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Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout^es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmdes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl6mentaires; I I Coloured pages/ D D i^' HIS DEATH IB Bh ^XMINST.gR A3BEy. i I f :^„ ^^ '5( ^^. '^./' -x-^ ^ i'le . d V'ii i ' f •J •« 30 fy i fl ■ t)' > »■■* ■»-» '■2 d .^ fe i> 0) c 'li sJ p '/J 1/ r 1 1 ■ ■"'i.*. U^iw.^I^iiUiiu-i ^.d < "•' ^ J6ESg5a_J.;Ji :'.„^. ■^$ THE I I I '1 I LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE ; BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE GREAT MISSIONARY'S LAST JOURNEY OF EXPLORATION IN AFRICA WITH THE PARTICULARS OF HIS DEATH AND AN ACCOUNT OP HIS fiURIAL IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY. PUBLISHED BY MAOLEAR & CO. 1874. McMASTER UNIVERSITY LIBRARY o PEEFACE. T"N the pages that follow, we have endeavoured to pre- sent to the public in a consecutive narrative, a full account of the last journey of Dr. Livingstone, the full particulars of his premature death, and the last honours paid to him by the Queen and people of Great Britain. We have had some diflS-culty in presenting the facts in a connected form, owing mainly to the miscellaneous and often contradicting sources of information from which they are drawn. Without flattering ourselves that our little work is entirely free from error, we believe it will be found as accurate as circumstances will permit. The repetition of much of the correspondence has been inevitable ; and the variations in the spelling of African proper names, whose autography is necessarily unsettled and arbitrary, have also been unavoidable. Our aim has been to give to our readers all the infor- mation we could gather regarding the wonderful man whose death has been deplored, we may almost venture to say^ by the entire race of man. > ly PREFACE. As supplementary to the work we have inserted in Appendices a concise account of previous journeys of exploration in Africa by earlier travellers, and also a full exposition of a new expedition undertaken jointly by the N. Y. Herald and the London Daily Telegraph under the command of Mr. Stanley, to confirm and complete the discoveries of the lamented Livingstone. August, 1874. #, % . Map of Livingstone's Later Discoveries. Til L iVRS OF LIVTNGSTCNE. '^t^m,. •^Z^ |i «HI»BA« €?^'~ n.ujri ji ►"1. h., • i nf < ,.,i . ■ir;. 'ri' was • * ' ' tliU St n (tl .Ui' Liviiigi^Une had for its olvjeot •iit1ovatioii of the h.^ad- ! rivcr« which How from the- ht.'iglit.s of tho Nilo liowirig i-o the ruirth ; i\ Oon- thc ZjindHHi to the east. Upon the ..ttis- (■ th») I'd geographi'iul ine.4?-)'ns h*^; diix'Otion in whi^-h 'on.v- V ught t' l-^e made. Tho iiiHi 'itly to settle the course of the :',4.'l aftcrward.y Lotak<. moasuros ) »n of tho slftve-trade, and the opMiing up '■ ■< HTid Christianity. Dr. i if Zanzihar m March, 18 GO, ', ("fuirted from Mikip.dim Bay ;.s oxi. edition consisted of twelve Se- who were aftei'wanJs seut back to •ni Johanna, of tl'.o C<.»mort) Islands . aftf>rward.s dt'serted him, and {amh. i). thivc «M--. (h-nth ; '-even liberated slaves iy. canit'ls, tliree buffaloes, two )it!rae.3*«.rt 1 ul)»f.»<«H»BS Ci— . BliHft*,|E01.Q. '■'-':? .y^\ ■-^»(>, '■'\ K/ 1 .^. vf!' i.M>fj22r'?( Sii ...»>_. ;»1ap of Liviijystgno's Later Discoveries. THE LAST TEAES OF LIVIE'GSTOlinE. * .ie&- THE last expedition of Dr. Livingstone had for its object the thorough and complete exploration of the head- waters of the great rivers which flow from the heights of Central Africa, viz., the Nile flowing to the north ; the Con- go, to the west, and the Zambesi to the east. Upon the satis- factory solution of the disputed geographical questions involved, depended, of course, the direction in which com- merce and missionary effort ought to be made. The first thing to be done was evidently to settle the course of the great highways to the sea, and afterwards to take measures for the suppression of the slave-trade, and the opening up of the country to civilization and Christianity. Dr. Livingstone left the island of Zanzibar in March, 1866, and on the 7th of April, he departed from Mikindini Bay for the interior. His expedition consisted of twelve Se- poys from Bombay, who were afterwards sent back to the coast; nine men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands off" Hindostan, and these afterwards deserted him, and spread a false report of his death ; seven liberated slaves and two Zambesi men, six camels, three buffaloes, two mules, and three donkeys. Reaching Lake Tanganyika at its southern end, he crossed Marangu, and came to Lake Moero. He followed this lake to its southern end, and 10 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. found that a river called Luapula entered it from the south. He was thus on the direct course of the great water-system, and he therefore followed this river till he found it issuing from another lake, the Bangweolo, which is of about the same size as Tanganyika, but of a rectan- gular form, and lying east and west instead of north and south. A number of rivers flow into this lake, but far the largest is the Chambezi. There was a similarity in name between this river and the Zambesi, but he was quite sat- isfied that the two rivers had no connexion, as he had traced the Chambezi running north through three degrees of latitude. And now, we may go back to some of the troubles which befell the intrepid explorer. During the early part of the journey, the expedition travelled up the Rovuma on its left bank — a route full of difficulties. In order to make a path for their beasts of burden, espe- cially the camels, Livingstone and his men were compelled to ply their axes through dense, and almost impassable jungles. This hard work was distasteful to the Sepoys and the Johanna men, and they very soon began to murmur. At every step they invented pretexts for impeding the advance of the expedition. Not content with this, they soon began to ill-treat the animals until not one was left alive. Finding that Livingstone was not induced to re- trace his steps by this means, they incited the natives against him by charging him with strange practices. As this conspiracy against the doctor was likely to prove a ser- ious danger, he determined to send the Sepoys back to the coast, which he did, after furnishing them with the means THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 11 of subsistence. These fellows were intended as a body- guard to the explorer, and were armed with Enfield rifles for that purpose by the Bombay government. A more worthless escort could hardly be imagined. They were too lazy to carry their own guns, impressing any boy or woman they met to carry them either by threats or pro- mises, neither of which they had any right to make or power to fulfil. An hour's march would knock them up, and then they would throw themselves upon the ground, and mourn over their cruel fate, or plot some new mischief against the white man. When they were got rid of, the Johanna men took their innings, and were guilty of a worse crime soon afterwards. The party arrived on the 18th of July, 1866, at a village belonging to a chief of the Mahiyau. It is situated " about eight days' march south of the Rovuma overlooking the water-shed of Lake Nyassa." Two of the liberated slaves next deserted him, but pressing onward he arrived at the country of Mponda, a chief living near Lake Nyassa. Here another defection took place which must have touched Livingstone more keenly. Wakotani, whom the doctor had taken to Bom- bay, and educated, asked for his discharge, forging several plausible lies to excuse his request. Livingstone was not deceived but, with his usual generosity, gave him ample means of subsistence, and even writing paper to use if he should ever be disposed to communicate with hiir. The faithless Wakotani almost succeeded in enticing Chumat another prot^g^ of the doctor's to leave the service, but ultimately without success, Leaving this country, Living- 12 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. » stone next proceeded to the southern extremity of Lake Nyassa. The village at which they stopped, belonged to a Babisa chief, whom the traveller cured of a skin disease. While here, a half-caste Arab came in with a story that the Ma-Zitu had plundered him at a place at least one hundred and fifty miles away. No one knew better than Mousa, the leader of the Johanna men, that this story was false, but it fumisi. '^d him and his band with a new reason for going back to the coast. He accordingly went to Living- stone, and told the story with such embellishments as his fancy and power of invention suggested. Livingstone asked him if he believed the tale ; to which he replied that he did, saying — " he tells me true, true. I ask him good, and he tell me true, true." The doctor knew better, for the Ma-Zitu never do things by halves, and to say nothing of the topo- graphical difficulty in the way, it was certain that if they had robbed the Arab, they would also have murdered him. The Babisa chief at once pronounced the story a pure invention, because, as he said, if the Ma-Zitu had been in the vicinity, he should have heard it soon enough. From this time, however, Livingstone had no peace from the Johanna men. Mousa, although he knew perfectly well that the Arab's tale was false, chose to simulate great terror of the Ma-Zitu. He cried out to the doctor : " I no want to go to Ma-Zitu. I no want Ma-Zitu to kill me. I want to see my father, my mother, my child in Johan- na," &c. The explorer protested that he did not want the Ma-Zitu to kill him either, and that as Mousa was il THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 18 Lake ged to lisease. Y that ,st one er than ry was reason Living- s as his le asked t he did, , and he M.a-Zitu tie topo- fc if they Lurdered story a litu had enough. ,ce from lerfectly ,te great "I no kill me. Johan- lot want )usa was m afraid of them, he would not go near them, but go straight west till he cleared the track in which they moved. Mousa did not seem satisfied ; indeed, he did not intend to be, and as soon as Livingstone started westward, he and the rest of the Johanna men deserted in a body. Mousa's conduct was less excusable than that of his com- rades ; he had been of Livingstone's party on the Zam- besi for two years, and had been treated with that fatherly tenderness and consideration which endeared the traveller to all his dependents. In his just resentment at the ingratitude of these men, Livingstone states that he was at first inclined to shoot Mousa and another of the ringleaders, but he rejoiced afterwards that he had not stained his hands with their blood. There is no doubt that they well deserved death for their treachery, not merely at the desertion, but long previously. We need not repeat the '* lie with circumstance " which they told when they reached the coast. As liars they were cer- tainly no mean proficients, and, for a time, they actually deluded some of the acutest of Englishmen into the belief that Livingstone had really been murdered by natives before the eyes of Mousa and his false comrades. A few days after the Johanna gang left, another of the party [Came to express his fears of the Ma-Zitu, but, as Mr. [Stanley says, Livingstone soon " shut him up" by forbid- ', ding him to mention the tribe again. It was only by native help that he was enabled to get through his diffi- iculties ; without it he must have sunk under the obsta- [cles in his path. " Fortunately," as the doctor says with t .■ 14 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. unction, " I was in a country now, after leaving the shores of the Nyassa, where the feet of the slave-trader had not trodden. It was a new and virgin land, and of course, as I have always found it in such cases, the natives were really good and hospitable, and for very small portions of cloth my baggage was conveyed from village to village by them." In many other ways the traveller in his extremity was kindly treated by the undefiled and unspoiled natives. In December, 1866, Livingstone entered a country which had been desolated by the dreaded Ma-Zitu,and his party had the greatest difficultj' in obtaining food enough to keep them alive. Desertions which, under these circum- stances, were more excusable than those of the Johanna men, took place from time to time, and sometimes the de- linquents took with them the doctor's clothes and linen. Misfortunes of various kinds attended him during the time he traversed the countries from Babisa to Londa, which lies west of Tanganyika and north of Bangweolo. In the Londa country he encountered the celebrated Ca- zembe, madpi known to Europeans first bv a Portuguese traveller, Dr. Lacerda. He appears to have been a fine, stalwart man of singular intelligence. In a strange sort of state attire, the king received Livingstone at the head of his chiefs and body guards. Mr. Stanley thus describes this extraordinary court ceremonial as he heard it from the lips of the doctor himself: — " A chief who had been deputed by the king and elders to find out all about the white man, then stood up before the assembly and in a^ loyd voice ^ave the result of the inquiry he had instituted, »-.?a THE LAST YEABS OF LIVINGSTONE. 15 le shores had not )f course, Lves were ortions of dllage by extremity 3d natives. itry which I his party enough to sse circum- le Johanna oies the de- 8 and linen. during the 1 to Londa, Bangweolo. [ebrated Ca- Portuguese been a fine, |strange sort at the head tus describes learditfrom rho had been lall about the iblv and in a, instituted, He had heard the white man had come to look for waters, for rivers and seas. Though he did not understand what the white man could want with such things he had no doubt that the object was good. Then Cazembe asked what the doctor proposed doing, and where he thought of going. The doctor replied that he had thought of going south, as he had heard of lakes and rivers being in that direction. Cazembe asked : 'What can you want to go there for? The water is close here. There is plenty of large water in this neigh- bourhood.' Before breaking up the assembly, Cazembe gav3 orders to let the white man go where he would through his country, undisturbed and unmolested. He was the first Englishman he had seen, he said, and he liked him." Cazembe evidently could not understand how any one could be chimerical enough to search for more water when he had plenty and to spare where he then was. The inter- I view with the queen must have been very amusing. Like her husband, she was tall in person and handsome aiso; but jshe had evidencly, like her more civilized sisters, a desire make a sensation. Her eftbrts at the toilette, however, )roved too much for Livingstone's keen sense of the hidicrous, and he could not help laughing in the royal ^presence. His laugh proved contagious, and her majesty md her maids of honour laughed also. It was previous his reception by Cazembe that the explorer first sf.w the Chambezi in the Londa country. The similarity of le name of this river apd the ^Zambesi at first led liv* IP' i I I , ! . i ' ii 16 THE LAST TEAES OF LIVINGSTONE. ingstone astray, and therefore be did not pay much atten- tion to it, as he regarded the former simply as the head- waters of the latter. From the beginning of 1867 until he arrived atUjiji in March, 1869, he was engaged for the most part in correcting the errors of previous tmvellers, especially the" Portuguese, who had caused considerable confusion by speaking of the two rivers as if they were identical. In exposing these errors, Livingstone traversed and re -traversed the valley of the Chambezi until he found it emptying itself into Lake Bangweolo — its direction be- ing north and west. It was, therefore, clearly shown that Chambezi was a distinct river from the Zambesi, and, as the traveller contended, none other than the most south- erly feeder of the Nile The real name of the Zambesi, moreover, he found to be Dombazi. North-west of Ca- zembe's country, the traveller came to a lake called Liemba by the natives, but which was ascertained to be the lower end of Tanganyika, in latitude nine degrees | south. Its entire length, therefore, would be 560 geogra- phical miles. We aie now in a position to consider the conclusions to which Livingstone came regarding the water-svstem. These were in brief, that the lake and river-system beginning with Tanganyika and passing through the Victoria and Albert Nyanza, were not the ul- timate sources of the Nile; and that the parallel system from | the Chambezi was the true river. The remaining years| of Dr. Livingstone's life were spent in verifying his viewj of the hydrography of Central Africa. We may here in- sert the lucid explanation Stanley obtained from Living! THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 17 stone, premising that the name Webb's River was substi- tuted for the Lualaba — ^the name being given in honour of Livingstone's old friend of Newstead Abbey. "It is hoped that the most superficial reader, as well as the student of j geography will comprehend this grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's River. To assist him, let him I procure a map of Africa, by Keith Johnston, embracing the latest discoveries. Two degrees south of the Tangan- yika, and two degrees west, let him draw the outlines of la lake, its greatest length from east to west, and let him [call it Bangweolo. One degree or thereabout to the north- west, let him sketch the outlines of another but smaller lake, and call it Moero ; a degree again north of Moero, mother lake of similar size, and call it Kamo^ondo, and still a degree north of Kamolondo, another lake, large and yet of undefined limits, which, in the absence of any specific term, we wiU call the Nameless Lake. Then [et him connect these several lakes by a river called after lifferent names. Thus, the main feeder of Bangweolo, the )hambezi ; the river which issues out of Bangweolo, and ms into Moero, the Luapula ; the river connecting Moero rith Kamolondo, Webb's River ; that which runs from kamolondo into the Nameless Lake northward, Lualaba; id let him write in bold letters over the rivers Cham- 5zi, Luapula, Webb's River, and the Lualaba the * Nile,' )r these are aU one and the same river. Again, west of [oero Lake, about one degree or thereabouts, another rge lake may be placed on his map, with a river ron- ig diagonally across to meet the Lualaba north of Lake 18 THE LAST TEARS OP LIVINOSTONE. Kamolondo. This new lake is Lake Lincoln, and the river is the Lomami River, the confluence of which with the Lualaba is between Kamolondo and the Nameless Lake. Taken altogether, the reader may be said to have a very fair idea of what Dr. Livingstone has been doing these long years, and what additions he has made to the study of African geography. That this river, d tinguised under several titles, flowing from one lake into another in a northerly direction, with all its crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile, the true Nile, the doctor has not the least doubt. For a long time he did doubt, because of its deep bends and curves — west, and south-west even — but having traced it through its headwaters, the Chambezi, through seven degrees of latitude — that is, from latitude eleven degrees south to a little north of four degrees south — he has been compelled to come to the conclusion that it can be no other river than the Nile. He at first thought it was the Congo, but he afterwards found that the source of this great river was the Kasai and the Quango, two rivers which rise, as might be expected, on the western side of the Nile water-shed in about the latitude of Bangweolo. That the Lualaba cannot be the ^ Congo would seem evident from its great volume, it being broader and much deeper than the Mississippi; and, in addition, it has a steady northward course. It is prob- able, Livingstone thinks, that this river may turn out to be i what is known as Petherick's branch of the White Nile.? The entire question will eventually turn on the compara- THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 19 tive altitudes of the two rivers. Meanwhile, the other English geographers look upon Livingstone's theory as untenable. At the meeting of the Geographical Society addressed by Stanley, the principal objectors were Col. Grant and Consul Petherick. The former urged that, at that time, there were still 1000 miles unexplored by Livingstone, and that he had adopted his conclusions too hastily ; that in this distance there are Speke's Mountains of the Moon, and the great bend to the west of the Nile at seven degrees, eight minutes, north latitude. There are also 300 miles of longitude between the two positions ; besides which Schweinfurth, the botanist,visited the source of the Gazal, and found it north of the equator and not» as Livingstone supposes it, eleven degrees south of it, Consul Petherick, the first Englishman who had navigated the Bahr-il-Gazal, also thought the explorer mistaken. He believed that there must be a water-shed, running east and west separate from that of the Gazal ; and that the waters that Livingstone was pursuing northward must find some other outlet — where he did not profess to [Bay. To these objections Mr. Stanley replied at length, [dwelling particularly on the fact that though the objectors lenied that this mighty water-system was a feeder of the file, they could not tell what became of it. " If the Nile las not been discovered," said he, " what, let me ask, las been discovered ? What is that great and mighty fiver, the Lualaba? Where does it go to? Does it go ito a lake, as Sir Henry Rawlinson supposes ? What / le Lualaba flow into a lake ! — ^into a marsh I — ^into Sk *•■*"} 20 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. ! I swamp ! Why, you might just as well say that the Mississippi flows into a swamp ! " He further urged that the rivers flowing from Tanganyika were insignificant compared with the Lualaba, which, at some places, is from three to five miles broad. " If the Lualaba enters a swamp, where does the water go to ? " The first letter received during this period from Livingstone was written from Bemba in the Lobemba Country S. S. W. o^ Tan- ganyika. It was dated February the 2nd, 1867, and effectually disposed of the lying story of the Johanna men. It was in the Lobisa country immediately to the south of Lobemba that Livingstone breathed his last. The general features of both districts are described in this letter. The former it appears to consist mainly of a plateau six thousand six hundred feet above the level of the sea, and is the water-shed of the Chambezi of which we have already spoken and the various streams called Loangwa which flow in a south-easterly direction into Lake Nyassa. In the same communication he explains that he could not send any letters, after he left Nyassa till he reached Bemba, where he had found a party of black Arab slave-traders from Bagamoyo near Zanzibar. This next letter was dated the 8th of July, 1868, from Lake Bangweolo. The interval had been spent, as we have already shewn, in examining thu course of the Chambezi and its tributaries. When he fully explored this district, including Lake Moero, he returned by Cazembe's country. It was here that he found an old white-bearded half-caste named Mohammed ben Salib, THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINOSTONE. 11 who was kept as a kind of prisoner at large by the king because of certain suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay in his country. Through Livingsttme's influence Mohammed ben Salib obtained his release. On the road to Ujiji he had bitter cause to regret having exerted himself in the half-caste's behalf. He turned out to be a most ungrateful wretch, who poisoned the minds of the doctor's few followers and ingratiated himself in their favour by selling the favours of his concubines to them, thus reducing them to a kind of bondage under him. From the day he had * Le vile old man in his company manifold and bitter misfortunes followed the doctor up to [his arrival in Ujiji, in March, 1869. He remained at this place till the end of June, 1869 lit was during this time that he wrote the last letters Ireceived from him, prior to the return of the Herald ex- Ipedition. In a letter dated the 30th of May, addressed to )r. Kirk, he complains of the bad conduct of the buffalo- river sent him, and asks for a supply of cloth, beads and leeting, and a few pairs of shoes. What he proposed to iccomplish in the Tanganyika district and west of it, he lus states : " As to the work to be done by me, it is only connect the sources which I have discovered from ^ve hundred to seven hundred miles south of Speke and iker's, with their Nile. The volume of water which )ws north from lat. 12° S. is so large, I suspect I have 3n working at the sources of tEe Congo, as well as the lile." (In this, as we have seen, he afterwards found it he was mistaken.) " I have to go down the Msteni i i'SJ \ ' '11 M : 22 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. line of drainage to Baker's turning-point. Tanganyika, Nzige Chowambe (Baker's ?) are one water, and the head of it is three hundred miles south of this. The western and central lines of drainage converge into an unvisited lake west or south-west of this. The out-flow of this, whether to the Congo or the Nile, I have to ascertain. The people west of this, called Manyema, are canibals, if the Arabs speak truly. I may have to go there first, and down Tanganyika, if I come out uneaten, and find my new squad from Zanzibar. I earnestly hope that you wiU do what you can to help me with the goods and men. £400 to be sent by Mr. Young, must surely have come to you through Fleming & Co."* When this letter was read before the Royal Geographical Society, Sir Roderick Murchison remarked, that " if Livingstone should be supplied with carriers and provisions ; he will, I doubt not, follow these j waters, and thus being led on, perhaps, to the Congo, wf may be cnce more subjected to a long and anxious period! of suspense." This, unfortunately, proved to be the casej and Sir Roderick's devotion to his friend was unrewarded I by the tidings of his safety, for he died before news camel that the enterprise of Mr. Gordon Bennett, and the energy] and pluck of Stanley, had been crowned with success. As soon as Livingstone had recovered strength, at the] end of June, 1869, he again started westward. Taking al dhow at XJjiji, he crossed over to Uguhha, on the westemj shore. It had been his intention to sail round Tanganyika * Thifl extract appears in another part of this volume ; but it was necesj sary to repeat it here in order to make the narrative consecutive and coal plete. THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 23 but he found that the Arabs were so bent on pkindering him that he was compelled to abandon the idea. The result of this last and most important of his expeditions was the discovery of a series of lakes of great size, con- nected by a large river, called by different names as it flowed from one lake into another. From Uguhha he joumeyed in company with a party of traders about sixty miles up Tanganyika, and then struck into the interior in a north-westerly direction, for the country of the Man- yema or Manyuema. Livingstone's design was to trace the river which flowed into Lake Bangweolo as the Cham- bezi, and out of it as the Luapula, in its northward course. He was persuaded that, in doing so, he was on the central line of drainage of the Great Nile Valley. It was known to him that, in issuing from Ljike Moero, the river was called the Lualaba (Webb's River), and on forming a third lake, Kamolondo, became again a great river-lake itself, studded with many islands. On this occasion he struck the great stream at the laige bend made by its flowing west about one hundred and twenty miles, and then sweeping round to the north. Owing to recent illness the indefa- tigable traveller was only able to accomplish two hours a day. They were now ;^in July) approaching Bambarre, where Moenekusa, the most intelligent of the Manyema chiefs resided. Two days before their arrival there, how- ever, they met a company of Ujiji traders, with 18,000 pounds weight of ivory, which they had bought for a mere trifle in coarse copper bracelets and beads, The slaves of this party gave a very unfavourable account of the Man- i lit! i m w 24 THE LAST TEABS OF LIVINOSTONE. ! ( ! i ! I yema, and they agreed with the Arabs that they were bad and cannibals into the bargain. This, however, as Living- stone said, was only one side of the story. Proceeding west of Bambarre,so as to embark on the Lualaba, he went down the Luamo, a stream about 150 yards wide, rising in the mountains opposite Ujiji, and across the great bend already spoken of. The people had been badly treated by the armed slaves just spoken of, and unfortunately regarded Living- stone as of the same tribe. In one of his despatches he says : — " Africans are not generally unreasonable, though smart- ing under wrongs, if you can fairly make them unaerstand your claim to innocence, and do not appear as having your * back up.* " On this occasion, however, it was very diffi- cult to convince them, and the women especially were particularly positive. When one lady was asked to look at Livingstone's colour as a proof that he could not be the head-trader she supposed him to be, she failed to be con- vinced, and exclaimed, " Then you must be his father.' As for the men, the only harm they did was to turn out armed, and shew the party out of the district. The latter returned to Bambarre, and then with their friend Muha- mad Bogharit, and his trading party already mentioned, started due north, Muhamad to buy ivory, and Livingstone to reach another part of the Lualaba and obtain a canoe. When he reached that broad, lacustrine river, he found its crooks and bends very confusing. At one time it flowed northward, then westward, and occasionally southward The country here is described as very beautiful, but ex- ceedingly difficult to travel. As this portion of Living* THE LAST YEABS OP LITINGSTONE. 25 stone's journey led to very serious results shortly after, we may quote from his despatch to Lord Granville, dated November 15th, 1870, but only delivered at the Foreign Office by Mr. Stanley on the 1st of August, 1872, a pas- sage which gives a graphic description of the kind of country through which he had to pass : — " The mountains of light gray granite stand like islands in new red sandstone, and mountain and valley are all clad in a mantle of different shades of green. The vegeta- tion is indescribably rank. Through the grass — if grass it can be called, which is over half an inch in diameter in the stalk and from ten to twelve feet high — nothing but elephants can walk. The leaves of this megatherium grass are armed with minute spikes, which, as we worm our way along elephant walks, rub disagreeably on the side of the face where the gun is held, and the hand is made sore by fending it off on the other side for hours. The rains were fairly set in by November; and in the mornings, or after a shower, these leaves were loaded with moisture which wet us to the bone. The valleys are deeply undu- lating, and in each innumerable dells have to be crossed. There may be only a thread of water at the bottom, but the mud, mire or (Scottic^) " glaur " is grievous ; thirty or forty yards of the path on each side of the stream are worked by the feet of passengers into an adhesive com- pound. By placing a foot on each side of the narrow way one may waddle a little distance along, but the rank crop of grasses, gingers and bushes cannot spare the few inches of soil required for the side of the foot, and down he comes m i! I U -l i 26 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. into the slough. The path often runs along the bed of the rivulet for sixty or more yards, as if he who first cut it out went that distance seeking for a part of the forest less dense for his axe. In other cases the muale palm, from which here, as in Madagascar, grass-cloth is woven and called by the same name, " lamba," has taken posses- sion of the valley. The leaf stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm, fall off and block up all passage save by a path made and mixed up by the feet of elephants and buffaloes; the slough therein is groan-compelling and deep. " Every now and then the traders, with rueful faces, stand panting ; the sweat <,rickles down my face, and I suppose that I look as grim as they, though I try to cheer them with the hope that good prices will reward them at the coast for ivory obtained with so much toil. In some cases the subsoil has given way beneath the elephant's enormous weight, the deep hole is filled with mud, and one, taking it all to be about calf deep, steps in to the top of the thigh and fiops on to a seat soft enough, but not liJ!xurious ; a merry laugh relaxes the facial muscles — though I have no other reason for it than than it is bet- ter to laugh than to cry." Some of the many rivers flowing into the Lualaba are crossed by the singular means of a vegetable bridge. This is entirely natural in its construction, and consists of a tangled mass of thick grass, whose blades form a kind of mat over the surface of the stream. In the shallower places, the water-lily and lotus forms part of it. Crossing on one of these bridges is like wading in deep snow. The THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 27 foot has to be lifted above the mass and planted on the next verdant spot, the leg sinks up to the knee, and the hole is immediately filled with water. Occasionally there are deep holes the bottom of which could not be reached by a stick six feet long. The name given to this species of bridge by the Manyema is very significant of its nature, " as if he who first coined it was gasping for breath after plunging over a mile of it." Here and there over «he Manyema district are large belts of the "forest primeval," through which the sun scarcely penetrates. In addition to the huge trees, there are climbing plants of all sizes. Travelling in these shady woods is very agreeable. On the summit of the trees are vast numbers of parrots and guinea fowls inaccessible to the shot of the rifleman. Livingstone states that he has heard gorillas, called " sokos" by the natives, growling some fifty yards off but never saw one. Their nests, or " houses," as the natives call them, are very poorly constructed, and display none of the tasteful architecture of many birds and even insects. It was difficult to ascertain exactly the opinion of the natives regarding this Darwinian approach to man, hui they were agreed in calling him a fool for sitting out in the rain, with his arms over his head, when he had a house to go into for shelter. The trying nature of the travel in these districts began to tell upon Livingstone. Plunging into mud-holes and crossing vegetable bridges, the frequent wettings and the bad water, produced symptoms of cholera and, worse perhaps than that, ulcers in the feet. To an energetic and 1 ' ■ : if f' m m I ^1 28 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. earnest man, the delay of six months caused by these aihnents must have been extremely trying. The des- patch already quoted was written during the time of his enforced idleness at Bambarre. It appears that, at this time, thpre was a sort of California fever, not for gold, but for ivory, in this district, and the party were overtaken by no less than 600 armed men in search of tusks. It is to these people Livingstone aUudes in this passage : — " I had already, in this journey, two severe lessons that travelling in an unhealthy climate in the rainy season is killing work. By getting drenched to the skin once too often in Marunga, I had pneumonia, the iUness to which I have referred, and that was worse than ten fevers — that is fevers treated by our medicine and not by the dii-t sup- plied to Bishop Mackenzie at the Cape as the same. Besides being unwilling to bear the new comers company, I feared that by further exposure in the rains the weak- ness might result in something worse." He finally went into winter quarters on the 7th of February. He was without medicine, and yet he says, in his quiet uncom- plaining fashion, that rest, shelter, boiling all the water he used, and a new potato found among the natives, acted as restoratives and he was soon all right. Meanwhile the rains continued on into July, in which month fifty-eight inches fell. The mud £rom the clay soil was, to use Livingstone's expressive word, "awful," and even the ardent seekers after ivory were laid up. The next trouble v'as that, when ready to start, he could not induce his i>Hexxdiintd to shift their quarters. During these months THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 29 they had been lodged by slave-women whose husbands were engaged in the ivory trade, and they were not disposed to leave their comfortable resting places. Some of them pretended to be afraid of entering a canoe, so Livingstone forbore to buy one. Others simulated a fear of the neighbouring peoples who, thej' were sure, were cannibals. Like the guests invited to the marriage feast in the Gospel, "they all, with one consent, began to make excuse." At last, with that iron strength of purpose which had carried him through thirty years of labour in Africa, the brave man started forth with only three attendants. He took a north-westerly direction by mis- take, not knowing that the river flowed west by south ; but, as he plaintively remarks, " no one could tell me any- thing about it." They had not gone far when, from two causes, his expedition was temporarily suspended. ' Muha- mad's party had penetrated further in the forest than Livingstone, and had met with hostile demonstrations from Balegga who dwelt in the mountains. Lx addition to this, the trading party found that some of the rivers were not fordable, and that it was very difficult to find means of crossing them. This was not in itself a promis- ing prospect, but Livingstone's perseverance might have overcome the obstacles which daunted Muhamad, but for the ulcerous sores on his feet. Wading in the mud had done its work, and the disabled explorer limped back to Bambarre, to abide there during half-a-year's enforced rest. The ulcers were so painful as to prevent sleep, and if he ventured] to put his foot to the ground, a discharge H: in Si ill 30 THE LAST YEARS OF LtVIKGSToNE. of matter, mingled with blood, immediately took place. These sores Livingstone supposes to be allied to fevers, and he states that he has often heard the wailing of poor slaves who were afflicted with ulcers that had eaten even to the bone. During the time he had been away the traveller had lived in "what may be called theTipperary of Manyema," the country, as he was informed, of canni- balism, and this is what he has to say about them : — "They are certainly a bloody people among themselves. But they are very far from being in appearance like the ugly negroes on the West Coast. Finely formed heads are com- mon, and generally the men and women are vastly superior to the slaves of Zanzibar and elsewhere. We must go deeper than phrenology to account for their low moral tone. If they are cannibals they are not ostentatiously so. The neighbouring tribes all assert that they are man- eaters, and they themselves laughingly admit the charge. But they like to impose on the credulous, and they showed the skull oi a recent victim to horrify one of my people. I found it to be the skull of a gorilla, or soko — the first I knew of its existence here — and this they do eat. Tf I had believed a tenth of what I heard from traders, I might never have entered the country. Their people told tales with shocking circumstantiality, as if of eye- witnesses, that could not be committed to paper, or even spoken about beneath the breath. Indeed, one wishes them to vanish from memory. But fortunately I was never frightened in infancy with 'bogie,' and am not liable to attacks of what may almost be called ' bogie-phobia ; ' THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINQSTOlfE. 31 for the patient, in a paroxysm, believes everything horri- ble, if only it be ascribed to the possessor of a black skin." Yet Livingstone was not satisfied after all, as to the truth or falsehood of the charge of cannibalism. He had offered goods sufficient to tempt any of them to take him to see a cannibal feast, without success. On the whole, he was disposed to return a verdict of "not proven." When intelligence of the Young Search Expedition reached him, he despatched a note to the Foreign Secretary in re- ference to Moosa and the Johanna men. We are perhaps anticipating events, but it may be as well to give Living- stone's opinion of these fellows before continuing the narrative. He expresses some surprise that the story had obtained any credence. " Had," he continues, "the low tono of morality among the East African Mohammedans been known, Moosa's tale would have received but little atten- tion. Moosa is perhaps a little better than the average [low class Moslem, but all are notorious for falsehood and heartlessness." He then proceeds to give instances of the unfeeling character of these men, and contrasts their de- graded moral character with the truthful and humane [features in the character of Makololo. "All my difficul- |ties," he says, in another place, " have arisen from having low-class Moslems, or those who had been so before they [were captured. Even the better class cannot be trusted." As soon as Livingstone was able to leave Bambarre, he itarted again for the Lualaba, following amidst many lifficulties, the course of that noble, but tortuous river, mtil it emptied itself into the long and narrow lake of 1 i' III THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINaSTONfl. Kamolondo (or Ulenge). During its course the river va- ries from one to three miles in breadth. From that point, he traced it back again, with his wonted pertinacity of purpose, in a southerly direction, to the point where he had seen it issue from lake Moero. Of the Moero valley, Livingstone speaks in glowing terms. Shut in on all sides by mountains, clad in all the rich colouring of tropi- cal vegetation, this lovely lake discharges its waters through a deep gorge, torn through the bosom of the lofty hills. The vast volume of water rushes impetuously through the chasm with the roar of a cataract, until it reaches an ampler and deeper bed in which it flows by many a sinuous bend to almost every point of the com- pass, to the lake of Kamalondo. It was at this time, that Livingstone gave the Lualaba the name of Webb's river, in honour of his old friend, to distinguish it from other streams bearing the same name. To the south-west of Kamalondo he found another lake of considerable size, called by the natives Chebungo. To this wat^r the name was given of Lake Lincoln, in honour of the President of the United States, whose emancipation proclamation had struck Livingstone with profound admiration. Again entering Webb's river from the south-west end, a little above Kamalondo, is another large river Lufira. The streams, however, were so numerous, that Living- stone's map could not indicate any but the chief and most important ones. Following the Lualaba through all its curves to 4° S., he came to another large lake called the Unknown Lake. This was the furthermost point, and THE LAST YEASB OF LIYINGSTOmL ss he was obliged to return by a toilsome journey to Ujiji of 600 miles. The cause of this abrupt termination of the expedition was, first, continued ill-health, but chiefly the rascally conduct of his attendants. In the first place, Ludha had deceived him by sending Banian slaves instead of Zanzibar freemen. The leaders of these men, Shereef and Awathe were extortioners to begin with, and the en- tire gang did all they could to embarrass Livinf^^tone, impede his progress, and baffle his designs. It was the lies which these men persistently and positively told, that first prejudiced the traveller against Dr. Kirk, and pre- pared him to accept any story told against the Consul The Banians swore that the latter had told them to force Living- stone back, and on no account to go forward. By working on their fears, aided materially by the efforts of his friend Muhamad Boghant, he had forced them to proceed ; but had it not been for the ivory-trader, " they would have gained their point by sheer brazen-faced falsehood." The last are Livingstone's words ; yet, it would appear from the lately published letter to Mr. John Livingstone, writ- ten in 1872, that by some means or other, the doctor had been persuaded to believe the " falsehood" by that time. These men were fearfril cowards ; they were constantly quaking with fear lest they should be killed and eaten by the Manyema. At length, as we have already seen, they refused to go on from Bambarre, and left the traveller with only three attendants. They told the most outrageous falsehoods, and aided by the Arabs, poisoned the minds of the natives by insinuating that Livingstone " wanted nei- ,.; 34 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINQSTONB. ther ivory nor slaves, but a canoiB to kill Manyema." By slanders like this the Arabs succeeded in getting nine ca- noes, while Livingstone could not purchase one. *' But four days below this part," he proceeds to say, " narrows occur in which the mighty river is compressed by rocks, which jut in, not opposite to each other, but alternately ; and the water, rushing round the promontories, forms ter- rible whirlpools which overturned one of the canoes, and so terrified the whole party that by deceit preceded me, that they returned without ever thinking of dragging the canoes past the difficulty. This I should have done to gain the confluence of the Lomame, some fifty miles below, and thence ascend through Lake Lincoln to the ancient fountains beyond the copper mines of Katanga ; and this would nearly finish my geographical work. But it was so probable that the dyke which forms the narrows would be prolonged across the country into Lomame, that I had to turn towards this great river considerably above the narrows; and where the distance between the Lualaba and Lomame is about eighty miles." At this time, a friend named Dugambe was on his way from Ujiji, with a large armed caravan, and nine under- traders with their people. For him, thorefore, Living- stone waited three months in the hope of getting some reliable freemen in the room of the faithless Lttnians, and also a canoe. Dugambe appeared to be a gentleman, and the doctor ofiered him £400 for ten men and a canoe, and afterwards all the goods he supposed he had at Ujiji, so as to enable him to finish his work. His fij:st words were, THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 35 " Why your own slaves are your greatest enemies. I hear everywhere how they have baffled you." He closed the bargain with Livingstone provisionally, but required a few days to consult his associates. Then occurred an event which precipitated the return of the expedition j we give the traveller's own account of it : — " Two days afterwards, or on the 13th of June, a mas- sacre was perpetrated which filled me with such into- lerable loathing that I resolved to yield to the Banian slaves, return to Ujiji, get men from the coast, and try to finish the rest of my work by going outside the area of Ujijian bloodshed, instead of vainly trying from i*^s interior outwards. " Dugambe's people built their huts on the right bank of the Lualaba, at a market place called Nyanwe. On hear- ing that the head slave of a trader at Ujiji had, in order to get canoes cheap, 'mixed blood' with the head men of the Bagenya on the left bank, they were disf^asted with his assurance, and resolved to punish him, and make an im- pression in the country in favour of their own greatness by an assault on the market people, and on all the Bagenya who had dared to make friendship with any but themselves. Tagamalo, the principal undertaker of Dugambe's party, was the perpetrator. The market was attended every fourth day by between 2,000 and 3,000 people. It was held on a large slope of land which, down at the river, ended in a creek capable of containing between fifty and sixty large canoes. The majority of the market people were women many of them very pretty. The people west of the river 3U 36 THE LAST TEARS OF LIYINOSTOXE. 