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THE

BRITISH ASSOCIATION'S VISIT
TO MONTREAL,

1884.

LETTERS

CLARA LADY KAYLEIGH,

Printed for Private Circulation,

Ionian :

PRINTED BY WHITEHEAD, MOEEIS & LOWS.

9, Pknchubch Steekt, E.C.

VICTORIA, B. G.

INTRODUCTION.

THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION.

(Reprinted from The Times, IbS-l).

It seems early to begin to speak of the arrangements
for the next meeting of the British Association, but it is
a far cry to Montreal, and a proportionately long start
must be made before the final leap is taken. So heartily
have the Dominion Government and the Canadian aavanta
entered into the preparations that everything is r3ady ; all
the presidents, vice-presidents and secretaries of sections
have been selected ; all arrangements made with steam-
ship companies and American railways ; all excursions
have been planned, and all possible routes provided for ;
instructions of the most detailed kind have been drawn
up for the guidance of members ; nothing has been left,
indeed, except what depends on contingencies of time and
place, so that Professor Bonney and his legion of officials
may at any moment take up their portmanteaus and walk
on shipboard. All this forwardness and completeness are
largely due to the zeal of the High Commissioner,
Sir Charles Tupper, and his energetic and obliging
secretary, Mr. Colmer. When the decision was come to
at Southampton to hold the meeting of 1884 in Canada
there was widely expressed disapproval of the step, and

A 2

doubt as to its legitimacy ; but the prospect of entertaining
the upper thousand of English science has evidently so
greatly gratified our Canadian brothers that even the most
stiff-necked opponent of the migration must be compelled
to give in if he has a shred of goodnature and brotherly
feeling loft. There are doubtless a few grumblers who
will maintain that the Montreal assembly will not be a
meeting of the British Association ; but after all this
Imperial Parliament of Science could not be better
occupied than in doing something to promote science in
one of the most important sections of the British
dominions. Indeed, since some maintain that so far as
this coui. concerned it has almost ceased to have a

raison d' light it not extend its functions and

endeavour to exercise the same effective influence on the
promotion of science in other parts of the Empire as it
has undoubtedly done in the past in the Mother Country ?
It can scarcely hope ever to hold a meeting either in
Australia or India, nor even, we fear, in South Africa ;
but there are other means which it might adopt more
appropriately than any other body to encourage the
progress of science in these parts of the Empire, and
make accessible to the public interested in it the good
work which is being done, at least in some of the
Australian colonies. In Canada itself there are several
important scientific societies; but so far as we know,
they have no common bond of union. Seeing that there
is already an efficient American Association, we should not
advocate the formation of a separate Canadian body ; but
possibly the Montreal meeting might be able to do some-
thing to federalise the separate Canadian societies. We
suggested some years ago that the Association might do
such a service to the jiumerous local societies in this
country, and we are glad to know that the suggestion has

borne fruit, and that already a real advance has been
made in this direction.

But whatever may be the results of the Montreal
meeting, it is clear from the programme which has been
drawn up that everything possible is being done to render
the occasion one of genuine enjoyment to all who are
fortunate enough to be present. The Canadian Parliament
has voted so handsome a sum for the entertainment of the
Association that its expenses are likely to be less than at
an ordinary meo<.i;;. Provision has been made for free
passages and free living for fifty of the officials, who need
not spend a penny from the time they set foot upon the
steamer until they step ashore a^T^in upon their native
land. Not only so, but a sum of $14,000 has been
allotted for the reduction of members' passages to Canada
in addition to any abatement of fares allowed by the
steamship companies. The most important of these
companies, sailing not only to Quebec and Montreal, but
to New York and Newport, offer reductions averaging
about 10 per cent, on the ordinary fares. The companies
who offer these advantages are the Allan, the Dominion,
the Beaver, White Star, Cunard, National, Anchor, Guion,
Inman, Monarch, and Union lines ; so that intending
visitors have ample choice of route. On the other side,
again, all the railway companies have shown the greatest
liberality. The Government railways are free to all who
produce members' vouchers. The Canada Pacific Line
will from July 1 up to the date of the departure of the
special free excursion to the Rocky Mountains, grant to
visiting members free passes over its lines to the northward
(Rocky Mountains, Lake Superior, &c.) and intermediate
points. This company also offers to one hundred and fifty
members of the Association a free special excursion to the
Rocky Mountains, by way of Georgian Bay, Thursday Bay,

and Winnipeg, providing that those places passed during
the night on the outward journey will be repassed during the
day on the return. The only thing members will have to
pay for will be meals, which will be provided at a rate not
exceeding 2s. Arrangements, moreover, will be made for
trips and excursions from Toronto, across Lake Ontario to
Niagara, under the direction of local committees to be
formed in both places, giving to all members an opportunity
of visiting the Falls. Various other excursions have been
liberally arranged for by the company, so that visitors
will have ample opportunity of seeing most that is worth
seeing in Canada for practically nothing. The Canada
Atlantic Railway has also arranged for several free
excursions, while the Grand Trunk, the North Shore, the
Central Vermont, and other railways in the States offer
tickets to members at something like half the usiial rates ;
thus those who proceed to New York may visit various
parts of the States before proceeding northwards to
Canada at extremely cheap rates. At all the Canadian
cities to be visited local committees will be organized to
receive the excursionists and to care for them during their
stay. The circular prepared for the members gives every
information as to routes, distances, fares, &c., so that they
may make all their arrangements before leaving England.
The telegraph companies, not to lie behindhand, undertake
to transmit messages during the meeting for members
from Montreal to all parts of Canada and the United
States free of charge.

Of course, it is not to be expected that all those ad-
vantages will be given indiscriminately to all who may
apply, and doubtless the great accession of members at
the Southport meeting was partly due to the prospective
visit to Canada. But only those members elected at or
before the Southampton meeting will share in the benefit

of the $14,000 allotted fov reduction of passage money,
and until further notice no new members or associates
can be elected except by special vote of the Council.
This is as it should be, otherwise the meeting would be
largely one of mere " trippers," instead of genuine repre-
sentatives of British science. The Council have taken
every precaution to render the Montreal Meeting one of
real work, and no mere holiday; from respect to itself
as well as to its hosts, the Association is bound to show
itself at its best. At the same time, the Council have
extended all the privileges of associates to the near rela-
tives of members to the number of three for each, so
that members will have no excuse for doing Canada en
garfon. Of course those applying for the privileges
mentioned must produce satisfactory evidence of their
identity, and in return will receive vouchers which will
serve as passports on the other side. Those desirous of
obtaining information as to hotels and other local matters,
must apply to the local secretary, core or Mr. S. C.
Stevenson, 181, St. James's Street, Montreal.

Already somewhere about six hundred applications have
been received, and it is quite probable that at least one
thousand members and associates may be crowding across
next August. Those members who wish to share in the
subsidy of $14,000 must apply before March 25, and no
voucher will be issued after July 20. We may say that
the reduced railway fares mainly extend from August 1
to the end of September. The active and coui'teous
secretary, Professor Bonney, on whom so much depends,
will arrive in Montreal three weeks before the opening
of the meeting, August 27, for the purpose of securing
that everything is in train. It is expected that all the
addresses will be printed here in time for transmission
to Montreal.

So far at least as the officials are concerned, the Canada
Meeting will be a represei.tative one. The President
elect, Lord Rayleigh, one of the most solid exponents
of British science, will certainly prove equal to the occa-
sion. The vice-presidents show a large Transatlantic
contingent ; they are, his Excellency the Governor-Gene-
ral, Sir John A. Macdonald, Sir Lyon Playfair, Sir
Alexander Gait, Sir Charier Tapper, Sir Narcisse Dorion,
Hon. Dr. Chauveau, Principal Dawson, Professor Frank-
land, Dr. L. H. Hingston, and Professor Sterry Hunt.
Sir Joseph Hooker, we may say, has also been nominated
by the Council a vice-president, in place of the late Sir
0. W. Siemens. Perhaps it is scarcely necessary to state
that the general treasurer. Professor A. W. Williamson,
and the general secretaries. Captain Douglas Gal ton and
Mr. A. G. Vernon Harcourt, will be present. There are
five local secretaries and a local treasurer. The presi-
dents of the sections are all men of the highest standing
in their particular departments ; it would be difficult,
indeed, to suggest a better selection. In Section A,
Mathematical and Physical Science, it is a great thing
that Professor Sir William Thomson has been persuaded
to preside. No more representative chemist than Pro-
fessor Roscoe could have been obtained for Section B;
in C, Geology, Mr. W. T. Blanford, the head of the
Indian Geological Survey, is sure to do honour to his
subject ; in Section D, Biology, Professor Moseley, a man
of thoroughly Darwinian type of mind, will preside ;
in F, Economic Science, Sir Richard Temple will be a
host in himself; while in G, Mechanical Science, Sir
F J. Bramwell is sure to be vigorous and original ;
finally, in the new section H, Anthropology, Dr. E. B.
Tylor is the very man that ought to have been selected.
Lord Aberdare, we regret to say, has been compelled to

retire from the presidency of the Geographical Section j
but for a Canadian meeting no more suitable president
could be obtained than the veteran Arctic explorer, Sir
Leopold M'Clintock, who, we trust, will be persuaded to
to take the place of Lord A.berdare. All the vice-presi-
dents and secretaries of sections have been chosen with
equal care ; and thus the Association has taken the very
best means of proving to the Canadians how highly they
appreciate the honour of the invitation, and in what
respect they hold their prospective audiences. Tor the
public lectures, the popular feature of the meetings, it is
hoped to secure the services of Professor W. G. Adams,
the able Professor of Physics in King's College, London,
who it is hoped will be able to go; Dr. Dallinger, the
well-known biologist, and Professor Ball, tht witty and
eloquent Astronomer Royal for Ireland, who will deliver
the popular lecture par excellence.

Thus it will be seen that every possible arrangement
has been made that could be made beforehand to insure
complete success, and there can be little doubt that neither
the Associa,tion nor the Ciinadians will be disappointed.
Section A is following the example set last year in Section
D by Professor Ray Lankester. The Committee, as we
have already announced, are sending out a circular
inviting mathematicians and physicists to co- operate with
them in sustaining discussions and contributing papers ;
one of the special subjects for discussion in this section
on September 1st will be the vexed one of the connection
between sun spots and terrestrial phenomena. In con-
clusion we may say that the American Association will
meet in Philadelphia on September 3rd, and those who
have not had enough of science at Montreal can enjoy
another week of it at the Quaker City. The Philadelphia
Committee have sent a cordial invitation to the members

of the British Association to attend their meetings,
cITeriiig to do the utmost in their power to make the visit
at once pleasant and profitable. This will be a red letter
year in the history of both Associations.

Setter ilo. 1.

Thursday, Avqust 2\st, 1884 ; on hoard " Parisian," —
getting near Newfoundland.

My beloved Mother. — I sent you some lines from
the train on Saturday 16th, and a card to Clai'a after we
arrived on board. This is a capital ship, and lucky for us
it is so, for we have had a regular gale. I little thought
it was possible that I should dislike any sea as I do this
Atlantic ! It has been dreadful weather — grey in the
clouds above and waters beneath, and blowing hard,
without anything to brighten the vast waste of waters,
and I have heartily wished myself away from it. This
truly humiliating state of things will cause you to
triumph over me, no doubt ! I became uncomfortable
and headachy and could do nothing, nor bear to stay in
the saloon, and the drawing room, such as it is, is taken
possession of by the men, who lay themselves down full
length on the seats and leave no room for any ladies, so
I have stayed in my cabin. Dr. Protheroe Smith has been
quite a comfort to me. He is such a good man, and so
pleasant, and has given me things to read, and relates
intex'esting medical and religious experiences. While I

wi'ite, an enormous wave has dashed against my port light
and given me a flash of darkness ! Hedley has been rather
ill, but has never quite lost bis appetite. Gibson and the
two others have held out well. Evelyn has been in her
berth -. 'nee Monday, when it began to blow, but she has
not beexi really ill. John and Dick have braved the storm
on deck, 8,nd say the sight of the waves from the stern
was magnificent, but I don't care for this kind of awful
uncomfortable magnificence, which makes me feel a
miserable shrimp, whose fate it is to be swallowed up by
these raging waves, and who well deserves it. So I oiily
made a feeble attempt to get to the deck on Monday, and
was glad to leave it in half an hour when it rained. I
went down to the drawing room to look at some men
playing chess, but as the others stared at me as if 1 had
no right to be there, and the motion was very bad, I had
soon to leave ignominiously. Mr. Barrett has entertained
me with some ghost stories, well authenticated and printed
for private circulation. I have begun writing this to-day
because there seems some chance of posting it on Saturday
or Sunday, when Sir Leonard and Lady Tilley and two
sous are to be landed at New Brunswick as we pass down
the Straits of Belle Isle, I think. I shall not see your
birth-place as we shall be too far off.

Friday, 22nd. — I went upon deck after breakfast in a
great hurry to see an iceberg. I was greeted with
great kindness by every one after my three days' seclusion,
and thoroughly enjoyed the day and the ocean for the
first time. It was very cold but clear and sparkling, and
there was no motion to speak of ; after the gale, and the
great hills antl valleys of the Atlantic roll in a storm, it
seemed impossible it could be so smooth ; but we are to
have every experience of weather, as a fog came on and
WG steamed very slowly and blew fog signals for an hour !

However, the sun broke forth and lifted the curtain of fog,
and within a quarter of a mile we saw a beautiful
iceberg twelve or fifteen hundred feet deep, they said, and ho
beautiful in its ultra marine colouring. The shape was
like a village church somewhat in ruins. Miss Fox, a
sister of Caroline Fox, is on board and sketched the
icebergs and the waves during the storm very cleverly.
They were also photographed by Mr. Barrett and a
professional. After dinner we were all on deck again and
watched for the lights on the coast of Labrador, which
mark the entrance into the Straits of Belle Isle, and at
last a twinkle caught my eye and we all greeted it with
joy ! Isn't it wonderful that a ship can be steered across
that vast expanse of water straight to this light, in spite
of clouds and storms and without the sight of sun or
moon or stars ? If I was teaching a class I should quote
this as a good illustration of " God's mysterious ways."
We wander on through all the changes and chances of
this mortal life, and we don't know the why, or when, or
where, but at last we see the lights of heaven looming on
our horizon and are at the haven where we would be.
Then we realize that all the time He was guiding us by
ways that we knew not I In the evening we heard an
auction amusingly carried on, though I did not approve
of the gambling connected with it ; and then Mr. Barrett
gave a short account of apparitions, aud there was a
discussion.

I am now writing after breakfast on Saturday and
we expect to reach Quebec on Sunday night. It will
be a dreadful disappointment if we don t see the first
view, which is so fine, by daylight. We entered the Gulf
of St. Lawrence last night (Friday). I give you a list of
our saloon fellow passengers and you will see that I knew
a good many of them before.

List of Saloon Passengers per S.S. " Parisian," (Captain
James Wylib,) ior Quebec, August 16th, 1884.

Mr. H. Alabaster

Mr A. H. Allen

Dr. J. T. Arlidgo

Mr. Atchison

Mr. B. Baker

Major E. Bancs

Miss Barlow

Mr. W. P. Barrett

Dr. Beamiflh

Mr. G. Belyea

Mr. G. W. Bloxam

Miss Bodman

Dr. H. Boms

Mr. Stephen Bourne

Miss E. E. Bourne

Miss E. M. Bourne

Mr. A. H. Bradley

Sir Frederick Bramwell

Mr. R. G. Brook

Mr. Bobert Capper

Mrs. Capper

Mr. G. 0. Chatterton

Mr. W. H. Clemmey

Mr. C. Cooke

Mrs. Cooper

Miss Cooper

Mr. F. B. C. Costelloe

Mr. Crampton

Mrs. Crampton

Mr. Crookshank

Mr. "W. C. Davy

Miss Daw

Mr. W. Boyd Dawkins

Mr. Thomas Denman

Prof. Dewar

Mrs. Dewar

Mr. G. E. Dobson

Mr. R. Edminson

Mr. E. Fam worth

Mr. J. Fewings

Prof. G. Forbes

Mr. R. Formby

Mr. C. Le Neve Poster

Mr. Howard Pox

Mies Fox

Prof. Prcam

Hon. C. "W. Fremantle

Capt. Douglas Galton

Mr. John L. Garsed

Dr. J. H. Gilbert

Mrs. Gilbert

Mr. J. H. Gladstone

Miss Gladstone

Mr. J. H. Glover

Mr. A. G. Greenhill

Mr. Egbert de Hamel

Mr. N. C. Hardoastle

Mr. B. W. Hardoastle

Dr. G. Harley

Mr. N. B. Harley

Miss Harris

Mr. R. T. Herford

Miss A. 0. Herford

Mr. Homiman

Mr. W. Hurst

Mr. John Jones

Rev. Harry Jones

Mr. George Oliver Jones

Miss Fanny Jones

Mr. R. H. Jones

Hon. Mrs, Joyce

Rev. A. Or. Jojoe

Mr. Simeon Kaye

Mr. J. W. Leahy

Mr. B. T. Leech

Mrs. Leech

General Sir J. H. Lefroy,

K.C.M.G.
Lady Lefroy,

and Maid
Mr. James A. Love
Mr. William Lukes
Mr. W. Macandrew
Mr. G. Mackay
Mr. U. Mackay
Mr. Harry Mackeson
Mr. James Mackrell
Mr. Samuel Marsden
Mr. James Mactear
Mr. W. P. Marshall
Dr. W. R. MoNab
Mr. 0. T. Mitchell
Mr. W. J. Muirhead
Mr. Hugo M. Miiller
Mr. E. K. Muspratt
Miss J. Muspratt
Mr. J. S. O'Halloran
Admiral Sir B. Ommanney
Mr. W. H. Perkin
Mr. W. H. Pe-i-in, Jun.
Mr. L. G. Pike
Mr. Benjamin Pilling
Mr. John Pilling
Mrs. Pilling
Mr. John Powell
Mr. W. H. Preece
Mr. P. Price
Mrs. Price
Lord Rayleigh
Lady Rayleigh

Clara Lady Rayleigh,

and Maid
Mr. J. B. Roadman
Mr. A. W. Reinold
Mr, C. Richardson
Mr. R. Richardson
Mrs. Richardson
Mr. A. Rigg
Mr. A. F. Riddell
Mrs. Riddell
Rev. J. Robberds
Prof. W. Chandler Roberts
Mrs. Roberts
Mr. G. H. Robertson
Mrs. Robertson
Canon Rogers
Mr. W. Rogers
Earl of Rosse
Mr. P. L. Solater
Mr. "W. L. Sclater
Mr. Sydney C. Scott
Mr. A. Sedgwick
Prof. H. S. Hele Shaw
Prof. J. P. Sheldon
Mr. George Smith
Dr. P. Smith
Dr. H. Smith
Prof. W. J. Sollas
Mr. E. Sollas
Mr. Sowden
Mr. A. Sowden
Dr. W. D. Spanton
Mr. Russell Stephenson
Mr. T. H. Stockwell
Hon. R. Strutt
Hon. H. V. Strutt
Mr. A. Summers
Mr. R. W. Cooke-Taylor
Mrs. Cooke-Taylor
Mr. T. H. Thomas

Dr. Alex. S. Thomson

Mr. William Thomson

Mr. W. J. Thomson

Dr. H. G. Thompson

Sir Leonard Tilley, K.C.M.G.,

C.B.
Lady Tilley
Master Herbert Tilley
Master Leonard Tilley
Mr. W. Topley
Mr. W, Tribe
Mr. G. S. Turner
Capt. H. S. Walker
Mrs. Walker
Mr. Ward
Miss Ward
Mr. C. A. Wella

Rev. B. Wells

Mr. Westgarth

Mrs. Westgarth

Miss Westgarth

Mr. W. Whitaker

Miss E. H. Williamson

Mr. E. S. Williams

Miss Wilson

Rev. H. H. Winwood

Mr. Alfred Wood

Mrs. Wood

Mr. H. T. Wood

Mr. A. W. Worthington

Miss Worthington

Mr. T. Wrightson

Mr. F. York

Mrs. York

This afternoon was very dull and grey. I played
a game of four chess, and there was a concert in
the evening, — every two or three minutes broken in
upon by the roar of a wild beast called the fog horn.
It was very funny to hear the apropos way it
came in when Canon Rogers was reciting Hiawatha.

" Minnihaha said " then a roar ! One of the party read

a paper, and a really witty burlesque on this supposed wild
beast and its anatomy. John is so well and, I think, very
popular : Evelyn is a much better sailor than one
anticipated. Captain Douglas Galton told me John's
address was admirable, but I would not read it, as I want
to judge of it as others will, when it is delivered. I have
had no whist ! think of that — at first people were too ill,
and then so much on deck, and they play in the smoking
room, I hear, and perhaps gamble for higher stakes than I
like ! — which perhaps you will say is not surprising as I
never play for anything.

Sunday, A ugust 24,th. — We have had a bright but cold
day and brisk wind — in fact I have felt colder than when
the icebergs were round us ! We had service in the
morning — Mr. Joyce read prayers and Canon Rogers
preached ; and at three we had the excitement of seeing
Sir Leonard and Lady Tilley, and two sons, with innumer-
able packages, taken off in a tug to New Brunswick —
Rimouski was the name of the town, and the still greater
excitement followed of receiving from it the Secretary of the
Lodging Committee at Montreal, who brought quantities of
letters, papers, &c. I had a letter from Mr. Angus, asking
me and a son to stay with them during our visit to Monti'eal,
and it is close to where Dick is invited (Mr. and Mrs.

McClennan's) , and near John and E . I also heard from

Mr. Dobell, very kindly offering his house and carriage
for my use while at Quebec ; he and his family are away
camping in the woods. You never saw a scene of greater
excitement than the appearance of t' e saloon when the
President opened the parcel containing letters, newspapers,
and telegrams, after a week's total abstinence from all
news ; everyone seized upon their respective letters, &c.,
with eagerness ; the only person who did not look happy
was John, for he found the arrangements made would be
too much for him, and he and Captain Galton set them-
selves to try and alter them, in which I hope they will
succeed. The Secretary sat opposite me at dinner, and
told me how anxious they all were to make everything
comfortable for us. It is doubtful whether we stay at
Quebec to-morrow night, or go on to Montreal at once,
as there is to be an excursion on Triday next to
Quebec, and grand reception, and picnic or garden party
on the following day. If you find a difficulty in reading
the indelible pencil, tell me ; it is more convenient to use
travelling. We had an interesting conference on prayer

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this afternoon (Sunday), and I have just returned from
another smaller one. A scientific man asked questions as
to whether we could prove answers to prayer woiild be
given ior physical blessings, or what we consider such ; or
whether prayer was only a sentiment (as Tyndal thinks) ?
Professor Barrett and a dear old clergyman, Canon
Rogers (who, in my ignorance, I had thought, at first,
was a " dry stick ") argued the matter with him, and also
Dr. P. Smith and his son, and Miss Pox and I said a few
words. Now, about nine o'clock, they are all singing
hymns, very much out of tune. I must finish this up
now for it must be posted to-morrow, or may miss the
mail on Tuesday. I have thoroughly enjoyed the last three
days, and am almost sorry the voyage is over, and so, I
think, are many of my fellow passengers. Some of them
are very good and nice. Miss Pox is delightful — upwards
of eighty, and yet so full of interest in everything good and
beautiful ; she is like a piece cut out of the old past, and
a very wonderful old fossil, full of energy and cleverness.
Hedley desires his love, and is very well and hapjjy. We
go to 240, Drummond Street, Montreal, on Monday or

Tuesday, Dick in same street, and John and E near.

Gibson has never been ill at all ! Good-bye, now, and God
bless you all, darling Mother, and everyone dear to me at
home. Two or three times during the gale, Hedley and I
said to each other, " How nice it would be to be sitting

with you at No. 90, G ." — but now we have not

that desire ! Prom your loving child, — 0. R.

