sundav,
I
i||::i
;i .5 ■ I
08
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEINIPT
July.
fjiiijjjutHl ; but ^vliilc our work seemed to be repaid by any-
thing like iH-ogress, the men laboured >vitb great cbeerlulness
to tlie utmost of tlieir strength. A sohtary rotgc, two small
seals, and a fish twelve inches long, (of which wc had before
noticed one or two,) were the only living creatiu'cs seen
to-day, notwithstanding the unusual extent of the open water.
The ice over Avhich we had travelled was by far the largest
and heaviest wc met with during our whole journey :
this, indeed, was the only occasion on which wc saw anything
answering, in the slightest degree, to the descriptions given
of the main ice. 'I'he largest Hoe was from two and a half to
three miles square, and in some places the thickness of the
ice was from 15 to 20 feet. Still these were not " fields";
for in no one instance had wc any difficulty in seeing the
margin of them in more directions than one, by mounting a
toUn-ably high hununock ; and from a mutih less elevation
than that of a ship's masthead, the whole extent and form
of such floes would have been very easily discernible. How-
ever, it was a satisfaction to observe that the ice had cer-
tainly improved ; and wc now ventured to hope that, for the
short time mJ we could still pursue our outward journey,
our progress would be more commensurate with our exer-
tions than it had hitherto proved. In proportion, then, to
the hopes wc had begun to entertain, was our disappoint-
ment in finding, at noon, that wc were in latitude 82° 43' 5 ",
or not quite four miles to the northward of yesterday's
TO RKACII THE NORTH POLE.
yy
obsorvatioii, instciul of the ten or eleven which wc had tra-
velled ! However, we determined to continue to the last
our utmost exertions, though we could never once encourage
the men by assuring them of our making good progress, and,
setting out at seven in the evening, soon found that our
hope of having permanently reached better ice was not to
be realized ; for the iloe on which we slept was so full of
hunnnocks, that it occupied us just six hours to cross it, the
distance in a straight line not exceeding two miles and a half
At niidnight on the ;:?2d, we had a good observa^ ion in latitude
82° 43' 32", being, as usual, the mean of two observers. iVfter
this, our road once more consisted of small rugged masses,
and little pools of water, re(piiring many launches. In
addition to these impediments, the wind, which hud been from
the AV.N.AV. at our setting out, Jigain shifted to north, and
freshened up considerably. Wc halted at seven, a.m., after
a laborious day's work, and, I must confess, a disheartening
one to those who knew to how little effect we were stru":-
gling ; which, however, the men did not, though they often
laughingly remarked that " we were a long time getting to
this 83° !" IJeing anxious to make up, in some measure, for
the drift which the present northerly wind was, in all pro-
bability, occasioning, we rose earlier than usual, and set off
at half past four in the evening. At half past five, p.m., we
witnessed a very beautiful natural phenomenon. A broad
white fog-bow first appeared opposite the sun, as was very
2
.Inly.
Mniulay,
•Jill.
hmi
li' I
J
<{■■■•:
100
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
July.
Tuesday,
24 th.
commonly the case; presently it became strongly tinged
with the prismatic colours, and soon afterwards no less than
five other complete arches were formed within the main
bow, the interior ones being gradually narrower than those
without, but the whole of them beautifully coloured. The
larger bow, and the one next witliin it, had the red on the
outer or upper part of the circle, the others on the inner
side. Lieutenant Eoss measured the altitude of the outer
arch, which was 20° 45' in the centre, its extent at the
horizon 72°^, the altitude of the sun, which was bright at
the time, being 20° 40'. The fog was quite wet, while the
smaller bows were visible, which was only for about twenty
minutes ; though the large one remained, as usual, for hours
together. We were now once more annoyed by a quantity
of br-^ken ice, so thin as to require increased caution in
trustii. J our loads upon it ; indeed, we passed, during this
night, some of the lightest ice we had yet seen. Several of
us began to feel, in our eyes, the bad effects of having set
out somewhat earlier in the day than usual. ]My own were
so painful with having strained them in looking out for the
road, that I was unable any longer to see my way, and was
therefore obliged, for a time, to give up the pioneering duty
to Lieutenant Boss.
^Ve halted at a quarter past three on the morning of the
24th, having made four miles and a half N.N.E., over a road
of about seven and a half, most of which we traversed, as
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
101
usual, tliree times. The only notice of animal life occurring
in our journals in the course of this day's travelling, consists
in our having " heard a rotge " ! The ^vincl continued fresh
from the northward, with small snow, of which about two
inches fell in twenty-four hours. We moved again at four,
P.M., over a difficult road composed of small and rugged ice.
Lieutenant Ross, in exerting himself to drag his boat along,
received a severe squeeze between her gunwale and a hum-
mock of ice, which gave Mr. Beverly reason to apprehend
at first, from the numbness and sickness which ensued, that
his spine might be affected ; but happily no such bad con-
sequences followed this accident. So small was the ice now
around us, that we were obliged to halt for the night at
two, A.M., on the 25th, being iqion the only piece in sight,
in any direction, on which we could venture to trust the
boats while we rested. Such was the ice in the latitude of
82°,x ! A\^e had travelled, during this journey, two miles
and three-quarters N.iE., and saw but one mallemuckc and
one Ross gull in the course of it.
The wind had now got round to the AV.N.W., with raw
foggy weather, and continued to blow fresh all day. Snow
came on soon after our halting, and about two inches had
fallen when we moved again at half past four p.m. We
continued our journey, in this inclement weather, for three
hours, hauling from piece to piece, and not making more
than three quarters of a mile progress, till our clothes and
]S2r.
July,
Weilnosdav,
i':*'
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102
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
f
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■;:&
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1827.
July.
Thursday,
2GUi.
.3 ' .««'■
■i I ■n\.
bread-bags had become very wet, and the snow fell so thick
that Me could no longer see our way. It was, therefore,
necessary to halt, which we did at half past seven, putting
the awnings over the boats, changing our wet clothes, and
giving the men employment for the mere sake of occupying
their minds. ^\e were housed just in good time ; for the
wind soon after freshened to a gale at W.N.W., with sleet
and rain, and a most inclement night succeeded. The
weather improving to^vards noon on the 26th, we obtained
the meridian altitude of the sun, by which we found our-
selves in latitude 82° 40' 23" ; so that, since our last obser-
vation (at midnight on the 22d), we had lost by drift no
less than thirteen miles and a half; for we were now more
than three miles to the southward of that observation,
though we had certainly travelled between ten and eleven
due north in this interval ! Again, we were but one mile
to the north of our place at noon on the 21st, though we
had estimated our distance made good at twenty-three
miles. Thus it appeared that, for the last five days, we had
been struggling against a southerly drift exceeding four
miles per day.
It had, for some time past, been too evident that the
nature of the ice with which we had to contend was such,
and its drift to the southward, especially with a northerly
wind, so great, as to put beyond our reach any thing but
a very moderate share of success in travelling to the north-
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
103
"ward. Still, however, wc had been anxious to reach the
highest latitude which our means would allow, and, with
this view, although our whole object had long become
unattainable, had pushed on to the northw^ard for thirty-five
days, or until half our resources were expended, and the
middle of our season arrived. For the last few days, the
eighty-third parallel was the limit to which we had ventured
to extend our hopes ; but even this expectation had become
considerably weakened since the setting in of the last
northerly w^ind, which continued to drive us to the south-
ward, during the necessary hours of rest, nearly as much as
we could gain by eleven or twelve hours of daily labour.
Had our success been at all proportionate to our exertions,
it was my full intention to have proceeded a few days be} ond
the middle of the period for which -sve were provided,
trusting to the resources we expected to find at Table Island.
But this was so far from being the case, that I could not
but consider it as incurring useless fatigue to the officers
and men, and unnecessary wear and tear for the boats, to
persevere any longer in the attempt. I determined, there-
fore, on giving the people one entire day's rest, which they
very much needed, and time to wash and mend their clothes,
while the officers w^re occupied in making all the observa-
tions which might be interesting in this latitude ; and then
to set out on our return on the following day. Having
communicated my intentions to the people, who were all
1827.
July.
m
r
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Hit'
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104
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827,
July.
I
I
&I
much (lisappointed in finding how little their labours had
effected, we set about our respective occupations, and were
much favoured by a remarkably fine day.
The dip of the magnetic needle was here 82° 21.6, and
the variation 18° 10' westerly, our latitude being 82° 40' 23",
and our longitude 19° 25' East of Greenwich. ' The high-
est latitude we reached was probably at seven, a.m., on the
23rd, when, after the midnight observation, we travelled,
by our account, something more than a mile and a half,
which would carry us a little beyond 82" 45'. Some obser-
vations for the magnetic intensity were obtained at this
station. We here found no bottom with five hundred
fathoms of line ; the specific gravity of some water brought
up from that depth was 1-0340, being at the temperature of
37° when weighed. A Six's thermometer attached to the
lead failed to indicate the temperature below, owing to the
mercury rising past the index. The sea-water from the
surface was, as usual near the ice in the summer time, so
nearly fresh as to require only three grains to be added to
the hydrometer ; and at six fathoms below the surface it
was 1*0225, at temperature 37°. At the extreme jioint of our
journey, our distance from the Hecla was only 172 miles in
a S. 8° W. direction. To accomplish this distance we had
traversed, by our reckoning, two hundred and ninety-two
miles, of which about one hundred were performed by water,
previously to our entering the ice. As we travelled by far
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
108
the greater part of our distance on the ice three, and not
unfrequently five times over, we may safely nudtiply the
length of the road by two and a half; so that our whole
distance, on a very moderate calculation, amounted to five
hundred and eighty geographical, or six hundred and sixty-
eight statute miles, being nearly sufficient to have reached
the Pole in a direct line. Up to this period we had been
particularly fortunate in the preservation of our health;
neither sickness nor casualties having occurred among us,
with the exception of the trifling accidents already men-
tioned, a few bowel complaints which were soon removed
by care, and some rather troublesome cases of chilblains
arising from our constant exposure to wet and cold.
Our day of rest proved one of the warmest and most
pleasant to the feelings we had yet had upon the ice, though
the thermometer was only from 31° to 36° in the shade, and
37° in the sun, with occasional fog ; but to persons living
constantly in the open air, calm and tolerably dry weather
affords absolute enjoyment, especially by contrast with what
we had lately experienced. Our ensigns and pendants were
displayed during the day; and sincerely as we regretted
not having been able to hoist the British flag in the highest
latitude to which we had aspired, we shall perhaps be
excused in having felt some little pride in being the bearers
of it to a parallel considerably beyond that mentioned in
any other well- authenticated record.
is2r.
July.
Friday,
•jrth.
.it
,1
\}
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14
ii ■■
106
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEIMPT
1827.
July.
:i::i
1 !
Srifiinlav,
28tli. '
During some intervals of very clear weather, we could
perceive nothing like land in any direction from our present
situation, and a strong yellow ice-blink always overspread
the northern horizon. At three a.m., on the 27th, we ob-
served a phenomenon resembling that mentioned on the
23rd, but much less perfect and distinct, three smaller fog-
bows at times appearing within a large one, the legs of the
arches being distinctly coloured as before. The sun's alti-
tude at this time was 12°;^, that of the centre of the outer
arch 28°, and its extent at the horizon 77°^. At 4. 30, p.m., we
set out on our return to the southward, and I can safely say
that, dreary and cheerless as were the scenes we were about
to leave, we never turned homewards with so little satisfaction
as on this occasion. To afford a chance of determining the
general set of the current from this latitude, we left upon
a hummock of ice a paper, sewn up in a water-proof canvas
b.n.g, and then inclosed in a water-tight tin cannister, giving
an account of the place where it was deposited, and request-
ing any person who should find it, to send it to the Secre-
tary of the Admiralty. The wind sprung up from the S.E.,
and, as usual with any change of wind, opened a few holes
among the ice, which assisted us a little ; but, notwithstand-
ing this, so unfavourable was the ice for travelling, that,
when we halted at three a.m., on the 28th, we had only
made three miles and a quarter of southing. The wind
then gradually shifted to the N.E. and freshened up, with
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
lOT
heavy snow, which continued to fall during the whole day.
Nothing worthy of particular notice occurred on this and
the following day, on each of which we travelled eleven
hours, finding the water somewhat more open and the floes
less rugged than usual. Two of these were from two to
three miles in length, and in one instance the surface was
sufficiently level to allow us to drag the boats for three
quarters of a mile, with the sledges in tow. Towards the
end of our journey on the morning of the 30th, we came to
an extensive collection of light bay-ice, such as we had
passed on our outward journey, only that it was now broken
into much smaller pieces. It was probably, indeed, the
same ice, as we saw our old tracks on some of the larger
floes. Our latitude, observed at noon, was 82° 20' 37", or
t twelve miles and a half to the southward of the preceding
day's observation, though we had travelled only seven by
our account ; so that the drift of the ice had assisted us in
gaining five miles and a half in that interval.
Setting out to continue our journey at five p.m., we could
discover nothing from a high hummock but the kind of
bay-ice before noticed, except the floe on which we had
slept. We were therefore obliged to go along the margin
of this floe, a long way out of our road to the south-eastward,
to avoid the danger as well as labour of crossing it, and at
length discovered some more secure ice beyond it, though
still in small detached pieces. We saw to-day a great many
r 2
1527.
July.
Siimlay,
•J'Jth.
Monday,
30th.
'.'
I';
i
i I'
108
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMIT
' i
■•'■l^
' . . •'.
'■|:
1 '
'.-■ ■■■
t
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1
.1
1827.
July,
small seals, and wounded several, but could not get them,
though we tried as hard as hungry people could do. The
wind had now backed to the north, and still blew fresh ;
towards midnight it veered to the N.W., with small snow.
The travelling was very laborious, but we were obliged to
go on, till we could get to a secure floe for resting upon,
Tuesday, which wc could not effect till half past four on the 31st,
when, in eleven hours and a half, we had not made more
than two miles and a quarter of southing. However, we
had the satisfaction, which was denied us on our outward
journey, of feeling confident that we should keep all that
we gained, and probably make a good deal more ; which, in-
deed, proved to be the case, for at noon we found our latitude
by observation to be 82° 14' 25", or four miles to the south-
ward of the reckoning. The variation of the magnetic
needle observed here was 22° 23' 16" westerly, the longitude
being 17° 18' 19" E., showing an increase in that phenome-
non in going westward, in this as well as in lower latitudes.
Our next day's journey, which we commenced at 6. 30,
P.M., was one of the most laborious we had yet experienced,
the ice being composed of loose rugged pieces, very danger-
ous as well as difficult to pass over with the provisions, and
requiring a " bowline-haul " with the boats during a great
part of the journey. We halted at five, a.m., on the 1st of
August, the officers and men being quite knocked up, and
having made by our account only two miles of southing,
Aujiiist.
Wednesday,
1st.
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
109
1827.
Aiii:u»t.
over a road not less than five in length. Heavy rain
prevented our setting out again till eight in the evening,
when the weather cleared up, the wind now blowing fresh
from the ^V. S.W. "We had, as usual, a great quantity of
loose ice to pass through, or over, before wc could get to
anything like a floe. As we came along, we had seen some
recent bear-tracks, and soon after discovered Bruin himself.
Halting the boats, and concealing the people behind them,
we drew him almost within gun-shot ; but after making
a great many traverses behind some hummocks, and even
mounting one of them to examine us more narrowly, he
set off and escaped — I must say, to our grievous disap-
pointment ; for we had already, by anticipation, consigned
a tolerable portion of his flesh to our cooking kettle, over
a fire of his own blubber.
In the course of this day's journey we met with a quantity Tinnsday,
of snow% tinged, to the depth of several inches, with some
red colouring matter, of which a portion was preserved in a
bottle for future examination. This circumstance recalled
to our recollection our having frequently before, in the
course of this journey, remarked that the loaded sledges, in
passing over hard snow, left upon it a light rose-coloured
tint, which at the time we attributed to the colouring mat-
ter being pressed out of the birch of which they were made.
To-day, however, we observed that the runners of the boats,
and even our own footsteps, exhibited the same appearance ;
.'ml.
m
'i'N
110
NAUUATIVE OF AN ATTKMl'T
1927.
Auirust.
Thursday,
ad.
■1^1
and on watchin«5 it move narrowly afterwards, we foiuid tlic
same effect to be produced, in a greater or less degree, l)y
heavy pressure, on almost all the ice over which we passed,
though a niagnifying-glass could detect nothing to give it
this tinge. The colour of the red snow which we bottled,
and which only occurred in two or three spots, appeared
somewhat different from this, being rather of a salmon than
a rose colour, but both were so striking as to be the subject
of constant remark. Halting at seven, a.m., after making
only three miles and a half of southing, we observed the
variation of the magnetic needle to be 20° 46' 54" westerly,
being in latitude 82° 0', and longitude 17° 45' 33" East. A
fog, which prevailed during most of the day, cleared away
soon after our setting out, at eight in the evening, and we
enjoyed, during the night, some of the most beautiful wea-
ther that we experienced during our whole excursion, the
wind being ligh'; from the S.W. The temperature of the
air at midnight did not exceed 31°^ in the sun, and yet on
the north side of the hummocks the water was dropping
from the ice. The small ponds of fresh water on the ice
were frozen, but there was little or no young ice, even in
the smallest pools, upon the sea. We saw some seals, and
five or six birds, among the rest two Ross gulls, during this
journey. Halting at seven, a.m., on the third, after launch-
ing and hauling up the boats a great number of times, we had
not only the comfort of drying all our wet clothes, but were
TO UKACII THK NOUTII POI.F,.
Ill
even able to wash ninny of our woollen tilings, wliicli dilod
in a few hours. The lutitudi* observed at Jioon was 8;2" 1' 18",
or twelve niiles and half to the southward vf our place on
the 3ist, which was about three more than our lo^ ^ave,
though there had been southing in the wind during the
whole interval.
'\Vc proceeded on our journey southward at eight, p.m.,
and were again favoured with a clear and beautiful night,
though the travelling was as slow and laborious as ever, there
being scarcely a tolerable floe lying in our road. Almost
the only one over which we passed was so intersected by
deep ponds and water-courses, that, although it was in other
respects level, we were obliged to walk nearly t>vo miles to
gain one of southing. The water was again dropping from
the sunny side of the hummocks about midnight, the ther-
mometer in the shade being 29°l„ and in the sun 30". The
temperature of the sea- water was 32" i. The sun now be-
came so much lower at night, that we were seldom annoyed
by the glare from the snow. It was also a very comfortable
change to those who had to look out for the road, to have
the sun behind us, instead of facing it, as on our outward
journey. We stopped to rest at a quarter past six, a.m.,
after accomplishing three miles in a south direction, over a
troublesome road of nearly twice that length. It was almost
calm, and to our feelings oppressively warm during the day,
the thermometer within the boats rising as liigli as 60 ,
Ift27.
A\iL,'Ust.
Siiturday,
-Ith.
■jh:
i' I
112
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1S27.
August.
-f
Sunday,
5th.'
! i':
V hicli put our fur dresses nearly " out of commission,"
though the mercury exposed to the sun outside did not rise
above 39°. Pursuing our journey at eight, p.m., we paid, as
usual, for this comfort, by the extreme softness of the snow.
The upper crust would sometimes support a man's weight
for a short time, and then suddenly let him down two or
three feet, so that we could never make sure of our footing
for two steps together. We saw patches of the red snow in
two or three different places, and always near the margin of
a floe. The weather continued beautifully clear, with a
light air from the eastward. The thermometer at midnight
was 29°g in the shade, and 32° in the sun. No young ice
appeared upon the sea, nor upon the larger ponds upon the
ice, but the small ones were quite frozen over. For several
hours after midnight we remarked to the southward, for the
first time since we had entered the ice, a great deal of that
ni)pearance which is called by our Greenland sailors the
" tree-ing" of ice. It consists in the ice being apparently
raised in the horizon by refraction ; sometimes so consider-
ably, as it was in the present instance, as to resemble a per-
pendicular wall of some height above the general level. It
is usually considered an indication of open water in that
quarter, though I believe it is by no means an infallible one.
However, on this occasion we were willing to flatter ourselves
that the popular notion might be the right one, as indeed it
subsequently proved to be, though we scarcely dared to hope
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
113
that we could as yet be very near the open water to the
southward. The temperature of tlie sea in a large hole of
water was 33°^, which is unusually high in a sea thus in-
cumbered with ice. The floes were larger to-day than any
we had seen for some time ; and one over which we passed
was considered to be from two to three miles in length,
though not in the direction of our course. We halted on
another at seven, a.m., and observed at noon in latitude
Sr 54' 47", which agreed very well with our reckoning, not-
withstanding the southing in the winds for some days past.
The temperature of the air in the sliade at noon was 35°,
and in the sun as high as 42°. We moved again at eight,
P.M., travelling over floes of tolerable size, but so covered
with hummocks, water, and snow, that our progress was but
, slow. Several of the men were also suffering much at this
time from chilblains, which, from the constant wet and cold,
as well as the irritation in walking, became serious sores,
keeping them quite lame. With many of our people, also,
the epidermis, or scarf-skin, peeled off* in large flakes, not
merely in the face and hands, which were exposed to the
action of the sun and the weather, but in every other part
of the body ; this, however, was attended with no pain, nor
with much inconvenience.
One variety in our monotonous mode of travelling was
afforded this day by our rowing across a lake of fresh water
in the boats, in order to avoid passing some heavy hum-
Q
1827.
Aiic;ust.
■|.!'i
'I'll
11
114
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
August.
t
7th.
kf
y-i
1
1
i 1
1 ■
[
mocks. It was a quarter of a mile long, and varied in depth
from two to four feet, which, together with an island that
happened to be in the middle of it, the rugged ice by which
it was bounded, and the beautiful blue of the water, gave it
a singular and picturesque appearance. We halted at a
Monday, quarter past six, a.m., on the 6th, after making three miles of
6th.
southing. A thick wet fog prevailed during the day, and
the breeze freshened from the S.E.b.E. We again proceeded
Tuesday, at eight P.M., and travelling till half past six on the follow-
ing morning, had accomplished only three miles of southing
over a difficult road of five in length. Some small rain fell
during the night, but we were fortunate in getting housed
before it came down more heavily, which it did the whole
day. A fat she-bear crossed over a lane of water to visit us,
and approaching the boats within twenty yards was killed
by Lieutenant Eoss. The scene which followed was laugh-
able, even to us who participated in it. Before the animal
had done biting the snow, one of the men was alongside
of him with an open knife, and being asked what he was
about to do, replied that he was going to cut out his heart
and liver to put into the pot, which happened to be then
boiling for our supper. In short, before the bear had been
dead an hour, all hands of us were employed, to our great
satisfliction, in discussing the merits, not only of the said
heart and liver, but a pound per man of the flesh ; besides
which, some or other of the men were constantly frying steaks,
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
US
1827.
August.
during the whole day, over a large fire made of the blubber.
The consequence of all this, and other similar indulgences,
necessarily was, that some of them complained, for several
days after, of the pains usually arising from indigestion ;
though they all, amusingly enough, attributed this effect to
the quality, and not the quantity of meat they had eaten.
The fact, however, is, that the flesh of the bear is just as
wholesome, though not quite as palatable, as any other ; and
had they eaten moderately of it, as the officers did, they
would have suffered no inconvenience whatever. However,
notwithstanding these excesses at first, we were really thank-
ful for this additional supply of meat ; for we had observed,
for some time past, that the men were evidently not so
strong as before, and would be the better for more sustenance,
A second bear being attracted by the smell of our fire, was
wounded, but luckily (for us !) escaped. We had also more
birds about us than usual, and a narwhal, the only one we
had seen since leaving the ship, was blowing in a small hole
of water near us.
The rain continued so hard, at our usual time of setting
out, that I was obliged to delay doing so till six p.m., on the
8th, when it ceased a little, after falling hard for twenty-four Wednesday,
hours, and less violently for twelve more. When we first
launched the boats, our prospect of making progress seemed
no better than usual, but we found one small hole of water
leading into another in so extraordinary a manner that,
Q 2
8tll.
I
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116
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
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1827.
August.
Tuesday,
9th.
Friday,
10th.
though the space in which we were rowing seemed to be al-
ways coming to an end, we continued to creep through narrow
passages, and when we halted to dine at half an hour before
midnight, had only hauled the boats up once, and had
made, though by a winding channel, four or five miles of
southing. This was so unusual a circumstance, that we could
not help entertaining some hope of our being at no great
distance from the open sea, which seemed the more probable
from our having seen seven or eight narwhals, and not less
than two hundred rotges, a flock of these little birds occur-
ring in every hole of water. The wind was from the south-
ward, with a thick fog, and the clear water increased so much,
as we proceeded, that at six, a.m., on the 9th, instead of
hauling up the boats as usual, we served an extra supper,
and then pursued our way. However, at nine o'clock, the
wind having freshened from the southward, and there being
only one floe in sight, with immense spaces of open water
between the streams of loobie ice, I thought it better to halt
upon the floe, than to incur the probable risk of being driven
back, should we be obhged to rest on any of the smaller
pieces. It was fortunate that we adopted this plan ; for, the
wind still increasing from the southward, the loose ice con-
tinued to drive past us to the northward, during the whole
of this and the following day, at the rate of a mile and a half
an hour ; and we were, therefore, very glad to retain our
present quarters. The weather being wet, with fog, we
! I
Q
ir
e
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
117
1827.
August.
occupied the men in making additional sails out of our
empty bread-bags, and in filling the empty vessels with
water, since it now appeared more than probable that we
were close to the open sea. At noon, on the 10th, we
observed in latitude 81° 40' 13", which was only four miles
to the northward of our reckoning from the last observation,
although there had been almost constantly southing in the
wind ever since, and it had been blowing strong from that
quarter for the last thirty hours. This circumstance afforded
a last and striking proof of the general tendency of the ice
to drift southward, about the meridians on which we had
been travelling. Another bear came towards the boats in
the course of the day, and was killed. We were now so
abundantly supplied with meat, that the men would
again have eaten immoderately, had we not interposed the
necessary authority to prevent them. As it was, our en-
campment became so like an Eskimaux establishment, that
we were obliged to shift our place upon the floe, in the
course of the day, for the sake of cleanliness and comfort.
The wind fiiUing towards midnight, we launched the boats
at half past one, a.m., on the 11th, paddling alternately in Saturday,
large spaces of clear water, and among streams of loose
" sailing-ice." We soon afterwards observed such indications
of an open sea as could not be mistaken, much of the ice
being " washed" as by a heavy sea, with small rounded frag-
ments thrown on the surface, and a good deal of " dirty ice"
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118
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
August.
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occurring. W e also met with several pieces of drift-wood
and birch-bark, the first since we had entered the ice ; and
the sea was crowded with shrimps and other sea-insects,
principally the Clio Borealis and Argonauta Arctica, on
which numerous birds were feeding. After passing through
a good deal of loose ice, it became gradually more and more
open, till at length, at a quarter before seven, a.m., we heard
the first sound of the swell under the hollow margins of the
ice, and in a quarter of an hour had reached the open sea,
which was dashing with heavy surges against the outer
masses. We hauled the boats upon one of these, to eat our
last meal upon the ice, and to complete the necessary
supply of water for our little voyage to Table Island, from
which we were now distant fifty miles, our latitude being
81° 34', and longitude 18°i; E. A light air springing up
from the N.W., we again launched the boats, and at eight,
A.M., finally quitted the ice, after having taken up our abode
uj)on it for forty-eight days.
The wind dying away, our progress wholly depended on
the paddles, which made it very laborious for the men. At
two, P.M., we came to some loose ice a mile or two wide,
but so open as scarcely to oblige us to alter our course. At
three the temperature of the sea had increased to 36°, the
air being the same ; and at nine, p.m., both had risen to 38°,
not a piece of ice being in sight in any direction. The
weather continued quite calm, and the atmosphere very
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
119
pleasant to our feelings. We saw a great many seals sport-
ing about, as well as large flocks of rotges, the latter feeding
on the Argonauta Arctica, which now swarmed in myriads.
