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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. y errata Id to nt ne pelure, i9on d \ « 2 3 32X t 2 3 4 5 6 tltl TRAVELS THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, IN THE YEARS 1806 % 1807, and 1809> 1810, 4^ 1811 y INCtUDINO AiV ACCOUNT or PASSAGES BETWIXT AMERICA i BRITAm, AKD TKATIU THBOVOR VAUOVI rAETt or Britain, Iteiatitr, antr Canafta. WITH CORRBCTIOKS AMD IMPR0VXMIKT8 TILL 1815. I I. J3Y JOHN MELISH, WITB AN APFENDIX» AOXTAINIMO A LITTER VROM CI.IMBMTS BURLEIGH, UQ. TO lEUH SHiaSAim KDOmKa TO AMmCA, AKD HINTS, BY THB SBAMROC BOCIXTY, NBW-YORK, ^■ ^i PhUaddpfna s prinUd Jbr the Author* /Belfast: BEPRINTED BY J. SMYTH, S4, BIQB-STRBBT. JAiy 1.1818. / / v L ^ .1 y 'f A n ''f J !siJ'vf'- ■'. ■'?<> ■'.!?/■;,• (i„{li'/'f ? r. I If ♦••« T» '■" *:•. ,,^ \ ),:;;; .(i-^ X A 1:'";:^!-^ . ii<^» ■i . : , n .i 1 •> 'M tiy -J n ,\n i s M r 1 - : »■ T III ' Tijir''"" ,^n • ■ ^ % '^.' .t.^'.'nfit ■j>i[b>ruu^i.i\')4: PREFACE. '^-j'-» '"' •■•' " ''*^«t The journtkl of a titivelter, when jiidiciouil y compiled^ pretcnU i living picMre of the state of the country tbrougn which he pas- ses; while the interest that is excited by the narrative gratifies the fancy, and combines to render this at onee an entertaining^ and instructive species of reading. Hence we find that books of tra« vels have of late multiplied to a great extent, and are always in demand with the public. The field is inexhaustible^ and must continue so while society b in a progressive state. No country presents a more amjue field for in^iry than the United States of Amerite ; and it is equally in^portant, whether We view it in regstrd to the inhabitairts of America or of Bri- tain. The former find theniselVes in possesion of an imnicnse territory, a great pArt of which is still unoccupied, or very thin- ly inhabited, so that there is riiom for the industry of thousands of fenerations yet unborn ; and as if by the special order of Provi- ence, mankind are invited into the most distant regions of the country, by the advantages of soil and climate, no where exceed- ed in the world. Sprung from the only country which, at the pe- riod of the settlement of America, possessed any thing like ration- al freedom, the principles of the popular branch of th0 British con- stitution came into practical operation, unalloyed by the feudal system. These principles have since been matured into the full developement of the representative system, and are now consoli- dated and confirmed in the habits and manners of the people ; conferring a degree of freedom on mankind, vinknown in Eu- rope, ana securing to industry the reward ef its n^erit,— peace and plenty. Hence the progress of population, of agriculture, of ma- nufactures, of the arts and sciences, and of civilization, have been rapid beyond all former example. The contemplation of the sub< ject is animating to the mind ; it inspires confiaence in the future destinies of the world, and calls forth sentiments of gratitude to the supreme Disposer of all events. The inhabitants of Britain behold in America a people sprung mostly trom the same ancestors with themselves ; tiicy speak the same language, they have the same manners and habits, and they ' are in a considerahilc degree governed by the same laws. Their surplus commodities, and their demand tor British manufactures, have for a long period induced an exchange highly favourable to Britain. From these circumstances, a native of Britain finds him- self at home in America; and thousands ofindustriout families, who ^: .1 )^! 1* ■, -^^A,- n PKEFACB. 'i 1. i. hare met with nn hospttable reception and a happy asylum in the land, can bear ample testimony to the value of it. The two na- tions are indeed formed to be mutually beneficial to each other ; and though Providence, for wise reasons, no doubt, has allowed the con- nection to be cut oil' for the present, yet it is to be hoped it will be again revived to mutual advantage : for there is one link in the chain — the identity of language, which never can be dissolved. To the inhabitants of other countries Amei'ica is also important, as it holds out the right hand of fellowship to all nations, unincum- bered by entangling alliances with any ; and thoughhnany who vi- sit the country ior commerce or permanent settlement will necessa- rily tor a time labour under some disadvantages, arising from a dif- ferent language and other local circumstances, yet they will find an hospitable reception, and an enjoyment of perfect freedom and security. When, in consequence of having formed a commercial connection in the United States, in the year 1806, it became necessary for me to visit that country, I bad no intention of publishing my travels, nor did I think that my observations would have been sufficiently extensive or interesting to be laid before the public. But many circumstances have concurred to render them more important than I had originally imagined ; and a second journey to the country led to an investigation, the result of which I now consider worthy of publication. The following brief review will illustrate my motives and design ; and it is with much deference submitted to a candid public. rib Iwftii I: ' -(({vl -: 'TjJ "tf .if^ In the year 1798 I made a voyage to the West Indies^ during which I laid the foundation of a series of studies on geography, asti'onomy, natural philosophy, and chemistry, connected with na- vigation, and the tueory of winds, tides, iTnd currents, in the At- lantic Ocean. Mv voyage to America afforded an ample opportu- nity for resuming these studies, which 1 did not fail to take arlvantagc of, and I accordingly kept a journal. After landing in America I continued my journal ; and circumstances having occurred which rendered it necessary to make a more extended tour, and to reside longer in the counti^ than I originally intended, I iisetl every dili- gence in my power in making observations, and committing them to writing. Mv tour was rapid ; but my mode of procuring infor- mation was such as I trust will render even that part of my journal not uninteresting, particularly to those engaged in commerce. Previous to leaving Britain I had perused all the " Travels in A- merica" to which I had access; but the plan of none of them pleas- ed me, and I found many of them to contain such effusions of igno- rance and spleen, thatl came to the resolution to discoid the whole, and to take for the basis of my intormatioii the best map and ga- zetteer of the United States 1 could procure, and these were my constant companions in my travels through the country. Wljexi I TC PRBFACK. trrived in a new state, I examined it in the map and gazetteer ; and the information darned from these I confirmed or corrected by personal observation, and information from those to whom I had access. I obsei'vcd the like course with regard to every dustrict, town, village, lake, or river which I passed or saw ; and having com- ■utted the result to paper, in the shortest manner posHJble, 1 com- piled my journal from these note.^ at my leisure. In this manner I travelled through part of Giurgiu, South Carolina, New York, v, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New Jersey, Pennsyl- vania, Delaware, Maryland, District of Columbia, Virginia, and North Carolina ; so that I hud occasion to see and make obiiervn- tipns on ail the Atlantic states, including the principal cities, rivers, bays, &c on tiie eastern coasL Next year I returned to Britain, where I followed up my plan of making mcmoraudums, principally by noticing the nature of the American trade, and the manufactures in Britain calculated for America. The commercial pursuits in which I had been engaged having been interrupted, I returned to America in the year 1809, in or- der to re-organize the business, or to wind it up ; and, having oc- casion to travel extensively through the interior of Georgiit, 1 ex- tended my remarks, and Ibund an opinion forced upon rni*, that should the restrictions on commerce be of long duration, America would become a manufacturing country, and consequently would be in a great measure independent of Europe. That opinion re- ceived strength and confirmation during a residence in New York in 1810, where I was fruitlessly employed in looking out for mer- cantile employment. i, In the early pari of the year 1811, having observed u regency in ( •'• Britain without a change of rouncils, or the removal of^ the re* - ' strictions on commerce, I considered that the commercial relations : between America and Britain would not be speedily re«iiinK(i, and considered it nece^ary to look out fur other employment. In search of this I came to the resolution of niakini; a tour into the interior of the country, and being assisted by some kind friends, I was en- abled to procure such a stock of valuable io-ormation, thut I now ' thought it would be of importance to colic ' ^u'lteriaK with a view ' . ' to the publication of my whole travels, an»: to conduct my in- ' ii^^i quiries, in my proposed lour, accordingly. f lliis tour was performed to my entire satisfaction, and the re- I ,. suit of my inquiries appeared so important that the publicatioA wiis determined on, provided tiie plan met public approbation^ With a view of a^cerL'^ining that point, a prospectus was issued, and a subscription list promoted, the result of which has exceeded V' < - my most sanguine expectation ; for though 1 was 'able to take th» i ,'( ; Sense of but a small portion of the community comparatively, I obf ,', ^, ' i : ' ' t:)ine(i a very lar^^e and most respectable list of subscribers. • V' ' Encouraged by this honourable patronage, 1 have eudeaTOured ,' to improve upon my original plan^ and have udd^ a gredt Tarietjr " i \ • H ■I !' - r- I J J (■ ▼I MBMCI. i ■ \ «f mnttcr not contemplated in the otttHneSf ttu|l th« wo'i^k mislit embody a complete geof^niphy of tke United iTtatea. Thit fa tili^ lint attempt that hai come under my oboertatlon to incorbM»t« 4 geographical description of' a country in a journal oftrateK and I hope it will not be without iti Use to the public That it might h4 a* complete aa powible, I have noticed even those states and tenfto* vies tliat I did not travel throush, selecting those parts of the narra- tive for their introduction that I thought would be most appfvpriat^. In the description of the eastern states the population is given by (he census of 1800, because that of 1810 was not taken whch I trai* veiled through them; but the statistical table and census of the United States introduced into the work, present a view of the po- pulation to the latter period, and I have occasionally added notes at son^e of the cities. At the close of the work I have added an alpha* hetical index, which will serve in some respects the place 6{ a gazetteer. In short, no pains nor ezpence has been spared to render the work worthy or public patronage; and with a view of ntaking it ucceptable to the whole pubUc, 1 have avoided all notice of local politics, except sometinies a mere casual observation, not calculat-^ ed to r^ect on any p«rty. On the relations between this country and Britain I have been compelled to be more pointed. The kite conduct of those who administer the affairs of Engbmd has not been of a nature mer«ly speculative. It has invdved a moral prin- ciple, and iiiFccted the best interests of the huipan race. Thecon^ duct adopted towards the United States influenced my owii prc^ eeedings in a verv considerable degree. In conducting my narra- tive, it was absolutely necessary to notice it; and X have done so agreeably to what I consider the rulies of truth. Many of my readers may differ with me in opinion on this subject: to such I have merely to rcn^ark, that I have hazarded no opinion lightly, nor without due examination. My information has been drawn from the most correct sources, both in Britain and America. I have never been connected with any political party, and I am con- scious of beinff free from any bias, out a sacred regard for trutH aud justice. Still, however, errors mav have escaped me: lam open to conviction ; and it they are pomted out, it will give me sincere pleasure to correct them. To my numerous and very respectable subscribers, and thoa^ Sntlemen who favoured me with information, I beg leave to Te- rn my most sincere thanks for their encouragement and assistance ; and my thanks are due to the American public generally, for the kind attention with which I have been treated during my exten- sive travels through the country. On the other hand, I trust this work will be found not altoge- ther uuwortliy of public attention. Independent of the casual in- fi>rmatioH collected while I was engaged in other pursuits, it has been the result of inceiisant labour, of both body and mind, for near- ly two years, in which I haveluid«veiy aidthatbook3,maps, charts, :ti nifAct. VII •nd votImI infiNrmation could give mc. If it it found dcfectiTe, I hvre no pl« but «Bt of capacity ; I kave done my best. At the fiMts have been collected with great caret lo they nave been cotn- municftad with a ktrict adheraiwe to truth, ana with n view of pro|iK4ing tiM bait intemte of napkiod. bv a unoere friend, who nas po motive for decaifing than. With these observations I con- ii|ai the work to the tribunal of the public, and I shall bow with sttomisaion to their decree. JOHN MEUSH. Philadelphia, October 12, 1812. . POSTSCRIPT. The distinguished approbation which this #ork has received,'* and the probwility that there will be an increased demand for it in conseouence ot the peace which has happily been established between Britain and Americar hat induced the author cnrefuUy to revise it, to correct inaccuracies. Philadelphia, March, 1815. ^, * Xatraet sf • loUrfnim Mr. Jeffn X h»v« iwd your TVmvda with atrtinc MdActioii and infonnadea At to the ' UKVk ttatct, pvticultfljr, it bu grwitly cdifl«d im ; for of the actual condition of that intemting portian of the country I had not an adequate idea. I fbel Byaelf now aa>.. familiar with it, aa with the conmtion of the maritime itatei. ■% The caadour with which you have viewed the manners and condition of our dtiicm^ ia M unlika the narrow pntjudicea of the Frenrti and Engliih travellers preceding you, who^ considering each the manners and haUls of their own people aft the only oitho- doi, have viewM every thing diflhring from that text as boorlih and barharons; that your work will be read here extensively, and operate great good Jbctnut Jnm tkt Fori Fotio, Here is s kind of phenomenon. Two wholevolumes of Travels in America without any mirterial errors; with no palpaUe fUaehoods ; no malignant abuse of individuals ; no pdtnr calumnies en the institutions of the United States.— The author b a plain praetieal man, whose observations are diiefly valuable on account of the stamp of truth and simpliciqr which they bear, and who has examined the United States aa many others are inteiaated in regarding it, as a safe asylum fur those who are about to form flither commercial or agricultural establishmeati. He u obviously a shrewd and sensi^ . ble observer, and tfiere is a clearness in his perceptions, and an accuracy in his details, ' which is very satitftctocy. This work contains a number of highly interesting and curious statistical papers, which add much to its value. m A'.- fefc^«7 hm. ■ *M-*-'-t :\^.**^ ftt» »MP(p^»*«i,\'r»,-' '. 'IK^ "» Mt ^f .',1 INTRODUCTION. I. SHALL comnioncc my introductory remorki by a iliort lU- scrustion of th« City of Olaigow. GUuw)w is tituatcd on the north side of the river Clyde, At the head ofthe tide water. It is 400 miles from London, 42 from Edinburgh, and 32 from Greenock, which may be considered us its port. It is the second city in Scotland, and contained, by the enumeration of 1801, 77,885 inhabitants. Th« city ii regularly built, and the houses, being all of free-stone, havu a very de- f,ant appearance. The public buildings are numerous, ana many of them splendid ; among which may oe reckoned the cathedraf, the Infirmary, and the College buildings j which las^ tliouf^ old and antiquated, are spacious, and the Institution Is esteemed one of the finest seminaries of educaticm in Britain. iTho inanufac* tures of Glasgow bare arisen to great extent and perfectidn, par- ticularly those of cotton. The prindpal articles of manufacture calculated for the United States are^ fancy muslins (a sort of sta- ple commodity,) printed calicoes, ginghams, shirtmgs, hoiiery, threads, tapes, earthen and glass ware, ironware, ^c. Glasgow is also a market for disposing of the manufactures of the ouier parts of Scotland, partlculany of Dundee, Perth, and Fifeshlrc, such as sail-cloth, cotton baggina, oinaburgs, cotton and lineft checks, and tick»— of Dunfermniie, table tlbtbs, sheetings at)d towelings—of Stirling and Kilmarnock, carpeting, gloves, &c. The returns from America consist principally of cotton, of which Glasgow manufiictures above 10,000 bales annually. Having served an ample apprenticeship to business in one of the principal manufacturing houseii in Glasgow, I resolved, in the Deginning of the year 1806, to commence business on my own account. I hud long studied the trade to the United States of America, ftnd was well aware^ of its importance to both countries ( but the constant jealousies which had existed between them, dur- inff Mr. Pitt's administration, induced me to decline embarking in It. Towards the close of the year 1805, n change of counsels took place ia Britain, and at the head of the new ministry was that great and enlightened statesman, Charles James Fox. From the known sentiments of Mr. Fox, for justice and moderation, I calculated that every thing would be amicably arranged between the two governments, for i never hod any doubt as to the just and pacific policy of the United States. I trusted in a lasting iricndbhip between the two countries, and in a great and increas- ing commerce ; and I accordingly embarked in it with all the ajraovr of commercial cnterprize; selecting for my branch the 2 ^ 1'' '• i (I'd M ^> ♦ ■ -'r X JNTlioDUCTION. trade to Savannah, in Georgia, in which it appeared there was a good openin •» * Advice id those about to undertake a Sea Voyage, "When you intend to take a long voyage, endeavour to have your whole b'.'tsiness transacted, so as you may have a few days to spend with your friends, and to attend to the little necessaries that may be requisite on the voyage, previous to your departure. It is not always in a person's power to choose a captain, al- though a good deal of the comfort of the passage depends upon this choice. The chief reqiiif>ites are, that he be a good seaman ; attentive, careful, and active in the management of his vessel: and of these circumstances, and indeed all others relative to the pas- sage, you must satisfy yourself before setting out, for there is no use in making complaints at sea. It is slill more difficult to make choice uf sociable fellow-passengers. A ship is like a stage- coach, it must accommodate all comers ; and one surly fellow may molest a whole ship's company. But a person, by having resour- ces of his own, may make hunself, in a great measure mdepen- dent of other people, and it will be well, before going on board, to take measures to accomplish that desirable object. For this pur« pose, a small library of books will be found viery entertaining, and if you have any turn for the 'study of mathematics and draw- ing, you will have a good opportunity to practise on board ; and a case of mathematicul instruments, and a box of paints, will be necessary. The greater part of the carrying trade between Britain and America is performed in American vessels, and a cabin passage m one of these vessels is generally very agreeable. The expence, includiug every thing, is from 30 to 40 ^ineas. There are vari- ous modes of laying in provisions. One is for the captain to pro- vide every thing ; another is to provide every thing, except li- quors ; and a third is tor the passengers to iumi^h every thing, at their joint ex pence. If the captain be a judicious man, there >Vill generally be a good supply, in either case. But it may not be amiss, for those who can afford it, to have a private assort- ment of good tea and cordials; should they not have occassion to use them themselves, they may have an opportunity of serving •ome poor stoerage passeng^. . . ?^" .*"♦'-■ > lljrTRODUOTION. Zl Ther»M generally a medicine cheat on board, but it is some- times not in very good order ; and it will be advisable to bore a few simple medicines of your own, such as rhubarb* cream of tar- tar, ana Peruvian bark ; and a few dozens of soda water will be found a very agreeable beverage. When a. family undertake a sea voyage, they have generally their own servant; and if they are numerous, they will find it most comfortable and most economical to engage a state-rootn, and lay in their own stores. For the information of such, I ;shall h^re subjpin a list of the most esseqtja^ articles. I .They, are entitle to t}ie chip's provisions : biscuit, salt beeC pork, pease, &c.-^In. ftdditjon, they will require meal, barley, flour, po- tatp^s, pigs, i^uQkik v^wi^t port«r, wiiie, and spirits. Beef, nut- t^, and loaf bread wiU ke^ fresh «^ht pr ten days at sea, and it should be always laid in, as it proves not only a considerable saving to the fresh stock, but is generally more grateAil to the stomach at tiiat period than any other food. The expence of a steerage passage is about twelve ^piineas, and the passengers are «ititled to the whole ship's provisions betbre enumerated; but to make themselves comfortable, it will be pro- per to add a little stock of. tea, sugar, -liquors, barley, and, oat meal. It is generally necessary, both in the cabin and steerage, for the passengers to furnish their own bedding. I may take oc- casion here to remark, . that this practice is an imprc^r on^. . V^seU whi9h(jarc^jcaiU»|latedi to carry passengers, should be pro- vided with bedding, particularly in the cabin births. ,They are furnishtd at no great es^pence^ and one jict would serve many passage^ so th^t, the expence, during one passage, would be trifling: whereas* by the present practice, each pa^enger is sub^ jected to a considerable expence, besides tlic trouble ck purchas- ing his bedding, aqd pf selling it again at the close of^^e passage. A few general remarks, to be attended to while at sea, shall conclude mis article. A short time after setting sail, the passengers generally get eea sick. This complaint, though lightly esteemed, because not dan- gerous, is often very severe while it lasts, and, if treated impro- perly, it may cause a relaxation of the stomach, that will be very troublesome. While the sickness continues, people have an aversion of all kinds of food and drink. Many abstain from both, three or four days. This is a bad plan. The stomach should ' never be allowed to get entirely empty. A little chicken broth or water gruel should oe freely used ; and people should go upon deck as soon as possible. Breathing the foul air of the cabin or steerage promotes the disease ; whereas exercise and free air on deck relieve it. A little soda water will at this time be very ex« hilarating ; and as soon as the stomach is so far cleansed as to Aeep free front retching, a little Peruvian bark will be very beneficial as a restorative. Care should be taken to guard against costive- ness, a very troublesome complaint at sea. Attention to diet and II HJ xu INTROOUCTIOV. ,\lv / cxerciwwill often prevent it; but where that fails, a little laxa- tive medicine, such at rhubarb^ eream of tartar, or costor oil, siKwld b« resorted to. When the. tl^eether {« good, people shbult^ rise early. The air of the cabin is not only affected bv the respiration or the passen- gers, hut it is often contaminated by the ml|^ water ; while the tica air on deck is alwaye pure and healthy. The breakfast hour at sea is 8 o'clock, dinner, 1, and supper 6 or 7. * It is a general rule amongst the passengens to have themselves washed ana dress- ed before Httina^down to brenkfbst. Betwixt breakfast and dinner, the time may be nrofitabl}^4^inployed in walking, reading, draw- ing, flee; and sucli BS have 'a taste for navi|te(ion will have a good opportunity for practical impr6vementj as Uiey can have access to OM Iog<»book ; and iSht captdn -and mates are generally very obll^- iiw, in iMding their navi|^ic>n books and instrunlentJB to those who wish them. '^•^ aMnn i. ^» vn iii*il«. s h Temperance at table ii» necMsary e*erv where, and espeeialfy^^t sea, where the exerdise .j neoessarilv limited. Where wine is 'tued^ throe or four ghuHcswitt generally be found more beneficial than ft larger quantity > nnd people ^uglit, on no account, to in- dulge themselves at the table a whole afternoon, though it is (re- cin^tly dpne. It is much better to take exercise in the open air on diick.. '•'>-« J" •■ ■ in Aie^eveningj the company frequently amuse themselves at • curds, IsDckgammon, &o. ; these, when resorted to for amusement Anly^^are rational and innoo^t enough; but when the play it for nio*iey,' they ought to be avoided, 1 may add, that, generally speaking, peopli^s hamiiness is very milch in their own power. A suavity of manners, and an obliffin*- -Jy civil deportment is calculated to secure the esteem of mankind; luid when tilings are not exactly as we would wish them to be, it will add to-our own comfort to take them as we find them. •tift -uUjHiH i;7ijisMi it . ' . «»'J' ttiv/ Siifh ,«b' 1-. (mil' ■ • ^jii »«tf.: i^BUiii^ 9i4i ^ ^* .... TABLE OF CONTENTS. v:r ■■)*; i.Mf ■,> : Y-. Preface. ImporUnce or books of tinvels; Importance of the United Sutcft; Motires and design of publication ; Voyage to the West Indies, and studies connected witliit; Continued in a voyage to America ; Mode of procuring infoimation; Change of circumstances \ Tour to the western country ; Explanation of the plan ; General remarks. INTRODUCTION, page 9. Description of Glasgow} Change of councils in Britain ; Probability of a lasting peace with America ; Prepare to embark for that coantry ; Advice to those about to undertake a sea voyage ; Cabin passage ; Single passengers, families ; Steerage passage ; General remarks to be attended to at sea. CHAPTER I. p. S5. Depart firom Glasgow ; Paisley : Extensive view; River ' Clyde ; Greenock ; Conllguration of the country ; Frequent rains on the west coast ; Anecdote; Passengers; Sul from Greenock; Firth of Clyde; Arran; Ailsa Craig; '"Mutt of t!antyi^; Atlantic ocean ; A fair wind; A gale; Headwinds; Bennudas; Oiilf stream; American «oast; Savannah river. CHAPTER II. p. 51. General remarks ; Occupations M sea ; Winds in the At- lantie ; Trade winds ; Variable winds ; Gulf stream ; Banks of Newfoundland ; \i- lands of ice ; Courses across the Atlantic at different seasons. CHAPTER III. p. 35. Reflections in Savannah ; Description of the d^; Trade; Country in its vicinity; Articles of commerce; Exports and imports; Savannah riyer. CHAPTER IV. p. 38. Journey up the country; Roads; Creeks; An inn; Rer n«ins of a burnt negro ; Sultry weather; Taverns; Domestic manufactures; Pine barrens ; Remarks on health ; Construction of cities ; Draining ; Effects of oxygen ; A mcthodist church; Reflections on camp meetings; Baptists; Waynesboraugl) ; Mills and machineiy ; Arrive at Louisville. CHAPTER V. p. 45, Description of Louisville ; a fever ; An experiment ; Kind- ness of Dr. Powell; State-house: New purchase: Lottery of public lands; Reflec- tions thereon ; Anniversary of independence ; A toast ; Amwican character ; Leave Louisville ; Richmond' springs ; A poet ; Set out for Augusta. CHAPTER VI. p. 50. Augusta; Country round it; Cross Savannah river; North Carolina ; Hospitality of the planters ; A country store j Re-cross Savannah river; Signs of a storm ; Remarkable electric spaik; Arrive in Savannah; Plrepare to go New York. CHAPTER Vn. p. 53. Passage to New York ; A fair wind; Gulf stnami A severe gale ; A calm; Clear weather ; High lands of Neversink ; Sandy Hookt ^ng Island; Staten Island ; Narrows; Quarantine grouiUI ; Bay and islands; Iftrsddl^f.; 2few YorL ^ ■■^i '*■.».-* ""^ssatsss XIV CONTENTS. ■ it ' . • ■n 4.' il r." CHAPTER VIII. p. 56 Description of New York ; Ribb'c buildings; Marketi; Schools; Trade; Police; Politics: Firess; Parties; Thomas Paine; Yellow fever; Table of the weather. CHAPTER IX. p. 63. Journey to the New England states ; {Unt river; Hell- gate ; Long Island sound , Elegant views ; ^ courtship ; Race ; Narraganset buy ; Newport; Finevitwa; Beautiful female ; Another eourtsbip'; Providence; Geogrm- phical arrangement CHAPTER X. p. 69. Rhode Island; Situation: Extent; Area; Face of the country ; Minerals ; Soil ; Climate ; Settlement and progress ; Civil divisions and po- pulation; Improvements; Towns; Roads; Bridges; Agriculture and produce; Manufactures ; Commerce ; State of society ; Government. CHAPTER XI. p. 71. A disappointment; Effects of it; Retaliation; Lett* Providence; Rule. for swearing; Patucket river; Cotton manufactures: Refla^tiAmi and calculations on the cotton trade ; Massacbusscts ; Dedliara ; beautiful prospects ; Boston neck ; Boston. CHAPTER XII. p. 77. Description of Boston; Public buildings; Markets; Commerce ; Manufactures ; Banks ; Societies ; Character of the inhabitants ; State- bouse ; Fine view ; Bridges ; Jaunt to Salem ; Charleston ; Bunker's Hill ; Mystic river ; Swamp and floating bridge ; Lynn ; Expensive turnpike ; Salem ; 'Wharves and shipping ; Reflections ; Return to Boston. CHAPTER XIII. p. 82. New Himipshire; Situation ; Extent ; Area ; Face of the country; Mountains ; Lakes ; Rivers; Minerak; Soil; Climate; Settlement and progress ; civil divisions and pq|)ulation ; Improvements ; Towns ; Roads ; Bridges ; Agriculture and produce ; Manufactures; Commerce; State of society; Government* CHAPTER XIV. p. 85. Vermont; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of thecova- try ; Mountidns ; Rivers ; Minerals ; Soil ; Climatf ; Settlenoent and progress ; Civil divisions and population ; Improvements ; Towns ; Agriculture and produce; Manu- ikcturcs; Commerce; State of society ; Government CHAPTER XV. p: 57. Leave Boston; MaU stage; Company; Cambridge; General remarks; Weston; Beautiful country girl; Worcester; Brookfield; West- em; A contrast; Cheerful company ; Handsome girls; Jealousy; Springfield; Con- necticut river ; Suflield. CHAPTER XVI. p. 92. Massachussets ; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of the country; Waters ; Minerals ; Soil and agriculture: Climate: Settlement and progress ; Civil divisions and population : Improvements : Towns : Roods : Bridges : Manufac- tures: Commerce: State of society : Religion: Literature: Education: Government: Dutrict of Maine : Settlement : Population : Improvements : Towns : Soil : Com- merce : State of society : Climate. CHAPTER XVIL p. 96. Windsor: Hartford: Additional company: Odd no- tions: Handsome girls : Fruit: Wallingford: Church built by the produce of onions : Blooming girls : Elegant country : Fine views ; New Haven : Millford : Housato- nic river : Stamford. CHAPTERXVIILp. 98. Connecticut: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of the country: Hilts; Rivers: Minerals: Soil: Climate: Settlement and progress: Civil divisions and population : Improvements: Towns: Roads: Agriculture and produce: Manufactures : Commerce : State of society : Education : Government CHAPTER XIX. p. 102. Yankee dialect : Horseneck: Anecdote: Rye: York Island : New York : Thomas Paine : An essay. CHAPTER XX. p. .104. New York: Situation: Extent; Area; Face of the couutry : mcnt and villages: merce: CHAPI Jersey : t \^ CONTENTS. XV couutrjr : MounUuv : Lakes : Riven : Minenb : Springs : Soil : Ciimate : iiettle* mcnt and progrcas : Civil divisions and population : Improvements : Cities, towno, and villages: Roads: Bridges: Canab: Agriculture and produce : Maitufacturet : &•»» mcrce : State of society : Government : State fundsi ^ CHAPTER XXI. p. 109. Leave New York: Intelligence of tbo Mage driven t Jersey: Bergen : A swamp : HackenMck river : Fassaic river: Newarii: Eliaabcth* town: Woodbridge: Rariton river: Brunswick: Kingston: Frincetoo: A com*,, mencement Ball: Music and dancing ; Trenton. CHAPTER XXIL p. 113. New Jers«y> Situation: Estent: Area: Face of the country; Minerals: Soil: Climate: Settlemfot and progress : Civil divisions and population: Improvements: Towns: Roads: Bridges: Projected canal : Agriculture and produce : Manufactures : Commerce : Education : Government. CHAPTER XXIIL p. 114. Trenton bridge: Delaware river: Residence of general Moreau : Reflections: America coippared with Europe : Bristol: Frankfrud: Philadelphia. ^^ CHAPTER XXIV. p. 116. DeacripUun of Philadelphia: Plan: Population: Buildings : Public buildings : State-house : Markets; Manufactures : Trade ; State of society : Education : Societies : Police : Remarks thereon. CHAPTER XXV. p. 18a Floating bridge : Water-works : Remarks on filtration; State prison : Library : Remarks on libraries : Peole's museum : Schuylkill bridge ; Jaunt to the country : A flax spinning mill : Falls of Schuylkill : poUtioa* CHAPTER XXVI. p*! 129. Pennsylvania: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of the country: Mountains: Riven: Minerals: SoU: Climate: Settlement and pro- gress: Civil divisiona and population: Improvements: Cities and towns: Roads: Bridges: Canals : Agriculture and produce: Manufactures: Commerce: State of society : Government CHAPTER XXVIL p. 134. Land and water stages : Delaware river : Country on its banks : Newcastle : Low marshy lands. CHAPTER XX VIIL p. 135. Delawafe: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of the country: Riven: Minends: Soil: Climate: $ettlen*ept and progress: Civil di« visions and population : Improvements: Towns: Agriculture -and produce: Manu- factures : Commerce : Schools : Constitution and government CHAPTER XXIX. p. 137. Elk river: Chesapeak ba;:: Extensive view: Sus- quehannah river : Arrive at Baltimore : Numerous company : Meet some old fellow- travellers : Market : Madame Jerome Bonaparte and child t Coffee-house : Library : Ship-yards : Agreeable company : Description uf Baltimore : Public buildings : Ma- nufactures: Commerce: Education: Banks: Police. CHAPTER XXX. p. 140. Maryland: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of tlie country : Mountains : Chesapeak bay : Rivers : Minerals : Soil : Climate : Settlement and progress : Civil divisions and population : Improvements : Cities and towns : A- griculture and produce : Manufactures : Couun«t.-e : Education \ Government ,^< CHAPTER XXXL p. 143. Leave Baltimore: Patapsco cteek; Bladensburg ; Washington; Capitol; Capitol hill; Superb view. CHAPTER XXXIL p. 145. Washington; Treasury; Post-office; Capitol; Barracks; Remariu on the army; Navy-yard; Georgetown; Potomac river; Road laid out by congress. \ CHAPTER XXXIIL p. 148. Wait on Mr. Jefferson ; Conversation; NoUceof American cummerclal citiuii; (liinate and Season; Epidemic sickness ; YcUuwftver; :*l I' I "^^.. ■ <*<* XVI cfMmii^ Paine'* enqr ; JRoads ; tntenuil Inprovemontt ; MattufdotiirM ; ^timenti rektire to Mr. Pox. CHAPTER XXXIV. p. 152. District of ColumtMa; Extent; Sitaation; Face of the country ; Soil ; Climate ; Divisions ; Improvements ; Description of Washing- ton city : Flan i Buildings ; Public buildings ; MaikMs ; Afanufactures ; State of sn- ciety ; Police ; General remarlcs on British and Freneh influence ; Ptabability of ah amicable adjustment of th« dlflTcrences with Britain; Alexandria. CHAPTER XXXV. p. 157. LeaV* Alexandria; Occoquhan creek; AgreMtile company ; A republic ; Songs and stories ; Dumfries ; Frederiduburg ; Rqipahan- nock river ; Mattapsny river; Paaiunky river) Yorii river; York ; Hanover court- house; Richmond; James river; Wavigation; Canal; Appamattox river; Petersburg; Agreeable company ; NottaWay river ; Meherrin river. CHAPTER XXXVI. p. 164. ^^Inia; JeiTersoa's Notes; Boundaries; Extent; Area; Face of the country ; Mountains; Riv«n; Passage cf the Potomac through the Mountains; Cascades; Caves; Blowing cave; Natural bridge; Minerals; Soil; Clinmte; Settlement and progress { Civil divisioiu aitd popidatioa; Towns; Roads; Navigation; Architecture; Aigriculture and produdi; Manufactures ; Commerce ; State of society ; Colleges; Education; Religion; Oovemtoent; Extracts from Mr. Jeffienon's Notes; On government; On thb fanporlatidn of foreigners; On manufac- tures, agriculture, and commerce. CHAPTER XXXVII. p. 183. Rdcntfko river; Warrenton; Tar river ; Nuse river; Raldgfa; Dismal counuy ; Black riv«r; Cape Fear; I^yetteville ; Lumber- ton ; An accident ; Swim the horses and stnge. CHAPTER XXXVIII. p. 187. North Carolina; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of the country; Mountains; Rivers; Minerals f Soil; Climate; Setttemcnt and progress; Civil divisions and populations; Improvements; Towns; Roads; Agricul- ture and produce : Manuftctures and commerce ; Statt of society ; Goviernment CHAPTER XXXIX. p. 190. Flat country; Bad rMds; Methodist church; Swimming creek; Little Pedee river; Altercation n-ith the driver; Re6dy creek; Maple swamp ; Great Pedec river ; A breakfhst ; Lyncbe's creek ; BliidUnihgo creek ; Wilton; An agreeable Iri^man ; Fhvcr and ague ; A dinner; Black river; An old friend; Georgetown; Culture ofricv; A causeway; Santee river; View cf the At- lantic ocean ; Arrive at Charleston. CHAPTER XL. p. 196. A ))OliticIan; A fever ; SudJjn change of weaUier; Dcseriplion of Charle>ton. CHAPITER XLI. p. 19?. South Citrulina ; Situation; Extent; Area; Pace of the country; Hiils; Kivors; Minerals; Soil; Ciimutc ; Settlement and pn>gress ; ' Civil divisions and population; tniprovenii'nts; Towns; Agriculture and produce; jVlanufactures ; Commerce; Stale of society; Education; Government CHAPTER XLII. p. SOI. Passage to Savannah by sea; 1>bee light-heuse; Savannah; Death and character of a friend; Hard labour; Flattering prospects; A new connection; Prepare to embark for Europe. CHAPTER XLIII. p.206. Georgia; Situation; Extent; Area; F^u» of the country; Mountains; Rivers; Soil and Climate; Settlement and progmss; Civil divisions and populaUgn ; Towns ; Agricultare and produce ; Education ; Reflection* Mu that subject ; Religion ; Government. CHAPTER XLIV. p. 210. Embark for Europe; Fellow passengers ; Detained in the river ; A fine breeze ; Fast sailiag ; A sloop of war ; A frigate ; Sea diver^ns ; Cape Clear ; An |ri«h pilot boat ; Cove of Cork ; Tuscar ; Skcrrics-light ; Liverpool ..>-■.' . — ■. CONTENTS. Vfj^ji_. pilot bout { Hwd winds ; A gale ; HoyU lake ; A cavalcade ; An ignorant guide | Arrive in LiverpooL g CHAPTEH XLV. p. 814. Cliange of cuunciln in Britain ; nrobabl« effect on tbe Aiaerican relations ; New political doctrines; Conwnercialarraogeniiunt; Information _ as t« the late election ; Political discussions ; Chairing the members ; Political motives; An intelligent Liverpool firevinun. CHAPTER XL VI. p. 217. Set out for Glasgow ; Ormskirk ; Preston ; Lancas- ter; Converaatiun witli a Lendon merchant; Kendal; Shap feUs; Geese gnuing; Feuritb; Thriving farms; Carlisle; Manufactures; Longton; Scotland; Extcitsive view ; Gretuu green ; Laws of marriage in Scotland ; llough road ; Locfcerby ; Mofi'at; Cold weather ; Sources of the Clyde ; Scottish dialect ; Hamilton ; Glasgow. . CHAPTER XLVIL p. 221. Journey to England; Preston; Manchester; Li- verpool; Warrington; Frescott; Cilcad hall; Commercial arrangements; Manches- ter; Antiquity; Extent; Manufactures; Improved steam engine; Cotton mills; Ma-{ nufaotures for Auterica; Bary ; Rochdale; Halifax; Leeds; Northallerton; Durham: River Wear; Extensive views ; Reflections; Newcastle coal trade; Mor- peth ; Alnwick ; Magnificent Castle ; German ocean ; Berwick ; Dunbar ; Elejaut view; Edinburgh; Singular situation ; Artliur's seat ; Salisbury Craigs; Castle; Cal- tonhill; Lofty houses; New town; Elegant buildings ; Bridges; Leitb; Adjacent country ; Courts of Law ; Nobility aiid gentry of Scotlaiul ; Education ; State of so- ciety ;, Rapid travelling; Arrive at Glasgow. ^ CHAPTER XLVIII. p. 22fi. Plans of the new ministry ; Expedition to Den- mark ; Orders in council ; Consequences ; Journey to the east country ; Cumbernauld ; Forth and Clyde canal ; Stirling j I^uuibkne; River Ern; Crieff; Methven Pariab ; Face of tite country; River Almond; Soil; Heritors; Population; Occupations; Farms; Minister; Stccdeis; Schoolinaster ; System of education; Church; Baptism; iSeccdcr church ; Calvinism ; Pronuscuous dancing ; Scottish Music and dancing i Perth ; Manufactures ; Fisheries ; Education ; Return to Glasgow. . CHAPTER XLIX. p. 234. Another, journey to the east country ; Edinbur^ ; Firth of Forth ; Kinghorn ; Kirkaldy ; Cufftr ; A garrulous plasterer ; Fine view ; Firth of Tny; Dundee; Aughtcrmouchty ; Falkland Palao^: Lomond hills: Mine- rals : Edinburgh : Ghisgow. CHAPTER L. IX 236. EffccU of tlie orders m council : Jaunt to Edinburgh : C^ehration of Mr. Fox's birth-day : Toasts: Lord Melville : Death of Sir John Moore: Cold weather: Return to Glasgow. ,. ^ ^ . ,,. CHAPTER LL p. 238. Journey to Ireland: Kihmamock: Ayr: Dismal^night: Gii;van: LochRjrani: Port Patrick: Violent weather : Head winds: A gale: .Re- turn tp port.: A fair wind : Irclapd : Belfast : Hillsborough i Banbridge : Dundriim liay : A shipwreck: ^ewty : A debate: Banbridge: Droroore: HiUsborough ;. Lis- bum : Belfast : Return to Newry : Humorous i^ostler : Newcastle: An Irish family ; Whist parties : Anecdotes ; Irish linen trade : Brazil trade : Friends from Belfast :.* Baliynaliinch : Medicinal springs : Hospitality of an oU Irishwoman : Counsellor Trotter, la^ Mr. Fox's private secretary. CHAPTER . LII. p. 248. Prepare to leave Ireknd : Downpatrick : Strangford : Ai^ming rapid tide : Fortaferry: Donagha>lce: Reflections on leaving Ireland : Port Patrick : Very distant view : West const of Scotland : Bums' birth-place : Ayr : Glasgow. CHAPTER LIII. p. 250. Orders in council withdrawn : Conduct of the «hip^ ping intery#t : Paper blockade : Views in political economy : Prepare to embark i«C 'I K ■ ■■If ■,.■• ,, ,, - ;lrt*-.»' .♦WJ--*^" "•»-lir .,., . < ■ ■ .; V &V1I1 CONTSMTS. ,1' >U- America: Edinburgh: Dundee: Curlisle: Manchester: Leedi: Sbadleld: Nottlag liainr London: Vauxhuil gardens: Singular occurrence*. CHAFFER LI v.}). '254. Leave London: Oxford :, Birr.iingham t Mineralogy « Shrcwiibiny : Chester : Liverpool : Reflections on the situation of England and Ainelica' CHAPTER LV. p. 25«. Engage a passage for America bjr tha T»Mc t Fnian- gcrh: Adiicmma: Irish bciatmeut Facific sails: Cape Clear: Hand windai Ship runa out of the breeze : Banks of Newfoundland : Gulf stream t Lunar abaerrations : Sandy "Hook > Information from the pilot : Quarantine ground : Airive in New Ynk. CHAPTER LVL p. S60. Journey to Philadelphia t ConmMvdal discuaions t Ncgotiodou with Biitoin broke off: Pasi,agc to Savannah : Efiteta rf the stoppaga Of the foreign trade. CH APTER LVIL p. 263. Journey up the country: Louisville: Upper oobntry t Ogeeche river : S^Nirta : Domestic manufactures : Grecnihurg t Oconee river : • Appa> lachy river ; New purcLase ; Mount Vernon ; Madison ; Creensburg ; An akm { In^ quiry whether the blacks can organize a plot to destroy tfae white people in the aoutham states ; \%'ashiiigton ; Ray's mills } A manufactory ; Columbia C^nnt-bouae ; Aiigasta| ^n bid friend ; Ridiraond springs ; Waynesbonugh j Oreat revolution in cpmmene ; Cotton manufactories ; Probable consequences of the c o mmercial revolutioo. CHAPT0RLVIII.p.S68. Passage to Charleston ; A fever: Sullivan's Island Passage to New York ; Head winds ; A gale ; A fkir wind : Arrive in New York CclebraUon of the anniversary of independence; Long island ; Jamaica ; Fine view Newton; Fruit; Journey to Philadelphia; A merry party; A bloody nose; Aneocen- ' trie preacher; A sleeping lit; Loss of two hats; Rettim by the steam-boat ; Staten Island; Quarantine ground ; Agreeable parties ; Importance of temperance in religiou* and political discussions, and of avoiding personal abuse. CHAPTER LIX.'ti. 272. Residence in New York ; Negodations ; Political views ; Pcogress of American manufactures i All hope of a beneficial trade with Britain at an end. CH A PTE R LX. p. 27 9. Reflections on agriculture ; Flan of publishing traveb ; Projected tour to the western country : Set out for Philadelphia; General infonnatien : Great increase of the city : Society of artists : Institution for engraving bank-notes: Set •ut for Washington: Delaware river : Newcastle: Frenchtown: Baltimore : Wasbingtaiu CHAPTER LXl. p. '266. Interview with the secretary of the treastuy : Fkdimi- uary inquiries beftirc setting out on a tour to the western conntry : Wait on Mr. Madi- son; Conversation on various topics: Washington city : Baltimore: Havre*de-Once : Susqaefaannab river: Phihidelphin : New York. CHAPTER LXIL p. £(/!. Long Island ; Route of Travels : Inqtiires to be made daring the journey > Leave New York: Steam-boat: Ibrtifications : States Island t Kills: Newark bay: Elizabethtewn point r Amboy : Fisheries: Rariton river: BruUs- wfck: Princeton: 'IVe:iton; Overturn of the stage : Bordentown: Fin»view: Del- awtire river: Bristol: Burlington: Point-no-point: Philadelphia. CHAPTER LXIILp.S95. Pittsburg stage : Fine horses: Budc tavern: Ridi valley: Downingstown : Gap hill: Braiuiywine creek: Rich country: Lancaster: Klizubethtown: Conewa^o hills : Middletou : Banks of the Susquehannah : Harris but]gli : Civss the buiiquehannah : Carlisle : View of tluc mouutuins : Shippenabnrg : Chamb^raburg. CHAPTEULXIV. p. :2«9. General iufurraation ; Chambersburg : Limestone valley : Fellow traTellcr* : Extensive view : Curious petrifaction : Conecocbeague ei'vLk : Aiiceud the Noitb mountains: Mode of passing; waggoihs: An old hag; A ^ " CONTENTS. ^ ' ^ ^tX CeniMn hmilj ; Elegantly fwrkgatad vi«w ; M'ConmlitowB ; Hualing ; Scrub hill ; SidUng hill ; SubUow vitw ; Junction at nmd* ; lUjr's hill ; Juniau river ; romantic banks ; Chain bridge ; Sjngulw eurioaitj ; Bloody run ; Hot water war ; Bedford ; Bedford apringii CHAPTER LXV.i). 304. A Pittd)ui9 companjr; Valuable millH; Allegany mounlaina; Tavern on the top; Sublime views; Reflections; Temperate clbnatc; Homenet ; RepuUive hmdlord ; Qbligiug postnuMer ; Oenecal infonnation ; Anee« dotes ; laurel hill ; Chesnut ridge. CHAPTER LXVI. p, 509. Western country ; Salt spring; Coalmine; Grecnii- hiirg; Turtle creek; A wonderful tree; Qraddock's defeat ; A beautiAil female ; General remarks on the mountains ; Reptiles ; Increase of sheep and wool ; On the use of spirituous liquors ; Prejudice; Eipence of travelling ; Inapurtaoee ofaturu. pike road. CHAPTER I«XVI][. p. .714. Pittsburg; Buildings; Population; Public build- ings ; Manufactures ; Professiuns ; Price of labour ; Vulue of manufactures ; Ex- ports ; Manufactures that might be eiitnbliiibed ; Expence of Jiving, roinparod with the price of labonr ; State of wcicty ; Female education ; Alonongnhola and Allegany rivers t Industry of the inhiibitnuts ; Grant'!* hill; Glass-works; Potteries ; i}teauvboat ; An ecclesiastical trial ; Reflections on religluus freedom, . „,, CHAPTER LXVIII. p. 520. Journey to Hanuoiiy ; Cross the Alle^ny river ; llough road ; PUins ; Remarks on the country ; Harmony ; Origin and progress of the society ; Innkeeper ; Doctor ; Mr. Rupp ; Sliecp and Uieplierds ; Manufactures ; Tradesmen; Dog blowing the bellows; Graiiarie:.; Orchard; Brewhouse; Store- houses; La)>yrinth; Botanic garden ; Divine service; Band pf music; Watchmen: Vineyards; Mills and machinery ; Fertile valiey; A village; Brick-works; Bupal ground ; Anecdote ; Bee-hives ; Domestic economy ; Religion ; Education ; Mora- lity; Stock and future prospects of the society ; Farewell addrettn; Zeliouople ; Re- turn to Pittsburg ; General remarks. CHAPTER LXIX. p. 534. Prepare to descend the Ohio ; Diflorent craft upon - it: An original genius; A skitfand prpvisions; Ohio river; Thick fog; A ripple; /»' JLossofab^m; EffecU of a flood; A company of Indians; Beaver; An Indian Jioatman ; Love of whiskey; Georgetown; A dinner f Steubenville ; iitedlK>nvilIe district. CH AP TER LXX. p. 339. Handsome plantation and peach orchard ; Getieral in- formation ; Charleston ; A spiritual explanation ; AVheeling ; Reflecti9ns on slavery ; Carrying slaves to market ; A drunken f lulian ; General informatkm ; Long r^ch : Fine views; A peach orchard ; A wonderful fall discovered by Mr. Ashe; Marietta. CHAPTER LXXL p. 344. Marietta; Commerce; Steam-null building ; Pro- ba|>le increase of manufadurea ; Fine views; Indian mound*; Navigation of the Chiio and Muskingum ; Ohio compauy's purchase ; Marietta district. CHAPTER L3(XIL p. 349. Keel boats ; Rough company; BlannerhaswsU'a island; Burr's conspiracy; Reflections tlioreon; Bellepre; A contrast; Efiects dt ' industry-; A humpursoinecharapter; A floatipg-mill ; Iri«li emigrants; An anecdote; A musician; Letait's falls j Head winds; Kanhaway river; Poiut pleasant; Gai- liepoUs. CHAPTER LXXlILp.35S. Whimsical account of the country; Leave Gal- ■ ^iopolis; Cotton manufactures; Account of the early settlers ; A numerous family ; ^ . A pulitfcian ; Big Sandy creek; Hospitable new married couple; A thriving i'amily i French grant ; Sciota river ; Portsmouth^ Alexandria ; Iret^ of (•streordinary size V ? 'I J ! If k ;V^w!''' >A UK. tOKTRNTfi. li'» imdbmity; M«mhc*ter; LimMtom; Augusta | General information] A hoi|iiUi« Mr Sciittntm ; AMml broic ; Shantrewn | Poetiy ; Muiic ; CincinnatL •^'> CHAPTER LXXIV. p. Sfil. Cincinnati; ManufWctum and mechanics; Pm- vision*; Maanera and morals ; Symmcs' purcliase ; Cincinnati district } Newport | Elegant farm and vineyard ; Captain Bnen ; General information. - CHAPTER LXXV. p. .145. Take capuin Baen passenger; Deacend the Mver : Wretched tavern ; Captain Brown ; A mammoth bone; Kstraordinaiy orchard; Great Miami; Big-bone-licic creek ; Accountof the mnmmotli; Wander in the wsods; Captain Hawcs' ; A dilemma ; ITnwelcome grvat-cnnts ; Swiss vinejrards ; Kentucky river ; Madison ; Bethlehem ; Louisville ; General rcmariu. CHAPTER LXXVI. 377. I^iisville; Jcflcrsonville; FaUs of tIteOhio; Re- marks on the utility of a canal ; Commerce on the Ohio | Country round tiie falls. CHAPTER I.XXVII. p. 3A1. Indiana territory; Illinois territory; North-west territory ; Louisiana territory ; Orleans territory (now the state of Louisiana) ; New Orleans; Mississippi territory ; Mississippi river; General remarks. CHAPTER LXXVIU. p. 3JM7. Account of the Indian war; Leave Louisvillei Bcar>grass creek ; Middleton; Shelbyville; Clear creek; Beautiful country; Benson Creek ; Romantic valley ; Frankfort ; State-house ; Penitentiary ; Hemp manuthc- tures; Kentucky river; State of Society; Country round Frankfort; yersailles : beautiful coantry : Lexington. CHAPTER LXXIX. p. 401. Lexington: Maricet: Rope*walks : Cotton bag- ging factory : Theatre : Original settlement : Population : Pnblic buildings : Semi- naijr : Library : Steam-mill i ManufiKtures : Prices : State of society : Police : , Country round : Remarks on the climate. CHAPTER LX?(?X. p. 405. Thinessee: Situation : Extent : Area: Face of the country; Rivers; Mountains: Minerals: Soil: Climate: Settlement and pro- grrss ; D'vil divisibns and population : Towns : Agriculture : Manufactures : C«ib- mcrce : State of society ; Government. CHAPTER LXXXI. p. 408. Leave Lexington : Paris : Coimtry round : Mil- icrsburg : Blue Lick : Remarks on Mr. Ashe : Washington : Limestone; CHAPTER LXXXIL p. 411. Kentucky: Situation: Extent: Area: Facc. A braaktMt t Now. Comer'* town : Yankee town : GnadmhutteR ; 8rhoenbfiin : New Fbfladdlphia : Travelling rcimpatiionii : Beautiful country : Dutch tavern : Snndy crock : Nini« •hillen creek : Canton. CHAPTER LXXXVIII. p. 44.5. Canton: Canton dintrict; Reniark!i o;i thfl weather : A Miuall : A Germun family : Si|uatlcn : Reiiectiont : Crow llie Tiiscn> rawa: Connecticut reserve : DlTiding ridge between tlie northern and toothem wa< ten - A Connecticut family : Cayahoga river ; Account uf Hudion i Port«go Area; Face of the country : Soil : Climate : Settlement and progress : Population : Go vemment CHAPTER XCII. p. 4C3. IxMve Cleveland: Chagrin river; A good notion: An intended town : A Scottish store-keeper: Grand river: Lake shere: BeautiM prospect : Ashtabula river : A New>Cunnccticut justice court ;< Eloquent pleadings ; A convivial party: Songs and stories: Merit of Scottidi music: An ohl song: Pishes blown on shore : Reflections on speculation ■ Coaneought river. CHAPTER XCIIL p. 470. State of Ohio: Boundaries: Extent: Area- FWc« of the country: Rivers: Soil: Climate: Minerals: Settlement md progress: Sta- tistical table : Reflections on population : ' Improvements : Towns : Roods : State of society : constitution : jurisprudence : Military : Salutary laws : Shakers. CHAPTER XCIV. p. 480. Banks of Lake Erie: Elk creek: Walnut creek: Erie : Remarks on canal navigation. f CHAPTER XCV. p. 482. Leave Erie; Effects of a tornado; New settlers; Travellaai; Canadaway; Catoragus; Catatogus creek; Indian reserve; Travelling famil)- ;^Rocks and precipices ; Remaricable stratum ; Quicksands ; Dangerous pas- sage ;* Masses of limestone ; Bufiulo ; Dufiklo creek ; Indian settlements ; Indian speeches.' CHAPTER XCVL p. 489. Black rock; Upper Canada ; British satdiers ; Rich settlements; Grand island; Cliippaway ; Chippaway creek ; Rapids; Falls of-Nia> gara ; Sublime view ; Particular examination of the Falls ; Table Rock ; Awful ca- vity under it ; Wonderful scenery ; A brilliant rainbow. ^ CHAPTER XCVIL p. 493. Independence of the Americans; Anecdotes; Bri- tish officers; A dutch settler; A Yankee; Haughtiness and pride of the soldiery ; Queenstown ; Lewistown; A 4Mck- woods-man ; Niagara river; Lake Ontario; Out- let of Niagara river ; Discharge of water ; General reflections. ■ CHAPTER XCVIIL p. 498. British possessions ia North America! New- foundland ; Cope Braton ; Nova Scotia ; New Brunswick ; Lower Canfdli; Quebec ; • i*'?M. XXII CONTKMTII. 'i Montreal ( Up^r Ciaui* ; York ; N«miurk ; QuMuiown ; Kingtton ; MaUvn } BankiorUitbkM; Agrioultiirt ; 8uu of locicty ( Proapoct of war with tko VniUA tUUtn i SmntiMry vmw or iwpulation, trada^ he. CH AFTER XCl X. p. BOS. DaacriptioB of Lewi»town ; Awtnt of TaMe Land ; Falls once hare ; DaMriptlan of the river ; Volnejr't ramarkt { Otttonrationt th ar aa n . •ad on Mr. Schulu'a rovicwtn ; Elegant view } Devil'a-hola i WbirlpoAl ; Orwid Niagara i. View of tlte Fall* ; Ucscriptiou of the river 4t tho Palli : Prohabla daacuat betwaan tlte lukc* ; Strata under tlw FalU ; Mills and machinery ^ Probability of • luge lettlement { Aotount of a boat and canoe boing carried over the Falla ; Fort Sch loaa e r ; Renurkaon canal navigation ; Projected canal round the Fallv CHAPTEll C. p. 509. Leave Fort Schloaaer; Views on the river i Tonewanto^ creek i New road; Great western turnpike ; EUicott's creek ; Price of lands ; Moving limilies; General information ; A missionary preacher ; Tonawanta creek; Batavia; Holland purchase ; ExUnt ; Face of the country ; Soil ; Plan of settling ; State ef society t Roads; Taverns; Opinions on the grand canal; Price af lands ; Descrip- tion of BaUvia ; Pcnple best adapted to llie country ; General refleetiooik CHAPTER CL p. 515. Leave Batavia; Reflections; Le Roy Account of • Scottish settlement at Caledonia ; Geneissee river ; Falls ; Avon ; Ontario county ; Fine views; Honeoye lake; Bloomficld ; Pretty viUagea; Canandaigua ; BeautiAii •cencry ; Description of the vDlage ; General remarks ; A new and beautif'.t edition of Yankee ladies ; Education ; View round Canandaigua ; Future d^stiaioa of the backwmxls; Description of Ontario county. „,,, CHAPTER CIL p. 531. Leave Canandaigua ; A smcjcing scene; Reiections on the use of tobacco ; Geneva; An agreeitble friend ; A pleasant party ; General in for* uiation ; Descrip^iim of Geneva ; Seneca lake ; Soil ; lucreaae of sheep and woollen manufactures ; Register of the weather, and remarks. CHAPTER CIIL p. 597. Leave Geneva; CroH Seneca river; Cayuga lake and village : Description of Seneca river ; Moving families ; Auburn ; Skeneataless ; Onondago court-house and hollow; Description of the salt-works; Manlius Square; Canasemgu huliow ; View of Oueida lake ; A false sign-post ; Hartford ; PMent bellows ; FlourLolaiig country ; Utica. CHAPTER CIV. p. SS'2. Remarks on the grand canal ; and on foreign com- merce i Rapid progress ot' manufactures ; Glass ; C<«ttun ; Woollen ; Iron, &e. Raw materials ; Descriptien of Utic^ CHAPTER Cy.f. 53:, General remarks; History of the seUlement of Sac> Icet's Harbour and countrf round it ; Description of Sacket's Harbour ; trade ; A^ja- ( unt country ; State of society ; Anecdote of a fiuiner and a bear ; Reflections | Re- marks on inlii.nd navigation ; Projected canal; Importance of canal navigation. CHAPTER C VI. p. z;44. Leave Utica; Cross the Mohawk river; Herkimer ; Little falU; Au inventory; Remarkable passage; Charming views ( East Canada creek; Nuke; General information. CHy\P TER CVII. p. 549. Scenery on the Mohawk ; Extensive views ; Johns, town ; Very extensive views ; Broodalbin ; History of the settlement ; Progress ; Priuiitive manners ; Milton ; A large woollen factory ; Ballston springs ; Analysis of the waters. CHAPTER C VI IL p. 554. Leave Ballston ; Waterford; Colioes falls ; Sce- nery on the Hudson river ; Arrive at Albany ; Description of the city ; Markets ; Manufactures ; ConRneree ; StAte of society ; and of the weather. ^ CHl hnds; York CH Oeiwi the ex Infuia «««" Natioi on rea roads; spcct ploym comm ports kitiwi vantag Litem lie lit weatki AP [f tON'-'NTB. xxiii CHAPTER CIX. p. 557. Pnvu\;^c by ittum-bMt ; Hudioni Ntwburg | lUgh- had% ; Stony Point ; llanJ^oia* »tat» ; t'raggy pracipio ; 8«ttUBn«DU oa tha rivar | York iiUnd ; N«w York ; StatiMictl Ubl« of Uia aUta. CHAPTEU CX.p 1^1. Unitadtetas; Euanti Ari«| Faca of tha country; Oancrai tbaory of the clifRNta : SettleiMnt and progroM; Statiitical tahia aihibiting tha aitant of tha country ; Pupulatiooi Cenws of tha United Sutaa; Ac; Oancnl lafoonatioil ■• to ihacp, monufacttuiM, A< ; Ramarkii on tha utlliiy of a national gaofraphy j Comrnarca ; Kxpuita | Impori* ) i^i'Ofreaa of society and national WMlth i National fbnds and dtib) National impMveaienu t Sacretaiy of tha traaaury'i raport on raadt and canal* : Lln«« of cannl along the (-'past : Inland navigation : Turapiko roads { R««soiircos of the nation ; Plan for carrying alt puhli*: works, whan tha pro- spect of remunaration is not sufficient to call forth tha aiertiona wf individuals ; Enw ployment for tha army in time of paace ; Fadaral revenue ) Interruption of foreign commerce ; Plan suggested to moat any falling off in the revenue ; Dutiaa on in^ ports and tonnage ; Thoughts on a national hank | Remaining revenue to bo oontri* biitad by the states { Federal currenicy ( Table of the weight and value of coina { Ad- vantage of a curreiK*y arranged decimally, illustrated by examples ; State of society ; Litaistura i Newspapers printed in Amarica ) Paper manufactured ht America j Pub- lie librariaa | Artidaa of conMaratton | Constitution } Conclusion ) Register of tha waatkar, and table of axpenccs. APPENDIX. No. I. p. 596. Of the cause of tha yellow ftrar, and the OMaaa of preventiiigit. No. IL p. 600. Letter to a member of pariiament on the orders in oouacU and tha American trade ; Extracts from Mr. Brougham's speech. No. III. p. 60R. Remarks on the Scottish peasantry; Establisbmant of the Glasgow ptd>Uc library; Regulations. Na IV. p. 617. ObserrationB on tha trade between Britain and America. No. v. p. 6Sa Advice to Emignuits to the United Sutes^ by Clamenta Bur- iaigfa, Esq. So. VL p. 6'25. Hipta to fimigraBts, by tha Shamrock society, New York. i -s » % »>J -.i^>.-... 'K.--. f ■*«>*.. ". , »l-, ^_ .1 .-r.-'^s b>8,-:-,r a'?e« ^f IW)- -j;^- i tiAflfe;'' ' A'N.i-'* ■? • . ';*i,c: !o« rii..ut.^*!9;ii»-..vvi V/ 1j? .>: ilj;i«WBt*i« Of. .. :.'>'-ft>.v.. ; ,.. .;,.\ ,■ --• .. ;^ u!.- U ai v/-:-i.i*jL ,ni.'. nj-.t^ir' -. »;.;■»"■■- i^''" •^; ^ _.-- i ■ ■ i ' -■ • • .■;■'♦•• •■ ,", I . i.(irt*!!rtf !>i.»-^ Wj iii, '':i'=*/ 'i:,;w '• ■)• *■%'■ ■f*\. ■' '■■ 'S^t. . - .!-•_,,»*. -J*-. •-«-*•♦ —,- •Xt-' .•w?'-?^rfv nr par^AftT TtlAVELS 1^^ x» v> ,(-.. :y\u THE UNITED STATES, fcc. '•♦c CHAPTER I. „;') ClasgcfWf-^Creenocki — Savannaki Having shipped my goodk ow board the Wanington, clip, tain Hinkldy, bound from Greenock to Savannoli, I set out from Giaigow for Or^Mock by the stdge coach, en Saturday, the 8th of March, 1806. l^her^ are two roads from Glasgow to Greenock) the one direct, by Renfrew, the dther by Paisley. 'The stagd took the latter route, which lie« through a level, well- cultivat^ country, ftnd ptettjr fertile) to Paisley. Pabtey is 7 miles distant from Glasgow, And is ah im^larly built tovrn, the streets mostly njitrrow, and not very clean. It contains' upwards of 30,000 iiihtibitants ; and the principal ma- nufactulres are fancy muslins and threads, with silks and gaflzes. The people are very industrious, and thei'e is more elegance and taste displayed in the fancy goods of that town than in any other that I have seen. From Paisley towards Greenock) the country continues level for two miles, and then the foad riles for about five milesj with A o^rildual ascent, to Bishoptdwn, where there is a very fine vievtr. To the west is a full View of the river Clyde^ which expands td the breadth of setdn miles, having Greenodc and Port Glasgow on its left batik, and its borders studded with elegant villas, surrounded by well cultivated fields and plantations. To the north, is Dunbatton, an irregularly built little town, at the motlth df the river Leven, and having considerable manufactures of glass. Near this stands Dunbarton castle, well known in ancient story, on a singularly insulated rock, the evident effect of some great eruption of the earth. To the noith is the beautiful river Leven, celebrated in verse by Snu^- lett, who was bom on its pleasant banks, two miles above 0|wp^ barton. The banks of the river are el^ntly adorned with vil- 'i $ (If' i: f ■V 26 TRAVELS IN las and cultivated fields, and there is more machinery upon it than any river in the west of Scptlaijd. This little river is th« outlet of Loch Lomoild, a lake singularly beautiful and roman- tic, on the east side of which stands Ben Lomond, one of the highest mountains in Scotland; and the view is terminated to north and west by mountains innumerable, the tops of which are generally lost ii| ihd cloHdsi From the summit of the eminence where this view is seen, the road proceeds by a winding descent to the bank» of the river, and keeps close along shore for five miles to Port Glasgow, a small town containing about 3000 people. It was intended to be a port to GlaSgbw, as its name implies, and has a little shipping trade ; but itis altogether eclisped by Greenock, whiqh possesses superior advantages as a port. Three miles beyond this is Gree- nock, and on reaching it, I found that the vessel would not sail for several days. "'] Grei!:.mock is an irregularly b&ilt town, containii^ about 18,009 inhabitants^ and enjoys a very large portion of the commerce of the wesl of Scotland, which employs an extensive mercantile capitaL Besides the coasting and Irish trade, of which it has a large share, it employs numerous shipping to Canada, to the West Indies, and to the continent of Europe ; apd it is the seat of nearly the whole of the American trade with Scotland. There are three of four vessels in the New-York, and as many in the Charleston trade ; besides occasional vessels for Bost(Hi, Savannah, Norfolk, &c. This trade is wholly carried cm in ^American vessels ; and they generally perform two voyages in the year. The country round Greenock has a singular and even romantic appearance. The Clyde is here seven miles broad; but a few miles* below, it makes a sudden bend to the southward, and contracts to the breadth of two miies» On the opposite side is Hellensburg, and two miles below, on this side, is Gourock, which are celebrated watering-placcb, and much frequented by the citizens of Glasgow in the summer season ; and on the west is situated Roseneath, a seat of the duke of Argyle. It was lately burnt down, but it is now rebuilt in an elegant style, and commands a fine . view of the Firth and its shipping. The whole country round rises into higV lands, and the view, is terinin^ted. to the north and west by lofty mountains. ■\ , ' . ' . > ,, ; ' . ";[ From this configuration of the country, connected vrltk the ■ - ;:• • •- - ^ upon it r is th« roman- of the lated to hich sre eeii) the le river, isgow, a led to be shipping possesses is Gree- not sail .'*& *» 4 > It 18,009 rce of the e capitaL ge sharcy it Indies, early the three of Charleston Norfolk, »els; and e country pearance. les* below, :ts to the )urg, and celebrated ' Glasgow seneath, a but it 19 le view of ound rises north and witli the '^feCOTIiAND^ HP winds which blow across the Atlantic Ocean, we may account for the frequent rains with which this place, and indeed the greater part of the west coast of Scotland, is inundated. The wind blows* from the south-west for eight or nine months in the year, and is particularly pre\. lent in tlie winter season. In its course from' the warm latitudes, over the vast expanse of water in the Atlan-- tic Ocean, it is highly impregnated with vapour ; and, arriving • on the high lands on the west of Scotland, it is suddenly con- densed, and falls down in torrents of rain. From these circum- ' stances, the winters are mild and rainy. There is comparatively ^ttle snow, and it never lies long; but it hat been frequently pbserved to rain for forty-two days successively. -1 cannot better illustrate this, than by relating an anecdote of an English travel- ler, and a waiter at one of the public inns. The traveller had arrived there for the first time. On the morrow, he intended to transact his business, but was prevented Jjy the rain; and so suo^ ccssively, for four or five days. At last, accosting the waiter, " What, my lad," says he, does it alvoaifs rain here ?" " O na,'* says the waiter, it sometimes snaws," ^ No material occurrence happened during my stay in Greenock, ^nd I went on board the Warrington, on Wednesday, the }2th of March. A Mr, Ballard, of Boston, was my fellow-pasfienger, in the cabin; and a Mr. MUler ai)d ^ l^rt l4*Kenziq were piii^ sengers in the steerage. ' ' ^ ^ - -^ '- ,,_ . ^ We set Sciil at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, accompfinied by the Factor, Caldwell, of New-York; but the wind was light, and we, made little progress, Both these vessels were very fast sailers, and had excited considierable interest which would sail best. A- mong others, I had a small bet depending on the success of oui^ vesseL By dint of towing, we had got a little ahead of the Facr tor, and were brought to and bonded by the crew of the tender, which was at the Tail of the Bank, who made a search for Britit ish seamen, and conducted themselves with all the insolence of arbitrary power; but all was found correct, and we were suffer*^ ^ to depart. • In the mean time, a small breeze haying sprung upt tlie Fac^ tor, feeling it first, came up with us very fast, took the wind out of our sails, and fairly passed us, to the great joy of th^ one ship's company and mortification of the other* We felt the breeze In, our turn, an4 k^t right ast«ra of the Factoir fifteoi m^^ *■/-■ . \ i ] Mi 28 TXAVBU Olt nilei, to the Cumbraes, where she hove to, to dlschai^ the' pilot, and we passed her; aqd she again passed us, while we were discharging ours. ^''^^^ . Five miles below Greenock is the Clough light-house, where tlie river contracts, and makes the sudden bend to the south be* ^ore noticed ; a little beyond which it spreads out into a spadout firth, and embosoms sevn-al islands, the chief of which are Arran> Bute, and the Cumbraes. It is bounded with high lands on both sides, and the islands are generally ru^;ed and lofty. Arraq^ in particular, rises into very high mountun?* The channel is very safe, and is navigable, at all seasons, for vessels of any burden. It was da^k when we discharged the pilot, and I retired to rest. When I rose in the morning, I found we had passed the islaqd i^ Arrim, and were abr^t of that singularly insulated XY)ck, \tk the middle of the channel,^ celebrated in song by the favourite Scottish bard, Burnsm -' ' • ^' .-.^iUy '»»: -y ^.^i " M^ was deaf as JUta Craig."' ' ■''^'- ^ff- " ^»*^'' Here we' had a very extensive view of the Scottish and Irish coasts. The Factor was a few miles ahead. " ' The wind continued light and variable, so tUit we did not get out of the channel until the afternoon, yrheiji we passed the Mull of Cantyre, soon after which we passed Rathlin Island; and on the morning of the 14th^ we found ourselves in the At- lantic Ocean, and had a most extefisiye view pf the north;!.■? CHAPTER n. ': •^^^^^^ General Remarks. ''' '^ ^ ^ *. * . X HE most material circumstances which happened on board, are recorded in the foregoing chapter; but the passage oaay admit of the following general remarks. ^^^> «f«>'s*' "s^* *f^ ^ The Warrington was a good stout vessel, of SI 8 tons burden, remarkably handsome and well found, and a very fast sailer t but her cargo was light, and all at the bottom, so that she was not well trimmed for sea ; and her motion was sharp, and ihtdlerably uneasy. Captain Hinkley, the commander, was bred a sailor on board of this same vessel, and raised himself by his own merit to the rank he now holds. His scientific knowledge did not seem to be great, but he was an excellent seaman, and very careful in the management of the vessel. »** "* . v.«ix> a *i,^i.. He was provided with an excellent mate, in Mr. Arnold; iR'hd to a thorough knowledge as a seaman, joined a correct knowledge of the theory and practice of navigation, and sciences connedtMl > >i I ***!•_', 1 * } SH \ tiAtiif Oft with iM Im wm moreover a rmj agreeablei intelligent man, tad I received much information from hia remarks. Mr* Ballard, my Mow passenger, was an intelligent, good-^ hatured young mam With the steerage passengers I had of course less connebtion, but they were agreeable ; and the sailors behaved themselves with propriety during the passage. The motion of the vessel was too greiit to pef mit ns to amuse ourselves at any game : and I detoied iny time pretty closely to the study of navigation, geogn^hy, asttonomy, and chart draw- ing; in which I flattered myself that I made ttJerabie proficiency, llie study of chemistry took up part of my time, and so also did general literature and music To the principles of merchandize in general, and the trade between (Glasgow and l^vannah in par* ticular, t paid much attention, and drew up an essay on the ship* ping trade between the two places, and the best method of prose- cuting it; but eircumstances have since otcutred which render it of litde in^portance to the general reader, and t omit it, and sub- stitute in its place the following reflections on the prevailing winds and currents, with other phenomena, in the Atlantic ; and an in* quiiy as to the best courses across that ocean at different seasons of the year. J. 1. Ot THE WINDS OF THE ATtANTld< ' .The trade wind prevails between the tropics, that is, fironi Sls^' S. to HSi;^ N. latitudebeingi? d^rees in breadth; and is a constant motion of the air from east to west, having a little variation near the extremes, that is, towards the southern tropic it inclines to the south-east, and towards the northern tropic it inclines to the north- east. The cause of this current of air is supposed to be the action of the sun, which is always vertical at one point or another between the tropics ; combined with the diurnal motion of the earth, which has a greater velocity here than at any other point The action of a vertical sun rarefies and expands the air, in consequence of which it rises; and the motion of the earth sweeping from under it at the rate of more than 1000 miles an hour to the eastward, causes a constant current of air to the westwards The velocity of thia current is various ; but when I sailed in it, in my voyage to the West Indies, it was very strong, and regular, carrying a heavy sailing vessel at the rate of 8 miles an hour, and it never ihiftad • point from due east. TUB ATLANTIC OCBAH. 38 A little attention to the nature of this wind may lie useful, at It illustrates the theory of the variable winds, and bears with considerable force upon the theory of the climate of the United States. From the tropic of Cancer, In 23^S to about S8* north lati- tude, the wind generally blows from the north-east, and is a branch of the trade wind, partaking of its nature. Between the latitudes of 28° and 32o north, the winds are very irregular ; and that being the region between the trade and variable winds, it is subject to frequent calms. Between tlie latitudes of 28<* and 50** north, westerly winds are by far the most prevalent, particularly in the winter and spring, during which they frequently rise to furi- ous gales and squalls. Beyond 50<* north, I had not occasion to remark, but I believe they are most prevalent from the north-west* II. OF THE QULF STREAM. This stream is a consequence arising from the trade winds*. By an inspection of the chart of the Atlantic Ocean, it will bo seen, that the vast quantity of water of which that ocean is mode up, must be affected by a constant current of air sweeping along it in one direction. This must necessarily give a small degree of motion to the water, which being slanted 6ff by the direction of the coast of South America, has, towards the southern extremity, a north-west motion, and proceeding through the West India islands, raises the waters in the gulf of Mexico beyond the level of the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans. The current being stopt by< the isthmus of Darien, winds along die northern coast of the gulf of Mexico, in search of a level, and finds an outlet through the gulf of Florida, between the island of Cuba and the south point of East Florida. From thence it proceeds in a north-east direc- tion, sweeping the American coast, at the distance of 60 or 70 miles from the land, until it readies cape Hatteras, where it ap-, preaches within 20 or 30 miles of the coast ; here it tends more to the eastward, until it reaches the coast of Nova Scotia, when it takes a course nearly due east. It continues this course until it reaches the Great Bank of Newfoundland, where it seems to be materially affected, and diverging to a greater breadth, ia finally lost towards the Azores and Madeira islands. The breadth of this stream, in the gulf of Florida, is about '-¥/! <»*r- <.c- -.^_,-;M|p^..-,._^^,..a!^^^../ -.j^jpjW^i'iS^ f S4f TRAVBL8 IN • SO or 40 miles. It cncrcascs as it proceeds to the north-east : opposite cape Hatteros it is about 150 miles; off the coast of Nova Scotia it is about 4f degrees ; and at the Bank of Newfoundland it is about 5 degrees ; from thence diverging to 6 or 7. . The velocity of the current is, in the gulf of Floriday about five or six miles an hour, but it decreases as it proceeds to the north-east. Opposite cape Hatteras it is about two miles ; off the coast of Nova Scotia it is about one and a half; and at tha banks of Newfoundland it is about one mile. The probability is, that its course is directed to the eastward by the influence of the rivers issuing from the coast of America, particularly the great river St. Lawrence, opposite to which it seems to make the greatest bend; and it is also probable that the confluence ot these waters and another stream proceeding from Davis' Straits, has contributed to raise tlie Bunks of Newfound- land. The temperature of this stream is different from that of the surrounding ocean, and partakes of that of the waters in the gulf of Mexico, being generally 10 or 12 degrees warmer than the otlier parts of the ocean. Hence it aflccts the temperature of the air above it, which is frequently subject, particularly in the spring, to calms, fogs, whirlwinds, water spouts, and storms of thunder and lightning. The heavy fogs which hover over the Banks of Newfoundland, seem to arise from this warm fluid, mixing with the cold ntmospherc generated by the stream from Davis' Straits. " The next phenomenon which I shall notice, a» bearing on this subject, is, that islands of ice, sometimes numerous and of great extent, arc carried by the stream from Davis' Straits, in the spring season; and before they are dissolved by the warmth of the Atlantic, they sometimes extend as far south as the latitude of 45" or 40°, and as far east as the longitude of 48<' or 50*. Vessels sailing to and from America have been frequently entangled amongst them, and some have been totally lost. '•> A correct knowledge of these circumstances is of considerable importance to our inquiry, and the following practical deductions may be of service to those interested in the result. 1st. Ships bound from Britain to the West Indies should shape their course from the channel to St. Mary's, one of the Azores ; from thence to where the longitude of 40** intersects the latitude of23Ji**; and from thence run down the trades for the intended . '- ■ ■ r ^ . \ f •■- 32' -^^ ? 'J * GIOKGIA. ' 95 port. Ships bound from Europe to the gulf of h|^, s^^ulU keep the same course. The return from the V est Indie nd Mexico to Europe is different according to situation, as a few ic- grces of longitude moke an important variation. Generally speak- ing, it is best for vessels to bear to the northward until they get in- to ihc variable winds, and then keep along with tliem in the near- est way to their intended port. i'd. Vessels bound to the southward of the capes of Virginia in the United States, should, in the spring, shape their course fur St. Mary's, as aforesaid ; from thence to about where the longitudo of 35** intersects tiie latitude of 28", where they will, at that sea- son, most likely meet with an easterly wind, failing which they are sure to fall in with it a few degrees farther south ; run down with k due west till they arrive on the confines of the gulf stream ; and then bear away for the intended port. By taking this southern course, at this season, they will avoid several difficulties. Ist. The danger of fhlling in with islands of ice. 3dly. The necessity of passing the gulf stream where it is four or five degrees broad, and at that season subject to much bad weather And Sdly. The diance of meeting with a series of head winds. In the autumn there is no ice to be dreaded, the weather is more mild, and the westeriy, winds less prevalent, while the latitudes between 28** ami 32 ** are much subjected to calms^ sp that it is best, upon the whole, to run for the intended port. 3d. Ships bound to the northward of the capes of Virginia should shape their course direct for the intended port. They have no occasion to cross the gulf stream, and, as to the ice, it may be prudent to keep a little to the soHthward, as they approach the Banks of Newfoundland. 4th. Vesseb bound to Europe from any port of America, can- not do better th^n run direct for the intended port, r.. . '-4: 9^^m^ ; r.r^ _5 ."*.-■ ' " ' CHAPTER III/ >• V t Vr! ..(.,/- .*•.■.: ,^. Savanna/tf ''ii. ,' .-*'*:.'.•"" -;'^.vs' The first objects that attracted my att^tion on my arrival in Savannah, was the sallow appearance of the inhabitants, and the extreme warmth of the weather; the thermometer being at 91**. I naturally concluded that as the season advanced the heat would ^.«— <•■ f--"*- "•'»f;.' '»l i * -.1 'flP. TIAYKIJ IN iiicreaoe, oimI would >oon bo almost intoleniblo. This opinion wm •trengtheneil by tome of the inhabitants who are in the habit o^ alarming ttrongen concerning the climnte ; but I was ofterwnrda inlbrmcd by a judicioiM medical gentleman, that there would be few days warmer than this, and that the weather would be, upon the whole, much cooler. This opinion I found to be correct, for in a few days the thermometer fell below 70", and it seldom rose above 85" while I continued in Savannah. ' > .. The next circumstance that made a forcible impression upon mo was the great difference between this place and any other I had seen before. There was no distant view — no external object to amuse the fancy — the whole country round, north, south, east, and west, was one dull scene which excited no interest ; and the music of the birds of heaven was exchanged for the dull croaking of the bull-frog, and the shrill treble pipe of the musquetoe. Nerertlie* less, I soon got familiarized to the place, and even fond of it. My business, which was well organized, was succeeding to my wish, and the inhabitants, whom I found very obliging, became every day more amiable in my eyes. Savannah is situated in 32^ 2' north latitude, on a high sandy bank, or bluff on the south side of the Savannah river, H miles from the sea. The city is laid out on an elegant plan, and is about a mile in length from east to west, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth. It consists of 30 streets, 16 squares, and 6 lanes, con- taining about 1000 houses, and 5500 inhabitants; of whom about S500 are slaves. The public buildings are a court•ho^se, jail, aca^- demy, bank-office, and five places for public worship. There has lately been built a very handsome exchange^ with a spire and ob- servatory, from whence vessels may be seen out at sea 10 or 12 miles. The situation of Savannah is favourable both for health and commerce. The bluff on which it is built is from 50 to 70 feet high, so that there is a fine descent to the river. This bluff is a bed of very fine sand ; and by digging wells about 60 or 70 feet deep, a supply of excellent water is procured, probably a filtration firom the river. The streets are broad and airy, and the city, being only 17 miles from the sea, frequently enjoys a sea breeze, which is cool and refreshing in the summer season. . ,^ . r^ <^ The trade of the city is considerable, and employs 13 regular ships to Britain ; 15 packet brigs and schooners to New York ; two or three to Philadelphia, Baltimore and Boston; two or three ■^..A. .♦;, -■'^V ._-.v-»«;v-»- i>-*-* ,., 1 .^--^ ... 1.. ■ -%y -.^ ^r.ii CtOKOIA.' iT •looph to CharlMton ; and four or five venels to the Wert Ifediei. Besides thcoc, there arc a number of vetteli that come from iIm north wan), annially, to take fmght for Britain, and the continent pf liUrope. T ^ country in the vicinity contributes but little to the supply of the city. To the south it is sandy and barren for a considerable distance ; to the north, east, and west, considerable crops of rice lire ~ lised ; but it is thought that the rice fields contribute to make thecuy unhealthy. Cotton and rice arc the staple commodities of the state ; and Savannah being the only shipping port in it, iq, of course, the general mart for the disposal of these articles. The seft- island cotton of this state is reckoned superior to any in America. The principal islands where it is raised are St. Symons nnd Cum- berland ; but it is planted and comes to maturity in all the other islands along the coast from Charleston southward, as well as on other places of the seaboard, and it> thence called seaboard cotton, aty as some of my Scots friends would have it, " seabuird taoo** The exports from the state amount to above two millions of dollars annually ; besides what is carried coastwise, which is not entered at the custom-house, and which may probably amount to as much more. The great value is in cotton, and the whole centres in Sa- vannah. The imports are from Europe, the West Indies, and the northern states, and consist of dry goods, hardware, groceries, flour, ^c. ; and it is presumed they are nearly equal in value to the ex- ports. Supposing the aggregate to be 8,000,000 dollars, and allow 7 per cent, commission to the Savannah merchants, tlie result will be 560,000 dollars, as the annual income of Savannah, which may perhaps be pretty near the truth. Savannah river is one of the most important in America. It^ head waters consist of two small rivers which rise near the moun* tains, and form a junction about 220 miles from the sea ; from thence it runs a south-east course, and falls into the ocean 17 miles belovf Savannah. It receives several small streams in its progress, an^ is the boundary line between Georgia and South Carolina, during. its whole course, It is navigable for ships of any burden to v^ithii^ three miles of Savannah ; for ships of 250 tons to Savannah ; and for boats of 100 feet keel to Augusta. Above Augusta are the Ra- pids, and, after passing them, the river can be navigated SO miles higher, in small boats, to the junction of the head waters. It qAy be remarked that through the medium of this rirer a ooBsuterlbLe . ♦^ '^ r ■"■■ *• ";-? * " '■■ « -»•••■ w- ■'^~., — ,^. # S8 TRAVELS IN ir t <■' part of the produce of South Carolina is carried to the Sarannah market. ^■. • The river abounds with fish, and the water is soft and good ; but the country on its banks is by no means healthy, especially in the lower part of the state^ . 1 ■ I -); '^.A •■, • i- - ' CHAPTER IV. ' V : . ^. .,. SeeoannaJif — Wayneshorought — Louisville. •*•;'* Having arranged my affairs in Savannah, and confided tlie management of the business to a trusty assistant, I rcsolyed, in pursuance of my original plan, to make a tour to the upper coun-; try, for the purposjC of ac<)uiiing information, and forming cout nexions. The season was far adyianced for travelling, in that couur jtry, but I trusted to a good constitution und temperate habits; and finding a gentleman about to go to Augusta, I resolved to ^vail myself of his company. ^ accordingly purchased a horse, for which I paid 118 dollars^ s^dle and bridle included, and, having every thing prepared, we set out at mid-day on Friday, June 27th. We took the Augusta road, and at two miles from Savannah, we passed the branch which leads to Louisville. A little beyond this there is a fine spring of pure water, much fre? quented by the inhabitants of Savannah in the summer season. Seven miles firom Savannah we met two tri^vellers, who informed us that the creeks.* were all swelled to a great height, and the bridges broken down, so that we could not possibly get along. The road was, indeed, far from inviting. There had been a long series of rainy weather, and the afternoon was very sultry ; but we resolved to go through, if possiblej, and accordingly l^ept on our course. Tw'o miles from where v/e met the travellers, we reached the first obstacle, called Pipemaker's Creek. The bridge ' was nearly gone, but we adjusted the faflers a little, and witl^ A aome difficulty led our horses oyer. After travelling three miles piore, we reached Austin's Creek, and here, the bridge being < entirely gone, we swam our horses across. A mile further on i we reached Black Creek, the largest and most dangerous of die three. It had swelled to a great extent ; in the middle the curren^ * Jkia term i% to tbe United States, applied to streams or rirukts. > ' '-' ¥1 ..■.:.^,.^'.4 '-^^n-*- -'.•■^r- 1^ CtORGIiL S9 was rapid, and the bridge was in a very shattered conditidb. We had to wade with our horses nearly belly deep, above 200 yards, before we came to the bridge, and here alighting, I walked a- long, up to the knees in water, adjusting the rafters as well as I could, and then with considerable difficulty led my horse over : a countryman, whom we came up with at the bridge, attempted to follow my example, but his horse fell through, and was near being lost. I pitied the poor man, who was in great 'affliction for his crature, as he called the horse ; but we assisted him, and with considerable difficulty got the crature relieved. My fellow- trtvveller declined following our example, and, stripping his hone, he swam him through the creek, himself walking along the re- mains of the shattered bridge. After passing the bridge, we had again to wade about 200 yards before we reached dry land ; and, a little beyond the creek, we arrived at Hely's Inn, where we stopt for dinner. Here we found the Augusta stage and passengers. They had set out two hours before us, and, having the same ob» stacles to encounter as ourselves, had been detained thus Imig. Our dinner consisted of fowls, bacon, eggs, butter, wheat breads Indian corn bread, rice, and homony. The last mentioned dish I had not seen before, and it is not generally known. It is made of Indian corn cleared of the husk, and broken by beating, but not very small ; it is then boiled in water to the consistence of pudding, and served up for use. When well prepared, it is very patalabic, and is wholesome nutritive food. A little cherry bran- dy wa& the only liquor wc could get. The charge for man and horse was 75 cents. Leaving Hely's, we travelled two miles, when my fellow-travel- ler stopped to point out the spot where two negroes were executed for killing an overseer. The one was hanged, and the other was burnt to death. I was informed that this mode of punishment is sometimes inflicted on negroes, when the crime is very flagrant, to deprive them of the mental consolation arising from a hope that they will after death return to their own country. This maybe good policy as respects the blacks; but, in mercy to the white people, I wish it could be avoided. When I looked at the scorched tree where the man had been tied, and observed the fragments of his bones at the foot of it, I was horror-struck ; and I never yet can think of the scene without n pang. What feelings Biust have been excited in those who S4w the execution t Thir» 1 *, ( m J^m ■ Ini^^ i '\\ ■^■ri "'"'-afc^^j*^^ -^ .#—■ /v is %m 40 TRAVELS IN # teen miles beyond this we reached Bcrr/s tavern, 28 miles {rom Sftvannah, and here we stopt for the night; The afternoon was sultry^ and^ in consequence of the heavy ntins, the road was veVy bad. The first 13 miles we were quite enveloped in thick pine woods, with very little brush-wood. The soil is poor and sandy, so that there are few settlements. The last 15 miles were rather more pleasant, and there are more set- tlements; but the country is level, abounding Ivith marshes, mus* quetoes, and bull-frogs; and the soil continues poor and sandy^'^^^' Saturday, 28th June, we rose at 3 o'clock and settled 9ur bill, which amounted to one dollar and thirty-one cents each; and travelled through a barren, swampy, unpleasant tract, 10 miles, when we Mopped to breakfast at the house of a Major King. We were detained a long time here : but we were well compensated by getting an excellent breakfast, and the view of the place was far superior to any thing we had seen since we left Savannah. It is situated on an eminence, the ground cleared for a considerable way round, and there is a clear rivulet in the neighbourhood, a thing uncommon in the low comitry; sycli streams being generally choaked up by brush-wood, and converted into swamps. After leaving King's, the country rises a little, but it is still poor and sandy. We travelled 10 miles to Scrog^s, and the day being exceedingly hot, we stopped here for dinneh Hearing the noise of a wheel up stairs, which was the first I had heard in America, I went to see what was going on. Here I saw a black girl carding cotton, and a daughter of the landlord spinning the rolls on the large wheel. They were quite busy, and appear- ed to be industrious and happy. After coming down stairs I entered into conversation with the mistress of tlie house, whom I found to be a sensible woman, and sufficiently communicative. She informed m^ that they, as well as all the other families in the neighbourhood, spun cotton all the year round, and got the yarn woven into every article necessary for family use; such as sheet- ing, shirting, toweling, table-cloths, gowns, petticoats, aprons, caps; pantalooni^ vesting, and summer coats for the men's use; besides sofa-clothes, fringes, tassels, hosiery, &c. I examined the yam and cloth, and found the fabrics substantial and durable. The cloth was neatly manufactured, and some of the articles were handsome. I saw that this family was ** independent of commei to the j idea wi terest a excited principl( of hums Leavi) ""-A ) from heavy e quits . The , The re set" i, mus* mdy. settled le cents pleasant ise of a we were the vie^v lince vre 1 cleared ;t in the inverted. it is still and the Hearing id heard 1 saw a spinning d appear- stairs I whom I itive« She ies in the the yarn as sheet- s, aprons, men's use; GEOKGIA* It . « commerce ;*' and this was the first impression that I rceeired as to the importance of the domestic manufactures of America. The idea was novel, and its tendency was to militate against my in- terest as an importer; yet I cannot say but that the feelings excited by it were of the pleasing kind. Self-interest is a proper principle, but it should be so regulated as not to blunt the feelings of humanity, nor to make us repine at the well-being of others. Leaving this comfortable cabin we travelled two miles, when, coming to a grocery store, we lighted to quench our thirst ; the af- ternoon being excessively hot and sultry. Here we saw a lady from Savannah, who, having lost two children in that city, had retired here with the third, the only one she had left. The child appeared to be thriving, and I hope will live to reward the mother for her maternal care. The Georgian ladies appear to be very fond of children, and, in tlie country at least, they seem to be suf- ficiently prolific ; for we hardly ever passed a house without see- ing a cluster of young ones: and often a child at the breast of a mother, whom, judging from external appearance, I would have reckoned past child-bearing. V^e travelled eight miles further, through a country nearly ' similiar to that we had passed, to Pearce's ; and here we stopped -, for the night. This is one of the most pleasant places I had yet seen in Georgia. There are three plantations adjoining, so that the country is clear- . ed for a considerable way round ; and being a little elevated, it is free from swamps, and tolerably healthy. Here we saw a number of starlings, and heard several mocking-birds, whose notes were very delightful. We retired to rest at nine o'clock ; but I was so overcome with fatigue, that I enjoyed little repose. Sunday, 29th June. We set out at five o'clock in the morning, and travelling 1 1 miles through pine woods, and a barren sandy soil, we passed Beaverdam creek by a wooden bridge, and arrived at the village of Jacksonborough. It is situated on the north side of the creek, and consists of aboUt 12 dwelling houses, a church, and jail. The situation is unhealthy on the creek, but the land is considerably elevated behind the town, and is said to be quite healthy. The view was gratifying to m^ being the first rising ground I had seen in the United States. We travelled nine miles beyond this to Burrel's, to breakfast. The country is completely barren, and covered with pine tiee^ i) *■♦-- iS s 42 TRAVELS IN >vithout any brushwood, the whole way, but the air was clastic and agreeable. It is a common remark in Georgia, that the pine lands are healthy ; and the circumstance may probably be accounted lor by supposing, that the resinous particles of the pine may contri- bute to increase the oxygen of the atmosphere ; while, the woods being generally on barren ground, no pernicious gases are gene- rated uncongenial to the human system. A great portion of the subsistence of the human body, is received by breathing. The atmosphere is principally composed of two fluids, oxygen and azote, in the proportion of nearly three-fourths of the latter to one-fourth of the former. It is the oxygen that supports animal life. In respiration it is absorbed by the lungs, and combines with the blood, which gives it its florid colour ; while tho azote is tluown out by the return of the breathing. There are other fluids which mingle occasionally with the atmosphere, the principal of which is hydrogen, which is generated freely by the decompo- sition of vegetable and animal matter in water ; and this fluid is not simply unfit for respiration in a negative sense — it is positively noxious. Hence that state of the atmosphere which contains oxy- gen in the proper portion, and where there is no other gas, e'l^cept azote, must be the fittest for respiration ; and, from a consideration of these circumstances, we may see the reason why high hilly countries, or well-drained low countries, are healthy — while crowded cities, abounding in filth, and low marshy situations in the country, are the reverse. — From this reasoning we may draw the following prac- tical deductions, 1st. Cities should be so constructed, as to admit a current of free air into every spot. They should be kept very clean ; and no stagnant water, or latent filth, should be allowed to accumulate in or about them. /<^ , 2d. Low countries, when fixed upon as the residence of man, should be drained ; or, if that be imp'-actiable, the house* should be as far removed from all stagnant water as possible. 3d. In those diseases which are the effect of breathing impure air, perhaps it would be beneficial to administer oxygen to the lungs as a medicine. The use of vinegar ^n diseases of this kind is well known. It is almost wholly composed ol" oxygen, and it parts with it freely ; so that on sprinkling a sick chamber with it, an odour immediately rises, which is both grateful and beneficial to llic patient. Several plants have the same effect, particularly GEORGIA. 43 those having an acid smell. I was onqe recovered from fainting by the application of southernwood. I had been affecttxl by breathing air deprived oi its oxygen in a crowded church. The oxygen of the plant supplied the defect, and relieved me. Having breakfasted, we pursued our journey 1 1 miles through a country nearly similar to that already described, but rather in an improving state, to where the road forks; the right branch leading to Augusta, the left to Waynesborough. We took that towards Waynesborough, on which the country improves rapidly. In place of pine barrens, swamps, and muddy creeks, we had now an elevated dry road, agreeably uneven, and adorned on each side with natural wooritb ex- treme violence. I was in danger of suffocation, and ran to the window to get fresh air.; but all was still — t%|^^|A>|)ot a breath of air stirring. I observed three beds in the room, empty, and thought I would try an experiment : I wrapped myself up i|i a blanket, and taking all the cl^hes of the three beds, I threw thenv over me. I had a small bottle of Madehra wine prepared for t^. journey, of which I took a little, and laid it at my head. My pulse rose to 130, and I suffered tlie most excruciating pain for about half an hour, when a profuse perspiration broke out and relieved me. I partook freely of the wine, and kept np the perspiration until morning, when the fever was quite gone; but I way debilitated to such a degree that I could hardly stand. HZ J . : On getting up, I judged it expedient to take modical ndniXf aad applied to a Dr. PoweU» who {>rescribed sor*; nediidne^ and / .#■ ,1 • \ -•>♦■♦*-■-' l"'^: hiiSi. ■ h' \ ^f d Ivi- ' if i 4ft TK&VEL8 IN advised me to decline going further up the country at present, the season being quite too far advanced for travelling. He recom- mended to stop two or three days ih Louisville, and then to cross over to Augusta by the way of Richmond Springs, where I could stop a few days, and in case I found I could not travel from Au- gusta on horseback, I could take the stage. This advice I resolved to follow, and made my arrangements accordingly. '' Having, in consequence of this determination, a little time to spare, I wished to apply it to the best advantage, and I was kindly assisted by my friend Dr. Powell. He invited mi: to his house, and introduced me to Mrs. Powell, a very sensible judicious lady, by whom I was treated with marked attention. The doctor and his lady gave mc every information that could be desired) and I was finally invited to take a bed ut their house, by which means I was relieved from the bustle of a public tavern, and the stiU more disagreeable sting of the musquetoes with which the bedro6ms in it were infested. ■ On Friday, the 4n)f» -".!* - j»^«i.-a.i,'\wi*-..-.l.... ^ , ■ ■■, ; - GEORGIA. $tt of the community, and no alienation ought to take place without securing alike the rights of all ; but this can never be done by a lot- tery, which is a game of chance,-;— and all cannot be gainen. To the gainer it is more than well — he gets an advantage over his neigh- bour, and is satisfied; but who indemnifies the loser? In this case would it not have been better for the state to have retained it, and sold it out at the market price? The funds arising from it might have been usefully applied in making roadi and bridges, in improving the navigation of rivers, draining marshes, &c. Legislators have a most important trust reposed in them» and should never sacrifice great national objects to obtain tempo* rary popularity. ' '' This being tlie anniversary of American independence, the day was ushered in by the firing of great guns ; and military companies had collected in Louisville, from the whole country round. On my return to the tavern, I found a considerable number of the military assembled there. 1 was waited on by a committee of the artillery company, and received a very polite invitation to dine with them, which I accepted with pleasure, being anxious to ob- serve the mode of celebrating this day, so important in the annals of America. . * f r About 3 o'clock we sat down to dinner. The captain took his place at the head of the table, the oldest lieutenant at the foot ; the committee gave the ditferent orders, and all were on an equal footing. Several of the state officers dined with them. AHer dinner they drank Madeira wine to a series of toasts, one fur each state, which had been previously prepared. Among the number were " The dav we celebrate ;" " The land we live in ;** " the president of the United States;" " Memory of general Washington." " Memory of Benjamin "Franklin." Memory of John Pierce," &c. Each toast was followed by a discharge of artillery, and the muaiic played an appropriate air. A nnmber of excellent songs were sung, and the afternoon was spent with great conviviality and good humour. Having several calls to make in the town, I left the table early» but returned again in the evening, when I found that the cordial drop had added greatly to the elevation of the animal spirits of the company. They had also received an addition to their numi- ber, by several military officers high in command, among wbou) was major-general Jackson. Having occasion to give a' UHUit» I > iii ^ $■ r u \i'-> I ¥ 48 TIAVJtLS IN ftTailedmyielf of that opportunity, to impress them with fatonr' able sentiments towards my native country. Aiqerica had been long regarded with a jealous eye by the councils of Britain, and an almost total alienatioh of affection was the consequence. I knew that Mr. Fox's administration Was favourably disposed to* wards America, and I was inclined as far as I had opportunity, to impress the Americans with that belief. Accordingly, after thanking the company for the honour they had conferred upon me, and assuring them of my own friendly regard for the country, I prc^osed as a toast, " Mr. Fox, and the independent whigs of Britain. May their joint endeavours inrith the government of the United States be the means of reconciling the differences between the twc* countries; and to the latest posterity may Americans and Britons hail one another as brothers and as friends." This was cordially received^ and drank accordingly ; and immediately after I was introduced to and politely received by the visiting officers. The whole of my observations in this place tended to convince me, that the American character was very indifferently under* stood in Britain; and, indeed, very much misrepresented^ I was satisfied from every thing I saw and heard, that there was no animosity against the British people whatever ; and that the animosity against the British government was the consequence of what they conceive to be a series of injuries long persevered in^ and seme of them even justified on the score of privilege. Great mistakes may be committed, by judging of the American character from what is to be seen in the seaports. Nothing can be more erroneous than a judgment so formed. The Commercial cities of America are like those of other countries, and principle is often sacrificed at the shrine of commerce; while a considerable part of the commerce of the United States is carried on by fo- reignersf each so anxious to extend the trade with his native country, in which he is most interested, that the tone of national sentiment is often lost, or but indistinctly seen, in the conflicting opinions which are every day promulgated. ^ To view the American character fairly, we must go into the Ulterior of the country, and there the first remark will probably be, that the inhabitants hav« a spirit of independence, and will brook no superiority. Every man is conscious of his own political importance, and will suffer none to treat him with disrespect. Vor is this dispo6itiosition may encourage rudeness ; but I have not yet seen it. As the people will bend to no superiority} they really affect none ; and I am impressed with the belief, that it is a stranger's own fault, if he docs not feel very happy among them. r. . Saturday, July 5th. I Icil Louisville at 5 o'clock in the morn- ing, and travelled through a barren, sandy country, twenty miles to breakfast. From thence, 1 travelled eight miles more, through pine woods, to Richmond Springs, which I reached to dinner. Towards the springs, the country gets elevated, and agreeably vneven; but the soil is miserably poor. The springs have no other medicinal quality than what is conferred by limestone, of which there is here a considerable bed ; and there is a fine rivu- let, which Mr. Posner, the proprietor, has very judiciously di- verted into a bathing-house ; and, at a great expence, has conver- ted the whole into bathing quarters, with ample accommodations. I staid two days at this place, and found my situation very com- fortable. I had an opportunity of bathing in the pure spring water once or twice a-day, and had limestone water, pure from the rock, to drink. Our victuals were good, and the cookery ex- cellent. My health I found re-established, and my spirits recruit- ed ; so that every thing concurred to render the place agreeable. And yet this place, which might be so beneficial to Georgia, is neglected. Mrs. Posner is a woman of colour, and is disliked by the Georgian ladies, who will not go to her house. Where the ladies will not go, the gentlemen will not go, and so poor Mr. Posner does not get a proper reward for his exertions, and the Georgians lose the benefit of one of the sweetest summer re- treats in all the country. I was really sorry to learn this tale, for I was exceedingly well pleased with mndam Posner's attention. The old man is a sort of poet too, and, though his rhymes are not to be compared with those of Pope or Milton, yet they are humourously recited, and in a dialect that never fails to excite risibility. He favoured me with a copy of verses, which he addressed to .i little swindling Jew of my acquaintance in Savannah, who, he said, had cheated li'un ; and of which the concluding stanzu will be sufficient to satis- jty the reader of his poetical powers*. ^ 7 m .^l^'-: .J ■.*.;A^"- -V sir TKAVBLS IN But it lurtlj waa a great tin, . '^ „ ,,f.,-i To scud ine common whiiiky in place of Holland* gln> i , ' ' : The wont remains behind,— To wnd me common Malaga, in place of good Mnderia wine. Mondayi July 7th. Set out for AuguKtOf at 4 o'clock in the morning. The road, which is pretty good, runt through a hilly, uncultivated tract of country, on which there are some settle- ments, with several creeks, and saw and grist mills. I reached Augusta, which is sixteen miles from tlie springs, at 9 o'clock. V,, : . . CHAPTER VI. .. ^ Augusta, — South Carolina, — Savannah, • (,( ., , j,j.j A.UOUSTA is situated on a handsome plain, on the south side of Savannah Hiver, 127 miles from Savannah, and contains about 2*00 inhobitants, of whom above one-half are slaves. The public buildings are, two churches, an academy, a court-house, jail, a market-house, and several public warehouses. The town is at the head of large boat navigation, and carries on a very extensive and profitable trade, both with Savannah and the back country. Many of the merchants are wealthy, and impoi't their goods; and the greater part of the others purchase in New Vork. The town was orignally settled by emigrants from Scotland : but the society is now very mixed, and probably those of Irish extraction are the most numerous. The inhabitants are in general well- informed, and have a considerable taste for literature. They are affable in their deportment, and polite and hospitable to strangers. The countiy round Augusta is agreeably diversified, and well cultivated. The whole plain, on which Augusta stands, is re- markably fertile; and towards the south-west, the country rises ^)to considerable hills, interspersed with fertile plains, remarka- bly favourable for the culture of cotton ; and the cotton planta- tions are in a very thriving state. This is reckoned the boundary between the high and low country. The falls in the river are three miles above Augusta, and immediately on leaving the town for the westward, the great contrast between this and the low country is seen: in place of swamps, rarshes, and sandy deserts, the senses are gratified by high rising grounds, rich verdure in the woodfli and clear streams of watei. -'•«T..>, ^-.^■*^'-*i^-- ■*-'^> -*^^, SOtTTR CAROLINA. 5t I rentnined in Augusta, from the 7th to the 14 of Julyi during which period, I made several little excunioni to the country, to sec the cotton plantations, the greater part of which were in a thriving state. The river is here 500 yards broad, luid very deep ; and I found the trade upon it to exceed my expectations The weather was hot and sultry, the thermometer varying ironi 88° to 94°, though one day it fell as low as 72". I was well pleased with the civilities of the inhabitants, and I left Augusta witli sentiments of friendly regard towards them. ' A Mr. Scarborough, of North Carolina, gave me a very warm invitation to visit him when I was in the upper country, and I resolved to crobs the Savannah River, and return by his place. } accordingly left Augusta on the 14th of July, at 11 o'clock, and, travelling about three miles through the level plain on which the city stands, I crossed the river by a flat boat. The road rises» on the Carolina side, to a considerable eminence, but the soil is poor and sandy. At five miles from the river, I called at a very handsome plantation, belonging to a Mr. Taylor, by whom I was hospitably detained to dinner. A planter from the neigh- bourhood wafi there, and, p$ his plantation lay on my route, I availed myseU\of his company, and had a very agreeable rid^ of twelve miles, to the saw-mill and store of a Scots gentleman« where I stopped for the night. . : "k i •• * -^ . On the ].5th, at dayrbreak, I proceeded oh my journey, through a low, swampy, barren country, where the road forked 80 oflen, that I travelled with di£Sculty ; but, after missing my way several times, I reached Mr. Scarborough's at 1 1 o'clock, where I found a most hospitable welcmne. On my way I passed inany creeks and saw-mills, and I learned that a considerable trade, in this part of the country, consists in sawing timber into boards and planks, called lumber, and floating them dowu the river to a market, Mr, Scarborough has a very comfortable establishment, con- sisting of a good farm, a store, and saw-mill; and, being much respected, has the best trade in this part of the country. On going into the store, I was surprised to observe the vast variety of articles it contained ; consisting of dry goods, groceries, hard- ware, earthenware, medicines, &c, \ was informed, that the mode of doing business was to give a credit to the planters till (he crop was read^ iov market, au4 t)ien to take their surplus # «' i-l 'i ;?^. — • «»v- 'K'^ 52 TRAVKLS ON produce, consisting principally of cotton, in payment. Thcbusi- lu Si was conducted by a discreet Englishman, and they had an ex« ceilent run ; but I learned that country stores had multiplied to tuch an extent, that the business was overdone generally, and people would need to be very cautious in dealing with country merchants. ' -• ^' ^' Having been most hospitably entertained by this family for two days, I took my departure for Savannah, on Thursday, 17th July, and rode 28 miles through a very barren country, contain*- jng few settlemenls, to the house of a Mrs. Dunn, where I stop- ped for the ni[^ht. Friday, 18th. Set out at daylight, and travelled through a more dismal country than any that I had yet seen. From Mrs? Dunn's to Sisters's terry, on the Savannah river, 14 miles distant, tliere is hardly a single settlement. The country is perfectly level, except towards the river, where there are a few sand-hills; the woods are mostly pine, and I found some settlements had been attempted, and abandoned by the settlers. At one of these I met with a considerable disappointment : I came to a fork of the Toad, and, seeing a plantation at a distance, I rode to it, to inquire the right way ; but, lo ! on my. arrival there, 1 found it inhabit? ^ by goats only. . ; > ;. . ;* , n f ; '^'.r. '.''■ , , v;*.. v i- ^^ "io I arrived at the river about nine o'clock, and crossed the ferry ;n a flat boat. The river is here about 250 yards broad, and flows with a majestic sweep. I travelled nearly a mile through a muddy swamp, in which the horse was frequently up to the knees, and }was much annoyed by musquctoes. From this swamp, the ground rises abruptly, to a considerable elevation, and bears evident marks of having been at one time the bank of the river. From hence I travelled about a mile, when I came into the Savannah road, not far from King's tavern, mentioned in the fourth chapr ter. I found the Savannah road now dry and good, and I tra? veiled on with great expedition to Berry's, where the day being very hot And sultry, I proposed to remain for thp night. Towards, two o'clock, the weather became cool, with an east wind, and I set put for Savannah ; but I had not travelled far, when I saw all the signs of an approaching storm. To the east, the atmosphere was black and dismal; the wind was irregular, and sometimes whistled violently ; I could see the lightning flash \ii the clouds, and beard Uie tliundcr roar at d, dista^cei but ( he busi- id an ex- [plied to Uy, and country y for two ay, 17th containo re I stop- irough a om Mrs? ;s distant, ctly Itvel, hills; the had been (f these I >rk of the to inquire t inhabiti the ferry and flows a muddy nees, and be ground fs evident From Savannah rth chapr nd I trar THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. 53 was tempted by the coolnefiB of the air to proceed, and observing that the settlements were pretty thick by the way side, I resolved not to take shelter until there was absolute necessity. '\^'hile I was meditatinn; thus, I was suddenly and dreadfully alarmed. A stream of electric fluid, apparently as thick as a man's wrist, darted sud- denly from a black cloud, almost right over my head, and divid- ing in the middle of the road, a few yards before me, struck the trees on each side, with a shock which made the' whole woods ring. This was instantaneously followed by such a peal of thun- der, as made my horse spring two or t;hree feet high. I rode with increased speed, resolved to take shelter in the first house, but seeing no immediate appearance of rain I kept on my course to Dasher's, 20 miles from Savannah. Having stopped here some little time, I observed the storm to spend its force in the eastward, and, being satisfied it was over, set out for Savannah; and, after an agreeable ride, reached the city at seven o'clock in the evening. I travelled, this d^y, 52 miles ; and my whole jour- ney was about 300, I remained in Savannah until the 27th of July, The weather was very hot and sultry, but the city continued pretty healthy. I was surprised to observe the vast emigration to the northward at this time, every vessel for New York, Philadelphia, Boston or Bal- timore, being quite crowded with passengers. I had once an inten« tion of spending a few months on the sea islands with a friend, from whom I had a very warm invitation ; but, in consequence of letters &om New York, I was induced to alter my determination, iind go to that city. u ~. . ... .. . V „ ,. « ,-' !■■ I f V. CHAPTER VII. ♦-;; r.,. 'S -i. '■ ■ ':/ Passage to New York. Having arranged my business, and fixed upon a plan of cor

' ter which we had a fine view of Long Island, Staten Island, Che > " bay, and numerous vessels inward bound. The breeze continued light, so that it was 4 o'clock bdbre we received a pilot ; ail^r which we came to anchor five or six miles south-east of the light- house. This pilot gave us information regarding the death of John Peirce, the seaman who was killed by a shot from the Lean- der { and told us that he had been on board several coasting vessels himself which had been fired at by the Cambrian and Leander, on the conduct of whose officers he reflected in very bitter terms. On the morning of the 4th we set sail, but the breeze died away in a short time, and we again came to anchor within half a mile of the beach, a little to the south of the light-house. At 11 a small • breeze sprung up fi'om the south, and we again weighed anchor. At half past 12 we passed the light-house, and, the breeze increa^^- ing, we continued our course at a good rate, much gratified with the prospect round us. Staten Island, rising to a considerable el&. vation, and clothed with verdure, was right ahead. Long Island >» *.i * , ( ' .4 '^■\ j A"' 1 ij Vi >? -s i--<4--' f^ 56 TRAVELS IN was on out right, with a pretty view of the Narrows between them } the high lands of Never Sink, astern, and the high lands of the Jerseys to the westward ; w'th the great confluence of waters, and crowded shipping formed altogether a most beautiful picture: and it probably made a greater impression upon me than it would had I arrived direct from Europe,-^the dull scenery of Georgia and South Carolina acting as a foil. At half past two we passed the Narrows, the channel between Long Island and Staten Island, about three quarters of a mile broAd ; and immediately after New York, distant about 10 miles, with the bay and shipping, opened to our view; which had a very fine effect. At half past 3 we arrived at the quarantine ground, which is beautifully situated on a small buy on the east side of Sat- ten Island, and having got a pass from the health officer, we set sail for New York. I was very much gratified with the view, in our passage upward. There are several islands in the bay, and the scenery on each side is really beautiful ; the city too is adorned with a number of spires, which have a fine effect, and in approach- ing it we passed a pretty point, planted with trees, called the Bat- tery. But we could not land at the city. By the health laws, all cotton, afler a certain season, must be landed at Brooklyn, on Long Island ; at which we arrived at 6 o'clock in the evening. From tlience I passed over to the city ; and immediately waited on Mr. Stewart, a native of Perth, in Scotland, and an old acquaintance ; from whom, and his amiable wife, I received a most friendly wel- come, and a kind invitation to spend the summer with them, which was cordially accepted. : ...i , •?!..; V 'i : CHAPTER VIII. -f^ • '• ' ■■■ ■' 'k'.j New York. >i^ l'> ! '^- ■"I'i ">^^ rN EW YORK is situated on the south-west point of York island, at the confluence of Hudson and East rivers, in north latitude 40° 40'. The length of the city on East river is nearly two miles ; and it extends along the north river nearly as much. Its average breadth is about one mile, and its circumference six. It consists of about 15,000 houses, including public buildings and ware-houses ; and the inhabitants are estimated at about 80,000. By the census NEW YOnK. 57 of 1800, they amounted to 60,489, but the increase has beeil very great since.* Tlie houses are generally built of brick, with slated or shingled roofs ; and many of them are handsome. The plan of the city is not uniform. In the 6ld part of the town some of the streets are crooked, and many of them are too narrow ; but all the modern part is built on a good plan ; and some of the new streets are uncommonly elegant. Broadway is the finest street in the city, and from its importance and great beauty it merits a particular description. It commences at the Battery, on the south - west point of the city, and runs in a north-east direction about two miles and a half, where it forms a junction with the Bowery road. The breadth of this street, including the side pavements, is about 80 feet, and it is regidar, during its whole length. It is ornament- ed with rows of poplar trees on each side, and a number of public buildings are situated on it, particularly the Custom-house, Trinity church, St. Paul's church, the city public buildings, the Mechanics' Hall, and the Hospital. The street rises by a gradual ascent from the Battery, about half f* mile, and is, at its greatest elevation, opposite the city buildings. Its course is through the highest part of the island. Greenwich-street is next in importance: it rises also at the Battery, and, running nearly due north upwards of two miles, connects the city with the village of Greenwich. — Pearl-street is one of the most important in the city, in point of trade; it rises also near the Bat- tery, and runs nearly parallel with the East river to Cherry-street ; from thence it runs to the northward, and falls into Chatham-street, f Cherry-street is a continuation of Pearl-street, and runs along the East river till it is terminated by a bend of the river. — Bowery- lane is upwards of 100 feet wide, rises at Chatham-street, and, con- nected with the Boston road, forms a junction with Broadway, as before mentioned. The other most important streets are Wall- street, where the most of the banks and public offices are situated, Chatham-street, where the theatre is situated, Front-street, Water- street, and Broad-street. That part of the city which has been recently laid out on East ri- ver is constructed on a handsome plan, the streets crossing one Ano- ther at right angles ; and there are several public squares. Of these there are by far too tew in the city, and they hardly merit notice. Tile Battery, before mentioned, is a pretty piece of ground, and * By the census of 1810, the whole inhabitants on tlie island amounted to 96,375. t Since 180G, Pearl-Stieet lias been extonded beyond Chatham-street, to Broadway. rH I it ,1/ r * * :ii 4r ■S.i| ''•1 >^ n .^,,^„ji*»«*" *r 1 58 TRAVELS IN commands an elegant view of the bay, islands, narrows, and shipping; but it is quite small, consisting of a few acres only. There is a small triangular piece of ground, called the Park, in front of the public buildings, which is very ornamental ; and these are all the public walks of which New York can boast. Would it not be well, in laying out cities, to make a large reserve of public property, while land is cheap ? Hyde Park at London, the Green of Glasgow, and tlie Inclu!s of Perth, are instances of its utility. The public buildings are numerous. The first in importance is the City Hall, fronting the Park ; it is now erecting, of white mar- ble, and will, when finished, be the most elegant building in Ame- rica, and few in Europe will surpass it. The others are Federal Hall, Custom- House, College, Coffee-House, Mechanics' Hall, Theatre, Hospital, Prison, Bridewell. There are seven episcopal churches, five presbyterian, two Dutch, three methodist, two baptist, two quaker meeting-houses, one German, one Lutheran, and one French Calvinistic church, one scceder, one Scots reformed church, one church each for universalists, congregationalists, Moravians, and Africans, and one Jewish synagogue. There are five public markets in the city, of which the principal is the Fly-market ; and these are well supplied with wholesome pro- visions, vegetables, fruit and fish ; and the prices are generally rea- sonable. A few of them may be quoted. Beef, mutton, and veal, 9 to 12 cents* per pound; a turkey 75; a goose 62; ducks and lowls about 25 each ; eggs 14- per dozen ; butter 22 per lb. ; tea — souchong 75, hyson 125; coffee 20 per lb.; sugar 12, refined 20* Bread is regulated by flour, which is at present 8 dollars per bar- rel. Fish and fruit plenty and cheap. Madeira wine 2^ dollars per gallon ; claret 3 dollars per dozen ; brandy, rum, and gin, 1 i dollars per gallon. There are a number of schools in the city, and the college, in which two of the professors are Scotsmen, is reckoned a very excel- lent seminary of education. To the north of the city, near Green- wich, stands the state-prison, modelled upon the plan of that of Philadelphia ; and it is said to be one of the most benevolent insti- tutions ever established in any country. ' " The city is well situated for trade. Having a spacious harbour, and easy access to the ocean at all seasons of the year, and being in a central situation in the Unt«:ed States, it must necessarily al- * A dollar exchanges at 4$. cd. sterling; and a cent is a fraction more than a halfpenny. 'X ■-■■'■■■'■ ( ^i' ■- ■■'■» i t ■' " I >if^ - NEW YORK. 59 ways command a large share of the Ibrcign trade of the country ; and, having the command of Hudson's River, nnvi«rable with iis branches upwards of 200 miios, and the East River, with Long Is- land Sound, it has a great share of the internal trade of Jersey, of Vermont, of Connecticut, of Rhode Island, and of Massachusetts ! besides the whole of the fertile •nterior country, which, on the other hand, furnishes every kind of produce and provisions by an easy water carriage, and at a retuionable rate. ' , » Th.e exports from New York amounted, in ISOo, to 23,582,202 dollars, of which ISjiSijSSS dollars was foreign produce. The imports probably amount to upwards of 25,000,000 ; but it is to be observed that New York exports and imports a great portion of the commodities of other states. The situation of New York I should reckon very healthy ; yet it is sometimes dreadfully afflicted with sickness ; which circumstance, 1 am rather inclined to thuik, arises from a defect in the police, which does not seem to be conducted in a manner becoming the wealth and splendour of this fine city. The buildings are, in many places, too crowded : many of the whai-ves are ill constructed, and some of the docks project into the city, especially fi om the East ri- rer, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants. The common sew- ers arc incomplete, and there is no supply of fresh water to sweeten and purify the streets ; but, beyond all, they have adoptetl the sys- tem of sinking necessaries, which accumulates s0ti a collection of latent filth, that the steams of it are sometimes perceptible at two miles distance. I soon got well acquainted with New York, and was much pleas- ed with the affability and polite deportment of the inhabitants. The gentlemen whom I had occasion to see were mostly merchants, who are distinguished as men of business ; and generally so well acquainted with the nature of their own trade, that they can tell the value of a piece of goods almost as correctly as a Manchester or Glasgow manufacturer. The female society are polished and weU bred ; they have not, generally speaking, that florid glow of health for which the Scottish ladies are distinguished ; but they are, I think, fully as handsome in their persons and features. I heard but little politics among those with whom I associatc-d ; but I observed a good deal in the newspapers, and two of them were very coarse and scurrilous. They were on differsnt sides of the political question, of course, and substituted abusive language 'P-:- i'^n 4 ^r- > ; f.'i / ' '-•:, *#0 TRAVELS IN ;> I nud personal declamation for reasoning. When a person looks in- to a newspaper, it is to seethensws of tl»e day, of which there is ge- nerally a summary in the leading paragraph ; but, contrary to every thing I had ever seen before, one of these papers began by abusing a cotcniporary, and the other returned the compliment, with inte- rest. I notice this circumstance bccnuse it made a forcible impres- sion upon me, and because similar circumstances are olten resorted to in Britain, to represent the free press in America as in the last stage of depravity. A free press is a great national blessing ; but, like the best medicines, it becomes a most deadly poison by abusing it An editor of a public paper assumes a most important station in society ; his sentiments spread far, and have a groat influence up- on the public mind; he is responsible for every word he publishes; and it is not enough ihat he adhere to truth himself; he is bound to take care that none other publish falsehood through the medium of his paper : a regard to the public good also requires that truth should be promulgated in decent language ; and nothing should be introduced into a public paper, with which the public have nothing to do. Whenever the personal feelings of the editor have a tenilency to violate this rule, they should be immolated on the altar of public decorum. Party politics is here as well as in Britain, a noisy subject ; and the question between the parties not being well defined, it is difficult to understand ii| From the best account of it which I could pro- cure, the schism seems to have taken place about the time of the a- doption of the federal constitution, which gave rise to very animat- ed discussions, in which those who were in favour of it were styled federalists, and those opposed to it antifederalists. It now receives the approbation of the whole community ; but the distinction of parties continues, under the names oi federalists and democrats. They equally lay claim to the title oi republicans, and are often styled^- deral republicans and democratic republicans. It was in vain that I looked for a satisfactory account of the matter in the New York pa- pers which I had an opportunity of seeing : but I observed in one of them that the federalists were styled the disciples of Washington, and the democrats the supporters of Jefferson. I thought I would discover the difference in the declared opinions of these two emi- nent characters. I accordingly turned to general Washington's Farewel Address, and Mr. Jefferson's Inaugural Speech ; but the sentimenti inculcated in these two papers appeared to me to be pre- \ > NEW YORK. 61 cisely the same. The one recognizes popular government, and re- commends union, obcifioiue to the laws, religion and morality, awd to keep party spirit wiihin bounds; the otiier declares that the will of the majority, legally expressed, is the law of the land; and re- commends harmony and affection, with the free exercise of reason, of religion and of the press. Professing to act under these senti- ments, it is somewhat singular that there should be a difference at all ; but, to use the words of one of the characters above alluded to, " every difference of opinion is not a difference of principle," and the political question may be considered as essentially different from what it is in Britain. In Britain the question between •whig and tory is whether the controuling power shall be vested in the people or in the crown. In America it is whether it shall be vested in this or that set of men. Having merely glanced at this subject, I shall dismiss it witli a fervent wish lor the total extinction of all party spirit, the more to be desired in the United States, as party distinctions are apt to divert the public attention from objects of real practical utility, while the difference in principle among good men is so 9mall, that they should be " all republicans, all federalists." On the 20th of August, I was introduced to that celebrated character, Thomas Paine. He was confined in New York by u hurt in his leg, and lived in the house of ajifrs. Palmer, widow of the late deistical minister in that city. HPoe gentleman who introduced me was well acquainted with mr. Paine, and I was politely received as his friend. Paine was sitting in a small a- partment, with a number of newspapers before him ; and be gave one of them to my friend to read some paragraphs relative to the negociations for peace between I3ritain and France. In the mean time, I cast my eyes across the table, and, from some MSS. which lay on it, judged he was writing on the subject of religion. The title of one of the pieces was singular, namely, " It is I, Thomas Paine, that speaketh." I could only see a word here and there of what followed ; but, by the scope of it, I presumed that it was some sort of religious creed. I was afterwards informed that it really was so, and that he intended it should be published after his death. When my friend had finished reading the news- papers, they entered into conversation, in which Paine declared decidedly, tliat there would be no peace. " The war," he ob- served, « must inevitably go on till the government of England ■M i ,' \h v- I i iV k\f) \l 62 TltAVBIJ IN £ell ; for it was radically and systcmaticttlly wrong, and altogcdicr incompatible with the prcM^nt stute of society." I reminded him, that there was now a whig administration in Britain, who would institute a reform of abuses, cause the constitution to be acted on in its purity, and probably repair all the mischief that had been done by the tory administrations. He shook his head, and said that he knew the English government well, and was convinced that no man, or set of men, would ever be able to reform it > the system was wrong, and it never would be set right without a revolution, which was as certain as fate, and at no great distance in time. Finding we difiered on this point, I changed the subject, and took notice of a little essay which he had written on the yellow fever, which had been published in the newspapers, and attracted considerable attention in the southern states. He seemed to be pleased with this, and, in the course of conversation on the sub- ject, discovered a good deal of that literary vanity of which he liRsbeen accused; but it must be acknowledged, that this little piece contains much valuable information. The arguments are ingenious — to me, indeed, quite convincing ; and I have conversed with some of Mr. Paine' s most strenuous political opponents, whq Jiave viewed tliem in the same light. ,..■-, -. Paine is a slei^Ur nian, rather tall, and has an uncommonly penetrating eye,«BUs face is subj^t to a scorbutic eruption, which circumstance has probably contributed to propagate the report, that he is habitually intemperate ; but I was informed by those who knew him well, that it is not correct. When ho meets with a person of his own way of thinking, he will frequent* ly indulge himself to a late hour over a glass of toddy ; but sel^ dom carries it to excess. His income is but small ; but he is ii^ independent circumstances, having a tract of land, for which he could obtain ten thousand dollars. He is pleasant in conversa-f tion, and speaks very much in the style he writes, quite clear imd perspicuous. The following table will afford an idea of the summer lye^- ther at New York. August 4, Clear, temperate. Aug. 8. Clear, do. r, 5. Bain, do. :. i d. Do. temperate. 'u * . 6. Clear, warm. 10. Cloudy, do. h>.^ ,"^ 1, Do. do. ;11. Clear, do. f * ■Mi l ' .llW X — • r' KBW YORK. 03 Aug. 12. Cloudy, 13. Do. do. Aug. 20. Clear, pleasant. . 4«l 21. Do. wonn. U. Do. 15. Showers, cJo. 22. Cloudy, lultry. do. 23. Rain, thunder, warm. 16. Rain, 17. Cloudy, ' 18. Clear, sultry*. ' * 24. Rain, stormy, cold, do. ' • ' 1 25. Clear, warm, pleasant. 26. Do. -^ 19. Do. do. ''' '' '■ ' ' : ■ : ' .' " . , -, "' , ' (, CHAPTER IX. Long Island Sound, — Newport, — Providence, flAVING judged it expedient to take a journey into the Ne\v England states, I engaged a passage on board a Providence packet, and we set sail, at four o'clock, on the afternoon of the 26th of August. Our company consisted of a gentleman and three ladies from New York, two ladies and two children from New{K)rt, a baptist preacher, a printer, and a major. I soon found out that the major would be an excellent travelling companion, and resolved to humour him accordingly. He was very frank and familiar, and we soon became acquainted ; and on exchang- ing civilities, we found we would have occuin to be together tor some time, which we resolved to improve tvP^ best advantage; and we extracted not a little amusement from our adventures, at will be seen anon. ' ; . We proceeded up East River with a fine easy breeze, and had a delightful view of the banks on each side, which are well wooded, and adorned with many degant villas, belonging chiefly to the merchants of New York. Six miles above New York, w^; passed Hell Gate, a very singular passage, about 300 or 400 yards in breadth, having u ledge of sunken rocks across it in an angu- lar direiition, which occasions many whirlpools and cross currents in the water. These, at certain periods of the tide, make a dread- ful noise, and render a passage impracticable ; but at other time* the water is smooth, and a passage easy. Soon after passing Hell Gute, we entered Long Island sound, and had a fine view. Our company seemed social, and disposed • It was only a part of those daj» iiiarkcd stiltry, that I felt disagreeably warm. ■I 4 . f^ ^l it \ U '^•^. p . 64 TRAVELS IN i\ X yt /I t ^ to be happy. Tlie weather wan agreeably warm, and we enjoyed ourselves on deck, wliere we had a inimlicr of 6ne songs, in which a Newport young liidy excelled. I'owards evening the breeze died away, when we were about 30 miles from New York. August 27. Early this morning we took a fair wind, which carried us along at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour. The Round widens gradually to the middle, where it is al)out 25 miles broad; but the day being clear, we had a fine view on both sides of it. On the Connecticut side, the coast is lined with cle« gant towns, adorned with spires, and the view is very pleasing. Our ladies continued to charm us with their songs, and the major and I were much diverted by a singular courtship, in which the chief agent was a book. '> We observed, that our printer paid a good deal of attention to the Newport young lady, the sweet singer. Taking advantage of her taste for poetry and music, he produced his book, and read a sentimental cfliisioii to the lady ; and while she was expressing her approbation, he let his hand touch hers, as if by accident. They turned over to another piece, and the lady read on, till she came to a passage with which she seemed to be quite delighted. " Is'nt that beautiful ?" said the gentleman, laying his hand gently upon hers. " Beautiful, indeed," exclaimed the lady. " I'll show you something," said he, " still more forcible upon the same subject : I beg you'll b'^ '^4M| ma'am." The lady was seated. He deliver- ed the book with otto hand, and, laying hold of hers with the other, sat down be«ide her. — She read on. •* This is really beau- tiful," said she. " Most beautiful, indeed," said he, and seized this opportunity to put one hand gently round her waist, while he helped her to hold the book with the other. Tlius they went on from piece to piece, and from sentiment to sentiment, to the great vex> ation of the major, who was quite chagrined that the printer should engross the lady wholly to himself, and deprive the com- pany of her agreeable songs and conversation. About four o'clock in the afternoon, we approachetl the head of the bound ; where, being near the Connecticut side, we had a fine view of New London, appropriately situated on a river called the Thames. Nearly opposite to New London, we passed between two very small islands, within a few yards of each other, and entered a curious passage, called the Race, being the outlet of the sound. There is a chain of islands, which runs across this outlet in aa an- re enjoyed , in which the breeze »rk. ind, which lour. The at 25 mile* (T on both 1 with ele- ry pleasing, d the major I which the attention to advantage of ;, and read a cpressing her dent. They till she came ited. "Is'nt 1 gently upon ril show you i,ame subject : He deliver - lers with the i really beau- and seized jist, while he went on from le great vex- tt the printer rive the corn- ed the head of we had a fine iver called the id between two , and entered of the sound, lutlet in an an- LONG ISLAND SOUND. 65 gular direction, and they consequently confine the water into narrow channels, so that tho tide, at ebbing and flowing, runs with great violence. We pnsscd it with a light brtc/r, and the current against us, and consoqiiontiy wi> rnndc but little progrexs; but we got out of h, and all (longer, before durk, ond proceeded with a light breeze towards Newport, now about HO niilen distant. On our arrival at the entrance of Narragnnstt buy, I observed a great quantity of shipping, principally stuall craft, nnd t\ as anxious to see this inlet, being esteemed one of the best in America ; but it was now 1 1 o'clock, and too dark to make observations, so I retired to bed } and in the morning, found the vessel nt the wharf in Newport. Newport is situated on the south-west point of llliodc Island, in latitude 4P 29'. It extends about a mile from north to south, along Narragansct bay, nnd in about one third of u mile in breadth, rising, as it proceeds from the water, by a considerable ascent. The streets cross one another at right angles, and arc all well paved. Tho number of inhabitants, by the census of 1800, was 6739, and the number of houses is obout 1100, chiefly built of wood, and painted white. Tho public buildings are a State- House, Academy, Public Library, four baptist churches, two for congregationalists, and one each lor episcopalians, quakcrs, Mo- ravians, and Jews. The situation of this city is beautiful, and tjjflbalubrity of the climate is proverbial, in consequence of which itbecomcs a gi'eat resort for strangers, particularly from the southern states, during the summer season. It is also noted for the excellent supply of provisions in its market, particularly of fish, of which there is said to be 50 or 60 different kinds. The packets which ply be- tween this- place and New York, and Providence, arc of great service to the city, and to the public. They are generally under excellent regulations, and aflbrd better accommodations and travel- ling at a cheaper rate than is to be found in most places of the world. The distance from hence to New York is about 200 miles, which we sailed in little more than 30 hours ; and the fare, in- cluding bed and provisions, was only nine dollars. From hence to Providence, SO miles, it is one dollar. Neport is a favourable situation for commerce, and has one of the most safe and commodious harbours in the world. On the op- posite side of the harbour is Goat Island, on which there is a fort and military station. The trade of Newport is principally in ship- 9 '**" I M %^i. i'it*»vnr'i.»r'rry- 66 TRAVELS IN h t If ^1' ping ; and there Is a manufactory of cotton, and oae of ducic, both of which are said to be in a thriving state. I took a walk round the town with the major, who was well ac- quainted with it ; and from the licights above it we had some fine views. After breakfast, we went on board the packet for Provi- dence. At half past 9 o'clock we got under weigh, but the wind being right ahead, we made little progress. The day however was fine, and the company agreeable ; and, being in no particular hurry, we enjoyed ourselves very much, sailing up this delightful bay. We had all our former company, except one of the ladies of New- port and her children. The other had also intended to stop at Newport ; but our printer had exerted his eloquence so effectually as to induce her to go to Providence, to see a friend, with whom she was to live during commencement. Having heard this term fre- quently made use of, I inquired into the meaning of it ; and wa» • informed that it is a public day, held at college, previous to the vacation, on which the stutlents deliver their orations and receive their degrees ; and it concludes with a ball, to which all the young ladies, for many miles round, are invited. After proceeding a few miles, I found we had a state-room full I of ladies, in addition to our former company. One of them came out to take the jw. She was a tall elegant girl, about 16 years of] age, with a comPficion and features uncommonly beautiful. The ma- jor and I guessed that she would immediately attract our printer'*! notice. We guessed right, f<)r while we were yet speaking, we saw him pull out his book, and make up to her. She war. standing beside the object of his first regard, whom he now turned his I back upon ; and, under pretence of showing the fine sentimental pieces in the book, went through the whole ceremony of touching hands, and «o tbrth. Our major was astonished, and wondered [ what could be about the man that he charmed the ladles so ; for he was by no racnns handsome. One of our company remarked that there was an herb in nature, called valerian, which had the re- 1 raarkable quality of charming the feline tribe; and perhaps there! might be some herb which produced a similar effect upon young I women, and that the printer must be in possession of it ; for h\ could account for his remarkable success in no other way. Thej major swore (he was a sad swearer) that this must be the true so- 1 lution^ and wondered if any such herbs were to be found in Geor- RHODE ISLANB. 6? I^a, as he ^ould purchase them at anj expense. But it appeared that this theory could not be altogether correct, for a small quan- tity of valerian will charm as many cats as a room will hold, where- as it appeared the printer could only charm one young lady at a time. The Newport lady, perceiving his attention to the stranger, withdrew from him, and we enjoyed part of her agreeable conver- sation, during the remainder of the passage. He vas but short- sighted in the exchange; for this lady, though not so beautiful as the other, had a great deal more animation, which rendered her more interesting; and she was possessed of a great deal of good sense. We had a number of fine songs and stories, and the day passed away most agreeably. Narraganset bay, up which we sailed, is 33 miles in length, from south to north, and, towards Newport, about 12 miles in breadth, including the islands which it embosoms, of which the principal are, Rhode Island, Canonicut, Prudence, Patience, Hope, Dyer's, and Hog Island. It receives the waters of Pro- vidence, Taunton, and Patuxet risers ; and contains five harbours, besides those of Newport and Providence. Its banks are clad with settlements, and there are a number of pretty little towns, the view of which, from the water, has a fine effect. At 6 o'clock we reached Providence, where we saw a good deal of shipping, and I was surprised to find a vessel there of upwards of 900 tons burden. I was informed that she was in the E^ India trade, of which there is a considerable share at this port^ and thet there would be a sale of India goods next day. The major, who had often travelled this way, conducted me to a boarding-house, where having engaged lodgings, we went out to take a view of the town, with which he was well acquainted. The ground rises to a considerable elevation above the town, from whence we had a fine view; and we returned to our lodgings high- ly pleased wich the excursions of this day. Providence is beautifully situated on the head of Narraganset bay, and is divided into two parts by the Providence river, over which there is a good bridge, with a draw in it, to allow vessels to pass. The west side of the town is low, but the east side rises, by a rapid ascent, to a considerable elevation. The number of in- habitants, in 1800, was 76 1*, and they are rapidly increasing.* The public buildings are, a court-house, market-house, a public * 3y the census of 1310, thej aro 10,071. to v \ V >. yr4^ *x Ml ■0 ■■33ffc«iiw, ifct .^f y '-- ^ - ■4i^ \,.. .»ii* v-^ -'>rK. 1 68 TRAVELS IN school-house, a baptist inecting>housc, a quakcr mccting-liouse, and three congregational churches. There is an extensive college situated on the hill, and commanding a fine view of the town, bay, shipping and country for many miles round. The building is of brick, with a slated roof, 150 feet long, 46 wide, and four stories high ; and contains lodgings lor upwards of 100 students. It has a valuable philosophical apparatus, and a Ubrary containing upwards of 3000 volumes. ... : ^ Providence has a pretty extensive shipping trade, and several manufactories are establised in the town and neighbourhood, which are said to be in a thriving state. Being now about to leave this little interesting Qtato, I sh^H de- vote a chapter exclusively to a geogrnphical description of it, which plan I intend to follow in the course of my travels. For the necessary information on this branch, as well as the description of cities, towns, and rivers, I must be indebted, in a great measure, to the researches of those who have gone before me ; but I shall arrange the subject on a new plan,which may admit of considerable variety, and have the beneficial effect of maturing my own judg- ment on American geography. To American manners and education I shall pay a little extra attention, because I begin to find that I have been labouring under considerable prejudices concerning them. It is very com- mon for the nativlb of Britain to set up their own country as the model of all perfection, and to doubt the existence of equal ad- vantages any where else ; and to no country has that doubt been more extended than to the United States of America. It is real- ly surprising to see, that notwithstanding the great intercourse between the two countries, there should be so much ignorance, or rather misinformation, in Britain, regarding America ; and it is to this circumstance that I attribute my own prejudices ; for as to what are called natural prejudices, I disclaim them. I have no wish to see things otherwise than as they are; and I am very glad to observe that this people have a polish of manners, and speak a style of language, which must be the result of education, at least equal to what exists in Britain. And this does not appear to be confined to the sea-port towns : the couutry, in ttiis quarter^ is thickly settled with a civilized, industrious people. ^'-n^ , »L mt,tM ' ** '' - *0pt "^ -*^-ll ■ '*-t^%> , .—.»«... KHODjC ISLAND. 6d CHAPTER X. " Rhode Island, • v Rhode island is situated between 41° 22' and 42" north latitude, and 5" and 5° 50' east longitude*, being 45 miles in length, and 43 in breadth, anu contains 1548 square miles, or 990,720 acres. The face of the country is agreeably uneven, some places be- ing hilly, but not mountainous. Narragansct, already mentioned, is the principal bay. The rivers all flow into this bay, and have been already noticed. Iron ore is found in great plenty, and the state abounds with limestone and marble. Some copper ore and load-stone have al- so been found ; and there are several mineral springs, but of no great importance. The soil is various, and a great part of it good, though better adapted for grazing than for grain. The climate is salubrious and healthy ; but the winters are sometimes long and severe, commencing in November, and ending in March or April. There is a very short spring, but the sum- mer and autumn are delightful. Volney remarks on this subject, " Were I obliged to select the most favourable spot in America as the place of my abode, my ci:oice would fall upon the southern point of Rhode Island." The first settlement was commenced in the year 1 636, by Roger Williams, a banished clergyman from Massachussets; and the state was chiefly peopled by emigrants from that country. In 1663, a charter was obtained froni Charles II, which is the basis of the present constitution. The country suffered greatly during the revolutionary war ; but it is now in a thriving state, increasing in population and wealth. It sends two senators and two reprct sentatives to congressf . The state is divided into five counties and thirty townships, and * I have adopted the American mode of making Washington the first meridian. It accords best with the map, and is calculated to give a better idea of the relative si- tuation of the different places in the country than tlie meridian of London. t Representatives are sent to congress' according to the populaUoq, one for every 33,000. Each state sends two senators. . , . 7 .•■- '. \ 1 ■:,i ♦ I T I V. ■ i i ' r- 70 TRAVELS IN ■- I * j U / ^ the inhabitants amount to 69,122% including S80 slaves; being about 45 to the square mile. The country is well improved, abounding with towns, villages, and farm-houses. The chief towns are Providence and Newport, already mentioned. The others are, South Kingston^ situated on the west side of Narraganset Bay, nearly opposite Newport, and contains 3000 inhabitants. Bristol is pleasantly situated on the bay, about half way between Providence and Newport, and con- tains 1678 inhabitants. It has a little shipping trade. Warren is a flourishing little town, containing about 1600 inhabitants. It is on the west side of the bay, on the Warren River, and car- ries on a brisk coasting and foreign trade. Little Compton, East Greenwich, and Compton, are also growing towns. The state is supplied with good roads and bridges, some of which have been constructed on an ingenious plan, and at great expense. No canals have yet been made, but several are projected. The farms are generally well cultivated, and produce Indian corn, rye, barley, oats, wheat, (though not enough for home consump- tion,) fruits in great abundance, and culinary vegetables. Butter, cheese, and cyder, are made in great quantities, and of a superior quality. The manufactures are cotton and linen goods, bar and sheet iron, steel, nails, anchors and other iron work for shipping, sail- cloth, paper, rum, &c. The cotton manufacture is extending, and I was. informed that some of those engaged in it were doing well ; but it is yet in its infancy, and, being subject to a compe- tition with the organized manufactures of Britain, it must be at-* tended with a considerable degree of inconvenience, and perhaps some risk. This state is very favourably situated for commerce, of which it has a large share. The exports are grain, flaxseed, lumber, horses, cattle, beef, pork, flsh, poultry, onions, butter, cheese, spirits, and cotton and linen goods. The value of exports is a- bout 1,000,000 dollars annually. The imports are European and India manufactures, West India produce, and logwood. The inhabitants of the country are generally proprietors of the farms they cultivate, and, having no landlord to make their boo to, nor rent to pay, they must be independent. The inhabi- • The nuiaber of inhabitants is by the cwuus of 1800, unless where otherwis« •ipraiBed. -^r vhere otherwi»» MASSXeHUSBTTS. 71 tanU of the towns are merchants, manufacturers, mechanics, sea- men, and fishermen. The lands are not entailed, and hence there is no aristocracy ; but independence is easily attained by labour. There is no distinction made on account of religious opinions ; but every man worships God in any way his conscience dictates, without interfering with his civil rights. There are seve- ral benevolent and useful societies in the state^ among which may be noticed one " for the abolition of the slave-trade, and for the improvement of the African race." The state of education is said to ba considerably behind that of the other New England states, but is improving. The chief seminary is the college at Provi- dence, already mentioned ; and there is an academy at Newport, under good regulations, besides various seminaries throughout the state. The state legislature consists of a governor, deputy governor, ten senators, and a representative from each township. They are chosen by the pepole twice every year, and they hold two sessions annually. CHAPTER XL y Providencei — Dedhanit — Boston. ^. .. j A HElR,E is a rule in travelling this road, that i^ on the arrival of the packet, there are three passengers going on to Boston, the stage is bound to go with them at any hour. There were four of us who agreed to go at 5 o'clock in the morning, and we constituted the major master of the ceremonies, to make the necessary arrange- ment with the landlord. We accordingly rose very early to take our places ; but, lo ! after waiting a full half hour, there was no stage toJbe seen, and the major began to suspect the landlord of insince- rity. By-and-by he lost all patience, and began to swear most bit- terly ; he went in search of the landlord, but there was no landlord to be seen ; nor, mdeed, any of the domestics. However, it was impossible that they could be long proof against the eflPect of the major's lungs, for he bellowed forth the most dreadful oaths and imprecations that I ever heard, and soon alarmed the servants ; but they could not satisfy the major, who " Roar'd a horrid murder shouts In droadfu' desperation." { t'i ■;? '(: Ifo ,^fc— • I ■\ -li f.;. 72 TRAVELS IN for the landlord, who at last made his appearance ; and the major, with a thundering menace, demanded where the stage was. He rubbed his eyes, and was going to make a reply, but he had not time; for the major held forth fully half an hour in a strain of elo- quence peculir to gentlemen of the sea or the sword, and which could hardly find a parallel in the curses wherewithal Dr. Slop cursed Obadiah, on the day in which he tied the knots on his instru- ment-bag. At last the storm abated a little, and the landlord got leave to speak ; but he only made matters worse, for he blundered out that the stage would not go before eight o'clock. The land- lord had, in truth, attempted to Jockeij us. An additional compa- ny was to go at eight o'clock ; and he and the stage owner, between whom there was a collusion, thought that, notwithstanding the a- greement with us, the stage could easily accommodate both ; and a few hours, in point of time, was immaterial. But, oh ! for the pencil of a Hogarth, to delineate the features of the major when this fact came out. Mercy on us ! how he did fume and rage, and stamp and curse ! At last he made a spring toward the landlord, and, shaking his cane over his head, swore if he did not bring the stage immediately, he would have satisfaction out of his bones. The landlord get alarmed, and ran as if the devil had been in pursuit of him, and the major, having spent his rage, stood mute. The land- lord had not been long gone before a gentleman came up to the house and asked if we were going to Boston, and, on being answer- ed in the affirmative, he told us that he had a new stage, which he ^ould start instantly, provided there were three passengers. This was most delightful news for the major, who told him we would go, pro- vided the stage was brought in ten minutes, so as to disappoint the landlord. An elegant new stage, with good horses, drew up before the door in a few minutes, and, having paid a very moderate bill to the landlady, who, the major observed, was the better man qfj/ie two, wc got into the carriage. While we w ere seating ourselves,, up came the landlord with the other stage, and the major detained us a few minutes to get a parting word with him. " Now^ you ras- cal«"^ay^ he, " you thought to play a Yankee trick upon me ; but this is diamond cut diamond for you I" The landlord began to enter a complaint against us for leaving the stage ; but he was stop- ped short by the major, who exclaimed, " Oh ! you rascal, I de- light in disappointing you : I would not for a thousand — ay, not for ten thousand dollars have wanted this satisfaction. I know money MASSACHUSETTS. 73 will procure any thing; and I have got nioro thun ever you saw, yon vagabond." So saying, he onlcred the driver to proceed. We travelled but slowly, owing to the road being very bad. We learned that the people oi' Maasnchusetts had ofiered to extend the turnpike to Providence, but the people of this state would not agree to it ; and thus the road remained almost impassable. The morn- ing was hazy, so that we could see but little of the country; but it appeared to be indifferently cultivated. We saw great quantities of fruit by the way side; and several waggons, loaded with apples, were on their way to Providence, The salutation which the major gave the landlord occasioned a good deal of merriment ; and one of our company observed that he could put him upon a plan of swearing by rule, by which means ke could save him a great deal of trouble, and wear and tear of con- science, in coining oaths. He accordingly produced the anathema of Ernulphus, recorded in the Lite and Opinions of Tristram Shan- dy, which he read aloud, to the great astonishment of the major, and diversion of the company. About four miles from Providence, we passed Patucket river, and entered into the state of Massachusetts. Here there are very handsome falls, and a little town called Patucket, in which there is a thriving manufactory of cotton yarn and goods. The spin- ning works are said to be on the most approved principle, and there are several looms going by machinery. ; ,. « We were informed that the cotton trade had been introduced here by a gentleman from England, a pupil of Arkwright, who had been very successful; that other people were following his example, and that this branch was likely to increase to a great extent in this district. I doubted the power of the people here to become competitors with the manufacturers of England ; but I learned that they confine themselves pretty much to coarse goods,' and articles of the first necessity; and on turning the whole information, relative to the subject, in my mind, I i^:>und that they had such a number of circumstances in their fa\'our, as were sufficient to balance, if not to overcome, the disadvantages. , The principal disadvantage is the high wages which must be paid to the workmen ; and it is supposed that the people have a pre- (leliction for agriculture, which has a tendency to prevent them from settling at sedentary employments. This last circumstance is the popular opinion in Britain, and I was impressed with its 10 H ■i#y/| f y I 74 TRAVELS IN reality myself; but after looking round rae in this country, I nt- thcr think that it is more specious than solid ; for I find there i« no want of masons, carpenters, smiths, tanners, shoemakers, hat- ters, taylors, and other mechanics, none of which are agricultural employments. All these and other branches are organized and practised with persevering industry, because the profits resulting from them are equal to those resulting from agriculture; and other branches will be subject to the same rule. In every com- munity there are a great number of the members who are better adapted for labour in the house than in the field ; and the force of this remark is peculiarly applicable to the cotton trade, in which a large portion of the labour is performed by machinery, and the remainder principally by women and children. But all labour is better paid for in America than in Britain. The pro- portion is probably two to one; and if the cotton trade will afford this advance to the labourers, it will bear a competition with similar manufacturers of Britain, and prosper — not else. The most stiiking circumstance in favour of the cotton manu- factures is the cheapness of the raw material, which is the pro- duce of the United States. They manufacture here principally upland cotton, and the price, including carriage to this place. Is about 20 cents per pound*; being about 12 cents lower than they can possibly have it in Britain. The next circumstance is the heavy charges to which British manufactured goods are subject before they eome into the American market. These may be reckoned at least equal to 45 per cent. : namely, carriage, in- surance, and shipping charges, 5 per cent; American duties, 16^ per cent. ; importer's profit, 10 per cent j American merchant's ]) refit and contingencies, 14| per cent. Now, suppose lOOlbs of cotton to be manufactured into cloth, of a fabric that will sell at about one shilling sterling in Britain, the number of yards will be about 300 ; and by producing this in the American market, subject to these different charges, it will afford a data whereby we may calculate the price that can be af- forded to the manufticturer in America; and from thence we may determine the probable increase of the cotton manufacture. It is to be observied that the demand for cotton goods in America is immense, and there is no material competition, except with Brit- ish manufacturers. ft:i It is now (1812) only 12 or 13 cents. t 75 ^4-10 MASSACBUSBTTS. lOOlbs of cotton purchased in the southern states of America, at 18 cts. is in sterling Shipping charges, freiglit, and merchant's profit, 3d. per pound . British duty Nearly 16d. per pound 300 yards of cloth at l<;i per yard, is Leaving fur the various branches of manufacture j£ 8 7 4> This cloth sent to America, costs in Britain Charges before enumerated, 45 per cent. je21 15 Suppose the /same fabric manufactured in America. The cotton cobts, in the southern states, at 18 cents per pound dot, 18 Carriage and charges, at 2 cents per pound 2 . 1 1 5 6 8 £ 6 12 8 jei5 £ 8 7 4 jei5 £ 6 15 Price of raw material dol. 20 Value of similar cloth imported from Britain jfi21 15, is , , V, 96 57 Leaving for the various branches of manufacture doL 76 57 Or sterling jfi 16 4 7 Being nearly double the price paid to the British manufacturer. It will be observed too, by this calculation, that th» cotton is taken at its extreme height, and for every cent that it falls, the proportional advantage to the American manufacturer is increas- ed; because a great part of the difference consists in duties and charges, which are not materially affected by the fall. It is my opinion, upon the whole, that the cotton manufacture will increase in America ; and that it holds out a very good in- ducement for men of capital to embark in it. We were now in the state of Massachusetts and had an ex- cellent turnpike road, but being recently cut through a new coun- try, we had no great variety of scenery. The face of the country ^as agreeably uneven, but the land rather poor and stony.' ' \ '■^■: m 76 TRAVELS IN Twclvi' miles from Providence we stopped at tlie house of A colonel Mntch, the i)ropvietor of the utage, who was along with lis. 'i1ie house in new and commodious, and we got an excellent breiikfast, charge 50 cents. . • . , From tlience we travelled 22 miles to Dcdham. The country, from the reason already stated, is but thinly settled by the road- side. The face of the country is agreeably uneven, and we had many fine distant views. The road-side abounds with fruit, of which the traveller may gather as nmch as he pleases. Towards Dedham the country improves, and the inhabitants appeared healthy, and in comfortable circumstances. Dedijam is a handsome little village, eleven miles from Boston, consisting of between 3 and 400 houses, and containing about 1500 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood, and painted white. The public buildings are a court-house, three congregational churches, and an episcopal church. There are several grist and saw-mills in the neighbourhood ; and the inhabi- tants carry on a considerable manufacture of shoes and wire-work. From thence to Boston, the road goes through a beautiful country, abounding with villas and well-cultivated farms, and at a distance to the eastward are high lands approachuig nearly to mountains. Wherever I turned my eyes, I was delighted with the view; and being, like the vicar of Wakefield, " an admirer of happy faces," I was amply gratified by the appearance of the inliabitants, who were cleanly, industrious, and contented. The i'emale part of the community, in particular, appeared to great advantage, liaving a glow of health, an air of cheerfulness, and a cleanliness of aspect, that I have not seen surpassed. The country continued to improve as we proceeded towards Boston, in the immediate neighbourhood of which the buildings and pleasure-grounds are uncommonly elegant. We entered the town by the curious passage called the Neck, and drove up to the house of a Mr. Chappotin, in Summer-street, which we reached just in tinie for dinner. On entering the public room, I found about twenty gentlemen at the dinner-table, and I seated myself beside an elderly gentleman, in a strange dress, with a long beard, who I after- wards learned was the Tunisian ambassador. After dinner, I took a walk round the town with the major, who was well acquainted with it ; called upon my fellow-passenger in the Warrington, Mr. Ballard, who was glad to see me; and spent the evening at the boarding-house, much pleased with the excursions of the day. ■4 MASSACHUSETTS. 77 • Ir.. . t:\ CHAPTER XII. .' ' Boston^ — Salem. Boston is built on a peninsula, at the head of Massnchasctts Bay, in north Intitiidc 42° 23'. It is at one place two miles long, but the broadest part is not quite half a mile. A great |)art of the town lies low aloiifr the bay; but the ground rises to a con- siderable elevation in the miiUllc, where the State- 1 louse is built* which gives it a very handsome appearance at a distmice. The town partakes of the nature of tiiu old towns in England, and is irregularly built, many of the streets being crooked and narrow ; but the more modern part is regular, and the streets broad and well paved. The streets, lanes, and alleys amount to above 150; and there are five public squares ; but none of them are of great extent, except the Mall, which is a very elegant piece of public ground in front of the State-House. The number of dwelling-houses is above 3500, and, by the census of 1800, the inhabitants were 94,937; from the increase that has since taken place, it is presumed that the number In now upwards of 30,000.* The greater part of the houses are built of brick, and many of them are spacious and elegant. The public buildings are the State-House, Court-House, Joil, Concert- JIall, Faneuil-Holl, Alms- House, Work- House, and Bridewell ; the Museum, Library, Theatre, and nine congrega- tional, three episcopal, and two baptist churches, Avith one each for Roman catholics, methodists, and universalists. The public buildings are in general very handsome, aqd the greater part of the churches are ornamented with spires. The markets of Boston are well supplied with every kind of country provisions, fruit, and tish. The prices are not materially different from those of New York. Flour is generally a little high- er ; but cod-fish, which is the universal Saturday dinner, is lower. Boston is well situated for foreign commerce, of which it has a very large share. The harbour is spacious, and is capable of con- taining 500 sail of vesels. There are many wharfs constructed^ of which the most remarkable is Long Wharf , extending into the bay upwards of 1700 feet. The number of vessels that enter and clear * B/ the ccasus of 181Q, thejr were Z3fi&i, i' \ 78 TRAV2LS IN 1 ^ out annually is immense, currying on a trade to Europe, the East and West Indies, and China, bc»ide« a very cxteuHivc coasting trade. The exports annually from this port probably amount to upwards of 8,000,000 dollars. The |)rincipal mnnutactureb arc of iron, leather, paper and glass, which are brought to great maturity, in all tlic various brunches ; besides which, they have thriving ma- nufactories of hats, sail-cloth, cards, soap and candles, refined su- gar, spermaceti, ashes, &c. There arc ten distilleries, two brew- eries, eight sugar-houses, and several rope-walks in and about the town ; but one of the most important branches is ship-buildingi and the Bostonians seem generally more attached to the shipping trade than any other branch. There are in Boston three incorpo- rated banks, besides a branch of the United States' Bank, whose joint capitals amount to upwards of 3,000,000 dollars, and there are three or four intturance-ofHces, with capitals of 3 or 400,000 dollars each. There are a number of public societies in Boston, among which may be mentioned the American Academy of Arts and Sciences^ Massachusetts Historical Society, Boston Library Society,* Agri- cultural Society, Mechanic Society, Marine Society, Charitable Fire Society, Humane Society, Medical Society, Dispensary, and the Female Asylum. Public education is on an excellent footing; there are eight or nine public schools, supported at the expense of the town, which arc accessible to all the members of the commu- nity, free of expense : they are managed by a committee of twen- ty-one gentlemen, chosen annually, and are under good regula- tions. Besides these, there a number of private seminaries, at vrhich all the various branches of education are taught; and upon the whole, I believe Boston may challenge a conipetition on thii^ branch with any city in Europe, Edinburgh, in Scotland, perhaps, excepted. The fruits of this attention to the improvement of the mind, and the cultivation of the benevolent alfections, are very apparent in the deportment of the citizens of Boston, who are intelligent, sober, and industrious ; and, though much attached to the subject of re- ligion, they are more liberal, generally speaking, than any people I have yet been amongst. The ladies of Boston are generally han * An AthenKum Iikk since been ^tnblished, aod it probably thcnwst elegant Uterarj institution in America. ^, the East ivc coasting ^ amount to ctiires uro of :?at maturity, hriving ina> refined su- , two brew- id about the lip-building, the shipping ree incorpo- Bank, whose and tlicrc or 400,000 mong which rid ScienceSf it'ty,* Agri- , Charitable ipensary, and llent footing ; le expense of ' the commu- ittee of twen- good regula- eminaries, at :; and upon tition on thii^ tnd, perhaps, he mind, and )parent in the ligent, sober, subject of re? in any people nerally han St elegant Utcrar; MASSACHUSITTS. 79 some, with fine complexions ; and, judging from the sample which I ROW, they have a richness of intellect, and a cheerfulness of de- portment, that makes them truly interesting. Altogether, Boston it really a fine place. It was here that the revolution originated winch terminated in the independence of America : and the town is justly celebrated os being the birth-place of that great lumipary in literature and science, Dr. Franklin. During my stay in Doston, which was only a few doys, I went to a number of the public places ; among others the State*House, from whence there is a most elegant view of the town, bay, ship- ping, neck, bridges, and the whole country round, to the distance of from twelve to fifteen miles in each direction, presenting most picturesque scenery, including a number of elegant villages. In one direction you can see twenty miles out at sea, and in another a mountain, said to be distant sixty miles. The bridges of Boston merit particular attention, being works of great extent and utility, and constructed at a vast expense ; a proof of the sagacity and persevering industry of this people. "West Bos- ton bridge is upwards of 3000 feet long, and a causeway is connected with it 3000 more, connecting Boston with Cambridge. Charles River Bridge is 1500 feet long, and Maiden bridge is upwards of 2400 feet long : they are all built of wodU, and have draws in the middle : the toll is reasonable. LongWharf has already been noticed. The Muse- um contains a very good collection of natural and artificial curiosities. Tuesday, September 2d, at 8 o'clock in the morning, I set out by the stage for Salem, distant about seventeen miles. Afler crossing by Charles River Bridge, already noticed, we passed through Charlcstown, a handsome town, which is only separated from Bos- ton by Charles River. It contains about 3000 inhabitants, and has two places of public worship. The United States have a navy-yard und marine hospital here, and towards the west end of the town, close by the river side, is the State- Prison, on the same principle as as those at Philadelphia and New York, and said to be under ex- cellent management. At the north side of the town is Bunker's Hill, celebrated in the history of the American revolution. Leaving CharlestotMi, and travelling little more than a mile by the sea coast, we arrived at Mystic River, which we passed by a bridge ,2424 feet long, and constructed upon the same principle as those already mentioned. About four miles from thence we passed m extensive swamp, where we were assailed by musquetoes of a ve- ;{ rf»-«~^-. --«. -•x-.._*lBiii«»,,«5^i - -- ^■■J^^-' wvi -M 80 TRAVELS IN ■ (■ i !