'm iilM ! i brought fish, salt, pepper, oil, grass-cloth, iron, fowls, goats, sheep, pigs, in great numbers to exchange with those east of the river for cassava, grain, potatoes and other farinaceous products. They have a strong sense of natural justice, and all unite in forcing each other to fair dealing. At first my presence made them all afraid, but wishing to gain their confidence, which my enemies tried to undermine or pre- vent, I went among them frequently, and seeing no harm in me became very gracious ; the bargaining was the finest acting I ever saw. I understand but few of the words that flew off the glib tongues of the women, but their gestures spoke plainly. I took sketches of the fifteen varieties offish brought in, to compare them with those of the Nile farther down, and all were eager to tell their names. But on the date referred to I had left the market only a minute or two when three men whom I had seen with guns, and felt in- clined to reprove them for bringing them into the market place, but had refrained by attributing it to ignorance in new comers, began to fire into the dense crowd around them. Another party, down at the canoes, rained their balls on the panic-struck multitude that rushed into these vessels. All threw away their goods, the men forgot their paddles, the canoes were jammed in the creek and could not be got out quick enough, so many men and women sprung into the water. The women of the left bank are expert divers for oysters, and a long line of heads showed a crowd striking out for an island half a mile off ; to gain it they had to turn the left shoulder against a current of between a mile and a half to two miles an hour. Had THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. they gone diagonally with the current, though that would have been a distance of throe miles, many of them would have gained the shore. It was horrible to see one head after another disappear, some calmly, others throwing their arms high up towards the Great Father of all, and going down. Some of the men who got canoes out of the crowd paddled quick with hands and arms, to help their friends ; three took people in till they all sank together. One man had clearly lost his head, for he paddled a canoe which would have held fifty people straight up stream nowhere. The Arabs estimated the loss at between four and five hundred souls. Dugambe sent out some of his men in one of the thirty canoes which the owners in their fright could not extricate, to save the sinking. One lady refused to be taken on hoard because she thought that she was to be made a slave ; but he rescuad twenty- one, and of his own accord sent them the next day home. Many escaped and came to me, and were restored to their friends. When f he firing began on the terror-stricken crowd at the canoes, Tagamalo's band began their assault on the people on the west of the river, and continued the [fire all day. I counted seventeen villages in flames, and next day six. Dugambe's power 0A;'er the underlings is [limited, but he ordered them to ceaso shooting. Those in [the market were so reckless they shot two of their own [number. Tagamalo's crew came back next day in canoes, shouting and firing off theii guns as if believing that they rare worthy of renown. "The next day, about twenty head-men fled from the I n *' 38 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. west bank and came to my house. There was no occasion now to tell them that the English had no desire for human blood. They begged hard that I should go over with them and settle with them, and arrange her*^ the new dwellings of each should be. T was so ashamed of t^ie bloody Moslem company in which I found myself that I was unable to look at the Manyema. I confessed my grief and shame, and was entreated, if I must go, not to leave them now. Dugambe spoke kindly to them and would protect them as well as he could against his own people ; but when I went to Tagamalo to ask back the wives and daughters of some of the head-men, he always ran off and hid himself. " This massacre was the most terrible scene I ever saw. I cannot describe my feelings, and am thankful that I did not give way to them, but by Dugambe's advice avoided a bloody feud with men who, for the time, seemed turned into demons. The whole transaction was the more de- plorable, inasmuch as we have always heard from the Manyema that though the men of the districts may be engaged in actual hostilities, the women pass from one market-place to another with their wares, unmolested. The change has come only with these alien blood-hounds, and all the bloodshed has taken place in order that cap- tives might be seized where it could be done without danger, and in order that the slaving privileges of a petty suit/an should produce abundant fruit. Heartsore, and greatly depressed in spirits by the many instances of 'man's inhumanity to man' I had unwillingly seen, I N THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 39 commenced the long, weary tramp to XJjiji, with the blazing sun right overhead. The mind acted on the body, and it is no over statement to say, that almost every step of between four and five hundred miles was in pain. I felt as if dying on my feet, and I came very near death in a more summary way. It is within the area of blood- shed that danger alone occurs. I could not induce my Moslem slaves to venture outside that area or sphere. They knew better than I did. ' Was Mohammed not the greatest of all, and their prophet V" The danger to which Livlngstor.e refers arose in this way. They were about hall wa} back to Bambarre, at a place where he had for- merly seen a party of young men compelled to carry a trader's ivory. When Livingstone arrived they threw down the tusks and refused to take them any farther. They were compelled to take the ivory up again and they did, but, after a short time, they cast it into a dense mass of vegetation. On arriving at the next stage, the trader sent back some men to demand the stolen ivory. The elders denied tlio theft and were fired upon ; five men were killed, riMd. eleven women and children captured, with twenty-iive j'-citR. The young men then gathered the ivory and carrie' it after the trader some twenty miles, fie asserted that three tusks were missing, and iwent off carrying the captives and goats with him. By [way of revenge, the young men waylaid Dugaiube's party [as he passed shortly after and killed one of his men. On [his return jov 'oy Livingstone's expedition passed another [camp of Ujijiaii uacien, who begged to be allowed to join 1 Jl tl 40 tHE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. their party to his. Amongst them were seventeen Man- yema who had volunteered to carry ivory for the trader to Ujiji, and goods back again. They were, we are told, the first Manyema in modern times who had gone fifty miles from home. The entire caravan now consisted of eighty souls, and had the general appearance of an ordi- nary trading party. On arriving at the locality where the five men had been shot, the maltreated men, now burning for revenge, rem^nbered the glaring dress made of red blankets, and natuivl'v ied to kill the man who had murdered their relatives, ■hey would hold no parley, but attacked Livingstone from the depths of a forest through which he had to pass. Two men near him were slain ; a large spear lunged past close behind ; another missed him by a foot, just in front. Coming to a small cleared spot, he found that fire had been applied to one of the immense trees. He heard the fire crack ; the fire had eaten through, but he felt there was no danger, till it appeared to be coming right down upon him. He ran a few paces back, and the tree came to the ground only one yard off*, broke in several lengths, and covered Living- stone with a cloud of dust. His attendants ran back, ex- claiming, " Peace, peace ! you will finish your work in spite of these people, and in spite of everything." In reference to his preservation from death, Livingstone says, " I, too, took it as an omen of good, that I had three narrow escapes from death in one day. The Man- yema are expert in throwing the spear, and as I had a glance of him whose spear missed by less than an inch ^f THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 41 n behind, and he was not ten yards off, I was saved clearly by the good hand of the Almighty Preserver of men. I can say this devoutly now, but in running the terrible gauntlet for five weary hours, among furies all eager to signalize themselves by slaying one they sincerely believed to have been guilty of a horrid outrage, no elevated sentiments entered the mind. The excitement gave way to overpowering weariness, and I felt as I suppose soldiers do on the field of battle — -not coura- geous, but perfectly indifferent whether I were killed or not." Soon after the head man of the next group of villages approached Livingstone unarmed, and an explanation fol- lowed. He desired the traveller to lend him his people, who had guns, in return for which he offered ten goats in place of three Livingstone had lost. An explanation of the mistake made by the tribe followed, and the chief, when he understood the whole case, admitted that the doctor's joining in his ancient feud would only make mat- ters worse. Livingstone adds : " Indeed, my old Highland blood had been roused by the wrongs which his foes had suffered, and all through I could not help sympathizing with them, though I was the especial object of their re- venge." On the 30th of October, Livingstone wrote a long letter of complaint to Dr. Kirk, in which he speaks bitterly of the Banian slaves, whose treachery and extortion had pre- vented him from completing his work. In a postcript to this communication he says: "Like the man who was ;,! h I 42 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. tempted to despair when he broke the photograph of his wife, I feel inclined to relinquish hope of ever getting help from Zanzibar to finish the little work I have still to do. I wanted men, not slaves, and free men are abundant at Zanzibar ; but if the matter is committed to Ludha, in- stead of an energetic Arab, with some little superintend- ence by your dragoman or others, I may wait twenty years, and your slaves feast and fail." On the lOth of November, 1871, within two weeks of Livingstone's arrival at Ujiji, Stanley arrived with the Herald expedition, and shook hands with the long suffer- ing explorer. The sight of the American correspondent must have been as balm to the wounded spirit of Living- stone, and he welcomej ^-is deliverer from hunger and poverty, with a heartiness and cordiality of the sincerest kind, Stanley had brought food of a nourishing kind, medicines, cloth, and beads, the currency of the interior. After spending a few days in conversation, Stanley im- parting information about the stirring events of the outside world, and Livingstone narrating the story of his discov- eries, and the trials and dangers amid which they were made, the correspondent proposed that they should to- gether explore the north end of Tanganyika — an offer which Livingstone gladly accepted. On the 20th of November, therefore, ten days after Stanley's arrival, they started forth together. Lake Tanganyika it will be re- membered is conr acted with the Albert Nyanza, and may be called Speke and Baker's Nile. According to Living- stone's theorv this line of drainage is not the main line THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 43 of the great river of Egypt, since it takes its rise far to the north of Livingstone's water-course, which, beginning with the Chambezi, flows under different names through large lakes, to form the main trunk of the White Nil.'. Accordingly, when asked by Stanley if he had explored the head of Tanganyika, he said he had not ; " he had not thought it of as much importance as the central line of drainage ; besides, when he proposed to do it, before leav- ing for Manyema, the Wajiji had shown such a disposition to fleece him, that he had desisted from the attempt." Stanley explained to him, that however "^tisfied he might be in his own mind, geographers at ho e attached great importance to the lake in question, and would not be satisfied until it was thoroughly explored. He f irther suggested that as Livingstone was about leaving the lake, and might not visit it again, he might take advantage of Stanley's offer of putting himself, men and effects of the expedition at his disposal. On the 20th, therefore, as we have already stated, Livingstone and " our own corres- pondent" started with twenty picked men of the Herald party. The Arabs had warned them that the Warundi were hostile, and would give some trouble; the party, notwithstanding, hugged their shore closely, and even encamped in the country at night. Once they were com- pelled to fly at dead of night, when they found they were being surrounded on the land side, and once they were stoned. Stanley, it is plain, would like to have peppered them as they deserved, but Livingstone would permit no reprisals. No heed, therefore, was paid to them, and the 4'M w fe i M 44 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. party made its way along the coast till they arrived at the village of Mokamba, one of the chiefs of the Usige. Mokamba was at war with another chief who lived on the left bank of the Rusizi, a river whose course it was of essential importance to explore. As far as the lake itself, they found it for all practical purposes, fathomless. Stanley, perhaps, entertains an exaggerated notion of its depth, placing it at three thousand feet. For this estimate he appears to have no other warrant than the soundings taken by himself and Livingstone. In his address before the British Association, he records their ascertained facts at that date : and it will be at once apparent how much remains to be done, in order to supplement the accurate observations of Livingstone : — " Only two miles from shore I sounded, and though I let down 620 feet of line I found no bottom, Livingstone sounded when crossing the Tanganyika from the west- ward, and found no bottom with 1,80() feet of line. The mountains around the northern half of the Tanganyika fold around so close, with no avenue whatever for the es- cape of waters, save the narrow valleys and ravines which ^dmit rivers and streams into the lake, that were it pos- sible to force the water into a higher altitude of 500 feet above its present level, its dimensions would not be in- creased very considerably. The vaUey of the Malagarazi would then be a narrow deep arm of the lake, and the Rusizi would be a northern arm, crooked and tortuous, of sixty or seventy miles in length. The evening before we paw the Rusizi, a fieedman of Zanzibar was asked \yrhich -^fti^ THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 45 way the river ran — out of the lake or into it ? The man swore that he had been on the river but the day oefore, and that it ran out of the lake. Here was an announce- ment calculated to shake the most sceptical. I thought the news'\oo good to be true. I should certainly have preferred that the river ran out of the lake into either the Victoria or the Albert. The night we heard this announce- ment, made so earnestly, Livingstone and myself sat up very late, speculating as to where it went. We resolved, if it flowed into the Victoria Nyanza, to proceed with it to that lake, and then strike south to Unyanyembe, and, if it flowed into the Albert lake, to proceed into the Albert, and cruise all around it, in the hope of meeting Baker." The exploration of the Rusizi was attended with difficul- ties, the tribes at both banks being at war with each other. King Mokamba, who appears to have behaved very kindly to the travellers, advised them to proceed to the village of his brother, Rubinga, in Mugehawa, by night. They did so, arriving at the residence of the bro- ther, (who was the principal chief of the Usige,) early in the morning. They immediately proceeded to the mouth of the river. A short row brought them to what appeared to be a marsh or brake of cane and papyrus, through which they saw canoes which had preceded them, alter- nately disappearing and reappearing. Some stout pulling brought them at length into the principal mouth of the river, which unquestionably flowed into the lake. The stream gradually broadened into lagoons on either side. Its exit they discovered to be &n alluvial plain sopae r '1 % I 1^ t > 1 1 i til V ! 1 !>' 'i 1 HiliiliJil 46 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. twelve miles wide, which gradually narrows to a point, on either side of which is a range of mountains, stretching on the one side to the west, and on the other to the east. The former breaks off precipitately with a sharp inclina- tion to the north-west ; while the latter ^t inclines westward after leaving the bank and divides into numer- ous spurs — " a perfect jumble of mountains." Stanley's description of the chief Rubinga, whom they visited at Mugehawa, is worth quoting. It appears that he is a great traveller. Born in the Mundi country, he had been at Karagwa and Ruanda, and came to Usige, where he was now the principal chief, when a young man. He took great inteiest in the solution of geographical questions, and entered with readiness into a discussion about the moot points yet to be decided. From the information received from Rubinga, Mr. Stan- ley, it will be seen, forms his own conclusions: — " Briefly, he said that the Rusizi rose from the Lake Kivo, a lake fifteen miles in length, and about eight in breadth. Kwansiburawas the chief of the district in north- eastern Urundi, which gives its name to the lake. Through a gap in a mountain the river Rusizi escaped out of Lake Kivo. On leaving Kivo Lake, it is called Kwangeregere. It then runs through the district of Unyambungu, and becomes known as the Rusizi or Lusizi. A day's march from Mugihewa, or say twenty miles north of the mouth, it is joined by the Luanda or Ruanda, flowing from a north-westerly direction, from which I gather that the river Luanda is called after the nan^e of the country — mSmmmmM THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 47 Ruanda, said to be famous for its copper mines. Besides the Viuanda there are seventeen other streams which con- tribute to Rusizi. Usige, a district of Urundi occupying the head of the lake, extends two marches to the north, or 30 miles ; after which comes what is called Urundi Proper, for another two days' march ; and directly north of that is Ruanda, a very large country, almost equal in size to Urundi. Rubinga had been six days to the north- ward. There were some in his tribe who had gone further, but from no one could we obtain any intelligence of a lake or of a large body of water, such as the Albert Nyanza, being to the north. Sir Samuel Baker has sketched the lake as being within one degi'ee north of Tanganyika; but it is obvious that its length is not so great as it is represented, though it might extend thirty to forty miles south of Vacobia. Ruanda, as represented to us by Ru- binga, Mokamba, chiefs of Usige, and their elders, is an exceedingly mountainous country, with extensive copper mines. It occupies that whole district north of Urundi Proper, between Mutumbi on the west and Urundi on the east, and Itara on the north-east. Of the countries lying north of Ruanda, we could obtain no information. West of Urundi is the extreme frontier of Manyema, which even here has been heard of In returning to Ujiji after the satisfactory solution of the River Rusizi, we coasted down the western shore of the Tanganyika, and came to Uvira at noon on the following day. We were shoAvn the sandy beach on which the canoes of Burton and Speke had rested. Above, a little south of this, rises the lofty r^ i'l ■: .)" ii': f III II 48 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. peak of Samburizi, fully 4,500 feet above the level of the lake. Mi"uti, the chief of Uvira, still lives in the village he occupied when Burton and Speke visited his domini- ons. A day's march, or fifteen miles south of this, Uvira narrows down to the alluvial plains formed by the numer- ous streams which dash down the slopes of the western range, while the mountainous country is known as Ubem- be, the land of the cannibals, who seldom visit the canoes of the traders. South of Uvira is Usansi, peopled by a race extremely cannibalistic in its taste, as the doctor and myself had very good reason to know. I think if we had had a few sick or old men among our party, we could have disposed of them to advantage, or we might have ex- changed them for vegetables, which would have been most welcome to us. From Usansi we struck off across the lake, and rowing all night, at dawn we arrived at a port in Southern Urundi. Three days afterwards we were wel- comed by the Arab traders of Ujiji, as we once more set foot on the beach near that bunder. We have thus coasted around the northern half of the Tanganyika, and I might inform you of other tribes who dwell on its shores ; but the principal subject of my paper was to show you how we settled that vexed question : ' Was the Rusizi an efflu- ent or an influent V There is, then, nothing to be said on that point." Livingstone and Stanley arrived at Ujiji on the 18th of December, 1871, and remained there until the 27th. The importance of the discovery thus made, in an attempt to yolve the Nile mystery, is considerable. Everywhere the THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 4d travellers had been told that this river, the Rusizi, flowed out of Lake Tanganyika, into the Victoria Nyanza. Livingstone and Stanley found, beyond question, that it flowed into the former lake. As Stanley observes, in one f '• i^i'tj Herald letters : — There could be no mistake. Dr. Livingstone and my- self had ascended it, had felt the force of the strong inflow- ing current — the Rusizi was an influent, as much so as the Ma^agar^lzi, the Linche, and Rugufu, but, with its banks full, it can only be considered as ranking third among the rivers flowing into the Tanganyika. Though rapid, it is extremely shallow ; it has three mouths, up which an ordinary ship's boat, loaded, might in vain attempt to ascend. Burton and Speke, though they ascended to wi^ *n six hours' journey by canoe from the Rusizi, were C( 'led to turn back by the cowardice of the boatmen. Had they ascended to Meuta's capital, they could easily have seen the head of the lake. Usige is but a district of Wumdi, governed by several small chiefs, who owe obedi- ence to Mwezi, the great King of Wumdi." In the same letter, we are again confronted with tht, doubts which yet hang upon the skirts of geographical certainty in this portion of the Nile exploration : — ** Though the Rusizi river can no longer be a subject of curiosity to geographers — and we are certain that there is no connection between Tanganyika and Baker's Lake, or the Albert Nyanza — it is not yet certain that there is no connection between Tanganyika and the Nile river. The western coast has not all been explored \ and there la t ,ii ! i; i^l IP Hf S' A- 60 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. reason to suppose that a river runs out of Tanganyika through the deep caverns of Kabogo Mountain, far under- ground, and out on the western side of Kabogo, into the Lualaba, or the Nile. Livingstone has seen the river about forty miles or so west of Kabogo, (about forty yards broad at that place,) but he does not know that it runs out of the mountain." Altogether, twenty-eight days were spent in this jour- ney, nine of which were devoted at the head of Tanganyika, in exploring the islands and the many bays which in- dent its shores. Three hundred miles by water had been traversed during this fruitful exploration or " picnic" as Livingstone called it. The Christmas of 1871 was spent quietly at Ujiji, and, during the breathing- time thus afforded, Mr. Stanley appears to have urged the doctor to give up Nile explo- ration for the time, and revisit his home for ..est v.nd recu- peration. Livingstone admitted at once that he longed to return home and see his children ; but he felt that his undertaking was not complete. If his servants had only been trustworthy and courageous, and if that massacre had not taken place, *• a little month " would have seen his task accomplished. jT Whether we ought now to regret that he did not accept Mr. Stanley's generous offer to es- cort him in comfort to the coast, v/ho shall say ? ^ On the 27th of December Dr. Livingstone and "Stanley again left Ujiji, their ultimate destination being Unyan- yembe, where the former expected to find his stores from Zanzibar, which had been on the road since November, THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 61 1870. The escort was the Herald party, composed of forty Wauguana soldiers, well armed. Mr. Stanley was fully sensible of the responsible task he had undertaken, and he accordingly mapped out the route of travel and provided for the mode of it with anxious care. Nothing illustrates better the sterling mettle of the man than the prescience he showed in providing against all contin- gencies, knowing, as he did, that he had Livingstone's life and safety on his hands. The first stage of the journey was a seven days* trip along the eastern shore of Tanganyika, southward to Urimba, by water. The main body of their attendants formed a shore party which passed through the desolate Ukawendi country. The boat containing Livingstone and Stanley entered a number of bays, the finest and most picturesque of which was Sigunga, a beautiful harbour, sheltered by an island at its mouth, and nestling at the base of green and tree-clad hills which gradually sloped upwards from its shores. At Urimba they were com- pelled to wait three days for the land party — an interval spent by Stanley principally in hunting wild ani aals. Before leaving this place the American had a renewed attack of fever. It was on the 7fch January, 1872, that they finally left Tanganyika, and bent their steps east- ward. The Kawendi woods, through which they now marched for about ten days, formed the most trying por- tion of the journey. No supplies could be got, and the expedition suffered extremely from famine as well as fever. The woods and the tall tangled grass made the !!■ '■ >.f;i: I i 1. 1 li 52 THE LAST YEABS OF LIVINGSTONE. march extremely trying ; Livingstone, however, as St&nley says in his letter, " tramped it on foot like a man of iron." Besides the difficulties of the journey on a level, they were obliged to cross a number of ridges parallel to the lake and to each other; and so to Mount Magdala, the iso- lated peak of which was observed towards the close of this stage. Notwithstanding the toilsome character of 'le journey, Stanley appears to have enjoyed the luxuriance of the Ukawendi district, which he describes as singularly beautiful and attractive. The next thirty-two days were spent in Unkonongc, first eastward and then northward. Before commencing this tramp they halted for a few days to recruit their strength at Mrera or Imrera, the old camping ground of Stanley during his western journey. During this stage Stanley was frequently troubled by the recurrence of fever. On the whole, however, the journey was a comfortable and pleasant one ; they shot abundance of game, and on one occasion obtained 719 lbs. of meat from two zebras. After traversing the Unkonongo coun- try, five days brought them to TJnyanyembe, " where," Stanley writes, " we arrived without any adventure of any kind, except killing zebras, buffaloes, and giraffes, after fifty-four days' travel. This was on the 18th February, 1872, and Stanley re- mained with Livingstone for nearly a month, finally taking what proved to be a last farewell of the great ex- plorer on the 14th of March. They had traveiitd nearly 800 miles, and Stanley had learned to be strongly and even passionately attached to Livingstone. This should g....JI.»<.«.J-»,IW!M •UMiiauMiaMa THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 53 be borne in mind in reading the words of impatience the correspondent uttered w^en any of Livingstone's geo- graphical conclusions or the soundness of any of his judg- ments was impugned. The doctor spent much of the in- terval during which they still sojourned together in writing despatches to the Foreign Office and letters to his rela- tives and friends ; also incompleting his immense journal of travel. This last he sealed up and committed to Stan- ley, to be delivered to his daughter. At length the time of parting arrived. Stanley turned over to Livingstone a valuable supply of stores of all descriptions — cloths, cottons, beads, wire, fire-arms, ammunition, medicines, tea, flour, crackers, and an infinite variety of useful com- modities of all sorts. The moment of separation must have powerfully affected both the men. The last scene seems to have been painful in the extreme. Livingstone again expres.- 3d his gratitude in brief but earnest lan- guage ; his deliverer breathed a prayer that God would bring back to them his dear friend. One single word, too often lightly spoken, but uttered now from the depths of two brave hearts — "Farewell;" and Stanley hurried away lest his emotion should unman him utterly. It is unnecessary to follow the correspondent in his journey homeward. He reached Zanzibar in safety on the 7th of May, and thence sailed for England, via Seychelles. He delivered Livingstone's despatches at the Foreign Office on the 1st of August. The mortality in Stanley's party was thus summed up at Unyanyembo : — " On my arrival I found that the Englishman, Shaw, whom I had turned n ! i: I 54 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. back as useless, had, about a month after his return, suc- cumbed to the climate of the interior, and had died, as well as two Wauguana of the expedition, who had been left behind sick. Thus, during less than twelve months, William Lawrence Farquhar, of Leith, Scotland, and John William Shaw, of London, England, the two white men I had engaged to assist me, had died ; also eight baggage- carriers and eight soldiers of the expedition had died." Before leaving Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley despatched, as Livingstone had requested, a party of reliable freemen, fifty-seven in number, to carry his supplies and stores westward from Unyanyembe. These attendants reached their destination about five months after, and with the five old and faithful servants who had shared his fortunes from 1866, swelled the party to sixty-two. Amongst the letters sent by Stanley was one of thanks to Mr. Bennett, jr. We insert some extracts from it, which will serve to show that, notwithstanding Livingstone's cold and im- passive manner,,he had a warm and affectionate heart : — ii^ Ujiji or Tanganyika, East Africa, November, 1871. James Gordon Bennett, Esq., Junior, My Dear Sir, — It is in general 'somewhat difficult to write to one we have never seen, it feels so iuucli like addressing an abstract idea; but the presence of yjur re- presentative, Mr. H. M. Stanley, in this distant region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise have felt. ss wmm THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 55 and in writing to thank you for the extreme kindness that prompted you to send him, I feel quite at home. If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me, you will easily perceive that I have good reason to use very strong expressions of gratitude. I came to Ujiji after a tramp of between 400 and 500 miles beneath a blazing vertical sun, having been baffled, worried, defeated and forced to return, when almost in sight of the end of the geographical part of my mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem slaves sent to me from Zanzibar instead of men. The jSore heart made still sorer by the truly woeful sights I had seen of " man's inhumanity to man " reacted on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure — I thought that I was dying on my feet. It is not too much to say that almost every step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and I reached Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones. Here I found that some £500 worth of goods I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been entrusted to a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after squandering them for sixteen months in the way to Ujiji, finished up by selling off all that remained, for slaves and ivory for himself He had "divined" on the Koran, and was informed that I was dead. He had also written to the Governor of Un- yanyembe that he had sent slaves after me to Manyuema, who returned and reported my decease, and begged per- mission to sell off the few goods that his drunken appetite had spared. He, however, knew perfectly well from men who had seen me, that I was alive and waiting for the goods and men ; i-H m. 56 THi: LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. but as for morality, he is evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that of the dagger or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness, destitute of everj^thing save a few barter cloths and beads which I had taken the precaution to leave here in case of extreme need. The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miser- able. I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who, on reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted to despair on breaking the photo- graph of his wife. We could have no success after that. Afterwards the idea of despair had to me such a strong smack of the ludicrous that it was out of the question. Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumours of an English visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man who went down from Jerusalem to Jericho ; but neither priest, Levite, nor Samaritan could possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan was close at hand, and one of my people rushed up at the top of his speed, and in great excitement gasped out, "An Englishman coming! I see him!" and off he darted to meet him. An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head of a caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger. I am as cold and undemonstrative as we islanders are usually reputed to be ; but your kindness made my frame thrill. Jt was, indeed, overwhelming, and I said in my soul, "Let the richest blessings descend on you and youre!" The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling * * I had been absent without news fr^m home for years, THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 67 are rame my irs! i * ears, save what I could glean from a few Saturday Reviews and Punch, of 1868. The appetite revived, and in a week I began to feel strong again, Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from Lord Claren- don, (whose loss I sincerely deplore,) the first I have re- ceived from the Foreign Office since 1866, and informa- tion that the British Government had kindly sent £1000 stg. to my aid. Up to his arrival I was not aware of any pe- cuniary aid. I came unsalaried, but this want is happily repaired, and I am anxious that you and all my friends should know that, though uncheered by letter, I have stuck to the task which my friend. Sir Roderick Murchi- son, set me, with *' John Bullish" tenacity, believing that all would come right at last. The water-shed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred miles in length. The fountains thereon are almost innumerable, that is, it would take a man's life- time to count them. From the water-shed they converge into four large rivers, and these again into two mighty streams in the great Nile Valley, which begins in ten de- grees to twelve degrees, south latitude. It was long ere light dawned on the ancient problem, and gave me a clear idea of the drainage. I had to feel my way, and every step of the way was, generally, groping in the dark, for who cared where the rivers ran ? " We drank our fill and let the rest run by." The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, and heard of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and cross-queBtioned, until I was m 58 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. almost afraid of being set down as afflicted with hydroce- phalus. My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of suitable attendants, was following the cen- tral line of drainage down through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or shortly, Manyeraa. This line f>f drainage has four large lakes in it. The fourth I was near when obliged to turn. It is from one to three miles broad, and never can be reached at any point, or at any time of the year. Two western drains, the Lufira or Bartlv3 Frere's River, flow into it at Lake Kamolondo. Tlip.re the great river Lomame flows through Lake Lincoln into it too, and seems to form the western arm of tbe Nile on which Petherick traded. Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the water- shed, and unfortunately the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the whole ; for in it, if I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from an earthen mound, and the last of the four becomes, at no great distance off, a great river. Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira, and Lomame, and two more run south into inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye or Upper Zambezi, and the Kaful. Are not these the sources of the Nile, mentioned by the Secretary of Mi- nerva, in the City of Sais, to Herodotus ? I have heard of them so often and at great distances off", that T cannot doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for home that seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to finish up by their re-discovery. Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 5d unaccountably been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year on the way, instead of four months. I must go where they lie at your expense, ere I can put the natural completion to my work. And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijian slavery should tend to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I shall regard that as a greater matter far than the discovery of all the Nile sources together. Now that you have done with domestic slavery for ever, lend us your powerful aid towards this great object. This fine country is bhghted, as with a curse from above, in -^T-der that the slavery privileges of the petty Sultan of Zanzibar may not be infringed, and the rights of the Crown of Portugal, which are mythical, should be kept in abeyance till some future time, when Africa will be- come another India to Portuguese slave traders. I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great generosity, and am, Gratefully yours, David Livingstone. As our readers are aware, the stirring appeals of Living- stone in this and other letters moved the British Govern- ment to action, and Sir Bartle Frere was sent to negotiate a treaty with the Sultan of Zanzibar for the suppression of the slave trade. The mission was, to a large extent, successful ; but whether the traffic will be extinguished without a display of force on the part of Britain is pro- blematical. The allusion in Livingstone's letter to Hero- I <: ! v; ] ' ■ '-. ■P P il 1, ;■ i 60 THE LAST YEAES OF LIVINGSTONE. Ill dotus' account of the sources of the Nile tempts us to quote the passage as translated by Gary. It used to be the fashion to discredit the authority of " the father of history," and to re'gard him merely as a credulous col- lector of surmise, gossip, and fable — a sort of early Greek Munchausen. Singularly enough, modern geographical research has tended, in every instance, to confirm the statements of Herodotus, and his authority stands, there- fore, proportionally high. It will be seen that Herodotus' information about the fountains of the Nile, and Living- stone's agree almost exactly : — " With respect to the sources of the Nile, no man, of all the Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed, ever pretended to know anything, except the registrar {gram'matistea) of Minerva's treasury at Sais, in Egypt. He indeed seemed to be trifling with me, (i.e. I could hardly believe him,) when he said he knew perfectly well ; his account was as follows : ' That there are two mountains rising into a sharp peak, sik-^ated between the Oity of Syene, in Thebais and Elephantine. The names of these mountains are, the one Crophi, the other Mophi ; that the sources of the Nile, which are bottomless, flow from between these mountains, and that half of the water hows over Egypt, and to the North, and the other over Ethiopia and the South. That the fountains of the Nile are bot- tomless,' he said, * Psamittichus, king of Egypt, proved by experiment, for having caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in length, he let it down, but could not find a bottom.' Such, then, was the opinion THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 61 the registrar gave, if indeed he spoke the real truth [mark the incredulity of Herodotus, whom people supposed to be so gulliblel ; proving, in my opinion, that there are strong whirlpools and an eddy here, so that the water beating against the rocks, a sounding line, when let down cannot reach the bottom, I was unable to learn anything from anyone else. But this much 1 learnt by carrying my researches .