Tuesday, August 26th, Beavoir, Quebec,

My first letter was brought up to 24th. I forgot to
tell you then of an interesting discussion with a clever and

honest infidel, Mr. X . Through (who had told me

about him), T had lent him " Natural Law," and (seeing him
standing about looking, I thought, rather sad as we were
all singing " Rock of Ages, cleft for me ") I asked him his
opinion of the book, and he said " on Mr. D.'s assumption
of the existence of a Personal God, it is very clever, and
with your views I would certainly circulate it." Of
course, I could not argue with a man well armed at all
points for attack (as these infidels generally are), though
they are weak enough at defence, their explanations of
life's mysteries being as unsatisfactory and vague as that
of any ignorant Bible woman ; and so when others joined
us I gave way, and he said as a crusher — " I see you are a
very sincere and conscientious lady, but you are very
fanatical." I replied, as my parting shot, "Well, of
course, I cannot do justice to my cause, but at any rate
you have nothing to offer me ; convince me and others, if
you can, that we are wrong (and thank God we have a
noble army on our side), what have you to give us in
the place of our beliefs? Nothing! a me negation."
He answered — " What have you to give me . ' " Oh," I
replied, "a mere nothing, only peace and power for
holiness now and a glorious hope for the future, and so
(shaking hands) good bye." I could scarcely speak to
him for crying, for it was so painful to hear his words
.ibout our Blessed Saviour. After our discussion on
prayer in the back cabin, a young man who was there and
who was sitting near me while I was writing to you,
iie^'iui to talk it over. " Well," T said, "the best answer

to those objections about prayer that I know, ia to try It,
and then I am sure no arguments will then shake your
confidence that there ' - a God who heareth and answereth
prayer." It is like our Lord's cure of the blind man,
" JTow did He do it? " they ask, and ask in vain for any
explanation which could be understood, but the man says
■' I don't know, but whereas I was blind, now I see," and
the Pharisees beat themselves to pieces against that
rock. You may imagfine I went to my berth heartily
tired after the excitement of this long day.

Monday, 26th. — I got up at six and rushed on deck,
and with a lovely clear sky and shining sun and a brisk
breeze, I found we were steaming along the river
St. Lawrence. We devoured with our eyes the beautiful
views on each side, mountains of blue and violet, wooded
to their summits, and Canadian villages nestling n'- t'leir
feet on the banks of the river, with glittering spires of
hlanche fer every seven miles, like tall milestones, and
then we reached the entrance tc Quebec, which is indeed
magnificent! the splendid water-way, with the fine
position of Quebec, makes it a grand sight, and I was not
disappointed ; and the clear and brilliant morning sun-
shine showed us all to perfection. Then came 8uch a scene
of hurry and confusion, — but we were favored : Captain
R. Stephenson, the Governor-General's A.D.C., who had
been our fellow passenger, received instructions from him,
and we were conveyed in a police steamboat to the other
side — to the Citadel ; there was also a letter from Lord

Lansdowne to John, asking him and E and any of

his party to breakfabt, brought by Captain Streatfield,
another A.D.C. Our maids and luggage were left in
charge of the police at their wharf station. On reaching
the wharf a carriage conveyed us to the Citadel, — such a
drive, up the side of a house ! over a great many bonlderx.

B 2

A curious old town is Quebec — thoroughly like a French
town, with French spoken everywhere, and French dirt
and air of poverty and untidiness, as in the remoter and
older towns of France.

Lord and Lady Lansdowne received us most kindly, and
besides there was Lady Florence Anson (her neice, who is
engaged to Captain Streatfield), Lady Melgund, whose
husband is away in Ottawa looking after canoe men for
Egypt, and a young Mr. Anson, A.D.C. After seeing the
view from the balcony — a splendid panorama of Quebec
and the liver St. Lawrence, witl its tributary St. Charles,
and the surrounding country backed by blue mountains,
we went in to our second breakfast, and much we enjoyed
our tea. Lord Lansdowne sat next me and was very

pleasant. Afterwards he asked John and E and me

and the boys to dine, apologising for not asking us all to
sleep there, on the grounds of not having room, which is
true enough, for the house is not large. I thought it best to
decline for myself and two sons, as I was going with them
for the night to this place (Mr. Dobell's), four miles away.
Then came a Secretary of the Local Comroiitec to discuss
arrangements with John, and alter the programme some-
what for next Friday and Saturday, when we are expected
to revisit Quebec.

John is much afraid that the long list of engagements
will bring on his rhuematism and knock him up for the real
business in Montreal, After this we had the carriage and

drove in state to the hotel where John and E were to

sleep, arranged about our berths on the steamer for
Montreal, saw numbers of our fellow-passengers who had
not gone to Montreal, and drove to the wharf and only
brought a little 1 ggage to come here with. They told
me I should not want umbrellas (" Our climate here is
very different from yours," said they), nor wraps, but I

persisted in bringing a few, fortunately, for it has been
pouring all night and up to this time (twelve o'clock
Wednesday), and it was so cold besides. While at the
hotel (I forgot to mention that) a card was handed to me
with Mr. Price's name on it. I could not think who he

was, but he soon came and mentioned Capt. F (Julia

Spicer'd son-in-law), and then I remembered he had
promised +o mention us to the Prices. He offered to
drive one of the ladies in his buggy to his house near the

7jIo/.tmerenci Falls, where we were all to lunch, and E

went in it, and the rest of us drove in another carriage
to his place, about five miles off. The drive was delightful
aud his cottage a picture — a little, fat, fair motherly woman
for a wife, with two little chicks, and a lady friend. Thoy
took us down some steps to the Falls, the river Mont-
merenci falling 500 feet, and it was very fine, the view
being improved by the figures of our fellow-passengers on
the opposite side making struggling efforts to gain good
positions, which we achieved in all ease and comfort.
Then v 3 ivturned to an excellent luncheon, very pleasantly
divei. iM^l to us by Indian corn, which we learned to
eft* 'I'l ungraceful but excellent fashion on the cob,
b-i. • r ;^- J \it and cream. This was our third substantial
meai • ' .i »sday. Several visitors called, and among
them oui' If '')w- passengers, Mr. Stephen Bourne and his
daughters and two friends, who are also staying here, a
gentleman with three other ladies (two of whom had been
on the " Parisian ) who said he had been staying lately
with one of them in Cheshire, so I concluded he was an
English-Canadian and said heartily : " That's right, keep
np with the old country ! You come to see us and we
< • ne to see you." And ho responded graciously, but I
■1 rd after that he was a French-Canadian and R. C, and
they aie not fond of England, but cling vory much to

French ways and customs and are entirely in the hands of
their priests. They are a quiet, moral people, marry very
young and have very large families. It is quite common
to have ten children, and they live at what we should call
a starvation rate ; \ j ■^^p'- will not go to service, con-
tribute hardly anythiu^ t revenue, and so the English,
who are the only active id money-making section of
the population, are heavily taxed; of course I speak
of the poor and working classes. The province of
Quebec is, therefore, not a favourite one with enterprising
spirits from our shores or from other parts of Canada.
After these visitors were gone, Mi*. Price drove me and

E , and the rest walked, to the "Natural Steps." It was

a beautiful spot, the clear torrent of the river Montmerenci
falling in cascades over a curious formation of layers of
stone and steps on either side, with the bright green arbor
vitce, which they call cedar, growing above and in every
niche it can find a bit of soil ; wild raspbenies and straw-
berries too, which, alas, were over. We met several of our
fellow-passengers, and we greet one another like long-lost
friends. On our return we found Mrs. Price had cuddled
her ailing boy to sleep and could give us some attention.
We had delicious tea and cake {owe fourth meal!).
Mr. Price comes from Eoss, in Herefordshire, and has
been twelve years away from it. He is very nice and
intelligent. Her brother owns the Falls and lives in a
pretty cottage near. Edison, the electric light inventor,
has bought the power of these falls for electric purposes.
John was thinking all the time how useful they might be

made. We returned to the hotel in time for John and E

to dress for the Governor-General's dinner party. We took a
little baggage and Gibson and came here — a dark drive, and
we were shaken to bits in what is justly called a rockaway
carriage. We were met at the door by Mr. Dobell, much

to ouv surprise, for he and his family had returned
unexpectedly from camping out, as it proved a failure,
and rushed home to receive us. She is handsome, and
quite English in tone and manner, daughter of the Minister
of the Interior, Sir David Macpherson. Mr. Dobell is
very bright and pleasant-looking, the house pretty atid
comfortable, with large conservatory. We had a tremen-
dous supper (our fifth meal !) and so I could hardly do
justice to it. I went to bed very tired after this hard
day's work, and awoke this morning to find it pouring, so
I have been taking advantage of the quiet to write to you.
Dick and Mr. Dobell went to Quebec, and we follow at
three. They hope to have some organ-playing in the
Cathedral. Mr. S. Bourne and his young ladies are also
gone, and we are to leave at three and start at five in the
river steamboat for Montreal. Tell Edward and Lisa,
&c., &c., about us. We all thoroughly enjoyed everything
yesterday except that we wanted warmer clothes. They
had tremendous heat here before we arrived, and so every
one was advising us to wear light clothing! — and the
weather changed !

fetter iTo. 3.

August 29th, 240, Drwmmond Street, Montreal.

We left the hospitable Dobells on Tuesday, 26th, took our
luggage from the police station, receiving many bows and
much politeness from the several Canadians in charge and,
with about one thousand others, besides soldiers, went on
board a very large steamer — a new experience, for these river

steamers are quite different from anything we see on this
side, even I think, on the Rhine, — the Lansdownes were
in it and we saw something of them. An uncomfortable
night, and were glad to reach this, Wednesday morn-
ing, at about eight o'clock. Such a mass of luggage and
people, but as Mr. Angus kindly sent a carriage and man
to meet us, I did very well and arrived safely with all
mine.

I drove with Hedley and Miss Angus in the afternoon
(there are four grown-up young ladies) and finally got
out at the Queen's HaU, where the Mayor read an address
in French, and after Sir William Thomson had spoken,
John said a few words. There was a great crowd here,
and we sang " God Save the Queen " with enthusiasm. We
dined at half -past six and afterwards the two Misses Angus
and Hedley and I drove to the Hall.

Lord and Lady Lansdowne sat on the platform, and
after a nice speech from him, Sir William Thomson
introduced John as the new President with many compli-
ments. Then, dear John, looking so nice, with a clear
voice, read his address, and I am told it was heard even in
the gallery at the end. I liked it extremely, and people
seem to think it was very good. Our party, Evelyn, Dick,
&c., sat in the front row, and when John read one or two
passages which he thought would particularly " fetch "
me, he looked with a little twinkle in my direction and of
course I twinkled in return.

[The following account is reprinted from the " Montreal
Gazette," August 28th, 1884.]

Everything combined to favour the opening day of the British
Association meeting yesterday. Bright skies overhead, and
weather not too warm, and tempered by a cooling breeze, made
what outdoor work had to be done pleasant and prevented indoor
proceedings from being oppressive. Adding to these conditions

the general entlmsiasra which prevailed, the presence of so many
notable personages, distingnished in the worlds of science, of poll-
tics, of letters and of mercantile pursuits, and the attendance of so
large a number of the fair sex, who evinced the greatest interest
in the proceedings, and it will be seen that the opening could
not have taken place under more pleasing auspices. Whilst the
city in general showed an extra amount of life and bustle, the
interest naturally centered in the grounds of McOill University,
which presented a bright and lively scene. In the reception
room in the William Molson Hall there was a constant
succession of visitors, and the various offices wore a busy air-
In the grounds a new and picturesque effect was made by a
couple of marquees wherein luncheon was served, and the
grounds themselves, the grassy lawns and wooded walks, were
the constant resort of ladies and gentlemen. The morning was
spent by the visitors either in visits to the offices and reception
rooms, the arrangement of papers, or in " doing " the city.
At one o'clock the first work of the meeting commenced in the
meeting of the general committee. Subsequently, at half past
four, the visitors were formally welcomed by the mayor and
corporation in the Queen's Hall, which was the scene of a
brilliant gathering, and in the evening the first general meeting
of the Association took place in the same hall, when the
representative of the retiring president resigned the presidential
office, which was assumed by the new president. Lord Hayleigh.
Additional interest and distinction was given to the proceedings
yesterday by the presence of His Excellency the Governor-
General and the Marchioness of Lansdowne, and the Bight
Hon, Sir John A. Macdonald, Premier of the Dominion. Full
reports of all the meetings and speeches together with other
particulars of interest will be found subjoined.

MEETING OF THE GENERAL COMMITTEE.

A meeting of the general committee of the Association was
held in the James Ferrier Hall, Wesleyan College, at one
o'clock yesterday afternoon. Sir William Thomson presiding.

The minutes of the meeting at Southport were read by the
secretary, Rev. Prof. Bonney, and confirmed.

THE REPORT OF THE COUNCIL.

Capt. Douglas Galton, General Secretary, then read the annual
report of the council, which stated that since the meeting at

Sonthport, Dr. F. Lindemann and Dr. Ernst Schroeder had been
elected correaponding members of the Association, and proceeded
88 follows : — " The present meeting of the British Association,
the fifty-fourth in number, is likely to be long memorable in its
annals, as the first held beyond the limits of the United Kingdom.
It marks a new point of departure, and one probably never
contemplated by the founders of the Association, although not
forbidden by the laws which they drew up The experiment
was doubtless a hazardous one, but it seems likely to be justified
by success, and it may be hoped that the vigour and vitality
gained by new experience may ultimately compensate for the
absence from this meeting of not a few familiar faces among the
older members ; there will, however, be as large a gathering of
members of more than one year's standing as is usual at a
successful meeting in Great Britain, and the efforts which have
been made by our hosts to facilitate the coming of members and
render their stay in Canada both pleasant and instructive, call
for the warmest acknowledgment. The inducements offered to
undertake the journey were indeed so great that the council
felt that it would be necessary to place some restriction upon
the election of new members, which for many years past, though
not unchecked in theory, has been almost a matter of course in
practice. Obviously these offers of the Canadian hosts of the
British Association were made to its members, not to those on
whom they might operate as an inducement to be enrolled
among its members. The council, therefore, before the close of
the Southport meeting, published the following resolution : —
" That after the termination of the present month (September,
1883), until further notice, new members be only elected by
special resolution of the council." Applications for admission
under these terms were very numerous, and were carefully sifted
by the council. Still, although the council as time progressed
and the number augmented, increased the stringency of their
requirements, it became evident that the newly elected members
would soon assume an unduly large proportion to those of older
standing, so that on May Gth, after electing 130 members under
this rule, it was resolved to make no more elections until the
commencement of the Montreal meeting, when it would be safe
to revert to the usual practice. The details of the arrangements
made for the journey have already been communicated to the
members, so that it is needless to make any further special

reference to them, but the council have to acknotvledge the
great liberality of the associated cable companies in granting,
under certain restrictions, free ocean telegraphy to the members
of the Association during the meeting. The death of Sir William
Siemens has deprived the Association of one of its most earnest
supporters and friends. It was during his presidency at South-
ampton that the invitation to Montreal was accepted, and he was
appointed at Southport a vice-president for this meeting. The
council nominated Sir J. D. Hooker a vice-president, but he was
unfortunately obliged, for domestic reasons, to resign the
nomination in the early part of the summer. It has been the
custom at meetings of the Association to invite the attendance of
distinguished men of science from all parts of the world, but
the council considered that on the present occasion it would be
■well to offer a special welcome to the American Association (of
which also several eminent Canadian men of science are
members) ; they have accordingly issued an invitation to the
standing ci umittee and fellows of that Association to attend the
meeting at Montreal on the footing of honorary members."

The Report then referred to the fact that the general treasurer
had been prevented from being present at the meeting, and that
as the usual assistant to the general treasurer could not also be
present, they had nominated Admiral Sir PJrasmus Ommanney,
C.B., F.R.fj., as deputy treasurer, and Mr. Harry Brown,
assistant secretary of University College, London, as financial
oflScer. The Report proceeded to state that the council had,
aftar consideration, decided to form a separate section of an-
thropology, and reported with reference to the resolution
referred to them b) the general committee, " That application
be made to the Admiralty to institute a Physical and Biological
Survey of Milford Haven, and the adjacent coast of Pembroke-
shire, on the plan followed by the American Fisheri. .
Commission." They had done so, and had been inforniea
by the Lords of H. M. Treasury, 'iyhat they regretted t" be
unable to institute such a survey, as the Admiralty had no
vCEsels available for this service. With regard to the Report
of the Committee of Section A respecting the suppression of
four of the seven principal observatories of the Meteorological
Council, and to forward a copy of the same to the Meteorological
Council, thoy reported that arrangements had beeu made,
whereby three out of the four obsorratorios relinqnisbed by the

Meteorological Conncil wonld be continaed, though on a somewhat
different footing. The conncil also reported that they had sent
a comniunication to the Executive Committee of the International
Fisheries Exhibition, urging upon that body the appropriation
of a sufficient sum out of the surplus funds remaining in their
hands at the close of the Exhibition, to found a laboratory on
the British Coast for the study of marine zoology ; but there
did not seem any prospect of such an appropriation of the
surplus funds. The Report then referred to the Report of the
Committee on local scientific societies, and detailed the alter-
ations which its adoption would make necessary in the rules,
stating that it was proposed to reserve the consideration of this
question by the general Committee ior the meeting to be held in
London in November. The Report concluded as follows : " The
vacancies in the council to be declared at the General Committee
Meeting in November will be Lord Rayleigh, who has assumed
the presidency, together with the following who retire in the
ordinary course : Mr. G. Darwin, Mr. Hastings, Ur. Huggins
and Dr. Burden Sanderson, and the council will recommend
for re-election on that occasion the other ordinary members of
council, with the addition of the gentlemen whoso names are
distinguished by an asterisk in the following list: — *Abney,
Capt. R.E., Adams, Professor W. G., *Ball, Professor R. S.,
Bateman, J. F. La Trobe, Esq., Bramwell, Sir F., Dawkins,
Professor W. Boyd, De La Rue, Dr. Warren, Dewar, Professor
J., Evans, Captain Sir F., Flower, Professor W. H., Gladstone,
Dr. J. H., Glaisher, J. W. L., Fsq., Godwin-Austen, Lieut-Col.
H. H., Hawkshaw, J. Clarke, Esq., Henrici. Professor O., Hughes,
Professor T. McK., Jeffreys, Dr. J. Gwyn *Moseley, Professor
H. N,, *Ommaney, Adniral Sir E., Peiigel'y, W., Esq., Perkin,
W. H., Esq., Prestwich, Professor, Sclater- Booth, The Right
Hon. George, Sorby, Dr. II. C, *Temple, Sir R. In accordance
with the decision arrived at by them at Southport, the Geneml
Committee will meet on Tuesday, 11th November, at Thi'co
o'clock in the afternoon in the Theatre of the Royal Institution,
Albemarle Street, London, W., for the transaction of the
following business, viz. : — To elect the president, oHicers and
conncil for 1884-85; to fix the date of meeting for 1885; to
appoint the place of meeting for 1886 ; and to consider the
alteration of rules necessary to give effect to the recommendation
of the Committee on local scientific socii'tii's.

On motion of the Chairman the Report was adopted.

AN ADDRESS FROM THE ROTAL 80CIETT.

The President of the Royal Society, Dr. T. Sterry-Hunt, then
read the following address : —

To the Pretident and Council of the British Aasociation for the
Advancement of Science.

Tho Eoyal Society of Canada greets with cordial welcome the
memberg of your Association on the occasion of its first visit to the
American continent, and rejoices to find among those who have accepted
the invitation of the citizens of Montreal so many names, renowned as
leaders of scientific research.

The Eoyal Society of Canada, which is a body recently organized
and in the third year of its existence, includes not only students of natural
history and natural philosophy, who make up together one-half of its
eighty members, but others devoted to the history and the literature of
the two great European races, who are to-day engaged in the task of
building up in North America a new nation under the shelter of the
British flag.

Recognizing the fact that material progress can only be made in
conjunction with advancement in literature and in science, we hail your
visit as an event destined to give a new impulse to the labours of our
own students, believing at the same time that the great problems of
material nature, not less than the social and political aspects of this vast
realm, will afford you subjects for profitable study, and trusting that
when your short visit is over, you will return to your native land with
kindly memories of Canada and a confidence that its growth in all that
makes a people good and great is secured.

T. Stebbt Hunt, President,

John Qko. Boubniot, Hon. Secretary.

Montreal, August 27, 1884.

Dr. Hunt's predecessor in office, the Hon. Dr. Chauveau,
followed and after a few introductory remarks read the address
in French.

Sir William Thomson, in replying, said : — I am sure all the
members of the general committee are greatly gratified with the
warm welcome accorded to us in the addresses just delivered on
behalf of the two great divisions of our countrymen in this
province, the English and French races. It is very gratifying to
see this cordial unanimity existing between them, and in the
name of the general committee I beg to express our warmest
thanks for these addresses of welcome. (Applause.)

Dr. T. StekryHunt said he would now, with their permission,
read an address which had been transmitted by the committee

of reception at the neighbouring town of Ghambly, where a
memorial tablet was to be placed at the old fort at that place on
Saturday next. The address was as follows : —

Mr. Steebt Hunt will please do the reception committee at Chambly
the honour to represent them before the members of the British Associa-
tion for the advancement of science, and to inform them that at Chambly,
on the 30th instant, at half -past three o'clock, there will be the ceremony
of placing a tablet in the old Fort Chartrain, built by France in 1711
against the English, now its allies.

The presence of members of the British Association at this ceremony
will be regarded as an honour by the Canadian people of the shores of
the Richelieu. It will be for them an encouragement, and for otir young
country a proof of the interest felt in Europe for all that belongs to
history, whether shown in the preservation of old monuments, or iu the
placing therein of memorial tablets.

Chambly was long a military post occupied at times by men famous
aUke in French and English annals. It is also the birthplace of Albani,
the famous Canadian singer, and here are buried the remains of de
Salaberry, the Canadian Leonidas, in whose honour a statue has lately
been erected. Mr. Sterry Hunt will please present the respects of the
Chambly committee to the members of the British Association while
accepting them for himself, and will believe me his most obedient
servant,

J. O. Dion, Secretary-General of the Committee.
Chambly, August 25, 1884.

On Saturday next, Dr. Hunt explained there would be an
excursion at 2 p.m. to Chambly from the city. He knew that
other excursions had been arranged for to Quebec and elsewhere,
and he had no wish to interfere with these arrangements, but
those who chose to avail themselves of his cordial invitation
would find a visit to Chambly exceedingly interesting.

Sir Wm. Thompson returned cordial thanks to Mr. Dion for
his kind invitation, and felt sure many members of the associa-
tion would avail themselves of it.

THE CIVIC RECEPTION.

Fully an hour before the time for presenting the civic address
crowds of people began to ascend the stairs leading to the
Queen's Hall, and by half-past four o'clock the hall was filled to
overflowing, and when the mayor and aldermen, with the mem-
bera of the British Association put in an appearance, they were
heartily received by the audience. His Worship, Mayor Beaudry
(who wore his chain of office) presided, and was supported on

tho right by Sir William Thomson (representing the retiring
president, Prof. Cayley), and the Right Hon. Lord BAyleigh
(president-elect), and on his left by the Premier of the Dominion,
the Bight Honourable Sir John A. Macdonald. Amongst others
present were Sir Lyon Playfair, Capt. Douglas Galton, Prof.
Henry E. Roscoe, Sir James Douglass, Prof. Chandler Roberts,
Mr. W. Terlawney Saunders, Prof. Glaisher, Hon. C. W, Free-
mantle, Capt. Bedford Pim, Rev. Prof. Bonney, Sir Richard
Temple, Dr. Alexander, Principal Dawson, C.M.G., Prof.
Cheriman, Mr. M. H. Gault, M.P., Hob. J. F C. Wurtele,
Dr. Persiford Frazer, U. S. Consul-General Steams, Andrew
Robertson, and the following members of the city corporation :
Aldermen Grenier, Fairbairn, Laurent, Stevenson, Rainville,
Donovan, Beauchamp, Archibald, Robert, Prefontaine, Holland,
Tansey, Beauscleil, Mount, Rolland, Hood, J. C. Wilson, Thos.
Wilson, Mooney, Jeannotte, Farrell and Genereux ; Mr. Charles
Glackmeyer, city clerk ; Mr. Perceval W. St. George, city
surveyor ; Mr. J. F. D. Black, city treasurer ; and Mr. H.
Paradis, chief of police. Mr. W. R Spence, organist of the
Church of St. John the Evangelist, presided at the organ.

His Worship the Mayor opened the proceedings by reading
the following ; —

ADDRESS.

To the President and Member! of the British Association for the Advance-
ment of Science :

Gbntlembn, — It is with no common pleasure that we, the mayor and
aldermen of Montreal welcome to this city and to Canada, so distinguish-
ed a body as the British Association for the Advancement of Science.
Already indeed, not only here, but through the length and breadth of
the land, that welcome has been pronounced with a heartiness to which
we are proud to add the confirmation of formal expression.

During the last two years, and especially since the acceptance of our
invitation made it a certainty, your coming amongst us has been looked
forward to as an event of deep and manifold importance to the Dominion.

Aware of the devotion with which the Association had for more than
half a century, applied itself to the object indicated in its name, and
knowing that its present membership comprised the most eminent of
those noble students and investigators who have made the search after
truth the aim of their lives, we could not fail to perceive that Canada
would gain by the presence of observers and thinkers so exact and
so unprejudiced. Nor were we without the hope that in the vast and
varied expanse of territory which constitutes the Dominion, our learned
visitors would meet with features of interest that should be some
compensation for so long and wearisome a journey.

Here in that great stretch of diversified region between the Athmtic
and the Pacific, the student of almost every branch of science must find
Bomt*'''nj[ worth learning ; whilst for certain sections of the Asso ",tion
there are few portions of the world in which 'he explorer is more likely
to be gratified and rewarded.

Throughout this broad domain of ours, rock and herb, forest and
prairie, lake and river, air and soil, with whatever life or whatever relic
of life in past ages, they may severally contain, — afford to the diligent
seeker of knowledge various and ample scope for research. Nor to the
student of man aa a social and political being, is there less of opportunity
for acquiring fresh facts and themes for reflection in a young common-
wealth like this.

We flatter ourselves that here you will find a people not unworthy of
the great races from which it has sprung, and that, on your return to
the mother-land, you will be able to speak with satisfaction, from your
own expeiience, of our federal system, our resources, our agriculture,
our manufactures, our commerce, our institutions of learning, our
progress and our destinies.

You have come and we place our land, ourselves, and all we are and
have at your disposal. We bid you a hearty welcome, and in so
honouring ourselves, we only ask you to consider yourselves at home,
remembering that you are still on British soil.

In conclusion, Mr. President and Gentlemen, we sincerely hope that
your stay in this portion of Her Majesty's Empire may be as happy and
as fruitful to the Association as it is grateful for so many reasons to the
people of Montreal and of the Dominion.

J. L. Beaudet,

Mayor.
Chas. Glackmetgb,
City Clerk.

Sir Wm. Thomson acknowledged in cordial terms the hearty
welcome expressed in this address. The Association, he
continued, when it commenced the experiment of being a
peripatetic Association for the advancement of science, made an
experiment which many considered of a doubtful character. It
was urged that although zeal for a new thing might carry the
Association on for a few years successfully, the success would
ce:\se with the novelty. This prophecy had not been fulfilled.
On the contrary, the experiment had been crowned with brilliant
success. He did not think the founders of the Association, fiftj-
two years ago, when they drew up the wiP3 plan and regulations
of the society which have since continued in force almost without
change, imagined, for a moment, the possibility of a meeting
being held on this side of the Atlantic. (Applause.) Their
meeting here was strictly within the letter of the law and wholly

in accordance with the spirit by which tlie Britinh Association
wai directed, and that was to carry throuf^li the llriliMli Empire
any advancement in Bcienco that could bo promoted by the
existence of the Aasociation. At the outset, when the Ixidy was
forini'd, some fifty years ago, the mathematical section, of which
he was now president, held that it was impossible for a steam-
boat to cross the Atlantic. As president of that section, he
ought to be ashamed that it had adopted such a conclusion. The
business of the Association was to advance science and never to
stand still. Many misgivings had been felt as to the success of
the experiment of visiting this side of the water, but none wore
felt as to the kindness with which they would be r'-'civod. Nn-
body doubted that the warmest welcome would be given by
their countrymen on this side, and none know bett«r how to
give u, warm welcome. With respect to his own feelings,
hi. ' ''. most deeply the privilege and honour of filling the
position he held, but it was accompanied with ono regret and
that was the absence of Professor Cayley, who would have been
in his place had not circumstances compelled him to remain on
the other side. He concluded by again expressing his warm
thanks and those of the Association for the magnificent welcome
given them.

Lord Rayleioh, a.s president-elect, joined in the expression of
thanks for the hearty welcome. We all, he said, felt great in-
terest in visiting, many of us for the first time, this extensive
and diversified land, which has become the homo of so many of
our fellow countrymen. Before the day is out 1 am afraid the
tones of my voice will have become only too familiar to you,
and I will therefore say nothing moio than that we most
cordially reciprocate the sentiments expressed in the address
presented to us.

Sir John A. Macuonald was then requested to address the
meeting. As he came forward, looking as vigorous and cheery
as if time had consented to roll backwards in his favour, the
enthusiasm and delight of the audience found vent in a perfect
ovation of applause. On all sides among our visitors, as well aa
our own citizens, were heard expressions of genial interest on
the one hand and of delight on the other. Sir John gained the
heart of the audience at once, and, after the applause had
subsided, said : — I really do not know in what capacity I am
cvUed upon to address this audience, whether it is a.s a .scientist

or aa a Canadian or as a member of 'lie government. I cannot
well say — I will say, however — I come here as a scientist. I
am not yet settled in my own mind to whicu strtion I will attach
myself. I think I will wait awhile, use my Scotch discretion,
hear all that has to be said on all those questions before iinally
decid. ig. (Laughter.) We all cordially join in the sentiments
expressed in the address from the corporation. It was a great
pleasure to us all in Canada to know there was a possibility of
the British Association extending their visits to Canada. I first
thought, when the proposition was made, it was asking too
much, but the cordial response made and the large attendance,
showed these fears were not well fonnded. I am glad the wea-
ther is fine, the country is prosperoui-, he fieldo .i:"«i groaning with
products, and altogether we put on our best clothes to do honour
to those gentlemen who have honoured Canada (applause and
laughter), and I really hope they will not be disappointed. ^
can assure them, if tliey wanted the assurance, the people of
Canada are proud and gi-ateful for their visit. If theio are any
shortcomings amopg us it is because we are a young country ;
but we will do our best any way and you must iake the will for
the deed. (Applause.) I am sure I express tne sentiments of
all in giving the Association a most hearty greeting to the
Dominion of Canada. (Loud applause.) The national anthem
was then sung by the entire audience, and on three cheers being
given for the Queen, the meeting dispersed.

THE GENERAL MEETING.

The first general meeting of the Association was held in tV.e
Queen's Hall at eight o'clock last evening, the hall being crowded
to its utmost capacity, many having to stand, while others were
unable to obtain admission. Sir William Thomson occupied the
chair, and beside him on the platform were His Kxcellency the
Governor General and Lady Lansdowne and suite, the Right
Hon. yir John Macdonald, and the president-elect, the Right
Hon. Lord Rayleigh.

His ExcEM.KNCT THE Qovernor-Geneual was firpt introduci'd,
and delivered the following address of welcome : —

Lord Rayleigh, ladies and gentlemen, — I am given to unc'er-
stand that it would be in accordance with the rules under which
the business of the Britisli Association is ciirried or, that the
proceedings of to-dny should commence with the vacation ot the

president's chair and by the inetallation of the president-elect in
the place which he will so honourably fill. The occasion, how-
ever, which has brought us together )3 so remarkable, and will
be 80 memorable, not only m the annals of the Association, but
ill the history of the Dominion, that I believe you will pardon
the slight irregularity of which, as a member of the Association,
I am guilty, in rising to address a few words to this distinguished
audience. The occasion, Lord Rayleigh, is the first upon which
the British Association has held a meeting beyond the narrow
limits of the United Kingdom. Such a departure from the
usage which you have hitherto observed, though an inauguration,
is certainly not inconsistent with the objects of the Association
or with the desig^ns of i's founders; its earliest records contain
the statement that it was instituted for the promotion of inter-
course between those who cultivated science in different parts,
not merely of the British Islands, but of the British Empire. I
question whether any means of promoting this intercourse could
have been discovered more effectual than the holding of your
annual meeting in one of the great cities of this colony, and my
object in now addressing you is to express at the very outset the
satisfaction with which the people, not only of Montreal, but of
the whole Dominion, hail your arrival here and to welcome you
in their name to these shores. (Loud applause.) Perhaps yon
will allow me to stat« my own belief that if you were to select for
your place of meeting a spot within the colonial empire of
England, you could not have selected a colony which better de-
served the distinction, either in respect of the warmth of its
affection for the mother country, or in respect of the desire of
its inhabitants for the diffusion of knowledge and of culture.
(Applause.) In a young country such pursuits must be carried
on in the face of some difficulty and of the competition of that
material activity which must to a great extent engross the time
and absorb the att«ntion of a rapidly developing community
such as this. We may, however, claim for Canada that she has
ilone her best, that she has above all spared no pains to provide
lor the interest of science in the future, and that amongst those
who have done scientific work within the Dominion are men
known and respected far beyond the bounds of their own nation.
In this conitection I cannot deny myself the pleasure of referring
to the honours which have been conferred upon Sir William
Dawson within the last few days. (Loud and long continued

c 2

applause.) He is, unless I am misinformed, more responsible
than any one person for the visit of the Association, and I feel
sure that I shall command the acquiescence of all those who
have worked in the cause of Canadian culture when I say that
we regard the knighthood which Her Majesty has bestowed
upon him as an appropriate recognition of his distinguished
services, and as an opportune compliment to Canadian science.
(Applause.) But the significance of this meeting is far greater
than it would be if its results were to be measured merely by
the addition which it will make to the scientific wealth of the
empire. When we find a society which for fifty years has never
met outside the British Islands transferring its operations to the
Dominion — when we sc^ several hundred of our best known
Englishmen, who have acquired a public reputation, not only
in the scientific, but in the political and the literary world,
arriving here mingling with our citizens, and dispersing in all
directions over this continent ; when we see in Montreal the
bearers of such names as Rayleigh, PJayfair, Frankland, Burden,
Sanderson, Thomson, Roscoe, Blanford, Moseley, Lefroy,
Temple, Bramwell, Tylor, Galton, Harcourt and Bonney, we feel
that one more step has been taken towards the establishment of
that close intimacy between the mother country and her off-
spring, which both here and at home all good citizens of the
empire are determined to promote. (Loud applause.) The de-
sire for suoh cloeer intimacy is one of the most remarkable and
one of the best features in the political life of the present day.
Our periodical literature, our proceedings in parliament, the
public discussions which have recently taken place and in which
some of our most prominent Canadians have taken a part, all
indicate a remarkable awakening to the importance of the noblest
colonial empire which the world has ever seen, and a desire to
draw closer the ties of sympathy and allegiance which bind us
reciprocally. (Applause.) And, ladies and gentlemen, what-
ever difficulty there may be in the way of a revision of the
political relations of the mother country and her colonies, it is
satisfactory to reflect that there are none in the way of such an
alliance as that which yon are establishing to-day between tha
culture of the old world and that of the new. (Applause.) In
the domain of science there can be no conflict cf local and im-
perial interests — no constitution to revise — no embarrassing
considerations cf foreign and domestic policy. Wo are all

partners and co-heirs of a great empire, and we may work side
by side without misgiving, and with a certainty that every
addition to the common fund of knowledge and mutual enlight-
enment is an unmixed advantage to the whole empire. (Loud
applause.) T believe, Lord Rayleigh, that your visit will be
fraught with far reaching advantages both to hosts and guests.
We shall gain in acquaintance with our visitors, and in the pub-
licity which their visit will give to the resources and atti-actions
of this country. We believe that it will be more justly
apprecialet! in proportion as it becomes more widely known and
more thoroughly understood. (Applause.) Sympathy, as a
distinguished Canadian has lately written, begets knowledge,
and knowledge again adds to sympathy. You, ladies and
gentlemen, who have lately left the mother country, will gain
in the opportunity which will be afforded you of studying the
life of a people younger than your own but engaged in the
solution of many probl«ms similar to those which engage our
attention at home, and observing the conduct of your own race
amidst the surroundings of another hemisphere. On every side
you will find objects of interest. Our political system, the work-
ing of federation, the arrangements of the different provinces for
the education of our youth, our railways pushed across this
continent with an enterprise which has never been surpassed
by the oldest and largest communities — (loud applause) — our
forests, our geology, our mineral resources, our agriculture in
all its different phases ranging from the quiet homesteads and
skilful cultivation of the older provinces to the newly reclaimed
prairies of the North-west, which we expect to yield us this
season a surplus of from six to nine millions of bushels, the
history and characteristics of our native racen, and the manner
in which we have dealt with them — all these will afford you
opportunities of study which few other portions of the globe
could present in such variety. (Applause.) Of the facilities
which will be afforded to you and of the pains which have been
taken to render your explorations easy and agreeable, I need not
speak. Some of you are aware that a distinguished member of
an assembly to which you and I, Lord Rayleigh, have both the
honour to belong, has lately been cautioning the English public
against the dangers of legislation by picnic. (Loud applause.)
I have heard that in some quarters misgivings have been ex-
pressed. We too should be exposed to similar danger, and lest

the attractioDg which the Brititih Association is ofPered here
should conflict with its more strictly scientific objects. These
are probably rumores senum sevmurum, and I will only say of
them, if there is any ground for such apprehensions, you must
remember that hospitality is an instinct with our people, and
that it is their desire that you should see and learn a great deal,
and that you shonld see and learn it in the pleasantest manner
possible. (Applause.) I have only one word more to say. I
wish to express the pleasure with which I see in this room repre-
sentatives, not only of English and Continental and Canadian
science, but also many distinguished representatives of that grout
people which, at a time when the relations of the mother country
and her colonies were less wisely regulated than at present, ceased
to be subjects of the British Crown, but did not cease to become
our kinsmen. Many of you will pass from these meetings to the
great re-union to be held a few days hence at Philadelphia, where
you will be again reminded that there are ties which bind to-
gether not only the constituent par's of the British empire, but
the whole of the British race — ties of mutual sympathy and
good-will which such intercourse will strengthen and which, I
believe, each succeeding decade will draw more closely and
firmly together. (Applause.) I have now only to apologize for
having intervened in your proceedings. T feel that what I have
said would have come better from the lips of a Canadian. Others
will, however, have ample opportunities for supplementing both
by word and deed the shortcomings of which 1 may have been
guilty. It was my duty — and I have much pleasure in dis-
charging it — as the representative of the Crown in this part of
the empire to bid you in the name of our people a hearty welcome
to the Dominion. (Loud and long continued applause.)

Sir Wm. Thomson, in responding, said : — You will allow me, in
the first place, to ofFer my warmest thanks to His Excellency
the Governor-General for coming among us this evening, and
for the very kind and warm welcome which he has offered to
the British Association, on the part of the Dominion. Your
Excellency, it devolves upon me as representing Professor
Cayley, the president of the British Association, to do what I
wish he were here to do himself, and which it would have been
a well-earned pleasure for him to do — to introduce to yon Lord
Rayleigh as his successor in the office of President of the British
Association. Professor Cayley has devoted his life to the

:{•)

advancement of puro mathematics. It is indeed peculiarly
appropriate that ho should bo followed in the honourable post of
president by one who has done so much to apply mathematical
power in the various branches of phywical science as Lord
liayloigh has done. In the field of the discovery and demonstra-
tion of natural phenomena Lord Ilayleigh has, above all others
enriched nhysical science by the application of mathematical
analysis ; and when I speak of mathematics you must not
suppose mathematics to he harsh and crabbed. (Laughter.)
The Association learned last year at Southport what a glorious
realm of beauty there was in pvire mathematics I will not,
however, be hard on those who insist that it is harsh and
crabbed. In reading some of the pages of the greatest invest-
igators of mathematics one is apt to become wearied, and I must
confess that some of the pages of Lord Rayinigh's work have
taxed me most severely, but the strain was well repaid. When
we pass from the instrument which is harsh and crabbed to
those who do not give theniHclves the troublo to learn it
thoroughly, to the application of the instrument, see what a
splendid world of light, beauty and music is opened to us
through such investigations as those of Lord Rayleigh. His
book on h(jund is the greatest piece of mathematical investigation
we know of applied to a branch of physical science. The
branches of music are mere developments of mathematical
formulas, and of every note and wave in music the equation lies
in the pages of Lord Kayleigh's book. (Laughter and applause.)
Tiicre are some who have no ear for music, but all who are
blessed with eyes can admire the beauties of nature, and among
those one which is seen in Canada frequently, in England often, in
Scotland rarely, is the bine sky. (Laughter.) Lord Kajleigh's
brilliant piece of mathematical work on the dynamics of blue
sky is a monument to the application of mathematics to a subject
of supreme difliculty, and on the subject of refraction of light he
has pointed out the way towards finding all that has to be known,
though he has ended his work by admitting that the expliination
of the fundamentals of the reflection and refraction of light is
still wanting and is a subject for the efforts of the Briti^ll
Association for the Advancement of Science. But there is still
another subject, electricity and the electric light, and hero again
Lord Kayleigh's work is fnndanieiitnl, and one may hope from
the suggestions it contains that electricity may yet be put upon

the level of ordinary mechanics, and that the electrician may be
able to weigh oat electric quantities as eanily and readily as a
merchant could a (juantity of tea or sugar. (Applause.) It
remains for me only to fulfil the commission which Professor
Cayley has entrusted to me of expressing his great regret that
his engagements in England prevented his being with us, and in
his name to vacate the chair of president of the Association and
to ask Lord Rayleigh to take his place as President for
l«84. (Applause.)

[Lord Rayleigh then delivered the Presidential Address, a cofy nf
which is appended to this work."]

Lord Rayloigh was loudly applauded at the conclusion of his
address.

Hon. Dr. Chahveau in an eloquent speech in French proposed
a vote of thanks to Lord Rayleigh for the interesting sketch he
had given of modem science. In this scientific review Lord
Rayleigh had also displayed great literary ability. The reunion
to-day of the British Association was significant in the sense
that it extended the operations of the society to all parts of the
British Empire, so that while on the other side the question of a
federation of the British Empire was being raised, the British
Association had taken the lead in its sphere by casting out the
roots of a scientific federation. In this connection he spoke of
the work the Royal Society was doing in Canada. He was glad
to see that Lord Rayleigh did not hold extreme views as to the
elimination of classical studies from our schools, for he believed
that in those stores of antiquity our modern mind found a great
deal of its strength, and were this study abolished our mental
grasp and vigour would be greatly lessened. What Canada
required was the greater development of our universities. In
this way would science be most benefited, for we would have a
greater number of men able to devote themselves entirely to the
study of scientific subjects. He expressed the pleasure he felt at
the honour of knighthood conferred on Principal Dawson, an
honour in which the whole Canadian people felt pride, and con-
eluded amidst great applause.

Mr. HoGH McLennan in seconding the resolution said the very
interesting address which Lord Rayleigh had given them
was not only a source of pleasure to the audience, but gave

them an adequate idea of the wide field of knowledge and
research opened by those who devoted themselves to different
scientific pursuits. The presence of so many rr(,- devoted to
scientific pursuits in our midst could not fail to gi.'v' an iiipetua
to the study of science in this country. We had not many
scientific men, owing principally to the fact that the peojile who
settled here had given their attention to material pursuits, but a
new era was now opening. The wortliy chief of the government
must be gratified at the eucct^ss of his wise policy in encouraging
this movement, which couk! not fail to be of great profit to
Canadians, and he felt sure that no vote would be more heartily
given than the vote of thanks to Lord Rayleigh, which he had
much pleasure in seconding.

Sir Wm. Thomson put the motion, which was adopted
unanimously amidst loud applause.

Lord Rayleigh returned thanks for the honour done him, and
the meeting adjourned until Friday next, when Professor Ball
will deliver a lecture.

It was not very surprising that after all this excitement
'I had a very bad night and awoke quite ill Thursday-
morning, remained all day in bed nursing and starving,
and could not, therefore, go to two afternoon parties for
which we had invitations, nor to the grand evening
reception at the college. This morning I am feeling quite
well, and it is potiring with rain.

Friday Evening. — After luncheon Dr. P. Smith called
and went with me to Section A, but we were too late to

hear John's paper — He told mo that he and E start

for Quebec to-night after a lecture on " Dust," and stay at
the Lansdownes for the festivities there (we three have
settled not to go), and return Sunday evening. We went
then to Section B to hear something of Chemistry, and to
the Vicars Boyle's at the Windsor Hotel, and found her at
home. I have had a letter asking us all to go to the

Macplierson's at Toronto. Hedley and I called on tlie
McClennan'a (Dick's liosta) and found her to be a nice
clever woman, with seven sons and two daughters. Mrs.
Stephen had called in my absence and waited some time to
see me, and left a message for us to drink tea there Sunday,
but I shall probably be occupied elsewhere. Dick went to
see the Victoria Bridge to-day and dines here. Mr. Angus
has been telling us delightful accounts of some of the new
routes through the Eocky Mountains down to British
Columbia, which the Canadian Pacific Railway will take,
and which will be finished by the spring of next year. Their
surveyor, Mr. Van Horn, has just returned from an explora-
tion, and gave very curious details in answer to Professor
G. Ramsay's questions (brother of Sir James Ramsay) ,
Mr. Van Horn says the mountains sheer up eight to
eleven thousand feet ; glaciers are eighteen to twenty miles
lung ; trees two hundred and fifty feet high and thirty
in circumference. They have only to cut one down and
it makes a capital bridge at onco. He told us a curious
story of a Mr. Rogers, who started with a young engineer
to find a pass for the railroad over the Rocky mountains
which would, on its discovery, make him famous. After
their six days' pi-ovisions were all exhausted, Mr. Carroll,
the young engineer, said : " It is all very well for you,
but what shall I gain by risking my life and going on P "
" Well," said Mr. Rogers, " let us go to that high plateau
and think." While there, he decided to go on, upon
which Mr. Carroll again expostulated. Mr. Rogers then
exclaimed : " You see all these magnificent peaks, which
probably no human eye has seen before — now the grandest
of these shall be named after you if I succeed." Just
then a caribou went past. They gave chiise and ho took
them nine miles into a vrilley whore thoy did not find
h-im but did find a cache of food — and then the jja«« ! And

4;{

the highest mountain is called Mount Carroll at this
day, Mr. Angus does not encourage me much to go
to the Rocky Mountains, on the ground of fatigue and
hardships.

Wednesday, Sepcember 2nd. — I must bring up my journal
to this date. On Saturday there were no sections. John

and E Lansdownes and many others went to Quebec.

Owing to showers of rain the festivities there were rather

a failure. Miss Angus drove H and me to Mount Royal,

where we had a splendid view ; Dick walked up. We
then went to the market, and saw there all sorts of new
vegetables, fruits, and fish. The melons here aro delicious,
and we have had buckwheat cakes, and rice cakes, and
sweet potatoes, and bluebenies. The living here is very
good, and nothing can be more comfortable than we are ;
but the flies are sometimes an annoyance, and the darkness
of the rooms — which are kept dark to prevent their getting

in. Saturday afternoon Dick, H and I went to see

La Chine by rail to the steamer, and then down the
rapids, which were less dangerous looking than we
expected. A violent thunder-storm came on, and in the
middle of it we got into the whirlpool of the rapids,
and then a fiery red sun broke out among a mass of
dense black clouds ; a great fire appeared also near the
bar ' of the river, and all this combined, produced very
strik'ug effects. We met on the steamer Mr. George
Darwin and his Bride — a charming looking American
girl — J..:! looks already much better and hiippior !

Sundaif. — Miss A ,H , and Iwont tothe cathedral,

a full simple service and good sermon t'mni Mr. Champion.
In the afternoon I went with Dick to a musical service
ai St. James' Church — such a sermon ! from a man who
nearly wriggled himself out of the pulpit ; he came frc .i
Norwood, I heard.

Monday. — We went in the afternoon to a party at
Mrs. Redpatli's ; her son, "now gone to his home above,",
she said, had known one of mine at Cambridge. It is a
pretty place, on a hill near this, and a good many people
there; it got very damp after sunset. We none of us
went to an evening party going on at Mrs. Gault's,

being too tired. Mr. C called early and went with

me to sections ; John joined me, and we saw and heard
Captains Ray and Greely of Arctic fame. They say he
(Greely) and his living companions saved themselves from
starvation by eating their dead ones — a dreadful alternative,
but I don't think they were to blame ; it did'nt agree with
him, for he looks horribly ill, poor man ! In the afternoon
we all went to see the Indian game of La Crosse played
between twelve Montrealists and twelve Indians. It is
pretty and exciting, something between lawn tennis and
football — I could have watched it for hoixrs ! we were
all comfortably seated in places of honour on a covered
stand, which partly accounts for my enjoyment. After
this we went to tea with Mr. and Mrs. G. Stephens, and

there with John and E we finally settled with

Mr. Stephens to go by Canadian Pacific Railway to the
north-west ; Mr. Stephens oii'ered us a private car, pro-
visioned, &c. ; we take his to Toronto, and stay there with
Sir David and Lady Macpherson. This invitation is the
result of an introduction I had from a friend in England.
Several invites have come from Philadeli)hia and New York.
I sent a telegram to yoii yesterday, btit according to the
rales of the Company (who allow us to send free, subject

to these conditions), it must first go to 90, O G ;

you will write next to New York, and I will give directions
there respecting all letters. Please tell Edward at T. P.
and Mary.

Wednesday. — I went to Sections for last time ; in

4r)

afternoon to the closing meeting of British Association,
when they all butter one another ; the buttering of John
was, of course, very nice and justifiable ! Sir William
Dawson said among other things that John was to be
loved and admired as a man as well as a scientist. He
certainly looks gentlemanlike and sweet, and though
nervous, he always expresses himself well ; he and others
received the honour of D.C.L. from the McGill University
here. I forgot to say that on Tuesday evening there was
a grand reception by the civic authorities at the skating
rink, a very large hall, where we paraded up and down,
and the young ones danced (Hedley with Miss Angus),

and then I sat in a state gallery with E and other

grandees. I cannot say I was struck with the beauty
of the company. I made acquaintance with Captain
Greely — he does not look any better, poor man, but
has a nice expression. Wednesday evening we went to a
pretty party at Mr. Donald Smith's, the richest man in
Canada, and so kind and simple ; he had a ball-room
built at a day or two's notice, and tent for supper, and
Chinese lanterns lighted up the garden, &c. It was a lovely
night with full moon, and I was very glad to walk outside,
for the heat Avas very great, Mr. D. Smith asked me to

" Silver Heights," his place at Winnipeg. H^ and

Dick are both rather unwell to-day, and I hear poor Mr.
Walter Brown is dying. I am well enough now. It is
extremely hot, but there is always air. John has shirked
the Toronto function, and also the American Association
at Philadelphia — some of the B. A. are starting there
soon. We go alone to Toronto, and also to Winnipeg
and the Eocky Mountains. Miss Becker and Mrs. Hallett
called to see me, atid I signed a memorial of thanks to
Sir John Macdonald (the Premier of Canada), for pro-
posing Women's Suffrage here.

-k;

THR AMERICAN ASSOCIATION.

The fact that the British Association meets this year in
Canada gives unusual interest to the meeting of the American
Association for the Advancement of Science at Philadelphia,
from September 4 to 11. After the Montreal meeting tliose
who feel inclined can make their way leisurely to Philadelphia
where iii is evident from the information before us, they will
meet with a warm reception. On the Friday evening, Septem-
ber 6, after the address of the retiring president (Professor
C. A. Young, of New Jersey) p general reception will bo ten-
dered by the citizens and ladies of Philadelphia to the members
of the British and American Associations, and the ladies
accompanying them. The British Association has been
cordially invited, both by the American Association to take
part in the proceedings, and by the local committee representing
the citizens of Philadelphia, to accept the warm welcome which
will be tendered them during the joint session. The local
committee haa, indeed, been divided Jjjto a number of sub-
committees for the sole purpose of rendering the stay of their
visitors agreeable. It will, therefore, only bo courteous on the part
of Britons who intend to be present at the American meeting
to comply with the committee's request, and send their names,
together with the number of ladies and gentlemen in their
parties, as early as possible, to Dr. Persifor Frazer, 201, South
Fifth-street, Philadelphia. During the week occupied by the
session there will be a number of receptions, entertainments, and
excursions, and a day will be set apart for the examination of the
International Electrical Exhibition, to be held at Philadelphia
under the auspices of the Frnrklin Inslitute, and commencing
September 2. By an arrangement between Ihe Canadian and
United States Trunk lines, members of the British Association
will be conveyed between Mtntreal and Philadelphia at specially
low fares, while the hotel charges at Ihe latter city during the
meeting are not expected to exceed three dollars a day. We
believe the number who have already promised to be at the
Montreal meeting is about seven-hundred and fifty, so that with
those who will go without piomising, added to the many Canadian
and United States Bcicntists •v^ho arc sure to be jiresent, the
meeting is likely to be in numbers more than an average one.

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. US«0

(716)872-4503

September 7lh, Toronto, The " Chestnuts."

My beloved Mother. — I forgot to mention your birthday
when I last wrote, but you know bow glad I am that you
were born ! and how much I prize every year that is
added to your life ; and now as this will find you at dear
Mary's, please give her my fond love aad best wishes for
this day, and I shall drink her health to-day, and call
upon my sons to do the same. I posted my last letter at
Montreal on Thursday ; Dick was quite ill that day, and
after seeing him twice and shopping, I bid good-bye to
Mr. Angus, who went to New York, and then Miss Angus
drove me to see poor Mrs. Walter Brown, whose husband
was dying at the Hospital. I sent my card in and she
asked to see me. 1 did not know her much, but it was
very touching, and I felt my heart quite drawn to the
poor young woman, who came out with her husband on a
pleasure trip, and now has to leave him buried in a far
land. He got typhoid fever, and inflammation of the lungs,
and was lying unconscious on a hospital bed, while she
sobbed on my shoulder, and said " Oh what shall I do P
what shall I do P " I asked her if she had any diflBculty
about money matters, but she said Captain Douglas Galton
'aad called and kindly arranged everything for her with
one of our kind hosts at Montreal. Her father was
coming out to her as fast as he could, but could not be
at New York till the 12th, and her poor husband died
that night, and was buried yesterday. After this, which
upset me much, 1 went to the Stephens' and met John

and E and told them, and John went ofip also to see

Urs. Brown, for Mr. Brown had been a friend of his. The
Stephens' house is very gorgeous, and fiill of beautiful

satin-wood walls, and the staircase finely carved mahogany,
Mr. Angus' house, too, has much beautiful carved wood
about it, but the houses are kept so dark on account of
the heat and flies, that one can hardly see well enough to
appreciate these beauties. Excepting in this respect, and
the amount of carved wood, the atjle is very like the houses
of the middle class of well-to-do men in Scotland.

Friday. — I got up at six, and walked to see Dick, and
found him better, and he arranged, if well enough, to
follow us to Toronto; then we breakfasted and all the

family were up to see us off, and we joined John and E

at the station and arranged ourselves in the Directore' car
(Canadian Pacific Railway), a drawing-room with beds
(sofas), dining-room and table in centre, a little kitchen,
private bedroom, and two lavatories. We had a very hot and
dusty journey but were otherwise comfortable, and arrived

at Ottawa about twelve. John and E went off to lunch

with Lady Melgund at Bido, but as she did not know we
were coming I was not invited, and so Hedley and I
lunched in our car, and then drove to lionize the Claudiere
Falls, where the Ottawa River falls about two ^'undred feet.
The quantity of wood piled about is amazing (lumber they
call it; and it chokes up and destroys the effect of the
river, but it is not in itself ugly, for they arrange it so
beautifully and the colouring is bright. Then we drove
to the Government buildings, and there I was agreeably
surprised by the beautiful view, not so grand as Quebec
certainly, but very fine — the Ottawa, with headlands,
well wooded, frequently breaking the line of the river,
and the far reach of country vrith blue mountains in the
backgroimd, and then the air so deliciously sweet and pure,
and reviving. We returned there again in the afternoon,
and sat reading till half-past seven, when we returned
to our small house and John and E , and the

conductor gave us a capital dinner — champagne and all
sorts of good things, and we all enjoyed it. Then we
chatted and played whist, and then to bed. Hedley and

I in the drawing-room, and John and E in small

room, the maids in diaing-room. I can't say I slept well
for they moved our car once, causing our conductor to
storm at them for their impertinence, and the arrival
and departure of various trains and fog signals, &c., were
not calculated to favour one's slumbers ! Hedley declares
that a fog signal in the morning did not awake me, but
he slept through all. About twelve, Dick arrived from
Montreal, much better, and our car was fastened to the
train and on we went to Toronto. We all tried to read,
but oh ! the shaking, and dust, and heat were overpower-
ing ; still it was interesting to see what appeared a
primitive country with forests half burned, with stations
at " cities " consisting of apparently two or three wooden
bouses in the wood — I say apparently, for Sir D. Mac-
pherson told me there were splendid farms near the railway.
Sometimes we saw a pretty lake with park-like scenery
around, and we thought " here we could make a pretty
country place." At ten o'clock Saturday night we arrived
at Toronto, and Sir David Macpherson and his carriage
were waiting for us, and it was so delightful to drive in
an open carriage with a lovely moon shining and the
sweet, cool air refreshing us, that we were very sorry the

drive was so short. Lady M and her daughter,

Miss M , only in their house, which seems like an

English one in the style of arrangements — servants and
conservatories, and greenhouses, Ac, and my bedroom is
furnished like a Scotch one, full of pretty quilts and
muslin covers, and odds and ends. I was delighted to
find myself between two very fine sheets, and slept like a
top. Evelyn had a headache and did not get up or go to

church. We drove to the nearest and had a nice service
and fair sermon from a Mr. de Barr, son of a Canadian

Judge ; Dick, Miss M , and I stayed to Holy

Communion, and I was struck with the remarkable
number of young people who remained. After luncheon
I had a long talk with Sir David. He says we are quite
wrong about free trade : as the world is, it should be fair
trade, or England will continue to lose, as she is now
losing, every year. The Canadians are obliged to have
Protection on account of the United States, who would
send their manufactured goods by English vessels and so
ruin Canadian workshops. No country can grow and
prosper which only produces the raw article of food, &c.
Land alone cannot make a people rich or great ; he thinks
the Conservative party are not half active or energetic
enough, and we must have workmen orators stumping all
over the country to reach their own class, or we shall lose all
influence with those who will really be the ruling power.
Here, he says, the Conservatives are two to one in the
House of Commons ; the Radicals here abuse their
country, and try to hinder and injure all the enterprise
which would enlarge its borders and bring emigrants to
take possession, and do all they can to lower it in the
estimation of outsiders, in hopes that if things come to
smash they might have a chance of a reign of power.
Doesn't this remind one of some people in our own
country? Radicals are called " grits " here, and they say
you can recognize a " grit " when you see him, for though
they are not at all from one class or one industry, they have
heads that might betoken a sojourn in a penitentiary !

Monday, September 8lh. — We did not go anywhere last
evening but strolled abo\'t the garden. Mr. Brand, son
of the late Speaker, Mr. Morris, member of the Senate,
and another man, dined. Mr. Morris was Governor of

Manitoba. He said in the ja&r 1870 Winnipeg was a
little wild village. Now, when I asked him about buying
a few things at Toronto for the ftockj Mountains expe-
dition, he exclaimed " Oh ! wait until you get to
Winnipeg, you can get everything there ! " He described
a ball he had given to some royalties (I forget which)
and how he had to scour the country for three hundred
miles round to get provisions enough for the supper, in
the year 1874. In my youth I remember reading of
Winnipeg, Fort William and Lake Superior as the out-
posts of the Hudson Bay Company, and how travellers,
trappers, &c., endured all manner of hardships, and
crossed lakes with Indians carrying the canoes from lake
to lake, and guiding them through endless swamps and
rocky hills, \mtil half-frozen and starved they arrived
quite exhausted at these distant forts. Now we travel by
rail in a private car, and Mr. Donald Smith has a country
house near Winnipeg, to which he invited us, and all
along there are " rising cities " which did not exist in any
shape five years ago. When this Canadian Pacific Railway
is finished to British Columbia, and the Atlantic and
Pacific are united by it in one, our " Dominion " then
ought to have a splendid future. I don't think I
told you about Mr. Van Horn's conversation with
me at Montreal — he said " we are a great deal too quiet
in Canada; we don't puff ourselves enough or make
enough of our advantages and our doings. Why, wo live
next door to fifty millions of liars and we muat brag or
we shall be talked out."

Monday, later. — I have jvat returned from a drive with

Miss M and Hedley to Toronto, and I am surprised at

its size and importance, and busy look and general air of
English prosperity and neatness. Though Montreal is
very pretty, the town is too French and idle-looking to be

D 2

impressive — ^there are numbers of well-kept villas and
gardens here. We are now going out to see a regatta on

Lake Ontario and to tbe island. Lady M said last

night, when making arrangements, " I think this will suit
the joung people," and I exclaimed " Don't put me
among the old ones, please," so I am going. Sir D— —
has gone to Ottawa on Ministerial business.

September 12th, Niagara Fallt,

On Tii.esday we drove with John, and Dr. Wilson
shewed us over the University and some pretty sketches
be had taken. We got berths on board the steamer from
Owen Sound on Saturday. It is difficult to find out who
manages these things, and we had telegrams going to
two or three places before we could make certain of
our berths. At four o'clock all sorts of people called,
being Lady Macpherson's " at home " day, and many on

me and E . I don't admire Canadian women etpecially I

We had fourteen at dinner and a delightful old Irishman,
Chief Justice Haggerty, took me in. The Lieutenant-
Governor, Mr. Bobinson, though only the Provincial
Governor, is treated as the representative of the Queen,
and goes before every one. Profe:?90r Godwin Smith and
his wife were also of the party. B.> says (but I am sure
he is prejudiced and that it is not true) that the Canadian
Government is just as corrupt and that there is as much
bribery as in the States. Mr. G. Smith difters in opinion
with every one, for the Liberal side would not publish his

letters in the papers, and so he s^nt them to the
Conservatives, and he says they are far more impartial
and just.

Wednesday^ lOth, — ^We started here at one o'clock,
first by steamer on Lake Ontario. It was refreshing after
being nearly melted at Toronto, for there was a good
breeze. The size of these inland seas strike one much.
We arrived at Niagara about four, and found Mr. Plumb,
John's quondam friend of eighteen years ago, waiting
for us in waggonette, and we drove at once to his pretty
house, surroundod by peach orchards and vines, an untidy
but pretty garden. He asked after Leonard and Mary.
Then we had tea, presided over by his pretty daughter
of sixteen, and then the train by his orders stopped for
us at his garden door, and, as he informed me, the last
time it did so, was for the Prince of Wales ! We arrived
here, Clifton House, the Hotel, by a picturesque railway
journey, and are opposite the American Falls, and the
Horse Shoe Palls are on our right, nearly facing us.
Like many other people, I am rather ashamed to confess
I am not as much impressed and overwhelmed as I ought
to be ! Dick took a note from Mr. Plumb to his nephew,
Mr. Macklem, and he arranged to call for us at three. In
the morui ■ ve drove to the Bapids and Whirlpool, and
went up and down all sorts of queer places in qiieerer
elevators. The river looked beautiful, a blue-green colour,
and the whirlpool is mysteriously curious, where poor
Captain Webb disappeared ! In the afternoon the
Macklems took us to the American side on the fine
Suspension Bridge, and then to Prospect Park, Goat
Island, and different peeps and vistas of the Falls and
Bapids. I think the immense breadth and volume of water,
with the incessant rush and roar of the river, strike me
more than the actual Falls. We saw some rapids between

the islands "Weird Sisters," and finally drove to Mr.
Macklem's place, surrounded by rapid streams of the
Niagara and very pretty. There seems no end to this
river, it has so many turns and arms and rapids. We
had tea (by this time I was nearly dead), and three
dear small boys appeared; one only two and half had
a violin, and he imitated a person playing on it, and
made the sounds with his voice in the most amusing
clever way, and laughed so merrily when we shouted
applause. Mr. Macklem drove us home, and after dinner

we played whist in E 's nice bedroom. This morning

I am not well ! We have seen the maids off with the
luggage by early rail and boat for Toronto and follow
in afternoon.

Friday, continuing, — I was unable to see anything more
of Niagara; the others crossed the ferry. We left at
twenty minutes to five, and owing to the steamer being
late on Lake Ontaiio we did not reach the Macphersou's
till half -past nine. They waited dinner, and we rushed
down, at least I did, just twelve minutes after my
arrival, and also dressed ! A Mr. Pattison, a very agree-
able-looking man, who seems an authority on farming,
and a Mr. and Mrs. Plumb (son of our Niagara friend),

who was once at T P , but I had entirely

forgotton him. Mr. Pattison spoke of the ignorant, idle,
good-for-nothing young men sent out here to make a
living by their worried relations, sometimes with scarcely
a sixpence, in which case they starved but for the charity
of himself and others, or if with any money they fell into
bad hands and lost everything. So many are sent here
that he has made a kind of home for the destitute.

Saturday Morning. — Sir David M returned from

Ottawa, and we breakfasted together. We nearly missed
the train at Toronto (not having Miss M to keep us

in order; I call her Queen Christina, she is so masterful),
but just managed to get ourselves and luggage in,
and to see George Bunburg, whom I had made several
attempts to see before, and who I hear is enterprising
and likely to do well. We reached Owen Sound, and got
into the steamer all right about three o'clock. Nice
farms nearly all along the line.

Sunday, 14ith September. — I slept pretty comfortably.
We got into a narrow passage between Lakes Superior
and Huron, which was pretty and curious, great numliers
of islands and a very narrow path marked out for steamers,
which, as we met several, made the risk of collision
seem very imminent ; they moved very slowly, and
nave established regular rules of the road, but cannot
travel by night, or if a f^if comes on. St. Mary le Soult
is a pretty place, on one side American, where they have
made a lock to avoid the rapids from Lake Huron to Lake
Superior. We waited some time to get into the lock,
and then found ourselves in the largest lake in the world,
five hunded miles long by three hundred and fifty miles
wide. Of course, it is like the sea, and while I am
writing it is rough enough to make it difficult. No land
is in sight. I have had a talk with an Archdeacon who
lives near St. John's College, Winnipeg, and is reading
" Natural Law ; " it is really getting very rough and I
must stop.

Tuesday, 16th. — I am writing in the train, and I am
thankful to be alive in it. We arrived at Port Arthur
at eight o'clock yesterday, 16th, but could hear nothing
of our private car, and when the train arrived no car
still to be seen. At last, after himting about and asking
everyone, it turned up, and was very satisfactory. Two
men were there to wait on us, and it was well provisioned,
and we set off about an hour and-half late, but no one

minds such a trifle in these parts. At first the line was
fairly straight and smooth, but then the country became
wonderfully wild, with rocky hills covered with stumpy
trees and undergrowth of brilliant colouring, and wooded
lakes without end. In and out we wound, sometimes over
most light and primitive bridges, and over higL embank-
ments, often running along the margin of the lakes,
consisting of loose sand, which frequently rolled down the
sides as we went over them. It luined nearly all day,
and towards night it poured and was pitch dark. I was
just undressed, and congratulating myself that we had
been standing still at a station, and so I had been able
to do it comfortably, and just got into my sofa bed, with
Dick and Hedley opposite me behind their curtains, when
we set o£F, and in a few minutes I felt a violent con-
cussion; so many jerks come in common course that I
was not frightened, but we stopped, and then our head
man came to the door and said with dignity, " I think it
right to announce to you, my lady, that an accident has
happened." " What is it ? " " The engine went over
a culvert bridge all right, but the baggage waggon next
to it fell down off the line, and as we were going slowly
they put on the brake and no other carriage followed."
"Can we go on to-night?" "Oh no, the roadway is
broken up." This was a shock to my nerves, but at
any rate we were safe for the night, and after running

in and telling John and E , we soon all fell asleep.

During the night they tacked on an engine, with its
great lamp eye at the back of our car (we are the last
carriage), and every few minutes this monster gave a
tremendous snort, but nothing awoke Hedley, who slum-
bered peacefully through it all. We got up early, rushed
off to the scene of the disaster, as did all the other
passengers. It was marvellous that the engine went

over that bridge, for really the rails were almost suspended
in mid air, but fortunately for us it did, or we should
have followed and telescoped, and probably been hurt
or killed, the baggage waggon being suspended between
the engine and cars, all en one side and down the bank
close to the lake, the window broken through wl 'ch the
guard jumped out. We trembled for our luggage, which
was all there. The lakes and gaily coloured hills that
elsewhere I should admire, make our railroad so dangerous
that we have to creep along, sometimes over long spidery
wooden bridges, and again on most shaky and uncertain
looking embankments, and round sharp comers; every
now and then we stop for no apparent reason, and then
all rush to the platforu, of our car to see what is the
matter. Once a party of the railway officials got out and
run back ; we thought some of our luggage had fallen out,
but it seems one of the bridges over which we had just
passed was rather shaky, and they went to investigate.
If we had gone on last night we meant to be detached
at Rat Portage, or Lake of the Woods, but now we go
on to Winnipeg if, please God, we can get there.

Wednesday 17th. — Soon after writing yesterday, our
steward came in with a solemn face and said: "I have
unpleasant news to communicate ; a wire has just come
to forbid the train crossing the tressel bridge in front
of us, so every one must walk, and the luggage be
carried over." The railroad is only lately completed, anu
they have had no experience hitherto of the effect of
heavy rains. Some of the bridges are only temporary
ones, but no doubt it will be a good and safe line soon.
When one considers the country it passes through, and
the difficulties of all sorts that they have had to encounter,
I think the Canadian Pacific Railway Company and
engineers, &c., deserve great credit. " There is a train to

meet us on the other side of the bridge to take us on to
Winnipeg ; " upon which there was a general outci7.
" Part with our comfortable car and provisions ? Forbid
the thought ! " " How long will it take to repair the
bridge ? " "I dont know at all ; it may be d .ys or a
fortnight." After confabulating with the conductor of
the train, we settled to remain this side of the bridge,
and be shunted off till it was repaired, and tacked on
to a train again for Winnipeg. We went as far as the
bridge, and a curious scene was before us ; the passengers
for Rocky Mountains on the other side had been waiting
there for hours, our train being delayed by the accident,
and they proved to be some of our long lost friends of
the British Association; we greeted each other with
effusion ; they rushed on our car, and spoke all at once
about the glories of the Bockies and the dangers they
had escaped, and the fun they had, &c. Some conducted
me to the bridge to see what had happened there ; con-
sidering that there was a great gap in the bridge, and
the tressels were lying about anyhow, and a great iron
crane hung suspended over the hole by one hook, and
the engine lay on its side below, the wire message telling
us it would not be safe to go over was rather ironical !
AH the luggage of the two trains was spread all over the
rocks and bushes, and people running here and there,
the silent lake so pretty and lovely in contrast. The
men with the crane were coming to our assistarce at
Vermillion Bay (where our culvert bridge gave way),
and the engineer felt the tressels bending as the engine
crossed, and was considering whether to jump off or stay ;
he decided to remain in the cab of the engine, as the jump
was a very high one, and down they went to the bottom,
but the men were only cut and bruised, and one broke his
leg. This accounted for the delay in our getting

assistance, and fortunately for us all, that our small
accident happened when it did. As our friends from
Winnipeg thankfully exclaimed, "if it had not been
for your accident, which was happily so harmless, we
should have gone over that bridge, and as our train
was faster and heavier there would probably have been
a greater smash ; " and we exclaimed, " but for our
comparatively harmless accident, we should have gone
over that bridge that night and como to great grief."
Wasn't it a mercy we escaped P We had Professor Boyd
Dawkins, Professor Shaw, Mr. de Hamel, Bishop of
Ontario, Mr. Stephen Bourne, Ac, on our car for some
miles on our way back, and then we were shunted on a
siding to wait as patiently as we could. At this Hawk
something station we parted with our British Association
friends, with many good wishes and waving of Lard-
kerchiefs, and were left shunted on the edge of a
disagreeable embankment over the lake. After all this
excitement we read, had dinner and played whist ; then
made our own beds, and all the ' boys ' slept in the

drawing room with me last night, and E had the

state cabin to herself. It was very cold in the night,
and T had to hunt up another rug. We breakfasted at
half-past eight, and now the others are taking a walk
while I write. I forgot to say Gibson and Roberts went
on with our luggage, . rose the bridge (or rather, by
its side), in the train w^ich returned to Winnipeg, and
there they will stay till we return from the Rockies.

E and the boys are just off in the cab of an engine

exploring to the broken bridge. It will be fun, perhaps,
for them, but / find I have frights enough to endure
in our necessary journeys. There is actually a cow at
this station, so we had milk for porridge and tea;
moreover, there is a piece of ploughed land, a rare

sight in this wild stony watery country. The Canadian
Pacific Railway have not had experience before this
autumn of the effect of heavy rains on their road, bridges,
&(i., and things have sometimes come to giief in con-
sequence ; some bridges are very good and not temporary.

Later. — Since writing the foregoing, John and E

and Hedlcy went off on the cow-catcher of an engine for
two or three miles excursion ! Dick did not " paddle his
own canoe," but the station master did for him on the lake
here, and he nearly succeeded in catching a large trout !
He and I wandered afterwards on the Rocky Hill, and
picked enough blueberries for dinner, and I refreshed
my eyes with some lovely-berried red-leaved little shrubs.
Since luncheon a telegram came, telling us we might go
over the bridge, and so off we went, and on ariving
walked all about, some sketching the fallen engine, &c.
Wc set off with Mr. Egan the manager, in his car in
front of us, en route for Rat Portage, where I am finishing
this journal up to this date, Wednesday, September 17th.
It is lovely weather now, and this place is very pretty,
and looks quite civilized after our wilderness kind of
scenery. Mr. Egan is now going on to Winnipeg, and
will post this for me. After our return from the Rockies
to Winnipeg, we shall go to Chicago, Washington ai d
Philadelphia, where write.

Scltet ITo. 6.

September 21st, 1884. — I am beginning this in our
car en route to the Rockies, in fact with their snow-
covered summits well in sight. I posted a letter to

you, No. 6, at Winnipeg, and also a newspaper for Mary.
Trom Winnipeg the Canadian Pacific Eailway is much
more comfortable, for on the boundless flat of the
prairies there is no ne'jd for many tressel bridges or
crumbling embankments, and we went along without
fear, excepting that in the neighbourhood of settled
parts, we had to look out for cows. Once we stopped
very suddenly (their brakes are so good in America),
having near gone over one in the dark. They use
sometimes a curious kind of sound from the engine,
not unlike the moo of a cow in distress, and I saw
it effectually drive some off the line. The maids met
us at Winnipeg Station, and seemed anxious to go to
the Eockies, so we settled they might, and they rushed
back for their things, but they returned only in time
to see our train off ! On the whole we thought it was
as well they had not come, for maids don't generally
like this kind of life, and we did not need them. We
changed cooks at Winnipeg against my wish, but the
others were not satisfied with our first one, and we
have certainly not changed for the better; he is a
coloured man called David, a.nd has been ill, or
pretends to be, since yesterday, and another coloured
man whom, we call Jonathan, comes in to help him.

Saturday. — We arrived at Moose Jaw after a very
rocking journey, so bad that I could not sleep, and sat
in a chair part of the night ; at last, however, the cold
and sleepiness overcame all fear, and I slept in my bed
soundly. We saw lots of Indians in red and white
blankets, ugly and uninteresting creatures. We made
acquaintance with the Eoman Catholic Archbishop, who
has been travelling in the car next to ours. He is a
French Canadiaji, but talked English well. He is very
pleasant. He introduced me to two priests, one of

whom had been working among the Indians thirty
years. Afterwards he had a talk with John, and
remarked upon my youthfulness to be his mother. Of
course, I am always being taken for his wife, and they
seem very much puzzled about it altogether.

Saturday night, the 20th. — We reached Calgai-ry after
a quieter night — quite an important city. A good many
wooden houses, two or three churches (I think the
congregations must be very small in each), and on
Sunday morning all the inhabitants were out in their
best, the men loafing and smoking about, and quite
smart-looking young ladies showing their finery with
great enjoyment, as they do at home. A mounted
police officer drove a pair of good horses to meet
some of his men, and there are cavalry barracks here
for them. The train twice a week from Winnipeg is
their only communication with the outer world, so
when it arrives everyone, even from long distances,
crowds the platform. We always take a walk at these
resting places, but it is nervous work to go far, as th'^
train starts without any notice, and they never keep
to the time named.

Wednesday, September 26th. — After leaving Calgarry,
which I forgot to say is near a coal mine (Mr. de
Winton, son of Sir IVancis, has a ranche near), and is
likely to be an important place some day, we went to
Laggan, which is well into the mountains, and there we
saw Professor George Ramsay, brother of Sir James, and
he told us to get hold of the contractor, Mr. Eoss, who
would help us about going further on. The railway
people, &c., all said to our great disgust that ladies would
not be allowed to go down the steep incline to British
Columbia; upon this we found out Mr. Eoss, and he
kindly consented to take us down the Pacific slope in his

own car. At first the boys said / had better remain
behind in our own car, but I felt that if there was a risk
I would rather encounter it with them, and I wanted to
see more of the country, so we prepared to start on
Monday, but it poured, and Mr. Ross would not go till
Tuesday. We took a small bag with night-gown, brush
and comb, &c., and left the rest of our goods in charge
of the odious, but I think honest, David, and started
yesterday morning in Mr. Ross's car, in some respects a
more convenient one than ours, for it has a writing table
and a stove in the sitting room after an early breakfast
at half-past seven. It was a glorious sunny day. We
had two engines reversed, one before and one behind, and
no end of brakes with safety ' switches,' every now and
then to be turned on and to send us up hill if the engines
ran away with us, and we crept down very slowly. It was
very exciting, and the scenery magnificent, vistas of
snowy mountains opening continually as we turned the
comera, covered with brilliant yellow and red and purple
foliage ; and when we came to the foot of Mount Stephen
(called after Mr. George Stephen, of Montreal), Mr. Koss
said, "we ought to call one mountain Eayleigh." I
exclaimed, " Oh, yes ! There is a beautiful snow one
which has been in sight all the way coming down, let

that be Raleigh." And so it was agreed, and E and

I sketched it. Afterward Mr. Ross said, "Eayleigh
has quite a family after him," a curious succession of
gradually decreasing tops, and we agreed that they
should be his fiue brothers. At one place we went down
to a bridge, very high over a river, and I thought, "it
would be unpleasant if the engine runs away here,"
but curiously enough I was not at all nervous, for
I felt so much care was taken, and it was a glorious
day, and the scenery lifted one's soul above the small

things of life here, and made one think of Him who
created all these wonders, and yet became our human
friend and sympathizer, and now lives to give us bye
and bye even " greater things than these ! " At last
we got to the Flats all safe, and then John and Dick
walked to the end of the "construction," about five
miles. If one was prepared to ride and rough it ex-
ceedingly, one could reach the Pacific in ten days, but
ladies could not undergo the hardships, and we would
not be left alone. Mr. Eoss informed us that we must
return soon to Kicking Horse Lake and Laggan, as
there would be no train later. However, we said that
John was extremely anxious to see the working of the
line at the end, and it would be a great pity for him not
to have the time, and " could wo stay the night ? " He

replied, " certainly." Hedley and E walked on at a

great pace after the other two, beyond my powers, and
I sauntered on quietly alone, only meeting a few men,
belonging to the railway in most cases and working
on the line, which is the only road which one can walk
on comfortably hero, and I got three miles, but then
a horrid bridge stopped me, as I hate walking on planks
far apart over a height without a helping hand. I have
been all along struck with the far superior accent and
good English of the working men in America (Canada
especially) ; they have often very good features, too, and
wear a well-shaped moustache, and meet one with a
smile. They treat one as equals, but they are not at all
rude, and are always willing to help. I spoke to some in
my solitary walk, and only that they were hard at work
hammering in nails, &c., I should have liked to "tell them
a story." They all returned from end of "construction " on

a truck train, Dick and E on an open car, and Hedley

and John in the cab of the engine. We then dined ;

such a fat coloured man Mr. Boss has in his car ! He
could hardly squeeze through the narrow passages, but
he managed to give us something to eat. Mr. Ross
received a telegram later to say Mr. Angus, our host
at Montreal, Mr. Donald Smith, both directors of the
Canadian Pacific Railway, Mr. Cyrus Field, &c., &c.,
were at Calgarry, and wanted to come on, so all is
arranged for them, and they are expected soon, nd we
hope to return with them this afternoon to Laggan, to our

own car. Last evening E suddenly said, "I wish

we could sleep in a tentP" Mr. Ross answered, "I can
easily manage it for you," and accordingly two men of
business (I think contractors for food, &c.), were turned
out of their tent, and came to our car, and John and

E slept in their small tent near the river. I don't

think they will want to do it again, and I was better off
in a nice room all to myself, where I could dress com-
fortably, but had not many appliances for that end. We
all met at eight o'clock breakfast, and our black man
(who looked more than ever like a large bolster, well
filled and tied at the top for his head), cooked us an
eatable beef-steak, and after this John and Mr. Ross's
brother " Jach " rode off to penetrate as far as they could
beyond " construction." I am a little nervous about his
ride, for the road is a mere track, and very rough,

however, waggons and mules do travel on it, E has

made many pretty sketches; mine are scanty and per-
fectly horrid. I don't improve at all. The sun is trying
to come out. We are on a siding, close to numbers of
tents and mules and wagons, a sort of dep6t for provisions,
clothes, &c. I have never seen a tipsy man or woman since
I landed at Quebec ! and in many parts of Canada alcohol
cannot be bought, and the penalty is always severe for
selling or giving it to an Indian. Further on I passed

yesterday quite a " city " of tents ; over one was printed
" Hotel Fletcher," another, " Restaurant, meals at all
hours," "Denver Hotel," "Laundry," "Saloon," &c.
These are Bpeculations, and are not connected with railway
officials. Some of the men (one was taking a photograph
of " the city,") have the American twavj. Mr. Ross is going
off directly the directors arrive, far into the interior, on
an exploring tour into the Selkirk range, &c. The line
is "graded" about fifty miles further on, and the bridges
and tunnels are making. They are working the other
end from Port Moodie on the Pacific, and will meet by
the spring of next year. What a pity the British
Association's visit to Canada was not in 1885 instead of
18849 Some day they are going to carry the line
higher up, so as to avoid the steep incline down which
we travelled so cautiously, but they are veiy anxious
to get the line done somehow, and it is really wonderful
at what a pace they go.

Calgarry, September 27th. — On Wednesday, 24th, after
John had gone off riding, Dick and I waited about for
the directors' car, which we expected that morning, but
alas! though it arrived at eleven, they only stopped
at the telegraph office a moment, took no notice of us,
and went on to the end of " construction," returning in
about an hour, (John got back much later, and we
wondered why Mr. Ross advised him to go, as it obliged
him to miss this car) ; they again only made a pause,

during which Dick spoke to Mr. Angus, and E also

had a few words with Mr. D. Smith, but she was too
modest in urging our claims to be helped on up the
incline and they went and left us in the lurch. I heard
afterwards that the American part of the company were
in a great hurry to get on, Mr. Angus Field having
telegrams following him all along the line, but we should

not have detained them, and they would only have had
to drop U8 at Laggan, where our own car was waiting.
So we had to wait another night, and all went to bed
very grumpy !

Thursday, 25th. — After breakfast we walked some
way, and then Hedley and I remained at the telegraph
station (this is the only source of information in these
parts), and the others went on. An hour or two later
the freight train began to think of starting up the
incline, and Hedley and I got into ti 9 cab of the

engine. We soon came up with E , who joined us

there. Some two or three milos further on John and
Dick appeared, wildly gesticulating as they stood on
the middle of the line to try and stop us, but the engineer
declared we were now on too steep an incline, and on
we went, much to our dismay, for this entailed thirty or
forty miles' walk for rheumatic John and not over-strong
Dick. We reached the top all right, and found ourselves
at " Kicking Horse Lake," and to our great relief up
walked John and Dick. It seems they made a rush at the
train as it passed, and John jumped on an open car all
right — but Dick caught his foot in a sleeper and fell
down, but had the presence of mind to pick himself up
very quickly, and caught the last engine (we had one at
eacii end) and jumped on the cow catcher ! £ shuddered to
think what might have happened to Diok when he fell,
but he only got a bruise on his knee and a severe injury to
his trousers ! We reached Laggan about half -past one, and
found our cook atill much of an invalid, with a real negro
to assist him ! I think the negroes are much more manly
and altogether pleasanter than the half-breeds, who are
mean, discontented, and impertinent when they dare.
This negro was a capital servant, and had lived with his
present master (to whom he was retui ling after the said

IS 2

master's absence in Europe) twelve years. We left Laggan
at half-past nine, Friday 26th, and had glorious scenery,
most of which we had previously passed in the dark.
Rocky mountains with their snowy tops all about us, and
the lovely yellow and red and purple colouring on their

sides. E sketched vigorously pud I smudged ! We

reached Calgarry about five, ''nd ' .-md the Indians in
great force, for they had recei' croaty money quite

lately, and were arrayed in gorgeous blinkets of red and
white and blue, and any number of ijold and coloured
beads ! They are quiet enough, and don't look at all as if
they would venture to scalp us, or make an oration like
"Chincanchooke" with dignified eloquence; the expression
of the elder ones is unpleasant, and you can see at once
the results of even a liltle education by the brighter and
happier countenances of the boys and girls. I took a
lonely walk on the prairie, over which a strong cold wind
was blowing. I saw several people riding in the distance.
We left Calgarry on 27th, Saturday, by a t^ain partly
freight, and consequently it rocked and Juiaped, and
crashed and crunched, and we could scav -y Ciaj whist,
or hear each other speak, and when we wf t » I'oc, sleep
was banished, at least from my eyes. I waku'" I V':?, atars
instead, and the brilliant morning star about thiro r four
o'clock shining like a small moon, and then the sun rise
over the prairie. We arrived at Winnipeg about six o'clock,
on Monday, 29th j our nasty cook had no dinner provided 1 > r
us, and though we had authority for remaining that night in
the car to sleep, conflicting orders produced all kinds of
unpleasantness, and we were shunted about and taken
two or three miles off from the der^ where alone we
could get anything to eat. After mu :, ' r .t great fuss we
were taken back and had a good dinu'^-z at ihe restau-
rant, which we enjoyed after our monotonous fare in

the car. Our maids, who had been a fortnight at the
Hotel doing nothing but spending our money, met us
and brought letters, &c. Dick heard from Augusta for
the first time — her letters had not reached him.

LORD RATLSIOH, THE FRBSIDBMT OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION,
AND PARTT RETURN FROM THE BOCEIBS.

Lord Rayleigh, the president of the British Association for
the advancement of Science, Lady Rayleigh, Clara Lady
Bayleigh, Hon. Hedley Strutt and Hon. Richard Stratt
returned yesterday afternoon from the Rockies in a private
car attached to the regular train.

A Times reporter boarded the car about nine o'clock lart
night, and had a pleasant chat with Lord Rayleigh and the
members of the party. They went to within a few miles of the
Columbia River, saw the i-ails being laid on the Canadian
Pacific Railway and were very much pleased with the wonder-
ful rapidity the work was being done. Lord Rayleigh said he
thought the Rockies were one of the wonders of the world
— next to the Canadian Pacific, chimed in Mr. Strutt and
Clara Lady Rayleigh. The latter said the party were struck
with the brightness, intelligence and kindness of the men
along the Canadian Pacific Railway line. The kindness they
had shown to them would never be forgotten. The party
could scarcely believe that the towns along tb*" railway bed
grown up to their present size within the pa' b two or three
years, as they did not think it possible in a n jw country like
this. They were loud in their praises of the country, and
predicted that thousands of emigrants would come from
England to Manitoba as a result of the Association's visit
here.

The party put up at the Potter House to-day, and will leave
for the east to-night. — Winnipeg Daily Times, September 30lh.

Jlettct Wo. 7.

Washington, Sunday, &th.
I was obliged to leave oflF yesterday, and now proceed

to take up the tale begun in the train to Chicago. I was
telling you about our arrival at Winnipeg, &c. We
returned to our car after dinner and found oursolves,
during our first sleep, shunted off to a repairing shed,
and presently I heard what seemed a shower of stones
thrown all over the car. I could look out of u window
sitting up in my bed, and on doing so, I saw two men
violently throwing water over it from a hose, and some of
it came into my bed, upon which I showed my lovely
countenance with dishevelled hair and indignant ex-
pression, and called out : " Are you going to drown me in
my bed?" and then I heard a man say — "La! there ia a
young lady at the window ! don't disturb her ! " however,
just at dawn they were at it again, and at six o'clock began
to move us into the shed. I jumped up and expostulated in
my dressing gown on the platform (all the rest were in their
beds) and insisted upon their asking for orders from head-
quarters ; just then, fortunately, an early bird in the shape
of a representative of the Press appeared, and I got
John to talk to him, and he went off to the authorities,
and we were shunted to the dep6t again, and so got our
breakfast by ten o'clock ; the reporters always think I am

John's wife (E is generally out of the way), and I

believe the last idea is, that John and I have a grown

up family, of which E is one ! It is rather fun to be

interviewed, and John is now less shy about it, and
consents to be pumped (in a measure). After breakfast
we all drove in a horse -car up the main street, and were
twice off the rails and sunk into a mud hole, and the boys
had to help in lifting the omnibus out of it. They are
slowly paving the streets, but there never was such a
muddy lane calling itself a street anywhere before, I am
sure ; there are nice shops, however, and respectably
dressed people walking or driving. We lunched and

cleaned ourselves at Potter House, where the maids had
been living during our absence in the Bockies, and it
seems Mrs. Smith, the landlady, came from Lady Ward's,
and knew the Claughtons, and lived for years with the
Miss Bakers at Ross, (these unexpected encounters
make one realize how narrow the world is). The country
is ugly about Winnipeg, and so after paying a visit to the
Archdeacon, whom we met in going there some fortnight
ago, and seeing his nice house and wife, we dined at the
depot and left for Chicago ; our coloured cook was walking
and dawdling about apparently quite well, now that he
had got rid of us. We had sleeping berths in the train—
an unknown man slept in the one over mine, and I had to
dress and undress behind the curtains of my own. We
breakfasted at Bamsville Wednesday morning, and that
evening stopped in poiiring rain at Milwaukie; it is a finely
situated town, but the station had been lately burnt down,
and we were very cold and uncomfortable for two hoiirs.
Poking about to amuse themselves, the boys saw a large
long deal box, directed Mrs. J. Stacey, and on a card
attached, " This is to certify Mr. J. Stacey did not die of
any infectious complaint." So he was waiting there to be
sent on to her by next train, and we hope she got him
safely,

Thursday, Two o'clock p.m., we reached Chicago. Minnie-
appolis, which we passed through, is likely to be a fine
city. We went to the Grand Pacific Hotel and were
separated by long corridors and staircases, and spent our
time chiefly in trying to find one another amidst its vast
solitudes. Of course one never sees a chambermaid, or
any one, and the quantity of little dishes and fine sounding
names which one is served with at meals does not make
up for the other discomforts.

Friday, 3rd. — John had a letter to the pork-killing man,

Mr. Armour, and he kindly sent two carriages for us,
■with an assistant, who was to lionize us about. We drove
first to the Bank and got some money, and then through
the best parts of the town, along the Michigan Boulevards,
through which we had glimpses of the Lake, but every-
thing here is sacrificed to the almighty dollar, and the
railway engines poke themselves in everywhere, down the
best streets, and destroying the prettiest landscapes, and
making unearthly noises close to your bedroom, or puffing
their steam out under your nose as you walk.

Chicago looks a more bustling, and a newer and a more
railroad-dominated place than Glasgow, but like it in
smoke and business aspect. As to the Boulevards, the
houses are most of them new, and some in startling styles
of architecture. Some in red, which are very good. One
was nearly finished of white marble, quite a palace, with
more ground than usual round it ; but alas, for human
hopes, the man who owns it and millions of dollars, has
lately been pronounced mad, is in the care of a wife whom
he lately married, and who does not care for him, and he
will die before his marble palace is finished. There are
no prettinessee, flowers, &c., about these fine houses,
perhaps accounted for by the forty or fifty degrees below
zero which they sometimes enjoy at Chicago. After six
miles driving we got to the Piggery, &c., and the least said
about that the better; it is certainly wonderful, but
disgusting — the most interesting parts were the enormous
yards containing cattle, all arranged comfortably, with
hay and water, &c., and the tin-making business for the
preserved meats (the tin all comes from England). Travel-
ling for the last three or four weeks we have seen little
hills of tin boxes perpetually along the line, as the
people in the trains and stations, &c., seem to live almost
entirely on tinned goods. After this we had a hasty

luncheon, and I decided to accompany John and E

here, and not wait for Dick who wanted to staj longer.
We could not find our maids to tell them, and I had to
pack a great deal myself, meaning to leave Gibson to
foUow with the rest, but they turned up at last, and we
had a great scrimmage to get off in the "bus." John
thought we might not have time to check our luggage,
and BO began to seek for tickets to give the maids, but he
could not understand them, so a kind American in the 'bus
explained hem, and after all we were in time, thanks

again to the said American, who passed E and me

to the train, assuring the railway people that he had seen
our tickets, and he also got us into the sleeping car.
When I was thanking him warmly, I added, " You must
be amused to see such distracted English travellers P "
" Well," he answered, " we are as bad in your country till
we are used to it." After a great deal of shaking and
going a great pace round many curves, which quite
prevented us sleeping, we got here (Washington) yes-
terday at six o'clock. A man met us who was sent by
an astronomer friend of John's, and brought us to this
hotel, Wormley's. On our way in a spic and span
omnibus we felt going down on one side, and found a
wheel had come of. We jumped out, and a crowd
collected, and finally we had to transfer our baggage and
ourselves into another omnibus, and got through some hand-
some wide streets, with trees each side and good shops, to
this hotel. Our first view of Washington was a lovely one,
coming in with the Potomac river in front, and the fine
Capitol on a hill, backed by a glorious red sunset, which
reflected all in the river ; it looked like an Italian scene.
This is said to be a " city of magnificent distances," being
planned for future greatness, and very like Paris in con-
ception. We found acquaintances here, and John went

with one to the Observatory. This morning we all went to
the American Episcopal Church, St. John's, rather "high,"
but nothing really objectionable. Thie is the centenary of
the consecration of the first American Bishop, Dr. Siebury,
Bishop of Connecticut, vvho, after having implored our
Bishops in London to consecrate him, went at last to
Scotland, and " there in an upper room received Apostolic
orders from the Scotch Bishops, then called non-jurors."
We were all struck with the lii^ndsome featiu-es of both
men and women in church. In company Avith a great
many others, we remained to Holy Communion, and I
don't think I ever enjoyed it more than among these
brethren — strangers, and separated by the wide Atlantic
from our English Church, but joined to us by "one
Lord, one faith," &c. After luncheon John had a chat
with a French scientist, and Mr. Eutherford and his
handsome son, and General and Mrs. Strachy, and
Professor Adams, the astronomer ; many of these people
are here in concla e about Greenwich time, &e. John

and E are now oOne driving about with his friend.

It is very hot, and poor Hedley is quite knocked down,
but we took a little walk.

Later. — Aft^^r dinner a good many adjourned to the
drawing-room. Captain and Mrs. Ray, the Strachya,
Eutherfords, &c. We ha,d a scientific experiment with
the shadow of the moon. Mr. Eaytold a curious story of a
wasp. He saw it advance slowly to a great spider, which
the wasp apparently completely mesmerised, and then the
wasp carried him off to a little house he had made, and
deposited the spider next an egg, then another egg, and
a gain another spider, till there was a long row alternately,
then the larvre awoke to life, and lived upon the spiders,
who remained fat and well-liking, mA apparently alive
up to that point. Captain Ray says he believes Mr. Scott

is right in saying that the American side will never be
able to give us warning of storms which will be of any
use, for not more than one in ten of their storms reach
us ; our storms come from the North and Mid- Atlantic.
Captain Eay fills +he same post here that Mr. Scott
does in London, meteorological and weather prophet.
Presently a nigger of fine appearance, with a companion,
played the banjo and sung. It was really very pretty,
and we stood at the porch listening, and numbers of
white-robed figures appeared on the opposite side (the
young women so arrayed walk about a good deal these
hot nights), and a little crowd gathered round us. It is
surprising how little music and amusement they seem to
have.

>^eHev ilo. 8

Washm'jUn, Wormley'a Hotel, Monday, 6ih.

The weather has i)een " excoi>tionally " hot, they say,
for the time of year, Hedley quite unnble to do anything.
John went up the Monument, five humued feet, and I went
with Gibson to see the Capitol. The dome looks pretty
from a distance, but the wliole thing strikes me as large,
handsome, uninteresting and vulgar ; we inspected the
Congress Hall and Senate Chafi her. The view from
the terrace was fine. At f o'clock Hedley and I
accompanied Mr. Strachy to Arlington Heights, where there
is a large cemetery for soldiers. It was formerly the country
home of General Robert Lee, the hero of the Confederate
War. It was intensely melancholy to drive through the
graves of eleven thousand and odd soldiers, all killed in the
second battle of Bull's Eun (I believe), two thousand of them

unknown, and buried in one grave, mostly young volunteers
■who had just joined. Each white stone told the story of
the bereaved families, and the destruction of so much
happiness. The view of the Potomac and Washington
is very fine, and one thought sorrowfully of the poor Lees
who gave up their pretty home and all else, for the sake
of Virginia, and in vain !

Tuesday, 7th, — John and E and I went to Mount

Vernon, Washington's residence and tomb. H some-
how missed us, which quite spoilt my day. The air
in the steamer was delightful, and the Potomac is mildly
pretty. We were left at Mount Vernon, and I was
disgusted with the shabbiness and untidiness of the
tomb of the great patriot ; that even in his case such a
want of sentiment and reverence should be shown does
not speak well for his countrymen. I spoke of this to
many people afterwards, and they say it is owing to his
family, who would not allow the tomb to be moved.
In the evening we dined with our Minister, Mr. West, at
the Embassy. It is a fine house, and we enjoyed our
evening. There were only Mr. Johnstone and Mr. Helier
attached to the Legation, besides ourselves. Mis3 West
now presides over her father's house, and is very attractive ;
brought up in a convent in Paris, and speaks English with
a strong accent. Miss West has given me some letters
of introduction to people at Newport. They showed us
some curious beans, which jumped about in an odd way
when held over the light a little while. It is said there
is a worm inside, which is influenced by the warmth.

Wednesday. — We meant to leave to-day, but Dick
turned up unexpectedly from Chicago, and we put off
going to Philadelphia tbat we might start together.
We ^wmt over the White House to-day, where the
President lives, and saw the blue room in which he receives

every one, rather ugly I thouglit it, and the bedroom
in which President Garfield was ill, &c. In the afternoon

John and E went to Baltimore, as he has scientific

acquaintances there, and I don't know when we shall meet
again.

Thureday. — Hedley has just returned from Dick's hotel,
and says he does not go to Philadelphia to-day, so we start
alone at two o'clock. Last night two violent showers of
rain cleared the atmosphere, and it is quite cool and

pleasant this morning. I heard from Mr. B from

Baltimore, and he says he is going to be married on the
15th, and hopes we will go to pay them a visit on the 16th;
however, as the time does not suit, and I don't know his
intended wife, I have declined.

Friday, lOth, Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia.

Last night I had the great pleasure of receiving four

letters — one from you, and one from C and Mary, and

Margaret. We left Dick behind at Washington, but he
arrived last night ; the journey was a pleasant one and
the scenery pretty, especially Chesapeake Bay. I hear
mosquitos swarm at Baltimore and so I am glad we did
not go there. This is a very large hotel and I am on
seventh floor, No. 760 ! Close to me is a fire escape, which
I carefully investigated. We got cheated coming here
from the station, and «o did Dick, to our great triumph !
The country coming here was more English and well
populated than any we have seen. Going up in the lift
who should I find there but Dr. Gladstone, one of our
fellow passengers on the " Parisian ; " we all laughed. Since
I began this a very kind note has come by hand from

Mr. Childs, of the Public Ledger, saying Mrs. C is at

New York, but he will try to get her back on Saturday ;
he is coming to call at a quarter-past two, and offers us
carriages to drive about.

Half-past One. — We have just come back from seeing
the Roman Catholic Cathedral — not much worth seeing
excepting a beautiful picture of our Lord as a Child
among the doctors. We also saw the Academy of Arts,
but there was nothing we cared for. I have had a kind
note from Mrs. James Neilson, who hopes to see us at
New Brunswick, en route for New York.

Sunday, 12th. — Mr. Childs came, a short, stout man,
and very kind; he sent the carriage at three, and we
drove in Fairmount Park, the largest park in the world,
and really very pretty ; saw conservatories and gardens
with bright, but only foliage, plants — wonderful perillas,
altemantheras, tresine, &c. It was a most lovely evening
and we enjoyed the three hours' airing; it was perfectly
clear and still, with sunshine and fresh balmy air.
Yesterday (Saturday) directly after breakfast we went as
by appointment to Mr. Childs' office ; ue has a beautifully
fltted-up room, filled with all kinds of curiosities, — Tom
Moore's harp, Washington's chair, Louis Napoleon's cup
and saucer, splendid clocks of all kinds ; one of them
belonged to Lord Howe, which he had to leia.ve behind
him when he was " obliged to run away from the States
in such a hurry ! " Mr. Childs' seemed to think I must
know all about this, but I am afraid I had quite forgotten
that humiliation. This reminds me of a story I heard
lately of an American lionizing an Englishman about ;
they came within sight of Bunker's Hill, and the American
as delicately and modestly as he could announced : " TJiat,
sir, is Bunker's Hill," the Englishman put up his glass
and looked, and then said : " And who was Bunker, and
what did he do on his hill ? " Imagine the American's
indignation at this gross ignorance ! To return to
Mr. Childs' room ; while there several ladies called, and
among them Mrs. Bloomfield Moore ; she talked well and

we made friends, and she proposed to call for us and take
us a drive, to which we agreed. After she had gone
Mr. Childs told me she was a poetess and a millionaire,
and was supposed to be engaged to Browning the poet.
A man was then told off to escort us over the build-
ing, and a wonderful place it is. All the printing and
editorial work and " job " work so beautifully arranged
and everything in such perfect order. The Public Ledger
prints about 80,000 a day, or rather night, and
Mr. Childs is the proprietor. Almost all the American
news comes to us from his office from a Mr. Cook, who
telegraphs it to the Times. Mr. Cook told me that all the
speeches at the opening of the British Association
meeting at Montreal — Lord Lansdowne's, Sir William
Thomson's, &c., — were telegraphed to London before they
were delivered, John's address had been left in London
before he started. Mr. Cook got the substance of these
speeches beforehand. After this we went to the Electric
Exhibition going on here, and Dick tried an organ ; then

we had a drive with ; she talked all the time

and told me all about her husband and his will, and how
astonished everyone was to find what immense confidence
in her it proved ; she knows Mrs. Capel Cure and Miss
Western, and she has just bought a good house in
London. She is much interested in Mr. Keally (the
inventor of Keally 's motor), and has supported him
through all the incredulity and opposition he has met
with ; she believes he has discovered a new force, and has
just made some experiments before ten or twelve people,
in which without any apparent power of machinery he
produced astonishing results, not electric and not com-
pressed air, or, if the latter, he has found out a way of
producing wonderful power without the usually necessary
accompaniments. This is what / hear ; he says it is a

force in ether, which is a medium separating atoms, but
he will not tell his secret till he has taken out his patents.
Mr. Ghilds sent us some tickets for the opera here, and I

gave Mrs. A. B one, and we ail went, the music

was pretty and singing good. Mr. Bosengarten, a friend
of Mr. Childs, came into the box, and between one of
the acts asked me if I would like to see some typical
American political meetings ? I said " Oh, yes ; " so he
carried me off, and the boys followed, to n. splendid opera
house, which was crammed to the galleries by a very
respectable-looking, quiet audience, listening most atten-
tively to the " Prohibition " candidate, who was shouting
and apparently pleasing them much, i it being behind
him on the platform (they wanted me to go close to him
but I would not), I could not hear the point of his jokes.
Then we went to the Academy of Music, also a very large
place, where a more rowdy lot were listening very quietly,
however, to General Butler. Certainly no meetings of
such size could take place in England with such entire
absence of noise or policemen, or carriages, or cabs. We
went to bed very tired having had so much to interest us
all day. Mr. Childs, by the bye, has sent me a present of
some china and a box full of lovely roses, which I shared

with the sons and Mrs. A. B . I see I have not

mentioned before that I received yours and Mary's letter
of 28th September, which came very soon after my birth-
day. This morning we went to a Presbyterian Church by
mistake, but it was very dull and we soon went out and
went to another close by, which turned out to be
Ritualistic, but at any rate the music, and better still, the
sermon, was very good, — " What think ye of Christ P "
It was all of Him, so no one could object, not even you !
Hedley and I then rushed off to the Lincoln Institution
for Training Indian Girls, where Mr. Bosengarten was to

meet us. It is a very interesting and useful work (the
boys are also under training, but we did not see that part
of the Institution) and the girls look so thriving and
happy, and the teachers say they are above the average in
intelligence ; they sung a chant and hymn and gave me a
photograph to take home. Mr. Eosengarten offered to take
Hedley with him for a drive to see some of his relations,
and so I have been alone since — reading, and writing to
you.

-^•••w — e-

Jeffcr ^0. 9.

October liih. — I sent my last letter to you on Sunday,
and on Monday morning Mr. Childs called and brought
me a note from Mrs. Childs saying she was very unwell
and her doctor said she must be quiet, and would we
defer our visit till Wednesday? I declined this at
once, and Mr. Childs seemed very sorry, but when Dick
joined us he said we were in no great hurry to leave
Philadelphia and might as well stay, so I could only agree
to remain till Thursday. He gave us seats at the Theatre
to hear " May Blossom " (a pretty good play, which we all
enjoyed), and he asked me if I wanted any books to read?
I said " Yes, I should be very glad of some," thinking he
would lend me a few of his own; well, a large parcel
soon arrived with a lovely copy of Longfellow's Poems
and my name in it, and lots of story books, all new. This
morning (Tuesday) our future host at New Brunswick
called, a nice-looking, lively man, and we go to them on
Thursday — Mr. James Neilson. Yesterday afternoon we

spent two hours at Mrs. A. B 's, and met Mr. Keally.

He is a curious person, and looks full of Jire, and I should

say not an impostor, but I should not be surprised if he
was mad! He talked away tremendouslj quickly, and
used all kinds of new words invented to suit his
discovery, and I got quite exhausted trying to under-
stand him; all I could really make out was that he
professed to have decomposed hydrogen, and evolved a
lighter element from it, and that his new force has
something to do with vibration; that he multiplies
vibrations almost infinitely, and can distinguish divisions
of tones in an unusual manner. Those who have seen
his experiments lately, declare that no force with which
scientists are acquainted could produce the same effects
with the machinery used. " If it is a trick," he said, " at
any rate it is a trick worth knowing — if a pint of water
can send a train from this to New York, which it will
do shortly." He employs several people to make his
machinery, but when they have made it and used it
successfully, they declare they don't know why or hoiv it is
done. I am trying to persuade John to stop here on Friday
on his way from Baltimore and see one of his experiments.
I have heard John say that he expected some great
discovery would be made shortly, and in the chemical
direction. Mr. Keally is a mechanist, and says he dis-
covei'ed this force by accident. It is curiously like the
one in Bulwer's novel, which everyone was possessed of

and could destroy anything in a moment. Mrs. A. B

is going to take us a drive this afternoon. At present my
letters to Newport have only produced an invitation to
dine with Mrs. Belmont on Saturday, which we are
unable to accept. Hedley enjoyed his Sunday outing
with Mr. Eosengarten, and was introduced to heaps of
people, and felt quite an important person. He is always
miich liked, and T am not surprised.

Wednesday, Ihth. — At two o'clock we met Mr. Childs

at the station, u-nd v/ent with him to Bryan Maur by rail,
and then his carriage met us and took us to his farm and
stables, &c., and then to his house ; it is all very new and
very tidy and pretty. He told his wife to buy any land
she liked four years ago, and build anything she liked on
it, and now he has paid the bills and handed her the
deeds, and it is all her own. That's the way husbands do
things in America ! The wives and children have a good
time here, and the working classes, too, have many
privileges, or perhaps, I should say, that they share them
with the richer and more educated people ; everywhere,
in the trains and trams and restaurants of stations and
waiting rooms thei-e is equality, and considering all things
one does not suifer much by the mixture, excepting that
they " level down," and one misses the comforts and quiet
of the English railroads. Some of the working men are
remarkably fine and intelligent looking, and always quiet
and well behaved. I do not observe any very great
politeness to women, which I was led to expect was the
prevailing hp,bit in the United States, but I notice that
the fathers are wonderfully gentle and helpful with the
children. Mrs. Childs is a bright little woman, and sings
well, which you would scarcely expect when hearing her
voice in speaking. It is a pity that so many of the
women have such unpleasant voices, and the men have
generally nothing harsh in their tones. A captain of one
of the Cunard steamers sat next mo, and seeing my distress
over a plateful of very large oysters, whispered, " you need
not eat them." We had carefully abstained from luncheon,
as dinner was at four o'clock, and this was the menu for
dinner : soup, big oysters, boiled cod, then devilled crab
(which I ate, and it was very good), then very tough stewed
beef-steak, large blocks of ice-cream, and peaches, and that
was all ! So my dinner consisted of crab, and I was

obliged to tave sometliing to eat on our return to the
hotel. Mr. Childs is very rich, and gives away immensely.
He shewed me a valuable collection of autographs, &c.,
given him by Mrs. S. C. Hall, whose husband, now an old
man I believe, he partly supports. We left at half -past
eight, and this morning, Thursday, 16th, Mr. Childs called
early with his picture, framed, as a present. Sir William

and Lady Thomson, and probably John and E , are

going to the Childs' on Saturday till Monday, and Mrs.

B. M , who called, is very anxious that they should

see the Keally experiments. I hear John and E are

going to Boston. We are starting this afternoon for
Woodlawn, New Brunswick, the Neilsons' place, and
to-day I have an invitation from Mrs. Pruyn of Albany.
We are about to take our berths on board the Cunard
steamer Oregon, which starts on 12th November. I had
a great pleasure this mcming in receiving from Clara
a large photograph of you and Arthur Paley. It is very
nice, and I am very glad she arranged so cleverly for
you to be taken ! You don't look quite so miserable and
cross, as is your ivont in general when being photographed.

Clara and S were at a large evening party lately at

Euston, where they met the Princess Frederica of
Hanover, whom I have met several times at dear Katty
Maude's, and she inquired about us from Clara.

Woodlawn, New Brunswick, October 20th. — We arrived

here Thursday. Mrs. M called and kindly took me

to the station, and presented me with some beautiful
roses, which I brought here unpacked and gave to Mr.

Neilson. Major R. S spoke to me again at the

hotel about the Keally motor, and fervently repeated
that after a thorough inspection of the machinery he
is convinced that a new force is at work. Mr. Neilson
and his carriage met us at the station. He is very lively

and full of information, having travelled a great deal,
and overflowing with " yo." She is very handsome and nice,
and nothing can be kinder than they are. It is a pretty
cottage, close to his mother's house, and with some
grounds round them.

Friday, 17th. — We took a long drive, Mr. Neilson
driving at a rapid pace, and the river and foliage was
pretty, but the scenery here is not remarkable, and the
town of New Brunswick does not look rich or flourishing.
In the evening we went to his mother's, had tea, oysters
and birds, and then a number of people came ; Dr. and
Mrs. Cook, Professor of Chemistry, and Mr. and Mrs.
and Miss Warren, several Carpenters, who are cousins of
the Neilsons, Admiral and Mrs. Admiral Boggs, Dr. and
Mrs. Hart. He is a Dutch clergyman of the Dutch
church here, and has been at John's laboratory at
Cambridge, and talked about him and his work. I
observe the gentlemen stand talking to each other a good
deal as we do in England. Mrs. Neilson mere is a very nice
old lady, with white hair, and something like you. She
spoke about my brother Hedley, and tears came into her
eyes as we talked ; everyone here seems to have read his
memoirs, and I enclose a scrap oat of the New Brunswick
paper, which will show you how he is remembered. Mrs.
T. Neilson seems a capital housekeeper, and the cooking
and everything seems so good and comfortable. Mr,
Neilson oTvns most of the town, and is delighted when
he can sell some of it, and the neighbours are nearly all
his cousins. He says the municipal government of the
town, &c., is at a dead lock. Nothing can be done to the
roads, (which are disgraceful !) or the streets, which are
dreadful everyivhere nearly, that there is perpetual bribery
and corruption, and all owing to univoi'sal suffrage, which
makes the respectable people quite helpless ! This is the
view of all the people I stayed with or spoke to.

On Saturday, 18lh, we made a long excursion to Long
Branch, going by train to Redbank, a pretty village,
whore we got a carriage and drove to Long Branch, a
favourite watering place of this part of the country and
New York ; miles upon miles of the sea coast is covered
with houses, small and large, in every variety of style, with
no trees and quite flat, with a fine sea beyond the sands.
It looked like a scene on a stage ! We passed some very
pretty bays and creeks, but though the day was bright,
the wind blew a gale, and we could not sit about. We
lunched at the railway station, with our driver sitting at the
next table. It is so funny to find everyone at your elbow,
whatever their position may be, but I must say they
behave very well. We returned by train, and I managed
to catch a chill, and have been in bed most of the morning.
The day was so lovely that Mr. Neilson persuaded me to
drive with him in his buggy, a very comfortable carriage
like a tea cart, and I enjoyed the sweet Indian summer
and the pretty foliage with peeps of the river. In the
afteniti(<n I went with Mr. Neilson to call on his mother
and Mrs. Carpenter, both fine old ladies, and as I said
before, old and young women are well taken care of here.

October 22nd. — Hotel Brunswick, Boston. We left the
kind Neilsons yesterday, and as Dick and I were not well,
we took drawing-room car seats, which, however, were
extremely uncomfortable wicker chairs, which turned round
on a pivot with the least movement and made one feel
sick ! So I sat on a hard bench usually occupied by con-
ductors. This is a fine hotel, and John and E came

to see me last night after I was in bed; they seem
enjoying themselves and are gay, seeing lots of scientific
folk at Baltimore and here at Cambridge. They intend
starting home on the 1st. We are arranging for berths
in the " Oregon," on the 12th. Last night I was surprised

to get a letter from Liza, which had been sent to Evelyn,

dated October 5th, telling me that No. 90, G waa

let to Mr. Scott Holland till 8th December! I suppose some
letter from Liza has been lost, for I have never hoard a
word of it before. The road yesterday waa very pretty,
crossing two or three rivers with beautiful colored foliage
on their banks, and some fine towns. I enjoy scenery
more and more as I get older, and feel more one with
Nature, and Nature's God ; the sense of the Eternal and
Infinite deepens in my heart, and the grandeur of sky and
mountain and river with Ood over all fills me with calm and
peace. I am not at all well just now, and have to starve
nearly. It is difficult at hotels to get the right kind of
food when one is out of sorts.

DISTISGUISnED PEOPLK IN TOWN.

To the Editor of the " Home News " .—

It may be of some interest to your readers to know that we
have at present in our midst some distinguished people. Not
indeed because they happen to be people of high rank in their
own country, but because they represent names standing pre-
eminent in the fields of science on the one side of their Louse,
and on the other a name cherished in every household as
the very embodiment of Christian chivalry, that of a veritable
soldier of the cross.

The Dowiiger Lady Rayleigh (mother of Lord Rayleigh, the
President of the British Association), is at present the guest of
Mr. and Mrs. James Neilson, at their residence, Woodlawn. She
is accompanied by her two sons, the Honorables Richard and
Hedley Strntt. The former is married to a dauglitcr of Lord
Bragbrook, a member of the Cornwallis family. The Dowager
Baroness is a sister of Hedley Vicars, the soldier-missionary
of the Crimea, a name as well known and honoured in the
households of America as those of Great Britain.

The party came out to attend tht Scientific Convention of
Canada, and have since travelled largely thruiif^h the great

West. Thoy express themselves ontliusiastically as to our pro-
gress, material as well as intellectual.

We take the occasion to congratulate our English cousins
upon the phenomenally fine season which they have selected,
and trust that they may remain long enough to enjoy the
loveliness of our American autumn and Indian summer. — The
Bnmswtck Daily Home News, Thursday, October IGth, 1884.

II > laflLi < II

Jicttet ilo. 10.

October 25th, Newport, at " Madame Robertson's."

Hedley and I and Gibson came here on Thursday,
just to see the place, of which I had heard so inxxch, and
to acknowledge the offered civilities of some of the people
there. We left Dick at Boston not very well, and indeed,
I have been quite a wretch lately. Wednesday morning,

E brought Professor Pickering, and he asked \ia to

join John and E at his Observatory, and at a party

given afterwards by Mrs. Pickering, so at 3.80 we set
off all in a tram, and Professor Pickering met us about a
mile from the house, and a carriage took us to the Ob-
servatory, where we saw curious things, and above all, the
crescent moon, thrcufifh a powerful telescope, which,
oddly enough, I had never seen before. Mrs. Pickering
had a large gathering, and I was introduced to quantities
of people, some very nice looking and English in tone and
manner. In this part of America one would scarcely
know that you were not living ai...'^ng the present genera-
tion of English transported across the Atlantic quite
recently ; the manners of the coloured servants are very
objectionable, and the porters of the c^irs quite odious ;
they march up and down, even in the more select Pulman
cars, slam the doors, awakening one out of a much needed

doze, and throw themselves down on the chairs and pick
their teeth ! " Dressed in a little brief authority, they stiiit
before High Heaven," and make one wish they had never
been evolved but remained altogether apes. The ivaitem
at hotels are often pleasant enough, but the dislike of the
white Americans to domestic service has given a monopoly
oi this employment to the coloured people, (shared in
many parts by the Irish), and they give themselves airs
accordingly. Dr. Wendel Holmes, of literary celebrity, was
at the Pickerings, and I had a shoi-t, talk with him,
but as every minute some new introdxiction came ofF, I
could never have a pleasant chat with any one. Mrs.
Horsford, who was giving a large evening party, asked us
to go there, and the Pickerings wanted me to stay with
them till the time arrived, but I was not equal to this
exertion, and we three returned in trams, which ought to be
called crams, for they are invariably in that condition. I

was also asked to join John and E with a party going to

a place called Beverly, but I decided to come here, as people
were expecting us, and we arri ved about ten miniites to three,
and I found cards and notes, asking me to lunch and dine,
and drive, and my landlady said the bell had been ring-
ing all the morning, and the whole place was in excite-
ment about our coming and its frequent delays ! I got a
carriage (it was too late to lunch out or drive), and left
some cards and notes of explanation, and as we were leaving
one at Mrs. Belmont's, she drove up in a well appointed
drag, so we got out, and I found her a fair and light little
person, very nice, and wonderfully young looking. She
then drove us in her b<'autiful park phajton to Mrs. Bruen'H,
where there was an afternoon party for my benefit —
such a charming old lady ! I told her I had a mother of
eighty-one, and she said "Oh I am more than that, but
no one knows my age, and I don't think about it, but

am ready when the call comes." I have heard since,
she is past ninety ! She is small and thin, full of life and
interest in everything, and her brains as active as ever, —
seems to have knovrn every one of interest. I went there
again to tea-dinner last evening, and we talked about
everything and everybody under Heaven nearly ! Her
clever daughter and very pretty grand-daughter, Miss
Perkins, have read widely, and our subjects of discussion
were endless. Of course at the afternoon party there were
numbers of people, and they told me they were quite
delighted at my arrival, for the place was very dull now,
and it was quite an excitement ! Liist evening a Professor
Shields was at Mrs. Bruen's, and gave me his book on
" Science and Faith." I have had three invitations to dine
to-day, which of course I had to decline. To go on with
yesterday's journal, we lunched with a Mrs. Bell, and met
there Miss Perkins and another nice young lady, and a
queer specimen, a Mr. "W , who travels about the Con-
tinent with eight children, and aggravated me by saying
he was more at home in France than in England. We had
several made up dishes, chiefly iish, but little I could eat !
Three children came down afterwards and were made very
much of, as usual ; then Mm, Bebnont called for us in her
barouche, and took us a delightful drive b;; ne sea, but
it was very cold, and as I had not brought my only warm
wrap to Newport, I borroAved a seai skin jacket '"rom Mrs.
Bell; I find I have only broug^ ne gow i that T
could have well done without, but , ^Hoald be glad of two
or three more things.

This place is something like Ifi/Je, witV numbers of
villas, which in summer weather have beautiful lawns
and gardens, and are filled with all the smart people from
New York and Boston, &c. ; in the season, they say it is
wonderfully pretty and gay, and the few people remaiui ng

are so sorry T did not see Newport in all its glory, but I
can guess what it would be, and I should dislike the kind
of life they lead and the intense frivolity and absence of
any kind of occupation, excepting dressing and flirtation !
I think the cream had been left behind. This morning
Professor Shields took us a drive to the two Beaches, two
little bays with bathing sands, and then we drove to Miss
Mason, who lives in a very pi'etty villa with her sister, and
is very rich, and we all walked together to the Cliff, where
there is a fashionable promenade, with rocks and sea on
one side and green turf and the villas with their gardens
all open on the other. If any one has a pretty house or
place here it is all exposed to the public gaze, and even
use, a great deal ! We then drove to Mrs. Bruen's, where
Hedley and I lunched. I am surprised to find how
fresh the memory of my brother Hedley still remains in
the minds of people, who I thought would have been too
young to have heard of him at the time of his death, or
too old to remember now what they had heard and read.
Miss Mason and her friend spoke about him with such
real feeling, and said they had been brought up on his
" memoirs." Mrs. Bruen and her family, and Professor
Shields and many others speak to me as if I was quite a
friend, because of my relationship to Hedley ! Isn't this
curioiis after thirty years ? They all asked about Lncij,
and were so romantic as to be rather distressed that she
had ever married ; b\it I told them what a good man her
husband was, and that she was so active and useful, and
that it would have been a great pity if she had been lost
as a wife and mother, &c. Mrs. Bruen, among other
things, spoke of spiritiialism, and said she knew from
personal experience there was iimch trith in it. A rela-
tion and intimate friend was a jiowcrful medium, ami
many extraordinary things, such as moving of furniture,

(beavy chairs and tables, &c.) and raps, &c., took place
under circumstances which made imposition impossible,
there being frequently no one present but Mrs. Bruen and
her two daughters and this lady medium. A table at the
end of the room would suddenly tilt up and rap. A large
dining room table would tilt up, while all the things
arranged for dinner on it would remain immovable — the
lady not touching it. They all seemed to think that
spiritualism had a bad influence, and Mrs. Bruen thinks
bad spirits are at work. She is a wonderful old lady, past
ninety, but full of energy and interest, moving large trees
and making alterations constantly in her house and garden.
She kissed me at parting, and I said " I shall tell my
mother what a charming old lady you are," and she said,
" give her my kind regards, and tell her how glad I was
to see you." Well, at last with many hand-shakes and
all talking at once, we parted, and I met Gibson at the
station, and we returned to Boston yesterday, October
25th. I am now writing to you on Sunday from the
Hotel Brunswick. Last evening Dick was out when
we arrived, with Evelyn at a concert, for which I had
tickets, but I was too tired to go ; this morning we went
to hear Dr. P. Brooks, the great preacher who everyone
was raving about last spring in London, (or was it last
year?) his church is like a great temple, or public hall,
and cost £180,000. Mr. Winthrop gave us his pew, so we
were well placed, and as he is very rapid and not very
loud, the strain to hear his discourse would have been
very great if we had not been near. " In such an hour
as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh." Christ comes
to us in many ways, and through the long ages of the
Old Testament and Christian dispensations he has been
continually shewing Himself, — all great events and promises
have partial fulfilments, — little milleniums Lave taken

pace, and heavenly Jerusaleuia have been raised in many a
church, in many a gathering of God's people, — all fore-
shadowing the Great Event which will bring God to man.
Then he went on about a King Idea, the ruling object in
every profession, in every life; how the best of that idea, —
justice in a lawyer, holiness in a clergyman, and so on, —
was brought home and revealed at times with great power.
The reformations and revivals in the world are the coming
in this sense. He spoke of unconscious love and devotion :
that many a person thinks because they cannot always feel
Christ present and cannot consciously recognize that they
act for Him in their daily life, that they do not love or serve
Him ; they have given themselves to Him, but it seems as if
He was forgotten while their daily work and employ-
ments press Him out. All the time, as with earthly love
and care, the heart is full of Him, and every now and
then strong religious exercises or unusual events excite
the mind ; He comes to it in full power, and then they
recognize their Lord. Some of the sermon struck me as too
abstract, but it was very suggestive ; the music, too, was
beautiful. He is a large stout man with fine well-cut
features and beautiful expression. Coming out we met

John and E and the Pickerings, who had been

elsewhere. I think they are both tired of America, at

least E is, and John wants to get to his work ! I am

not tired of Americans, but I could not live in this
country ; the system political is to me odious, much of the
social system ditto ; and the society is so disunited, so
patchy, so apparently without bonds of union or common
interests, the life they lead so dull and without the charm.i
of society at home, and yet there are many as nice and
clever and good as we can find anywhere. I dare say the
missionary and charitable organizations, aud educational
institiitions, &c., give some interest and occupation to the

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energetic and pious ones, but there cannot be much of
Trhat we call parish work, or care of the poor, though
there are plenty of poor in the large cities, and much
distress as in older countries. Mrs. Bruen gave me
Lowell's discourse on " The Democracy," which he
delivered lately in Birmingham, and asked me for my
candid opinion, without regard to her politics. So I said,
" candid I shall be, and first of all being devoted to my
country's old constitution, the democracy has to me
a very unpleasant sound ; by that I mean the Government
of the many and from helow, and that form of Government
to me is highly objectionable. I think with Carlyle, that
God meant the rulers of the world to be those men best
fitted by their education and occupations and experiences
to cope with the immense difficulties which encompass
good govei' .ment. So you see, I can't agree with much
Lowell says, but some things are very good and I have
ventured to mark them," upon which she handed the
paper to Professor Shields, and told him to read it, and tell
her what I had marked at a future time, as she wanted to go
on talking ! I found Professor Shields quite agreed with
me when discussing the matter next day, but he said, " we
can't help ourselves now, take care you don't get into the
same difficulties." Mrs. Bruen made me give a resum6 of
all the reasons why the Lords opposed the passing of the
Franchise Bill until the Redistribution Bill appeared. I
must stop. We have been to htar Dr. Brooks again, thi£»
time «n-written and not so interesting.

Monday, 27th, — After writing the foregoing yesterday,
we went to dine, and then John called and spent nearly
two hours chatting. They had been to lunch at the
Lowell's (relations of the Minister in England), and leave
to-day at one o'clock for New York, and on the first start
in the Oermanica for England. I think we are all glad

we are not going to Japan, &c., as I have just written to
Mrs. Neilson, " the old country suits my aged inside the
best." I told her I thought the people about New
Branswick and Boston were especially delightfu.'. " After
this," I added, " you will, perhaps, think me impertinent
if I say they seem to me so English ! but after all, you
came from us, and it only shows you have kept the stock
pure, while we have in many cases adopted a spurious
Americanism in our ways and speech." Since I wrote
this, Mrs. Perkins, a married daughter of dear Mrs. Bruen,
and a masterful kind of person, has called on me, and
upon my making some such remark as the foregoing, she
exclaimed, " I don't like Hiat at all ! Before the war we
used to like being taken for English, but now we don't, —
How would you like to be taken for an American ? "
" Well," I replied, " we don't speak of the mother being
like the child ; whether you like it or not you are English
by descent, and are our cousins at least." Dick asked
her afterwards, " What do you wish to be thought? " "An
American, of course." " Please tell me then how you
describe an American ? " We could not get her to do so ;
in fact, nothing pleases the eei-up creatures, for if we
judge of them by the Western or Southern, or even
Central Americans, they exclaim at our injustice, and if
we judge by these New England States, they are indignant
at being thought English ! This, I believe, is only a
pretence, however, and that in their liearta they are fond
of England, and justly proud of the relationship and
likeneiis. Certainly the New Englanders are conceited
and bumptious, and in this also thty keep up their
British characteristics. They want to lose their State
distinctions (which their patriot Washington was so
anxious to guard), and become one great nation, t3n-
tralizing everything, which, indeed, seems the rugo

everywhere. The Democrats are more conservative and
really liberal, and I trust Cleveland will get elected as
President, for there are many independent Republicans
(Boltert, they call them,) who will vote for him, knowing
that Blaine would be a disgrace to their country ; he is a
plausible rogue, and respectable people of all opinions
almost acknowledge it. Mr. and Mrs. Winthrop called (I
have a nice sitting-room now), and we are to drive there
and lunch with them to-morrow. Mrs. Lowell also called,
and gave us the Republican view of things, being a strong
Anti-Democrat ; told us that the Southerners, by argu-
ments of personal /ear, made the negroes vote against the
Republicans, who they would otherwise support, according
to her story. So much, if true, for the freedom of American
voters ! Speaking of sea sickness when crossing the Atlantic,
she said that like (someone else) she thought she should die
the first day, and was afraid she should'nt the second
day. Mr. Baillie Hamilton spoke to us at luncheon
to-day ; he has invented a new kind of organ, and is
perfecting it here, and hopes to make it a good commercial
business in New York, and then go home and marry
Lady Evelyn Campbell. We liked him very much, and
wish him all success. Mr. Perkins called, and we all
went to the Archaeological Museum, which is an enter-
tainment I am unworthy of, as I don't understand Art,
china, or lace, or embroidery, or statuary, and only know
what I like; but Mr. Perkins wasted a great deal of
valuable information upon me. After this, we all walked
to the common with Mr. Hamilton ; he told us that he had
worked for months in a factory at Worcester, near this,
in his shirt sleeves, no man knowing him, and he thinks
highly of the American workmen in these parts. They
are kind and noble under their too independent and rough
exterior, and that is my own impression ; but still I detest

the system which has taught them that respect and
politeness are servile and unmanly, and that doinestic
service is a disgrace. I had the pleasure of receiving
your letter of I6th October this morning, and am so glad
you can use your hand more. I don't think any of your
letters are missing, but, without conceit, mine are of more
value, as those to you are my only journal, and I should
forget so many things if I had not these letters to refer
to on returning home. Now I must finish this. Mr.
Hamilton is talking while I am writing, and we shall see
him at New York on the 3rd, Hotel Brunswick. You
will probably only have one more letter from America. I
am better, but still rather queer.

Wednesday, October 29th, Brunswich Hotel, Boston.

I sent you a letter on Monday, and I will now begin
another, which may be the last from these shores. On
Tuesday, Mrs. Pickering, the wife of the astronomer at
Cambridge, called early "to be of use," but I was engaged
to lunch out with the Winthrops, so we arranged to meet
to-day. Dick went to play the organ at Advent Church,
and was delighted with it, full of ingenious mechanism.
At half -past twelve Hedley and I met him at the station,
and Mr. Perkins met us, and we found Mrs. Winthrop's
carriage at Brooklines. Mr. Perkins is a very accom-
plished man, lived a long time in Germany to study music,
and in Italy to study Art generally. He looks very like
Mr. Henry Sidgwick, and you would never guess he was
an American. The drive through Brooklines was very
pretty ; we saw three large trees of a pure gold colour on

the greenest turf in one place, which had a lovely effect.
The Winthrop's house is not furnished with ocsthotic
taste, but there were some good pictures. Mr. Winthrop
has been married three times, and the present wife was
married before, so there is rather a confusion of families.
Her daughter only lives with them, and is affected with a
sort of St. Vitus's dance, which made it rather trying for
Hedley to take her in to luncheon ; but 1 never saw anyone
who seemed less self-conscious or more at her ease than
this poor girl, and her mother is devoted to her, and
shewed us her picture in great triumph. We hod
Mr. Packman, the historian of Canada, at luncheon,
and Mr. P'-^ ^son, a celebrated architect, formerly a
slaveowner he Southern States, who liberated his

slaves before ,ue war, but was a "rebel," and lost his all,
and had to work for his living. Mr. Packman said he
thought Canada was improving wonderfully, but (as the
English when we were there had told us), the French
element multiplies with extraordinaiy rapidity, and they
are a compact body under the control of their priests, and
so carry all political questions their own way; con-
sequently, but little progress is made in the province of
Quebec. Mr. Packman is a Republican, but is going to
vote for the Democratic candidate, Mr. Cleveland, because
he believes him to be an honest man, and that Blaine
would bring the country into difficulties. I wish some
of our Republicans would come here and learn a lesson of
conscientious independence ! There were some ladies
besides, but I did not make out their names. At last
luncheon was ready, and such a nasty lancheon ! Great
oysters, and raw beef, and dried-up partridges, and the
never failing blocks of ice-cream, which aounda very nice,
but one gets tired of it, especially when it makes one
ill ! However, the mental food was very good, and

Mr. Winthrop, who knows everyone, spoke to mo of
Gladstone. He thinks he " is a man of many words ; he
knows something of everything, and a good deal of some
things," but on the whole he evidently does nol trust his
statemanship. He knew the late Lord Lytton and his wife,
and met her after their quarrel at Roger's, the poet, and
thought her a very fine clever woman, with charms of
manner. Lord Lytton he thought very unpleasant ; very
deaf, and sensitive about it, and would not use his
trumpet. Macauia^ was very ponderous, and had a
Niagara flow of language. He always engrossed all conver-
sation, and one got tired of listening. Mr. Winthrop greatly
enjoyed the coming of age of Lord Cranboume, at Hatfield,
to which he was invited, and he thinks Lord Salisbury's
speaking more interesting than Gladstone's, — that the
House of Lords might make some compromise about
the Redistribution Bill, and that it would be an im-
mense pity for England to lose the three estates of
the realm, and the Established church. " We don't want
you to become a Republic, but keep up the standard
of good government for the rest of the world."
Afterwards we went to Mr. Augustus Lowell's, and
there we found all vehement for Blaine! I did not
agree with their arguments, but listened to all very
meekly and attentively ! They also urged us, as every one
else, not to give in to the idea of universal suffrage, which
is the bane, they say, of politics in this country, and
causes all their difficulties. After tea we drove home five
miles in Mr. Winthrop's carriage ; I lik.) her very much,
and she has more 8oftne$it of manner, being a Southerner,
than the Americans sometimes have. Wednesday we
met Mrs. FicHering at the station, and after a short,
railway journey, drove to the beautiful grounds of
Wellesley College, founded by a rich American, Mr. Durrant,

o 2

100

for girls over sixteen. Three separate buildings, and a
pretty lake, and a very interesting President, Miss Freeman,
about thirty. After seeing the perfect and numerous
arrangements made for the education of the young women,
chemistry-rooms, libraries, statuary, &c., &c., and making
acquaintance with some of the lady professors, we had
luncheon with hundreds of girls ; some of these pay less,
(the regular payment is forty-five dollars or pounds,
I forget which, a year), and have some light work to
do, wait on us, &c. I can't say the luncheon was
good! the beef hard, and I had only bread and jam!
I thought " unless they have a really good breakfast
and dinner, these young women will not be able to
bear the strain on their mental and bodily powers."
After this innocent meal, six young girls, dressed in blue
serge and white costumes, with hats of the shape of under-
graduate's, rowed us in two boats, one painted blue with
light oars, the other white, and the girls rowing it also
in white costumes ; our blue captain was a very pretty
bright girl, just the type one reads of in novels as the
American girl, (but not a lady in the American view, or
our own,) and she chatted away, and led the others in
some pretty songs, while they rested on their oars, and
then we were obliged to huriy away. One of the pro-
fessors told me how clever the captain was, and another
asked me to send six copies of Hedley's Memoirs for the
Sunday Lending Library here, with my name, "which
they should value so much." We returned to Cambridge,
and kind Mrs. Pickering, who is very good looking and
energetic, took us to Harvard College, and we saw the
Memorial Hall, and interesting Gymnasium, where the
young men were practising all kinds of wonderful exercises.
We got home very tired, and at seven o'clock dined with
Mr. and Mrs. Perkins. Mrs. Perkins, like her mother, Mrs.

101

Bruen, has had great experiences in Spiritualism, and
believes it is not good.

Thursday, 30th. — ^At Mrs. Pruyn's, Albany. — We left
Boston about eleven o'clock, and found her carriage and cart
waiting for us at station, and received a most kind
welcome. She is a rather stout woman, of about forty,
who has been very pretty, and has two daughters of
sixteen and eleven, and a stepson who is very delicate.
Mrs. Pruyn is very rich, (everything having been left
to her as usual here), and the house is filled with beautiful
gold and silver-plate, and china and books, and curiosities
of all sorts. She seems very energetic and good in all
relations of life. Some people dined, — her father, Judge
Parker, Mr. and Mrs. Kidd, Mr. Ledgard, of old Dutch
extraction, which is very common here and in the States
generally, and lives in the country Ganzenovia, on the
shores of a lake. His family have been there for genera-
tions.

Friday, ZXat. — We all went to see the Capitol, an
enormous and handsome building not yet completed, but
what I cared for much more, we saw the President, or
rather I should say, the candidate. Governor Cleveland.
He talked with us some minutes, and seemed a simple,
honest kind of man, without vulgarity, but not of society
manners or attractiveness. I wished him success, for
which he thanked me cordially. The poor man is hunted
to death by men and meetings of all sorts. So we. did not
stay long. I caught cold in this hot place, (they do bum
such fearful /it7*nace8 in the houses here), and I could not
go out again.

Saturday. — Remained in bed till four o'clock to-day,
and then got up to tea, Mrs. Pruyn's sister, Mrs. Comey,
such a nice cheerful woman, with a face something like
Lisa's, and Mrs. Evans, with a handsome niece, came to

102

lunch yesterday. Miss Prujm drove Hedley in a nice
pony carriage. At dinner we had General and Mrs.
Mirvan, another sister, and Dr. Holms, Librarian in the
Capitol. This afternoon two presents of flowers came
for me ; they all went to church in the morning, being
All Saints' day. The Evans asked us all to dine, but
Mrs. Pruyn had company at home. Mr. Palmer, son of the
man who sculptured " Faith," so often photographed, and
the clergyman of St. Peter's, Dr. Battershall, who was
very pleasant, and talked nicely of Mr. Eainsford, son of
Mr. Rainsford of Halkin street, who has done wonders
in New York, at St. Greorge's. The American religious
people are far less narrow minded and censorious than we
are ; one sect or party can pee that a great deal of good
and successful work is done by another ! Mrs. Pruyn is
decidedly ritualistic, but she is quite sorry I shall not be
here next ■« oek, to hear Moody and Sankey, who are to
hold meetings. A Miss Lansing dined here, and seems
a very touchy American-loving person, and snubbed tho
boys if they hinted anything here was not perfection.

Sunday, 2nd. — Heard a good sermon from Dr. Batter-
shall, at St. Peter's, on " Seeing Him who is invisible," —
the Apostle's definition of faith. We remained to Holy
Communion. He is evidently fond of ritual, but there
was nothing really objectionable. In the evening we all
went to Judge Parker's, and Mrs. Parker, who had not left
her room for some weeks, camo down to see me, and is a
very nice old lady ; all the daughters and their husbands,
and the widower son, came to heavy tea, a regular
custom in the family — ^then DicL. played, and we sung
hymns.

Monday, 3rd. — Had a delightful drive with Mrs, Pruyn
in the morning, violet mountains (the Caltgills) in
the distance, with brilliant foreground of autumn tinted

103

trees, and golden fields, andabright sun shining on all, made
a pretty picture ; the streets and roads here are very bad,
as generally in America; really one drives over houldera of
stone in some of the streets here, and they say, " it can't
be helped, the municipal corporation have it in their own
hand" ." Oar kind hostess has given me a pretty dusting
brush and a book, &c., and is going to send me a box of
biscuits I liked, for the voyage home. Mrs. Pickering
has sent me a pretty little case, with my initials on it.
We left Albany at twenty minutes to three, and much
enjoyed the scenery on the banks of the Hudson en route to
New York, but it got dark before we came to the prettiest
part, and we did not get settled in this Hotel Brunswick
till past eight o'clock.

Tuesday, ^th. — After a better night I awoke, i>.3ling less
tmcomf ortable, but I have not been at all well lately, and
I suppose that what I want is rest and a different diet.
I found dear Mary's letter, and one from Clara. I shall not
hear any more, I suppose, now, till I meet Edward, &c., at
Ampton Hall, on the 20th inst. We all agree our hearts are
" homeward boimd " now, and the dear old Grandie will,
please God, welcome us back in health and peace. I have
had lots of visitors this morning and afternoon. To-night
we dine with my Philadelphia friend, Mrs. B. Moore.

Later. — We met Monseigneur Capel at dinner, and Major
Becard Seaver, and a Miss Hooker. Crowds all about the
hotel (Fifth Avenue) ; electoral retiums put up in front of
an electric light near it, and cheers as they appeared to
favour one side or another from the dense crowd.
Monseigneur Capel is handsome and agreeable, but he did
not impress me at all as a sincere or saintly person. We
had to make our way home through a great crush, but
there was nothing unpleasant. The Republicans have
had it all their own way for more than twenty years, and

104

hare, of course, become tyrannical and corrupt, so no
wonder the best of them support Cleveland, who is
believed to be honest, and has proved himself capable
and sensible as Governor of New York. The cheering
and groaning went on all night, which was not conducive
to sound slumber. They cheer and groan in unison,
which has a curious effect.

^elUx iJCo. 12.

November 7th, Brunswick Hotel, New York.

I am not sure whether I wrote up my journal to this
date, Wednesday, 6th. On that morning Hedley and I
went by elevated railway to get money from the bank, and
pay for our passages in Cunard boat, the Oregon, on the
12th. After luncheon, Mrs. Belmont called and took Dick
and me a drive in the park, and afterwards to Tiffany's,
the great place for jewellery and such things. Dick went
then to hear Mr. Baillie Hamilton's organ, and Hedley
walked to the Millers, where Mrs. Belmont took us for
an afternoon party they had got up for my benefit. They
live in rather a nice flat, which was crowded with people,
and where I got the most delicious chocolate and cream
and biscuits ! I was introduced to everyone, I think, and
talked politics as much as I could with all the men in
turn ; even the EepuMicans strongly advise our retaining
the House of Lords, and not giving universal suffrage.
There were some nice-looking well-dressed people at this
party, and all so kind and anxious we should be pleased.
I like the Americans ! they are so good au fond, and the
women are superior to the men of the younger generation.

105

After dinner at the hotel, Hedley spied out Mr. Angus,
our host at Montreal, and we had a long chat. The
election is not yet decided, and the Democrats say that
the others are likely to play tricks with the ballot boxes,
and they have certainly delayed electoral returns ; having
commai5d of ballot boxes, railways and telegraphs, they
can easily do this, and if people arrive at thinking, as
some do at home, that a man's conscience ought only to
consider the importance of keeping hia party in power,
and ignore every other consideration, why, what is to stop
these kind of things? If a man's conscience is not to
weigh down the advantages of gain to his party in some
matters, why in others P

Thursday, 6th. — We started as arranged at a quarter to
nine to the Normal School for girls, richly endowed by
some citizen, and entirely free. It was a good walk and we
were not lucky in our trams, and so we arrived rather
late at the large hall. Our friend General Wilson
introduced me to the President, who placed me in hia
chair, and then I saw before me fifteen hundred yoiuig
women. They got up singly and recited interesting
quotations and sung, and then marched out to music in
military order. We went to another hall, and saw them
exercised, and they were healthy and graceful per-
formances. These girls come at nine and stay till two,
and are thoroughly well taught. Little ones, too, are
instructed by the elder girls. It is a capital education
for the frtiire mothers and teachers. I suppose most of
our girls go to service of that class ! We then went to
General Wilson's, and breakfasted on soup, fish, venison
steak, &c. A very agreeable lady, a Southerner, was
there, and as General Wilson is a Bepublican, we argued,
and he found all the party against his views, but he is
used to being crushed, for his wife is a Democrat ! He

106

wanted us to go to see a famous library, but I x:d«, coo
tired, and when he and the boys returned we went home,
and Mr. and Mrs. Neilson were waiting for us at the
hotel. We then started for a very high building near the
river, when we mounted in an elevator, and had a
beautiful view of New York, and could see thp "■ ^id
river and water-way in which it rejoices, but evoi^cuing
is spoilt in America for the sake of the railways, and
steamers, and wharves, and you see no pretty houses near
the river banks in the cities. Brooklyn Bridge is fine, and
I half hoped to cross it and find out Dr. Penticost, but was
finished v/p, and went home to rest. Then visitors came :
Mrs. Gardener, daughter of Bishop Doane, of Albany, very
nice ; then we dined at the Belmont's. The house is
gorgeous in embroidery, and pictures, and statues, and all
in very good taste, and more comfortable than most of
their fine houses. The dinner, too, was very good, and I
was the better for the excellent champagne. Mrs. Belmont
is a wonderful little woman, with thick brown hair, and
looking about forty, and I have seen people look as old at
thirty. He is short and lame, and rather plain, but is
clever and agreeable, and speaks with a strong foreign
accent. Their son, Mr. Percy Belmont, has been elected
three times for Congress. There was a southern lady
there and her husband, Madame HofEman, I think, and
a Miss Wright. Madame Hoffman is very handsome and
lively. The Belmonts apologized for a small party,
because they are in mourning. They keep up mourning
dress and customs tremendously long here. At first I
thought there were a surprising number oi widows going
about, but I discovered they were mourning for their
aunts or grandmothers !

The election was not settled till late last night, and
they say the Republicans are still disputing the returns —

lOV

and they feared riota in New York. I must say they seem
wonderfully quiet, and I slept till he_ past eight this
morning, longer than for weeks past. To-day's papers
opaounce Lord Londonderry's death and Mr. Fawcett's.
How many people one is interested in have died since we
left England in August !

Friday, 9th. — Mr. Baillie Hamilton took Dick and me to
hear his organ "voealian" at a church, it was a walk for me,
and the wind was very cold and strong, church very hot,
and so I caught cold. I should die of some lung complaint
if I remained here long! We started for Long Island
about three, crossing in a ferry and then by rail, and
found on reaching the station that Mr. Jones and Miss
Miller were \mhappy about us, as they could not find us in
the train. Carriages were waiting and we reached
Unqua in twenty minutes. A good sized house (and my
bedroom quite splendid) on a bit of grass land, with
stumpy trees scatte'^od anyhow, opposite and close to
South Oyster Bay, which is divided from the Atlantic by
a narrow strip of sand, back premises in full view, with
chickens and tiu-keys everywhere in full possession ! All
the establishment awaited out arrival, I think, in the hall,
including two smaii waiters come for the auspicious
occasion. Mrs. and Miss Jones (her sister), and a Miss
Jones (niece) with her father who is a widower and lives
there, and Col. Jones a grass widower whose wife lives in
Paris. At dinner I appeared as smart as I could, and I
think made a sensation, judging by the approving looks
and smiles cast upon me ! Nearly all the neighbours are
Jones's or Loyd Jones's, and some of them dined.

Saturday, 8th. — I rested in my room till twelve, and
then in a smart tea gown was seated next Mrs. Jones on a
sofa, and was introduced to each one as they shook hands
with her and with me ; they were nearly all strangers to

108

me, but some sat for a few minutes on my other side and
talked, and some asked us to go and see them, but I was
obliged to decline all hospitalities, as we hare no time for
more. They were not particularly well dressed generally,
nor was I struck by the beauty of the young women.
Mrs. Belmont, who is a leader of fashion in New York,
said, " I hope you won't think this is the beat of New York
society ; " however, I know I have at difiPerent times seen
the heat, and there were many there who represented
la creme de la creme. Sir Bichard Temple was one of
the very few English present, all were very kind and
cordial, and I realy felt quite an important Personage !
almost royalty ! ! The luncheon was a terrific scramble, for
waiting is so bad in America, and I got nothing to eat till
very late, and my head ached horribly — after shaking
hands with four hundred people (three hundred came by
special train from New York), it was not much wonder,
and I retired to lie down at half -past four, when they all
had gone.

Sunday 9th. — I was in bti quite ill till past four, and
then I came down and was petted and nursed. Dick went
back yesterday afternoon, and the last we saw of him was
hanging on to the back of one of the numerous carriages,
which he caught just in time to reach the train. I could
not go out +0 tjea as arranged with some relations, but the
others did excepting Mrs. and Miss Jones. A.t half-past
seven we had supper altogether and champagne, &c.
Nothing could be kinder than everyone.

Monday, 10th. — At two, after luncheon, they sent us to
the station (Mr. Jones, such a good nice man, had gone
early to New York), and Miss Miller accompanied us. On
arriving at the hotel there was Mrs. Bidgelow, a very
cordial lady who had invited us to West Point ; she seized
me and exclaimed, " I am so glad just to have caught you

109

and seen you once more," and she called me " dear,"
sometimes, and begged she might kiss me at parting, and
as she was nice looking I didn't mind! That night being
engaged to go with Mrs. Belmont to the opera, I felt, in
spite of the risk, I must do it. So I went well wrapped up
and sat behind in the beautiful large box, so that I could
cough without at any rate being seen, and I hope did not
much interfere with the enjoyment of Patti by others,
but for myself it was no enjoyment at all. There were
smart and well-dressed people in the opera house, but not
up to our upper " ten thousand " and they talked while
Patti was singing in our box which was close to the
stage.

Tuesday. — Mr. Cleland Bums of the Cunard Company,
an old acquaintance, came to see me with many kind
offers to arrange everything for my comfort, as he and
his daughters were going in the Oregon, and also Mr. W.
Cunard, and his son ; a Mr. Morgan, a banker and friend
of Mrs. Pruyn's, has put off coming unfortunately, for from
all accounts he is much to be liked; he called twice,
and the second time I was able to see him. I remained
quiet, but saw many visitors, and many I was obliged
to decline seeing ; the sons both went out to dine.

Wednesday, 12th. — At half-past ten we started with
baggage for ship, got all on board comfortably, found
one lady in my cabin, and I spoke to Mr. Bums, who
said he would arrange for me after we had started ; lots
of people came to see their friends off. Mr. Neilson,
brought me some beautiful butter for the voyage ! Mrs.
Pruyn telegraphed and sent me the biscuits ; Mr. Hall,
a brother of Mrs. Edlmann, and Mr. Eyre, friends of
Dick's came, and Mr. Carpenter an acquaintance from
New Bnmswick, and Mr. Whitebouse, a literary ac-
quaintance. At six o'clock we started in the fine ship

110

Oregon, in wWch I am now writing. It was a lovely
Indian summer day, clear as we rarely see it in our Islands,
sun shining, and so we saw the splendid Bay of New
York to great advantage, it seemed wonderful to us after
our experience going to Quebec, to see how calm and blue
the great Atlantic could be. Mr. Bums put me into a
cabin to myself near them, but unfortimately it was also
very near the engines, and after two nights, I sneaked
back to my own berth, and put up with a very quiet little
lady in preference ! Mr. Burns placed us at their table,
and I have the benefit of his cheerful company and his
lively daughters, as well as the champagne and good
things he shares with us, and we are a very merry party,
and enjoyed ourselves much, until Friday, when the
weather changed. A Mr. Clinton, a fine looking man of
six feet six inches, son of Lord Charles Clinton, a Mr.
Dickson, a very gentlemanlike nice ex-gi' rdsman, a Mr.
and Mrs. Drake, who are very musical, and he plays the
flute better than anyone I ever heard, all sat near us, but
for two or three days we had the old story, and the waves
beat and rolled us about, and the passengers disappeared
like mice to their holes, and we could not go on deck.

List of Saloon Passengers pbb R. M. S. " Oebgon," (Captain
McMicKAN,) New York to LivKRPOCt, Nov. 12th, 1884.

Miss Appleford

Mr. Julian B. Arnold

Mr. .T. Fred. Ackermaii

- •. oose d'Aranjo

Mr. and Mrs. Edward Austin

Mr. Alex. Aitchinson

Mr. C. D. Armstrong

Key. J. A. Atderaon

Capt. and Mrs. Bogle,

six Children and two Servants
Miss Bogle
Master Bogle
Miss Bodwell
Mr. C. Bayley
Mr. G. Bayley
Mr. Thos. A. Bell

, -' •^■-•■'l - -l ■

Ill

Mr. J. N. Beach
Mr. Arthur A. Brigham
Hon. F. A. K. Bennett
Mr. S. A. Budgett
Mr. J. Cleland Bums
Mias Jean Bums
Miss Grace Burns,

and Maid
Sev. Geo. A. Brown
Mr. B. Bonfort
Miss Martha Bonfort
Mr. J. Barnes
Bev. Edwin M. Bliss
Mr. F. D. Blakeslee
Mr. J, Lomas Bullock
Mr. W. Butter worth
Mrs. Mary E. Bjrme
Mr. John Blair
Eev. John Boylan
Mr. J. Collins
Mr. Stanley Conner
Mr. Aug. T. Chur
Miss Cranston

Mr. and Mrs. Wm. M. Cranston
Mr. J. P. Croal
Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Biusell

Crampton
Miss Florence A. Cordis
Miss Nellie B. Cordis
Mr. L. Crules
Mr. F. M. Crick
Mr. and Mrs. Woodie Cook,

and Son
Mr. John Cholditch
Mr. Pelham Clinton
Mr. John L. Chapman
Mr. Alex. Campbell
Mr. Wm. Cunard
Mr. Ernst H. Cunard
Mr. Geo. Dixon
Mr. John Dixon
Mr. Frank S, Dougherty

Mr. Chas. Algernon Dougherty

Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Drake

Bev. and Mrs. W. E. Daniel

Miss Annie Davis

Mr. Walter Dickinson

Mr. Ed. M. Denny

Mr. Ed. Henry Denny

Mr. Chaa. Edward Denny

Mr. J. H. Douglaa-Willian

Mr. F. J. Douglas-Willian

Miss B. Emmett

Miss Emmett

Miss Lydia F. Emmett

Mr. and Mrs. Bobert Easson,

and two Children
Mr. A. S. Emmet
Mr. Frank Evans
Miss Alice Foster
Miss Emma Foster
Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Fiddian
Bev. M. Flynn
Mr. Chandos-Pole-Gell
Mr. C. Gostenhofer
Mr. G. Greiner
Mr. B. Gebhardt
Bev. Miles Grant
Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Gordon,

and two Children
Mr. Francis Henry
Mrs. H. J. Hastings
Miss Hastings,

and two Maids
Mr. Nigel F. Hatton
Mr. Michael Hughes
Bev. and Mrs. E. F. Hammond
Mr. F. Henriques
Mr. Clarence M. Hyde
Mr. Theodore Haviland
Mr. C. T. Hunter
Mr. F. W. Hutchins
Mr. Henry B. Hoyt
Mr. E. L. Hamilton

112

Mr. John Hall

Mr. W. Howden

Mr. W. E. Jarratt

Mr. Chan. Johnston

Mr. A. do Joumel

Mr. T. O. Joneg

Mme. Marie Joseph -

Mme. Honorat

Mme. Helena

Miss Kenyon

Mr. Adolph Eeitel

Mr. Richard Kihble

Mrs. Kidd

Miss Kidd

Miss B. Kidd

Master Kidd

Mr. Frank Kemp

Mr. and Mrs. A. Ladenburg

Dr. and Mrs. Landis

Mr. W. Liddell

Mr. A. Lindsey

Mr. Edmund Lees

Mr. John Lawrance

Mr. P. Lawrence

Mr. John Leach

Mr. E. Middleton

Dr. "Wm. B. Meany

Mr. O. B. Mackintire

Mr. Archd. A. McDonald

Mr. Ch. Mordaunt

Mr. M. L. Marcus

Mr. and Mrs. W. T. Makellar

Mr. Herbert Mead

Mrs. L. Middleton

Mr. "W. W. Marks

Mr. M. MacLehose

Mr. Paul Meischer

Mr. Alex. McEwen

Miss Mills

Mr. Robt. J. McClure

Sister Eliza Monica

Mr. Francis More

Mr. A. Bishop Mason

Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Nichols,

and Child
Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Noyea
Mr. Jeffreys Owen
Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Peyser
Hon. F. Petre
Mr. Bichd. C. Perkins
Miss Puleston
Mrs. C. B. Paulmier
Miss Nellie Paulmier
Miss Richardson,

and Maid
Mr. and Mrs. E. G. Bideout

and Maid
Mr. and Mrs. J. M. Richardson,

and Maid
Lady Rayleigh,

and Maid
Mr. J. E. Raymond
Mr. J. F. Raymond
Mr. Jno. F. Roy
Captain Hugh Rose
Mr. and Mrs. H. Skerrett Rogers
Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Riches
Miss Marion Riches
Mr. Champion B. Riunell
Mr. W. Seott
Mr. Harmon Spruance
Mr. and Mrs. T. J 'chickle
Mr. Frank W. St- s
Mr. C. F. Schmidt
Mr. Matthew Snoeck
Mr. Philip M. Smith
Mr. O. Streatfeild
Hon. Richd. Strutt
Hon. Hedley V. Strutt
Mr. a. S. Stephen
Rev. Geo. Mure Smith
Mr. I. L. Solomon
Mr. Frank Sartoris
Mr. H. W. Sawyer

118

Mrs. Trielhard

Mil. Martin Thouron,

and two Sons
Mr. H. Trovenen
Mrs. Edwin F. Taylor
'»r. Alfred E. Tregellas
Mrfl. L. J. Trowbridge
Mr. John A. Talk
Mr. A. Taylor
Mr. A. M. Talbot
Mr. Jean Verga
Sister Mary Virginia
Mr. Chas. E. Willoughby
Mr. Oeo. Windeler
Miss Minnie Wilson
Miss Walls
Mr. Wm. Ward

Mr. O. M. Warren
Miss Adelaide Wibon
Mr. Thomas Webb
Mr. C. F. Watson
Mr. Uordon Wendell
Mr. A. H. Willey
Mr. A. Woodthorpo
Mr. A. J. Winn
Mr. and Mrs. T. H. Watrets
Mr. W. A. Webber
Mr. W. D. Webb
Mrs. E. Wolfe,
and Maid
Dr. Will. N. Wilson
Mrs. Emily Woods
Mr. H. R. WUliams
Mr. J. S. Wilson

This morning, Tuesday, 18th, I awoke after a very "dirty "
night, to find the sun shining, and the sea comparatively
calm. Last night we had a concert ; on their requesting
some American to lead off the " Star Spangled Banner,"
a nice looking elderly man, whom we had called G. O. M.,
got up and said " perhaps you may be surprised to hear
that for one American who knows " Star Spangled
Banner," one hundred and fifty know " God Save the
Queen," upon which we cheered him, and stood up and
all lustily sang " God Save the Queen ;" after this
dissipation we added that of an oyster supper and
toddy ! thanks to Mr. Bums. Here is the Programme
of our Concert : —

R.M.S. "OREGON," (Cap^ McMICK^»).

"OEEGONIAN COMPANY."

A GRAND CONCERT

WILL BB GIVEN TO-NIGHT,

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17th, 1884,

IN AID OF THE

LIVERPOOL SEAMEN'S ORPHANAGE.

PATEONE88 :— CLABA LADY RAYLEIGH.
Managbbs:— SIGNOR CUNAEDO & SIGNOR BUENSEASI.

PROGRAMME.

Song "Aald Robin Gray" Prima Donna Dbaki.

Song "For Ever and for Ever" .., Mrs. E. Wolm.

Song "Sailing" ... Mr. J. B, Willoughbt.

Solo Flute Herr Dkaki.

Song Miss Pulbston.

Song Mr. Ohansos-Polx-Gell.

Mr. Bbighiman, A.B.

...Prima Donna Dbaki.

...Mr. J. Swanston Wilson.

Song

Song (FIduO Obligato, Herr Drake)

SONO

Stab Spangled Banner ^
OoD Save the Queen )

Accompanist Hon. RICHARD STRUTT.

... The COHFANT.

AMERICAN MONEY WILL BE TAKEN.
OAPTT^GES MAY BE ORDERED FOR 9.30 P.M.

lis

My cabin is opposite Dick and Hedley's, and the
latter has great jokes about my treatment of my
small lady companion ! He says she is frightened
to death of me, and is afraid to come into the cabin
until I am safe in my berth ! My love for the sea
ha 3 leceived a severe check, though I think no other
dea ca : be as bad and uninteresting as this tremendous
Atlantic ! I have not an idea where you are, but hope it
is at Margaret's, and I shall send this there, as the best
chance of your receiving it soon. I shall post this at
Queeustown, when Dick will also telegraph to Augusta at
Ampton, and he has asked her to let you know of
our safety as far as that. The Americans have been singing
in choruses while I have been writing, practising for a
concert.

Tuesday, 18th, eight o'clock p.m. — I hear we shall get
to Queenstown to-morrow morning, about ten o'clock. I
have a game of whist coming on, and there is to be an
Amurican concert, "Star Spangled Banner," and all.
Miss Caleston, who I have chaperoned in the Oregon from
M^o^ Y- rk, is to be left at Queenstown.

: U "dday, 19th, Queenstown. — The coast has been so
/i(\, of course, quite smooth, compared to what we
have lf>'\ accustomed to of late. I got up early, and saw
all the sacks of letters, six hundred, from all parts of the
world, carried on men's backs to the tugs on either side
of the Oregon, and we parted with Miss Puleston and
some others, and now I must stop as this is going to be
posted. We expect to be at Liverpool some time to-night,
and shall leave at once for Ampton, where I look forward
to seeing so many of my dear ones. Dick and I agree
that our happiest days have been the day we reached
Quebec, and the day we left New York, both glorious in
weather and scenerv !

■:}

pie

.<-'-,

116

Olven me hy Mr. Auqdsj hdr, American, of New York, of
German descent, November 18th, 1884, on " Oregon."

Mir country, 'tis of thee,
Sweet land of liberty,

Of thee I Bing;
Land where my Fathers died.
Land of the Pilgrims' pride,
From every mountain side

Let Freedom ring.

My native country thee,
Land of the noble free.

Thy name I love;
I love thy rocks and rills.
Thy woods and templed hills.
My heurt with rapture thrills

Like that above.

Oar Father, God, to Thee,
Author of Liberty,

Thy name we sing.
Long may our land be bright
With Freedom's holy light,
Protect us by Thy might

Great God our King.

117

November 19th. — I posted my letter to you at Queens-
town. We had a very pleasant day on deck, and while
playing some innocent whist in the evening, Mr. Bums
announced, " We have arrived at Liverpool ! " It seemed
so wonderful ! We remained at anchor after a very slow,
careful steaming up the river, and it was pretty to watch
the lights and the dim outlines as we passed by.

20th. — ^After a tremendous bustle at Custom House,
where our boxes were all opened, but mine only juat
unfastened, Dick and I started in the train across coimtry
for Suffolk. We wished a hearty good-bye to our fellow-
passengers. It was sad to see poor Mrs. Bogle standing
with her seven children among her great deal boxes,
screwed down (for she had only time on leaving Barbadoes
to pack hurriedly), and then to look at the Custom House
officials opening them all — thanks to the dynamite people,
who make this precaution necessary. I must confess I
thoroughly enjoyed our quiet smooth journey. All the
time we had a carriage, to ourselves (Hedley remained
at Liverpool to visit the Woods at Birkenhead), and we
only changed twice, having our luncheon comfortably in
a basket en route, and reached Ingham about seven
o'clock, where the carriage was waiting, and found dear
Edward, Lisa, Augusta, and Bosa Paley at Ampton ;
Clara and Jack had been staying out, but returned
after dinner when- they heard of our arrival. It
was so delightful to be among so many dear ones
again, and oh ! the luxury of a large comfortable bed,
and how thoroughly I enjoyed it, and the quiet and
beauty of Ampton altogether ! I hear you are expected
in London to-morrow. I never lost anything during my
whole journey, excepting two things, which were left
behind in our railway car at Winnipeg, owing to that
horrid cook hiding them ; but on this journey from

118

Liverpool, my emerald ring, set with diamonds, must
have slipped off my finger, and could not be found,
though I telegraphed, &c., at once ; this is an un-
pleasant episode.

P. 8. to my Diary. — I spent a fortnight of complete rest
and quiet at Ampton with dear Clara, &c., and was imder
medical care most of the time with a bad cough and
derangement of liver ; notwithstanding, it was a happy,
peaceful time, and I little thought it was my last visit to
that dear old house !

On Saturday, Srd January, soon after my return from
Weston, when I had been visiting Lady Camperdowu,
the three sisters Beatrice, Clara and Eosa arrived to tell
me that the whole house, excepting the study and kitchen
rooms, was burnt to a shell that morning at three o'clock !
A large children's party had been given Friday evening,
and many people had scarcely left at one o'clock, and Clara
was not in bed till half -past one o'clock. The fire broke
out at a quarter to three o'clock, was discovered by a maid
visitor, and nearly everyone had to leave their bedrooms
with only the clothes on their backs, and for some time
Clara and Jack, &c., had not time to think of putting
more on, though it was bitterly cold. Thank God, no one
was hurt, and as the fire spread rapidly, and the cold was
very great, there was great cause for thankfulness.
Everyone worked well and showed presence of mind,
with one or two exceptions, and Clara and Jack were
calm and active throiighotit, but it was a dreadful blow.

119

and I felt quite knocked dovm, and did not recover for
some time.

On Wednesday, ilst January, I accompanied Clara and
Arthur, and Miss MacCormack to Barton, where Jack
joined us from Ampton.

On Thursday we drove over there, and I had the
melanf.holj satisfaction of seeing the ruins, and trying
to find something for Bosa, who had lost everything;
alas ! witiiout success.

Whltahnd, Uorrii k Iiowe, Printan, 9, Fenohnrch Street, E.O,