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J - ^ - •> — '^^ — 9^ _v^ -.X><- ^"-v^ - .'^ -T," ^ : > :<, * ■' s .V / % -^ ^"^ ^ ^sr ^ S A I !. I N(} I) 1 11 K(!T IONS AM) 'R E MARKS A( < OMI'AMKI) WITH A NAUTICAL CJIAlVr ^ OK 1111, V. NORTH SIIORK OF l>AKK KlilK. i • BY CAPTAIN ALKX. .McN"1:1LLK1)(;K •^ OK Pour iiovKit, t. \\ . )'i>r'n»*tly 81up M.»slei out tij^'TiTrl of P))il.(Jt>I|>lii i. / ^ _ ri»^'~ H \ ' F V A T. : STKAM PRKSS OF JEWKTT. THOMAS &, CO ( "udiincri lal AdvciU«(.T BuilJiiifs ^ ■ 1H4H. rt J "^ # \ I'-iiltrt'il ui tor.liii(( lu Art (.(" ( 'oijtjri'-H. in tlic yc.ir I - IH, i ii the (."Icrk'a Othi-c I'l till- .Nwiilicrii ItiHlmi (,f thr Stale of New ^ Krk, l.y JIAVKT'l'. 'J'lloM AS A. Co. '."(f). -^ ;t} SAILING DIRECTIONS ^ Tlirsr i('iii;irl<^ ;ii(' ;i( ( (Hiiji.'iiiicd t)\- ;i (li;iii of 1 lie nordi sIkmcoI' L.ikc Kvn' fVom hdow |*(»iiit yMiiiio lip 1<» I'oitit 'P('l(M";iii.l tlic Isl;iii(ls. As llir (';iiin(l;i, shore is in'tliii'j; iiioiT rr('(|ii('iitc(l |)\ tlic iiiiiik rous Ncssf'ls \ carK im rcisiiiL; (»ii Lakes Mric and ()iita- ri(»,(lir()iii;ii Ihe Wrll.iiHl ( 'anal, tliis will he flnmd a picUy liiir ;i;iiid(' jl.r aiu Ma-tcr lo liaNC. As (lie s(i-aiiii;('i- ;j;ciici-'ally ,L;i\('s (lie iKnili sIkji'c a \\ idc hcrtli, hcarinii; the name of an iron bounif'lliore, and no Hncct ions to j^o hw Tlie coniM's and di>(an<(-, will lie (ImmkI |ii'('l(\' correct Corany slianucr to 1:0 l.\. and will often e.ise the niind (»!" the man ha\ inu' the ihai-<'-e The conrses ai'c all h\' compass, \\lii(h is al(o«!-etli- cr used on the Lake. There is ail ea>terly \ari.i'ion on the Lake whicli increases as you l;() to the wot ; ]iowe\(i'. it is not taken notice of, as tiny all i;o h\ their conii>ass courses. I ha\'(! ol'teii tliou;:;lit it sini^iilar tliat there has not heen charts or diivM f ions flir t he (.'anada shon\ All t he lake ( )ntario captains on hot h sides, and the Lrie captains on t he Aiiieri( an >ide, ai'e afraid of" th(3 north shore, and indeed a uikmI reason llie\ liaNC (howcNCi-, it is ^•et.tin'_;" pretty well li;;-hte(lj^ a liuht r.>.i. liouso oil Point Abiuo is very much wanted. Tho iioxt 8 miles west is Gravely l^ay, now (ailed Port Colbomne, hut the woiks,will not he iini^hed until next year, when- there will he a lighthouse, whieh tvill make a douhle entrance to the Welland Canal, and will he found very useful, according to 'the sea--- son of the year. The next 15 miles west is Gull or Mohawk Island. There is a hghthouse, built of stone, which is ex- pected to be in operation this spring and will be a revolving light, which will be found very useful for vessels going up Qr down the Lake. The next four miles NW is the Grand River, now called Port Mait- land ; the lighthouse is on the west pier. The next light is Port Dover, about 40 miles W. The lighthouse is on the west pier, and bears from Long Point lighthouse NW, about 25 miles. The next is the lightship in the " Cut," about 20 miles to the westward, through Long Point Bay, off" Pt. Rowan. ^ The next is Port Burwell, about 20 .mil^s WTst. The lighthouse is on the hill, (starboard hand going in. The next is Port Stanley, 20 miles to the west. The lighthouse is on the w^est pier. The next, about 40 miles west, is the " Round 0," so called by the sailors — the old French name was Ronde Eau, or Round Water. This is a good harbor. The lighthouse is on the west pier. The next lighthouse is on the NE end of Point Pelee Island, about 40 miles SSW. Then you are up to what they call " the Islands." r r) S' R E M A R K S. Vessels leaving Buffalo, bound up the Lake, and meeting with the wind down the Lake, and not got as far up as to feteh the Grand River, not wishing to go })a('k, the oidy place to run for is the anchorage under Point Ahino. In .running down, give the J?oint a reasonable berth, stand on till you bring the house in the upper end of the bay to bear 8W by W, then haul up WNW, sfcind^in till you smooth the water. Yon will have 15 or 1 6 feet. You can stand farther if you choose into 9 or 10 feet and bring the house to bear W by S, and you will be entirely out of the sea. If you have got up so as to make Grand River, sbmd for the lighthouse, which is on the west pier. In the spring of the year you will generally find a strong current going out, and it will be necessary for to keep good canvass on the vessel, so as to stem the current — and on entering the pier, have your hands stationed and your main peak • ready to dip ; also your main sheet manned ready to ease off and haul aft, as occasion requires. By attending to this you will avoid yawing against the pier. "^The course in is about NNE- It is right to know this, as you can have your sails trimmed according to which way you have the wind. Last spring I was taking a trip in jbhe Shamrock, Capt. R. Fyfield. We were standing in for th6 riv- er, with a smart leading breeze about NW, there was a splendid new schooner from Cleveland coming in A* » 6 11" I' I \ .!'