\ ry large size. At the farther end of the swamp we passed a floating bridge, and a little after, ascending the bank, we arrived at Lynn^ where we stopped to change horses at a very elegant tavern. Lyini is a pretty little town, remarkable for its extensive manufacture of shoes. From thence we travelled to Salem, about seven miles, through a very rugged stony country, but by an excellent turnpike road, made, I was informed, mostly by Irishmen. I may here take occasion to remark that the Irish emigrants are exceedingly useful in this country, and a great portion of the most rugged labour in it is performed by them. The lower orders of the Irish are generally strong, robust men, without money, and with a very slender educa- tion : hence, they are generally unfit for any kind of mercantile em- ployment ; and those who have not learned some mechanical pro- fession get employment in various bfanches of labour, for which they are well adapted ; and, getting good wages, they soon become independent and happy. Hence, the Irish are remarkable for their attachment to the American government, while many other foreign- ers, particularly those engaged in commerce, arediscontcnicd and fretful. The morning was damp and lia/y, so that the view of the coun- try was not very agreeable ; and it was with regret that I observed it began to rain just as I entered my place of destination. Salem is, next to Boston, the lagest town in Massachusetts, and one of the earliest settled in the state. It is situated on a pen- insula formed by two branches of the sea, called North and South Rivers, and consists of about 1 500 houses, and contained, in 1800, 9547 inhabitants. The houses are built partly of wood, and part- ly of brick ; and many ot them are uncommonly elegant. The principal public buildings are a court-house, five congregational churches, and one each for quakers and episcopalians. Salem car- ries on a very extensive shipping trade, more business being done here in that line than in any town in the New England states, Bos- ton excepted. There is a ship-yard in Salem, and a consider- able manufactory of sail-cloth. A bank has been long establisheii. The inhabitants are said to be industrious and frugal, and the ap- pearance of the town indicates a considerable accunmlation of wealth. On my arrival, I went to see the wharves and shipping, which are very extensive. Salem Is remarkable as being the residence of Mr. Gray, reputed the greatest ship -owner in America, having a vast number of Sijuarc-riggcd vessels, many of which are in the .'•« ■ ^*-- '•' ^-*-.^ J ■' d a floating 1 at Lynn, jrn. Lynn lufacture of seven miles, int turnpike :y here take ingly useful labour in it re generally ncler eiluca- rcantile em- lanical pro- ir, for which soon become ible for their thcr foreign- mtcnied and of the couu- ,t I observed on. assachusetts, ed on a pen- h and South ;ed, in 1800, d, and part- egant. The ingregational Salem car- js being done states, Bos- a consider- established. and the ap- ion of wealth. )ping, which he residence ricti, having :h are in the MASSACHUSETTS. 81 India trade. One of these vessels was coming into port while I stood on the wharf, and it appeared it would be with considerable difficulty she could get into the harbour, the entrance being very shallow ; and I was informed, that in consequence of this circujji- ntance, Mr. Gray was about to remove to Boston. On my return to the Coffee-House, I found the following senti- ment in one of the Salem newspapers : " There is reason to fear that a peace will at length be concluded betwen France and Britain ; and if that unfortunatelif be the case, the independence of the latter is gone for ever, and we may soon look for an attack upon the liberties of America." In the course of my travels through the United States, I have frequently heard similar sentiments, principally fi'om those professing the greatest regard for Britain ; but I must say, that they appear to me to be very incorrect. I grant it is better for Britain, or any other nation, to continue in a state of war, than to make a dishonourable peace, or to sub- mit to have their rights infringed by their neighbours ; but tlie sentiment in question, unqualified as it is, seems to breathe a wish for eternal war. It expresses a dread of Britain making peace at all, and considers war and independence so intimately allied, that the one cannot be given up without tiie other. But, in my opinion, the greatest curse that ever befel Britain is the present war — one of the greatest blessings to that country would be an honourable and lasting peace. As to the supposed attack upon the liberties of America, I think it proceeds upon a very incorrect view of the subject, and implios an idea highly derogatory to the American character. It is perfectly obvious tome, from what I have seen in this country, that the Americans could maintain their liberties against the whole world combined, and no single nation, however powerful, would be mad enough to make an attack, which would infallibly end in disaster and disgrace. America contains upwards of six millions oifree people^ and, if invaded, could at a short notice turn out a million of fighting men. This fact is well known in Europe, and would, of course, enter into the calcu- lation of any general who would plan an attack upon the countiy. He could not hope for success without at least an equal number ; and we may safely presume, that an army will never be sent three thousand miles, on an expedition which, though successful, would not pay one thousandth part of the expense. The afternoon cont-nued wet, and rather cokl. I returned to Boston in the evening by the stage. 1 1 » #v. •*i^ 89 TRAVELS IM * . / CHAPTER XIII. New Hampshire* Being at the extremity of my journey to the north-eastward, and in the metropoh's of the New Enp;land states, I shall, before leaving it, take a view of the states of New Hampshire and Ver- mont. NEW HAMPSHIRE Is situated between 42* 42' and 45" 13' north latitude, and 4® 23' and 6" 10' east longitude. Its greatest length is 182, audits greatest breadth 92 miles. Its area is 9491 square miles, contain- ing 6,074,240 aeres. The state has about 15 miles of sp" -coast, from whence it ex- tends in breadth, and is generally level towards the sea, rising gradually from 20 to 30 miles, when the mountains commence, and these are more lofty than in any other part of tlie United States; the White Mountains being visible 30 miles out at sea, and computed by Dr. Belknap at 10,000 feet, by Mr. Williams at 7800. There are large and rich valleys among the mountains, and a number of level plains along Connecticut river. There are several lakes in the state, but none of any great importance, except Winnipiscogee, near the centre, 24 miles long, and of luiequal breadth, from 3 to 1 2 miles. It is full of islands, and, being navigable in summer, and frozen over in winter, it proves a considerable convenience to that part of the country. The principal river is Connecticut, which is the boundary line befweert this state and Vermont. The Piscataqua is the boundary line, for a little way, between this state and the district of Maine ; and forms the harbour for the only shipping port in New Hamp- shire. There is a singular curiosity in the state called the Notch, which is a pass through the mountains, at one place only 22 feet wide, and, being bounded by rocks almost perpendicular, and of great height, presents a scene strikingly picturesque. The minerals quoted arc ochres, isinglass, chrystals, sulphur, free-stone, lead, black lead, and copper ; but the most valua- ble is iron, which is found in many places, and is wrought in considerable quantities. > The soil, near the sea-coast, is in some places sandy, but near % rf '■,i,t^m&>-J»''' N«W HAMPSHIRE. 83 the banks of rivers generally good, as is likewise the casein the valleys among the mountains. The mountains are, many of them, rocky and barren, but others are fertile on the brows, and nearly all are covered with timber. The climate is healthy, but the winters are long and severe, and there are great extremes of heat and cold. Mr. Belknap has observed the thermometer at 18" below 0°, and in summer it has risen to nearly 100° ; the average is about 48* or 50°. Snow lies on the ground from three to four months, and the use of sleighs, during that period, is general. The spring is rapid ; and the summer and fall are generally pleasant. The countrv was first discovered in 1614. Tlie first settlement Was made in 1623. The inhabitants took an active part in the revolutionary war, and sent two delegates to congress in I??*; in 1788 they adopted the federal constitution; and the state con- stitution, as it now stands, was ratified in 1 792. The state send« two senators and five representatives to congress. The state is divided into six counties, and 219 townships^ of $ix miles square each. Its population in 1800 was 183,850, being nearly 20 to the square mile. Although this appears but a thin population, yet it is to be ob- served,'that a great part of the state is covered by mountains, which are incapable of cultivation. The sea-coast, valleys, and fertile spots, are said to be thickly settled, and these places have kept pace in improvements with the other New England states. Ports- mouth, on the Piscataqua river, two miles from the sea, is the principal town, and being the only seaport, it has a pretty gcod ^rade; it contains 5,S00 inhabitants. Concord is the seat of government, and contains 2050. Dover contains 2062; Amherst, 2150: Hanover, 1920; Exeter, 1730: Keene, 164-5; Charleston, 1634; Durham, 1128; there are 3 ethers, contahiing from 000 to 1000. Small villages and farm-houses are numerous, and the coimtry is pretty well supplied with good roads, and some elegant bridges, of which the chief i*? across the Piscataqua, seven miles above Portsmouth. It is 2600 feet long, and cost 68,000 dollars. Agriculture is the chief business of the state, and |s well con- ducted. The principal products are beef, pork, muttonk.. poultry, wheat, corn, and other grain; butter, cheiif| llax; hemJK_hop% vegetables, apples, pears, &c. ^^^ 84 TRAVELS IN *>. The country people generally niiinulhcture their own clothing, and make considerable quantities of tow cloth for exportation* The other manufactures are ashes, maple-sugar, bricks, pottery, and iron ware. A great part of the surplus produce of this state is carried to Boston, which prevents it from making a great figure in the scale of exports; the amount in 1805, was 608,408 dollars, but it seldom exceeds half a million. All the export trade centres at Portsmouth. The inhabitants are represented as hardy, robust, and active. Education has been very veil attended to. There is a ccllege at Dartmouth, supported by a grant of 80,000 acres of land, and thore are a number of academies, schools, and public libraries. The government is founcled upon a bill of rights, declaring that all meh are born equally free and independent ; and that all government originates from the people : that every man has a right to worship God according to the dictates of his conscience : that all elections ought to be free, and that every inhabitant of the state, having the proper qualificatipns, has an equal right to elect, and be elected, into office : that there shall be no hereditary rights, and that the press shall be free. The exercise of the government is vested in a legislature, con- sisting of a senate and house of representatives ; a governor and council to execute the laws; and a judiciary to promote justice between man and man. The senate consists of 13 members, chosen annually by the people ; each member must be pos- sessed of a freehold estate of £. 200. The representativc« ar^ apportioned according to the population, every town which has 1 SO rateable polls being entitled to one representative ; haying 450, they are entitled to two. They are also elected annually, and must be possessed of a freehold oi £. 100. The governor is, in like manner, elected annually, and must be possessed of a freeholil of £. 500. There are five counsellors, who are chosen annually, who must be possessed of freeholds of £. SOO. The following extract from the constitution ought to be gene- rally known. *' Knowledge and learning, generally diifused through a com- munity, being essential to the preservation of a free government ; and spreading the opportunities and advantages of education through the various parts of the country, being highly conducive to promote this end ; it shall be the duty of the legislators and of( m ■•»?(*■" •:sxr'.i^ • ~t* ■■-'■^m ....^w*«aBgfe-!aS«'i' i"^ VERMONT. •* 8( magistrates, in all future periods of this government, to cherish the interest of literature and the sciences, and all seminaries and pub- lic schools, to encourage private and public institutions, rewards afld immunities for the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences, com- merce, trade, manufactures, and natural history of the country ; to countenance and inculcate the principles of humanity and general benevolence, public and private charity, industry and economy, honesty and punctuality, sincerity, sobriety, and all social affec- tions and generous sentiments, among the people." CHAPTER XIV. Vermont. Ts situated between 12° 42' and 1-5° north latitude, and 3» SSf and 5° 27' east longitude. It is 166 miles long, and its greatest breadth is 93 miles. Its area is about 10,237 square miles, or 6,551,680 acres. . , " . . This state is mostly hilly, but not rocky, and towards Canada it is level. An extensive chain of high mountains runs through the middle, nearly south and north, which abomids with elegant scenery. Among these there are beautiful and fertile valleys; and the whole is finely watered with springs. Lake Champlain and its waters divides the state from New York on the west ; and the Connecticut river from New Hampshire on the east. There are several rivers towards Canada. No part of the state is on the seaboard. Iron is found in abundance throughout the state. Lead, cop- peras, flint, and vitriol have been found, and the west side of the state abounds with marble. This state, notwithstanding its mountains, contains a great deal of excellent soil. The climate is similar to New Hampshire. The territory composing Vermont, was long claimed by the adjoining states of New Hampshire and New York ; but the in- habitants wished it to become an independent state in 1 777, and the green mouniain boys, as they were called, took a very active part in the war of the revolution ; but they did wot succeed in e!»tablishing their claim of independence kill 1791) when they ^a -■■%. f i 88 VEHMONT. were admitted, a 14th state, into the union. The constitution was adopted in 1793, and Vermont now sends two senators and four representatives to congress. The state is divided into 12 counties, and 24>5 townships of six miles square. The population, by the census of 1800, was 154,465, being upwards of 15 to the square mile. Vermont being oiTthe sea-coast, or, as it is sometimes termed, far from a market, there are no large commercial cities ; but there are a number of little towns, few of which have more than two thousand inhabitants. MoNTPEtLiER is the seat of governmeiit, and contains 1500; Bennington 2250, Windsor 2200, Rutland 2130, Newbury 2000, Manchester 2000, Newfane 1700, St. Alban's 1400, Midcllebury 1200, Burlington 1100, St. Hero 1000, Craftsbury 1000, Bruns- wick 1000. The great business of the state is agriculture, in which the inha- bitants are said to have made considerable progress. The soil is generally more productive than that of New Hampshire : the pro- duce is nearly the same. The brows of the mountains answer well for grazing : they raise great stores of beef and pork, with ex- cellent butter and cheese for market ; and qf late they have made great progress in raising sheep and wool. The principal manufactures are of the domestic kind, consisting of wool and flax, for family use. |ron is manufactured ; and a con- fiderable quantity of pot and pearl ashes. The only external trade of Vermont is with Canada, and the ex- ports, in 1805, amounted to 169,402 dollars; but the state has a considerable commerce, through the medium of its rivers, with New York, Hartford and Boston. The inhabitapts arc represented, by travellers whom I have convert sedwith, as being hardy, robust, full-featured; and florid in their com- plexions : as they are mostly all agriculturalists or mechanics, they ^e independent in their sentiments, and their wants being mostly •upplied among themselves, they are not subject to great vicissi- tudes of fortune, and are generally wealthy in proportion as they are industrious. The system of education partakes of this.equality ; they have two seminaries for the higher branches of education; but tbe chief object of the legislature has been to provide for the gene- ral diffusion d knowledge, by having common schools in every town- ship : a plan highly praiseworthy, and which every community ought to imitate. ; r>■■^^-^ 1 »^.3EMrt«*»..(«**«<"5P- * nstitUtion atora and lips of six 800, wa» s termed) but there than two lins 1500; •uiy 2000, lidcUebury 0, Bruns:- the inha- rhe soil is ! : the pro- inswer well :, with ex- have made , consisting and a con- ind the ex- state has a rivers, with ave conver- i their com- lanics, they eing mostly reat vicissi- tion as they lis.equality ; ication; but ar the gene- every town- community MASSACHUSTTTS. S7 The declaration of rights is nearly the lame as that of New Hampshire ; but they have an article declaring that no male bora in the country, or brought over sea, can be held in bondage after 8 1 , and no female after 1 8 years of age. ' The plan of government is legislative, executive and judiciary. The legislative power is vested in representatives, chosen annually, every free male of 21 years and upwards, who pays taxes, having a vote. The executive is vested in a governor, lieutenant-governor, ^nd council of 12, chosen annually, in like manner: and in order " that t'lie freedom of the commonwealth may be kept inviolate for ever," a council of censors is chosen once in seven years, whose duty it is to see that the constitution has been preserved inviolate; whe- ther the taxes have been paid, and the public monies properly dis- posed of; whether the public servants have done their duty, and the laws been duly executed : and they are empowered, if they judge it necessary, to call a convention, to meet two years after their sitting, to revise and amend the constitution. CHAPTER XV. *!> Cambritlge, — Worcesterf-^Springfieldi — Sitffield, Having taken my leave of a number of kind friends, with whom I had associated during my stay in Boston, I engaged a passage by the mail stage for New York, and was called to take my place on the 4th of September, at 2 o'clock in the morning. It is the prac- tice her- for the driver to call on the passengers, before setting out, and it is attended with a considerable degree of convenience to them, particularly when they set out early in the morning. The mail stages here are altogether different in construction from the mail coaches in Britain ; they are long machines, hung upon leather bra- ces, with three seats across; of a sufficient length to accommodate three persons each, who all sit with their faces towards the horses . the driver sits under cover, without any division between him and the passengers, and there is room for a person to sit on each side of him. The driver, by the post-office regulations, must be a white man, and he has the charge of the mail, which is placed in a box be- low his seat : there is no guard. The passengers' luggage is put below the seat*, or tied on behind the stage; they put nothing on i/ I i I i \ 88 TRAVBLS IN the top, and they take no outside passengers. The stages arc slight- ly built, and the roof supported on pillars ; with a curtain, to be let down or folded up, at pleasure. The conveyance is easy, and in symmer very agreeable ; but it must be excessively cold in winter. There was an Englisman, a facetious, merry fellow, who lodg- ed at Chappotin's, and took his passage along with me. On tak- ing our places, we found a lady passenger already in the stage, and our company was afterwards augmented by three more, name- ly, a gentleman from the West Indies, one from Hudson, and a young lady. By the time we got all the passengers and the mail on boardy it was 3 o'clock, at which hour we set out from Boston by West Boston bridge ; and three miles beyond it we passed through Cambiiidge, which, at that early hour, I could not sec, but 1 learned that the situation is handsome, and that it contains a university, which is rcputetl the best literary institution in tlie United States. It was established in 1G38, and has now four large buildings, with nccommodations sufficient to contain up- wards of 200 students, who attend it annually, and are instructed in all the various branches of human knowledge. Attached to the institution are a philosophical apparatus, a small museum, and ai very extensive library. The village of Cambridge contains about 1000 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood. The public buildings arc, besides the university, a court-house, an e- piscopal, and a congregational church. We travelled 13 miles before we had fair day-light, during which, we passed through Watertown and Waltham, to Weston. It is to be observed, that towns, in the New England states, do not always imply a collection of houses in one place, sufficient to form a village. The whole country is divided into districts, of about six miles square each, and these are called towns, whether they be thickly settled or not. The arrangement of these towns is somewhat assimilated to the pnriishes in Scotland, having each a separate jurisdiction within itselii which regulates the affairs of re- ligion and of education, and makes provision for the poor. They are also of great importance in the elections, which arc conducted throughout the whole state in one day, the people voting in their respective towns, which has a tendency to prevent all bustle and confusion. In travelling through the country, you go from one town to another, and are never out of one ; it is theiefore, only where the towns contain villages, that I mean to notice llicm, and, nearly .^..^i MASSACHUSETTS. 89 ire slight- , to be let y, and in in winter, ivho lodg- On tak- the stage, re, niime- ioii, and a 1 the mail in Boatou we passed d not see, it contains ion in the now four antain up- i instructed Utached to Liseum, and itftins about :ood. The )use, an e- ^ht, during ;o Weston, states, do sufficient to istricts, of whether lese towns ing each a fairs of re- oor. They conducted ing in their bustle and o from one efore, only them, and, is, in giving the population, it is to be observed, that it includes the whole of the township, that being the mode in which the census it taken> Westox, which I last noticed, contains about 1200 in- habitants. The country is said to be well cultivated and thickly settled, all the way from Boston. We could now see one another's faces, and the morning being clear and healthy, we Were in high spirits, and, disposed for en- joyment. One of our lady passengers was a beautiful country girl, but we learned that she was to travel with us only 28 miles ; and our facetious Englishman seemed disposed to improve the time by orations in favour of her eyes, or beautiful twinklers as he called them. They certainly were very pretty, and she had a blooming look, the iuilication of a hlythe hearty according to the Scots proverb. The other lady, we learned, was travelling to Springfield, 80 miles ; but she was quite eclipsed by her fair companion, and came in for no share of the Englishman's com- pliments, while the other remained with us. From Weston, we passed through a thickly settled and well cultivated country, by Sudbury, Marlborough, and Westborough; and, 4)5 miles from Boston, we arrived at Worcester. This is a pretty placcj and said to be one of the largest inland towns in the state. It is the ca])ital of u county to which it gives the name, and is situated in a pleasant valley, mostly on one street, which is brodd and handsome. The houses arc generally of wood, painted white; and are in number about 400. The inhabitants amount to about 2500. The public buildings are a court-house, jail, and 2 congregational churches. They Have a pretty cxtensiye inland trade at this place, and the printing busi- ness has been long established here by a Mr. Thomas, who is reputed to be the oldest printer in America. It is proposed to open an inland navigation between this place and Providence, distant about 40 miles, and if it should take place, it is sup- posed that it will be attended with great advantage. From thence we passed through Leicester and Spencer, and, getting into a hilly country, we continued our course to Brook- field, about 2 1 miles from Worcester. This is a handsome post-town, situated on Quebang river, 20 miles above its junc- tion with Connecticut river, and in a rich, fertile country, abounding in grain, grass, fruits, and vegetables: it contains iiearly 3000 iniiabitants, and has four places for public worship. 12 w ]% \^M I ' 90 TRAVELS IN Tho river abounds with (isli, and the country round contuins ^rcut (|iiuntitics of iron ore. Seven miles from hence we readied Western, 73 miles from Boston ; and here day-light having failed us, my observation!! oa the scenery of the country were terminated for the day. . . This was the first inland journey I had made in tlic northern states, and 1 was highly delighted with every thing I saw, which formed a perfect contrast to Georgia ; and tho villages, the fields, the farm-houses, the gardens, and the orchards, far surpnssctl what is to be generally seen, even in " Scotia, my dear, my na- tive soil." The inhabitants every where appeared to be industri- ous, contented, and hap])y; aiul I found them always civil and well-bred, and ready to give me every information. , Our company were lively and cheerful. Our facetious English" man was quite in high spirits ; and jocularly threatened to have ine denounced as a spy. I retaliated by thrcatcnii>g to have him denounced as a flatterer of the fair sex, of whom he seemed de- termined to spare neither age, features, nor complexion j for the Af?aM/?/ having left us, and ceasing to allure him by he» "witch- ing smile," the other lady, whom I did not think handsome, came in for an extravagant share of compliment. ^^ The night (have on wi' sangs an' clatter." Our West Indian, who was a Yankee by birth, entertained us with a history oflmndlingi and we had a vast variety of songs, among which was " Yankee Doodlev'* In prosecuting our journey to Springfield, wc stopped at a small tavern to change horses, ami in the mean time went into the house to warm ourselves, for the evening had become cold*. In passing through the parlour we saw a tall, elegant girl^ ta whom our gentlemen began immediately to make love ; but I pro- secuted my way to the kitchen fire, where there sat another ymmg girl, and she was beautiful. She was dressed in suLiitaDtial houvc- spun, but very clean, and was knitting a stocking. Her ajje might be about 16, and her name was lAtcretia. I entered into conversation with her, and her voice was as sweet as her counte- nance. I was delighted with her appearance. At length in came the other passengers, ixith a hang ; and our facetious firiend, who seemed to have reserved the very quintessence of his talent for compliment for the occasion, began an oration about fine arched eye-brows, aquiline noses, and beautiful twinklers, which proba- bly would have lusted half an hour, had we not been called away ^ \ A>^'- ■*■*.'%»—'»«'•- '. MASSAGHU8FTTS. 9! to t«ke our scj\t» in the staj;;e. Wo soon observoil tliut uH parties were not ploasctl, lor w« heard the Yuiikcc hiiln grumbling ns wc passed them ; nnd the Ynnkee Indy pansenger observed, with a toss of Iier hend, that she cuuld nut see >vhal we all had to make such n fuss about. . At 10 o'clock wc reached Springfield, said to be a handsonio and thriving town, situated on. the east side of the Connecticut river, f)7 miles from Boston. It contains about 1500 inhabitants, who carry on a considerable inland trade; anil have established a respectable manutactory of fire-arms. 'Mie public builiiings are a court-house and a congregational church. The Connecticut Riveii, on which Springfield is situated, is one of the most considerable and important in the United Stat(>s. It rises on the high lands which se})arate the states of Vermont and New Hampshire from Upper Canada ; and pursuing a course a little to the west of south, falls into I^ong Island Sound ; its length, including its windings, being about 300 miles. It lornis the boundary line between Vermont and New Hampshire, and passes through the interior of Massachusetts and Conneclicut. Its banks are highly cultivated and thickly settled, through its whole course. There is a bar at its outlet, on which there is only 10 feet water, and interiorly it is much obstructed by liiMs ; but it is navigable for sea vessels to Hartford ; and there is a gieut trade on the river above tliat place ; particularly downwards, in flat-bottomed boats. The river abounds with salmon, and (Other fish. It is in contemplation to improve the ntivigation by locks at several places, and to connect it with Merrimac river, distant $0 miles, by a canal. . ;, * ? i i < ;, Having crossed this river, the road runs nearly along its west bank, 10 miles, to Suffield, in Connecticut, where we stopped for the night. Here I suspend my account of the journey, to take a short review of the interesting state of Massachusetts. -^- *5*. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^1^ ta Hi I&2 12.2 I.I 11.25 £ m 120 M LA. 116 I 6" 7 Photograidric Sciences Corporation ■1>^ v <> '^. V ^.\ ;\ 23 WIST MAIN STMiT WIBSTII.N.Y. 14SM (716)872-4503 '^ M MASSAcnvsirra. ■■■il! ■ .■'i<-:VrtH* (v;.-; M^ i Ml jy ' ^ .' '• ' ■'. ■'■.■>■» ^Arun^ '..;.. CHAPTER XVI. ?^'*"':'"»^^, Mtusachtissets Is situated between 41* IS' and 42^ 52' north latitude, and S« 28' and 7° east longitude. Its extreme lengtlx is 190 miles, and its greatest bre: ath 100. Its square contents is 8765 miles, being about 5,609,600 acres, The face of the country is strikingly diversified. The coast on the east side, is indented with bays, and studded with inlands, which afford ample harbours for shipping, and support a hardy raceofi^lors and fishermen. Toward the middle the surface is agreeably uneven, and the west swells out into mountains, some of which are of yery considerable height. The state is well water- ed, abounding in rivers and small lakes. The principal rivers are Connecticut and Merrimac^ already noticed. The principal mineral is iron, of which the state produces a great quantity. A copper mine has been discovered; and there are considerable quantities of clays ^nd ochres, and slate^ marble, and limestone. • '^* »' ■ The soil is various. Toward the sea-coast it is sandy and barren; in the interior it improves; and toward the western parts, where the country is hilly, it is best adapted for grasuig. Wheat crops are not abundant, but it produces Indian co^^, tye, barley, and oats. Vegetablef and fruit come to great per- ibetion, and ar^ of much value in the state. Flax and some hemp are cultivated; and hops grow luxuriantly. The climate is yery much assimilated to that of Rhode Island. Toward the wes^ the winters are more cold and sievere than on the coast, but the weather is more steady, and the whole is healthy. Massachusetts was first settled in 1'620, by a colony of puritans frojn Holland, ^ho had been driven there frofn England, 20 years before, l^iese arrived and settled at Plymouth ; and eight years thereafter, baothcr colony arrived from England, and settled at Sal^m. These colonies soon encreased, a^nd laid the foundation for a powerful state, now one of the first in the union. The xevolution originated in Massachusetts, which bore an active 9biyre throughout the war. It now sends 17 representatives^^fdid twcale, particularly pf woollen and cotton. ' ^* The exporti of the state are provisions, timber, ashes, flax-seed, bees-wax, fish, pil, saddlery, cabuiet-work, boots and shoes, nail% tow-cloth^ iroti qtensfls, glass, spirits, &c. The imports are British manufactures, tea, wine, silks, spirits, coffee, cotton, &c Coiii- merce is pursued wit|i an ardent spirit in the state; and it is said that Massachusetts owns more shipping than any other itate in the union. The exports, in 1805, amounted to 19,435,657 dollars; but 14,738,606 dollars consisted of foreign produce, and, of thero- mtunder, a considerable portion was thai of other states. The state has very extensive fisheries, the product of which 19 annually of great value. The state of socie^ is a good deal assimilated to that of Rhode Island, described in th^ tenth chapter, i^rith this essential dlflfer^ce^ that slavery is totally abolished in all its branches. The 'air is, like that of Britain, " too pure for a slave to live in ;'^and, with regard to the white people^ I think it is " more pure," for here they are all on an equal footing, having neither noble^ nor priests, nor rent^ nor tjthes. The religious matters, like the state of Rhode Island, and, indeed, tdl the other states, are managed by each religious sect in its own way, who are not suffered to interfere with the dvil r- •V « il'31 v; ii ^ tlAVXLS IN. ^i^tii of their iie|glib|pur$> 80 that the sting is drami out of the- tail i»t the fcorpion of religious discord. No sect is elevated above ano- ther ; and all have reason to be thankful for the blessings they en- i9^, io the.prot^ct^on of equal laws. The literary, humapei and olher institutions, are numerous, and exhij^it a fair trait in the cha- .l^tereftheiqhabitanM* .; w. , ^ ?-■',: V Oo the subject of literature, the constitution declares that " wis- 4omuul knowlefige, as well, as virtue, diffused generally among the bQ47 of the people^ being necessary for the preservation of their rights and liberties ; and as these depend on spreading the oppor- jUimties and advantages of education in .the various parts of the .country, and among the di^jTerent orders of the people, it shall be the duty of the legislatures and magistrates, in all future periods of the commonwealth^ to cherish the interests of literature and the sci* •ence% fui4 all seminaries of jthem $ especially the university at Cam- bridge, public schools, and gngnmar-schools in the towns; to en-* Qourage private societies and public institutions, by. rewards and jjn|inttbi|^^ for l^he promotion of agri9ulture, arts, scioaces, com- ineFC^ trades, pumii&ctures, and natural history of the country ; to countenanee ^d inculcate the principles of humanity and gene- fsl |>eneyolenpe, public and private pharity, industry apd frugality, ^Diesty and punctuality in their dealings; sincerity, good-hvimour, ,|Uid all social affections and generous sentiments among the people.'* ;-„P|:. More says, " Aocordii^ to the laws of thiscopunonwe^lth, i^ery town having .50 householders or upwards, is to be provided ,W^\i one or mo^e schoolmasters, to teach children and youth to l'«|^l and writer and instruct them in the English language, arith- Tpi^ei orthography} and Recent behaviour; and yrhere any. town has, 200 families, there is s^ to be a gramn^ar-school set up there- 4n, and .«ome,dis(^eet person, well instructed in the Latin, Greek, and English languages, procured to keep the same, and be suitably ^p^d by the inhabitants. The pjen^lty for neglect of achooK in Iqwna of ^0 Qupilies,- is j£|0. ; those of 100 i^miUes, j£20. ; and of "iPie sti^e government is vested in a senate and house of represent* «tive«,atyle4 the G^eral Court; a governor, lieutenant-governor, imd cou^iL The senators are 40 in number, and are elected an-, nually in districts ; and the voters must be possessed of a freehold .C)itate of nnecticut, and is, altetnately with Newhaven, the seat of legislation for the state. It is situated on Connecticut River, at the head of sloop naviga- tion, 50 miles above Long Island Sound. It is regularly laid out,r the streets crossing one another at right iingl^ ; but they are not paved, and, when I saw them, they were Very muddy. The dty consists of about 400 bouses, and contains between S and 4000 inhabitants.* The public buildings are the State-House, an ele- gant edifice, two congregational churches, and one episcopal church. The citizens carry on an active commerce, ' in all the products of the state, to the southern states and the West Indies; j^,' and they have a large share of country trade. Considerable ma- ^ nufiu:tures are carried on with spirit, and are increasing. The mar- kets are well supplied with wholesome provisions, which are sold f I at r^wonable rates. ^i ., On leaving the city, we got an addition to our company, of some students going to Newhaven, and some young ladies ; and we had \\ a great deal of entertainment from the remarks of oq[r fiicetious Englishman, who began by questioning tfae students, why the citizens of Hartford had not paved the streets ? They gave s»me ^ account of i^ which I do not recollect ; but it was not sati&j^tory ; and one of our company attempted to solve the difficulty, by al- leging that it was probably with a view of encouraging the * Bjr tht ceaws of ISIO they were o,QS5. COMNICTICUT. 97 A» ihomiflg At ping near the id clear, but a y at that early , and well im- from Suffield, ed on "Windsor We BOW had rther, to Hatt- jnfiecticut, and m for the state. »f sloiop haviga- [iilarly laid out^ it they are hot Jdy. The 6»ty en S and 4000 'House, an ele- one episcopal rce, in all the West Indies; )nsiderable Bia- sing. Themar- which are sold mpany, of some ; and we had ouir facetious dents, why the hey gave some lot satis&ctory ; fficulty, by al- icoumging the growth of the young women. He had remarked, that the young ladies of Hartford were uncommonly tall; and as sap and soil were Tery necessary to the growth of vegetable substances, and the citi- zens of HarUTord were a philosophical people, and ** full of no- tions," it was likely they had tried the experiment with the ani- mal creation, and had succeeded. The students were highly di- verted, and laughed heartily at what they called his odd ** notion." The ladies in the stage were too young to attract the attention of our friend ; but many a remark did he make on those we passed, who, ** to conceal nothing," as Goldsmith says, ** were certainly very handsome." The weather was delightful, and the view of the country was highly gratifying. The fields were well cultivated, abounding with fruits of all sorts; and we purchased from a coun- tryman, en passant f a whole basket full of peaches for a mere triflcf which kept us well supplied in fruit the whole way to Newhaven. We took, as we were informed, a new road ; and passing se- veral villages of inferior note, we reached Wailingford, 26 miles from Hartford, about ISip'clock. Here we had a delightful view, and were informed that this district was celebrated for raising onions, and that a company of young girls had cultivated that root so successfully, in a neighbouring town, that they had built a church with the proceeds. This account of the industry of the young women was highly gratifying, and we were really ddighted with their blooming countenances, and the cleanly, substantial dress which they wore. It was plain and simple, but so much thtf better; For lovdincM Ncech not the foreign aid of ornament, But is, when unadom'd, adom'd the most In our way towards Newhaven, we passed through a very elegant country, where we had a number of fine views ; and we reached the great, enlightened city of Newhaven, at 2 o'clock. Here we stopped for dinner, and we had some little time to take a view of the town. Newhaven is a handsome city. The surrounding scenery is very fin^ and the situation pleasant, and favourable for commerce. It is built on a considerable bay, on Long Island Sound, lud covers part of a pretty extensive plain, having a river on each side of it. The streets cross one another at right angles, and there is a square in the middle, round which arc the public buildings, which 13 / ^^ ■••rt^^BPPJI . ti t I 1/ ¥: 98 coNNzcricuT. have a very hanilsome appearance. They ore the oolites. State* House* three cungregatioual, and one episcopal church. I regret- ted that my time did not permit me to sec tlie College, which is esteemed one of the best seminaries, in the United States, and, by the citizens of Ncwhaven, is considered the very best. The city contains nearly 6000 inhabitants, who carry on a swy active trade with New York and the West Indies ; and they have established considerable manufactures, which are said to be in a thriving state. We took our departure from Ncwhaven about 4 o'clock, and travelling tliirteen miles through a pretty good trtict of country, along the Sound, we reached Milford^ a considerable town, hav- ing nevcral churches, and from thence, through a country nearly similar, a few miles, we passed the Housatonic Riverf by a ferry. This river rises about the borders of Massachusetts, and running a south-east course, the wI>ole breadth of the state of Connecticut, fulb into tlie Sound a little below where we crossed it. It i» navi- gable to Derby, twelve miles up, and above that is very important for mills and machinery ; the country on its bai^ is said to be very romantic. Four miles from this river we passed Straf/brd, a ()leasant town, and of consid^able extent; and now day-light tailed us, and terminated my observations* We. continued our course through Fai^ld and Norwalk, said to be considerable and pleasant towns; and at 12 o'clock reached Stamfordf 44 miles from Newhaven, where we stopped for the night. In our way, we passed a number of rivers ot inferior note, and part of the country appeared to lie rough, and the road very bad ; but we were informed that a new line of turnpike road was in for- wardness, and would soon be finished* CHAPTER XVIII. Connectieuti Is situated between 41 <> and 42** north latitude, and S^ 20'and 5^ east longitude. Its greatest length is 83 miles, and its greatest breads 72. Its area is 4400 square miles, or 2,816,000 acres. The face of the country is agreeably uneven. To the south the coast extends along the Sound the whole length of the state, and has many fine inlets, which are highly advantageous to commerce. 1%' ■■- -i' COJ«NBCTlCUT. 99 Towttrds the north-west the country iwells out into high, broken, hillj Undf, but there are no mountains Thi» hilly country is said to be very romantic. The state is remarkably well watered, abounding in small streams. The principal rivers are Connecticut and Housatonic, already mentioned, and the Thames. This last river is formed at Norwich of two branches, called Shetucket and Utde rivers; and thence runs a due south course, H miles, to the sound. It has a fine ha/bour at New London, and is navigable for small vessels to Norwich. Iron ore is found in the state in great abundance^ and lend^ c(^per, and zinc have also been discovered, though in no great quantities. Pit>coal has been found, but, I believe, not in suffi- cient quantity to induce the inhabitants to dig for it. There are a number of mineral springs in the state; the most important is in Lichfield county, which is highly impregnated with carbonic acid gaS) and sulphurated hydrogen gas; and is said to be very useful in curing various diseases, particularly dyspepsia, rheumatism, and those of the cutaneous kind. TheacHl is various, some parts being poor and sandy, and some very fertile; generally speaking, there is a great deal of good land, and the state is remarkably well calculated for grazing. The climate is subject to great and sudden changes, passing to the extremes of heat and cold ; but it is very hralthy, and the state abounds with remarkable instances of longevity. The first settlement was made in the year 16SS, by some Dutch and English traders with the Indians. In 1662, a charter was granted by Charles II. which stiU serves as the basis of the state government; and which, from the ignorance of the British government, at that time, of the geography of the country, has involved some singular disputes about land titles. Connecticut bore an active share in the war for independence ; and now forms a, very important state in the union, sending two senators and seven representatives to congress. The state is divided into eight counties and 107 townships. The population, in 1800, was 251,002, including 9S1 slaves, be^ ing about 57 to a sijuare mile. The country is highly improved, and abounds with handsome towns, viUi^jes, a9d farm-houses. There are five incorporated dlies) viz, Hartford, Neaohaven, New L(mdon, Norwich and Mid^ dktawn. The two fint have been noti^. New London if handn * ; \ ^1 f-JU*. \ 1 » -:--*BP!SHS. .m-y^ If 100 COMNKTICUT. ■omely situated on the TliantM, and has an excellent liarbour, and cxt^HHive trade. It contains upwards of SOOO inhabitants, and has a bank, and tliree houses for public worship. Noneich is on the same river, at the head of navigation, and has numerous mar* nutactures and an extensive trade. It contains nearly SOOO in- habitants, and has a court-house, a bank, an insurance company, an academy, and three places for public worship. Middletomi, situated on Connecticut river, 15 miles below Hartford, contains about 2000 inhabitants, and carries on a considerable trade. There is a l)ank, an insurance company, a coult-house and two places for public worship in the city. Lichfield is a fine town, containing up- wards of 4000 })eoplc. It u beautifully situated in an elevated part of the state, and has a court-house, meeting-house, and aca- demy. Wether sfield is the oldest town in the state, and is remark- able tor the culture of onions. The other villages are numerous, the whole state being studded with them, containing from 500 to 1500 or 2000 inhabitants; among others may be mentioned Daih burijt Windham^ Haddam, and Tolland. The houses are generally built of wood, on a handsome plan, and are painted white ; which gives the country an air of great cleanliness and neatness. This enterprising litUe state first set the example of making turnpike roads in New England, and these and other good roads are so abundant, that travelling is facilitated in all directions. There a^ a number of bridges in the states some of thera constructed at great expence, which are of great utility. The agriculture of the state is in a condition which speaks vo- lumes in praise of equal laws. There is no feudal system, and no law of primogeniture; hence there are no overgrown estates on the one hand, and few of those employed in agriculture are de- pressed by poverty on the other. The farms are generally from 50 to SOOO acres, cultivated by a hardy industrious race, whose labour is rewarded by the blessings of heaveq in *< peac^ and health, and sweet content." 3ut it is said, that all the sons of Connecticut are not thus wise. There is a superabundance of the learned professions, particularly in the law department, who keep the state embroiled in litigation. ** Ood made man upright, but they have sought out many inventions." — ^The produce of the state is wheat, rye, Indian com, oats, ^barley, buck-wheat, flax, a large quantity, and tome hemp, with a great variety of vegetables, and fruit. The soil. is w6U adapted to grazing, and vast quantities of -•.-,^"''t*--i»--- '»*:. I I CONMICTICUT. ttiarbour, and itants, and has Nonvich is on numerous roar* early SOOO in- ance companyt . Middletaom, tford} contains e trade. There d two places for containing up- in an elevated [lousC} and aca- ond is remark- i are numerous, g from 500 to nentioned Dan^ es are generally >d white; which neatness. This laking turnpike d roads are so >ns. There tLi;e constructed at lich speaks yo- il system, and rown estates on culture are de- generally from us race, whose " peaces and all the sons of ondance of the lent, who keep ji upright, but lice of the state t, flax, a large egetables, and It quantities of 101 cheese and butter are made : much p 'k is cured : cyder it aU so made in great plenty and perfection. The farmers of Connecticut, and their families, are generally dressed in cloth of their own manufacture, which is substantial and good ; and there are considerable and very important manu- factures, on a larger scale, throughout the state, viz. woollens, linens, cottons, leather of every description, hats, stockings, pa* per, wire, bells, soap, candles, oil, clocks and watches, earthen and stone ware, chaises, harness, &c. The state has a very considerable coasting and foreign trade. The exports, in 1805, amounted to 1,448,729 dolhirs. They are principally to the West India islands, consisting of live stock, timber, grain, fruit, fish, and provisions. The imports consut of manufactured piece goods of the finer kinds, wines, and groceries. The population of Connecticut consists of farmers, mechanics, manufacturers, ministers of religion, instructors of youth, doctors of medicine, and lawyers. There are no idle pebple to be seen, although it is said that too many are engaged in the learned pro- ^Bssions ; and Connecticut sends out a ^11 proportion of luminarw ' ies annually, to enlighten other states, Education is upon an ex- cellent footing, and the school fund is more ample than that of any other state. The college at Newhaven, which is named Yale College, has been already noticed, and academies have been esta- blished at Greenfield, Plainfield, Canterbury, Norwich, Wind- ham, and Pomfret The law directs that a grammar School shall he kept in every county town throughout the state; but the great, popular, and permanent advantage on this branch, arises firom the establishment of shools in every township, being an arrangement similar to the parish schools of Scotland, and which produced similar effects — a general diffusion of knowledge, " steady habits," and sobriety of manners. In religion, the form of church g(H yernment is generally congr^tional or presbyterian, but evety other form may be freely exercised. The form of government i^ derived from the ancient charter; by which th^ legislative authors ty is vested in a governor,, deputy governor, twflve assistants ov pounsellors, and the rqiresentatives of the people^ s^led the General Assembly, They are divide^ iQto two branches^ of which the governor, deputy governor^ f^^4 assistants foftn one^ ftnd the representatives the ther : and na \^y( can past without the ooncurrence of both^ The governor and. fifutanto i^ chosen a^^ t. (1 i ■i 1 a I Q i< r--*., i\ ■ # 109 TftATRLS IN niwlly, and the repreMntativeis who muit not exceed two for each town, are choten twice each year. The suffrage is universal, erery freeman who is of 4ige having a vote, without regard to properly. » . - . ,, , . ^ , . CHAPTER XIX. .* t mXt, Horsmeckf — Harlem, — Ntw Y«rk. September 6. This morning, at 9 o'cIock,we took our scats in the stage. I was diverted by a dialogue between the two driven, in which the word guess occured so frequently, that I could hardly hear any thing else. **lguess this string's not long enough." " Oycs, Iguess it is," " O yes, Iguessl'W make it do." " There, — Iguess you've fix- ed it." " Yes, I guess you guess right." Leaving Stanford we passed several creeks. The morning was raw and foggy. At the dawn of day we reached a considerable rising groond, called Horseneck, and we alighted, and walked up the hill, by a winding road. Here we were told a singular anecdote of Major Putnam. A part of the British army were encamped not far from this hill, and the major went to the top of it, in a fog, to reconnoitre ; just as he reached the top, the fog cleared away, and he found himself close by a corps of British cavalry, who immediately pursued him. He clapped spurs to his horse, and ; not having tiijie to keep the road, galloped right down the hill, and, strange to tell i reached th^ plain unhurt ; and thus eluded his pursuers. A few miles from thence, we passed By- ram river, and entered the state of New York. The first township we came to in this state was Rye, containing about 1000 inhabitants. The soil appeared pretty good, but the face of the country is rough and stony. We continued our course through East and West Chester, both considerable townships; near the last is a manu&cture of earthenware, said to be in a thriving ttate. The soil in this district seems to be poor and sandy ; but we were informed it was well calculated for sheep and cattle, the flocks of which were encreasing. Nine miles from New York, we passed into York Island, by a wooden bridge, at Harlem ; and, continuing our course through the middle of the island, which abounds with numerous villas and pleasure-grounds, generally the pr<^rty of the merchant* of New Yoric, we reached the city at ten o'clock. I was highly gratified \iy my tour to the New England states. -==s''??'>r:C5^' "^^CS^i^ -;r; -"'»rrS<'-'" •-a--;^je^»;*»«'; >'~^4,v«v two for each is univenalf It regard to MRW YORK. 109 ok our scats in wro drivers^ in Id hardly hear ** Oyctflguess tess you've fix- ford wc passed U the dawn of ,ed Horseneck, g road. Here A part of the and the major he reached the }e by a corps of * clapped spurs galloped right n unhurt ; and we passed By- Lye, containing good, but the ued our course unships; near in a thriving sandy ; but we lattle, the flocks [•k Island, by a Durse through Dus vUlas and Ichantk of New kigWy gratified 1 continued in New York, transacting various mercantile busi« nesib until the 85th ot September ; during which time I again called on Thomas Paine, in company with his friend, formerly mentioned. Paine was still at the house of Mrs. Palmer, but his leg had got much better, and he was in good spirits. News had arrived that morning that a peace had been concluded between France and Eng- land ; but Paine said he did not believe :t, and again affirmed^ that while the present form of government lasted in England, there would be no peace : the government was committed in a war sys- tem, and would prosecute it as long as they could command the means. He then turned up a newspaper, which had recently been established at New York, and, after reading several paragraphs, he observed that he could not understand what the editor was driv- ing at. He pretended to be a great friend of Britain, and yet he was constantly writing against peace, and the best interests of the country ; and in place of being guided by the plain dictates of com- mon sense, he aime^f at flowery embellished language, and glided away into the airy regions of speculative nonsense, more like a madman than the editor of a newspaper. After a good deal of ge- neral conversation, we took our leave. A few days after, his friend handed me a piece in MS., intended for the newspapers, and requested me to copy it, and keep the ori- ginal ; and as Paine has made a great nmse in the world, I shall here insert it, as a relic of an extraonlinary political character, and as a very good specimen of the acuteness of his mind, and his turn for wit, at the advanced age of 70. ' \^ " For the Citizen, " It must be an inconsolable afiliction to poor Mr.-— r-'s frisnds, if he has any, to hear that his insanity increases beyond all hopes of recovery. His case is truly pitiable : he works hard at the trade of mischief-making; but he is not a good hand at it, for the case is that the more he labours the more he is laughed at, and his malady increases with every laugh. " In his paper of Thursday, September ibth, the spirit of pro- phecy seizes him, and he leaps from the earth, gets astride of n cloud, and predicts universal darkness to the inhabitants of tins lower world. " Speaking of the rumours of peace between France and EIng- land, he says, * we will not believe it till we see it gazetted (meaning d: I i 1 -I t 104 NEW YQBK. in the London Gazette,} and then,' says he, * we will arer that the sun which dawns upon that event will be the darkest that ever rose since the transgression of our first parents brou|^t sin into the world/ This is the first time we ever heard of the sun shining darkness. But darkness or light, sense or nonsense, sunshine or moonshine, are all alike to a lunatic. — He then goes on. * In a continuance,' says he, * of war only, can Britain look for salvation. That star once extinguished, all will be darkness and eternal night over the face of the creation.' — The devil it will ! And pray Mr. , will the moon shine darkness too ? and will all the stars twinkle darkness ? If that should be the case, you had better sell your press, and set up tallow-chandler : there wiil be more demand for candles than for newspapers when those dark days come. ** But, as you are a man that writes for a livelihood, and I sup- pose you find it hard work to rub on, I would advise you, as a firiend, not to lay out all your cash upon candle-making ; for my opinion is, that whether England make peace or not, or whether she is conquered or not conquered, the sun will rise as glorious and shine as bright on that day as if no such trifling things had happened." It appeared in the sequel that Paine was correct in his opinion, and the editor was gratified in his wish — ^there was no peace. • i 1.'*' CHAPTER XX. New York, ^'^ I. HIS interesting state is situated between 40* 33' and 45 • north latitude^ and S* 43' east, and 2°43' west longitude; its extreme length, firom east to west, being 340, and extreme breadth, from north to south, 317 miles; but it is very irregular. The square contents amount to about 52,125 square miles, or 33,360,000 acres; being 18,000 square miles larger than Scotland. - There is a vast variety in the face of the country. Long Island and Staten Island are situated at its southern extremity, and are in- teresting. The state is bounded by Connecticut on the east, New Jersey on the west, extending in breadth to the highlands, with an agreeably uneven surface. From the highlands, about 50 miles a- bove New York, thestate is hilly, in many places mountainous; and .^: NEW YORK. 105 ir. The square 3,360,000 acres; the hills continue to the extremity of the state nortliward, and to Utica westward : from thence to its western extremity, nearly 300 inilcs, tl^creis a most elegant country, rich and well watered, having spurs of the Allegany mountains on the one side> and on the other the lakes Ontario an4 Erie, two of the finest sheets of water in the world. The lakes are so numerous that the bare mention of the names of the most important must suffice in this place. Besides the large lakes, there are Lake C/tamplaiiit Lake George, Otieida, Onon- dago, Skeneateless, Owasca, Cayuga, Seneca, Canandagua, and Cha- taughque* The principal rivers are the Hudson, the Mohavck, the Oneida, and the Genesee, llie Hudson rises in the mountains, above the iith degree of north latitude, pursues a south course about 250 miles, and forms a junction with the East River at New York. This river is navigable for sea vessels through the mountains to Albany and Troy ; and for smaller vessels a considerable way above Troy : the tide flows 165 miles up this river. The Mohawk rises near O- neida Lake, and running a south-east course upwards of 100 miles, fiills into the Hudson 8 miles above Albany : the navigation of this river is obstructed by the Cohoes falls, near its outlet, and the little falls about 70 miles above tliat ; but goods and produce are carried by land between Albany and Skenectady, 15 miles ; and there being a canal^round the little falls, the navigation is complete to the port- age near its source, where it communicates by another canal with Wood Creek, and from thence with I-ake Ontario. Oneida River lias its source in Oneida Lake,.from whence it runs about 40 miles to Lake Ontario. It is navigable by boats to the falls, where there is a portage, from whence it is again navigable to the lake, and thence tlirough Wood Creek and the portage, to the Mohawk Ri- ver. This river is of great importance, as it forms part of the chain of communication between the Hudson and the lakes ; and, through the medium of Seneca River, it may, in process of time, form also an important communication between Lake Ontario and the small- er, but very important lakes, in the interior of the country. Genesee River rises in the state of Pennsylvania, and running a northern course through the Genesee country nearly 100 miles, falls into Lake Ontario, llie navigation of this river is obstructed by falls; but it abounds with mill-seats, ittid has rich fertile banks. The groat River St. Larvrcnce bounds the state on the nortli, to.theemst ' of Lake Ontario, and receives several important streams in that dis*^' trict: »nd «n the west is the Ma^am JRtV%:r, the communication n ni m t 1^ ''»c; '^i™ —^M '*. " **' ^W-^-^ **-* »«^^ ^> »i ^ "HUfi— ■-«»• ■ • 106 MEW YORK. if IF ' \ i^' between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, on which arc the Falls of Niagara, one of the greatest wonders in the world. This river is navigable to witltin 9 miles of the falls ; and again, from 2 miles a- bove the falls, to Lake Erie. The portuge round the falls is 10 miles ; and, were a canal cut, it would complete the navigation between the lakes, and open an inland navigation of greater extent than is to be found in the world. The head waters of the Allegany, Sus- quehan na, and Delaware Rivers, are in the soutliern part of this state. The state abounds with iron ore and lead ; copper and zinc have been found in various places. Silver ha» been found, but in no great quantity. Marble abounds, and is of an excellent quality. Freestone and slate ore in plenty. Plaster of Paris is found in great variety, and i» used vith good effect as manure. Isinglass and svA' phur are common in macny places r and coal has also been £>imdy but in no great quantity. — Tlie sah-springs at Onondago are very strong, and produce an immense quantity of that useful article. There are many sulphur-springs, and several air*3prings, which last are probably the gas arising from the combustion of pit coal : there is a medicinal spring at Lebanon, which affords a pleasant bath, at the temperature of ^2^, and is much frequented ; but the most re- markable springs in this state, or indeed in the United States, are those df Ballston arid Saratoga. These waters are highly medici- nal, and are of great efficacy in dyspepsia and other complaints ; and are much frequented in the summer season. The soil, in such an extent of country, must be various. The southern and eastern part is a dry gravely mixefl with k>ani, and is not very rich ; the mountainous part is pretty well adapted for grazing, and there are rich valleys on tl>e rivers. The whole of the northern and western part is rich and fertile, except a smaU portion bordering dn the st^te of Pennsylvania^ which, however, is interspersed with fertile lands. The climate is aiso various. In that part whicif lie»tothe south of the highlands^ it is remarkably changeable ; it experiences all the vicissitudes of heat and cold, and sometimes a change of SO degrees in the course of 24> hours. Among the moontaini) and along Lake Champlain, towards Canada, the winters are long and severe, and the summers are sometimes very sultry and hot. In the wes- tern district, the climate is more temperate, and tie winters are subject to a good deal of rain ; but the whole country is healthy, the neighbourhood of ponds and undrained morasses excepted. ^ « M. 9 .^. ) I New YORK. 107 Tlie winter commences about Christmas, and ends with February; but March and April are sometimes cold months. Captain Hudson, a Dutch navigator, discovered Hudson's Kiver, in the year 1609, and about the year 1615, the Dutch took formal possession of the countr}', and formed a settlement at the mouth of Hudson's River, called New Amsterdam, and another 100 miles up the river, called Fort Orange. In 16b4,' Charles H. made a grant of the country to his brother, the duke of York, and an army of 3000 men was sent to take possession of it, which they easily accomplished, and changed the name of New Am- sterdam to Nexo Yorl-y and Fort Orange to Albany. In ITTi* New York took an active part in the ^evolutionary war, and sent four delegates to the general congress. The state constifutibn was framed in 1777, and revised, as it now stands, in 1801. The state sends two senators and 1 7 representatives to congress. The state is divided into 43 counties, and about 300 townships. The population in 1800 was 586,203, including 20,613 slaves; being about 11 to the square mile. This state has progressed rapidly in population, wealth, and inv- provements. There are four incorporated cities, of which New York, already noticed, is the chief. Tlie others are JJbamf, Hudson^ and Skenectady. Albany is the seat of government, and contained, b} the cen- sus of 1800, about 7000 inhabitants; but they have since much in- creased. It is a place of considerable trade, and fast rising into importance. -— -v Hudson is situated at the head of ship navigation, and, though only laid out in 1784<, such has been the rapidity of its growth* that it contained, by the census of 1800, nearly 3000 inhabitants. They have here a very considerable trade, and elegant packets to and from New York. Sfcetiectady is a handsome, well-built city, on the Moliawk river, 16 miles from Albany, and, by the census of 1800, containnd 5289 inhabitants. It is a place of considerable trade, and has a bank, college, and three places for public worship. The other most important towns and villages are Neaoburg, Poughkeepsie, Iroyy Lansinghurghy and Waterfbrdy on the Hudson; UticQy Herktmert and Romej on the Mohawk ; and SkeneatelesSf Geneva, Canandagua, and Buffalo, to the westward. The houses are generally substantially buUt, and are a good deal similar to \ <^ J • -J: h "i?i?' '"'s*^'"-? -— -"fc^*—*-!^ 1- ^*j V5« I 108 NEW YOHK. ' those in the New England states. The roads, bridges, and canals are niiSlerous, and of great importance. The agriculture of the state is far advanced. The staple com- modity is flour, of which a vast quantity is made annually for ex- portation ; and the state raises all the other kinds of produce mentioned in the account of the New England states. Tlie manufactures of the state are considerable, and increasing ; particularly the articles of glass,. ashes, iron-ware of various de- scriptions, leather of all kinds, hats, carriages, paper and print- ing, pottery ware^ umbrellas, mathematical and musical instru- ments. The commerce of the state is exceedingly extended, and has been alluded to in the account of New York ; besides which, there is a great commerce on the lakes and the St. Lawrence, with Canada. The society in this state isvery much mixed. The city and southern part of the state, and along the Hudson and Mohawk rivers, arc mostly of Dutch, Scottish, and Irish extraction. To the west, th* majority are New £nglanders ; but the whole harmonise and unite in this free country, and will soon form one mass of re- publicans. Education was, for a time, considerably neglected; but it is now well attended to, considerable funds being appropri- ated to the support of it. There are several colleges in the state, and many academies : a taste for knowledge is increasing, and with it will increase the good sense of the community, and every useful art. The government of the state is vested in a governor, lieutenant- governor, senate, and house of representatives. The governor a^d lieutenant-governor are elected for three years; the senators for four j and the assembly-men are chosen annually. The neces- sary qualifications for the electors, are six months residence in the state previous to the ekctioii; the possession of a freehold of ^£20. value, or to have rented a tenement of the value of 40 shillings yearly ; and to have been rated on the polls, and actually paid taxes to the state. The funds of this state are reported to be in a most flourishing situation ; and such is the increase in wealth and population, that it is considered one of the most important states in the union. /U* ^. 1..' ■vViS'i-'. -^ '.^ '*»*««"'«Wj~~-J»'; ^-Ty, /^--r-»l'tJ^ ! ' /Hi '■*f »S. and canals )-' * staple com- nually for ex- is of produce I, ad increasing ; of various de- per and print- nusical instru- extended, and besides wliich, pulation, that le union. KEW JERSEY. CHAPTER XXI. 109 Jeney^ — Brunswicky — Princetawn, — Trenton, Wednesday, September 34. Having finished my business in New York, I took leave of my friends, and crossed Hudson's river, at 8 o'clock in the morning. The day was dull and cloudy, 80 that I could see but little; but being quite in the humour for making inquiries regarding this extensive country, I took my place on the fore-seat beside the driver. It surprised me to ob- serve how well informed this class of people are in America. In my journey through the New England states, I was highly gratified by the prompt and accurate answers which they made to my questions ; and I resolved to follow the same plan of obtaining information throughout my tour. We took our departure at 9 o'clock, firom a little town called Jersey, which is the landing-place from New York, and travft* led a few miles through a country rather stony and sandy, to Bergefi, a small village, having a church, and said to be inhabited mostly by Dutch people. A little further on, we reached Hack* ensack river, which we passed by a toll-bridge, and immediate entered into a very extensive swamp, through which the road is cut at a considerable expence. This swamp is said to be 50 miles long, and about four broad, and abounds with grass of a very strong kind, but it must be diiHcult to gather it. We saw, how- ever, that it had been all cut during the summer. We were much molested with inusquetoes of a very large size, during ow pas- sage through it ; soon after which we passed the Passaic liver, and arrived at Newark, nine miles from New York. Hackensack river rises in New York state, and running a south- east course, falls into Newark bay, a little bdow where we crossed it. It is navigable 15 miles up the country. Passaic river rises in the interior of the country, and running upwards of SO miles, by a very winding course, faUs into Newark bay. It u naviga- ble about 10 miles; and, about 14 miles from its.outlet, there are falls on it of 70 feet perpendicular, which form one of the greatest curiosities in the state, and constitute a fine situation for miU-seats, at which a cotton manufactojry has been recently e^ tablished. ■i,'**^ v i v**^" mr- H I si i' ■ v 1 10 TRAVELS IN Newark it a beautiful village, regularly laid oat in broad itreets, on a fine plain, and contains nearly 2000 inhabitants. The pub- lic buildings are two places for public worship, a court-house, and academy. Considerable manu&ctures are carried on here, par- ticularly of leather. The inhabitants have likewise a pretty exten- sive inland trade ; and have a bank to facilitate their commer- cial operations. The country is well cultivated in the neighbour- .hood, and Newark is remarkable for the goodness of its cyder, of which a large quantity is made annually. Six miles beycmd Newark is Elizabethtown, containing two churches and an academy. It is a pretty little place, and the land in its ndg^ourhood is fertile, and well cultivated. Ten miles from thence, through n pretty fertile country, we reached WoodMdget a small village, where we stopped for dinner, -at I o'clock. The day was rainy and disagreeable, so that there was no great pleasure in viewing the country ; and as to amuse- ment in the stagey 1 could get none, for there was a surly-looking man from Charleston, who engrossed all the conversation, and bis whole talk was about cotton, and he spoke as if nobody knew May thing of the matter but himself. At half'past three o'clock, we reached Brunswick, 36 miles from New York, where we crossed the Rariton River, by a wood- en bridge. This is one of the most considerable rivers in New Jersey. It rises about SO miles above this, and, running a south- east course, falls into Rariton Bay at Amboy. It is navigable to •this place, by which means a great trade is carried on with New York. BrunswicIc is an incorporated city, containing about SOOO in- habitants. The greaterpart of it is low, and it is not very hand- .some, but seems to be improving. It was originally settled uiost> ly by Dutch people, and there are three Dutch churches. The other public buildings, worthy of notice, are the Court-House and Academy ; which last is said to be a very thriving seminary. The .lands in the neighbourhood appear rough and rocky; but we were informed that they raised pretty good crops, particularly of grass, • which had, throughout the whole of this district, flourished very •much of lat^ in consequence of the application of plaster of Paris The afternoon continued wet, and the road was very bad, through a level country, about 14 miles, when we passed a, small place called AiMjgston; from whence the road is much improved, and proceeds through a fine country, and by an easy ascei\(, about ;i;^w«>««i«;;;;;;p3iu.#r5g^r<>^^r^ I broatl streets, lU. Thepub- urt-house, and on here, par- a pretty exten- their commer- the neighbour- » of its cyder, containing two ce, and the laud tile country, we »pped for dinner, e, so that there nd as to amuse- s a surly-looking onversation, and if nobody knew nswick, 36 miles liver, byavood- )le rivers in New running a south- [t is navigable to ,n with New York. ^ about SOOO in- is not very hand- dly settled most- churches. The Court-House and seminary. The ;y; but we wew icularly of grass, ft, flourished very f plaster of Pari^ ^d was very bad, repassed a, small much improved, ly asccRj* »^"* NEW jemrT* V in three miles to Princeton^ which we reached a little alter dark. We should have stopped here tor the night ; bat there yrnmC omm en e e* ment ball at the stage-house, and we were informed tliat wemuit move on to Trenton, albeit the night mtm wet and darh^ and w« were sufficiently tired. I was mortified atdiia deeisioir, for I wish- ed very much to see the ball. During the short time we stopped, I went into the ball-room» where the dance was going on, and almost the first object that sainted my eyes, was Miss Gibbons, a dashing belle firom &ivannah. I thought myself at home. But I can't say I was so much pleased with the appearance of the " fair ones," as I was in Yankee-land. There was a great number of ** elegant forms," and ** handsome faces ;" but the dress was, generally speaking, showy, not neat^- the indication of a bad taste; and the most of them had larg^ three inch diameter sort of rings in their ears, called by some of the students, not inaptly, " Cupid's chariot wheels." Nor did the dancing please me. The music was a French cotillion, to which they ^sprawled and sprauchledt' and le tout ensenMe was the very contrast to those soul-inspiring reels and strathmeys which animate our Scots girls, and set them in motion, ** theur feet as pat to the music as its echo." I entered into conversation with some of the students and young ladies who were by-standen, who answered my enquiries with much affability ; and I left the room widi regret when I was called to take my passage in the stage. i- Of the town of Princeton I could, of course, see nothing at that late hour, but I learned that it is handsomely situated on elevated ground, from whence there is a very fine view, through a well cul* tivated adjoining country. The number^ dwelling-houses is a^ bout 100, and the college is reputed one ouhe best seminaries in the United States. Having got a number of the students as passengers, the stage was crowded ; and, on our way to Trenton, it broke down by one of the braces giving way. It is customary in Britain to provide against sn accident of this kind, by having an iron chain to supply the nkce of the brace; and the contrivance being a very simple on^ t thought it would have been adopted here ; but to my surprise there was no chain, and the defect wab supplied by breaking down an ho- nest man's fence, and thrusting a rail under the carriage^ while the passe^igers stood almost up to the ancles in the mud, holding it tip. Being fixed in this way, we jolted on to Trenton, whidi we reached ntsr I 'i o'clock at night. I M ^f \ i''5i ^:. ft' Hi w >-^^S»* _.-...*: ; .J ik.' ¥^ llf NEW JERSEY. - I f • ■ ' Tbentoh ii the cApiUll of New Jeney, and is ttituatad on the Del- aware river, SO mile* from Philadelphia, and 66 from New York. Itis a'handtomelittle town, containing about 200 houses. The public buildings are the state-house, a court-hou^e, an episcopal church, a prcsbyterian church, a quaker meeting-house, and me- thodlst meeting-house. >uft ^tt (u r^ *»^i CHAPTER XXII. New Jersey Is situated between S9^ and 41" 20' north latitude, and 1" SCT and 5* & east longitude. Its length is 145 miles, and its breadth 60. It contains 7920 square miles, being 5,068,800 acres. rj ,^f . The state extends along the sea-coast upwards of 100 miles, which,. With the exception of the highlands of Never Sink, is low and sandy ; but it is more elevated and more diversified towards the interior. The northern part swells out into high lands, and, to- wards the extremity of the state, there are considerable mountains. The principal rivers have been already noticed, and there are no o- ther of any note, though small streams are numerous, and supply the state abundantly with mill-scats. The state abounds with minerals ; producing iron, lead, copper, gypsum, coal, and slate ; and there are several useful clays and Dchres. About one-fourth part of the state is sandy nnd barren ; there arc in , the southern parts extensive pine barrens, and cedar swamps. Large . . tracts of salt meadow run along Delaware bay, and the rivers wbicii fiUl into the Atlantic. ^Along the rivers and small streams in the interior of the state there is much good land ; and the hilly district abounds with fertile valleys. The climateis strikingly different in the different sections of the state. In the northern part there is clear settled weather, and the wi^rs are excessively cold, but the whole is very healthy : in the soiRiem part, particularly towards the extremity, the climate ap- proaches to that of the southern states, and is subject to very sud- d&k changes. . ^ New Jersey was first settled by the Dutch, in 1618 ; but falling V into the hands of the English, it was granted, along with New York, by Charles II., to his brother, the Duke of York. It was a- h' i-i\ WW jmir* 113 mong the first state* that seceded td the iinioa» and mit fire dele- gates to c o ngress, in 1774« It bore a Teiy actife pert in the eon- test for independence^ and was long the theatre of war, in which it suffered great losses and privations. It now sends two senators and six repreaentitives to the congress of the United States. The state is divided into IS counties and 100 townships^ and contains 311,149 inhabitants, including 1S,422 slaves ; bebig i^ wards of 26 persons to the square mile. The principal towns have been already mentioned, besides which there are Burlington and Bordentoum, two considerable places on the Delaware, and Salen and Patterson, in the interior ; which lust is a nianufacturihg town, at the &lls of Pisssaic, already noticed, and is rising fast into importance. The country is pretiy well improved by thriving farms, atid the roads and bridges are numerous. I did not hear of any canals, but I learned there was one projected across the country from Brunswick to Trenton, which, if carried into ef- fect, will certainly be a great improvement, as it will complete the inlaifd navigation between New York and PhiladelphiB. New Jers^ is settled with frugal industrious ilurmers. The pro- duce of the state is wheat, rye, bafley, oats, Indian com, potatoes, and other vegetables, and a vast quantity of fruit; and butter and cheese are made ih great quantites, for the supply of the New York and Philadelphia markets. The inhabitants of New Jersey, eitcept in the towns, make the greater part of their clothing, and there are several manufactories of cottons and woollens, on a large scale. Of iron, the manufactures are very extensive, and the quantity is oonHiderable of leather, glass, and paper. The state has hardly any foreign commerce, nearly the whole being carried on through the medium of New York and Philadelphia. ' The principal sea-port is Amboy, but the direct ex- ports, annually, amount to only a few thousand dollars. The stat# 18 supplied with foreign goods through the large cities already mentioned. • -j The general dissemination of knowledge through the state hiui not been attended to according to its importance. There are nu- merous seminaries for the higher branches ^Fliterjrture; but the state seems defective in common schools. I ke^ the parish schools in Scbtland constantly in my mind,' and I regret when the syftem for the instruction of the liiass of the people does not come up to that standard. -- H ii -^1 w. iK 15 ,/<-s. ■• ^^(( 114 TIAVILI IN :V • I ■■■■ ■> 'S''. Mff.ain a The goTcnuntnt of thu state u vested in a gofernor, legislethrr eouncily and general assembly. The council consists of one member, and the assembly of three members, from each county, chosen aimually by the people, llie governor is diosm annually by the council and assembly. The qualificatifMi finr a voter is £. 50. The state is prospering, and increasing in population and wealth* V i■o▼«|J■»«v♦^4M j;'* . ^v)it»u»n.-j «'^M»i»s> lB-,i ■(#• ;.,f,'* J, ''»■■»»!'• •. • " ■■■^■iai ■■■•Awr'MW *\"''H^-^' ■"•'■■''■" CHAPTER XXIII. ■ ■ • '" iiiis .\>a>^> Trentmi hndgef^Brutolf^PhUaddphitt, Thursday, September 25th, we set out from Trenton, it 6 o'clock in the morning,, and crossed the river Delaware by Tren- ton bridge. This bridge was finished in February last, and be- ing one of the most elegant in the United States, and different in construction from any I have seen before, it merits a particular description. It consists of five arches of 194 feet*span each, built of white pine^ and supported on strong stone piers; the whole length is 970 feet; the breadth S6. Ti?e arches are elevated over head by substantial rafters, and the plattbrm, or carriage-way, is suspended by these arches, and forms a plane the whole length of tlte bridge. Above the top of the arches the roof is covered in, so as to secure the whole from the weather ; and the cat riage-way is divided into two sections, each of which is apropriated to tra- vellers in one direction. At the entrance, passengers are directed to take the road on the right hand; Upon the whole, this is a very elegant piece of architecture. It was commenced in 1804, and is the plan of a mechanic of the name of Burr. tTbe Delaware i^ a noble river. Its head waters are in Neir York stat^ from whence it pursues a south-east course, forming the boundary between that state and Pennsylvania, about 60 miles, and thence forms the boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey, upwards of 100 mure to this place, where there are falls, but of no great height. From hence it increases in breadth, dunng a course of 36 miles, to Philadelphia, where it is. a mile broad. As it proceeds downwards it gradually increase^, and, 40 .miles below Philadelphia, at Newcastle, it is two miles broad, .^ence it spreads out into a spacious bay, and falls into Ut« A^ ^^^> • mrHtfttVAMiA. lis lantilc ocean 70 mllet below Newcastle^ ito ontlet being 25 miltt wide. It M navigable for vcesels of any burden to Philaddtthli ; for iloops and other small craft to Trenton, where it is obstruct cr'( by the falls ; but above them it is navigable for boats upwards of 100 miles. Immediately after passing this river we were in the state of Pennsylvania ; and among the first houses that attracted my no* tice was Morrisville, the seat of general Mortau. It is a fine house, with elegant grounds about it ; and I have no doubt but the general finds it a hi^py retreat from the turbulent scenes of Europe. I could not pass this place without a great variety of reflections. General Moreau bore an active part . in the French revolution, and supported a character in arms, rivalled only by that of Bonaparte himself. He fought for republican principle^ and braved every danger to establish them in his native land* His reputation rose with his extraordinary merit, and be was in. the full tide of popularity in the republic, which he had served to establish, when, by a sudden transition of fortune, that republia. vanished from the earth : his great rival in arms was elevated to a throne i and he was eipled to the banks of the Delaware. But. happy, in my mind, is he who is thus exiled. A republican finds here a republic, and the only repnblic on the fiwe of the earth that ever deserved the name: where all ^xe under the protection of equal laws ; of laws made by T}{EMS|iLVES : where eveiy man ** sits under his vine^ and under his fig>tree^ and none to make him afraid ;" and where, far removed from the turbulence and din of maddened Europe, )ie can enjoy ** health, and peace, and sweet content." i*tt-/i From Trenton bridge we travelled 10 miles, to BHstoU The road was good, and passes partly by the river sid^ through a level country, but the soil is rather sandy. The banks of the river are very beautiful, and adorned with many elegant villas. Bristol is a handsome village, on the banks of the rivor, and contuna probably IQO houses, many of them elegant« A few miles beyond Bristol we passed a considerable creek, and oontinuing our course near the river side, through a very fine oouiUa^ we passed- through frankfordi five miles firom Philadelphia* Thif is an elegant vil- lage^ containing about lOQ houses, and is a pli^e-. qf considowUct resort for the inhabitants of Philadi^phiau the: summer season* A little beyond this we passed a rising ground^ called Prospect '4 <^:z^ ik A' 116 TRAVIU IM Hill, wlMrt 'm luul th« fint viww uf Philadelphia. Th« tomI btM it brood* and wtU, mauUad with brolc«n stoiici, which ren* den travelling pretty rough, but it if good upon the wliole. Tlte coantry ia now rich and level, abounding in gardens and orphardi; and exhibiu every appearand of tlie approach to tk great city. On entering the city, 1 was quite delighted with tlio regularity of the itreetis and beauty of the buildings. The sUgc drove nearly a mile through the city, and I took up my residence at the M«i(- lioa-Hou«« Hotel, ii) Thkd-itreet, ., fi f I' k' M ', >'>■♦• '.V< ■> j ;: i CHAPTER XXIV. ' ' : ^ vd •^^^•. f.^^U'^r^ „. ., .... '^' rr '■ *' ■ -^ • '\ Phtladelphta. This dty is situated between the Delaware and Schuylkill livers, about four miles above their junction. It is laid out on an elegant plan, with streets crossing one another at right angles, and extends between the two rivers being upwards of twp miles in length, from east to west, and *a little more than one mile in breadth. There are large suburbs to the north and south, on the Delaware river, called the Northern Liberties, Kensington, and Southwark; and these extend upwards of a mile to the north, aad half a mile south of the city, making the extreme length on the Delaware river nearly three miles. But the city is closely built to the westward only about a mile ; the buildings on the remaining part, towards the Schuylkill, being very thinly scatter- ed. It is however rapidly filling up in that direction. High or Market-street is about 100 feet broad, and running ^he wlbole. length of the cily, is terminated by the Schuylkill bridge to the west. A street of equal breadth, called Broad-street, crosses it in the middle, where there is a large area, called Centre-Square^ on which the water-works are built. Tlie streets running pa- rallel to High-street are named after various trees said to have been found on the ground on which they are laid out. To the north, are Mulbenyt Sassafras, and Vinet to the south, Chetmit^^ Walnut, Locust, Spruce, Pine, and Cedar, The cross streets are numbered according to situation from the rivers, thus, Front, Second, Third, and so on, to Thirteenth, on the Delaware side j and 6wn Front to Eighth, on the SchayUull md$» Mulbeny^. ''^T-' •- riKKBYLTAMIi. 117 » - Street li 60 feet wide, and all the other ttreeti ara 00. It waa the intention of the benevolent projector of the city that FronC- ttrcet, on the Delaware, should have bt»n the eastern boundarj, and that tlie spav'c between that and the river thonld have been converted into public w ground along the margin of the river, called Waternitreet. In the original plan thv're were a great number of public squares, but sevcrail of thom have also been infringed upon, though thort arc still many left, which are very ornamental to the city. This city contained, by the censiu-of 1800, 81,000 inhabitants, aiiJ. as there has been a great increase since, they are now es- timated at iipwards pf 90,000 ;* an4 the buildings at upwards of 14,000. The city is composed almost wholly of brick houses, covered with slate, or sliinglcs; and. they are generally ornamented with marble stepf, with spies and lintels for the doors and windows ; which form an elegant poptfast with the brick, and add much to the beauty of the buildings. . Some of the public buildings are wholly composed of marble, and others are much ornamented with it, yrhich giyes the city an elegant and even magnificent ap- pearance. The public buildings are very numerous. The bare mention of a few of them will be sufficient to convey an idea of the im- l)ortance^f this city. The StaterHpuse, with the Cqurt^Housea and Philosophical Hall adjoining, th^ Dispensary, Alm8-House« Hospital, Jail, Carpenter's Hall, College, Academy, Library} two theatres, four btmks, ^ve quakcr meeting-thouses, six presby- terian churches, three episcopal churches, four. Roman catholic churches, three methodist churches, and one each for German Calvinists, German Lutherans, S^cdi^ Lutherans, Moravians, baptists, Jews, and universalists.f The State-House is remarkiiklip as being the place from whence the independence of the Uqited States was first proclaimed; and the legislature of the United States held their meetings in the adjoining buildings, while Philadelphia was the seat of the gene-r • Bj tkff OOUut dt 1810^ the oty aiid country contain 1 11.310^ t A uaitarim ehwr^ii now (tSlS) buiUii^;. ;< i 4 f^- t^r ^mSm 'u .6.^ r-ir^— ^^;. <,f- ■4 •\ I ¥"■'< i I' 118 TKAVEL8 IN ral goremment. When the legislature of Pennsylvania continu- erts consist of |[ndia produce, the state, in (65,240 dollars y be reckoned inhabitants of s, who find an mit in domes- in the custom- ers, who have nt from what They are in- nmercial* they style which is giselves within PENNSYLVANIA. 119 bounds, and secure what they gain. Education is on ah excellent footing : besides the larger seminaries already noticed^ there ere numerous academies and schools throughout the dty. The arte and sciences have been long cultivated. A Philosophical Society was established in the year 1769, and they have published severid volumes of their transactions. The Library Company was esta- blished as early as the year 17S1. — The other societies of greatest importance are the College of Physicians, bstitnted for the purpose of promoting medical, anatomical, and chemical knowledge; the Pennsylvania!! Society for promoting the Abolition of Slavery, and the relief of free Negroes unlawfully held in bondage; the Pennsyl- vania Academy of Fine Arts ; the Agricultural Society ; Premium Society ; a Society for alleviating the Miseries of Public Prisons ; Humane Society ; Marine Benevolent Society ; St. Andrew's So- ciety; Scots Thistle Society ; St. Patrick's Society ; Hibernian So- ciety; St. George's Society; Welsh Society; French Benevolent Society ; German Society. Tlic Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania is established here, and there are 15 or 16 lodges of free-masons. The police of the city is said to be better regulated than that of any other on the continent. It appears to be much better than New York. There are public scavengers, who clean the streets at stated times, and the side pavements are generally washed every morning. These are broad, and generally well paved with brick, and, the streets being lined with rows of treees, a walk through the city in a summer morning is delightful. The dty is elevated Si) or 60 feet above the river, in consequence of which there is an ample descent for the water; and the streets are well supplied with common sewers, which serve to carry oft all the filth ; and they are kept sweet by the supply of fresh water from the water- works, which is constantly pouring into them from every part of tlie city. This supply of water also keeps the streets pure by running along the gutters, so that almost every street has a little stream on each side of it; and this circumstance, though ap- parently trivial, is probably of more importance than is generally imagined. They have here, as well as in New York, adopted the plan of sinking necessaries ; but I was informed that those in Philadelphia must be regularly cleaned, and I did not observe the smell to be near so offensive as at New York: both cities, however, in my / ■J' 190 traVbls IM L\. i.f } opinion, would admit «f great improvemerit in this impoitaift Jl>ranch of police.* ; Tlie inhabitants generally have fresh complexions, the indi- cation of temperance and healths Their drew and manners are pretty much assimilated to those of New Yorkj although there is a considerable sprinkling of the quaker habits difllised through , the city, which may at first view,* to a stranger, appear more for- bidding and austere ; but, on the other hand, the attention they do pay, being the result of consideration, may probably be more sincere^ and their friendship of a kind that will wear welli :.i \u CHAPTER XXV. JPhiiadelphiat—- Water-workSi — Sfate Prison^ — Library^ — Museumt —FaUs of PehuylkiU, X HE two first days of m); stay in Philadelphia wer6 Wet and stormy, so that I could sec but little. I took a ride, in company with a friend, to the flo&ting bridge on the Schuylkill river, near its junction with the Delaware. The river is here about SOO yards broad, and the country between it and Philadelphia is levelj rich, and well cultivated. On the 37tb, I went to seethe water-work:;. The building which contains the reservoir is in the Centre-Square, being the most elevated ground in the city. It occupies a square of 60 feet; firom the middle there is a circular tower, 40 feet in diameter, and 60 feet high, which contains the reservoir; and this tower is terminated by a dome, which gives it a very handsome appearance. The water is conveyed to this building from tlie Scbuylkill, a dis- tance of nearly a mile, through a circular brick '^ tunnel, of six * Sunk iiecetmrles ara, I believe, conunon throughout the United States, and iMve, At first view, the appearance of contributing to cleanlines*!, as thuy are deposi- toriee under ground tot every kind of filth. But it is to be observed, that the filth eollected in them is constantly generating a most offensive and pernicious gas, which mingles with the atmosphere, is breathed every day by the inhabitants of large cities^ and must contribute to render them unhealthy. Would it not be wise to prevent this? lliere is no way of doing it, I apprehend, but by consUucting necessaries on a plaa that they may be cleaned once a week or oftener, and have this, and all other filth deposited in dung-hills in the country, tram whence it jnay be taken to manure the ground. In some cities that have come under my observation, the price obtained f«r tfic naniire, is more than equal to the expence of keeping them clean. Ki-V \\ V ) PENNSYLVANIA. ISl lis important as, the indi- manners are [though there Fused through jeor more for- attention they t>ably be more ar welli wer6 ^^et iind ic, irt company rlkill river, near about 800 yards ia is levels rich, The building [uare, being the uareof 60 feet; >et in diameter) ,nd this tower is ime appearance, luylkill, adis- tunnel, of six feet diameter, having a fall of six inches toward the Schuylkill. The water is received from the Schuylkill into a substantial basin and canal, and from thence is raised by a steam-engine to the level of the aqueduct, which conveys it to the Centre- Square. It is there received into another bnsin, and tht ice, by another steam- engine, is elevated to the circular tower, from whence it issues through wooden pipes, in all directions, to supply the city. - ., The whole t::pence of the works was about 150,000 dollars (d£.33,750 sterling.) The work was undertaken by the corporation, who raised the funds partly by a tax, and partly by loan, allow- ing the subscribers to the loan six per cent, interest for their money, and the use of the water free for three years, for every 100 dollars subscribed. Tiie city is supplied with water by contract, and the contrac- tor is obliged to supply three millions of gallons per day if requir- ed. 1 he annual expense is six thousand dollars for one million of gallons per day, and for any additional quantity, up to two millions, the expense is at the rate of half that sum. The engine is 40 horse power, and can raise, if necessary, four millions and a half of gallons per day ; so that the supply must be abundant for every purpose. The water is soft and good ; but it is not filtered, and is, of course, sometimes muddy, though never so much so 9S to render it unfit for use ; and it is always wholesome. It is of great importance to .these works that they are the property of the public, and not sub- ject to individual speculation, in consecjuence of which the supply is liberal, and there are fountains in every street, to which the whole public have access. The water con be used for watering the streets, or extinguishing fires, as often as may be necessary; while every householder, by paying a reasonable compensation, can have a hy- drant in any part of his premises that he pleases, even to the attic story. In short, this water is a great luxury, and is, in my opinion, ot incalculable advantage to the health, as it certainly is to the con- venience and comfort of the community. The supply of cities with water ii a subject of great importanpfe}^ and it is to be hoped that the inhabitarts of other places in the Unit^ States will profit Joy the laudable example set them by the citizet^ of Philadelphia, and the happy effects which have resulted froiaL.]^ The power of the steam-engine, properly applied, can send to any city, and cities are generally sufficiently opulent to bear expense. All that is wanting is a proper plan, put in motion by"t^f * ^^ ' « J^J TRAVEU IM «oine of the leading men. On this branch I hare to notice that a great saving can be made from the application of the forcing pump, by which means the water can be conveyed to any reasonable height and distance, by one engine. Tlie conductor must, in that case, be constructed of metallic tubes, which can be made of any diame- ter, according to the supply of water wanted ; and they must be furnished with valves, to prevent the reaction of the water. I shall also notice in this place that filtration of the water is a great improvement, and it can be easily done, to any extent what-' ever, by the application of a plan, the invention of a very ingenious mechanic in Scotland, which I shall here communicate. I shall describe it from the model which I saw ; the application to any scale is easy. The model consisted of a cask, in which was inserted a false bottom, about three inches above the real bottom ; the false bottom was perforated with small holes, and in the middle was a tube, elevated a little above the top of the cask,' and which formed a communication through the false bottom to the space be- low : the cask was filled with gravel of a proper kind for filtration. The water was conveyed through the tube into the space between the two bottoms, where it deposited the greater part of its sediment, &nd rising upwards through the gravel, on the principle of a spring, ran over the top of the cask, pure and transparent. The effect was as complete as could be imagined. The water that he used was very muddy, and was, by this simple contrivance, rendered perfect- ly pure; the contrast being so great, that when it was exhibited in the different states in clear wine-glasses, the one, to use the invent- or's expression, was like punch, the other like pure spirits. He informed me that the gravel answered bettei* at the time I viewed it than it did at first, probably in consequence of the mud already deposited attracting that in the water. He had not used it long enough to ascertain the period at which it would get too much choaked up by the mud ; but he had a contrivance to obviate the effect of it, equally simple and efficacious with all the rest. It con- sisted in opening a stop-cock below, and letting the water filter downwards, by which means it would wash all the sediment along with it. I have seen different filters, some of them upwards, some down- wards, and some lateral ; but I never saw any so simple and so complete as this. The best mode of applying the .phin upon a large scale would, I ■s • PENNSYLVANIA. ^ ]2i think, be this i to have a reservoir of from 10 to 20 feet deep, and of any dimensions that might be wanted for the purpose intended ; have it lined and bedded with hewn stone, and divided into three apartments ; let one of these receive the water, where it will deposite its sediment; from thence let it run into the second, containing thy filter; and from thence be conveyed into the third, clear for use. It is to be observed that the first of these apartments must be e- levated a little ^bove the second, and the second above the third; and the elevation may be great or small, according to the rate at which the water is required to circulate from the one to the other. Froni|^he Water-works I went, accompanied by a friend, to see the State Prison. I was introduced to one of the inspectors, who was also one of the founders of the institution. He accompanied us, and explained the whole system very much to my sntisfaction. This benevolent institution owes its origin to the enlightened ci- tizens of Philadelphia. Its object is to receive the vicious, and, if possible, to reclaim them to virtue ; and is an admirable constrast to the sanguinary punishments of old governments, who, for even pecuniary offences, send them off to the other world to be reclaim- ed there. This institution does not admit offenders till after con- viction, when they ai'e received from the different parts of the state. It is hence called the State-Prison. When a criniinal is received, his name is put upon record, or, to use a commercial idea, he be- comes a partner in the concern, and an account is accordingly rais- ed ibr him in the books. - Inquiry is then made what he can do; if he can work at any trade, he is taken to the apartment where that branch is carried ob, and has his task assigned him. If he can work at no trade he is sent to saw marble. As a stimulus to industry, the convicts get credit in the books for the proceeds of their labour, and are debited with the expense of their board and clothing, which however is not very expensive, as every thing is conducted upon an economical plan, and when tliey are released, should their earn- ings be more than theexpence of maintenance, the balance is paid to them. Almost every trade is carried on in the prison ; and the institu- tion is so organized that every necessary of life is attended to by the convicts themselves : baking, copking, scrubbing the rooms, and so on ; and every thing is kept remarkably clean. The food is wholesome and nutritive, consisting of Indian meal, bread, anfd meat The drink is molasses and water; and no spirituous ItquOiri are admitted within the walls of the prison. ^-' 124 THAVELS IN it-,v ■^, There is a separate apartment for the reception of female con- victs, where the various parts of female labour are carried on, and it is otherwis? under the same lij'stcm of management as that for •the males. 1 visited every apartment, and was highly pleased with the order and economy of the whole establishment. In the course of our vi- sit, one of the convicts came up to our conductor, and solicited very strongly for his recommendation in his favour. Upon mak- ing enquiry what he meant by this, I was informed, that, as the ob- ject is purely to protect society from the inroads of the vicious, and to reclaim the vicious to civilized lite, the governor has the power of mitigating the punishment, and of pardoning ihe offenders, upon receiving satisfactory evidence that the applicant is fit for civil so- ciety; and the best evidence being the opinion of the inspectors of the prison, the criminals are, of course, anxious to procure it in their favour. This is a very happy stimulus to good behaviour. Our conductor observed that it was a very sacred trust, and to be used with great caution. He did not think this chap was yet ripe for a release, — he must wait a little. T'he wliole institution is under the direction of competent nian- - agers ; and, to insure proper discipline, there is a gradation of punishments within the prison, consisting chiefly of solitary con- finement in cells. - -.- I notice this subject particularly, because it is, so far as I know, of pure American origin, and is happily adapted to the genius of the government of the country, mild, just, and merciful. Some of the other states already noticed, have imitated the example of Penn- sylvani? ; and I was informed that the plan was likely to be gene, rally adopted throughout the Union. •4^- We next visited the Library, the account of which I shall trans- cribe from the Continuation of the Life of Dr. Franklin, -.V «' The promotion of literature had been little attended to in Penn- sylvania, Most of the inhabitants were too much immersed in bu- siness to think of,scientific pursuits; and those few whose inclina- tions led them to study, found it difficult to gratify them, from the want of sufficiently large libraries. In such circumstances the estab- lishment of a public library was an important event. This was first set on toot by Franklin, about the year 1731. Fifty persons «.;• seribetl forty shillings each, and agreed tt) pay ten shillings annu- ally. The number increased, and, in 1742, the company was c"*.,. VBNNSYLVANM. ltd f female con- rried on, and mt as that for vith the order irse of our vi- , and solicited Upon mak- hat, as the ob- le Ticious, and [las the power )ftenders, upon fit for civil so- the inspectors o procure it in ood behaviour, trust, and to be ip was yet ripe competent nian- a gradation of )f solitary con- far as I know, to the genius of ciful. Some of jcample of Penn- kely to be gene- ch I shall trans- nklin., ided to in Penn- immersed in bu- w whose inclina- y them, from the tances the estab- This was first ty persons "'.- shillings anau- le company was incorporated by the name of * The Library Company of Phila- delphia.' Several other companies were formed in this city) in imitation of it ; and these were all, at length, united with the Library Company of Philadejpiia, which thus received a con- siderable accession of books and property. It now contains about 8000 volumes on all subjects, a philo8ophi(;al apparatus, and a good beginning towards a collection of natural and artificial cu- riosities, besides landed property of considerable value. The com- pany have lately built an elegant house in Fiflh-street, in the front of which will be a marble statue of their founder, Benja- min Franklin* " This institution was greatly encouraged by the friends of literature in America and in Great Britain. The Penn family distinguished themselves by their donations. — Among the earliest friends of this institution must be mentioned the late Peter Col- linson, the friend and correspondent of Dr. Franklin. He not only made considerable presents himself, and obtained many others from his friends, but voluntarily undertook to manage tlui business of the company in London, recommending books, pur- chasing and shipping them. His extensive knowledge, and zeal for the promotion of science, enabled him to execute this impor- tant trust with the greatest advantage ; and he continued to per- form these services for more than 30 years, and uniformly refused to accept of any compensation. During this time, he communi- cated to the directors every information relative to improvements and discoveries in arts, agriculture, and philosophy. *' The beneficial influence of this institution was soon evident. The cheapness of the terms rendered it accessibly to every one. Its advantages were not confined to the opulent. The citizens in the middle and lower walks of life were equally paitakcrs of them. Hence a degree of information was extended among all classes of the people, whiph is very unusual in other places. The example was soon followed. Libraries were established im various places, and they are now become very numerous in the United States, particularly in Pennsylvania. It is to be hoped that they will be still more widely extended, and that information will be every where increased. This will be the best security for maintaining our liberties. A nation of well-informed men, who have been taught to know and prize the rights which God has given them, cannot be enslaved. It is in the regions of ignorance that tyranny /: ] I 1 16 . "^ TRAVEL* IM reigns. It fliet before the light of science. Let the citizens of America, then, encourage institutions calculated to diffuse know- ledge amongst the people; and among these, public ubrarier are not the least important." # The library has been since removed to the building alluded to in the above extract. It is elegant and comm'odious, and has a statue of Franklin in front, the donation of the late Mr. Bing- ham. The library now consists of more than 14,000 volumes, in all the various departments ot literature. It is divided into shares of 40 dollars each; but tiie number is unlimited. The subscribers iure at present upwards of 500. Besides the purchase of the share, each subscriber pays two dollars annually, to the support of the institution. The library is open every day, except Sunday, from 2 o'clock to sunset, and the subscribers may either read in the library, or be accommodated with books to read in their houses. The rule relative to strangers and non-subscribers is very liberal. They may have the use of the books in the library, while it is open, free of expense, or, on depositing the value, may borrow books and peruse them at home, on paying a small sum for the use of them. I may take occasion to remark here that I consider 40 dollars of entry to a library too high, and two dollars 6i annual subscrip- tion too low. The great object of a library is to disseminate knowledge. To secure that object, the library should be witliin the reach of every member of the community. But every one cannot afford to give 40 dollars at once, while the greater part of those who wish to read can afford more than two dollars a year. The class of people to whom an institution of this kind is the most raluable is young men entering into the world, many of whom pould not, or would i)ot willingly, advance 40 dollars, but who would cheerfully give four or five dollars a year. Would it not be a wise regulation to accommodate such ? v's'f The most flourishing library, in point of funds, that I have heard of, is one in London, where the entry is one guinea, and the annual subscription is the same. It is entirely public, unclog-> ged with any idea of stock, or shares. The subscribers are above 1000, and the.income is, of course, above 1000 guineas a year. The Glasgow public library is on a similar plan, but with more 'ff'j'. ^ ixf' ii?^s;^v mi .^ %-^ riNMSYLVAMIA. IS7 limited fundi, and it the mott tliriviug iniititution of tlM kind that ha* ever come under my observation.* From the library we passed to Peale's Museum, which is a very excellent collection, principally of subjects in natural history, and does honour to the ingenuity and ta»te of the proprietor. Among other curiosities it contains an entire skeleton of the mammoth, well worth the attention of the naturalist. ^ I took a walk to the Schuylkill bridge, which is an elegant structure, consisting of three arches, built of wood, supported by strong stone piers, and covered in on the top. The length of the bridge is 550 feet, besides the abutments nnd wing walls, which are 750 more. The span of the middle arch is 198 feet, that of the other two 150 each. It is 42 feet wide. The footways on each side occupy five feet each, and the carriage-way, which is di- vided into two parts, 32. The bridge, which was six years in build* ing, was finished last year, and the expence was 235,000 dollars. September 28* Having visited every thing I wished to nee in the city, I was invited by a party of friends to take a jaunt in the country. We crossed Schuylkill by the foresaid bridge, and travelled four or five miles, to see a flax spinning-mill, belonging to a gentleman from Dundee. The mill was not at work, but we were informed that the business was doing very well ; the pro- duce was mostly twine. Being joined by the Dundee manufac* turer, we passed on to the Falls of Schuylkill, where, at a very pleasant situation on its banks, we stopped for dinner. The Schuylkill river rises in the mountains, about 120 milea north-west of Philadelphia, and is navigable from Reading down- wards to the upper falls, three miles above where we stopped* The tide rises to the lower £ills, where the river is about 150 yards broad. The falls are much broken by huge masses of stone, with which the bed and banks of the river abound. The banks are highly romantic, and are ornamented with many ele* gant country seats. While dinner was preparing we had a dish of politics, in which frequent appeals were made to me ; but I declined taking any share in the argument, for I did not fully agree with either party. Indeed I saw pretty plainly that self-interest was at the bottom of it, and that the party names they assumed were merely • See Aependii, No. f . . 'A 128 TRAVELS IW^ Other termi for importers and manufaeturgrs, who conceiving that their interests were opposed to each other, blamed the government of the United States— the one party for doing too much in sup- port of domestic manufactures, and the other for doing too little. But all was discussed in good humour. After dinner we returned, through a pleasant, well-cultivated country, by an excellent turnpike road, and in our way stopped at Harrowgate, where there is a medicinal spring, whicli is a good deal frequented in the summer season. We returned to the city in the evening. The day was clear and pleasant, and the air cool and healthy. *'■ lis; ■ r.*^?:.'/' ? /« "Mi { :;:;;.•.> '■.■\Si<^ !*"»* CHAPTER XXVI. Pennsylvania. This fine state is situated between S9« 43' and 42" north Ixi- titude, and 2"* 20' east, and 3" 30' west longitude. It is 320 miles long, from east to west, and 162 miles broad; and contains 49,390 square miles, being 31,609,600 acres. The face of the country is remarkably diversified. The south- cast part, to the distance of al>out 60 or 70 miles from Philadel- phia, is an undulating country, swelling in some places into con- siderable hills; but it is not mountainous. The mouriinoiis re- gion then commences, and extends across the country about 120 miles. The mountains arc generally in long chains, running north-east and south-west. Between the chains, the country is rough and hilly, but there are many fine valleys, and the whole abounds with picturesque scenery. To the north and west of the mountains, the country is elevated, abounding with hills, vail eys and rich scenery; which cpntinue about 120 miles, to the ex- tremity of the state. The country is remarkably well watered. Lake Erie is situated on the north-west, and the Delaware bay on the south-east, by both of which there are fine outlets, the one afiording direct and speedy communication with the Atlantic Ocean, the other com- municating with.it by the more circuitous course of the river St. Lawrence ; while it is a link in the chain of an inland navigation, •xtendiog through the lakes upwards of a thousand miles. To t It.' ) ) ,'/• ' FINNSYLVAMIA* 189 ceivinf^ that \ government uch in »up- ing too little. 'ell-cuUivated way stopped , wliicli is a turned to the t, nnd the air 42" north lii- le. It is 320 ; and contains . The soulh- from Philadd- accs into con- 10U r.iin<)us re- [itry about 120 lains, running the country is and the whole nd west of the h hills, valleys es, to the ex- Erie is situated south-east, by log direct and the other com- of the river St. and navigation, md miles- To a! the south>wc9t, the state communicates with the Ohio, having an outlet through the Miraissippi, to the Gulf of Mexico; and from the middle there is an outlet through the Susquehannah to the Chesapeak bay. The rivers Delaware and Schuylkill have been already men- tioned. The most important of the others I shall notice in their order from east to west. The Lehigh rises among the mountains, between the Delaware and Susquchannah, and running a very crooked passage, emer- ges from the mountains about 50 miles jfrom its source, and from thence runs through a fine country 30 miles, during which it is navigable, to Easton, where it falls into the Delaware. The Susquchannah is a noble river, and appears on the map like a large crooked tree, with numerous branches. The head waters of tlie eastern branch are numerous, and rise in the state of New York, not far from the waters of the Mohawk river. Passing in- to the state of Pennsylvania, it makes a remarkable bend, called appropriately the Big Betid ; from thence it makes a stretch into New York, and passing to the westward, about 40 miles, tunis again to the southward, and passes into the state of Pennsylvania, where it forms a junction with the Tioga river at Tioga point It then runs a south-east course, about 70 miles ; when making k'^ sudden bend, at a right angle, it runs a south-west course, about 80 miles, and unites with the western branch, at Northumber- land. The river is now nearly half a mile broad, and flows through the mountains, nearly a south course of 40- miles, to where it receives the Junita river. From thence it makes a con- siderable bend to the eastward, and running about 10 miles, it emerges from the mountains, above Harrisburg; and keeps a south-east course about 80 miles, when it falls into the Cliesa- peak bay. The Tioga river has its head waters partly in Pennsylvania, and partly in New York, where some of the streams approach within a few miles of the waters of the St. Lawrence. These ^ll unite in New York state, towards the Painted Post, and run a south- east course of nearly 40 miles, to the junction with the Sufque- hannah. The western branch of the Susquchannah is formed by many streams, beyond the Allegany mountains, some of them approacliing within a tew miles of the waters of the St. Lawrence, and others 17 .,„^>'i >■ • '-•"r-" v--,..^. ••)■ / .'I '\ 130 PBNNSYLVANIA. within afewr miles of the waters of the Ohio and Missisnippi, and runs a very circuitous course, upwards of 200 miles, pi inci))ally among the mountains, to its junction with the cast branch. The Junita river rises on the Ailcf^any mountains, near the head waters of the Conemaugh, a branch of the Ohio, and pass- ing through the mountains to the eastward, by a very serpentine course, it falls into the Susquchannah as aforesaid, its length be- ing nearly 200 miles. The length of the Susquehannah, from the Chesapeak bay to the head of the eastern branch, is upwards uf 4e50 miles; and the whole river, including its branches, waters a country nearly 200 mill's square. It is navigable for large vessels only a few miles, and there are many islands, rocks, and falls, which obstruct the navigation for boats ; but it is presumed that these can be remov- ed, and that, by the aid of some locks and canals, it can be ren. dered navigable, almost to the source of the eastern branch. The western branch is navigable, tor boats, nearly 150 miles, and the Junita river nearly 120. From this short account, the impor- tance of improving the navigation of this fine river will be readily inferred. The Allegany River rises on the highest land in the state, to the westward of the mountains, within a few miles of the head waters of the Genesee River, and the western branch of the Sus- quchannah. It is here called Oswaya Creek, and runs a north- west course into the state of New York, and, passing again into the state of Pcnnsylvanniu, it receives the waters of Conewongo Creek and Cliataughque Lake. From thence it runs a winding course, but generally south-west, (o Franklin, where it receives the waters of French Creek. From thence it runs a circuitous course about 100 miles, receiving in its progress many tributary streams, particularly Toby's Creek and Kishkemanetas River, and at Pittsburg Ibrms a junction with the Monongahcla, which together constitute the Ohio. - The Allegany is a navigable river, and the navigation is con- tinued through French Creek to Waterford, from when ce there i« a portage of only 14 miles to Lake Erie. The navigation is extended into the country 20 or 25 miles, by the Kishkemanetan River. The Monongalielu rises in Virginia, n ear the Laurel mountains, and, running by a meandering course about 70 miles, passes into t^ ■' "v-v.^ '^fv- "::;::-" aaji;- ^ pvincipally anch. ii», near th« o, and past- ry lerpentina its length bc- mpeakbny to iiilcs ; and the y nearly 200 y a few miles, h obstruct th« :an be remov- it can be ren- branch. The miles, and the It, the impor- will be readily ,n the state, to es of the head ch of the Sus- l runs a uortli- sing again into of ConewonfTo •uns a winding lere it receives ms a circuitous many tributary nanetas River, angahcla, which vii- 133 PENNSYLVANIA. The state was first settled by the Swedes and Finlaiiders in 1627, and afterwards by the illustrious Willian Pcnn, in 1681 ; and from the liberal principles which he adopted, and the en- couragement held out to settlers of all denominations, the country experienced a rapid progress. The state took an active part in the revolutionary war, during great part of which Philadel])ljiu was the seat of congress. A state constitution was framed at an early perioil of the war; but a new one was adopted in 1790. The state now sends two senators and eighteen representatives to congress. »• • ' ' / Pennsylvania is divided into 37 counties, and upwards of 500 townships. The population, in 1800, was 602,365, including 1 150 slaves, being about \ti persons to the square mile. . The state has made rapid {)rogress in national improvehients, and abounds in all the conveniences, and many of the luxuries of life. The accumulation of property since the close of the war is very great; and, exclusive of Philadelphia, the state contains 12 towns, in which there are from 1000 to ioOO inhabitants, among which Lancaster, York, Reading, Carlisle, and Pittsburg are the most conspicuous. Besides these, there are upwards of 20 villages, each containing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants, and the greater part, if not the whole of those towns and villages are increasing va wealth and population. The farm houses are most- ly comfortable, many of them elegant, and there are fine barns and other buildings. The state is well improved by turnpike roads and bridges ; and lately a great degree of attention has been paid to canals. Many turnpike and canal companies have been formed. The agriculture of the state has progressed rapidly, and is in an advanced state. The staple article is wheat, of which the quanti- ty manufactured into flour annually is inmiense. It is reckoned the best in the United States, and surpassed by none in the world. The mountainous district is pretty much applied to raising stock. The breed of horses is reckoned the best in the United States. Sheep have of late greatly increased, and thrive remarkably well. All the grains, grasses, and roots common to the other states tlirive here. The stock of fruit, particularly peachos, is excellent; and some progress has of late been made in the cultivation of the vine. Pennsylvania is said to be one of the greatest manufacturing states in the Union. Domestic manufactures are general throughout ?ENWSVLVAN1A. 133 Finlanders in the state; but there are many manufacturers on a large scale, some of which may b« enumenUcd. . Of iron there arc above thirty fiir- naces, besides numerous forges, slitting mills, and trip hammerR. Of wood, all sorts of furniture, and implements of husbandry. Of leather, boots, shoes, saddles, bridles, harness, &c. Of wool, a variety of cloths, stockings, and hat*. Together with a variety of other article.'}, such as malt liquors, spirits, glass, ashes, maple- sugar, musqucts, powder, shot, balls, cannon, bells, &c. &c. The exports consist principally of grain, flour, iron utensils, flaxseed, soap and candles, lumber, beef, pork, &c. The amount of exports, in 1805, was 13,762,252 dollars, of which 4,365,240 dollars was domestic produce. The principal articles of export to Britain are grain and flour, and sopie cotton from the southern states. The imports consist of East and West India and China goods; wine, gin, &c. from the continent of Europe; and manu- factures from Britain ; of which the quantity imported is immense, and is yearly increasing. The value of imports is about 12,000,000 dollars annually, of which those from Britain are a full half; from whence we may infer the utility of the trade to both countries, and the importance of a good understanding between them. The state of society may be pretty much inferred from the pre- ceding remarks. The inhabitants have every external appearance of ease and affluence, and they are remarkably civil and industri- ous. There are no beggars to be seen here. Indeed, I have not yet seen any in tjie United States, which is a remarkable contrast to Europe, and bears testimony to the prosperity of the country. The civil government is vested in a legislature, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. The senators are chosen for four years, and the representatives annually, by the people. The executive authority is vested in a governor, who is also elected by the people, and holds his office for three years. The constitution declares, " That all men are born equally free and independent ; — that all pov^'cr is inherent in the people ; — that all men have a na- tural and indefeasible right to worship God according to the dic- tates of their own consciences, and no man can of right be com- pelled to attend, erect, or support any place of worship, or to maintain any ministry against his consent ; — that no human authori- ty can, in any case whatever, controul or interfere with the rights of conscience, and that no preference shall ever be given, by law, to any religious establishment, or modes of worships — that elec- \'r 134 TRAVELS IN tions shall be free and equal ; — that trial by jury shall be inviolate ; — that no law shall ever be made to restrain the liberty of the press ; —that the people shall be secure against all unwarrantable searches, and excessive bail shall not be required ; — that the legislature shall provide by law for the establishment of schools throughout the state, in such a manner as the poor may be taught gratis; — the Arts and sciences shall be promoted." CHAPTER XXVIL Delaware river, — Newcastle, ' . ' Tuesday, September 30. Having engaged a passage on board a packet-boat bound to Newcastle, 40 miles below this city, I went on board this rooming at 7 o'clock. The packet was called the Hope, and was one of a line of boats that run between Philadelphia and Newcastle ; from thence there is a communication by stages across the state of Delaware to the Chesapeak bay, where another line of boats, connected with this, proceeds to Baltimore : the whole called, appropriately, Land and Water Stages. The distance by this route is about 120 miles, and the fare, including board, is about three (Jollars. We set sail with a light wind, and almost right against us ; but the tide was in our favour, and we made tolerable progress till we reached six miles below ^Philadelphia, where we got aground on a place called the Horse-Shoe, wherp we lay nearly two hours. After getting off, we sailed about four miles, when we were obliged to come to anchor, the wind and tide being both against us. Hay- ing stopped here till three o'clock ip the afternoon, we weighed an- chor, and sailed eight or ten miles; but the wind was right ahead, and had increased too much to beat down, so we were obliged again to come to anchor. We once more set sail at 1 1 o'clock at night, and next morning at 5 o'clock, we reached Newcastle. The river at Philadelphia is about a mile broad, and it widens as you proceed downwards. At Newcastle it is two miles broad ; from thence it spreads out into the Delaware bay. The banks of the river are level, and covered with wood ; and the lands rise to a considerable height at a distance, affording in some places pretty good yiewir The only riyers of note that join the Delaware b?- DSLAWARS. 135 tween Philadelphia and Newcastle, are the Schuylkill and Bran- dywine creek. The post-road to Baltimore runs along the western bank, and pasf^s through Derby and Chester in Pennsylvania, and Wilmington in the state of Delaware; which last is a large town, and has a very pretty appearance when viewed from the river. On the east side, in Jersey, are Gloucester, Woodbury, and Swedesborough. Newcastle, where we stopped, is a small town containing about 200 houses, some of them handsome. It carries on a considerable trader principally in wheat. October 1st. Having taken an early breakfast, at a very good tavern, we set out in the stage for the head of Elk river. The road passes 13 miles through the state of Delaware, and 11 miles through Maryland ; and I found the whole distance a perfect Ievel» without a single object to excite attention, or gratify the imagina- tion. The road was very bad, the lands alternately sandy and marshy ; and the people had a sallow sickly colour : the whole in. dicating a country somewhat similar to the low lands of Carolina and Georgia. But I was informed that this was a sort of bye-road, which had been taken by this line of stages, and that it led through the very worst part of the country. * CHAPTER XXVIII. Delaware. - ' . ", '^ T J. HE state of Delawai% is situated between S8» 29' and 39o 47' north latitude, and l" 15' and l°56' east longitude. Its greatest length is 100 miles, and greatest breadth about 37; its area being about 2200 square miles, or about 1,408,000 acres. The face of a great part of the country is level, abounding with swamps and stagnant water ; but toward the northern part it is more elevated, and near its extremity there is a considerable chain of hills. There are numerous creeks In the state, but no rivers of conse* qucnce. The principal one is Braudywine creek, which falls into the Delaware at Wilmington, and on which there are numerous niills and manufactories. The state is well supplied with iron, but I did hear of any other mii'eralo //I . -1 r .'1. i 136 bELAWABE. The toil, in the southern part, is low and eanily, and entirely ft-ee of stones ; in the northern part, it is more diversified, and mixed with clay and loatii. Tlie climate partakes of the configuration of the country. The southern part has a humid atmosphere, often foggy and unwhole- some ; but is mild and temperate in winter. The northern part is agreeable and healthy. , The settlement of this state was coeval with that of Pennsyl- vania. It took an active part in the revolution, and sent two dele> gates to the first congress. The state constitution was adopted in 1 792. It now sends two senators and one representative to congress^ Delaw,' • ■■vV f #,V. ?* l-^ ^■■.i ^>W •^Ji. ir/ii ^j-n y.. ViJ ■*-i S.:t ■•■''""' :' '.'h ^ r ■-•' ■^y:., ■■■.4 ' * 1- . I Chesapeak bat/i — Baltimore, ff;>.- -, O N the first of October, 1 806, the day being clear and beautiful, we arrived at Elk river, a branch of Chesapeak bay, here about two miles broad. At one o'clock we stepped aboard the packet, and immediately set sail with a fair wind ; and enjoyed our situation very much after the dull scenery we had passed, iind the disagree- able jolting in the stage. Having sailed about two miles, we passed a pretty large creek, called Bohe river, and, at half past 3 o'clock, reached the Chesa^ peak bay. The view here was extensive and sublime. The bay is about six or seven miles broad, and its banks abound in rich sce- nery, while its waters were animated with a great variety of smalf vessels. To the north-west is the entrance of the fine river Susque- hannah, about a mile broad, and its banks swell out into hills of oonsiderable magnitude, which terminated our view ia that direc- 18 :i • in ■ thers my old friends and fellow-travellersy the Georgian major, and the facetious Englishman. They lodged at Bryden's tavern, a house nearly or altogether as much frequented as Evans'. Accompanied by my friend, I went to see the market-house, which is handsor»".ely fitted up, and well supplied with provisions i the prices, I was told, were reasonable, and nearly the same as at Philadelphia. From thence wc went to the codee-house ; on our way my friend pointed out, through a window, a very handsome lady, with her child, who he informed me were the wife and child of Jerome Bonaparte. The coffee-house is small, but commodious, And is well supplied with newspapers from every part of the United States. From the coffee-house we went to the library, which con- tains a very excellent collection of books, and is under good man- agement i the annual uibscriptioa is four dollars. The whole city « MAKYLAMO. 139 exhibited a very handsome appearance, and the country roundfa- bounds in villas, gardens, and well cultivated fields. In the afternoon I went to view the ship-yards, and saw a three- masted schooner launched. I was informed that a great many of these vessels are built at Baltimore, and that they are reckoned the fastest sailing vessels in the United States. I spent a very pleasant evening at Bi^den's, along with my friend, in company with the major and the Englishman. The major related a number of marvellous adventures he had met with in his journey, and concluded by informing us that he was to drive tandem all the way to Georgia, and was to be accompanied by an elegant lady, and her husband, whom he had engaged as a clerk. To accommodate his suite, he was to take a Jersey waggon, in which he politely offered me a passage; but I preferred travelling in my own way, and de- clined it. The Englishman informed me that he was to leave Bal- timore next morning by the stage for Cumberland, and was fromi thence to travel through the interior of the country to New Orleans, availing himself of land or water conveyance as he might find it most suitable and expeditious^ Baltimore is situated on a branch of the Patapsco river, called the Basin, 15 miles from the Chesapeak bay, and 160 miles from the Atlantic ocean. At the cojnmencement of the American war, it was but an inconsiderable village ; but such has been the rapidity .of its growth, that it is now the fourth commercial city in the United States: it contains upwards of 6000 dwalling-houses, and, by the census of 1800, the inhabitants amounted to 26,514, of whom 2843 were slaves : the houses are mostly built of brick, and many of them are elegant; the principal public buildings are 13 places of public worship, a court-house, a jail, three market-houses, a poor-house, the exchange, theatre, observatory, assembly-rooms, and library. The manufactures of Baltimore are considerable, and consist chief' ly of ships, cordage, iroif utensils, paper, saddlery, boots and shoes, hats, wool and cotton cards, &c. |n the adjoining country there are numerous mills, furnaces, and forges, which contribute much to the trade of the city. ' The state of Maryland, in point of foreign trade, ranks the fourth in the union, and as a very great portion of it centres in Baltimore, it must necessarily add greatly to Us wealth apd importance. A great portion of the export trade is flour, ^nuch of which is received from the st^te pf Pennsylvania, through the medium of the Sus- 140 MARYLAND. (jiiehannah river ; and the citizens have a brixk trade in importing and reshipping foreign articles, particularly West Indinn produce — rum, sugar, and co£Pee. A great portion of the imports are manu< factured goods from Britain, and, having the supply oi' an immense back csountry, this is an increasing trade. I learned too that many of the people in the western states give Baltimore the preference to Philadelphia; it is 50 miles nearer to Pittsburg than the latter city, which has a natural tendency to secure a preference ; and (he inha- bitants of Maryland, who seem to appreciate the importance of this trade, have acted with a laudable zeal in making good roads. Upon the whole, I was highly pleased with the commercial importance of Baltimore, and regretted that I did not fix upon this place for my commercial establishment, in place of Savannah. 1 he trade of Baltimore is facilitated by three banks, having all ample capitals. One is a branch o^the bank of the United States. The affairs of the city are ynder the management of a city council, cQnsisting of two branches, and a mayor. The police seems to be under good regulations, and the streets are kept very clean, which secures good health to the citizens. Education is pretty well attend- ed to ; and the citizens are said to be hospitable and industrious i the men rank as correct men of business ; and as to the ladies, I saw but little of them, and can only say, in the language of the quaker, «« ihey look well." - CHAPTER XXX. 5 ' • . ^ .:,.J j^ . Maryland. ',■• This state is situated between 38** and 39° 43' north latitude, and 2* east and 2° SO' west longitude. Its extreme length from east to west is 212 miles, and its extreme breadth from north to south is 123 ; but it is very irregular. It is computed to contain about 14,000 square miles, or 8,960,000 acres, of which about one fourth is water. The face of the country is remarkably variegated. It is bound- ed on the south-west by the river Potomac to its extremity ; and the fine Chesapeak Bay, with its numerous waters, passes through the middle of it. On the east side it presents a coast of about 35 miles to the Adantic ocean: the eastern shore is low, level and sandy. The country continues to the by a very gentle ascent, but is gene- .^J*> 1 N| MARYLAND, ;S|||^ rally Icy^l t& Baltimore ; it then swelli out into a hilly country, and the western part stretches across the mountains. The Chcsapeak Bay has already been noticed; but it merits a more particular description, from its vast importance to this state, and indeed to the United States, generally. This bay is formed by the outlet of the Susquehanngh. River, where it receives French Creek, and a number of smaller streams ; it is there about 7 miles broad, and so continues to near the branch that leads up to Baltimore ; from thence it assumes various breadths, from 10 to 15 miles, dur- ing a course downAvards of (^bout 70 miles, to near the Potomac River : from thence it stretches out to 25 or SO miles, durinj[; a pas- sage of 90 miles more, and finally passes into the Atlantic Ocean by an outlet of 20 miles broad : the whole course, from north to soath, is nearly 200 miles, and it receives in its passage the whole waters of this state, nearly the vhole of the eastern part of Virginia, a great part uf those o( Pennsylvania, and so^ne of Delaware ; exhi- biting, upon the whole, a greater confluence of waters than is to be seen in tlie United States, or almost in the world. The principal rivers in Maryland that run into this bay, besides the Susquehan- nah and Potomac, are the Patapsco and Patuxent, on the west side ; and on the east side. Elk River, Sassafras, Chester, Choptank, Nan- ticoke, and Pocomoke, the last of which issues out of Cyprus Swamp. There are numerous islands in the bay, and the waters a- bound with various kinds offish : the state is generally well watered, and abounds vjith mill-seats. Maryland is well supplied with iron ore, and some coal has been found ; but not in sufficient quantity to make it an object of im- portance. Tlie soil is very various, and a great portion of it is but poor: to- wards the eastern shore it is low and sandy, abounding with swamps in the interior there are many fertile spots ; but the greater part of the land is poor until you pass the first ridge of nfountains, where there is a fertile valley of 12 or 14 miles broad : from thence the soil is pretty much assimilated to the mountainous district of Pennsylvania. The climate is as various as the soil: the eastern part is pretty similar to Delaware, indicated by a pale sickly, colour in the inhar bitants. It improves as the land gets hilly, and among the moun- tains is delightful, the summers being cooled by fine breezes, while the winters are. tempered by a southern latitude, which renders th«a^ much more mild than to the northward. ^ i , * A 1 , A ■ 142 MABYLANO. ■J The country was first settled by Ix)rd Baltimore, a Roman Catholic, who evinced the liberality of his religious principles, by providing for the free exercise of all other religious opinions in the colony. At the commencement of the revolutionary war, the state was declared to belong to the citizens, who delegated five of their number to the first congress. The state constitution was framed in 1776, which, with a few trifling amendments, still continues. The state now sends two senators and nine representatives to cono gress. The state is divided into 19 counties, and contained, by the «eensus of 1800, 241,885 white persons, and 107,707 slaves; be- ing, in the whole, about %S persons to the square milo of ter- ritory ; but, when the proportion of water is subtracted, it makes the amount to each square mile nearly 35. National improvements have kept pace with the industry and perseverance of the inhabitants, and the towns, cultivated farms, roads, and bridges are all so many proofs that the citizens of Maryland are possessed, in a high degree, of these qualifica- tions. ' ■ ■'^ ■ ■ ' ■' ■': • -i ■■» ''^'•'' > Of the cities, Baltimore, already described, is the chief. An- KAPOLis is the seat of government, and is situated en the Severn River, about two miles fi*om its entrance into Chesapeak Buy. The houses, built of brick, are about 300 in number, and the city contains about 2500 inhabitants. The State-House is one of the most superb buildings in the United States. There is a college, a theatre, and two places of public worship in the city. It has a harbour, though no great commerce; but, being a plea- sant place, it is the residence of a great many wealthy people. Fre- derick-tonon is a large inland town, containing a court-house, jail, academy, market-house, and seven places of public worship. The inhabitants are about 6000 ; and the town has considerable manu- factures and inland trade. Hagers-tawn, situated beyond the first range of mountains, contains 2100 inhabitants. Besides these, there are a great number of smaller towns and villages, contaiur ing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants. A great number of the farn^ houses are built of wood, and they are not so substantial, nor so el^ant, in general, as those in Pennsylvania. This is the first state in which there is a material difference of agriculture from the northern states; still, however, the staple erop is wheat { bq,t they ra^ a considerable quantity of tobacco, ►rt -—x^_»._ _, — ,_^ \ ' oisTnicT or Columbia. US jroi R Roman principles, by opinions in the war, the state cd five of their ion was framed itill continues, itatives to con^ tained, by the ^07 slaves; be- B mile of ter- acted) it makes I the industry wns, cultivated hat the citizens these qualifica- the chief. An- l on the Severn Chesapeak Bay. imber, npd the e-House is one es. There is a jp in the city, t, being a plea- y people. Fre- ourt-house, jail, ; worship. The siderable manu- beyond the first Besides these, illages, containr )er of the farnv* stantial, nor so and some cotton, though none of the latter for exportation. All the other grains, grasses, and roots, that grow in the northern states, flourish here ; and the sweet potatoe, a root belonging to a warm climate, comes to considerable maturity. The principal manufactures of the state have been noticed in the account of Baltimore; and so has the foreign trade. The exports from the state, in 1805, amounted to 10,859,480 dollars^ of which 7,450,937 dollars wju foreign produce ; and the imports arc about equal in value, of whieh a great part consists in dry goods from Britain. There are considerable funds appropriated to the support of education. There are five colleges, and a number of very respect- able academies in the state, and common schools in every county* The civil government is vested in a governor, senate, and house of delegates, all chosen annually. The qualification to vote for delegates is a freehold of 50 acres of land, or property to th« value of jf.SO currency. The principles of government are similar to those of Pennsylvania* * > ■%■ CHAPTER XXXL Patapsco Creeky — fVashingtoti^ OKt^c thii^d of October, at eight o'clock, I set out in thd mail stage for Washington. We travelled eight miles through a hilly, well-wooded, and healthy country, and arrived at Patapsco creek, 25 miles above its junction with the Chesapeak. It is navigable thus far, but the navigation is obstructed by the falls half a mile above. We travelled eight miles more through a similar country, when we stopped to change horses. The land seemed but poor, and little cultitated ; the principal woods were oak, hickory, and pine. The air was sweet and pure, and having intelligent com- pany in the stage, the travelling was very agreeable. At 19 miles from Patapsco creek, we stopped again to change horses, on an elevated situation, where we had a fine view of the adjacent coui- try ; and, in one direction, not less than 20 miles distant. From thence we travelled 1 6 miles, through a country rough^*^ and uneven, and by a road no less so, when we came to an agree* able plain ; and two miles further we passed through a little scat*' r. f f, « i ' if, I I « ] ♦I W, 4 :t «-**«* 144 TRAVnS IN Tllte ir tering village called Bladensburg, iiituuted on the east branch of the Potomac ; from thence we travttlletl nine niileii more to Wash- ington city; the whole distance 'being 44 mile8. The country ap- peared generally poor and sterile ; and the seaiion had been un- commonly dry, in connequencc of which all the grass and herbs Were parched, and the lace of nature every where exhibited a scorched-like appearance. I noticed, however, several thriving fields of tobacco* . Being told that we were eiitering Washington city, I continu* cd looking for the houses for some little time; but seeing none, I thought I had misunderstood the gentleman who made the remark, and turning round for an explanation, he told me, laugh- ing, that we were almost in the very middle of it, and asked if I did not see the Capitol a little before us. I did, indeed, see u stately edifice, but no other appearance of a city. Soon niter this, the stage stopped, at Steele's hotel, nearly opposite the Capitol, where I took lodgings. On walking out to the Capitol Hill, I had a fine view of the whole scite of the city, which is very large, extending a mile and a half in each direction north and south of the Capitol ; to the east two miles ; and to the west nearly two miles and a half. The buildings, though numerous, being scattered over this large space, give it more the appearance of a thickly-settled country than a city ; and, very few of them extending in the direction we came, we had travelled a good way into the city before I saw it. Tlie view from the Capitol is really superb. The whole coun* try round is handsomely settled, with elegant houses ; and the view is terminated to the west, south-west, and north-west, with highlands. To the south, is the river Potomac, with Alexandria pleasantly situated on its banks. The navy-yard and shipping, and the barracks, are seen to the south-east and eastward; and to the west is the president's house, a stately edifice, about a mile distant ; beyond which, handsomely situated on the brow of tlie hill, is Georgetown. The Pennsylvania avenue runs between the Capitol and the president's house, and being ornamented with trees and walks on each side, tbrms a very pleasing prospect. It U ill this direction that the city is making greatest progress. The evening was clear and pleasant, and the reflection of the setting sun added lustre to the scenery. ,, , ,. ; '^■5 MtTSICT OP COLOMBIA. 145 I r CHAPTER XXXII. Waihingtoni—Treamryi'-Capitol^ — Barrach,— Navy-Yard, Georgetown, Washington, October 4. Having been furnished with a letter ot introduction to a gentleman in the treasury office, I called thi)i morning, when I was politely received, and got every information calculated to facilitate my inquiries. My friend car- ried me to the different departments in the office, which arc all bpacious and commodious ; but this being a time at which there was no public business, there was little to be seen. From thence we went to the post-office, which has no great appearance exterior- ly, but it seems to be very well arranged in the interior to answer the purpose for which it was designed. I was informed that both these departments were under excellent management I was then introduced by my friend to the gentleman who hat the charge of the Capitol, and went with him to see that edifice. It is an elegant building of hewn stone,, and consbts of two wings and a portico in the middle. The north wing was quite complete, anil the whole legislative business was transacted in it for the time. The senate-chamber occupies the ground floor, and is an elegant apartment, with handsome furniture; it is adorned with full length portraits of the late unfortunate king and queen of France. The house of representatives meet in an apartment up stairs, which, I was told, was ultimately destined for the library room. It was fitted up with commodious seats for the nl6mbers, but no way or- namented. The only things in it which merited notice, were two very elegant views of the falls of Niagara. From thence we went to the soutli wing, where a great many workmen were em- ployed ; and I was told they were making great exertions to have it finished in time for the next congress. The apartment for the house of representatives is a large oval room, occupying nearly the whole building up stairs, and will, when finished, be very superb. From the Capitol I went to see the barracks. They are large and convenient, and were garrisoned by 250 men, being a portion of the United States' army. I was informed that they were found in every thing, besides their pay of si:: dollars per month. This, however, docs not bear a proportion to the wages of the other 19 ■•*■*. M ■1 • 146 THAVELS IN TUB / 1 i VK":,.- classes in America, who, on nn average, may be found in every thing, and have twelve dollars per month. The conse- quence is, that the few military that are wanted will probably not be, generally speaking, equal in respectability to the other ci- tizens. It is probable they will be composed of indolent men, who are not willing to labour, or of vicious mer., who have bpcome ob- noxious to society. This should, if possible, be guarded against. No set of men sliould be more respectable than those to whom are committed the national defence ; and measures should be devised to place them on a footing with their brethren in regard both to in- dustry and pecuniary means. Would it not be wise in a nation to plan works of public utility, and^^ploy a portion of the time of the military in executing them ? This would not only improve the country, but would keep the men in active employment, and afford them wages eq?}al to the other classes in society. From the Barracks I went to the Navy-Yard, where I saw eight or ten frigates, the most of them undergoing repair. I went on board one, which, I was informed, was the Chesapeak. She car* ries 4-4 guns, and appears very large for that metal. Having seen the most material places in Washington, I procured a horse, and took a ride to Georgetown, three miles distant from the Capitol. The view is very elegant the whole way, and, in the vicinity of Georgetown, there is a romantic chasm, in which there is a pretty large stream of water, called Koek Creek. Having rjassed this by a wooden bridge, I entered the town, which I found regularly laid out, and compactly built. It stands on the side of a hill, having a considerable descent to the river, of which it has a fine view. It contains about 000 houses, and 4,500 inhabitants. Most of the houses are built of brick, and some of them are elegant. The public buildings are five places for public worship, an academy, and a bank. It is a place of considerable trade, which, in consequence of the rapid settlement of the back country, is yearly increasing. The River Potomac, which is nearly a mile broad opposite Watthington, contracts here to less than a fourth of that distance ; and it is proposed to build a bridge across it, which, ilT executed, will add much to the convenience of this part of the country. This river merits particular notice, and I cannot any where Ir- troduce it with more propriety than here. The Potcmuc rises from a spring on the nortL-west side of the fv DI&TRICT or COLUMBIA. 14T found in every The conse- [ will probably o the other ci- olent men, who ave bpcome ob- uarded against, se to whom are Id be devised to ird both to in- e in a nation to of the time of Illy improve the lent, and afibrd here I saw eight lir.. I went on peak. She car- I. gton, I procured les distant from iray, and, in the in which there Zveek. Having which I found on the side of of which it has 500 inhabitants. lem are elegant. ip, an academy, , in consequence increasing. broad opposite )f that distance ; cb, it" executed, le country. )t any where ifl- west side of the Allegany mountairs, and runs a north-east course of about 60 miles, to Cumberland, where it maizes a bend, and, by a serp^i- tine course, nearly south-east, runs about 18 miles, to where it receives the south-west branch. It then turns to the north-east, and runs a very serpentine course of about 45 miles, in which it receives a considerable number of tributary streams, to Hancock's Town. Here it makes another bend to the south-east, and 9 miles from thence it receives the waters of Licking Creek, and paases the North Mountain into a fine limestone valley, which it waters by a very winding course, and principally a south-east direction, for about 45 miles. In this valley it receives a considerable number of small streams, particularly the Conecocheague Creek, at Williams- port in the middle of the valley ; and at the ^tremity it receives the waters of the Shenandoah &om Virginia ; and, by a singularly grand passage, issues through the Blue Mountain. It thence passes on, nearly in the same direction, about 30 miles, where, by two different falls, in the course of 8 or 10 miles, it descends above 140 feet to the level of tide- water, which it meets at Georgetown. The river now increases to about a mile broad, and, passing Alexandria and Mount Vernon, it runs a course a little to the west of south, to 35 miles below Alexandria, where it makes a great bend of nearly 15 miles to the north-east. It now gradually increases in breadth, and running 50 miles below this bend, flowfii into the Chesapeak Bay, by a passage about 10 miles broad. This is one of the most important of the Atlantic rivers, and, from its intersecting the country in a, central situation, has excited great attention in the United States ; more e&pecially since VS'^ashington was fixed on as the seat of the general government. It is navigable for ships of any burden to Alexandna, a distance of about 100 miles, and about 180 from the Capes of Virginia ; and from thence for vessels of considerable burden to Georgetown, at the head of tide-water. There is a lock navigation, constructed at great labour and expcnce, round the first falls. Considerable im- provements have been made further up the river ; and it is pre- sumed, that, by following up these iniprovements, the river can be made fit for boat navigation to Cumberland, 180 miles above tide-water, the elevation being 700 feet above the level of the sea, Conn«?ctcd with this important subject, I may here notice, that ft road has been laid out, by order of congress, from Cumberland, across tlie mountains, to Brownsville on tlie Monoiigahcla, a dis- \ h •4'', , I I «o '1 11 " y* 'I'^W^PW^^'tli MO us TRAVELS IN THK I' % i ^♦r tance of 72 miles, on which the angle of ascent is no where greater than 5 degrees. From Brownsville there is an easy navi> gation to Pitt&burg on the Ohio. I returned from Georgetown to dine with ihy friend ; and after dinner was introduced to a number of gentlemen of Washington, who vied with one another in showing me attention, and in giv« ing me information. Among others, I saw Mr. Smith, the editor of the National In- telligencer, a shrewd, sensible man ; and, having a desire to be correctly informed of the measures of the general government du- ring my stay in America, I ordered a copy of that paper to be sent to Savannah. I had frequently seen and admired it for its Uberality of sentiment, and freedom from personal abuse ; and, from the access which tlie editor must necessarily have to the best sources of information, I was satisfied that the intelligence con- tained in it might be generally relied on. '. .■ > - In the evening I was informed by my friends, that the presi? dent had unexpectedly arrived in the city, and I was advised to ^l upon him before I left it. I wished very much to have an opportunity of seeing the president ; but I was informed at New York and Philadelphia, that he would not be at Washington until late in November, in consequence of which, I was not furnish- ed with a letter of introduction. But they informed me, that it was altogether unnecessary ; Mr. Jefferson was a man of no ceremony, and I could introduce myself as a stranger, and would be attended to as sudi, and would see more of the president than I could in any other way. This advice I resolved to follow, and the result of it »hall ])fi coinmunicated in the next chapter. it CHAPTER XXXIII. Interview with Mr. Jefferson. . ?. Washington, October 5. in pursuance of the recom- mendation of my friends, I set out, this morning, at 8 o'clock, for the purpose of waiting on Mr. Jefferson. On my arrival at ^e president's house, I delivered my address to a servant, who in a few minutes returned with an answer, that Mr. Jefferson wouM be with me presently, and showed me into an elegant apartment. t is no where s an easy navi« [end ; and after ►f Washington, m, and in giv- \ie National In- a desire to be government du- at paper to be imired it for its aal abuse; and, liave to the best titelligence con? , that thepresir [ was advised to uch to have an iformed at New Washington until kvas not furnish- dme, that it was of no ceremony, ould be attended than I could in ult ofitjhall \?,t of the recom- g, at 8 o'clock, n my arrival at servant, who in . Jefferson would iegant apartment. DISTRICT or COLUMBIA. 149 Mr. Jefferson soon entered by an inner door, and requesting me to be seated, sat down himself; and immediately, and very frank« ly, entered into conversation, by asking where I had landed, and how long I had been in the country. Having informed him, he remarked that I would probably be travelling to the northward; I replied that I had been to the north, and was now travelling to the southward. "And how do you like New York?" "Very much," said I ; "it is one of the finest sea-ports I have seen, and, J presume, will always continue to be the first commercial city in the United States." He observed that he found that idea gene« rally entertained by strangers ; that New York was a very fine situation, and would unquestionably continue always to be a great conimercial city : but it appeared to him that Norfolk would pro* bably, in process of time, be the greatest sea-port in the United States,' New Orleans perhaps excepted. He pointed out the circum- stances of the vast confluence of waters, that constituted the outlet of ^he Chesapeak bay, on which Norfolk is situated, and remarked that these rivers were as yet but partially settled ; but they were rapidly ^ttling up* and, when the population was full, the quantity of sur- plus produce would be immense, and Norfolk would probably be- come the greatest de> Vi,ia the United States, except New Orleans. The conversatipn i\ • turned upon the climate and season ; on which the president . . i^rjced) that the country had this summer been remarl^ably healthy; that no case of epidemical sickness had come to his knowledge, some few of biUous fever and fever and ague excepted, at the foot of the mountains on James' river, not far from where he lived ; and which country was never known to experience any cases of the kind before. As this appeared singu- lar, I inquired whether there was any way of accounting for it* He replied, that the way he accounted for it was this : ^^ In ordi- nary seasons, there is a sufiiciency of water to keep the rivers in a state of circulation, and no more ; but this season there has been a long and $eyere drought, which^ in many places, has dried them up. The water has stagnated in pools, and sends out a putrid efiluvia to some distance ; which, being lighter than the atmosphere, ascendi even some little way up the mountains, and reaches the abodes of those who thought themselves heretofore free from attack." I was struck with the force of this remark, and applied it to a cir- cumstance that had come under my observation at Washington. The Capitol Hill is elevated above the river upwards of 70 feet. ■V ti 4* Vt. > IF % I ;:■../■ ■•"mm^'' P^-^..i*r i 5 .1 I \ 150 TRAVELS IN THE Ipetween this and the river there is a low meadow, about a mite broad, abounding with swamps and shrubbery. In the autumn these ^wamps send out an effluvia, which often affects the health of those who live on the hill. I noticed this circumstance, and the presid^t remarked, that it was exactly in point. He said he bad frequently observed from his windows, in the morning, the Vt^ur to rise, and it seemed to have sufficient buoyancy to carry it to the top of the hill, and no further ; there it settled, and the inhabitants coming out of their warm rooms, breathed this cold contaminated vapour, which brought on agues and other com- plaints. He said he had frequently pointed out this to the people, and urged them to drain the swamp, but it was still neglected, although diey had, besides sufTeringin their health, probably expend- ed more in doctor's bills than it would have cost. " But, indeed," he continued, " mankind are exceedingly slow in adopting resolu- tions to prevent disease, and it is very difficult to convince them where tjiey originate ; particularly when the reasoning applied k the resi^lt of philosophical deduction." The transition from this subject to that of the yellow fever was natural, and I introduced it by noticing Paine's essay on the sub- ject. The preiudent observed, that it was one of the most sensible performances on that disease, that had come under his observation. The remarks were quite philosophical, and, not being calculated to (excite any party feeling, they might have a very useful tendency.* He then made a few remarks on the nature of the yellow fever itself. He observed, that it evidently arose from breathing im- pure air, and impure air mviy be either generated in ^he country or imported. A case had come under his observation where it was imported. A vessel arrived at Norfolk, and the air in her hold was so pestilential, that every person who went into it was affected, and some of them died; but, on the discovery being made, the vessel was purified, and the fever did not spread. This was a local circumstance, he observed, and there may be many others, which are pernicious as far as th^ go, and care should be ; taken to prevent them. But a ship can never import a sufficient * I bad seen this essay of Mr. Poinc in the newspapci's, and I made menlion of it in the account of my conversation vkh him, page 65. I hftvc since procured a copy of the essay ; and as it is the mast inteUigible account that 1 have yet seen of the ycl- - low fever, and » entirely ckar of party prejudices, I have in«;rted it at Pull lcngtl( ,|a the Appendix^ . lb. I, . I, X about a mile n the autumn cts the health umstance, and ;. He said he morning, the yancy to carry settled, and the jathed this cold ind other com- 13 to the people, still neglected, robably expend- « But, indeed," adopting resolu- » convince them masoning applied yellow fever was Bssay on the sub- the most sensible r his observation, eing calculated to |useful tendency.* the yellow fever breathing im- in ^he country srvation where it id the air in her Iwent into it was DISTRICT OP COLtJMBlA* ' 151 quantity of impure air to pollute a whole city, if that cky be ofther* wise liealthy, and therefore the origin of the yeUow fever, on an extended scale, must be sought for in an impure air, generated from filth collected in and about great cities; and it was very expedient that this view of the subject should be enforced, in or- der to induce mankind to attend to one of the most important concerns in life — cleanliness. I took notice of the bad state of the road between Boltimora and Washington, and expressed my surprise that it should remain in this state, so near the capital of the United iStates* The president observed, that the remM}\'al of the seat of go^i^ern* ment was a recent measure, and the country was so extensive^ that it would neceseiarily be a considerable time before good road* could be made in all directions, but as it was a most important subject, it would be attended to as fast as circumstances would permit ; and the road to Baltimore, being the great thoroughfare to the northern states, would probably be one of the first that would undergo a thorough repair. He then informed me, that both this subject and that of internal navigation by «anak, were under consideration at the present time, upon a very extended scale, and probably a report would soon be published relative to them ; and he had little doubt, but that in less than 20 years turnpike roads would be general throughout the country; and a chain of canals would probably be cut, which would complete an inland navigation from Massachusetts to Georgia ; and another to connect the eastern with the western waters. -' I remarked that these would be most important improvements, and would greatly facilitate internal intercourse ; and as to manu- factures, I presumed it would long continue to be the policy of the country to import them. He replied, that this, like other branches, would of course find its level, and would depend upon the genius of the people; but it was astonishing, the progress that had been made in manufactures of late years. It would hardly be believ- ed, he said, by strangers, but he had it on the best authority, that the manufactures of Philadelphia were greater in value annually, than were those of Birmingham 20 years ago ; and he had no doubt but that manufactures of articles of the first necessity would increase until Jthcy became quite general through the country. As the non-importation act was then in dependence, I was na^ turally anxious to ascertain, whether matters Were likely to be ■*Ii ]* H r .^ i-j — -»-^ wpiW»**r ]S3 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. adjusted with Britain, and, as modestly as possible, endeavoured to turn the conversation that way. I was urged to this by two considerations. I was not sure but that part of our fall importa- tion would come under the operation of the non-importation act, if it took place; and being fully satisfied of the friendly disposition of the whig party in Britain towards America, I would gladly have availed myself of an opportunity of expressing that opinion to the president. But on this subject Mr. Jefferson was, of course, reserved ; though, from the few observations he made, I concluded that matters would ultimately be amicably adjusted. I was highly gratified by the expression of his opinion, on the character of my great favourite statesman Mr. Fox. Accounts had that morning reached Washington, that Mr. Fox was in the last stage of his illness. — I noticed the circumstance. " Poor man," said Mr. Jefierson, "I feai by this time he is no more, and his loss will be severely felt by his country : he is a man of the most liberal and enlightened policy — a friendto his country, and to the human race." A gentleman then called upon him, I believe general Eaton, and I took my leave, highly pleased with the affability, intelligence and good sense of the President of America. •ir::- •;r-*:;. ;"| or; •- '■ "''■V CHAPTER XXXIV. District of Columbia* JLHIS district is 10 miles square, and was ceded to the United States by the states of Virginia and Maryland ; and in the year 1800 became the seat of the general government. It is in north latitude 38<> 54', and the American geographers have adopted it as the first meridian of longitude, which I have followed in my descriptions of the states, so as the reader may know at a glance how far they are removed from the capital. The face of the couii' try around it has been noticed : the soil appears poor and sandy: the climate is the same as the middle district of Maryland, and, judging from the countenances of the people, I should infer it is not very healthy : it is high and dry ; but the whole flat country 'of Vir- ginia and North Carolina lies to the south of it; and, when a south wind blows, it must waft a great deal of marsh effluvia along with it» of which the people in this distiict will receive a full suare. The district fici on both sides of the Potomac river, and is dh >-^"«i--*«f.Jt^-. -ta>^- .^i^-^^' ''TXi '».' 1.. DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA* 153 vided into two counties, one on each side. The population, when I was there^ was supposed to be about 17,000, including those of Georgetown and Alexandria ; and it was rapidly encreasing. The general improvements in this district have been already no- ticed. Besides the settlements scattered over the district, it con- tains two principal towns, and the capital ; of these, Georgetown has been already oientioned ; and as I shall huve occasion to notice Alexandria in a subsequent article, it only remains here to give a general account of the fedetal city. WASHINGTON Is situated in the centre of the district of Columbia, and is bound- ed on the south-east by the eastern branch of the Potomac river, to the south-west by the western branch, to the north-west by Rook creek, and to the north-east by the open country. Its extreme length from north-west to south-east is a little more than four miles and a half, and its medium breadth from north-east to south-west about two miles and a half, being nearly the dimensions of the city of London, including Westminster and South wark. An elegant plan of this city has been published, on which I count- ed 37 squares, 17 grand avenues, named after the different states, and 103 streets crossing one another at right angles, and running the whole length and breadth of the city. On this plan I find the following observations : - ^ '■ ' ^ *' The grand avenues, and such streets as lead immediately to public places, are from 130 to 160 feet wide, and may be conveni- ently divided into foot-ways, walks of trees, and a carriage-way. The other streets are from 90 to 110 feet wide. " In order to execute this plan, Mr. Ellicott drew a true meri- dional line by celestial observation, which passes through the area intended for the capitol ; this line he crossed by another, due east and west, which passes through the same area : these lines were ac- curately measured, and made the basis on which the whole plan was executed. He ran all the lines by a transit instrument, and deter- mined the acute angles by actual measurement, and left nothing to the uncertainty of the compass. " The positions for the different edifices, and for the several squares or areas of diderent shapes, as they are laid down, were first determined on the most advantageous ground, commanding the most extensive prospects, and the better susceptible of such improve. ments as either use or ornament may hereafter call for. 20 111 ■-. I» .— *fi,>»*---» « •. ,;»»^-4*»t. 154 TRAVELS IN THE M I >v *' Lines or avenues of direct communication have been devised to connect the separate and most distant objects with the principal, and to preserve through the whole a reciprocity of sight at the same time. Attention has been paid to the passing of these leading ave- nues over the mobt favourable ground for prospect and convenience* " North and south lines, intersected by others running due east and west, make the distribution of the city into streets, squares, &c.; and those lines have been so combined as to meet at certain given points with those divergent avenues, so as to form on the spaces first determined, the different squares or areas." There are three creeks delineated on the plan, above the city, on llvhich I find the following observations : i " The perpendicular height of Tiber creek above the level of the tide in said creek, is 236 feet, 7 inches : the water of this creek may be conveyed on the high ground where the Capitol stands, and af- ter watering that part of the city, may be destined to other useful purposes. The perpendicular height of the ground where the Ca- pitol is to stand is above the tide of Tiber creek TS.feet. " The perpendicular height of the west branch above the tide in Tiber creek, is 1 15 feet, 7 inches. " The water of Reedy creek, and that of the Tiber, may be con- veyed to the president's house." A most elegant plan indeed, and a very animated description. It only wants 40^000 elegant buildings, and a corresponding popu- lation, to constitute the American capital one of the handsomest ci- ties ia the world ! However, it is to be recollected that every thirg must have a beginnhig; and the time was when London was not The city now probably contains about 700 houses, and 5000 in- habitants: the buildings are all of brick, three stories high, and a- greeable to a given plan ; there are many scattering huts and wood- en buildings *'iroughout the district, but they' are only temporary. The greater part of the public buildings have been already noticed: there arc, besides, two or three churches, three market-houses, ami a jail. The markets arc tolerably well supplied with provisions; but every article is dear ; the prices may be reckoned one-third higher than at Philadelphia, — a circumstance that will probably o- peratc against the progress of population. The principal manufactures are tliose calculated for domestic con- sumption, boots, shoes, hats, &c. There is a considerable retail trade ; but very little of any other : the shipping trade is carried on at Alexandria, and the inland trade at Georgetown, * ' '" h^ bove the city, on ber, may be con- OISTRICT OP COLUMBIA. 155 The inhabitants are a collection from all quarters of the union, and there are many foreigners among them : they are reputed to be or- derly and correct in their morals, and have bent their attention very much to the subjects of education and internal improvement. The district of Columbia, west of the Potomac, is subject to the laws of Virginia, and east of the river to tlK)sc of Maryland ; but the whole is under the special direction of the government of the United States, and the internal police is managed by a corporation, of which the president of the United States appoints the mayor : the other members arc elected by the people. There is a circuit court of the United States within the district, consisting of a chief judge and two assistants, and they hold four sessions annually. A few general remarks shall close tliis chapter, and my account of the capital of the United States. Having, in the course of my travels, heard a great many con- flicting opinions about British influence and French influence, and /ederalism and democracy, and the supposed enmity of the Ameri- can government to Britain and British trade, and of a partiality for the French and Bonaparte, I determined to take no share in the argument, but to hear all the evidence on both sides, as it came in my way, and to judge for myself. ' - " ' . The result of this judgment I shall now communicate. I was satisfied, from all that I had seen and heard, that there is bonajide British influence in the country, of a very powerful nature, great in extent, and arising from very obvious causes : the princi- pal of these are the identity of language, the similitude of manners and habits, and the extensive commerce between the United States and Britain. To prove the influence arising from these, it is un- necessary to go beyond my own person. I landed in America a stranger : I travelled through the country, associating every where freely with the people : I was uniformly received as a friend. I waited on the chief magistrate of America, altogether in an unpre- meditated manner : I sent up my address as " a native of Britain :" his conduct and conversation have been faithfully recorded in the preceding chapter, and the public can judge of it. Did it look like prejudice against Britain, or British people ? — I say no. In regard to French influence, it stands upon a footing exactly the reverse : the natives of Fiance have a diflercnt language, and different manners and habits : when they arrive in this country ■v.; ,1 ■ nmm f j. ii nw i^, ,*-'«ft<*wn(!