We also passed a great many pieces of drift-wood, and laid
in a stock, as fuel, lest we should find none at Table Island.
We had some fog during the night, so that we steered
entirely by compass, according to our last observations by
the chronometers, which proved so correct, that at five, a.m.,
on the 12th, on the clearing up of the haze, we made the
island right ahead. At ten, a.m., when within three miles
of it, the temperature of the air was as high as 4 1°, and the
sea still continued at 38°. At eleven, a.m., we reached the
island, or rather the rock to the northward of it, where our
provisions had been deposited ; and I cannot describe the
comfort we experienced in once move feeling a dry and
solid footing. We found that the bears had devoured all
the bread (one hundred pounds), which occasioned a remark
among the men, with reference to the quantity of these
animals' flesh that we had eaten, that " Bruin was only
square with us." We also found that Lieutenant Crozier
had been here since we left the island, bringing some mate-
rials for repairing our boats, as well as various little luxuries
to which we had lately been strangers, and depositing in
a copper cylinder a letter from Lieutenant Foster, giving
me a detailed account of the proceedings of the ship up to
the 23rd of July. By this I learned that the Hecla had
1827.
August.
Siindav,
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120
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
182 7.
August.
.;: !i,;
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been forced on shore on the 7th of July, by the breaking-
up of the ice at the head of the bay, which came down upon
her in one solid mass ; but by the unwearied and zealous
exertions of the officers and men, she had again been hove
off without incurring the slightest damage, and placed in
perfect security. Finding the ship thus liable to be dis-
turbed by ice. Lieutenant Foster had prudently relinquished
the idea of leaving her for any length of time, so as to make
an extended survey of the eastern coast, confining himself to
the neighbouring parts of Waygatz Strait, which were more
within his reach. Among the supplies with which the anxi-
ous care of our friends on board had now furnished us, some
lemon-juice and sugar were not the least acceptable ; two
or three of the men having for some days past suffered from
cedematous swellings of the legs, and evinced other symp-
toms apparently scorbutic, and which soon improved after
administering this valuable specific.
Having got our stores into the boats, we rowed round
Table Island, to look for a place on which to rest, the men
being much fatigued ; but so rugged and inhospitable is
this northern rock, that not a single spot could w^e find where
the boats could possibly be hauled up, or lie afloat in secu-
rity. I therefore determined to take advantage of the
freshening of the N.E. wind, and to bear up for Walden
Island, which we accordingly did at two, p.m. To the islet
which lies off Little Table Island, and which is interesting
TO REACH THE NOkTH POLK.
ISl
as being the northernmost known land upon the globe, I
have applied the name of Lieutenant Koss in the chart ;
for I believe no individual can have exerted himself more
strenuously to rob it of this distinction, ^^'e liad scarcely
made sail when the weather became extremely inclement,
with a fresh gale and very thick snow, which obscured
Walden Island from our view. Steering by compass, how-
ever, we made a good land-fall, the boats behaving well in
a sea ; and at seven, p.m., landed in the smoothest place we
could find under the lee of the island. Everything be-
longing to us was now completely drenched by the spray
and snow ; we had been fifty-six hours without rest, and
forty-eight at work in the boats, so that, by the time they
were unloaded, we had barely strength left to haul them up
on the rock. We noticed, on tliis occasion, that the men
had that wildness in their looks which usually accompanies
excessive fatigue ; and though just as willing as ever to
obey orders, they seemed at times not to comprehend
them. However, by dint of great exertion, we managed to
get the boats above the surf; after which, a hot supper,
a blazing fire of drift-wood, and a few hours' quiet rest (juite
restored us.
The next morning I despatched Lieutenant Pioss, with a
party of hands, to the N.E. part of the island, to launch the
spare boat which, according to my directions. Lieutenant
Foster had sent for our use, and to bring round the stores
R
1827.
Auinist.
]\IontIiu-,
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122
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
August.
deposited there, in readiness for our setting off for Low
Island. They found everything quite undisturbed; but,
by the time they reached us, the wind had backed to the
westward, and the weather become very wet, so that I
determined to remain here till it improved.
The south-eastern, or lowest part of Walden Island, which
we had not before visited, is composed of coarse-grained red
and grey granite. INIr. Beverly remarked, that " on the
face of the rock may be observed veins of a finer grey gra-
nite, from twelve to twenty inches wide, bordered by a
ribbon of whitish felspar, about three inches wide on each
side, and dipping at an angle of 10° to the south-eastward."
Heaps of large rounded masses of granite, in regular hori-
zontal beds, are lying at the height of thirty to forty feet
above the present level of the sea, but giving the idea
of their having once been washed by it. A great number
of female eider-ducks, with their flocks of young, were
swimming about the island ; and the tripe de roche and cock-
learia were here more luxuriant than we had ever seen
them. Drift-wood was, as usual, in great abundance in
every spot where it could effect a landing. We here ob-
served the dip of the magnetic needle to be 81° 24'. 19
North ; and, in taking angles for the survey, discovered a
very dangerous rock, with the sea breaking upon it, at the
distance of a mile and a half from the island, which I have
distinguished as the " Hecla Rock " upon the chart. No
'ii
TO KEACH THE NOUTII POLE.
123
ice was here in sight, to the utmost limit of a very extensive
view.
At ten, A.M., on the 14th, the weather being fine, we
launched our three boats, and left A^'alden Island ; but the
wind backing more to the westward, we could only fetch
into a bay on the opposite or southern shore, ^^here we
hauled the boats up on very rugged rocks, under cliff's about
six hundred feet high, and of the same granite formation as
Walden Island. We found the eastern land of this bay to
be an island separated by a narrow strait ; and this, and
another to the westward of it, having no names in the chart,
I have distinguished them by those of our fellow-travellers,
IMessrs. Beverly and IJird. The wind shifted to the east-
ward in the night, and at eight, a.m., on the loth, we set
out for Low Island, where we arrived at four, p;m., landing
upon the west point, which is composed of a schistose
quartz rock, dipping at an angle of 70° to the S.E., with
a fine smooth beach of small pebbles of quartz and clay-
slate, strewed in every part with immense quantities of
drift-wood. Beds of clay-slate occur further inland, of a
blue, red, and yellow colour, and dipping in various direc-
tions. Off this point, and at the distance of one mile, we
observed several small rocky islets which had before escaped
notice, being then covered with ice. In fact, the whole
neighbourhood of this island should be approached very
cautiously in a ship, the soundings being irregular and
R 2
1827.
August.
Tiii'sday,
llth.
Woiliicsdnv,
13th.
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124
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
Aiii;iist.
TliuvMliiv,
Kith.'
uncertain. AVc here saw a bear, a great many tern and
eider-ducks with their young, and several deer, two of which
were killed. Jly the time we had i)rei)ared for setting out,
the wind liad freshened almost to a gale, with every ap[)ear-
ancc of dirty weather, which induced mc to remain liere
for the night. Messrs. Koss and Ueverly took a long walk
about the island, and found it much intersected by ponds
and lagoons, with very little vegetation in any part. In
the mean time I observed the dip of the magnetic needle,
which was 81° 22.9; and at nino, a.m., on the following
morning, set off for the Hecla ; but as we approached the
point which I have distinguished by the name of " Shoal
Point " on the chart, the wind shifted to the southward, and
raised a sea which obliged us to bear up for the south point
of Low Island, where we landed at one, p.m., on a long
narrow beach, almost entirely composed of clay-slate, with
a lagoon within it. Kear this point is a hill about one
hundred and fifty feet above the sea, which is the highest
and only conspicuous part of the island. The rocks which
compose the hill are of reddish schistose quartz, approach-
ing in some places to sandstone, the strata being disposed
in a direction quite vertical. A^"e saw nothing here resem-
bling the hexagonal stones mentioned by Dr. Irving, in
Phipps's Voyage *, as occurring about the northern part of
* Voyage towards the North Pole, p. 58.
TO UEACU THE NORTH I'OLE. 125
tlic island. Having a commanding view from this emi-
nence, \\c obtained angles lor the survey, and afterwards
found that Lieutenant Crozier had observed the latitude
not far from our present landing-place to be SO'' 15' 2i>".
AVithin, or to the eastward of the island, is a considerable
bay, in Avhich some heavy masses of ice were lying aground,
reminding us more than any that we had seen about Spitz-
bergen of the smaller bergs in JJafiin's JJay, though of
much less dimensions. There appears to bo a great deal
of shoal water in this neighbo'irhocd, and many detached
rocks appear above water. No drift-ice wns in sight in any
direction.
The wind dying away on the morning of tK' 17th, we
once more set out for the ship at nine, a.m.; but h. ^ing
a second time nearly reached Shoal loin were again met
by a strong breeze as we opened AVaygatz Strait, and were
therefore obliged to land upon the lou f-hore to the south-
ward of Low Island. It was, however, some time before
wc discovered a spot on which any fresh water could be
obtained ; for we found this coast to consist almost entirely
of narrow strips of beach, within which are very extensive
lagoons, and most of the water near them is brackish.
'I'he formation here was diiibr .iit from any we had yet met
with about Spitzbcrgen ; the rocks consisting chieHy of
a black marble with i\1iitc and red veins intersecting it,
and the flat parts of the land covered with small detached
1827.
Anvils*,
Friday,
1 nh.
.i '
im
NAllUATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
August.
I
Saliirday,
ISth.
^i
'■i^f''t
Sunday,
I'Jth.
fragments of decomposed limestone. In some places, also,
there are beds of clay-slate of considerable extent. A nar-
row line of marble rock here and there projects into the
sea, like jetties thrown out by art, and having fine beaches
between them. We found one piece of bituminous wood-
coal, which burned with a clear, bright flame, and emitted
a pleasant odour. On this and all the land hereabouts,
where lagoons occur, enormous quantities of drift-wood line
the inner beach, which is now quite inaccessible to the sea,
and this wood is always more decayed than that which lies
on the outer or present sea-beach ; by which it appears that
the latter has been thrown up, to the exclusion of the sea,
long since the inner wood was landed. A great many small
rounded pieces of pumice-stone are also found on this part
of the coast, and these generally occur rather above the
inner line of drift-wood, as if they had reached the highest
limit to which the sea has ever extended.
On the ISth the wind increased to a strong breeze from
the S.W., with rain nnd sleet, which afterwards changed to
snow in some of the largest flakes I ever saw, completely
changing the whole aspect of the land from summer to
winter in a few houi 8. On the following morning we pre-
pared to move at an early hour, but the wind backed more
to the westward, and soon after increased to a gale, raising
so much surf on the beach as to oblige us to haul the boats
higher up. The rain, which fell heavily, keeping us pri-
TO REACH THE NOllTH POLE.
127
1827.
August.
^Monday,
•JUIh.
soncrs under our awnings, dissolved nearly all the snow on
the low lands. As the wind now blew so much upon the
shore, I was in momentary expectation of seeing some ice
come in, but we were agreeably surprised to find that none
appeared. This circumstance appeared to us the more
remarkable from the extraordinary rapidity with which, in
the month of June, the very lightest air from the west-
ward brought the drift-ice in upon the land, rendering
these shores quite inaccessible in the course of a few hours.
On the 20th, tired as we were of this tedious confine-
ment, and anxious to reach the ship, the wind and sea
were still too high to allow us to move, and it was not till
half past seven, a.m., on the 21st, that we could venture to Tuesday,
launch the boats. Having now, by means of the drift-wood,
converted our paddles into oars, and being occasionally
favoured by a light breeze, with a perfectly open sea, we
made tolerable progress, and at half past four, p.im., when
within three or four miles of Hecla Cove, had the gratifica-
tion of seeing a boat under sail, coming out to meet us.
jNIr. AVcir soon joined us in one of the cutters ; and, after
hearing good accounts of thp safety of the ship, and of the
welfare of all on board, together with a variety of details, to
us of no small interest, we arrived on board at seven, i»..m.,
after an absence of sixty-one days, being received with that
warm and cordial welcome, which can alone be felt, and not
described.
•J 1st,
v-r,
m
128
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
I' »
1827.
August.
I *
The distance traversed during this excursion was five
hundred and sixty-nine geographical miles ; but allowing for
the number of times we had to return for our baggage dur-
ing the greater part of the journeys over the ice, we estimated
our actual travelling at nine hundred and seventy-eight geo-
graphical, or eleven hundred and twenty-seven statute miles.
Considering our constant exposure to wet, cold, and fatigue,
our stockings having generally been drenched in snow-water
for twelve hours out of every four-and- twenty, I had great rea-
son to be thankful for the excellent health in which, upon the
whole, we reached the ship. There is no doubt that we had
all become, in a certain degree, gradually weaker for some
time past ; but only three men of our party now required
medical care, two of them with badly swelled legs and gene-
ral debility, and the other from a bruise ; but even these
three returned to their duty in a short time.
I cannot conclude the account of our proceedings w ithout
endeavouring to do justice to the cheerful alacrity and un-
wearied zeal displayed by my companions, both officers and
men, in the course of this excursion ; and if steady perse-
verance and active exertion on their parts could have accom-
plished our object, success would undoubtedly have crowned
our labour;,. I must also mention, to the credit of the officers
of 'SN^oolwich dock-yard, who took so much pains in the con-
struction of oui boats, that, notwithstanding the constant
and severe trial to which their strength had been put — and
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
129
a more severe trial could not well be devised — not a timber
was Spring, a plank split, or tlie smallest injury sustained by
them , they were, indeed, as tight and as fit for service when
we reached the ship as when they were first received on
board, and in every respect answered the intended purpose
admirably.
An abstract of our meteorological observations during this
excursion, is given in the Appendix, together with those
kept on board the Hecla. In this there is nothing so
remarkable as the extraordinary quantity of rain, of which
it may safely be said that twenty times as much fell in the
course of this one summer, as during any preceding one we
had passed in the polar regions, even in latitudes from 8° to
16° lower.
182-.
August.
On my arrival on board, I learned from Lieutenant Crozier
that Lieutenant Foster, finding that no further disturbance
from ice was to be apprehended, and after making an accu-
rate plan of the bay and its neighbourhood, had proceeded
on the survey of Waygatz Strait, and proposed returning by
the 2Gth, the day to which I had limited his absence. I
found the ship quite ready for sea, with the exception of
getting on board the launch, with the stores deposited by
s
180
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
August.
t
I
my direction on the beach. Lieutenant Foster's report
informed me that, after the ship had been hauled off the
ground *, they had again suffered considerable disturbance
for several days, in consequence of some heavy masses of ice
driving into the bay, which dragged the anchors, and again
threatened them with a similar accident. However, after
the middle of July no ice had entered the bay, and, what is
still more remarkable, not a piece had been seen in the
offing for some weeks past, even after hard northerly and
westerly gales. I must here not omit to do justice to the
zealous and unwearied exertions which had been made by
Lieutenant Foster, and every officer and man left on board,
as well to preserve the Hecla from injury, under circum-
stances of considerable danger, as to get on board all the
stores ar'I ballast after they had been landed for the purpose
of heaving her off ; in the course of which service, the con-
duct of every individual was highly meritorious. It was also
a source of great satisfaction to find everybody on board in
good health, with the exception of Mr. Crawford, the Green-
land Master, who had for some time past been in a declining
* I cannot here omit to mention the invaluable advantage derivccl, on this
occasion, from one of our cutters (a twenty-five feet boat) having been fitted on
Mr. Cow's ingenious principle for wcigliing anchors in the centre, instead of the
extremity of the boat. By this beautiful contrivance, six men could weigh the
Hecla's bower-anchor, of thirty cwt., with ease, and transport it any distance
with safety. Indeed, but for this facility, added to that aftbrded by Phillips's
Capstan, the Hecla's reduced crew would j)robably have been unable to haul her
off the ground at all on this occasion.
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
131
state, and now evinced dropsical symptoms, indicating a
gradual and rapid decay.
No opportunity had been lost of making such observations
as, in this latitude, may be considered interesting to science,
and in collecting specimens of natural history ; in all w^hich
pursuits the officers were constantly employed, during every
moment that could be spared from the necessary duties of
the ship. Among other magnetic observations, an interest-
ing series of hourly experiments had been made on the
diurnal changes of variation and intensity, and continued for
several days without intermission, by Lieutenants Foster and
Crozier. By these it appears that there is a diurnal oscilla-
tion of the magnetic needle, usually amounting to about a
degree and a half, and in some instances to 2°il ; the maxi-
mum westerly variation occurring at about five, p.m., and
the minimum about 4'' 22", a.m. The experiments on the
change of intensity were not less satisfactory and conclusive ;
exhibiting an increased action aliout 10'' 20 ", a.m., and a
minimum intensity about midnight. There was also ob-
served a remarkable coincidence between these two pheno-
mena, the largest amount of diurnal variation and the greatest
changes of intensity usually occurring on the same days .
On the 22d, as soon as our people had enjoyed a good
night's rest, we commenced bringing the stores on board
from the beach, throwing out such a quantity of the stone
ballast as was necessary for trimming the ship ; after which
S 2
1827.
August.
Wedncsdaj',
2-2nd.
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132
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
August.
W^
Friday,
24tir.
the cables and hawsers were cast off from the shore, and the
ship hauled off to single anchor. Lieutenant Foster returned
on board on the 24th, having surveyed the greater part of
the shores of the Strait, as far to the southward as 79° 33'.
This Strait was found to vary in breadth from four to eleven
miles ; and Lieutenant Foster recognised distinctly almost
every feature of the lands delineated in the old Dutch chart
before alluded to, though the position of these is, in general,
very erroneously laid down, both in latitude and longitude.
Still, however, there is enough to shew that they have been
delineated from a sketch actually made upon the spot. The
land within the Strait, especially that which he saw to the
southward of 79°i, Lieutenant Foster considered to be much
higher than any of the northern shores of Spitzbcrgen, being
in some parts probably not less than three thousand feet.
He found in some places a good deal of alluvial soil, such
as occurs at the base of the hills in almost every part of this
coast on which wo have landed. Some islands near the
middle of the Strait, to which I have ventured to affix the
name of Lieutenant Foster, are composed of hornblende ;
but at a short distance to the westward of these, a limestone
formation occurred, with numerous fossils imbedded in the
rock, upon a prominent headland forming the eastern point
of entrance to Bear or Loom Bay, and which Lieutenant
Foster distinguished by the name of Cape Fanshawe. A
striking feature of the land on the western coast of the
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE,
133
Strait consists in the numerous ice-bergs with which the
chfFs are in many parts Hned. One of these, marked in the
chart, is not less than nine miles in length, and one hundred
and fifty feet high ; immense masses of ice were constantly
falling from them at this season, with a sound resembling
that of thunder. Several of these ice-bergs are faithfully
laid down in the Dutch Chart.
Lieutenant Foster saw some sea-horses, narwhals, and
white whales, in the course of this excursion, but no black
whales ; nor did we, in the whole course of the voyage, see
any of these, except on the ground already frequented by our
whalers, on the western coast of Spitzbergen. It is remark-
able, however, that the " crown-bones," and other parts of
the skeleton of whales, are found in most parts where we
landed on this coast. The shores of the Strait, like all the
rest in Spitzbergen, are lined with immense quantities of drift-
wood, wherever the nature of the coast will allow it to land.
That part of Treurenburg Jiay, to which I have aflixed
the liame of Hecla Cove, is the only good anchorage it con-
tains, the water being either too deep or too shoal in n.ost
other parts. The Hecla's anchorage is perfectly land-locked
and secure, except from the incursions of ice, which, in these
regions, occasionally finds its way into every corner; but
even in this respect, there was nothing to apprehend after
the middle of July. The holding-ground is excellent, con-
sisting of a tenacious blue clay, in which the anchors were
1827.
August.
•lii'i
i
i
134
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
1827.
August.
i
quite imbedded. The latitude of the flag-stafF marked in
the riaii, on which a copi)er-])late was fixed, giving an ac-
count of the Hechi's visit, is 79° 55' 20", and its longitude
by our chronometers 10° 48' 45" east. The dip of the
magnetic needle by that employed by Lieutenant Foster is
80° 45'.91, and by mine 81° 4'.58. The mean variation is
18° 4 G' 12" westerly. The time of liigh water at full and
change is 2^ 26", the highest rise at spring tides being four
feet two inches, and the smallest at the neaps seventeen
inches ; both of these occurring at the fourth tide after the
full moon, and the last quarter, respectively.
The animals met with here, during the Hecla's stay, were
principally rein-deer, bears, foxes, kittiwakes, glaucous and
ivory gulls, tern, eider-ducks, and a few grouse. TiOoms and
rotges were numerous in the offing. Seventy rein-deer were
killed, chiefly very small, and, until the middle of August,
not in good condition. They were usually met with in herds
of from six or eight to twenty, and were most abundant on the
west and north sides of the bay. Three bears were killed,
one of wliich was somewhat above the ordinary dimensions,
measuring eight feet four inches from the snout to the
insertion of the tail. The vegetation was tolerably abundant,
especially on the western side of the bay, where the soil is
good ; a considerable collection of plants, as well as mineralsi
was made by Mr. Halse, and of birds by Mr. M'Cormick.
The following remarks by Mr. Beverly, made during our
I'mhiiJwti.uth.^ rf.V .///>-,.'.■ n^'ifff 6v lohn .^unit, tlKfi^i^.-. it>**fJ..'if.k^,
f t-i n.,a.-iX^Uf,t
jl»
TO UEACII TIIK NOUTII POLE.
196
short stay in ITccla Cove, after retiirnin<if from the north,
may he interesting to geologists. " The land on the (!ast
side of this hay, near tlu; Cove, is a flat, from two to three
miles in extent, and is composed, in some parts, of a fine
deep alluvial soil, prohahly formed hy the decomposition of
the rocks which compose the hills to the southward. On
this plain there are heds of schistose ([uartz, nearly approach-
ing to sand-stone, and chiefly of a ])ale red colour. IJeds
of clay-slate also occur, in some places of greenish gray, and
in others of a hrick-red colour. Next the sea is a fine hold
beach, composed of rounded jjieces of the above rock, with
limestone intermixed. At about a ([uarter of a mile from
the base of the high land, immense masses of a very coarse-
grained rock lie scattered about, and api)ear to have been
precipitated from the ui>per stratum of the mountain. They
are composed of ferruginous sand and hornblende, in such a
state of decomposition as to crumble to powder under the
blow of the hammer.
" The range of mountains beyond this plain lies in an
E.b.S., and afterwards in a more southerly, direction, form-
ing the west shore of AV'aygatz Strait ; and, as far as I was
able to ascertain, is composed of the same rock, which, being
soft, gives their summit a smooth and rounded form. The
debris extends about five hundred yards on the i)lain, and
consists of loose fragments, rendering the ascent to the per-
pendicular face of the rock very difficult. I'liat part of the
IS27.
AuL'utt.
ir L 'J
I
t-l
L >
i^ ■■:
13«
NAUUATIVE OF AN ATTEMIT
I H27.
Aiicjust.
)l,
hill wliicli fiiccs the harbour is composed of qVi^-io vt ;Ii, in
some places schistose, in others massive, with a waxy fracture.
This terminates abruptly about a mile and a lialf to the
eastward, where the clay-slate formation commences, being
of a deep lead colour, a firm texture, and less talcose than
that on the plain. The inclination of this stratum, as well
as that of the quartz rock, is to the south-east, at an angle of
about sixty degrees.
" The formatioj'. of the rocks on the opposite or western
side of the bay, appeared, as far as I had an opportunity of
examining them, to be much the same. At the foot of the
hills there is a broad belt of flat alluvial ground, much of
which consists of a fine deep soil, thickly covered with mosses
and other vegetation ; upon this flat ground arc lying large
boulders of mica-slate."
The height of the hill nearest to Hecla Cove, as measured
barometrically by Lieutenant Foster, is about two thousand
feet ; but the barometer having subsequently been found
defective, this measure can only be considered an approxi-
mation. The hills on the south side of the bay are con-
siderably higher than this.
The neighbourhood of this bay, like most of the northern
shores of Spitzbergen, appears to have been much visited by
the Dutch at a very early period ; of which circumstance re-
cords arc furnished on almost every spot where we landed, by
the numerous graves which arc met with. There are thirty
TO UEAUII THE NORTH I'OLR.
13T
of these on a point of land on the north side of the bay *.
The bodies arc usually deposited in an oblong wotnlcn
cofKn, whieli, on account of the difficulty of di«^*;ing the
ground, is not buried, but merely covered by large stones ;
and a board is generally i)laced near the head, liaving, either
cut or painted, upon it the name of the deceased, with those
of his shij) and commander, and the month and year of his
burial. Several of these were fifty or sixty years old ; one
bore the date of 1738 ; and another, which I found on the
beach to the eastward of llecla Cove, that of 1G90, the
inscrij)tion distinctly appearing in i)rominent relief, occa-
sioned by the preservation of the wood by the paint, while
the unpainted part had decayed around it.
The ofHcers who remained on board the Ilecla durinjr
the summer described the weather as the most beautiful,
and the climate altogether the most ugreeablc, they had
ever experienced in the polar regions. Indeed, the ^Nfe-
teorological Journal, of which an abstract for each month is
annexed to this volume, shows a temperature, both of the
air and of the sea-water, to which we had before been alto-
gether strangers within the Arctic Circle, and which goes
far towards showing that the climate of Spitzbergcn is a
remarkably temperate one for its latitude f . It nuist, how-
* rerliaps the name of tliis bay, from tlie Dutcli word Treurm, " to lament,
or be mournful," may have some reference to the graves fonnil Ik'-p.
t Mr. Crowe of Ilannnerfest, who lately passed a winter on the soutii-westcrn
T
IS jr.
Auaust.
. , '5
i
%
138
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEIMPT
1827.
Aupist,
Tuesday,
•Jtith."
Wodnesdav,
ever, be observed that this remark is principally applicable
to the weather experienced near the land, that at sea being
rendered of a totally different character by the almost con-
tinual presence of fogs ; so that some of our most gloomy
days upod the ice were among the finest in Ilecla Cove,
where, however, a good deal of rain fell in the course of the
summer.
The Hecla was ready for sea on the 25th of August ;
but the wind blowing fresh from the northward and west-
ward prevented our moving till the evening of the 28th,
when, the weather improving, we got under way from Ilecla
Cove, and being fiivoured with a light air from the S.E.,
stood along tiie coast to the westward. On the evening of
the 29th, when off Eed Beach, we got on board our boat
and other stores which had been left there, finding them
undisturbed and in good order. The weather was beauti-
fully fine, and the sun (to us for the first time for about
four months) just dipped his lower limb into the sea at
midnight, and then rose again. It was really wonderful to
see that, upon this whole northern coast of Spitzbergen,
where in jMay and June not a "hole" of clear water could
be found, it would now have been equally difficult to dis-
const of S])it'/l)cr<i;cn, in about latitude 7H , informed nie that he had rain at
Christ. /Kis ; a phenonienon, which would indeed have astonished us at any of
our former wintering stations in a nnich lower latitude. Perhaps the tireuni-
stanee of I lie rein-deer wintering; at Spitzbergen may also be eon.sidered n proof
of a comparatively temperate climate.
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
139
1927.
Aucust.
Thursday,
30lll,
Friday,
31st.
cover a single mass of ice in any direction. This absence
of ice now enablecl us to see Moli'en Island, which is so low
and flat that it was before entirely hidden from our view
by the hummocks. On rounding llakluyt's Headland on
the 30th, we came at once into a long swell, such as occurs
only in places exposed to the whole range of the ocean,
and, except a small and loose stream or two, we after this
saw no more ice of any kind. On the 31st we were off
l^rince Charles's Foreland, the middle part of which, about
Cape Sietoe, appeared to be much the highest land we had
seen in Spitzbergen ; rising probably to an elevation of
above four thousand Icet.