^.s far as possible, having gone and made my own observations as far as Elephantine, and beyond that obtaining information from hearsay. As one ascends the river, above the city of Elephantine, the country is steep ; here, therefore, it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of a boat, as one does with an ox and a plough, and so proceed ; but if the rope should happen to break, the boat is carried by the force of the stream. [He evi dently refers here to the so-called cataracts of the Nile above Syene and the Island Elephantine.] This kind of country lasts for a four days' passage, and the Nile here winds as much as Mseander. There are twelve schseni, which it is neces- sary to sail through in this manner ; and after that you come to a level plain, where the Nile flows round an island; its name is Tachompso. Ethiopians inhabit the country immediately above Elephantine, and one-half of the island; the other half is inhabited by Egyptians. Near to this Island lies a vast lake, on the borders of which Ethiopian nomades dwell. After sailing through this lake you will come to the channel of the Nile, which flows into it, then you will have to land and travel forty days by the side of the river, for sharp rocks rise in the t ;. M \ I 02 THE LAST YEARS 01* LiVlNGSTOJfi). i: Nile, and there are many sunken ones, through which it is not possible to navigate a boat. Having passed this country in the forty days you must go on board another boat, and sail for twelve days ; and then you will arrive at a large city called Meroe, this city is said to be the capital of all Ethiopia. [The country formed the greater part of the modern Nubia and Senaar.] The inhabitants worship no other godsthan Jupiter and Bacchus : but these they honour with great magnificence. They have also an oracle of Jupiter ; and they make war whenever that god bids them by an oracular warning, and against what- ever country he bids them. Sailing from this city, you will ari'ive in the country of the Automoli, in a space of time equal to that which you took in coming from Ele- phantine to the capital of the Ethiopians. These Auto- moli are called by the name of Asmach, which in the lan- guage of Greece, signifies ' those that stand at the left hand of the king.' These, to the number of two hundred and forty thousand of the Egyptian war tribe, revolted to the Ethiopians on the following occasion. In the reign of King Psammitichus, garrisons were stationed at Ele- phantine, against the Ethiopians, and another at the Pelu- sian Daphnae against the Arabians and Syrians, and an- other at Marea against Libya ; and even in ray time gar- risons of the Persians are stationed in the same places as they were in the time of Psammitichus, for they maintain guards at Elephantine aad Daphnae. Now, these Egyp- tians, after they had been on duty three years, were not relieved ; therefore, having consulted together and come THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 68 to an unanimous resolution, they all revolted from Psam- mitichus and went to Ethiopia. Psammitichus, hearing of this, pursued them ; and when he overtook them he entreated them, by many arguments, and adjured them not to forsake the gods of their fathers, and their children and wives. These men, when they arrived in Ethiopia, offered their services to the King of the Ethiopians, who made them the following recompense. There were cer- tain Ethiopians disaffected towards him ; these he bade them expel, and take possession of their land. By the settlement of these men among the Ethiopians, the Ethio- pians became more civilized, and learned the manners of the Egyptians. " Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is known, in addition to the part of the stream that is in Egypt ; for, upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a person who travels from Ele- phantine to Automoli. This river flows from the west and the setting of the sun, but beyond this no one is able to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country is desert by reason of the excessive heat. But I have heard the following account from certain Cyrenseans, who say that they went to the oracle of Ammon, and had a con- versr <^ion with Etearchus, King of the Ammonians, and hat, among other subjects, they happened to discourse about t ' ^ Nile — that nobody knew its sources ; where- u ^ .on Etearchus said that certain Nasimonians once came him — this nation is in Libya, and inhabits the Syrtes, a nd the country or no- great distance eastward of the 13 ! I 64 THE LAST TEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. • i» Syrtes — and that when these Nasimonians arrived, and were asked if they could give any further information touching the deserts of Libya, they answered that there were some daring youths amongst them, sons of powerful men ; and that they, having reached man's estate, formed many other extravagant plans and, moreover, chose five of their number, by lot, to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they could make any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest. (For, as respects the partes of Lybia along the Northern Sea, beginning from Egypt to the promontory of Solois, where is the exti-emity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Lybians reach all ai">ng it, except those parts which are occupied by GT^^'J:.ans and Phoenicians ; but as respects the parts above the sea, in che upper parts Lybia is infested by wild beasts ; and all beyond that is sand, dreadfully short of water and utterly desolate.) They furtJier related that when the young men deputed by their companions set out, well furnished with water and provisions, they passed first through the inhabited country, and, having traversed this, they came to the region infested by wild beasts, and after this they crossed the desert, making their way towards the west ; and, when they had traversed much sandy ground, during a journey of many days, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain, and that they approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on the trees. While they were gathering, some dimunitivc men, less than men of middle stature, came up, and having seized them carried them away; and that the Nasimo- THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 65 nians did not. at all understand their language, nor those who carried them off the language of the Nasamonians. However, they conducted them through vast morasses, and when they had passed these they came to a city in which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors, and black in colour ; and by the city flowed a great river running from the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it. Thus far I liave set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian, to which may be added — as the Cyrena^ans assured me — that he said the Nasimonians all returned safe to their own countr}'^, and tha.t the men whom they came to were all necromancers. Etearchus also conjectured that this river which Jlavus by their city is the Nile^ and reason so evinces ; for the Nile flows from Libya and intersects it in the middle ; and (as I conjecture, inferring things unknown from things known) it sets out from a point corresponding with the Ister (Danube). For the Ister, beginning from the Celts and the city of Pyrene, divides Europe in its course, but the Celts are beyond the pillars of Hercules (Gibralter), and border on the territories of the Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe to the westward, and the Ister termi- nates by flowing through all Europe into the Euxine (Black) Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in Istria. Now the Ister, as it flows through a well-peopled country, is generally known, but no one is .able to speak about the sources of the Nile because Libya, through which it flows, is- uninhabited and desolate. Respecting this stream therefore, as far as I was able to reach by inquiry, I have iitf ijcll ill t " 1:1 ' I 66 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. already spoken. It, however, discharges itself into Egypt (an ascertained fact on which the old historian plants him- self as upon sure ground), and Egypt lies as near as may be opposite to the mountains of Cilicia, from, whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea, is a five days' journey in a straight line to an active man ; and Sinope is opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itself into the sea. So 1 think that the Nile, tra\ ersing the whole of Libya may be properly compared with the Ister. Such then is the ac- count that I am able to give respecting the Nile." — Book II. (Euterpe) 28-35. This fanciful comparison of the Nile with the Danube, and some of the obvious en*ors into wliich Herodotus fell, were the result partly of 1 is limited knowledge, but mainly of the vicious geographical theory prevalent in his time. Making every allowance for tlie difficulties the Greek his- torian had to encounter, the extent and accuracy of his information is very surprising. We have already seen that Livingstone cites the passage we have quoted, as con- firming the universal opinion of native tribes widely separated from each other ; a comparison has been made of the account given by the historian with the theory almost demonstrated by the missionary-explorer, by the Rector of Stone: " Herodotus speaks of two peaked mountains, between which lie the sources of the river ; Livingstone, of an earthen mound and four fountains, as the source of the river. Herodotus writes, that one-half of the water flows north into Egypt ; Livingstone, two of these run north to Egypt — Lufira and Lomame. Herodo- '!■ i THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. (17 tus again, the other half flows into Ethiopia ; Livingstone, and two run south into Inner Ethiopia, as the Liambe or Upper Zambesi, and the Kaful. Again, the father of history is confirmed by modern research, and the infor- mation which the great doctor has obtained almost in the immediate neighbourhood of the object of his ambition, siiows how carefully the curious old traveller of 2,300 years ago, must have pursued his inquiries and recorded the results, although he puts it upon record that he thought the man of letters or notary was joking with him." As nearly all the information we as yet possess of Liv- ingstone's movements during the last year and a half of his life is contained in his letters and desp^-tches, we shall proceed to give these, so far as they are accessible, in chronological order. The first was transmitted by Mr. Stanley, and addressed to Earl Granville. It will be ob- served that it principally relates to the manner in which he was treated by the Banian slaves : — Unyanyembe, near the Kazeh of Speke, Feb. 20, 1852. My Lord, — My letters to and from the coast have been KO frequently destroyed by those whose interest and cu- pidity lead them to hate correspondence, as likely to expose their slaving, that I had nearly lost all heart to write, but being assured that this packet will be taken safe home by Mr. Stanley, I add a fifth letter to four al- ready Jpenned, the pleasure of believing that this will i I I Vi I. ■|1 'r .'I 68 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. really come into your Lordship's hands, overpowering the consciousness of having been much too prolix. The subject to which I beg to draw your attention is the part which the Banians of Zanzibar, who are pro- tected British subjects, play in carry ing on the slave trade in Central Africa, especially in Manyema,' the country west of the Ujiji ; together with a proposition which I have very much at heart — the possibility of encouraging the native Christians of English settlements on the West Coast of Africa to remove, by voluntary emigration, to a healthy spot on this side the continent. The Banian British subjects have long been and are now the chief propagators of the Zanzibar slave trade ; their money, and often their muskets, gunpowder, balls, flints, beads, brass wire and calico, are annually advanced to the Arabs at enormous interest, for the murderous work of slaving, of the nature of which every Banian is fully aware. Having mixed much with the Arabs in the inte- rior, I soon learned that the whole system, which is called '* butchee" or Banian trading, is simply marauding and murdering by the Arabs, at the iuLfcigation and by the aid of our Indian fellow-subjects. The cunning Indians se- cure nearly all the profits of the caravans they send inland, and very adroitly let the odium of slavery rest on their Arab agents. As a rule, very few Arabs could proceed on a trading expedition unless supplied by the Banians with arms, ammunition, and goods. Slaves are not bought in the countries to which the Banian agents proceed — indeed, it is a mistake to call the system of Ujiji slave "trade" THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 69 at all ; the captives are not traded for, but murdered for, and the gangs that arc drr^gged coastwards to enrich the Banians are usually not slaves, but captive free people. A sultan, anxious to do justly rather thun pocket head- money, Tvould proclaim them all free as soon as they reached his territory. Let me give an instance or two to illustrate the trade of our Indian fellow-subjects. My friend Muhamad Bogharib sent out a large party of his people far down the great river Lualaba to trade for ivory about the middle of 1871. He is one of the best of the traders, a native of Zanzibar, and not one of the mainlanders, who are lower types of man. The best men have, however, often the worst attendants. This party was headed by one Hassani, and he, with two other head men, advanced to the people of Nyangwe twenty -five copper bracelets to be paid for in ivory on their return. The rings were worth about five shillings at Ujiji, and it being well known that the Nyangwe people had no ivory, the advance was a mere trap ; for, on returning and demanding payment in ivory in vain, they began an assault which continued for three days. All the villages of a large district were robbed, some burned, many men killed, and about one hundred and fifty captives secured. On going subsequently into Southern Manyuema I met the poorest of the above-mentioned head men, who had only been able to f»dvan<.'e five of the twenty-five brace- lets, and he told me ho had bought ten tusks with part of the captives ; and having received information at the village where I found him, about two more tusks, he was 5 ii« II el' ^^ 13 ! i 5 70 THE LAST YEAKS OF LIVINGSTONE. waiting for eight other captives from Muhamad's camp to purchase them. I had now got into terms of friendship with all the respectable traders of that quarter, and they gave information with unrestrained freedom ; and all I state may be relied on. On asking Muhamad himself afterwards, near Ujiji, the proper name of Muhamad Nas- sur, the Indian who conspired with Shereef, to interpose his own trade speculation between Dr. Kirk and me, and defray all his expenses out of my goods, he promptly re- plied, " This Muhamad Nassur is the man from whom I borrowed all the money and goods for this journey." I will not refer to the horrid and senseless massacre which I unwillingly witnessed at Nyangwe, in which the Arabs themselves computed the loss of life at between three hun- dred and four hundred souls. It pained me sorely to let the mind dwell long enough on it to pen the short account I gave, but I mention it again to point out that the chief perpetrator, Tagamolo, received all his guns and gunpow- der from Ludha Damji, the richest Banian and chief slave- trader of Zanzibar. He has had the cunning to conceal his actual participation in slaving, but there is not an Arab in the country who would hesitate a nioment to point out that, but for the money of Ludha Damji and other Banians who borrow from him, slaving, especially in these more distant countries, would instantly cease. It is not to be overlooked that most other trades as well as slaving is carried on by Banians ; the custom-house and revenue are entirely in their hands ; the so-called governors are their trade agents ; Syde bin Salem Buraschid, the thievish THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 71 governor here, is merely a trade agent of Ludha, and honesty having been no part of his qualilications for the office, the most shameless transactions of other Banian agents are all smoothed over by him. A common way he has of concealing crimes is to place delinquents in villages adjacent to this, and wheL they are inquired for by the Sultan he reports that they are sick. It was no secret that all the Banians looked with disfavour on my explor- ations and disclosures as likely to injure one great source of their wealth. Knowing this, it almost took away my breath when I heard that the great but covert slave- trader, Ludha Damji, had been requested to forward sup- plies and men to me. This and similar applications must have appeared to Ludha so ludicrous that he probably an- swered with his tongue in his cheek. His help was all faithfully directed towards securing my failure. I am ex- tremely unwilling to appear as .if making a waii on my own account, or as if trying to excite commiseration. I am greatly more elated by the unexpected kindness of unknown friends and the liberality and sjnnpathy of Her Majesty's government, than cast down by losses and ob- stacles. But I have a purpose in view in mentioning mishaps. Before leaving Zanzibar in 1866, I paid for and dis- patched a stock of goods to be placed in depot at Ujiji ; the Banyamwezi porters, or pagazi, as usual, brought them honestly to this governor or Banian agent, the same who plundered Burton and Speke pretty freely ; and he placed my goods in charge of his own slave, Musa bin Saloom, ■t;t 72 THE LAST YEAKS OF LIVINGSTONE. who, about midway between this and Ujiji, stopped the caravan ten days while he plundered as much as he chose, and went off to buy ivory for his owner, Karague. Sa- loom has been kept out of the way ever since ; the dregs of the stores left by this slave are the only supplies I have received since 1866. Another stock of goods was despatched from Zanzibar in 1868, but the whole was de- voured at this place and the letters destroyed, so that I should know nothing about them. Another large supply, sent through Ludha and his slaves in 1869-1870, came to Ujiji, and, except a few pounds of worthless beads out of 700 pounds' of fine dear beads, all were sold off for slaves and ivory by the persons selected by Ludha Damji. I refer to these wholesale losses because, though well known to Ludha and all the Banians, the statement was made in the House of Lords (I suppose on the strength of Lud- ha's plausible fables) that all my wants had been sup- plied. By coming back in a roundabout route of 300 miles from Ujiji, I did find two days ago a good quantity of supplies, the remains of what had been sent from Zanzi- bar, sixteen months ago, Ludha had again been employed, and the slaves he selected began by loitering at Bago- moyo, opposite Zanzibar, for nearly four months. A war here, which is still going on, gave them a good excuse for going no further. The head men were thieves, and had I not returned and seized what remained, I should again have lost alL All the Banian slaves who have been sent by Ludha and other Banians were full of the idea that THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. 73 they were not to follow but force me back. I cannot say that I am altogether free from chagrin in view of the worry, thwarting, baffling, which the Banians and their slaves have inflicted. Common traders procure supplies of merchandise from the coast, and send loads of ivory down by the same pagazi or carriers we employ, without any loss. But the Banians and their agents are not their enemies. I have lost more than two years in time, have been burdened with 1,800 miles of tramping, and how much waste of money I cannot say, through my affairs having been committed to Banians and slaves who are not men. I have adhered, in spite of losses, with a sort of John Bullish tenacity to my task, and while bearing mis- fortune in as manly a way as possible, it strikes me that it is well that I have been brought face to face with the Banian system that inflicts enormous evils on Central Africa. Gentlemen in India who see only the wealth broug^ ' to Bombay and Cutch, and know that the reli- gion of the Banians does not allow them to harm a fly, very naturally conclude that all Cu tehees may safely be entrusted with the possession of slaves. But I have been forced to see that those who shrink from killing a flea or mosquito are virtually the worst cannibals in all Africa. The Manyema cannibals, among whom I spent nearly two years, are innocent compared with our protected Banian fel- low-subjects. By their Arab agents they compass the de- struction of more human lives in one year than the Manyema do for theirfleshpots in ten: andcould the Indian gentlemen who oppose the anti-slave-trade policy of the Foreign Of- ; t? ill i i;', I i 74 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONK fice, but witness the horrid deeds done by the Banian agents, they would be foremost in decreeing that every Cutchee found guilty of direct or indirect slaving should forthwith be shipped back to India, if not to the Andaman Islands. The Banians, having complete possession of the Custom House and revenue of Zanzibar, enjoy ample opportunity to aid and conceal the slave trade and all fraudulent trans- actions committed by their agents. It would be good policy to recommend the Sultan, as he cannot trust his Moslem subjects, to place his income from all sources in the hands of an English or American merchant of known uprightness. He would be a check on the slave trade, a benefit to the Sultan, and an aid to lawful com- merce. But by far the most beneficial measure that could be introduced into Eastern Africa would be the moral ele- ment, which has worked so beneficially in suppressing the slave trade around all the English settlements of the West Coast, The Banians seem to have no religion worthy of the name, and among Mahommedans religion and morality are completely disjoined. Different opinions have been expressed as to the success of Christian missionaries, and gentlemen who judge by the riff-raff that follow Indian camps speak very unfavourably, from an impression that the drunkards who profess to be of "master's caste and drink brandy" are average specimens of Christian converts. But the comprehensive report of Colonel Ord, presented to Parliament (1865), contains no such mistake. He states THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 75 that while the presence of the squadron has had some share in suppressing the slave trade, the result is mainly due to the existence of the settlements. This is supported by the fact that, even in those least visited by men-of- war, it has been as effectually suppressed as in those which have been their most constant resort. The moral element which has proved beneficial to all round the settlements is mainly due to the teaching of missionaries. I would carefully avoid anything like boasting over the benevolent efforts of our countrymen, but here their good influences are totally unknown. No attempt has ever been made by the Mahommedans in East Africa to propagate their faith, and their trade intercourse has only made the natives more avaricious than themselves. The fines levied on all traders are nearly prohibitive, and nothing is given in re- turn. Mr. Stanley was mulcted of l,600yards of superior calico between the sea and Ujiji, and we made a ddtour of 300 miles to avoid similar spoliation among people accus- tomed to Arabs. It has been said that Moslems would be better missionaries than Christians, because thev would allow polygamy ; but nowhere have the Christians been loaded with the contempt the Arabs have to endure in addition to being plundered. To "honga" originally meant to make friends. It does so now in all the more central countries, and presents are exchanged at the cere- mony, the natives usually giving the largest amount; but on routes much frequented by Arabs it has come to mean not "black-mail," but forced coHtributions impu- dently demanded, and neither service nor food returned. n I' f I I;'?l i 76 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. If the native Christians of one or more of the English settlements on the West Coast, which have fully accom- plished the objects of their establishment in suppressing the slave trade, could be induced by voluntary emigra- tion to remove to some healthy spot on the East Coast, they would in time frown down the duplicity which pre- vails so much in all classes, that no slave treaty can bind them. Slaves purchase their freedom in Cuba and return to unhealthy Lagos to settle as petty traders. Men of the same enterprising class who have been imbued with the moral atmosphere of our settlements, would be of incalcu- lable value in developing lawful commerce. Mombas is ours already ; we left it, but never ceded it. The main- land opposite Zanzibar is much more healthy than the island, and the Sultan gives as much land as can be culti- vated to any one who asks. No native right is interfered with by the gift. All that would be required would be an able, influential man to begin and lead tht movement ; the officials already in office could have passages in men- of-war. The only additional cost to what is at present incurred would be a part of the passage money on loan and small rations and house rent, both of which are very cheap, for half a year. It would be well to prevent Eu' ropeans, even as missionaries, from entering the settlement till it was well established. Many English in new climates reveal themselves to be bom fools, and then blame some one for having advised them, or lay their own excesses to the door of African fever. That disease is in all conscience bad enough, but THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 77 medical men are fully aware that frequently it is not fever, but folly that kills. Brandy, black women, and lazy in- activity are worse than the climate. A settlement once fairly established and reputed safe will not long lack religious teachers, and it will then escape the heavy bur- den of being a scene for martyrdom. If the Sultan of Zanzibar were relieved from the heavy subsidy to the ruler of Muscat, he would, for the relief granted, readily concede all that one or two transferred English settlements would require. The English name, now respected in all the interior, would be a sort of safe- guard to petty traders, while gradually supplanting the unscrupulous Banians who abuse it. And lawful trade would, by the aid of English and American merchants, be exalted to a position it has never held' since Banians and Moslems emigrated to Africa. It is true that Lord Can- ning did ordain that the annual subsidy should be paid by Zanzibar to Muscat. But a statesman of his eminence never could have contemplated it as an indefinite aid to eager slave traders, while non-payment might be used to root, out the wretched traffic. If, in addition to the relief suggested, the Sultan of Zanzibar were guaranteed pro- tection from his relations and others in Muscat, he would feel it to be his interest to observe a treaty to suppress slaving all along his coast. I am thamkful in now repoiting myself well supplied with stores, ample enough to make a feasible finish-up of the geographical portion of my mission. This is due partly to the goods I seized two days ago from the slaves, who h i lit (II t r A i ■r, h J Ik m t ! , 4 i m 78 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINOSTONE. i u have been feasting on them for the last sixteen months, but chiefly to a large assortment of the best barter arti- cles presented by Henry M. Stanley, who, as I have already informed your Lordship, was kindly sent by James Gordon Bennett, jr., of New York, and who bravely persisted, in the teeth of the most serious obstacles, till he found me at Ujiji, shortly, or one month, after my return from Manyema, ill and destitute. It will readily be be- lieved that I feel deeply grateful for this disinterested and unlooked-for kindness. The supplies I seized two days ago, after a return march of 300 miles, laid on me by the slaves in charge refusing to accompany Mr. Stanley to Ujiji, wete part of those sent off in the end of October, 1870, at the instance of Her Majesty's government, and are virtually the only stores worthy of the name that came to hand, besides those despatched by Dr. Seward and myself in 1866. And all in consequence of Ludha and Banian slaves having unwittingly been employed to forward an expedition opposed to their slaving interests. It was no doubt amiable in Dr. Kirk to believe the polite Banians in asserting that they would send stores off at once, and again that my wants had all been supplied ; but it would have been better to have dropped the money into Zanzibar harbour than trust it in t * ( ■ '\: 1 1 (I V 80 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. About ten daj'^s north-east of Katanga very extensive under-ground rock excavations deserve attention as veiy ancient, the natives ascribing their foimation to the Deity alone. Thej?^ aro remarkable for all having water laid on in running streams, and the inhabitants of large districts can all take refuge in them in case of invasion. Return- ing from them to Katanga, twelve days north-uorthwest, take to the southern end of Lake Lincoln. I wish to go down through it to the Lomani, and into Webb's Lualaba and home. I was mistaken in the information that a waterfall existed betv^een Tanganyika and Albert Nyanza. Tanganyika is of no interest except in a very remote degi*ee in connection with the sources of the Nile. But what if I am mistaken, too, about the ancient fountain ? Then we shall see. I know the rivers they are said to form — two north and two south ; and in battling down the central line of drainage the enormous amount of west- ing caused me to feel at times as if running my head against a stone wall. It miglit, after all, be the Congo ; and who would care to run the risk of being put into a cannibal pot and converted into a black man for anything less than the grand old Nile ? But when I found that Lualaba forsook its westing and received through Kamo- londo, Bartle Frere's great river, and that afterwards, fur- ther down, it takes in Young's great stream through Lake Lincoln, I ventured to think I was on the right track. Two great rivers arise somewhere on the western end of the watershed and flow north — to Egypt (?). Two other large rivers rise in the same quarter and flow south, and m end Two )uth, THE LAST YEAIIS OF LIVINGSTONE. 81 as the Zambesi or Lambai, and the ^Kafue into Inner Ethiopia. Yet I speak with diffidence, for I have no affinity with an untravelled vould-be geographer, who used to swear to the fancies he collected from slaves till he became blue in the face. I know about six hundred miles of the watershed pretty fairly. I turn to the seventh hundred miles, with pleasure and hope. I want no companion now, though discovery means hard work. Some can make what they call theo- retical discoveries by dreaming. I should like to offer a prize for an explanation of the correlation of the structure and economy of the watershed with the structure and economy of the great lacustrine rivers in the production of the p> ^inovnena of the Nile. The prize cannot be un- dervalued by competitors even who may only have dreamed of what has given me very great trouble, though they may have hit on the division of labour in dreaming, and each discovered one or two hundred miles. In the actual discovery so far, I went two years and six months without once tasting tea, coffee, or sugar ; and except at Ujiji, have fed on buffaloes, rhinoceros, elephants, hippo- potami, and cattle of that sort, and have come to believe that English roast beef and plum pudding must be the real genuine theobroma, the food of the gods, and I offer to all successful competitors a glorious feast of beefsteak and "tout. No competition will be allowed after I have published my own explanation, on pain of immediate exe- cution, without benefit of clergy ! I send home my journal by Mr. Stanley, sealed, to my v., I -Hi ■ ■ '' ! m 82 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINQSTONE. daughter Agnes. It is one of Lett's large folio diaries, and is full except a few (five) pages reserved for altitudes which I cannot at present copy. It contains a few private memoranda for my family alone, and I adopt this course in order to secure it from risk in my concluding trip. Trusting that your Lordship will award me your appro- bation and sanction to a little longer delay, I have, &c., , David Livingstone, Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. In order to complete the official letters, we may insert here, though slightly out of its chronological place, the following interesting letter to Earl Granville. It was published in the London papers of October 22nd : — Unyanyembe, July Ist, 1872. My Lord, — It is necessary to recall to memory that I was subjected to very great inconvenience by che em- ployment of slaves instead of freemen. It caused me the loss of quite two years of time, inflicted 1,800 or 2,000 miles of useless marching, imminent risk of violent death four several times, and how much money I cannot tell. Certain Banians, Indian Britiyh subjects, headed by one Ludha Damji, seemed to have pahned off their slaves on us at more than double freemen's pay, and all the slaves were imbued with the idea that they were not to follow but to force me back. By the money and goods of these Banians nearly all the slave trade of this region is carried on. They employed dishonest agents to conduct the cara- THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 83 ▼ans, and that has led to my being plundered four several times. No trader is thus robbed. I sent a complaint of this to Dr. Kirk, and in my letter of the 14th of Novem- ber last, I enclosed a copy in the hope that, if necessary^ his hands might be strengthened by the Foreign Office in administering justice ; and I was in hopes that he would take action in the matter promptly, because the Banians and their dishonest agent Shereef, placed a pri- vate trade speculation between Dr. Kirk and me, and we were unwittingly led into employing slaves, though we all objected to Captain Fraser doing the same on his sugar estate. I regret very much to hear incidentally that Dr. Kirk viewed my formal complaint against the Banians as a covert attack upon himself. If I had foreseen this I should certainly have borne aU my losses in silence. T never Lad any difference with him, though we were together for years, and I had no intention to give offence now, but the public interest taken in this expedition en- forces publicity as to the obstacles that prevented its work being accomplished years ago. I represented the Banians and their agents as the cause of all my losses, and that the governor here is their chief trade agent. This receives confirmation from the fact that Shereef and all the first gang of slaves are living comfortably with him at a village about twelve miles distant from the spot at which I write. Having, as I mentioned in my above let- ter, abundant supplies to erable me in a short time to make a feasible finish-up of my work, and the fii^t and second gangs of slaves having proved so very unsatisfactory. (*'•* pi f ^i \ ! 11 i :t|l ■ I''- i If 84 THE IJlST years OF LIVINGSTONE. I felt extremely anxious that no more should come, and requested Mr. Stanley to hire fifty freemen at Zanzibar, and should he meet the party of slaves coming, by all means to send them back. No matter what expense had been incurred I would cheerfully pay it all. I had no idea that this would lead to the stoppage of an English expedition sent in the utmost kindness to my aid. I am really and truly profoundly grateful for the generous effort of my noble countrymen, and deeply regret that my precaution against another expedition of slaves should have damped the self-denying zeal of gen "omen who have not a particle of the slave spirit in them. As I shall now explain, but little good could have been done in the direction in which I propose to go ; but had we a tele- graph, or even a penny post, I should have advised Br. Kirk in another direction that would have pleased the Council. A war has been going on here for the last twelve months. It resembles one of om* own Caffre wars in miniature, but it enriches no one. All trade is stopped, and there is a general lawlessness all over the country. I propose to avoid this confusion by going southwards to Fipa, then round the south end of Tanganyika, and, cross- ing the Chambezi, proceed west along the shore of the Lake Bangweolo, being then in latitude 12 degrees south I wish to go straight west to the ancient fountains re- ported at the end of the watershed, then turn north to the copper mmes of Katanga, which are only about ten days south-west of the underground excavations. Re- turning thence to Katanga, twelve days south-west leads IfiT to THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 85 to the head of Lake Lincohi. Arrived there, I shall de- voutly thank Providence, and retire along Lake Kamo- londo towards Ujiji and home. By this trip I hope to make up for the loss of ground caused by the slaves. If I retired now, as I wish with all my heart I could do with honour, I should be conscious of having left the dis- covery of the sources unfinished, and that soon some one else would come and show the hoUowness of my claim ; and worse by far than that, the Banians and their agents, who I believe conspired to baffle me, would virtually have success in their design. I already know many of the people among whom I go as quite friendly, because I travelled extensively in that quarter in eliminating the error into which I was led by the Chambezi being called by the Portuguese and others, the Zambesi. I should like very much to visit the Basango, who are near my route, but I restrict myself to six or eight months more sustained exertions. Five generations ago a white man came to the High- lands of Basango, which are in a line east of the water- shed. He had six attendants, who all died, and event- ually their head man, Charui'a, was elected chief by the Basango. In the third generation he had sixty able- bodied spearmen as lineal descendants. This implies an equal number of the other sex. They are very light in colour, and easily known, as no one is allowed to wear coral beads such as Charura brought except the royal family. A book he brought was lost only lately. The interest of the case lies in its connection with Mr. Darwin's 6 It I,. I» II 1:1 I "1 1 3: ) ,- < hi P Is r 1 t i I If -I hiii ;t •i Vi m 86 THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. t celebrated theory on the " Origin of Species," for it shows that an improved variety, as we whites modestly call our- selves, is not so liable to be swamped by numbers, as some have thought. Two Magitu chiefs live near the route. I would fain call and obtain immunity for Englishmen such as has been awarded to the Arabs of Seyed Majid, but I am at present much too rich to go among thieves. At other times, when I have called I have gone safely, because, to use a Scotch proverb, " No one can take the breeks off a Highlander." With ordipary success I hope to be back at Ujiji eight months hence. If. any one doubts the wisdom of my de- cision, or suspects me of want of love to my family in making this final trip, I can confidently appeal for appro- bation to the Council of the Royal Geographical Society as thoroughly understanding the subject. Had it been possible fo)* me to know of the coming of the late Search Expedition, I should certainly have made use of it as a branch expedition to explore Lake Victoria, for which the naval officers selected were, no doubt, per- fectly adapted. The skeleton of a boat left here by Mr. Stanley would have served their purpose, and they would have had ail the merit of independent exploration and success. I travelled for a considerable Jtime in company vdth three intelligent Suabelli, who had lived three, six, and nine years respectively in the country east of the Victoria Lake, there called Okara, but on this side Urkara. They TWI THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 87 described three or four lakes only, one of which sends its waters to the north. Okara seems to be Lake Victoria proper. About its middle it gives off an arm eastward, called Kidette, in which many weirs are set and many fish caught. It is three days in length by canoe, and joins Lake Kavirondo, which may not deserve to be called a lake, but only an arm of Okara. Very dark people live on it and have cattle. The Masiri are further east. To the south-east of Kavirondo stands Lake Neibash, or Ney- bash. They travelled along its southern bank for three days, and thence saw Mount Kimanjaro, also in the south- east. It had no outlet away far to the north of Kaviron- do. They described Lake Baringo (not Bahrugo). A river, or rivulet, called Ngare-na-Rogwa, flows into it from the south or south-east. Its name signities that it is brackish. Baringo gives forth a river to the norbhreast, called Ngardabash. The land east and west of Baringo is called Burnkinegge, and Gallahs, with camels and horses, are reported, but my informants did not see them. I give their information only for what it may be worth. Their object was plunder, and they could scarcely be mistaken as to the number of lakes, where we suppose there is only one. Okara, or Lake Victoria proper, is the largest, and has many very large islands in it. I have not the faint- est wish to go near it, either now or at any future time. In performing my one work I desire to do it well, and I think that I may lay claim to some perseverance. Yet, if ordered to go anywhere else, I should certainly plead " severe indisposition, oj* urgent private affairs." I have II. I ii I r 1. tl! » •ik ■ :ite« i |i 1 ■U !■: .ill ■ -,, i 1 . ;■ \i: i \ ' c' I. > ■■ H 88 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. i i I been reported as living among the Arabs as one of them- selves, that only means that I am on good terms with them all. They often call me the " Christian," and I never swerved from that character in any one respect. An original plan of getting the longitude, which I sub- mitted to Sir Thomas Maclear, of the Royal Observatory at the Cape, gives 27 degrees east as the longitude of the great river Lualaba, in latitude 4 degs., 9 south. It runs between 26 deg. to 27 degs. east, and is, therefore, not so far west as my reckoning, carried on without watch, through dense forests and gigantic grasses, made it. It is thus less likely to be the Congo, and I ought to meet Baker on it. In reference to the ancient fountains, I already know the four rivers that unquestionably do arise near or on the western end of the watershed. Mr. Oswell and I were told about 1851 that the Kafue and Liambai (Upper Zambesi) arose at one spot, though we were then some 300 miles distant. The two rivers Lomame and Lufira come from the same quarter. The only point that remains doubtful is the distance of their fountain-heads, and this I am very anxious to ascertain. I send astro- nomical observations and a sketch map to Sir Thomas Maclear by a native. The map is very imperfect from want of convenience for tracing, and no position is to be considered settled or published until it is circulated at the observatory. There is a good deal of risk iu so doing, but not so much danger as if I entrusted it to my friend, the governor. A former sketch map, a multitude of astro- nomical observations, and nearly all my letters, have THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 89 disappeared here ; but it is better that they run the risk in the hand of a native than go with one over waters in- numerable. The fear of losing my journal altogether led me to entrust it to Mr. Stanley to be kept by my daugh- ter till I return, and I hope it has arrived safely. I am waiting her<^ only till my fifty men arrive. In conclusion, let me beg your Lordship to offer my very warmest thanks to the Council and Fellows of the Royal Geographical Society, and to all who kindly con- tributed in any way towards securing my safety. I really feel that no one in this world ought to be more deeply grateful than your obedient servant, David Livingstone. The following letter to Sir Bartle Frere bears the same date as this last despatch : — Unyanyembe, July 1st, 1872. My Dear Sir Bartle, — I embrace the opportunity of a native going to the coast to send a sketch-map and a number of astronomical observations towards the Cape Observatory ; copies of the same were sent long ago (1869), but disappeared at this place of the " longnebbed " name, and almost everything else sent subsequently vanished in the same way. I am now between two fires or dangers ; for if I take up my journal, map, and observations with me in my concluding trip I am afraid that in crossing rivers and lakes they would be injured or lost. There is a danger, too, of losing them between this and the coast ; but the > 3 III A %. ^%.. ^y.. ^■r^> ^.A IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // f/ (/ / s> 1.0 I.I l^llll^ IIIII2.5 S ilM 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■u 6" — ► fliotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAJN STRUT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (7'Sl 872-4303 90 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. i ' \ \ \ last is the homeward route. I entrusted my journal to Mr. Stanley for like reasons ; and now I have but a short trip in prospect to make a feasible finish-up of my work. It is to go round south about all the sources, while ac- tually shaping my course towards the ancient fountains. I perpetrated a heavy joke at the geographers by offering a prize for the best explanation of the structure and economy of the watershed, in correlation with the great lakes ..nd lacustrine rivers, in producing the phenomena of the Nile ; and now they will turn the laugh against me if I have to put in fountains which have no existence. The rivers that rise near the west end of the watershed I know, and they give me good hopes that the reports I have heard so often are true. I have a copy of Ptolemy's map with me, copied by a young lady at Bombay. It does not contain the fountains referred to, but it contains the Monies Lunoe, and as I found the springs of the Nile rising at the base of certain hills on the watershed in Ptolemy's latitude, I am bracing myself up to call every one who won't believe in his Lunce Monies, a Philistine. After Katanga copper mines, which are eight days north of the fountains, I go ten days north-east to extensive underground excavations, used as places of retreat and safety. One I came near, but was refused an entrance. It was sufficient to receive the inhabitants of a large district with all their gear. A bur- rowing race seems to have inhabited Africa at a very re- mote period. Big feet are the only sculpture I have seen, and they are like the footprints of Adam on the mountain in Ceylon. Returning to Katanga, I propose to go twelve III THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE 91 I i,. days north-northwest to the head of Lake Lincoln, and then turn hack along Lake Kamalondo homeward. The Banians and their agents have hindered us greatly hy palming off their slaves on Dr. Kirk and me as free men. If I can but make this short trip successfully, I shall frus- trate their design of baffling all my progress, I complained to Kirk against them, and he, unfortunately, took it as a covert attack on himself, which was never my intention, and makes me sorry. I think that the delinquents should be punished. In fear of a third batch of slaves being im- posed on us, I desired Stanley, if he met any such, to turn them back, no matter how much he had expended on them. This led to the resignation of the naval officers in charge. I had not the remotest suspicion that a Search Expedition was coming, and am very much grieved to think that I may appear ungrateful. On the contrary, I feel extremely thankful, and from the bottom of my heart thank you and all concerned for your very great kindness and generosity. I wish they had thought of Lake Victoria when not needed here. By an original and perhaps absurd plan, I tried to get a longitude for the great central line of drainage out of a dead chronometer. I have submitted it to Sir Thomas Maclear. He is used to strange things. Ladies have come asking to have their futures told them hy the stars. My horoscope tells me that in latitude 49 deg. south the Lua- laba runs between 26 and 27 deg. east. Never mind about the truth of it ; it makes this great river less likely to be the Congo. Surely I may joke about it when others get r fi i t '; I'd iU ' i 4 i !: M 92 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. angry when they ta^lk about. Inner Africa, which they never saw. In a speech of yours reported in an Overland Mail that came to hand yesterday, you say, if I read it right, that the government have given £300 to my daugh- ters. I read it over and over again to be sure, for it seemed too good news to be true. If there is no mistake, my blessing upon them. I have only been trying to do my duty like a Briton, and I take it as extremely kind that me and mine have been remembered by Her Majesty's Ministers. I am distressed at hearing no tidings of Sir Roderick, except that he had been ill. It awakens fears for the dearest friend in life. With kind saluations to Lady and Miss Frere, I am, affectionately yours, David Livingstone. Next in order follow his letters to Mr. Bennett, of the Herald, These contain a vast amount of information concerning Africa, and a luminous exposition of the miseries inflicted by the slave trade. The second letter was only given to the world a few months ago, having been found amongst the doctor's papers after his decease South-Eastern Central Africa, Februar}^ 1872. My Dear Sir, — I wish to say a little about the slave trade in Eastern Africa. It is not a very inviting subject, and to some I may appear as supposing your readers to be THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 93 very much akin to the old lady who relished her paper for neither births, deaths, nor marriages, but for good racy, bloody murders. I am, however, far from fond of the hor- rible — often wish