(r's 156 TRAVELS IN they have a language to learn ; they nercr can earn to speak it with the fluency of a native ; and they have few ideas in common^ so that there really is }ittle whereon to ground a free interchange of sentiments and of friendship. Accordingly it is found that the French natives in the country are generally a quiet peaceable peo- ple, who associate mostly among themselves, and pay little or no at- tention to politics, or to public concerns. I cannot illustrate this subject bcttet* than by a quotation from M. Talleyrand. He had travelled extensively in the United states, and had paid very close attention to the manners of the people. He closes a series of obser- vations with this sentiment : " In all my travels through the coun- try, I never saw an Englishman that was not treated as a native; I never saw a Frenchman that was not treated as a stranf^er." Passing over mere party-bickerings, which 1 leave with a great deal of pleasure to the newspapers, I shall here remark that it ap- peared to me there was every disposition to have an amicable ad- justment of all differences with Britain, and to cultivate a friendly intercourse to every extent that the natives mutually wished, or that their wonts might call for ; and as to partiality for Bonaparte and the French, it was my sincere opinion, very deliberately form- ed, that there was none. Hence, my opinion was strengthened as to the probability of a good understanding between the two coun- tries; for I was satisfied of the friendly disposition of the British ministry. I knew they did not all view America in the same light, and I dreaded the loss of Mr. Fox ; but while a Grenville, an Ers- kine, and a Grey remained in the cabinet, I was convinced that the valuable trade to the United States would not be sacrificed to a crooked policy, nor to gratify the avarice of a number of unprinci- pled speculators. I saw, indeed, a black cloud in the rere. A most powerful tory faction pressed upon the national councils, and al- most brow-beat virtue out of countenance ; and this faction was strong in the good-will of the court. But, to counterbalance this, the heir apparent, the prince of Wales, was with the whig party, and I hoped for the best. In the afternoon I took my departure, in a ferry-boat, for Alex- andria, which I reached at 6 o'clock. Alexandria is situated on the west bank of the Potomac, in the south-east corner of the district of Columbia. It is laid out on the plan of Philadelphia, the streets crossing one another at right angles, and they are broad and airy.' It contained, by the census VIRGINIA Id? of 1800, 4096 free inhabitants, and 875 slave*; the population has since greatly increased. The public buildings are a court-house and jail, a bank, and an episcopal church. I observed consider- able shipping in the river, and learned that the inhabitants have a pretty extensive trade, principally in flour and tobacco. The weather, during my stay in the district of Columbia, was clear and very warm ; and from the observations I made, I was satisfied that there must be a material difference of climate between this place and Philadelphia, the great change happening some- where near the Patapsco river, agreeably to the opinion of Volney. On applying at the mail stage-office, I found there were 10 places engaged, so that it was with some difficulty I could get ac- commodated ; but they agreed to squeeze me amongst the number ; and I retired to bed, resolved to sleep as fast as possible, with a view of getting up at 4 o'clock in the morning, the hour at which, I was told the stage would set out. ' ,-. -. , , , *. s ^4 L i ' CHAPTER XXXV. Fredericksburgt — Bichmondy — Petersburg. Monday, October eth, 1806, at half past 4 o'clock, I toolc my place in the stage, and we left Alexandria a little before 5. We travelled by a pretty rough road, 17 miles, to Occoquhan creek, where we stopped for breakfast. Part of our journey being before day-light, I could only remark that the country appeared uneven, and the soil tolerably good. After breakfast, the company began to get a little acquainted with each other, and to exchange sentiments. I mentioned before that we were 11 in number, and it will show the nature of travel- liiig in this country, to mention the places of destination. Three of the passengers were going to Richmond, in Virginia, 126 miles distant; two were going to Columbia, in south Carolina, distant 51 1 miles ; one to Augusta, in Georgia, distant 596 miles ; one to Fayetteville, North Carolina, 351 miles; three to different places in the interior of the country ; and I was going to Savannah, in Georgia, distant 653 miles. As we constituted a little republic, and several of us were to be many days together, we proceeded to elect office-bearers. The gentleman from Fayetteville was chosen president ; the company i I: 158 TRAVILS IN I I \ conferred on me the honour of being vicc-prcsidcilt : and tlius or- ganized we proceeded to the " order of the day." Our president, who was called captain, by wHich title I shall hercuflcr denominate him, was an excellent travelling companion. He sung a good song ; told a good story ; and was, withal, very facetious, and abounded in mirth, humour, and jollity. He had not long taken the chair, when, with the permission of the company, he sung a humorous song, which put us all in good spirits. He then proposed that each man in his turn should, when called on by the president, sing a song, tell a sto ry, or pay five cents ; which being unanimously agreed to, was immediately car- ried into execution, and called forth a wonderful degree of merri- ment and good humour. I found myself a little at a loss, as I did not wish to part with my cents, and I had nothing but Scots stories and Scots songs ; but I soon found that these were highly sa> tisfnctory, and that the name of Robert Burns was as well known, and as highly esteemed in Virginia, us in Ayrshire. Our captain was both a son of Neptune and a son of Mars ; and could adapt the technical language of these professions to the dift'crent movements of the stage, with remarkable facility. "When the coach heeled to one side, he would call out " To the right and left, and cover your flanks — whiz ;" and when we passed a stream bv a ford, he would sing out, " by the deep nine," oc- companied with all the attitudes of heaving the lead. The day was clear, pleasant, and healthy ; and in this strain of merriment and good humour, we prosecuted our journey much to our satis- faction. From where we breakfasted, we travelled through a hilly coun- try, and but partially cultivated, to Dumfries, a small town con- taining about 300 inhabitants, court-house, jail, &c. ; and from thence we passed on through a hilly country, but more improved, to Fredericksburg, 25 miles, where we stopped for the night. Fredericksburg is situated on the south-west side of Rappahan- noc river. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one an- other at right angles, and consists of about 300 houses, contain- ing about 1600 inhabitants. The principal public buildings are an episcopal church, an academy, court-house, and jail. It carries on a considerable trade, principally in flour and tobacco. The Rappahannock river rises in the Blue Mountains, by two considerable streams, called Rapid Ann river and Hedgeman and thus or- 1 title I shall ^ companion. withal, very permission of IS all in good should, when y, or pay five iiediately car- gree of mcrri* t a loss, as I ling but Scots vcre highly sa- gs well known, son of Mars; Dfcssions to the icility. When « To the right •n we passed a oep nine," ac- ead. The day of merriment 1 to our sati*- h a hilly coun- nall town con- ic.; and from nore improved, the night. of Rappahan- rossing one an- ouscs, contain- )uildings are an ail. It carries )acco. Mountains, by and Hedgeman vinciNiAi 159 river; which unite about 12 miles above this place, and, running a south-east course, falls into the CJicsapeak bay about 90 mileti below Fredericksburg, where it is about three n)ilcs bruad. It is navigable to Fredericksburg, where it has two fathoms water.* On Tuesday, the 7th October, we started from Fredericksburg, at 1 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through an uneven country, and pretty well cultivated, to Bowling-Grecn, 22 miles ; and a few miles further, we passsed Mattapony river. This river rises about 20 miles above where wc crossetl it, and runs a south- east course, about 80 miles, when it joins the Pamunky river, and Ibrras York river. It is navigable to Downer's bridge, 70 milen above its mouth.f About 15 miles from this river, we travelled through a country nearly similar to that described, but the soil rather sandy, to Pamunky river. This river is formed by tha north and south Anna rivers, which rise in the north-west, about 50 or 60 miles distant, and form a junction about 15 miles above where we crossed. From thence it holds a south-east course, but with many windings, about 50 miles, when it forms the junction with Mattapony river aforesaid. It is navigable for boats about 40 miles above where we crossed it. York river is composed of these two rivers, and widening to a considerable extent, it passes into the Chesapeak bay, by a channel of about three miles. York- town is situated 12 miles up this river, and is the best harbour In the state for vessels of the largest size. " The river narrows to the width of a mile at York, and is contained within very high banks, close under which vessels may ride. It holds four fathoms water at high tide for 25 miles above York, where the river is a mile and a half wide, and the channel only 75 fathoms. At the confluence of the Pamunky and Mattapony it is reduced tu tinea fathoms deep."| York is remarkable as being the place where the contest with Britain was decided by the capture of lord Cornwallis. After crossing this river we passed Hanover court-house, and the road proceeds through a country nearly similar to that already described, Si- miles, to Richmond, the capital of Virginia, which we reached to dinner. In our way we pai ■ ~ h ' ViRGlNTA. 161 siShce T licvcf saw before, it being ci3(mmoii to lay th^ toll oft' the cdJ*riage 6nly. The scenery dt this place was very beautiful. James Rivei' is one of the most important in the stite of Virw ginia. It rises nedr the Allegaiiy Mdilntaih's, nearly 200 rtilds west from Richmoiid, dnd ptirsuitig a course to the eastward, runs through all the other chains passes Richmbhd, and receives the Wa- ters of the Appomatox about 25 miles belovi^ that tity. From thehces it exhibits a curious appearance, widening dnd contracting alemdte-' ly, and, by a crooked pasiwigc of about *7b miles, fklls into Chesa- (jeak Bay, 1 5 miles to the westwal-d of Cupe Heriry ; its whble length, includirig its windings, being upwai'ds of 300 miles. The principal tributary streams to this river are the Rivannah, on which is Monti- cello, the seat of president Jelferson, the Appt»mattox, the Chick* ahomaily, the Nanscmond, and the Elizabeth, on v^hich last ii Norfolk. " The whole of Elizabeth River is a hafboui*, and would contain upwards of 300 ships. The channel is from 150 t6 200 fathom wide, and, at flood tide, affords 18 feet water to Norfolk. The Nansemond is rtavigable to Sleepy Hole for ves- sels of 250 tons ; to Suffolk for those of 100 tons ; and to Milner's for those of 25. Chickahomany has at its mouth a bar, on which is only 1 2 feet water at commoil flood tide. Vessels passing that, may i^o 8 miles up the river; those of 10 feet water may go 4 miles fui-ther ; and those of 6 tons bUrden 20 miles further, ilife Rivannah is navigable for canoes and batteaux 22 miles, to the South-west Mountains, and may be easily opetied to navigation through these mountains to its fork above Charlottesville."* " James River itself affords harbour for vessels of any size in Hampton Road, but not in safety through the winter ; and there is navigable water for them as far as Mulberry Island. A 4«() gun ship goes to Jamestown, and, lightening herself, may pass to Harrison's Bar, on which there is only 15 feet water. Vessels of 250 tons may go to Warwick; those of 125 go to Rocket's, a mile below Richmond ; from thence is about 7 feet water to Richmond; and about the centre of the town, 4^ feet, where the navigation is interrupted by falls, which, in a course of 6 miles, descend about 80 feet perpendicular. Above these, it is resumed in canoes and batteaux, and is prosecuted safely to within 10 miles of the Blue Ridge; and even through the Ridge a ton • Jefferson's Notes. 21 ..^-,,-» « »■. 162 TIIAVBU IM weight has been brought ; and the expence would not be grett, when compared with its objects, to open a tolerable navigation up Jackson's River arid Carpenter's Creek, to within 25 miles of Howard's Creek of Oreenbriar, both of which have then water enough to float vessels into the Great Kanhaway. In some future state of population, I think it possible that its navigation may also be made to interlock with that of the Potomac, and, through that, to communicate by a short portage with the Ohio."* A company has been incorporated by the state for improving the navigation of this river with a capital of 140,000 dollars, of which the state owns 50,000 ; and they are bound by the charter to re- move all obstructions, so as there may never be less than 12 inches of water over all the shoals from the upper end of the lower falls to Pattonborough, in the middle of the mountains, and distant from Richmond upwards of 200 miles. The company have pro- secuted the business with a laudable zeal, and have expended up- wards of 200,000 dollars upon it< A canal is drawn from the river at the upper end of the falls, and proceeds 200 yards, when it is lowered 34 feet, by 3 locks, and again enters the river. From thence the navigation is perfect for 3 miles, when another canal commences, and runsS^ miles to a basin at Richmond, where the navigation terminates. It was contemplated by the charter to Continue the canal to tlie tide M'ater, but the plan is for the pre- sent suspended. The basin is a mile and a haU from the port of Richmond, and is 80 feet above tide-waten From the upper end of tlie great falls to the basin the distance is 6^ miles, and the descent 4S feet; making in all 128 feet descent in 8 miles. The navigation of the river from above the falls to its extremi* ty among the mountains, is considered better than that of anj of the other Atlantic riVers ; and it may be observed that coal is found here in great abundance, a circumstance which occurs no where else in the vicinity of tide watcQ in the United States. From Richmond we travelled 25 miles to Petersburg, where we stopped for the night. The country I could see but partially, as we passed a considerable part of it in the dark. We crossed several small streams in our way, and near Petersburg the Appo- mattox river before alluded to. This river rises near the mountains, and is in length upwards * JcfTenon's Notts. ^.^g^lllll« "11 VIR&IKIA. \6$ ef 100 tnileft to its junction with James river. « It may be na> vigated as far as Broadway's by any Tessel which has crossed Har<^' rition's bar, on James river. It keeps eight or ten feet water a mile or two higher ap to Fisher's bar, and four feet oa that, and up- wards, w^here all navigation ceases."* Petersburg is situated on the aforesaid river, immediately be- low the falls, and is a place of considerable wealth and importance, carrying on a great trade in tobacco and flour, a ctmsiderable portion of which is with New York. The population, m 1800, was 2034 free people, and 1481 slaves. The population is said to be composed principally of Irish people, and they are distin- guished for frank liberal manners, and high-spirited patriotism. The principal public buildings are* two places for public woi> ship, a court-house, jail, and freemason's hall* The market is Well supplied with provisions ; and lihere are nu- merous mills in and about the tpwn. It was past } 1 o'clock at night before we arrived, and we learn- ed that the stage was to set out at one o'clock next morning. We considered it therefore entirely useless to go to bed, and the captain carried me to see some gentlemen of his acquaintance. There were six or eight of them, all agreeable young men, pnost of them Irish- men ; and the captain, being intimately acquainted with them, was welcomed with much affection, and 1 was cordially taken by the hand as his friend, for whom he was pleased to express a parti- cular regard. They had a violin in the room, which was im- mediately adjusted to the tune of thp Thistle and the Shamroclci\ and we had a most harmonious concert of jigs and strathspeys, while Yankee Doodle was not forgotten. The M)ng, the senti- ment, and the toast followed. " An agQ could not haye made us better acquainted," and we united in opinion, that there was no country on the face of the earth like tins, where pcq)le of all nations, kindreds, tpngues, and languages, could with suph hap- py facility meet and harmonize in the spirit of unjty, and )n the bond of peace. ** But pleasures are like poppies spread." We were in the full exercise and enjoymeptof tli^se sentiments when we were called away to take our places in the stage, and I \efi this little liberal circle with sentiments of friendly regard. October 8, at one o'clock, we left Petersburg. \% this early • Jefferson's Notei. t Tlw reader will no: find Uiis air in any «f the nodera CngU.h MllwcUtfii4', 1 wn-) 1 L-iJ-ii'ti? v'-v?nl'': Before I proceed to give a general account of this state, I may notice, that a most important service has been rendered to its geography, by the publication of the Notes of Mr. Jefferson ; a work replete with valuable information, and exhibiting in every page the marks of a vigorous intellect and a philosophic mind. This work may be justly considered as the basis of the geography of the state of Virginia ; and though, from the progressive nature of the subject, it does not now contain the necessary informa- tion, on some points, yet the traveller in this state will find it a most valuable companion ; and by giving it a careful perusal, will be amply rewarded for his trouble. " The Notes were written in the year 1781, and somev/hat "•i: L*^ otry was hilly, iwned upon utt appeared pret- 0, but, in con- ;ry e^^Uibitecl q, >* • vay river, by a bove where we c 100 miles, it Carolina, and, into Albemarle d the Meherrin. much improved, Home crops of and corn. The we crossed it, ;tion, it forms a r, we passed the iew of the great; { "u. ■:•""< ■' iyiU'' •'■■■: "f • t '-..... I '■\i u: 1.1 i.-J» of this state, I een rendered to Mr. Jeft'crson; libiting in every lilosophic mind. )f the geography rogressive nature ccssary informa- state will find it careful perusal, and somev/liat correeted and enlarg«d in 178?, in answer to ijuerie* propp$ed tQ the author, by a foreigner of distinction (M. do Marboi^ 4ecre>v taryof the French legation,) then residuig iu America." Tbj? work is arranged QO Ithe follpwing plan. "1 Boundari^?* 2 Rivers, 3 Sea-ports. 4> Mountains. 5 Cascades. ►nth- bi-". I'KdkKyy ' ! • ) ' 13 Constitution. H Laws. >„ t,^,. 15 Colleges, buildings, and roadk, 16 Proceedings as to tories. 17 Rpligion. 6 Productions, mineral, vegeta- 18 Manners. jiar ble, and aninial. 7 Climate. 8 Popplation. 9 Military force. 10 Marine force. 1( Aborigines. 19 Manufactures. ■••*r' J?' 20 Subjects of commerce. 21 Weights, measures, and money* ii2 Public revenue. ,. ., ,. 23 tlistories, memorials, and state papers " 12 Counties and towns. With three numbers of an Appendix. It is from this vuluable work that the facts exhibited in the fpllowing short sketch are chiefly taken ; and wherever the brevi« ty of the subjept would admit, I have given them in Mr. Jeffer- son's own elegant language, although I have adhered to my ori- ginal arrangement of the various subjects. It nuay be observed here, that since Mr, Jefferson's Notes were compiled, Kentucky has been formed into a separate state, which makes a material al- teration in the dimensions of the state of Virginia. Virginia is situated between 36' 30' and 39° 43' north latitude^, and 1° east, and 6° 25' west longitude. The extreme length of the state from east to west is 442 miles, and the extreme breadth from the North Carolina line to the Pennsylvania line is 235 ( but it may be observed that there is a small part of the state thaj; stretches along the banks of the Ohio, to the west of Pennsylvania,, about 60 miles long, and on an average 10 broad; and there i| another small part, about 55 miles long and 12 broad, to the cast of the Chesapeak. The area is computed at 70,500 square miles, being nearly as large as the whole island of Britain, com- puted at 77,243. The number of acres in Virginia is 45,120,000. The face of the country is somewhat assimilated to Pennsyl- vania, including Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland. The eastern part extends along the sea coast about 115 miles, of which the outlet if M- hn 166 * TUVSU IK oftheChesapeak, •Iready noticed, occupies 20; and this elegant confluence of waters, so often referred to, forms a great variety in this part of the state. From the sea coast to the head of the tide waters, about 100 miles, the country is mostly level, and o- bounds with swamps. From thence to the mountains it is agree- ably uneven, and affords delightful prospects. The mountainous district is about 100 miles in breadth, and the ridges continue, as in Pennsylvania, to range from north-east to south-west Be- yond the mountains the country is much variegated — ^here swell* ing out into considerable hills, — there subsiding into agreeable valleys ; and so contiimes to the Ohio, about 60 miles. The Al- legany chain is the ridge which divides the waters of the Atlantic from the Mississippi, and its summit is more elevated above the ocean than that of the others : but its relative height, compared with the base on which it stands, is not so great, because the country rises behind the successive ridges like steps of stairs. The most elevated point does not exceed 4000 feet, and few amount to more than 2500. The whole of the Atlantic rivers have been already noticed ; the others are but few. The state is watered to the westward by the Ohio upwards of 240 miles, and the Great Sandy river forms the boundary, for upwards of 100 miles, between it and Kentuc- ky. The most important river, to the westward, is the Great Kanhaway, " a river of considerable note for the fertili^ of its lands, and still more, as leading towards the head waters of James river. Nevertheless, it is doubtful whether its great and numer- ous falls will admit a navigation but at an expence to which it will require ages to render its inhabitants equal. The great obstacles begin at what are called the great falls, 90 miles above its month, below which are only 5 or 6 rapids, and these possa^ ble, with some difficulty, even at low water. From the falls to the month of Greenbriar is 100 miles, and thence to the lead mines 120. It is 280 yards wide at its mouth."* ** The little Kanhaway is 150 yards wide at the mouth, and is navigable for 10 miles only."f The Shenandoah river rises in the interior of the country, and running a north-east course, of about 250 miles, through the great Limestone valley, parallel to the mountains, fells into the * Jefferson's Noten. 't"i t Ibid. VIRGINIA. 167 Potomae just above the Blue Ridge. The junction of the riven, and the passage through the Blue Ridge is said to be one of the finest scenes in nature, and is thus elegantly described by Mr. Je^ ferson. ** You stand on a very high point of land. On your right comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of th« mountain an hundred miles to s^k a vent On your left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also. — In the moment of their junction they rush togetlier against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass offto the sea. .. <»<^. -^ ** The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opi- nion that this earth has been created in time ; that the mountuns were formed first; that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that, in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley ; that continuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the moimtain down from its sum- mit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, but particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disrupture and avul- sion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corro- borate the impression. — But the distant finishing which uature has given to the picture is of a very different character. — It is a true contrast to the for^round. — It is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous. — For the mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the cleft, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult roaring around, to pass through the breach, and participate of the calm below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and that way the road happens act- ually to lead. — ^You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass a- long its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about 20 milei reach Frederiektown, and the fine country around it. This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic ; yet there are peo- ple who have spent their whole lives within half a dozen of miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.*" " The only remarkable cascade in this country is that of the fall- ■\ ■^ ••(.:■: 1 :•■■■ ■ - a ■ r • - r4-- Jtfiersoa's Kotct. ■ki fi t ' I iili VfUGINlA. ing springs in Augusta : it is a Water of Jameii river, ifhet^ it \% called Jackson's river, rising in the warm spring, atid flowing ifito that valley. About three quarters df a mile hotii its source it iails over a rock ^00 feet, into the valley below. The shert of water \i broken in its bt-eadth by the rbck, in two or three places, but not at all in its height. Between the sheet and the rock at the bottom you maw walk across dry."* In the limestone country thel*fe are many cavWus of v6i^ consi- derable extent. " ITie most noted is called MadiiSort's tave, and is £in the north side of the Blue Ridge, hear the inters^ctibh oftlie Rockingham and Augusta line with the south fbrk of the southctn rivet of Shenandoah. . It is in a hill of abotit 200 feet perpetidieuhr height, the ascent of which, on one side, is so steep that you may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washeji its base. The entrance of the cave is, in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends into the earth about 900 feet, branching into Subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending a little, but more gcne- ifally descending, and at length terminsiftes, in two difierent places, at basins of water of unknown Extent, and which I should judge to be nearly on a level with the Water of the river.*' " Tlie vault of this cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 or SO feet high, through which the Water is continually percolating. This trickling down the sides of the cave has incriisted them over in the forrti of elegant drapery ; and dripping frorti the top of the Vdult, generates on that and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, Some of which have met, and formed massive cOlumns."f '' Another of these caves is near the North Mountain in Frederick county. " The entrance into this is oh the top 6f tin extensive ridge. You descend SO or 40 feet, as into a well, from Whetice the cave then extends, nearly horizontrilly, 400 feet into the earth, pre- serving a bi'eadth of from 20 to 50 feet, and height of from 5 to 12 feet. After entering this cave a few feet, the Iilei*cury, Which Was in the open air at ^0**, rose to 31°."% *' " At the Panther gap, in the ridge which divides the waters df itfie Cow and Calf Pasture, is what is called the Blowing chve. It i^ in the side of a hill, is of about 100 feet diameter, and..eniits ccfii- stantly a current of air of such force as to keep the weeds prostrate ibr 20 ybxds before it. It is Wrongest in dry frosty weather, and * Jcffenon's Notes. f lb. Mb- 1 / VIRGINIA. 169 i flowing M(s sburte it falls ert of vrattr \i ices, but not at at the bottom sofvtfyconsl- ►rt'Htave, and is ers^ctiott of the ofthcfiOUthetn Bt perpcttdiduht ;p that you may I washe* its base, two-thivdsofthb t, branching into ?, but more gcne- , different places, I 1 should judge et." " Tlie vault or SO feet high, T. this trickling rer in the foriti rf .etdult, gen^r^cs lical form, ^me of li^ii. I.. - Udfes tbeftvatcrtdf JBlomngcstve. It Iter, and. emits cm- [the weeds prostrate Ifrosty weather, and lb. weakest in long spells of rain."* ** There is another blowing cave in the Cumberland mountain, about a mile from the Carolina line.*'t The Natural Bridge, in this state, is one of the most sublune of nature's works. " It is on the ascent of a hill, which seems to have been cloven through its length by some great convulsion. The fis- sure, just at the bridge, is, by some admeasurements, 270 feet deep, by others only 205. It is about 45 feet wide at the bottom, and 90 at the top; this of course determines the length of the bridge, and its height from the water. Its breadth in the middle, is about 60 feet, but more at the ends ; and the thickness of the mass, at the summit of the arch, about 40 feet. A part of this thickness is con- stitutdd by a coat of earth, which.give6 growth to many large trees. Tlie residue, with the hill on both sides, is one solid rock of lime- stone. The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form, but the larger axis of the eVJpsis, which would be the chord of the arch, is many times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this bridge are provided in some parts with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have resolution to walk to them, and look over into the a- byss. You involuntarily fall on your hands and your feet, creep to the parapet and peep over it. Looking down from this height a- bout a minute, gave me a violent head-ach. If the^icw from the top be painful and intolerable, that from below is delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for the emotions arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what they are here : so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light, and springing, as it were^ up to heaven ! the rapture of the spectator is really indescribable. The fissure conti- nuing narrow, deep, and straight for a considerable distance above and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleasing view of the North Mountain on one side, and Blue llidge on the other, at tlie distance each of them of about five miles. This bridge is in the county of Rockbridge, to which it has given name, and affords a put.iC and very commodious passage over a valley which cannot be crossed elsewhere for a considerable distance. The stream pass- ing under it is called Cedar creek. It is a water of Jame^' river and sufficient in the driest seasons to turn a grist-mill, though its fountiiin is not more than two miles above."| There are a great variety of minerals and mineral springs iii the state. Iron is very plenty, and several mines of lead have been • Jcffenon's Notes. t lb. t lb. 23 J 70 VIDCINIA. opened. Some copper, black-leud, and precious stoned have been found, and in one instance gold watt discovered. Limestone is plenty, and coal is abundant ut Richmond, in some places among the mountains, and in the western country. Of the mineral springs, the warm and hot springs, and the sweet spring, are the most re- markable. They are situated near the sources of James river, at the foot of the Allegany mountains, about 42 miles apart. They are now well known, and much resorted to. There are sulphur springs in several places ; and on the Kanhaway river, 67 miles from its outlet, there is a very remarkable air spring. The hole from which it issues is of the capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, and the current of air so strong " as to give the sand about its orifice tlie motion which it has in a boiling spring. On presenting a lighted candle or torch within 18 inches of the hole, it flumes up in a column of 18 inches in diameter, and 4 or 5 feet in height, 'which sometimes burns out within 20 minutes, and at other times has been known to continue burning for three days, and to have been left in that state. The flame is unsteady, of the density of burn- ing spirits, and smells like burning pit-coal."* " There is a simi- lar spring ou Sandy river, the flame of which is a coluum about 1 2 inches diameter, and three feet high."f The soil in the low part of the state is sandy, except on the banks of the rivers, where it is very rich. Between the head of the tide-waters and the mountains, it exhibits a great variety, and a considerable portion ,is good. Among the mountains there is a great deal of poor land, but it is interspersed with : ich valleys. Btyopd the mountains the soil is generally rich and fertile. The climate of Virginia is very various, and is subject to great and sudden changes. In the greater part of the country below the head of the tide-waters, the summers are hot and sultry, and the winters mild. From thence to the foot of the mountains the air is more pure and clastic, and both summers and winters are several degrees of temperature below the low country. Among the mountains, the summers arc delightful, though sometimes the Iicat is very great. To the westward the climate is temperate, the summers being cooler and the winlcis warmer than on the sea coaiiti Except in the neighbourhood of stagnant waters, in the low coun- try, Virginia has, upon the whole, a healthy climate. • Jefiersoii's Notes t Ibid. VtROlMIA. 171 The first permanent settlement of Virginia was by the English, in If? 10. In 1619, a Mr. Rolf married Pocahontas, the daughter of Powhatan, an Indian chief, and the connexion was the foun- dation for a friendly commerce between the Enj^Ush settlers and the Indians. In 1616 the culture of tobacco became general. The same year Mr. Rolf and his wife Pocahontas visited Englond, where she was introduced at court, and treated with great respect. She died the year following at Gravesend, and left a son, whose descendants still survive in Virginio. In 1618 the colony amount- ed to upwards of 60,000 people. In 1 78* Virginia appointed seven delegates to the first congress, and took a decisive part in the war for independence. The state constitution was framed in 1776, and was the first in the United States. Virginia now sends 2 senators and 22 representatives to congress. The state is divided into an eastern and western district, and 90 counties. In 1 800 it contained a population of 540,353 free persons, and 345,796 slaves, in all 886,149; being upwards of 12 to the square mile. •" ."<"'» xis y^ n-^^.^i • r. There are no towns of any material consequence in Virginia, wbicli has been attributed, and probably with reason, to the cir- cumstance of the state being so completely intersected with navi- gable rivers, that a market is brought almost to every man's door, and they have no inducement to establish large cities. Norfolk is the largest town, and the most commercial in tlie state. It contained, by the census of 1800, nearly 7000 inhabi- tants, which have since greatly encreased.* It is a place of very extended commerce, principally in flour and tobacco, and its com- merce and population will probably continue to encrcase for a long period. Mr. Jefferson remarks, in his Notes, " that it will probably be the emporium for all the trade of the Chesnj^eak bay and its waters, and a canal of 8 or 10 miles will bring to it nil that of the Albemarle sound and its waters." The same sentiment wa* expressed in conversation with me. But it is to be observed, that the Chesapeak bay and its waters are navigable a long way into the interior of the countr^', in consequence of which, probably no single town or city will be the emporium for all the trade ; it will be divided among many. We accordingly find numerous towns upon those waters, many of which have already been noticed; and the following may be added. ; „-,.:•: . •; ■ ' v ■ -'■■ •" ■■:>^'l •,,■ ;:riia ■'^i - >.'- ' f •By the census of 1810, tlioy amount to 91D3. f 4«l. 179 vmaiNiA. On llappahannoc, Urbanna, Port Koyal, Falmouth. On Potomac and its waters, Dumirics, Colchester, Winches- tor, Staunton. On York river and its waters, York, Newcastle, Hanover. On James river and its waters, Portsmouth, Hampton, Suffolk, Smithfield, Williamsburg, Manchester, Charlottesville. There is no very important town in the western part of the state. Wheeling, on the Ohio, will probably increase more than any other. The state has of late been considerably improved by roads, but in that branch much yet remains to be done. The canal contem- plated by Mr. Jefferson between the waters of the Chesapeak and Albemarle sound has been cut It is 16 miles in length, and an- swers a most valuable purpose. Considerable improvements have been made upon the navigation of the Shenandoah river ; and there are several very important roods and canals projected. As to the buildings, Mr. Jefferson remarks, " The genius of architec- ture seems to have shed its maledictions over this Innd. Buildings are often erected by individuals at considerable expence. To give these symmetry and taste would not increase their cost. It would only change the arrangement of the materials, and form the com- bination of the members. This would often cost less than the burden of barbarous ornaments with which these buildings are sometimes charged. But the first principles of the art are un- known, and there exists scarcely a model among us sufficiently chaste to give an idea of them. Architecture being one of the fine arts, and, as such, within the department of a professor of the college, according to the new arrangement, perhaps a spark may fall on some young subjects of natural taste,' kindle up their genius, and produce a reformation in this elegant and useful art." Great improvements have doubtless been made since the year 1782, par- ticularly in the towns ; but in the country the houses are mostly composed of wood, and few of them that I saw had either symme- try of design, or elegance of execution to recommend them. Upon the whole, on this branch, the Virginians seem to be far be- hind their northern neighbours, and there is still "much room for the exercise of architectural genius. ; ,, . ,. The great mass of tlie population in Virginia are farmers, or, as they are termed here, planters. Tlie principal branches of agriculture for exportation, are wheat and tobacco; and the farms produce in plenty, Indian corn, rye, barley, buck-wheat, &c. VIRQINU. 173 Hemp and flax arc abundant* and considerable quantitiei of cotton are raised in the southern part of the state. Indigo is cultivated with success, and the silk^worm is a native of the country, though not much attended to. The fields likewise produce potatoes, both sweet and common, turnips, ^^arsnips, carrots, pumpkins, and groundnuts; and of grasses, there are clovers, red, white, and yellow, timothy, ray, greensward, blue gross, and crab grass. The orchards abound in fruit ; apples, pcnrs, peaches, quinces cherries, iipct'irines, apricots, almonds, and plums. The domestic animals thrive well, horses, cows, sheep, hogs, poultry ; and there is a great variety of wild game. The manufactures of the state arc mostly of the domestic kind. I have not heard of any established upon a large scale. Hence the quantity imported annually from Britain must be immense. The principal port in the state being Norfolk, it carries on a vigor- ous trade with Europe, in the surplus produce of the state, and imports largely of dry goods; but a great portion of the trade of tlie fitatc is carried on through the medium of other places, par* ticularly New York. The exports of the state, in 1805, amounted to 5,666,620 dol- lars, of which the greater part was domestic produce; but as no part of the produce sent to other states is included in the custom-house returns, I should be inclined to estimate the surplus produce at nearly double that amount, and their imports, principally of manufactures, at nearly as much, of which probably one half is from Britain. Tlie Notes on Virginia contain ample information on the state of society. Mr. Jefferson considers that it is materially affected by the existence of slavery. " There must doubtless," says he, .jgtf , " be an unhappy influence on the manners of our people by th?' ■^•" existence of slavery among us. The whole commerce betw£eq,{. master and slave is a perpetual exercise of the most boisterous passions, the most unremitting despotism on the one part, and degrading submissions on the other. Our children see this, and learn t« imitate it ; for man is an imitative animal. This quality is the germ of all education in him : from his cradle to his grave, he is learning to do what he sees others do. If a parent could find no motive, either in his philanthrophy or his self-love, for restroining the intemperance of passion towards his slave, it should always be a sufficient one that his child is present But generally it is not sufficient, '^he parent storms, the child looki 174 VIRGINIA. on, catches the lineaments of wrath, puts on the same airs in the circle of smaller slaves, gives a loose to the worst of passions, and thus nursed, educated, and exercised in tyranny, cannot but be stamped by it with odious peculiarities. The man must be a prodigy who can retain his manners and morals undepraved by such circumstances. And with what execration should the states- man be loaded, who, permitting one half of the citizens thus to trample on the rights of the other, transforms those into despots, and these into enemies, destroys the morals of the one part, and the amor patria: of the other. For if a slave can have a country in this world, it must be any other in preference to that in which he is born to live and labour for another ; in which he must lock lip the faculties of his nature, contribute as far as depends on his individual endeavours to the enslavement of the human race, or entail his own miserable condition on the endless generations proceeding from him. With the morals of the people their indus- try also is destroyed. For, in a warm climate, no man will la- bour for himself who can make another labour for liim. This is so true, that of the proprietors of slaves a very small propor- tion iiulccd arc ever seen to labour. And can the liberties of a natron be thought secure when we have removed tlieir only firm basis, a conviction in the minds of the people that these liberties are the gift of God? that they are not to be violated but with his wrath ? Indeed I tremble for my country when I reflect that Gotl is just; that his justice cannot sleep for ever; that consi- dering numbers, nature, and natural means only, a revoltttion of the wheel of fortune, and exchange of situation, is among possi- ble events ; that it may become probable by supeiiiatural inter" fercucc I The Almighty has no attribute that can take side with us in such a contest. — But it is impossible to be temperate, and to pursue this subject through the various considerations of poli- cy, of moi'als, of history natural and civil. We must be con- tented to hope they will force their way into every one's mind. I think a change already perceptible, since the origin of the present revolution. The spirit of the master is abating; that of the slave lisin^ from the dust, his condition mollifying, the way, I hope, preparing, under the auspices of He:iven, for a total emancipation ; and that this is disj)osed, in the order of events, to be with the cwisent of the masters, rather than by their extirpation." This elegant extract, which I could not think of abridging, ^ -I i\^'%*w VIRGINIA. 175 doe? honour to the head and heart of its autlior ; and it is pro- bable, from the great reputation which he holds among his countrymen, that it may have produced a considerable effect in assuaging the evils of slavery. Virginia has long since prohibited the importation of slaves, and has by her members in congress, always supported the question for a total prohibition of that branch, the most odious feature in it. And it is but justice here to observe, that the introduction of slavery in this, and in the other states, v;as a part of the j^olici/ of' the colonial system. Had it not unfortunately taken place before the revolution, it is probable it never would have taken place; for almost every person, with whom 1 have conversed on the subject, have expressed their opinion, that it is not only hurtful to public morals, but contrary to every maxim of sound policy. But it exists ; it is incorporated with the whole sytem of civil society ; its influence has extended through every branch of domestic economy ; and to do it away must be a work of time. There are two colleges in the state ; one of them the college of William and Mary, very liberally endowed. There are several academies, and schools in each county; and there are numerous teachers in private families, as tutors. The means, in short, for educating the wealthy are ample, and extensively applied; but the sytem seems to be defective, so far as the mass of the people are concerned, and that important branch deserves the early at- tention of an enlightened legislature. At the period of the revolution, Virginia being the first state that drew uj) a new constitution, it was necessarily crude and un- digested ; and much of the old leaven remained. The subject of religion, in particular, was not placed on that footing of pcrlbct freedom which is the natural heritage of man, the gift of nature's God; and the subject affords Mr. Jefferson scope for the following romuiks: " By our act of assembly of 1705, c. 30, if a person, brought up in the Christian religion, denies the being of a God, or the Trinity, or asserts there are more Gods than one, or de- nies the christian religion to be true, or the Scriptures to be of divine authority, he is punishable for the first offence bv incapa- city to hold any office or employment, ecclesiastical, civil, or mili- tary ; on the second, by disability to sue, to take any gift or lega- cy, to be £;?/ar(//a/?, executor, or administrator, and by three years iinprisonn)ent without bail. A father's right to the custody of 1 R) .•* Ill ( 176 VIRGINIA. his own children being founded, in law, on his right oi guardian' shipf this being taken away, they may, of course, be severed froin him, and put, by the authority of a court, into more orthodox hands. This is a summary view of that religious slavery, under which a people have been willing to remain, who have lavished their lives and fortunes for the establishment of civil freedom. The error seems not sufficiently eradicated, that the operations of the mind, as well as the acts of the body, tire subject to the coer- cion of the laws. But our rulers can have authority over such natural rights only as wo have submitted to them. The rights of conscience we never submitted, we could not submit. We are answerable for them to our God. The legitimate powers of go- vernment extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. Dut it does me no injustice for my neighbour to say, there are twenty Gods, or no God. It neither picks my pocket, nor break* my leg. If it be said, his testimony in a court of justice cannot be relied on, reject it then, and be the stigma on him. Constraint may make him worse, by making him a hypocrite ; but it will never make him a truer man. It may fix him obstinately in his errors, but will not cure them. Reason and free inquiry are the only effec- tual agents against error. Give a loose to them, they will sup- j)ort the true religion, by bringing every false one to their tribunal, to the test of investigation. 'J'hey are the natural enemies of error, and of error only. Had not the Roman government permitted free inquiry, Christianity could never have been introduced. Had not free inquiry been indulged at the era of the reformation, the corruptions of Christianity could not have been purged away. If it be restrained now, the present corruptions will be protected, and new ones encouraged. Was the government to prescribe to us our medicine and diet, our bodies would be in such keeping as OU4' souls are now. Tluis, in France, the emetic was once for- bidden as a medicine, and the potatoe as an article of food. Go- vernment is just as inlallible, too, when it fixes systems in phy- sics. Galileo was sent to the inquisition for affirming, that the earth was a sphere. The government had declared it to be ti* flat as a trencher, and Galileo was obliged to abjure his err'>r. This error, however, at length prevailed ; the earth became a globe ; and Descartes declared, it whirled round its axis by a vortex. The govonmeiit in which he lived was wise enough to see that this was no question of civil juribdiction, or we should S?i(i^ J VIRGINIA. 177 all have been involved by authority in vortices. In fact, the vor- tices have been exploded, and the Newtonian principle of gravi- tation is now more firmly established, on the basis of reason, than it would be were the government to step in, and make it an arti- clc of necessary faith. Reason and experiment have been indul<;- ed, and error has fled before them. It is error alone which needs the support of government. Truth can stand by itself. Subject opinion to coercion, whom will you make your inquisitors? Falli- ble nicn ; men governed by bad passions, by private as well as pubHc reasons. And why subject it to coercion ? To produce uni- formity. But is uniformity of opinion desirable ? No more than the face and stature. Introduce the bed of Procrustes then, and, as there is danger that the large man may beat the small, make us all of a size, by lopping the former, and stretching the latter. Difference of opinion is advantageous in religion. The several sects perform the office of a censor moriim over each other. Is uniformity attainable ? Millions of iimocent men, women, and children, since the introduction of Christianity, have been burnt, tortured, fined, imprisoned; yet we have not advanced one inch towards Uniformity. What has been the effect of coercion ? To make one half of the world fools, and the other hypocrites ; to support roguery and error all over the earth. Let us reflect that it is inhabited by a thousand millions of people ; that they pro- fess ])robably a thousand different systems of religion ; that ours is but orie of that thousand ; that, if there be but one right, and ourn that one, we would wish to see nine hundred and ninety-nine wandering sects gatfiered into the fold of truth. But against such a majority, we cannot effect this by force. Reason and persua- sion are the only practicable instruments. To make way for these, tree inquiry must be indulged; and how can we wish others to indulge it, while we refuse it ourselves ? But every state, says an inquisitor, has established some religion. No two, say I, have established the same. Is this a proof of the infallibility of estab- lishments? Our sister states of Pennsylvania and New York, how- ever, have long subsisted without any establishment at all. The experiment was new and doubthil when tliey made it. It has an- swered beyond conception. They iljiu'ish infinitely. Religion is well supported ; of various kinds, indeed, but all good eiu)Ugh : all bufflcient to j)rcservc peace and order. Or, if a sect arises, whoie tenet* uould subvert morals, good sense has fair play, and 23 t. ti ' fc »w\—^Pw|||j|^i,g^^*1^b-Jj|iK I< ?78 VIIIGINIA. reason's and laughs it but of doors, ^vithoul suffering the state to be troubled with it. They do not hang more malefactors than we do. They are not more disturbed with religious dissentions. On the contrary, their harmony is unparalleled, and can be ascribed to nothing but their unbountled tolerance, because there is no other circumstance in which they differ from every other nation on earth. They have made the happy discovery that the way to silence reli- gious disputes is to take no notice of them. Let us, too, give tlm experiment fair play, and get rid, while we may, of these tyrannical laws." The experiment has been tried, and has succeeded. — An act pass- ed the Virginia Assembly, in the beginning of 1786, in which it is ticclarcd, that, being " well aware that Almighty God hath created the mind free ; that all attempts to influence it by temporal punish- ments or burthens, or by civil incapacitations, tend only to beget habits of hypocrisy and meanness, and are a departure from tlie plan of the holy Author of our religion, who being Lord over both body and mind, yet chose not to propagate it by coercions in cither, &c. — Be it therefore enacted by the General Assembly, That no man shall be compelled to frequent or support any reli- gious worship, place, or ministry whatsoever, nor shall be enforced, restrained, molested, or burthened in his body or goods, nor shall otherwise suffer on account of his religious opinions or belief; but that all men shall be free to profess, and by arguments to maintain their opinions in matters of religion, and that the same shall in no wise diminish, enlarge, or affect their civil capacities." The following are the outlines of the foim of state government : " The executive powers are lodged in the hands of a governor, chosen annually, and incapableof acting any more than three years in seven. He is assisted by a council of eight members. The ju- diciary i)owers are divided among several courts. Legislation is ex. erciscd by two houses of assembly, the one call td the House of De- legates, composed of two members from each county, chosen annu- ally by the citizens possessing an estate for life in 100 acres of un- inhabited land, or 25 acres with a house and lot on it, or a house or lot in some town. The other, called the Senate, consisting of 21 members, chosen quadrennially by the same electors, who, for this purpose, arc distiibutcd into 24 districts, 'llie concurrence of both houses is necessary to the passage of a law : they have the appoint- ment of the <;overnor and council, the judges of the superior courts, ^ rs, who, lor this VIRGINIA. 179 auditors, attorney-general, treasurer, register of the land-office, and delegates to congress." I have bestowed considerable pains to make myself master of the geography and political importance of this state, because from its situation and extent it must necessarily have a great influence on the body politic of the United States. It is the largest state in the U- nion, and has given two presidents, out of three, to the United ►States. It is geographically central, and from its position must ne- cessarily include or be contiguous to the seat of the general go- vernment, while the states remain in their present united form. Per- haps, too, it may be the best situation for forming a general theory of the climate of the United S'itcs; and probably Monticello, the seat of Mr. Jefferson, may be one of the best positions in Virginia for making experiments, and contrasting them with those made in other places ; and Mr. Jefferson has in a very laudable manner a- vailed himself of this advantage. ' As Mr. Jefferson's Notes arc well known, and may be considered as containing authentic information on many important topics re- lative to this his native state, 1 have indulged myself by making co- pious extracts on the particular subjects to which they had refei- ence ; and I shall now close this article by a few more miscellane- ous subjects, which I consider not only as valuable in themselves, but very important, as containing Mr. Jefferson's opinions on seve- ral points of political economy. - On Government. The following extracts are from the draft of a fundamental con- stitution for the commonwealth of Virginia. " The said state shall for ever hereafter be governed as a com- monwealth. " The power of government shall be divided into three distinct departments, each of them to be confided to a s^arate body of ma- gistracy" — legislative— judiciary — and executive. " The legislature shall consist of two branches, the one to be call- ed the house of delegates, the other the senate — and both the ge- neral ass-enibly " The delegates to be elected annually ; the senators bienuiallj^, and one half to vacate their scats each year. " All free male citizens, of full age, and sane mind, who for one year before shall have been resident in the county, or shall through \\ 180 VIRGINIA. the whole of that time have possessed therein real property of the value of , or shall for the same time have been enrolled in the militia, and no others, shall have a right to vote for delegates for the said county, and for senatorial electors for the district. They shall give their votes personally, and wm voce. " The executive power shall be exercised by a governor, who shall be chosen by joint ballot of both houses of assembly, and when chosen .shall remain in office five years, and be ineligible a second time. • ■ " A council of state shall be chosen by joint ballot of both houses of assembly, who shall hold their oilices seven years, and be ineligi- ble a second time. Their duty shall be to attend and advise the go- vernor : they shall annually choose a president, who shall preside in council in absence of the governor, and who, in case of his office becoming vacant by death, or otherwise, shall have authority to ex- ercise all his functions, till a new appointment be made. " The judiciary shall be exercised by county courts, and such o- ther inferior courts ps the legislature shall think proper to continue or to erect; by three superior courts, to wit, a court of admiralty, a general court of common law, and a high court of chancery ; and by one supreme court, to be called the court of appeals. " The governor, two counsellors of state, and a judge from each of the superior courts of chancery, common law and admiralty, shall be a council to revise all bills which shall have passed both houses of assembly. " The military shall be subordinate to the civil power. " Printing presses shall be subject to no other restraint than li- ableness to legal prosecution for false facts printed and published," On the Imporfation of Foreigners. " But are there no inconveniencies to be thrown into the scale a- gainst the advantage expected from a multiplication of numbers, by the importation of foreigners ? It is for the happiness of those united in society to harmonize as much as possible in matters which they must of necessity transact together. Civil government being the sole object of forming societies, its administration must be conduct- ed by common consent. Every sjjecies of governmont has its spe- cific principles. Ours perhaps are more peculiar than those of any other in the universe. It is a composition of the Irccst princij)lcs of the English constitution, witli others derived liom natural riglit -'Si^ ^^\ 'm -»-■ J**!.^' ' VIRGINIA. 181 of both houses and natural reason. To those nothing can be more opposed than the maxims of absolute monarchies. Yet from such we are to ex- pect the greatest number of emigrants. They will bring with them the principles of the governments they leave, imbibeil in their early youth ; or if able to throw them ofl^ it will be in exchange for an unbounded licentiousness, passing, as is usual, from one extreme to another. It wouUl be a miracle were they to stop precisely at the point of temperate liberty. These principles, with their language, they will transmit to their children. In proportion to their num- bers, they will share with us the legislation. They will infuse into it their spirit, warp and bias its direction, and render it a hctoroge- neous, incoherent, distracted mass. I may appeal to experience during the present contest, for a verification of these conjectures." After a few other reflections, Mr. Jefferson adds — " If they come of themselves, they are entitled to all the rights of citizenship; but I doubt the expediency of inviting them by extraordinary encou- ragements. 1 mean not that these doubts should extend to useful artificers. The policy of that measure depends on very different considerations. Spare no expense in obtaining them. They will after a while go to the plough and the hoe; but, in the mean time, they will teach us something we do not know. It is not so in agri- culture: the different state of that among usMoes not proceed from 1 want of jknowledge merely ; it is from pur having such quantities of land, to waste as we please. In Europe the object is to make the most of their land — labour being abundant : here, it is to majte the most of our labour — land being abundant." . . •; On Manufactures^ yigriadtwr, and Comma ce. *' We never had an interior trade of any importance. Our ex- terior commerce Jias suffered very much from the beginnin" of the present contest. During this time we have manufactured within our families the most necessary articles of clothing. Those of cotton will bear some comparison with the same kinds of manufac- ture in Europe ; but those of wool, flax, and hen»p are very coarse, unsightly, and unpleasant: and such is our attachment to agricul- ture, and such our preference for foreign manufactures, that, be it wise or unwise, our people will certainly veturn as soon as they can, to the raising raw materials, and exchanging them for finer manufactures than they are able to execute themselves. ?' The political economists of Europe have established it as s \ ij l^r i\ I. 4 M ■ i m i LSi. ■ IV' 'i'V ,1 182 VIRGINIA. principle that every state should endeavour to manufacture for itself; and this principle, like many others, we transfer to Ameri- ca, without calculating the difference of circumstance which should often produce a different result. In Europe, the lands are either cultivated, or locked up against the cultivator. Manufacture must therefore be resorted to of necessity, not of choice, to support the surj)lus of their people. But we have an immensity of land, court- ing the industry of the husbandman. Is it best then that all our citi- zens should be employed in its improvement,or that one half should be called off from that to exercise manufactures and handicraft arts for the other? Those who labour in the earth are the CHOSEN PEOPLE OF GoD, if cver he had a chosen people, whose breasts he has made his peculiar deposit for substantial and genuine virtue. It is the focus in which he keeps alive that sacre■ ( \\ «i A- ' l 4: 184 tRAVKLS is .if..- ■r running ft south -oast course about 220 miles, falls also into Panill- coe soinid. It in navigable for sea-vessels 12 miles above Newbcrn, for flats no miles further, unci for small bouts nearly 200 miles from its outlet. About ci— •• . -4' NORiri CAROLINA. 185 Iso into I'unili- bove Ncwbcrn, 200 miles from norc fertile ami slopped for the ough which wc lie weather was 'arolina, is situ- hc centre of tlic in of the city U I'l-les, and there ngs. (rce persons and dollars. There the greater part exhibits no very ! in cotton and 4- o'clock in tlie in different di- the stage to our- 3 few objects ex« 'he country was Now and then rpose of making 1 as if they had that commodity, recollecting tht foiii;' I ff^itby agreeable friend 1 in comjjany. and continuing ,o a small i)lace issed Cape rear m in North Ga- le, and running into the Atlan- tic ocean, at Cape Fear, which given it its name. It is about three miles witle at its outlet, and there is 18 feet on the bar nt high water. It is navigable for vessels drawing 10 or 11 feet, to Wilmington ; by sloops 2'i miles above Wilmington; and by boats to Faycttcvillc. I laving crossed this river, we proceeded, nearly along its western bank, 35 miles to Fuyctteville, which we reach- ed about 7 o'clock. Mere my agreeable travelling companion, who was a very re- spectable merchant in the place, invited me to his house, and showed me every degree of hospitality. As no passengers were going on, he urged me to spi'ud a couple of days with him, and as an inducement, promised to introduce me to a Scots highlander, who played delightfully on the bagpipes. I was, however, urgent to be home, and resisted all entreaty. But finding that my funds would not hold out till I reached Charleston, I availed myself of Ids friendship to get a small sui)ply, till I could remit from thence, with which having furnished me, together with letters of introduc- tion to some of his friends in that city, wc parted with mutual good wishes. Fai/cltevi He contains about 1800 inhabitants, is a place of con- siderable trade, and is rising in wealth and importance. The public buildings are handsome; and there are a considerable num- ber of mills, distilleries, breweries, and tan-yards. The ])rincipal produce, carried to Wilmington market, is tobacco, wheat, flour, cotton, flaxseed, and provisions. The country round Fayetteville is generally sandy, but there are rich lands on the banks of the river, and the country is esteem- ed pretty healthy. A great many emigrants from Scotland arc settled in the neighbourhood. Saturday, 11th. The stage started this morning at 5 o'clock, and I was the only passenger. The country became more and more dismal, and was very thinly inhabited. The day was rainy, damp, and disagreeable; the creeks swelled beyond their natural limits, which made crossing very difficult; and the people looked pale and sickly. Every thing conspired to throw me into a gloomy reverie. At one creek we found the bridge so shattered, that we had to unloose the horses and drag over the stage. On reaching J.uiiiberton, "3 miles from Fayetteville, we stopped for the night, at the house of a very intelligent and inquisitive Yankee. 24. \'i ^ -.«=f ■«?tr'7U — IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^./ ^ ,^ .»* % A IM 125 1.0 S itt Uii 12.2 1.1 m ^ LS. 12.0 liiiyi^ii^ Photographic Sciences Corporation '^ 4 m v \ \ [V ^ O^ 23 WBT MAIN STMIT WUSTM.N.Y. 14SM (716)t72-4S03 4% V ' . ft- ^1 h TRAVELS^ IN 166 Lumberton, he told mc, consiated of 33 houses, and contained 164 ^vhitc people, and 44 blacks. He said the place was healthy; but judging from the countenances of the inhabitants, I would have thought otherwise. As to the food, it did not suit my palate at all. It consisted of bacon and brown bread, both of a very sable colour, and for drink we had new peach brandy as hot as pepper. ...*■.-.,■...■ 4^ ^.vji *, ' Sunday, 1 2th. It is customary for the stage to stop all Sun- day ; but having made a short journey yesterday, in consequence of the bndncss of the weather and roads, we had to make up the distance this day; and we set forward on our journey at 9 o'clock. The country became still more tlismal, and the creeks were more swelled, so that we prosecuted our journey with great difficulty ; and at length we met with an accident which proved fatal to one of the horses. "We came to a creek, with a bridge in a very imperfect state. It was constructed of timber; three large logs were stretched across the creek, called sleepers, and these supported a number of mis-ahap^i pieces, called rafters, thrown on at random, without being fixed by either nails or pins. They had been disturbed by the freshet in the creek, and the driver alighted to adjust them. He then drove on ; but on entering the bridge, the fore-wheels gathered the rafters in a heap, which stop- ped the progress of the carriage ; and this happened just as the driver was in the act of whipping up the fore-horses. They sprung forward, and, disengaging themselves with a jerk, by pulling out the staple of the main swingletree, they set od' full speed, the swingletrees rattling at their heels. We alighted, took out the other two horses, and dragged the stage over ourselves ; when, putting in the horses, we moved forward, and half a mile from the creek we found one of the fore-horses lying nearly dead, at the side of a tree. It appeared that one was stronger than the other, and had pulled him off the road into the woods, when, dashing against a tree, the poor animal had got his death blow. I calcu- lated that the bridge could have been put into a substantial state for five dollars ; and this single accident would be a loss of at least 150. A few miles beyond this we reached the stajje, where we dined. Our dinner, as at Lumberton, was black bacon ,- our drink, new peach brandy. But our troubles were only beginning. A mile from where we dined we had to cross Ashpolc swamp, about one- -,,h^.'.^' iV-^-. NORTH CAROLINA. 187 third of a mile in breadth; and here I met with something new. We swam across in the stage, and it was with difficulty that X preserved the mail from a very complete soaking. When I ob- served the fore-horses plunge, I called out to the driver whetlier we must swim ? «' O yes," says he, " swim away through thick and thin." I requested that he would remove the mail to a higher scat. Pie was not for losing time. I insisted I might be allowed to remove my trunk; and this being granted, I prevailed on him to assist me in moving the mail also : which having done, he dash- ed right through the creek. Soon after this we passed the boundary line of South Carolina, 20 miles from Lumberton, at which I gladly pause to take a gene- ral review of the state. , »y:. f^tAr\ » CHAPTER XXXVIII. I ■■■■■'■ I '-" North Carolina Is situated between north latitude 33° 4Y^ and 36** SC, and !« east and 6° 45' west longitude. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 472, and its greatest breadth, from north to south, is 188 miles. It contains 50,500 square miles, or 32,320,000 acres. The face of the country is much diversified. To the east, and south-east, there is a sea-coast of nearly 300 miles, indented with a great number of bays, the principal of which are Albemarle and Pamlicoe sounds, which receive the greater part of the rivers. On the outside of these sounds are some of the most remarkable capes in America, Cape Hattei'as, and Cupe Look-out, and to the southward is Cape Fear. The whole country below the head of tide water, about 100 miles into the interior, is low and sandy, abounding in swamps, and presents an evident appearance of having been at one period overflowed by the sea. The country from ^he head of the tide waters, towardsthe mountains, is agree- ably uneven, and much improved in value. Among the mountains it is exactly similar to the state of Virginia ; but being a few degrees to the south, the value of the country is improved, and the sea- suns in that district are delightful. The state is, upon the whole, well watered. The rivers fall into the Atlantic Ocean, and have been all noticed, except some \ fbi^S 168 XfOXTH CAROLINA. to the southward, which I shall have to cross in my way to Charleston. It is supposed that this state is well supplied in valuable mine- rals, particularly in the mountainous district. Ircm ore is very plenty, and gold has been found in considerable quantities. There are various mineral springs. ' • 'i • • The soil of North Carolina is very similar to that of Virginia. The low part of the state, which is a considerable portion of it, is low, sandy, and barren, abounding in pine trees; and the swamps, which aro very large, produce cedars and bay trees. There are, in this district, good tracts of meadow land along the rivers, which are well cultivated, and produce abundantly. From the head of the tide waters to the mountains, the soil improves, and is very various. The mountainous district is very similar to that in Virginia. The climate in the low country is subject to great and sudden changes, and is often unhealthy in the fall. Generally, the win- ters are mild, but very changeable. The spring is early, but sub- ject to occasional frosts. The summers are hot and sultry, and the autumns arc serene and beautiful ; but the exhalations from the decaying vegetable matter in the marshes and swamps are very injurious to health. In the upper country, the weather is more settled, and, being free from swamps, is healthy. Among the mountains, the climate is remarkably pleasant. The history of the first settlement of North Carolina is con- siderably lost in ob&curity. In 1710, it contained about 1200 fencible men, when the first permanent settlement was made, un- der the direction of the proprietors of South Carolina. In 1728, the proprietors having sold their right to the crown, it was erected into a royal government. The inhabitants took an early and de- cisive part in the war for independecc, and the state suffered very severely. In 1774-, they appointed three delegates to the first . congress, and adopted a state constitution in 1776. It now sends two senators and twelve representatives to congress. The state is divided into 8 districts and 60 counties. The populotioB, in 1800, was 478,103, oifwhom 133,296 were slaves, being upwards of 10 persons to the square mile. The state has made considerable improvements in agriculture^ commerce, and national wealth ; but it exhibits a barren prospect ■•* NO^n CAKOLINA. 189 luable mine- to the traveller. The post road runs through the poorest part of it, and, to use the language of Mr. Jefferson, " the genius of arch- itecture seems to have shed his maledictions over the land." The buildings are mostly of wood, some of them painted, and some not; and they exhibit a very unsightly appearance. Like Vir- ginia, there are no large towns, and there seems to be no occasion for them. Mankind are proliably better accommodated by a great number of small towns than by a few large cities. ■ " Newbern is the chief town. It is situated at the confluence of the Nuse and Trent rivers, on a level point of land, somewhat resem- bling Charleston, South Carolina ; and it carries on a conoidera- ble trade with other places in the state, and the West Indies. The population, in 1800, was 2467, of whom above one half were slaves. Wilmington is the most commercial town in the state. It is situ- ated at the junction of the two brunches of Cajx; Fear river, 35 miles from the sea, and, being the place of depot for a large back country, it carries on considerable tnule, foreign and domes- tic. The town contains about 1700 inhabitants. The houses arc mostly built of wood, and the town has suffered severely from fire at various times. Edenton, on Albemarle Sound, is one of the oldest towns in the state, and was formerly the seat of the royal governors. It is favourably situated for trade, but is low and unhealthy. It con- tains about 750 inhabitants. Raleigh and Fayetteville have been noticed. The others of most note are Washington, Tarborottgh, and Hillsborough, on the Tar river; Halifajc, on_the Roanoke; Salem, on the Yadkin; MorgantawM, on tlie Catawba; and Beauford, near Cape Look- out. The population of these places is from about 300 to 700; and there are many villages containing from 100 to 300. The roads and bridges are yet in an imperfect state, and much remains to be done to make travelling comfortable. The inhabitants arc mostly formers, and produce on their farms every nece!<«ary of life. The principal commodities for sale ave tar, turpentine, pitch, rosin, timber, bees-wax, corn, cotton, and to- bacco. Almost every family in the country manufacture their own clothing, so that the British trade to this state is not great, nor important The greater part of it vk carried on through the I. m-'^ 190 TRAVELS IN 1 medium of Charleston, or the northern states. The direct ex- ports amonnted, in 1805, to 779,903 dollars. The state of society is somewhat similar to Virginia. Many of the planters arc wealthy, frank, and hospitable; and considerable efforts have been made to place education on a respectable foot- ing. A university has been founded, and endowed by the state ; and there arc several respectable academies. But the most im- portant branch, that which has for its object the general diifu- sion of knowledge, has been neglected until of late. In 1808, however, an act passed the legislature to establish common schools throughout the state, which, if followed up, will produce good effects. ,' ' . The legislative authority is vested in a senate and house of com- mons, together styled the General Assembly, and chosen annual- ly. Senators must be possessed of 300 acres of land ; represen- tatives of 100. The electors of senators must be possessed of 50 acres of land ; and of representatives a freehold in some town. The executive is vested in a governor, elected by the General Assembly, and he is not eligible to serve more than three years in six. He is assisted by a council of state, consisting of seven persons, elected by the Assembly annually. The judiciary con- sists of a supreme court, a court of equity, and a court of admi- ralty. The judges are appointed by the Assembly. CHAPTER XXXIX. Wilton, — Georgetffwny — Charleston, ' A.LTHOUGH we had passed into a different state, we had neither a more beautiful country, nor a better road. The one was flat, swampy, and dismal ; the other was bad in the extreme. We passed a small plantation, a mile from the state line, after which we had three miles of a solitary road, when we came to a methodist church, attended by a pretty decent looking congre- gation. Five miles ftum thence is Swimming creek ; but we did not sfwim here, though we had- to wade a long way. A mile farther we reached Little Pedee, where we left the stage, and crossed in a canoe to Ford's, where we stopped for the night ■i- . e direct ex- a. Many of considerable pectable foot- by the state; ihe most im- general diffu- te. In 1808, mmon schools produce good house of com- hosen annual- md; represen- >ossessed of 50 in some to\\Ti. y the General lan three years sting of seven judiciary con- k court of admi- SCTDTH 9AROLINA. 191 The day was moist and warm, rather sultry, but on the witole not disagreeable. The country was more imminently wretched than any I had yet seen, and excited a wonder how it was in- habited at all, when there is so much good land, and so many fine climates, in other parts of the United States. Little Pedec river rises about 80 miles above where we crossed it; it runs a south-cast course about 130 miles, and fulls into the Great Pedee. It is a considerable streamy and at this time was swelled by the late rains to a great extent. It is not navigable. Monday, October lyth. On getting up this morning, at daylight, I found the driver, a youn: i'M- ««**.- ic driver took . r. . SOUTH CAROLINA. 193 be accustomed t6 these Hort of scenes, and ate their coarse fare with idl the composure imaginable. We left this wretched place at half past 1 1 o'clock, and two miles distant came into the old post-roud, which gave us a great degree of pleasure, as the road from Lumberton was all a new line, and dcs- jierately bad. However, our troables were not over ; for, a few miles after entering this road, we came to Lynch's creek, and here the bridge was not only gone, but the water was spread over the face of the earth nearly three quarters of a mile in breadth : there was a house at the other side, but the view was obstructed by the woods, and we had to halloo for half an hoor before we were heard. At last, to use an Irish phrase, we heard the voice of oars plashing in the water, and soon saw two black fellows paddling a huge flat, on which we were taken across. . • • ' " . • Passing over many creeks and swamps of inferior note, and there is hardly any thing else to excite attention in this country, we reoch- ed BJac'kmingo creek, at 4> o'clock in the afternoon. This creek had swelled to a great extent, and part of the bridge was gone, so that we could not get over the stage nor horses. Wc got across with thb mail, which we delivered at the post-office, where we were informed that the Georgetown mail had not arrived ; and so we were set fast, at length, at a miserable little place called Willton, The whole city consisted of only about 15 or 20 houses; as for public buildings, there were none ; but there was a tolerably good wooden building, at which I was told a Scotsman kept a dry-goods store. Aye ! thinks I to myself, notwithstanding the eminent wretchedness of the place, Saunders has found out that something is to be done here. However, Paddy was not behind hand with him. The greater part of the other inhabitants were Iri.' people. I took up my lodgings at the head inn, (there were twr, in the city) and 1 found my landlord a civil obliging little Irishman. I told him my adventures in the stage from Lumberton, at which he laughed heartily, observing, " By J s, you must have had a tough time of it, and I'll warrant you have found the ground of your stumach : well, well, the old woman will have something ready pre- sently, and I'll see to have a little bit of beef; and though iVa salt, we'll have plenty of vegetables to it, and some pratees, the seed of which 1 got from old Ireland ; and, in the mean time, we'll just have a little drop of something to drink peace and good neighbour- hood. Och, now, I do like to see a countryman ; and although 25 I »j'' ,i1 *!>.. <« ]94 TRAVELS IN you are not just a countryman neither, yet you are thii next door neighbour to it, and thnt cometi to the same thing." So saying, he 8et off to give the necessary orders about the dinner, and soon re- turned with the bottle, attended by the doctor of the cittft whom he introduced to mcus a countryman, " and as honest a fellow as ever crossed the great sea." While we were regaling ourselves, the doctor was seized with an ague fit. •• Och, now, doctor," says the landlord, " what's that for? you should leave the like o' that to me, who am a trained hand at it; it's I that can rap it away to some purpose when I begin." And he soon did begin to rap it away. He was seized with a violent fit. I fc!. for them at first ; but when I observed their Mro-begone countenances and odd gestures, I could not help comparing them, in my imagination, to Shakspeare's admirable simile of " Patience on a monument, smiling at grief," and was obliged to burst out into a loud laugh. The landlord, forgetting his ague fit, joined me. '< Bj my shoul," says he, " you're a pure one. I believe, now, if you were to be here beside me, with that merry foce of your own, you would do me more good than the doctor, with all his medicines. Doctor, why don't you shove that rascally ague about its business, and join me and the gentleman in the laugh ?" The doctor smiled, which was all the length he could go ; however, they soon got clear of their shake, and wc sat down together to dinner. " Aye, this is something like civilization," says I, putting my fork into the salt beef. " NoW, would you have expected that I could have mustered you up a little bit of stuff like that ?" said the landlord. " Now ate uM'ay heartily, and make yourself at home, and here's some pratecs for you, and some sweet pratees, and there's some beans and tur- nips ; take some o' that now, and some corn-bread, and some o' these cakes tliat was baked for you by the old woman, and ate heartily, and make your dinner, dear, for you see we don't want good fare, though we have got into a queer out o' th' woi'ld looking place." The officious kindness and good humour of thi,s agreeable Irish- man beguiled the time, and reconciled me to a detention of two days at this place, which would othei'wise have been almost iritoleruble; tor there was not a single external object to gratify the senses, the glorious effulgence of a bright sun excepted. The weather was clear and bcautii'ul. Wednesday, 15th.' Tlie Georgetown stage arrived, and the o- tlier mail from the northward ; so we got relieved from our confine- '~^*-^:*.i,.r' ■ ar^*.-'^ SOUTH CAltOlINA. 195 ment at 5 o'clock ; and, biddi' j adieu to the agreeable Irishman and his family, we set out in the stage. The country continued, as before, flat and sandy, six miles, to Black river, which we passed by a wooden bridge. Tliis bridge had been broken, which was the reason of the detention of the stage, And, though now repaired a little, it was still in a very shattered state. Black river rises near Camden, and running a south-east course, falls into the great Pedee, a little above Georgetown. The road continued pretty good, but the bridges were in very bad order, and we passed many of them ; for the country is here intersected with cret'ks in all directions. We reached Georgetown, 20 miles from Willton, at 8 o'clock in the evening. Here I was agreeably surprised to And a young gentleman who had been a considerable time clerk in the same house with me in Glasgow. We were mutually gratified at this meeting ; the more so when we learned that we should travel together to Charleston. Georgetofwn is situated at the confluence of Pedee and Black rivers, 12 miles from the sea, and contains about 2000 inhabitants, it is the only sea-port in South Carolina, except Charleston, and has a considerable trade, particularly in rice, of which it is said that the lands in its neighbourhood produce 30,000 tierces annually. Tiie houses are mostly built of wood, and are but indifferent. The principal public buildings are a court-house, jail, an episcopal church, a presbyterian church, one for baptists, one for method' ists, and a flourishing academy. The situation is unhealthy in the fall, but the winters are mild and pleasant. Thursday, }6th, we left Georgetown at 3 o'clock in the morn- ing, and travelled through a level, sandy soil, about 13 miles, when we passed the north branch of the Sontee. From thence there is a very muddy swamp, through which there is a causeway. But causeways here are entirely different from what they are in Britain. I naturally expected to find a pavement of stones, when the term was made use of; instead of which, I found them to con-^ sist of pieces of wood laid across the road, with a little space be- tween them, which is filled up with earth and brusli-woo<1 f but this soon wears uway, when the road becomes exceedingly rougli. Over this we had to travel, Joltf jolt, jolt, jolt, for two miles, when we passed the sc .ith branch of the Santce, and had a good Icvol road. .«*-: 1! 'I !: 'f •u<. f' I ■ ■'I 196 TRAVEU IM SantM i« die largest river in Soutli Carolina, and it formed hy two very large streams, the Congeree and Wateree, in the interior of the countr}'. Thence running upwards of 100 miles, in an cast- south-east direction, it divides about 5 miles above where we cross* cd it, and falls into the Atlantic Ocean by two channels not fur apart. The Wateree rises at the foot of the mountains in North Carolina, where it is denominated the Catawba, and, pursuing a south-east course, is joined by many tributary streams, and fornib a junction with the Congeree, upwards of 200 miles from its source. The Congeree rises alKO in North Carolina, within a few miles of the Catawba, and pursues a south-east course about 70 miles, when it crosses the state lino, and runs due south about 50 miles; it then runs south-east about 130 miles, and forms the junction aforesaid. In its passage through South Carolina, it receives a great many tributary streams, some of which are large rivers, par- ticularly the Tyger, Enncree, and Reedy rivers. Thirty miles from Georgetown, we stopped for dinner, where we had a view of the Atlantic Ocean ; and this was several times repeated in our journey onward. There was no other variety, for the country is one continued sand flat, vith drifting sand and pine trees. But the weather was delightful. We reached Charleston at 6 o'clock in the evening. CHAPTER XL. Charleston. ',ii A.S it was of importance to make some arrangements at Charles* ton, I wrote to Savannah, and in the interim had a few days to spend with my friends. ^ , On the evening of the 20th of October, I was invited by a friend :'s with that view, since they have been in power." He rqilicd, very dogmati- cally, that I ilid not seem to understand it; — the men were ruining the country; he was Nurc of it ; he saw it very clearly. lie wuit a jolly, good-looking man, with a drab coat, and a while hut; and I supposed him to be a doctor of medicine, and an American. Rut I was surprised at his violence, and his animosity to the whig party ; for it was generally understoml that they were much more ifavourably disposed towards America than their predecessors. When he had expressed his hentinients, I adverted to that favour- able circumslance, and stated, that having been very lately in the country, I had paid a good deal of nttentiun to public affairs, and was pretty well acquainted with the policy of the ministry ; so that I <)up;Iit to understand the subject at least as well as those who lived 3000 miles distant ; and if he would give mc leave, I would state a few particulars, which lie would fmd to be highly in favour of the present administration. " You arc entirely mistaken," said he; " people who live here can form a much better judgment on the conduct of the British government than those who arc on the spot But what d'ye propose to tell me ? can you mention a single instance in which they departed from the policy of Mr. Pitt ? Can you mention one ? I defy you to mention one." I instanced the attempt to give peace to their country ; to restore religious freedom to the Uoman catholics ; to conciliate foreign powers; but, above all, to put an end to tlie traffic in human Jlesh. He passed over all these circumstances except the last, and, fixing on it, " But Mr. Pitt," says he, " advocated the abolition as well ai Fox." " He did so," said I, " but in a very different manner, and with a very dif- ferent effect." " And I think the worse of him for so doing," said he; " there, I think, he was an enemy to his country I" " I un- derstood," said I, " that you approved of the measures of Mr. Pitt." " And so I did." " Well, then, in supporting the abolition, was he an enemy to his country /"" " No," said he, " I don't think so; fori believe he was not sincere." " Not sincere I" said I. " Sir, you place Mr. Pitt's memory in a very extraordinary point of view. If he was not sincere, he was a consummate hypocrite. If he was sincere, then, according to your opinion, he was an ene- my to his country." — " Ay, but there may be cases of expediency," said he. " Cases of expediency I" said I. " Sir, truth is simplf <.* I \ ■l ' ^' ^ K ■til I * 198 YfcdVfeM IK ili if V i'\ [ And honout-ablc, and requires no expedients. Falsehood is base and detestable, and all the expedients in the world will not dis- guise it. — Besides, to apply cases of expediency to such a momen- tous concern as the slave trade, is monstrous. — The laws of morality require that we should do to our neighboars as we would be done by ; hil|nanity enforces it — Christianity" 1 was going to say en- Joins it ; but our roads lay different, and we parted. " You should not have 'been so severe upon the doctor," observed my friend. •' who is he ?" said I. — 1 was astonished, and the reader will be astonished, to learn, that this approver of expedients — th's sup< porter of the measures of Mr. Pitt — this advocate of the slave trade, wns a minister of the gospel of Christ ! and was sent out to Charleston on the recommendation of the late Dr. Blair of Edin- burgh. I was variously employed in Charleston until the 21st, by which time I had got all my arrangements completed, when, having no letter from Savannah, I became exceedingly impatient to be gone. I accordingly took my passage by the mail stage, and, as it was to start at three o'clock in the morning, I went to sleep in the stage-housd. I was seized with a sliglu fever during the night, and when th^ departure of the stage was announced, I found it was out of my power to proceed. I got very anxious, and sent for a doctor, who prescribed some medicine, and I believe gave me a very im- proper dose, to which, principally, I attribute a severe stomach complaint with which I was afterwards afflicted. In this situation I was greatly assisted by a yoang Irishman, who came to lodge at the same house. He examined into my situ- ation, told me he had been served in the same way at New Or- leans, and prescribed some medicine to counteract the effect of the other, which was successful, and in all probability saved my life. Duriiig my confinement there was a remarkable change of wea- ther; the thermometer fell suddenly from 75° to 48". 1 was told that such changes were very common there, in the spring and fall. Charleston is elegiantly situated on a point of land at the confluence of Cooper and Ashley rivers, which form the harbour, one of the most convenient in the United States. The ground on which the city is built is low, but it is open to the sea breeze, and is, upon the whole, one of the most eligible situations in the low country. The plan erf" the city is regular, the streets crossing ilsehood is base Id will not di»- a such a moinen- • laws of mornlity c would be done ; going to say en- l. « You should !rved my friend. e reader will be dients — th's sup- cate of the slave id was sent out to r. Blair of Edin- [ie21st, by which when, having no atient to be gone, e, and, as it was nt to sleep in the it, and when thi nd it was out of sent for a doctor, e me a very im- severe stomach young Irishman, ined into my »itu- B way at New Or- ct the effect of the ty saved my life, le change of wea- 48". 1 was told he spring and fall. It of land at the bnn the harbour, ites. The ground to the sea breeze, situations in the le streets crossing SODTH CAROLINA. |99 «ach other at right angles ; but many of them arc too narrow. The houses are partly built of brick, and partly of wood ; and many of them are elegant. They are about 5000 in number, and the city contains about 24,000 inhabitants, of whom nearly one half are slaves. The public buildings are a court-house, exchange, college, armoury, three banks, 18 places of public worship, alms- house, orphans-housc; &c. The markets are kept in pretty good order, but provisions are dear, and are not so good as in the northern cities. There are few manufactures at Charleston, but there is a very active commerce, particularly in the winter sea- son ; and vast quantities of shipping are constantly arriving and departing, which keeps the city very lively. The principal fo- reign trade is to Europe and the West Indies ; of which Britain occupies a large share, and a considerable portion is appropriated to Glasgow. 7'he great articles for export are cotton and rice, particularly the former; and the imports consist of East and West India goods, groceries, and British manufactures. Besides this, there is a very extensive trade to the northern states, in which many regular packets are employed. The citizens are es- teemed hospitable and polite, of which I found many instances. They are mostly all dressed in British manufactures, so that the cultivation of this trade is an object of consiilcrable importance to that country. A more than ordinary proportion of the popula- tion of Charleston is blacks, occasioned by the circumstance of its being the only port in the United States in which they can be imported ; but it is supposed this branch will not long continue. — From the light of reason, of philosophy, and of religion, that is every where shining around us, may we not hope that the time will soon arrive when man will no more deal deceitfully vith his fellow, but justice, and righteousness, and n)ercy, will •xtend over all the earth ? '. , CHAPTER XLI. ' ■ *■ South Caroliria, This state; is situated between north latitude 32° 6' and 35", and west longitude 1" 80' and 6® 25'. Its extreme length from east to west is 236, and breadth from north to south 210 milos: and it '\ 'A \1 • r^ •-' -• v*«.^'"f ■ soo SOUTH Carolina. If , they were joined by ISO highlanders from Scotland, and 170 Germans. Georgia suffered severely in the struggle for inde- pendence, and was frequently the seat of war. The state consti- tution was adopted in 1780. Georgia now sends two senators and four representatives to congress. The state is divided into 24 counties, and these compose two judiciary districtSr The population, by the census of 1800, was 102,987 free persons, and 59,697 slaves, making a total of 162,684, being somewhat more than 3 to the square mile. There are but few towns in Georgia. Savannah and Augusta have been noticed. The others are mostly situated on the waters. Besides Savannah and Augusta, there is, on the Savannah river, a little town called Petersburg ; and in the interior, between the Savannah and Ogeeche, is Washington. Both these are thriving places. On the great Ogeeche, there are, besides Louisville, Sparta and Greensburg. . On the Altamaha and its waters, Daiien^ a new seaport, Mil- LEDGEviLLE, the new seat of government, and AthenSy the seat of a college. v •- . On St. Mary's river is the town of 5/. Mary^Sy ut the southern extremity of the state. The agriculture and produce of the state are nearly similar to " those of South Carolina. A great degree of attention has been paid, in Georgia, to edu- cation ; and very considerable funds have been appropriated to the support of it. The college at Athens is amply endowed, and pro- vision is made for establishing and keeping up an academy in every '/ V. GIOMU; S09 t the southern county in the itate. In the towns, there are very good common schools; bat the state is yet defective as to the establishment of these most nseful seminaries throughout the country. It should be mentioned, however, that in this, and all the southern stater, the population is too thin to admit of tlie establishment of schools upon the plan of the townships of the northern states, or the parishes in Scotland. By looking at the census, it will be seen, that in this state, for example, a township of six miles square, or 86 square ntiles, only contains about 1 12 persons ; from which if we deduct the proportion of black people, it leaves only 75 ; and this number would not be sufficient to support a school. On the other hand, there is much waste land, and those districts that are settled up, often contain much more than this proportion; sometimes, indeed, n sufficient number for the purpose mentioned. Whenever that is the case, a school should be established. ' > Bcfortf laking leave of this subject, I may notice, that the best plan of establishing country schools, probably, is to appropriate a public fund equal to one-ha^ of wliat may be considered a reason- able salary to the teacher, and let him depend on his class for the other haltl This appears to be a happy medium between the plan of allowing the tcadier to depend wholly on his class, and that of pro- viding a public fund for the whole of the salary. In the one case, the tcaclier \f not sufficiently independent ; in the other, education, by being made too cheap, is not sufficiently prized. In the way point- ed out, the independence of the teacher is in part secured, and the dependence on a contingency for the remainder has a tendency to stimulate both teacher and pupib to exertion. In all cases, provision should be made, that the children of the poor may be taught gratis. Good education is a blessing of ines- timable value to a community, and should be within the reach of every member. The constitution declares, that ** arts and sciences shall be pro- moted, in onis or more seminaries of learning ; and the legislature shall give such further donations and privileges to those already estab- lished, as may be necessary to secure the objects of their institution." On Uie subject of religion, it is declared, that ** no person with- in the state ^hall, upon any pretence, be deprived of the inesti- mable privilege of worshipping God in a manner agreeable to his own conscience nor be compelled to attend any place of worship, contrary to his own faith and judgment; nor shall he ever be 27 ^ f ■» tf *»^ 1 210 TRAVBLB ON obliged td pay tythcn, taxes, cir any other rates, ibr the building or re|)airiiig any place of worship, or lor the maintenance of any minister or miiiistry, contrary to what he bclicvc» to be right, or hath engaged to do. No rc^ligions society shall ever be established jn this state in preterence to any other: nor shall any person bo denied the enjoyment of any civil right, merely on account of re- ligious principles." The civil government is vested in an assembly, consisting of • senate and house of representatives, a governor, and a judiciary. I'hc assembly are elected annually, and all free white persons, who are of nnfc, and who have paid taxes, have a vote. Tlie governor is ap|)oitited for two yenrti, by the legislature. The judg^ are elected by the legislature for three years. I i ■^' ' * CHAPTEH XLIV. * Savannahy — Ships of naiy — Livcrpovl. StJNDAY, 12th April, 1807. The period for my leaving Sa- viinnah being arrived, I engaged a passngo by the Eliza, Captain Starks, and this morning went on board ot Five Fathom Hole, at nine o'clock. The other passengers were two gentlemen, na- tivcs of Scotland, settled as merchants in Savannah : one gentle- man, a native of Scotland, who had been resident in Savannah, and was proceeding to Liveq^ool to settle there ; an English gen- tleman, settled as a merchant in the upper country ; and a young gentleman from South Carolina, who was going over to get his education in England. * Every thing being prepared, the ship weighed, and proceeded down the river with a fair but light breeze ; but on reaching Four Mile Point, n few miles below, the wind veered about to the south- east, and we were obliged to come to anchor, where we lay the remaining part of the day, and all the next night, tortured by musquetocs. Monday, 13th. The wind having come round to the north- west, and blowing a fine breeze, we weighed anchor at 10 o'clock, and glided down the river very swiftly. At half past eleven we were up with tlic light-house, and at twelve we passed the bar, and dichargcd the pilot "T"V..^«-#sfc. '' TRI ATLANTIC OC-'^K; til ' V^e had now a delightful breeze ; and the Eliza, being one of the fastest Miling Hliips in America, and well trimmed, darted through the water with /^reat rapidity. And Captain Storks the commander, did her every jdstite ; to UMe hiw own iihruac, ho Aid crack on the mtmlin. We seldom mnde 1cm than 150 niiles a day, and one day wc had thr rcmarkiihir run of 259 miles. In ten days we were past the hanks of N^^wfuundhind, ofler whidi lye had a series of north-east wttuU, wlucli kefif us too much to the southward, but, as the Eli/a fiailc>d remarkably VffiW upon the wind, wc still made pretty goixl progress. On the 27lh of A|>ril, we discovered a \emtA to windward bear- ing right down upon us, under French culoui*s. On getting sut- ficiently near, she firetl a gun ahead, and we hove to, not a little apprehensive of the result. On coming along side, the captain hailed us in broken English, and said he would send a boat a- bonrd pour chearche our papicres. A boot was accorilingly dis. patched, and the lieutenant, a young Scotsman, jumping aboard, told us that the vessel was the Rattier sloop of war, captain Augu- 2iez, and that they used the French flag and language for a decoy. We were delighted with this account, treated the olficer with u glass of our befrt Madeira; and he, having examined our papers and found every thing correct, told us we might make sail as soon OS we observed the signal from the vessel ; so saying, he jum|ied into the boat. On reaching the ship, he again returned with the captain's compliments, who, having his lady and two children aboard, requested that we would sell them some sweet flour and biscuit. We immediately made up an assortment of these articles, and some others, which the captain sent with a return of his com- pliments; and receiving the signal, wc made sail, and parted with mutual good wishes. The northerly winds still continued, and the weather was very wet and cold ; but we made pretty good progress, and, by the 4th of May, we were within a few days' sail of Cape Clear, when we were brought to and boarded by the Dryade frigate, of 44 guns and 2fi0 men, captain Drummond commander. The board- ing ofiicer here was also a Scotsman, and, like the otlier, behaved with great politeness. He told us they had been one of the convoy to the West In- dia fleet, as far as the latitude of SO'' ; that they hod been out five weeks, and were to cruize between the Channel and Western ««:=;;''_3»a - "» A .»^;.,.jm_^ _^, ^^ M tl4 TIATBU OM ItUuids two mpntbfl. Hit reported their longitude to be 9i^ M by the chronometer. Haring put a quantity of letters on board for EIngland, he told us we might set sail as soon as they made the signal. - . - . As we were now drawing near our native shores, and antici* p«ting a happy meeting with our friends, we were all in good spirit and had various theatrical representations in the style of the grand sultan and his faithful slave Sliacabac, which great- ly astonished and amused the ship's company. We had also a series of moral regulations, which laid a pretty severe penalty on swearing. I was appointed the executor of this branch of the law ; but I sometimes found a difficulty in putting it into execu- tion, particularly with our Liverpool merchant, who, when we reached the Channel, told us flatly, that, being now in the Brit- ish king's dominions, he would swear if we were all d— d on't. As the gentleman was under the influence of the crown, we were e'en obliged to submit to royal authority, and the fines were thenceforth remitted. We passed Cape Clear on the 10th, and had a fine view of the Irish coast, irom the ci^ to the Old Head of Kinsale. As we glided along with a fair wind, a little pilot boat came ofFfirom the ■ land to meet us, and try to persuade us, no doubt, that there ~ would be a gfeat big storm, and tlia«; we must take a pilot and run in for the coast. But the Eliza outsailed him, and he j^>ll a little astern. He had all his canvass hoisted to the breeze, but without effect. " By J o , you sail d d sharp, captain!" 'said he. ♦* Pretty well," said the captain. " Now, if you would only back your miseen-sail a bit, I would come aboard and tell you nil about the land." " Thank you, thank you," said the captain, *« but I happen to know something about it already." « Then -you may go to the mischief with yourself," exclaimed faddy; ** you'll be catched in a great big storm to-night, and the d-^1 make matter." So saying, he put about »nd stood ^ward the coast. % On the llth we passed the Cove of Cork, which presents from .>'ieaa most picturesque view. On die 12th, we passed the- curious insulated rock, well known to seamen by the mqne of Tusixr, Kext morning we were round Skerries-light, when we were en- veloped in a fog so thick that we were obliged to lie to. Here we I ound the brig Luoy from Savannah, in the same Aituation. .3he ^. • •i I;*'' I ^ ' i : iilks and and proceeded ) the populace, > ribbons from 'persons carry- id labels pasted 2ry." " Church ig to the royal sflke me;" and )f the members, n, te&tifiecl their by flourishes of frail sisterhood, ay in green and scoe, and swear- ntr and the two and we adjourn- a crowd of mot- nversatlon; when ege of a freeman rs servitude to a fOT members of opulent and res- re totally exclud- is confined to a for exercising its ecisive proof bc- o, whiles he plain- xhibited, with no colled his livery, were subjects on i>n. 1 amafnud It description. The elective franchise is a most sacred tru8t,and ought to be ex- ercised with great circumspection, inasmuch as it is the very safe- guard of the liberties of a nation. Hence, those entrusted with it should be carefully informed of their duties as well as rights ; and hence the importance of dilTusing knowledge among the mass of the people* They constitute the wealth and strength of a nation : they are generally honest in intention ; but knowledge alone can regu- late their actions so as to produce a beneficial result in practice. Unfortunately, however, a strong prejudice exists among many who have received a liberal education themselves, against any plan hav- ing for its object the general diffusion of that inestimable blessing; and we may, of course, expect that those who object to their fellow men participating with them in knowledge, will also object to their participating with them in power. In such a state of society, wher- ever power may partially extend to the mass of the people, as in the case before us, we may expect to see it abused. But in this enlight- ened period of the world, we may hope soon to see both knowledge and power generally diffused among mankind, and that a period of politic]|l jealousy and discord will be succeeded by a happy period of ''peace on earth and good will among men." CHAPTER XLVL • . ■ ■ '' • ■ -■ J- ' ' >► ; Liverpool^ — Lancastery-—Carlislef — Glasgafao* May 1 9th. I set out for Glasgow, accompanied by one of our passengers, whose connexions lived in that city. The conveyance from hence to Carlisle was by what is called the heavy or long coach, and it took two days to perform the journey, 124 miles. ^ . We started at 8 or 9 o'clock in the morning, and passing through Ormskirk and Preston, reached Lancaster, 55 miles from Liverpool, where we stopped for dinner. The weather was agreeable; the country, in all that distance, is well cultivated, exhibiting a very pretty appearance. Ormskirk is a place of little consequence ; but Preston has a population of 14>,000, and carries on manufactures,^ particularly in cotton, to a great extent. ^, ^ Lancaster is the county town, handsomely situated at the mouth < of the river Lone,, and contains about 8000 inhabitants. It has con- siderable commerce, but very little to America ; its chief manu- 28 ■Ji « •■V 'i . • ■:H >!'tl * u Hit TKATStS llf foctures being sall-cl6tb, furniture, hardware, candles, &c. The »» . One of our passengers was a shipping-merchant from London, and he expressed his disapprobation of the late ministry, in very severe terms, for not shutting up the carrying trade of the Ameri- cans. My fellow-traveller and I. endeavoured to reason with him, and to point out the importance of the American trade to Britain, and the injustice that it would be to stop it : but this man of com- merce would listen to no reason, and would bend to no maxims of justice. " We are able to caiTy on tlie whole trade of the world," said he, " and we should have it. Our fleets are all-powerful, and we should command it." He seemed to forget, that there are al> ways two at a bargain-making; and that no nation can carry on a foreign trade alone. Kendal is beautifully situated in a fine healthy country, and the women have cheeks like roses. It is a pretty large town, and has considerable manufactories of cottons, woollens, stockings, hats, &c. ; some of which are calculated for the American trade. May 20th. We set out at 7 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through a rough, hilly countr}', called Shap-Fells, 27 miles, to Penrith. The country is but thinly inhabited in this district, and the ^ inhabitants seem to be mostly employed in raising sheep and geese. Penrith is a neat little place, containing about 3000 people. The counti-y to the eastward is high and barren, but it is fertile to the westward, and abounds in thriving farms. The country im- proves towards Carlisle, 18 miles distant, round which it is culti- vated, like a garden. Having reached Carlisle about 1 o'clock, we proposed going on to Glasgow by the London mail, expected in half an hour, and, in tiie mean time, we took a walk through th^ town. Carlisle is prettily situated, and contains a population of 10,000. It is favoura^. situated for carrying on manu&ct'.ros, which arc in * uil 'improved it^tc, and consist of cotton-spiniur.g and weaving; lu-iiiting and dying; coarse linens and Osnaburghs; hats, hosier}', '1 ■r.'f ^ , I-.. / ENGtAKD. . 1119 Ictther, ropes, and several kind* of wooUoii. Some of the articles, particularly printed calicoes, are in high repute. On the arrival of the mail stage, we found all the inside places taken, and v/e had no alternative but to wait another day, or take outside places. The latter was resolved on ; and, having mounted on the top, the coach drove on. We anticipated that we would suffer a little from the cold, albeit it was late in May, but we were sure that if all kept well, we could see our friends by 7 o'clock in the morning. ;.» « r.yw • r . Ten miles from Carlisle, we passed through Longtown, a small place on the confines of England ; and a little beyond ' this we crossed a little stream, and hailed ■ ' '* '.'•' •f. '"••■■■'• "Old ScoUq, our dear, our native soiU" , ^ ..^ ,^ ., ■ *-■■■-, Here we had a very extensive view. Solway firth, a very large in- let from the Irish sea, was 'on our right; and beyond it, the Cum- berland mountains, some of them of great magnitude. To the west, north-west, and north, we saw 50 or 60 miles into the in- terior of Scotland ; and a fine champaign country lay on our rear towards Carlisle. Four miles from hence is the village of Gretna Green, celebrat- ed for the coupling blacksmith who lives in it. The laws of mar- riage in Scotland are very simple. If two persons agree to marry, they can carry their intention into effect by declaring their union before witnesses; and this, though contrary to the rules of the church, and to the general practice of the country, constitutes a legal marri^. It is also applicable to the natives of South Britain when they come to the north ; on which account, it fretjuently happens, that when a gentleman and lady in England fall in love, and cannot live without one -another, while they are so unfortunate as not to be able obtain the consent of their friends, they set off on a matrimonial trip to Scotland ; and this being the nearest vil- lage, on one of the great roads, such marriages arc frequently solemnized here. The person who acts as parson on the occasion, but who, in truth, is only, along with one or two more, a witness to the declaration, is called a coupling blacksmith ; and the whole cir- cumstance has given rise to a humorous farce, called Gretna Green. The road beyond this place was very rough, but it was dr}'. We hod a fine evening; but towards night it become very cold. We passed Locherby, a small place, and reached Moffat, fifty I Ml 4 V I /I m .^-JliY-i'" / [ \ i\ \ " 2SP TIUVEI.I IN miles from Carlisle, to supper. This is a little place among the hills* and only merits notice as the stopping^place of the siages, on the way to and from England. There are some good medicinal springs in its neighbourhood. Leaving Moffat, wchad to cross a large chain of hills; but I can give no particular account of the configuration of the country ; for, though I have often passed through it, it has always been in the night. The night was now very cold ; but a gentleman left the mail at Moffat, and we engaged his seat; so wc changed guard, and took, as the sailors call it, " spell and spell about" of the inside. In this vay we passed the sources of the Clyde, and the Lead hills to the right, and journeyed onward at a good pace. As I was taking my outside station, about day*light, I heard a dialogue be- tween the two drivers in broad Scots, being the fin>t 1 had heard for 14 months ; and, such is the effect of habit, that, although I considered myself a sort of adept at the Scottish language, and had frequently practised it, this had a surprising effect upon my ear. It appeared more broad than any thing I had ever heard be- fore. " A, Johnny, min," says the one, " I canna get this thing fixt." « Can ye no T* said the other ; « what ails't?" «* Goth, I dinna ken weel ; but it winnadraw through wi' me." « Ye'U bet- ter cut it." " Na, I'll no fash to do that yet ; I'll tak my teeth till't." I could not see what they were about; but they soon got it to rights, whatever it was, and wc drove on. About sun-rise, wc reached the village of Hamilton, the seat of one of the most ancient families of Scotland. It is 1 1 miles from Glasgow, on the river Clyde, in a fine fertile valley, and is noted for raising fruit. A great many muslin weavers, who work for the manufacturers of Glasgow, live at this place, Indeed, they are scattered all over the country. We passed Clyde iron-works, the second in extent in Scotland, and reached Glasgow at 7 o'clock, when I had a joyful meeting with my friends, after an absence of nearly 15 months. »v. „. . '.r.^*'K-;:-;'v r''.-'^ -. J .;» , .;«- ^-i, ■ » *--• ■ *., A-f ■ ■-■ , I. ' ■ ' .^' V.'--" 1/ .•4ii I I t,)' MU'iaui if;w:'ii BNGLANII. CHAPTER XLVII. •V. <■ t21 GlasgaWt-^Manchester^ — LeetUf— Edinburgh, '' I COI^TINUED in Glasgow until the 19th of June, when, in prosecution of my commercial business, I let out for England. I took a passage by the mail coach, and tmvelled through Carlisle and Preston, to Manchester. The country from Preston to Man- chester is probably among the richest in England. The fields are well cultivated ; die houses are so close, that it looks like a conti- nued village; and tl.c quantity of machinery and bleach-fields that every where appears is immense. The road passes through Char- ley and Bolton, both manufacturing villages ; but the whole of their trade is subservient to Manchester, which may be consider- ed as the great manufacturing capital of all England. The ditt- tance from Preston to Manchester is 36 miles. From Manchester I found it necessary to go to Liverpool, dis- tant S6 miles. The road passes through a rich, well-cultivated, level country, in which are two considerable villages, Warrington and Prcscott. The country becomes more sterile towatds Liver- pool ; but tliis part of it is beautified by many seats, the proper^ of the Liverpool merchants. Among the number is Gilead Hall^ the seat of Dr. Solomon, of Balm of Gilead memon/i one oCthe most beautiful buildings in England. My commercial firiend in Liverpool being a prompt man of business, I made an arrangement with him, in the course of a few hours, to my entire satisfactipn ; and immediately returned to Manchester. From the ample assistance afforded me by my friends, I was able to expedite my business in this place with great cele- rity, and I had an excellent opportunity of observing the very ex- tended manufactures and commerce of this place, and their t^pUt cation to the American trade. Manchester, though it ranks only as a village is a place of great antiquity, a town having been raised hore by the Roman*, iu tlie 97th year of the Christian aera, and is now, in point of, populatioi;, the second town in England; — ^in manu&ctures dcf- cidcdly the first. The streets are about 600 m number, and some. of them spacious; but a great many are too narrow, and the town is, upon the whole, very irregular. The number of houset if 11 i ..)| 1^^ '' ^r^,^^■ ■'-■•■ ioiis -'" // 4 tt22 T]UVKL8 III computed at upwards of 12,000, and the inhabltanti amount to 84,020. Manufactures have been established at this place It^r upwards of 200 years, and have been continually cncreasing ; but tlic cncrease since the application of machinery, on an extended scale, to the cotton trade, and particularly since the introduction of Bolton and Watt's improved steam engine, exceeds all former example, in any place or any country. There are a vast number of cotton mills erected in the town, and many of them employ upwards of 1000 hands. The quantity of raw material consumed annually in this branch, is immense, and a bare enumeration of the articles it is manufactured into, would fill a number of pages. Those most calculated for the American trade are fustians, waistcoat- ii^s, shirtings, cambrics, dimities, painted callicoes, nankeens, jeans, checks, ginghams, chambrays, table napery, stockings, gloves, braces, bed-quilts, &c. &c. Of other articles there are also extensive and important manufactures, such as hats, silks, tapes, fringes, laces, &c. ; and Manchester is a g«:ueral market for the manufactures of the whole ceuntr}', particubfiy every de- scription of woollens. From Manchester I travelled to Bury, nine miles, through an uneven, bat fertile and well-cultivated country. The principal manufactures here are woollens, particularly plains, coatings, blan- kets, and flannels. From Bury to Rochdale is 6 miles, >'bff country nearly the same as the last mentioned. Here are considerable manufactures, par- ticularly flannels of a very excellent quality. From Rochdale to Halifax is 17 miles, partly through an ex- tensive moor; and the whole country is hilly, some of it romantic At Halifax there are very extensive manufactures of woollens, particularly of broad and narrow cloths. From Halifax to Leeds is 18 miles, through a hilly country, of which the soil improves towards the latter. Leeds is beautifully situated in a very fertile countr}', and is the greatest town in ' England for the woollen manufactures. The BBoet impcHtant manufactures for America are broad and narrow cloths, flannels, serges, cassimeres, callimancoes, durants, bom- haaxtnt, bombazetts, blankets, &c. The population is upwards of 53,000, and the town abounds in wealth. The country around ii fertile and beautiful. . . < - I amount to r upwards of ; the cncrease scale, to the )n of Bolton ner example, iber of cotton ^ upwards of ned annually of the articles ages. Those ns, waistcoat- es, nankeens, ry, stockings, lies there are as hats, silks, rhicral market sfly every de- ^ through an The principal coatings, blon- icarly the same ifactures, par- irough an ex- I of it romantic of woollens, Illy country, of |untr}', and is factdres. The and narrow I durants, bom- Ion is upwards Isonntry around From this pUce I paned about 12 miles, through n pretty well-settled country, but partly moor, to the great London i oad* with a view of taking my })assage for Glasgow by the London mail. When the mail came forward, it was full, and I was disap- pointed ; but a coach passed soon after for Newcastle, and being informed that the line was continued from thence to Edinburgh, I availed myself of that conveyance. It was about 1 1 o'clock at night when we set out, and, travel- ling all night, we passed through Northallerton, about SO milca from where we started, at day-light next morning. Tlie country, I was informed, is pretty fertile and well cultivated. From Northallerton to Durham is about 27 miles, through • pretty fertile country, and Durham, the capital of the county of the same name, is beautifully situated on the river Wear, sur- rounded by fertile and well cultivated fields. From Durham to Newcastle is 16 miles, partly through fertile fields, but the soil becomes worse towards Newcastle, and in that neighbourhood the country abounds with coal mines. We hod firequent and extensive view of the German Ocean by the way, and I could not help contrasting the breadtli of the country, not much more than a day's jouniey, with the extended country which I had lately left Ought not Britain, exclaimed I mentally, to he proud of having settled America, to conciliate the affections of her growing population, and to cultivate a good understanding '/ Newcastle is situated on tlie river Tyne, and is large and popu- lous, but irregular, and not very clean ; it is chiefly remarkable for its great coal trade, the greater part of the supply of the English metropolis being derived from it Here I stoj^ied all night, and started by the coach for Edin- burgh next morning, at 5 o'clock. At 14 miles from Newcastle, we reached Morpeth, an inconsiderable town, and, 19 miles fur- ther, we reached Alnwick, the seat of the earl of Northumberland. The castle is beautifully situated on an eminence, and it is sur- rounded by a high wall at a distance, which encloses, I presume, nearly 300 acres of ground, all laid out for grazing. The whole has a most magnificent appearance. From Alnwick to Berwick is 27 miles. In the whole distance from Newcastle to Berwick, the country presents a pretty uniform appearance. The soil, ex- cept at some particular places, is rather thin. There are high luads to the west, and to the east is the German ocean, along l\ y/ f! t94t • . ^VEL« n which the road runt within a few miles the whole way. To* Itrardi Berwick, it it almoit cloae nlcng shore. )h»<^ . Berwick is situated on the Tweed, near the bonier of Scotland, and is a pretty populous, but irregularly built town, and carries on considerable manufactures. But it is chiefly remarkable for the salmon fisheries, which are very extensive, and employ a num- ber of small vessels in the London trade, called Berwick smacks. A few miles from Berwick, we passed the Scottish border, at which a house wa^ pointed out, where matrimonial contracts are ^ade on the same principle as at Oretna Orecn. After passing this place, the road leaves the sea-coaftt, and crosses the country through elevated lands, but apparently pretty fertile, and under excellent cultivation; and this continues to Dunbar, toward which the road approaches tlie coast of the Firth of Forth. Dunbar is a pretty large and ancient town, finely situated on the Forth, from whence there is an elegant view of the singular rock called the Bass, North-Berwick Law, the coasts of the firth, and the interior of the county of Fife. It is 11 miles from Ber- wick to Haddington, a considerable place, and 1 6 miles more to Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. In all this distance the soil is excellent, aud the agriculture in the most improved state. We reached Edinburgh at 10 o'clock at night, having travellej this day 120 miles. Edinburgh is, without exception, the most beautiful city that I have yet seen. Its situation is singular. To the eastward of the city is a conical hill, called Arthur's Seat : its base is probably a- bout half a mile in diameter, and it is 700 feet high. To the north- west of this is a ridge of hills called Salisbury Craigs, probably a- bout one third of a mile in length, and about 350 feet high, having a steep acclivity on the west, which overhangs the eastern part of the city. Near the foot of these the city commences, and from thence the High-street runs due west about a mile, rising at an an- gle of about 10 degrees from the horizon, and at its extremity is terminated by the Castle, .on a rock, from whence there is a perpen- dicular descent of about 350 feet. This ridge is only of sufficient breadth on the top to form the street, from whence it immediately falls by a steep descent on both sides, and nearly to a level with the foot of the High-street. To the south, a narrow street called the Cowgate, runs in the hollow, and, beyond it, the ground again im- mediately rises, and spreads cut into auopcn plain, on which standff IcdTiAm 225 way. To* of Scotland, , and carries mnrkablc for iploy a num- wick smacki. ih border, at contracts arc \fter passing I the country >, and under nbar, toward Forth. ly situated on i' the singular ,U oC the firrfi, les from Ber- 16 miles more s distance the mproved state, iving travelled the south part of the town. Tho hollow to the north Is called the North Loch, becnusc it was once filled with water ; but it is now drained ; and to the north of it the ground rises, and spreads out into a fine plain, on which the New Town is built. To the east of ti lo New Town there is a smaller hill called Calton Hill, which is public property, and affords fine walks and most •- grecabic prospect*. - ' > <* t ■ Tho Old Towi s remarkable for its singular configuration, and lofty houses, some of them 14 stories high; and the New Town, whether we view it in regard to the elegance of its plan, or the regularity, symmetry, and beauty of its buildings, is beyond all comparison the most elegant city I ever saw. The Old and New Towns are connected by the North Biidgc, an elegant building, which crosses the North Loch ; and a fine street is continued across the High-street, and by the South Uridgc cross- es the Cowgate, aAd connects the south part with the north part. This bridge has elegant buildings on each side, except at the mid- dle, where they are interrupted by the Cowgate ; and here the view is as singular as can well be imagined : being elevated on the bridge, you see the busy inhabitants below, to the east and west, the whole length of the street. < , .» Lcith is considered as the port of Edinburgh, and is connected with it by a very broad avenue, nearly two miles long, called Leith Walk. The whole population of Edinburgh and Leith was, in 1801, 82,560. The whole adjacent country abounds in rich scenery, and well cultivated fields and gardens ; and from its peculiar configuration, it exhibits a greater variety of fine views than any other pluco I havo ever seen. . Edinburgh is the seat of the supreme.court, and the law has become a fashionable study among the nobility and gentry of Scotland ; the l^'reater part of whom have their winter residence in the city. This circumstance not only affords a permanent fund for the support of the city, but forms an assemblage of beauty and fashion rarely e- ({uallcd ; and the winter assemblies and fashionable parties have a brilliancy and splendour not to be found, probably, in any other part of the world. llie seminaries of education, and other literary and scientific in- I stitutions, are known and prized all over the world. As the city I draws its permanent support from laud, it has not its dependence 2.9 'S ■t^l ^1 926 TRAVELS IN on foreign commerce, like the manufacturing and commercial citfen Though the manufactures are considerable, they are mostly calcu- lated for internal trade. The state of society is, generally speaking, excellent. The peo- ple are well informed, frank, and generous. As for the ladies, they are elegant to a proverb ; those who have ever been on " Leith Walk in the gloaming," can bear witness to their " angelic forms," their " rosy complexions," and their " witching smiles." But as I might be accused of partiality for my fair countrywomen were I to speak my mind on this subject, I shall take my leave of the £- dinburgh ladies by addressing the younger part of them in the words of Robert Burns : .. ■♦' .... " God make ye guid as well as braw. And send ye lads in plenty." 1 left the capital of Scotland at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and reached Glasgow, 42 miles distant, a quarter before 10, which was pretty quick travelling. I have frequently heard it remarkeil that the Telegraph, by which I travelled, is under better regulatiom than any public coach in Scotland, except the Mail. In the first 10 or 12 miles of this journey the country is pretty rich; the next 14 miles it is cold and bleak, and but little cultivated : towards Glas- gow the soil ag«tin improves; but, generally speaking, the lands are much inferior to what they are in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh. -■■ ■ CHAPTER XLVIII. GlasgffWy — Stirling, — Oeiffl — Methven, — Perth. > Having completed my shipments, I hud now little else to da but wait the return, and of course could pay some attention to pub- lic matters. The plans of the new ministry soon began to develope themselves. One of the most successful engines which they had used to oust their predecessors was to charge them with want of e- nergy ; and it became necessary for them to support their character by adopting energetic measures. Accordingly a great big expedi- tion was prepared, with much solemnity and parade ; and hiiving looked about in all directions for an object to wreak the vengeance of the nation upon', they hit upon Denmark. Denmark was a neu' 1 commercial citiA >y are mostly calcu- xjellent. The peo- I for the ladies, they er been on " Leitfc >ir " angelic forms," ig smiles." But as luntry women were I my leave of the E- >art of them in the the afternoon, and «fore 10, which wm ard it remarkeil that er better regulation! ae Mail. In the first pretty rich ; the next ivated : towards Glas- jeaking, the lands are irhood of Edinburgh. )ev, — Peiih. \ now little else to do ome attention to pub- ion began to develope ■gines which they had them with want of e- upport their character ly a great big expedi- parade; and having wreak the vengeance Denmark was a ucu- Scotland; t827 tral and friendly power ; but that was of no importance,— they could there strike a blow with effect, and convince the world of the tre- mejidous power of Britain, and the energy of her ministers. Th« blow was struck — and a terrible blow it was for Denmark ; but it «'as more terrible still to Britain, — it laid her honour low in the dust, and pointed her out as the enemy of the civilized world. I dreaded that the next blow would be struck at America, — and BO it was ; but in a different form : it was a blow at neutral trade. The famous orders in council made their appearance on the 11th of November, 1807, and at one fell swoop prostrated the once flcur- ishing trade of Britain and America at the feet of Bonaparte. People of all ranks v/ere astonished at these proceedings of the cabinet. It was some time indeed before the nature of the orders in council was understood, such was the remarkable obscurity of the language in which they were drawn : and orders followed upon or- ders, for a month or six weeks, to explain them ; but their effects were soon felt. To me it was evident that the American people never would submit to them ; and I thought I had good reasons for forming that opinion. I had recently returned from America — I iiad ardently studied tlie genius and power of that people — I knew that their spirit of stern independence would never submit to be dic- tated to where they should carry their own goods in their own ves- sels — I calculated that they had power to do without British trade, if they were driven to it. I trembled for the result; and I wept by anticipation at the ruin of a business that I had organized with such labour, and in which all my capital and all my credit were embarked. But, a solitary individual, what could I do ? Those who wielded the power of the country had passed the law ; and it was the fiat of fate. There was still a faint glimmering of hope left that parliament might, in its wisdom, repeal the orders in council ; and judging it expedient to contribute my mite of knowledge to an illustrious and independent member of that honourable body, I wrote the letter in the Appendix, No. 2. In drawing up this letter 1 considered it my duty to give a short sketch of the view which my observations led me to take of the American character, not only as an act of gratitude for the kind hospitality of that people; but be- cause it was the fashion of the day, and supported by one of the most popular of the periodical writeis, to traduce and vilify the v country by every lying story that could be laid hold of. This letter was drawn up about the 20th of January, but it wac »j.»--"A.j.^; -..•-.«' ' r '# ■•■•V ■ 'll '"* Air *. -.«5*>„ S^ TRAVELS IN not sent off before the 27th) by which time we had the news of the first frqits of the orders in council — the American embargo ; and this brought matters, as far as I was concerned, to issue. I knew from my letters that our funds would be blocked up in Geor- gia; I could calculate upon no time for a return; so I made the best arrangement that I could devise, under existing circumstances, and resolved to wait with as much patience as I could for the result. Having completed this arrangement, I took a journey to see my relations in the east country. On the 12th of March, 1808, I left Glasgow by the stage for Stirling, distant 27 miles. The first 13 miles is through a pretty good country to the village of Cumbernauld, principally occupied by muftUn weavers. Two miles beyond this the road passes the Forth and Clyde canal, a work of great utility, by which there is a sloop navigation from one side of the island to the other. Four miles from thence there is an extensive printfield, after which the road passes through a dreary moor, till within two or three miles of Stirling, when the Carse commences, one of the most fertile ^ots in Scotland, StirUng is situated on the Forth, at the head of sloop navigation, and is a place of great antiquity, having been long the residence of the Scottish kings, and is distinguished in the history of the wars with England. It is situated on a hill, somewhat like Edinburgh, terminated by a castle, from whence there is one of the most magnificent views in Scotland. Stirling contains about 5200 people. vtrho ca:rry on considerable manufactures, of which carpctting is the chie£ From Stirling to Dumblane is six miles, and the road winds through a country as romantic as can well be imagined. It is the opening of the Ochill Hills, in which is the confluence of three eonsiderable rivers, the Forth, the Teith, and the Allan. Dumblane is i^tuated on the latter, and is a small place, abound- ing in little dirty houses, but ornamented with the remains of an old catliedral. From hence the road continues' along the north side of the tSheriif Moor, well known in Scottish history, 1 1 miles, when it winds to the northward, and proceeds through the Moor of Orchill, a very elevated country, from the summit ol which there is an extensive view, whence I could descry the seat of mj nativity, 20 miles distant. . ' . Passing Muthil, a small village, the country improves fur two SCOTLAND. 229 inilet to the banks of the river Erin, which we crossed by a good stone bridge, and thence ascended a pretty steep acclivity of halfl a mile, where, loftily situated on the brow of a hill, is the village of Crieff. This is but a small place, but it M'as interesting to me as being the country of my ancestors. I spent some little time among my relations, and then set forward for Mcthvcn, distant 1 1 miles. The eountry between Crieff and Methven is tolerably good, and a turn- pike road has lately been made, which renders travelling very plea- sant and expeditious. Having spent a few days at this place, I shall avail myself of the opportunity to introduce an account of my native parish, which will serve to illustrate the parish establishment of Scotland gene- rally. The village of Methven is situated six miles to the westward of Perth : the parish is bounded by Fowlis on the west and north ; by Moneidy and Redgorton on the east; and Tippermoor on the south. Its extreme length is about seven miles, and breadth threc» Its area is about 19 square miles, and its contents in acres 12,000. The surface is undulating, some part of it hilly, but not moun- tainous ; it is well supplied with rivulets and springs ; and the river Almond, a romantic stream, abounding in falls and mill -seats, runs along its whole northern boundary, a distance of six or seven miles. The soil is very unequal. About five square miles consist of moor, which is unfit for cultivation, but affords turf and heath for fuel, and some little gn'^mg. Two miles consist of moss, which is altogether unfit for any agricultural purpose, but affords excellent fuel, called therepeats. Two miles are in wood, called the wood of Methven. One mile is occupied with the policies of Meth- ven castle, and about as much with those of Balgowan. Of the eight remaining miles, one third may be reckoned rather poor, but the remainder is good fertile land. The whole parish is owned by two proprietors, thence called heritors. Colonel Smith, of Methven, has the largest portion, probably not less than three fourths, and the remainder belongs tq the celebrated general Graham, of Balgowan. There was until lately another propietor, who owned an estate called Tippermal- loch, consisting of about 700 acres of excellent land ; but not being entailed, it was sold, on bis demise, by his heirs, to Smith of Methven, fbrj£l7000. S , ':V ^. ^ A \ ,Ct' 230 TSAVBLS Iff The present population is 1280 males, and 1378 females, in afi 2653, being nearly 140 to 'the square mile; which is a great popu> lation, when we consider the small quantity of good land in the parish. The total number of families is 577 ; of these, 1 37 are em- ployed in agriculture; the remainder in trades and manufactures. The number of inhabited houses is 447, of which 149 are in the village of Methven. The number of families in the village is 243 ; 25 of whom arc employed in agriculture, the rest in manu- &ctures, trades, &c. The total number of inhabitants in the village is 950; of whom 100 are weavers, 18 shoemakers, 17 masons, 9 taylors, 10 wrights (carpenters,) 4 stocking-makers, 2 clock-makers, 2 butchers, and 7 store-keepers. The whole land in the parish being entailed, the farmers occupy their farms on rent from the proprietors ; and land lets at present from £1 10s. to £3 5s. steTling, annually, per Scots acre, which is about one fifth more than an English acre. The farn^s are gene- rally let on leases of 19 years. The legal provision for the minister of the parish consists of a house, called the majise ,- about 30 acres of land, called the gkbe ; and the remainder is paid by the heritors, who generally indemni- fy themselves by assessing it on the farmers to whom tiiey let the land. The whole of the minister's income in this parish, is about d£.30O. The average in Scotland, generally, may be reckoned about j£.200. In every parish there is what is called apatroHf who has the gift of presentation ; that is, when a vacancy takes place, he provides a candidate of his choice, and presents him to iJie people. If they vote for him, he is thenceforth minister of the parish ; if they are dissatisfied, he is settled as minister of the parish, whether they mil or not. In consequence of this law, a great schism took place in the church, and in almost every popu- lous parish there is a seceder meeting. In this parish nearly two thirds of the people are seceders. The schoolmaster is appointed by the heritors, and the legal provision in this parish is a house, school-house, and a garden. A small inpome arises from the office of session clerk ; and I be- lieve there are some little perquisites besides. The remainder of the income arises from the quarterly payments of such as go to school. It is now one shilling and six-pence per quarter, but in iny young days it was only one shilling. The seceders have some- times a schoolmaster, and sometimes not. The office is generally ^ ./" ■\ SCOnAnD. SSI >ma1e8, in all a great popu- [ land in the if 137 are em- manufactures. 49 are in the the village is rest in manu- bitants in the locmakers, 17 ing-makers, 2 irmers occupy lets at present )tsacre, which arn^s are gene- , - _ y h consists of a illed the glebe ; »rally indemni- m tliey let the arish, is about be reckoned :aUed apatrofif vacancy takes presents him to th minister of [nini&ter of the of this law, a st every popu- ish nearly two and the legal and a garden, rk ; and I be- remainder of such as go to :)uarter, but in ers have some- ice is generally filled by otie of their young men, who is a candidate for the min- istry ; but, from the necessary time that he must devote to other studies, it cannot be supposed that the establishment will be equal to the other, where there is a settled teacher ; though it an- swers the purpose of inducing the settled teacher to pay more close attention to his duty. < -- ' ;< * ? .• *■ . I cannot better explain the order of the school and church, and their connexion one with another, than by giving a short sketch of the plan followed in my early life, which will also explain the moral economy of the parish. When I was five years of age, we lived a little more than half a mile from the village ; and I was sent to school along with an elder brother. The first book used in the school was the Shorter Catechism, which cost one halfpenny. The next in order was the Proverbs, price one penny ; the thii^ was the New Testament, price seven -pence or eight-pence. I went through the first two books, of course, and at seven years of age was in the New Testa- ment, at which time we removed to the village. The next gradation was the bible, accompanied by writing, and from thence to Latin and arithmetic ; the writing being continued. The hour of attendance in the morning was 9 o'clock in summer, and 10 o'clock in winter ^ and the school was opened by a short prayer. We 6ad an interval from 1 to 2, and were dismissed at 6 o'clock in the summer, and in winter a little before dark ; when we had again a short prayer. The Saturdays were devoted to re- peat questions in the catechism ; and on Sunday, besides attend- since at church, which was strictly enjoined, we had to get a psalm by heart, which wc repeated in the school on Monday morning. Those farther advanced in education, got by heart the proofs to the Shorter Catechism ; and sometimes we were appointed to re- peat them in church, after the morning service. The people assembled to church at 10 o'clock in the morning, when the exercise began by singing from 8 to 12 lines of the Scots psalms. The schoolmaster was precentor, and all the people joined, often forming a most melodious concert. After singing, the minister prayed, and then read a portion of the scriptures, on which he gave a lecture, which generally lasted about 40 minutes. When it was finished, he gave out another psalm to be sung, and this was called the mid- psalm. The minister then prayed, gave a ^ 1 t ( ^^ C, } -*^ u v 229 TRAVILS t!l sermon, and a prayer after it. He then gave oiit another psalm^ and, with a benediction, dismissed the congregation. If there were any children to be baptised^ they were presented immediately after,singing the last psalm ; and this was performed with great solemnity, in the face of the whole congregation. The parent was admonished to train up the child in the nurture and admonition of the Lord — to be exemplary in his family, and to give the child an education according to his circumstances; which hav- ing assented to, the child was admitted a member of the church by baptism, performed by sprinkling water on the face. In sum- mer there was an interval of about an hour, when the congrega- tion again met, and the afternoon exercise was conducted in the same way, with the omission of the lecture and mid-psalm. The worship in the seceder church was performed exactly in the same way, but was longer continued ; and they had an inter- val both in summer and winter. The religious tenets of the parish were calvinistic,^ in which the established church was pretty libcrsil j but the seceders were very rigid and austere. No part of the discipline, however, had any tendency to clash with the established habits of the people, except that which prohibited promiscuous dancing} that is, men and women dancing together. We had — for my mother was a seceder, and 1 was one of course — we had frequent addresses from the pul- pit on the profanity of this exercise, and the old douce elders and " unco guid" of the congregation were everlastingly admonishing the young and gay against the " awful judgment-like sin of dis- regarding the covenants, and standards of the church ;" but so they might. The young and the gay would hear them, and some- times look douce on the occasion too; but let a fiddle and bass strike up to the tune of '* The Highlandman kissed his mithcr," or the " Cameronian rant," the heart-inspiring strain would im- mediately vibrate through every avenue of the body ; the young })easants, and often the old ones, would immediately start up and dance; nor would they have desisted (I speak of my young days,} I very believe, although Mess John had been in the room, ready to deliver them over to Satan, and his sooty darkness at his elbow, ready to execute the mandate. . f^fr .;^?'.ii r. jj> For my own part, I was passionately fond of Scottish music and dancing, from the earliest period of my remembrance ; ami we had most delectable mubic in the parish. There was a man SCOTLAND. 2SS oi the name of John Bowie, who plaiycd delightfulfy on the fiddle; and his brother Peter was equally celebrated on the bass. They performed at all the weddings round, and a wed- ding could not be held without music and dancing. To these it was the fosliion for the young boys, for many miles round, logo; and I never failed to embrace every opportunity that pre- sented itself. Often, on a stormy winter night, have I walked three or four miles, plashing away through " dub and mire {'* but the moment that the sound of the fiddle reached my ears, it would set my heart a capering so, that I could hardly withstand the temptation to dance in the open fields, a quarter of a mile distant from the scene of action. I cannot devote more room to delineate the peculiar manners of the Scottish peasants. I .shall therefore only observe here, that those in our parish were, generally speaking, sober, discreet, and virtuous ; and referring to the Appendix, No. S, for further par- ticulars, I shalV close this article by an extract from the celebrated Scottish bard, Robert Bums. ' O Scotia ! my dear, my native soil ! For whom my warmest wish to heaven is sent ! Long may thy hardy sons of rustic toil Be blest with health, and peace, and sweet content ! And, O! may Heaven their simple lives prevent . n From luxury's contagion, weak and vile ! That, howe'er cr*wns and coronets be rent^ ' , .^, A virtuous populace may rise the while, And stand, a wall of fire^ around their much-loved isle. From Methven I went to Perth, where I had served my ap- prenticeship to business, and spent a number of my early years. The country is well cultivated, and abounds with fine scenery. The eastern part of the river Almond abounds with printfields and bleachfields, and a large canal is carried from it, about three miles, to supply the town with water, on which there ar&very im- portant works erected. P«rtli is situated on the river Tay, at the head of tide wa- ter, and is one of the handsomest towns in Scotland. The scen- ery around it is very rich, and the public property, consisting of two fine fields, called the North and South Inches, arc not only nrnamental, but highly useful to the town; afTording fine wolks, and bleaching and grazing grounds To the cast is the hill ot ivin- 30 '<: 'J ■I- iiii j i ii ii . 1 .1 ' y—-'— —— — fS4! TRAVBLS IN noul) about 800 feet high, and on the opposite side of the Tay, i| the hill of MoncrieiF, from whence there are some of the richest views in Scotland. There is an elegant stone bridge across tht Tay at Perth, which adds much to the convenience and beauty of the town. Perth contains about If^OOO people, who are principally em- ployed in trades and manufactures, which are carried on with great spirit ; particularly in linen and cotton. There are valuable fishings upon the Tay, which keep a number of vessels ehiployed in the London trade ; and ship-building is carried on to a con- siderable extent. The system of education is upon an excellent footing, particu- larly the academy, at which is taught a college education^in minia- ture ; and it has furnished more good mathematical scholars, cal- culated for the ordinary occupations of life, than any other semi- nary that has ever come under my observation. : (f ; .:»'. kph Having spent a few days in this place, I set out by the coach for Methven, and, bidding adieu to my relations, I continued my journey to Glasgow. •'•»•; CHAPTER XLIX. Edinburgh^ — Dundee^ — Falkland. I MENTIONED in the last chapter, that I had made the bett arrangement I could under existing circumstances ; but to carry it into full effect, was attended with a good deal of difficulty; and I was obliged in consequence, to take a journey to the east coun- try. I accordingly left Glasgow on the 5tli of July, and travel- led by the coach to Edinburgh. Next morning, I crossed the Forth at Leith. The Forth is here seven miles broad, encreasing in breadth to the eastward, and contracting to the westward ; and there are several islands in it, but of no great extent. The whole presents a very picturesque view. The packets generally make a passage in from 40 minutes to an hour ; and they are under such good regulations, and so cautiously conducted, that from time immemorial none of them have been lost. Kinghorn, on the north side of the Fortli, is a small town, built on high ground, isloping towards the Forth, of which, and ICOTLAMD. 986 I crossed the of Edinburgh) and Leith j on the opposite side, it has a fine view. Four miles to the eastward is Kirkaldy, a long straggling town, built mostly on one street, close along the shore; and hero there arc considerable manufactures of hemp, flax, and cotton; par- ticularly of checks and ticks. ..ft.in A mile beyond this, on the height, is Pathhead, where a great deal of weaving is done, principally for the Kirkaldy manufac- turers. A mile to the east is Dysart, a little town remarkable for its coaUworks ; and the whole coast to the eastward is studded with towns, containing from 200 to 400 people. From Pathhead, I travelled 16 miles to Cupnr, through a va- riegated country, abounding in hill and dale, woods and small rivulets. « The soil is pretty good, and the system of agriculture is in a very advanced state. Cupar is the county town, 'and is a populous and thriving place, having considerable manufactures ; particularly of linen goods, such as SileSias and Osnaburgs# The country in its neighbour- ho«xi is remarkably well cultivated, and the farmers have every appearance of wealth, and its usual concomitant — independence. From Cupar, I travelled 1 1 miles to Dundee, and, being on horseback, I took the nearest road, which led me over a hilly track of country ; but the soil was fertile, and it was every where covered with fine fields of grain, particularly wheat. While I was enjoying this scenery, and contemplating the bounty of Providence, I was joined by a very communicative, gar- rulous friend, who told me he was a plasterer in Dundee. He began a long tf^lk about America, part of which I knew before, and part of which was never known by mortal man. But it was all gospel in my friend's eyes. He had it from the best authority : he could not be mistaken. — Among other tales, he mentioned that a gentleman, of the name of Millar, hod left a good trade in Dundee to go to America, and had settled in the back woods a- iQong the savages ; and yet he had come back to try to get his wife to go out also ; alleging that it was a better country than this ! « But," added he, " I'm very well pleased where 1 am, and iijr tend to remain in Dundee." p- ^* v'^r ^ ' . 1 y-- s On drawing towards the place of destination, the road descends by a winding course of considerable extent, from whence there is a beautiful view of the Firth of Tay, which we crossed by a ferry I jf -■=33*:;: -■..V^., SS6 TRAVELS IN nearly throe miles broad, and immediately entered the town of Dundee, where I stopped for the night. Dundee is a large town, containing upwards of 26,000 inhabi- tants, who have extensive and well-organized manufactures of hemp, flax, and cotton; particularly cotton-bagging, sail-cloth, Osnaburgs, and coloured threads. It is one of the principal ship- ping ports in the east of Scotland, and carries on a considerable trade to the Baltic, from which the principal raw materials for the manufactures are drawn. .1 soon finished my business here, and returned to Cupar. From thence I travelled to Auchtermouchty, about nine miles to the westward, through a tolerably fertile country. Here also there are considerable linen manufactures. My business was soon finished at this place, and I immediately set out for Edinburgh. The only place of note that I passed was Falkland, once the residence of the kings of Scotland. Tlie remains of the palace are still to be seen, but it is a miserable pile of building, having a room or two occupied as a carpenter's shop ; notwithstanding, it has a hereditary keeper, with a considerable salary ! ■ * One of the beautiful Lomond hills rises immediately to the south of Falkland, and reaches an elevation of about 1200 feet. Seven or eight miles to the westward is the other, and there is a continued ridge between them, which affords pasture for a great many sheep. The whole of the county of Fife abounds with coal, iron, and other minerals. 1 reached Edinburgh in the evening, and next day returned to Glasgow. , »^ . . CHAPTER L. M:'^'' Glasgow, — Edinbwgh, — Mr, Fo£s birth-day. » M. HE orders in council still continued their baleful operation, and and 1 was kept in a state of inactivity most uncongenial to my es- tablished habits ; but there was no help : <* the king willed it," and I was obliged to submit. Under this disagreeable feeling, I was glad to avail myself of any active and rational amusement ; and two much-valued friends, one 1-^ .'■A^i.. » I d the town of SCOTLAND. 1t37 of them a merchant of Liverpool, having invited mc to take a jaunt to Edinburgh, I accepted it with pleasure ; the more so as I heard that tiie birth-day of Mr. Fox was to be celebrated in a few days. We left Glasgow on the 20th of January, 1809. Mr. Fox's birth- day was celebrated by the whig party in Edinburgh, on the 24ith, Being ac(|uainted with several members of that illustrious body, I applied for tickets for my Liverpool friend and myself; and we join- ed the party accordingly. A friend, who had assisted in arranging the music, and whose place was to be opposite the band, that he nii^ht give the necessary instructions, obligingly accommodatetl us with seats besicic himself; so that we were placed in o favourable situation for observation. The company, nearly 200 in number, assembled at G o'clock. Mr. Maul, of Panmure, took the chair ; Sir Harry MoncriefTwof chaplain. The company generally, in point of respectability of cha- racter, liberality of sentiment, and brilliancy of intellect, ranked high among the living characters of the present day. What a bless* ing it would be for mankind, thought I, if the councils of states could be animated by the spirit, and actuated by the conduct of such men I But Providence has, (no doubt for wise reasons, though inscrutable to ns) ordered it otherwise ; and we must submit, and hope for better days. ,? , (? The first toast, " The glorious and immori^l memory of Charles James Fox," was drank in silence, and standing. This was follow- ed by a dirge from the band of vocal music; after which we had the song of " Scots wha hae wi' Wolloce bled," followed by the oir to which Burns originally composed it, by the inimitable band of Na- thaniel Gow ; and so mournfully pathetic did they play it, that it brought a plentiful shower of tears from the eyes of many of the company. Every toast was followed by music, and never did I hear music more elegant or better arranged. Nathaniel Gow, a son of the ce- lebrated Niel Gow, led the band, and, to use the language of my Liverpool friend, he " handled his elbow in great style;" and was well supported by the other performers. The notice of a few of the leading sentiments, with the music that followed, will serve to illustrate the spirit of the company. Toast — The whig party of Scotland. Music — Whigs of Fife. Toast— Whigs of England. * ■ V''^ ) /i <2f 1) w\ M h€.. tx y TKAVBLi IK ^'•i», Mtak-^ th« roaftt beef of Old England I ' - ToASt— Whigs of Ireland. ' JIfttfiV'-Erin go bragh. ... • . . Toast — A apeedy adjustment of our differences witli Americ% and justice to foreign powers. ' '■ ^■' ' ^ Music — ^Yankee Doodle. The whole conduct of the enlightened gentlemen composing this meeting showed that they were actuated by the truly enlightened prin* ciples of the revered character whos^, birth they met to celebrate; and the last sentiment, and music that accompanied it, is a convinc- ing proof that they entertained liberal sentiments regarding Ame- rica. Had the councils of Mr. Fox prevailed in the British cabi- net, two nations " formed to be mutually beneficial to each other," instead of being plunged into a calamitous war, might have reaped the mutual advantages of cultivating the arts of peace I Befoire leaving Edinburgh, we heard the melancholy account of the battle of Corunna, and the sacrifice of one of the most gallant of Britannia's sons. Sir John Moore. And for what? — To support the independence of Spain and Portugal 1 say the British ministry and their adherents. Of the correctness of the sentiment let posterity jnii^ije. The weather was dreadfully cold during our stay at Edinburgh, the thermometer being one day as low as 2°. On our way to Glas- 'gow, the snow was so deep, that during a considerrble part of the journey vehad six horses in the carriage. CHAPTER LI. ' joumof lb Irelaniy-^Port Patrick, — Belfast, — Dwidrum Bay, — Newry, ^A. PEiRIOD was at last put to my state of inactivity. On the . .17th of July, as I walked along the street, the carrier put a packet oi letters into my hands, which bore the post-mark of Castlewellan, in Ireland. On openingjit, I found'it contained an invoice and bill .of lading of a cargo of cotton, shipped by the Lucy from Savannah; but the vessel was bound to Liverpool, and there v as nothing to ex- plain why my letters should have been put ashore at Castlewel- lan. I dreaded a shipwreck, and madt Immcd. ate preparations to go to Ireland* X left Glasgow by the mail stage on the 19th, and travelling "mfi tCOTLANft. fS9 through a tolerably fertile oountry about 7 miles, puted through a chain of barren hills, of pu great height, about 7 miles more. Eight miles beyond this is Kilmarnock, and towards it the country is a little improved. Kilmarnock is a straggling village, but celebrated for its manu- &ctures of carpets, and as being the scene of several subjects in th« works of the Ayrshire poet, who, in on« of his poems, honours it with the following notice : ' , ;. ' Kilnuvnoek wabitan, fijgt an* cUw, ' ' ^^ An* pour jour cramhie BtUoni i ', ■' *'* I ,.^ » w- .. ,'*• An* ye wlm laathtr MI •!>• dmw, ^ | ., Of a' denominations ; Swith to the laigh kirk ane an' a*. An' there tak up your ttationi, . Thea aff to ^W«'t in a raw, if. ' And pour diTine libationt - • ' For joy this day. We Stopped at the said Bigbie's, and, for the humour of th« thing, I called for a libation of porter ; but there was noj(n/ in the drinking of it — it was sour, stale, and spiritless. From Kilmarnock to Ayr is 12 miles : the road is very good, but the country is poor, although it certainly bears an excellent crop of " bonny lasses :" the women of Ayrshire are beautiful. On entering the town of Ayr, every thing that I saw reminded me of my favourite bard. The " Dungeon Clock" and ♦• Wal- lace Tower," the " twa steeples," could be seen at a distance, and I passed by the " New Brig," where a little way up the stream I saw the " Auld Brig;" and the whole scenery brought the extraor* dinary dialogue between the " Brigs of Ayr" fresh to my recollec- tion. Ayr has no mimufactures for America, and I had not a moment to view the town ; so, procuring a chaise, I posted all night to- wards Port Patrick. The night was dark, damp, and dismal; but my haste would brook no delay. I hurried on : at midnight I was at Girvan, at daylight at Ballantrac, and, at 8 o'clock, I break- fasted on the east side of Loch Ryan. From thence the i oad passes through a poor moory country to Port Patrick, which I reached at one o'clock. Here I was informed that the packet had not sailed for five day:), such had been the violence of the weather ; and that a number of passengers wore in waiting, one of them a gentleman of my ae- ♦ h^'i ;:K- 1; ^. I './ . b I ii 2iO. TRAVELS IN qunintancc from drlosgow, bound to Ireland on an errand of the same nature as my own; It was Sunday, &nd the gentlemen were at church; but 1 was told they would soon return, when they would take dinner, and the packet would sail immediately after, I was rejoiced at this intelligence, and ran up stairs to shave and clean myself; but the despatch was greater than I had been led to imagine, for I had only got my beard half off when I was informed that I must immediately go on board the packet, or lose my pas- sage; I therefore buckled up my trumperij, and, in the style that the Israelite messengers were once presented to their king, half shaved and half not, I presented myself on board the packet-boat, and she immediately got under way. Port Patrick is one of the most singular ports I ever saw. The town consists of a few houses only, and the harbour is a small inlet among a large mass of rugged rocks. The whole coast is lof- ty, and lined with rocks ; and this harbour, small as it is, is the only place where a boat could land for many miles ; &f which account it is one of the great thoroughfares to Ireland^ where the mail pack- ets daily cross. The mode by which they warp the boats out and in, is very ingenious and singular. The wind was almost ri^^ht ahead, and the swell considerable, but we got warped out, and put to sea. For the first few hours the weather was pretty motlerate, and we got about half-way across, when the wind increased to a very severe gale, which continued ail night and great part of nex.t day. Tlia passengers in the cabin were mostly all sick, and in all my passages across the AtLintic I jievar suffered so much. But in the steerage it was more serious.* The captain was obliged to shut jthe hatches ; and the vessel being crowded with passengers, some of them were almost stifled to death. lu this way we were beat about in the channel for 24/ liours, often within a few miles of the Irish coast, though we could not reach it ; and finally we were obliged to put back to Port Patrick. Two days thereafter we had a fair wind, which wafted us over 27 miles, in a few hours ; aiul we set foot on Paddi/s dominiom just as it began to get dark. The degree of prejudice that is artfully kept alive in Britain against Ireland, would hardly be believed by those who are not ac- tiuainted with it ; and such was the effect it had produced on me, that though I did not believe tlie twq^Uieth part of the stories that % Deere told of the <* ^Id Irisih)" yet, on landing at bonagfaadee, f had considerable apprehensions as to my personal safety; and nothing could have induced me to travel alone at chat hour of the night in a post-chaise. I therefore availed myself of the company of my Glasgow friend, whose business was equally urgeAt with my own : we posted all night by Belfast and Hillsborough ; and at day- light arrived at Banbridge. Here we parted, he to go to WeX' ford; I took a post-chaise, and drove on with all the despatch that a pair of very sorry horses would carry me, to Dundrum bay. On my way thither I learned the unfortunate fate of the vessel ; and on reaching the spot, I found her lying a total vreck on the shore, and the inhabitants collected to a public sale of her ma- terials. The supercargo assured me that all the cargo was safe : it was all landed to be sure, but on examination I found it so completely drenched with sea-water, that it was very questionable whether it would bring one-third of its value; and the expenses I found would be excessive. My first impression was, that we should sell off the whole on the spot, and the ageint and I had an advertisement drawn up to that effect ; but this not meeting the approbation of my friends in Britain, lior the owners of the other parts of the ear- go, I reluctantly yielded up my opinion to theirs, and agreed to ship it to Liverpool : in consequence of this determination, I was detained eight weeks in Ireland. As our agent lived at Newry, I had frequent occasion to go there, and I found him a most hospitable man, frank, frieildly, and obliging. The morning after my arrival he carried me to the CoiFce-house, where there was an animated debate concerning a newspaper ; and which subject, though apparently trifling, actu- ally involved the catholic question. One of the subscribers, a very respectable merchant in the place, was clwrged with a breach of the rules, by abstracting the public papers for his own private use. The charge was founded on the trivial circumstance, that the gentleman being confined to his bed by indisposition, his derk wished to communicate a piece of very interesting intelligence, and carried away, with leave of the bar -keeper, one of the papers which contained it, after the room was shut at night, which he re- turned before it was opened in the morning. A common observe' Would have thought that there was really no harm in this: it was 31 - .'W It. •;'"■ ■■ . *;'•• I % r Tin \ 242 TRAVELS IN calculated to injure noGody ; and if there was any blame at aU, it rested with the clerk, not the employer. But . 8o did not one of the subscribers think. He made it the ground of a most serious charge, in which he overlooked the clerk altogether, and fixed on ■the employer only. The matter was explained, and, as might haTe been expected, the charge was scouted by the good sense of the pe<^le. " Why was it made?' might be asked^ with sur- prise, by those wlio do not know the management of regular go- veritments. The gentleman who made it was an officer under go* vci*nment, and a heresy hunter ; his antagonijst had the audacity to be a Roman catholic. Newry is situated on a river called Newry Water, at the head of Carlingford Bay, and enjoys a v^ry considerable commerce, espcr cially in. the Liverpool trade. The bay is navigable for large ves- sels to within a few miles of the town, and the navigation is thence continued for smaller vessels into the town by a canal, which runs to Lough Ncagh. llie greater part of the- town is low, and not very clean ; but part of it is on high ground, on which the church stands, with a low squat steeple. The country round is hilly, ex- cept to the north-west, where it spreads out into fine fertile plains. The peculiar configuration of the town, and state of society in it, occasioned the following lines from the satirical pen of Dean Swift: High church, low steeple, Dirty streets^ aiid proud people. - It:^ m xnny suTvexs, aiiu proua people. - '•: .^i';> Whether the people in general deserve the character, I cannot say^ but those among whom I associated certainly did not. I found them frank, affable, polite, and friendly. My business in Ireland proved much more troublesome than was originally anticipated, and I was induced to go to Belfast to muke some enquiry concerning it. From Newry to Banbridge is lO miles, through a tolerably good soil,, improving towards the latter place, which is a small town, surrounded by fine bleachfields, and has a good linen market. Five miles beyond Banbridge we passed Dromore, the seat of one of the Irish bishops ; and four miles from thaice we reached Hillsborough, finely situated, in a rich and flourishing countryj and containing about. 100 houses. The church is an elegant building, with a very lofty spire; and the windows arc stained, in imitation of some of the English cathe- drals. Tliis is the seat of the Downhhire family, one of the mott wealthy in Ireland. -'iy'' V I- ikiiAND. • . ' ^ 343 < Three miles beyond this is Lisburn, a thriving little town, in which cotton manufactories have been estabfehed to a very consi- derable extent ; and seven miles from thence; through a very ele- gant country, and highly cultivated; is the town of Belfast. Belfast is situated at the head of Belfast Lough, and is a hand- some place» having extensive cotton and linen manufactories, and a very considerable shipping trade. I was detained here part of two days, and found the inhabitants very civil and obliging. Those, in particular, with whom I had business, were uncommonly atten- tive; and one gentleman, who was a good deal conversant with the mode of managing shipwrecks and damaged cotton, agreed to pay me a visit at Dundriim Bay, and give me his best advice. ' This matter being settled, I returned to Newry. We changed horses at Banbridge, the place where I parted with my friend on my way to Dundrum Bay. The hostler, a humor- = ous-looking- fellow, recognized me. ** Was not you the gentleman," said he, '* that I got the chaise for the t'other morning, and that gave me a five-penny in place of a ten-penny, because he had no more change ?" ** May be so," said I, taking my seat in the carria^'- ''And shall I really shut the door?" says, he looking very ? i.r>^ ously in my face. " Certainly," said I, pretending ig- noran •- ^;' his meaning: " we can't travel with the carriage door open." " Well now," said he, still holding the door, ** who would have expected it from that good, generous-looking face?* ** By my shotil" said I, Paddy, (giving him a ten-penny,) **ifyouIri8h- itfen don't make money, it will not be for want of brass" " Odi ? dear, sure our tongues were never meant for the pocket," said Pad- dy, shutting the door with a hnmorous smile, and we drove an. From Newry I returned, accompanied by my friend, to Dundrum* Bay, where 1 had immense trouble with the cargo ; but this sub- ject, though of great importance to me, being of no consequend^ to the reader, I shall pass it over, and notice a few of those .l)c- currences which are more generally interesting. ' Dundrum Bay, where the vessel was stranded, is a largeHbeYid in the Irish Sea, extending across from Annalong on the south- west to Point St. John on the south-east, about 12 miles; and it< extends into the country about five miles. To the weat are the lofiy * Mournc mountains^ one of' them (Slieve Donard,) thehigbeatin Ireland. To the north-east of the mountains, the country spreads out into pfetty fertile fields. ..» , ^ .. ^ .*.'. '* .^;^t^5 'i;- - 1 ^ '■'?. ■>*'*'.'■ \ i ^t t^ foot 9f the moi^ntouM st^nd^ NewcasUc, a small vflj^e^ aqd frpm tJb^^a f astward tli« aea shore ii a aapdy beach, two mUff to IhuidruiQy where there it an inlet. This inlet spreads to the east and west a conaiderable distance ; the western part is a nacroMf peninsula, abounding with rabbits, and has been conrert- ed into a rabbit warren. The Lucy was driven a^ore on the eastern part of this peninsula ; and the cargo was landed on the premises of the proprietors of the rabbit warren, a very respecta- ble and hospitable family, where I found the captain and super- cargo r and with whom I also lodged during my sti^ there. The landlord was near 70 years of age, very stout made, re- soarkably humoursonte^ and a great lover of the game of whist The landlady was nearly as fond of whist as her husband ;. and when they joined their forces, they were an overmaitch for alinost all whiQ ventur^ to play against them. ;^4><;;^.. They had a large family, all grown up, of whom four sons and three daughters were at home; they all played whist: they ^{^ also visited by some of the most respectable pei^le in the ' neighbourhood,, and often, in the eveniugs, they had very e«- tertainii^g whist parties. It was early in the morning after one of tliese parties, that the Lucy met with her hard fate. She was bound to LiTe]rpool, and, l)«ipg,paBt Skerxies-light, was within a few hours' sail of pilot ground, \|rhen the gale commenced ; and, afber weathering it for three days she was at last driven ashore here. The old' man, who wa§ weather-wise, anticipated the event "Be rose fronn the card-table, and looked out ; apd, on re^ymiag his seat, observed, ** It cheats me, if there be not a rat caught in the trap before morning:" and so there was. On going to the . bi^ch in the UMHning, ther^, high and dry, thie l^^ucy lay ; and s^fu>diex. vessel, aho^t a mile to the westward. . The ci^ptain uid supercargo, who were almost dead with fa- tigue, were taken to the house, anc^ hospitably entertained ; an^ mca^^pres.vrere taken to secure the wreck. In the evening there vas a wl^ift party, and the old man, seeing the captain look very . pitiful andidejeqted, advised him to take a hand at whist, to cheer bif spirits. ..The captain was pcrsnaded; Imt something else than l^i«t was uppermpst in.hia mind,, and he could hardly Heep him- fiplf awake, whili^ he played two or three games very b&dty. He relinquished the gam^ and went to bed, in the sapo^ room wbei;a •^ ••%»-• 7^^^' 1 1 f ;*.■ the landlord slept Tlie landlord did not gAto bed fo» tone heart after, when, awakening the captain wkk some difficulty, th« ^flt^ ter srarted up with a halloo^ calling out, ** What's th« natter ?' « O iliitb, the matter's not great, dear," said 4he' landloikt. ** I only wanted to tell you that you're a d— h1 bad hand at wfaist, and by J — s, you shall never be a partner of mine again, for I loit. ^wo tu'i I- pennies by you." >?!>v>j'' < h'^n. ■' ;< ' .' v.^^ •<•( .i rtfifvi^.i He was a very early riser, and generally came to my room in Kiorning to wake me; when he would entertain me with a thottioarui witty sayings. Sometimes he wotild descant on thc^ lyrtit^c-^ of the creation, the brightness of the sun, the healthy i^>'i)r9eze, the rising plants, and the singing of the birds. At qfiiQt times he would remark, that the ^ir was *' as thick as but- ' ter-milk," or that he could cut it with a knife ; on which ooea-^ •sions he would say, " You had better lie still, and take another sleep, dear." W6 were introduced to a number of the families round ; among others,* to the doctor of the place, who was a man of talents^ and esteemed one of Xhe greatest wits in all the country. At a Visit' ilig party, our supercargo and the doctor entered into a punning Conversation; but tl|0' supercargo was no match for the doctor ail this kindt^fi^duiicourse. He ^ad been amusing the company with a numbei* of tales, concerning the wonderful size of wme of tiie animals in America ; amongst others the wdl-known story of tb^ amazing large musquetoes that bit general 'Washington thiio^g;k the boots.* As an offset, the doctor told an equal number of talet about the wonderful animals in Ireland, meeting the supercargo in every point, except the musquetoes. *< Well," said the sop^h cargo, triumphantly, "you must acknowledge that om fiiet mta larger than yours." <* Yes, faith,'' cried the doctor, " I'll •cknovf ledge it with all my heart, if you'll only take .away thttjrfram them." Several linen merchants were in the neir,hbourhood, wlu> ffsf% me a history of the linen trade of Ireland, and stated that' IiIa stoppage of the American trade was ruining thdr business* One!; of diem had recently returned from Rio Janeiro^ where h» been with a cargo of linens, to the value of nearly 60,000 stedingi tempted by the flattering accounts held ont by the ropporteBii of •^ fi«e Wdd's IV»v*i, \ 4 \ i' ■J' "■»«! 1 V. 1 -*——«•, - w ■ I Sltf* TRAVELS IN the ministry. He returned ivith a most deplorable tale. He Wof' not ^e to sell above one third, at a loss of SO per cent.« and he could only get a precarious produce for return, by which he an- ticipated a loss of from 10 to 20 per cent. more. The remainder of the goods he was obliged to consign into other hands, and leave the place. His loss altogether, he supposed, would be fully one half; and he said that almost every other sort of goods were sub- ject to a similar depreciation. Goods were pouring in from all quarters, — London, Liverpool, Glasgow, Manchester, Birming- ham, Sheffield, &c.