We had favourable winds to carry us clear of Spitzbergen ; Soptomboi
but after the 3rd of September, and between the parallels of
70° and 60°, were detained by continual southerly and south-
westerly breezes for a fortnight. On the evening of the
17th we made Shetland, and on the following day, being
close off Balta Sound, and the wind blowing strong from
the S.W., I anchoi'd in the N'oe at two p.m., to wait a nun-e
favoui-able breeze. ^ye were here received by all that
genuine hospitality for which the inhabitants of this
northern part of the Jhilish dominions are so justly distin-
guished, and we gladly availed ourselves of the Nupi)lies
with which their kindness furnished us. Mc here also
obtained observations for our chronometers on the hjmt
where Captain Kater and ^Monsieur IJiot swung their jvii-
T a
Monday,
irtli.
M.
iiir
140
XARRATIi'E OF AN ATTEMPT
I:
1827.
September.
Wcdnpsday,
I'Jtli.
Thursday,
liOth,
Siindiiv,
■JJrd.'
■Jltli."
V
1
dulums ; and it was satisfactory, as regarded our survey of
the northern shores of Spitzbergen, to find that we differed
from the Ordnance- Survey only eight seconds of time.
Early on the morning of the 19th the wind suddenly
shifted to the N.N.W., and almost immediately blew so
strong a gale that we could not safely cast the ship until
the evening, when we got under way and proceeded to the
southward ; but had not proceeded farther than Fair Island,
when, after a few hours' calm, we were once more met by
a southerly wind. Against this we continued to beat till
the morning of the 23rd, when, finding that we made but
little progress, and that there was no appearance of an
alteration of wind, I determined to put into Long Hope, in
the (Akncy Islands, to await a change in our favour, and
accordinfflv ran in and anchored there as soon as the tide
would permit.
^yv found lying here Ilis ^Majesty's Eevenuc Cutter the
Chichester ; and jVIr, Stuart, her commander, who was bound
direct to Inverness, came on board as soon as we had an-
chored, lo offer his services in any manner which might
be useful. The wind died away in the course of the night,
and was succeeded on the following morning by a light air
from the northward, when we innnediately got undci way ;
but had not entered the Pentland Tirth, when it again fed
calm and then baci<ed to the southward, rendo'ing it impos-
sible to make any progress in that direction with a dull-
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
Ul
sailing ship. I therefore determined on returning Avitli the
Hecla to the anchorage, and then taking advantage of Mr,
Stuart's offer ; and accordingly left the ship at eight, a.m.,
accompanied by IMr. Beverly, to proceed to Inverness in
the Chichester, and from thence by land to London, in
order to lay before His Royal Highness the Lord High
Admiral, without further delay, an account of our proceed-
ings. By the zealous exertions of jNIr. Stuart, for which I
feel greatly obliged to that gentleman, we arrived off Fort
George the following morning, and landing at Inverness at
noon, iunncdiately set off for London, and arrived at the
Admiralty on the morning of the ::i!9tli.
Owing to the continuance of southerly winds, the Hecla
did not arrive in the river Thames until the (Uh of October,
when I was sorry, though not surprised, to learn the death
of Mr. (ieorge Crawford, the Cireenland master, who de-
parted this life on the 2Uth of Se])tember, sincereiy lamented
by all who knew him, as a zealous, active, and enter})rising
seaman, and an amiable and deserving man. ^Nfr. Crawford
had accomiianied us in five successive voyages to the Polar
Seas, and 1 truly regret the occasion which demands from
me this public testinu)ny of the value of his services and
the excellence of his character.
A few days having been emi)l()yed at XovtliHeet in
repeating some of the magnetic observations necessary for
completing the series of those experijuents, the Hecla pro-
1827.
September,
Sfitiirilay,
•J'Jtli.
«£
qi
1827.
October.
U2
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
ceeded to Deptford. On the 17th of October His Royal
Highness the Lord High Admiral was pleased to inspect
the ship, together ^vith the equipment of the boats which
had been employed in the late Expedition over the ice;
after which the Hecla was dismantled, and paid off on the
1st of November.
■I
t i
Having finished my Narrative of this Attempt to reach
the North Pole, I may perhaps be permitted, in conclusion,
to offer such remarks as have lately occurred to me, on the
nature and practicability of the enterprizc.
That the object is of still more difficult attainment than
was before supposed, even by those persons who were the
best qualified to judge of it, will, I believe, appear evident
from a perusal of the foregoing pages ; nor can I, after
much consideration and some experience of the various
difficulties which belong to it, recommend any material
improvement in the plan lately adopted. Among the
various schemes suggested for this purpose, it has been pro-
posed to set out from Spitzbcrgen, and to make a rapid
journey to the northward, with sledges, or sledge-boats,
drawn wholly by dogs or rein-deer ; but, however feasible
TO REACH TIIE NORTH POLE,
143
this plan may at first sight appear, I cannot say that our
late experience of the nature of the ice \vhich they Mould
prohably have to encounter, has been at all favourable to it.
It would, of course, be a matter of extreme imprudence to
set out on this enterprizc without the means of crossing —
not merely narrow pools and " lanes " — but more extensive
spaces of open water, such as we met with between the
margin of the ice and the Spitzbergen shores ; and I do
not conceive that any boat sufficiently large to be efficient
and safe for this purpose, could possibly be managed upon
the ice, were the power cmploycfl to give it motion depen-
dent on dogs or rein-deer. On the contrary, it was a fre-
quent subject of remark among the officers, that reason was
a qualificiition scarcely less indispensable than strength and
activity, in travi^lling over such a road ; daily instances
occurring of our liaving to pass over difficult places, which
no other animal than man could have been easily prevailed
upon to attempt. Indeed, the constant necessity of launch-
ing and haulin'5 up the boats (which operations we had
frequently to perforui eight or ten, and, on one occasion,
seventeen times in the i^ame day) would alone render it
inexpedient, in my opinion, to depend chiefly upon other
animals ; for it would certainly require more time and
labour t get them into and out of the boats, than their
services n\ the intervals, or their ilosh ultimately used as
food, would be worth ; espociall} ^^ hen it is considered how
■ ■f\
■1
3^
lit
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTKMPT
iF ■
large a ^veight of piovcntler must be carried for tlicir own
subsistence *.
In case of employing rein-deer, which, from their strength,
docility, and hardy habits, appear the best suited to this
kind of travelling, there would be an evident advantage in
setting out much earlier in the year than we did ; perhaps
about tho end of ^April, when the ice is less broken up, and
the snow much harder upon its surface, than at a more
advanced part of the season. IJut this, it must be recol-
lected, would involve the necessity of passing tho previous
winter on the northern coast of Spitzbergen, which, even
under favourable circumstances, would probably tend to
weaken in so)ne degree the energies of tho men ; while, on
the other hand, it would bi' next to impossible to procure
there a supply of proven (^cT for a number of tame rein-deer,
sufficient even to keep them alive, much less in tolerable
condition, during a Avhole winter. In addition to this, it
may be observed, that any i)arty setting out earlier nuist be
provided m ith a much greater weight of warm clothing, in
order to guard against the severity of the cold, and also
with an i)'iCreased proportion of fuel for procuring water by
the mi iting of snow, there being no fresh water upon the
ice, \n these latitudes, before the month of June.
in the kind of provisions proper to be employed in such
cnt< rprizes — a very important consideration, '/.here almost
* s.
CO J). G of this Narralivc.
r;
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
1«
the whole difficulty may be said to resolve itself into a
(juestion of weight — I am not aware that any improvement
could be made upon that with whicli we were furnishetl ;
for I know of none which appears to contain so much nutri-
ment in so small a weight and compass. It may be useful,
however, to remark, as the result of absolute experience, that
our daily allowance of provisions *, although previously tried
for some days on board thf sliip, and then considered to
be enough, proved by no means sutficient to support the
strength of men living constantly in the open air, exposed
to wet and cold for at least twelve hours a day, seldom
enjoying the luxury of a warm meal, and having to perform
the kind of labour to which our people were subject. I
have before remarked that, previously to our return to the
ship, our strength was considerably impaired ; and, indeed,
there is reason to believe that, very soon after entering upon
the ice, the physical energies of the men were gradually
diminishing ; although, for the first few weeks, they did not
appear to labour under any specific complaint. This dimi-
nution of strength, which we considered to be principally
owing to the w^ant of sufficient sustenance, became apparent,
even after a fortnight, in the lifting of the bread-bags and
other heavy weights ; and I have no doubt that, in spite of
every care on the part of the officers, as well as Mr. Beverly's
* See p. 59 of this Narrative.
TJ
If
146
NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT
I i
skilful and humane attention to their ailments, some of the
men, who had hcgun to fail before %ve quitted the ice,
Mould, in a week or two longer, have suffered very severely,
and become a serious incumbrance, instead of an assistance,
to our party. As for as we were able to judge, without
further trial, jMr. Eeverly and myself were of opinion that,
in order to maintain the strength of men thus employed,
for several weeks together, an addition would be requisite,
of at least one third more to the provisions which we daily
issued. I need scarcely remark how much this would in-
crease the difficulty of equipping such an Expedition.
I cannot dismiss the subject of this enterprise, without
attempting to explain, as far as I am able, how it may have
happened that the ice over which we passed was found to
answer so little to the description of that observed by the
respectable authorities quoted in a former part of this
volume *. It frequently occurred to us, in the course of
our daily journies, that this may, in some degree, have
arisen from our navigators' having generally viewed the ice
from a considerable height. The only clear and command-
ing view on board a ship is that from the crow's-nf st ; and
Pliipps's most important remarks concerning the nature of
the ice to the north of Spitzbergen were made from a sta-
tion several hundred feet above the sea ; and, as it is well
* Introduction.
TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
U*
knoun how much the most experienced eye may thus be
deceived, it is possible enoujjjh that the irregularities which
cost us so much tirnc and labour may, when viewed in this
manner, have entirely escaped notice, and the whole surface
have appeared one smooth and level plain.
It is, moreover, possible that the broken state in which
we unexpectedly found thC ice may have arisen, at least in
part, from an unusually wet season, preceded, perhaps, by
a winter of less than ordinary severity. Of the latter we
iiave no means of judging, there being no record, that I am
aware of, of the temperature of that or any other winter
passed in the higher latitudes ; but, on comparing our
Meteorological Register with some others, kept during the
corresponding season, and about the same latitude *, it does
appear that, though no material difference is observable in
the mean temperature of the atmosphere, the quantity of
rain which we experienced is considerably greater than
usual ; and it is well known how very rapidly ice is dis-
solved by a fall of rain. At all events, from whatever cause
it may have arisen, it is certain that, about the meridian
on which we proceeded northward in the boats, the sea
was in a totally different state from what Phipps expe-
rienced, as may be seen from comparing our accounts ; his
ship being closely beset, near the Seven Islands, for several
* Particularly that of Mr. Scoresby during the month of July, from 181^
to 1818 inclubivc, ami Ca])tain rrankliii's for July ami August 1818.
■M
•■f
I
<&L
llfri
148
ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.
(lays about the beginning of August ; whereas the Ilccla,
in the beginning of June, sailed about in the same neigh-
bourhood without obstruction, and, before the close of
July, not a piece of ice could be seen from Little Table
Island.
I may add, in conclusion, that, before the middle of
August, when we left the ice in our boats, a ship might
have sailed to the latitude of 82°, almost without touching
a piece of ice ; and it was the general opinion among us
that, by the end of that month, it would probably have
been no very difficult matter to reach the parallel of 83°,
about the meridian of the Seven Islands.
I
END OF TFIE NARRATIVE.
I I
APPENDIX,
L*
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
|2.5
Ui i2.2
i
u liii
1.1 l*^ I-
1-25 nil 1.4
1.6
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
k
o^
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716)872-4503
^^
s^
1
'i' ■
,1
1
I.
:
JUNE 25, AND AUGUST 10, J«>7,
AND ON BO.RO „,« MA.ESTV.S SH.P HECLA. BETWE..
MAY J, ^ND SEPTEMBER J(), J827.
■^- i..U..N., A.N ASTERISK APPIXK,. TO THE.V.IS- THK K,H., .,„,,■
I r h
'^}| .1 ' ' '
ii I
I
\2
■5^'i
■/M
"ii
.I'm
I,:
1 1*
152
APPENDIX.— No. I.
f.
i-i
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOUR:
Day.
North
Latitude
at
Kast
Luiigituik*
at
Fahri'nlii'it's Thermonielor.
In Shadi'.
HiKhest
in
Sea Watw
at suifaop
(
Noon.
Nuoii.
Alaxiuiuni, 1 Minimum.
1
Mean.
Sun.
liishost.
1827.
June 25
O ' //
81 15 13*
<
21 15
o
86
31
35
„ 2(5
81 17
21 17
33
32
S2'5
M 27
81 19
21 21
36
334
318
'
„ 28
81 21
21 25
43
3i
37
„ 29
81 23 0*
21 33*
33
33
33
89
„ 30
81 24
21 50
35
81
33
314
July 1
81 30 41*
21 12
33
29
80'7
2
81 35 50*
22 5
35
28
31
.
3
81 30
22 42
.
,
.
.
■1
81 40
23 55
34
33
33-7
.
5
6
81 45 IS*
81 48
24 23*
24 20
S4i
32
333
S2,J
Soati'Wrjiiionu
„ 7
81 51
23 55
334
33
33-8
.
8
81 54
21 12
35
324
33-7
,
S2'7
9
81 59
23 46
36
84
35
, ,
„ 10
82 3 19*
23 17*
35
334
34
321
„ n
82 11
22 51
35
334
345
37
32
„ 12
82 14 28*
■ii 4*
36
344
35-2
38
S3.>
13
82 17 10*
21 40
36
334
3J-3
38
32.i
„ 11
82 18
21 35
334
32i
33
15
82 20
20 54
33
31
33-3
'33
S31
„ 16
82 26 50*
20 32 •
373
32i
85
47
31
., n
82 32 10*
20 32*
40
34
35-7
51
33
„ 18
82 33
20 5
37
334
35o
,
33
„ 19
82 35
20 33
35i
31
33-2
'504
31
« 20
82 36 52*
20 5
34J
31
33'2
38
31
„ 21
82 39 10*
19 52*
37
334
358
45
33,\
„ 22
82 43 5*
19 51
3(
81
32-2
38
3li
„ 23
82 44
19 48
3'i
314
314
85
33.1
» 21
82 43
19 37
38
81
S2'2
,
,
„ 25
82 42
19 30
33J
33
332
,
, ,
„ '20
82 40 M*
19 25*
334
304
31-7
37
31
„ 27
82 40
19 30
36
304
33-2
34
32,J
28
82 38
19 15
33
33
33
, *
32,1
„ 29
82 33 7*
18 40
31i
31
31.7
,
29.1
30
82 20 37*
18
33
31
31.6
354
3U
„ 31
82 1 t 25*
17 18*
3t
SOi
32
. .
31. t
August 1
82 11
17 30
334
30
31-8
,
, ,
« 2
82 f) 0»
17 46*
334
314
32-5
31i
,
3
82 1 48*
17 50
37
304
S3
39
31.i
4
81 57 35*
17 5G*
30.J
29
"6-3
39
33,1
5
81 51 47*
18 10
35
28
SI-."!
42
33^
G
81 51
18 4
334
28
30 -7
34
31,i
^
81 40
17 53
34
ar4
337
32 .J
8
81 48
17 58
32
32
32
, ,
311
9
81 37
18 3
33
34
32-8
.
3U
10
81 40 13*
18 20
34
321
.■?3>2
.
.
43
28
33-8
389
32'C
METEOROLOGY.
153
1
OGICAL JOURNAL ■ KEPT DURING THE EXPEDITION TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE.
ighest
Soa Water
in
at hUTface
Sun.
highc^t.
o
39
31}
•
Prevailing Winds.
37
38
38
33
'17
51
*50i
38
45
38
35
37
34
35.V
31i
39
39
42
aOaHWIaUiomi
32'7
321
32
3,^1
32i
331
31
33
33
31
31
S3.\
sii
33i
31
32|
32i
29,1
30
3H
31.1
33.1
33i
31
31.1
321
311
• •
31.1
38-9
321
Direction,
wsw.
sw.
NE. Southerly.
SSE.
Soullierly.
SSW.
SW.
Calm. SE.
Easterly.
Easterly. West.
SW. South.
SE.
ESE.
ESE.
ESE.
East.
E. by S. SE.
SE.
ESE.
ESE. SE. by E.
SSE. WSW.
SSW. SSE.
SE. S. byE.
SE.
SE. North.
North.
North. Calm.
WSW. WNW.
North.
NW.byN. W.byN.
W.by N. WNW.
WNW. Calm.
SE. E. by S.
ENE. NE. byN.
NE. by. N.
NNE. NW.
West.
SW.
SW.byW. West.
SW. SE.
SE. East.
East. E. by S.
SE. by E.
Easterly.
WSW. Southerly.
South.
SW.
Velocity.
Moderate.
Light.
Moderate.
Light.
Light.
Fresh
Fresh.
Light.
Fiesh.
Moderate. I'resh.
Light. Moderate.
Moderate.
Fresh.
Moderate.
Fresh.
Fresh.
Fresh.
Moderate.
Moderate.
Moderate. Fresh.
Light.
Light. Moderate.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Fresh.
Moderate. Fresh.
Fresh, Stiong.
Strong.
Light. Fresh.
Fresh. Strong.
Strong.
Fresh. Moderate.
Moderate.
Light Fresh.
Moderate. Light.
Moderate.
Light.
Light. Fresh.
Fresh.
Fresh.
Light. Moderate.
Moderate. Strong.
Fresli. Moderate.
Weather, and other Remarks
Fog and i;iin.
Much rain.
Hazy. Thick fog.
Ditto.
Very clear and fine.
Much snow.
Some sniiw. PM. fine.
Some snow.
Snow, .sleet, and rain.
Uain and fog. Overcast, with fog.
Cloudy. Clear and fine.
Thick fo-.
Ditto.
Rain and fog.
Rnin. Clear. Rain.
Very thick fog.
Fog and rnin. Clear.
Clear.— Hlack bulb in IGJ to 45^.
Clear and line.
Clear and flne. Hard rain.
Rain. Overcast. Fog-bow coloured.
Clear.
Fine.
Fog. Clear.
Much ruin and fog.
Foggy.
Overcast, but clear. Some fog.
Clear and line. Foggy.
Sleet.
Snow — 2 inches fell.
Foggy. Snow — 2 inches fell.
Small rain. Cloudy.
Cloudy. Snow.
Snow. Fog.
Overcast and misty.
Fog. Cloudy. Small snow.
Snow. Cloudy.
Fine. Rain.
Cloudy, but clear. Clear.
Clear and dry.
Very line and clear.
Ditto ditto.
Foggy and wet.
Heavy rain.
Much rain.
Fog. Hazy. Wet.
Rain and fog. Thick fog.
Parhelion.
I^-
■Jil
i
154
APPENDIX.— No. I.
:.,|.:^
Days.
May 1
,, 2
« 3
„ 4
5
„ 6
,, 7
„ 8
» 9
,, 10
„ 11
,, 12
„ IS
., U
„ 15
„ 16
„ 17
„ 18
,. 19
„ 20
„ 21
» 22
„ 23
,, 21
„ 25
,, 2G
„ 27
„ 28
„ 29
„ .SO
„ SI
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL, KEPT ON BOARD
North
Latiliule.
O I
71 88
72 20
72 51
73 29
73 SO
73 59
75 5
76 10
77 1
77 8
77 58
78 13
78 22
79 48
80 4
80 1
79 57
79 56
79 55
79 55
79 55
79 55
79 55
79 55
Knst
Loiigitiidi*
20 59
16 15
U 56
9 53
7 2
3 8
9
1 50
7 5
7 15
7 50
7 55
^ 2
10 35
12 39
13 5
13 23
13 39
13 46
IS 51
13 52
18 55
13 58
14 2
79
55
14
5
79
55
14
7
79
55
14
9
79
55
14
5
Temperaliirc of Air in Shade,
rogiatertd every S hours.
Mnximuiri.
32
26
28
27
27-5
28
25-5
80
22-5
20'5
31-5
31
S3' 5
33
44
40
21
24
15
18
86
23
17-5
31
32
32
.SO '5
36
43
41
41
Mtnimiiin.
44
o
36
2S-5
25
21
24-5
25-5
20'5
18
16
16'5
21
30
27-5
25-5
80
14
15
I5.i
12
13
16
16-5
12'S
11
27
26-5
29-5
29
32
35
30
Mean.
Temperature of Sea Water at
Surface, registered every 3 huura.
Maximum.
12
29 3
21'1
26-3
25-5
25-5
26-9
22-9
19-3
19-4
18'6
27-3
30'5
31-2
27-9
38 '3
25-5
17-8
19-3
14-2
15-8
20-6
19-2
149
25-2
30' 1
30- 1
35 '3
32-9
364
38-7
38-7
26- 1
89-5
40
.39
87
80-5
SO
29
29^
29J
28J
29
30
30
80
31
29}
29
28
28^
28^
29
29
29
29.1
29
30
31
SO
SO
31
82
Minimum.
Mean.
40
38
37
35
33
88-5
88
28
88
28
28
88
89
29
29
29
88
28
88
28
28
28
28
28
28
89
29
29
29
29.i
30
30
88
S8-8
,39 -0
37-6
85-1
29-8
29-1
28-7
28-3
28-7
28
28-6
89-8
aO'S
29-5
29-9
28-6
88-2
88
28.2
88-8
28-2
28-6
286
28'8
29
29 2
29-5
29-5
29-7
30-3
31 -2
Daniell'H Ily^rnineti'
9 AM.
3 r..M.
Dew
Point.
Air.
19
14
20
22
20
17
20
30
10
15
m-\
25-5
81
26
87-5
22
18
22
82
14
18
Dew
Point.
16
17
22
22
25
19
II
12
10
10
15
25
SO
.\ir.
21
27-5
20-5
25
28
22'5
20
18-5
19
15'5
25'j
30
METEOROLOGY.
155
■-
—
IP
IIECLA AT SE^
Til OF MAY, 1827.
■ ,ns MAJESTY'S SII
\, DURING THE M0>
KEPT ON BOARD | '"
■ —
Prevailini Winds.
■"
cU'm HytjriMiiftiT.
^^■l•athl•r.
Uemarks, Sic.
I.
3 I'.M.
Direction.
Velocity.
D.w
(lint. '^"•
o
O
NNE.
Moderate.
Cloudy, and snow.
NNE.
Moderate.
Cloudy, and snow.
16 '
n
NNE.
Moderate.
Si)ually, and snow.
25-5
17
n-5
NNE.
Fresh.
Siiually, and snow.
21
22
id- 5
NEasterly.
Light.
Overcast.
Several pieces of drift ice seen.
26
22
i5
NE.
Modernto.
Cloudy.
Squally, with snow at times.
27 '5
25
28
( A.M. NNE.
r.M. NNW.
Fresh.
Moderate.
■
Cloudy, and snow.
A Parhelion to the right of 0.
22
19
22'5
A.M. NW.
\ P.M. SW.
f
Moderate.
Cloudy.
Snow at times.
18
11
20
A.M. Northerly.
P.M. NW.
1
Fresh.
S(iually, and snow.
22
AM. M'NW.
PM. SW.
A.M. SE.
P.M SW.
SEastetly.
A.M
1 P.M. SW.
• 1
Fresh.
Moderate.
Fresh.
Moderate.
Fresh.
f Calm.
I Lie;ht.
)
Overcast, and snow at times.
Hazy, and snow.
Squally, w ith sleet and snow .
Thick fog.
J
Cloudy.
SWcslerly.
( A.M. Moderate.
I P.M. Stroriff.
Cloudy,and heavy squalls.
A.M. SSW.
P.M. SSW.
Do.
Do.
Moderate.
Fine, clear.
j A.M. SW.
P.M. NW.
Fresh.
Do.
Cloudy, and small snow.
Moderate.
82
12
18'5
1 A.M. NEasterly.
P.M. West.
Light.
Fine and clear.
10
19
1
NWesterly.
Moderate.
Fine and clear.
f Parhelion on each side of ©, angular distance
I 22° 28'.
10
15-5
. .■
■
West.
Fresh.
Thick, and snow.
1 11
West.
SWcsterly.
Moderate.
Light.
Thick, and snow.
Hazy.
Snow at times.
15 255
NEasterly.
Light.
Fine, clear.
1 18
Easterly.
Easterly.
Light.
Light.
f A.M. Thick, hazy. 1
\ P.M. Fine. i
Cloudy.
Fog hanging over the land.
25
30
I A.M. Calm.
I P.M. SEaaterly.
Southerly.
Light.
Light.
1
Cloudy,
Overcast.
St)
1
'( A.M. NWesterly.
,1 P.M. Easterly.
NEasterly.
■
Lieht.
Light.
Fine.
Cloudy.
Snow at times.
1
1 A.M. NEasterly.
■ I P.M. WNW.
Light.
Fine and clear.
Fog over land.
1
Easterly.
Light.
Fine and clear.
; 1
NEasterly.
Light.
Clear.
. ...
J
1
^^^
''-I ii-
sf 1 1 '■ 1
m
w>. )
''
'» '
Iff I' I
i
f
i 2 ;:
156
Days.
1
8
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
1»
15
16
17
IS
19
20
81
32
23
21
25
26
27
28
29
30
North
I.iil tiiJp.
O '
79 51
79 58
79 50
79 19
79 19
79 49
79 50
80 17
80 31
80 16
80 29
80 34
80 47
80 49
80 35
80 49
80 10
79 59
APPENDIX.— No. I.
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT ON BOAIID
Hint
Longitude.
Toniin'r;itiirpof Air in Shftilt*.
rt'Kibtwri'J t'vi'ry *J hours.
In llucla
> / //
) 79 55 8
14 12
11 SO
14 48
15 II
15 17
15 22
15 SO
16 19
17 32
17 18
17 44
19 11
18 22
19 7
19 35
20 27
17 23
17 16
.Maxiinuni.
.Mininiuiit.
Cove
1°6 53 40
43
SO
46
35
43
35
46
85
48
30
42
37
42
37
43
88
38
31
83
31
32
30
34
30
32
30
32
28
28
24
31
25
34
25i
86
33
36
32^
40
32
38
sii
46
83
53
34
47
37
41
34i
42
38
41i
35
35
S3
27
33
33
31
S3
Menu.
24
o
40' 3
39' 5
38-7
38-7
43-9
39
40
40' 1
33-5
Sl-9
31
32*1
31
SO-5
2G-2
26-C
39'S
33-8
3S'7
35'2
36-4
38' 1
43-5
41
89-5
39-4
38-9
33-9
34-7
858
35-8
Tcmpf rstiire of flm-Wiitf r »t
Surfiii-'e, rpgiatt'red every 3 botirit.
.Mnximum.
Minimum.
o
S3
32
32
33
31
82
33
32
31^
82
32
32
32
32
32
32}
32 i
32
32
32
82
33
33i
33
33
32 i
33
32
32
32
33-5
o
31
82
SO
30
29. i
80
29
30
29.1
31
80 1
801
801
81
39
81
31
31
81
31
31
Sli
31
311
33
33
811
311
32
31
29
Menn.
31-6
S3
31-2
31
80-4
30-6
31-2
30-8
80-6
31-5
31'2
31-2
31-5
31 -9
30-5
31-6
31-3
81-3
31-3
31-5
31-6
82
32 -3
32 -3
82-5
32-2
82- 1
31-8
32
81-9
31-5
DanieU'a Hygromctir.
9 A.M. 3 P.M.
UewPt.
Air,
36
33
34
4S
89
40
Dowl'l. Air,
81
35
85
4S.5
II
■10
KEPT ON BOARD
tnivU'ii Hygromi'tiT.
METEOROLOGY.
157
HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP
IIECL.\. AT SEA, DUllIXG THE MONTH OF JUNE, 1827.
rrf\iiilirig W'iniU.
Weather.
Remarka. &c.
Direction.
Vi.liicity.
A.M. NWfstuily.
I P.M. Cilllll.
A.M. Calm.
P.M. S.K.