. after us, deeply laden with wheat. He saw the way we had to uianouver, as the current ^vas very strong. Just as he entered the pier, his vessel gave a yaw, and eame bang up against the west pier by the lighthouse, and stove her larboard bows in above water although she liad solid bulwarks forward. It is well enougli to mention these things as it will put peoi)le on their guard. If you get uj) as far as Long Point, and meet with a head wind, and wish to anchor under the Point, " off the Big Bluff ; round the Point, keeping your *" lead going, and work up and anchor any w^here you please, OAving to the ,way you have the wind. But if the weather looks bad, there is often a heavy sea and a groundswell, and likely you wiU have to leave your anchor. But instead of anchoring under the Point, which will be owing to your own judg- ment and tlie looks of the weather, if you could fetch Port Dover, which is a good harbor to run'for, the directions are in the description of -Dover Har- bor ; and if you can't fetch Dover, the Cnind Kiver is under your lee, and by jooking at the sketch, you cannot go wrong — whereas lying at anchor under the I*oint in heavy leather, is not very pleasant wliile you have a good harbor under your lee. The next is the Ctit, about 30 miles west of the Point. If you have got up as far, and meet with ^i head wind, you can run in and come to anchor by the lightship), either ])y night or day. The course in is, get th6 lightship to bear NNW, then stand in, keeping the light a little on your larboard -bow. The east shore is the boldest, and by keeping your I/' s^ lead goin^ you will know when yon near the Avest side, as^^e water you carry in will he beat on the east side of the Cut, and come to anchor any where close by the lightship, in 11 or 12 feet. But when you o;et above the Cut, and the wind still ahead, it' it don't blow toQ hard, 3 on can make l(jn<^ stretches, as then you haY(5 (he whole width (if the J^ake ; and as these winds- acoi' and haul some points throughout the day, you will be able to judge what shore would be the best to be on by the evening, and very likely get a good slant up as far as the Jslands. _. Vessels coming up through the Welland, Canal, and abr>ut leaving the Graml River, bound up the Lake, as l^ong Point bears SW about 40 miles, you must be governed by the wipd you have, about what course vou will steer. Bound ui) to Port Dover, or through the Bay, get an offing ; then steer about W i S. As long as you see the Grand Kiver lighthouse, you are outside of the shoal, call(Ml the "Decomcie" Shoal, which bears fi'on'i the first point, called Hide's Point, NH, about 4 miles, and about ' the same distanc^e from the shore ; but if you shut the lighthouse in by the Point, you will be in djuiger of striking on the shoal. It is a' kind of flat, rocky place, from 4, o and G feet. Still stiuiding up, give Peacock Pointji reasona- ble berth. The shoal, you see in the sketchy bears from Peacock Point S by W 7 of 8 miles, and Port Dover bears about WNW ;'it is al)out an acre, with rocky bottom— the least is 10 feet, then 11, 12 and X w 8 15 feet. VoHsels passing over with ytheir centre- board down will strike on it^ Some springs I have*^, seen the k^ piled •on it, even after the Lake was clear. It used to be an old rule, in running for Port Dover in the night lime, before the harbor or light- house was built, and it will be well to mention it here, in case of thick weather, &c. — let it be ever so dark, steer west and keep your lead goinjij, now and then, and strike the hard bottom occasionally on your starboard hand ; then haul off and get in muddy bottom, and keep so until you see the laad right ahead ; and when you think you are near* enough by your own judgment, you can come to anchor in 2, 2 J, or 3 fathoms, and you will be at the anchorage a little above the harbor, with good holding ground. The reef to the eastward of the harbor, which is -mentioned in the description of Port Dover, makes a good shelter from a SE blow, and bears from the lighthouse SE IJ miles, and about the same distance from thd shore and a good chan- nel between, if it were buoyed out. <» But a buoy on the SW end of the reef, which I learn is soon to be placed there, will be very useful in sailing out or in the harbor. About 5 miles to the west* is Ryerse's Creek, or Port Kyerse. There is consideralll-e flour shipped from this place, and there has been a good deal of money kid out by the owners of the place in build- ing piers and dredging the creek and between the piers, for which they deserve a great deal of credit — but having no shelter, the SE blows often do much J n 9 W^ damage to the piens and works, kv. Vessels have tbrmerly loadcMl at the piers — now tliey have to load at anchor. There w a pile of %t one about the an- ehorapjc* a Httle al)ove the i)iers, that wan thrown over by some vessel. That you nuiHt ^uard against — it is right to know this, as in getting underweigh when you are kwided you may save some trouble. Six miles west is the hong Point Furnace, called Nonnandale. There lias been a good deal of busi- ness done hen) in the iron way. There is a sort of ^er, or quay built out with piles and brush and fill- ed in wiMi all the incombustible stulf from the fur- nace, which makes it pretty substantial. There is 8, 1). and 10 feet at the end. / The next is the " Deep Hole Channel," thtough tx) Port Rowan, or the " lightship in the Cut.x Pm- tering the channel the first course is abour\ SW, then SSW, keeping your load going — then haitl u]) W8W, and by looking at the sketc^h and using your own judgment, you will get through the Deej) llole Channel, to the inner bay. If you are bound for Co[)e's Landing, or Port Kowan, you will find (5 anlr' a.s you go down. Hut tliero is a n.s<» au(^ fHll, ow- ing to the winci. NW winds mi.se the I^ike. liefore the piers were huilt at Po^H^Dover, Hke Jill these outlets along the Lake, there were sand- hars outside. We used to have a deal of trouhle loading. We had a schooner, called the " I^rk," that took our flour and lumhor off. We often had to get oxen to snake the scow over the bir, and ipdeed often had to ligliten — an(f iftt'ofHer* times we have^gonc out clear with a full load, and in coming hack'' empty, the water would he fallen so as to o1)lige us to get oxen and snake the scow over aGcaih. And if we Avere in a hurrv at times, we would load the scow !n the hay ahove the creek, which is a hold shore, and haul the flour down to tlie beach and load off the wagons, or any way that was handiest. Now, vesscds can load inside, at the storehouses. There is 10 and 11 feet water coming in, and 12 anil 14 feet up the Creek, but like all these har- })ors along tho Lake, it requires the dredging ma- chino every two or three years, or oftener. A FKW REMARKS ABOUT THE Sou T H 8 H O R E From Buffalo up ft is a fine, plain, bold shore all the way to Sandusky. The course is about W8W. There is a vast contrast between the two shores in several cr cast on purpose, which was found very useful. Since that nobody has taken until recently anyrintere things, although J;here has b^ thr< sometimes five vessels owned here at a there was^but one. '', During the seasoii I took a trip no an^ paid a good deal of attention^r-more so tiian ¥ had done before. I likewise made a sketch and re- marks. In the fall I was at Grand River. / There were several Lower Lake Captains lying there, wind bound. Capt. H. M'Swain wished me to show them the sketch, and likewise told them what I intended doing. So they looked at it and were much pleased, and remarked it would be very use- ful to the Ontario captains on both sides, as they are all afraid of tlie North Shore of Lake Erie ; and if accompanied by a book of directions and remarks bj£ an old seafaring man, of course would take bet- ter — and wished me not to give it up. Capt. Tay- lor, who used to sail the Shamrock, was one of them, and being acquainted with me, he urjfed me to go on with it. s* - - / 21 % X»L A NATION. la the Caart there are 54 feet, 9 ^thorns mark-^ edoft Peacj)ck Pomt--the ," Captain's Dive." It may as welj be' explained, as nobody can say but what I have been down at the bottom of Lake Erie. In May, 1834, I was coming up from BuiMo on the steamer Thames, Capt. VanAllen. We left the night of the 17th. All that day it snowed and stormed in Buffalo, and when we left. Indeed the decks and ropes were covered with snow and ice. Next morning was clear and keep. We went ihto the Grand River. There being a Government sale *^wo»aays previous, one^ of tlie Dover men purchas- ed the Gt)vernment boat, a cutter-rigged, clinker- built thingjfwhiblj Uiey advised me to have towed up. There was on Koatd of her a fire-engine and other articles. Indeed fehe was stowed fuU of one^ truck and another, and a lot of pig iron in the bol torn. She towed very w)ell until off Peacock Poii^t when a little sea got up. Capt. VanAllen said/to "^e he had better "Seiid one of his men to bail lier. I said there was no occasion, I would go mjself. So she was hauled up, and L-went down by the fore stay. I had not been on board more than five minutes when, all at once, dowii she went. She must have started some butts or the wooden ends forward, as the last I saw was the pennant at the madt head ai^l me going down with her. There was a rope from each quarter of the steamer, but ^ \ % r r 22 I they muat have snapped like pipeatems, aa she went to the bottom on lier oven /keel, as we ascettained afpjj^ards. I was caught somehow by ray left amde, and went to the bottom with her. However somehow or other, I got clear and came up in a hurry. They were all in confusion on board the steamer, and some time elapsed before they got the boat down. When they-^^ked me up the boat was hAlf full of water, haviii^no plug in. The two men were so confused they did not take notice of it until I tol(l them. I took my har>^kerchief and stopped the hole. When I got on board, Capt. VanA-llen was very kind, also Mr. IVlAxwell the mate. They had a buoy put out, and^s\vent aft to take the bearings. Although it w^ in the middle of May, my clothes were all covered with ice. About the middle of July we took our schooner, the Lark, not having much to do, and went down^ to the place in hopes to grapple up some things — the engine, &c. We were Avell prepared. We swept her the second time, and. got the schooner -and a scow anchored! by the spot. The cutter tvas lying on the bottoni oQ her even keel, for when we began to 'grapple on to her, the ma.st, boom, sails, colors, arid all came right up. We got seveml things up, including the anchor, and were anxious to get hold of the engine. Every thing was going^ on very well, but it began to blow, and we were^bliged to leave off. Since that time no one has ever tried. ' This wan in July, 1834. / '3 i / RECOMMENDATION We, whose names are hereunder subscribed, Masters, Mates, and Mariners, navigating the Northern Shore of Lake Erie, and long acquainted with the navigation of that part of the Lake — hereby certify that wc have carefully examined a Chart and Sketch X)f the North Shore of Lake Erie, projected and drawn by Captain Alkxandkk McNeillkdoe, and read the notes ana directions accompanying the same; and we are fully satisfied of the correctness of the said Chart and direc- tions, and the great benefit they are likely to confer on per- sons navigating the waters of Lake Kne on the Northern Shore — And more especiiilly on strangers not heretofore ac- quainted with that navigation. And we strongly recommend tne work as one likely to prove of very great service to all navigators on that Lake. The long practical acquaintance of Capt McNkillkdok with the subject he has thus undertaken to bring before the nautical and trading p experience as a seaman and navigator, fu«fly qualify him for the direction and management of sucl^an undertaking, and we strongly recommend the w4rk to iJKc masters and owners of vessels navigating Lake Erie. ' ' Port Dover, Talbot District, Canada Wmt, May 3, 1848. DANIEL McSWAIN, Master Schooner N. G. HENRY McSWAIN, Mivtter Steadier Experiment. RICHARD FYFIELD. Master Schooner Shamrock. JOHN O'BRIAN, Master Schooner Oeorgiana. ■ MOSES McSWAIN, Sr. Master, a number of years on Lake /Erie. ROBERT ABBEY, Master Schooner Scotia. JOHN LAWRIE, Mate Schooner Shamrock. ROBERT MERCER Master Schooner Favorite. JAMES THOMSON, Master Schooner Susanna. MOSES FLETCHER, Master, a number of ytars on the Lake. * WILLIAM FARTHING, acquainted with the North Shore. HENRY VAN ALLEN, Master Steamer Canada. DAVID K. STEVENi?, Master Schooner North America. \