^ and so badly informed were the people in ■ome places, that many articles sent were altogether unsuitable for the market : iron grates, fenders, fire-irons, warming-pans, and Skates, were exported to the Brazils. But the prince regent was our august ally, and therefore that country must be a fine market for all sorts of manufacturer " Only look at the map," the min- isterialists would exultingly exclaim ; " only look at the map, and see the amazing extent of the country : how rich ! how finely watered ! And then the gold mines that it abounds^ with ; and the noble Portuguese who inhabit it, our friends, p<.d our beloved allies. Here's a field for our surplus manufactures to the latest posterity; let us avail ourselves of it, and kick that blackguard Yan'-ee trade to the devil I" « Amen," said John Bull ; and, overlooking the trifling circumstance, that it was inhabited by only half a million of people, and these the most poor, pitiful, bigot- ted, priest-ridden devils under the sun, he did avail himself of it» and can now calculate the value of the avail ! My friend came from Belfast, according to promise, and brought two or three cotton spinners along with him. They looked at the cotton, and, giving their best advice, invited me to convoy them as far as Bailynahinch. Here we were met by our agent from Newry, and spent a very happy evening together. I got an account of the battle of Bailynahinch, and of the present state of Ireland, and next morning set out to Dundrum, distant nine miles. ' There was neither horse nor chaise o be hired here ; so I was obliged to walk. Learning that there were some medicinal springs by the way, I went about two miles out of the direct road to visit them. Before I had got that length, a \ -y severe rain came on,and I was glad to take shelter in a little wretched cabin beside the springs. The old woman was kind to an excess, brought me a dram of whis- W' ' '*^--- J" JiSf^" I I -.*> ale. He Wat cent., and he which he an- ["he remainder ids, and leave i be fully one »ods -were sub- ig in Irom all ster, Birming- the people in r unsuitable for ning-pans, and ince regent wat e a fine market map," themin- itthe map, and ch! how finely a^with; and the ;,d our beloved •es to the latest hat blackguard hn Bull; and, ihabited by only pitiful, bigot- lil himself of it, promise, and Ith him. They [ice, invited me e were met by rening together. id of the present [undrum, distant h^te ; so I was aedicinal springs Wet road to visit l-ain cMne on,and [jeside the springs. adramofwhis- . IRILAMO* 247 k«y, and regretted that the accompdation was so poor. AHer I had warmed and dried myself a little, she looked out, and pro* nounced that it would rain all day. She then asked, whether I hod ever heard of Mr. Fox, and, upon being answered in the af« firmative, she put a few more questions, to learn whether I ap- proved of Mr. Fox^s scittiments* I could nOt divine the meaning of this, and was pondei-ing the subject in my mind, when r young boy in livery called at the house, and told me the counsellor sent bis compliments, and requested I would call upon him, as he wished to see me. I was surprised, and was going to ask the old wonlan who the counsellor was ; but she sealed my lips by' telling me, just to step up to the counsellor's, and it would be all ex- plained to me. I obeyed, and followed the messenger. " And who is the counsellor, my young fellow ?" said I, as we walked towards the house. " He is counsellor Trotter, sir," said the boy. " What," said I, " the same that was private secretary to Mr. Fox ?" " Yes," said the boy. This accounted for the conduct of the old woman ; and I shall ever remember her with gratitude, for beiAg the means of introducing me to the bosom friend and biographer of Charles James Fox. The counsellor and I soon 'got intimately acquainted. I answer- ed all his questions concerning America, and ha gave me a great deal of information regarding Mr. Fox's private life, including aii account of his journey to France, in which Mr. Trotter accom- panied him, and of his death, at which he was present I was delighted with his conversation, and the day, as if determined to prolong it, continuing very stormy, I availed myself of his hospi- table offer, and staid all lu'ght. Next morning early, I set out for Dundrum. During my stay at this place, I received letters announcing the arrival of one my partners from Savannah, and stating that I must hold myself in readiness to retufn to America. I was sick of my present situation, and longed to be home; so, inviting my ' partner to come and take charge of the cargo, 1 continued ship- ping it to Liverpool with all possible despatch. My partner ari'iv- e npj the expenses. Had it arrived safe, it would have yielded *j| de&r ' ■ 'J.'"; T ' ■ ■ -J •* '-i 'W- s::.-srjf"'"<^r--... . '^" ,1 1 '} 1 •B 848 TKAVtU'IN profit of £.1000* Snch are some of the turns of fate ! There ira» not one penny of insuranee upon it, nor the power of making it The first account that I received of it was by the before-mentiofr* «d letters from Castlewellan. ;ii "■x'ifl CHAPTER LII. j' . \ Return to Glasgaao. :'.::( ^.i A.PRIJL doth. Having completed the shipment, I parted froia my hospitable entertainers with sentiments of friendly regard, and set out en my return to Glasgow, . taking Strangford in my way, in order to clear out the vessels at the custom-house ; and J was accompanied by my agreeable friend, the agent at Newry. We passed through Downpatrick, the capital of Pownshire, n pretty large town, but not handsome ; though it is situated on a fertile country, and carries on a considerable trade. On our arrival at Strangford, the deputy collector executed our business with great despatch, and very much like a gentleman, which is a compliment that I cannot pay to all his miyesty's set- Tants in Ireland, with whop I had to deal. If I were inclined to be ill-natured here, I could give a great big thrashing to a cer- tain gentleman, that liveft not a hundred miles from the foot of Mourne Mountains, who thinks *< he has a right to make the most of his situation on the coast;" and seems to be of opinion, that 'lie is justifiable in adopting any means in the exercise of that right ; but I am now in a hurry to be at Glasgow, and shall pass over his conduct. We crossed over to Portaferry, betwixt which and Strangford the tide runs with a velocity that I have never yet seen equalled. We dined at Portaferry, after which the agent and I parted with many professions of sincere regard. From Portaferry to Donaghadee is about 16 miles, partly along the coast. The country is pretty, but the soil in many places is poor. Thu district was mostly peopled firom Scotland, and I could observe a remarkable coincidence in dialect between the people on both side^ of the channd. I reached Donaghadee at 10 o'clock in the morning; and a number of vessels loaded with bullocks, bemg about to sail for Port Patrick, 1 engaged a pafr* sige in one of them, to sail «t 2 o'clock. IBBLAND. 249 . In the mean time, I could not help contrasting the sensationii I now bad regarding Ireland with those I entertained of the country before I saw it. I noticed, on landipg at Donaghadce, that ** I had considerable apprehensions for my personal safety, and nothing could have induced me to travel alone at night in a post chaise." )iovff however, I was satisfied that I could not only travel alone in a post-chaise, but that I could travel in any way, and at all hours, with as much safety as I could in any part of Britain. I was, in fact, highly pleased both with the country and the inhabitants. — The vessel set sail in the afternoon, and arrived at Port Patrick a« bout sundown. The evening was very clear, and I could sec the Mourne Mountains at the distance of 50 miles. v*' «-u At Port Patrick I met with an Irish gentleman who was tra« Veiling to Glasgow, and being pleased with his appearance, I was very glad to have him for a travelling companion. We started by the stage at 6 o'clock in the morning, and travelled along the const, which we found pretty rugged, hilly and barren ; but abounding in fine views which were seen to great advantage, the day being re- markably clear. At one place, on the top of a hill, we could sec the whole north channel; the coasts of Ireland and Scotland; the islands of Arran, Bute, and Ailsa ; and I could also distinctly per- ceive the Mourne Mountains, althouglt we were now upwards of 80 tniles distant. In the course of oui' Journey I discovered that my travelling com- panion had a fine taste for music ; and being f^ovided with an exp- edient flute, in his travelling cane, he entertained me with a great- er number of Irish tunes than I had ever heard before. When we drew near Ayr we left the couch and crossed over the country about half a mile to the old road, to see the birth«place of the immortal Burns. It is a lowly one-story house, the one end slated, the other thatched. Being ushered into the slated end, whicii had a deal floor, we called for a " whisky gill," with which we tnade a libation to the metnory of the departed bard ; and having repeated " Tam o' Shanter," the scene of which, " AUoway Kirk," is hard by, we set out for Ayr. At the end df the town we passed a most princely house, which might have been with much propriety dedicated to Folly. It was the fruits of a rapid foTCt^ it^fle by smuggling, which, like many such, had taken to itself thji the morning and departed ; but the house remained an ii the cupidity and imprudence of its former owner. 32 #"f ''Wt' ■:i0''::^ ":: £50 TRAVELS IM The stage proceeded no further than Ayr ; but being anxiom t« reach Glasgow, my fellow«traveller agreetl to accompany me in a post chaise, which having procured, we arrived at 8 o'clock next morning. CHAPTER Llil. , V GlasgoWi — Edinburgh, — Livei^pool, — Manchestcrt—Leedsj—Not' ' tinghanii — London* • •\i - ^OON afler my return from Ireland, I was highly gratified with the account of Mr. Erskine's arrangement with the United States, and the removal of the non- intercourse ; which was followed by a removal of the orders in council in Britain : but the hope induced by these circumstances was of short duration. Two days had not elapsed before meetings of the shipping interest were held, and the ministry were assailed with most deplorable tales concerning the loss of their trade. One set of them had the audacity, indeed, to set up the pica that if the Americans were allowed a free trade, it would deprive the British shipping interet^t of the carrying trade to Holland. To Holland 1 Yes, to Holland ! — a country with which the nation was at war ; and to trade with which was declared to be high treason by the laws of the land ! A cabinet council was held, at which, it is said Mr. Canning, the secretary for foreigi;; afiiurs, took a most active part, and strenuous- ly supported the principle that Mr. Erskine's arrangement should be ratified ; but a certain elevated personage took umbrage at sonic expressions in the papers, and would not agree ! and the orders in council were re-enacted in a new form, called a blockade. Thus were the vtUuable nianutactures of the country sacrificed to the whim of an individual, and the mercantile cupidity of a shipping interest. The public will be able to form a pretty correct judgment as t» what degree of knowledge in political economy was possessed by the men to whom was confided the management of the affairs of a great commercial nation, by adverting to the following facts: It was estimated by Mr. Pitt that the profits of the nation arising from manufactures amounted to From the merchant shipping and small craft The hands employed in manufactures were esti- mated at 1,680,000 £. 14,100,000 £, 1,000,000 p>. "r-'^y^ iHitm-itmii*^^'' tNGLAVO. 851 £. 7,000^0 675,000 Seamen in the merchant service at if' . t.^ 155,000 The income arising from manufactures destined for the united States The hands employed in manufactures for the U- nited States And 1 presume that the hands employed in the whole trade with the enemies of the country do . , •'* • not exceed . . 20,000 And yet a fair, honourable, and safe trade, to a great extent, with a friendly neutral, has been sacrificed to a poor, pitiful, limited, dis- honourable, and precarious commerce, subject to the regulation of the arch-enemy of the country. Could that enemy have managed the matter with more advantage to his views? I now calculated that the American trade was at an end, and im- mediately decided to set out for that country to inquire into the state of our property there, and make the best arrangement regarding it that circumstances might point out. Before taking my passage for America, it was necessary to make a very extended tour in Bri- tain ; and though it was so rapid as to be almost barren of incident or observation, yet I shall state the outlines, so as to continue the chain of connexion with the other parts of these travels. I set out from Glasgow on the 1st of August, 1809, and travelled by the coach to Edinburgh. From thence I crossed the Forth to Kirkaldy, Cupar, and Dundee, and returned to Edinburgh. On the 6th, I lefl Edinburgh in the mail coach for Carlisle. We passed through Dalkeith, Selkirk and Langholm. A great part of the journey was in the night, and the weather was very rainy. The soil appeared pretty good to Dalkeith, which is a handsoma little town, nine miles from Edinburgh, with the seat of the duke of Buccleugh in the neighbourhood. The soil continues good a considerable way beyond Dalkeith, aiier which the country is poor and hilly ; but it answers well for pasture, and the people keep large flocks of sheep. I reached Carlisle at 6 o'clock, and continued my journey to Li- verpool, where I arrived at 3 o'clock next morning. In the afternoon 1 left Liverpool for Manchester, and continued my journey to Halifax and Leeds, and thence through a fertile country eight miles, to Wakefield, a neat town, having extensive manufactures of woollens, particularly stuffs. From Wakefield to Sheffield is 24 miles, through a rich, well *- SftS TRAVEM W ■^ .. cttlUvafed country ; and at Sheffield are the greatest manufactories ol' edge-tools in England. The master 'Cutlcrt are here GOO in num- ber, and the quantity and variety or work that i« produced is- im- mense. America is a great and important market for Sheffield goods. On the morning of the 15th of August, at one o'clock, I left Shef- field for Nottingham, distant 38 miles. Of the country I could see nothing till 1 was near Nottingham, and there it is fertile and well improved. Nottingham is situated on the steep ascent of u rock, overlook- ing the river Trent, and a vast range of adjoining meadows. It is a large, populous, and pretty handsome town, having the streets well paved, and a good market-place: it is a principal seat of the manu- facture of cotton and silk hosiery, and lace; and sends annually g Tast quantity of goods to America. There is a castle situated on a Iiigh part of the eminence, which has a fine effect when viewed at a distance. Here I took a passage by the mail coach for London ; and setting " out at nine o'clock in the morning, we passed through Norman, Melton, Mowbray, Oakham, Uppingham,, Rockingham, Harbo- rough, Kettering, Wellingborough, Harold, Bedford, Shelford, Hitchin, Hatfield, Barnet, and Highgatc, and reached London, distant from Nottingham 124 miles, at 5 o'clock next morning. My business in London was soon settled, and I devoted a day to «ee my friends ; but !> was too much hurried to go to any of the public places with which the city abounds, except Vauxhall Gar- '"'* ^ens. This place is considered a great curiosity, and in all my for- . -iner visits to London I had never had an opportunity of seeing it. /' H had been out of town dining with a friend, and hurri^ to the Lon- • V clon coffee-house to go to the gardens. Just as I arrived I found 9^41 Scotsman from Georgia at his glass of wine : he invited me to pnr- mt^m of it ; but I declined it, telling him that I was in a hurry to go to ^^^uxholl ; he finished his wine, and agreed to accompany me. It was the duke of York's birth-night, he told me, and there would be some extra amusements. As we travelled towards the gardens I perceived that my friend had taken a glass too much, and it began to operate pretty vehemently to the prejudice of the English people. I did not regard this when by ourselves ; but I admonished him to be more circumspect in his conduct and expressions when we should i^cach the garden, whiob bo^eadily 'Assented to. On our arrival, I was delighted with the vast variety and brilli- ENGLAND. 253 ancy of the lamps, and the immenne concourse of people. An or- chestra was in the middle, and we had some vocal and instrumental music; but as I never admired English music, I pass it over. In a short time my friend proposed an adjournment to a tent, where wc might have something to drink : he called for a bowl of nrrack punch, and seeing some company pass, he invited two of them to take scats beside us, and u share of our fare. While we m ei c thus situated, the fire-works were announced, and wishing to see the whole economy of these gordens, I went to view thorn. They were splendid. On my return I found my friend had got a second bowl of arrack ; and observing two or three men in the highland dress, he invited them to join us, and ordered a third bowl. While we were thus engaged, n band of music, over head, struck up Rutbe- murche's Rant, and a ring being formed among the spectators, a number of gentlemen and ladies danced Scots reels. This giive my friend, who was a great Scotsman, fresh animation, and he be- gan to flourish away, and draw comparisons between his country- men and the English that I did not at all like, and proposed that we should immediately go home. Having assented to this, I left him to adjust and settle the bill, while I went to sec the water- works. On my return I found him embroiled with some of the natives, whom he was denouncing as a set of tailors ; and the bill wns still unsettled. I instantly paid it, and looked round for my friend — but he was gone. On making enquiiy fpr him of the by-standers, I was told that he had been committed to the watch-house ; and it was with great difficulty that I escaped being implicated as an ac- complice. Having, with considerable address, cleared myself from the imputation, I at last prevailed with some of his antagonists to conduct me to the watch-house, where I found my friend caged up, and declaiming against the English with most dreadful vociferation. At^er several hours trouble, in the dead ot night, with watch- men, constables, Bi)w-street runners, &c. &c. I at last succeeded in getting him out oi durance vilcy and we made the best of ourwoy to the London coffee-house, which we reached at 3 o'clock in the morning; and here I made a vow that I would never after accom- pany a Scotsman to Vauxhall gardens, unless I previously knew that he had so far divested himself of national prejudice as to pay an equal respect to Englishmen- as to those of his own country. ^^1 \ i ■sasT — 254 TRAVIitS IK /'.. V .jnio '^■ CHAPTER LIV. ■'*''''/^> London^ — Oxford, — Birmingham, — S/irewsbuty, — Liverpool. L LEFT London on the evening of the 18th of August, by the mail coach, and travelling all night, passed through Uxbridge, Stockton, and Oxford, where is the celebrated university ; but I could see nothing of it at the hour we passed. We continued our course through Woodstock, Shipton, and Stratford ; and at 10 o'clock on the 19th we arrived at Birmingham, distant from Lon* don 116 miles. Birmingham is situated in the middle of a fertile and populous country, and is, in point of population, the fourth town in England, its inhabitants amounting to 73,670. Part of the the town lies low, and the houses are mean and unsightly ; but a considerable por- tion is elevated, and abounds with handsome houses. The hard- ware manufactures of Birmingham are unrivalled, and vast quanti- tities of goods of all descriptions have been made up annually for the American market. The works of Bolton and Watt arc at So- ho, in this neighbourhood, and are in a state of organization pro- bably superior to any other in the world. It is calculated that since the introduction of their improved steam engine, the labour saved ,hy it alone, in Britain, amounts to 20 millions sterling annually. "' The trade of Birmingham is greatly facilitated by canal naviga- tion, which is here very complete ; affording a water eommuiii- cation to London, Hull, Liverpool, and Bristol, and throughout the whole interior of the country. From Birmingham I travelled to Shrewsbury, in company with a Mr. James, a civil engineer who resides in 'Warwickshire ; and as the country through which we passed abounded with mines of coal, iron, and beds of lime- stone, I derived a good deal of information from him. He stated that the yearly income arisng from the mine^, in the counties of Warwick and Stafford, was Incredible, and the number of hands employed in the bowels of the earth was immense. The business was remarkably well systematized, he observed, and was highly conducive to the progress of knowledge and liberality of sentiment. Even the minds of the common workmen were affected by a view of the grand operations of nature in the heart of the earth, and they had a degree of intelligence, and a spirit of independence» BM6LANO. 1355 quite different from the workmen in the manufacturing towns. I found this gentleman's company very agreeable, in a journey to- gether of 46 miles, when we arrived at Shrewsbury. Shrewsbury is situated on the river Severn, and is a place of considerable trade, but the streets are narrow, and it exhibits no very handsome appearance. Being in one of the counties adjoin- ing Wales, it is well calculated for the woollen trade, and a con-r tiderable portion of its manufactures are calculated for the Ameri- can market, particularly plains and flannels. On Monday, the 21st of August, I left Shrewsbury at five o'clock, by the stage, and passed through Ellesmere, and Wrex- ham, to Chester, at which we dined. Here I had leisure to take a walk round the city, along the top of the wall with which it is surrounded, from whence there is a fine view. Some of the chief steets, are singular in their construction, being cut out of a rock, below the level of the ground ; and the houses have a portico in front, which serves for a cov€ red foot-path. The shops and ware- houses are in the sides of the rock, and on a level with the streets, to which there is occasionally an ascent by stairs. Chester is the residence of a number of people from Wales, Vith which country it carries on a considerable trade. Its population amounts to about 15,000. From Chester I continued my journey 12 miles^ through an a- greeable open country, and passing the Mersey, by a ferry-boat, I arrived in Liverpool at six o'clock in the evening. From the 22d of August to "the 3d of September, I was busily employed in Liverpool, making preperations for my embarkation to America. During this perind I had a little time for reflection on the situation of England and America ; and every thing seemed to portend inost important coui^equences. The British administra- tion appeared determined to adhere to the n6w system of blockade; and they were backed by the whole power and influence of the tory party, including the shipping interest, the monied interest, and all the placemen and pensioners in the country. Their oppo- nents of the whig party, though firm to their principles, were fee- ble and dispirited ; and thus, secure in power and influence, and having a very slender opposition, it was not reasonable to be ex- pected that they would abandon a measure which formed a most important part of their system of policy. On the other hand, I was well convinced that the American government would set up, .■:j i ., 1 1 i y 256 TRAVEL ON Wrf uiid persevere in, a resistance of some kind, while these orders con- tinued. From a view of the recent measures of that country, in. deed, it was impossible to form nn opinion what this resistance would be ; but I was well aware, upon the whole, that the conse* qucnccs resulting from the interruptions of commerce, would tend much to weaken the connection between the two countries, and that America would every day become more independent of Britaiiu : CHAPTER LV. ' Liverpool^ — Banks of N^vofoundland^ — Neva York, Having finished my busmess in Liverpool, I engaged apa«< hage for myself and son by the Pacific, captain Staunton, for New York. , . •' . The other passengers were two merchants of New York ; two Yorkshire merchants; a Liverpool merchant, "who called himself un American citizen ; and a merchant of Savannah in Georgia, We had also the captain and two mates of the ship Manhattan, which had been sold in Liverpool. The passengers had agreed to rendezvous at the King's Arms. tavern on the evening before the vessel sailed, at 10 o'clock, to go on board together, as she was to weigh anchor very early in the morning. I had to step out of town a little way to transact some business with a friend, and the night being dark and wet, it wa» a little past the appointed hour before we got to the place of ren- dezvous. The company were gone, and we had to trudge through Liverpool in quest of a boat, but none was to be found. It was quite dark and rainy ; and wet, perplexed, and disappointed, we were lauded in a small ale-house, on one of the wharfs, at 1 o'clock in the morning. The landlord was a good-natured man, and used every cflbrt to get us on board, but without eflect : and I really began to be apprehensive that we would lose our passage. At length an Irish sjiilor came in from a neighbouring vessel to get a pint of ale, and the landlord whispered to me, that if I spoke hint fair^ perhaps he could get me on board. I thought the fairest way of speakig him would be to use his own style, and assumed tht character of a countryman in distrcssj, which produced an imme- diate effect on Paddy's feelings, and he told me if Morgan would /. I )**^' ,._.-r^-U'" THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. 257 ese orders con- it country, in- this resistance that the conse- cc, would tend intrics, and that t of Britaiiu %v York. [ engaged apaii- [1 Staunton, for New York; two vho called himself iiuah in Georgia, ship Manhattan, the King's Arms . 10 o'clock, to go very early in the V to transact some c and wet, it was the place of ren- te trudge through be found. It was disappointed, we the vvhaifs, at I ;ood-naturcd man, hout eflect : and 1 lose our passage uringvesseltogeta hat if I spoke him ighttbefliirestway , and assumed tht produced an imme- if Morgan wouU go, he would. He culled Morgan, who, with considerable reluc- tance, complied. The next difficulty was to find the vessel; for it was nearly as dark as pitch, and we had to go about three miles up the river. I did not wish to talk much, for fear that my speech "would bewray me," and, as good luck would have it, I did not need, for the very first ship we hailed was the Pacific. I paid the Irishmen for their trouble, and vo went on board. As they were starting from the vessel, 1 heard onr say, "Faith, Pat, I believe he is a Scotsman after all." " Well, well, it does not signify," says the other, " what he is ; he has done the fair thing by us, anyhow." , ' ;7 ., , ., , , . " Tut," said I, "aro we not all relations?" . .'-' Slcr7ie. ■ ■■ ■ • -^ On the morning of the 3d of September, the ship got under weigh, at 3 o'clock, and the wind being fair, we were round the rock by 5 ; and at 6, discharged the pilot. The breeze continue cd from the north-east, and we had a fine run. At 7 o'clock, we were up with the point of Ayr ; at 10, at Great Ormshead ; at 12 we passed Skerries-light, and shaped our course to the south-west, through St. George's channel. A vast number of ships came out of the river along with us, but we had lost sight of them" all, ex- cept the John Bull, a fine English ship; she kept in sight of us all the way out of the channel, although the Pacific considerably outsailed her. v We passed Cape Clear on the 5th, after wliich wc haassage, I made some remarks on the formation of these banks, which my present observations tended to corroborate. I had heard » great deal of the fisheries on them ; but, notwithstanding I had crossed them twice, 1 never saw any thing of the fishing vessels, iior did we take any fish. This great bank is about 330 miles in length, from south to north, antl about 75 in breadth, from east to west. The depth of water on it, is from 15 to 60 fathoms. The fishery commences about the 10th of May, and continues till the end of September. The cod is cured in two ways ; one by drying them, the oiher by putting them up in pickle. The fisheries arc computed to yield upwards of ^.300,000 sterling, annually, for the suj)ply of the Catholic countries alone; and such is the immense supply offish, that, notwithstanding the annual drain, there is no sensible dinii< nution. After leaving the banks, we had a series of west and north-west winds, which sent us beyond the Gulf Stream, and as far to the southward as the latitude ot 37° 30', where we found the weather very warm, the thermometer rising to 78° and 80°. The weather was clear and fine, and the moon being in a fa- vourable position, we had lunar observations on dificrent morn- ings. The result we found to be very correct ; a proof of the great importance of the application of astronomy to one of the most useful arts. The wind shifted back again to the southward, and we bore a- way to the north-west, until the 6th of October, when we took a fair wind, which carried us to the Jersey shore on the 8tb, 40 miles south of the light-house. We had a southerly wind, and were running to the northward, and would soon hnve made San- dy Hook, bat night came on, and we were deceived by a liglit, which we mistook for a light-house; in consequence of which, we f,i' /r*i >; ^jgaet- 'T" -Ky* ^«r « ^ p r ii t <-^ ^» *Ht <» i.it^ . '^'^ TSc THE ATLANTIC OCRAN. 259 s strong as ever. lis way on some I frequent and of ndous storms of ed to be on the jr, and the ther- 72°, fell to 56*' e were nearly at On my former ti of these banks, •rate. 1 had heard thstanding I had he fishing vessels, th, from south to 2st. The depth of fishery commences end of September, hem, the oihcrby computed to yield the supply of the lense supply of fish, s no sensible dim!- vest and north-west ;am, and as far to here we found the 78° and 80°. oon being in a fa- on difl'ercnt morn- ?ct ; a proof of the lomy to one of the id, and we bore a- ;r, when we took a ore on the 8th, 40 southerly wind, ami ,on hrtve made Sun- deceived by o lij;''*' [jucnce of which, we lay to for the night. Next morning, at day-break, we set sail, and soon described tlie high lands, aad ailerwards the light-house ; and between 2 and 3 o'clock in the afternoon wc received a pilot. We flocked round the pilot to learn the news, and were inform- ed, that the non-intercourse was again enforced by proclamation ; and that the American government were very much dissatisfied with the British for not executing Mr. Ersk I nc's treaty. On this subject, however, I soon found that there was a considerable dif- ference of opinion; indeed, some of the American newspapers, which we perused, justified the British government in every step, condemning that of America and' Mr. Erskine; and one of our company, an American citizen too, oj^enly avowed that he could have no confidence in the government, unless there was a king at the head of it : even Mr. Jefferson, he believed, would have acted a much better part, had he been king of America. The passengers were upon the whole agreeable, and captain Staunton was one of the most obliging shipmasters 1 have ever been at sea with. He was well provided in a mate and good sailors, and every thing on board the vessel was conducted with great propriety. The cabin was remarkably well furnished, and we fared sumptuously all the way. ' : • « - ' ' « Having crossed the bar, we proceeded up the channel with a light but fair breeze, and at 5 o'clock passed the Narrows, and stood in for the quarantine ground. Here we were visited by Lang and Turner, editors of the New York Gazette, who by their indefatigable attention to the shipping trade of the port of New York, have deserved well of their country, and have been amply rewarded by a very respectable patronage and support to their paper. Connected with this establishment is that of the Mercantile Ad- vertiser, the editors of which pay one half of the expense of pro- curing the shipping intelligence, and, of course, receive the same information as the Gazette; and so attentive are the parties to the business, that Mr. Lang has a house at the quarantine ground, where he resides with his family during the summer, and speaks every vessel that comes into port. By this means the shipping irt- tclligence in these two papers is: early and authentic, and they 'c are the most respectable mercantile registers in New York. We were only a few minutes here when the health officer came on board, who, finding all well, gave us a bill of health, and «w .A>^ .<*«' 5gi 7 • 260 ' TRAVELS IN set sail up the bay, and landed at the wharf at 8 o'clock. I im- mediately waited upon my friends, Mr. and Mrs. Stewart, from whom I had, as before, a friendly welcome. fvv I '% '0 .V(*.? J CHAPTER LVI. New York, — Philadelphia^ — Sava7inah. 1 CONTINUED in New York until the 11th of November, when, having some business to attend to in Philadelphia, I set out for that city in the mail stage. We left New York at 1 o'clock in the afternoon, and next morning at 5 o'clock we reach- ed Philadelphia, distant 97 miles. My business here was in friendly hands, and I got it arranged to my satisfaction in a short time, when I had a few. days to spend with my friends. At the house where I lodged, a gentleman some- times culled to spend the evenings. My friend and he were two of the most extensive and respectable merchants in Philadelphia, and, like myself, both were concerned in the British trade.*^ We agreed in opinion as to the utility of this trade, but we differed regarding the cause of its interruption. I attributed it to what I considered the true cause, which will be readily inferred from the foregoing pages ; but my friends were inclined to attribute it to ' the hostility o'f the democratic party in America to foreign com merce. Considering this idea incorrect, I opposed it, which led to a pretty long discussion, in which I had occasion to state . the view I took of foreign commerce generally, and the importance of the relations between America and Britain. My friends assented to the correctness of my opinion, but insisted that it was so oppo- site to that of the democratic party, that, were I to draw it up, and send it to a democratic newspaper, it would not be inserted. Considering this a very good plan to bring the matter to the test, I drew up an essay, which received their approbation. It was \ sent to the Aurora, and; two days thereafter, made its appearance V';in that paper.* * While I staid at Plliladelphia, the negociations with the Brit- ish minister, Mr. Jackson, were broken off, and it clearly ap- peared to me, that nothing but the ascendancy of the whig partj '^, • See Appendix, No. IV. ' ^^^n^ GBORGfA. 261 lock. I im* tewart, from )f November, (lelphia, I set iw York at 1 )ck we reach- ot it arranged days to spend ntleman some- he were two Pliiladelphia, ih trader We )ut we differed it to what 1 ferred from the attribute it to foreign com Id it, which led Ion to state the importance of friends assented |it was so oppo- ;o draw it up, lot be inserted. Iter to the test, lation. It was its appearance I with the Brit- it clearly ap- Ihe whig party in Britain would prevent a war ; but from the intelligence which I received from Britain, public and private, I thought it extreme- ly probable that this ascendancy would soon take place; at any rate, I considered it would inevitably follow the appointment of the prince of Wales as regent, and that event was daily expected. I was guided by this view in my commercial arrangements, and took my measures accordingly. ' ,, , . • ' From Philadelphia 1 returned to New York, and from thence went by sea to Savannah, where I arrived on the 17th of Decem- ber, without meeting any adventure worth recording. On my arrival in Savannah, I found matters in a dreadful state. The stock of goods was disassorted, and would not bring half the original value ; and the other funds, consisting chiefly of outstand- ing debts, if ever they would be collected at all, it could only be done at a labour, expense, and loss of time, that would probably be greater tliah the ultimate value of them. A great many of them were in suit, and the courts of law were suspended, so that the recovery by that process was very tedious and uncertain. Our debtor^ amounted to the amazing number of 185, and they were so scattered over the land, that they occupied a space of nearly 200 miles square. . Some landed property belonged to the con- cern, and some negroes, (a species of commodity wliich I never wished to deal in,) and these had fallen in value. We had also a store, 220 miles in the interior of the country; but it' held out no better prospect : while our American debts were large and urgent, a great portion of them custom-house bonds. I was absolutely sickened when I looked into the books, where I had nothing to contemplate but the wrecks of a ruined estate, and the fragments of it scattered to and fro throughout the land ; so that no time could be fixed for its being eventually wound up. However, there was nothing for it but to arm myself with resolution ; and, after three months most ardent application, I got it reduced to some sort of order, and, having made a new arrangement with my partner to carry on a commission business, while the old concern was winding up, I set out on a collecting tour, taking in my way the store up the country. A few of the observations which I made on my journey shall be communicated in the next chapter. ■ , ■ 'iM.. :,: ,, . ■ •-■ • , •'.-■-'. f*..^ ■'::.-;;' .-•■' .. . < " ,•-.'•,.„'_.,:' h:-'. ^v U I . V V 26Z tRA^ELS IN -^ •r' CHAPTER LVII. r ; f I ) A Savannah, — Louisville^ — Greenshurg^ — Augusta. On the 2d of April I left Savannah, on horseback, at 5 o'clock in the afternoon. A youn^ gentleman in a chair accompanied me, and we took the road to Louisville. The weather was warm and sultry. We travelled 18 miles through a low marshy country, abounding in thick woods, but having a thin population, to Powell's, and here we stopped for the night. About 11 o'clock, there was a thunder-gust to the south -cast; the wind shifted to the north-west, and the weather became suddenly cold. April 3d, we travielled through a wretched looking country 12 miles, to breakfast; and 12 miles further to dinner, part of the way through pine barrens. The country was now a little more elevated, but the soil poor and sandy, and so continued 20 miles, to Jones', where we stopped for the night. Jones has a thriving plantation, and a fine peach orchard. April 4th, we travelled through a country nearly similar to that we passed yesterday, 14 miles, when, entering Burke county, we met with more improvements, and saw many fine peach orchards, and tl^e trees being in blossom, formed a very agreeable contrast to the barren wastes around them. At 6 o'clock in the evening, we reached Louisville, 100 miles from Savannah. I found the seat of government had been removed to Milledgeville ; but my friend Dr. Powell still remained at this place ; and I passed a very agreeable evening with his family. The doctor was not at home, and I regretted much that I had not an opportunity of thanking him for his kindness and attention when I was here before. April 5. At half past 8 o'clock we set out for Sparta. A mile from Louisville, we passed c considerable stream calle'^. Rocky Comfort, where there are a number of mills ; and this being the boundary between the high and low country, the scenery now becomes more variegated. Five miles beyond this the road forks ; we took the right-hand road, but it was the wrong one, and led lis six miles out of our way, through a barren country. Tha country improves towards the Ogeeche river, which we crossed at the Shoals, and here there are several important mills. The banks of the river are steep and rocky, and the soil in the neigii- 4 OBOROIA. 263 bourhood is pretty fertile, producing wheat, corn, &c. After crossing the river, we passed over vast mosses of rock, and, travel- ling I4i miles, we reached Sparta, towards which the soil improves, and there is a pretty fertile country round it. Sparta is a small town, but until of late it had n very flourishing commerce, and a great deal of mercantile business was transacted in it. It has now, in consequence of the stoppage of foreign com- merce, suffered most severely. Many of the merchants, and country people, cannot pay their debts ; and the winding up of the business, through the medium of the courts of law, has pro- ducet ^ -„!_-♦ ,.,»^J^ ■ f - f f 1 ^ IT si :^l S64 TRAVELS IN miles beyond this, through n country nearly siaiihtr, is the Appa- Inchy. These two rivers are very fine strcnnis, nnd 1 passed both by boats. From the Appolachy to Mount Vernon, I travelled ] 1 nnles in the new purchase, and I was really surprised to observe the number of settlements that had been made in the short space of four years. The greater part of the lots were disposed of, and I was hardly ever out «)f sight of a plantation. 1 lie surface of the country is agreeably uneven, abounding in springs and small rivulets, and, from the appearance of the people, I have no doubt but the country is very healthy. I spent several days in this place, on one of which I went to Madison, the county-town, six miles from Mount Vernon. Thii was laiil out only a year before, yet it is now a thriving place, having a court-house, a number of dwelling-houses, three taverns, and as many stores. On die 15th of April, I left this district, on my return to Greensburg. On my arrival there, I found the inhabitants in a state of alarm. Advice had just been received, that a letter had been found in the state of Virginia, dated from Greensburg, stating that all was ready in Georgia, and recommending prompt measures to be pursued in executing the work in Virginia. It was presumed that the work alluded to was the assassination of the white people. The alarm being given, it had spread through tliC' country in all directions ; and the people had adopted measures of precaution. At this place the guards paraded the streets all night. . . - On the 16th, at 12 o'clock, I left Greensburg for Augusta, ac- Qompanied by a doctor of medicine, a very intelligent gentleman, who lived 16 miles below Greensburg. While we travelled to- gether we had p good deal of conversation regarding the present alarm in the country, concerning which we made inquiry at all the settlements we passed, and of all the people we saw. Wc found that some of them were a good deal alarmed ; otbTS con- kidered that there was no danger ; and some ridiculed the whole as an idle tale. But they all thought there was a propriety in taking measures of precaution. , , I was satisfied, upon the whole, that the alarm was greater than the danger ; and that there never can be a successful organization of the black people against the whites, upon a large scale, in peorgia; nor indeed in any part of the United States, A short ia the Appa- 1 passed both I travelled 1 1 led to observe ic short space loosed of, and Llie surface of ngs and small lave no doubt lich I went to k^'crnon. This hriving place, three taverns, my return to (habitants in ii .t a letter had I Grccnbburg, ending prompt rginia. It was ination of the, id through die- )pted measures the streets all •r Augusta, ac- ent gentleman, fc travelled to- ing the present inquiry at all we saw^. ^Vc il; oth'-rs con- uled tho whole a propriety in iras greater than tul organization arge scale, in tates. A short GIORGIA. 265 glance At the subject may be uteful, bccaiu>e I found that it was generally supposed in Britain, that the southern states would be eventually destroyed in this way. By the census of 1800, I find that all the slaves north of the state of Delaware, amount to only 135,516; being such a small proportion t6 the white inhabitants, that they can have no influ- ence ; and as a gradual abolition is going on, the proportion iti diminishing every year. In those states where slovery exists in full force, the relative num- bers, in 1 800, stood as in the following table : Free Persons. Slaves, Delaware 58,130 6,143 Maryland 211,985 107,707 Virginia 534,390 345,796 Kentucky 180,602 . 40,843 N. Carolina 334,807 133,296 • S. Carolina 199,340 146,151 Georgia 102,989 59,699 Tennessee 92,018 13,584 1,744,267 852,699 Fromr this table it appears that the free people outnumber the slaves about two to one ; and we cannot suppose that ever the pro- portion on the side of the slaves will be greater than it is now, more especially when we consider that all importation has ceased. Hence the mere physical strength is above two to one on the side of the white people ; and those who possess-any degree of intel- ligence among the negroes are fully aware of this, and must know that any attempt at insurrection would end in their own destruction. It is only by men of intelligence among them, heading an insurrec- tion, that they could have any chance at all. But, in the next place, the whole artificial strength of the country is in the hands of the white people ; and when we consider that a single des^ ot, at the head of a band ot armed men, comparatively few, can rule a whole country with a rod of iron, we can calculate what effect an attempt on the part of one third of a nation in a state of slavery, without arms, without ammunition, without e Jucation, or the power of holding conversation with one another by wiitinjj ; 34 . /■ ,-U,. ■^":*' A ( * % ' ( >, » J66 TRAVELS IN we cnn calculate whnt effect nn attempt on their part would have to destroy the other two thirds, who have every advantage that the others want. It has been supposed that the slaves could organize a plan to as- tiaisinatc the white people, and to pertbnn the whole in one night. The tiling is inipos^sible. No plan of this kind can be organized on n large scale without detection; ond the power to organize such a plun by the slaves in these states, is so limited as hardly to merit notice. Besides all this, there is probably hardly a family in the United States where there is not one or more of the slaves attached to them from some personal consideration. The women, in parti- cular, are a great many of them employed in the capacity of domes- tic servants, and some of them areas much in the confidence of their mistresses as ladies' maids are in England ; others have nursed the children ; and the whole have less or more associated with the ^vhite children when yomig. These are all so many tics of affection, which but n small majority among the negroes, I believe, would be wil- ling to break in order to organize rebellion ; and it will be perceiv- ed that a single discovery, by one slave, leads to a detection of a whole plot. . * , But indeed it appears to me that the blacks are in general a good- natured, well disposed, peaceable people; and nothing but ill usage, so extreme as to drive them to a state of desperation^ could ever bring about any general plan for the assassination of the white people. There may be particular local circumstances of revolt; but none is ever to bo apprehended of a nature sufficient to endanger the safe- ty >)f the southern states, or of any one individual state. Having travelled 30 miles through a pretty pleasant country, I arrived in the evening at Washington, which is a pleasant little town, containing about 100 houses; and the fields in its neighbour- hood arc in a high state of cultivation. April 17th. I left Washington at day-light, and at ten reached Ilay'o mills, a handsome settlement on a considerable stream of wa- ter. Having some little business to transact here, I stopped all day. The people in the house where I lodged had a very extensive ma- nufactory of homespun ; and they were all substantially clad in cot- ton cloth of their own manufacture, some of it elegant. On the 18th I travelled 16 miles, through a pretty good country, to Columbia Courf- House, a small place, handsomely situated, 22 miles wi si from Augusta, -,. ^— - C CORGI A. M7 On the 19lh I travelled through a country nearly similar to that J passed through thedny hetorc; towards Augusta the soil is good, and the country improves in appearance, being in a high state of cultivation. I reached Augusta at twelve o'clock, and, being a place I always admired, I stopped here some dayn. One of my first calls was on my old friend the Major, with whom I travelled from New York to Boston, four years before ; and we spent a few hours together, in which we recounted our adventures on Long Island sound. The gentleman with whom I lodged having a taste for natural philosophy, chemistry, and mechanics, I had al- ways a rich intellectual feast on my return to my lodgings. I left Augusta on the 26th for llichmoiid springs, where I saw my old friend the poet, and his sable mistress, with whom I lodged two days, and then passed over to Waynesborough, where being hospi- tably entertained a few days by some very respectable planters in that neighbourhood, I set out fur Savannah on the 3d of May, in company with two very agreeable friends, and arrived on the 5th at noon. During this journey to the upper country, I made every inquiry that I could regarding the state of its commercial concerns, and I was satisfied that it had undergone a great revolution since I was in the country before. The staple commodity of the state is cotton, and it had so fallen in value as to cut ofTupwards of one third of the income of the country. It followed that the inhabitants must cur- tail their expenditure in proportion. I accordingly found that all the people in the interior of the country were clothed in homespun. In almost every family a cotton manufactory was to be seen, and in some instances thdy had introduced spinning upon a pretty large scale, by jennies. At a parade of the militia, at Augusta, I was told that out of 500 men only two were to be found who had a single article of British manufacture about them. It had become fashion- able every where to wear homespun ; and from the very substantial stuff the people were making, and the agreeable employment it af- forded to the young vomen of the country, I was convinced that this trade would encreasc, probably to nearly the total exclusion of British goods from the state. This was far from being flattering to me; and the commission business, in which wc had embarked, was much ait'ected by the low price of cotton, and the general dull state of trade. Having, therefore, very little to do, I confided the busi- ness to the management of my partner, and set out for the northern states, by way of Charleston. . . w 'Y.'-' *~*^i ^66 TRAVELS IN I i,^ i 1; >^. m «. 1 (I 1 , ) ', m ^,. ., CHAPTER LVIIl. Charleston^ — New Yorkj — Philadelphia, — Statcji Island. On the 9th of June I left Savannah, with my old friend, captain Cooper, in the Delight. The weather was exceedingly sultry, and we had a light southerly breeze down the river, but we were favour- ed by the tide, and got to sea before dark, when a fine breeze sprung up, and we reached Charleston light-liouse by day-light. At 8 o'clock, we landed in the citv. Here I was invited to lodge with a friend, M'hich was a fortunate circumstance, for I had been but a short time in the city when I was seized with a fever ; but by timely attention and good nursing I got clear of it in the course cf a few days. During my stay here I went to see Sullivan's Island : in our way we passed the fortifications, where considerable repairs and altera- tions had taken place ; and it was presumed the harbour was now in a very respectable state of defence. Sullivan's Island is an excel- lent summer retreat, and is open on all sides to the sea breeze, so that it is entirely free from every vestige of marsh or putrid effluvia, and consequently from all epidemical sickness. On Sunday, the 1 7th June, I went on board the Eliza, captain Leslie, for New York. This was a very handsome vessel, remark- ably well found in every respect, and she was on this occasion crowd- ed with passengers, having no less than 24. On crossing the bar we put to sea with a north-east wind, which sent us a considerable way to the south of our course; and after being beat about with head winds for several days, we took a heavy gale from the south-east, which nearly put us ashore on Cape Look-out shoals. The gale subsided, but we had still head winds until the 26th, when near Cape Hattcras, we took a fair wind, which carried us into New York on the 30th, Nothing material occurred in this city until the 4-th of July, when the anniversary of independence was celebrated with great splendor, and was equally attended to by both the political parties. The fe- deral procession consisted principally of the Washington and Ha- milton Societies, in number TOO or 800 ; that o( the republicans was composed of the Tammany Society, Manhattan Society, r^d the dif- fc'rint trade*' societies in the cif^v. The processions were conduct- ■.Hi>j|ii»*W -.,./-,.... „ NEW YOBK. 269 ed respectively to difTcrcnt churches, where, after prayer, the de- claration of independence was read, and an oration delivered, ac- companied with scYcral pieces of appropriate vocal and instrun^en- tal music. An outward display of great festivity was exhibited all over the city, by firing guns, ringing bells, with military and other proces- sions ; and the evening was sp«nt generally in a social manner, by different societies and private circles. In every party tliey had a re- gular series of 17 toasts', one for each state, and a number of volun- teer toasts from the company. These toasts were very sentimental, and mav be considered as a very good barometer for discovering the particular political opinions of the party. ' Having no particular bui^iness in the citj', I went to live a few wtcks on Long Island, which is a delightful sunnner residence. During this time I took a jaunt as far as Jamaica, a pretty little vil- lage, 12 miles to the eastward of New York, and by the finest road I had yet seen in America. The settlements by the way are very handsome, and some of the buildings are elegant. A numb<:r of ve- ry respectable inhabitants, some of whom are merch.'idnts of New York, reside in Jamaica ; and it has a seminary tor education, es- teemed one of the best in the state. The country round is very pleasant, and to the north is a ridge of hills from whence there is a very fine view of the adjacent country, and a considerable distance out at sea. Having spent a day at this place, I returned in the e- vening by Newtown, a pleasant little village near East river. In the whole circuit 1 found the tides of the road clad with fruit-trees, and the crops of fruit very abundant. About this time I fell in with a gentleman from Scotland, who was in expectation of a considerable quantity of goods in the fall, and we agreed to transact business together during that season, vitli a view of a more permanent connexion, if the trade continu- ed open. Having, previous to this, determined to remain in America, I had written to my family, and expected them early in tl»e fall ; and, in order to receive them, I took lodgings at the qua- riintir.c ground, on Staten Island; and having stationed my son in our now lodgings, I accompanied two of our New York friends to Pliili.ileipliia. ^\'c travelled by the mall stage, and were determined to be merry. One of our members, b«ing a limb of the law, made some very auimated dissertations, legal, logical, moral and critical, to { M'l I .A : > .^' ' k' f 270 TEAVfeLS IV I ' t»i/ \- i r m the great edification of the company. A young Englishman mani- fested his national feelings, by assuring us of the great demand for Henglish goods at ome ,• and expatiated on the unimportance of the American trade ; but some of us knew better. However, he was a pleasant c'ompanion, and joined in our amusements with much satisfaction. In the course of our journey, we encountered a stage full of people, some of whom, we were informed, had been at a camp meeting; and a preacher from New York, M'ho had some time be- fore been interdicted by the corporation from disturbing the peace of that city by his eccentricities, sat in the front of the carriage. A good many witticisms were passed on this circumstance, and on the nature of camp meetings, and the facility with which certain members of the comnumity could accommodate themselves wiih partners, and soforth. This occasioned a good deal of laughter in both stages ; but the zealous man, retaining all his gravity, assured us there would be no laughter in hell. It was one of those quaint remarks which excites no novel idea ;'^ut yet it produced much merriment, a proof that there is a time for all things under the sun; and assuredly serious allusions to the place just mentioned do not suit a stage-travelling audience. Having arrived in Philadelphia without fu. ther accident than the loss of a hat, I remained in that fine city some days, and returned by the steam boat line. This being the first time I travelled by the steam boat, it furnish- ed much subject for remark. The extent of the works, the mag- nitude of the waters over which we had to travel, the scenery on the land, the order and economy on board the boats and in the over-land stages, all excited my admiration ; and this being a routi very much travelled, it may be gratifying to go a little into detail, by a short sketch of the journey. We went on board the steam boat, in the Delaware river, at 7 o'clock in the inorning. The boat immediately started from the wharf, and moved majestically through the wator, at the rate of 7 miles an liour. As the boat was perfectly easy in her motion, I had a good opportunity of examining her works, and of observ- ing the application of them to p/oduce motion in the boat. The engine was constructed on Bolton and Watt's plan, and the power was communicated through the medium of a walking beam of a peculiar coui^lruction, adapted to the boat, and from thence to *i'-J w tliman mani< demand for tance of the er, he was a with much itagc full of en at a camp ime time bc- ig the peace the carriage. mce, and on hich certain tnselvcs wilh ' laughter in vity, assured those quaint duced much nder the sun; ioned do not lent than the uid returned it, it furnish- es, the niag- le scenery on ts and in the being a rout^ e into detail, re river, at 7 ted from the the rate of 7 ler motion, I id of observ- ; boat. The nd the power a beam of a om thence to PENNSYLVANIA. 2?^ wheels on each side, something like mill wheels, which, by a rota- tory motion through the water, impelled the boat the contrary way, producing precisely the same effect as oars. The boat was suffi- ciently capacious to carry 100 passengers, and was fnrnished with every requisite for boarding and lodging, that could be obtained in a good tavern. IJy this conveyance we travelled to Bordentown, a delightful situation, 30 mile« from Philadelphia. Here wc were accommo- dated with stages, which conveyed us across Jersey, 36 miles, to New Bruiiswick, where we stopped all night. Next morning we set out at 6 o'clock, by another steam boat, for New York. This boat was much larger than that on the Delaware, and her stram works were somewhat diiiercnt in the construction, but the principle was precisely the same. We sailed along the Rariton with great majesty, and arriving at Perth Amboy, we took in some passengers, when we took a course through a naiiow arm of the sea, that runs between Staten Island and the Jersey shore. Having no particular bu^ess at New York till the fall goods would arrive, I landed at Staten Island, which I found to be a most agreeable place in the summer season. The quarantine ground is handsomely situated, on the east side of the island, on a small bav, about a mile and a half above the narrows. The land here rises boldly from the shore, and is perfectly healthy. A con- siderable piece of ground is enclosed for the health offices ; and the health officer, and his asssistant, reside within the enclosure. Con- tiguous to it an officer of the the customs resides ; and in the neighbourhood area number of respectable families. Mr. Lang, for* nierly mentioned, and his family, reside here in the summer season. There was, upon the whole, a very social circle at this place, em- bellished by a number of handsome young ladies ; and we had many agreeable parties. Our society was often augmented by visi^irs trom New York, and strangers arriving at the quarantine ground ; so that the variety of sentiment among us, religious and jiolitical, was in proportion to our numbers; but it never interfered with our social harmony. Religion and politics are two of the most im- jiurtant concerns of mankind ; — the one embracing his interest* now, and the other hereafter; and in proportion as people feel a lively interest in both, they will l.ocome the topics of conversa- tion. »' Out of the abundance of the heart the mouth speaketli." But they are subjects which admit oi a jjreat variety of sentiniei;t. v /'• n„ W •^ .^" ^ff-i*- ^r 27^ THAVELS IN i;-; H^i and on which mankind will never think alike. Hence it is of im- portance that they be discussed temperately, and with deference to the feelings of each other. One of the most important circum- stances in discussing them, is to avoid all personal abuse, more especially of public characters. In a popular government, no man can be appointed to a public station, without having the voice of a majority in his favour, real or implied. To call him names, therefore, and to load him with all manner of reproaches, is just to abuse, at second hand, those who have appointed him, of whom your political antagonist may be one. It is often so viewed, and anger and strife ensue; and thus, a discussion that, properly managed, might be conducive to promote knowledge and informa- tion, becomes often the means of raising the whirlwind of passion, and of destroying the peace qf society. f I. > dvi 4 i It CHAPTER LIX. New Yor/,; — Commercial Vieucs. I. HE expected goods arrived early in the fall, and in grcatef quantity than was at first calculated on, and there was a very good fall trade, so that I was pretty busily employed in New York, till the month of Novembei', when I was delighted by the safe arrival of my family. I was now most anxious to settle in Nevv York, in ij mercantile capacity, and there seemed to be a considerable proba- bility that I wouUl be able to accomplish that object. The ncgo- ciations between America and Britain were continued, and bad been so long protracted, that I was inclined to think all interrup- tions would be done away. Indeed the American government liml l)laced her foreign* relations ou a footing by which the Englisli ministry could get an ascendancy over France on terms so easy, that, shaken as my confidence in them was, I could not imnginc but that they would embrace it. America had opened her tradi; to both belligerents, accompanied by a d(;claration, that on ;iny one of them withdrawing their unjust edicts, so far as they inter- fered with her neutrality, she would immediately entbice the non- intercourse act against the other. Both parties had expressed tlie utmost good-will towards America, and asserted that the oditti weic only meant to annoy the trade of each other; alleging thai U KEW YORK. 273 •ms so easy, America could not reasonably complain that it accidentally inter- fered with her trade, as she had not set up the proper resistance. It was impossible that America could set up a resistance to both, in any other way than by withdrawing from the ocean altogether, which was a resistance that might be made, and had been made for s time ; but it could not be endured for ever. It was a sacrifice without an object ; she could in that case' have no trade. She therefore came to the resolution of resisting any one of them, on getting the freedom of the seas restored, as far as it had been ob- structed, by the other. How eagerly then would a w ise ministry have seized this opportunity of cultivating the friendship of a great and growing nation, whose trade is of sucli importance to Britain ; and of putting their deadly enemy in the wrong in the face of the whole world ! But the sincerity of the British ministry was now brought to the test, and Bonaparte, as usual, triumphed over them and the nation. The French minister, Cimmpagny, intimated to the American minister at Paris, that the decrees were withdrawn, in these terms : " The decrees of Berlin and Milan are revoked, .^^^ and they will cease to be in force fiom the 1st of November nextj^jf^ it being understood that, in consequence of this declaration, the English shall, as they have declared they would, revoke their or- ders in council, and renounce the principles of blockade which they have attempted to establish, or that the United States, con- formably to the act of congress you have just communicated, shall cause their rights to be respected by the English." This was officially announced by the president's proclamation of the 2d of November; and, no correspouding act having taken place in England, the non-intercourse act was put in force against that country ; and thus again were ray commercial arrangements defeated. . - In the mean time I had kept up an intercourse with my partner in Savannah, and from a su})positLon that some business might be done between that port and New \ork, we tried the experiment by a small shipment fron\ each; but they were both unsuccessful, and I was satisfied that while the restrictions were continued, no beneficial trade could be carried on, at least by us, between these two ports. Indeed I was tired of the Savannph trade altogether, and anxiously wished for an opportunity to get entirely clear of it. But matters did not yet appear entirely hopeless with England. The president stated in his message to congress, that, " Toacom- 3,') i ) >' ;' •> A « . f -. v^. l*t „ :^*^'^^ I V I K ■ *A & 'i ii ]\ iA U f ■\ ' ' 274 TRAVELS IN munication from our minister at London of the revocation of tbe Berlin and Milan decrees, it was answered, that the British system would be relinquished as soon as the repeal of the French decrees should have actually taken effect, and the commerce of neutral nations have been restored to the condition in which it stood previously to the promulgation of those decrees. This pledge, although it does "not necessarily import, does not exclude the intention of relin- quishing along with the orders in council, the practice of those novel blockades, which have a like effect of interrupting our fo- reign commerce. And this further justice to the United States is the rather to be looked for, inasmuch as the blockade in question, being not more contrary to the established law of nations, than inconsistent with the rules of trade recognised by Great Britain herself, could have no legal basis, other than the plea of retaliation alleged as the basis of the orders in council." It was started in a subsequent part of the message, indeed, that, •' On the other important subjects depending between the United States and that government, no progress has been made from which an early and satisfactory result could be relied on j" yet I considered there was still a probability of the trade being opened. I thought the ministry would not surely be so mad as to persevere in a system which went to preclude the valuable manufactures of the country from a market to the extent of ten or twelve raillons sterling anrmaily ; and I went on making my arrangements to act as an agent Ibr some British manufacturers, in which I had a pro- spect of excePcrit connexions. In following up my plan relative to this branch, I was naturally led to inquire into the state of the internal manufactures of the country, and I was astonished to observe the rapid progress which they had made in the course of a few years, and the great cxtcut to which they had risen. By the secretary of the treasury's report, which was only in part, it appeared, that " the following manufactures are carried on to an extent which may be considered adequate to the supply of the United States. Wooden articles of every kind. Leather, and articles of leather. Soap, and tallow candles. , Spermaceti oil and candles. ,i ^ Flaxseed oil. «r (;.|MlM| «>• \ NEW YORK. 275 :ation of the iritish system inch decrees ;utral nations previously to lough it does tion ofrelin- tice of those pting our fe- lted States is in question, nations, than ireat Britain ofretaHation indeed, tliat, nthe United ti made from hI on j" yet I jeing opened. to persevere .nufactures of twelve noillons Tements to act % I had a pro- was naturally factures of the )ro 1/ich is laid on other articles of the same material. *' Earthen and Glciss-v:a)r. " A sufiiclcut quantity of the coarser species of pottery is made everywhere; and iulurmuliou has been received of four manufac- tories of a (iner kind lately established. One at Philadelphia, with a capital of 1 1 ,000 dollars, manufactures a species similar to that made in Staffordshire, in England ; and the others in Chester coun- ty, in Pennsylvania, in New Jersey, and on the Ohio, make va- rious kinds of queen's-vvare. " Information has been obtained of 10 glass manufactoriei, which employ about 140 glass-blowers, and make annually 27,000" boxes of window glass, containing each 100 square feet of glasa. Some of these manufactories make also green bottles and other wares ; and two works, employing together 6 glass-blowers, have been lately erected at Pittsburg, and make decanters, tumblers, and every other dcscri|)tion of flint glass of a superior quality. ' " It is inferred, that the annual product of the American manu- factures exceeds 120,000,000 dollars; and it is not improbable that the raw material used, and the provisions and other articles consumed by the manufacturers, creates a home market for agri- cultural products not very inferior to that which arises from foreign demand. . . . , ^ " The most prominent of the causes which have hitherto im- peded the progress of manufactures have been the abundance of land, compared with the population, the high price of labour, and the want of caj)ital. The superior attractions of agricultural pur- suits, the great extension of American commerce, during the late European wars, and the continuance of habits after the causes which prpduced them have ceased to exist, may also be enumerate I "i 11 I . 1j s - vil f 1) 278 THAVKIS IN ed. Several of these obstacles have, however, been removed or lessened. The cheapness of provisions had always, to a certain extent, counterbalanced the high price of manual labour; and diis is now, in many important branches, nearly superseded by the introduction of machinery. A great American capital has been acquired during the last twenty years ; and the injurious violation of the neutral commerce of the United States, by forcing industry and capital into other channels, have broken inveterate habits, and given a general impulse, to which must be ascribed the great en- crease of manufactures during the two last years." It would be tedious to enumerate the twentieth part of the in< formation, which came under my observation in corroboration of this report ; I shall, therefore, only condescend upon one single circumstance, which shows at one glance the great progress of ma- nufactures, and how little the subject may be known by those who live in the sca>ports. In the county of New York, compre- hending the whole island, there were, in 1810, only three looms; the number in the state was 33,068 ; and the general summary of the manu&ctures, in tJie^statc, was as follows : Value. ' Looms 33,068 } 'ards cloth 9,099,703 dol. 5,002,891 Tan works 867 leather 1,299,512 Distilleries 591 spirit- 1,685,794 Breweries 42 beer 340,765 Fulling mills 427 enhanced value of cloth 679,126 Paper mills 28 paper 233,268 Hat factories 124 hats 249,035 Glass works 6 glass (besides bottles) 716,820 / Powder mills 2 powder 10,040 Rope walks 18 ropes 538,000 Sugar houses 10 sugar 420,706 Oil mills 28 oil 49,283 ^ Blast furnaces 11 iron wares 205,300 !• / • Air furnaces 10 do. 156,720 Cut-nail factories 44 nails 276,932 >■ ■'■ Forges 48 iron 185,240 , Trip hammers 49 do. 40,000 llolling and slit- *) ting mills 5 1 do. 33,120 Carding machines 413 (value in clQth stated above) HI ,jLit jt» m .. ' f KEW YORK. i79 Cotton factories 26 (value not aacertaii|ed) Woollen factories (ditto) Salt 525,000 bushels 147,000 Silk 2,240 skeins ArticlcP in State Prison 60,000 The whole manuiiictures may be estimated above 17 millions of dollars, exclusive of flour, ashes, maple sugar, cyder, Sec. The aggregate of the manufactures of Pennsylvania, I found to exceed 28 millions of dollars; and they appeared every where to be approaching nearly to a supply of the internal demnml, while those of Rhode Island exceeded it, and afforded a great surplus for exportation. From these and several other circumstances wllich came under my review, I was led to believe that the trade to }3ritain, on which I had fixed my dependence, would be now so much curtailed, that it would be precarious: bnt I had been long in it ; my habits were formed to it ; and 1 was unwilling to relinquisli ii, while there was a ray of hope left. At last that ray of hope was dissipated^ The prince of Wales was appointed regent ; but, no new ministry was formed, nor any measure adopted to restore harmony between the two countries : — " I therefore calculated that internal manufactures and com- merce would, in all probability, be substituted for foreign cou)- apierce," and I resolved to shape my course acordingly. CHAPTER LX. New York, — PhiladelphiOj — Baltimore^ — Washington, Having now to fix on a new line of life, it was the subject of much rejection and study to find out which would be the best; and the result was that my affections tended most towards agriculture. I had been bred to this branch in my youth ; I had always admired it ; but 1 saw that in my own country I never could rise to complete independence in it ; I could never expect to farm my own property. When therefore a chance turned up which presented a fair prospect tor success in the commercial world, I gladly embraced it ; I waa ^or a considerable while successful in it beyond my most sanguin^ ♦'xpcctalions ; but the times became at length so onirageomly sujgu- ^ \ M w S-* ^#r. if "4>-~—-v^.t,-^'' . i t» ii.i- j .,.ii D ii ! i' <*W i j ; . ■ ^, .^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A* X^ :/. 4^' ^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 12.2 lU 140 U |I4 Photographic Sciences Corporation 4^ '^ \ ^v ;\ 23 WIST MAIN STRliT WIBSTIR,N.Y. MSM (716)I72-4S03 '^ u- f ^1 S80 TBAVBLS IM lar that my whole plans were disconcerted, and I was wofulljr dig- appointed. I had been so long out of the habit of agricultufol pur- suits that I foresaw a difficulty in resuming them, and there were several difficulties to encounter otherwise ; but, on the other hand, I knew that I could, by my own labour alone, support my family on five acres of land, if necessary ; so that we never could in that branch be absolutely destitute : and from the ease with which land can be procured in this country, I thought I could be more inde* pendendent in it than any other. I had travelled a great deal in America, but, as my pursuits were commercial, my travels were confined to the commercial districts. In an agricultural point of view, I was led to believe, from all I had heard, that the western country presented the finest field ; and at any rate it seemed to be>tif consequence to me to examine it, on ac- count of the low price of land. ^As I had always a strong desire to join objects of public utility with my private pursuits ; it now occurred that I might arrange a plan so as to give the public correct and authentic information re- garding a section of the country but imperfectly known, although of great importance ; and from a review of the information I had fdready collected, ! thought it might be u desideratum in literature to publish my travels in the Atlantic states and Britain, at the same time. I communicated my ideas on this subject to a number of my friends, and my plan having met their approbation, I resolved to under* take a pretty extended tour into the western country. With a view of fixing upon the best route, and the objects of greatest importance to be attended to, I availed myself of ail the information I could procure from books, maps, and persons who had lately visited that country; and determined to take a journey to Philadelphia and Washington, to procure the needful information regarding un* i^ttled lands, particularly those belonging to the United States. Having stationed my tamily in an agreeable and healthy situation on Long Island, l)eside excellent neighbours, I set out for Philadel* phia,by the steam boat, on the 15th of May, and arrived on the 17th. Here I was introduced to a gentleman well acquainted with land, and he procured me every information regarding the state of Penn- tylvania, and some other places; and gave me otherwise such infor- mation as greatly facilitated my after inquiries. I carried with me a letter of introduction to Mr. Latrobe, at .. 1 ■Jt^-'^ ■. Latrobe, at PENNSYLVANIA. 381 Washington} and I fortunately met with him at Philadelphia, where he was attending a meeting of the Society of Artists of the United States, of which he was one of the vice-presidents. As Mr. Latrobe was well acquainted with Mr. Gallatin, to whom he promised to introduce me, I was induced to wait a few days for his departure, and this afforded me a little more time to see this fine city. I found that it had greatly increased in size, splendour, and wealth, since I first visited it. The population had encreased in ten years from 81,000 to 111,210. Many important manufactures had been established ; and the fine arts had flourished in an emi- nent di^ree. Connected with this last subject, I was happy to find that the artists had recently formed themselves into a society, un- der the title of the Society of Artists of the United States ; and their institution is formed on such principles, and is in such a train of management, as promises to be highly useful to the progress of the arts in this country. A short account of this infant society cannot fail to be interesting. In the month of May, 1810, a number of artists and amateurs associated together at Philadelphia, and announced their inten- tion of forming this institution, from a conviction that it was re- quisite, and with a view of collecting into a focus the various talents and resources of artists, and thereby stamping a character upon the fine arts in America. At a meeting of the Society, Mr. George Murray, one of the principal engravers in Philadelphia, who had borne a very active part in forming the society, delivered an address, a few extracts from which will more particularly show the principles and design of the institution. " The primary objects of the society," says Mr. Murray, " are to establish schools in all the various branches of the fine arts, and a public exhibition of the productions of American artists ; to im- prove the public taste ; to raise a fund for the relief of decayed members; to examine with impartiality in what true excellency consists, and to render as simple as possible the means of acquiring a knowledge of the arts ; but, above all, to endeavour to remove existing prejudices, and to give a character to the fine arts in the United States. " An opinion has prevailed, and in some degree exists at pre- Knt, that this country is too young to foster the arts, and that our 36 ^ m >}i * t "»*, ri 1 ! I / 11 ! tISd TtiAVKLS IN form of goveruiheht is not very favourable to promote them ; tbat there are not sufficient materiaU to enable the student to pursue his studies to advantage; and that there is neither taste to appreciate merit, nor a disposition to reward it. ** These opinions have been promulgated without due examina- tion. We possess a vast extent of territory, and variety of cli- mate ; affording not only all the comforts and conveniencies, but nearly all the luxuries of life. Chains of mountains, of amazing extent, ruri nearly parallel with the coast, and are intersected at many places with magnificent rivers, forming a vast variety of the most sublime and picturesque scenery in the world ; and thete be- ing diversified with populous cities, towns, villages, and el^;ant mansions, afford an infinite source of materials for tfie landscape painter. 4*% * " The rapid increase of population and of wealth, and the ap- plication of the latter to promote the improvement of our cities and public works, calls forth the talents of the architect, and insures a reward for his exertions. <*To commemorate the American revolution, and to place inu conspicuous point of view those patriots and heroe.% who fou^t and bled in their country's cause, belong equally to' the painter, the sculptor, and the engraver. -v f^ ^a •/ •*The prospenty, and even existence of a republic^ depends upon an ardent love of liberty and virtue; and the fine arts, when properly directed, have a tendency, in a very eminent degree, to , promote both. ** The encouragement given to engraving within these few years, ^and the great improvement of that branch of the art», is a convinc- ing proof that the American people are far from being destitute of -taste .Many works have lately issue descrTc so well of their couutry. Mr. Latrobe being detained longer than was expected, I was obliged to set out for Wa.«hingtoi) alone ; but he favoured me with a letter of introduction, which answered every purpose. On the 28th of May, I took my pas^sage on board the New- castle packet, and we set sail at 8 o'clock it> the morning, with a very light wind. On gettin<^ round Gloucester Point, the breeze increased, but it was almost ri^ht ahead, and we had to tack from siide to side all the way down, which afforded us a fine view of the banks of the Delaware, and, the country being in full ver- dure, they exhibited a very fine appetirance. We roached New- castle at 5 o'clock, and immediately got into a stage to cross the country. The stage took a different road from that I bad travel- led before. The country was low, but the soil was more rich and better improved. In our way, we passed a good many hedges of hawthorn, which were in a most luxuriant state, and gave the fields a fresh, verdant appearance. Wc arrivcil at F.enchtown at 6 i \ ( I i^ i t ».' ^t: ^^-.m ll ) •t td6 TSAVBLd IN 9 o'clock, and immediately went on board the packet ; but the wind and tide were both against us, and we lay all night at the wharf. May 29, m'c had a thunder-gust during the night, and the wind shifted to the north-west, so that ct 2 o'dock in the morning we set sail with a fair wind, and by the time I rose, at 6 o'clock, we were nearly half way to Baltimore. The wind incireased, and, as the packet sailed very fast, we reached Baltimore a little put 9 o'clock, in the morning. Baltimore had increased very much since my l^st visit : the in- habitants now amounted to 35,583. On the 30th, at 6 o'clock in the m6ming, I set out for Washing- ton by the mail stage. I observed no material difference in the country since I travelled through it before, but found that the road was much improved, and it will soon be in a very good state. We arrived at Washington at 1 o'clock. My transactions there shall be narrated in the next chapter. I r. , ;U CHAPTER LXI. Ittterviem with Mr, GaUatiriy — mUh the President^ — "Return Ut Nem York, Soon ailer my arrival in Washington, I waited on my friend mentioned in my former visit I found he had left the treasury department, and had become a merchant. He was equally atten- tive as liefore. I intimated the object of my journey, and, to facilitate it, he' introduced me to a gentleman who was acquaint- ed with the secretary of the treasury. This gentleman introduced me to Mr. Gallatin, to whom I delivered my letter of introduc- tion, and, after some general conversation, it was agreed that I should wait upon him next morning at 9 o'clock. As I knew that Mr. Gallatin was an accurate man of businets, I considered that it would be proper to commit the substance ot my inquiries to paper, and, on my return to my lodgings, I drew up the following queries. :^ -■tj 'I : -fir-- -p: ■fi •T'J^'i^, THK DISTBICT Or COLUMBfA. 287 i; but the ight at the nd the wind norning we o'clock) we led, and, m little put 9 dsit: the in- •or Washing- rence in the >und that the y good State, actions there f,— Return Ut on my ineaA the treasury equally atten- irney, and, to was acquaint* introduced r of initroduc- agreed thatl ,n of busineis, substance of gings, Idrew Preliminary Inquiries before setting out on a Tour to the JVesiem Country. lit What are the particular situations in the United States which combine the greatest number of advantages to new settlers ? 2d. Who hold large tracts of unsettled land, in good situations? It is presumed the most advantageous terms can be made with such, because every new settler has a tendency to 6V- wxsion, marked out the diffet'etit land districts beldt^{^ li^H^ government of the United St^fics. •■^Isirjh^ I was highly grseiftfed by Mr. GalUtitfs attention, and fca^feil; edified by his valuiible information, which was my principal gh9Sk in fixing on my route, to be afterwards noticed. In the after ptftoftheday I iiiade' some Additional inquiries, in consequeiib* '■■). k- ■{■ • {,.. \ 288 tRATILS IN a::-* ' 'i ( •I. :* of the information received from Mr. Gallatin, and aflerwardf ucnt to sec a friend in Georgetown. June 1. Having finished my more immediate biuinrss at Wnsliington, I went this day to pay my respects to the president. Mr. Madison, like his predecessor, required no introduction ; but he was already acquainted with mc by ^ame. He reccired me very politely in a drawing cd that he had hitherto sacrificed his own opinion to his filial re- gard fur his father ; and this circumstance, though it militated a- gainst a free trade between England and America ndw, yet it was in favour of the prince's personal character; and he thought there could hardly be a doubt but be would change the ministry and restore a free trade, when he succeeded to full power. On the stopping of the trade itself, he remariied that, the im- morality and injustice of the measure out of the question, it had always astonished him that the British ministry should perseverr in a system so evidently impolitic, and which militated more a- gainst the interest of England than any other nation ; and it couM not be from ignorance, for the operation and tendency of the .prders in council had been very amply exposed in England, par- .ticularly in Mr. Baring's pamphlet, and Mr. Brougham's speech; rboth masterly productions, and which placed the question between the two countries in as clear a point of view as words could con- yej it. He observed that the effect of the orders in council were very injurious in this country, as they tended to distress the sea- ports, and to divide the people ; and there was now no alterna- tive but to sacrifice the national honour, or to resist. Resistance had been determined on by congress, and would in all probability be persevered in till justice was obtained; nor did he believe that «ny supposed opposition in the eastern states would now have :Miy effect in altering that determination, it being well known that 1 afterward! bntinMs at he president, luction; but received me conversation^ ind America. the country low daily ex- 'al something reen the two re the favour- leutral trade; 'as so popular but it appear- » his filial re. it militated a- idvr, yet it was id he thought e the ministry jower. that, the rai- ucstioD, it had ould persevere itated morea- 1 ; and it couM ndency ot the England, par- gham's speech; lestion between rds could con- n council were istress theses- ow no altema- 8t. Resistance all probability he believe that rould now have roll knovm that TnR DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 289 of the pcq>lo in these statea were dltormined republicans; and, notwithstanding the difierencc of opinion on commercial sub- jects, he was well assured that in the day of trial they would stand as firmly by their own government as any section in the onion. He regretted that a number of the merchants did not take a aiorc extended view of the subject, and prefer their permanent interests to a precarious and temporary interest, liable to be cut oft' every day. It was evident that, independent of the principle which the orders in council involed, that during their operution, the trade must necessarily be very limited, and subject to great oontingencics ; and without a free trade to the continent, there could be no free trade from England ; so that, although the govern- ment were even to sacrifice the national honour, and allow the merchantb to regulate the commerce of the country, the trade vonkl soon cense of itself. Goods could only be imported to the extent of the exports, and these being confined to England, and her dependencies ond allies, it must necessarily be so limited, that many of the merchants would be in a losing concern, and domes- tic manufactures would ultimately supersede foreign commerce. On the subject of manufactures he observed that they had pro- gressed in a wonderful degree, and went far to supply the internal demand, which was one great and permanent good that had arisen out of a system fraught with many evils: and so firmly were these manufactures now rooted that they would unquestionably flourish and increase. On the other hand, such had been the increase of population and wealth in the United States, that there would still be a very great demand for British manufactures, were the trade o- pened. Mr. Baring had pointed out in his pamphlet that the ex«- ports from Britain to America arnounted to 12,000,000 sterling, and he had no doubt but they would continue to be equal to that amount if the trade were free: and this consideration alone might have induced the British ministy to cultivate a firiendly intercourse whh a nation who were disposed to be friends, in place of scekinn- a precarious commerce by means of special licenses w^ith their c- neniies. ^ The conversation lasteil nearly an hour, and embraced several other topics, but these ar* the most material; and I left Mr. Ma- dison with sentiments of friendly regard and higli esteem. Washington citv, and tin? district of Columbia generally, had 37 \\ :i\ f' ■:1 i;»;« f I It 1 I i iV 990 TRAVELS fN much improVMl since I was here before ; but the improvemeiid matle the most promincni appearance in Georgetown and Alex- andria, which arc romimrt handsome towns. The city is laid out on quite too large a scale to be either comfortable or handsome. Indeed I am reluctantly letl to regret that the Heat of government of the United States was Bxed here at all. The soil is sterile around it, and every article of the necessaries of life is extravagantly high. The climate was noticed in page 152, accompanied with somere- marks concerning the marsh efHuvia of the low country, which my present observations tended to confirm. A strong south-east wind was blowing this day, which had a sensible cflect on my health ; and many others whom I saw, and a sea captain, well acquainted with the Mediterranean, said it had all the characteristics of a Siroc wind. There are thousands of situations in the United States equally . central and.convenient for the seat of the general government ; and had the district of Columbia been situated in a fertile soil and fine climate, such are the advantages arising from the circumstance of . its being the seat of government, that it would in all probability by this time have abounded with population and wealth, and have been the nursery uf the bciences, of classical education, of literature, and of all tlie other arts that exalt and embellish human life. As it is, so- ciety lios made very considerable progress within these last 10 yean. The population of the district of Columbia is now as follows : Washington city 8,208 Georgetown 4,!)48 "Washington county, exclusive of the city and Georgetown 2,315 Alexandria 7,227 Alexandria county, exclusive of the town 1,325 24,023 it '■ '■s*** »;^ it Having now completed my arrongem^ts here to my entire satis- faction, I was anxious to lose no time in commencing on my western tour; I accordingly set out on my return, on the 2d of June, at 8 o'clock in the morning, and arrived at Baltimore at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, where I stopped all night. On the 3d of June I set out from Baltimore by the Pilot stage, at S o'clock in the morning. The country was thinly settled, and the road very rough all the way to Havre-de-grace, at the mouth of tiie ,v NEW YORK. ' .^ jl^l Suiqnclionnah, where we croMed by a ferry, upwards of a mile wide. Havre-de-grace is built on a beautiful plain ; but it is sub- ject tu fever nnd ague, and is not thriving. The banks of the ri- ver tu the northward are romantic and beautiful. The country im- proves towards Philadelphia, nnd the road passes through Wilming^ ton, afinethrivinffSown, formerly noticed. We arrived in Phila- delphia at 7 o'clock, having travelled 103 miles in 16 hours; which wss great despatch, when we consider the nature of the road. Next day I t>et out fur New York by the steam-boat, and I arrived the day following, without meeting with any material adventure. and have been CHAPTER LXII. New Yorky — Itariton rivetf — Delaware river, — Philadelphia, r IiAVlNG a good deal of business to arrange before I could set out on my journey, I was detained on Long Island till the bcgin- iiing of August, and I devoted part of my time to digest my plan oftraTcls as follows: V ; ■ .: . ..J THE ROUTE. To Philadelphia — Cross the mountains to Pittsburg — Sail down the Ohio to the falls — Cross through Kentucky by Lexington to Limestone — Cross the Ohio, nnd pass through the state of C^io, by Zanesville, to the mouth of Cayhoga river, on Lake Erie — Tra- vel along the banks of Lake Erie to its east end — Travel along the banks of the Niagara river to the falls, and thence to Lake Ontario —Travel from thence to Batavia-^and return to New York in any way that circumstances may direct. In fixing upon my route, one principal object was kept in view,, namely, to take the several land-offices of the United States, and that of the Holland company, in my way. INQUIRIES TO BE MADE DURING THE JOURNEY. 1st As to the aspect of the country, soil, stratum under the soil, and minerals. 2d. As to lakes, rivers, creeks, springs, mineral 'springs, and swamps. 3d. As to natural timber, vegetable substances, plants, and herbs. 4'th. As to climate, seasons, health, and appearance of the inhabitants. 5th As to beasts, birds, reptiles, insects, and fishes. y ■■^-- '■i*^i "e ? it- '!| v\ f*- 293* TRAVBLS iN Sdu A? to 'commcneement of settlement, inhabitants where fron, manners and custonM, occupations, relijpous and political opi- nions, education snd science, civil jurisprudence. 7th. As to cities, villages^ farmhouses, and style of building. 8tb. At to agriculture, mechanics, manufactures, and commerce. 9th. As to road9, bridges, canals, travelling accommodation and charges. loth. As to value of land — of stock — of labour— of provision»-K)f materials hr building and manutacturing. 1 1th. As to what classes are best adapted to the country. 12th As to what manufactures can be established to the greatest ad- vantage. INQUIRIES TO BE MADE IN TOWNS AND VILLAGBS. Ist. As to the date of settlement. ' 2d. As to number of houses and inhabitants. * ,' ^ Sd. As to size and quality of the buildings. 4th. As to public buildings. 5th. As to taverns and stoies. ^th. As to size and price of lots. ■' ' 7th. As to house rent, prices of fuel and provisions. 8th. As to professions exercised and manufactures established. 9th. As to whether there be an opening for any of these, or any other. Having all my arrangements completed, I set out from Long Island on the 6th of August, 1811, and lodged in New York all night at the house of a friend. August 7th. I took my passage by the stcain-boat^ and at five minutes past seven the boat started from the wharf, with upwards of 70 passengers. This is one of the most useful establishments that has ever been attempted in America, and is remarkably well calculated for the American waters, many of which are of great mag- nitude. The patentees deserve great credit for their exertions ; they have spared no expense to render the works complete; and sc well are the boats managed, that a person can travel often from 100 to 200 miles in 24 hours, and have as comfortable boarding and lodg- ing all the way as he could have in the best tavern in New York. The preference which is given to these boats above every other con- veyance is a proof of their utility ; and the chance is that they will become universal through the country. There are now five on the North river, one on the Rariton, one on the Delaware, one on Lake Champlain, and one is building at Pittsburg. .t„.*j»»-" ^■"-mk We passed th^ several fortifications in the harbour, which were all in a state of great forwardness. One of thcm» Castle Williams, is said to be one of the best constructed forts in the world,, and quite impregnable. The United States frigate and Argus gua>brig were lying at anchor in the bay. At eight o'clock we reached Staten Island, and took the passage betwixt it and new Jersey, colled the Kills, where the tide runs with great velocity. We (>aascd several fi&liing vessels, and many smalL traders ; and at nine o'clock were opposite to Newark bay, where, we had a fine view up the country. To the west of this is Elizabeth- town point, well known in the history of the American war ; antl here the remains of the fortifications are still to be seen. At 12 o'clock we reached Amboy. The whole length of the channel between Staten Island and New Jersey is 24< miles, and its average breadth about 800 yards. It is navigable for small craft only, being in some places not more than three feet deep at low water. It abounds with fish, and has valua^ ble fisheries of shad, herrings, drum, black-fish, clams, and oysters. . Amboy is a small place, containing 815 inhabitants. It is pret- tily situated, and is a place of considerable resort in the summer season, as sea-bathing quarters. An elegant hotel and boanling- house is situated on the height above the town, which must com« . mand a very extensive and variegated view of the country. We now entered Rariton river, a slow muddy stream ; but cozh taiuing a good supply of fish. There are large salt meadows on ita banks ; but the land appears poor, and the crops very scant, until within a few miles of Brunswick, where the soil improves. The ri- ver contracts here, and the banks are steep and rocVjy. Brunswick is in a thriving state. Here we had to travel ov^ land to Bordentown, 93 miles, ami our company being pretty numerous, we filled three public stages besides some private carriages. We travelled by the nei* turnpike road, which is not nmch settled ; but the timber denotes good land : and such is the advantage of the public road, that it viU probab^ be all settled up in the course of a few years. At Princeton, 16 miles from Brunswick, there is an ek^aiit view, and die country is ricli and well improved, which continues to be the case 1 1 miles, to Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, con- , taining 3000 inhabitants. Here we left the post read and travelled hy a very rough path to Bordentown. Day-light failed ua, and ^t^. -^■< * 1 1' y i \ i "MsA. • I 394 TBAT^LS IN H = .T- being )pretty much fatigued, I fell asleep. I heard a confused noise in my sleep, and, starting up, I felt a motion as it I had been flying; but 1 had not a moment to consider what it might be,- the stage fell down upon its broad-side with a crash, and I found myseir and eleven more floundering like so many fishes in A net. Luckily there was nobody materially hurt. An old woman who was sitting next to me complained of being bruised a little ; and some of the gen- tlemen had got their faces somewhat scratched. I met with no o- ther injury than a slight sprain in my arm. This accident arose in consequence of the driver getting drunk, and in his frolic trying to pass one of the other stages ; but he paid dearly for his folly, for two of his teeth wore knocked out by the fall : and one of the proprietors being along with us, he turned him off on the spot, and taking the reins himself, drove us to Bor- dentown, where we stopped all night. Bordcntown is a handsome little place, situated on a height above the Delaware, from whence there is one of the finest views I have ever seen. Our accommodations here were very good, and th» charges reasonable.* August 8th. The steam-boat started at 7 o'clock, and continu- ed her course towards Philadelphia, at the rate of seven miles an hour. The river is very beautiful, and the land on each side ap- pears fertile, and is well improved. At half past eight o'clock we reached Bristol, a thriving little town, on the north bank, for- merly noticed ; and nearly opposite, on the Jersey side, is Burling- ton, also a thriving little town. The steam -boat stops at both places for the accommodation of passengers, but the delay is not great. From Burlington to Philadelphia is 20 miles, and the vi6w is handsome all the way. Near Philadelphia, a friend pointed out the situation on the bank of the river called Point-no-poitUt alluded to by Thomas Paine in his answer to Mr.Burke» At half past 12 we reached the city of Philadelphia. Our company during the passage were very agreeable. Immediately on my arrival 1 called at the Pittsburg stage-ofiice, and learning that the stage was to start next morning at four o'clock, ) secured my seat, and spent the evening with my friends. * For a table of the expenses on this journey, and a register of the weather, see Ap • ftndiz, Nos. 1 and 2. ■ k f' [ * 'I MMNSYLVANIA. S95 """"^SWI .'? weather, weAp- CHAPTER LXIII. Philadelphia, — Lancaster, — Hairisburg — Shippenhwgf — Chambersburg, August 9th. At 4 o'clock in the morning the stage started. The morning was foggy and cool, the thermometer being about .63<*. The stage was a roomy vehicle, capable of containing 12 |)ersons, but there were only three or four passengers, besides my^ ' self. The horses were noble looking animals, the best I had yet seen in the United States ; and I learned that Pennsylvania had a very fine breed, and we would have such horses all the way to Pittsburg. From Philadelphia to the Buck tavern, 10 miles to the westward, the country is agreeably uneven, and well wooded ; and the soil pretty fertile. It abounds with small streams, which, I imagine, would be very favourable for the erection of manufactories. The natural timber is principally oak, chesnut, and hickory. It is a good country for grazing, and raises grain and vegetables in abun- dance. The lands are all taken up and improved ; the price is from 70 to 120 dollars per acre. We travelled 10 miles, through a country nearly similar, when the road descended, by a turning, into a very rich valley, which presents a most animated prospect. Here we saw rich fields, sub- stantial farm-houses, fine flocks and herds, and the whole &ce of nature smiling around us. The view is terminated, to the north, by pretty lofty hills. The houses here are mostly built of stone, and we were told the inhabitants were principally quakers, and of German extraction. Our road continued through this valley, 10 miles, to Downings- town, where we crossed the cast branch of the Brandywine creek, here a handsome little stream, and soon after we ascended Gap Hill. This is a high tract of country, the lands rather barren ; it was originally settled by emigrants from Ireland. The value of land is from 25 to 40 dollars. We travelled about nine miles along this high land, when we descended, crossed the west brands of the Brandywine creek, and entered a fine champaign country, with a limestone bottom. This country is elegantly improved* ajid is very fertiJe, produo- ■I i. / f h A ^' 1896 1RAVELS IN ing n great variety of grain, particularly wheat, from which flour is manufactured for sale to a great extent annually. Tin's tract is very extensive, and is one of the best settled in the United States. The furuis arc evei;y where wdl cultivated, and the people appear- ed to be in prosperous circumstances. They are said to be mostly of German descent. The price of land here is from 75 to ISO dol- lars per acre, increasing as you approach Lancaster. We reached Lancaster at 5 o'clock in the evening, and only stop- ped to change horses ; so that I could see but little of the town. Indeed, my original plan was not to make any minute inquiry, un- til 1 should reach Pittsburg. * Lancaster «i» situated in a fertile plain, 62 miles to the wettWiird of Philadelphia* It is built on a regular plan, the streets crossing one another at right angles. The houses are mostly constructed of brick, but some few arc of stone. The inhabitants amount to 5405, and are mostly of German origin. The public buildings are seven places for public worship, a court-house, jail, and market-house; and there is a poor-house, a very humane institution, situated on the Gonestoga creek, a mile from the town. The principal manu- factures are fire-arms, particularly rifle-barrelled guns ; and there are several tan yards, distilleries, and breweries. This is, at present, the seat of government for Pensylvania, but, by a late act of the legislature, it is to be removed to Harrisburg; and 89,000 dollars have been appi-opriated to erect public buildings there. .tij We left Lancaster at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, and travelled by a good road) 18 miles, to E-.izabethtown, where we stopped ail night. The soil continues good, upon a limestone bottom, ail the way to this place. In our journey we had rf' very fine view of the high lands to the south-west. Elizubethtown consists of SO or 40 houses, mostly built of wood* August 10th. The stage started this morning at half past S o'clock, and was full of passengers. The morning was domp and fo^y. The thermometer stood at 65°. A little after leaving Middleton, we crossed through the Concwago hills, the soil poor* the country rough, and the road very liad. Four miles from Elizabethtown, we i-Mssed Conewago creek ; and four miles fur- tfaar, we passed the Swatawra creek, and reached Middleton : a small place, consisting of about 100 houses, mostly constructed of ',»-] PENNSYLVATtlA. «9t We were now on the banla of the noble Susqudiannah rivevy along which we had a Tery agreeable ride» by a good road, to Harrisburg. The view w said to be beautiful, but it was obscured by the fog ; and I. was sorry to find that the inhabitants had been a little afflicted with fever and ague. This disease is very common on the American rivers, before Uie country is settled and drained. On this river, it is most common on the east side ; a circumstance easily accounted for, by reflecting^hat tire most prevalent windi are from the south-west, whieh naturally blow the marsh etiluvia, that collects on the margin of the river, to the eastward. This disease will be of no long duration on the Susquthannah. The country is uneven on its surface, and has a limest miles broad, is very fertile, and abounds with beautiful views. We passed several small streams, which I was told run into two creeks, between which we travelled, the one called Conedogwinet, the other Yellow Breeches. The one rises in the North, the other in the South Mountains, and both run a north-east course to the Susquehannah, and are very useful, as well as ornamental, to tliis charming valley. Nine miles from Carlisle we stopped for dinner, near the foot of the South Mountains, of which we had a beautiful view ; and our view was equally pleasing in the interior ofthehouse^ where were a number of fine young damsels, whose rosy cheeks I considered an indication of a healthy country. .L^ * From hence we travelled 10 miles to Shippensburg; the country ■*■ ^ nearly the same as already mentioned, but in many places tht /^. 11*. f • ,©>■»«>»"*«=;.■ ticMMMi||MM|K FINNSYLVAMIi. S99 late ^'88 attd limMtone jutted out of the road, and rendered our travelling very rough. Near Shippensturg^^ we passed some pine trees, the ficst'I had seen since I left Philad«lphia> but the tract was ot no great extent In the neighbourhood of Shippensburg the land is. good* and sells for about 50 dollars per acre. Wood land is considered the most valuable. Shippensburg U but a tmaU place* The whole township, by last census, contained only 115& inhabitants ; but it is thriving, and they are establishing manufactories, particularly of cotton, of which the carriage is only half a cent per pound from Baltimore. There are a variety of churches, and schools are plenty ; the expence of tuition is about two dollars per quarter. The limestome bottom continues, and the soil and state of cul- tivation are nearly the same the next 1 1 miles to Chambersburg, i^ere we stopped for the night t; .^ V CHAPTER LXIV. ' Chambersburg, — M*Connelst(min, — Bedford X HAD travelled a good part of the way through this valley with a Mr. Lindsay, one of the proprietors of the stage, to whom I was principally indebted for my information by the way, and,, as I lodged at his house, I was able to make an important addition to my stock of knowledge regarding this part of the country. Chambersburg is the capital of Franklin county, and is situ> ated on the eastern branch of Conecccheague creek, in the middle of the valley between the North and South Mountains. It con- sists mostly of one long and pretty broad street, and contains nearly 2000 inhabitants. The buildings are partly of brick and partly of wood ; but brick buildings are now .the most common, and there are some of stone. The public buildings are a court- house, jail, and three or four places for public worship. The schools are numerous, and education is from two to five dollars per quarter. There are numerous manufactories in this place and its neighbourhood, particularly on Conecocheague creek, which drives two grist-mills, two paper-mills, two oil-mills, and one ful- ling-mill. There are several carding machines, and spinning jen- nies, and two stocking frames. The price of working a pair of stockings is about half a dollar. There are three weekly ne:(fir papers published) besides one iu the German language. . ■ ^ 300 TRAVUS IK I "I i j. Thitvalby u considered the moat importaiit In America. It eirtendt from the Hudson river sonth-wett to Tennessee, and is of -various breadths, from 12 to 25 miles. It is all on a bed of limc- ' stone, and is very fertile ( the northern part raising every sort of grain, with fruits and hemp; and towards the south, in addition to these, it raises cotton. It abounds with iron ore, and other r^ninerals, and mineral springs. It is well watered with numerous important rivers, and a great number of flourishing towns are situated on it, of which the most important are, Carlisle, l^ip. pensburg, Strasburg, Chambersburg, Messersburg, and Green* castle, in Pennsylvania ; Hagerstown, Williamsport, and Sharps* burg, in Maryland ; and Martinsburg, Winchester, Newmarket, Staunton, Fincastle, and Austinville, in Virginia. In that part of it situated in Pennsylvania, hind sells for from 20 to 100 dol- lars per acre; horses 20 to 200 dollars; cows about 20 dollan* The climate is excellent the whole length of the valley. There are few slaves in this place; there are only 87 in Franklin county. I now began to get acquainted with some of my fellow>travellers. Two of them were from Philadelphia, bound to Betlibrd springs; one from Virginia, bound for Chilicothe ; and here we picked up a sort of a Frenchman, bound the Lord knows whitier, Ibr it ap- pemred he did not know himself. With this company the stage started from Chambersburg^ on Sunday the 11th of August, at 8 o'clock in the morning. By the post-office regulations the stages are not required to travel here on Sunday, but they must carry the mail from Philadelphia to Pittsburg in six ordinary days ; so when the sabbath intervenes, they generally make a short journey to lighten those of the remaining days. We w«re jo travel this . day 22 miles to MK^nnelstown. About a mile from Chambersburg we ascended a considerable hiUy from whence we had a very extenuve view of the valley and distant mountains. Nine miles from Chambersburg, near the ibot of the mountains, we stopped to see a singular curiosity, which we were told was taken out of a cave in the North Moua- ' tain, about two miles distant. It was a stone exactly in the form of a turtle, and little doubt remained on ray mind but it was a petrifaction, though I had not time to moke the necessaiy inquiries concerm'ng it. Two miles from thence we stopped to elMtBgehmrses, at the foot of the first mountain, at aa elegant new Jtaadt house. The road winds round the foot of this moontain t« . f» ir ♦ rBMNSYLVANJA. 901 tiherea fine Tallcy op«ns to the northward, in which run* the the west branch of Coneeocheague creek, which having croiwc4» w? immediately began to ascend the North Mountain ; and now we prepared for a tough pull. . For the first mile the ascent was eaa)r« but after this it was very steep, and the road narrow, and exeea- lively rough. I was puzzled to find out how carriages could pasa ooe another by tlie way : but the mystery was solved as we went up the hill. Our driver kept sounding a horn, and we soon came to eight or nine waggons descending, which had all drawn aside at a place that had been made broader for that purpose. The cutr torn is for those in the ascending carriage to imitate their situation by sounding a horn ; and on hearing it, those descending must wait their approach at the first place they can pass. The stagey or a single carriage, has seldom any great difficulty ; but when there arc a number of waggons together, the difficulty is some- times very great. About a mile from the top of the mountain we came to a miser- able log-cabin, where the driver stopped to water his horses, and we stept into the house to get a little spirits and. water. We found it kept by an old woman, with a son and two daughters. The situation is so romantic and lonely that it might suit a hermit; but this i^^peared to be no hermitage. Having rested a little, we pursued our journey to the mountain's top. . On the top of the mountain there is a house kept by a re- ^ctable German family, and here we again stopped a short time. .From hence we had a view of an amazing extent. To theeasW ward we saw the fertile valley we had left, el^antly variegated with woods and cultivated fields, with towns and farm-bouscs, and roads and rivers ; and to the west we saw piles of mountains), witJi scoicry among them elegantly variegated, as far ns the eye could reach. We bade adieu to the plains for a time, and braced up our minds as well as our bodies, in expectation of meeting with many a shake and jolt, before we got from among the mountains ; and truly we had need, for we descended by a path of two mikt and a hallj so steep, and so rough, that it was often with difficul- ty we could sit in the carriage. On reaching the plain below, wt lodged at M'OonneUtown, before mentioned. . ivj;!,^*; -i.i Our Frenchman and Virginian soon became though it was the sabbath evening, they proposed to go -a- togetlier; but tlie l^dlord, to whon» they had applied, pat) I 'V^ :\ », r/.-' ^ Z"- ni^ A 4 t-'i.!^ 'I-^ H^r T 1 *\ f^ r .' i. 1 \ i i i V \* l;m 302 THAVBLS IH 4 i^ i ll 1 X . ..I upon the wrong scent, and they returned without finding any ganst to their liking. M'CoNNELSTOWN Contains 80 or 90 houses, and about 500 in- habitants. The houses arc built of wood, many of them oflogn, but the town appears to be thriving. There are eight taverns and •even stores ; and several manpfacturies have been recently csta> blished, particularly a carding machine, some weaving, and hosi> ery. Flour sells for 7 dollars per barrel, beef at 4^ dollars, and other provisions in proportion. Baltimore is the nearest port, distant 100 miles. > From hence to the Potomac river is about 25 miles. Monday, August 12th, the stage started from M'Connelstown at half past 5 o'clock. The morning was clear, the thermometer stood at 69*'. On leaving the town we ascended Scrub hill, and about a mile up we had ii very extensive view of the country, which is rough, and thinly inhabited, but very healthy. Land sells at from from one to fifteen dollars per acre. After travelling about ten miles, we stopped to breakfast, and immediately as- cended Sidling hill. This chain, though not so large as the North Mountains, is yet very magnificent and lofty, and, by the road, is two miles from bottom to top. We walked a considerable way on the ascent, and, on the top, were rewarded by a most sublime view, but differing materially from that on the North mountains. We were now environed by mountains on all sides. In descend- ing this hill to the westward, we fell in with the Strasburg road, and near the same place the Baltimore road joins. This hill it about 1800 feet high, and there are several taverns Upon' it. Con- nected with this is Ray's hill, on which we travelled about half a mile, when wc descended by a very steep and rough road, and, passing through an uneven country three miles, we reached thie Juniata river. This a large branch of the Susquehannah, and was noticed in page 130. Here it is singularly romantic, having high, steep, and rugged banks, and it runs in a deep chasm on a bed of free-stone, the passage being remarkably serpentine. A chain bridge was building, but, not being finished, we passed by a flat boat. The piers of the bridge were erected, and are 24 feet high ; but the men were not at work, and I did not learn ths dimensions of the other parts. * Having crossed the Jiiniata, we ascended a considerable emi- UOkctf by a winding pathj and travelled about a mile through pret- )out 500 in- hem of logo, ; taverns and ecently csta- ig, and hoti* \ dollars, and nearest port, • » about 25 'Connelstown thermometer Tiib hill, and the country) ;althy. Land fter travelling mediately as- ;e as the North , by the road, nsiderable way I most sublime th mountains. In descend- trasburg road, This hiU i» Ipon it. Con- ed about half gh road, and, e reached thie ehannah, and nantic, having ep chasm on a erpentine. A we passed by , and are 24 not learn tha siderable emi- through prel- PBMNSTLVAMIA. 903 ty well cultiTated firids, to where we saw a moat singular curioaity. The river makes a bend so remarkable that we could stand on a neck, of land and pitch a stone over the bank, on each aide; while the course of the river round the bend is nearly five miles. The bank* are very lofty, and clad from top to bottom with various kinds of trees and shrubbery. , > We travelled along tlie banks of this romantic river, almost con- stantly in sight of it, eight miles, when we passed a little village call- ed Bloody Run, in commemoration of the massacre of a body of mi- litia by the Indians, soon aflcr Braddock's defeat. We passed a number of waggons in our progress, and sometimes with consider- able difficulty, for the rond was often very narrow, and at one place proceeds along the banks of the river on the side of a hill by a pas- sage so terrific that I had some apprehensions for my personal safe- ty. We were told, indeed, thot a waggon had been here overturn- ed and destroyed, together with the driver and horses, some tima before. The country becomes ihop6 and more romantic towards Bedford, ux miles from which we passed betwixt the Warrior and Tussey's mountains. Here I was informed by one of the gentlemen from Philadelphia that he had been encamped near this place when the militia were called out in the time of Mr. Adams' administration, to suppress the riots in this part of the country, emphatically called " the hot water war." The road continues very rough till within a mile of Bedford, where we passed a handsome little stream called Dunning's creek, by a bridge ; after which the road improves, and there are handsomely cultivated fields all the way to the town, which we reached at 5 o'clock. As Bedford had become a notable watering-place, we hired the driver to carry us to the springs, about half a mile distant Here we found a vast concourse of people collected from different places, some of them very di;itant. The principal spring issues in great pro- fusion from a rock, and appears to be strongly impregnated with magnesia, and a little sulphur ; so that it is unquestionably me- dicinal, and very good for some complaints : but from the mode in which it is used, it may admit of doubt whether it does most harm or good. It is indiscriminately used for every complaint; and is of- ten drank in such profusion as must assuredly tend to disorganize the stomach, and bring on a flatulency. I drank about a pint, which I found to be "quantum stif. " but I was told, indMd J r ' ( /i' \ I y^ "'■1 •■J W^^Bj^x sr ,-—,,«*>»• I,. VI h i i1 V .1 SM TRAVKLS IN . found it printed in a book, that from two to thirty haU*pinti wit the UHual quantity, an hour before brcakfa»t ; and some drank fifty half pints. There is a biithing-housc liandsomoly fitted up in the immediate neighbourhood uf tlie spring, and is supplied with water from it ; but I presume pure water would be equally eflicacioua for bathing. Adjoining the spring, in a hollow, is a large building fit- ted up as a boarding-huuHO, where the charge is about five or ie stage, I incipally ?^ of them, a very rENNIYLVANIA. S05 itout robust looking man, with a thundering voice, wav giving th« necensary orders ; und I began to b« afraid that we would have a troublesome neighbour : but 1 was gind tu find, afterwards, that I bad miscalculated, — for I found him to be on« of the most civil and discreet gentlemen that I had met with in all my travels. Uesidca the company in thestoge (and it >A'ns full,) tiiero was a cavnlcadc of four or five on horseback ; and being all bound fur Pj^tiiburg, wt made a pretty respectable party. Being all fixed, (to use an American expression,) we started at half past S o'clock. The morning was foggy ; but it cleared up by 6 o'clock, when the thermometer stood at 50**. We twice crossed a branch of the Juniata river, on which a number of valuable mills are erected. Between four and five miles from Bedford, the road forks, the north branch passing in nearly a direct line to Greens- burg. Wc took the south branch, which passes by Somerset. Tho country is rough, but tolerably well cultivated, and raises much more grain than is sufficient to supply the internal dcYnand. Tho market for flour is Baltimore, and the expense of carriage thither is about one dollar and a half per barrel. We stopped for breakfast 1 4 miles from Bedford; and here I perceived that they made a difference in the charge between the pas- sengers in the stage and those on horseback : the former paying 31 ^ cents, the latter only 25 cents. I inquired into the reason of it» nnd was informed it was in consequence of being obliged to prepare victiials fur a certain number of passengers by4the stage, whether they came or not ; in consequence of which tltcre is a considerable loss of time, and some waste of victuals ; whereas, in the other case, they know to a certainty what they have to prepare. The regulation is reasonable. — After breakfast we travelled four miles over an in- ferior cluiin of hills, called Dry ridge, the road rough, the soil poor, and the views numerous and extensive. At 1 1 o'clock we arrived at at the loot of the Allegany, the greatest of nil the chains of moun- tains, and emphatically termed the back-bone of America. The ascent of this mountain was easier than I imagined It would have been, and the company being sociable and well-disposed, we rotle and walked alternately, which afforded considerable vari- ety. Near the top we stopped at an excellent stone house, kept by a Dutchman as a tavern, where we rested a considerable time, and bespeaking some refreshment, we found the provisions good, and the charge moderate. The view to the eastward is very exten- 99 i a 4 306 TRAVELS IN sivc ; hut, as we were not yet upon the summit, we could not see westward. There was a little rivulet near the house, and on its banks some pretty fertile soil, which was with great care converted into arable land ; and a garden beside the house raised a good sup- ply of vegetables. The cows, sheep, hogs, and poultry were plen- tifully supplied from the grass of the mountain ; but the flour and tiquors had to be brought from the low country. But, in truth, it is really a comfortable residence, and I presume the honest Dutch- man will succeed very well as a tavern-keeper at this place. On our way towards the summit we met some people who had been very suc- cessful in gathering whortle-berries, with which all the mountains abound ; and they made us a present of as many as we chose to take. On reaching the summit, my senses were almost overpowered by the sublimity of the view, and the sensations excited by it. To form some idea of it, it is necessary to bear in mind, that the base of the second ridge is a little higher than the first, and so on to the Allegany, which is the highest of all ; and from thence the coun- try agam falls to the westward. Hence the Allegany is the divid- in" ridire between the eastern and western waters ; and a shower of rain falling hefc must be so divided, that one part of it will run into the Atlantic by the Chesapeak bay, and the ot^ier will fall into the Gtilph of Mexico by the Mississipi, being separated lOOO miles in a direct line. The view is most extensive, and is sublime in a high degree ; but as it is only a small part of the globe that can be sub- mitted to the sense of vision at any one time, there is a kind of regret, commingled with the other sensations, that we cannot here view the country from the Atlantic to the Mississippi. Imagination and a perusal of the map must in part supply the defect. But I cannot express all I feel, and must hasten from the towering eminence, to survey the country piece by piece, the only way that it can be ac- complished by mortal man. I may cry out, " O, that I had the wings of the morning, that I might fly to the uttermost ends of the earth in search of knowledge I" But sober reason steps in to check the vain illusion ; so I must e'en take her for my guide, and travel, not as fancy, but as reason directs. As we began to descend, I could distinctly perceive that we were now in a different climate, and wiis strongly impressed with the force of Volney's remarks on the climate of the United States. The wind was blowing from the westward, and had a balmy soft- ness, which 1 had often observed in Europe, but seldom in the United States ; and though it was the hottest time of the day, and — ^<^mm' -"mk .*' could not see and on its are converted d a good sup- try were plen- the flour and t, in truth, it lonest Dutch, place. On our been very suc- the mountains chose to take. ; overpowered ted by it. To } that the base id so on to the ;nce the coun- y is the divid- lid a shower of it will run into ill fall into the ! lOOO miles in jlime in a high lat can be sub- kind of regret, mot here view nagination and But I cannot r eminence, to t it can be ao that I had the rmost ends of on steps in to my guide, and ..r.i''! e that we were essed with the United States. 1 a balmy soft- seldom in the ■ the day, and PBNNSYLVANIA. 307 the liottefit season of the year, we felt no inconvenience from it. On reaching the plains below, these remarks were corroborated by observing the fields. The grass, grain, fruit, all indicated that we were now in a temperate climate ; the fields of oats were particular- ly demonstrative of it. In all my travels through the Atlantic states, east of the mountains, I had uniformly noticed that oats did not come to the same degree of maturity as in Europe. The rea- son which I assigned wns, that the climate is too rapid for them, and they are ripened before the ear fills. Here, however, I foivtid elegant fields of them, which had come to full maturity; and I was so struck with the circumstance, that I several times got out of the stage to examine them. I ahviiys met with the same result. From the foot of the mountain, we travelled about 14< miles, through an uneven country, to Somerset, where we stopped for the night. On our arrival at this place, I was proceeding to follow up my inquiries ; and judging that the landlord would be equally communicative and obliging with those I had before met with in the United States, I began to put some questions to him. But I soon found that I had reckoned without my host. To the first question he made a repulsive answer; and at the second, he turned upon his heel, muttering something to himself^ tliat I did not dis- . tinctly hear. " O, ho ! ' thinks I to myself, " I have got into the wrong box ;" so I very composedly shut up my papers, and step- ped over to the postmaster, at the other side of the street. I found him a perfect contrast to the landlord. He was not only willing to answer all my questions, but he called, in the aid of several other gentlemen, and I got every information I could desire. Somerset is the capital of Somerset county, and is situated in a valley called the Glades. The town was laid out about 24 years ago, and now contains 480 inhabitants. The houses arc in num- ber about 80 or 90, principally built of logs, and there are eight taverns and six stores. The public buildings are a court house and jail; and two churches are building. Tlie town is well supplied with provisions, which sell at moderate prices ; beef, mutton, and pork, are about four cents per pound. The manufactures are equal to the supply of the demand, except for fine goods. There are in the town and neighbourhood several carding machines for wool, and one for cotton, which are doing well. Cotton is brought from Baltimore at about two cents per pound ; and wool, both common and merino, is abundant in the country. The schools are ll ,H '-'^ .^~' "V^* "3 t > T" 308 TRAVELS IN very good and improving ; and there is a newspaper society estab- lished, which gets all the principal newspapers in the United States* The country in the neighbourhood is pretty fertile, and agri- culture is in an improved state. They raise oats, barley, wheat, and rye; and the country answers remarkably well for grazing, particularly sheep. There is plenty of iron ore in the valley, and three forges have been recently erected. The greater part of the surplus produce is carried to Cumberland, 35 miles distant; where it is taken by boats, down the Potomac, to Baltimore. Land car- riage to Philadelphia is three dollars per cwt. The obliging po&tmastcr from whom I got my information, is a native of Ireland, and has been long settled in this country. His name is Clark, and I shall long keep it on the right side of the book of my remembrance. — Mr. Webster, the landlord, must take " the left hand road." On my return to the tavern, the company had all retired to bed, but I had to sit up and finish my notes. The landlord hinted that I had better go to bed, as the stage would start very early in the morning. I told hira I must write a little before I went to bed, but would rise at any hour, provided I was called. He said I w^ould be called in due time. Before I finished, it was near 12 o'clock. August l^th. At half past 2 o'clock, I heard the voice of my landlord, calling all hands to their duty. I looked up, rubbing my eyes : — *' Will the stage go soon ?" said I. " The stage will go when it's ready," said he. "And when will it be ready ?" said I. " That's nothing to you," said he : " I have called you ; that's my duty ; if you don't obey orders, and are disappointed, the blame's your own." I started up, and went down stairs. When I settled my bill, " Now I'm ready," said I. *' No, you're not quite ready yet," said he, " there's some whiskey and bitters for you." I took a little of it. « Well, what's to pay for this ?" « Nothing." The ladies appeared, and he ordered them into an adjoining room to get some coffee ; and pointed out the whiskey and bitters to the gentlemen who attended them. " I believe I'll take a cup of cof- fee with the ladies," said one of the gentlemen. « If you don't choose the bitters, you may let them alone," said the landlord ; *' but the coffee was provided for the ladies, and of it you don't get one drop." But his care of the ladies did not end here. The morning was cold and raw, and he provided warm great coats for 1% >#'::' V: ' **J PBNNSYLVANIA. S09 them all. This humane conduct gave me a better opinion of him, than I otherwise would have entertained ; and, enquiidng into his history, I learned that he had been an officer in the army, during the war, which account^ for the austerity of liis behaviour, and the haughtiness of his command. Six miles from Somerset, we reached Laurel Hill, of which, as I qiade no particular remark, except that we had a fine view faem the top, I shall transcribe Michaux's account. " The di- recticokpf this ridge is parallel with those we left behind us ; the woods ^hich cover it, are more tufted, and the vegetation appears more \Ne]j. The name given to this mountain, I have no doubt, proceeds from tiie great quantity ofcalmia latifolia^ from 8 to 10 feet high, which grows exclusively in all the vacant places, and that of the rhododendriim maximum^ which enamel the borders of the torrents; for the inhabitants call the rhododendrum laurel, as frequently as the calmia latifolia" The descent on the western side of this ridge was very steep, and we had to walk nearly all the way down. We breakfasted at the foot of Laurel Hill, and travelled over a country pretty fertile, and partially improved, about eight miles to the foot of Chesnut Ridge, the last and least of the mountains; over which the road passes two miles. This ridge lies parallel with all the^thers, and has nothing to recommend it to particular no- tice, except that the view being now unobstructed to the westward, . the western country appears to be spread out like a plain of vast exteut. We reached the foot of this mountain at 1 o'clock, and 1 shall introduce the country beyond it to the notice of the reader, _ in a new chapter. I w dv'UU ■i .. f ,1;. ^■:. r. CHAPTER LXVL , '^ Wesiein Conn fry , — Greensburgy — Pittsburg. • / On entering into the country to the westward of the mountains* the whole face of nature indicated a fertile soil and healthy cli- mate. The woods consisted principally of oak, hickory, chesnut, walnut, locust, and sugur-maple ; and the trees were generally speaking, larger than any timber I had ever seen before. iThf , fields were fertile and well cultivated, and the crops of grain andi -*. ^10 tUkVElA IN grass were luxuriant. The surface of the earth is swelled out into tm inqutnerable number of small hills, but all fit for cultivation, and the ground is abundantly watered by springs and rivulets. With these advantages, it was not to be supposed that this coun- try, so near the old settlements, would long lie waste ; and we accordingly find, that the county of Westmoreland is one of the most populous in the state of Pennsylvania. The farms ure well improved, and the farm houses are, many of them, substantial, and bespeak afHucnce, ease, and comfort. These remarks may appear singular to such as know of no medium by which wealth can be obtained, but that of foreign commerce ; but they are, nevcrihcless, correct. The people here appear to be as well lodged, as well fed, and as well clothed, as those who live in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia or New York. "■""'■' " ' * '^** Atler passing Chesnut Ridge the road makes a considerable bend to the northward, and crosses several small creeks, branches of the Yoxhiogeni river ; the principal of which is Sewickly creek; and seven miles from thence we reached Greensburg, passing in our way a salt spring, and a coal mine, the first I had seen in the United States. We stopped for the night at Worbache's tavern. Greensburg is the capital of Westmoreland county, and is situated in a healthy, fertile country. It contains by last jensus 680 inhabitants, and is encrcasing. The houses are mostly built of wood, but some few are of brick. The public buildings* are, a court-house, jail, meeting-house, and market-house. Thursday, 15th August. The stage started from Greensburg at 4 o'clock, and travelled through a fertile country ; but it was very uneven, and we were constantly either ascending or descend- ing. Six miles from Greensburg we passed a little place called Adam&burg, consisting of a few houses only ; and at six miles from thence we stopped to breakfast at the house of a Mr. Stewart, one of the most di-creet landlords 1 ever saw. Our charge here was only 25 cents. At ten miles from Stewart's we had to descend a pretty steep eminence, to cross Turtle creek, and some rain having fallen, the road was very slippery and bad. One of the Pittsburg gentlemen, and I, alighted to walk down the hill. Wo got a considerable way before the stage, and my fellow-traveller took me a little off the road, to see what he termed a great curi- It was indeed one of nature's wondem, the remains of a ibly large tree. The history of it, as he stated it, was this. s/^. * ■ ^ ^'^MMqlMjii m PENNSYLVANIA. 311 The tree was a sycamore, which species, when they grow very large, decay in the heart. This one had so decayed, and there wai a hole in one side of it. A family had conic down the creek in the winter season, and got their boat stove by the ice ; when, see- ing this tree, they cleared out the rubbish from the inside, and converted it into a house, where tliey lived for some time, till they got,their boat repaired. When thk?y left it they set it oa fire, which consumed every thing but the stump; and the remains of it now form a circle like the staves of a large vat. My friend told me he had rode into it with his horse, and turned him round in the inside, which he could do with ease. We measured it, and found it to be fully 15 feet in diameter. Having crossed the creek, and ascended the hill on the otiier side, we travelled about a mile, when we came to the ground where General Braddock was defeated. Many memorials of the battle are btili to be seen ; but none so characteristic as the boneti, which lay bfeaching by the way side; and of which one of our company, being nn anatomist, carried one away as a curiosity. A little after passing this place, we stopped at the house of a judge Wallace; and here we were recompensed for the disagreea- ble sensations excited by the sight of the field of battle, by the view of one of the most lovely of God's works. Miss Wallace came out to the carriage with some fruit and cyder* She wan beautiful, while she appeared quite unconscious of it, being en- tirely free from affectation ; she was the picture of innocence, and sweet simpUcity. On leaving the house, I was informed by the Pittsburg ladies, who were acquainted with her, that her mind was as elegant as her person, and her affections graced both-— tlie whole forming the picture of the poet : §■ -Innocence i Looked gaily smiling on ; whiW rosy Pleasure- Hid young Desire amid her flow'ry wreath. And pour'd her cup luxuriant ; mantling high. The sparkling heavenly vintage, love and bliss. From hence to Pittsburg is nine miles, and the country con- inued hilly for seven ; when we came to the banks of the AUe- giviiy, and proceeded along an open plain, bounded by the Alle- gany on the west, and by pretty high hills on the east; and we proceeded between thtse, two miles, to Pittsburg, where we arriving at two o'clock. :^ if li 'f] Jf'fy ^;- :^ 313 TRAVELS IN ^. I shuU close this chapter with a few general remarks. The whole of the mountains, as far as I saw them, are cover- ed with wood to the very top ; and they form a very luxuriant ap- pearance, compared with the bleak mountains of Britain and Ire- land. There are a great variety of valuable plants amongst them ; but, being no botanist, I shall barely transcribe a list of them, which I find scattered in different places of Michaux' iTravels. Calnda latifoliOf Andromeda vacciniuntt Rhododendrum, lifiodo- dendrum maximum^ Magnolia acuminata^ Q uercus banister^ Azalea. . Michaux mentions that there are a great many rattlesnakes in the mountainous parts of Pennsylvania, and he found a vast num- ber of them killed upon the road. We found only one, and I have never yet seen a live rattle-snake in America, except one ex- hibited in a box as a show. As I have the book of this respectable traveller in my hand, I may notice, that the country has much changed in the course of eight years, or he must have been mistaken in some of his conclu- sions. In the 2d London edition, page 30^ he observes : « Sheep being very scarce, the wool is very dear, and they reserve it to make stockings." In my journey through the mountains, I passed many droves of horses, cattle, hogs, and some sheep, going to the eastward. The mountainous district is well calculated for sheep and merino sheep have been introduced, and are thriving remark- ably well. Wool is plenty, and carding machines are common all over the country. In page 40, he observes: " A passion for spiritous liquors is one of the features that characterize the coun- try people, belonging to the interior of the United States. This passion is so strong, that they desert their homes every now and then, to get drunk in public houses ; in fact I do not conceive there 10 out of 100 who have resolution to desist from it a mo- ment, provided they had it by them." In my journey across tlie mountains, I did not see a single person drunk, though no doubt there might have been many. There is unquestionably too much spirituous licjuors drank in the newly settled parts of America, but a very good reason can be assigned for it. The labour of clearing the land is rugged and severe, and the summers heats are somctimcti so great that it would be dangerous to drink cold water, "^his is a trutli, whatever philoBophers may think of it. Where .ha coun- try is entirely new, there are no apples, and consequently no cy- , tier. Malt liquor will not keep, spirituous liquors are soon pre- Jf-" are cover- :uriant ap- n and Ire- igst them ; t of theni) t* iTravels. fw, Bhodo- ri, Azalea. lesnakcs in ▼ast num- one, and 1 ;ept one ex- my hand, I e course of his conclu- ;s : " Sheep •eserve it to IS, I passed Toing to the 1 for sheep, ing remark- common all lassion for ze the coun- tates. Tlii» ry now and not conceive jm it a mo- yr across the ;h no doubt ly too much America, but ir of clearing re sometimes This is a \\ii coun- ently no cy- e soon pre- r. ' l>KNNSYLTAIfIA. B\3 pared, and are in fact the only beverage to which the aettlert ha?e access ; and many may, in this way» acquire a habit, which they will not be al^ afterwards to correct. By and bye, a new set of settlers comes into the country, with more temperate habits; the first class, who may with propriety be called pioneers^ sell their improvements, and move away to clear lands fartlier back ; the country becomes utocked with fruit for cyder, and materials for malt liquor; and the people are as temperate in their habits, and as correct in their morals, ab the inhabitants of either France or England. Thi& district of country was new when Michaux tra- velled through it, and he had seen some instances of intemperance, which no doubt would make u considerable impression on his mind ; but there is no way of accounting for the sweeping con- clusion he draws against the whole of the " counti*y people belong- ing to the interior of the United States," namely, all the farmers, ex- cept by the presumption, that his mind must have been predisposed, in consequence of misinformation received from soma prejudiced foreigners in the sea-porto, many of whom are ever ready lo abuse and vilify the mass of the people in the United States. But we may set it down as a certain truth, that'^'coi*ruption of morals in the mass of cultivators is a phenomenon of which no age or nation has furnished an example." The expense of travelling by the stage, from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, is 20 dollars, and 12^ cents fur every pound of lugga;;;^ beyond H. The charges by the way are about 7 dollars. The whole distance is 297 miles, and the stage travels it in 6 days. The expense of tiavelling by a waggon is 5 (dollars per cwt. for both persons and property ; and the charges by the way arc about 12 dollars. A waggon performs the journey in about 20 days. 1 cannot here omit to notice of what im{X)rtance it would be to have a good turnpike road across the mountains ; and I was glad to learn that it was probable one would soon be made. Com- missioners were surveying the different lines of road at the time we passed, and it was expected they would make their report to the legislature at their* next meeting. From the liberality which that body have lately adopted towards the public concerns of the ttate, and the ample funds in their hands, there seems to be no doubt but this important branch of political economy will receive every encouragement which it deserves ; and, when a good road is sanried through betwixt Philadelphia and Pittsburg, it will bc«litr* / 40 * '■^'' tl ?■ 314 TRAVELS IN tended with advantages of which the most sanguine calculator could not ut present forni an estimate. vn, > ii-ii> ■ m^l ;■ In surveying the " sublime and beautiful/' in the course of this journey, 1 often thought of the Society of Artists in Philadelphia, and wished that some of their amateurs had been along with me to delineate some of the scenery to embellish this work ; but that ob- ject not being attainable, I must embellish it in the best way I can, by giving my readers an account of what they can eat, and what ihcy c:m drink, and wherewilhal they can be clothed; and of what can be ilone here to procure these articles, so necessary to the sup- {lort of human lil'c. .•»-f., fiif^rt I -.JU U k. ( \ I. ■ a CHAPTER LXVII. rUlshurg. (i. t •■'!>. AVING formed an acquaintance with my Pittsburg fellow-trar. vt'liers, wliom I found to be very discreet well-informed people, I was enabled very soon by their assistance to make myself acquaint- ed with this part of the country. PiTTSBUiKi is situated at the confluence of the Allegany and Mo- iiongahela rivers, the junction of which forms the Ohio. It extends about three-quarters of a mile along the Allegany river, and about half a mile along the Monongahela. The scite of the town is nar- row, being hemmed in by hills to the eastward, about half a mile from the Allegany river ; but thei'e is room for it to extend along that river two miles. The town was first laid out in 1765; but was surveyed and laid out on a new plan in 178i. The plan was meant to accommodate the town to both rivers; but it is by no means so well designed as it might have been. The streets are generally too narrow, and they cross one another at acute anglefi, which is both hurtful to the eye and injniious to the buildings. The value of the situation may be determined by a notice of the progress of the town. In 1800 it eoiitained 2400 inhabitants; in 1807 it contained about 500 houses; and in 1810 it contained 11 stone buildings, 283 of brick, and 473 of frame mid log : making in all 767 ; and the number of inhabitants was 4768. Pittsburg has, of course, ncaily doubled its population in ip years' ; and there is every probability that tliis ratio will coiiti- MNNSYLVANI*. 315 Hue for a considerable time to come: so that Httsburg will in all probability become one of the largest towns in America. llie principal public buildings are a court-house, jail, market- house, bank, acrdemy, and 5 places of public worship. There ar hours; i glass-houses; several air-furnaces; several breweries and distille- ries ; two cotton manufactories, and a number of carding machines; a white lead manufactory ; a wire-drawing manufactory, wrought by a steam-engine ; an iron grinding mill, and many others. The following enumeration of the professions exercised in Pitts- burg will show the rapid progress that society has made here. Ma, sons and stone-cutters, brick-mukers, carpenters, cabinet-makers coopers, turners, ship and boat builders, mnchine-makers wheel- wrights, smiths and nailors, brass-founders, copper-smiths tin- smiths, silver-smiths, gun-smiths, cutlers, wire-drawers, wire-work-, ers, lock-smiths, screw and hinge-makers, clock arid watch-makers button-makers, steam engine-builders, bottle-blowers, glass-makers glass-cutters, looking-glass-makers, tanners, curriers, saddlers, boot and shoe-makers, glovers and breeches -makers, butchers, bakers brewers, distillers,. cotton-spinners, weavers, dyers, stocking-makers* tailors, printers, book-binders, marbled paper-makers, ink pow- der-makers, rope-makers, tobacconists, soap-boilers, candle-maker? brush-makers, comb-makers, potters, painters, and white lead! makers. ,y- j,. The manufacturers in all these branches are prospering, and the most of those employed at them are becoming wealthy. Labour is well paid; a few of the prices n^ay be quoted. Carpenters a dol- lar per day; cabinet-makers are paid by the piece, and they can make above a dollar ; smiths and tanners 12 dollars per month, with their board; shoemakers 94 cents for making a pair of slioes, and 2 dollars 50 cents for boots ; shipwrights 1 dollar SO cents per day : other mechanics about 1 dollar; labourers 75 cents. *>/ i\JX, The various manufactures in Pittsburg exceed a million of *ddl- lars annually, and we may calculate its progress in wealth from thi* data. A million of dollars is above 200 dollars a year to every man,' woman, and child in Pittsburg ; or, taking them by families of 5, it is 1000 dolbrs to a family ; and the expenditure of a family does not, on an average, exceed one-third of that sum. This wealth, to .;.3^« :*;f. V. * ;.»''■ *'.' .■.•« 'J^. teed by the cheapness of living, as the following rates will show. House-rent for a mechanic is about 50 or 60 dollars per annum; coals from five to six cents per bushel, delivered, and SOO bushels will serve for one fire 12 months, being from 15 to 18 dollars; flour two dollars per cwt. ; meal 40 cents per cwt. ; potatoes SI cents per bushel ; other vegetables are very cheap ; beef, mutton, and veal from four to six cents per pound ; pork from three to four cents per pound ; bacon from six to ten cents per pound ; venison from three to four and a half cents per pound; fqwis 13^ cents each; ducks 35 cents ; geese from 50 to 75 cents ; turkeys fVom 50 to 100 coitsj fish very plenty and cheap ; cheese from 8 to 12 cents ; butter from 10 to 18 cents ; eggs from 8 to 10 ; beer and porter plenty and rea- sonable ; cyder from two to four dollars'per barrel ; whiskey 40 cento per gallon; peach brandy 80 cents; maple sugar 10 cents P«i^. pound; salt 150 cente per cwt.; seven-hundred country linen fiwn S^S to 40 cents per yard, ^^'t '^ . ./uijf'fx ^\4.doUar exchanges in sterling at 48. 6d. ; a cent is a fractitn mors ^bm a halfpenny. ''r # .# PENN&VLVAN1A. 5 "* TiOBk thii list of prices taken in connexion with the Tolue of Iv^- bour, it will be f^een that an ordinary workman can procure for a day's work 50 pounds of flour ; or 20 pounds of beef; or three bushels of potatoes ; or 27 pounds of pork ; or eight fowls ; <»: four ducks; or two ordinary geese ; or one very large turkey. While this continues to be the case (and I think it will long continue,) it may be fairly inferred that a workman can support his family with the produce of his labour in ease and affluence, and can ac- cumulate a stock of wealth for old age, and for posterity. . The inhabitants of Pittsburg being a collection from all nations, kindreds, tongues, and languages, it muHt naturally be supposed that they will exhibit a considerable variety of manners. The Pittsburg Navigator, a little book containmg a vast variety of information re- garding the western country, the prosperity of which seems to he ■an object of peculiar solicitude with the editoss, thus enumerates them: "They are principally Americans; a good many Irish, some English, some Scotch, some French, Dutch, and Swiss, and a few Welch and Italians." But as they are mostly operative mechanics, having no s^arate interest to keep tlicm at variance, they ace generally friendly and sociable with one another ; and will >in a idiort time assimilate and become one body politic. The pulpit and bar are both respectably supported ; and Pitts- burg is well supplied with good schools. There are two weekly newspapers printed in the town, and there is a general collection of ^ papers brought here from every quarter of the union. The inha- bitants have also established a public library, and some young men \have lately formed themselves into a society for collecting materials Sot a museum. Laudable attention has also been paid to a branch more vduable, perhaps, than any other — the education of youn^ ladies. When we reflect that instruction is the handmaid of vu'lue*-* diat to the female sex belongs the care of man in his early years — >■ that during this period his manners, his habits, and the rudiments of his intellect are formed; when we duly reflect on these things, then will we appreciate the value of female education, and every true patriot will contribute to support it as &r as he has (^pcnrtunity . The situfrtion of Pittsburg is as advantageous as can well be ima* , gined. The Monongahela is about 400 jrards wide at its mouth* ; ; and in the spring and fiUl freshets has sufficient water to carry rhh^-^ - of 400 tons burden. These freshets socm subside^ and lend^ th(^ti navigation precarious for large vessels : but it is pretty gOod lifl ^- '} \l A tm m-d 'i III } k St. \ a 18 TUAVKLS I!f keel boats to Brownsville, nnd tlicncc in small vessels from 100 to 1 40 miles into the interior of the country. The Allegany is navigable to within 14 or 15 miles of lake Eric, and thire is now an excellent turnpike road made over this portage. There are many navigable rivers which full into these two stroamsy so that the quantity of produce that i» daily poured into Pittsburg is immense, and it is yearly increasing. From Pittsburg the Ohio is navigable to its mouth, and thence the navigation is continued to New Orleans. Those rivers are now so well known, that they arc navigated upwards with almost as great facility as downwards, and they communicate with so many important points of the country, that the advantoge to Pittsburg is incalculable. I may just men- tion two or three instances. Lead is brought from St. Louis, near the Missouri ; cotton is brought from Tennesee for four cents per pound ; and suit is brought from the banks of the Great Kanhaway. All the materials lor glass, iron wares, and malt liquors are found in great plenty in the neighbourhood ; and there is an everlasting cupply of coal in the hills all round the town. In the course of my walks through the streets I heard every where the sound of the hammer and anvil ; all was alive ; every thing indicated the greatest industry, and attention to business* The markets were well stocked with provisions and fruit, and the vegetables were, larger than any I had ever seen before. I ascend« ed a handsome eminence, called Grant's Hill, from whence I had a fine view of the town and country. I went accompanied by a friend to visit the glass-works, which we found in excellent order, and one of the workmen prepared for us some glass ware of curious "Workmanship. In the neighbourhood we saw a pottery, at which a great deal of very handsome earthen utensils are manufactured. I carried a letter of introduction to Mr. Rqosvelt, the gentleman who had the management of the steam-boat which was building on the Ohio. He was not at home, but I went to see the boat. It had lately been launched on the Monongahela river, and was the largest vessel I had ever seen which bore the name of a boat. Her dimen- sions were us follows: length 148feet6jnchcs; breadth 32 feet 6 inch- es; depth 12 feet; and she will draw four feet of water. She was ori- ginally intended to run between Pittsburg and the falls of the Ohio, but -*he was Ibund to be too large, and is now destined to run be- tween New Orleans and Natchcs. The ultimate design of thepro- .,piietors is to have six bofat^ to ply Ix-tween the falls and New Or- ri > •« V .t . >v (V,^,\ PBMNSYLVANIA. 319 kAtiB, and five between he fulls nnd PUtiburg. Should Uiia pLin be practicable, uiul earned into tuil execution, it will bo of incal- culable advuntugo to the whole western country. During my stay iu P^taburg, an ecclesiastical trial took placoi which excited a grout deal of interest in the town, and I went, among others, to hear it. The ctise was this. A Mr. Graham, a native of Ireland, Inu^ been bred to the ministry of the gosix;!, among a class of peoput called Camorpnians. lie was unsuccessful in his native country, where he was not able to support his family; and after struggling for some time with the world, and getting a little in debt, he emigrated to this country, where he appears to have been well received by his brethren of the same i)i'rsuasion, in Nor York and Philadelphia. He waH possessed of very popular talents, nnd became a favourite in the diilcrcnt congregations where lie preached ; but a misunderstanding appears to have ioon taken place between him and his brethren uf the ministry ; in consc(|uencc of which, his progress was retarded, and after being builottcd about in various situations to the eastward, he got settled in a snmll congregation 20 or 30 miles from Pittsburg. The differences between him and his brethren appear to have continued and en- creased, and at last came to an open rupture : a charge, which they, called "Jhma clamosa" was instituted against him, and the trial took place in the Cameronian meeting-house of Pittsburg. The court was composed of three clergymen, who appeared to be all opposed to Mr. Graham. The evidence had closed by the time I went to the church, and Mr. Graham rose to make his defence, which con- tinued, with different intervals, part of three days. He was un- commonly eloquent, but dreadfully severe upon his opponents, whom he charged with high crimes and misdemeanors; and, whe- ther he was right or wrong, he ciertainly succeeded in getting the popular voice in Pittsburg in his favour, particularly the ladies. I have more than once taken notice of their influence in society. Tho olfect of it was irresistible in this case. The inhabitants learned that he was poor, and that his poverty would militate much against him in the encounter with his assailants: they raised a considerable subscription for him, and, by the time that the court were ready for a decision, he had become so strong in the public favour, that he could set his brethren at defiance. Without waiting, therefore, tor their sentence, he wrote out his declinature, threw it upon tFiA^ table, walked out of the church, and was followed to his lod^ by u considerable part of the congregation. ' i V r, M ^1 I ■ f I ■ t 7KAVEU IN ' Without inquiriHg who iras right or who was wrong in thb transactiun, 1 may notice, that the circumstances connected with it invulve u question of the most serious importance to man- kind ; and b^r testimony to the value of religious freedom, as enjoyed Ii: the United States. The history of all ages proves that the cliirgy have a strong influence over the mind of the multitude^ and this is great in proportion to the ignorance of their hearers. It is dangerous, therefore, to entrust them with more temponl power than belongs to them, in society, as men. They are men of hke passions with others, and when those of pride, ambition, or jealousy take the lead of reason, assuredly their extraordinary powers, if they have them, will be abused. Had a similar trial taken place in Spain or Poitugal, and the clerical majority been as strong as it was against Mr. Graham in Pittsburg, the victim, so £ur from being supported by a liberal subscription, and escorted to hb lodgings by a number of respectable people, would have been excommunicated and cast out of the true church ; the devil would have been painted on his back ; he would have been led to the stake; and, in the devouring flames, Avould have glutted the vengeance of the priesthood, amid tlie unhallowed hallelujahs of their de» laded votaries. ■ i t 'c. ■ • ; i .:''-^ ■ v^ > : " ' :'' -■■' -^ / ■: ,v^!» I ! ;>h CHAPTER LXVIII. '"' JuurncT/ to Hamiony. ' ' ' '' I SHALL now introduce by name a fellow-traveller. Dr. Isaac Cleaver, of Philadelphia. This gentleman . travelled in tlie stage with me frcxn Bedford ; we lodged together at Pittsburg ; and we now agreed to travel together to visjit the Harmonist Society. With this view, wc procured a couple of hacks, very sorry ones, indeed, and set out fVon» Pittsburg, ou Monday, the 20th of Au- gust, at 6 o'clock in the niorning. . - < •; . - We crossed the AUtgany by a boat. It is here about 400 yards broad, and the deepest iwrt of it seven feet. The current is gentle, and the water remark; bl) puic. On the opposite side of the river there is a narrow bottom of very rich land, after passing which we a.;ccnued pretty steep hiMs, and by a rough road reached a tavern eight miles fi urn tlio rivur. I'lie day waa now very hot, but we ! 1 "^^ FBNKSYLVANIA. 321 could only stop a few minatcs, and moved on six miles, to Dixon's tavern, where we found the landlord completely drunk. The day continuing uncommonly hot, we rested here about half an hour, and, after travelling about a mile, we reached the plains, so called from being a sort of meadow, and destitute of trees. Here we were entirely without shade, and the force of the sun nearly over- powered us. I never recollect to have suffered so much from the heat ; and we got no relief till after travelling four miies; when we reached another tavern at the further end of the plains, where we found a sober, industrious family, busily employed in domestic manufactures. ' . *' ^^ »• . • i •• i* s-: The whole country, from Pittsburg to this place, is rather rough and uncultivated ; and land sells at from two to three dollars per acre. Beyond this, as we continued our journey, we found the country to improve, and approacliing the precincts of the Harmo- nist Society, we passed some of their well cultivated farms. Here the road passes over a cons^iderable hill, and on reaching the top, We saw at a little distance the town of Harmony, elegantly situ- ated amid flourishing and well cultivated fields. We reached the town at 3 o'clock, and proceeded to the tavern, an excellent stone building, where we found good accommodations. Before I proceed to state our transactions at this t)lace, I shalt give an account of the rise and progress of the Harmonist Society. It is chiefly extracted from the appendix to Cumming's Western Tour, published at Pittsburg ; and as we had it revised and cor- rected by Mr. Frederic Rapp, its authenticity may be relied on. " The society had its origin in Wurtemberg, in Germany, about the year 1785. The Lutheran religion was then predominant in thd country, to which every subject was obliged to submit. No- body durst venture to contradict the laws given by the consistory; and no person was left free to believe any system of religion to be true, except what was promulgated by teachers appointed by that body. The fundamental principles which Luiher deduced from the doctrines of Jesus Christ and his apostles, were almost wholly de- stroyed; and in place of religon being made a principle to regener- ate the mind, and regulate the life, it was converted into an engine of power, to keep the people in check to the civil government. " This decline of the church was seen and felt* by George Rapp, who found himself impelled to bear testimony to the fundamental principles cf the christian religion; (imljic »oon got B itcinber of 5 y>-'iX '\ ^4. si^-; ■ S93 TRAVELS IN ' adherents, who formed themselves into a society. But they were despised and persecuted by the consistory, who often subjected them to fines and inipiisonment, because they would not go to the estab- lished church. But they persevered, and the persecution they en- dured encrcased the members of the society. Under these cir- cumstances they groaned for deliverance, and wished for a resi- dence in some part of the world, where they might enjoy religious toleration, and be permitted to worship Goo according to the dictates of their consciences, unmolested by man. Some proposals were made to allow them a piece of land in France, and at last in their own countiy ; but the providence of God has ruled the matter in another way. He discovered to the society America, as if he had said, " that is the country where you shall serve me, and where you shall confess my name." Accordingly the society determined unanimously to go to America, and Mr. Rapp, and some others, were appointed to go before them and seek out m eligible situation in th:it country. " The deputies arrived in safety at Philadelphia in the year 1803, and passing into the western country, they fixed on a situ- ation, and wrote to their friends. In the year 1804', the whole society, consibting of 150 or 160 families, embarked in three ves- sels at Amsterdam. One of these arrived at Baltimore, and the other two at Philadelphia, where Mr. Rapp was waiting to receive , them; and from thence they had to take a troublesome overland journey of 320 miles. In November, 40 of these families moved to the westward ; and, notwithstanding the lateness of the season, they built nine log houses, in which they resided during the win- ter. Next spring 50 more families arrived, which brought the society to 90 families; and in February, 1805, the society was or- ganized into one body, by a consitution grounded on Acts iv. 32. jtnd the multitude of them that believed were of one hearty and of ojie soul : neither said any of them that aught of the things he pos- sessed was his owuy but they had all things common. " Thus constituted, they laid out a town, and in commemora- tion of fheir unity of sentiment, and brotherly alFec^on, they call- ed it Harmony ; and from henceforth they continued to labour in brotherly association, v.nd in common. This year they built 46 . Jiog house's, 1 8 feet by 21' ; a large barn ; and a grist mill) tu I'trhich a race was dug of nearly three quarters of a mile in lengtlu ^IdO acres of ground were cleared for IS for meadow, ..i. corn, 40 for potatoes, ami «£'■ #- PENNSYLVANIA. S23 they were icted them the cstab- n they en- these cir- for a resi- ly religious ing to the e proposals ind at last iS ruled the America, I serve me, the society Rapp, and seek out an in the year •d on a situ- t, the whole in three ves- ore, and the ig to receive me overland ies moved lo the season, ing the win- jrought the iciety was or- Acts iv. 32. heart, and of things he poi- ON. comniepora- on, they call- d to labour i» they built 46 grist mill, to ■nilc in length, potatoes, ami " In 1806 they built an inn, partly of stone, 32 feet by 42, and two stories high ; a frame barn 100 feet long; an oil-mill; a blue- dyer's shop ; and they sunk a tannery. 300" acres of land were cleared for corn, and 58 for meadow. " In 1807 they erected a brick store-house, a saw-mill, and a brew- cry. 400 acres of land were cleared for grain and meadow, and four acres of vines were planted. This year they sold of their produce and manufactures, 600 bushels of grain, and 3000 gallons of whiskey. "In 1808 they built a meeting-house of brick, 70 feet by 55; a brick dwelling-house, and some other buildings, and stables for cuttle; a frame barn, 80 feet long; and a bridge 220 feet long over the Conaquenesing creek. A considerable quantity of ground was cleared, and they sold 2000 bushels of grain, and manufac* tured 1400 into whiskey. " In 1809 they built a fulling mill, which does a great deal of business for the country ; a hemp mill, an. oil mill, a grist mill, a brick warehouse, 46 feet by 36, having a wine cellar, completely arched over ; and another brick building of the same dimensions. A considerable quantity of land was cleared. The produce of this year was, 6000 bushels of Indian corn, 4500 bushels of wheat, 4500 bushels of rycj 6000 bushels of oats, 10,000 bushels of po- tatoes, 4000 lbs. of flax and hemp, 100 bushels of barley brewed into beer, and SO gallons of sweet oil, made from the white poppy, and equal to the imported olive oil. Of this produce they sold 3000 bushels of corn, 1000 bushels of potatoes, 1000 bushels of wheat; and they distilled 1600 'ushels of rye. -^^^ "In 1810 a wool-carding machine and two spinning jennies were erected, for the fabrication of broad cloth from the wool of merino sheep. A frame bafn was built 100 feet long, and a brick house built to accommodate 20 weavers' looms in the under story ; the second to be destined for a school-room." The improvements w-ere going on rapidly when we visited them, and every thing wore the appearance of an old established settle- ment. A great variety of articles of the manufacture of the socie- ty had been sold, besides the produce of the ground; such as shoes, boots,, ssddles, smith-work, cloth, &c.; and tlrese and other manufactures were rapitlly increasing. A- rtibte full develope- ment of their principles and economy, will AppcAt ii&aat^tf ol^eets that came under our view, in the course of ou'i* visit.' " - tf* On our arrival at the inn, we learned that tlrt iii9ke«^iJw'«ii of the society, and bad been appointed to thats^^finj k i^i .*i,*r^-- ^^'A-^ l\ 334 TRAVELS IK ! .' I could tnlk the English language fluently. He told us that we would get every information that we could desire. My fellow- traveller inquired whether they had a doctor, and on being an- swered in the affirmative, he was sent for, and as he could also talk the English language, and was moreover very agreeable in his manners, and an excellent botanist, we were happy in the proffer of his services. We bad next a visit from Mr. Rapp, his sons, and several other members of the society. 'Hio old man's face lieamed with intelligence, and he appeared to have a conscious* ncss of having performed a good work ; but he could not speak English, and as we could only communicate our sentiments by an interpreter, we had but little conversation with him. Having collected a great variety of information regarding the society, we took a walk round the town, viewed the creek on which it is built, and returned to the inn, where we found good attendance, and ex- cellent accommodations. At sun-rise next morning we heard the bell ring, and in a quarter of an hour thereafter, the people were at their respective employments ; all was bustle and activity. The innkeeper accompanied us to see the society's shepherds and sheep. We passed Conaquenesing creek, by a wooden bridge, ornamented with flowers, and observed a low meadow on our left, which we were informed had been drained with a good deal of labour, and was now converted into excellent pasture ground; a pleasure garden called the labyrinth, and a botanic garden, being in the east end of it, right opposite to the bridge. Beyond this, on the side of the creek, were various houses for dying, fulling, and dres^ng cloth. The ground rises to a considerable elevation on the north side of the creek, and on our way up we perceived about 100 sheep, which we were told had just arrived from Washington, Pennsylvania, and had not yet been distributed among the main flock. On arriving at the sheep-pens, we found the flock to consist of about 1000, and they were separated into three divisions. The first were all of the me- rino breed, the most of them full blooded ; the second about half merinos and half common ; and the third were all common, with some merino rams amongst them. They were under the charge of three shepherds, who sleep beside them all night in moveable tents ; and a watchman from the town attends Uiem during the night. We were informed that the society intended to increose the flock, as fast as possible^ to SOOO ; and to progress with the ml"' "A ;«8P:-:- ►*i-,^^^_.__ _.., rsNNgYLVANIA. 325 manufacture of woollen oloth, which they found very lucrative, as fast as circumstances would permit. «, , After breakfast we visited the different branches of manufacture. In the wool-loft, eight or ten women were employed In teasing and sorting the wool fur the carding machine, which is at a dis- tance on the creek. From thence the roves are brought to the spinning-house, in the town, where we found two roving billies and six spinning jennies at work. They were principally wrought by young girls, and they appeared perfectly happy, singing church music most melodiously. In the weaving-house 16 looms ^erc at work, besides several warpers and winders. In our way through the town we observed shoemakers, taylors, and saddlers at work ; and we passed on to view the smith- work, which is very extensive. They have 4 or 5 forges for ordinary work, and one for nails, at which we were diverted by observing a dog turning a wheel for blowing the bellows. It brought to my re- collection the remark made on the English by Dr. Franklin's negro boy, " Dese people make ebery thing workee, only de hog." From the blacksmith's we passed to the barns, which, we were told contained a stock of grain sufficient to last a year, and tliat it was the intention of the society to keep up that stock ; but they did not mean to raise any grain for sale, their object being to ap> ply all the surplus labour of the society to manufactures. Con- tiguous to the barns is an orchard, containing about 25 acres of ground, well stocked with grafted fruit-trees, though they have not }'et come to maturity. A hemp-brake, on a new construe* tion, the model of which they got from Kentuck}', was behind the barns. It is driven by two horses, and is found to answer remark- ably well. In this neighbourhood is the brew-house : but it was not in operation when we saw it. It is a convenient building, and at the back of it is a hop-garden, and pait of the hop» were growing in at the windows. We likewise observed them growing very luxuriantly in most of tlie gardens in the town ; so that the materials for beer and porter must be very abundant. We had some of the porter at the tavern, of as good quality as I have ever tasted in London. After dinner we visited the soap and candle works ; the dye works; shearing and dressing works; the turners, carpenters, and machine-makers; and, finally, we were conducted through the warehouses, which we found plentifully stored with comm9diiie»i • II iwi /. .,-<'' ■■i '\'^"f -M. # i i^i' M m TltAVELS m It m li (it 1^4 :i *i. among others, we saw 450 pieces of broad and narrow cloth, part of it of merino wool, and of as good a fabric as any that was ever made in England. We were told that they could sell the best broad cloth, as fast as made, at 10 dollars per yard. From the warehouses we went to the Labyrinth, which is a most elegant flower-garden, with various hedge-rows, disposed in such a manner as to puzzle people to get into the little temple, emble- matical of Harmony, in the middle. Mr. Rapp abruptly left us as we entered, and we soon observed him over the hedge-rows, taking his seat before the house. I found my way with difficulty ; but the doctor, whom I left on purpose, could not find it, and Mr. Rapp had to point it out to him. The garden and temple are emblematical. The Labyrinth represents the difficulty of arriv- ing at Harmony. The temple is rough in the exterior, showing that, at a distance, it has no allurements ; but it is smooth and beautiful within, to show the beauty of harmony when once at- tained. ■ ^' - "' .:. ,->^.v. i-.. .^..■■: , -...>», -^x^v ■•■ From the Labyrinth we went to the Botanic garden, which is well stored with valuable plants and herbs ; and the two doctors pored over them more than an hour. We afterwards went to the doctor's house, where he showed us an elegant collection of plants, all natives of Harmony, which he had carefully arranged agreea- bly to the Linnaean system. In the evening the society assembled to divine service, and we attended, accompanied by our innkeeper, who conducted us to a seat appropriated for strangers. The church was quite full, the number of persons being not less than 500. The women sat all in one end ; the men in the other. They were singing a hymn, in which they all joined with one accord, and so simply, yet so sweetly, did they sing, that it brought to my recollection the paa» sage in Burns' Cotter's Saturday Night : •n '•}- n^vWtvta: They chaurit their artless notes in simple guis0^ They tune their hearts, by far the noblest aim. ' We followed their I did not under- After singing, they sill knelt down to prayer. example ; and never did I pray more devoutly. stand one word of the prayer ; but I saw that this interesting so- August 22d. This day, accompanied by the society's doctor, we went to see the mills and machinery. In our way we passed through one of the vineyards, which is situated on the face of a steep hill, on the north side of the creek, and is converted into a number of terraces, supported by walls of stone, in the manner that they cultivate the hills in China. We ascended by a regu- lar flight of 1 37 steps ; and from the top we had a fine view of the whole settlement, and of the country round. We were told it was the intention of the society to build a Uttle temple here, tp b«j called Harmony Hall, wlicrc they would occasionally practise music. From tiience we went to the eastward about a mile, through a wood, and came to a cultivated vallc}', through which runs Little Conaquenesing creek. Here the society have built a iiubstantial stone house, in which are a grist-mill, a hemp-mill, an oil-mill, a fuUingomill, and a carding machine. In the oil-milt they crush pumpkin-seed, which yields good oil, and food for tbi^ ' f »■■' I' V a ;*• . It'* ».'!