I could forget the scenes I have seen, and certainly never try to inflict on others the sorrow which, being a witness of " man's inhumanity to man," has often entailed on myself. Some of your readers know that about five years ago I undertook, at the instigation of my very dear old friend. Sir Roderick Murchison, Bart., the task of examining the water shed of South Central Africa. The work had a charm for my mind, because the dividing line between Worth and South was unknown, and a fit object for explo- ration. Having a work in hand, I at first recommended another for the task ; but, on his declining to go without a handsome salary, and something to fall back on after- wards, I agreed to go myself, and was encouraged by Sir Roderick saying, in his warm jovial manner, " You will be the real discoverer of the sources of the Nile," I thought that two years would be suflicient to go from the coast inland across the head of Lake Nyassa to the watershed, wherever that might be, and, after examination, try to begin a benevolent mission with some tribe on the slopes reaching towards the coast. Had I known all the time, toil, hunger, hardships, and worry involved in that pre- cious water-parting, I might have preferred having my head shaved, and a blister put on it, to ^appling with my good old friend's task. But, having taken up the burden, I could not bear to be beaten by it. I shall tell i^ \m : I.,, * ,, , «, \v ^ i - Mi \'\ 94 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. I) 1 ill you a 'little about the progress made bj'^ and-by. At present, let me give you a glimpse of the slave trade with which the search and discovery of most of the Nile foun- tains has brought me face to face. The whole traffic, whether on land or ocean, is a gross outrage on the com- mon law of mankind. It is carried on from age to age, and, in addition to the untold evil it inflicts, it presents almost insurmountable obstacles to intercour'^j© between the different portions of the human family. This open sore in the world is partly owing to human cupidity, and partly to ignorance among the more civilized of mankind, of the blight which lights chiefly on the more degraded. Piracy on the high seas was once as common as slave- trading is now. But as it became thoroughly known, the whole civilized world rose against it. In now trying to make the Eastern African slave trade better known to Americans, I indulge the hope that I am aiding on, though in a small degree, the good time cc ning yet, when slavery as well as piracy shall be chased from the world. Many have but a faint idea of the evils that trading in slaves inflicts on the victims and on the authors of the atrocities. Most people imagine that negroes, after being brutalized by a long course of servitude, with but few of the ameliorating influences that elevate more favoured races, are fair average specimens of the African man. Our ideas are derived from the slaves of the West Coast, who have for ages been subjected to domestic bondage and all the depressing agencies of a most unhealthy climate. These have told most injuriously on their physical frames, THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 95 3S, while fraud and trade rum have ruined their moral na- tures. Not to discriminate the difference, is monstrous injus- tice to the main body of the population, living free in the interior, under their own chiefs and laws, cult^ivating their own farms, catching the fish of their own rivers, or fight- ing bravely with the grand old denizens of the forests, which in more recent continents can only be reached in rocky strata or under perennial ice. Winwoode Reade hit the truth when he said the an- cient Egyptian, with his large rou X black eyes, full lus- cious lips, and somewhat depressed nose, is far nearer the typical negro than the West Coast African, who has been debased by the unhealthy land he lives in. Slaves generally — and especially those on the West Coast, at Zanzibar and elsewhere — are extremely ugly. I have no prejudice against their colour ; indeed, any one who lives long among them forgets that they are black, and feels they are just fellow-men. But the low retreating foreheads, prognathous jaws, lark heels, and other physical peculiarities common among slaves and West Coast ne- groes, alwaj'^s awaken the same feelings of aversion, as those with which we view specimens of the '*Bill Sykes " and " bruiser " class in England. I would not utter a syllable calculated to press down either class more deeply in the mire in which they are already sunk. But I wish to point out that these are not typical Africans, any more than typical Englishmen, and that the natives of nearly all the high lands of the interior 1 1 f if i ill! i I M 'Si )' 96 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. of the continent are, as a rule, fair average specimens of humanity. I happened to be present when all the head men of the great chief Insama, who lives west of the south end of Tanganyika, had come together to make peace with cer- tain Arabs who had burned their chief town, and I am certain one could not see more finely-formed intellectual heads in any assembly in London or Paris, and the faces and forms corresponded with the finely-shaped heads. Insama himself had been a sort of Napoleon for fight- ing and conquering in his younger days, was exactly like the ancient Assyrians sculptured on the Nineveh marbles, as Nimrod and others ; he showed himself to be one of ourselves by habitually indulging in copious potations of beer, called pomhe, and had become what Nathaniel Haw- thorne called " bulbous," below the ribs. IJdon't know where the phrase "bloated aristocracy" arose. . It must be American, for I have had glimpses of a good many English noblemen, and Insama was the only specimen of a bloated aristocrat on whom I ever set my eyes. Many of the women were very pretty, and, like all la- dies, would have been much prettier if they had only let themselves alone. Fortunately, the dears could not change their charming black eyes, beautiful foreheads, nicely rounded Hmbs, well-shaped forms, and small hands and feet. But they must adorn themselves ; and this they do — oh, the hussies ! — ^by filing their splendid teeth to points like cat's teeth. It was distressing, for it made their THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 97 smile, which has generally so much power over us great he-donkeys, rather crocodile-like. Ornaments are scarce. What would our ladies do, if they had none, but pout and lecture us on " women's rights " ? But these specimens of the fair sex make shift by adorning their fine warm brown skins, tattooing them with various pretty devices without colours, that, besides purposes of beauty, serve the heraldic uses of our Highland tartans. They are not black, but of a light warm brown colour, and so very sisterish — if I may use the new coinage— -it feels an injury done to one's self to see a bit of grass stuck through the cartilage of the nose, so as to bulge out the alee nasi (wings of the nose of anatomists). Cazembe's Queen — a Ngombe, Moari by name — would be esteemed a real beauty either in London, Paris, or New York ; and yet she had a small hole through the cartilage near the tip of her fine slightly aquiline nose. But she had only filed one side of the two fronts of her su- perb snow-white teeth ; and then what a laugh she had ! Let those who wish to know, go and see her catried to her farm in her pony phaeton, which is a sort of throne fastened on two very long poles, and carried by twelve stalwart citizens. If they take PuncKa motto for Cazembe, *' Niggers don't require to be shot here," as their own, they may show themselves to be men; but, whether they do or not, Cazembe will show himself a man of sterling good sense. Now these people, so like ourselves externally, have genuine human souls. Rua, a very large section of coun- try north and west of Cazembe's, but still in the same !'■ • *■ »■ * I i 4 U \ • Hi 98 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. inland region, is peopled by men very like those of Insaraa and Cazembe. An Arab, Said Bin Habib, went to trade in Rua two years ago, and, as the Arabs usually do where the natives have no guns. Said Bin Habib's elder brother carried mat- ters with a high hand. The Rua men observed that the elder brother slept in a white tent, and, pitching their spears into it by night, killed him. As Moslems never forgive blood, the younger brother forthwith ran amuck at all indiscriminately, in a large district. Let it not be supposed that any of these people are like the American Indians — insatiable, bloodthirsty savages, who will not be reclaimed or enter into terms of lasting friendship with fair-dealing strangers. Had the actual murderers been demanded, and a little time been granted, I feel morally certain, from many other instances among tribes who, like the Ba Rue, have not been spoiled by Arab traders, they would have all been given up. The chiefs of the country would, first of all, have specified the crime of which the elder brother was guilty, and who had been led to avenge it. It is very likely that they would stipulate that no other should be punished but the actual perpetrator. Domestic slaves, acting under his orders, would be considered free from blame. I know of nothing that distinguishes the uncontaminated Africans from other degraded peoples more than their entire rea- sonableness and good sense. It is different after they have had wives, children, and relatives kidnapped ; but that is more than human nature, civilized or savage, can bear. THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 99 In the case in question, indiscriminate slaughter, capture, and plunder took place. A very large number of very fine young men were captured and secured in chains and wooden yokes. I came near the party of Said Bin Ha bib close to a point where a huge rent in the mountains of Rua allows the escape of the great River Lualaba out of Lake Moero. And here I had for the first time an oppor- tunity of observing the difference between slaves and freemen made captives. When fairly across Lualaba, Said thought his captives safe, and got rid of the trouble of attending to and watching the chained gangs by taking off" both chains and yokes. All declared their joy and per- fect willingness to follow Said to the end of the world or elsewhere, but next morning twenty -^two made clear off to the mountains. Many more, on seeing the broad Lua- laba roll between them and the homes of their infancy, lost all heart, and in three days eight of them died. They had no complaint but pain in the heart, and they pointed out its seat correctly, though many believe that the heart is situated underneath the top of the sternum or breast- bone. This to me was the most startling death I ever saw. They evidently died of broken-heartedness, and the Arabs wondered, '* seeing they had plenty to eat." I saw others perish, particularly a very fine boy of ten or twelve years of age. When asked where he felt ill, he put his hand cor- rectly and exactly over the heart. He was kindly carried, and as he breathed out his soul was laid gently on the side of the path. The captors were not unusually cruel. They were callous — slaving had hardened their hearts. I It ■ 1 IS,' I ■;: Ir * IK i I* ! r I lii I; I Mi i !1 i fl S i!;l ill McMASTER UiMvtHSliY Licr^art^ 100 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. i ;i When Said, who was an old friend of mine, crossed the Lualaba, he heard that I was in a village where a com- pany of slave traders had been furiously assaulted for three days by justly incensed Mabemba. I would not fight, nor allow my people to fire if I saw them, because the Mabemba had been especially kind to me. Said sent a party of his own people to invite me to leave the village by night, and come to him. He showed himself the oppo- site of hard-hearted ; but slaving " hardens all within, and petrifies the feelings." It is bad for the victims, and ill for the victimizers. I once saw a party of twelve who ^ad been slaves in their own country — Lunda or Londa, of which Cazembe is chief or general. They were loaded with large, heavy wooden yokes, which an forked trees about three inches in diameter and seven or eight feet long. The neck is in- serted in the fork, and an iron bar driven in across from one end of the fork to the other, and riveted ; the other end is tied at night to a tree, or to the ceiling of a hut, and the neck being firm in the fork, the slave is held off from unloosing it. It is excessively troublesome to the wearer, and when marching two yokes are tied together by their free ends, and loads put on the slaves' heads be- sides. Women, having in aJ^.^ition to the yoke and load a child on the back, have said to me on passing, " They are killing me ; if they would take oflT the yoke I could manage the load and child, but I shall die with three loads." One who spoke thus did die, and the poor little girl, her child, perished of starvation. I interceded for N THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 101 some ; but, when unyoked, off they bounded into the long grass, and I was gently blamed for not caring to preserve the owner's property. After a day's march under a broil- ing vertical sun, with yokes and heavy loads, the strong- est are exhausted. The party of twelve above mentioned were sitting singing and laughing. ** Hallo ! " said I, ** these fellows take to it kindly ; this must be the class for whom philosophers say slavery is the natural state ; " and I went and asked the cause of their mirth. I had to ask the aid of their owner as to the meaning of the word rukha, which usually means to fly or to 1 "ip. They were using it to express the idea of haunting, ;is a ghost, and inflicting disease and death ; and f\ ) song wap : " Yes, we are going away to Manga (nbroad, v.>r white man's lanuj A ith yokes on our necks ; but we shall have no' yokes in death, and we shall return to hnunt and kill you." The chorus then struck in with the name of the man who had sold each of them, and then followed the general laugh, in which at first I saw no bitterness. Perembe, an old man at least 104 years, had been one of the sellers. In accordance with African belief, they have no doubt of being soon able, by ghost power, to kill even him. Their refrain might be rendered. W IV I ■ 'I t i I ' Oh, oh, oh ! Bird of freedom, oh ! You sold me, oh, oh, oh ! I shall haunt you, oh, oh, oh ! The laughter told not of mirth, but of the tears of such as r :l ii.l .1 102 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. were oppressed, and they had no comforter. " He that is higher than the highest regardeth." About north-east jf Rua we have a very large country called Manyuema, but by the Arabs it is shortened into Manyema. It is but recently known. The reputation which the Manyuema enjoyed of being cannibals, pre- vented the half-caste Arab traders from venturing among them. The circumstantial details of the practices of the men- eaters given by neighbouring tribes were confirmed by two Arabs, who two years ago went as far as Bambarre, and secured the protection and friendship of Moenekuss — lord of the light-gray parrot with scarlet tail — who was a very superior man. The minute details of cannibal orgies given by the Arabs' attendants erred through sheer excess of the shocking. Had I believed a tenth part of what I was told I might never have ventured into Manyuema ; but, fortunately, my mother never frightened me with "Bogie" and stuff (jf that sort, and I am not liable to fits of bogiephobia, in which disease the poor patient believes everything awful if only it is attributed to the owner of a black skin. I have heard that the complaint was epidemic lately in Jamaica, and the planters' mothers have much to answer for. I hope that the disease may never spread in the United States. The people there are believed to be inoculated with common sense. But why go among the cannibals at all ? Was it not like joining the Alpine Club in order to be lauded if you Lt not lif you THE LAST YEABS OF LIVINOSTOXE. 103 r don't break your neck where your neck ought to be broken ? This makes me turn back to the watershed, as I promised. It is a broad belt of tree-covered upland, some 700 miles in length from west to east. The general altitude is betweeti 4,000 and 5,000 feet above the sea, and moun- tains stand on it at various points, which are between 6,000 and 7,000 feet above the ocean level. On this water- shed springs arise which are well nigh innumerable — that is, it would take half a man's lifetime to count them. These springs join each other and form broolts, which again converge and become rivers, or say streams, of twenty, forty, or eighty yards, that never dry. All flow towards the centre of an immense valley, which I believe to be the Valley of the Nile. In this trough we have at first three large rivers. Then all unite into one enormous lacustrine river, the central line of drainage, which I name Webb's Lualaba. In this great valley there are five great lakes. One near the upper end is called Lake Bemba, or, more property, Bang- weolo, but it is not a source of the Nile, fqr no large river begins in a lake. It is supplied by a rivei\ called Cham- bezi, and several others, which may be considered sources ; and out of it flows the large river Luapula, which enters Lake Moero and comes out as the great lake river Lualaba to form Lake Kamolondo. West of Kamolondo, but still in the great valley, lies Lake Lincoln, which I named as my little tribute of love to the great and good man America enjoyed for some time and lost. H' i; iri ft i'l I J I t J; * ■V: i n i}m : l..i ■4 In I m 3 •■;■, \il\ 104 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 'I One of the three great rivers I mentioned — Bartle Frere's, or Lufira — falls into Kamolondo, and Lake Lin- coln becomes a lacustrine river, and it, too, joins the cen- tral line of drainage, but lower down, and all three united form the fifth lake, which the slaves sent to me instead of men forced me, to my great grief, to leave as the " un- known lake." By my reckoning — the chronometers being all dead — it is five degrees of longitude west of Speke's position of Ujiji ; this makes it probable that the great lacustrine river in the valley is the western branch — or Petherick's Nile — the Bahar Ghazal, and not the eastern branch, which Speke, Grant, and Baker believed to be the river of Egypt. If correct, this would make it the Nile only after all the Bahar Ghazal enters the eastern arm. But though I found the watershed between 10 deg. and 12 deg. south — that is, a long way further up the valley than any one had dreamed — and saw the streams of some 600 miles of it converging into the centre of the great valley, no one knew where it went after that departure out of Lake Moero. Some conjectured that it went into Tanganyika, but I saw that to do so it must run up hill. Others imagined that it might flow into the Atlantic. It was to find out w^here it actually did go that took me into Manyuema. I coidd get no information from traders out- side, and no light could be obtained from the Manyuema within — they never travel, and it was so of old. They consist of petty headmanships, and each brings his grievance from some old feud, which is worse than our old Highland ancestors. Every head man of a hamlet THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 105 would like to see every other ruling blockhead slain. But all were kind to strangers ; and, though terrible fellows among themselves, with their lar^e spears and huge wooden shields, they were never known to injure foreigners, till slavers tried the effects of gunshot upon them and captured their women and children. As I could get no geographical information from them^ I had to feel my way, and grope in the interminable forests and prairies, and three times took the wrong direction going northerly, not knowing that the great river makes immense sweeps to the west and south-west. It seemed as if I were running my head against a stone wall. It might after all turn out to be the Congo ; and who would risk being eaten and converted into black man for it ? I had serious doubts, but stuck to it like a Briton ; and at last found that the mighty river left its westing and flowed right away to the north. The two great western drains, the Lufira and Lomame, running north-east before joining the central or main stream — Webb's Lualaba — told that the western side of the great valley was high, like the eastern ; and as this main is reported to go into large reedy lakes, it can scarcely be aught else but the western arm of the Nile. But, besides all this — in which it is quite possible I may be mistaken — we have two fountains on probably the seventh hundred mile of the watershed, giving rise to two rivers — the Liambai, or Upper Zambezi, and the Kafue, which flow into Inner Ethiopia ; and two fountains are reported to rise in the same quarter, forming Lufira and Lomame, which flow, as we have seen to the i . t I:. 1* i l|Vli ' 1 1 i I;, t m ill 106 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. north. These four full-grown gushing fountains, rising so near each other, and giving origin to four large rivers, answer, in a certain degree, to the description given of the unfathomable fountains of the Nile, by the secretary of Minerva, in the city of Sais in Egypt, to the father of all travellers, Herodotus. But I have to confess that it is a little presumptuous in me to put this forward in Central Africa, and without a single book of reference, on the dim recollection of reading the ancient historian in boyhood. The waters are said to well up from an unfathomable depth, and then part, half north to Egypt and half south to Inner Ethiopia. Now I have heard of the fountains afore-mentioned so often I cannot doubt their existence, and I wish to clear up the point in my concluding trip. I am not to be considered as speaking without hesitation, but prepared, if I see reason, to confess myself wrong. No one would like to be considered a disciple of the testy old would-be geographer, who wrote " Inner Africa Laid Open," and swore to his fancies till he became blue in the face. The work would all have been finished long ago had the matter of supplies of men and goods not been entrusted by mistake to Banians and their slaves, whose efforts were all faithfully directed towards my failure. These Banians are protected English subjects, and by their money, their muskets, their ammunition, the East African Moslem slave trade is mainly carried on. The cunning East Indians secure most of the profits of the old jaid the id by East The kf the THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 107 slave trade, and adroitly let the odium rest on their Arab agents. The Banians will not harm a flea or a mosquito, but my progress in geography has led me to the discovery that they are by far the worst cannibals in all Africa. They com- pass, by means of Arab agents, the destruction of more human lives for gain in one year than the Manyuema do for their flesh-pots in ton. The matter of supplies and men was unwittingly com- mitted to these, our Indian fellow-subjects, who hate to see me in their slave market, and dread my disclosures on the infamous part they play. The slaves were all imbued with the idea that they were not to follow but force me back ; and after rioting on my goods for sixteen months on the way, instead of three, the whole remaining stock was sold off for slaves and ivory. Some of the slaves who came to Manyuema so baffled and worried me, that I had to return between 500 and 600 miles. The only Jhelp I have received, except half a supply which I despatched from Zanzibar in 1866, has been from Mr. Stanley, your travelling correspondent, and certain re- mains of stores which I seized from the slaves sent from Zanzibar seventeen months ago, and 1 had to come back 300 miles to effect the seizure. I wait here — Unyanyembe— only till Mr. Stanley can send me fifty free men from the coast, and then I proceed to finish up the geographical part of my mission. I come back to the slavery question, and if I am per- il i| if i !i 'i|ji :'«'! ': s| ;:i 108 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. !l mitted in any way to promote its suppression, T shall not grudge the toil and time I have spent. It would be better to lessen human woe than discover the sources of the Nile. When parties leave Ujiji to go westwards into Man- yuema, the question asked is not what goods they have but how many guns and kegs of gunpowder. If they have 200 or 300 muskets, and ammunition in proportion> they think success is certain. No traders having ever before entered Manyuema, the value of ivory was quite unknown. Indeed, the tusks were left in the forests, with the other bones, where the animals had been slain ; many were rotten, others were gnawed by a rodent animal to sharpen his teeth, as Lon- don rats do on leaden pipes. If civilly treated, the people went into the forests to spots where they knew elephants had been killed either by traps or spears, and brouglit the tusks for a few cop- per bracelets. I have seen parties return with so much ivory that they carried it by three relays of hundreds of slaves. Bat even this did not satisfy human greed. The Manyuema were found to be terrified by the re- port of guns ; some, I know, believed them to be super- natural, for when the effect of a musket ball was shown on a goat, they looked up to the clouds, and offered to bring ivory to buy the charm by which the lightning was drawn down. When a village was assaulted, the men fled in terror, and the women and children were captured. Many of the Manyuema women, especially far down ■f c THE LAST YEAIIS OF LIVINGSTONE. 109 ^ the Lualaba, are very light coloured and lovely. It was common to hear the Zanzibar slaves — whose faces resemble the features of London door-knockers, which some atrocious ironfounder thought were like those of lions — say to each other, " Oh, if we had Manyuema wives, what pretty children we should get ! " , Manyuema men and women were all vastly superior to the slaves, who evidently felt the inferiority they had ac- quired by wallowing in the mire of bondage. Many of the men were tall, strapping fellows, with but little of what we think distinctive of the negro about them. If one re- lied on the teachings of phrenology, the Manyuema men would take a high place in the human family. They felt their superiority, and often said truly, " Were it not for fire-arms, not one of the strangers would ever leave our country." If a comparison were instituted, and Manyuema, taken at random, placed opposite, say, the members of the An- thropological Society of London, clad like them in kilts of grass cloth, I should like lo take my place along- side the Manyuema, on the principle of preferring the company of my betters ; the philosophers would look woe- fully scraggy. But though the '^inferior race," as we com- passionately call them, have finely-formed heads, and of- ten handsome features, they are undoubtedly cannibals. It was more difficult to ascertain this than may be ima- gined. (Some think that they can detect the gnawingsof our cannibal ancestry on fossil bones, though the canine teeth of dogs are pretty much like the human, ) !.!! i ■! i 110 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. For many a month all the evidence I could collect amounted only to what would lead a Scotch jury to give a verdict of " not proven." This arose partly from the fellows being fond of a joke, and they like to horrify any one who seemed credulous. They led one of my people, who believed all they said, to see the skull of a recent hu- man victim, and he invited me in triumph. I found it to be the skull of a gorilla — here called a Soko — and for the first time I became aware of the existence of the animal there. The country abounds in food of all kind, and the rich soil raises everything planted in great luxuriance. A friend of mine tried rice, and in between three and four months it yielded one hundred and twenty fold ; three measures of seed jrielded three hundred and sixty mea- sures. Maize is so abundant that I have seen forty-five loads, each about sixty pounds, given for a single goat. The " maize-dura " — or holcus sorghum Tenniaetwm cas- sava — sweet potatoes, and yams, furnished in no stinted measure the farinaceous ingredients of diet ; the palm oil, the ground nuts, and the forest tree afibrd the fatty materials of food; bananas and plantains, in great profusion, and the sugar- cane yields saccharine ; the palm toddy, beer of bananas, tobacco and bange, canabis sativa, form the luxuries of life ; and the villages swarm with goats, sheep, dogs, pigs, and fowls; while the elephants, buffaloes, zebras, and sokos, or gorillas, yield to the expert hunter plenty of ni- trogenous ingredients of human food. It was puzzling to see why they should be cannibals, of THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. Ill New Zealanders, we were told, were cannibals because they had killed all their gigantic birds (moa, &c.), and they were converted fi'om the man-eating persuasion by the in- troduction of pigs. But the Manyuema have plenty of pigs and other domestic animals, and yet they are cannibals. Into the reasons of their cannibalism I do not enter. They say that human flesh is not equal to that of goats or pigs ; it is saltish, and makes them dream of the dead. Why fine-looking men like them should be so low in the moral scale can only be attributed to the non-introduction of that religion which makes those distinctions among men which phrenology and other ologies cannot explain. The religion of Christ is unquestionably the best for man. I refer to it not as the Protestant, the Catholic, the Greek, or any order, but to the comprehensive faith which has spread more widely over the world than most people imagine, and whose votaries, of whatever name, are bet- ter men than any outside the pale. We have, no doubt, grievous faults, but these, as in Paris, are owing to the want of religion. Christians generally are better than the heathens, but often don't know it, and they are all immeasurably better than they believe each other to be. The Manyuema women, especially far down the Lualaba, are very pretty and very industrious. The market is with them a great institution, and they work hard and carry far, in order to have something to sell. Markets are established about ten or fifteen miles apart. There those who raise cassava, maize, grain, and sweet I! ii!.: Il!l j! i m f' '' "'4 \y 'ii? , i •^1 ^ 112 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. potatoes, exchange them for oil, salt, pepper, fish, and other relishes ; fowls, also pigs, goats, grass cloth, mats, and other articles change hands. All are dressed in their best — gaudy-colonred, many- folded kilts, that reach from the waist to the knee. When 2,000 or 3,000 are together they enforce justice, though chiefly women, and they are so eager traders, that they set off in companies by night, and begin to run as soon as they come within the hum arising from hundreds of voices. To haggle, and joke, and laugh, and cheat, seems to be the dearest enjoyment of their life. They confer great benefits upon each other. The Bayenza women are expert divers for oysters, and they barter them and fish for ffirinaceous food with the women on the east of the Lualaba, who prefer cultivating the soil to fishing. The Manyuema have always told us that women going to market were never molested. When the men of two districts are engaged in actual hostilities, the women passed through from one market to another un- harmed ; to take their goods, even in war, was a thing not to be done. But at these market-women the half- castes directed their guns. Two cases that came under my own observation were so sickening, that I cannot allow the mind to dwell upon or write about them. Many of both sexes were killed, but the women and children chiefly were made captives. No matter how much ivory they obtained, these *' Nigger Moslems " must have slaves, and they assaulted the markets and villages, and made cap- tives chiefly, as it appeared to me, becausei as the men ran THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 113 off at the report of guns, they could do it without danger. I had no idea hefore how bloodthirsty men can be when they can pour out the blood of fellow-men in safety. And all this carnage is going on in Manyuema at the very time I write. It is the Banians, our protected Indian fellow- subjects, that indirectly do it all. We have conceded to the Sultan of Zanzibar the right, which is not ours to give, of a certain amount of slave trading, and that amount has been from 12,000 to 20,000 a year. As we have seen, these are not traded for, but murdered for. They are not slaves, but free people made captive. A Sultan with a sense of justice would, instead of taking head-money, de- clare they were all free as soon as they touched his terri- tory. But the Banians have the custom-house and all the Sultan's revenue entirely in their hands. He cannot trust his Mahometan subjects, even of the better class, to farm his income, because, as they themselves say, he would get nothing in return but a crop of lies. The Ban- ians naturally work the custom-house so as to screen their own slaving agents ; and so long as they have the power to promote it, their atrocious system of slaving will never cease. For the sake of lawful commerce, it would be poli- tic to insist that the Sultan's revenue by the custom-house should be placed in the hands of an English or American merchant of known reputation and uprightness. By this arrangement the Sultan would be largely benefited, legal commerce would be exalted to a position it has never held since Banians and Moslems emigrated into Eastern Africa, ii 1 ''' 1i f 114 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. and Christianity, to which the slave trade is an insur- mountable barrier, would find an open door. David Livingstone. James Gordon Bennett, Esq. The other letter was published in tl e English papers, on the 11th of April, 1874, with the following prefatory note: — " Among Dr. Livingstone's papers received at the Fo- reign Ofl&ce was found a letter addressed to Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the New York Herald. Lord Tenderden has forwarded the letter to the London office of the New York Herald, and a copy thereof has been courteously sent to us by the London manager." From Unyanyembe, South-eastern Africa, April 9th, 1872. James Gordon Bennett, Esq.: — My Dear Sir, — When endeavouring to give you some idea of the slave trade, and its attendant evils in this country, it was necessary to keep far within the truth in order not to be thought guilty of exaggeration. But in sober seriousness the subject does not admit of being overdrawn. To exaggerate its enormities is a simple im- possibility, and the accounts given by Sir S. Baker of the atrocious proceedings of the W7nte Nile slave traders tally exactly with my own observations of the traffic in the hands of the Arabs and half-caste Portuguese further iiouth. The sights I have seen, though common incidents THE LAST YEARS OF LIYINOSTONE. 115 of the so-called trade, are so terribly nauseous that I always strive to drive them from memory; and in cases of other disagreeable recollections I can in time succeed in consigning them to oblivion. These slaving scenes, how- ever, come back unbidden and unwelcome, and sometimes make me start up at dead of the night horrified by their vividness. To some this may appear weak and unphiloso- phical, since it is alleged that the whole human family has passed through slavery as one of the stages of devel- opment from the lowest state of bestiality, cannibalism, stone, bronze, iron ages. Idolatry and slavery, it is said, are portions of the ascending education of mankind. The propt jators of these views have many interesting facts in their favour, and every educated man receives new facts gladly, though he may not be able to explain them or re- concile them to other facts previously known. He hopes that they may yet be proved to be portions of light from above. One must admire the industry of many ardent searchers after scientific truth — men really noble in their life-long aim-^i — following truth wherever that may lead ; and it must be conceded that real investigators are by no means bigoted. If our stupid human race still needs the outrageous schooling of slavery and the slave trade, H is in a bad way still, and one mighi almost vote for allowing it to die out. It may have been want of charity on my part, but I was so frequently asked when in England, " Would these Africans work for one V " Yes, if you could pay them." This answer produced such a palpable length- ening of visage that I suspected my questioners had been 1 ■, I. ii I 11 SI I Ii ! "si i ■;4l I i 116 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. ! i I I MP ! I'M speculating on getting them to work for nothing — in fact, be slave-owners. I fear that a portion at least of the sympathy in England for what simple folk called the " Southern cause " was a lurking liking to be slave-owners themselves. One Englishman at least tried to put his theory of getting the inferior race to work for nothing into practice. He was brother to a member of Parliament for a large and rich constituency, and when his mother died she left him £2,000. With this he bought a waggon and oxen at the Cape of Good Hope, and an outfit com- posed chiefly of paper tndchS snuff boxes, each of which had a looking-glass outside and another inside the lid ; ^hese, he concluded, were the " sinews of war." He made his way to my mission station, more than 1,000 miles in- land, and then he found that his snuff Vfoxes would not even buy food. On asking the reason for investing in that trash, he replied, that in reading a book of travels he saw that the natives were fond of peering into looking-glasses and liked snuff, and he thought thi^t he might obtain ivory in abundance for these luxuries. I gathered from his conversation that he had even speculated on being made a chief. He said that he knew a young man who had so speculated, and I took|it to be himself. We supported him for about a couple of months, but our stores were fast drawing to a close. We were then recently married, and the young housekeeper could not bear to appear inhospit- able to a fellow-countryman. I relieved her by feeling an inward call to visit another tribe. "Oh!" said our depend- ant, " I shall go too." " You had better not," was the reply, so dm tast md )itr an >iy. THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 117 and no reason assigned. He civilly left some scores of his snuff boxes, but T could never use them either. He fre- quently reiterated, " People think these blacks stupid and ignorant, but, by George, they would sell any English- man." We surely have but few men of such a silly type as this. I may now give an idea of the state of supreme bliss for the attainment of which all the atrocities of the so-called Arabs are committed in (^^Jentral Africa. In convei-sing with a half-caste Arab prince he advanced the opinion, which I believe is general among them, that all women were utterly and irretrievably bad. I admitted that some were no better than they should be, but the majority were unmistakably good and trustworthy. He insisted that the reason why we English allowed our wives so much liberty, wai> because we did not know them so well as Arabs did. " No, no," he added, " No woman can be good. No Arab woman, no English woman can be good. All must be bad." And then he praised his own and countrymen's wisdom and cunning in keeping their wives from seeing other men. A rough joke as to making themselves turnkeys, or, like the inferior animals, bulls over herds, turned the edge of his invectives, ar.d he ended by an invitation to his harem, to show that ho could be as liberal as the English. Captain S., of Her Majesty's corvette , accepted the invitation also, to be madti everlasting friends by eating brea.d with the prince's imprisoned wives. The prince's mother, a stout lady of about forty-five, came first into the room where we sat with her son. When young she must have 8 I I it I 118 THE LAST YEAIiS OF LIVINGSTONE. been very pretty, and she still retained many of her for- mer good looks. She shook hands, inquired for our wel- fare, and to please us, sat on a chair, though it would have been more agreeable for her to squat on a mat. She then asked the captain if he knew AdmiralWy vil who formerly, as commodore, commanded the Cape station. It turned out that many years before, an English ship was wrecked at the island on which she lived, and this good lady had received all the lady passengers into her house and lodged them courteously. The admiral had called to thank her, and gave her a written testimonial acknowledging her kindness. She now wished to write to him for old ac- quaintance sake, and the captain promised to convey the leiter. She did not seem to confirm her son's low opinion oi women. A red cloth screen was lifted from a door in front of where we sat, and the prince's chief wife entered, in gorgeous apparel. She came forward with a pretty jaunty step, and with a pleasant smile held out a neat little sweet- cake, off which we each bi'(jke a morsel and ate it. She had a fine, frank address, and talked and looked just as a fair English lady does who wishes her husband's friends to feel themselves perfectly at home. Her large, beautiful, jet-black eyes riveted the attention for some time before we could notice the adornments, on which great care had evidently been bestowed. Her head was crowned with a , tall scarlet hat of nearly the same shape as that of the Jewish high priest or that of sonje of the lower ranks of Catholic clergymen. A tight-fitting red jacket, profusely THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 119 in decked with gold lace, reached to the waist, and allowed about a finger's breadth of the skin to appear between it and the upper edge of the skirt, which was of white Indian muslin, dotted over with tamborine spots of crimson silk. The drawers came nearly to the ankles, on whith were thick silver bangles, and the feet were shod with greenish yellow slippers, turned up at the toes and roomy enough to make it probable she had neither corns nor bunions. Around her neck were many gold and silver chains, and she had earrings, not only in the lobes of the ears but others in holes made all round the rims. Gold and silver bracelets of pretty Indiij,n workmanship decked the arms, and rings of the same material, set with precious stones, graced every finger and each thumb. A lady alone could describe the rich and rare attire ; so I leave it. The only flaw in the get-up was short hair. It is so kept for the convenience of drying soon after the bath. To our Northern eyes it had a tinge too much of the masculine. While talking with this, the chief lady of the harem, a second entered and performed the ceremony of breaking bread too. She was quite as gayly dressed, about eighteen years of age, of perfect form and taller than the chief lady. Her short hair was oiled and smoothed* down and a little curl cultivated in front of each ear. This was pleasantly feminine. She spoke little, but her really resplendent eyes ^id all save talk. They were of a brown shade and lustrous. Like the " een of Jeanie Deans, filled wi' tears, they glanced like lamour beads." (" Lamour," Scotice for amber.) The lectures of Mr. Hancock, at Charing Cross I ; ir ^ 120 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. Hospital, London, long ago, have made me look critically, on eyes ever since. A third lady entered and broke bread also. She was plain as compared with her sister houris, but the child of the chief man of those parts. Her complexion was fair brunette. The prince remarked that he had only three wives, though his rank entitled him to twelve. The mother of the prince had just before this earnestly begged a gentle- man to remonstrate with him because he was ruining himself by devotion to three ! A dark slave woman, dressed like but less gaudily than her superiors, now entered with a tray an d tumblers of sweet sherbet. Hav- ing drank thereof, flo\irers were presented, and then beetle nut for chewing. The head lady wrapped up enough for a quid in a leaf and handed it to each of us, and to please her we chewed a little. It is sHghtly bitter and astrin- gent, and, like the Kola nut of West Africa, was prob- ably introduced as a tonic and preventive of fever. The lady superior mixed lime with her own and sisters' good large quids. This made the saliva flow freely, and, it be- ing of a brick-red colour, stained their pretty teeth and lips, and by no means improved their looks. It was the fashion, and to them nothing uncomely, when they squirted the red saliva quite artistically all over the floor. On asking the reason why the mother took no lime in her quid, and kept her teeth quite white, she replied that the reason was she had been on a pilgrimage to Mecca, and was a Hadjee. The whole scene of the visit was like a gorgeous picture. The ladies had tried to please us and THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 121 were thoroughly successful. We were delighted with the sight of the life in a harem ; but whether from want of wit or wisdom or something else, I should still vote for the one wife system. Having tried it for some eighteen years, I would not exchange a monogamic harem, with some merry, laughing, noisy children, for any polygamous gathering in Africa or the world. It scarcely belongs to the picture which I have attempted to draw as favourably as possible in order to show the supreme good for the sake of the possible attainment of which the half-caste Arabs perpetrate all the atrocities of the slave trade ; but a short time after this visit the prince fled on board our steamer for protection from creditors. He was misled by one calling himself Colonel Abco, who went about the world saying he was a perse- cuted Christian. At a spot some eighty miles south-west of the south end of Tanganyika stands the stockaded village of the chief Chitimbwa. A war had commenced between a party of Arabs, numbering 600 guns, and the chief of the district situated west of Chitimbwa, while I was at the south end of the lake. The Arabs hearing that an Englishman was in the country, naturally inquired where he was, and the natives, fearing that mischief was intended, denied posi- tively th»t they had ever seen him. They then strongly advised me to take refuge on an uninhabited island ; but not explaining their reasons, I am sorry to think that I suspected them of a design to make me a prisoner, which they could easily have done by removing the canoes — the ■I 2 'IC =jk i 1 :: 1 f ;i:!'l -m -m 4 122 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. island being a mile from the land. They afterwards told me how nicely they had cheated the Arabs and saved me from harm. The end of the lake is a deep cup-shaped cavity with sides running sheer down in some parts, 2,000 feet into the water. The rocks of red clay schist, crop out among the sylvan vegetation, and here and there pretty cascades leap down the precipices, forming a landscape of surpassing beauty. Herds of elephants, buffaloes, and antelopes en- liven the scene, and,with the stockaded villages embowered in palms along the shores of the peaceful water, realize the idea of Xenophon's Paradise. When about to leave the village of Mbette or Pambette, down there, and climb up the steep path by which we had descended, the wife of the chief came forward and said to her husband and the crowd looking at us packing up our things, " Why do you allow this man to go away ? He will certainly fall into the hands of the Mazitu (here called Batuba), and you know it and are silent." On inquiry it appeared certain that these marauders were then actually plundering the villages up above the precipices at the foot of which we sat. We waited six days, and the villagers kept watch on an ant-hill outside the stockade, all the time looking up for the enemy. When we did at last ascend we saw the well- known lines of march of the Mazitu — straight gP/S arrows through the country, without any regard to the native paths, and in the details of their plundering, for in this case there was no bloodshed. We found that the really benevolent lady had possessed accurate information. On THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 123 going thence round the end of the lake, we came to the village of Karambo, at the confluence of a large river, and the head man refused us a passage across, " Because," said he, " the Arabs have been fighting with the people west of us ; and two of their people have since been killed, though only in search of ivory. You wish to go round by the west of the lake, and the people may suppose that you are Arabs, and I dare not allow you to run the risk of being killed by mistake." On seeming to disbelieve, Karambo drew his finger across his throat, and said, "If at any time you discover that I have spoken falsely, I give you leave to cut my throat." That same afternoon two Arab slaves came to the village in search of ivory and confirmed every word Karambo had spoken. Unable to go north-west we turned off to go due south 150 miles or so ; then proceed west till past the disturbed district, and again resume our northing. But on going some sixty miles we heard that the Arab camp was twenty miles further south, and we went to hear the news. The reception was extremely kii^J, for this party consisted of gentlemen from Zanzibar, and of a very different stamp from the murderers we afterwards saw in Manyuema. They were afraid that the chief with whom they had been fighting might flee southwards, and that in going that way I might fall into his hands. Being now recovered I could readily believe them, and they, being eager ivory traders as readily believed me when I asserted that a continuance of hostilities meant shutting up the ivory market. No one^ would like to sell if he stood a chance of being shot. Peace, « If w I I ■• 't .; 'M i 124 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. therefore, was to be made ; but the process of " mixing blood," forming a matrimonial alliance with the chiefs daughter, &c., required three and a half months, and during long intervals of that time I remained at Chitimbwa's. The stockade was situated by a rivulet, and had a dense grove of high, damp-loving trees round a spring on one side, and open country, pretty well cultivated, on the other. It was cold, and over 4,700 feet above the sea, with a good deal of forest land and ranges of hills in the distance. The Arabs were on the west side of the stockade, and one of Chitimbwa's wives at once vacated her house on the east side for my convenience. Chitimbwa was an elderly man, with gray hair and beard, and of quiet, self-possessed man- ners. He had five wives, and my hut being one of the circle which their houses formed, and I often sat reading or writ- ing outside, I had a good opportunity of seeing the domes- tic life in this Central African harem without appearing to be prying. The chief wife, the mother of Chitimbwa's son and heir, was somewhat aged, but was the matron in authority over the establishment. The rest were young, with fine shapes, pleasant countenances, and nothing of the West Coast African about them. Three of them had each a child, making, with the eldest son, a family of four children to Chitimbwa. The matron seemed to reverence her husband, for when she saw him approaching she invariably went out of the way and knelt down till he passed. It was the time of year for planting and weeding the plan- tations, and the regular routine work of all the families in the town was nearly as follows : — Between three and four THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINOSTONE. 125 o'clock in the morning4.when the howling of the hyenas and growling of the lions or leopards told that they had spent the night fasting, the first human sounds heard were those of the good wives knocking off the red coals from the ends of the sticks in the fire, and raising up a blaze to which young and old crowded for warmth from the cold, which at this time is the most intense of the twenty-four hours. Some Psang smoker lights his pipe, and makes the place ring with his nasty screaming, stridulous coughing. Then the cocks begin to crow (about four A.M.) and the women call to each other to make ready to march. They go off to their gardens in companies, and keep up a brisk, loud conversation, with a view to frighten away any lion or buffalo that may not yet have retired, and for this the human voice is believed to be efficacious. The gardens, or plantations, are usually a couple of miles from the village. This is often for the purpose of securing safety for the crops from their own goats or cattle, but more fre- quently for the sake of the black, loamy soil near the banks of rivulets. This they prefer for maize and dura (holcus sorghum), while for a small species of millet, called mileza, they select a patch in the forest which they ma- nure by burning the branches of trees. The distance which the good wives willingly go to get the soil best adapted for different plants makes their arrival just about dawn. Fire has been brought from home, a little pot is set on with beans or pulse, something that requires long simmer- ing — and the whole family begins to work at what seems to give them real pleasure. The husband, who had IS ','\\ f ; -H I 126 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. i marched in front of each little squad with a spear and little axe over his shoulder, at once begins to cut off all the sprouts on the stumps left in clearing the ground. All bushes also fall to his share, and all the branches of tall trees too hard to be cut down are filed round the root, to be fired when dry. He must also cut branches to make a low fence round the plantations, for few wild beasts like to cross over anything having the appearance of hu- man workmanship. The wart hog having a great weak- ness for ground nuts, otherwise called pignuts {Arachis kypogoea), must be circumvented by a series of pitfalls, or a deep ditch and earthen dyke all round the nut plot. If any other animal has made free with the food of the family, papa carefully examines the trail of the intruder, makes a deep pitfall in it, covers it carefully over, and every day it is a most interesting matter to see whether the thief has been taken for the pot. The mother works away vigor- ously with her hoe, often adding new patches of virgin land to that already under cultivation. The children help by removing the weeds and grass which she has uprooted into heaps to be dried and burned. They seem to know and watch every plant in the field.. It is all their own ; no one is stinted as to the land he may cultivate ; the more they plant the more they have to eat and to spare. In some parts of Africa the labour falls almost exclusively on the women, and the males are represented as atrociously cruel to them. It was not so here, nor is it so in Central Africa generally ; indeed, the women have often decidedly the upper band. The clearances by law and custom were THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 127 the work of the men ; the weeding was the work of the whole family and so was the reaping. When the grain is dry it is pounded in a large wooden mortar to separate the scales from the seed ; a dexterous toss of the hand drives all the chaff to one comer of the vessel. This is lifted out, and then the dust is tossed out by another peculiar up and down half horizontal motion of the vessel — diflBcult to describe or to do — which leaves the grain quite clean. It is then ground into fine meal by a horizontal motion of the upper millstone, to which the whole weight is applied, and at each stroke the flour is shoved off the farther end of the nether millstone. The flour is finished late in the afternoon, at the time maidens go forth to draw water. The lady poises a huge earthen pot on her head, fills it full at the rivulet, and though con- taining ten or twelve gallons, balances it on her head, and without lifting up her hand, walks jauntily home. They have meat, but seldom make relishes for the porridge, into which the flower is cooked of the leaves of certain wild and cultivated plants ; or they roast some ground nuts, grind them fine and make a curry. They seem to know that only matter such as the nuts contain is requisite to modify their otherwise farinaceous food, and some even grind a handful of castor oil nuts with the grain for the same pur- pose. The husband having employed himself in the after- noon in making mats for sleeping on, in preparing skins for clothing, or in making new handles for hoes, or cutting out wooden bowls, joins the family in the evening, and all partake abundantly of the chief meal of the day before jif ^ [it ti m 1^.;? ill 128 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. going off to sleep. They have considerable skill in agri- culture, and great shrewdness in selecting the soils proper for difi'erent kinds of produce. When Bishop Mackenzie witnessed their operations in the field, he said to me, " When I was in England, and spoke in public meetings about our mission, I mentioned that among other things that I mean to teach them agriculture, but I now see that the Africans know a great deal more than I do." One of his associates, earnestly desiring to benefit the people to whom he was going, took lessons in basket making before he left England, but the specimens of native workman- ship he met with everywhere led him to conclude that he had better say nothing about his acquisition. In fact, he could " not hold a candle to them." The following is as fair an example of every-day life of the majority of the people in Central Africa as I can give — it as truly represents surface life in an African village as the other case does the surface condition in an Arab harem. In other parts the people appear to travellers in much worse light. The tribes lying more towards the east coast, who have been much visited by Arab slavers, are said to be in a state of chronic warfare — the men always ready to rob and plunder, and the women scarcely ever cultivating enough oi' food for the year. That is the condition to which all Arab cniaving tends. Captain Speke revealed a state of savageism and brutality in Uganda, of which I have no experience. The murdering by whole- sale of the chief Mteza, or Mtesa, would not be tolerated among the tribes I have visited. The slaughter of head THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 129 men's daughters would, elsewhere than in Uganda, insure speedy assassination. I have no reason to suppose that Speke was mistaken in his statement as to the numbers of women led away to execution, though the most intelli- gent of "OU Biganda Mteza's people now here assert that many were led away to become field labourers, and one seen by Grant with her hoe on her head seems to counte- nance the idea. But their statements are of small account as compared with those of Speke and Grant, for they now all know that cold-blooded murder like that of Mteza is detested by all civilized tribes, and they naturally wish to smooth the matter over. The remedy open to all other tribes in Central Africa is desertion. The tyrant soon finds himself powerless. His people have quietly removed to other chiefs, and never return. The tribes subjected by the Makololo had hard times of it, but nothing like the butchery of Mteza. A large body went off to the north. Another sent to Zette refused to return, and absent with me to the Shire for medicine, for the chief did the same thing. When the chief died the tribe broke up and scat- tered. Mteza seems to be an unwhipped fool. We all know rich men who would have been much better fellows if they had ever got bloody noses and sound thrashings at school* The 200 of his people here have been detained many months, and have become thoroughly uBvd to the country, but not one of them wishes to remain. The ap- parent willingness to be trampled ia the dust by Mteza is surprising. The whole of my experience in Central Africa says that ^t:^ m m ■ if 11 m 130 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. the negroes, not yet spoiled by contact with the slave trade, are distinguished for friendliness and good sound sePHC. Some can be guilty of great wickedness, and seem to think little about it ; others perform actions as unmis- takably good with no great self-complacency ; and if one catalogued all the good deeds or all the bad ones he came across he might think the men extremely good or exces- sively bad, instead of calling them, like ourselves, curious compounds of good and evil. In one point they are re- markable — they are honest. Even among the cannibal Manyuema a slave trader at Bambarre and I had to send our goats and fowls up to the Manyuema village to pre- vent their being all stolen by my friend's own slaves. Another wide-spread trait of character is a trusting dis- position. The central African tribes are the antipodes to some of the North American Indians, and very unlike many of their own countrymen who h*ve come into con- tact with Mohammedans and Portuguese and Dutch Christians. They at once perceive the superiority of the strangers in power of mischief, and readily listen to and ponder over friendly advice. After the cruel massacre of Nyangue, which I unfortunately witnessed, fourteen chiefs, whose villages had been destroyed, and many of them killed, fled to my house and begged me to make peace for them \rith the Arabs, and then come over to their side of the river Lualaba, divide their country anew, and point out where each should build a new village and cultivate other plantations. The peace was easily made, for the Arabs had no excuse for their senseless murders, THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 131 and each blamed the other for the guilt. Both parties pressed me to remain at the peace-making ceremonies, and had I not known the African trusting disposition, might have set down the native appeal to great personal influ- ence. All I had in my favour was common decency and faiiness of behaviour, and perhaps a little credit for good- ness awarded by the Zanzibar slaves. The Manyuema could easily see that the Arab religion was disjoined from morality. Their immorality in fact has always proved an effectual barrier to the spread of Islam in Eastern Africa. It is £1 sad pity that our good *' Bishop of Central Africa," albeit ordained in Westminster Abbey, preferred the advice of a colonel in the army to remain at Zanzibar, rather than proceed into his diocese and take advantage of the friendliness of the still unspoiled interior tribes, to spread our faith. The Catholic missionaries lately sent from England to Maryland to convert the negroes might have obtained the advice of half a dozen of army colonels to remain at New York, or even at London. But the answer, if they have any Irish blood in them, might have been, " Take your advice and yourselves off to the battle of Dorking ; we will light oui own fight." The Venerable Archbishop of Baltimore told these brethren that they would get ** chills and fever," but h ' did not :o . "when you do get the shivers, then take to your heelsj my hearties." When any of the missionaries at Zanzibar get " chills and fever," they have a nice pleasure trip in a man- of-war to the Seychelles Islands. The good men deserve hi i •Iff 132 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. it, of course, and no one would grudge to save their pre- cious lives. But human nature is frail. Zanzibar is much more unhealthy than the mainland, and the Government, by placing men-of-war at the disposal of these brethre i, though meaning to help them in their ^"^or^, virtually aids them to keep out of it. Some eight years ha^^^e rolled on, and good, Christian people have contributed their money annually for Central Africa, and the Central African diocese is occupied by the lord of all evil. It is with a sore heart I say it, but recent events have shown that those who have so long been playing at being missionaries and peeping across from the sickly island to their diocese in the main land with telescopes might have been turned to far better account. It may seem hard to say so, but sitting up here in Un- y.anyerabe in weariness waiting for Mr. Stanley to send men from the coa,st, two full months' march of 500 miles distant^ and all Central Africa behind me, the thought will rise up that the Church of England and universities have, in intention at least, provided the Gospel for the perishing population, and why does it not come ? If I might address those who hold back, I should say : " Come on, brethren ; you have no idea how brave you are till you try. The real heathen who are waiting for you have many faults, but also much that you can esteem and love." The Arabs never saw mothers selling their offspring, nor have I, though one authority made a broad statement to that effect, a nice setting to a nice little story about "a mother bear." He may have seen an infant sold who THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 133 re lor Ito it tio had the misfortune to cut its upper teeth before the under, because it was called unlucky and likely to bring death into the family ; but the general declaration from an iso- lated fact is like the assertion of the Frenchman who thought the English so partial to suicide in November you might see them swinging on trees along the highway. We have had foundlings among us, but that does not mean that English mothers are no better than she-bears. If you go into other men's labours you need not tell at home who reared the converts you have secured, but you will feel awfully uncomfortable, even in heaven, till you have made abject apologies to your brethren who, like yourselves, are heavenward bound. Let no one under-estimate the difficulties that must be encountered in beginning a mission in a new country. The belt of forest that lies round the island near the coast of Madagascar involved almost certain death to the brave pioneers who passed through to the highlands in the in- terior, without knowing that at a certain season it might be traversed in safety. But the London Missionary Society braved it, at a great loss in men and money, and the resuh is missioraiy success, which men of minor pluck iUay well envy. This continent must be civilized from wUbin ouLi','^ard&, the missionaries who will undertake the Tvork must possess a good deal of the Robinson Crusoe spirit. Men have felt perfectly willing to sacrifice every- thing, even their lives, for the sake of the Gospel, before they left home ; but as in one gallant officer's case I wit- nessed, he tempted to despair on breaking the photograph (i W. ia 134 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. of his wife ! or feel it to be an excmciating hardship to be without sugar for the tea. The boys who, on reading Captain Mayne Reid's books, would like to be " castaways," have the ring of the true missionary metal. Speke was delighted with the central countries he passed through as most inviting for Christian missions — Karagwee, for instance, with the intelligent and friendly chief Rumanyiki (spelled by him Rumanika) and Buganda (by the Arabs called Uganda), with a teeming and polite population under i' ps vain, cruel, but friendly Mtesa. This chief is the first ti a ^ Arabs have attempted to con- vert in Eastern Afrio; Ghamees-bin- Abdullah, a very good man lately killed here, taught Mtesa to read Suaheli in Arab characters, and his pupil gave him about 500 young slaves and an enormous amount of ivory. Ghamees was a Muscat Arab, and, like his class, was brave, honour- able and really kind-hearted. The country-born or main- landers, being mostly of slave mothers, have in general, neither honour, honesty, nor zeal. As marauders they are energetic enough, and, like the interior Dutch boers of South Africa, very brave, where the natives have no guns. A few slaves are operated on, taught a few prayfti-s from the Koran in Arabic, in order to be " clean " as butchers in slaughtering animals for their masters, and are then dressed in long calico nightgowns and tight fitting cotton caps. This is all the conversion that the system requires, and they become perverse liars and as unmitigated cowards as their masters. Their dress makes them all appear like great coarse women in thoir nightgowns. THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 135 When they come near danger the first thought of master and man is who can run fastest. The gowns are all tucked up ready for flight, and, as poor Ghamees-bin- Abdullah found with his eighty armed slaves, not a single bondman stands by his master. The whole of this upland region, being between 3,500 and 4,000 feet above the sea, is comparatively cold. The minimum temperature here in the dry season (our winter) is from 54 degrees to 62 degrees Fahrenheit, the maxi- mum 74 degrees, but it does not promise entire immunity from fever. Here that takes the place of our colds and consumptions, and is not so fatal if you are not lazy or compelled to lead a sedentary life. The land is undulat- ing, being, at the crests of the Twaveslow Hills, covered with bushes and trees, and showing here and there rounded, outcropping masses of the light gray granite, the general rock of the country. At the bottom of the troughs of the earthen billows, springs are numerous. The grass is short, and cattle thrive on it and are abundant. Grasses, which in the hot lowlands attain a height of five or six feet, here appear only one or cwo feet high. Wheat and rice are successfully cult Vated, and require only about three months to come to maturity. By following the Arab advice as to the proper seasons for cultivation, a missionary could soon renderhimself independent of foreign supplies. Coffee grows wild in Karagew, and is cultivated by the Manyuema. Sugar cane is cultivated everywhere. When laid up among the cannibals by irritable, eating ulcers on the feet, I had sugar cane pounded in the common i I 11 i 136 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. country wooden morfcar and the juice wrung out by the hands. When boiled thick it served well as sugar ; but I had no time to correct the latent acidity, and it soon spoiled. I had onions and radishes in abundance, though the country is so hot and low lying. The Arabs here have oranges, lemons, guavas, mangoes, pomegranates, pepows, sweetsops, onions, pumpkins, watermelons, and some begin to grow the grape-vine. I believe that all European vege- tables would prosper if care were taken to select the pro- per seasons for sowing, and the seeds were brought in brown paper parcels hung up in the cabin of the ship and never exposed to the direct rays of the sun, or soldered in tins or confined in boxes. AH very clever contrivances for travellers' convenience ought to be shunned. In general they are iieavy, burdensome trash, which any one who has learned to use his eyes and ears finds to be intol- erable nuisances. The only articles essentially necessary for a missionary of the Robinson Crusoe type that strikes me at present are a few light tools, a few books, clothes, soap, and shoes. I mention soap because I have not met the plant with the ashes of which my wife made soap in the South. Four suits of strong gray tweed served me comfortably for five years, and might have worn longer, for I saw Arabs who bought them from my people wear- ing them long after I had discarded them. An energetic man, who liked labour, would soon surround himself with comforts at a comparatively small expense, and he would soon fi^^ I that he had expatriated himself for a noble and soul-satisfying object. ■T THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 137 ' Having now been some six years out of the world, and most of my friends having apparently determined by their silence to impress me with the truth of the adage, " Out of sight out of mind," the dark scenes of the slave trade had a most distressing and depressing influence. The power of the Prince of Darkness seemed enormous. It was only with a heavy heart I said, " Thy kingdom come ! " In one point of view the evils that brood over this beau- tiful country are insuperable. When I dropped among the Makololo and others in the Central region, I saw a fair prospect of the regeneration of Africa. More could have been done in the Makololo country than was done by St. Patrick in Ireland. But I did not know that I was sur- rounded by the Portuguese slave trade — a blight like a curse from heaven that pn ved a barrier to all improve- ment. Now I am not so hopeful. I don't know how the wrong will become right. But the great and loving Father of all knows, and He will do it according to His infinite wisdom. A batch of New York Herald newspaper of 1871 has lately made the horizon clear up a little. Commercial enterprise, it seems, is daily bringing people geographi- cally remote into close connection. The tendency of hea- thenism is towards isolation. In the Manyuema country it keeps the inhabitants of one village apart from every other, except as was the case with our remote ancestors, when they went to fight. The head man of a hamlet of half a dozen houses walks unarmed around his plantation, with a long staff, carrying some patent charm on each m ■I II ■ ':tl I-.]! 'ff'l \W 138 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. end, and rejoicing in being called " Mologhwe," chief, or, say, " Free and sovereign citizen," and would be glad to see every other ruling blockhead slain. When we got a guide to conduct us through the dense dark forests that often lie between districts, he and others went on cheerily enough till within a few miles of the next human habitations, and nothing could induce them to go further for fear, they said, of being killed and eaten. Kindly in- viting us to lodge at their villages on our return, they departed homewards. Are there not vestiges of similar heathenism that linger in the passport system, in certain tariffs, and even in religious sectarian differences ? Crotch- ety Christians seem not to know that the followers of Jesus, of whatever name, are incomparably superior in morality to Moslems, Budhists, Brahmins or any other pagans. Morbid zeal to appear impartial sometimes leads to the assertion that the morality of the Koran is nearly equal to the morality of the Gospel. It is conceded that at one time Mahomet acted as a reformer in relation to idolatry ; but his orders to murder Christians are the "dead flies in the apothecary's ointment," and even the prophet was so ashamed of the immoral injuctions that he put the blame on the Angel Gabriel, and his followers continue to do the same. We are enjoined to be humble, and without doubt there is reason for a sober estimate of ourselves. Yet, look at the Suez Canal, the Pacific Railroad, the railways in India and Western Asia, the Mount Cenis Tunnel, the proposed Euphrates Railway and Canal of Panama ; telegraphic lines everywhere, and steamships on THE LAST FKARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 139 every sea, — all the work of Chiistians, and all combining to make the world one. The descendants of the Galileans are breaking down national prejudices faster than St. Francis Xavier, or the most devoted professional mission- aries. The influences brought to bear by one nation on another, though sometimes for evil, are mainly for good. The freedom of the slaves of the United States must tell towards the deliverance of 3,000,000 of bondsmen in Bra- zil, and something must result of good to this trodden- down, scattered, and peeled Africa, so that it shall not always remain the waste place of the world. I look towards benevolent statesmen and the public press as more likely to stop this East Coast slave trade than any other agency. Statesmen have for many years appeared to me as missionaries of the first water. Formerly I took them to be what some still consider them, as anxious only for place and power ; gentlemen, perhaps, but not over scrupulous as to the means em- ployed to gain their own selfish ends. I forbear mention- ing the names of the liviDg, but circumstances led to a more accurate knowledge of several — the good LordPal- merston, for instance, who gave me a widely different im- pression. For fourteen years he laboured unweariedly at what Wtos really doing good on a large scale — the suppres- sion of the slave trade on the West Coast of Africa. This climate has deprived me completely of all taste for politics ; so I think I can give an unbiased opinion that the great English statesmen, of my time at least, have followed as their chief aim the doing good on a laxge scale. Their un- tl fl I if 'if 140 THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. I ' i wearied toil, and apparently sincere desire, to do only wliat was right, inspired me with profound respect, and I shall revere Lords Palmerston, Clarendon, and President Lincoln for their goodness as long as I live. The work of the Joint High Commission shows that America has statesmen of the same noble character. Let our race continue to pursue the wise Christian course now so fairly begun, and let the low cunning, the smartness to hoodwink each other, in which old diplomatists gloried, go the dogs. It is refreshing to hear of the royal honours showered down on Mr. Seward in recognition of his great work in connection with Mr. Lin- coln. Dare we call to remembrance that when English statesmen laboured hard for the suppression of the slave trade, on the West Coast of Africa, they were often sorely thwarted by Southern pro-slavery men in posses- sion of your government. The Western slave trade is happily finished, and now that you have got rid of the incubus of slavery, it is confidently hoped that the present holders of office will aid in suppressing the infamous breaches of the common law of mankind that still darken this Eastern Coast. If the Khedive, with his Lieutenant Baker, stops the Nile slave traffic, he will have fairly earned the title of a benefactor of humanity. All I can add in my loneliness is, may Heaven's rich blessing come down on every one — American, English or Turk — ^who will help to heal the open sore of the world. This interesting letter, which, as we have stated, was found amongst Livingstone's papers after his death, was not published for two years after it was written. It is, THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 141 on the whole, the most valuable and instructive of the entire series. The information given of the country, of the habits and disposition of the natives, of the obsta- cles in the way of civilization in Central Africa, appeais in a more graphic and compact form than elsewhere. We may now give the doctor's letters to his brother, Mr. John Livingstone, of Listowel, Ontario. The latter is, as it were, a link connecting and associating Canada with the great African explorer. It will be seen that these two letters bear dates five years apart. Steamship Thule, at Sea, January 12, 1866. My Dear Brother, — The last letter I got from you, with the enclosure of money, I forwarded at once to Janet, with a request that she would send a kind answer to you in return. I was unable to write myself at the time, and, though I have been three months at Bombay, I had the same excuse ; and only now, when on my way to Zanzi- bar, have I leisure to give you a " screed," and I fear it may be the last for a good while to come. The vessel in which I sail was one of Sherrard Osborne's late Chinese fleet, and it is now going as a present from the Bombay government to the Sultan of Zanzibar. I am to have the honour of making the formal presentat' .x , and I value it, because it will give »'^e a little lift up m the eyes of the Sultan's people, and probably prevent them from any open opposition to my ' regress. She is very gorgeously got up. The fleet by the way (with this exception) still lies i :■- Ij !■ ' f iJ: f h i I ■I 142 THE LAST YEARS OF IJVINGSTONE. I , > rotting at Bombay. Our government let themselves in for a very large amount, by placing an embargo on the sale of vessels which might possibly have gone to the Con- federates as Alahamaa. For this an offer of £9,000 was made ; now it went for £3,000, and all the difference comes out of John Bull's pocket. Here where ^ could not act fairly to the United States they did it even at a great sacrifice. The Sultan of Zanzibar visited the Governor of Bombay while I was there. He was very gracious, and gave me a firman to all his people, and an order to one of his cap- tains to carry some tame buffaloes across. These are to be used as an experiment with the tsetze, and if they withstand the poison of that pest we shall have done something to open Africa. At present they havf no beast of burden in the country, and this is so like th( d ones which live in the very habitat of the tsetze that I have good hopes of success. My party consists of thirteen Sepoys of the old East In- dia Company's Marine Battalion. They have been accus- tomed to rough it on board ship. (This one is kicking &bout now in a way that might make " a grumphy grew.") They are likely enough fellows. I have also nine boys who were recaptured, and have been taught trades and other things at a government school near Bombay. They know a little of their native tongues still. These, with two mules and a little dog named Titani, constitute the party. I had many offers of service from Europeans, but have invariably declined them. Unless a man has been ■ THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 143 tried, he may become a nuisance, and entail the burden ou the leader of being ** a servant of servants " to his breth- ren. I proposed to go due west from the river Rovuma or Livuma, then turn north after reaching the middle of the continent. The objects are partly geographical, and partly to open the country to better influences than have prevailed for ages. I anticipate great good from the abo- lition of slavery in the States. The Spaniards and Por- tuguese are quaking in their shoes, in expectation that the new-bom zeal of the Americans will be hot. My book will not tend to allay the perturbation of the Portuguese. It has been favourably reviewed in the Athenceum and Saturday Review, so I can go away with a light heart. A nasty spirit is abroad in England, which may, if un- checked, lead to a war of races. We were very much bam- boozled by the Southerners, and our own newspapers. " They were the true gentlemen ;" the benevolent harpies who prevented the negro race from utter annihilation ; and the contempt they laboured to diffuse has received a great accession in strength by the late Jamaica outburst. That fellow Hobbs must have been steeped fiill of that nasty race prejudice, and nothing could be more disgusting than his mad ferocity when overcharged with a frenzied " funk." I don't suppose we have another case in history in which a man was hung for giving a fiendish look at the forty-seventh lash. I would have given one at the first. I think it will be found a wise dispensation of Providence that has allotted the elevation of so many freedmen to the Americans. They go at these things with wonderful ar- Mii U rf; i ') M«! ■< ' i m i-i 144 THE LAST TEABS OP LIVINGSTONE. I I ; dour. The United States Christian Commission and Freedmen's Bureau seem to be admirable institutions, showing true Christian zeal and wisdom, while, unfortu- nately, the countrymen of Clarkson and Wilberforce are becoming imbued with prejudices and hatred, which found no place in their noble breasts. A Baron Vander Decken went up the river Juba, which is just on the Equator, a few months ago, in two steamers, built at his own expense. When about three hundred miles from the sea he knocked two holes in the bottom of one — the other he had already lost. Then went ashore with his doctor. The vessel was forthwith attacked by a large body of natives, and several of the baron's people killed. His lieutenant, an officer of the Prussian navy, left at njgho in a boat with some of the survivors and es- caped to Zanzibar. From the way the letter was worded, the lieutenant seems to hav j ' skedaddled," but this is probably owing to his imperfect English. Nothing is known of the baron and doctor, but iw looks ill at present, for the natives would scarcely allow him to pass in safety, while going to attack the vessel. My love to Sarah and all the children. Agnes is in Paris and doing well ; Tom at Glasgow College, and Os- well at school ; Anna Mary with her aunts at Hamilton. Affectionately yours, Daytd Livingstone. P.S.— The baron and his doctor were killed by Somaulies, who aro bigoted Mahommedans. The servants, who were THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 145 Mahommedans, were allowed to escape and came to Zanzi- bar, where I now am (29th January). The officer who escaped seems to have acted wisely, and no blame can be fairly attributed. D. L. ToRONTOj Canada, August 19, 1873. The following is Dr. Livingstone's second letter to his brother, John Livingstone, residing at Listowel, Ontario Canaaa. It bore on the eiivelope, " This leaves Unyany- embe, March 14, 1872 " :— Ujiji, Nov. 16, 1871. My Dear Brother, — I received your welcome letter in February last, written when the cable news made you put off your suits of mourning. This was the first intimation I had that a cable had been successfully laid in the deep Atlantic. Very few letters have reached me for years, in conse- quence of my friends speculating where I should come out — on the West Coast, down the Nile, or elsewhere. The watershed is a broad upland between 4,000 and 5,000 feet above the sea and some seventy miles long. The springs of the Nile that rise thereon are almost in- numerable. It would take the best part of a man's life- time to count them. One part — sixty-four miles of lati- tude — gave thirty-two springs from calf to waist deep, or one spring for every two miles. A birdseye view of them would be like the vegetatJon of frost upon the window pones. To ascertain that all of these fountains united I t;! ■I 1:1 III m IT 146 THE LAST YEAP.S OF LIVINGSTONE. V I* with four gieat rivers in the upper part* of the Nile valley was a work of time and much travel. ^ Many a we&ry foot I trod ere light dawned on the an- cient problem. If I had left at the end of two years, for which my bare expenses was paid, I could have thrown very little more light on the country than the Portuguese, who, in their three slavery visits to Ca-^ambe, asked for ivory and slaves and heard of nothing else. I asked about the wat/crs ; questioned and cross-questioned A I was really ashamed, and almost afraid of being set down as afflicted with hydrocephalus. I went forward, backwards and sideways, feeling my way, and every step of the way I was generally groping in the dark, for whp cared where the rivers ran ? Of these four rivers into which the springs of the Nile converge, the central one, called Lualaba, is the largest. It begins as the River Chambezi, which flows into the great Lake Bangweolo. On leaving it its name is changed from Chambezi to Luapula, and that enters Lake Moero. Com- ing out of it the name Lualaba is assumed, and it flows into a third lake, Kamolondo, which receives one of the four large drains mentioned above. It then flows on and makes two enormous bends to the west, which made me often fear that I was following the Congo instead of the Nile. It is from one to three mUes broad, and can never be waded at any part or at any time of the year. Far down the vaUey it receives another of the four large rivers above mentioned, the Lockie or Lomani, which flo^s THE LAST YEAKS OF LIVINGSTONE. 147 through what I have named Lake Lincohi, and then joins the central Lualaba. We ha\.- then, only two Hnes of drainage in the lower part of the great valley— that is, Tanganyika and Albert Lake, which are but one lake-river, or say, if you want to be pedantic, lacustrine river. These two form the eastern line., The Lualaba, which I call Webb's Lualaba, is then the western line, nearly as depicted by Ptolemy in the second century of our era. After the Lomani enters the Lualaba the fourth great lake in the centml line of drain- age is found ; but this I have not yet seen, nor yet the link between the eastern and western mains, ft' At the top of Ptolemy's Loop the great central line goes down into large, reedy lakes, possibly those reported to Nero's centurion, and these form the western or Petherick^s arm, which Speke and Grant and Baker believed to be the river Egypt. Neither can they be called the Nile until they unite. The lakes mentioned in the central line of drainage are by no means small. Lake Bangwe6lo, at the lowest estimate, is 150 miles long, and I tried to cross it and measure its breadth exactly. The first stage was to an inhabited island, twenty-four miles ; the second stage could be se3n from its highest point, or rather the tops of the trees upon it, evidently lifted up by mirage ; the third stage, the main land, was said to be as far beyond ; but my canoe men had stolen the canoe, and they got a hint that the real owners were in pursuit and got in a flurry to return home. Oh, that they would ! but I had only my coverlet left to hire another craft, and the lake being four (=;■ f; ' i-Mi Hi 'I i ■.1|ii ii i 148 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. hundred feet above the sea, it was very cold. So I gave in and went back, but I believe the breadth to be between sixty and seventy miles. Bangweolo, Moero and Kamo- londo are looked on as one great riverine lake, and is one of Ptolemy's. The other is the Tanganyika, which I found steadily flowing to the north. This geographer's predecessors must have gleaned their geography from men who visited the very region. The reason why the genuine geography was rejected was the extreme modesty of modern map makers. One idle person in London published a pamphlet which, with killing modesty, he entitled, "Inner Africa Laid Open," and in the newspapers, even in the Times, rails at any one who travels and dar^s to find the country different from that drawn in his twaddle. I am a great sinner in the poor fellow's opinion, and the Tvmea published his ravings even when I was most unwisely believed to be dead. Nobody but Lord Brougham and I know what people will say after we are gone. The work of trying to follow the central line of drainage down has taken me away from mails or postage. The Many ema are undoubtedly cannibals, but it was long before I could get conclusive evidence thereon. I was sorely let and hindered by having half-caste Moslem at- tendants, unmitigated cowards and false as their prophet, of whose religion they have only imbibed tlie fulsome pride. They forced me back when almost within sight of the end of my exploration, a distance of between fcj* and five hundi'ed miles, under a blazing vertical sun. THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 1^9 I came here a mere ruckle of bones, terribly jaded in body and mind. The head man of my worthless Moslems remained here, and, as he had done from the coast, ran riot with the goods sent to me, drunk for a month at a time. He then divined on the Koran and found that I was dead, sold off all the goods that remained for slaves and ivory for himself, and I arrived to find myself desti- tute of everything except a few goods I left in case of need. Goods are the currency here, and I have to wait now till other goods and other men come from Zanzibar. When placed in charge of my supply of soap, brandy, opium and gunpowder from certain Banians (British subjects) he was fourteen months returning, all expenses being paid out of my stocks ; three months was ample,«and he then remained here and sold off all. You call this smart, do you ? some do, if you don't. I think it moral idiocy. Yours affectionately, David Livingstone. Frequent allusion has been made, in the course of this work, to the enmity of the slave traders, and their contin- ual efforts to baffle Livingstone by stealing his stores and destroying his letters. The subjoined letter, with an enclosure from Dr. David Livingstone to W. F. Steams, Esq., dated Unyanyembe, March 13, 1872, was among the number brought to the coast by Mr. Stanley, the Herald correspondent. The package was forwarded, as directed, to Bombay, to the firm of Stearns, Hobart & Co., in which Mr. Stearns was a partner at the date of Dr. Livingstone's n \ ■ W V'^: :■'« 160 THE LAST YEAHS OF LIVINQSTONE. departure for the coast cf Africa in 1866. Mr. Steams, who is an American, and son of President Stearns, of Am- herst College, is now eiig;aged in business in New York, hence the letter and enclosure had to be re-directed to that city, where they arrived yesterday from Bombay. The enclosure referred to in the letter is dated Novem- ber, 1870, from Manyema, Central Africa. In it a special and friendly reference is made by Dr. Livingstone to the American Geographical Society, with a request that Mr. Steams would communicate such extracts to that scien- tific body as he saw fit. Mr. Stearns has therefore with- held the enclosure from publication in order that he may first carry out the great traveller's commission to the American Society. Dr. Livingstone has been for many years a corresponding member of the American Geogra- phical Society. He was about to be made an honorary member of the body six years ago ; but, owing to the doubts of his being alive, this was not carred into effect. Unyanyembe, i. e., Sixty Days' Smart Marching from the East Coast, Africa, March 13, 1872. My Dear Stearns, — I have written to you before, but my letters were destroyed, because I have been considered a spy on the slave traders. The enclosure was penned long ago, among the cannibals, when I had no paper. I gave you an idea of matters then, but my own knowledge has been increasing, and perhaps the enclosed statements do not tally exactly with what 1 have to say now, and THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. 351 ^earns, .f Am- York, to that >Jovem- special > to the tiat Mr. ,t scien- ce witb- he may a to the or many L Geogra- honorary ag to the to effect. MART OAST, i72. before, but considered jfaB penned o paper. I L knowledge statements J now, and much of which will be published in my despatches. I have to thank you very heartily for all your kindness to me in Bombay and afterwards. ♦ * * This goes to the coast by Henry M. Stanley, travelling correspondent of the Ne-v York Herald, sent by James Gordon Bennett, jr., to aid your servant, and he has done it right nobly. Our consul believed the Banians, who are the chief slave traders by means of Arab agents, when they sa-id they would forward supplies of goods and men to me. They sent slaves instead of men, and all the efforts of slaves and masters were faithfully directed to seoiir^ng my failure. I was plundered shamelessly and forced back about five hundred miles from discovering the fifth great lake below the sources. But Mr. Stanley has supplied every want, and I now only need to re-discover the ancient fountains of Herodotus and retire. The Agra and Masterman's bank broke. The receipt for j£l,000 is in* Mr. T 's strong box, and he can draw out the deposit. All scientific expeditions are universally exempted from loss, even in time of war. Please tell them that I cannot enter into any creditor's aiTangement; they must return the whole deposit and interest accord- ing to the rules agreed upon by all civilized people, and I hope they will act in accordance with what is manifestly right. The buffaloes were killed for me ; but iho driver had a letter on his person, knowing that on its production his wages depended. This was the only one of forty sent. t •i m r 4 m Mtetr VV] JT 162 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. I \ The governor here, who is merely a low Banian trade agent, called by simple people the Great Sheikh Syde ben Salem, destroyed them and others to prevent evidence of plundering my goods going to the coast. I have been among the Philistines, my dear fellow, but am now strong and well, and, thanks to the Americans, completely equipped for my, concluding trip. * * * And believe me, ever truly yours, David Livingstone. Nobody, at this late date, affects to doubt that Mr. Stanley really relieved Dr. Livingstone and spent se\ '^ral months in his company.- It was far otherwise, however, when the Herald expedition first returned. Almost all the English journals and many American ones also were incredulous on the subject. Mr. John Livingstone volun- tarily came forward in Stanley's defence. His letter, to- gether with the remarks of the Herald, ought, therefore, to find a place here : — We publish in the Herald to-day a letter from Hon. Charles Hale, Assistant and Acting Secretary of State, enclosing a communication from Mr. John Livingstone, of Listowel, Canada, the brother of Dr. David Livingstone, forwarded to the department through Mr. Freeman N. Blake, the United States Consul at Hamilton. Mr. John Livingstone, while conveying to the Herald a,nd to the leader of the Search Expedition, through that ofiicial source, his congratulations on the successful issue of the enterprise, takes occasion to express " the most implicit THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 153 confidence in the statements " of both, and adds : — " I can assure you that Dr. Livingstone holds the American Government and people in the highest estimation, prin- cipally on account of the late abolition of slavery in the United States ; and I trust that his persistent efforts to check the nefarious traffic in slaves in Africa will be crowned with success." We presume that Mr. John Livingstone adopted this formal mode of forwarding his communication in view of the apparently stubborn un- belief of a small portion of the American press in the relief expedition and all relating to it, down to the point of incredulity in the existence of such a person as Mr. John Livingstone, of Listowel, Ontario, in the New Dominion. We are correspondingly grateful to that gentleman for the precaution he has taken to forestall the efforts of the enterprising journalists who have imposed upon themselves the duty of testing the genuineness of all the Herald correspondence on the subject, and who would doubtless have been speedily on his track to ascertain the authenticity of his letter had it reached us in the ordinary manner. As it comes back by the endorsement of the efficient Consul at Hamilton and the accomplislied Assist- ant Secretary of State at Washington, we presume it will be accepted, as a sufficient proof that the brother of Dr. Livingstone in Canada unites with the son of the ex- plorer in England, the British Foreign Office, the Royal Geographical Society, and Queen Victoria herself, in dif- fering with the profound authorities who pronounce the m, irr 154 THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. Pi 1 Livingstone letters forgeries, and deny that the doctor was ever discovered by Stanley at all. When the Herald fitted out its Livingstone Search Ex- pedition it had two objects in view: — First, to carry relief to the renowned explorer, in the confidence that the rumours of his death were unfounded, in the fear that he must be undergoing privations, and perhaps ill treatment in his unprotected condition, and in the conviction that it needed only energy and courage to follow the track he had pursued to find him, if living, or, in the sadder event to obtain certain proof of his death; and second, to secure the credit and* advantage that would assuredly follow suc- cess in such an enterprise. Any person who may be so disposed, is at liberty to reverse the order of these motives and to make the more selfish one predominate. We shall not quarrel with such critics, but shall be content to regard their judgment as the natural product of their minds. It is enough foi is that in both instances our most sanguine anticipations have been realized. The assistance that was fortunate enough to reach Dr. Livingstone in the wilds of Africa arrived none too soon. It found him baffled, wor- ried, defeated, a "mere ruckle of bones;" feeling as if he was dying on his feet, and with destitution iji that inhos- pitable wilderness staring him in the face. It supplied his immediate necessities, enabled him to resume the work to which he has unselfishly devoted his life, left him in com- parative ease and comfort, and secured the forwarding of supplies and help sufficient to insure him in the future against the disappointments and sufferings he had under- THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 155 gone in the past. We leave othei's to estimate the credit due to the Herald for its share in the enterprise so well carried to a successful issue by its faithful and daring leader. The honour we covet finds happy expression in Consul Blake's letter to Acting Secretary Hale — the honour that can be justly claimed for "the expedition institutea hy American enterprise." The discovery of Dr. Livingstone not only shows what individual American spirit can accomplish, but proves the real power of the American press. Independent American journalism will hereafter occupy a higher position in the estimation of foreign nations, and its usefulness, value, and intelligence will no longer be measured by the standard of partisan organs. Indications have already been given that the lesson will have its effect upon our own journalists, in the avowal of an independent position by some of our leading political journals. The unfortunate bitterness of the Pre- sidential campaign, it is true, temporarily checked this commendable spirit ; but now that the election is over, there is a fair prospect that many of our best-conducted newspapers will recognize the fact that the American press has a higher and more patriotic mission to perform than that of pei-suading foreigners that all our political parties are corrupt, and all our public men debased and dishonest. We regard the triumph of the Livingstone Expedition not as the triumph of the Herald alone, but of the whole American press, and not, the least gratifying of its effects is the impulse it has given to the promised improvement in the character of American journalism. I i ir; I I 'i »,■,;= I 1 156 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. There is one point, however, recalled to notice by Mr. John Livingstone, which, while it did not enter into any calculation of the probable issues of the Herald Search Expedition when the enterprise was set afoot, may prove one of its most important results. In all his letters — in those to the Herald, to the Royal Geographical Society, to the Foreign Office and to members of his family — Doctor Livingstone is earnest in his exhortations to the civilized world to stretch forth its strong arm over the suffering Africans, and snatch them from the horrors of slavery in the most hideous and revolting forms. " I trust," says .lis brother, " that his persistent efforts to check the nefarious traffic 'xi slaves in Africa will be crowned with success." This Christian object is no doubt uppermost in the mind of the missionary and explorer, who, in his sorrowing over " man's inhumanity to man," awards a crown of honour to the American people for their abolition of slavery in the United States, without pausing to inquire how far the blacks owe their liberty to the uncertain chances of poli- tics and war. The seed he planted in the letters sent home by the leader of the Herald Search Expedition has already borne some fruit, in moving the British Government to the more energetic action on the African coast recently announced in the Queen's speech to Parliament. But the subject will not be suffered to rest tl re We liave confix dence that philanthropic men in al .ns will s^on take it up and make an effort to acco. ()lish Pome practical work towards the uprooting of the inhume q system in the interior of Africa, as well as for its check on the coast. THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 167 There are indirect means, however, as well as direct means, by which slavery can be driven from the stronghold. The extension of trade into the regions travelled by Livingstone would do more than armies to remove the evil, and in this respect the Stanley expedition may have worked a good not anticipated for it. The success of one resolute, prac- tical man, and the plain statement of his experience, will tempt adventure more than all the essays that could be written in a dozen years. Despite his energy and perse- verance, Dr. Livingstone has been looked upon as a scien- tific explorer, and ordinary men, who would hesitate before they followed on the track he might indicate in search of profitable ventures, would strike out boldly in the path pointed out by such a traveller as Stanley. If Livingstone had remained in Africa two years longer unaided and unheard of, even if hp had lived to return home, the good work now hoped for would at best have been so long de- layed. But we even question whether the story he would then have had to tell would have worked any jractical good in this important direction. The scientific features of his labours would have engrossed public attention, and the every-day facts would have been overlooked in admi- ration of the genius and devotion of the explorer. Stan- ley's successful expedition is of an e^tirely different character. He brings back infonnation of the existence of a horrible traffic which is going on every day, and which can be stopped with comparative ease. He tells of riches in store for adventurers as tempting as the golden promises of the mines. He offers in his own person the proof that !l If : 1 !(.: i!!j in V- .. ■1: r ■ ill m 4 16S THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. the land can be travelled in safety, and that the natives are harmless and tractable. We shall be mistaken if his experience and his story do not induce many of those bold spirits who are always ready to strike for fortune through difficult paths, to seek the wilds of Africa for their easily gathered treasures. Who shall say how soon com- merce and civilization will stretch from the coast into the interior of the land in which Livingstone is to-day again shut out from the world, !^ m i I: : n ■ -i fi HI li \ t 160 THE LAST TEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. United States Consulate, -^ Hamilton, Sept. 3rd, 1872. Hon. Charles Hale, Assistant Secretary of State : — Sir, — I have the honour to enclose heremth a letter officifc-llj'^ addressed to me by Mr. John Livingstone, of Listowel, Ontario, attesting his confidence in the state- ments recently published regarding his brother. Dr. David Livingstone, and conveying expressions of gratitude that the expedition instituted by American enterprise and private liberality succeeded in the discovery of his brother, and in furnishing aid to enable him to prosecute his work, when all other efforts for this object failed. The public interest felt for the safety of this eminent exp orer, and the success of his researches, prompt me most cheerfully to comply with the request in the only way I can properly do so— by transmitting the communi- cation to the Department. In the personal interview I had with Mr. John Living- stone he seemed desirous to authenticate the genuineness of Dr. Livingstone's despc^otches, by offering for examina- tion the original letter enclosed herewith, which, in pro- per time, he would only claim again. I am, sir, your obedient servant, Freeman N. Blake, United States Consul. Sir Rodeiick Murchison was so warm and constant a friend of the great explorer, that it may not be amiss to insert such portions of the doctor's last letter as have been THE LAST YEAllS OF LIVINGSTONE. 161 made public. It possesses a melancholy interest, for be- fore Stanley had discovered Livingstone,and months before the letter was written, Sir Roderick had breathed his last: — -f Untanyembe, March 13th, 1872. My Dear Sir Roderick, — » * # I have written you a long account of the worry, thwart- ing, and baffling I have endured in trying to work my way through the cannibal Manjmema down the central line of drainage — Webb's Lualaba ; but it is not worth sending now. I got one letter from you in February, 1870, the first I received from you since one dated 13th March, 1866, but I could not doubt that you had written oftener. The loss of your letters has left me very much in the dark. I did not know that I had a penny of in- come till Mr. Stanley came, and brought a mail he seized for me here, after it had beei fourteen months on the way, and in it I saw the Royal Geographical Society's Report stated that £3,500 had been received for the East African Expedition, which I ventured to suppose means mine. [This is an error ; no such sum was ever given. — Author.] I don't know where that money is, or if it really is for me ; I wish to give my children a little, but I have to ask the Messrs. Coutts to inquire of you about it. I have been trusting to part of the price of my little steamer at Bombay, and determined, pay or no pay, to finish my work if I live. The want of letters was bad ; the want of goods was worse, and the only supplies that I ' *!: m m i'i 162 THE LAST YEABS OP LIVINGSTONE. virtually received were part of a stock I paid for, and with Dr. Seward, sent off from Zanzibar, in 1866, to be placed in dep6t in Ujiji. They were plundered by the governor here, but I got a share ; and it was a part of this share that I took the precaution to reserve at Ujiji, in case of extreme need, and found on my return lately. But for this I should have been in beggary ; for a lot of goods sent off by , through a Banian slave-trader, called Ludha Damji, were all sold off at Ujiji by the drunken half-caste tailor, Shereef, to whom they were entrusted. He must have reported that he had delivered aU, for the statement was made in the House of Lords that all my wants had been supplied. He divined on the Koran, and found that I wis dead, and then invested all in slaves and ivory for himself. There being no law except that of the gun or dagger, I had to wait in misery till Mr. Stanley came and proved himself truly the good Samaritan. Another lot of goods was entrusted to Ludha again, and he to slaves again with two free head men who were thieves. Mr. wrote on the 19th October, 1870, that they were all r mdy to leave, all impediments had been removed, and he remarked rather pleasantly, " that they were not perfect, but had expressed willingness to go ;" and then they lay at Bagamoio three and a half months, and no one looked near them. Near the end of February they heard that the consul was coming, and started off two days before his arrival, not to look after them, but to look after the wild beasts along the Ujiji road, and show them to the captain of a man-of-war. Here they refused THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 163 to go with Mr. Stanley to Ujiji, because of a war, which did not prevent him from going, nor him and me from coming, though it is still going on. I seized what remained of the goods after the slaves had feasted sixteen months. On the 18th ultimo one of the head men died of smallpox ; the other, non-perfect head man, besides running riot on my goods, broke the lock and key of Mr. Stanley's store, and plundered his goods too. Traders get their goods safely by the same carriers we employ ; but all our slaves are deeply imbued with the idea that they are not to follow, but force me back. My expedition is looked on with disfavour by all the Banians, who are really and truly the great slave traders of the country. But for the goods, guns, ammunition, advanced by the Banians, no Arab who travels could go inland to slave. It is by their money that the slave trade is carried on. The wretched governor here — the same who plundered Burton and Speke pretty freely — is their trade agent ; but simple people call him the " great Sheikh Syde ben Salem," fre. All my letters disappeared here. My sketches, maps, astronomical observations, &;c., sent before cholera began, were never heard of beyond this. When Shereef sold off all my stores, except a few pounds of worthless beads, a little coffee and sugar, the governor wrote to me that he had no hand in it. I never said he had. I suppose that the Banians did not sit down and instruct their slaves to rob and baffle me ; a mere hint would be sufficient, and then, when they reached me, they swore that the consul told them not to go with me — and he had paid them more I 'Ml •:| ! : I < tsii- f 164 TFE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. thaD double freemen's pay. Had they been with me and mutinied, I should have blamed myself as partly the cause, from want of tact or something ; but after they had been paid and fed for sixteen months, it was mortifying to find myself virtually without men. I have lost two full years of time, being burdened by one thousand eight hundred miles of extra tramp, and how much waste of money I cannot say, all through the matter of supplies and men being unwittingly committed to slave-dealing Banians and slaves. Mr. Webb sent nine packets and packages in the eleven months of his (Stanley's) trip. The sixteen months that elapsed from my last mail of November, 1872, included those eleven months, but Mr. Webb's messengers were not allowed to lie feastirg at Bagamoio, in sight of the consulate, for three and a half months, as mine were. Nor were the Banian low cun- ning and duplicity instilled into their minds. may probably be able to explain it all. Now I am all right. I have abundant supplies of all I need to finish my work. Some I seized from 's slaves, and Mr. Stanley gave me more ; so I am thankful to say that I am now better off than when I got a share of what I sent off in 1866. I feel quite exhilarated by the pro- «ipect of starting back as soon as Mr. Stanley can send me fifty free men from the coast. Don't imagine, from my somewhat doleful tone, that I am trying to excite com- miseration and pity. When Zanzibar failed me so miser- ably, I sat down at Ujiji o^jJy till I should become strong, ■iH THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINQSTONE. 165 (le and ly the ley had iifying )st two d eight raste of supplies -dealing ets and fs) trip, mail of but Mr. ^tir.g at id a half ow cun- may and then work my way down to Mteza. I am now strong and well and thankful, and wish only to be let alone, to finish by the re-discovery of the ancient fountains. In 's letter he talks hazily about Tanganyika and my going home from being tired, and the work being finished by anothei. You remember that I recommended him for the task, and he would not accept it from you without a good salary, and some thing to fall back on afterwards. I went unsalaried ; the sole hope I had was the statement in yours of March 13, 1866 : " Do your work, and leave pecuniary matters to Young and me." I have been tired often, and began again. I have done it all on foot, except eight days' illness with pneumonia and the trip down Tanganyika. I could never bear the scorn the Portuguese endure in being carried when quite well. I am sorry to have to complain of any one ; but the loss of time, useless tramps, and waste of money, are V^ily no faults of mine. K you share in 's idea that I must have been all this time trying if Tanganyika communicated with Albert Nyanza, I regret the destruction of my sketch maps and astronomical observations ; but in a former case an im- perfect sketch map was made the means of fleecing me, and in the lost maps I did my duty notwithstanding. Tanganyika is of no importance in connection with the Nile, except in a very remote degree. The interesting and great valley lies altogether west of it. In that valley there are five great lakes and three large rivers — Bang- weolo, Moero, Kamolondo, Lake Lincoln and another, which the slaves forced me to leave as the Unknown 11 4, ■,'■. 1 F it '' III m.. fh 166 THE LAST YEAKS O*' LIVINGSTONE. Lake. The large rivers — Bartle Frere's, otherwise Lufira ; Webb's Lualaba — the central line of drainage ; then Sir Paraffin Young's Lualaba,* with its name further down Lomame — all go into the central Webb's Lualaba ; Bartle Frere's through Lake Kamolondo ; Young's (I have been obliged to knight him to distinguish him from our friend the man-of-war's man) Lualaba through Lake Lincoln, and, as Lomame into Webb's, and four or five days beyond the confluence into the Unknown Lake, which, from the great westing I made, some 5*^ W. of Ujiji, must be part of Petherick's branch. This is the interesting field. The cor- relation of the structure and economy of the watershed with these great lakes and lacustrine rivers is the theme of my prize. When you heard that the sources were further south than any one dreamed, in the exuberance of your kindly heart you were going to award something to B , F , and A , for having dreamed about it. You had no idea that the watershed was seven hundred miles long and the fountains innumerable. I smiled, of course good naturedly, to think that you would need to divide the seven hundred miles among the three, and thereby show a great physiological discovery by your friends — the division of labour in dreaming. I am much more savage now than you, and any one who competes after I have given my own explanation will be ordered out for instant execution without benefit of clergy. I doubt if there is an Upper Nile basin. I found it a gradual • Sir ParaflSn Young was a facetious tenn applied by Dr. Livingstone to Mr. Jwnes Young of J^elly, the inventor of parafiine. THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 1G7 Lufira ; hen Sir r down Bartle re been r friend Lincoln, beyond rom the ) part of rhe cor- itershed 3 theme es were irance of thing to Eiboiit it. hundred niled, of need to ee, and )y your m much cmpetes ordered rgy- I gradual jivingBtone slope from the sources down, and I reached the altitude ascribed to Gondokoro. Mr. Stanley will tell you about what he saw of Tanganyika. I declined to examine it in 1869 because Ujijians wished to mulct me of the few goods I had, and there was no inducement to spend all in patching up Burton's failure rather than work out the great main line of drainage from the watershed. I earnestly hope that you will be so far recovered when this reaches you as to live in comfort, though not in the untiring activity of your earlier years. The news of our dear Lady Murchison's departure filled me with sincere sorrow. Had I known that she kindly remembered me in her prayers it would have been a source of great encourage- ment. I often thought that Admiral Washington and Admiral Beaufort looked down from their abodes of bliss, to which she has gone, with approbation. Sir Francis's words to the Arctic explorers, that they " were going on discovery and not on survey," have been a guide to me, and I am in hopes that, in addition to discovery, my dis- closures may lead to the suppression of the East Coast Slave Trade by Banian British subjects. If the good Lord of all gi'ant me this, I shall never grudge the toil, time, and trbuble I have endured. I pray that His blessing may descend on you according to your need, and am, &c. (Signed) David Livingstone. P.S. — Mr. Stanley will be a,t the Langham Place Hotel when this reaches you ; attentions to him and James Gor- don Bennett will gratify me. Agnes will keep my London * I if m lU n" 168 THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. box and my Journal, which I send home, sealed, by Mr. Stanley. D. L. The letters of Dr. Livingstone during his later years will have been completely given, so far as they are in the hands of the public, if we insert the text of the letter written by Dr. Livingstone to Mr. H. M. Stanley sometime before the great explorer's demise. Several passages which are omitted are of a confidential nature : — Lake Bangweolo, South Central Africa. My Dear Stanley, — I wrote hurriedly to you when on the eve of starting for Unyanyembe, and the mind be- ing occupied by all the little worries incidental to the starting of the caravan, I felt and I still feel that I had not expressed half the gratitude that wells up in my heart for all the kind services you have rendered to rae. I am devoutly thankful to the loving Father also for helping ou through all your manifold masika (rainy season) toils, and bringing you safely to Zanzibar, with your ener- gies unimpaired, and with a desire to exert yourself to the utmost in securing all the men and goods needed for this my concluding trip. I am perpetually reminded that I owe a great deal to you for the men you sent. With one exception, the party is working like a machine. I give my orders to Manwa Sera, and never need to repeat them. I parted with the Arab sent without any disagreement. He lost one of the new donkeys at Bagamoyo. I then put two strangers on THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. 169 the chain without fastening the free end, and they wisely walked oif with the bridle, bits and all, then suffered a lazy Monbasian to leave the cocoa someVhere and got five dotis at Unyanyembe as . Well, no one either before or after that could get any good out of him. Added to this the Arab showed a disposition to get a second $500, supposing we should be one month over the year, though he could do nothing except through my native head man. I therefore let him go, and made Manwa Sera, Chowpereh, and Susi, heads of departments at $20, if they gave satis- faction. This they have tried faithfully to do, and hitherto have been quite a contrast to Bombay, who seemed to think that you ought to please him. Maj wara, the drummer, has behaved perfectly — but slow! slow ! and keeps your fine silver teapot, spoons and Icnives as bright as if he were an English butler ; gets a cup of coffee at five A.M., or sooner, if I don't advise him to lie down again ; walks at the head of the caravan as drummer, this instrument being the African sign of peace as well as of war. He objected at first to the office because the drum had not been bought by either you or me. Some reasons are profound — this may be one of them. The fruits, fish, pork, biscuit, fowl, have been selected far better than I could have done. No golden syrup could be found, or you would have sent some. The tea was very nicely secured. Your wish for joy of the plum pudding was fulfilled, though it would have been better had we been nearer to Chambezi, where we spent Christ- mas, tc enjoy it. ^i ■ f ■i m ■ i ii i u !,■■■■ I rr ■Ij!: 1' 170 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. I keep most of your handsome present of champagne for a special occasion. One rifle was injured at Bagamoyo ; your other splendid rifle and revolver were all I could desire for efticiency. The fifteen-shooter cartridges are not satisfactory, but everything else gives so much satisfaction that I could not grumble though I were bilious. I thank you very much and sincerely for all your kind generosity. The new Zanzibar donkey came — lean, leg-sore and stiff"; so I left him with Sultan bin Ali. Your two coun- try beasts were in capital condition. Another you left died with all the symptoms of tsetse poison fully developed. He had the run of all the patches of cultivation around us, and perfect liberty ; but per.isihed, the first of his species I had seen die like a tsetse-bitten ox. The larger country animal died from the same cause, but had none of the symptoms, except swelling of the mouth and nose and above the eyes. He rallied twice, but when we left the south end of the Tanganyika, where all was hot and dry, we suddenly mounted up into the rainy season of Uixingu or Burungu, when the cold and wet acted as the natives told us informer years tliey would do on all our cattle that had the poison in their systems. I had found long before we had done with the exces- sive heats in the mountains that flank Tanganyika, that riding in the sun is more trying to the system than march- ing on foot. The perspiration caused by tramping modi- fies the effects of the temperature somewhat, as wakeful- ness does that of extreme cold. In the hurry of departure I neglected your advice to and the most dreadful cruelties told of Africar^s owo a vast deal to the teller. You and I passed the islet Kassenge^ where Africwa mothers were said to sell their infants for a loin cloth each. This stoiy was made to fit into another nice little atory of THE LAST YEAtlS OP LIVINGSTONE. 173 " a mother bear " that refused to leave her young. A child that cuts its upper front teeth before the under is dreaded as unlucky, and is likely to bring death into the family. It is called an Arab child, and the first Arab who passes is asked to take it. I never saw a case, nor have the Arabs I have asked seen one either, but they have heard of its occurrence. The Kassenge story is, therefore, ex- actly like that of the French fii an who asserted that the English were so foi'/i of hanging themselves in November, you might see them swinging on trees along the road. He may have seen one ; I never did. English and American mothers have been guilty of deserting infants ; but who would turn up the whites of his eyes, and say, a:, our mothers at Kassenge did, these people are no better than, or not so good, as she- bears ? Three of the Burungu chiefs have died since my first visit, and the population all turned topsy-turvy as the result of th*; elections. They elect a sister's son instead of the heir apparent — the heathen ! — because, say the sly dogs, the heir apparent may not be the heir real. New stockades Imd been built on new Hiias, cultivation on grass and fork's* lands necessarily small, and food could not be got for love or money. As I am of the old orthodox school, I disappi'ove of the elc'tjon of chief magistrates everywhere. When you find a goo I I ^\i r» j m iU 178 THE LAST YEAKS OP LIVINGSTONE. removed the entrails from the body and placed them in a tin box, which they buried inside of the fence, under a large tree. Jacob Wainwright cut an inscription on the tree in the following words : — DR. LIVINGSTONE, DIED MAY 4, 1873. Wainwright then superscribed the name of the head man, Susa. The body was preserved in salt, and dried under the sun during a spnce of twelve days. When Kitumbo was informed of the death of the traveller he had drums beat and muskets fired in token of respect to his memory. He allowed Livingstone's followers to re- move the body, which was placed in a coffin of bark. They then journeyed to Unyanyembe, in about six months, sending an advance party forward with informa- tion addressed to Livingstone's son. This party met Cameron, who, on receipt of the news, sent back the bales of cloth and the powder which he r/as taking to Living- stone. The body arrived at Unyanyembe in ten days after the advance party reached there. The whole party rested there during a fortnight. Messrs. Cameron, Murphy, and Dillon were there to- gether, the latter very ill in health, blind, and with his mind affected. He committed suicide at Kasakera, and was buried there. At Unyanyembe, Livingstone's remains were placed in THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 179 another case of bark^ — one of smaller size, done up as a bale of merchandise, in order to deceive the natives, who objected to the passage of a corpse. They were thus carried to Zanzibar. Livingstone's clothing, papers and instruments accom- panied the body. When on his sick bed the doctor prayed much. At Muilala he said : " I am going home ; carry my remains to Zanzibar." T. R. Webb, Esq,, United States Consul at Zanzibar, has received letters, through Murphy, from Dr. Living- stone, addressed to Mr. Stanley, which Consul Webb will deliver personally. ' The only geographical news is as follows : — ** After Stan- ley's departure Dr. Livingstone left Unyanyembe, rounded the south end of Lake Tanganyika, travelled south to Lake Bemba, or Bangweolo, and crossed it souLh to north. He then journeyed along the east side, returning north through the marshes to Muilala. All his papers were sealed and addressed to the Secretary of State, in charge of Arthur Laiug, a British merchant at Zanzibar. Murphy and Cameron remain behind. Before referring to the relief expeditions, to the second of which reference is made in the above telegram, we com- plete the narrative of Livingstone's last journey, as we find it in two documents, the oiio containing the substjince of an interview between Mr. Stanley and Jacob Wain- wriglit, one of the faithful servants who accompanied the I'f i 180 THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. body to England, and the other from Mr. F. Holmwood, of the British Consulate at Zanzibar : — -i^ Southampton, April 15, 1874. Among the passengers grouped around the gangway of the Malwa upon her arrival here to-day was Mr. Thomas Livingstone, eldest son of the doctor, and close by him stood a negro lad, apparently about eighteen years of age, dressed in a blue serge suit, with a field glass swung across his shoulder. This was Jacob Wainwright, Living- stone's faithful body servant, who had attended him in his last moments. He watched each arrival on board with eager gaze, and his eyes sparkled with joy as he recognized his old tutor, the Rev. Mr. Price, who had taught him, after his liberation from slavery, to read and write Eng- lish in Bombay. A group, consisting of Mr. Waller, Mr. Webb, Mr. Young and Mr, H. M. Stanley, was speedily formed round the boy, and, after each of the first named had addressed him, Mr. Stanley suddenly turned to Jacob and asked if he remembered him. No sooner had the boy's bright eyes lit on Mr. Stanley's face than a broad smile played over his stolid features and he stretched out his hand and said he perfectly remembered him ; and then commenced a conversation which was listened to with intense interest by all present, and which must have the effect of silencing for ever those persons, if any such remain, who afi*ect dis- belief in Mr. Stanley's story. Mr. Stanley began to ques- tion Jacob as to the last hours of the doctor, and upon the THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 181 1 iwood, 874. pj^ay of Dhomas by him of age, swung Living- m in his ird with 30gnized rht him, ite Eng- . Young and the sed him, ed if he ght eyes jred over and said lenced a interest silencing ■ect dis- to ques- ipon the evencs which characterized the march of the Relief Ex- pedition which Mr. Stanley sent to Dr. Livingstone after his return from Unyanyembe to Zanzibar. Jacob said that the doctor expressed great joy when, after waiting so many weary months at Unyanyembe, he saw the caravan of freemen which he had been anxiously waiting for before the resumption of his exploration. After giving him a few days' rest at Unyanyembe, Livingstone's party travelled southwest to Kasagera, Kigandu to Kesera, a district ruled by King Simba. While at this place the doctor had a relapse of his old enemy, chronic dysentery, which so weakened him as to compel him to take to riding a donkey. .Mr. Stanley here said, when heheard this, " He ought to have returned then." But the doctor did not seem to think that this attack Vas very dangerous, and accordingly resumed his march in a south-westerly direction to Mpatwa, thence into the valley of Rungwa, where he found many boiling springs ; then passed through Ufipa, and then Uremba, thence to Margunga. Mr. Stanley here asked Jacob Wain- wright " which way the rivers ran ?" Jacob said that they all ran to the right, which means to the west, into the Tanganyika. Along Moungo they reached a district called Kawendi, where a lion killed the only remaining donkey, the other having died in some of the oozy marshes of Uremba. Thenceforward Livingstone, continually growing weaker, was compelled to be carried in a ham- mock, but still urged on his way until he came to the headwaters which empty themselves into Lake Bangweolo, 12 in I i 1 ; i 1 1 t 1 182 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. if ''I Here, as he came to the lake, he made use of Mr. Stanley*s boat, which he had carried with him a distance of 1,100 miles. Be crossed over the Chambezi to the southern bank and attempted to push his way along the southern shore of Lake Bangu and towards the Fountains of Hero- dotus, reported to be at Katenga, where he thought ho would be able to recruit his health, but perceiving himself to be growing weaker he determined to push back to Unyanyembe, towards home, and full of that intention he turned his face northward. But on arriving at a place called Kitumbo he seemed to have become suddenly con- scious that his last hour had come, and he tried to settle there ; but the chief would not permit him, and he accord- ingly proceeded further north towards Kibende. On his arrival at a small village in the district of Muilala he was placed in his tent ; but thinking the sun was too hot for him, he ordered his men to build a hut for him to die in. His last entry in his diary was made on the 27th of April, 1873, thirteen months and thirteen days after Mr. Stanley had left him, wherein he describes how ill he feels and his inability to proceed further. After this entry Livingstone seems to have been too weak to have written more — seems to have resolutely prepared himself for death. The boy Majwara, expressly commended to Livingstone, as a personal attendant whose fidelity would be undoubted, declares that, dunng the intervals of expressing his suffer- ing by moans and sighs, prayers for his family were heard, and the word " home" was also frequently men- tioned. Livingstone refused to have any other man come tanley's .f 1,100 outhem outhern of Hero- ught ho T himself back to sntion he t a place 3nly con- to settle le accord- On his La he was >o hot for to die in. of April, r. Stanley |ls and his ringstone [e — seems dngstone, idoubted, lis suffer- ^ily were bly men- lau come THE LAST TEARS OF LIVmOSTONE. 183 into the hut to him, but each morning they all came, according to custom, to greet him with the words " Yambo bana," or " Good morning, master," one after another. The boy Maj wara made some tea for him and offered him stimulants, which, however, seem to have had no effect on him. At midnight of the fourth day of his illness Living- stone passed away quietly to the land of spirits. In the morning the boy Maj wara, hearing no sighs or groans, felt his master's face and found it cold, Then the solemn truth dawned upon his young mind that the " great mas- ter" was dead. The servants then seem to have held a consultation as to what should be done with the body. If they revealed the fact of the death to the natives it was feared that their superstition would cause them to prevent the servants from carrying their master away. So they kept it secret, and Farjalla, another of the men sent on by Mr. Stanley, proceeded to disembowel the body ; and, after leaving the village, hung the corpse in the sun to dry for five days, when they packed it in bark, and taking it with them proceeded on their long, long journey towards Unyanyembe. They did not arrive until the end of five months, many attempts to bar their passage having been made by the natives. Among the men whom Mr. Stanley sent to Livingstone, Jacob speaks in high terms of the good behaviour of the leaders Mabruki, Man wa Sera, Chow- pereh and Susi. Livingstone was heard frequently to remark how very good his " boys" were. He praised them very highly, and was accustomed to promise them on the march that when he should return home he would reward I lltil li IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I ;s iiM If 1^ M 1.8 1.25 1 1.4 1.6 .4 6" — ► p;^ <^ /2 ^. ? Hiotographic Sciences Corporation <^ ^v 4s^ ^ \\ . ' -^% >.\ ;\ 23 WIST MAIN STR6ET WEBSTER, NY. 145S0 (716) 8734503 ^ te f/j 184 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. them well. Jacob Wainwright was sent from Zanzibar to England by order of the Missionary Society, of which he was a pupil. Among the things brought by Mr. Thomas Livingstone, the eldest son, was the Winchester rifle which Mr. Stanley presented to Dr. Livingstone. Mr. Livingstone means to keep it as a souvenir of his father. The following is Majwara's Account of the Last Days of Dr. Livingstone, by F. Holmwood, of H. B. M. Consulate, Zanzibar ; it was read at the last meeting of the Koyal Geographical Society in London, and is as follows : — Zanzibar, March 12, 1874. My Dear Sir Bartle, — No doubt you will hear from several interested in Dr. Livingstone ; but, as I do not feel sure that any one has thoroughly examined the men who came down with his remains, I briefly summarize what I have been able to glean from a careful cross-ex- amination of Maj wara, who was always at his side during his last days, and Susi, as well as the Nassick boys, have generally confirmed what he says. I enclose a small sketch map, merely giving my idea of the locality, and have added a dotted line to show his route during this last journey of his life. The party sent by Stanley left Unyanyembe with the dpctor about the end of August, 1872, and marched straight to the south of Lake Tanganyika, through Ufipa, crossing the Rungwa River, where they met with natural springs of boiling water, bubbling up high above the ground. On reaching the Chambezi, or Kambezi River, THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 185 they crossed it about a week's journey from Lake Bemba, also crossing a large feeder ; but by Susi's advice Living- stone again turned northward, and reciossed the Kambezi, or Luapula, as he then called it, just before it entered the lake. He could not, however, keep close to the north shore of Lake Bemba, owing to the numerous creeks and streams, which were hidden in forests of high grass and rushes. After making a detour, he again struck the lake at a vil- lage, where he got canoes across to an island in the centre, called Matina. Here the shores on either hand were not visible, and the doctor was put to great straits by the na- tives declining to let him use their canoes to cross to the opposite shore. He therefore seized seven canoes by force, and when the natives made a show of resistance he fired his pistol over their heads, after which they ceased to obstruct him. Crossing the lake diagonally, he arrived in a long valley, and, the rains having now set in fully, the caravan had to wade rather than walk, constantly crossing blind streams, and, in fact, owing to the high rushes and grass, hardly being able to distinguish at times the land, or rather what was generally dry land, from the lake. Dr. Livingstone had been weak and ailing since leaving Unyanyembe, and when passing through the country of Ukabende, at the southwest of the lake, he told Majwara (the boy given him by Stanley, who is now in my ser- vice), that he felt unable to go on with his work, but should try and cross the hills to Katan (Katanda?) and Ill '!.'