Liicht.
j
Overcast.
At 2 P.M. a shower of rain.
l're»h.
• I
I'ine.
A.M. Soiitliurly. 1
P.M. NWi'Hlcriv. /
Light.
Fine.
3'<15 A.M. a >light shower fornhout ID luiniilos. 1
A.M. SWcsteily. 1
I P.M. SiMlllllTljr. f
Light.
Cloudy.
Light rain at times.
Soiillu'ily.
Light.
Cloudy.
, A.M. Nortlicrly.
1 P.M. ANi'stcily.
Light.
Cloudy, nnd rain at times.
Northerly.
r.ight.
Cloudy.
Nortlierly.
Light.
Cloudy, rain at times.
.Southerly.
Moderate.
( Cloudy, with sleet, rain,
( and snow.
Westerly.
Moderate.
Hazy, and snow.
wsw.
Moderate.
Thick, and snow.
( A.M. Cnhii.
1 P.M. NKnsierly.
Light.
•
Ilnzy, and snow.
Northerly.
r.ight.
Thick fog, nnd snow.
NNW.
Light.
Overcast, fog at limes.
Westerly.
Light.
Ilazy, and small snow.
Kasterly.
Moderate.
Cloudy.
Occasional snow.
Easterly.
Moderate.
A.M. Thick fog.
i".M. I'ine.
SKaslerly.
Moderate.
Cloudy.
Light rain in the evening.
SKasterly.
Moderate.
Cloudy.
NNE.
Light.
Fine, and clear.
Northerly.
Light.
Fine.
Northerly.
Light.
Fine, clear.
(.'aim.
. . , .
.
Fine, clear.
NNE.
Moderate.
Cloudy.
Fog hanging over the land.
NNE.
Light.
Overcast.
Easterly.
Moderate.
Cloudy.
A.M. ("aim.
P.M. N.E.
Light.
Cloudy.
NNW.
Light.
Foggy, and snow.
Round the com|)a.ss.
{
A.M. Light.
I-.M. Krish.
■,
Cloudy.
NNE.
Moderate.
Cloudy.
I!'
fill I
h '^
I ' ; 11
"! ^
■^
'■'<■!',, «
■•■i .
158
APPENDIX.— No. I.
AHSTIIACT OF TMK METKOROI.OOICAL JOURNAL KEPT ON HOARD IIIS MAJi:sTY.S mii
_
l>l)a
Nnrlh
I.lll'lU.l.'.
l■:;l^l
Tprnpiirritiirf of Air in Slmilo,
riyi^tiTnl evpry ii lumrn.
Ti»mppratnro iif Sou- Wntcr Hi
Surface, rpffintfrinl vvt'ty 'J liotiri*.
Wtnthft.
Maniiiiuiii
1
1
.Miliiimiiii
Mean.
.Maxiiitiltn
.Miiiiiniiin.
iMian.
.luly
1
\
o
3H
o
S2
o
S3 -2
o
83
o
32
32-5
Pine, clear.
2
43,J
.S3
37 '6
38
82
32-8
Fine.
3
42
S5
,S9'7
81
32
32-8
i lliu), rnin, anil xjeut al
I times.
1
,S7i
3S
33-8
31
32
33 -7
Clouily.
5
45
32
38-7
35
33
83 '9
Fine, clear.
fl
45
38
42- 1
35
83
84-2
( Fine. 1
1 Cloudy. (
7
44
38
40-9
83
30.1
38 4
Cloudy, light rnin.
8
42i
38
39-8
32
30
811
Cloudy.
9
5,S
87
43-2
83
32
823
Cloudy.
10
47
37
40-5
87
39
84 -0
Overcast, and fotr.
11
51
39
42-9
81
32i
33 -4
Cloudy.
12
52
42
47-9
40
31
3I-9
I Cloudv.
\ Clear.
I.'i
50
40
45-8
35
88
SfO
Cloudy.
It
46
39
422
38
S3
85 -9
Cloudy, slight rain.
15
1 in llocln
Cove.
SO
S3
.37 -0
36
84
St-7
Foggy.
IG
10/ //
,79 55 8
16 48 45\
50
40
46- 1
40
87
38'7
Fine, clear.
17
49
43
46-9
464
31
40 '9
Fine, clear.
18
54
47
51-1
43
37
40-4
Fine, clear.
19
55
41
48-1
41
88
40-8
Cloudy.
20
' 87
34.i
36-2
39 .i
87
37 '6
Thick fog, and rain.
21
40
36
38'2
37
St
30 -2
Cloudy.
22
42
36
39-3
38
84
36-0
Fine, and clear.
23
42
38
33-8
87
35
36-5
Cloudy.
21
1 41
35
37 9
38
36
37'1
Cloudy.
25
1 42
37
39-8
39
S7
87-8
Cloudy.
26
SB
[
32
34
37
34
35-7
CIrnidy.
27
1 ''
36
38-4
38
85
86'9
Cloudy.
28
i 42
35
38' 1
38
81
36-2
Cloudy.
29
31
33
33-6
36
S2J
314
Snow, and sleet.
SO
34
33
32-8
35
33
34-1
Snow, and sleet.
.SI
/
1
1 38
1
33
85 9
87
35
35-4
Cloudy, and rain.
55
32
4019
! 46|
30
33-44
IS MAJKSTY S Ml
y, rnin, nnil sleot at
times.
MKTKOROLOdY.
l.V.)
IIUCLA. IX IIECLA COVK. SPlTZIMMKiKN. DUIUN(i TIIK MONTI! OF MIA, IH27.
Prrvallinn WinJi.
Dir.'rtlon.
NNK.
Noillicrly.
Kustcrly .
N Westerly.
Northerly.
A.M. N Westerly.
I'.M.
F.iislerly.
SSK.
Sl'.nslerly.
SKanterly.
A.M. K.iislcrly.
P.M. NWesterly.
Sl^asterly.
A.M. SWealerly.
P.M. Lusteily.
SE.
Easterly.
Northerly.
A.M. Ciilni.
P.M. NNW.
Round the compass.
A.M. N Westerly.
P.M. SW.
A.M. Calm.
P.M. NNW.
NNE.
Easterly.
A.M.
P.M.
i:sE.
West.
AM.
P.M.
Easterly.
East.
West.
M'est.
(nlm.
Eiistirly.
SSE.
NNE.
NNW.
SE.
Velocity.
Light.
r.iicht.
Moderiilu.
Moderate.
Light.
Litfht.
Fresh
Fresli.
Fresh.
Fresh, aiul stjually.
Moderate.
r.i,'hl.
A.M. Fresh.
P..M. Sirotii; c;ules.
Fre.sh.
Moderate.
Fresh.
Litjht.
LiKht.
Light.
. . Light. . .
r.isht.
Moderate.
Lif,-ht.
Light.
Fresh.
Stroni; gales.
Fresh.
A.». I..ight.
P.M. Moderate.
Light.
Moderate.
Light.
Moderate.
Moderate.
Strong.
A.M.
P.M.
Fresh gales.
Moderate.
Li"ht.
UKMARKK.tkc.
•Mean hriiiht of ihrrilioMlcler i xixmcd lo the (^ registered \'i
tiiiii .1 IViMii iicmn till Mild .S7-'."i. .*<li> ni'nrrall'. . Irar.
* Mean height ol' llier. e\|iii.H<'d to llu' Iidim mid. till noon,
re;;istere<l H times sr'.S. !Siin nearly olisriircd luwanU noon.
* Mean lieiuht of Iheimomeler exposed to the Q from H A.M. till
mid. registered 15 times l'i°AI. Sky generally very bright.
Daniell's hygrometer shewed a mean dew point of 41°. 1 in 1.^
observations niaile belwi'en 8 a.m. and midnight, the mean
temperature of the air being, for the same times, Ifi^.S.
)l
Mean height of ther. exposed to the © registered 15 times from
5 A.M. till mid 5U. I. Sun partially clouded.
Fog at times.
Fog,roin,and snow, at ciuies.
Rain and snow.
• The bulb of the thermometer covered with black wool.
Y 2
¥
m
! M
:ti'*l
t,4
I',' ,
f'.. '■■'
i ..I
W) '"''^
I no
AIMM:\DIX.— No. I.
I '
I' , !
AUSTllVCT OF Tin: MKTEOllOUWilCAL JOUllXAL KKIT OX llOAIll) HIS MAJKSTV s jsilil'l
Dayi
Allguat I
» 2
,. »
4
,. fl
„ f'
„ 1
„ 8
,. 9
„ 10
,. 11
,, 12
„ IS
„ II
„ 15
,, 16
„ 17
„ 18
„ 19
„ 20
,, 81
., 22
„ 23
,. 21
„ 25
,, 20
,. 27
„ 28
„ 29
„ 30
.. 31
North
In Ilecla
79 65 8
RllKt
liOiiKito'U'
Cove.
16 48 45 (
79 57 45
79 46 40
79 2 19
12 40 15
10 31
7 50
Ti'iiippri
itiirt> (if Air in Sh)iil«,
tcrfi I'Vi'ry *i liourH.
Mnxiiiiutn.
10-5
4S
45
17-5
47
48
40
46
51
80
14
S7
36
87
38
42
44
38
87
S7'5
87
40
42
42
43
43
33-5
31
40
38
40
Miiiiduiiii.
SO
38
S'J
37-5
40
40
87
38
39
39
85
S3
SS-5
32
86
83
37
32
35
85
84 -5
35
84
85
41
34-5
39
89
28
86
35
51
38
Menn>
88
40-2
41
42-2
42-9
4J'0
87-5
42-8
40'2
46' 6
38 '6
3C9
35-0
84 "2
86 -0
37-7
40-7
85.7
86-4
36-6
85-4
87-2
37-6
39-5
41-7
40'0
31-3
SO-1
35.5
36'7
37-2
TeiiipurMiirc of S.'n WatiT iit Surf.nv
rrt(i..ti>ri'il Avi>ry Shniiri,
38.39
Miixiiiiiitit.
Miniiiiiiiii.
.M.MIJ.
o
37
8,5
II
40
35-5
37 H
40
88
syi)
48
89
40 '2
41
S3
S5'i)
3»
82
83' 2
36
88
31-8
42
36
3H'r,
41
38
■lOMt
42
38
lO'i)
42
37
30 • 5
39
37
SS'l
88
37
37 '7
38
36
37 'o
39
88
88'2
88
3t
36 • 8
39
86
37'8
38
35
36-8
36
34
35 'fi
37
34
3,5 '5
86
35
35'7
86-5
Si
85 S
38
81-5
36'7
375
87
370
37-5
SO
36.9
88
87
37-4
87
35
35-9
36
34
S5'5
86
86
3C-0
86
31
33'5
37
32
33 '2
42
SI
36-83
MKTT'.OnoLonY.
101
i MAJKSTY S SIlilMiU, IX HIX'LA COVK. SIMTZFIKIUIKX, AM) AT SKA, I)L IU.\(J TIIK MONTH OF AlUJlST, Is27
ti>ii Wittifr at Surfai't*.
svt-ry flliMum.
niiitiiiii.
Mi'.iii.
83
u
sr.i)
S5'5
S7 «
S8
S'JO
89
Wi
8S
3t
86
35
St
3J
35
31
81-5
37
3G
37
35
34
36
31
32
31
35' I)
832
31'8
SH'fi
lOM)
■lO'i)
39'5
38'1
87 '7
37 'J
38-2
Sfi'S
37'S
sc-»
35'(1
S5'5
35'7
85 5
3fi"7
37'0
3fi.9
37-4
35'9
85-5
SG'O
33'5
33'2
SG'83
Pri'vniliiin Win.lj.
Oinictiun.
Culm,
nonml tliu conipnax.
Itound the coni|ins!i.
SEaiterly.
SEastcrly.
SF.iutuily.
Westerly.
Calm.
A.M. Ciilm.
P.M. North.
A.M. Culm,
I'.M. NW.
NE.
NW.
WNW.
A.M. NW.
P.M. SW.
A.M. SW.
P.M. NK.
A.M. N K.
P.M. Lusierly.
SWuslerly.
M'cslerly.
West.
West.
Westerly.
SWesterly,
Culm.
A.M. tiW.
P.M. SW.
South.
Ensterly.
NNW.
Westerly.
Easterly.
Easterly.
Easterly.
Velocity.
Miuloruto.
Lit^ht.
r.iijht.
Fre.sh.
Fresh.
Light.
Light.
Fresh.
Strong gales.
Moderate.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Moderate.
Light.
Moderate.
Moderate.
Light.
Moderate.
Moderate.
Wsnthur.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Strong gales.
Strong.
Modt'rnte.
Light.
i.ight."
Light.
Light.
Moilerate.
Cloudy.
Fim.' Hiul cli'ar.
Fine anil cli'ur.
Fine and ili'ur.
Clear.
S<|uully, and clear.
Clijudy, and rain.
; A.M. Fog'.'V.
; P.M. Fine anil clear.
Flue, and clfar.
Fine, and clear.
Cloudy, and rain.
Cloudy, rain, and sleet.
Cloudy, snow, and rain.
Cloudy, and snow.
Fine. Fug over land.
Fine, and clear.
Cloudy, and snow.
Thick] and snow. 1
Fine. J
Cloudy.
Hazy, rain, and snow.
Cloudy, snow, and rain.
Cloudy. Snow at times.
A.M. Foggy.
P.M. Fine.
Fine, clear.
Fine, and clear.
Overcast.
Fine.
Cloudy, and rain.
Cloudy, and snow.
Cloudy, and snow.
Fine.
Cloudy.
Fine.
Rrinnrk*, ^c^.
At noon, thermomrter exposed to the © "i^"
• Mean height of ihcrmomeler exposed to the
sun, reu:islt'rrd Vi) times, I'luni S a.m. till mid.
(generally very cU'iir) 57". I.
* At 3 A.M. iher. exposed to the sun 63°.
• At H A.M. iher. cxptjsed to the © 89'-.
( Mean height of thermometer with a hlaikened
'. hull) expo.sed to the © registered (1 liiiics
I from 9 A.M. till 6 P.M. 5I\3.
• The bulb of the thermometer covered with black wool.
III
■I 1' I
■ ii\
( ■
r
I i
162
APPENDIX.— No. I.
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY'S
SHIP HECLA, AT SEA, DURING A PART OF THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER. 1H27.
Dnys.
Sep.
1
2
North
Latitude.
Longitude.
77 29 36
74 40 54
72 13
70 15 48
60 57 56
68 41 2
C8 44 32
67 66 56
9 67 82 29
10
II
12
67 5 42
66 55 56
66 83 26
IS 64 47 14
14
15
16
63 46 38
63 6 1
68 S 26
' //
8 7 9 E.
6 40 54 „
S 59 „
4 7 6,,
% \ 54 „
58 30 „
22 42 „
S3 SO „
51 42 W
2 58 30 „
3 43 2 „
2 27 48 „
47 19 „
1 2 19 „
1 26 13 „
Temperature of Air
in shade, registered erery
3 hours.
Max.
38
37
40
45i
46
46
Min.
Mean.
36
34
84
44
S3
Ti'uiperature of Sea Water
tit Surface, registered
every 2 hours.
49 46
51
50
50. i
50
49
18
51
51
48
48
49
S7-0
35'8
36-5
43'1
44-5
44-0
47-0
49-2
49-0
49-4
Mas.
Min.
Mean.
o
41
45
47
46
48
39
39
39
45i
45
45
Prevailing Winds.
Direction.
Velocity.
Weather.
481 471
49
48 49-2
40
43
47
47
54 50
5t
34
48'0
4G-0
49-5
49-2
52-6
45'C2
48
48J
48
48-5
51
51'5
50
52
47
47
47
46
48
48
49
40-4
40 '4
42-2
46-3
45-4
46-4
48'0
482
47-8
47-8
475
47 7
48-8
49'2
49- I
NWestcrly.
NWesterly.
WNW.
West.
WNW.
NWesterly. Light.
Kii'sh.
Moderate.
Strong.
Light.
moderate.
19 51-3
52 3'J
4fi-f8
sw.
sw.
Southerly.
SSE.
Southerly.
SWeslerly.
WNW.
, .\.a. SSR.
\p.M. SWIy.
wsw.
SWestcrly.
Moderate.
Fresh.
Fresh. Cloudy
Cloudy and rain.
Cloudy, sli'Ct, and rain.
Squally, sleet at times.
Thick, and rain.
Cloudy.
Overcast.
^'oggy•
Hazy.
Fresh.
Thick, and rain.
Fresh. Tliick,with heavy rain.
Moderate.
Fresh.
Fresh.
Moderate.
Moderate.
Cloudy.
Squally, rain at times.
Thick fog, and rain.
Overcast.
Moderate, Hazy, and rain.
IJESTY'S
:. 1H27.
t^eathtr.
ind rain.
ill ut, ami rain,
sleet at timea.
nd rain.
>nd rain.
ith heavy rain.
ram at times.
ig, and rain.
nd ruin.
II.
«OARD THE HECLA. AND THE DETERMINATION
OF THE LONGITUDES.
'(iH'l
J'
H|i't'
mi
I
1(11
APPENDIX— No. II.
NOTICE RESPECTING THE CHRONOMETERS, &c.
W:
H:|,.
\--A
t ^ ' ;
I Ml
The number of Chronometers furnished by Government to the Expedition on
this occasion, was six, the whole being pocket watches ; of these, Messrs. Par-
kinson and Frodsham were directed to prepare two, the dial plates of which
were to have the hours from 1 to 24 marked on them, a precaution intended
to provide against the possibility of incurring an error of twelve hours, when
travelling over the ice towards the Pole. The rest were directed to be supplied
from the Royal Observatory at Greenwich ; but it so happened that, a little
before the time of embarkation, the chronometers intended for the use of the Ex-
pedition were going irregularly, — a circumstance which, at this advanced state of
the equipment, would have been attended with very serious inconvenience, had it
not been for the liberal offer of Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham to supply the
number required, at their own risk. However, the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, on becoming acquainted with the circumstances of the case, immedi-
ately directed the chronometers in question to be purchased of Messrs. Parkinson
and Frodsham ; and these, with five others, (three of which belonged to the same
makers, the other two to Captain Parry and Lieutenant Foster,) were embarked
on board the Hccla at Deptford, on the '24th of INIarch, 1827, where, as in the
former voyages to the Arctic Seas, they were placed in small canvas cots, lined
with baize, and suspended in Captain Parry's cabin.
The rates being furnished by the makers, the error of each on mean time at
Greenwich was ascertained, by comparison with the Observatory clock, on the
same day ; they were afterwards wound up daily at noon, by Lieutenants
Foster and Crozier, and compared with a box Chronometer (No. 259) belonging
to Captain Parry, considered as a standard.
The first place at which the Expedition touched, after leaving England, was
Hammerfcst in Lapland, where observations for the rates and errors of the
CHRONOMETERS, &c.
165
chronometers on mean time at Fuglencss were made, on the 20th and 27th of
April, by Captain Parry and Lieutenant Foster. From these observations it
was ascertained, that all the watches had in a slight degree altered their rates ;
but that a more considerable change had taken place in the rates of four of them ;
which circumstance had, indeed, been pointed out by the daily comparisons,
soon after they were put on board at Dcptford. These four were therefore
rejected in the determination of the longitude of this place, which has been
calculated from the observations on the 20th, and employing a mean between the
rates furnished by the makers, and those obtained here. The longitude thus
deduced from the mean of seven chronometers, in which the greatest difference
did not exceed four seconds of time, appears to be 23° 45' 40,5" East. This
longitude, it may be observed, is almost identical with Captain Sabine's deter-
mination in 1823; a coincidence which must be regarded as a satisfactory
corroboration of the accuracy of the longitude of Fair Haven, in Spitzbergen,
on which the correctness of his measure is stated to depend.
On the arrival of the Hecla on the Western Coast of Spitzbergen on the 13th
of May, the six chronometers provided for Captain Parry's use were given to the
respective officers of his Expedition, to wear in their pockets ; in order that, if their
rates should be found to alter by this circumstance, others might be furnished
from the daily comparisons with the remaining five, which were still kept in
their usual places in the cabin. It is, however, highly creditable to the makers
of these excellent chronometers, Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, that this
precaution proved unnecessary, as each was found to preserve its rate extremely
well, except in one instance, when it appeared, that on the 30th of May, one of
them, from some unknown cause, stopped whilst in the pocket; this was re-
placed by another of their construction, which was found to go equally well
with the rest.
The next station visited by the Expedition, at which the rates of the
chronometers were ascertained, was Hecla Cove, on the North Coast of Spitz-
bergen, where the Hecla arrived on the 19th of June ; but, from unavoidable
circumstances, the necessary observations were not commenced before the 21st,
on which day, Captain Parry set out on his attempt to reach the North Pole,
Z
1^1: i
?•'■■
(in* I
1, ■'!
m.
!,;;*!
%
>'ii.
■'I ■
iikJ
1 I
""'' '1.
ft'..:.;
166
APPENDIX.— No. II.
leaving four of the steadiest-going chronometers on board, by which the meridian
distance of this place from Hammerfest was ascertained in the following
manner.
The error of each chronometer on Greenwich mean time, at noon on the
13th of May, was deduced from the mean of all the watches, by employing
the data furnished at Hammerfest, and the daily comparisons of each with
No. 259, previously to their being worn in the pocket as already stated. The
errors thus computed, being considered the actual errors of the respective
watches on Greenwich mean time at noon on the 13th of May, the longitude
of Hecla Cove was determined by taking a mean between the observed rates
at Hammerfest and Hecla Cove, for their actual rates in the interval between
the ' 13th of May and 21st of June. The longitude of the FlagstaflF thus
determined, was 16° 52' 45" E. ; but from a subsequent determination, on the
arrival of the Expedition in Balta Sound, Shetland, in September, where obser-
vations were made in the morning of the 19th, at Mr. Edmonstone's house,
Buness*, it was ascertained to be 16" 48' 45" E., from the mean of nine chro-
nometers in an interval of twenty-five days. This determination is considered
preferable to a mean of both, in consequence of the greater number of watches
employed, and the direct manner in which it was obtained.
It may also be observed, that the longitudes of the different places laid down
in the accompanying Chart of the North Coast of Spitzbergen, are all dependent
on the longitude of Hecla Cove, considered as a first meridian ; from which
their respective meridian distances were ascertained, by the going of three
chronometers in short intervals of time.
There being no Longitudes of Places dependent upon the going of the chro-
nometers employed by Captain Parry, it has not been thought necessary to
enter at large into the detail of their rates : it is sufficient to mention, that, under
the severe trial to which these watches were subjected, the boats made Little
Table Island, to a surprising degree of exactness, after an absence of fifty days,
as will be seen by reference to the foregoing narrative.
* The longitude of this spot, from the Trigonometrical Survey of Great Britain, is 0" 51' 57.3" W.
ij.;..\j
in.
OBSERVATIONS O.N THE DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE.
Z2
fl ' 1
168
APPENDIX.— No. III.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE.
.
The observations contained in the following Table on the Dip of the Magnetic
Needle, were made by Captain Parry and Lieutenant Foster. Those by Captain
Parry were obtained with an instrument constructed by Mr. Jones, which was
furnished with three rectangular needles, each four inches in length, two-tenths
broad, and one-twentieth in thickness ; of these, one was used exclusively for
observations on Intensity, the other two for the Dip. There was a line drawn
on each of the needles in the direction of their longitudinal axes, which served
as an index ; and the graduated circle was divided to every fifteen minutes of a
degree, which could be read with tolerable precision to every three minutes.
Each of the observations in the eighth column of the Table is the mean of five
readings with the face of the instrument on each side of the meridian, and the
needles reversed on their axes in the two positions.
The observations by Lieutenant Foster were made with an instrument be-
longing to the Board of Longitude, which was constructed by DoUond; it
had also three needles, each of which was a parallelopipedon six inches
long, four-tenths broad, and one-twentieth in thickness : of these, one was
selected for the observations on Intensity, and, consequently, its poles were
never inverted, nor its magnetism in other respects interfered with ; the other
two were employed for the Dip, the results of which, given in the eighth
column, are the mean of six readings with the face of the instrument on each side
of the vertical, and the needles reversed on their axes in the two positions, both
before and after inverting their poles. Besides these observations, the Dip was
also deduced by the Intensity needle, in the usual way, without reversing the
NIJ
MAGNETIC DIP.
169
poles, as well as from the times it required to perform a certain number of
vertical and horizontal oscillations in the meridian, at the different places of
observation.
In consequence of the needles employed for Intensity by each observer,
having lost part of their magnetism during the voyage, no comparison of the
intensity of the force soliciting the Dipping-needle at the different stations visited
on this occasion can be made. It may, however, be useful to state (as evi-
dencing the necessity of employing needles that have been long in use, in
preference to new ones for such purposes) the amount of change that each of the
needles had undergone. That employed by Captain Parry made ten vibrations
in 23.54 seconds, in March, 1827, at Northfleet ; but in October following,
it required 25.47 seconds to perform that number, on the same spot. The
needle employed by Lieutenant Foster exhibited a still greater change ;
the time of its performing ten vibrations, in March, at Northfleet, was 28.93
seconds, but in October, it was 31.33 seconds. Thus the great changes of
Intensity which the needles had themselves suffered, prevent any conclusions
being drawn on the Intensity, as above stated.
I
I' 'I
III
1
'.^h
'if*
111! I'i
I, !\
m
:(f'i
iil;,
I''
il
ik^
I *i
I I
I (
i
170
APPENDIX.— No. III.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE.
Ii,v,.
Time.
Mnicli ur,
h m h in
I -811 lo S P.M.
-
27
.5TJ
1*
8 A.M.
..
j»
11) ST
V
II- 15 A.M.
,.
M
Noon
V
1-5 P.M.
tl
1»
r20
M
ris P.M.
()
J'
2-28
^>
4-52 P.M.
April 80
SMS
1}
fi'35 P.M.
.■
If
6-53
tt
8-8 P.M.
M
21
10-8
»>
10' 35 A.M.
•.
IJ
4'30
I*
5-SO P.M.
•■
20
4'30
fiSO
>•
6 30 P.M.
7-50 P.M.
..
21
9
II
11 A.M.
..
21
10
Jl
11-30 A.M.
July
5
7
A.M.
12
8
to
9 A.M.
i*
21
7
»
8-30 A.M.
»'
an
7
•15 P.M
i*
27
1
to
2 A.M.
Au^.
11
7
Jl
9 A.M.
»»
15
8
1)
9-30 P.M.
July
3
10
Jl
10-35 A.M.
)•
V
1-50
JJ
3-30 P.M.
>J
J'
fi'SO
Jl
7-30 P.M.
)'
6
.S'22
II
5-34 P.M.
Au;;-.
22
IMS
»
5-30 P.M.
>»
j»
3
Jl
5 P.M.
Oct.
8
9'30
11
11-20 A.M.
M
J)
II'SOa
.M
.to 0-50 P.M.
I»
J'
lO-OO
to
11-30 A.M.
)'
M
Noon
Jl
1-20 P.M,
J)
9
0.10
II
10-10 A.M
3)
)t
1-30
p.
«. to 2-.i0
Latiliiilc
Nortli.
} . At North
\
)
At Ku(flenc8s,
O t II
70 40 H
81 43 15
82 14 98
82 39 10
82 40 23
80 34 30
80 17 10
Hocl.-i
79 55 8
. At Nortli
LiiiigituiU
Kiwt.
flt'Ct
Hammi'rfe.'it,
O t II
23 J5 40
21 33 7
22 3 53
19 52 13
19 25 3
19 52
18 12 15
Cove.
o / « S
16 48 45
Qcct. .
P
P
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
R
P
P
P
F
F
F
F
P
P
F
F
C
C
F
F
'A
Ti'iiipp-
rat 11 re
of the
Inwtni-
mi'nt.
P. 2.
o
50
P. 3.
48
F. 2.
48
F.l.
49
F.S.
48
F. 3.
47-8
F.l.
SI
F. 2.
29-5
F.S.