■ »1 i.. S2& * TRAVELS IN I cattle. We crossed over the valley, which abounded with grain, clover, and hemp, about a mile, to Large Conaquenesing creek, where the maaons and labourers were at work building a very ele- gant mill of hewn stone, which, when finished, will be a most im- portant addition to the society's improvements. It is impossible to convey any adequate idea of the diligent industry and persever* ance of this extraordinary people : wherever wc went we found them all activity and contentment. Here, at a situation where they could not carry the clay for bedding the dam in wheel-barrows, they were carrying it in baskets upon their backs ; but they have every in- ducement to perseverance — they are all on an equal footing— every member is e(]ually interested in the good of the society. In this neighbourhood the society have a village, where the doc> tor having to visit a patient, who was the superintendant, we ac- companied him. On entering the house wc tbund the family at din- ner, and we were invited to partake of it. We did not much like the appearance of the dish, which was called noodles; but on tast- ing it we found it to be very palatable, and on it, and some eggs, with bread and milk, we made a very excellent dinner. Noodles is made in this way : a quantity of flour is kneaded into a paste, and is cut into small slices; these are mixed with, small pieces of beef or mutton, and they arc boiled together, with or without seasoning, as the taste of the cook may determine. We returned to the town, about a mile and a half distant, and in our way passed the brick-works and burial-ground ; which last is prettily situated on a sloping ground, railed in : but no grave- stones are erected, — the plan of the society being to ornament it >vith flowers. In the course of our journey the doctor told us a remarkable a- necdote. One of the boys at school was observed, one day, to weep, and on being asked what was the matter, he said he was afraid he had been verj' wicked. A number of the others caught the infection, and began also to cry. It ultimately pervaded the whole school, and nothing would satisfy the children until they called on Mr. Rapp, the pastor, and made a confession of their transgressions. From the young, the spirit of contrition fell upon the more mature in years, who, one by one, waited upon Mr. Bapp, to make their con- fession. Of the number was the doctor, who told us he found bim< self impelled by nn impulse which was irresistible to wait on Mr. Rapp also: to him he laid open his whole heart ; on which the old I ( .^ PENNSYLVANIA. * 329 raan pressed him to his bosoms told him that now he knew his whole loul, and those of the other members of the society, he had perfect confidence in them, and was assured that they would persevere in thftgood work they had begun, which would be a life of heavenly joy and rejoicing in this world, and it would terminate in a state of everlasting felicity in the next. On our return to the village we went to see the bee-hives. They were situated in a shed, built on purpose, with a southern exposure, and a flowering shrubbery was in front of them. There were a- bout 40 hives, and they appeared all in a thriving condition, and equally industrious with their employers ; who, in return, bestowed great attention upon them, and took the produce of their surplus labour without destroying their lives. We were infor ned that the society got a considerable quantity of their materials for manufactures from their own produce, and from the country round. Wrought iron they get from Pitts- burg, and cast irdin from Beaver. They keep an assortment of dry.* goods and groceries, which they get principally from Philadelphia ; and, as they dispose of them at a moderate profit, they have an ex- tensive sale in the country. They dress cloth to the country people from 50 to 60 miles distant. The town of Harmony is situated on the south side of Conaque- nesing creek, and the property of the society extends round it ; to the west about half a mile ; to the east two miles and a half; to the north about three miles ; and to the south three miles. They have about 9000 acres of land, of which 2500 acres are in a state of cul- tivation ; and, besides the town, they have three farming villages, and some farmers in detached parts of the settlement The land is pretty fertile, producing abundantly grain, grass, fruit, vegeta- bles, hemp, and flax. The town is regularly laid out. There is a square of 75 by 100 feet, in the middle ; and three streets run east and west, and tlirce north and south, crossing one another at right angles. The main street is 50 feet wide, and the others 32 feet. The town is subdivid- ed into lots of a quarter of an acre each, and every family has its own house and lot, with a couple of milk cows, and as many hogs and poultry as they choose to keep. The rest of their provisions, and their clothing, is furnished by the society ; in return, their la- bour falls into the common stock. Hence every family is, in effect, independent within itself, as far as domestic arrangements are con^ 42 r .^1 ^ ^ 1 111 I m KJ r .. 330 ^ TKAVFLS IN ceriieii ; iind thrj mc nil united, at the tiume time, in n body, tha joint eft'ect ol" whose labour in irresistible. I'hc town at present con* sists inootly of log-hous'js ; but uk soon ns the public buildings are iinikhed, a brick-house is to be built for each member. The society now consists of about 800 persons ; and the oiKTative members, are nearly ris follow: 100 fanners, three shepherds, lo masons, three btone*cutters, three brick-makers, 10 carpenters, two sawyers, 10 smitiis, two waggon-makers, three turners, two nailors» seven coopers, three rope makers, 10 shoemakers, two saddlers, tiuee tanners, seven taylors, one soap-boiler, one brewer, four dis- tillers, one gardener, two grist-mlUers, two oil-millers, one butcher, six joiners, six dyers, dressers, shearers, &c., one fuller, two hatters, two potters, two warpers, 1 7 weavers, two carders, eight spinners, one rover, one minister of religion, one schoolmaster, one doctor, one store-keeper with two sssistants, and one tavern-keeper with one assistant. , The basis of the society is religion, and all their temporal con- lerns are managed in subserviency to it. The greater part of the pi-ople were bred in the Lutheran persuasion, and their views of r«- ligion are nearly in conformity to it ; but the principles which bind them together as a society may be shortly expressed : love to god— ^ GOODWILL TOWARDS MEN — PURITY OF LIFE — AND A COMMUNITY OF GOODS. The pastor is considered as having the ci^U of God ; his prayers and sermons are delivered extempore : and if he be in- disposed or absent, the society meet and confer on religious sub- jects. He is assisted in ihe management of the religious concerns by elders and deacons appointed by the society. The youth of the society are kept at school until they are 14 years old. The school hours are in the forenoon, and the afternoon is de- voted to such labour as they can easily perform, it being a branch of the economy of ihe society to teach Uie youth to labour as well as % to read and write. They are taught both the German and English languages, with writing and Arithmetic, and such as may be des* < lined for the study of medicine will receive a college education. At 14) the male youths m.ike choice of a profession, and learn" it where if. is carried on in the society. The females, at the same age, are occupied in the usual branches of female labour. On Sunday the society meet in their religious capacity, at 9 o'clock, in the school-room, to examine the children, who exhibit different specimens of their performances. This ends about II. v> ". ,^ ->#r. *I^ PENNSYLVANI*. ous concerns I ?3l They meet in the church nt 1 2, when they go through the same ex- ercises ns tliose before noticed, which lasts about an hour and a half. They hnvc another meeting at 6 o'clock in the evening ; and besides the mcvi tings on Sunday, they have a sermon two nights in the week. There is no instance of the church being neglected by those who afe well and able to walk. It is their delight to attend it, and the religious and moral deportment of the whole society is highly praiseworthy. There is no vicious habit among them. There is not an instance of swearing, or lying, or debauchery of any kind ; and as to cheating, so commonly practised in civili/ed society, they have no temptation to it whatever. As individuals, tlicy have no Use for money — and they have no fear of want. • « -.>« The temporal ccmccrns are conducted in a very orderly manner, having supcrintendauts in each branch, who manage thcui under the general direction of the society. There are five nmstcr fanners, one master mason, one master shoemaker, (who cuts out all the lea- ther,) one master taylor, and so on of the other branches. Fredoi- ick Rapp superintends the manuHicturing establishment ; and has the gcncml direction, under the society, of all the money matters, and mercantile concerns. When l!ie society was first established here, the whole of their property, after defraying their expences, amounted to only alrout 20,000 dollars, and this was soon exhausted in the payment of the land, and in supporting themselves until they could bring their industry into operation. Thus, without money, and without credit, tliey suffered great privations, ni consequence of v/hich a number of their members shrunk from the difficulty, and retired into the state of Ohio, to provide for themselves in a separate capacity. As they required what they had put into the common stock, the so- ciety were thrown into some difficulty to raise it ; but they got it accomplished, and they have now drawn up written articles, to be signed by those who join them, calculated to prevent any inconve- nience of that kind in future. By those articles, such as may •choose to retire are entitled to demand all that they put into the concern by certain instalments, but no interest. Any person may join the society, and the mode of doing so is equally simple with all their other resculations. The candidate intimates his intention, and is received upon trial, for one month, during which he lives at the tavern. If he is then satisfied, and chooses to conform to their principles of morality, (they have no religious test,) he is fortliwith ' t I '. ^: .>*■" ■r S32 ' TRAVELS IK received as a mentlier, and k entitled to all the privileges of the so>* ciety. If he is rich, he depositeti all his property in the common stock : if he is poor, " he has no lack ;" all his wants are supplied out ot' that stock. , The stock of the society we estimated as follows : 0000 acres of land, with improvements dot. 90,000 Stock of provisions for one year, for 800 persons « 25,000 Mills, machinery, and public buildings •" i 21,000 Dwelling houses i . ?, ] 8,000 Horses, cattle, hogs, and poultry 10,000 1000 sheep, one-third of them merino«{»r of which one ram coat 1000 dollars J ^ 6,000 Stock of goods, spirits, manufactures, Utttiwr, implements of husbandry, &c. &c* J| ^ 50,000 dot, 220,000 It may be retnarked, that the socidHKBchased their land for about 20,000 dollars, so that 70,000 j^Ejff of the rise is upon it ; but they have cleared 2500 acres, wtj^B Ads to the value of the rest, and the rise of the land in tlraPrinr is always a favourable circumstance to new settlers, whj|| ori the other hand, have many privations to undergo. It has been doubted whether the society will continue united, on which alone depends their prosperity. From the principles on which the connexion is formed, and the ol^cts they have in view, I am of opinion they will not only continue united, but that they will, in all probability, be a model for other societies. If their union continue, their pros})ects are bright indeed, both for time and eternity. Here they have the mutual dd of each other, and are free from a thousand temptations to which mankind in general are subjected. Having no fear of want, they have literally no care for the mor- row ; they have no use for money, " the love of which is the root of all evil ;" they can attend to the worship of the great spirit with single hearts, and undivided minds, and all the duties of life are easy, because they go hand in hand with self-interest; in health they have the fellowship of people of the like mind with themselves; in sickness they have the advice and assistance of friend?, on whom they can rely with perfect confidence; of a medical miia who can have no wish but to render them a service; and of a minister of ^i ^ rSKKSYLVAVIA. $9S ^ligion to pour the balm of spiritual consolation into their wounil- ed apiritv, " without money, and without price ;*' at death they can resign their offspring to the charge of the society, in tlie full con- fidence of their well-being ; which single circumstance disarms the l(rim messenger of more than half his terrors. And the purity of tbeir life having fitted them for the enjoyment of God, they can resign their spirits into the hands of the merciful Father of spirits ; and their bodies being consigned to the duMt, among the abodes of their brethren, their graves are so many memorials of their virtues* On toking my leave, I breathed forth my best wishes for th« prosperity of this interesting society, in the words of my favourite Jjard — ■ - ^ ■ - ^ it May fraedom, Aarmony, and Imt, , ■ ^ Unite you in U>e grand design, '^ \ Beneadi the Omniscient eye above^ ' The glorious Architect divine ! lliat you may koap th' unerring line^ Still rising by the plunmnct's law, .m * .^ Till order bright coin|>letely ihina, ^ > Shall be my prayer when far awa'. We rode round by 2^1ionople, half a mile from Harmony, where the society first attempted to fix tbeir town ; but some dificr- ence happening between them and the proprietor of the grounds^ they moved to the eastward, where they are now situated; and Zc- lionople looks like " a deserted village," having a few miserable . wooden houses only. On our return, my travelling companion, who was remarkably agreeable, pointed out a great number of valuable plants and herbs, and gave me a little insight into the important science of botany ; but I found the field so extensive, that I was obliged to de- cline following up the study till a more convenient season. I em- braced the opportimity however of remarking to my friend, that it would be an object of great scientific importance to the United States, if some fit person would make a botanical and mineralogi- cal tour; and I wos convlr>ced he would be very well reward«d fo*^^ his trouble by the public. My friend acquiesced in my opinion^ ^^ flnd stated that nothing would give hkn more pleasure than to exo cute such a tour, of which he had some intoition at a future period. We readied Pittsburg at 9 o'clock at nt^t, when, delivering up our " sorry hacks," we pursued our woy to our old lodgings. \ i .«v, ■•iiSiaiJ \ \- V -' 1 . ''5'** ■ ^ •1 ,V /V 1 .- f- ;-'-^«i - * .J ^^H^lMRlt li «^ H W^m/m jfL^ iWii ilCTlM 1^." - ■ SSI ■ i . • TRAVELS OH CHAPTER LXIX. f , ,.- A Ohio liivcr, — Beaver^ — GeorgetCwn, — Stuhenvillc. JL NOW prepared to descend tlie Ohio. There are various way* of travelling on that river, and the traveller must adapt himself to one or other of these, according to the .state of the water. In spring and fall the river is high, and can be navigated with ease by any vessel. The spring freshets commence about the middle of February, at the breaking up of the ice, and continue for three, sometimes four months. Those in the fall commence in October, and continne till the middle or latter end of December. But the state of the river varies according to the wetness or dryness of the seasons, and the earlincss or lateness of the setting in of the winter,* The principal vessels used for descending the Ohio, are canoes, skiffs, Kentucky and New Orleans boats, keel boats, and barges. Ships have been constructed on the Ohio, of considerable burden ; but that trade is at present nearly suspended, and the steam-boats have not yet gone into operation. Canoes are the most simple of all vessels, and consist of a log of wood shaped into a long boat, and excavated in the middle, so as to accommodate passengers and their travelling equipage. They sell for from one to three dollars. Skiffs are well known. They are built of all sizes, are used with or without sails, and can be had for from 5 to 30 dollars. . > > Kentucky and New Orleans boats are flats, with sides boarded like a house, about six or seven feet high, over which there is an arched roof. They are of various sizes, but generally large enough to contain 400 barrels of flour ; and sell for from one dollar Ha a dollar and a half per foot in length. Keel-boats, so called from being built upon a small keel, are con- structed to draw but little water, so that they are remarkably well adapted to the navigation of these rivers, and as they are strongly manned, and ply both upward and down\yard, they are getting into general use, and ate perhaps the best passage boats on the Ohio. Tlie price of them is about two and a half or three dollars per foot k3arges are well known. They also sail up and down the river; • Pittsburg Navigator. ■-*N» t f 4 THB OHIO RIVER. S35 but this species of vessel U principally used below Cincinnati and the falls. The water was very low when I was at Pittsburg, and was still subsiding; and I learned that it was with diiliculty that any vessel could descend, except a skiff. A Mr. Ward, from Massachussets, had made the attempt in n keel-boat, but it was set fast, jnnd he was obliged to return to Pittsburg. I found that he had made an arrangement with the Frenchman, my former fellow-traveller, to go with him in a skiff; and I made interest to be of their party, and was admitted. The Frenchman was an original genius. He had travelled far and wide, by sea and land ; he could talk three or four different languages ; he had been at as many different professions ; he was, in short, a Jack of all trades, and his name was Jean Baptist Sy- mons. As seamanship v. as one of his professions, we confided the care of the boat to him and Mr. Ward, and I procured the neces- sary provisions. The skiff was a small vessel, belonging to Mr. Synious, having a mast and sail, two oars, a setting pole, and an awning over the stern. Our stock of provisions was a large bacon X ham, two loaves of bread, and some cheese, which we put in a box; a quantity of crackers, some whiskey, and a small cask of porter. These articles, together with our trunks, we put on board the skiff, and stepping on board ourselves, in the Monongahela river, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we got under weigh. Having no wind, we had to man our oars ; and, the river being low, w« , had but little assistance from the current. The banks of the river are steep, and rise to a considerable ele- vation, when there is generally a botly of level ground on each side, called bottoms, from whence the river hills rise to the height of from 200 to 500 feet. The bottoms are very various in extent, some of them being a mile broad, and others only a few yards. Being a deposite of rich earth from the river, they are very fertile. On entering the Ohio, we had a fine view of the two rivers of «:hich it is composed, and of the remarkable contrast between their waters; those of the JNIononguhela being muddy, and those of t ha Allegany quite pure and transparent. The distinction can be noticed a considerable way down the Ohio. The Ohio is here about 600 yards broad, and its course is north-west. The afternoon v, a« clear, warm, and pleasant; and we had an agreeable sail, durin;^ which we passed several islands, to a small tavern oa the right I - 4 '*''il ^4; H A' ^^. "if \ > » S36 . j.^ TRAVELS ON hand, 12 miles from Pittsburg, where we stopped for the night. The lands thus far are, to use a common expression here, all taken up, and the price is about 10 or 12 dollars per acre. Tlie scenery is rich, and the banks of the river abound with coal and freestone. The principal timber is walnut, cherry, hickory, and sycamore. August 24th. This morning we started at 6 o'clock. The fog was so thick on the river that we could hardly, see 10 yards round us. The thermometer stood at 54-* in the air, and T*" in the water. We engaged a young man to take us over a bar, here called a rip- ple, a little way below, and taking the oars, he carried us along very swiftly. As our appetites were a little whetted by the water air, we looked to our provisions, and behold, our large ham was gone ! We accused the dogs ; but the young man bore testimony to their honesty, and told us it must have been stolen by the wolves. It was the wolves sure enough. We discovered the tracks of their feet upon the skifl^ and some of their strong hair was found upon the box, which we thence called the wolf-box ; and our Frenchman consoled himself for the loss of our ham by cursing and damning the wolves. The day cleared up about 8 o'clock, when we stopped for break- fast at the plantation of a Mr. McDonald, who told us his father was a Scotsman. He had a good plantation, on a fine bottom ; but it had been Ijttely overflowed by the river, which swept away the fences, and otherwise greatly injured the property. After breakfast we were overtaken by an Indian canoe, and we entered into conversation with the natives, who we found could talk the English language quite fluently. We learned that they were from the neighbourhood of Utica, in the state of New York, where the Indians are considerably improved in agriculture, and they were under the direction of a society of quakers, on a mission to White Water river, in the Indiana territory, to teach that sci- ence to an Indian tribe settled there. We sailed together to Bea- ver, 30 miles below Pittsburg, where we stopped a short time, and engaged one of them to pull our boat. Beaver is situated on the north side of the Ohio river, a little bblow Beaver creek, and is on a high stony plain ; but it docs not appear to be thriving. It has about 30 houses, a jail, post-office, and three or four taverns and stores. Bcavfer creek is CO yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable by small vessels abouf 50 miles into the interior of the country. An iron furnace, and a number of grist and saw-mills have been erected on this crock. if ' • <»•< T' 1/ , TNI OHIO mVER. 337 On setting out, our Indian, who had been accustomed to the pad- dle only, made a sad plashing and floundering in the water with the oars ; but it was not long before he got into the knack of it, and puUod away pretty well. We had but a poor bargain of him, however, and soon discovered that he was, to use a Scots phrase, " a. drouthy neighbour," and he did like the phisky^ as he termed it, most dearly. We proceeded to Georgetown, 12 miles from Beaver, where we stopped for the night. GfiORGGTOWN is situated on an eminence, on the left bank of the river, and consists of only a tew dwelling-houses, two stores, and a post-office. Tliere is an air-spring in the river near this place. August 25th. We started from Georgetown at 6 o'clock; the morning was foggy ; the thermometer stood at 56°. A little below Georgetown we passed the Pennsylvania state-line, and we now sail- ed between the states of Ohio and Virginia. Fourteen miles be- low Georgetown we passed Yellow creek, in the state of Ohio, on which we were told there was a thriving; settlement of emitrraRts from Scotland ; and a little beyond the creek, amidst elegant sce- nery, 4^ the river's bank, we drew up our boat under a delightful shady grove* -^nd had dinner. We had at Georgetown purchased a couple of be !'. 1 chickens, for twelve and a half cents, on part of which we m o >' .,ted without stopping the boat, and the remainder now constituted our dinner. — Cheap travelling. The scenery con- tinued elegant all the way to Steub'enville, '60 miles from George- town, which we reached near dark. Steuben ville is situated on an elevated second bank of the river. It was laid out in 1798, and consists now of nearly 200 dwelling- houses, and 880 inhabitants. The buildings are handsome and ccm- modious, a great many of them being of brick. The public build- ings are a court-house, jail, church, a bank, a land-office, post-office, and printing-office. There are seven taverns, and 12 stores, and the town is increasing, but not rapidly. As it was Sunday evening when we landed, and as we started before the land-office was open, 1 had not an opportunity of making a par- ticular inquiry regarding Steubenville District. The few facts which came to my knowledge I shall here communicate. It extends from the Connecticut reservation on the north to the Marietta district on the south, a distance of 72 miles ; and its extreme breadth at the Mrth end is 60 miles, at the south end 42. Its area is about 2900 43 *^'*4» ^l^_: *»-••■■■ m. n 33S TRAVELS ON square miles ; and embraces nearly four counties, containing about 42,000 inhabitants, all settled here within 20 years. The Ohio river washes the eastern part of the district upwards of 60 miles, and in all this distance, except in the bottoms, the country on the margin of the river is rather rough ; but further back there is much good land, and the settlements on it are numerous antl very important ; it is remarkably well watered, there being upwards of 20 streams that run into the Ohio, besides those that nm into the Muskingum and Lake Erie ; and the head waters of all these being situated in the district, shows that it must be an elevated country. These rivers are mostly fed by springs, and they drive a great quan- tity of machinery. The timber is oak, hickory, walnut, maple, cher- ry, locust, &c. The climate is temperate and healthy ; and judg- ing from the countenances of the/air at Steubenville, I should sup- pose entirely congenial to human life. There are numerous towns erected in this district, and the buildings keep pace with the pros- perity of the people, which is increasing most rapidly. Agricultur- ists and mechanics are, of course, the principal inhabitants; -they are all operative people, and have made " the wilderness to blossom as the rose." The roads, bridges, and other improvements all bear testimony to the industry of the inhabitants, who are mostly from the New England states, than whom a more industrious people were never, and I question whether any other were ever so well adapted to the settlement of a new country. The United States' lands are sold at two dollars per acre, and a great portion of them still remains undisposed of in this district; but not of the best quality. "What is in private hands may be reck- oned worth from 10 to 12 dollars on the bottoms of the Ohio, and from three to five dollars in the interior of the country. Farmers and mechanics are best adapted to the country, and every sort of manufactures that constitute the necessaries of life are in demand, for which the materials are all on the spot in abundance, except cotton ; and it is brought up the river to Steubenville, at about four cents per pound. Upon the whole, this is a flourishing district, and will, in all probability, double its population in lOyear^. ''Vk..l M I THB OHIO RIVBR. $$9 CHAPTER LXX. 'N Wheelitig,- -Long Reachy — Marielta. except August 26th, we left Steubenvllle about 8 o'clock ; the morn- ing was foggy ; the temperature of the atmosphere 60". Wc pro- ceeded down the river three miles, when, Mr. Ward having sonie inquiries to make, we stopped at a very handsome plantation, situ- ated on the Ohio side, on an extensive bottom, which rai$>cd corn, oats, barley, hemp, wheat, and rye, in great abundance; and there was a peach orchard literally loaded with fruit. ** There was c- nough, and, to spare," here, of both ding-stones vend free-stones ,- and having ate heartily, we took a supply in our boat. On moving off from the bank an Irishman of the name of Hanlon requested we would carry him about two miles, and land him on the other side of the river, which we agreed to, and he gave us a good deal of in- formation regarding that part of the country. lie told us that he was a boat-builder, and had removed from Philadelphia to this country, where he had resided five years. He liked this country much better than Philadelphia, principally on account of its tem- perate climate, and the ease with which he could procure a liveli- hood. The summers here are mnch cooler, and the winters much warmer than to the eastward. He could make one dollar 50 cents per day, and the expense of boarding was only one dollar 50 cent» per week. Six miles from Steubenville we passed Charleston, a neat little place, situated on the Virginia side, on a high bank. We did not land here; but we were told it was an excellent flour market, which commodity sells at present at four dollars per barrel. We dined by the way on broiled chickens, which we purchased at Steuben- vllle, for six and a quarter cents each ; and after a very agreeable sail we reached W^heeling, 23 miles from Steubenville, at five o'clock in the evening. On lauding here, we found the Indian canoe had got before us, and our rower went to join his companions. The master of the boat came and informed us, that his man was not to pull any more for us, because wc had not used him well. We were surprised, and inquired what was the matter. It was simply this — we had not given him wkiskei/ enough. We had noticed that he freq^ucqtly .< *-." * ..if I' I =1 10 J-?'' *\. ^■•^■ '4. m*-^ .Vim 3^0 TRAVELS OM ' l^<1 ':h>- I stopped, and called out " I tire, I tire," which we thought im- possible, as he was a very stout fellow, and required an explanation. " O, me no tire," says he, " what you call tire ; when I say / tirCf then that is, Ixmnt phiskey.'" A spiritual explanation, faith 1 We incrcascil his libation, but not to an extent, it appeared, to meet his magnificent ideas, and his red worship was quite dissatisfied that we poured it out for him in a glass ; he must have the whole bottle, forsooth, to his head ! This however we would not indulge him in. The truth is, wc had laid it down as a rule to be very circumspect in giving him whiskey, and, though we had given him a great quantity in all, wc gave him but a moderate dose at a time, and it was always diluted with water. The Indian did not half like this, and made the complaint to his captain already noticed. As we found him to be useful, we were unwilling to part with him for a trifle, so, ailer paying his wages, we promised to give him the bottle to his head next day, every time he cried " I tire," and he agreed to continue with us. But the wages never fuund the way to the bottom of his Indianship's pocket ; it was instantly laid out in whiskey, and in a short time he appeared on the beach as royal- ly drunk as ever a royal duke among them all, inquiring whether there was a tavern on the other side of the river ; which being an- swered in the aflirmative, he jumped into the water, and had actu« ally reached the middle of it before he was brought back. Wheeling is situated on a high bank, on the Virginia side, and has nothing prepossessing in its appearance. Some ponds in the neighbourhood of the town had polluted the air, and a great many of the inhabitants had been seized with a bilious fever, and fever and ague ; being the first sickness I had heard of since 1 passed the banks of the Susquehanna. The improvements do not seem to keep pace on the Virginia side, with those in the state of Ohio, and it is very questionable whether this will ever be a place of much consequence, although the situation appears favourable, the great road to the western country passing through it. But the existence of slavery is a damji- cr upon the operations of the white people, " who will not work if thpy have slaves to work for them," and, idleness being the parent of vice, society degenerates : good men seek out a situation more congenial to the practice of virtue, and " evil -^oen and seducers wax worse and worse." " isf ; " '^' -- As we stood upon the beach at this place, a large skill' drew to- THE OHIO RIVER. 3il vrards the shore, In which th*? proprietor had four negro children, theoldesl &br>ut li, the youngest about 4 yenrs of age. He told us that he had left IiIk home, in Maryland, with the children, and their father and mother^ in order to carry them down the nvtr, to a market. ' Finding that he could dispose of the man by the way to advantage, he had sold him. The nigtit after, the woman (whom he reproached e.s an unnatural v rstch for leaving her chil- dren) had ran away, a.id he was obliged tc go on wiilk tbc childrci without her I The three youngest bud not reflection ei ough to feel their loss; ihey jumped out of the boat, ana played about upon the sand : they were pretty Ctiildren. But the eld*"8t sat in the boat, the emblem of heart-i'ending grief and despair ! — I do not know that in the whole course of my life l ever had my feelings 80 severely tried. I hid my face with my hands, that those accus- tomed to such scenes might not perce've my weakness, and with a heavy heart walked towards the Inn, preying that the Merciful Dis- poser of all things would, in liie course of his providence, provide for these poor innocents, who are doomed to slavery^ a more gentle master than the hard-hearted man who at present possessed .m ab- solute dominion over them. Tuesday, the 27th of August. We started at 8 o'clock. The morning had been foggy, but was now clear. The thermometer stood at 60*. The scenery on the river continues nearly the same as above ; the banks are high, with pretty large bottoms, particu- larly on the Virginia sitle. We tried to accommodate matters with our friend the Indian, hut without effect. We found he was " tire" every quarter of an hour, and, as often as he put the bottle to his head, he beckoned to his companions to come along side, and the "phiskey" vent round the whole gang before we could get it back again. Iliey swallowed half a gallon of it in the course of a few hours, which did not comport with our economical mode of travelling, at all, at all ; and we were soon deprived of our In- dian's service too ; for h was drunk by 12 o'clock, and lay like a great lump of mortal pollution in the bet ; so we were glad to toss him into the Indian canoe " like a bag of oats ;" and, taking what the sailors call " spell and spell about" of the oars ourselves^ we moved on with considerable celerity. A little after dark, we reached Dickasson's tavern, on the Virginia side, where we stopped all night. ;'tVsvV?!, ; ■,. i.fc . ..rv.x.. > Here we were Uiformed that the country is but little cultivated i lA^ I ■■■■!' - ' 848 TRAVELS ON 4 ■.■«,y back from tlic river, and those who lived in it wished to be on the river side, to have the benefit of a market. Land on the river is worth from 8 to 10 dollars, partly improved; but some sells as high as 15 or 20 dollars. Horses are worth from 20 to 70 dollars • cows from lO to H dollars. Fish are plenty in the river, but tlicy do not catch many, having hogs and poultry in great plenty. There are no musquetoea, nor other troublesome insects, in this part of the country. There are a variety of medicinal herbs here, particularly snnke-root and ginseng. The Ohio freezes hqre in winter ; but there is very little snow. August 28th, at 6 o'clock, we left Mr. Dickasson's. The morn- ing was foggy ; the thermometer stood at 64* . The fog soon cleared Away, and we observed that the country had now become more level, and the river was about 100 yards broader than at Pittsburg. Having arrived at Long Reach, we had a variety of charming views, and about the middle of it we stopped to dinner, on the Virginia side, at the house of a Mr. Wells, who has a thriving plantation, and an industrious family. Every thing indicated good order in the fields, and, in the house, the women were very busy fabricating cotton cloth, with which the whole family were sub- •tantially clad. By a copy of the census, which hung up in the room, it appeared that there were not many slaves in that part of Virginia. The white population in the country amounted to 7711 ; the free blacks 52 ; slaves 422. Long Reach is 16| miles in length. The river is nearly straight the whole of the distance, and it embodies some fine islands. No> thing can exceed the variety and beauty of the views on the river here. The water is as dear and smooth as glass, and the fields, on each side, are richly clad with fine timber, which, at a distance, appears to overshadow the river, and produces a fine effect. \)n looking up or down the stream, the eye roams along the pure ex- panse of water, which appears gradually to contract in breadth, and finally to be lost in a point in the woods. As we proceeded along this delightful reac^, the afternoon be- came very sultry, and, seeing a fine peach-orchard on the Ohio aide, we pulled towards it, to get into the s)mde of the trees. The people were masking peaches, preparing to make peach-brandy, and one of them, learning that a New England man was in company, saluted us with great cordiality, and led us through the peach-or- cfaard, and such an orchard I never saw before ; the trees were TRB OHIO ntVSR. 345 figuratively groaning under their burden, and hundreds of bushels were lying on the ground. It was no sin to eat poaches here; and they were really delicious. The proprietor told us he was from Connecticut, that he had been a considerable time settled hero, and could maintain his fami- ly as well on the labour of one day ia the week, as he could in Connecticut in all the six. Those who were industrious, he said, could not f.iil to lay up a comfortable stock for old age, and for posterity. He informed us, that for the few first years the la- bour was pretty rugged and severe, as they had to cut down the woods, and prepare the lands, during which time they were con- tented with very indifferent lodgings ; but food being very easily procured, they always livetl well. He said, when he came here first, the country was literally n wilderness, and we now saw the progress it had made in 10 years. The first settlers were selling their improvements, and moving off; while men of capita! wore coming in, and making elegant improvements, and, in 10 years more, the banks of the river here would be beautiful. The Ohio side, ho said, was thriving remarkably; the Virginia side not near so well ; and he assigned the operation of slavery as the principal reason, which I believe to be correct. He mentioned that the crop of peaches never fulled on the Ohio, and the trees came to maturi- ty in three years. Fifteen bushels make 6 gallons of brandy, and they sell it at from 37 i lo 50 cents per gallon. When they keep it till old, they get a little more. The country is all healthy here, and this man's family looked fully as rosy as the young folks in Con-> necticut, and much more plump. We moved down the river 7 miles, and stopped all night on the Ohio side, with a new settler, from Maryland. The lodgings were indifferent ; but they were cheerfully given, and the landlord would make no charge. August 29th. W^e started at 6 o'clock. ITie morning was clear. The temperature was 68°. Seven miles from where we started, we stopped at the house of a Mr. Battellcs, from New England ; anJ here we observed some as fine cheeses as I ever saw any where. They were prepared for the river market, and sell for about 12 to 15 cents per lb. We were now out of Long Reach, and drawing towards an island, called the Three Brotheis, where I was preparing my mind for a wonderful scene, first noticed by an English squire of the name of Ashe, who travelled in these parts some five or six years ago, and met with marvellous advcn^ t' { I n m% ;- ^ m i> ' <"' '^w^ Hu' :^t^^' 1 i • " "^-ti li^*»^" i t .1 * a. 544 TRAVRI^ ON tures. Mr. Ashe thus describes a fall in the river : « I arrived at a, chain of islands called the Brothers, ran down the right hand channel, and, on reaching the foot of the last island^ perceived a fall in the river, and that the current wore through it in the form of a Z. The channel mis vety little broader than the boat, confinetl between rocks, the slightest touch would dash her to pieces. I ordered the man to ieep a steady stroke, not on any account to abandon the oars, or to l>e alarmed at the noise of the flood. The boat instantly took the first suction of the fall, increased in velocity to a great degree, passed through all the mazes of the channel, till she came to the last descent, when, tum- bling, tost, and regardless of her helm, she spun round and round, and at length shot ahead down the stream. Astonishing country ' Here again the hills subsided, the face of nature smiled, the cur- rent diffused, and the river became a perfect calm. On looking back to contemplate the danger I had just escaped, I could but faintly see the foaming surge, or hear the horrid clamour. / never experienced a more eventjtd moment than in the passage of that FALL 1" The reader, who has any faith in Mr. Ashe's testimony, will easily judge of my anxiety in approaching this Jail ; but what was my surprize, when I came to the foot of the last island, to find no fall at all ! The river was nearly half a mile broad, without any other interruption than that mentioned in the Pitts- burg Navigator : " Just below the third Brother is a small wil- low island, and a sand bar ; channel near the right shore." And yet this is magnified by Mr. Ashe into a most tremendous fall, to be passed only with immense difficulty and danger! What powerfid imaginations some people have I Nine miles below this we passed the mouth of Little Muskin- gum river, and four miles further we reached Marietta, at which 1 proposed to stop some days. , * . .-;„, ^ r^^' -\ 7 «*. «- /• ,,• < ■ ■ k •-<^' :i ■■- ■ > i CHAPTER LXXI. (% Marietta, — Ohio Companj/s purchase, — Marietta District. Jjd ARIETTA is very handsomely situated at the confluence of the Muskingum and Ohio rivers, of both of which it commands » fine view. That part of tli« town which lies next the Ohio is f _ . ^^^^^HK^^;]^ ' i f »« m THE OHIO DIVER. 345 devatcil above tlie bed of the river 45 feet, and yet such is the rise of the water in some seasons, that it has been twice flooded ; on which account the town has lately increased most towards the north-west, on a second bank, and n considerable number of buildings have lately been erected on the opposite side of the Mus- kingum, which is some feet higher than the lower bank on the etut side. The whole is handsomely laid out, and there is a great- er portion of public ground for walks than is to be found about most of the towns in this country. « Marietta was laid out by the Ohio Company, about 21 years Ago, and was intended as the metropolis of the New England western settlements. For a number of years it flourished in a very eminent degree, increasing in commerce, wealth, and splendour, and, though nearly 20UO miles from the ocean, ship-yards wore erected, and ship-building carried on with spirit. But, of late, its commerce and ship-building has ceased, and it is now a (Jj)}! place, though inhabittKl by a gay, lively people, mostly natives of Massachussetts. Its population is 1463. Marietta contains a number of handsome buildings on the ^Tas- sachusetts plan, which is elegant, light, and comfortable. The principal public building is a very handsome church. A bank was established in 1807, and a steam-mill was building when I was there, which may be the foundation for a new system of poli- cy, to be afterwards noticed, that may be highly advantageous to the town. There are several taverns and stores. From the circumstiuice of the town being settled by people from the commercial state of Massachusetts, the spirit of foreign com- merce seems to have long prevailed among them. They were suc- cessful in it for some time, and notwithstanding the total change of circumstances, they yet view it with a fond partiality, and have not thoroughly seen that a change of circumstances has called for a change of policy, of which no people can better avail themselves than those of Marietta. They are sober, industrious, intelligent, and discreet ; and their country abounds with materials for manu- facturing. Sheep thrive amazingly well ; cotton they can procure from Tennessee, for 14 or 15 cents per pound. Coal, iron, and limestone, they can have in any quantity, and every other mate- rial may be had on as good terms as at Pittsburg ; while, from the great quantities of fine land on the Muskingun, and the rapid lettlements on that river, 1 think provisions must continue to be even 44 '>^>^^ ' v^ A^' 546 IHAVELS ON lower than at Pitl«biir;(. Shuiild the pcopb of Marietta, there- fore, coniniciicc the mumifacturiiig svslem, I think it probable, that it uill become a flourisliin^ phico, as it certainly is n very beautiful, and a very pieusairt one ; but so long us the allow idensi of a foreign coinincrce, vcJiich is go7ii; to fetter their minds, it will hang like a uiillstone round their necks, and prevent all ini])rovc- inents. Indeed I think the new system is begun. I noticed the steam-mill ; the original design of it was to prepare Hour and Indian meal, but the proprietors propose aUo to introduce cotton and wool carding and spinning. ', Flour was four ilollars per barrel ; beef four cents per pound ; nnd other provisions weic ui)on an average, about 10 per cent, cheaper than at Pittsburg. The state of society is such as might be expected in a colony from Massachussets. With their morals and manners I was higli> ly pleased, anil their system of education, being founded on the same plan as that of the parent state, requires no illustration. The country round is very handsome : to the south-west there arc pretty high hills, and the country is rugged and barren ; there arc also some hills to the north, but of no great elevation; there is u large tract of bottom land on the banks of the river, above the town ; nnd there are some very rich bottoms on the Muskingiini, but they are of no great extent; and the hills a long way up that river are very rough, but may in process of time be converted into excellent sheep-farms. Mr. Ward, my fellow-traveller, was very attentive in showing me the place, and in introducing me to a number of the principal inhabitants. Ihis being the residence of the governor of the state, we waited on him : but he had not leisure ut that time for much conversation. Mr. Ward afterwards informed me by letter, that lie had sent me a card of invitation to spend an evening with hi« family, but I was gone before it came to hanti, nnd I regretted that 1 lost an opportunity of receiving the valuable information which would have been afforded by an evening's conversation w ith a gentleman so intelligent and so well iufbrmcd as governor Meigs. General Putnam is one of the earliest settlers here, and he has several s<;ns and relatives, well acquainted with the state uf Ohio ; from them I got a great variety of inf»)rmation. W^e went to see the Mounds ; but whether it was that my mind was raised I had rea greater in (lid not CO tlicm even istcnce to i what is to America, on the O tribes, to t oat n stron have avail* two sides \ would cons lated for pr fording free As to the termed "m the present perior inger of the bowf fabrication assons in mi what is to name all ov and there is when circur The Mns gable, with from thcnc( Muskingum great facilit known, but I saw one s( The01n*( tal, extends 140 miles, from Marie from south «iuare mile ,-C'' TUB OHIO niVER. S47 wns rniscd to loo Iiigli n pitch of expectation from the accounts I liail rciul of titcin, or that it was prc-occupicd by objects of greater importance tu hociety, I know not; but no it wa*, they (lid not come up to my expectntions at all ; I could hardly view tlicm even im curiositieii ; and I kuw no reason to refer tbeir ex- ibtcncc to u ditrerent race, or a difleront ^tate of civilization, th;m what is to be foinul am(in»s to that most necessary element — water. As to the ingenuity of these works which have been pompously termed " surprising," I really see nothing in it to lead us beyond the pjescnt race of Indians, wlm every day display a degree of su- perior ingenuity, though in a different form. The dexterous use of the bows and arrows and other instruments in the chase, the fabrication of different materials for domestic use, even the mod' assorts in my possessior), all display a degree of ingenuity equal to what is to be seen in these works. Human nature is nearly the same all over the world. Necessity is the mother of invontioD, and there is no setting bounds to the ingenuity of any class of men, when circumstances impel thciii to exert it. The Muskingum is iiOO yards broad at its outlet, and Is navi- gable, with nearly ns much ease as the Ohio, to Zancsvillc, and from thence by various craft to its head. Both the Ohio and Muskingum are navigated by keel-boats upwards, aln)Ost with as great facility as downwards, a circumstance not very generally known, but of infinite importance to this extensive inland country. I saw one solitary brig building on the banks of the Muskingum. The Ohio Company's purchase, of which Marietta is the capi- tal, extends along the Ohio river, including its windings, about 140 miles, but in a direct line it is only about 70. It extends west from Marietta 48, and north about 1 2 miles, the whole lengtli from south to north heiwr 80 miles. The area is about 1 700 Hjuare miles, contaiiung about a million of acres. / / I .'ij M 348 THAVELS ON The territory is laid out into townships of six miles square, and in each there is a reservation of 640 acres of land for a church, nn(i as much for a school ; and two townships near the centre of the purchase, on Ilockhocking river, have been reserved for a college. On this reserve Athens is now built. This tract was purchased from the United States for one dollar an acre, and the company were principally guided in their choice of their situation, by the commercial advantages which appeared to result from having the command of several fine rivers, particu- larly the Ohio and Muskingum ; without perhaps duly reflectiuff, that agriculture takes the precedence of commerce. Before there can be trade there must be something to trade in. Certain it is they fixed upon one of the worst situations in the state of Ohio, and, notwithstanding the cheapness of the purchase, most of the proprietors have found it a losing concern. There are some fine bottoms on the Ohio, and on some of the other rivers, particular- ly the Hockhocking, but by far the greater part is rough and hilly ; altliough I think it will answer remarkably well for sheep- grazing, to which, in process of time, it will probably be applied. The land stands rated in the state books nearly thus : of ] 00 parts there is one first rate ; 30 second rate ; and 69 third rate land* The population is increasing, but not nearly in an equal degree to other parts of the state. The inhabitants amount at present to about 1 2,000. The climate is very agreeable, and is quite healthy. The whole district abounds with finely variegated scenery. Marietta District, of which the United States land-ofHce is at Marietta, is situated between the Steubenville district and the Ohio Company's purchase. It extends into the interior of the country about 30 miles, and contains about 860 square miles. The Ohio washes it on the south-east about 60 miles. The sqiI here is much superior to the Ohio Company's lands : of 100 parts, one is first rate; 77 second rate; and 22 third rate. It is hand- somely watered, the principal river being the Little Muskingum, and though it is only about half as large as the company's pur- chase, it contains nearly as many inhabitants, and is more likely to increase. The price of the United States' lands is two dollars per acre. The other lands vary according to circumstances, some being as low as one dollar, and some as high as 20 dollars per acre. The average price of middling land is about two dollars. The Ohio Company's purchase is very various in price. General- TU£ OHIO RIVER.' 349 \y speaking, the individuals who hold it are willing to sell at moderate prices, and very advantageous bargains may be made by those who go there to reside. To the non-resident speculator, it holds out no inducement. . u . , some .;■■:'■ CHAPTER LXXII. Blannerhassefs Island^ — Kanhaixiay River. — Galliopolis, llURING our stay at Marietta, the water rose a little, and a number of boats came down the river. Two young gentlemen in a skiff, one of them a Mr, Murray, from New York, the other from Baltimore, arrived at the inn where we lodged ; but they only stopped a few minutes, and proceeded down the river. Five or six keel-boats, laden with goods, stopped at the same time, and we prepared to go along with them. I now parted with my agree- able friend Mr. Ward, and the Frenchman and I proceeded on our journey together. A Mr. Armstrong, whom 1 became ac- quainted with' at Pittsburg, was along with the. boats, and we found him very discreet. As we were starting from the wharf, a young man from the keel- boats told us he was disengaged, and of- fered his services to row our skiff. We engaged him, but had only proceeded a little way, when the captain of one of the keel- boats roared out to him, with a volley of oaths and imprecations, to come and take care of his father. The young man asserted he had nothing to do with them, and, to prevent any mischief I desired him to pull awaj' to Mr. Armstong's boat, where I would procure him protection till we got the matter inquired into. But we had not proceeded far when the men from the boat pursued and overtook us ; seized hold of the young man, neck and heels ; threw him into their boat, and carried him off. On reaching Mr. Armstrong, I learned that this was a bad boy, who wanted to desert his father ; and he recommended to us a young lad, named Peter, on board their boat, whom we found to answer our purpose remarkably well. At night we stopped at a tavern, six miles below Marietta, oa the Ohio side. This was a pretty situation, but I did not like the looks of our landlord ; and ihe boats* crews having stopped here, they made a terrible romptcs, drinking mctheglin, and swear* i ■ '■ i- ' i ' tj V <.l jiiiTt^i'ti "■'' 350 TRAVELS ON rt , ■i\ ,. v.or-looking object in the shape of a woman, who, " moping and melancholy," would say " we huve no way." I never saw the bad eifccts of slavery more visible than in this contrast* On the Virginia side they seemed generally to trust to the exertion* oF the negroes, and wc found them, as might Ikj expected, " miser- able and wretched, and poor, and almost naked." — On the Ohio side they trusted to the blessing of God and to their own exertions; and " God helps them that help themselves," as poor Richard says=, in his almanack. We found them increasing in wealth, popula- tion, and domestic comfort ; and we resolved hereafter to apply oil i f.yiaw*'- 35^i TRAVELS ON ^iK i W^ : :'i^ JkI' ^^^ ^^^K^^r^^" V* ^^^^'):L '," ^^^H^K try I -■ > '( \ ^^HK{M 'j « ^H^'l^' I ^^Hei ''' \ ^ni\'i ■||i !,. s ^^El 'Vk m"^' ^ ' ■r^Wi' ' ^^p. ' 'if 1 f 1 fB;|i|l^^ <- <^B^ l(,^^B aK. X i'wt lP»& ^ r 'il'RaV V JUhKI r.^ 1; p?'i the right bank only for accommodation, where the reader will hence* forth find us, unless it is otherwise expressed. Our general rule was to look out for a settlement at sun-set, and stop at the first we came to thereafter : and it was hardly ever necessary to make a second call. As soon as we had engaged lodgings we ordered sup- per, and along with it two chickens to be cooked for next day's fare. The boatman got supper along with us, and then returned to the skiff, where he slept all night. The Frenchman, who I before no- ticed, was a humoursome character, went to bed immediately after supper, and often scolded me for not following his example ; but having to write my notes, it was generally 11 or 12 o'clock before I could retire to rest. I always found the people with whom we stopped very obliging, and ready to answer all my inquiries ; so that it gave me real pleasure to travel on this delightful river, and to converse with the friendly settlers on its banks. Our travelling too was very cheap, for the whole did not amount to more than a dollar a day, boatman's hire included. In the morning, when we started, we carried our broiled chickens, with some bread, cheese, and milk, in the skiff; on which we made very comfortable repasts, without stopping. Having passed a remarkable, cavern in a rock called the Devil's hole, ard Shade river, we reached a pretty strong current called a ripple, on which we found a floating-mill at work. Buffentin's Is- land lay on the opposite side, and after passing it we came up with an Irishman and his wife, travelling by a skiff for Kentucky. They had stopped for breakfast. The woman had kindled a fire on the b«ach to cook some eggs, and the man had gone up to a settlement, to ffet some milk. Our Frenchman went on the same errand : but soon returned with the empty pitcher in his hand, saying that the wife would not sell him any, and he was as well pleased, for she was a dirty looking hussy. At this time the keel-boats joined us, and one of the boatmen said that the house was Buffentin's, and they were the most indiscreet dirty people in all the country. " Well," said our Frenchman, " we have always been well treat hitherto, and though we have got a little rub from the dirty BufFentins, we must just put up with it." On hearing this the woman made her appear- ance from behind the trees, where she had been listening, who, put- ting her hands to her sidv.s, exclaimed : " And what have you got to say to the Buffcntins ?" '^ Why, madam," replied the Frenchman, "all that I have got to say is that they are a parcel of dirty hogs. V'' • '■ THE OHIO KIVBR. 353 aiid benteth our notice." It is impossible to describe the rage that appeared in the woman's countenance on this occasion ; and I be- lieve if the Frenchman had been within the reach of her talons, she would have " ^ypedi tke skin d' liis chaeks owt oWru hi« chin ;" but we were in our boat in the river, and the Frenchman lay on his oars, and enjoyed her half-frantic gestures, while she unprofitably ipent her rage among the trees. • . . ; There appears to be certain periods when mankind take a per<* verse pleasure in tormenting each other. The poor woman's pas- sions were fired at the circumstance of being called dirty; a plain proof that it was not altogether congenial to her disposition : yet oiir Frenchman, so far from feeling any compunction, tormented her with a string of allusions, all of which had a tendency to wind her passions to the highest pitch ; but he could do it with impunity* We were at a respectful distance, moving slowly down the river ; there was no danger of broken bones : but the Billingsgate continu. ed while we were within hearing, to the great amusement of the crews of the adjoining boats. A short while after leaving our enraged fair one, we were threaten- ed with a shower of rain, and we took shelter in a small log cabin, where the landlord told us he was a native of Ireland, and had come out to fight for America during the war. He was an excellent mu- sician, and amused us with some tunes on the violin. The after- noon cleared up, we got under weigh, and made very good pro- gress to Letart's falls, which we passed before dark, and stopped at a house on the right bank, immediately below them. Here I goi a great variety of information regarding this part of thecountry^ It is only about 13 years since it began to be settled, uid it has made rapid progress. The climate is healthy, and the winters mild. Improved land on the river sells for eight dollars^ and unimproved for four dollars per acre. Letart's falls are only n swid current, which the keel boats ascend upwards. In the course of the day we passed several families moving down the river to Ken« tucky ; we also passed a floating store. September 4th, we left Letart's falls at half past 6 o'clock ; the morning was cloudy, the thermometer was 69°, in the water it was 75°. The wind was blowing up the river with a very strong cra> r*nt, and, being obliged to coast along the bank, we made but small 4« III n ¥ .ir'-r^» 354 TRAVKLS ON ■.i: •ST'. progress. We mct'scvcriil vessels loaded with salt, bound up the river, and judging from the state of the winds since we left Pitts- burg, I was satisfied we could have sailed up to Pittsburg in little more than half the time we took to come down. The keel boats sail up at the rate of about 20 miles a day. The scenery continues near- ly similar to that already described, to the Grtat Kanhaway, which we reached at sun-#et. The Kanhaway is a large river in Virgin}*, on which there is now a great trade in salt. It appears at its outlet to be nearly as large as the Ohio. At this place there is a little town on the Virginia side, on a high bank, called Point Pleasant, where we left Mr. Murray and his friend, and passed on to Gallio- polis ; at which town I was anxious to stop all night, to make observations. It was dark before we arrived, so that we had some diflkaltj in fixing our boat, and getting properly accommodated with lodg- ings ; and our Frenchman having wished to stop at Point Plea- sant, I was a good deal troubled with his ill •humour. September 5th. This morning we took a walk round the town, and I was pleased to find it in a thriving state. A number of buildings had been lately erected, most of them of brick, and a handsome brick academy was building. A number of little pondi at the back of the town were drained, and tire fields around had been recently piit into a state of active cultivation. The town was stocked witli orchards, and the fruit was excellent. We were in- troduced to several of the early French settlers, who gave a differ- ent history of the place from what I had seen before in books, and the substance of their information I have engrossed in the follow- ing account. • Galliopolis is the capital of Gallia county, and is beautifully situated, on a second bank of the Ohio. It is laid out on a good plan : there is a square of eight acres in the centre, and the build- ing ground is divided into squares of five acres each, by streets of 66 feet wide, crossing each other at right angles. The building lots are 85 feet in front, by 1 70 deep, and contain one third of an acre. They sell, at present, for from 25 dollars to 200 dollars each. The number of houses is about 70, and the inhabitants 300. The public buildings are a court-house, and the academy ; which last is to contain a room for a church, one for a military academy, and one for a masonic hall. . m ■- ■, > : Except domestic manufactures, there are none in the town; though thi which wou for machin steara-milli here. Tlu iiniths, t'.vi fix or sever lars per cw per bushel, 6\ cents ea( This plac chased the 1 settling here (lians, wbic colony. Til (juiet possess in a dispute that can bef« cond time ai United State their losses, ces were the (juence of v/i Galliopoli it is quite he£ iupposed tha can take an a mistake. Ai best chance, wants. Wit from what I would have their own cou ,-^-fi^vM- '-^iS-t*, ■''**^ ■ <» * - '»-• ' ^ --v. I I THR OHIO niVER. 355 though there avc several in tl:? country, and some are projected which would probably succeed very well. There arc no water falls for machinery on the Ohio, but; they have coal in abundance, and 9team*mills are likely tc become very general. One is projected here. Tlie different professions arc, one tavern-keeper, two black- unithfl, two tanners, three storekeepers, three master masons, and «ix or seven carpenters. Provisions are reasonable : flour two dol- lars per cwt., beet three dollars, pork three dollars, corn 33 cents per bushel, butter Ci cents per lb. eggs 6\ cents per dozen, fowls 6^ cents each. This place was originally settled by a French colony, who pur- chased the lands in France for five dollars per acre; but soon after stttling here they were unfortunately engaged in a war witli the In- dians, which contributed very much to disturb and dispirit the colony. This, however, they would have overcome, had they got quiet possession of their lands afterwards; but they were involved in a dispute about the land titles, one of the most serious evils that can bef«tl nc v settlers ; many of them bought their lands a se- cond time and remained ; some went to French Grant, wljere the United States gave them a quanlily of land to indemnify them for their losses, and 6f>me moved riway altogether. These circumstan- ces were the caase of the dismeml>ennent of the colony, in conse- quence of v/hich th^y did no good here, nor any where else. Galliopolis ^^as been reputed a sickly place, but this is a mistake ; it is quite healthy, and i;; is a beautiful situation. It has been also supposed that no body should go to a i.ew country, except they can take an a^^e in their hand, and cut down trees. This is also a mistake. An association of farmers, mechanics, &c., have the best chance, because their combined labours are equal to all their wants. Witness the Harmonist Society ; and I have no doubt, from what I learned regarding the French colony, that it ajso would have done very well, had they not been imposed upon 'm their own country as to the land. 4 ( , 'j\ ^c \ \\ 1 < h ff n '•'-,V'»' ;..4ij.;*sgm-,: 356 TKAVCIS OK CHAPTER LXXir.' Z«av£ Galliqpolis, — Portsmouth^ — Limestonff^Cincinnati, While we were making our inquiries at Galliopolis, Mr. Murray and his friend came up with us, but stopping only a few minutes, they passed on before we were rcndy ; I had a great deal of trouble to keep my fretful Frenchman in good humour. " What you always inquire, inquire," says he, " at every body, and about every .thing? don't you see there's water, and there's trees, and there's houses, and there's fields? and just say to the people:— the western country is the first ip the world — the rivers are beauti* ful, and the trees are magnificent, and the climate is delightful ; and as to the soil, you can take a handful, and squeeze a gill of oil out of it," " Be quiet, now," says I, ** and just take things easy. You Frenchmen arc always for applying a magnifying glass to ob- jects, but I wish simply to state things as they are." We left Galliopolis at half-past 1 1 ; the day was clear and beau* tiful ; the thermometer stood at 78". We were now favoured with a little breeze which helped us along, and having made 22 miles, we stopped at the house of a Mr. Riggs, near the extremity of tlie Ohio company's purchase. We found this a very comfortable set- tlement) on a second bank of the Ohio, and Mr. Riggs had a, large and industrious family. He told us that he sat down here about 12 years ago, and had not yet made a purchase of his lands, but expected to buy them soon, and would be willing to give 8 dollars an acre for them. Here we saw the women busy spinning and weaving cotton ; and were informed that they raised it on their own plantation, which is in latitude 3S° 40V They raise also sweet potatoes and ground-nuts. We were informed th^t the weather had been cool and pleasant here all sumpier, and that they seldor experienced the extremes of heat or cold. Mr. Riggs gave us an account of the settlement of that part of the country. The first cleavers, or squatterSf as they are called, look out a situation where they can find it, and clear and cultivate apiece of land. A second class come after them, who have got a little money, and they buy up the improvements of the first settlers, and add to them, but with- out buying the land, A third and last class generally com^ for per- manent settlement, and buy both land and improvements. When A \ THB OHIO RIVBR. 3bT i\m last class have made a settlement, the country rapidly improvek, and assumes the app^rance of extended cultivation. It is presumii ed the M^hole banks of the Ohio, as far as we have travelled, will have that appearance within 10 years. While we were here, n stranger arrived from Kentucky, who fHao got lodgings, and, when Mr. Riggs* family were all collected, we had, if not a brilliant, at least a very numerous company.— Tliere were seven or eight sons, and three or four dau/^hters : how they were all accommodated with beds I do not know, but we got a very good one on the lower floor, the old man and old woman be- ing upon the one hand, and two or three of the daughters on the other. The bcd-dothes were made wholly of cotton, and we were very comfortable. Sept. 6. — We started at 6 ; the morning was foggy, the thermo« meter 53°, Twelve miles from Mr. Riggs' we stopped at a small tavern, where we found the landlord a great politician, and very com- municative. He said he was a true democratic republican, though he lived within half a mile of Federal creek. Below this place the country becomes level, and so continues to Sandy creek, the boundary of thestateof Kentucky, which wereached in the afternoon, andhav* ing long desired to sec that celebrated state, I immediately went on shore to shake hands with the soil. I could not, in terms of our Frenchman's notion, << squeeze a gill of oil out of it," but I found it of an excellent quality, and supplied with large timber, princi- pally beech and 8ugar«maple. The country beyond this assumes a hilly aspect, but the banks are remarkably fertile* We made an attempt to procure lodgings in Kentucky, but, as in Virginia, with- out effect Wq found in the house where we applied nothing but filth and wretchedne^ and, passing over to the Ohio side, we got most comfortable lodgings with a new-married couple, who had very laudably provided a bed for strangers, besides their own. They would take nothing for our accommodation, the second in- stance of the kind we had met with on the Ohio.- ' ■ ^ t h*).-t September 7th. We started at half-past 5. The morning wa» foggy i the thermometer 55°. The scenery on the river wa^ now very fine. At 9 o'clock we were up with a remarkable rock, called Hanging rock, and we stopped at a plantation in Kentucky, on a beautiful bend of the river, where we got some milk and but- ter from a Maryland family^ They were industrious, and highly pleased with their new iituation.. The ](and, they informed: uf^ *4» f W- -I • ( jl-" 359 TBAVEL8 ON k ■i t m ■i wl'' hIv B «£ 11 El ^: A-;, j cost S dollars 50 cents per acre, and they could dispose of every article of produce on the river as follows : corn 25 cents per bushel, wheat SO, potatoes 40, meal 40, flour 2 dollars. One dn/b lalwur in the Week Mras sufllcient to support the family, and they did not depend on negro labour. The country below this was very vari- ous as we passed, but the soil generally good. The river was about 700 yards wide, and so transparent, that we could see the lK)ttoin distinctly at 8 feet deep, and a variety of fishes playing upon it. The river keeps generally a south-west course, till it passes the latitude of 38* 30', and at Sandy river makes a bend to the north- west. We were now sailing in that direction, and passed Little Sandy river, and French Grant ; and at Little Scioto, the river bends to the south-west, where we look a fair wind, which carried ns very swiftly to the the Big Scioto, on which is Portsmouth and Alexandria. As the latter is an old settlement, we meant to have stopped at it all night ; but, on making inquiry for a tavern, we found there was none, and that the town was going to decay. It appears it is liable to l)c flooded, although it is on a bank 60 feet high ; but Portsmouth, on the east bank of the Scioto, is not sub- ject to that inconvenience, and is progressing very fast. Being at the outlet of the Scioto, one of the finest rivers in the state of Ohio, I presume it will become a place of very considerable impor- tance. We were told that the banks of the Scioto were very rich, though a little unhealthy ; but, as the country was clearing up, the sickness was diminishing every year. > We continued our course down the river, and inquired forlodgi ings ; but we could not be accommodated where we first applied ; and this was the first instance of the kind that had occurred in the state of Ohio : a proof of the comfortable circumstances and hos- pitality of the settlers. We applied at the next house, half a mile be- low } and here we were accommodated, but very poorly. The fanii- ly were recently from Virginia, and they had to part with their own bed to us. The soil is very ric;h here ; and we were told, that the produce of 12 acres would with ease support a numerous family. Land is 5 dollars per acre, and workmen have 2 bushels of corn, and their maintenance, for a day's work. •> September 8th. We rose at half past 5. The morning was clear ; the thermometer 60°. But before setting out, a difficulty occurred : we had nothing less than a five dollar piece, and the &mily could not change it. I was obliged, therefore, to walk hal^, ^^ THE OHIO niVER. 959 a mile tip tlic banks of the river to prgcure it, at the house where we applied for loclgings last evening. I'he landlord was an Irish- man, and expressed greot regret that ho was not at home wlien weapplietl, ns he would have wished to have talked about tlie old country. He accommodated me with change, and expressed a desire to detain me some little time ; but, the wind being fair, I was luth to lose a minute, and I set out for the boat with all possible dispatch. In my way, I passed through a fine bottom, stocked with trees of extraorilinary size and beauty. They were mostly chosnut, quite straight and smooth in the trunk, and several of them, which I measural, were 18 feet in circumference. On my arrival at the boat, I found the Frenchman " gna'wwg his nails" with anxiety ; but we set sail with a fair wind, and soon made up our lee-way. We again passed our friend Mr. Murray, and the wind continuing to favour us, we made rapid progress. We passed Salt-Lick creek, near which we saw a number of beautiful conical hills, and, after sailing nearly 40 miles through very variegated scenery, we reached Manchester before dark, where we stopped all night. Manchester is a small place, con- sisting of 12 or 14> houses only, and is not thriving. September 9. We set sail at 6 o'clock. The morning was fine^ and, having a fair wind we had a rapid run of 12 miles to Lime- stone, which we readied at 8 o'clock. This is one of the shipping ports of Lexington, ftnd is quite a bustling place ; but we only stopped at it while we took breakfast, when we immediately set sail, and at 2 o'clock reached Augusta, a very handsome little town in Kentucky, 21 miles below Limestone. It is thriving re- markably well, ' V • 5 r .'"'! We left Augusta at 3 o'clock, and, 3 miles below it, parted with our boatman, and continued our course in expectation of reaching the plantation of a Mr. Kenned} , a Scotsman, to whom I had a letter of introduction ; but the wind failed us, and we were obliged to stop 6 miles short of it, at the house of a Mr. Taylor. I was much pleased with the appearance of this part of the coun- try, and Mr. Taylor being a shrewd, intelligent man, I received a ^reat deal of information from him. This situation is in the Vir- ginia military lands, and the country is very agreeable. The price of land is generally 2 dollars per acre. Tlie principal timber is walnut, blue ash, beech, and sugar-tree. Cleared lands sell from '? to 10 dollars, according tq the quality. Flour is 2 dollars per } 11 :^i m I" II ,r ,U f.' f ( ", ^ '•'fi 360 TRAVELS ON owt; wheat 50 ooitt p«r buihel; horMs from 50 to 60 dollars; cows 10 dollars. Mr Taylor moved from Washington county, Pennylvania, and considern this soil and climate as much liettcr than that he had left. The first frost appears about the middle of Oc- tober, but it is slight ; and winter docs not set in until Chriatmas. They hate a good deal of rnin in winter, but snow does not lie long. September 10th. I rose very early this morning, when I saw the comet for the first time. The morning was clear, and the thermometer stood at 50°. The wind was north-east North-east winds seem to have the same effect here that north-west winds have on the other side of the mountains. They render the air clear, dry, and elastic. . ' At 6 o'clock we got uiuikr weigh, and at a little past 7 reached the plantation of Mr. Kennedy, on the Kentucky side. His house was a little way back from the river, and I went up to present my letter, when he received mc with great cordiality. I told him the humour df my travelling companion, and he came down to the beach, to invite him to breakfast. While we were on the beach, Mr. Murray and his companion arrived, and Mr. Kennedy gave them an invitation also ; so we moved to the house in a body. I would wrong Mr. Kennedy to say, barely, he was kind ; he was hospitable in the highest degree. He got jin excellent breakfast prepared, and, in the interim, treated us y,i$h whiskey and honey, well known in Scotland by the name of Athol-brose, in honour of which the celebratedNiel Gow composed an elegant strathspey, and gave it that-name. Before we had finished our breakfast, Mr. Kennedy drew a fid- dle from a box, and struck up the tunc of Rothemurche'a Rant. He played in the true Highland style, and I could not stop to finish my breakfast, but started up and danced Shantrews. The crfd man was delighted, and favoured us with a great many Scot- tish airs. When he laid down the fiddle, I took it up, and com- menced in my turn, playing some new strathspei/s that he had not heard befiire; but he knew the spirit of them full well, and he also gave US Shantrews " louping^near bawk height," albeit he was well stricken in years. He next played a number of airs, all Scottish, on a whistle; and then pulled out some MS. poetry, and read several pieces, which were highly humorous. He was particularly sevore upon f >' TBI OHIO RIVU. 36 i the methodists, whose frantic gestures he imitated, crying out, *'glor^t g^Kf/t' <^Qd stamping his feet, as he recited a piece of satire upon their conduct. But this was too rich a feast to last : wc were obliged to depart ; but I made a promise to pay him ano- tlicr visit, if I could, before I left the country. The wind was unsteady, and sometimes ahead ; but we made considerable progress. The river, and scenery on its banks, con- tinue very beautiful, and the country here is all healthy. Twenty miles below Mr. Kennedy's, we passed the little Miami river, a fine romantic stream, abounding with falls and mill-seats, and eight miles below it we reached Cincinnati, at dark, where wt found excellent accommodations at the Columbian tavern. CHAPTER LXXIV. Cincinnati, — Si/mm^s purchase, — Cincinnati district, — Neaoport* Cincinnati is elegantly situated on a first and second bank on the north side of the Ohio river, along which it extends nearly half a mile, and as far back in the country. The scite of the town is elevated from 70 to 120 feet above low water mark, and is never overflowed. The land and water around it exhibit a very hand- some appearance. The Ohio is here three quarters of a mile wide ; and Licking river, a considerable stream in Kentucky^ falls into it right opposite. The streets of Cincinnati are broad, crossing one another at right angles ; and the greater part of the houses being of brick, it has a very handsome appearance. The streets, how- ever, are not yet paved, except the side walks, on which account they are unpleasant in muddy weather ; byt that is an evil which will soon be remedied. Cincinnati was laid out about 21 years ago, since which it has made rapid progress, ond now contains about 400 houses, and 2283 inhabitants. The public buildings are, a court- house, jflU, bank, three market-houses, and some places for pub* lie worship, two cotton factories, and some considerable breweries and distilleries. The taverns are not numerous, but there are up- wards of 30 dry-goods stores, in which from 200,000 to 250,000 dollars worth of imported goods are disposed pf annually'. This is, next to Pittsburg, the greatest place for manufactures and mechanical operations on the river, and th« prdfefcsions exer- A If I-' iU :i %:■ 362 TKAVELS ON ciscd are nearly as numerous as at Pittsburg. There are masons and stone-cutters, brick-makers, caipenters, cabinet-makers, coop- ers, turners, machine-makers, whccl-wrights, smiths and nailors* coi)persniiths, tin-smiths, silver-smiths, gun-smiths, clock and watch-makers, tanners, saddlers, boot and shoe-makers, glovers and brecches-niakers, butchers, bakers, brewers, distillers, cotton- spinners, weavers, dyers, taylors, printers, bookbinders, rope-makers, tobacconist?, soap-boilers, candle-makers, comb-makers, painters, pot and pearl ash-makers. Tiicse branches arc mostly all increasing, and afford good wa- ges to the journeymen. Carpenters and cabinet-makers have one dollar per day and their board ; masons have two dollars per 1000 for laying bricks and their board ; when they board themselves they have about four dollars per 1000. Other classes have from one to one dollar twenty-five cents per day, according to the na- ture of the work. . Wool and cotton carding and spinning can be increased to a great extent; and a well organized manufactory of glass bottles would succeed. Porter brewing could be augmented, but it would first be nccesi-ary to have bottles, as the people here prefer mah liquor in the bcittled folate. . A manufactory of wool-hats would pro- bably succeed, and that of stockings would do remarkably well, provided frame smith-work were established along with it — not else As the people are becoming wealthy and polished in their manners, iprobably a manufactory of. piano-fortes would do upon a small scale. There are ample materials for mianufactures. Cotton is brought from Cumberland river, for from two to three cents. Wool is be- coming plenty in the country, and nov sells at 50 cents per pound ; all the materials for glass-making are abundant; coal has not been found in the innnediate neighbourhood, but can be laid down here at a pi'etty reasonable rate ; and it is probable the enterprising citi- zens will soon introduce the steam-engine in manufactures. Wood is brought to the town at a very low rate. There is a very consider- able trade between New Orleans and this place, and several barges v/cre in the river when we visited it. One had recently sailed up- wards over the falls. The expense of living isiower than at Pittsburg. House ^cnt for a mechanic is about GO dollars, but the most of them soon get houses of their own. V/ood is 1 dollar per cord ; coals 8 to 12 r :'.< ^*^ THE OHIO RIVER, 363 cents per bushel ; flour 2 dollars per cwt. ; corn-meal 33 cents per bushel ; potatoes 25 ; vegetables are very plenty and cheap ; beef, mutton, and veal 4 to 5 cents per lb, ; pork 2^ ; venison 25 cents per ham ; fowls, one dollar per dozen ; ducks, 25 cents per pair ; geese 37^ to 50; turkies the same; wild turkies 12i to 25 cents; fish very cheap; cheese 12^ per lb. ; butter, 12 to 20 ; eggs 6 to 10 per dozen; beer 5 dollars per baiTcl; cyder 3 dollars; whiskey 37^ to 40 cents per gallon ; peach brandy 50 ; salt 1 dollar per bushel. This place, like Marietta, is mostly settled by New Englanders ; and the state of society is very extoUont. Education is well attend- ed to, and tlic people are very correct in their morals. There are three newspapers printed here, and they get papers from every state in the union. Symmes's purchase, on which Cincinnati is situated, is one of the most judicious that has ever been made in the state of Ohio. It lies between the two Miami rivers, about 20 miles in breadth . and extends from the Ohio into the interior of the country, about 30 miles. It contains one of the best bodies of land in the whole state, and is now nearly settled up. Land is consequently pretty high, and may be rated at 5 dollars per acre, uncleared. In this purchase, like that by the Ohio company, there is a reserve for a school, and another for a church; but I was informed, that in con- sequence of the variety of religious opinions in the district, the latter has been productive only of discord. The effect of fhp school section will be noticed hereafter. The Cincinnati District is situated to the westward of Sym- mes's purchase, and the United States land-office is in Cincinnati. This district is partly in the Indiana territory, but mostly in tho state of Ohio, and contains a body of moat excellent land. It is bounded on the west by a line drawn from opposite the mouth of Kentucky river, to where the Indian north bourdury line intersects the western line of the state of Ohio, and contains about 3000 square miles. These two districts constitute what is called the Miami Conntru, which, in point of soil, climate, and natural advantages, is pro- bably inferior to none in the United States, anti few are equal to it. The soil of this district is reckoned, upon the whole, as the best in the state of Ohio. It is rated, in the state books, in this way : in 100 parts, G arc first rate, 70 second rate, aud 21 third rate land. i j hi ■t- i. t ■^iJ. ,**«, «.,___^,.;.^ ^ ^-J.**' -^^^^:ai.«! .*• 364 TRAVELS ON The face of the country is agreeably uneven, but not mountainous ; and the country has a plentiful supply of the most useful minerals, particularly iron. There are also several mineral springs. The two principal rivers are the two Miamis, but it is remarkably well w^atered with small streams. The large Miami is an elegant river, 200 yards wide at its mouth, but, 75 miles in the interior of the country, it contracts to the breadth of 30 yards. It is naviga- ble, however, for canoes, 50 miles above this, in all 125 miles. — The whole length of the rivier in a straight line is about 130 miles, but including its turnings it is nearly double that distance. One of its branches interlocks with the Scioto, and from another there is a portage, of only nine miles, to a branch of the Miami of the lakes. The whole of this country has been settled up in little more than 20 years, and it will afford an idea of the value of the country to state that the inhabitants, of course mostly all emigrants, now a- mount to nearly 40,000. Hamilton county, a small district, con- sisting of little more than 300 square miles, contains upwards of 15,000, being more than 50 to the square mile. I was introduced to judge Symmes, and the different gentlemen in the land-office, to whom, and Mr. Kilgour, a Scotsman, I was mostly indebted for my information here. Having finished my inquiries at Cincinnati, I crossed the river to wait upon colonel Taylor, at Newport, to whom I had a letter of introduction. Newport is a small place, and is quite eclipsed by the splendour of Cincinnati, There is a good brick building on the banks of Licking Creek, in which is deposited a magazine of arms, ammu- nition, Stc. ; so that Newport is a sort of military station, but it is rather unliealthy on the creek, and I think it would have been wise to liave placed it on the Cincinnati side. I found colonel Taylor a very communicative, sensible man, and remarkably well ac(]iiainted in this part of the country, where he is ail old settler. He has an elegant farm, and a vineyard of grapes, the finest that I have yet seen in America. Grapes flourish luxu- riantly here, a circumstance that proves to a demonstration, that wine could be made in this part of the country. Here I v.'as introduced to captain Baen. of colonel Boyd's regi- ment. He had just arrived from Boston, and was waiting for a passage down the river to join the army ; and I agreed to speak to iny humoursomc French captain to take him in our boat, at which lie expressed his satisfaction. r -^M ""^^•"^=^1 THE OHIO RIVIR, 365 ntainous ; minerals, n markably elegant nterior of is naviga- miles. — 30 miles, ce. One er tliere is tlie lakes, wore than ountry to s, now a- rict, con- >wards of entlemen an, I was ished my >n colonel ion. plendour banks of , aiiimu- but it is ►een wise nan, and ^here he f grapes, ih luxu- on, that I's regi- 5 for a peak to t which The greater part of the information I received from Mr. Taylor, regarding the country, is anticipated in the preceding remarks, but there were various other topics of conversation, some of which I may just glance at. On the Indian war, I was informed that the opinion was general, there would be no fighting, or, if any, it would be of short duration ; and they did not apprehend the small- est danger from it in this part of the country. Ou Burr's conspi- racy, with which colonel Taylor seems to have been well -acquaint- ed, he bore testimony to the integrity and laudable conduct of Ge- neral Wilkinson, in suppressing one of the vilest treasons that ever was exhibited in the country. CHAPTER LXXV. Jjcave Cincinnati, — Miami river, — Kentucky river, — Smss settlement, Ijouisville. Our Frenchman, with a shrug of his shoulders and some little reluctance, having agreed to accommodate captain Baen, we en- gaged a man to row for us, and after laying in some provision?, part of which was a ham, which we stowed in the wolf-box, we started from Cincinnati on the 13th of September, at 4 o'clock ia the afternoon. The wind was blowing very strong up the river, so that we inade only nine miles, when we lodged at a little dirty ta- vern, having the worst accommodations we had yet seen in the state of Ohio. The banks of the river were well settled and cultivated to this place. September Hth. — Being very glad to got away fi*om this wretch- ed tavern, we started at day-light. On examining our boat, we found our ham had been, as betbrc, abstracted from the box ; but a wolf was not the thief this time ; it was a cow, and the name of the box was changed accordingly. At 8 o'clock we passed the North Bend, a remarkable turn in the river, and immediately after, wc stopped to breakfast at the Jiouse of a captain Kirtley, in Ken- tucky. He lias a pretty plantation, and we got an excellent break- fast. We were informed that captain Brown, a gentleman from New Jersey, lived half a mile below, who had a fine orchard, and us he was very sociable and attentive to strangers, it would bt worth our while to call on him. The Frenchman and I started ii I • ■Ste^- I f « M -I i I >M 366 • TIIAVELS ON in the boat, and captain Baen walked along the bank. Ilavintr waited a wliilc at Mr. Brown's, he called to us when we were oj)- posite the plantation ; but we had already lost a great deal of time, and were inclined to go on. But he informed us that there was a great curiosily to be seen, so we jumped ashore. The curiosity was a Mammoth's haunch bono, which had been dug up in the fields a few days before. Captain Brown had it measured and weighed. It was indeed a very wonderful bone, being three feet in diameter, and weighnig 55 pounds : the socket was eight inches in diameter*. What a stupendous animal it nmst have once formed a part of! If we were gratified by the sight of this bone, we were still more so by the view of JVlr. Brown's orchards, where we found fruit that might have been with propriety termed mammoth apples. There was a larger quantity of (ine fruit here, than in any orchard 1 had ever seen. Many of the limbs of the trees were literally broken down vkith tlie weight, and one or two whole trees were nearly broken to pieces by it. Some of the apples measured 171 inches in circumference, and Mr. Brown boasted, I think with reason, that he could outmatch the whole United States with this fruit. It was noticed before that he is a native of Jerscv, and he informed ml ' US that he bore a commission in the American war; he had been fifteen or sixteen yc.irs settled in this country, and had only one child, a daughter, who was married to colonel Pike, the celebra- ted traveller in Louisiana. The wind continued to blow so strong up the river, that we could not row against it, and captain Brown insisted that we should stop to dinner, which we agreed to, and we were treated with great hospitality. In the afternoon the wind lulled a little, arid wishing success to our hospitajjle entertainer, we took our "» leave. %^.^ A few miles below captain Brown's we passed the mouth of the ,' Great Miami, which has already been noticed, and which, at its confluence with the Ohio, has a handsome appearance. The wes- tern boundary line of the state of Ohio is projected due north from the mouth of this river, so that we were now between Ken- - tucky and the Indiana territory. We reached the house of a cap- tain Talbot, where we stopped for the night. September 15. On getting up this morning we found it pretty cold — the thermometer liad fallen to 46". The stream continued beautiful, but the banks were now rather low, and the inhabi- .:.7^"' !«?^,^Tn>" THK OHIO RIVER. " 3')7 tants appeared to be mostly all new settlers, Hnil in very poor cir- circunistanccs. 'I'he settlements were very thin, but the lanii a|)- pcared to be good, and the timber very luxuriant. The whole bed of the river here is limestone. The wind continued to blow up die stream so strong, that we could have sailed eight miles up- wards in the time we took to row one downwards. Indeed, in the middle of the day, it was so strong that we could not make head against it at all, and we were obliged to put ashore at Big-bone- lick creek. Big-bonc-lick, so called from the vast numbers of large bones which have been Ibund near it, is the property of Mr. Colquhoun, to whom I had a letter of introduction, but I learned that he was at Lexington, and it was of no consequence to go to the lick, as all the bones which had been found had been carried away. In consequence of this information, I h:ul recourse to my travelling companion, the Pittsburg Navigator, from which I transcribe the following account ; " Animals' bones of enormous size have been ibund here in creat numbers. Some skeletons nearly complete were not long since (lug up, 1 1 feet uniler the surface, in a still' blue clay. These ap- jjcared to be the bones of different species of animals, bat all re- markably large. Some were supposed to be those of the mammoth, others of a, non-descript. Among these bones, were two horns or fenders, each weighing 150 pounds, 16 feet long, and 18 inches in circumference at the big end ; and grinders of the carnivorous kind, weighing from three to ten and a half pounds each ; and others of the granivorous species, equally large, but quite tliffer- ently shaped, being flat and ridged. Ribs, joints of the backbone, and of the foot or paw, thigh and hip bones, upper jaw bone, &c. &c. were also found, amounting. in the whole to about five tons weight " These bones were principally discovered by Dr. Goforth and Mr. Ileeder of Cincinnati, who sent them by water to Pittsburg,- with an intention to transport them to Philadelphia, and make sale of them to Mr. Peale, proprietor of the museum of that city. —They were, however, while in Pittsburg, discovered by an Irish gentleman, a traveller, who purchased them, reshipped them down the Ohio, and thence to Europe. " As to the history of the mamm.oth, we are much in the dark. Of animals having uiice existed carrying these enormous bone«, there can be no doubt, i'heir present existence is much doubted,; J I V 368 TRAVELS ON and the only proof wc have to the contrary, is a curious tradition of the Indians, handed down to them by their fathers, which hehw delivered by a principal chief of the Delaware tribe to the gover- nor of Virginia during the American revolution, is recorded in the following words : — ' That in ancient times a herd of these tremen- dous animals came to the Big-bone licks, and began a universal destruction of the bear, deer, elks, buffaloes, and other animals which had been created for the use of the Indians : that the Great Man above, looking down and seeing this, was so enraged, that he seized his lightning, descended on the earth, and seated himself on a neighbouring mountain, on a rock, on which his sent and the print of his feet are still to be seen, and hurled his bolts among them till the whole were slaughtered, except the big bull, who, presenting his forehead to the shafts, shook them oft' as they fell ; but missing one at length, it wounded him in the side ; whereon, springing round, he bounded over the Ohio, over the "Wabash, tiie Illinois, and finally over the great lakes, where he is Uvlng at this day.' — Jefferson's Notes on Virginia. " There are places at the Big-bone lick, where the salt water bubbles up through the earth, that are rendered a perfect quiig- mire, admitting nothing heavier walking over them than geese or other light web-footed fowl. Cattle dare not venture nearer than to their edges. One of these places appears bottomless, for no soundings have ever been found : throw in a ten feet rail end-ways, audit buries itself without any other force than its own weight j another embraces near a quarter of an acre, over which growsi a very fine and short grass. May it not be reasonable to account for so many of the mammoth's bones being deposited at this place, by presuming, that in their seeking the saltwater, and venturing a little too far, or otherwise that their own enormous weight pusliing them forward too far for recovery, and sinking, thus were buried one after another to the number we now find their remains. The places where their bones are now found are tolerably hard, iVoni filling up by the washings of the small stream which runs through them, and from having been much dug up, and the mud exposed to the sun."* * It may be noticed hero, that an entirk skeleton of this wonderful animal i» to be seen in Pijalk's Museum, Puii.ADEt.rHiA, where I found the following account. "It was accldentuUy discovered in Ulster county, New York, on a furni belonging to John Maaten, ai he was di3;^iiig marlo from a morass; many of tjie boaei> wei« About we set sai expedicQt set we esp wc had to After wall found it oi not get lo river, dist this intellii down with were leavii turned asu mistook 01 into the w woods beci these circu having lost thicket; ai together o\ for some tii ceeded far that we she probability out of our agreed that towai'ds th should ther solution W9 spair of fir river." T then taken up, tbe continual i " In the yet *lie right of d ftnicted machi bout six weeks •0 put together the cranium," Mr. Peale a •*"ch hii son, THE OHIO RIVER. o*69 About fou: o'clock in the afternoon the breeze moderated, and we set sail. The settlements were now so thin, that wc deemed it expedient \o look out for a lodging betimes, and a little after sun- set we espied an opening, when Captain Baen and I \\ ent ashore, but we had to climb a precipice about 100 feet high before we reached it. After walking a little way we saw a house, but looking into it, we found it occupied by negroes only, and they told us that we could not get lodgings nearer than cuptain Hawes', on the banks of the river, distant two miles. We hailed the boat, and communicated this intelligence ; and it was agreed that our friends should drop down with the current, while we walked along the bank. As we were leaving the negro house, we were assailed by some dogs, and turned aside to chastise them ; but it being now nearly dark, we mistook our path, and wandered inadvertently along a bye-path into the woods. The path became more and more uneven ; the woods became more thick ; and the darkness increased. Under these circumstances we wandered mere than half an hour, when, having lost all trace of the path, we found ourselves entangled in a thicket ; and in attempting to disengage ourselves, we fell souse together over a large tree, and tumbled into a den, where we lay for some time, stunned by the fall. I now thought we had pro- ceeded far enough in this direction, and proposed to the captain that we should call a halt, for if we persevered, we would, in all probability, lose all idea of our situation, and might wander far out of our way. He concurred with me in opinion, and it was agreed that we sKould take the direction which we supposed led towai'ds the liver ; and if we did not find it in half an hour, we should then camp in the woods all night. In pursuance of this re- solution W3 walked ^n a considerable time, when, almost in de- spair of tindmg the right way, the captain called, " there's the river." This was a most joyful sound to my ears, the more so as I then taken up, with great but iD-directed cxertionii, vnul the pursuit was stopped liy the continual iufiux of water from springs in the nioiass. " In the year 1801, C. W. Peale, having purchased the bones already found, and the right of digging for the remainder, favoured by an unusually dry season, con- structed machinery to throw out the water, employed a number of hands. ««d after a- bout six weeks' anxious iabc.'.r, success so far crowned his enterprise, that fie was aide to put together a si eleton of this great uoN-oitsfRiPT, perfect in every part except the cranium." ^Ir. Peale also discovered anot>ier skeleton, a few miles diitant from the abova *^ch hit son, Rembrandt Psale, carried to Europe. 47 "\ 370 TRAVELS ON :| r found my conjecture doircct ; in place of walking towards the river, as wo suj)i)osed, we were marching along its banks, in a di- rection the very roversc of that which led to captain Hawe»' ; and on reaching the light road, wc found we were not many yardi from where we were assailed by the dogs. Wc now travelled very quickly, but it was near 1 1 o'clock be- fore we reached captain Hawes' ; and to compensate for our toil, wc expected that our fiiends would be there before us, and have a comfortable supper prepared. But wc were sadly disappointed : ihcy had not arrived, and 'we could perceive no trace of them on the river. Captain Hawes' family had gone to bed, and it was with some dilliculty we roused them, after which we went to the bank of the river to hail the boat; but after shouting till wc were hoarse, we could hear ho return. Wc were now in a sad dilemma, for we supposed our friends had fallen asleep in the boat, and must have floated past the plan- tulioii. One pf the people in Mr. 1 lawcs' house advised us to go close to the edge of the river, and hail, assuring us that our voice could bo heard above three miles up and down the stream. VVe followed his advice, and shouted till we made all the woods ring. At last we heard a very distant response up the river. It was our friends. We hailed several times, and had as many returns, but it was above an hour before they reached us. On their arrival they informed us, that they had fallen asleep in the boat, and were awoke by our first shouting, but thought they must have floated ' past, and were pulling up the river as hard as "^^ey could, v/hen they heard our second call ; at which time they judged they could not be less than three miles distant. Having secured our boat, we went together to the house, when the captain and I found we had got unwelcome great coats ; we were literally covered from head to foot with a species of burr called wood-lice. When we had finished our supper, we learned that there would be some little diiliculty in procuring beds, as several lodgers had got before us. An Irihh stranger had got the best bed in tlie house, by the fire-side, and, mistaking me for a country- man, he proHered me a share of it. It was too good an offer to be neglected; so in imitation of my humorous landlord at Wilton, I toklluni, " I was not just acountryman neither, butwas thenextdoor neighbour to it, which came to the same thing," so I would ac- C!. pt of his offer with pleasure. The two captains got stowed avr.iy in anothc the evenii Septeu] weather w the water heautiful j pears heal proceeded not able t( tion on thi cotton, ca Swiss sett! count of tl rival we w ing colony 10 years ai the KentU( to this pla the vineyai full maturi kinds, clar and the sa wine consis claret was palatable Mildeira w that it wan the colony ers, butth was indepe yards, and wine is so gallons at sell 3000 ; bring the ti, Frankf( male as he summer is summer it THE OHIO RIVER. 371 in another apartment, and, being predisposed by the fatigues of the evening, we enjoyed a very comfortable repose. September 16. We started at 6 o'clock in the morning: the weather was clear and calm ; the temperature of the air G'J°, of the water 68°. The river is here about 700 yards wide, and is a beautiful stream. The countiy is bedded on limestone, and ap- pears healthy, but the settlements are very thin. When we had proceeded eight miles, we found the breeze so strong, that we were not able to make head way against it, and we stopped at a planta- tion on the Kentucky side, where we saw a very handsome field of cotton, called here a colto7i patch. We were now in sight of a Swiss settlement on the other side of the river, to which, on ac- count of the hr»Ml wind, we moved with difliculty ; but on our ar- rival we were very uuich gratified \\y the appearance of this thriv- ing colony, ^\'e were \.o\k\ lliat they emigrated to America about iO years ago, and first attempted the business of vine-dressing ou the Kentucky river ; but not succeeding to their wish, they mo.ved to this place, which they found to answer very well. We found the vineyards in very good order, and the grapes, which were at full maturity, hung in most luxuriant clusters. They were of two kinds, claret and Madeira, both reputed to be of the best quality, and the sample which we tasted had an excellent flavour. The wine consisted of two kinds, of course, claret and Madeira. Tiie claret was rich in quality, but too acid. It was, however, a very palatable and pleasant beverage when diluted with water. The Mddeira wine we found very unpalatable, but we were informed that it wanted age. The person who gave us our information said the colony consisted of about 56 penons, \\ho were all vine-dress- ers, but they had no connection together in business. Each family was independent within itself. They have farms besides the vine- yards, and they make all their clothing, so that the produce of the wine is so much added to their stock. Last year they sold 2100 gallons at one dollar and a half per gallon ; this year they will sell 3000; and they are very sanguine that lliey will be ab'c to bring the business to full maturity. Tlieir insirkets are, Cincinna- ti, lirankfort, Lexington, and St. Louis. Tiiey represent the cli« male as healthy ; but the weather is changeable, and the lieat in summer is very great, being from 21 to 2G° of llcauRiur*. . This summer it was at one time as high as Sl./°;t but this v/as tlH» I fj R J 5 y Fahrenlitit SG° to 90^°. t r."Ur. 10ii° ga, ^^ ^ !^ !— ' 1 iW M., i L"i I If* 1:1 [If ' ,f 372 THAVELS ON tvarmest summer they ever experience J. The north-wett winds are cold ; south, south-east* and south-west winds are warm in sum- mer, and mild in winter; and they arc the most prevalent. Seven iniles below this we reached Port William, at the mouth of Kentucky river, where we stopped for the night. Port William is a small place, consisting of about 15 families only; and being subject to fever and ague in the fall, it is not likely to increase very fast. W^e were informed here, that some of the countiy people still retain their vicious propensity for fighting, biting, and goug- ing, and that they had lately introduced stabbing; a practice which had been learned at New Orleans ; but the laws being very severe against these vices, the lawless were kept in check, and xhe state of society was improving. The comet this night was uncommonly vivid. The evening was very warm, the thermometer being 76°. Kentucky river is here 200 yards wide. Sep. 17. We set out at 5 o'clock : the morning was foggy; the temperature of the air 02°, of the water 71*. Twelve miles be- low Kentucky river wc came to a town called Madison, recently laid out in the Indiana territory, as the capital of Jefferson county. It is situated on a fertile bottom, and contains 12 families; 3 taverns and 2 stores, 2 blacksmiths, 2 hatters, 1 brickmaker, and 1 stone- mason. The back country is rich, and settling very fast- The country here appears rather level, but to the southward it becomes more elevated. A short time after leaving this place, there was a great eclipse of the sun, and the water and surrounding scenery as- sumed a very dismal appearance here while it lasted. In the even- ing we reached another new town on the Indiana territory, called Bethlehem, and here we stopped all night. The inhabitants here were a collection from different quarters. — Our accommodations were very indifferent, but, to use their or.n phrase, they were ner^ settlers, and we must not expect niceties. — The town is laid out on a fine rich bottom, three streets being pa- rallel to the river, and three cross at right angles. The township extends along the river five miles, and one and a quarter into the interior of the country. The lots are half an acre each, and sell at present for 60 dollars. ^ Se}->tenibcr 18. — We started this morning at 6 o'clock. The river is here three quarters of a mile broad, and exhibits a noble appearance. As we'pi'oceeded downward we perceived a heaviness in the atmosphere, an evident sign that the south winds waft marsh navigable THE OHIO rivsk; 873 effluvia to this place, which may account for the fever and ngue tliat tonietimes prevails in the full. Wc now observed that the people were pale in colour, and hud not that rosy hue which they have above in Cincinnati ; but it is to be remarked, that they are mostly 71CJ0 settlers, and are very mixed. The river widened out as we pro- ceeded toi the fulls, above which a good way, on the Kentucky side, there arc many rich settlements. We heard the sound of the fulls when six miles distant, and we came to a landing at Louisville at 1 1 o'clock at night. From the observations made on this fine river, in my progress, the reader will be able to form a pretty accurate idea of it above the falls. In my account of Louisville, I bhall advert to the falls themselves, and shall close this chapter by a short account of the river below the falis^ together with a few incidental remarks on some particulars relative to the river generally. W . ^ The length of the river, from the falls to the Mississippi, is, ac- cording to Mr. Ellicot, 483 miles. It is 795 miles from Pittsburg to the falls, making the whole length of the Ohio 1188 ntiles. — Xhe breadth below the falls continues nearly the same asabove them, from 600 to 700 yards, till within 100 miles of the Mississippi, when it is 1000 yards. . The scenery on the river below the falls is agreeably variegated with hills and plains for about 50 miles, when the country on each side bccomej quite level for 1 50 miles. It then swells out into hills, which continue a considerable way, and again subsides into level plains, which continue to the junction of the Ohio with the Missis- sippi. The point of land at the confluence of the rivers, which is apt to excite so much attention in the map, is subject to be inun- dated by the vast freshets in these mighty waters, and it is thence marshy and uncultivated. The banks of the river are as yet but thinly settled below the falls, and the country is said not to be so healthy as above them ; though the soil is good, and it will all be settled up at no great di^ tance of time. The Ohio receives the waters of very considerable rivers between the fall and the Mississippi, viz. on the Kentucky side, Salt river, navigable 50 miles ; Green river, navigable 160 miles; Cumber- land river, navigable 300 or 400 miles ; and Tennessee river, na- vigable 1200 or 1400 miles; on the Indiana side. Blue river, navi- gable 40 miles ; and the Wabash, navigable upwards of 200 miles. ^, J^ ^ *~'*^^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 2.0 14.0 USi liiiJ4U4 ■ '- ■ M 6" » HiotogFaiM; Sciences Corporatton 4^ ^'\ WrS 23 WfST MAIN STMIT WfBSTCR,N.Y. MSM (716)«73-4S03 '^ »4 <\ um 374 TBAVELS ON The navigation is easy to the falls, and, after overcoming that single obstruction, thence to Cincinnati and Lipaestone. From Limestone to Wheeling there are a number of swift currents at the islands ; but they present no material obstruction, except when the water is very low. From Wheeling to Pittsburg, the number rf these swift currents are increased, and they arc more difficult to pass ; but the water is very seldom in such a state as to be iinpafr> sable in keel-boats. In skiffs it is passable at all times. The velocity of the current depends upon the quantity of water, which is exceedingly various. When I descended, it was in the lowest state ; and I did not calculate the velocity to be more than a mile an hour, including the ripples and Letart's falls. Iq spring and fall, particularly in spring, it rises to the astonishing height of from 40 to 60 feet, when the velocity is augmented in proportioi). The greatest velocity seems not to exceed 4 miles an hour. The prevailing winds here are from the south and south-west, and blow up the river, often exhibiting the appearance of the trade-winds of the West Indies, setting in about 8 or 9 o'clock in the morning, and dying away at 4 or 5 o'clock in the afternoon. These are of great consequence in the navigation of the river up- wards. Judging from the winds and current, when we descended, I presumed that we could have sailed from the falls to Pittsburg in little more than half the time we were in coming down. In high water, boats have passed from Pittsburg to the mouth of the Ohio in 15 days. Ten days is reckoned a quick passage to the falls. H The principal article? of trade downwards are flour, iron, tin and copper-wares, cabinet-work, glass, mill-stones, grindstones, apples, cyder, porter, whiskey, and peach-brandy. Upwards, they are cotton, hemp, hemp manufactures, lead, salt, and some- times sugar and coffee from New Orleans. The Ohio abounds with a great variety of fish, among which are catfish, pike, perch, and sturgeon ; and on the banks are great numbers of wild turkies, geese, ducks, pheasants, partridg- es, &c. The banks of the river are generally heavily timbered. The principal kinds of timber are oak, hickory, walnut, mulberry, chesnut, ash, cheri'y, locust, sugar-tree, &c.; and the sycamore> towering above the whole, grows here to an astonishing size. I noticed the remains of a very large sycamore tree ir the neigh* ii • » mm nnnn ujinmii THB OHIO BIVBR. 375 bouHiood of Pittsburg, and I saw most surprLsitig speciiAcns on the banks of this river. I did not measure any of them ; but the editor ot the Pittsburg Navigator, to whose testimony full faith may be given, mentions that he measured several from 10 to 16 feet in diameter. A gentleman from Marietta told him that he knew of one 60 feet in circumference, and that, in the hollow of another, he had turned himself round, with a pole in his hand 10 feet long. Into the hollow of another 13 men rode on horse- back, in June 1806, and the fourteenth was only prevented by the skittishness of his horse. The climate is delightful, and, except in some places in the neighbourhood of ponds, which can be easily drained, is perfect- ly healthy, particularly between Pittsburg and Cincinnati. The fogs that rise on the river are by no means uncongenial to health; indeed, I think they are rather the reverse; being the pure wa- ter of the Ohio in a state of vapour. Aqueous vapour contains a much larger proportion of vital air tha« the atmosphere ; and it is never too cold for the lungs, as it rises only in summer, when the heat of the water is greater than the atmosphere. From a nwnber of experiments, which I made with an accurate thermometer, I found that, in the night, the temperature of the air fre- quently fell from 10 to 25 degrees below the water, and when this was the case, the vapour rose, increasing with the di^roportion of temperature between the two fluids. A frequent result ih the morning, at sun-rise, was, air about 60°, water about 71" of temperature. About 7 o'clock, the influence of the sun begins to be felt, and the fog to' disperse; and, by the time that the air is heated to the same degree as the water, which seldom exceeils 8 or 9 o'clock, the fog wholly disappears. A never-failing result of my observations was, that, when the two fluids were near the same degree of temperature, or when the air yi&s warmer than the water, there was no fog. From this view of the subject it will be inferred, that the banks are congenial to all sorts of vegetation; and fruits flourish in jin eminent degree. In these fogs, therefore, we see the bounty of Providence displayed in the economy of nature. The Ohio runs in a deep bed, and forms such a drain as is calculated to deprive the adjoining banks of their moisture ; but these fogs lend their kindly assistance to supply tlie defect, and their balmy influence i* y .jS^' •v'i;',i 376 TRAVELS OK highly beneficial to the animal and vegetable creations, both of which flourish here in a very eminent degree. Thirty years ago, the whole country on the banks of this nver was almost an entire wilderness. Twenty years ago, a friend of mine descended, and could hardly get provisions by the way. When r descended, I found it4 banks studded with towns and farm>houses, so close that I slept on shore every night. I have no doubt but that, in 20 years more, the change wHl surpass all calculation ; and, in process of time, the banks of this river will exhibit one continued village, from Pittsburg to the falls ; the settlements being thickest, probably, between Limestone and Cin- cinnati, which situation I would at present prefer to any on the river. ■". '''■ '■' . ' What a fine prospect is held out here to the human race ! and how delightful the contemplation of it to a benevolent mind ! The whole of the banks of this beautiful river are fit for cultivation. Allowing it, thcreibre, to Me divided into farms of 160 acres each, having a quarter of a mile on the river, and a mile back from it, and each farm to maintain 10 persons^ the district from Pitts- burg to the falls would contain upwards of 60,000 souls; and their surplus produce would support double that number of in- dustrious tradesmen and their families, in the various towns settle^ upon it. To continue the settlements to New Orleans, the num- ber would be nearly 900,000. And yet this is but a small portion of the western country, the rivers of which^ emptying into the Mississippi alone, water more than a million of square miles of '..fertile land, capable of supporting 200 millions of inhabitants. . IHerOj indeed, is room enough for mankind to the thousandth and thousandeth generation ; and blessed are they who, lodcing up to Heaven, and to their own soil and industry, act in obe- dience to the command of God, " Be fruitful, and multiply) and replenish the earth." , J ' -V: /J, wmtmrnm^ TRB OHIO RIVBR. S77 CHAPTER LXXVI. LottisviUet^-JeffersonviUet — Clarksville^ — Falls of the Ohio, liOUISVILLE is situated opposite the falls of the Ohio, on an elevation of 70 feet above the river, and extends along it from Bear Grass creek nearly half a mile. Its breadth is about half that distance. It is regularly laid out, with streets crossing one another at right angles ; but the principal buildings are confined to one street. It consists of about 250 houses, many of them handsome brick buildings, and contains 1357 inhabitants, of whom 4S4 are slaves. Baing a place of great resort on the river, it has an ample number of taverns and stores. Except the manu- facture of ropes, rope-yarn, and cotton-bagging, which are car- ried on with spirit, there are no other manufactures of importance at Louisville, and the tradesmen are such as are calculated fur the country. The price of labour here is nearly the same as at Cin- cinnati. Some articles of provision are dearer, this being a mere convenient port for shipping than any above it. When I was there, flour sold for 5 dollars 50 cents per barrel ; meal 50 cents per cwt. Boarding was from 1 dollar 25 cents to 2 dollars per week. Louisville, being the principal port of the western part of the utate of Kentucky, is a market for the purchase of all kinds of produce, and th^ quantity that is annually shipped down the river is immense. A few of the articles, with the prices at the time that I was there, may be noticed. Flour and meal have been quot- ed. Wheat was 62^ cents per bushel; corn 50; rye 42; oats 25; hemp 4 dollars 50 cents per cwt. ; tobacco 2 dollars. Horses 25 to 100 dollars ; cows 10 to 15 dollars; sheep 1 dollar 25 cents to 5 dollars ; negroes about 400 dollars ; cotton bagging 81^ cents per yard. As to the state of society I cannot say much. The place is composed of people from all quarters, who are principally engag- ed in commerce; and a great number of the traders on the Ohio are constantly at this place, whose example will be nothing in favour of the young ; and slavery is against society every where. There are several schools, but none of them are under public patronage; and education seems to be but indifferently attended ♦ft \ V- JiF » \\ ■■I- 37^ TRAVELS OS to. Upon the whole, I must say, that the state of public morals admits of considerable improvement h«re; but indeed I saw Louisville at a season when a immber of the most respectable people were out of the place. Those with whom I had bunness were gentlemen, and I hope there are a sufficient number of them to check the progress of gaming and drinking, and to teach the young and the fhoughtless, that mankind, wichoat virtne and in- dustry, cannot be happy. Jeffehsonville is situated on the opposite side of the riverv « little above Louisville, and is the capital of Claric oonnty, in the Indiana territory. It was laid out in i 802 and now contains about 200 inhabitants, among whom are some useful mechanics. The United States have a land-office at this place, but the princ^al objects of my inquiry being more to the eastward, I did not visit it. There is a good landing at Jeffergonville, and^ at the best patnage is through what is called the Indran Shute, it is pro- bable that this place will materially interfere with the trade of Louisville, unless it be prevented by a plan to be hereafter noticted, in which case, each side, will have its own share of the valuable commerce of this river ; which, as it is yearly encVeasing, cannot fail to convert both sides of the Ohio here into great settlements. Clarksville, a fimall village, is situated at the fi^ot of the falh on the Indiana side, as is Shippingport, on the Kentucky side: and both answer for re-ship[)ing produce after vessels pass ihe falls. The Falls, or ratlier rapids of the Ohio, are occasioned by a ledge of rocks, which stretches quite across the river ; and through which it has forced a passage by several channels. The descent is only 22 feet in the course of two miles, and in high water is only to be perceived in the encreased velocity of the current, when the largest vessels pass over it in safety. When I was there, the water was low, and I observed three different passages, of which that on the Indiana side, called Indian Slmte, is said to be the best ; the middle one next best ; the one on the Kentucky side cannot be passed, except when the water is pretty full. But when the water is very low, they are all attended with danger, less or more, of which we saw an instance in a boat that came down the ) iver along with us. Her cargo was unloaded at Louisville, and she proceeded down the river; but, on taking the stream, she struck on the rocks, and lay there a wreck, when I came away. Good pilots have been appointed to carry veitsels over the falls. J •'•^^ • -f.i mmmm TUE OHIO BIVEI. 2)79 On vbiting thi» places a question immediately occurs : Why is « canal not cut here, which would remove the only obstruction to the trade of thi^ fine river ? It appears that the subject has been long in contemplation, and a company was incorporated by the legislature of Kentuc]iy to carry it into ffTcct. 'i'he ground has been surveyed, and no impediment has been suggested to the ex- ecution of the plan, except that there is a danger of the locks being injured by the freshets in the river, which, however, can be guarded against. But sufficient funds have not yet been raised, and it is said that an oj^inion prevails here, that the execution <-f a canal would hurt the trade of Louisville. As to funds, there should be no lack, for this is an object of national utility, in which the rich stales of Kentucky, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Ohio are particularly interested. No very great sum can be wanted to cut a canul, with only 22 feet full, the distance of two miles, in a situation where stones are plenty ; and if it is found that individuals would not wish to embark their capital in it, th^ re is no question but the United States, and the individual states noticed, would fill up the subscription, were the matter judicious- ly laid before them. As to the supposition that it would hurt the trade of Louisville, if it exists, it is founded on very narrow policy, and is just as correct an idea, as that a good turnpike road lei^ding through a town, will hurt the trade of that town. A free com- munication through a country is favourable to every portion of that country ; and were a canal cut upon tho Kentucky sjde here, it would not only counterbalance the benefit ari>>ing to the other side from the Indian Shute, but would be productive of advan- tages to Louisville, that at present cannot be estimated. The mills alone that might be erected, and set in motion by a judicious ap- plication of the water, would be of more inti'i^sic value than a gold mine. The following table, exhibiting the commerce on the C^iio, is extracted from the Pittsburg Navigator, and phpws the import- ance of this place, and the vast utility of a canal. Commerce of the Ohio from November 24tli, 1810, to Janu- ary 24th, 1811. In these two months 197 flat-boats, and 14 keel-boats descend* ed the falls of the Ohio, carrying i 380 TRAVBLii ON THI OHIO BITM. ;# 9- 'lo 11 4 18,611 bis. flour 520 do. pork 2,S73 do. whiskey 3,759 do. apples 1,085 do. cyder 721 do. do. royal 43 do. do. wine ' 323 do. peuch-brandy 46 do. cherry-bounce 17 do. vinegar 143 do. porter 62 do. beans 67 do. onions ' 20 do. ginseng *^'^ 200 groce bottled porter 260 gallons Seneca oil 1,526 lbs. butter 180 do. tallow a 64,750 do. lard 6,300 do. beef 681,900 lbs. pork in bulk 4,609 do. bacon 59 do. soap 300 do. feathers 400 do. hemp 1,484 do. thread 154,000 do. rope-yarn 20,784 do. bale-rope 27,700 yards bagging 4,619 do. tow-cloth 479 coils tarred rope 500 bushels oats 1,700 do. com 216 do. potatoes 817 hams venison 14,390 tame fowls 155 horses 286 ilaves 18,000 feet cherry plank 279,300 do. pine do. 4,433 do. cheese Also, a large quantity of potter's ware, ironmongery, cabinet- work, shoes, boots, and saddlery ; the amount of which could not be correctly ascertained. The country round Louisville is rich, but it is not well drained nor cultivated, and is consequently subject to fever and ague in the fall. There are a great many ponds in the neighbourtiood of 'the town ; at one of them, I observed a rope-walk erecting, and the people were draining the pond, by sinking a deep well, and letting the water run into it, which answered the purpose remark- ably well. It would appear hence, that the water filtrates to the river below ground, and perhaps this plan might be generally a- dopted. I am persuaded that nothing but draining is wanted to render Louisville quite healthy, and one of the most agreeable situations on the Ohio river. IMP >, INDIANA TEBKITORY. CHAPTER LXXVII. 381 Indiana Tcrritoiy, — Illinois Tetritonff — North- West Teiritory^ — Louisiana Territory ^ — Orleans Territoiyy — Mississippi Ttiri- torjfi Mississijfpi river. Being now at the ne phis ultra of my journey to the westward* I shall here take a brief view of the western territories. INDIANA TERRITORY Is situated between north latitude 37° 47' and 41" 50'; and west longitude T^ 40' and 10° 45'. lu greatest length is 284 miles,, and its breadth 155. Its area is 39,000 square miles; or, 24,960,000 acres. The face of the country is hilly, not mountainous and the scenery is said to be rich and variegated, abounding with plains and large prairies. The principal river is the Wabash, which is said to be a beau- tiful stream, 280 yards broad ut its outlet, and navigable upwards of 220 qiiles. It rises near the boundary line between the state of Ohio and the Indiana Territory, about 100 miles from lake Erie^ where there is a portage of only eight miles between it and the Miami of the lakes. Its course is nearly south-west, and the dis- tance it runs, including its windings, is not less than 500 miles. A greaCimany tributary streams flow into it, the chief of which is White river, upwards of 200 miles long. Tippacanoe river, near which are tlie largest settlements of Indians in the territory, fall* into the Wabash ; and it is near the outlet c' rvit river where tho Prophet is at present collecting his forces. The soil is said to be generally rich and fertile. The climate is delightful, except in the neighbourhood of marshf es, chiefly confined to the lower parts of the territory. The settlements commenced about 12 or 14 years ago, and have mode considerable progress, though they have been retarded bj the settlement of the fertile and beautiful state of Ohio, which it situated between this and the old states. "■' ' '<^ The greater part of the territory is yet subjectWindian claimsi. Where they have been extinguished, and the white se^lements have been made, it is divided into four counties, and 22 townships, thtf 1 i! i-; • k t. 382 INDIANA TBKRITORY. greater part of which are on the Ohio : and nome few on the Wabash and White-wat^r river. The inhabitants amountcdi by the census of 1800, to 5641 ; they now amount to 24,520, being an increase of 18,879 in 10 years. ,1 The principal town is Vincennes, on the Wabash. It is an old settlement, and the inliabitants are mostly of French extraction ; they amounted, by last census, to 670. The greater part of the others have been noticed. The agriculture of the territory is nearly the same os that of the state of Ohio. Every kind of grain, grass, and fruit comes to maturity, and towards the southern part of it considerable crops of cotton are raised, though only for domestic use. As the inhabitants make nearly all their own clothing, they have little external trade. What little they have is down the river to New Orleans. This, in common with the other territories, is under the imme- diate controul of the government of the United States. It has a certain form of government prescribed by a special ordinance oi congress, by which the religious and political rights of the mem- bers of the community are guaranteed. In this ordinance it is declared, that no person demeaning himself in a peaceable and orderly manner shidl ever be molested on account of his religion. The inhabitants shall always be entitled to the benefits of the writ of habeas corpus, and the trial by jury. All offences shall be bail- able unless they are capital. Fines shall be moderate. Religion, morality, and knowledge,' being necessary to good government and the happiness of mankind, schools and the means of education shall for ever be encouraged. Good faith shall always be observed to the Indians, and their lands shall never be taken from them with- out their consent. The navigable waters leading into the Missis- |ippi and St. Lawrence, and the carrying places between the same, shall be common highways, and for ever free, as well to the inha- bitants of the said territories as to the citizens (^ the United States, mnd those of any other states that may be admitted into the confederacy, without any tax, impost, or duty therefore. Whenever any of the territories shall have 60,000 free inhabitants, they shall be erected into a state, to be admitted, by its delegates, into the congress of the United States, on an equal footing with 'the original states. Slavery was originally prohibited, but the law has been relaxed in favour of the new settlers who have slaves^ iM there ar« now 237 slaves in this territory. '■■■>^-rym aH, g* *1 P " ■ ILLINOIS TIRRITOKT. 883 ILLINOIS TERRITORY 1 k> If situated between se^ 57' and 41 <> 50' nonh latitude; and 10<> 15' and 14° S' west longitude. Its greatest length is 347 miles, and its greatest breadth 206. Its area is 52,000 square miles ; being 8S,280,000 acres. The face of the country is rery much assimilated to that of tb« Indiana Territory; but towards the south the surface becomes very level, and the point of land between the Misitissippi and Ohia rivers is frequently overflowed. It is washed on the westward by the noble Mississippi river, and on the south by the Ohio. In the interior are many considerable itreams, nearly qU emptying into the Mississippi. Beginning at the northern extremity, the flr»t is Stoney river, a large navigable stream upwards of 220 miles loi^, and having fertile banks. The Illinois is a very large navigable rive#, rising near the south end of lake Michigan, and pursuing a course nearly south-west, it falls into the Mississippi, about 20 miles above its junction with the Missouri ; its whole length being nearly 500 miles. The lands on the banks of this river are represented as being very rich, produc* iag grain, grass, flax, hemp, fruit, &c. Kaskaskia is a large river, navigable for boats 150 miles into the interior of the country ; ita, whole len^h being about 200 miles. The country on its banks i» raid to be healthy. The soil and climate are the same as in the Indiana Territory, except in the low part, which is marshy, and not quite so healthy. Some settlements were made in this territory by the French at an eariy period, but it is only of late that any material progress has been made. The parts of it that are settled have been divided in- to two counties and IS townships; containing 12,282 inhabitants^ of whom 168 are slaves. , Kaskaskia, which contains 622 inhabitants, is the principal town. The remarks relative to agriculture produce, government^ /$c; made on the Indiana Territory, apply to this. /♦v- \ SK-^ ' ••Bi:'' ,^^ -■" ..'Sit «■« % 38* THl MOUTH* WEST TERlITOllT. THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. k ^; i.' This large tract has no name on the maps, but, in consequence •f its position, I have given it the above designation here, It is boundetl on the west by the Mississippi river, on the east by lake Michigan, anil the straits of St. Mary, on the south by the two territories just noticed, and on the north by lake Superior and the Britisli possessions. The territory is about 486 mileh long, by 417 broad; and contains 106,830 square miles, or 68,971,200 acres. The face of the country is pretty similar to the territories last noticed. It is elegantly watered, llie Mississippi washes it upon the we&t, lake Michigan on the east, lake Superior upon the north ; and it has several fine rivers in the interior. Towards the north there are a number of considerable streams which fall into the Mississippi, that nearly interlock with others that fall into lake Superior. But the largest river in the territory is the Ouisconsin, which rises within 50 miles of lake Superior, and after a course of 400 miles falls into ihe Mississippi, 3S0 miles above the Missouri. Fox river rises in the high lands near the banks of the last mention- ed river, and runs nearly paraUel to it for 50 miles, at one place approaching within S miles of it. From thence it pursues a north- cast course, and passing through Winnebago lake, falls into Greenbay, a branch of lake Michigan. Both these rivers are na^ vigable, and in a future stage of population they will probably form un excellent communication between the lakes and the Mis* flissippi. This territory is said to contain a great deal of good soil, par- ticularly towards the south, and will, in process of time, become the seat of very valuable settlcfnents. "^rhe climate is pleasant towards the south, being assimilated to that of the western parts of New- York, but towards the north it becomes vei'y cold ; though, being within the influence of the ae- rial current of the Mississippi, it is not so cold as the region pa- rallel to it east of the mountains. Very few settlements of white people have yet been made in this territory ; and the Indian claim to the lands remain, I believe, en- tire, throughout the whole district ; so that it has not yet been form- ed into a territorial government, and the inhabitants are not indud* ed in the census of the United States • Is ani bjrtheSj the Gulf ''>f^'-' 1 1 LOUllIiNA. LOUISIANA '3% Is an immense territory, bounded by the MiniMippi on the east; by the Spanish poesessions on the west ; by Orleans territory and the Gulf of Mexico on the south, and on the north by the British possessions. It extends from the Gulf of Mexico, injatitude 28* to 48<* north, and from west longitude 12° 50' to 35*> ; being 1494 miles long, from north to south, and, though the western boundary hss not been clearly ascertained, the breadth may be assumed at S86 miles. Its area may be computed at neary 985,250 square miles, or 6300,560,000 acres. In such an amaziitg extent of territory the face of the country mast be excecdinglj| diversified. Towards the south the land is low, and in many places overflowed by rivers. To the north it be- comes elevated, in many places swelling out into large hills ; and towards the west there are very lofty mountains. < ■ ) • * The rivers are numerous and extensive, and form a remarkable iSeature in the geography of this country. The Mississippi washes it on the east, including its windings, upwards of 2000 miles, and it has in the interior some of the finest rivers in the world. The principal river is the Missouri, which, indeed, is the largest bnuich of the Mississipi. The sources of this river are still un- known, although one of ita branches was navigated by Lewis and Clark 3090 miles, where it is enclosed by very lofly mountains. Below this 242 miles, there is a confluence of three different branch- ' a of the head waters, in lat 45** 23'; from thence the river appears to bend considerably to the northward, the great falls being in lat. ' 47° S\ distant from the mouth of the river 2575 miles. These falls are 18 miles long, and in that distance descend 362 feet. The first great pitch is 98 feet, the second 19, the third 48, the fourth 26, and other pitches and ra^nds make up the quantity above mentioned. In lat. 47** 24', the river forms a junction with another nearly as large, and it is here S72 yards broad. In lat. 47 , 2270 miles from ' its outlet, it is clear and beautiful, and 300 yards wide. At 1888 miles from its outlet it is 527 yards wide, its current deep, rapid, and full of sand bars. At 1610 miles a fort has been erected, call- ed Fort Mandan, in lat 47° 21'; and here the winters arerepre. sented as being very cold. From thence to the mouth the naviga. tim is very good, tiie current being deep and rapid, and the water . - 49 4- 1* u ■■■* I . A .««»«K^r f M ■'f / 386 LOUISlANAi miuldy. Its breadth is various, from 300 to 800 yards; and at tb« outlet in 38* 45' it is about 700 yards broad. In itsprogrew it it augmented by a vast number of streams, the principal of which are Yellow Stone, Little Missouri, Piatt, Kanzas, and Osage. The Moin, a very considerable river, falls into the Mississippi about 200 niiks above the Missouri, and below the tails of St. An- thony, in lut. 45'*, St, PeterVriver, a very large stream, falls into the Mississippi. ■• St. Francis rises near St. Louis, and running nearly a south course, upwards of 350 miles, falls mto the Mississippi, in lat. H* 45', b;,' a channel 200 yards broad. It is said to be navigable 200 miles. Arkansas is a very large river, rising in Mexico, and running a south-east course, falls into the Mississippi, in lat. 33** 45' ; being navigable 300 or 400 miles. '"' < - : ' "?,f s * .. Rod river, and Black river are two very large streams, rising be- tween the lat. of 35 and SG**, about 100 miles apart ; and running nearly 600 miles, they form a junction about 23 miles from the Mis- sissippi, which they enter in lat. 31° 5', 1014 miles below the Missouri. There are a great number of rivers to the westward, falling into the Gulf of Mexico ; but owing to the country being little known, they do not seem to have excited much interest. One of tlie prin- cipal is tlie Sabine, the western boundary of the Orleans territory. The territory is said to abound with valuable minerals, of every description ; but the branch that seems to have excited greatest at- tention is the lead mines, near St. Genevieve, which yield annu- ally a Viist quantity of that useful commodity. The soil and climate of Louisiana are said to be shnilar in every respect to that of the countries lying parallel to it east of the Mis- sissippi. Near that river the soil is rich, and the climate temperate; but it becomes more cold to the westward, and towards the moun- tains the cold is represented as being very severe ; the ami being sterile, and the brooks in many places strongly impregnated with salt* This country was discovered by Sebastian Cabot, in 1497. In 1512, John Pontic ,de Leon, a Spaniard, arrived on the coast, and attempted a scttletdent. In 1684, Mons. de la Sale discovered the mouth of the Mississippi, and built Fort Lewis ; but he being as- sassinated, it was abandoned till 1698, when captain Iberville pene- tiiated up the Mississippi, and having planted a few settlers, called LOUISIANA. 387 the country Louibiana. About 1720, M. de la Sueur sailed up th« Mtttissippi 760 leagues. About this time John Law, a Scotsman, projected the famous Mississippi scheme, which bubble burst in the year 17S1, after involving many respectable merchants in ruin . In 1762 the French government ceded Louisiana and the liie of Or- leans to Spain. In 1800-1801 Spain ceded the country to the French government, who, by tlie treaty of April 30, 1803, ceded it to the United States, and they took possession of it on the l^Oth of December tbllowing. The territory of Louisiana, as ceded, has been divided into two territorial governments, Louisiana and Orleans. Louiiiiuna is di- Tided into the following districts : St. Charles, St. Louis, St. Gene- vieve, cape Gerardeau, New Madrid, Hopefield, and St. Francis, and the settlements on the Arkantias. By the last census it contain- ed 20,845 inhabitants, of whom S,011 are slaves. The territory of Orleans being more favourably situated for trade, and a disposal of their produce, this territory has as yet mailc no very rapid progress in improvements. The chief settlements are near the Missouri, and along the Mississippi to New Msdiid; with some on the Ai'kansas and St. Francis* St. Louis is the capital, and contains 1500 inhabitants. It is si- Uiated on the Mississippi, in lat. 38** 38', in a fine healthy country, OD a bed of limestone, having rich settlements around it. It is in- creasing in population and wealth ; and several manufactories have been recently established. St. Charles, a handsome village, is situated on the left bonk q^ the Missouri, 18 miles from St. Louis, by an excellent road, lead- ing through a rich country. In 1807, it contained 500 inhabitants, chiefly French ; but many Americans have lately settled in iL St, Ge- nevieve contains about 1200 inhabitants, and is increasing in popu* lation and wealth ; having about 20 stores, and being the deposito of the produce of the lead mines. Gerardeau is a small town, situated on an eminence on the right side of the Mississippi, and contains from 30 to 40 houses only ; but it has a fine bock country, and is improving. There is a post road from this place to Fort Massac and the mouth of the Cumberland river. New Madrid is beautifully>situated on the Mississippi ; but con- tains a few houses only. The agriculture and produce of Upper Louisiana are similar to % ■ ■-"] ■i*=^a m--'. 388 ORLEANS TBRltlTORY. those of Ae territories opposite to it. In Lower Louisiana, in addi- tion to grain, vegetables, and fruit, they raise cotton in great abnii- dance, and in some places sugar and indigo. The government is the same as the territories east of the Missis- sippi ; but to accommodate the original settlers, who had slaves, slavery is continued on the same principle as in the southern states. "* ' ' ORLEANS TERRITORY Comprehends that part of Louisiana which extends from S3* north latitude to the Gulf of Mexico; and from West Florida to the Sabine river, which falls into the Gulf of Mexico in west lon- gitude 17°. Its extreme length from east to west is SOO miles, and breadth from north to south 241. Its area is 41,000 square miles, containing 26,240,000 acres. This territory is level towards the Gulf of Mexico; but towards the north it becomes more elevated. It is remarkably well watered, having the Mississippi to the east, and the Gulf of Mexico south ; and in the interior are many fine rivers, the principal of which, the Red river and Sabine, have been already noticed ; but the Mexi- cano andTache are both considerable streams, falling into the Gulf ofMexico^ <' The soil is represented to be rich and fertile, producing in abun- dance every sort of grain, grass, fruit, and vegetables; besides in* digo, ^cotton, and «ugar. The culture of the last has rapidly in- creased since the stoppage of the foreign trade, and will, in all pro- bability, soon be equal to the supply of the whole United States. The climate is nearly assimilated to that of the low parts of South Carolina and Georgia, noticed, page 201 : but it is to be observed that the trade winds being turned to the north (see page 32,) and blowing over this district through its whole extent, they fan and cool the air, and render the climate both more agreeable ^nd more heal- thy than that of the parallel latitudes to the eastward of the mountains. The history of the early settlement of this district is included in that of Louisiana. The territory is now divided into 12 counties, and by last census contains 76,556 inhabittmts, of whom 34,660 are slaves, and 7,585 free people of colour.* * In 1812, this territory was admitted into the union, an ISth state, by the name of Louisiana, and will send two senators and one repieseatative to congress. mM. ■■ Tiis.>?'N>» ORLiAMSi TElilllTOnT. 389 Sinct thh territory was ceded to the United States, and they have acquired the free navigation of the Mississippi and its waters, society has made rapid progress here. The banks of the Missis- sippi between New Orleans and Natches are represerited as being in a high state of cultivation, and the produce is most abundant. New Orleans is the capital, and contains 17,242 inhabitants, including 5,796 slaves, and 4,950 free negroes. It is situated in latitude 29<' 57', and it is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one another at right angles ; but they are narrow, being generally not more than 40 feet in breadth. The houses in the principal streets are built of brick, but the others mostly of wood. The middle of the streets are unpaved, and^ in wet weather, are very muddy ; but the town is well supplied with good side pavements. The city extends nearly a mile along the river, an^ is about half a mile broad. There is a square in the centre, which is covered with grass, and contains the cathedral and town -house. There is a market-house of considerable extent, and it is well supplied with vegetables, but the meat and fish are said to be poor. The city lies below the surface of the river, ou wliich there if in embankment, called a lp\6% to defend it and the adjacent coun- try from being overflowed. This lev^e, is of greai extent, run- ning more than 130 miles up the country, and on the top of it there is an excellent dry road. , A plan has lately been agreed upon for supplying the city witb water from the Mississippi, which will add much to the comfort and health of the inhabitants. A winter residence in this city is said to be very pleasant ; but it b generally sickly in summer, and many of the pec^le leave it for two or three months. As it is) however, the great mart Sot receiving the commodities wiiich arc shipped from the Missfssppi' river, it will always .continue to be a place of great trade» mnI will increase, probably, to a greater extent than any sea-port Itt America. Except domestic manufactures, wHich do not appear to be car- ried on to a great extent, there are no material manufactures her^ and in all probability the trade of this place will continue for » long time to be an object of solicitude to the manufacturing dis- tricts ; particularly Pittsburg, and Lexington, in Kentucky ; aedti oa the other band, from the increase of cotton and sugar, a gre«t trade will always be supported between New Orleans and the citiM ii S i V,' I I 1 ' 1 m m 1 1 1 fl k4i '41 !■■■. ''>1 Il^ H \i 390 MISSISSIPPI TBRKITORY. on the Atlantic The direct exports of 1810 amounted to 1)897,522 dollars ; but it is to be observed, that the greatest part of the ex- ports are by the way of the eastern states, no part of which is en- tered at the custom-house. The people are represented as being gay and lively ; their man> ners being pretty much assimilated to those of the French, llie government is similar to that of the other territories of the United States, and guarantees religious and political freedom. ; MISSISSIPPI TERRITORY . Is bounded on die west by the Mississippi, on the east by Georgia, on the north by Tennessee, and on the south by Orleanit Territory and Florida. It is situated between north latitude 81** and 85**, and west longitude 8** and 14* SO'; being in length, firom east to west, 390 miles, and in breadth 278. Its area ii about 88,680 square miles, or 56,755,200 acres. The face of the country is somewhat similar to those parts of Orleans Territory and Louisiana Territory that are opposite to it Towards the south it is pretty level ; but it becomes more elevat- ed to the northward; and in the north-east there are some spurs of the Allegany mountains. It is remaiicaUy well watered with rivers*and small streams. The Mississippi, including its windings, waters it on the west nearly 600 miles, and receives several rivers, particularly the Yazoo and Black rivers ; the former of which is rendered remarkable by the speculation in the public lands on its banks, known by the name of the Yazoo speculation. The Tennessee river runs through the northern part of this territory by a remarkable bend ; and at the Muscle shoals, on that river, canals have been projected to the Tumbekby, a large navigable stream that flows into the Gulf of Mexico, through Mobile bay. The Alabama, which is composed oi several large streams rising in Georgia, forms a junction with this river. The other principal streams are Pearl riyer,'Pa8C8- goula» Conecuh, and Chatahouchy, which last is the boundary, for a considerable way, between this territory and Georgia. The greater part of these rivers are navigable, and fall into the Gulf of Mexico, through Florida ; which circumstance shows of bow much importance it is to the safety and prosperity of this portion of the United States to have possession of the Floridas. West Florida, as far as Perdido river, was ceded to the United States MISSISIPPI TIllliIT0RY. 591 along with Louisuina, and, judging from recent transactions, we may conclude that they will soon be in possession of the whole, which will be productive of a lasting benefiti both to the inhabi- tants of Florida and the United States. There is in this territory a great diversity of soil ; but it con« tains much excellent land in the lower part, principally on the water courses. In the northern part, it extends throughout the territory. The principal timber in the lower parts is pine; in the upper parts, oak, hidcory, walnut, cherry, and poplar. The climate is represented as highly favourable ; the winters being mild, and the summers not materially hotter than several d^ecs farther to the northward. The heat is seldom oppressive within doors, and the nights are said to be more comfortable Uian in Virginia. There is but little snow or ice ; so that the cattle graze in the fields all winter, a circumstance highly favourable to. the husbandman. The following extracts are from a register kept near Fort Stoddart. Warmest. CJoldest. Ther. 52* 1807. April 2, 15, May 2, 17, rune 6, July 10, 29, Jun 82 66 90 90 82 94 74 7r 61 80 82 69 78 65 '¥ Mean heat in July, 86<^. Aug. 2, Ther. 88o Sept. 6, 95 80* 8, • ■ 74 . •' '-^ : -../^^.^i. Mean heat in September, 84* 1808. Jan. 8, Ther. 55'* 9, 61 21, 60 Feb. 8, 56 * 12, ' 79 iV March 21, 6S ^• 28, 86 The days selected are the warmest and coldest in the respective Bumths. 56* 43 62 55 ^^A 1 m S ' '•I g ^•. ■>»ii ^1^ MISSISSIPPI TIHIITORT. April 2, Trees were in leaC ^ 19, Peas in pod. Mny 2, Green peas at table. Strawberries ripe. 16, Mulberries ripe. June 19, Roasting ears (of corn) at table. lettuce and cabbage stand M'ell all winter. Tliis extensive territory was originally claimed by the state of Georgia, and, in 1795, the IcjgisJature of that state sold 22,000,000 of acres of land in it for $00,000 dolktrs; but the act avthorizing the sale was objected to by a succeeding legislature. The sale was declared null and void, and the records relative to it were pub- licly burnt. It was claimed by the United States, and, in 1800, erected into a territory. The inbahijtants have lately petitioned to be admitted into the union as a state ; but the measure has not yet been decided on by congress. The territory is at present divided into 1 1 counties and 2 towns, and contains 40,352 inhabitants, of whom 17,088 are slaves, and 24-0 free negroes. The Indian -population is about 40,000 more; and some of the tribes, it is said, look forward to foe admitted into the union as citizens of the United States. The principal settlements in this territory are along the Missis- sippi river. NxtcHES is the capital, and contains l&Ll inhabi- tants. Adams county in this district contains 5,030 mliabitants, Wilkinson county 5,068, and Madison county 4,699; but the greater part of the settlers are scattered throughout the land, and it is said that few of the plantations exhibit any thiqg like neatness, being even without fences to protect the crops. The principal produce is Indian «om and cotton. SotAe wheat, rye, and oats are raised Rice is cultivated in the river swamps, and indigo and sugar-cane are cultivated to a considerable extent. The principal mMiitfacturejs are household sti^s, principally of cotton, ^^ . , . f ' The trade to the westward is through the medium of the Mis- sissippi. To the eastvwrd, the surplus produce, consisting prin- cipally of corn, beef,, gnd pork, fi^ds a market in Mobile and Pensacola. Vessels 4r^wing 13 or 14 feet of water can go easier to Fort Stoddart th§n to New Orleans ; and it is said thcfre are no material obstructions in the Tunibekby river jfi miles above IbrtStoddwte&i.Ki^^j,... _ ' • it :^4J .i* MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 393 In the settlements contiguous to the Mississippi, socfety has made considerable progress ; but, towards ihe Mobile, they are so scattered, that they have no fixed character. There are no colleges, no permanent schools, no regular places of worship, no literary institutions, no towns, no good houses, and but few com- fortable ones. There are few mechanics, and scarcely any pro- fessional men, except lawyers.* I shall conclude this chapter with a short account of the ■:^:iiKVW MISSISSIPPI RIVER. This noble river, which has bef>n emphatically termed the Nilo of America, though it is in fact much larger than that river, rises in a lake, in latitude 48<> 16', and being joined by a great variety of small streams, it passes the falls of St. Anthony, 29 feet in height, in latitude 45^, where it is little more than 100 yards wide. From thence it runs a course east of south, and receives one consider- able river from the west, and two from the cast ; and,> in latitude 42% it receives the Ouisconsin, by which therq is a communica- tion with lake Michigan. In latitude 39°, it receives the important Illinois river from the east, and a few miles below, the Missouri from the west, being the main branch, and by far the longest, having been navigated to the westward upwards of 3000 miles. The waters above this are clear, but the Missouri is a muddy stream, and imparts its hue to the Mississippi. In latitude 37°, it forms a junction with the Ohio, which may becallcd the great eastern branch, as the Missouri is the western. There is now a vast cpllection of waters, and it rolls along with a majestic sweep, by a serpentine course, through a very variegated country, but, upon the whole, rather level; and after receiving in its progress the Yazoo and Black river from the east, and the St. Francis, Arkansas, and Red river from the west, besides innumerable small streams, it falls into the gulf of Mexico, 118 miles below New Orleans; its whole length being upwards of 2500^mile3. The breadth of the river is various* At its junction with the Missouri, it is about half a mile, at the Ohio three-fourths, at Natches one mile^ at New Orleans a mile and half, at its outlet two miles ; but it varies considerably between these points. The quantity of water that is discharged by this mighty river is immense. From the Missouri to the Ohio, it is about 1 5 feet ^^ * Pittsbuig Navigator. 59 ^■i. *.-" 391 MISSISSIPPI RITER. ilec{i ; from the Ohio to Ndw Orleans 30 to 60 ; and from thence to the gulf of Mexico, 30 to 40. The current is from three and a Imll to four miles an hour, and when high somewhat greater. Assuming as a data, that the current is four miles an hour at its outlet, tlie breadth two miles, and the depth 40 feet, a calculation nuiy be made of the water discharged. It amounts to the as- tonishing quantity of Oi millions of gallons per second, or 5640 millions per minute. The banks of the river above the Ohio, are pretty similar to those of that river. Below that, the country becomes more level, and a considerable part of the way the river runs on a ridge, form- ed by the earth carried down by the annual inundation. At some places it overflows its bunks, during the freshets, to the amazing extent of 50 miles, principally to the westward ; and part of this water never returns, but goes to the ocean by other channels. From New Orleans to Natches, these overflowings are prevented by a bank called a lev^e, and in all this distance the banks are well cultivated. It is probable that this system will be adopted through- out the low country, in which case the very rich country on its l>unks will support a vast population, and raise an immense quan- tity of produce. llie trade of this river is already very great, but it is small com' pared to what it will be. The settlement of a country so rich, and so well supplied 'with navigable rivers, under a form of government which guarantees equal rights to all, Yfust bring forward surplus produce to a great extent; and as it must all find an outlet by this river, it will unquelstionably constitute it the greatest commercial river, and New Orleans one of the greatest depots, in the universe. This view suggests, even at this early period, of what importance it is to endeavour, by every means, to clear the river of all obstruc- tions, and to render the gieat city of New Orleans as healthy and as comfortable as circumstances will admit.* X" * Tlie obctacles to the navigation of this river ai^ lessening evtry year. - The (team. boat, which I noticed at Pittsburg, has been started between New Orleansund Natdm and is found to answer the purpose remarkably well. Little doubt remains, but that the line of steam-VMmts will be established to Pittsburg, and probably another to St Louis ; in which case these rivers will be all navigable upwards with a degree of Acil- ity, tliat will ensure a return without a tedious passage by the Atlantic ports. The plan noticed for sitpptying New Orkans with water, will be a most important improvement to the city, and, as the country settles up, it will be all drained, aad it is to be I become quite ht althy. m MISSISSIPPI mviii. 395 1 thence irce and greater. )ur at its Iculation > the as- or 5640 milar to ore level, ge, form- At some i timazing art of this channels, prevented IS are well \ through- itry on its ;nse quan- small com* o rich, and rovemment ird surplus itlet by this commercial he universe, importance all obstruc- bealthy and ir. • The tXW*' unsund Natdiw. itnains, but that I anothw to At degree of tid- ports. The plan tit improvemm' t istobehopei I shall close this account of one of the noblest rivers in the world) oy the following pertinent remarks from the Pittsburg Navigatof, " What a reverse in the situation of a trader, since the banks of the Mississippi have become the soil of the United States ; since the governor of a republican people has been happily placed in the chair of, not one, but many tyrants ; since, in fact, he traf- fics with tho^ to whom he looks up as friends, instead of those whose every glance was dire jealousy and suspicion — whoso de- meanor, bombastic pride and ostentation — whose pursuit and plan in trade was one continued system of bribery, fraud, and chican- ery, from the first authority in the old, to tlic last in this their fo- reign government !* What a reverse is the situation of you, western Americans I Wliat ii conquest gained ! — A conquest equal to a se- cond revolution — a vast und niinost unlimited territory acquired without the loss of a drop of blood. Happy Columbians I prosperity smiles — must smile — on all governments equally mild and just with yours I' * The following anecdote, copied from Schnltr's Travels, afTords some idea of the ' «hAme]c$4 corruption and villany of the Spanish government. " At tlie lower end of the town of St. Genevieve, is still to be seen the remains of a Spanish fort, which, being erected on an eminence, corresponded with that of Kaska»- kias by signals. I was informed of a very singular transaction relative to the building of this fort ' " It seems, after the fort was completed, the commandant, had to wait upon the governor of the province to present his charges. They were accordingly presented, and amounted to 421 dollars. The governor, after examining the account, returned it to the commandant, informing him there was some mistake. The commandant retired and examined it again, but, finding it entirely correct, presented it once more. The governor, on looking it over, imformed bin it was still incorrect, and advised him to consult with some friend, as he had omitted a figure or two. 'Hie commandant then vailed upon a friend to lu«k over his accounts with him, who no sooner saw the amount, than he burst into a loud laugh, and taking up a pen added a to the sum already stated. The commandant presented his accounts the third time, when his excellency replied it was not quite right yet. The commandant was amazed ! but what was his astonishment, when he related the aflair to his friend, to sec liim add another to the last sum, making it 42, 100 instead of 431 ! On presenting the account tlie fourtli time it was gnciotudy received ; and for the discbarge of the whole « very small part was paid to the commandant H. 395 ' TRAVELS IM CHAPTER LXXVIII. :':%u , i? lii.' '■ ' .- It-- '■"'i gn>|| ^ •^ Hi ^iXji iftfw Louisville, — Middleton, — Slielht/ville, — Franl^ort, — Veisailles — Lexington, MJUllINGmy stay at Louisville, the threatened Indian war was the general topic of conversation, and the inhabitants here were not so sanguine as those at Cincinnati. They thought there would certainly be fighting, though they did not apprehend there would ■^' be any serious battle ; and they had no fear whatever that any part uf Kentucky would be disturbed. Captain Baen, my fellow>pas^ senger, assured me, when we were on the river, that there was un> questionable evidence of the Indians being stirred up by the Brit- ish, and I found this to be the current belief here, corrol)orated by captain Ball, of Virginia, who was an officer in general Wayne's army. He represented the Indians, in that quarter, as dastardly, treacherous, cruel wretches, who, if they came to action, ought to get no quarter, as they had not the smallest cause for quarrel. Colonel Boyd had embarked with his regiment H days before, and no appro* hension was entertained as to the result of a rencounter, if one took place. Captain Baen was waiting for a brother officer, and intended , to set out in a few days on horseback, to join the army at Vincennes.* , * V g , The principal assemblages of hostile Indians were on the Wa- , bash, 100 miles above that post. It was not supposed that any ' material mischief would be done by the Indians, except in sotne f straggling settlements on the road, between the Prophet's town and Fort Maiden, in Canada, between which places an active in- lercourse was kept up. Having purchased a handsome mare, for which I paid 25 dol-> ^>-*lars, I bade adieu to the captain and my French travelling com- panion, and set out for Lexington on the 22d of September, at 8 f o'clock, along with captain Ball, and some other gentlemen. Some rain had fallen, which rendered the road a little muddy, but it W9S pretty good otherwise, and led through a very rich, level cpuntry, for two miles, when we crossed Bear Grass creek, where there are some mills. In our way we saw a number of small r" ponds, which sufficiently account for the prevalence of the fever and ague. Land, we were told, wast held as high as 20 to 50 >* Tliisainuble ofHcer was unfortuaateljr killed in a battle with the Indians some time iVk saittet KKNTUCKY. 39? dollars unimproved, and a great deal of it is held on speculation, which operates very much against the clearing and draining of the country. Tlie country rises a little to the eastward. We passed a num- ber of very rich farms on ofur way to Middlcton, twelve miles dis- tant from Louisville. MiODLETON consists of 40 or 50 dwelling houses, and is on the head waters of Bear Grass creek. Land is held at about 10 dol- lars per acre. Here my fellow-traveller, who was troubled with the ague, was, seized with a fit, and I was obliged to travel on alone. The coun- try beyond this got more hilly, and perfectly healthy, to Shclby- ville^ 20 miles from Middleton, where I stopped all night. Shelbyville is the capital of Shelby county, and contains 424 in- habitants. The country is fertile round it, and the town is improv- ing. They have no church ; but education is well attended to, and the people are civil and discreet. Several manufacturies are estab- lished, and tilling, principally of hemp and wool. Cotton and wool spinning Dy machinery are contemplated. The people here, and from hence to Louisville, are all clothed in home-made manu> factures. Land in the neighbourhood sells for 8 dollars. September 23d. I fell in here with a gentleman from Georgia^, and we agreed to travel together to Frankfort. We passed Clear ' creek at the end of the town, and took a near road through the woods, which," like the other original roads through this country, . winds along the top of a dry ridge. The morning was fine, and our journey very pleasant ; the country rich, and many of the farms well cultivated, lite foliage on the trees was beautifully tinted, and the choiristers of the forest delighted us witli their song. We passed several creeks, mostly dried up, and reached a tavern 13 miles from Shelbyville, romantically situated at the foot of a hill, with a creek winding along right before the house. Here we stop- ped to breakfast. After breakfast we travelled about a mile to Benson creek, which runs in a very deep valley, with steep limestone banks. We de- scended into this valley, and travelled through a very romantic country, crossing the creek several times in. our progress, and 4t 1 . o'clock reached Frankfort, the capital of Kentucky, 6 miles from where we stopped to breakfast. I immediately waited on colcmd Greenup, the late govnaor, to ^'i: \ 'h „»»» >'•> -l- 4 398 ^ TRAVIU IK whom I had a letter of introductoii, and lie very politely carried me to see every thiiif; of coniequence in the town. 'I'he state-house lA a baiiddunic edifice of stone, and the apartments are convenient for transacting the public business. The penitentiary is somewhat upon the plan of the state-prison of Philadelphia, and is under such excellent management that the institution 8up|)orts itself by a judi- cious application of the labour of the convicts. They were at this time 34 in number. Various mechanical branches )vere carried on ; but the convicts wore mostly employed in sawing^ marble in the o-^ pen yard. Here, one worthy wah pointed out to ua whose offence was gouging. The law fur that offence is strictly put in execution, and is imprisonment for not less than 2, and not more than 10 years, with a fine of not more than 1000 dollars, of which two-thirds goes to die sufferer. That crime, we were iiiformed, is not now so com- mon 08 formerly, as a number of the quarrelsome miscreants have adopted the practice of btabbing, before noticed. The criminal code of this state hus been lately arranged on a new plan, ond is now con- sidered very judicious ; and this, together with the natural progress of civilization, will tend to purge the dross from Kentucky, and es- tablish her character among the other states for virtue and goo4 morals. Criminals of all descriptions are admitted, except those convicted of murder of the first degree,, which is punished with death. We saw some very handsome specimens of marble, from the banks of the Kentucky river. Many of the slabs were varie- gated with the impressions of leaves of trees, and one had the ex- act resemblance of a bird on it. From the penitentiary we passed to the cotton-bagging manufac* tory, and thenee to the river, where a chain bridge was building; but its progress was suspended for want of funds. The river here runs in a deep bed, with steep limestone banks, •nd is about 80 or 90 yards wide. It is navigable in freshets about flOO miles ; but the navigation is mixh obstructed, and very uncer- tain. It has its source at the south-east corner of the state, among the mountains. I ^nt the evening very much to my satisfaction, in company with governor Greenup, and by his assistance compiled materials lor the following short account of this place. Frankfort is situated in a small plain, with high land to the east, a pretty high hill to the north-east, and the Kentucky river bounds it «li^ other bides, rupning in the form of a half moon. It is neat- ly laid out are mostl; them han< The publ and a ban There on the riv but in coi have been niestic ma Two mam ed, and ai several cai C8 of mam of which c with a mai and, conn on a small Mechanic ing is ver) In thes A great m generally 1 waste of pi « the stuff as informa fair sex, wl the young attention that of gai is more th attending With a ed to estat subscribed the ladies ; of the mo company. A semii and anoth FK\ 4s, KtKTUCKY. • 399 ly laid out, the »trcct« crotsing one Another at right angtet, and t|iey arc moitly oil p«ved. It conaiitt of about 1 50 houws, the mo«t of them handitomely hiiilt with brick, and contains 1099 inhabitantn. The public buildings arc tlic sfntc^houao and penitentiary nforcnaid, and a bank. A thentn^ nnd chun h arc building. There is a considornhle commerce in the proiluce of the country on the rirer; and, (ill oi'latc, agreflt many English goods were sold ; but in consequence ol tb<' lour price of produce, the inhabitants have been obliged to make their own clothing, nnd u spirit for do* nieslic manufactures now prevails nniongst all classes of the people. Two manufactories of cotton-bngging liuve been recently establish- ed, and are doing well ; and two rope-walks, a tobacco factory, and several carding machines, arc also in operation. A number of branch- es of manufactures could be established here to advantage, the chief of which are beer and porter brewing, which must go hand in hand with a manufacture of glass bottles ; carding and spinning of cotton, and, connected with this, wire fur cards. A stocking manufactory on a small scale would succeed ; and there arc probably some others. Mechanics can make from one to two dollars per day, and board- ing is very low. In the state of society there is considerable room for improvement. A great many of the young men are addicted to gaming, a vice that generally leads to others of a more serious nature; but indeed the waste of precious time, which Dr. Franklin very appropriately tcroi# "the stuff that life is made of," is bad enough in itself. Howe\'er, as information begins to be amply diffused, patl'ticularly among the fair sex, who may be termed the sweeteners of life, it is to be hoped the young menvond the more advanced in years too, will bend their attention to virtuous industry, which has its certain reward ; while that of gaming is.not only precarious, but whatever is gained by it is more than lost to the possessor, being far outbalanced by the evils attending it With a view of correcting this vice, a number of citizens attempt- ed to establish a public library ; but it not succeeding, they have subscribed to build a theatre, in order to form an amusement for the ladies; presuming, I think, very correctly, that a number of the most virtuous of the gentlemen will be found in the ladies' company. • • A seminary has been erected for the instruction of yon ng ladies, and another for young men. -.„.<. «*'*&■* SEt» i > ' Ml '^ 4Q0 TRATILS IN The country round Frankfort is rough and hilly, and one can hardly visit the place without expressing surprise how th« citizens made choice of it for the seat of government, when there are so many situations, far more eligible and more central, in the state. September 24. My former truvelling companion, captain Ball, having come forward, we travelled- together to Versailles, 13 miles from Frankfort. The country for six miles is rough and stony, but there are some small tracts of good land in it. At the end of six miles we came to a very fine spring of pure water, issuing from the limestone rock. Beyond this the soil is very fine all the way to Versailles, which is situated in the midst of a charming country. Versailles is handsomely laid out, and contains 488 inhabitants. Several brick buildings were erecting, and the town appeared to be in a thriving state. There is a pretty good court-house in the town, and Woodford academy being situated in it, affords a good opportunity for the education of youth. The lands in the neighbourhood are exceedingly beautiful, and well cultivated ; the price of land round the town is from 10 to 20 dollars per acre. Provisions of every kind are very chep. The country here is generally healthy, but there has been a little sickness this season, owing to the great heat, this having been the hottest summer in the remembrance of the oldest inhabi- tants. -i';;r' : 'r^-.- ,.'•- .-. ■■ >■■/ ^, ,.^. • > \i^ i\u f.r.tlii- n,'' I left Versailles at 2 o'clock, and had a most agreeable ride of 13 miles to Lexington. The country was really beautiful, and the improvements, which have been nearly all madd within 20 years, present a most pleasing picture of the progress of society. Ther^ are finely cultivated fields, rich gardens, and elegant mansions, principally of brick, all the way. Land in the natural state ii easily cleared, tor, notwithstanding the richness of the soil; the timber i? mostly small and thin ; and there are few situations in >srl)Ich the price of wood will not pay for the clearing. 1 was pretty well prepared, by the previous information, for the view of Lexington, but it did exceed my expectations. The scitc of the town is agreeably uneven, with sufficient slopes to carry off the water. The streets are wide and airy, crossing one another at right angles ; and the buildings, being mostly all of brick, the whole is as hundsomo, as far as it extends, as Philadelphia; and t3)G country round is much handsolner than that round the latter ^VHiiV y.<. KENTUCKY. 401 city. As I passed along the streets 1 observed the people all busy, having a glow of health, and an animation in their faces, indica- tive of a healthy climate, and a plentiful country. I lodged at Postlethwaite's tav(?rn. \<. 1 CHAPTER LZXIX. Lexington, I FOUND myself at first in a singular dilemma here. I had resolved, at setting out, to pay particular attention to Lexington, and yet it so happened that I had not a letter of introduction to a person in the phiee, except to one gentleman, and he was from home. I had got very particular letters of introduction to gentle- men in Pittsburg and Louisville, who were well acquainted in Lexington ; and it was expected that I could have been furnished with letters from both, but i«fither of them were at llbme, and I was thus disapointed. Luckily, however, there were a number of Georgians in the town, and I fell in with an old acquaintance from Savannah. He intro. «<» * ' " Educ»- Perhaps TENNESSEK. 405 me emphatically, that the western country hod an English climate, but being n few degrees farther to the south than England, it was upon the whole a few degrees warmer, which wxu so much in favour of the country. CHAPTER LXXX. ' '^ Tennessee. , ' , 1 HIS being the southern extremity of my journey, I slially be- fore leaving Lexington, devcte a chapter to the state of TENNESSEE. This state is situated between 35** and SG" 30' north latitudes <^nd 4" 33' and IS** 23' west longitude. It is 420 miles long and 104p broad; containingan arctiof43,200sqHare miles, or27,648,000 acres. The state of Tennessee is marked by bold features, it is washed by the Mississippi on the west, and the fine rivers Tennessee and Cumberland pass through it by very serpentine courses. The western part is mostly level , the middle, like Kentucky, hilly but not mountainous ; the eastern part, known by the name of East Tennessee, is wholly among the mountains. These mountains are a continuation of the ridges which pass through the northern states, and are said to be very beautiful ; the country among them forming the most delightful residence of any in the state, in con- sequence of which it is rapidly settling. Besides the principal rivers already alluded to, there are a great number of lesser rivers and small streams, but they are all tributary to the Tennessee and Cumberland, except a few of no great length that run into the Mis> sissippi. None of the waters in this state run to the eastward, but the head w&ters of the Tennessee interlock with the rivers of Geor- gia, which determines the boundary between those states and Nortk Carolina to be the highest land in this part of the United States. Iron ore is found in abundance in this state, and a considerable part of the country is, like Kentucky, bedded on limestone.