■' ■r hin Jil 186 THE LAST TEABS OF LIVINGSTONE. there rest, endeavouring to buy ivory, which, in all this country is very cheap (three yards of merikani buying a slave or a tusk), and returning to Ujiji through Manyema to recruit and reorganize. But as he approached the northern part of Bisa (a very large country), arriving in the province of Ulala, he first had to take to riding a donkey, and then suffer himself to be carried on a kitanda (native bedstead), which at first went much against the grain. During this time he never allowed the boy Majwara to leave him, and he then told that faithful and honest fellow that he should never cross the high hills to Katanda. He called for Susi, and asked how far it was to the Luapula, and on his answer- ing " three days," remarked " he should never see his river again." On arriving at Ilala, the capital of the district, where Kitumbo the Sultan lived, the party were refused permis- sion to stay, and they carried Livingstone three hours' march back towards Kibende. Here they erected for him a rude hut and fence, and he would not allow any to ap- proach him for the remaining days of his life except Maj- wara and Susi, except that every morning they were all desired to come to the door and say " Good morning ! " During these few days he was in great pain, and could keep nothing, even for a moment, on his stomach. He lost his sight so far as] hardly ^to be able to distinguish when a light was kindled,|and^adually sank during the night of the 4th of May, 1873. Only Majwara was pre- sent when he died, and he is unable to say when he ceased THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 187 to breathe. Susi, hearing that he was dead, told Jacob Wamwright to make a note in the doctor's diary of the things found by him. Wainwright was not quite certain as to the day of the month, and as Susi told him the doctor had last written the day before, and he found this entry to be dated 27th April, he wrote 28th April ; but, on comparing his own diary on arrival at Unyanyembe, he found it to be the 4th of May ; and this is confirmed by Majwara, who says Livingstone was unable ^o write for the last four or five days of his life. I fancy the spot where Livingstone died is about 11.25 degrees south and 27 degrees east ; but, of course, the whole of this is subject to correction, and, although I have spent many hours in finding it all out, the doctor's diary may show it to be very imperfect. I fear you will find this a very unconnected narration; but my apology must be that the consul-general it not well, and the other assistant absent on duty, and there is much work for me to do. Mr. Arthur Laing has been in- trusted with the charge of the remains and diaries, which latter he has been instructed to hand to Lord Derby. Trusting that you are in the enjoyment of good healt h and with great respect, believe me, dear Sir Bartle, your most obedient servant, Frederic Holmwood. To the Right Hon. Sir Bartle Frere, K.aB., G.C.S.I., &c., President of the Royal Geographical Society. On thQ conclusion, of the paper Sir Bartle Frere intro- f^M > 'i 188 THE LAST YEAllS OF LIVINGSTONE. duced to the meeting Mr. Laing, who brouglit the remains of Dr. Livingstone from Zanzibar. A brief account may now be given of the two search expeditions sent in search of Livingstone, under the auspices of the Royal Geographical Society. In the b d^in ning of 1872 this body issued an appeal to the public on behalf of an expedition intended to operate in earnest for the discovery and relief of the great traveller. The total amount at their disposal was very nearly £6,000 sterling, about £5,000 of which consisted of voluntary subscriptions. The society granted £500, and as over £500 remained of the .£1,000 granted by Lord Clarendon, the late Foreign Secretary, this was also made over to the fund. The party was placed under the direction of Lieut. Dawson, Lieut. Henn, and Mr. Oswell Livingstone, the explorer's youngest son. Of course, at this time, the suc- cess of the Herald expedition was not yet known. As we have seen, however, Stanley and Livingstone, during the months of Januaiy and February, 1872, were journeying together between Ujiji and Unyanyembe. This first Relief party took its departure on the 7th of February, for Zanzibar. The officers in charge of the Expedition were Lieutenant Dawson, Lieutenant Henn, and Mr. Oswell Livingstone, the explorer's son. This enterprise came to nothing after spending over £2000 in stores. The Geographical Society determined to equip a second party under the command of Lieutenant Cameron, R. N., Lieutenant Murphy, R. A, and Dr. Dillon, R. N. Sir Bartle Frere accompanied the expedition to Zanzibar, bound THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 189 remains o search der the letd^in >ublic on mest for Che total sterling, criptions. remained the late ihe fund, of Lieut, [tone, the , the suc- n. As we uring the urneying his first ebruary, pedition and Mr. nterprise n stores. a second I, B. N., N. Sir kbound on a mission to the Sultan, and there they arrived early in February, 1873. In September they arrived atUnyanyembe where the sad intelligence of the death of Livingstone was related to them by his attendants ; soon after the party arrived bearing the body. There was one tragical event in connection with the ex- pedition — the melancholy fate of Dr. Dillon. He was attacked by fever shortly after leaving Unyanyembe, and while under the influence of the delirium had committed suicide. The rest of the party arrived in safety at the coast in the spring of 1874. The following account of the embarkation of the travel- ler's body was transmitted by telegram and published in the London papers : — Suez, Sunday. The body of Dr. Livingstone, arrived per Malwa, left this morning for England, via the Canal. Dr. Living- stone died on the 4th May, at Muilala, in the kingdom of Bisa, of dysentery, after five days' march through the marshy country. The body, which was escorted by Lieu- tenant Murphy to ihe coast, left Zanzibar on the 12th inst., in charge of Arthur Laing, who proceeds via Brindisi with his papers and eflfects. The body will go to South- ampton, attended by Jacob, Dr. Livingstone's servant. The body was disemboweled and embalmed by a native, and was put on a bush to dry. Twelve days afterwards it was placed in two coffins. li :*' I fin! k: ^iM\ ^5 190 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. The following is the copy of a telegram forwarded to the London office of New York Herald : — " The Malwa arrived off Suez at eleven on Saturday- night, having Mr. Arthur Laing and Jacob Wainwright aboard, with the body of Dr. Livingstone. He had been ill with chronic dysentery for several months past. Al- though well supplied with stores and medicines, he seems to have had a presentiment that the attack would prove fatal. He rode a donkey,but was subsequently carried, and thus arrived at Muilala beyond Lake Bemba, in the Bisa country, when he said, ' Build me a hut to die in.' The hut was built by his followers, who first made him a bed. He suffered greatly, groaning ds^y and night. On the third day he said, * I am very cold ; put more grass over the hut.' His followers did not speak or go near him. Kitumbo, Chief of Bisa, sent flour and beans, and be- haved well to the party. On the fourth day Livingstone became insensible, and died about midnight. Majwara, his servant, was present. His last entry in the diary was on April 27th. He spoke much and sadly of his home and family. When first seized he told his followers he in- tended to exchange everything for ivory, to give to them, and to push on to Ujiji and Zanzibar, and try to reach England. On the day of his death his followers consulted what to do. They determined to preserve the remains. They were afraid to inform the chief of Livingstone's death. The servants removed the body to another hut, around which they built a high fence, to insure privacy. They opened the body and removed the ixxtemals^ which THE LAST TEABS OF LIVINGSTONE. 191 were placed in a tin box and buried inside the fence, under a large tree. Jacob Wainwright cut an inscription on the tree as follows : — * Dr. Livingstone died on May 4th, 1873,' and superscribed the name of the head man, Susi. The body was preserved in salt, and dried in the sun for twelve days, Kitumbo was then informed of the death, and beat drums and fired as a to)' en of respect, and allowed the followers to remove the body, which was placed in a coffin formed of bark, then journeyed to Uny- anyembe about six months, sending an advance party with information, addressed to Livingstone's son, which met Cameron. The latter sent back bales of cloth and powder. The body arrived at Unyanyembe ten days after the advance party, and rested there a fortnight. Cameron, Murphy, and Dillon together there, latter very ill — ^blind, and mind affected, suicided at Kasagera, buried there. " Here Livingstone's remains were put in another bark case, smaller, done up in a bale to deceive natives, who objected to the passage of the corpse, which was thus car- ried to Zanzibar, Livingstone's clothing, papers and instru- ments accompanying the body. When ill Livingstone prayed much. At Muilala he said, * I am going home.* Chumah remains at Zanzibar. " Mr. Webb, American consul at Zanzibar, is on his way home, and has letters handed to him by Murphy from Liv- ingstone, for Stanley, which he will deliver personally only. " Geographical news follows. After Stanley's departure thQ doctor left Unyanyembe^ rouAded the south end of 'Mm U 1- >i i-ii 192 THE LAST TEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. Lake Tanganyika, and travelled south of Lake Bemba or Bangweolo, crossed it south to north, then along east side, returning north through Ivlarungt. to Muilala. All papers sealed and addressed to Secretary of State, are in charge of Arthur Laing, a British merchant, from Zanzibar." The Mctlwa arrived at Southamptom on the 16 th of April, and was immediately visited by the friends and relatives of the departed traveller, the local authorities and representatives of the press. All the institutions of Southampton took part in the procession which accom- panied the hearse to the railway station. On arriving in London, the remains were taken in charge by a Committee of the Geographical Society. In order to be fully satisfied with the identity of the remains, which had been preserved in salt, an inspection took place at the Society's Committee Rooms, when the disabled shoulder, badly united at the fracture received from the lion on the eve of his marriage, plainly proved the body to be that of the lamented Dr. Livingstone. The Dean of Westminster at once offered to give a national recognition of Livingstone's labours in Africa, by tendering to his family the honours of a public funeral in the great Abbey. The procession started from the rooms of the Royal Geographical Society, on the morning of April the 18th, 1874. We extract from the London papers a full and accurate account bf the last closing scene when all that was mortal of David Livingstone was laid in the nave of England's mausoleum. Yesterday morning, Dr. Livingstone was buried in THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 193 Westminster Abbey amidst such testimonies of profound respect and mournful veneration as have seldom been shown for the fate of any one since the death of the lamented Prince Consort. There was something touching in the fate of poor Livingstone. His long absence — the loss of his wife in the heart of the wilds of Africa — the rumours of his death, which were only contradicted to be again revived, the search of the gallant Stanley for him, which at length set all anxiety and misgivings at rest, and then the last news of all — the death of the great explorer. None be- lieved in this, because none wished to do so, but kept on hoping against hope, till the terrible calamity of the fate which had overtaken the great man was found at last to be but too true. The fate of Mungo Park, of Clap- perton, of Lander, in no way excited any interest in their discoveries, or more than a passing regret for their loss. Africa was then an unknown land ; and, to say the truth, people cared as little about it as they knew. Lately it has been opened up to us like a region of romance, by Baker, Speke, Grant, and last, and greatest of all, the marvellous man who was to rest in England's sanctuary of sanctuaries. That the greatest of the great of this land lie beneath its sandy soil we all know, but among the mighty dead whose plain gravestones chequer its pavement, or whose monu- ments adorn its walls, there are none more distinguished for courage and moderation, for singleness of purpose and the simplicity of his great philanthropy, than David Liv- ingstone. How we have all followed him in his adven- tures from the time that the lion £rst seized him thiity '5 1 < ■ la . 4 ;: P i 1 u ' -if 194 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. years ago and left such fractures in the bones of his arm as led, even after the lapse of about a year after death, Lu the instant identification of the body by the great surgeon who attended him when last in England! There seems to be a sort of lurking suspicion among some that the body after all may not be that of the famous geographer, and this no doubt may be accounted for by the fact that so many rumours have obtained credence as to his dcth But if there is anything that was incontestably proved it is that the poor, emaciated remains which were yes^orday laid under the centre of the nave of our great Abbey, ',. ere those of the most famous explorer of any time, ancient or modern. Not only has Sir William I ergusson identified what he had done to the bones of the left arm, but with the body the faithful servant, Jacob Wainwright, has brought all the diaries, the instruments, the journals, and even the poor clothes in which Livingstone breathed his last. If these are not proofs of identity, it would be hard to say what is required. They are but far too certain. The Abbey had the usual quiet, solemn and stately as- pect, that makes, as Coleridge says, a rel: "on in stone. The choir had a line of black cloth down it, which was met by another from the door of the western cloisters, where the body was to be received, and in the centre of the nave was a black aperture, amid the black cloth, of the shape of a coffin, and just limmed round with a broad band of white. Without such a precaution one might have inadvertently slipped into it in the early gloom of the morning ; but as the day wore on during service, the ' ^H THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 195 sun came out in a flood of light, which, pouring through the stained windows, tinted the columns and ancient monu- ments with all the hues of the rainbow. The grave of Livingstone is in tlie very centre of the west part of the nave. The spot is in the central line, exactly half-way between the western doors and the choir. On the north side is the grave of the Countess of Clanricarde, and on the other side that of Thomas Campion, a noted w^^^h- maker. Close by lie Major Rennell, and Telford aiul Stephenson, the engineers. Like all the graves in West- minster Abbey, it is not a deep one, for ^here are nu vaults under the Abbey, nr?! the soil is so sandy that it is scar-ely safe to go f*^^ down. As it was, both sides of the grave had to be shored to prevent the sand from slipping. These supports, however, were hidden by black cloth, which gave, as usual, a most forbidding aspect to the large aper- ture, and one of most unusual depth. The central position of the grave made the whole ceremony far more conspic- uous than was the case with the funerals of Lord Lytton or Lord Macaulay. That of Dickens was absolutely pri- vate. Before the procession started from the house of the Geographical Society in Saville Row, there was a funeral service conducted by the Rev. H. W. Hamilton, Minister of the Established Church of Scotland. The pall was adorned with wreaths of flowers, one of them, composed of white azaleas and delicate ferns, having been sent by Her Majesty. The service consisted of the 39tlL Psalm, and three other short passages from the Bible — Mark xiii. 33- 37, 1 ThessalonianSjiv. 13-18, and Rev. viL 9-17 — ^followed n ^1 m ^1 /■'I i fi n 196 THE LAST YEARS OP LIVINGSTONE. by an extempore prayer. The procession was then formed, and passed slowly through the streets to the. Abbey. It was nearly twelve o'clock before those who were fortunate to have tickets began to take their seats. Without a single exception, all were more or less in mourning — that is to say, some in deep mourning, others only in ordinary black. The choir soon filled, and those beyond it made up a throng in the nave and the aisles. But all was as silent as the grave itself; not even the usual mild whisper of a waiting congregation went round. Earlier than all came a group of seven ladies, some very young, and all dressed in the deepest mourning. They took their places in the seats allotted to mourners in the southern side of the choir, just in front of the two black velvet trestles^, on which the coffin was to be placed. Each lady had with her a large chaplet of myrtles and violets or camelias and cypresses, which were ranged in front of them, and, in spite of their beauty, were, with their associations, a mel- ancholy-looking row. Towards twelve the Abbey began to fill, a,nd there was a faint though audible noise of the crowd which was waiting without to watch the arrival of what was most truly a melancholy procession. Soon after twelve o'clock such of the public as had tickets were al- lowed into the building, and filled the aisles, while others who were more privileged occupied the Sacrarium. By- and-by all spaces were filled, and even in the clerestory there were some lining the old monks' walk, and looking down with a curious aspect from rather a dizzy height on to the crowd below. At a quarter to one, the bells of THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 197 I formed, bey. It 'ortunate ithout a ttg — that ordinary made up as silent sper of a all came II dressed ;es in the [e of the •estleSb on had with elias and and, in is, a mel- ey began se of the arrival of oon after were al- e others am. By- lerestory looking y height bells of St. Margaret's began to toll. The bell of the / bbey, like that of St. Paul's, never tolls but for Royalty. The coffin was conveyed through Dean's Yard to the entrance of the western cloisters. Thence past the tipie-wom fretwork of carved muUions and pilasters, which were old and gray when Africa was only a name, and America an unknown sound. Through these cloisters it was reverently borne at a very slow pace.* The pall-bearers were Mr. Henry M. Stanley, who was foremost on the right, the Rev. Horace Waller, Vicar of Leytonstone, Dr. John Kirk, Mr. Edward Daniel Young, who had been his companions on the Zambezi ; W. C. Oswell, Esq., Major-General Sir Thomas Steele, W. F. Webb, Esq. (of Newstead Abbey), who had been his com- panions in South Central Africa, in the region of Lake Ngami, and lastly Jacob Wainwright, the coloured boy from Nassick School, who had been sent by Mr. Stanley from Zanzibar, to form part of the escort of the great explorer, on his last journey from Unyanyembe to Lake Bangweolo. Among the mourners, were Thomas Steele Livingstone, William Oswell Livingstone, Agnes Livingstone, and Mary Anna Livingstone, the dead traveller's children; Janet and Anna Livingstone, his sisters ; Mrs. Livingstone, wi- dow of the Rev. Charles Livingstone; Rev. Robert Moffatt, his father-in-law; Livingstone andJBruce Moffatt, young relatives of the traveller ; Sir W. Fergusson, Rev. H. W. Hamilton, Dr. J. Loudon, Mr. James Hannan, the Duke of ij- '4" L 13 * From the Wstkly JJitpatch. 198 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. Sutherland, Right Hon. Sir Bartle Frere, K.C.B. (Presi- dent Royal Geographical Society), Sir H. C. Rawlinson, K.C.B. (Vice-President Geographical Society), Mr. K. R. Murchison, General Rigby, Colonel J. A. Grant, C.B., Mr. J. Murray, Mr. J. Young, jun. (of Kelley), Vice- Admiral Baron de la Ronci^re le Noury (President French Geogra- phical Society), Dr. Hooker (President Royal Society), Mr. H. W. Bates (Assistant Secretary Royal Geographical Society), Lord Houghton, the Provost of Hamilton, Mr. J. B. Braithwaite, Mr. C. R. Markham, Mr. R. H. Major (Secretaries Royal Geographical Society), Rev. Dr. Stuart, Mr. T. Nicholson, Mr. Ralston (friends of the family), the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Mr. Duncan M'Laren, M.P., Mr. James Cowan, M.P., Mr. Josiah Living- stone, the Lord Provost of Glasgow, Dr. Watson (Pres. Faculty Phys. Glasgow), Baillie Walls (Chief Magistrate, Glasgow), Baillie Bain, Mr. Edwin Jones (the Mayor of Southampton), Sir Frederick Perkins, Mr. A. Laing, Mr. Elliott (who brought the body from Southampton) ; Mr. George Sauer, Mr. Edmund Yates, and Mr. J. H. Mac- Gahan, Correspondents of the New York Herald; the Duke of Manchester, the Earl of Ducie, Lord Cottesloe, Lord Kinnaird, the Bishops of Lincoln and Sierra Leone, the Lord Mayor and City Remembrancer and twenty mem- bers of the Corporation of London ; the Mayor of Notting- ham, the Provost of Dumbarton, the Provost and Town Clerk of Ayr, Lady Frere, Lady Rawlinson, Lady Strang- ford, Hon. Mrs. Forester, Mrs. W. F. Webb, of Newstead Abbey, Mrs. and Miss Goodlake, Sir Rutherford iUcock, Sir ;; : H THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. 199 (Presi- irlinson, r. K. R. ,B., Mr. Admiral Greogra- iociety), raphical wnilton, •. K H. Rev. Dr. of the Duncan Living- n (Pres. gistrate, ^ayor of ^ing, Mr. fn) ; Mr. Mac- \ld; the (ttesloe, Leone, j,y mem- [otting- Town [Strang- jwstead )ck, Sir T. FoweU Buxton, Sir C. Nicholson, Sir C. Russell, M. P., Sir W. Thompson, Sir Harry Verney, Major-General Sir F. Goldsmid, the Right Hon. Russell Gurney, M.P., the Hon. G. C. Brodrick, Hon. A. F. Kinnaird, Count Gosloff, Chevalier Cadoma (Italian Minister), Viscount Duprat (Portuguese Consul-General), Mr. Moran (United States Charg^ d' Affaires), Capt. Francis R. Webb and lady, from Zanzibar U. S. Consulate, Count Munster (the German Ambassador), General Scott, Admirals Codrington, CoUin- son, Sir W. Hall, Sherard Osborn, and Ommanney ; the Rev. Wm. Monk, who presented Dr. Livingstone in 1867 to the Vice-Chancellor in the Cambridge Senate House : Colonel Ouseley, Professor Brock, and a deputation from the Anthropological Institute, and other deputations from the Royal Botanical Society of London, National Temper- ance League, Social Science Association, African Section of the Society of Arts, Reception Committee of Southamp- ton, Church Missionary Society , London Missionary Society, British and Foreign Anti-Slavery, East African, and other societies. Most notable among the throng, as they carry the coffin to the grave, are the African travellers who constitute such a natural guard of honour for this dead man. Fore- most among them in right of gallant special service, and nearest to Livingstone's head, stands Stanley — sun-tanned anew from Ashantee — whose famous march of relief gives America the full right to celebrate at this moment, as we know she is doing, simulta-neously with England, the ob- sequies of the explorer. But for Stanley, Livingstone I i :!i It' -* I 1. 1:1 Hi m I m m 200 THE LAST TEAKS OF LIVINGSTONE. would have died long back, without aid or news from us ; but near him are Grant, the discoverer, along with Speke of the Nyanza ; Young, who was with Livingstone in old days, and who sailed the Nyassa Lake and the Shire River in quest of him ; Oswell, tanned and grizzled with hunting and exploring under an African sun ; and beside them Rigby, and Moffat, and Webb, the godfather of the Lualaba, and the faithful friend who buried Mrs. Living- stone in the sad day of the separation of husband and wife ; Colonel Shelley, of Lake Ngami ; "Waller, of the Zambesi ; Galton, Reade — what a band of Africani ! Such a gathering of sun-burnt visages and far-travelled men was never seen before ; and, indeed, the list might be lengthened with the names of a hundred other famous travellers present, who listen with wistful looks round their great dead chieftain, while Tallis's hymn is being sung, after the lesson read by Canon Conway. It is a well-known hymn — one which sings of ultimate rest after wandering — the only real rest for all toils and travels. These are the words : — " God of Bethel, by whose hand Thy people still are fed. Who through this weary pilgrimage Hast all our fathers led ; " Our vows, our prayers, we now present Before Thy throne of grace ; God of our fathers ! be the God Of each succeeding race. THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGS rOi^E. 201 )m us; Speke in old Shire d with beside ' of the [jiving- ad and of the l! Such 3d men ight be famous round being .t is a !st after travels. " Through each perplexing path of life Our wandering footsteps guide ; Give us each day our daily bread, And every want provide. " O spread thy covering wings around Till all our wanderings cease, And at our Father's loved abode Our souls arrive in peace ! " After the conclusion of this hymn, in which the congre- gation joined with much effect, the coffin is borne down the choir into the centre of the nave, where towards its western end the grave has been prepared. Here also among the dead lying around are ancient, far-travelled worthies — companionable ashes for those which are now to be con- signed to the same unbroken and majestic rest. Sir John Chardin lies nigh at hand, who saw Suleiman II. crowned Monarch of Persia, two hundred years gone by — a much- wandering Knight, " qui sibi nomen fecit eundo ;" and Major James Rennell, who wrote on the geography of Herodotus and founded the African Society. The pall is withdrawn, and the polished oaken coffin is prepared for lowering into the dark cavity which opens so narrowly and so abruptly in the Abbey pavement, while the cl\oir sing, '* Man that is born of a woman " to Croft's setting, and then the tender strains of Purcell's, " Thou knowest Lord." This is the very last that will be seen of " this our dear brother," and now indeed strong men are fain to bend their heads, and sobs, not from women only, mingle with the alternate sighing and rejoicing of the solemn music. i; v 202 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. ?V! The dizzy edges of the clerestory, eighty feet overhead, are crowded with people looking down from that perilous eminence upon the throng round the grave, and sha- dows are seen at many of the Abbey windows, of others peering through for a glimpse at the " last scene of all." As the precious burden descends the inscription on the plate may be seen — " David Livingstone, born at Blant3rre, Lanarkshire, Scotland, 19th March, 1813, died at Ilala, Central Africa, 4th May, 1873." And then there falls the " dust to dust;" and, looking at the solemn dusky faces of the two Africans, Wainwright and little Kalulu, Mr. Stanley's boy, who are standing among the nearest, the mind reverts to that widely-different scene a year ago, when Livingstone, after much pain, which is not spared to the best and kindliest, gave up his gallant, loving, pious spirit to his Master and Maker, and when yonder negro lad read over him the very service which has now again been so grandly celebrated for him, " With pomp and rolling music, like a King." The African — a simple-looking, quiet, honest lad — at- tracts many eyes as he stands by the grave ; he knows alone of all present the aspect of that other burial spot, and to him more than all this one must be impressive. But he takes his wonder, like his duty, stolidly — his thoughts appear lost in his master's memory. Alas ! that master did not dream in the supreme closing hour of lone- liness and agony, that his body would find such honour and peaceful repose at home. Of that and of all other THE LAST YEAttS Ot LIVINGSTONE. 203 -at- linows spot, •essive. y— his ! that lone- lonour other reward, however, he never thought while he wrought patiently and constantly, his appointed work for the sake of Africa — tramping, discovering, noting, hunting out the slave-hunters, and leaving himself and the results of his self-sacrifice to Heaven. And Heaven, which has given him this sweet rest in English earth, will assuredly bring forth fruits of his labour — of that we may remain well convinced ; meanwhile, the work of England for Africa must henceforward begin in earnest where Livingstone left it off. The service draws to its end with the "Forasmuch " and the following prayers, read in a clear, sustained voice of the deepest solemnity and feeling by Dean Stanley; and then once more the organ speaks the unspeakable — as music only can — sounding forth, " T heard a voice from heaven." But the very finest musical passage of all comes last in the beautiful anthem of Handel, " His body rests in peace, but his name liveth evermore." Tenderly and meditatively the first sad dreamy sentence is set, as though it were utterly by some spirit of melody looking downward into the quiet, silent haven of the grave, where all the storms and toils of mortal life are over. Radiantly and triumph- antly comes afterwards the jubilant antiphon, as though the same gentle spirit had conceived it, mindful of the sacred words, " Come ye blessed children of my Father, receive the kingdom prepared for you from the beginning of the woild." Last of all, there rains down upon the lid of Livingstone's coffin a bright and fragrant shower of wreaths and farewell-flowers from a hundred living hands; It Nai'i' 204 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. and each of those present takes a long parting glance at the great traveller's resting-place, and at the oaken coffin buried in tlio spring blossoms, and palms, and garlands, wherein lies " as much as could die" of the good, great- hearted, loving, fearless, and faithful David Livingstone. The following poems were intended as tributes to the memory of the deceased traveller. The first by Lord Houghton (Monckton-Miloes) ; the second appears anony- mously in Chambers' Journal., We may remark that the name Uala, also spelt Muilala is the name of the place at which Livingstone breathed his last : — ILALA— May, 1873! The swarthy followers stood aloof, Unled — unfathered ; He lay beneath that grassy roof, Fresh-gathered. « He bade them, as they passed the hut, To give no warning Of their still faithful presence but "Good Morning." To him, may be, through broken sleep And pains abated, These words were into senses deep Translated. Dear dead salutes of wife and child, Old kirkyard greetings ; Sunrises over hill-sides wild — Heart-beatings. THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. Welcoming sounds of fresh-blown seas, Of homeward travel, Tangles of thought's last memories Unravel. 'Neath England's fretted roof of fame — With flowers adorning An open grave — comes up the same "Good Morning." Morning's o'er that weird continent Now slowly breaking — Europe her sullen self-restraint Forsaking. Mornings of sympathy and trust For such as bore Their Master's spirit's sacred crust To England's shore. 205 HOUGHTON. LIVINGSTONE. It is finished ! we shall gaze upon that dauntless form no more : The dust that once was Livingstone alone shall reach our shore. He has perished where no aid was — not a kindred spirit near ; Not a word of friendly counsel to salute his dying ear ! Perished with his hopes unsated and his Work still incomplete, Af ric's burning sun above him and her deserts 'neath his feet ! Who may say what tender longings filled his lonely heart at last ? Thoughts of home and well-loved faces, visions of the sacred Past ! Yet we may not mourn the end that fitly closed so grand a life. Nor begrudge him rest so welcome, wearied with a glorious strife. T m ]]m m 1 i 'II ' if! '^'11 'l ;ji (■". 1 1^ K tf^ 206 THE LAST YEARS OF LIVINGSTONE. He has fallen as f Alls the soldier, scorning to the last to yield ; Sternly fighting, still unconquered, prone upon the battle-field. Not for him the gradual failing that the feebler nature knows ; Not for him the slow decadence which from meaner purpose flows ; His to labour ever onward in Humanity's just cause ; His to stride the lonely path where Duty led without a pause ; His amid the forest-wilds to dare an ever-present death ; For the welfare of his fellows to expend his latest breath, Never in the blaze of battle was a truer hero seen, 'Mid the swoop of hostile squadrons — and the sabre's blinding sheen. Such a life and such a death shall wreathe a glory round his name That shall brighten unborn ages and illume the scroll of Fame. yield ; e-field. nows ; )ose flows ; pause ; iing sheen, d his name Fame. APPENDICES. 1:1 .' APPENDIX I. A BRIEF SKETCH OF DISCOVERY IN AFRICA. IN the time of Herodotus, and long afterward, the general opinion was that Africa did not extend so far south as the equatorial line. There existed, however, a tradition that Africa had been circumnavigated by the Phoenicians about six centi, • ies before the Christian era ; but, if the southern promontory of Africa had really been reached, it is difficult to conceive how so erroneous an impression could have prevailed as to the extent of the continent. It is, therefore, most probable that such a voy- age had never succeeded ; and, indeed, the circumstances under which it was prosecuted, according to the accounts which have come down to us, only add an additional fea- ture of improbability to the story. Turning to modem times, we find, at the commencement of the fifteenth cen- tury, that Europeans were only acquainted with that portion of the western coast of Africa which extends from the Straits of Gibraltar to Cape Nun, — a line of coast not exceeding six hundred miles in length. The Portuguese had the honour of extending this limited acquaintance with the outline of the African continent. Their zeal for discovery in this direction became truly a national passion, and the sovereigns and princes of Portugal prosecuted their object with singular enthusiasm. By the year 1471 the "I 1 i A I.; 4 210 APPENDIX I. Portuguese navigators had advanced 2^° south of the Line. In 1484, Diego Cam reached 22° south latitude. The next navigator, Bartholomew Diaz, was commanded to pursue his course southward until he should reach the extremity of Africa ; and to him belongs the honour of discovering the Cape of Good Hope, the name given to it at the time by the King of Portugal, though Diaz had named it Cabo Tormentoso (the Cape of Tempests). The Cape of Good Hope was at first frequently called the Lion of the Sea, and also the head of Africa. In 1497, Vasco de Gama set forth with the intention of reaching India by sailing round the Cape of Good Hope. After doubling the Cape, he pursued his course along the eastern coast of Africa, and then stretched across the ocean to India. The Por- tuguese had now ascertained the general outline of Africa and the position of many of the principal rivers and head- lands. With the exception of a portion of the coast from the Straits of Bab el Mandeb to Mukdeesha, situated in 3° north latitude, the whole of the coast had been traced by the Portuguese, and their zeal and enthusiasm, which had at one period been treated with ridicule, were at length triumphantly rewarded, about fom* years before Columbus had achieved his great discovery, which, with that of Vasco de Gama, amply repaid a century of specu- lative enterprise. This interesting combination of events had a sensible effect upon the general mind of Europe. The Portuguese soon formed settlements in Africa, and began to acquire a knowledge of the interior of the coun- APPENDIX I. 211 try. They were followed by the French, and afterward by the English and the Dutch. It is chiefly within the last fifty years that discoveries in the interior of Africa have been perseveringly and sys- tematically prosecuted. In 1788, a society was established in London with the design of encouraging men of enter- prise to explore the African continent. John Ledyard, an American, was the first person selected by the African Association for this task ; and he set out in 1788 with the intention of traversing the widest part of the continent from east to west, in the supposed latitude of the river Niger. Unfortunately, he was seized at Cairo with a fever of which he died. He possessed few scientific ac' quircments ; but his vigour and powers of endurance, men- tal and bodily — his indifference to pain, hardship, and fatigue, would have rendered him an admirable geographi- cal pioneer. " I have known," he said, shortly before leaving England for the last time, " hunger and nakedness to the utmost extremity of human suffering : I have known what it is to have food given as charity to a madman, and have at times been obliged to shelter myself under the miseries of that character to a^oid a heavier calamity. My distresses have been greater than I have ever owned, or ever will own, to any man. Such evils are terrible to bear, but they never yet had the power to turn me from my purpose." Such was the indomitable energy of this man, tho first of a long list of victims in the cause of African discovery. Mr. Lucas, who was despatched by the Association to supply the place of Ledyard, was com- m tm l!;!^i :!;, . ^t I 212 APPENDIX I. pelled to return home in consequence of several of the countries through "whieh he would have to pass being en- gaged in hostilities. In 1790, Major Houghton, an officer who was acquainted with the customs of the Moors and Negroes, proceeded to Africa under the auspices of the Association, and had made cj>nsiderable progress in the interior, when, after having been treacherously plundered and left in the desert, where he endured severe privations, he reached Jarra, and died there in September, 1791, it being strongly suspected that he was murdered. The next individual on whom the Association fixed was Mungo Park, who proceeded to the river Gambia in 1795, and thence set out into the interior. The great object accom- plished during his journey was that of successfully ex- ploring the banks of the Niger, which had previously been considered identical with the river Senegal. In 1804, Park set out upon his second journey, which was under- taken at the expense of the Government. The plan of former travellers had been to accompany the caravans from one part of the country to another ; but in this expedition Park required a party of thirty-six Europeans, six of whom were to be seamen and the remainder soldiers, it being his intention, on reaching the Niger, to build two vessels, and to follow with his party the course of the river. If the Congo and the Niger were the same stream, as was then supposed, he anticipated little difficulty in his enterprise ; but if, as was also maintained, the Niger ter- minated in swamps t.nd morasses, many hardships and dangers were expected in their subsequent progress. Park APPENDIX 1. 213 of the jing en- Q officer lors and 3 of the is in the tundered ivations, 1T91, it The next 5 Mungo 795, and et accom- sfully ex- usly been In 1804, under- plan of ans from ixpedition lS, six of Idiers, it (uild two ;e of the lO stream, ilty in his Niger ter- [ships and •ess. Park at length reached the Niger, accompanied only by seven of his party, all of whom were in a state of great weak- ness from the effects of the climate. They built one vessel, and, on the 17th November, 1805, were ready to embark on the river, previous to which Park sent despatches to England. His party was now reduced to five, his brother- in-law having died a few days before. Park's spirit, how- ever, remained undaunted. " Though all the Europeans who are with me should die," said he, in his last letters to England, " and though I myself were half dead, I would still persevere ; and, if I could not succeed in the object of my journey, I would at least die in the Niger." He em- barked, therefore, with the intention of sailing down the river to its mouth, wherever that might be ; but, after passing Timbuctoo and several other cities, he was killed on the Niger, at a place called Boussa, a short distance be- low Yaouri. No part of his journal after he left Sansand- mg has ever been recovered. In 1797, the African Association had engaged Mr. Hornemann, a German, who left Cairo in September, 1798, with the intention of carrying into effect the objects of the Association by proceeding as far southward and west- ward as he could get. In his last despatches he expressed himself confident in being able to succeed in reaching a greater distance into the interior than any other European traveller ; but, after reaching Bomou, no certain inteUi- gence was ever afterwards heard concerning him. Mr. Hornemann learned many particulars which had not be- fore been known in Europe respecting the countries to the 14 V I f ^■■1 w III! "ii I ■ 1/ iv";ij 214 APPENDIX I. east of Timbuctoo. Mr. Nicholls, who was next engaged, arrived in the Gulf of Benin in November, 1804, and died soon afterward of the fever of the country. Another Ger- man, Boentzen, was next sent to Africa. He had bestowed extraordinary pains in making himself acquainted with the prevailing language and, throwing off his costume, proceeded in the character of a Mussulman, but unhappily was murdered by his guides on his way to Soudan. The next traveller sent out by the Association was Burck- hardt, a Swiss. He spent several years in acquiring a knowledge of the language and customs of the people he intended to visit, and, like Boentzen, assumed the charac- teristics of a Mussulman. He died at Cairo in 1817, his travels having been chiefly confined to the Abyssinian countries. In 1816, an expedition was sent out by the Government, under the command of Captain Tuckey, to the river Congo, under the idea, in which Park coincided, that it and the Niger Were the same river. Captain Tuckey ascended the Congo for about two hundred and eighty miles. At the same time. Major Peddie, and, after his death. Captain Campbell, proceeded from the mouth of the river Senegal as far as Kakundy. In 1817, Mr. Bowdich explored the countries adjoining Cape Coast Castle. In 1820, Mr. Jackson communicated an interesting ac- count of the territories of Timbuctoo and Houssa, from details which he had collected from a Mussulman mer- chant. In 1819 and in 1821, the expeditions of Messrs. Ritchie and Lyon, and of Major Laing, showed the strong APPENDIX I. 215 igaged, ad died ler Ger- jstowed >d with ostume, happily a. The Burck- iiiring a eople he ) charac- L817, his )yssinian Brnment, he river [, that it Tuckey eighty fter his ihofthe lowdich Castle, iting ac- m, from ian mer- Messrs. ,e strong and general interest on the subject of African geography. In 1822, the important expedition under Major Denham and Lieut. Clapperton set forth. After crossing the Desert, the travellers reached the great inland sea or lake called the Tchad, the coasts of which to the west and south were examined by Major Denham. This lake, from four hun- dred to six hundred feet above the level of the sea, is one of the most remarkable features in the physical geography of Africa. Lieut. Clapperton, in the mean time, proceeded through the kingdom of Bornou and the country of the Fellatahs to Sockatoo, situated on a stream supposed to run into the Niger. A great mass of information respecting the countries eastward of Timbuctoo was the result of the expedition. As to the course of the Niger, very little in- telligence was obtained which could be depended upon : the natives stated that it flowed into the sea at Funda, though what place on the coast was meant still remained a conjecture. Soon after his return to England, Clapper- ton was sent out by the Government to conduct a new expedition, and was directed to proceed to the scene of his former adventures. Having reached the Niger at Boussa, where Park was killed, he passed through various coun- tries, and reached Sockatoo, where he died ; and Lander, his friend and servant, commenced his return to England with Clapperton's journals and papers. Major Laing, meanwhile, had visited Timbuctoo, and transmitted home accounts of this famous city, where he spent some weeks ; but on his return he was murdered, and his papers have never been recovered. We have not space to aUude to the :i-l il I- -il \M 216 APPENDIX I. '*'■ I many well-executed expeditions which have proceeded from Cape Town for the purpose of exploring South Africa, but have confined ourselves to those exertions which had for their object the elucidation of the question concerning the course and termination of the Niger, and were conse- quently directed to Central Africa. The termination of the Niger had long been one of the most interesting problems in African geography, and we have now reached the period when, on this point, facts were substituted for conjecture and hypothesis. The river had first been seen by Park, near Sego, the capital of Bambarra. It was called by the natives the Joliba, or " Great Water ;" and Park described it as "flowing slowly to the eastward." He followed the course of the river for about three hundred miles, and was told that a journey of ten days would bring him to its source. At Sockatoo, Lieut. Clapperton found that it was called the Quorra, by which name it is known in the most recent maps, it hav- ing received the name of the Niger in the first instance, from its supposed identity with the Nigir of the ancients. The want of information concerning the course and ter- mination of this mysterious river, until determined by actually proceeding down its channel to the sea, was, as may be supposed, a fruitful source of speculation among geographers. By some it was supposed to flow into the Nile ; others imagined that a great central lake received its wa! rs. Major Rennell, an authority of great weight, cm:-: ' vliQ conclusion that, after passing Timbuctoo, the Ni^5i k ved a thousand miles in an easterly direction, APPENDIX I. 217 and terminated in a lake or swamp ; others supported the opinion that its waters were lost in the arid sands of the Desert ; while the Congo was said by many to be its out- let. Major Laing, by ascertaining the source of the Niger to be not more than sixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, proved that it could not flow into the Nile ; and Denham and Clapperton demonstrated that it did not, as had been supposed, discharge itself into the Lake of Bornou. Richard and John Lander, in 1830, under the auspices of the British Government, solved the long-disputed pro- blem of the course of the Niger by sailing down on its waters from Boussa to the ocean, where it was found to terminate in what was called the Nun, or First Brass Kiver, from the negro town of Brass, situated oij its banks. An expedition under the auspices of the British Govern- ment, and headed by Dr. Henry Barth, attended y Dr. Overberg and Mr. James Richardson, was sent out in 1849 to prosecute discoveries in Northern Central Africa. Their travels and researches into the history and present state of the interior tribes were continued till 1855, and their results have recently been published by Dr. Barth. Dr. Overberg died in 1854, and was buried on the shores of Lake Tchad or Tsad. Mr. Richardson also fell a victim to the climate before the close of the expedition. Dr. Barth visited the countries of Bornou, Kanem, Man- dara, Bagirmi, and others previously explored by Denham and Clapperton, and carried his researches much farther, ^i ■'i'\ I,- w m I; ■I,.; 218 APPENDIX I. ill m 111 reaching the eighth degree of north latitude. His volumes contain much curious and minute information. The following extract from the preface gives a summary of his travels. " Extending over a tract of country of twenty-four de- grees from north to south, and twenty degrees from east to west, in the broadest part of the continent of Africa, my travels necessarily comprise subjects of great interest and diversity. " After having traversed vast deserts of the most bar- ren soil, and scenes of the most frightful desolation, I met with fertile lands irrigated by large navigable rivers, and extensive central lakes, ornamented with the finest timber, and prciucing various species of grain, rice, sesamum, ground-nuts in unlimited abundance, the sugar- cane, &c., together with cotton and indigo, the most valu- able commodities of trade. The whole of Central Africa, from Bagirmi to the East, as far as Timbuctu to the west (as will be seen in my narrative), abounds in these pro- ducts. The natives of these regions not only weave their own cotton, but dye their home-made shirts with their own indigo. The river, the far-famed Niger, which gives access to these regions by means of its eastern branch, the Benuwe, which I discovered, affords an uninterrupted navigable sheet of water for more than six hundred miles into the very heart of the country. Its western branch is obstructed by rapids at the distance of about three hun- dred and fifty miles from the coast; but even at that point it is probably not impassable in the present state of APPENDIX I. 219 i navigation, while higher up, the river opens an immense high-road for nearly one thousand miles into the very heart of Western Africa, so rich in every kind of produce. *'The same diversity of soil and produce which the regions traversed by me exhibit, is also observed with respect to man. Starting from Tripoli in the North, we proceed from the settlements of the Arab and the Berber, the poor remnants of the vast empires of the middle ages, into a country dotted with splendid ruins from the period of the Roman dominion, through the wild roving hordes of the Tawarek, to the Negro and the half-Negro tribes, and to the very border of the South African nations. In the regions of Central Africa there exists not one and the same stock, as in South Africa, but the greatest diversity of tribes, or rather nations prevails, with idioms entirely distinct." The results of Dr. Livingstone's last voyages of explora^ tion have greatly increased our knowledge of Southern and Central Africa, as will be readily seen by the readers of this volume, in which the condensation of these results has been given. Of course the chief objects which attract at first the attention of explorers are the broad geo- graphical features of the country, the course of its rivers, the mountain ranges, and all matters which come more particularly under the head of physical geography. The mineral deposits, or the agricultural advantages of a coun- try are, as a rule, discovered only after a more minute investigation of its natural conditions than it is possible for an explorer to make. The field of Africa has, how- iii fie 'lii i;"'l III I ,;) 220 APPENDIX I. ever, been opened, and the recent discoveries in South Africa of deposits of diamonds has attracted immigration such as the modem world has seen attracted to California and Australia by the discovery of gold deposits in these two countries. As in both of these cases, the attraction of a large population from the civilized portions of the world has brought together specialists of various kinds, and a wide spread and scientific examination of the terri- tory has led to the discovery of various other sources of wealth. In South Africa, near Cape Town, deposits of gold, silver, copper, lead, and coal, the most important min- eral deposit, since it affords the power absolutely neces- sary for our modem industry, have been found. Perhaps the most startling of these instances of modern discoveries is that of the diamond fields of South Africa. It is impossible to accui'ately estimate the number of dia- monds which have thus been thrown into the circula- tion of the world's wealth, but it is something enormous, and hitherto in the modern world's history unprece- denied. When diamonds were first found here, the land was free for any one to search over, but the news of their discov- ery led to the influx of such a large body of persons to engage in this work, that, as in California and Australia, the right of private property began soon to assert itself, and claims began immediately to rise in value, until a good one, thirty feet square, commands already $15,000. APPENDIX I. 221 Already about Kopje is gathered a population of alx)ut forty thousand people. The New Rush is eight hundred yards wide, with eight parallel roads running through it, along which the dirt from the excavations below is carted away. At first there was no organization of the labour, and no arrangement by which the private interests of those engaged in it should be prevented from becoming detrimental to the public welfare. In consequence, the private excavations have been carried on so far, or in some cases, farther, than either safety or a fair prospect for profit dictated, and without any regard for preserving the roads. In many cases, also, these roadways were left so narrow that there was hardly room for two carts to pass, and now they are really dangerous, having become as they are, narrow causeways, seventy or eighty feet high, and being unstayed and supported by any but the most temporary appliances. This place, New Rush, is the only one which is still considered as a profiitable spot for diamond digging. Other places, as Hebron, Phiel,Klipdrift and Du Toit's Pan, have been chiefly exhausted, and diamond digging there requires too much patience to suit such an adventurous class as generally engage in speculative labour of this kind. The gold fields are about three hundred miles from the banks of the Vaal, and the last town on the outskirts of civilization is Pretonia, about one hundred and fifty miles from Vaal. With the attention which has thus been M li ^r m t V: 222 APPENDIX 1. called to Africa, the next twenty years will most probably lead to such explorations as will not only give us a com- plete knowledge of its physical features, but also lead to an organized introduction of civilization into this country, and an orderly development of its resources throughjthe appliances of modern industry. APPENDIX II. THE NEW ANGLO-AMERICAN EXPEDITION TO AFRICA. (From the London Daily Telegraph, July 4, 1874.) WE are in a position this morning to announce that arrangements have been concluded between the proprietors of the Daily Telegraph and Mr. Bennett, pro- prietor of the New York Herald, under which an expedi- tion will at once be despatched to Africa with the object of investigating and reporting upon the haunts of the slave traders ; of pursuing to fulfilment the magnificent discoveries of the great explorer, Dr. Livingstone, and of completing, if possible, the remaining problems of Central African geography. This expedition has been undertaken by, and will be imder the sole command of, Mr. Henry M. Stanley, whose successful journey " in search of Living- stone," upon the suggestion and at the charge of the pro- prietor of the New York Herald, was the means of succouring the illustrious traveller, and secured to science the fruit of his researches, while it enabled our distin- guished countryman to prosecute his latest investigations. Mr. Stanley will, in a short time, leave England fully equipped with boats, arms, stores, and all the provisions uecessary for a thorough and protracted African expedi- ■1 I iiiti m 224 APPENDIX II. tion. Commissioned by the Daily Telegraph and New York Herald in concert, he will represent the two nations whose common interest in the regeneration of Africa was so well illustrated when the lost English explorer was re- discovered by the energetic American correspondent. In that memorable journey, Mr. Stanley displayed the best qualities of an African traveller ; and with no inconsider- able resources at his disposal to reinforce his own ccvmp^ete acquaintance with the conditions of African travel, it may be hoped that very important results will accrue from this undertaking, to the advantage of science, humanity, and civilization. We cannot, indeed, be mistaken in believing that the enterprise thus planned will be held by general opinion — not only here and in the United States, but throughout Europe — as one worthy to engage the efforts of modern journalism. The sphere of the press, as a minister to public interests and sentiments, is, of necessity, enlarging along with the widening range of those interests and sentiments, and while American liberality has well earned the right to share in reaping the fruits of Livingstone's work, the hunting-out of the African slave trade and the solution of the yet abiding mystery of the central portion of that continent are topics which obviously concern and attract every intelligent Englishman. To bring to light the wickedness of the traffic in human flesh is the best road towards its abolition ; and we cherish the hope that this joint enterprise may furnish valuable information to the Legislature and to the British Government, whose APPENDIX II. 225 credit is bound up with the final success of the movement set on foot by the treaty of Sir Bartle Frere. At present, as is only too well known, that treaty, concluded with the Sultan of Zanzibar, has not obtained the results expected. An infamous and lucrative traffic, but imperfectly re- vealed by the official communication recently communi- cated to Parliament, still thrives along the East African shores, and it will be part of the instructions of our joint commissioner to see with his own eyes, as far as possible, the methods, the haunts and the character of this nefarious trade, before advancing into the interior. This was assu- redly one of the duties bequeathed to us by the noble- minded Livingstone. Everybody knows that the burning desire to rid Africa of that curse, the slave driver, lay even nearer to the great explorer's heart than his ambition to unlock her hidden secrets and to fill up the vast mysteri- ous blank spaces of her map. For this he chiefly toilod — for this he sought to make his name weighty and his voice far heard — in order lihat, living or dying, it might be strong to urge England on to the completion of her histori- cal duty. In the sermon which Dean Stanley delivered over the newly-closed grave of this great man, the sub- joined words occurred: — "There arose in his noble breast as he wandered on among them, the passionate wish, e ^er mounting to a higher and yet higher pitcl ^ of burning indig- nation, and fierce determination to expose, and exposing to strike a fatal blow at that monster evil which by general testimony is *.he one prevailing cause of African misery and degradation — the European and Asiatic slave Is; , ll i ■« I 226 APPENDIX II. trade. He grappled with it vigorously, and it recognized in him its most formidable foe. In the struggle he perished, too soon, alas ! for him to know how nearly he had succeeded — not, we trust, too soon for us to secure that his success shall be accomplished, so that the work which in its commencement and continued inspiration was the brightest side of the name of Wilberforce shall, in its com- pletion, shed the chief glory on the name of Livingstone." It is one of the bequests, we say, of Livingstone to the English speaking peoples that they should let the light in upon this evil and extirpate it ; and, therefore, one stead- fast object recommended to Mr. Stanley — who, perhaps, more than any other man, has the right to " administer to Livingstone's testament " — will be to search out and reveal what this slave traffic really is in its " dark places." The second and scarcely less momentous bequest of the illustrious dead is as certainly the completion of his geo- graphical researches. This duty also stands intimately connected with the future regeneration of Africa ; indeed, the two undertakings belong naturally to each other, for when Africa shall once be delivered from the immemorial terror of the slavers, then her uprise must depend upon her natural resources and lines of internal communication. Livingstone always saw and felt how intimately his mis- sion of humanity and his scientific researches were linked together ; and the patient traveller who found rest at last in Ilala worked for the future of Africa as directly as the fearless pen which brought an EngUsh Plenipotentiary to Zanzibar and the faithful hand which told us the truth APPENDIX II. 227 about slavery. In the course of his vast wanderings, Livingstone wrought also a stupendous work for science : but ha felt it necessarily incomplete. The si^me eloquent disc'jurse already quoted contains the following passage : - -' The blank of unexplored regions which in every earlier map formed the heart of Africa is now disclosed to its, adorned with those magnificent forests, that chain of lakes, 'glittering* — to use the native expression — 'like stars in the desert * ; those falls, more splendid, we are told, even than Niagara, which no eye of civilized man had ever be- fore beheld, whore, above the far-resounding thunder of the cataj-art mid the flying comets of snow-white foam, and the vising columns of ever ascending spray, and the bright rainbows arching over the clouds, the simple na- tives had for centuries seen the emblem — the glorious emblem — of everlasting Deity — the unchangeable seated enthnmed above the changeable. And to Livingstone's untiring exertions, continued down to the very last eflforts of exhausted nature, we owe the gradual limitation of the basin within which mi.st at last be fonnd those hidden fountains that have lured on traveller after traveller, .and have hitherto l-^iu/d them all." Dean Stanley is quite right ; the secret of the Nile — thflt is to say the key to the commercial road of Central Africa — has yet to be found. Burton and Speke, Grant and Baker, and even Livingstone himself have, with all their splendid dis- coveries, still left the ancient mystery unrevealed ; it has ever moie dt;9rly receded as each of them approached it, the ultimate pv v?* jbiHtieM always becoming grander with it i 1 II ■ip 1 4 V ■ '• 228 APPENDIX II. each disappointment. Thus it may yet prove that the far-off Lake Bangweolo, near whose shore the great ex- plorer died, sends its waters to the wonderful Nile. How that would enhance the pathos and the glory of his death, if it should turn out that Providence gave him his sum- mons when his labour of love and duty were so much more thorouo-hly consummated than he knew ! He was wont to say in all his diflSculties and doubts, *' It will all come right at last." In the belief that it will come right we are going to send the wh i '^ T^n.n who was with him last, and whom he has blessed called *' as good as a son to me," upon the track of his tailing footsteps to see if he can help Africa and geography, and finish Living- stone's task. At this moment, in truth, the problem of Central African geography has become more fascinating, more absorbing, more important than ever before. Livingstone has hunted this sphinx of science into a kind of corner, and six degrees of longitude westward of Lake Tanganyika now contain the solution upon which the future of Africa depends. Five magnificent lakes — the smallest of them, probably, as big as Michigan — and a long, superb, connecting lacus- trine river, threading these lakes from the vast Usango ' plateau south of Tanganyika to the inland seas of Bang- weolo, Moero, Kamolondo and the " Unknown Water"— have been made known to us by the same adventurous journey of rescue which prolonged the life of Livingstone. These glorious fresh-water seas, with the lordly river which strings them together, and with that other broad APPENDIX II. 229 ihat the rreat ex- }. How lis death, his sum- so much He was it will all jme right with him good as a eps to see }h Living- pal African absorbing, las hunted jix degrees (W contain I depends, robably, as ing lacus- Lst Usango of Bang- Water"- venturous vingstone. dly river her broad s stream which issues from'^Lake Lincoln and joins the Lualaba — do they run northward to the Nyanzas and the Nile, or westward to the Congo ? Does Tanganyika find somQ western outlet whereby to add her waves to them, or are Tanganyika and Nyanza one ; or else by what strange reason do her deep and mountain-shadowed waters remain so sweet and fresh ? These are not merely pro- blems of the geographer's study — questions to while away an evening of the Royal Geographical Society. Upon the right answer to them depends the proper road into the heart of Africa — the destined direction of that commerce which will some day rescue her and give her a place among the [civilized continents. And when we add to these primary inquiries the deeply interesting secondary queries about the Katanga copper mines, those mysterious " Four Fountains," and the underground habitations near Moero, it will be seen at what an intensely interesting stage of African discovery the expedition of the New York Herald and of the Daily Telegraph sets forth. It is true that the field of exploration is not quite at this moment deserted. In March, 1873, Lieutenant Cameron was commissioned by Sir Bartle Frere, on behalf of the Royal Geographical Society, to take supplies and means to Livingstone, who was at that time, though none knew it, near to die at Ilala. Accompanied by Messrs. Dillon and Murphy, this expedition started, but only to encounter a run of ill luek and difficulties which brought its resourses so low that at Unyanyembe it was already nearly bankrupt. To proceed at all Lieutenant Cameron 15 I ii iiJI 230 APPENDIX II. had to draw largely upon the Royal Geographical Society and to buy his clothes at a ruinous price ; and when, with great courage and perseverance, he was at last going for- ward, the sad news came to him that the doctor was dead. Of his two companions Dr. Dillon died overwrought by suffering, and Mr. Murphy resigned and came back to Zanzibar. Cameron went forward to fetch the papers and effects of Livingstone left at Ujiji, and reached that place in February of the present year. But he is, although not aware of it, no longer now the emissary of the society. That body had never expected to incur the heavy losses of the upward march ; aiid although its hesitation to honour Lieutenant Cameron's drafts, felt and sustained at first, was very properly surmounted in the end; still with many other objects to follow, and the papers of Living- stone secured, it eventually resolved not to extend the journey of Lieutenant Cameron or incur any further ex- pense. Letters to this effect have gone after him, which reached Unyanyembe in June and Ujiji in July, so that ijliile we write the communication is perhaps being delivered to this gallant officer which acquaints him with the hard truth that he is no longer in the service of the society. He has faced a hundred obstacles with the highest courage, and deserved, we cannot help thinking a somewhat stouter support ; and it will certainly be one of the instructions of our commissioner, as it would obviously accord w^'li his own inclination, to be of use to the brave young explorer if opportunity should offer. As to the chance of Cameron's solving the trans-Tanganyika APPENDIX IT. 231 problem, it is, we fear, not strong. He was to boat on the lake for two months, and to make an excursion into Man- yema, say down to May or June. Then, if he waited at Ujiji for letters, it would only be to receive that little cheering one from Saville Row, practically recalling him, while if he went forward without any news, his recourses probably, would not carry him far unless he met with much better fortune than in the first part of his trip. Meantime, his friends at home have collected £600, which will suffice to pay for his return journey from Lake Tan- ganyika to Zanzibar, and notice of this has been trans- mitted to the coast. If he can, by any stroke of pluck or luck, find the way northward to Gordon, he will have solved one problem of African geography, and shown him- self by a fresh proof, which was not needed, what all know him to be — a brave man ; but it is extremely im- probable that he has means for any such journey, and much more likely that, not possessing them, and receiving the letter of dismissal, he^will have turned homeward by next Christmas, so^that our expedition may perhaps have the pleasure of rendering service to him — possibly, indeed, very timely service. Meanwhile, the letters received from Cameron at Ujiji, render the great problem of the Nile and the lakes more fascinating than ever. His observations show that Speke was quite wrong in putting Tanganyika only 1,844' feet above the sea level. Livingstone was right ; it is about 2,800 feet ; and, seeing that the same elevation, or nearly so, is given for the Albert Nyanza — the diflerence between 232 APPENDIX ITA Cameron's aiul Baker's estimate for the respective lakes is only twenty feet — the old possibility returns, that Tan- ganyika and Nyanza may, after all, be one. This was the report heard by Sir Samuel Baker, at Faloro, and tele- graphed first to these colunms ; and if it were only true — if even the Lualaba and the southern lakes ran into the Nyanza — then Livingstone, after all, did find the real and ultimate fountains of the River of Egypt, and you may sail a boat, with certain portages, from Alexandria to the uplands of Usango, in the twelfth degree of lati- tude, south of the Equator. And this would mean that Africa, at the moment of her delivery from the slave hun- ters, had fair, and beautiful, and healthy highways, all ready and open to the north and to the east. If, on the contrary, the great inland seas and rivers of Manyema go westward to the Congo, it would still be deeply interest- ing and important to ascertain the fact. In every respect, for every reason, from every point of view, the sad conti- nent seems to wait for the reading of this riddle. Then comes her long-deferred time of light and life ! Sir Sam- uel Baker, delivering recently the Rede lecture at Cam- bridge, said : " She will awake when the first steam launch is seen upon the Albert Nyanza," and he added, that no- where in the world does scenery exist more beautiful, or soilmore fertile, or climate more healthy to the temperate and strong, than those vast and diversified highlands of Central Africa which inclose these glorious, sparkling seas of sweet water, and feed the mighty rivers whose course is so far winding that to this day no man has yet traversed them from mouth to fountain. APPENDIX II. 233 lakes is it Tan- was the ad tele- f true — into the the real and you 3xandria 5 of lati- ean that ave hun- ways, all [f, on the lyema go interest- respect, ,d conti- Then |Sir Sam- at Cam- launch that no- itiful, or jmperate ilands of :ling seas ie course iraversed In full, and we hope, well-justified confidence, then, that our joint expedition will have the good wishes t)f all men, — we are about to send it forth. Africa is vast, doubtful and dangerous, and the best preparations cannot insure success, nor can the stoutest manhood command it. But whatever good equipment and sufficient resources can do worthily to continue Livingstone's work will not be want- ing, and the commissioner employed will be a man who loves the great traveller's memory, who rejoices to follow in his footsteps, and who has displayed those personal qualities which can best overcome the hundred perils of an explorer. It was when Sir Roderick Murchison reluc- tantly announced, in 1871, that the Royal Geographical Society had no further intention of sending after Living- stone, that the New York Herald despatched Mr. Stanley, with the result of rescuing the good missionary, sustain- ing him in his last journey, and securing for his country, and for science, the rich fruits of his research. The society must not be blamed though another traveller is isolated, and an African exploratioi^ again suspended ; its means are not inexhaustible, and it has done much and well for science. But then, the work of Livingstone, in its two aspects of humanity and discovery, is not a thing that must or can be dropped ; and therefore, it is that, in this friendly alliance of resource and purpose, the proprietors of the two journals concerned have concluded their pre- sent arrangements. THE END. 1 • lif I B." j: «,: . ! li ^ EVERYBODY'S OWN PHYSICIAN; OB. HOW TO ACQUIRE AND PRESERVE HEALTU. ILLUSTRATED WITH ABOUT 250 FINELY EXECUTED WOOD-CUTS, Many of which are Engraved from Models in the Author's Private Cahiv , and correctly represent nearly all of the Organs of the Body, in Health and Disease. BY 0. W. GLEASON, M.D., PROFBSSOft OP THK INSTITUTB8 OF MHDICINIl AND 80R0BRT, EDITOR OP TOT PMrSIOIiOOIST, AUTHOR OF THK LAW8 OF LIFB, AND ART OP PRKSBRVINO HKAIiTH, FOFULAR IiHOIURBR ON BAKITARV HCIKNOB, BfC., FUILADBIiPHIA. II * I' TORONTO: HAOLEAB AND CO., PUBLISHEES. 1874. One la/rge Odawo Volume, Price $3. iH EVERYBODY? OWN PHYSICIAN. p H O O t'c EVERYBODY'S OWN PHYSICIAN. p o CM O 111 B o > a •«e .1 D H O I 9 Mi EVERYEODYS OWN PHYSICIAN. UlSfASES OF THE KYiC. RIOHT AND WBONO POBTUBES. everybody's owi!^ physician. ii i i r.is. EVERYBODY S OWN PHYSICIAN. TUB UUAIN ANU NEUVES. EVERYBODY S OWN PHYSICIAN. 'I ! ! I ii iir DI8KA8E8 OF THE EAR. THE PHYSICAL LIFE OF WOMAN: ^bfaict to t^t MAIDEN, WIFE, AND MOTHER. — ^BT — GEO. H. NAPHEYS, A.M., M.D. Member of Philadelphia Cownty Medical Society ; Corresponding Member of the Oynoecological Society of Boston ; Author of ** Compendium of Modern Therapeutics, "RIGE. iOOKB. interest ip lod to aovam STXOIPSIS OF THE BOOK. It treats in detail the three peculiar phases of woman's life, vis., maidenhood, matrimony and maternity. Under the first head, the subject of puberty, its dangers and hygiene, and of love, are discussed from a medical stand-point. Valuable ad- vice is given on the marriage of cousins, on the effects of mar- riage on woman and man, on "choosing a husband," on " ^e engagement," on the right time of the year to raarry, on the wedding tour, and on many kindred topics. The phys- iology of the marriage relation is then considered. In the second part of the book, <r. Napheys, in his wise " advice to maiden, wife, and. mother," passes in review the cardinal facts respecting woman's physical life. Hie book is written in a very clear and simple style, so that no one can misimderstand it, while there is nothing to disturb or o^end the most sensitive. A judicious mother would do her maturing daughters great service by tirst carefully reading this volume herself, and then have them read it under her guidance. OPINION OF MRS. R. B. QLEASON, M.D. Elmira, N.Y., Sept. 1869. The advanced sheets of "The Physical Life of Wv^man" li*ve been read with much interest. In this book Dr. Naphoys fcf s well met a real need of the age. There are many things i: tcident to woman's physical organisation which she needs to know, and concerning which she still does not want to ask a physician, and may not have one at hand when she most desires the information. This book can be easily road and perfectly understood by those not familiar with medical terms. All matters of delicacy are treated with freedom, and still with a purity of thought and expression which is above criticism. For many years we have been often asked for just such a book, and shall gladly commend it to the many wives and mothers who want for themselves >und grown-up daughters such a book of helps and hints for home life. MRS. R. B. GLEASON. OPINION OF DR. R. SHELTON MACKENZIE. Fhiladblphia, Oct., 1869. Believing that such a work as Dr. Napheys' " Physical Life a Woman." giving a great deal of valuable information, explicitly and delicately, is likely to be of very essential importance to the fair sex, I cannot hesitate to express my favourable opinion of its object and execution. PHTSIOAL Lira or WOKAH. FBOM THE METHODIST HOME JOUHNAL, DEC. 4, 1869. Hitherto, the subjects so honestly and so skillfully treated in this volume, have, to a very great extent, been ruled out oi the realm oI* popular knowledge, and inlormation of this class sought only in a clandestine manner. 'I'he people have suf- fered by deplorable ignorance on those topics, which should be as familiar to us as the alpnabet. Dr. Najiheys, by his scientific handling of the physiological points which relate to health, training, and development, has rendered a great service to the world. ThiS; the press and public men have not been slow to :Acknowledge. This book has gained unquallified praise, and well deserves it. i ? FROM THE INDEPENDENT, NEW YORK, NOV. 11, 1869. It required a bn»v« but sensitively pure man to provide for the want which existed for some reliable medical msti ac- tions upon points which every woman and every married man ought to ^ow, and few do. Dr. Napheys we do not know personally. But his book in at once brave and pure. It is written in such a spirit that she who really desires to learn the truths of which she cannot with justice to herself or others be ignorant, may do so without being shocked ; while he who hopes to stimulate a vicious iTuagination by its perusal will turn from its pages disappointed away. FROM THE PHILADELPHIA EVENING TELEGRAPH, OCT. 6, 1869. This is a work by a physician of reputation on the hygiene of woman, designeid for popular use, and introducing a variety of topics not generally discussed outside of regular scientific medical works. Dr. Napheys writes with dignity and earnest- ness, and tliereis not a chapter in his book that may not be read by peisons of both sexes. Of course, such a work as this is intended for men and women of mature years, and it is not suitable to be left lying about for the gratification of ide curi- osity. The author has been careful to write nothing that can possibly give ofience, and he conveys much sound instruction that, if heeded by those to whom it is particularly addresBed| wUl save much suffering. I PH7SI0AL Lm OF WOMAX. FROM THE PRESBYTERIAN OF PHILADELPIL'Ji, DEC. 4, 1869. A book which treats wisely and delicately of very important subjects, and subjects which ought to be treated by competem nands, instead of being left to quacks and the venders of nos- trums. Dr. Napheys is evidently a conscientious and intelli- gent physician, and his counsels are such as may be put in the hands of all persons needing such counsels. We commend it for its judicious exposition of the laws of nature. FROM REV. HENBY CLAY TRUMBULL, Secretary of New England Department of Mssions oflhc American Sunday-school Tlnvn. HunroRDy Ct., Oct., 1869. Gbo. H. Naphbys, M.D. — My Dear Sir: Understanding fi>om my long acquaintance -^ith you, your thoroughness of mental culture, your delicacy of sentiment, and your sound good sense, I was prepared to approve heartily the tone and style of your new work — " The Physical Life of Woman " — when its advance sheets were first placed in my hands. A close examination of it convinces me that it is a book which can be read by every woman to her instruction and advantage. Its manner is unexceptionable. Its style is remarkably simple. Its substance evidencea vnur professional knowledge and your extensive study. I beiinvi« it needs only to be brought to notice to commend itseit widely. I think you have done an excellent work in its preparation. Sincerely your friend, H. CLAY TRUMBULL. FROM THE NEW YORK CHRISTIAN CJNION, JAN. 8, 1870. Society owes a debt of gratitude to this brave and scientific physician for the unexceptional way in which he has performed a work that has, up to the publication of this book, been a paramount need, not to be satisfied anywhere in the English language. If the volume contained only tlie chapter on the in- fluence of the mother's mind upon her unborn child, we would "ecommend its purchase by every family in the land. THE TRANSMISSION OF LIFE. :a, portant apetens of nos- intelli- .t in the mend it American ,, 1869. laintance delicacy spared to rk— "The were iirst |g a book iction and style is ofessionai eeds only I think CBULL. iN, Boientifio )erformed been a English Ion the in- Iwe would COUNSELS ON TEB Nature and Hygiene of the Masculine Fuiiction BY DR. GEORGE H. NAPHEYS, Author of " Tht Physical Life of Woman,^* " Compendium of Modem Therapeutics" " Letters from Europe^" etc. One Volume Crotvn Octavo, Best ESniplisli Oloth, Oilt Saok aa&d ^ide Stamps. TESTIMONIAL-S. The publishers take pleasure in presenting the following testimonials to the practical value and the moral tone of this work * REV. JOHN TODD, D.D., JutJurr of " The Students Manual^" " Index Rerum," etc. " Dr. Napheys : I am surprised at th« extent and accuracy of your reading ; the judiciousness <^* ^^^r positions and re- sults ; the clear, unequivocal, and yet delicate and appropri- ate language used ; and the amount of valuable information conveyed. It is comparatively a new, but very important field, and you have done well. The book cannot fail, 1 think, to do good — great good — if rightly heeded." BISHOP LEVI SCOTT, D.D., Meihodist Episcopal Church. '"'T pttrtake largely of the fikvourable opinion of Dr. Todd, and wish your work gr^at succesB." TRAKSMIBSION OV LIM. REV. CYRUS NUTT, D.D., President of Indiana State University. I know of no work recently issued irom the press, calculated to do so much good as "The Transmission of Life." It con- tains information of the utmost importance to the individual and the race, and should have a wide circulation. PROF. J. ORDRONAUX, LL.D., M.D., Drqf, of Phfsiology, Pathology^rtd Medical Jurisprudencef Uolumbian College, JFashington, D. C. It was due to the cause of science, no less than morality, that some competent and honourable physician should reclaim this subject from the slough of pollution in which it has been dragged. Your work bears the impress of religious and aoientifio truth. PHILADELPHIA MEDICAL AND SURGICAL REPORTER. This book is intended to meet a want which, during the last year, has been urgently expressed by several medical and literary journals in this country and England, namely, to place before the public, in popular yet irreprofichable language, what information regarding the hygiene, nature, uses, and abuses of the procreative function in the male is necessary to protect the individual from the evil consequences ot his own folly or ignorance. It will readily be conceived that to discuss such topics clearly, positively, and with benefit to the lay reader, requires no ordinary tact ; and we must say that the author has succeeded beyond all our expectations. The work is characterised throughout by sound scientific views, and in- dicates extensive and careful reading. AMERICAN LITERARY GAZETTE. . PmLADBLPHiA, March 15, 1871. Those who are acquainted with the author's "Physical Life or Woman" will find this new booK fully equal to that very popular and extraordinarily successful work, to which it may be said to form a sequel, being addressed to the other sex. NEW YORK INDEPENDENT. March 30, 1871. The book treats of an important and diflScult subject with perfeot delicacy of thought and expression, and its counsels are eminently sound and judicious. It is, we believe, calcula- •d to do great good. { TRANBHUUSIOM OF hOU. iulated [t con- ividual lence, aorality» reclaim las been ous and ?OBTER. [iring the dical and r, to place language. uses, and cessary to )t his own to discuss p the lay ,y that the The work rs, and in- 3, 1811- kysical Lifo h that very Rch it may lier sex. lubjeot with Its counsels [ye, calcular ANDREW D. WHITE, LL.D., President of Gomell University. Your thoughtful and delicate presentation of the subject seems to me to merit great praise. That your dbcussion wilj do much good I firmly believe. REV. W. T. STOTT, Acting President of Franklin College^ Indiana. I know no author who has succeeded so well in combining information with safe advice. PROF. JOHN S. HART, LL.D., Trenton, N.J. I have been impressed with the care and discretion shown in the treatment of a very difficult subject. PROF. HARVEY L. BYRD, M.D., Prof, of Obsterics in the Medical Department of Washington University, Baltimore, Md. You have done your work well. I am one of those who believe the lay members of every intelligent community should be educated in a general knowledge of the Laws of life- Hence I endorse your efforts in this direction. JOHN H. GRISCOM, M.D., Neyj York Gity, The niunerous and important subjects have been nowhere, to my knowledge, as intelligently and effectively treated. The sanitary advice, so well inculcated, should be learned by every individual, especially by parents for the safety of their children. THE COLLEGE COURANT. New Haven, Ct., April 8, 1871. This work ought to be in every one's library, in every family throughout the country. No young man should be without a copy of it. It has tio equal. THE CHRISTIAN SECRETARY. Hartford, March 16, 1871. Dr. Napheys has treated this delicate topic with excellent discretion, and his book comep> highly recommended by some of the best and wisest men i^^mong us. Its perusal may save thousands of persor « from untold evils. TRANSMISSION >>r tlfl. REV. HORACE BUSHI^ELL, D.D., •Hartford, Connectmit. " I see it to be a work immensely wanted, and think it will do much good. The subject, as related to family life, and the condition of posterity, is a really awful one, and ought to b just as much more awful to young men, as it more deeply concerns their welfare. Give ic as great a circulation as you can." >> REV. C. P. SHELDON, D.D., President of the N. T. Baptist Convention, Potior of the Fifth Baptist Church, Troy, N. T, '' The subjects of which it treats are of great importance ; and I am much pleased with the careful, candid, and able manner in which Dr. Napheys discusses them. The public need just such information, and in this work it is so imparted, that it cannot but be healthful and salutary. In moral and' religious tone it is unexceptionable. I earnestly recommend its publi- cation and circulation." PROF. NOAH PORTER, D.D^ YaU College. Dr. Geo. H. Naphbts — Dear Sir : I thank you for a copy of your work on " The Transmission of Lifa." There is in it much valuable informa- tion, carefully considered and industriously collected. The topics — of greatest delicacy — are treated with all possible re- finement, while the much needed warnings concerning the ofiiences against nature, which are practised in ignorance by many, and with shamelessness by others, are faithfully ad- ministered." DR. S. AUSTIN ALLIBONB, Author of " The Dictionary of Authors." *'The subjects discussed are of great importance ; the liter- ary style is excellent — terse, vigorous, and perspicuous ; the philanthropic zeal evinced is highly creditable to your heart ; and the moral and religious spirit of the work is such as to give me a profound respect for the writer. The tendency of the book is good, and good only. It makes vice abhorrent and virtue cheaply purchased by all the wholesome restraints which it imposes." TBAMUOBSIOM OV LUV. HON. T. W. BICKNELL, Viee-I\mdent Rhode Island InsHtute oflrutmetion. I have read << The Transmission of Life." by Dr. Napheys, and find the volume filled with truths whicn every man should know, understand, and daily practise. The author exhibits knowledge, wide reading, candour, and good sense. I can but wish for this work an immediate and wide circulation among the young men of our State, for by its teachings the causes of education, religion, and the purest morality will be advanced. A few friends who have read the book concur heartily with this opinion. THOS. W. PERRY, M.D., Fbovidhnqb, B. I. I have read with great pleasure <]liXPBOITI0N IN 1864, BiABiNO UPON mnsn oooubbino m aor cmlPtivitt. ?/i^- '^r\ti TORONTO: PUBLISHED BY MAOLBAR A 00., 1872. CERTIFICATE OF INDIAN CHIEFS. :y IN 1864, Personally appeared before me, a Notary Pnblic for the District of Columbia, Mrs. Fanny Kelly, who is at this time a citizen of the State of Kansas, and being duly sworn, deposes and says : That in the year 1864, she started from Geneva, Allen County, Kansas, for the purpose of settling -wit-h her hus- band and fauiily in Montana, and fcr this purpose she with her husband took all the goods and chattels they had, which are enumerated below, with amount and value. She further says she is now a widow and has a family to support. But she was for many months a prisoner, and taken cap- tive by a band of the Sioux Indians, at the time at war with the white people, and with the United States, as follows : — On the 12th day of July, 18G4, while on the usually travel- led road acroHs tiie plains, and west of Fort Laramie, she, with her husband and family, mth several other persons, were attacked by these IndianH, and fi>e of the party were killed, while she was taken captive. That the Indians took or destff^yed all they iiad. She was a captive for five months, suffered hardshipfc ctid taunts, ond was finally de- livered to the military autaorities of the United Stat-es in Dakota, at Fort Sully. That the following is a statement of their goods and effects, including stock, as near as she can remember. Df whole account was made out and placed, aa shj is informed, til the hands of Dr. Burleigh, late delegate i'rom Dakota, but •^^^mmmmmmmm 11 .i ft- J .!->• which she can not find at this time. The amount and the leading itoms she knows to be as follows : i|t H( * Nc 4e * Fanny Kelly. Subscribed and swon to before me, this 24th day t)f February, A.D. 1870. Jas. H. McKenney, Notary Public, Washington County, D. C. City of Washington, ) District of Columbia, > June 9th, 1870. j We, the undersigned, chiefs and head men of the Dakota or Sioux Indians, do hereby acknowledge and certify to the facts set forth in the foregoing affidavit of Mrs. Fanny Kelly, as to her captivity and to the destruction of her property by members of our nation, ' Wo acknowledge the justness of her claim against us for the loss of her goods, and desire that the same may be paid her out of any moneys now due our nation, or that may become due us by annuity or by any appropriation made by Congress ; and we would t espectfully request that the amount a3 set forth in the foregoing bill be paid to Mrs. Fanny Kelly by the Department, out of any funds that may now or hereafter belong to us. Spotted x Tail, Chief of Brule Sioux. SwiFr X Bear, Chief of Brule Sioux. Fast x Bear, Warrior, Brule Sioux. Yellow x Hair, . Wftrrior, Brule Siouz« id the illustrations" FROM* FANNY KELLY." ;lly. day t>f ic. J, D. C. Dakota ■y to the y Kelly, perty by Btness of id desire now due ,r by any pectfuUy ig bill be It of any mx. Vix. mx. c n > ILLUSTRATIONS FROM "FANNY KELLY." !,!• JDMPIN'a BGAH PIIOMISINO BY TUB MOON, TO OARRT MY liBTTHH TO THB WHITB CIIIBF AT KORT SILLY, ILLUSTRATIONS FROM "FANNY KELLT. i -1 !»■ SO SB I*- H 99 ill 1; llTB O ^^f^ mmsmmmmmn ILLUSTRATIONS FROM 'FANNY KELLY. m rsD cbocD, tbm oRAmii Htoux otnar. ILLUSTRATIONS FROM "FANNY KELLY." H M B3 •r, > s n ILLUSTRATIONS FROM "FANNY KELLY." Wl n H^^ H|;: ml HH m id a a: a H o u ILLUSTllATIONS FROM "FANNY KFLLY. a! g a y. o u ••i a: u M > O ILLUSTRATIONS FROM " FANNY|/KELLY." E2 o 7. O 3 '6 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM " FANNY KELLY." n K "9 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 141 m m m |||||Z2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 16. -• 6" — ► Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 072-4:03 a /#0 i/l .^jxi.'^ ' :, .^ ILLUSTRATIONS FROM "FANNY KELLY." § o 3 5 M u ILLUSTRATIONS FROM "FANNY KEILY." (6 P O o 2 5^ 1 o ROUGHING IT IN THE BUSH ; FOREST LIFE IN CANADA A. NEW Ain> BBTISBD EDITION, WITH AK IKTBODUOTOBT OHAPTBB, nr WHICH OAKADA OW THE PKESBNT IS OONTBASTSO WITH CANADA OV FO&TT TSASS AOO. SUSANNA MOODIE. x *'The poor exiles of wealthy and oyer-populouB natiani hare generally oeen the first founders of mighty empires. Necessity and industry produc- ing greater results than rank and affluence, in the oivilisation of barbarous countrilM."— ^{acfawMd. OAWADXAK XDXTIOV. Wtvtnmt MaOLBAB M CO., PUBLJ81IXR3, 1872. "ROUGHING IT IN THE BUSH." I^A^^^rfVMI " Faithful an Mm woundi of a friend, but the klwoe of an enemy are deeeitfoL** luc- In bringing out the first Canadian edition of "Roughino it in thb Bdsh," the Publinhers need say but little. The work laas had an immense sale, both in England and the United States ; yet, until now, our own country, of all others the most interested, has been denied the honour of its publication. In her characteristically graphic introduction to this edition the venerable authoress paints a glowing picture of "Canada, past and present." Imagine another Kip Van Winkle waking up from a forty years' nap — after reading "Roughing it in the Bush" — carried mid-air from the storm-lashed Atlantic to the golden shores of the Pacific, say in a baloon, reading the Census of 1871, and beholding our young giant empire, like Sampson of old, rending the swaddling bands, the wyths and cords of adolescence ■ extending with o£« hand the olive-branch and with the other the i«mucopia to a united people, the freest, happiest, best governed, and most virtuous community, owning the largest domain on this continent ; a people who act out in fact, what elsewhere has been treated as a fiction by its authors, that all men " are free and equal ;" would not the ideal Dutchman of Irving, exclaim, " verily* Truth is stranger than Fiction." In presenting for the first time Mrs. Moodie's greatest wovk in its own native dress, the Publishers hope they know better than, at this late day, to attempt to praise the productions of a Stbiokland or a Moodh, their record in Literature, Civilization, Peace and War, is known and read of aU ; but the fact that a great, good man, bearing one of the above names has passed to his reward, may iustify in this connection the assertion that a better t;^ of the high-minded, kind and generous hearted, thorough-bred Christian fentleman never trod Canadian soil, than the late lamented Colonel J. W. >unbar Moodie. This Canadian edition of ** Roughing it in the Bush," ii oomplete in one thick volume, over 500 pages* Fiuited on fine English paper, and embel- lished with appropriate illustrations. Bound in the best English doth, i»ioe tL7C. LMther; 92.26. Bold by Bubsoription only. MACLfiAR A €Om HEIIEGE OFMflflY AND DEFENCE OF EMISKILLEN ; A Nftrrative of the Great and Leading Events which trans pired in Ireland during that Momentous Feriod in oui- National History, BY THE REV. JOHN GRAHAM. RECTOBorHEOILLIGAN, DI(KDE8E of DERBY [formerly CUBi TE of LIFFORD} First Published in Londonderry in 1823. To which is added a most Eloquent Account of the BATTLES OF THE B07NE AUGHRIli:. Wxt S^kp m& (Si^itvMm tit ^mtxkk BY LORD MAOAULAY. WITH A BRIEF INTRODUCTION By the Rev. W. M. PUNSHON, M.A. One Vohime, oetavOf 312 pages, strong cloiA boards, Jine thickpaper, ana new type. Price •1.50— IPost Free on Receipt of Price. Mi.CLEAR & CO., Publishers, TORONTO, Agents wanted Wvtrywhere far this €md other Books, ▲GBMIB WAMTBD BYBBTWEHBE FOS TBIS AVd OTHBR BOOU. . ' Should these paceB come into the hands of any one who may ce no Interest in the book described, the Publishers will esteem It a favour to have them handed to some one who may desire them. TORONTO. 1872 WSfB TMOISAMD A TME AND M@W I M^BM IT -IN- FIVEYEARniMUTARTINGWITHOUTCMAL, -BY- EDWARD MITCHELL. A True Story, which may be repeated by thou- sands in our own country. JPHce 2& Ct8.—Po8t Free k