29-5
F.S.
28
P. 2.
80-5
P. 1.
31
P. 3.
29-5
P. 8.
.30
P. 2.
34
P. 2.
37-5
P. 2.
34
P. 2.
35
P. 3.
31 J
P. 2.
37
P. 2.
.S5
F.S.
51i
F.2.
48
F.l.
42 -S
F.S.
66
P. 2.
41
P. 3.
56
P. 2.
60. i
P. 3.
611
F. 2.
61
F. 1.
57i
F.S.
60
F. 3.
003
Observed
Nortli Dip.
Moan
North Dip.
69 53-19
69 45-89
69 54-9
69 43-9
69 4S-S
69 46-3
77 7'8
77 20-6
76 54-74
76 39 -S
77 34-85
77 3-83
77 40-18
77 16-28
82 4-71
82 16-26
82 21-85
82 21-79
82 21-47
81 21-19
81 2287
80 40-16
80 47-9"
80 45-88
80 49-7
81 0-28
81 8-83
70 2-4
69 44-4
69 28-2
CO 51-3
70 55
60 53-5
O '
69 10 -84
69 46-8
.77 0-53
.77 23-78
82 4-71
82 16-26
82 21-85
82 21-63
81 2119
81 22-87
80 45-91
R KM AUKS.
) In a field ni-ur tlip KivorTliamcs.
By hoiizuntui and vertical vibrations.
By horizontal and vertical vihrations,
On the ice.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
On the soiitli-eiist point of Walden
Island (Spilzliergun).
West point of Low Island (iliitn).
By horizontal and vertical vibrations.
81 4-58
69 53-4
1 In a field near the River Thames,
69 50-1
By horizontal and vertical vibrations
RKMAllK!^.
irlhe River Thames
I and »eriicnl vibrations
and vertical vilirations.
east poiiK ut Waldcn
cliergun).
Low Island (iliitu).
md vertical vibralinns
he River Thatiii's.
nd vertical vibrations.
IV.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION OK THE MAGNETIC NEEI.1 E
MADE ON SHORE, OR ON THE ICE, 1827.
A«,.-TI,e i„i,i.|, i„ ,1.,. c„|„,„„ „, „ (,,,„ ,^,,. ^^, .
Captain Variy.
I'icutonant Ross.
I-'ieutenaiu I'osler.
I-ieutenant Crozitr.
«
hj
i
iS ,1.
■
172
APPENDIX.— No. IV.
I '•
!/l-
Ji -^'
OBSERVATIONS ON THE VARIATION OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE, MADE ON SHORE.
OR ON THE ICE, 1827.
Lntituile
Longitude
i
vi
1 s
WitTiRt.T Variation.
DATE.
Tl
HP.
Norlli.
Eaut.
i
^1
RK.MARKS.
o
^d
Observed.
Me.in.
1827.
< "
< "
No
' //
Q 1 tl
~
April 91
„ 92
8.50
7.47
P.M.
A.M.
I 69 57 37
83 26
t;
2
5
2
8
9 31
10 18
1 9 SI 30
At Bosecop, L.npl.ind.
„ 9S
6.0
»
i>
5
4
10 31
t* II
O.SO
19
p
.1
4
10 37
•t ft
2.0
P.M.
V
6
1
10 48
ft S*
2.15
if
V
6
1
10
V f*
2.20
y%
V
6
4
10 39 SO
t* 't
2. SO
91
, 70 40 8
23 45 40
1''
6
4
10 9 36
10 14 19
At Fuglcnoss. Hammerfesl.
,, 91
CO
A.M.
V
f.
1
10 R
f} ty
6.15
it
V
6
1
9 45
*t n
7.50
a
V
5
5
10 12
If ft
8.0
M
V
5
.1
9 13
., 87
7.40
a
H
6
5
10 SI
May 17
8.12
a
79 56 SO
13 18
r
10
1
22 42
22 42
On ice, 300 ynrcis N.E. of the ship.
June 2
9.28
ii
711 52 40
14 84
F
6
1
21 19
24 12
On ice, 300 yards N. of the sliip.
., fi
6.36
»
79 49
15 25
F
7
1
18 51
IS 51
Ditto ditto.
.. 8
5.11
5.19
P.M.
. 79 49 38
15 36
l>
F
6
7
1
1
18 18
U) 2 30
} 18 10 .30
900 yards 8.E. of the ship, upon the Ice.
," 1(5
2.0
2.15
i*
fi
80 35 38
19 51 16
F
4
6
1
I
17 31
17 53
17 42
f On shore, N.E. point of Walden Island,
I Spitzbergen.
„ 29
7
7.6
A.M.
81 99
21 32 34
K
P
5
5
3
3
IS .39 52
15 2»
15 30 56
On the ice.
July 5
7.0
a
81 45 15
24 23 7
P
R
5
5
S
3
12 33
13 58 28
1 18 15 44
Ditto.
„ 10
0.46
>i
82 8 20
23 17 16
K
5
3
13 41 11
18 41 11
Ditto.
» 18
6.S
6.17
a
82 14 28
22 8 53
P
R
6
5
3
3
15 13
11 59 18
15 6 1
Ditto.
„ Ifi
5> »f
.. 21
7.20
7.. SO
7.40
99
it
.82 26 44
82 39 10
20 32 13
19 52 13
R
P
R
5
5
5
S
3
3
16 45 15
18 10
19 4 83
} 17 27 87
19 4 33
Ditto.
Ditto.
„ 26
e.o
6.S
it
»f
82 40 23
19 25 3
P
R
5
5
3
3
17 57
18 22 47
18 9 53
Ditto.
„ 31
6.40
6.44
P.M.
82 14 25
17 18 19
P
R
3
5
3
3
22 30
22 16 .33
22 28 16
Ditto.
Aug. 2
7.0
A.M.
82 6
IT 45 33
R
6
3
20 46 54
20 46 54
Ditto.
ft ft
6., SI
6,.S5
)9
St
81 67 31
17 56 23
R
P
5
7
8
3
20 IS 90
20 31 17
20 84 48
Ditto.
July SO
4.0
P.M.
F
6
1
19 53
Aug. 9
5.16
A.M.
F
6
1
18 53
M ff
5.48
if
F
6
1
18 3
„ 10
1.0
P.M.
C
10
1
19 9
t) »
1.15
n
C
1 ^
10
10
1
9
19 6
18 48
„ 15
5 to 6
2 to 3
P.M.
yy
79 55 8
16 53 40
10
10
10
2
4
4
18 58
18 22
18 8
\l3 46 19
i At theObservatory,FIeclaCove,Spit2.
( bergen.
Ic
10
4
18 27
( ^
10
4
18 56
.. 16
9 to 10.30 A.M. 1
c
10
4
19 17
lo
10
4
19 4
« 20
9 to 10
9>
1 c
10
10
4
4
18 27
18 2
,, 14
11.38
P.M.
79 54 50
17 29
F
5
1
17 49
17 49
On shore, entrance lo Waygatz Strait.
„ 16
0-26
iy
79 36 46
17 53 55
F
5
1
17 20
17 90
On shore in Bear Bay,Waygatz Strait.
„ 20
11.44
A.M.
79 34 30
19 17
F
8
1
15 40
15 40
On shore, on one of Foster's Islands, do,
■iy
VvM'-
)N SHORE,
?MARK8.
m'v
nplnnd.
lamtnerffst.
ds N.E. of the ship.
Js N. of the ship,
litlo.
flhe ship, upon the ice.
point of Walden Island,
>ry,HeclaCove,Spii2.
ice to Waygatz Strait,
r Bay, Waygatz Strait.
1 of Foster's Islands, do,
V.
LIEUTENANT (NOW COMMANDER) FOSTERS ACCOUNT OF THE
OBSERVATIONS BY LIEUTENANT CROZIER AND HIMSELF,
ON THE DIURNAL VARIATION OF THE HORIZONTAL
MAGNETIC NEEDLE AT SPITZBERGEN, 1827.
\:%
m
M
^m
! R
2A
'J
I
ill
i : '
174
APPENDIX.— No. V.
: i'
1 1
■ (
•^i
in ■ , i
f!
i ■
ACCOUNT or TIIK ORSERV VTIONS ON THE DIUKNAL VARIATION OF
THE HOIU/ONTAI. MA(i\KTIC NKEOI.K AT SinT/.nER(,KN. 1827
The only opportunity which the present voyage afforded for observations of this
nature, was at Hechi Cove, on tlie North Coast of Spitzbergen, where Hia
Majesty's Ship Hecia remained during the absence of Captain Parry, in his
attempt to reach tlie North Pole. It is to be regretted that, in consequence of
the interference of other duties, these observations were not continued longer
than eleven days ; they were, however, carefully made by Lieutenant Crozier and
myself, with an instrument the property of the Board of Longitude, constructed
by Mr. Dollond, and which former experience had enabled me to contrive. It is
chiefly composed of wood and ivory, without metal of any kind ; the needle six
inches long, and very light, is suspended within a cubical box having glass
sides, by a silk fibre fiileen inches in length, passing over a pulley at the top
of the box, and having an exact counterpoise of ivory for the whole weight of
the needle attached to its other extremity. In the top of the box, a compound
microscope is fitted directly over each end of the needle ; in both these micro-
scopes a fine wire is also fixed in the common focus of their respective glasses ;
so that at the time of observation, the wires are brought to coincide suc-
cessively with the line drawn on the north and south ends of the needle. The
reading is on opposite arcs of a circle of thirteen inches radius, divided into
spaces of ten minutes, which are again subdivided into ten seconds, by means of
verniers attached to the box, and moving with the microscopes.
This instrument, which was found to answer the purpose extremely well, was
secured to a firm support, fixed into the ground ; and was protected from the
weather by a square canvas tent, placed in a situation remote from any local
interference. Both ends of the needle were observed ar:d recorded ; but the
viean of these observations only is inserted in the following Table. The zero
of the scale being placed to the East of North, the higher numbers indicate
the greatest westerly position of the north end of the needle, and the lower
of
MACiXKTIC NKF-DIJ'.
17:)
numbers the most eastern limit of the same. In doducinf^ the amount of the
maximum easterly and westerly daily change, I have assumed for the direction
of the magnetic meridian, or zero of the scale, the mean of the readings at
the hours when the sun bore North and South by compass, ami which was
found to be 2° 11)' 12". Employing this zero, it appears that the needle
is deflected more to the East than to the West of the magnetic meridian ; a
circumstance, the reverse of that which took place in our observations at Port
Bowen. It will also be seen on looking over these observations, that the amount
of the daily variation was generally about 1° 32', varying from 2° IH', to 0" 52' ;
and that from the mean of all the observations, the time of maximum easterly
variation occurred at about half past four A.M., and of the maximum westerly
at about five, P.M. The times on each day, however, at which these
phenomena have been observed to take place, have varied in the easterly posi-
tion of the needle from l"" to 7'' A.M., and from P' to 9'' P.M., in its westerly
direction. It is, nevertheless, a coincidence worthy of notice, that the means
of these tinics thus obtained, should correspond with the times of the day when
the sun is East and West by compass.
Besides these observations, another series on this subject was made at the
same time by Lieutenant Crozier and myself, with a needle having its directive
force reduced in the ratio of 0.09 to 1 nearly, by the application of a powerful
bar magnet ; with a view to ascertain precisely the hours of the day, at which the
needle successively arrived at its greatest easterly and westerly positions. The
great amount, however, of the diurnal changes in the direction of the horizontal
needle that we found at this place, has rendered these observations of less
importance than would otherwise have been the case, had its amount not ex-
ceeded two or three minutes of a degree. It will, therefore, be sufficient to state,
that the times of maximum effect by this needle, agree on most occasions with
those deduced from the above observations ; and that the discrepancies in this
respect, are doubtless attributable to the circumstances which I have already
pointed out in the Phil. Trails, for 1826, viz., from the observations on each
needle not being made simultaneously, as well as from the minuteness of some
of the phenomena which affect the needle, being only observable when its
directive energy is nearly neutralized.
2 A2
•I'i
I
I '
m
i l;! J
Mi
;• m
jikj
' tr
m
m
-1
: i
I":
I ft .:
'1 . ■,
■JV ?
176
APPENDIX.— No. V.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIURNAL VARIATION oAuE H
Mean Temp, j
Hour
....|
DATK.
A.M.
o
13' 8
h
I
Position of
North end
of Needle.
o
4>
h
2
Position of
North end
of Needle.
o
43'7
h
3
Position of
North end
of Needle.
July 30
81
Auprust 1
Moan
0/1
8 18 30
1 57 36
I 55 22
2 19 27
1 59 5
2 1 47
1 49 57
2 29 10
1 53 35
2 27 25
2 I 40
2 6 41
/ n
2 00 56
1 48 55
2 4 20
2 21 15
2 00 15
1 55 15
1 46 47
2 00 27
2 00 52
2 6 47
1 51 57
1 59 15
I 33 55
1 53 17
1 57 25
1 56 5
2 2 20
1 57 35
1 13 00
1 49 2
1 56 32
1 42 7
1 21
o
43-9
h
4
Position of
North end
of Needle.
1 10 42
58 20
1 57 25
1 37 22
2 19 35
1 56 37
1 2 50
1 57 57
1 53 40
1 29 7
I 5 52
1 45 56 1 35 21
o
44-6
Position of
Nortii end
of Needle.
' I
1 42 82
21 7
1 52 40
1 86 00
1 48 00
1 59 45
1 13 22
1 51 87
2 2 5
1 35 52
1 24 17
o
45 6
h
6
Position of
North end
of Needle.
r I
1 51 55
1 48 27
2 2 42
1 48 45
1 10 42
1 46 45
1 40 40
1 49 27
2 00 52
1 57 5
1 25 12
o
47-4
h
7
Position of
North end
of Needle.
' «
2 3 27
1 55 5
1 50 27
2 00 35
1 41 22
1 32 50
1 59 27
2 7 22
2 9 80
2 7 22
1 S4 20
1 35 12
1 45 41
1 56 48
49
h
8
Position of
North end
of Needle.
o ' «
1 59 32
2 11 SO
I 56 25
2 2 30
2 SO 25
1 54 35
1 52 25
2 32 47
2 1 2
1 58 45
1 45 22
51-8
h
9
Position of
North end
of Needle.
• «
2 17 20
2 6 55
1 58 17
2 7 00
2 10 15
1 58 42
I 55 40
1 56 50
2 16 45
2 12 45
o
53-3
b
10
Position of
North end
of Needle.
2 15 47
2 S 42
2 4 40
2 25 43
2 19 19
2 10 20
1 51 57
2 18 27
2 13 45
3 4 40
2 1 15 2 10 00
2 3 12
2 5 .37
534
h
u
Position of
Nortli end
of Needle.
h
t:!i ijqJ
2 6 12
2 9 85
2 4 30
2 27 30
2 23 27
2 20 45
1 47 22
2 19 32
2 20 52
2 15 12
2 13
2 9
H 10
h iO 17
2 K :i ■ a 13
2 '2^ if Hi ^'' <S
2 I 52 2 11 iHHJ!i5
2 11 13
2 12 23
MAGNETIC NEEDLE.
177
RNAL VARIATION oAhE HORIZONTAL MAGNETIC NEEDLE AT SPITZBERGEN. 1S27.
P.M.
of NuetUe. . uf Nf»
5S-9
b
2
Position of
North end
of NoeJlo.
2 SO 7
2 n ;:|i:!iio % s n
i 38 20
l( i') 49
2 IS 12 2 'i^ iiH^i) 15
2 S3 25
2 36 52
2 35 52
2 28 35
2 35 40
2 SO 00
2 11 45
2 41 15
38 42
53' 8
h
3
o
52-7
h
4
Position of Position of
North cntl \ Nortli end
if Needle.
of Nei'dle.
O ' II
2 13 20
3 8 S5
2 35 30
2 31 59
2 28 50
2 31 47
3 4 55
2 2f. 45
2 20 7
2 34 55
2 50 55
2 37 5
O ' II
2 34 20
3 2 30
2 43 42
2 30 00
2 19 10
2 29 22
3 14 32
2 27 00
2 20 7
2 50 52
2 53 52
o
52
Position of
North oiul
of Needle.
o
51-1
h
Position of
North end
of Needle.
II ' >•
3 13 32 2 56 15
2 47 32
2 43 5
2 37 00
2 12 12
2 28 27
2 52 27
2 29 5
2 2t 40
2 53 10
2 SO 55
2 36 42
2 45 55
2 49 25
2 23 55
2 13 00
2 43 32
h
7
50
h
8
Position of Position of
North end , North end
of Needle, of Needle.
» "
3 10 12
2 43 37
2 55 50
2 50 15
2 21 7
2 15 27
2 40 10
2 41 42 2 31 52
2 29 12
2 45 00
o ' '/
2 44 17
2 52 57
2 42 37
2 44 00
2 18 ,37
2 17 7
3 11 5
2 19 30
2 52 87 2 31 5'.'
2 51 42
2 17 7
2 44 27 i 2 44 27 , 2 32 35
2 40 57
2 39 16 2 S9 8 2 43 56 2 3S 20
48'.|
h
9
Position of
North end
of Needle.
o / //
2 51 1,5
2 56 12
2 21 17
2 29 47
2 89 45
2 31 3ll
2 53 52
2 10 57
o
47 '3
h
10
Position of
North end
of Needle.
O / ..
2 10 55
2 41 22
2 33 32
2 28 17
2 14 42
2 26 55
2 52 12
2 16 47
2 9 S 2 34 17 2 7 32
2 40 32
2 25 20
2 36 .39
45-8
u
Position of
North end
of Needle.
o ' //
2 16 00
2 27 5
2 36 15
2 29 27
2 00 52
2 35 00
2 37 37
2 19 10
2 43 40
2 17 45
2 29 27
RE,sui;rs,
45-5
h
12
Maxininni
K;»sterly.
Position of ! „..
1 nnet)
North end
of Needle.
\M.
t II
2 26 15
2 00 25
2 28 45
2 9 32
1 58 25
2 21 50
2 38 57
2 2 47
I 48 35
2 41 37 2 18 45
2 10 40
2 23 45
2 32
2 12 32
Amount of
Kilsterly
Vilriiition
Miixinuiin
Westerly.
4-27
' »
1 8 30
I 58 5
28 45
13 12
1 8 30
I) 32 27
1 16 22
,30 10
25 87 ! 7
50 5
Times
P..M.
' .\nioiint of
I Westerly
Vjiriation.
Totsl
Amount
of
Daily
Variation.
o » «
i 57 00
3 49 43
36 88
1 13 20
55 55
•00
i!
31 13
20 .'!3
II 22 :i8
II ■,; 20
22 30
2 5 ,30
2 47 IS
1 5 23
1 17 25
1 29 ,3
I) 55 5
2 n 12
52 10
3,1 25 59 2
I) 33 .58 ; 1 2 I ,S
31 10 1 18
I) 36 2.-) 1 32 20
I'll
'if •■«
jii
ML:-'
j i^
it
r
•. ■!
i:
fj,
' ;
1
U
I
f:;
r !
' 1
i
VJ.
LIEUTENANT (NOW COMMANDER) FOSTER'S ACCOUNT OF THE
OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIURNAL CHANGES OF INTENSITY'
IN THE HORIZONTAL MAGNETIC NEEDLE,
AT SPITZBERGEN, 1827.
i,!-
I'
ft
■M
I
Ul
1
Fr^
]('
1
'i:
1 ;'
«
!.;
;■
H
1
1
1 i\
180
APPENDIX.— No. Vr.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIURNAL CHANGES OF INTENSITY IN THE
HORIZONTAL MAGNETIC NEEDLE, AT SPITZBERGEN, 1827.
i !
■J'-l
$ ; ■'
These observations were also made by Lieutenant Crozier and myself, with
an instrument belonging to the Board of Longitude, and made by Dollond.
This instrument consists of a mahogany box, the dimensions of which are
thirteen inches by nine inches and a half; inside, on its bottom, is pasted a
graduated circle of paper, for the purpose of measuring the extent of the arc of
vibration of the needle, when suspended by a silk fibre passing through a
small perforation in the top of the box, directly over its centre ; there is also
a square pane of glass, inserted into two of the sides of the box, through which
the needle is seen and its vibrations counted. The needle is a parallelopipedon,
six inches long, four tenths broad, and one twentieth in thickness ; the ends
are rounded, and in its centre is permanently fixed a brass arm, having a
notch in its extremity made to receive a groove in the stirrup attached to the
silk fibre, by which it is suspended : the brass arm being of such a length
that the point of suspension is so much above the centre of gravity of the needle,
that its horizontality is preserved throughout all degrees of dip ; a method
which is considered less objectionable than the usual way of sliding the needle
into a stirrup until it becomes horizontal at the different places of observation.
The box was mounted upon a board, fitted with foot screws made of ivory,
and the whole apparatus was placed on a firm support within a large square
tent made of canvas, the frame work of which was entirely composed of wood.
Previous to the commencement of the observations, the silk thread (eleven
inches long) was, in the first instance, divested of torsion, by suspending a brass
needle of like form, and of equal weight with that above described ; after
which it was removed, and the magnetized needle, having its north and south
extremities in the direction of the magnetic meridian, was placed in its stead.
. ,''
u
MAGNETIC NEEDLE.
181
and its centre brought directly over the centre of the circle, by means of the
foot screws already mentioned. The needle being thus freely suspended, it
was drawn out of the magnetic meridian somewhat more than forty degrees,
by a contrivance fitted for that purpose ; but its oscillations were not noted
until the arc had decreased to forty degrees, at which time the observations
were commenced on the times of its performing ten vibrations successively,
until 200 were completed, when the terminal arc and the temperature of the
instrument were registered.
The following table contains the observations ; in explanation of which it
may be necessary to state that the mean arcs, and mean temperatures, and the
mean of the middle times of observation only, are inserted at the head of the
different columns containing the times employed by the needle to perform
200 vibrations. In consequence, however, of the irregularity in the limes of
the day when the maximum and minimum intensities have occurred, I have ap-
pended to the Table, under the head of " Results," a few more columns in which
are inserted the different times of the day that such effects have been observed
to take place, together with the number of seconds required by the needle to
perform 200 vibrations, under such circumstances. On looking over these
columns, it will be seen that the maximum and minimum intensities have
respectively occurred between the hours of P 55"" a.m. and 3^ 41" p.m. ; and
between 3^ 54"° a.m. and IP 45'" p.m., without any sort of uniformity; the
mean being for the time of maximum intensity 10'' 20" a.m. and for the
minimum 12'' IT"" p.m. The mean of these two times (IP 18"") is not very distant
from the time when the sun is on the north and south magnetic meridians.
It will also be seen, that the mean amount of the daily change of horizontal
intensity of the needle is about V? part of the time of its vibration, varying,
however, from ^ to Vt part of the same : and also that the intensity from day
to day (as determined by the means of all the times of the needle performing
200 vibrations throughout the twenty-four hours) is subject to a considerable
change; to exhibit which more clearly, I have converted these times into
proportional intensities, by squaring the reciprocals of those times, and mul-
tiplying them by 1000000, to render them all integral, as shown in the column
assigned for them in the Table.
2 B
u
i'":
n.
1 i'l* i-
If
l I ' sill
41^
iff
pi
■i,'i
IfM
li '
182
APPENDIX.— No. VI.
i..;i ■.■>;
TABLE, SHOWING THE HOURLY CHANGES OF HORIZONTAL INTEXsitMf \
Mean Arc
A.M.
o
25
25-7
25-2
25-3
25-2
o
25
25-3
25-3
o
20-1
o
25-9
o
25-8
85'li
Mi-an Tonipcralure
47° 3
o
44 7
o
44-5
o
45-2
45°-7
46-4
o
48
49
o
52-7
o
52-0
o
52-1
Hour
h m
11
i-.i-;
h in
y • 54
h m
3-51
)i m
4 54
h in
5-51
ti m
C-54
h m
7-42
h m
9-19
h m
9-58
h III
10-57
11 -5.;
T.:,,,
laso-ij
DATK.
Time of
iwrforininn
*IO\'lli.
Tliiicnf
IM>rfi)niilng
«CK) VHi.
Thill! nt
IK'rroriniiiff
l!(«i Vlb.
Time of
prriciniilng
««) \-ni.
Thnecl-
IK>rr(iriiilni{
800 VII).
Tim.' ..f
perl"""'iig
KM Vll>.
Time of
lierfurmlng
>!00 Vll).
Time of
(lerforming
Sm Vlli.
Time uf
Iiertorrnlng
21J0 Vlb.
Time of
lieriuriiiiiig
lioo Vlll.
Time of
lierlormliig
<IV \'>li.
July 80
■v.
1238-0
.V.
1210-3
S.
I2H-8
1.
1238-0
1237-5
1238-8
1238-8
a.
a.
1240-7
S.
12S8-5
1239-5
1231-9
12250
SI
1239-6
1231-3
1239-5
1264-1
1213-4
1241 5
1240-9
1237-3
1241-5
12r!6-4
1265-5
1250 9
1212-5
1240-9
1232-8
1225-1
lJ2-)-|
Anjriist 1
1239 '6
1237-2
1235-5
1230- 6
1239-0
1237-8
1239-0
1238-8
1243-1
1237-1
1288-6
1237-7
1232-9
12295
122J-I
2
1233-4
1237-1
1237-3
1231-7
1231-5
1212-8
1246-3
1249-5
1244-7
1245-3
1243-4
1241-0
1242-5
1241-8
1240-5
1212-4
123v.)
3
1239-6
1237-6
1239-8
1239-5
1233-8
1235-5
1250-8
1840-0
1246-8
1243-2
1242-7
1216-8
1243-7
1215-3
12WI
4
1236-9
1240-2
1241-7
1240-5
1239-2
1242-3
1240-3
1241-9
1238-2
1238-9
1238-0
1243-8
1241-2
1241-7
1240-5
1237-0
12.^8-5
1230-I)
5
12400
1241-7
1239-0
1237-0
1240-4
1236-8
1232-8
1242-8
1283-7
1233-2
1233-9
1233-1
12,S3-0
1231!
1231-8
6
12100
1234 6
1235-2
1230-7
1230-3
1232-1
1230-2
1231-0
1234-9
1238-4
12S9-1
1239-4
1232-7
1834-4
1233-8
1230-7
1228-0
1226'5
7
1237-8
1240-7
1239-3
1241-8
1240-0
1210-3
1240-6
1240-5
1240-4
1241-6
1241-2
1239-7
123C-J
123i'j
8
1235-8
1237-7
123J0
123J-5
1236-7
1235-2
1244-0
1245-7
1245-1
1244-3
1242-4
1241-6
1242-9
1240-7
1236-4
1239 -8
I237'0
Vim
9
1248.0
1245-0
1246-5
1250-7
1246-3
1244-3
1243-5
1246-1
1242-9
1240-8
1240-0
1238-2
1238-2
1211')
• Mean
1239-0
1238-7
1236-6
1241-6
1242-7
1240-5
1240-8
1240-5
1239-2
1238-3
1236-8
nm
Prop. Intensity . .
fi5I4
G3I7
6539
6487
6175
6498
6495
6498
6512
6521
6537
m
\>.ys
Is n
Il-«nt
\t' '
jli.'J-l
liis-n I
;i!3-9 1
|i33-2 1
l!l6-0 i;
IJJS-l I'
1>38'5
\m-i IS
:m-i IS
mi IS
l!SI-0 15
l!3t-2 IS
IM3-7 IS
IJlO-8 19
UlS-1 12
im-6 12
* From tl.ose Means it appears that the Maximum Intensity has taken p
n
MAGNETIC NEEDLE.
183
Ml
■I 1*
[ZONTAL INTEXsiiMp V MAGNETIZED NEEDLE AT SPITZBERGEN, 1827.
P.M.
o
25-9
o
82-0
h m
9-58
Time of
[lertbnnlng
*» Vili.
1240-7
19S9-5
23-8
o
52 1
h III
10'57
Timu of
liurt'iiniiing
«W Viti.
S.
1288-5
1231-9
1282-2
1237-1
1238-6
1240-5
1243-2
1242-7
12370
1225-1
1237-7
1232-9
1212-4
83'(i
11 'J.;
Tm; t
»n„r; :,
«<• V,.
1233-2
1233-9
1230'7
1240-4
1241-6
1239-8
1216-8
1243-7
1238-5
1283-1
1233-0
1228-0
1241-2
1239-7
1237"0
11240-8
ll240-0
|l238-3
6S21
mm
1225J
12!rl|
122'J3J
\im\
\iKi\
mh)\
U311
123l'i
122«'3
'Si
lii-i
0'51
ll-»rf
lliW'6
IliiJ'l
]ur\
l!l6-0
m' 1
liSS'4
:m'4
M4
25-5
52-4
1-55
25-6
52-5
h tn
2-54
Tlincf ! Tlmuof
pnl'wming l».''f"""l"8
SonVlli, I lilMVIb.
1227-8
1223-7
1226-5
12:](;'i
123*1
1235'i)
1!S"'0
II23I'!
|li35'7
1288-2
1238-2
1230-8
0537
t239'il
12ll'l
IlilO'S
lilS'l
ml
|li31'6
m
1225-4
1226-0
1237-6
1223-8
1222-6
1238-3
1236-5
12S6-1
1226-0
1231-4
1235'6
25 ■ 6
52-7
3-41
Time of
Pfrtormiinj
1223-2
12I1-0
1232-3
1238-0
1238-0
1246-0
1251-3
1230-6
1231-5
1235-7
1235-2
1241-8
1243-1
1235-6
6550
1239-8
1235-8
12S80
1847-9
1247-6
1233-7
1227-6
1239-3
1244-2
1243-8
1240-4
1240-8
25-6
50 3
5-51
IKTforrtiiiiK
12:^7-2
1233-3
1233-S
1233-5
1234-1
1210-9
1240-0
1286-8
1244-9
1230-7
1238-8
1239-9
1289-2
1247-0
1217-6
1238-4
1240-1
1286-1
1288-3
25-7
52 ■
fi-ll
IHTfiiriiiing
1231-3
1233-7
1238-4
1240-5
1251-7
1235-4
1236-8
6537
1237-1
6534
1245-5
1231-4
1248-2
1239-4
6510
1237-1
25-6
49-7
h 111
8-10
Time of
)HTformlnf{
ilV Vib.
1231-2
1232-7
1234-8
1239 5
1246-9
1241-4
25-7
5U-6
8 ■ 36
lurformiiiK
1231-6
1236-9
1240-9
1235-8
1235-2
1210-0
1239-6
1233-4
1250-1
1245-2
1240-0
6504
1237-3
1236-0
1246-3
1213-8
1247-0
1245-3
1239-8
23 ■ fi
49 • 8
9-53
1230-0
I2I0-9
1210-9
1231-2
1239-3
1237
1242-2
1238-4
1240-9
1236-0
1244-8
1213-3
1243-0
1239-0 1239-9 1239-3
6514 I 6505 6511
1241-5
1243-5
1239-3
1236-8
1237-9
1236-2
23-6
180
10-54
25-3
47 6
h m
11-15
Iierfiprniinn ptTturmiiig
1230-2
1242-2
1236-7
1238-5
1235-5
1239-7
1237-3
1236-5
1250-3
1245-5
1236-7
1240-5
1242-7
1213-6
1239-2
12S6-4
1235-5
1240-8
1286-7
1235-0
1236-8
1234-6
1242-8
1236-3
1238-3
II
%:
A 3
1243-0
1211-6
1239-7
1239-1
6513
1246-2
1239-5
1239-0
'1231-8
1238-9
1233-9
1239-8
■1240-4
1241-9
1239-0
1234-7
1238-3
1211-0
1242-8
1238-7
6517
6581
6515
6568
6511
6199
6184
6514
M.'inliiiufji IiiU'iutty .
It 111
2-51 PM. 1222
Nunilu-r ..f
Si-i muU
t.iki'ii r<i
ni.-tki-Vi'O
11-56 AM.
0-54 PM.
2-54 AM
J- 51 AM
3-41 PM
11-56 AM
6560 11-56 AM
6521
6493
6474
Mean
1-39 PM.
rss AM
10-57 AM.
1220- 1
1223-9
1231-5
1233-8
1236-8
1231-3
1226-5
1231-
1234-0
1238-2
Minimum Iiilen.lty.
Ii 111
NumlKTof
Sfconil.
I.il.e.1 1..
malie SiMI
V'itiralioii..
.».
10-51 I'M. 1212 2
3-34 AM.
9- 19 AM. 1213- 1
1265-5
10-20 AM.
4-51 AM.
6-51 AM
6' 41 PM
1-55 PM
8-56 PM.
11-45 I'M
5-54 PM.
1219-
1230-8
1251-7
1251-3
1210-9
1246-2
1251-4
3-54 AM.
12-17 PM
1250-7
Imum Intensity has taken (■, or about Noon, and the Minimum about 5 o'clock in the Morning.
:,«'
.,n
1 1
y
%
i
2B2
I: In
Ht
\r^
VII.
('
TEMPERATURE AND SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF SEA-VVATER BELOW THE
SURFACE, 1827.
During: the whole of these Experiments, except those on the N.h and 15th of June, the Ship wa. clos.lv
re^istenn^thatattheSlattL';::. '"'"°™""' "" "^ '"'"^ """'"°'"^'- "^ "^^ '"
'ii
:(l
III! '5
ft;
•fir
kid
Is
m- f_:
p '
ll/
1:^
1,;
1 .,
'1
vr
|1-
180
APPENDIX.— No. VII.
f ;
ill I ;
:( ,--
TEMPERATURE AND SPECIFIC GRAVITV OF SEA-WATER BELOW THE
SURFACE, 1827.
D«jr.
North
Utituile.
E*9t
Longitude.
Ti
III*.
Sea Wilier.
Trmperkturr. 1
H.
A.M. or
P.M.
Depth in
Fathomi),
Teni-
pemture.
Speriliu
Oruvity.
Tfrnjipra-
tiim when
WfiKhi'il,
Surface
Water.
Air.
1887.
May 15
„ 16
„ 18
„ 19
June 4
» 5
,. 6
„ 7
,, 8
„ 14
„ 15
o »
80 4
80 1
79 56
70 55
79 49
79 49
79 49
79 CO
79 50
80 47
80 49
l"2 89
13 5<
13 89 1
IS 46 [
15 11 {
15 17-|
15 22 j
V
15 30'
15 30<
18 33
19 7
11
Noon
Noon
3
4
4
Mid.
4
Noon
9
11
1
3
5
7
9
It
7
9
11
1
8
S
T
9
11
1
3
7
9
11
3
4
5
7
9
11
1
3
5
7
9
11
1
8
9
Midt.
7
6
P.M.
PM.
P.M.
P.M.
A.N.
P.M.
P.M.
A.N.
A.N.
A.N.
A.N.
A.N.
A.M.
P.M.
P.M.
P.N.
..M.
^.M,
A N.
A.N.
A.M.
A.M.
PH.
P.M
P.M.
P.N.
P.M.
A.N.
A.M.
A.M.
A.M.
A.M.
A.M.
P.M.
P.M.
P.M.
P.M.
P.M.
P.M.
A.N.
A.M.
A.M.
A.M.
P.M.
115
101
At Sur
94
96
66
73
63
71
74
73*
73
71
78J
76i
78J
80
84i
88
82
84
76
68
68
68
68
68
70
79
68
73
78
64
54
58
68
56
56
53
52
52J
53
58
52
48
53i
95
82
75
o
S3
.SO
Face
29'5
38' 5
80
38-5
89
38
39 3
89 8
89-8
39
89-5
89-7
89-8
89-8
89-5
80
38-7
80
39-5
29-2
29-8
80
39
SO
89-7
29-2
89-5
SO
89-5
39
SO
298
30
SO
29
29
29
30
29-5
29
29
28-8
29-2
29-8
S8-6
29
59-5
59-5
60
89*5
38
38
88-7
38-3
38
38
88-5
38
SO
SO
.30-8
39-S
81
80-5
81
31
SO
31
80
SO
80-5
30-5
SOS
SO-5
80-8
81
38
SI
89-7
SO
81
31-S
SO-5
SI
Sl-5
S8
31-5
31
30
33
Sl-5
31-5
32
SO
31-5
31
29
30
41
17
17
18
18-5
33
IS
13
14
35
88
39
39
42
43
4S
44
43
43
41
37
88
87-5
38
89
89
39
41
48
41
88
40
41
40-5
89
43
42
41
41
40
37
89
38
40
42
40
26
26
87
1-0279
1-0278
1-0378
41
17
IT
18
18-
S3
IS
IS
H
35
S8
39
S9
42
43
48
44
43
43
41
37
38
37'!
38
89
39
»9
41
42
41
38
40
41
40-S
89
43
42
41
41
40
37
39
38
40
42
40
26
26
27
NATURAL HISTORY.
1 \ ■■
( ■ i
' ■ f
'M;
M
u;t;n
■\.u\
m
m>A
,
RV
»f
in
!
P' ^
li
i
1
T ■.1
llfi
' »
M ,: ,\
! I
J I
ZOOLOGY.
BY
LIEUTENANT rW CO,m..^„.„, ,,„,, ,,,„, ,^„^^ ^^_ ^^ ^
I
of Spi,.borge„, among t I n s o'the .t ""°, ™^''»"° '"■'"« ""= ^"o™
Polar Sea.a> far nonh^s .ho lattul „f 8o4 "°'''"'"'' =■"" °" '"^'^ °f"'<=
in that of tho Birds • and ^>^T u ^'•™"""*^ ^"'""1 'tOnmohsie.
iiji.,i'|
; . ..Sir
2 C
IL^.!
I ■*"!
-J
■; ^1 1'.
I- '
190
APPENDIX.
QUADRUPEDS.
V;
JJli
'■''■' i
I "■•
1i:
ii' h ! -'1
'M
1. Ursus Maritimus. Polar Bet r.
Ursus Maritimus. Ciivicr, Regne Animal, vol. i. p. 143. Fab. Faun. Groenl. p. 22. Supp.
to Parry's First Voijage, p. clxxxiii. Aj^p. to Franh''n's Joumeij, p. 648. App.to
Parry's Second Voyage, p. £'S8. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 92.
Many of these animals were seen on the ice, during the progress of the ship
through the " pack" to the westward and northward of Spitzbergen ; and after-
wards occasionally on the shores of Hecla Cove, Several were seen by the
party during their journey over the ice towards the North Pole, beyond the
latitude of 82°| N., and two females were killed. The flesh is free from
any very disagreeable taste: they proved a timely and valuable addition
to our stock of provisions, and served materially to restore the strength of the
party.
2. Canis Lagopus. Arctic Fox.
Canis Lagopus. Cuvier, Regne Animal, vol. i. p. 155. Fab. Faun. Granl. p. 19, No. 11.
App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 299 App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 92.
Several of these animals were seen in the neighbourhood of Hecla Cove, and
one was shot by Mr. Foott, on the western shore of Waygatz Strait.
3. Arvicola Hudsonia. Hudson's Bay Lemming.
Arvicola Hudsonia. App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 308. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 93.
Lemnms Hudsonius. Svpp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. clxxxviii. Aj^p. to Franklin's
Journey, p. 6G1.
The skeleton of one of these animals was found in a floe of ice to the northward
JL^ :
ZOOLOGY.
191
of Spitzbergen, in latitude 81°^ N., and distant from the nearest known land
above 60 miles. The peculiar formation of the fore claws, which were quite
perfect, distinctly pointed out the species, without the least doubt.
' the
4. Cervus Tarandus. Rein-deer.
Cervus Tarandus. Ciivier, Rcgne Animal, i. p, 254. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. cxc.
App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 326.
Very numerous along the northern shore of Spitzbergen, and near the low island
of Phipps : during the stay of the ship in Hecla Cove, about seventy were killed
by parties sent for the purpose, in th(3 neighbourhood of Treurenberg Bay.
5. Phoca FuiTiDA. Roi/gh Seal.
Phoca Foetida. Fah. Faun. Grcenl. p. 13. App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 332. App. to
Parry's Third Voy.jge, p. 94.
Rough Seal. Pcnn. Quad. ii. p. 278. Arct. Zool. i. p. IGO.
Two young animals of this species were shot by Mr. Beverly during the journey
over the ice, and were found to be excellent food ; some were seen as far north
as 82°|, nearly.
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and
6. PiiocA Grcknlandica. Harp Seal.
Phoca Grcenlandica. Cuvicr, Rrgne Animal, \. p. 1«G. FaJ). Faun. Grwnl. p. 11. App, to
Parry's Second Voyage, p. 330. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 94.
Was occasionally seen on the loose ice of the pack to the northward and west-
ward of Spitzbergen, and also at the Seven Islands of Phipps.
if' if
7. MoNODON MoNOCEROs. Narwlutl,
:m
,93.
iklin's
mrd
Monodon Monoceros. Cuvicr, Regnc Animal, i. p. 280. Fah. Faun. Grwnl. p. 29. Supp. to
Parry's First Voyage, p. cxcii. App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 330. App. to
Parry's Third Voyage, p. 94.
Several of these animals were seen amongst loose ice in latitude 81.40 N.,
2C2
,if'i
III
jfLufc-'
\-
192
APPENDIX.
on the return of the party from the attempt to reach the North Pole over the ice.
They are seldom to be seen far within the edge of a "pack," and their appearance
was considered by the Greenland sailors as indicative of our approach to open
water, which proved to be the case much sooner than was expected.
8. Delpiiinapterus Beluga. White Whale.
Delphinapterus Beluga. Cuvier, Regne Animal, i. p. 2S0. App. to Parnfs Second Voyage,
p. 337.
Delphinus Albicans. Fab. Faun. Granl. p. SO.
Was frequently seen pursuing a small fish (the Merlangus Polaris) along the
shores of Hecla Cove, and in the shallow water at the head of Treurenberg Bay.
9, Tbiciiecus Rosmakus. Walrus.
Trichecus Rosmanis. Cuvier, Regne Animal, i. p. 167. Fab. Faun. GramL, p. 4. Stipp. to
Furry s First Voyage, p. cxci. App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 337.
Veuy numerous along the western coast of Spitzbergen, and the Low Island of
Phipps ; but none were seen to the northward of Walden Island.
■
1 \
1
1
i
ZOOLOGY.
193
BIRDS.
1. Emberiza Nivalis. Snow-bunliwr
O *
Emberiza Nivalis. Gmel i t^ ccc r <i t , ^
-. Kjinei. J. p. S5S, Lath. Ind Orn i n •io'r 'I'
Gr.nL,. „r. ^,,, to Parr.'s Second Vo^Z/sZ T "Tf;?. '''^- ''''""•
/o /'ar;y'. Third Voyage, p. 9S. ^ ^ ^' ^''"'" ^"''^'' ^"^ '■ ^PP-
Snow Banting. Bri, ZooU I ,. ,,,, Arc, ZooL ii. ,. SS,. Lath. S.nAi, ,. ,0U
2. Tetrao Lagopus. Ptarmigan.
TetraoLagopus. Gme/. i. p. 749. Ia</,. /„,/. Or« ii p e,o r; r ^
Ptarmigan. Za//.. Sy„. iv. p. r,l. Arct.ZooL ii. p. 315. '^'^'^ * ''""^ ^ »' ?• »^-
Several of these birds were shot on the shores of Treurenbero- n ■ u
autumn of 1827. Areurenberg Bay, in the
3. CiiARADRius HiATicuLA. Ringed Plover.
Charadrius Hiaticula. Gmel. l ,. 0S3. Lalh. Jnd. Orn. u. ,. Us Sup, to Pa ';.•
^0^. p. cc. A,, to Pranh.. Journe, , .s. \, . ^/^^T^^::
Ringed Plover. Lath. Syn. v. p 201. Arc. Zool. ii. p. 4S5.
A SINGLE individual, shot by Mr M'CormiVk in H«o7 ^
Mr. TemmincJc's description of th. n i ^°'^' ^^'""^^ "^'^^
ever, rather more whTtl Tout tht!.'" '""'"^'^ P^"""-^^' ^^^^"^-' how-
neariyas white as rhe ut 1^ ^^^ ^" ^^^ ^^^ ^eing
white, as in Captain Sabine's splclnien "" ""^ "°^ ^'^^^^ ^"^
If.',!
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194 APPENDIX.
4. Tringa Maritima. Purpk Sandpiper.
Tringa Maritima. Ginel. I Tp. G7S. Lcdh. Iml. Orn. ii. p. 731. Ttwrn. p. 619. GrecnL
Birds, No. 7. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. cci. App, to Parry's Second Voyage ,
p. 354. Aj^. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 101.
Striated Sandpiper. Ard. Zool. ii. p. 472. Lath. Syn. v. p. 176.
Abundant along the shores of Hecla Cove.
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5. Sterna Arctica. Arctic Tern.
Sterna Arctica. Tenim. p. 742. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccii. App. to Parry's
Second Voyage, p. 356. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 103.
Found breeding, in great numbers, on a small islet in the centre of a large lagoon
near the south end of the Low Island of Phipps. An immature bird was
shot in latitude 81°| N. Several were also seen off the island of Unst, (the
northernmost of the Shetland Islands,) and two were shot in Balta Sound. These
differed, in no respect, from the Arctic specimens ; and I believe this is the first
time it has been noticed as a British species.
6. Larus Gi.*.ucus. Glaucous Gull.
Larus Glaucus. G/nc/. i. p. COO. Lath. Ind. Orn. ii. p. 814. Fob. Faun. Grcenl. Tp. 100.
Temm. p. 757. Grccnl. Birds, No. 19. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. cciii.
App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 35S. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 103.
Glaucous Gull. Arct. Zool. ii. p. 532. Lath. Syn. vi. p. 374.
Abundant along the shores of Low Island, but not seen to the northward of 81".
7. Larus Eburneus. Ivor^ Gull.
Larus Eburneus. Gmel. i. p. 596. Lath. Ind. Orn, ii. p. 816. Temm. p. 769. Greenl.
Birds, No. 21. Supp. to Paries First Voyage, p. cciv. Ajyp. to Parry's Third Voyage^
p. 104.
Ivory Gull. Arct. Zool. ii. p. 529. Lath. Syn. vi. p. 377.
Found as far north as the Expedition travelled, and very abundantly in the
i;
ZOOLOGY.
195
neighbourhood of Hecla Cove. An immature bird was seen at the entrance of
Balta Sound. It is mentioned by Dr. Edmonstone, in the Tmmacliom of the
Wernerian Societi/, as having been shot there some years ago, though it has not
yet been enumerated amongst the British birds of late authors.
8. Larus Tridactylus. Kittivcah.
Larus Tridactylus. Lcdh. Ind. Orn. ii. p. 817. Tcmm. p. 774. Fab. Faun. Grccnl. p. 08.
Greenl. Birds, No. 22. App. to Parry's Second Voijarje, p. Si'J. App. to Parry's Third
Voyage, p. 105.
Kittiwake. Ard. Zool. ii. p. 529. Brit. Zoot. ii. p. 186. Lath. Syn. vi. p. 393.
Was observed feeding on the Merlangus Polaris and Alpheus Polaris, as far as
the expedition went to the northward (82°|). Was very abundant in the
autumn along the shores of Spitzbergen, and on Ross Islet, and Low Island.
9. Larus Sabini. Fork-tailed GidU
Larus Sabini. Trans. Lin. Soc. xii. p. 520. plate 29. Grccnl. Birds, No. 23. Stipp. to
Parry's First Voyage, p. ccv. App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 30O.
Xema CoUaris. Leach in Ross's Voyage, octavo edit. ii. p. 104.
Several individuals were seen by Lieutenant Foster in Waygatz Strait, but no
specimens were obtained, nor was it seen on any other part of Spitzbergen.
10. Larus Rossii (Richardson). Ctineate- tailed Gull.
Larus Rossii. Richardsc:: r* ^^'P' '" Parry's Second Voyage, -p. 359.
Several were seen during our travels over the ice, and as far north as the Expe-
dition went. Lieutenant Foster also found them in Waygatz Strait, where it is
probable that they breed. No specimens were obtained.
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196 APPENDIX.
11. Lestris Parasiticus. Arctic Lestris.
Lestris Parasiticus, renim. p. 798. Grocnl. Birds, 1^0.21. Svpp. to Parry's First Voyage,
p. ccvi. App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 36 1. App.to Parry's Third Voyage, p, 105.
Larua Parasiticus. Gmel. i. p. COl. Latli. Ind. Orn. ii. p. 819.
Arctic Gull. Ard. Zool. ii. p. 530. Brit. Zool. ii. p. IT9. Lalh. Syn. vi. p. 389.
Abundant at Walden Island, and occasionally met with during the journey over
the ice, but not seen to the northward of 82° 2' N.
12. Lestris Pomarinus. Pomarim Lestris.
Lestris Pomarinus. Temm. p. 793. Svpp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccvi. App. to Parry's
Second Voyage, p. 367. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 1 05.
The only individual seen during the voyage, flew past the boats in lat. 82° N.
i:;
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13. Procellaria Glacialis. Fulmar Petrel.
Procellaria Glacialis. Gmel. i. p. 562. Lath. Ind. Orn. ii. p. 823. Temm. p. 802. Fab.
Fauna Grooiil, p. 86. Svpp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccvi. App. to Parry's Third
Voyage, p. 106.
Fulmar Petrel. Lath. Syn. iv. p. 403. Arct. Zool. ii. p. 534. Brit. Zool. ii. p. 203.
One of the very few birds which were found at the northernmost latitude
attained by the Expedition.
14. Anas Bernicla. Brent Goose.
Anas Bernicla. Gmel. i. p. 513. Lath. Ind. Orn. ii. p. S44. Temm. p. 825. Siipp. to
Parry's First Voyage, p. ccvii. App. to Fratiklin's Journey, p. 698. App. to Parry's
Second Voyage, p. 367.
Brent Goose. ^nV. Zoo/, ii. p. 151. i4rd. Zoo/, ii. p. 551.
Seen in large flocks about Walden and Little Table Islands ; a nest with two
eggs was brought on board from Ross Islet, in lat. 80° 48' N., on the 16th of
June. It was not seen to the northward of that place.
i]
ZOOLOGY.
15. Anas Mollissima. E'ldcr Duck.
197
t
Anas Mollissima. Cmt'/. i. p. 514. Lcdh. Ind.Orn.u. \>.S\^5. Fahr.ip.GS. Ti'mm.\).SiS.
Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccviii. App. to Parry's Second Voyaji.; p. 370.
App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 105.
Eider Duck. Brit. Zoot. ii. p. 243. Ard. Zool. ii. p. 553. Ledh. Syn. vi. p. 470.
Not very numerous, but were occasionally met with along the coast of Spitz-
bergen and the islands to the northward. A few were shot at Hecla Cove.
16. CoLYMBUS Septenthionalis. Red- throated Diver.
Colymbus Septentrioiialis. Ginel. \. p. 586. Lath. Iiid. Orn, ii. p. 801. Fi.ibr. p. 94.
Temm. p. 910. Grcenl. Birds, No. 10. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccix. App.
to Frankliii's Journey, p. 703. App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 370. App. to
Parry's Third Voyage, p. 100.
Red-throated Diver. Brit. Zool. ii. p. 109. Arct. Zool. ii. p. 520. Lath. Syn. vi. p. 344.
17. Uria BnuNNicnii. Brunnic/is Guillemot.
m
I'^Tit Jf
I. . ■
■''H\
m
Una Brunnichii. Grecnl. Birds, No. 14. Temm. p. 924, Supp. to Parry's First Voyage^
p. ccix. App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 377. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 108.
18. UniA GuYLLE. Blac/c Guillemot.
Uria Grylle. Lath. Ind. Orn. ii. p. 797. Fahr. p. 92. Temm. p. 925. Greenl. Birds,
No. 15. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccix. Apj). to Parry's Second Voyage,
p. 377. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 107.
Black Guillemot. Brit. Zool. ii. p. 163. Arct. Zool. ii. p, 510.
'n
19. Uria Alle. Little Auk.
Uria Alle. Temm. p. 923. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccx. App. to Parry's Third
Voyage, p. 107.
Alca Alle. G/ne/. i. p. 554. Z,a</i. //if/. Orn. ii. p. 795. Fair. p. 84. Greenl. Birds, No. 13.
Little Auk. .4rc<. Zoo/, ii. p. 512. Lath. Syn. v. ■p. 327.
Seen as far north as the party travelled ; and in great numbers between the lat.
of 81" and 82° on the return of the Expedition in August.
SD
M'i
I ■: i;
198
APPENDIX.
|yMM||ii
20. Mormon Fbatercula. Pirffin Aiik,
Mormon Fratercula. Temm. p. 933. App. to Parnfs Third Voyage, p. 108.
Alca Arctica. Gmcl. i. p. 549, LcUh. Iml. Orn. ii. p. 792. Fabr. p. 83.
Puffin Auk. Ard. Zool. ii. p. 511. Laih. Syn. v. p. 314.
21. Alca Toiida. Rasor-bill Auk.
AlcaTorda. Gmcl. i. p. 551. Lath. Iml. Orn. ii. p. 793. Tenm. p. 936, fair, p. 78.
App, to Parry's Third Voyarjc, p. 108.
Razor-bill Auk. Arct. Zool, ii. p. 509. Lath, Syn, v. p. 319.
This and the preceding species inhabit Spitzbergen, and were found in consi-
derable numbers, breeding in the high acclivities of Walden and Little Table
Islands. They were not seen to the north of those islands.
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ZOOLOGY.
199
ifl'
FISHES.
1. Ophidium Parrii.
Ophidium Parrii. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 109.
A SINGLE individual of a species of Ophidium, very much resembling the
0. Parrii, was found amongst some sea-weed on the shore of Walden Island.
It differed from those of this species which were found in Baffin's Bay and
Prince Regent's Inlet, in the number of rays of the pectoral fin ; but this has
not been considered sufficiently important to form a new species, since the
very mutilated and putrid state of the only specimen which has been procured
prevents any other differences from being detected. In the 0. Parrii, the rays
of the pectoral fin amount to thirty-seven ; whilst, in this individual, only twenty-
eight could be determined. The form of the fin, in both cases, is similar, and
much larger than any of their congeners.
.i*ir
2, Merlangus Polaris.
Merlangus Polaris. Supp. to Parry's First Voyaye, -p. ccx\. App. to Parry's Third Voyage,
p. 110.
Inhabits the Polar Sea as far north as the latitude of 82°f N., and is found in
great abundance in small bays, where streams of fresh water run into the sea.
3. Cyclopterus Liparis.
ill
Cyclopterus Liparis. Lacepede, ii. p. 69.
Liparis Communis. Siipp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxii.
Taken in a drag-net to the westward of Low Island.
2D2
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200
APPENDIX.
4. Blennius Polaris.
Blennius Polaris. Svpp. to Parry's First Voyivjc, p. ccxii.
This species is very nearly allied to the B. rtviparus and B, Gitnndlun of authors ;
but differs from both in having the ventral fins of one ray each, and from the
latter by the upper jaw projecting much more than the lower, and the anal,
caudal^ and dorsal fins being united. The only individual which was obtained
differed from Captain Sabine's description above referred to, in having eighteen
rays on the pectoral fin, and only eight dark marks across the back instead of
eleven. The dorsal and superior half of the caudal fins contain eighty-six rays ;
the anal and inferior half of tlie caudal about seventy rays. It was taken in a
net from a depth of eighty fathoms, in lat. 81° 6' N.
: (. .'
i I
■:. I ,
-•
ZOOLOGY.
201
INSECT.
'ill!
W
I AM indebted to the friendship of Mr. J. Curtis for the following description of
the only insect that was obtained during the voyage ; and am most happy to
have it in my power to avail myself of the authority of so eminent an ento-
mologist.
" Order, Hkmiptera, Linn., &c. Omoptera, Leach.
Fam. Aphid^, Lat. Leach.
Genua, Aphis, Linn., &c.
A. Borealis, Curlis's MSS.
Corpus magnum, atrum, hirsutum, femoribus basi ferrugineis : alls magnis, subfuscis, ad
costam atris.
" At first sight this insect might be mistaken for A. Piccce of Panzer, which it
resembles in size and colour. Upon a closer examination^ however, it will be
seen that the whole surface, excepting the wings, is coveicd with rather long
and somewhat hoary tomentum or pubescence ; and the base only of the thighs
is ferruginous ; whereas, in A. Pieces, the whole insect is naked, and the antennte,
thighs, and tibiae are ferruginous or reddish at their base."
The circumstance of the Aphis Borealis having been found on floating floes of
ice in the Polar Sea, at one hundred miles distance from the nearest known land,
and as far north as 82°2, renders it in a more than ordinary degree interesting.
Its very near resemblance to the Aphis Piccw, which feeds on the silver fir {Pinus
Picea, Linn.), whence it derives its name, would induce the belief that the
floating trees of fir, that are to be found so abundantly on the shores and to
the northward of Spitzbergcn, might possibly be the means by which this
insect has been transported to the northern regions. It was never seen on the
wing, and the few specimens that were obtained were in a very languid slate,
but revived by the heat of the hand.
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202
APPENDIX.
MARINE INVERTEBRATE ANIMALS.
1. Beroe OvUiM.
Beroc Ovum. Fiilr. Fuu7ia Grcenl, p. 30 1 , No. 355. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxx.
Seen abundantly amongst the loose ice to the northward of Spitzbergcn, and as
far north as the Blxpcdition went.
2, Beroe Pileus.
Beroe Pileus. Lam. ii. p. 470. Fubr. Fauna Grwnl. p, 301, No. 35t. Siipp, to Parry's
First Voi/aijc, p. ccxxi. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 110.
Inhabits the Polar Sea, in great abundance, as far north as 82°.
iff
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'
3. Opiiiura Fragilis.
Ophiura Fragilis. Lam. ii. p. 540. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxii. App, to
Parry's Third Voyage,^, 110.
Asterias Fragilis. Zool. Dan. iii. p. 28. Plate 98.
Taken very abundantly in a net to the northward of the Seven Islands of Phipps.
4. Asterias Papposa.
Asterias Papposa. Lam. ii. p. 559. Fubr. Faun. Grcenl. No. 304. Supp. to Parry's First
Voyage, p. ccxxii.
Lamarck describes this animal as having " douze A. quinze rayons." In the
individual obtained on this occasion the number of rays varied from ten to
thirteen.
* .1
ZOOLOGY.
203
5. AsTERiAS Glacialis.
Astcrias Glacialis. Lam. ii. p. 601. (Vnr. D.)
Asterias Angulosa. Mull. Zool, Dun. ii. p. I. Plate 41.
Some very fine specimens of this beautiful species of Aslcrias were taken in a
drag-net, from a depth of 80 fathoms, in hit. 81° G' N.
C. Nympiium GnossiPES.
Nymphum Gro3sipes. Lini, v. p. 79. Siipp, to Purri/'s First Voijagc, p. ccxxv. Ajip, lo
Parry's Third Voymji', p. 117.
Pycnogonum Grosslpcs. Mull. Zool. Dan. Plate 1 19. fig. 3 — 9. Fabr. Faun, Grant, p. 229.
7. Nympiium Hinsuxus.
Nymphum Hirsutus. Siipp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxvi. App. to Parry's Tliinl
Voyage, f. 117.
Taken abundantly from a depth of 80 fathoms, in the Polar Sea, to the north-
ward of the Seven Islands of Phipps.
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8. Idotea Baffini.
Idotea Baffini. Siipp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxviii. Plate 1. fig. 4 — C. App. to
Parry's Third Voyage, p. 1 17.
Taken abundantly, in a net, off the west side of Low Island. In some of the
individuals the two spines on the upper plate which include the branchia;, are
wanting ; and these agree perfectly with the very accurate and beautiful plate
referred to.
9. Caprella Scolopendroides.
Caprella Scolopendroides. Lam. v. p. 174. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. lis.
Gammarus Quadrilobatus. Zool. Dan. iii. p. 58, Plate 114, fig. II, 12, Female.
Squilla Quadrilobata. Zool. Dan. ii. p. SJI. Plate 36, fig. 4, 5, C, Male,
Squilla Lobata. Fabr. Faun. Groenl. p. 248.
The specimens of this species, which were taken in a net to the northward of
^11
4
204
APPENDIX.
Low Island, are of a size intermediate between those figured by Miiller and
those obtained, during Captain Parry's Third Voyage, at Port Bowen. The
spines along the back were hardly visible without the aid of a microscope ; and
the second pair of legs arc inserted in the anterior part of the second segment
of the body, and not in the centre of it, as in the pJates referred to.
10. Gammarus Loricatus. (Sabine.)
Gammarus (Gen.) Lamarck, v. p. 179.
Gammarus Loricatus, Siipp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxxi. Plate 1 , fig. 7. App. to
Parry's Third Voyayo, p. lis.
Found on the shores of Walden Island amongst sea-weed.
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11. Gammarus Sabini. (Leach.)
Gammarus Sabini. Leach, in Ross's Voyage, octavo edit. ii. p. 178. Supp, to Parry's First
Voyage, p. ccxxxii. Plate 1, fig. 8 — 11. App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p. 118.
Taken in a net from a depth of 80 fathoms, in the Polar Sea, in lat. 81° 6' N.
12. Gammarus Boreus. (Sabine.)
'"Gammanis Boreus. Stipp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxix. App. to Parry's Third Voyage,
p. 119.
Abundant on the shores of Low Island and in Hecla Cove. A dead specimen
was found on the ice in lat. 82°| N.
13. Gammarus Ampulla.
Gammarus Ampulla. S)ipp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxix.
Cancer Ampulla. Phipps's Voyage, App. p. 102. Plate 12, fig. 2.
Taken from the stomach of a young seal which was shot in lat. 82°| N. It is
rather difficult to determine whether this animal belongs to the genus Gammanis
or Talitrns ; but this difficulty may possibly arise from the antennae of many
of the individuals being imperfect.
ZOOLOGY.
205
14. Talitrus Nugax.
TalitrusNugax. App. to Parry's Third Vayagc^.uo.
Gammarus N.gax. Supp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxix.
Cancer Nugax. App. to P/,ipps's Voyage, y>. lo,. Plate xii. f5g. 3.
Taken off Low Island, and in Hecla Cove, abundantly.
15. Talituus Edvaiidsii. (Sabine.)
Talitrus Eclvardsi^S,,.;,.^o/'a„y.F/.UVi7c^^^ Plate ii. fig. ,, 4. App. to
Parry s Hard Voyage, -j^.lW). 'V/'- •»
etZfl '" "" ''f ' ^r ■ ^"^' ""'" ■■' ''''' '="<-' '" " »'=' fro- => depth of
eighty fathoms m lautude 81° ff N. ; and some dead specimens were Lnd
on the loose ice to the northward of the Seven Islands, in lat 83° N
■m
16. Crangon Boreas.
W^abnndant in the shallow water to the westward of the Low Island of
17. Crangox Septemcarinatus. (Sabine.)
Crangon Septemcarinatus. Supp to Parr,i\ MV./ v
oipp. 10 farry s biisl Voyage, p. ccxxxvi. Plate ii. fig. Vi,\3.
description, and plate referred^ :ireXl;Tucr L^ '^^ "''^^"^■"
>nl
2 E
tj
206
APPENDIX.
18. Alpiieus Aculeatus.
Alphcus Aculeatus, Siipp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxxvii. Plate 2, fig. 9, 10. App. to
Parry's Third Voyage, p, 120,
Cancer Aculeatus. Fab. Faun. Grcenl. p. 839
Three or four individuals of this species were taken in the shallow water to the
westward of Low Island, agreeing perfectly with Fabricius's description above
quoted. The plate referred to above is also very excellent.
i )
19. Alpheus Polaris. (Sabine.)
Alpheus Polaris. Svpp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxxviii, Plate 2, fig. £, 8.
Taken in great numbers to the westward of Low Island of Phipps. These
differed from the description and plate referred to, in having generally a greater
number of teeth in the upper part of the rostrum, being, in most cases, about
seven above and four underneath, and also in having more spines on the middle
lamella of the tail ; in all other respects they agreed with the description and
very beautiful engraving. Some individuals were found as far north as 82°.
20. Clio Borealis.
Clio Borealis. Lam, vi. p. 2S6, Leach in Ross's Voyage, octavo ed, vol n. 172. Siipp. to
Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxxix, App, to Parry's Third Voyage, p.
21. LiMACINA ArCTICA.
Limacina Arctica. Lam. vi. p. 290. Leach in Ross's Voyage, octavo edit. vol. ii. p. 172.
Siipp. to Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxxxix, App. to Parry's Third Voyage, p, 120.
Tins and the preceding species were very numerous in the Polar sea as far as
81°f N., towards the end of August, affording abundance of food for the numer-
ous waterfowl which at this season are preparing to migrate with their young to
the southward.
BOTANICAL APPENDIX,
BY
PROFESSOR HOOKER, LL.D., F.R.A., & L.S.
Regius Profetsor of Botany in the University of Glasgow.
The following List of Plants, collected during the Fourth Voyage, under Captain Parry's com-
mand, to the Arctic Regions, is very limited in the number of its species, owing to the
unfavourable circumstances which compelled Captain Parry and his officers to spend almost
all their time either upon the water or the ice. The greater portion were gathered by those
gentlemen who remained in Spitzbergen, while the principal part of the expedition was en-
gaged in an attempt to reach the North Pole. One species of IMoss appears to be new ;
but, being destitute of fructification, and belonging to a tribe of that beautiful order of plants,
which is remarkable for the Proteus-like forms of the indi\ iduals which compose it, I am
unwilling to speak otherwise than doubtfully concerning it.
Those species that were gathered in Ross's Islet are peculiarly interesting, from the circum-
stance of that island constituting the most northern known land in the world.
In many instances, particularly of the Mosses and Jungermanniic, I have inserted the names
of species of which I found fragments only among the tufts of other ijlanls ; and with re-^ard
to the Hammerfest plants, I may observe that the greater portion of (hem belong to a collection
picked out by Captain J. C. Ross from the reindeer moss which was recei\c(l on board the
Hecla at that place.
The Spitzbergen specimens were principally collected by Captain Robs and :\Ir. Halse,
and Lieutenant Crozier.
Wm. Jackson Hooker.
Glasgow, December 13, 1827. .
i
m
m
Ml
,M
2E2
i si
208
APPENDIX.
PLANTS OF SPITZBERGEN.
DICOTYLEDONES.
I. RANUNCULACEiE.
1. Ranunculus.
1. Ranunculus nivalis.
a. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxiv. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 382.
3d Voy, App. p. 121. In Linn. Trans. * vol. xiv. p. 385, and p. 361.
^. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxiv. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 382.
Hab. a, HecKi Cove, Spitzbcrgcn. /3. Walden Island.
Tlic specimens gathered in the latter station, though subjected to pressure between paper and boards during
the voyage, were still living on their being unpacked in England in the month of December, and have evidently
been vegetating in that situation.
¥
iff ,!
IT. PAPAVERACEiE.
2. Papaver.
2. Papaver nudicaule. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App, p. cclxv. Hooker in Parry's
2d Voy. App. p. 384, In 3d "\'oy, App, p. 122. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 362 and 385.
Hab. Hccia Cove, Low Island, but stunted and small. Waldcn Island.
The sjjccimens from the former spot have the flowers remarkably large and beautiful ; some of them broader
than a half-crown-piece would cover.
III. CRUCIFER,^.
3. Draba.
3. Draba alpina. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App, p. 265. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy.
App. p. 385. In 3d Voy. App. p. 122. In Linn. Trans, vol, xiv. pp. 363 and 385.
Hab. Hecla Cove.
Varying much in the colour of its flowers, from a very deep yellow to a pale dingy sulphur colour, and almost
to a white. Amongst them arc some which I scarcely know whether to refer to the />. paucijtora of Brown
in the Ist Voy. App. p. cclxvii., or to D. alpina,
4. Draba hiria. Var. 4. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. p. 386. In 3d Voy. App. p. 122.
Hab. Hecla Cove.
* Hooker's Account of a Collection of Arctic Plants, formed by Captain Sabine in Greenland and Spitzbergen.
BOTANY.
209
4. Platvpetalum.
5. Platypetalum purpurasccns. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxvii. Hooker
Parry's 3d Voy. App. p. 122.
Braya arctica. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 387.
Hab. Hecla Cove.
5. Parrya.
6. Parrya nrctica Brmvn in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxviii. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy
App. p. 388. 3d Voy. App. p. 123. ^ '
Hab. Hecla Cove.
6. Cardamine.
7. Cardamine beUidifolia. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxx. Hooker in Parry's
2d Voy. App. p. 389. In 3d Voy. App. p. 122. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p 38G
Hab, Hecla Cove. Low Island. Walden Island.
in
M'
&
1
IV. CAUYOPHYLLE^.
7. SlLENE.
HlB^'HelTof * """"" '" ^''"''^ '' ''°^- ^PP- ''' '''• '" ^'""- T--' vol xiv. p. 3r.5.
8. Lychnis,
9. Lychnis apetala. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. Ann n crlw M^.i • n
9. Cerastium.
10. Cerastium alpinum.
a. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxx. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy Ann n 390 T
3d Voy. App. p. 123. In Linn, Trans, vol. xiv pp. 3G7 and 386 ^' ^^ ^' ' '"
^. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy, App. p. cclxxi. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. Anp „ 390
Hab. -and , .„ Hecla Cove, and on Lo. Island, where , beco.nes very dwarnsl. uu/fj n , , .
where the specimens grow to an unusually larire size 'J'h.v l...-. f i • T ' ''''" '''""'^•
have the u.argins strongly ciliated. ' ^ ''"'' ^'"^ '""" "" '^' ^"'•'■"^ "^ *''« leaves, but
10. Stellaria.
11. StellariaZffito. Richardson in Franklin's Journ Ann ,. 7*« tr i • ^
Voy. App. p, 390. • "^^'P- P- ^•^^- H°°'^°«- '» P'-^rry's 2d
Had, Hecla Cove. Low Island.
This lias been found on the Rocky Mountains by Dr. James.
12, Stellaria humifum. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy Ann n 3qi T„ -ii ir ^
p. 124. In Linn. Trans, vol. iv. p. 307. ^' ^' ^'^ ^'^y* ^PP*
Hab. Hecla Cove.
ii'
1
210
APPENDIX.
11. Spergula.
13. Spergula saffinoides. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 389.
Had. Hcclii Cove.
12. Arenaria.
14. Arenaria rubella. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 391. In 3d Voy. App. p. 123,
In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. .308 and 386.
A. quadrkahis. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxi.
Hab. Hccla Cove. W.ilden Island.
V. SAXIFRAGEiE.
13. Saxifraga.
Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxiii. Hooker in
In 3d "N'^oy. App. p. 124. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 369
Hooker in Parry's
15. Saxifraga oppositifoUa.
Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 392.
and 386.
Had. Hecla Cove. Low Island. Walden lalanJ,
16. Saxifraga ^a(/e/?arjs. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxiii.
3d Voy. App. p. 124. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p. 369.
Hab. Hecla Cove. Low Island.
Found on the Rocky Mountains by Dr. James.
17. Saxifraga aizoides. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 393.
Hab. Hccla Cove.
18. Saxifraga riialaris. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 393. In 3d Voy. App.
p. 124. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p. 370.
S. Iiyperborca. ? Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxiv.
Hab. Hccla Cove. Walden Islar i.
19. Saxifraga ctespitosa.
Var. Surculis nullis, foliis pleruniquc trifidis subciliatis, caitlc uni-trifloro, ealyce nigro-pubescente glanduloso.
S. cwspitosa. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. Aj)p. p. 393. In 3d Voy. App. 121. In Linn.
Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 370 and 386.
S. uniflora f Brown in Parr}''s 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxiv.
Hab. Hccla Cove. Low Island. U'alden Island.
Varying much in the colour of the calyx and peduncle, and in the glands, as well as in the number of flowers
upon each stem or scape. Some of the specimens from U'alilcn Island have the flowers almost wholly sessile.
20. Saxifraga /oiio^osa. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxv. Hooker in Parry's 2d
Voy. App. p. 393. In 3d Voy. App. p. 124. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 371 and 386.
Hab. Hccla Cove.
21. Saxifraga nivalis. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. Apj). p. cclxxv. Hooker in Parry's 2d
Voy. App. p. 393. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 371 and 386.
Hab. Hecla Cove.
Gathered on the Rocky Mountains by Dr. James.
BOTANY.
211
22. Saxifrnoa cnrma. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxv. Hooker in Parry's 2d
Voy. App. p. 394. In 3d Voy. App. p. 125. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 371 and 38(5.
Had. Hccl.i Cove. Low Island. VValdcn IbIuiiJ.
'il|r'
23. Dryas octopetala.
H*u. Hcclii Cove.
VI. ROSACEA.
14. Dryas.
The leaves arc very mueh eut at the margin, as in />. ocfoprMa ; but the ba.e is ronlate, as in the Mh,,
of D. ,ntegr,fol,a. />. octopetala has been found on the Rocky Mountains in a latitude as far South as 30^
15. POTKNTILLA.
24 Potentilla^u^cAe^ja. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxvii. Hooker in Parr/s
2d Voy. App. p. 395. In 3d Voy. App. p. 125. ^
Had. Hecla Cove.
25. PotentiUa «a.a. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxvii. Hooker in Parry's 2d
Voy. App. p. 395. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 372 and 387
Both these speeies of />o,.„^///„„.su.ne a very dinerent appearance when in fruit ; the stalks runui.,. out
to a nuich greater len-th, and the leaves being considerably larger.
Hab. Hecla Cove.
VII. COMPOSlTyE.
16. Leontodon.
26. Leontodon ^«?„,^.. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxviii. Hooker in Parry's
VIII. ERICINEiE.
17. Andromeda.
27 Andromeda fe/rajron^. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxi. Hooker in Parry's
2d Voy. App. p. 400. In 3d Voy. App. p. 127. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p. 37G
Hab. Hecla Cove.
IX. SCROPHULARIN^.
18. Pedicularis.
23. Pedicularis hirsuta. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 402. In 3d Voy A,,, n
127. In Luin. Trans. voL xiv. p. 377. ^^'^'
Had. Hecla Cove.
,j..^ -
212
APPENDIX.
.1 '
1 1'-^ ■
X. POLYGONE^.
10. POLYGOXUM.
29. Polygonum viviparnm. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxxi. Hooker in
Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 403. In 3d Voy. App. p. 127. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 379
and 387.
Had. Hccla Cove.
20. OXYRI.V.
30. Oxyria rcniformis. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxxii. Hooker in Parry's
2d Voy. App. p. 403. In 3d Voy. App. p. 127. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. pp. 378 and 387.
Had. Hecia Cove.
XI. AMENTACE^.
21. Salix.
31. Salix herbacea. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 404. In 3d Voy. App. p. 128.
Had. Hecla Cove. Low Island.
MONOCOTYLEDONES.
XII. JUNCEiE.
22. LuzuLA.
32. Lnzula hyperborea. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxxiii. Hooker in Parry's
2d Voy. App. p. 405. In 3d Voy. App. p. 198. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p. 380.
Had. Hccla Cove. Low Island.
XIII. CYPERACEiE.
23. Carex.
33. Carex fuliginosa Sternb. and Hoppe. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 406. In
3d Voy App. p. 128. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p. 380.
C. misandra? Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. xVpp. p. cclxxxiii.
Hab. Hecla Cove.
24. Eriopiiorum.
34. Eriophorum cajntatum. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cclxxxiv. Hooker in
Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 407. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p. 380.
Hab. Hccla Cove.
■A<
;if
BOTANY.
213
XIV. GRAMINE^i:.
Had. Hecla Cove. Low Island,
36. Poa arclica. Brown in Parrv's Uf X"".^,, \ i
voj.. Apj, „ .„a ,„ 3„ vo, ,:;l: 'i\7,;„.t;,::: :: .":r";; C""" " ''"'- ^
Had. Hcela Cove : found also viviparous. • » "'• Xi , . p. JSU.
20. PiiippsiA.
37. Phippsia algidu. Brown in Parrv'* 1 of V„„ a
Voy. App. p. 129. ^ ^"' ^ °^- ^I'l'- P- ^-^'^^-^^•- "ooker in Parry's 3cl
llAB. Low Island, plentiful: Waldeu Island, and II,.,-Ia (]ove
In age ti.e liirgcr of ti.e two calycine valves ofu-n fall, ■.„•„. 'i... • „
very brown at. that period ; and there is one sne . ;; J '^ 7 ^-'f'' "" ^ "" ^'"""'^' *""' "-
much divaricated. ' '" *''" •^^""•-''^t"'". "Inch in that state has the panicle
27. Fkstuca.
38. Featuca brci'i folia. Brown in P.,.-,,'. i * i- a
iu Parry's 2d Voy. Xpp. p. 408 ' "'' ''' ''■ ''^'"^•^'^' ^"'^ '^"^'-^- "°«J<-
Hab. Hecla Cove.
28. DuPoxTiA.
39. Dnpontia Fisheri. Brown in P'irrv'« l.t \r k
Voy. App. p. 409. ^ ' ^'' ^ "y- ^^PP- P- ^^^<^'- "ooker in Parry's 2d
Hab. Hecla Cove. Low Island.
Found sometimes viviparous ; entirely so in the latter station.
29. HlEROCIILOE.
40. Hierochloe jjauc/^ora. Brown in Parrv'« l<.f v^„ a
2d Voy. App. p. 410. In 3d Voy. Ip^ p ^ '' ^°^' ^P^'" ^' "'^^'"- "-^^^ '« Parry's
Hab. Low Island.
ACOTYLEDONES.
XV. LYCOPODINE^.
., 30. Lycopodium.
41. Lycopodium Selaqo. Hooker in Pn.r.,'e o i ir .
130. In iL Trans, vl xiv p. 394. ^ ^^^ ''^^'- ^^ ''^' ^" ^^ ^^°y- App- p.
Hab. Hecla Cove.
XVI. EQUISETACE^.
.cy -cf . ^^ Equisetum.
h!.. Sit: ''°"'^'"""- •'°°''" '" ^"'^'^ ^-l Voy. App, p. 411.
I
I
ifi
'hi
2 P
S14
APPENDIX;
1
■.A
■■■■ i
I .
XVII. MUSCI.
32. Bryum.
43. Ilryum paluslre. Hooker m Parry's 2(1 Voy. App. p. 411.
IIaii. Will Jen Island. Ilcclu Cove.
44. Bryum tiinjidnm. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. ccxcv. Hooker in Parry's 2d
Voy. App. p. 411.
Hah. Ilccia Cove. No rriirtificaMon.
45. Brytim rnnhnn, ITookt-r in Parry's 2(1 Voy. App. p. 411.
Hah. U(»ss"s Islet. Ilccln C'ovr,
4G. Bryiim acspit'dium. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. Ajjp. p. 411. In 3d Voy. App.
p. 130. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p. 3^38.
IIah. Ilctla Ckvc.
47. Brynm turJnnatum, Hooker in Parry's 2il Voy. App, p. 412.
Hab. Ilpclii f'ovo. IJarrcn.
48. Brynm .^ I'oliis ovato-rolnndatis laxe inibricatis valde concavis arutis insigniter reticu-
latis, ncr\o ante apicem evanesccnte.
Hah. lift la Vu\e,
There is no fruit on this ])Iant, which has entirely the Iiahit of a Firyum, and will rank near to If. turhi-
iiatuin : but the structure of its leaves is dilferent from any that I am acquainted witli.
33. CiNCLIDIUM.
40. Cinclidinm sfi/giiim. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 41.3.
IIar. Ilecia Cove, niirren.
34. Hypnum.
50. Hypnnm nitcns. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. ccxcv. Hooker in Parry's 2d
Voy. Ap|). p. 414.
Had. Ilecia Cove.
51. Hypnnm adnncnm. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. ccxcv. Hooker in Parry's
2d Voy. App. p. 414.
Had. Hecia Cove. Ross's Islet.
52. IIy[)nn:n cupnssifunnp. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 414.
Had. Uoss's Islet.
53. Hypnnm iincinatum?
Hab. HecIa Cove.
35. Trichostomum.
54. Trichostomum lanvcjinosum. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. ccxcvii. Hooker in
Parry's 2(1 Voy. App. p. 416.
Had. Ross's Islet. Walden and Low Islands.
i
BOTANY.
S15
3G. DiCRANUM.
65. Dicranum virens. Hooker in Parry's 2il Voy. App. p. 41G.
Hab. Hecia Cuve. Low Island. Walden laland.
66. Dicranum /uscescen*. Hooker in Parry's 2il Voy. App. p. 416.
Hab. Little Table hlmid.
37. Wkissia.
67. Weissia crispula. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 417.
Hab. Hccia Cove.
\l.i
38. PoLYTBICHUM.
58. Polytrichum septentrioiiale. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 418.
Had. Ross's Islet.
59. Polytrichum alpinum. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. i). 418. In 3d Voy. App.
p. 130. In Linn. Trans, vol. xiv. p. 388.
Hab. Hecla Cove. Wnldcn Island.
39. Splaciinum.
60. Splachniirn Adamsiamim. Hornsch. in Hor. Physic. Berol. p. 57. t. xii.
S. paradoxum ? Br. in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cccii.
Hab. HcdaCove.
This inoss perfectly accords with my authentic specimens of .SI. Ailams'mnnm, where likewise the operciilum
has the appearance of bein^ an uninterrupted continuatit)n of the capsule, destitute of suture, and only dis-
tinguishable by its paler colour.
Dr. Richardson has found the same plant mi his second journey, and is of opinion also that it is the same as
the S. Adamsiannm of Ilornschuch.
Amongst specimens of this moss gathered by Captain J. C. Ross, in the same tuft, and 1 think without
doubt belonging to the same plant, are stems upon longer stalks, bearing capsules without operculum ;
others, in which the separation between capsule and operculum is marked by a distinct suture ; anil some, finally,
from which the operculum has fallen away, leaving exhibited llie peristome, the teeth of wliioli are united
almost to the summit in fours. I should, therefore, be disposed to consider the former state as a variety or
monstrosity, depending upon climate, in the same way, perhaps, as the linjum ctespilltiiim in very alpiiic situ-
ations, or in extremely northern latitudes, is found destitute of an inner peristome ; becoming the Pli/cliosfoinum
of authors ? I may add, that, in dissecting the variety which possesses no distinct o|)erculum, I can find, as may
be expected, no trace whatever of peristome, although the capsules contain ripe seeds.
40. VoiTIA.
61. Voitia hyperborea. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. ccciv. Hooker in Parry's 2d
Voy. App. p. 419.
Hab. Hecla Cove.
2F2
'I
.1
I. .
i
m^
'!;
lil-i
f •
<r:.\\
ill } II I
216 APPENDIX.
XVIII. HEPATICyE.
41. JUNURRMANNIA.
C2. Jungcrmniinin minuta. Brown in Parry's Ut Voy. App. p. cccv. Hooker in I'arry'a
2cl Voy. App. p. 420.
Hah. RiiHst'ii IbIvI,
()3. Jnngormniinia scalaris. Hooker in Parry's 2il Voy. App. p. 420.
IIab. U'ikMcii IblitiiJ.
XIX. LICHENES.
42. Gyropiiora.
G-1. Gyropiiora /rsW«/(/. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 421. In 3(1 Voy. App. p. 130,
JIau. ll(i.s!i'» I)t!et. \\'itl<lcii IsIiiikI.
05. Gyropiiora crosa. Hooker in Parry's 2(1 Voy. App. p. 421. In 3(1 Voy. App. p. 130.
Had. Low Inlaiul. Little Tabic Island.
(50. Gyropiiora dcusta. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 421.
II A II. Ilnss's Islet.
43. Lecanora.
G7. Lecanora tartnrca. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 422.
Had. Hcilii Cdvc. U'aUIen Island.
68. Lecanora eleyans. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cccv. Hooker in Parry's 2(1
Voy. App. p. 422. In 3d Voy. App. p. 130.
Had. Hct'lii Cuvp. Walden Island. Ruas's Islet. Low Island.
44. Parmklia.
GO. Parmelia saxatiliit. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 422.
Had. Wuldeti Island.
45. Cktrakia.
70. Cetraria niialis. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cccvi. Hooker in Pany's 2d
Voy. App. p. 423. In 3d Voy. App. p. 131,
Had. Ilccia Cove. Low and U'aldcn Islands. Ross's Islet.
71. Cetraria cuculluta. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cccvi. Hooker in Parry's 2d
Voy. App. p. 423.
Had. Walden Island.
72. Cetraria islandica. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cccvi. Hooker iu Parry's 2d
Voy. App. p. 123. In 3d Voy. Apj). p. 131.
Had. Hccla Cove. Little Table and Low Islands. Ross's Islet.
:,<
A ' I
BOTANY.
217
4G. Peltidea.
Vol!' C M'^^'*'*"'"' '''°™ '" '""''' '" ^°'- ^'''■- ■'• ""'• "-"" ■" '-""y" ai
Had. Iffclii Ctrtc.
74. Peltidea raniiia.
Had. Hctlii Cove.
47. Cenomyce.
75. Cc-nomyce «/HVor,„-,. Drown i„ Parry', l.t Voy, Ap|,. p. cccvii. Hooker in ParryV
2(1 Voy. App. p. 12 J. In .3,1 Voy. App. p. 131. ^
Had. Wiildcn, ami Little 'I'able iBlaiids.
70. Cenomyce j,y.,VM, n^onn in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cccvii. Hooker in Parry's
2cl ^ oy. App. p. 424. h, 3(1 Voy. Aj)p. p. 131. ^
Had. Uoss'h I»lct. Little Tabic fslaml.
77. C^uomycc srncllis. Hooker in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. 424. In 3J Voy. App „ 131
Had. L .w Man... Little Tal.le and U'al.lcn Island.. Kosss Islet. ^ ^^' '
Ai!!® p''l3r'" ""'^"'''"" "°''" '" ''""^'^ ''' ""''- ^^^- P- ^2'. In 3d Voy.
Had. Ilcrla Cove.
^70. Cenomyce vcna.ularU. Hooker in Parry's 2(1 Voy. App. p. 425. In 3d Voy. App..
Cernnia vormrmlarls. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p cccvii
Had. LiH hlanC,
48. ?i.Diu\f.
80. Tsidiiim oculalum. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. Ann. n. 425
Had. Waldcu L^land. •> » 1 I **'^-
49. Stereocaulon.
2d vi)* A"r;;'4T"'°'' """'" '" '■""'■' '" ''°>'- ""''■ "• ''"'■ "°°^" '" •""'/»
Had. Little Table Island, and Ross's Islet.
50. SpM^ERoriioRov.
82. Si)lucrophoron frafjile. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p 425
'<AB. V'alden Island. Ross's Islet.
51. Alectoria.
83. Alectoria>6a/«. ^ chahjheiforrrm. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App p 425
Had. Liltlc Table and Low Islands. Ross's Islet. > 1 1 • P- *'^0.
m^
52. CoRNICULARlA.
84. Cornicnlaria «(-«/(.«/«. ^ spadicca. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 495
Hah, Low Island. 1 1 j • ~- •
218
APPENDIX.
H
!'■ 't
i .»
!>!•-•■
1 -i
85. Cornicularia ochrolcuca. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cccvi. Hooker in Parry's
2d Voy. App. p. 426.
Hab. how Island, (i Ross's IsU t.
8G. Cornicularia lanatu. Brown in Parry's 1st Voy. App. p. cccvi. Hooker in Parry's
2d Voy. Ap|). p. 426.
Hab. llusss islet.
87. Ulva crispa. Linn.
Hab. Russ's Islet.
XX. ALG^.
53. Ulva.
54. Ptilota.
88. Ptilota plumosa. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. App. p. 427.
Had. Ross's Islet. Iliiinnierfest.
'* Found on the shores of Ross's Islet abundnntly, and also alon^ the shores of Low Island ,' and on the
beach above liig'h-wafer mark in a l/leavhed state, amoiigs* the larger sea-weed. (Tangle,")
Protococcns nivulisy or Red Snow.
Protococcus uivalis. Agardh Syst. Algarum, p. 13, Grcv. Scot. Crypt. Flora, vol. iv. t. 231.
Palniella nivalis. Hooker in Parry's 2d Voy. Ajjp. p. 429.
Paliuc'lla, — See notices rcspeclinj; it by Hooker in the Edinburgh Journal of Science, vol. i.
p. 383, vol. ii. p. 185, and vol. iv. p. 167.
Uredo uivalis. Bauer in Brande's Quarterly Journal of Science and the Arts, vol. vii.
p. 222, t. vii.
Lepraria Kermcsina, Wrangel in Vet. Acad. Handl. 1823, p. 71, t, iii.
Algarum species. Br. in Ross's A'oy. ed. 2. vol. ii. Apj). p. 195.
Terro rouge de la Neige. Sanssure's Voy. vol. ii, p. 44.
Red Snow ; relation of some experiments on the Fungi which constitute its colouring
matter. Bauer in Phil. Trans. 1820, p. 165, t. xvii,
Hab. Among snow upon the ice, nearly as far as the Arctic expedition extended ; viz. to lat. S2- J north.
Since tile discovery of tjiis ruinutc, yet highly curious vegetable prodiictiou by our Arctic navigators, living'
and vegetating in snow, and penetrating that element to a great depth in the high northern latitudes, the
attention of botanists in Kurope has been devoted to the suliject, and many valuable disquisitions, and some
exquisitely beautiful figures, illustrative of its history and structure, have ajipearcd. 'i'hiis has its true nature
been clearly ascertained, and I think there can be no more question of its being a true vegetable, and be-
longing to the order Alga;, than there can be of the Palinrlla cninila (which in the autnnni and winter months
especially abouiuls on rocks and walls in every jiart of IJritain) being a vegetable and an Alga. Snow, tinged
with a red colour, has long been observed by naturalists, and its appearance accounted for, without ever investi-
gating the nature of the substance, according to the fancy of the writer; some supposing k to have arisen
from the farina of jdants, jthers from the decomposeil matter of the rocks of a red hu': in the ni i<,'hbourhood,
while others have conjectured that the snow had fallen fr the heavens imbued ■., iili that colour .-—and, indeed,
the very sudden appearance of this |)henonienon in countries where it had not been observed before, would
almost seem to favour this latter supposition. Thus Agardh tells us that a relation is given in the Ita.ian
I !
BOTANY.
219
I.
tlio
ire
:li8
Isti-
ted,
lid
linn
Giorniilc <li Fisica for Novcmlior and Derciiiber, 1S18, of Red Snow tliiit fell upon tlin Italian Alps and the
AppnniiKN. In ^farrli 1S08, for Instanco, the whole country about Cailova, Itrilimo, and Fclfri, was, in one
single iii;j;lit, rovored to the depth of twenty centiniutros with a rosf-coloiireil s)t»w ; lint both before and after
it, jmre snow fell, so that the red formed a layer between the white. At the same time, a similar phenomenon
was witnessed on the mountains of \^ilteliii, lireseia, Carinthia, and 'J'yrol. Another fall is mentioned, as
occurring' between the 5lh and 0th days of Marnh, 1S03, at 'I"4)lmaz/.o in the Friaul, and one yet more remark-
able ill the iiiirht between the 1 Hh and loth of March, 1813, in <'alabria, Abriizzo in 'I'tiseany, and at lioloiriia,
and upon the whole chain of the Aiieniiines. On the loth of April, in the same year, linl Snow was said to
fall on the mountain of Tonal in Italy. In South America, Iliimboidt informs us of the statement he heard,
that at I'aramo of (Iiiaxacos, where the road fnim Iio^-ota to Popayaii passes at a heiifht of 2.'}00 toises above
the level of the sea, ml hull had been seen to fall. In (hese cases we must conclude either that the veiretablc
did c.\ist, tlioii;;;h unobserved, previous to the supposed perioil of its fallinir ; or, what is hiirhly probable and
fjiiitc consistent with what we know of other nearly aliied vciretable productions, that its |2;rowth and appear-
ance are very rapid.
De Saussiire seems to have been the first who speaks of bavins,' seen the Red Snow upon Mount Brcvcn in
Switzerland, ill 17C0; and he afterwards observed it to be so coninion upon the Alps, that he was surprised
that other naturalists had not remarked it, especially the accurate SchiMU'lizer. Mr. Ramond saw it on the
Pyrenees, and Soninierleldt in Norway, 'i'hat which was broiurht by Captain Ross from Hailin's Hay, in
7o', ol' N. latitude, first excited the attention of our naturalists, and irave rise to the adiniraMc observations
of IJauer, Mrowti, and W'ollasloii. It was a^aiii collectrd and brou^rht home diiriii!,'- the Second Voya^je, under Ihc
coniiiiand of Captain Parry, when it was found not only ^^rowiiiccon .liHOH', but altachid In slones ami mosses,
clothinijf them with a thin !,''eIaliiious cnist. This circtiinstaiice made its vei,'ctable origin appear still more
probable, and from the caicl'iil exaiiiinatioii of excellent specimens, irathered duriii!,' that expedition, I was
induced to refer il to the ifeniis I'ahnella*, from which, however, I acknowled;;e that it diU'ercd, inhavinsj the
graiiiiles of friictilicatiiui r.rlenuil, not imbedded in the ;,a'latiiioiis substance of the tcoiid.
The attention of continental botanists now be^'an to be excited, and in Sweden, the native country of
Linna'us, still yicldiii!,'' her ani|)lc proportion of naturalists of deep observation and research, IJaron U'ranifel
and the celclirated Ag'aidh published some admirable meinoirs upon the sulijcct, which tended to coutinn the
(ipiiiion that Itrown ami Hauer had advanced, as to the real nature and origin of the Red Snow ; and their
discoveries I have noticed in the voluines of liiewster's .loiirnal of Science. The Treatise of Arjfadh is indeed
fully ifiven in the fourth volume of that .lonrnai ; and that author clearly proves, by ; comparison of the Lipra-
riii I\i niirsiiKi lA' IJariui U'raiH^'cl (which tli' latter found in the province of Xeiike) with the R'd Snow
received from Dr. Wollasttui, that the two plants were the same, — thus identifying' it as a native plant of
Swedc'i. Agardli, however, overlooked the gelatinous structure of the plant, and described it as a new genus
(of which he took (he character fnnii the granules of IViRtilicatioii alone), iiniler the name which we have here
adopted, of I'rolticoccus.
Upon the continent of North America, during the lirst overland Arctic Kxpeditioii, Dr. Richardson re-
marked the ProtococcHs, forming a red siihstauce u|ion the stones at Fort Kuterprise, which tinged the sinnv
in siiriiig ; and which Captain Franklin recognised as heiui: the saiue which con>lituted the l{vil Snow he had
seen in Spitzberj,'en at the same period that Captain Ross oliserved it in KalKn's Itay.
In 1825, I showed Captain Parry's specimens of Red Snow, attached to stones, to the late Captain Car-
inichael of Appiii. Upon his return to the Ilighlandc-, whilst botaiiizin:r in the little island of Lismore, upon
the coast of Argylesliire, his experienced eye enabled him to detect the same substance growing abundantly
near water, upon half-decayed vegetable matter, sticks, reeds, and leaver, &c., and in still greater perfection
on calcareous rocks, which arc occasionally Hooded by the neighbouring lakes,
♦ See the observations ou I'ulinvitu nkalis in Parry's 'JJ \\<\. .\\t\), pp. 128, '.).
\l
II
M
II
\r
m
V
I .
220
APPENDIX.
',•!'•
Jv!
h i
"■ 3
W
m
From these gpcciiiiens, Dr. Greville made his beautiful fij,'urc8 in the Scottish Cryptogainic Flora, which ho
has nccuinpanied by a very elaborate history and description.
It only remains for nic to say, thiit, durinif the present voyajfc of Captain Parry, this highly interesting-
plant has been found in greater abundance perhajis than on any former occasion, and in a situation still more
remarkable ; for it was upon the^ocs nfice, extending nearly to the utmost limit of the journey, and there
too in such abundance, and so completely imbedded in the snow, that distinct red lines were left by the tracks
uf the boats or sledges on the surface ; thus vegetating in the most northern regions to vt'hich man has yet
been able to penetrate, and flourishing most in an element (or rather a state of an element) in which no
other vegetable, that we are acquainted with, ran exist.
The plates ilhistrative of this vegetable arc: —
1. An exquisitely beautiful representation by Mr. Bauer in Brande's Quarterly Journal of Science and the
Arts, vol. vil. t. vii. The |)edirlcs to the globules, which arc there represented in the highly magnified
figures, I have never been able to discover.
2. Mr. Bauer's figures in the Philosophical Transactions for 1S20, t. 17. These, however, are chiefly in-
tended to illustrate the mode in which that gentleman succeeded in cultivating the Red Snow in phials.
3. Baron \Vrangpl, as qiu)ted by Dr. Greville, in Vet. Acad. Ilandl. \Si3, p. 71, t. 3, in which the gelatinous
structure or frond is omitted.
4. Two representations in Dr. Nees" valuable work, entitled " Robert Brown's Vermischtc Botanischc
Scluiften." They are copied, the one from Mr. Bauer's figure in Brande's Journal, the other from
Baron ^Vrange^s plate, above mentioned.
5. Dr. Greville's excellent figures, from British specimens, in the fourth volume of his Scottish f'ryptogamic
Flora, t. 231. These perfectly accord with the result of my own observations, made both on Scot-
tish and Arctic plants.
Fuciis DUjitatus, Linn.
Had. Found on some parts of the beach of Low Island ; and near the entrance of Ilecla Cove; it formed a
line three or four feet deep, and for an extent of two or three miles. Amongst this mass Captain Ross
thinks the Dtihe (Hulymenia j)almatnj were found, but specimens were not brought home.
'■, -,- t
BOTANY.
221
PLANTS OF HAMMERFEST.
Arenar'ia peploides. Linn.
Pisum maritimiim. Linn.
1.
3. Antennaria dioiva. Br.
4. Liiinea horealis. Linn.
0.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Azalea prncumbcns. Linn.
Arbutus ulpina. Linn.
Vacciiiinm Vitis-Idca. Linn.
V. tdiijinositni, Linn.
Einpetrum nitjnim. Linn.
Diapensia lapponica.
Pinns sylvcslris. Linn.
Junipcrus comtnunis. IJnn.
DICOTYLEDONES.
1. Caryopiiylle/e.
2. Lhgumixos^.
3. CoMPOSITiE.
4. Caprifoliaci:.*:.
5. Ericixk^e.
G. Vaccinu-.e.
7. EMPETRKyr.
8. PRIMLLACEiE.
9. Amentace.tj.
Alpine Yaricty.
MONOCOTYLEDONES.
- 10. JuNCEiE.
IcJ. Juncus tri/idus. Linn.
11. Cyperaci;.e.
14. Eriophomm anrjmfifolium. IJuds.
1-, A,-, „^„ ■, r- ^2* GraMIXE-E.
!•). Mra crpspito.ia, Linn.
10. Poa trivialis. Linn.
2G
•»1
222
APPENDIX.
ACOTYLEDONES.
'I . ,
■i .r\ t :*rT
I * i
V
.r •^'#
!!:i
I 1
I
J'i
17. Asi)i(liumy?/(i-j)j«s. Swartz.
13. FiLiccs.
14. LvCOPODI.VCiE.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
20.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
31.
35.
3(5.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
45.
Lycopodium vlavatiim. Swurlz.
L. aniiutinuin. iSiuartz.
Hypimm ScJinbcrL Linn.
Trichostonniia fascicularc. Iledw.
Dicraiuiin Scopariitiu. Iledw.
D. loDtjifnUiim. Iledw.
D. elou(j(tlum. Iledw.
Polytriclium junlperinum. Iledw.
V. alpinum. Swurtx.
15. Miisti.
16. Hepatic\k.
)■
Jungcrmamiiii harhula. Hooker.
J. ciliaris. Hooker.
17. LlCUENES.
Parmelia nviphalodes. Ach.
Ci'trariii nivalis. Aeh.
C. islundicit. Ach.
Nephioina jW«;(.s ? Ach. No fruit.
Ceiioinyce pyiidnta, Ach.
C. diijilahi. Ach.
C. coccifent. Ach.
C. bcUidiJIora. Ach.
C. ecmncyno x. gracilis. Ach.
C. rangiferinu. Ach,
Slcrcocauloii paschide. Ach.
Splian-ophoroii fnnjile. Ach.
Fiicus serrattts. Linn.
V. nodosns. Linn.
V. vciicuhmus ? Linn.
ViWoia phi nwsa. Ay.
lhitchiiiaia/((s/(7/a/«. Ag.
18. Algjb.
223
ENUMERATION
OF THE
ROCKS OF SPITZBERGEN,
^tyn THE NEiGiinoriiiXG is/.es,
COLLECTED BY CAPTAIX PARRY.
By ROBERT JAMESON,
Regiu, Professor of Xatural IIi>lory anJ LeclnnT on Miocralo^y in tl,o UnivcrMty of !• .linburgl,,
F.R.S. L..^K, F.L.S., M.W.S.
Although the following notices of the rocks of Spitzbcrgen and some of the
neighbouring isles may seem meagre, yet when we consider that they are the
only ones we possess of that desolate and remote region, they cannot but be
viewed with interest by the geologist.
The analyses which follow were made by my young friend and former pupil
Mr. Reid, Lecturer on chemistry.
I
SPITZBERGEN.
I. RED BEACH.
Sccomhr// Roch.
Red sandstone, having a marly basis, with much disseminated mica. Those
varieties in which the quartz predominates are hard ; others, having an abundant
marly basis, are comparatively soft, with a tendency more or less marked to the
slaty structure.
Among the fragments of red sandstone, there is one of quartzy grcywacke.
Tliese red rocks probably belong to a rod sandstone newer than the old
red sandstone.
2 G 2
I' *i
224 APPENDIX.
II. NEAR MUSSEL BAY.
Primitive Rocks.
Grey Granite.
Small granular compact Red Granite.
Red Gneiss.
Mica-slate.
Hornblende-slate.
Snow-white translucent common Quartz with conchoidal fracture.
Sand from the beach, near Mussel Bay, 6th June, 1827. Gneiss-sand.
III. MUSSEL BAY.
Primitive Rocks.
Small granular greyish-white Quartz-rock, occasionally striped green with
chlorite, and containing imbedded precious garnet. Some varieties, from the
quantity of mica which they contain, pass into mica-slate ; occasionally also
imbedded crystals of common hornblende occur ; and in one fragment we ob-
served extremely minute asparagus-green crystals, which appear to be apatite.
Hornblende-slate with imbedded Iron Pyrites.
IV. HECLA COVE.
Primitive and Transition Rocks.
Bluish-grey Primitive Clay-slate ; shining lustre and thin slaty fracture.
Ash-grey, greenish-grey, and greyish-white Quartz-rock, in small and fine
granular distinct concretions, which latter variety occasionally is almost compact;
more or less translucent. Scales of mica occasionally disseminated in the mass
of the rock. In one specimen, layers of Clay- slate in the Quartz-rock.
One specimen of grey-coloured compact quartz, with intermixed pistacite.
Probably primitive.
Rose-coloured very fine granular translucent quartz rock.
Boulder of mica slate witli precious garnets. South side of Hecla Cove.
Primitive.
Snow-white fine granular Dolomite marble. Primitive.
;i
GEOLOGY. oot
According to Mr. Reid, this Dolomite contains
Carbonate of Lime .... G8.3
Carbonate of Magnesia . . 30.5
Siliceous matter .... 1.0
Loss 0.2
100
Bluish-grey small-granular foliated, slightly-translucent limestone. Primitive I
Coarse granular loosely-aggregated greyish-white translucent Quartz-rock,
partially stained with reddish brown colour. Transition.
Reddish-coloured compact Greywacke. Transition.
Specimen of Greywacke Slate. Transition.
Variety of Red Sandstone. Transition.
Slaty Red Sandstone. Transition.
Weathered Specimen, apparently of secondary Greenstone.
Soil op Spitzbeuge.v.
Mould from Hccla Cove.
According to Mr. Reid, it is composed of the following substances :
Silica 70
Carbonate of Lime 8.5
Carbonate of Iron 3
Vegetable Debris 2.5
Water 1-2
Loss 4
100
Its specific gravity is 2.750.
There was also a slight trace of Manganese.
It is remarked by Captain Parry, that the soil in this quarter is good, anu
covered with a tolerably abundant vegetation.
V. HECLA BAY.
Tramilion, Seconduri/, and AUuual Rods.
Mica-slate with precious Garnets.
Chloritc-slate.
w
.|r
If;,:
III
22G
APrKXDlX.
Specimen of grey-coloured granular Quartz-rock, with clay-slate passing into
mica-slate attached to it.
Compact Quartz, with disseminated Iron Pyrites.
From the top of the highest hill near the monument, Hccla Cove, small-granular
loosely-aggregated greyish-white Quartz-rock, with attached and intermixed
Brown Clay Iron Ore.
Small-granular augite Greenstone. Mr. Beverly^ in the narrative, alluding to
this rock, says^ " At about a quarter of a mile from the base of the high land,
immense masses of a very coarse granular rock (augite Greenstone) lie scattered
about, and appear to have been precipitated from the upper stratum of the
mountain. They are composed of ferruginous sand and hornblende (augite), in
such a state of decomposition as to crumble into powder under the hammer."
AUut'ud bluish-gra/ vesicular Plpc-chn/. Hccla'Cove.
According to Mr. Rcid, this clay consists of
Silica G5
Alumina . - 23
Oxide of Iron and Carbonate of Lime . 1
AVater II
100
VI. MARBLE POINT.
[See bottom of p. l-'j of the Narrative.]
Transition, Tertian/, and AUnvial Roclcs.
Limestone, dark-greyish black, inclining to brownish-black, compact, opa(iue,
traversed by numerous veins of red and white calcareous spar. When rubbed
emits a fetid smell.
According to Mr. Reid, this Limestone contains
Carbonate of Lime 99.6
Carbonaceous matter 4.4
100
Masses of ash-grey splintery chert, probably imbedded in the Limestone.
Masses of grey and white calcareous spar, in granular and prismatic concre-
tions, from the Limestone.
■' } I
<i'
C^KOLOCiY.
007
Specimens of red-coloured Sandstone, and of slaty grccnish-grey very small
granular Quartz-rock.
* *
Brown Coal. This Brown Coal, Captain Parry informs mc, burns with a
clear bright flame, and emits a pleasant odour. It probably belongs to a
tertiary deposite.
Greenish-grey Marl. Is decomposed Limes! one.
Specimens of ochrc-ycllow Alluvial clay.
* * * *
Vesicular Lava. This variety is sometimes named Pumicc-stonc. Captain
Parry says, that a groat many rounded pieces of this lava arc found on this part
of the Coast of Spitzbergcn, and generally above the inner line of drift-wood, as
if they had reached the highest limit to which the sea had attained.
VII. BEVERLY BAY.
Priiniticc Roc/is.
Beautiful, rather coarse-granular red-coloured granite, composed of pale flesh-
red feldspar, greyish-brown conchoidal translucent Quartz, and silver-white or
pinchbeck-brown Mica.
Grey coarse-granular Granite : Feldspar grey, Quartz sometimes milk-white,
translucent, with conchoidal fracture and shining lustre. Mica dark pinch-
beck-brown.
Mica-slate inclining to Gneiss, with abundant imbedded precious Garnets.
Qiiartz-rock, wliite, ash-grey, and greenish-grey, from small-granular to com-
pact, souTotimcs with layers of Mica, thus forming a transition to Mica-slate.
Other varieties widi disseminated Iron Pyrites ; some with Chlorite, and the
Chlorite at times so disposed as to give the mass a slaty structure.
VIII. CAPE FANSHAWE.
The small specimens from this quarter appear to be made up principally of
Sflicified Madroporitcs, Retcporites, Orthoccratites^ Tcrebratulitcs, and Cardites,
apparently connected with Limestone.
I
.-
jl
2-2S
APPENDIX.
ISLANDS.
; )
I!
}
"
I. LOW ISLAND.
Trans'tlinn Roc/is\
Purplish-red small-granular translucent Quartz-rock.
Small-granular translucent greyish-white Quartz-rock. This variety has some-
times a slaty structure, or rises in plates.
Grccnish-grey small-granular Quartz-rock, with slaty structure. This variety
appears to pass into greenish-grey slaty Sandstone,
Reddish Sandstone, with scales of Mica. There is a transition from this into
the reddish-coloured fme-granular Quartz-rock. This Sandstone appears fre-
quently to rise in tables or plates.
On the west point of this island Captain Parry observed the strata of Quartz-
rock dipping at an angle of 70° to the S. E. He also found strata of Clay-slate
at a distance from the shore, of blue, red, and yellow colours, and dipping in
various directions. The expedition also landed on the southern point of the
island, and found the strata to be clay-slate ; and near to this point is a hill about
one hundred and fifty feet above the sea, which is the highest part of the island.
The rocks of which the hill are composed, are of reddish slaty Quartz-rock dis-
posed in vertical strata.
II. WALDEN ISLAND.
Priiiiillce Roch'.
Granite, of a flesh- red colour.
Grey-coloured granitic Gneiss, with precious Garnets.
Grey-coloured porphyritic Granite, with imbedded milk Quartz.
Greyish-white small-granular translucent Quartz-rock.
Reddish-white small-granular rather loosely aggregated Quartz-rock.
Very small-granular greyish-white Quartz-rock, striped green with chlorite.
Grey-coloured Quartz-rock, with abundant scales of dark-brown mica.
Mr. Beverly observed the rocks on the south-eastern and lowest part of
TValdcn Island, which we presume are of primitive gneiss, traversed by veins.
GEOLOOY.
229
from twelve to twenty inches wide, of fine granular and grey granite, the sides of
which were of whitish felspar, about three inches wide. In some places the
granite cliffs were six hundred feet high.
III. ROSS'S ISLET.
Primitive Roch.
Grey and reddish Granitic-gneiss, very coarse-g mular, occasionally por-
phyritic, with imbedded precious Garnets ; also a flesh-red variety of the same
rock. Tiiis small island is the most northern known land of the globo.
Concluding Rcviarh.
From the preceding enumeration, it appears that Spitzbergen and its neigh-
bouring isles afford rocks belonging to five of the great classes, namely, Primi-
tive, Transition, Secondary, Tertiary (?) and Alluvial. The only volcanic specimen
in the collection is a very vesicular Lava found at Marble Point, whicii, however,
may have been floated thither from Iceland i Jan Mayen's Isle, both of which
are of volcanic formation. With the exception of disseminated Iron Pyrites and
brown-clay Iron Ore in Quartz-rocks, no metalliferous compounds were met with.
The only inflammable mineral in the collection is a >pccimcn of Brown-coal,
found at Marble Point, which, considering the nature of the country, is to be
viewed as very interesting, and leaves us to regret that the time of the officers
of the expedition was so limited, as to prevent their determining its geognostic
position. The Dolomite Marble from Hecla Cove agrees in colour, size of grain,
and other characters, with the statuary marble of Italy. In these islands, as in
Old Greenland, and several other islands discovered by Captain Parry during
his former voyages, the Precious Garnet abounds. Its occurrence in Ross's
Islet, and its known distribution in other countries, shews that of all the gems it
has the widest geographical range, extending in the northern hemisphere from
the equator to the high latitude of the mobt northern known land.
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