- Cop* pcras, alum, nitre, lead, and some silver have been found ; and pit-coal is supposed to be plenty through the state, but, owing to the quantity of wood, it is not much sought for. Sah* petrc is an article of commerce, and there are several salt-sprin|^ m 406 TBNMESSEF. s i which «upply the state with that necessary article. Some other mineral springs have been discovered. The soil is diflercnt in different parts of the country. In East Tennessee the land is good along the banks of the river, and in the valleys ; the mountains are poor in soil, but they afford good pasture for sheep and cattle. In the middle part, the soil is pretty similar to that in Kentucky, and the low lands in the western parts are composed of a rich black vegetable earth. The climate in East Tennessee, among the mountains, is de- lightful. The heats of summer are so tempered by the mountain air, that in point of climate this is among the most desirable resi- dences in all the United States. The middle part has a climate very similar to Kentucky, but, being farther to the south, it is warmer, and more congenial to the culture of cotton, and othe^ articles raised in the southern states. The western part being low, the air in summer is hot and moist, and the people are a good deal subject to fever and ague, and bilious fever, during the &1L Tennessee originally belonged to the state of North Carolina, and began to settle in 1765. In 1789 the territory was ceded by that state[[tothe United States ; and in 1796 itwas admitted into the union, and a state constitution was adopted. It sends two senators and three representatives to congress ; but, in consequence of the increase of population, the number of representatives will now be considerably increased. This state is divided into East and West Tennessee. East Tennes- see is only about one-fourth of the state, and is subdivided into 17 counties, containing 101,367inhabitant8, of whom 9,376 are slaves. West Tennessee is subdivided into 21 S^unties, containing 160,360 inhabitants, of whom 35,159 are skves; in all 261,727} being near- ly six to the square mile. The principal towns are Kmoxville, in East Tennessee, and Nashville, in West Tennesse. Knoxville is the seat of govern- ment, and contains about 1000 inhabitants. Nashville is situated on the Cumberland river, and is a place of considerable commerce particularly in dry goods, groceries, and cotton. There are a con- siderable number of smaller towns, but they are of no great impor- tance. The great business of the state is ag i( ulture. Cotton forms a sort of staple commodity, particularly in (he western part of tl)^ •tate. The other products are the same as io Kentucky* E* "*■ .■■s i'^*" .. wL^M i * * ^ k,K mt*3^m u. 'fi^-X^im,^ ■ -y^ forms a t of tho TENNESSEE. 407 The whole of the people throughout the state are clothed in dom meatic manufactures, which have been encouraged by premiumi from the legislature. I have not heard of any cotton manufacto- ries upon a large scale, but the subject will doubtless be attended to, as the cotton here is of a very superior quality, and being far 'from a market, it would be attended with great benefit to the state to fabricate it into difTerent sorts of goods, by machinery. The principal exports in West Tennessee are by the Mississippi to New Orleans, and consist of cotton, tobacco, flour, &c. From the east- ern part they carry considerable quantities of cattle to the Atlantic ports. Tennessee being principally settletl from the Carolines, Virginia, and Georgia, with a considerable number of New Englanders and foreigners, the state of society is much diversified. They are im- proving in civilization. Education is pretty generally attended to ; and there is little doubt but this will become a very interesting state. The people of this state having the example of the confusion which took place in Kentucky, about land titles, , before their eyes, adopt- ed a plan to prevent all diflicnlties on this subject, and it has been of great advantage to the state, as it has held out an inducement to many of the emigrants to pass over Kentucky and settle in it ; but, as the land laws in Kentucky will soon assume a secure form, this advantage will not be of long duration, and the principal increase of population hereafter is to be looked for from the Carolinas and Georgia. The genius of the people in the new states, may be gathered in part from a perusal of their state constitutions. Having nothing to clog their intellect on the subject of government, which is the most important of all earthly concerns, it may be fairly presumed that the constitution will embrace the sentiments of a considerable majority of the people. . ^ ,i ;u llie constitution of this state declares, that all power is in- herent in the people — that all men have a right to worship God according to the dictates of their consciences, and that no prefer- ence shall ever be given by law to any religious establishment — that elections shall be free and equal; — and that the trial by jury «hall remain inviolate. The government is legislative, executive, and judicial.— The le- gislature consists of representatives and senators, who are chosen fpr two years, and musi be possessed of 200 acres of land in the ' 1 k^: ;■• •I > r I t I; i ■; ■1 403 TRAVELS IN county for which they are chosen. The governor must be possess* ed of 500 acres of land, and is also elected for two years. All free males of 21 years of age, who pay taxef>, have a vote. The judi- ciary i» vested in such superior and inferior courts as the legislature may appoint ; the judges are appointepart. I was' urged to stay a few days longer, in order to be introduced to some of the leading men of the place; but I had a -long journey to perform, the season was advanciug, and every hour was precious. Finding me deaf to their hospi- table entreaties, a few of them told me they would accompany me as far as Paris, 22 miles distant. " Up higher yet, my bon- net," thinks I to myself; " this is really a contrast to the MtuatioU I was in the first evening I reached Lexington." We got all ready, and set out on horseback, five in number, on the 29th of September, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. The weather was clear and beautiful. The thermometer stoo perfectly healthy, and pretty well improv- ed. Land h worth 13 dollars per acre, and, if highly improved, it is worth 20 dollars. Unimproved land, 5 or 6 miles from town, is worth about 10 dollars. ' , ,. • .^ . . " , September 30th. This morning I rose early, and found there had been a little frost during the night, the first I have perceived this season. We had an early breakfast, and, parting with my friends with sentiments of mutual regard, I set out on my journey at 8 o'clock. The day was now clear, warm, and agreeable, and I enjoyed sweet meditation through this pleasant country. I pass- ed a creek at the end of the town, and found a number of settle- ments between it and Millersburg ; after passing which, the coun- try became very rough, and the soil poor, increasing in sterility until it is almost a barren. I reachsd Licking creek about 3 o'clock, and stopped for dinner at the house of Mr. Bollingal, a Scots- man, from Fifeshire. I intended to stop only a few minutes ; but Mr. Ballingal was not to be treated in that way by a countryman. He stripped my horse, and put it into the stable, and I was obliged to stay all night ; by which means I had an opportunity of examining the salt springs at the Blue Lick, situated at this place. The spring is very copious ; but it is so slightly impregnated with salt, that it requires 800 gallons to make a bushel ; whereas, at the Kanhaway springs, from 90 to 130 gallons make a bushel. On this account, the springs here are not now worth working, and Mr. Ballingal only kept the kettles at work until he could find other employment for his hands. The spring, however, has valuable medicinal qualities, and will probably become useful in a medical point of view. The water has been analyzed, and was found to contain (besides the salt) magnesia, sulphur, and fixed air ; but I did not learn in what proportions. It is, at present, much frequented by invalids. In descendsng the Ohio, I took notice of a certain Mr. Ashe^ whose book had come under my observation ; and I found it to be a representation so very difierent from the truth, that I began to conclude it was a fiction ; more especially as I could not trace the gentleman, although I had made several inquiries about him. Bat Mr. Ballingal told me he had break&sted at his house ; and to 52 ^ i , li^ • S^' r/ \ I r \ I ' r I -^m^ f 410 TRAVtLS IN' that circumstance his book is indel)te. ly one I intend to take of it. Such a work, indeed, is not worth a refutation, to those who know the country he travelled through; but the greater part of his readers will never huve an opjwrtunity of exomining and judging for tlicMiselves. By these it may be contended, that the remarks of Mr. Ashe are os likely to be cor- rect ns those which contradict them; but it is a fortunate circuin- stance for the cause of truth, that such writers us Mr. Ashe some, times draw conclusions, which time so wofuily belies, that they stand convicted of the most glaring incojisiafencies — I am almost tempted to call them by another name. Oa this state Mr. Ashe observes that ^* on the road from Paris to Lexington he found the country cultivated in tlie proportion of 1 to 1000." I found it cultivated in the proportion of 1 to 3; but it may be said I travelled a few years after Mr. Ashe, and a great part of tlio cultivation liod taken place in the interim. Be it so; but liow will that comport with the opin.on of Mr. Ashe, that Lex- ington would decline in populoXioH ? And what light does this au- thor stand in, when it is found that tlie state of Kentucky has nearly doubled her population in 10 years? in spite of the followuig sage remark : " Tlie stale of Kentucky is not likely to increase in popu- lation. I may even be nearer the truth in saying it wiU decrease, and rapidly, decline." Such an uncandid author does not disserve serious notice. I shall th( i -^fore simply interpose my opinion— ex. actly the opposite of Mr. Ashe : The state of Kentucky will in- crease, and rapidly improve. — We shall see ten years henee which is most correct. October 1st. I could not get away from my friendly host tiU past 10 o'clock. The ground after leaving th« salt lick is almost a perfect barren, and bare of trees : a circumstance occasioned, it is supposed, by the treading of the buflaloes going to drink the salt water. Seven miles from the spring I passed a good tavern, on a creek, where there is a mill ; and here the land improves, and the improvements increasje towards Washington, where I called on Mr. John Mackcr, another Scotsman, and he hospitably detained me all night. ' ' Mr. Macker, being iu the land business, gave me a great deal of information ; but it is principally antici])ated by what I have alrea- dy stated. He was well acquainted with the land laws, and gave me a particular account of tlie difficulty that had arisen in land ti- rN'l. I KENTUCKY. « II Ues ; but as all these are in a fair way of being o1 viatccl» it un- necessary to sMbmit them here in detail. _ Washington is the capital of Mason county, and is situated 4 miles from the Ohio river, in a high and rich country ; but so deplorably defective in water, that they have sometimes to carry it on carts from the Ohio. It consists principalJy of one wide street, and the hous- es, which arc mostly built of brick, are handsome. It contains 815 inhabilants, who are industrious and enterprising, a great propor* tJon of them being employed in agriculture. The public buildings are, a court-house, jail, and academy. There are several manu- factories of hemp. The lands round Washington are good, and well cultivated. The whole of Mason county, indeed, is good soil ; but it is more hilly than about Lexington, though the soil is equslly rich and fertile. Land in the neighbourhood of the town, under cultivation, sells nt from 10 to 15 dollars per acre. Through the country, uncleared lands average about 6 dollars. The town lots sell for about 100 dollars each, and the out-lots at 40 dollars per acre. October 2d. The morning being very pleasant, I started at 6 o'clock, and journeyed on to Limestone, 4 miles distent. Tlie soil is very good all the way, and the country being elevated, af- fords many line views. It has been noticed, that the Ohio river runs in a deep valley. On approaching it, I had a, delightful view of this beautiful stream, which I vever could behold widiout pleasing sensations. From the brow of the hill I descended about ^00 feet, when I reached Limestone. I stopped here some little time, during which I saw a gentleman from New York bound to New Orleans, by whom I sent a letter to my friend Mr. Kennedy; and, meeting with a countryman from Kentucky bound to Chillicothe, we agreed to travel together. But before we proceed on our journey, I shall take a review of the large and very Important state of Kentucky. '•■?'> ■; /,- -it' ■> \ .., ' i ,: ' ;,'':if ^'■'■'i, yi;- I. ' •'■ ■J ? -1 « »>- A CHAPTER LXXXIL ».t,i^ii;^ , - •, ' Kentucky, . . <; > ' • Is situated between 36" 30' and 39** north latitude, and 5' and 12" west longitude. Its greatest length is 328 milesj^ and ito V { •//: r?^i'^"\ -s... .*^4» :'*4 't-m^f- 4JS KBNTUCXr. If W .# . greatest br.ta(Ith 183. Its nrea is 40,110 square miles, or 9.5,610,^00 Acr^ ^ » The face of the country is generally utieven, some of it rough . ftnd hilly ; and towards the cast there are considerable spurs of the Allegany Mountains, which divide the state from Virginia. The • Ohio river washes the state to the north nnd north-west, 874 miles; and the Mississippi on the west 57 ; the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers pass partly through it. Big Sandy river forms the boundary line a considerable way on the east ; and Licking river, Kentucky river, Uolling river, and Green river are all very considerable streams. There is a vast variety of small streams, and the state lius the appearance of being well watered ; but in some places it is not. The stratum under the soil is limestone, throughout the whole state ; it has a great depth, and seems to be checquercd with innumerable fissures, which let the water pass. On this account, there are some places where water is not to be found in summer, and the greater part of the rivers have worn down their beds from 100 to 300 feet below the surface of the earth. From the circtim- stance of the rivers being so confined between high banks, they roll down their waters to a great depth in freshets ; it is no uncommon thing for the Kentucky river to rise from 40 to 50 feet* The state is said to be rather defective in iron, the most useful of all the metals : but there are, notwithstanding, numerous iron forges. Marble is found in the state, but is not plenty : coal is found in some places; and a few specimens of lead, copperas, and alum have been found ; limestone is a most plentiful commodity. There are various mineral springs, but the most useful are the salt ^rings; though they are now of less importance, since the dis- covery of the valuable salt-springs upon the Kunhaway. The soil in this state has all the gradations from the very best to the very worst, but there is, upcm the whole, a great body of good soil in the state. That part of it about Lexington has been already noticed ; and the notice of th« climate there will also con- vey an idea of it for the whole central part of the state. Towards the south and west it becomes more warm, to the north and east more cold ; the climate is, upon the whole, very agreeable. Virguiia once extended to the Ohio and Mississippi, and the territory of Kentucky then fourmed a part of that state. It was, however, unknown until 1 754, when it was first explored by James M'Bride. In 1769, colonel I^oone made further discoveries, aud X '-^""f^A.^ — ^. KINTVCfCY. 413 in 1 773 the first permanent settlement was made by him anil some others. In 1775 the Indian claim was purchased by treaty; in i 7<*i) Kentucky was, with consent of Virginia, fumicd into a sepa- rate state, and adopted a Ktatu conbtitution, wliich was rcvincd and amended in 1 ~9it. 'I'he state was aiiiiiittod into the union in 1792, and sends two senators and six representatives to congress ; the liiu er will now be nearly doubled, in consccjucncc uf the increase of population. The state is divided into 5i counties, and contains, by la^t census, 406,511 inhabitants, of whom 80,561 are slaves, and 1713 arc free persons of colour. In 1800, the population was 220,955, of whom 40,313 were slaves. The inhabitants have thus nearly doubled in 10 years, and now amount to about 11 per square mile. As the emi. If, I was OHIO. 419 Having finished our repast, wc resumed our journey, and trar yelled through a rich soil to West Union, 17 miles from the IS most delightfuL A brewer or a smith along with you will be a valuable acquisition. Each of these branches can be carrieour accounts about Greenock, you have tlie oss-half remaining, I think you will have a sufficiency ; and, upon the word of an honest man, I positively give it as my opinion, that, though you were to lay out every farthing of your money, if it brought you in health to your destination, you will be considerable gainers. I don't think it will suit Mr' ,/ h) % 420 TRAVELS IN Ohio river, nvhere we stopped all night, and had excellent ac- commodations. The scite of West Union was appropriated by the legislature of the state of Ohio, for the scat of justice for Adams county, and 110 acres of ground were purchased, at 8 dollars per acre. It was divided into streets, and lots of one third of an acre, and out lots of 2 acres ; with a reserve of 4 lots for the use of the /^ public building-, and one on a spring of fine water for an academy. The lots were resold at from 6 to 78 dollars each ; the out-lots for about 40 dollars each. The whole realized 3307 dollars, which, after defraying expenses, went into the county treasury. The town was laid out in 1804<, and now consists of 32 dwelling- houses and contains 224 inhabitants. The public buildings are a court-house, meeting house, jail, and school. There are 3 taverns and 3 stores. The town is principally composed of mechanics and their families, who are all doing well. Land in the ricighbourhood is generally good, and is m'cII water- ed, abounding in springs. .This is on the Virginia military tract, which continues all the way to Chillicothe ; and in which land, in the unimproved state, sells for about 2 dollars per acre. The country is all perfectly healthy, no instance having occur- red of bilious fever, or fever and ague. Four great state roads cen- tre at this place, which are a great accommodation to the inhabi- tants. We were informed, that 5 acres of land in the neighbour* hood produced 21 waggon loads of grain, and that provisions were plenty and reasonable ; beef, of an excellent quality, being at 2 dollars 50 cents per cwt. Boarding in taverns is 2 dollars per week. The country abounds in springs of good water, iron ore, and free-stone. Sheep have increased, and there is a good supply of wool, of which the inhabitants make a variety of domestic manu- factures. They also manufacture flax and cotton. October 3d. We set out on our journey at 6 o'clock; but, mis- men in your situation to lay out any of your money in speculation, upon trading articles; but you may consult with the merchants in Greenock. You must likewise observe to IiaTe the money'you bring into America changed into dollars or gold coin. Take cars and secure your liquor well, else the sailors will use it as a common stock. If any of you are skilled in music, a fiddle, or some such instrument, to raise the spirits, will be a valuable piece of furniture. Keep as much above deck as possible. I commend you all to tlie care of the God of Abraham, who went out not knowing whether ; and re* nun, dear bretlircn, ■. .,v: ^ ' ROBERT HAMILTON BISHOP -.* ^*l. ,*# ^ OHIO. 421 taking our road, we travelled several miles out of .our way, when vfe were put right by a countryman, who was taking his morning walk with a rifle in his hand. We found the country very rich ; tlie trees principally oak, walnut, poplar, and sugar -maple. Having regained the proper road, which we found a very good one, we travelled through a very beautiful country, to a branch of Brush creek, where the road forks ; that to the right hand winding up a pretty steep and high hill ; we took the left, and arrived to breakfast at the house of a family of the name of Allen, from Ar- magh, Ireland. From thence we travelled through a good soil, six miles, the next eight being rather light and sandy, to tho Sinking springs, so called from a large spring of pure water which rises and disappears several times, and finally issues from the brow of a hill. Here Mr. Heistant, a German, owns a fine farm, and keeps a tavern, and my fellow-traveller purchased a quantity of oats for the horses, on which, like the peach-brandy, he made a saving of 50 per cent. Two miles from IleistantflB we had dinner in the same style we had yesterday. I was quite pleased with the novelty of the thing, and my taste and that of my companion were well suited to each other. I could eat no fat pork, and he liked the fat best ; so he ate all the fat and I got all the lean ; and having drank out of the pure fountain of water, at which we halted, we resumed our jour- ney. We had not travelled far when we were joined by a new settler of the name of Smith, from Virginia, who told us he was in quest of some stray cows. He was a young man, newly married, and had purchased a farm of 100 acres, for two dollars per acre, on an unlimited credit, but he had to pay interest after the second year. Being without capital, he hires himself out part of his time, and clears a little of his own pro()erty as he can get it overtaken. In this way, I have no doubt but he will be very comfortaUy.fiitur ated on his farm of 100 acres, in the course of a few years. . \ After parting with Mr. Smitii, we passed over a pretty high hill, fi'om whence we had a rich view of great extent, but it was chec- quered by the trees, which detracted from the distinctness of vision, while it exhibited a greater variety. Having descended the hill, we passed through a fertile bottom, and reached Bainbridge, S8 miles from West Union, at dark, where we stopped all night. Baimbridge is quite a new town, consisting of 12 or 14 houacs >s. h , k n&t ^^ 'r- % . -KX^u^llW-. r 428 TliAVKLS IN only. The inliabitant5i are mostly from Pcnnsylvnnin, Kentucky, New England, and Ireland. Bottom land round this inells for nine dollars per aero ; the high lands arc from two to four dollar:;. October ^th, we set out at half past five o'clock, and having travelled a mile, came up with a Mr. Shelby, from Pickaway Plains; and as he was travelling the same road with us, we kept company, and I availed myself of the opportunity to procure some little in- formation regarding that district. He told me there was a good road on the east side of the Scioto, through the plains to Franklinton, round which there was a fine country, settling up rapidly. The plains are large meadows, without timber, having a rich soil, and are easy of cultivation. They have had some little bilious fever and fever and ague this summer, but the country was generally healthy. A road leads from Franklinton to Newark, through a level country, covered with beech wood, and is often muddy. The land is good all the way from the plains to Lake Erie, and on the banks of the lake, tibout Sandusky bay, is a fine fertile dnintry. We travelled through a tract of very rich bottom land, along the banks of Paint creek, seven miles, and a mile beyond this we came to a tavern on a rising ground, where we stopped to break* fast. Lands in the neighbourhood sell at six dollars per acre, and are settling very fast ; the country, however, is a little subject to fever and ugue ; but as the settlements progress, it will be drained, and become healthy. Li passing along we saw some new stone buildings, and having crossed the river Paint we ascended a pretty high hill, on the summit of which is a most elegant stone building, belonging to Col. M*Arthur. Having passed this we came in view of Chil- licodie, 18 miles fi'om Dainbridge, at which we arrived about mid- day, and I took up my lodgings at Buchanan's excellent tavern : my firiend pursued his journey towards Zanesville. A short time after I arrived the dinner bell rang, and I repaired to the dinner table, where I found 12 or 14 very respectable gen- tlemen seated, and there was a plentiful store of provisions. After dinner I took a walk through the town, and ascended a hill to the west, about 300 feet high, where I had a fine view of the improve^ ments, of the river, and of the surrounding country. In the evening I made the necessary inquiries for facilitating the business of the ensairig day. iSw^, jusinew # OHIO. CHAPTER LXXXIV. 4U ^-.. ii >V'. Chillicothef — Culllicothe disiricty — Virginia mUitnry lands, October 5th. I had by this time got ao much into the habit of pursuing my researches, that it became a source of real enjoy- ment, and I found the people so civil and discreet, and so well dis- posed to give information, that I felt^ no difficulty in applying to them, whether I had' a letter of introduction or not. I h^ nono to ChiU_:othc, and I did not feel the want of it. After an early breakfast I waited upon Mr. Spencer, at the United States land office, where I spent the greater part of the day ; and to that gentleman's politeness and attention I was princi- pally indebted for tiie information arranged under the respective heads in this chapter. Chillicotik: is situated on an extensive level plain, on the west bank of the Scioto river, which, by making a bend, bounds the town on the north, and the out-lots on the east. It is laid out on a pretty large scale, and a great number of out-lots are attached to it. The plan is regular, the streets crossing one another at right angles, and every square is divided into four parts by lanea crossing one another also at right angles, and at equal distances be- tween the streets. This must be a great advantage, as it gives the possessor of every lot a back entry. The streets are 66 feet wide, the alleys 16^; the lots contain four acres each. Chillicothe was one of the first settled towns in the state of Ohio, and was for a considerable time the seat of government; it now consists of about 250 houses, and contains 1 360 inhabitants, of whom 126 are free people of colour. The public buildings are a court-house, jail, academy, three churches, and a market-house. There are two rope walks, one cotton factory, one wool factory,, one nail factory, one pottery several distilleries, and four tan yards , and the^e are all thriving establishments. There are good mechanics in all the other branchr es calculated for the country. There are six taverns and 19 stores; and this is a very general market for the surplus produce of the country, consisting mostly of flour, of an excellent quality, pork, &c. Medianics, manufacturers, and labourers are all well paid, liav- ing from 75 cents to one dollar 50 cents per day, and such ia the I re tic more IV of the dol- iind vcnl, lufucture ton, and could be ;inia and arc but l>e sober icatiou is by no election ; all hard I, as can« vc interest " he is a no great )lic affairs le are in- say they The du- jrely com- ! by all the y and with truth, and ice of the se have the the north; ise on the ia military district by 145 miles, ibout SOOO n part, bc- ited States it is level arly all ap- OHio. <125 propriated to Agriculture, will soon be drained and healthy. It abounds witk springs of excellent water, and numerous rivulets. To the south of this runs a stripe of land about three miles broad, and 42 miles long, which was appropriated to the relief of tiuch as had to abandon their settlements in the time of the war, and take refuge in other places, and is thence called refugee land. It is also good land, but there is a large swamp in the middle of it, t>ctween Walnut creek, a branch of the iScioto, and Licking creek, a branch of the Muskingum. From thence to Chillicothe is an undulating country, abounding in hill and dale, and so continues to the Ohio, the hills increasing in size as tho country approaches that river. The soil is in general good throughout the whole tract, the best of it being along the Ohio and Scioto rivers, which for that reason has the greatest number of settlements ; but the whole is settling rapidly. There are large beds of limestone and freestone in the di&trict, and these are in« tersperscd with beds of clay, which retain the water, and this cir- cumstance gives the country n preference over Kentucky. Iron ere is plenty, and it is supposed the hills abound with coal. The whole is well watered, abounding in springs and small streams, having excellent situations for mill seats ; the Ohio washes it on the south, a distance of 60 miles ; and the Scioto washes it on the west its whole length. The Scioto is a very beautiful stream. It rises about GO miles to the north-west of thi« district, within a few miles of the Sandusky river, and pursuing a south-east course, passes the Indian boundary line, from whence it runs nearly a south direction, about 50 miles ; and at Frank- linton forms a junction with n fine stream called Whetstone river. South of this about 10 or 12 miles it receives the waters of Big Belly's creek, composed of Walnut creek and Alum creek, and thence runs nearly south, receiving, in its progress from the west, Derby creek. Deer creek, and Paint creek ; from the east. Low- er Walnut creek, Sippo creek, and Salt creek ; besides a great number of small streams ; and, thus augmented, it falls into the Ohio, 70 miles by water, and 45 by land, below Chillicothe. Tha river has a fine gentle current, throughout its whole course, and is navigable for keel* boats to Chillicothe, rnd for smaller crafl nearly to its source. There arc several mineral springs in the dis- trict ; the chief are a salt spring, and a sulphur spring, npt far from ChiUicothe. h r.^! V I ^ t'»|H 1^ 42G TRAVEM IN iil 1 1 This district is finely timbcrctl ; the principal kinds ere Oiik, hickory, nsh, Hu;;ar-niaple, clieitnut, honey-locust, walnut, ftc. i and the soil is kindly to the raising of fruits, vegetables, girain, and grass. Lund i!) very various in price, according to situation and quali- ty. The United States' lands are two dollars |)er acre, with four years to pay them; or if purchased for cash, 1 dollar 64 cnts. A good deal of the best of these are picked up, but many dcAJro' ble tracts yet remain; and from the uiiqueriti(mable Hccurity of tlte land-titles, ihcy generally meet with a (Treference. The bot- tom lands are nearly all engrossed by individuals, and arc resold as high as they can. The average price for uncleared land, in the bottoms, is about five or six dollars per acre. Farms of land, partly improved, are constantly in the market, at from two to six dollars, according to the quality of the soil, and the value of the improvements. Horses sell for 40 to 80 dollars; cows 10 to 12 dollars; sheep 2 dollars each. This district contains part of 10 counties, and the inhabitants may be estimated at about 30,000, w^ho have all settled here with- in 25 years ; a,nd the population is likely to increase very fast, par- ticularly on the banks of the Scioto, where the seat of government will be ultimately fixed, the site of it being on the east side of the river, nearly opposite to Franklinton. The lands in this district are rated, in the state books^ nearly as follows, whence some idea may be formed of the soil : in 100 parts, 4 are of Ist rate, 52 2d rate, and 44 3d rate : but it is to be observed thai this gives only a relative idea, for a great deal of the third rate land, in the state of Ohio, would be reckoned first rate in some other places. A general remark may also be made, that the occupiers of land, purtrculurly non-residents, holding lurge tracts, will, in order to save the land-tux, probably in their returns make as much of the land second and third rate, as they consistently can. Fii'st rate land pays a tax of I dollar 20 cents, per 100 acres; second rate I dollar; and third rate 60 cents. '■■ ^ Although the aver.iije price of lan»l may be quoted at 2 dollars^ aiKl some as high as 10 or 12 dolla •«, yet some districts of hilly land could be purchased tor half a dollar an acre, and probably one of the boit businesses iiv all tht country would be sheep-larm- hf jng in such districts, connected with the manufbcturc of WooUein yarn and cloth. /:v -^a!*WiRr< pnio. , 4S7 On the Virginia military lands my obscrrationi ahall be ihortt because a great muny of thoie made on the Chillicothe district ap- plie« also to tliem, and there are certain general remarks that will be more appropriate in the general account of the state of OhiOk This tract is bounded by the Indian boundary line on the north, by the Ohio on the south, by tlie Cincinnati district and Symmcs's purchase on the west, and by the Cliillicothc district on the cast. It is about 180 miles long, and nearly 60 broad; and contains up- wards of 6000 M]uare miles, or nearly 4,000,000 of acres. The face of the country, soil, and timber are very nearly assi* milated to those in the Chillicothe district. There are a ^reat vari«ty of small streams, and desirable situations for mill-seats. The principal settlers are from Virginia, Kentucky, Pennsyl- vania, and Jersey; the inhabilants amount to about 48,000, and src rapidly increasing in number, in wealth, and improvements. By tlie state books, this district appears to be 4 per ccnU*, bout 10,000 acres, is as level as a bowling-green ; and it is bound- ed on the west, north-west, and south-east by pr«tty high hills, from whence there are charming views. The Scioto is a clear strcam,about 200 yards broad, with a gravelly bottom, and abounds with fish^ sp that it is both useful and ornamental to the town. ■ ! i>( i - CHAPTER LXXXV. >, Leave ChillicotJiej — New Lancaster^ — Sjjring fields — ZanesvilU. October eth. I left ChilUcothe at e o'clock. The morning was foggy and cool. The river was low, and I forded it about knee deep. On reaching the north bank, 1 passed through a fine bottom, the property of Mr. Zane, of Wheeling, to be after- wards noticed. Here the dew was so hecvy, that the lofty tree* shook their pearly drops over me like a shower of rain. About half/, mile from the river, the country rises by a gradual ascent, and the road continues good to Keneconek creek, a beautiful clear stream, which falls into the Scioto seven or eight miles above Chillicothe. There are some excellept fl9ur-mills upon it, and if*' "" '^^^^'■•■- mmm irtmr^ V^\ HIB travels Aw iron ore has been found dn its banks. Nine miles from Chillicoth^) I stopped at a small tavern to breakfast. • - ■< ' v Here the landlord informed me he had moved from Kentucky^ and liked this country better, principally on account of the free- dom from slavery, and the security of his land- title. To the busi- ness of farming a small piece of land, he added that of teaching a school and keeping a tavern, by which means he makes a com- fortable subsistence for his family ; and I have no doubt but he will do very well. He informed me that this part of the country was very healthy, and his rosy children bore testimony to the truth of the remark. After breakfast, I passed through a number of small plains or prairies, quite bare of trees, and generally about a quarter of a mile broad ; and, passing a branch of Salt creek, I arrived at Tarl- ton, a small place, consisting of 12 or 13 houses only. Here I fell in with a Scots bookseller, from New York, who told me he had been at Cincinnati looking out for n settlement ; we agreed to travel together to Zanesville. The settlers at Tarlton are mostly Germans. The salt-works, on Salt creek, are eight miles below this place ; the country round is fertile, and th<; climate healthy. Leaving Tarlton, we passed through a low rich country, with small swampy prairies, and not very thickly settled, to a tavern, seven miles from New Lancaster ; and here we fell in with two more travellers, going to the eastward. From hence the country gets more elevated, the woods are principally black and white oak, and the small streams and springs are very abundant. We passed a stream called Clear creek, and, as we approached New Lancaster, we observed a number of small hills, some of them rocky, but the soil good in the bottoms. At the west side of the town, we passed over a swampy meadow, by a very good turn- pike road, on which we paid a toll of 6| cents, at a wooden bridge erected over the Hockhocking river, here a very small stream. Beyond this, the town is handsomely situated on a plain; we passed to the east end of it, and took up our lodgings for the ni^ht at a very good tavern. New Lancaster is a handsome Nttle town, in the centre of Fair- field county, of which it is the capital. It was laid out 11 or 12 years ago, and has been mostly settled by emigrants from Lan- CMter, Pennsylvania, who gave it its name; but the greater part /Of the late settlers are from New England. It is regularly laid ■^^, JA.. - !^4g;il3*" *«y ■- _*ir»T ' ♦ OHIO. 4!2^ ciiit) the streets crosung one another at right angles; the princi> pal buildings are upon one broud street. It is divided into lots of S2 feet front, by 164 deep, which sell for about SCO dollars. The town now consists of about 100 houses, containing 350 in- habitants ; the public buildings are a court-house and market-house; end there are nine taverns and 1 1 stores. The greater part of the inhabitants are mechaMcs. The price of labour is about the same as at Chillicothe. Provisions are rea- sonable; flour about 2 dollars 25 cents per cwt.; beef 4 cents per lb, and other articles in proportion. The state of society is here very good; the people are sober itnd industrious, and the laws well administered. Education u properly attended to, and this has a chance to bcdomea very ex- cellent settlement* The country round New Lancaster is healthy, and the soil generally good. There is coal seven miles from hence on tho waters of Rush creek, and freestone and limestone not far off; and there is iron ore at the falls of the Hockhocking, 18 miles below, at which the proprietor is about to establish iron works. Hockhocking river rises a little above this, and, being augment- ed by many small streams, pursues a very winding course to the south-eastward, and falls into the Ohio, after running a course, including its windifl'.gs, of nearly 100 miles. This river is navi- gable to the falls about 70 miles from its outlet. These falls are five feet high, and are a fine situation for mill-seats, and well im- proved. There are many mills above the falls ; among others, a paper«mill nine miles from this place. The banks of the river are pretty well settled from its outlet to Athens, but from thenc6 to within 8 or 10 miles of New Lancaster, the country is rough* and the settleipents thin. . r October 7. Another gentlemen travelling to the eastward join- ed us at New Lancaster, and we bet out, five in number, thil morning at 6 o'clock. Two miles from New Lancaster, we pass- ed a very elegant brick house, built by John Baldwin, who has a , fine farm, beside a rivulet of pure water. In our progress wt passed a great many such rivulets, all supplied with very pUre water, and we w^ere told they were fed by springs, and never dried up; which must be of great advantage to this part of the coun- try. Water is always to be found of a good quality, by dig|pu|g 12 or 14 feet. ' ,» <^ "- . 'j- " ^. I > \i ^^' ''J^^'^ ito k 490 TKAVXLS IN We stopped at a good tavern to breakfast, 12 miles from New Lancaster, where we were |old that the whole of the townsliip was good, and so much improved that the «chool section, was leased, tor 56 dollars per annum. The money arising from it was divided among those who sent their children to school, in proportion to the number sent. - From hence we rode about 14 miles to Jonathan creek, throush a country agreeably uneven, rather hilly, indeed, having an ex- cellent soil for wheat ; the principal timber is oak, hickory, wal- nut, and chesnut. Jonathan creek, along which we travelled some way, is a beautiful little stream, with freestone banks, and a- bounding with mill-scats, coal, and iron ore ; and the whole country round was really beautiful, the view being enlivened by the radiant beams of the sun on a very fine evening. We travelled on through a rich valley, and passing through Springfield, a handsome place, mostly built on one street, we £}rded the Muskingum about knee deep, th^ current very rapid> the bottom fine gravel, and the breadth abpijit 150 yards. W^ arrived at Zlanesville about s\m-set, , , . , -. '^■"' -,.; 'i CHAPTER LXXXVI. f:i Zanesville — Zanemlle distrkf. Dr. STANBERY, of New York,, was the first person whom I heard mention Zanesville, in the course of my inquiries in the spring of tliis year ; I had, however, heard a good deal of it after- wards, and expected to find it a pretty little place. But it cer- tainly did exceed my expectations. I found « large thriving town, with a great number of handsome brick houses, the buildings going rapidly on ; and every thing wearing a flourishing aspect. The ground around it was well cleared, the neighbouring hills were getting into a state of cultivationj mills were erecting, and bridges, banks, and manufactures were projected. The situation too^ for all these projects, appeared fav9urable. The Muskingum river is navigable to this place, and beyond it, to near its head, from wlience there is a communication with lake Erie, by a s;naU pprtage. There are fine falls at Zanesville, and mills may be erect- ed to almost an unlimited extent. Licking creek pours its wa- wvm' .pi ' * :!^-A^' * \ I t •'* OHIO. • 4^\ ten into the Muskingum by a cascade opposite the town, and af- fords also a fine situntion for mill-seats, while it forms a very a- greeable. pro8}icct. The banks of these rivers abound with excel- lent soil, timber, coal, limestone, and iron ore ; and the great state road from Pittbburg to Kentucky passes through the town. '< This must certainly become a fine situation for manufactures." Such were my first impressions on viewing Zanesville, and I resolved to spend some days there, to procure information and make remarks ; in doing which I met with every assistance from its friendly inhabitants. I had letters to two gentlemen in Zanes- ville, and they introduced me to many others, who greatly facili- tated my in({uiries; I«hall condense the result of my observations into this chapter. Zanesville is situated on the Muskingum river, about 64 miles from the Ohio by land, and from 70 to 80 by water; in north latitude 39° J8', west longitude from Washington *• 50'. ■The scite of the town occupies a mile square, and extends to both sides of the river ; but all the buildings yet erected are on the east side, where the town is neatly laid out by streets and lanes, cross- ing one another at right angles like Chillicothe. The building lots are 132 feet deep, by 66 feet in front, making one-fifth of an acre and sell for from 100 to 1000 dollars. There are a number of out-lots of five acres each, and they sell for from 100 to 200 dol- lars an acre. . ^ The improven^ents in Zanesville commenced in the year ISO*. Five years afterwards it contained 92 houses, and 600 inhabitants; it now contains about 250 houses, and upwards of 1200 inhabi- tants. The whole township contains 2154>. Many of the houses, are built of brick, and a few of stone. The public buildings are, a court-house, occupied also as a state-house, a jail, and a land* bffice. There is no church, but one is about to be built, and a ptoposition has also been made to build a bridge over the Mus- kingum, and to establish u bank.* The town i.s supplied by ex- cellent water from pump-wells, which are generally about 45 feet deep, but probably at no very distant {jeriod they will get a supply of spring water from the hill^ to the eastward of the town, which have a sufficient elevation to send it to the tops of the IiilM)- est houses. '^.ri- K-:n^> ■.-.■' n* ' ■ . ".s^-- • n-^ ■ -- i 'i '. '4 ^1 '4 i p * The legislature at the last cession passed acts to build a bridge and to incoriiorate * bank. Murray^ Uinpcr, rdrinati & Co. ktcly iinisiicd thu piatoN for tJjc r«utr«. *■ 'A W^» ^^— » o^ J L i: ^f 432 TBAVELS llH Zancsville is a place of considerable trade ; it lias 1 1 tatenu, ftnd 1 1 stores ; and the following professions are exercised : masons and stone-cutters, brick •makers, carpenters, '"Qbinet-mak«rs, smiths, clock and watch-makers, tanners, curriers, saddlers, boot and shoe-makers, butchers, bakers, hatters, taylors, printers, rope- makers, potters, and painters. The price of labour is nearly the same all over the western country : a common labourer has 75 cents per day, brick -makers have 5 dollars per 1000 for bricks, and 2 dollars 50 cents for laying. Stone-cutters and carpenters work at the Philadelphia prices. Other trades have about one dollar per day. The markets are favourable to tradesmen and labourers. House- rent may be quoted at 36 to 50 dollars per annum ; coals 5^ cents per bushel, delivered ; wood 1 dollar per cord, delivered ; flour 4 dollars per barrel ; meal 33 cents per cwt. ; potatoes 25 cents per bushel; turnips 12^: other vegetables plenty and cheap. Beef, mutton, and veal 3 to 4< cents })er lb. ; pork 2 dollars 50 cents per cwt : bacon 10 cents per lb.; venison 25 per ham ; fowls 6^ each; ducks 12ttles ; beer and porter. The materials for all these are abun- dant, or can be easily procured. Cotton is brought from Tenne»» lee at from four to five cents per lb. Shee]), both of the coinmoo and Merino breed, thrive remarkably well, and are getting very plenty. Hemp grows luxuriantly on the river bottoms; iron is plenty every where through the counti'y ; every material for mak- ing glass is on the spot. Grain is very cheap ; and hops grov spontaneously. There is a spirit to entourage domestic manufactures among the inhabitants, and any niHiiufucture that is calculated f )r the place* and well conducted, i;: ccitain to succeed. ; ? •« t.*? viv^J (' In point of commerce, Zancsville is likely to become a consider- able place. The banks oi' the Muskingum and its waters upward ure settling rapidly ; aod the quantity of produce that will come fc :i 1 I tavcma, masons -maksrs, ersjboot Ts, rope- early the < 75 cents :s, and 2 work at ' per day. , House- s' cents ; flour 4 cents per [). Beef, cents per 6 J each ; per lb.; >r gallon ; >hel; fifth . to 2 dol- here to -spinning am, and ind glasg re abun- i Tennes* coiTimoa ting very i ; iron is for niak- jps grow niong the ;he place* consider- s upward viU come : OHIO. 433 down the rifer wUi enerease every year. At present, almost the only article of surplus produce is flour, of which the price has been quoted. Other articles are raised in abundance, but the great influx of emigrants consumes nearly the whole. ' The inhabitants uf Zanesville are very mixed. About half are probably from Pennsylvania, and the remainder are principally from the New England states and Virginia. There are few fo- reigners. They are quiet and moral in their deportment, and are pretty well informed. There is no public seminary of education estaUished as yet, but it is presumed an academy will soon be built ; and there is a good opening for a scientific teacher. The educa- tion of young ladies has not been neglected; a female seminary was about to be established by two ladies from Baltimore. There are several conunon schools, and the fund for the support of thia important branch of education is very ample ; but as it applies to the whole state, it will be noticed hereafter. The police of the town is at present on the same footing as the ether townships, under the management of trustees ; but it was in- tended to apply for a charter of incorporation, and, if it is incor- porated* it will, of course, be under the direction of mayor, alder'* men, &c. a;, . • Zanesville district is bounded north by Canton district, south by the Ohio company's purchase, east by Steubenville and Mari- etta districts, and west by Chillicothe district. Its length, fr-jm south to north, is about 72 miles; its breadth is about 50 miles; and its area about 3,600 square miles, or 2,304,000 acres. Upwards of two-thirds of this district is occupied by the army lands, and a small portion is refugee lands. The face of the coun* try is beautifully diversified. To the south, along the Muskingum, the hills are pretty high and rough; to the north the surface is agreeably uneven, with some pretty high hills : to the north-west it is more level. The soil is various, but a great portion of it is good ; the bottoms on the rivers are very rich, and the hills are generally covered with a strong mould, which answers well for wheat The district stands, in the state books, about 4 per cent, of first rate ; 40 per cent, of second rate ; and 56 per cent, of third rate land. The whole is abundantly supplied with freestone, limestone, iron ore, and inexhaustible beds of coal. The district is remarkably well watered. The Muskingum r^ns through it from one extremity to the other. This beautiful river 55. • ' ', II 434 THAVEL8' IN merits particular notice. It rise» in a small lake on tlie bornidarjr line of the Connecticut reserve, and passing into that district, it runs vrest about 14> miles ; and from tltence to the Cayahogan river, which falls into lake Erie, there is a portage of only seven or eight miles. From thence it bends to the south, and, running nearly a south direction, about 60 miles, receives in its progress, besides a num- ber of" small streams, Sandy creek, Gutgatsink creek. Sugar ci'eek, and Stillwater creek. From Stillwater, it runs nearly a vrestern course to Coshocton, where it forms a junction with White Woman's creek. To this junction it bears the name of the Tusca- rawas branch, but it is now known by the general name of Mus- kingum. From Coshocton to Zanesville is SO miles by land, but the river course is about 40, in a direction a little west of south, and it receives two considerable streams by the way, "W'Ah creek and Wakatomika. At Zanesville it receives Licking creek, and, between this and ihe Ohio, it is augmented by a vast number of small streams. Its confluence with the Ohio was noticed at page 344. Some of its tributary streams are very large. White Wo* man's creek is composed of Killbuc'. i creek, Mohecan, John's ereek, and Owl creek, which, with their head waters, cover a vast ti'act of country ; and Wills creek and Licking creek are both very consideraUe streams. The greater part of the water»of this river are fed by springs, which unquestionably contribute much to thebealth and comfort of the inhabitants; and the river is, incon- sequence, generally clear, and the water excellent. The natural timber is very fine, and of great variety. The chief kind& may be noticed : oak, walnut, hickory, cherry, sugar- maple, poplar, elm, ash, sycamore, honey-locust, &c. Fruit-trees of every kind thrive remarkably well : peach trees, raised from the •tone, bear fruit in three years. Grain, grass, and vegetablcK, are raised in abundance. Tlie climate is healthy and agreeable. People from the eastern states say that the summers are not so oppressive as in Vermont and Massachusetts, while the winters are generally so mild, that cattle mostly graze In the field . The spring commences about the 15th of Mtucli, and gardening begins about the 1st of |April, which iti generally a very pleasant month ; but there are often a few days of cold stormy .ather about the beginning of May. The warm weather commences about the middle of May, and qentiuucs till about the middle of September, being wiu'mest a- I'**---'- 1 I OHIO. 4d& bout the beginning of June ; but the heat is mcderate. There it no thermometer kept at Zanesville; but so far as I could judge, it appeared thaE the extremity of the summer heat seldom exceeded 80^. The fall weather is temperate, dry, and beautiful ; and continues till about tbe middle of December. The winters are very changeable, and subject to a great deal of rain. Ex- cept in the neighbourhood of ponds and "ndraincd marshes, which are few, the country is very healthy. About Zanesville it is particularly so ; and as there are no swamps nor ponds, but what can be drained, the district will become, I think, one of the most desirable in the United States. It is little more than 12 years since this district began to set- tle, and it now contains about 20,000 inhabitants. The people are very mixed. The greater part are from Pennsylvania, and the remainder mostly from Virginia, Maryland, Jersey, and New England. There are few foreigners. They are generally civil, discreet, and industrious. . The ^r&t business of lite, in a new country, being clearing of land, Uttle attention can be paid to edu- cation or science for some time. In the towns, there are some sci- entific njen, principally of the medical profession ; and there is a pretty general disposition to give the children instruction ; but a good dc«l hfis yet to be done to make this important subject at- tended to in the way it ought to be. People are to be found here of all the different persuasions in religion ; but none have any pe- culiar privileges, so that they have nothing of that kind to qnar- rel about ; and all live in Christian charity. There is a news- paper established at Zanesville; and as they get numerous others bjr mail, they are all well informed on the subject of politics. Every maq, woman, t^nd child, almost, read the newspapers ; and they express their opinions freely, An election took place while I was at Zanesville, and it was conducted with the greatest har- mony imaginahlct Each voter handed in a slip of paper containing the names of the candidates of his choice : it was deposited in a ballot'box, and the name of the voter w^s recorded. The polls were kept open from 10 till 4 o'clock, when all the votes were counted, and the candidates who had the greatest number were declared to be duly elected. I was told that the election was general throughout the state, on the same day, between the same hours, and that there was a poll in every township. This I consider a wise regulation* It is of great consequence, in a # '■p sk'S ♦ 496 TRAVKLS IN popular government, that the sentimenti of the people be fairly •kpressed ; and this can be done in no way so completely as by small districts, in which the citizens can transact the whole business in a few hours ; and, being few in number, and all known to each other, the whole is conducted without tumult or noise, or any of those disgraceful scenes which often attend elections on a large scale. Agriculture is, of course, the great business of a new country ; so that farmers, and such mechanics as contribute to the support of that important brunch, are the best adapted to the country ; but I have no doubt that manufactures will flourish, although I think it may be prudent for such manufacturers only to go there as have capitals to carry on the business, and such workmen as are specially written for. The disposition to encourage manu- factures is sufficiently obvious, and there are some of the inhabi- tants who would even support a useful undertaking by pecuniary nid ; but the greater part of the capital in this country is ves- ted in new lands as fast as it is accumulated ; and there being a constant drain upon the specie capital, by payments to the U- nited States government, there is very little capital to spare for other objects. Very considerable progress has been made in constructing roads, and in other internal improvements. The price of land is various, according to situation and qua- Kty. The United States lands here are the same as in other .- ( ( 438 TRAVELS IN of the obstacles which impeded the progress of manufactures have been removed or lessened. Tlie cheapness of provisions had al- ways, to a certain extent, counterbalanced the high price of manual labour ; and this is now, in many important branches, nearly superseded by the introduction of machinery. A great A- mcrican capital has been acquired during the last 20 years; and the injurious violation of the neutral commerce of the United States, by forcing industry and capital into other channels, have broken inveterate habits, and given a general impulse, to which must be ascribed the great increase of manufactures during the last two years." The first remark that presents itself is, that, in our reasonings upon this subject, we are extremely apt to associate with it the idea of the miseries to be found in the workshops of Europe. But I think the association is incorrect. In Europe, particularly in those quarters of it under the operation of the feudal system, ** manulkctures are resorted to, of necessity, to support the sur- plus of their people." For the sale of the commodities manu- factured they are dependent on foreign markets. The work- ing people can seldom acquire any capital, they are obliged to ply from morning till night for a bare existence, and are subject tq all the contingencies of a foreign export trade. Hence they ar^ seldom even in comfortable circumstances; when the foreign trade fails, their misery is often extreme. But the case is entirely different in the United States. Here every class is on an equal footing, and every branch of internal industry will naturally find its level. Manufactures wUl oply flourish so far as^ey are on a level with other branches, and the workmen employed in them must be as well paid, as those em- ployed in agriculture ; in consequence of which we may fairly pre- sume thatthey will be equally virtuous, intelligent, and indepen- dent with the other members of the community. In a country where the government is exercised by the people, it is to be presumed that the state of society which is most conducive to internal independence is the best. A popular government can re- gulate the internal concerns of the country in a manner the best calculated to promote the public good : but they have no controul over foreign nations, and, so far as they are linked to them by trad^ foreign nations may controul them. I should think, therefore^ that the state of society which jb the most independent is thi^ OHIO. * 439 which can supply the greatest number of its wants at home. That the manufactures of America will increase until they be equal to a supply of the demand at home, I have no doubt, and to that ex- tent they would be perfectly congenial with the practice of virtue. It is only when the produce is so great that they depend upon a foreign market for a vent of the surplus, that they become perni- cious. That manufactures and the mechanical arts are not in themselves hurtful to a community, is obvious from many considetations. Among others, a very bright example may be referred to in the Harmonist Society. They not only supply all their wants within themselves, but they sell annually a large portion of their manu- factures to their neighbours ; yet we find that neither the orga- nization of manufactures, nor the exercise of the mechanical arts, have at all tended to hurt their morals, or to interfere with their prosperity. On the contrary, they are probably the most virtu- ous society on the face of the earth, and they are flourishing be- yond all example. The plain reason is, that they are all on an equal footing at home, and are not dependent on any person a- broad. They can regulate their own affairs in their own way. And it does not follow that in the prosecution of manufactures and the mechanical arts, if confined to a supply of the internal con- ramption of the country, " one-half of the people are taken away from agriculture." I have not the means of calculating the pro- portion that will be necessary, but I observe that even in Britain, where they are so completely dependent upon foreign markets, it is nearly as one and seven-tenths to two : the agriculturists being estimated at 2,000,000, and the mechanics nnd manufacturers at 1,730,000. In the Harmonist Society, the agriculturists are 103, mechanics 66, manufacturers 63 ; but the society have adopted the principle to raise no grain for sale, and to vest the whole of their surplus labour in manufactured articles for the country. By the report before alluded to (see page 277,) it app«»rs that the A- merican manufactures exceed 1 20,000,000 dollars, and the imports amount to about 30,000,000 dollars ; so that the addition of one- fourth to the manufacturing class would perfect the system; but such is the proportion of labour that can be saved by machinery, that it is presumed, if it were fairly applied, the additional hands wanted would be much less tlian one-fourth, and not at all tio nany as would, make a sensible diminution in the ranks of th« ■'■'!^. I 440 TtiAVlLS IN agriculturisti. T have else where remarked^ '•^ that in every community there nre a great number of the members who are bet- ter calculated for labour in the house than in the field." I may add here, that in proportion to the increase of manufactures in the country, will the fanner have a demand for his surplus pro- duce at home, and be less dependent on a foreign market ; and It appears that he can be better accommodated, generally, with home-made articles, us they are more substantial in the fabric, and can be adapted with greater facility to tho tafitc of the wearer, than foreign manufactures. • ^ „• , These remarks apply with peculiar force to the western eouutry, where the produce is far from a market, and where materials for manufactures arc &o abundant. CHAPTER LXXXVII. ; ■'■a'i. '' Leave Zancsvillfi — Coahoctony — Nrjo Philadelphia^ — Canton, October ISth. I set out from Zanesvllle at 8 o'clock in the morning. I crossed the Muskingum by a boat, and travelled near the west bonk, through a good tract of Innd, but little culti- vated. At 10, I passed over a pretty high hill, where I had a fine view, and, through a country agreeably diversified. I reach- ed Wakatomika creek, 15 miles from Zancsville. The land along the Muskingum would make very desirable farms, if cut into sec- tions, having a quarter of a mile along the river, and one mile back. At Wakatomika I saw a large flock of sheep, with some raerinoes among them, and was informed the> belonged to a Mr. Adams, who had been very successful in sheep-farming. The tiver bank» are here fertile and beautiful ; and, on the west bank, there are large and fertile bottoms. I travelled along these, close by the river, about z miles, when I passed a methodist roeeting'house. The Uearers amounted to about 30 or 40 only ; but the preacher was heading forth as if he had been addressing as many thousands. He was literally roaring. A little beyond this, I stopped at a tavern to feed ray horse, and was told the family was from Vir- ginia, and liked this place remarkably well. / a. . The bottoms continue 6 or 7 miles along the river, and are in- terspersed with several little openings, tlie work, no doubt, c& • OHIO. • 4U the Indian tribes^ now no more in thi» place. About 6 miles from the taverO) I paiied over some of the river-hills, rough, steep, and stony ; and thence descended into a rich bottom. Here I met a family in u vfttfiff}n, travelling to New Lancn'^ter, nnd they very civilly gave me information ns to the best piuto- of crossing the river. I obeyed their directions, and cruHscd over where they had done with their waggon. The river was here a beautiful stream, about 1 30 yards wide, above kneenleop, with a Hnc san- dy bottom. Along the east bank there is a beautiful plain of very rich land, 4 or 5 miles to Coshocton, at the confluence of White Woman's creek and Tuscarawa river, and, having reached it, I stopped all night. Coshocton is tlie seat of justice of Coshocton county, ond is quite a new place, containing about 140 inhabitants. It is a little sub- ject to fever and ague ; but the unheulthincss will be but tempo- rary. This situation is beautiful, and the country round it is rich, abounding in coal, limestone and freestone. The timber is oak, chesnut, walnut, 8cc. ; and the woods abound with sassafras. A great deal of stock is raised here for the eastern market. The country is so favourable, that cattle, to the value of 2100 dollars, has been raised and sold off 90 acres of land ; and 4500 bushels of corn have been raised on 80 acres in one year. October 14th. As [ was preparing for my journey, I fell in with a Scotsman from Edinburgh, and we had a little conversation about Atdd Reekie. The morning was damp and foggy. I rode about a mile through the bottom, and could trace the cause of the fever und ague, in a number of little ponds which stand undrained in the meadow. The road passes over pretty high hills, about 5 miles, and then descends into a rich plain, in which, however, there are but few settlements, and the people look sickly. At 10 miles from Coshocton, I came to a small tavern, where 1 .stopped to breakfast. As I proposed to ride to New Philadelphia, 36 miles from Co- shocton, and the road was altogether new to me, and often cross- ed the river, I was anxious to be gone as soon as posaiblc, and urged the landlady to make all the haste she could. She said she would have the breakfast ready in a minute ; but the first indica- tion I saw of despatch was a preparation to twist the necks of two chickens. I told her to stop, and she gave me a look of astonish- ment. « Have you any eggs ?" said I. " Yei*, plenty," replied 56 442 TUAVF.LS IN she, still keeping in a stooping posture, with the chicken in her hand. " Well," said I, " just boil an egg, and let me have it, with a little bread and ten, and that will save you and I a great deal of trouble." She seemed <|uite embarrassed, and said she never could set down a breakfast to me like that. I assurefl her I would takfe nothing else. " Shall 1 fry some ham for you along with the eggs ?" said she. " No," said I, « not a bit." « Well, will you take a little stewed pork ?" « No," said I. « Shall I make some fritters for you ?" " No." ** Preserve me, what will you take, then ?" " A little bread, and tea, and an egg." " Well, you're the most extraordinary man that I ever saw ; but I can't set down a table that way." I saw that 1 was only to lose time by contesting the matter farther; so I allowed her to follow her own plan as to the cooking, assuring her that I would take mine as to eating. She detained me about half an hour, and at last placed upon the table a profusion of ham, eggs, fritters, bread, butter, and some excellent tea. All the time I was at breakfast, she kept pressing me to eat; but I kept my own counsel, and touched none of the dishes, except the bread, tea, and an egg. She aHected great surprize, and when I paid her the ordinary fare, a quarter of a dollar, she said it was hardly worth any thing. I mention this circumstance to show the kind hos- pitality of the landlady, and the good living enjoyed by the back- woods people. -•' About a mile from the tavern, I passed a school, and thence through fertile bottoms, bounded by pretty high hills, well calcula- ted for sheep grazing. At half past 111 crossed the river, which was above knee deep, and about 80 yards wide, with a fine gra- velly bottom. At 12 o'clock 1 passed through New Comer's town, and travelled about half an hour through pretty extensive plains. 1 then a< sink creek, and the road runs right along its banks, where thia whole country is really beautiful ; but as we proceeded in our course the bottom on which we travelled became narrow and stony. We passed the river by a fine ford, about 60 yards wide, as usual about knee deep, and a gravelly bottom. This is the seventh time that I forded this river since I left Zanesville, and I always found nearly the same result — qlear water, knee deep, and gravelly bot- tom; and 1 have no hesitation in pronouncing it-the most beautiftil river 1 ever saw, except the Ohio ; and the scenery on its banks is even more beautiful than on the Ohio. This is a very fine coun- try, and will, in my opinion, become the seat of most extensive and thriving settlements. After crossing the river we called at the house of a Dutch farmer, who told us he had settled here 10 years ago, at which time there was no house between him and Gnadenhutten, and there are now numerous settlements ; a proof of the rapidity with which this country is settling up. We travelled along a fertile plain on the river's bank, bounded with pretty high land on our right, for four miles, and stopped at a Dutch tavern to breakfast. The Dutch people make excellent settlers in a new country, they are a plodding, slow, sure-footed, sober race; and have an excellent knack at finding out the rich places. The only foe they have to encounter is the ague ; but they seem to be used to it, as the fisherwoman's eels were to skinning.. They don't mind a shake. One of the women here, a great long, lank, leathern- necked huesy, as yellow as an orange, was chattering in a cor- ner like a pair of castanets ; but the rest of the females were suf- ficiently active,* though, blessed be the maker, they were " nae temptation." However they gave us an excellent breakfast, for which we cheerfully paid our quarter of a dollar each, and de- parted. II OltlO. 445 the river excellent B for sale. ), and he the lake, tisfaction, e said the re water, isiderable Gutgat- vhere the id in our and stony, as usual enth time ays found ivelly bot- t beautiful banks is fine coun- extensive a Dutch at which tten, and >idity with g a fertile nd on our breakfast. country. 1 have an only foe e used to on't mind leathern- : in a cor- were suf- ere "nae kfast, for , aud^«- > A few miles from thence we crossed Sandy creel, where it forms the junction with the Tuscarawa. It is here a considerable stream, nearly as large as the Tuscarawa itself. To the west are extensive prairies, and the view along them is uncommonly ele* gant After crossing tlie river we took a bye path which led us over a range of hills, some of them so steep that we could hardly sit on our horses; and aoout two miles from Sandy river we fell into the main road, wl?ere the German left me, and I jogged on alone towards (Canton, now nine miles distant. On getting over the hilly district, the road passes through a tract of wet, muddy l^nd ; the soil is ricli, and heavily timbered, but the road very bad ; and this continues to within two miles of Canton, where the country opens out into a very extensive prairie. Along this I rode a little way, when I passed a branch of Nimshilen creek, which I forded about knee deep. There I passed through a small stripe of wood, and entering the prairie on the east side of it, I had a view of Canton, finely situated in the open plain, and reach- ed it at three o'clock. CHAPTER LXXXVIII. CantoTif-— Canton districty-^Connecticut reserve^ — Cleveland, fj ANTON is the seat of justice for Stark county, and is situated in latitude 40° 48', about 100 miles from Pittsburg, and nearly 409 from Philadelphia. It is regularly laid out in streets and lots. The streets are from 80 to 100 feet wide, crossing one another at right angles, and there is a square in the centre. The lots are about 250 in number and 66 feet in front by 198 deep, being near one-third of an acre, and they sell for from 50 to 300 dollars. Canton was laid out about five years ago, and now consists of 80 dwelling-houses, four taverns, and nine stores. The number of inhabitants is about 250. There are no public buildings. The kihabitants are composed of farmers and mechanics, and are mostly from Pennsylvania. No manufactures have yet been established except in families, but these are general ; and there are a number of mills in the neighbourhood, and several wool carding machines. Sheep thrive remarkably well in the neighbourhood, and it is presumed a manufacture of coarse woollens would succeed^ .^'*'- I y ') I >] '4 ■ ;i?-5: ^i ( If ,5 )l 44$ TRAVELS IK 1; i? ; The price of labdur is nearly the same as at Zancsvil'le , common labourers have 50 cents per d»y and found, masons, carpenters, iJcc, one dollar per duy. The great influx of n^w settlers consume all the surplus pre visions, except stock ; which is sent to a market At I1iila i -a ( • ^.i >! ^ ^v. The climate is pretty healthy. Some few cases of fever and ague occur, but they are not very common. Canton District was lately purchased from the Indians, and extends from the Tuscarawa river about 68 miles to the westward) and from the Connecticut reservation to the north boundary of Zanesville and Chillicothe districts, its average breadth bein^ 28 miles. Its area is about 1800 square miles, or 1,152,000 acres. The district is nearly all level, and fit for cultivation, but it is in many parts very muddy, a circumstance common in the districts situated on the head waters of the rivers in this state. On this ac- count it is difficult to make good roads, and it requires a pretty thick population to drain the country, and make it agreeable ; but there is a sufficient descent for carrying off the water, and this will be a very desirable country some time hence. It is abundantly supplied with springs, and streams of pure water. There is a great deal of prairie or meadow land interspersed through it. The principal timber is walnut, poplar, ash, elm, oak, sugar maple, and hickory. The soil is well adapted to the culture of grain, grass, tobacco, hemp, &c. This district is settling up mostly by people from Pennsylvania. It is divit^led into two counties ; but the population is yet very thin, and is principally confined to the banks of the rivers. Very fa- vourable purchases could at present be made in the district. The greater part of the land is, of course, in the hands of the United States government. The price has been noticed before. The land- office is at Canton. October 16th. Last evening the weather was very warm, with a south wind, and thick dense clouds. Towards nine o'clock it cleared up, but the sky was heavy, and indicated rain. The comet was to be seen with an uncommonly long tail. In the morning it became suddenly cool, and it rained violently till about 1 1 o'clock. I was anxious to move on ; but I could not complain, for this was the only detention I met with from the weather, except half an hour on the Ohio, in a journey of 1500i miles. At 12 o'clock it cleared cow, ;:;:V'' ' ♦ ■ ottio. H7 Dp, and having met with a travelling companion going to Spring- field) in the Connecticut reservation, we set out together. We travelled about a mile through the open plain, when we en- tered the woods, but the trees were not thick. Six miles from Caiiton we passed a branch of Numshilcn creek, where a saw-mill is erecjted, the property of a Mr. Everhart ; and about a mile fur- ther we came to a very muddy road, through a thick wood, where we met with a sudden alarm» In the course of our journey the weather had assumed a settled aspects and the sun occasionally peeped through the clouds ; but now the sky was suddenly overcast, and it began to rain. We took shelter below a large tree. In a few minutes we heard a noise like distant thunder, and it continued to approach us. It was the effect of the wind on the woods, whicii reaching us brought down a limb from a tree in our neighbourhood with a crash. We left our position, and moved on wnrd as &st as a road, which nearly took our horses to the knees, would allow us. The storm increased — the wind raged — limbs cracked, and the lenves of trees flew about in all directions, darkening the air in their flight : the woods rung with the falling of trees ; and, to com- plete the alarm, a whole tree was blown down with dreadful vio- lence clo$e by us. We were for a few moments rivetted to the spot ; but our alarm soon subsided — it was now a dead calm — all was as silent as the grave, and nothing of the squall remained but its ex- traordinary effects on the woods. -. , (>.'-,,.. We moved on, and came to a little clerving, and a small cabin, where we proposed taking shelter ; but the people giving it as their opinion that the storm was over, we went on to a tavern 1 miles from Canton. The family informed us that they had moved from Maryland, and were of German origin ; they could still speak German, although their grandfather had left his native country 60 or 70 years ago. , ..:.., After leaving the tavern about a mile, we saw a tent pitched in the woods a little ofi' the roud, and turned aside to make inquiries. This was an emigrant family, consisting of a man, his wife, and two children. They had travelled far in quest of a settlement, and their means being exhausted, they were obliged to stop short at this place, "where tliey meant to sit down and clear and cultivate a piece of land. In the language of the country, they were sqttatters. The only visible substance tliey had, wax a tent, a waggon, a horse, a fow, and some bedding. The tent and bedding had been drench- — --•~-:jr,-.„ 448 TRAVBLS IS )* ed by the rain, but they had a large fire before the door, at which the bedding was hung up to dry, and they sat round it apparently very contented. Little do those who live in cities know of the hard- ships to be endured by those who subdue and settle the wilderness ! and yet perhaps the life of the latter is most to be envied ; they are free from all care except that of providing for their families, and the real wants of a family are easily supplied ; they have no credit to support nor bills to pay ; and they can train up their chil« dren in the paths of virtue and of industry, far removed from the evil example of the wicked ; no artificial circumstance stands be^ twcen them and their maker : they can behold the bounty of his providence in theirflocks, and herds, and in the fields around them ; they can work their daily task, confident of a reward ; and, bless- ing the God of mercies, they can repose their heads on the pillow, and enjoy a sweet sleep, the reward of rational labour, and a good conscience. A ITttle beyond this encampment the country becomes ridgy and barren ; we travelled a mile, when we crossed the Tuscarawa, by a wooden bridge. This is now the eighth time that I have crossed this river since leaving Zancsville. Here it is a small stream, quite covered with brushwood, and its source is in a small lake, a few miles to the eastward. We now entered into the Connecticut ReseiTa- tion, at the 41st degree of latitude, and this being the dividing ridge between the northern and southern waters, the same train of reflec- tions occurred as on the top of the Allegany mountains (see page 306.) On a shower of rain falling here, part of it finds its way to the ocean at New Orleans, and part at thegulf of St. Lawrence, dis- tant upwards of 200Q miles. After passing the ridge we came into a fine open plain of fertile land, in which were a great many fields of wheat, and about the inidde of it my fellow traveller and I parted. At the end of this plain the road winds to the westward, through pretty thick woods, in which I travelled about three miles, and coming to a small open- ing, I stoppedibr the night at the house of a Mr. Bradley. Mr. Bradley told me he moved from the north-west corner of Connecticut to Canfield, 35 miles to the eastward, and two years ago he had removed to this place. This township is called Spring- field, and has settled up pretty fast within a few years ; it now con- tains 24 families. It has been tolerably healthy this season ; but some of the adjoining townships have been very much afflicted with irt- OHIO. 449 It ivhicfa parently he hard- derne8» ! id; they families, have no heir chiU from the :ands be- ity of hi» ind them ; nd) bless- be pillow, nd a good ridgy and rawa, by a ve crossed earn, quite a few miles t Reserva- jding ridge n of reflec- (see page its way to rence, dis- in of fertile about the end of this ick woods, mall open- >'• f it corner oi two years ed Spring- it now con- eason; but flictcd wiih fever Mid ague. There u a number of tracts of good land in tlw town, and it is favourable for raising ail torts of small grain, grass, and vegetables. Pumpkins grow to an enormous size, and the people live a good deal upon pumpkin pies. Mr. Bradley has a thriving family of siit sons and one daughter. Tb^ Wve quite the Connecticut appearance. They say they like this country very well. October 17. I set out from Mr. Bradley's at half past 6 o'clock; the morning was clear, with a little frost. Having travelled about three miles, through a muddy road, I crossed the south branch of the Cayahoga river by a wooden bridge. It is here a dull black stream, covered with brushwood. The north bank rises by a gen- tie elevation, and is capable of cultivation ; but it is poor land. I was now tn Tamage township ; the country is very thfnly settled, and the road deplorably bad. Having passed through Tamage five miles, I entered into Stow, and soon ailer crossed the main branch ines3 was to haul salt, &c. from Cleveland, on the lake, to the portage on the Tuscaiawa, and that the dis* tance was about 42 miles. He hud been out in the rain all yesterday, and was out in the frost all night without a fire, or the means of making one. A few miles from where we met we reached a settlement on Tinker's creek, where we stopped all night. Tinker's creek has its risa beyond the town of Hudson, and !i^'»^ r't*'»\s .^►^to-^:^" — Hi About s id turning ttle settle- I e there is k healthy, answered, le road as- ood road:; ea of mud Getting lere I saw black tur- ) the creek hoga river t township road I had tlement at lere I stop- encountec- to the road d. I men- y informa* ^rees worse ne in with lain, out 5 Dm Cham- s, — a long ve a beau- ace of de»- waggoner, Cleveland, at the dis« he rain all jfire, or the ive met we stopped all tdson, and OHIO. ^ . 451 i» here a considerable stream, running in a deep valley, where it drives several mills. It falls into the Cayahoga river, a little be- low where we s-topped. • . , The landlord was from home, and the family were ill provided. They had no bread, nor wherewithal to make it ; they had no beef, and no sugar ; but they had some bad tea, bad potatoes, nnd pork such as I have seen in North Carolina. They made a sort of non-descript dish, by stewing u few slices of potatoes with the pork, and served it up, swimming in butler. It put me in mind of Burns' ., •.; ^. • ,, .; •"■•■• ,'■■■•'• . ■■' ' " Olio that would staw a sow." . However, my fellow-traveller, the salt-hauler, made a very hear- ty meal; and I took a liitle,and but a little of it, albeit I had got no dinner, and had a pretty good appetite. Some milk came in from the cows, of which I partook freely, and an obliging Rhode Islander, who lodged at the house, favoured me with a little whiskey and water, which I found a real cordial. The night was very cold, and the kitchen, which contained die only fire in the house, being ill secured against it, I retired to bed in an adjoining room. As I dreaded the effects of the cold, r threw my own clothes over the bed-clothes, and, noticing a pane but of one of the windows, I shoved an empty bag into it, and retired to rest. ' October 18th, I awoke early this morning, shivering with cold, and wished it might soon be day-light, that I might depart from this uncomfortable place. At last day dawned, and I was not long in perceiving the light, for it poured in upon me in all directions, pei^endicularly, diagonally, and laterally. The house was literally like a riddle, and there was an opening almost close by my bed-side, that would have let in a horse. When I looked I'ound, and perceived so many openings, I could not but laugh at my precaution of last night, in stopping up the broken window ; where, however, I allowed the bag to remain, as an admonition to the people to repair the house before winter. At half past 6 I set out towards Cleveland, now 12 miles dis- tant. I ascended from the creek by a pretty sleep path, from whence I travelled a few miles to another creek, having a fall of about 80 feet| and handsome free-stone bunks. I saw some mills, *» ■ ,^■6** ''^■^Z \ 46t TRAVMLI III but dicy were idle, and appeared to be going to decay. The country appeared poor, and the people sickly. From Canton to this place, the travelling had been fiir from agreeable ; the roads were muddy, and often deep ; and the coun- try was one dull plain, without a single object to exhilarate the imngination, or cheer the spirits ; and latterly the people looked pale and sickly. But I was buoyed up with the anticipation of the beauties of Lake Elrie, to which I posted with all the alacrity of impatience. I noticed, as I went along, that the country on the bank» of the Cayahoga river were improved; the road led by a high bank, from whence there was a fine view to the westward ; the bottoms on the river were extensive ond fertile ; though I ob- served tlie seeds of disease in its slow, sluggish, winding course, choked up with a vast quantity of vegetable matter undergoing de- composition; and at every settlement I passed, the pale, sickly visages of the inhabitants confirmed the remark. At last. Lake Erie appeared, with a beautiful, blue, placid siuface, checkering through the trees. I reached Cleveland ; but, without stopping to examine the city, I rode on to the bank, where, from an emi- nence about 70 feet high, 1 beheld the lake in all its glory. To the northward, no land was to be seen ; and to the east and west, the banks were high, and the scenery very picturesque; the view was really sublime. I was delighted with it ; and, full of the pleasing sensations which such a view was calculated to excite, I pursued my wny to the tavern. But, O ! what a contrast was there I the people looked pale, sickly, and dejected. I learned that they had been afflicted with a very severe sickness this sea- son. It was periodical, they said, and generally fever and ague ; but this season it had been worse than usual, and accompanied with some very severe cases of bilious fever. I found that this had proved a complete check upon the improvement of Cleveland, which, though dignified with the name of a city, remain^ a pal- try village, containing a few houses only. ':>i^- < > ^fmSi^*^: y. Th» far from he coun> irate the looked pation of lacrity of ntry on led by a cstward ; gti I ob> ; coune, {oitig de- sickly ist, Lake leckcring stopping an emi< jry. To uid weit, the view ill of the excite, I itrast was I learned this sea- Aid ague i oinpanied t this had !)teyeland, ^ apal- OHIO* *» •* »,i:»yp im f •»•'< 451 •»■• '4 OHIO. 455 the state of Ohio. The subject dcaerve* legiiiliillvc attention, and merits the particular notice of those gentlcincu mIio ure rctti- dents, or proprietors of the htnds, in the Connecticut reservation. Tlie founders of Cleveland have, no doubt, been impreHscd with the belief that it would be a place of great importance, and it haa been noticed that it it dignified with the title of a city, although it contains only 16 dwelling-houses, '2 taverns, 2 stores und 1 school. There is a little trade in salt, and sometimes a little in flour, pork, and whiskey ; but the whole is trifling, and will con« tinuc so, until a harbour be formed. Should that be done, it may in time command a pretty extensive trade. The country at present has no flour nor provisions to spare : they ore nil taken up by the emigrants who yearly pour into it. Wheat was 1 dollar per bushel, rye 75 cents, oats 37^, potatatoes 50, flour 7 dollars per barrel, beef 3 dollars 50 cents per cwt., mutton and veul S to 6 cents per 11}., pork 5 dollars per cwt., cheese (good Hudson) 10 cents per lb., butter 12^, whiskey, 50 cents per gallon, cyder 7 dollnrs per barrel, salt 1 dollar 20 cents per cwt. Fish are very plenty in the lake, and white flsh are put in barrels at 10 dollars per barrel ; horses sell from 50 to 100 dollars, cows 20 to 25 dollars, sheep 2 dollars 50 cents. Boarding at a tavern is 3 dol- lars per week. October 1 9th. This morning I set out, accompanied by Mr. Strong, to visit Rocky river, distant about seven miles to the westward. We crossed the Cayahoga river by a flat. The land to the westward was level, and the road muddy, but the soil is pretty good, and is capable of being drained; having a gentle slope to the lake. The woods are mostly white oak, chesnut, and beech. About three miles from Cleveland, we passed a road which led to Columbia, from whence we saw some travellers, and they informed us that it had been very sickly this season. We saw no settlements all the way to Rocky river, but there is one at its outlet, on a^high bank, the settlers on which were sickly. We found a general idea prevailing here, that the whole coun- try was sickly between these two rivers. Rocky river, like Cayahoga river, has Iiigh banks, and Itn mouth is shut up by the north-west winds on the lake, whij:li cause the water to stagnate, and, until means be devised to obviate this inconvenience, the country, at its outlet, must be unhealthy. There were no settlements along its banks upwards, from whicli ue t iff I • s I \i ! '■N:.^-'::>^-;*rr*r"--«%.^ •*W>"' w :m 456 TltAVllLS IN could draw a conclusion ; biit I should iniagim^ from its app«ar> ance, that it would be more healthy than Cayahoga river. A small vessel had put in here, with a &mily, bound upward to Sandusky bay, to wait a fair wind ; and one of the children was taken sick last night, but had got a little better this morning. On our return, we met two men on horseback, who told us they were settled five miles to the westward of Rocky river, and the country there was quite healthy and well settled. One of them was from Massachusetts, and said he liked this country much better than his native state, chiefly on account of the mild winters. The morning had been warm, rather sultry, indeed, with a south wind. On our return to Cleveland, I perceived all the signs of an approaching storm. About 3 o'clock, the wind shifted tu the north-west, and a violent gale commenced, accompanied with rain, thunder, and lightning. The weather became very cold for about half an hour : but the storm spent its force ; the wind regain- ed its old position ; and the temperature of the air was restored to near its former state. It rained very heavily all the afiernooon and evening. October 20th. On getting up this morning, I found the weather very cold. The wind was blowing a gale from the north-west, accompanied by ruin, and occasionally sleet and snow. The lake exhibited all the appearances of the ocean in a storm, and the river was so dammed up, that it ovei-flowed its bank& We were inform- ed that some of the traders on the lake would be in great jeopardy, particularly two vessels that were bound for the port of Cleveland, and had been several times in the oflkig, without being able to make a landing. It was supposed they would be driven back to Buffulo, 200 miles distant, at the east end of the lake. A numbei of mechanics called r.t the tavern, on their way to Sandusky bay, t>) which there had been a great emigration the two last seasons. The detention at Cleveland afforded me an opportunity of con- versing with a number of people well acquainted with the Connec. ticut reservation, the lake, the banks of the lake to the westward, and Michigan territory. Before I resume the narrative of the journey, therefore, I shall devote a couple of chapters to these subjects. ' i V r. upward to Idren was ling. Id us they and the ? of them try imich d winters. h1, with a I the signs shifted to nied with y cold for id regain- estored to ilernooon le weather orth-west, The lake 1 the river re inform- jeopardy, rieveland, \g able to I back to \ numbei usky bay, masons, y of con- ; Connec. ivestward) ve of the to these ■,r_'»» ..... ' r . . OHIO. CHAPTER XC. 457 Connecticut Reserve^ — Lake Erie^ — General Information. The Connecticut Western Reservation is bounded by Lake Erie on the north ; by Steubenville and Canton Districts on the south: by Pennsylvania on the east; and by a line drawn through the middle of Sandusky bay on the west. It is in length about 122 miles, its'average breadth about 45 ; and its area is about SS+Q square miles, or 3,4-23,360 acres. The face of the country is generally level, in some places nearly flat, and in others swelling out into gentle hills, of which the great- est is the ridge that divides the waters of the lakes from those of the Mississippi. To the south of these is a gentle descent towards the Ohio, and in the tract to the north, which is by tar the great- est, there is a similar descent towards Lake Erie. The soil is generally loam intermixed with «lay, and sometimes with gravel. Very little of it can be called the best, but it is nearly all lit for cultivation, and it answers well for grazing ; it also raises grain, vegetables, and fruit, in abundance. In the state books it stands, six per cent, second rate, and 94 per cent, third rate land. There are considerable beds of freestone throughout the district, and coal and iron are also found, but in no great abundance; though several iron-works are in operation, and it is presumed that a pli ti- tiful supply of both could be found if properly sought for. It is most beautifully watered on the north by the lake, and there are a number of very useful rivers, of which those that emp- ty into the lake will be noticed hereafter. The principal stream that runs to the south is Beaver creek, a very important one, which drives a great quantity of machinery. The whole district is well supplied with springs of good water, and there are several salt springs, sulphur springs, and one of a bituminous substance, that burns like oil. The principal timber is oak, chesnut, beech, maple, walnut, hickory, sycamore, and in some places pine ; but the last is not common here, and is hardly to be found any where else in the state. The climate is temperate, and the seasons arc nearly assimi- lated to others already noticed in the state ; but there is a circum- stance which appears to me to render the country here not so heal- 58 Wn: -II *Hf», 458 TRAVELS IN li \ i I' m '■.1 ■ ill! tliy as that further south. The prevailing winds are from the south, particularly in summer and fall, and these, as they blow over the high lands of Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia, are clear and clastic in all the southern part of the state, which is hilly and undu- lating. Towards the head waters of the rivers, however, the country becomes flat and marshy, in some few places, indeed, swanrpy, and the south winds reach this district loaded with the effluvia arising from these marshes and swamps. The effect pro- duced is greatest about the Cayahoga river, opposite to which the lands at the head waters are most flat ; towards the west they get more elevated, and the elevation is greater still to the eastward ; and tliis may in part account for the fever being more common in Portage county and Cayahoga county, than any where else in the district. But a consolatory remark may be made to the inhabi- tants of these districts : the occasional sickness will be but tempo- rary, and never very fatal. There are no marshes or swamps but what may and will be drained, when the country is settled up; and the whole will then be a very fine climate, and a most agreea- ble place of residence. The claim of Connecticut to this territory was founded upon the cliarter of the state, granted b" king Charles II. of England, in 1G62; which defined their boundaries to be the line of Massachu- sets on the north, Narragansel-bay on the east, and thence 120 miles broad to the South Sea. This was interpreted to be the Pa- cific Ocean, and of course included a part of the state of New York, a considerable portion of Pennsylvania, and thence along the now state of Ohio and the territories to the westward. The state of New York resisted the claim, and succeeded. In Pennsyl- vania a number of settlements were made under Connecticut titles, which occasioned a dispute, that was referred to congress, and by tfiom to commissioners, who reported against the Connecticut claim. To the westward Connecticut yielded her claim to the United States, vviili the exception of the territory in question, which being accepted by congress, the matter was settled. In 1793 the Ic.fislature granted 500,000 acres of the western part of it to iudemniiy the s'lffcrers by fire during tjie war, and this tract '' is called the Fire lands. In 1 795 thev sold the remainder to OH- ver Phelps and others, for 1, '200,000 dollars ; which is appropriat- ed to the support of schools within the state. The purchasers ol the lands made a division of the property, and the settlements com- •.^.^^ti«ftf*3„,-1 OHIO. 459 menced a short time after, and have been going on pretty rapidly since the year 1799, by emigration from the New England states, principally from the''state of Connecticut. The district is now divid- ed into six counties, and contains 1G,04>2 inhabitants. The people have generally the frugal, industrious habits of the New England states, and are civil in their manners, and moral in their deport- ment. Education is generally attended to, and they seem also to be religious, although the thin state of society does not admit of many churches or clergy. As to civil jurisprudence, the state of Connec- ticut seems to have given a tone to it in this district, which has probably had considerable influence throughout the state. The people of Connecticut luive been accused of cncoaraging a litigious disposition, and of being fond of having all their disputes, even the most trivial, settled according to law. I'ere, on the contrary, they seem inclined to avoid all law, and all litigation ; and have imbibed perhaps an unreasonable aversion to lawyers ; which I have seen manifested in some of the newspapers by opprobx'ious epithets, such as " lawyers a begging," and the like. The law is a pro- fession open to all, and many bad members of society no doubt get into it ; — when they do, they have a superior opportunity of committing mischief. But all lawyers are not to be reckoned of this class, and the profession should not be stigmatized for the improper conduct of some of its members. The study of the laws of the land is one of the most useful and ornamental professions in society, and such lawyers as conscientiously practise it are an honour to their country, and to human nature. There are as yet but few villages in this district. Warren is the chief, and it is but a small place. The houses are mostly of wood a great part of them indeed being log houses ; but they will no doubt improve with the settlement of the country. The agriculturalists ai'e mostly occu[)icd in raising supplies for the internal consumption of the inhabitants, who manufacturi! near- ly all their own clothing, in their respective families, so that there is little commerce: the chiel' trade is in salt, and a few ornamen- tal ini})orted goods. The principal expcjrts are cattle and cheese. Hence farmers and mechanics are best adapted to the country, and the price of land is suindcntly low to invite them into it j being a- bout from two to lour dollars per acre. Lake Erie is nearly 300 miles long; opposite Cleveland it is about 60 miles broad ; to the eastward it is above 70 ;— the average '.- I 4¥^' ■, ( A' 460 TRAVELS IN breadth is from 50 to 60 miles. Its average depth is from 40 to 1 20 feet. The water is pure and wholesome, and abounds with fish, such as sturgeon, white-fish, trout, perch, &c. The lake does not freeze in the middle, but is frequently frozen on both sides; and sometimes in winter, when the winds are variable, the ice ex- hibits a singular phenomenon. A south wind blows all to the Can- ada shore, and a north wind again dislodges it and brings it all back to the American side. There are a number of islands in the west end of the lake, containing from 800 to 2000 acres of land, and the soil is said to be generally good. These islands are settUng up, some of them very rapidly, and are found to be very healthy and agreeable places of residence. They are handsome and well wood- ed, and some of them afford a good retreat for the vessels on the lakes in stormy weather. This and the other lakes are navigated by vessels of from 70 to 80 tons, which carry goods and provisions up the lakes as far as the head of Lake Superior, and bring back furs and peltry. The na- vigation is good to the head of Lake Superior, except in Lake St. Clair, where the water is shallow, and vessels are sometimes oblig- ed to lighten. The principal ports on the American side are Michilimackinac, Detroit, Miami, Sandusky, Cayahoga, Grand River, Presque Isle, anil Buffalo. On the British side, Maiden, consiting of 100 houses, Moyes, Sandwich, and St. Joseph's. The Americans have 1 brig, 8 schooners, and 4 sloops ; and the British 1 brig, 5 schooners, and 2 vessels of war. One of them, the Queen Charlotte, was built last summer, in expectation of a war, and carries 1 8 guns. These hikes admit of the most extensive inland navigation in the world. The stages of it upwards, from hence, may be thus noticed: to Sandusky buy 57 miles ; thence to Miami bay 45 ; to Maiden 45 ; to Detroit 1 8 ; to Lake St. Clair 1 1 ; through Lake St. Clair 40 ; through Huron rivtr 40 ; through Lake Huron to Michilimac- kinac straits 190; thence to Lake Superior 100 ; and through Lake Su[)crior upwards of 300 miles ; being in that direction about 836 miles. Then lake Michigan is navigable, from the straits down- wards, yOO miles, and from thence there are two portages, already noticed, to the Mississippi river ; after passing which there is a com- plete navigation to New Orleans. Fron? this lake there are 4 port- ages to the Ohio river, of which one has been noticed ; the others -n OHIO. 461 are through the Miami of the lakes and Wabash ; through San- dusky river (Uid the Great Miami ; and from Presqne Isle to French creek, a branch of the Allegany. The navigation downward is by the following stages : to Grand river 30 miles ; thence to Presque Isle 70; to Buffalo 100; to Fort Schlosser20; from thence the land portage round the falls of Niagara is 10 miles to Lewistown: then the navigation is continued to Lake Ontario 7 miles ; through that lake to Kingston 170; to Montreal 170; to Quebec 170; and thence to the Gulf of St. Lawrence 320 miles; in all 1068 miles, in which there is no interruption of any consequence, except the falls of Niagara ; and it is impossible to view the subject from hence without a regret that this is not removed by such a canal as would admit of sloop navigation. From the waters to the eastward there are also several portages ; particularly from Lake Ontario to the Hudson, through the medium of the Oneida lake, Wood creek, and the Mohawk river ; and from the St. Lawrence river to the Hudson, through the medium of Lake Champlain. The following information regarding the banks of the lakes and rivers to the westward I collected chiefly at this place. Rocky river is navigable about 25 miles, and is one of the prettiest streams that falls into Lake Erie. The banks are pretty fertile and healthy. From thence to Black river is 1 8 miles, and the land on the lake shore is pretty good ; but the road is muddy part of the way. Black river is navigable a little way, and its banks are pretty fertile, but unhealthy. Thence to Vermilion river the road is good, and this river is navigable ; but its banks are unhealthy. At Vermilion ri- ver the road leaves the lake shore, and crosses Huron river, distant 13 miles, 3 miles from its outlet. Huron river is navigable a little way ; its banks are fertile, and are settling up ; but the country is very unhealthy. From Huron river to Sandusky river, about 2S miles, the road is low and mu.ldy in many places; but the soil is good, and there ire many fine meadows or prairies. Sandusky bay is the best harbour on the lake ; but the entrance is difficult. San- dusky river is navigable, and both its banks and those of the bay are settling up very fast ; but the country is unhealthy. From San- dusky river to Miami river is about 30 miles, and the road swampy nearly two-thirds of the way. On the Miami river there arcfint prairies, with very hi^h ^rass, extending a mile on each side. The country is uncommonly fertile, and the water is pure and beautiful; but the situation is rather unhealthy. It is, however, sf Ltling up 462 TRAVELS IN very fast with squatters. The Indian claim is not yet extinguished, and no titles to land can be procured. When the territory is pur- chased, it "is presiiaied that this will become one of the most exten^ sive settlement'- in the United States. Aboift 10 miles from Miami river the road passes the state Kne, and is pretty good to Detroit ; but it crosses a number of rivers with- out bridges, and travelling is somewhat diflicuU. ' CIIAPTEIl XCI, Michigan Territory Is bounded by the state of Ohio and Indiana territory on the south; by lake Michigan on the west; by die straits of iVIichili- mackinac on the north; and by lakes Huron anci St. Clair, aiul the water comiuunication thence to lake Erie, on the east. li; ex- tends between 41° 50' and 45° 28' north latitude, and 5° 12' and 8" 16' west longitude; being 25G miles long, by lS4bi'oad; and containing iin area of about 3 1',820 square miles, or 22,284,000 acres. In the centre of this territory thei'e is a high table land, from whence there is a descent in all directions. The soil is pretty fer- tile throughout the territory ; but it is only cultivated in the neigh- bourhood of the lakes and rivers. There are no rivers of great im- portance in the territory. Grand river is the largest, and extends from Lake Michigan, nearly across the territory to lake Erie. There are numerous small streams. The country is said to be heal- thy, and the climate more mild than its noi'thern situation would seem to indicate. The winters are warmer at Detroit than at Philadelphia. This district appears to have been first settled by the French from Canada, and the bulk of the inhabitants are of French extrac- tion. Detroit is the principal town, and is a large thriving settle- ment, consisting of from 300 to 400 houses. Thei'e are idso hand- some settlements of French people along the west end of lake Erie, particularly on Raisin river; but the territory is not increasing in population very fast. By the census of 1800, it contained 3206 in- habitants ; by last census, 47G2. A considerable purchase of land has lately been made from the Indians, and four millions of acres in this district are at the dispor sal of the goverracnl of the United States. OHIO. 4G3 The settlement of this territory will not, of course, advance ra- pidly till those near the old states be filled up; but such arc its na- tural advani'iges for tvade, and the salubrity of its climate, that it miibt attract notice, and ultimately have a station of consic^jttble im- port.'intc in the union. ^W This district, in common with the other territories, is under the special controul of concrress, who guarantee to the inhabitants a re- publican form of government ; the safety of their persons and pro- perty; the free exercise of religion; the trial by jury; the liberty of speech and of the press, and the support of education. Slavery is prohibited, and good faith is enjoined with the Indian tribes. Congress appoint a governor, a secretary, and three judges for the management of the public affairs, until the free male inhabitants of full age amount to 5000, when they will be governed by a coun- cil of their own choice; and when the inhabitants amount to 60,000 they will be admitted into the union us a state. 1 CHAPTER XCII. Leave Cleveland, — Grand rhrr, — AshtaJnda river, — Conneought river. A Mr. Bond, from Massachusetts, whom I met with at Cleve- land, agreed to be my travelling companion to Grand river. He liad to ride a little way oft' the road, but proposed to join me seven miles to the eastward at breakfast. I set out at seven o'clock on the morning of the 21st of October, and travelled to the east- ward within a few miles of the lake. I stopped to breakfast at the house of a iudije Don, seven miles from Cleveland. The road was Dretty good all the way, and passed many creeks by bridges, some of them in a very shattered state. The soil v/as dry and rather sandy, but \nne of it appeared pretty good, t?'ough all third rate. I saw a settler by the way, who told me he was from Connecticut, that he had bought 1000 acres of land here, at two dollars per acre, which he meai t to give to his sons and to go himself 14 mile^; below the falls of Ohio, where he owns 500 acres of land, which he bought at three dollars per acre. He likes this country very well, and finds it healthy. Judge Don's t -s , i ■sjftr— 464 TRATfiLS IN family were busy manufacturing Iiomcspun, and appeared to be quite healthy. ' My travelling companion did not come forward, and I jogged on alonngji I travelled about seven miles through a pretty good soil andl^ll watered, but the road deplorably bad, and I was labouring through the mud, my horse almost up to the knees, when I was joined by Mr. Bond ; soon after which the road im- proved a little, and socontinued for six miles to Chagrin river, where we stopped to feed our horses. Here we found a fine farm, and an orchard well stocked with fruit-trees. In the house the females were busy carding and spinning wool. The Yankees are said to be " full of notions," some of them good, some, perhaps, other- wise ; here they had a device for accelerating the motion of the spindle, which I found a very good notion, as it saved the young female who was spinning about 50 per cent, of the labour of the right hand. Chagrin river rises about 30 miles south from the lake, and is a rapid stream, abounding in mill seats, which are well improved by the erection of a great number of mills. It is sometimes very large. In a late flood it had carried away the bridge, and we had to cross it by a canoe, our horses swimming after us. From here to Grand river is 10 miles, and the road keeps with- in two or three miles of the lake, all the way. The soil is about the best of third rate, and the country pretty thickly settled. To- wards the river we travelled through a sandy plain, which the proprietors intended for a town or city ; but Nature said " no," and all the settlements are confined to the banks of the river, where there is a tavern, a store, an excellent saw and grist mill, a fulling mill, and a wool-carding machine. As we stopped here all night, I went into the store to make some inquiries, and found the merchant a young Scotsman, late- ly from Utica. He had a pretty full store of goods, but he told me, except a few pounds of tea and sugar, he could sell very lit- tle, as the people made nearly all their own clothing. Grand river is a fine bold stream which I'ises in the interior of the district, not far from Warren, and runs by a circuitous rapid course to the hike. It drives a great deal of machinery, and has a sort of harbour at its outlet, but is not navigable. Its banks arc healthy, and in some places fertile, I met here with a Mr. Buird, who was travelling to Buffalo nig p told, He w and w by th< to ret I he to( aftei', fully We w( We and tabula colli t well J led I] thou* ThJ s^W^sj.? ared to be 1 1 jogged retty good and I Avas the knees, I road im- •iver, where rm, and an the females are said to aps, other- tion of the I the young ibour of ll\g' lake, and is II improved etimes very Ige, and we us. keeps with- ioil is about icttled. To- , which the said « no," f the river, 1 orrist mill, ore to make man, late- but he told sell very lit- e interior of uitous rapid ery, and has Its banks are to Buffalo OHIO. 465 with a drove of cattle. Some of them had strayed, and he came back in quest of them, leaving the drove to go on with his neighbour. I availed myself of his company with pleasure, particularly as he told me he would travel along the lake shore, which I had not seen since I left Cleveland. ** October 26. The morning was clear and cold, with a pretty hard frost. We set out at 8 o'clock, and travelled along the west side of Grand river to the lake shore, where we crossed by a good wooden bridge. On reaching the sands we had an elegant view of the banks of the lake, as far as the eye could reach. They are generally steep, in some places rocky, and rise from 30 to 70 feet above the water. The sand is firm and smooth, and constitutes a fine road, when passable; but when a norUierly wind blows strong, the surf runs often to the very foot of the high banks. This day the water was smooth, and the weather clear and beautiful, which rendered our ride truly delightful. A little beyond Grand river we came to a clearing, and look- ing into it, saw a handsome house about 500 yards distant, which my fellow-traveller told me was the seat of governor Hunting- don. From thence we travelled 14< miles without seeing a single house, when we came to a little clearing, and at a miserable look- ing plantation we stopped to feed our horses. Here we were toltl, that during the late storm a boy had been lost in the woods. He was about 9 years of age, and had gone out to gather nuts ; and wandering a considerable way fiom home, he was overtaken by the storm, during which he made many ineffectual attempts to return ; when, overpowered by fatigue, and benumbed with cold, he took shelter in a hollow tree, where he was found two daya after, almost starved to death, and one of his thighs most dread- fully lacerated by the quills of a porcupine. He was alive when We were there, and hopes were entertained of his recovery. We resumed our journey along the banks of this beautiful lake, and passing many small runs, we arrived, towards night, at Ash- tabula river, the mouth of which was very deep, and a stranger could not have passed it in safety; but my fellow-traveller, being well acquainted with it, took a circuitous course by the bar, which led us 100 or 150 yards into the lake, and wc got over in safety, though our horses were at one time very near swimming. The timber on the banks of the lake was mostly white oak 59 (') -.1 ''in *i9'i ■•--"«.■»»« X..,^.-' •>. » ; 46G TRAVELS IN and hickory, and the price of land, which is mostly good third rate, is about 1 to 3 tlollars per acre. Wc rode up the east bank of Aslitabula river, about a quarter of a mile, and stopped for the nijjlit at the house of squire Leet. A township court was held at the house of the squire, at which ft good many of the inhabitants were assembled, which guva us an opportunity of seeing a little of the manners of the people in Kt'w Connecticut, and the mode of dispensing justice. A young man had been convicted of injuring his neighbour's property, and the award of the court had not yet been complied with. lie was> now accused of poisoning a horse. While the ex- amination was going on, he ran off, but was overtaken and brought back. The proceedings were conducted in a very orderly man- ner, and after the examination of the witnesses there were pretty eloquent i)leading3, on the one side by a young lawyer, recently from Connecticut; on the other, by a brick-maker. The court Was then cleared, and the squire called in the assistance of two of his neighbours, to make up the award. It was found that the charge of poisoning the horse was not proven, but the young man was ordered to be kept in custody until the former award should be satisfied. The greater part of the people remained at the house of the justice all night, and, as several of them had their wives and daughters along with them, we had a numcrsus company, and spent a very convivial evening. My fellow-traveller was acquaint- ed in the family, and they were acquainted with his vocal pow- ers. He sang an excellent song, but like other good singers, he was unwilling to make a display, and it was not till after a good deal of pressing from the ladies, that he would open the concert. He soon made ample amends for the dvilay, however. He fiung a number of elegant songs, and having elevated the spirits of the company, we had songs and stories in abundance, till a pretty late hour. I was called upon, of course ; but, as hereto- fore, I could do nothing except in Scottish songs, and I was doubtful how they would answer on the banks of lake Erie. How- ever, I soon found that this was one of the most acceptable treats I could give the company. They were, in fact, enthusiastic ad- mirers of Scbtttbh music ; Burns' songs were highly relished, and ■H; ^^^$,f^fy^,'^\ »,*^" i-**"ii-^— rT*9-r»'-**'-'- fjood third t n quarter uire Lect. nt which :h gavo U8 people in icighbour's complied lilc thcex- nd brought derjy man- vere pretty r, recently The court nee of two id that the young man 'ard should use of the wives and ipany, and IS acquaint- vocal pow- singers, he liter a good he concert. ^vcr. He the spirits aiice, till a as hereto- and I was rie. How- table treats isiastic ad-< ished, and OHIO. 467 one of the company anticipated nic by sin^^ing my favourite soiiir of Muirland Willie.* October 23d.. On getting up this morning, we found that the prisoner had again eluded the vigilance of juHtice, and flpd. Wu got a very excellent breakfast, and starting at 8 o'clock, we * The estimation in which Srottish niiiHic is held, wherever it is known, is a fonvia- cin;; (traof of itx intrinsic merit. It is full of sensibility, nnd fiiidn it* way dirietly to till' chords of the human heart ; and it ha<* s|irc»d the mantlit of its "harms so ef- fectiuii:;' I vur the Scottish lungunge, ihni it hiis extended fnr nnd wide, and in now in such a (.tiite of coiivorsatiui), that it wih prolmbly endure to the reniota.>ttt age*. In* deed, to u. ii:itive of Scotland, the limgu.ijre and the music are so associated together, that llicy ciim')t he separated. Burns the prince of jiocts, was so sc'Ps!|)le ofthi^ that in ])roniising his assistance to Thomson's elo^unt coilvction, he says, "apropos! i( you are I'or English verses, there is on my part, nn end of the matter. Whether in the simpl'^ity of tho ballnd, or the pathos of the song, I can only hope to please myself '.1 l>\:hir alloived at least a sprinkling of our native ton,',;ue." Tliis sprinkling was fj'cely allowed : u most transcendent beam of light was shed abroad upon Scottish music n:id poi.tiy ; nnd we lire almost lost with wonder, at contemplating the as» tonishinij power, yet sweet simplicity, of this wonderful poet, displayed in all the va- rious forras of the gay, the hu.iiorous the patriotic, and the pathetic, 'llie name of Burns mil l endure for ever ; and along with it will be transmitted to posterity such songs as Tonny Leslie, Duncan Gray, Scots wha hoe wi' Wallace bkd, and Hi jht land Mary. Burns, indeed, was quite an enthusiast on the subject of songs >f> which he could roam in a flowery field, and one quite suited to his fancy ; and to this field Mr. Thom- son has done ample justice, by transplanting a number of the finest flowers into kis work, which I consider as the flower-gardei^ of Scottish Songs. Among others ho has adopted the very old, humorous historical song of Muirland Willie; and the cir- cumstance of meeting with it on the banks of lake Erie, was to me so novel and un- expected, that I am induced to insert it at this place. It is one of the oldest Scot- tish songs extant, and present! a very good picture of the primitive manners of that country. MUIRLAND WILLIE. HEARKEN, and I will tell ye how Young muirland Willie came to woo, Tho' he could neither say nor do ; The truth I tell to ye. But ay he cried, Whate'er betide, Maggy I'll hae her to be my bride, With a fal de ral al, fal al de ral, fal al dc ral al de ral L On his gray yad as he did ride, Wi' dirk and pistol by his side. He pricked on wi' mcikl* pride, Wi' meikle mirth and glcc^ Out o'er yon moss out o'er yon moor, Till he came to her daddy's door, With a fal de ral, &c." " Guidinan," quo he, " be ye witliin? I'm come ye'r dochtcr's love to win : I care na for makin meikle din, WHiat answer gie ye me ?" " Now, wooer," quo he, " wad ye light down, I'll gie ye my dochter's love to win, With a ful do nil, r, I^^K^^ ^TTlw-^Ti^ , ■■*'^^1 ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A* 'ks r/. ^ 1.0 V^ U£ itt lii 12.2 u HA I.I 1^ |j£ 12.0 u 6" ,»* '/ Kiotograiiiic Sciences Corporation ¥^ v &^ <> 23 WfST MAIN STIHT WnSTIR.N.Y. 14SM (716) •72-4503 4^> 468 TBAVRLS IN pursued our jouniey along the banks of the lake ; but it was not so pleasant as yesterday. There was a ccmsiderable swell from the north- west) and the noise of the waves was disagreeable, while in some places we had to ride a considerable way through the water. A num- ber of fishes had been blown ashore during the late gale, and we saw the tracks of a great number of bears, foxes, deer, and squirrels, a- long the sands. The land along the banks, was nearly the same as that we passed yesterday : but, in addition to the timber, we saw a *Naw, wootr, Bin' ye're lighted down, 'Whar d'ye win, or in what town ? I think my dochter winna gloom * On sick lad as ye." The wooer he stepped up the house, And wow but he was wondrous crouse, ' 'Withaftiideral, &c. ** I hae three owsen in a pleugli, Twa gude gaen yads, an* gear enough, My place they ca' it Cauld*enough, I scorn to tell a he ; .Besides I had frae the great laird, -A peat pat, and a lang kail yard, ,i With a fal de ral, &c." llie maid put on her kirtle brown. She was the brawest in a' the town, I wat en him she did na' gloyith«faluera],&c. ■ ^ - Jt-'t- " " 1 Im'^ ' ■ft < BrS^HUftv.. r »J > ^lli OHIO. 46# good deal of hemlock. The banks of the lake were entirely desti- tute of settlements, at which I was much surprised; but I learned that the proprietors had kept it up on speculation, expecting a very high price for it after the other parts of the country are settled. If this be the case, I fear they have miscalculated. The want of set- tlements along the lake shore, which is the most prominent part of the district, is calculated to impress settlers with an un&vourable idea of the country ; and where the settlements are few, the road is bad, another disagreeable circumstance to settlers, and which has considerably retarded the settlement of the interior of the district. Indeed, I think it is a pity that the Connecticut reserve was mad« the subject of individual speculation at all. The state of Connccti* cut could have held it without embarrassment, and sold it out to set- tlers as there was a demand for it, thereby affording a superior ac- commodation to the public, and probably increasing the state fundit by availing themselves of the rise that would have taken place in the course of settlement. The state, too, having mudi greater power than individuals, and having but one interest, could have adopted the most efficacious measures to render the country healthy, by improving the outlets of rivers, draining swamps, &c. ; and they might have had the whole country, particularly the shores of the lake, in a very elegant state by this time. I cannot leave this subject without in- dulging in a speculation as to what the banks of this elegant lake might have been, and probably would have been, under judidous management. The Connecticut reserve stretches along the lake about 1 60 miles. It is all arable, and a good dry road could have been run along the shore the whole way. If the banks had been laid out in farms having a quarter of a mile in front, and one mile de^, they would hare amounted to 600; and, allowing 10 persons to each, the lake shore alone would have contained 6(XK) inhabit- ants, being nearly equal to all th& inhabitants in the district, with the exception of Trumbull county, no part of which is on the lake. About 15 miles from Ashtabula river, we crossed Conneoght ri- ver, by a wooden bridge, close to the lake shore^ where we observ- ed several settlements; and a mile and a half from thence we en- tered into the state of Pennsylvania. Conneoght river is a pretty little stream, rising near the head waters of French creek. It drives a number of mills, and,there are some iron-works upon it. Ashtabula river is a pretty large stream, which drives a nUmbef of mills, and has some pretty rkh Unds on its banks. .V I. it (/ I'M ■iAJU&M^ "»^^mf^''-^:. 470 ORIO. .U. \ I CHAPTER XCIII. STATE OF OHIO. J. HAVE already been so copious in my remarks on the respec* live districts of this interesting state^ that little now remains bnt to give in this chapter a general summary. It is bounded on the north by Lake Erie and Michigan territory; on the south and south-east by the Ohio river ; on the east by Penn- sylvania; and on the west by the Indiana territory. It extends from north latitude 88* 30' to 39*» 57', and from 3<» 25' to 7" 37' west longitude. Its length is 228 miles, and its breadth 227 ; it^ square contents about 43,860 miles, or 28,070,400 acres. The face of the country has been noticed in the several districts, except to the north-west, where the Indian claim is not yet extin- guished ; and this is a large tract, occupying nearly one-fourth of the whole state. That part of it which borders upon the lakes has been noticed. It appears to be generally level, or rather an undur lating country, abounding with plains, and the spil is mostly good. The Miami of the lakes runs through the northern part of it, and appears to be a very interesting river, with rich banks. It rises in the Indiana territory a little beyond the state line, where there is a portage of 8 miles only to the Wabash. It continues a north-east course to Fort Defiance, where it is joined by the Au Glaise river, a considerable stream from the southward, which rises near the head of the Great Miami. From Fort Miami the riyer runs a northr east course of 60 miles, when it falls into Lake Erie, through Mi- auni bay. The bay extends about 12 miles into the interior of the country; is from half a mile to S mijes wide, and deq) enough for Teasels of 30 or 40 tons. The river is navigable for long boats more than 100 miles. The Sandusky river and bay have been already noticed ; but it may be added here that the river rises in this dis- trict, near th^ head of Whetstone river, about 60 miles from the lak^ and passes through a tract of excellent country, gliding with a rapid course over a bed of limestone so interrupted with rpckj» and rapids as to render the navigation impracticable, except a very little way from the bay. It may be said, in general, of the whdie state^ that it has a goo4 aofl, a good climate, is wdF wtHtietedf fi9d idliQunda wH|i excellait timber and minerals, ., ' .j!»4i/v»i ■■>' 'r0Sk --.v^*-;\- *»>../ -■ ■j^j.'f^l^^^Kt OHIO'. 471 Hiaving these great natural advatltages, it ^oon attracted general attention, and began to settle under certain grants, which have been already noticed, from 20 to 25 years ago ; but at the census, of 1800 it contained only 45,365 inhabitants, and remained under the ter- ritorial form of governnent until the year 1802, when having th^ number of inhabitants required by law, 60,000, it was admitted in- to the union as a state. It now contains, by the last census, 230,760 inhabitants ; and such is the rapid steps by which the population is going on, that it will probably contain 600,000 in 10 years hence; and, ultimately, it will probably support a greater number of in- habitants than any of the old states, New York, perhaps, excepted. As the settlement of this state is a remarkable feature in political economy, I shall here insert a statistical table of the several districts and counties, with the population by the last census. t«e^>: Afc .rf-. '!'...». ■: 473 bfio. X STATISTICAL TABLE OF THE STATE OF OHIOr »»<*»»>»»<■«»%«%»»»»» %»%«i Those counties where the population is not filled up, have been laid off since the census was taken. Those counties marked *, are principally situated in the district oppo- site to them, but part is in another district. \ Personnof Districta. Countiei. Malea. Females, colour no^ Total. Indiana. Connecticut RcMrrc AflhtabulA Geauga 1564 13S0 3 2917 Cayahoga 798 64T 14 1459 Huron Portage 161S 1376 7 2995 TnunbuH 4590 4026 55 8671 Cuton Richladd Wayna StrabtnTiIl* Cohiinbiann 5529 5S50 99 10fi7« •Stark 1462 1265 7 2734 JeflVnon 8778 8358 124 17260 Marietta ■Belmont 5721 5288 88 11097 /anmvill^ •TuacanMrs Coshocton 158S 1457 • 3045 -- •Guemiey 1616 1438 7 3051 Muakingum 5305 4656 75 10036 •Waihington 31IS 2831 48 5991 Ohio Compuj •Athena 1463 1324 4 2791 •Gallia VI 75 1991 15 4181 Chillicoth* •Knox 1145 993 13 2129 ^DeUwara loss 923 44 2000 •Licking 9048 1796 8 8852 * Franklin 1796 1647 43 3486 Fairfield 59S8 5398 35 11361 •Pickaway 2726 3329 69 7124 •lion 7950 7194 370 15514 •Scioto 1792 1578 29 3399 Yirglnk MUituy Madiaon 876 714 13 1603 , Fayette 974 876 4 1854 •Greene 90S9 2795 36 5870 Clinton 1316 1349 9 2674 •Warren 5152 4684 89 9925 Highland 3044 2596 126 5766 Adama 4825 4588 21 9436 Clermont 4981 4947 37 9965 Symmea* Puichaaa •HamUton 7886 7914 158 15258 Cincinnati ** Champaign 3S02 3936 65 6303 Miw»i 2047 1873 21 3941 Clark Montgomery 4031 1637 54 7723 FM>1« 1714 1565 25 3304 •Butler 5745 5336 79 11150 119657 109204 1899 230760 ■*;■■.■( 1^. :* ohi^; f' 474 OHIO> Ohio has aclually a counterbalance in that part of New England coniprchoulin^ New Ilampehirc, Massachusetts, Rhode I«lnud, and Cunncclicnt. In thcac four states, the females of 26 and upwards outnumber tb? males by 16,953; being, in the ag- gregate, equal to 1 in 11. In New Hampshire, it is about 1 in 17; in Massachusetts, 1 in 11 ; in Rhode Island, 1 in 8 ; and in Connecticut, 1 in 10. This result, so difTerent from all the other states, corroborates the well-known fact, that the great influx of P'^pulation into ttiis state has been from these states ; and this and other circumstances show that they are, in fact, the great nur- sery from whence the northern part of the western world is to be peopled. This reflection really inspires the mind with delightful sensations, in reviewing this elegant country, llie mass of the T^ew England people get a virtuous education ; they are generally handspmo in their persons, active, hardy, and industrious ; and it is the very flower of them who emigrate. The mind that con« ceivcs a settlement in a distant country must be possessed of inde* pendence ; the spirit that executes an overland journey of five or six weeks, in search of independence, must be ennobled by the Great Spirit; and his blessing on their virtuous exertions is their re.ward. Having seen and admired these exertions, they have every good wish of mine in their favour. I will only suggest to . the males to take a greater portion of the " blooming Yankee girls" along with them, and not suffer nearly 17,000 of them to pine away as old maids in t\)eir own country, when it is seen they are so much wanted in this. The imprpvehfients in this state generally have kept pace with the spirit and industry of the peop)e» as will oe seeii by the notice that has been taWen of many of the towns, farm-houses, manufac- tories, Tuads, bridges, &c.; and it Viny be useful to insert the principal towns in the respective vUatricts, in a geographical .ax- rangement, so as to give a connected view of th« whole. Chief Tarnis* Warren, Canton, New Lisbon, Steuben- ville, St/ Clairsville. New Philadelphia, Coshocton, ZanesvUle* , Marietta District, Iilijri6tta« 4 Ohio Company's Purchun^ Aih«Uii OaUiqpoUi. Districts. Connecticut Reserve, Steubcnville District, Zanesville Dit>trictj ^k^lt OHIO. Chillicothe District, 475 New Virginia Militatary Lands, Symmes* Purchase, Cincinnati District, Newark, Worthington, Lanca&tcr. Franklinton, Chillicothe, Zenia,^ West Union, 'Williamsburg. Lebanon, Dccrfield, Hamilton, Cincinnati. Dayton. Besides these, tlicre is a vast number of small villages, mostly all increasing; and the view of the buildings in the towns, villages, end farm-houses show the progress cf industry, of wcullb, '«nd of public taste. The first buildings are mostly temporary log huts. These give way to frame houses; and, in many districts of this country, the number of elegant brick and stou" buildings is really surprizing. Three per cent, of all the money arising from the bale of lands by the United States is appropriated to the making of roads, and this fund has been greatly supported by the state legislature, in which the respective counties have actively co-operated, so that the whole state is checquered with roads in all directions. Many of them are not very good ; but, making allowance tor the newness of the couiitry, this important branch has been supported with laudable attention. Bridges are numerous, but they are mostly temporary. Canals are not wanted, except at some few portages already noticed ; and they will, no doubt, be cut as soon as there is sufficient intercourse to support ihem. * The great business of tlie state is agrioljjkure, aided by such branches of mechanism as tend to support that important branch, and such manufactures as are calculated for the state of society ; together with teachers, doctors, and lawyers, of which the former are most wanted, and have the best chan ^^sf success. They will require, however, to be men of plain good icnse, having a stock of useful information, and a happy facility for communicating it to the rising generation* Ornamental education, and especially that tinselled kind of it which may be called the ghost of orna- ment, is not wanted here, for the people are plain practical folks, having a turn for examination, and for looking into the inside of things ; and it is only such as appear to conter some substantial ad- vantage that they will be witling to pay for. In support of edu- cation, there is a taore Ample fund provided than in any other couatiy in tiie worid; tOQnidlng of no less than one-thirty-«ixtli '*• y i*v . 1 1 , 476 OHIO. 1 part of the whole lands in the state. These schooMands are dif- lercntljr situated in different districts. In the United States army- ^ lands and Connecticut reserve, the school-lands are interspersed throughout thedivtricts in tracto of from 4000 to 16,000 acres, so as to form one-thirty-sixth of the whole. In the Virginia) military lands one-thirty-sixth part of the district is to be selected by the legislature of the state, after the Virginia land-warrants are satis- fied. In nil the other districts onc-thirty-sixth part of each township is appropriated, being uniformly the sixteenth section, which lies near the centre. Of all the arrangements, I consider this the best, because it places the pnblic proi)erty of the township under the immediate direction and management of those interested in it; •o that more benefit will doubtless result from it, than any of tlie others. In process of time^ the effect of these appropriations will be salutary beyond what we can at present, perhaps, form an idea of. Let this simple arrangement be contrasted with what some of the enlighted governments of Europe have done to en- ' lighten the human mind, and then say whether the people are not fit to govern themselves, or whether *' they are their own wont friends," when they attempt it. I'he whole of this territory belonged to the United States, and, during the territorial government, they made several important regulations which de&erve to be noticed. First, the legislature were prohibited by the United States from interfering with the disposal of the soil, or any regulations that congress might find necessary to make £^ securing the titles to the purchasers. Se- cond, no tax coul(^De imposed on lands, the property of the United States ; and in no case could non-resident proprietors be taxed higher than residents. Third, the navigable waters lead- ing into the Mississippi and St. Laurence, and the carryiug-places D^tween them, are to be common highways, and for ever free, as well to the inhabitants of the said territory as to the inhabitants of the United States, and those of any other states that, may be ad- mitted into the confederacy, without any tax. These several laws were continued in force, and at passing the act for admitting the state of Ohio into the union, it was agreed to grant, to the state the section No. 16, in each township, for school-lands; the six mile square reservation, including th« salt-springs On the Scioto; the salt-springs near the Muskingum) and those ip ;the military tract, with the sections tfiiilnclqde^e laine; aod the aforesaid Olio. 477 fond for makinr and lupporting roods ; it being understood that all purchases of land from the United States, should be exempt- ed from the state tax till five years after the purchase is made. It was also enacted by congress, that there should neither be slavery nor involuntary servitude in the territory, and the landa being sold, and the country originally settled under that regula- tion, it is supposed by some that the state legislature could not now pass a law to admit slaves. Others think they have full power. But the discussion of this point is of no consequence, a« slavery is expressly prohibited by the state constitution ; and, were the case submitted to the people^ I have no doubt but more than nine-tenths of them would be against slavery. > : ' I have already noticed that the genius of the people may, in part, be inferred fron) the state constitutions. If so, the people of this state have clear heads, and a correct view of political princi- ples. The constitution of the state of Ohio is probably the most complete state constitution in the union ; but it is to be remarked that the framers of it had the experience of 16 states before them. Like the constitutions of the most of the states, it is founded upon general principles, and declares that All men arc born equally free and independent. All men have a natural right to worship God according to the dictates of their own consciences. Trial by jury shall be inviolate. - » ; " Printing-presses shall be free. Unwarrantable searches shall not be permitted. . v > ., ji > Unnecessary rigor shall not be exercised. Excessive bail shall not be required in bailable offences. All penalties shall be proportioned to the nature of the offence. The liberty of the people to assemble together to consult for the public good, and to bear arms in their own defence, is guaran- teed. Hereditary emoluments, privileges, and honours, are for ever prohibited. Slavery is for ever prohibited, and it is declared that ** no in- denture of any negro or mulatto hereafter made and executed out of the state, or, if made in the state, where the term of ser- vice ej^ceeds one year, shall be of the least validity, except those ^iven in the case c^ apprenticeship.*^ V^ - M -1 ■^^\ >•■■;' ;r!^p|;^^g^ 478 OHIO. « Religion, morality, and knowledge, being euentially neces- lary to the good government and happiness of mankind, schools and the means of instruction hhall for ever be encouraged by Icgis. lative provision, not inconsistent with the rights of conscience." The government is legislative and executive, witli power to provide for, and regulate the judicial and military authority. 'Vhe Irginlature consists of two branches ; a senate and house of representatives. The representatives must not exceed 72 members, and are chosen annually by the people, in which every free white male who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided a year in the state, and paid taxes, shall have a vote. The representatives must have the same qualifications, and be 25 years of age. The senators nrc chosen biennially by qualified voters for repre- sentatives, and one half vacate their seats every year. They shall never be less than one-third nor more than one-half of the repre- sentatives. Tliey must, besides the other qualifications of the re- presentatives, have resided two years in the countr}-, and be 30 years of age. The governor is chosen by the electors for the members of the general assembly for the term of two years, and is not eligible for more than six years in eight. He must be SO years of age, and have been a citizen of the United States 12 years, and an inhabitant of the state four years. The judicial power is rested in a supreme court, in courts of common pleas for each county, in justices of the peace, and such o- ther courts as the legislature may appoint. The supreme court consists of three judges, appointed by the as- sembly, who hold their offices for seven years. The courts of common pleas consist of a president and associate judges, chosen in like manner, and for the like term. A justice court is held in each township, and the justices are e- lected by the inhabitants of the respective towns ; and continue in office three years. The powers and duties of the justices are from time to time regulated and defined by law. I may notice that this last regulation is a peculiar feature in the local jurisprudence of the itat^ and goes far to do away all petty litigation. The justices originally had cognizance of all cases where the sums did not exceed 30 dollars. By an act of the legislature their pow- ers were extended to cases not exceeding 50. j^llan; vdiich gave rise to a very singular traniMtpi in the al§^ The judges of thcr '• *Jf ji'^* - OHIO. 479 supreme court refused to put the Inw in execution, alleging that it was contrnry to the conHtitutionofthe United State*. They were im|V'nched by the houite of representatives ; but it retjuircs two* tiiii'Ja ol'the senate to convict, and they were Havcd by a very nar- row majority. The legislature, to mark their diiuipprobation of the conduct of the judges, raised the sum from 50 to 70 dollars ; and when the seven years for which they were appointed expired, they were not re-clcctcJ. The justice courts have now cognizance of all cases where the sums do not exceed 70 dollars. In the military department the captains and subalterns of the mi- litia are chosen by those persons in their rchpectivc company dis- tricts subject to military duty. Major!) are elected by captains and subalterns. Colonels are elected by majors, captains and subalterns. Brigadier-generals arc elected by the commissioned officers of their respective brigades. Major-generals and quarter- master generals arc appointed by joint ballot of both houses of the legislature. The Governor is the commander in chief, and appoints the adjutants. It is proper to remark that the legislature of this state has been careful to enact several laws to curb irregularities, and to enforce the practice of virtue ; and they have had a very salutary effect* In travelling through the state I noticed the peaceable deportment of the inhabitants, and was somewhat surprised that I heard no swearing. It is prohibited by law, at the rate of a dollar for an oath ; ond the law is strictly put in execution. Illegitimate commerce be- tween the sexes is also prohibited, under pretty heavy penalties ; and a law has lately been enacted to enforce the manioge covenant, in cases where people are disposed to plead adiaannullmcnt on th« score of religion.* Upon the whole, the state of Ohio promises fair to become one of the brightest in the union, in point of internal prosperity and a virtuous population. ** A singular religious sect made its appearance in this country some tine age^ called Shakers. One of their regulations is that none of their members are to marry; and those who are married wlicn tliey join thetn, they consider free from the marriag* obli- gation, lliey are reputed to be a sober industrious people, in general ; but the absurd* ity of this rcgulatioii is self-evident Were such ■ practice to beiome general, the globe would soon b« depopulated. But th* tica of affection between the sexes are too deeply Mated in «tir itatuni by th* Ood of Nature to b« footed out by this or any other sect., Stimgt aa h laay appaar, kmnrm, a nmber >ilf||si4a have deserted their families tin ,;i . ■) ( r.y'i^sMm ^^^^ ~nf>l>^ 4^V 480 TXATSLS Iir ri iri*?'. ".vl*^ ^ r^ I: ■4, CHAPTER XCIV. : Pennst/lvaniat — Erie, The banks of the lake in Pennsylvania exhibited nearly the same appearance as those to the westward ; but we noticed that many settlements had been made,' and the country was generally more e- levuted. The wind was from the north-west, and the effect was ve- ry different from that of north-west winds to the east of the moun- tains. It was here cloudy and mild. \Vc continued along the shore without any interruption, for se- ven miles, when we came to Elk creek ; and here we were obliged to ride a considerable way through, the woods to get across tltc creek by a bridge. In the course of our ride we saw a number of settlements tliat had been abandoned, and were informed that it was in consequence of a difficulty about the land-titles, which had operated very much against the settlement of this part of Pennsyl- vania, We travelled along the lake shore, eight miles, to Walnut creek, where we stopped to feed our horses at some good mills, and found the country here healthy and agreeable. At Walnut creek we left the lake shore, and travelled through a pretty good soil, the woods very thick, and abounding with large trees of hemlock. Towards dark we reached a fine turnpike road, leading from Erie to French creek, and travelling along it two miles, we reached Erie, 1 1 miles from Walnut creek, at 7 o'clock. Erie is situated in latitude 42** 8', on a high bank on the south side of the lake, opposite to a small peninsula which extends a con- siderable way into the lake, and forms a natural basin for a har- bour ; but the entrance is choaked up by a sand-bar, and vessels have to lie on the outside exposed to the weather. The town is regularly laid out, in a beautiful and healthy situa- tion, but it is not increasing. It contains about 76 houses, mostly built of wood, but several of them are uninhabited. The number of inhabittmts is 395. The public buildings are, a court-house, join them ; and as it was requisite to put all their money into the common stock of the society, their families were left destitute, and became a burden upon the public. Tlie state very judiciously enacted that when any man joins such a society, the wife shnll be ontitled to all the property ; and Hhould that not be iiiffieiont to maintain the family, he is bound to find security that they wilt iMpraridod for widiout^fcecMiiiValmrdfn on th» ■tata. f^A,-' , \T V t PENNSYLVANIA. 481 jaiU and school. There are three taverns, and three stores ; and a namber of tradesmen are employed ; but the place appears dull. Until of late, the town was supported by the salt trade; but that has very much declined, in consequence of so much of the lowei country being now supplied from the Kanhaway works. The soil is pretty good in the neighbourhood of the town, but the difficulty about land-titles has extended to this place, and greatly retarded the progress of settlement, and the prosperity of the country. Provisions are not so plenty nor so cheap as in some ether places of the western country ; flour is 6 dollars per barrel, beef 4 dollars 50 cents per cwt., bacon 1 2^ cents per pound ; fish are very plenty, and of an excellent quality. The seasons hei'e are rather cold. Winter commences about tiio «of December, and continues to the 1st of April, sometimes in- sely cold, with a continued frost for three months. The spring, summer, and fall are very pleasant. Land in the neighbourhood, where the title is good, sells for from 5 to 10 dollars; labourers have 75 cents per day, carpenters 1 dollar, masons 1 dollar 50 cents. There is no opening for manu- factures except carding machines. The country is well adapted for grazing ; sheep thrive very well, and potatoes are the best I have seen in America. * , This place is about 100 miles from Pittsburg, and there is a wa- ter conveyance all the way except 14 miles, over which there is now an excellent turnpike road ; and it has been in contemplation to dig a canal. It is quite practicable, at least from the town of Erie to French creek ; but the bank of the lake is too high and steep to allow a hope to be encotiraged that the waters can be con- nected for a long time to come. It is remarked by the inhabitants here, that the lake has fallen three feet since the first settlement of Erie, and there is not now more than six feet water on the bar. It is presumed that 2000 dollars would make it sufficiently deep to ad- mit the traders on the lake. Mr. Baird, my agreeable travelling companion, came up with his drove of cattle here, and we parted. Ho told me that the peo- ple along the banks of the lake would always have a fine market for their surplus stock to the eastward, and that there would be plenty of people always ready to buy. The price at present is 25 dollars for ca(de, m^asoring ux feet round the belly, and 1 dollar is added or deducted for every inch over or under that . measure. -.1 ^^ Gl ' . l^V h m i- JS"' J 11 ¥m ^3^-'^'&^ ^»w^:M^" 482 TRAVELS IN I ' ^/ CHAPTER XCV. Leave Eric, — Cataragtts crceJcy- -Buffalo. . \^H1LE I remained at Erie, a vessel came in from Buffalo, which was to sail again in a short time. 1 had some thoughts of taking a passage by it; but reflecting on 4he uncertainty of water conveyance, I gave up the idea, and determined to go on land. 1 accordingly set out at 12 o'clock on the 25th of October, and travelled 4^ miles, when I passed a pretty clear stream running over a stratum of slate. Near this place 1 noticed the dreadful ef> fects produced by a tornado. A piece of ground about half a mile broad, and of a length that I could not perceive, had its timber some of it very large, completely blown down, and appeared W^ a large avenue. I passed over a number of pretty little streamsj the water generally clear, with a slate bottom, and stopped 14 miles from Eric to feed my horse. Here I met with an honest ' Dutch farmer, who told me he had been a soldier in the American war, and was now settled near Chatavghque lake, in a fertile coun« try, and liked the place very well. / We travelled on together, and four miles from the tavern, at Twenty Mile creek, which we passed after descending a very deep valley, we met seven waggons loaded with new settlers for the wes- tern country. Each waggon contained about eight or ten persons. "We spoke to one of the families, who told us they were from Low- er Canada. Ten miles beyond this we reached a Mrs. Perry's, near Chataughque creek, where we stopped all night. >; . ' ■ . , October 26th. This morning was clear, cold, and beautiful, with a pretty hard frost. I met with two gentlemen of the name of Strong from the Connecticut Reserve, bound for Connecticut, . and I availed myself of their company. . i There is no great variety in this district : the face of the country is nearly level ; the land generally pretty good ; and the woods cou- liist of beech, clni, walnut, chesnut, &c. interspersed with some , little hemlock and pine, all the way on from Erie. We travelled . 13 miles to breakfast, part of the way by an execrable road. Four miles from thence we passed through C^onadaway, where there is a fine creek, and some good mills, ajw it teems {^thriving sct- ^ tlcnient. Beyond this ih« rood is a lil^e^pfe dry^ bilt,|>j||ip means i-~.''^r Hd «>W%' ^Wl \. vtvr YCBK. 483 good, for 1 1 miles, where we passed two very romantic little streams which formed a junction n little below. From thence we passed a pretty high ridge, and came to the banks of the lake, where we could see the trees in Upper Canada : we then travelled three miles along the lake shore, when we arrived at Cataragus, where we stopped for the night. The inhabitants in all this district are mostly from the New England states, and are very civil and discreet. We were told by the landlord, that a vast number of people travel through this place annually to the westward. The greatest number are from Connecticut, the next greatest from Massachu- sets, next from New Hampshire, and a considerable number from Rhode Island, Vermont, and Lower Canada. •' Cataragus creek is a considerable stream, rising about 50 miles to the eastward. It has some good situations for mill-seats, and fertile banks, particularly near the lake, on which there is an In- dian reservation of about 50 s(|uare miles, containing a settlement of between 500 and 600 Indians. They arc very peaceable and well disposed. October 27th. We started at six oclock ; the morning was clear, and rather cold. We crossed at a ferry, and travelled through a rich bottom, part of the Indian reservatiOii, about half a mile, when we reached the lake shore. There was a considerable swell from the north-west, which occasioned a rough surt^ and we were soon stopped at a rocky precipice, against which the waves dashed with great violence. We clambered up the hill, and tra- velled round it through the woods by a very bad road. Mere we met a travelling family who had been obliged to lie out all night ; one of the children had been taken sick, and the poor mother, a very good-looking woman, appeared very dejected; but she brightened up a little when we told them they were only a little way from a tavern. We could hardly refrain from tears of sym- pathy, and Mr. Strong said it brought the circumstance of his own emigration fresh to his mind, during which " the old woman shed many a salt tear." Having wished this family a good journey, we travelled on a lit- tle way, when we came to a second set of rocks, which we also pas- sed by a very bad road through the woods, and passing again to the beach, we came to ft third aeries, along the foot of which we travelled nearly three quarters of a mile. These rocks are elevated III ri;. 'sn it...*™.!* as*?!-, ^ .'!.: :t -<, •■■ im. * «f*' 484* TRAVBLS IN above the lake from 50 to 60 feet, arc perpendicular, and general- ly composed of soft blue slate. When the lake is calm, or when the wind blows from the east or south, the beach is dry at the foot, and travelling, though a little rough, is tolerably good ; but when the lake is rough, and a wind from the north or west, it is impos- sible sometimes to pass along the shore, and attended with danger to attempt it. We were told that a waggon, in attempting to pass some time before, had been upset, and a young woman drowned. At this place, and a considerable way along the shore, there is a singular stratum of blue slate, over which the road passes, smooth under our feet, and disposed in layers of about 2^ or 3 feet broad, that appear as regularly joined as a pavement done by art. These run out into the lake nearly at right angles with the shore, and at an angle of descent probably not exceeding one degree. They appear- ed in the water as far asl could perceive, and the view was really admirable. Passing these, we travelled a little way over sands, when we came to a smalt creek, and my companions, being afraid of quick- sands at its outlet, travelled some way round by a bridge. As I saw nothing lo fear, I kept the road by the lake shore; but I soon found myself in an unlooked-for dilemma. I came to another pre- cipice : my companions had taken the road through the woods ; the waves beat violently against the rocks ; and I stood for some time undetermined whether I should attempt to pass or not. I went a little way into the lake, and observed that the passage was of no great breadth, and that it was occasionally nearly dry at tlie foot of the rocks. *I was induced to venture ; but I had [)rocecded only a little way when a rolling wave nearly dashed my horse a- gainst the rocks, and almost carried it off its feet by its return. I was now in equal danger whether I went on or turned back. I pushed on, but the lake became more deep, and the bottom very rough. Another wave struck my horse, and it tumbled over a stone at the same moment, and had almost foundered. However, I was now past the worst, and in a little got safely ronnd the rock, where my companions were anxiously waiting for me. It appears, the great danger in these passes is from the horse foundering over the stony bottom. Beyond this we travelled over a broad sandy beach, where we had a fine view of the lake ; the land was flatr and the soil sandy ; the principal timber being scrubby oak, hemlock, pine, &c. At some places, however, tli# country was jnore elevated, irith vast fi, *'^^w> rm m 'A' "'■ «^»f* mm^^ NEW YORK. 48& masses of limestone, and towards noon we came to a body of prood land, and stopped at a beautiful plantation on the banks of the lake to breakfast. I was told that the family were from Vermont, and had been here five years. They had a farm of SOO acres, of which they had cleared 120. Here is one of the most beautiful prospects that I saw on all the lake. From hence we travelled five miles along the beach ; the banks being high, and pretty fertile. Here we passed a creek, in the mouth of which lay a little crazy boat, which was bound up the lake, but could not proceed, and the materials of a moving family were scattered abroad upon the beach. After passing this creek the sandy beach is broad ; the land on the shore of the lake is low, and we were told that an extensive swamp stretched a considerable way to the eastward. As we approached the Bufialo creek, we left the lake shore, and passed over a very fertile tract of level country. At the creek the people were building a bridge, but not being pas- sable, we crossed by a boat, and travelling along a very fertile banl:, about a mile, we reached Buffalo, at five o'clock in the even* ing. Here 1 stopped, and my agreeable travelling companions continued their journey to the eastward. Buffalo is handsomely, situated at the east end of lake Erie, where it commands a beautiful view of the lake, of Upper Cana- da, and fort Erie, and a great distance to the southward, which i» terminated by an elevated lofty country. The scite of the town ex- tends quite to the lake shore, but it is principally built on an emi- nence of about 30 feet, a little distance ; and to the south along the creek are handsome rich bottom lots, which are at present a little marshy, but will, when drained, be most valuable appendage* to this very bentitiful place. Bufialo was laid out for a town about five years ag(j, and is re- {Tularly disposed in streets and lots. The lots are from 60 to 100 feet deep, and sell from 25 to 50 dollars; and there are out-lots of 5 and 10 acres, worth at present from 10 to 25 dollars per acre. The population was by last census 365, it is now computed at 500, and is rapidly increasing. The buildings are mostly of wood, painted white, but there is a nuDiber of good brick houses, and some few of stone. There are four taverns, eight stores, two schools ; and a weekly newspaper has been recently established. The town is as yet too new for the introduction of any manufiicture% eace^ those of the domestic kind. The greater part of the people air fiinncrs and mechanics* I ifc-li' If rh. f-^3 ^ ^^.C b ,i / 486 TRAVELS IN The settlers here are most from the New England states, bat the town being on the great thoroughfare to the western coun- try, there is a general mixture. A considerable trade is constantly kept ■ tip by the influx and reflux of strangers, and such articles as are necessary for their accommodation are dear. House-rent is from 2 to 20 dollars per week ; wood is 1 dol- lar per cord, flour is 7 dollars per barrel, pork 6 dollars per cwt, beef 4 dollars, porter 6 dollars per dozen. Fish are very plenty and cheap. ' Boarding is about 3 dollars per week. The situation is quite healthy, and the seasons are much more mild and open than might be expected in that northern latitude; the effects of the southerly winds already noted are very apparent here. " -' ■■ ^•> ■' Buffalo creek rises by three considerable branches, about iO miles to the eastward, and after watering an extensive tract of coun- try, they unite about six miles from the town, where there is a con- siderable Jndian village, and flow into the lake by a slow current. It is navigable about tour miles, and it is proposed to run a pier in- to the lake at its outlet, and form a harbour, which would be a most important advantage to this part of the country. Upon the whole, I think this is likely to become a great settle- ment. It already commands an immense navigation, and its in- crease is guaranteed by the opening of roads in all directions, a great many of which must centre here. Already there is a turnpike road to New York, having the accommodation of a stage three times a week ; there is a good road to the falls of Nitigara, and thence through a considerable part of Upper Canada ; a turnpike road is projected to Philadelphia ; and from the increase of popu- lation to the westward, a good road must soon be made to Erie, and thence in different directions through the western country. There is a considerable settlement of Indians in the neighbour- hood of this place, and Buffalo is a sort of head* quarters for trans- acting Indian business ; in consequence of which frequent councils are held here, which have produced several very brilliant specimens of Indian intellect and eloquence.* 1. * Mr. Ward, my fcllow-travuller on the Ohio, was here in the preceding month of May. and attended a council, at which he heard two speeches delivered by one of the Indians, called Red Jackelv with such animation of gesture and force of language as perfectly a»- toniabed him. I have since got a translation of these extnordlnary qieeches, attested by « particular friend, and here present them to th* public atgeni^ne eSUiioiw of natural defence. V 4*' 1«* , «• NEW YORK. 487 s, bat coun- adc is angers, on are s 1 dol- 5r cwt., plenty h more atitude ; pparent bout 40 ofcoun- is a con- current. I pier in- i)e a most lat settle- d its in- jctions, a turnpike age three ara, and urnpike of popu- Erie, and ighbour- br trans- councils pecimens nth of May. the Indians, perfectly as- attested by of natural To cxplalh them, it is neccwary to Htate that the Indian! in this district, when they sold their lands, made ceruin reservations for themselves and their families to reside on. Two of tlictic reservations have been noticed, and there are several others, amounting in the whole to upwards of 200,000 acres. Tlie pre-emption right, namely, the right to pur- chase from the Indians, was sold by the Holland company to certain gentlemen in New York, and they sent a Mr. Richardson as agent to endeavour to make n bargain witlt tlia Indians. The missionary society of -New York appointed a Mr. Alexander on a mission to the Seneca Indians, to endeavour to convert them to Christianity ; and these two gen- tlemen addressed them on the subject of their respeotive missions, about the same time. The council was held at Buffalo, in May, 1811, and was attended by Mr. Granger, agent of the United States for Indian affairs, Mr. Parrish, Indian interpreter, and Mr. Taylor, the agent of the society of friends, for improving the condition of tlie Indians. Tied Jacket, who is called by the Indians Sagu-yu-whatta, which signifies Keeper awake, im answer to Mr. Richardson, spoke as follows : " Brother i We opened our ears to the talk you lately delivered to us, at our council fire. In doing imimrtant business it is best not to tell long stories ; but to come to it in a few words. We, tlierefure, shall not repeat your talk, wliich is fresh in our minds. We have well considered' it, and tlie advantages and disadvantages of your offers. We re- quest your attention to our answer, which is not from tite speaker alone, but from all the sachems and chiefs now around our council fire. " Brother ; We know that great men, as well as great nations having different inte- rests, have different minds, and do not see the same subject in the same light — but we hope «ur answer will be agreeable to you and to your employers. " Brother; Your application for the purchase of our lands, is to our minds very ex- traordinary. It has been made in a crooked manner ; you have not walked in the straight path pointed out by the great council of your natiuik Yau have no writings from our great fatlier the president. •' Brother ; In making up our minds, we have looked back, and remembered how th« Yorkers purchased our lands in former times. Hiey bought them piece after piece for a little money paid to a few men in our natien, and not to all our brethren ; oiir plant- ing and hunting grounds have become very small, and if we sell these, we know not where to spread our blankets. " Brother ; You tell us your employers have purchased of the council of Yorkers a right to buy our lands. We do not understand how this can be ; the lands do not belong to the Yorkers ; they are ours, and were given to us by the Great Spirit. " Brother t We think it strange that you should jump over tlic lands of our brethren in the east, to come to our council fire so far off, to get our lands. When we sold our lands in the east to the white people, we determined never to sell those we kept, which are as small as we can live comfortably on. " Brother ; You want us to travel with you, and look for other lands. If wc should sell our lands and move off into a distant country, towards the setting sun — We should be looked upon in the country to which we go as foreigners and strangers, and be despised by the red as well as the white men, and we should soon be surrounded by the white men, who will there also kill our game^ come upon our lands, and try to get them from us. " Brother : We are determined not to sell our lands, but to continue on them. We like them ; they are fruitful, and produce us corn in abundance, for the support of our women and cbildnn^ aad gra« «|idheilM for our cattle. ¥& /■Jf: i''wisher, keep away, and do not disturb us. " Brother; We do not worship the Grreat Spirit as the white men do, but we be- lievo that forms of worship arc indiflTerent to the Great Spirit — it is the offering of a sincere heart that pleases him ; and we worship him in this manner. According to your religion, we must believe in a Father and a Son, or we will not be happy here- after. We have always believed in a Father, and we worship him, as we were taught by our fathers. Your book says the Son was sent on earth by the Father — did all the people who saw the Son believe in him? No, they did not, and the consequences must be known to you, if you have read the book. " Brother; You wish to change our religion for yours : we like our religion, and do not want another. Our friends (pointing to Mr. Granger, Mr. Parrisb, and Mr. Taylor) do us great good— they counsel us ia our troublw— and instruct us how to * The appeOatm ftMii t» tkrgjfvun ly the Indiims. .; :..ff,> 1^'*=^5^* VVPBR CANADA. 4S9 token. Thi» CHAETER XCVI. BUtck Hockf'^Upper CanadOi — Chippawmff-^Falls of Niagara. October 28th. The weather being clear nnd agreeable, I left Bufi'ilu at 12 o'clock, and travelled in a north-west direction* by a very good rond, about 2 miles and a half, when I descend- ed a steep bank to Black Rock. There is a considerable settle- ment here along the side of the river, and many good stone houses have been recently built. There is a considerable settlement here along the side of the river, and many good stone bouses have been recently built The river, which is about a mile broad, is- sues from the lake as clear as crystal, and runs along a hard stony bottom with a QiHJestic current* A conhiderable settlement is oii the British side^ opposite to Black Rock ; and Fort Erie is hand- somely situated about a mile above. There is a ferry at this place, and a great intercourse between the two sides of the river. ' From the middle of the river there is an elegant view up the lake; and, at the time I crossed, I saw several vessels at anchor, and one or two at a wharf a little above Black Rock, which is found to be rather an inconvenient station, on account of tlie ra- pid current. • On reaching the Canada shore, the first indication of being in a different dominion was the red coats of some British soldiers, who were stationed in a small house by the way side. I rode up and conversed with them. They told me they belonged to the .4)1 St regiment, and were stationed at tliat place to keep a look out " after Ike billits" who were sometimes inclined to make a run to the American side. I thought from their language they were Scotsmen, but they told me they were from the north of England. The road proceeds along the bank of the river, and is elevated above the water seven or eight feet. On the British side there are rich settlements, all tlie way down, and I learned that the make ounelvcs comfortable. Our fHeiids tbe quakcrs do more than this— they givo 01 ploughs, and show us how to use them. They tell us we ore accountable beings, but do not say we roust change our religion. We are satisfied with what they do. " brother; For these reasons we cannot receire your offers— we have other things to do, and beg you to make your mind easy, and not troubl* o% lest our ^e^i» aboiUd be too much loaded, end tfy iurflq^blinl." 69 <>J1S • -,■■» , ., i!' i\ : M "J-}^ Wm^^frJ; .■"•* Jj^ W^^^^^ 'r, '"A • ll *^^^S % - ■ ".I'ySs^. »s u dx-uu^ ESfe^HHHIh'J^yiid »"*!Ci»W»v-^SW,^ *-^**v- ■l;^;^!,, . .;- a, ^^**!V'.rS^^^- " '^r <*>■ ■ 490 . TRAVELS IK inlmbitiints wero chiefly Germans, from Pennsylvania. On the American side there are very few Kt.tlementH, but they have com- menced, and it is supposed they wHl go on very rapidly. The river increases in breadth as it proceeds downward, and, about five miles from the ferry, it branches olF into two xlivisions, cm- bodying Grand Island, containing about 21>,000 acres of rich land, on which the Indian claim is not yet extinct, and of which the state of New York has the pre«cmption right. Below this is Navy Island, where the river agnin unites, and forms a spacious bay upwards of two miles broad. Near the middle of this bay Chippa- way creek falls into the river, and Chippaway village is situated on both sides of the creek, close by its outlet. I heard the sound of the falls about four or five miles above this place, and I could distinctly see the spray, rising like a cloud, and hear the waters roaring Avith a continued noise, like distant thunder. It was near fun-set when I arrived at Chippaway, but I could not sleep be- fore I enjoyed the sight of this astonishing cataract ; so, after be- speaking lodgings at the tavern, I proceeded towards it. Chippaway creek is a black muddy stream, and the river runs here with great velocity, which throws all the waters of the creek (owardfr the land i and they run along the bank, forming a re- n)arkable contrast with the adjoining pure water. The^bed of the Hver now recedes with a declivity that lowers the water about 50 feet in less than a mile distance, and its motion is accelerated to the velocity of 12 or 14> miles an hour. Here a small part of the river,, consisting principally of the waters of Chippaway creek, parts with the main stream, and winds between a small low island and 8 lofty bank, round which the road turns. On reaching the lower end of the island, the rapids appear in fall view; and an ustonihhing view it is, to behold ti sheet of water, nearly a mile broad, and very deep, tossing and tumbling amopg rocks and precipices for nearly half a mile, during which it fulls 52 feet, when It apparently sinks below the surface of the earth, and eludes yoQr view. The banks here seem to rise a little ; the country is pretty fer- tile, and there are a number of settlements. Being anxious to •ce the grand fell before it became dark, 1 hurried on as fast as a constant desire to view and admire the rapids would allow me. Near the foot of the small low island, the road takes a circuitous course found some plantations, and, losing the view (^ the rapids, ^ ;;^'r i I 'V\' u On the ave com- l!y. The id, about ions, em- rich land, ivhich the is Navy icimis bay y Chippa- 8 situated the sound d I could he waters t was near sleep be- , after be- river runs ' the creek ming a re- jbed of the r about 50 jlerated to part of the way creek, low bland aching the IV ; and an arly a mile rocks and lis 52 feet, earth, and pretty fer- mxious to as fast as allow me. circuitous the rapids, VPPRR CANADA. 491 affords a little time for meditation. On again reaching the bank, the whole of the up|K>r part of the falls come into view, which, with the rapids, the clouds of spray that a)nstant]y rise like smoke, and the tremendous roaring of the water, forms a scene awfully sub- lime. My eyes were rivctted to the spot, while 1 exclaimed *' Thwe arc Uiy gloriuu* works, Parent of good ! Aimighty ! Thine thin univvnal frame. — ^— these derlart Thy greatnem beyond thought, and power divine." I moved forward along the high bank nearly half n mile, in which every point presented a new and interesting view of this stupen- dous wonder of nature. At some of the last points where 1 stood, I wns right in front of the whole sheet of falling water. It is divided into two parts by an island, but the great volume is on the Canada side, and falls with a tremendous velocity, forming a curve, and thence called the horse-shoe fall. That on the A- mcrican side falls with a regular cascade, and a fragment of the island forms a comparatively very small fall between them. Hav- ing gazed upon this scene till near dark, I returned to Chippaway, viewing the rapids with delight, as I passed them ; and, looking through this grand scene to its almighty Author, *< I blessed the wonder-working God ct hi^^h;* the upper p«rt u about SO ANe late geographical works, it has been estimated at 137 fvet. The guide told me it was 170, and I have Rince conversed with a gentleman who plummed it from the Table rock, and found it to be 172. I saw the line in his possession, with the marks on it, and am convinced that the accuracy of this measurement may be relied on. f Until lately, the descent was very difficult, for want of a goed ladder. Tliat de- fect has now been supplied by the generosity of a lady from Rhode Island, who erect- ed an elegant ladder with side rails. The guide mentioqed her name, but I ' have for- got it. I beg leave, however, to tender the fair donor my portion of the public thanks. UPP"<< CANADA. 403 whole of thno hanging rocks will at tome period fall down with • treroendouK crosli. I'hc dreadful ngtuUon of the falling maM of waters, the tremendous noise, and the shaking of the rucks around you, add to thf uwful grandeur of this terrific scene. Having gax* ed on it fur some time, my Fonscs almost overpowered with won- der, wc retired, but I otlefi niopped by the wny to behold and admire; am) reaching th« tup of the ladder a little before sun-svt, the view was fwiiithed by the exhibition of a brilliant rainbow, elegantly painted in thevuluminous doudrt of rising spray. CHAPTER XCVII. ^''*- Upper Canada^ — Qfuenstanmy — Lexohtawn, ^HERE is n noble trait in the character of the mass of the A> merican people, that of independence. They place themselves on an equal footing with whoever they come in contact with. If they do any thing for you, they will have their price, and a good price too ; but it is not customary to take hire in a sneaking way ; they generally ask their price without leaving it to the generosity of the employer. Habits of subserviency, resulting, no doubt, from the opera* tion of the feudal system, are general aniong the peasantry of Europe, and they appear to have extended to Canada. It is a common thing, I find, in those who take a station to wait upon travellers, to leave the payment to the pleasure of the company : the practice is on unpleasant one to both parties. To the receiver it operates in some instances to prevent him from getting a rea- sonable compensation for his services, and in others he will get too much. To the payer it is more unpleasant, because it sub- jects him to an uncertainty as to the extent of the compensation oft fered. I found myself in that unpleasant situation at the fall". In a case where I could not bring the person whose services 1 had engaged to a tangible point, I gave what I considered rights but might Very possibly be abused for not giving more ; that being a common custom with those kind of subservient gentry, who de- pend on the pleubure of the company. When we arrived at the main road, I felt very chilly, afler my dueking below the iall«; and went* accompanied by the guide» t* y.i#^&^ ►I' / Vi -: ^,^::iyJ> ^<^^>*»«iv,-.5«?ir-*'^' :.■ 494 TRAVELS IN n":i a Canadian inn, to get some spirits. As I did not ab'ght, they brought the whiskey-bottle and a glass, depending, of course, on the pleasure of the company. I drank part of ? glass, and the guide as much ; in all, about half a gill. I had no coin less than a quarter of a dollar, and I handed it to the host, that he mimaking is at present very fashionable in the United States, and this appears a beautiful scite for a town. The public ground belonging to the garrison is exactly a mile square, and is perfectly level, with an elevation of 30 feet above the river and lake, both of which abound with excellent fish ; and a lit- tle bay opposite the garrison makes a very good harbour. But it is to be observed that no town can flourish without commerce, either foreign or domestic. Foreign commerce has been overdone, and commercial towns must suffer by the re-action. The towns, there- fore, that are most likely to increase, for some time to come, arc such as are situated in a rich country, capable of being thickly sct- '14 > t- fRSl '^ 498 BRITISn POSSESSIONS. tied, ami having favourable positions for the increase of inanufac> tures. Pittsburg, Lexin||rton, in Kentucky, and Zanesville, in O- hio, may be cited as examples. The business of mere buying and iielling is in some degree precarious ; because, though it may be and is often convenient to society, yet it is not absolutely necessary. It only transfers property, it adds nothin*; to the common stock ; but the men who raise food, and build houses, and make clothing, hold A most honourable station in society, because their labour is essenti- ally necessary. We cannot live without it. . ■••■ y -V ' ^. AU is the gift of industry, wbate'er ■ ,, Exalts, embellishes, or sweetens life. CHAPTER XCVIII. British possessions, — Newfoundland^ — Cape Bretony — Nova Scotia,-^ New Brunswick, — Lower Canada, — Upper Canada. I MENTIONED in the last chapter that I procured what intelli- gence I could regarding Newark. On my return to Lcwistown I procured a great deal of intelligence regarding Canada generally; and before quitting this part of the country I shall take a short review of THE BRITISH POSSESSIONS IN NORTH AMERICA, Selecting the most material facts from works of British authority. Mr. Pinkerton remarks that ** those parts of North America - which still belong to Britain are extensive, and of considerable im- portance, though so thinly peopled, and in $uch a disadvantageous climate, that they sink into insignificance when compared with the great and flourishing territories of the United States. The inhabit- ants of the states have been estimated at five millions (they are now upwards of seven ;) while those of the British possessions scarcely exceed 200,000 souls,* and these chiefly French and natives." The Rritisli lay ciaim to a vast extent of territory, comprehending from the boundary of the United States to the north pole, and across the continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean ; but as there are no settlements except towards the St. Lawrence, it is unnecessary to take a view of any other than those near that river, comprehending * Se« the table ai the end of this chapter. '1 r.: ■: V. BRITISH POSIEMIOMI. * . #99 Upper and Lower Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Scotiot Cape Bre- ton, and Newfoundland. The most important of these are the Ca^ vadas, and of these Upper Canada is an object of the greatest im* portance to the United States, on account of the great extent to which it stretches along the American territory. I shall therefore confine my account chiefly to this province, previous to which 1 shall just j^lance at the others. Newfoundland is an island situated on the east side of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between north latitude 46** 50' and 51* 50', and be- tween 52° 20' and 59** 12' west longitude from London. It is 347 miles long, and about 300 broad ; but both length and breadth are very unequal. It is subject to dreadful storms, and is almost con- stantly enveloped in fogs, clouds, and darkness ; and having a bar- ren soil, the inhabitants are few, and chiefly devoted to the fisheries. The chief towns are St. John, Placentia, and Bonavista. Cape Breton isbituated between Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, and is divided from the latter by a very narrow strait. It is about 100 miles long by 30 broad. Some beds of valuable coal have been found, and the island is well watered with small streams ; but the ffoii is a mere moss, and unfit for cultivation.^ The climate is cold and foggy. The chief trade is in furs and tnl produce of the fish- eries. The chief towns arc Sidney and Louisburg* Nova Scotia is a considerable peninsula, lying between 43* 40 and 45** 50' north latitude, and is about SOO miles long, by about 80 of medial breadth. Ihe country along the coast is rugged and stony ; but there are some good spots of land upon the rivers in the interior of the country ; and there are valuable mines of coal, lime- stone, plaster of Paris, and iron ore. This province is settled by French, New England, and British people. Halifax is the capital, and contains about 15,000 inhabitants. The island of St. John, 60 miles long, and SO-broad, lies to the north of Nova Scotia, and has some good soil, and several rivers^ It contains about 5000 inhabitants. New Brunswick extends from Nova Scotia to Canada, and from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the District of Maine. There are several rivers in this province, of which the chief is St. John's, running a course of about 400 miles, and there is some good land on their banks. St. John's, containing about 100 inha* bitants, is the capital. The whole of the provinces of New Bruns- wick, Nova Scotia, and settlements attached to them, are computed to contain about 50,000 inhabitants. 4^ J^-:A^^^^SItmfta^t. X: 600 nmsH posbcssioms. Lower Canada lies on both sides of the rirer St. Lawrence, be- tween 45® and 52** north latitude, and extends westward to the ri- ver Utawas, on the west side of Montreal. A considerable part of it borders on the district of Maine, 30 miles on new Hampshire, 95 on Vermont, and 35 on New York. The face of the country is rather level, and contains a great denl of good soil, producing grass, grain, and tobacco in abundance. The settlements extend mostly along the banks of the river, and the greater part of the country is covered with wood, which is rather of a small growth, except in the meadows, where the trees are large. The climate is very severe, and the heat and cold go to great ex- tremes, and sometimes in very rapid succession. The thermome- ter rises in summer to 98", and in winter the mercury freezes. The snow begins to fall in November, and continues on the ground till May, when the summer heat is almost instantaneous. In January and February the frost is so intense that there is danger of being frost-bitten, and to guard against it the inhabitants cover the whole body with furs, except the eyes and nose. • * The population is computed at about 130,000; and they have a very considerable tra^, which chiefly centres in the two great Ca- nadian towns, Quebec and Montreal. Quebec is the capital, and stands on a rock, on the north side of the St. Lii wrence, 320 miles from the sea. The town is well forti- fied, being considered almost impregnable. There is sufficient depth of water to float vessels of any burden to Quebec The inhabitants are supposed to be above 10,000, of whom two-thirds are of French extraction. .^^ ^ ,; . . Montreal is situated on an island in the St. Lawrence, 170 miles above Quebec; and is a handsome town, containing about 6000 inhabitants. A very considerable portion of the trade of the river, and these towns, is derived from Upper Canada and the United States; and the exports, chiefly of grain, flour, provisions, potash, timber, navul stores, furs, &c. have of late been very great. The imports are chief- ly British goods, with which the inhabitants contrive to supply a considerable part of the United States, by smu^ling ; and the A- mericans, in return, smuggle tea, coffee. Sic. to the Canadians. Learning is at a low ebb. Mr. Pin:.- viun says " the French wo- men in Canada can generally read ami write, and are thus superior to the men ; but both are sunk in ignorance and superstition : and be English language is confined to the few British settlers." k,^-^*^ BRITISHf ^08SC8SIONS. 501 Upper Canada extends from Lower Canada to the lake of Winnipeg, in long. 97**, and comprehends an immense extent and variety of territory, of which that portion stretching between the great lakes, and along the banks of the St. Lawrence, is the best ; and taken as a whole, it is superior to any other part of the British possessions in North America. The settlements are chiefly confined to the banks of the river and lakes, and present a most extensive, and in some places a thickly settled frontier to the United States. About 180 miles border on the state of New York, and the lakes opposite to it ; 45 on Lake Erie opposite the state of Pennsylvania ; 1 50 op- posite the state of Ohio ; and 300 on the rivers and lakes oppositip the Michigan Territory. The inhabitants arc composed of French, English, and Scot- tish, and a great many have emigrated from the United States within these last 20 years, principally of Dutch and German ex- traction. The whole of the inhabitants have been estimated at 40,000, but they are probably double that number, and as thil district enjoys a pretty mild climate, and good soil, especially a- long the lakes, they are likely to increase. York, the capital, is a small pleasant town, containing a g0€># many frame houses ; but the land is rather low and unhealthy In its neighbourhood. Newark, already noticed, contains about 500 inhabitants, and many of the buildings are handsome, being composed of brick and stone. It has 2 churches, a jail, and academy; 6 taverns, and about 20 dry-goods stores ; where every article can be had oh as good terms as in Montreal. The fort here is garrisoned with 500 men, of the 41st regiment; and the remainder of the regi- ment are distributed along the banks of the lake. Queenstown contains about 300 inhabitants. It has six stores and several taverns, and a considerable trade along the lakes. Kingstown, at the east end of take Ontario, is a handsome fit- tie place, and (he farmers in its neighbourhood are said to live &i comfortably as they do in New England. .^ Maiden, at the west end of lake Erie, consists of al^Diit'lOO houses, and has a garrison, and a great trade with the Indiaif ' tribes. That part of the province which stretches between the lakes, 1 ying between the 42d and 45th degree of north latitude, is by /il 1 *■ (':. U" 'i^jt m-: f!^ — -■■- -^wfc.--«--'-"S«U»*;,^.^:^_;- ';^r """■■"'.'. ( • i w V iiJ. 1 . &0S BRITISH P088BSSIONS. far the most vauablej and enjoys a comparatively temperate cH» mate. The western winds, already noticed, prevail; and the winters are generally more xnild than at Phikdelphia or New York, while the summers are coul and pleasant The part of it that I saw on the north side of l^ke £ri^ and between the lakes^ is beautiful. It will in all probability become a thickly-settled country ; and to it, and the adjoinjog states, will the inhabitants in the lower districts continue to be chiefly indebted for their trade. Agriculture is pretty well understood, and the produce is abun- dant. A good deal of domestic manufacture is carried on, and there are some carding machines, and a few coarse woollens made; but tbey are not encouraged, the genius of the government being directed to secure as many importations as possible from England. The French, and it may be added the Dutch, settled here, are very ignorant, and set little value upon education. Intelligence is chiefly confined to the British merchants and Yankee settlers. There are a number of schools, but they are not adapted to the mass of the people, nor does the genius of the leading men tend that way. There is a considerable desire to monopolize knowledge ^ well as riches and power, and the aristocracy, being backed by the military, have more power here probably than in England, Tlie laws appear fair and equal, but there is a great deal of un' derhand management and intrigue; and neither independence of sentiment nor freedom of speech or of the press are encouraged ; indeed they are hardly tolerated ; while many of the military ofii- cers are haughty and overbearing in the highest degree. The subject of war between the United States and Britain be- ing the t(^ic of conversation, I made very minute inquiry, so as to learn the sentiments of the people here regarding it. The re- snit of the best information I could procure was, that 1000 men would be suflS.cient, along with the militia, to protect the frontier on the Niagara river ; and were 5000 men to be sent into the province with a proclamation of independence, the great mass of the people would join the American government. The following summary of the population and trade of Canada^ is copied from a late British newspaper. Population about 330,000 .!% :ri 1 ^ MIW YORK. Exports. Fun and skim Wheat, flouFi buscuit, and grain Lumber Pot and Pearl asher Beef and pork Sundries i i'-t itin^ \ > '.. \' 503 iff. 150,000 ; * 136,500 ■ '' 556,500 ' 223,000 30,000 16,000 Total jfi. 1, 11 2000 Imports about Vessels employed Tons of shipping . W:. 660 144,000 CHAPTER XCIX. j&.I,000,000 . i/y* 'yuK- Leave LevoistoWHt — Devil's Hole, — Grand Niagara, — Fort Schlosser, JUR. and Mrs Miller having on the preceding eTeniag agreed to accompany me to the falls, on the American side, they called fo^ me this morning, and we set out at 10 o'clock. As we passed through Lewistown I procured the following information regarding this new settlement. Lewistown is laid out on a handsome plan, occupying a mile square, and a considerable piece of ground is appropriated to pub- lic purposes. It is subdivided into blocks of three chains, each containing three lots, and they sell at present for from 100 to 300 dollars. It is gradually building up with brick, frame, and stono houses; and is well supplied with fine water, which renders it very comfortable. Being at the bottom of the portage on the American side^ it is the seat of considerable trade, which is likely to increase. Twenty vessels belong to the lake navigation here, and 2300 bushels of salt were landed at Lewistown last season. The quan- •tiry ot'flour, groin, provisions, and peltry that are shipped, b con- siderable ; and for every article of produce there is a brisk de- mand, and a good price. Wheat sells for 1 dollar per bushel, flour 7 dollars per barrel, pork 6 dollars per barreL The coun- try is improving in the neighbourhood, and land is worth from 7 ■ij" ki V'p/*','-'' j s \i t\ iM TRAVELS IN to 9 dollars per acre. Merino sheep Imvc been introduced, and lire doing well ; and there arc considerable domestic manuiactures, though none on a large scale. Aboat a mile from Lewistown we reached the foot of the as- cent which leads to the table land above; and I frequently stopped by the way, to admire the fine view, and to examine the mechanism of this part of the country ; which clearly demonstrates that the fulls were once here, and have, through the lapse of ages, worn a passage eight miles upwards to where they now are. They mtt»t have been successively at every point of the intermediate ~ ppgce. The river below this holds a placid, though pretty rapid course, to the lake, the surface being only 15 or 20 feet below the banks ; and it is from one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide ; but above this it is confined within a narrow channel, the motion is accelerated to a great velocity, and it is rough and turbulent, the probable effect of a very ragged bottom, which the foils would make in their ascent. The banks, nearly perpendicular, are about SOO feet high, and composed of hard limrjtone above, and schistus below ; and this arrangement continues all the way to the present fall. I shall h«ire transcribe Volney's remarks on thb subject. ** To "Hhoae who closely examine the situation of the scene, it is plain the fall commences here, and that it has sawed through the lay- ers of the rock, and thus hollowed out its channel. The chasm has been gradually worn a^'ny, from age to age, till it reached the place where the fall now appears. This operation has continued sbwly, but incessantly. The ohlest settlers in the neighbourhood recollect a period when the bank of the fall was several paces for- ward. In the winter of 1797-^8, the great thaw, and consequent jBoods, Jposened great masses, which confined the course of the water."* * Volney expressses a^wisb that the government would cause an exact account to b* taken of the present Htnte of the cataract, that, being compared with other statement! now not so necessary as when Volney visited these fallh The country is rapidly settling up around them, and many people visit them yearly, some of whom will occasionally publish their travels, so that all facts and circumstan- ces regarding them wijl be minutely put upon record. To me it is very obvious that they hmw, to use Volney's expcession, sawed a passage through a body of very hard rock, •ight miks in length ; nd it is perfectly reasonable to conclude that tl>e operation is 1^, luccd, and nufacture«, of the as- frequently Kamine the imonstrates tse of ages, now are. itermediate retty rapid below the mile wide; the motion turbulent, falls would r, are about ind schistus the present ject. ««To it is plain gh thelay- The chasm reached the s continued ghbourhood 1 paces for- 1 consequent mrse of the ct account to b« >ther statement that may here- ted these fallsk isit them yearly, nd circumstan- bvioug that they very hard rock, tiie operation U KRW YORK. 503 On reaching the summit of iho table land, at^crot sodff^^gh, we had a fine view of the plain and river belu\\ of lake C <^ario» York, Newark^ Qucenstown, and Lewistown. The soil abo\ ^ is dif- ferent from that below ; it has a larger portion of vegetable mould ; the timber is larger, and exhibits greater variety ; and every appear- ance indicates a state of greater maturity, and consequently of greater antiquity. I consider the soil here better thaih that below, and I would prefer this situation ai a place of residence ; but the constantly going on. It cannot be otlierwtse ; and it is clear that they will, in pro> cew of time, taw a passage through the rocks 20 miles upwards, and drain Laka Erie. But this must be a very slow process, though it is inevitably certain, and room of the inhabitants, who live 2 or 300,000 yean hence, may view the falls Iwlow De- troit, and refcr to works of the present day for proof that they onae existed at this place ; and that a lake (lake Eiie,) 300 miles long and 70 broad, existal in tlio inter- mediate space, no trace of which will then be seen. Mr. Schultz, a late intelligent and agreeable traveller, has given a very correct de- scription of these falls ; and, as might be expected, is led into a train of reasoning re- garding their duration and progiess, for which he has been censured by his reviewers, as attempting to duiitroy the Mosaic history of man, and with it divine revelation. But it should be recollected that revelation consists of two parts, verbal and natural, of which the last is by far tlie most important, as Dr. Paley has demonstrated in his ele- gant treatise an natural theology ; and some of the ancient writers in scripture seem to have been of the same opinion. " The heavens declare the glory of God, and the iir^ niament showeth his handy-work : there is no speech nor language where tlieir voice is not heard." " Tlirough faith we understand that the worlds were framed by the woid of God." " Come, behold the works of the Lord." " In his hand are thedecp places of the earth ; the strength of the hills is his also. The sea is his, and he made it ; and his hands formed the dry land. O, come, let as worship and bow down ; let us kneel before the Lord, our maker." In beholding the works of God in the creation, it is one of the attributes of our nature to reason and to reflect upon them ; and it is a proof of integrity of principle, and independence of sentiment, to state candidly the impressions that are made upon the mind by the investigation. Tlie writer may be mis- taken ; but if he has communicated his ideas in respectful language, he should not b« • blamed on that account, and a mistake of the judgment should not be construed into an evil intention. Mr. Schultz is not the only person, who, from the appearances of nature, has been induced to assign a much greater degree of antiquty to the world than what is assigned by the popular opinion ; and I really do not see that the idea at all militates against fverbal) " revelation," or " the Mosaic history of man." The present system of chronology is, if I mistake not, deduced frofn the Mosaic account cf the creation, by inference only. Moses simply says, " In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth," He does not say when the beginning was ; and, for any thing that appears in his writings, it may be with as great propriety fixed at 27,000 as 6000 years. For my own part, I believe the world to have existed from a space of time infinitely beyond either, although I think it extremely^'probtdile that the present race of . men has not existed long beyond 6000 yean. / 1 f % -: ''i'^'-ii m 506 TRAVELS IN 41 i Ml h f ' plain ii settling moiit rapidly, cliicfly on account of the convenicncy of the watnr. After travelling nbout fciur inilen, we came to the river bank, which woH HO Htcip tliHt I cuuld throw u btonc into the water at lcn»t 850 feet diiitiint. We Htopptd a few minutes at a sniall diHtillery, ■ belonging to u Scotitmun ; allcr which, we again approached the bank of the river, at a place called Devil's Mole, a frighttul cavity, where I was toKI a party of 50 or 60 British soldiers hod been pursueil by the Indinns, and only 1 1 cscapetl alive. Not far from hence there is a whirlpool on the opposite side, which, as 1 did not see, I shall describe in the words of Volney. *' 1 had an oppor- tunity of visiting the ravine (in which tho river runs,) at a spot where a large bay is formed in one of its side«>. Here the waters have fomieil a deep recess or whirlpool, in which are entangled nil the floating bodies, which cannot go any further. We observe, ^ at this place, the river, checked by the stubborn rock, carries its fall over several points, and appears to search out the weakest spot, through which it continues itn way." We heard the sound of the fulls vcrj' (]i!>tinctly when we were four or five miles distant, .'uid, arriving within a mile, we had a lull view of them, and pulsed on to a recent settlement inmiediate- }y above them, by the side of the rapids, where a town has lately been laid out, callcxl Grand Niagara. Here we left our horses and walked down to the falls ; but the ehect of falling water is small here, compared with tlie horse-shoe iall ; and being interrupted by large masses of rocks below, the perpendicular descent is not near so great. llie bank is so low here that the water occasionally touches the grass in its descent, and you can walk to the very margin with the greatest safety. I walked 'here so close to the edge, that I could wash my hands in the water while in the act of falling. There is a gooti new ladder a little below the fails on this side, % near which, from an eminence, we had an extended view of the whole falls, which, though not so eminently grand as on the Canada side, where you get right in front of them, is yet very superb. 1 he channel between the shore and the island is about 250 yards broad, and the descent by the rupids, previouai to making the grand pitch, is about 50 feet. The river is two miles and a half broad at Cliippaway creek. At the lalls it is contracted to three-quarters of a mile. 3* i^l^^&d&t- NRW YORK. 507 rWlow the fiilli it it contracted to about one-third of a mile. Feet. The descent from Chippaway creek to the head of the vnpids diittnnt one mile, is 40 The descent in the ropidn, half a mile long, ii ' 53 The grand pitch at the table rock, is .170 ToUl 262 The whole descent from lake Erie to lake Ontario has been esti- mated at 4.'>0 feet ; and in the distance In-'tween Fort Schlosscr and Devil'H Hole, it huH been found by actual measurement to be HIS ieet. ' ^-.' , . '. . . .( From the best information I could procure, 1 am inclined to make the following calculation on the descent of the river between the lakes: « . . , Feet. From lake Erie to Chippaway 16 From Chippaway to the bottom of the grand pitch) as above 262 From the grand pitch to Devil's Hole • .. 110 From Devil'R Hole to Lewistewn 5G From Lewi^town to lake Ontario C '. Total 4S0 ,r It has been noticed that the bed of the river above the fulls m composed of a stratum of very hord liuieetone, mixed with flint. Beluw tliis there is a stratum of very sufi slate, which, when rub^ bed in a wet state, assumes the appearance of blue clay. This, of course, decays much faster than the stratum above, and accounts for the large cavity below the fulls; and the hard rock above, ap- propriately termed the table rock, projecting over the base, renders the pitch perpendicular. In the middle of the stream, on the Canada side, the great accumulation of waters breaks down this table rock faster than it is broken at the sides, which accounts for the curve in the stream, termed, fi'om its appearance, the horses shoe fall. At grand Niagara there are erected a grist-mill, a saw-mill, a fulling-mill, a carding and roving machine; and several other mills are projected. The water is brought out of the river above i -i ■"""1 r-"~— -"'Sr*.- .•*'-'-«Vi'«*-««'i ■■"■- rm i^r^ fiOS TRAVELS IN the rapids, and as the source is inexhaustible, and the fall about 50 feet, mills land machinery, to a very great extent, can be erected here. The country round is fertile and beautiful, so that I think it probable this will become a very large settlement. It will not probably increase with the rapidity of some towns merely commer- cial ; but it will have a more steady progress, and be much less liable to re-action. " ' , ' There is a bar across this branch of the river, at the head of the rapids, by which the people sometimes go to the island, opposite Grand Niagara ; but it is considered rather dangerous. A boat loaded with salt and a canoe v/ere carried over the falls not long since. The boat got adrift about five miles above, and was carried down by the current. There were four men in it, one of whom i>aved himself by jumping overboard, and swimming ashore with the help of an oar. The other three kept by the boat, and were, with it, dashed to pieces among the rapids, and finally carried over the awful precipice. Some of the fragments of the boat and casks were found below the falls; and one of the dead bodies was found, in a very mangled state, on lake Ontario, 11 miles from land. The canoe was carried over with two men in it, and one of the dead bodies was found below with both legs off. Ducks and geese are sometimes carried over ; and though they save themselves from utter destruction by flight, they are found below so Ftunned that they cannot fly, and are caught with ease on the banks. There is a fine fishery in the water below the falls and in the rapids. Having stopped some time at Grand Niagara, we went to a ta- vern at fort Schlosser, where we passed the night. The subject of navigable canals having of late excited a great degree of attention in the United States, I resolved, at setting out, to pay a little attention to it, und have accordingly noticed it occasionally in the course of this work. From an early investi- gation of the subject, it appeared to me, that a canal of much im- portance could be made between this place and Lewistown, so as to continue the chain of communication from the river St. Law- rence along the lakes. There is a natural harbour formed at fort Schlosser by an eddy in the river, and the ground is pretty level to the extremity of the land above Lewistown. An ample supply of water could be procured from the river, to* make up for the waste in descending the locks ; so that it is perfectly practicable to MSW YORK. 509 ii„ make a canal. The distance is about nine miles, and the canal would require to be sufficiently large to admit of sloop navigation. But it appears, by a late survey and report of commissioners ap- pointed by the state of New York, that the utility of such a canbl may be superceded by a more profitable line to run between the Niagara river and Albany. I shall, therefore, here merely tran- scribe the estimate for making a canal at this place, from the secretary of the treasury's report on canals and roads, and defer a further consideration of the subject until I reach Utica or AU bany, when I shall have travelled over the greater part of the ground through which it is proposed the canal shall run. ** The fall from lake Erie to lake Ontario has been already stated at 450 feet. A company had been incorporated by the state of New York for the purpose ofopenmga canal at this place, but it does not appear that any thing ever was attempted after the survey had been made. The intention seems to have been to open a canal navigation for boats only, from Fort Schlosser to Devii'b Hole. The lake itself and Giles' creek would have sup* plied the water, and the expense was estimated at 437,000 dollars. ** It is however, evident that the canal, in order to be as emi- nently useful as the nature of the undertaking seems to require, should be on such a scale as to admit vessels which can navigate both lakes. Considering the distance, which, in that case, must be extended to about 10 miles, and the lockage of 450 feet, it is not believed that the expence can be estimated at less than 1,000,000 dollars." f'li. ,»i nrn, so as CHAPTER C. • Leave Fori Schlossa-y — Toneaoanta creik, Batavia. J^OVEMBER Ist. The morning was cool and foggy. I part- ed with my friends at nine o'clock, and set forward on my jour- ney. At a short distance from the tavern where I lodged, I pass- ed Fort Schlosser, or rather the scite of it; for nothing now re- mains but the under part, sufficiently prominent to distinguish what was its form and dimensions. From thence to Tonewanta creek is 12 miles, and the road runs near the side of tlic river all the way. On this rpad there is 5i0 TBAVELS IN a fine view of the river, of Grand Island, and the Canada shore. There is a small island at the mouth of the Tonewanta creek, which is here joined by another stream called Ellicott's creek. The river is here above half a mile ya\.]e, and the east bank i» mostly level rich land. Having crossed the creek by a wooden bridj^e, I left the Buffa- lo road. I perceived a new line of road, cut through the woods, leading toward Batavia, but I was informed it wns impassible, and took an old path which passed a considerable way along the south bank of Ellicott's creek, here a slow deep stream, with very fertile banks. On leaving the creek I travelled through the woods, four miles, by the worst road I had ever seen, before 1 came to any house, and I then found a few poor settlements with- in about half a mile of each other, all the way to the turn- pike, about six miles from the mouth of Tonewanta creek. The road was in . some places so bad, that my horse sometimes sunk to the knees, and at one time it was with considerable dif- ficulty that I got it disengaged. The settlers whom I spoke with were nearly all sick, a natural effect in the first settlement of a low swampy country ; but the lands here are rich, and when drain- ed will form a good situation. When I reached the turnpike road, I was quite surprised to find the country so well settled. Not many years ago it was an entire wilderness ; now the houses are so thick along the road, that the traveller is never out of sight of one, and inns are to be found at the end of every two or three miles. The road runs a- long a sort of limestone ridge, and to the north the soil is com- posed of a fine black vegetable mould, which raises grain and grass in profusion. About a mile and a half from where I entered on the turnpike I crossed Ellicott's creek, here a pretty, clear stream, having falls and mills not far from the road. I was informed that the lands on the road side are laid out in lots, of half a mile in front by a mile bock, each containing 320 acres. They are all taken up, and most of them are under cultivation. The price is from 6 to 18 dollars, according to quality and degree of improvement. A great numbei: of the settlers here are Germscns, from near Lan- caster, Pennsylvania. In my progress I met sevei*nl families moving to the westwfird, and a number of travellers, froiti distant places, in quest of land^ i . M. .,,,»^^»-*MH. 4 i * '< K, >*>.#^^-*'- **.«>. -^tw^.^1,.,- NEW Yonic. 511 J stopped at dark at a tavern, 19 miles from Buffalo. I was there informed that the country was mostly settled by people from Penn- sylvania, who were good farmers, and though they looked poor, they generally had a good deal of money. At the early pnrt of the settlement, the country had been a good deal troubled with bears and wolves, but they had now disappeared, and sheep hiid been introduced, and were thriving well. Lnnds are held un- cleared at from live to seven dollars, on the road ; a little back at three dollars. Last spring they took a sudden rise, which had checked the progress of settlement, the new settlers passing over to New Connecticui ; and this will continue to be the case unless the price be reduced. The landlord had been on Grand Island, iu the Niagara river, which he describes as a body of el^ellent land. November 2d. I set forward on my journey at six o'clock; the morning was cloudy, with a slight frost. I travelled six miles to breakfast, through a low muddy tract of land. Part of the road was a causeway of timber, and very rough . The tavern where I stopped was a neat clean house, and announced comfort and good cheer. On entering the breakfast room, a gentleman dressed in black sat at table, and frequently viewed roe with such a gracious smile in his aspect, that it brought to my recollection the " sweet voices and smiling faces" mentioned by Red Jacket. At last» breaking silence, he accosted me. " Are you from New York, pray, sir ?" " Yes sir," replied I. After some common-place conversation, he observed, " New York seems to me to be highly favoured ' ith divines." — As I object to the titles of the Almighty being applied to any set of men, I wished to waive the subject ; but he seemed determined to improve the time, and ran on with a variety of observations on the clergy of New York, and circum- stances connected with the clerical profession generally; and, rising up, he repeated with much emphasis the charge of the apostle Paul to Timothy, which having finished, he called for his horse, and rode off. I learned that he was a missionary preache)', and i« probably the same whom Red Jacket addressed in Mny last. After breakfast I continued my journey, through a level coun- try, abounding with small swamps, but the soil was good; and 10 miles from the tavern reached Tonnewanta creek, which I passed by a bridge, and travelled along its left bank fuur miles to Batavia, of which the elegant court-house has a beautiful appearance nt a distance. :. • ■. ■- ■ ■< ^*« J A:. i y wi'sa ;.>».' i; f • 5]S TRAVELS IN Batavia being the place for transacting the business of the Hol- land land company, I waited on Mr. EUicott, the agent, who favoured me with a great variety of useful information. This; district, commonly called the Holland Purchase, extends fi'om Lake Ontario to the Pennsylvania line on the south, and from Pennsylvania line on the west, to the banks of the Gcncssee on the east. Its extreme length from east to west is about 96 miles, and the breadth from north to south is nearly as much ; but the lakes and Upper Canada cut off a large portion from the square on the west side, and a considerable por- tion is cut off on the north-cast side by other purchases towards the Genessee, river. The remainder amounts to about 6200 square miles, or nearly 4,000,000 acres; but from this are to be deducted the Indian reservations, and the New York state reser- vation, making together about 250,000 acres, leaving to this com- pany 3,750,000, being by far the largest tract of land ever held by any land company in this country. - ^ The general configuration of the country may be inferred from the account of that part through which I travelled. Towards the borders of the state it is hilly ; from thence to within eight miles of lake Ontario, it is a high plain, in most places undulating, and agreeably uneven; in others nearly level: to the north of the ridge, eight miles from lake Ontario, it is almost quite level to the lake. The soil is generally fertile, the whole being nearly similar to that described, except in the southern district, where it is rather rough. It seems to be rather defective in minerals, but is abun* dantly supplied with springs and streams of water ; and there are several salt-springs, and some air and oil-springs. The Holland company have adopted very judicious measures m settling up the lands, and have expended vast sum& of money on roads, bridges, buildings, and improvements ; but the country is now rapidly settling up, and the purchase is likely to turn out a very favourable speculation. The settlers are mostly from New England, and they give the tone to the manners and habits of the people, which are nearly as- similated to those of the New England states, though they are interspersed with Germans, and with emigrants from Ireland and Scotland, llie inhabitants are mostly farmers and mechanics; there are no manufactures on a large scale, but there aro a great NEW YORK. 513 'f t^uniber of carding machines, and the people mostly make theii' own clothin;3(. There are no reserves for schools ; but education is pretty well attended to by the inhabitants, who, whenever 10 families are settled near each other, associate and procure a school-master. The district is divided into five counties, contain- ing 23,557 inhabitants. There are no towns of any importance in the district. The country houses exhibit a similar appearance to those in New Eng- land, being built of wood, and painted white. Many of them are beautiful, and display an elegant taste. The country is well supplied with pretty good roads, of which the great state road, already mentioned, is the chief. There are abundance of good taverns by the way, which accommodate pas- sengers on reasonable terms. The princip.il market is on the lake, and it is believed by the people here that it will always continue to be so ; they seem, so far as I have yet collected their sentiments, to consider the projected canal as of no importance to them ; and the most prevalent opinion, indeed, is that it is impracticable, and that the scheme will be abandoned. At present the emigrants who are pouring into the country and travelling to the westward, take up a great part of the surjilus produce. The present price of the company's lands is 3 dollars 50 cents per acre, of which 5 per cent, is payable in cash, and the remainder, being divided into 6 instalments, is payable at 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 years, with interest for the last 6 years ; but if the purchaser neg- lects to make certain improvements the first year, he is then subject to pay. interest from the date of sale. The above, however, is only ihe general retail price to settlers; there are many tracts which would be sold for less : and a .colony of settlers who could purchase a whole townshi}) could be accommodated on favourable terms. Twenty per cent, discount is allowed for cash. Batavia consists of about 50 houses, a court-house, 4 taverns, 4 stores, and a grist mill. It was laid out in lots of 20 rods in front, by 1 mile deep, and sold originally for 5 dollars per acre, the pur- chaser being bound to clear 5 acres in front the first year ailer the purchase. In consequence of the decay of so mueh vegetable mat- ter, it was at first unhealthy in the summer and fall; but of late it has been healthy. This last summer, however, there were some ca- ses of typhus ferer ; but not of a very fatal tendency, and it did qpt ^read. ^*/ U i i „:5 -i-nT{£^. M 5:4 TRAVELS lie Farmers ami meclutntcs arc best adapted to the country, and if they are industrious they are sure to succeed. A farmer can get u quarter section of land, iCO acres, for 560 dollars, with eight years to pay it. If he is iiidustriouis he may have the whole cleared and cnltivatcHl liko a garden by the end of that time; when, in conse^ cjucnce of the rise on property, by the increase of population, and the cultivation by hh individual industry, his land may be worth 50 dollars per acre, or 8000 dollars ; besides his stock of cattle, &c., which may be worth half as much more. Mechanics are well paid for their labour; carpenters have 1 dollar per day and their boanl; if they board themselves, 1 dollar 25 cents. Other trades have in proportion, and living is cheap. Flour is about 5 dollars per bar- jcl, beef 4 cents per lb., fowls I2)j cents each, fish are plenty and cheap. A mechanic can thus earn as much in two days as will main- tain a laniily for a week ; and by vesting the surplus in houses and lots in a judicious manner, he may accumulate money as fast as the farmer, and both may he independent and happy. Indeed, these two cliisses cannot too highly prize the blessings they enjoy in this country, nor be sufficiently grateful to the almighty Disposer of all events, for casting their lot in a land where they have advantages so far transcending what the same classes have in any other. I know there are many who bold a different opinion ; but I must take the liberty to dissent from it, and the reader who has travelled with me thus far, will allow that my opinion is not founded either on a par- tial or prejudiced view of the subject j it is deduced from plain un- varnished tacts, which no reasoning can set aside, nor sophistry in- validate. I know that there are many wealthy and respectable farm- ers, mtchanies, and manufacturers in the old countries ; but I speak, of the mass of the people — the labourers. Wherever their situa- tio'n is contrasted with that of the sanie class here, it will be found /that the contrast is greatly in favour of America. In those countries where the feudal svstem prevails, the lands are nearly all entailed on the great families, who, being thi^ lords of the soil, are also the lords of the laws. The farmer must pay a high rent annually tor the use of bis farm ; he may get a lease, perhaps, for a number ot years ; but he ia^bound to cultivate the ground in the way prescrib- ed by the tenui'e of that lease. If he improves the farm, the inr.- provenwntsare foi' anotlier — not for him; and it often happens that at the end of the lease, if another is willing to give oneshilhng more than liiiii, or if the proprietor has a favourite, or wisbc!;» to turu ■^<. NEW YORK. 515 two or more farms into one, or has taken umbrage at his politics, or his religion, or any thing else regarding him or his family, he will not get a renewal of the lease. I have known Himilies to have been ruined in this way. Being turned out of their farm, they re- tire to a town or city, where their substance is soon spent, and they pine away in poverty and wretchedness, and at last find a happy re- lief in the cold grave! • ' *■ '- ' Compare this with the situation of the American farmer. ITc cultivates his own soil, or if he has none he can procure it in suiTi- cient quantity for 200 or 300 dollars. If he has no money, he can get credit ; and all that is necessary to redeem his credit is to put forth his hand and be industrious. lie can stand erect on the mid- dle of his farm and say :• "This ground is mine: from the highest canopy of heaven down to the lowest depths, I can claim all that I can get possession of within these bounds — fowls of the air, fish of the sea, and all that pass through the same !" And having a full share of consequence in the political scale, his equal rights arc gua- ranteed to him. None dare encroach upon him ; he can sit under his own vine, and under his own fig-tree, and none to make him afraid. Look at the inechanic and manufacturer : In America they can earn irom 6 to 9 dollars per week, and have provisions so reasonable that they can maintain themselves in ease and affluence, and accu- mulate property for old age and for their offspring ; while in some of the old countries they can only earn about as many shillings, while provisions are so dear, that4t is with difficulty they can sup- port a wretched existence. Tlieir case is wretched, indeed, under those governments, which by a refinement of cruelty have entailed this further curse upon them — that except by stealth, they cannot, they dare not leave the country. •* *.■ ' '*% • ^iti^ CHAPTER CI. Leave Bataviaf — Genesee rivery—^Canandaigiiu. X HERE is something in an e:^tensiye country that is calculated to erilargethe mind, and to steel the body against the fatigues in- cident to a long journey. I had now travelled upwards pf 2000 miles ia the space qf 12 weeks, during which I do not think I was 1 1 t" fi ,.,J ^ ^^■1 ll mt ^ 516 TRAVlis IV an hour idle. Both body and mind had Ixien incessantly occupic^« yet I felt little fntigiic; the recollection of the scenery I had passed over, the vast variety of useful information I had collected, the per- petual succession of fresh objects, and the collective view, in my mind's eye, of such an extended country, under such a mild government, all conspired to produce sensations gratifying in the highest degree } and 1 am a canvert to that part of the Brunonian system, which attributes support to the. l)ody from salutary stimulus on the mind. It was as natural for me to rise at the dawn of day as to call for my breakfast ; if I met with company on the road, I spoke to them ; if they were going the same way, I entered into conversation, and sel- dom failed to get something worth putting on record. If I travel- led alone, I had an ample fund for meditation and reflection. When 1 stopped, my meals were short, and the remaining part of ^he in- terval of rest was employed in inquiry and recording. My even- ings, excepting the time that was necessary to see my horse taken care of, were spent in the same way, often till 1 1 or 12 o'clock. It was gratifying to reflect that I had travelled ii| the United States upwards of 7000 miles, almost a stranger in the country, without any other passport than decent respect to the inhabitants, which I uniformly met with in return. And here I cannot but express my surprise at the invective and ill-natured I'emarks that I have seen in the writings of some travellers through this country. As to their general sweeping conclusions, we may pass them over as the mere effusions of ignorant spleen ; but the particular instances of rude- ness and ungracious reception they have met with, merit more at- tention : the records are so many stigmas upon their own conduct. I^trangers may meet with instances of rudeness and rough treat- ment ip America — plerity of them ; the American pieQple will not tamely submit to an insult, neither collectively nor individually ; and a traveller will not find it to his comfort to proceed by cursing the waiter for doing this, and damning the hostler for not doing that, and threatening to send Boots to lieU, if his leathern conveniencies are not so clear as he can see his shadow in them. Some people are accustomed to travel in that way at "ome;" but if they should happen to set out on a tour through America in the same style, they will soon have to record the trophies of their own imprudence. There are no waiters, nor hostlers, nor Boots' here, in the same sense as in Britain ; they are all freemen, equal in the eye of the iaw, and in the scale of right. They know their power in the body KEW YORK. 517 politic, and will not relinquish it ; and n traveller cnfi only expect to be comfortable by adopting a suavity of manners calculated to secure the good will of all ; or, as the apostle Paul expresses him- self, by " becoming all things to all men." In this humour I left Batavia, on the 3d of Nnveml)er, afler a pretty heavy rain, the day damp and chilly. I rode six miles to Black creek, on which there arc falls andgootl mill-scats, two miles below the road. Four miles more brought me to I^ Roy, situated on Allen's creek. I was informed the place hud been somewhat sickly, the more remarkable, because it is on high open land ; but I could perceive the cause in a large mill-pond, with the stumps of trees standing in it. People should, if {possible, avoid making mill* ponds close by their dwelling houses ; or if they do, they sliould, in mercy to themselves, first take out all the wood, and leave nothing to rot in the water. There are 75 feet falls in this creek, two and a half miles from the road. I travelled six miles more to McDonald's tavern, and was inform- ed that there was a Scots settlement, called Caledonia, about four miles off the road. Indeed Mr. Ellicott had mentioned it to me be- fore. The settlers are much respected for their industry, sobriety, and integrity. Some of them are represented as not being very nice in the article of cleanliness, a circumstance, I must confess, too com^ pion among the Scottish peasantry ; but their solid good quulitiei speak volumes in their favour ; and pursuing agriculture in Ame* rica, they will, no doubt, soon correct a fault, which, though nol immoral, is disagreeable. From hence to Genesee river is nine miles, part of the way through large openings, and towards the river is an Indian reservation, cob^ taining a great deal of excellent bottom land. The. river is here a considerable str^m ; but very muddy, with vast quantities of de^ caying vegetable matter about its banks, which sufficiently accounts for the sickness on it ; but it has a fine descent, and the banks admit of being drained, so that the sickness will be only temporary ; while the fine bottoms on it will insiu'e a large and very rich settlemenb There are four large falls upon the river. Two of them, 50 mibt from the lake, precipitate the water 90 and 60— together, 150fii^ | and two more, on the continuation of the ridge from Lewistown, six miles from the lake, throw it down 75 and 96 — ^togetber^ 171, — iit all 321 feet. This shows that the configuration of the couotrf Ion undergone a cliaogc from, the Mis of Niagara. The table land i to fall one-half, about 50 miles from Lake Ontario. /> i •' \ ■ h \ ft % 518 TRAVELS Ilf After crossing the river by a pretty good bridge, I rose by a Cine elevated bank to a little village called Avon. I was now in Ontario county, and was surprised at the degree of cultivation it had under- gone. Though nil settled within 20 yean:, it looked like an old country. The houses were good, and the fields fertile. But I was, above all, delighted with the fine views which appeared every where nround me. I had long travelled through low land, and the country so much covered with wood, that I had little dis- tant prospect : but here the country swells out into large ridges, and is sufficiently cleared to sec, in some places, to a great dis- tance. Night came on, and I hurried to a tavern, six miles from the river, where I stopped all night. I was informed at the tavern that there was a pretty good har- bour at the outlet of the Genesee river, to which there was a good road, distant about 35 miles, llie price of wheat there was 75 cents ber bushel, and flour in proportion. A custom-house is si- tuated at the outlet of the river, and a vessel had lately been seized, having smuggled goods on board, to the value of 50,000 dollar?. Some improved farms on the road have lately been sold as high as 40 dollars per acre. November 4th. Clear and hard frost. — I started before sun- rise, and passed through an open country, rather hilly, but the soil all arable, five miles to Honeoye creek, a pretty little stream, which issues out of a lake of the same name a few miles to the •outh, where there are three more lakes, all pretty sheets of water, which add much to the beauty of this charming country. I was now in the township of Bloomfield, and passed a handsome little village, with an elegant church and spire, exhibiting an appear- ance very much resembling those in New England, from whence the greater number of the settlers here have originated. I passed on through a fine swelling, open country, with good soil, 6 miles more, to another village, and here I stopped for breakfast, f This is also a very pretty village, adorned with a handsome church and spire. 1 was informed that this place began to settle about 21 years ago; the original temporary houses have nearly all given way to elegant frame and brick houses, and the whole settlement indicated wealth, and rapid improvement. Land in the neighbourhood is good, and sells by the improved farm at 30 doUurs an acre. From a height above the tavern, I had a fine ▼iew> extending to the north and north-east SO miles. -< ■;l 5* NEW YORK. 519 From Blooinficld to Canundaigua, the ronil pnsKea over u Alio rich country, abounding in splendid views, tor Hcven miles. On entering CanunduiguU) I was really surpri8cd at the beauty of the place, and tlie surrounding acenery. The lake to the south, and the scenery around it, forms one of the most beautiful landtica{)et to be seen any where ; and to the north, on the brow of an elevat- ed swelling country, stands the village ; which for beauty of situa- tion, and elegance of buildings, is decidedly the handsomest vil- lage I have ever yet seen. Having a letter of introduction to Mf . Seymour of this place, a gentleman whom I became acquainted with in Scotland 1 4< years ago, 1 travelled through a spacious street to his house, where I received a hospitable welcome, and remained two days. Canandaigua was laid out from 20 to 21 years ago. The main street is 130 feet wide, and extends south and north a mile and a half, and there is a centre s(]uure, and several cro^s streets ; but the principal buildings are on the main street. The village; lots are 22 rods in. front by 66 deep, having outlots of 30 acres an- nexed to them ; and this ground, which was bought 20 years ago for from one to two dollars an acre, is now, by the improve- ments, and progress of settlement, worth from 500 to 1000 dollars per acre for the village lots, and from 80 to 100 for the outlots. The ground is rich, and all arable. Canandaigua consists of about 120 houses, containing abdut 600 inhabitants. There is a handsome brick court-house in the centre square, a jail, and, on the most elevated ground of the village, an elegant academy, exhibiting at a distance a beautiful appearance. There is no church, but an elegant one, for which funds are pr.>- vided, is about to be built. I have before noticed that the house* are handsome: they are mostly of wood, painted white; but a ({ood many have of late been built of brick, which are best calcu< lated for this part of the country. As Canandaigua is in the centre of a remarkably well settled country, it has a very considerable retail trade, and supports six stores, many of which do a great deal of business ; and there are six taverns. A great deal of land business is transacted here, of whit:? my friend Mr. Seymour has a large share. I have uniformly noticed, throughout my travels, that a settle* nicnt in a good soil and favourable climate never fails to succeed, whether it is near a market or not; whereas a settlement in an L f\ I ft-.' '^&4 . rilS*¥3A.rf»ft»^»»'«'.-«»*' 520 TUAVKLS IN yt h unfavourable soil, or uiihcnlthy climate, however favourable its kituation for commerce, iu prccuriouti, anil nuljcct to great viciasi* tudes. The b&luicc of chances U against it. Nuniurou« instances occur in tlic course of this work to conlirm both these positions. A very striking one of the former exists in this place. Canan- tlaigua is far from a market, yet it flourishes in a very eminent degree ; the people have not foreign commerce, but, what is in- finitely more valuable, they have elagant fields, and orchards, and flocks, and herds, and pure uir and fine water, and freedom from tlie ))oilution and contamination of great commercial cities. This ia principally an agricultural village ; the most of the people have every thing within themselves, and provisions are very reasonable: flour five dollars per barrel ; beef, mutton, and veal three to five cents per pound, and other things in proportion There Hre good mechanics in the village, in the various branches calculated ibr the country, and they have good wages. Two tun-yards and two distilleries are the principal manufactories ; there is but little done in the household way in the village, but a great deal is done in the country. The inhabitants are mostly from New England, and the young ladies, with whom the village abounds, exhibit the appearance of the Yankee ladies, in a new and beautiful edition, with great im« provements. There is really fine a society at Canandaigua. Of the learned professors they have an ample supply — indeed I should be inclined to think that six doctors and six lawyers were too ninny ; but it is to hi recollected, that in an agricultural village they arc not dependent on their professions alone, but can have their prin- cipal supply from their farms, and use their calling princijially as a recreation. Some of the country lawyers are editors of news- papers, and M'rite reimirkably well; and as almost every district, or village, has a paper on each side of the great political question, it is in no danger of turning stale tor want of stirring; there are two newspapers here, one on each «idc, and they battle the watch most stoutly. Though last mentioned^ not last in estimation, education is well attended to, as it is every where, when the settlement consists principally of New Englanders. 1 he academy is endowed with 5000 acres of land, and schools are on such a footing that all have access to them. Tb^ view cf the country rouad Canandaigua, which may in-' «.,/ "»-..,,^ "•-•„.#•■' HEW YOnE. ^' fc2| deed include tho whole county of Ontario^ m valuable, at it throw* light upon the future destinitit of that part of America often known by name of the back -jooodsy or the xvilderness. The county of ( )ntario ia about il miles long, by 40 broad, and contains about 1760 square miles of territory, from which we may deduct 60 miles for water. Twenty years ago this wus h wilderness ; but the wildemcHs has truly been made to become a fruitlul field, and to blossom like the rose. It now contains 48,026 inhabitants, being nearly *25 to the square mile ; and they are rapidly increasing in numliers, in wealth, in agriculture, in manu&ctures, and the mechanic arts. There are in the county 1 90S looms, 37 tan-worlcM, 76 distilleries, 20 fulling mills, and 22 carding machines, besides some glask works and potteries ; an.., ,— ~ «. ■••.• •,'- - NFW YORK. 5SS tell which is the more beneficial to health, the stimulus which nature has provided, or that of human invention--^og. *' God made man upright, but they have sou|^t out many inventions." November 7th. Tlic morning being calm, cool, and cloudy, I set forward on my journey u little after day-brcuk, and travelled by an indifferent road, but leading through a fertile and well-set- tled country, to Geneva, which 1 readied to breakiust* The view here is notsocomninnding as at Cunaiidaigua, but it is equally pretty, and the Seneca lake is much more extensive than the lake at Canandaigua. The road leadi> right towards the banks of the lake, which is handsomely skirted with gardens and inclosures, along which the r»iul turns towards an elegant tavern, belonging to the Pulteney estate, and kepi by a Mr.Powel, an English- man. There I stopped. . ,< •> ., After breakfast I was ])roceeding to make some inquiries of the landlord, and, among other questions, atiked if he knew Mr. Fellows, an Englishman, and the intimate friend of some of my acquain- tances in New York. He told me that he was in the village, and sat at the breakfast-table with me. I was rejoiced at this account, and immediately waited on him at the land office, where I got a great variety of information. I was urged to stay some time ; but the season was far advanced, and I was afraid of not being in Albany in time to go down the river by the steam-fboat. I pleaded my excuse, and after walking round the village, and get- ting an explanation of a great number of particulars regarding it, I got my horse in order to depart, and my friend acompanied me to call upon some Scotsmen in the neighbourhood. The first was a Mr. Scott, who has been settled here a considerable num- ber of years, and has a fine improving farm, of grea^ value, aV the heed of the lake. From thence we set out, Mr. Scott ac- companying us, to see Mr. Grieve, situated also at the head of the lake, not far from Mr. Scott. But I did not get away from here in such a hurry: we were obliged to come into the house, and make a libation to the honour of the avid lady that sits upon the ^ craps 6* heather** The Scottish stories went round; the time wheeled away; and finally, 1 was told it was quite too late to think of travelling any more that day ; I must take a bed at Mr, Grieve's. I liked my company, and was not very difficult to persuade; and " please the lord Harry," as squire Western said, " we had a night o't." 1/ ,■ ^m r' V i ■■■m !) fl ff f . 524 TBAVELS IN Mr. Grieve had some fine peach-brandy, which soon brought us all under the influence of the same spirit ; *< the night drave on wi' sangs and clatter" till a ln||^ hour, when, " ail parties pleased," our friends took their leave, appointing to meet in the morning to breakfast. i||< Our morning conversation principally related to the more im- mediate business for which I undertook the journey ; and I got some important additional information regarding this part of the . country, the substance of which I shall condense in a tew remarks, and close this chapter. Geneva is situated at the west side of the north end of Seneca lake, on a level bank, elevated about 20 feet above the water. It is regularly laid out in streets and lots, with a square in the centre. The main street is 6 rods wide, and the lots are three>fouths of an Acrt, and worth, at present^ from 200 to 2000 dollars. The out- lots consist of 8 acres. Those that range next the "village are worth from 30 to 60 doUarspcr acre. The village consists of aboyit 200 houses, containing about 1000 inhabitants ; and they are fast increasing. The markets are near- ly the same as at Canandaigua : house rent for mechanics is about .90 dollars per annum ; wood 1 dollar 25 cents per cord, laid down^^ . flour 2 dollars 50 cents per cwt. ; bee^ mutton, &c. 3 to 5 cenU per lb. ; poultry 6 cents per lb. ; mechanics' board 2 dollars per week. There are two tan-works and 3 distilleries; and a brewery is e- recting, and will soon be in operation. There are 3 hatters, 3 blacksmiths, 3 masons, 12 carpenters, 2 cabinet-makers, 2 watch, makers and silver-smiths, and two apothecaries. Blacksmiths, masons, carpenters, aiid cabinet-makers are in request, and would meet with good encouragement. Wages may be quoted : masons 1 dollar 50 cents per day ; carpenters the same ; labourers 1 dollar ; iimith's work is 25 cents per lb. r . . . t i « * &i ; » ^j # im^w;; The face of the country here is agreeably uneven, and beauti- fully diversified. The most prominent object is Seneca lake, which is not only ornamental, but highly useful ; affording a water con- veyance its whole length, nearly 50 miles. It joins Crooked lake by a stream, and the outlet is by a fine river in the neighbourhood, of this place. The waters of the lake are very deep, and do not freeze in winter, although the cold is sometimes very intense. It abounds with fish, such as salmon, trout, &c. The soil is varioutr, but a great deal of it is good. The timber KEW YOpK. ■ 525 is beech, maple, oak, hickory, black walnut. Sec. ; and a good deal of hemlock grows along the banks of the lake. The Puitcney estate sells from 2 to 4 dollars an acre, on a credit of from 4 to 7 years, and interest from the date of sale. The set« tiers are very mixed, consisting of Yankees, English, Scottish, and Dutch: and they are generally doing well. On one township there is a colony of English settlers, who are thriving remarkably well. They came . to the settlement very poor, and are getting wealthy; and, thankful for the blessings they enjoy, they are good republicans. They have improved in morals and intellect since their settlement here, and, as they have adopted the manners of the country, they are much respected by their neighbours. ) Sheep thrive remarkably well. The South Down breed has been introduced with good effect, and, latterly, the merino breed, of which colonel Troup, the agent, has sent 4 rams for the use of the settlement. The woollen manufacture is general in &milies, and there are se- veral carding and roving machines. A glass-work has been recent- ly erected on the banks of the lake, and several cotton and woollen factories are projected. The spirit is general for encouraging do- mestic mani^&ctures; and good builders and machine-makers are in great demand. ^ . ,, , r; r^^ Vi^s ' * ' : « '- o> -^f The principal articles for sale are wheat and ashes, which are carried to Montreal and Albany ; and cattle ore carried to New York and Philadelphia. The imports are dry-goods, groceries iron-ware, and crockery. 1 received from Mr. Scott a register of the weather, kept bj him in the years 1799 and 1800, from which I make the following abstract. Geneva is near the centre, and may be considered as «& fording a pretty fair view of the climate of the western part of tha state of New York. ; . -M- 1 ;' i- 1 f',' . : M : i V !»>: ■»■', v- '\ li ,J'^ V^ .f- 'ids •JS^J >'.-f;,, 1^,'i i',, ;f? ;,L- aft i^fj y^::. .«s j^,,>»j i,, / ',-.• i '/. - r Ir K 9i re TRAVELS IJf Thermometer. Weather. ■" Winds. 1 •; 1 w • • 2 |zi {«1?» P 1799. 1 _ September, 80« 50® 69« 9 5 3. 3 6 3 4 i October, 61 31 52 11 10 T 2 1 7 9 6 November, 59 28 41 iai4 1' 4 5 4 7 11 2 Pecembw 42 6 30 9 9 1 7 3 3 7 8 1 4 1800. January, 40 C 25 11 1.^ 4 3 6 10 Fcbruarf, 49 5' 26 12 e 10 7 1011 March, 44 18 35 9 10 sJ 5 9 5 11 1 April, •74 39 53 9 6 6. 1 s 10 6 1 May, 75 48 61 10 4 3 3 6 6 2 June, ,-,' ■ 82 55 71 15 1 :^ 3 3 5 5 1 J«ly. • - 92 as 82 15' 5 1 8 2 4 6 I ,t '^■tviK.-A'M^iii Wr. ,7 I * 1 '" "■*' 1 ■ "■* *** ^^ 12084 2231 4128 67182 23 _4 ll__ _i The month of August was not inserted in the register , but it may be reckoned nearly the same as June, or a medium between June and July. ^ The first snow was on the 1st of November. The coldest day was on the 10th of February, wind north, and clear. The snow was deepest on the ISth of February, being 4 feet.* It thundered on the 18th of March. Pigeons were seen upon the 25th of March. ' * --^f";-' Grass appeared upon the 4th of April. » •* '^' Haple-tree leaves appeared on the 19th. Hie warmest day was on the 10th of July, wind west. ' The prevailing winds are south, south-west, west and north west. The north-west winds are frequently accompanied with clouds and rain, and the south and south-west winds are frequently clear and dry. The reasons are obvious : the great lakes have a tenden- cy to affect the one, while the mountains affect the other. Easterly winds arc very rare. Geneva is in latitude 42** 50', being nearly pai^^M to Newbury- port in America, and Cape Finistecre, in Portugal^ It is exactly in the meridian of Washington city, and a little to the eastward of Carlisle, in Pennsylvania. * It is proper to remark, that die winter of 1 799 1 800 was the coldest, and the snow tkc deepest, that erer was known in this part of the country. KEW YORK. .w •yn..!»(*"-. e, as P 5 2 1 1 1 1 1 3 4 4 1 1 i 1 Ad the snow CHAPTER Clir. ''^f Leave Geyicva, — Auburn^ — Skeneateless, OnondegOf-^Mcnlius " Square f'^Utica, I PARTED with my ftgreeable friends at Genera at 10 o'clock. The morning was cool and cloudy, with a stronj; south wind. I passed along from the head of the lake by good bottom landy ; but the soil soon becomes {>oor and sandy ; and I travelled througii some pine woods, the first I had seen since I passed the Allegany mountains. I travelled a little way along the side of Seneca river, «nd crossed it by a britige at the falb, where I observed numerous mills; among others, a fulling-mill, and carding- machine. Thre9 miles from thence I passed through prttty good land, and thick «tetticmcnts, to Cuyugu lake, about a mile broad, and I crossed it by a flat bout with a siiil. A bridge was erected here, but it broke down about three years ago, und the remains of it ai'e still to be seen. I learned that raother would be erected soon. The hike is khallow, and freezes in winter. Cayuga village stands in a pretty elevated situation, on the east bank of the lake, and contains 20 dwelling-houses, 2 taverns, and 2 stores. There is an inconsider- able trade upon the lake and river, in salt upwards, and flour downwards. Seneca river, after passing into the lake at the north end, re- issues a little to the eastward, and, running a north and cast course to Cross lake, it receives the waters of Canandaigua lake, Owj|co take, and Skeneatcless, besides those of smaller note. From O^ss lake it makes a bend by the north and east, and receives the waters of Onondago lake, when it turns to the north, and i'urms a junc- tion with Oneida river, when the two rivers united, assuming the name of Oswego river, pursues a north-west course to Lake Onta- rio, in its progress passing over a ridge, l)y a fall of 10 feet per- pi'udicular, and from thence it has a very rapid current fiar 12 miles to Lake Ontario. - " Here I fell in with two travellers going to the cattward, with whom I kept company, and passing on 6 miles, we arrived at Au- burn, on the Owasco river, where we stopped all night. In the (bourse ol the day, I passed from 20 to 30 families moving to the west'vard. Aucuny is the sent of justice of Cayuga county. It waii laid u ■ • \ h 1 # h> re t } IB 528 TBAVELS m I ' -.# -.v-" ft li :l 1 _. . it., v' It out 10 years ago, and now contains about 100 houses, and 600 in- habitants. The public buildings are a court-house, jnil, church, and academy, and there are 8 stores, 3 taverns, and a weekly news- paper. There arc small falls on the river at this nUce, which af- ford water for 3 grist-mills, 1 saw-mill, 1 trip-hammer, 1 oil>milI, 4 carding machines, and 3 fulling-mills ; and there are in the town 5 tanneries, 3 distilleries, 2 hat factories, and 4 smiths' forges. ^ ^ November 9. The morning was cloudy and agreeable. I tra- velled to Skcneateless, 7 miles, to breakfast. The road very mud- dy ; the soil black loain and clay ; the face of the country uneven, but not hilly ; and the grounds pretty well cleared of timber, ex- cept the roots, which stood up all along the rood, so many wit> nesses that this is a new country. I passed a number of waggons moving to the westward, and saw some travellers walklht; on foot eastward, one of whom told he was from Grand river, on Lake Erie, and was going to Connecticut, which journey, GOO miles, he expected to perform in 20 days. Skeneateless is a beautiful little place, situated at the outlet of the lake of the same name. It was )',id out about 15 years ago, and contains about 60 houses, and 350 inhabitants. The village lots are 30 feet by 60, and are worth about 200 dollars ; and the out-lots sell for about 500 dollars an acre. There is a congregational church, with a handsome spire, situated upon the top of the hill ; and there arc in the village 4 stores and 2 taverns- The principal occupations ure 2 carpenters, 2 masons, 2 blacksmiths, 1 watch- maker, 2 cabinet-makers, 1 taylor, 1 hatter, 1 tanner, 1 shoe- uij^r, 2 coopers, 1 painter, 1 dyer, 2 doctors, 4 lawyers, 1 cler- ,!>yman, and 2 schoolmasters, who teach at 2 dollars per quarter. There are falls on the river, which issues from the lukcj and the water turns 2 fulling-mills, a grist-mill^ and a snw-mill ; uiid u brick-yard and 2 distilleries are in tlie neighbourhood. A great quantity of woollen cloth is manulacturcd here, and manufactories generally are increasing. The situation is healthy, and the view along the lake is beautilul. After breakfast I passed the outlet>by a Vrooden bridge, immcdi- «te1y below which are the mills and mill-dtuu. 1 observed a boy tishing, and saw several very pretty trout lying on the bridge. I in- quired how long he had L ^n iu catching them ; he answered about live minutes. Just as he spoke he^ipulled up a large salmon-trout, and 1 stopped about 4 minutes, during which he caught tliree or foiur NEW YOnK. 5Sf) more. It was the finest iltiiiiiig I ever saw ; and the trout were beautiful. From hence I passed over six miles, the soil nearly as before de- scribed, and the country uneven; and three miles further on I pass- ed a fine stream runninty to tlie northward in a hollow, on which is a handsome settlement of 30 houses, with a grist-mill, saw-mili, and fulling-mill. To the east of this there i' a large clearing, and a congregational church, but it looks humble for want of a spire. The country now becomes more hilly, and affords many fine views, the greatest extent being to the northward. The road was very muddy, and composed of a stiff, red ahiy ; the soil was generally good, a black mould being above the clay ; and the timber consist- ed of evemwaricty ; in most places beech was predominant. Eight imres brought me to Onondago court-house, a small place consisting of 23 houses, 3 stores, and 2 taverns ; and a mile beyond this, in a d«ep valley called Onondago tlollow, stands a very hand- some village, consisting of 40 dwelling houses, having an elegant bricR church, with a spire. A creek of clear water runs through the hollow to the north, and drives many mills ; and in front of the road, on the brow of a hill, il a handsome state -arsenal, built of hewn stonq^ The view here reminded me of some of the scenery in the state of Ohio.* -/ ' - i v v .. .- * To die north of this about five or six miles, are the celebrated Onondago salt-works ; as I did not turn out of iny way to view tliem, I shall transcribe an account of them from Schultz's Travels. " The town of Salina is situated on a bank fifty feet al>o ve tha creek and marsh in front, and contains about fifty houses, some of which make a respectable appearance. The country immediately around the town appears to i>e n stitiT barren clay ; and wood, from the vast consumption of the furnaces, has already become scarce. The whole trade of this village arises from the manufacture of salt ; nor do I believe there is a single indi- vidual in the town who is not concerned in the trad*;. The salt-springs ceived a good deal of information from him. A mile and a half from where I breakfasted I passed through Ca^ whole of Upper, and s considerable part of Lower Canada, are wholly supplied from these works. " I examiued the several springs used in manufacturing this necessary article of life; and though there was a considerable variation in their degrees of strength, yet I found them all nearly three times as strong as sea water. I likewise found a most excellent spring of fresh water in the same place, aitd within two rods of a very strong salt-spring. I no- ticed, however, that this ^ssued from the-eurface of a stratum of clay, which lay about six inches higher than those ttiat wero suit. I have just remarlcM that there is a considera- ble diftercnce in the relative strength of the waters of these springs; and I have been in- formed by thtt manufacturers that some will require but ninety, while others take one hun- dred and twenty gallons of water to produce one bushel of salt You will also readil; perceive that the quality of the water must be very materially affected by every change of the weattier, and consequently stronger in a dry than in a wet season. M llie price of salt at the works is incredibly low, being no more than from 25 to 31 cents per bushel of 56lbs., or 2 dollars 25 cents a barrel, cqpitaining 5 bushels, including The price of the barrel, and in >i.«ction fees." , i,'H NIW YORK. 531 nsserago, a handsome village, consisting of about 20 frame houses, paiikted white. At 3 o'clock I passed Oneida creek, on which there is a considerable settlement of Indians. The land here is sandy and level, and covered with pine woods ; but the country round is hilly, and the soil good. The road pasM.>s a little village called Vernon, and proceeds through a thickly-settled country, with good lands and plenty of taverns by the way. Towards evening I came to a sign-post pointing to the left, on which was painted in large cha- racters, ocj* To Utica l(i milci. \ turned aside, according to the di- rection given ; but I soon found the road nearly impassable, and turned back to make inquiry. When I regained the turnpike, u traveller came forward, and told me to keep the straight road — the sign-post was an imposition, and merited no attention, It was a decoy to iiftluce travellers to take a very bad road that led three or four miles round, in order that some tavern-keepers might make a little money by them. " O, money !" exclaimed I, ** the love ofthe« is the root of all evil. In this case thou hast almost extorted the malediction recorded in the bible, *curs<^d is he that turneth the traveller out of his way.' " I kept company with this new acquaint- ance, and we travelled five miles to Laird's tavern, where we stop- ped for the night, 1 1 miles from Utica. November 11. Being anxious to get to Utica early, I set out at' day-light, and the discreet traveller whom I fell in with last night kept rae company. We travelled through a pretty hilly country, and good hard road, with improved fanns on each side, seven miles* to Hartford, situated on a little stream that fulls into the Mohawk, and is rapidly advancing in manufactures. Some cotton-works had been recently erected. We stopped here while I got a shoe put on my horse, and I observed in the smith's forge a pftir of bellows on a new construction, for which a patent had been obtained* The prin- ciple was precif^cly the same as the common bellows ; but the appli- cation is an evident improvement. The air is collected in a circu- lar wooden cylinder, having moveable pistons above and below, fixed to the cylinder with leather, so as to allow them motion, and at the same time ke^p the interior of the vessel air tight. The air has ingress below a valve, and has egress from the side of the cylin- der by a tube leading to the forge. The advantages over the com- mon bellows are durability, compactness, and cheapness. Th^ road and country continue nearly the same as already de- scribed, 4 miles, to Utica. la our progress, my fellow-trav«llcr told ^ ^"■»-:»:-K;,?eSij|; ,,•::;::;; ;r:a2 / h 599 TRAVELS IM me he was settled in New Connecticut, to which he had emigrated from Lower Canada, not fur from the American line on New Hamp- shire. Me was highly pU'uscd with the change he had made. His chief objection to Canada was the long severe winters, the haughti- ness of the soldiery, and the encouragement of spies and informers* by which means the best citizens were liable to become a prey to the worst. I^ affirmed that the people in that district were universally dissatisfied, and a war with the United States would be the signal for revolt, if it was seen that the United States had an army suffi- ciently powerful to support them. As we approached towards Uticn, I was quite surprised with the appearance of the country ; the houses were so thick, that it was for a considerable way like u continued village. Many of the buildings were elegant, with fine orchards attached to them, and the plots of ground adjoining were fertile and clcgnutly cultivated ; while the lands at a little distance formed a singular contrast. They were bare of trees to a considerable distance; but the stumps were pro- fusely scattered over the surface — a sure indication that the coun- try had not long been the habitation of man. This is, indeed, a new country, but society has made most rapid progress — the more so, of course, that it is immediately contiguous to the old ; and Uti- ca, which we reached at 9 o'clock, may be termed the key to the western country. CHAPTER CIV. Uticaj — Ucmarks on the Grand Canalf — Foreign and Internal Commerce and Manufactures, . . , „ ,. J.N my progress through the western parts of the state of New York, the grand canal had frequently become the topic of conver- sation ; but it did not appear to have excited that interest there that might have been expcctijl from a work of such magnitude. It had been diflferently viewed at Utica. The grand canal, it was presumed, would recruit the drooping commerce of the town, rc-animate the spirit for building, restore con- fidence in the future greatness of the place, and improve the price of lots. My individual opinion of the canal was by this time form- ed, and when I frankly stated it, I was often mortified to find that -Yf' 'V^-Oi-ic •*• ^. ■*»-' f\' NIW YORK. 533 it wai ?cry uncongenial to the fond anticipation of my friend*. I always make it a rule, however, to be candid, and to spook what I think. I have not yet learned the happy facility of " booing to the great mon," and I am now tiw old to learn. A candid opinion, founded upon examination, though it should be even incorrect, it of more service to the cause of truth than a complaisant ac(|uics- cence witliout any examination at nil ; and every person who states his opinion candidly and discreetly, will receive the approbation of the wise and the good ; the rest are not worth caring for. My can- did opinion then was that tiicre would probably be ho grand canal, (the reasons I shall give hereafter ;) and that the people of Utica would deceive themselves it they looked for relief to their drooping commerce from that quarter. But I saw that Utica was probably destined to be re-animated in another way. I think it will become one of the greatest manufacturing districts in the United States ; and in that view I proceed to consider it. It may be proper first to glance at Utica as regards foreign com- merce. By looking at the map, it will be seen that Utica is on the Mohawk river, near the head of navigation, 100 miles from Albany. The mountainous district commences here, and continues to within 60 miles of New York, and to the north and west is a fine cham- paign country, which, since it began to settle, has proceeded with a rapidity of improvement that has no parallel on earth, except in the state of Ohio. While this western country was in its infancy, the first employment of the settlers was to clear the ground, and raise a little grain and pork for sale; and with the procecdti provide various supplies for their families. Having no other mar- ket, except the low country, und no resources within themselves, this trade centered first at Albany, and was very beneficial to it« About 23 years ago, a settlement was commenced at Utica, in which the stores were well supplied with dry goods and groceries, and wit^ cash to purchase produce. It was found to be a saving to the farm- ers to trade here, in place of going to Albany, and a consideitiblo portion of the trade accordingly rested at Utica. The westetn country progressed, the trade flourished in proportion, new stores were established, the town increased, elegant houses were built, loM^ rose in value ; and the last branch was much accelerated by th« a- vidity of speculation. .* This state of things continued until about the years ISOT-^- when circumstances began to change. As the pepple Uy 4iltt ■I. \ t^ V ■ ,''^;;:;l/.7rir3rEa*' 1 p » / ( .u- 534 TRAVBU IN westward became numeroui and wealthy, they began to establiAh towns in the iiitorior, and these became so many little emporiums ibr supplying the inhabitants with necessaries and receiving their produce. In addition to this» the current of the market began to change altogether ; the lakes and the St. Lawrence were found to be a better and more convenient market for the northern and western parts of the state, than the Mohawk and Hudson ; and Montreal engrosoed a large share of the commerce heretofore enjoyed by New York, Albany, and Utica. And, to crown the whole, British credit was so cheap in New York, that New York credit partook of it, and goods were brought into the market, in all directions, through the country, often on a credit of from 6 to 18 months. The business was overdone; many of the country dealers were ruined; the town-merchants lost a great deaf of money ; and the whole country sufiercd by the re-action. The •ingle circumstance of 3S00 debtors advertising for the benefit of the insolvent law, is a commentary upon the subject, to which I have not a word to add ; and I now proceed to enforce an opinion already promulgated in this work. The foreign trade is gone, never to be recalled to its former state. A new era has commenced in the United States. Britain is d^tined to be no longer the manufacturer for Ainorica; the seeds of manufactures are sown throughout the country, never to be rooted out ; and, so far from the interior being dependent upon the cities as heretofore, the cities will, in all probability, become de- pendent upon it. A friend of mine, lately, in adverting to this •ubject, well expressed it; ** the cities have had their daify and ftaw/ar the country.'* 1 am of the same opinion -; and though I am well aware that it is by no means gratifying to many who live in the cities, yet I consider it a solemn duty to state it. Those who avail themselves of the advantages to be derived from the new order of things, will in my opinion do well ; while those who continue to hang by a precarious foreign trade, or depend on its reanimation, will, I fear, find themselves disappointed. But the citizens of Utica have already begun to avail themselves ef the advantages to be derived from the new order of things ; and a good deal of the surplus capital of Albany, and New York, has also been invested in manufactures, in and about this place; Ibr which they are already getting in some cases a handsome re- tttni« perbapsjQot so great aathat to be spmetimes derived from m- ~-% ^. , . i i * 1 . »■-■«■ . I to estnblinh ; emporiums ceiving their arkct began L> were tbund lorthern and [udson; and )forc enjoyed 1 the whole, York credit arket, in all )f from 6 to the country reat deat of iction. The he benefit of to which I :e an opinion o its former ites. Britain inerica; the ry, never to )cndent upon r, become de- rting to thi» nr dajff and and though I any who lite te it. Those ^ed from the lie those who depend on its d. i\\ themselves er of things ; New York, ut this place ; handsome re- derived from r\ mw YOKE. 635 a foreign voyage, but much more certain, and with very little risk of losing the capital ; while " orders in council," and ** blockad- ing decrees," with other vexatious restrictions of trade on the high seas, are so far from being injurious, that they are absolutely ad- vantageous. There arc in Oneida county three glass-works in operation, une of crown glass, one of cylinder glass, and one tor glass bottles. Four paper-mills liuve been recently erected within eight miles of Utica. One cuttun-factory is in operation, and three or four are erecting, besides several woollen factories, and there arc consider able bleuch-fieids and dye-works. Iron-works nnd forges are nu- merous, and there are in the county 20 tan-works, sevcnd hat- fuctories, 24< fulling-mills, and lU carding-muchines. There are three branches that are likely to flourish in an emi- nent degree: glass, wllens, and cotton; and they will all l)o of great importance to Uticii. For glass the materials are all on the fpot. Sheep, both of the common aiid merino breeds, are iu- creasing in all directions, and cotton can be brought from New York by a water conveyance, except a short portage of 15 mile* from Albany to Skcnectudy. The cotton trade will, I think, flourish beyond every other here. It is now so simplified, and machinery is applied to it with such effect, that little labour is required; and the labourers daily arriving from Europe, at New York, can be transported here in a few days, at a small expence. The raw material can always be had nearly one-half lower than iu Europe, and such is the cheapness of living, and so plenty the hands, that labour will not be a great deal dearer. The trade with the back country is secure to a very large extent, and provisions must be for ever cheap at Utica. . - .f«j'j i » . Utica is the capital of Oneida county, and consists at present of about 400 houses, containing 2000 inhabitants. It began to settle about 23 years ago, os alreaily mentioned, but it has been principally built since the year 1796, and two-thirds of it since 1800. The buildings are mostly of wood, painted white, but a good many have Lately been built of brick, and some fW of stoncw The public buildings are four places for public worship, two of them elegant, an academy, clerk's office, &c. ; and there are six taverns, 15 stores, and 2 breweries. There are three printing-offices ; viz. one for books, and< two for newspapers, one book-sior^ one bindery, two morocco mana- i \' '•■V, .*r-«» /I lA I 1, m ' ' 1^! f' i 536 TRAVELS IN factories, and otie manufactory of musical instruments ; three ma" sons, a number of brick-makers and carpenters, four cabinet am) chair*makers, two coopers, seven smitlis and naiiors, two tin- smiths, one copper-smith, four silver-smiths and watch 'makers, three tanners and currier?, three saddlers, three shoe-makers, one furrier, six butchers, two bakers, three hatters, four taylors, four painters, and four druj^gists. The village lots are from 50 to 60 feet front, and 100 to 130 feet deep, and sell for from 200 to 1000 dollars. The out-lots contain 12 acres, and 5000 dollars are asked for them. House rent for mechanics is about 60 to 100 dollars, wood 1 dollar 25 cents per cord, flour 8 dollars per barrel, potatoes 25 cents per bushel, turnips 31 cents, cabbages 4 cents each, beans 62 cents per bushel, onions 75 cents, beef, mutton, and veal five cents per lb., venison 4 cents, fowls 9 cents each, ducks 25 cents, geese 50 cents, turkeys 62 cents, butter 12^ cents per lb., cheese 7 cents, hog's lard 6 cents, beer 5 dollars per barrel, whiskey 45 cents per gallon, boarding 2 dollars 50 cents per week. The government of the village is vested in a board of five trus- tees, chosen annually by the inhabitants. There are five schools, at which are taught all the various branches of education, which is pretty well attended to ; and there is a very good seminary for young ladies. The expence of tuition is about from two to four dollars per quarter. The commerce of Utica consists of dry goods, groceries, crock- ery, hardware, and cotton, imported ; and of grain, flour, pro- visions, ashes, &c. exported. The chief part of the commerce is with Xew York, but it is said a considerable smuggling trade has of late been carried ou with Canada. Wheat is 1 dollar 12 cents per bushel, corn 44 cents, barley 75 cents, ashes nominal, cotton 21 cents, horses 50 to 100 dollars, cows 15 to 22 dollars, sheep 2 to 2 dollars 50 cents. Lands on the turnpike, in the neighbourhood, sell for from 50 to 100 dollars ; further off 40 to 50 ; but the lands in both vil- lage and country have greatly depreciated in the money value. The view of the country round has been already noticed ; the whole is healthy, but the winters are cold and severe. .4 '*rf*>-- > ; three ma- cabinet ami rs, two tin- Itch •mitkerg, makers, one taylors, four 100 to 130 rhe out-lots ars, wood 1 potatoes 25 each, beans and veal five ;ks 25 cents. • lb., cheese whiskey 45 k. of five tru»- five schools, ition, which eminary for two to four jrics, crock- flour, pro- oinmerce is ig trade has »nts, barley 100 dollars, for from 50 n both vil- y value, oticed; the VtW YORK. 537 * CHAPTER CV. «.- -h: General remarks f — View of the twrthern parts of New York^ — • Socket's harbour, — Lake Ontario^ — Adjacent cotintry, — Internal Navigation. . . M. HE reaout two months without shelter, exposed to rain, cold, and hunger. The ensuing spring they went there again to burn the timber cut down the preceding fall, to plant some grain, and to erect a saw-mill. In that year (1801) three families went to reside on the place, and there were no other settlers in all the country, except one family 10 miles distant, one 14 miles distant, and some few farther off, i|^ the distance of 40 or 50 miles. Previous to this period a great degree of prejudice existed a- gainst the lake shore; it was reputed subject to fevers, and other- wise unhealthy, and Mr. Sacket's new settlement excited a good deal of curiosity in the minds of that most enterprising people, the New Engbnders, who were traversing the country' in all di- rections in quest of new lands. The first fall Mr. Sacket had fiora 10 to 30 of these people almost every night, to partake gf m «* i i i I M <•?. 538 TRAVELS IM ^ his fare, and lodgings on the ground. The next spnng they re- newed their visits, and finding Mr. Sacket making successful pro- gress with his infant settlement, they threw asme their fears, and rapidly bought up the surrounding country, and moved on it with their families. The ensuing winter Mr. Sacket describes as the most dreary he ever experienced ; the sun or compass directed their travels through the woods ; there were no roads, no travellers, no news, and they were cut off from all communication with society, except a few Indians, whose confidence Mr. Sacket was so fortunate as to secure, and they were very serviceable in bringing venison, fish, wild fowl, cranberries, &c. They were an inoffensive, friend- ly, and obliging people ; but they woukl frequently indulge themselves in a drunken frolic under circumstances truly singular, indicative of a mixture of folly and good lense. They would de- posite in Mr. Sackct's hands all their guns, knives, tomahawks, trinkets, &c., and then the men would get into the highest state of intoxication, and so continue for two days, while the women would remain perfectly sober. As soon as they had finished their frolic, the ladies would set to it in their turn, and continue for a like time in the most brutal state of intoxication, during which time the men would never taste liquor. Sometimes a party of men or women would come alone, in which case, if they had a mind for a frolic, they would take it by turns, one half remaining sober while the other was drunk. Mr. Sacket completely succeeded with his settlement, and it now contains one of the handsomest villages on the lake, called Sacket's Harbour, on account of being situated on a pretty little harbour, by far the best on the lake. ; ' . / The viihigc is situated at the east end of Lake Ontario, about 16 miles from the river St. Lawrence, and consists of a number of large and elegant modern-built houses and out^houses, gene- rally superior to what they are in the old villages. The village was originally laid out in half acre lots, but many of them are subdivided ; and such has been the rapidity of the settlement, that these lots are now selling for from 250 to 1200 dollars; and one of them, which was given in a present to one of the first set- tlers, to induce him to go into the wilderness, was lately sold at 1450 dollars. Mr. Sacket has realized from it, in all, about 25,000 dollars, and has considerable property yet remaining unsold. \>} l^i&.*-". - •;, ...^.; J. »^ iig they re- iccssful pro- r fears, and d on it with lost dreary leir travels no news, ety, except brtunate as g venison, sive, friend- ly indulge ly singular, would de- tomahawks, i^hcst state the women nished their ntinue for a ring which arty of men 1 a mind for iniflg sober tent, and it lake, called pretty little ario, about f a number uses, gcnc- rhe village f them are settlement, ollars; and lie first set* ;ely sold at all, about ing unsold. KEW YORK. 539 The harbour is formed by a peninsula of limestone rock, in many places not more than one rod wide, which perfectly shelters a sheet of water containing about 10 acres. The land fronting the harbour iti elevated about 30 feet, and on each side of the harbour the banks are of limestone, about 20 or 30 feet perpendicular, which, from the water, resembles tlie walls of an ancient fortifi- cation. From the village; tf>ere is one of the most variegated, ex- tensive, and beautiful prospects any where to be seen : the lake, distant islands, main land, and outlets of rivers, are all beautiful, and the scene is continually enlivened with vessels and boats ; while the wharfs, warehouses, and stores exhibit an appearance very much resembling a sea-port on the Atlantic, This has for several years been established a port of entry, and it is in contemplation to establish a navy-yard, arsenal, and fortifi- cation for protecting the trade on the lake. There is a ferry be- tween it and Kingstown, in Canada, distant 36 miles, with which place there is a great intercourse : and as soon as packet-boats are established on the lake, this will be the best place from whence to embark to visit the falls of Niagara, distant about 200 miles. The trade at this place has been increasing every year since its firsi settlement. Thei'e are now upwards of forty vessels on the lake, and the quantity of wheat, flour, beef, pork, ashes, and lumber that is annually exported to Montreal would almost exceed belief. But the fair trader is very much annoyed by smuggling, which is a great and a growing evil. The great extent of custom- house districts on the line between the sUxWh (^nd Canada, and the want of small craft, properly manned, to assist the officers of the customs in the discharge of their duty, givei a facility to a violation of the laws which the officers are wholly unable to pre- vent; and the practice of smuggling is becoming so habitual» that it will probably give much trouble to the general govern- ment to prevent it, and it may in fact be productive of confu- sion and bloodshed. The district of country now composing the counties of Jefferson, Lewis, and St. Lawrence, which in the year 1800 was an entire wilderness, containing only a few scattering families, now contains a most repectable settlement of 29,471 souls, enjoying all the com- forts and convenicncies of life, having villages, court-houses, jails, post-oftices, taverns, stores, academies, schools, churches, turn- pike roads, bridges, breweries, distilleries, mills, carding machines; II m 540 TRAVELS IN and supporting farmers, mechanics, and manufacturers ; with law* yers, doctors, and divines in abundance. Within 13 miles of Sacket'b Harbour are nq less than five considerable villages, viz. Brownsville, Williamstown, Watertown, Bun's mills, and Sandy Creek; and in all these villages, as well as Sacket's Harbour, there are elegant buildings. In these three counties there are 37 tan- works, 17 fulling-mills, and 11 carding machines ; and the quan- tity of cloth manufactured last year exceeds 300,000 yards. The lands are generally good, the timber being chiefly elm, oak, maple, hickory, pine, cedar, and hemlock. The woods are generally open, having little brushwood. Produce is plenty, and provisions arc very cheap ; beef, mutton, and veal about 4 cents per lb., venison 2,^ to 3, and other kinds in proportion. Flour, grain, and vege- tables are equally plenty and cheap. The woods fiimish a great variety of wild game, particularly deer, partridges, and pigeons ; and the waters are equally prolific of fish, of which there ii a great variety, consisting of salmon, salmon-trout, trout, Oswego, white and rock bass, pike from 2 to 50 lbs. weight, and a great variety of others. There are plenty of wild geese on the lake, and a great variety of ducks and other fowl, which 1;^ feeding on the wild rice lose their fishy taste, and are highly esteemed. In the woods there are some wolves and bears, but they avoid men when in their pow- er ; the latter are often found crossing rivers and bays'*. ^ " . A great emulation and activity pervades all classes of the settlers in ornamenting their villages, and improving their farms, roads, &c. which must ultimately make this one of the finest and most agreeable parts of the stale. And when we reflect on what has already been done, the mind is inevitably hurried forward to con- ■* The fsllowiHg singular occurrence took place on the lake not long ago. A farmer who lived on the lake shore, observing a bear crossing a bay, was anxi- nus to kill him. He ran to his skiif, and without reflecting that he had no weapon but his paddle^ worked his way to the bear, who immediately sprung into the skiff, and, to the great terror of the former, very dcliiierataly sat down on the bow in Aront of him. <* The farmer, after some reflection, determined to carry him back, and attempted to turn the bo»t ; but the bear made an advance to prevent him, and the boat, impelled by the wind, having gained its &n shore, the black passenger leaped out, to its great satisfaction ; equalled or probably surpassed by that of its yirrymnn, the NEW YOnK. 541 template the progress of society along this amazing chain of lakes and rivers ; and we see, by anticipation, cultivated fields and or- chards, thriving manufactories, with a succession of cities, towns, and villages, abounding in arts, sciences, and all the embellish- ments of civil life. The navigation of the Mohawk river, and a water conimunica- tiod from Albany to the great lakes, arc objects which are calcu- lated to excite particular interest at this place. The Hudson river is a noble stream, having tide water to Troy, six miles above Al- bany, to which large vessels can freely navigate. The Mohank river forms a junction with the Hudson at Waterford, a few rivrxs above Troy. From the mouth of the river, there are rapiiis, ex- tending about a mile and a half, to the Cohoc^ falls, a per})euilicu- lai: descent of about 70 feet, and the rapids below are about as much more. From this to Schenectady is about 12 miles. An excellent turnpike road has been made between Albany and Sche- nectady ; and from thence to Utica the Mohawk is navigable with boats, which are propelled upwards, at the rate of 13 or 20 inilct a day. The distance between Schenectady and Utica by water it 104> miles. The navigation is continued beyoi'.d Utica, 16 miles, to Rome, where, by means of a canal one mile long, the boats are carried through Wood creek 24< miles, Oneida lake 30 miles, O- neida river|^ miles, and Oswego river 6 miles, where there is a fall of 10 feet, and a portage of two miles. The navigation is tlien continued 12 miles to Oswego^on lake Ontario. The whole distance from Albany is 228 miles, from New York 388. The navigation of these rivers was at first in a very imperfefft state; but thelegislature of the state of New York, considering the importance of an inland navigation from the Atlantic to the great lakes, incorporated a company under the title of the Western In- land Lock Navigation Compani/, This company has expended a great deal of money, and done as much as their funds would per-* mit) to complete this important navigation. But it is still defec- tive and their tolls are so very high on the lines of canal, that the utility of the navigation is considerably impaired. Within these two years, therefore, the subject has excited fresh interest; and the. legislature, by a joint resolution of both houses, in March, 1810» appointed commissioneis " to examine the navigation, to consider what further improvements ought to be made, and to report." The commi&bioners having caused various surveys to be inadc^ 5 ,5 '■• ,; B42 TnAVEis IK and examined the subject with as much attention as time and circum- stances would permit, reported, " thut by the aid of canals, a good navigation for boats can unquestionably be made from Sche- nectady to the falls, on the Oswego river, 12 miles south of lake Ontario ; from Shenectady to the Hudson, and from tlie falls just mentioned, to lake Ontario ;" but they stated their conviction, that it was more desirable to extend the navigation direct from Rome, at the head of Wood creek, to lake Erie. From this report, and a map of the western parts of the state, engraved to illustrate the subject, it appears that the line of canal from lake Erie to Rome, is intended to join the lake at Black Rock, and extend along the Niagara river to the mouth of Tonewanta creek, 10 miles, thence along that creek about 10 miles, thence due north about 10 miles, to the top of the Ledge, 8 miles from lake Ontario. Then along that ledge, 55 miles, to Genessee river crossing it above the falls, 6 miles from the said lake; and thence along the country, crossing Seneca river, 18 miles from the lake, and passing close by Salina, and the soutli-east corner of Oneida lake ; the whole distance between Genessee river and Rome, being about 1 10 miles. The commissioners, to make the navigation per- fect, proposed to run the canal all the way to Albany. They de- clined determing whether it should be for sloops or for boats only ; but they concluded that a very complete national work might be executed for five millions of dollars, which they consider a sum not above one twentieth part of the value of the commodities that will be transported on the canal in less than a century. It is to be presumed that the enlightened legislature of a state so powerful as New York will not lose sight of the subject, and I think it extremely probable, that a good boat navigation will be completed betwixt the Hudson and the lakes. I do not think it probable that a passage for larger craft will be attempted, for the present, and I presume that the plan will ultimately be to perfect the navigation by the Mohawk, Wood creek, and Oneida lake, to lake Ontario. This, however, I state merely as my private opinion, and with mil due deference to the commissioners and others interested, whom I consider the only competent judges. The state will no doubt act wisely and judiciously, and the plan that appears besr, under all circumstances, will of course be adopted. Should it be the line direct to lake Erie, every friend to the internal prosperity id circum* canals, a ■ora Sche- ih of lake e falls just ction, that HU Rome, the state, e of canal lack Rock, Fonewanta ies, thence miles from lessee Tiver Bn4 thence A the lake, of Oneida sine, being gntion per- They de- boats only ; c might be ider a sum immodities ry. f a state so bject, and gation will o not think ed, for the to perfect da lake, to and with interested, ate will DO )pears best, hould it be prosperity MGW YORK. 543 of the country must wish them success in the execution of such an arduous undertaking. In the mean time, I may glance at a few reasons why I think they will probably ultimately fix on tlie Una by the Mohawk, &c., to lake Ontario. First. To run a line of canal, 300 miles in length, is a work of such magnitude, that it can only be executed and supported by a very thick population. The labour and cxpcnce of completing it, would be an exceeding great burden upon the present genera- tion, and they would receive no return ; for though begun now, the man is not alive that would see it completed.* To confer a benefit ort posterity is a laudable principle, but the great stimulus to mankind is present advantage ; and it is to be expected that they will avail themselves, in the first instance, of natural advantages as much as possible. Nature has done much towards an in- land navigation by the rivers and lakes mentioned, and little ar^ comparatively, is necessary to render the advantage immediate. Secondly. That an inland canal will divert the trade of the lakes from the St. Lawrence to the Hudson, is, I think, very problema- tical. " There is no friendship in trade." If Montreal be found a better market than New York, the trade on the lakes and country adjacent will be to Montreal, and an inland canal will not prevent it, because there will be buyers at every port on the lakes for tlio Montreal market ; and as people always prefer an immediate to a. distant market, those who live near these places will avail them^ selves of the market at their door. The natural trade, in fact, of these countries is by the St. Lawrence; and this will continue while the United States remain at peace with Britain. Should they go to war, a preity obvious result is, that Canada will fall in with the United States. Thirdly. The old commercial relations of the United States have changed ; and the change will probably progress until it ha consummated in the establishment of internal manufactures, and in- ternal consumpt for produce and raw materials ; which will prevent the quantity of both for exportation from keeping pace with the * Let those who doubt this, turn to the history of canals in generaL An individual instance may be alluded to in the Forth and Clyde navigation, in Scotland. The Fortli and (Myde canal is S3 miles long, and the summit level is 155 feet above tide-water. It was executed at a time when wages were only a shilling a day, and it runs througit a thick-settled country. It was commenced in 1768, aDd/9mplete ■■■v.a.H'A i ,' .■>'x ' ' Leave Utica, — Herkimery — Little FrHs, — Nose, " '■^*? November ISth. The day clear and pleasant I set out at 1 o'clock, and crossing the Mohawk river by a good wooden bridge, I travelled by a turnpike road, five niiles, to a toll*bar. The bot- toms here are fertile ; but the lands at a distance appear rough, and a good many pine-trees are to be seen on the browa of the hills. To the next toll-bar is 18 miles, in wluch space the vaUey contract^ the hills become more4ofty and more barren i but the valley on the river, about a mile wiu!e, is rich land, abounding with handsoBK«et* ?W(B**^'^P'i'1*^M- * » -.-— ■-- MEW YORK. 545 ticments. I observed two streams to emerge from the hills, and fall into the river on the opposite side. Beyond the second toH-bnr the road leads over a lofty bank, near the side of the river, over which 1 travelled a mile and a half, and then descended to the viU lage of Herkimer, where I stopped all night. Herkimer ii» romantically sitaated in a pretty valley, and consists of 52 houses, containing about U60 inhabitants. It has a church, a court-house, 4 taverns, and 5 stores; and issues 2 weekly newspapers. Herkimer county is well settled. The river hills are barren ; but the interior of the country is said to be pretty fertile. Thursday, 14th. The morning wAs cloudy, cold, and disagreea- ble. About half a mile to the east of the village I passed a rapid stream called West Canada creek. After wossing it the road rises to the top of a bank elevated more than 1 00 feet above the river, af- fording a fine view of the country, which continues? miles to Little Falls. The valley is narrow, but well settled ; the road good, with a hard gravelly bottom, and the adjoining lands stony ; but the wheat fields being green, exhibited a pleasing appearance. As I approached the falls, I observed the valley to contract till the hills appeared almost to close, and the banks were singularly rough and stony. Above the falls I crossed a canal, handsomely faced with hewn stone, and I again crossed it close by the locks, as I entered the village, and passed on to Morgan's tavern, a hand- some freestone building. While breakfast was preparing I took a view of the village and canal ; and on my return 1 got the following account of the place from my discreet landlord : The village and land adjoining belongs to a family in England, of the name of Ellis. The settlement commenced about 23 years ago. The village now consists of 50 houses, many of them built of stone, 6 stores, 4- taverns, church, school-house, 1 flour-mill, I trip- hammer, 1 fulling-mill, 1 saw-mill, and 1 carding-machine. The fall of water within three quarters of a mile is about 50 feet, and there is room and water enough for 100 mills. The village lots are 100 feet by 60, and are let on a perpetual lease of 3 dollars per an- num. The Water-falls are reserved by the projirietors for mill-seats, except some that arc on short lease. The proprietors have also 4< or S farms on short lease ; but they are of no great value. They offer to sell the whole for 45000 dollars, which would probably be a good bargain, as this is a very favourable situation for esttablish- ing cottoji and woollen manufacturcf. , (iO ! ■] /) (1 ;r •4: •w. H ih. 546 TRAVELS IN The cnnn] wns cut about 18 years ago. It was originally coii« vtructed of wood ; but that falling to ilecuy, it was rebuilt of stone b years ago. There arc 8 \ockt, at this place. The toll has been lessened within these i'ew ycarit, on account of the waggons taking away the trade from the cunal. It is ut present 1 dollar 25 cents per ton. West Canaila creek, which I crossed, rises on the dividing ridge between the waters of the St. Lawrence and those of the Hudson. It passes through very high lands,, and brings down great ({uantities of ice in the spring. When breakfast was annoinced, I went into the parlour, where e very handsome young lady was seated at the breakfast-table, to puur out the tea; an(U>the articles before her were so numerous, that I could not help taking an inrentury of them; the bare in- sertion of which will show that the inhabitants of the back woods, Oh tliey have been called, are not quite so much in the savage stale as some late tourists would have us imtigine. Plerc we had table, table-cloth, tea-tray, tea-pots, milk-pot, bowls, cups, sugar-tongs, tea-spoons, castors, plates, knives and forks, tea, sugar,, cream, bread, butter, steak, eggs, cheese, crackers, potatoes, beets, salt, vinegar, and pepper. There's a bill of fare that might suit a prince ; and in a situation iio romantic, that it would suit a hermit. It is new too, and quite in the back ground^ being more than 200 miles from New York. While engaged at breakfast, my speculations naturally turned on Dr. Adam Smith's chapter on the division of labour. How many hands behoved to be employed before I could be su))- plicd with such a breakfast ! The view of the fair hainds engag- ed in pouruig out the tea was no small additional relish ; and the luoderation of the charge suiprised me — it was only 25 cents. As I passed through the village, I observed some masons build- ing a stone arch, the first I have seen building in America. Half a mile below the village, the road comes close to the river side, «nd is carried over a large hollow, by a wooden brid ge, from which there is a fine view of the lower part of the falls. Below this there are huge masses of perpendicular rocks on each side, and the whole bears evident marks of having been cut tlirough by the river; a proof, among numberless others, of the great an- tiquity of this continent, and that a vast portion of it must have bttn originally covered by water. I'he valley immediately o -u. NEW YORK. 547 lally con- |t of stone ha« been )ns taking Ir '25 cents milk-pot, mivcs and cheese, r«> a situation 17 too, and from New s naturally of labour, uld be sup- nds engag- b ; and the cents, sons build- ?rica. Half river sidr, idgc, from Is. Below each side, It tlirough great an« must have umcdiatel;' above these fulls muKt hawb been originally n lake, from which the surplus water would be precipitated over the rockis and so form a large fidl. The operation of the water would of coursp wear down the rock^, or, to use Volney's expression, would sow a passage through them, which, in the progrcKs of ages, has pro- f the mountains. are I toai Johi and one mat .^■.■•*», the enit- [om |«iin«ist8 of but the liot, and he west- equentJy •oni the 2 tavern, d 15 oil »g. A- on dis- squirreJ. VUcy al- ntly are iroublpd le river. ay, po- le nini*. d Jand, Itivated offered 11 100 bout 1 on an(! mifac- ighna- ribed. There tion of afleit- tie east *« CIIAl'TKR CVII. .-'39 K m J/' / 1 NRW YORK. 519 are pretty gixul itchooU ; but education is not to much attended to aa it ought to l)o. Tiiere in a tettieoient of Scotit ))eople at Johnstown, and another at Uroadalbin. Hiey have good school*, and are cHteemed very nobcr and industrious. junnni 'i"> On hearing the latter part of this information, I resolved to change my route, to visit my countrymen ; and my landlord ad* vised me to call on Daniel M'lntyo, at Uroadalbin, who woa one of the first settler>i| and would be ready to give every infurw matioii. '!«ru'ti; Of l'-«(t'".lT il'» ' . i( i5>)ii«i*. ; i..ii '■ •> ' *•. aij.>»;. ^a iiv.lw ,^>J«;>..'!'vt'{ :\n-jA To the north of the tavern, there is n low bottom about a quarter of a mile brood, terminated by a steep ridge about SOO feet high, from whence water is conveyed in pipes to the house. This ridge approaches the river as it proceeds westward, close to which it forms the |H>int, already mentioned, called the Nose, from its resemblance to the nose on the human face. r^p n *» I'he rond pntiscs through low and pretty fertile grounds, near the side of the river, about a mile, to a creek with several mills ; and here, in pursuance of my landlord's advice, I turned towards Johnstown, distant 4 miles. I'he road Kiscs by a considerable usceiit. On reaching the heights, there are many fine and exten- sive views, the mountains appearing very distinctly in the bouth* west. The country is pretty well cultivated, but it is bare of limber ; what remains is mostly pine trees. : s.U I stopped at a tavern, where I found a number of men assem- bled on some public occas^ion ; but I could get little information here, and proceeded to the printing-office, where the editor very obligingly answered all my queries. Johnstown contains about 60 houses and 500 inhabitants. It is the seat of justice of Montgomery county, and has a court- house, jail, an episcopal and [iresbyterian church, an academy, and 2 printing-officcst There are 9 taverns and 9 stores. Two .•f ^ S , -..'-aeifer^ Ji, i^. ! i \ [n 550 TRAVILS IN' doctors and 8 lawyers reside in the town ; the other inhftbitante* are generally mechanics. . Johnstown was settled about the time of the war, and the inhabitants are mostly of Scottish and Irish extraction. At 3 o'clock I set out for Broadalbin, distant 7 or 8 miles. The road passes over high lands, the soil rather sandy. From every point by the way there is an extensive view of high elevated lands to the north and west, of the Catskill hills to the south ; and to the east the vast range of mountains in Vermont appear in lofty majesty. I reached Broadalbin near sun-set, and stopping to in- quire for Mr. M'Intyre, I found an old gentleman at the gate en- gaged in a contest with a cow, who seemed determined to have two pumpkins whether he would or not. Having assisted him to drive off the intruder, I was proceeding with my inquiries, when he told me that he was Daniel M'Intyre. He ordered a boy to take charge of my horse, invited me into the house, and intro- duced me to his family ; and informed me that James would be home presently, when we would get all the news. r ^ Mr. James M'Intyre soon arrived, and I spent a very pleasant evening with the family. The history of the settlement of Broad- albin was briefly this. Mr. M'Intyre arrived from, Broadalbin in Scotland, in the year 1775. „In the month of May, the year fol- lowing, his family and five more moved to this place (there being then no settlers between it and Ballston,) when they made a purchase of 1600 acres of land, at 1 dollar 69 cents per acre; and imme- diately commenced clearing and planting. They were all farmers, and were pretty successful, until they were involved in the troubles of the war, by the Indians being let loose upon tliem. But they maintained their ground until the year before the close of the war, when they were obliged to abandon tlie settlement, and retire to Albany, where they continued three years. On their return to the settleiucnt, a few more families joined them, and they have continued to flourish ever since. The township now contains 9238 inhabitants, of whom about one-third are Scottish; the others are principally from New England and New Jersey. The area of the township is about 24,000 acres, all arable, except a swamp of about 2000 acres. The soil is loam mixed with sand; and, though it bears no comparison with the western country, h is pretty godd for this place. The timber is oecch and maple^ viith some piiic, hemlock, elm, ash, and bass-wood. The climat fr ■4*' ??'•*. It ^■»i^^-T#wi* m ^P> 'i% «i««IHMl^| i'mix NEW YORK. 551 hftbitants the time ind Irish les. The )ni every ted lands I ; and to in lofty ing to in- gate en- to have sted him inquiries* red a boy ind intro- ivould be pleasant jf Broad- dalbin in year fol- re being purchase I imme- farmers, I troubles 3ut they the war, retire to eturn to ley have contains sh ; the The xcept a th sand; jntry, h uiaple^ f climat is very healthy ; but the winters arc long and severe, commencing the 1st of December, and continuing till the middle of ApriL The inhabitants are sober and industrious. They manufacture the most of their clothing ; and there are in the township a paper-mill, an oil-mill, 6 grist-mills, 3 fulling-mills, and 2 carding-mnchines. ISheep fanning has been of late a good deal attended to, and the me- rino breed has been introduced with considerable success. After supper the family assembled to prayers, and the whole was conducted in the primitive mode practised by the peasantry of Scot- land, so beautifully described in Burns' Cotter's Saturday Night, of which I shall transcribe the hist Stanza, and close the transac- tions of the day. 'Jlien kneeling down to Heavan's Eternal Kin^, The saint, the father, and the hiislmnd pniyt ; ' ' Hope springs exulting on triumphant wing,' , That thus they all shall meet in future dava : i _ There ever busk in uncreated rays. No more to sigh or shed the bitter tear, - ' . Together hymning their Creator's praise, ' ii . ■; In such socfety yet still more dear, Wniilc circling time unoves round in an eternal sphere ! November 16. The last evening was very cold, and this morn- ing there was hard frost. I prepared to take my leave of my hos- pitable entertainers ; but I coiild nc . get away till after breakfast. The old man recommended me particularly to call upon his son, the comptroller, at Albany ; and James accompanied me to see Mr- Proudfoot, the clergyman, of Scots descent, and married to a Scots woman, one of the " bonnie lasses" of Ayrshire, Mr. Proudfoot is agreeably settled, and to his ministerial charge joins the very laudable occupation of teaching an academy, a plan which every country gentleman should imitate. Mrs. Proudfoot told me Mr* Law, her father, with his family, were comfortably settled about six miles distant. From this place to Milton is 12 miles, the lands but indifferent ; but the views magnificent, particularly of the Vermont mountains, which can be seen at the distance of 60 or 70 miles. Milton is a small place, consisting of a few frame houses only ; but, being paint- ed white, they look neat : and the town is adorned with a very pret* ty church and steeple. • '" ' ' — *' The soil is good round Milton, which accounts for the handsome appearance of the houses ; and a quaker meeting-house denoted ■"— ^ - i w ia uin l h \h li'i 'i d: \ • I I I . • I 652 TKAVKI.S IN • that the ground was partly occupied by some of those sagacious people. Beyond this the soil is very sandy and barren, with pine trees of a small growth : but the people seem determined to make amends for the sterility of the soil in another way ; for passing a creek I saw an elegant new building of seven stories high, which had been re- cently erected for the manufacture of woollen cloth. From thence the road winds through the woods, and the soil continues poor all the way to Ballston, which I reached in the evening. I took a view of the town as I passed through it; and it is soon Been, as it contains 70 dwelling-houses only. It lies in a hollow, and the spring is at the lower end of it, near a small creek. The houses are mostly built of wood, and some 'f the boarding houses are very handsome. One is uncommonly superb, and is said to have cost upwards of 60,000 dollars. Soon after I reached the village, I went to sec the spring. It is inclosed by a railing, the interior being handsomely paved with stone, ai;d the water is secured from all filth by a metallic tube of about 18 inches diameter, elevated a few feet above the top of the spring, which rises copiously, with a boiling motion, antl the sur- plus water passes off by a horiztnital pipe. The water was quite a- greeableto my taste, and produced an exhiluratuig effect upon the spirits. It emits alight smell, but not unpleasant, and is copiously impregnated with fixed air, or carbonic acid gas The medicinal virtues of these waters have of late attracted much •attention, and Ballston has become a place of fashicuuble resort in die summer season. The general effect produced by the use of the waters is purgative, diuretic, tonic, and exhilarating. Tliey are therefore recommended in dyspe[)sia in all its complicated forms, gravel, rheumatisms, diseases of the urlna!-y system, cutaneous erup- fiims, dropsy, scrophula, worms, and some cases of fevers. Tlicy have also been extolled in consumptions ; but their power is very doubtful in that disease, to which indeed it is obvious that the only cHicacious remedy must be by breathing ; and it is to be wished that the faculty would turn their attention to it more in that point of view. I have hearil of extraoidinary cures being performed by living among cows, and am })retty well satisfied that a specific for ulcerated lungs, when not too far gone, will be ultimately found, and successfully atl ministered by inspiration, A highly oxidaud state of the atmosphere we know to be against the patient, and the NEW YORK. 553 sagacious !,• I-. ; ■ e trees of c ametuU eek I saw I been re- )in thenre s poor all i it i3 soon I a hollow, Gok. The in ''••houses is said to ruig. It is paved with lIUc tube of 2 top of the rid the sur- vvas quite ii- ct upon the is copiously •acted much •esort in the le use of the They are ;ated forms, ineous erup- i-ers. They ower is very Ihat the only be wished 111 that point Icrlbrmcd by specific for lately found, Illy oxidaied icnt, and the air arising from the decomposition of baliDy substances is in his favour. But those hints are by the by, and I return to the ana- lysis of this celebrated spring. But who shall agree when doctors differ? Some experimentalists affirm they contain three times their bulk of fixed air, while others say they do not cont'^in one- third of this quantity. 'I'his ditference, being more than 200 per cent. ! is much too large for me to reconcile ; so I shall content n;y- self with stating their probable component parts, without af5*:Jng tlie proportions. Hytiroffcn £ras.7 ti . . r * , .^-^ tr, n ^ 1 iu; component parts ot water. Oxygen gas. 3 Carbonic acid. Carbonate of soda. ' Muriate of soda. Carbonate of iron. - Carbonate of lime. Carbonate of magnesia. I called on Mr. Brown, editor of one of the newspapers, and he introduced me to a Mr. M'Intosh, from Crieff, in Scotland, who told me he was very well acquainted with my father's relations. He mentioned a fact which I knew before, that the original name was Graham, and mentioned that some of our family, of the name of Graham, were settled in New York. From these two gentlemen I got all needful information, from which I shall transcribe a few ad- ditional notes. ' ; Ballston is situated in latitude 43* north, and is 28 miles from Albany. There arc twu roads, one by Schenectady, the other by Waterford ; and it nmkes a very agreeable jaunt to go the one way and return the other. Schenectady is one of the finest inland cities in America. On the other road is. the pleasant village of Water- fonl, and the Cohoes falls. The village is mostly supported by the visitors to the springs, so that, except in the summer season, it is but a dull place. Board- ing at the principal houses is 8 dollars per week ; but there are sn.all- er houses having inferior accommodations, at 4 dollars. There is an academy and a library in the village, and besides taverns and boarding-houses, there are five dry-goods and grocery stores. There are tv;o public papers issued weekly, of which the one circu" "ates 700, the other 400. The prevailing winds are fi om the north-west, and the winters are cold. - ^^ Saratoga springs are seven miles to \he northward, and arc es- teemed stronger tlian those of Ballston. 70 ■J / n 551 TRAVELS IH ".h '.■ ^. r i 1 :■< v* -J, .:" I CHAPTER GVIII. \ Waterfotdj — CoJigesfalls^ — Alhanrj. November nth. There had been a great deal of rain laat night and this morning ; but it cleared up about 1 1 o'clock, and I set out at 12. The land in the immediate neighbourhood was poor, and continued so during the first three miles of my journey. I pass- ed a methodist meeting-house, after which the land improves, the soil being mostly clay, and the timber partly oak and beech. The land is level, and the farms good ; the farm-houses bearing testi- mony to the accumulation of wealth. A mile further on the soil becomes poor, and the houses in their turn bear witness to the po- verty of the inhabitants. Two miles through these lands there is au opening, and a most extensive view to the eastward. Ten miles *rom Ballston I passed a stream of water which nobody could tell me the name of: after this I passed through a farm on the side of a hill, two miles from which 1 came to a tavern, where I stopped to feeil my horse. Leaving this, the land still continued poor and sandy, the timber mostly pine trees; but the settlements are pretty thick for five miles, to a little village, and both soil and settlements improve for four miles more to Waterford, where I took up my lodgings at the Union coffee-house. Waterford was laid out about the year 1 783, and is handsome- ly situated above the confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson rivers. The streets are regular, crossing one another at right angles; and it consists of about 130 houses, containing about 1000 inhabitants. The houses are generally good, some of them elegant; they arepart- . ly frame and partly brick, but the taste for brick predominates. The public buildings are 2 churches and a school-house ; and there are 4 taverns, 25 stores, and 1 newspaper. The inhabitants of Wa- terford consist chiefly of mechanics and their families ; and thcie are two clergymen, three doctors, three schoolmasters and ten law- yers. The village lots ai e 65 feet in front, by 1 30 deep, and sell for from 100 to 2500 dollars. Boarding is 2 dollars 50 cents per week, by the year: the prices of provisions are nearly the same as at Al- bany. There are several mills on the Mohawk river below the falls, one of which is near the confluence of the Moliawk and Hudson. Troy, bany patrol «irrivo< liousc » . v>- r^^^^Jl^^-'' lit wm i N» ■'■ M£W YORKt 555 A company has recently been incorporated to carry on manufac- tures at this place, and they propose to make every article for which they find a demand. The country round is handsome and very healthy, and the soil is possesseil of every variety from good to bad. The price of land is from 2 dollars 50 cents to 75 dollars per acre. Good wood land sells as high as tJiat in the improved state. The Hudson is navigable to this place in vessels of 50 tons bur- den, and the legislature of New York have of late granted *5,000 dollars to improve the navigation between Waterford and Troy. There is a handsome bridge over the Hudson at this place. November 1 8th. The morning was clear, with hard frost; the wind north-west. Previous to leaving Waterford I rode to the middle of the bridge, and had a view of the river and surrounding scenery. The bridge has six piers, and is handsomely built of wood. The river is rapid, and the junction with the Mohawk is seen a little below. There are a number of islands on the west side, and the town of Lansingburg is handsomely situated on the east side. The bottom lands are good ; but the country soon swells out into high hills, of which the sides are poor, and covered with pine wood. As I returned, I kept along the banks of the Mohawk, where I observed the current very rapid, and the soil poor and sandy. A mile and a half from Waterford there is a bridge across the river. On approaching it the road passes through a bed of black slate, which seems to indicate a stratum of coal below. About a quarter of a mile above the bridge, the Cohoes falls appear, and, from the bridge fronting them, there is a very fine view. I stood a while to contemplate it, but my admiration was lost in the recollection of the amazing falls of Niagara. I'he river is here about 250 yards wide, and the falls are peri)endicular, but some parts are broken, and the rocks are to be seen through them. At the end of die bridge I paid a toll of 6^ cents ; and close by the toll-bar I perceived the nine mile stone from Albany. The road proceeds close by the river side, the hills being piet- ty lofty to the right, the soil indifferent, but the road excellent. Six miles above Albany, on the opposite side of the river, is Troy, a handsome village, mostly built with brick. Towards Al- bany I passed an elegant house, the seat of Mr. Van Rensselaer, patron of the city ; and passing through well-improved fieMi, I arrived at 1 1 o'clock, when I took up my lodgings at the coH«e- liousc in State-street. i< h I \ I i ;■ ^* . < - i i • V * K. r ■^ 55G TRAVELS IN >/] h t ;> V My four of discovery being completed, I had no very im- portant information to receive at Albany; but I still continued my journal, and Mr. Fellows of Geneva having favoured me with letters of introduction to Mr. Southwick and Mr. North, these two gtBtlcmen showed me a great deal of attention, and obligingly answered all my inquiries. In obedience to the request of my friend Mr. M'Intyre, 1 called on his son, the comptroller, arid he also showed me much attention. I was quite pleased with my visit. Albany is the seat of government of the state of New York, and is situated on the west side of the Hudson river, at the head of tide water, 180 miles from the sea. It runs nearly a mile along the river, and about ludf a mile back from it. The city is divided into streets, some of which are spacious, but others rather narrow and irregular. They are however pretty convenient, and there is a line of excellent wharfs and warehouses. The houses amount to about 1300, and the inhabitants to nearly 10,000. The houses are mostly built of brick, and many of them are elegant. The state- house stands on an elevated situation at the head of State-street, and is a very handsome building, with most splendid and convenient apartments for the legislature to meet in. The old state-house is also in State-street, and is occupied by the different public ofHces. The other public buildings are the arsenal, powder-house, city library, 3 banks, 10 churches, 2 market houses, 2 masonic lodgeis, a theatre, and Cook's reading-room, an institution probably better supplied with newspapers, and other periodical publications, than any other in the United States. The city is well supplied with water. There are two excellent springs three miles to the westward, from whence it is conTeyed in pipes, to every part of the city. Lots in the principal streets are as high as ia New York, and the rent of houses and stores is in proportion. This being the great mart, in which the trade o^aii extensive back country centres, itis well supplied with provisions; but the outlet to the great commercial city, New York, is so tasy, by the fine river Hudson, that all articles which can be easily ship- ped, are kept prtity high. Flour is about 10 dollars per barrel ; beef 6 dollars; pork 5 dollars per cwt.; bacon 12 cents per lb. ; fowls 12^ each; geese 25 ; turkeys 62; cyder 1 dollar 50 cents per barrel ; beer 3 to 10 dollars, according to quality ; porter 7 dol- lars 25 cents. "Board from 2 to 4 dollars. House-rent for m»> chanics 20 to 60 dollars. \\ * -i»^!m.r very im- ^ontinued ine with rlh, these >bligingly St ol" my ir, arid he tj my visit, lew York, the head mile along is divided »er narrow nd there is amount to houses are The state- Itate-street, convenient ite-house is iblic offices, house, city mxc lodges, >ably l)etter tions, than ro excellent som'eyed in streets are stores is in trade otiian provisions ; , ia so tasy, easily ship- per barrel ; its per lb. ; 10 cents per (orter 7 dol- ;nt for mo- wf NEW YORK. 557 The principal manufactures at Albany are those of grain, brew* Hig and distilling. There arc no manufactories of cloth in the city, but there are several in the neighbourhood, and there is a disposi- tion in the citizens to encourage them, though apparently against their interest, the trade of the city being almost wholly commercial. The principal trade is by the river, on which is sent down grain and provisions, timber, malt-liquors, and spirits ; and f hey receive in return groceries, dry-goods, hardware, and crockery, to sup- ply a great part of the country. American manufactured glass, however, begins to make a prominent appearance in the warehouse ; and they will, no doubt, feel the advantage of other articles of American manufacture soon. Albany, from its situation, must be always a place of extended commerce. At present it suffers by the re-action of an overstrained foreign commerce, but that will be but temporary. Internal manufactures and commerce, being once organized, will more than compensate for the loss of the other. The citizens of Albany are very mixed. The original settlement was by the Dutch, and their descendants form a very prominent part of the society. Of Scottish settlers there are a great many, and the rest are principally New Englanders. In such an assem- blage, we may naturally look for industry and enterprise, and a general attention to education and the improvement of the mind, all of which are very perceptible in the citizens. There are good mechanics in all the different branches ; and there are 10 clergymen, 20 doctors, and 45 lawyers. The schools are numerous; the li- brary and reading-room have been already noticed. Two newspa- pers are published, each twice a week, which have a pretty exten- sive circulation. That the place is healthy, appears in the counte- nances of the ladies, many of whom are handsome, with beautiful florid complexions. That it is cold in winter, is indicffted by the general use of stoves, the hard frost in the ground, and the appear- ance of snow ; so, for fear of being storm-staid, I shall close ilun chapter, and hurry off to New York. ,, . - '•' y. CHAPTER CIX. - i*\i^i ■. '.iJ'; Korth IJiv r Steam ^oaty — Highlands, — Stony Point, — Nc^ York. J^OVEMBER 40th. My anticipations were realized ; there was a considerable fall of snow thi;^ morning. I engaged a passage for r 11 1 J A 568 TRAVELS IN my liorso by one of the packets, tare 4 dollars, exclusive of board: and for myself by the steam 'boat, fare 7 dollars, including board; and, getting on board of that elegant conveyance, \re started from the wharf at 9 o'clock, The snow continued to full, and the weather was very hazy, so that we could not enjoy the view on tho river, but we had a very conifortdble view in the boat. The cabin was sufficiently large to accommodate 80 or 100 people; the births were neatly mounted with drapery, and contained good jclean bed- ding ; there was a good stove in the room ; our company, though not numerous, were sociable and agreeable ; and our captain kept a most excellent table. 1 should mention that this was the North river steam-boat, captain Roorbach, and to that gentleman's po- liteness I was indebted for a variety of information regarding this river. Four other steam-boats were upon the river, but it was suj) posed that two of them would be stopped, as they were started without the sanction of the patentees. A most superb new boat had just been started by the patentees, Livingston and Fulton, who aro entitled to great praise for their exertions in bringing into ac- tive operation an invention of such importance to the navigation ol the American inland waters. The banks of the river are neai'ly the same us above Albany, for 20 miles, to Hudson ; the soil is pretty good, and the settlements thick on both sides. The river is a noble stream, augmented, as it proceeds, by a great number of tributary streams on each side. Towards night, we were four miles below Poughkeepsie, and the captain, tlunking it too dark to run on, came to anchor, and re- mained during the night. November Ulst. The morning was cold and cloudy, with a north-west wind ; and a good deal of snow lay on the ground. We got mpder weigh at 6 o'clock. At 7 we were opposite New- burgh, a good landing on the west side, and five miles beyond this, we reached the highlands, through which we sailed 20 miles. Here the banks are steep and very romantic, in many places re- sembling the scenery on the Ohio; but there is a vast difference in the fertility of the soil. On the Ohio it is rich, with a most luxu- riant profusion of timber. Here it is poor, and the timber is small in proportion. Each river, however, has its peculiar beauties. We passed a number of cascades issuing from the hills. At Stony Point, the remains of an old fort are still to be seen, in a very com- manding situation. Here the river makes a sharp turn to the east» and the place was pointed out where the Americans had a chain of board : ig board ; irtcd from and the icw on tho rhe cabin the births ;lean bcd- y, though ptain kept the North man's po- irding this it was sup ' ;re started w boat hail n, who are g into ac- navigatiou Ubany, for settlements mentcd, as each side, ie, and the or, and re- dy, with a le ground. )osite New- lies beyond d 20 miles. y places rc- ifference in most luxu- bcr is small ir beauties. At Stony a very com- to the east* ad a chain KEW YORK. 599 Across in the time of war, which we were informed was broken by the British ships. The river appears here Uke a small lake, and being land-locked on all sides by lofty hills, forms a romantic and singular view. Soon after this, we emerged from among tlie mountains. When we approached the low lands, we saw a number of very handsome seats. The luud on the east side is low, and appears tertile. To the eastward a bay is perceived, which appears like a continuance of the river, while the real channel is apparently lost among the mountains. The west bank continues high, though caltivated a considerable way down. At length, however, it In- comes a crugiry precipice, almost perpendicular, and upwards of 600 feet high. The scenery is altogether very grand, and in sum- mer, when tl\i- fields and woods are in blossom, sailing on this river, by the steam-boat, must be delightful. There are good turnpike roads on each side of the river, and there are very thick settlements all the way between Now York and Albany. The principal towns on the east side are: , ■ '••■ Inhabitants. * ' Inhabitants. Kinderhook 9m On the west side, .. . ' Hudson 4000 , New Baltimore . ". Redhook Cochsakia ^ llhynbeck Katskill . 2000 Poughkeepsie ■ * 500 Kingston FishkiU Newburg . t, .,,,. Feekskill , Si*!, '.'• ..i We passed the Jersey line on the west side, and, soon after, the river which separates York Island from the main land. At five o'clock we reached New York, where I was safely landed on the wharf, after travelling nearly 2400 miles : and with gratitude to the Supreme Being, for conducting me through the journey so much to my satifaction, I proceeded to the house i>f my friend, where I was further gratified by learning that my family and friends were all well. In my progress through this interesting state I met with ** A Brief Topographical and Statistical Manual," a work of con- siderable merit, from which I have extracted the following statii- iicnl table and remarks. 'tf' r '■4 ••'■* i^- ■■ ; 560 W ■'"\ 7 r ' \ f I TJIAVILS IM <^ -^ r< H b 3J| "^1 "^l ' Countiei. Popu- lation. It i I1C9 Yariis of Ctoth. I 1 §: 4 i ft .1. 7 5 10 1 1 10 I i" 8 Albany 8 34o6l 332554 81 Allegany 5 194a 1 51 14148 2 4 nnioine C 8130 8 409 106210 6 9 1 1 Columbia 11 323703 l«67 591 42 124 427 m^^^m ' ^■' ^^Iv^ :i.'3h-^;>i■: ■-■'>•.■».■- ' 1? Tl 10 8 1 11 7 13 '23 4 11 4 13 3.T 13 3 I'J fi 16 a 4 •20 13 25 14 6 2 11 7 14 5 4 19 13 2 H 32 16 20 24 11 (t 1 14 8 1 1 IG 13 27 21 22 IP 39 4 5 2 12 7 4 7 12 2 10 2 5 isi 28 7 11 IS 244271413 NEW YORK 661 The sheep returned for Ducheiis county were 8fJ,S55; Albany S4',3t2; Ciiyu^a 49,872; Onondago 41-,893; Jefferson 20,000, It is calculated that the whole state contains 1,280,000. The horses in Duchess county were Itiytl. It is calculated that the whole state contains 300,000. The cattle in Duchesti county were 51,650. It is calculated thnt the whole itatc contains 1 ,000,000. Roads and bridges, exclusive of those made by counties and individuals, are supported by 135 turnpike companies, with a capital of 7,558,000 dollars ; and 3G bridge companies, with :i capital of 509,000 dollars. The turnpike roads contracted for extend over 4,500 miles, about one third of which is coinpletetl. The bank stock of the state amounts to 11,690,000 dollars. The school fund amounts to 483,320 dollars, exclusive of 314,770 acres of land* The revenue last year amounted to 36,427 dollars. ' • The state funds, exclusive of about one million acres of land, amount to 4,191,803 dollars; and the state debts are 880,000 dollars. CHAPTER ex. . : • United States. • - • The objects of the greatest importatncc in the United States have already been noticed in a review of the Individual states and territories; but there are a few circumstances of a general ntfture, which can with more propriety be introduced under this head. • » Viewing Louisiana as forming a part of the territory of the United States, we may consider the country as extending from north latitude 29° to beyond 48°; and from east longitude 10® to west longitude 36°. The extreme length, from east to west, is about 2160 miles, and breadth, from north to soutli, 1494. The medium length is about 1780 miles, and the medium breadth about 1060, making nearly 1,883,806 square miles, or 1205^635,840 acres,'- •• •■:. ,' v.,-^ . .-...ji.i.i y, .. "] --"'■.- '^ ''i'^- _ The face of the country, mountains, rivers, minerals, soilf an4 climate, have all been partially noticed ; but attempts have of late been made to establish a general theory of the climate of th-^j 71 %'■ r — "^ .ti fft ><■«-.«. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^>. 5?^^ 1.0 i^KA 1^ ■tt lii 12.2 L£ 12.0 I.I ■U It FhotogFa[M: Sciences CorpOTation 23 WKT MAIN STRin WUSTIR,N.Y. 14S80 (71«) 172-4303 '<*^ A V %.- m 5fi9 IJUVELt IM climate of the Uuited States, and I shall take a brief review of that subject. Volney, the celebrated French traveller, was the first who de- veloped this tlmory. He seems to have studied the subject with ardent attention, %nd to have been assisted by information from gentlemen ot accurate observation in America. His work dis- plays great physical research. Dr. Mease has followed on the samd subject. Adopting Volne)F's theory as a basis, he has avail- ed himself of additional local information, and endeavoured to eorrect its errors, and supply its defects. These works contain information on this important subject well worth the attention of the student in physical sciencen 1 shall not, however, review them in d^taif, but briefly «tate a few general conclusions result- ing from them, taken in connection with other facts that have come to ttiy knowledge during a personal h^vestigation. The climate of the United States, independent of the differ- ence of traiperature induced by a change ^f latitude^ se^nstobo affected by five prominent circumstances: - lst< The trade winds. 2d. The gulf stream. . 3d. The fogs of yewfoundfamd. 4th. The winds from, the polar regions. 5th. The Allegany mountains.* 1st. The trade winds were noticed, in chap. II. as affecting the ocean. I shall now trace them in their progress over the kind. By lookuig at a chart of the Athintic ocean, it will be perceived that the coast of South America has a slanting di- iwction from the equator to Trinidad ; and it may be noticed that this slant is prolonged to the south-east, to c«pe St. Roque, in south latitude 50, west longitude S6* 26'. Hie course is nearly north-west, the distance above 2000 miles, and the ulterior of the country is composed of very high lands, rising in many j^ces to lofty monntoing. Thitr naturally slants off the cunmt of air to the northward^ and by contracting its bulk increases its veloci- ty ; its motion being still fiirther accelerated by the same means in its passage throu^ the Caribbee Islands. In itt progress through the Caribbean sea it is further contracted, and gets a * Bi the^enl Iftfm, AUcgfnjr mountiivM^ i»ni»Mtt tlw wlwk du^ of noun- taiui tltOM^g Asm Ui« Missiasip^i Tcn-itvrjr to tbe northen extremity of the univn. m NEW YOBK. S6S second impulse to the northward between the lofty island of' Ja- maica and the Mosquito shore ; and finally passes through the narrow channel between Yucatan and the island of Cuba, from whence it issues to the northward, not unlike the wind from a pair of bellows. It then diverges, in three grand divisions, along the North' American continent. One Itranch takes a north-west di- rection, ond, passing over New Mexico, and thence between tht Stony mountains and the Pacific ocean, spends its force about north latitude 52°. Another branch takes a north-east direction, blowing partly over the mountains, but principally between the mountains and the Atlantic, and spends its force about the Poto- mac or Patapsco rivers. This branch is affected partly by the mountains, and partly by the trade winds to the north of the islands. It is very unsteady, which circumstance subjects that dis- trict of country to rapid changes. But the mOst important branch to this inquiry is that which proceeds up the falley of the Mississ^pi, which mlty be reckoned to extend from the AU^any mountains to the chains of |)v)untains beyond the Mississippi, an immense region, known by the name of the Western Country. The operation of this current was quite visibk in the course of niy progress through that country. Fropi the time I pass^ the Allegany mountains until I lefl Pittsburg, it prevailed seven days out of teti. In my passage down the Ohio it prevailed fifteen out of twenty-six, and five of the others were calm. From thp falls of the Ohio to lake Erie it prevailed twenty days out of thirty one, and two days were calm, From Cleveland, on lake Erie, to Utica, it prevailed ten days out of twenty- three. I have elsewherf repaarked, that a branch of it seems occasionally to blow down the Mohawk river ; and its influence is often sensibly felt at Mon- treal, on the St. Lawrence.' It is obvious that tl}|s wind must have great influence upon the climate; it fans the air i|i sumtner, aqd renders it mild and humid in winter. 2d. The gulf stream w^ noticed phap. II. Tliis current be- ing warmer than the surrounding ocean, the atposphere above ii is proportionably aflected, and being contiguous to the American coast, the winds blowing over it, impr^nated with its warmth and moisture, will influence the climate accordingly. This influ- ence is particularly felt in the southern states, where the stream is frpm within 30 to 60 miles of the coast. Beyond Cape Hatteras it is not so apparent, and beyond Cape Cod it is hardly known. South ,j^- ^i •4^ » I 'I 561; TBAVSLS IN and sooth-eMt winds are those subject to be influenced by it on the American coast. Sd. Wke fogs of Newfoundland are of great extent, and li%in a north-j&wrection from the United States. North-east winds, theref6»S|lll in spring, summer, and foU, be chilly and damp, in winter uey will be loaded with snow. The part of the United States in#8t subject to their influence are the New England states, with p0$^ the st^teff of New Yoik, Pennsylvania, and New Jer- sey. 4th. The winds from the polar regions are well known in the .UnitM States by the name of north-westers ; and it is somewhat singular that they are much more frequent to the cast than to the w^t of tl)e mountains; ^d oiiten exhibit a very difierent appear- To the east they are cold, cool, or agreeable^ acconling to the 1 ^ojjLjituation ; and are uniformly pure, dry, elastic, and >rs[tn^ To the west they assume every variety, but are ^anied by clouds, rain,, hail, and snow ; particularly of the great lakes. To account for these circum- lecessary to view the Allegany mountains as connect- ^ubjectt and I cannot better elucidate it than in the ingenious Volney. " The Allegany is the shore of which, below the level of the top of this bank, is at it^lN^ by the movements of the stratum above it^ Hence wind traverses the valley of the Mississippi and cy and the contiguous coi^ntriei, as far as the valley IWrence, by which it flows off^ while the north-west stream gjtifiea over it diagonally, and, overtopping the highest mountains, pours down on the maritime country, where its force is augmented by its own specific gravity, the slope of the eartli's surface, and the tacuity above She ocean in the south-east." The most remarkable feature in the clunate east of the moun- tains is the sudden and great changes, from heat to cold and from QiiDiitt to dry. These changes are most remarkable oh the sea- board. In the interior the climate is more settled, and amongst the mountains it is colder thau to the east or west of them. In the western country tlie climate is more settled and more mild than to the ^^ of the niountainS| but this district is subject to a good deal of jrji^llin winter. Volney Iiiasdrawn thefollowinggeneral conclusions on the subject: 1st. The climate of the maritime region js colder in winter, and " ■'ll"..llili.,.i 'i'l.. ,»-» ->..^ .^ » iii * i..». *^^ ,'^Wj^lWlWlB^*^* I'ABLE .TES. Illation. 6934. 2757 I3W0 171G9 mil 15772 16373 3002 1210 44<16 S583 8208 |9735 2500 4.711 5215 2540 4326 1000 .7242 1511 670 622 1650 1500 'V Scats of ( Name. Concord Montpelier Boston Portland Providence Hartford Albany Trenton Harrisburg Dover Annapolis VVasiiinoton Richmond Ualuigh Columbia Milledgeville iZanesville Frankfort Knoxville New Orleani Natches Vincennci Kaskaskia Detroit St. Louii Latitud) Produce. -^ 4I< H 42 23 43 36 41 .',2 41 45 42 38 40 14 40 16 39 8 38 58 38 53 37 31 35 52 33 58 32 58 39 57 38 13 35 55 29 57 31 35 38 51 37 39 42 24 38 38 Grain, cattle, &c Do. do. do. do. do. do* do. do. 'do. - ■|)p do. 00. t(()bacco. Uo. do. Do. do. cotton. [Cotton, rice. "Do. do. [Grain, cattle, &c. Do. do. ICotton, grain, &c. Do. sagar, rice. Do. rice, grain. [Grain, cattle, &c. Do. do.' [Grain, cattle. Grain, cotton, rice. %t. Tv/ace rage §61 4,.- - -•fifel STATISTICAL 1 OF THE UNITED STA' Extent. Area. Population . r5 flj Chief Towns. STATES. o.t; Greatest Length. Greatest breadth. 92 Miles. Acres. - 1790. 1800. 1810. inhabit! squnri Acres 1 inhafa Name. Popula New Hampshire 182 9491 6074210 141885 183858 2144rt0 23 2.*^ Portsmouth 69 Vermont lb6 93 1 02:17 65516S0 85539 15446.5 217895 21 30 Springfield 27 Massachussetts 1 District of Maine j 190 100 8765 560't600 378787 422S45 472040 54 12 Boston 332 250 192 34000 «1 760000 96540 151719 221705 7 95 Portland 71 Rhode Island 45 43 1.'548 990720 6882.5 69122 76931 50 13 Providence 100 Connecticut 63 72 4400 2816000 2y7v>46 251002 261942 60 10 Newhaven 57 New York 340 317 52125 S33600('0 340120 586203 959049 18 34 New York 963 New Jersey 14.5 60 7920 SO(i8S00 184139 211149 215562 81 21 Trenton 30 Pennsylvania 320 162 49390 3160!)f)00 434373 602:i65 810091 16 39 Pliiladelphia 1112 Delaware 100 37 2200 1408000 59094 64273 72674 33 19 Wilmington 44 Maryland 212 123 14000 896(X-00 319728 349692 380546 27 21 Baltimore 355 District of Columbia 10 10 100 64^000 24023 240 Washington 82 Virginia 442 235 70.500 45120000 747610 886149 974622 14 46 Richmond 97 North Carolina 472 1^8 50500 32.32(K)00 393751 478103 555.500 11 58 Newbern 25 South Carolina 236 210 33880 21()832(K) 249073 345591 415115 12 52Charleston 247 Georgia 305 2.59 60000 S.SWOOOO 82548 162684 2.52433 4 l52'Savannah 5'J Ohio 228 227 4:;860 28070400 45365 230760 5 121 Cincinnati 2.' Kentucky 32S 183 40110 2-.670t00 73677 220960 406511 10 68iLexington 4: Tennessee 420 104 43200 27648000 35691 105602 261727 6 106 Knox ville 1( Louisiana 300 241 41000 26^240000 765.56 2 356JNew Orleani 17^ Mississippi Territory 390 278 88680 567.5.)'200 88.50 40352 l406|Natcht;8 1.' Indiana Territory 284 1.55 39000 249(i0000 5641 24520 1019 Vincennes ( Illinois Territory 347 206 S2(»(X) 33280000 12282 2718 Kaskaskia I Michigan Territory 256 154 34820 22284800 3206 4762 4680 Detroit 1 Louisiana Territory 1494 886 9852.50 6305(i0000 20S45 30250 St. Louia 1 North- West Territory 486 417 106830 681'" 1200 1883806 1205635840 3929S26 5308844 7239903 »TEfrr««;-ji {^imi a^ ■ STICAL TABLE OF THE TED STATES. V iti j.r M 3^ 2S 30 V> 95 13 10 34 21 39 19 21 Chief Towns. Name. Population. Portsmouth Springfield lioston Portland Providence Newhaven New York Trenton Piiiladelphia Wilmington Uahiinore WHshington 46 Richmond 58 Newbern 52Charleston l52Savannah ISrCincinnati 68iLexington l06Knoxville 356JNtiw Orleani HOGiNatches lOiyiVincennes 2718 4680 Kaskaskia Detroit 30250 St. Louu 6934 2757 33250 7169 10071 5772 96373 3002 1112 '0 4416 3558'i 8208 9735 2500 2*711 5215 2540 4326 1000 17242 1511 670 622 1650 1500 Seats of Government. Members to Congress. Name. Concord Moiitpelier Boston Portland Providence Hartford Albany Trenton Harrisburg Dover Annapolis VVASHIi^OTOK Richinond Kaleigh Columbia Miileil or 45** the eastern and western country are nearly at- similated, and to the south beyond 32" the same effect takes place, with this exception, that the breeze to the westward is more perma- nent and steady, which will probably contribute, with other fa- vourable circumstances, to render New Orleans more healthy than Charleston and Savannah. , The climate has been divided into four sections, the coldest^ middle, hot, and temperate ; to which I shall add a fifth, the wanD» and proceed to mark the different lines of distinction. 1st. To the coldest I would assign that portion lying north east of a line drawn from the east end of lake Ontario, to the east end of Long Island sound. In this region the winters commence about the first of December, and last till the end of March ; and are very severe. The heat of summer commences in June, and ends in August. Both heat and cold go to great extremes ; but the coun- try is generally healthy. 2d. The middle may be included between the aforesaid lii.v; ind a line drawn from the east end of Lake Erie to where the moun- tains cross the New York state line— thence along the top of the Allegany ridge to the latitude of Washington— thence due east through Washington to the Atlantic. In this region the frost is less steady, though often severe; and the rivers are firequently ob- structed by ice. Towards the south and east, the winter weather ii variable, passing firequently from cold to mild, and from snow to rain. The winters commence about the middle of December, and end in February. The heat of summer commences in May, and ends in September. I \ .■»« 666 TRAVILS IN ' Sd. The hot climate may be defined by running a line along tfie ridge at the head of tide waters, from Washington through Rich- mond in Virginia, Raleigh in North Carolina^ Columbia in South Carolina, Milledgeville in Georgia ; and extending from thence to where the S2d degree of latitude crosses the Mississippi above Katches. In this region, between that line and the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico, frost and snow are but of short duration, and to the south they are seldom seeifi. The winters are very variable, but generally pleasant and healthy. The summers commence in April and end in November; and the heat is often very oppressive. 4th. The warm region extends from the last mentioned line to the foot of the mountains, and winding round their southern ex* tremity in Georgia, latitude 34** SO^, the line may thence be pro> tracted due west to the Mississippi. In this region the weather w more settled, and though the summers have nearly the same dura- tion as in the hot region, the heat is more moderate. 5th. The temperate region includes all the space beyond these lines i|s far west as the latitude of n°, and north to lat. 49** ; be* yond which my researches did not extend. The summers com- mence in April, and end in October. The winters commence in December, and end in February. The springs and falls are de- lightful, and both summers and winters are moderate. America was first discovered by Christopher Columbus, on the 12th of October, 1492. In 1499, an oflicer sailed on a voyage of discovery, accompanied by Amerigo Vespucci, a Florentine, and n man of science, who, €D hi» return to Europe^ published the first description of the new tsorld, in consequence of which he received an honour, eminently due to Columbus, that of afiixing his name to this vast continent. The settlement of the United States took place as follows ; 1610 Virginia i«iA 5 New York *"* > New Jersey 1623 New Hampshire 1627 JI^®^^""^® ^Pennsylvania 1623 Massachusetts 1633 Maryland 1635 Connecticut 1635 Rhode Island 1699 South Carolina 1^28 North Carolina ] by Lord Delaware by the Dutch by a small English Colony by the Swedes & Finlanders by John Endicott k Co. by Lord Baltimore by Mr. Fenwick by Roger Williams by Governor Sayle from South' Carolina VNITID STATUS 6S7 Along tlie igh Rich- i in South thence to [ypi above antic and m, and to r variable, imence in ipprcuive. ed line to uthern ex* ce be pro- weather '» tame dura- ^ond these t. 43® ; be- men com- mmence in dls are de^ )as, on the xompanied icnce, who, of the new , eminently t continent. Hows ; »lony anderst Do. 1739 Oeorgia 1764 Vermont 1773 Kentucky 1774 Tennessee 1787 Ohio 1803 Louisiana L/ General Oglethorpe. from New England by Daniel Boone from North Carolina, &c. by the Ohio and other compamei ceded by France. The following are some of the most remarkable events befbra and since the rev^tion. 1765 The stamp aefpassed 1 773 The' tea destroyed at Boston 1774 The first congress held 1 775 Battles of Lexington and Bunker*s-hill 1 776 Declaration of Independence, July 4tli 1778 ArUcles of confederation agreed on 1780 Surrender of Lord Comwallis, October 19th 1782 Treaty of peace, November 30th 1 787 The federal constitution adopted 1789 George Washington elected president 1 797 John Adams elected president 1801 Thomas Jefiferson elected president. 1809 James Madison elected president 1812 War declared against Britain, June 18th. The annoced statistical table presents a summary view of the extent oi the country, populaticm, chief towns, climate, produce, &c The agriculture and produce of the sevoul states and terri- tories have been noticed. The progress of manufiictures has also been attended to, parti- cularly in a review of the secretary of the treasury's report, page 274 ; I may here add a brief abstract of a late compilation by Dr. Mitchell, of New York, from documents in the treasury department. lbs. SHUP. Vermont MasMchusetCs Connecticut Pennsylvania SALTPBTRI. 450000 299182 400000 1469918 2719100 Virginia Kentucky Massachusetts 4817.'"> 303137 25600 There apoears to be no return from tne other states; but sheep are abundant in all of tlieob SUGAR. Ohio Kentucky E. Tennessee Vermont 37.1612 S033806 2471647 li52240 I2D00(X) •uw 6S67n9J ^V'fj* V'Uk -t ^ JU* ' "" "" ' «»nr* V-lffi*;)aii M ^^m^'-'-'i 568 UNITBD STATU. ri f roMBi. value Connecticut dol. 7000U MaaMchuactti 80624 Pennsylvania 6340 T5595r C0PPBRA8. 11m. West Tennessee 56000 Vermont 8000 64000 STRAW BONHKTS. Massachusetu 559dl8 Connecticut 27100 £87018 Gun-powder mills, 207-~lbi. 1450000 Furnaces, forges, A, 590 Paper'milU, 190 Cotton mills, 1st August, 1810, S90-4pindles. lOOOOO Cotton yarn, 500000 Iba. Looms, SfiOOOO Yards ol cloth, 7500000 Fulling ikAIs, 16^ Carding machines, 1825* The foreign commerce of the United States has sufTcrcd severe- ly by the restrictions of foreign powers, and it will now be materi- ally affected, no doubt, by the present war; but such is the profu- sion of provuions and raw materials in the United States, which some of the belligerent powers cannot do very well without, that there must be a considerable export trade under any circumstances. In 1 MX) the exports amounted to dol. 7097 1 780 * > In 1805 do. domestic produce 42S87002 Foreign do. 53179019 — 95566021 In t810 domestic do. 42S66675 Foreign do. 24S91295 66757970 And the following table exliibits the last return at the treasury-office.. UNITED STATES EXPORTS. A summary of the value of exports Jrcm each state^ i N. Hampshire UOMKSXIO S15054 rokuoM 53809 WCAL 368863 Vermont 538306 32798 571104 Matisachusetts 6042645 5192820 11235465 Rhode Island 944868 6265«6 1571424 Connecticut 994216 38138 1032354 New York 8747700 3518515 12266215 Carried over 175H27'$9 94626S6 27045425 . * It win be retdilyperceiTcd that this is only a partial account. Itl* tobermMttrd that a mor* general return is not made when the cenaua is taken. Materials for a very vahiaUa set of statistical tables night be collected enry 10 yeaist along with the names of the inhahitants. Indeed it would N an easy matter to procure materials for a na- tional geography, wjiich might be published every 10 yean, under the auiyiccs at the United States. The profits on the sale of such a woili would da) much mere than de- fray the expense of a national geographical establishment. It is ahp to be ragNtted, I think, that Ae returns from a number of the districta are defective^ insofar aa tlMy do not state the population in towns and cities. The inhabitanta an indvded in the gene- ral return for the respective counties ; but were the particular enumeration in each towH «i4 city kispt s^arate^ it wouM be more satisfactory. #*> In. 110, • \- \ \ scvere- I materi- le profu- I, which )ut, that D«tance8* iry-office. IbenfNtted for • very tkenaiBM for aM- ^cta of d>e if dun de- |t^{HMcd,I ]m tMy i» In the gene- each tOWH NAME8 I of th« 3 DISTRICT! S and f TERRlTORlJ Diitrict of y ^ 969 7S7 870 750 Mitine MaiNcI VemKir J^* 609 &"*^ 453 NewJe?" Peon.|l 2 Ohio North <'J2 South ( Georgii 807 5541 801 TcrrilMyof Orleam .g . Xlittiui Louiriai Indijni Illiaois,^,. MtehigfJJ Diatrict •! Coinm\ 20 ]»49 440 J! 60 108 910 15017 10851 7P5 417 ■11150? 3925 1 8 80561 168824 9370 35159 1963ti5 105218 ■ 22S705 472040 314460 217893 76931 261942 95904M 245562 810091 72874 380544 974022 230760 4005 H 555500 101367 160360 41.^115 252433 } 70074« S4660 17088 3011 237 168 24 5595 1191364 76556 40352 20845 24520 12282 4762 24023 723()90S } 2017^ Total in tht United Statei, 7036563 Total ia tbo Territorias* 203340 Oraad Toul. 72999SC To fact Pi^ 691, ■>^,'t - '•A Jr- •h«-««>*^VIM^ %■„ i> ■ » « CBNSUS OF THE UNI' FOR 1810. i ... - . * FREE WHITE MALES. FREE WHiJ i i NAMES of the ' DISTRICTS and 4 M> m 'S S 1 9 1 s 1- *z ■ S W a ; TERRITORIES. o 1 1 1 1 O 1 * • o to s 5 o « ■■ o i o O ■9 o c 2 Diairict of Mnine 41273 14463 20403 22079 13291 39131 17827 MastacbaiMtii 689.10 34964 45018 45854 34970 668!il 33191 ■4 N«w Hampshire 34284 17840 18865 20^31 144d2 32313 1725 2( Vermont 38082 18340 19678 2078] 13053 36621 17341 2( filMde Island 10735 5554 7250 6765 5 ^3i, I05j( 53H- 'i Cunaecticut 37812 20498 23880 23699 2048 3591] 18>^31 24 New York 165933 73702 85779 94882 ^3985 I579IJ 68811 8^ i New Jersey 37814 18914 21231 21394 16004 36()6^ 17787 21 Peanij'lvania 138464 62606 74203 74193 52I0W >13l7«(i 609+3 7^ \ ^^•^ DeiawaM 0632 4480 5150 5866 2878 9041 4370 1 •• Marylaad 38613 1S4S9 22688 2525.'> 15165 36 137 17833 2J Virginia 97777 42919 51473 52567 35302 90715 4-'207 5^ Ohio 46623 18119 20189 22761 1 1 m 44192 'l*>rtO» li "Kmtnckj 65134 26804 29772 29553 17542 60776 25743 2{ North Carolina 68036 30321 34630 34450 21189 65421 30053 3' East Tennessee 18392 7618 8266 753!,' 4998 17416 7210 1 West Tennessee 26102 9552 11220 12418 5658 24394 9113 I South Carolina 39669 17193 20933 2048b 1^1304 37497 Itit^y 2( Georgia 28002 11951 14085 1437'i 7435 26283 11237 1 rcrrkmyofOrleaaa 5848 2491 2963 5130 2508 5384 2558 ' Slississippi 42 J 7 1637 296^ SI6( • 1144 4015 1544 Louisiana 3438 1345 1568 206fc 967 3213 126^ Indiana 4923 1922 2284 2316 1 12*5 4535 1863 Illinois 2266 945 1274 ia3L' 550 2019 791 Michigan DkkNCt af Columbia 80G 35 1 583 76.) S40 640 335 2479 1158 1520 2107 866 2538 1195 1035278 46^83 547597 572347 964730 0S142fl 448324 56 m P THE UNITED STATES, FOR 1810. :.h^:' " FREE WHITE FEMALES ■ ■ I 1 .i " • i 1- S w ■a a 1^ 1 3 1 1 li 1 1 . ■ 1 t s 9 9 e i 5 GO .' ' , i^ ^ •O •W •o «*• « •™ ' . o 9 a <• a m s |1 1 -- ■■ ■ 1 o 40 'a ts 1- • ■ •g U-. (m (M «t. s ) D o o o o < • 3291 39I9I 17827 2129G 21464 12515 969 228705 l70074« 4y70 668!il 33191 46366 49229 39894 6737 1 472040 44u2 32313 1725 20792 21940 15204 970 ) 2I44«0 3053 5 tSl. 36621 17341 20i>83 20792 11457 750 217893 1055( 5SH> 7520 7035 6172 S609 108 76931 '; )48 3591) 18.431 24973 2(>293 22696 6453 310 261942 )y85 1579 IJ 68811 85139 85805 46718 25333 15017 959049 •' iOOA 3606^ 17787 21194 2 359 15109 7843 10851 24556fl 1 ii]6^ 36137 17833 23875 22908 14154 3:^927 111502 380546 302 90715 4-'207 54899 51103 32512 30570 392518 974622 '■■ J65 44192 •l*>rtO!J 1991*0 19436 8717 1899 230760 542 60776 25743 29511 85920 l.'H82 1713 80561 406511 im 65421 30053 37933 33944 20427 10266 168824 555500 998 17416 721 ( 855:^ 7348 4129 510 9370 101367 }2aiT«7 658 24394 9113 11305 10276 4356 807 35159 160360 304 37497 lfi62^ 20583 18974 10926 4554 1963f)5 415115 Total in tht 435 26283 11237 13461 12350 6238 1801 105218 252433 United Statei, 7036563 508 144 5384 4015 2558 1544 2874 2187 3020 1753 1499 675 7585 240 34660 17088 76556 40352 ff ww^'vV** 967 3213 1265 1431 1369 562 607 son 20645 I2'5 4555 1863 2228 1880 794 993 237 24520 550 2019 791 1053 894 > 364 613 168 12282 140 640 332 368 311 130 120 24 4762 Tottl in tb* GrtQd 166 2538 1192 1653 1734 832 2549 5595 24023 Territorits« 203340 Toul. 78S99S0 22 0S1426 448324 . 561668 544156 338378 186446 1191364 7239903 ■Mi To fan Pi ««507. /,«,vi,- ;: ■ i %• ^ll^'-' m i -■ TasA! By: on ^ c C Lea Of The The B The The B P' ^. ■' -••*. -iNl mm #•<• » UMITID iTATBS. Brought forward 17582789 9462636 27045425 New Jersey 1871 1871 Pennsylvania 5694447 SS65670 9560117 Delaware 76945 11687 8B632 Maryland 4553582 2280405 €833987 . 'D. Columbia 2060S31 2920 2063251 Virginia 4798612 N. Carolina 798975 23695 4822307 4001 797976 ^ S. Carolina 4650984 210295 4861279 • ' Georgia 2557225 11641 2568866 +Ter. U. S. 2523282 149840 2673122 Total dol. 45294043 16022790 61316933 '' ^Georgetown 61966 1810 63776 Alexandria 1998364 1110 2920 1632 1999474 Total dol. 2060330 2063250 : ''^ fMichigan Ter. 19997 Mississippi do. 1441 ' '-'- New Orleans 2501842 21629 1441 148208 2650050 569 Total dol. 2523280 149840 2673120 Treasury Dbpartment. Rbgisteh's Office, Jan. 20, 1812. JOSEPH NOURS£, Register. By an average of 180^, 3, and 4, the imports were: Prom Britain and colonies d«L 35968890 Holland, France, Spain, Italy, &c. 3547 1 1 10 Northern powers, Prussia, Germany, &c. 7093SSO 1^^ Portugal, &c. 1106670 China, and other native powers in Asia, 4868890 s All o^er countries, 835560 Of these were rc'exporte^, Manufactured goods. Coffee, Sugar, Other articles, dol. 75334450 9778000 7533000 5777000 5355000 28444300 Leaving for the United States, dol. 46890150 Of which about 30O0000O dollars may be reckoned for clothing. The imports from Britain were as alcove 25968890 ' The exports to Britain were Balance in &vour of Britain, The exports to ether European powers were The imports from these powers were Balance agaiatt these p OTvers, 72 23100000 d^l. 12868890 45333340 33662230 dol. 1I671UO --'-.irf^- -•.■■'*■**»!■,■■ , i I- S: BtO rOnttth ffTATii* In 1S(J5, 9, ind 7, this (exports to and import* from Aifaerid^ in Bri' tain, ttood i» follows : Eiporib iBipuitSi 1805 £.UMG09S if.407680S 1806 12865551 4S60749 1807 12097942 653H10 36409586 149689.56 Ealance in jfavour of fiMtain in these three years, i?.2144^do. In federal currency, 95266800 dollars. The fpllowing extract from B\od^i*s statistical tables of 1809, shows the progress of society, and national wealth. UnitcdStatcs' territory! 280000000 RoadcandcanaIs,valuedoI. II 500000 Improved lands ]>wrelltng houses Colleges Academies Horses Cattle '';••»,. 40950000 Bridges do. 5000000 1S75000 Shipping tons 12.50000 25 Metallic medium dol. 20500000 74 Banks, d2 capital 51500000 1400000 Bank-notes in circulation 18500000 S660000 Insurance companies* 18600000 f capital ^ • NATIONAL PUNDS. Lets in Washington doL 1500000 Western public lands 250000000 Lousiana lands 400000000 iA i National dpbt Sinking fiind del. 651200000 93 11 9694 27597968 65521726 '■'**i!f n tnfvP. ■tt"-:i' dol. 58597 $27 4 The land in this statement is valued at 1 dollar per acre. The total value of the United States is estimated at 2510,000,000 dollars. The federal government have attended to objects of national im- provement with laudable care; numerous public works have been promoted within these last 10 years: the arrangements made in the state of Ohio to promote eUucation are a proof ef their iittention to that subject. They are precluded by the constitution from running lines of roads or canals through the uiilon, without content of the individual states; but tliis important subject has met with due atten- tion, and an elegant plan was devised fbr improving the country by these means, which, but for tlie subsequent di^culties in the foreign relations, would probably have been by this time in practical ope- ration. ^ As it is probable that this important subject will be resum* cd at a future period, I shall here give an -outline of the various vorkscontemplated in the secretary of the treasury'sluminous rqport* .,.>*.'*«S4.- — yi^ Ml jj . .«/fc-^ J, *-».^, ».... rici^ in Bri< ''•<■< t063p. 8 of 1809, ol. 11500000 5000000 >ns 12.50000 •1. 20500000 al 51500000 a 18500000 18600000 8597$274 re. 10,000,000 idtional Im- \ have been [liade in the ittendon to )m running i6eht of the t due attbn- country by the foreign acticAl ope- 1 be resum- Lhe various lous report* VNinCD STATES. ^71 I may first notice that the United States have already, with the assent of the states, agreed to make, at their sole expense, a road from Cumberland, on the Potomac, to Brownsville, on the Monon- gahela, which is the only work of the kind they have undertaken. The following tables will exhibit a view of the different canals and roads contemplated in the report. f I. Line of canals along the Atlantic coast. Canals. 1 ■ -1 ....,-■ Direction. Expence Dollars. Manachuaetu NeirJer»ey Oalaware and r Cberapeak Chesapeakand Albemarle Weymouih to TauiHtm BruRswkk to TrcntoD Christiana to Elk Elizabeth river to Pas^notaQk '■ ' ' ■ ■'« ^ • '26 25 22 22 360 1230000 100 800000 IM 730000 40 250000 98 548 3050000 These canals are calculated for sea vessels, and, should they be completed, will perfect an internal navigation from Boston to St. Mary's, in Georgia, a distance, in a direct line, of more than lOOOjniles. — II. bfpRQyciy^tnr of inland navigation. Improvement of the.navigation of the Susquehannah, Potomac, James, and Santee riyers, from the tide-wa- ters to the highest practical point, to.be dfected princi- pally by canals round the falls, where practicable, ^d by locks when necessary ' 1,500,000 Canal at the falls of Ohio, two miles long, and from 16 to 27 feet deep, 20 feet wide in bottom, and 68 at top, and having three locks 300,000 Improvement of the navigation of the North river, and a canal from thence to lake Champlain, the dis- tance fro^m Waterford to Skeeiiwborough being 50 miles 800,000 t improvement of the navigation from Albany, through the Mohawk and Oswego rivers, to l(|ke Ontario 2,200,000 Cdnal for sloop navigation round the falls of Niagara 1.000,000 dot. #,900,000 u ..i '«; 572 UNITED ITATBS. !•¥>'»■ m- III. Turnpike roads. if^id^il A great road extending from Maine to Georgia« in the general direction of the aearcoast and main post- Toad, and passing though all the principal sea-ports, in length 160D miles, estimated at SOOO dollars per mile 4,800,009 Four great artificial roads from the four great western p rivers, the Allegany, Monongaliela, Kanhaway, and Tennessee, to the nearest corresponding Atlantic ri- * vers, the Susquehannah or Juniata, tl>e Potomac* James >> ' ' river, and cither the Santee or Savannah ; to unite on each river points from which there is a navigation downward, estimated at 100 miles each, being 400 miles^ 'i'*' r'A ut 7000 dollars per mile >»;a#^ '5(' ' 2,800,000 , A post>road froni the Tuscarawa branch of the Mus- ^ kingum to Detroft^distance about 200 miles; putt Another from ^ncinnatti to Sw Louis, by Vincen- j nes, distance SOO miles; < And another froiw'Nashville, in Tennessee, at Athens, -'• in Georgia, to Natdies, distance 500 miles ; , - nt' t In all 1000; miles, at 200 dollars per mile nji^ ; 200,000 ^»s.i ^cmro j^jEI;} jytilili ft III <<«H)fli=iJb •:' .jtv ^,^ .. — _^ . ::yf.. > fb ' :• > ' ru (>»k amounting to » unmctrftraui ?fij S,400,00» Which, added to the sum estimated for general improvements, - " > • • . .^;.... .. 16,600,000 '. ■,..■■•■.* f^ '^tflff i-ySi ; t, mx/:i 4,800,00 • 1 » ■ * t I 2,800,000 200,000 , 7,800,000 Tat J . S,400,00» 2 > 1 16,600,000 20,000,000 vo millions yean, dew to this 1 peoce es- UXmD STATfiS. ft7S tablishment, computed for the year* 1809-1815, the annnnl reve- nue would be dol. 14,000,000 And the expenditure as follows : Annual fund for the discharge of the national debt 4,600,000 ; Expences of goTernment , ^. 3,500,000 ... Contingencies 400,000 8,500,000 ,/ Leaving a surplus of (/o^. 5,500,000 It was calculated that three millions applied annually, during 10 years, would arm every man in the United States; fill the pub- lic arsenals and magazines ; erect every battery and fortification which could be manned ; and even, if thought eligible, build n navy ; leaving a surplus of 2,500,000 dollars ))cr annum. Amongst the resources of the nation, exclusively of the land:; in Louisiana, the general government possesses 100 millions of acres of land, north-west of the Ohio, and near 50 millions south of the state of Tennessee ; and it was believed that it would an- swer a good purpose, to ^ply the proceeds exclusively to promote the improvement of the country ; the more, because the contem- plated two millions could only be appropriated in time of peace, whereas this could be applied permanently, until the most im- portant improvements were effected. It was added, " the fund created by these improvements would afterward become a per- petual fund for still further improvements." The report remarks, that " tlie general utility of artificial roads and canals, is at this time so universally admitted, as hardly to require any additional proofs. It is sufficiently evident, that, when- ever the annual expence of transportation on a certain route, in its natural state, exceeds the interest on the capital employed in improving the communication, and the annual expence of trans- portation by the improved route, the difference is an additional income to the nation. Nor di)cs, in that case, the general result vary, although the tolls may not have been fixed at a rate suf- ficient to pay the undertakers the mterest of the capital laid out. They, indeed, when that happens, lose ; but the community is benefitted by the undertaking." It ffMavos, that dU public works, •which are deemed essential^ and. 'which yet do not hold out a pros- pect of remuneration to individuals, shmdd be executed exclusively ly the public, and /or public account. I • ■ '1 V- i'l u y i 574 INITIO ST4TM. I Hie report states, " that the price of labour is not considered ax a formidablR obstacle, because, whatever it may be, it'equaHj affects the cxpence of transportation, which is saved by the im- provement." The importance of this remark is self-evident, and it may be strengthened by the application of the national force, to promote national objects, by the employment of the army in time of peace. Every nation must have a hired army, to a cer- tain extent, and, by a judicious application of their labour, a great many national objects might be promoted; the condition of the men might be improved by an allowance of additional pay for their labour, while tjie employment itself is favourable to virtu- ous habits, and is perhaps the best means of uniting the duties of the citizen with the soldier. The federal revenue consists mostly of a tax on imports and tonnage, with the produce of the sale of the new lands. It has been already stated, that the revenue for a peace establishment, from 1809 to 1815, was calculated at dol. 1 4,000,000 While the expences of government, includ- ing contingencies, amounted only to 3,900,000 And the annual fund for paying off the national debt 4,600,000 »: ft" ■i'^i:- I'.l'- ."'' t ■ *»> '.•tTTt* 8,500,000 % iLeaving a surplus for national improvements, of dol. 5,500,OOP But, in consequence of the interruption of the foreign com- merce of the United States by the belligerent powers of Eurqie, the revenue has been materially affected ; while preparations for a state of hostility have increased. the expenditure, and exhausted the treasury ; so that all the contemplated improvements have, for the present, been laid aside; and hostilies having actually taken place between the United States and Great Britain, the war will, in all probability, be productive of events that will call for an entirely new system of policy, as to the national reve- nue. In the mean time, a temporary expedient has been resorted to by raising a new loan of 1 1,000,000 dollars; and 100 per cent, has been added to the duties on tonnt^e a^d injiports.* * It ha« ahraf'-appMred to mcv that a reiy simple exp«4!eiTt m^ght be naorted toi wiudiwottldincet,a9y ^afideucy ia the. nationyil revenue, and. supersede tliese- ccisity of loans and excise, ««hile it. would, reader, tbe. cvv^iirT' so tK,»a, tbefinaofcn are concerned, completely independent of foreign trade. ^ , .^ ,j',; >■•' DNltBD STATES. ft75 considered it equaHjr y the im- ident, and onal force, e army in to a cer« ur, a great ion of the il pay for s to virtu- e duties of lists mostly :he sale of e revenue calculated 14,000,000 8,500,000 5,500,OOP eign com- )f Eurc^e, rations for exhausted ents have, g actually fritain, the that will ional reve- m resorted ) per cent. i^^ - t be nsotUd n«de thesc- s, tbe finaotan *^> The federal turrehoy is very simpte* The dollar is established as the mon^y unit, proceeding downwards, by the decimal ratio of tens, Fint The dutle* oa tonnage and iinporto ibould be continued ; and to {iVc fucility pier cent, as tliat holds eUt toe great temptation to smugglcM. These- duUfl% even in time of war, including that on salt, I would estimate at 4,000,000 dollars. Staond. A national bank might be instituted on the following principles : 1st: The capital stock of the bank may be fixed at 50,000,000 dollars, of which the united i^tates might f\irnish 20,000,000 dollars, the basis being land, and the individual ilidka the Wikt 10,000,000 doUan. Sd. The bank to be established at VTashington, and the directors and other ofiee« \tiuin to be appointed by congress. 3d. A branch to be established in every state, with consent of the respective state le- gislatures, who may appoint one-half of the office-bearers, and the quota of the stock, fi»r that state, to be applied cxclu^rvcly to (he branch cstablislied in it. 4itu To presf^rve A unifortnity of circuiting medium, the whole of -die notte t» bo issiidl ht (hie iMk df goVcmihenl, iuiA to be exchanged at all the bmnches. 5th. The bank and its branches to be so organized as to facilitate a general cichai^ throhglbut (he United States : e. g. a perMa at New Orleans wishes to remit to Phi- ladefphla; be could pay the amount into the one branch bAnk, and gdt a draft on'tfie other : and so on diroughout the union. As the profits of a well organised bank are very great, I would be iiM^ined to valUe a revtoue resulting from a natidnU bank at 2,000,000 dollkrs. Third. The deficiency might be contributed by the several >Utei,'iteordtng to itho extent of the population, for example, suppose the sum wanted br0,688,33O^ it wituld be i|iportioned among the several states and teiritories, nearly as fbUows ; NeW Hampshire, del. 214070 South Carolina 334748 Vermont 217595 Georgia 209628 Massachusetts 697763 Ohio 230000 Rhode Island 75M5 Kentucky 373600 Coimecttcat ^ 259236 Tennessee 243387 New York 942909 Louisiana 58658 NeWJewey 238084 Mississippi 334SI l^nnsylvania 800987 Indiana 24268 Delaware y 65848 Illinois , , 11970 Maryland 322374 Michigan 4704 District of Cdruttibia Virginia North Carolina 20845 805426 483864 Louisiana 19400 iS688230 There nuy be some objections to this plan that I am not aware of; but if they are not insuperable, the subject well deserves legislative consideration. The public exigencies must be provided for, and a mode by which the taxes can be raised equally, and with the least possible trouble and expense, is the best. I kiiow of none that would cdinbine these advantages so completely as that alluded to. In a period of peace this plan would Bot K(]^wirc to be operated upon ; and in a period of war the wm utald never probably 4 '.-.-. V 576 UNITED STAtU. to dimes, cents, and mills; and upwards to ea^es of 10 dollars va- lue, which is the largest gold coin. In money transactions, the terma dollars and cents only arc used, and these terms comprehend all the otiiers, except the lowest, which is seldom used at all. For example, 86 eagles, 4 dollars, 5 dimes, and 7 cents are expressed thus: dol. 864.57 ^ eight hundred and sixty-four dollars and fifty seven cents. In 1792 a law was passed to establish a mint, and the following coins were struck. Of Gold ; eagles, half-eagles, quarter-eagles. Of Silver ; dollars, half-dollars, quarter-dollars, dimes, half-dimes. Of Copper ; cents, half-cents. The gold coins consist of eleven parts of pure gold and one of al- loy; the alloy is composed of silver and copper. The silver coins consist of 1485 parts of pure silver, and 179 of copper. The weight and value of the several coins, and the proportion th^y bear to British sterling money, is exhibited in the following table; i*^*** V. Metal. Coin. Weight 1 o grains. Value la dollars dud cents Value in British Pure. Standard. sterling. Gold Bagles 2474- 270 dol. 10 00 <.2 5 Halt do 133i Vi5 5 00 1 2 6 Quarter 6li d71 2 50 11 3 Silver. Dollars 37 li 416 1 00 4 6 Half do. 1854 208 50 2 3 Quarter y24^ 104 25 1 14 Dimes 27^ 41f 10 5A Half du. 18^ 20f 5 2^ Copper Cents 108 1 - M^ Half do. 84 1 T The advantage of a currency arranged decimally over any other may be illustrated by some examples. 35 iS l\ ADDITION. SUBTRACTION. £. ». d dollars. £. s. d. dollars. 12 13 10^ = 56.41 12 13 10^ = 56.41 7 19 5^ = 35.44 7 19 5^ = 35.44 30 l^ 4i = 91.85 4 14 4| = 20.97 b« so great as to be much felt by any of the states. The advantage of having a plant* meet any contingency, always in reserve, is self-evident. As t6tbc national lands, the proceeds should, I thiii£, in terms of the secretary of the treasury's report rcfeiredto, be devoted exclusively to promote objects of national utility. doUart va- , the termi end all the r example, ssed thus: fifty seven e following rter-eagles. half-dimes. i one of al« silver coins proportion iwing table; BriUsh IDg. 6 3 6 3 li 5^ 2^ ttSc r any other )llar8. 56.41 35.44 20.97 laving 8 plan to lecntarf of the lational utUitf. UKITBO STATM. MULTiFLICATION BT 15. £. a, d, dollars. 12 13 10| = 56.41 90 = 15 577 DIVISION BY 15. £. a. d. dollars. 12 13 10A = 15)5641(3.76 20 45 243 12 3046 4 12186 15 60i)S0 12186 4)182790 12)45697 20)3808 1 28205 5641 816.15 253 12 3046 4 15)12)86(812 120 12(203 114 105 91 90 1 £0 16 11 18 15 36 92 190 8 IJ ^ It would be of great importance if weights and measures could also be arranged decimally. In such an extensive country, partaking of very different local circumstances, the manners and morals of the community must ex> hibit a great variety. Generally speaking, every state has its own peculiar features : and the subjects allude to have been noticed in the view of the various states and territories. Education and liter- ature have also been noticed ; and I may here remark, in general, that there are few of the inhabitants of the United States who can- not read and write. Knowledge has been very generally diffused by books and pamphlets, and more newspapers are circulated than in any other country in the world.* * Isaiah Thomas, esq. of Worcester, Massachusetts, has lately jlub- lished a very valuable work, entitled, The Iliatory of Printing in A- merica, from which I have extracted the following table : No. of .hpcn. Publbbed New Hampshire, 12 weekly, at Massachusetts, Rhode Island, 9 23 I Q Mo. of lmpm< «iai» of each, averageA u 1000 twice a week, 1600 weekly, 1150 twice a week, weekly. 800 800 1497600 1375400 83200 249600 Total Ainoant. 624UUO -2873000 — 382800 ' M. I i: St.. A% ' fe#i ', ■» 578 UMTEO STATB8. A great many public librurics have been cstubliitlKMl : and there arc numcrouii iiiiktitutii)n» tor the eiicouragciiicut of ncicnce and Iftcraturc. ronnucticut, 11 weekly. 1150 ' 657800 Vermont, H weikly, 800 582400 New York, 4 daily. 600 1S10400 iH twice a week, 8U0 748800 .' f 50 weekly, 8G0 2080000 4139200 Now Jpwy, 8 weekly, 8(H) S32800 Penmylvaiiiii, 9 daily, 6'2fi 1755000 !• three times, 800 l!24800 ^ ; • <-■ 9 twice a wvek. 800 249600 ^8 weekly. 800 2412800 4<)422()0 Drinware 2 twice a week, 800 16640(> Murylund 5 daily 600 936000 ' ' ,. .-.• VI .'i three times, 600 46H00O -•'.• 1 twice n week, 800 8f<200 ^»' • . . . 10 weekly, 800 416000 ..«- 1903200 l>i»liict of Cwluiubiii, 1 daily, 600 187200 ■•■"' ft ^\ftj di\fy ' a three times, 800 374400 vi«ivy eTtiSfS'^iH it 1 twice u week, 800 83200 4. 1 weekly. 800 41G00 — 686400 Virginia, ''^'-^ '<■' i three times, . 800 124800 ■ •': -I ■'. 6 twice a week, 800 499200 16 weekly, 800 665600 1289600 North Carolina," 10 weekly, 800 416000 South CaroUna, S daily. 500 468000 . '2 twice a vreek. 800 166400 ■ «©"?»■* ■ ■'■'■. 5 weekly, 800 208000 842400 Georgia,; 1 three timea. 800 124800 V ' 2 twice a week. 800 166400 . - • 10 weekly. 800 416000 707200 Keittuvky, • 17 weekly, 700 616800 Ohio, }4> weekly, 650 473200 Tennessee 6 weekly. 650 171600 Indiana Territory, 1 weekly. 300 15600 IVHssistiipi Territory . 4 weekly, 400 83200 Territory ti Orleans, 2 daily, 450 280800 4 three times. 500 312060 || ^ twice a Week, 500 104000 ■'■ 1 2 weekly, 500 52000 748800 Louisiana, 1 359 weekly, 300 15600 22222200 «e**-v--- 1^. >'-•' ; and there I'ionce and 657800 58'J400 39200 . 332800 —1903200 — 686400 --I28960O 416000 — 8424U0 — 707200 616800 473200 171600 15600 83200 - 748800 15600 22222200 ONITID ITATn. 679 The original bond of union among the states wm for mutual pro* lection and defence; but it wus vague and undefined until thu 0th By Ihb Ublt, it >ppcan tliat the numlicr of nempapvn amnuBtit «o Sil,999,300 1 and Mr. Thoms* «ay!i it may tio Tiuivf>ubliG joumaLs Hsued annually from the varii>u« preaiet are comptitcd at twenty millions iv« liundred tboufUUNl. I had tlie pleaHurc of Mating Mr. Thomas laof 'spring, when lie the fint newspaper printed in America. It Im entitled " The Bos* ton Newsleitc^ from Monday, April 17th, to Monday, April s{4th, 1704, publistiad by authority." On looking into it, the first article I mw bad reference to the land of my nativity, and I made the following extract from it in " my pocket-book." " From the London Flying Post, from December <^d to 4lh, 1 705. " Letters from Scotland bring us the copy of a sheet lately printed there, intitled, • Seasonable Alarm for Scotland, in a letter from a clergyman in (be city to his friend in the country, concerning the present danger of the kingdom, md of the prolestani religien." The letter takes notice thnt papists awarm in the nation, that th ^y traflfir ^nbre avowedly than formerly, and that of late many scores of priests and Jes dl> had come thither from France, and had gone to the highlands, and other places ii. iho country ; and the ministers of the north had given long lists of them to the committee of the general assembly, to be laid before the privy council, &c. llic state of literature in a country may be partly inferred from the qiuntity of p»* per manufiictured. Mr. Tliomas says, " from the information I have collected, it iy>« pears that the mills for manufacturing paper are as follows :— New Hampshire 7 Virginia 4 Maswichusetts 38 South Carolim t Ilhode IsUnd .■ 4 Kentucky « Connecticut •7 Tennessee 4 Vermont !) Pennsylvania about eo New York >3 In all the otlier sute* and Delaware 4 ttrri tones 16 Maryland '"■■ S _ ._ Total 185 From Dr. M!tcheir« report, the nuBiben appeared to be 190. The paper manufactured annually at these ailla is estimated as .follows: tons. For newspapers 500 For books «30 For writing 650 For wrapping 800 3580 reams. value. 5O.Q0Q dU. 150,000 70^000 84.5,000 111,000 • .973,000 100,000 85,000 931,000 dvl. 811,000 i 1 ■jj. I] 580 UNITED STATES. July, 1778, when « Articles of Confederation and Perpetual Union" were agreed upon by New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Is- land, Connecticut, NewYork, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. On the iHt March 17SI, Maryland acceded by her representatives in con- gress ; and the articles were finally ratified. These articles conti- nued ta regulate the proceedings of the general government until the year 1787, when a new constitution was ad(^ted, of which the fol- lowing are the outlines. 1st. The legislative power is vested in a congress of the United States, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. ^ ;i The members of the house of representatives arc chosen every second year by the people of the several states ; and the electors in each state must have the qualifications requisite for the electors of the most numerous branch of the state legislature. A representa- tive must be Q3 years of ngc, and have been 7 years a citizen of the United States ; and be an inliabitent of that state for which he shall be chosen. The representatives will hereafter be chosen in the se- veral states in the proportion of one for every 35,000, in which e- numeration the India:is and two-fifths of the people of colour are not included. The senate is composed of two members from each state, chosen for six years by the respective state legislatures; and the seats of one-third are vacated every two years. A senator must be SO years of age, and have been 9 years a citizen of the United States, and at the time of his election an inhabitant -of the state for which he is chosen. The vice-president of the United States is president of the senate ; but has no rote unless they are equally divided. Congress must assemble at least once every year. Their meet- ings shall be on the first Monday in December, unless they shall by law appoint a different day. No law can be passed without the concurrence of both houses. When that is obtained, it is presented to the president, who, if he approves, signs it ; if not, be returns it with his objections, for the rc-considcratioH of congre.«s, and it cannot in that case become a law without the concurrence of two-thirds of the members. The president must return it within 10 days, otherwise it becomes a law without his approbation. The congress have power — 1, To lay and collect taxes, duticp, imposts, and excises, to pay '*-/ jer" UKITSD STATES. 581 lal Union" Rl^ode l8< Delaware* ;. On the 'es in con- icles conti- nt until the ch the fol- the United u 3sen every electors in electors of rcprescnta- tizen of the ch he shall 1 in the sc* n which c- our are not ite, chosen he seats of e SO years tes, and at lich he is dejft of the leir niect- ey shall by th houses, who, if he ns, for the become a lers. The jmes a law Hes, to pay the debta^ and provide for the common defence and general welfare of the United States; but all duties, imposts and excises, shall be uniform throughout the United States. II. To borrow money on the credit of the United States. III. To regulate commerce with foreign nations, and among tlie several states, and with the Indian tribes. . , , „ : . : ., . IV. To establish an uniform rule of naturalization, and uniform laws on the subject of bankruptcies, throughout the United States. V. To coin money ; to regulate the value thereof, and of foreign coin ; and fix the standard of weights and measures. VI. To provide for the punishment of counterfeiting the se- curities and current coin of the United States. VII. To establish post-offices and post, roads. VIII. To promote the progress of science and useful arts, by securing for limited times, to authors and inventors, the exclu- sive right to their respective writings and discoveries. IX. To constitute tribunals inferior to the supreme court. X. To define and punish piracies and felonies committed on the high seas, and offences against the law of nations. XI. To declare war; grant letters of marque and reprisal; and niake rules concerning captures on land and water. XII. To raise and support armies. But no appropriation of money for that use shall be for a longer t»m than two years. XIII. To provide and maintain a navy. XIV. To make rules for the government and regulation of the land and naval forces. XV. To provide for calling forth the militia to execute the laws of the union, suppress insurrections, and repel invasions. XVI. To provide for organizing, arming, and disciplining tlif militia, and for governing such part of them as may be employed in the service of the United States; reserving to the states re- spectively the appointment of the officers, and the authority of training the militia according to the discipline prescribed by con* gresf. XVII. To exercise exclusive legislation, in all cases whbt8o> ever, over such district (not exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession of particular states, and the acceptance of congress, become the seat of government of the United States; and to ex- ercise like authority over all places purchased by the consent of the legislature of the state in which the same shall b^ for the i V, , ' \ r; m 582 "UNITED states: erection of forts, magazines, ai-senals, dock-yards, and other need- ful buildings ; and XVIII. To make all laws which shall be necessary and proper for carrying into execution the foregoing powers, and all other powers vested by this con»titutioii in the government of the United States, or any department or oflieer thereof. The migration or importation of such persons, as any of the states now existing shall think proper to admit, shall not be pro- hibited by the congress, prior to the year one thousand eight hundred and eight ; but a tax may be imposed on such importa- tion, nut exceeding ten dollars for each person. The privilege of the writ of habeas corpus shall not be suspend, ed unless when, in cases of rebellion or invasion, the public safety moy require it. No bill of attainder or ex post facto law shall be passed. No capitation or other direct tax shall be laid, unless in propor- tion to the census or enumeration herein before directed to be taken. No tax or duty shall be laid on articles exported from any state. No preference shuil be given, by any regulation of commerce or revenue, to the ports of one state, over those of another; nor shall vessels bound to or from one state, be obliged to enter, clear, or pay duties in another. No money shall be drawn from the treasury, but in consequence of appropriations made by law ; and a regular statement and ac- count of the receipts and expenditures of all public money shall be published from time to time. No title of nobility shall be granted by the United States : and no person, holding any office of profit or trust under them, shall, without the consent of congress, accept of any present, emolu- ments, office, or title, of any kind whatever, from any king, prince, or foreign state. . No state shal^ enter into any treaty, alliance, or confederation ; grant Utters of marque and reprisal; coin money; emit bills of credit ; make any thing but gold and silver coin a tender in pay- ment of debt ; pass any bill of attainder, ex post facto law, or law impairing the obligation of contracts, or grant any title of nobility. No state sliall, without the consent of congress, lay any im- posts or duties on imports or exports, except what may be abso- lutely necessary tor executing its inspection laws ; and the net produce of all duties and imposts laid by any state on imports or ... .-J ; nb-; thcr need- nd proper all other he United my of the 5t be pro- iand eight I importa- >e suspend, iblic safety sed. in propor- tobe taken. n any state, mmerce or other; nor nter, clear, onsequence it and ac- loney shall States: and lem, shall, ?nt, emol li- ng, prince, federation ; Enit bills of der in pay- aw, or law of nobility, y any im- v be abso- id the net imports or UNITED STATES* 585 exports, shall bo for the use of the treasury of the United States; and all such laws shall be subject to the revision and ooutrol of congress. No state shall, without the consent of cowgrcas, hty any duty on tonnage, keb^ troops, or ships of war, in time of peace, enter into any agreement or compact with another states or with a tbieign power, or engage in war, unless actually invad-. ed, or in such imminent danger as will not admit of delay. The executive power is vested in a president, who is elected for four years, as follows : Each state appoints, in such a manner as the legislature may direct, a number of electors e({ual to the whole number of senators and representatives, which that state- sends to congress. But no senator or representative, or person holding any oftice of trust or profit under the United States, can be an elector. The electors meet in their respective states, and vote by ballot for prcsitlcnt and vice president, one of whom, at least, shall nut be an inhabitant of the same state with themselves. The list of the votes are s«it to the sca( of government, directed to the president of the senate; who, in presence of the senate and- house of representatives, opens the certificates, and the votes are counted. The person having the greatest number of votes for president is declarctt to be elected to that office, provided he have the votes of a majority of all the electors appointed. If not, then from the persons having the greatest number of votes not exceed- ing three, the house of representatives choose the president by ballot. No person except a natural-born citizen; or a citizen of the United States at the time of the adoption of this conr^titution, shall be eligible to the ofKce of president ; and he must be 35 years of age, and have resided H years within the United State^. The president shall be commander in chief of the army and navy of the United States, and of the militia of the several states, when called into the actual service of the United States. He may re- quire the opinion, in writing, of the' principal officers in each of the executive departments, upon any subject relating to the dutiet^ of their respective offices : and he shall have power to grant re- prieves and pardons, for offences against the United States, ex- cept in cases of impeachment. He shall have power, by and widi the advice and consent of the senate, to make treaties, provided two-thirds of the senators preiient concur: and he shall nominate, and, by and with the dd- vice and consent of tlic senate, shall appoint ambassadors otlier * ^*i f*f^-»j ' i k v< ; 1 \ /, 'i\ * '' 1 584 VMTBD STATES*^ public ministers, and consuls, judges of the supreme court, and all other officers of the United States, whose appointments are not otherwise provided for, and which shall be established by law. But the congress may, by law, vest the appointment of such inferior officers as they think proper, in the president alone, in the courts of law, or in the heads of departments. The president shall have power to fill up all vacancies that may happen during the recess of the senate, by granting commissions, tvhich shall expire at the end of their neiit session. He shall, from tirac to time, give to the congress information of the state of the union ; and recommend to their consideration such measures as he shall judge necessary, and expedient. He may, on extraordinary occasions, convene both houses or either of them ; and, in case of disagreement between them, with respect to the time of adjournment, he may adjourn them to such time as he shall think proper. He shall receive ambassadors and other pul* lie ministers. He shall take care that the laws be faithfully ex- touted ; and shall commision all the officers of the United States. The judicial power of the United States shall be vested in one supreme court, and in such inferior courts as the congress* may from time to time ordain and establish. The judges, both of the supreme and inferior courts, shall hola their offices during good behaviour ; and shall, at stated times, receive for their ser- vices a compensation, which shall not be diminished during their continuance in office. The judicial power shall extend to all casies, in law and equity, arising under this constitution, the laws of the United States, and treaties made, or which shall be made under their authority ; to all cases affecting ambassadors, other public ministers, and con- suls; to all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction] to controversies to which the United States shall be a party, to con- troversies between two or more states, between a state and citizens of another state, between citizens of different states, between citi- zens of the same state claiming lands under grants of different states, and between a state, or the citizens thereof, and forei«ru states, citizens, or subjects.^ in all cases affecting ambassadors, other public ministers, and consuIf>, and those in which a state shall be a party, the supreme court shall have original jurisdiction. In all the other eases be- tbre mentioned, the j^npreme court shall have appellate jurisdic- y fm UNITED STATES. 685 ourt, and ments are lisbed by itinent of ent alone, that may ninissions, mation of Eition such c may, on of them ; cct to the mc as he ther puL- ifuUy ex- (1 States. ;ed in one res!> may , both of cs during their ser- iring their id equity, tates, and liority; to and con- :tion] to ', to con- id citizens ween citi- : different d foreign iters, and i supreme eases be- D jurisdic- tion, both ns to law and fact, with such exceptions, and under such regulations, as the congress shall make. Tile trial of all crimes, except in cases of imjieachnient, shall be by jur}', and such trial shall be held in the state where the said crimes shall have been committed ; but when not committed within any state, the trial shall be at such place or places as the congress may by law have directed. Full faith and credit shall be given in each state to the public acts, records, and judicial proceedings of every other state. And the congress may, by penal laws, prescribe the manner in which such acts, records, and proceedings shall be proved, and the effect thereof. New states may be admitted by the congress into this union : but no new state shall be formed or erected within the jurisdiction of any other state — nor any state be formed by the junction of two or more states — without the consent of the legislatures of the states concerned, as well as of the congress. " 1 ne congress shall have power to dispose of, and make all need- ful rules and regulations respecting the territory or other proper- ty belonging to the United States : and nothing in this constitu- tion shall be so construed, as to prejudice any claims of the United States, or of any particular state. The United States shall guarantee to every state in this union a republican form of government ; and shall protect each of them against invasion, and on applicati^on of the legislature, or of the executive (when the legislature cannot be convened,) against do- mestic violence. The senators and representatives before mentioned, and the members of the several state legislatures, and all executive and judicial officers, both of die United States and of the severid states, shall be bound by oath or affirmation to support this con- stitution; but no religious test shall ever be required as a qualifi- cation to any office or public trust under the United States. I cannot close the review of this important country, without expressing sentiments of adoration of the Supreme Being, and of gratitude for his bounty to man ; which is peculiarly visible in this country, whedier we view its inhabitants in their origin, their progress, or their present state; or the country as being the asM .^.tmm m^ n m^m * ■■*>«- v-rv. 588 * UNITED SI^BS* ' \ • to the Jot of a nation; so they may be distinguished for all the ble8sin«{s that knowledge, science, and an enlightened religion can bestow. .JIpM^ peculiar advantages of the inhabitants of this country have beewfTegantly described by the pen, 5f i^ distinguished writer. " Kindly separated by nature aiitl a wide ocean from the exter- minating havoc of one quarter of the globe; too high-minded to endure the degradations of the others ; possessing a chosen coun- try, with room for their descendants, to the thousandth and thou- sandth generation — entertaining a -due sense of their equal rights to the use of their own faculties — to tlie acquisitions of their industry — to honour and confidence from their fellow' citizens, resulting not from birth but good conduct — enlightened by a benign religion, professed, indeed, and' practised in various forms, yet all of them inculcating honesty, temii^ance, and the love of man :" the heart that feels these advantaged must ^iiate with joy, and heave with gratitude to the supreme Giver. * The vast quantity of fme lands to the west invites and encour« Ages an emiajjition from the east, and has a tendency to bind these two sectioiS^ogether by the indissoluble ties of kindred affection ; the manufacturing industry of the north is aided and encouraged by the surplus raw materials and demand for manufactures in the south, and both, feeling the convenience of the exchange, are bound together by the ties of mutual interest ; the progress of manufactures and of commerce has a tendency to cement the Union every where, and the genius of Washington hovers over it, ,*' indignantly frowning upon ^e first dawning of every attempt to alienate any portion of the community from the rest, or. to en- feeble the sacred ties which link together the various parts;" while the whole is under the superintendance of " an over-hiling Providence, which, by its dispensations, proves that it delights in the happiness of man here, and in his greater happiness hereafter." POSTSCRIPT. It is now upwards of two years since these travels issued from the .press, and every circumstance relative . to the geography of the coun- try, that has come under the author's observation, has tended to strengthen his opinion, us to the rising greatness of the Western world; and particularly of that important section of it, where he hiis fixed liis . / y Onited statejIJ 589 >r all the igion can ntry have writer, he exter- linded to en coun- nd thou- rights to industry resultine religion, of them he heart >ve with encour> nd these Fcction ; onraged in the ige, arc ^ress of ent the over it, attempt to en- parts j'* -ruling ghts in ;after.'» m the coun- led to nrorld; ed his residence, The United ^tea. They have not only maintained a struggle, sinde handed, against .the greatest military power in the world ; but tiiey have in many hard-fought contests earned a nevur- dying renown in arms, the best pledge of security from foreign aggrcs« sron, and the hest passport to national respect. During tlic contest, too, the progress uf society has hardly been in a single instance arrest- ed. Agriculture, manufactures, and the arts, have moved on with uninterrupted sway, and many valuable brunclios have, indeed, been accelerated by the war. The author, having devoted his whole time to the geography of the country, has had an opportunity of noticing all the leading facts rcia* tive to the progress of society as they occurred, and the d.evelopement of a few circumstances will not be judged misplaced, to illustrate a subject become habitually dear to him — the rapid carker of tub COUNTRY TO UNPARALLELED GREATNESS. A careful perusal of the foregoing pages of this volume will show, in a particular manner, the extent and importance of the country be- yond the mountains : but at the time it was published, the author had no adeouate conception of the extent of that portion of the country which lies beyond the Mississippi, nor of the unparalleled magnitude of that river and its branches. Facts recently promulgated have enabled him to construct a new and interesting map of the c >untry, which shows the extremities of the whole waters flowing into the Mississippi, of which the view was to him perfectly astonishing ; and a short ac- count of it will probably be gratifying to the reader. The eastern extremity of this immense river, is the Allegany river, which rises in Pennsylvania, 180 miles from Philadclphiu, in long. 0" 50' west from Washington. The western extremity is a branch of the Missouri, in west long. 3.0* 15', within 450 miles of the Pacific Ocean. The distance between these two extremities, in a direct line, is 1680 miles. The northern extremity is a branch of the Missouri, in 50" 4*2' north latitude, 550 miles west by north of the Lake of the Woods. ' The southern extremity is the south pass into the Gulf of Mexico, in north lat. 29° 0' ; 90 miles in a direct line below New Orleans. The distance between these two extremities, in a direct line, u 1650 miles. The river and its branches spread over nearly 1,346,289 square miles, viz. Missouriterritory,thewhole,985250 North Carolina, rs^h, I ] 10 North-West territory, 7^, 53+15 South Carolina, rfsth, 152 Illinois territory, the wliole, 52(X)0 Georgia, -j^th, 2000 Indiana Territory, 4|ths, 37050 Kentucky, the whole, 40110 35088 Tennessee, the whole, 43200 1 G49 3 Missouri territory, -fd, SlitiO 521 Louisiana, |, 20500 1 10 23200 Square miles, 1340281) Bein^ 861,624,960 acres! capable |of supporting 500 millions of hu- man bemgs ! ! The whole territory of the United States is 1205,635,840 acres, of which the Mississippi waters nearly f ths ! Ohio, I'ths, Pennsylvania, -fd, New York, -rl^th, Maryland, T^^th, Virginia, f-ths. .?♦ 1 1 , ^1 i 4 H n ii i\ M i ' 4 '• *«•*•»**• 690 VNITIO 8T4TM. The country watered by the MitsiMippi is 28 times larger than all England. It is ] 1 times larger than Great Britain and Ireland. It is 172 times larger than Massachusetts. It is 40 times as large as the whole New £ngland states, exclusive of Maine. It is 20 times as large as the whole New England atates, including Maine. What a field for contemplation ! Every lover of the human race, who takes delight in their progessive improvement, must rejoice in the review of this country, containing room for their multiplif iog and needy offspring, to a period remote beyond our utmost calculations; and will pronounce a blessing upon the beads of those patriots, who matured a system for its settlement, calculated, by making every man a freeholder, t« baffle all the petty effurts of tyrant man to shackle his fellows in tliis quarter of the slube. While the citizens of the United States have cause to rejoice in the extent of their country, and the achievements of its brave defenders ; they have also the satisfaction to know that it has rapidiv increased in population and national wealth, even during the war. The census of the state of New York, just published, proves incontestibly this fact j the result of which, with a tew observations, shall close the subiect. CENSUS OF NEW. YORK. COtrHTUS. TOrULATION. Albany 33885 Allegany 3833 Broome(Owego not returned)8482 Cayuga 37318 Chatauque 4259 Chenanso, (Eastern, Green, and Pharsalia not ret.) 20219 Clinton 7764 Columbia 33979 Cortland 10993 Delaware, (Franklin notr.) 19239 Duchess 43707 Essex, (Jay and Scroon not returned) 7807 Franklin Si68 Genessee 23973 Greene 202()0 Herkimer 20837 Jefferson 18564 Kings . T^55 Lewis ^ 6843 Madison 2827(i Montgomery 40030 New York 95519 Niagara (not returned.) Oneida, (Florence not ret)44833 COUKTIU. Onondago Ontario Orange •Otsego *Putnam Queens^i Rensselaer Richmond Rockland Saratoga Schenectady Schoharie Seneca St. -Lawrence, (Oswegat< chie, Rossie.and Russell, not returned) Steuben Suffolk Sullivan Tioga Ulster ♦Warren Washington West Chester rofVJMtias. 308U1 56892 3 1 284 40587 0353 19269 36833 5502 7817 31139 10896 18323 21401 7095 1U21 21368 6233 1043S 26328 7838 30359 26367 1,014,633 The vhich t was 139 ed tob Bye work, have be that thr- 4)iately ket's ~ * These counties have been laid out since 1610. .-( A # •':fi,y-,ff^^r ■-. ■*'*^W>ii3E ia U)U UNITBD STATIS. The aggregate population, in 1810, of the county and toimaroiiiT which the returns have not been received (except Eastoo and Rot^re) was IS945 ; so that tlie total population of the state may be consider' ed to be about one million and thirty thousand souls. By contrasting this, with the census of 1810, in page A60 of thia work, it will be seen, that in the course of 4> years HO,78() inhabitanta have been added to the state of New York ; and it is a singular fact, that the increase has been greiTtest in soma of those coui ties imme- 4iiately bordering on the seat of war. Jeftrson, which includes Sac- kat's Harbour, nas increased 34S4. Chatau^ue, on Lake Erie, has increased 1878 ; and Genessee, on Lake Ontario, has increased 11,385; being nearly double its population in 1 8 10. A country possessing faculties like this it invulnerable, and its liber* ties fixed on a rock, not to be overturned by humsn power. The ra- ptd growth of society, under such circumstances, is certain ; and an attempt to repress it would be equally futile with an attempt to repress the waves of the ocean. 308U1 50892 3l28i 40587 0353 19269 S6833 5502 7817 31139 10896 18323 21401 im TABLE OF DlSTANCl:^, ^C, Tabic qf tlistanccSf Stale of the IVealhrtf and RepciiccSf in a Jttiiniri/ throu>th the Western Conutty. Date. Date. Situation. 0' 1811 Aug. 7:New York SBordenton o' Philadelphia loElizabeihtown 1 1 Chambenburg^ lUM'Connelitown 13j Bedford 14Somenet 1 i Greentburg IC Pittiburg 17 18 19 20 *2i Harmon J 32| 2SI Pittsburg 24 Ohio river 25,CJeorgetown SGJSteubenviile S7|Wheeling i^BOliio river '^!){ Do. .10 Marietta SI epr. 1 i.'!ohio river 3i ro. •),Le:art'i falls 5 Gklliopolis (( Ohio river. 7 « 10 1] IS 13 Do. Alexandria Manchester Ohio river Cincinnati Thermo. 70 SI Rl(>6 30 63 % 80 Wind at Noon. &W. 7SN.W. 70 71 Calm . 84 76 N' 7463N.W. 7066W. 79698. W. 787«S. 79 76 Do. »0J4 Do. 91 84 Calm. 9lj8sDo. 91,82 Do. 82,72 Do. 76.76 N. W. 72 64 Do. 80'64 Do. 76*66 Calm 80*63 N. £. 84l70Calm 82'70 Do. 8663 S. 74|66 N. W. 84*68 Do. 84]72£. 84 70 Do. 70,S W. 74 Do. 66W. ^2 Do. 60|Do. b'5;N. E. tt4N. 65N.W. 80 85 78 72 Do. W. Do. Atmo«> phert at Noon. £ip«ncei. Itemi. D.C. Cloudy Clear Cloudy Foggy Clcaf Do. Do. Do. Cloudy Do. Clear Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Cloudy Clear Do. Da Do. Do. I Cloudy Ishower jCloudy iDo. Clear [cloudy iDo. |Do. Clear Do. Cloudy Do. Do. Rain Cloudy Do. Far* to PhiladcU Shia by itcam-boat oard, &c. | Fare to Pittiburg Luggage Board, &c. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. > See the 23d Hone hire Bill at Harmony Expencet by way Bill at Pittsburg Charge* to Ma< rietta Bill at Marietta Charge* to Cin- cinnati \ Bill Cincinnati 450 349 'sol 850 156 153 1 1 S .87 157 3 3B9 124 8 6 74 SI 694 250 7535] i^i-' •.' '""^f^^fh^' ^ 'Si in a cei. D.C. ladcU hboat 4 .50 I 3« sol 8 TO 153 1 1 urg 6 9 7 37 my way «•« Ma. etta Cin- 157 3 3B8 24 6 174 (31 694 lati 250 7535 TABLI OV DISTAMCES, ^C. 593 Thermo Eipenee*. " Date. Skuaiion. Wind at Atmo> •phcrt i a __ • 1 1 • * t a ? Noon. 1 J. . . ( 5 i £ 1 1811. Forward 9tS Forward 75\ii\ ScpM4 Ohio river 9 45 70 5fl W. Clear n • 15 \C, 17 Do. Do. Wert Port 1346 3369 8062 76 HI T7 69 76 68 Do. Do. Ckmdy Clear Do. fCharget to Loo. > iiville 6 IH Ohio Rirer ^ifiS 77 68 S. W. Cloudy 1 19 Louieville 4268 78 72 Calm Do. j Siabliog* .Shoeing jBillatLouiiville 90 21 39 60 62 72 71 7i «4 eo 60 Do. N. E. E. Rain Cloudy Do. 9 5 50 , ^* 56 33 Shelbyriile 32 «0 78 68 Do. Clear Board 1 94 Frankfort 1968 79 78 S.W. Cloudy Do. 9 69 95 Ltiingtoa 9674 73 64 N.W. R«in 1 96 69 68 69 N. E. Clear / 27 61 68 631s. E. Do. VBill Lexlnston 9 8V 9ft 60 6460E. Cloudy 1 99 50 5853N. Clear J 30 Pari* 2246 fi446W. Do. Board, &c. 9 Oct. 1 BlueJLick 21I44 76«ds. E. Do. Do. 12 2 Waehiiigton 2056 78 60S. Do. Do. W 3 West Union 2155 1 «056Do. Do. i Ferry Ohio Board, &c. 1 25 , 4 Bainbridge 3848 76 54 Do. 7ffi54Do. Do. Do. 75 • ■ . 5 Chillicothe 19>2t Do. Do. 1 50 (i J46 7055N. E, Do. Do. 9 75 ■ 7 New Lancaiter 34 54 7658S. Cloudy Toll 6 Board, &c. 1 5. Clear Board, &c. •>0 3S^ Grand river 30 02 64 47 S. E. Do. Do. 1 ;57 Q9 Athtabula river 30 45 4f< 33 N. W. Cloudy Do. 1 -,4 1667 i ! loT 1 > • Here I purchased a hone for '23 dollars ; but as it was afterwards sold about the same price, ic is not included in the account. f Here 1 broke my thermometer, and could not procure another ; in conscqnenre of which I was obliged to judge ol the weather by my ft-tliiig* ; but 1 prc.uiiK- tin- account was ui^arlv correct. Ifl :f; ^1*' '.•■i^- ..^..^»m "rr "-^-^fld**- 594 TABLE OP DISTANCES, ^C. .'^iiKJi' Thermo Ezpencest "i . AtRlO* I Date. Situatian. a 3 1 Of I 9 Wind at noon sphere at Noon. Items. D. 13T C. 13 1811.1 Forward 1667 Forward! Oct. 24 25 Erie 46 3.3 35 36 34 34 N.E. Do. Clear Do. \ Bill Erie 1 68 26 Perry's 30 26 46 31 Do. 1 Do. Board, &c. 1 45 27 Cataragus 31 30 56 56 S. Do. Da 1 5« 28 Buffalo 31 56 68 58 S.W. Do. Da Ferry I 62 50 29 Cliippaway ■ ■ ' ■ ; 22 iJ7 46 5b SX Haity Board, &c. Guide to Falls Whisky Ferry 1 1 £0 50 25 31 30 Lewiitown 9 55 6952] s.w; Clear ; Furt Niagara 6 \ Bill Lewistown 3 50 Si Lcwistown 6 58 58 481 E. Cloudy S Nov. 1 Schlosser 9 48 56]36 S.W. Do. Board, &c. 1 37 2 West. Turnpike 27 31 47|35 Do. Do. Do. 1 25 S Batavia 21 345037 N. Do. Da 1 81 4 Avon 31 285656 S.E. Clear Do. 1 5 5 6 Canandaigua 18 4554 36 4658'38 Calm : N.E. 1 Cloudy Do. jBoy 19 7 West. Turnpike 104«l58;S5 E. Do. Board, &c. 1 8 Geneva 6 4860,55 1 23S5'B246 S. Do. Do. Horse shoe i 5 31 9 Auburn w. Do. Board, &c. 1 62 1 Tolls 16 10 Manlius Square 333114845 N.W. 3howr. Board, &c Horse shoe 1 46 31 11 West. Turnpike 29,57 48*5 N.E. Cloudy Board and tolls 72 12 13 Utica 11 36 3836 373836 Do. Do. Da Do. X Bill Utica r 1 1 Horse xhoes 14 Herkimer 15 343453 N.W. Da Board and tolls Horse shoe 172 |2S 15 Nose 3*5 30 n2 35 Do. dear Board, &c. 12s irtUroadalbin 18^28 32 36 N.E. Cloudy Da h 17Bi)Il8ton 20|4.';,4«36 S,W. Do. Da 84 18,VVaterford 183236 36 N.W. Clear Do. 125 19 Albany 20 11323534 all 36 37 Do. Do. ' Do. Snow J Bill Albany r'57 1 21 Hudson river 903536 42 Do. Cloudy Farsage for hors*; > including hay anc ''■' ■ oats 5.50| 22.New York 7047 50*46 Do. Clear Passage by steam- 1 boat * ----. 2341 — H |I89:S6 ^a«.»r-. 137 1 1 1 I 1 1 13 68 45 5« 62 50 SO 50 25 31 50 37 25 81 3 19 5 31 62 16 46 31 72 381 »l 172 |25 125 r37 5*0 189*36 i TABLE OF DISTAS'CESy 8CC. Tlicse travels altogether comprehend a range of 21,810 miles, viz. In Scotland 980 England Ireland 320 Atlantic Ocean Upper Canada , 30 United Stat(.>t(.i,:i.l Of the Cauie of Yellotv Fever; and the means of prevent ino U in places not yet infected tvith it: addressed to the Board of Health in America. Z?y Thomas Paink. A GREAT deal has been wVitten respecting the yellow fever. First, with respect to its causes, whether domestic or imported. Secondly* on the mode of treating it. What I am going to suggest in this essay is,_ to ascertain some point to begin at, in order to arrive at the ca^e^ and for this purpose some preliminary observations are necessarvl (' The yellow fever always begins inthe lowest part of a populous mer- cantile town, near the water, and continues there, without aflecting the higher parts. The sphere, or circuit it acts in, is £Diall, and it rages most where large quantities of new ground have been made, by banking out of the river, for the purpose of making wharves. The ap- pearance and prevalence of the yellow fever in these places, being those where vessels arrive from the West Indies, has caused the belief, that the yellow fever was imported from thence. But here are two cases acting in the same place : the one, the condition of the ground at the wharves, which, being new made on the muddy and filthy bot- tom of the river, is difTercnt from the natural condition of the ground in the higher parts of the city, and consequently subject to produce a different kind of e^uvia or vapour ; the other case is the arrival of vessels from the West Indies. In the state of Jersey, neither of these cases has taken place; no shipping arrive there, and consequently there has been no embankment for the purpose of wharves, and the yellow fever has never broke out in Jersty. This, however, does not decide the point, as to the imme- diate cause of the fever ; but it shows that this species of fever is not common to the country in its natural state ; and I believe the same w^ the case in the West Indies, before embankments began, for the pur- pose of making wharves ; which always alter the natural condition of the ground. No old history, that 1 know of, mentions such a disorder as tlie yellow fever. ^ A person seized vvith the yellow fever in an affected part of the town, and brought into the healthy part, or into the country and among heal- thy persons, does not con^municntii it to the neighbourhood, or to those immediately around him. W'j then are we to suppose it can be brought from the W^est Ituiier., a distance of more than a thousand miles, since we see it cannot bo canied from one town to another, nor from one part of a town to anoti.cr, at home? Is it in the air? This ques- tion on the case requires a minute examination. In the first place, the difference between air and wind is the same as between u stream of water, and a standing water. A stream of water is water in motion, end wind is air in motion. In a gentle breeze, the whole body of air, IS lav the breeze extencs, moves at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour; in a high wind, at the late of seventy, eighty, or a hundred miU'6 an hour. When wc sec the shadow of a cloud glidintj on the even over will, be f > ^^^^' . ':^C!;^>* i in places Americu. ;r. First, Secondly, onie point pose some ilous mer- t aH'c'cting ill, and it made, by The ap- :e8, being the belief, ! are two lie ground [ilthy bot- be ground > produce arrival of place; nu )ankment roke out le iinme- er is not same w^ the pur- dition of disorder the town, ong hcal- to those it can be nd miles, nor from lis qucs- ace, the tream of motion, (3y of air, miles an hundred )g on tho ,. -' r ESSAY ON YELLOW FEVEH. SSff surfiice of the ground, we see the rate at which the air moves, and it . must be a good trotting hone that, can keep pace with the sliadow, even in a gentle breeze ; consequently, a bouy of uir that is in and ■ over any place of the same extent at the affected part of a city may be, will, in the space of an hour, even at the moderate rate I speak of, ■ ' be moved seven or eight miles to leeward, and its place, in and over the city, will be supplied by a new body of air comipg from a healthy part seven or eignt miles distant the contrary way, and so on in continual succession. The disorder, therefore, is not in the air considered in its natural state, and never stationary — This leads to another consideration of the case. An impure effluvia, arising from some cause in the ground, in the manner that fermenting liquors produce an effluvia near its surface that is fatal to life, will become mixed with the air contiguous to it, and as fast as that body of air moves off, it will impregnate every succeeding body of air, hoTVtiver pure it may be, when it arrives at the place. The result from this state of the case is, that the impure air or va- pour that generates the yellow fe'^er, issues from the earth, that in, from the new made earth, or ground, raised on the muddy and filthy bottom of the river, which impregnates every fresh body oi air that comes over the place, in like manner as air becomes heated when it approaches or passes over the fire, or becomes offensive in smell when it approaches or passes over a body of corrupt ve»^;^ w '■ "■- M' 59S ■■' APPENDIX, NO. I. Humphries was sick,) and three or four soldiers with poles, were nut on board the scow. General Washington placed himself at one ena of the scow, and I at the other. Each of us had a roll of cartridge pa- per, which we lighted and held over the water, about two or three inches from the surface, when the soldiers began disturbing the bottom of the river with poles. As general Washington fat at one end of the scow, and I at the other, I could see better any thing that might happen from his light, than I could from my own, over which I was nearly perpendicular. When the mud at the bottom was disturbed by the poles, the air-bub- bles rose fast, and I savr the fire take from general Washington's light, and descend from thence to the surface of the water, in a similar man- ner as, when a lighted candle is held so as to touch the smoke of a can- dle just blown out, the smoke will take fire, and the fire will descend and light up the candle. This was demonstrative evidence, that what was called setting the river on fire, was setting the inflammable air on fire that arose out of the mud. I mentioned this experiment to Mr. Rittenhouse, of Philadelphia, the next time I went to that city ; and our opinion on the case was, that the air or vapour that issued from any combustible matter (vegetable or otherwise) that underwent a dissolution and decomposition of its parts, either by fire or water, in a confined place, so as not to blaze, would be inflammable, and would become flame whenever it came in contact with flame. In order to determine if this was the case, we filled up the breech of a gun barrel about five or six inches with saw-dust, and the upper part with dry sand to the top, and, aAer spiking up the touch-hole, put the breech into a smith s furnace, and kept it red hot, so as to consume the saw-dust ; the sand, of consequence, would prevent any blaze. We appplied a lighted candle to the mouth of the barrel ; as the first vapour that flew oif would be humid, it extinguished the can- dle; but, after applying the candle three or four times, the vapour that issued out began to flash. -We then tied a bladder over the mouth of the barrel, which the vapour soon filled, and then, tying a string round the neck of the bladder, above the muzzle, took the bladder off. As we could not conveniently make experiments upon the vapour . while it was in the bladder, the next operation was, to get it into a phial ; for this purpose, we took a phial of about three or four ounces> filled it with water, put a cork slightly into it, and, introducing it into tlie neck of the bladder, worked the cork out, by getting hold of it through the bladder, into which the water then emptied itself, and the air in the bladder ascended into the phial ; we then put the cork into the phial, and took it from the bladuer. It was now in a convenient condition for experiment. We put a lighted match into the phial, and the air or vapour in it blazed up in the manner of a chimney on fire. We extinguished it twoi or three times, by stopping the mouth of the phial; and putting the lighted match to it again, it repeatedly took fire, till the vapour was spent, and the phial became filled with the atmospheric air. These two experiments — that, in which some combustible substance (branches and leaves of trees) had been decomposed by water, in the mud, and this, where the decomposition had been produced by fire, without blazing, show, that a species of air injurious to life, wheu were ;^t)i: .-■«,„.. ESSAY ON YELtOW FEVER. 599 5> were put ■ one ena of trtridge pa- vo or Uir«e urbiug the ind ' at tlia 1 his light, pendicular. he uir-bub- (tun's light, milar man- e of a can< ill descend that what able air on liladelphia, e was, that (vegetable ition of its t to blaze, it came in the breech the upper :oiich-ho]e> »t, so as to event any barrel ; as ;d the can* lie vapour the mouth ig a string •ladder off. the vapour !t it into a ur ounces, ing it into hold of it f, and the cork into ;onvenient ipour in it [led It twa itting the apour was substance cr, in the d by fire, ifc; wheu taken into the lungs, may be generated from substances which in themselves are harmless. It is by means similar to these, that charcoal, which is made by fire without blazing, emits a vapour destructive to life. I now come to apply these cases, and the reasoning deduced therefrom, to account for the cause of the yellow fever.* First, The yellow fever is not a disorder produced by the climate naturally, or it would always have bpen here in the hot months. The climate is the same now as it was fifty or a hundred years ago. There was no yellow fever then ; and it is only within the last twelve years that such a disorder has been known in America. . Secondly, The low grounds on the shores of the rivers, at the cities, where the yellow fever is annually generated, and continues about :i months without spreading, were not subject to that disorder in tlieir natural state, or the Indians would have forsaken them ; whereas, tl>ey were the parts most frequented by the Indians - in all (seasons of tiie year, on account of fishing. The result from these cases is, that the yellow fever is produced by some new circumstance not common to the country in its natural state ; and the question is, what is that new circumstance ? ii*v It may be said that every thing done by the white people, since their settlement in the country, such as building towns, clearing lands, level- ling hills, and filling up valleys, is a new circumstance ; but the yellow fever does not accompany any of these new circumstances. No alter* ation made on the dry land produces the yellow fever : we must, there- fore, look to some other new circumstances ; and we come now to those that have taken place between wet and dry, between land and water. The shores of the rivers at New York, and also at Philadelphia, have, on account of the vast increase of commerce, and for the sake of mak- ing wharves, undergone great and rapid alterations from their natural state, within a few years ; and it is only in such parts of the shores, where those alterations have taken place, that the yellow fever has been produced. The parts where little or no alteration has been made, either on the East or North River, and which continue in their natural state, or nearly so, do not produce the yellow fever. The fact, there* fore, points to the cause. Besides several new streets gained from the river by embankment, there arc upwards of eighty new wharves made since tlie war, and tlie much greater part within the last ten or tweWe years ; the consequence of which has been, that great quantities of filth, or combustible mat- ter, deposited in the muddy bottom of the river contiguous to the shore, and which produced no ill effect while exposed to the air, and wa^ihed twice every twenty-four hours by the tide water, have been covered! over several feet deep with new earth, and pent up, and the tide excluded. It is in these places, and in these only, that the yel- low fever is produced. Having thus shown, from the circumstances of the case, that the cause of the yellow fever is in the place where it -makes its appear- ance, or rather in the pernicious vapour issuing therefrom, I go on to * Tlie author does not mean to infer, that the inflammablti air> or carburetted bydrfl^ gen gas, is ttie cause of the yellow fever ; but tliat perhaps it enters into some.^^^ ^ 1 btuati(in with ihiasai generate J iji low grounds, wbidt produces the di^wa^. I -^.t> -m ~>Si.- ■if th« sauM af ttutk and juttica. 76 \*j^-i MM 60^ APVBVrOIX, KO. 11. ^ 6ther people inA |OT^rnment in man^r particulart ; and b#eauae a re- tievr of some of them is nectsaary to illustrate my subject, I shall, as briefly as possible, notice a few of the most important. 1st. The laws place all the citizens on a footing of perfect equality. There are no laws of entail, or of primogeniture, to divide the people; And henfce the mass of them are hardy, independent republicans, cul- tivators of the soil they jnissess. Few are so rich as to be above the necessity of labour, and few are so poor as to be in a state of depend« ence; fewer still live on charity. I resided in the country twelve months, and travelled through twelve of the states, comprehending a tange of 1S(X) miles, and in all that time I never saw a beggar but pne ; he was from this country, and it turned oat, in the sequel, that he was an impostor, and not really in want. 2d. Public education is cherished by the people and government. It will no doubt give you pleasure, that I dwell on this article. It is ne< cessary, for the illustration of the subject, to notice the subdivision of the country. Each state is divided into counties, and many of these are subdivided into townships of six miles square, being a division somewhat similar to eur parishes. In the charters of incorporation of these townships, provision is generally made for the instruction of youth, by appropriations of land and other funds, and the schools are inostly all free Besides this, there are numerous colleges, academies, and piiblic libraries, supported partly by the states, and partly by in- dividuals ; and these seminaries are rapidly increasing. I shall further illustrate the subject by taking the states in their order. [Here followed an account of the state of education throughout the country ; but as this has been inserted in the foregoing work, it is here omitted.3 I have dwelt long upon this subject, because I judge it of great im- portance, and because it is very generally believed, that, in point of fedueation, the Americans are far behind the Brit'sh. The case is quite the reverse, — they are far before them, — I mean the naass of the people. I did not meet with a single native American, above 12 years of age, who could not both read and write, and they are in general a very intelligent people. With politics they are well acqaainted, and there are more newspapers read in America, in pro- portion to the ini abitants, than in any country in, the world. 1- shall confirm this statement by an extract from Morse's American Geography article New England. " In New England, learning is more, gererally diffused among all ranks than in any other part of the globe ; arising from the excellent establishment of schools in almost every township and other smaller districts. In these schoolf!, which are generally supported by a public tax, and under the direction of a school committee, are taught the elements of reading, writing, and arithmetic ; and in the more wealthy townships, tliey are beginning to introduce the higher branches, viz. grammar, geography, &c. A very valuable source of information to the people, is the newspapers, of which not less than 30,0(X) are printed every week in New England, and they circulate m almost every town and village in the country." lb a note he adds — :'* According to an accurate estinate made 10 yean ago, it appears ti at no less than 79,000 newspapers were printed week- ly in the American states, which in a year would amount to 4 mil* lians."—* There is good reason to believe that th« number has since .^v '"'h^i^fj LETTER TO A MEMBSB OF rARLIAMEKT. «05 t, I thall, M Pect equality. i the people; iblicans, cul- be above the ; of depend* untry tweWe irehending a I beggar but sequel, that ernment. It le. It is ne« ) subdivision lany of these ig a division >rporation of istruction of ; schools are I, academies, lartlv by in- shall further I throughout ng work, it is of great im- ;, in point of em, — I mean 'e American, te, and they ;hey are well irica, in pro- Kid. e's American learning is !r part of the Is in almost hooli!, which irection of a writing, and re beginning phy, &c. A newspapers, few En[f;land, the country." lade 10 years trinted week- )untto4oiil* >er hasflffice •early doubled He goes on — " A person of mature age wlio cannot both read and write is rarely to be found. By means of the general es- tablishment of schools, the extensive circulation of newspapers, and tha consequent spread of learning, every township throufthout the country is furnished with men capable of conducting the atfuirs of their towa with judement and discretion. These men are the channels of political information to the lower class of tlie people ; if such a class may be •aid to exist in New England, where every man thinks himself as good as his neighbour, and believes that all mankind ought to possess equal rights." ad. In religious matters there is neither toleration nor intolerntion ; but universal right of conscience. The constitution of the United Statea provides equally against forming any religious e8tai>lishment, and against any interference with the free exercise of religion. " Ileliginn is there placed on its proper basis, without the unwarrantable aid of the civil power, supported alone by its own evidence, by the lives of its profes- Mors, and by the Almighty care of its divine Author;" and every man may freely exercise his religious opinions, be tlicy what they may, with* out at all interfering with his rights as a citizen. ith. The go/emment of the country is in the hands of the people. America is what is called a Federal Republic. Each state ha« a legis* lative and executive government to manage its internal concerns ; and all the states, joined together for mutual convenience and security, form the general or federal government. It consists of the house of re> presentativesf senate, and the president, — elected by the people ; aiid to them certain powers are delegated by the several states : among o« thers, the formation and regulation of all foreign relations. The federal revenue consists at present principally of a tax on imports. From hence it will obviously appear that the United St- notice all the grounds of complaint; I shall, therefore, select one instance, singular m its nature, and extremely offensive in its ope- ration. In the vi^ar alluded to, several of our ships of war were station- ed in the mouth of the Mississippi, to intercept the Spanish vessels in the navigation of ttiat river, to the great annoyance of the trade of New Orleans ; while these very ships of war had special orders to allow Spa- nish vessels to pass and repass freely to and from our own West India islands. Thi», among other circumstances, led to the non-importation act. A short time after, a naval force was stationed off the entrance to New York harbour, and intercepted every thing that came in their way. But their conduct was peculiarly offensive in firing upon coasting Ves- sels ; and at length the death of Pierce, who was killed by a shot from the LeandoTj lighted up a flame throughout the whole continent. This wanton act of aggrestiion has been palliated and frittered away by writers on this side of the water ; but having examined into ail the circumstan- ces of the case, i Itave no hesitation m saying that had a similar circum- stance occurred to one of our vessels, upon our own shores, ample re- paration must have been made, or war would have been the inevitable consequence. V^ Fortunately, Mr. Pitt was by this time off the stage, and the Ameri- cans had a rational and pacific administration to deal with ; who, I have no doubt, would have healed the breach long before this time, had they remained in power. I know, to a certainty, that the American govern- ment had confidence in them ; for in a conversation which I had with the president, in October, 1806, he expressed himself to that effect ; and he observed, in particular, that Mr. Fox was a man of the most liberal and enlightened policy — a friend to his country, and to the human race. But in an evil hour for Britain, and for the world, the present ministry got into power by avowedly trampling upon the religious rights of man. They are said to be energetic, and they have certainly " exerted their' energies" with a vengeance. They have quarrelled with nearly all Eu- rope ; and, net content with that, they seem fully determined, by the folly of their measures, to force America into a quarrel also. I pass o- ▼er the foul acton the Chesapeak, because it appears to have been un- authorized, and might, taken singly, have been easily adjusted. But the late orders in council appear to me to be the most impolitic measure that ever this or any other government adopted towards a neutral and friendly power. America cannot possibly act upon the principle which these orders recognize without surrendering her independence asa nation, fnd violating her neutrality ; in which case it is very obvious she would ' ilniBe4iately have a quarrel with France and her dependencies ; and that •ili%iU4i^e care to avoid. Indeed, I have little doubt but on6 grant 'fr, 'j f Htf. nations sf the other powers to do as they e treatment in >m afraid that mple but sub' B been of long consequence would be te- ^refore, select ive in its ope- ' were station, ish vessels in trade of New to allow Spa- n West India i-importation e entrance to in their way. coasting Ves- y a shot from tiuent. This ay by writers i circunistan- nilar circum- es, ample re- )e inevitable i the Ameri- who, I have ine» had they icah govern- I had with \, ei£ect ; and most liberal human race, lent ministry ghts of man. lerted their arlv all £u- ned, by the • I pass o- ve been un* d. But the :ic measure neutral and ciple which ! as a nation, i she would 8 ; and that konegre«t LXTTXR TO A MIMBBR OF VAKLIAMIHT. •OS reason for passing those hateful orders was to bring the qoesUon to that very issue — to force America into a war with France. Still, however, I do not dread an immediate war with America. The ministry, impolitic as I esteem them, do not appear to have formed anpr hostile design against that country ; but much evil may result from their domineering bullving spirit before matters are adjusted : and as they appear to be totally ignorant of the American character, there is no say- ing how far they may carry their *' vigorous measures" if the Americana stand firm ; and this they assuredly will. From what I know of the A- meri an character, I am confident they never will submit to the restric- tions we have been imposing upon their trade for years : and in particu- lar, they never will submit to these orders in council. What! allow their ships to be forced into this country, searched, taxed, and licenced, be- fore they proceed to France or her dependencies ! They are truly bold politicians who have dared to suppose they would. It hM been alleged that the French government have forced us to adopt these measures by their blockading decrees ; but those who make the allegation complete- ly overlook the policy of France towards America : for no sooner were these blockading decrees issued than the French government avow^ in the most distinct terms that tiiey had no reference whatever to the trade between America and Britain ; and that the existing treaty be- tween France and America should have full eflfect. They not only con- tinued to act upon this principle up to the date of our orders in council* but they gave orders to Spain to release certain Americaiwvessels which were earned into that country in virtue of similar decrees, alleging that the Spanish government had misconceived their meaning. If further proof be wanted, it is only necessary to look at the rate ofinsurance on American and British vessels for twelve months back. But whatever the French government intended to do before, it is very certain they will resort to most " vigmious measures" now ; for they have already passed decrees not only tM^t aside the effectof our ordera in council, but they proceed a step fartiier, and declare that if American vessels even suffer themselves to be searched by our ships of war, a mea- sure which they cannot help, they will be denationalized, and liable to confiscation : so that between the two contending nations, the Ameri- can trade is brought into a more awkwant situation than has ever been endured by any neutral power. Our orders in council are the primary cause ; and the remaining inquiry is : What is likely to be the conse- quence ? Will the present ministry i-evoke them ? No : they have vaunted so much about their energetic measures that it would be folly to expect it. Will the American government submit to them? No: the independent spirit of the country forbids it. Will France and her depentlencies acquiesce in them ? No : Bonaparte does not possess a spirit sufficiently accommodating to warrant us in thinking tney wiiL The most probable conjecture, therefore, is that America will suspend her trade with Europe, throw herself upon the defensive, and in that posture remain till the fighting folks of Europe come to their soinses. When that will be, God knows ^ but I am much afraid it will not be while the present administration remain in power. I attribute the ac- cumulated distress which is pressing upon my country to the false polii^ which has been acted upon for many years past; and I am firmly per* suaded that we shall never enjoy repose nor prosperity till her doundlt arc swayed by men " vrhe will do to otberi u they would bt deMl9«* ] i- I H Jk s I (f ^' fr LT- . , I f Tbig, it k nrf 4rra belief, the present miniitrjr never wiH 4o ; and, ttiere« fore, I aincerely hope that God, in mercy to'unankind, will be pleased t* remove tbeoi abon, and that he will tubititJte in their place men of up" rigbtneM aad integrity, who fear God and hate covetouinew. 1 am, Ac. Januartf, 135, 1808. J. M. P. S, Jan- 27. — Since the foregoing letter was written, advice haa been received, that what I anticipated has partly taken place. An eia> bargo has been laid in America, and it is easy to see the disastrous con> leauences which must be the result. However, some of our energetic politicians here are talking ver^ big about reducing theYankeea to obe- dience. No doubt, they anticipate that glorious sport will result from an American war; and, to gratify them, perhaps their masters may car- ry matters to that extremity. If they do, I have yet once piece of news in store for them : The Americans never will make peace until the free- dom of the seaa be completely and unequivocally recognized as a basis 1 The above letter was sent to the editor of a perioiiicul p4p(!r in the month x)f June following, accompanied by the subsecjuent remarks : The foregoing letter was sent to a member of parliament in ilie month of January last, and a cjny of it was intended to be sent to your Review •t the same tirat ; but other avocations retarded it for a fc-w weekd, and upon reflection, it was iudged adviseable to decline the publication until the new systeip adopted towards America should fully develope itself. I am now sorry to find that the most of my conjectures, unfavourable a« tdey were, are short of the reality. I fjjnd, too, tliat th y are corro- borated by the opinions of men uf the most extensive information an4 judgment : Mr. Baring's very able pamphlet upon the orders in council, and Mr. Brougham's admirable speech upon the same subject, in sum^ ming up the evidence before the house ot commons, are before the pub- lic, aou ought to be read by eltery commercial man in these kingdoms. Sanctioned l)» tliese, and by the evidence of facts, further reserve is un- necesfary. 9^e cannot stem the torrent, — but we can endeavour to op pen the eyes of our countrymen to see the sacrifice which many of then> (te so loud)y calling for ; and n 3 can prepare such of them as are open t^xonviction for what will infallibly be the i^sue, if the fystem is long persevered in. Necessity may compel the American government to en- courage their own manufactures for the present ; and if they be once cst^)lished, justice to the manufacturers may call upon i^ to protect thena. We run great risk of losing the trade with tlie United State's of Ajnerica for ever. Ertractsfrom the Speech of Mr. Brougham htfore the House qfCommonSt April 1, 1808. SIR, until our orders in council wure issued, it appears clearly, with^ Oiutany reasoning, to any one who looks at the subject, that there was OfO possibility whatever of Bonaparte putting his threats into execution. Xq» wiU find that in every quarter we have, by our orders in council, h(aen crossing and striking in with the enemy s plans, and supplying thoaa dieficiencies in their orders which they in vain attenxpted to make ttp« Yaw .viU see, too, what tlie result has been ; that tb«. commerce of ^ftl 4aic^ ^Oiurisihing country is now brought down to a statu lower tbaol it.«iCf .]K|ii«»D«cte? to re«ch# even by the most gloomy prophetSi io Ui« woipit times oroiigr history. -^i *. EXTRACTS VROM BROUOHAm's aPIICH. •07 I hold in my hand a paper ordered to be printed on the 15th of March* and giving the value orimports from the United States, and exnorta thitlier fnr the veara ISO.'i, 1806, and 1(K)7. It appears from thii uocu- inent tliat, in I80G, the imports from America to Great Britain amount- ed to 4-,fif>0,74!5/. real value, and that the exports from Great Britain to the United States, in the same jear, amounted to litS&5,firAl. ; and; by the average of those three years, we find the exports to the United States of America amount to upwards of twelvt millions sterling, and the average of imparts to upwards of four millions and a half; and as tht diproporiion is increasing, we may say, in general, that this country now cxpiirts to America three times as much as she imports from thenct. 1 have jutt to ask the house this one question : Are you willing to con> tinue exportitig to America twelve millions and a half of British produce and manufactures; or are you not? If you arc, how are you to be paid for it ? It is evident that you only receive four millions direct from A- mcrica ; therefore, there are ao less than eight millions wanting, and America, we all know, can only pay you by trading with the continent. If you wish to cut up that trade by the roots, you commit that old so- lecism of power as my lord Bacon so well calls it — you wish to com- mand the end ; but you refuse to submit to the means. You deatre te trade with the United States of America ; but you desire, at the same tittle, to lop off their trade with the enemy, as you call it, which ia, in o- ther words, lopping oft' ihe very commerce which you carry on with yonr enemy, in spite of the war, and in spite of himself, by which you were getting eight millions sterling each year — by which you were ena- bled to continue a trading; nation. You are destroying the only meant by which America can pay that enormous amount to vou. She must have the opportunity not only of taking your goods, but of exporting her own, in order to pay you. She must not only export her own goods— the must also re-export yours with them, in order that you may still send them to your enemy, notwithstanding the hostilities you are engage ed in— notwithstanding the decrees he is threatening your trade with. So stands the matter in argument, or, if you will, in theory ; and I now invite this house to say whether it is posttible for them to conceive anr thing more precise and conclusive than the evidence which has been a«< duced at your bar, to show that this is also the matter of fact, from Cie ' actual history of our trade with America. Therefore, Sir, I say that in every point of view in which we can look at this new system of commercial regulation we see but one effect, name- ly, that of ruining and cutting off, root and branch, the whole ef our traffic with the United States of America ; or^ in other words, I maf say, the whole of our foreign trade. Sir, this short and summary view of the measure, eten without the aid of the statement so satisfactorily set forth in the evidence before you, will, i trust, prove sufficiently decisive to entitle me to leave this branch of the argument without one further comment; and to affirm that I hav^ completely demonstrated a proposition at first sight rather piivadosioat : that England has, by her own measures, effectmu^iftticlljrf ligoraaidj^ «oulitersigned the enemy's edict. ■•I jL >kM-^%. eo8 tt' v^ Am»D», Ko. in. m M . , vaSs ,:. No. III. , ■ ^ Bemarh on the Scottish Peatantry. Sxinwted from Currie'i edition of Bunu' Worki. A SLIGHT acquaintance with the peasantry of Scotland will (lerre to convince an unprejudiced obs^rviT that they possess a degree of in- intelligence not generally found among the same class of men in tlie o« ther countries of Europe. In the very humblest condition of the Scot- tish peasant, every one can read, and most persons are more or less skill- ed in writing and arithmetic ; and under the disguise of their uncouth appearance, and of their peculiar manners and dialect, a stranger will discover that they possess a curiosity, and have obtained a degree of in- formation, corresponding to these acquirements. These advantages they owe to the legal provision made by the par- liament of Scotland in 1646, for the establishment of a school in every parish throughout the kingdom, for the express purpose of educating the poor ; a law which may challenge comparison with any act of legislation to be found in the records of history, whether we consider the wisdom of the ends in view, the simplicity of the means employed, or the provi- sions made to render these means eflfectual to their purpose. This ex- cellent statute was repealed on the accession of Charles II. in 1660, to- gether with all the other laws passed during the commonwealth, as not being sanctioned by the royal assent. It slept during the reigns of Charles and James : but was re-enacted precisely in the same terms by the Scottish Parliament, afler the Revolution in 1696 ; and this is the last provision on the subject. Its effects on the national character may be considered to have commenced about the period of the Union ; and doubtless it co-operated with the peace and security aribing from that bappy event, in producing the extraordinary change in favour of industry and good morals which the character of the common people of Scotland bas since undergone. The church-establishment of Scotland happily coincides with the in- •titution just mentioned, which may be called its school-establishment. The clergyman, being every where resident in his particular parish, be- comes the natural patrdn and superintendant of the parish'schooi ; and is enabled in various ways to promote the comfort of the teacher, and the proficiency of the scholars. The teacher himself is often a candi- date for holy orders, who, during the long Course of study and proba- tion required in the Scottish church, renders the time which can be spar- ed from his professional studies useful to others as well as himself, by assuming the respectable character of a schoolmaster. It is common for the established schools, even in the country parishes of Scotland, to enjoy the means of classical instruction; and many of the farmers, and some even of the cottagers, submit to much privation that they may ob- tain, for one of their sons at least, the precarious advantage of a learned education. The difficulty to be surmounted arises, indeed, nut from the expense of instructing their children, but from the charge of support- ing them. In the country parish-schools the English language, writing, aod accounts ere generally taught at the rate of six shillings, and Latin at the rate often oi twelve shillings, per annum. In the towns the pri- cit are somewhat higher. |t would be improper ia this place to incpiire minutely into the de- fm^ i,:A 'i!^. I will Rerre gree of in- iti in tlie o« f the Scot- er less skili- iir uncouth ranger will »gree of in- »y the par- >i in every iicating the legislation ;he wisdom ' the provi' This ex« n 1660, to* Ith, as not le reigns of le terms by this is the racter mey [nion; and from that of industry f Scotland ith the in- blishment. parish, be- ihool; and acher, and n a candi- ind proba- in be spar- limself, by s common otland, to mers, and y may ob- ' a learned from the f support- e, writing, and Latin ns the pri- .0 the de- REMARKS ON THK SCOtTTSIl PEASANTRY. 609 grcra of instruction received at rliese seminaries, or to attempt any pre* cise estimate of its effects either on the individuals who are the subjects of this instruction or on the conununity to which they belong. Tiiat it is, on the whole, favourable to industry and morals, though doubtless with some individual exceptions, seems to be proved by the most strik- ing and decisive appearances ; and it is equally clear that it is the cause of tiiat spirit of emigration and of adventure so prevalent among the 8cot$. Knowledge has by Lord Verulam been denominated power ; by others it has, with less propriety, been denuminitted virtue or happi- ness : we may with confidence consider it as a motion. A human being, in proportion as be is informed, has his wishes enlarged, as well as the means 'of gratifying those wishes. He may be considered a's t:iking within the sphere of his vision a large portion of the globe on which we tread, and discovering advantage at a greater distance on its surface. His desires or ambition, once excited, are stimulated by his imagination, and distant and uncertain objects giving freer scope to the operation of this faculty, often acquire in the mind of the youthful adventurer an attraction from their very distance and uncertainty. If, therefore, a greater degree of instruction be given to the peasantry of a country comparatively poor, in the neighbourhood of other countries rich in na- tural and acquired a.lvantages, and if the barriers be reiioved that kept them sepai-ate, emigration from the former to the latter will take place to a certain extent, by laws ^nearly as uniform as those by whi<. h heat diihises itself among surrounding bodies, or water finds its level when lefl to its natural course. Uy the articles of the Union tiie barrier was broken down which divided the two British nations, and knowledge and poverty poured the adventurous natives, of the north over the fertile plains of England, and more especially over the colonies which she had settled in the east and in the west. The stream of population continues to flow from the north to the south ; for the causes that originally im> pelled it continue to operate : and the richer country is constantly invi- gorated by the accession of an informed and hardy race of men, educate ed in poverty, and prepared for hardship and danger, patient of labour, and prodigal of life. The preachers of the reformation in Scotland were disciples of Calvin, and brought with them the temper as well as the tenets of that celebrat- heresiarch. The presbyterian form of worship and of church govern- ment was endeared to the people from its being established by them- ' selves. It was endeared to them aliso by the struggle it had to maintain with the Catholic and the Protestant episcopal churches, over both of which, aiiter a hundred years of fierce, aod sometimes bloody contention, it finally triumphed, receiving* the countenance of government, and the sanction of law. During this long period of contention and of suffering the temper of the people became more and more obstinate and bigotted, and the nation received that deep tinge of fauatisism which coloured their public transactions as well as their private virtues, and of which evident traces may be found in our own times. When the public schools were established, the instruction communicated in them* partook of tha religious character of the people. The Catechism of the VVestminster- Div4Q0B was the universal school-book, and was put into the hands of th* young peasant ])utation. With a strong attachment to the national creed, is con- joined a bigoted preference of certain forms of worship ; the source of which would be often altogether obscure, if we did not recollect that the ceremonies of the Scottish church were framed in direct op- position, in every point, to those of the church of Rome. The information and the religions education of the peasantry of Scotland promote sedateness of conduct, and habits of thought and reflection. — These good qualities are not counteracted by the establish- ment of poor-laws, which, while they reflect credit on the benevolence, detract from the wisdom of the English legislature. Happily, in Scotland, the same legislature which established a sys- tem of mstruction for the poor, resisted the introduction of a legal pro- vision for the support of poverty ; the establishment of the first, and the rejection nf the last, we're equally favourable to industry and good morals ; and hence it will not appear surprising, if the Scottish peasan- try have a more than usual share of prudence and reflection, if they ap- proach nearer than persons of their order usually'do to the definition of a man, that of " a being that looks before the after." These observa- tions must, indeed, be taken with many exceptions : the favourable operation of the causes jest mentioned is counteracted by others of an opposite tendency ; and the subject, if fully examined, would lead to discussions of great extent. When the reformation was established in Scotland, instrumental music was banished from the churches, as savouring ton much of " profane minstrelsy." Instead of being regulated by an instrument, the voices of the congregation are led and directed by a per»on under the name of a precentor, and the people are all expected to join in the tune which he choses for the psalm which is to be sung. Church- music is therefore a part of the education of the peasantry of Scotland, in which they are usually instructed in the long winter nights by the parish sciiool-master, whor is generally the precentor, or by itinerant teachers more celebrated for their powers of voice. This branch of education had, in the last reign, fallen into some neglect, but was re- vived about thirty or forty years ago, when the music itself was re- formed and improved. That dancing should also be very generally a part of the education of the Scottish peasantry, will surprise those who have only seen this description of men : and still more those who reflect on the rigid spirit of Calvinism, with which the nation is so deeply affected, and to which this recreation is strongly abhorrent. The winter is also the ieasoD when they acquire dancing, and indeed almost all their other ifistruotion^ They are taught to dance by persons generally of their own niimber, many of whom work at daily labour during the summer months. The school is usuallv a barn, and the arena fur the perform- ers Is generally a ^lay floor. The dome is lighted by candles stuck la -J2mhi>ii. ''l /.» — . f.S'UMS*'^ ^ RIMARKS ON THK SCOTTISH PBASAMTRT. 611 iverbs of r succes- le sacred pretation struction a» of tlie se of in- {ibuR dis- , is con- e source recollect irect op- isantry of ught and establisb- evolence, led a sys- egal pro- first, and and good h peasan- f tbey ap- finition of 5 observa- avourable lers of an d lead to truraental mucb of strument, on under to join in Church- Scotland, Its by the itinerant iranch of Lit was re- was re- education seen this igid spirit d, and to I also the leir other of their ! summer perform- stuck in «ne end of a cloven stick, the other end of which is thrust into th* wall. Reels, strathspeys, country-dances, and hornpipes are here prac- tised. The jig, so much in favour among the English peasantry, hus no place among them The attachment of the people of Scotland of every rank, and particularly of the peasantry, to this amusement, is very great. After the labours of the dav are over, young men and women walk many miles, in the cold ancl dreary nights of winter, to these country daniing-schools ; and the instant that the violin sounds a Scottish air, fatigue seems to vanish, the toil-bent rustic becomes erect, his features brighten with sympathy ; every nerve seems to thrill with sensation, and every artery to vibrate with life. These rustic per- formers are less to be adi'ired for grace, than for agility and anima- tion, and their accurate observance of time. Their modes of dancing, as well as their tunes, are common to every rank in Scotland, and are now generally known. In our own day they have penetrated into England, and have established themselves even in the circle of royalty. In anotuer generation they will be naturalized in every part of the is- land. The prevalence of this taste, or rather passion for dancing, among a people so deeply tinctured with the spirit and doctrines of Calvin, is one of those contradictions which the ptiilosophic obserTer so often finds in national character and manners. It is probably to be ascribed to tlie Scottish music, which through all its varieties, is so full of sen- sibility, and which, in its livelier strains, awakes those vivid emotions that find in dancing their natural solace and relief This triumph of the music of Scotland over the spirit of t'ne esta- blishp ' religion, has not, however, been obtained without long-conti- nue' u ■ -. istinate struggles. The numerous sectaries who dissent firowi >:itablishment, on account of the relaxation which they per- .ceive, ^r tiiink they perceive, in the church, from her original doc- trines and discipline, universally condemn the practice of dtincing, and the schools where it is taught ; and the mure elderly and serious part of the people of every persuasion, tolerate rather than approve these meetings of the young of both sexes, where dancing is practised to their spirit-stirring music, where care is dispelled, toil is forgotten, and prudence itself is sometimes lulled to sleep. The reformation, which proved fatal to the rise of the other fine arts in Scotland, probably impeded, but pould not obstruct, the pro- gress of its music ; a circumstance that will convince the impartial in- quirer, that this i>T.u$ic not only existed previously to that aera, but had taken a firm hold of the nation ; thus alfording a proof of its anti- quity stronger than any produced by the researches of our antiquaries. The impression whic-t the Scottish music has made on the people, is deepened by its union with the national songs, of which various col- lections, of unequal merit, are before the public. These songs, like those of other nations, are many of them humourous, but they chiefly ^eat of love, war, and drinking- Luv is the subject of the greater proportion. Without displaying the higher powers of the imagination, they exhibit a perfect knowledge of the human heart, and breathe a spirit of affection, and sometimes of delicate and romantic. tenderneitt jpiot to be surpassed in modern poetry, and whicia thi^ woira polilhefl Utrainfl of antiquity have seldom possessed. ■ •< ■ ■ '^ .. ^mm-. ' I 612 "Th:- AVPEKOTX, SrO. III. There h mjw a logal provision for parochial schoolK, or rather for a «chool in each of the difierent townships into which the country is divided, in several of the northern stares of North America. They are, however, of recent origin there, excepting in New England, where they were cstublishiid in the Inst century, probably about tl'O same time as in Scotland, and by the same religious sect. This is also the case in certain districts in £ngland, particuluily in the northern parts of Yorkshire and of Lancashire, and in the counties of West- nioruland and Cumberland. A law, providing for the instruction of the poor, was passed by the parliament of Ireland ; but the fund was divcrtHd from its purpose, -and the meaure was entirely frustrated. / * oh pudor !* The similarity of character between the Scots and the people of Kew England can scarcely be overlooJicd. That it arises in a great measure from the similarity of their institutions for instruction, cannot be questioned. It is no doubt increased by physical causes. With a superior degree of instruction, each of these nations possesses a coun- try that may be said to be sterile, in the neighbourhood of countries comparatively rich. Hence emigrations, and other effects on conduct Jind character which such circumstances naturaliv produce. This sub- ject is in a high degree curious. The points ul dissimilarity between fthese nations might be traced i#}ilfeetr causes also, and the whole inves- tigation would perhaps admit of fin approach to certainty in our con- clusion, to which such inquiries seldom lead. How much superior in morals, in intellect, and in happiness, the peasantry of those parts of . England are, who have opportunities of instruction, to the »amc clas9 .in other situations, those who inquire into the subject will speedily -discover. The peasantry of Westmoreland, and of the other districts mentioned above, if their physical anA. moral qualities be taken to- gether, are, in the opinion of the editor, superior to the peasantry of any part of the island.-)- :1 V From the foregoing account of the parish establishment of Scotland, it will readily be perceived that the Scottish peasantry are placed un- der circumstances pL-culiarly favourable to the dissemination of know- . ledge among thera. As they receive an early education, they are ge- nerally intelligent, and have a taste for reading, but, being mostly in V poor circumstances, books, to a great extent, are not within their reach. . To provide for the general dissemination of knowledf^e, by books, it occured to me, that an excellent plan would bu to adapt a system of public libraries, one to be established in' each parish. ' I communicated this idea to a friend in the beginning of the year 1804. He concurred wito me in opinion ; and, witii a view of trying * "With what execration tihould tlie statesman be loaded" wbo could frustrate a racaniK (o beneficial to society ! If the statcbtnau who neglects ta provide (he means " dfibttmetito be culpable, what are we to think of those who are Appo&cd to the iiistruc- gUlm td thenaaBof the pooplc altogether 7 * ^^ A bill was brought into the Britisib parliament, by Mr. 'Whitbrcad, in 1808, to I«adp*#*o^orihe aducation of the people bf finglaad. It was opposed \ij tlie whdie itvf and «*un iofluelics of the country, inohMUng even Mr. WjuidiiuB, • fm* '•*rti jHH i-K I'j^^ ■ i-i*****;' ■ s'r'^r*"**-- tber for a jountry is ;a. Tbey England, about tt'O riiib is airio northern of West- !(1 by the purpose, people of n a great m, cannot . With a es a coun< countries n conduct This sub- y between lole invcs- I our con- uperior in e parts of mine clasi speedily T districts taken to- usantry of Scotland, ilaced un- of know- y are ge- liostly in eir reach, books, it lystem of the year of trying frustrate ■ the means the iiuitmc- in 1808, to sed Itjr tliQ mm,m fn« ^vX REMARKS OK TSX SOOTTim PEASANTRY. «» its practicability, we dige:.ted the plan of a library to be estoblinhad in the city of Glasgow, upon such principles that it rniglit, with some tnoditications, be adopted throughout that, or .any atfaier coantry. The greatest difficulty we had to encounter, in putting thi« plan in ex- ecution, was in the attempt to make the property ^entirely public, and to introduce a principle by which every member of the community, in all time coming, might avail themselves of the use of the library on the same terms as the original subscribers. We made many attempts, but could not get a sinule individual to join us, and the plan was Irke- ly to be abandoned, when it occurred to my frieqd, who was a little eccentric, that we could establish the library oaselves. This idea was adopted. We drew up and signed the regulations ; paid our entry- money and annual contribution, and with the amount purchased Paley^s Natural Theology, and Lord Lauderdale's essay on Public Wealth, which laid tiie foundation of the library. My friend took the office of librarian, and I held all the other ofBces. We held regular meetings, and had much intellectual pleasure in superintending our infant insti- tution. The circumstance developed a new fact in the history of liter- ature, namely, that two members were sufficient to form a Hbrary. In the course of a few weeks, we were joined by two or three more, and the funds thiy contributed were immediately laid out in the pur- chase of popular books, which enabled us to gratify our new subcrib- ers as fast as they joined us. By the montli of December, the sub- scribers amounted to 34;, and there were 40 volumes in the libNuy. A general meeting was then held, and the library was formally insti- ^nted on the tenth of that month. Another meeting was held on the Sd of January, 1805, when office-bearers were elected, and the institu- tion has since prospered in a very eminent degree. Its progress for the first four years is exhibited in the following table. Since the yea^ 1808, it progress has been more rapid ; it now contains nearly .'lOOO volumes of choice books, aniLpromises to become one of theowst ex- tensive libraries in the BritislK islands. It is worthy of remark, that party politics were never known in the institution. Table of the Rise and Progress of the Glasgow Public Library. Ni»> Subseriben. 2^o. vuh. No. StU>scr^er$. Ko. volt. ISO^. July Si 2 2 Oct. 1 210 808 Dec. 10 S4f 40 1807. Jan. 1 240 945 1805. Jan. 3 54, 53 April 1 259 A066 April 1 72 169 July 1 275 1105 July I 126 345 Oct. 1 289 1157 Get. 1 145 4^9 I8dS. Jan. \ 31S 1961 1606. Jan. 1 168 487 April 1 S17 14S3 April 1 173 745 July 1 832 1476 July 1 199 7fe2 Sept. 16 SS9 ISM Since I lefl the country, the library has been inooviNnrMecl, *Mi which occasion the articles were somewhat modified, uid are DOliilv sufficiently expressive of the original principlet ' >, 1. re r n .f L Each subscriber, upon his admission, shall pay to the treasurer for the time, twelve sliillings of entry-money ; and the object being the general dissemination of knowledge, the entry-money shall never be raided. IL Each member shall pay an annual contribution of ten shillings and six-pence. Those who enter betwixt the first qP January and the first of April, shall pay a full year's contribution ; those who enter betwixt the first of April and the first of Qctuber, a iialf year's con- tribution ; and those who enter betwixt the first of October, and the first .of January, shall be free till January. The annual contribution shall be paid on or before the second VVednesday of January yearly, and those who fail to do so, shall not have any right to the use of the library till it is paid. Such members as may be under the neces* sity of leaving the place, shall, on thq|| return, be entitled to the use pf the library, on paying the annual contribution for the year then current, and exigible from those members. Should any person who has been a member for five years, become unable to pay the annual contribution, he will be entitled to the use of the library gratis. The curators for the time will be judges of such claims. III. Such as wish at any time to become members of this institution, shall pay the entry-money and annual conttibutinn, in terms nf the forego- ing article, to the treasurer, who will give a receipt, and, upon producing it to the librarian, he is empowered to add his name to the list of subscri- hers, and admit him a member accordingly. The right of a member to the use of the library may be transferred to any other person, upon •uch member sending a letter to that eflect to the treasurer, and the person, to whom the transfer is made, paying two shillings and six- jpence in name of entry-money. IV. The funds to be raised in virtue of this institution, shall, afler defraying the necessary expences, be applied in purchasing books of •Pl^rovea merit only. Of these a judgment will be formed by a ma- Witv of the members, at each general meeting. But no purchase !pau at any time, be made, to a greater exten. ;han the funds in band . |l» a))0|pi^t to.pigr. st^ i*»7t«-'^*''"-'/; per, „^ ■»»«^:» ^,^'^:<^.mi^i-^d,'ill«^Jii»^» tr, 1804. esent and ultivation i^e, IS an tention of ty, to es- ARY iw ^ulations, urn apqu- n the fol- ■■ J ' -^ >'. treasurer being the be raued. shillings ^ and the irho enter tar's con- , and the fitribution ry yearly, le use of he neces- 10 the use f^ear then rson who le annual itis. The nstitution, hejore^p- producmg yf aubscri- nember to son, upon , and the and six- tiall, after books of by a ma- purchase M in band INSTITUTION or THB GLASGOW PUBLIC tIBRAKT. 61t y. The property of the library shall be, and the same is hereby vested in the members IN trust, for the purposes of the institution, the title whereof shall be, " 'J'he Glasgow Public Libbary, insti-* TUTED IN THE YEAR 1804." VI. There shall be four general meetings annually, viz. on the first Wednesday of January, the first Wednesday of April, the first Wed- nesday of July, and the first Wednesday of October. Intimation of the place and hour of such meetings, shall be rent to each member by the secretary or librarian, three days before the meetings take place. Extraordinary general meetings upon special aifairs may, in like .nan- ner, at any tin.e be called by the curators, who shall also be obliged to call such meetings within eight days after a written request to that effect is made to them, by any 12 of the members. VII. The management of this institution shall be vested in a com- mittee, consisting of nine curators, a treasurer, secretary, and libra- rian ; of whom four shall at all times be a quorum. The election shall take place at thr general meeting, on the first Wednesday of Janu- ary, yearly, by a majority of the members then assembled. The three curators who are then at the head of the list, shall go out of the ofEce, and three others shall be elected in their place, and added, in the order of their election, to the foot of the list. The presiding curator shall put the question, which of the members shall be first elected one of the three curators ; and from the person so elected, he shall, either in presence of the meeting, or at the first subsequent meeting of the curators, take a solemn promise, rbat he will discharge the duties of his office with fidelity. And in like manner the election of the second and third curators, of the treasurer, secretary, and librarian, shall be conducted. When a vacancy occurs in the curacy, it shall be filled up by the members at the next general meeting, and the person or per- sons so elected, shall, in the order of their election, be added to the foot of the list of curators. Tiie offices of treasurer and secretary, may be vested in one or two persons, as the meeting may think pro- per, who, with the librarian, may he continued at pleasure. At all meetings, the first curator shall be present ; in the absence, the next curator, and so on to the last ; in the absence of all the curators, the treasurer ; and in his absence, the eldest member present. VIII. The treasurer shall have the management of the society's funds, and the secretary of the minutes and correspondence, and both ofiices shall be purely honorary. The librarian, who is also under se- cretary, shall have the management of the books of the library, sub* ject to the rules made, or to be made, by the members for its govern" ment, and may or may not have a salary, as circumstances shall di- rect. ^ IX. A meeting of the committee shall be held on the Wednesday pre- vious to each general meeting, when the treasurer shall lay a state of his transactions before them, for the purpose of being audited and set- tled, and the balance in his hands ascertained. They will then in- form themselves of the state of the library, and make out a report thereon, to be laid before the general meeting, together with a list * of such books as they would recommend for the use of the library. AaiL. tie better to enable them to prepare such list, every Bsonber is invi w^ to lodge with the librarian, before the committee meetfogs take pal^ • nemorandum of such books, not exceeding five ianumbw ai.BMMit J i/i>-^^' 'ikt^. <> (HV Mvvmmjnxt vch in. . his apfrobatiM*^ Theeommietee shall also cause a list of the mrai- bera to be made op eight days previous to the general meeting, on the fiyat Wednesdajr of January, yearly, which list shall be entered in » book kept for the purpose, signed by the secretary, and shall, if re- quired, be iroduced M every general meeting. To that list shall he added the nbmes of those who, during the year, have become members of the institutioD, aod from it the names of those who die, renign, or forfeit their right, shall be delated. The first cttrator and secretary shall have power to call a meeting of the committee, as oflen as they may think necessary, of which the secretary ahall give proper notice to all the members, the doy before' Hich meetings' take place ; and it shell be incumbent on every member to attend, or to send a written excuse to the satisiuction of the meet- ing. But if any member neglect to attend, or to send an excuse for two sueceaslve meetingev he shall be held as having resigned his office. X. At oaiieh quarterly general meeting, u report nf the proceedings' of the committee shall be laid before the members for their considera- tion. The lisfe of books previously prepared by the committee, shall- aW be laid befeve them, from which they sliall make a selection, with any addition* they may judge proper, and give orders to the treasurer which to purchase accordingly. XI.- A nrajority of two-third» of the subscribers, at any general meeting. aeseraMed^ may apply to the crown^ for a charter of incorpo-' ration, a* tathe provost, magistrates, and town-council of the city of Glasgow, fur a seai< of cause, in confirmation of these regulations. The society reserre the power of adding to, altering, or amending these regulations^ But no such additions, alterations, or amendments- shall be madoj unless » specific motion in writing is- made, seconded, and entered upon the minutes, at a general meeting of the society. And, in order to allow the members time to deliberate on the proprie- ty of sucli additions, alterations, or amendments, thus made and se- condied^ the consideration thereof shall not be resumed until thequar- teriy meeting, occurring three months thereafter, and if approved uf by two-tilirds of the membe«'9 present at such quarterly meeting, tliu same shall thenceforward be come a law of the society. But it is de- clared that no law shall ever he passed td dissolve the society, or to pre- vent the puldic mt large from ^Mrticipating in its advantages, b^ raiyiug tke entrymonet/. t 'v- RULES FOR THE LIBRARIAN, Ik Tb» libvariaw shall keep the key of the liUrary, and have the custody of the books, for which he sliall be accountable. When he entemiw lliv cbarge, he shall receive an' exact catalogue of the books, uabatribesi by the treaswrer and five of the curators, which shall lie in the liblMav; ana a«apy of-this catalogue, suiiscribcd by the librarian, with tat aAa o wf s dg ia aat of his having received the books therein, shall be l|||td: i»iA» ihtftreasarer. ^U Baclsaabseriber shall be entitled to receive from the librarian, ^^ ttgihnvimWt passcasstoa at one time, only, one volume of folio, or ^^ '^\"'"'ui|)|(litflfl'r •• tiro S*t. t '. M'!i'^'!l'^l'^'''^t^ f'tSS*-*' OK THE BniTISH AND AMERICAN TRADE. 617 ill. Books in folio may be kept out of the library six weeks at a time; in quarto, four weeks ; in octavo and under, two weeks. A single num- ber of any book, reriew, or magazine, four days only. IV. If any subscriber detain a book beyond the time specified, he roust pay a fine of three-pence for every week the book is so detained* and for a less time in proportion ; and he can have no other book ftom the library till the former oe returned, and the fine paid. V. If any subscriber shall lend, or suffer to be lent out of his house or family, any book or pamphlet belonging to the library, he shall forfeit two shiHings and six-pence for the first offence, five shillings for the se- cond, and if guilty of a third, he shall forfeit all rigiit to the library. VI. If a subscriber lose a book, he must pay the value of it ; or if a volume of a set be lost, that set must be taken and paid for. If any book be injured beyond what may be reasonably alloweo for the using, it must be laid before the committee for their determination, and the injury be paid for to their satisfaction. VII. 'fhe librarian must take a receipt, in a book to be kept for the purpose, for every book lent out ; but should it be inconvenient for any subscriber to attend in person for the purpose of granting such receipt, he must send a line to the librarian, who will in that case be authorised to subscribe for him. VIII. The librarian must lend out the books to the subscribers in the order of their application. A subscriber, after keeping a book the time specified, may take it out anew, provided no other subscriber has applied for it in the interim. When I was in Edinburgh, in the month of January, 1809, 1 inserted an account of the institution in the Scots Magazine, preparatory to re- commending the plan for parish libraries in that work. My subsequent operations have defeated that intention, in consequence of which I have introduced the subject here ; and the plan being founded on the princi- ples of equality, and having answered well in practice, I have no hesita- tion in strongly recommending it to those who may be concerned in es- tablishing public libraries. -:) I % No. IV. ,,j ,'Tj.';.;iii li;^. iS-'u Essay on the Trade between Britain and America. : . ,A . ■n FOR THE AURORA. The inhabitants of Great Britain and the United States of America are so allied by consanguinitv, by language, by their mutual wants, and by their ability to serv^ each other, that a commercial intercourse bei tween them is of more importance than between any other two nations on the world. Circumstances of a very extraordinary nature have oc- curred to interrupt this commerce, and matters have of late assumed such a serious appearance that very gloomy apprehensions begin to be «ttt«rtained that it may be entirely cut off. The great hnportance of the subject may be deduced from the manner in which it has engrossed* ttfH^ altettdoa of all ranks of the community in both countries ; and, as miglM .^| beteipected, very many erroneous speculations are afloat upon it. I^/^l! tiartifbular, the primary cause of the interruption has ^em stadieiti^'^ kkf^fkota the public view, while other causes have been aliened which have BO existence in fact ; and many writers on both stdei bt the quwK t j 78 , ^.i' ,?■■: .& ''" 618 At>l>KNDlX, }tO: IV. 1 i >*• *ii Mt* '■ 4 - ' r 1 ^ Uon have not scrapled to affirm that the trade between the two coun* tries is of little importance. I shall in this communication take a siun- inary clance of the nature of this commerce, making such deductions ■s 1 thmk the subject warrants ; and I shall assign a reason for the inter- ruption, which I believe to be correct. I shall assume as a data that the exports from Great Britain to Amc- rica have of late amounted annuallv to about 12 millions sterling, or about ' .'id millions of dollars ; and that the returns in American produce have amounted to about 5 millions sterling, or about 2!S millions of dollars. ■ The balance was paid to Britain by bills of exchange arising from the trade between America and the continent of £urope ; and the greater part of the carrying trade has been in American vessels. Now, the exports from Britain to America have consisted principally of manufactures, which that ingenious and industrious people have brought to great perfection, and can, in general, furnish on better terms than anv other nation in the world. This arises from the manner in which the manufactures are organized. Particular branches have been brought to maturity in particular districts of countn' best calculated for carrying them on ; thus — cotton manufactures in Manchester, Glasgow, Paisley, &c. linen manufactures in Ireland, and different parts of Scot- land ; woollens in Leeds, Bury, Shrewsbury, &c. hardware in Birming- ham, cutlery in Sheffield,' hosiery in Nottingham, Leicester, &c. &c The necessary divisions and sub-divisions of labour have taken place. The labourers are possessed ofa patient industry and a frugal economy which cannot be surpassed. A great portion of the labour is performed by ma- chinery, more especially since the successful introduction of the steam engine ; so that all the articles above enumerated, and many others that might be mentioned, can, notwithstanding the press of taxation arising from the dissipation of the CQurt, be furnished in Britain on better terms ■than in any other nation whatever. Now, it is surely the interest of the people of Britain to dispose of as many of these manufactures as possible, i'hey cannot get a better market than the United States. It is the interest of the people of the United States to receive then), so long as they can apply their industry to better advantage in clearing and cultivating their landsi and in applying to other branches of internal policy. Again, the returns that are made to Britain are miftually advantageous. They clear the hands of the growers of produce here of their surplus ar- ticles, at fair prices ; and furnish a supply of raw materials for the manu- facture^, and of food for the manufacturer!, of timber for buildings and .nacjbinery, of ashes for their bleachfiel^sj to say nothing of mai^ other aprticlea of utility, convenience and luxury. v^ As to the carrying part, it has been mostly in American vessels, and it is mutjiially advantageous that it should be so, for this very plain rea- «Oii, that it can be done at the cheapest rate. Britain being kept in ^ atate of eternal warfare, hef shipping is of course subjected to consider- abif sea-risk, aud a consequent increase of freight and insurance, wnich American shipping n exempted frofn ; and it follows that theraeapest will be preferred* Just so will commerce always regulate itself, ifleft , to.ita.own operation; and the greatest service that governments can ran- d«f it ia *' to let it idone." I believe it may be s^ely aiSroied that by ,b^hig outiicd in American vessels during the war, American produce . w^ g«rtd the British market frinn 10 to 12 per cent, cheaper) tpd Bri- ra % »>«'.« [tii'o coun- ^e a BUDi- ;;duction crease— party distinctions would be done away— political names would be no longer applied as terms of reproach— we would be all federalists— we would be all republicans. V'w'v-j ly-rfV ♦t'^i i ."•*>,'.' ■(•■p,ii'^''^ i^.»Aj' \. V : V'i-V iV i i I \ ■' J^ 3 ' '^ '.im jdW!s£t.a5^^«. .«..^: Ekispte^'-^''"""'^'^'^ , i. . • « -v . !i '. ro iTiK ; ADYICE TO EMIGRANTS TO AMERICA. , 1 m Thefulloruius extracts Jrom a letter xvritten by Climemts BuRtBiON. F.sti. xioho resided for W yeara in the United States of North Anurica^ xuill be found useful to such persons as mean to emigrate to that coun- fry:— ^ 'If ** II; 1 • j^T-^^B^M 1 "I. ':^p ** I will now proceed to give some inntructioM to my own country men, who niuy hercofter emigrate to the United States of America. I shall flrst take up the poor mechanic and day labourer, next the farmer who may go there with money to purchase land, and next the merchant. •* I will take the liberty, as an introduction, to point out some stum* bling blocks that have been in the way of many emigrants to this coun- try. We conceive the vessel coming to anchor, and the passengers preparing for going ashore. On settmg their feet on land, they look about them, sec fine houses, gardens, and orchards, the streets crowd- ed with well'dreascd people, every one pursuing his own business.— ~ Well, the question now is, where shall 1 go? I meet a person passing, and address myself to him, requesting him to inform me, where I can Ikave accommodations for some short time. He will point out a house which he thinks may answer mv appearance, &c. I get my goods conveyed to this house. The landlord and his family receive me as a foreigner, and so long as I have cosh will have a watchful eye over me, and treat me according to what money I spend with them. In the mean time> on the arrival of an Iribh ship, a crowd of poor Irish, Mho have been in that country for a number of years, are always fond of meeting their countrymen on landing, and of encouraging them to take a share of grog or porter. See. The feelings of tliu open-hearted Irish- man are alive to the invitation, and bunie daycare spent in this way, in the company of men who are a disgrace to the country they came from, and who are utterly incapable tu procure themselves work, much less the poor emigrant. 1 warn emigrants, tiierefure, to be upon their guard. •^^ J|he plan, therefore, which I would recommend, is that upon land- jTlw^ soon as convenient, they should divest themselves of |my heavy ''''««li£^ge, such OS chests or boxes ; and in the mean time, if they are \i(i^mcwni of money to carry them to the inland parts of the country, 'Sktfp' seme time, and If they cai^ get work apply to it, and use whuJt i ttt^0Mr^ with economy, and keep clcur of all idle company, mid also bepfvticvlar in keeping clear of a certain description of their own coantf3r|ii|en.V When they have acquired as much money as may Itelp l»6«iur:tli^i»^jpenc«i, le( theni put their ^undies on i^pard one oftbe ItffeiMint, hmSkA wUk 'mM^imiAiz6E9f,.tkfi Western coaotry. By be> ' . -3 '" ^ M^' . '■ "'*, '.'- ' ^to.W ■.•;'■■ . ^■. .; r «iR.V = i^*r^ \i\ *fEi ,#• IICA. BuRttlOM, h Amtricat that court' I countrj' P America. , next the d next the ome stum* this coun- pauengera they look ets crowd- •usinesB. — m passing, here I can ut a house my goods e me as a ! over me, '• In the rish, «ho '8 fond of m to taice ted Irish- this way, 'ey came rfc, much pon their on land- ny heavy they are country, ise whuit imd aiso lieir own lay belj^ ; >e of the ,' By be.-T" AOVICB TO EMIGRANTS. 621 Ing actire and obliging to the carrier on the way, he will charge little or nothing on your arrival at Pittsburg, or Greenaburg, or any other town in the western parts of Pennsylvania. You then take your pro- {terty from aboard of the waggon, if it suits, and make uiquiry for abour. The best plan would be to engage a year with some opulent farmer, for which period of service, you will receive 100 dollars, and during that time be found in meat* drink, washing, and lodging. I'lits will be an apprenticeship that will teach you the work of the country, such as cutting timber, splitting fence rails, and other work that is not known in Ireland. Be temperate and fru|;al, and attend worship on Sundays with your employer's fkmily. This will keep vuu clear of a nest or vipers, who would be urging you to go to tippung^houses with them, to drink whiskey, and talk about Ireland. At the expiration of the year, if your employer is pleased with your conduct* he will not bo wiUmg to part with you, and will enter into engagements ««ith you, which is often done in the following way. viz. — He will point out to you a cer- tain number of fields to be cultivated, some to be under wheat, otliers in rye, Indian corn, oats, &c. ; he ^ will find horses, and farming uten- sdi> and furnish boardine, washing, and lodging, during that year, and when the harvest is taken off the ground, he has two«tbirds for his share, and you have one-third. Yeur share of wheat, rye, Indian corn or any other produce of the ground, which you have farmed in this way, you will always meet a ready market for. It is true, ^ou must attend early and late to vour work, and do it in a neat, farming- like manner. Pursuing this plan of industry a few years, you may save as n^uch money as will purchase 150 acres of land m the state of Ohio, or the Indiana territory, or any other part of these new states. It is necessary to guard against imposition in the title, as titles are very un. certain in some places. When you are now possessed of a fiirm of land in fee simple, clear of all rents and annuities for ever, the next thing to be done, is to clear the land of the timber, which is done in the following manner :— ^First of all, the underwood has all to be iakep up bv the root, with a maddock : this is called grubbing : every sap- Img less than four inches in diameter must be taken out, and piled up. m heaps and burned. When this is done, you commence cutting down the timber, the straightest of which, after being cut down, is measured off in lengths of 1 1 teet, so far as tlie body of the tree will admit, and cut and split into rails of about 4 inches in diameter, for the purpose of enclo* aures. All other tinkber is cut down amd raised up in heaps and burned, or hauled off the s round. You next commence budding your ff nee, by lay- ing tturee rails horizontally on the ground, with one end renting oalhe 4>ther, in a zigzag manner, forming obtuse angles. A good fe;)ce se* quires to be at least 7 rails high. When this is done, you may the^ enter with the plough, and plant your Indian corn, or wheatf (^,wj^^ ever you mean to plant in the field. It is now that evary stroke joa strike is for ybur ownftdvantage, as you are lord of this property, A loff-house and barn are easily b^ilt— your nfigMMiirs will oome ten uueslo help you, as they wift expect like favodrs ^om youin r^iwv Ea«h!y4Mryo)i may at least clear 8 or iQicreikaiid in tkfi apafie ofTOor 19.y««r«* youiney: taki» your cape. Tiiia i§ poioUiw out to vou the MtJIk thai industrious men have pursued, wlioiiow Uve mk^a^nd indieflit^Hlmilr r-^AoiH I am consent, that in Anmim^ witliottt the knoat plow ^ plisatton to labour, and using frugally, liad ia not altained^ by mt !' . 4 i *^ V'. j ♦ ' M^H 1 ■j .. d^ 1 ' :,;#JH^ V'^jH^H '.'■"^!^HI '(^H '^m9i 1' SM y-" |is^|sM fe,5''^Sl \:: f^^ ^^-Hi •■rf ^i , .!■%• \ 1 (' ' ;H r I V ; 4 ■ \ i 62s . AbVlCE TO F.MIGKANl!<. who emigrate to that country destitute of funds. I am conviii a repetition of which would chili the blood, and be only a mo- nument of discruce to people of niy own colour. " being in the neighbourhoodof the Indians during the time of peace, need not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to bim, as idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from tuese people of his own colour, than from the Indiana. ** I have now given my advice to the poor single man — 1 fehalt offbr some remarks to the poor man who has a ikknily, and wishes to establish himself in the country. First, on lahdin^, make no stay in the sea-port, Ikttt m soon as circumstances will permit, (as I hinted before^ | sell olF every thing that you can pottibly spare, and by attending tnejibrstf- raaricot, you may putcbaso ft k>w\>riceil horse, which you may convey your effisets on ; and if you have mote than it is convenient for hini t4» eirry, jfoti wiU always find famterVwaggots going back into Uib obun^ try, that #iH carry it for'you. When you arrive iu the Western coutlilljr, m. '^'■'' %^' '• •'\': w-* f^i^V i ADVICE TO EMICBANTS. 6S3 nviuccd at- the Unit- ed; but this s they are U country, >e poor dis* his golden er his mi«- turve; and at will not ;!>i looking ger that is e turnpike must find compan« once, and lem. The e docketl ; srges, eni- indrcds of ho at this re old, in- > tite fron- this is no jctly inof- f'ou call at ave — they vere starv- I'ctly safe, r defence. Elated with heniselves ands havo fring them ed States, them. I lilness to Illy a mo- of peace, ^erous to has more e Indiana, hall offbr establish vea-port, ) «ell oir neAbratf- ir hint 10 Ii6 obu»> your best way to act, would be to apply to so^ne wealthy man, who owns large Quantities of land, and enter into an engagement with him, on a lease oi improvements— he will give land seven years on the fol- lowing terms : — that is, you are obliged to clear 50 acres of tillable land, and ten acres of meadow, build a log-house and bam, and all you make off the land is your own. I have known many, who at the ex- piration of the term had decently maintained their tamilies, and had put up seven or eight hundred dollarn, arising from the sale of grain and cattle, and were able to mpve further back and purchase land, as I have before mentioned ; and now, likely, your little family i$ gi pyirn up, and able to render you a great assistance, clearing your land, and en- abling you to be comfortable in the evening of life. « My advice to mechanics is, to push back, and take residence io' some of the inland towns ; and as new counties arc every year divid- ing off, and towns pitched upon to be the seat of justice for these counties, work for all kipds of mechanics is plenty, and money suflt- cicnt may soon be earned, to purcliat>'e a lot in one of thei ing to pay onlv a mere trifle; and it is well known that at least three- fourths of the mhabitants of Upper Canada are composed of emigrants from the United States, or the descendants of such. The <)uestion will be asked, what is the reason that people living under a republican form of goverment, should transplant themselves, and take refuge under a monarchical? * * There are several reasons that may be assigned. First, durine the re- volution, a number of royalists, whose property was confiscated by the Governn)ent of the United States, remo«ed to Upper Canada, and ob- tained land from the British Government. The descendants of these people now occupy these lands, and are i|> easy circumstances. Ano- ther reason is thut the land in the Eastern States is generally poor thin soil; whereas, Upper Canada is more fertile, and land obtained for little or nothing, and the fleets and army of the pother country able to pro- tect them both at home and abroad, with full liberty of the fisheries on the Banks of Newfoundlands which we enjoyed a right or privilege to previous to the late war, but is not granted to us now. We have also been inuch curtailed in the East India trade, by the late peace with Great Britain. Another reason that may be assigned for people of the United States moving into Canada, is that taxes are very light in Canada, wlieress at present in the United States taxation is heavy. Aidd ta this the violent contention and party spirit that prevails, which is divays disgUktmW and disagreeable to sober, industrious, well-ckisposed citiaens, and^evtr lias the tendency to weaken the force of the country^ Had the Anwericans been fullv united in sentiment, as to the propriety oftke ^ last waif, Canada would have been taken the first campaign. Altbougli * the Canadians are very Idyal, and fought with unexamp^^ed courage, yet ihey^vuld have been overwhelmed with numbers. Sine* the ptace^ the erhigirali^ to Canada has been yefy greats and that country li iiatK tliug very fast. Tbere has also bacB an enAieratlon firem- the watbafik states into the -Spanish province of fiasl ' Florida^ where they haVo settled .- — -1'-" .tfjy" HINTS TO EMICRANTS 6^5 iei, on ae* e to spare i commonly fee simple, 'orld, they the whole- to couotry nd spring ; — and that that these ors are aU ecoTcry of len bought and forms way to do Ion I have Upper and >va Scotia, their land e obtained ility, hav- tast three- emigrants estion will Hcan form [e under a nethere- ;ea by the a, andob- s of these ». Ano- poor thin 1 for little le to prO' theries on ivilege to have also eace with )le of the I Canada, Add t« is always citiaens* y. Had i^ty ofthe Although * rage, yet tepMoe^ ry M siBtV klHitlMfft os«Ul6d themselves, and taken the oath of allegiance to the Spanish Government. ** It is to be hopeJ that tho^e feuds and animosities that have hitherto existed will now be shortly done away, and that the unthinking class of people who had urged on the war, have now suffered a disappointment, and been the means of loading the country with a national debt, and by no means have bettered their own circumstances, will be convinced of their error. *' The Americans, in i;cneral, are a brave and generous people, well informed, hospitable, and kind; it would be, tho-tefore, the duty of emi- grants when settled in that country, not to bt tht Rrai to lend a hand ia disturbing the peace of the country — it is the i.oight of ingratitude, as they ought to consider that they have been received, and granted the rights of citizenship ; it is their doty, therefore, to lend a hand to no- thing that may be injurious to their adopted country. I hope Irish cmi' grants when they arrive will copy after some of the rules and instruc- tions I have pointed out, which, if it should turn out to t^eir advantage, as I hope it may, would truly be a great happiness and gratification to their countryman and friend, ' • * Clements Burleigh." ; -i' "'•:4 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS FROM EUROPE, Who intend to make a permanent residence in the United States of Ame- rica ; pointing out the most advantageous places' of settlement, and giv ing directions Jbr the best means of preserving health. , . ...^ , , . 1 HAT hospitality which, as Mr. Jefferson says, the savages of the wil- derness extended to the first settlers arriving in this land, cannot be de- nied by a free, civilized, and Christian people, to brethren eniigrating from the countries of their common fathers; and the exercise of it is pe- culiarly agreeable to us, who haXre (some of us) been induced, by a si- milarity of fate and fortunes with your own, to quit the lands of our na- tivity, and seek freedom and happiness in America. That hospitality ' which the wild Arab never violates, and which the American Indian so often exercises to ^(trangers ; that sacred virtue is dear to our hearts, , which we open to address you in the frankness of friendship and since- rity of truth. We bid you welcome to a land ot freedom ; we applaud your resolution ; we commend your judgtnent in asserting the right of expatriation; a right acknowledged and practised by people of all na- tions, from the earliest ages. to the present time; a right indispensable to liberty and happiness, and which ought never to be surriindered. The free states once established in Asia recognized it ; Greece adopted it. Emigration from thence was uncentrouled; dnd naturalization, which puts the emisrant, civilly, on a level with the native, was there a thing of course. The Romans avowed and vindicated the right in all its lati- tude; Mid this memorable declaration composed part of their code : " Every man has a right to choose the state to Vrhicb he will belong." It is a law of nature, that we may go whither we list' to promote oor happiness. It is thus, indieed, that the arts, sciences, laws, uid civiliza- tion iUi4^ have joumeyei^ >vith eolenier, from one JTcgionfo^mnotheiS . 79 . ■ T :>IV ■■*;» 626 HINTS TO XMIGOANTS. ill If i „>■ from Asia and Egypt to Europe, and from Europe to America. In making this country your home, your choice does you honour; and we doubt not but your conduct will be equally correct, judicious, and ho- nourable. That the laws and institutions of America may be from this moment the objects of your constant respect, we will quote what an European philosopher has said of America as compared, politically, with Europe. " Whilst almost all the nations of Europe," says the Abb6 de Mably, " are ignorant of the constituent principles of society, and regard , the people as beasts of a farm, cultivated for the benefit of the owner, we are astonis led, we arc edified, that your thirteen republics should know, at once, the dignity of man, and should have drawn from the sources of the wisest philosophy the principles by which they are dispos- ed to be governed.*' Even in your state of probation here, as aliens, you will soon perceive that the laws (and ours is a government of laws) are made by the will of the people, through agents called representatives. The will of a ma- jority passes for, and requires the consent of all. Entire acquiescence in the decisions of the majority is the vital principle of republics, from which there is no legitimate appeal ; for resistance to those decisions is an appeal to force, the vital principle and immediate parent of despotism. It is a fundamental truth in nature, and for those not held in servitude, it is law in America, that men are born equal, and endowed with una- lienable rights, of which they can neither divest themselves, nor be de- prived by others. Slaves may be ruled by the will of one, or a few ; but freemen are governed only by the general will. Strangers as you are, you may derive benefit from the counsel and guidance of friends. If one who has gone the road you are about to travel, by only showing you hon it winds beyond the next hill, does you an act of civility, how much more important would be some information that must influence your welfare and future fortune? And when you reflect that circumstances apparently trivial may make the one or mar the other, you will not disregard a communication which relates to the liusiness of life. All that a first conversation with an;j<9migrant can properly embrace, will fall under three heads : ^ I. What relates to his personal safety in a new climate ; / II. His interests as a probationary resident ; and ' • III. tlis future right« and duties as a member of a free state. Under the first will be comprised some directions for your mode of living, and the preservation of your health. The sec( ad would de* htand-some description of this extensive country, which may direct your choice and industry. Under the third should be contained a brief ab- stract of such civil or political matters as behoves you to understand. I. Emigrants from Europe usually arrive here' during summer, and, ^ery thing considered, it is best they should; for in the middle and eastern statea the winter is long, fuel very dear, and employment compa- ratively scarce at that season. In winter they will expend more and earn less. Bat if arriving at this time bear more upon their pocket, the heats of tbesuti^nier are undoubtedly more trying to their health. In the middle states, naiiie^^ Keir York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and MarjrUnd, a norther^ £ftrf){A;an usually firtds the climate intensely hot from about the oaBdle of June ui$tH towards the first of October. Tlie v^hermometet freicjueiii^y rangias fh>m'84 to 90, and sometimes dbove it ly tl this 3,1 r ^■■^ |»jii-»^A .I'lV^M."'";, -l^-.!|i>;.^^i,'i erica. In ' ; and we and ho' from this what an :ally, with Abb6 de nd regard he owner, tcs should from the ire dispos- n perceive >y the will I of a ma- uiesccnce )iic8, from ecisions is lespotism. servitude, with una- lor be dc" or a few ; lunsel and i about to L does you iformation ivhen you nc or mar tes to the embrace, ur mode would de- irect your brief ab- iderstand. mer, and, liddle and at compa- more and Dcket, the >aUh. In 'ania, and nsely hot er. The I above it HINTS TO EMIGRANTS^ 627 in the middle part of the day ; this to a stranger who works in the open air, exposed to the burning sun, is certainly dangerous, and re- quires some precautions on his part. First of all, he should regulate his diet, and be temperate in the quantity of his food. 1'he American labourer or working mechanic, who lias a better and more plentiful table than any other man in the world of his class is, for the most part a small eater, and we recom- mend to you his example. The European of the same condition, who receives meat or fish, and coffee, at breakfast, meat at dmner, and meat or fish, and tea, at supper, an abundance of animal food to which he was unaccustomed, insen;;ibly falls into a state of toogrent repletion, which exposes him to the worst kind of fever during the heats of sum- mer and autumn. He should, therefore, be quite as abstemious in the quantity of food, as of strong drink ; and, in addition to this me- thod of preventing sickness, he should take a dose of active physic, every now and then, especially in the hotter months of July and Au- gust. By this prudent course an ardent climate will have no terrors, and after some residence here he may preserve his health by regimen and exercise alone. The labourer or mechanic should put off his ordinary clothes, and wear next his skin a loose flannel shirt, while be works ; it should be taken off again when he has done. The stranger as well as native must be particuliarly carefUl not tu drink cold water after being heated by exposure to the sun or exercise. Sudden and severe pain at the stomach, and even death, are frequent- ly the consequences of such imprudence. The humane Socitty of this city has published the following directions to be observed in such cases ; 1st. Avoid drinking water while the body is heated, or during pro- fuse perMpiration. ■ lid. Wash the hands and face with cold water before drinking. 3d. If these precautions have been qeglected, and cramps or con- vulsions have been induced, let^ a tea-spoonful of laudanum be given immediately in a cup of spirits and water, and repeat ttie dose in half an hour, if necessary. 4th. At the same time apply hot fomentations of spirits and water to the stomach and bowels, and to the lower extremities, covering the body with a blanket, or immerse the body in a warm bath, if it «aa be immediately obtained. .5th. Inject into the bowels a bint pf warm spirits and watery mixed in the proportion of qne part of the foriner to two of the latter. II. uo you ask by this time, with a view to the ordinary business of life. What is America ? What sort of people niay expect to succeed in it? The immortal Franklin has ansturered these questions . '* Araerjea is the land of labour." But it is, emphatically, the best country oil, farth for those who will labour. By industry tiiey can earn more wag^|^ here than elsewhere in the world. Our governnlents are frugal, they demand few taxes ; so that the earnings of the poor man are lefk to enrich himself; they are nearly, all his own. Idlers are out of their element here, and theb^in^ who is techni** ^ly called a man of rank in Europe, is despicable m Aroerica. H irheie sage owvtm 'V\. /Hi 'H 1 \:-, 'f i'.''! -.yJMjj^^^ f^ \ ' <'y* L-4 6j38 BINTS TO EMIGRANTS* is the best that can be ^iven or observed, has said, that it it not ad- visable for a person to come hither " who has no other qaality to re- commend him but his birth. In Europe, indeed, it may have its value, but it is a commodity which cannot be carried to a worse market than that of America, where people do not inquire concerning a stranger, What is he? but, What can he do : If he iias any useful art, he is wel- come, and if he exercises it, and behaves well, he will be respected 1^ all that know him. The husbandman is in honour here, an I so is the mechanic, because their employments are useful " And the peo- ple," he adds, " have a saying, that "* God Almighty is hims If a me- ctiaoic, the greatest in the universe.' " Franklin farther illustrates the gjenerality of industrious habits by the Negro's observation, that ' the white man makes the blackman work, the horses work, the oxen work, and every thing, work except the hog, which alone walks about, goes to sleep when he pleases, and lives like a gentleman.' < ind^^ry aiid frugality, become wealthy farmers, or, us they are fpUed ii^ Europe, testated men, who, in their own countries, where all the lands ace fqlly occupied, and the wages of labour low, could never lUPf^sAB^ergeid from the condition wherein they were born. In tb^ «(«!»( pf Pennsylvaniat there is a custom which the farmers there ne;^ (p buy land pf his own. .. Ii la inv4urmbly the priictipft pf the Amttiam, and well suited tp hia hlfe (^ ipdepeiMientfip* tP.,pu(pha«p a pjece ef land as sppn as he. can, j^ lopultiifa^lMf i^iv'awui,.]^ live at wa|es. It b enuaily in l4)».pQw«r #.iKk«piigi«9^i9 OOL the s«me» after a Tew yean ef tabpor »!.}«&» .'■i.a y aitv 'ij'M"' f^ :^.o.,,*¥>i' M is not ad* lality to re- ire its value, narket than a stranger, he is wel- ! respected , an I so is id the peo* IS .'If a me- istrates the , that ' the oxen work, ibout, goes a good cli- sioua, good nent, and a and virtue." ibourers or I save both f a seaport n any capa> plantation, J employed mt man can anased; he I, ot usages nething into y with them ' to their ad- do with it. lid near the ready to he- poor people, as, together as they are s, where all could never • the farmers ler as to the rhe cropper ploughings, snare of the It farmer be- of the farm* he can i^ve suited to his I as he eaa, is equaily in cs oilabiBur niKTS TO EMIGRANTS. 629 and econorjiy. From that moment he secures all the means of happi- ness. He has a sufficiency of fortune, without being exempt from mo- derate labour ; he feels the comfort of independence, and has no fear of poverty in his old age. He is invested with thu powers a:) well a«i the rights of a freeman, and may ia all cases, without let or appre- hension, exercise thum according to his judgment. He can afford to his children a good education, and kiiows that he has thereby provided for their wants. Prospects open to them far brighter than were his own, and in seeing all this ho is suruly blest. Industrious men need never lack employment in America. Labour- ers, carpenters, masons, bricklayers, stonecutters, blacksmiths, turn- ers, weavers, farmers, curriers, tailors, and shoemakers, and the use- ful mechanics generally, are always sure of work and wages. Stone- cutters now receive in this city, (New York,) two dollars a day, equal to nine shillings sterling ; carpenters, one dollar and eighty- seven and a half cents ; bricklayers, two dollars ; labourers, from one dollar to one and a quarter ; others in proportion. At this time, (July, 1816,) house-carpenters, bricklayers, masons, and stonecutters, are paid tliree dollars per day in Pctersburgh, Virginia. The town was totally consumed by fire about a year since, but it is now rising from its ashes in more elegance than ever. Meclmnics will find ample employ- ment there for perhaps two years to come. Artisans receive better pay in America than in Europe, and can live with less exertion, and more comfort ; because tliey put an additional price on their work, equal to tlie co8t of freight and couuuission charg- ed by the merchant on importations. But there are not many of the laborious classes whom we would advise to reside or evon loiter in great towns, because as much will be spent during a long winter as can be made through a toilsome summer, so that a man may be kept a moneyless drudge for life. But this is not perhaps the worst ; he is tempted to become a tippler, by the cheapness and plenty of liquors, and then his prospects are blasted for ever. In few countries is drunken- ness more despised than in this. The drunkard is viewed as a person socially dead, shut out from decent intercourse, shunned, despised, or abhorred. The pernicious habit is to be guarded against as scrupulous- ly for political as moral consiJerations. Civil liberty every where rests on self respect, while degradation or voluntary debasement is one of the causes uf despotism. Tliese remarks are general ; we have no rear son to su^'pose that one people are mure ignorant than another of moral duty or propriety. It deserves notice that two sister slates have made laws vesting the estate of an habitual drunkard in trustees ; and it has been proposed to deprive such persons of 8u£Prage and the privilege of giving evidence in courts oi' justice. An ancient lawgiver was even more severe; he affixed a double penalty to crimes committed in a state of intoxication. Such have been the methods of legislators topresenre the dignity of man. M^ of science, who can apply their knowledge to useful and prao. tical purposes, may be very advantageously settled ; but aere Utmiiy scholars, who have no profession, or only one which thej cannot pm^ ably practise in this country, do not meet with aauch encmuragemeBfe;. ia i^uth, with little or hone, unless they are willing to dev<^ '^**''% Slaves to, the education of jroutb. The demand fat persons wli»in|l diii th& ja obviously increasii^: andalthough nmy AxcelteM j r i lmi I I ti' ' -t*i,^ ■•^si ^" *'. •' i-: ■.>yB■i{'--«,s*W^,; 6i6 HINTS TO EMI&nANTS. ^ .' J"^' 1 M tors are every where to be found among the natire Americans, there is still considerable room for competition on the part of well qualified fo- reigners. In the seminaries for classical education, it is very com- mon to find the nreceptorsi natives of Ireland, and the same may be said of the mathematical schools. In the southern states, where a thin population is spread over an extensive country, good schools are comparatively few ; but there are rich planters in those districts, in whoso families foreigners of genteel address and good knowledge of the classics, English, and arithmetic, will find employment, and a good sa- lary, as private tutors. It does not detract from a man's personal re- spectability to have been thus employed. The Americans are too wise to treat that condition as mean, which is essential to the honour and prosperity of the nation, and which supposes in its professor natural talents and acquired knowledge. It is not unusual, in this country, to see young men who taught school until they had accumulated some property, nnd who then turn to the professions of law, physic, or di- vinity, or else become farmers or merchants. The practice and feel- ings of the Americans, in this particular, may be judged from the fact, that many gentlemen, who begin their career as schoolmasters, pass through all the gradations of state honours, are appointed to foreign embassies, promoted to the head of departments of the federal govern- ment, and have as good prospects as others of attaining the Presiden- cy. Several instances of this nature might be quoted from this unpre- judiced people. In what part of this extensive country may an emigrant from the northern or western parts of Europe most advantageously settle ? If he be undecided until his arrival, his choice will be agreeably perplex- ed or suspended by the different invitations offered by various sections of this empire. It covers an area between the 31 st and 46th degrees of north latitude, and from the Atlantic ocean to the westward indefinite- ly. In time our settlements will reach the borders of the Pacific. The productions of the soil are as various as the climate. The middle states produce grain of all kinds ; Maryland and Virginia afford wheat and tobacco; North Carolina, naval stores ; and South Carolina and Geor- S'a, rice, cotton, indigo, and (lobacco : to these products, Louisiana and lississippi add sugar and indigo, which are now cultivated in Georgia likewise* Tennessee, Kentucky, Indiana and Ohio are productive of the principal part of the foregoing staples, together with hemp, coal, and audi plants as are found in the northern and middle states, to the imtWUd of the Alle^ny mountains. Over this great tract, the finest Ihiitlgrow in perfection ; grain of every sort is in plenty ; and "he who puts a seed into the earth is recompensedtfernaps, by receivmg fttty out of it." We are of opinion that thoAe (inrts of the tlmtra Stfltas between the 35th and 49d, or 37th and 4>^ degrees of Mrth litifede, will be fotttad most congenial to the constitutions of Europe^ •Hi* New- York, (priiicipall^ ) Pennsylvania, Maryland^ Virginia, |Cen- im^, Ohio, Indiana* the Ilhnois and Missouri territories, are ^read ivilhm diese parallels. As the European is more patient of cold than «f heat, he will be apt to prefer the middle and western, or norths irirestem states to the southern. There he will form connexions with blAelHttiatii- whose matinters iuost nssemble his own. In songie Mte of tkemirrwdtif^ a^^binif if^ilki^ esuiaiiiuitioD, to pitdk bii ^IBti and fix his residence* A:*4^, upon vegetables and inferior aniniaN. The extraordi- nary clmractiTH t' e United States have proiluced niav be, insoaiu mea- lure, ascribed to the mixed blood of ho many nations tjowing in ouf veins; and it may be confidently said that the operation of causes, actin^j; with irre^i- tible elfect, will carry in this country all the improvable facul- ties of human nature to the highest state of perfection " You will, howivtr, ob.^erve that the privilege of citizenship is not granted witi>out proper precautions; to secure that, while the worthy are admitted, t..e unworthy should, if practicable, be rejected. You will from hence deduce the importance of good moral habits, even to the acquisition of political ri(j^hts. The steps to be taken by a foreigner preparatory to, and for the pur- pose of his being natnralizvd, are these : 1st. He must, at least tive yi-ars befi re he can be admitted a citizen of the United States, report hmiself at the office of one of the courts of record, within tl.es tate or territory where he may be ; and in that re- port set forth I is name, birth-place, age, nation, and prirr allegiance, to- gether with the country w hich he has left to come into the United States, and the place of his intended settlement. In general, forms of thi^ re- port will be furnished by thv. clerk of the court, who will also give a certificate under the seal of the court, that the report has been made and filed. This certificate must be carefully kept, for tlie purpose of being produced at the time of application for admi^^ion to citizenship. 'Ihis step of reporting one's arrival is indisptn^able, and ought to be 'taken as soon as possible, because the five years of probation begin to be counted only from the date of the report; and the time which a foreigner may have previously spent in tJie country cannot be rendered of any service towards his naturalization. ^. At Ifast thr<;e years before the alien can be naturalized, he must appear before some one of the courts of record, within the state or ter- ritory where he may be, and there declare, on oath, or affirm, that it is in good faith his intention to become a cijtizen of tl'C United States, to renounce, for ever, all allegiance and fidelity to any sovereign prince, potentate, state, or sovereignty, whatever ; and particularly, bv name, t9 theiprince, potentate, state or sovereigih whereof he may, at the time, be a cit^ten or subject. This oath or affirmation, which mtut have ibeen madi^ ftt least threo years before admission to citizettthip, ma^ be .nsadeat any convenient line after the report of arriva!. Indeed, it is fometimca made on the satpeday, so as to sate trouble a^)d prevent dis- appointment from future negligence oribcgetfulnes«. f«r another rea- lon,' that will be presently pomtfd oat, the sooner it i^ done the safer •nd Ihe better. The clerk m the court also gives a Certificate that tbts oathor affirmation has been duly roaUle, which, like the former, must^ caretuliy kej^for. the purpose of being produced at the time of i^i«f>ing for luit^sliiitiflHDk niNTS TO IMTORANTf. 63& 3 At tliis period the npiilicnnt, nftcr producing both thoie certifi* catpi, niiiHt declare' on oa:n, or uffirmation, before some one of the same courtfi, thut he will support the ron^ititutiun of the United States. II0 must also Hiitisly tlif court, f which cannot be done by the appli'vSnt hiiiiscir, and \i uitu.illy done by the affidavit;! of two rcupcctnblo citi* zcnfl, who know luul cuii te^ti^y to the fucts,) thut he Iiua resided with* in the IJnitod Stites five veurn at least, and within the state or terri* tory where he npplii-s to be admitted, at least one year, and tliat, during ^ucli time, he has bch ived as a man of trood moral character, attached to the orincipie^ of the constitution of the United States, and well disposed to the good ord'.r and li.ippirics.s of the same. The clerk will tlureupun niaki' out a certificate of naturalizatiort, under the seal of the court, which slioald lie carefully kept, and ready to bepro> duced wlioiiever it may be r<'(|uisite. The iiberality of con^res-s has extended the benefits of this admis- sion to ciiizenship, beyond thone '.Vi o perform tliese ri'qiiisites; for the children of a perj-on so naturaliz.d, being urn-! jr ago, and dwell- ing in the L'n tod Stutes at the time of their parent's natiirali/iation, nl- 40 ber.iiiie citiz ns. And, still further, if qny alien who shall dave rc- eularly reported himself, and made oatli or aHIrmation declaratory of his intentions, (which, as we have seen, must precde his own admis- sion by three y urs,) should unfortunately die before he was actually naturalized, his widow and children would thenceforth be considered a* citizens of the United States, and be entitled to all rights and privileges as such, upon taking the oaths prescribed by law. This provision, therefore, turnislies a very strong inducement for losing no time in tQkinjf the oath declaratory of the purty'a jnteinion. (No. 1 ) Report of an Alien, made of nimsejjf to the Clerk of the Supreme Court of Judicature, for the State of NeiU' York, in the City of A'rk, and then and there took and subscribed an oath of his intention to become a citizen of the United States and to renounce fur ever idl allegiance and fidelity to any foreign prince, poten- tate, btite, or sovereignty whatever, and particularly to * in conformity to an act of the Congress of the United States, in that case made and provided. Clerk. (No. 3.) Oaih of Allegiance. City and C<.unfy of New- York, ss. I, do make oath, (or affirm) on the Holy Evangelists of Almighty God, that I will support the Constitu- tion of the United States, and that 1 do abbolutely and entirely renounce and abjure all allegiance and fidelity to any foreign prince, potentate, state or sovereignty whatever, and particularly to whereof I am a sHbject. (No. 4.) Certificate of Citizenship. United States of America. District of Be it recommended, 'hat a suited District Court of tlic United States, held for the district of New York, at the city of New York, on the day of in the year cf our Lord one thousand eight hundred and at present of the city of New Y'ork, came into court, and applied to the said court to be admitted (o become a citizen ef the United States of America, pursuant to the directions of the •TCt of the congress of the Uiited States of America, entitled " An act to establish a uniform rule of naturalization, and to repeal the act heretofore passed on that subject : and also to an act entitled an act in addition to an act entitled An act to establish aa uniform rule of naturalization, and ti. repeal the the acts heretofore passed on that sub- ject." And the said having thereupon produced to the court such evi- dence, and made siich declaration and tonunciation as is by the said acts required; thereupon it was considered by the said court, that the said be admitted, and he was accordingly admitted by the said court, to be a citizen of the Unite :1 States of America. In testimony wiiert-of tkt. seal of the said court is hereunto affixed< Witness, the Ilouoi.'-iiblc Esq. judge of the said court, at tlio city of New York, this day of in the year of the Independence uf the United States. .| ' ,..„ . _ Clerk of the District of New York. In the interval bettx^een the emigrant's choosing a place of abode, and completing the five years of probationary residence, which must elapse before he can become a citizen of the United States, he vrill do well to familiarize himself with the state of parties, and acquire a cor- rect knowledge of our constitutions of civil government. He will become a respectable and capable citizen in proportion to his infor- mation and virtue. Liberality and justice are the leading principles of our government, which as it secures liberty and property, neither makes nor suiFers religious distinctions. • No emigrant ought to stay one week in the country without .en- deavouring to procure the Constitution of the United Statep, and, at least, that of the state in which he means to reside. The Federal Constitutlrn, and those of the several states, are printed and bound together m a neat pocket volume, with the Declaradon of Indep^nd ence, and form a political Bible, well deserving the study ot every reelecting republican. The greater part of our state constitutions H«re formed soon after ar of our Lord rk arcd in the Court and then and of the United gn prince, poten- United States, in Clerk. » make oath, for irt the Constitu- ce and abjure all gnty whatever, es, held for the in the at present of to be admitted irections of the ct to establish a )n that subject : to establish an >ed on that sub- ourt such evi- acts required; the said court, Es<]. judge day of idependence of New York. ; of abode, ivhich must , he will do uire a cor- ~ _ He will > his infor- r principles iy, neither t^ithout ,en- ep, and, at tie Federal ind bound Indep^nd ot every soon aflcr HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 637 the declaration of Independence was proclaimed by Congress. Br them are regulated the internal local relations of citizens in each state ; they constitute the main guards of our freedom. The general government (whose constitution was formed by delegates from twelve states, assembled in Convention at Philadelphia, in 1787) has the sole direction of our foreign affairs, and the mutual relations of the states. The government uf the United States is administered by u President and Vice-president, elected for four years ; by a senate, of two members from each state, elected for six years ; by a house of representatives, chosen for two years, by the people ; and by judges, &c. appointed according to law. Tlie senators are elected by the states, and this feature of tlie Constitution is deemed Federal; the representatives arc elected by the people, and here the Constitution is more particularly national. In each of the states there is ago ernor and two legislative branches chosen by the people, or their representatives, according to each con • stitutifin. The governor, in each state is, by virtue of his office, com- mander in chief of the militia of the same. When the Federal Constitution was formed, it was laid before the people, who, in each state, chose a convention to adopt or reject it. It was debated, in every convention, with uncommon ardour ; and, finally, adopted in 1788. The speeches made on those occasions shed streams of light on the science of government, and its just division of of powers ; neither foreigners nor natives can read them too carefully. During the discussion of the Federal Constitution, advocates of some of its mist federative provisions were called Federalists; their oppo- nents anti-Federalist. But when it was adopted, it became the law to ail, and was in all its parts sincerely agre<'(l to by all ; those opposite terms, therefore, ceasud to be properly applicable any longer. Yet a political party seized hold of the epithet, which was merely occa- sional, and have made it perpetual. They are called Federalists to this day, without any reference to the origin of the term ; the oppo- site party are known as lle|)ublicans or Democrates, terms significant of their attachment to popular government. The FedeVal party, on the contrary, or to speak more correctly, many of their leaders, are thought to have a leaning towards aristocracy. We ought never to be tiic slaves or dupes of mere nanaes ; and it will become the duty of a good citiKen to act with one party or the other, as far as he thinks its means more honourable, and its objects more just. When the Federal party were in power, a law was passed author- izing the President of the United States to send friendly aliens out of the country, on mere suspicion, without the inte.vention of pudge «r jury 1 This is remembereu ai the Alien Act. Moreover, citizenshijp could not be then acquired without a previous residence of foarteeb years. On the 4-th of March, I SOI, a Democratic administration came iiHo poAer; President Jefferson having been chosen instead of Mr. Adams. The acts of the govermcnt soon manifested a more liberal ^irit. The foUopirg p&ssage, from Mr. J eiferson's message to Concress, Deceits her t n, 1801, had its influence on, or harmonized wHn, the eeneral opinion as to the impolicy (to say tUcleast) of the inhospitable acts which we have just nientionea: 1) 1 I. ■J' '■ I ». *!& 63S HINTS TO EMir.RANTSf. *' I cannot omit recommending a revisal of the laws on the subject of naturalization. Considering the ordinarary chmces of human life, a denial of citizenship, under a residence of fourteen years, is a denial to a great proportion of those who ask it, and controuls a oolicy pusued from their first settlement, by many of the states, and stil believed of conseqUL-nce to their prosperity, &c. &c. The constitution, indeed, has wisely provided that, for admission to certain offices of important trust, a residence shall be required sufficient to devclope character and design. But might not tiie genera! character and capabilities of a citizen be snfely communicated to every one manifesting a bona fide purpose of embarking his life and fortunes permanently with us. ?" Let us not be suspected of indulging in narrow prejudices, of inflam- ing party feelings, or saying that one set of politicians are exclusively the frieovls of aliens, anotbtir, entirely hostile ; we have given you specimens of th.' policy of eacfi. The sentiments of Mr. Jefferson, just citi'-'d, reflect great credit on his head and heart. So far, however, from inviting aliens to plunge into politics, we dissuade them from it. It is their duty to be modest o'-servers of parties and prin- ciples ; it is their part to form corrv-ct opinions, but not to meddle ; to see, but not to touch : to look on but not to iv)terf.'re, until, hav- ing been five years spectators of the busy and important movements of a nation of freemen, they may become actors in their turn, under the solemn obligation which citizensliip imposes. The source of every blessing, and itself the most valuable of all which America offers to the emigrant, is a degree of civil and political liber- ty, more ample and better secured in this republic, than any where in ilie whole world besides. The principles of liberty which are embodied in our frame of go- vernment and in our laws, branch out likewise through tvery depart- ment of society, mould our manners, and determine the character even of our domestic relations. They have the effect of producing, generally, in the deportment of individuals, who kiiovi- neither su- periors nor inferiors, a certain degree of ease and dignity that is equally removed from servility and arrogance. It is one of the prac- tical results of those principles that the poorer classes in this commu- nity are more civilized, more polite and friendly, though not so sub- mirisive, as persons of the same fv/rtuncs in Europe. They are also usually followed by impartial justice in t ;e equal distribution of family property. Hence opulence is rarely seen to accumulate on one branch, while others languish in genteel beggary. As there is no where an aristocratic establishment, the amplitude of the community is never broken up into little compartments envious and contemptuous of each other. Every man's range of occupation is extended, while every state is held worthy of respect. Honest industry no where derogates, but the facility of providing for a family is every where enlarged. Nothing is more wort^iy of regard than the contrast between the general demeanor of Europeans living here, and what is aliefred ot the same people, and others similar to them, whilst under the yoke of trans-atlantic governments. In New- York city alone, there are sup- posed to be not less than twelve thousand Irish, and the number of all other foreigners may probably be as many. Th*; other great cities of the United States have an equal proportion, according to their HINTS TO EMIGRANTS- 639 population ; and emigrants from the old world are settled, and in pro- gress of settlement, every where throughout the Union ; yet, here they are never accused of sedition or rebellion, or conspiracy against the government. They are never disarmed by a military force, and no magistrate trembles when they provide themselves with ammuni- tion. They are, indeed, among the most strenuous supporters of the government; and it is evident that a country may exist in the utmost good order, peace, and prosperity, under such a system of law as they are willing to maintain witn thi-ir lives. It is manifest, there- fore, that if the laws were in Europe what they are here, Europe need not drive her children into exile. Tlie same men who are c-dled rebels there, are esteemed and tranquil citizins hert', without having changed their nature or their sentiments. But here the law is made by the majority, for the good of the greater number ; and for this reason, it is e^'»entia]ly equal and impartial. It prohibits nothing but what is in itself morally wrong. Hence, tiiere are fewer laws, and fewer trans-gressions ; but when a real truiisgressiion happens, an olFen- ded community is always prompt to support the law ; for it then vin- dicates its own decision, and its own safety. It is often detested, because it seems to be the penalty of Providence, that inordinate power shall always corrupt the holder, and can never be possessed without being followed by such a train of evils, so much wretched- ness to those who endure, and so much depravity in those who exercisa it, that it is felt to be a forced state, and a pervcrsiun of mature. # \ i ] V ' I^# ♦"^•4 INDEX T« THE PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES, TOWNS, SEAS, RIVERS, S^c MENTIONED IN THE fOJlECOINO WORK. A. Ailsa Craig Alabama river Albany Albemarle sound Alexandria, D. C. , Ohio Allegany rirer, — — mountains Alnwick A1tamahi^ river Alum creek Amboy Amherst . Annapolis Appalachy river Appamattox river Arkansas river Arran island . Ashley river Ashtabula river Athens, Geo. , O, Atlantic ocean 28, 54, Aiibam « Auchtermonchty . Au Giftiie river Augusta, Geo. <■■ ■ ' . ' i m *^-^V Cleac .;;U-^Fear ';— — Fear jrfver — .r— HatteNs i-;-^ Look.Oat 'Olirlisle, t'Ann. ■■ .£ng Cascades in VirgHi C«tihigus creek ClHres in Virginia ^Ca'yahega elver Cayuga . . — - — - lake . Chattrin rivcR ChMiiberstiurg CbampliUQ, lake INDEX. Psge. ♦y9 113, SQ4. 77 135, 295 70 115, 294 in North 498 550 S9 56 . 540 86 110,293 421 107, 485 486 79 540 . H6 113,294 249 222 102 517 200 88 482 107, 519 105 530 445 446 499 212, 257 187 184 187 187 132, 298 2i8 la 167 483 168 449, ';55 527 105, 527 464 299 105 Charleston, Mast. . 79 , N. H. . 83 , S. C. . 196 , Va. . 339 Charles river . 79 Charley . . 221 Charlottesville . 172 Chatahuuctiy river 207, 390 Chataughque lake . 105 Chesapeake bay . 137, 141 Chesnut ridge . 309 Chester . . 255 river , 141 Chiilicethe . 423 Chillicothe district . 424 Chippaway 40O — — creek . 490 Cboptank river . 141 Cincinnati . . 361 Cincinnati district . 363 Clarksville . . 378 Clear creek, Ky. . 397 , Ohio . 428 Cleveland . . 450 Clyde river . # Firth . iQ Cfthoes falla . S5S Colchester . • 172 Columbia, district of IS^ ColuQ>bia, S.C. . 202 Compton . .70 , Litde . 70 Cunaquenesint; creek 324 Concord, N. H. . 83 , Mass. . 93 Conecuh . 390 Connecticut . 98 ■■■ " ' ' river , .91 . ! I ' j , reservation 457 Cbonedogwinet creek 298 Cenaecoch(BBgae creek 301 Cooewago bills . 296 -- '- ■■ " ' creek . , 296 Conneough^ . 469 Cooper river . , aOO Coosaw river . 200 Coshocton . 44i Cashsakia - . 55^ CoveofCorit . af2 Crartsbi;ry \ , 66 Crieir ' . .229 Cumberland river . .405 -— V-' -.»--- 21 "■ 's. 1*-' 1 INDEX. 79 83 196 339 79 221 172 2©7, 390 105 137, 141 309 255 141 425 424 40O 490 141 361 363 378 397 428 453 95 S6 555 172 152 202 70 70 324 83 93 390 s^- 98 457 298 sal 296 . 296 469 ,200 200 44i Cumbernauld Copar, Fife Dalkeith Danbury Danville Barien DaytuH Bed ham Deer rreek Deerfiild Delaware D. P«ge. 226 235 ■■ river Derby creek Detiuil Donaphadee Dover, N. H. , Del. Duwnings-own Downpiilrick Dromnre Dumblane Dumffiet Dunbar Dundee BuiMirum bay Durham, N. H. — , Enjf. Dysart 251 100 413 208 475 76 425 475 13U 114, 134,285,294 425 402 241, 248 83 136 295 248 242 228 158 224 236 241, 243 83 223 234 E. 5^ 212 66 229 .405 Eagle creek East Canada creek £a>t river Edenton Edinburgh Edisto river • Eitzabethtown, N. J. —.-—>-— ^^, Peon. ^'«^ — <«^_«. point Etk creek — *— river Etlicott's creek ^ Eofcefanoke swamp Jr|e *«^, lak« . ^Bxeter ;>.;:■- F. furfield Viikland Xlllt or Niagara ^ilisofObio 417 547 63 1S9 224, 237 200 110 296 . 293 .480 141 510 207 > 4«) 83 ,98 . 236 491 .178 Fatmouih Fayetteville Firth of Forth of Tay Fishkill Flint river Fort Maiidsiil • Niagara SchloKser -^ Williams Forth and Clyde canal Fox river Frankford Frankfort Franklinton Fredericksbnrg Fredericklown . Frencii grant Frenchlown French creek G. Galliopolia Gap Hilt - Cennestee river GeoKva . . Ge»rgia George, lake . Georgetown, Del. , D. C. — . Su C. , Va. Ky. Gerardeau German ocean Girran Gladea Penn. Oreen river Greenwich, East Gfetaa Green Gtolf Stream Gjttgatsink creek H. Hackensack river 643 r«gc. 172 185 234 236 559 207 385 496 509 293 228 393 115 397 475 158 142 358 285 141 354 295 105,517 107, 524 206 105 136 146 195 337 413 387 223 23» 307 25, 226 443 490 506 464 S6 263 3tO 412 70 219 33 434 W9 'Vt""^ '"' ' '^^' # m 1 i'l Ha<)(iani Haddington Hagarslowo . Halifax, N. C. • — ) Ei>g. . N. S. Hallowell Hamilton, Scot. , Ohio Ham jj ton HanovtT - Court House INDEX. -. Vir. Harmony Harrisburg • Harlem . Hart ion), Con. . .—, N. Y. Havre de Grace HfW Gale Herkimer HtlUburough, N. C. — , he. Hills in Connecticut Hoikhucking river H«tland purchase Hoiipoye creek . Horse neck . Housatonic river Hoyie, lake Hudson I. •■■ river Huron, lake — i. — river Illinois rivar i ' .. . "v territory -IfltdiaQa Teriitory -Ipiwich lafamla in Lake £rir J. Jackaonborough il#tiaicsr L. ]. Jitinaes ritver ■- ■, Jefiersonville Jfcrsey - . Johnstown . Jonathan creek Juniata river Katthaw^y mer K. Page. 100 224 142 189 222 W9 195 220 475 172 83 169 172 321 291 102 96 533 291 63 107, 545 189 242 99 429 512 518 102 98 213 105, 559 105 462 461 383 983 381 . 460 41 260 too 430 ISO, 502 16^,^54 Kaiihavray, Little Kansas river Kask3>kia — — river Katskill Keene Kendal ^ Keneconeck creek Kentucky . — — — ^ river Killbucks creek Kills Kilmarnock Kinderhook Kingliorn Kingston, N. J. , Upper Canada , N. Y. Kirkaldy Knoxville L. Lancaster, Penn, — , Eng. Langholm Lansingburg Laurel Hill Lebanon Leeds , Lehigh river Leicester Le Roy Letari's falls Lewistewn, Del. __ , N. Y. Lexifi^ton Linking river -^ creek LVmeiUooe ' «' Litchfield tl^Hle fails Liibarn I Lrverpool • L6l:h Ryan < tificbetby , £om6nd bills London ' . Long Island ' I^ng Reach 'Iibngtown Looisburg sound 166 ; 386 381 383 459 83 218 427 411 372, 398, 412 434 2y3 238 559 234 110 559 234 406 132, 29« 217 251 107 309 475 222 129 89 517 35S 136 503 401 412 434 359,411 99 54^ 243 214, 255 E 2^ 219 1?36 252 104, 209 . m • SI8 2119 mD£X. 196 380 383 S»S • $59 83 218 427 ♦II jys, 4.12 434 2U3 238 559 234 110 ^01 559 234 40S 132, 29fl 217 251 107 309 475 222 129 89 517 353 136 - 503 ■\ 401 412 434 359,411 99 &¥i 243 214, 255 2^ 219 236 252 104, 269 93 • 349 2V9 Lwfiiiina -Territory L«ui«ville, Geo. , Ken. Lower Canada Lumberton Lynche'v creek Lynn M. Machtas • Maditon, Georeia , Ind. T. Maine, District of Maiden Manchester, Ver. , Virg. — , Eog. — i . — , Ohio Maiillus square Maple swaiiifi Marbieheiid Marietta . Marietta district Marlborou(;h Maryland Massachusetts Mattapony river M*Connelslown Meherrin river Methven Mexicano river Miami river — of the — — bay country 45 lakes 363 Michigan, lake ' Territory ;^- . Mtchilimackinac straits Middlebury Middleton, Con. ,Pa. •«-*-——. Ken. MiHcdg^Tille Miileraburg mr»ra . liiiUoD JfiMtMippi rifer ' O - " •' — Territory •Miuonri river -, Utile S^ofaawk river Ifvhecaii Jobo's creek M«ffiit 388 385 362 377 500 186 192 80 95 264 372 95 501 86 17'2 221 359 S'i\) 192 93 344 348 89 HO 92 159 302 ldl< •229 3S8 461 470 470 363 462 462 462 86 100 296 397 208 409 ,98 551 393 390 385 386 I«5 434 219 130 645 Pag". 386 317 86 500 189 223 Moin river . M'lnongahela Moritpetlier Montreal Morgantown Morpeth Mountains in New Hampshire, 82 as 92 104 122 141 166 187 200 207 405 412 385 450 433 228 79 in Vermont — in Miissachusfctts in New York -.— in Pennsylvania -• — ——in Maryland — in Virginia iu Norili Carolina in South Carolina — ill (iporgia — - in Tennessee in Ktiniucky in Louisiana 347 Mud creek Muskingum river Muihil Mystic river N. Nanticoke river , 141 Narraganset bay . 07 Narrows at New York 56 Nashville • . 406 Natches , , 392 Natural bridge in Virginia 162 Newark, N. J. . 1 10 , O. , 475 , U. C. . 496 501 . bay , 293 Newbern , . 189 New Brunswick . 499 Newburg . 107 558 Newbury . ^^ . - 8 . ,Ky. Jilcwry PJtiWtown, L. 1. New Y«rk city 56 102 Niagara, Fort . river Nimshilleii creek Norfolk . NorthaiMpton Nurih Carolina • Bt^rwick law . — — .- cnonntain Ts'oriliailerton . North wcft Territory Norwalk Norwich Noie . . Notch Noitaway river . Notiinghain . Nova Scotia . Nase river . . O. Oakmiilgee river Occoqohan creek * Ocouee river Ogeeche river — , little Ohio river, . 335 373 Ohio company's purchase Ohio, Jitate of • Oneida Lake • • .-.' river Onondago lake • ■■ ■ ■'- . coart-hottse • -— >~~— bellow . ■"^^ salt woFkt Ontario county Otanskirk Orleans Territory • Osage river . « . Oaisconsin river • Owasca lake Oxford . ' •, P.'- ■•. • l^iotcireek . * Paisley • • ]PMnli«o soabd Ptge. 3H9 443 fi5 41S 242 269 lOl- 208 55P 4i^(} 504 445 171 93 187 301 223 384 98 99 547 S2 164 252 499 183 207 157 207 207 207 41ti 347 470 105 105 IDS 529 SS9 529 581 317 ' -Sop 986 384 105 954 492 25 IMP Pamunky rivir Paris Paiagoala PaMain river Pa^ttuma(]uo(ldy Patapsco river • — — — — creek Path head Patterson . Patucket iiver PalMXf nt river Pearl river Pedee river, big — .- , little Pbekikill Pennsylvania Penrith Perth Petersbure, Vir. Petersburg, Gee. Philadelphia Piscataqua river Pitt>borg Pitlsfield Placeniia Piatt river Poconioke river Point Pleasant Port Glasgow Portland Portaferry Port Patrick Royal Portsmouth, N. H. ,Vir.- -.«Ohio 116 Fort William Pofomac river Poughkeepsie Prtscoit PrestoD* PHnceteo ■ . Pi»videace • nver Vagt. -' H9- . 401 390 1U«) 05 141 143 235 113 73 73 ; 141 3J0 lf}2 191 .'>5» 128 218 '233 1()3 ^08 280 2'i4 82 132 314 93 499 386 141 354 20 95 248 239 24y 172 83 172 358 372 140 107 5^9 - flai '--••-^IT rlU 2ftS . 07 6T a Qiturantine groandi N. Qoeb^ng river . Qodiec . . Ctoeenstown . - .-.::,:- R. & Raisin river Kileigb . y. 5e 259 -89 500 501 'n:- # , ^. -^.li^-^.U ^ INDEX. Ttgt. \. 1 lio ■^v ♦()• .. ,, . 390 — Uh) '1 05 r ' 141 .) . 143 at5 113 73 75 • 141 ' 3J0 M lf)2 lUl A5» 128 218 233 163 208 80 2'i4 82 32 314 95 •^ 499 ' 386 141 354 • 2G • 95 248 139 249 » 172 83 172 358 • 372 14e 107 &C^ 321 -. ■■'"^ •• 21T LU 2ftS • -'- 07 OT M 9S9 -89 »■■.■¥' 'i" 500 * '■■"" -«01 ■ -ti'-rs- .i^*%;:- ■ i m Rapid! of Niagara rivir Rappaliannuck riv«r Rariton river Kny's fli!l — -Mill! UeaHing Reedy ireek Redhook Red river . Rhode Island Richmund — — — springs, Geo. Roanoke river Rorlidale Rocky river Rolling river Rome . Rgsselville . { Rutlaiid . Rye Ryabeck . . S. Sabioe river Sacket's harbour Salem, Ma!>^ ,N. J. , N. C. Salt creek Sandy. Hook Sandy river, Big '■-'-■ creek, O. , N. Y. Sandusky bay — ■- • — river Santee river . Sassafras river Savannah 35 — — _, river 31 37 Scioto river Sbfenectady . . SebnylkiU . Scrub Hill Sm islands Selkirk Sbocca lake : ■ river Stop fells Sb*Aeld Shcibyville Sbtfnamloah river Sh)|)peoBbtirg Sbipptngpoit i^iPenbraR r«ge. 490 159 293 302 . 268 132 191 559 386 69 100 48 267 183 222 455 461 412 107 413 86 102 . 559 . 386 538 80 113 189 425 55 . 412 357 . 540 461 470 461 470 192 141 205 261 52 51 205 358 425 ;»W 107 . 127 302 . 207 251 105 S24 .- 527 218 252 397 . 166 . 298 378 44^ Shrtwibury Sidling Hill Sidney, Cape Breten , Sipp>> crfek . Skeneatelesb . 105 bka SkerriiiH lights . SmithfieU Somerset South Carolina — Kingston . Sparta . . 208 Spencer . « Springfield, Mass. , O. St. Albans — Charles . — Clair, lake — Clairnville — Francis river — Hero — John's, N. F. — John's Island . — Louis — Mary's — — — — rirer Stamford Staten Island 104 Statistical table of Ohio of N.York of U. States Staunton . . Steubenville — district . Stillwater creek Stirling Stockbridge . Stony river . . ———point Stratford Strangford Sudbury . Soffield . . Soffolk Sagar creek SnUivan^s Island . - Sosquehannab river Swauwra creek Swimming^reek Swiss vineyards Symojieb* purchase ' --y T, Tache fiver t^ G47 P«g* 255 302 499 425 528 105 257 172 307 19!> 70 2(35 89 91 4.30 a(i 387 402 474 38^ <^ ^. 23 WBT MAIN STRHT WnSTn,N.Y. 14SM (716)t72*4S03 6^ ;V K ^ $48 Tarborough Tarttoh Tar river Tauntnn — rhrer Tenneswe rirer 590 Thames river Ttoker's creek Tioga river Tippicanoe river . Toliaiid . • Tury island TonesAaiita creek 509 Tratie winds . Trenton • . — bridge Troy Tonibekby river Tuitir creek Tttscarawa river . Tui( ar rock . • Tybee ii^bt-house U. United States Uf>per Canaria vo:' 48Q Urbanna. Va. . . Uiica . • "fiai' Vermillion vv9af'.'U>^i»^~. Vermont '■j ' » — -~,r^— Versailles . 400 Vincennes . • ' Virginia . Vireioia military land* ^■bMb rtt«r . iNasac. 189 428 18S 9S 87 405 405 99 450 129 SSI 100 28 511 32 128 114 107 29J 3.10 448 212 205 Waterford . 107 Watertown, N, Y. Way nesboroagh . 144 Weathersfield Wettborough • . West Canada creek Went Coast of Scotland Western 1 I .county . Weston West Union Wheeling . 172 239 White mountaini White river . . Whetstone rirer . White Woman's creek • Wi'iiamsbarg, Va. , O. Willianistown . Will's creek Wilmiagton, D.I. 135 ■,N. C Wilton Winds in the Atlantic 561 Windsor, Ver. ... 501 -— fCon. . .i, .^; 172 Windham . ".' £82 Winchester, Vir. ». ] -■ , Ken. . 461 Winnipiseogee lake, •*■ - r 85 Wiscawet . '^it^cn:! :4tl3 Worcester .«,-- — 388 Woodbridge . .:-? 162 Wftrthington 421 Y. Yankey Town • tAia ai:tflk)fr;Br«icbH«rMk 554 540 207 100 89 54» 849 90 sot 89 420 340 82 881 423 494 172 475 540 434 291 189 1{^S 82 16 M 100 172 4IS j8e «-95 89 110 475 442 Sip '^""^^mt"'- Agt. 107 554 • 540 144 «07 100 • 80 • ■ I 545 S40 90 sot • 89 420 239 340 • 82 « 881 ^ ^ , 4f3 •' 494 • 172 «■"- 475 540 • 434 136 291 ]8» 1»S '* > 82 iiii . f6 M *.- — W ,vr. 100 5U«. 172 418 *• ' ^ flC S« -I^ 95 — H.-^-,".-^ ■.-8» ■rV . lio 475 442 •K Sid "^t- ►-■*■;',«'• tflp'. l^iJ:;:- HflK: